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TUIi 
 
 LIFE AND ADVENTURES OF AUDUBON. 
 
IX)NIIO:.-; I'lllKIKb IIV WILLIAM CLOWKS AM> SON.S MAMtOlID SIRF.KI 
 AND < I.AniKG lliO.>S. 
 
JOHN .1. AUDUBON. 
 
 London : Scimpson Lov, Sou, and Marsloii, Ludgatc Hill. 
 
':<rtc inii. 
 
OH 
 
 AuDun 
 
 SAM 
 
THE 
 
 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 
 
 or 
 
 OHN JAMES AUDUBON, 
 
 THE SATURALIST, 
 KDITED, FROM MATKUi.vl.S SUPI'I.IKD HY HIS WUOW, 
 
 BY EOBERT BUCHANAN. 
 
 SECOM) EDITION. 
 
 AUDUnoN AT OiiKES Bank, Liviiiroot, (I'rum a iliauiiig bi/ himself.) ■''cpt. !S26. 
 
 LONDON : 
 SAMPSON LOW, SON, & MARSTON, 
 
 CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET. 
 18G». 
 
 [7*e nijht of Translalt'm »'« retfrved.] 
 
IIn the ( 
 
 Ihands a 
 
 pared bj 
 
 IsistiDg < 
 
 jnaturalis 
 
 I inordina 
 
 i tion I'or 
 
 which t 
 
 say thn 
 
 therefor 
 
 had to 
 
 conned 
 
 result 
 
 origina 
 
 interest 
 
 fidelity 
 
 I have 
 
EDITOR'S PREFACE. 
 
 [n the autumn of 1867, the present publishers placed in my 
 jhands a large manuscript called the " Life of Audubon," pre- 
 pared by a friend of Mrs. Audubon's, in New York, chiefly con- 
 sisting of extracts from the diary of the great American 
 naturalist. It needed careful revision, and was, moreover, 
 inordinately long. While I cannot fail expressing my admira- 
 tion for the affectionate spirit and intelligent sympathy with 
 which the friendly editor discharged his task, I am bound to 
 say that his literary experience was limited. My business, 
 therefore, has been sub-editorial rather than editorial. I have 
 had to cut down what was prolix and unnecessary, and to 
 connect the whole in some sort of a running narrative, — and the 
 result is a volume equal in bulk to about one-fifth of the 
 original manuscript. I believe I have omitted nothing of real 
 interest, but I am of course not responsible in any way for the 
 fidelity of what is given. The episodes, wherever they occur, 
 I have given pretty much in full, as being not only much better 
 
VI 
 
 EDITOR'S PREFACE. 
 
 m. 
 
 composed than the diary, but fuller of those associations on 
 which Audubon rests his fame. 
 
 In a letter recently received from Mrs. Audubon, and written 
 after looking over a few of the first sheets, I am called to 
 account for some remarks of my own. It is the excellent lady's 
 belief that because I am " a Scotchman," I underrate her 
 husband and overrate Wilson. I am credited with an " inimical 
 feeling towards Mr. Audubon, whose sentiments of gratitude and 
 his expressions of them are beautiful towards all his friends ;" 
 and while quite agreeing in that opinion, I cannot help retaining 
 my doubt whether the publication of these " expressions " would 
 gratify the public. Then, again, I have called Audubon vain, 
 and perhaps a little selfish, and I can perfectly understand how 
 hard these words may seem to the gentle hetirt of a loving wife. 
 Yet they are nevertheless true, and are quite consistent with 
 the fact that I admire Audubon hugely, think him a grand and 
 large-hearted man, and have the greatest possible desire to see 
 him understood by the puolic. 
 
 But in order to get him understood one must put afde all 
 domestic partiality. Call Audubon vain, call him in some 
 things selfish, call him flighty, and inconsequential in his 
 worldly conduct, — all these qualities are palpable in every page 
 of the diary. He was handsome, and he knew it ; he was 
 elegant, and he prided himself upon it. He was generous in 
 most things, l)ut he did not love his rivals. He prattled about 
 himself like an infant, gloried in his long hair, admired the fine 
 curve of his nose, thought " blood " a great thing, and reverenced 
 the great. Well, happy is the man who has no greater errors 
 than these. 
 
 Audubon was a man of genius, with the courage of a lion and 
 the simjjlicity of a chiM. One scarcely knows which to admire 
 most — the mighty determination which enabled him to carry 
 
EDITOR'S PREFACK. 
 
 vn 
 
 those associations 
 
 lout his great work in the face of difficulties so huge, or the 
 
 I gentle and guileless sweetness with which he throughout shared 
 
 [his thought? -^nd aspirations with his wife and children. He was 
 
 niore like a ciiild at the mother's knee, than a husband at the 
 
 jhearth — so free was the prattle, so thorough the confidence. 
 
 Mrs. Audubon appears to have been a wife in every respect 
 
 worthy of such a man; willing to sacrifice her personal comfort 
 
 at any moment for the furtherance of his great schemes ; ever 
 
 ready with kiss and counsel when such were most needed ; never 
 
 failing for a moment in her faith that Audubon was destined to 
 
 I be one of tlic groat workers of the earth. 
 
 The man's heart was restless ; otherwise he would never have 
 I achieve'! so much. He must wander, he must vagabondize, he 
 I must acquire ; he was never quite easy at the hearth. His love 
 for nature was pa&sionate indeed, pursuing him in all regions, 
 I burning in him to the last. Among the most touching things in 
 the diary, are the brief exclamations of joy when something in 
 the strange city — a flock of wild ducks overhead in London, a 
 gathering of pigeons on the trees of Paris — reminds him of the 
 wild life of woud and plain. He was boy-like to the last, 
 glorying most when out of doors. His veiy vanity and selfish- 
 ness, such as they were, were innocent and boyish — they were 
 without malice, and savoured more of pique than gall. 
 
 Of the work Audubon has done, nothing need be said in praise 
 here. Even were I competent to discuss his merits as an 
 ornithologist and ornithological painter, I should be silent, for 
 tliC world has already sottlel those merits in full. I may trust 
 my Keif, however, to say one word in praise of Audubon as a 
 descriptive writer. Some of his reminiscences of adventure, 
 some of which aro published in this book, seem to nie to be 
 quite as good, in vividness of presentment and careful colouring, 
 as anything I have ever read. 
 
viii 
 
 EDITOR'S PUEFACE. 
 
 With tnese few wor <s of explanation and preface, I niayl 
 safely leave tliig volume to the public. The initiated will findl 
 much quite novel matter, and general readers will discoverj 
 plenty of amusing incidents and exciting adventures. 
 
 K. B. 
 
 London, October ht, 1868, 
 
 The portrait on the title-page is taken from a peu-and-ink drawing kindly I 
 lent by Wm. Kcynolds, Esq., of Liverpool, The sketch was made by Audubon] 
 liimself whilst residing in the house of Mr. IJathbone, sho.tly after his first] 
 arrival in England in 18 JU, It bears the inscription, "Almost happy 1" 
 
THE 
 
 LIFE AISD LABOURS OF AUDUBON. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Iktroduction — The Audubon Genealogy.* 
 
 I'nB name of Audubon is of French origin; it is extremely 
 
 fare, and while confined in America to the family of the 
 
 iaturalist, has in France been traced only among his ancestry. 
 
 Ludubon lias told us all that he knew of his relation's. He writes : 
 
 John Audubon my gryndfather was 1 orn at the small village 
 )f Sable d'Olonne, in La Vendee, with a small harbour, forty- 
 ive miles south from Nantes. He was a poor fisherman with a 
 inmerous family, twenty-one of whom grew to maturity. There 
 Hvas but one boy besides my father, he being the tw entieth born, 
 lud tlie only one of the numerous family who lived to a con- 
 siderable age. In subsequent years, when I visited Sable 
 I'Ulonne, the old inhabitants told me that they had seen the 
 /hole of this family, including both parents, at church several 
 times on Sunday." 
 
 The father of the naturalist appears to have caught at an 
 jarly age the restless spirit of his times, and his father, who 
 saw in it the only hope the youth had of obtaining distinction, 
 3ncouraged his love of adventure. He himself says of his start 
 in life : " When I was twelve years of age my father provided 
 
 I * Tlir first five or six chapters are merely the ^ reliminary to tlie series of 
 episodes which follow, and are marked by none of the restless motion and 
 jl)riy;lit colour of tl.e naturalist's life. Still, they will be acceiHablc to those 
 |\vhoni Audubon interests jiersonolly. — H. A. 
 
LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 me with a shirt, a dress of warm clothinp:, Ins blessing, and 
 cane, and sent me out to seek my fortune." 
 
 The youth went to Nantes, and falling in with the captain o| 
 a vessel bound on a fishing voyage to the coast of America, ha 
 shipped on board as a boy before the mast. He continued ntl 
 sea, and by the age of seventeen was rated as an able-bodied 
 seaman. At twenty-one he commanded a vessel, and at twenty-] 
 five he was owner and captain of a small craft. Purchooing 
 other vessels, the enterprising adventurer sailed with his littlJ 
 fleet to the ^Yest Indies. He reached St. Domingo, and theroj 
 fortune dawned upon him. After a few more voyages he 
 purchased a small estate. The prosperity of St. Domingo] 
 already French, so influenced the mariner's fortunes, thai iiii 
 ten years he realised a considerable fortune. Obtaining ail 
 appointment from the governor of St. Domingo, he returnedj 
 to France, and in his official capacity became intimate witiil 
 influential men connected with the government of the First| 
 Empire. Through their good offices he obtained an appoint-! 
 ment in the Imperial navy and the command of a small vessel! 
 of war. A warm sympathy with the changes wrought by the! 
 revolution, and an idolatrous worship of Nnpoleon, must haves 
 contributed greatly to his success. 
 
 While resident in France he purchased a beautiful estate onl 
 the Loire, nine miles from Nantes; — there, after a life of re-| 
 markable vicissitude, the old sailor died, in 1818, at the great! 
 age of ninety-five, regretted, as he deserved to be, on account! 
 of his simplicity of manners and perfect sense of honesty.! 
 Our Audubon has described his father as a man of good] 
 proportions, measuring five feet ten inches in height, having! 
 a hardy constitution ond the agility of a wild cat. His! 
 manners, it is asserted, were most polished, and his natural 
 gifts improved by self-education. He had a warm and even 
 violent temper, described as rising at times into ** the blast of a 
 hurricane," but readily appeased. Wnile residing in the West 
 Indies, he frequently visited North America, and with some fore- 
 sight made purchases of land in the French colony of Louisiana, j 
 in Virginia, and Peunsylvania. In one of his American visits he! 
 met and married in Louisiana a lady of Spanish extraction, 
 
PURCHASE OF MILL GROVE. 
 
 blessing, and nHwliose beauty and wealth may have made her equally attractive. 
 
 jA family of three sons and one daughter blessed this union, and 
 
 1 the captain oHtlie subject of this biographical sketch was the youngest of the 
 
 of America, lu^pons. Soon after his birth Sladame Audubon accompanied her 
 
 usband to the estate of Aux Cayes in the island of St. Domingo, 
 
 nd there miserably perished during the memorable rising of the 
 
 egro population. 
 
 The black revolt so endangered the property of the foreigners 
 resident in St. Domingo, that the plate and money belonging to 
 he Audubon family had to be carried away to New Orleans by 
 be more faithful of their servants, lleturning to France with 
 lis family, the elder Audubon again married, left his young son, 
 lie future naturalist, under charge of his second wife, and re- 
 urned to the United States, in tlie employment of the French 
 i;overnment, as an officer in tlie Imperial navy. While there he 
 ecanie attached to the army under Lafayette. Moving hither 
 nd thither under various changes, he seldom or never communi- 
 cated with his boy ; but meanwhile the property which remained 
 o him in St. Domingo was greatly augmenting in value. During 
 visit paid to Pennsylvania, the restless Frenchman purchased 
 he farm of Mill Grove on the Perkiominy Creek, near the 
 Schuylkil Falls. Finally, after a life of restless adventure, he 
 eturned to France and filled a post in the Marine ; and after 
 pending some portion of his years at Rochefort, retired to his 
 state on the Loire. This estate was left by Commodore Audubon 
 o his son John James, who conveyed it to his sister without even 
 ;visitiijg the domain he so generously willed away. 
 
 e continued nt| 
 an able-bodie 
 
 and at twenty 
 :t. Purchooin 
 
 with his littlei 
 ngo, and therci 
 re voyages h 
 
 St. Domingo,| 
 rtunes, that in 
 
 Obtaining an 
 o, he returned 
 
 intimate witli 
 t of the First 
 id an appoint- 
 a small vessel 
 rought by the 
 on, must have 
 
 tiful estate on 
 a life of re- 
 , at the greats 
 )e, on account % 
 
 of honesty, 
 man of good I 
 leight, having i 
 ild cat. His ^ 
 
 his natural I 
 rm and even | 
 the blast of a I 
 in the West j 
 ith some fore- ^ 
 of Louisian,!, I 
 •ican visits ho 
 h extraction, 
 
 i f- 
 
 B 2 
 
LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 The Xaturalist's Chii,dho(ii) — His First Visit to America. 
 
 The naturalist was born in Louisiana, and his earliest recollec- 
 tions are associated witli lying among the flowers of that fertile 
 land, sheltered by the orange trees, and watching tlie move- 
 ments of the mocking-bird, " the king of song," dear to him in 
 after life from many associations. He has remarked that his 
 earlicjst impressions of nature were exceedingly vivid ; tlie 
 beauties of natural scenery stirred " a frenzy " in his blood, and at 
 the earliest age the bent of his future studies were indicated by 
 many cliaracteristic traits. He ap^jears to have left Louisiana 
 while but a child, and gone to St. Domingo, where he residoil 
 for a short period, previous to his departure for France, where 
 his education was to be commenced. 
 
 His earliest recollections of his life in France extend to 
 his home in the central district of the city of Nantes, and a 
 fact he remembered well was being attended by two negro 
 servants sent home from India by his fother. He speaks 
 of his life in Nantes as joyous in the extreme. His step- 
 mother, being without any children of her own, humoured the 
 child in every whim, and indulged him in every luxury. The 
 future naturalist, who in the recesses of American forests 
 was to live jn roots and fruits, and even scantier fare, was 
 indulged with a " carte blanche " on all the confectionery 
 shops in tlie village where his summer months were passed, 
 and he speaks of tlie kindnesses of ids stepuiofher as over- 
 whelming. His father had less weakness, ordered the boy 
 
 jto attenil 
 I at home, 
 (of fortune! 
 I ing his wi^ 
 thoroughl]| 
 I the younj 
 that educ^ 
 the years 
 education ' 
 I wants of 
 1 father, fr( 
 should bee 
 engineer ; 
 I course of 
 I geographj 
 of educat 
 course of 
 old sailor 
 had, for n 
 upon the 
 master, he 
 abominati 
 during th 
 David th 
 objects o 
 French i 
 cernible : 
 over, a pi 
 years he 
 among n 
 Inlluei 
 his schoi 
 science 1 
 his instr 
 and larg 
 pvopensi 
 frequent 
 with obj 
 of moss. 
 
SCHOOL DAYS. 
 
 Ito iittt'iul to his education, to be sent to school, to be tutored 
 at home. The elder Audubon had known too many changes 
 of fortune to believe in the ficklr goddess; and notwithstand- 
 ing his wife's tears and entreaties, determining to educate his son 
 I thoroughly, as the safest inheritance he could leave him, he sent 
 t)ie young gentleman straightway to school. Audubon laments 
 I that education in France was but miserabb' attended to during 
 the years that succeeded the great political convulsions. Military 
 education had usurped all the care of the First Empire, and the 
 wants of the civil population were but sparingly heeded. His 
 father, from natural predilections, was desirous that the boy 
 should become a sailor, a cadet in the French navy, or an 
 engineer ; and with these views before him, he decided on the 
 course of study his son should follow. JVIathematics, drawing, 
 geography, fencing, ami music, were among the branches 
 of education prescribed ; it being evident that a complex 
 course of instruction was not among the misapprehensions the 
 old sailor's professional prejudices had nurtured. Audubon 
 had, for music -master, an adept who taught him to play adroitly 
 upon the violin, flute, flageolet, and guitar. For drawing- 
 master, he had David, the chief inventor and worshipper of the 
 abominations which smothered the aspirations of French artists 
 during the revolutionary generation. Nevertheless it was to 
 David that Audubon owed his earliest lessons in tracing 
 objects of natural history, and the mannerism of the great 
 French artist may still be traced in certain pedantries dis- 
 cernible in Audubon's style of drawing. Audubon was, more- 
 over, a proficient in dancing, — an accomplishment which in after 
 years he had more ojiportunities of practising among bears than 
 among men. 
 
 Inlluenced by the military fever of his time, he dreamed in 
 his school days of being a soldier ; but happily for natural 
 science his adventurous spirit found another outlet. Fortunately 
 his instruction was under the practical guidance of his mother, 
 and large scope was allowed him for indulging in nest-hunting 
 propensities. Supplied with a haversack of provisions, he made 
 frequent excursions into tlie country, and usually returned loaded 
 with objects of natural history, birds' nests, birds' eggs, specimens 
 of moss, curious stones, and other objects attractive to his eye. 
 
 I 
 
 f 
 
 1 
 
LIFK OF AUDUBON. 
 
 When the old sailor returned from sea he was astonished at I 
 the largo collection his boy had made, paid him some compli- 
 ments on his good tusto, and asked what progress ho had made I 
 in his other studies. No satisfactory reply being given, ho 
 retired without reproach, but, evidently mortified at the idleners 
 of the young naturalist, seemed to turn his attention towards | 
 his daughter, whose musical attainments had been successfully 
 cultivated. On the day following the disclosure father and son 
 started for Rochcfort, where the older held some appointment. 
 The journey occupied four days, and the pair did not exchange 
 one unnecessary word during the journey, teaching his official 
 residence, the father explained that he himself would super- 
 intend his son's education ; gave the boy liberty for one day to 
 survey the sliips of war and the fortifications, and warned him 
 that on the morrow a severe course of study should bo com- 
 menced. And commence it did accordingly. 
 
 More than a year was spent in the close study of mathematics ; 
 though whenever opportunity occurred the S(;verer study was 
 neglected for rambles after (jbjects of natural history, and the 
 (•'•Uection of more specimens. At Nantes, Audubon actually 
 began to di-aw sketches of French birds, — a work he continued 
 with such assiduity that he completed two hundred specimens. 
 
 His fatlicr was desirous that he should join the armies 
 of Napoleon, and win fame by following the French eagles. 
 Warfare, however, had ceased to be a passion of the youth, and 
 he was sent out to America to superintend his father's pro- 
 perties. He has recor led in afteetiiig language his regret at 
 leaving behind him the country wliere he had spent his boy- 
 hood, the friends upon wliose affections lie relied, the associations 
 tliat had been endeared to him. "While the breeze wafted along 
 the great ship, hours were spent in deep sorrow or melancholy 
 
 musings. 
 
 " On landing at New York I caught the yellow fever, by 
 walking to the bank in Greenwich Street to cash my letters 
 of credit." Captain John Smith, whose name is gratefully 
 recorded, took compassion on the young emigrant, removed 
 him to Morristown, and placed him under the care of two 
 Quaker ladi( s at a lx)arding-hou.se, and to the kindness of 
 these la'lies he doubtless owed his life. His father's agent, 
 
INTRODUCTION TO HIS WII-E. 
 
 \Ir. Fisher, of Philadelpliia, knowing his condition, went with 
 
 ilia carringe to his lodging, and drove the invalid to his villa, 
 
 jsituated at some distance from the city on the road to Trenton. 
 
 \Mv. Fisher was a Quaker, and a strict formalist in religious 
 
 Imatters ; did not approve of hunting, and even objected to music. 
 
 jTo the adventurous and romantic youth this homo was little 
 
 [livelier than a prison, and he gladly escaped from it. Mr. 
 
 Fisher, at his request, put him in possession of his father's 
 
 property of ]Mill Grove, on the Perkiominy Creek; and i'om 
 
 the rental paid by the tenant, a Quaker nam(;d William Thomas, 
 
 the youth found himself supplied with all the funds he needed. 
 
 At Mill Grove young Audubon found "a blessed s])ot." In 
 the regularity of the fences, the straight and military exactness 
 of the avenues, Audubon saw his father's taste, nay, his very 
 handiwork. The mill attached to the ])rop('rty was to him a 
 daily source of enjoyment, and ho was delighted with the repose 
 of the quiet milldam where the pewees were accustomed to 
 build. " Hunting, fishing, and drawing occupied my every 
 moment," he writes ; adding, " cares I knew no^, and cared 
 nothing for them." 
 
 In simple and unaffected language he relates his introduction 
 to his wife, the daughter of Mr. liakewell, an English gentleman 
 who had purchased the adjoining propi'rty. Mr. Bakewell lived 
 at Fatland Ford, within sight of Mill Grove, but Audubon had 
 avoided the family, as Englisli and objectionable to one who had 
 been nurtured with hatred to " perfidious Albion." The very 
 name of Englishman was odious to him, he tells us; and oven 
 after his neighbour had called upon him, he was uncivil ( nougli 
 to postpone his advances in return. ]\[rs. Thomas, tlie tenant's 
 wife at j\lill Grove, with a woman's desire to see what the issue 
 miglit be, urged her young master to visit the Bakewell family ; 
 but the more he was urged his heart ajipeared to be the more 
 hardened against the stranger. 
 
 The winter's frosts had set in. Audubon was following some 
 grouse down the creek, when suddejily he came upon Mr. Bake- 
 well, who at once dissipated the Frenchman's prejudices by the 
 discovery of kindred tastes. Audubon writes : " I was struck 
 with the kind politeness of his manners, and found him a most 
 expert marksman, and entered into conversation. I admired 
 
LIFK OF audi; BON. 
 
 tlio beauty of his vvoU-trained dofjjs, Jind finally promised to call 
 upon liiiii uud his family. Woll do 1 rt'collect the moruiiij:, 
 and may'it pleaso God that 1 may never forgc^t it, when, for thid 
 first time, I entered the Bakowell household. It hapi)eii('d that 
 jMr. Bakewell was fi'oia home. 1 was shown into u parlour, where 
 only one young lady was snugly seated at work, with her back 
 turned towards the fire. She rose on my entranee, oHbred me a 
 seat, and assured me of tho gratification her father would fee 
 on his return, which, she added with a smile, would l)e in a few | 
 minutes, as she would send a servant after him. Other ruddy 
 cheeks made their ap[)earttn(!e, but like spirits gay, vanished from 
 my sight. Talking and working, the young lady who remained 
 madathe time i)ass pleasantly enough, and to mo especially so. 
 It was she, my dear Lucy ]]akewell, who afterwards became my 
 wife and the mother of my children." 
 
 Mr. Bakewell speedily returned, and Lucy attended to the 
 lunch provided before leaving on a shooting expedition. " Lucy 
 rose from her seat a second time, and her form, to which 1 had 
 before paid little attention, seemed radiant with beauty, ami my 
 heart and eyes followed her every step. The re|)ast being over, 
 guns and dogs were provided, and as we left I was pleased to 
 believe that Lucy looked upon me as a not very strange animal. 
 Bowing to her, I felt 1 knew not why, that I was at least not 
 indifferent to her." 
 
 'Ihe acquaintance so pleasantly begun rapidly matured. 
 Audubon and Bakewell were often companions in their shooting 
 excursions, and finally the whole Bakewell lamily were invited 
 to Mill Grove. 
 
 The property of Audubon was separated fi-om Bakewell's 
 plantation by a road leading from Morristown to Pawling's 
 Landing, now Pawling's Bridge, or about a quarter of a mile 
 apart; and the result of the friendly relationship established 
 between the two households gave rise to a series of mutual 
 signals, chalked on a board and hung out of the window. 
 The friendship deepened. Lucy Bakewell taught English to 
 Audubon, and received drawing lessons in return. Of course 
 no one failed to predict tiie result ; but as a love affair is chiefly 
 interesting to those immediately concerned, we pass on to other 
 matters. 
 
 A>1'1UATK»N! 
 
(jiiArrEii III. 
 
 Asl'lUAl'lDNS — YdUTilFUL HlX'OI.LECTlDNS — A MAnVKr.LuUH KsCAlM'; — (il,i;AM8 
 
 OK Dauon Musoiiaubkn. 
 
 At Jlill (irove Audubon pored over his idea of a great work on 
 American Ornitliology, until the thought took some shaiie in his 
 fervid mind. The work he had prepared for himself to do was an 
 "Ornithological Biography," incduding an account of the habits 
 and a description of tlie birds of America; that work which in 
 its coinpletiid form Cuvier i^rononnced to be " The most gigantic 
 biblical enterprise ever undertaken by the enterprise of a single 
 inilividual." However, it was only after his drawings and his 
 descriptions accumulated upon him that Audubon decided to 
 give the collection the form of a scientific work. 
 
 Audubon speaks of his life at ^lill Grove as being in every 
 way agreeable. He had am[)le means for all his wants, was 
 gay, extravagant, and fond of dress. He rather naively writes 
 in his journal, " I had no vices ; but was thoughtless, pensive, 
 loving, fond of shooting, fishing, and riding, and had a passion 
 for raising all sorts of fowls, and which sources of interest 
 and amusement fully occnpi(Hi my time. It was one of my 
 fancies to be ridiculously fond of dress ; to hunt in black 
 satin breeches, w^'ar pumps when shooting, and dress in the 
 iinest ruftled shirts I could obtain from France." He was also 
 fond of dancing, and music, und skating, and attended all the 
 balls and skating parties in his neighbourhood. Regarding his 
 mode of life, Audidion gives some hints useful to those who 
 (jcsiro to streimtheii tlieir constitution bv an abstemious diet. 
 
10 
 
 LiPK OF AununoN. 
 
 ]Io says: — "I ate no Imtdicr'H mciit, liv<Ml cliicdy oii fruits,] 
 vo^ctublcs, and (isli, and uoyvv drank a !j;lass of H[»irits or wine 
 until my weddiiij:; day. To tliis I attriI)Uto my continual good! 
 hcaltli, endurance, and an iron constitution. 80 stronjjj was] 
 tho habit, that 1 disliked f^oinjj; to dinner parties, where j)eopl(' 
 were expected to indulj^e in eating' and drinkinj;, and wlu.'re 
 often there was not a Hin<j;le dish to my taste. I cared nothiuL,'! 
 for sumi)tuous ent(!rtainnients. I'ies, puddin^^s, eggs, and milk I 
 or cream was the food I liked best ; and nuuiy a time was tho 1 
 dairy of JMrs. Tiiomas, the tenant's wife of ]\Iill ( Jrov(>, robbed of 
 tho cream intended to mnk(> butter for tlu* I'hihuh'Iphia market. 
 All this while T was i'air and rosy as a girl, strong as any one of I 
 my age and sex could be, and as active and agile as a buck. 
 And why, have I often thought, should I not have kept to this 
 delicious mode of living ?" 
 
 Note hiMe a curious incident in connection with his love of 
 skating and his })roflciency as a marksman. Having been 
 skating down the Perkiominy Creek, he met jMiss Bakewell's 
 yoiuig brother William, and wagered that he woiild put a 
 shot through his cap when ossed into tho air, whil<> Audubon 
 was passing full speed. Tho experiment was niade, and the 
 cap riddled. A still more striking incident is thus related : 
 "Having engaged in a duek-shooting expolition up tho 
 Perkiominy Creek with young IJakewell and some young 
 I'riends, it was found that tlie ice was full of dangerous air-hol(;s. 
 On our upward journey it was easy to avoid accident, but tho 
 return trip was attended with an accident which had nearly 
 closed my career. Indi-ed, my escape was one of th3 inconceiv- 
 able miracles that occasionally rescu(!S a doomed man from his 
 fate. The trip was extended too iar, and night and darkness 
 had set in long before we reaclu'd home. 1 led the party 
 through the dusk with a white handkerchief made fast to a stick, 
 and we proceeded like a flock of geese going to their fee ling 
 ground. Watching for air-holes, I generally avoided them ; but 
 increasing our speed, I suddenly plunged into one, was carried 
 for some distance by the stream under the ice, and stunned and 
 choking I was forced up through another air-hole farther down 
 the stream. I clutched hold of the ice and ari-este ! my downward 
 progress, until my companions arrived to help me. ]\Iy wet 
 
INTERFERENCE OF HIS PARTNER. 
 
 11 
 
 •lothoH had to bo clmnj^od. Ono lent mo a sliirt, anothor a 
 
 [•out, anl go apparoUol I r;mimod my homowurd jounioy. 
 
 |lInid)lo to reaoh Mill Grovo, T wns taken to Mr. nukowoirs 
 
 hoiiso cliillod and Itruisod. It was throo months Ix^fom I 
 
 lict'overed, notwithstanding tho advice of ahh physicians called 
 
 lin from Phihidi!li)liia." • 
 
 Tli(» quiot lifo yoiinp"; Audubon lod at ]\[ill Qrovo was iiitor- 
 Iniptcd by an incident in his lifo which nnght have proved 
 Hcrious to ono owning less energy and luirdiiiood than Iks pos- 
 iHcssed. A "partner, tutor, and monitor," ono Da Casta, sent 
 from Franco by tho elder Audubon to prosecute the lead mine 
 [enterprise at Mill (irove, began to assume; an authority over 
 young Audubon which tho latter consiilerod unwarranted. An 
 attempt was made to limit his finances, and Da Casta, unforfu- 
 nat( ly for himst'lf, went further, and objected to the propped 
 union with Lucy IJnkewell, as being an unotpml match. 
 Audubon resented such interference, and dcniianded money 
 from J )a Casta to carry him to Franco. Tho French adventurer 
 snggested a voyage to India, but finally agreed to giv(! Audub(jn 
 a letter of credit upon an agent named Kanman, in New York. 
 With charactiM-istic earnestness Audubon walked straight off to 
 Now York, where ho arrived in three days, notwithstanding tho 
 Roverity of a midwinter journey. The day following his arrival 
 he called upon Mr. Kanman, who frardvly told him ho had no 
 money to give him, and further disclosed Da Castas treachery 
 by hinting that Audubon should be seized and shipped for 
 China. Furious at this treatment, Audubon procured money 
 from a friend, and engaged a passage on board the brig Hope, 
 of New Bedford, bound for Nantes. He left New York, and 
 after considerable delays, surprised his parents in their quiet 
 country home. 
 
 i 
 
1,1 1'K OK Al Mill IK IN. 
 
 Imitiinl 
 Liiicrlii'iiil 
 Iwiis nidi'i' 
 jtlii- l''nMi(| 
 liTuisii ii) 
 
 III iiiii«l( 
 
 lit WHS itnl 
 
 llhsK 
 
 (MIAI'TI'IK IV. 
 
 H Ai iitMioNH \'u\,\(ii; III I''iiAM'i: — IliK I''a'iiii;ii',s ihsmkni 
 
 ■ni 
 Ills M Alii; I, •.HI'; IJiMWAi. c'l'' I'lnii-miN'iiNii I'lmsm im — I'lx amisa'I'Iun 
 
 liMi I'll 
 
 i: l''u 
 
 M 
 
 AMI / 
 
 ;\lT 
 
 IINTMI'-.NT 111 I' 
 
 III': I 
 
 1 1ST II 
 
 h' Mm 
 
 -iiu'm A\ 
 
 II UN ri> .\mi:kua ('iiam'.k iiy a 1'uivaii:i;ii -Nakiih 
 
 I'lsi'AI'l. IliuM l.ii',lMi Ills (iiil.li. 
 
 I'".\n, AIMNO (o liis ladiiT llit> sciiii(liil(»iis niiidui'l of hiiCasIji, 
 ymiii^' .\uiliilinu iMcviiilt'tl so I'nr (liiil lliv* frnilor was H'liiuvnl 
 iVdin llii- |)osili(iii ill wliicii lu^ liiid Ixtii |i|j|ri'il willi siirli 
 liastv 
 
 ('iHiruiriici'. Ilrliail also to r('i|iii'sl liis I'al licr's a|t|ii'oval 
 ol'liis iii;iriiM:;(> with Aliss Ijiicy l'>;ik('Wi'll. and llio lallirr pioiuisrd 
 to (li'ciilr as soon as lio liad an .iiisucr lo a lodrr lie liad •vriltoii 
 to l\lr. r>,ilv('W('ll ill PoiiiisylYaiiiii. Sotllcd in the paternal lionso 
 lor a yrai'. (Iio naturalist i;ratii"rd in o- ory Ijishion his waiidn- '1 
 i'li:; inslincls. Im' icaiiird every wIumc in the neii;hlionrhiiod ol' 
 the heine, shnotinn'. lisliinu, and eolleelinL;' s|ie('inii'ns ol' natural 
 history, lie also eonliniieil his earel'iil dniwinus ot" natural 
 
 liisi 
 
 orv siieeiniens. 
 
 and stniVed and 
 
 |iie|>areil many inids and 
 
 animals -an art wliirh he had e.ireluiiy arijiiiri'd in Ainerira. 
 In (>ne year two hundred drawings of I'liiroiiean hirds had heiii 
 eom|i|i led a fact wliii-h displays marvellous indiisdy, if it does 
 not necessarily iinply a sound artistie re|iri'seniation ol" the 
 liirds drawn. At this period the Iremenilons eonvulsions of 
 the I'reneh emjiire had eidminated in colossal preparations 
 tor a contlit't with Kussia. 'I'he ('onscription threatened every 
 man capahle of liearinu' arms, and Audubon appeared to Ixdieve 
 that ho stood in some ilanger ol' heiii;,'; enrolled in the {X<'iiel'al 
 
 rcn\ovci' 
 The gol 
 woollen 
 s^liip, wl 
 Koachii 
 was spi 
 
(MIAHKD ItY 'I'lIK KA'n'r.KSNAKK. 
 
 i;» 
 
 i:il s ciiNMKN r 'Id 
 H — I'lxAMINATliiN 'I 
 
 K I '"ST (II'' Mm 
 ATi;i':ii -Nakiiiiw 
 
 "I" \h\ (!;islj,, I 
 \\;is iciiiuvrd V 
 '<! willi siicli I 
 i"'i''« iipproviil J 
 (Ikt |ti'oiiiisc(| 5 
 
 liitd •viidcii 
 iilcriiMl lidiisr 
 II Ill's wiiiidcr- 
 iiiiir)i<i(Ml of 
 ii>i <>!' iiJidir.il 
 M ol' iiiilurnl 
 "V liirds iiiiil 
 
 ill Aiiii'ricji. 
 
 •Is lljul llfcll 
 I'.V, if i( (Iocs 
 
 idori ol' (li,. 
 iiviilsioiis oT 
 I'H'piii-iitioiis 
 IriK'd cvci'v 
 il to liclicvc 
 fill' /iriKTiil 
 
 vy. His two hiitlln'is were iilrciKly scrviii;^ in llic iiniiicH (»!' 
 ipolcoii IIS olliccirt, itii-i il. WHS (Iccidcd lliiit. tlicir jr .ior siionid 
 
 Iviiliiiiliiiily join l!i<' nnvy. After |)iissiii^ wlmt. Iin culled " ii 
 
 Liipci lii'i.il rxtiininiition " for mi ii|)|)ointiii(>iit. mh niids]ii|iMiuii. Ik; 
 
 jwns oi'<l('i'<'d to n>|iort lit Koi^lielort. I'liitcriii;^^ iipoii liis diilics in 
 
 lllic I'Vciicli niiiiiiio, lie wiis tlcstincd to iiiiike at Iciist one sliorl. 
 I'lilisc ill llic service of l'"r;iiiee. I'.el'ore ciiterili}^ tiie service iie 
 liiid iiiiide lli(« iic(|iiiiiiitiMie(> of a. yoiiiin- nian naiiicd l<'crdiiiiiiid 
 ildsier, witli wlioiii lie had niiide some |)ro])osiil of f^oiii;^ to 
 America. On llii^ reliirn of tlie vessel in wliicli Ik; acted, 
 it WHS proposed that lie and Hosier should leave for America as 
 
 Ipiirliiers, under a iiiin' yt'iirs' eii;j^a|i;enient. 'I'he elder Andnlton 
 (tliliiiMcd leiive of iil»senc(! for his son ; and after |)assp()rt,s were 
 prevideii, llii' two emi;;riiiits left, (''ranee at. u period when 
 
 I llidiisiiiids would hiive liecn ;j,lad of liherfy to i'ollow their foot- 
 steps, 
 
 Aliont two weeks after leavin;^' l''r.ince, a vesscd ;:;!ive chiisfs 
 Id tli(> l''reiicli vessid, piisse<l her Ity to windward, lired a shot. 
 
 j IK ross her hows, and conlinned the chase until the ciijtiain 
 if tiie oiitwiird hound was forced to Iteavo his slii|) to, and 
 siiliiiiil to he hoarded hy a hoat. 'I'lu^ ("iieiiiy proved to he the 
 I :}m Miiglish privateer llatllcsnake, the ciiptain of which was sadly 
 vexed to lind that his prey was an Anjericaii vessel, carrying 
 jiroper papers, and Hyinjjj the stars and slri})cs, llnahlc^ to 
 (Ictaiii the vessel, the privateer's crew (leterinined id least to 
 
 re 
 
 ih Ih 
 
 passeiii^'crs. 
 
 hey took pi^s and sheep," writes 
 
 Audubon, " and carri(>d away two ol' our best sailors, in s[)ite of 
 the reiiioiisl ranees i^i' the captain, and of a iiKMiiher of iIk; 
 railed Slates (■onuress, who was a passen;j:er on hoard, and 
 was acconipani<'d hy an auiiahle (lauj;liler. The Uattlesnako 
 
 kcii 
 
 it us umhr h{>r lee, and almost within [)istol-shol, for a day 
 and a ni}>'lit. ransiickiiij^- the sliip for money, of which wo had a 
 great deal in t!u> run uiuh'r the hiiilast, which thon;j;h partially 
 removed, they did not go det*]) enough to reach the treasure. 
 The gold helonging to IJosier and myself 1 put away in a 
 Wdiillen slocking und"r the shiji's cahle in th(> hows of the 
 slii[), where it remaineil safe until tlu> privateers had departed. 
 Kcacliing within thirty miK's of iSandy Hook, a lishing-suiack 
 was spoken, which reported that two lirilish frigates lay ofl' 
 
14 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 the entrance, and had fired on an American ship; that they 
 were impressing American seamen, and that, in fact, they 
 were even more dangerous to meet than the pirates ^vho'sailed 
 under a ' letter of marque.' The captain, warned of one danoer 
 ran into another. He took his vessel through Lciig Island 
 Sound, and ran it upon a spit in a gale. Floated oflf tlic 
 Adventurous ; finally reached New York in safety." 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 TlIIO rNt^TIXCTS OF 'I'lIK XaTUKAI.IST — Du'FICULTIKS TO liK OvKRCOMK IN 
 
 PKriOTiNo liiiins — Autistic Anxikt'iks — KNowi.EnciK of Botany — (ioFs 
 TO New York to \cyi'iiiF, a Knowledge of Business — Loses Money 
 AND does not Succeed in his Purfose — Portrait of Himself — 
 Heturns to Mill Grove — Expedition to the West. 
 
 From the introductory addrestj iu tlie first voluiuo of Audubon's 
 " Ornitliological Biography," published at Edinburgh, in 1834, 
 many passages may be cited as an exposition of the high 
 aspirations which stimulated the young naturalist to liis task. 
 Tliese passages may be divided into scientific and artistic. Belong 
 ing to tlie first category are constant references to that thirst for 
 accurate and complete knowledge regarding wild animals, and 
 es[)ecially birds, their habits, forms, nests, eggs, progeny, jAaces 
 of breeding, and all that concerned them. But, after all, 
 Audubon was not at heart a man of science. He gathered 
 much, and speculated little, and was more a backwoodsman 
 than a philosopher. In his rough great way ho did good 
 service, but his great physical energy, not his mental resources, 
 was the secret of his success. 
 
 His crude artistic instincts inspired him vith the desire to 
 represent, by the aid of pencil, crayon, or paint, the fo'm, 
 plumage, attitude, and characteristic umrks of his feathered 
 favourites. In working towards this end, he laboured to pro- 
 duce life-like pictures, and frequently with wonderful success. 
 Strongly impressed with the dilUculties of re[»resenting in any 
 perfect degree the living u.nige of the birds he drew, he laboured 
 
'•111' 
 
 IF 
 
 1 i 
 
 m;t 
 
 
 m\ 
 
 ilE: 
 
 !l'i 
 
 ' 
 
 Id; 
 
 16 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 arduously at what we may call forcible photographs in colours, ] 
 his first aim being fidelity, and his next, artistic beauty. How 
 much chagrin his failures cost him may be gleamed from the 
 lamentations he mekes over his unsuccessful efforts in the 
 introductory address referred to above. Eegarding the means 
 he adopted to secure a faultless representation of the animals 
 he desired to transcribe, he writes : — " Patiently and with in- 
 dustry did I apply myself to ^iudy, for although I felt the 
 impossibility of giving life to my productions, I did not abandon 
 the idea of representing nature. Many plans were successively 
 adopted, many masters guided my hand. At the age of seven- 
 teen, when I returned from France, whither I had gone to 
 receive the rudiments of my education, my drawings had assumed 
 a form. David had guided my hand in tracing objects of large 
 size : eyes and noses belonging to giants and heads of horses, 
 represented in ancient sculpture, were my models. These, 
 although fit subjects for men intent on pursuing the higher 
 branches of art, were immediately laid aside by me. I returned 
 to the woods of the new world with fresh ardour, and com- 
 menced a collection of drawings, which I henceforth continued, 
 and which is now publishing under the title z2 ■ The Birds of 
 America.' " 
 
 To resume the narrative of Audubon's journey back to Mill 
 Grove. Da Casta was dismissed from his situation, and Audubon 
 remained his own master. Mr. William Bakewell, the brother 
 of Lucy, has recorded some interesting particulars of a visit to 
 Mill Grove at this period. He says : — " Audubon took me to 
 his house, where he and his companion Hosier resided, with 
 Mrs. Thomas for an attendant. On enterine; his room, I was 
 astonished and delighted to find that it was turned into a 
 museum. The walls were festooned with all sorts of birds' 
 eggs, carefully blown out and strung on a threi.d. The chimney- 
 piece was covered with stuffed squirrels, racoons, and opossums ; 
 and the shelves around were likewise crowded with specimens, 
 amorg which were fishes, frogs, snakes, lizards, and other 
 reptiles. Besides these stuffed varieties, many paintings were 
 arrayed upon the walls, chiefly of birds. He had great skill in 
 stuffing and preserving animals of all sorts. He had also a 
 trick of training dogs with great perfection, of which art his 
 
1 I 
 
 LIFE IN NEW YORK. 
 
 17 
 
 <j| 
 
 [famous dog Zephyr was a wonderful example. Ho was an 
 I admirable marksman, an expert swimmer, a clever rider, pos- 
 Isessed great activity, prodigious strength, and was notable for 
 Ithe elegance of his figure and the beauty of his features, and he 
 I aided nature by a careful attendance to his dress. Besides 
 I other accomplishments, he was musical, a good fencer, danced 
 Iwell, had some acquaintance of legerdemain tricks, worked in 
 hair, and could plait willow-baskets." He adds further, that 
 1 Audubon once swam across the Schuylkil river with him on his 
 back, no contemptible feat for a young athlete. 
 
 The naturalist was evidently a nonpareil in the eyes of his 
 I neighbours, and of those who were intimate enough to know his 
 manifold tastes. But Love began to interfere a little with the 
 gratification of these Bohemian instincts. On expressing his 
 desire of uniting himself to Miss Bakewell, Audubon was advised 
 by Mr. Bakewell to obtain some knowledge of commercial 
 pursuits before getting married. With this intention, Audubon 
 started for New York, entered the counting-house of Mr. Benjamin 
 Bakewell, and made rapid progress in his education by losing 
 some hundreds of pounds by a bad speculation in indigo. 
 
 The leading work done by the imprisoned naturalist was, as 
 I usual, wandering in search of birds and natural curiosities. While 
 so engaged he made the acquaintance of Dr. Samuel Mitchel, 
 one of the leading medical men in New York city, and dis- 
 tinguished as an ethnologist. Dr. Mitchel was one of the 
 founders of the Lyceum of Natural History, and of the * Medical 
 Repository,' which was the first scientific journal started in the 
 United States. Audubon prepared many specimens for this 
 gentleman, which he believed were finally deposited in the New 
 York Museum. After a season of probation, during which 
 Mr. Bakewell became convinced of the impossibility of tutoring 
 Audubon into mercantile habits, the naturalist gladly returned 
 to Mill Grove. Rosier, who had likewise been recommended 
 to attempt commerce, lost a considerable sum in an unfortunate 
 speculation, and eventually returned to Mill Grove with his 
 friend. 
 
 Audubon remarks that at this period it took him but a few 
 minutes, wallring smartly, to pass from one end of New York to 
 I another, so sparse was the population at the date of his residence. 
 
 c 
 
 '1 
 
'i: 
 
 18 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 ■ 1 i,; 
 
 m 
 
 
 ih 
 
 ff, 
 
 He adds, in reference to his absent habits and unsuitability for 
 business, that he at one time posted without sealing it a letter 
 containing 8000 dollars. His natural history pursuits in New 
 York occasioned a disagreeable flavour from his rooms, occasioned 
 by drying birds' skins ; and was productive of so much annoyance 
 to his neighbours, that they forwarded a message to him through 
 a constable, insisting on his abating the nuisance. An excellent 
 pen and ink sketch of his own appearance at this time has been 
 left by Andubon. He says ; " I measured five feet ten and a 
 half inches, was of a fair mien, and quite a handsome figure ; 
 large, dark, and rather sunken eyes, light-coloured eyebrows, 
 aquiline nose, and a fine set of teeth; hair, fine texture and 
 luxuriant, divided and passing down behind each ear in luxuriant | 
 ringlets as far as the shoulders." There appears excellent 
 reason to believe that Audubon quite appreciated his youthful 
 graces, and, with the naivete of a simple nature, was not ashamed [ 
 to record them. 
 
 After returning to Mill Grove, Audubon and his friend Eosier I 
 planned an expedition towards the west, at that time a wild] 
 region thinly populated by a very strange people. 
 
5' 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 I Audubon's Marriage and Journey to Louisville — His Settlement 
 
 THERE AND PLEASANT LiFE — CONTINUANCE OP HIS PURSUITS — WEST- 
 ERN Hospitality — Business Prospects — Removal of Business to 
 Hendersonville— Meeting with Alexander Wilson, the American 
 Ornithologist, and Paisley Poet. 
 
 j The journey of Audubon and Rosier to Kentucky had for its 
 purpose the discovery of some outlet for the naturalist's energies, 
 
 [in the shape of a settled investment, which would permit 
 
 I of his marriage to Miss Bakewell. In Louisville Audubon de- 
 termined to remain, and with this purpose in view he sold his 
 plantation of Mill Grove, invested his capital in goods, and pre- 
 
 1 pared to start for the west. His arrangements being complete, 
 he was married to Miss Bakewell on the 8th of April, 1808, in 
 
 1 her father's residence at Fatland Ford. Journeying by Pittsburg 
 the wedded pair reached Louisville with their goods in safety. 
 From Pittsburg they sailed down the Ohio in a flat-bottomed 
 float named an ark, and which proved to be an exceedingly 
 
 [tedious and primitive mode of travelling. This river voyage 
 occupied twelve days, and must have given the naturalist 
 wonderful opportunities of making observations. At Louisville 
 
 I he commenced trade under favourable auspices, but the hunting 
 of birds continued to be the ruling passion. His life at this 
 period, in the company of his young wife, appears to have been 
 
 I extremely happy, and he writes that he had really reason " to 
 care for nothing." The country around Louisville was settled 
 
 jby planters who were fond of hunting, and among whom Iio 
 
 c 2 
 
 r 
 
20 
 
 LIFK OK AUDUBON. 
 
 found a ready welcome. The shooting and drawing of birds was 
 continue 1. His friend Rosier, less fond of rural sports, stuck to 
 the counter, and, as Audubon phrases it, " grew rich, and tliat 
 was all he cared for." Audubon's pursuits appear to have severed | 
 him from the business, which was left to Rosier's management. 
 Finally, the war of 1812 imperilled the prosperity of the part- 1 
 ners, and what goods remained on hand were shipped to Hender- 
 sonville, Kentucky, where Rosier remained for some years longer, 
 before going farther westward in search of tlie fortune he coveted. 
 Writing of the kindness shown him by his friends at Louisville, 
 Audubon relates that when he was absent on business, or " away I 
 on expeditions," his wife was carried off to some neighbour's | 
 house, and taken care of till he returned. 
 
 It was at Louisville that Audubon made the acquaintance of I 
 Wilson, the American ornithologist. Wilson, a poor Scottish 
 rhyme-making weaver, had been driven from Paisley through 
 his sympathies with the political agitators of that notable 
 Scottish town ; and finding a refuge in the United States, had 
 turned his attention to ornithology. From the pages of Audu- 
 bon's * Ornithological Biography ' it may be interesting to re- 
 produce an account of the meeting between the two naturalists. 
 " One fair morning," writes Audubon, " I was surprised by the 
 sudden entrance into our counting-room at Louisville of Mr. 
 Alexander Wilson, the celebrated author of the * American 
 Ornithology,' of whose existence I had never until that moment 
 been apprized. This happened in March, 1810. How well do I 
 remember him, as he then walked up to me ! His long, rather 
 hooked nose, the keenness of his eyes, and his prominent cheek- 
 bones stamped his countenance with a peculiar character. His 
 dress, too, was of a kind not usually seen in that part of the 
 country ; a short coat, trousers, and a waistcoat of grey cloth. 
 His stature was not above the middle size. He had two volumes 
 undei' his arm, and as he approached the table at which I was 
 working, I thought I discovered something like astonishment in 
 his countena'.ice. He, however, immediately proceeded to dis- 
 close the object of his visit, which was to procure subscriptions 
 for his work. He opened his books, explained the nature of his 
 occupations, and requested my patronage. I felt surprised and 
 gratified at the sight of his volumes, turned over a few of the 
 
t^ 
 
 VISIT OF ALEXANDKR WILSON. 
 
 21 
 
 plates, and had already taken a pen to write my name in his 
 favour, when my partner rather abruptly said to me in French, 
 My dear Audubon, what induces you to subscriljc to this work ? 
 Your drawings are certainly i'ar lietter ; and aj:ain, you must know 
 as much of tiie habits of Atnori(.'an birds as this gentleman.' 
 Whether Mr. Wilson understood French or not, or if the 
 suddenness with which I paused, disappointed him, i cannot 
 tell ; but 1 clearly perceived that he was not pleased. Vanity 
 and the encomiums of my friend prevented mo from subscribing. 
 Mr. Wilson asked me if I had many drawings of birds. I rose, 
 took down a large portfolio, laid it on the table, and showed 
 him — as I would show you, kind reatler, or any other person fond 
 of such subjects — the whole of the contents, with the same patience 
 with which he had shown me his own engravings. His surprise 
 ni)peared great as he told me he never had the most distant 
 idea that any other individual than himself had been engaged 
 in forming such a collection. He asked me if it was my intention 
 to publish, and when 1 answered in the negative, his surprise 
 seemed to increase. And, truly, such was not my intention; 
 for, until long after, when I met the Prince of Musignano in 
 Philadelphia, I had not the least idea of presenting the fruits of 
 my labours to the world. Mr. Wilson now examined my drawings 
 with care, asked if I should have any objections to lending him 
 a few during his stay, to which 1 replied that I had none. He 
 then bade me good morning, not, however, until I had made an 
 arrangement to explore the woods in the vicinity along with 
 him, and had promised to procure for him some birds, of which 
 1 had drawings in my collection, but which he had never seen. 
 It happened that he lodged in the same house with us, but his 
 retired habits, I thought, exhibited either a strong feeling of 
 discontent or a decided melancholy. The Scotch airs which he 
 played sweetly on his flute made me melancholy too, and I felt 
 for him. I presented him to my wife and friends, and seeing 
 that he was all enthusiasm, exerted myself as much as was in 
 my power to procure for him the specimens which he wanted. 
 We hunted together, and obtained birds which he had never 
 before seen ; but, reader, I did not subscribe to his work, for, 
 even at that time, my collection was greater than his. Thinking 
 that perhaps he might be pleased to publish the results of my 
 

 22 
 
 I-IFE OF AUDURON. 
 
 iliil'i'l^ 
 
 iferi^ 
 
 researches, I offered thoni to hira, merely on condition that wliat ] 
 I had drawn, or might afterwards draw and send to him, shonld 
 be mentioned in his work as coming from my pencil. I at thti 
 same time oifered to open a correspondence with him, which I 
 thought might prove beneficial to ns both. He made no reply I 
 to either proposal, and before many days had elapsed left 
 Louisville, on his way to New Orleans, little knowing how much 
 his talents were appreciated in our little town, at lea^l by inyst'lf | 
 and my friends. 
 
 " Some time elapsed, during which I never heard of him, or 
 of his work. At length, having occasion to go to Philadelphia, 
 I, immediately after my arrival there, inquired for him, and 
 paid him a visit. He was then drawing a white-headed eagle. 
 He received me with civility, and took me to the exhi})itiou 
 rooms of Rembrandt Peale, the artist, who had then poitrayed 
 Napoleon crossing the Alps. Mr. Wilson sjjoke not of birds or 
 drawings. Feeling, as I was forced to dj, that my company 
 was not agreeable, I parted from him ; and after that I never 
 saw him again. But judge of my astonishment some time after, 
 when, on reading the thirty-ninth page of the ninth volume of 
 'American Ornithology,' I found in it the following para- 
 graph : — 
 
 " ' ilarch 23, 1810. — I bade adieu to Louisville, to which 
 place I had four letters of recommendation, and was taught to 
 expect much of everything there ; but neither received one act 
 of civility from those to whom I was recommended, one sub- 
 scriber, nor one new bird; though I delivered my letters, 
 ransacked the woods repeatedly, and visited all the characters 
 likely to subscribe. Science or literature has not one friend in 
 this place.' " 
 
 The contrast between the chivalric conduct of Audubon and 
 Wilson's narrow spirit are here very marked ; but it has to be 
 borne in mind that, while Audubon was a polished and well- 
 educated French gentleman, Wilson was a poor weaver, educated 
 by the aid of his own industry, and suflering from the many 
 blights that had fallen upon his class in a land where the 
 iimenities of civilization had not done much to soften the 
 manners of the working classes. Further, this and many other 
 incidents related by Audubon himself must be taken cum grano 
 
VANITY OF AUDUBON. 
 
 23 
 
 scdis. If Audubon had one marked fault, it was vanity ; he was 
 a queer compound of ActcDon and Narcissus — holding a gun in 
 one hand and flourishing a looking-glass in the other. It was 
 little not to siibscribe to Wilson's book, and it naturally awakened 
 suspicion. Like all rain men, the Frenchman was not unsel- 
 fish, as the reader will doubtless discover for himself in the 
 sequel. 
 
 ;! 5 il 
 
M 
 
 MKK OK AUnUMON. 
 
 CHAPTER Vir. 
 
 Return of Mrs. Audubon to her Father's House — Audupon and Rosier 
 MOVE TO Hendkrsonville — HusiNKSs Unremunerative— Dktkrmink 
 TO TRY St. Gexevii^vk. on the Mississippi — Sail uown the Ohio and 
 
 DELAY AT CasH CrEEK— CaMP OF SlIAWNFt: InDIANH — WlI.U SWAN 
 
 Shooting with Indians— A Hear Hunt, and Valiant Indian — 
 TowiNO UP the Mississippi — Boat Frozen in — Meetincj with Osaqe 
 Indians — Desperate Effort to Rescue the Boat from Ice — Arrival 
 
 AT St. GENEVli;VE. 
 
 At Louisville it was discovered that business was suffering 
 from over-competition, and no further time was to be lost in 
 transferring the stock to Hendersonville. Belbre leaving Louis- 
 ville to take up his residence at Hendersonville, fai-ther down 
 the Ohio river, Audubon took his wife and young a^n back 
 to her father's house at Fatland Ford, where they resided for a 
 year. 
 
 Audubon and his partner Kosier arranged their migration 
 with the remaining stock, and entered upon their voyage of 
 one hundred and twenty miles down the Ohio to Henderson- 
 ville. Arriving at this place, they found the neighbourhood 
 thinly inhabited, and the demand for goods almost limited to 
 the coarsest material. The merchants were driven to live upon 
 the produce of their guns and fishing-rods. 
 
 The clerk employed for the firm had even to assist in supply- 
 ing the table, and while he did so Rosier attended to the 
 business. The profits on any business done was enormous, but 
 the sales were so trifling that another change was determined 
 oii Tt was proposed that the stock in hand should be removed 
 
 l! 
 
V()YA(JR TO ST. GKNKVlf:Vi;. 
 
 96 
 
 |t() St. Geiievusve, ii Hettloincnt on tho Mississippi river, and 
 Iniitil it was ascertuitmd how tliu tMitorjH'iso wonid prosper, 
 iMrs. Audubon should bo left at Hendcrsonville, with tho family 
 lot' Dr. Parkin, who resided in tho immediate neighbourhood. Of 
 Itlio adventurous voyage to 8t. (lonovieve, Audubon gives this 
 L'ruphic aceount : — 
 
 " J'uttiiig our goods, which (ronHJHted of three hundred barrels 
 lof whisky, sundry dry goods, and p()wi](>r, on board a keel-boat, 
 Iiiiy partn(!r, my clerk, and self departed in a severe snow-storm. 
 The boat was new, staunch, and well trimmed, and had a cabin 
 in her bow. A long steering oar, made of tho trunk of a slender 
 tree, about sixty feet in length, and shai)ed at its outer extremity 
 like the fin of a dol[)hin, h('l|)ed to steer tho boat, while tho 
 four oars i'rom tlie bow imi)elled her along, when going with 
 I tho current, about five miles an hour. 
 
 "Tho storm we set out in continued, and soon covered tho 
 [ground with a wintry sheet. Our first night on board was dismal 
 iiulocd, but the dawn brought us o[)po8ito the mouth of tho 
 I Cumberland Kiver. It was evident that tho severe cold had 
 frozen all tho neighbouring lijkes and Ingoons, because thousands 
 lot' wild water-fowl were flying to tho river, and settling them- 
 selves on its borders. We permitted our boat to drift past, and 
 amused oursidves by firing into flocks of birds. 
 
 " The third day we entered Cash Creek, a very small stream, 
 I l>iit having deep water and a good harbour. Here I met Count 
 Uemun, who was also in a boat like ours, and bound also for 
 St. Genevieve. Here we learned that th(! IMississippi was covered 
 with floating ice of a thickness dangerous to tho safety of 
 our craft, and indeed that it was impossible to ascend the river 
 I against it. 
 
 "The creek was full of water, was crowded with wild birds, 
 [and was plentifully supplied with fish. Tlie large sycamores, 
 and the bare branches of the trees that fringed the creek, were 
 favourite resorts of paroquets, which came at night to roost in 
 their hollow trunks. An agreeable circumstance was an encamp- 
 ment of about fifty families of Shawnee Indians, attracted to the . 
 I spot by the mast of the forest, which brought together herds of 
 [ (leer, and many bears and racoons. 
 
 " Mr. Rosier, whose only desire was to reach the destination 
 
 ill 
 
 t. r 
 
 Hb I 
 
 I r 
 
 f 
 
 .IKl 
 
20 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 aiul resume trade, was seized witli melancholy at the prosper 
 occasioned by the delay. He brooded in silence over a mishap 
 which had given me great occasion for rejoicing." 
 
 A narrative of Audubon's stay at Cash Creeic, and perilous j 
 journey up the ]\[ississippi, is picturesquely given in his journal, 
 and from which the following is extracted : — 
 
 " The second morning after our arrival at Cash Creek, while | 
 I was straining my e^'es to discover whether it was fairly day 
 dawn or no, I heard a movement in the Indian camp, and I 
 discovered that a canoe, with half a dozen squaws and as many 
 hunters, was about leaving for Tennessee. T had heard that 
 there was a large lake opposite to us, where immense flocks of 
 swans resorted every morning, and asking permission to join [ 
 them, I seated myself on my haunches in t'\e canoe, well pro- 
 vided with ammunition and a bottle of whisky, and in a few 
 minutes the paddles were at work, swiftly propelling us to tli' 
 opposite shore. I was not much surprised to see the boat 
 paddled by the squaws, but 1 was quite so to see the hunters 
 stretch themselves out and go to sleep. On landing, the squaws 
 took charge of the canoe, secured i],, and went in search of nuts, 
 while we gentlemen hunters made the best of our way through 
 thick and thin to the lake. Its muddy shores were overgrown 
 with a close growth of cotton trees, too large to be pushed 
 aside, and too thick to pass through except l)y squeezing yom- 
 self at every few steps ; and to add to the difficulty, every few 
 rode we came to small nasty lagoons, which one must jump, 
 leap, or swim, and this not without peril of broken limbs or 
 drowning. 
 
 " But when the lake burst on our view there were the swans 
 by hundreds, and white as rich creani, either di[)ping their 
 black bills in the water, or stretching out one leg on its surface, 
 or gently floating along. According to the Indian mode of 
 hunting, we had divided, and approached the lagoon from 
 different sides. The moment our vidette was seen, it seemed as 
 I ' liiousands of large, fat, and heavy swans were startled, and as 
 they made away from him they drew towards the ambush of 
 death ; for the trees had hunters behind them, whose touch of the 
 trigger would carry destruction among them. As the first party 
 fired, the game rose and Hew within easy distance of the party 
 
CAMPING AT CASH CHEEK. 
 
 27 
 
 ou tho opposite side, when they again fired, and I saw the water 
 covered with birds floating with their backs downwards, and 
 their heads sunk in the water, and tlieir legs kicking in the 
 air. When the sport was over we counted more than fifty of 
 I these beautiful birds, whose skins were intended for the ladies 
 in Europe. There were plenty of geese and ducks, but no one 
 [ condescended to give them a shot. A conch was sounded, and 
 I after a while the squaws came dragging the canoe, and collect- 
 ing tho dead game, which was taken to the river's edge, fastened 
 jto the canoe, and before dusk we were again landed at our 
 [ camping ground. I had heard of sportsmen in England who 
 ^^alked a whole day, and after firing a pound of powder returned 
 in great glee, bringing one partridge ; and I could not help 
 wondering what they would think of the spoil wj were bearing 
 from Swan Lake ? 
 
 " The fires wore soon lighted, and a soup of pecan nuts and 
 b'ar fat made and oaten. The hunters stretched themselves with 
 their feet close to tho camp-fires, intended to burn all night. 
 Tlie squaws then began to skin the birds, and I retired, very 
 well satisfied with my Christinas sport. 
 
 " When I awoke in the morning and made my rounds through 
 the camp, I found a squaw had been delivered of beautiful twins 
 (luring the night, and I saw the same squaw at work tanning 
 deer-skins. She had cut two vinos at the roots of opposite trees 
 and made a cradle of bark, in which the new-born ones were 
 wafted to and fro with a push of her hand, while from time to 
 time she gave them the breast, and was apparently as uncon- 
 cerned as if the event had not taken place. 
 
 " An Indian camp on a hunting expedition is by no means a 
 phice of idleness, and although the men do little more than 
 hunt, they perform their task with an industry which borders 
 on enthusiasm. I was invited by three hunters to a bear-hunt. 
 A tall, robust, well-shapod fellow, assured mo that we should 
 luive some sport that day, for he Jiad discovered the haunt of 
 one of large size, and he wanted to meet him face to face ; and 
 we four started to see how he would fulfil his boast. About half 
 a mile from the camp he said he perceived his tracks, though I 
 could see nothing ; and wo rambled on through the cane brake 
 until we camo to an immense dccaved log, in which ho swore 
 
 r 
 
 (5 
 
28 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 the bear was. I saw his eye sparkle with joy, his rusty blanket 
 was thrown off liis shoulders, his brawny arms swelled with 
 blood, as he drew his scalping-knife from his belt with a flourisli 
 which showed that figliting was his delight. He told me tu 
 mount a small sapling, because a bear cannot climb one, while 
 it can go up a large tree with the nimbleness of a squirrel. The 
 two other Indians seated themselves at the entrance, and the 
 hero went in boldly. All was silent for a few moments, when 
 he came out and said the bear was dead, and I might conie 
 down. The Indians cut a long vine, went into the hollow tree, 
 fastened it to the animal, and with their united force dragged it 
 out. I really thought that this was an exploit. 
 
 "Since then I have seen many Indian ex])loits, which proved 
 to me their heroism. In Europe or America the white hnntor 
 would have taken his game home and tullced about it for week^;, 
 but these simple people only took olf the animal's skin, hung 
 the flesh in quarters on tlie trees, and continued their hunt. 
 Unable to follow them, I returned to the camp, accom})anied by 
 one Indian, wlio broke the twigs of the bushes we passed, and 
 sent back two squaws on the track, who brought the flesh and 
 skin of the bear to the camp. 
 
 " At length the nuts were nearly all gathered, and the game 
 grew scarce, and the hunters remained most of the day in camp; 
 and they soon made up their ]ia('ks, broke up their abodes, put 
 all on board their canoes, and paddled oft" down the Mississippi 
 for the little prairie on the Arkansas. 
 
 " Their example made a stir among the whites, and my impa- 
 tient partner begged me to cross the bend and see if the ice wa^ 
 yet too solid for us to ascend the river. Accordingly, accompanied 
 by two of the crew, I made my way to the Slississippi. The 
 weather was milder, and the ice so sunk as to be scarcely per- 
 ceptible, and I pushed up the shore to a point opposite Ca})t^ 
 Girardeau. We hailed the people on the opposite bank, and a 
 robust yellow man came across, named Loume. He stated that 
 he was a son of the Spanish governor of Louisiana, and a good 
 pilot on the river, and would take our boat up provided we had 
 four good hands, as he liad six. A l)argain was soon struck ; 
 their canoe hauled into the woods, some blazes struck on the 
 trees, and all started for Cash Creek. 
 
VDYAUK UP THE MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 29 
 
 " The night was spent iii making tugs of hides and shavinj^ oars, 
 and at dayliglit we left the Creek, glad to be afloat once more 
 in broader water. Going down the stream to the mouth of the 
 Ohio was fine sport ; indeed, my partner considered the worst 
 of the journey ovi^r ; but, alas ! when we turned the point, and 
 met the mighty rush of the Mississippi, running three miles an 
 hour, and bringing shoals of ice to further impede our progress, 
 he looked on despairingly. The patrom ordered the lines 
 ashore, and it becume the duty of every man *to haul the 
 Cordelia,' which was a rope fastened to the bow of the boat ; 
 and one man being loft on board to steer, the others, laying the 
 rope over, their shoulders, slowly warped the heavy boat and 
 cargo against the current. We made seven miles that day up 
 the famous river. But while I was tugging with my back at 
 the Cordelia, I kept my eyes fixed on the forests or the ground, 
 looking for birds and curious shells. At night we camped on the 
 shores. Here we made fires, cooked supper, and sotting one 
 sentinel, the rest went to bed and slept like men who had done 
 one good day's work. I slept myself as unconcerned as if I had 
 been in my own father's house. 
 
 " The next day I was up early, and roused my partner two 
 hours beibre sunrise, and we began to move the boat at about 
 one mile an hour against the current. We had a sail on l)oard, 
 but the wind was ahead, and we made ten miles that day. We 
 made our fires, and I lay down to sleep again in my buffalo 
 robes. Two more days of similar toil followed, when the weather 
 became severe, and our patroni ordered us to go into winter 
 quarters, in the great bend of the Tawapatee Bottom. 
 
 "The sorrows of my })artner at this dismal event were too 
 great to be described. Wrapped in his blanket, like a squirrel 
 in winter quarters with his tail about his nose, he slept and 
 dreamed away his time, being seldom seen except at meals. 
 
 " There was not a white man's cabin within twenty miles, and 
 that over a river we could not cross. We cut down trees and 
 made a winter camp. But a new field was opened to me, and I 
 rambled through the deep forests, and soon became acquainted 
 with the Indian trails and the lakes in the neighbourhood. 
 
 'J'he Indians have the instinct or sagacity to discover an en- 
 campment of white men almost as quickly as vultures sight the 
 
 I 1 
 
 r 
 
30 
 
 LIFE OF AIjDUBON. 
 
 carcass of a dead animal ; and I was not lonq; in meeting strol- 
 ling natives in the woods. They gradually accumulated, and 
 before a week had i)assed great numbers of these unfortunate 
 beings were around us, cliiefly Osages and Shawnees. The 
 former were well-formed, athletic, and robust men, of a noble 
 aspect, and kept aloof from the others. They hunted nothing 
 but large game, and the few elks and buffaloes that remained in 
 the country. The latter had been more in contact with the 
 wiiites, were much inferior, and killed opossums and wild tur- 
 keys for a subsistence. The Osages being a new race to me, I 
 went often to their camp, to study their character and habits ; 
 but found much difficulty in becoming acquainted with them. 
 They spoke no French, and only a few words of English, aiul 
 their general demeanour proved them to be a nobler race. Yet 
 they were delighted to see me draw, and when I made a tolerable 
 likeness of one of them with red chalk, they cried out with 
 astonishment, and laughed excessively. They stood the cold 
 much better than tlie Shawnees, and were much more expert 
 with bows and arrows. 
 
 *' The bones we threw around our camp attracted many 
 wolves, and afforded us much sport in hunting them. Here I 
 passed six weeks pleasantly, investigating the habits of wild 
 deer, bears, cougars, racoons, and turkeys, and many other 
 animals, and I drew more or less by the side of our great camp- 
 fire every day ; and no one can have on idea of what a 
 good fire is who has nev^r seen a camp-fire in the woods of 
 America. Imagine four or five ash-trees, three feet in diameter 
 and sixty feet long, cut and piled up, with all their limbs and 
 branches, ten feet high, and then a fire kindled on the top with 
 brush and dry leaves; and then under tlie smoke the party lu's 
 down and goes to sleep. 
 
 " Here our bread gave out ; and after using the breast of wild 
 turkeys for bread, and bear's grease for butter, and eating 
 opossum and bear's meat until our stomachs revolted, it was 
 decided that a Kentuckiau named Pope, our clerk, and a good 
 woodsman, should go with me to the nearest settlement and try 
 and bring some Indian meal. On the way we saw a herd of 
 deer, and turned aside to shoot one ; and having done so, and 
 marked the place, wo continued our journey. AVe walked 
 
LIFE IN THE WOODS. 
 
 31 
 
 until dusk, and no river appeared. Just then I noticed 
 [an Indian trail, which we supposed led to the river; and 
 after following it a short distance, entered the camp we had 
 left in the morning. My partrier, finding that we had no 
 wheaten loaves in our hands, and no bags of meal on our backs, 
 said we were boobies ; the boatmen laughed, the Indians joined 
 the chorus, and we ate some cold racoon, and stumbled into our 
 buffalo robes, and were soon enjoying our sleep. 
 
 " The next day we tried it again, going directly acro' ' the bend, 
 suffering neither the flocks of turkeys nor the droves of deer we 
 saw to turn us aside until we had Cape Girardeau in full siglit 
 an hour before the setting of the sun. The ice was running 
 swiftly in the river, and we hailed in vain, for no small boat 
 dare put out. An old abandoned log-house stood on our bank, 
 and we took lodgings there for the night ; we made a little fire, 
 ate a little dried bear's meat we had brought, and slept com- 
 fortably. 
 
 " What a different life from the one I am leadi'^^ now ; and that 
 night I wrote in my jourral exactly as I do now , and I recollect 
 vtiU that I gathered more information that evening respecting 
 the roasting of prairie-hens than I had ever done before or 
 since. Dayliglit I'eturned fair and frosty, the trees covered with 
 snow and icicles, shining like jewels as the sun rose on them ; 
 and the wild turkeys seemed so dazzled by their brilliancy, that 
 they allowed us to pass under them without flying. 
 
 " After a time we saw a canoe picking its way through the 
 running ice. Through the messenger who came in the boat we 
 obtained, after waiting nearly all day, a barrel of flour, several 
 bags of Indian meal, and a few loaves of bread. Having rolled 
 the flour to a safe place, slung the meal in a tree, and thrust 
 our gun barrels through the loaves of bread, we started for our 
 camp, and readied it not long after midnight. Four men were 
 sent the next mornimr with axes to make a sledge, and drag the 
 provisions over the snow to the camp. 
 
 "The river, which had been constantly slowly rising, now 
 began to fall, and prepared new troubles for us ; for as tlie water 
 fell the ice clung to the shore, and we were forced to keep the 
 boat afloat to unload the cargo. This, with the help of all the 
 Indian men and women, took two days. We then cut large 
 
 
 ie 
 
 r 
 
32 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 trees, and fastened them to the shore above the boat, so as to 
 secure it from the ice which was accumulating, and to save the 
 boat from being cut by it. We were now indeed in winter 
 quai'ters, and we made the best of t. The Indians made 
 basKets of cane, Mr. Pope played on the violin, I accompanied 
 with the ^ute, the men danced to the tunes, and the squaws 
 looked on and laughed, and the hunter? smoked their pipes with 
 such serenity as only Indians can, and I never regretted one 
 day spent there. 
 
 " While our time went pleasantly enough, a sudden and 
 startling catastrophe threatened us without warning. The ice 
 began to break, and our boat was in instant danger of being cut 
 to pieces by the ice-floes, or swamped by their pressure. Koused 
 from our sleep, we rushed down pell-mell to the bank, as if 
 attacked by savages, and discovered the ice was breaking up 
 rapidly. It split with reports like those of heavy artillery ; and 
 as the water had suddenly risen from an overflow of the Ohio, 
 the two streams seemed to rush against each other with violence, 
 in consequence of which the congealed mass was broken into 
 large fragments, some of wliich rose nearly erect here and 
 there, and again fell with thundering crash, as the wounded 
 whale, when in the agonies of death, springs up with furious 
 force, and again plunges into the foaming waters. To our 
 surprise, the weather, which in the evening had been calm and 
 frosty, had become wet and blowy. The water gushed from 
 the fissures formed in tho ice, and the prospect was extremely 
 dismal. When day dawned, a spectacle strange and fearful 
 presented itself: the whole mass of water was violently agitated ; 
 its covering was broken into small fragments, and although not 
 a foot of space was without ice, not a step could the most daring 
 have ventured to make upon it. Our boat was in imminent 
 danger, for the trees which had been placed to guard it from 
 the ice were cut or broken into pieces, and were thrust against 
 her. it was impossible to move her; but our pilot ordered 
 every man to bring down great bunches of cane, which were 
 lashed along her sides ; and before these were destroyed by the 
 ice, sh'j was afloat, and riding above it. While we were gazing 
 on ♦ e scene, a tremendous crash was heard, which seemed to 
 have taken place about a mile below, wlien suddenly the great 
 
 (lara of ice 
 iis way ag<^ 
 we witness! 
 " During 
 might vent 
 camp givei] 
 when brot] 
 dangerous 
 and against 
 extremely 
 frequently | 
 should be 
 and we rea 
 "But tl 
 determinet 
 motion bet 
 grand towe 
 navigation 
 great diffic 
 famous tow 
 have niime< 
 weather cc 
 St. Genevii 
 was especif 
 a giillon fo 
 old I'rencl 
 dirty, and 
 as with th( 
 the Fren( 
 Rocky Mo 
 to learn 
 journey." 
 
AimiVAL AT ST. GExSEVIKVE. 
 
 33 
 
 (lam of ice gave way. Tlie current of the Mississippi had forced 
 hs way against that of tlie Ohio ; and in less than four hours 
 we witnessed the conijilete breaking up of the ice. 
 
 " During lliat winter the ice was so thick, the patrom said we 
 might venture to start. Tlie cargo was soon on board, and the 
 camp given up to the Indians, after bidding mutual adieus, as 
 when brotJiers part. The navigation was now of the most 
 dangerous kind ; the boat was pushed by long poles on the ice, 
 and against the boitoin when it could be touched, and we moved 
 extremely slowly. 'Jlie ice was higher than our heads, and I 
 frequently thought, that if a sudden thaw should take place we 
 should be in great peril ; but fortunately all this was escaped, 
 and we reached safely the famous cape. 
 
 " But the village was small, and no market for us, and we 
 determined to push up to St. Genevieve, and once more were in 
 motion between the ice. We arrived in a few days at the 
 grand tower, where an immense rock in the stream makes the 
 navigation dangerous. Here we used our cordellas, and with 
 great difficulty and peril passed it safely. It was near this 
 famous tower of granite that I first saw the great eagle that I 
 have named after our good and great General Washington. The 
 weather continued favourable, and we arrived in safety at 
 St. Genevieve, and found a favourable market. Our whisky 
 was especially welcome, and what we had paid twenty-five cents 
 a gallon for, brought us two dollars. St. Genevieve was then an 
 old l^^rench town, twenty miles below St. Louis, not so large as 
 dirty, and I was not half so pleased with the time spent there 
 as with that spent in the Tawapatee Bottom. Here I met with 
 the Frenchman who accompanied Lewis and Clark to the 
 Rocky Mountains. They had just returned, and I was delighted 
 to learn from them many particulars of their interesting 
 joui-ney." 
 
 ! :• 
 
 r 
 It 
 
 9 
 
34 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 AUDUnON FIKDS St. CiEKEVlKVEUNSUITAni.E — PiETUIlN JOURNEV TO HENPEn- 
 
 soNvii.LE — 'I'erriule Adventuue on the Prairie — Narrow Escape 
 FROM Assassination — Iiegulator Law in the Wkst — The Shooting 
 OF JL\80N — Lynching a Pogue — Earthquakes in Kentucky — A Teh- 
 niFiED Horse— A Marriage Party in a Plight— A Frantic Doctor. 
 
 Audubon soon dis(,'overed that St. Genevieve was no pleasant 
 place to live in. Its popnlation were mostly low-bred French 
 Canadians, for whose company, notwithstanding certain national 
 sympathies, he had no liking. He wearied to be back at 
 Hendersonvillo beside his yonng wife. Hosier got married at St. 
 Genevieve, and to him Audubon sold his interest in the business. 
 The naturalist purchased a horse, bade adieu to his partner, 
 to the society of St. Genevieve, and started homeward across the 
 country. During this journey Audubon met with a terrible ad- 
 venture, and made a miraculous escape from impending death. 
 This episode in Audubon's life is related by him in the following 
 words : — 
 
 " On my return from the upper Mississippi, I found myself 
 obliged to cross one of the wide prairies, which, in that portion 
 of the United States, vary the appearance of the country. The 
 weather was fine, all around me was as fresh and blooming as if 
 it had just issued from the bosom of nature. ]\Iy ki ipspok, my 
 gun, and my dog, were all I had for baggage anc company. 
 But, although well moccasined, I moved slowly along, attracted 
 by the brilliancy of the flowers, and the gambols of the fawns 
 around their dams, to all appearance as thoughtless of danger 
 as I felt mvself. 
 
Ti:UIUBLE ADVENTURK. 
 
 srt 
 
 !)■ 
 
 " Jly niarf'h was of Idnj* duration. I saw the sun sinking 
 I)f!npatli tlio horizon long before I could perceive any appcar- 
 iince of woodlands, and nothing in the .shape of man had I met 
 with tliat day. The track which I followed was only an old 
 Indian trail, and as darknesg overshadowed the prairie, I felt 
 some desire to reach at least a cojise, in which I might lie down 
 to rest. The night-hawks were skimming over and around me, 
 attracted by tlie buzzing wings of the beetles which form their 
 food, and the distn howling of the wolves gave mo some h<ipe 
 that I should so( arrive at the skirts of some woodland. 
 
 "I did so, and almost at the same instant a fire-light attract- 
 ing my eye, I moved towards it, full of confidence that it 
 proceeded from the camp of some wandering Indians. I was 
 mistaken. I discovered by its glare that it was from the hearth 
 of a small log cabin, and that a tall figure passed and repassed 
 between it and me, as if busily engaged in houseliold arrange- 
 ments. 
 
 " 1 reached the spot, and presenting )nyself at the door, 
 asked the tall figure, which proved to be a woman, if I might 
 take shelter nnder her roof for the night ? Her voice was grufl', 
 and her dress negligently thrown about her. She answered in 
 the affirmative. I walked in, took a wooden stool, and quietly 
 seated myself by the fire. The next object that attracted my 
 notice was a finely-formed young Indian, resting his head 
 between his hands, with his elbows on his knees. A long bow 
 rested against the log wall near him, while a quantity of arrows 
 and two or three racoon skins lay at his feet. He moved not ; 
 he apparently breathed not. Accustomed to the habits of the 
 Indians, and knowing that they pay little attention to the 
 approach of civilized strangers, I addressed him '"n French, a 
 language not unfrequently partially known to the people of 
 that neighbourhood. He raised liis head, pointed to one of his 
 eyes with his finger, and gave me a significant glance with the 
 other ; his face was covered with blood. 
 
 " The fact was, that an hour before this, as he was in the act 
 of discharging an arrow at a racoon in the top of a tree, the 
 arrow had split upon the cord, and sprung back with such 
 violence into his right eye as to destroy it for ever. 
 
 "Feelii)' hungry, I inquired what sort of fare I might expect. 
 
 1) 2 
 
 r 
 
 n 
 
 (5 
 
30 
 
 MFK (IF AUnnnoN. 
 
 iSut'h a thing iih u I»c(1 was not to lio seen, but many lurp;!' 
 initanncd bear and ItulVuIo hides hiy jmIciI in a t'onuM*. I drewii 
 linio-pioeo from my pockot, and told th(5 woman that it was 
 hite, and that I was fatif^ncd. I^h(* (>spied my watch, tho 
 richness of which seemed to ojuM-ate on her i'eelings witli 
 electric quickness. She told me lliere was plenty of venison 
 and ji'rked buffalo meat, and (hat on removin;^ the ashes I 
 should (ind a cake. Jhit my walch had struck her fancy, and 
 her curiosity had to be <;ratilied by an immediate sight of it. 
 I took otV the gold chain which secured it around my neck, and 
 presented it to her. She was all ecstasy, spoke of its beauty, 
 asked me its value, and put the chain round her brawny neck, 
 paying how happy tlu^ possession of such a watch would make 
 lier. Thoughtli'ss, and, as 1 fancied myself, in so retired a spot, 
 secure, I paid little attention to her talk or her movements. I 
 heli)ed my dog to a good 8upp(M* of vcMiison, and was not long in 
 satisfying the denands of my own npi)etite. 
 
 " Tho Indian rose from his scat as if in extreme suffm-ing. Ho 
 passed and repassed mo several times, and once pinched me on 
 tho side so violently, that the pain nearly brought forth an 
 exclamation of anger. I looked at him, his eye met mine, but 
 his look was so forbidding, that it struck a chill into the more 
 nervous part of my system. He again seated himself, drew his 
 butcher-knife from its greasy scabbard, examined its edge, as I 
 would do that of a razor suspected dull, replaced it, and again 
 taking his tomahawk from his back, tilled the pipe of it with 
 tobacco, and sent me expressive glances whenever our hostess 
 chanced to have her back towards us. 
 
 " Never until that moment had my senses been awakened to 
 the danger which I now suspected to be about mo. I returned 
 glance for glance to my companion, and rested well assured 
 that whatever enemies I might have, he was not of their 
 number. 
 
 " I asked the woman for my watch, wound it up, and under 
 pretence of wishing to see how the weather might probably 
 be on the morrow, took up my gun, and walked out of the 
 cabin. I slipped a ball into each barrel, scraped the edges of my 
 flints, renewed the primings, and returning to tho hut, gave a 
 favourable account of my observations. 1 took u few bear-skins, 
 
 made a 
 
 lay dowil 
 
 was to all 
 
 " A sll 
 
 and froni 
 makini 
 disiHKSed 
 solves fri 
 tli(7 asld 
 the India! 
 in the hoi 
 speak les 
 to a col' 
 which it 
 
 my <li'g 
 pleasure 
 towards t 
 in my sit 
 me. 
 
 "Theli 
 that 1 al 
 frequent 
 <lam, I hi 
 my aston 
 carving-k 
 saw her 
 her worl< 
 cold swci 
 determin 
 she wall< 
 settle hiu 
 
 " I tur 
 c()mpaui( 
 might a 
 and that 
 Providen 
 infernal 
 best way 
 with tho 
 
NAUIIOW KSCArK FROM ASSASSINATION. 
 
 ;J7 
 
 niado a luillct (»!' thoin, mid williiifi; my taitlilul do^jf to my side, 
 liiy down, w itli my ^iiii closn to my body, and in a low miniilcH 
 was to all a|))))>aran(;(; last aslooi). 
 
 " A sliort timo had elapsed wlion some voices wore heard, 
 and from thu corner of my eyes 1 savv two aUdetic youths 
 iiiakin;^ their entranee, bearinj^ a (hiad stajij on a pole. They 
 (lisjinsed of their hiinhsn, and asking for whisky, Ixdped tlicMn- 
 s(!!v(!S freely to it. Observing mo and tlu; woundcid Indiiin, 
 tlitfy asked who 1 was, and why the de'vil that rascal (meaninj^ 
 the Indian, who, tlusy know, understood not a \/ord of J'^iif^'lish) was 
 in the house? The mother, for so sluj proved to be, budo them 
 speak less loudly, maile mention of my watch, and took them 
 to a corner, where a conversation took place, the purport of 
 which it re(juired little shrewdness in me to guess. 1 tapi)e(l 
 my dog gently, he moved his tail, and with indescribablo 
 pleasure 1 saw his line eyes alternately fixed on nie and raised 
 towards the trio in the corner. 1 felt that he [)erceived danger 
 ill my situation. The Indian exchanged the last •glance with 
 me. 
 
 "The lads had oaten and drunk themselves into such condition 
 that 1 already looked ui)oii them as hors de combat; and the 
 frequent visits of the whisky bottle to the ugly mouth of their 
 dam, I hoped would soon nuluee her to a like state. Judge of 
 luy astonishment wIksii I saw this incarnate lieiid take a large 
 carving-knife, and go to the grindstone to whet its edge. 1 
 saw her pour the water on the turning machine, and watched 
 her working away with the dangerous instrument, until the 
 cold sweat covered every part of my body, in despite of my 
 determination to defend myself to the last. Her task iiiiished, 
 she walkcul to her reeling sons, and said, ' Tliere, that'll soon 
 settle him! Boys, kill yon , and then for the watch !' 
 
 " I turned, cocked my gun-lo(rks sihiiitly, touched my faithful 
 companion, and lay ready to start up aiul shoot the first who 
 might attempt my life. The raojnent was fast a])proaching, 
 and that night might have been my last in this world, had not 
 Providence made provision for my rescue. All was ready. 'Vho 
 infernal hag was advancing slowly, probably contemplating the 
 best way of despatching me whilst her sons should be engaged 
 with the Indian, i was several times on the eve of rising, and 
 
 r 
 
as 
 
 MI''I'; OK A i; 1)11 HON. 
 
 Hhootiiifj; licr on i\u) spot, Imt slu^ was not fo be ininirthod tliUH. 
 Tli(i (!oor wiiM suddenly opened, nnd tlier(> entered t\V(> stout 
 travellers, eiieli with ii lonjj; rille on his shoulder. I houneed 
 up on my I'eot, and inakin<i; them most heartily \voleom(>, told 
 them how well it was lor nie that they should have arrived at 
 that moment. Tho talo was told in a ndnnto. Thu drunken 
 sons were secured, and the woman, in spile ol" her delenco and 
 vociferations, shared tlu' same i'ale. The Indian lairly danced 
 with joy, and gavo us to iniderstand that, us ho could ncjt sleep 
 for pain, ho would watch over ns. You may suppose we slept 
 much less than wo talked. Tho two strangers gavo mo an 
 ncconnt of their once having boon themselves in ii sindlar 
 situation. Day came; fair und rosy, and with it tho punishment 
 of our captives. 
 
 "They were quite sobered. Their feet were unbound, but 
 their arms were still securely tied. Wo nnirched tlunn into tho 
 woods oil" tho road, and having used them as Kegulutors were 
 wont to use such delinquents, wo set lire to tho cabin, gave all 
 tho skins and imphsinents to tho y<mng Indian warrior, and 
 proceeded, well pleased, towards tho settlements." 
 
 At the period at which this incident occurred " Uegulutor 
 Law " was the high tribiuial in the Western States. A savage 
 and outcast population fringed the settled territories, and 
 among these the most dastardly crimes were current. " Regu- 
 lator Law " was administered by a body of American citizens, 
 and was akin to a Vigilance Committee in its self-assumed 
 functions. The punishment of felons, who could defy or were 
 likely to escape the law of tho land, was the special duty of the 
 Regulatoi-s, and the name acquired a terrible significance in tho 
 western wilds. Audubon relati\s that a notorious freebooter, 
 named i\Iuson, frequented Wolf's Island in the IMississippi, and 
 with a gang of marauders j»layed pirate with impunity in that 
 river. He stripped the laden barges of all the valuables, stole 
 horses, and ])roved himself to bo beyond the reach of the law. 
 A party of IJegulators descended the river, but failed toiind him. 
 Finally, he was shot through the ready wit of one man. This 
 Regulator met the ruffian in the forest, and, unsuspected, turned 
 after him and dogged his stc})S, JIason retired to a quiet dell, 
 hobbled his horse to prevent itesca])iiig, and crept into a hollow 
 
 tree. THI 
 und retni| 
 und his 
 otlusrs fro| 
 l»y these 
 tli(( evild 
 passed njJ 
 "Tho c| 
 nettles \v| 
 slrijiped, 
 hurt, he 
 anil was i 
 In No> 
 tjonvillc, 
 Jolm Wo 
 become c 
 and were 
 drawing I 
 A few 
 west(;rn s 
 Mississipi 
 the m(mt 
 horsobacl 
 rumbling 
 spurred i 
 the plac( 
 better th 
 so uearl; 
 another i 
 on a smci 
 and, spc 
 lea'.' "ng 1 
 hung iu 
 from fa 
 thought 
 his back 
 shrubs 
 ground i 
 of a laki 
 
SIKK'K OK AN r.AltTIKMTAKi;. 
 
 80 
 
 tree. THo llopiliitor w<'iit ofT foruHsiHtiiiu'o to tlu^ iicun'st plftoo, 
 iiiid nifuniirif; with iiriiicd men, tlio jdmnlcror wuh Hliot down, 
 iiiid liin Hovcrcid liniid was Htudc mi a polo Imrd hy, to dctor 
 ntlKtrs from foilowiiifif tlio hiuiio lil'o. Tlio pinuHlimont (uljndgcfl 
 l»y thcso Kcfijidiitors win iiirrcirully nijporlionod to Uw orimoH of 
 |li(' fsvildocrs; but Audubon rcliit(;s a nitlK.-r sovoro Hcutoiico 
 |iiisH('d upon oiu) who was ncithcM" thief nor rnnnhM'cr. 
 
 " Tho culprit," says Audulion, " wjih taken to a placo wheru 
 nettles woro Icnowti to grow in jijroat ul»undunco, (;omplet(dy 
 stripped, and so IiisIkhI with tli((m, that althou<rIi not materially 
 hurt, ho took it as a hint not to ho negloeted, loft the country, 
 and was never a;jjiiin heard of by any of tho ])arty c'onc(!rn(Ml." 
 
 In Nov(!nd)er, 1812, soon after his father's return to Ihuider- 
 sonvillo, Audubon's seeond son, John Woodhouso, was born. 
 John Woodhouso and his only brotla^r, Victor, woro destined to 
 heconio companions of th(;ir father in his huntin;.^ expeditions, 
 and woro afterwards able to assist materially in cyllec;,ng and 
 drawing birds for tla; great work. 
 
 A few weeks after Audubon's return to ^londei. avillo, tho 
 western section of tho state of Kentucky and tho bank's of tho 
 I\liHsi8sippi sufl'orod from a very severe shock of earthquake. In 
 tho month of November, tho naturalist was riding along on 
 horsebacjk, wiieii ho heard what he imagined to be tho distant 
 rumbling of a violent tornado. " On whi(rh," says he, *' I 
 spurred my steed, with a wish to gallop as fast as possible to 
 tho place of shelter. But it would not do ; the animal knew 
 better than I what was forthcoming, and instead of going faster, 
 so nearly stopjted, that I remarked he placed one foot after 
 another on the ground with as much i)recaution as if walking 
 on a smooth sheet of ice. 1 thought he had suddenly foundered, 
 and, speaking to him, was on tho point of dismounting and 
 lear'ng him, when he all of a sudden f(;ll a groaning jateously, 
 hung Ids bead, spread out his four legs, as if to save himself 
 from falling, and stood stock still, continuing to groan. I 
 thought my horse was about to die, and would have sprung from 
 his back had a minute more elapsed ; but at that instant all tho 
 shrubs and trees began to move from their very roots, the 
 ground rose and fell in successive furrows, like the milled waters 
 of a lake, and I became bewildered in my ideas, as I too plaiidy 
 
 r 
 
40 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 discovered that all this awful commotion in nature was the 
 result of an earthquake. 
 
 " I had never witnessed anything of the kind before, althongh, 
 like every other person, I knew of earthquakes by description. 
 But what is description compared with reality ? Who can tell 
 of the sensations whicli I experienced when I found myself 
 rocking, as it were, upon my horse, and with him moved to and 
 fro like a child in a cradle, with the most imminent danger 
 around me ? The fearful convulsion, however, lasted only a few 
 minutes, and the heavens again brightened as quickly as they 
 had become obscured ; my horse brought his feet to the natural 
 position, raised his head, a> ■! galloped ofif as if loose and "rolick- 
 ing without a rider. 
 
 " I was not, however, without great apprehension respecting 
 my family, from which I was many miles distant, fearful that 
 where they were the shock might have caused greater havoc 
 than I had witnessed. I gave the bridle to my steed, and wa^- 
 glad to see him appear as anxioua to get home as myself. The 
 pace at which he galloped accomplished this sooner than I had 
 expected, and I found, with much pleasure, that hardly any 
 greater harm had taken place than the apprehension excited 
 for my own safety. Shock succeeded shock almost every day 
 or night for several weeks, diminishing, however, so gradually 
 as to dwindle away into mere vibrations of the earth. Strange 
 to say, I for one became so accustomed to the feeling, as rather 
 to enjoy the fears manifested by others. I never can forget the 
 effects (^f one of the slighter shucks which took place when I was 
 at a friend's liunso, where I had gone to enjoy the merriment 
 that in our western country attends a '.edding. The ceremony 
 being performed, supper over, and clie fiddles tuned, dancing 
 became tlie order of the moment. This was merrily followed 
 up to a late hour, when the party retired to rest. We were in 
 what is called, with great propriety, a log-house ; one of large 
 dimensions, and solidly constructed. The owner was a physi- 
 cian, and in one corner were not only his lancets, tourniquets, 
 amputating knives, and other sanguinary apparatus, but all the 
 drugs wliich lie employed for the relief ol' his patients, arranged 
 in jars ainl phials of different sizes. These had some ilays 
 belore made a narrow escape from destruction, but had been 
 
 fortunate 
 they wer( 
 "As I 
 approach 
 quake be 
 them out 
 ensued wj 
 Every pe 
 of the loj 
 wildly on 
 full mooi 
 times by 
 her view 
 "On'^i 
 next to ii 
 together 
 like a fi( 
 perches, e 
 recoUectii 
 vent theii 
 moment c 
 arms, juu 
 and there 
 the shocli 
 " The s 
 sensible o 
 earthqual 
 places. 
 Mississip] 
 two islam 
 in disma'' 
 
; A FRANTIC DOCTOR. 
 
 41 
 
 ire was the 
 
 •e, although, 
 description, 
 ho can tell 
 uud myself 
 oved to and 
 ent danger 
 I only a few 
 dy as they 
 the natural 
 md Tolick- 
 
 respecting 
 Jarful that 
 ator havoc 
 d, and wa- 
 self. The 
 than I had 
 lardly any 
 >n excited 
 every day 
 gradually 
 Strange 
 as rather 
 forget the 
 hen I was 
 lerriment 
 ceremony 
 dancing 
 followed 
 e were in 
 of large 
 a i)iiysi- 
 rniquots, 
 it all tiie 
 irrunged 
 me ilays 
 at! been 
 
 fortunately preserved by closing the doors of the canes in which 
 they were contained. 
 
 " As I have said, we had all retired to rest. Morning was fast 
 approaching, when the rumbling noise that precedes the earth- 
 quake began so loudly, as to awaken the whole party, and drive 
 them out of bed in the greatest consternation. The scene which 
 ensued was humorous in the extreme. Fear knows no restraint. 
 Every person, old and young, filled with alarm at the creaking 
 of the log-house, and apprehending instant destruction, rushed 
 wildly out to the grass enclosure fronting the building. The 
 full moon was slowly descending from her throne, covered at 
 times by clouds that rolled heavily along, as if to conceal from 
 her view the scenes of terror which prevailed on earth below. 
 
 " On he grass plot we all met, in such condition as rendered it 
 next to impossible to discriminate any of the party, all huddled 
 together in a state of almost perfect nudity. The earth waved 
 like a field of corn before the breeze ; the birds left their 
 perches, and flew about not knowing whither ; and the doctor, 
 recollecting the danger of his gallipots, ran to his office, to pre- 
 vent their dancing off the shelves to the floor. Never for a 
 moment did he think of closing the doors, but, spreading his 
 arms, jumped about the front of the cases, pushing back hero 
 and there the falling jars, but with so little success, that before 
 the shock was over he had lost nearly all he possessed. 
 
 *' The shock at length ceased, and the frightened females, now 
 sensible of their dishabille, lied to their several apartments. The 
 earthquakes [ji-oduced more serious consequences in other 
 [tlaces. Near New Madrid, and for some distance on tho 
 Mississippi, tlie earth was rent asunder in several places, one or 
 two islands sunk for ever, and the inhabitants who escaped fled 
 in dismay towards the eastern shores." 
 
 r 
 
I 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 i':. 
 
 CIIArTEE IX. 
 
 AUDUIION SUKFKUS FIIOM NEW MiSFORTUNKS — SKVENTKKN THOUSAND DOL- 
 LARS liOST — ThANSFKUS his FATHKU'a PUOPEUTY TO HIS SlSTER — 
 
 Stah'I's in Business at IlKNDKiisoNVU.i.E, ani> Succeeds — Uefuses a 
 Commission in an ExrEurrioN to South Ameuk.'a — Narrow Escai'k 
 
 FROM a ]{UFFIAN FiRECTION OF A MlIJi AND liENEWED MlSFORTUNlls 
 
 ^foVES TO LOUISVII.I.E — COMMENCES TO DuAW PORTRAITS — EnQAUE- 
 
 MENT AT Cincinnati Museum. 
 
 While resident at Hendorsonville, Audubon entered upon a 
 new adventure with his brotlier-in-law to earry on business at 
 New Orleans, under the firm of " Audubon & Co." In this 
 specuhition ho embarked all the fortune at his disposal; but 
 instead of attending to his interests he remained hunting in 
 Kentueky, and soon afterwards was informed that all his money 
 had been swept away in business misadventures. 
 
 At this juncture the father of Audubon died; but from some 
 unfortunate cause he did not receive legal notice for more than 
 a year. On becoming acquainted with the fact he travelled to 
 Philadelphia to obtain funds, but was unsuccessful. His father 
 had left him his property in France of La Gubitiere, and 
 seventeen thousand dollars whidi had been deposited with u 
 merchant in Kiclimond, Virginia. Audubon, however, took no 
 steps to obtain possession of his ^'stato in France, and in after 
 year3, when his sons had grown up, sent one of them to France, 
 for the purpose of legally transferring the property to his own 
 sister llosa. The merchant who held possession of the seventeen 
 thousand dollars would not deliver them up until Audubon 
 proved himself to be the son of Captain Audubon. JVforo this 
 could be done the merchant died insolvent, ami the legatee never 
 
 recovered 
 llendersoil 
 to providi 
 anxiety, 
 ffoods in 
 In his jo\| 
 volunteers 
 colonel's 
 preferred 
 chased laij 
 and seemj 
 ever, his c 
 who objec 
 attacked 
 disabled h 
 ulvose frie 
 evei', that 
 expected i 
 The pro 
 the an-ivij 
 presence 
 him to e 
 was total 
 man, nan 
 lost his in 
 no pleasa 
 vigour, c 
 Mr. App( 
 Harrison 
 clerk of . 
 failed in 
 only con 
 more pai 
 concernc 
 mill," ai 
 the cone 
 who ch( 
 From tl 
 fell due 
 
ERECTION OF A MILL. 
 
 43 
 
 -^usAND Dol- 
 us SiSTEU — 
 — IllOFUKKS A 
 
 mow EscAi'io 
 
 MlSl'OUTLlNi:> 
 
 I'a — Engauk- 
 
 ed upon a 
 business at 
 In this 
 30sal; but 
 unting ill 
 lis money 
 
 Prom sonic 
 
 noi-(» tliau 
 
 ivellcd to 
 
 tis futlicr 
 
 iere, and 
 
 I with a 
 
 ', tooli no 
 
 d in after 
 
 i IVance, 
 
 1 his own 
 
 evcnteen 
 
 \n(hibon 
 
 fore this 
 
 00 never 
 
 recovered a doHar of his money. Ucturniiig from Pliihidelphia to 
 Ilendersonvillo, the unfortunate Audubon duiorfnlly endeavoured 
 to provide for the future, about whicdi ho felt considerable 
 anxiety. Gathering a few liundrcd dollars, ho purchased some 
 floods in Louisville, and returned to business in Ilendersonvillo. 
 In his journey ho met with General Toledo, who was raising 
 volunteers to go to South America, and who ofterod him a 
 colonel's commission in tlio adventure. Audubon, hov/evor, 
 preferred remaining at home The business prospered; he pur- 
 chased land and a log cabin, with a family of negi-oes thereto, 
 and seemed to settle down comfortable. At this period, how- 
 ever, his career was nearly brought to a conclusion. A ruffian, 
 who objected to his treatment in some business transactions, 
 attacked him with a bludgeon while he was suffering from a 
 disabled hand. Drawing a dagger, Audubon stabbed his assailant, 
 whose friends immediately demanded vengeance. Finding, how- 
 evei', that a superior party rallied round the naturalist, the 
 expected fight was avoided. 
 
 The prosperous career of Audubon was prematurely closed by 
 the an-ival of a former partner-, who joined him, and whose 
 presence seemed to herald disaster. This partner advised 
 him to erect a steam mill at Hendersonville, a place which 
 was totally unfitted for any such speculation. An English- 
 man, named Thomas Pease, joined in partnership, and having 
 lost his money in an absurd project, separated from Audubon on 
 no pleasant terms. In order to carry on the mill with renewed 
 vigour, other partners were added ; and in connection with it 
 Mr. Apperson was established fit Shawnee Town, jMr. IJenjamin 
 Harrison at Vincennes in Indiana, and Nathaniel Pope, an old 
 clerk of Audubon's, on the I\lississij)pi river. All of these jtarties 
 failed in su[»portiiig the concern at Hendersonville, which was 
 only continui'd tlirough the despcratt* measure of taking in still 
 more partners. Finally, the mill went down, alter ruining all 
 concerned. The naturalist si)eaks with bitterness of the " infernal 
 mill," and in an equally fierce strain of a steamer purchased by 
 the concern, and afterwards sold to a party down the i\lississii)i»i, 
 who cheated the sellers out of most of the purchase money. 
 From this date his difficulties appeared to increase daily; bills 
 fell due, and unmeasured vexations assailed him. He handed 
 
44 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 over all he possessed, and left Hendersonville with his sick wife, 
 his gun, his dog, and his drawings, — but without feeling really 
 depressed at his prospects. The family reached Louisville, 
 where they were kindly received by a relative, and Audubon had 
 time to think over some scheme for raising support for his 
 family. Possessed of considerable skill as an artist in crayons, 
 he conceived the project of starting as a portrait draughtsman. 
 As he started at very low prices, his skill soon became known, 
 and in a few weeks he had as much work as he could do. His 
 family were settled with him, and his business spread so far 
 into Kentucky, that affluence was again enjoyed by the wanderer. 
 Audubon succeeded so well in portraying the features of the 
 dead, that a clergyman's child was exhumed in order that the artist 
 might have an opportunity of taking a portrait of the corpse. 
 
 In illustration of his reputation as a crayon drawer, Audubon 
 relates tluit a settler came for him in the middle of the night 
 from a considerable distance, to have the portrait of his mother 
 taken while she was on the eve of death. Audubon went with 
 the farmer in Iiis waggon, and with the aid of a candle made a 
 sketch which the artist pertly remarks might have done credit 
 to Rembrandt. This success brought otlier successes, and the 
 portrait painter soemed to have got a new start in life. Shortly 
 afterwards he received an invitation to become a curator of 
 the museum at Cincinnati, and for the preparation of birds 
 received a liberal remuneration. In conjunction with this 
 situation he ojunied a drawing school in the same city, and 
 obtained from this employment additional emolument sulHicieiit 
 to support his family comfortably. His teaching succeeded well 
 until several of his pupils started on their own account. The 
 work at the museum having been linished, Audubon fell back 
 upon his portrait painting and such resources as his genius could 
 command. Applying for assistance to an old friend whom he 
 had aided and assisted into business, the ungrateful wretch 
 declared he would do nothing for his benefactor, and further 
 added that he would not even recommend one who had such 
 wandering habits. On more occasions than this his genius for 
 discovery was made an argument against him. He was ever a 
 wanderer at heart, and showed the weaker and sillier side of his 
 nature whenever he shaped himself to civilized society. 
 
his sick wife, 
 feeling really 
 d Louisville, 
 iiidubon had 
 jport for his 
 it in crayons, 
 lraugl)tsmau. 
 3ame known, 
 aid do. His 
 pread so far 
 lie wanderer, 
 tnres of the 
 lat the artist 
 e corpse. 
 31", Audubon 
 )f the nig-ht 
 
 his mother 
 Q went with 
 idle made a 
 done credit 
 es, and the 
 5. Shortly 
 curator of 
 •n of birds 
 
 with this 
 
 city, and 
 t sulKic'iojit 
 coded well 
 nnt. The 
 
 i'ell back 
 nius could 
 
 whom he 
 ul wretch 
 k1 further 
 had such 
 ;^enius for 
 'as ever a 
 ide of his 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Rambles in Kentucky— A Ganw of Woodcutters— Clever Workmen 
 — The Flight of the Thieves — Escape from Capture — Migrations 
 
 INTO THE WiLnS OF KENTUCKY — ArK VoTiOES ON THE lllVERS — 
 
 Hazards from Indians — Eifle Shooting — Driving Nails with 
 Bullets — Daniel Boon "Barking Squirrels" — Snuffing Candles. 
 
 During his residence in Kentucky, Audubon spent all his leisure 
 time in rambles through the wilds in search of natural history 
 specimens. A variety of amusing incidents occurred in these 
 travels, and the wanderer has given several of these in a full 
 and connected form. His ready gun supplied abundant fare to 
 his homely table. Wild turkeys, deer, and bears, supplied con- 
 stant wants, after a fashion that suited the hunter well. While 
 resident there, a flat boat reached the shore, containing ten or 
 twelve stout fellows with their wives, and declaring themselves 
 to be " Yankees," asked for work as woodcutters. Audubon, 
 thinking that the boat contained wheat, held parley with the 
 occupants, and finding that they were " likely " fellows, proposed 
 to engage them to cut down a government lot of one thousand 
 tsvo hundred acres of fine timber he had purchased. The wood- 
 cutters made fast their craft to the bank, started a camp on 
 shore, and, with their wives, managed to cook their meals out 
 of the game supplied by the forest Audubon and his miller 
 visited the camp in tli(^ morning, was rather pleased with the 
 appearance of the fellows, and engaged the gang. Commencing 
 work, they soon showed their excellent training, felling the 
 trees after the fashion of experienced woodmen. T'he daily and 
 
 ;i 
 
 
?l! 
 
 46 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 weekly allowance of wood contractfil for was safely delivered, 
 and Audubon had reason to feel much contentment with his 
 servants. The miller was satisfied ; and the master, to prove 
 his appreciation of the valuable services, sent various presents 
 of game and provisions to the strangers. Finding they had 
 neglected to forward tlieir usual supply one day, Audubon went 
 off to their camp, found that the " Yankees " had gone off bodily, 
 had taken his draught oxen with them, and had harried the 
 place of all tliat could be lifted. He and his miller hunted 
 down the river for the fugitives, but they had got a start and 
 were not to be caught. Finding an escape into the Dlississippi, 
 the runaAvays voyaged out of reach of their victim, and a rare 
 accident alone placed one of them within Audubon's power. 
 While on board a IMississippi steamer, Audubon saw a hunter 
 leave the shore in a canoe and reach the steamer. No sooner had 
 the passenger reached the deck, than he recognized in him one 
 of his plunderers ; but the woodcutter, fearing an arrest, leai)ed 
 into the stream and swam towards the shore. Entering a cane 
 brake, he was lost to sight, and the naturalist was never gratified 
 by either hearing of, or seeing any one of the fellows again. 
 
 In referring to Kentuckian sports, Audubon remarks that that 
 state was a sort of promised land for all sorts of wandering 
 adventurers from the eastern states. Families cast loose from 
 their homesteads beyond the mountains wandered westward 
 with their waggons, servants, cattle, and household gods. 
 Bivouacking by some spring, in a glade of the primeval forest, 
 near some well known " salt lick," where game would be plentiful, 
 these western representatives of tlie patriarchs moved on towards 
 new resting-places, from which the red man, not without serious 
 danger, had been driven. When a voyage by water was 
 meditated as the easiest means of transporting the family and 
 the baggage, a group of emigrants would build an ark on some 
 creek of the upper waters of the Ohio, and in a craft, forty or 
 fifty feet long, drift down the stream, carrying upon the roof 
 the bodies of carts and waggons, upon the sides the wheels of 
 the same. 
 
 Within these floating mansions the wayfarers live<l, not 
 without fear of impending dangers. To show a light through 
 the loopholes within range of a retlskin's riile was certain death 
 
 
 
 to the 1 
 under ur 
 how thei 
 curious p 
 uncomm^ 
 desiring 
 ralist, " 
 of which I 
 of its lenl 
 sider a pj 
 cleans til 
 places a 1 
 from his 
 posed to 
 A shot w 
 an indiff'e 
 somewha 
 head is si 
 nail, and 
 are frequ 
 drive the 
 two best 
 all the sp 
 two in f 
 for anotJi 
 While 
 of seeing 
 less tech 
 firing int 
 they crc 
 sport, ai 
 " We 
 the Ken 
 covered 
 was a ^ 
 every tr 
 man, di 
 moccasi: 
 loading 
 
(l(^liverc(l, 
 
 t with his 
 
 to prove 
 
 ? presents 
 
 they had 
 
 ibon went 
 
 )ff bodily, 
 
 rried the 
 
 iv lumted 
 
 start and 
 
 ississippi, 
 
 nd a rare 
 
 's power. 
 
 a hunter 
 
 •oner had 
 
 him one 
 
 it, leajied 
 
 g a cane 
 
 f^ratified 
 
 Kfiiu. 
 
 hat that 
 
 inderino: 
 
 )se from 
 
 'estward 
 
 gods. 
 
 il forest, 
 
 lentiful, 
 
 towards 
 
 serious 
 
 er was 
 
 ily and 
 
 ai some 
 
 brty or 
 
 le roof 
 
 leels of 
 
 d, not 
 
 irough 
 
 death 
 
 DRIVrNG NAILS WITH BULLKTK. 
 
 47 
 
 to the inmate ; and night and day, while these arks drifted 
 under umbrageous forests, tlieir occupants were busy .considering 
 how their lives might be most dearly sold. Audubon notices 
 curious practices connected with testing the skill of marksmen, not 
 uncommon in his own time in Virginia. " At stated times, those 
 desiring a trial of skill would be assembled," writes the natu- 
 ralist, " and betting a trifling sum, put up a target, in the centre 
 of which a common-sized nail is hammered for about two-thiids 
 of its length. The jnarksmen make choice of what they con- 
 sider a proper distance, which may be forty paces. Each man 
 cleans the interior of his barrel, which is called wij)lnff it, 
 places a ball in the palm of his hand, pouring as much powder 
 from his horn upon it as will cover it. This quantity is sup- 
 posed to be sufficient for any distance within a hundred yards. 
 A shot which comes very close to the nail is considered that of 
 an indifferent marksman ; the bending of the nail is, of course, 
 somewhat better ; but nothing less than hitting it right on the 
 head is satisfactory. One out of three shots generally hits the 
 nail, and should the shooters amount to Iialf-a-dozen, two nails 
 are frequently needed before each can have a shot. Those who 
 drive the nail have a further trial amongst themselves, and the 
 two best shots out of these generally settle the affair ; when 
 all the sportsmen adjourn to some house, and spend an hour or 
 two in friendly intercourse, appointing, before they part, a day 
 for anotJier trial." 
 
 While at the town of Frankfort, Audubon had an opportunity 
 of seeing the celebrated Daniel Boon " barking squirrels," or, in 
 less technical phrase, striking them out of their hiding-jilaces by 
 firing into the bark of the tree immediately beside the position 
 they crouch into. Audubon went out with Boon to see the 
 sport, and writes : — 
 
 " We walked out together, and followed the rocky margins of 
 the Kentucky river until we reached a piece of flat land thickly 
 covered with black walnuts, oaks, and hickories. As the mast 
 was a good one that year, squirrels were seen gamboling on 
 every tree around us. My companion, a stout, hale, and athletic 
 man, dressed in a homespun inmting shirt, bare-legged and 
 moccasined, carried a long and heavy rifle, which, as he was 
 loading it, ho said had proved efficient in all his former under- 
 
#i 
 
 48 
 
 /E OF AUDUnoX. 
 
 takings, and which ho hoped wouhl not fail on this occasion, af< 
 ho felt proud to show me his skill. I'ho gun was wijjcd, the 
 powder measured, the ball patched witli six-hundred-thread 
 linen, and the charge sent home with a hickory rod Wo moved 
 not a stej) from the place, for the squirrels were so numerous 
 that it was unnecessary to go after them. Boon pointed to one 
 of these animals which had observed us, and was crouched on a 
 branch about fifty paces distant, and bade mo mark well the 
 spot where the ball should hit. He raised his piece gradually, 
 until the bead (that being the name given by the Kontuckians 
 to the sight) of the barrel was brought to a line with the spot 
 which he intended to hit, and fired. 
 
 " I was astounded to find that the ball had hit the piece of the 
 bark immediately beneath the squirrel, and shivered it into 
 splinters; the concussion produced by which had killed the 
 animal, and sent it whirling through the tiir, as if it had been 
 blown up. 
 
 " The snufling of a candle with a ball I first had an oppor- 
 tunity of seeing near the banks of Green River, not fa from a 
 large pigeon roost, to which I had previously made a visit. I 
 heard many reports of guns during the early part of a dark 
 night, and knowing them to be those of rifles, 1 went towards 
 the spot to ascertain the cause. On reaching the place, I was 
 welcomed by a dozen of tall stout men, who told me they were 
 exercising for the purpose of enabling them to shoot under 
 night at the reflected light from the eye of a deer or wolf by 
 torchlight. 
 
 " At a distance of fifty paces stood a lighted candle, barely 
 distinguishable in the darkness. One man was placed within 
 a few yards of it, to watch the effects of the shots, as well as to 
 light the candle, should it chance to go out, or to repair it, 
 should the shot cut it across. Each marksman shot in his turn. 
 Some never hit either the snuff or the candle. One of them, 
 who was particularly expert, was very fortunate, and siuiflfed 
 the candle three times out of seven, whilst all the other shots 
 either put out the candle, or cut it immediately under the 
 light." 
 
wiped, tlio 
 Ired-tliread 
 We moved 
 
 numerous 
 ited to one 
 iiched on a 
 •k well the 
 
 gradually, 
 ontuckians 
 til the spot 
 
 liece of the 
 'ed it into 
 killed the 
 t had been 
 
 an oppor- 
 fa from a 
 a visit. I 
 of a dark 
 it towards 
 ace, I was 
 they were 
 )ot under 
 wolf by 
 
 e, barely 
 d within 
 t'ell as to 
 repair it, 
 his turn, 
 of them, 
 snuffed 
 ler shots 
 idor tlic 
 
 \ 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 The National Jcdilee of 4th or July — Festivities on Beargrass 
 Creek — A Mait.e Suoau Camp — Wild Scenes in the Woods — 
 Hunting the Racoon — Preparations fob the Hunt — Success of 
 THE Hunters — Fellinq Trees to find Game. 
 
 During his residence in Kentucky, Audubon had frequent 
 opportunities of joining in the great American festival of the 
 4th July. The particular occasion he describes as a " Kentucky 
 Barbiere," and instances a very delightful jubilee held on 
 the Beargrass Creek, at which all the settlers, with their wives 
 and families, assisted. The festival was hold in a forest glade 
 by the river's side : the company arrived in their waggons, 
 bringing provisions of every kind, such fruits as the country 
 afforded, wine, and " Old ]\[onongahola " whisky. When the 
 company had assembled, an immense cannon, built of wood 
 hooped with iron, and lighted by a train, was fired, after which 
 orations were made by various oracles. The good things 
 provided were then largely enjoyed, after which dancing was 
 indulged in with an enthusiasm suitable to such an occasion. 
 ]\Iusic was provided by various amateurs, and the i'un was only 
 closed by a r-'de home in the starlight. 
 
 " A maple sugar camp " was always a pleasant refuge to 
 Audubon while wandering in the woods. He describes the 
 wild appearance these camps presented when suddenly reached 
 in the darkness, afar in the woodland solitudes, and only 
 heralded by the snarling of curs and the bowlings of the sugar- 
 makers. 
 
 E 
 
no 
 
 I-II'K 01' AUDI'MOX. 
 
 IInf,'o lo<T fires, over which the M^av oihlrons woro boiled, 
 gave the appeiiriinco of a witch incantation to a sjicctaclo in 
 wl\ich pictni'csqnely-drossod Indians, rouf;;li backwoodsmen, and 
 their Mtmnf,'ely-dre8si'd \>ives and childreu took [nwi, IJaised 
 on a lew stones phiced around the iir(\s, tho suf^ar kettk's were 
 constantly tcnd<'d hy tho women, while the men " bled " the 
 8U<!;ar maple trees, stuck into the wounds they made, cane pipes, 
 which drained tho juice, and collc'ted tho majdo sap into 
 vessels made by splitting up a "yellow popltir " into juice 
 troughs. Ten gallons of sap are requirtiil to make one pound 
 of iine-gn'ined sugar, which in some instances is equal to the 
 finest make of eandy. Such sugai' sold in Kentucky, in the 
 time of Audubon, for as much as x dozen cents in scarce 
 seasons. 
 
 liacoon hunting was a pastime much enjoyed by Audubon, 
 and ho has left plentiful records of his enjoyment of the 
 si<ort. He describes the hunter's visit to a homestead, and 
 the preparations for a racoon hunt. Tho cost of ammunition 
 was so c'insiderable in tho west, while the naturalist roved 
 about, that the axe was reckoned a cheaper implement than tho 
 rille to secure the prey. From tho naturalist's journal the 
 following description is gi\cn, inspired by the writer's own 
 peculiar enthusiasm. The cabin is made comfortable by a huge 
 pile of logs hud across the fire ; the sweet potatoes are roasted 
 in the ashes; and when all is ready the hunters begin their 
 work. 
 
 " The hunter has taken an axe from tho wood pile, and 
 returning, assures us that the night is clear, and that we shall 
 have rare sport. He blows through his rifle, to ascertain that 
 it is clear, examines his Hint, and thrusts a feather into the 
 touchhole. To a leathern bag swung at his side is attached a 
 powder-horn ; his sheatluKl knife is there also ; below hangs a 
 narrow strip of home-spun linen. He takes from his bag a 
 bullet, pulls with his teeth tlio wooden stopper from his powder- 
 horn, lays tho ball on one hand, and with the other pours the 
 powder upon it, until it is just overtopped, liaising the horn 
 to his mouth, he again closes it with the stopper, and restores 
 it to its place. Ho introduces the powder into the tube, springs 
 the box of his gun, greases the 'patch' over some melted 
 
 tallol 
 
 of hi 
 
 and 
 
 edge! 
 
 hand! 
 
 hiis i| 
 
 armsl 
 
 the \ 
 
 man. 
 
 ' Foil] 
 
 grape^^ 
 
 man. 
 
 Gene 
 
 Now 
 
HACOON HIJNTINO. 
 
 r>i 
 
 wore boiled, 
 
 H])PctiK;l(' ill 
 
 Hxisiuen, and 
 
 art. liaised 
 
 kettles were 
 
 "bled" tli(* 
 
 ', cano pipes, 
 
 )lo sap into 
 
 into juice 
 
 one pound 
 
 equal to the 
 
 uclcy, in the 
 
 ts in seareo 
 
 )y Audubon, 
 
 nent of the 
 
 lestead, and 
 
 ananunition 
 
 irulist roved 
 
 Dut than the 
 
 journal the 
 
 I'iter's own 
 
 by a liuge 
 
 are roasted 
 
 )egiu their 
 
 pile, and 
 at we shall 
 ei'taiu that 
 r into the 
 attached a 
 >w hangs a 
 his bag a 
 is powder- 
 pours the 
 
 the horn 
 d restores 
 »e, springs 
 e melted 
 
 tallow, or damjw it, then places it on the honeycombed muzzle 
 of his piece. The bullet is placed on tho patch over tUn bore, 
 and pressed with the handle of the knile, wliich now trims tho 
 edges of the linen. The elastic liickory rod, held vith both 
 hands, snioothly pushes tho, ball to its bed ; once, twice, thrice 
 has it rebound(!d, Tho rifle leaps as it were into the hunter's 
 arms, tho feather is drawn from tho touchholo, tho powder tills 
 the pan, whi(di is closed. ' Now I am ready,' crii^s tho woods- 
 man. A servant lights a torch, and off we march to the woods. 
 ' Follow rao close, for tho ground is covered with logs, and the 
 grape vines hang everywhere across. Toby, hold up the light, 
 man, or we'll never see the gullies. Trail your gun, sir, as 
 General Clark used to say — not so, but this way — that's it. 
 Now then, no danger you see ; i;o feur of snakes, poor things I 
 They ava stiff enough, I'll be bound. The dogs have tn^cd one. 
 Toby, you old fool, why don't you turn to tlu; right? — not so 
 nuich. There, go ahead and give v.s a light. What's that? 
 who's there? Ah! you young rascals I you've played us a 
 trick, have you. It's all well enough, but now, just kee[) behind 
 
 or I'll ' In fact, the boys with eyes good enough to see in 
 
 tho dark, although not quite so well as an owl, had cut directly 
 across to tho dogs, which had surprised a racoon on the ground, 
 and bayed it, until the lads knocked it on the head. ' Seek 
 him, boys !' cries the hunter. Tlu; dogs, putting their noses to 
 the ground, pushed off at a good rate. ' Haster, they're making 
 for tho creek,' says old Toby. On towards it therefore we push. 
 What woods, to be sure ! We are now in a low flat covered with 
 beech trees. 
 
 " The racoon was discovered swimming in a pool. The glare 
 of the lighted torch was doubtless distressing to him ; his coat 
 was ruffled, and his rounded tail seemed thrice its ordinary 
 size ; his eyes shone like emeralds ; with foaming jaws he watched 
 the dogs, ready to seize each by the snout if it came within 
 reach. They kept him busy for some niinut<'s; the water 
 became thick with mud; his coat now hung dripping, and his 
 draggled tail lay floating on the surfaces His guttural growl- 
 ings, in place of intimidating his assailants, excited them the 
 more, and they very unceremoniously closed upon him. One seized 
 him by the rump and tugged, but was soon forced to loi go; 
 
 E 2 
 
 * J 
 
 r 
 
 u 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
52 
 
 ].\VV. OF A[Tpi:nox, 
 
 another stuck to \m sido, but soon taking a bottcr-directod bito 
 of his nuizzle, tho coon's fato was srah'd. lb; was knocked on 
 the head, and Toby renmrks, 'That's anotlicr hall" dollar's worth.* 
 as ho hanides the thii'k I'ur of tho prey. Tho (h»f;;s arc npiiii 
 found h)okin<j; up into a tree and barking furiously. Tiio 
 hunters cni[doy their axes, and send tho chips about. 
 
 " The troo b(>gan to crack, and slowly leaning to one sid(>, tho 
 heavy mass swung rustling through tho air, and fell to the earth 
 with a crash. It was not one coon that was surprised her(\ but 
 tlireo, one of which, more crafty than the rest, leaped from tin* 
 top while the tree was stiiggciring. Tlu! other t o stuck to tho 
 hollow of a bran(!h, from which they wore soon driven by one of 
 the dogs. 1'yko and Lion having nosed tho cunning old one, 
 scampered after him. lie is brought to bay, and a rifle bullet 
 is sent through his liead. The other two are secured after a 
 desperate conflict, and the hunters, with their bags full, return 
 to the cabin." 
 
 Visit 
 
.V 
 
 liroct(>(l bito 
 knockcMl on 
 liir's worth.' 
 H mv nj2;uin 
 )usly. Tlio 
 
 )no Hulo, tlio 
 to i\\o. ourth 
 id lions l>ut 
 0(1 from tho 
 ^tiick to tho 
 m by OTIC of 
 ng old Olio, 
 riflo bullet 
 urod after a 
 full, return 
 
 CHAFIER Xll. 
 
 Visit iuom thk Eccentiuc Naturalist, Kafinesqug— His Dki.irium 
 AT Discovering a Nkw J'i.ant — Smashes a Fiudle, tuyino to 
 Captuue ]5ath — Dukaukui, Journey tiirouuii a Cane-Brake — 
 Alarm at a Hear — The Xaturalkst Aiihcondk — Daniel 1!oone, tub 
 Famous IIirNTER — Cai'tuueu by Indians — Miraculous Escai-e — 
 Boone's Ash Tree, 
 
 While resident in Kentucky, Audubon was visited by tlxe 
 ecoontrie naturalist, Rafinosquo, whoso manner of life, dress, and 
 oililitios of conduct apjjoared to have greatly amused even one so 
 little attentive to formalities as the ornithologist. The stranger 
 reached the banks of tho Ohio in a boat, and carrying on his 
 back a bundle of plants which resombled dried clover. He 
 accidentally addressed Audubon, and asked where tho naturalist 
 lived. Audubon introduced himself, and was handed a letter of 
 introduction by the stranger, in which tho writer begged to 
 recommend " an odd fish," which might not have been described 
 in published treatises. Audubon innocently asked where the 
 odd fish was, which led to a pleasant explanation and a com- 
 plete understanding between the two naturalists. 
 
 " I presented my learned guest to my family," writes Audubon, 
 " and was ordering a servant to go to the boat for my friend's 
 luggage, when he told me he had none but what ho brought on 
 his back. He then loosened tiie pack of weeds which had first 
 drawn my attention. The naturalist pulled off his shoes, and 
 while engaged in drawing his stockings down to hide the holes 
 ill his heels, ho explained that his apparel had suffered from 
 his journey." 
 
 This eccentric's habits were neither tidy nor cleanly. He 
 
 i iiil 
 
 f 
 
 n 
 
 II 
 ,J 
 ) 
 J 
 < 
 
54 
 
 IJKE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 would hardly perforin needful ablutions, and refnted n clian<;-e 
 of clean clothing, suggested as being more comfortable. " His 
 attire," remarks Audubon, " struck me as exceedingly remark- 
 able. A long loose coat of yc^^ow nankeen, much the worse for 
 the many rubs it luid got in its time, and stained all over with 
 the juice of plants, hung loosely about him like a sack. A 
 waistcoat of the same, with enormous j)Ockets, and buttoned up 
 to the chin, reached below over a })air of tight pantaloons, the 
 lower part of which were buttoned down to the ankles. His 
 beard was as long as I have known my own to bo during some 
 of my peregrinations, and his lank blaclc hair hung loosely over 
 his shoulders. His ibrehead ^\ns so broad and prominent that 
 any tyro in jdirenology would instantly have pronounced it the 
 residence of a mind of strong powers. His words impressed an 
 assurance of rigid truth, and as he directed the conversation to 
 the study of the natural sciences, I listened to him with great 
 delight. He requested to see my drawings, anxious to see tlu; 
 plants I had introduced besides the birds I had drawn. Findiuir 
 a strange plant among my draw ings, he denied its authenticity ; 
 but on my ass\iring him that it grew in the neighbourhood, he 
 insisted on going off instantly to s(,^o it. 
 
 " When I pointed it out the naturalist lost all command over 
 his feelings, and behaved like a maniac in expressing his delight. 
 He plucked the plants one after another, danced, hugged me in 
 his arms, and exulting! y told me he had got, not merely a new 
 species, but a new geims. 
 
 " He immediately took notes of all tlie leedful particulars of 
 the plant in a note-book, which he carried wrapt in a waterproof 
 covering. After a day's pursuit of natural history studies, the 
 stranger was accommodated with a bed in an attic room. We 
 had all retired to rest ; every person I imagined was in deep 
 slumber save myself, when of a sudden I heard a great uproar 
 in the naturalist's room. I got up, reached the place in a few 
 moments, and opened the door ; when, to my astonishmeat, I saw 
 my guest running naked, holding the handle of my favourite 
 violin, the body of whiclx he had battered to pieces against the 
 walls in attempting to kill the bats which had entered by the 
 open window, probably attracted by the insects flying around 
 his candle. I stood annized, but he continued jumping and 
 
 runnil 
 he be) 
 convii 
 conviJ 
 Crcml 
 it can| 
 bade 
 the rol 
 
;!(! a cliaiiire 
 lUe. " His 
 };\y remark - 
 
 10 worse for 
 
 11 over with 
 a sack. A 
 juttoned up 
 taloous, the 
 finkles. His 
 luring some 
 loosely over 
 uiinont that 
 lueeil it the 
 11 pressed an 
 k^ersation to 
 
 with great 
 I to see the 
 1. Findiiiir 
 ithentieity ; 
 )urhood, ho 
 
 iinand over 
 lis dehglit. 
 cl me in 
 ely a new 
 
 ticulars of 
 
 waterproof 
 
 udies, the 
 
 oom. We 
 
 IS in deep 
 
 at uproar 
 
 in a few 
 
 e.it, I saw 
 
 ^ favourite 
 
 gainst tlie 
 
 ed by the 
 
 ig around 
 
 ping and 
 
 JOURNEY TllKOUUil A OANb^-BUAKE. 55 
 
 running round and round, until ho was fairly exhausted, when 
 he begged me to procure one of the animals for liini, as he felt 
 convinced thoy belonged to a ' new species.' Although I was 
 convinced of the contrary, I took up the bow of my demolished 
 Cremona, and administering a smart tap to each of the bats as 
 it came up, soon got specimens enough. The war ended, I again 
 bade him good-night, but could not help observing tlie state of 
 the room. It was strewed with plants, which had been previously 
 arranged with care. 
 
 "He saw my regret for the havoc that had been created, but 
 added that ho would soon put his plants to rights — after he had 
 secured his new specimens of bats. Kafinesqno had great anxiety 
 to be shown a cane-brake, plenty of which were to be found in 
 the neighbourhood. The cane-brake is composed of a dense 
 growth of canes, measuring twenty or thirty feet in height, and 
 packed so closely that a man's body requires to be forced between 
 the shafts uf the canes. An undergrewtli of pliints and trailing 
 climbers further prevents progression, which has to be accelerated 
 by jmshiug the back between the canes. Game of all sorts 
 frequent the cane-brakes, in which travelling is rendered dis- 
 agreeably exciting by the presence of bears, panthers, snakes, 
 and serpents. The cane-brakes arc sometimes set fire to, and 
 the water collected in the separate joints explodes like a shell. 
 The constant fusilade occasioned by such explosions in the midst 
 of a conflagration has occasioned the flight of parties not con- 
 versant with the cause, and who believed that the Indians were 
 advancing with volleys of musketry. I had determined that my 
 companion should view a cane-brake in all its jierfectiou, and 
 leading him ^e' eral miles in a direct course, came upon as fine 
 a sample as existed in that part of the country. "We entered, 
 and for some time proceeded without much difficulty, as I led 
 the way, and cut down the canes whicli were most likely to 
 incommode him. The diiliculties gradually increased, so that 
 we were presently obliged to turn our backs and push our way 
 through. After a while we chanced to come upon the top of a 
 fallen tree, which so obstructed our j)assagc, that we were on 
 the eve of going ruund, instead of thrusting ourselves tlirough 
 amongst the branches ; when from its bed, in the centre of the 
 tangled maes, forth rushed a bear with such force, that my 
 friend became terror-struck, and in his haste to escape made a 
 
 ! ; \:-l 
 
 Hi 
 
 1 1 ■ 
 
 f 
 
 ? 
 
 f 
 
 n 
 
 J 
 
56 
 
 LIFK OF AUDUBON. 
 
 des2:)erate attempt to run, but fell amongst the canes in such a 
 way that he was completely jammed. I could not refrain from 
 laughing at the ridiculous exhibition he made, but my gaiety 
 howevev was not very pleasing to tlie discomfited naturalist. 
 A thunder-storm with a deluge of rain completed our expe- 
 rience of the cane-brake, and my friend begged to be taken out. 
 This could only be accomplished by crawling in a serpentirio 
 manner out of the jungle, from which the eccentric naturalist 
 was delighted to escape, perfectly overcome with fatigue and 
 fear. The eccentric was more than gratified with the exploit, 
 and soon after left my abode without explanation or farewell. 
 A letter of thanks, however, showed that ho had enjoyed the 
 hospitality, and was not wanting in gratitude." 
 
 In his Kentucky rambles Audubon had more than one ojipor- 
 tunitv of secinff and huntinc; with the famous Colonel Boone, the 
 Kentucky hunter, and hero of a multitude of desperate adven- 
 tures. On a particular occasion Boone spent a night under 
 Audubon's roof, and related some of his adventures, among 
 others, the following. On a hunting expedition in which Boone 
 was engaged, the wanderer was afraid of Indians, and he con- 
 sequently damped out his fire before falling asleep. He had 
 not lain long before strong hands were laid upon him, and he 
 was dragged off to the Indian camp. Avoiding every semblance 
 of fear, Boone neither spoke nor resisted. The Indians ran- 
 sacked his pockets, foimd his whisky flask, and commenced to 
 drink from it. While so engaged a shot was fired, and the male 
 savages went off in pursuit, while the squaws were left to watch 
 the prisoner. Eolling himself towards the fire, Boone burnt the 
 fastenings which bound him, sprang to his feet, and after hacking 
 three notches in an ash tree, afterwards known as "Boone's Ash," 
 fled from the neighbourhood. In years after an engineer in Ken- 
 tuclcy made the ash a point for a survey. A lawsuit arose out 
 of a boundary question, and the only chance of closing it was 
 by identifyhig " Boone's Ash." The hunter was sent for, and 
 after some searching he pointed out the tree, in which the 
 notches were detected after the bark had been peeled away. 
 Boone's extraordinary stature and colossal strength struck 
 Audubon as remarkable among a remarkable race ; and the 
 dreaded foe of the red man was notable for an honesty and 
 courage that could not be questioned. 
 
lies in such a 
 
 t refrain from 
 
 ut my gaiety 
 
 5d naturalist, 
 
 ;'d our expe- 
 
 be taken out. 
 
 a serpentine 
 
 ■ic naturalist 
 
 fatigue and 
 
 tlie exploit, 
 
 or farewell. 
 
 enjoyed the 
 
 1 one opiiov- 
 3I Boone, the 
 srate adven- 
 night under 
 U'os, among 
 diich Boone 
 nd he con- 
 ). He had 
 im, and he 
 semblance 
 idians ran- 
 imenced to 
 d the male 
 ft to watch 
 ! burnt the 
 ii' hacking 
 me's Ash," 
 sr in Ken- 
 arose out 
 ing it was 
 t for, and 
 i^hich the 
 ed away. 
 1 struck 
 and the 
 eety and 
 
 CHAPTER Xm. 
 
 AuDunoN Leaves Cincinnati with Captain Cdmmino — Voyage in Flat 
 ItoAT Down the (.)nio and Mississippi — Arrival at Natchez — 
 Beautiful Scenery — Flocks of Vultures — New Friends in 
 Natchez — FiXciiANGiNG Portraits for Boots — Departure for New 
 Orleans — Loses a Tortfolio — Ashore Shooting — Boat-tailed 
 Grakle — Arrival at New Orlea^cj — Want of Success — His 
 I'URSE Stolen — Interview with Jarvis, the Portrait-Painter, 
 and Disappointment — Hears of an Exploring Expedition to 
 Mexico, and Efforts to Join it— Vanderlyn, the Painter. 
 
 On the 12th of October, 1820, Audubon left Cincinnati in 
 company with Captain Gumming, an American engineer who 
 had been appointed to make a survey of the Mississippi river, 
 and after fourteen days of drifting down the Ohio, the flat boat 
 which contained the scientific " expedition " reached the 
 Jlississippi river. The naturalist had failed to receive the 
 money due to him at Cincinnati, and vexed and discouraged, 
 he determined even without means to seek a new Held for 
 employment. 
 
 From a letter addressed to the Governor of Arkansas at this 
 date, it is evident that Audubon had determined on a lengthened 
 excursion in the pursuit of ornithological specimens, including 
 the States of Mississippi, Alabama, and Florida, afterwards 
 retracing his stops to New Orleans up the Red Rivor, down the 
 Arkansas, and homeward to his wife. He had received letters 
 of recomm.eiulation from General, afterwards PresidtMit Harris m, 
 and from Henry Clay, and good prospects seemed to dawn. He 
 had determined in any case to complete one hundred drawings of 
 birds before returning to Cincinnati, and he fulfilled this resolve. 
 
 
 C 
 
 I 
 
 f 
 n 
 
 a 
 J 
 
Il 
 
 58 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 " On a clear frosty morning in December," writes Audnbon 
 in his jonrual, " I arrived at Natchez, and found the levee 
 lined with various sorts of boats full of western produce. 
 Tho crowd was immense and the market appeared to be a sort 
 of fair. Scrambling up to the cliffs on which the city is built, 
 I found flocks of vultures flying along the ground with out- 
 spread wings in the pursuit of food. Large pines and superb 
 magnolias crowned tho bluff, and tb.eir evei'gi'cen foliage showed 
 with magnificent effect. I was delighted with tho spectacle of 
 white-headed eagles pursuing fishing hawks, and surveyed the 
 river scenery si)arkling in bright sunlight with a new pleas'ire. 
 Far away across the stream the shores wore lost in the primitive 
 forests, and a mysterious unknown seemed to lie beyond me. 
 I was impressed with the pretty liouscs of tlie upper town, built 
 of painted brick or wood ; and to complete my feeling of enjoy- 
 ment, my relative, BIr. Berthoud, gave me letters from my wife 
 and sons, received by the weekly mail which then brought 
 letters to Natchez from all parts of the Union. The town 
 owned three thousand inhabitants ; was composed of an upi)er 
 town and an under town, tho latter chiefly built up of beached 
 flat boats converted into cabins by a rascally and nondescript 
 population. The planters' houses in the upper town were 
 models of luxury and comfort, biit the church architecture 
 prevalent rather detracted from the beauty of tho place. I 
 found tho mocking bird in abundance, and tho pewee fly- 
 catcher at home in its winter quarters. The old Spanish fort 
 was still visible in ruins, and a rumour reached me that many 
 liouses had been buried in the river by a slip of the bank. At 
 Natchez, I was amazed to see a white-headed eagle attack a 
 vulture, knock it down, and gorge itself upon a dead horse. 
 M. Gamier, who kept the largest hotel in tho place, be''riend>'d 
 me in many ways, and 1 also formed an acquaintance with 
 M. Charles Carre, the son of a French nobleman of tho old 
 regime. From Carrd I had a history^of Natchez, as i'e had 
 lived to witness the career of that town under tho Spaniards, 
 French, and Americans." 
 
 lu connection with his residence in Natchez, he tells a 
 a significant story. A companion of his, voyaginf-, having 
 worn his shoes down, had no money to get them repaired or to 
 
 purchal 
 means ; 
 his fri€ 
 but thJ 
 his will 
 satislieJ 
 couple 
 the shol 
 some s| 
 friend 
 was tal| 
 bon dis 
 birds h 
 only r( 
 placed 
 to put 
 serious 
 M. Ga 
 utmost 
 as far a 
 with th 
 course 
 flocks ' 
 natural 
 the riv 
 "Ne 
 from tl 
 windiii 
 
writes Aiulnbon 
 )iiud the lovee 
 3storn in-oduoo. 
 red to bo a soi't 
 lio city is built, 
 Dund with out- 
 iies nud superb 
 foliafre showed 
 10 spectacle of 
 I surveyed tlio 
 I new ploasu'-e. 
 1 the i)rimitive 
 ie beyond uie. 
 per town, built 
 eling of enjoy- 
 
 from my wife 
 
 then brought 
 
 11- The town 
 
 of an up])er 
 ip of beached 
 i nondescript 
 town were 
 
 EXCHANGING PORTRAITS FOR BOOTS. 
 
 59 
 
 arc 
 
 3cture 
 
 ho place. I 
 > peweo fly- 
 S[)anish fort 
 3 that many 
 bank. At 
 ?Ie attack a 
 dead horse. 
 , be''riend''d 
 iitance with 
 of tho old 
 tts i'e had 
 Sj.'aniaids.. 
 
 tells a 
 having 
 »aired or to 
 
 PM» 
 
 purchase new ones. Tlie naturalist was likewise >\ithont the 
 moans ; but Audubon called upon a shoemaker, explained that 
 Ills friend was in want of shoes, had no money to pay for them, 
 but that if he chose he should have the portrait of himself and 
 his wife in return for two pairs of boots. The shoemaker was 
 satisfied with the proposal, and the portraits were sketched in a 
 couple of hours, after which the naturalist and his friend bade 
 the shoemaker good-bye, after being fitted with new boots. After 
 some stay in Natchez, Audubon left for New Orleans with his 
 frieml Berthoud, in a keel boat belonging to the latter, but which 
 was taken in tow of the steamer. Not long after leaving, Auda- 
 bon discovered one of his portfolios, containing some drawings of 
 birds he prized highly, was missing. Full of chagrin, he could 
 only recollect that he had brought it to the wharf and had 
 placed it in the hands of a servant, who had evidently forgotten 
 to put it on board the keel boat. How to recover it was a 
 serious consideration. Letters were instantly despatched to 
 M. Garnier, M. Carre, and friends of Berthoud, to use their 
 utmost endeavours to recover the lost portfolio. After towing 
 as far as Bayou Sara, the steamer threw off the keel boat, and 
 with the aid of the current and the oars Audubon continued his 
 course to Baton Rouge, on the way to New Orleans. Large 
 flocks of beautiful ducks were passed in various eddies, and the 
 naturalist was amused by gToups of negroes catching cat-fish in 
 the river or scooping out shrimps with their nets. 
 
 " Nearing New Orleans, the country became perfectly level, and 
 from the embankments or levees we could see the great river 
 winding on for miles. The planters' houses became more visible 
 against groves of dark cyi)resses covered with hanging vine plants, 
 and odorous winds blew perfumes of the orange flowers across the 
 stream down which the boat so lazily dl'ifted. Lauding on the 
 banks, 1 made my way to the swamps, and shot several beau- 
 tiful boat-tailed grakles and a whole covey of partridges. 
 Thousands of swallows in their winter home flew about us, 
 and the cat-birds mowed in answer to their chatterings. Doves 
 echoed soft notes through the woods, and the cardinal grosbeak 
 sat on the top branches of the magnolia, saluting us by elevating 
 his glowing crest. On the (Jth of January, and when nearing 
 New Orleans, a sharp frost was felt whicli left some traces of 
 
 m\ 
 
 
 f 
 II 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 i 
 
k :■■:' 
 
 60 
 
 LIKE OF AUDUBON 
 
 ice, but at the same time we had green peas, artichokes, aud 
 other summer esculents c:: sVtore fresh from the garden." 
 
 On arriving at New Orleans, Audubon was relieved to find 
 that the lost portfolio had been found, aud was located safely 
 in thi; office of the 'Mississippi Kepublican' newspaper. He 
 however found no work to do, and had to live for some days 
 in the boat he came »vith. The moivy he had, not much, was 
 stolen from him, and he had not even as much as would pay a 
 lodging he took in advance. Amid all his difficulties he still kept 
 wandering to the woods, got additions made to his specimens, 
 aud filled his portfolio with new drawings. Meeting an Italian 
 painter, Audubon explained his anxiety to have work. The 
 Italian introduced him to the director of the theatre, who offered 
 the naturalist one hundred dollars per month to draw for him, 
 but a fixed engagement could not be entered upon. 
 
 On the 13th of January he called upon Jarvis the painter, 
 who objected to his manner of painting birds. He suggested 
 that he might assist the artist in filling in bacKgrounds, and 
 was requested to come back. 
 
 " I went back again," writes the naturalist, " but found Mr. 
 Jarvis had no use for me: he appeared in fact to fear my 
 rivalry. Meeting a friend, I was taken to the counting-house 
 of Mr. Pamar, where I was asked what I would take the por- 
 traits of three children for. I answered. One hundred dollars ; 
 but various delays occurred which prevented me from entering 
 upon this engagement. I wished for the money to send home 
 to my wife and children. 
 
 " January 14. Visited the levees, and found them crowded 
 with promenaders of every hue and nation. The day was 
 Sunday, and amusements were much indulged in. Various 
 quadroon balls held in the evening. Do not see any good look- 
 ing or handsome women ; all have a citron hue. Time passed 
 sadly in seeking ineftectually for employment. 1 was fortunate 
 in making a hit with the portrait of a well-known citizen of 
 New Orleans. I showed it to the public ; it made a favourable 
 impression, and I obtained several patrons. A few orders for 
 portraits relieved my necessities, and continuing my work of 
 painting birds, the time passed more pleasantly. 
 
 " February b. Spent my time running after orders for portraits. 
 
artichokes, and 
 garden." 
 •elieved to find 
 located safely 
 ewspaper. He 
 for some days 
 not much, was 
 as would pay a 
 es he still kept 
 his specimens, 
 ting an Italian 
 e work. The 
 re, who offered 
 draw for him, 
 
 3 the painter, 
 He suggested 
 :grouuds, and 
 
 put found ]\Ir. 
 ; to fear my 
 •unting-houso 
 ake the por- 
 Ired dollars ; 
 om enterinir 
 i send home 
 
 em crowded 
 e day was 
 1. Various 
 good look- 
 ime passed 
 is fortunate 
 1 citizen of 
 ftivourablo 
 orders for 
 ly work of 
 
 I' itortraits, 
 
 VISIT TO MR. VANDERLYN. 
 
 61 
 
 and also in vain endeavours to obtain a sight of Alexander 
 Yv ilson's * Ornithology,' but was unsuccessful in seeing the book, 
 which is very high priced. Obtained some new birds and made 
 copies. 
 
 " March 12. Of late have been unable to make many entries 
 in my journal. Near our lodgings, on tho south angle of a 
 neighbouring chimney-top, a mocking bird regularly resorts, 
 and pleases us with the sweetest notes from the rising of the 
 moon until about midnight, and every morning from about 
 eight o'clock until eleven, when he flies away to the Convent 
 gardens to feed. I have noticed that bird, always in the same 
 spot and same position, and have been particularly pleased at 
 hearing him imitate th.e watchman's cry of ' All's well !' which 
 comes from the fort, about three squares distant ; and so well 
 has he sometimes mocked it that I should have been deceived 
 if he had not repeated it too often, sometimes several times in 
 ten minutes. 
 
 "March 21. Read in the papers thif-: morning that the treaty 
 between Spain and the United States is concluded, and that 
 a clause provides that an expedition is to leave Natitoches 
 next year to survey the boundary line of the ceded territory. 
 I determined to try for au appointment as draughtsman and 
 naturalist. I wrote to President Monroe, and was quite pleased 
 at the prospect before me. I walked out in the afternoon of the 
 day on which I formed the project, and saw nothing but hundreds 
 of new birds in imagination within range of my gun. I have 
 been struck with the paucity of birds in the neighbourhood of 
 New Orleans during a season I had expected to meet with them. 
 Many species of warblers, thrushes, &c., which were numerous 
 during the winter, have migrated eastward towards Florida, 
 leaving swallows and a few water birds almost the sole repre- 
 sentatives of the feathered race. 
 
 "March 31. Sly time has been engrossed thinking over and 
 making plans about the Pacific expedition. I called on Mr. 
 Vanderlyn, the historical painter, with my portfolio, to show him 
 some of my drawings and ask him for a recommendation. He 
 said they were handsomely done, and was pleased with the 
 colouring and positions of the birds drawn. He was liowever a 
 rude-mannered man, treated me as a mendicant, and ordered 
 
 i !' 
 
 c 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 r 
 
 i 
 ) 
 3 
 ■< 
 
':!1 
 
 02 
 
 LIFE OP AUDURON. 
 
 ■;i:' 
 
 (I 
 
 me to lay down my portfolio in the lobby. I felt inclined to 
 walk oft' without further comment, but the thought of furthering 
 my prospects in connection with the expedition induced mo to 
 submit. In hnlf an hour ho returned with an ofticer, and with 
 an air more becoming aslted me into his private room. Yet I 
 could see in his expression that feeling of selfish conlidenco 
 which always imj rs in le aegree the worth of the greatest 
 man who has it. '■'»' jrspirution ran down my face as I 
 showed him mydra > .;i;-. ;;?' laid them on the flooi*. An officer 
 who was with the an. ijoki*i' at the drawings, said with an 
 oath that they were handsome. Vanderlyn made a like 
 remark, and 1 felt comforted. Although he failed in painting 
 women himself, he spoke disparagingly of my own portraits ; 
 said they were too hard, and were too strongly drawn. He sat 
 down and wrote his note while I was thinking of my journey to 
 the Pacific, and I cared not a picayune for his objections to my 
 portraits so that my prospects of going with the expedition were 
 furthered. Vanderlyn gave me a very complimentary note, in 
 which he said that he never had seen anything superior to my 
 dra'.vings in any country, and for which kindness I was very 
 thankful. His friend, the officer, follo\\ed me to the door, asked 
 the price of my portraits, and very courteously asked me to 
 paint his likeness." 
 
 AuDunoN 
 Saua- 
 OF Bi 
 
 SKAKE 
 
 Nkvv 
 Protos 
 
 AND F 
 
 Audubon 
 the sorest 
 the happ; 
 character, 
 obtain a f( 
 with Gov 
 of recomi 
 expeditio: 
 Port, Kei 
 raeut froi 
 
 " June 
 Captain 
 greatly o 
 by mosqv 
 disappoii] 
 interest i 
 
 It hap 
 family as 
 was cut 
 of Mrs. 
 
t inc'linod to 
 of furtberino' 
 iluced luo to 
 ner, and with 
 oom. Yot I 
 h confidenee 
 the greatest 
 ly face as I 
 . An officer 
 said with an 
 uado a like 
 
 in painting 
 n portraits; 
 wu. He sat 
 y journey to 
 tions to my 
 edition were 
 arv note, in 
 )erior to my 
 [I was very 
 
 door, asked 
 sked me to 
 
 CFIAFrETl XIV. 
 
 AuDunoN Leaves New Ohleans for Kentucky — Arrival at Rayou 
 Sara — Engagement at Mr. Perrie's to Teach Drawing — Pursuit 
 OF l^iRDs — Portrait Taken from a Corpse — Draws a Pattle- 
 snake — Dissection of a PiAttlesnake's Poison Fangs — PiEturn to 
 New Orleans — Keview of Work pone since Leaving Home — 
 Proposal to Paint a Panorama — Expected Arrival of Wife 
 and Family. 
 
 Audubon's fortunes in New Orleans varied exceedingly. From 
 the sorest penury and deepest distress he was suddenly raised by 
 tlie happy spirit he possessed and the untiring energy of his 
 character. One day he was going about seeking for a patron to 
 obtain a few dollars by drawing a portrait ; the next he was dining 
 with Governor llobertson of Louisiana, who gave him a letter 
 of recommendation to President Monroe in connection with the 
 expedition to Mexico. He had determined to go to Shipping 
 Port, Kentucky, but his departure was hindered by an caigage- 
 meut from a few pupils. Ho writes in his diary : — 
 
 " June 16. Left New Orleans in the steamer Columbus, 
 Captain John D'Hart, for Shipping Port, Kentucky. Been 
 gi-eatly oppressed ^^hile at work lately, and greatly tormented 
 by mosquitoes, which prevented my shieping at night. IMuch 
 disappointed by one patron at New Orleans, who affected great 
 interest in me, but would not pay one hundred dollars he owed." 
 
 It happened however that Audubon was not to return to his 
 family as soon as he expected. The voyage to Shipping Port 
 was cut short by the acceptance of a situation in the family 
 of Mrs. Perrie, who owned a plantation at Bayou Sara, in 
 
 ■0 
 
 f 
 
 in 
 
 
M 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 Louisiana. The duties accepted by Audubon were apparently 
 simple enough. He was to teach Mrs. Perrio's dauf^hter draw- 
 ing; during the summer months, at sixty dollars per month. 
 His lessons would absorb one half of the day, and with a youn^' 
 friend, Slason, ho was to have the rest of his time free for 
 hunting. Board and lodging were provided for the two friends, 
 and Mrs. I'errie's aim appears to have been to provide an 
 opportunity for Audubon to carry on his pursuits under the 
 guise of an employment which would be congenial, and not 
 interfere with his work. 
 
 " We arrived at the landing at the mouth of the bayou on 
 a hot sultry day, bid adieu to our fellow-passengers, climbed 
 the hill at St. Francisville, and rested a few minutes at the 
 house of Mr. Swift. Dinner was nearly ready, and we were 
 invited to partake, but I had no heart for it. I wished myself 
 on board the Columbus ; I wished for my beloved Lucy and 
 my dear boys. I felt that I should bc! awkward at the table ; 
 and a good opportunity having offered me to go to Mr. Perrie's, 
 we walked slowly on, guided by some of the servants, who had 
 been sent, when the family heard of our coming, to bring our 
 luggage, which they found light. 
 
 "The aspect of the country was entirely new to me, and 
 distracted my mind from those objects which are the occupation 
 of my life. Tlie rich magnolias covered with fragrant blossoms, 
 the holly, the beech, the tall yellow poplar, the hilly ground, 
 and even the red clay, all excited my admiration. Such an 
 entire change in the face of nature in so short a time seems 
 almost supernatural ; and surrounded once more by numberless 
 warblers and thrushes, I enjoyed the scene. The five miles we 
 walked appeared short, and we arrived and met Mr. Perrie at 
 his house. Anxious to know him, I examined his features by 
 Lavater's directions. We were received kindly. 
 
 " August IL We were awakened last night by a servant 
 requesting me to accompany Mrs. Perrie to the house of a dying 
 neighbour, about a mile distant. We went, but arrived too late, 
 for the man was dead, and I had the pleasure of keeping his 
 body company the remainder of the night. On such occasions 
 time flies very slowly, so much so, that it looked as if it stood 
 still, like the hawk that poises in the air over his prey. The 
 
DRAWING A RATTLESNAKE. 
 
 65 
 
 poor man had drunk himself into an everlasting sleep. I made 
 a good sketch of his head, and loft the house, while the ladies 
 were engaged in preparing the funeral dinner. 
 
 " August 12. Left this morning to visit a beautiful lake, six 
 miles distant, whore wo are told there are many beautiful birds. 
 The path led thnjugh a grove of rich magnolia woods. On the 
 way we saw a rich-coloured spider at work rolling up a horse- 
 fly he had caught in his web. He spirted a stream of fluid from 
 his mouth, at the same time rolling the fly in it, until ho looked 
 like the cocoon of a silkworm ; and having finished his work, 
 returned to the centre of his nest. This is no doubt the way 
 he puts up his food when he is not hungry, and provides for the 
 future. 
 
 "August 25. Finished drawing a very fine specimen of a 
 rattlesnake, which measured five feet and seven inches, weighed 
 six and a quarter pounds, and had ten rattles. Anxious to give 
 it a position most interesting to a naturalist, I put it in that 
 which the reptile commonly takes when on the point of striking 
 madly with its fangs. I had examined many before, and especially 
 the position of the fangs along the superior jawbones, but had 
 never seen one showing the whole exposed at the same time ; 
 and having before this supposed that it was probable that those 
 lying enclosed below the upper one, in most specimens, were 
 to replace the upper one, which I thought might drop periodi- 
 cally as the animal changed its skin and rattles. However, on 
 dissection of these from the ligament by which they were 
 attached to the ja^\ bones, I found them strongly and I think 
 permanently fixed there as follows. Two superior, or next to 
 the upper lips (I speak of one side of tiie jaws only), were well 
 connected at their bases and running parallel their whole length, 
 with apertures on the upper and lower sides of their bases to 
 receive the poison connectedly, and the discharging one a short 
 distance from the sharp point on the inner part of the fangs. 
 The next two fangs, about a quarter of an inch below, connected 
 and received in the same manner, but with only one base 
 aperture on the lower side of each, and the one at the point 
 which issues the poison to the wound. The fifth, rather smaller, 
 is also about a quarter of an inch below. The scales of the 
 belly, to the under part of the mouth, numbered one hundred 
 
 F 
 
 C 
 
 ? 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 ■< 
 
fiC. 
 
 \AVV, OK AUDUHON. 
 
 !■ ] 
 
 'I'll. 
 
 1111(1 sovonty, mid twcnty-tNMi fVoiii ihv V(>iit to the tiiil. 
 lirat (»f the went her wiis so gri'at that 1 could (hivotn only 
 sixtiM'ii lioiirH to till' druwiii;;'. 
 
 '* October 20. fifl't Hnyou Sam in tlie Riunapo, with a mcdli y 
 of j»MSS(>np'rM, and anivcij Hiirdy in New OrhMins. IMy loiii,'. 
 llowin;jf hair, and h)os!> yi'llow niinUccn drrsn, and the niilortMniilt' 
 cut of my features, iittractcfl much attention, and made me deHiiv 
 to he droHsed like other peojtle as hooii as possihle. My friends 
 the I'anuirs received mo kindly aivl raised my spirits; they 
 h)oked on me as a hou retnrn<'d irom a lon^ and danf^eroiis 
 voyaij:e, and children and servants as well as tho parents wem 
 all jj;lad to see me. 
 
 '* Odoher 25. Uentcd a house in Panphine Street at Rcvontecii 
 dollars per month, and determined to hrin^ my family to New 
 Orlejins. Since; I left Cincinnati, October 12, ]H2n, I havo 
 finislied sixty-two drawings of birds and phmts, three quadra- 
 jH'ds, two snakes, fifty portraits of all sorts, and h.ave 8ul>sistc(l 
 by my humble talents, not haviuf,^ had a dolhir when I started. 
 I sent a draft to my wife, and bejran life in New Orleans \\\\\\ 
 forty-two dollars, luuilth, and much anxiety to pursue my ])liui 
 of oollectinf); all tho birds of America." 
 
 Audubon speaks with boyish f^aiety of tho comfort which a 
 new suit of clothes gave him. Ho called on Mrs. Clay with his 
 drawings, but got no work — no pupils. H(> det(>rmiued to make 
 a public exhibition of his ornithological drawings. 
 
 Under date November 10, ho remarks : " ^Ir. Basterop called 
 on me, and wished mo to join bim in painting a panorama of 
 the city; but my birds, my beloved birds of America, occupy 
 all my time, and nearly all my thoughts, and I do not wish to 
 see any other perspp(!tivo than tho last specimen of these 
 drawings." 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 SQaATTEIl LiFK ON TIIK M IHSIHSIl'l'I — TlIK HjimnANTS ON TIIEIII WaY 
 — A I'ATUlAIlCHAIi .lol'UNKY — TlllO rilOMIHKI) LaNI) — AcHOHS TIIK 
 
 MissirtHiiTi — IIauiihuii'.s asm Fkvkii — riUMiiiouiNii IN TIIK Fak Weht 
 
 — UaIT VdVAdIv TO XkW OuI-KANH — COMFOUT AM) HiCHKH — TlIK 
 
 IIauits of TIIK OroHsuM — l!oiiiiKiiii':>< or Poui-tuy — A Couplk ok 
 I'kts in tin: "Auk" — A CoNHiiiNMKNT ok Opohkhms foii Kuiiopk — 
 
 CaNNIDAL ruOrKNSITIKS of TIIK riHSONKUrt. 
 
 AuDunoN relates many incidents of squatter life on tlio groat 
 American rivers. The features of this peculiar life struck him 
 with a picturesque force that makes his descriptions of the 
 constant emigrations from the east, and the settlement of tho 
 wamlerers in the west, v(*ry interesting indeed. In a detailed 
 account ho describes how tho settlers in Virginia became im- 
 poverished through tho reckless system of husbandry pursued, 
 and how, after suifering penury, they determined to emigrate 
 to more fertile lands. He thus graphically narrates tho patri- 
 archal wanderings of tho wearied wayfarers. 
 
 " I think I s(!0 them harnessing their horses, and attaching 
 them to their waggons, which are Iready fitted with bedding, 
 provisions, and the younger childrtiJ ; while on their outside 
 are fastened spinning-wlieels and looms, a bucket filled with 
 tar and tallow swings betwixt tho hiuw wheels. Several axes 
 are secured to the bolster, and the feeding-trough of the horses 
 contains pots, kettles, and pans. The servant now becomes a 
 driver, riding tho near saddled horse, tho wife is mounted on 
 another, the worthy husband shoulders his gun, and his sous, 
 clad in plain, substantial home-spun, drive the cattle ahead, and 
 
 F 2 
 
 C 
 I 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 f 
 u 
 
 til 
 ■•II 
 
 < 
 
68 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 lead the procession, followed by the hounds and other dogs. 
 Their dayV- journey is short and not agreeable. The cattle, 
 stubborn or wild, frequently leave the road for the woods, giving 
 the travellers much trouble ; the harness of the horses here and 
 there gives way, and immediate repair is needed. A basket 
 which has accidentally dropped must be gone after, for nothing 
 that they have can be spared. The roads are bad, and now and 
 then all hands are called to push on the ^*^•^ggon, or prevent it 
 from upsetting. Yet by sunset they have proceeded perhaps 
 twenty miles. Fatigued, all assemble round the fire, which has 
 been lighted ; supper is prepared, and a camp being run up, there 
 they pass the night. Days and weeks pass before they gain the 
 end of their journey. They have crossed both the Carolinas, 
 Georgia, and Alabama. They have been travelling from the 
 beginning of May to that of September, and with heavy hearts 
 they traverse the neighbourhood of Mississippi. But now arrived 
 on the banks of the broad stream, they gaze in amazement on the 
 dark deep woods around them. Boats of various kinds they see 
 gliding down\vards with the current, while others slowly ascend 
 against it. A few inquiries are made at the nearest dwelling, 
 and assisted by the inhabitants with their boats and canoes, they 
 at once cross the river, and select their place of habitation. 
 The exhalations arising from the swamps and jpaorasses around 
 them have a powerful effect on these new settlers, but all are 
 intent on preparing for the winter. A small patch of ground is 
 clear i by the axe and fire, a temporary cabin is erected ; to 
 each of the cattle is attached a bell before it is let loose into the 
 neighbouring cane-brake, and the horses remain about the 
 house, where they find sufficient food at that season. The first 
 trading boat that stops at their landing enables them to provide 
 themselves with some flour, fish-hooks, and ammunition, as well 
 Qt» other commodities. The looms are mounted, the spinning- 
 Avheels soon furnish some yarn, and in a few weeks the family 
 throw oft" their ragged clothes, and array themselves in suits 
 adapted to the climate. 
 
 " The father and sons meanwhile have sown turnips and other 
 vegetables ; and from some Kentucky flat-boat a supply of live 
 poultry has been purchased. October tinges the leaves of the 
 forest; the morning dews arc heavy; the days hot and the nights 
 
LUMBERING IN THE FAR WES'J'. 
 
 69 
 
 chill, and the unaccHmatised family in a few days are attacked 
 with ague. The lingering disease almost prostrates their whole 
 facultie?. Fortunately the unhealthy season soon passes over, 
 and the hoar frosts make their appearance. Gradually each 
 individual recovers strength. The largest asli trees are felled, 
 their trunks are cut, split, and corded in front of the building ; 
 a large tire is lighted at night on the edge of the water, and 
 soon a steamer calls to pnrchase the wood, and thus add to their 
 comforts during the winter. This first fruit of their industry 
 irapt^rty new courage to them ; their exertions multiply, and 
 when spring returns the place has a cheerful look. Venison, 
 bear'i flesh, and turkeys, ducks and geese, with now and then 
 some fish, have served to keep up their strength, and now their 
 enlarged field is planted with corn, potatoes, and pumpkins. 
 Their stock of cattle too has augmented : the steamer which 
 now stops there, as if by preference, buys a calf or a pig, together 
 with their wood. Their store of provisions is renewed, and 
 brighter rays of hope enliven their spirits. 
 
 " The sons discover a swamp covered with excellent timber, 
 and as they have seen many great rafts of saw logs, l)ound for 
 the saw mills of New Orleans, floating past their dwelling, they 
 resolve to try the success of a little enterprise. A few cross 
 saws are purchased, and some broad-wheeled " carry logs " are 
 made by themselves. Log after log is haxded to the bank of 
 the river, and in a short time their first raft is made on the 
 shore, and loaded with cordwood. When the next freshet sets 
 it afloat it is secured by long grape vines or cables ; until the 
 proper time being arrived, the husband and sons embark on it 
 and float down the mighty stream. After encountering many 
 difficulties, they arrive in safety at New Orleans, where they 
 dispose of their stock, the money obtained for which may be 
 said to be all profit ; supply themselves with such articles as 
 may add to their convenience or comfort, and with light hearts 
 procure a passage on the upper deck of a steamer at a very 
 cheap rate, on accoimt of the benefit of their labours in taking 
 in wood or otherwise. Every successive year has increased 
 their savings. They now possess a large stock of horses, cows, 
 and hogs, with abundance of provisions, and domestic cumforts 
 of every kind. The daughters have been married to the sons 
 
 1 ' 
 
 iU 
 
 
 c 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 t 
 
 r 
 » 
 
 > 
 i 
 
■'I • ', 
 
 & 
 
 70 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 of neighbouring squatters, and have gained sisters to themselves 
 by the maraage of their brothers." 
 
 He introduces, among other episodes of natural history, an 
 account of the habits of the opossum — "the dissimulator." 
 The walk of this animal he describes as an amble like that 
 of a young foal or a Newfoundland dog. Its movements 
 are rather slow — it travels across the snow-covered ground 
 about as fast as a man could walk — snuffing at every step for 
 traces of the prey it searclies after. Entering some cranny, it 
 pulls out a squirrel it has killed, and climbing a tree, secretes 
 itself among the thick branches to eat its repast. Exhausted 
 by himger in the early spring, the opossum will eat young frogs, 
 and the green growth of nettles and other succulent plants. 
 Unscared by the watchful crows the farmer has killed, the pest 
 creeps into the hen-house, eats the chickens, robs the hen of the 
 eggs she is sitting upon, and commits its devastations witli 
 address and adroitness. Prowling about after sunset it avoids 
 all sorts of precautions, and defies the farmer's guns and curs 
 alike. In the woods it eats tlie eggs of the wild turkey, and 
 ravenously devours the grapes of the grape vine. When 
 attacked, it rolls itself up like a ball, submits to be kicked and 
 maltreated without moving, feigns death, lies on the ground 
 with shut eyes, and cheats its assailants into the belief that it 
 has been destroyed. When its assailant has gone, life seemingly 
 suddenly returns, and regaining its feet, it scampers off to the 
 wilds. 
 
 *' Once while descending the ]\Iississippi, in a sluggish flat- 
 bottomed boat, expressly for the purpose of studying those 
 objects of nature more nearly connected with my favourite 
 pursuits, I chanced to meet with two well-grown opossums, and 
 brought them alive to the " ark." The poor things were placed 
 on the roof or deck, and were immediately assailed by the crew, 
 when, following their natural instinct, they lay as if quite dead- 
 An experiment was suggested, and both were tlirow'a overboard. 
 On striking the water, and for a few moments after, neither 
 evinced the least disposition to move; bi:t finding their situation 
 desperate, they began to swim towards our uncouth rudder, 
 which wjis formed of a long slender tree, extending from the 
 middle of the boat thirty feet beyond the stern. They both got 
 
8 to themselves 
 
 iral history, an 
 
 dissimulator." 
 
 mble like that 
 
 [ts movements 
 
 overed ground 
 
 every step for 
 
 3ome cranny, it 
 
 a tree, secretes 
 
 3t. Exhausted 
 
 at young frogs, 
 
 cculent plants. 
 
 killed, tiie pest 
 
 the hen of the 
 
 rastations with 
 
 unset it avoids 
 
 guns and curs 
 
 Id turkey, and 
 
 vine. When 
 
 be kicked and 
 
 n the ground 
 
 belief that it 
 
 ife seemingly 
 
 lers off to the 
 
 sluggish flat- 
 
 udying those 
 
 my favouriti' 
 
 )possums, and 
 
 s were placed 
 
 by the crew, 
 
 if quite dead- 
 
 v'a overboard. 
 
 ifter, neither 
 
 heir situation 
 
 outh rudder, 
 
 ng from the 
 
 hey both got 
 
 
 CANNIBAL PROPENSITIES OF OPOSSUMS. 
 
 71 
 
 upon it, were taken up, and afterwards let loose in their native 
 woods. 
 
 " in the year 1829, 1 was in a portion of Lower Louisiana, 
 where the opossum abounds at all seasons, and having been 
 asked by the President and Secretary of the Zoological Gardens 
 and Society of London to forward live animals of this species 
 to +hem, I oft'ered a price a little above the common, and soon 
 found myself plentifully supplied, twenty-five having been 
 brought to me. I found them extremely voracious, and not less 
 cowardly. They were put into a large box, with a great quan- 
 tity of food, and conveyed to a steamer bound to New Orleans. 
 Two days afterwards I went to the city, to see about sending 
 them off to Europe ; but to my surprise I foimd that the old 
 nia.'es had destroyed the younger ones, and eaten oft' their heatls, 
 .lucl that only sixteen remained alive. A separate box was 
 ])n:;chased for eac]>, and the cannibals were safely forwarded to 
 their destination." 
 
 ? 
 
 '^ 
 
 ID 
 
 ;)> 
 ■< 
 
■th ,: 
 
 72 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 CHAPTEE XVI. 
 
 Audubon hears his own Charactek curiously described — His Wife 
 AND Sons arrive at New Orleans — Difficulties of Obtaining a 
 Livelihood — Mrs. Audubon obliged to vciei'T a Situatioi' — Reso- 
 lution to leave for Natchez — Passage Money paid by Drawikc 
 the Portrait of the Captain and the Captain's Wife — P.tx-ol 
 lections of an Eccentric — A Grotesque Figure — A Bird-fanch-.;'. 
 AND an Artist — Rifle Practice in a Studio. 
 
 " Decemler 8. My wife and family arrived to-day by ste<nr'f3. 
 We dined witli our friend Mr. Pamar, and met my old iVi';j.d 
 Mr. Eosier in the evening. We reached our lodging;, aiid all 
 felt happy and comforted at the lairoion, pfter fourteen months 
 of separation." 
 
 For the first two months c?" i822, sh^ ^•i^i-yr-.i of Audubon's 
 life are sparse and imperfect, on account of his inability to 
 purchase a book to write his journal in ! The one at last ob- 
 tained was made of thin, poor paper, and the records entered 
 are rather in keeping with his financial difficulties. It took all 
 his means at this time to supply his family with the necessaries 
 of life, and in oi'der to obtain money to educate the children, his 
 wife undertook the duti(38 of a situation, in which she had charge 
 of and educated the offspring of a Mr. Brand. 
 
 "March 7. Spring is advancing, with many pleasant 
 associf tio)is, but my bodily health suffers from depression. I 
 hiiu^ I'.solv (^ to leave for Natchez, but grieve to leave my 
 family. My money is scarce, and I find great difficulty in 
 (dloi'vinj^r vhat is owing to me. 
 
 put 
 a pas| 
 portrs 
 
 portra 
 ing OH 
 severe 
 
AN ECCENTRIC PAINTER. 
 
 78 
 
 RiBED — His Wife 
 OF Obtain iNa a 
 SiTUATIOr — Ekso- 
 
 'AID BY DrAWIK( 
 
 's Wife— r7:L-;i, 
 
 -A BlRD-FAACn..'. 
 
 y Ly stei^Tfvj. 
 
 my old iVi'jiid 
 
 dging, and all 
 
 urteer* months 
 
 of Audubon's 
 
 inability to 
 
 le at last ob- 
 
 cords entered 
 
 It took all 
 
 le necessaries 
 
 cbildren, his 
 
 e had charge 
 
 uiy pleasant 
 epression. I 
 to leave my 
 difficulty in 
 
 " March 16. Paid all my bills in New Orleans, and having 
 put my baggago on board of the steamer, Eclat, obtained 
 a passage to Natchez in the steamer, in return for a crayon 
 portrait of the captain and his wife. 
 
 "March 19. Opened a chest with two hundred of my bird 
 portraits in it, and found them sorely damaged by the break- 
 ing of a bottle containing a quantity of gunpowder. I had 
 several portraits to draw during the passage. 
 
 ''March 24. One of the passengers accused Alexander 
 Wilson, the ornithologist, of intemperate habits, but I had the 
 satisfaction of defending his character from aspersion. I had 
 hope of success in Natchez, and soon expected to be followed 
 by my wife and family. My wife in the meantime remained at 
 Nfiw Orleans, in the family of Mr. Brand." 
 
 . 1 closing his recollections of New Orleans, Audubon relates 
 ai, amusing history of a painter, whose eccentricities fascinated 
 'ht naturalist. The genius was first observed by the natu- 
 ralist on the Levee at New Orleans, and his odd costume and 
 appearance are thus described : — 
 
 " His head was covered by a straw hat, the brim of which 
 'ight cope with those worn by the fair sex in 1830 ; his neck 
 was exposed to the weather ; the broad frill of a shirt, then 
 fashion able, flopped about his breast, whilst an extraordinary 
 collar, ^3arefully arranged, fell over the top of his coat. The 
 latter was of a light-green colour, harmonizing well with a pair 
 of flowing yellow nankeen trousers and a pink waistcoat, from 
 the bosom of which, amidst a large bunch of the splendid 
 flowers of the magnolia, protruded pai't of a young alligator, 
 which seemed more anxious to glide through the muddy waters 
 of a swamp than to spend its life swinging to and fro amongst 
 folds of the finest lawn. The gentleman held in one hand a 
 cage full of richly-plumed nonpareils, whilst in the other he 
 sported a silk umbrella, on which I could plainly read 'Stolen 
 from I,' these words being painted in large white characters. 
 He walked as if conscious of his own importance ; that is, 
 with a good deal of pomposity, singing, ' My love is but a lassie 
 yet ;' and that with such thorough imitation of the Scotch em- 
 phasis, that had not his physiognomy suggested another paren- 
 tage, I should have believed him to be a genuine Soot. A 
 
 tn 
 
 c 
 
 !? 
 
 t 
 
 f 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
74 
 
 LIFE OV AUDU1K)N. 
 
 narrower acquaintance proved him to be a Yankee ; and anxious 
 to make his acquaintance, I desired to see his birds. He 
 retorted, ' What the devil did I know about birds ?' I ex- 
 plained to him that I was a naturalist, whereupon he requested 
 me to examine his birds, I did so with some interest, and 
 was preparing to leave, when he bade me come to his lodgin;:;s 
 and see the remainder of his collection. This I willingly did, 
 and was struck with amazement at the appearance of his studio. 
 Several cages were hung about the walls, containing specimens 
 of birds, all of which I examined at my leisure. On a large 
 easel before me stood an unfinished jiortrait, other pictures 
 hung about, and in the room were two young pupils ; and at a 
 glance I discovered that the eccentric stranger was, like myself, 
 a naturalist and an artist. The artist, as modest as he was odd, 
 showed me how he laid on the paint on his pictures, asked after 
 my own pursuits, and showed a friendly spirit which enchanted 
 me. With a ramrod for a rest, he prosecuted his work vigo- 
 rously, and aiterwards asked me to examine a percussion lock 
 on his gim. a novelty to me at the tinu He snapped some 
 caps, and on my remarking that he would trjghten his birds, he 
 exclaimed, ' Devil take the birds, there are more of them in the 
 market.' He then load(>(l his gun, and wishing to show me that 
 he was a marksman, tired at one of the pins on his easel. This 
 he smashed to pieces, and i iterwards put a rille bullet exactly 
 through the hole into vvhich the pin fitted." 
 
 r 
 
; and anxious 
 s birds. Ho 
 rds?' I ex- 
 he requested 
 interest, and 
 u his lodginffs 
 willingly did, 
 '■ of his studio, 
 ing speeinieus 
 On a large 
 ither pictures 
 pils ; and at a 
 s, like myself, 
 is he was odd, 
 's, asked after 
 ich enchanted 
 lis work vigo- 
 L'rcussion lock 
 snapped some 
 I his birds, he 
 f them in the 
 how me that 
 easel. This 
 ullet exiictly 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Audubon's Abrival at Natchkz — Er.'OAOKMKNT from Mr. Quaclass — 
 Engagement to teach Drawing at Wabhington College — Attack 
 OF Fever — Engagement with !Mr, Brevost — Raffle of a Drawing, 
 AND Results — Arrival of Mrs. Aududon at Natchez — Her Engage- 
 ment with Mrs. Perry — Auduuon studies Oil Painting — Detehmina- 
 tion to go on an Expedition with his Friend, the Artist, Stein 
 — The Naturalist lets loose his Pet Birds — Visit to Bayou Sara, 
 and Residence at Jackson — A De\ of Gamblers — Arrangement 
 to Stay with the Perrys — Attack of Fever, and care of Mrs. 
 Audubon — Leaves for Louisville with his son Victor — Arrival 
 W IN THE Ohio, and Wanderings through the Wilds. 
 
 fi 
 
 ll The voyage up the IMississippi to Natchez appears to have 
 
 " been without any circumstance of importance. Under date 
 March 24tli, 1822, the naturalist records the lact that he had 
 arrived at Natchez. " I went ashore to see after work — called 
 on Mr. Quigley, who received me cordially. I had prospects 
 of an engagement with Mr. Quaglass, a Portuguese gentleman, 
 who wished me to give lessons in drawing and music and 
 French to his daughter, thirteen years of age. I was recei^■ed at 
 his house, and received a welcome from his wife. Mr. Quaglass 
 arrived at home in the evening, and his appearance was by no 
 means [»repossessing. His small grey eyes, and corrugated 
 brows, did not afford me an opportunity of passing a favourable 
 judgment. My time has been mostly engaged in hunting, 
 drawing, and attending to my charge. I constantly regret the 
 separation from my family." 
 Ere long he got an appointment to teach drawing in the 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 
 
 T 
 
 ID 
 
 ;3i 
 
 3 
 
76 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 college at Washington, nine miles from Natchez. He sent for 
 his sons, and put them to school at Washington, but was depressed 
 in spirits because his work interfered with his ornithological 
 pursuits. 
 
 " July 8. Constant exposure in the tropical climate, and the 
 fatigue of my journeys to and from Washington, brought on fever 
 and a renewal of a certain kind doctor's attendance, who not only 
 would accept of no remuneration, but actually insisted on my 
 taking his purse to pay for the expenses connected with the 
 education of my sons. Shortly afterwards I made an engagement 
 with Mr. Brevost to teach drawing in an academy just opened 
 in Natchez by that gentleman. But while work flowed upon 
 me, the hope of completing my book upon the birds of America 
 became less clear ; and full of despair, I feared my hopes of 
 becoming known to Europe as a naturalist were destined to be 
 blasted. I wrote to my wife to join me at Natchez, and there 
 was hopes of it being accomplished. 
 
 '^July 23. My friend, Joseph Mason, left me to-day, and 
 we experienced gi-eat pain at parting. I gave him paper and 
 chalks to work his way with, and the double-barrelled gun I 
 had killed most of my birds with, and which I had purchased at 
 Philadelphia in 1805. I also began to copy the 'Death of 
 Montgoiiw "y,' from a print. My drawing was highly praised by 
 my friends at Natchez, and Dr. Provan, like a good genius, 
 insisted it should be raifled. I valued it at three hundred dollars, 
 and Dr. Provan soid all the tickets but one, at ten dollars each. 
 He then put my name down for that, saying he hoped it would 
 be the winning one. The raffle took place in my absence, and 
 when I returned, my friend the doctor came and brought me 
 three hundred dollars and the picture, beautifully framed, saying, 
 ' Your number has drawn it, and the subscribers are all agx-eed 
 that no one is more deserving of it than yourself.' " 
 
 " September 1. My wife writes to me that the child she was 
 in charge of is dead, and that consequently she had determined 
 to come on to Natchez. I received her with great pleasure at 
 the lauding, and immediately got a house hired, in which we 
 might resume housekeeping. In the mean time my wife engaged 
 with a clergyman named Davis, in a situation similar to that 
 which she had held in New Orleans. I was much pleased with 
 
He sent for 
 
 t was depressed 
 
 ornithological 
 
 imate, and the 
 rought on fever 
 ), who not only 
 nsisted on my 
 cted with the 
 ,n engagement 
 lyjnst opened 
 k flowed upon 
 rds of America 
 I my hopes of 
 destined to be 
 ihez, and there 
 
 3 to-day, and 
 
 him paper and 
 
 irrelled gun I 
 
 1 purchased at 
 
 le 'Death of 
 
 ily praised by 
 
 ^ood genius, 
 
 ndred dollars, 
 
 dollars each. 
 
 oped it would 
 
 absence, and 
 
 d brought me 
 
 amed, saying, 
 
 ire all agreed 
 
 hild she was 
 I determined 
 pleasure at 
 in which we 
 wife engaged 
 ailar to that 
 pleased with 
 
 LNTHODUCTION TO THE ARTIST, STEIN. 
 
 77 
 
 the conduct of Mr. Qiiaglass, whose kindness of heart very much 
 belied his coarse exterior. 
 
 " October 27. I mcjt a gentleman from ]\rexico, who proposed 
 to mo to go to Mexico and establish a paper mill in that 
 country. He proposed to supi)ly the funds if I took care of the 
 mill. At Natchez I met Mr. IMurray, formerly of Cliarleston, 
 and Mr. Blackburn, formerly of Cincinnati. They had both 
 suffered heavy reverses of fortune, and appeared to me to be in 
 distress. Their change of fortune was sufficient to reconcile mo 
 to my own vexations. 
 
 " Novemher 3. While engaged in sketching a view of Natchez, 
 an English gentleman named Seacock was introduced to me as 
 a naturalist. He called and spent the evening with me, and 
 examined my drawings, and advised me to visit England and 
 take them with me. But when he said I should probably have 
 to spend several years to perfect them, and to make myself 
 known, I closed my drawings and turned my mind from the 
 thought. ]\[y wife, finding it difficult to get her salary for 
 teaching, has resolved to relinquish her situation." 
 
 In December there arrived at Natchez a portrait-painter, 
 from whom Audubon received his first lessons in the use of oil 
 colours, and who was in return instructed by the naturalist in chalk 
 drawing. Mrs. Audubon was desirous that her husband should 
 go to Europe, and obtain complete instruction in the use of 
 oil; and with this aim in view she entered into an engage- 
 ment with a Mrs. Perry to educate her children, along with her 
 own and a limited number of pupils. Mrs. Per vy lived at 
 Bayou Sara, and tliither Mrs. Audubon removed, while her 
 husband remained at Natchez, painting with his friend Stem, 
 the artist w hose instructions in oil painting had been so valuable. 
 After enjoying all the patronage to be expected at Natchez, 
 Audubon and his friend Stein resolved to start on an ex- 
 pedition as perambulating portrait-painters ; and purchasing a 
 waggon, prepared for a long expedition through the Southern 
 States. 
 
 -I hid finally determined to break through all bonds, and 
 pursue my ornithological pursuits. My best friends solemnly 
 regarded me as a madman, and my wife and family alone gave 
 me encouragement. My wife alone determined that my genius 
 
 <5 
 
 r 
 
 III 
 
 'ill 
 
ill 
 
 78 
 
 lilFE OF AUDTTl^ON. 
 
 should prcviiil, inul thut uiy final Buccesa ns un ornithologist 
 should he triumphant. 
 
 *^ March, 1S2J5. ]\Iy piopamtionH for leaving Natehoz almost 
 com))i(?to. 
 
 "May 1. Left J\Ir. Pony's on a visit to Jackson, Miasissipi)], 
 which I found to bo a mean phioo, a rendezvous for gambler.s 
 and vagabonds. Disgusted with the place and the people, I 
 left it and returned to my wife. I agreed to remain with the 
 Perrys throughout the summer, and toaeh the young ladies 
 music and drawing. I continued to exercise myself in painting 
 with oil, and greatly improved myself. I undertook to paint 
 the portraits of my wife's pupils, but found their complexions 
 difficult to transfer to canvas. On account of some misunder- 
 standing, I left the Perrys and returned to Natchez, btit did not 
 know w lint course to follow. I thought of going to Philadelphia, 
 and again thought of going to Louisville and once more entering 
 upon mercantile pursuits, but hud no money to move any- 
 where." 
 
 During a visit to a plantation near Natchez, both he and his 
 son Victor were attacked with fever, and ]\[rs. Audubon hastened 
 to nurse both of them. 
 
 " September 8. I was asked to go and recruit my health at 
 the Perrys', and I went to Bayou Sara. I sent on my drawings 
 to Philadelphia, and resolved to visit that city and obtain em- 
 ployment as a teacher. 
 
 " September 30. Sold a note for services in Natchez, and with 
 proceeds took steamer to New Orleans. 
 
 " October 3. Left New Orleans for Jventucky, where I in- 
 tended to leave my son Victor with my wife's relations, and 
 proceed on my travels. I left Bayou Sara with my son Victor 
 on board the steamer Magnet, bound for the Ohio, and was 
 kindly treated by Captain IMcKnight, the commander. After a 
 pleasant voyage we arrived at the beautiful village of Trinity, 
 but found the water too low ibr further navigation. I had 
 resolved to jaisli on my journey, if Victor was strong enough to 
 undertake the exertion. Other two passengers desired to ac- 
 company us, and after I had left iny luggage to the care of the 
 tavern-keepcsr, our party crossed (^ash Creek, at which I had 
 before spent a pleasant time, and pushed across the country. 
 
WANDERINGS TIIUOUOII THE WILDS. 
 
 TO 
 
 Iiez, and with 
 
 Victor, who wns scatrcly fourt(>oii, was a lively boy, and had no 
 fi'rti' of fiuliiif;, (^loavin;? our way, Tndian-filo fashicm, thmii'ih 
 tho VMM) i/rakcrt — lliroufjjh tlio burnt I'on'st — llinmjrh tho l)rush- 
 wdod-clad banks of tho vivor, and alon;i^ tho pebbly Hhoro, wo 
 reached, after twelve miles' walkiii";, the village of America. 
 After refresliinp: ourselves we covered another seven miles, and 
 reached a cabin, where we were well received by a (squatter 
 family. 
 
 "After a bath in the Ohio, my son and myself joined the rest, 
 and wo enjoycfd au excellent supper, and a capital sleep in such 
 beds as could be provided. Wo rose at break of day and left 
 our kind host and hostess, who would receive no pecuniary 
 reward. At seven miles further wo found an excellent breakfast 
 at a house owned by a very la/y fellow, whose beautiful wife 
 api)eared to be superior tt) her station, and who conducted tho 
 lionsehold affairs in a very agreeable manner. Wo left a dollar 
 with one of the children, and pursued our way along tho beach 
 of the Ohio. After proceeding some distance, my son Victor 
 broke down, but after a rest he suddf^dy revived at the sight of 
 a wild tui'key, and resumed his journey in good spirits. We 
 reached IJelgrnde and continuod our jtairney. Towards sunset 
 we rcacluMl tho shores of the river, opposite the mouth of tho 
 Cumberland. On a hill, tin; j)i'operty of ]\Iajor B., wo fomid a 
 house and a solitary woman, wretchedly poor, bnt very kind. 
 She assured us that if we could not cross the river, she would 
 give us food and shelter for the night, but said that as tho 
 moon was up, she could get us put over when Iut skitf came 
 back. Hungry and fatigued, we hiy down on the brown grass, 
 waiting either a scanty meal, or the skiff that was to convey 
 us across tho river. I had alieady grated the corn for our 
 supper, run down the chickens, -i^id made a fire, when a cry of 
 ' lioat coming !' roused us all. We crossed the river Ohio, and 
 I again found myself in Kentucky, the native state of my two 
 sons. We then pursued our onward journey, but my son 
 suffered sorely from lameness. As we trudged along, nothing 
 remarkable occurred excepting that we saw a fine black wolf, 
 quite tamo and gentle, the owner of which had refused a 
 hundred dollars for it. I\Ir. Rose, who was an engineer, and a 
 man of taste, played on the flageolet to lighten our journey. 
 
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 LIFE OP AUDUBON. 
 
 At aji orchard we filled our pockets with October peaches, and 
 when we came to Trade Water river we found it low; the 
 acorns were already drifted on its shallows, and the ducks were 
 running about picking them up. Passing a flat bottom, we saw 
 a large buifalo lick. 
 
 " We reached Highland Lick, where we stumbled on a cabin, 
 the door of which we thrust open, overturning a chair that had 
 been put behind it. On a dirty bed lay a man, a table, with a 
 journal, or perhaps ledger, before him, a small cask in the 
 comer near him, a brass pistol on a nail over his head, and a 
 long Spanish dagger by his side. He arose and asked what we 
 wanted? 'The way to a better place, the road to Sugg's.' 
 * F-^llow the road, and you will get to his house in about five 
 miles.' Separating from our companions, who were unable to 
 proceed at the same pace, we reached Green Eiver, were ferried 
 across, and shortly afterwards reached Louisville." 
 
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CHAPTEE XVin. 
 
 m. 
 
 Residence at Louisville — Paintino the Falls of the Ohio— An 
 Adventueb in the Woods — Floods of the Mississippi — The Waste 
 OF Waters — ^Thb Flooded Forest — Slaughter of Game — Bears 
 AND Lynxes Hiding in Trees. 
 
 "On the 25th October, 1822," writes Audubou, "I entered 
 Louisville with thirteen dollars in my pocket. I found my 
 friends very cool, and my position very insecure. My son 
 Victor I managed to get into the counting-house of a friend, 
 and I engaged to paint the interior of a steamer. I was advised 
 to make a painting of the falls of the Ohio, and commenced 
 the work. 
 
 "November 9. Busy at work, when the weather permitted, 
 and resolved to paint one hundred views of American scenery, 
 I shall not be surprised to find myself seated soon at the foot 
 of Niagara." 
 
 While painting he mainly resided at Shipping Port, a little 
 village near Louisville. In his journey between Green Eiver 
 and Louisville, he took conveyance in a cart, the owner 
 agreeing to drive the distance. In doing so, the driver 
 missed his route, and in a storm went far off the way. The 
 horses instinctively led the way to a log hut, inhabited by a 
 newly-married pair, who did their utmost to show befitting 
 hospitality. In the midst of a hurricane the host rode off to his 
 father's, some miles distant, for a keg of cider ; the wife baked 
 bread and roasted fowls, and finally determined to sleep on the 
 floor, so that the strangers might ha"ve the comfort of a bed. 
 
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 82 LIFE OP AUDUBON. 
 
 Of such hospitality Audnhon speaks higlily, and seems to 
 lament its decadence among residents in the more civilised 
 states of the Union. Some notes upon the offects of the floods 
 which swell American rivers into inland seas are also contained 
 in the journal of his residence at Louisville. Writing of 
 the devastation created by overflows of the Mississippi, he 
 remarks : — 
 
 " The river rises until its banks are flooded and the levees 
 overflown. It then sweeps inland, over swamps, prairie, 
 and forest, until the country is a turbid ocean, checkered by 
 masses and strips of the forest, through whicli the flood rolls 
 lazily down cypress-shadowed glades under the gloomy pines, 
 and into unexplored recesses, where the trailing vine and um- 
 brageous foliage dim the light of the noonday sun. In islets 
 left amid the waste, deer in thousands are driven ; and the squatter, 
 with his gun and canoe, finds on these refuges the game which he 
 slaughters remorselessly for the skins or feathers that will sell. 
 Floating on a raft made fast by a vine rope to some stout trees, 
 the farmer and his family preserve their lives, while the stream 
 bears away their habitation, their cut wood, their stores of grain, 
 their stock, and all their household goods. From creeks of the 
 forest other rafts float, laden with produce for New Orleans, and 
 guided by adventurous boatmen who have but vague knowledge 
 of their devious way, and to whom the navigation of an inland 
 river is not less hazardous than a voyage on a stormy sea 
 would be. 
 
 "I have floated on the Mississippi and Ohio when thus 
 swollen, and have in different places visited the submerged 
 lands of the interior, propelling a light canoe by the aid of 
 a paddle. In this manner I have traversed immense portions 
 of the coiintry overflowed by the waters of these rivers, and 
 particularly whilst floating over the Mississippi bottom lands 
 I have been struck with awe at the sight. Little or no current 
 is met with, unless when the canoe passes over the bed of a 
 bayou. All is silent and melancholy, unless when the mournful || 
 bleating of the hemmed-in deer reaches your ear, or the dismal 
 scream of an eagle or a heron is heard, or the foul bird rises, 
 disturbed by your approach, from the carcass on which it was 
 allaying its craving appetite. Bears, cougars, lynxes, and all 
 
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QUADRUPEDS HIDING IN TREES, 
 
 83 
 
 , and seems to 
 more civilised 
 ;ts of the floods 
 e also contained 
 le. Writing of 
 Mississippi, he 
 
 and the levees 
 wamps, prairie, 
 n, checkered by 
 
 the flood rolls 
 e gloomy pines, 
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 jr sun. In islets 
 and the squatter, 
 e game which he 
 3rs that will sell, 
 some stout trees, 
 while the stream 
 ir stores of grain, 
 )ra creeks of the 
 
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 ion of an inland 
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 )hio when thus 
 the submerged 
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 foul bird rises, 
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 Ivnxes, and all 
 
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 other quadrupeds that can ascend the trees, are observed 
 crouched among their top branches; hungry in the midst of 
 abundance, although they see floating around them the animals 
 on which they usually prey. They daro not venture to swim 
 to them. Fatigued by the exertions which they have made in 
 reaching dry land, they will there stand the hunter's fire, as if 
 to die by a ball were better than to perish amid the \vaste 
 of waters. On occasions like this, all these animals are shot by 
 hundreds. 
 
 "Opposite the city of Natchez, which stands on a blufif 
 bank of considerable elevation, the extent of inundated land 
 is immense, the greater portion of the tract lying between the 
 Mississippi and the Ked Kiver, which is more than thirty miles, 
 being under water." 
 
 
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 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
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 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 A0DCBON REACHES PHILADELPHIA — CaLLS ON HIS OLD FrIEKD Dr. MeASE, 
 
 AND KIND Reception — Introduction to Sully the Painter," ant 
 
 RECEIVES ORATUITOUS INSTRUCTION IN PaINTING IN OlL — InTKODUCTION 
 
 TO THE Printr OF Canino — The Prixce's Volume on Ornithology, 
 AND Illustrations — Acquaintance with Le Sueur — A Gigantic 
 Engraver — Engagement with Prince Canino — Meetings with 
 Rosier and Joseph Mason — Advised to take his Drawings to 
 England — Coldness of Prince Canino — Unable to Decide upon a 
 proper Course — Visit to Mill Grove and Fatland — Dr. Harlan's 
 extreme Kindness — A noble Gift — Letters of Introduction. 
 
 Audubon reached Philadelphia on April 5, 1824. The journey 
 to that city was undertaken as a desperate venture to obtain 
 help to complete his ornithological work, and he was soon satis- 
 fied that the venture would be successful. 
 
 " I purchased a new suit of clothes, and dressed myself with 
 extreme neatness ; after which I called upon Dr. Mease, an 
 old friend. I was received with kindness, and was introduced 
 to a German named Earle, who exhibited my drawings. I was 
 also introduced to several artists, who paid me pleasant attentions, 
 and I also obtained entrance to the Philadelphia Athenaeum 
 and Pliilosophical Library. I was fortunate in obtaining an 
 introduction to the portrait-painter, Sully, a man after my own 
 heart, and who showed me great kindnesses. He was a beau- 
 tiful singer, and an artist whose hints and advice were of great 
 service to me. I afterwards saw Sully in London, where he was 
 painting a portrait of the Queen of England, and had an 
 opportunity of returning his kindnesses. 
 
 IP 
 
INTRODUCTION" TO PRINCK OANINO. 
 
 86 
 
 " April 10. I was introduced to the Prince Canine, son of 
 Liicien, and nephew of Napoleon Buonaparte, who examined 
 my birds, and was complimentary in his praises. He was 
 at the time engaged on a volume of American birds, which 
 was soon to be published ; but this did not prevent him from 
 admiring another naturalist's work. 
 
 " AprU 12. Met the prince at Dr. Mease's, and he expressed 
 a wish to examine my drawings more particularly. I found 
 him very gentlemanly. He called in his carriage, took me to 
 Peel, the artist who was drawing specimens of birds for his 
 work ; but from Avant of knowledge of the habits of birds in 
 a wild state, he represented them as if seated for a portrait, 
 instead of with their own lively animated ways when seeking 
 tlieir natural food or pleasure. Other notable persons called 
 to see my drawings, and encouraged me witii their remarks. 
 The Prince of Canino introduced me to the Academy of Arts 
 and Sciences, and pronounced my birds superb, and worthy of a 
 pupil of David. I formed the acquaintance of Le Sueur, the 
 zoologist and artist, who was greatly delighted with my drawings. 
 
 " A^yril 14. After breakfast met the prince, who called 
 with me on Mr. Lawson, the engraver of Mr. Wilson's plates. 
 This gentleman's figure nearly reached the roof, his face was 
 sympathetically long, and his tongue was so long that we 
 obtained no opportunity of speaking in his company. Lawson 
 said my drawings were too soft, too much like oil paintings, and 
 objected to engrave them. Mr. Pairman we found to be an 
 engraver better able to appreciate my drawings, but lie strongly 
 advised me to go to England, to have them engraved in a 
 superior manner. 
 
 " April 15. I obtained a room, and commenced work in 
 earnest. Prince Canino engaged me to superintend his drawings 
 intended for publication, but my terms being much dearer than 
 Alexander Wilson asked, I was asked to discontinue this work. 
 I had now determined tb go to Europe with my 'treasures,' 
 since I was assured nothing so fine in the way of oriiithological 
 representations existed. I worked incessantly to complete my 
 series of drawings. On inquiry, I found Sully and Le Sueur 
 made a poor living by their brush. I had some pu[)ils ofU'ered 
 ut a dollar per lesson ; but I found the citizens unwilling 
 
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 LIFE OP A urn; BON. 
 
 to pay for art, although tliey affected to patronize it. I ex- 
 hibited my drawings for a week, but found the show did not pay, 
 and so determined to remove myself. I was introduced to 
 Mr. Ensel of Boston, an entomologist, then engaged upon a work 
 on American spiders. Those interested in Wilson's book on the 
 American birds advised me not to pnblisli, and not only cold 
 water, but ice, was poured upon my undertaking. Had a visit 
 from my old pailner Rosier, who was still thirsting for money. 
 
 "May 30. My dear friend Joseph Mason paid me a de- 
 lightful visit to-day. Showed all my drawings to Titian Peel, 
 who in return refused to let me see a new bird in his possession. 
 This little incident fills me with grief at the narrow spirit of 
 humanity, and makes me wish for the solitude of the woods. 
 
 "June 12. Giving lessons in drawing at thirty dollars per 
 month. A visit from Rembrandt Peel, who liked my drawings, 
 and asked me to his studio, where I saw his portrait of General 
 Wasliington, but preferred the style of Sully. Had a visit from 
 Mr. Murtrie, the naturalist, whose study of shells has made 
 him famous. He advised me to take my drawings to England. 
 I labour assiduously at oil painting. I have now been twenty- 
 five years pursuing my ornithological studies. Prince Canino 
 often visited me and admired my drawings. He advised me to 
 go to France, but he replied coldly to my application for aid to 
 carry out this purpose. The French consul was warmer in his 
 sympathies, and kind in his encouraging assurances. 
 
 "June 26. Anxious to carry out my project of a visit to 
 Europe — anxious to see my wife before leaving — anxious to see 
 my old quarters of Mill Grove — anxious to get more instruction 
 from my kind master, Sully; and altogether unable to settle 
 what course would be the more preferable. 1 was rejoiced at 
 the progress I made in oil painting, and was overwhelmed 
 with the goodness of Sully, who would receive no recompense 
 for his instructions, and gave me all the possible encouragement 
 which his affectionate heart could dictate. 
 
 " July 12. Visited by Mr. Gilpin, who thirty-three years ago 
 discovered the lead ore on Mill Grove. Called on Dr. Harlan, 
 an amiable physician and naturalist, and a member of the 
 Academy of Arts and Sciences. Gave him some of my draw- 
 ings, and he promised me letters to the Royal Academy of 
 
VISIT TO MILL GROVE. 
 
 87 
 
 France, and afterwards nominated me for membership to the 
 Academy in Philadelpliia. He was one of the best men I have 
 met with in the city, and the very best among the naturalists." 
 
 This was the beginning of a warm friendship between these two 
 good men, which incr«>ased with time, and histed until the doctor 
 died. At the same time Audubon formed a friendship with 
 Edward Hands, a young ornithologist of reiinement, wealth, and 
 education, who outlived Audubon, and extended prompt relief 
 to his wife during her distress after her husband's death. 
 When the naturalist was about to leave Philadeli)hia, Hands 
 purchased some of his drawings, and on being offered his picture 
 of the Falls of the Ohio, at a sacrifice, declined the purchase, 
 but as he was saying good-bye, squeezed a hundred-dollar bill 
 into his friend's hand, saying, " Mr. Audubon, accept this from 
 me ; men like you ought not to want for money." 
 
 " I could only express my gratitude by insisting on his receiving 
 the drawings of all my French birds, which he did, and I was 
 relieved. This is the second instance of disinterested generosity I 
 have met with in my life, the good Dr. Provan of Natchez being 
 the other. And now I have in hand one hundred and thirty dollars 
 to begin my journey of three thousand miles. Before this I 
 have always thought I could work my way through the world 
 by my industry ; but I see that I shall have to leave here, as 
 Wilson often did without a cent in my pocket. 
 
 " July 26. Reuben Haines, a generous friend, invited me to 
 visit Mill Grove in his carriage, and I was impatient until the 
 day came. His wife, a beautiful woman, ond her daughter, 
 accompanied us. On the way my heart swelled with many 
 thoughts of what my life had been there, of the scenes I had 
 passed through since, and of my condition now. As we entered 
 the avenue leading to Mill Grove, every step brought to my 
 mind the meiuory of past years, and I was bewildered by the 
 recollections until we reached the door of the house, which had 
 once been the residence of my father as well as myself. The 
 cordial welcome of JMr. WathercU, the owner, was extremely 
 agreeable. After resting a few moments, 1 abruptly took my 
 hat and i"an wildly towards the woods, to the grotto where I 
 first heard from my wife the acknowledgment that I was not 
 indifferent to her. It had been torn down, and sonn.' i-tones 
 
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 88 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 carted away ; but raiaing my eyes towards heaven, I repeated 
 the promise we had mutually made. We dined at Mill Grove, 
 and as I entered the parlour I stood motionless for a moment on 
 the spot where my wife and myself were for ever joined. Every- 
 body was kind to me, and invited me to come to the Grovo 
 whenever I vidted Pennsylvania, and 1 returned full of delight. 
 Gave Mr. Haines my portrait, drawn by myself, on condition 
 that he should have it copied in case of my death before 
 making another, and send it to my wife. 
 
 " Jiily 31 . Engaged in preparations for leaving Philadelphia, 
 where I received many letters of introduction. Among them 
 are the following : — 
 
 « ' Dear Sir, " ' Gilbert Stuart, Esq., 
 
 " ' It is hardly necessary for Mr. Audubon to take credentials 
 for an introduction to you ; the inspection of one of his drawings 
 of birds will be sufficient recommendation to your notice. Yet 
 an acquaintance with him of several months enables me to 
 speak of him as a man, and I would consent to forfeit all claims 
 to discernment of character if he does not merit your esteem. 
 
 " * Sincerely your friend, 
 
 "'Thomas Sully.'" 
 
 " ' Dear Sir, " ' Washington Alston, Esq., 
 
 " ' Mr. Audubon will call on you with this, and will be pleased 
 to show you specimens of his drawings in ornithology. He is 
 engaged in preparing a work on this subject for publication, 
 which for copiousness and talent bids fair in my estimation to 
 surpass all that has yet been done, at least in this country. I 
 have great esteem for the character of Mr. Audubon, and am 
 pleased to make him known to you, though I should hesitate to 
 give a letter of introduction to you in favour of an ordinary 
 person, knowing that your time is precious ; but in the pr^^sent 
 instance I run no risk of intrusion. I shall always remember 
 
 you with affectionate regard. 
 
 " * Sincerely your friend, 
 
 "'Thomas Sully.'" 
 
 A letter of similar import was given by Mr. Sully to Colonel 
 Trumbull. 
 
 •iliillil.r, 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Audubon lkaves Puiladelphi -ABRivAii at New York— Mketinq with 
 Joseph Buonaparte — Introduction to the New York Lyceum, and 
 Keception by the Members — Inquiries auout the Publication of his 
 Volume on Birds, and Dismal Anticipations — Leaves New Yo-"-, 
 AND Arrival at Albany — Visit to Niagara, and Extraordinary 
 Impressions — Passage in Schooner across Lake Erie — Storm, and 
 Rescue of Drawings — Adventures at Meadville — Arrival and IIe- 
 CEPTioN AT Pittsburg. 
 
 " August 1, 1824. I left Philadelphia for New York yesterday 
 at five o'clock in good health, free from debt and free from 
 anxiety about the future. On arriving at New York a cart 
 took our luggage to our lodgings, and about one hundred 
 passengers perched about us, as I have seen chimney swallows 
 perched on a roof before their morning flight. I felt happy 
 and comfortable in the city, and sauntered about admiring 
 its beautiful streets and landings. I found most of the parties 
 to whom I carried letters of introduction absent, and I already 
 began to regret leaving Philadelphia so hurriedly. I began to 
 consider whether I should visit Albany or Boston, in the hope 
 of improving my financial position. 
 
 " August 2. Met Joseph Buonaparte, and his two daughters, 
 and his nephew, Charles, Prince of Canino. Visited the museum 
 at New York, and found the specimens of stuffed birds set up in 
 unnatural and constrained attitudes. This appears to be the 
 universal practice, and the world owes to me the adoption of the 
 plan of drawing from animated nature. Wilson is the only one 
 who has in any tolerable degree adopted my plan. 
 
 " August 3. Called on Vanderlyn, and was kindly received by 
 
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 LIFK OF AUDUnON. 
 
 him. Examinod his piotnros with ploiisuro, and saw tho niedivl 
 given him by Napoleon, bnt was not impressed with tho id(!a 
 that he was a great painter. 
 
 *' August 4. Called on Dr. Mitchell with my letters of intro- 
 duction, who gave mo a kind letter of introduction to his friend 
 Dr. Barmies, explaining that I wished to show my drawings to 
 the members of tho Lyceum, and become a member of that 
 institution. 
 
 " August 0. I have been making inquiries regarding tho 
 publication of my drawings in Now York; but find that tliero 
 is little prospect of tho undertaking being favourably received. 
 I have reason to suspect that unfriendly communications have 
 been sent to the publishers from Pliiladelphia, by parties into- 
 rested in Wilson's volume, and who have represented that my 
 drawings have not been wholly done by myself. Full of despair, 
 I look to Europe as my oidy hope. With my friend Dr. De Kay 
 I visited the Lyceum, and my portl'olio was examined by the 
 members of tho institute; among whom I felt awkward and 
 uncomfortable. After living among such peo^do I feel clouded 
 and de])resscd. Ilemember that I have done nothing, and fear 
 I may die unknown. I feel I am strange to all but the birds of 
 America. In a few days I shall be in the woods and quite 
 forgotten. 
 
 " August 10. My spirits low, and long for the woods again ; 
 but the prospect of becoming known prompts me to remain 
 another day. Met the artist Vanderlyn, who asked mo to 
 give him a sitting for a portrait of General Jackson, since my 
 figure considerably resembled that of the General, more than 
 any he had ever seen. I likewise sketched my landlady and 
 child, and filled my time. 
 
 " August 15. Sailed up the Hudson for Albany with three 
 hundred and seventy-five passengers, twenty-three of whom 
 were composed of a delegation of Indians from six tribes, who 
 were returning to the AVest from Washington. Arrived at 
 Albany, but found both Dewitt Clinton and Dr. Beck absent. 
 Money getting scarce, I abandoned the idea of visiting Boston, 
 but determined to see Niagara. Engaged a passage at seven 
 dollars on a canal-boat for llochester, N. V., distant two hundred 
 and sixty-eight miles. No incident happened to me worth 
 
 ii 
 
VISIT TO THE FALLS OF 1 lAOAUA. 
 
 91 
 
 recording, only that tho passongors woro doubtful whether or 
 not I was a government odicer, conunissioner, or spy. I oh- 
 taniod some now birds by tho way, and in six days I arrived at 
 Uot'hester. 
 
 " lioelieater, August 22. Five years ago there were but few 
 buildings hero, and the population is now five thousand; tho 
 bunkrt of the river are lined with mills and factories. Tho 
 beautiful falls of tho Genesee liivor, about eighty feet high and 
 four times as broad, I have visited, and have made a slight 
 aketch of them. One and a half miles btdow is another full of 
 the same height, but the water is much more broken in its 
 descent. 
 
 "August 24. Took passage for Buffalo, arrived safely, and 
 passed a sleepless night, as most of my nights have been since 
 I began my wanderings. Loft next morning for tho Falls of 
 Niugtira : the country is poor, the soil stiff white olay, and tho 
 people aro lank and sallow. Arrived at tho hotel, found but 
 few visitors, recorded my name, artd wrote under it, ' who, 
 like Wilson, will ramble, but never, like that great man, die 
 under the lash of a bookseller.' 
 
 " All trembling I I'eaehed the Falls of Niagara, and oh, what a 
 scene ! my blood shudders still, although I am not a coward, at 
 tlio grandeur of the Creator's power ; and I gazed motionless on 
 this new display of the irresistible force of one of His elements. 
 The falls, tho rainbow, the rapids, and the surroundings all 
 unite to strike the senses with awe ; they defy description with 
 pen or pencil ; and a view satisfied me that Niagara never had 
 been, and never will be painted. I moved towards the rajnds, 
 over which there is a bridge to Goat Island, that I would like 
 to have crossed, to look on the water which was rushing with 
 indescribable swiftness below, but was deterred from the le'v 
 state of my funds. Walking along the edge of the stream for a 
 few hundred yards, the full effect of the whole grand rush of 
 the water was before me. Tho colour of the water was a verdi- 
 gris green, and contrasted remarkably with the falling torrent. 
 The mist of the spray mounted to the clouds, while the roaring 
 below sounded like constant heavy thunder, making me think 
 at times that the earth was shaking also. 
 
 "From this point I could see three-quarters of a mile down 
 
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 92 
 
 LIFE OP AUDUBON. 
 
 the river, which appeared quite calm. I descended a flight of 
 about seventy steps, and walked and crouched on my hams 
 along a rugged slippery path to the edge of the river, where a 
 man and a skiff are always waiting to take visitors to tlie 
 opposite shore. I approached as near tlie falling water as 1 
 could, without losing sight of the objects behind me. In a few 
 moments my clothes were wet. I retired a few hundred yards 
 to admire two beautiful rainbows, Avhich seemed to surround me, 
 and also looked as if spanning obliquely from the American to 
 the Canadian shore. Visitors can walk under the falling sheet of 
 water, and see through it, while at their feet are thousands of 
 eels lying side by side, trying vainly to ascend the torrent. 
 
 " I afterwards strolled through the village to find some bread 
 and milk, and ate a gooa dinner for twelve cents. Went to 
 bed at night thinking of Franklin eating his roll in the streets 
 of Philadelphia, of Goldsmith travelling by the help of his 
 musical jiowers, and of other great men who had worked their 
 way through hardships and difficulties to fame, and fell asleep 
 hoping, by persevering industry, to make a name for myself 
 among my countrymen. 
 
 '• Buffalo, Augud 25. This village was utterly destroyed by 
 fire in the war of eighteen hundred and twelve, but now has 
 about two hundred houses, a bank, and daily mail. It is now 
 filled with Indians, who have come here to receive their annuity 
 from the government. The chief Red Jacket is a noble-looking 
 man ; another, called the Devil's Ramrod, has a savage look. 
 Took a deck-jjassage on board a schooner bound to Erie, Penn- 
 sylvania ; fare one dollar and fifty cents, to furnish my own bed 
 and provisions; my buffulo-robe and blanket served for tlie 
 former. The captain invited me to sleep in the (';l)iii; but I 
 declined, as I never encroach where I have no right. The sky 
 was serene, and I threw myself on the deck contemplating the 
 unfathomable immensity above me, and contrasting the comforts 
 which ten days before I was enjoying with my present con- 
 dition. Even the sailors, ignorant of my name, look on me as 
 a poor devil not able to pay for a cabin passage. 
 
 " In our voyage we had safely run the distance to Presque 
 Isle Harbour, but could not pas?) the bar on account of a violent 
 gale. The anchor was dropped, and we remained on board 
 
 I 
 
escended a flight of 
 iiclied on my hams 
 if the river, where a 
 ake visitors to the 
 J falling Avater as 1 
 3hind me. In a few 
 I few hundred yanls 
 med to surround me, 
 oin the American to 
 • the falling sheet of 
 eet are thousands of 
 md the torrent. 
 3 to find some bread 
 ve cents. Went to 
 is roll in tlie streets 
 jy the help of liis 
 lio had worked their 
 une, and fell asleep 
 a nnnie for myself 
 
 tterly destroyed by 
 velve, but now has 
 y mail. It is now 
 jceive their annuity 
 t is a noble-looking 
 las a savage look. 
 und to Erie, Penu- 
 uruish my own beJ 
 et served for the 
 
 the CiMii ; but I 
 lo riglit. The sky 
 
 contemplating the 
 isting the comforts 
 I my present con- 
 ue, look on me os 
 
 stance to Presque 
 •count of a violent 
 mained on board 
 
 JOURNEY TO MEADVILLE. 
 
 93 
 
 during the night. How long we might have remained at 
 anchor I cannot tell, had not Captain Judd, of the United States 
 Navy, then probably commandant at Presque Isle, sent a gig 
 with six roftn to our relief. It was on the 29th of August, 1824, 
 and never shall I forget that morning. IVIy drawings were put 
 into the boat with the greatest care. We shifted into it, and 
 seated ourselves according to direction. Our brave fellows 
 pulled hard, and every moment brought us nearer to the 
 American shore ; I leaped upon it with elated heart. My draw- 
 ings were safely landed, and for anything else I cared little at 
 the moment. After a humble meal of bread and milk, a 
 companion and myself settled to proceed upon our journey. 
 Our luggage was rather heavy, so we hired a cart to take it 'co 
 Jleadville, for which we offered five dollars. This sum was 
 accepted, and wo set off. 
 
 "The country through which we passed might have proved 
 favourable to our pursuits, had it not rained nearly the whole 
 lay. At night ve alighted, and put up at a house belonging to 
 our conductor's father. It was Sunday night. The good folks 
 had not yet returned from a distant church, the grandmother of 
 our driver being the only individual about the premises. We 
 found her a cheerful dame, who bestirred herself actively, got 
 up a blazing fire to dry our wet clothes, and she put bread and 
 milk on the table. We asked for a place in which to rest, and 
 were shown into a room in which were several beds. My 
 companion and myself was soon in bed and asleep; but our 
 slumbers were broken by a light, which we found to be carried 
 by three young damsels, who, having observed where v,c lay, 
 blew it out and got into a bed opposite ours. As we had not 
 spoken, the girls supposed \ve were sound asleep, and we heard 
 them say how delighted they would be to have their portraits 
 taken as well as their grandmother, whose likeness I had 
 j.romised to draw. Day dawned, and as we were dressing we 
 discovered the girls had dressed in silence and left us before we 
 had i; wakened. No sooner had I offered to draw the portraits of 
 the gills than they disappeared, and soon returned in their 
 Sunday clotlies. The black r-halk was at work in a few minutes, 
 to their great delight ; and while the flavour of the breakfast 
 reached mv sensitive nose, I worked with redoubled ardour. 
 
 C 
 
 •f 
 
 mi; 
 
 < 
 
94 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 The sketches were som finished, and the breakfast over. I 
 jiluyed a few airs on .ny flageolet while our guide was putting 
 the horses to the cart, and by ten o'clock we were once more on 
 the road to Meadville. 
 
 "The country was covered with heavy timber, principally 
 evergreens ; the pines and cucumber trees, loaded with brilliant 
 fruits, and the spruce, throwing a shade over the land, in good 
 keeping with the picture. The lateness of the crops alone 
 struck ua as unpleasant. At length we came in sight of French 
 Creek, and soon after we reached jMeadville. Here we paid the 
 five dollars promised to our conductor, who instantly faced 
 about, and applying the whip to his nags bade vl^ adieu. 
 
 " We had now only one hundred and fifty cents. No time was 
 to be lost. We put our luggage and ourselves under the roof 
 of a tavern-keepei', known by the name of J. F. Smith, at the 
 sign of the 'Travellers' Rest,' and soon after took a walk to 
 survey the little village that was to be laid under contribution 
 for our support. Putting my portfolio under my arm, and a 
 few good credentials in my pocket, I walked up the main 
 street, looking to the right and left, examining the different 
 heads which occurred, until I fixed my eyes on a gentleman in 
 a store who looked as if he mignt want a sketch. I begged him 
 to allow me to sit down. This granted, I remained perfectly 
 silent, and he soon asked me what was in that 'portrblio.' 
 The words sounded well, and without waiting another infitant I 
 opened it to his view. He was a Hollander, who coniplitnenied 
 me on the execution of the drawings of birds and flowers in my 
 portfolio. Showing him a sketch of the best friend I h-^ve in 
 the world at present, I asked him if he would like one in the 
 same style of himself? He not only answered in the affirma- 
 tive, but assured me that he would exert himself in procunng 
 as many more customers as he could. I thanked him, and 
 returned to the ' Travellers' Kest ' with a hope that to-morrow 
 might prove propitious. Supper was ready, and we began our 
 meal. I was looked on as a missionary priest, on account of 
 my hair, which in those days flo\\ed loosely on my shoulders. 
 I w^s asked to say grace, which I did with a fervent sjtirit. 
 Next morning I visited the merchant, and succeeded in making 
 a sketch of him that pleased him highly. While working at 
 
 
 him 
 Som( 
 work I 
 liim, 
 and 
 and 
 I fouil 
 page 
 
ARRIVAL AT TITTSBURG. 
 
 95 
 
 him the room became crowded witli the village aristocracy. 
 Some laughed, while others expressed their wonder, but my 
 work went on. My sitter invited me to spend the evening with 
 Mm, which I did, and joined him in some nmsic on the flute 
 and violin. I returned to my companion with great pleasure ; 
 and you may judge how much that pleasure was increased when 
 I found that he also had made two sketches. Having written a 
 page or two of our journals, we retired to rest. With our 
 ])ockets replenished we soon afterwards left for Pittsburg, where 
 we arrived in safety. 
 
 "Seytemher 7. I was more politely received than on former 
 occasions at Pittsburg, and which I found was due to the recep- 
 tion I liad met with in Philadelphia, and some rumours of which 
 had •cached the West. 
 
 "October 9. Spent one month at Pittsburg scouring the 
 country for birds, and continuing my drawings. Made the ac- 
 quaintance of the Eev. John H. Hopkins. Found him an 
 amiable man, and attended some of his ministrations " (the first 
 reference made in his journal to church-going). " In my mind 
 church attendance has been confounded with such rascally 
 conduct otherwise that I cannot tL^nk of it without sadness. I 
 met a Mr. Baldwin, who volunteered to subscribe for my book 
 of birds — the third hundred name given to me .In the com-se of 
 my intimacy with the Rev. Mr. Hopkins I was brought to think 
 more than I usually did of religious matters ; but 1 confess I 
 never think of churches without feeling sick at heart at the 
 sham and show of some of their professors. To repay -yils 
 with kindness is the religion I was taught to practise, and this 
 will for ever be my rule." 
 
 I 
 
 r 
 
 ID 
 
 '.I 
 
 < 
 
' Wli :: 
 
 06 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 ir 
 
 [ r 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Audubon brings about and Commences a Voyage down the Ohio to thk 
 South — Abandonment of the Exi'i.ihtion — Arrival at Cincinnati — 
 Visit to Louisville, and Meeting with his Son Victor — Voyage to 
 Bayou Sara — A Plague-stricken Town — Adventure in the Woods — 
 Meeting Mrs. Audubon — Turns Dancino-master — A Droll Scene — 
 A Successful Speculation — Visit to England, and Completion of 
 the Ornithological Work foreseen. 
 
 ** October 24. For some days I have been meditating on pur- 
 chasing a skiff and going down the Ohio and Mississippi in it, as 
 I had done years before. I purchased a boat, and filling it witii 
 provisions, bade my friends adieu, and started in company with 
 an artist, a doctor, and an Irishman. I hauled up the boat at 
 night and slept in it. 
 
 '* October 29. Reached Wheeling after suffering much from 
 wet and rain. The artist and doctor were disgusted with boat- 
 ing, and left. The Irishman was tired of his bargain. My 
 finances were very low. I tried to sell some lithographs of 
 General Lafayette, but did not succeed. I sold my skiff, and 
 took passage in a keel-boat to Cincinnati, with a lot of passen- 
 gers, army officers, and others. I arri^-ed at Cincinnati, visited 
 my old house, and met many old friends in that city. 
 
 " While at Cincinnati I was beset by claims for the payment 
 of articles which years before had been ordered lor the museum, 
 but from which I got no benefit. Without money or the means of 
 making it, I applied to Messrs. Keating and Bell for the loan of 
 fifteen dollars, but had not the courage to do so until I had 
 
 m 
 
AHIUVAL AT DAYOU SARA. 
 
 f)7 
 
 THE Ohio to thk 
 L AT Cincinnati — 
 icTOR — Voyage to 
 tiE IN TKE Woods — 
 A Droll Scene — 
 ND Completion of 
 
 itating on pur- 
 
 isissippi in it, as 
 
 filling it with 
 
 company with 
 
 up the boat at 
 
 mg much trom 
 sted with boat- 
 bargain. My 
 ithographs of 
 my skilf, and 
 I lot of passen- 
 ciunati, visited 
 ity. 
 the payment 
 .' the museum, 
 r the means of 
 for the loan of 
 until I had 
 
 walked past their liouse several times, unable to malco up my 
 mind how to ask tlie favour. I got the loan clicevfully, and 
 took a deck-passngo to Jiouisvillo. i was allowed to take my 
 meals in tlio cabin, and at night s]('])t among some shavings I 
 managed to scrape together. The spiiit of contentment whicli 
 I now feel is strange — it borders on the sublime; and enthusiast 
 or lunatic — as some of my ndativcs will have; me — I am glad to 
 l)()ss(>ss such a spirit. 
 
 ''Louisville, Noveniber 20. Took lodgings at the house of a 
 IHH'son to whom I had given lessons, and hastened to shipping 
 ])ort to see my son Victor, lleceived a letter from General 
 Jiickson, with an introduction to the Governor of Florida. I 
 discover that iny friends tliinlc only of my apparel, and those 
 ii[)nn whom I have conferred acts of kindness pi'efer to remind 
 mo of my errors. I decide to go down the JMississippi to my 
 old home of Bayou Sara, and there open a school, with the 
 profits of wliich to complete my ornithological studies. Engage 
 a jiassage for eight dollars. 
 
 "I arrived at Uayou 8ara with rent and wasted clothes and 
 uncut hair, and altogether looking like the Wandering Jew. 
 
 " The steamer which brought inc was on her wav to New 
 Orleans, and I was put ashore in a small boat about midnight, 
 and left to grope my way on a dark, rainy, and sultry night to 
 the village, about one mile distant. That awful scourge the 
 yellow fever prevailed, and was taking off the citizens with 
 greater rapidity than had ever before been known. When I 
 arrived, the desolation was so great that one large hotel was 
 deserted, and I walked in, finding the doors all open, and the 
 furniture in the house, but not a living person. The inmates 
 had all gone to the pine woods. I walked to the Post Office, 
 roused the postniastt'r, and learned to my joy that my wife 
 and son were well at Sirs. Perry's. lie had no accommodation 
 for me, but recommended me to a tavern where I might find a 
 bed. The atmosphere was calm, heavy, and suffocating, and it 
 seemed to me as if I were breathing death while hunting for 
 this tavern ; finding it, the landlord told me he had not a spare 
 hod, but mentioned a German at the end of the village who 
 might take me in ; oil' there I Avalked, and was kindly received. 
 The German was a man of cultivation and taste, and a lo\er of 
 
 u 
 
 c: 
 
 I I 
 
 iir 
 
 >! It! 
 
 WW 
 
 \> 
 
 ;;:p 
 
f 
 
 08 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUrON. 
 
 
 niituml Sfienco, and Imil collectod a variotv of interestin!^ 
 objects. IIo gave mo sonio refreshment, nnd offered mo a 
 lioi -.vi to ride to ]\Irs. Perry's. Tlie liorso wan soon at the door, 
 and witli many thanks I hade hiiu adieu. j\ly anxiety to reach 
 my beloved wife and eliild was so gi'oat that I resolved to make 
 a straiglit course through the woods, whicli I thought I knew 
 thoroughly, and hardly earing wliere [ sliould cross the bayou. 
 In less than two hours I reached its slioi-es, but the horso re- 
 fused to enter the water, and snorting suddenly, turned and 
 made off through tlie woods, as if desirous of crossing at some 
 other place, and when he readied the shore again walked in, 
 and crossed me safely to the other side. The sky was overcast, 
 and the mosquitoes plentiful ; but I thought I recognized the 
 epot where I had watched the habits of a wild cat, or a deei', as 
 the clouds broke away, and the stars now and then peeped 
 through to helj) me make my way through the gloomy forests. 
 But in this I was mistaken, for wlien day dawned I fcamd my- 
 self in woods which were unknown to me. However, I chanced 
 to meet a bh.ck man, who told mo where I was, and that I had 
 passed ]Mrs. Perry's plantation two miles. Turning my horse's 
 head, and putting spurs to him, a brisk gallop soon brought me 
 to the house. It was early, but I found my beloved wife up 
 and engaged in giving a lesson to her pupils, and, holding and 
 kissing her, I was once more happy, and all my toils and trials 
 were forgotten. 
 
 " December 1. After a few days' rest I began to think of Ihe 
 future, and to look about to see what I could do to hasten the 
 publication of my drawings. My wife was receiving a large 
 income — nearly three thousand dollars a year — from her industry 
 and talents, which she generously oft'orcd me to help forward 
 their publication ; and I resolved on a new effort to increase 
 the amount by my own energy and labour. Numerous pupils 
 desired lessons in music, French, and drawing. From Wuodv'He 
 I receiv'd a special invitation to teach dancing, and a class of 
 sixty was soon organized. I went to begin my duties, dressed 
 ]nyself at the hotel, and with my fiddle under my arm entered 
 the ball-room. I found my music highly appreciated, and im- 
 mediately commenced proceedings. 
 
 "I placed all the gentlemen in a line reaching across the hall 
 
A DANCING LESSON. 
 
 00 
 
 of interestin!;]; 
 1 olTored mo a 
 non at the door, 
 ^axiety to reach 
 esolved to inalce 
 thonolit I know 
 ■ross the bayou, 
 it tlio horse re- 
 nly, turned and 
 crossing at some 
 ajiuiu walked in, 
 ky was overcast, 
 [ recognized the 
 cat, or a deer, as 
 nd then peeped 
 i(j gloomy Ibrests. 
 ncd 1 found my- 
 wevev, I chanced 
 ?, and that I had 
 
 ning my horse's 
 soon brought me 
 
 beloved wife up 
 iind, holding and 
 
 y toils and trials 
 
 to think of the 
 
 llo to hasten the 
 
 !ceiving a large 
 
 from her industry 
 
 I to help forward 
 
 I'tbrt to increase 
 
 umerous pupils 
 
 From Woodvillo 
 
 ig, and a class of I 
 
 duties, dressed 
 
 my arm entered 
 
 •eciated, and iui- 
 
 thinking to give the young ladies time to compose themselves 
 and get ready when they were called. How I toiled before 
 I (!Ould get one graceful step or motion ! 1 broke my bow and 
 nearly my violin in my excitement and impatience! The 
 gentlemen were soon fatigued. Tlie ladies were next placed 
 in the same order and made to walk the steps ; and then came 
 the trial for both parties to proceed a the same time, while I 
 puslied one here and another there, and was all the while 
 singing myself, to assist their movements. IMany of the parents 
 were present, and were delighted. After this first lesson was 
 over I was requested to dance to my otvn music, which I did 
 until the whole room came down in thunders of applause in 
 clapping of hands and shouting, which put an end t' my first 
 lesson and to an amusing comedy. Lessons in fencing followed 
 to the young gentlemen, and I went to bed extremely fatigued. 
 
 " The dancing speculation fetched two thousand dollars ; and 
 with this capital and my wife's savings I was now able to 
 foresee a successful issue to my great ornithological work." 
 
 The remainder of Audubon's residence at Bayou Sara was 
 taken up with preparations for his intended voyage to Englam , — 
 where he expected to find the fame given to all heroes so tardily 
 in their own countries. 
 
 C: 
 
 1$ 
 
 1 1 
 
 nil 
 ;») 
 
 Ig across the hall 
 
 H 2 
 
■!fiS %• 
 
 .1 n 
 
 )(,■. 
 
 I : 
 
 t r 
 1 I 
 
 10!> 
 
 1,1 1'K OF AUnUBOX. 
 
 CHAPTEll XXTT. 
 
 AuDunoN Sa!lh FHOM Nkw Oni.KANs I'Oit KNcit.ANo ON r.oAiin TiiK Dkt.os— 
 MoTHKH Carey's Chickkns — Dkatii ok a Yoi'nci Am.kiatoii — iNcinr.N'rs 
 
 OF TIIK VOYAOK — IfAlUTS 01" ]")0I.1'II1NS — JIlOAT 'I'KSTED 1011 PoiSOX — 
 
 I?irK Ik'N'TiNO niaiiiicw tuk Siiir, and is cArniiKD iiv a Peukouink 
 Falcon — CATriuNa Iiuddeu-i-ish— Successful Sport. 
 
 " Aj^ril 2(')th, 1826. I t,eft my wife nnd son at Bayou Sara for 
 New Orloans on my way to Enf^land, and onp;aj^od a passage to 
 Liverpool on board the ship Delos. The vessel did not sail 
 as soon as expected, and I was necessarily delayed at New 
 Orleans. I obtained several hitters of introduction from persons 
 in New Orleans to friends in Englantl, and one from Governor 
 Johnson of Louisiana with tlie seal of the State on it, which 
 saved mo the trouble of getting a passport. 
 
 "On the 10th of May the steam-tug Hercules towed the 
 I)elos out to sea, and with light winds wo pursued our voyage. 
 The time was pleasantly spent shooting birds and catching 
 dolphins and sharks, from which I made frequent sketches. 
 
 " May 27. Had Mother Carey's chickens following us, and 
 desired to get one of the beautiful birds as they swept past 
 pattering the water with their feet, and returning after long 
 ranges for scraps of oil and fat floated astern. I dropped one 
 with my gun, and the captain kindly ordered a boat to he 
 lowered to recover the shot bird. I examined the bird ami 
 found it to be a female. 
 
 " Maij SI. Saw a small vessel making towards us; she was 
 a suspicious-looking craft, and our crew had pardonable fesirs 
 she might prove to bo a pirate. A young fat alligator I had 
 with me died to day, from being placed among salt instead of 
 fresh water — the former being poisonous to the animal. 
 
noAitP THE Df.t.or— 
 
 l.KJATOll — InCIDKN'I'S 
 
 i:tsTKi) I'oii Poison— 
 
 KD UY A rEUEOHINK 
 RT. 
 
 t Bayou Sara for 
 i^od a passage to 
 'sscl (lid not sail 
 
 delayed at New 
 tion from persons 
 le from Governor 
 
 ate on it, which 
 
 loules towed the 
 
 mod our voyage. 
 
 Js and catching 
 
 lit sketches, 
 llowing us, and 
 they swept past 
 
 L-ning after long 
 I dropped one 
 
 Id a boat to be 
 
 xl the bird and 
 
 Irds us ; she was 
 [)ardoual)le fcjirs 
 It rdligator I had 
 Ig salt instead of 
 animal. 
 
 LETTKll TO MI{. 1!AT11150NE. 
 
 lol 
 
 "Much troubled with anxious thoughts about tho purport 
 and expectations of my voyage to England. I had obtained 
 many favourable hitters of introducition to friends in England, 
 \vhi(di 1 believed would prove of material assistance, and among 
 tlieso was tho following : — 
 
 " ' Now Orleans, May 10, 182(!. 
 
 "'Dear Sir, 
 
 " * I have ventured to put iu tho hands of Mr. John J. Audubon, 
 a gentleman of highly respectable scientific acquiremuiits, these 
 introductory lines to you, under tho persuasion that his accjuaint- 
 ance cannot fail to bo one of extreme interest to you. IMr. 
 Audubon is a native of the United States, and has spent more 
 than twenty years iu all parts of them, devoting most of his 
 time to tho study of ornithology. He carries with him a col- 
 lection of over four hundred drawings, which far surpass any- 
 thing of tho kind I have yet seen, and afford the best evidence 
 of his skill, and tho perfection to which he has carried his 
 researches. His object is to find a purchaser or a publislier for 
 them, and if you can aid him in this, and introduce him either 
 in person or by letter to men of distinction in arts and sciences, 
 you will (ionfe" much of a favour on me. He has a crowd of 
 letters from I\Ir. Clay, Do Witt Clinton, and others for England, 
 which will do much for him ; but your introduction to JMr. 
 lioscoe and others may do more. His collection of ornitho- 
 logical drawings would prove a most valuable acijuisition to 
 any museum, or any monied patron of the arts, and, I should 
 think, convey a far better idea of American birds than all the 
 stuffed birds of all the museums [)ut together. 
 
 " ' Permit me likewise to recommend Sir. Audubon to your 
 hospitable attentions; the respectability of his life and his 
 family connections entitle him to the good wishes of any 
 gentleman, and you will derive much gratification from his 
 conversation. 
 
 " •' I am, dear Sir, 
 
 " ' ^^'ith sincere regard, 
 
 " ' Must truly yours, 
 
 " ' Vincent Notte, 
 " ''!'<) KicuAiii) liATiiiioNi';, Esq., 
 "•Livfi'iiool."" 
 
 c: 
 
 ■;; 
 
 I I 
 
 
 
 i" 
 
 |r 
 
 nil 
 
 < 
 
,■ ■! 
 
 102 
 
 LIFK OK AUDUBON. 
 
 "June 2t{. Near Cap(3 Florida. This morninf? wo entoroil tlio 
 Atlantic Ocean from tho Florida Straits with a fair wind. The 
 liiiid birds havo left us. I Icavo America and my wife and 
 children to visit England and Europe and publish my * Buds 
 of America.' 
 
 " In tho Gulf of IMoxieo our vessel was becalmed for many 
 days ; the tedium of which wo beguiled by catching fish and 
 watching their habits. Among the others caught we were 
 fortnnato in securing boeral beautiful dolphins. Doljdiins 
 move in shoals varying from four or five to twenty or more, 
 hunting in packs in tho waters as wolves pursue their pr(>y on 
 land. 'J'hc object of their pursuit is generally the flying-fish, 
 now and then the bonita ; and when nothing better can bo had 
 they will follow tho little rudder-fish and sci/o it immediately 
 under tho stern of tho ship. Tiie flying-fishes, after having 
 escaped for awhile by dint of their great velocity, on being 
 again approache 1 by the dolphins, emerge from the water, and 
 spreading their broad wing-like fins, sail through the air and 
 disperse in all directions, like a covey of timid partridges before 
 the rai)acious falcon. Some i)iuvsu(' a direct course, others 
 diverge on either side, biit in a short time they all di'o[) into 
 their natural element. While they are travelling in tho air 
 their keen and hungry pursuer, like a greyhound, follows in 
 their wake, and performing a succession of leaps many feet in 
 extent, rapi'lly gains upon the quarry, which is often seized just 
 as it falls into the sea. J)oli)hins manifest a very remarkable 
 sympathy with each other. Tho moment one of them is hooked 
 or grained, as sailors technically name their manner of harpoon- 
 ing, those in company make up to it, iind remain around until 
 the unfortunate fish is pulled on board, when they generally 
 move oft" together, seldom biting at anylhing thrown out to 
 them. This, howcvei-, is tlio case onlv with the larKcr in- 
 dividuals, which keep apart from tho young, in tlio same manner 
 as is observed in several species of birds ; for when the smaller 
 dolphins are in large shoals they all remain under tho bows 
 of the ship, and bite in succession at any sort of line, as if 
 determined to see what has become of their lost companions. 
 Tho dolphins caught in the Gulf of IMexico during our voyago 
 wore susj)('<'ted In Ix' poisonous; and to ascertain whether this 
 
wc oiitcrocl tlio 
 f'liir wiml. Thi; 
 I my wife and 
 )liBh my * Blids 
 
 limed for many 
 
 telling fish and 
 
 auf^ht wo were 
 
 ins. Dol])lun.s 
 
 ;vventy or more, 
 
 le their prey on 
 
 • tlie flying-fish, 
 
 tter can be had 
 
 it immediately 
 
 i9, after having 
 
 Dcity, on being 
 
 L the water, and 
 
 gh the air and 
 
 lartridges belbvo 
 
 I course, others 
 
 f>y all drop into 
 
 ing in the air 
 
 nnd, follows in 
 
 many feet in 
 
 ten seized just 
 
 ery remarkable 
 
 hem is hooked 
 
 iier of harpoon- 
 
 n around until 
 
 they generally 
 
 thrown out to 
 
 the larger in- 
 
 3 same manner 
 
 on the smaller 
 
 ider the bows 
 
 of line, as if 
 
 t companions. 
 
 ng our voyago 
 
 whether this 
 
 CATCHING UOLI'llLWS. 
 
 1()3 
 
 was really the case, our coolc, who was an African negro, never 
 hoihd or fried one without i)lacing besid(! it a dollar. If the 
 silver was not tarnished by Iho time the dolphin was ready for 
 the table, the fish was presented to the passengers with tho 
 nssuranco that it was ix.'rfectly good. Ihit as not a single 
 individual of the hundrc'd that we caught luul tl;e property of 
 converting silver into copper, I suspect that our African sago 
 was no nuigician. Ono morning, that of the 22nd of June, the 
 weather sultry, I was surprised, on getting out of my hammoidc, 
 which was slung on deck, to find the water all round swarming 
 with dolphins, which were sporting in gr-at glee. Tho sailors 
 assured mo that this was n certain ' token of wind,' and, us 
 tlioy watched tho movcunont of the iishes, added, 'ay, and a, 
 fair bree/e too.' I caught several dolphins in the course of an 
 hour, after which scarcely any renuiined about the ship. Not a 
 breath of air came to our relief all that day, nor oven tho next. 
 " Tho best bait for the dolphin is a long strip of shark's llesh. 
 I think it generally prefers it to the semblance of a llying-lish, 
 which, indeed, it does not oi'Uni seize unless when the ship is 
 under weigh, and it is made to rise to the surface. There are 
 times, however, when hunger and the absence of their usual 
 food will induce the dolphins to dasli at any sort of bait; and 
 1 have seen some caught by means of a piece of white linen 
 iastened to a hook. Their ap])etite is as keen as that of the 
 vulture; and wlienever a good opportunity occurs they gorge 
 themselves to such a degree that they become an ea.;y prey to 
 their enemies, the balaconda and the bottle-nosed porpoise. 
 One that had been brained while lazily swimming immediately 
 under the stern of our ship was found to have its stomach 
 completely crammed with ilying-fish, all regularly disposed side 
 by side, with their tails downwards, which suggests that tho 
 dolphin swallows its prey tail foremost. 'They looked, in fact, 
 like so many salted herrings packed in a box, and were, to the 
 nuiaber of twenty- two, each six and t:even inches in length. 
 The usual length of tho dolj)hin Ciiught in the Gulf of ]\lexico 
 is about three I'eet, and I saw none that exce(.'ded i'our feet two 
 inches. The M('ight of ono of the latter siz(> was only eigliteen 
 pounds, for this fish is extremely narrow in iiroi)uili(!:i to its 
 length, although rather dee}) in its form. When just (aught, 
 
 C; 
 
 •c, 
 < 
 
 
 
 I 
 III 
 
 (11 
 
 :u 
 
 :s 
 
 < 
 
I 
 
 I '. l! 
 
 t,:;i:: 
 
 r,pl' 
 
 f .M 'i 
 
 %'• 
 
 '';:i!,<t.' •■ 
 
 KM 
 
 l,ll''K (»r AUIHJIMtN. 
 
 tlin U|)[)(«r fill, \v]ii(^li t'niclirH iVoiii tlio fonOiciul to within a Hliort 
 <lisfiui('() of 4li(^ tail, iH of a lino dark Itliio. Tlir nppcr part of 
 llin iHidy in its wliolo icn^rth i.s a/nrc, iiml tii(> lower [xirtH am ol' 
 a ^oldon lino, inoltlod irro^uliirly with drop Mno spotH. 
 
 " Ono flay hovoimI sinidl liirds, ultor uli;<lilin{^ on tho Hpiirw, h(,'- 
 tooU thoniHolvoHto tlio di'(.'k. ()n(^ of fhcni, a fcinah' ri(!o hnntin<r, 
 drew onr attention nion; particnlarly, for, a fow nioniontH alter 
 her arrival, thoro canio d<)wn,iiH if if vcn* in her wnko, a hnmlifnl 
 por('^rin(( I'ldcon. 'i'ho jdnndcror liovcrod ahont for awhile, (hen 
 Htationcd himself on tho end of oint of tho yard-arms, and 
 nnddenly ponncinfjj on the little jj^jeanorof tho meadows, clntched 
 lier and earric^l iu-r (tlV in exnlliition. I wnn astonished to sec; 
 the I'aleon feeding,' on tho finch whilo on tin* w'lw^ with the 
 same ease a.s the Mississippi Kite shows while d(!VCMniiifr, hi^li in 
 air, a red-throated lizard, swept from oiK^ of the trees of thi! 
 Jiouisiana wctods. 
 
 " Ono afternoon we eanfi;ht two sharks. In ono of them we 
 fonnd ten yonnjjf ones alive, and qnite capnltle of swimniin},', iis 
 MO proved hy experiment; for on e)istin;i,' one of them into the 
 sea it immediiitely made (•!'•", as il' it had heen acenstomed to shift 
 for itself. Of anolluv that liad heen (-ut in two, th<? hea<l half 
 8wam ont of onr si^ht. The rest wert.' cut in pieces, as wiis iUv 
 old shark, as bait for tla^ dolpliins, which, 1 liave ain.'ady said, 
 
 nr( 
 
 fond of snch food. Onr captain, who was mnch intent 
 
 on 
 
 amnsin*^ me, informed me that tlu^ rudih-r-fishes \vere plentiful 
 astern, aiul immediately set to dressing; ho<»ks for lh(^ pni'pose of 
 eatchin<>; them. Then^ was now some air above ns, tla^ sails 
 aloft tilled, the sjiip moved throu;;h tho water, and the enjttain 
 I I reiiaircd to tho cabin winchjw. 1 was furnished with a 
 
 and 
 
 fine hook, a thread line, and somi^ small bits of bacon, as was 
 
 th 
 
 10 captain, and we (lrop[)ed our bait aujoiif 
 
 tho 
 
 myria( 
 
 Is of 
 
 delicate little iislies below. Up they came onct aft(!r another, 
 so fast in suc(!es^ ion that, according to my journal, we caught 
 thre(^ hundred and seventy in about two hours ! What a mess ! 
 and how (h^licions when roasted! if over I am again becalmed 
 in tlie Gulf of ^lexico, 1 shall not forget tho rn(hler-lish. The 
 little things scarcely measured three inches in length ; they 
 we're thin and deep in form, and allbrded excellent eating. It 
 was curious to s( e tiiom keej) to tho lee of tho rudder in a 
 
 'li''Y 
 
within a sliort 
 )i|i|M'r |)urt of 
 cr [iitrlH uro of 
 
 ■ipotH. 
 
 1 llio HparH, l)c- 
 [• lice l>iiiiliii«r, 
 inoiiicnts iillcr 
 ikc, a Iwautifiil 
 )r awliilc, tlicn 
 anl-anns, and 
 (lowH, clutclnd 
 tdiiislicd to S('(i 
 wiii^ with the 
 tniiii';, hi<j;h in 
 (' lieea of the 
 
 10 of thorn W(> 
 
 swininiinjjf, iis 
 
 thcni into thr 
 
 Htunu'd to shift 
 
 th(> licad half 
 
 cs, as waH th(( 
 
 111 ready Hai<l, 
 
 oh intent on 
 
 were plentiful 
 
 i(> iturjutso of 
 
 us, the sails 
 
 the onjttain 
 
 ished with a 
 
 baeon, as was 
 
 ! myriads of 
 
 d'tctr another, 
 
 1, we ciin^ht 
 
 What a niesH! 
 
 ain bocahned 
 
 r-lish. The 
 
 leiif^th ; they 
 
 it eating. It 
 
 3 rudder in a 
 
 VOHACITY OK THK KUUDKIl-KIHIF. 
 
 105 
 
 compact ho<ly, and ho voraoioiw worn thoy, that thoy a(!tually 
 liiiped out of th(j wat(!r at ilio Hi^ht of th(( hait. Ihit the V(!ry 
 instant that tho ship bo(;anie ntill thoy disperHod around her 
 Hides, and would no longer bito. After drifting along the I'Morida 
 (M)ast a Htiir bnfozo rose, an<l Hweoping utt into the Atlantic, Hont 
 us far upon our fuvourablo voyage." 
 
 C 
 
 I** 
 
 '0 
 
 r 
 
 I R11 
 
 I ir. 
 
 iCIl 
 'IS 
 
 }i 
 
 I > 
 
 II 
 
m 
 
 I ■!', 
 
 106 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUr.ON. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XXiU. 
 
 AimiVATj AT LiVEurooL — LivERPOOii FniENDS — Drawings ExmniTED ny 
 
 DESIRE IN TJIE lloYAL iNSTri'l'TiOX — VlSlT TO MaNX'IIESTKR — Ol'ENIN(i 
 
 OF Siinsc'iurTiox-iiooK for orka'i" Work — Journey to KDiNiu;R(iii — 
 Introduction to Professor Jaiikson and Dr. Knox — Edinuuroh — 
 Lizars, the Engraver — Drawinos exiiihiTed at the Iioyai, Institu- 
 tion — DiNiN(; WITH Antiquarian Society — An extraordinary l^x- 
 
 TERTAINMENT — Sill WlIJ,IAM JaRIUNE PROPOSED A ]\IeM1U;R OF THE 
 
 Weknerian Society — David Brewster — I'^.j.f.cted a ]\Ii;mrer of 
 Werxerian Society — Geou^'E Co.mue, the Phrenoi.ocist — '1'he ad- 
 vantage OF V.'EARINCi I.OXG IIaIR — PlMCE OF THE ' PoOK OF P)IRDS ' — 
 
 Visit to the Earl oi'' Morton at Dai.maiioy — Hunting Hawks — 
 Francis Jeffrey'. 
 
 " Juhj 20, 1826. Landed from tlie Delos at Liverpool, and took 
 lodgings at the Cominorcial Hotel. Called at the coumiug-lion^o 
 of Cordon and Forstall, and nent to deliver my letters to J\[r. 
 Eathbone, who was absent .-.leu I called ; but he ft)r\varded a 
 polite note, in which he in ited me to d'ne and meet Mr. Eoscoe. 
 
 " Jnlij 24. Called for j\[r. Kathbono at his counting-house, 
 and was kindly received, and dined at his house in ])uke Street. 
 Was introduced to his friend ^\lv. l?oseoe, and his son-in-law, 
 Mr. Pilemon L. Baring. Mr. Roscoe invited me to his ('ountry- 
 housG next day, and wc visited the Botanical Gardens. Ran- 
 sacked the city for pastils to make a drawing for Mrs. Rathbone. 
 
 " My drawings are to be exhibited at the Liverpool Exhibi- 
 tion. Jlr. Roscoe promised to introduce me to Lord Stanley, 
 who, he says, is rather shy. (Jreat anxiety about the success of 
 my exhibititm. which has proved a complete success. 
 
 '' Suiulai/, July 30. Went to church, and saw a picture of 
 
LIFE IN LIVERPOOL. 
 
 107 
 
 OS ExiiiniTED ny 
 
 CIIKSTlOli — Ol'ENINCi 
 
 : TO Ediniiurou — 
 ;ox — EDiMujiidii — 
 
 U; IJOYAL InSTITU- 
 LTnAOltDlN'ARY Ex- 
 
 MiOMiiKH OF Tin-: 
 
 Kl) A IMl'.MliKU UK 
 OI.OOIST — TlIF, AD- 
 
 liooiv or UiuDs ' — 
 luxTiNCr Hawks — 
 
 rpool, and took 
 
 couiuing-lioii^e 
 
 letters to Mv. 
 
 le fDi-wiuded a 
 
 cot Mr. IJoscoe. 
 
 ounting-liouso, 
 
 1 J)iik(! Street. 
 
 lis soii-iii-luw, 
 
 () liis conntry- 
 
 iirdciis. IJan- 
 
 \rrs. liathboiie. 
 
 M-pool Exliihi- 
 
 Lord Stanley, 
 
 tlio success of 
 
 )SS. 
 
 a i)icturo of 
 
 Christ Curing tho Blind Man, and listened to the singing of 
 blind musicians. 
 
 " August 5. I have met Lord Stanley, and found him a frank, 
 agreeable man. Tall, broad-boned, well-formed, he reminded 
 me of Sully the painter. He said, ' Sir, I am glad to see you.' 
 Wa pointed out one defect in my drawings for which I thanked 
 iiini, but he admired them generally. He spent five hours in 
 examining my collection, and said, 'This work is unique, and 
 deserves tbe patronage of the Crown.' He invited me many 
 times to come and see him at his town-house in Grosvenor 
 Scpiare." 
 
 Under this date, Audubon writes to his wife : " I am cherished 
 by the most notable peojile in and around Liverpool, and have 
 obtained letters of introduction to Baron Humboldt, Sir AYaltor 
 Scott, Sir Humphry Davy, Sir Thomas Lawrence, Hannah 
 More, Bliss Edgeworth, and your distinguished cousin, Ivubert 
 Bakewell." 
 
 '* August 9. By the persuasion of friends, tho entrance-foe to 
 my collection of drawings is to be charged at one shilling. 
 Three and four pounds per day promised well for the success of 
 this proposal. Painted a wild turlvoy, full size, for the Liverpool 
 Koyal Institution. Busy at work painting in my usual toilet, 
 with bare neck and bare arms. Dr. Traill and Mr. Eathbone, 
 Avhile looking on, were astonished at the speed of my work. 
 
 " At Liverpool I did tho portraits of various friends desirous of 
 obtaining specimens of my drawing, and ]\[r. Eathbone suggests 
 that I ouglit to do a large pi'-ture, in order that the public miglit 
 have an opportunity of judging of my i)Mrticular talents. From 
 various Ivind friends I received letters of introduction to many 
 distinguislied persons. 3[r. Eoscoe, in particular, favoured ue 
 with an extremely kind letter to I\liss Edgeworth tlie novelist, 
 in which ho makes reference to my pursuits and acquirements 
 in flattering language." 
 
 Audubon has copied into his journal many of these letters, 
 but the interest of them is not of sul'licient imjiort to warrant 
 their reproduction. 
 
 By the (exhibition of liis pictures at the Eoyal Listitutiou, 
 Liverpool, ho realized 100/.; but he speedily removed to 
 Manchester, ami carried with Jiiiii his collection of drawings for 
 
 l»» 
 
 % 
 
 r 
 
 ■(S 
 
 CI) 
 
 SI 
 
 ::« 
 
h ! i''l :-^' 
 
 108 
 
 LIFE OF AUDURON. 
 
 
 1- 
 
 exhibition in that city. " Ur. Traill, of the Koyal Institution, 
 had ordered all my drawings to bo packed )ip by the curator 
 of the museum, and tlieir transport j>fivo me no trouble 
 whatever. 
 
 " Septemler 10. I left Liverpool and the many Lind friends I 
 had made in it. In live and a half hours the coach arrived 
 at Jbinchester. I took lodgiugs in the King's Arms. I strolled 
 about the city ."and it seemed to me to he most miserably laid 
 out. I was struck by the sallow looks, sad faces, ragged gar- 
 ments, and poverty of a large portion of the population, which 
 seemed worse off than the negroes of Louisiana. I exhibited my 
 pictures in a gallery at jManchcster at one shilling for entrance, 
 but the result was not satisfactory." 
 
 At ]\Ianchester Audubon made the acqunintance of two very 
 valuable frierds — ]\[r. (Jregg and ]\lr. Mc^Furray. He visited 
 many families, and was struck witli the patriarchal manner of 
 an Englishman who called his son ^'niy love." lie onjoy<'d for 
 the first tinie a diiy's shooting aft m- the English fashion in tiie 
 neighbourhood of Manchester, but docs not aj)pcar to have been 
 charmed with the spc^it. It was soon discovered tlu.t the 
 exhibition of his drawings at Manclu.'ster was not going to i)ay ; 
 bui, he opened a subsLJ-iption-book for the publication of iiis 
 work on the Birds of America. 
 
 " Sejjfemher 28. Revisited Liverpool to consult about a [)ro- 
 spectus for my book. IStayed with j\[r. llathbone, and nut 
 there IMr. John Bohn, the London bookseller, who advised me to 
 go to Paris and consult about cost of publicatit)n, after which I 
 ought to go to Ijondon and compari; the outlays before tixing 
 upon any plan. Mrs. Jiathbone desired me to draw the ^^'ild 
 Turkey of America the size of my thumb-nail. This she had 
 engraved on a precious stone in the form of a sea', ;;!>d presented 
 it to me. 
 
 " Oddber 6. I returned to Alanchestcr, driven in the carriiiu;e 
 of a friend, and arrived at tlio hall in wliicli \\\y pictures were 
 exhibited, to find .hat the hall-keeper had been drunk and had 
 no returns to nudie. I stayed about six weeks at j\lanchester, 
 but the exhibition of my })ictures did not pr()s[)er. \ visited 
 3[atlock, ai.d paid live pounds lor spars to take home to my 
 wife. I i)ulled some llowers iVom the hills she had jtlayed over 
 
lytil Institution, 
 by the rnrutor 
 no no trouble 
 
 ? kind friends I 
 } eoach arrived 
 rms. I strolled 
 t miserably laid 
 es, ragi^ed j^ar- 
 )pulation, which 
 I exhibited my 
 ig for entrance, 
 
 ico of two very 
 
 ly. lie visited 
 
 chal nuuiner of 
 
 lie (;njoyed for 
 
 i'ashion in the 
 ar to have been 
 Ivered thr.t the 
 
 going to pay ; 
 
 ication of his 
 
 about a [)ro- 
 
 one, and met 
 
 advised me to 
 
 after which 1 
 
 before iixinir 
 
 raw the ^^'il(l 
 
 This she had 
 
 and presented 
 
 the carriage 
 pictures wire 
 I'unk and had 
 it ]\h)nchester, 
 >er. 1 visited 
 home to my 
 1 played nver 
 
 VISIT TO EDINBURGH. 
 
 109 
 
 when a child, and passed ihrougb. the village of BaUewell, called 
 after some one of her family. 
 
 " I determined to start for Edinbm-gh, and paying three 
 pounds fifteen shillings for coach-hire, started for that city. 
 
 " Octoher 25. Left IManchcster for Edinburgh yesterday, follow- 
 ing the road by Carlisle into Scotland. Was struck with the 
 bleak ap[)earancc of the country. The Scottish shepherds 
 looked like the poor mean whites of the Slave-states. The 
 coaciimen iiavo a mean practice of asking money from the 
 passengers after (;very stage. Arrived at Ivlinburgh, and called 
 with lettijrs of intioduction on Pntfiissor Jameson and Professor 
 Pnucan — on Dr. Chailes and Dr. Henry at the Infirmary, and 
 upon the celebrated ii'iatomist Dr. Juiox. I'rofessor Jameson 
 received mo with the greatest C(ddness — explained there was 
 no chance of me seeing Sir Walter Scott, who was busy with a 
 lil'e of Napideon and a novel, and who lived the life of a recluse. 
 Jlo said his own engagements would prevent his calling for 
 some days. 
 
 " Dr. Knox came to me .'n Jus rooms dressed in an overgown, 
 ami with bleeding hands, which he wiped. Ho read Dr. Traill's 
 letter and wished me success, antl promised to do all in his 
 power for me, and appointed the next day to call upon me 
 and introduce son^e scientific! friends to examine my drawings. 
 1 was much struck with Edinburgh — it is a splendid old 
 city. 
 
 "The lower class of women (fishwives) resemble the squaws 
 of the West, 'i'heir rolling gait, inturned toes, and maimer of 
 carrying burdens on their backs, is exactly that of the Shawnee 
 women. Th.'ir complexions are either fair, purple, or brown 
 as a mulatto. 
 
 "The men wear long whiskers and beaixh', and are extremely 
 uncouth in manners as well as in speech. 
 
 '• Octoher 27. Filled with sad forebodiui^;s and doubts of all 
 progress. Miss Ewart called to see my drawings, and was 
 delighted with them. She exclaimed, after looking at them, 
 'llow delighted Sir Walter Scott would be with them!' 1 
 presented a letter to lAIr. Patrick iSeil, the printer, who received 
 lue with great cordiality, invited me to his house, and promised 
 to iut(!rest himself lor iiM' g<Mierallv. l\Ir. Andrew Duncan gave 
 
 n-i 
 
 
 
 
 pi 
 
 , lei 
 
 ■en 
 
 < 
 
110 
 
 UFK OF AUDUBON. 
 
 
 'ii''> 
 
 'M 
 
 me a note to Francis Jeflfroy, the famous editor of the ' Edin- 
 burgh Koview.' 
 
 " October 30. Called on Mr. Francis Jeffrey, who was not at 
 lioine ; \\rote a note for him in his library, which 1 found was 
 filh'd with books tossed about in confusion, pamphlets, portfolios, 
 and dirt. 
 
 "Prosp/ects more dull and unpromising; and I went to 
 Mv, I'atrick Neil, to ex])ress my intention of going on to London, 
 as my pictures of the Amt . ican Birds were evidently not ap- 
 preciated in Etiinburgh. He remonstrated kindly, spoke en- 
 couragingly, and introduced me to Mr. Lizars, the engraver of 
 Mr. Sclby's Birds. 
 
 " i\rr. Lizars had the greatest admiration for Selby, but no 
 sooner had he looked into my portfolio than he exclaimed, ' My 
 God, I never saw anything like these before ;' and he afterwards 
 said the naturalist, Sir William Jardine, ought to see them 
 immediately. 
 
 " Novemher 1. Professor Jameson has called, Mr. Lizars 
 Iiavino', with his Avarmth of heart, brought the naturalist to see 
 my Collection of Birds. The Professor was very kind, but liis 
 manner of speaking of my drawings leaves nn^ +c suspect that 
 lie may have been quizzing me. 
 
 *' Novemher 2. Breakfasted v.itli Professor Jameson in his 
 splendid house. The Professor's appearance is somewhat re- 
 markable and the oddities of liis hair are worthy of notice. It 
 seems to stand up all over his head and points in various dir^ j- 
 tions, so that it looks strange and uncouth. Around a rough 
 exterior he owns a generous heart, but which is not at first 
 discernible. I felt my career now certain. I was spoken kindly 
 of by the newspapers, and in the streets I heard such rerrarks 
 nuide upon me as — 'that is the French nobleman.' I sjient 
 three very delightful weeks, dining, breakfasting, and visiting 
 many agreeable i)eople in Edinburgh. Professor Jrmeson 
 ]»romised to introduce my work to tiie public in his ' Natural 
 Jiistory Magazine,' and Professor Wilson (Christopher Nortli) 
 jflered me his services in the pages of * jMaga.' 
 
 " Professor Wilson likewise vohniteered to introduce me to 
 Sir Walter Scott, and J\[r. Combe, the phrenologist. Mr. Syme, 
 the porti-ait painter, retpiested mo to sit for my portrait. A 
 
 comm 
 nie ai 
 my di 
 per dii 
 
' of tlio ' Edin- 
 
 who was not at 
 lic'h 1 found was 
 Idets, portfolios, 
 
 nid I went to 
 g; on to London, 
 idcnitly not ap- 
 ndly, spolco en- 
 tile engraver of 
 
 r Selby, bnt no 
 exclaimed, ' My 
 d he afterwards 
 it to see them 
 
 k1, Mr. Lizars 
 
 naturalist to seo 
 
 y kind, but his 
 
 +c susj^ect that 
 
 imeson in his 
 
 somewhat re- 
 
 of notice. It 
 
 various dir*" :- 
 
 round a rough 
 
 is not at first 
 
 spoken kindly 
 
 such ren^arks 
 
 nan.' I sjient 
 
 and visiting 
 
 'ssor Jmieson 
 
 his 'Natural 
 
 tophor Nortli) 
 
 reduce me to 
 t. ]\[r. Syme, 
 Y portrait. A 
 
 DINNER OF TllR ANTIQUARIAN SOCIETY. 
 
 Ill 
 
 committee from the lioyal Institution of Edinburgh called upon 
 nie and offered me the use of tlie rooms for the exhibition of 
 my drawings, and the receipts from this source amounted to £5 
 per day. 
 
 " What, however, most pleased me was the offer of j\[r. Ijizars 
 to bring out a first number of my 'Birds of America,' tlie plates 
 to be tlie size of life. I have obtained from Mr. Ivathbone his 
 iiamo as a subscriber, and have written to him with a prospectus, 
 and explained tliat I shall travel about with a specimen 
 number until I obtained three hundred subscribers, which will 
 assure the success of the work. Sir William Jardine, now in 
 tlio midst of his extensive ornithological publication, spcu'ls 
 many hours a day beside me oxannning my manner of work, 
 and he has invited me to make a long visit to his residence in 
 tlie country. 
 
 " Kovemher 28. Saw to-day the first-proof of the first engrav- 
 ing of my American ]3irds, and was very well pleased with its 
 a})pearance. 
 
 " Kovemher 29. Sir Walter Scott has promised to a friend to 
 come and see my drawings. Invited to dine with the Antiquarian 
 Society at the Waterloo Hotel. Mot the Earl of Elgin at the 
 dinner, who was very cordial. The dinner was sumptuous, the 
 first course being all Scotch dishes, a novelty to me, and con- 
 sisting of marrow-bones, cod-fish heads stuffed with oatmeal and 
 garlick, blackpudding, sheejisheads, &c. Lord Elgin presided, 
 and after dinner, with an auctioneer's mallet brought the com- 
 pany to order by rapping sharply on the table. He then rose 
 and said, ' The King, four-times-four !' All rose and drank the 
 monarch's health, the president saying, ' ip ! ip ! ip !' followed 
 by sixteeen cheers. i\[r. Skein, first secretary to the Society, 
 drank my own health, prefacing the toast with many flatteries, 
 f.ud wliich made me feel very faint and chill. I was expected 
 to make a speech but could not, and never had tried. Being 
 called on for a reply, I said, ' Gientlemen, my incapacity for 
 words to respond to your fiattering notice is hardly exceeded by 
 that of the birds now hanging on the walls of your Institution. 
 I am truly obliged to you for your favours, and can only say, 
 God bless you all, and may your Society prosper.' I sat down 
 with the perspiration running over me, and was glad to drink off 
 
 ^ii< 
 
 
 Q 
 '' lit 
 
 ; III 
 
 "(I 
 
 < 
 
W' 
 
 
 3 *; 
 
 ni 
 
 LIFE OP AUDUBON. 
 
 
 a glass of wino that Sir. Lizars kindly handed to me in my 
 distress. Some Scottish songs were sung ; and William Allen, 
 the lainous Scottish painter, concluded the fun by giving a droll 
 imitation of the buzzing of a bee about the room, i'ollowing it 
 and striking at it with his handkerchief as if it was flying from 
 him." 
 
 " N'ovemler ?>0. The picture representing myself dressed in n 
 wolfs-skin coat is finished, and although the likeness is not good, 
 the picture will be hung to-morrow in the Exhibition room. 
 
 " Decemler 1. Lord Elgin and another nobleman visited my 
 Exhibition to-day, and talked with me about my work and 
 prospects. Fifteen pounds were drawn at the Exhibition to-day. 
 
 " Deceniber 2. Breakfasted with the wonderful David Bridges, 
 who commenced to dust his furniture witli his handkerchief. I 
 hear that Professor Wilson has been preparing an article iipon 
 me and my ornithological labours for ' Blackwood's Magazine.' 
 Dined with Dr. Brown, a very amiable man, and met Professor 
 Jameson. Sir James Hall and Captain Basil Hall have called 
 upon me to-day, the latter making inquiries in reference to 
 some purpose to visit the United States. 
 
 " December 3. Nearly finished a painting of the Otter in Ti-ap, 
 which Mr. Lizars and Mr. Syme thought excellent. Dr. Knox 
 has kindly promised to propose myr.ame for membership of the 
 Wernerian Natural History Society of Edinburgh. 
 
 "December 10. j\[y success in Edinburgh borders on the 
 miraculous. My book is to be published in numbers containing 
 four birds in each the size of life, in a style surpassing anything 
 now existing, at two guineas a number. The engravings are 
 truly beautiful ; some of them have been coloured and are now 
 on exhibition. 
 
 " December 12. Called on Dr. Brewster and read him an 
 article on the Carrion Crow. After reading the paper 1 was 
 introduced to Mrs. Brewster, a charming woman, whose manner 
 put me at entire ease. 
 
 " December IG. Received a note from Mr. Bathbone, objecting 
 to the large size of my book, which he suspected would be 
 rather ngainst its popularity. Went to tlie Wernerian Society 
 to show Tuy drawings of the Jhizzard. I'rofessor Jameson rose 
 and pronounced quite an eulogy upon my labours, antl tlie 
 
 Hociet 
 Janu 
 Societ 
 "D 
 Hall, 
 acquai 
 questi' 
 the di 
 Hall 
 Anieri 
 
 Up at 
 "De 
 and M 
 streets, 
 on the 
 his wot 
 when t 
 
1 to nie in my 
 William Allen, 
 )y giving a droll 
 )m, following it 
 was flying from 
 
 'If dressed in a 
 ness is not good, 
 litiou room, 
 nan visited my 
 
 my work and 
 diibition to day. 
 
 David Bridges, 
 andkerchief. I 
 in article npon 
 )od's Magazine.' 
 d met Professor 
 all have called 
 in reference to 
 
 Otter in Trap, 
 jnt. Dr. Knox 
 nbersliip of the 
 1. 
 
 oi'ders on the 
 jers containing 
 ssing anything 
 jngravings arc 
 id and are now 
 
 read him au 
 e paper 1 was 
 whose manner 
 
 )one, objecting 
 ted would be 
 lerian Society 
 Jameson rose 
 iurs, and the 
 
 GENEROSITY TO A HEaOAli. 
 
 118 
 
 s()(;iety passed a vote of thanks npon my labours. Professor 
 Janu'son afterwards proposed mo as an honorary member of the 
 Society, w hich vas carried by acclamation. 
 
 " Dined with Lady Hunter, mother-in-law to Captain Basil 
 Hall, and met Lady Mary Clarke, aged eighty-two, who was 
 acquainted with Generals Wolfe and Montgomery. I had many 
 questions put to me upon subjects connected with America by 
 the distinguished guests I met at the house. Captain Basil 
 Hall has presc-uttd me with a copy of his work upon South 
 America, accompanied by a complimentary note. 
 
 " December 17. Busy painting two cats fighting over a squirrel. 
 Up at candle-light, and worketl at the cats till nine o'clock. 
 
 " December Id. Went to breakfast with Sir William Jardine 
 and Mr. Selby at Barry's Hotel. I was sauntering along the 
 streets, thiidiing of the beautiful aspects of nature, meditating 
 on the power of the great Creator, on the beauty and majesty of 
 his works, and of the skill he had given man to study them, 
 when the whole train of my thoughts was suddenly arrested by 
 a ragged, sickly-looking beggar-boy. His face told of hunger 
 and hardship, and I gave him a shilling and passed on. But 
 turning again, the child was looking after me, and I beckoned 
 to him to return. Taking him back to my lodgings, I gave 
 him all the garments I had which were worn, added five shillings 
 more in money, gave him my blessing, and sent him away 
 rejoicing, and feeling myself as if God had smiled on me. I 
 afterwards breakfasted with Sir William, and gave a lesson in 
 drawing to him and to IMr. Selby. 
 
 "December 2l>. Breakfasted with ^Iv. George Combe, the 
 phrenologist, who examined my head and afterwards measured 
 my skull with the accuracy and })rofessional manner in which 
 I measured the heads, bills, and claws of my birds. Amonj.:; 
 other talents, ho said I possessed largely tlie faculties which 
 would enable me to excel in painting. He noted down liis 
 observations to read at the Plirenological Society. 
 
 " deceived an invitation from the Earl of IMorton to visit him 
 at his seat at some distance from Edinburgh." 
 
 December 2% From the entriis in his journal under this date 
 it appears he had written to his wife that he intended to 
 remove to Newcastle or Ghisgow. "I expect to visit the 
 
 I 
 
 
 »'- 
 
 I 
 
 o 
 
 
114 
 
 LIFE OF AUDU1X)N. 
 
 Duke of Northumberland, who has promised to subscribe for 
 my work. I have taken to dressing again, and now dress twice 
 a-day, and wear silk stockings and pumps. I wear my hair as 
 long as usual. I lelieve it does as much for me as my paintings.* 
 One hundred subscribers for my book will pay all expenses. 
 Some persons are terrified at the sum of one hundred and eighty 
 guineas for a work ; but this amount is to be spread over eight 
 years, during which time the volumes will be gradually com- 
 pleted. I am ieted, feasted, elected honorary member of societies, 
 making money by my exhibition and by my paintings. It is 
 Mr. Audubon here and Mr. Audubon there, and I can only hope 
 that Mr. Audubon will not be made a conceited fool at last. 
 
 " Decemher 23. The exhibition of my birds more crowded 
 than ever. This day I summed up the receipts, and they 
 amounted to eight hundred dollars. 1 have presented my 
 painting of the American Ttirkeys to the Royal Institution for 
 the use of their rooms. A dealer valued the picture at one 
 hundred guineas. 
 
 *' December 25, Christmas. Bought a brooch for Mrs. Audubon. 
 Astonished that the Scotch have no religious ceremony on the 
 Christmas Day. 
 
 " Decemher 27. Went to Dalraahoy, to the Earl of Morton's 
 seat, eight miles from Edinburgh. The countess kindly received 
 me, and introduced me to the carl, a small slender man, tottering 
 on his feet and weaker than a nowly-hatched partridge. He 
 welcomed me with tears in his eyes. The countess is about 
 forty, not handsome, but fine-looking, fair, fresh complexioned, 
 dark flashing eyes, superior intellect and cultivation. She w.,3 
 dressed in a rich crimson silk, and her mother in heavy black 
 satin. 
 
 " My bedroom was a superb parlour with yellow furniture and 
 yellow hangings. After completing my toilet, dinner is announced, 
 and I enter the dining-room, where the servants in livery attend, 
 and one in plain clothes hands about the plates in a napkin, so 
 that liis hand may not touch them. In the morning I visited 
 the stables, and saw four splendid Abyssinian horses with tails 
 reaching to the ground. I saw in the aviary the falcon-hawks 
 used (jf old for hunting with, and which were to be brought to 
 * Italics iiiL' ouv own. Ed. 
 
 the ho 
 ing th« 
 
subscribe for 
 low dress twice 
 vear my hair as 
 i my paintinga.* 
 \,y all expenses, 
 dred and eighty 
 )read over eight 
 
 gradually cora- 
 iber of societies, 
 aintings. It h 
 
 1 can only hope 
 fool at last. 
 
 I more crowded 
 sipts, and they 
 5 presented my 
 ,1 Institution for 
 ; picture at one 
 
 ' Mrs. Audubon, 
 iremony on the 
 
 irl of Morton's 
 
 cindly received 
 
 man, tottering 
 
 partridge. He 
 
 intess is about 
 
 complexioned, 
 
 ition. She w.j 
 
 in heavy black 
 
 w furniture and 
 iv is announced, 
 II livery attend, 
 in a napkin, so 
 rning I visited 
 irses with tails 
 e falcon-hawks 
 e brought to 
 
 MEETING WITH JEFFREY. 
 
 115 
 
 the house in order that T might have an opportunity of witness- 
 ing their evolutions and flight. The hawks were brought with 
 bells and hoods and perched on gloved hands as in the days of 
 chivalry. The countess M'rote her name in my subscription- 
 book, and oflered to pay the price in advance. 
 
 " Decemher 31. Dined with Captain Basil Hall, and met 
 Francis Jeffrey and Mr. M'Culloch, the distinguisJied v/riter on 
 political economy, a plain, simple, and amiable man. Jeffrey is 
 a little man, with a serious fane and dignified air. He looks 
 both shrewd and cunning, and talks witli so much volubility he 
 is rather displeasing. In tlie course of tlie evening Jeffrey 
 seemed to discover that if he was Jeffrey I was Audubon." 
 
 I '2 
 
 c 
 
 
 m 
 
 Jsr 
 
i 
 
 ^ li 
 
 116 
 
 LIFK OV AUmillON. 
 
 I i 
 
 ii':' 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 EniNnuRGn — Thk Roym. Hocikty — Scott — Thk WEUNEniAN Society— 
 
 LlTEBAUY UnDKUTAKINGS — KdiNBUWHI PlOOl'l.E — SyONEY SmITII AM) 
 
 A Skumon — Lkaunki) Company— Coukkhponuenck with Scott — Miss 
 O'Neill thk Ai'tiikss — Mits. Guant — llioii (,'ompany — Piospectus ok 
 the Great Wokk — Odituauy Kotice oe thk IIeho's IIaiu. 
 
 " February 3. Dr. Brewster proposed that I should exhibit tho 
 five phites of my first nuiuhcr of tho Birds of America at tlio 
 Royal Society this evening. Ho is a great optician, and advises 
 me to get n camcra-lucida, so as to take the outline of my birds 
 more rapidly and correctly. Such an instrument would bo 
 Useful in saving time, and a great relief in hot weather, since 
 outlining is the hardest part of the work, and more than half of 
 the labour. I visited the Royal Society at eight o'clock, and 
 laid my large sheets on the table : they were examined and 
 praised. After this we were all called into the great room, 
 and Captain Hall came and took my hand and led me to a seat 
 immediately opposite to Sir Walter Scott, the President, where 
 I had a perfect view of this great man, and studied nature from 
 nature's noblest work. A long lecture followed on the mtro- 
 duction of the Greek language into England, after which the 
 President rose, and all others followed his example. Sir Walter 
 came and shook hands with me, asked how the cold weather of 
 Edinburgh agreed with me, and so attracted the attention 
 of many members to mo, as if 1 had been a distinguished 
 stranger. 
 
 " February 10. Visited the Exhibition at the Royal rnstitution. 
 
KXIIIl'.lTION AT TllK UOYAF, INSTITUTION. 
 
 ir 
 
 •JEniAN Society — 
 DNEY Smith and 
 iTir Scott — Miss 
 
 V — rilOHPECTUS OK 
 
 )'.s Hair. 
 
 lid exhibit tlio 
 
 America at the 
 
 an, and advises 
 
 no of my birds 
 
 iient would be 
 
 weather, since 
 
 •e than lialf of 
 
 it o'cloek, and 
 
 examined and 
 
 le great room, 
 
 d me to a seat 
 
 esident, where 
 
 ;d nature from 
 
 on the iutro- 
 
 'ter which the 
 
 Sir Walter 
 
 )ld weather of 
 
 the attention 
 
 distinguished 
 
 ^al Tnstitutioii. 
 
 Saw the picture of the Black Cocks, whi(^h was put up there for 
 public inspection. I know that the birds are composed and 
 (h'awn as well as any birds evfu* hav(! been; but what a diiferenco 
 exists between the drawing of one bird and the composition of 
 a group, and harmonizing them with a landscaiie and sky, and 
 well-adapted foreground! Who that has ever tried to combine 
 tlicse three different con(!ei)tious in a single picture has not felt 
 a sense of fear while engag(^d in his work ? 1 looked long and 
 ciirefully at the picture of a stag painted by Landseer ; — the 
 style was good, and the brush was handled with tine effect; but 
 li(^ fails in copying Nature, without which the best work will be 
 11 failure. A stag, three dogs, and a Higldand hunter are intro- 
 duced on the canvas ; but the stag has his tongue out and his 
 mouth shut ! The jirincipal dog, a greylujund, has the deer 
 by one ear, while one of his fore-paws is around his leg, as if in 
 the act of fondling with him. The hunter has hu^etl the deer 
 by (mo horn very prettily, and, in the attitude of a ballet-dancer, 
 is about to throw another noose over tlu^ head of the animal. 
 To me, and my friend IJourgeat, or Dr. Pope, sucli a picture is 
 quite a farce ; but it is not so in London, for there are plenty of 
 such jtietures there, and this one created a great sensation 
 iimong the connoisseurs. 
 
 " Captain Hall invited me to take some of my drawings to 
 show Tiady Mansileld, who is his ptirticular friend, and who 
 expressed a desire to see them. Unfortunately she was not 
 at lujme when we called ; but her three daughters and several 
 noblemen who were present examined them. The ladies were 
 handsome, but seemed haughty, and wanting in that refinement 
 of manners and condi'seending courtesy I had seen in the 
 Countess of 3lorton ; and the gentlemen evinced a like lack of 
 ,ii;()od breeding. This did not disturb nu', but I was troubled 
 and pained for Captain Hall, who is so instinctively a gentle- 
 man, because I saw that he felt hurt and mortified. He ra- 
 (juested me to leave my drawings, whi(di I'ost me so many days' 
 labour, and of whi<'li I am so jealous, and I would not add to 
 his [)ain who had proved so kind a friend to me by denying him. 
 Lunch was already on the table, but I was not asked to remain, 
 and I was truly glad of it, and I went away almost unnoticed, 
 and hurried to meet an engagement at the Wernerian rooms. 
 
 
 I 
 
 ■Mi 
 
 CII 
 
 'J 
 
 > 
 
 < 
 
m 
 
 lid 
 
 \AVK Ol-' AlIDUhON. 
 
 "Whon I entered the rooms of the Werneriun Society, they 
 wore full UH an egp^, and I w;i8 told by a friend that the larp' 
 aHS('nd)ly had oonu> iMranse of a rejiort that I was to read ii 
 piper on the habits of the ratth'snake. Professor (Jrahani arose 
 soon after my arrival, and said, ' Mr. President, Mr Audubon 
 has arrived.' ]5ut 1 had been too busy to finish the paper, and 
 Mr. Lizars explainc'd this for me. My engravings were then 
 called for by Professor .Jameson, and th(>y were exanuned and 
 highly praised. The paper on the alligator was finished soon 
 after, and read before the society. 
 
 " A stranger lately aoeosted me in the street, and suggested to 
 me, that if I would ])aint an Osago Indian hunting wild turkeys, 
 it would take with the public and increase my reputation. No 
 doubt it would, for whatever is most strange is most taking now ; 
 but so long as my hair iloats over my shoulders I shall probably 
 attract attention enough ; and if it himg to my heels it would 
 attract more. 
 
 '* February 11. Worked all the morning at the Royal Insti- 
 tution, touching up my pictures hanging there ; several other 
 artists came and worked on theirs also. It was quite amusing 
 to hear them proising one another, and condemning the 
 absent. 
 
 " February 12. Began the day by working hard on the 
 pictures at the rooms of the Scottish Society. And to-day the 
 Antiquarian Society held its first meeting since my election. 
 It is customary for new members to be present ^* such times, 
 and I went, and though I felt rather sheepish, I was warmly 
 congratulated by the members. At one o'clock I visited the 
 rooms of the Royal Society, which were crowded, and tables 
 were set, covered with wine and fruits and other refreshments. 
 The ladies were mostly of noble families, and I saw many there 
 whom I knew. But the Ladies Mansfield passed me several 
 times, without manifesting any recollection of a man who, a few 
 days before, had waited on their ladyships, and shown them his 
 drawings, not for his pleasure, but their benefit. Sir Walter 
 Scott was present, and came towards me and shook hands 
 cordially, and pointing to a picture, said, 'Mr. Audubon, many 
 such scenes have I witnessed in my younger days.' We 
 talked much of all about us, and I woidd gladly have asked 
 
 .1, 1 
 
VAVKll ON IIAUITR OF THK WIM) PKIKON. 
 
 110 
 
 11 Society, tlioy 
 that the liirjrf 
 
 wjw to read u 
 r (Jraham arosti 
 . Mr Audulion 
 
 the j)aj)er, and 
 ings were then 
 
 examined and 
 i finished soon 
 
 id 8U{?p;ested to 
 \2; wild turkeys, 
 <'pntati»)n. No 
 )st takinfj^ now ; 
 shall prohably 
 lieols it would 
 
 he Royal Insti- 
 
 ; several other 
 
 quite amusing 
 
 mdemning the 
 
 hard on the 
 \.nd to-day the 
 e my election, 
 f'* such times, 
 , I was warmly 
 
 I visited the 
 ed, and tables 
 
 refreshments, 
 iw many there 
 id me several 
 lan who, a few 
 lown them his 
 Sir Walter 
 
 shook hands 
 iidubon, many 
 days.' We 
 ly have asked 
 
 him to join me in a glass of wine, but my foolish habit prevented 
 me. Having inquired after the iiealth of his (laughters, 1 
 shortly left him and the room, for I was very hungry ; and 
 altho.igh the table was loaded with delicaeies, and the ladies 
 were enjoying them freely, I say it to my shume, that I had not 
 the eonfideneo to lay my fingers on a singles thing." 
 
 An interval of a week oceurs in the journal, and it is explained 
 by the fact that Audubon was biisily engaged in other compo- 
 sitions, and writing twelve letters of introduction to persons in 
 America for Captain Basil Hall, and preparing an article on the 
 habits of the wild pigeon, which ho had been requested to do, 
 to read before the Natural History Society. Dr. Hrewster saw 
 the latter before it was read, and requested permission to publish 
 it in his journal. "This," says Audubon, "was killing two 
 birds with one stone, because I had promised to write Brewster 
 an article. I began that paper on Wednesday, wrote all day, 
 and sat up until half-past three the next morning ; and so 
 absorbed was my whole soul and spirit in the work, that I felt 
 as if I were in the woods of America among the pigeons, and 
 ray ears were filled with the sound of their rustling wings. 
 After sleeping a few hours, I rose and corrected it. Captain 
 Hall called a few hours after, read the article, and begged a 
 copy : the copy was made, and sent to him at eight o'clock that 
 evening. 
 
 " Captain Hall expressed some doubts as to my views respect- 
 ing the affection and love of pigeons, as if I made it human, and 
 raised the possessors quite above the brutes. I presume the love 
 of the mothc^rs for their young is much the same as the love of 
 woman for her offspring. There is but one kind of love ; God 
 is love, and all his creatui'es derive theirs from his ; only it is 
 modified by the different degrees of intelligence in difterent 
 beings and creatures." * 
 
 On February 20. he writes, in a long letter to his wife ; ** It 
 is impossible yet to say how long I shall remain in England ; at 
 least until I have spent some months in London. I am doing 
 all I can to hasten my plans, but it will take some time to com- 
 plete them. Tiie first number of my birds will be published in 
 l\Iarch, and on the fifth of the month the ballot takes place to 
 de(!ide mv ehn'tion to the lloval Societv, which, if successful, 
 
 
 
 
 ClI 
 
 •J 
 
4ii. 
 
 !' i. 
 
 fi 
 
 fl: v!l 
 
 i 
 
 120 
 
 LIFE OF AUbUHON. 
 
 will be of great advantage to me ; and whether successful or no 
 I shall leave Edinburgh five days after, to visit all the principal 
 towns in the three kingdoms, to obtain subscribers for my 
 work. 
 
 " Februarij 28. A few days of idleness have completely 
 sickened me, and given me what is called the blue-devils so 
 severely, that I feel that the sooner I go to work and drive them 
 off the better, 
 
 "March 1. ]\Ir. Jvidd, a promising young artist in landscape, 
 only nineteen, breakfasted with me to-day, and wo talked on 
 painting a long time, and I was charmed with his talents, and 
 thought what a difference it would have made in my life if I 
 had begun painting in oil at his age and with his ability. It is 
 a sad reflection tl'at I have been compelled to hammer and 
 stammer as if I were working in ojiposition to God's will, and so 
 now am nothing but poor Audubon. I invited him to come to 
 my rooms daily, and to eat and drink with me, and give me tlio 
 pleasure of his compiiny and tlie advantage of his taste in 
 painting. I told him of my ardent desire to improve in the 
 delightful art, and proposcul to begin a new jiicture, in whicli ho 
 should assist with his advice ; and proposing to begin it to- 
 morrow, I took down my portfolio, to select a drawing to co])y 
 in oil. He had never seen my works before, and ajipeared 
 astonished as his eyes ranged over the sheets. He expressed tlie 
 warmest admiration, and said, ' How hopeless must be the task 
 of my giving any instruction to one who can <]raw like this ? 
 I pointed out to him that natiu-e is the great study for the 
 artist, and assured him that the reason why my w'orks pleased 
 him was because they are all exact copies of the works of God, 
 who is the great Architect and perfect Artist ; and impressed on 
 his mind tliis fact, that nature indifferently copied is far superior 
 to the best idealities. " 
 
 " March 3. For the last few days I have worked with my 
 brushes, while it has snowed and blowed as if the devil had cut 
 the strings of the bags of TlColus, and turned all its cold blasts 
 down upon the mists of Scotland to fre(>ze them into snow. It 
 is twenty years since I have seen such a storm. Dined at 
 ]\Ir. Ivitchie's, who is a well-meaning man, and has a well-dt)ing 
 wife. The company was mixed, and some of the ingredients 
 
ucocssful or no 
 11 the principal 
 bribers for my 
 
 ve completely 
 
 blue-devils so 
 
 and drive them 
 
 t in landscape, 
 
 we talked on 
 
 lis talents, and 
 
 in my life if I 
 
 1 ability. It is 
 
 ) hammer and 
 
 d's will, and so 
 
 lim to come to 
 
 ad ijive me the 
 
 if his taste in 
 
 nprove in the 
 
 •e, in which ho 
 
 o begin it to- 
 
 iwing to copy 
 
 and appeared 
 
 expressed the 
 
 ist be the task 
 
 aw like this ? 
 
 study for the 
 
 rtorks pleased 
 
 orks of God, 
 
 impressed on 
 
 s I'ar superior 
 
 vcd with my 
 devil had cut 
 ts cold blasts 
 iito snow. It 
 1. Dined at 
 a well-doinfT 
 ' iiitrre(" 
 
 SERMON BY REV. SYDNEY SMI'l'II. 
 
 121 
 
 hi 
 
 .1 
 
 were raw ; there were learned and ignorant, wise and foolish, 
 making up the heterogeneous assembly. I enjoyed myself; but 
 there was an actor, named Vandenhoff, who performed some 
 theatrical pantomimes, which were disgusting to me. I never 
 saw such pranks in good society before : he tucked one lady's 
 fan in his boot, and broke it, and made an apology for it, and 
 by his familiarity annoyed every one present. I felt more pam 
 i'or his host tlian shame for himself. During the evening he 
 made some unjust remarks about Mv. Lizars, and 1 rebulved him 
 for it, telling him that he wis my friend, and a good man. Ho 
 left soon after, to the great relief of all. 
 
 " March 4. To-day the snow is so deep that the mails from all 
 quarters are interrupted, and people ure wavldling through it in 
 the streets, and giving a lively reprcsen'ation of a Lajiland 
 winter. Breakfasted with tlio Rev. Mv. Newbold, and after- 
 wards was toted to church in a sedan chair. I had never been 
 in one before, and I like to try everything which is going on 
 on tlie face of this strange world. Hut so long as I have two 
 foc't and legs, I never desire to try one of these machines again ; 
 the qnick up-and-dovi , short-swinging motion, reminded me of 
 the sensations I felt during the great earthquak'o in Kentucky. 
 Jiut I was repaid for the ride by hearing a sermon from the 
 Kov. Sydney Smith. It was a sermon to me. Oh ! what a soul 
 there must be in the body of that famous man; what a mingling 
 of energetic and sweet thoughts, \\liat a fount of goodness there 
 must be witliin him ! He made me smile, and he made me think 
 more deeply perhaps than 1 had ever before in my life. He 
 interested me now by ])ain.ting my foibles, and then he pained 
 m(^ by portraying my sins, until ho made my cheeks crimson 
 with shame, and filled my heart with penitential sorrow. And 
 I left the church filled with veneration for God, and reverence 
 for the wonderful man who is so noble an example of his 
 marvellous handywork. We returned to ]\lr. Newbold's for 
 lunch, and from there I walked, tumbled, and pitched home in 
 the deep snow." 
 
 March 5. In a letter to Mrs. Audubon of this date, he tolls 
 her of his election as a member of the Koyal Society, and says: 
 " So poor Audubon, if not rich, thou wilt be honoured at least, 
 and held in esteem among men. 
 
 
 "'•IT 
 
 © 
 
 m 
 
122 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 r :*■ 
 
 ll ■■■a' 
 
 
 
 " MjLYch 6. Finished my picture this morning, and like it 
 better than any I have painted." [He does not say what this 
 picture is, but it is evidently the one mentioned as begun with 
 young Kidd.] " Mr. Ritchie, editor of the ' Scotsman,' askod 
 for a copy of the first number of my birds, to notice it in his 
 paper. Went to the Society of Arts, and saw there many 
 beautiful and remarkable inventions, among them a carriage 
 propelled by steam, which moved with great rapidity and regu- 
 larity. I always enjoy my visits here more than to the literary 
 societies. The time for leaving Edinburgh is drawing near, 
 but I am yet undetermined whether to go first to Glasgow or 
 Dublin, or else to Newcastle, and then to Liverpool, Oxford, 
 Cambridge, and so on to London ; but I shall soon decide and 
 move. 
 
 " March 7. Having determined to leave Edinburgh, my first 
 course is to settle up all my business affairs, and make prepara- 
 tions for the future, and to this end I set about collecting the 
 letters promised me by friends to the different places I proposed 
 to visit. Professor Jameson and Dr. Brewster have made me 
 promise occasionally to contribute some articles for their journals. 
 I mentioned to Dr. Brewster the desire I had for a line from 
 Sir Walter Scott. He told me he was to dine with him that day, 
 and he would mention the subject to him, and he had no doubt 
 he would kindly grant it. Passed the evening at a large party 
 at Mr. Tytler's, where, among other agreeable ladies and 
 gentlemen, I was introduced to Sydney Smith, the famous 
 preacher of last Sunday. Saw his fair daughters, and heard them 
 sweetly sing ; and he and his daughters appointed next Saturday 
 to examine my drawings. 
 
 " March 8. The weather was dreadful last night, wind howl- 
 ing, and, what you would hardly expect, the snow six feet deep 
 in some places. The mail-carriei's from here for London wore 
 obliged to leave their horses, and go on foot with their bags. 
 Wrote the following letter to Sir Walter Scott. 
 
 «**Dear Sib, 
 
 " ' On tlie eve of my departure to visit all parts of the island, 
 and afterwards the principal cities of the Continent, I feel an 
 ardent desire to be honoured by being the bearer of a few linos 
 
li:t']'eii from sir Walter scott. 
 
 123 
 
 i, 
 
 ; t 
 
 »g, and like it 
 
 b say what this 
 
 as begun with 
 
 otsman,' askod 
 
 otice it in his 
 
 w there many 
 
 em a carriage 
 
 idity and regu- 
 
 to tlie literary 
 
 drawing near, 
 
 to Glasgow or 
 
 srpool, Oxford, 
 
 x)n decide and 
 
 burgh, my first 
 make prepara- 
 
 collecting the 
 ices I proposed 
 liave made me 
 r their journals. 
 5r a line from 
 
 him that day, 
 
 had no doubt 
 
 a large party 
 
 de ladies and 
 
 h, the famous 
 
 nd heard them 
 
 next Saturday 
 
 it, wind howl- 
 V six feet deep 
 London wore 
 th their bags. 
 
 from youi' own hand to whoever you may please to intro- 
 duce me. 
 
 " ' I beg this of you witii the hope that my efforts to advance 
 ornithological studies, by the publication of my collections and 
 mauusci-ipts, may be thought worthy of your kind attentions, 
 and an excuse for thus intruding on your precious moments. 
 Should you feel the least scruple, please frankly decline it, 
 and believe me, dear sir, that I value so highly my first 
 reception, when }>roscnted to you by my good friend 
 Captain Basil Hall, and your subsequent civilities, that I 
 never shall cease to be, with the hig'iest respect and admira- 
 tion, 
 
 " ' Your most obedient, humble servant, 
 
 " ' John J. Audubon.' " 
 
 That same evening tho following answer was received. 
 
 '"Dear Mr. Audubon, 
 
 *' ' I am sure you will find many persons better qualified 
 than myself to give you a passport to foreign countries, since 
 circumstances liave prevented our oftener meeting, and my igno- 
 rance does not permit me to say anything on the branches of 
 natural history of which you are so well possessed. But I can 
 easily and truly say, that what I have had the pleasure of see- 
 ing, tomdiing your talents and manners, corresponds ^\ith all I 
 have heard in your favour ; and that I am a sincere believer in 
 the extent of your scientific attainments, though I have not the 
 knowledge necessary to form an accurate judgment on the 
 subject. I sincerely wish much your travels may prove agree- 
 able, and remain, 
 
 " < Very much your 
 
 " ' Obedient servant, 
 
 " ' Walter Scott.' 
 
 " ' Edinburgh, March 8.' " 
 
 "5* 
 
 pi 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 s of the island, 
 lent, I feel an 
 of a few lines 
 
 " Sl)ont the evening at i\riss O'Neill's, the actress. Several 
 ladies and gentlemen of musical ability were present, and after 
 tea Miss O'Neill arose and said she would open the concert. 
 She was beautifully dressed in plain white muslin, her fine 
 
124 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 V'G' 
 
 auburn hair hanging in flowing ringlets about her neck and 
 rose-coloxired scarf over lier shoulders, looking as differently 
 from what she does on the stage as can be imagined. She sang 
 and played sweetly, her large, dark, languid eyes expressing the 
 deep emotions of her soul. She scarcely left off singing for a 
 moment, for as soon as one thing was finished some person 
 called for another, and she readily replied, ' Oh, yes ;' and glees, 
 duets, and trios followed one another, filling the room with her 
 melodies. I thought at last that she must be fotigued, and said 
 so to her. But she replied, ' jMr. Audubon, music is like paint- 
 ing, it never fatigues if one is fond of it, and I am.' We had 
 an elegant supper, and after that more music, and then more 
 refreshments and wine ; this gave new impulse to the song. 
 Miss O'Xeill played, and called on the singers to accompany her. 
 The music travelled along the table, and sometimes leaped acr(>ss 
 it ; gentlemen and ladies took turns, until, looking at my watch, 
 I found that it was past two o'clock, when I arose, and, in spite 
 of many entreaties, shook hands with Miss O'Neill, bowed to the 
 company, and made my exit. 
 
 " March 18. Breakfasted with the ftxmous Mrs. Grant, her son 
 and daughter the only other conipany. She is aged and very 
 deaf, but very intelligent and warm-hearted. We talked of 
 America, and she is really the first person I have met here who 
 knows much about it. She thought it would not be !br the 
 benefit of the slaves to set them free suddenly from their masters' 
 protection. 
 
 " Passed a most imcomfortable evening at Sir James llidflell's. 
 The company was too high for me, for although Sir James and 
 his lady did all tliat could be desired to entertain me, I did not 
 smile nor have a happy thought for the evening ; and liad not 
 Mrs. Hay and Mrs. Captain Hall been present, I should have 
 been very miserable. After dinner, however, my drawings were 
 examined and praised, and they seemed to look on me as less a 
 bear, and I felt relieved. My good friend j\Ir. Hay asked a 
 young Uussiau nolileman who was present if he could not give 
 me some letters to his country, but he was silent. I turned t>» 
 Mr. Hay, and thanked him for his kind intentions in such a way 
 as to turn tlie conversation, and relieve his embar- .ssnient. 
 The best rcconiniendatiou I can have is my own talents, and the 
 
her neck and 
 
 as differently 
 led. She sanir 
 expressing the 
 
 singing for a 
 I some person 
 es ;' and glees, 
 room with her 
 ^ucd, and said 
 3 is like paint- 
 im.' We had 
 ,nd then more 
 
 to the song, 
 ceompany her. 
 i leaped acrc'ss 
 J at my watch, 
 , and, in spite 
 , bowed to the 
 
 jrrant, her son 
 iged and vciy 
 Ve talked of 
 net here who 
 )t be !br the 
 their masters' 
 
 lies Ividilell's. 
 
 r .fames and 
 
 Qe, I did not 
 
 and had not 
 
 sh(jnl'l have 
 
 rawings were 
 
 me as less a 
 
 lay asked a 
 
 )uld not give 
 
 1 turned t»» 
 
 I such a way 
 
 bar- .ssmeiit. 
 
 iits, and the 
 
 PROSPECTUS OF THE BOOK OF BIHDS. 
 
 125 
 
 I'rnits of my own labours, and what others will not do for mo I 
 will try and do for myself. I was very sorry that Mr. Hay's 
 feelings should have been hurt on my account by the young 
 man's silence, but I soon made him at case ngain. Sir James 
 volunteered to give mc letters to Sir Thomas Ackland and Sir 
 Kobert Inglis, both noblemen of distiiiction, and patrons of the 
 science I cultivate. The style hero far surpassed even Lord 
 Morton's ; fine gentlemen waited on us at tabic, and two of them 
 put my cloak al)0ut my shoulders, notwithstanding my remon- 
 stran(3es. 
 
 " March 17. Issued my ' Prospectus ' this morning, for the 
 publication of my great work. 
 
 " The Prospectus. 
 
 " To tliose who have not seen any portion of the author's 
 collection of original drawings, it may be proper to state, that 
 tlieir superiority consists in the accura' ^s to proportion and 
 outline, and the variety and truth of the attitudes and positions 
 of the figures, resulting from the peculiar means discovered and 
 employed by the author, and his attentive examination of the 
 objects portrayed during a long series of years. The author 
 has not contented himself, as others have done, with single profile 
 views, but in very many instances has grouped his figures so as 
 to rejiresent the originals at their natural avocations, and has 
 placed them on branches of trees, decorated with foliage, blossoms, 
 and fruits, or amidst plants of numerous species. Seme are 
 seen pursuing their prey through the air, searching for food 
 amongst the leaves and herbage, sitting in their nests, or feeding 
 their young ; whilst others, of a different nature, swini, Avade, 
 or glide in or over their allotted element. 
 
 " The insects, reptiles, and fishes that form the food of these 
 birds have n-^"- and then Ijcen introduced into the di-awings. 
 In every instance where a difference of ])lumnge exists between 
 the sexes, both the male and the female have been represented ; 
 and the extraordinary changes which some species luidergo in 
 their progress from youth to maturity have been depicted. The 
 plants are all copied from nature, and, as many of the originals 
 
 ^!0' 
 
 
 m 
 
 € 
 
fc ' 
 
 pi M 
 
 120 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 1 . ■,■ -m: ' 
 
 i,„f. 
 
 aro remarkable for their beauty, their usefulnesn, or tlieir rarity, 
 the botanist cannot fail to look upon them with deliglit. 
 
 " The particulars of the plan of the work may be reduced to 
 the following heads : 
 
 " I. The size of the work is double elephant folio, the paper 
 being of the finest quality. 
 
 " II. The engravings are, in every instance, of the exacit 
 dimensions of the drawings, which; without any exception, 
 represent the birds and other objects of their natural size. 
 
 " III. Tlie plates are coloured in the most careful manner from 
 the original drawings. 
 
 *' IV. The work appears in numbers, of which five are published 
 annually, each number consisting of five plates. 
 
 " V. The price of each number is two guineas, payable on 
 delivery." 
 
 Probably no other undertaking of Audubon's life illustrates 
 the indomitable character of the man more fully than this pro- 
 spectus, tie was in a strange country, with no friends but those 
 he had made within a few mouths, and not ready money enough 
 in hand to bring out the first number proposed ; and yet he 
 entered confidently on this undertaking, which was to cost over 
 a hundred thousand dollars, and with no pledge of help, but on 
 the other hand discouragements on all sides, and from his best 
 friends, of the hopelessness of such an undertaking. 
 
 March 19. Under this date we have an amusing entry. 
 Audubon had been frequently importuned by his friends to cut 
 his hair, which he had for years worn in ringlets falling to his 
 shoulders. Hence the obituary : — 
 
 EDINBURGH. 
 March 19, 1827. 
 
 This day my Hair was sacrificed, and the will of God usurped by 
 the wishes of Man. 
 
 As the Barber clipped my locks rapidly, it reminded me of the hor- 
 rible times of tlie French Kevolution, when the same opeiation was 
 l^erformed iipon all the victims murdered by the Guillotine. 
 
 My heart sank low. 
 
 JOHN J. AUDUBON. 
 
 Th 
 
 of ai 
 whicl 
 frien( 
 for L 
 better 
 fashic 
 
or their rarity, 
 eliglit. 
 be reduced to 
 
 olio, tlie paper 
 
 of the exact 
 ny exception, 
 ral size, 
 il manner from 
 
 } are published 
 
 as, payable on 
 
 life illustrates 
 than this pro- 
 ends but those 
 money enough 
 1 ; and yet he 
 18 to cost over 
 [■ help, but on 
 from his best 
 
 nusing entry, 
 friends to cut 
 falling to big 
 
 MOURNING FOR HIS IIAIH. 
 
 127 
 
 ) usiiriHid by 
 
 e of tlie lior- 
 [ximticn was 
 
 JDIIBON. 
 
 The margin of the sheet is painted black, about three-fourths 
 of an inch deep all around, as if in deep mourning for the loss 
 which he had reluctantly submitted to in order to please his 
 friends. He consented, sadly, because he expected soon to leave 
 for London, and Captain Hall persuaded him that it would be 
 better for him to wear it according to the prevailing English 
 fashion ! 
 
 <i 
 
 ,1 
 
 
 mnn\ 
 
 Clli 
 
■i\ 
 
 A 
 J. 
 
 i 
 
 ris 
 
 JilFR OF AUDUBON, 
 
 :, ' i, 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 Pkovincial Canvass fou Suiwcmmous — Vihit to London — Sir Thomas 
 
 LaWUKNCK TlIK AmKHK'AN MlNISTKlt I'UTrifK OK TllK KlN(i OK 
 
 KnoLAND's I'ltlVATK IjIKK — TllK UUKAT WoHK IN I'ltOdliK.SS SlCAltCH 
 
 rou A Coi,ouuEu — lIouRous OF London — The Gueat Wouk Puesented 
 TO THE Kino. 
 
 Quitting Edinburgh with a higli heart, the indomitable 
 natiaralist began his provineial canvass, meeting, as is usual in 
 such eases, with two kinds of treatment— very good and very 
 bad. He visited in succession Newcastle, Leeds, York, Shrews- 
 bury, nnd Manchester, securing a few subscribers at two hundred 
 pounds a head in each place. His diary chronicles minutely all 
 his aifairs — dining-out, tea-drinking, "receiving," — but none 
 are very interesting, and all are pervaded, too, by a quite 
 feminine flutter of admiration for big people. The only incident 
 at all worth recording is a visit paid to Bewick the engraver, 
 but as it adds nothing to our knowledge of one who was a real 
 genius in his way we pass on to metal more attractive — to 
 London, where Audubon continued his canvass, with great success 
 among the aristocracy. From a confused heap of memoranda 
 we take a few notes of this London visit, suppressing niucli, 
 and somewhat doubtfid of the relevancy even of what we select. 
 " Sir Thomas Lawrence. — My first call on t'lis great artist 
 and idoli/ed j)ortrait-painter of Great Britain, \v lose works are 
 known over the whole world, was at half-past eight in the 
 moming. I was assured he wo\dd be as hard at work at that 
 time as I usually am. I took with me my letters and portl'olio, 
 
VISIT TO Sin THOMAS LAWRENCF,. 
 
 129 
 
 witli some original drawings. The servant said his master was 
 in ; I gave my name, and waited abont five minutes, when he 
 came down from liisroom. ills manner and reception impressed 
 me most favourably, and I was surprised to find him dressed as 
 if for the whole day, in a simple but clean garb. He shook my 
 hand, read my letters, and so gave me time to gltmce at the 
 marble figures in the room and to examine his faoy. It did not 
 show the marks of genius that I expected in one so eminent, but 
 looked pale and pensive. After reading my letters he said ho 
 was pleased o meet another American introduced to him by 
 his friend Sully, adding, that he wished much to see th 
 drawings of a man so highly spoken of, and appointing next 
 Thursday to call on me. He took a large card and wrote the 
 appointment on it, and put it back in its place. 
 
 " Sir Thomas is no ornithologist, and therefore could not well 
 judge of the correctness of the detail of my drawings, which can 
 bo appreciated fully only by those who are acquainted with the 
 science of which I myself am yet only a student. But I found 
 that he had a perfect idea of the rules of drawing any object 
 whatever, as well of the forms and composition, or management 
 of the objects offered for the inspection of his keen eyes. I 
 thought from his face that he looked at them with astonishment 
 and pleasure, although he did not open his lips until I had shown 
 the last drawing, when he asked if I ' painted in oils ?' On 
 answering him in the affirmative, he invited mo to examine his 
 rooms. The room where he painted, to my utter astonishment, 
 had a southern light : upon his easel was a canvas (kitcat), on 
 which was a perfect drawing in black chalk, beautifully finished, 
 of a nobleman, and on a large easel a full-size portrait of a 
 noble lady, represented in the open air ; and on the latter he wont 
 to work. I saw that his pallet was enorm()U3, and looked as if 
 already prepared with the various tints wanted by some one else, 
 and that he had an almost iiniumerable number of brushes and 
 pencils of all descriptions. He now glazed one part of his 
 picture, and then retouched another part with fine colours, and 
 in a deliberate way which did not indicate that ho was in any 
 hasto to finish it. He next laid down his pallet, and, turning 
 to the chalk drawing upon the unpainted canvas, asked me how 
 I liked his manner of proceeding ? But as no compliment could 
 
 K 
 
 
 m 
 
4'. 
 
 1,1:',- 
 
 1'' :'J' 
 
 130 
 
 L[FE OF AUDUnON. 
 
 bo paid by mo to sucli an artist, I merely said that I thought it 
 the very (luintcssoncc of liis art. A waiter then entered, atul 
 announced that bi-eakfast was ready, lie invited mo to remain 
 and join liim in his ' humble meal,' which I declined, while we 
 walked downstairs together. I remarked on the very largo 
 number of unfinished portraits I saw : to which he mildly replied, 
 ' My dear sir, this is my only misfortune ; I cannot tell if 1 shall 
 over see the day when they will all be finished.' Insisting on 
 my remaining to breakfast, I went in ; it consisted of a few 
 boiled eggs, some dry toast, and tea and coffee. Ho took the 
 first, and I the last: this finished, I bid him good-morning. It 
 was ten o'clock when I left, and as I passed out three carriages 
 were waiting at the door ; and had I not been a student in orni- 
 thology I would have wished myself a Sir Thomas Lawrence, 
 for I thought, that after all the superiority of this wonderful 
 man's talents I could with less powers realize more than he by 
 my own more constant industry. 
 
 " Sir Th ,>mas afterwards paid me three visits : two at my 
 boarding house and one at Mr. Havill's, my engraver ; and I 
 will tell you something of each of them to show you the kind- 
 ness of his heart. It was nine in the morning the first time he 
 came ; he looked at some of my drawings of quadrupeds and 
 birds, both finished and unfinished. He said nothing of their 
 value, but asked me particularly of the prices which I put on 
 them. I mentioned the price of several in order, and to my 
 surprise he s-aid he would bring me a few purchasers that very 
 day if I would remain at home : this I promised, and he left nie 
 very greatly relieved. In about two hours he returned witli 
 two gentlemen, to whom ho did not introduce me, but who were 
 pleased with my work, and one purchased the ' Otter Cauglit in 
 a Trap,' for which he gave me twenty pounds sterling, and the 
 other, ' A Group of Common Babbits,' for fifteen sovereigns. I 
 took the pictures to th(3 carriage which stood at the door, and 
 they departed, leaving me more amazed tlian I had been by 
 their coming. 
 
 *' The second visit was much of the same nature, differing, how- 
 ever, chiefly in the number of persons ho brought with liiui, 
 which was three instead of two ; each one of whom purchased a 
 picture at seven, ten, and thirty -five pounds respectively ; and, 
 
 t,i. 
 
PAINTH A riCTUHE FOR OEOUCE IV. 
 
 lai 
 
 at I thought it 
 
 at the door, and 
 
 iiH h(!foro, tho party and i)icture8 left togotlior in a Rplciidid 
 carriago with liveriod footmen. I longed to know their nanicH, 
 but as Sir Thomas was silent respecting tliem 1 imitated his 
 retioonco in restraining ray curiosity, and remained in muto 
 astonishment. 
 
 " Tlio third call of this remarlcuble man was in consequence of 
 my having painted a picture, witli the intention of presenting it 
 to the King of England, George IV. This picture was tho 
 original of the 'Englisli Pheasants (Surprised by a Spanish Dog.' 
 I had shown it to Sir Walter Waller, who was his majesty's 
 oculist, and he liked tho picture so much, and M'as so pleased 
 with my intention, as was also my friend Mr. Children, tho 
 curator of the British IMuseum, that they prevailed on Sir 
 Thomas to come and see it. He came, and pushed off my roller 
 easel, bade mo hold up the picture, walked from one side of tho 
 room to tho other examining it, and then coming to me tapped 
 me on tho shoulder and said, * Mr. Audubon, that i)icturo is too 
 good to bo given away ; his majesty would accept it, but you 
 never would be benefited by tho gift more than receiving a 
 letter from his private secretary, saying that it had been placed 
 in his collection. That picture is worth three hundred guineas : 
 sell it, and do not give it away.' I thanked him, exhibited the 
 picture, refused three hundred guineas for it soon after, kept it 
 several years, and at last sold it for one hundred guineas to my 
 generous friend John Ileppinstall of Sheffield, l^ngland, und 
 invested the amount in spoons and forks for ray good wife. 
 
 " Without tho sale of these pictvires I Avas a bankrui)t, before 
 my work was scarcely begun, and in two days more I should 
 have seen all my hopes of tho publication blasted ; for Mr. 
 Havill (the engraver) had already called to say that on Saturday 
 I muHt pay him sixty pounds. I then was not only not worth 
 a i)enny, but had actually borrowed five poimds a few days 
 before to purchase materials for my pictures. But these pictures 
 whicli Sir Tliomas sold for mo enabled me to pay my borrowed 
 nK)uey, and to appear full-handed when Mr. Havill v^alled. Thus 
 I passed the liubicon ! 
 
 " At that time I painted all day, and yold my work during 
 the dusky hours of evening, as I walked thi'ougli the Strand 
 and other streets where the Jews reigned ; popping in and out 
 
 K 2 
 
 ?»l 
 
 
 o 
 
 
I ■•>ll 
 
 
 
 h>2 
 
 I.IFR OF AUPtTHON. 
 
 of Jo\v-h1u)J)h or any otluirH, and novcr rofuHing tlio ofTors iniido 
 nu) for tlio |)i(^turcH I carried <juite fresh from tho oawd. Sturt- 
 Vn\^ and 8ur[)riHiiij^ an this may nvvm, it in novorthoh'ss true, 
 and on(» of th(i curious events of my inost extraordinary lifo. 
 Let mo add lierc, that 1 soM Hcvitn copies of tli.* ' Entrapped 
 Otter' in London, IManehester, and Liverpool, besides one copy 
 I)re8ented to my friend Mr. llichard Hathbono, In other pictures, 
 also, I sold from seven to ten copies, merely by changing,' tho 
 course of my randdes ; and strange to say, that when in after 
 years and bett(*r times I called on tho ditferent owners to 
 whom I had sold tho copies, I never found a single one in their 
 hands. And I recollect tliat once, through inadvortenco, 
 when I called at a shop where I had sold a copy of a picture, 
 the dealer bought tho duplicate ac tho same price ho had given 
 for the first I What has become of all those pictures ?" 
 
 About this date Sir Robert Peel returned a letter Audubon 
 had brought to him from Lord Moadowbank, and requested him 
 to hand it over to his successor. This Audubon interpreted as 
 giving him to understand that ho need trouble him no more. The 
 letter was written with the view of gainuig a presentation to the 
 king, and the writer was not a man to easily relinquish an idea or 
 an object which ho had once determined on. Accordingly, ho 
 says, *' I made up my mind to go directly to tho American minister, 
 Mr. Gallatin, and know from him how I shoidd proceed, and if 
 there were really no chance of my approaching tho king nearer 
 than by passing his castle. To pay a visit of this sort in London 
 is really no jok(3 ; but as 1 thought there was a possibility of it 
 for myself, 1 wanted to have the opinion of one who I believe I 
 was capable of deciding the matter. 
 
 " As I reached his presence ho said, laughing, * Always at 
 home, my dear sir, when I am not out.' I understood him 
 perfectly, and explained the object of my visit. His intellectual 
 face lighted up as he replied, ' What a simple man you must be 
 to believe all that is said to you about being introduced to his 
 majesty ! It is impossible, my dear sir ; the king sees nobody ; 
 he has the gout, is peevish, and spends his time playing whist 
 at a shilling a rubber. I had to wait six weeks before I was 
 presented to him in my position of ambassador, and then I 
 merely saw him six or seven minutes. He stood only during 
 
 liiin 
 anv 
 
 'U.: 
 
VISIT TO LORD HPENCKU. 
 
 ia3 
 
 Mo 0001*8 miulo 
 
 10 ousel. Stiirt- 
 vi^'tlioloss true, 
 tnionlinury lilb. 
 tho • EutrupiHMl 
 jesules ono copy 
 n other pieturos, 
 by ehaujj;in;j; tho 
 it when in utter 
 ^ront owners to 
 iglo ono in their 
 h inadvertence, 
 i{)y of a picture, 
 CO ho had given 
 ctnres ?" 
 
 letter Auchibou 
 :k1 requestelhim 
 
 11 interpreted as 
 ;in no more. The 
 esontation to the 
 nquish an idea or 
 
 Accordingly, ho 
 nerican minister, 
 j)roceed, and if 
 
 the king nearer 
 s sort in Ijondon 
 
 possibility of it 
 ) who I believe 1 
 
 ing, * Always at 
 understood him 
 Ills intollectual 
 lau you must bo 
 itroduced to his 
 [ng sees nobody ; 
 lo playing whist 
 iks before I was 
 lor, and then I 
 lood only during 
 
 the tinu' the public functionaries from foreign countries passfvl 
 liiin, and seated liiniself inimediately afterwards, paying scarcely 
 auy attention to the numerous court of English noblemen and 
 gentlemen present.* I waited a moment, and said that I thought 
 till* Duko of Northumb(;rland would interest himself for mo. 
 Again ho huighed, and assured mo that my attempts there woubl 
 prove ineft'octual. ' Think,' continued ho ; ' I have called hundreds 
 of times on like men in England, and been assured that his 
 grace, or lordshii), or ladyshii>, were not at homo, until I havo 
 grown wser, and stay at homo myself, and merely attend to my 
 political business, and God only knows when I will havo done 
 with that. It requires written appointments of a month 
 or six weeks before an interviinv can be obtained.' I then 
 cliangcnl the convcjrsation to other subjects, but he kindly re- 
 turned to it again, and said, ' Should the king hold a leveo 
 whilst you aro here, I will take you to Court, and present you 
 as an American sciontifli; gentleuum, but of eoiiiso would not 
 mention your work.' I renuiined with him a full hour; and, as 
 I was about to leave, he asked me for all the cards I had in my 
 case, and said he would use them well, and find mo visitors if 
 possible. 
 
 "June 18. The work on the first number is yet in the hands of 
 Mr. Lizars, in Edinburgh, and this day I received a letter from 
 liini, saying that ' the colourers had all struck work, and that 
 my work was, in consequence, at a stand.' He asked me to try 
 to find some persons here who would engage in that part of the 
 business, and said ho would oxert himself to make all right 
 again as soon as possible. This was quite a shock to my nerves, 
 and for nearly an hour I deliberated whether I should not go at 
 once to Edinburgh, but an engagement at Lord Spencer's, w hero 
 I expected a subscriber, decided me to remain. I reached his 
 lordship's house about twoiv^e o'clock, and met there Dr. Walter- 
 *on and the lit. Hon. William S. Ponsonby engaged in conver- 
 sation with Lady Spencer, a fat woman, of extremely engaging 
 and unassuming manners. She entered into conversation with 
 me at once about the habits of the wild turkey, how to tame 
 them, and the like ; while the gentlemen examined and praised 
 my drawings, and the two lords subscribed for my work ; and I 
 went oif rejoicing, between two rows of fine waiters, who seemed 
 
 , I 
 
 
 trwux 
 
 ] 
 
 V. IJJ' 
 
 < 
 
134 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 i-1 
 
 
 to wonder who the devil I could be, that Lady Spencer should 
 shake me by the hand, and accompany me to the door. 
 
 "I'rom there I went to Mr. Ponton's, and mot Dr. Dibdin, 
 ani: twenty ladies and gentlemen, who had assembled to see my 
 drawings. Here four more subscribers wore obtained. This, I 
 thought, was a pretty good day's work ; but on returning homo 
 I found a note from Mr. Vigors, giving the name of another sub- 
 scriber, and informing me of the arrival of Charles Bonapai-te 
 in tlie city. I walked to the lodgings of the Prince of Musignano : 
 he was out. I left my card, and soon after my return a servant 
 told me he was below ; I was not long in getting down stairs, 
 and soon grasped h js hand ; we were mutually glad to meet on 
 tiiis distant shore, His mustachios and bearded chin and his 
 fine head and eye were all unchanged. He wished to see all 
 my drawings, and for almost the only time in England I opened 
 my portfolio with intense pleasure. He said tliey were worthy 
 to be published, and I felt proud of his opinion. 
 
 " As soon as he hud gone my thouglits returned to the 
 colourers, and I started off at once to find some, but no success ; 
 all the establishments of the kind were closed from want of 
 em})loyinent But happening to pass a print-shop, I inquired if 
 the proprietor knew of any colourers, and he at once gave nie 
 the name of one, wlio offered to ^^ork cheaper than I was paying 
 in Edinburgh ; and I wrote instantly to IMr. Lizars to send me 
 t\venty-fiv'> copies ; and so I hope all will go on well again. 
 After a long hunt I entered a long dark alley in search of the 
 colourer's house to which I had been directed. It was ten 
 o'clock, and after mounting two stories in search of the man, I 
 knocked and a little door wr,s opened. The family were sur- 
 prised by the appearance of a stranger, as much as I was by 
 'vhat I saw. A young man was sitting by a small window 
 drawing ; a woman whom I took to be his mother was washing 
 a few potatoes in hot water ; a younger woman nursed a child, 
 leaning on the only bed in the room ; and six little children, 
 mostly girls, shabby in appearance and sallow in complexion, 
 showed that hunger was not a stranger there. The young man 
 arose, offered me his seat, and asked me politely wliat I wanted. 
 1 told him I was looking for a colourer. He replied that he 
 had once worked at it, but had abandoned the business, because 
 
POVERTY IN LONDON. 
 
 135 
 
 T Spencer should 
 he door. 
 
 mot Dr. Dibdin, 
 mbled to see my 
 btained. This, I 
 I returning homo 
 e of another sub- 
 harles Bonapai-te 
 ceof Musignano: 
 return a servant 
 ting down stairs, 
 glad to meet on 
 led chin and his 
 vished to see all 
 Ingland I opened 
 hey were worthy 
 
 returned to the 
 , but no success ; 
 3d from want of 
 lop, I inquired if 
 ,t once gave me 
 an I was paying 
 zars to send nie 
 on well again. 
 in search of the 
 id. It was ten 
 jh of the man, I 
 amily were sur- 
 ich as I was by 
 
 small window 
 ler was washing 
 nursed a child, 
 
 little children, 
 in complexion, 
 ^he young man 
 what I wanted, 
 -eplied that he 
 usiness, because 
 
 he was unable to support his large family by it, even to provide 
 them bread and potatoes. Pie showed me the work ho was 
 doing : it was a caricature of Canning, hiding himself beliind 
 some Roman Catholic priests, as if listening to their talk ; each 
 one of the priests held a rope in his hand, as if ready to hang 
 their ojiponents, and the whole proved that the man had a good 
 knowledge of drawing. Just then the mother told him break- 
 fast was ready. The poor man begged me to excuse him, saying 
 that he had not tasted anything the day before; that the 
 potatoes were a present, he would eat soon, and then tell me of 
 some colourers now in the business. I sat silently, and saw the 
 food equally divided; the mother, wife, children, and father 
 soon swallowed their share, but it was scarcely enough to 
 appease the hunger of the moment. He gave me as he ate tho 
 names of three men, and, pained by the scene before me, I ro/io 
 to go. Just then the father said to the children and wife, ' It 
 is high time you should go to work,' and asking me at the same 
 time to remain a few moments longer. The family went off, 
 and I felt relieved to know that they had some employment, 
 and asked him what it was. He replied, ' Begging, sir.' All 
 that family, wife, and half-grown girls, turned out in the streets 
 of London to beg. He assured me that with all their united 
 exertions they seldom had more than one meal a day ; and 
 that in an extremity a few days before he had been compelled 
 to sell his best bed to pay the rent of his miserable room. 
 Unfortunately I had but a few shillings with me, because I had 
 been advised to carry neither watch nor money in London, and 
 had not the gratification of doing much to relieve him. He 
 said his caricatiu'es brought him in but little, and that despair 
 had prompted him more than once to drown himself, for he was 
 only a weight on the neck of his wife and children. Oh ! how 
 sick I am of London. 
 
 " Jnne 2L Received a letter from Mr. Lizars, that ho must 
 discontinue my work. Have made an engagement with 
 Sir. Havill for colouring, which I hope will relieve my embarrass- 
 ment. Have painted a great deal to-day. 
 
 " June 22. Am invited to dine at the Royal Society's Club, 
 with Charles Ronaparte. Gave some lessons in drawing to tho 
 daughter of Mr. Children, Mrs. Atkins : she has fine talents, but 
 
 I ; 
 
 ■ : 
 
'f;..i 
 
 130 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 ^'i Ml 
 
 ■I nil 
 
 % 
 
 rf liii 
 
 ■■1 i(ii 
 
 they are not cultivated so highly as Mrs. Edward Roseoe's. This 
 evening Charles Bonaparte came witli Lord Clifton and several 
 other gentlemen to examine my drawings. They were all 
 learned ornithologists, but they all said that there were birds 
 here which they had never dreamed of, and Bonaparte offered 
 to name them for me. I was pleased at the suggestion, and 
 with a pencil he wrote down upwards of fifty names, and invited 
 me to publish them at once in manuscript at the Zoological 
 Society. We had charming discussions about birds and their 
 Jiabits. Oh that our knowledge coxild be arranged into a solid 
 mass ! I am sure that then the best ornithological publication 
 of the birds of my beloved country would be produced. I can- 
 not tell you how it strikes me, when I am at Bonaparte's lodgings, 
 to hear his servant call him ' Your Royal Highness.' I think it 
 ridiculous in the extreme, and cannot imagine how good Charles 
 can bear it ; but probably he does bear it because he is Grood 
 Charles. 
 
 " July 2. I am so completely out of spirits, that I have several 
 times opened my book, held the pen, and felt anxious to write ; 
 but all in vain. I am too dull, too mournful. 
 
 " I have given the copy of my first number of the Birds to 
 Mr. Children, a proof : it is the only one in existence, for which 
 he paid me the price of all the subscribers, i.e., two guineas, and 
 I may say with safety that the two guineas are the only two I 
 have had on account of that work. I have finished another 
 picture of the Rabbits, and am glad of it ; it is all my consola- 
 tion. I wish I were out of London." 
 
 But it does not appear that Audubon's despondency lasted 
 very long. He dispelled it by a sudden rush into the provinces, 
 where he was well received by former friends. From an 
 entry made at Leeds on September 30, it is clear that even in 
 London the sun had begun to shine out again. 
 
 " Nearly three mouths siuce I touched one of the sheets of 
 my dear book. And I am quite ashamed of it, for I have had 
 several interesting incidents to record, well deserving of relation, 
 even in my poor humble style — a style much resembling my 
 'painting in oil. Now, nevertheless, I will recapitulate and note 
 down as quickly as possible the primary ones. 
 
 " 1. I removed the publication of my ornithological work 
 
 from 
 Hav 
 on t( 
 chea 
 
 «2 
 
 liislV 
 ofm^ 
 His] 
 it un 
 and 
 do, b 
 of all 
 lior n 
 
 reigu! 
 
 
Roseoe's. This 
 on and several 
 They were all 
 lere were birds 
 naparte offered 
 suggestion, and 
 les, and invited 
 the Zoological 
 )irds and their 
 ;ed into a solid 
 3al publication 
 )duced. I can- 
 )arte's lodgings, 
 ess.' I think it 
 w good Charles 
 luse he is Good 
 
 ; I have several 
 xious to write ; 
 
 f the Birds to 
 
 nee, for which 
 
 guineas, and 
 
 10 only two I 
 
 lished another 
 
 1 my consola- 
 
 jndency lasted 
 ihe provinces, 
 From an 
 that even in 
 
 the sheets of 
 3r I have had 
 ng of relation, 
 sembliug my 
 date and note 
 
 )logical work 
 
 PATRONAGE OF THE KING. 
 
 137 
 
 
 from Edinburgh to London ; from Mr. Lizars to Mr. Robert 
 Havill, No. 79 Newman Street ; because at Edinburgh it came 
 on too slowly, and also because I can have it done better and 
 cheaper in London. 
 
 " 2. The King ! My dear Book ! Had my work presented to 
 liis Majesty by Sir Walter Waller, Bart, K.C.H., at the request 
 of my most excellent friend .J. P. Children, of the British Museum. 
 His Majesty was pleased to call it fine, and permitted me to publish 
 it under his particular patronage, approbation, and protection ; 
 and became a subscriber on usual terms, not as kings generally 
 do, but as a gentleman. And I look on such a deed as worthy 
 of all kings in general. The Duchess of Clarence also put down 
 lier name ; and all my friends speak as if a mountain of sove- 
 reigns had dropped in an ample purse at once — and for me !" 
 
 "li- 
 fe 
 
 "•Bis 
 
 a 
 
 HI 
 
 < 
 
if 
 
 I' 
 
 138 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 'I'M 
 
 'iiii 
 
 iiiit 
 
 ,' iii'i 
 
 i k 
 
 I ! 
 
 ' i.. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 Visit to Paris — Baron Cuvikr — Streets of Paris — A Party at 
 Cuvier's — Gkoffroy St. liiiiAiRE — Kecei'tion at the Academy of 
 SoiENCE!') — The Prince and Princess d'Essi-ing — Visits to Great 
 Officials— CoNDiij.oT — Poverty of French Academy — More op 
 CuviER and his Home. 
 
 On September Ist, 1828, Audubon quitted London for Paris, 
 and his diary freshens a little after the salt breeze of the 
 Channel. Much space, however, is as usual devoted to matters 
 quite trivial in themselves, and not likely to interest any circle 
 beyond the little domestic one for which the pages were intended. 
 The enjoyment of fresh scenes is youthful and honest — quite 
 unlike the pleasure of more sophisticated persons. Indeed, a 
 little coquetry, much physical strength, tolerable intelligence, 
 intense love of change, all blended \\ith a natui'e innocent and 
 wholesome, formed the character of our wanderer. He roves 
 like an Arab, and he prattles like a child ; light-footed as an 
 elk in the free air, he turns bovine and ruminant when he tries 
 to be wise in cities. 
 
 On arriving in Paris, his first visit was to the Jardin des 
 Plantes, and to the great Cuvier. We shall select in series his 
 notes on this and other matters, suppressing, as before, all the 
 utterly pointless matter which fills up the diary under so many 
 a date. 
 
 " We knocked, and asked for Baron Cuvier : he was in, bat 
 we were told was too busy to be seen. However, being deter- 
 mined to look at the great man, we waited and knocked again, 
 
s — A Party at 
 thk acadkmy of 
 ■Visits to Gkkat 
 jademy — moiie of 
 
 mdon for Paris, 
 
 t breeze of the 
 
 voted to matters 
 
 tercst any circle 
 
 s were intended. 
 
 honest — quite 
 
 ons. Indeed, u 
 
 jle intelligence, 
 
 e innocent and 
 
 erer. He roves 
 
 ■ht-footed as an 
 
 it when ho tries 
 
 the Jardin des 
 3ct in series bis 
 IS before, all the 
 
 under so many 
 
 he was in, but 
 
 er, being deter- 
 
 knocked again, 
 
 VISIT TO BAUON CUVlEll. 
 
 139 
 
 and with a degree of firmness sent up our names. The m<^8songer 
 returned, bowed, and led us up-stairs, where, in a minute, 
 Monsieur le Baron, like an excellent good man, camo to us. 
 Ho had heard much of my friend Swainson, and greeted him as 
 he deserves, and was polite and kind to me. although he had 
 never heard of me before. I looked at him, and here follows 
 the result. Age, about sixty-five ; size, corpulent, five feet and 
 five, English measure ; head large, face wrinkled and brownish ; 
 eyes, very brilliant and spai'kling; nose, aquiline, large, and 
 red ; mouth, large, with good lips ; teeth, lew, and blunted by 
 age, excepting one on the lower jaw, which was massive, 
 measuring nearly three-quarters of an inch square. This was 
 Baron Ouvier ; I have described him almost as if a neiv species 
 of a man, from the mere skin. But as he has invited us to 
 dine with him next Saturday at six o'clock, and I expect to 
 have an opportunity of seeing more of him, I will then describe 
 his habits as far as I am able. 
 
 " Septemher 5. After a breakfast of grapes, figs, sardines, and 
 French coffee, friend Swainson and I proceeded to the Jardin 
 des Plantes, by the side of the river Seine, which here, Lucy, is 
 not so large as the Bayou Sara, where I have often watched the 
 alligators while bathing. Walking in Paris is disagreeable in the 
 extreme. The streets are actually paved, but with scarcely a side 
 walk, and a large gutter filled with dirty black water runs 
 through the centre of each, and the people go about without 
 any kind of order, either along the centre, or near the houses ; 
 carriages, carts, and so forth do the same, and I have wondered 
 that so few accidents take place. We saw a very ugly iron 
 bridge at the entrance called Pont Neuf, where stands the 
 splendid statue of Henry IV. We were more attracted, however, 
 by the sight of the immense number of birds offered for sale 
 along the quays, and saw some rare specimens. A woman took 
 us into her house, and showed us some hundreds from Bengal 
 and Senegal, which quite surprised us. 
 
 " Weary with walking, we took a cabriolet, that brought us for 
 twenty-live sous to the Jardin, and wo went to our appointment 
 with Baron Cuvier. We saw him, and he gave us a ticket to 
 admit us to the Musee, and promised us all we wished. In the 
 Mus^e, M. Valencieune was equally kind. Having in my 
 
 !•»»; 
 
 11 
 
 
 •^ 
 
k 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■II' 
 
 mil ' 
 
 <i II 
 
 ill 
 
 140 
 
 LIFE OF AUBUBON. 
 
 pocket a letter of introdiiotion to Geoffroy dc St Ililairc, wo 
 went to his house in the ganluiis, and with liim Ave were parti- 
 cularly pleased. He offered his services with good grace, much 
 as an English gentleman would have done. M. Geoffroy 
 proved to us that he understood the difference of ideas existing 
 between English and Frenchmen perfectly. He repeated the 
 words of Cuvier, and assured us that my work liad never been 
 heard of anywhere in France. He promised to take us to the 
 Academy of Sciences on Monday next. 
 
 " We finally reached home, dressed, and started to dine with 
 Baron Cuvier. We arrived within a minute of the appointed 
 time, were announced by a servant in livery, as in England, and 
 the Baron received and presented us kindly to his only daughter, 
 a small, well-made, good-looking lady, with black sparkling eyes, 
 and altogether extremely amiable. As I seldom go anywhere 
 without meeting some person I have known elsewliere, so it 
 proved here. I found among the company which had arrived 
 before me a fellow of the Linntean Society, who knew me, and 
 who seemed to have spoken to the Baron and his daughter of 
 my work ; and I now perceived a degree of atte'ition from hira 
 which I had not noticed at my first interview. The Baroness 
 came in, an old, good, motherly-looking lady, and the company, 
 sixteen in number, being present, dinner was announced. The 
 Baroness led the way with a gentleman, the Baron took his 
 daughter under his arm, but made Mr. Swaiuson and myself go 
 before him ; and so the company all followed. Mr. Swainson was 
 seated next to Mademoiselle Cuvier, who, fortunately for him, 
 speaks excellent English. I was opposite her, by the side of the 
 Baron, and had at my right elbow the F.L.S. There was not 
 the same show of opulence at this dinner that I have seen in 
 the same rank in England — no, not by any means ; but we had 
 a good dinner, served a la Fran(;aise : all seemed happy, and all 
 went on with more simplicity than in London. The waiter who 
 handed the wine called out the names of three or four different 
 sorts, and each person had his choice. The dinner finished 
 (I mean the eating part), the Baroness rose, and all followed 
 her into the drawing-room, which is the library of the Baron ; 
 and I liked it much, for I cannot bear the drinking-matches of 
 wine at the English tables. We had coffee, and the company 
 
THE ROYAL ACADfiMIE. 
 
 141 
 
 increased rapidly ; and among the new comers wore my 
 acquaintances Captain Parry, Monsieur Condillot, and Mr. 
 Lesson, just returned from a voyage round the world. Cuvier 
 stuck to Mr. Swainson and myself, and we talked ornithology : 
 he asked the price of my work, and I gave him a prospectus. 
 The company now filled the room, and as it grew late, and we 
 had nearly five miles to ride, we left a la Franfaise, very well 
 satisfied with this introductory step among the savans Fran9ais. 
 
 " Septemher 8. Went to pay my respects to Baron Cuvier and 
 Geoffrey St. Hilaire ; found only the former at home ; he 
 invited me to the Royal Institute, and I had just tir^e to return 
 home and reach it before the sitting of the Eoyal Academic des 
 Sciences. I took my portfolio, and, on entering, inquired for 
 Cuvier, who very politely came to me, made the porter put my 
 book on the table, and assigned mo a seat of honour. The seance 
 opened, and a tedious lecture was delivered on the vision of the 
 mole. Mr. Swainson accompanied me. Baron Cuvier then 
 arose, and announced us and spoke of my work. It was 
 shown and admired as usual, and Cuvier was requested to review 
 it for the memoirs of tlie Academy. Cuvier asked me to leave 
 my book. I did, and he commended it to the particular care of 
 tlie librarians, who are to show it to any who desire to see it ; 
 he also said he would propose to the Academy to subscribe to it, 
 and if so, it will be a good day's work. 
 
 "September 9. Went to the Jardin du Roi, where I met 
 young Ceoflfroy, who took me to a man who stufis birds for the 
 Prince d'Essling. He told me tlie Prince had a copy of my 
 work (probably Wilson's or Selby's ?), and said he would sub- 
 scribe if I would call on him to-morrow with him. After 
 this I walked around the boulevards, looking at the strange 
 things I saw there, thinking of my own strange life, and how 
 wonderful my present situation in the land of my father and 
 ancestors. From here I went to the Louvre, and as I was about 
 to pass the gates of the Tuileries, a sentinel stopped me, saying 
 no one could enter there with a fur cap. I went to another 
 gate, and passed without challenge, and went to the Grand 
 Gallery. Tliere, among the Raphaels, and Correggios, Titians, 
 Davids, and thousands of others, I feasted my eyes and enlarged 
 my knowledge. From there I made my way to the Institut de 
 
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 LIFE OF AUDUnON. 
 
 France, and by appointment presented my prospoetus to the 
 secretary of the library. There I met young Geoffrey, an 
 amiable and learned young man, who examined my work, paid 
 mo every attention, and gave me a room to myself for the 
 inspection of specimens and to write in. How very different 
 from the public; institutions in England, where, instead of being 
 bowed to, you have to bow to every one. The porters, clerks, 
 and secretaries had all received orders to do everything I 
 required, and I was looked upon with the greatest respect. I 
 have now run the gauntlet of Europe, Lucy, and may be proud 
 of two tilings — that I am considered the first ornithological 
 painter and the first practical naturalist of America ! 
 
 " Sepiemher 10. Called on the bird-stuffer of the Prince 
 d'Essling, who proposed to take me to the Prince's town residence. 
 We were conducted into his museum, whii'h surpasses in mag- 
 nificerf^e, and in the number of rare 8pe;;Imens of birds, shells, 
 and books, all I have yet seen. We strolled about for a 
 while, when word was sent us, that the Prince being indisposed, 
 we must go to him. I took my pamphlet in my hand, and 
 entered a fine rooir., where he lay reclining on t* sofa ; but on 
 seeing me, he rose up, bowed, and presented me to his beautiful 
 young wife. Wliile untying my book, both of them asked mo 
 some questions, and looked at me with seeming curiosity ; but 
 as soou as a print was seen, they both exclaimed, ' Ah, c'est 
 bien beau !' and tlien asked me if I did not know Charles Bona- 
 parte? And when I answered 'Yes,' they both again said, 'All, 
 it is the same gentleman of whom we have heard so much, the 
 Man of the Woods ; the drawings are all made by him,' etc. 
 The Prince said that he regretted very much that so few 
 persons in France were able to subscribe to such a work, and 
 that I must not expect more than six or eight names in Paris. 
 He named all those whom he or his lady knew, and told me it 
 would give him pleasure to add his name to my list. I drew it 
 out, opened it, and asked him to write it himself: this he did 
 with a good grace, next under the Duke of Kutlaiid. This 
 Prince, son of the famous Marshal Slassenii, is thirty years 
 of aji'e, apparently delicate, pale, slender, and yet good-looking, 
 entirely devoted to Natural History. His wife is a boautil'ul 
 young woman of about twenty, extremely gracel'ul and })olitc. 
 
THE KING'S LIBUAIUAN. 
 
 143 
 
 ospcptus to ihoi 
 g GeoffVoy, an 
 1 my work, paid 
 myself for the 
 w very diflferont 
 instead of beinji; 
 i porters, clerks, 
 lo everything I 
 test respect. I 
 d may be proud 
 t ornithological 
 rica ! 
 
 of the Prince 
 
 8 town residence. 
 
 irpasses in mag- 
 
 of birds, shells, 
 
 led about for a 
 
 »eing indisposed, 
 
 I my hand, and 
 
 ^ u sofa ; but on 
 
 to his beautiful 
 
 them asked me 
 
 y curiosity ; but 
 
 med, ' Ah, c'est 
 
 w Charles Bona- 
 
 agoin said, 'All, 
 
 (1 so much, the 
 
 by him,' etc. 
 
 ih that so few 
 
 ich a work, and 
 
 names in Pari?. 
 
 ', and told me it 
 
 list, I drew it 
 
 ilf: this he did 
 
 Rutland. Tliis 
 
 thirty years 
 
 it good-looking-, 
 
 is a boautilul 
 
 All and jiolitc. 
 
 They both complimented mo on the purity of my French, and 
 wished me all the success T deserved. T went back to my 
 friend in the cabinet, well contented, and we returned to our 
 lodgings. Not liking our rooms at our hotel, to-day I shall 
 remove to the Hotel de France, where I have a large, clean, 
 J nd comfortable room, and pay twenty-five sous per day. But 
 I must tell thee that in France, although a man may be a 
 prince or duke, he is culled simply monsieur, and his lady, 
 madam, and all are as easy of access as men without a great 
 name : this made me quite at my ease with Prince d'Essling. 
 
 " Se2)teinber 11. I have been travelling all over Paris to- 
 day, and have accomplished nothing. Called on M. Geoffrey 
 St. Hilaire, and he gave me some good advice and directions 
 ■ respecting obtaining the king's subscription, and others. 
 
 " Septemler 12. Visited^ at his library, the librarian of the 
 king, M. Van Praet, a small and white-haired gentleman, 
 who assured me in the politest manner imaginable that it was 
 out of the question to subscribe for so heavy a work. He how- 
 ever gave mo a card to introduce me to M. Barbier, a librarian 
 belonging to the king's private library at the Louvre. Here I 
 learned that the inland postage of a single letter from Paris to 
 Loudon is twenty-four sous ; there is a mail to London four 
 times a week. After soine trouble I found the library of the 
 king, because I followed the direction * toujours tout droit,' until 
 quite out of latitude and longitude by tacking and retacking ; 
 but at last I reached the place, and entered a gate fronting tho 
 river, and found M. Barbier absent. But later in the day I found 
 him ; and he, not being able to say anything definite himself, 
 rel'erred me to the Baron de Boullero, iutendaut of the king's 
 household. I wrote to him in French, the first letter I have 
 written in this language in twenty-five years, and I dare say a 
 very curious one to such a personage as he is. 
 
 " September 13. Took my portfolio to Geoffroy de St. Hilaire, 
 and then to Baron Cuvier; the former, after examining it, 
 retracted his opinion respecting its si/. •, and expressed himself 
 pleased with it. A jMons. Dumesnil, a French engraver, was 
 sent to me by Prince d'Essling, and I learned from him that my 
 work could be done better and at less expense in England than 
 iu France. Copper is dearer here than in England, and good 
 
 ! 1 
 
 C: 
 
 
 
 l'.-Ti5 
 
 ;0 
 
 Q 
 
t , 
 
 ' '■■'* 
 
 144 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON, 
 
 ■ V: 
 
 i .1111 Hi 
 
 ■.'i«' 
 
 mil i!i 
 
 colourcrs much nioro Hcarce. I have just rotumod with friend 
 Swainson from Baron Cuvior's, who gives receptions to scientific; 
 men every Saturday. My book was on the table, and Cuvicr 
 received me with especial kindness, and put me at ease. Mons. 
 Condillot I found remarkably amiable, and the company wiw 
 much the same as on last Saturday. I fc»und much pleasure 
 in conversation with Cuvier and M. de Condillot. The former 
 willirigly assented to sit to Mr. Parker for his portrait, and the 
 other told me if I visited Italy I mr.st make his house my homo. 
 My work was examined, and Cuvier pronounced it the finest in 
 existence of the kind. As we attempted to make our escape 
 Cuvier noticed us, and ran after us and took us by the hand, 
 and wished us to return ; but we had a long and dark walk 
 before us, and on that ground excused oiirselves. 
 
 " Septemher 15. Ir; ice is poor indeed! Tliis day I have 
 attended the Koyal Academy of Sciences, and had my plates 
 examined by about one hundred persons. 'Fine, very fine!' 
 iss^i dd from many mouths ; but they uaid also, ' What a work ! 
 what a price i who can pay it ?' I recollected that I had thirty 
 subscribers at Manchester, and mentioned it. They stared, and 
 seemed surprised ; but acknowledged that England, the little 
 island of England, alone was able to support poor Audubon. 
 Some went so far as to say that, had I been here four montlis 
 ago, I should not have had even the Prince d'Essling for a 
 subsc riber. Poor France, thy fine climate, rich vineyards, and 
 the wishes of the learned avail nothing ; thou art a destitute 
 beggar, and not the powerful friend thou wert represented to me. 
 Now it is that I plainly see how happy, or lucky, it was in nie 
 not to have come to Franco first ; for if I had, my work now 
 would not have had even a beginning. It would have perished 
 like a flower in October; and I should have returned to my 
 woods, without the hope of leaving behind that eternal fame 
 which my ambition, industry, and perseverance long to enjoy. 
 Not a subscriber, Lucy ; no, not one ! 
 
 " I have also been again to Cuvier's to-day, to introduce Mr. 
 Parker, to begin his portrait. You would like to hear more of 
 Cuvier and his house. Well, we rang the bell, and a waiter 
 came, and desired that we would wipe our feet : we needed it, 
 for we were very muddy. This over, we followed the man uj> 
 
IJAUON (UTVIKirH SANCTUM. 
 
 115 
 
 and dark walk 
 
 stairs, and in tho first room wo entered I saw a sUglit figuro in 
 Mimic gliding out at an opposite door like a sylph. It was 
 Miss Cnvior, not quite ready to receive company. Off' she flew, 
 like a dovo before falcons. However, we followed our man, 
 who every moment turned to us and repeated, * This way, gentle- 
 men.' Then we passed through eight rooms filled witli btas or 
 hodka, and at last reached a sort of hiboratory, the sanctum 
 sfinctorum of Cuvier ; nothing there but books, the 8k(>letons of 
 aniimils, and reptiles. Our conductor bid us sit, and left us to 
 seek for the Bnron. My eyes were occupied in the interval in 
 exauiiniiig the study of this great man, and my mind in reflect- 
 ing on the wonders of his knowledge. All but order was about 
 his l)ot)k8, and I concluded that he read and studied, and was not 
 ■fond of books because he was the owner of them, as some great 
 men seom to be whom I have known. Our conductor returned 
 directly, and led us to another laboratory, where we found the 
 Ikron. Great men show politeness in a particular way ; they 
 receive you without much demcmstration ; a smile suffices to 
 assure j'ou that you are welcome, and keej) about their avoca- 
 tions as if you were a member of the family. " 
 
 I 
 
 
 L 
 
140 
 
 MPR OF AUDUnON. 
 
 'ill 
 
 ..Mil) I 
 
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 ' nil) III 
 
 i 
 
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 *): 
 
 till ill '■ 
 
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 l"ll«l 
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 ; ''11 
 
 CHAFrER XXVII. 
 
 Txmfi — CuviER — HedontA, the FrowER-rAiNTER — CtrviER's Report on 
 THE Drawinos— Oreat Gatherino at the Institute— The Uei'oiit 
 QUOTED — The Duke of Ori.kanh — Gerard — Birds in Paris and 
 Whimpers from the Woods — Farewell to France. 
 
 " Pakker was introduced while Cuvier was looking at a smull 
 lizard, through a vial of spirits that contained it. I see now 
 his speaking eye, half closed, as if quizzing its qualities, and 
 as he wrote its name with a pencil on a label, he bowed his 
 body in acquiescence. * Come and breakfast with me, Mr. Parker, 
 on Thursday next, at ten o'clock, and I will be your man ;' and 
 on he went quizzing more lizards. 
 
 " Sejptemler 1 8. Went with Parker to Baron Cuvier's. We 
 mot Miss Cuvier, who had made all preparations to receive us. 
 The Baron came in and seated himself in a comfortable arm- 
 chair. Great men, as well as great women, have their share of I 
 vanity, and I soon discovered that the Baron thinks himself a 
 fine-looking man. His daughter seemed to understand this, 
 and remarked, more than once, thft her father had his under j 
 lip much more swelled than usual ^ and she added that the 
 line of his nose v as extremely fine. I passed my fingers over 
 mine, and, lo ! I thought just the same, I see the Baron now 
 quite as plainly as I did this morning, an old green surtout I 
 about him, a neckcloth, that would have wrapped his whole 
 body if unfolded, loosely tied about his chin, and his silver locks 
 looking like those of a man who loves to study books better I 
 than to visit barbers. His fine eye glistened from under his thick I 
 
VISIT 'I'O HErHWTll:. 
 
 147 
 
 IJirVIEU's l^KPORT ON 
 
 MTUTE— The Rki'oiit 
 
 [ilUDS IN I'ARIB AND 
 iNCE. 
 
 joking at a small 
 led it. I see now ' 
 f its qualities, and 
 bel, he bowed his 
 th me, Mr. Parktr, 
 3 your man ;' and I 
 
 m Cuvier's. We 
 lions to receive us, 
 
 comfortable arm- 
 
 ive their share of i 
 thinks himself a | 
 understand this, 
 
 ler had his under 
 
 ^e added that the i 
 my fingers over 
 
 lee the Baron now 
 )ld green surtoutj 
 
 trapped his whole 
 id his silver loeks 
 study books better 
 im under his thick I 
 
 oyobrowH, and he smiled w ho spoke to me. Miss Cuvior is a 
 most agreeable lady, and opening a book, she asked to road 
 alou 1 to \in all; and on she went in a clear, well-accented tone, 
 from a comio play, well cahnilated to amuse us for the time, 
 and during the iiumotony of witting for a portrait, which is 
 always a great bore. Mrs. Ciivier joined us, and I noticed her 
 expression was one of general sadness, and she listened with a 
 melancholy air that depressed my own spirits. The Baron soon 
 expressed himself fatigued, and went ont, and I advised I'arker 
 to keep him as short a time as possible. Wo were in one of 
 his libraries, and ho asked his daughter to show us two portraits 
 of himself, painted some ton years ago. They wore only so 
 HO. Meanwhile the Baron named next Thursday for another 
 sitting, 
 
 " September 20. This morning I had the pleasure of seeing 
 the venerable Redonte, the flower-painter par excellence. After 
 reading Lesueur's note to him, dated five years ago, he looked 
 at me fixedly, and said, * Well, sir, I am truly glad to become 
 acquainted with you ;' and without further ceremony he showed 
 mo his best works. His flowers are grouped with peculiar 
 taste, well drawn and precise in the outlines, and coloured with 
 a pure brilliancy, which resembles Nature immeasurably better 
 than I ever saw it before, lledonte dislikes all that is not pure 
 Nature ; he cannot bear drawings of stuffed birds or quadrupeds, 
 and expressed a desire to see a work wherein Nature is deline- 
 ated m an animated way. He said he dined every Friday at 
 the Duke of Orleans' ; he would take ray work there next week, 
 and obtain his subscription, if not the Duchess's also. He 
 asked for a prospectus, and invited me to return next Wednes- 
 day. I looked over hundreds of his drawings, and learned 
 that he sold them at high jirices, some as high as two hundred 
 and fifty guineas. On my way home I met the secretary of 
 the king's library, who told me that the Baron de la BouUerie 
 had given orders to have my work inspected, and if approved, 
 to subscribe for it. I have found that letters of introduction 
 are not as useful here as in England. Cnvier, to whom 1 had 
 no letter, and to whom my name was unknown before my 
 arrival, is the only nuui who has yet invited me to his house. 
 I wished to go this evening to his scientific soiree, to wh'ch he 
 
 L 2 
 
 
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 ^ 
 
 
 f '*•■ 
 
 V 
 
 %^ 
 
I 
 
 
 
 148 
 
 LIFE OF AUDURON. 
 
 (,' '\: 
 
 4 
 
 ;' Pill"' 
 
 
 iiivitetl me, but I did not, because I liave been two sucecssive 
 Saturdays, and I am afraid of intiuding, although the rude 
 awkwardness I formerly felt has worn nearly smooth. 
 
 " September 22. This was the grand day appointed by Baron 
 Cuvier for reading his report on my work at the French 
 Institute. The French Institute ! Shall I call it superior to 
 the Royal Academy of London ? I cannot better answer the 
 interrogation, than by the reports of the presidents of these 
 institutions on my work. By particular invitation of the Baron, 
 I was at the Institute at half-past one, and no Baron ihevi. 
 I sat opposite the clock, and counted the minutes one after 
 another ; but the clock, insensible to my impatience, moved 
 regularly, and ticked its time just as if Audubon had never 
 existed. I undertook to count the numerous volumes which 
 filled the compartments of tlie library, but my eye became 
 bewildered, and as it reached the distant centre of the hall, 
 rested on the figure of Voltaire ! Poor Voltaire ! had he not 
 his own share of troubles ? how was he treated ? Savants 
 like shadows passed before rae, nodded, and proceeded to their 
 seats, and resting their heads on their hands, looked for more 
 knowledge in different memoirs. I, Lucy, began journeying to 
 America, sailed up its rivers, across its lakes, along its coasts, 
 and up the Mississippi, until I reached Bayou Sara, and leap- 
 ing on shore, and traversing the magnolia forests, bounded 
 towards thee, my dearest friend, — when the clocik struck, and 
 suddenly called me to myself in the Koyal Institute, patiently 
 waiting for the Baron. 
 
 "The number of savants increased, and my watch and tlio 
 clock told that the day was waning. I took a book and read, 
 but it went into my mind and left nu imjiression. The savants 
 increased more and more, and by-and-by among them my quick 
 eye discerns the Baron. I had been asked fifty limes if I were 
 waiting for him, and had been advised to go to his house ; but 
 I sat and watched like a sentinel at his post. I heard his 
 voice and his footstep, and at last saw him, warm, apparently 
 fatigued, and yet extremely kindly, coming towards me, with 
 a ' My dear sir, I am sorry to know that you have waited so 
 long here ; I was in my cabinet ; come with me.' During all 
 this talk, to which I bowed, and followed him, his hand was 
 
BARON CUVIER'S UEPOllT. 
 
 14!) 
 
 two sucoossive 
 
 driving a pencil with great rapidity, and I discovered that he 
 was actually engaged in making his report. I thought of lia 
 Fontaine's ' Fable of the Turtle and the Hare,' and of many 
 other things ; and I was surprised that so great a man, who, 
 of course, being great, must take care of each of his actions 
 with a thousand times more care than a common individual, 
 to prevent falls, when surrounded, as all great men are, by 
 onvy, cowardice, malice, and all other evil spirits, should leave 
 to the last moment the writing of a report, to every word of 
 which tlio ' Forty of France ' would lend a critical ear. We 
 were now in his cabinet ; my enormous book lay before him, 
 and I shifted swiftly the different plates that he had marked 
 for examination. His pencil kept constantly moving ; he turned 
 and returned the sheets of his pamphlet with amazing accuracy, 
 and noted as quickly as he saw all that he saw. We were both 
 wet with perspiration. When this was done, he invited me to 
 call on him to-morrow at half-past ten, and went off towaids 
 the council-room. 
 
 " Sej^temher 23. I waited in Cuvier's departmental section 
 until past eleven, when he came in, as much in a hurry as ever, 
 and yet as kind as ever — always the perfect gentleman. The 
 report had been read, and the Institute, he said, had subscribed 
 for one copy ; and he told me the report would appear in next 
 Saturday's ' Globe.' I called on M. Feuillet, principal librarian 
 of the Institute, to inquire how I was to receive the subscription. 
 He is a large, stout man, had on a hunting-cap, and began by 
 assuring me that the Institute was in the habit of receiving a 
 discount on p\] the works it takes. My upper lip curled, not 
 with pleasure, but a sneer at such a request ; and I told the 
 gentleman I never made discounts on a work which cost me a 
 life of trouble and too much expense ever to be remunerated ; 
 so the matter drojjped. 
 
 " September 24. To-day I was told that Gerard, the great 
 Gerard, tlie pupil of my old master David, wished to see me 
 and my works. I propose to visit him to-morrow. 
 
 " September 25. I have trotted from pillar to post through 
 this big town, from the Palais lloyal to the Jardin du Luxem- 
 bourg, in search of Mons. Le ]\[edecin Bertrand, after a copy 
 (if (Jn vierV lleport ; such is man, all avaricious of praise Iiy 
 
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 150 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 nature. Three times did I go to the ' Globe ' office, from places 
 three miles apart, until at last, wearied and brought to bay, I 
 gave up the chase. At last I went to the king's library, and 
 learned from the librarian — a perfect gentleman — that the court 
 had inspected my work, and were delighted with it ; and he 
 told me that kings were not generally expected to pay for 
 works ; and I gave him to understand that I was able to keep 
 the work if the king did not purchase. 
 
 " To-day I saw the original copy of Cuvier's report on my work. 
 It is quite an eulogium, but not as feelingly written as 
 Mr. Swainson's ; nevertheless, it will give the French an idea 
 of my work, and may do good. 
 
 " The following is an extract translated from the report : — 
 
 " ' The Academy of Sciences have requested me to make a verbal 
 report on the work of Mr. Audubon, laid before it at a former 
 session, on the " Birds of North America." It may be described 
 in a few words as the most magnificent monument which has 
 yet been erected to ornitliology. The author, born in Louisiana, 
 and devoted from his youth to painting, was tweaty-five years 
 ago a pupil in the school of David. Having returned to his 
 own country, he thought he could not make a better use of his 
 talents than by representing the most brilliant productions of 
 that hemisphere. Tiie accurate observation necessary for such 
 representations as he wished to make soon rendered him a 
 naturalist. 
 
 " ' It is in this double capacity of artist and savant that he 
 produced the work, which has been offered to the inspection of 
 ihe Academy. You have been struck by the size of the book, 
 which is equal or superior to the largest of that kind that has 
 ever been published, and is nearly as large as the double plates 
 of the description of Egypt. This extraordinary dimension has 
 enabled him to give specimens of the eagle and vulture of their 
 natural size, and to multiply those which are smaller in such a 
 manner as to represent them in every attitude. 
 
 " * He was thus able to represent on the same plates, and of 
 the natural size, the plants which these birds most commonly 
 Irequent, and to give the fullest detail of their nests and 
 eggs. 
 
 " ' The execution of these phites, wo remarkable for their size, 
 
BARON CUVIER'S IIRPORT. 
 
 161 
 
 ice, from places 
 ought to bay, I 
 g's library, and 
 —that the court 
 ith it; and he 
 ed to pay for 
 IS able to keep 
 
 jrt on my work, 
 gly written as 
 French an idea 
 
 he report : — 
 
 to make a verbal 
 
 it at a former 
 
 ay be described 
 
 Qent which has 
 
 •n in Louisiana, 
 
 eaty-five years 
 
 returned to his 
 
 etter use of his 
 
 productions of 
 
 essary for such 
 
 ndered him a 
 
 savant that he 
 e inspection of 
 e of the book, 
 
 kind that has 
 B double plates 
 
 dimension has 
 ulture of their 
 aller in such a 
 
 plates, and of 
 lost commonly 
 eir nests and 
 
 I'or their size, 
 
 appears to have succeeded equally well with regard to the 
 yj drawing, the engraving, and the colouring. And although 
 it is difficult in colouring to give perspectives with as much 
 effect as in painting, properly so called, that is no defect in a 
 work on natural history. Naturalists prefer the real colour of 
 objects to those accidental tints which are the result of the 
 varied reflections of light necessary to complete picturesque re- 
 presentations, but foreign and even injurious to scientific truth. 
 
 " ' Mr. x4.udubon has already prepared four hundred drawings, 
 which contain nearly two thousand figures, and he proposes to 
 publish them successively if he receives sufficient encouragement 
 from lovers of science. A work conceived and executed on so 
 vast a plan has but one fault, and doubtless in that respect my 
 auditors have already anti(;ipated me ; it is that its expense 
 renders it almost inaccessible to the greater part of those to 
 whom it would be most necessary. It certainly cannot be said 
 that the price is exorbitant. One number of five plates costs 
 two guineas ; each plate comes to only ten or twelve francs. 
 As there will be published but five numbers a year, the annual 
 expense would not be enormous. It is desirable, at least for 
 art as well as science, that the great public libraries — and the 
 wealthy, who love to enrich their collections with works of 
 luxury — should be willing to secure it. 
 
 " * Formerly the European naturalists were obliged to make 
 known to America the riches she possessed ; but now Mit(;liell, 
 Harler, and Bonaparte give back with interest to Europe what 
 America had received. Wilson's history of the " Birds of the 
 United States " equals in elegance our most beautiful works on 
 ornithology. If that of Mr. Audubon should be completed, 
 we shall be obliged to acknowledge that America, in magnifi- 
 cence of execution, has surpassed the old world.' 
 
 '' Septemler 30. Mr. Coutant, the great engraver of Paris, 
 came to see my work to-day. When I opened the book he 
 stared ; and as I turned over the engravings, he exclaimed often, 
 'Oh, mon Dieul quel ouvrage !' Old liedonte also visited me, 
 and brought an answer to my letter from the Due d'Oiieans. 
 At one o'clock I went with my portfolio to the I'alais Royal ; 
 and as I do not see dukes every day, dearest, I will give you 
 an account of my visit. 
 
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 152 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 " The Palais Royal of the Duke of Orleans is actually the 
 entrance of the Palais Royal, the public walk to which we go 
 almost every evening, au'l which is guarded by many sentinels. 
 On the right I saw a large, fat, red-coated man, through the 
 ground window, whom I supposed to be the porter of his Royal 
 Higlniess : he opened the door, and I took off my fur cap, and 
 walked in without ceremony. I gave him my card, and re- 
 quested him to send it up-stairs. He said Monseigneur was 
 not in, but I might go into the antechamber, and I ascended 
 one of the finest staircases my feet had ever trod. They parted 
 at the bottom, in a rounding form of about twenty-fuiu feet in 
 breadth, to meet on the second-floor, on a platform, lighted by 
 a skyliglit, showing the beauties of the surrounding walks, and 
 in front of which wore three doors, two of which I tried in vuiii 
 to open. The third, however, gave way, and I found myself in 
 the outer antechamber, with about twelve servants, who all rose 
 up and stood until I seated myself on a soft, red, velvet-covered 
 bench. Not a word was said to me, and I gazed on the men 
 and place with a strange sensation of awkwardness. The walls 
 were bare, the floor black and white squares of marble, over 
 which a sergeant paced, wearing a broad belt. I waited some 
 minutes, looking on this dumb show, and wondering how long 
 it would last, when I accosted the sergeant, and told him I 
 wished to see the duke, and that I had come here by his order. 
 He made a profound bow. and conducted me to another room, 
 where seveml gentlemen were seated writing, I told one of 
 them my errand, and he immediately showed me into an im- 
 mense and elegantly-furnished apartment, and ordered my book 
 to be brought up. In this room I bowed to two gentlemen 
 vvlioni I knew belonged to the Legion of Honour, ana walked 
 about, examining the fine marble statues and pictures. A 
 gentleman soon entered the room, and coming towards me with 
 an agreeable smile, asked if perchance my name was A udubon. 
 I bowed, and he replied, * Bless me, we thought yo i had gone, 
 and left your portfolio. JMy uncle has been waiting for you 
 twenty minutes ; pray, sir, follow me.' We entered anotlier 
 room, and I saw the duk(! apiiroaching me, and was introduced 
 to him by his nephew. I do not I'ecollect ever having sepu a 
 finer man, in I'orni, deportment, and elegant manners, liiuu 
 
J ! 
 
 I: 1 
 
 MEETS THE DUKE OF ORLEANS, 
 
 153 
 
 this Duke of Orleans. He had my book brought in, and helped 
 me to untie the strings and arrange the table, and began 
 by saying that lie felt a great pleasure in subscribing to the work 
 of an Anieriean ; that he had been kindly treated in the United 
 States, and would never forget it. When the portfolio was 
 opened, and I held up the plate of the Baltimore oriole, with a 
 nest swinging amongst the <^^onder twigs of the yellow poplar, 
 he said, ' This surpasses all I have seen, and I am not astonished 
 now at the eulogium of M. Kedonte.' He spoke partly in 
 English and partly in French, and said much of Americ!i of 
 Pittsburg, the Ohio, New Orleans, the Mississippi and its steam- 
 boats ; and tlien added, ' You are a great and noble nation, a 
 wonderful nation !' The duke promised to write to the iMnperor 
 of Austria for me, and to the King of Sweden, and other 
 crowned heads, and to invite them to subscribe, and requested 
 me to send a note to-day to the Minister of the Interior. I re- 
 mained talking with him and his nephew more than an hour. 
 I asked him to give me his own signature on my list of sub- 
 scribers. He smiled, took it, and wrote, in very legible letters, 
 'Le Due d'Orleans.' I now thought that to remain any longer 
 would be an intrusion, and thanking him respectfully, I bowed, 
 shook hands, and retired. As I passed down the servants stared 
 at me with astonishment, wondering, doubtless, what could 
 have obtained me so long and intimate an interview with their 
 master. 
 
 " October 1. Called to-day on M. Gerard, of whom France 
 may boast without a blush. It was ten o'clock v/hen I reached 
 his hotel ; but as he is an Italian, born at Rome, and retauis 
 the habits of his countrymen, keeps late hours, and seldom 
 takes his tea before one o' clock in the morning, I found him 
 just up, and beginning his day's work. When I entered his 
 roouiH they were filled with persons of both sexes, and as soon 
 as my name was announced, Gerard, a small, well-formed man, 
 came towards me, took my hand, and said, ' Welcome, brother 
 iu arts !' I liked this much, and felt gratified to have broken 
 the ice so easily, and my perspiration subsided. 
 
 " Gerard was all curiosity to sec my drawings, and old Redontc, 
 who was also present, came to me and spoke so highly of them 
 before they were openeil, that 1 feared Gerard would be dis- 
 
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 154 
 
 LIFE OP AUDUBOK. 
 
 appointed. However, the book was opened accidentally at the 
 plate of the parrots, and liei'^.rd, taking it up without speaking, 
 looked at it with an eye as critical as my own for several 
 minutes, put it down, and took up the mocking-birds, and then 
 offering me his hand, said, ' IVIr. Audubon, you are the king of 
 ornithological painters. We are all children in France or 
 Europe. Who would have expc+ed ciich things from the woods 
 of America ?' I received compliments on all sides, and Gerard 
 talked of nothing but my work, and asked me to give him some 
 prospectuses to send to Italy. He also repeated what Baron 
 Cuvier had said in the morning, and hoped that the Minister 
 would order a number of copies for the government. I closed 
 the book, and sauntered around the room, admiring the superb 
 prints, mostly taken from his own paintings. The ladies were all 
 engaged at cards, and money did not appear to be scarce in this 
 part of Paris. Mrs. Gerard is a small, fattish woman, to whom 
 I made a bow, and saw but for a moment. The ladies were 
 dressed very finely, quite in a new fashion to me, pointed 
 corsets before, with some hanging trimmings, and very full 
 robes of rich and differently-coloured satins and other materials. 
 
 " October 20. Nothing to do, and fatigued with looking at 
 Paris. Four subscriptions in seven weeks is very slow work. . . 
 . . The stock-pigeon, or cushat, roosts in the trees of the garden 
 of the Tuileries in considerable numbers. They arrive about 
 sunset, settle at first on the highest trees and driest naked 
 branches, then gradually lower themselves to the trunks of the 
 trees and the thickest parts of the foliage, and remain there all 
 night. They leave at the break of day, and fiy off in a 
 northerly direction. Blackbirds also do the same, and are ex- 
 tremely noisy before dark ; some few rooks and magpies are 
 seen there also. In the Jardin or walks of the Palais Koyal the 
 common sparrows are prodigiously plentiful, very tame, fed by 
 ladies and children, and often killed with blowguns by niis- 
 cliievous boys. The mountain finch passes in scattered numbers 
 over Paris at this season, going northerly. And now, my love, 
 wouldst thou not believe me once more in the woods, and hard 
 at it? Alas! I wish I were. What precious time I am losing 
 in this Europe ! When shall I go home ? 
 
 " October 20. I have not written for several days, because 
 
 I hav( 
 note c 
 subscri 
 Paris, 
 Cuvier 
 rotundi 
 in advti 
 I shall 
 pounds 
 
LEAVES PARIS FOR EN'OLANP. 
 
 155 
 
 1 have been waiting, and had no inclination. Meanwhile a 
 note came from Baron de la Bouillerie, announcing the king's 
 subscription for six copies ; and I have appointed an agent in 
 Paris, and am now ready to leave. J aave bid adieu to Baron 
 Cuvier and Geoffrey St. Hilaire, and have taken a seat in the 
 rotunda for Calais and London direct. I have paid twenty francs 
 in advance, and long for to-morrow, to be on my way to England. 
 I shall have been absent two months, have expended forty 
 pounds, and obtained thirteen subscribers." 
 
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 LIFK OF AUDUBON. 
 
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 CHAPTER xxvrri. 
 
 Return to London — Hahu at Wouk — Skts Sail for Amkuioa. 
 
 " London, Nov. 9. Tins is an eventful day in tlio liistory of iiij 
 great work on the Birds of America. Mr. llavoll lias taken the 
 drawings which are to form the eleventh number, and it will 
 be the first number for the year 1829. I wished several 
 numbers to be engraved as soon as possible, for reasons which, 
 if known to thoe, Lucy, would fill thy heart with joy. 
 
 " Novemler 10. I am painting as much as the short days will 
 allow ; but it is so very cold to my southern constitution, that 
 I am freezing on the side farthest from the fire. I have finished 
 two pictures for the Duke of Orleans — one of the grouse, whicli 
 I regret to part with without a copy, though I have taken the 
 outline. 
 
 " Decemher 23. After so long an absence from thee, my dear 
 Book, it will be difficult to write up a connected record of| 
 intervening events, but I will try and recall what is worth 
 recording. My main occupation has been painting evtry 
 day. I have finished my two largo pictures of the Ea;;le 
 and the Lamb, and the Dog and the Pheasants, and now, 
 as usual, can scarce bear to look at them. Jly amiable pu[)il, 
 Miss Hudson, has kept me company, and her pencil has turned 
 some of my drawings into pictures. I have dined out but ouci', 
 with my friend J. (t. Children, of the British IMuseum, on the 
 Coronation Day ; and there I met several friends and scientitlc 
 acquaintance. 'I'he want of exercise, and close application.. 
 
\j FOR AMEUIOA. 
 
 ;he liistory of lu} 
 srell lias taken the 
 mber, and it will 
 I wished several 
 for reasons which, 
 th joy. 
 
 10 short days will 
 constitution, that 
 I liave tinishod 
 he grouse, which 
 I have taken tlie 
 
 ra thee, my dear 
 nected record of 
 1 what is worth 
 painting evt ry 
 s of the Ea;;le 
 isants, and now, 
 y amiable pupil, 
 )encil has turned 
 ed out but onco, 
 ]\Iuseum, on tlu' 
 ds and scientific 
 080 application, 
 
 CIIIIISTMAH IN ENC.liAND. 
 
 ir)7 
 
 have reduced my flesh very much, and I would have been off 
 foi- Manchester, Liverpool, &c., but have had no complete coj>y 
 of my work to take with mo. 
 
 " Decemler 25. Another Christmas in England ! I dined at 
 Mr. Goddard's, in the furthest opposite' end of London, with a 
 comi)aTiy mostly American. Sir Thomas Lawrence called to 
 see my paintings while I was absent. Mr. Ha veil showed them 
 to liiin, and made the following report to me : — ' Looking at the 
 picture of the Eagle and the Lamb, ho said, " That is a fine 
 picture." He examined it closely, and then turned to the 
 Pheasants, which I call " Sauve qui pent ;" this ho looked at 
 from different points, and with his face close to the canvas, and 
 had it rolled to different points, for more light and new views, 
 but expressed no o[)inion about it. The Otter came next. Ho 
 said, " The animal is very fine." He left, and promised to return 
 in a few days.' I met him soon after, and he told me be \>ould 
 call and make selection of a picture to be exhibited at Somerset 
 House, and would speak to the council about it." 
 
 By this time, as the journal shews, Audubon had resolved 
 to visit America, and had begun to make active preparations 
 for leaving. 
 
 " March 31. It is so long since I havewritttm in my life book, 
 that I felt quite ashamed on opening it to see that the last date 
 was Christmas of last year. Fie, Audubon ! Well, I have 
 made up my mind to go to America, and with some labour and 
 some trouble perfected all arrangements. I have given the 
 agency of my work to my excellent friend Children, of the 
 British Museum, who kindly offered to see to it during my 
 absence. I have settled all my business as well as I could, 
 taken my passage on board the packet-ship Columbia, Captain 
 Jose})1» Delano, to sail from l*ortsmouth, and paid thirty pounds 
 for my passage. 
 
 '^ April 1. I went by mail to the smoky city of Portsmouth ; 
 have hoisted the anchor, am at sea, and s^ea-sich." 
 
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 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 
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 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 A MKnicA —Friends in Nrw York — Two KrrsonEs: the Great Kn(i 
 Harbour and the Great Pine Swamp. 
 
 "The cry of 'land, land, land!' thrice repeated, rousel me 
 from my torpor, and acted like champagne to refresh ray| 
 spirits. I rushed on deck, and saw in the distance a deep gray 
 line, like a wall along the horizon, and toward which the sliip I 
 was rolling and cutting her way. My heart swelled with joy, 
 and all seemed like a pleasant dream at first ; but as soon as the 
 reality was fairly impressed on my mind, tears of joy rolled 
 down my cheeks. I clasped my hands, and fell on my knees, 
 and raising my eyes to heaven — that happy land above— I 
 offered my tiianks to our God, that He had preserved and 
 prospered me in my long absence, and once more jiermitted me 
 to approach these shores so dear to me, and which holds my | 
 heart's best earthly treasures. 
 
 •' May 5. New York. I have brought thee, my Englisli book, | 
 all the way across the Atlantic, too sea-sick to hold any con- 
 verse with thee — sea-sick all the way, until the morning when 
 I saw my dear native land. But no matter, I have safely I 
 landed. We left England with one hundred and fifty souls, 
 and put them all ashore at New York, except one poor black 
 fellow, who thought proper to put an end to his existence by 
 jumping overboard one dark night. A Mr. Benjamin Sinitli 
 subscribed to my work on the passage. He had his family, | 
 eight servants, five dogs, and cloth and twine enough to fly 
 kites the world over — an excellent and benevolent num. 
 
VISIT TO OUEAT KOO IIAIIBOUR. 
 
 IRO 
 
 i : THE Okeat K(i(i 
 
 \MP. 
 
 Gated, rouse; 1 me 
 ne to refresh my 
 tance a deep gray 
 ,ix\ which the sliip I 
 swelled with joy, 
 but as soon as the 
 ears of joy rolled | 
 fell on my knees, 
 y land above— 1 1 
 id preserved and 
 lore })ermitted me 
 which holds my 
 
 my English book, 
 to hold any con- 
 le morning when ] 
 I have safely 
 1 and fifty s(nils, 
 t one poor black 
 
 his existence by 
 Benjamin Smitli I 
 
 had his family, I 
 le enough to fly 
 ent man. 
 
 " My state-room (iompanion was a colonel from Rtissia, named 
 Sir Isaac Coffin, and he did all he could to make the voyage as 
 pleasant as possible under the circumstances. I was well 
 received in Now York by all my acquaintances, and Dr. Pax- 
 allis took me to the Collector of the Customs, who, on reading 
 President Jackson's letters to me, gave free admission to my 
 books ivnd luggage. My work was exhibited hero, and a report 
 made on it to the Now York Lyceum ; and I made the 
 acquaintance of Mr. William Cooper, the friend of Charles 
 Bonaparte, a fine kind person. 
 
 " May 14. I left New York for Philadelphia, in company 
 with Mr. Thomas Wharton, an excellen', but not remarkably 
 intellectual man, and ti)ok board with Mrs. Bradley, in Arch 
 Street. There I spent three days, and then removed to 
 Camden, New Jersey, where I spent three weeks in observing 
 the habits of tlu; migratory warblers and other birds which 
 arrive in vast numbers in the spring. From there I rcturncil 
 to Philadelphia to visit the sea-shores of New Jersey." 
 
 Here follows his elaborate account of that visit. 
 
 "Great Ego Harbour. 
 
 " Having made all the necessary preparations to visit the sea- 
 shores of New Jersey, for the purpose of making myself 
 acquainted with their feathered inhabitants, I left early in 
 June. The weather was pleasant, and the country seemed to 
 smile in the prospect of bright days and gentle gales. Fisher- 
 men-gunners passed daily between Philadelphia and the 
 various small seaports, with Jersey waggons laden with fish, 
 fowls, and other provision, or witli such articles as were required 
 by the families of those hardy boatmen ; and I bargained with 
 one of them to take myself and my baggage to Great Egg 
 Harbour. One afternoon, about sunset, the vehicle halted at 
 ray lodgings, and the conductor intimated that he was anxious 
 to proceed as quickly as possible. A trunk, a couple of guns, 
 and such other articlc-s as are found necessary by persons whose 
 pursuits are .similar to mine, were immediately thrust iuto the 
 waggon, and wi-re followed by their owner. The conductor 
 whistled to his steeds, and off we went at a roinid pace over the 
 loose and dee]) sand that in almost every ]>art of this state forms 
 
 
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 LIFE OF Aununov. 
 
 tl.« biVHis <>(' the niiulH. AUor a wliilo wo ovortooU ii wliulc 
 ciimvnn of similar volnVlcs nioviiifjf in tlu^ Hanuwlirocition ; and 
 wlicii wo <i;(»t noar tlicm our liorncM slackiMio*! thoir paco to a 
 rcfjjular walk, tlio driver Icjtpcd from Ihm aoat, T followed liis 
 cxaiiiplo, and wo prosontly found oiirHclvo.s in the niidtit of a 
 <i;rou[i of merry wagfjjonerH, relating tlieir adventures of the 
 week, it being now {Saturday night. Ono gave intimation of 
 the number of • shoopVluvids * he had taken to town ; another 
 Hpoko of tho curlews wliieli yet remain(>d on th(* Hiinda ; and a 
 third boasted of having gathered ko many dozens of niarsh hens' 
 eggs. I inquired if the lish-hawks were plentiful neur (ireut 
 Egg Harbour, and was answered by an elderly man, wlio, with 
 a laugh, asked if I liad ever seen tho * weak fish ' along tho 
 coast without tho bird in question. Not knowing the aidmal ho 
 had named, I confessed my ignorance, when tho whole party 
 burst into a loud laugh, in which, there being nothing better for 
 it, I joined. 
 
 " About midnight tho caravan readied a half-way house, 
 whore we rested a while. Several roads diverged from this spot, 
 and tho waggons separated, one only keeping us company. 
 Tho night was dark and gloomy, but the sand of the road 
 indicated our course veiy distinctly. Suddenly the gallopinj,' 
 of horses struck my ear, and on looking back, wo perceived that 
 our waggon must in an instant be in imminent danger. The 
 driver leaped off, and drew bis steeds aside, barely in time to 
 allow tho ru!iaways to pass without injuring us. Off they went 
 at full speed, and not long after their owner came up panting, 
 and informed us that they had suddenly taken fright at S(/nie 
 noise proceeding from the woods, but hoped they would soon 
 stop. Immediately after we heard a crash ; then for u lew 
 moments all was silent; but the neighing of the horses pre- 
 sently assured us that they had broken loose. On reaching the 
 spot wo found tho waggon upset, and a few yards further on 
 were tho horses quietly browsing by the road-side. 
 
 " The first dawn of morn in the Jerseys, in the month of 
 June, is worthy of a better description than I can furnish ; and 
 therefore I shall only say that tho moment the sunbeams 
 blazed over the horizon, the loud and mellow notes of the 
 meadow lark saluted our ears. On each side of the road weir 
 
OIIEAT VXUi IIARROUIl. 
 
 ir.i 
 
 (»])(Mi wofnlfl, on the talloHt trops of whiclj I obsprvcil at intorvnls 
 Ihc iH'st of a fisli-lmwk, fur nbovo which tho whitfi-hroastod 
 liinl slowly winjjfod its way as it coiimioiu'cd its early Jounioy to 
 tho 8(^a, tho odour of which filled mo with dolight. In half an 
 hour nioro wo wore in the centre of Groat l']<:<^ Ilarhour. 
 
 " There I had tho good fortune to bo roc(uvod into the lionse 
 of a thoroughbred fishcrnian-gunncr, who, bertides ownitig a com- 
 fortable (!ot, oidy a few hundred yards from the shore, had an 
 excellent woman for a wife, and a little daughter as playful as a 
 kitten, though as wild as a seagull. In hiss than half an hour I 
 was quite at homo, and tho rest of tho day was spent in 
 devotion. Oysters, though reckouiHl out of season at this 
 [)eriod, are as good as ever when fresh from tluu'r b(;ds, and my 
 lirat meal was of some as largo and white as any I have eaten. 
 The sight of them, placed before mo on a clean table, with an 
 honest industrious family in my company, never failed to afford 
 more pleasure than the most sumptuous fare under dilTerent 
 circumstances, and our conversation being simple and harmless, 
 gaiety shtmo in every face. As we became bett(>r acquainted, 
 I had to answer several questions relative to the object of my 
 visit. Tho good man rubbed his hands with joy as I spoke of 
 shooting and fishing, and of long excursions through the swamps 
 and marsluis around. My host was then, and I hope still is, 
 u tall, strong-boned, muficular man, of dark complexion, with 
 eyes as keen as those of the sea eagle. He was a tough walker, 
 laughed at difficulties, and could pull an oar with any man. As 
 to shooting, I have often doubted whether ho or Mr. Egan, the 
 worthy pilot of Indian Isle, was best ; and rarely indeed have I 
 seen either of them miss a shot. 
 
 "At daybreak on Monday I shouldered my double-barrelled gun, 
 and my host carried with him a h" g fowling-piece, a pair of oars, 
 and a pair of oyster-tongs, while li.o wife and daughter brought 
 along a seine. The boat was good, the breeze gentle, and along 
 tlie inlets we sailed for parts well know n to my companions. To 
 such nal lu-alists as are qualified to observe many different objects 
 at the same time, Great Egg Harbour would probably afford as 
 ample a field as any part of our coast, excepting the Florida Keys. 
 Birds of many kinds ar(> abundant, sxs are fishes and testaceous ani- 
 mals. The forests shelter many beautiful plants, and even on the 
 
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 1(12 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 (Iryost sjiud-bar you may ho.q insooto of tlio most hrilliiint tintH. 
 Oiir principal object, however, was to procure certain birds 
 known tlicn* by the name ot'lawyers; and to accomplisli this wo 
 entered and followed for several miles a winding inlet or bayou, 
 which led us to the interior of a vast marsh, whore, after sonic 
 search, we found the birds and their nests. Our seine had bi^Mi 
 placed across the channel, and when wo returned to it the tide 
 had run out and left in it a number of lin(> llslies, some of 
 which we cooked and ate on the spot. One, vhich I con- 
 sidered as a curiosity, was saved and transmitted to IJuron 
 Cuvior. Our repast ended, the seine was spread out to dry, 
 and we a<>;aiu betook oursidvos to the marshes, to pursue our 
 researches until the return of tlie tide. Having collected 
 enough to satisfy us, we took up our oars and returned to tlic 
 shore in front of the tisherinan's house, where wo dragged tlio 
 seine several times with success. 
 
 "In this nninner I passed several weeks along those delight' 
 ful and healthy shores — one dny going to the woods to search the 
 swami)s in which the herons bred, passing another amid the joyous 
 cries of the marsh hens, and on a third carrying slaughter among 
 the white-breasted scniguUs ; by way of amusement sometimes 
 hauling the fish called the ' sheep's-head ' from an eddy along 
 the shoi'o ; v, .itcdiing the gay terns as they danced in the air, or 
 plunged into the water to seize the tiny fry. IMany a drawing I 
 n. ide at Egg Harbour, and many a j)leasant day I spent along 
 its shores ; and much pleasure would it give me once more to 
 visit the good and liapi)y family (Captain Honni's) in whoso 
 house I resided there. 
 
 " Sejifcmher i. Having accomplished my purpose in visiting 
 the sea-shore of New Jersey, I returned to Philadelphia, and 
 uiade i)rci)arations to go to the Great l*ino Swam])^ iu North- 
 umberland (^)unty, Pfmnsylvania. 
 
 "The Hkeat Pine Swamp. 
 
 " I left Philadelidiia at four of the morning by the coacli, 
 with no other accoutrements than I knew to be absolutely 
 necessary for the jaunt which I intended to make. 'J'hoso 
 consisted of a wooden box, containing a small stocdc of linen, 
 drawing-paper, my journal, colours and pencils, together with 
 
' t 
 
 THE GREAT ITNE SWAMP. 
 
 U!3 
 
 any a drawnig 
 
 twpnty-livo pouiKla of shot, somo flints, a diu! quantum of cash, 
 my }j;un, ' Tear Jacket,' ami a heart as true to nature as ever. 
 
 '•Our coaclios are none of the best, nor do tliey move with 
 tlie velocity of those of some other countries. It was eight, and 
 a (hu'k night, when I reached Alauch Chunlc, now so celebrated 
 in the Union for its rich coal-mines, and eighty-eight miles 
 distant from riiiiad- Iphia. I had passed through a diversified 
 country, part of which was highly cultivated, while the rest was 
 yet in a state of nature, and consequently much more agreeable 
 to me. On aligliting I was shown to the travellers' room, and on 
 asking for the landlord, saw coming towards me a fine-looking 
 yoang man, to whom I made known my wishes. He spoke 
 kindly, and offorod to lodge and board me at a much lower rate 
 th.in travellers who go there for the very simple pleasure of 
 being dragged on the railway. In a word, I was fixed in four 
 minutes, and that most comfortably. No sooner had the 
 approach of day been announceil by the cocks of the little 
 village, than I marched out with my gmi and note-book, to 
 ju(lg(^ for myself of the wealth of the country. After traversing 
 much ground, and crossing many steep hills, I returned, if not 
 wearied, at least much disappointed at the extraordinary 
 scarcity of birds. So I bargained to be carried in a cart to the 
 central parts of the (Ireat Tine 8wam[); and although a heavy 
 storm was I'ising, ordered my conductor to proceed. The 
 weather had become tremendous, and we were thoroughly 
 drenched. AVe winded round many a mountain, and at last 
 crossed the highest. Out my resolution being fixed, the Ijoy 
 was obliged to contiime his driving. Having already travelled 
 llftocn miles or so, we left the turnpike and struck up a narrow 
 and bad road, that seemed merely cut out to enable the people 
 of the swanij) to receive the necessary supplies from the village 
 which I had left. Some mistakes were made, and it was almost 
 (lark when a post directed us to the habitation of a Mr. Jedediah 
 Irish, to Mhom I had been recommended. We now rattled 
 down a steep declivity, edged on one side by almost perpen- 
 dicular rocks, and on tlu^ other by a noisy stream, which seemed 
 gnind)ling at th(^ a})proa('h of strang(>rs. Thi^ ground was so 
 overgrown by laurels and tall lunes of dillerent kinds, thnt 
 tli»> whole presented only a mass of darkness. 
 
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 104 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 "At length wo got to the house, the door of wliieh was 
 already opened, the sight of strangers being nothing uncommon 
 in our woods, even in the most remote parts. On entering I 
 was presented with a chair, while my conductor was shown the 
 way to the stable ; and on expi-essing a wish that I should be 
 permitted to remain in the house for some weeks, I was gi-atified 
 by receiving the sanction of the good woman to my proposal, 
 although her husband was then from home. As I immediately 
 fell talking about the nature of the country, and if birds were 
 numerous in the neighbourhood, Mrs. Irish, more au fait to 
 household affiiirs than ornithology, sent for a nephew of her 
 husband, who soon made his appearance, and in whose favour 
 I. became at once prepossessed. He conversed like an educated 
 person, saw that I was comfortably disposed of, and finally bade 
 me good-night, in such a tone as made me quite happy. 
 
 " The storm had rolled away before the first beams of the 
 morning sun shone brightly on the wet foliage, displaying all 
 its richness and beauty. My ears were gi'eeted by the notes, 
 always sweet and mellow, of the wood-thrush, and other 
 songsters. Before I had gone many steps the woods echoed to 
 the report of my gun, and I picked from among the leaves a 
 lovely bird long sought for, but till then sought for in vain. 
 I needed no more, and standing still for a while, I was soon 
 convinced that the Great Pine Swamp harboured manj other 
 objects interesting to me. The young man joined me, bearing 
 his rifle, and offered to accompany me througli the woods, all of 
 which he well Icnew, ]int 1 was anxious to transfer to paper 
 the form and beauty of the little bird I had in my hand : and 
 requesting him to break a twig of blooming laurel, we returned 
 to the house, speaking of nothing else than the picturesque 
 beauty of the coujitry around. 
 
 " A few days passed, during which I became acquainted with 
 my hostess and her sweet children, and made O'^casional rambles, 
 but spent the greater portion of my time m drawing. One 
 morning, as 1 stood near the window of my room, I remarked a 
 tall and powerful man alight from his horse, loose the girth of 
 his saddle, raise the latter with one hand, pass the bridle over 
 the head of the tiuimal with the other, and movi! towards the 
 house, while the horse betook himself to the little brook to 
 
 

 MR. JEDKDTAII Ill/Slf. 
 
 165 
 
 drink. I heard some movement in tlie room below, and again 
 tlie same tall person walked towards the mills and stores, a few 
 hundred yards from the house. In America, business is the 
 first object in view at all times, and right it should bo so. 
 Soon after, my hostess entered my room, accompanied by the 
 fine-looking woodsman, to whom, as Mr. Jedediah Irish, I was 
 introduced. Reader, to describe to you the qualities of that 
 excellent man, were vain; you should know him as I do, to 
 estimate the value of such men in our sequestered forests. 
 He not only made mo welcome, but promised all his assistance 
 in forwarding my views. The long walks and long talks we 
 iiave had together I never can forget, nor the many beautiful 
 bi'rds which we pursued, shot, and admired. The juicy venison, 
 ej:cellent bear's tlesh, and delightful trout that daily formed my 
 food, methinks I can still enjoy. And then what pleasure I 
 had in listening to him, as he read his ftivourite poems of 
 Burns, while my pencil was occupied in smoothing and softening 
 the drawing of the bird before me. Was not this enough to 
 recall to my mind the early impressions that had been made 
 upon it by the description of the golden age, which I here found 
 realized ? The Lehigh about this piace forms numerous short 
 turns between the mountains, and affords frequent falls, as well 
 as, below the falls, deep pools, which render this stream a most 
 valuable one for mills of any kind. Not many years before this 
 date my host was chosen by the agent of the Lehigh Coal 
 Company as their millwright, and manager for cutting down 
 the fine trees which covered the mountains around. Ho Mas 
 young, robust, active, industrious, and persevering. He marched 
 to the spot where his abode now is, witli some workmen, and by 
 dint of hard labour first cleared the road mentioned above, and 
 reached the river at the centre of a bend, where he fixed on 
 erecting various mills. The pass here is so narrow that it looks 
 as if formed by the bursting asunder of the mountain, both 
 sides ascending abru[)tly, so that the place where the settlement 
 was made is in many parts diflticult of access, and the road thcii 
 newly cut was only sufficient to permit men and horses to come 
 to the sjwt where; Jedediah and his iiien were at work. So great 
 in fact were the difficulties of access, that, as he told me, point- 
 ing to a spot about ir)0 feet above us, they for many montiis 
 
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 166 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 slipped from it their barrelled provisions, assisted by ropes, to 
 their camp below. But no sooner was the first saw-mill erected, 
 than the axemen began their devastation. Trees one after 
 another wore, and aro yet constantly heard falling during tlio 
 days, and in calm nights the greedy mills told the sad tale 
 that in r. century the noble forests around should exist no more. 
 Many mills were erected, many dams raised, in defiance of the 
 impetuous Lehigh. One full third of the trees have already 
 been culled, turned into boards, and floated as far as Philadel- 
 phia. In such ail undertaking the cutting of the trees is not all. 
 They have afterwards to be hauled to the edge of the mountains 
 bordering the river, launched into the stream, and led to the 
 mills, over many shallows and difficult places. Whilst I Avas in 
 the Great Pine Swamp, I frequently visited one of the principal 
 places for the launching of logs. I^o see them tumbling from 
 such a height, touching here and there the rough angle o-' a 
 projecting rock, bounding from it M'ith the elasticity (\(' a io'<t 
 ball, and at last falling with awful crash into the river, form.: {, 
 sight interesting in the highest degree, but imposj^ible for vm 
 to describe. Shall 1 tell you that I have seen masses of ll.esf 
 logs heaped above each other to the number of Jlvo th'.,ii-,and? 
 I may so tell you, for such I have seen, ]\Iy friind Irisl; 
 assured me that at some seasons th .->' piles co!;sisted of a 
 much greater number, the river bi'v'(i;ui'>g in these places 
 completely choked up, V. hen iivshct- o: floods take place, 
 tiien is the time chosen for forwarding the logs to the different 
 mills. This is called u ' frolic' .Tedediah Irish, who is generally 
 the leader, proceeds to the upper leap with the men, each 
 provided with a strong wooden handspike and a short-handled 
 axe. They all take to the water, be it summer or winter, like 
 so many Newfoundland spaniels. The logs are gradually de- 
 tached, and after a time are seen floating down the dancing 
 stream, here striking against a rock, and whirling n)any times 
 round, there suddenly checked in dozens by a shallow, over 
 wl ich they have to bo forced with the handspikes. Now they 
 arrive al the edge of a dam, and when the [tarty has arrived at 
 ih.) ].'Ht, which lies just wlun-o my friend Irish's camp was first 
 ibrnte(l,the d-enched Iiaderaud his men, alx ut sixty in numher, 
 \VY.]<r tiieh' way homo, find there a healthful repast, and sjiend 
 
sted by ropes, to 
 saw-mill erected, 
 Trees one nf'tor 
 ling during tlio 
 old the sad tale 
 Id exist no more. 
 I defiance of the 
 ses liavo already 
 
 far as Philadel- 
 e trees is not all. 
 of the mountains 
 , and led to the 
 
 Whilst I was in 
 e of the principal 
 m tumbling ftxni 
 L'ough angle <>f a 
 isticity of a iont 
 the river, form.; fi 
 imp'isHible for lue V 
 1 masses o! liiost. i" 
 
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 )f five tb'oUoand? I 
 
 My frit nd Irisl' 
 
 s consisted of a 
 in tii'.se places 
 
 oods take })li.(e, 
 to the diftereut 
 who is generally 
 
 1 the men, ciicli 
 a short-handlotl 
 
 cr or winter, like 
 re gradually do- 
 wn the dancing 
 ling many times 
 a shallow, over 
 
 )ikes. Now they 
 ty has arrived at 
 's cam[) was tii'st 
 sixty ill nuniher, 
 •epast, and sjicml 
 
 THE RIVEIl LKIIKill. 
 
 l(J7 
 
 the evening and a portion of tlie night in dancing and frolicking 
 hi their own sir iple manner, in the most perfect amity, seldom 
 troubling themselves with the idea of the. labour prepared for 
 thorn on the morrow. That morrow now come, one sounds a 
 hoi-n from the door of the storehouse, at the call of which they 
 all return to their work. The sawyers, the millers, the rafters, 
 and raftsmen are all immediately busy. The mills all are 
 going, and the logs, which a few months before were the 
 supporters of broad and leafy tops, are now in the act of being 
 split asunder. The boards are then launched into the stream, 
 ami rafts are formed of them for mark'ct. 
 
 "During the summer and autumnal months, the Lehigh, a 
 small river of itself, soon becomes extremely shallow, and to 
 " )at the rafts would prove impossible, had not art managed to 
 '>iovide a supply of water for this express pur[)ose. At the 
 i>reast of the lower dam is a curiously-constructed lock, which 
 is opened at the approach of the rafts. 'J'ln^y pass through this 
 lo"k with the rapidity of lightning, pro[)elled by the water that 
 had been accumulated in the dam, and which is of itself gene- 
 rallv sulHcient to float them to oMauch Chunk; after which, 
 entering regular canals, they lind no other impediments, but are 
 conveyed to their nltiniiitc destination. Jiefore population had 
 <ir(>at'y advancetl in this part of Pennsylvania, game of all 
 descrptiohs found in that range was extremely abundant. The 
 elk did not disdain to browse on the shoulders of the mountains 
 near the Lehigh. Pears and the common deer must have been 
 plentiful, as at the moment when I write, many of both kinds 
 are seen and killed by the resident hunters. The wild turkey, 
 the ph(>asant, and the grouse, are tolei'ably abundant ; and as to 
 trout in the streams — ah ! reader, if you are an angler, do go 
 there and try for yourself, h'or my part, I can only say that I 
 have been made weary with pulling u[) from the rivulets the 
 sparkling fish, allured by the struggles of the common grass- 
 lio[)por. 
 
 "A comical aftair ha})pened with some bears, which I shall 
 relate to you, good reader. A party of my friend Irish's 
 raftsmen, returning from IMaucli Chunk one afternoon, thi'ough 
 sundry short ciils over the mountains, at the season when tlu,' 
 huckleberries are riiie and plentiful, were suddenly apprised ol' 
 
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1G8 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 I 
 
 I '"i!»)ii 
 
 the proximity of some of these animals, by their snuffing the 
 air. No sooner was this perceived than, to the astonishment of 
 the party, not fewer than eight bears, I was told, made their 
 appearance. Each man being provided with his short-handled 
 axe, faced about and willingly came to the scratch ; but the 
 assailed soon proved the assailants, and with claw and tooth 
 drove off the men in a twuikling. Down they all rushed from 
 the mountain ; the noise spread quickly ; rifles were soon pro- 
 cured and shouldered ; but when the spot was reached, no bears 
 were to be found ; night forced the hunters back to their homes, 
 and a laugh concluded the affair. 
 
 "I spent six weeks in the Great Piro Forest — swamp it cannot 
 be called — where I made many a drawing. Wishing to leave 
 Pennsylvania, and to follow the migratory flocks of our birds to 
 the south, I bade adieu to the excellent wife and rosy children 
 of my friend, and to his kind nephew. Jedediah Irish, shoulder- 
 ing his licavy rifle, accompanied mo, and trudging directly 
 across the mountains, wo arrived at Mauch Chunk in good time 
 for dinne". At Mauch Chunk, whore w; both spent the night, 
 Mr. White, tl.e civil engineer, visited mo, and looked at my 
 drawings which I had made at the Great Pine Forest. The 
 news he gave me of my sons, then in Kentucky, made me still 
 more anxious to move in their direction ; and long before day- 
 break I shook hands will, the good man of the forest, and found 
 myself moving to\t"ards the capital of Pennsylvania, having t:3 
 my sole companion a sharp frosty bnieze. Left to my thoughts, 
 I felt amazed that such a place as tiie Great Phio Forest should 
 be so little kno\, u to the Philadelphians, scarcely any of whom 
 could direct me towards it. 
 
 " Nigli* came on as I was tliinking of such things, and I was 
 turned out of the coach, in the streets of the fair city, just as 
 the clock struck ten. I cannot say my bones were much rested, 
 but not a moment was to be lost. So I desired a porter to take 
 up my little luggage, and leading him towards the nearest wharf, 
 I found myself soon after gliding across the Delaware, towards 
 my former lodgings in the Jerseys." 
 
in 
 
 \\ 
 
 CHAPTEK XXX. 
 
 TiiK Mekting with his Wike and Sons — Retuhn with hih Wife to 
 
 ENOIiAND — PUOVINCIAL CaNVASS — ThE OuXITnOLOGICAL BlO(iRAl'»Y 
 
 Assisted ry W. McGillivuay — Fublication of the Work — Iveviews 
 — Immknse Sum Kealized and Expended — Sails again fou Ameiuca. 
 
 After remaining a few clays at his lodgings, Audubon started 
 off to his wife and children, who were then residing in the south 
 and west ; Victor at Louisville, Kentucky, and IMrs. Audubon 
 and John at J\[r. Garrett Johnson's, in IMississippi, about one 
 hundred and fifty miles above New Orleans. 
 
 "I crossed the mountains to Pittsburg, in the mail-coach, 
 with my dog and gun, and calling on my wi*'3's relations, and 
 one of my old partners, JVIr. Thomas Pears, I proceeded down 
 the Ohio in a steamboat to Louisville. On entering the 
 counting-house of my relative, Mi\ G. W. Bakewell, I saw my 
 son Victor at a desk, but perhaps would not have recognized 
 him had lie not known me at once. And the pleasure I 
 experienced on pressing him to my breast was increased when I 
 discovered how much my dear boy had improved, as I had not 
 seen him for five years. My son Jolvn Woodhouse I also found 
 at T\Ir. Berthond's, and he had also grown and improved. After 
 spending a few days at I/ouisville, I took passage on anotlier 
 steamer going down the Mississippi, and in a few days landed 
 at Bayou Sara, and was soon at the house of Mr. Johnson, and 
 came suddenly on my dear wife : we were both overcome with 
 emotion, whieli found relief in tears." 
 
 He remained three months with his wife, but was still actively 
 
 ■m 
 
 
 I 
 
'., 
 
 170 
 
 LIFK OP AUDUnON. 
 
 I iM. 
 
 ^•il((;jl: 
 
 employed. ][o hniitod the woods for birds and animals, and 
 brought thorn homo alive or freshly killed, to draw from. Tiiere 
 are several exquisite nuHnished deer-heads, in his great portfolio 
 of unfinished drawings, which were begun at that time. ]Io 
 drew also, at this time, the picture of the " IJIack Vultiuo 
 Attacking the Herd of Deer," several largo hawks, and sonie 
 beautiful squirrels. Having added considerably to his collection, 
 ho began again to think of returning to England, to increase tlio 
 drawings already in the process of publication there. 
 
 " Our plans," he writes, addressing his sons, " were soon 
 aiTangcd. Your mother collected the moneys duo her, and 
 on the first of January, eighteen hundred and thirty we started 
 for New Orleans, taking with us the only three servants yet 
 belonging to us, namely, Cecilia, and her two sons, Iteuhcii 
 and licwis. We stayed a few days at our friend i\Ir. Brand's, 
 with whom wo left our servants, and on the seventh of January 
 took passage in the splendid steamer Philadeli)hia for Louis- 
 ville, paying sixty dollars fare. Wo were fourteen days g('ttinj>; 
 to Louisville, having had some trouble with tlio engine. I 
 passed my time there at 3Ir. Ijcrthond's and your micle 
 W. liakewell's, and amused myself hunting and stulling birds 
 until the seventh of ]\[arch, when we took a steamer for 
 Cincii.'.iti, and thence to Wheeling, and so on to Washington 
 in the mail-coach. (Congress was in session, and I exhibited 
 my drawings to the House of liepresentatives, and received 
 their subscription as a body. I saw the President, Andrew- 
 Jackson, who received me with gi-eat kindness, as he did youv 
 motlier also afterwards. I became acquainted with the Hon. 
 Edward Everett, Haron Krudcner, and other distinguislud 
 persons, and we left for Baltimore. There my drawings were 
 exhibited, and I obtained three subscribers, and left lor Phila- 
 delphia, where we renuiined one week. I saw my friends 
 Harlan, Mr. Murtrie, and Sully, and went to New York, from 
 whence we sailed in the packet-ship I'acific, Captain li. Croker, 
 for England. 
 
 "After a passage of twenty- live days, on which notliiiig 
 happened worthy of record, we had crossed the Atlantic and 
 arrivc'd safely in Liverpool. 
 
 " Hi England everything had gone well, and although my 
 
11(1 animals, and 
 uw from. Tlioio 
 is great portfolio 
 that time. ]le 
 'Black Vulture 
 lawka, and sonio 
 to his collection, 
 I, to increase tlu! 
 luu-e. 
 
 ms, " were aeon 
 
 's tluo her, and 
 
 thirty we started 
 
 •ee servants yet 
 
 ro Hons, licuhcu 
 
 end JMr. Brand's, 
 
 ^enth of January 
 
 el[d>ia for Lonis- 
 
 een days getting 
 
 tlie engine. I 
 
 and your uncle 
 
 id stulling birds 
 
 a steamer for 
 
 to Washington 
 
 and I exhibited 
 
 IS, and received 
 
 sident, Andrew 
 
 as he did your 
 
 with the Hou. 
 
 ■ distinguislicd 
 
 y di'awings were 
 
 d left for I'hila- 
 
 aw my friends 
 
 ew York, from 
 
 tain Iv. Croker, 
 
 which nothing 
 le Atlantic and 
 
 d although luy 
 
 AliniVAI, IN KDINIUTUGH. 
 
 171 
 
 list of subscribers had not increased, it had not much diminished. 
 During my absence I had been elected a fellow of the Koyal 
 Society of London, for which I believe I am indebted to Jjord 
 Staidey and J. S. Children, Esq., of the British ^Fuseum, and ou 
 the sixth of May I took my seat in the great hall, and ]iaid my 
 entrance feo of fifty pounds, though I felt myself that I luid not 
 th(^ qualifications to entitle mo to such an honour." 
 
 Soon after his arrival in England, ho found that subscribers 
 did not pay up as regularly as he expected, and money being 
 needed to push forward the engraving of the" Birds of America," 
 he again resorted to his pencil and brush, and painted birds and 
 quadrniieds, for all of which he found ready sale at satisfactory 
 prices. IJesides this he was occupied in filling up the ground- 
 work of many of his drawings, and introducing plants and trees 
 which had at first been given oidy in outline. His stay at 
 London however was not long. JMrs. Audubon having joined 
 him there after a few weeks, not liking a residence in the city, 
 travelled with him on liis journeys to obtain new subscribers. 
 
 " We visited Birmingham, jNIanchester, Leeds, York, Hull, 
 Sciuborough, Whitby, Newcastle, and received several sub- 
 scriptions at tho latter place ; and my former friends, Jlr. 
 Adamson and the Kev. Mr. Turner, were quite kind to us, as 
 also was the family of the Earl of Bavensworth. On our way 
 to Ediid)urg]i wo stopped a few days and were hospitably enter- 
 tained at Pursel House, by Mr. Selby. 
 
 " Ot'foher 13, 1830. We reached Edinburgh safely, and took 
 lodgings at my old boarding-house, with Mrs. Dickie, where we 
 were made very comfortable." 
 
 At this period Audubon began to prepare his " Ornithological 
 Biography of tho lairds of America," a work containing nearly 
 three thousand ])ages, and published by Mr. Black of Edinburgh. 
 
 "I applied to ^\v. James Wilson, to ask if he knew of any 
 person nho would undertake to correct my ungrammatical 
 manuscripts, and to assist me in arranging the more scientific 
 p.;irt I if the 'Biography of the Birds.' He gave me a card 
 with liie address of Mr. W. McGillivray, spoke Avell of liim 
 and of his talents, and away to ]\Ir. McGillivray I went. Ho 
 had long known of nie as a naturalist. I made known my 
 business, and a bargain was soon struck. He agreed to assist 
 
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 172 
 
 LIFE OF AUDITHON. 
 
 me, and correct ray miinnacripta for two fj^iiineas per shoot of 
 sixteen pages, and I that day hegati to write the first vohimo. 
 
 " A tew days after I l"'gan writing on tlio IJiography, it was 
 known in Edinburgh tliat I had arrived, and rrofciasors Jameson, 
 Oraliam, and others whom I had known, called on me ; and I 
 found at the ' fourteenth hour,' tiiat no leas than three oditiona 
 of ' Wilson's Ornithology * were about to be published, one by 
 Jameson, ono by Sir W. Jardine, and another by a Mr. Brown. 
 Most persons would probably have been discouraged by this 
 information, but it <mly had a good effect on mo, because since 
 1 have been in England 1 have studied the character of English- 
 men as carefully as I studied the birds in America. And 1 
 know full well, that in England novelty is always in demand, 
 and that if a thing is well knctwn it will not receive much 
 support. Wilson has had his day, thought 1 to myself, and now 
 is my time. I will write, and I will hope to be read ; and not 
 only so, but I will push my publication with such unremitting 
 vigour, that my book shall come before the public before 
 Wilson's can be got out. 
 
 " Writing now became the order of the day. I sat at it as 
 soon as I awoke in the niorning, and continued the whole long 
 day, and so full was my mind of birds and their habits, that in 
 my sleep T continually dreamed of birds. I found Sir. SlcCuili vray 
 equally industrioiis, for although he did not rise so early in tlie 
 morning as I did, he wrote much later at night (this I am told 
 is a characteristic of all great writers) ; and so the manuscripts 
 went on increasing in bidk, like the rising of a stream after 
 abundant rains, and before three months had passed th(^ first 
 volume was finished. Meanwhile your mother copied it all to 
 send to America, to secure the copyright there. 
 
 *' I made an arrangement with Mr. Patrick Neill, the printer, 
 who undertook the work, for I was from necessity my own 
 publisher. I offered this famous book to two booksellers, neitlicr 
 of whom would give mo a shilling for it, and it was fortunate 
 that they would not ; and most happy is the man who can, as I 
 did, keep himself independent of that class of men called tlio 
 * gentlemen of the trade.' Poor Wilson, how happy he would 
 have been, if he hud had it in his jiower to bear the expenses of 
 his own beautiful work ! 
 
as ppr sheet of 
 ! lirrft volume, 
 io^rapliy, it was 
 feasors Jameson, 
 on mo ; and I 
 in thrco editions 
 iblislicd, one by 
 jy a Mr. Brown, 
 mraged by lliis 
 le, because since 
 Lcter of Englisli- 
 merica. And 1 
 ays in demand, 
 t receive mncli 
 myself, and now 
 3 read ; and not 
 ich unremitting 
 ) public before 
 
 I sat at it as 
 I tlie whole long 
 r habits, tliat in 
 Mr. ]\[cGillivray 
 
 so early in the 
 (this I am told 
 bo manuscripts 
 
 a stream after 
 )assed the first 
 opied it all to 
 
 ill, the printer, 
 essity my own 
 fsellers, neitlicr 
 t was fortunate 
 1 who can, as I 
 nen calletl tlio 
 ippy he would 
 the expenses of 
 
 IfKVIKVVa OF HIH HOOK. 
 
 178 
 
 "March ]*i, 18^1. My book is now on the ovo of being 
 presented to the world. The printing: will be completed in a few 
 days, and I have sent copies of th(^ sheets to Dr. Harlan and 
 !\lr. McMurtrie, at I'hilad»'l[)hia, and also one hundred pounds 
 sterling to IMessrs. T. Walker and Sons, to be paid to Dr. 
 narlan to seeuni the copyright, and have the book published 
 there. 
 
 "March 20, 18;{1. Jlado an agreement with :\rr. J. J]. Kidd, 
 a young ^)ainter whom 1 have known for the last four yfuirs, to 
 copy some of my drawings in oil, and to put backgrounds to 
 them, so as to makt; them ajipear like pictures. It was our 
 intention to send them to the exhibition for sale, and to divide 
 tlie amount between us. He painted eight, and then I pro- 
 posed, if he would paint the one hundred engravings which 
 comprise my first volume of the ' Birds of America,' I would 
 pay hini one hundred pounds. 
 
 *' April 15. We left Ivlinburgh this day, and proceeded towards 
 London by the way of Newcastle, York, Leeds, ]\Ianchester, and 
 Liverpool. At the latter place wv spent a few days, and. 
 travelled on that extraordinary road called the railway, at the 
 rate of twenty-four miles an liour. On arriving at London I 
 found it urgent for me to visit Paris, to collect monies due me 
 by my agent (Pitois) there. 
 
 "Several reviews of my work have appeared; one in 'Black- 
 wood's Magazine ' is particularly favouralihi. The editor, John 
 Wilson of Edinburgh, is a clever good fellow, and I wrotti to 
 thank him. Dr. I'uke, an Irishman of lively manners, brought 
 the edit( irs of the ' Atlas ' to see my Birds, and they have praised 
 also. We have received letters jroi>i America of a cheering 
 kind, and which raised my dull npirits, but in spite of all this 
 I feel dull, rough in temper, and ^ong for nothing so much as 
 my dear woods. I have balanced my accounts with the ' Birds of 
 America,' and the whole business is really wonderful; forty 
 thousand dollars have passed through my hands for the com- 
 pletion of the first volume. Who W(juld believe that a lonely 
 indivic\ual, who landed in England without a friend in the whole 
 country, and with only sufficient pecuniary means to travel 
 through it as a visitor, could have accomplished such a task as 
 this publication ? Who would l)elieve that once in London 
 
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 174 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 
 Audubon had only one sovereign left in liis pocket, and did not 
 know of a single individual to whom he could apply to borrow 
 another, when he was on the verge of failure in the very 
 beginning of his undertaking ; and above all, who would believe 
 that he extricated himself from all his difficulties, not by borrow- 
 ing money, but by rising at four o'clock in the morning, work- 
 ing hard all day, and disposing of his works at a price which a 
 common labourer would have thought little more than sufficient 
 remuneration for his work ? To give you an idea of my actual 
 difficulties during the publication of my first volume, it will be 
 sufficient to say, that in the four years required to bring that 
 volume before the world, no less than fifty of my subscribers, 
 re resenting the sum of fifty-six thousand dollars, abandoned 
 me ! And whenever a few witlidrew I was forced to leave 
 London, and go to the provinces to obtain others to supply their 
 places, in order to enable me to raise the money to meet the 
 expenses of engraving, colouring, paper, printing, &c. ; and that 
 with all my constant exertions, fatigues, and vexations, I find 
 myself now having but one hundred and thirty standing names 
 on my list. 
 
 " England is most wealthy, and among her swarms of inhabi- 
 tants there are many wliom I personally know, and to whom, if 
 I were to open my heart, there would be a readiness to help me 
 for the sake of science ; but my heart revolts from asking such 
 a favour, and I will continue to trust in that Providence which 
 has helped me thus far." 
 
 The sixth volume of the journal abruptly ends with the above 
 paragraph. But intimations are given in the last chapter of 
 Audubon's intention to return to America as soon as possible. 
 He knew of regions which he had not explored, where he felt 
 confident he could make large additions of new birds to his 
 collection ; and anxious to enrich his store, after making the 
 same careful preparations as before to have his work go on 
 during his absence, he sailed once more for his native land. 
 
ket, and did not 
 apply to borrow 
 ire in the very 
 10 would believe 
 }S, not by borrow- 
 5 morning, work- 
 ; a price which a 
 re than sufficient 
 lea of ray actual 
 olume, it will be 
 red to bring that 
 
 my subscribers, 
 »llars, abandoned 
 
 forced to leave 
 •s to supply their 
 mey to meet the 
 ig, &c. ; and that 
 vexations, I find 
 f standing names 
 
 warms of inhabi- 
 and to whom, if 
 iness to help me 
 rom asking such 
 rovidence which 
 
 s with the above 
 last chapter of 
 soon as possible, 
 d, where he felt 
 lew birds to his 
 ter making the 
 his work go on 
 native land. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 Retuun to America — First Episode in East Fi,orida. 
 
 On September 3, 1831, Audubon landed in New York. After 
 spending a few days with relatives and friends he went to Boston, 
 and was hospitably received by his friends. There he remained 
 but a short time, having resolved to spend the winter in East 
 Florida. 
 
 All the most interesting incidents of what he called a rather 
 unprofitable expedition were woven by Audubon into the striking 
 episodes given in this and subsequent chapters. 
 
 " Soon after landing at St. Augustine, in East Florida, I formed 
 an acquaintance with Dr. Simmons, I3r. Pocher, Judge Smith, 
 the Misses Johnson, and many other individuals, my intercourse 
 with whom was as agreeable as it was beneficial to me. While 
 in this part of the peninsula I followed my usual avocations, 
 although with little success, it being then winter. I had letters 
 from the secretaries of the navy and treasury of the United 
 States, to the commanding officers of vessels of war in the 
 revenue service, directing them to afford me any assistance in 
 their power, and the schooner Shark having come to St. Augus- 
 tine, on her way to the St. John's river, I presented my creden- 
 tials to her commander, Lieutenant Piercy, who readily, and 
 with politeness, received me and my assistants on board. We 
 soon after set s^ail, with a fair breeze. 
 
 " The strict attention to duty on board even this small vessel of 
 war aiforded matter of surprise to me. Everything went on with 
 
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 176 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 the regularity of a chronometer : orders were given, answered to, 
 and accomplished, before they ceased to vibrate on the ear. The 
 neatness of the crew equalled the cleanlines'} of the white planks 
 of the deck ; the sails were in perfect condition, and built as the 
 Shark was for swift sailing, on she went bowling from wave to 
 wave. I thought that, while thus sailing, no feeling but that of 
 pleasure could exist in our breasts. Alas ! how fleeting are our 
 enjoyments. When we were almost at the entrance of the river the 
 wind changed, the sky became clouded, and before many minutes 
 had elapsed the little bark was lying to, * like a duck,' as her 
 commander expressed himself It blew a hurricane : let it blow, 
 reader. At the break of day we were again at anchor within the 
 bar of St, Augustine. Our next attempt was successful. Not 
 many hours after we had crossed the bar we perceived the star- 
 like glimmer of the light in the great lantern at the entrance 
 into the St. John's river. This was before daylight ; and as the 
 crossing of the sand-banks or bars which occur at the mouths 
 of all the streams of this peninsula is difficult, and can be accom- 
 plished only when the tide is up, one of the guns was fired as a 
 signal for the government pilot. The good man it seemed was 
 unwilling to leave his couch, but a second gun brought him in 
 his canoe alongside. The depth of the channel was barely 
 sufficient. My eyes, however, were not directed towards the 
 waters, but on high, where flew some thousands of * snowy 
 pelicans,' which had fled affrighted from their resting grounds. 
 How beautifully they performed their broad gyrations, and how 
 matchless, after a while, was the marshalling of their files as they 
 flew past us I 
 
 *• On the tide we proceeded apace. Myriads of cormorants 
 covered the face of the waters, and over it the fish-crows 
 innumerable were already arriving from their distant roosts. 
 We landed at one place to search for the birds whose charm- 
 ing melodies had engaged our attention and here and there 
 we shot some young eagles, to add to our store of fresh pro- 
 vision. The river did not seam to me equal in beauty to the 
 fair Ohio; the shores were in many places low and swampy, 
 to the gi'eat delight of the numberless herons that moved 
 along in gracefulness, and the grim alligators that swam ii) 
 sluggish sullenness. In going up a bayou we cauglit a grea 
 
 
 tiiiiiiiiiiifii! 
 
EXPLORING THE WOODS. 
 
 177 
 
 ven, answered to, 
 on the ear. The 
 the white planks 
 , and built as the 
 ing from wave to 
 3eling but that of 
 kv fleeing are our 
 Lce of the river the 
 3re many minutes 
 9 a duck,' as her 
 icane : let it blow, 
 anchor within the 
 i successful. Not 
 )erceived the star- 
 n at the entrance 
 flight ; and as the 
 ur at the mouths 
 and can be accom- 
 ;uns was fired as a 
 lan it seemed was 
 n brought him in 
 lannel was barely 
 
 ;cted towards the 
 iisands of * snowy 
 
 ir resting grounds. 
 
 ;yrations, and how 
 
 their files as they I 
 
 Lds of cormorants 1 
 lit the fish-crows I 
 kir distant roosts, 
 Irds whose charm- 
 Id here and there 
 tore of fresh pro- 1 
 ll in beauty to the , 
 llow and swampy, 
 Irons that moved 
 Irs that swam in 
 kve caught a great 
 
 number of the young of the latter, for the purpose of making 
 experiments upon them. After sailing a considerable way, 
 during which our commander and oflBcers took the soundings, as 
 well as the angles and bearings of every nook and crook of the 
 sinuous stream, we anchored one evening at a distance of fully 
 one hundred miles from the mouth of the river. The weather, 
 although it was the 12th of February, was quite warm, the 
 thernjometer on board standing at 75°, and on shore at 90°. 
 The fog was so thick that neither of the shores could be seen, 
 and yet the river was not a mile in breadth. The 'blind 
 mosquitoes ' covered every object, even in the cabin, and so won- 
 derfully abundant were these tormentors, that they more than 
 once extinguished the candles whilst I was writing my journal, 
 which I closed in despair, crushing between the leaves more than 
 a hundred of the little wretclies. Bad as they are, however, 
 these blind mosquitoes do not bite. As if purposely to render 
 our situation doubly imcomfortable, there was an establishment 
 for jerking beef on the nearer shore to the windward of our 
 vessel, from which the breeze came laden with no sweet odours. 
 In the morning when I arose the country was still covered with 
 thick fogs, so that although I could plainly hear the notes of 
 the birds on shore, not an objt Jt could I see beyond the bowsprit, 
 and the air was as close and sultry as on the previous evening. 
 
 "Guided by the scent of 'jerker's works,' we went on shore, 
 where we found the vegetation already far advanced. The 
 blossoms of the jessamine, ever pleasing, lay steeped in dew ; 
 the humming-bee was collecting her winter store from the 
 snowy fliowers of the native orange ; and the little warblers 
 frisked about the twigs of the smilax. Now, amid the tall pines 
 of the forest, the sun's rays began to force tlieir way, and as tlie 
 dense mists dissolved in the atmosphere the bright luminary 
 shone forth. We explored the woods around, guided by some 
 friendly * live oakers,' who had pitched their camp in the 
 vicinity. After a while the Sliark again displayed her sails, 
 and as she silently glided along, we espied a Seminole Indian 
 approaching us in his canoe. The poor dejected son of the 
 woods, endowed with talents of the highest order, altliough 
 rarely acknowledged by the proud usurpers of his native soil, 
 has spent the night in fishing, and the morning in procuring 
 
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 178 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 the superb fentbered game of the swampy tbickets, and with 
 both he comes to offer them for our acceptance. Alas I thou 
 fallen one, descendant of an ancient line of fi(je-born hunters, 
 would that I could restore to thee thy Ijirthright, thy natural 
 independence, the generous feelings that were once fostered in 
 thy brave bosom ! But the irrevocable deed is done, and I can 
 merely admire the perfect symmetry of his frame, as he dex- 
 terously throws on our deck the trout and turkeys which he has 
 captured. He receives a recompense, and without a smile or 
 bow, or acknowledgment of any kind, cff he starts with the 
 speed of an arrow from his own bow. 
 
 "Alligators were extremely abundant, and the heads of the 
 fishes which they had snapped off lay floating around on the dark 
 waters. A rifle bullet was now and then sent through the eye 
 of one of the largest, which, with a tremendous splash of its tail, 
 expired. One morning we saw a monstrous fellow lying on the 
 shore. I M'aa desirous of obtaining him, to make an accurate 
 drawing of hi^ head, and, accompanied by ray assistant and two 
 of the sailors, proceeded cautiously towards him. When within 
 a few yards, one of us fired, and sent through liis side an ounce 
 ball, which tore open a hole large enough to receive a man's hand. 
 He slowly raised his head, bent himself upwards, opened his huge 
 jaws, swung his tail to and fro, rose on his legs, blew in a fright- 
 ful manner, and fell to the earth. My assistant leaped on sliore, 
 and, contrai-y to my injunctions, caught hold of the animal's 
 tail, when the alligator, awakening from its trance, with a last 
 effort crawled slowly towards the water, and plunged heavily 
 into it. Had he thought of once flourishing his tremendous 
 weapon, there might have been an end of his assailant's life; 
 but he fortunately went in peace to his grave, where we left 
 him, as the water was too deep. The same morning, another 
 of equal size was observed swimming directly for the bows of 
 our vessel, attracted by the gentle rippling of the water there. 
 One of the officers who had watched him fired, and scattered 
 his brains througli the air, when he tumbled and rolled at a 
 fearful rate, blowing all the while most furiously. The river 
 was bloody for yards around, but although the monster passed 
 close by the vessel, we could not secure him, and after a while 
 he sank to the bottom. 
 
 iiiiiliK;)^ 
 
JOURNEY THTIOUGII A PINE BATIRKN. 
 
 170 
 
 ickets, and with 
 lice. Alas 1 thou 
 iHie-born hunters, 
 ■ight, thy natural 
 once fosterevl in 
 I done, and I can 
 Tame, as he dex- 
 eys which he has 
 ithout a smile or 
 ) starts with the 
 
 the heads of the 
 •ound on the dark 
 t through the eye 
 3 splash of its tail, 
 jUow lying on the 
 make an accurate 
 assistant and two 
 m. When within 
 his side an ounce 
 eive a man's hand 
 s, opened his huge 
 I, blew in a fright- 
 it leaped on shore, 
 I of the animal's 
 •ance, with a last 
 plunged heavily 
 his tremendous 
 |is assailant's life ; 
 ,ve, where we left 
 Imorning, another 
 y for the bows of 
 the water there, 
 •ed, and scattered 
 and rolled at a 
 lusly. The river 
 e monster passed 
 and after a while 
 
 " Early one morning T hired a boat and two men, with n view 
 of returning to St. Augustine by a short cut. Our baggage 
 being placed on board, I bade adieu to the officers and crew, and 
 off we started. About four in the afternoon we arrived at the 
 short cut, forty miles distant from our point of departure, and 
 where we had expected to procure a waggon, but were dis- 
 appointed ; so we laid our things on the bank, and leaving one 
 of my assistants to look after them, I set out, accompanied by 
 the other and my Newfoundland dog. We had eighteen miles 
 to go, and as the sun was only two hours high, we struck off at 
 a good rate. Presently we entered a pine barren. The country 
 was as level as a floor ; our path, although narrow, was well 
 beaten, having been used by the Seminole Indians for ages ; and 
 the weather was calm, and now and then a rivulet occurred, from 
 which we quenched our thirst, while the magnolias and other 
 flowering plants on its banks relieved the dull uniformity of the 
 woods. When the path separated into two branches, both seem- 
 ingly leading the same way, I would follow one, while ray com- 
 panion took the other, and unless we met again in a short time, 
 one of us would go across the intervening forest. The sun went 
 down behind a cloud, and the south-east breeze that sprung up 
 at this moment sounded dolefully among the tall pines. Along 
 the eastern horizon lay a bed of black vapour, which gradually 
 rose, and soon covered the heavens. The air felt hot and 
 oppressive, and we knew that a tempest was approaching. Plato 
 was now our guide, the white spots on his skin being the only 
 objects that we could discern amid the darkness ; and as if 
 aware of his utility in this respect, he kept a short way before 
 us on the trail. Had we imagined ourselves more than a few 
 miles from the town, we would have made a camp, and remained 
 under its shelter for the night ; but conceiving that the distance 
 could not be great, we resolved to trudge along. Large drops 
 bocan to fall from the murky mass overhead ; thick impene- 
 trable darkness surrounded us, and, to my dismay, the dog 
 refused to proceed. Groping with my hands on the /^ound. I 
 discovered that several trails branched out at the spot where 
 he lay down, and when I had selected one he went on. Vivid 
 flashes of lightning streamed across the heavens, the wind 
 increased to a gale, and the rain poured down upon us like a 
 
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 180 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 torrent. The water soon rose on the level ground, so as almost 
 to cover our feet, and we slowly advanced, fronting the tempest. 
 Here and there a tall pine on fire presented a magnificent 
 spectacle, illumining the trees around it, and surrounded with 
 a halo of dim light, abraptly bordered with the deep black of 
 the night. At one time we passed through a tangled thicket of 
 low trees, at another crossed a stream flushed by the heavy 
 rains, and again proceeded over the open barrens. How long we 
 thus, half lost, groped our way, is more than I can tell you, but 
 at length the tempest passed over, and suddenly the clear sky 
 became spangled with stars. Soon after we smelt the salt 
 marshes, and walking directly towards them — like pointers 
 advancing on a covey of partridges — we at last, to our great 
 joy, descried the light of the beacon near St. Augustine. My 
 dog began to run briskly around, and having met with ground 
 on which he had hunted before, and taking a direct course, led 
 us to the great causeway that crosses the marshes at the back 
 of the town, ^e refreshed ourselves with the produce of the 
 first orange-tree that we met with, and in half an hour more 
 arrived at our hotel. Drenched with rain, steaming with per- 
 spiration, and covered to the knees with mud, you may imagine 
 what figures we cut in the eyes of the good people whom we 
 found snugly enjoying themselves in the sitting-room. Next 
 morning Major Gates, who had received me with much kind- 
 ness, sent a waggon with mules and two trusty soldiers for my 
 companion and the luggage." 
 
 '.' :lli 
 
I I 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 Second Florida Episode: The Live Oarers. 
 
 " The greater part of the forests of East Florida principally 
 consists of what in that country are called * pine barrens.' 
 In these districts the woods are rather thin, and the only trees 
 that are seen in them are tall pines, of rather indifferent quality, 
 beneath which is a growth of rank grass, here and there mixed 
 with low bushes and sword palmettoes. The soil is of a sandy 
 nature, mostly flat, and consequently either covered with water 
 during the rainy season, or parched in the summer and autumn, 
 although you meet at times with ponds of stagnant water, where 
 the cattle — which are abundant — allay their thirst, and around 
 which resort the various kinds of game found in these wilds. 
 The traveller who has pursued his course for many miles over 
 the barrens, is suddenly delighted to see in the distance the 
 appearance of a dark ' hummock ' of live oaks and other trees, 
 seeming as if they had been planted in the wilderness. As he 
 approaches, the air feels cooler and more salubrious, the song 
 of numerous birds delights his ear, the herbage assumes a more 
 luxuriant appearance, the flowers become larger and brighter, 
 and a grateful fragrance is diffused around. These objects 
 contribute to refresh his mind, as much as the sight ot the 
 waters of some clear spring, gliding among the undergrowth, 
 seems already to allay his thirst Overhead festoons of innu- 
 merable vines, jessamines, and bignonias, luik each tree with 
 those around it, their slender stems being interlaced as if in 
 
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182 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 ¥''$ 
 
 mutual affection. No sooner in tlio sliadc of these beautiful 
 woods has the traveller finished his mid-day repast, than ho 
 perceives small parties of men, lightly accoutred, and each 
 bearing an axe, approaching towards his resting-place. Thoy 
 exchange the usual civilities, and immediately commence their 
 labours, for they too have just finished their meal. I think I 
 see them proceeding to their work. Here two have stationed 
 themselves on the opposite sides of the trunk of a noble and 
 venerable live oak. Their keen-edged and well-tempered axes 
 seem to make no imin-ession on it, so small are the chips that 
 drop at' each blow around the mossy and wide-si)rcading roots. 
 There one is ascending the stem of another, of which, in its full, 
 the arms have stuck among the tangled tops of the neighbour- 
 ing trees. See how cautiously he proceeds, bare-footed, and 
 with a handkerchief round his head ; now he has climbed to 
 the height of about forty feet from the ground ; he stops, and 
 squaring himself with the trunk on wliich ho so boldly stands, 
 he wields with sinewy arms his trusty blade, the repeated blows 
 of which — although the tree be us tough as it is largo — will 
 soon sever it in two. lie has changed sides, and his back ia 
 turned to you. The trunk now remains connected by only a 
 ti)in strip of wood. Ho places his feet on the part which is 
 lodged, and shakes it with all his might. Now swings the 
 huge log under his leaps, now it suddenly gives way, and as it 
 strikes upon the ground, its echoes are repeated through the 
 hummock, and every wild turkey within hearing utters his 
 gobble of recognition. The woodcutter, however, remains 
 ' collected and composed,' but the next moment he throws his 
 axe to the ground, and assisted by the nearest grape-vine, slides 
 down, and reaches the earth in an instant. Several men ap- 
 proach and examine the prostrate trunk. They cut at both 
 extremities, and sound the whole of the bark, to enable them 
 to judge if the tree has been attacked by white rot. If such 
 has unfortimately been the case, there, for a century or more, 
 this huge log will remain, till it gradually crumbles ; but if 
 not, and if it is free of injury or ' wind-shakes,' while there is 
 no appearance of the sap having already ascended, and its pores 
 are altogether sound, they proceed to take its measurement. 
 Its sliape ascertained, and the timber that is fit for use laid out 
 
 WM 
 
"LIVE OAKS." 
 
 188 
 
 thc'80 beautiful 
 reptuit, tliuu ho 
 tred, and each 
 g-phveo. They 
 conuneuco their 
 loal. I think I 
 have stationed 
 of a noble and 
 1-tenipered axes 
 ) tho chips that 
 ■spreading roots. 
 vhich, in its full, 
 [ the neighbour- 
 baro-footed, and 
 I has climbed to 
 [ ; he stops, and 
 JO boldly stands, 
 ) repeated blows 
 t is large — will 
 md his back is 
 lected by only a 
 e part which is 
 )io\v swings tho 
 way, and as it 
 ted through tho 
 ring utters his 
 iwever, remains 
 it he throws liis 
 rape-vine, slides 
 veral men ap- 
 ley cut at both 
 to enable them 
 ,e rot. If such 
 entury or more, 
 umbles: but if 
 while there is 
 id, and its pores 
 8 measurement, 
 or use laid out 
 
 oy tho aid of models, which — like fragments of tho skeleton of 
 (I ship — show tho forms and sizes required, the • hewers * com- 
 mence their labouiti. 
 
 " Thus, reader, i)erhap8 every known hummock in the Floridas 
 is aiumally attacked; and so often does it happen that tho 
 white rot, or some other disease, has deteriorated tho quality of 
 the timber, that the woods may bo seen strewn with trunks that 
 Imvo been found worthless, so that every year these valuable 
 oaks are becoming scarcer. The destruction of tho young 
 trees of this species, caused by tho fall of tho great trunks, is 
 of course immense ; and as there are no artificial [)lantation3 of 
 these trees in our country jefore long a good-sized live oak 
 will be so valuable, that its owner will exact un enormous price 
 for it, even while it yet stands in tho wood. In my opinion, 
 formed on personal observation, live-oak hummocks are n, ', 
 quite as plentiful as they aro represented to be ; and of this I 
 will give you one illustration. 
 
 "On tho 25th of February, 1832, I happened to bo far up St. 
 John's Iliver, East Florida, in company of a person employed 
 by our government in protecting tho 'live oaks' of that 
 section of the country, and who received a good salary for his 
 trouble. While wo were i)roceeding along one of the banks of 
 that most singular river, my companion pointed out some largo 
 hummocks of dark-leaved trees on the opposite side, which he 
 said were entirely formed of live oaks. I thought diflTerently, 
 and as our controversy on the subject became a little warm, I 
 proposed that our men should row us to the place, where we 
 might examine the leaves and timber, and so decide the point. 
 We soon landed, but after inspecting the woods, not a single 
 tree of the species did we find, although there were thousands 
 of largo * swamp oaks.' My companion acknowledged his 
 mistake, and I continued to search for birds. 
 
 "One dark evening, as I was seated on the banks of the same 
 river, considering what arrangements I should make for the 
 night — as it began to rain in torrents — a man, who happened to 
 see me, came up and invited me to go to his cabin, which he 
 said was not far oflt'. I accepted this kind oli'er, and followed 
 hiu) to his humble ihvelling. There 1 found his wife, several 
 children, and a number of men, who, as my host tokl me, were, 
 
 M 
 
 ye 
 
 law 
 
 ( < 
 
 m 
 
IH4 
 
 LIFE OP AUDUHON. 
 
 'II 
 
 
 
 i,'i' 'I 
 
 like himself, 'live oakera.' Supper was placed on a lttr>i;o 
 table, and on being desired to join the party, I willingly hh- 
 sentod, doing my best to diminish the contents of the tin piiim 
 and dishes set before the company by the active and ugreeublo 
 housewife. We then talked of the country, its climate and 
 productions, until a late hour, when we laid ourselves down on 
 boar-skins, and roiKwed till daybreak. 
 
 " I longed to accompany these hardy woodcutters to the hum- 
 niook, where they were engaged in preparing live oak timber for 
 a man-of-war. Provided with axes and guns, we left the house 
 to the care of the wife and children, and proceeded for several 
 miles through a pine barren, such as I have attempted to 
 describe. One fine old turkey was shot, and when we arrived 
 at the shanty, put up near the hummock, we found another 
 party of woodcutters waiting our arrival before eating their 
 breakfast, already prepared by a negro man, to whom the 
 turkey was consigned, to be roasted for part of that day's dmner. 
 Our repast was an excellent one, and vied with a Kentucky 
 breakfast. Beef, fish, potatoes, and other vegetables, were 
 served up with coffee in tin cups, and plenty of biscuit. Every 
 man seemed hungry and happy, and the conversation assumed 
 the most humorous character. The sun now rose above the 
 trees, and all excepting the cook proceeded to the hummock, 
 on which I had been gazing with great deh'ght, as it promised 
 rare sport. My host, I found, was the chief of the party ; and 
 although he had an axe, he made no other use of it than for 
 stripping here and there pieces of bark from certain trees, which 
 he considered of doubtful soundness. He was not only well 
 versed in his profession, but generally intelligent, and from 
 him I received tho following account, which I noted at the time. 
 
 "The men employed in cutting the live oak, after having 
 discovered a good hummock, build shanties of small logs, to 
 retire to at night and feed in by day. Their provisions consist 
 of beef, pork, potatoes, biscuit, rice, flour, and fish, together with 
 excellent whiskey. They are mostly hale, strong, and active 
 men, from the eastern parts of the Union, and receive excellent 
 wages, according to their different abilities. Their labours are 
 only of a few months' duration. Such hummocks as are found 
 near navigable streams are first chosen, and when it is abso- 
 
(JUTl'INO THE " LIVE OAKS." 
 
 186 
 
 lutoly necoBsary, this timber is hauled flvo or nix miles to the 
 nearoHt wutor-courso, where, although it sinks, it can, with com- 
 pariitivo ease, be shipped to its destination. The best time for 
 cutting the * live oak ' is considered to be from the first of 
 Docoraber to the first of March, or while the sap is completely 
 down. When the sap is fiowing the tree is * bloom,' and more 
 iipt to bo ' shaken.' The white rot, which occurs so frequently 
 in the live oak, and is perceptible only by the best judges, 
 consists of roimd spots, about an inch and a half in diameter, 
 on the outside of the bark, through which, at that spot, a hard 
 stick may be driven several inches, and generally follows the 
 heart up or down the trunk of the tree. So deceiving are these 
 spots and trees to persons unacquainted with this defect, that 
 thousands of trees are cut and abandoned. The great number 
 of trees of this sort strewn in the woods would tend to make a 
 stranger believe that there is much more goo<l oak in the 
 country than there really is ; and perhaps, in reality, not more 
 than one fourth of the quantity usually reported is to bo pro- 
 cured. The * live oakers ' generally revisit their distant homes 
 in the middle and eastern states, where they spend the summer, 
 returning to the Floridas at the approach of winter. Some, 
 however, who have gone there with their families, remain for 
 years in succession, although they Buffer much from the climate, 
 by which their once good constitutions are often greatly im- 
 paired. This waa the case with the individual above mentioned, 
 from whom I subsequently received much friendly assistance in 
 my pursuits." 
 
■' fi> 
 
 lH(i 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 ( ■■.tH>'y*i' * 
 
 IK 
 
 r ■^'' -^iS' ill I 
 
 f'UwiH 
 
 '3i:-l;l 
 
 CHArrER XXXIII. 
 
 Third Florida Episode : Tiu'. Lost Onk. 
 
 " A ' I;IVE OAKEU ' employed on the St. John's IJiver, in East 
 Florida, left his cabin — situated on the banks of that stream — 
 and, with an axe on liis shoulder, proceeded towards the swamp, 
 in which he had several times before plied his trade of felling 
 and squaring the giant trees that afford the most valuable 
 timber for naval aroliiteeture and other purposes. At the 
 season which is the bc^t for this kind of labour, heavy fogs not 
 unfrequently cover the country, so as to render it diilicult for 
 one to see farther than thirty or forty yards in any direction, 
 The woods, too, present so little variety, that every tree seems 
 the mere counterpart of every other; and the grass, when it 
 has not been burnt, is so tall, that a man of ordinary stature 
 cannot see over it ; whence it is necessary ibr him to jjroceci! 
 with great caution, lest he should unwittingly deviate from "Llio 
 ill-defined trail which he follows. To increase tl-e dillicuity, 
 several trails often meet, in which case — unless the explorer '•! 
 perfe(!tly acquainted with the neighbourhood — it would be well 
 for him to lie down and wait until the fog should disperse. 
 The live oaker had been joggiug onwards for several hours, and 
 became aware that he must have travelled considerably niovo 
 than the distance between his cabin and the 'hummock' wliicli 
 he desired to reach. To his alarm, at the moment when the i'o^' 
 dispersed, he saw that the sun was at its meridian height, and Lo 
 could not recognize a single object around him. Young, healthy 
 
 und 
 
 iisua 
 
 Uc 
 
 foreii 
 
 head 
 
 arcni 
 
 extei 
 
 was 
 
 tlrcai 
 
 ghost 
 
 meet 
 
 "'1 
 
 perpl 
 
 I liaise 
 
 lirst t 
 
 seurcl 
 
 ).o go 
 
 This 1 
 
 with 
 
 form, 
 
 insect 
 
 wings 
 
 it had 
 
 to its 
 
 heron 
 
 to the 
 
 began 
 
 as it s 
 
 with h 
 
 light, I 
 
 vexed, 
 
 always 
 
 woods] 
 
 happie 
 
 feveris 
 
 the lei 
 
THE LOST ONR. 
 
 187 
 
 ' Onk. 
 
 lin's Iviver, in East 
 
 s of that streani— 
 
 towards tho swamp, 
 
 bis trade of felling 
 
 tho most valuable 
 
 purposes. At the 
 
 )nr, heavy fo<i;s not 
 
 [idor it diilicult for 
 
 s iu any direction. 
 
 it every tree seems 
 
 iie grass, when it 
 
 of ordinary stature 
 
 "or hiiu to i)roi'eoi! 
 
 deviate from the 
 
 use tl'o dillieuity, 
 
 ss the explorer )''^ 
 
 — it \\ould be well 
 
 f should disperse. 
 
 several hours, uiiil 
 
 considerably more 
 
 ' hummock ' whieli 
 
 ment when the I'oj,' 
 
 lian height, and be 
 
 Young, healthy, 
 
 and active, ho imagined that ho had walked with more than 
 usual speed, and had j)a8sed the place to wliich ho was bound, 
 lie accordingly turned his buck upon the sun, and pursued a dif- 
 ferent rou+^, guided by a small trail. Time passed, and the sun 
 headed his course ; he saw it gradually descend in tho west, but all 
 arcand him continued as if enveloped with mystery. The huge 
 gray trees spread their giant boughs over him, the i-ank grass 
 extended on all sides, not a living being crossed liis jiath ; all 
 was silent and still, and tho scene was like a dull and dreary 
 dream of tho land of oblivion, lie wandered like a forgotten 
 glicst that had passed into tiie land of spirits, without yet 
 meeting one of his kind with whom to hold converse. 
 
 "The condition of a man lost in the woods is one of tho most 
 perplexing that could be imagined by a jjorson who has not 
 hiiuself been in a like predicament. Every object he sees he at 
 lirst thinks he recognizes ; and while his whole mind is bent on 
 searching for more that may grailually lead to his extrication, 
 )/; goes on comu.»itting greater errors the farther ho proceeds. 
 This was the case with the live oaker. The sun was now seiting 
 with a fiery a82)ect, and by degrees it sunk in its full circular 
 form, as if giving warning of a sultry to-morrow. Myriads of 
 insects, delighted at its departure, now filled tho air on buzzing 
 wings. Each piping frog arose from the muddy pool in which 
 it had concealed itself, tho squirrel retired to its hole, the crow 
 to its roost, and, far above, tiie harsh croaking voice of the 
 heron announced that, full of anxiety, it was wending its way 
 to the miry interior of some distant swamp. Now the woods 
 began to resound to the shrill cries of the owl and the breeze, 
 as it swept among the columnar stems of the forest trees, laden 
 with heavy and chilling dew. Alas I no moon, with her silvery 
 light, shone on the dreary scene, and the lost one, wearied and 
 vexed, laid himself down on the damp grornid. Prayer i« 
 iilways consolatory to man in every difficulty or danger, and tho 
 woodsman fervently ])rayed to his Maker, wished his family a 
 happier night than it was his lot to exi)erience, and with a 
 feverish anxiety waited the return of day. You may imagine 
 tho length of that cold, dull, moonless night. With the dawn 
 of day came the usual fogs of those latitudes. The poor man 
 started on his feet, and with a sorrowful heart pursued a course 
 
 ^i 
 
 '"»! 
 
 1' 
 
 n 
 
 It- i 
 
I; 
 
 
 
 I W 
 
 i'; 'i 
 
 i'lll 
 
 188 
 
 LIFE OP AUDUBON. 
 
 which hj thought mr^ht lead him to some familiar object, 
 although, indeed, he .scarcely knew what he was doing. No 
 longer had he the trace of a track to guide him, and yet, as the 
 sun rose, he calculated the many hours of daylight he had 
 before him, and the farther he went, continued to walk the 
 faster. But vain were all his hopes : that day was spent in 
 fruitless endeavours to regain the path that led to his home, 
 and when night again approached, the terror that had been 
 gre lually spreading over his mind — together with the nervous 
 debility induced by fatigue, anxiety, and hunger — rend«^red him 
 almost frantic. He told me that at this moment he beat his 
 breast, tore his hair, and, had it not been for the piety with 
 which his parents had in early life imbued his mind, and which 
 had become habitual, would have cursed his exif tence. 
 
 " Famished as he now vvas, Le laid himself on the ground, and 
 fed on the weeds and grass that grew around him. That night 
 was spent in the greatest agony and terror. *I knew .ijy 
 situation,' he said to me. *I was fully aware that, unless 
 Almighty God came to my assistance, I must perish in those 
 uninhabited woods. I knew that I had walked more than fifty 
 miles, although I had not met with a brook from which. I 
 could quench my thirst, or even allay the burning heat of my 
 parched lips and bloodshot eyes. 
 
 " • I knew that if I coiild not meet with some strer.ii? I must 
 die, for my axe was my only weapon ; and althougli de'jr and 
 bears now and then started within a few yards or even feet of 
 me, not one of them could I kill ; and although I was in the 
 midst of abundance, not a moutiiful did I expect to procure, to 
 satisfy the cravings of my empty stomach. Sir, may Goi pre- 
 serve you from ever feeling as I did the whole of that day !' 
 For several days after no one can imagine the condition in 
 which he was, for when he related to me this painful adventun , 
 he assured me he had lost all recollection of what had happened. 
 * God,' he continued, ' must have taken pity on me, one day, 
 for as I ran wildly through those dreadful pine barrens I met 
 w:th a tortoise. I gazed upon it with delight and amazement, 
 ana although I knew that, were I to follow it undisturbetl, it 
 would lead me to some water, my hunger and thirst would not 
 allow me to refrain from satisfying both by uatiug its flesh and 
 
KILLING A RACCOON. 
 
 189 
 
 drinking its blood. With one stroke of my axe the beast was 
 cut in two ; in a few moments I despatched all but the shell. 
 Oh, sir, how much I thanked God, whose kindness had put the 
 tortoise in my way ! I felt greatly renewed. I sat down at the 
 foot of a pine, gazed on the heavens, thought of my poor wife 
 and children, and again and again thanked my God for my life, 
 for now I felt less distracted in mind, and more assured that 
 before long I must recover my way, and get back to my home.' 
 The lost one remained and passed the night at the foot of the 
 same trer under which his repast had been made. Eefreshed 
 by a sou id sleep, he started at dawn to resume his weary march. 
 The sun rose bright, and he followed the direction of his 
 shadows. Still the dreariness of the woods was the same, and 
 he was on the point of giving up in despair, when he observed 
 a raccoon lying squatted in the gi'ass. Eaising his axe, he drove 
 it with such violence through the helpless animal, that it 
 expired without a struggle. What he had done with the 
 turtle he now did with the raccoon, the greater part of which he 
 actually devoured at one meal. With more comfortable feel- 
 ings he then resumed his wanderings — his journey I cannot say 
 — for although in the possession of aL his faculties, and in broad 
 dayUght, he was worse oif than a lame man groping his way in 
 the dark out of a dungeon, of which he knew not where the 
 door stood. Days one after another passed — nay, w^eks in 
 succession. He fed now on cabbage trees, then on frogs and 
 snakes. All that fell in his way was welcome and savoury. 
 Yet he became daily more emaciated, and at length he coulu 
 scarcely crawl ; forty days had elapsed, by his own reckoning, 
 when he at last reached the banks of the river. His clothes in 
 tatters, his once bright axe dimmed with rust, his face begrimed 
 with beard, his hair matted, and his feeble frame little better 
 than a skeleton covered with parchment, there he laid himself 
 down to die. An:ii tho perturbed dreams of his fevered fancy, 
 he thought he heard the noise of oars far away on the silent 
 river. He listened, but the sounds died away on his ear. It 
 was indeed a drr^am, the last glimmer tf expiring hope, and 
 now the light of life was about to be quenched for ever. But 
 again the sound of oars awoke him from his lethargy. He 
 listened so eagerly that tho hum of a fly could not have escaped 
 
 ;|;;:i 
 
 m 
 
 ■Mi 
 
 
 
 '(U> 
 
li 'It. 
 
 
 ■I "111 
 
 lilliJll'Tliif 
 
 190 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 his ear. They were indeed the measured beats of oars ; and 
 now, joy to the forlorn soul ! the sound of human voices thrilled 
 to his heai-t, and awoke the tumultuous pulses of returning 
 hope. On his knees did the eye of God see that poor man, by 
 the broad, still stream, that glittered in the sunbeams, and 
 human eyes soon saw him too, for round that headland covered 
 with tangled brushwood boldly advances tlie little boat, pro- 
 pelled by its lusty rowers. The lost one raises his feeble ^ oicc 
 on high ; it was a loud shrill scream of joy and fear. The 
 rowers pause, and look around. Another, but feebler scream, 
 and they observe him. It comes — his heart flutters, his sight 
 is dimmed, his brain reels, he gasps for breath I It comes — it 
 has nm upon the beach, and the lost one is found. 
 
 " This is no tale of fiction, but the relation of an actual occnr- 
 rence, which might be embellished, no doubt, but which is better 
 in the plain garb of truth. The notes by which I recorded it 
 were written in the cabin of the once lost * live oaker,' about 
 four years after the painful incident occurred. His amiable wife 
 and loving children were present at the recital, and never shall 
 I forget the tears that flowed from them as they listened to it, 
 albeit it. had long been more familiar to them than a tale thrice 
 told. It only remains for me to say that the distance between 
 the cabin and the live oak hummock to which the woodsman was 
 bound scarcely exceeded eight miles, while the part of the river 
 at which he was found was thirty-eight miles from his house. 
 Calculating his daily wanderings at ten miles, we may believe 
 that they amounted in all to four hundred. He must there- 
 fore have rambled in a circuitous direction, which people gene- 
 rally do in such circumstances. Nothing but the great strength 
 of his constitution and the merciful aid of his Maker could have 
 supported him for so long a time." 
 
jats of oars ; and 
 an voices thrilled 
 ses of returning 
 hat poor man, by 
 Q sunbeams, and 
 headland covered 
 little boat, pro- 
 a his feeble ^ oico 
 f and fear. The 
 t feebler scream, 
 flutters, his sight 
 ;h 1 It comes — it 
 md. 
 
 f an actual oconr- 
 ut which is better 
 hich I recorded it 
 live oaker,' about 
 His amiable wife 
 , and never shall 
 hey listened to it, 
 than a tale thrice 
 distance between 
 the woodsman was 
 part of the river 
 from his house. 
 , we may believe 
 He must there- 
 ich people gene- 
 he great strength 
 laker could have 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 Fourth Florida Episode : Spring Garden. 
 
 "Having heard many wonderful accounts of a certain spring 
 near the sources of the St. John's River, in East Florida, I 
 resolved to visit it, in order to judge for myself. On the 
 6th of January, 1832, I left the plantation of my friend John 
 Bulow, accompanied by an amiable and accomplished Scotch 
 gentleman, an engineer employed by the planters of those 
 districts in erecting their sugai'-house establishments. We 
 were mounted on horses of the Indian breed, remarkable for 
 their activity and strength, and were provided with guns and 
 some provision. The weather was pleasant, but not so our way, 
 for no sooner had we .left the * King's Road,' which had been 
 cut by the Spanish government for a goodly distance, than we 
 entered a thicket of scrubby oaks, succeeded by a still denser 
 mass of low palmettoes, which extended about three miles, and 
 among the roots of which our nags had great difficulty in 
 making good their footing. 
 
 " After this we entered the pme barrens, so extensively dis- 
 tributed in this portion of Florida. The sand seemed to be all 
 sand, and nothing but sand, and the palmettoes at times so covered 
 the narrow Indian trail which we followed, that it required all the 
 instinct or sagacity of ourselves and our horses to keep it. It 
 seemed to Us as if we were approaching the end of the world. 
 The country was perfectly flat, and, so far as we could survey it, 
 presented the same wild and scraggy aspect. My companion, who 
 
 M 
 
 mi 
 Pi 
 
 
 # 
 
 m 
 
 
h .ih 
 
 192 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 '"I 
 
 ..H i ' .| I 
 
 had travelled there before, assured me that at particular seasons of 
 the J ear he had crossed the barrens wlien they were covered with 
 water fully knee-deep — when, according to his expression, they 
 ' looked most awful ;' and I readily believed him, as we now and then 
 passed through muddy pools which reached the saddle-girths of 
 our horses. Here and there large tracts covered with tall grasses, 
 and resembling the prairies of the western wilds, opened to our 
 view. Wherever the country happened to be sunk a little 
 beneath the general level, it was covered with cypress-trees, 
 whose spreading arms were hung with a profusion of Spanish 
 moss. The soil in such cases consisted of black mud, and was 
 densely covered with bushes, chiefly of the magnolia family. 
 We crossed in succession the heads of three branches of Haw 
 Creek, of which the waters spread from a quarter to half a mile 
 in breadth, and through which we made our way with extreme 
 difficulty. I While in the middle of one, my companion told me 
 that once, when in the very spot where he then stood, his horse 
 chanced to place his fc/e-feet on the back of a large alligator, 
 which, not well pleased at being disturbed in his repose, sud- 
 denly raised his head, opened his monstrous jaws, and snapped 
 off a part of the lip of his affrighted pony. You may imagine 
 the terror of the poor beast, which, however, after a few plunges, 
 resumed its opurse, and succeeded in carrying its rider through 
 in safety. As a reward for this achievement it was ever after 
 honoured with the appellation of * Alligator.' 
 
 "We had now travelled about twenty miles, and the sun 
 having reached the zenith, we dismounted to partake of some 
 refreshment. From a muddy pool we contrived to obtain 
 enough of tolerably clear water to mix with the contents of a 
 . bottle, the like of which I would strongly recommend to every 
 traveller in these swampy regions. Our horses, too, found 
 something to grind among the herbage that surrounded the 
 little pool ; but as little time was to be lost, we quickly re- 
 mounted and resumed our disagreeable journey, during wliieh 
 we had at no time proceeded at a rate exceeding two miles and 
 a half in the hour. All at once, however, a wonderful change 
 took place ; the country became more elevated and undulating, 
 the timber was of a different nature, and consisted of red and 
 live oaks, magnolias, and several kinds of pine. Thousands of | 
 
ARRIVAL AT COLONEL BEES'. 
 
 193 
 
 'mole-hills,' or the habitations of an animal here called the 
 ' salamander,' and Goffer's hurrows, presented themselves to the 
 eye, and greatly annoyed our norses, which every now and then 
 i sank to the depth of a foot and stumbled, at the risk of break- 
 1 ing their legs, and what we considered fully as valuable — our 
 I necks. We now saw beautiful lakes cf the purest water, and 
 passed along a green space having a series of them on each side 
 of us. These sheets of water became larger and more numerous 
 the farther we advanced, some of them extending to a length of 
 several miles, and having a depth of from two to twenty feet of 
 clear water ; but their shores being destitute of vegetation we 
 observed no birds near them. Many tortoises, however, were 
 seen basking in the sun, and all as we approached plunged into 
 the water. Not a trace of man did we see during our journey, 
 scarcely a bird, and not a single quadruped, not even a rat ; nor 
 can one imagine a poorer and more desolate country than that 
 which lies between the Halifax Kiver, which we had left in the 
 morning, and the undulated grounds at which we had now arrived. 
 " But at length we perceived the tracks of living beings, rnd 
 soon after saw the huts of Colonel Kees' negroes. Scarcijly 
 could ever African traveller have approached the city of Tim- 
 buctoo with more excited curiosity than we felt in approaching 
 this plantation. Our Indian horses seemed to participate in 
 our joy, and trotted at a smart rate towards the principal build- 
 ing, at the door of which we leaped from our saddles, just as the 
 Sim was withdrawing his ruddy light. Colonel Rees was at 
 home, and received us with great kindness. Refreshments were 
 immediately placed before us, and we spent the evening in 
 agreeable conversation. 
 
 "The next day I walked over the plantation, examining the 
 country around, and found the soil of good quality, it having 
 been reclaimed from swampy ground, of a black colour, rich, 
 and very productive. The greater part of the cultivated land 
 was on the borders of a lake which communicated witli others 
 leading to St. John's River, distant about seven miles, and 
 navigable so far by vessels not exceeding fifty or sixty tons. 
 After breakfast our amiable host showed us the \^av to the celo- 
 brated spring, the sight of which afforded me pleasure suflRcient 
 to counterbalance the todiousness of my journey. 
 
 o 
 
 kit 
 
 
 tint 
 
 
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'''■ II 
 
 194 
 
 TJPE OP AUDUBON. 
 
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 an 
 
 ! • «J 
 
 t-' il 
 
 H (|' 
 
 
 " This spring presents a circular basin, having a diameter of 
 about sixty feet, from the centre of which the water is thrown 
 up with great force, although it does not rise to a height of more 
 than a few inches above the general level. A kind of whirl- 
 pool is formed, on the edges of which are deposited vast quan^ 
 tities of shells, with pieces of wood, gravel, and other substances, 
 which have coalesced into solid masses, having a very curious 
 appearance. The water is quite transparent, although of a dark 
 colour, but so impregnated with sulphur, that it emits an odour 
 which to me was very disagreeable, and highly nauseous. Ita 
 surface lies fifteen or twenty feet below the level of the wood- 
 land lakes in the neighbourhood, and its depth in the autumnal 
 months is about seventeen feet when the water is lowest. In 
 all the lakes the same species of shells as are thrown up by the 
 spring occur in abundance ; and it seems more than probable 
 that it is formed of the water collected from them by infil- 
 tration, or forms the subterranean outlet of some of them. 
 The lakes themselves are merely reservoirs containing the 
 residue of the waters which fall during the rainy seasons, and 
 contributing to supply the waters of the St. John's River, with 
 which they communicate by similar means. This spring pours 
 its waters into * Rees' Lake,' through a deep and broad channel 
 caUed Spring Garden Creek. This channel is said to be in some 
 places fully sixty feet deep, but it becomes more shallow as you 
 advance towards the entrance of the lake, at which you are 
 surprised to find yourself on a mud flat covered only by about 
 fifteen inches of water, under which the depositions from the 
 spring lie to a depth of four or five feet in the form of the 
 softest mud, while under this again is a bed of fine white sand. 
 When this mud is stirred up by the oars of your boat or other- 
 wise, it appears of a dark-green colour, and smells strongly of 
 sulphur. At all times it sends up numerous bubbles of air, 
 which probably comes of sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The 
 mouth of this curious spring is calculated to be two and a half 
 feet square, and the velocity of its waters during the rainy 
 season is three feet per second. This would render the discharge 
 per hour about 499-500 gallons. 
 
 " Colonel Rees showed us the remains of another spring of the | 
 same kind, which had dried up from some natural cause. 
 
DEXTER'S LAKE. 
 
 195 
 
 " My companion the engineer having occupation for another 
 day, I requested Colonel Roes to accompany me in his boat 
 towards the river St. John, which 1 was desirous of seeing, as 
 well as the curious country in its neighbourhood. He readily 
 agreed, and after an early breakfast next morning, we set out, 
 accompanied by two servants to manage the boat. As we 
 crossed ' Uees' Lake ' 1 observed that its north-eastern shores 
 were bounded by a deep swamp, covered by a rich gi vvth of 
 tall cypresses, while the opposite side presented large marshes 
 and islands ornamented by pines, live oaks, and orange-trees. 
 
 " With the exception of a very narrow channel, the creek was 
 covered with nymphea), and in its waters swam numerous 
 alligators, while ibises, gallinules, ankingas, coots, and cormorants 
 were pursuing their avocations on its surface or along its 
 margins. Over our heads the fish-hawks were sailing, and on 
 the broken trees around we saw many of their nests. We 
 followed Spring Garden Creek for about two miles and a half, 
 and passed a mud-bar before we entered * Dexter's Lake.' The 
 bar was stuck full of unios in such profusion, that each time the 
 negroes thrust their hands into the mud they took up several. 
 According to their report these shell-fish are quite unfit for 
 food. In this lake the water had changed its hue, and assumed 
 a dark chestnut colour, although it was still transparent. 
 The depth was uniformly five feet, and the extent of the lake 
 was about eight miles by three. Having crossed it, wo followed 
 the creek, and soon saw the entrance of ' WoodrufTs Lake,' 
 which empties its still darker waters into the St. John's River. 
 I here shot a pair of curious ibises, which you will find described 
 in my fourth volume of ornithology, and landed on a small island 
 covered with wild orange-trees, the luxuriance and freshness of 
 which were not less pleasing to the sight than the perfume of 
 their flowers was to the smell. The group seemed to me like a 
 rich bouquet formed by nature to afford consolation to the weary 
 
 I traveller cast down by the dismal scenery of swamps, and pools, 
 and rank grass around him. Under the shade of these beautiful 
 evergreens, and amidst the golden fruits that covered the ground, 
 while the humming-birds fluttered over our heads, we spread 
 our cloth on the gi-ass, and, with a happy arid thankful heart., 
 
 I I refreshed myself with the bountiful gifts of an ever-careful 
 
 o 2 
 
IM 
 
 LIFE OP AUDUnON. 
 
 Il 
 
 
 Providence. Colonel Reea informed me that this oharrainp; 
 retreat was one of the numerous terrce incognitoe of this region 
 of lakes, and that it should henceforth bear the name of 
 ' Audubon's Isle.' 
 
 " In conclusion, let me inform you that the spring has now 
 been turned to good account by my generous host. Colonel Bees, 
 who, aided by my amiable companion the engineer, has directed 
 its current so as to turn a mill which suffices to grind tlie whole 
 of his sugar-cane." 
 
 I\- ': 1(1 
 
 '- m w) 
 
 # ■ ''It ■ III 
 
this oharming 
 Ice of this region 
 the name of 
 
 it 
 
 spring has now 
 »8t, Colonel Kees, 
 leer, has directed 
 
 grind the whole 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 Fourth Florida Episode: Deer Hunting. 
 
 " The different modes of destroying deer are probably too well 
 understood and too successfully practised in the United States ; 
 for notwitlistanding the almost incredible abundance of these 
 beautiful animals in our forests and prauries, such havoc is 
 carried on amongst them, that in a few centuries they will pro- 
 bably be as scarce in America as the great bustard now is in 
 Britain. 
 
 " We have three modes of hunting deer, each varying in some 
 slight degree in the different states and districts. The first is 
 termed ' still hunting,' and is by far the most destructive. The 
 second is called ' fire-light hunting,' and is next in its exter- 
 minating effects. The third, which may be looked upon as a 
 mere amusement, is named 'driving.' Although many deer 
 are destroyed by this latter method, it is not by any means so 
 pernicious as the others. These methods I shall describe sepa- 
 rately. 
 
 " ' Still hunting * is followed as a kind of trade by mos 
 of our frontier men. To be practised with success, it requires 
 great activity, an expert management of the rifle, and a thorough 
 knowledge of the forest, together with an intimate acquaintance 
 with the habits of the deer, not only at different seasons of the 
 I year, but also at every hour of the day, as the hunter must be 
 aware of the situations which the game prefers, and in which it 
 1 is most likely to be found at any jmrticular time. I might here 
 
 
 i 
 * 
 
 $ 
 
 ,1! 
 
196 
 
 LIFE OP AUDUBON. 
 
 )!'"' I« 
 
 present you with a full acroiuit of the habits of our deer, were 
 it not my iutontion to lay before you, at some future perixMl, in 
 the form of a distinct work, the observations which I have made 
 on the vaiious quadrupeds of our extensive territories. 
 
 "Wo shall suppose that we are now about to follow the 
 true hunter, as the still hunter is also called, through tho 
 interior of the tangled woods, across morasses, ravines, and 
 such places, where tho game may prove more or less plenti- 
 ful, oven should none be found there in the first instauoo, 
 We shall allow our hunter all the agility, patience, and euro 
 which his occupation requires, and will march in his rear, 
 as if we were spies watching all his motions. His dress, you 
 observe, consists of a leathern hunting-shirt, and a pair of 
 trousers of the same material. His feet are well moccasined; 
 ho wears a belt round his waist ; his heavy rifle is resting on 
 his brawny shoulder; on one side hangs his ball-pouch, sur- 
 mounted by the horn of an ancient buffalo, once the terror of 
 the herd, but now containing a pound of the best gunpowder, 
 His butcher-knife is f ibbarded in the same strap ; and behind 
 is a tomahawk, the handle of which has been thrust through 
 his girdle. He walks with so rapid a step that probably few 
 men besides ourselves, that is, myself and my kind reader, could 
 follow him, unless for a short distance, in their anxiety to 
 witness his ruthless deeds. He stops, looks at the flint of his 
 gun, its priming, and the leather cover of the lock, then glances 
 his eye towards the sky, to judge of the course most likely to 
 lead him to the game. 
 
 "The heavens are clear, the red glare of the sun gleams 
 through the lower branches of the lofty trees, the dew hangs in 
 pearly drops at the top of every leaf. Already has the emeruld 
 hue of the foliage been converted into the more glowing tints of 
 our autumnal months. A slight frost appears on the fence 
 rails of his little corn-field. 
 
 "As he proceeds he looks to the dead foliage under his feet, in 
 search of the well-known traces of a buck's hoof. Now he bends 
 toward the ground, on which something has attracted his atteii' 
 tion. See, he alters his course, increases his speed, and will 
 soon reach the opposite hill. Now he moves with caution, stops 
 at almost every tree, and peeps forward, as if already within 
 
SnOOTINO A MUCK. 
 
 IW 
 
 )f our deor, wore 
 future periiMl, in 
 lich I have made 
 ritorit'8. 
 
 at to follow the 
 ied, through tho 
 ses, ravines, and 
 re or less plenti- 
 he ilrat instauco. 
 ationce, and caro 
 trch in his rear, 
 His dress, you 
 t, and a pair of 
 well moccasined; 
 rifle is resting on 
 i ball-pouch, sur- 
 once the terror of 
 » best gunpowder, 
 strap ; and behind 
 bn thrust through 
 that probably few 
 tind reader, could 
 
 their anxiety to 
 at the flint of his 
 
 ock, then glances 
 rse most likely to 
 
 the sun gleams 
 the dew hangs in 
 y has the emeruld 
 •e glowing tints of 
 js on the fence 
 
 B under his feet, in 
 of. Now he bends 
 itracted his atten- 
 is speed, and will 
 (vith caution, stops 
 if already within 
 
 shooting distance of his game. He advances again ; but now 
 vory slowly. Ho has reached tho declivity, upon which tha 
 Bun shines in all its glowing splendour ; but mark him, he 
 takes the gun from his shoulder, has already thrown aside the 
 leather covering of the lock, and is wiping the edge of his flint 
 with his tongue. Now he stands like a monumental figure, 
 perhai>s measuring the distance that lies between him and 
 the game which he has in view. His rifle is slowly raised, 
 tho report follows, and he runs. Let us run also. Shall I 
 apeak to lim, and ask him tiie result of this first essay ? 
 ' Pray, friend, what have you killed ?' for to say, * What 
 have you shot at ?' might imply the possibility of his having 
 missed, and so might hurt his feelings. ' Nothing but a 
 buck.' 'And where is it?' 'Oh, it haa taken a jump 
 or so, but I settled it, and will soon be with it. My ball 
 struck, and must have gone through his heart.' We arrived 
 at the spot where the animal had laid itself down on the 
 grass, in a thicket of grape-vines, sumachs, and spruce-bushes, 
 where it intended to repose during tho middle of tho day. 
 Tho place is covered with blood, the hoofs of the deer have 
 left deep prints in the ground, as it bounced in the agonies 
 produced by its wound ; but the blood that has gushed from 
 its side discloses tho course which it has taken. We soon reach 
 the spot. There lies the buck, its tongue out, its eye dim, its 
 breath exhausted ; it is dead. The hunter drd ws his knife, cuts 
 the buck's throat almost asunder, and prepares to skin it. For 
 this purpose he hangs it upon the bianch of a tree. When the 
 skin is removed, he cuts ofl* tho hams, and abandoning the rest 
 of the carcaas to the wolves and vultures, reloads his gun, flings 
 the venison, enclosed by the skin, upon his back, secures it with 
 a strap, and walks ofif in search of more game, well knowing 
 that in the immediate neighbourhood another at least is to be 
 found. 
 
 " Had the weather been warmer, tho hunter would have sought 
 for the buck along the shadowy side of the hills. Had it been 
 the spring season, he would have led us through some thick 
 cane brake, to tho margin of some remote lake, where you would 
 have seen the deer immersed to his head in the water, to save 
 his body from tho tormenting mosquitoes. Had winter over- 
 
 
 '■MH 
 
 1 
 
 

 200 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 m:^^ 
 
 mu 
 
 ■*1!' 
 
 ■'#■*■• 
 
 spread the earth with a covering of ..now, he would have 
 searched the low, damp woods, where the mosses and lichens, on 
 whicli at that period the deer feeds, abound, the trees being 
 generally crusted with them for several feet from the ground. 
 At one time he might have marked the places where the deer 
 clears the velvet from his horns by rubbing them against the 
 low stems of bushes, and where he frequently scrapes the earth 
 with his fore-hoofs ; at another he would have betaken himself 
 to places where percimons and crab-apples abound, as beneath 
 these trees the deer frequently stops to munch tlieir fruits. 
 Dm-ing early spring our hunter would imitate the bleating of 
 the doe, and thus frequently obtain both her and the fawn ; or, 
 like some tribes of Indians, he would prepare a deer's head, 
 placed on a stick, and creeping witli it amongst the tall grass of 
 the prairies, would decoy the deer within reach of his rifle. 
 But, kind reader, you have seen enough of the ' still hunter.' 
 Let it suflSce for me to add that, by the mode pursued by him, 
 thousands of deer are annually killed, many individuals shooting 
 these animals merely for the skins, not caring for even the most 
 valuable portions of the flesh, unles>^ hunger or a near market 
 induces them to carry off the hams. 
 
 " The mode of destroying deer by fire-light, or, as it is 
 named in some parts of the country, foresi-^ighi, never fails 
 to produce a very singular feeling in him whr witnesses 
 it for the first time. There is eomething in it which at 
 times appears awfully grp' 1. At orher times a certain degree 
 of fear creeps over the mind, and even afiects the physical 
 powers of him who follows the hunter through tlie thick under- 
 growth of our woods, having to leap his horse over hundreds 
 of huge fallen trunks, at ono time impeded by a straggling 
 grape-vine crossing his path, at another squeezed between two 
 stubborn saplings, whilst their twigs come smack in )iis face, as 
 his companion has forced his way through tliem. Again, he 
 every now and then runs the risk of breaking his neck by being 
 suddenly pitclied headlong on the ground, as his horse sinks into 
 a Iiole covered over with moss. But 1 must proceed in a more 
 regular munnor, and leave you, kind reader, to judge whether 
 such a mode of hunting would suit j our taste or not. 
 
 " The hunter has returned to his 
 
 camp 
 
 or his house, has rested, 
 
 h :t 
 
Kir.LlNG DEEll BY FIRE-LIGHT. 
 
 201 
 
 he would have 
 and lichens, on 
 the trees being 
 )m the ground, 
 where the deer 
 lem against the 
 crapes the earth 
 betaken liimself 
 und, as beneath 
 ich tlieir fruits, 
 the bleating of 
 id the fawn ; or, 
 a deer's head, 
 the tall grass of 
 ach of his rifle, 
 he ' still hunter.' 
 puisued by him, 
 viduals shooting 
 jr even the most 
 )r a near market 
 
 hi, or, . as it is 
 ight, never fails 
 whr witnesses 
 in it which at 
 certain degree 
 ts the physical 
 ;lie thick under- 
 over hundreds 
 3y a straggling 
 d between two 
 V in liis face, as 
 em. Again, he 
 s neck by being 
 lorse sinks into 
 oceed in a more 
 D judge whether 
 not. 
 use, has rested, 
 
 and eaten his game. He lias procured a quant: 'y of pine-knots 
 filled with resinous matter, and has an old fryuig-pan, that, for 
 aught I know to tlie contrary, may have been used by his great- 
 grandmother, in which the pine-knots are to be placed when 
 h'ghted. The horses stand saddled at the door. The hunter comes 
 forth, his rifle slung on liis shoulder, and sf ringc upon one of 
 them, while his son or a servant mounts the other, with the frying- 
 pan and the pine-knots. Thus accoutred, they proceed towards 
 the interior of the forest. When they have arrived at the spot 
 where the hunt is to begin, they strike fire with a flint and steel, 
 iiud kindle the resinous wood. The person who carries the fire 
 moves in the direction judged to be the best. The blaze illu- 
 minates the near objects, but the distant parts seem involved in 
 deepest obscurity. 
 
 "The hunter who bears the gun keeps immediately in front, 
 and after a while discovers before him two feeble lights, whic^ 
 are produced by the reflection of the pine fire from the eyes of 
 an animal of the deer or wolf kind. The animal stands quite 
 still. To one unacquainted witli this strange mode of hunting, 
 the glare from its eyes might bring to his imagination some 
 lost hobgoblin that had strayed from its usual haimts. The 
 linntcr, however, nowise intimidated, approaches the object, 
 sometimes so near as to discern its form, when, raising the rifle 
 to his shoulder, lie fires and kills it on the spot. Ho then dis- 
 mounts, secures the skin and such portions of the flesh as he 
 may want, in the manner already described, and continues his 
 search through the gi'eater part of the night, sometimes to the 
 dawn of day, shooting from five to ten doer, should these animals 
 be plentiful. This Itind of hunting proves fatal, not to the deer 
 alone, but also sometimes to wolves, and now and then to a horse 
 or a cow which may have strayed far into the woods. 
 
 " Now, kind reader, prepare to mount a generous, full-blood 
 Virginia hunter, see that your gun is in complete order, for 
 hark to the sound of the bugle and horn, and the mingled 
 clamour of a pack of harriers. Your friends are waiting you 
 under the shade of the wood, and wo must together go driving 
 the light-footed deer. The distance over which one has to 
 travel is seldom felt when pleasure is anticipated as the result, so 
 jralloping we go pell-mell through the woods to some well-known 
 
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 I" I 
 t..r,i 
 
202 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
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 ;ii 
 
 Li:* 
 
 It 
 
 ICV 
 
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 place, where many a fine buck has drooped its antlers under 
 the ball of the hunter's rifle. The servants, who are called the 
 drivers, have already begun their search, their voices are heard 
 exciting the hounds, and unless we put spurs to our steeds, we 
 may be too late at our stand, and thus lose the first opportunity 
 of shooting the fleeting game as it passes by. Hark again ! The 
 dogs are in chase, the horn sounds louder and more clearly. 
 Hurry, hurry on I or we shall be sadly behind. Here we are 
 at last ; dismount, fasten your horse to this tree, place yourself 
 by the side of that large yellow poplar, and mind you do not 
 shoot me. The deer is fast approaching ; I will to my own 
 stand, and he who shoots him dead wins the prize. The deer 
 is heard coming ; it has inadvertently cracked a dead stick with 
 its hoof, and the dogs are now so near it that it will pass in a 
 moment. Tnoie it comes ! Hov/ beautifully it bounds over 
 the ground ! What a splendid head of horns ! How easy the 
 attitudoE, depending, as it seems to do, on its own swiftness for 
 safety ! All is in vain, however ; a gun is fired, the animal 
 plunges, and doubles w'.th incomparable speed. There he goes, 
 he passes another stand, from which a second shot, better directed 
 than the first, brings him to the ground. The dogs, the servants, 
 the sportsmen, are now rushing forward to the spot. The 
 hunter who has shot it is congratulated on his skill or good 
 luck, and the chase begins again in some other part of the 
 woods. 
 
 " A few lines of explanation may be required to convey a clear 
 idea of this mode of hunting. Deer are fond of following and re- 
 tracing the paths which they have formerly used, and continue to 
 do so even after they have been shot at more than once. Their 
 tracks are discovered by persons on horseback in the woods, or 
 a deer is observed crossing a road, a field, or a binall stream. 
 When this has been noticed twice, the deer may be shot from 
 the places called stands by the sportsman, who is statioiu'd 
 there and waits for it, a line of stands being generally formed 
 so as to cross th =5 path which the game will follow. The person 
 who aeeertains the usual pass of the game, or discovers the parts 
 where the animal feeds or lies down during the day, gives inti- 
 mation to his friends, who then prepare for the chase. The 
 servants start the deer with the hounds, and, by good manage- 
 
3 antlers under 
 > are called the 
 voices are heard 
 • our steeds, we 
 irst opportunity 
 ark again ! The 
 d more clearly. 
 . Here we are 
 3, place yourself 
 lind you do not 
 vill to my own 
 ►rize. The deer 
 
 dead stick with 
 it will pass in a 
 
 it bounds over 
 
 How easy the 
 
 wn swiftness for 
 
 red, the animal 
 
 There he goes, 
 t. better directed 
 gs, the servants, 
 
 the spot. The 
 lis skill or good 
 
 ler part of the 
 
 convey a clear 
 
 ollowing and re- 
 
 and continue to 
 
 an once. Their 
 
 n the woods, or 
 
 a bTnall stream. 
 
 ly be shot from 
 
 10 is stationed 
 
 onerally formed 
 
 w. The person 
 
 covers the parts 
 
 day, gives iiiti- 
 
 10 chase. Tliu 
 
 y good manage- 
 
 SHOOTING FROM STANDS. 
 
 203 
 
 ment, generally succeed in making it run the course that will 
 soonest bring it to its death. But should the deer be cautious, 
 and take another course, the hunters, mounted on swift horses, 
 gallop through the woods to intercept it, guided by the sound 
 of the horns and the cry of the dogs, and frequently succeed in 
 shooting it. This sport is extremely agreeable, and proves suc- 
 cessful on almost every occasion." 
 
 ■ ■■T 
 
 in 
 
201 
 
 LIKK OF AUDUBON. 
 
 Ar ■::!ii 
 
 \:: v 
 
 •! . 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV I. 
 
 Fifth Fi.oiiida Episodk: Sandy Island. 
 
 " I LEFT you abruptly, perhaps uncivilly, reader, at the dawn of 
 day on Sandy Island, which lies just six miles from the extreme 
 point of South Florida. I did so because I was amazed at the 
 appearance of things around me, which, in i'act, looked so (dif- 
 ferent then from what they seemed at night. +l:at it took some 
 minutes' reflection to account for the change. When we laid 
 ourselves down on the sand to oleep, the waters almost bathed 
 our feet ; when we opened our eyes in the morning, they were 
 at an immense distance. Our boat lay on her side, looking not 
 unlike a whale reposing on a mud-bank ; the birds in myrif 's 
 were probing their pasture-gi'ound. There great flocks of ibises 
 fed apart from equally large collections of ' godwits,' and thou- 
 sands of herons gracefully paced along, ever and anon thrusting 
 their javelin bills into the body of some unfortunate fish con- 
 flned in a small pool of water. Of fish-crows 1 could not estimate 
 the number, but from the havoc they made among the crabs, 
 1 conjecture that these animals must have been scarce by the 
 time of next ebb. Frigate pelicans chased the jager, which 
 himself had just robbed a poor gull of its prize ; and all the 
 galliuules run with spread wings from the mud-banks to the 
 thickets of the island, so timorous had they become when they 
 perceivel us. Surrounded as we were by so many objects tliat 
 allured us, not one could we yet attain, so dangerous would it 
 have been to venture on the mud ; an-' our pilot having assured 
 
 iVa , ii! 
 
COOKINO RRFiAKFART. 
 
 205 
 
 , at tlio dawn of 
 
 om the extreme 
 
 amazed at the 
 
 t, looked so dif- 
 
 ;a,t it took some 
 
 When we laid 
 
 almost bathed 
 
 aiug, they were 
 
 de, looking not 
 
 •ds in niyria 's 
 
 floeks of ibises 
 
 wits,' and thou- 
 
 anon thrusting 
 
 mate fish con- 
 
 il not estimate 
 
 iiong the crabs, 
 
 scarce by the 
 
 e jager, which 
 
 ; and all the 
 
 -banks to the 
 
 jme when they 
 
 ny cdvjects that 
 
 ;crous woidd it 
 
 having assuiod 
 
 lis that nothing could be lost by waiting, spoke of our eating, 
 and on this hint told that he would take us to a part of the 
 island where * our breakfast would bo abundant, although un- 
 cooked.' Off we went, some of the sailors carrying baskets, 
 others large tin pans and wooden vessels such as they use for 
 eating their meals in. Entering a thicket of about an acre in 
 extent, we found on every bush several nests of the ibis, each 
 containing throe large and beautiful eggs, and all hands fell to 
 gathering. The birds gave way to us, and ere long we had a 
 heap of eggs, that promised delicious food. Nor did we stand 
 long in expectation ; for, kindling a fire, we soon preparefl, in 
 one way or other, enough to satisfy the cravings of our hungry 
 maws. Breakfast ended, the pilot, looking at the gorgeous 
 sunrise, said, ' Gentlemen, prepare yourselves for fun ; the tide 
 is a-coming.' Over these mud flats a foot or two of water is 
 quite sufficient to drive all the birds ashore, even the tallest 
 heron or flamingo ; and the tide seems to flow at once over the 
 whole expanse. Each of us, provided with a gun, posted himself 
 behind a bush, and no sooner had the water forced the winged 
 creatures to approach the shore, than the work of destruction 
 commenced. When it at length ceased, the collected mass of 
 birds of different kinds looked not unlike a small haycock. 
 Who could not with a little industry have helped liimself to 
 a few of their skins? Why, reader, surely no one as fond of 
 these things as 1 am. Every one assisted in this, and even the 
 sailors themselves tried their hand at the work. Our pilot, 
 good man, told us ho was no hand at such occupations, and 
 would go after something else. So taking ' Long Tom ' and his 
 fishing-tackle, he marched off quietly along the shores. About 
 on hour afterwards we saw him returning, when he looked 
 quite exhausted ; and on our inquiring the cause, said, ' There 
 is a dew -fish yonder, and a few balacondas, but I am not able 
 to bring them, or even to haul them hero ; please send the 
 sailors after them.' The fishes were accordingly brought, and 
 as I had never seen a ' dew-fish,' f examined it closely, and 
 took an outline of its form, which some days hence you may 
 perhaps see. It exi'eeded a hundred pounds in weight, and 
 aiforded excellent eating. The balaconda is also a good fish, 
 but at times a dangerous one, for, according to the pilot, on 
 
 

 
 Il.'i 
 
 . ■• il 
 L; f' 
 
 -3 1,1 
 
 200 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 more than one occasion ' some of tliese gentry * had followed 
 liim, when waist-deep in the water in pursuit of a more valuable 
 prize, until in self-defence he had to spear them, fearing that 
 the ' gentleman ' might at one dart cut off his legs, or some 
 other nice bit with which he was unwilling to part. Having 
 filled our cask from a fine well, long since dag in the sand of 
 Cape Sable, either by Seminole Indians or pirates, no matter 
 which, wo left Sandy Isle about full tide, and proceeded home- 
 wards, giving a call here and there at diiferent keys, with the 
 view of procuring rare birds, and also their nests and eggs. We 
 had twenty miles to go ' as the birds fly,' but the tortuosity of 
 the channels rendered our course fully a third longer. The sun 
 was descending fast, when a black cloud suddenly obscured tlie 
 majestic orb. Our sails swelled by a breeze that was scarcely 
 felt by us, and the pilot, requesting us to sit on the weather 
 gunwale, told us that we were * going to get it.' One sail was 
 hauled in and secured, and the other wac reefed, although the 
 wind had not increased. A low murmuring noise was heard, 
 and across the cloud that now rolled along in tumultuous masses 
 shot vivid flashes of lightning. Our experienced guide steered 
 directly across a flat towards the nearest land. The sailors 
 passed their quids from one cheek to the other, and our pilot 
 having covered himself with his oil jacket, we followed his 
 example. ' Blow, sweet breeze,' cried he at the tiller, 'and we'll 
 reach land before the blast overtakes us ; for, gentlemen, it is a 
 furious cloud yon.' A furious cloud indeed vas the one whi li 
 now, like an eagle on outstretched wings, approached so swiftly, 
 that one might have deemed it in haste to destroy us. We 
 were not more than a cable's length from the shore, when with 
 imperative voice the pilot calmly said to us, * Sit quite still, 
 gentlemen, for I should not like to lose you overboard just now ; 
 the boat can't upset, my word for that, if you will but sit still ; 
 here we have it !' Reader, persons who have never witnessed 
 a hurricane, such as not uufrequently desolates the sultry 
 climates of the soutli, can scarcely form an idea of their terrific 
 grandeur. One would think that, not content with laying waste 
 all on land, it nnist needs sweep the waters of the shallows quite 
 dry to quench its thirst. No respite for a moment does it 
 afford to the objects within the reach of its furious ciuTcnt. 
 
A HURRICANE. 
 
 907 
 
 r ' had followed 
 a more valuable 
 !m, fearing that 
 8 legs, or some 
 part. Having 
 sr iix the sand of 
 ites, no matter 
 )roceeded home- 
 ; keys, with the 
 and eggs. We 
 the tortuosity of 
 mger. The sun 
 ily obscured tlie 
 hat was scarcely 
 on the weather 
 ;.' One sail was 
 ed, although the 
 noise was heard, 
 multuous masses 
 ed guide steered 
 id. The sailors 
 ler, and our pilot 
 e followed his 
 tiller, ' and we'll 
 iutlemen, it is ii 
 the one whi' h 
 iched so swiftly, 
 estroy us. We 
 Ihore, when with 
 '' Sit quite still, 
 [•board just now ; 
 ill but sit still ; 
 never witnessed 
 ates the sultry 
 of their terrific 
 ith laying waste 
 ,e shallows quite 
 oment does it 
 furious current. 
 
 Like the scythe of the destroying angel, it cuts everything by 
 the roots, as it were, with the careless ease of the experienced 
 mower. Each of its revolving sweeps collects a heap that 
 might be likened to the full sheaf which the husbandman flings 
 by his side. On it goes, with a wildness and fury that are 
 indescribable ; and when at last its frightful blasts have ceased, 
 nature, weeping and disconsolate, is left bereaved of her beauti- 
 ful offspring. In instances, even a full century is required 
 before, with all her powerful energies, she can repair her loss. 
 The planter has not only lost his mansion, his crops, and his 
 flocks, but he has to clear his lands anew, covered and entangled 
 as they are with the trunks and branches of trees, that are 
 everywhere strewn. The bark overtaken by the storm is cast 
 on the lee-shore, and if any are left to witness the fatal results 
 they are the ' wreckers ' alone, who, with inward delight, gaze 
 upon the melancholy spectacle. Our light bark shivered like a 
 leaf the instant the blast reached her sides. We thought sho 
 had gone over ; but the next instant she was on the shore, and 
 now, in contemplation of the sublime and awful storm, I gazed 
 around me. The waters drifted like snow ; the tough mangroves 
 hid their tops amid their roots, and the loud roaring of the 
 waves driven among them blended with the howl of the tempest. 
 It was not rain that fell; the masses of water flew in a hori- 
 zontal direction, and where a part of my body was exposed, I 
 felt as if a smart bloiv had been given me on it. But enough : 
 in half an hour it was over. The pure blue sky once more 
 embellished the heavens, and although it was now quite night, 
 we considered our situation a good one. The crew and some of 
 the party spent the night on board ; the pilot, myself, and one of 
 my assistants took to the heart of the mangroves, and having 
 found high land, w(3 made a fire as well as we could, spread a 
 tarpaulin, and fixing our insect-bars over us, soon forgot in sleep 
 the horrors that had surrounded us. Next day the Marion pro- 
 ceeded on her cruize, and in a few more days, having anchored 
 iu another safe harbour, we visited other keys, of which I will, 
 with your leave, give you a short account. 
 
 "The deputy collector of Indian Isle gave me the use of his 
 pilot for a few weeks, and I was the more gratified by this, that 
 besides knowing him to be a good man and a perfect sailor, I 
 
*:: 
 
 ■.Itf. -■.;■ 
 
 
 208 
 
 LIFE OP AUDUBON. 
 
 wns now conviiicod that lie possessed a great knowledge of tli(> 
 habits of birds, and could without loss of time lead me to their 
 haunts. We were a hundred miles or so farther to the south. 
 Gay May, like a playful babe, gambolled on the bosom of his 
 mother nature, and everything was replete with life and joy. 
 The pilot had spoken to me of some birds which I was very 
 desirous of obtaining. One morning, therefore, we went in two 
 boats to some distant isle, where they were said to breed. Our 
 difficulties in reaching that key might to some seem more ima- 
 ginary than real, were I faithfully to describe them. Snfficii it 
 for me to tell you that, after hauling our boats and pushing 
 them with our hands for upwards of nine miles over the flats, 
 we at last reached the deep channel that usually surrounds each 
 of the mangrove isles. We were much exhausted by the labour 
 and excessive heat, but we were now floating on deep water, 
 and by resting under the shade of some mangroves, we were 
 soon refreshed by the breeze that gently blew from the gulf. 
 
 "The heron which I have named 'Ardea occidental is ' was 
 seen moving majestically in great numbers, the tide rose 
 and drove them away, and as they came towards us, to aliglit 
 and rest for a while on the tallest trees, we shot as many as I 
 wished. I also took under my charge several of their young 
 alive. At another time we visited the ' Mule Keys ;' there the 
 prospect was in many respects dismal enougli. As I followed 
 their shores, I saw bales of cotton floating in all the coves, while 
 spars of every description lay on the beach, and far off on the 
 reefs I could see the last remains of a lost ship, her dismasted 
 hulk. Several schooners were around her ; they were ' wreckers.' 
 I turned me from the sight with a heavy heart. Indeed, as 1 
 slowly proceeded, I dreaded to meet the floating or cast-ashore 
 bodies of some of the unfortunate crew. Our visit to the * Mule 
 Keys ' was in no way profitable, for besides meeting with but a 
 few birds, in two or three instances I was, while swimming in 
 the deep channel of a mangrove isle, much nearer a large shark 
 than I wish ever to be again." 
 
iwlodgo of the 
 eatl me to their 
 er to the south. 
 3 bosom of his 
 h life and joy, 
 hich I was very 
 wo went in two 
 to breed. Our 
 3eem more ima- 
 hem. Suffice it 
 its and pushing 
 58 over the flats, 
 J surrounds each 
 3d by the labour 
 on deep water, 
 igroves, we were 
 rom the gulf, 
 jccidentalis ' was 
 , the tide rose 
 ards us, to alight 
 ot as many as I 
 of their young 
 ieys ;' there the 
 As I followed 
 the coves, while 
 d far off on the 
 I, her dismasied 
 were ' wreckers.' 
 Indeed, as I 
 g or cast-ashove 
 sit to the * Mule 
 iting with but a 
 le swimming in 
 ■er a large shark 
 
 t 
 
 C11A1»TER XXXVn. 
 
 Sixth Fi.oiud.v Episokk : Thk Wueckkhs ok Fi.(iiiii>.\. 
 
 '■ Long before I reached the lovely islets that border the south- 
 eastern shores of the Floridas, the accounts I had heard of 
 'The Wreckers' had deeply prejudiced me against them. Often 
 liiul I been informed of the cruel and cowardly methods which 
 it was alleged they employed to allure vessels of all nations to 
 the dreaded reefs, that they might plunder their cargoes, and 
 rob their crews and passengers of their eifects. I therefore 
 could have little desire to meet with such men under any 
 circumstances, much less to become liable to receive their aid ; 
 and with the name of ' wrecker ' there were associated in nxy 
 mind ideas of piratical depredation, barbarous usage, and even 
 murder. One fair afternoon, while I was standing on the 
 polished deck of the United States revenue cutter, the Marion, 
 I a sail hove in sight, bearing in an opposite course, close-hauled 
 to the wind. The gentle sway of her masts, as .?he rocked to 
 and fro in the breeze, brought to my mind the wavings of the 
 reeds on the fertile banks of the ]Mi?sissippi. By and by the 
 vessel, altering her course, approached us. The ]\rdrion, like a 
 sea bird witli extended wings, swept through the waters, gently 
 iiicliuing to either side, while the unknown vessel leaped as it 
 ] were from wave to wave, like the d()l})hin in eager pursuit of 
 Ills prey. In a short time we were gliding side by side, and the 
 commander of tlie strange schooner saluted our captain, wlio 
 [[troiuptly returned the compliment. Vv'hat a beautiful v(\s,sel, 
 
 P 
 
m 
 
 210 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUnoN. 
 
 1^ 
 
 J 1'. :'■■ 
 
 Vi ; 
 
 'ft t / w 
 
 Ml,. 
 
 :i 
 
 !• 
 
 it*-"* 
 
 
 ''■•I*. 
 
 we all thought, how trim, how clean rigged, and how well 
 manned. She swims like a duck, and now, with a broad sheer, 
 olT she makes for the reefs, a few miles under our lee. There 
 in that narrow passage, well known to her eoniinander, slio 
 rolls, tumbles, and dances like a giddy thing, her copper sheathing 
 now gleaming, and again disappearing under the waves. But 
 the passage is made, and now, hauling on the wind, she resumes 
 her former course, and gradually recedes from the view. 
 Reader, it was a Florida wrecker. When at the Tortugas, I 
 paid a visit to several vessels of this kind, in company with my 
 friend Kobert Day, Esq. We hud observed the regidarity and 
 quickness of the men then employed at their arduous tasks, and 
 as we approached the largest schooner, I admired her form, so 
 well adapted to her occupation, her great breadth of beam, her 
 light draught, the correctness of her water line, the neatness of 
 her painted sides, the smoothness of her well-greased masts, and 
 the beauty of her rigging. We were welcomed on board with 
 all the frankness of our native tars. Silence and order pre- 
 vailed on her decks. The commander and the second officer 
 led us into a spacious cabin, well lighted, and furnished with 
 every convenience for fifteen or more passengers. Tiie former 
 biought me his collection of marine shells, and whenever I 
 pointed to one that I had not seen before, offered it with so 
 much kindness, that I found it necessary to be careful in ex- 
 pressing my admiration of any particular shell. He had also 
 many eggs of rare birds, which were all handed over to nie, 
 with an assurance that before the month should ex])ire a now 
 set could easily be procured ; for, said he, ' we have much idle 
 time on the reefs at this season.' I)inner was served, and we 
 partook of their fiire, which consisted of fish, fowl, and other 
 materials. These rovers were l)oth from down east, were stuiit 
 active men, cleanly and smart in their attire. In a short time 
 we were all extremely social and merry. They thouglit my visit 
 to the Tortugas in quest of birds was rather a curious liincy, 
 but notwithstanding, tliey expressed their pleasure while looking 
 at some of my drawings, and oifercd their services in procuring 
 specimens. Expeditions far and near were proposed, and on 
 settling that one of tlicm was to take place on the morrow, we 
 parted friends. Early next morning several of these kind men 
 
FLOIUDA WUKCKKKS. 
 
 211 
 
 
 nnd how well 
 a broad sheer, 
 ur leo. There 
 :)ninmii(ler, slio 
 opi)er sheathin;^ 
 10 waves. But 
 ml, she resumes 
 mill the view, 
 the Tortugas, I 
 rnpany with my 
 ) regularity untl 
 luous tasks, and 
 vA her form, so 
 th of beam, her 
 , the ueatuess of 
 eased masts, and 
 il ou board with 
 and order pre- 
 ihe second officer 
 1 furnished with 
 3rs. The former 
 and whenever I 
 ered it with so 
 lO careful in ex- 
 ll. He had also 
 ded over to me, 
 lid exjiire a new 
 have much idle 
 |vs served, and we 
 fowl, and other 
 east, were stout 
 In a short time 
 thought my visit 
 a curious iUncy, 
 lire while lookini; 
 .•es in procuriu[.' 
 roposcd, and on 
 |i the morrow, we 
 these kind men 
 
 uccom})anied mc? to a snnill key called Uooby Island, about tea 
 miles distant from the lighthouse. Their boats W(n*e widi 
 iiiunned, and rowed with long and steady strokes, such as 
 whalers and men-of-wur's men are wont to draw. The captain 
 sang, and at times, by way of frolic, ran a race with our own 
 beautiful bark. The JJooby Isle was soon reached, and our 
 s[)ort thero was equal to any wo had elsewhere. They wore 
 capital shots, had excellent guns, and knew more about boobies 
 tiiul noddies than nine-tenths of the best naturalists in the 
 world. 
 
 " But what will you say when I tell you that tho ' Florida 
 wreckers' are excellent at a deer hunt, and that at certain 
 seasons, ' when business is slack,' they are wont to Imid on 
 some extensive key, and in a few hours i)rocuro a supi)ly of 
 delicious venison. Some days after tho same party took me on 
 au expedition in quest of sea shells. Thero wo were all in tho 
 water at times to the waist, and now and then much deeper. 
 Now they would dip like ducks, and on emerging would hold 
 up a beautiful shell. This occupation they seemed to enjoy 
 (ibove all others. The duties of tho Marion having been per- 
 formed, intimation of our intended departures reached the 
 wreckers. An invitation was sent me to go and see them on 
 board their vessel, which I accepted. Their object on this 
 occasion was to present me with some superb corals, shells, live 
 turtles of the hawk-billed species, and a great quantity of eggs. 
 Not a picayune would they receive in return, but putting some 
 letters in my hands, requested me to be so gool as to put them 
 ill the mail at Charleston, adding that they were for their 
 wives down east. So anxious did they appear to be to do all 
 they could for me, that they pro[)osed to sail before the 
 Marion, and meet her under weigh, to give me some birds that 
 were rare on the coast, and of which they knew the haunts. 
 Circumstances connected with tli(3 service prevented this how- 
 ever, and with sincere regret, and a good ])ortion of friendship, 
 I bade these excellent fellows adimi. How dift'erent, thought I, 
 is often the knowh^lge of things acquired from personal obser- 
 v;iti(m, from that obtained by report. I .had never before i;een 
 Florida wreckers, nor has it since been mv fortune to fall in 
 with any; but my good I'riend I)r. Hcnjiunin 8trobel, having 
 
 1' 2 
 

 3 
 
 'Si > 
 
 , Mil :^ 
 
 1 
 
 Hi 
 
 
 i'l 
 
 ! .-! 
 
 1) 
 
 1) 
 
 212 
 
 MFR OF AUDlTnON. 
 
 fnniisli(«l mo with a grapliir acif'onnt. of a fow days ho Hpoiit 
 with thcin, I Hhiill proHont you with it in his own words. 
 
 " 'On tho 12th (Uiy of ScptcndxT, while lyiuf; in harhonr nt 
 Indian K'cy, wo wovo joinivl l)y fiv(( wrcckinf; vchhcIs. Their 
 liccnscM hiivini^ expired, it was necesHtiry to p) to Key West, to 
 renew them. We determiiie(l to n('comi)any thom tlin next 
 monn'n*;, and hen* it will not ho amiss f(»r mo to say a f(!W words 
 respectinu^ these far-famo() wrookers, their captains and orows. 
 From all that F liad heard, I oxpoctecl to see a i)aroel of dirty, 
 pirate-looi<in<jf vessels, oHleered and nninned hy a set of hhick- 
 whiskered fellows, who carried murder in their v(My looks. 1 
 was ajj^roeahly sui prised on diseovoriu};' that tin* vessels were 
 fine larfjo sloops and schooners, r(>fj;ular dippers, kept in first- 
 rato onh-r. Tho captains generally were jovial, good-humoured 
 sons of Neptune, who manifestcil a dis[)osition to be polite and 
 hospitahhf, and to afford every facility to persons passing up 
 and down tho ro(ds. Tho crows were hearty, woU-dressed, and 
 honost-looking men. On tho 18th, at tho appointed hour, wo 
 all s((t sail together, that is, tho five wreckers and tho schooner 
 Jane. As our vessel was not noted for fast sailing, wo aeoeptoil 
 an invitation to go on board of a wrecker. Tho fleot got under 
 weigh about eight o'clock in tho morning, tho wind light but 
 fair, tho water smooth, and tho day flno. I can scarcely find 
 words to express tho pleasure and gratification ."liich 1 this day 
 experienced. The sea was of a beautiful, scjft, i- . green colour, 
 smooth as a sheet of glass, and as transparent, its surface 
 agitated oidy by our vessels as they parted its bosom, or by the 
 pelican in pursuit of his prey, which, rising for a considoraljle 
 distance in the air, would suddenly plmigo down with distended 
 mandibles, and secure his food. Tho vessels of our little fleet, 
 with every sail set that could catch a breeze, and the white 
 foam curling round the prows, glided silently along, like islands 
 of flitting shadows, on an immovable sea of light. Several 
 fathoms below tho surface of tho water, and under ns, wo 
 saw great quantities of fish diving and sporting amongst the 
 sea grass, sponges, sea feathers, and corals, with whi(di tlio 
 bottom was covered. On our right hand tho Florida Keys, 
 as W(! made them in the distance, looked like specks upon the 
 water, but as wo nearod them, rose to view as if by enchantment, 
 
 1 
 
TIIK WAY OF HONDA. 
 
 218 
 
 iiyfl ho Hpont 
 
 ivonln. 
 
 ill luubour at 
 
 K(7 Wo«t, to 
 lioni tl>o uoxt 
 ay a f<'W words 
 .ins and crows, 
 puroi'l of dirty, 
 IV sot of Muck- 
 v(M'y looks. I 
 \\o. vessels were 
 I, kept in first- 
 (rood-lnunourcd 
 c( bt! polite and 
 ()H9 passin«j; up 
 .•ell-dressed, and 
 ointed hour, \v(> 
 ul tlio scliooiKT 
 i\rt, we accepted 
 fleet got under 
 wind light but 
 ,n scarcely find 
 liidx I this day 
 . j^reen colour, 
 lent, its surface 
 Dsoni, or by the 
 a considerable 
 with distended 
 our little fleet, 
 and the white 
 \nvf like islands 
 li«-ht. Several 
 |l under us, we 
 iig amongst the 
 Irt'ith whicdi the 
 Florithi Keys, 
 Ispecks upon the 
 >y enchantment, 
 
 clad in llie richest livery of spring, each variety of colour and 
 hue rendered .soft and (hdicate by a clear sky and brilliant sun 
 (»vcrliea<l. All was like a fairy scene ; m,' heart leaped up in 
 delighted adiniratit)!), and i could not but exclaitn, in the 
 language of Scott, 
 
 TllOHO HCiW \k'1iuI(1, 
 
 Ituuiul thricu nil lniiKhcd isltiiids iiiIIimI. 
 
 Th(^ tra(h> winds played around us with Italiny and refreshing 
 sweetness; and to give life and animation to the scone, we had a 
 contest fortia* mastery between all the vcsscds of the licet, while 
 a deep interest was excite<l in tliis or that vessel, as she shot 
 ahead or fell astern. About three o'ehudc of the afternoon wo 
 arrived ofl" the JJay of Jlonda. The wind being light, and no 
 prospeci of reaching Key West that night, it was agreed we shoidd 
 make a harbour here. We entered a beautiful basin, and camo 
 to amdior about four o'clock. Boats were laun(diei|, and several 
 hunting parties formed. Wo landed, and were soon on the 
 scent, some going in .search of shells, others of birds. An 
 Indian who had been picked up somewhere along the coast by 
 some wrecker, and who was omidoyed as a hunter, was sent on 
 shore in search of venison. Previous to his leaving the vessel 
 a riHe was loaded with a single ball, and jait into his hands. 
 After an absence of several hours he returned with two deer, 
 which ho had killed at a single shot. lie watched until they 
 wire both in range of his gun, side by side, when he llred and 
 brought them down. All hands having returned, and the fruits 
 of our excursion being collected, we had wherewithal to make 
 an abundant supper. IMost of the game was sent on board of 
 the larger vessel, where wo proposed supping. Our vessels 
 were all lying within hail of each other, and as soon as the 
 moon arose, boats were seen passing from one to the otiier, and 
 all were busily and happily engaged in exchanging civilities. 
 One would never have su[)po.setl that these men were ])ro- 
 fessional rivals, so apparent was the good feeling that prevailed 
 lunongst them. About nine o'clock we started for supper. A 
 number of persons had already collected, and as soon as we 
 iirrived on board the vessel, a German sailor, who played 
 remarkably well on the violin, was summoned to the rpiarter- 
 
m^r 
 
 »** ■••ft' 
 
 •T ■,%; 
 
 214 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 deck, when all hands vith a good will cheerily danced to lively 
 airs until supper was ready. The table was laid in the cabin, 
 and groaned under its load of venison, wild ducks, pigeons, 
 curlews, and fish. Toasting and singing succeeded the supper, 
 and among other curious matters introduced, the following song 
 was sung by the German fiddler, who accompanied his voice 
 with his instrument. He was said to be the author of the song. 
 I say nothing of tiie poetry, but merely give it as it came on 
 my ear. It is certainly very characteristic. 
 
 THE WRECKERS' SONG. 
 
 Come all yc good people one and all, 
 
 Conic listen to my song ; 
 A few remarks I have to make, 
 
 Which won't be very long. 
 'Tis of our vessel, stont and goot, 
 As ever yet was built of woot ; 
 Along the reef where the breakers roar, 
 Dc wreckers on de Florida shore. 
 
 Key Tavernier's our rendezvous, 
 
 At anchor there we lie ; 
 And see the vessels in the Gulf 
 
 Carelessly passing by. 
 When night comes on we dance and sing, 
 Whilst the current some vessel is floating in ; 
 When daylight comes, a ship's on shore, 
 Among de rocks where de breakers roar. 
 
 singer 
 he pla 
 mysel 
 which 
 eft'ect.' 
 
 I ii 
 
 When daylight dawns we're under weigh, 
 
 And every sail is set ; 
 And if the wind it should prove light, 
 
 Why then our sails we wet. 
 To gain her first each eager strives. 
 To save de cargo and de people's lives ; 
 Amongst de rocks, where de breakers roar, 
 De wreckers on the Florida shore. 
 
 Wl'^n we get 'longside, we find she's bilged, 
 
 Wc know veil vat to do ; 
 Save de cargo dat we can, 
 
 De sails and rigging too. 
 Den down to Key West we soon vill go, 
 Wlicn quickly our salvage we shall know ; 
 When every ting it is fairly sold. 
 Our money down tn up it is fold. 
 
THE WllECKERS' SONG. 
 
 215 
 
 lanced to lively 
 i in the cabin, 
 ducks, pigeons, 
 led the supper. 
 
 following song 
 inied his voice 
 lor of the song. 
 
 as it came on 
 
 Dun one week's cruise we'll have on shore, 
 
 Before we do sail again ; 
 And drink success to the sailor lads 
 
 Dat arc ploughing of de main. 
 And when you are passing by this way, 
 On the Florida Reef should you chance to stray, 
 Why, we will come to you on the shore. 
 Amongst de rocks where de breakers roar. 
 
 "'Great emphasis was laid upon particular words by the 
 singer, who had a broad G- irman accent. Between the verses 
 he played a symphony, remarking, " Gentlemens, I makes dat 
 myself." The chorus was trolled by twenty or thirty voices, 
 which in the stillness oi the night produced no unpleasant 
 effect.'" 
 
 in; 
 
21 f! 
 
 \AVK OF AUDUllON. 
 
 :k 
 
 fi: 
 
 CHAPTEU XXXVITI. 
 
 ■ --«!-, 
 
 "•■J»; 
 
 >« U 
 
 * I 
 
 Sevkntii Florida EnsoDio: Thk Tuutlers ok Florida. 
 
 " The Tortugas are a group of islands lying about eiglity miles 
 from Key West, and the last of those that seem to defend the 
 peninsula of the Floridas. They consist of five or six extremely 
 low uninhabitable banks, formed of shelly sand, and are resorted 
 to principally by that class of men called wreckers and turtlers. 
 Between tliese islands are deep channels, which although 
 extremely intricate, are well known to those adventurers, as 
 well as to the commanders of the revenue cutters whose duties 
 call them to that dangerous coast. The great coral reef or wall 
 lies about eight miles from these inhospitable isles, in the 
 direction of the Gulf, and on it many an ignorant or careless 
 navigator has suifered shipwreck. The whole ground around 
 them is densely covered with corals, sea fans, and other pro- 
 ductions of the deep, amid which crawl innumerable testaceous 
 animals; while shoals of curious and beautiful fishes fill the 
 limpid waters above them. Turtles of different species resort 
 to these banks, to deposit their eggs in the burning sand, and 
 clouds of sea fowl arrive every spring for the same purpose. 
 These are followed by persons called ' eggers,' who, when their 
 cargoes are completed, sail to distant markets to exchange their 
 ill-gotten ware for a portion of that gold on the acquisition of 
 which all men seem bent. 
 
 "The IMariou having occasion to visit the Tortugas, I 
 gladly embracetl the opportunity of seeing those colebratoil 
 
A GLORIOUS SUNSET. 
 
 21; 
 
 Flokiua. 
 
 )ut eighty miles 
 m to defend the 
 )r six extremely 
 ind are resorted 
 ers and turtlers. 
 wliicli although 
 adventurers, as 
 ■^rs whose duties 
 ral reef or wall 
 e isles, in the 
 ■ant or careless 
 ground around 
 and other pro- 
 able testaceous 
 fishes fill the 
 species resort 
 rning sand, and 
 same purpose, 
 vho, when their 
 exchange their 
 acquisition of 
 
 10 Tortugas, I 
 lose celebratod 
 
 islets. A few ho. rs before sunset the joyful cry of 'land' 
 announced our approach to them, but as the breeze was 
 fresh, and the pilot was well a(;quainted with all the windings 
 of the channels, we held on, and dropped anchor before 
 twilight. If yon have never seen the sun setting in those 
 latitudes, I would recommend you ft) make a voyage for 
 tlie purpose, for I much doubt if, in any other portion of the 
 world, the departure of the orb of day is accompanied witli 
 such gorgeous appearances. Look at the great red disc, 
 increased to triple its ordinary dimens-'ons. Now it has partially 
 sunk beneath the distant line of waters, and with its still 
 remaining half irradiates the whole heavens with a flood of 
 light, purpling the i'ar-oflp clouds that hover over the western 
 horizon. A blaze of refulgent glory streams thi-ough the 
 portals of the west, and the masses of vapour assume the 
 semblance of mountains of molten gold. But the sun has now 
 disapi)eared, and from the east slowly advances the grey curtain 
 which night draws over the world. The night-ha\\k k flapping 
 his noiseless wings in the gentle sea breeze ; the terns, safely 
 landed, have settled on their nests ; the frigate pelicans are 
 seen wending their v.ay to distant mangroves; and the brown 
 gannet, in search of a resting place, has perched on the yard of 
 the vessel. Slowly advancing landward, their heads alone above 
 the water, are observed the heavily-laden turtles, anxious to 
 deposit their eggs in the well-known sands. On the siu'faco of 
 the gently rippling stream I dimly see their broad forms as they 
 toil along, while at intervals may be heard their hurried 
 breathings, indicative of suspicion and fear. The moon with 
 lier silvery light now illumines the scene, and the turtle having 
 liinded, slowly and laboriously drags her heavy body over the 
 sand, her ' flappers ' being better adapted for motion in water 
 tliau on the shore. Up the slope however she works her way, 
 and see how industriously she removes the sand beneath her, 
 casting it out on either side. Layer after layer she deposits lier 
 eggs, arranging them in the most careful manner, and with her 
 hind paddles brings the sand over them. The business is 
 accomplished, the spot is covered over, and with a joyful heart 
 the turtle swiftly retires toward the shore and launches into 
 the deep. 
 

 IliP 
 
 i 'i 
 
 
 '•w;:'! 
 
 IM. 
 
 ii' 
 
 k 
 
 
 lil 
 
 218 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 "But the Tortugas are not the only breeding-places of 
 the turtle : these animals, on the contrary, frequent many other 
 keys as well as various parts of the coast of the mainland. 
 There are four different cpecies, which are known by the names 
 of the green turtle, the hawk-billed turtle, the logger-hear' turtle, 
 and the trunk turtle. The first is considered the best as an 
 article of food, in which capacity it is well known to most 
 epicures. It approaches the shores, and enters the bays, inlets, 
 and rivers, early in the month of April, after having spent the 
 winters in the deep waters. It deposits its eggs in convenient 
 places, at two different times, in May, and once again in June. 
 The first deposit is the largest, and the last the least, the total 
 quantity being at an average about two hundred and forty. 
 The hawk-billed turtle, whose shell is so valuable as an article 
 of commerce, being used for various purposes in the arts, is the 
 next with respect to the quality of its flesh. It resorts to the 
 outer keys only, where it deposits its eggs in two sets, first in 
 July and again in August, although it crawls the beaches much 
 earlier in the season, as if to lool: for a safe place. The average 
 number of its eggs is about three hundred. The logger-head 
 visits the Tortugas in April, and lays from that period until 
 late in June three sets of eggs, each set averaging a hundred 
 and seventy. The trunk turtle, which is sometimes of an 
 enormous size, and which has a pouch like a pelican, i-eachos 
 the shores latest. The shell and fish are so soft that one may 
 push the finger into them almost as into a lump of butter. 
 This species is therefore considered as the least valuable, and 
 indeed is seldom eaten, unless by the Indians, who ever alert 
 when the turtle season commences, first carry off the eggs 
 which it lays in the season, and afterwards catch the turtles 
 themselves. The average number of eggs which it lays at two 
 sets may be three hundred and fifty. 
 
 "The logger-head and the trunk turtles are the least cautious 
 in choosing the places in which to deposit their eggs, whereas 
 the two other species select the wildest and most secluded spots. 
 The green turtle resorts either to the shores of the Maine, 
 between Cape Sable and Cape Florida, or enters Indian, Halifax, 
 and other large rivers or inlets, from which it makes its retreat 
 as speedily as possible, and l)otake,s itself to the open soa. 
 
3ding-places of 
 mt many other 
 the mainland. 
 L by the names 
 ger-head turtle, 
 the best as an 
 :nown to most 
 iie bays, inlets, 
 ving spent the 
 ( in convenient 
 again in .Tune, 
 least, the total 
 h"ed and forty, 
 le as an article 
 the arts, is the 
 b resorts to the 
 two sets, first in 
 } beaches much 
 3. The average 
 he logger-head 
 lat period until 
 ging a hundred 
 metimes of an 
 )elican, reaches 
 
 that one may 
 amp of butter, 
 t valuable, and 
 who ever alert 
 off the eggs 
 tch the turtles 
 
 1 it lays ttt two 
 
 least cautious 
 eggs, whereas 
 secluded spelts. 
 of the Maine, 
 'ndian, Halifax, 
 ikes its retreat 
 the open soa. 
 
 TURTLES DEPOSITING THEIR EGGS. 
 
 219 
 
 Great numbers, however, are killed by the turtlers and Indians, 
 as well as by various species of carnivorous animals, as cougars, 
 lynxes, bears, and wolves. The hawk-bill, which is still more 
 wary, and is always the most difficult to surprise, keeps to the 
 sea islands. All the species employ nearly the same method 
 in depositing their eggs in the sand, and as I have several times 
 observed them in the act, I am enabled to present you with a 
 circumstantial account of them. 
 
 " On first nearing the shores, and mostly on ''ne calm moon- 
 light nights, the turtle raises her head above the water, being 
 still distant thirty or forty yards from the beach, looks around 
 her, and attentively examines the objects on the shore. Should 
 she observe nothing likely on the shore to disturb her intended 
 operations, she emits a lend hissing sound, by which such of her 
 enemies as are unaccustomed to it are startled, and so are apt 
 to remove to another place, although unseen by her. Should 
 she hear any noise, or perceive indications of danger, she 
 instantly sinks and goes off to a con ■"; vable distance; but 
 should everything be quiet, she advances slowly towards the 
 beach, crawls over it, her head raised to the full stretch of her 
 neck, and when she has reached a place fitted for her purpose 
 she gazes all romid in silence. Finding 'all well,' she pro- 
 ceeds to form a hole in the sand, which she effects by removing 
 it from under her body with her hind flappers, scooping it out 
 with so much dexterity that the sides seldom if ever fall in. 
 The sand is raised alternately with eacli flapper, as with a large 
 ladle, until it has accumulated behind her, when supporting 
 herself with her head and fore part on the ground fronting her 
 body, she, with a spring from each flapper, sends the sand 
 around her, scattering it to the distance of several feet. In 
 tliis manner the hole is dug to the deptli of eighteen inches, or 
 sometimes more than two feet. This labour I have seen per- 
 formed in the r'^.ort period of nine minutes. The eggs are tlien 
 dropped one by one, and disposed in regular layers to tlie 
 number of a hundred and fifty, or sometimes two hundred. Tlie 
 whole time spent in this part of the operation may be about 
 twenty minutes. She now scrapes the loose sand back over the 
 eggs, and so levels liiem and smooths the surface, that few 
 persons on seeing the sjiot could imagine anything had been 
 
r .^' 
 
 220 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUnON. 
 
 
 % 'Si 
 
 u 
 u 
 
 done to it. This accomplishod to her mind, slio retreats to the 
 \ liter with nil possible despateh, leaving the hatehing of tho 
 eggs to tlie heat of the sand. When a turtle, a logger-head for 
 "xaniple, is in the act of dropping Ler egg, she will not mov(>, 
 although one should go up to her, or e\en seat, himself on her 
 baek, for it seems that at this moment she finds it necessary to 
 proceed at all events, and is unaUe to intermit her labour. 
 The moment it is finished, however, off' she starts, nor would it 
 then be possible for one, unless he were as strong as Hercules, to 
 turn her over and secure her. To upset a turtle on the shore 
 one is obliged to fall on his kne(^s, and placing his shoulder 
 behind lier fore-arm, gradually raise her up by pusliing with 
 great force, and then with a jerk throw her over. Sometimes it 
 recpiires the united strength of several men to accomplish this, 
 and if the turtle should bo of v^ry great size, as often happens 
 on that coast, even handspikes are enij'loyed. Some turtleis 
 are so daring as to swim up to them while lying asleep (m the 
 surface of the water, and turn them over in their own element, 
 when, however, a boat must be at hand to enable them to secure 
 their prize. Few turtles can bite beyond th.e reach of their 
 fore-legs, and few when they are once turned over, can, without 
 assistance, regain their natural position. Jhit notwithstanding 
 this, their flappers are generally secured by ropes, so as to 
 render their escape imi»ossible. Persons who search for turtle 
 eggs ore provided with a light stiff cane or gun-rod, with which 
 they go along the shores, prnl'-ng the sand near the tracks of 
 the animal, which, however, cannot always be seiai on account 
 of the winds and heavy rains that often obliterate them. The 
 nests are discovered not oidy by men but also by beasts of prey, 
 and the eggs are collected or destroyed on the spot in great 
 numbers. 
 
 " On certain parts of the shore hundreds of turtles are know n 
 to deposit their eggs within the space of a mile. They form a 
 new hole each time they lay, and the second is generally dujj,' 
 near the first, as if the animal were quite unconscious of what 
 had befallen it. It will readily be understood that the numerous 
 eggs !.^eeu in a turtle on cutting it up could not be all laid 
 tlie same season. The whole number deposited by an individual 
 in one summer may amount to four hundred ; whereas if the 
 
) retreats to tho 
 
 hateliin}; of tho 
 
 lo<jj<^or-iiea<l for 
 
 will not mov(>, 
 himself on lior 
 s it necessary to 
 mit her labour. 
 rts, nor would it 
 ^ as Horcules, to 
 lo on the shoro 
 ng his slioulder 
 y pushing with 
 '. Sonietimos it 
 accomplish this, 
 IS often happens 
 
 Some turtlers 
 J asleep on the 
 »ir own element, 
 e them to seeuro 
 
 reach of their 
 er, can, without 
 notwithstanding 
 I'opes, so as to 
 ieareh for turtle 
 ■rod, with which 
 r the tracks of 
 am on account 
 ite them. The 
 
 beasts of prey, 
 
 spot in great 
 
 rtles are known 
 They form a 
 enerally dug 
 inscious of what 
 t the numerous 
 lot be all laid 
 y an individual 
 whereas if the 
 
 SPEED OF THE TURTLE. 
 
 221 
 
 S^ 
 
 animal bo caught on or near her nest, as I have witnessed, the re- 
 maining eggs, all small, without shells, and as it were threaded 
 like so many beads, exceed three thousantl. In an instance 
 where I found that number, the turtle weighed nearly four 
 hundred pounds. 
 
 " The young, soon after being hatched, and when yet scarcely 
 larger than a dollar, scratch their way through their sandy 
 covering, and immediately betake themselves to the water. 
 The food of the green turtle consists chiefly of marine plants, 
 more especially the grass-wrack (Zostera marina), which they cut 
 near the roots, to procure the most tender and succulent parts. 
 Their feeding-ground.-;, as I have elsewhere said, are esisily dis- 
 covered by floating masses of these plants on the flats or along 
 the shores to which they resort. The hawk-billed species feeds 
 on seaweeds, crabs, and various kinds of siiell-fish and fishes ; 
 the logger-head mostly on the fish of conch-shells, of large size, 
 which they are enabled, by means of their powerful beak, to 
 o"nsh to [)ieces with apparently as much ease as a man cracks 
 a walnut. One which was brought on board the Marion, and 
 plat'ed near the fluke of one of her anchors, made a deep in- 
 dentation in that hammered piece of iron that quite surprised me. 
 The trunk-turtle feeds on mollusca, fish, Crustacea, sea-urchins, 
 and various marine plants. All the species move through the 
 water with surprising speed ; but the green and hawk-billed in 
 particular remind you by their celerity, and the ease of their 
 motions, of the progress of a bird in the air. It is therefore no 
 easy matter to strike one with a spear, and yet this is often 
 done by an accomplished turtler. While at Key West and 
 other islands on the coa.st, where I made the observations here 
 presented to you, I chan(;ed to have need to purchase some 
 turtles to feed my friends on board the La 'y of the Green 
 Jfiintle — not my friends, h"r gallant ofiijers, or the brave tars 
 who formed her crew, for all of them had already been satiated 
 with turtle soup ; but my friends the herons, of which I had a 
 goodly nuiaber in coops, intending to carry them to John Bach- 
 man of Charleston, and other persons for whom I felt a sincere 
 regard. So I went to a ' crawl,' accompanied by Dr. llenjamin 
 Strobel, to inquire about prices, when to my surprise I found 
 the smaller the turtles, ' above ten pounds weight,' the dearer 
 
222 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 
 m 
 
 tbey wore, and that I could have purchased one of the logger- 
 head kind, that weighed more than seven lumdn.'d pounds, for 
 little more money than another of oidy thirty pounds. 
 
 " While I gazed on the turtle 1 thought of the soups the con- 
 tents of its shell would have furnished for a lord-mayor's dinner, 
 of the numerous eggs which its swollen body contained, and of 
 the curious carriage which might bo made of its shell — a car in 
 which Venus herself might sail over the Caribbean Sea, pro- 
 vided her tender doves lent their aid in tlrawing the divinity, 
 and prov'ded no shark or hurricano came to upset it. The 
 turtler assured me that, altliough the great monster was in 
 fact better meat than any other of a less size, there was no 
 disposing of it, unless indeed it had been in his power to have 
 sent it to some very distant market. I would willingly have 
 purchased it, but I knew that if killed the flesh could not keep 
 much longer than a day, and on that account I bought eight or 
 ten small ones, which ' my friends ' really relished exceedingly, 
 and which seryed to support them for a long time. Turtles 
 such as I have spoken of are caught in various ways on the 
 coasts of the Floridas, or in estuaries or rivers. Some tiu'tlers 
 are in the habit of setting great nets across the entrance of 
 streams, so as to answer the purpose either at the flow or at the 
 ebb of the waters. These nets are formed of very large meshes, 
 into which the turtles partially get entangled. Others harpoon 
 them in the usual manner ; but in my estimation, no method is 
 equal to that employed by i\Ir. Egan, the pilot, of Indian Isle. 
 
 " That extraordhiary turtler had an iron instrument which he 
 called a ' peg,' and which at each end had a point, not unlike^ 
 what naihnakers call a brad, it being four-cornei ?d, but Hattish, 
 and of a shape somewhat resembling the beak of an ivory-billed 
 woodpecker, together with a neck and shoidder. Between the 
 two shoulders of this instrument a fine tough line, lifty or more 
 fathoms in length, was fastened by one end, being passed through 
 a hole in the centre of the peg, and the line iNelf was carefully 
 coiled up and placed in a convenient part oi" the canoe. Gnu 
 extremity of this peg enters a sheath of iron that loosely 
 attaches it to a long wooden spear, until a turtle has been 
 pierced through the shell by the other extremity. He of the 
 canoe paddles away as silently as possible whenever ho espies 
 
Sl'KAUINC} TUHTLES. 
 
 223 
 
 of tho logger- 
 ■ed pounds, lor 
 iiuls. 
 
 soups the cou- 
 nayor's diuncr, 
 utained, aud of 
 sliell — a car in 
 bean Sea, ])ro- 
 5 tho flivinity, 
 upset it. Tlie 
 onster was in 
 , there was no 
 power to have 
 willingly have 
 could not keep 
 •ought eight or 
 :d exceedingly, 
 time. Turtles 
 s ways on the 
 
 Some turtlers 
 le entrance of 
 I flow or at the 
 
 large meshes, 
 )thers harpoon 
 , no method is 
 
 Indian Isle, 
 nent which ho 
 int, not unlik(^ 
 d, but flatfish, 
 an ivory-billed 
 Between the 
 
 , liftv or more 
 :)assed through 
 
 was carefully 
 canoe. One 
 that loosely 
 
 rtle has been 
 
 . He of the 
 
 vi'r he espies 
 
 a turtle basking on tho water, until he gets *vithin a distance of 
 ten or twelve yards, when he throws the spear so as to hit tho 
 animal about tho place which an entomologist woidd choose, 
 were it a largo insect, for pinning to a piece of cork. As soon 
 as the turtle is struck, the wooden handle separates from the 
 peg, in consequonco oi' the looseness of its attachment. The 
 smart of the wound urges on tho animal as if distrPvited, and it 
 appears that the longer the peg remains in its shell, the more 
 firmly fastened it is, so great a pressure is exercised upon it 
 by the shell >i the turtle, which being suffered to run like a 
 whale, soon oecomcs fatigued, and is secured by hauling in the 
 lino with great care. In this manner, as the pilot informed mo 
 eight hundred groen turtles were caught by one man in twelve 
 months. 
 
 " Each turtle has its * crawl,' which is a square wooden build- 
 ing or pen, formed of logs, which are so far separated as to allow 
 the tide to pass freely through, and stand erect in the mud. 
 The turtles are placed in this enclosure, fed, and kept there till 
 sold. There is, however, a circumstance relating to their habits 
 which I cannot omit, although I have it not from my own ocular 
 evidence, but from report. When I was in Florida several of 
 the turtlers assured me, that any turtle taken from the deposit- 
 ing ground, and carried on the deck of a vessel several hundred 
 miles, would, if then let loose, certainly be met with at the same 
 spot, either immediately after, or in the following breeding 
 season. Should this prove true, and it certainly may, how 
 much will be enhanced the belief of the student in the uni- 
 formity and solidity of nature's arrangements, when he finds 
 that the turtle, like a migratory bird, returns to the same 
 locality, with perhaps a delight similar to that experienced 
 by tho traveller who, after visiting differeni, countries, once 
 more returns to the bosom of his cherished family." 
 
I 
 
 I 'J I 
 
 224 
 
 r.IFE OF AUDUnON. 
 
 Ml, •'« 
 
 If:'" >.. 
 
 Si! ': 
 
 'I; ^ 
 
 if 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 In Ameiuca : Ei'isode in New Biiunswuk. 
 
 In tlie beginning of August, Audubon, nccompanicd by hia wifo 
 and two eon ;, went on a journey to the State of Maine, to 
 examine the birds in the most unfrequented parts; and the 
 following episodes contain the naturalist's own summary of that 
 visit. ^J'hey travelled in a private conveyance through Maine, 
 going towards the Bi-itish provinces, and the country was ex- 
 plored at leisure as they travelled. 
 
 Journey in New Brunswick. 
 
 " The morning after that we had spent with Sir Archibald 
 Campbell and his delightful family, saw us proceeding along the 
 shores of St. John's lliver in the British province of New liruns- 
 wick. As we passed the government liouse our hearts bade its 
 generous inmates adieu ; and as we left Frederickton behind, 
 the recollection of the many acts of kindness which we had 
 received from its inhabitants came powerfully on our minds. 
 Slowly advancing over tlie surface of the translucent stream, we 
 still fancied our ears saluted by the melodies of the unrivalled 
 band of the 43rd Regiment. In short, \\ itli the remembrance of 
 the kindness experienced, the feeling of expectations gratified, 
 the hope of adding to our knowledge, and the possession ol' 
 health and vigour, wo were luxuriating in happiness. The 
 Favourite, the bark in which we were, contained not only my 
 family, but nearly a score and_a half of individuuLi of all 
 
THK ST. JOHN'S WWVAX. 
 
 225 
 
 (loscriptions ; ho that tho erovvdcMl stato of licr caln'n soon bofjan 
 to prove rutluM' tlisagreoablo. Tho bout itsi'lf was a mere seow, 
 (•oiniuaii(kHl by a person of rather uncouth aspcet and rudo 
 manners. Two sorry nags he had iiiHtened to the end of a kdijj; 
 tow-lino, on tho nearer of whieh rodo a negi-o yontli h>ss tluin 
 half elad, with a long switch in one hand and the joined bridles 
 in the other, striving with all his might to urge them on at the 
 rate of something more than two miles an hour. How fortunate 
 it is for one to possess a little hnov ledge of a true traveller ! 
 Following tho advice of a good, and somewhat aged one, we had 
 provided ourselves with a large basket, which was not altogether 
 ('mi)ty when we reached tho end of our agreeable excursion. 
 Here and there the shores of the river were beautiful ; the space 
 between it and the undulating hills tliat bounded the jirospect 
 being highly cultivated, while now and then its abrupt and rocky 
 banks assumed a most picturesque a[)pearance. Although it 
 was late in September, tlie mowers were still engaged in cutting 
 the grass, and the gardens of the farmers showed patches of 
 green peas. The apples were yet green, and the vegetation in 
 general reminded us that we were in a northern latitude. 
 Gradually and slowly we proceeded, until in the afternoon we 
 landed to exchange our jaded horses. We saw a house on an 
 eminence, with groujjs of i)eoplo assembled around it, but no 
 dinner could be obtained, because, as the landlord told us, an 
 election was going on. So the basket was hud recourse to, and 
 on the green sward we refreshed ourselves with its contents. 
 This done, we returned to the scow, and resumed our stations. 
 As is usual iu such cases, in every part of the world that I have 
 visited, our second set of horses was worse tliun tho first. 
 However, on we went ; but to tell you how often the tov -line 
 gave way woidd not b(^ more amusing to you than it was annoy- 
 ing to us. Once our commander was in consequence plunged 
 into the stream, but alter some exertion he succeeded in gaining 
 his gallant baik, when ho consoled himself by giving utterance 
 to a volley of blasphemies, which it would ill become me to 
 rcfpeat, as it would bo disagreeable to you to hear. We slept 
 somewhere that nii^ht : it does not suit mv views to tell vou 
 wheie. Before day returned to smile on the Favourite, we 
 proc<v'dod. Some rapids we came to, when every one, glad to 
 
 Q 
 
k 
 
 li 
 
 22(! 
 
 MPK OF AITDUnON. 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 '«.^! 
 
 mh 
 
 
 
 assiHt liiT, louiiod on Hhorc, and liu|j:fi;(Ml a la cordelle. Homo 
 miles furtlior wo luissod a cnrious patunuit, formed by tlio watei-H 
 of the Pakiok(». 
 
 "There Sambo h'd ]m steeds np lh(i ni(h's of a high bank, 
 ulien, U) ! tho whoh' party came tnmblini;- down like so numy 
 hogsheads of tobaceo rolled from a store-honse to the banks of 
 tho Ohio. He at the steering oar, * Hoped the black rascal had 
 broken his neck,' and coiigratnlated himself in tho same breath 
 for the safety of his horses, which presently got on their feet. 
 Sambo, however, alert as an In lian chief, leaped on the naked 
 back of one, and, showing his teeth, langhed at his nmster's 
 curses. Shortly after this, wo found our bout v(>ry snugly 
 secured on the top of a rock, midway in the stream, just op- 
 posite tho mouth of Eel River. Next day at noon — none injured, 
 but all ehop-falh'n — wo wore lauded at Woodstock Village, yet 
 in its infancy. After dining there, we procured a cart and an 
 excellent driver, and pror'(,'eded along an execrable road towards 
 Houlton, in Maine, glad enough, after all our mishaps, at finding 
 ourselves in our own country. But before 1 bid farewell to the 
 beautiful river of St. John, 1 must tell you that its navigation 
 seldom exceeds (;iglit months each y<'ar, the passage during the 
 rest being perfor.ned on the ice, of which we wcu-i' told that la.st 
 season there was an unusual quantity ; so much indeed as to 
 accumulate, by being jammed at particular spots, to tho heiglit 
 of neai'ly fifty feet above tho ordinary hn'el of the river, and 
 that when it broke loose in tlie spring the crash was awful. All 
 the low grounds along the river were suddenly Hooded, and ( ven 
 tho elevated plain on which Frederickton stands was covered 
 to the depth of four f(^et. Fortunately, however, as on tlie 
 greater streams of the Western and Southern districts, such an 
 occurrence seldom takes place. 
 
 " Major ('larke, commander of tho United States garrison, 
 received us m ith remarkable kindness. The next day was s[)ont 
 in along, though fruitless, ornitliological excursion ; for althounh 
 we were aecomiianied by ollicers and men from tho garrison, 
 not a bird did any of our jiarty procure that was of any use to 
 us. We remained a few days, however ; after which, hiring a 
 cart, two horses, and a driver, we proceeded in the direction of 
 Bangor. Houlton is a neat village, consisting of some lil'ty 
 
KUOM llANGOll TO IIOULTON. 
 
 227 
 
 'a cordelU. Some 
 mod by tlio wuIc'Ih 
 
 8 of II liigli I'Hiik, 
 
 Dwn like ho many 
 
 10 to tho banks of 
 
 L3 black riisoal bad 
 
 1 tho saiiK! breath 
 
 fjjot on thoii' foot. 
 
 iped on tho naked 
 
 d at his master's 
 
 boat very 8im<:;ly 
 
 Htrcani, just op- 
 
 rxtn — nono injured, 
 
 Istoek ViUiige, yet 
 
 lived a cart and an 
 
 rablo road towards 
 
 iiishaps, at findinji; 
 
 bid farewell (o the 
 
 [hat its navigation 
 
 passage during the 
 
 ere told that last 
 
 ueli indeed as to 
 
 )uts, to the height 
 
 of the river, and 
 
 was awful. All 
 
 loodcd, and f ven 
 
 luids was covered 
 
 wever, as on the 
 
 districts, such an 
 
 States gjirrison, 
 wt day was 8[)eut 
 ow ; for although 
 •om tho garrison, 
 ras of any use to 
 r which, hiring a 
 
 tho direction of 
 vjf of some lilty 
 
 lu)URes. The fort is well situated, and coniniands a fine view of 
 Mars Hill, which is ul»out thirteen miles distnnt. A custotn- 
 houso has been erecte I here, the place being on tli(> houndary 
 lino of the United States and the Uritish jtrovinces. 'I'he road, 
 which was (Mit by the soldie 's of this garrison, from jiiingor to 
 HoiUton, through tho forests, is at this moment a line turnpike 
 of great l»readth, almost straight in its whr)l(' length, and per- 
 haps the best row in th(! Union. It was incomplete, however, 
 for some miles, so thnt our travelling over that portion was slow 
 and disagreeable. The rain, which fell in torrents, reduced tin* 
 newly-raised eartli to a complete bed of mud ; tind at ono time 
 our horses became so completely mired that, had we not been 
 extricated by two oxen, wo must hav(( spent the night near tho 
 spot. Jogging along at a very slow pace, we were overtaken by 
 a gay waggoner, who had excellent horses, two of which a little 
 'siller' induced him to Join to ours, and we xre taken to a 
 tavern at tho 'cross roads,* where wo spent the ni^ht in 
 comfort. While sup[)er was preparing, I made in<piiry re- 
 specting birds, quadrupeds, and lishes, and was pleased to hear 
 that all of these animals abounded in tho neighbourhood. 
 Deer, bears, trouts, and grouse, were quite plentiful, as was 
 tho great grey owl. When we resumed our journey next 
 morning Nature disi^layed all her loveliness, and autumn, 
 with her mellow tints, her glowing fruits, and her rich fields of 
 corn, smiled in placid beauty. Many of tho fields had net yd 
 been reaped ; the fruits of the forests and orchards hung cluster- 
 ing around us ; and as wo came in view of the Penobscot Kiver, 
 our hearts thrilled with joy. Its broad trans[)arent waters here 
 spread out tln^ir unruiHcd surface, there danced along the rnpids, 
 while canoes fdled with Indians swiftly glided in every direc- 
 tion, raising before them tho timorous watfU'fowl, that had 
 already flocked in from tho north. jMountains, which you well 
 know are indispensable in a beautiful landscape, reared their 
 majestic crests in the distance. The Canada jay leaped gaily 
 from branch to twig ; the kingfisher, as if vox(>d at being 
 suddenly surprised, rattled loudly as it swiftly flew off; and the 
 fish-hawk and eagle spread their broad wings over the waters. 
 All around was beautiful, and we gazed on the sc(me with 
 delif);ht as, seated on a verdant bank, we refreshed our frann^s 
 
 q2 
 
i 
 
 ( 
 
 228 
 
 TJFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 »;'•» » 
 
 I t: 
 
 from our replenished stores. A few rare bii'ds were pii)^nred 
 here, and tlie rest of the road bai'ng level and firm, we trotted 
 on at a good pace for several lionrs, the Pe)iobscot keeping 
 Ci npany with ns. Now we came to a deep creek, of which the 
 bridge was undergoing repaii's, and the people saw our vehicle 
 approach with much siirpriso. They, however, assisted us with 
 pleasure, by placing a few logs across, along which our horses, 
 one after the other, were carefully led, and the cart afterwards 
 carried. These good fellows were so averse to our reconip(>nsing 
 them for their labour that, after some altercation, we were 
 obliged absolutely to force what we deemed a suitable reward 
 upon them. Next day we continued our joarney along the 
 Penobscot, the country changing its aspect at every mile ; and 
 when M'e first descried Old Town, that village of saw-mills 
 looked like an island covered with manufoctories. The people 
 here are noted for their industry and perseverance, and any 
 one poss« wing a mill, and attending to his saws ani. tlie float- 
 ing of the timber into his dams, is sure to obtain a competonicy 
 in a few years, 
 
 " Speculations in land covered witli pine, lying to the north of 
 thi;^ place, are carried on to a great extont, and to discover a 
 good tract of such ground many a miller of Old Town under- 
 takes long journeys. Reader, with your leave, I will here 
 introduce one of them. 
 
 " Good luck brought us into acquaintance with Mr. Gillies, 
 whom we hapjiened to meet in the course of our travels, as ho 
 was returning fiom an exploring tour. About the first of 
 August he formed a party of sixteen persons, each carryiup; 
 a knapsack and an ax(\ Their provisons consisted of two 
 hundred and fifty pounds of ]iilot bread, one hundred and fifty 
 pounds of salted pork, four pounds of tea, two large loaves of sugar, 
 and some salt. They embarked in light canoes, twelve miles 
 north of I'aiigor, and i'ollowed the Penobscot as far as ^^'aHsatll' 
 quoik Eiver, a branch leading to the north-west, until tliov 
 ri^ached the Seboois Lakes, the principal of which lie in a 
 line, witli sliort portages between them. Still proceeding: 
 Tiorth-west, they navigated these lakes, and then turning west. 
 carried th(>ir canoes to tlie great lake * ]]aanichenunsgamook;' 
 tlieiicc north to ' Wallagliasquegantook ' Lake; thou aloii.ir 
 
LOOKING FOU "LUMBER LANDS." 
 
 22i» 
 
 :1s were pi«)f'nrcd 
 1 firm, we trotted 
 '(>)iobscot keeping; 
 •eok, of whicli tlio 
 i saw ovir veliiclo 
 V, assisted iia with 
 which onr horses, 
 e eart afterwards 
 our recompensing 
 srcation, we were 
 a suitable reward 
 o.n-ney along the 
 ;; e\ery mile ; and 
 llage of saw-mills 
 ries. The people 
 everanee, and any 
 laws ami the float- 
 •tain a competency 
 
 ng to the nortli of 
 and to discover a 
 Old Town under- 
 >ave, I will hero 
 
 with Mr. Gillies, 
 our travels, as he 
 30ut the first of 
 ns, each carryiiip; 
 ■onsisted of two 
 uindred and fifty 
 ■ge loaves of sugar, 
 lees, twelve miles 
 IS far as ^^'assatil• 
 -west, until thoy 
 ' which lie in a 
 Still procecfiiiVJ: 
 len turning west. 
 chenunsgamook;' 
 l<e ; thon idoufr 
 
 a small stream to the upper • Umsaskiss ' Pond, when tln;y 
 reached the Alhugush Kiver, which leads into the St. John's, in 
 about latitude -17° .')'. Many portions of that country had not 
 been visited before even by the Indians, who assured jMr. Gillies 
 of this fiict. They continued their travels down the St. John's 
 to the grand falls, where they met with a portage of half a 
 mile, and, having reached Mednx-mekcag Creek, a little above 
 Woodstock, the party walked to Houlton, having travelled 
 twelve hundred miles, and described almost an oval over the 
 country by the time they returned to Old Town on the 
 Penobscot. While anxiously looking for ' lumber lands,' they 
 ascended the eminences around, then climbed the tallest trees, 
 and, by means of a great telescope, inspected the pine woods in 
 ^he distance. And such excellent judges arc these persons <>f 
 the value of the timber which they thus observe, when i' is 
 situated at a convenient distance from water, that they never 
 afterwards forget the diflerent spots at all worthy of their 
 attention. They had observed only a few birds and quadrupeds, 
 tlu! latter principally porcupines. The borders of the lakes 
 and rivers afforded them fruits of various sorts, and abundance 
 of cranberries, while the uplands yielded plenty of wild white 
 onions and a species of black plum. Some of the party con- 
 tinued their journey in canoes down the St. John's, ascended 
 Eel Iiiver, and the lake of the same name to JIatunemheag 
 Kiver, due south-west of the St. John's, and, after a few portages, 
 fell into the Penobscot. I had made arrangements to accom- 
 pany Mr. Gillies on a journey of this kind, when 1 judged it 
 would be more interesting, as well as useful to me, to visit tiie 
 distant country of J^abrador. 
 
 "The road which we followed fr»jm Old Town to Bangor was 
 literally covered with Penobscot Indians returning from mark'et. 
 On reaching the latter beautiful town, we found very comfort- 
 table lodgings in an excellent hotel, and next day proceeded 
 by the mail to Boston." 
 
 The following chapter gives some further knowledge of 
 what i\udubon saw during his journey (hrough the interior 
 of j\Iaine. 
 
230 
 
 JilFK OK AUDUnoN. 
 
 **«** 
 
 CIIArTER XL. 
 
 Episodks in Maink: 'J'he Maine Lumdkrmkn. 
 
 " TnK men who are employed in cuttiiif^ down the trees, and 
 couveyiiif^ the logs to the saw-mills or the places for shijiping, 
 are, in the State of Maine, called ' lumberers.' Their labours 
 may be said to begin before winter has commenced, and, while 
 the ground is yet uncovered by any great depth of snow, they 
 leave their homes to proceed to the interior of the pine forests, 
 which in that part of the country are truly magnificent, and 
 betake themselves to certain places already well known to them. 
 Their provisions, axes, saws, and other necessary articles, to- 
 gether with the provender for their cattle, are conveyed by oxen 
 vn heavy sleds. Almost at the commencement of their march 
 lliey are obliged, to enter the woods ; and they have frequently 
 to cut a way for themselves for considerable spaces, as the 
 ground is often covered with the decaying trunks of immense 
 trees, which have fallen either from age or in consequence of 
 accidental burnings. These trunks, and the undergrowth which 
 lies entangled in their tops, render many places almost impass- 
 able even to men on foot. Over miry ponds they are sometimes 
 forced to form causeways, this being, under all the circum- 
 stances, the easiest mode of reaching the opposite side. Then, 
 reader, is the time for witnessing the exertions of their fine 
 large cattle. No rods do tlieir drivers use to pain their flanks ; 
 no oaths or imprecations are ijver heard to fall from the lips of 
 these most industrious and temperate men ; for in them, as 
 
ir.IlMKX. 
 
 iwn the trees, and 
 laces for shipping, 
 •s.' Their labours 
 nenced, and, while 
 3pth of snow, they 
 )f the pine forests, 
 magnificent, and 
 11 known to them, 
 ssary articles, to- 
 conveyed by oxen 
 it of their march 
 y have frequently 
 e spaces, as the 
 runks of immense 
 II consequence of 
 ndergrowth which 
 es almost impass- 
 ley are sometimes 
 all the circum- 
 osite side. Then, 
 ons of their fine 
 pain their flanks ; 
 1 from the lips of 
 for in them, as 
 
 TIIEA'J'MKNT OF THE OXEN. 
 
 231 
 
 indeed in most of the inhabitants of our Eastern States, educa- 
 tion and habit have tempered the passions and reduced the 
 moral constitution to a state of harmony — nay, the sobriety 
 that exists in many of the villages of Maine I have often con- 
 sidered as carried to excess, for on asking for brandy, rum, or 
 whiskey, not a drop could I obtain ; and it is probable there 
 was an equal lack of spirituous liquors of every other kin<l. Now 
 and then I saw some good old wines, but tliey were always 
 (li'ank in careful moderation, lint to return to the management 
 of the oxen. Why, reader, the lumberers speak to them as if 
 tliev were rational beings : few words seem to suffice, and their 
 wliole strength is appliod to the labour, as if in gratitude to 
 those who treat them with so much gentleness aud humanity. 
 
 " While i)resent, on more than one occasion, at wliat Americans 
 call - ploughing matches,' which they have annually in many 
 of the States, I have been highly gratified, and in particular at 
 one — of which I still have a strong recollection — and which 
 took place a few miles from the fair and hospitable city of 
 l)Oston. There I saw fifty or more ploughs drawn by as many 
 pairs of oxen, which performed their work with so nuieh accu- 
 racy and regularity, without the infliction of whip or rod, but 
 merely guided by the verbal mandates of the ploughmen, that 
 I was perfectly astonished. After surmounting all obstacles, 
 the lumberers, with their stock, arrive at the spot which they 
 have had in view, aud immediately commence building a camp. 
 Tlu^ trees around soon fall under the blows of their axes, and, 
 before many days have elapsed, a low habitation is reared and 
 lifted within for the accommodation of their cattle, while their 
 provender is secured on a kind of loft, covered with broad 
 sliiiiglcs or boards. Then their own cabin is put u[); rough 
 bodstrads, nuinufactunnl on the spot, are fixed in the corners ; 
 a cliimney, composed of a frame of sticks plastered with mud, 
 leads away the smoke ; the skins of bears or deer, with some 
 blankets, form their bedding; and around the walls are hung 
 their changes of hoinesiam ck)thing, guns, and various neces- 
 saries of life. M'.niy prefer spending tlie night on the swei't- 
 scented hay and v'orn blades of their cattle, which are laid on 
 the gnmnd. All arranged within, the luinberei's si't around 
 their camp their ' dead falls,' large 'steel tra{)s,' and 'spring 
 

 ::32 
 
 LIFK 01'^ AlJDUnON. 
 
 ' i 
 
 1 ; 
 
 I i* 
 
 
 ?^' 
 
 ll^^i 
 
 
 '<M 
 
 
 guns,' in suitable places to procure some of the bears that ever 
 prowl around such establisliments. Now the heavy clouds of 
 November, driven by the nortliern blast, pour down the snow 
 in feathery flakes. The Avinter has fairly set in, and seldom do 
 the sun's gladdening rays ftxll on the woodcutter's hut. In warm 
 flannels his body is enveloped, tlie skin of a racoon covers his 
 head and brow, his moose-skin leggings reach tlie girdle that 
 secures them round his waist, while on broad mocassins, or 
 snow-shoes, he stands from the earliest dawn till night hacking 
 away at the majestic pines that for a century past have em- 
 bellished the forest. The fall of these valuable trees no longer 
 resounds on the ground ; and as they tumble here and there, 
 nothing is heard but the rustling and crackling of their branches, 
 their heavy trunks sinking into tlie deep snow. Thousands of 
 large pines thus cut down every winter afford room for the 
 younger trees, whicli spring up profusely to supply the wants 
 of man. "Weeks and weeks have elapsed, the earth's pure 
 white covering has become tliickly and firndy crusted by the 
 increasing intensity of the cold, the fallen trees have all been 
 sawn into measured logs, and the long repose of the oxen has 
 fitted them for hauling them to tlie nearest frozen stream. The 
 ice gradually becomes covered with the accumulating mass of 
 timber, and, their task completed, tlie lumberers wait impatiently 
 for the breaking up of winter. At this period they pass the 
 time in hunting the moose, the deer, and the bear, for the 
 benefit of their wives and children ; and as these men are most 
 excellent woodsmen, great havoc is made among the game ; 
 many skins, sables, martins, and musk rats, they have procured 
 during the intervals of their labour, or under night. The snows 
 are now giving way as the rains descend in torrents, and the 
 lumberers collect their utensils, harness their cattle, and prepare 
 for their return. This they accomplish in safety. From being 
 lumberers, they become millers, and with pleasure each applies 
 the grating file to his saws. Many logs have already readied 
 the dams on the swollen waters of the rushing streams, and the 
 task commences, which is carried on through the summer, of 
 cutting them up into boards. The great heat of the dog-days 
 has parched the ground; every ci'ock has become' a sha]|<n\, 
 except here and there where, in a deej) hole, the salmon and 
 
Fr.OATING TIMBKU. 
 
 233 
 
 the tnnit have found a retreat: the sharp slimy itiiglea of 
 multitudes of rocks project, as if to afford resting-places to tho 
 wood ducks and herons that breed on the borders of these 
 streams. Thousands of ' saw-logs ' remain in every pool, be- 
 neath and above each rapid or fall. The miller's dam has been 
 emptied of its timber, and he must now resort to some ex[)edient 
 to procure a fresh supply. It was my good fortune to witness 
 the method employed for the purpose of collecting the logs 
 that had not reached their destination, and I had the more 
 pleasure that it was seen in company with my little family. 
 I wish, for your sake, reader, that I could describe in an ade- 
 quate manner the scene which I viewed ; but although not so 
 well qualified as I could wish, rely upon it that the desire which 
 I feel to gratify you will induce me to use all my endeavours 
 to give you an idea of it. It was the month of September. 
 
 "At the upper extremity of Der aisville, which is itself a 
 pretty village, are the saw-mills and ponds of the hospitable 
 Judge Lincoln and other persons. The creek that conveys tho 
 logs to these ponds, and which bears the name of the village, 
 is mterrupted in its course by many rapids and narrow embanked 
 gorges. One of the latter is situated about half a mile above 
 the mill-dam, and is so rocky and rugged in the bottom and 
 sides as to preclude the possibility of the trees passing along it 
 at low water, while, as I lonceived, it would have given no slight 
 labour to an army of woodsmen or millers to move the thousands 
 of large logs that had accumulated in it. They lay piled in 
 t'onfused heaps to a great height along au extent of several 
 Imudrod ynrds, and were in some places so close as to have 
 formed a kind of dam. Above tlie gorge there is a large 
 natural reservoir, in which the head waters of the creek settle, 
 while only a small portion of these rii)ple through the gorge 
 below, during the latter weeks of summer and in early autumn, 
 when their streams are at the lowest. At ^lie neck of this 
 basin the lumberers raised a temporary barrier with the refuse 
 of their sawn logs. The boards were planted nearly upright, 
 and supported at their tops by a strong tree extended from side 
 to side (if the creek, which might there be about forty feet in 
 breadth. It was prevented from giving way under the pressure 
 of th(; rising waters by having strong abutments of wood laid 
 
'21U 
 
 lAVK OF AUDUBON. 
 
 yj.-- 
 
 
 ■> ■. 
 it 
 
 >-»(';•; 
 
 ap;ainat its oontro, while (Iio ends of tlioso abutinonts wore 
 socurod by wodfjfoa, which could bo knocked off vvlien lu'oessary. 
 Tlio temporary dam was now thiishcd. Little or no water 
 escaped through the barrier, and tlmt in the cr(^ok above it 
 rose in the course of three weeks to its top, which was about 
 ten feet hip;h, forming a sheet that extended upwards fully a 
 mile from the dam. My family wore invited early one moni- 
 ing to go and witness the extraordinary effect which M'ould be 
 produc(>d by the breaking down of the barrier, and wo all 
 accompanied the lumberers lo the place. Two of the men, on 
 reaching it, threw off their jackets, tied Imndkerchiofs round 
 their heads, and fastened to their bodies a long rope, the end of 
 which was held by three or four others, who stood ready to 
 drag their companions ashore, in case of danger or accident. 
 The two operators, each bearing an axe, walked along the abut- 
 ments, and, at a given signal, knocked out the wedges. A 
 second blow from each sent off the abutments themselvi^s, and 
 the men, leaping with extreme dexterity from one cross log to 
 another, sj)rung to the shore # with almost the quickness of 
 thought. Scarcely had they effected their escajie from the 
 frightful ]ieril that threateniMl them, when the mass of waters 
 burst forth with a horrible uproar. All eyes were beT\t to- 
 wards the huge heaps of logs in the gorge below. The tumult- 
 uous burst of the waters instantly swept away every object that 
 opposed their progress, and rushed in foaming waves among the 
 timber that everywhere blocked up the passage. Presently u 
 slow heavy 'motion was perceived in the mass of logs ; ono 
 might have imagined that some mighty monster lay convul- 
 sively writhing beneath them, struggling, with a fearful energy, 
 to extricate himself from the crushing weight. As the waters 
 rose this movement increased ; the mass of timber extended in 
 all directions, appearing to become more and more entangled 
 each moment ; the logs bounced against each other, thrustiiiir 
 aside, subnuM'ging or raising into the air, those with which they 
 came in contact. It seeuKnl as if they were waging a war ef 
 destruction, such as the ancient authors describe the efforts of 
 the Titans, the foaming of whose wrath might, to the eye of 
 the i)ainter, have been represented by the angry curlings of tlir 
 waters, while the tremulous and nxytid motions of the ]o<^^. 
 
KOUGK OP THE WATKUS. 
 
 '235 
 
 ubutnionts wore 
 f wlion n(>(',08aiiry. 
 ttlo or no wiitcv 
 ,0 crook al)ovo it 
 which was ahont 
 [ upwards fully a 
 I early oiio niorn- 
 , which would l".^ 
 ^rrior, aud wo all 
 svo of tho men, on 
 lullvorchiofs round 
 
 rr vopO, tho C\u\ of 
 
 ho stood ready to 
 tin<2;er or accident. 
 0(1 alonjjj the nbut- 
 t tho \vc(l<>ea. A 
 its theinselv«^s, and 
 in one cross lop; to 
 the quickness of 
 escajio from the 
 ho mass of waters 
 yes wero bent to- 
 low. The tumult- 
 ovory object that 
 ^ waves among the 
 kigo. Presently n 
 iiass of logs; ono 
 blister lay convul- 
 li a fearful energy, 
 it. As the waters 
 limber extended in 
 I more entangled 
 ih other, thrusting 
 ;c with which they 
 |) waging a war of 
 ■i-il)e the eiVorts of 
 l^ht, to tho eye of 
 rry curlings of tlu' 
 bons of the lojjjs. 
 
 which at times n^arcd themselves almost porpendicularly, 
 might by tho poet have boon taken for tho shakings of the con- 
 founded and discomfited giants. Now tho rushing element filled 
 up tho gorge to tho brim. Tiio logs, once under way, rolled, 
 reared, tossed, and tumbled amid tho foam, as they wero carried 
 along. Many of tho smaller trees broke across ; from others, 
 gr(;at splinters were sent up, and all wore in some degree seamed 
 and scarred. Then, in tumultuous majesty, swept ahmg tho 
 mangled wreck : tlu^ current being now increased to such a 
 pitcli, that tho logs, as they were dashed against tho rocky 
 shores, resounded like the report of distant artillery, or tlie 
 angry rumblings of tho thunder. Onward it rolls, the emblem 
 of wreck and ruin, destruction and chaotic strife. It sc(>med to 
 me as if I witnessed the rout of a rash army, surprised, over- 
 whelmtHl, and overthrown : the roar of the camion, tho groans 
 of the dying, and the shouts of the avengers, were thundering 
 through my brain ; and amid tho frightful confusion of tho 
 scene there came over my spirit a melancholy feeling, which 
 Lad not entirely vanished at the end of many days. In a few 
 hours almost all tho timber that had lain heaped in the rocky 
 gorge was Heating in the great pond of the millers, and as wo 
 walked homewards we talkeil of i\ic force of the ivaters." 
 
i 
 
 -7 
 
 ( 
 
 
 " 
 
 
 
 >; 
 
 
 ■ 1 
 
 23(1 
 
 lAVK OV AL:1)U150N. 
 
 
 
 a. 
 
 ^3: 
 
 (;* 
 
 1 fli 
 
 
 CHAJ^TEU XLl. 
 
 Visit to tiik Bay or Fundy. 
 
 While visiting Eastport, Audubon made a trip to tlie Bay of 
 Fundy and some of its neigbbourinf<j islands, in seanth of tlie 
 birds which resort there ; and the following 'lisode is his own 
 graphic account of that journey : — 
 
 "The Bay of Fundy. 
 
 " It was in the month of May that I saiknl in the United 
 States revenue cutter the Swiftsure, engaged in a cruise in the 
 Bay of Fundy. Our sails were quickly unfurled, and spread 
 out to the breeze. 
 
 " The vessel seemed to fly over the liquid element, as the 
 sun rose in full splendour, while tl e clouds that floated here 
 and there formed, with their glowing hues, a rich contrast with 
 the pure azure of the heavens above us. We approached apaco 
 the island of Grand Manan, of which the stupendous cliil's 
 gradually emerged from the deep, with tlie majestic boldness of 
 her noblest native chief. Soon our bark passed beneath its 
 craggy head, covered with trees which, on account of tlio 
 height, seemed scarcely larger than shrubs. Tlie prudent raven 
 spread her pinions, launched from the cliff, and flew away 
 before us ; the golden engle, soaring aloft, moved nuijestically 
 along in wide circles ; the guillemots sat on their eggs upon 
 the shelvy precipices, or, phniging into the water, dived and 
 
WIIITE-IIEAI) ISLAND. 
 
 237 
 
 trij) to tlie Bay of 
 
 , in sean^h of tlio 
 
 •)isode is liis own 
 
 .'(1 in the Unitod 
 in n orniso in tho 
 urlcd, and spread 
 
 xl clement, aa tlio 
 that floated here 
 rieh contrast with 
 approaclied apace 
 stnpcndous cliiVs 
 ajostic boldness of 
 )assed beneath its 
 1 actount of tlio 
 Die prudent raven 
 f, and Hew away 
 loved majestically 
 their eggs upon 
 water, dived and 
 
 roso again at a great distance ; tlio broad-breasted eider duck 
 covered her eggs among tho grassy tnfts ; on a naked rock tho 
 seal lazily basked, its sleek sides glistening in the sunshine ; 
 while shoals of porpoises were swiftly gliding through the wuters 
 around us, showing by their gambols that, although doomed to 
 the deep, their life was not d(Woid of pleasure. Far awny stood 
 the bold shores of Nova Scotia, gradually fading in the distance, 
 of which the grey tints beautifidly relieved the wing-like sails 
 of nn\ny a fishing-bark. Cape after cape, forming oddites and 
 counter-currents far too terrific to be described by a landsman, 
 we passed in succession, until we reached a deep cove near tho 
 shores of White-head Island, which is divided from (J rand 
 Blaiian by a narrow strait, where we anchored seciu'o from every 
 blast that could blow. In a short time we found ourselves 
 under the roof of Captain Frankland, the sole owner of the isle, 
 of which the surface contains about fifteen hundred acres. He 
 received us all with politeness, and gave us permission to seek 
 out its treasures, which we immediately set about doing, for I 
 was anxious to study the habits of certain gulls that breed there 
 in great numbers. As Captain Coolidge, our worthy com- 
 mander, had assured mo, wo found them on their nests on 
 almost every tree of a wood that covered several acres. What 
 a treat, reader, was it to find birds of this kind lodged on fir- 
 trees, and sitting comfortably on their eggs ! 
 
 " Their loud cackling notes led us to their place of resort, 
 and ere long we had satisfactorily observed their habits, and 
 collected as many of themselves and their eggs as we considered 
 sufticient. In our walks we noticed a rat, the only quadruped 
 found in the island, and observed abundance of gooseberries, 
 currants, rasps, strawberries, nnd liuckleberries. Seating our- 
 selves on the summit of the rocks, in view of the vast Atlantic, 
 we spread out our stores and refreshed ourselves with our 
 simple fare. Now we followed the objects of our pursuit 
 through tho tangled woods, now 'urefully picked our steps 
 ovor tlm s[vin'!y i;rouuds. The air was filled with the melodious 
 concerts of birds, and all Nature seemed to smile in quiet 
 enjoyment. We wandered about until the setting sun warned 
 us to depart, when, returning to tlie house of the proprietor, we 
 sat down to an exc<dlent repast, and amused ourselves with 
 

 238 
 
 LTFK OF AUDUnoN. 
 
 1 I 
 
 
 Iff 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 relating unocdotes and forming arrnngonionts for the morrow. 
 Our captain complinientod us on our succoas when we reachcnl 
 the Swiftsnro, and iu duo time wo betook ourselves to our 
 hnninioeks. The next morning, a strange sail appearing in tlio 
 distance, j)reparationa were instantly nuide to pay her com- 
 ninuder a visit. The signal-staft' of ' AVliitc-head iHland' 
 disphiyed the liritish flag, while Captain Frankland and his 
 men stood on the shore, and as we gave our sails to the wind, 
 three hearty cheers filled the air, and wore instantly res[)on(le(l 
 t.' by us. The vessel was soon approached, but all was found 
 right with her, and, squaring our yards, onward we sped, 
 cheerily bounding over the gay billows, until our cai)tain set 
 ns ashore at Eastport. At another time my party wau received 
 on board the revenue cutter's tender, the Fancy, a charniinjf 
 name for so beamil il a craft. We set sail towards evening. 
 The cackling of the ' old wives,' that covered the bay, filled mo 
 with delight, and thousands of gulls and cormorants seemed as 
 "( anxious to pilot ns into 'Head Harbour Bay,' where we 
 anchored for the night. Leaping on the rugged shore, wo 
 made our way to the lighthouse, where we found jMr. Snelling, 
 a good and honest Englishman, from Devonshire. His family 
 consisted of three wild-looking lasses, beautiful, like the most 
 finished productions of Nature. In his lighthouse, snugly en- 
 sconced, he spent his days in ])eacofid forgetfulnoss of the world, 
 subsisting principally on the fish of the bay. When day broke, 
 how delightful it was to see fair Nature open her graceful eye- 
 lids, and present herself arrayed in all that was ri(!hest and 
 purest before her Creiitoi'! Ah! reader, how indelibly aio 
 such moments engraved upon my soul ! with what ardour have 
 I at sueh times gazed around me, full of the desire of hmv^ 
 enabled to comprehend all that I saw! How often have 1 
 longed to converse with the feathered inhabitants of the forest, 
 all of which seemed then intent on offering up th(>ir thindcs to 
 the object of my own adoration ! But the wish could not he 
 gratified, although I now feel satisfied that I have enjoyed as 
 mueh of the wonders and beauties of Nature as it was [)roji('r 
 for me to enjoy. The delightful trills of the winter wren rolled 
 through the iniderwotxl, the hmI squirrel snuud<(;d time willi 
 his chojjs, the loud notes of the robin sounded clearly from tb' 
 
 1 9b. 
 
(.'ATCIlINd WATr-ll FOWL. 
 
 Ii3i» 
 
 tops of tlio troos, tlio rosy grosboak nipped. tlio tondor blossoms 
 of tlio maples, and high overhead tho loons passed in ])iiir8, 
 rapidly wonding their way toward far-distant shores. Would 
 that I could have followi il in their wako! The hour of otir 
 d(>parturo had como, and, as wo sailed up the bay, our pilot — 
 who had been fishing for cod^was taken on board. A few of 
 his fish wore roastcu on a plaiik before tho embors, and formed 
 the principal j)art of our breakfast- Tho breeze was light, and 
 it was nut until afternoon that we arrived at l*oint Leprcaux 
 ]Lirbonr, wliero every one, making choice of his course, went in 
 search of curiosities or provender. Now, reader, tho little 
 harbour in which, if you wish it, wo shall suppose we still are 
 is renowned for a circumstance which I feel much inclined to 
 endeavour to explain to yo\i. Several species of ducks, that in 
 myriads cover tho waters of the Bay of Fundy, are at times 
 destroyed in this particidar spot in a very singular manner. 
 When JiUy has come, all the wnter birds that are no longer 
 capable of reproducing remain, like so many forlorn bachelors 
 and old maids, to renew their plumage along the shores. At 
 the period when these poor birds are unfit for flight, troops of 
 Indians make their appearance in light bark canoes, paddled by 
 their squaws and papooses. They form their flotilla iiito an 
 extended curve, and drive before them the birds ; not in silence, 
 but with simultaneous horrific yells, at the same time beating 
 the surface of the water with their long poles and paddles. 
 Terrified by the noise, the birds swim a long way before them, 
 endeavouring to escape with all their might. Tho tide is high, 
 every cove is filled, and into the one where wo now are thousands 
 of ducks are seen entering. The Indians have ceased to shout, 
 uud the canoes advance side by side. Time passes on, tho tide 
 swiftly recedes as it rose, and there are tlx? birds left on the 
 beach. See with what pleasure each wild inhabitant of tho 
 forest seizes his stick, the squaws ami younglings following with 
 simiUv weapons ! liook at them rushing on their prey, fulling 
 oil the (lisaMed birds, and smashing them with their cudgels, 
 until all are destroyed! In this manner upwards of five 
 hundred wild fowls have often been procured in a few hours. 
 Three pleasant days were spent about Point ]i0pre;uix, wlii'U 
 the Fancy spread her wings to the breeze. In one harbour we 
 
'' li 
 
 240 
 
 MKK OK AirDimON. 
 
 I .1 
 
 1^- 
 
 flHlu'd for hIu'Uh, with ii capitiil drodj^o, iiikI in nnotlior Rpurclunl 
 aloiif» tho hIioi'o for Of^^i^H. 'J'lio l'u|iunm(|ii()(ly chinf i'h socii 
 ^lidiiii^ Hwil'lly over tlui (1<'0[) in his fni,'j;ih! hiirk. llo has 
 olmi'ivcd a porpoisj' liniithin|2f. Watch him, for now ho is closo 
 upon the nnsiiHiM'c(in<>; (h)l|>liin. llo riscH erect; aims his 
 nmHket: Hnioko rises ('urlin<i; from th(* j)an, and rnslu>s from tho 
 iron tnl>e, when soon after the* report reaches the car: mean- 
 time, tlu^ porpois(> has snihlenly tnrncfl hack downwards; it is 
 dead. 'I'he ho;ly weipfhs a hnndied poinids or mores hnt this, to 
 thi! tonjih-lil)red son of the woods, is nothin;jj; he; reaches it 
 with his mnsenhir arms, and, at a sinful-! jerk — whihi with liis 
 l(!g8 ho dexterously steadies tlie eanne — ho throws it h'ngtli- 
 wise at his feet. Amidst the liigliost waves of tho Jiay of 
 Fnndy, these* feats are perfornu'tl Ijy the Indians (hiring the 
 wh(de of the season, wlien the porpoises resort tliither. 
 
 " You have often, no doubt, heard of the extraordinary tides 
 of tliis bay ; so had I, but, like others, I was h^th to believe 
 tliat the reports w(!re strictly true. So I went to tho pretty 
 town of Windsor, in Nova Scotia, to judge for myself. 
 
 ** Jhit let lis leave tho Fancy for awhile, and fancy ourselves 
 at Windsor, l-ato one day in August, my companions and 1 
 wore seated on the grassy and elevated bank of tho river, about 
 eighty feet or so above its bed, which was almost dry, and 
 extended for nine miles below like a sandy wilderness. Many 
 vessels lay on the high banlcs, taking in thciir cargo of gypsum, 
 Wo thought the appearance very singular, but wo were too lato 
 to watch the tide that evening. Next morning we resumed 
 our station, and soon perceived tho water flowing towards us, 
 and rising with a rapidity of which we had ])reviou8ly seen no 
 example. We i)lanted ahmg tho steep declivity of the bank a 
 number of sticks, each three feet long, the bnse of one being placed 
 on a level with the top of that below it, and when about half flow 
 the tide readied their lops, one after another, rising three feet 
 in ten minutis, or eighteen in tho hour, and at high water the 
 surface was sixty-live feet above tho bed of the river. On lock- 
 ing for the vessels which we had seen the previous evening, \w 
 were told that most of tluni had gone with the niglit tide. 
 r)ut now we are again on board the l'\uicy ; ]\[r. Claredge stand.< 
 near the i)ilot, who sits next to the num at tlie helm. On w, 
 
A REHCITR. 
 
 •241 
 
 movo swiftly, for tlio hnjozo liiw (rcshencd ; many iHliviulH wo 
 |Hi88 ill Hucoosflion ; the wind incnMisos to a gale. With reefed 
 sjiils wo dash along, and now rapidly puHS a iieavily-ladon sloop, 
 gallantly rnnning aoroH8 our eourso with undiminished sail, 
 when suddenly wo see her upset. Staves and spars are floating 
 aroiind, and j)rosent]y wo observe three men scrambling up her 
 sides, and seating themselves on the keel, where they make 
 signals of distress to us. liy this time wo have run to a great 
 distance; but Claredge, cool and prudent, as every seaman 
 ought to be, has already issued his orders to the helmsman and 
 crow, and, now near the wind, we gradually approach the 
 suft'erers. A line is thrown to them, and next moment wo nre 
 alongside the vessel. A fisher's boat, too, has noticed the 
 disaster, and, with long strokes of her oars, advances, now rising 
 on the curling wave, and now sinking out of sight. By our 
 mutual efforts the men are brought on board, and the sloop is 
 slowly towed into a safe harbour. In an hour after my party 
 was safely landed at Eastport, where, on looking over the 
 waters, and observing the dense masses of vapours that veiled 
 I the shore, we congratulated ourselves at having escaped from 
 the Batj of Fundy." 
 
 'r, rising three feet 
 
 the holm. On w, 
 
 11 
 
|:; 
 
 242 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XLII. 
 
 ■Return to Boston — Wandeuinos in tiiio NKionnotmiioon — Voyage to 
 Labradok in the Schooxeu KiPiiKY — Misadventures at Litti.k 
 IhvEij — Seal and Mud Islands — The Gut of Canseau. 
 
 From Frederickton Audubon returned in a private conveyance 
 to Houlton, thence along tlie United States military road to 
 Bangor, and thence by public stages to Boston, where ho 
 arrived early in October. Finding tliat it would improve his 
 great work on the " Birds " to remain another year in America, 
 and visit parts of the country yet unexplored by him, Audubon 
 determined to send his eldest son Victor to England, to 
 superintend the engraving, and to look after his general 
 interests there. Victor Audubon accordingly sailed from New 
 York for Liverpool, toward the end of October, while his tatlier 
 remained in Boston during tliat and the following winter, 
 actively engaged in making drawings of new bir.ls which lie 
 had discovered, and also in redrawing and greatly improving 
 some of his older drawings. He aiso made frequent excm'sions 
 into the surrounding country. " Here,' says the .Fouriial, " I was 
 witness to tlie melancholy death of the great 8i)urzheiin, and was 
 myself suddenly attacked by a short but sevc'e illness, which 
 greatly alarmed my family ; but thanks to I'rovidence and my 
 medical friends, Pai-kman, Shattuclc, and Warren, I was soon 
 enabled to proceed with my labour — a sedentary life and too 
 close application being the cause assigned for my indisposition. I 
 resolved to set out again in quest of fresli niatiM-ials for my pencil 
 
)UR1I00D — VOYAflE TO 
 t'KXTURKS AT LiTTl.K 
 
 Casskau. 
 
 irivate conveyance 
 
 8 military road to 
 
 Boston, where ho 
 
 voukl improve liis 
 
 sr year in Ameriro, 
 
 by him, Anduboii 
 
 to Eiigland, to 
 
 after his general 
 
 sailed from New 
 
 r, while his father 
 
 following winter, 
 
 w birds which lio 
 
 greatly improving 
 
 reqnont excnrsions 
 
 ic Journal, " I was 
 
 imrzheim, and was 
 
 ive '0 illness, whioli 
 
 rovidence and my 
 
 irron, I was soon 
 
 ntary life and too 
 
 ly in(lispt)sitioii. I 
 
 rials ibr my pencil 
 
 [SAILS FOR LABRADOR. 
 
 243 
 
 and pen. My wishes directing me to Labrador, I returned 
 eastward with my youngest son, and had the pleasure of being 
 joined by four young gentlemen, all fond of natural history, 
 and willing to encounter the difficulties and privations of the 
 voyage — George Shattuck, Thomas Lincoln, William Ingalls, 
 and Joseph Coolidge." 
 
 The schooner Kijiley was chartered at Boston for fifteen 
 Imndred dollars for the trip to Labrador. The journal contain- 
 ing the rarrative begins at Eastport. 
 
 "June 4, 1813. The day has been fine, and I dined with 
 Captain Cliilds, commanding the United States troops here. 
 We had a pleasant dinner, but I am impatient to be under 
 weigh for Labrador. The vessel is being prepared for our 
 reception and departure ; and we have concluded to ship two 
 extra sailors, and a boy, to be a sort of major-domo, to clean our 
 guns, l^unt for nests and birds, and assist in skinning them, &c. 
 While rambling in the woods this raornirg I discovered a crow's 
 nest with fi> o young ones in it, and as I climbed the tree the 
 parents came to the rescue of their children, crying loudly and 
 with such perseverance, that in fifteen minutes more than fifty 
 pairs of these birds had joined in their vociferations, although I 
 saw only a single pair when I began to climb the tree. 
 
 " June 6. We sailed from Eastport about one o'clock p.m., 
 and the whole male population seemed to have turned out to 
 witness our departure, just as if no schooner of the size of the 
 Ivipley had ever gone from this mighty port to Labrador; 
 our numerous friends came with the throng, and we all shook 
 hands as if we were never to meet again ; and as we pushed off 
 with a trilling r incident or so, the batteries of the garrison and 
 the cannon of ciie revenue cutter in the stream sainted us witli 
 stout, loud, and oft-repeated reports. Captain Coolidgu accom- 
 panied us, and was, indeed, our pilot, until we passed Lubcc. 
 Tlio wind was light and ahead, and yet with the assistance of 
 the tide we drifted twenty-five miles down to Little River 
 during the night. 
 
 "June 7. This morning found us riding at i uchor near some 
 ugly-looking rocks, the sight of whicdi caused our captain to try 
 t(t get out of their way, and the whole morning was sjtcnt in 
 trying to get into Little River, but the nicn were uiiidtle to tow 
 
 It 2 
 
244 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 
 US in. We landed for a few minutes and shot a hermit thrush, 
 but the wind sprang up, and we returned to the vessel and tried 
 to put out to sea ; we were for a time in danger of drifting upon 
 thi rocks, but the wind increased, and we made our way out to 
 sja. Suddenly, however, the fog came drifting in, and was so 
 thick that we could hardly see the bowsprit, and the night was 
 spent in direful apprehension of some impending evil ; although, 
 about twelve, squalls of wind decided in our favour, and when 
 day dawned the wind was blowing fresh from the north, and we 
 were driving on the waters, all sea-sick, and crossing that worst 
 of all dreadful bays, the Bay of Fundy. 
 
 " June 8. We sailed between Seal and Mud Islands. In the 
 latter the procellaria (a species of gull) breed abundantly ; 
 their nests are dug in the sand to the depth of two feet or more, 
 and the whole island is covered with them, looking like rat 
 holes. They lay three white eggs." • 
 
 The next two days recorded in the Journal describe the winds 
 and sights, and birds which were seen as the voyagers scudded 
 from Cape Sable to the Gut of Canseau, so named by the early 
 French voyagers, because they found vast quantities of wild 
 geese there. The wind was fair, and the captain of the 
 Ripley wished to continue his course to Labrador. But 
 Audubon, anxious to explore every part of the coast along 
 which they were sailing, persuaded the captain to come to 
 anchor in a harbour in the Gut of Canseau, of the same name. 
 Here he found twenty sail of Labrador fishermen at anchor, and 
 obtained the information which enabled him to write the follow- 
 ing episode. 
 
 li 
 
CHAFIEK XLII. 
 
 l^pibODE : Cod-Fishing in Labuadok. 
 
 " AiiTHOUGH I had seen, as I thought, abundance of fish along 
 the coasts of the Floridas, the numbers wliich I found in 
 Labrador quite astonished me. Should your surprise while 
 reading the following statements be as great as mine was while 
 observing the facts related, you will conclude, as 1 have often 
 done, tiiat Nature's means for providing small animals for the 
 use of large ones, and vice versa, are as ample as is the grandeui 
 of that world which she has so curiously constructed. The coast 
 of Labrador is visited by European as well as American fisher- 
 men, all of whom are, I believe, entitled to claim portions of 
 fishing ground, assigned to each nation by mutual understanding. 
 For the present, however, 1 shall confine my observations to 
 tliose who chiefly engage in this department of our commerce. 
 Eastport in Maine sends out every year a goodly fleet of 
 schooners and ' pick-axes ' to Labrador, to })rocure cod, mackerel, 
 halibut, and sometimes herring, the latter being caught in the 
 intermediate space. The vessels from that port, and others in 
 filaine and Massachusetts, sail as soon as the warmth of spring 
 has freed the gulf of ice, that is from the beginning of May to 
 that of June. 
 
 " A vessel of one hundred tons or so is provided with a crew of 
 twelve men, who are equally expert as sailors and fishers, and 
 for every couple of these hardy tars a Hampton boat is provided, 
 which is lashed on the deck or hung in stays. Their provision 
 is simple, but of good quality, and it is very seldom any spirits 
 are allowed; beef, pork, and biscuit, with water, being all they 
 take with them. The men are supplied with warm clothing, 
 
\ \ 
 
 246 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 t 
 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 water-proof oil jackets and trousers, large boots, broad-brimmed | 
 hats with a round crown, and stout mittens, with a few shirts, 
 Tlie owner or captain furnishes them with lines, hooks, and nets, I 
 and also provides the bait best adapted to insure success. Tlie 
 hold of the vessel is filled with casks of various dimensions, some | 
 containing salt, and others for tlie oil that may be procurixl. 
 The bait generally used at the beginning of the season consists I 
 of mussels, salted for the purpose ; but as soon as the capelings 
 reach the coast, they are substituted to save expense ; and, ii 
 many instances, the flesh of gannets and other sea-fowl is em- 
 ployed. The wages of fishermen vary from sixteen to thirty | 
 dollars per mouth, according to the qualifications of the indi- 
 vidual. The labour of these men is excessively hard, for, unless I 
 on Sunday, their allowance of rest in the twenty-four hours | 
 seldom exceeds three. The cook is tlie only person who fares | 
 better in this respect, but he must also assist in curing the fisli, 
 He has breakfast, consisting of coffee, bread, and meat, ready ] 
 for the captain and the whole crew, by three o'clock every 
 morning except Sunday. Each person carries with him liis 
 dinner ready cooked, which is commonly eaten on the fishing I 
 ground. Thus, at three in the morning, the crow are prepared 
 for their day's labour, and ready to betake themselves to tlieir | 
 boats, each of which has two oars and lug-sails. They all depart 
 at once, and either by rowing or sailing, reach the baidcs to 
 which the fishes are known to resort. The little squadron drop 
 their anchors at short distances from each other, in a depth of I 
 from ten to twenty feet, and the business is immediately com- 
 menced. Each man has two lines, and each stands in one end 
 of the boat, the middle of which is boarded off to hold the fisb. 
 The baited lines hove been dropped into the water, one on each 
 side of the boat ; their leads have reached the botton ; a fish has 
 taken the hook, and after giving the line a slight jerk, the 
 fisherman hauls up his prize with a continued pull, ^..'ivows the 
 fish athwart a small round bar of iron placed neor his bacli, 
 which forces open the mouth, while the weiglit of the body, 
 however small the fish may be, tears out the hook. The bait is 
 still good, and over the side the line again goes, to catcli 
 another fish, while that on the left is now drawn up, and the 
 same course pursued. In this manner, a fisher busily plying ;;' 
 
COD-FISHIKG. 
 
 1:47 
 
 oach end, tho opomtioii is continued, until the Ijjoat is so ladoii 
 that hov gnnwah) is bronglit within a fow inches of the surface, 
 when they return to the vessel in harbour, seldom distant more 
 than eight miles from the banks. During the greater })art of 
 the day the lishernieu have kept up a constant conversation, of 
 which the topics are the pleasures of finding a good supply of 
 cod, their domestic affairs, the political prospects of the nation, 
 and otlier matters similarly »'(mnected. Now the repartee of 
 one elicits a laugh from the other ; this passes from man to 
 man, and the whole flotilla enjoy the joke. The men of one 
 boat strive to outdo those of the others in hauling up tbe 
 greatest quantity of fish in a given time, and this forms another 
 source of merriment. The boats are generally filled about tlie 
 same time, and all return together. Arrived at the vessel, each 
 man employs a pole armed with a bent iron, resembling the 
 prong of a hay-fork, with which he pierces the fish and throws 
 it with a jerk on dock, counting the number tjius dischargcid 
 with a loud voice. Each cargo is thus safely deposited, and the 
 boats instantly return to the fishing ground, when, after anchor- 
 ing, the men eat their dinner and begin anew. There, good 
 reader, with your leave, 1 will let them pursue their avocations 
 for awhile, as 1 am anxious that you should witness what is doing 
 on board the vessel. The r-aptain, four men, and the cook have, 
 in the course of the morning, erected long tables fore and aft of 
 the main hatchway. They have taken to the slioro most of tho 
 salt barrels, and have placed in a row their large empty casks to 
 receive the livers. 'I'he held of the vessel is quite clear, except 
 a corner, where is a large heap of suit. And now the men, 
 having dined precisely at twelve, are ready with their large 
 knives. One begins witli breaking off the iiead of the fish, a 
 slight pull of the Inind and a gash with the knife ellecting this 
 in a moment. He slits up the belly, with one hand puslies it 
 iiside to his neighbom-, then throws overboard the head and 
 begins to doctor another ; tlie next man tears out the entrails, 
 separates the liver, wliich he tlirows into a cask, and casts tho 
 rest overboard. A third person dexterously passes his knife 
 beneath the vertebrio of the fish, separates them from the flesh, 
 heaves the hitter through the hatchway, and the former into the 
 water. Now, if you will peep into the hold, you will sei' the 
 
r 
 
 !■ 
 
 i:-irf 
 
 I.Il'Mi OF ATDUllON. 
 
 !4H 
 
 B siH 
 
 
 
 
 ) 
 
 last sUi^j^o, i>i' the pitKiess, tlic sjiltiii}; and pacikiii^. Six ex- 
 pt'rieiu'ctl men ;,'onoralIy ma. ago to lioad, gut, bono, salt, and 
 jnirk all iln- llsh ciiuglit in ll»o morning, l)y tlio return of tlio 
 l)iiil villi iVosli ciirgoos, when nil hands st^t to work and clear 
 the di ck of tlie lish. Thus their labours eontinius until twelve 
 o'(doelv, when they wash their i'aees and hands, put on clean 
 clothes, hang their lishing apparel ^m iho shrouds, and, betaking 
 tlu'nise'lves to the forecastle, are soon in a sound sleep. 
 
 " At three next morning comes the captain t'ro'u his berth, 
 rubbing his eyes, and in a loud voice culling, ' All hands, ho !' 
 StitVened in limb, and but halt' awake, tho crow (juickly appear 
 on deck. Tlunr lingers and hands are so cramped and swollen 
 by pulling tlie lines that it is dillicult tor them even to straighten 
 a thumb; but this matters little at present, tor tho cook, who 
 hail a good nap yesterday, has risen an hour before them, and 
 prepared their coiliee and eatables. Breakfast despatched, they 
 exchange t ir clean clothes for tho fishing apparel, and leap 
 into their boats, which had beiui washed tin* previous night, and 
 again tho llotilla bounds to the fishing ground. As there may 
 bo not less than 100 schooners or pick-axes in the harbour, 
 300 boats resort to the banks each day ; and as eac\\ boat may 
 ])rocure 2,000 cod per diem, when Saturday night comes, about 
 (500,000 lishes have been brought to the harbour. Tiiis having 
 caused some scarcity on the tishing grounds, and Sunday being 
 somewhat of an idle day, the captain collects the salt ashore, 
 and sets sail for some other convenient harbour, which he expects 
 to reach bc^fore sunset. If the weather be favourable the men 
 get a good deal of rest during the voyage, and on Blouday 
 things go on as before. I must not omit to tell you, reader, 
 that while proceeding from one harbour to another the vessel 
 has passed near a rock which is the breeding place of myriads 
 of puiMns. She has laid to for an hour or so, whiU' part of the 
 crew have landed and collected a store of eggs, excellent as a 
 substitute for cream, and not less so when hard boiled as food 
 for the lishing grounds. I may as well inlbrm you also how 
 those adventurous fellows distinguish the fresh eggs from the 
 others. They fill up some large tubs \yith water, throw in a 
 quantity of egg. , and allow them to renuiin a minute or so, 
 whiiu. those which come to the surface are tossed overboartl, and 
 
SALTING COD-l'MSH. 
 
 •241) 
 
 (Ls, anil, botaUiug 
 
 even thoso tliiit manifest any upward tondoiicy share tlio name 
 troatniont. All that riiinain at bottom, yon may depend npoii 
 it, good reader, are perfectly Round, and not less j)alfttal)le than 
 any that you have ever eattni, or that ^ our best guinea-fowl has 
 just dropped in your barn-yard ; but let us return to the cod-fish. 
 Tlu! lish already j)roeurt>d and salted is taken ashore at the ni>w 
 harbour by j)art of the crew, whom the ca})tain has marked as 
 the worst hands at fishing. There on the bun^ rocks, or elevated 
 scaft'oMs of considerable extent, the salted cods are Inid side by 
 side to dry in the sun. They are turned several times a day, 
 and in the intervals the men bear a hand on board at clearing 
 and stowing away the (hiily produce of the fishing banks. 
 Towards evening they return to the drying grounds, and })ut up 
 tlii^ fish in piles resendding so nutny haystacks, (hsposing thos(! 
 towards the top in such a manner that the rain cannot injure 
 tlieni, and placing a heavy stone on the summit to prcvi nt i\wh' 
 bi>ing thrown down, should it blow hard during the night. 
 You see, reader, that the life of a Labrador fish(>rman is not oiu; 
 of idleness. The capelings have approaclunl the shores, and in 
 myriads enter every basin and stream <o dejMisit their spawn, 
 tor now July is come, the cods follow them as the bloodliound 
 follows liis prey, and their comjiact masses literally line the 
 slion^s. The fishermen now adopt another method. They have 
 brought with th(>m long and (l(H>p seines, one end of which is, 
 by means of a line, fastened to the shore, while the cither is in 
 the usual mamicr drawn out in a broad swe;'i). to inclose^ as 
 gn>at a si>ace as possible, and hauled on shore by means of a 
 capstan. Some of the men in boats su])port the corked part of 
 the net, and beat the water to frighten the fishes within towards 
 the land ; while others, armed with poles, enter the water, hook 
 the fishes, an<l (ling them on tlu^ beach, tlu^ net being gradually 
 drawn closer as the number of fishes diminish. What do you 
 thiidv, reader, as to the nund)er of cods secured in this manner 
 iit a single haul ? — twenty or thirty thousand. Von ntay form 
 some notion of the matter when I tell you that the young 
 gentlemen of my party, while going along the shores, caught 
 cud-fish alive with their hands, and t routs of weight with a ])icce 
 of twine and a mackerel hoolc hung to tlunr gun rods ; and that 
 il' two of them walked knet.'-deep along the i-ocks, lu>lding a 
 
< .: 
 
 250 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 haiKlkerohief by the corners, they swept it full of capelings: 
 should you not trust me in this, I refer you to the fishermen 
 themselves, or recommend you to go to Labrador, where yon 
 will give credit to the testimony of your eyes. The seining of 
 the cod-fish is not, 1 believe, quite lawful, for a great proportion 
 of the codlings > lich o'- Iragged ashore at last are so small as 
 to be considered : >! . and, instead of being returned to the 
 water as they ougU i t;'. re left on the shore, where they arc 
 ultimately eaten by .s, s o]-es, and ravens. The fishes taken 
 along the coast or fishing stu..^ \s only a few miles off arc of 
 small dimensions, and I believe I am correct in saying that few 
 of them weigh more than two pounds when perfectly cured, or 
 exceed six when taken out of the water. The fish are liable to 
 several diseases, and at times are annoyed by parasitic animals, 
 which in a short time render them lean and unfit for use. Some 
 individuals, from laziness or other causes, fish with naked hool^s, 
 and thus frequently wound tlie cod without securing them, in 
 consequence of which the slioals are driven away, to the detri- 
 ment of the other fishers. Some carry their cargoes to other 
 ports before drying them, while others dispose of them to agents 
 from distant shores. Some have only a pick-axe of fifty tons, 
 vihile others are owners of seven or eight vessels of equal (ir 
 larger burden ; but whatever be their means, sliould the season 
 prove favourable, they are generally well repaid for tlieir labour, 
 I have known instances of men who on their first voyage ranked 
 as ' boys,' and in ten years after were in independent circum- 
 stances, although they still continued to resort to the fishing. 
 ' For,' said they to me, ' how could we be content to spend our 
 time in idleness at home?' I know a person of this class who 
 has carried on the trade for many years, and who has quit>. a 
 little fleet of schooners, one of which, the largest and nio5t 
 beautifully built, has a cabin as neat and comfortable as tuiy 
 that I have ever seen in a vessel of the same size. This vessel 
 took fish on board only when perfectly cured, or acted as pilot 
 to the rest, and now and then would return home w itli an ample 
 supply of halibut, or a cargo of prime mackerel. On anotlier 
 occasion I will offer some remarks on the impi-ovements wliioli 
 I think might be made in the cod fisheries of the coast et 
 Jjabrador." 
 
CHAPTER XLIII. 
 
 En Routk to LAnnADon — Gut of Caxskau— Jestico Island— Entree Bay — 
 Maodai.enk Island — TiiR Iniiauitaxts — OBNiTiiOLorucAij Notes — 
 BiUDS on the liocK — Natasquan Hiver — First Impressions of La- 
 
 DKADOR — NaTASQUAN FaLI.8 — HALIFAX EoOERS. 
 
 June 11. From the entrance to the Gut of Canseau, wliere the 
 Eipley hxy at anchor, Audubon had the first view of tho south- 
 eastern coast of Nova Scotia, which he describes as " dreary, 
 rocky, poor and inhospitable-looking." It snowed the next day, 
 yet, when the party went asliore, they found not only trees in 
 bloom, but the ground plants were in flower, and some tolerably 
 good-looking grass ; and they saw also robins, and sparrows, 
 and finches, and their nests with young ones. But no custom- 
 liouse officer appeared, nor any indi\i(lnal wlio could give them 
 any valuable information. They found lobsters very abundant, 
 and caught forty in a very short time ; but to their surprise 
 they did not see a single sea-bird. 
 
 "June 12. To-day there has been cold, rain and hail, but tho 
 frogs are piping in the pools. By-and-by the weather became 
 benutiful, and the wind fair, and we vrere soon under way, 
 following in the wake of tho whole ileet, which had been 
 uncliored in tho harbour of Canseau, and gliding across the 
 great bay under full press of sail. Tlie land locked us in, the 
 water was smooth, the sky serene, and the thermometer at 4G°, 
 and the sunshine on deck was very agreeable. After sailing 
 twenty-one miles we entered the real Gut of Canseau, passhig 
 
'l:^2 
 
 I.IFK OF AHDITnON. 
 
 1 i 
 
 ' .i 
 
 niio after another every vessel of the fleet with which wo Imil 
 sailed. 
 
 "The land on each side now rose in tlie form of an amphi- 
 theatre, and on tiio Nova Seotia side to a considerahle heij^lit ; 
 dwellings appeared here and thei-e, hnt the conntry is too poor 
 for comfort ; the timber is small, and the land too stony ; a 
 small patclj of ploughed land planted, or ready for potatoes, was 
 all the cidfivation we saw. Near one house we saw a ftnv apple- 
 trees, whieli were not yet in blo(mi. The general appearaneo 
 of this passage reminded me of some parts of the Hudson Kiver, 
 and, accompanied as we were by thirty sail of vessels, the time 
 passed agreeably. Vegetation appeared about as forward as at 
 Eastport : saw a few chimney swallows and heard a few blue 
 jays. As we passed Cape Porcupine, a high rounding hill, we 
 saw some Indians in birch-bark canoes, and clearing Cape George 
 we were soon in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. From this place, on 
 the 20tli of May Inst year, the sea was a sheet of ice as far as 
 the eye could reach with the aid of a good spy-glass. 
 
 " We ran down the west coast of Cape Breton Island, and the 
 country looked well in the distance ; large undulating hills were 
 covered with many hamlets, and patches of cultivated land 
 were seen. It being calm when we neared Jestico Island, about 
 three miles from Cape Breton, I left the vessel and landed on it. 
 It was covered with well-grown grass, and filled witli strawberry 
 vines in full bloom. The sun shone brightly, the weather was 
 pleasant, and we found many northern birds breeding there ; 
 the wild gooseberries were plentiful, about the size of a pea, and 
 a black currant also. The wind a rose, and we hurried back to 
 the vessel : on the way my son John and some of the sailors 
 nearly killed a seal with their oars. 
 
 "June 13. This morning at four o'clock we came in sight of 
 tiie Magdalene Islands, distant about twenty miles. The morning 
 was dull, and by breakfast-time a thick fog obscured the horizon, 
 and we lost sight of the islands ; the wind rose sluggishly and 
 dead ahead, and several ships and brigs loaded with timber from 
 the Miremacliio came near us beating their way to the Atlantic. 
 At nine o'clock we dropped anchor, being partly land-locked 
 between Breton Island and the Highlands, and within a quarter 
 of a mile of an isUind, which Ibrnied a part of the group. The 
 
MAUDALtNli ISLANDS. 
 
 253 
 
 h wliicb we hml 
 
 came in sight of 
 
 ))ilot, Nviiu is well acquainted here, iuturined me that the itnlaiuls 
 are all couueeted by dry saud-bars, and with no ebaiinel bi'tweeu 
 them except the one we are in, called Entree Jiiiy, which is 
 formed by Entree Island and a long sand-spit connecting it 
 with the mainland. Tiio island is forty-eight miles long, and 
 three in breatUli ; the formation is a red rough sandy soil, and 
 the noith-west side is constantly wearing away by the action of 
 the sea. Guillemots were seated upright along the projecting 
 shelvings in ri.'gular order, resembling so many sentinels on the 
 look-out ; many gannets also were seen on the extreme points 
 of the island. On one of the islands were many houses, and a 
 small church, and on the highest land a large cross, indicating 
 the religion of the inhabitants. Several small vessels lay in 
 the harbour called Pleasant Bay, but the weather is so cold wo 
 caunot visit them until to-morrow. 
 
 *' June 14, 1833. Magdalene Islands, Gulf of St. Lawrence. 
 It is one week since we lelt Eastport, and we breakfasted with 
 the thermometer at 44" in our cabin, and on deck it feels like 
 mid-winter. We landed on the island next to us so chilled that 
 wo could scarcely use our hands ; two largo bluffs frowned on 
 each side of us, the resort of many sea-birds, and some noble 
 ravens which we saw. Following a narrow path we soon came 
 upon one of God's best-finished jewels, a woman. She saw us 
 first, for women are always keenest in sight and perception, in 
 l)atieuce and fortitude and love, in faith and sorrow, and, as I 
 bt'lieve, in everything else which adorns our race. She was 
 hurrying toward.s her cottage, with a child in her arms having 
 no covering but a little shirt. The mother was dressed in coarse 
 French homespun, with a close white cotton nightcap on her 
 head, and the mildest-looking woman 1 had seen in many a day. 
 At a venture 1 addi-essed her in French, and it answered well, 
 for she replied in an unintelligible jargon, about one-third of 
 \vhi(^h I understood, which enabled me to make out that she was 
 the wife of a fisherman who lived there. 
 
 " We walked on through the woods towards the church. 
 Who would have expected to find a church on such an island, 
 among such impoverished people? Yet here it was, a Itoman 
 Catholi(! cinirch. And here we came suddenly on a hand- 
 some, youthful, vigorous, black-haired and black-bearded fellow, 
 
2C4 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 covered witli a long garment ns black as ii raven, and a heart an 
 light as a young lark's. IIo was wending his way to the ehurch, 
 at the sound of a boll, which measured twelve inches by nine 
 in diameter, of about thirty pounds weight, which eould n(!ver- 
 theless bo heard for a quarter of a niilo. It was the festival 
 among the Koman Catholics of La Petite Fete de Dieu. The 
 chapel was lighted with candles, and all the old women on the 
 island had trudged from their distant dwellings, stafll' in hand, 
 backs bent with age, and eyes dimmed by time. They crossed 
 their breasts and knelt before the tawdry images in the church, 
 with so much simplicity and apparent sincerity of heart, that I 
 could not help exclaiming to myself, ' Well, this is religion after 
 all.' 
 
 " The priest, named Brunet, was from Quebec, and these islands 
 belong to Lower Canada, but are under tho jurisdiction of the 
 Bishop of Halifax. Ho is a shrewd-looking fellow, and, if I do 
 Aot mistake his character, with a good deal of the devil in him. 
 lie told us there were no reptiles on the island ; but we found 
 by our own observations that he was mistaken, as he was also iu 
 the representations he made respecting the quadrupeds, '^riiis 
 jjriest, who I hope is a good and worthy man, told us that the 
 land is very poor, and destitute of game, and that the seal- 
 fisheries were less profitable last year than common; that there 
 are about one hundred and sixty families on a dozen islands, 
 and that cod, mackerel, and herring-fishing were the employ- 
 ments of the inhabitants. One or two vessels come from 
 Quebec yearly to collect the produce (of the sea). The priest 
 said he led the life of a recluse here, but if we would accompany 
 him to his boarding-house he would give us a glass of good 
 French wine. 
 
 " On our rambles we found the temperature on land quite 
 agreeable, and in sheltered situations the sun was warm and 
 pleasant. The grass looked well, and strawberry blossoms were 
 plenty. The woods, such as they were, were filled with warbhn's : 
 the robin, thrush, finch, bunting, &c. Tlu^ fox-taiknl spaiTow 
 and siskni breed here, the hermit and tawny thrush crossed our 
 path, the black-capped warbler gambolled over the pools, and 
 even the wrens were everywhere. Of water-birds the great 
 ,enis v.ere abundant, and the piping plovers breed here. ^^'' 
 
FLOCK OF (JANNKTS, 
 
 Zoo 
 
 also collected Roveral spocicH of laiKl-RiiailH, and some KpeeimenH 
 of f^psnm. Wo crossed the bay in tlio ftftornnoii, and found a 
 man who lind sonie fox-skins for sale : ho askccl (ivo ponndt< 
 apiece for the black fox, and one dollar and fifty cents for the 
 red skins. The woods here are small, scriibby evergreens, 
 almost impenetrable and swampy beneath. Thermometer this 
 evening 44°. 
 
 " Juna If). Day dawned with the weather (hdl, but the wind 
 fair, and we pulled up anchor and left the IMagdalene Islands for 
 Labrador, the ultimatum of our present desires. About ten 
 o'(!loek we saw on the distant horizon a speck, which I was told 
 was the llock ; the wind now freshened, and I coulil soon see it 
 pluiidy from the deck, the top apparently covered with snow. 
 Our pilot said that tho snow, which seemed two or three feet 
 thick, was the white gnnnets which resort there. I rubbed my 
 eyes, and took my spy-glass, and instantly the strange picture 
 stood before me. They were indeed birds, and such a mass of 
 birds, and of such a size as I never saw before. The whole of 
 my party were astonished, and all agreed that it was worth 
 a voyage across the Bay of Fundy and the Gulf of St. Lawrence 
 to see such a sight. The nearer we approached, the greater was 
 our surprise at the enormous number of these birds, all calmly 
 seated on their eggs, and their heads turned to the windward 
 towards us. Tiie air for a hundred yards above, and for a long 
 distance around, was filled with ganuets on the wing, which 
 from our position made tlie air look as if it was filled with 
 falling snowflalces, and caused a thick, foggy-like atmosphere 
 all around the rock. The wind was too high to allow us to land, 
 but wo wore so anxious to do so that some of tho party made 
 tlio attempt. The vessel was brought to, and a whale-boat 
 launched, and young Lincoln and John pushed off with clubs 
 and guns ; tho wind increased an. rain set in, but they gained 
 the lee of the rock, but after an hour's absence returned with- 
 out landing. The air was filled with birds, but they did not 
 porpo])tiMy rliminish the numbers on the rock. As the vessel 
 tlriitcd nearer the rock, we could see that the birds sat so close 
 as almost to touch one another in regular lines, looking like so 
 many mole-hills. The discharge of a gun had no effect on 
 tlioso which were not touched bv the shot, for the noise of the 
 
25G 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUKON. 
 
 I '' 
 
 \'l 
 
 birds stimiiod all those out of reach of the gun. But where the 
 shot took effect the birds scrambled and flew off in such multi- 
 tudes and such confusion that, whilst eight or ten were falling in 
 the water dead or wounded, others shook down their eggs, 
 which fell into the sea by hundreds in all directions. The sea 
 i:)ecame rougher, and the boat was compelled to return, bringing 
 some birds and some eggs, but without the party being able to 
 (dimb the rock. 
 
 " The top of the main rock is a quarter of a mile wide from 
 north to south, and a little narrower from east to west ; its ele- 
 vation above the sea is between three and four himdred feot. 
 The sea dashes around it with great violence : except in long 
 calms it is extremely difficult to land on it, and much more 
 difficult to climb to its platform. The whole surface was 
 perfectly covered with nests, about two feet apart, in rows as 
 regular as a potato field. The fishermen kill these birds and 
 use their flesh for bait for cod-fish. The crews of several vessels 
 unite, and, armed with clubs, as they reach the top of the rock 
 the birds rise with a noise like thunder, and attempt to fly in 
 such hurried confusion as to knock each other down, often 
 piling one on another in a bank of many feet thickness. The 
 men beat and kill them until they have obtained a supply, 
 or wearied themselves. Six men in this way have killed five or 
 six hundred in one hour. The birds are skinned and cut into 
 iunks, and the bait keeps good for a fortnight. Forty sail of 
 iishermen annually supply themselves with bait from this rock 
 in this way. By the twentieth of May the birds lay their eggs, 
 and hatch about the twentieth of June. 
 
 ''June 17. The wind is blowing a gale, and nearly all my 
 party is deadly sick. Thermometer 43°, and raining nearly 
 all day. We laid to all night, and in the morning were in sight 
 of Anticosti Island, distant about twenty miles. It soon became 
 tiiick, and we lost sight of it. 
 
 " June 18. The weather is calm, beautiful, and much warmer. 
 We caught many cod- fish, which contained crabs of a curious 
 structure. At six p.m. the wind sprung up fair, and we made 
 cdl sail for Labrador. 
 
 "June IJ). I was on deck at three o'clock a.m., and although 
 the sun was not above the horizon it was quite light. The sea 
 
ARRIVAL AT LABRADOR. 
 
 257 
 
 was literally covered with foolish guillemots playing in the very 
 spray under our bow, plunging as if in fun under it, and rising 
 like spirits close under our rudder. The wind was fair, and the 
 land in sight from aloft, and I now look forward to our landing 
 on Labrador as at hand, and my thoughts are filled with ex- 
 pe(!tations of the new knowledge of birds and animals which I 
 hope to acquire there. The Kipley sails well, but now she 
 fairly skipped over che water. The cry of land soon made my 
 heart bound with joy ; and as we approached it we saw what 
 looked like many sails of vessels, but we soon found that they 
 were snow-banks, and the air along the shore was filled with 
 millions of velvet ducks and other aquatic birds, flying in long 
 files a few yards above the water. 
 
 " We saw one vessel at anchor, and the country looked well 
 from the distance ; and as we neared the shore the thermo- 
 meter rose from 44° to 60°, yet the appearance of the snow-drifts 
 was forbidding. The shores appeared to be margined with a 
 broad and handsome sand-beach, and we saw imaginary bears, 
 wolves, and otlicr anim-als scampering away on the rugged 
 sliore. About tliirty boats were fishing, and we saw them 
 throwing the fish on deck by thousands. 
 
 " Wo soon reached the mouth of the Natasquan River, where 
 the Hudson Bay Company have a fishing establishment, and 
 where no American vessel is allowed to come. The shore was 
 filled with bark-covered huts, and some vessels were anchored 
 within the sand-point which forms one side of the entrance to 
 the river. We sailed on four miles further to the American 
 harbour, and came to anchor in a beautiful bay, wholly secure 
 from any winds. 
 
 " And now we arc positively at Labrador, lat. 50°, and farther 
 north than I ever was before. But what a country ! When 
 we landed and reached the summit we sank nearly up to our 
 knees in mosses of different sorts, producing such a sensation 
 as I never felt before. These mosses in the distance look like 
 hard rocks, but under the foot they feel like a velvet cushion. 
 AVe rambled about and searched in vain for a foot of square 
 earth ; a poor, rugged, and miserable country ; the trees are 
 wiry and scraggy dwarfs ; and when the land is not rocky it i& 
 l)ofr<rv to a man's waist. Ml the islands about the harbour were 
 
I I 
 
 ■i \' ' 
 
 25« 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 1 I 
 
 to 
 
 IE* 
 
 
 *n 
 
 si 
 
 I- 
 
 of the same character, and we saw but few land birds — one 
 pigeon, a few hawks, and smaller birds. The wild geese, eider- 
 ducks, loons, and many other birds breed here. 
 
 "June 19. The boats went off to neighbouring islands in 
 search of birds and eggs, and I remnined all day on board 
 drawing. Eggers from Halifax had robbed nearly all the eggs. 
 
 " The eider-ducks build their nests under the scraggy boughs 
 of the fir-trees, which here grow only a few inches above tlie 
 ground. The nests are scraped a few inches deep in the rotten 
 moss which makes the soil, and the boughs have to be raised 
 to find the nests. The eggs are deposited in down, and covered 
 with down, and keep warm a long time in absence of the duck. 
 They coinuKmly lay six eggs. 
 
 "June 20. The vessel rolls at her anchorage, and I have 
 drawn as well as I could. Our party has gone up tlie Natasquan 
 in search of adventures and birds. It seems strange to me 
 that in this wonderfully wild country all the wild birds should 
 be so shy. 
 
 "June 21. To-day I went four miles to the falls of the 
 little Natasquan Kiver, The river is small, its water dark and 
 irony, and its shores impenetrable woods, except here and there 
 a small interval overgrown with a wiry grass, unfit for cattle, 
 and of no use if it were, for there are no cattle here. We saw 
 several nets in the river for catching salmon ; they are stretclied 
 across the river, and the fish entangle their fins in trying to pass 
 them, and cannot get away. We visited the huts of the 
 Canadian fishermen of the Hudson Bay Company. They are 
 clothed and fed, and receive eighty dollars a year besides, for 
 their services. They have a cow, an ox, and one acre jf potatoes 
 planted. Tliey report seven f(>et of snow in winter, and that 
 only one-third ns many salmon are taken now as ten years ago; 
 one hundred barrels now is regarded as a fair season. This 
 river is t.velve miles long, has three rapids, is broad, swift, and 
 sliallow, and discharges a quantity of fine gravelly sand. 
 
 " June 22. Drew all day. 1'hermometer (JO^ at twelve, 
 We are so far north that we have scarcely any darkness at m';:lit 
 Our party visited some large ponds on a neighbouring island; 
 but they had neither fish, shells, nor grnss about them ; tin 
 shore a reddish sand : saw only !i few toads, and those palr^ 
 
GREAT SUPPLY OF EGGS. 
 
 259 
 
 land birds— one 
 wild geeso, eider- 
 
 onring islands in 
 all day on board 
 3arly all the eggs, 
 le scraggy boughs 
 inches above tlie 
 deep in the rott<?n 
 have to be raised 
 down, and covered 
 sence of the duck. 
 
 irago, and I have 
 
 ! uptlio Natasqnaii 
 
 ms striinge to me 
 
 wild birds should 
 
 ) the falls of the 
 I its water dark and 
 Bpt here and there 
 1, unfit for cattle, 
 here. We saw 
 they are stretched 
 IS in trying to pass 
 the huts of the 
 mpany. They are 
 year beside.s for 
 )ne acre jf jjotatoes 
 n winter, and that 
 as ten years ago ; 
 \iir season. This 
 is broad, swift, and 
 elly sand. 
 
 ()0' at twelve, 
 
 darkness at nijilit. 
 
 iglibouring island; 
 
 about them : tli' 
 
 Is, and those pal'- 
 
 ii 
 
 looking and poor. The country a barren rock as far as the eye 
 could reach, and mosses of several species were a foot in depth. 
 So sonorous is the song of the fox-coloured sparrow, that 1 
 heard it to-day while drawing in the cabin, from the distance of 
 a (juarter of a mile. The mosquitoes and black gnats are bad 
 on shore. 
 
 " June 23. We heard to-day that a party of four men from 
 Halifax, last spring, took in two months four hundred thousand 
 eggs, which they sold in Halifax at twenty-five cents a dozen. 
 Last year upwards of twenty sail of vessels were engaged in 
 this business ; and by this one may form some idea of tho 
 number of birds annually destroyed in this way, to say nothing 
 of the millions of others disposed of by the numerous fleet of 
 fishermen which yearly come to these regions, and lend their 
 liand to swell the devastation. The eggers destroy all the eggs 
 that are sat upon, to force the birds to lay fresh eggs, and by 
 robbing them regularly compel them to lay until nature is ex- 
 hausted, and so but few young ones are raised. These wondertul 
 nurseries must be finally destroyed, and in less than half a 
 century, uidess some kind government interpose to put a stop to 
 all this shameful destruction. The wind blows h'^re from the 
 south-east, and it brings rain continually." 
 
 The following episode epitomizes what Audubon saw or 
 learned about the men engaged in hunting eggs on those wild 
 md desolate islands. 
 
 s 2 
 
'( 
 
 1 
 
 (if 
 
 MO 
 
 UFIi OF AUDUBON. 
 
 CIIAPTEU XLIV. 
 
 Labradoii Ki'isor.Ks : The Eooeus of Labijaiioi!. 
 
 "The (listinc'tive a|ipel]atioii of jfrgers ' is jijiveii to ne't liii 
 persons who follow principally or ex(;lusively the avocalioii of 
 procuring eggs of wild birds, with the view of disposiuj- of ih*'!.. 
 at some distant port. Thoir groat object is to plunder over. 
 nest, whenever they can find it, no matter who e, and at viif-t- 
 ever risk. They are the pest of the feathered tribes, r >d th'.';! 
 brutal propensity to destroy the poor creatures nJier uiey have 
 robbed them is abundantly grn/uled whenever an opportunity 
 presents itself. ]\Iuch had been 'md iv me respecting these 
 destructive pirates befo:^ I visitiu ti;e a) 4 of ^.abrador, b'H 1 
 could not entirely credit all their ci deities until I had actually 
 witnessed their proceedings, which were such as to inspire no 
 small degree of horror. But you shall judge for yourself. 
 
 " See yon shallop shyly sailing along ; she sneaks like a thief, 
 wishing, as it were, to shun the very light of heaven. Under 
 the lee of every rocky isle some one at the tiller steers lier 
 course. 
 
 *' Were his trade an honest one ho would not think of hiding 
 his back behind the terrific rocks that seem to have been placeil 
 there as a resort to the myriads of birds that annually visit this 
 ijesol it) region of the earth for the })ui'pose of rearing tlieir 
 young at a distance from all disturbers of their peace. How 
 iiidike the open, bold the honest mariner, whoso lace needs no 
 Mj rik. wh.> corns to skulk under anvcircuii-.-ianccs ! The vt'ssil 
 
 I; 
 
THE "EGGERS" OF LABRADOR. 
 
 Zfil 
 
 lioi 8(;lf is a shabby thing ; her sails are patclied with stolen pieces 
 of better canva? , the owners of which have probably been stranded 
 on some inhospitable coast, and have been plundered, perhaps 
 murdered, by the wretches before us. Look at her again. Her 
 sides are neither painted nor even pitched ; no, they are daubed 
 over, plastered and patched with stripes of seal-skins, laid along 
 the seams. Her deck has never been 'vashed or sanded, her 
 hold — for no cabin has she — though at present empty, sends 
 forth an odour pestilential as that of a charncfl-houso. The 
 crow, eight in number, lie sleeping at the foot of their tottering 
 mast, regardless of the repairs needed in every part of her 
 rigging. But see I she scuds along, and, as I suspect her crew 
 to be b( nt on the commission of some evil deed, let us follow 
 ^'er to the first harbour. There rides the filthy thing ! The 
 ..'^emoon is half over. Her crew have thrown their boat over- 
 l;oard ; they enter and seat themselves, one with a rusty gun. 
 One of them sculls the sklfl' towards an island, for a century 
 past the breeding-place of myriads of guillemots, which are 
 now to be laid under contribution. At the approach of the vile 
 thieves, clouds of birds rise from the rock and fdl the air arotmd, 
 wheeling and screaming over their enemies ; yet thousands 
 remain in an erect posture, each covering its single egg, the 
 hope of both parents. The reports of several muskets loaded 
 with heavy shot are now heard, while several dead and wounded 
 birds fall heavily on tiio rock or into the water. Instantly all 
 the sitting birds rise and Hy oft' affrighted to their companion,'^ 
 auuve, and hover in dismay over tlieir assassins, \\ho walk 
 forward exultingly, and with their slionts mingling oaths and 
 execrations. Look at them ! See how they crush the cliieic 
 within its shell ! how they trample on every egg in their w ay 
 with their huge and clumsy boots ! Onwards they go, and when 
 tlfey leave the isle not an egg that they can iind is leit 
 entire. The dead birds they collect and carry to their boat. 
 Now they have regaincnl their lilthy shullop, they strip the 
 birds by a single jerk of their feathery api)arel, while the llesh 
 is yet warm, luid throw them on some coals, where in a sshoit 
 time they are broiled: the rum is produced when the guille- 
 mots are fit for eating, and after stiitling tliemselves with 
 this oily fare, and enjoying the pleasures of beastly iiitoxi- 
 
262 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 
 is*' 
 
 4^ 
 
 
 cation, over they tumble on the deck of their crazed craft, where 
 they i^ass the short hours of night in turbid slumber. The 
 sun now rises above the snow-clad summit of the eastern mount ; 
 * sweet is the breath of morn,' even in this desolate land. The 
 gay bunting erects his white crest, and gives utterance to the 
 joy he feels in the presence of his brooding mate ; the willow 
 grous on the rock crows his challenge aloud ; each floweret, 
 chilled by the night air, expands its pure petals ; the gentle 
 breeze shakes from the blades of grass the heavy dewdrops. 
 On the Guillemot Isle the birds have again settled, and now 
 renew their loves. Startled by the light of day, one of the 
 eggers springs on his feet, and rouses his companions, who 
 stare around them for awhile, endeavouring to recollect their 
 senses. Blavk them, as with clumsy fingers they clear their 
 drowsy eyes ; slowly they rise on their feet. See how the 
 lubbers stretch out their arms and yawn ; you shrink back, 
 for venly 'that throat might frighten a shark.' But the 
 master, soon recollecting that so many eggs are worth a dollar 
 or a crown, casts his eye towards tl;. rock, marks the day in 
 his memory, and gives orders to depart. The light breeze 
 enables them to reach another harbour, a few miles distant ; one 
 which, like the hM, lies concealed from the ocean by somo 
 other rocky isle. Arrived there, they react the scene ji 
 yesterday, crushing evtvy egg they can find. For a week e^ii 
 night is passed in drunkenness and brawls, until, having reached 
 the last breeding-place on the coast, they return, touch at every 
 isle in succession, shoot as many birds as they need, collect the 
 fresh eggs, anti lay in a cargo. At every step each ruffian picks 
 up an egg, so beautiful that any man with a feeling heart 
 would ^>ause to consider the motive which could induce him to 
 carry it off. But nothing of this sort occurs to the egger, who 
 gathers and gathers until he has swept the lock bare. Tlie 
 dollars alone chink in his sordid mind, and he assiduously plies 
 the trade which no man would ply who had the talents and 
 industry to procure subsistence by honourable means. With a 
 bark iiearly filled with fresh eggs they proceed to the principal 
 rock, that on which they first landed. But what is their surprise 
 when they find others there helping themselves as industriously 
 as they can ! In boiling rage they charge their guns, and ply 
 
 i 
 
A GANO OF DESPERADOI'^S. 
 
 2G3 
 
 crazed craft, where 
 bid slumber. Tlie 
 the eastern mount ; 
 Bsolate land. The 
 ?s utterance to the 
 
 mate ; the villow 
 d ; each floweret, 
 petals ; the gentle 
 e heavy dewdrops. 
 1 settled, and now 
 of day, one of the 
 
 companions, who 
 f to recollect their 
 8 they clear their 
 Det. See how the 
 
 you shrink back, 
 shark.' But the 
 are worth a dollar 
 :, marks the day in 
 The light breeze 
 miles distant ; one 
 le ocean by somn 
 eact the scene ji 
 For a week erc'i 
 til, having reac/ied 
 irn, touch at every 
 y need, collect the 
 
 each ruffian picks 
 h a feeling heart 
 mid induce him to 
 
 to the egger, who 
 
 lock bare. The 
 e assiduously plies 
 
 1 the talents and 
 
 J means. With a 
 
 d to the jirincipal 
 at is their surprise 
 
 s as industriously 
 oir guns, and ply 
 
 i 
 
 their oars. Landing on the rock, they run up to the oggers, 
 who, like themslves, are desperadoes. The first question is a 
 discharge of musketry ; the answer another . now, man to man, 
 they fight like tigers. One is carried to his craft with a frac- 
 tured skull, another limps with a shot in his leg, and a third 
 feels how many of his teeth have been driven through the hole 
 in his cheek. At last, however, the quarrel is settled, the booty 
 is to be equally divided ; and now see them all drinking 
 together. Oaths and curses and filthy jokes are all that you 
 hear ; but see ! stuffed with food, and reeling with drink, down 
 they drop, one by one ; groans and execrations from the 
 wounded mingle with the snorings of the heavy sleepers. 
 There let the brutes lie! Again it is dawn, but no one 
 stirs. The sun is high ; one by one they open their heavy 
 eyes, stretch their limbs, yawn and raise themselves from the 
 deck. But see a goodly company. A hundred honest fisher- 
 men, who for months past have fed on salt meat, have felt 
 a desire to procure some eggs. Gallantly their boats 
 advance, impelled by the regular pull of their long oars. 
 Each buoyant bark displays the flag of its nation. No weapon 
 do they bring, nor anything that can be used us such, save their 
 oars and fists. Cleanly clad in Sunday attire, they arrive at 
 tlie desired spot, and at once prepare to ascend the rock. The 
 eggers, now numbering a dozen, all armed with guns and 
 bludgeons, bid defiance to the fishermen. A few angry words 
 pass between the parties. One of the eggers, still under the 
 influence of drink, piills his trigger, and an unfortunate sailor is 
 seen to reel in agony. Three loud cheers fill the air. All at 
 once rush on the malefactors : a horrid fight ensues, the result 
 of which is that every egger is left on the rock beaten and 
 bruised. Too frequently the fishermen man their boats, row to 
 the shallops, and break every egg in the hold. The eggers of 
 Labrador not only rob the birds in this cruel manner, but also 
 tlie fishermen, whenever they can find an opportunity ; and the 
 o^uarrels they excite are numberless. While we were on the 
 coast none of our party ever ventured on any of the islands, 
 which these wretches call theiv own, without being well providiMl 
 lith means of defem.'e. On one occasion when 1 was present 
 Wf found two eggers at their work of do^lruetion. I spoke to 
 
2U4 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 m 
 
 them respecting my visit, and offered them premiums for rare 
 birds and some of their eggs; but although they made fair 
 promises, not one of the gang ever came near the Ripley. These 
 people gather all the eider-down they can find, yet, so incon- 
 siderate are they, that they kill every bird that comes in their 
 way. The puffins and some other birds they massacre in vast 
 numbers for the sake of their feathers. The eggs of gulls, 
 guillemots, and ducks are searched for with care also. So con- 
 stant and persevering are their depredations, that these species, 
 which, according to the accounts of the few settlers I saw in the 
 country, were exceedingly abundant twenty years ago, have 
 abandoned their ancient breeding-places, and removed much 
 farther north, in search of peaceful security. Scarcely, in fact, 
 could I procure a young guillemot before the eggers had left 
 the coast, nor was it until late in July that I succeeded, after 
 the birds had laid three or four eggs each instead of one, and 
 when nature having been exhausted, and the season nearly 
 spent, thousands of these birds left the country without having 
 accomplished the purpose for which they had visited it. This 
 war of extermination cannot last many years more. The eggers 
 themselves will be the first to repent the entire disappearance 
 of the myriads of birds that made the coast of Labrador their 
 sumir t:^ residence, and unless they follow the persecuted tribes 
 to the northward they must renounce their trade." 
 
 I 1 
 
CHAPTER XLV. 
 
 Notes in Labrador — Indians — Indian Camp — Civilities on Board thk 
 Quebec Cutter — The Fur Company — Severe Weather — Pictures 
 IN the Desert — Audubon begins to feel Old — Winds and IUin — 
 Excursions on Shore — Dreary Prospects — Hut of a Labrador 
 Seal-Catcher — Great Macatine Islands — Officers' Bivouac 
 Ashore. 
 
 "June 23. We met here two large boats loaded with Moun- 
 taineer Indians, about twenty, old and young, male and female. 
 The boats had small canoes lashed to their sides, like whale 
 boats, for seal fishing. The men were stout and good-lookinf-* 
 and spoke tolerable French, thoir skins wore redder and clearer 
 than any other Indians I have ever seen. The women also 
 appeared cleaner than usual, their hair was braided, and dangled 
 over their shoulders, like so many short ropes. They were all 
 dressed in European costumes except their feet, on which coarse 
 moccasins made of seal skin supplied the place of shoes. 
 
 " On leaving the harbour this morning, we saw a black man- 
 of-war-like looking vessel entering it, bearing the English flag ; 
 it proved to be the Quebec cutter. I wrote a note to the 
 commander, sent him my card, and requested an interview. 
 He proved to be Captain Bayfield of the Royal Navy, the vessel 
 was the Gulnare, and he replied that he would receive me in 
 two li lurs. After dinner, taking some credentials in my pocket, 
 I went aboard of tlie (Gulnare, was politely received, and in- 
 troduced to the surgeon, who seemed a man of ability, and is a 
 student of botany .md conchulogy. Thus the lovers of natin-e 
 
260 
 
 I-IFR OK AUDUBON. 
 
 m 
 
 CI 
 
 n, 
 
 3-2 «■• 
 
 i< 
 
 moot cvorywhoro, but surely I did not oxpoct to meet a nntn- 
 rulist on llio Liibnidor station. The tirst lioutonant is a stiidont 
 of ornitliolof>:y, and is making t'olloetions. I showed a letter 
 IVoin the Duke of Sus.sex to the captain, and after a pheasant 
 hour, and a i)roinise from him to do anything in hia power tu 
 aid us, I returned to our vessid. 
 
 " June 24. It was our intention to leave this harbour to-diiy 
 for one fifty miles east, but the wind is ahead, and I luive drawn 
 all day. Shattuch and I took a walk over the dreary hills 
 towards evening, and wo fouml several flowers in lijoom, ainoii;i; 
 whieh was a small species of the Knlnua Glauca. We visited 
 the camp of the ^Mountaineer Indians about half a mile from lis, 
 and found them skinning seals, and preparing their flesh for us. , 
 We saw a robe the size of a good blanket made of seal skin, 
 and tanned so soft and beautiful with the hair on, that it wns 
 as pleasant to the touch as a fine kid glove. They refused to 
 sell it. The chief of this pai'ty is well informed, talks French 
 so as to be understood, is a fine-looking fellow, about forty years 
 old, and has a good-looking wife and baby. His brother also is 
 married, and has st'veral sons between fourteen and twenty. 
 The whole group consists of about twenty persons. They canu' 
 and saluted us soon after we landed, and to my astonishment 
 offered us a glass of rum. Tiie women were all seated outside 
 of their tents, unpacking bundles of clothing and provisions. 
 We entered one tent, and seated ourselves before a blazing tire, 
 the smoke of which escaped through the top of the apartment. 
 To the many questions I put to the chief and his brother, tlio 
 following is the substance of his answers. 
 
 " The country from this place to the nearest settlement of 
 the Hudson Bay Company is as barren and rocky as this abont 
 us. Very large lakes of water abound two hundred miles 
 inland from the sea : these lakes contain carp, trout, white tisli, 
 and many mussels unfit to eat ; the latter are described as 
 black outside and purple within, and are no doubt ' unios.' "Sot 
 a bush is to be met with ; and the Indians who now and then 
 cross that region carry their tent-poles with them, and also 
 their canoes, and burn moss for fuel. 8o tedious is the travel- 
 ling said to be, that not more than ten mih^s a day can be 
 iiccomjtlished, and when the journey is made in two months, it 
 
VISIT TO THE GULNAIIE, 
 
 2(17 
 
 id couHidored u good quo. VVolvos and black boars abound, but 
 no door nor camboos are seen, and not a bird of any kind 
 except wild geivso and brants about tho lakes, whoro thoy 
 breed. When tho journey is undertaken in winter, they go on 
 snow shoiis, without canoes. Fur animals are scarce, but a few 
 beavers and otters, martins and sables, aro caught, and some 
 foxes and lynxes, while their numbers yearly diminish. Thus 
 tbe Fur Comj)any may bo called tho exterminating medium of 
 flic'80 wild and almost uninhabitable regions, which cupidity or 
 the love of money ah)ne wouhl induce man to venture into. 
 Wliore ran I now go and iind nature undisturbed? 
 
 " June 25. Drawing all day until five o'clock, when I went to 
 (lino on board tho Guliiaro ; quite a boro to shave and dress in 
 Labrador. Tho com^iany consisted of the captain, doctor, and 
 three other oflicers ; wo had a good sea dinner, du cot and du 
 mouton, de bon vin, et du tabac, excellent, of which I took a 
 piiicli or two. Conversation turned on botany, politics, and the 
 Established Church of England, and ranged away to hatching 
 oggs by steam. 1 saw the maps tho officers aro making of the 
 coast, and was struck with the great ao(!uracy of the shape oi" 
 our perfect harbour. 1 returned to our vessel at ten iu tho 
 evening; tho weather is warm, and the mosquitoes abundant 
 and hungry. 
 
 "June'li\ We have now been waiting five days for a fair 
 wind to take us eastward in oin- explorations. The waters of all 
 the streams we have seen ai*e of a rusty colour, probably derived 
 from the decomposing mosses which form the soil on tho rocks. 
 TJie rivers seem to bo the draia from swamps ft.'d by rain and 
 molting snow ; the soil in the low grounds is of quite a peaty 
 nature. The freshets take down sand and gravel from the de- 
 ('omp(»sed rocks, and form ba's at the mouths of all the rivers. 
 Below the month of each stream is the best fishing ground for 
 cod iish. They accumulate there to I'eed on the fry which 
 run into the rivers to dejjosit their spawn, and which they 
 follow again to sea, when they return to strike out into deep 
 water. 
 
 " It is quite remarkable how shy the agents of the Fur 
 CuMipany Ikm'o are of strangers. Tilery refused to sell me a 
 salmon ; anl ont; of them told me ho would be discharged if it 
 
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 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 were known he had done so. They evade all questions re- 
 specting the interior of the country, and indeed tell the most 
 absurd things to shock you, and cut short inquiries. This is 
 probably to prevent strangers from settling here, or interfering 
 with their monopoly." 
 
 Much of the journal of these dates in Labrador is taken up 
 with an account of the birds, and nests, and eggs found here, 
 and matters relating to ornithology. But as these notes were 
 used by Mr. Audubon in compiling his " Biographies of the 
 Birds," we have omitted them here, and used only that part 
 of the records which has a more general interest. 
 
 *' June 27. The morning dawned above rain and fogs, which 
 so enveloped us below that we could scarcely discern tlie shore, 
 distant only a hundred yards. Drawing all day. 
 
 "e/Mwe 28. The weather shocking, rainy, foggy, dark, and 
 cold. Began drawing a new finch I discovered, and outlined 
 another. At twelve the wind suddenly changed, and caused 
 such a swell and rolling of the vessel, that I had to give up my 
 drawing. After dinner the wind hauled to the south-west, and 
 all was bustle, heaving up anchor, loosing sails, and getting 
 ready for sea. We were soon under weigh, and went out of the 
 harbour in good style ; but the sea was high, and we were glad 
 to go to our beds. 
 
 " June 29. At three o'clock this morning we were about fifteen 
 miles from land, and fifty from American Harbour. The ther- 
 mometer was 54°, and the wind light and favourable ; at ten 
 the breeze freshened, but our pilot did not know the land, and 
 the captain had to find a harbour for himself. We passed near 
 an island covered with foolish guillemots, and came to for tlie 
 purpose of landing on it, which we did through a great surf; 
 there we found two eggers seai'ching the rocks for eggs. They 
 told us they visited all the islands in the vicinity, and obtained 
 fresh eggs every day. They had eight hundred dozen, and 
 expected to increase them to two thousand dozen before they 
 returned to Halifax. The quantities of broken eggs on this and 
 all the islands where eggs are obtained causes a stench wliioh 
 is scarcely endurable. From this island we went to another 
 about a mile distant, and caught many birds and collected 
 many eggs. 
 
3 all questions re- 
 leed tell the most 
 iaquiries. This ia 
 lere, or interfering 
 
 tibrador is taken up 
 ftcl eggs found here, 
 IS tliese notes were 
 Biographies of the 
 sed only that part 
 irest. 
 
 lin and fogs, which 
 r discern the shore, 
 day. 
 
 foggy, dark, and 
 'ered, and outlined 
 mged, and caused 
 had to give up my 
 ;he south-west, and 
 sails, and getting 
 ,nd went out of the 
 
 and we were glad 
 
 3 were about fifteen 
 irbour. The thor- 
 uvourable ; at ten 
 now the land, and 
 We passed near 
 
 came to for the 
 igh a great surf; 
 
 for eggs. They 
 lity, and obtained 
 ndred dozen, and 
 dozen before tliey 
 1 eggs on this and 
 ;s a stench wliioh 
 went to another 
 'ds and collected 
 
 SUMMER IN LABRADOR. 
 
 2G9 
 
 "Jttwe 30. I have drawn three birds to-day since eight 
 o'clock. Thermometer 50°. 
 
 " July 1. The thermometer 48°, and the weather so cold that 
 it has been painful for me to draw, but I worked all day. 
 
 " Jnly 2. A beautiful day for Labrador. Went ashore and 
 Ivilled nothing, but was pleased with what I saw. The country 
 is so grandly wild and desolate, that I am charmed by its 
 wonderful dreariness. Its mossy gray-clad rocks, heaped and 
 thrown together in huge masses, hanging on smaller ones, as if 
 about to roll down from their insecure resting-places into the sea 
 below them. Rays without end, sprinkled with thousands of 
 rocky inlets of all sizes, shapes, and appearances, and wild birds 
 everywhere, was the scene presented before me. Besides this 
 there was a peculiar cast of the uncertain sky, butterflies flitting 
 over snow-banks, and probing unfolding dwarf flowerets of many 
 hues pushing out their tender stems through the thick beds of 
 moss which everywhere cover the granite rock. Then there is 
 the morass, wherein you plunge up to your knees, or the walking 
 over the stubborn, dwarfish shrubbery, whereby one treads 
 down the forests of Labrador ; and the unexpected bunting or 
 sylvia whicli perchance, and indeed as if by chance alone, you 
 now and then see flying before you, or hear singing from the 
 groiuid creeping plant. The beautiful fresh-water lakes, de- 
 posited on the rugged crests of greatly elevated islands, wherein 
 the red and black divers swim as proudly as swans do in other 
 latitudes; and wherein the fish appear to have been cast as 
 strayed beings from the surplus food of the sea. All, all is 
 wonderfully wild and grand, ay, terrific. And yet ho\v beauti- 
 ful it is now, when your eye sees the wild bee, moving from one 
 flower to another in search of food, which doubtless is as sweet 
 to her as the ussence of the orange and magnolia is to her 
 more favoured sister in Louisiana. The little ring-plover 
 roaring its delicate and tender young ; the eider duck swimming 
 nmn-of-war-like amid her floating brood, like the guard-ship of 
 a most valuable convoy ; the white-crowned bunting's sonorous 
 note reaching your ears ever and anon ; the crowds of sea-birds 
 in search of places wherein to repose or to feed. I say how 
 beautiful all this, in this wonderful rocky desert at this season, 
 " July, compared with the horrid blasts of winter 
 
 jojiuuuni 
 
270 
 
 LIFE OP AUDUBON. 
 
 <ti I 
 
 iflfll;.' 
 
 ,':TV 
 
 which hero predominate by the will of God ; when every 
 rock is hidden beneath snow so deep, that every step the 
 traveller takes, he is in danger of falling into his grave ; while 
 avalanches threaten him from above, and if he lifts his eyes to 
 the horizon, he sees nothing but dark clouds filled with frost 
 and snow, and inspiring him with a feeling of despair. 
 
 " July 3. Wo have had a stiff easterly wind all day, rainy, 
 and the water so rough we could not go ashore, for plants to 
 draw, until late in the afternoon. Tlie view of the sea from tho 
 highest rocks was grand, the small islands were covered with 
 tho foam and surf thrown up by the agitated ocean. Thank 
 God that we are not tossing on its billows. 
 
 " July 4. Two parties went out to-day to get birds and plants, 
 and I remained on board all day drawing. Captain Bayfield 
 sent us a quarter of mutton for our fourth of July dinner, and I 
 dare say it is a rarity on this coast of Labrador, even on this 
 day. 
 
 " July 5. Thermometer 50°. I drew from four o'clock this 
 morning until three this afternoon, and then went on an 
 expedition for a few miles to a large rough island, which I 
 traversed until I was weary, for walking on this spongy moss of 
 Labrador is a task no one can imagine without trying it ; at 
 every step the foot sinks in a deep moss cushion, which closes 
 over it, and requires considerable exertion to draw it up. When 
 the moss is over a marshy tract, then you sink a couple of feet 
 deep every step you take, and to reach a bare rock is delightful, 
 and quite a relief. This afternoon the country looked more 
 terrifyingly wild than ever, the dark clouds throwing their 
 shadows on the stupendous masses of rugged rocks, presented 
 one of the wildest pictures of nature that tho eye can find to 
 look on anywhere. 
 
 "July 6. Thermometer 48°. At noon my fingers were so 
 cold that I could no longer hold my pencil to draw, and I was 
 compelled to go on shore for exercise. The fact is I am growing 
 old too fast, alas ! I feel it, and yet work I will, and may God 
 grant me life to see the last plate of my mammoth work 
 finished. 
 
 " July 7. Drawing all day ; finished the female grouse and 
 five young ones, and preparing the male bird. 
 
STORMY WEATHFK. 
 
 271 
 
 " July 8. Rainy, dirty weather, wind east, thermometer 48°. 
 Began drawing at half-past three a.m, bnt my condition very 
 disagreeable in such weather. The fog collects and falls in large 
 drops from the rigging on my table, and now and then I am 
 oldiged to close the skylight, and work almost in darkness. Not- 
 withstanding, I have finished my plate of the cock ptarmigan. 
 
 " Juhj 9. The wind east, wet, disagreeable, and foggy. This 
 is the most wonderful climate in the world ; the thermometer 
 52°, mosquitoes in profusion, plants blooming by millions, and 
 at every step you tread on ilowera such as would be locked on 
 ill more temperate climates with pleasure. I only wish I could 
 describe plants as well as I can the habits of birds. I have 
 drawn all day on the loon, a most difficult bird to imitate. 
 
 " July 10. Thermometer 54°. Could I describe one of those 
 dismal gales which blow ever and anon over this dismal 
 country, it would probably be interesting to any one unac- 
 quainted with the inclemency of this climate. Nowhere else 
 are the north-east blasts, which sweep over Labrador, felt as 
 they are hei-e. But I caimot describe them. All I can say is, 
 that while we are safe in a land-locked harbour, their eiTects on 
 our vessel are so strong, thot they will not allow mb to draw, 
 and sometimes send some of us to our beds. And what the 
 force of these ?'orrid blasts outside of the harbour at sea is I 
 can hardly imagine ; but it soenis as if it would be impossible 
 for any vessel to ride safely before them, and that they will 
 rend these rocky islands asunder. The rain is driven in sheets, 
 and falls with difficulty upon its destination of sea or land. 
 Nay, I cannot call it rain, as it is such a thick cloud of water, 
 that all objects at a distanc-e are lost sight of at intervals of 
 three or four minutes, and the waters around us come up and 
 beat about in our rock-bound harbour, as a newly caught and 
 caged bird boats against the wire walls of his prison cage. 
 
 "July 11. The gale or hurricane of yesterday subsided about 
 niiflnifrht, and nt sunrise this morning the sky was clear and 
 tliu horizon tiery red. It was my intention to have gone one 
 hundred miles further north, but our captain says I must bo 
 content here. 
 
 " On rambling over the numerous bays and inlets, which are 
 scattered by thousands along this coast, as pebbles are on a 
 
272 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 mm> 
 
 jTi: 
 
 * ^::l.;' 
 
 1 ■':::::i' 
 
 common sand beach, one sees immense beds of round stones 
 (boulders ?) of all sizes, and some of largo dimensions, rolled 
 side by side, and piled up in heaps, as if cast there by some 
 great revolution of nature. I have seen many such places, and 
 always look on them with astonishment, because they seem to 
 have been vomited up by the sea, and cast hundreds of yards 
 inland, by its powerful retchings ; and this gives some idea of 
 what a hurricane at Labrador can do. 
 
 " Juhj 12. Thermometer 48°, and it is 
 
 ramnig 
 
 hard, and 
 
 blowing another gale from the east, and the vessel rocks so 
 much that I am unable to finish my drawing. 
 
 " July 13. Koso this morning at half-past three, and found 
 the wind north-east, and but little of it. The weather is cloudy 
 and dull, as it is always here after a storm. I was anxious to 
 stay on board, and finish the drawing of a grouse I had promised 
 to Dr. Kelly of the Gulnare. But at seven the wind changed, 
 and we prepared to leave our fine harbour. We beat out to sea, 
 and made our course for the harbour of Little Macatine, distant 
 forty-three miles. By noon the wind died away, but the sea 
 rolled, and we were all sea-sick, and glad to go to our berths. 
 
 " Juhj 14. Awoke this morning to find a cold north-east wind 
 blowing, and ourselves twenty miles from our destination, a 
 heavy sea beating against the vessel's bows, as she is slowly 
 beating tack after tack against the wind. We are in despair of 
 reaching our destination to-day. Towards evening however the 
 wind favoured us, and as we approached the island, it proved 
 the highest land we have seen, and, looked rugged and horrid. 
 
 " When we came within a mile and a half of the shore we 
 took a small boat, and pushed off for the land. As we came 
 near it, the rocks appeared stupendously high and rough, and 
 frowned down on our little boat, as we moved along and doubled 
 tlie little cape which made ofae side of the entrance of Macatine's 
 Harbour, but it looked so small to me, that I doubted if it were 
 the place ; and the shores were horribly wild, fearfully high 
 and rough, and nothing but the croaking of a pair of ravens was 
 heard mingling with the dismal sound of the surge which 
 dashed on the rocky ledges, and sent the foaming water into 
 the air. 
 
 "By the time we reached the shore the wind began to 
 
 mm 
 
 m 
 
CLIMBING A MOUNTAIN. 
 
 273 
 
 ic wind began to 
 
 freshen, the Ripley's sails now swelled, and she cut her way 
 through the water, and rounded the point of land which formed 
 part of the harbour, and shot ahead towards the place where we 
 were standing. Our harbour represents the bottom of a large 
 bowl, in the centre of which our vessel is anchored, surrounded 
 by rocks full a thousand . feet high, and the wildest-looking 
 place I was ever in. We went aboard, ate a hasty supper, and 
 all scampered ashore again, and climbed the nearest hills. But 
 John, Shattuck, and myself went up the harbour, and ascended 
 to the top of a mountain (for I cannot call it a hill), and there 
 we saw the crest of the island beneath our feet, all rocks, 
 barren, bare rocks, wild as the wildest Apennines. The moss 
 was only a few inches deep, and the soil beneath it so moist, 
 that whenever the declivities were much inclined, the whole 
 slipped from under us like an avalanche, and down we would 
 slide for feet, and sometimes yards. The labour of climbing 
 was excessive, and at the bottom of each ravine the scrub 
 bushes intercepted us for twenty or thirty paces, and we 
 scrambled over them with great effort and fatigue. On our 
 return we made one slide of forty or fifty feet, and brought up 
 itt a little valley or pit filled with moss and mire. 
 
 " Jvly 15. We rose and breakfasted at three o'clock, every 
 one being eager to go ashore and explore this wild country. 
 But the wind was east, and the prospects of fine weather not 
 good. But two boats' crews of young men lowed off in different 
 directions, while I renewed my drawing. By ten the rain 
 poured, and the boats returned. 
 
 "July 16. Another day of dirty weather, and obliged to 
 remain on board nearly all the day. Thermometer 5ii°, mos- 
 quitoes plenty. This evening the fog is so thick, that we 
 cannot see the summit of the rocks around us. 
 
 " July 17. Mosquitoes so annoyed me last night that I did 
 not close my eyes. I tried the deck of the vessel, and although 
 the fog was as thick as fine rain, the air was filled with these 
 insects, and I went below and fought them until daylight, when 
 I had a roaring fire made and got rid of them. I have been 
 drawing part of the day, and besides several birds, I have out- 
 lined one of the mountainous hills near our vessel, as a back- 
 ground to my willow grouse. 
 
 T 
 
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 tMI 
 
 III A 
 
 
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 i^^-ii^;!' 
 
 .y,ii'; 
 
 274 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 " July 18. After breakfast, all bands except the cook left the 
 Eipley, in three boats, to visit the main shore, about five miles 
 off. The fog was thick, but the wind promised fair weather, 
 and soon fulfilled its promise. Directly after landing our party 
 found a large extent of marsh land, the first we have seen in 
 this country ; the soil was wet, our feet sank in it, and walking 
 was tiresome. We also crossed a large savannah of many miles 
 in extent. Its mosses were so wet and spongy, that I never in 
 my life before experienced so much difficulty in travelling. In 
 many places the soil appeared to wave and bend under us like 
 old ice in the spring of the year, and we expected at each step 
 to break through the surface, and sink into the mire below. In 
 the middle of this quagmire we met with a fine small grove of 
 good-sized white birch trees, and a few pines full forty feet higji, 
 quite a novelty in this locality. 
 
 " From the top of a high rock I obtained a good view of the 
 most extensive and dreary wilderness I ever beheld. It chilled 
 the heart to gaze on these barrens of Labrador. Indeed I now 
 dread every change of harbour, so horridly rugged and dangerous 
 is the whole coast and country to the eye, and to the experienced 
 man either of the sea or the land. Mosquitoes, many species of 
 horse-flies, small bees, and black gnats fill the air. The frogs 
 croaked, and yet the thermometer was not above 55°. This is 
 one of the real wondei*s of this extraordinary country. Tlie 
 parties in the boats, hunting all day, brought back but nineteen 
 birds, and we all concluded that no one mail could provide food 
 for himself here from the land alone. 
 
 " July 19. Cold, wet, blowing, and too mu(;h motion of tlie 
 vessel for drawing. In the evening it cleared up a little, and I 
 went ashore, and visited the hut of a seal-fisher. We climbed 
 over one rocky precipice and fissure after another, holding on to 
 the moss with both hands and feet, for about a mile, when we 
 came to the deserted hut of a Labrador seal-catcher. It looked 
 snug outside, and we walked in ; it was floored witli short slabs, 
 all very well greased with seal oil. A fire-oven without a pipti 
 a salt-box hung to a wooden peg, a three-legged stool for a 
 table, and wooden box for a bedstead, were all its furniture, 
 An old flour-barrel, containing somo hundreds of seine floats, 
 and an old seal seine, comprised the assets of goods and chattels. 
 
 ThK 
 in p 
 
 W00{ 
 
 for n 
 
 the I 
 
 Itwj 
 
 moss 
 
 evorj 
 
 deser 
 
 scale 
 
 good 
 
 print 
 
 habit 
 
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 M26 
 
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 times 
 
 preci 
 
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 surgei 
 
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 any ^ 
 
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A DESERTED HUT. 
 
 275 
 
 Three small windows, with four panes of glass each, were still 
 in pretty good order, and so was the low door, which swung on 
 wooden hinges, for which I will be bound the maker had asked 
 for no patent. The cabin was made of hewn logs, brought from 
 [ the mainland, about twelve feet square, and well put together. 
 It was rooi ^d with birch bark and spruce, well thatched with 
 moss a foot thick ; every chink was crammed with moss, and 
 every aperture rendered air-tight with oakum. But it was 
 deserted and abandoned. The seals are all caught, and the 
 sealers have nothing to do now-a-dnys. We found a pile of 
 good hard wood close to the cabin, and this we hope to appro- 
 priate to-morrow. I found out that the place had been in- 
 habited by two Canadians, by the chalk marks on the walls, 
 and their almanac on one of the logs ran thus : L 24, M 25, 
 U 26, 1 27, V 28, S 29, D 30, giving the first letter of the day 
 of the week. On returning to the vessel, I stopped several 
 times to look on the raging waves rolling in upon these 
 precipitous rocks below us, and thought how dreadful it would 
 be for any one to be wrecked on this inhospitable shore. The 
 surges of surf which rolled in on the rocks were forty or fifty 
 feet high where they dashed on the precipices beneath us, and 
 any vessel cast ashore there must have been immediately 
 dashed to pieces. 
 
 *' July 20. The country of Labrador desei-ves credit for one 
 fine day. This has been, until evening, calm, warm, and really 
 such a day as one might expect in the middle states about the 
 mirldle of May. I drew until ten o'clock, and then made a trip 
 to the island next to us, and shot several birds. We passed 
 several small bays, where we found vast quantities of stones 
 thrown up by the sea, and some of them of enormous size. I 
 now think that these stones are brought from the sea on the 
 thick drift ice, or icebergs, which come down from the arctic 
 regions, and are driven in here and broken by the jagged rocks ; 
 they are stranded, and melt, and leave these enormous pebbles 
 in layers from ten to one hundred feet deep. 
 
 " July 21. I write now from a harbour which has no name, 
 for we have mistaken it for the one we were looking for, which 
 lies two miles east of this. But it matters little, for the coast 
 of Labrador is all alike, comfortless, cold, and foggy. We left 
 
 T 2 
 
,1 '■ / 
 
 % 
 
 276 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON 
 
 the Little Afacatine this morning at five o'clock, with a etiffl 
 sonth-west breeze, and by ten dropped anchor where we now are, [ 
 As we doubled the cape of the island called Great Macatinf, 
 we had the pleasure of meeting the officers of the Gulnare, inl 
 two boats, engaged in surveying the coast. We made as| 
 excursion into the island, but found nothing of interest. 
 
 " In the evening we visited the officers of the Gulnare, enl 
 camped in tents on shore, living in great comfort ; the tea- 
 things were yet on the iion bedstead which served as a table,! 
 the trunks formed their seats, and the clothes-bags their cushionsl 
 and pillows. Their tent was made of tarred cloth, which adi 
 mitted neither wind nor rain. It was a comfortable camp, audi 
 we were pleased to find ourselves oji the coast of Labrador inl 
 company with intelligent officers of the royal navy of England, [ 
 gentlemen of education and refined manners; it was indeed al 
 treat, a precious one. We talked of the wild country around I 
 us, and of the enormous destruction of everything which ul 
 going on h^re, except of the rocks ; of the aborigines, who arel 
 melting away before the encroachments of a stronger race, aj| 
 the wild animals are disappearing before them. Some onej 
 said, it is rum which is destroying the poor Indians. I replied,! 
 I think not, they are disappearing here from insufficiency of| 
 food and physical comforts, and the loss of all hope, as he lo 
 sight of all that was abundant before ihe white man came, I 
 intruded on his land, and his herds of wild animals, and deprived! 
 him of the furs with which he clothed himself. Nature herseli'l 
 is perishing. Labrador must shortly be depopulated, not only! 
 of her aboriginal men, but of every thing and animal which 1 
 life, and attracts the cupidity of men. When her fish, audi 
 game, and birds are gone, she will be left alone like an old I 
 worn-out field." 
 
CHAPTEU XLVI. 
 
 Notes in Labrador — Whalers — Skal-killino — Esquimaux Doas — IJinus 
 AND Animals of Labrador — A Seal Station — Cras d'Or Haruouu — 
 The Fishers — Ksquimaux Sledues and Dogs — No. es in the L\- 
 TERIOR — Young IJirds — Hurricanes — Icebergs — Glimphkh of the 
 Trees — Notes on Natural History, 
 
 "i/M?y 22. This morning Captain Bayfield and Lis officers 
 came alongside to bid us good-bye, to pursue their labours 
 further westward. After breakfast we manned three boats, and 
 went to explore a small harbour about one mile east of our 
 anchorage. There we found a whaling schooner, fifty-five tons 
 burthen, from Cape Gaspe. We found the men employed in 
 boiling blubber in a large iron vessel like a sugar-boiler. The 
 blubber lay in heaps on the shore, in junks of six or eight 
 pounds each, looking filthy enough. The captain or owner of 
 the vessel appeared to be a good sensible man of his class, and 
 cut off for me some strips of the whale's skin from under the 
 tliroat, with large and curious barnacles attached to the skin. 
 They liad struck four whales, and three had sunk, and were lost 
 to them. Tliis, the men said, was a very rare occurrence. We 
 found, also, at this place, a French Canadian seal-catcher, from 
 whom I gathex-ed the following information. 
 
 " This portion of Labrador is free to any one to settle on, and 
 he and another person had erected a cabin, and had nets and 
 traps to catch seals and foxes, and guns to shoot bears and 
 wolves. They take their quarry to Quebec, receiving fifty cents 
 a gallon for seal oil, and from three to five guineas for black 
 
278 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 
 < \: 
 
 ^^ 
 
 
 n 
 
 
 •i, 
 
 
 Tl, ' . 
 
 and silvftr fox skinn, and othew in proportion. In the months 
 of Novombor and December, and indeed until sprinp, they kill 
 seals in largo numbers ; seventeen men Indonging to their party 
 killed twenty-five hundred seals onoo in three days. This great 
 feat was done with short sticks, and each seal was kille<l with u 
 single blow on the snout, whilst lying on the edges of tlio 
 floating or field ice. The seals are carrieil home on sledges 
 drawn by Esquimaux dogs, which are so well trained that, on 
 reaching homo, they push the seals from the sledges with their 
 noses, and return to the killers with regidar despatch. (This, 
 reader, is hearsay !) At other times the seals are driven into 
 nets, one after another, until the poor animals become so 
 hampered and confined, that they are easily and quickly dis- 
 patched with guns. The captain showed me a spot, within a 
 few yards of his log cabin, where last winter he caught six finu 
 large silver-gray foxes. Bears and caraboos abound duriiii,' 
 winter, and also wolves, hares, and porcupines. The wolves 
 are of a dun colour, very ferocious and daring ; a pack of thirty 
 followed a man to his cabin, and they have several times killed 
 his dogs at his own door. I was surprised at this, because his 
 dogs were as large as any wolves I have ever seen. These dogs 
 are extremely tractable, so much so that, when geared into a 
 sledge, the loader immediately starts at the word of command 
 for any given course, and the whole pack gallop off at the rate 
 of seven or eight miles an hour. The Esquimaux dogs howl 
 like wolves, and are not at all like our common dogs. They 
 were extremely gentle, and came to us, and jumped on and 
 caressed us as if we were old acquaintances. They do not take 
 to the water, and are fit only for draught and the chase of 
 caraboos ; and they are the only dogs which can at all near the 
 caraboo while running. 
 
 " As soon as winter storms and thick ice closes the harbours 
 and the intermediate spaces between the mainland and the sea 
 islands, the caraboos are seen moving on the ice in great herds, 
 first to the islands, where the snow is most likely to be drifted, 
 because there in the shallows — from which the snow has blown 
 away — he easily scrapes down to the mosses, which at this 
 season are the only food they can find. As the severity of 
 winter increases, those animals follow the coast north-west, and 
 
 
A REAL-CATCH. NO KSTAlJMSHMKNT. 
 
 270 
 
 prndually roach a (H)mparativrly milder c^liinato. But notwith- 
 Htiinding all thin, on tlioir rt'turn in the Hpring, which is as 
 regular as tho migration of tho hirdu, they aro bo poor and 
 emaciated, that tlio men take pity on them, and will not kill 
 them. Merciful heings, these white men! They Hparo life 
 when tho flesh is ofV from their bones, and there is no market 
 fur their bones at hand. 
 
 "The otter is tolerably abundant here. These are chiefly 
 trapped at tlu* foot of tho waterfalls, to which they resort, being 
 the latest to freeze, and the earliest to thaw in spring. A few 
 martins and sables aro caught, but every year reduces their 
 number. This Frenchman receives his supplies from Quebec, 
 where ho sends his furs and oil. Tho present time ho calls 
 'the idle season,' and he loiters about his cabin, li('8 in tho huu- 
 shine like a seal, eats, drinks, and sleeps his life away, careless 
 of the busy world, and of all that is going on there. His 
 partner has gone to Quebec, and his dogs aro his only com- 
 panions until ho returns ; and the dogs, perliaps, are the better 
 animal of the two. He has selected a delightful site for his 
 castle, under the protection of an island, and on the south side, 
 where I found the atmosphere quite warm, and the vegetation 
 actually rank, for I saw planta with leaves twelve inches broad, 
 and grasses three feet high. 
 
 " This afternoon tlie wind has been blowing a tremendous 
 gale, and our anchors have dragged with sixty fathoms of chain 
 out. Yet one of the whaler's boats came with six men to pay 
 us a visit. They wished to see some of my drawings, and I 
 gratified them ; and in return they promised to show me a 
 whale before it was cut up, should they catch one before we 
 leave tliis place for Bras d'Or. 
 
 ^'Juhj 23. We visited to-day the seal establishment of a 
 Scotchman, named Kobertson, about six railjj east of our 
 anchorage. He received us politely, addressed me by nam ?, 
 and told me he had received information of my visit to this 
 country through the English and Canadian newcpapers. This 
 man has resided here twenty years, and married a Labrador 
 lady, ihe daughter of a Monsieur Chevalier of Bras d'Or; has a 
 family of six cliihlren, and a good-looking wife. He has a 
 comfortable house, and a little garden, in which he raises a few 
 
) 
 
 '■ > 
 
 280 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 i\ !' 
 
 turnips, potatoes, and other vegetables. He appeared to be 
 lord of all these parts, and quite contented with his lot. He 
 told me that his profits last year amounted to three thousand 
 dollars. He does not trade with the Indians, of whom we saw 
 about twenty of the Mountaineer tribe, and he has w hite men- 
 servants. His seal-oil tubs were full, and he wa^ then engaged 
 in loading a schooner bound to Quebec. He complained of the 
 American fishermen, and said they often acted as badly us 
 pirates towards the Indians, the white settlers, and the egger-s, 
 all of whom have more than once retaliated, when bloody com- 
 bats have followed. He assured me that he had seen a fisher- 
 man's crew kill thousands of guillemots in a day, pluck off tiieir 
 feathere, and throw their bodies into the sea. 
 
 " Mr. Robertson also told me that, during mild winters, his 
 little harbour is covered with thousands of white gulls, and that 
 they all leave on the approach of spring. The travelling here 
 is altogether over the ice, v/hich is covered with snow, and in 
 sledges drawn by Esquimaux dogs, of which this ma^: keeps u 
 famous pack. He often goe.j to Bras d' Or, seventy-five 
 miles distant, with his wife and children on one sledge, drawn 
 by ten dogs. Scarcely any travelling is done on land, tlie 
 country is so precipitous and broken. Fifteen miles north of 
 here he says there is a lake, represented by the Indians as four 
 hundred miles long and one hundred broad, and that this sea- 
 like lake id at times as rough as the ocean in a storm. It 
 abounds with fish, and some water-birds resort there, and breed 
 by millions along its margin. We have had a fine day, hut 
 Mr. E. says that the summer has been unusually tempestuous. 
 The caraboo flies drove our hunters on board to-day, and they 
 looked as bloody as if they had act ally had a gouging fight 
 with some rough Kontuckians. Here we found on this wonder- 
 ful wild coast some newspapers from the United States, and 
 received the latest intelligence from Boston to be had at 
 Labrador." 
 
 Jvli/ 24 and 25 were engaged in hunting birds and drawing, 
 and contain much valuable information on ornithology, w.hieli 
 is given in the '' Birds of America." 
 
 " July 26. We left our anchorage, and sailed with a fair wind 
 to visit the Chevalier's settlement, called Bonne Esperancc, 
 
BRAS D'OR HARBOUR. 
 
 281 
 
 ornitliolugy, wliicli 
 
 fortv-seven miles distant. When two-thirds of the distance had 
 been gone over the wind failed us; calms were followed by- 
 severe squalls, and a tremendous sea rolled, which threatened 
 to shake our masts out. At eight o'clock, however, we came 
 abreast of the settlement, but as our pilot knew nothing of the 
 harbour, the captain thought it prudent to stand off, and proceed 
 on to Bras d'Or. The coast here, like all that we have seen 
 before, was dotted with rocky islands of all sizes and forms, and 
 against which the raging waves dashed in a frightful manner, 
 making us shudder at the thoiight of the fate of the wretched 
 mariners who might be thrown on them. 
 
 " July 27. At daylight this morning we found ourselves at the 
 mouth of Bras d'Or Harbour, where we are now snugly moored. 
 We hoisted our colours, and Captain Billingy, of American 
 Harbour, came to us in his Hami)ton boat, and piloted us in. 
 This Bras d'Or is the grand rendezvous of almost all the fislier- 
 men, that resort to this coast for cod-fish ; and we found here h 
 flotilla of one hundred and fifty sails, principally foro-and-aft 
 scLooners, and mostly from Halifax and the eastern parts of 
 the United States. 
 
 " There was a life and bustle in the harbour which surprised 
 us, after so many weeks of wilderness and loneliness along tl e 
 rocky coast. Boats were moving to and fro over the wliole bay, 
 going after fislt, and returning loaded to the gunwale ; some 
 'vith seines, others with caplings, for bait, and a hundred or 
 more anchored out about a mile from us, hauling the poor cod- 
 fish by tliousands, and hundreds of men engaged in cleanin<'' 
 iiud salting them, and enlivening their work with Billingsgate 
 slang, and stories, and songs. 
 
 " As soon as breakfast was over we went ashore, and called on 
 Mr. Jones, tbe owner of the seal-fishing establishment here, a 
 rough, brown-looking Xova-Scotia man, who received us well, 
 ami gave us considerable information respecting the birds which 
 visit his neighbourhood. This man has forty Esouimaux dogs, 
 and he entertained us with an account of his travels with them 
 in winter. They are harnessed with a leather collar, belly and 
 back bands, through the upper part of which the line of seal- 
 skin pnssos which is attached to the sledge, and it serveit^ the 
 double purpose of a rein and trace to draw with. An odd 
 

 .'M, 
 
 m 
 
 t 
 
 i i 
 
 II 
 
 u 
 
 282 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 number '/f dogs is used for the gang employed in drawing the 
 sledge, ':iie number varying according to tlie distance to be 
 travelled or the load to be carried. Each dog is ^sstimated to 
 carry two himdred pounds, and to travel with that load at the 
 rate of five or six miles an hour. The leader, which is always a 
 well-broken dog, is placed ahead of the pack, with a draft 
 line of from six to ten fathoms in length, and the rest M'ith 
 successively shorter ones, until they come to within eight feet of 
 the sledge. They are not coupled, however, as they are usually 
 represented i» engravings, but are attached each loose from ai! 
 others, so tliat when they are in motion, travelling, they appear 
 like a flock of partridges all flying loosely, and yet all the sa.-Qe 
 course. They always travel in a gallop, no matter what che 
 state of the country may be. Going down hill is most difficult 
 and dangciuus, and at times it is necessary for the ridt^r to 
 guide the sledge with his feet, as boys steer their sleds sliding 
 down hills, and sometimes it is done by long poles stuck into 
 the snow. When the sledge is heavily laden, and the descent 
 steep, the dogs are often taken off, and the vehicle made to 
 slide down the precipice by the man alone, who lies flat on the 
 sledge, and guides it with his toes from behind, as he descends 
 head foremost. The dogs are so well acrjiainted with the 
 courses and places in the neighbourhood, tliat they never fail 
 to take their master and his sledge to the house where he 
 wishes them to go, even should a severe snow-storm come on 
 while they are on the journey; and it ;'s al vays safer for the 
 rider at such times to trust to the instincts of the dogs, than to 
 attempt to guide them by his own jiiojrraeiit. Cases have 
 occurred where men have done this, and paid the penalty by 
 freezing to death in a desolate wilderness. In such cases the 
 faithful dogs, if left to tliemselves, malce directly for their 
 home. 
 
 " When two travellers meet on a jjurney, it is necessary for 
 both parties to come circuitously and slowly towards each other, 
 and give the separate packs the opportunity of observing that 
 their masters are acqiuiinted, or otherwise a fight might en>ue 
 between tlie dogs. ]\Ir. Jones lost a son, fourteen years of age, 
 a few years ago iu the snow, in consequence of a servant 
 imprudently turning the dog» from their course, thinking they 
 
ESQUIMAUX DOGS. 
 
 283 
 
 yed in drawing the 
 the distance to be 
 log is -^istimated to 
 ,h that load at the 
 r, which is always a 
 pack, with a draft 
 , and the rest with 
 within eight feet of 
 as they are usually 
 each loose from al! 
 spelling, they appear 
 nd yet all the sa/ae 
 o matter what the 
 hill is most diftcult 
 ry for the ridt^r to 
 ■ their sleds sliding 
 ng poles stuck into 
 3n, and the descent 
 le vehicle made to 
 who lies flat on the 
 ini, as he descends 
 'CjUainted with the 
 hat they never fail 
 le house where he 
 now-storm come on 
 1 vays safer for the 
 )f the dogs, than to 
 iient Cases have 
 lid the penalty by 
 In such cases tlie 
 directly for their 
 
 , it is necessary for 
 towards each other, 
 y of observing that 
 I fight might ensue 
 urteen years of age, 
 ien*je of a servant 
 turse, thinking they 
 
 were wrong. • The dogs obeyed the command, and took them 
 towards Hudson's Bay. When the weather cleared the servant 
 found his mistake ; but, alas ! it was too late for the tender 
 boy, and he froze to death in the servant's arms. 
 
 " We saw also to-day the carcasses of fifteen hundred seals 
 stripped of their skins, piled up in a heap, and the dogs feeding 
 on them. The stench filled the air for half a mile around. 
 They tell us the dogs feed on this filthy flesh until the next 
 seal season, tearing it piecemeal when frozen in winter. 
 
 " Mr. Jones's house was being painted white, his oil-tubs 
 were full, and the whole establishment was perfumed with 
 odouiti which were not agreeable to my olfactory nerves. The 
 snow is to be seen in large patches on every hill around us, 
 while the borders of the water-courses are fringed with grasses 
 and weeds as rank as any to be found in the middle states in 
 like situations. I saw a small brook with fine tro'i.t, but what 
 pleased me more was to find the nest of the shore-lark ; it was 
 embedded in moss, so exactly the colour of the bird, tliat when 
 the mother sat on it, it was impossible to distinguish her. We 
 see Newfoundland in the distance, looking like high moun- 
 tains, whose summits -^re far above the clouds at present. Two 
 weeks since the harbour where we now are was an ice-field, 
 and not a vessel could approach it ; siuce then the ice has sunk, 
 and none is to be seen far or near. 
 
 "July 28. A tremendous gale has blown all day, and I have 
 been drawing. The captain and the rest of our company went 
 oft' in the storm to visit Blanc Sablons, four miles distant. TJie 
 fishermen have corrupted tl;e French name into the English of 
 " Nancy Belong." Towards evening the storm abated, and 
 although it is now almost calm, the sea runs high, and the 
 liipley rolls in a way which makes our suppers rest unquietly 
 in our stomachs. We have tried in vain to get some Esquimaux 
 nio'assiiis and robes ; and we also asked to hire one of them, 
 to act ah' a guide for thirty or forty miles into the interior. 
 The cliiei' said his son might go, a boy of twenty-tl. .f»e, but he 
 would have to ask his mother, as she was always fearing some 
 accident to her darling. This darling son looked more like a 
 brute than a Christian man, and was so daring, that he would 
 not venture on oui' journey. 
 

 
 284 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 ■ i < ■\\^ 
 
 " We proceeded over the table-lands towards some ponds, and 
 I found three young shore-larks just out of the nest, and not yet 
 able to fly. They hopped about pretty bi-iskly over the moss, 
 uttering a soft peep, to which the parent birds responded at 
 every call. They were about a week old, and I am glad that 
 I shall now have it in my power to make a figure of these birds 
 in summer, winter, and young plumage. We also found the 
 breeding-place of the Fuligula Histrionica, hx the corner of a 
 small pond in some low bushes. The parent bird was so shy, 
 that we could not obtain her. In another pond we found the 
 nest also of the velvet duck, called here white-winged coots 
 (Fuligula Fusca) ; it was placed ou the moss, among the grass, 
 close to the edge of the water, and contained feathers, but no 
 down, as others do. The female had six young, five of which 
 were secured. They were about one week old, and I could 
 readily distinguish the male birds from the females, the former 
 all exhibiting the white spot under the eye. They were black 
 and hairy (not downy) all over except under the chin, where a 
 patch of white showed itself. They swam swiftly and beauti- 
 fully, and when we drove them into a narrow place, for the 
 purpose of getting them on land and catching them alive, they 
 turned about face and dived most beautifully, and made their 
 way towards the middle of the pond, where four were shot at one 
 discharge. Another went on shore and squatted in the grass, 
 where Lincoln caught it ; but I begged for its life, and we left 
 it to the care of its mother and of the Maker ! The mother 
 showed all imaginable anxiety, and called to her young all the 
 while she remained in the ])ond, with a short squeaking note by 
 no means unpleasant. 
 
 " July 20. Bras d'Or. Another horrid stormy day ; the 
 fishermen complain, although five or six left the harbour for 
 further east ; and I wish them joy, but for my part I wish I was 
 further westward Our party of young men went off this 
 morning early to a plice called Port Eau, eighteen miles distant, 
 to try to buy some Esquimaux mocassins and dresses. They 
 will not come back till to-moirow, and I was glad when the 
 bor\t returned, as I was sure they were on terra firma. I feel 
 quite lonesome on account c^" their absence, for when all are 
 on board we have lively times, with music, and stories, and 
 
VISIT TO MR. JONES. 
 
 285 
 
 'e also found the 
 
 jokes, and journalizing. But I have amused myself drawing 
 three young shore-larks, the first ever portrayed by man. 
 
 " These birds are just now beginning to congregate, by associ- 
 ating their families together ; even those of which the young are 
 scarcely able to fly fifty yards are urging the latter to follow 
 the flock ; so much for short seasons here. In one month all 
 these birds must leave this coast or begin to suflFer. The young 
 of many birds are now fledged, and scam pet" over the rocks 
 about us, amid the stinking drying cod-fish, with all the 
 sprightliness of youth. The young ravens are out, and fly in 
 flocks with their parents also ; and the young of almost all the 
 land birds are full fledged. The ducks alone seem to me to be 
 backward in their growth, but being more hardy, tliey can 
 stand the rigidity of the climate until the month of October, 
 wlien the deep snows drive them off, ready or not, for their 
 toilsome journey. 
 
 " The water of our harbour is actually covered with oil, and 
 the bottom fairly covered with the offal of cod-fish, so that I 
 feel as if smelling and breathing an air impregnated with the 
 essence of cod-fish. 
 
 " July 30. The morning was beautiful when I arose, but such 
 a thing as a beautiful morning in this mournful country amounts 
 almost to an unnatural phenomenon. The captain and myself 
 visited Mr. Jones this afternoon. We found his wife a good 
 motherly woman, who talked well, and gave us some milk ; she 
 also promised us some fresh butter, and asked to see my draw- 
 ings of the birds of this vicinity. 
 
 " At Port Eau our young men saw an iceberg of immense 
 size. At that place there is a large fishing establishment, having 
 a store connected with it, belonging to fishermen who come 
 yearly from the Island of Jersey. It is again blowing a young 
 hurricane. 
 
 " Juhj 31. Another horrid hurricane, accompanied by heavy 
 rain, and the vessel rolling so that I cannot go on with my 
 drawing. 
 
 " August 1. The weather has quite changed, the wind 
 blows from the south-west ; it is dry, and I have used the time 
 in drawing. At noon we were visited by an iceberg, which 
 was driven by the easterly wind and storm of yesterday to 
 
I 
 
 286 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 ^' 
 
 within three miles of us, and grounded at the entrance of the 
 bay. It looks like a large man-of-war, dressed in light greenish 
 muslin instead of canvas ; and when the sun shines on it it 
 glitters most brilliantly. 
 
 "When these transient monuments of the sea happen to 
 tumble or roll over, the fall is tremendous, and the sound pro- 
 duced resembles that of loud distant thunder. These icebergs 
 are common here all summer, being wafted from the lower end 
 of the straits with every heavy easterly wind or gale. And as 
 the winds generally prevail from the south and south-west, the 
 coast of Newfoundland is more free from them than Labrador ; 
 and the navigation along the straits is generally performed 
 along the coast of Newfoundland. My time and our days now 
 Weigh heavily on our hands ; nothing to be seen, nothing to he 
 shot, therefore nothing to be drawn. I have now determined 
 on a last thorough ransack of the mountain tops, and plains, 
 and ponds, and if no success follows, to raise anciior and sail 
 towards the United States once more ; and blessed will the day 
 be when I land on those dear shores where all I long for in 
 this world exists and lives, I hope. 
 
 " August 2. Thermometer 58° at noon. Thank God it has 
 rained all day. I say thank God, though rain is no rarity, because 
 it is the duty of every man to be thankful for whatever happens 
 by the will of the Omnipotent Creator ; yet it was not so agree- 
 able to any of my party as a fine day would have been. We 
 had an arrival of a handsome schooner, called the Wizard, from 
 Boston to-day, but she brought neither papers nor letters ; but 
 we learned that all our great cities have a healthy season, and 
 >ve thanked God for this. The retrograde movement of many 
 land and water birds has already commenced, especially of the 
 lesser species. 
 
 "August 3. The Wizard broke her moorings and ran into 
 us last night, causing much alarm, but no injury. The iceberg 
 of which I have spoken has been broken into a thousand pieces 
 by the late gale, and now lies stranded along the coast. One 
 such monster deposits hundreds of tons of rocks, and gravel, 
 and boulders, and so explains the phenomena which I have 
 before mentioned as observable along the coast. 
 
 " August 4. It is wonderful how quickly every living thing 
 
INSTINCT OF BIRDS. 
 
 287 
 
 in this region, whether animal or vegetable, attains its growth. 
 In six weeks I have seen the eggs hiid, the birds hatched, and 
 their first moult half gone through ; their association into flocks 
 begun, and prepai \tions for leaving the country. 
 
 "That the Creator should have ordered that millions of 
 diminutive, tender creatures, should cross spaces of country, in 
 all appearance a thousand times more congenial for all their 
 purposes, to reach this pcor, desolate, and deserted land, to 
 people it, as it were, for a time, and to cause it to be eidivened 
 with the songs of the sweetest of the feathered musicians, for 
 only two months at most, and then, by tlie same extraordinary 
 instinct, should cause tliem all to suddenly abandon the country, 
 is as wonderful as it is beautiful and grand. 
 
 " Six weeks ago tliis whole country was one sheet of ice ; the 
 land was covered with snow, the air Mas filled with frost, and 
 subject to incessant storms, and the whole country a mere mass 
 of apparently useless matter. Now the grass is abundant, and 
 of rich growth, the flowers are met with at every step, insects 
 fill the air, and the fruits are ripe. The sun shines, and its 
 influence is as remarkable as it is beautifid ; the snow-banks 
 appear as if about to melt, and here and ther^^ there is some- 
 tliing of a summerish look. But in thirty days all is over ; the 
 dark northern clouds will come down on the mountains ; the 
 rivulets and pools, and the bays themselves, will begin to freeze ; 
 Aveoks of snow-storms will follow, and change the whole cover- 
 ing of these shores and country, and Nature will assume not 
 only a sleeping state, but one of desolation and death. Wonder- 
 ful ! wonderful ! wonderful ! But it requires an abler pen 
 than mine to paint the picture of this all-wonderful country. 
 
 "August 5. This luis been a fine day ! We liave had no new 
 hurricane, and I have finished the drawings of several new 
 birds. It appears that northern birds come to maturity sooner 
 than southern ones ; this is reversing the rule in the human 
 species. The migration of birds is much more wonderful than 
 that of fishes, because the latter commonly go feeling their 
 way along the shores, from one clime to another, and I'eturn to 
 the very same river, creek, or even hole, to deposit their spawn, 
 as the birds do to t!i(dr former nest or building-groiuid as long 
 as they live. But the latter do not feel their way, but launch- 
 
r^ 
 
 288 
 
 LIB^E OF AUDUBON. 
 
 \ I 
 
 i i.i 
 
 t I 
 
 .it! 
 
 r' 
 
 ing high in the air, go at once, and correctly, too, across im- 
 mense tracts of country, seemingly indifferent to them, but at 
 or-^e stopping, and making their abode in special parts here- 
 tofore their own, by previous knowledge of the advantages and 
 comforts which they have enjoyed, and they know awaits them 
 there. 
 
 " August 10. I now sit down to post up my poor book, while 
 a furious gale is blowing without. I have neglected to make 
 daily records for some days, because I have been so constantly 
 drawing, that when night came, I was too weary to wield my 
 pen. Indeed, all my physical powers liave been taxed to weari- 
 ness by this little work of drawing ; my neck and shoulders, 
 and most of all my fingers, have ached from the fatigue ; and I 
 have suffered more from this kind of exertion than from walking 
 sixty-five miles in a day, which I once did. 
 
 " To-day I have added one more new species to the ' Birds of 
 America,' the Labrador falcon ; and may we live to see its 
 beautiful figure multiplied by Havell's graver." 
 
 The journal gives a list of the names of one hundred and 
 seventy-three skins of birds, which were obtained on the coast 
 of Labrador by Audubon and his party on this expedition. 
 The episode given in the following chapter seems to summarize 
 Audubon's observations of the inhabitants of Labrador. 
 
CHARTER XLVII. 
 
 Labrador Episodes: The Squatters of Labrador. 
 
 " Go where you will, if a shilling can there be procured, you may 
 
 I expect to meet with individuals in search of it. In the course 
 
 of last summer I met with several persons as well as families 
 
 whom I could not compare to anything else than what in 
 
 America we understand by the appellation of squatters. The 
 
 j methods they employed to accumulate property form the subject 
 
 of the observations which I now lay before you. Our schooner 
 
 lay at anchor in a beautiful basin on the coast of Labrador, 
 
 surrounded by uncouth granite rocks, partially covered with 
 
 stunted vegetation. While searching for birds and other objects 
 
 1 cliauced one morning to direct my eye towards the pinnacle 
 
 of a small island, separated from the mainland by a very 
 
 narrow channel, and presently commenced inspecting it with 
 
 jmy telescope. There I saw a man on his knees, with clasped 
 
 hands, and face inclined heavenwards. Before him was a small 
 
 I monument of unhewn stones supporting a wooden cross. In a 
 
 pvord, reader, the person whom I thus une::pectedly discovered 
 
 I was engaged in prayer. Such an incident in that desolate land 
 
 jwas affecting, for there one seldom finds traces of human beings, 
 
 and the aid of the Almighty, although necessary everywhere, 
 
 iBeems there peculiarly required to enable them to procure the 
 
 j means of subsistence. My curiosity having been raised, 1 betook 
 
 jmyself to my boat, landed on the rock, and scrambled to the 
 
 Iplace, where I found the man still on his knees. When his 
 
 Idevotious were concluded he bowed to me and addressed me in 
 
 |voiy indifferent French. I asked why he had chosen so dreary 
 
 u 
 
j 
 
 I-' 
 
 • ■ ?! 
 
 !) 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 ' 1 
 
 ■ 
 
 200 
 
 LIFE OF AununoN. 
 
 a spot for his prayers. * Because,' answered ho, * the sea lioa 
 
 bnlbro mo, and from it I receive my spring and summer 
 
 sustenance. When winter jipproaches I pray frontinf; the 
 
 mountains on the Maine, as at that period the caraboos coino 
 
 towards the shore and I kill them, feed on their flesh, and form 
 
 my bedding of their skins.' I thought the nnswer reasonable, 
 
 and, as I longed to know more of him, followed him to his hut. 
 
 It was low and very small, formed of stones plastered with mud 
 
 to a considerable thickness. The roof was com[)osed of a sort 
 
 of thatching made of woods and moss. A largo Dutch stove 
 
 filled nearly one half of the place ; a small port-hole, tlien stuffed 
 
 with old rags, served at times inst(uid of a window; the bed was 
 
 a pile of deer-skins ; a bowl, a jug, and an iron pot were placed 
 
 on a rude shelf; three old and rusty muskets, their loeks 
 
 fastened by thongs, stood in a corner; and his buck-shot, powder, 
 
 and flints were tied up in bags of skin. Eiglit Esquimaux dogj 
 
 yelled and leaped about us. The strong smell that emanated 
 
 from them, together with the smoke and filth of the apartment, 
 
 rendered my stay in it very disagreeable. Being a native of 
 
 France, the good man showed much politeness, and invited me 
 
 to take some refreshment, when, without waiting for my assent, 
 
 he took up his bowl and went off I know aiot whither. Xo 
 
 sooner had he and his strange dogs disa})})eared, than I went 
 
 out also to breathe the pure air and gaze on the wild and 
 
 majestic scenery around. 1 was struck with tlie extraordinary f 
 
 luxuriance of the plants and grasses that had sprung up on tliel 
 
 scanty soil in the little valley which the squatter had choscnj 
 
 for his home. Their stalks and broad blades reached my wuist.1 
 
 June had come, and the flies, mosquitoes, and other insects! 
 
 filled the air, and were as troublesome to me as if I had been iul 
 
 a Florida swamp. The squatter returned, but he was ' diop-l 
 
 fallen ;' nay, I thought his visage had assumed a cadaverous liael 
 
 Tears ran down his cheeks, and he told me that his barrel o[| 
 
 rum had been stolen by the ' eggers ' or some fishermen. Hel 
 
 said that he had been in the habit of hiding it in the bushes ff| 
 
 prevent its being carried away by those merciless thieves, vm 
 
 must have watched him in some of his frequent walks to tlie| 
 
 spot. ' Now,' said he, ' I can expect none till next spring, 
 
 God knows Avhat will become of me in the winter.' Pierre Joail 
 
A LAlUiAnoU SQUATTER. 
 
 201 
 
 Bii|iti8to Miclmux ' had resided in that part of the worUl for 
 upwards of ton years ; ho had run away from the fishing-smack 
 that had brought liim from his fair native hind, and expected 
 to become rich some day hy tlio sale of liis furs, skins, and 
 ei(lor-(hicks' down, seal-skins, and other articles which ho 
 collected yearly, and sold to the traders who regularly visited 
 his dreary abode. He was of moderate stature, tirnily framed, 
 and lis active as a wild cat.' JIo told nio that, excepting the loss of 
 his nun, ho had never experic^nced any other cause of sorrow, 
 and that he felt as * happy as a lord.' Before parting with this 
 fortnnato mortal, I iiiquirec' how his dogs managed to find 
 suflicient food. 'Why, sir, during spring and summer they 
 ramble along the shores, where they meet with abundance of 
 (load lish, and in winter they eat the flesh of the seals which 
 I kill late in the autumn, when tliese animals return from the 
 north. As to myself, everything eatable is good, and when 
 hard pushed, I assure you 1 can relish the fare of my dogs just 
 as nuieh as they do themselves.' Proceeding along the rugged 
 indentations of the bay with my companions, I reached the 
 settlement of another person, who, like the first, had come to 
 Labrador with the view of making his fortune. We found him 
 
 I after many diiliculties ; but as our boats turned a long point 
 jutting out into the buy we were /leased to see several small 
 schooners at anchor and one lying near a sort of wharf. Several 
 neat-looking houses enlivened the view, and on landing we were 
 kindly greeted with a polite welcome from a man who proved 
 to be the owner of the establishment. For the rude simplicity 
 of him of the rum-cask we found here the manners and dress 
 of a man of the world. A handsome fur cap covered his dark 
 
 Ibrow, his clothes were similar to our own, and his demeanour 
 Iwas that of a gentleman. On my giving him my name he 
 Ishook me heartily by the hand, and on introducing each of my 
 Icompanions to him he addressed me as follows : * My dear sir, 
 
 II have been ex[)ecting you these three weeks, having read in 
 fhe papers your intention to visit Labrador, and some fishermen 
 told me of your arrival at Little Natasquan. Gentlemen, walk 
 p.' Having followed him to his neat and comfortable mansion, 
 lie introduced me to his wife and children. Of the latter there 
 pre six, all robust and rosy. The lady, although a native of 
 
 u 2 
 
1 
 
 1 ' 
 
 
 i 
 
 (1 
 
 i 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 202 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUnON. 
 
 tlio country, wns of French extraction, handsomo, and sufficiently 
 nccoinplislied to make an excellent companion to a gentleman. 
 A smart girl brought us a luncheon, consiHting of bread, cheeno, 
 and good port wine, to which, having rowed fourteen or flftooii 
 milcH that morning, wo helped ourselves in a manner that 8(!cmc(| 
 satisfactory to all parties. Our host gave us newspapers from 
 difTj'rciit parts of the world, and sliowed us his small but clioipo 
 collection of books. He inquired after the health of the amiaMe 
 Captain IJayfleld of the Koyal Navy, and the officers under him, 
 aud hoped they would give him a call. Having refreshed our- 
 selves, we walked out with him, when he pointed to a very siiihll 
 garden where a few vegetables sprouted ont anxious to see the 
 sun. Gazing on the desolate country around, I asked him how 
 he had thus secluded himself from the world. For it he had no 
 relish, and although he had received a liberal education and 
 had mixed with society, he never intended to leturn to it. ' The 
 coinitry round,' said he, ' is all my own much farther than you 
 can see. No fees, no lawyers, no taxes are here. I do pretty 
 much a« I choose. ]\ry means are ample through my own 
 industry. These vessels come here for seal-skins, seal oil, and 
 salmon, and give me in return all the necessaries, and, indood, 
 comforts of the life 1 love to follow; and M'hat else cmihU/if 
 world afford me?' I spoke of the education of his childron. 
 * 3Iy wife and I teach them all that is usefid for them to know, 
 and is not that enough ? My girls will marry their countrymen, 
 my sons the daughters of my neighlours, and 1 hope all of thorn 
 will live and die in the country.' I said no more, but by way 
 of compensation for the trouble I had given him, purchased 
 from his eldest child a beautiful fox-skin. Few birds, he said, 
 came round him in summer, but in winter thousands (if 
 ptarmigans were killed, as well as great numbers of gulls. Ho 
 had a great dislike to all fishermen and eggers, and I really 
 believe was always glad to see the departure of even the hardy 
 navigators who annually visited him for the sake of his salmon, 
 his seal-skins, and oil. He had more than forty Esquimiuix 
 dogs ; and as I was caressing one of them he said, ' Tell my 
 brother-in-law at Bras-d'or that we are all well here, and that 
 after visiting my wife's father I will give him a call.' 
 
 " Now, reader, his wife's father resided at the distance nf 
 
A ULUK STOCKING. 
 
 2M 
 
 seventy miloH down the ooast, «uul like IiiiusoU' vvus ti rcflusc. 
 Ho of Brm-lor was at doiiltlo tliat (listauco; but wlioii tlio 
 snows of winter havo tlii(!kly covered tlio eountry, tlio wliolo 
 family in slodgos drawn hy dof^s travel with easo and |)ay their 
 visits or leave their cards. TJiis j^ood geiith^maii had already 
 resided there more than twenty years. Should ho ever reatl 
 this article, I desire him to believe that I shall alwayH be 
 fjrateful to him and his wife for their hospitable welcome. 
 When our schooner, the Kiploy, arrived at Bms-d'or, I paid a 
 
 visit to Mr. , the brother-in-law, who lived in a house 
 
 imported from Quebec, which fronted the strait of Belle Isle, 
 and overlooked a small island, over which the eye reached the 
 coast of Newfoundland whenever it wns the wind's ])leasnre to 
 drive away the fogs that usually lay over both cttasts. The 
 gentleman and his wifi^ we were told, were botli out on a walk, 
 but would return in a very short time, which they in fact did, 
 when we followed them into the house, which was yet unfinished. 
 The usual immense Dutch stove formed a principal feature of 
 the interior. The lady had once visited the metropolis of 
 Canada, and seemed desirous of acting the part of a ' blue 
 stocking.' Understanding that I knew something of the fine 
 arts, she pointed to several of the vile prints hung on the bare 
 walls, which she said were elegant Italian pictures, and con- 
 tinued her encomiums upon them, assuring me that she had 
 purchased tliem from an Italian who had come there with a 
 trunk full of them. She had psid a shilling sterling for each, 
 frame included. I could give no answer to the good lady on 
 this subject, but I felt glad to find that she possessed a feeling 
 heart. One of her children had caught a sislcin, and was tor- 
 menting the poor bird, when she rose from her seat, took the 
 little Hutterer from the boy, kissed it, and gently launched it 
 into the air. This made me quite forget the tattle about the 
 fine arts. Some excellent milk was poured out for us in clean 
 glasses. It was a pleasing sight, for not a cow had we yet seen 
 in the country. The lady turned the conversation on music, 
 and asked if I played on any instrument. I answered that 
 I did, but very indifferently. Her forte, she said, was music, of 
 wliich she was indeed immoderately fond. Her instrument Imd 
 been sent to Europe to be repaired, but would return that 
 
i'il 
 
 I: 
 
 I. 
 
 §2 
 
 a, < 
 
 '1: 
 
 m 
 
 204 
 
 JAVK OF AUDUnON. 
 
 season, when the whole ' . her children would again perform 
 many beautiful airs, for in fact anybody could use it with cuso, 
 as when she or the childroi' folt fatigued the servant played on 
 it for them. Rather sm-prised at the extraordinary powers of 
 this family of musicians, I asked what sort of an instrument it 
 was, when she described it as follows : * Gentlemen, my instru- 
 ment is large, longer than broad, and stands on four legs like a 
 table ; at one end is a crooked handle, by turning which round 
 either fast or slow I do assure you we make excellent music' 
 The lips of my young friends and companions instantly curled, 
 but a glance from me as instantly recomposed their features. 
 Telling the fair one it must bo a hand-organ she used, slu^ 
 laughingly said, ' Oh, that is it, it is a hand-organ, but I had for- 
 gotten the name, and for the life of me could not recollect it.' 
 The husband had gone out to work', and was in the harbour 
 caulking an old schooner. lie dined with me on boaixl the 
 Ripley, and proved to be an excellent fellow. Like his brotlier- 
 in-law, he had seen much of the Morld, having sailed nearly 
 round it ; and although no scholar, like him, too, he was di.sgusted 
 with it. He held his land on the same footing as his neighbouii;, 
 caught seals without number, lived comfortably and happily, 
 visited his father-in-law and the scholar by the aid of his dogs, 
 of which he kept a great pack, bartered or sold his commodities 
 as his relations did, and cared about nothing else in the woil;!. 
 Whenever tl e weather was fair he walked with his dame over 
 the snow-cvered rccks of the neighbourhood, and during winter 
 killed ptariuigans and caraboos, while his eldest son attendeii 
 to the traps and .«kinnod the animals caught by them. He had 
 the only horse tiiat was to bo found in that part of the country, 
 as well a •■ sevn-al cows ; but, above all, ho was kind to everyone, 
 and every one spoke well of him. The only disagreeable thing 
 about the plantation or settlement was a heap of fifteen hunched 
 carcasses of skinned seals, which at the time Avlien we visited 
 the place, in the month of August, notwithstanding the coolness 
 of the atmosplu re, sent forth a stench that, according to the idea 
 of some naturalists, might have sufficed to attract all the vultures 
 in. the United States. During our stay at Bras-cVor the kind- 
 hearted and good ]\irs. daily sent us fresh milk and Inittir, 
 
 for which we were denied the pleasure of making any rctiirii. " 
 
ould again perform 
 
 jld use it with cuso, 
 
 e servant played on 
 
 raordinary powers of 
 
 of an instrument it 
 
 ntlemen, my instrii- 
 
 1 on four legs like a 
 
 urning which round 
 
 ke excellent music' 
 
 ons instantly curled, 
 
 losed their features. 
 
 )rgan she used, slio 
 
 argan, but I had for- 
 
 uld not recollect it.' 
 
 wag in the harbour 
 
 h me on board tlio 
 
 V. Like his brotlier- 
 
 laving sailed nearly 
 
 too, he was disgusted 
 
 Qg as his neighbours, 
 
 jrtably and happily, 
 
 the aid of his doj^s, 
 
 old his commoditii's 
 
 g else in the world. 
 
 with his dame ovw 
 
 d, and during winter 
 
 eldest .son attended 
 
 . by them. He luul 
 
 part of the country, 
 
 is kind to every one, 
 
 y disagreeable tliinir 
 
 p of fifteen hundred 
 
 ae when we visited 
 
 tanding the coolness 
 
 iccording to the idea 
 
 tract all the vultures 
 
 Bras-cVor the kind- 
 
 esh milk and ])utter, 
 
 aking any return." 
 
 CHAPTEU XLVIII. 
 
 XoTi".s IN Labraook — Gui.K OK St. Lawuknck — Rt. Gi;oi!'jk's Bay, Nkw- 
 
 J-OUNDI-AXD — TilK VlI.I.AfiK — FlSUEUMION ANU WoMKN — IXDIAN WlU- 
 WAMS — BkATINO about A'l' SiCA. 
 
 ** AiLgmi 11. At sea, Gulf of St. Lawrence. We dre now fully 
 fifty miles from the coast of Labrador. Fresh wt;.er ywA taken 
 ou board, and all preparations were made last evening, and this 
 morning Ave bid adieu ^o the friends wo had made at liabrador. 
 
 " Seldom in my life have I left a country with as little regret 
 as this; next in order would come East Florida, after my 
 excursion up the St. John's Iliver. As we sailed away I saw 
 probably for the last time the high and rugged hills, [lartly 
 immersed in large banks of fog, that usually hang over tliem. 
 
 " Now we are sailing before the wind in full sight of the 
 south-west coast of Newfoundland, the mountains of which are 
 high, spotted with drifted snow-banks, and cut horizontally with 
 floating strata of fogs extending along the laud as far as the eye 
 can reach. The sea is quite smooth, or else I have become a 
 better sailor by this rough voyage. Although the weather is 
 cloudy, it is such as promises in this region a fair night. Our 
 young men are playing the violin and flute, and I am scribbling 
 in my book. 
 
 '' It is worth telling that during the two months we have 
 spent on the coast of Labrador, moving from one harbour to 
 another, or from behind one rocky island to another, only three 
 nights have been passed at sea. Twenty-three drawings have 
 been commenced or finished, and now I am anxious to know if 
 
>»'t 
 
 i'i 
 
 i 
 
 ^'* 
 
 
 ( 
 
 
 3 
 
 2« 
 
 
 1^. 
 
 "li' 
 
 290 
 
 I.IFE OF AUDU150N. 
 
 what remains of the voyage will prove as fruitful ; and only 
 hope our Creator will permit us all to reach our friends in 
 safety and find them well aad happy. 
 
 " August 13. Harbour of St. George's Bay, Newfoundland. By 
 my dates you will see how long we were running, as the sailors 
 call it, from Labrador to this place, where wo anchored at five 
 this evening. Our voyage here was all in sight of, and indeed 
 along the north-west side of Newfoundland; the shores pre- 
 senting the highest lands we have yet seen. In some places 
 the views were highly picturesque and agreeable to the eye, 
 altlaough the appearance of vegetation wao but little better 
 than at Labrador, The wind was fair for two-tliirds of the 
 distance, and drew gradually ahead and made us uncomfortable. 
 " This morning we entered the mouth of St. George's Bay, 
 .vhich is about forty miles wide and fifty miles deep, and a more 
 beautiful and ample basin cannot be found ; there is not a single 
 obstruction within it. The north-east shores are high and 
 I'ccVy, but the southern are sandy, low, and flattish. It took 
 us until five o'clock to ascend it, when we came to anchor in 
 sight of a small village, the only one we have seen in two 
 months ; and we are in a harbour with a clay bottom, and where 
 fifty line-of-battle ships could snugly and safely ri'le. 
 
 " The village is built on an elongated point of sand or sea wall, 
 under which we now are, and is perfectly secure from all winds 
 except the north-east. The country on ascending the bay 
 became gradually more woody and less rough in shape. The 
 temperature changed quite suddenly this afternoon, and tlie 
 weather was so mild that we found it agreeable lolling on deok, 
 and it felt warm even to a southern liiie myself. Twenty-two 
 degrees difference in temperature in two days is a very cod- 
 siderable change. 
 
 " We found here several sail of vessels engaged in the fisheries, 
 and an old hulk from Hull in England, called Charles Tennison, 
 which was wrecked near here four years ago, on her way from 
 Quebec to Htill. As we sailed up the bay two men boarded lis 
 from a small boat and assisted us as pilots. They had a half 
 barrel of fine salmon, which I bought from them for ten dollars. 
 As soon as we dropped anchor our young men went ashore to 
 buy fresh provisions, but they returned with nothing but two 
 
? fruitful; and only 
 •each our friends in 
 
 r, Newfoundland. By 
 inning, as the sailors 
 wo anchored at five 
 sight of, and indeed 
 ud; the shores pre- 
 en. In some places 
 greeable to the eye, 
 im but little better 
 3r two-thirds of the 
 de us uncomfortable, 
 of St. George's Bay, 
 lies deep, and a more 
 ; there is not a single 
 hores are high and 
 md flattish. It took 
 3 came to anchor in 
 e have seen in two 
 ly bottom, and wliero 
 iifely ri'le. 
 
 nt of sand or sea wall, 
 cure from all winds 
 ascending the bay 
 )ugh in shape. Tlie 
 afternoon, and the 
 iible lolling on deck, 
 myself. Twenty-two 
 days is a very con- 
 aged in the fisheries, 
 ed Charles Tennisoii, 
 go, on her way from 
 two men boarded us 
 s. They had a halt' 
 thoni for ten dollars. 
 men went ashore to 
 ith nothing but two 
 
 FRIGHT OF THE LABilADOK WOMEN. 
 
 297 
 
 bottles of mik, though the village contains two hundred inhabi- 
 tan<3. Mackerel, and sharks of the man-eating kind, are said 
 to be abundant here. Some signs of cultivation are to be seen 
 across the harbour, and many huts of Mich macs Indians adorn 
 the shores. We learn that the winters are not nearly as severe 
 here as at Quebec, yet not far off I could see dots of snow of 
 last year's crop. Some persons say birds are plenty, others say 
 there are none hereabouts. 
 
 " The ice did not break up, so that this bay was not navigable 
 until the 17th of May, and I feel confident that no one can enter 
 the harbours of Labrador before the lOtli or middle of June. 
 
 "August 14. All ashore in search of birds, plants, and the usual 
 et cetcras belonging to our vocations, but all had to return soon 
 on account of a storm of wind and rain, showing that Newfound- 
 land is cousin to Labrador in this respect. We found the 
 country quite rich however in comparison with the latter place ; 
 all the vegetable productions are larger and more abundant. 
 We saw a flock of house sparrows, all gay and singing, and on 
 their passage to the south-west." 
 
 Audubon names about twenty different species of birds 
 which he saw here ; hares and caraboos are among the animals, 
 and among the wild plants he found two species of roses. 
 
 " The women flew before us as if we were wild beasts, and 
 one who had a pail of water, at sight of us, dropped it, and ran 
 to hide herself; another who was looking for a cow, on seei.ag us 
 coming, ran into the woo Is, and afterwards crossed a stream 
 waist tleep to get home to her hut without passing us. We are 
 told that no laws are administered here, and to my surprise net 
 a sign of a church exists. The people are all fishermen and live 
 poorly; in one enclosure I saw a ftnv pretty good-looking 
 cabbages. We can buy only milk and herrings, the latter ten 
 cents a dozen ; we were acked eight dollars for a tolerable calf, 
 but chickens were too scarce to be obtained. Two clearings 
 across the bay are the only signs of cultivated land. Not a 
 horse has yet made its way into the country, and not even a 
 true Newfoundland dog, nothing but curs of a mixed breed. 
 
 " Some of the buildings 'ooked like miserable hovels, others 
 more like habitable houses. Not a blacksmith's shop here, and 
 yet one would probably do well. The customs of the people are 
 
M?l 
 
 'r 
 
 208 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 • J 
 
 mm 
 
 »«J 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 partly Canadian and partly English. The women all wear 
 cotton caps covering their cars. The passage to and from our 
 vessel to the shore was the ronghest I ever made in an open 
 I oat, and we were completely soaked by the waves which dashed 
 over us. 
 
 " August 15. We have had a boantiful day. This morning some 
 Indians came alongside of our vessel with half a reindeer, a 
 caraboo, and ;' hare of a species I had never seen before. We gave 
 them twenty-one pounds of pork for forty-four pounds of venison, 
 thirty-three pounds of bread for the caraboo, and a quarter of a 
 dollar for the hai-e. The Indians showed much cleverness in 
 striking the luirgain. I spent ]iart of the day drawing, and then 
 visited the wigwams of the Indians across the bay. We found 
 them, as I expected, all lying down pell-mell in their wigwams, 
 and a strong mixture of blood was perceptible in their skins, 
 shape, and deportment : some were almost white, and sorry I 
 am to say, that the nearer they were to our nobler race the 
 iilthier and the lazier tliey were. The women and children 
 were particularly disgusting in this respect. Some of the 
 women were making baskets, and others came in from collectina; 
 a fruit called here the b^.liod apple (Ruhus chainienrous), and 
 wlien burnt a lift;^ it tastes exactly like a roasted apple. The 
 children were catching lobsters and eels, of •which there are a 
 great many in the bay, as there are in all the bays of the island, 
 whilst at Labrador this shell-fish is very rore. The young 
 Indians found them by wading to their knee^ in eel grass. 
 
 " We bargained witli t\«o of the hunters to go with onr 
 young men into the interior to hunt for caraboos, hares, and 
 partridges, which they agreed to do for a dollar a day. Tlie 
 Indians cook lobsters by roasting them in a pile of brushwood, 
 and eat them without any salt or other condiment. The 
 caraboos are at this date in * velvet,' their skins are now light 
 grey, and the llesh poor but tender. The average weiglit of 
 this animal, when iii good condition, is four hundred pourids. 
 In the early part of ]\larch they leave the hilly grounds, where 
 no moss or any other food can be obtained, and resort to the 
 shores of the sea (o feed on kelj) and other sea grasses cut np 
 by the ice and cast up by the waves along the shore. Groups 
 of several hundreds may be seen at one time thus feeding : their 
 
A VISIT FllOM MR. FOllEST AND FAMILY. 
 
 209 
 
 ic women a]l wear 
 ige to and from our 
 ir made in an open 
 waves which dashed 
 
 . This morning some 
 \\ lialf a reindeer, a 
 ien before. We gave 
 ir pounds of venison, 
 d, and a quarter of a 
 much cleverness in 
 y drawing, and then 
 he bay. We found 
 ill in their wigwams, 
 tible in their skins, 
 t white, and sorry I 
 )ur nobler race the 
 wmen and children 
 ect. Some of tlio 
 [le in from collectinfi; 
 IS chamtcnrous), and 
 roasted apple. The 
 
 whidi there are a 
 e bays of the island, 
 
 rpre. The voung 
 
 6 in eel grass. 
 
 u\s to go with our 
 araboos, hares, and 
 
 dollar a day. Tlie 
 
 ])ile of brushwood, 
 condiment. Tlie 
 skins are now liglit 
 
 average weiglit of 
 ir liundred pouiids. 
 
 lilly grounds, where 
 d, and resort to tlie 
 
 sea grasses cut up 
 the shore. Groups 
 
 thus feeding : their 
 
 flesli here is not much esteemed ; it tastes like indifferent, poor, 
 but very tender venison. 
 
 " August 17. We sliould now be ploughing the deep had tlie 
 wind been fair, but it has been aliead, and wo remain here in 
 statu quo. The trutli is we have determined not to leave this 
 harbour witliout a fair prospect of a good run, and then we shall 
 trust to Providence after that. I have added a curious species 
 of akler to my drawing of the white-winged cross-bill, and 
 finished it. We received a visit from IVIr., IMrs., and jMIss Forest ; 
 they brought us .some salad and fresh butter, and in return we 
 gave them a glass of wine and some raisins. The old lady and 
 gentleman talked well; ho complained of the poverty of the 
 country and the disadvantages he experienced from the privi- 
 leges granted to the French on this coast. They told mo they 
 were relatives of Lord Plunket, and that they were well ac- 
 quainted with our friend Edward Harris and his family. I gavo 
 theni my card, and showed them the Duk(i of Sussex's letter, 
 which they borrowed and took home to co})y. I had also a visit 
 from an old Frenchman who has resided on this famous island 
 for fifty years. He assured me that no red Indians are now to 
 be found; the last he had heard of were seen twenty-two years 
 ago. It is said that these natives give no quarter to anybody, 
 but, after killing their foes, cut off their heads and leave their 
 bodies to the wild beasts of the country. 
 
 " Several flocks of golden-winged plovers passed over the bay 
 this forenoon, and two Icstris pomerania came in this evening. 
 The ravens abound here, but no crows have yet been seen ; the 
 great tern are passing south by thousands, and a small flock t)f 
 Canada geese were also seen. I'he young of the golden-crested 
 wren were shot. A muscipcapa was killed, whieh is probably 
 new. I bought seven Newfoundland dogs for seventeen dollars: 
 two bitches, four pups, and a dog two years old. With these I 
 shall be able to fulfil promises made to friends to bring them 
 dogs. 
 
 " On the 18th of August at daylight the wind promised to be 
 fair, and although it was rather cloudy we broke our anchorage, 
 and at five o'doek were under weigh. We coasted along 
 Newfoundland until evening, when the wind rose to a tempest 
 from the south-west, and our vessel was laid to at dark, and we 
 
m:'< 
 
 300 
 
 LIFE OP AUDUBON. 
 
 ), 
 
 danced and kicked over the wnvea the whole of that night and 
 the next day. The next day the storm ahated, but the wind was 
 still ao adverse that we could not make the Gannet Hock or any 
 part of Newfoundland, and towards the lalt(U* wo steered, for 
 none of us could bear the idea of returning to Labrador. During 
 tlie niglit the weather moderated, and the next day we laid our 
 course for the Straits of Canscau ; but suddenly the wind failed, 
 and during the calm it was agreed that wo would try and roncli 
 I'ictou in Nova Scotia, and travel by land. Wo are now beating 
 about towards that port, and ho})e to reach it early to-morrow 
 morning. The captain will then sail for Eastport, and we, 
 making our way by land, will probably reach there as soon as 
 he. The great desire wo all have to seo Pictou, Halifax, and 
 the country between there and Eastport is our inducement." 
 
CIIAPTEll XLTX. 
 
 XoTKS IN LAimADOU — TiANI) ON Kuy's IhI,ANI) — WANDKUINns Ovi;ilT,AM) — 
 I'iCTOlJ — PitOl'KSHOU M<(;ui,I,OU(iII — TlUIltO AND TIIK BaY OK FlINI>Y— 
 
 AiuuvAi, AT IIamkax, Nova Scotia — Aihuval at Nkw Yokk, and 
 Calculation of Exi'knses. 
 
 "August 22. After attempting to boat our vessel into the 
 harbour of Pictou, but without succeeding, we concluded that 
 myself and party should be put on shore, and the Hi ploy shouhl 
 sail back to tlio Straits of Canscau, the wind and tide being 
 favourublo. We drank a parting glass to our wives and frionds, 
 and our excellent little captain took us to the shore, whilst tlie 
 vessel stood up to the wind, with all sails set, waiting fo^* the 
 captain. 
 
 " AVo happened to land on an island called Euy's Island, where, 
 fortunately ibr us, we met some men making hay. Two of them 
 agreed to carry our trunks and two of our party to Pictou for 
 two dollars. Our eflects were jiut in a boat in a trice, and wo 
 shook hands heartily with the captain, towards whom we all 
 now feel much real attachment, and after mutual adieus, and 
 good wishes for the completion of our respective journeys, we 
 parted, giving each other three most liearty cheers. 
 
 " We were now, thank God, positively on the main shore of 
 our native land; and after four days' confinement in our 
 bertlis, and sea-sickness, and the sea and vessol, and all their 
 sniolls and discomforts, we were so refreshed, tliat the thought 
 of walking nine miles seemed nothing more than figuring through 
 a single (piadrille. The air felt uncommonly warm, and the 
 
V 
 
 .1 '( 
 
 : r 
 
 302 
 
 IJFE OF AUDUnON. 
 
 country, compared with those we had so lately left, appeared 
 jierfectly beautiful, and we inhaled the fragrance of the new- 
 mown grass, as if notliing sweeter ever existed. Even the music 
 of crickets was delightful to my cars, for no such insect is to be 
 found eitlior at Labrador or Newfoundland. The voice of a 
 blue jay sounded melody to me, and the sight of a humming, 
 bird quite filled my mind with delight. 
 
 " We were conveyed to the main, only a very short distance, 
 Ingalls and Coolidge remaining in the boat ; and the rest took 
 the road, along which we moved as lightly as if boys just released 
 from school. The road was goo;!, or seemed to be so; the 
 woods were tall timber, and the air, which circulated freely, was 
 all perfume ; and every jjlant we saw brought to mind some 
 portion of the United States, and we all felt quite happy. Now 
 and then as we crossed a hill, and cast our eyes back on the sea, 
 wo saw our beautiful vessel sailing freely before the wind, and 
 as she diminished towards the horizon, she at last appeared lik(! 
 a white speck, or an eagle floating in the air, and we wished our 
 captain a most safe voyage to Quoddy. 
 
 " We reached the shore opposite Pictou in two and a half 
 liours^ and lay down on the grass to await the arrival of the 
 boat, and gazed on the scenery around us. A number of 
 American vessels lay in the harbour loading with coal. The 
 village located at the bottom of a fine bay on the north-west 
 side looked well, althougli small. Three churches api)eared 
 above the rest of the buildings, all of wood, and several vessels 
 were building on the stocks. 
 
 " The Avhole country seemed to be in a high state of cultivation, 
 and looked well. The population is about two tliousand. Our 
 boat came, and we crossed the bay, and put up at the Royal 
 Oak, the best hotel in the place, where we obtained an excellent 
 supper. The very treading of a carpeted floor was comfortable. 
 In the evening we called on Professor McCuUougli, who received 
 us kindly, gave us a glass of wine, and showed us his collection 
 of well-preserved birds and other things, and invited us to break- 
 iast to-morrow at eight o'clock, when we are further to iuspeet 
 his curiosities. The professor's mansion is a quarter of a mile 
 from the town, and looks much like a small English villa. 
 
 " August 23. W^e had an excellent Scotdi breakfast at the 
 
lately left, appeared 
 igrance of the now- 
 ed. Even the music 
 such insect is to be 
 d. The voice of a 
 gilt of a humming. 
 
 very short distance, 
 ; ; and the rest took 
 if boys just released 
 ned to be so; the 
 irc'ulated freely, was 
 light to mind some 
 quite happy. Now 
 yes back on th(> sea, 
 efore the wind, and 
 i,t last appeared like 
 ', and we wished our 
 
 I in two and a half 
 
 the arrival of the 
 
 us. A number of 
 
 ig with coal. The 
 
 on the north-west 
 
 churches appeared 
 
 and several vessels 
 
 state of cultivation, 
 ;wo tliousand. Our 
 it up at the Koynl 
 )tained an excellent 
 »or was comfortable, 
 lougli, who received 
 ed us his collection 
 invited us to break- 
 e further to inspect 
 I quarter of a mile 
 l*]nglish villa, 
 li breakfast at the 
 
 VISIT TO PROFESSOR McCULLOUOH. 
 
 303 
 
 professor's this morning, and his family, consisting of wife, four 
 sons and daughters, and a wife's sister, were all present. The 
 more I saw and talked with the professor, the more I was 
 pleased with him. I showed him a few of my Labrador drawings, 
 after which we marched in a body to the university, and again 
 examined his fine collection. I found there half a dozen 
 specimens of birds, which I longed for, and said so, and ho 
 oftered them to me with so much apparent good will, that I 
 took them and thanked him. He then asked me to look around 
 and see if there were any other object.^ I would like to liave. 
 He offered me all his fresh-water shells, and such minerals as 
 we might choose, and I took a few specimens of iron and copper. 
 He asked me what I thought of In's collection, and I gave him 
 ray answer in writing, adding F.K.S. to my name, and telling 
 him that I wished it might prove useful to him. T am much 
 surprised that his valuable collection had not been purchased by 
 the Governor of the province, to whom he oftered it for five 
 hundred pounds. I think it worth a thousand pounds. 
 
 '• On our return to the hotel we were met by j\Ir. Blanchard, 
 the deputy consul for the United States, an agreeable man, who 
 offered frankly to do anything in his power to make our visit 
 fruitful and pleasant. ' Time up,' and the coach almost ready, 
 our bill was paid, our birds jiacked, and I walked ahead about a 
 mile out of the town, with Mr. Blancliard, who spoke much of 
 England, and was acquainted with Mr. Adamson, and some 
 other friends whom I knew at Newcastle-on-Tyne. 
 
 " The coach came up, I shook hands with Mr. Blanchard, 
 jumped in, and away we went for Truro, distant forty miles. 
 The rain began to fall, and tbe wind to blow from the east, a 
 good wind for the liipley, and on we rolled on as good a road as 
 any in England, were it only a little broader. We now passed 
 through a fine tract of country, well wooded, well cultivated, and 
 a wonderful relici" to our fatigued eyes, which had so long been 
 seeing only desolate regions, snow, and tempestuous storms. 
 
 " By four in the afternoon we were hungry, and stopped at a 
 house to dine, and it now rained faster than before. Two ladies, 
 and the husband of one of them as I supposed, had arrived before 
 us, in an open cart or Jersey waggon ; and. I, with all the 
 gallantry belong to my nature, offered to exchange vehicles 
 
, 
 
 804 
 
 J AVE OF AUDUnON. 
 
 with them, whicli thoy readily accepted, but without expressinp; 
 any tlianks in return. After dinner Shattuek, Ingalls, and 
 mvHelf jumped into the open thing; I was seated i)y the side of 
 my ao-so Irish dame, and our liorse moved ofl' at a very good 
 8j)eed. 
 
 " Our excliangc soon provtnl an (>xeellent one, for the weather 
 rleared up, and we saw the country much better than we could 
 have (lone in the coach, where C.-^re were so nuvny passengers 
 that we should have been squeezed together closely. Directly 
 Professor McCuUough came up with us, and told us he would 
 see us to-morrow at Truro. Towards sunset wo arrived in 
 sight of this ])retty, loosely-built village, near the head-waters 
 of the Bay of Fundy. The view filled me with delight, and 
 the pleasure was <leepeiied by the consciousness that my courai 
 was homeward, and I was but a few days from the dearest being 
 to me on earth. 
 
 " We reached the tavern, which the hotel where we stopped 
 was called, but as it could accommodate only three of us, we 
 crossed the street to another house, where we ordered a substan- 
 tial supper. Profcfsor IMcCullough came in, and introduced ns 
 to several members of the Assembly of this ju'oviuce. 
 
 " We tried in vain to get a conveyance to take us to Halifax, 
 distant sixty-four miles, in the morning, to avoid riding all niglit 
 in the mail-coach, but could not succeed. I\Ii'. McCullough then 
 took me to the residence of Samuel G. Archibald, Esq., Speaker 
 of the Assembly, who received me most affably, and introduced mo 
 to his lady and handsome young daughter ; the former wore a 
 cap fashionable four years ago at home (England). I showed 
 them a few drawings, and received a letter from the Speaker to 
 the Chief Justice at Halifax, and bid them all good-night ; and 
 am now waiting the mail to resume my journey. Meanwhile 
 let me say a few words on this little village. It is situater^ in 
 the centre of a most beautiful valley of great extent, and under 
 complete cultivation : looking westerly a broad sheet of water 
 i. seen, forming the head of the famous 13ay of Fundy, and 
 several brooks run through the valley emptying into it. The 
 buildings, although principally of wood, are good-looking, and ns 
 cleanly as any of our pretty New England villages, well painted, 
 and gieen bliuds. The general appearance of the people quitp 
 
LOSING A LINCFI-PIN. 
 
 305 
 
 took vnoi liy snrpi'isn, hoinpj oxtromoly fjontpol. 'Vho ranch is at 
 tlic door, tho fornor of my trunk is f;usi»inpf to swallow tin's book, 
 ami I must put it in and l»o off. 
 
 " Au(;ust2\. Wind oast, and haulin<>; to the nortli-onst — all 
 j^ood for the lliploy. We aro at Hidifnx, Nova Scotia, and this 
 is tho way wo fj^ot lioro : — T^ast nifjlit at (dovon wo seated our- 
 sclvos in the ooacdi ; the moon shone brijifht, and the ni<,'ht was 
 l)Oiiutiful; but we could only purtially observe the country until 
 flio day dawned. But we found out that the road was hilly and 
 tho horses lazy, and after ridinp; twenty miles we stop[)ed to 
 olmnpje horses and warm ourselves. Shortly the cry came, 
 ' Coach ready, {gentlemen.' In we jumped, and on we rode for a 
 milo and a half, when the h'nch-pin l)roke, and we came to a 
 stand-still. Inj^alls took charpji^ of the horses, and responded to 
 the hoot of tho owls, which sounded out from tho woods, and 
 tlie rest of the party, exceptin<^ CooHd<jfe and myself, slept 
 soundly, while we were enduring that disagreeable of all ex- 
 periences of travellers — detention — which is most disagreeable 
 in tliis latitude, and especially at night. Looking up tho road, 
 the vacillating glimmer of the candle, intended to assist the 
 driver in finding the linch-pin, was all that could be distinguished, 
 and we begau to foel what is called ' wolfisli.' The man re- 
 turned, but found no pin — it could not be found, and another 
 quarter of an hour was spent in fumbling round with ropes to 
 tie our vehicle together. At length the day dawned beautifully, 
 and I ran ahead of the coach for a mile or so to warm mvself : 
 and when the coach came up I got up with the driv(;r to try to 
 obtain some information respecting the country, which was 
 becoming poorer and poorer the further we travelled. Hunger 
 again now began to press us, and we were told that it was twenty- 
 five miles from tlie lost linch-pin to the breakfast-house. I 
 persuaded the driver to stop at a wayside tavern, and inquire 
 the prospects for getting some chickens or boiled eggs; but the 
 proprietor said it was impossible for him to furnish a breakfast 
 for six persons of our appearance. 
 
 "We passed on. and soon came to the track of a good-sized 
 bear in the road, and after a wearisome ride readied the break- 
 f:ist ground, at a house situated on the margin oj' a lake called 
 I'Jrand Lake, which abounds with fine fish, and soles in the 
 
 X 
 
r I, 
 
 806 
 
 LIFK OF AUDUBON. 
 
 •ii 
 
 115 
 
 soaaon. This lake forms part of tho i-hannel which was intondwl 
 to bo cut for conncctinji; the Athmtic Oroun and tho Jiay of 
 Fiindy with tho (Jiilf of St. liawreiico at Iky Vorlo. ^^'ncty 
 thousand pounds luivo boon exponded on tho enterprise, and tlie 
 caniil is not finished, and probably never will be ; for tho 
 gov(!rnnient will not assist, and private efforts scorn to have 
 exhausted themselves. This point is seventeen miles from 
 Halifax, and must afford -i pleasant resid(>neo for summer. 
 
 "Tho road from that tavern to Halifax is level and pfood, 
 though rather narrow, and a vcsry fine drive for private carriages. 
 Wo saw the flag of tho garrison at Halifax, two miles before we 
 reached the place, when wo suddenly turned short, and brought 
 np at a gate fronting a wharf, at which lay a small steam-ferry 
 boat. Tho gate was shut, and tho mail was detained nearly an 
 hour waiting for it to be opened. Why did not IMrs. Trollope 
 visit Halifax ? Tho number of negro men and women, beggarly- 
 looking blacks, would have furnished materials for her descrip- 
 tive pen. 
 
 " We crossed the harbour, in which wo saw a sixty-four gun 
 flag-ship riding at anchor. Tho coach drove up to the houst; of 
 Mr. Paul, tho best hotel, where wo with difTiciilty obtained one 
 room with four beds for six persons. With a population of 
 eighteen thousand souls, and two thousand more of soldiers, 
 Halifax has not one good h">tel, and only two very iu'lilfcreiit 
 private boarding-houses, wher. *^'o attendance is niisurable, and 
 the table by no means good. Wo are, however, settled. 
 
 "We have walked about the town; but every one of ns 
 has sore feet in consequence of walking on hard ground, after 
 having roamed for two months on the soft, deep mosses of 
 Labrador. Tho card of an Italian was sent to our rooms, toUin;; 
 ns that he had fine baths of all sorts, and we went off to his 
 rooms and found only one tin tub, and a hole underground, into 
 which tho sea-water filters, about the size of a hogshead. I 
 plunged into this hole with Ingalls and Shattuck, then riibkil 
 ourselves dry with curious towels, and paid six cents each for 
 the accommodation. Wo then walked to the garrison, listeneil 
 to the music, returned to the hotel, and have written this, ml 
 now send in my card to the aide-de-camp of the Governor nt' 
 Newfoundland, who resides in this house. 
 
A HQUADUON OF SHU'S bUNK. 
 
 307 
 
 " August 25. T()-(lny I walked to tho wlmrvos, nnd una Hiirprln'Ml 
 to llnd thorn ovory ono fluted uiid I()('1<(mI, and Ht.'iitinols staijdiuj^ 
 {,'iuinl cvorywlicro. In tho al'tornoon thoro was a military 
 funeral ; it was a grand Higiit, tho HoldiorH walked far apart, 
 f,'u:iH inverted, to tho Hound of tho tlncnt anthoni, and wonder- 
 fully well oxeentod by an exeellont bund. 
 
 " There are no nigns of stylo here ; only two ordinary barouehos 
 came to ehureh to-day (tho Ki)iscoi)al), where tho bishop said 
 till) prayers and i)reaehed. All the chnrehes receive a certain 
 number of soldiers dressed in uniform. Tho natives of the 
 province are called ' l)Iuo Noses,' and to-morrow we intend to 
 see all we (lan of them. 
 
 " Augtid 2(1. To-day I delivered letters which I brought to 
 Itishop liiglis and the Chief .lustico, but did not find them at 
 home. To-morrow wo hope to leave hero for Windsor, distant 
 foity-five miles. 
 
 " Auffiist 27. At nine o'clock wo entered tho eoacli, or rather 
 five of us entered it, as it would hold no move, and ono was 
 obliged to take an outside seat in the rain. Tho road from 
 Halifax to Windsor is macadamized and good, winding through 
 undulating hills and valleys; our horses were good, and although 
 we had but one yalv at a time, we travelled six and a lialf miles 
 an hour. For more than nine miles our course was along the 
 lord(>rs of the l^ay of Halifax; tho view was pheasant, and here 
 and there wo noticed tolerable good-looking summer-houses. 
 Near the head of this bay, said the driver, an J'^nglish fleet 
 pursued a squadron of seven French ships, and forced them to 
 haul down their colours ; but the French commander, or admiral, 
 sunk all his vessels, preferring to do this to surrendering them 
 to the British. The water was so deep at this place that the 
 tops of the masts of tho vessels went deep out of sight, and have 
 been seen only once since then, which was more than twenty 
 years ago. 
 
 "We passed the abandoned lodge of Prince Edward, who 
 spent about one million of pounds on this building and the 
 grounds, but the whole is now a ruin ; thirty years have passed 
 since it was in its splendour. On leaving the waters of the bay, 
 wo followed those of the Salmon Eiver, a small rivulet of swift 
 water, which abounds with salmon, trout, elwines, &c. The 
 
 X 2 
 
1 
 
 P 
 
 ~ 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 ! 
 
 ' *' 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 508 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 j'l 
 
 S. 
 
 « 
 
 J; 
 
 ' t 
 
 whole C(niritry is poor, very poor, yet under tolerable eultiviition 
 all the way. We passed the seat of I\[r. Jollfries, the President 
 of the Assembly, now Acting Governor; his house is good-looking, 
 large, and the grounls around it are in fine order. It is situated 
 between two handsome fresh-water lakes ; indeed the whole 
 country through which we travelled is interspersed with lakes, all 
 of them abounding in trout and eels. 
 
 " We passed the college and common school, both looking 
 well, and built of fine freestone ; a church and several other fine 
 buildings line the road, on wliich the president and rector reside. 
 We crossed the head of the St. Croix Kiver, which rolls its 
 waters impetuously into the Day of Fundy. Here the lands were 
 all dyked, and the crops lookcl very well, and from that river to 
 Windsor the country iinj/rovod rapidly. 
 
 " Windsor is a small and rather neat village, on the east side 
 of the River Windsor, and is supported by tlie vast banks of 
 plaster of Paris around it. This valuable article is shipped iu 
 British vessels to Eastport and elsewhere in large quantities. 
 
 " Our coach stopped at the door of the best private boarding- 
 house, for nowhere in this province have we heard of hotels. 
 The house \vas full, and we went to another, where, after waiting 
 two hours, we obtained an indifferent supper. The view from 
 this village was as novel to me as the coast of Labradoi". The 
 bed of the river, which is here about one mile wide, was quite 
 bare as far as the eye could reach, say for ten mihjs, scarcely any 
 water to be seen, and yet the place where we stood was sixty- 
 rive feet above the bed, whicdi plainly showed that at high tide 
 this wonderful basin must be filled to the brim. Opposite us, 
 and indeed the whole country, is dyked in ; and vessels left dry 
 at the great elevation, fastened to the wharves, had a singular 
 appearance. We are told that now and then some vessels linve 
 slid sideways from the top of tlu; bank down to the level of the 
 gravelly bed of the river. The shores are covered for a hundred 
 yards with a reddish mud. 'J'his looks m(jre like the result of u 
 great freshet than of a tide, and I long to see the water? of the 
 sea advancing at the rate of four knots an hour to fill this basin, 
 a sight I hope to see to-morrow." 
 
 August 28. Here follows the description of the extraordinary 
 rise and I'all of the waters, and they are evidently the notes 
 
ARRIVAI. AT NEW YORK. 
 
 309 
 
 from wliicli Aiulubtm wrote his episode of the Bay of Fnndy. 
 Tlie day was passed in rambling in search of birds in this vicinity. 
 The record for the day conchules : " We intended to have paid our 
 respects to Mr. Halliburton, author of the ' Description of Nova 
 Scotia,* and other works, but we learned that he was in Boston, 
 where I heartily wished myself. 
 
 " Eastport, Maine, August 31, 1833. We arrived hero 
 yesterday afternoon in the steamer Maid of the Mist, all well. 
 We left Windsor a quarter before twelve, and reached 8t. John's, 
 New Brunswiuk, at two o'clock at night ; passed Cape Blow-me- 
 Down, Cape Split, and Cape D'Or ; the passengers were few, 
 and we were coinfortublo. We traversed the streets of St, 
 John's by moonlight, and in ihe morning I had the pleasure to 
 meet my friend Edward Harris, and to receive letters from 
 home ; and I am now preparing to leave for Boston as soon as 
 possible." 
 
 The account of the voyage concludes with this sentence : 
 " We reached New York on the morning of the 7th of Sep- 
 tember, and, thank (Jrod, found all well. I paid tlie balance of 
 tlie K.^.iey's charter (eight hundred and sixty-two dollars;, autl 
 a balance of four hundre I and thirty dollars to Dr. Parkman, 
 whicli he advanced to Dr. Shatluck for me. And 1 was not very 
 well pleased that nearly the whole burden of the Labrador 
 voyage was put on n)y shoulders, or rather taken out of my 
 poor purse ; but I was silent, and no one knew my thoughts on 
 that subject." 
 
( 
 
 ! 
 
 •• <! 
 
 i|S/!?'>""':^ 
 
 310 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 : ■ i. 
 
 CHAPTER L. 
 
 Journal Resumed — En Route to Flouida — A Fuiexdlv Letter— Calls 
 ON Governor Cass, Sixiuetauy of War — Washington Irvim;- 
 Wanderings South — Florida Excursion Abandoned — KETrRMi 
 North. 
 
 September 7, 1833. After Audubon's return from Labrador lio 
 remained three weeks in New York, and then made all his pie- 
 paratious for a journey to Florida. He forwarded to his son 
 Victor, in England, thirteen drawings of land birds, which lie 
 had prepared to complete the second volume of the great woik; 
 and he left seventeen drawings of sea birds to bo forwarded in 
 October, for the commencement of his third volume. As an 
 evidence of the value Audubon set on these dra\\ings, we may 
 note that he insured both parcels for two thousand dollars 
 each. 
 
 Sejjtemher 25. IMr. and Sirs. Audubon left New York for 
 Philadelpliia on their way to Florida, leaving their son John to 
 sail from New York by water, " with all our articles of war," for 
 Charleston, where they proposed to meet. The journal says : " The 
 weather was delightful, and we reached Philadelphia at throe 
 o'clock, and took lodgings with IMrs. Newlin, No. 112 Walnut 
 Street. Here I called on some of my former friends and was 
 kindly received. I visited several public places in the city, but 
 no one stopped me to subscribe for my book." 
 
 The following letter from Dr. BIcKenney of Philadelphia 'n 
 inserted here as a capital specimen of a racy letter, and as 
 
LETTER TO GOVEUNOR CASS. 
 
 31 
 
 eviiiv-ing, moreover, how Audubon was estimated by his best 
 frieuds : — 
 
 " riiiladelphia, September 30, 1833. 
 
 " My dear Governor, 
 
 " I do not know when I have done a more acceptable 
 service to my feelings, nor when I have been just in a situation 
 to afford as much gratification to yours, as in presenting to 
 your notice, and private and official friendship, the bearer, 
 Mr. Audubon. It were superfluous to tell you who he is ; the 
 whole world knows him and respects him, and no man in it has 
 the jieart to cherish or the head to appreciate him, and such a 
 man, beyond the capacity of yourself. 
 
 " VlT. Audubon makes no more of tracking it in all directions 
 over this, and I may add other countries, than a shot star does 
 in crossing the heavens. He goes after winged things, but 
 sometimes need the aid of — at least a few feathers, to assist him 
 the better to fly. He means to coast it again round Florida — 
 make a track through Arkansas — go up the Missouri — pass on 
 to the Eocky Mountains, and thence to the Pacific. He will 
 require some of your official aid. I took an unmerited liberty 
 viih }our name and readiness of purpose, and told him you 
 were the verj/ man ; and I need not say how happy I shall bo 
 to learn that you have endorsed my promise and ratified it. 
 God bless you. 
 
 " In haste, 
 " Thos. L. MaoKenney. 
 
 " 'I'o tlic Hon. Lkwis Cass, Secretary of War, 
 Wasliingtoii City." 
 
 " Biehnond, Virginia, October {no date). Travelling through 
 the breeding-places of OUR species is far from being as interesting 
 to me as it is to inspect the breeding-places of the feathery tribes 
 of our country. Yet as it is the lot of every man like me to 
 know something of both, to keep up the clue of my life, I must 
 say something of the cities through which I pass, and of the 
 events which transpire as I go along. 
 
 " At Philadelphia I of course received no subscriptions ; nay, 
 I was arrested there for debt,* and was on the point of beuig 
 
 * One of his oUl partnership debts. 
 
'. i 
 
 
 312 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 
 ■ * i 
 
 f« 
 
 taken to prison, had I nof-met with William Norris, Esq., who 
 kindly offered to be my bail. This event brings to my mind 
 many disagreeable thoughts connected with my former business 
 transactions, in which I was always the single loser, that I will 
 only add I made all necessary arrangeiaents to have it paid. 
 
 " We left Philadelphia for Baltimore, where I obtained four 
 new subscribers, and received many civilities, and especially 
 from Sir. Theodore Anderson, the collector of the customs. He 
 is fond of birfls, and that made mo fond of Mm. 
 
 " From Baltimore we went to Washington, for the purpose of 
 obtaining permission for myself to accompany an expedition to 
 the Itocky Mountains under tlie patronage of the Government. 
 Generals McConibe, Jessup, Colonel Abert, and other influential 
 persons received me as usual with marked kindness, I ciillod 
 on Governor Cass, Secretary of War, and met with a recej)ti()n 
 that nearly dislieartcned me. He said in an indifferent iiiid 
 cold manner that any request of that sort must be made in 
 writing to the Department ; and it recalled to my mind how 
 poor Wilson was treated by the famous Jefterson when he made 
 a similar apj)lication to that great diplomatist, I had for'"»tteu 
 to take witli me the flattering letter of introduction I had 
 received from Dr, MacKenuey, and I inquired if he would allow 
 me to send him the letter: he saiil, ' Certainly, sir,' and 1 bowed 
 and retired, determined never to trouble him or the War 
 De})artment again. 
 
 " i was revolving in my mind how 1 miglit get to the Eocky 
 ]\Iountains without the assistance of the Secretary of War, wlieu 
 1 suddeidy met with a friendly face, no less than Washington 
 Irvinu's, I mentioned my errand to him and the answer 1 hud 
 received, and he thought i was mistaken. 1 might have been; 
 but those eyes of mine have discovered more truth in nun's 
 eyes than their nioutlis were willing to acknowledge. However, 
 I listened to good Irving with patience and cahuness, and h(; 
 promised to see the Secretary of War; and he also at once 
 accompanied me to Mr. Taney, the Secreta-y of the Treasury, 
 who recinved me well, and at once kindly gave me a letter, 
 granting me the privilege of the revenue cutters along the 
 coast south of Delaware Bay." 
 
 Mr. Audubon returned to Baltimore, took the bay steamei 
 
 
Q Norris, Esq., who 
 brings to my mind 
 my former business 
 'le loser, that I will 
 to have it paid, 
 lere I obtained four 
 ies, and especially 
 f the customs. He 
 m>. 
 
 , for the purpose of 
 
 ny an expedition to 
 
 f the Government. 
 
 ,nd other influential 
 
 kindness. T culled 
 
 let with a reception 
 
 an indifferent iiiul 
 
 must be made in 
 
 ;d to my mind how 
 
 rson when he made 
 
 jt. I had for"-'^tteu 
 
 introduction I hud 
 
 id if he would allow 
 
 ly, sir,' and I bowed 
 
 um or the War 
 
 get to the Eoeky 
 stary of War, when 
 
 than Washin<;toii 
 I the answer 1 had 
 might have been; 
 ore truth in nun's 
 wk'dge. However, 
 1 calmness, and he 
 I he also at onee 
 y of the Trea.suiv, 
 
 gave me a letter, 
 
 cutters along the 
 
 V the bay steamei 
 
 ARRIVAL AT CHARLESTON. 
 
 313 
 
 for Norfolk, went aboard the Potomac, which was there ready 
 to sail for Richmond, where he arrived at the above date. 
 There he called on Governor Floyd, who promised to try to 
 induce the Etate of Virginia to subscribe for his "Birds of 
 America." 
 
 " October 10. We left Richmond this morning in a stage well 
 crammed with Italian musicians and southern merchants, arrived 
 at Petersburg at a late hour, dined, and were again crammed in 
 a car drawn by a locomotive, wi "eh dragged us twelve miles an 
 hour, and sent out sparks of fire enough to keep us constantly busy 
 in extinguishing them on our clothes. At Blakely we were again 
 crammed into a stage, and dragged about two miles an hour. 
 We crossed the Roanok»; River by torchlight in a flat boat, 
 passed through Halifax, Raleigh, Fayetteville, and Columbia, 
 where we spent the night. Here I met Dr. Glides, at whose 
 house we passed the evening, and wlio assisted me greatly ; at 
 his house I met President Thomas Cooper, who assured me he 
 had seen a rattlesnake '■ ■! bafine rail fence on his land. I 
 received from the treasury of the State four hundred and twenty 
 dollars on account of its subscription for one copy of the ' Birds 
 of America.' " 
 
 Dreading the railway, he hired a carriage for forty dollars 
 to proceed to Charleston, where he arrived in four days, and 
 found his sou John, and was kindly received, with his wife, by 
 the Rev. John Backman. 
 
 " Cliarleston, S. C, October 24, 1833. Our time at Charleston 
 ht>s been altogether pleasant. The hospitality of our friends 
 cannot be described, and now that we are likely to be connected 
 hy family ties I shall say no more on this head." John and 
 Victor Audubon were subseciuently married to daughters of 
 this gentleman. 
 
 " j\[y time was well em})loyed ; 1 hunted for new birds or 
 .■ieurched for more knowledge of old. 1 drew ; I wrote many 
 long pages. 1 obtained a few new subscribers, and made some 
 collections on account of my work. 
 
 " My proposed voyage to Floi'ida, which was proposed for the 
 3rd of November, was abandoned on accoimt of the removal of 
 my good friend Captain Robert Day from his former station to 
 New York, and 1 did not like to launch on the Florida reefs in 
 
?'! 
 
 ) I. 
 
 i : 
 
 ^ 
 
 'B 
 
 if 
 
 
 HI 
 
 3H 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 the care of a young officer unknown to me ; and besides thid, 
 my son Victor wrote me from England desiring my return. So 
 we began to prepare gradually for a retrograde movement 
 towards tlio north, and on the 1st of March we left our friends 
 and Cliarleston to return to xSew York. We travelled through 
 North and South Carolina, and reached Norfolk, Va., on the 
 Gth ; went up the bay to Washington, thence to Baltimore, and 
 took lodgings at Theodore Anderson's in Fayette Street. 
 
 " At Baltimore we saw all our friends and obtained three new 
 subscribers, and lost one, a banker." Here Audubon remained 
 about a month ; went to Plulaclelphia to collect money, whicli 
 he found rather difficult ; and passed on to New York. 
 
 ■a 
 
 » 1 e: 
 
 C3 
 
 pi : 
 
 Pi': 
 
 4 
 
 iU 
 
 1 1,-tl 
 
CHAPTER LI. 
 
 ItKTiiRV TO England — Visit to Baron Kotiisciiild — Quker IhxriPTiox — 
 ]{ksult,s of the Visit — Hemoval to KuiNiiuuaii — Hetuhn to Lon- 
 don — Embauks with much Live Stock fob New York — Notes uy 
 THE Way. 
 
 April IG, 1834. After remaining two weeks in New York, 
 Audubon, his wife, and son John, sailed on the above date 
 for Liverpool, " in the superb packet, the North America, com- 
 manded by that excellent gentleman, Mr. Dixey of Philadelphia. 
 Our company was good ; our passage was good ; the first hmd 
 we saw was Holyhead, and in nineteen days after leaving 
 America we were put ashore in Old England." Audubon saw 
 his friends in Liverpool, who had lost none of their former 
 cordiality and kindness ; and after a few days he left with his 
 family, by the way of Birmingham, for London. 
 
 "May 12. We reached London to-day and found our sou 
 Victor (piite well, and were all happy. ]\[y work and business 
 was going on prosperously." Vfter remaining several weeks iu 
 London, pud seeing to n.atteis rehiting to his publication there, 
 Audubon and his son Victor went to deliver letters of in- 
 troduction which they had brought. Among those letters was 
 cue from one of the firm of the distinguished American banking- 
 house of Prime, Ward, and King, to the famous London banker, 
 liothschild. "The letter was addressed to Baron EothschikI, 
 the man who, notwithstanding his original poverty, is now so 
 well known through his immense wealth, which he usi^s a^ 
 
s 
 
 ;u(] 
 
 T.IFK OF AUDllMON. 
 
 
 %. 
 
 D 
 
 i ! 
 
 ! ! 
 
 
 11. 
 
 ,5 1 
 
 
 m' ' 
 
 
 
 
 liiinlvtT, j()l>l)or, iiimI lender of iiu»iiey. Wo found no ililliciiltv 
 in Hscertiiininij; tin* [tliu'e of biiHiin'ss of llio yi-eiit UHun>r. 
 15u8inosH in London is thoron^ddy iniilter of fact; no extcu-iiiil 
 pomp indiented the count in^-lioiiso of llie luintn ; iliere was 
 nolliinj; to distin^nisli it from llio.so of men of leHs enornidtis 
 ciipitiil ; aitd we walived into his private oHice witlioul any 
 Iiindrance, and introduced ourscdvcs without any intn»(hicer. 
 
 '* Tile Uaron was not |ireaent, hut we were toltl hy a {jfood- 
 h)okin<; youn^' f^fentleman that he would coint; in in u lew 
 nunutes; and so he did. Soon a corpident man appeared, 
 hitchin;;- n|) iiis trousiM's, and a face red with tlie exertion of 
 walkinj::, and without iu)ticin^' any ono present, dropped his Cut 
 body into IV com fort abh^ chair, as if carinji; for no ono olso in this 
 with' worhl bnt himself. Whilo tho IJaron sat, wo stood, with 
 our hats held respectfully in our hands. 1 stepped forward, uiul 
 with a bow tendiMvd him n»y credentials. ' Pray, sir,' said tho 
 num of ji^olden consetpience, ' is this u letter of business, or is it 
 a mere letter of introduction?' This I could not well answer, 
 for I had not read tho contents of it, and I was forced to answer 
 rather awkwardly that 1 could not toll. Tho banker tlien 
 opcnied tho letter, road it with tho nmnner of one* who was 
 lookinj; only at tho tom[ioral siilo of thin<;s, and after reading 
 it, said, ' 'i'his is only a letter of introduction, and I expect fiom 
 its contents that you are tho publisher of somo book or other 
 and need my subscription.' 
 
 " Had a nuiu tho size of a mountain spoken to mo in that, 
 arropuit style in America, 1 should have indijijnantly rcscMited 
 it; but where 1 then was it soemed best to swallow and dij^ost 
 it as well as I could. So in reply to tho oll'ensivo arropince of 
 this banker, I said I should he honoured by his subscription to 
 tho ' l>irds of America.' 'Sir,' he .said, ' I never sij:;n my name 
 to any subscription list, but you nmy send in your work and I 
 will pay for a copy of it. Gentlemen, 1 am busy, I. wi.sli you 
 good-morning.' We were bu y ni'Mi, too, and so bowing respect- 
 fully, we retired, i>retty well s,(tisiie(l with the small slice of his 
 t)pulenco which our labour was likely to obtain. 
 
 " A few (lays afterwards 1 sent the first volumo of my work 
 half bomid, an<l all tho numbers besides, then published. On 
 seeing thorn we were told that ho ordered tho bearer tv 'ike 
 
ioiiiid no (liiliciilty 
 
 llin great iiHiii(>r. 
 1" fact ; no cxtcu'iial 
 ' baron ; tlicsro wus 
 II of IcHs ciiornuiiiH 
 
 ollicc without iiiiy 
 any introducer. 
 I'ro lolcl l)y a }j;()(i(l- 
 cotne in in a tew 
 L>nt man appeared, 
 'itli the exertion of 
 enl, (lropp(!(l his tat 
 r no one else in this 
 sat, wo stood, with 
 t('[)ped forward, und 
 
 l*ray, sir,' said tho 
 
 of business, or is it 
 
 hi not Well answer, 
 
 :as forced to answer 
 
 Tlio banker then 
 cr of on(* who was 
 <, and after n^ading 
 
 and 1 i^xpect tioiu 
 onu) book or other 
 
 en to nio in that 
 
 idif^nantly resented 
 
 swallow and di-jjest 
 
 nsivo arrojjjance of 
 
 lis subscription to 
 
 I'ver sif^n my niune 
 
 n your work anil I 
 
 busy, I wish you 
 
 so bowing rospeet- 
 
 > small slice of his 
 
 in. 
 
 )lume of my work 
 en published. On 
 he bearer te. ''ike 
 
 GOES 'I'O KniNl'UROir. 
 
 ;5i7 
 
 
 tli( 111 to his lionse, which \,as done directly. NnmlxM* aft(fr 
 iiiniiher was sent and delivered to tho IJaron, and aftc^r eight 
 or ten months my son nuido out his account and sent it by 
 Mr. Jhiv»;ll, my engraver, to his banking-hous(!. Th(( IJiiron 
 louk(,'d at it with amazement, and cried out, ' What, a hun I red 
 |ioinids i't.r birds! \\'liy,sir, 1 will giv(! you five pounds, and not a 
 fiirthing more.' ]iepr(^scn(ations wete niad(! to him of the 
 leaguiiicence and expense of the work, and how ph'as(!(l his 
 liuroness and wealthy childnd*. would be to have a copy ; but 
 ihc great linancier was unrelenting. The copy of t' ork was 
 actually sent back to ]\lr. Jlavell's shop, and ai- lound that 
 instituting legal procee(lings against him would cost uumi than 
 it would eomelo, I k(!pt the work, and altiu'wards sold it to a 
 man with less money but a nobler heart. What a distance 
 then! is betwe<n two such nxMi as the JJaron Rothschild of 
 liOiidon and the merchant of Savannah 1" 
 
 Audidxju remained in Lon(h)n looking alter his work and 
 interests tlujre until the fall of 18IM, when he went with his 
 family to Edinburgh, wliero ho hired a house and spent a next 
 year and a half. 
 
 There is no journal describing the incidents of that residence 
 in Edinlmrgli; und it is probable, for the reason that Audubon 
 (lid not keep a daily nu'ord there at all. 'J'he journal was 
 written chielly with tin; design to keep his wife and children 
 informed of all his iloings when ho was absent from them, and 
 they were with him during this p(>riod, and so there was no 
 neeesaity for it ; and secondly, he was daily so busily occupied 
 with other writing that Ins had no tinn; to devote to that, or 
 even his favourite work of drawing and painting. Some idea 
 of the amount of his laboui at that period may be inferred 
 from tho fact, that the introduction to volume second of his 
 " AuKirican ()rnithoh)gical Biography," which contains five hun- 
 diod and eighty-live pages of closidy-printed nuitter, is dated 
 December 1st, 18.'I4 ; und that in just one year from that date, 
 the third volume, containing six hundred and thirty-eight pages, 
 was printed and published. 
 
 In tlu! summer of 1830 he removed his family to London, 
 and having settled them in Wimpole-street, Cavendish Square, 
 lie again made his .preparations to return to America, and 
 
\\ 
 
 K<! 
 
 * 1: 
 
 
 M 
 
 
 li i 
 
 I', I 
 
 « 
 
 S; 
 
 '.4- 
 
 ni8 
 
 i-in-: oi' AUDUBON. 
 
 nmko tho oxcnrsion into Honio of tlio Houtherii States, wliidi 
 ho had been contomplating lor a lon^ tiino, for tlio purpoH(> of 
 iii(M(>asin}^ tho iKnv varieties of birds for his great work. 
 
 Jnfi/ SO, IS.'U), the jonriuil begins, saying that Mr. Anchibon 
 l(ift London that day with lu's son Jolin for J'ortsmonth, where 
 ho arrived tho next (hiy, and took |)assag(> on board tho packet 
 ship (Jladiator, (^aptain Hritton, for New York. 
 
 ** Atif/Hsi 1. Somewhat before tho setting of tho sun wo went 
 on board, ate and (h-ank, and hiid ourselves down in those llout- 
 ing eataeombs, vulgarly ealled berths. When tho (Jladiator Ict't 
 St. Katherine's Doek she had on our a(M'ount two hundred iiiul 
 sixty live birds, three (higs received as a present from our iioblo 
 friend, the Earl of Derby, and a brace of tailless eats from oiir 
 friend Uc'orge Thackery, D.J )., provost of King's College. Tin y 
 had been on board several days, and s(M'med not to hav(! receiviMl 
 much care, and simic of tho birds had died. Ihit tin; dogs ami 
 some of tho birds weni alive, and crossed tho Atlantic safely. 
 
 ^^ Augmt 2. About live this afternoon tho anchor was ajioak, 
 several new persons were hoisted on deck, our .'^ails were spread 
 to the brce/e, and tho Gladiator smoothly glided on her ('dUise, 
 'i'he passengers were a fair average as to iigreeability, ami 
 among them was Wallack tlu; actor, who amused us with soiuf 
 admirable puns. Tho voyage was prosiierous, and the tiiuo 
 passed pleasantly, until wo ai)}>roached tho banks of Is'ewlbniid- 
 land, when wo began to fear and dream of icebergs and disasters; 
 but none came, and the Gladiator kept her course stciKlily 
 onward, when, just flvo weeks ai'ter leaving England, in tlio 
 afternoon, the highlands of Neversink were discovered, ubuiit 
 fifteen miles distant, 'riio welcome news of our approach to 
 the Hook thrilled my heart with ccstacy. 
 
 "Tho evening was dark, and no pilot in sight; and rockets 
 were thrown up from the ship to attract one. This soon brought 
 one alongside, and an American tar leaped on board. Oh! my 
 liUcy, thou knowest me, but I cried like a child, and when our 
 anchor was dropped, and rested on the ground of Ameriea, thy 
 poor husband laid himself down on his knees, and there thankod 
 God for His preservation of myself and our dear son. 
 
 " All was now bustle and mutual congratulations ; onr com- 
 mander was praised for his skill by some, and others praised his 
 
 ■mm. 
 
AimiVAL AT NEW YOllK, 
 
 .T1(» 
 
 ithcrn Slutfs, wliicli 
 S for tlu) piiri)OH(^ (if 
 great work. 
 ; that ]\lr. Andulxm 
 r J'ort.sinouth, wht'iv 
 on board tlio piu'kct 
 ork. 
 
 f of tho sun we went 
 1 down in tlios(> (lout- 
 It'll tlio (JIadiator Idt 
 int two liuiidri'd ami 
 •('Sent from our iidblo 
 tail loss cats from our 
 injii's Collogo. Tlit'v 
 il not to liavo rot'oivt'd 
 1. l?ut tho do;j;s ami 
 lio Atlantic safely. 
 10 anchor was a peak, 
 our sails were spread 
 glided on her eoursc, 
 
 to a{j;reeability, and 
 amused na with stiiiii' 
 lorous, and the time 
 ) banks of Nowlbuiid- 
 
 ebergsand disaslcrs; 
 
 hor course stcailily 
 ing England, in tlio 
 ro discovered, ulxmt 
 
 of our approach to 
 
 whiskey pnneh, whieli tlio waiters handed about, and the niglit 
 was nearly spt»nt in rovt^Iry ; but John and myst'll" retired ut 
 two o'clock. 
 
 " It rained luird and bhnv all night, but \ slept comfortably, 
 and awoke tho next morning at four o'(!lock as happy as any 
 inaa coidd be three thousand miles from tho dearest friend he 
 jiad on earth. As a gleam of daylight appeaicid, my eyi-s 
 searched through tho hazy atmosphoro to catch a glimpse of 
 tho land, and gradually Stateii rsliind opened on my view ; then 
 tho boat t»f tho custom- Iiouse olhcer appeared, and soon ho 
 boarded us, arranged tin; sailors and ])assengers on dvA'k, and 
 called their names. Then followed breakfast, and soon another 
 boat with a yellow Hag Hying landed the health olllcer, and 
 there being no sickness on board, niyscdf and John returned to 
 Staton Island in tho doctor's boat, and were tak(ui by tho 
 Bt(;aMier Hercules to tho city, where we were welcomed by 
 relatives and friends." 
 
 ■y 
 
 Ml 
 
 n sight; and rockets 
 
 0. This soon brought 
 
 on board. Oh ! my 
 
 child, and whou our | 
 
 )und of America, thy 
 
 ;s, and there thanked 
 
 dear son. 
 
 •atulations ; our com- 
 nd others praised liis 
 
■ I 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 320 
 
 LIFI-; 01'' AUDUUON. 
 
 !.t 
 
 
 
 CI 
 
 lis* 
 
 !i 
 
 CIIAPTEU Mr. 
 
 In AMK.nirA — Pki.awauk T?ivku — rmi.Ain'.i.PiiiA — Boston — Fhikkdr Axn 
 Binns — TnoMAH NrrrAM. — Kxcithsion to Saf.km— A " ni;A(;Tii.iii, 
 Bmik-Sto<kin(»'' — Mi;i;tin(> with I)anii;i, Wkiistkk — lUcK to Nhw 
 
 YoItK — SllCIAFi MkKTINOS TllOlHillTM CONCKUN'INd WlI.HON TDK Oli- 
 
 NlTlloLOdlST. 
 
 Septemher V^. AununoN romuined in New York until tliia dntc, 
 obtiiinod two snl)S('ril)(>rs and tho proniisd of two inoro, visited 
 tho niavk(^ts and found a low spocimonH of new birds, and left 
 for Philiidclpliia; paid tlirt^e dollars for liiw faro on the stoiuner 
 S\uin, and fifty cents for his dinner; " Imt," th(> journal adds, 
 " we wore too thick to thrive. I could g(!t only a piece of 
 bread and butter, snatehc^d from the table at a favourable 
 numient. 
 
 " I found the country through which we passed greatly im- 
 proved, dotted with new buildings, and the Deluware lliver 
 seemed to me handsomer than ever. I reached I'hiladelphia 
 at six o'clock p.m., and found Dr. Harlan waiting for mo on the 
 wharf, and he took me in his carriage to his hospitable lioiise, 
 where I was happy in the presence of his aniii'de wife and 
 interesting son. 
 
 " September 14. Went to the market with Dr. Harlan at five 
 o'clock this morning ; certainly this market is the finest one in 
 America. The flesh, fish, fruit and vegetables, and fowls, are 
 abiuidant, and about fifty per cent, less than in New York; 
 where, in fact, much of the produce of Pennsylvania and New 
 Jersey is taken now-a-days for sale — even game ! I bought two 
 
IIK VIHI'I'S nOHTON. 
 
 821 
 
 Horim (podar hinlH) for forty conts, that in Now York \\onh\ 
 liHVO hnnififht fifty cciitrt. After hniiUfaHt went to tli(! Aciulnny 
 of Niitural SciciuvH, met Dr. I'ifOtcriii^', and liad a j^rrat tnuit in 
 looking ovcir and handling tli(> raro collection made l>y Nuttall 
 atul TowiiHcnd i.i their excursion on and over tho KocUy iNfoun- 
 tiviiiH. It heh)nj!;H to the Acach^my, wliiidi asHisted the travellers 
 with funds to ])i*os(riito their journey ; it contains about forty 
 now specicH of birds, and its vahi<i cannot be desi^ibed." 
 
 Aiidubon Hi)ent only a day or two in Philad(^Iphia, saw 
 liis old friends there, was present at one of the meetings of tho 
 Acii(l(>my, obtained a few new birds, and returne«l to New York. 
 Mr. Kdward Harris, his old friend, calhnl to H(^o liim ; and when 
 lie was told of tho now species of birds obtained by Townsend, 
 " offered to givo mo fivo hundred dollars towards purchasing 
 them. Is not this u noble fronorosity to show for the lovo of 
 scK^iu'o r 
 
 " Boston, Sej>temler 20, 18'M\. I < .mio hero from New York, 
 via the steamer ]\Ta8sa('husetts and tho Providence Railroad, 
 for seven dollars, which ineluded supper and breakfast. Thero 
 were thre(i hundred passengers, and among them several persons 
 known to me. A thick fog compelled the steamer to anchor at 
 midnight; in tho morning our sail uj) the bay to Providence 
 was like a fairy dream. Nature looked so beautiful and grand, 
 and so congenial to my feelings, that I wanted nothing but thy 
 dear self here, Lucy, to complete ray happiness. The locomotive 
 pulled us from Providoncre to Poston at the rate of tifteen miles 
 an hour ; wo arrived at four r.M. ; a cart took my trunk, and 
 seating myself by the side of the owner, we drove to the house 
 of my friend Dr. George C. Shattiick. Tho family soon 
 gathered for tea, and I was now happy, and after talking for a 
 while I retired to rest in the same room and bed where John 
 and I slept after our return from liabrador." 
 
 Audubon spent several days in Boston visiting the public in- 
 stitutions and his friends, among whom he mentions Mr. Everett, 
 Dr. Bowditch, Dr. Gould, and Mr. David, " where I found Maria 
 
 1) , now IMrs. IMotley, as handsome as ever, and her husband 
 
 not far short of seven feet high." 
 
 " Spptemher 20. Went to the market and bought a fine pigeon 
 hawk for two cents, which is now found in Massachusetts. 
 
 Y 
 
y 
 
 ■,! 
 
 ■Ill 
 
 t>4. 
 
 \AV\'', Ol'^ AlIIXinON. 
 
 
 III*"' 
 
 CI '4 
 
 ) . v' 
 
 f** '■>■' 
 
 I! 
 
 VisittMl Hoxlniry with ThotiuiH llrovvor, a yonnpf man of mucli 
 ornillM)l(»gi('al liiHto, to hoc his colliu'tion of Hkins and I'gjjN; 
 foniul hiw niothor and family vory kind and obliging, and nnvivcd 
 from him Hov(>n <'ggM of Hnch «|)c<'i('8 iw I havo not. Uottinu'd 
 and viHitcd David Mckloy. iho groat sahn on ilHlior : in'omiscd to 
 broakfaNt with him to-morrow. 
 
 *' Scjjfomhcr 2,1 . Wont to market a,nd bought a fcnialo hhio 
 t(Mil r«»r l(>n r(>ntH. (^allod on Dr. Stnror, and heard that our 
 h>anied fri(M\d Thomas Nnttall had just n^ttirned from (yaliforniii. 
 I sent Mr. ih'ower after him, and waited with impatieiuMi for a 
 Hight of tho great trav<<ller, wlioni we admired ho mneh wlion 
 w.) woro in thin lino city. Ii he ramo, liHey, the vory Hnmo 
 '! iiomaH Nnttall, and in a few minutes wo discnsHed ii rnii- 
 Hiderabh^ portiiai o( his travels, adventures, and ha|»|o' n^tnm to 
 this land of ha|)|)ineHS. lie promised to obtain nut duplieiittvs of 
 all tho species h(> had brought for the Acideiny at I'liiladelplim, 
 and to breakfast with ns to-nntrro . and wo partcul as wo 
 havo bofoit', friends, bcjit on tho promotion of tho Hci(>nco wo 
 study. 
 
 " St'pfi'iuhor 22. This hns betMi adayof <hiys with mo; Nnttall 
 brenkfaste(l with ns, and related nna'h «>f his jotn-ney on tlic 
 I'acitic. and presented me with liv«< new s|)(>eies of birds oblainoil 
 by hims(df, and which ar(» named iil't(>r him. Ono of Dr. SImt- 
 tuck's stiidents drove nn> in the doctor's gig to call on (Jovcnior 
 Everett, who received mo aa kindly as over ; and th(>n to tlio 
 house of {'resident 'rinnayt)f Jbirvard University, wh(<re rsawiiis 
 family ; and then to Judg(> Story's. Then crossing tho couatrv, 
 wo drovo to Col. .1. 11. J'erkins', and on tho wiiy I bought a lino 
 undo whitoheadcul eagle for live dollars. On my return I 
 learned that at a mooting of the Natural History Society yester- 
 day a resolution >vas passed to subscriho for my work. 
 
 " Dr. IJowditch advised nn* to go to Salem, and with his usual 
 anxiety to promote tin* welfare of (iV(!ry ono, gavo nm letters to 
 Messrs. Poalnxly and Cloveland of that place, requesting tiicin to 
 interest themselves to get tho Athena;nm to subscrilio for uiy 
 work. 
 
 •* ScUem, Mass., Septemher 2'^, 1830. Rose early this moruiii;:, 
 and made preparations to go to Salom ; and at seven o'clock I 
 was in tho stage, rolling out of Boston towards this bcttutii'iil 
 
A IIT,I1K-HT()(!KIN0. 
 
 Mi'S 
 
 rounp; man of mucli 
 of HUins and ogfj;H; 
 )l)li}i;ing, and rnocMvcd 
 liavo not. UotnriuMl 
 I lislu!!' : inonnwcd to 
 
 ()Ufi;ht a fonalo bluo 
 and Iirard tluvt mt 
 irni'd front Oalifoniia, 
 with inipat.icncM' forn 
 inir;<d ho mncli wlion 
 laicy, i\w vory Humo 
 wo (liHcnsHcd a «'nn- 
 , and happ^' rcMnni In 
 tliiiii mo du|iliciit('M of 
 liMiiyai ri\ilatl('li>liia, 
 h\ \\i) partod as we 
 )n of lUo Hcionoo wo 
 
 ays with mo; Nultnll 
 f liiH joiuMioy on tlio 
 cicH of Itirdw obdiiiKMl 
 ()n(5 of Dr. Slmt- 
 ^r <o call on (lovornor 
 r; and then to llu' 
 irsity, \vlu'r(> Isawliis 
 croHHinfi: tho o(»nntry, 
 o way I l>oU}:;lit afiiio 
 On n»y return 1 
 listory Kocioly ycstcr- 
 r my work. 
 m, and with his nsiiiil 
 0, gave n»o letters to 
 0, reqnoHtin;>; tlieiii to 
 to Bubscrilio for my 
 
 early thiH nn)rniii,!:, 
 vnd at 8eveu o'eKn'li I 
 )\vard8 'this boaatitiil 
 
 and qniot village. Tho road inii?l»t Ik> oallod Homi-aquatie, m it 
 piiHseH over bridges and oinbnidcmonts throngh Halt niarHhe(!i of 
 firciit extent, bounded by wnod«Mi hillH towardrt tho Hoa, and 
 (hstunt onoH itdand. VVe stopped n f(«\v uiomeiitH at Sliooinaker 
 Town (livmj), where I paid one dollar for my fan^ and renched 
 this pince aftcM'wards at half-past f(<n." 
 
 "1 was put down at th(» lial'ayette Hotel, and soon made my 
 way to Mr. ('l(^V(dand'H o(1ie(!; \m ree,eiv<Ml mo kindly, ami invited 
 1110 to din(< with him at om^ o'clock. I took Homo ba(!k nnndnu's 
 of my ' Minis of America' to Miss llurl(>y, and found horan g«»od, 
 iiiniahle, and generous as over ; and she at once interested herself 
 Id nndiothe objei^tof my visit sueccssful. Called on Dr. I'ierHon, 
 to whom I had a letter, and met a most congenial Hju'rit^ a man 
 ol'taliMifs and agreeable uiaiuwrs. The Doctor went with mo to 
 soo several i»erHims lik(dy to bo interested in my work; an<i I 
 llicn calbvl ulone oti a Miss Sitsby, a IxMiutifid bluo,' Hovcai or 
 cifflit seasons beyond her teens, and very wealthy. UluoH do 
 not knit socks, nr put «>n buttouH when ncuuled ; thoy nuiy do 
 for the parlour, but not for the kitchen. Although sho has tho 
 eyes of a gazelle, and capital teidJi, I HO(«i <liscover(!d that sho 
 would hi) no In^lp lo mo: when I mc^ntioned subscription, it 
 scrnicd to fall on her ears, not as tho <rad(;nc(M»f tho wood thrush 
 or mocking binl does in mine, but as a shower-bath in j^ohl 
 January. Ornithology seenuMl to bo a thing for vvhi<'h sho had 
 no ta'~l(!; she saicl, how(!V<u-, ' I will suggest yoiu' wish to my 
 fatlicr, sir, and give yon an answer to-morrow morning.' Sho 
 showed ni(> some viduablo |)ictur(>H, cHp(!cially one by that king 
 (ifSpiunHh painters, MtP'illo, represc^nting himself, and giui, and 
 (log; the Spanish dress and tout en^einhh brought to my mind 
 my inniginations r('sp(H'ting (»il Dlas. At last I bowod, sho 
 curtsied, and so tho interview ended. 
 
 " Hcftemher %). '(Jh'min faisant.' \ mot tho curator of tho 
 Natural Jlistory Soeit^ty of Sahun, and gladly accoptod Ids 
 invitation to examine the* yoiuig collection of that now-born 
 institution, and tlu;ro I had tho good fortuno to find one ogg of 
 tho American bittern. 
 
 " It. was now nearly ono o'(^lo(d{, and going to tho ofllco of 
 Mr. (lovelnnd, I foumi hhn waiting to conduct mo to his houso, 
 W(> soon ent(>red it and his dining-room, whoro I saw threo 
 
 V 2 
 
■"I 
 
 ^i'^ 
 
 I a 
 
 
 
 Ut I' 
 
 .41. 
 
 
 324 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 lovely daughters and a manly-looking youth, their brother. 
 The dinner was excellent, and served simply ; but as our future 
 bread and butter depend on my exertions, I excused myself as 
 soon as convenient, and went to Dr. Pierson, who accompanied 
 me to call on some gentlemen who would be likely to take an 
 interest in my work." 
 
 Audubon returned on September 24th to Boston, and remained 
 there one week, visiting his friends and looking for subscribers 
 to liis Birds. 
 
 " September 27. The citizens are all excitement ; guns are 
 firing, flags flying, anl troops jiarading, and John Quiney 
 Adams is delivering a eulogy on the late President Madison. 
 The mayor of Boston did me the honour to invite me to join in 
 the procession, but I am no politician, and declined. 
 
 "I dined with Dr. B. C. Green, President of the Natiiral 
 History Society, with President Quincy, Isaac P. Davis, and 
 Mr. Nuttall. In the evening Dr. Shattuck finished the subscrip- 
 tion list of the society, by presenting me to his lady, who 
 subscribed for one-tenth, and the Dr. then put down his sou 
 George's name for one-twentieth, making in his own family one- 
 fourth of the whole, or two hundred and twenty dollars, for 
 which he gave me his cheque. Without the assistance of this 
 generous man, it is more than probable that the society never 
 would have had a copy of the ' Birds of America.' 
 
 " Sej^temher 29. Mr. Isaac P. Davis called to invite me to 
 spend the evening at his house, and to meet Daniel Woh.stcr, 
 I met him at the Historical Society, where I saw the l(V<t 
 epaulets worn by our glorious AVashington, many of his j\I8, 
 letters, and the coat Benjamin Franklin wore at the Freucli 
 and English eouics. 
 
 *' Mr. Davis has some fine pictures, which I enjoyed looking 
 at, and after a while Daniel Webster came, and we welcomed 
 each other as friends indeed, and after the usual compliments 
 on such occasions we had much conversation respecting my 
 publication. He told me he thought it likely a copyright of I 
 our great work might be secured to you and our children. )Ve 
 took tea, talked of ornithology and ornithologists ; he promised 
 to send me some specimens of birds, and finished by subscribing 
 to my work. I feel proud, Lucy, to have that great man's name 
 
routh, their brother. 
 ly ; but as our future 
 I excused myself as 
 )n, who accompanied 
 be likely to take an 
 
 Boston, and remained 
 )oking for subscribers 
 
 xcitement; guns are 
 ;, and John Quincy 
 e President Madison. 
 invite me to join in 
 declined. 
 
 ident of the Natiiral 
 IsaiiC r. Davis, and 
 ; finished the subscrip- 
 me to his lady, who 
 jn put down his sou 
 n his own family one- 
 d twenty dollars, for 
 the assistance of tliis 
 hat the society never 
 n erica.' 
 
 ailed to invite me to 
 ;neet Daniel Webster. 
 vhere I saw the liv<t 
 ,on, many of liis MB. 
 wore at the Freuuli 
 
 ch I enjoyed looking 
 me, and we welcomed 
 le usual compliinents 
 sation respecting my 
 likely a copyright of 
 nd our children. We 
 lologists ; he promised 
 iiiished by subscribing 
 that great man's name 
 
 ■■■.'■» 
 
 MR. WEBSTER'S LETTER. 
 
 326 
 
 on our list, and pray God to grant him a long life and a happy 
 one. Mr. Webster gave me the following note : — 
 
 " ' I take this mode of commending Mr. Audubon to any 
 friends of mine he may meet in his journey to the west. I 
 have not only great respect for Mr. Audubon's scientific 
 pursuits, but entertain for him personally much esteem and 
 hearty good wishes. 
 
 " * Daniel Webster.' " 
 
 After obtaining a few more subscribers, and delivering some 
 numbers of his Birds to former subscribers, Audubon bid adieu 
 to his friends in Boston, and returned to New York. 
 
 " October 10. Had a pleasant call from Washington Irving, 
 and promise of valuable letters to Van Buren and others in 
 Washington. After dinner went to Mr. Cooper's, the naturalist, 
 who at first with some reluctance showed me his birds. We 
 talked of ornithology, and he gave me five pairs of sylvia, and 
 promised to see me to-morrow. 
 
 " October 11. At nine o'clock Mr. Cooper came to see me, and 
 examined the third volume of our work. He remained two 
 hours, conversing on our favourite study, and I was pleased to 
 find him more generously inclined to forward my views after he 
 had seen the new species given me by Nuttall. I went to his 
 house with him, and he gave me several rare and valuable 
 specimens, and promised me a list of the birds found by himself 
 and Ward in the State of New York. 
 
 " October I'i. Called on Inman the painter ; saw the sketch 
 intended for thee, but found it not at all like thy dear self. Ho 
 says ho makes twelve thousand dollars a year by his work. 
 Dined at Samuel Swartout's, a grand dinner, with Mr. Fox, the 
 British minister, Mr. Buckhcad, secretary of legation, Thomas 
 Moore the poet. Judge Parish, and sundry others. Mrs. S. 
 ami her daughter were present ; all went off in good style, and 
 I gieatly enjoyed myself. Several of the party invited me to 
 visit them at their residences, and General Stewart of Baltimore 
 invited me to make his house my home when I visited there. 
 
 " October 15. W^e have packed our trunks and sent them on 
 board the steamer, and leave this evening for Philadelphia. 
 

 1 
 
 ■ ) 
 
 li 
 
 * m 5 
 
 \ 
 
 P 
 
 ■ir.---. 
 
 
 
 D 
 
 1; 
 
 11? 
 
 
 |8l »^'V 
 
 
 326 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 The weather has been perfectly serene and beautiful, and the 
 Bay of New York never looked more magnificent and grand to 
 me. We soon glided across its smooth surface and entered 
 the jarrow and sinuous Bantan ; and as I saw flocks of ducks 
 winging their way southward, I felt happy in the thought that I 
 should ere long follow them to their winter abode. We soon 
 reached the railroad, and crossed to the Delaware, and before 
 six o'clock reached the house of my good friend Dr. Harlan." 
 
 Here Audubon saw many of his old friends, visited the 
 public works and institutions, and obtained a few new species of 
 birds. After speaking of the great changes in that city, the 
 journal says : " Passed poor Alexander Wilson's school-house, aud 
 heaved a sigh. Alas, poor Wilson ! would that I could once 
 more speak to thee, and listen to thy voice. When I was a 
 youth, the woods stood unmolested here, looking wild and fresh 
 as if just from the Creator's hands; but now hundreds of streets 
 cross them, and thousands of houses and millions of diverse 
 improvements occupy their places : Barton's Garden is the only 
 place which is unchanged. I walked in the same silentious 
 mood I enjoyed on the same spot when fii-st I visited the 
 present owner of it, the descendant of William Barton, the 
 generous friend of Wilson." 
 
 If 
 1/ 
 
ind beautiful, and the 
 gniiiceiit and grand to 
 surface and entered 
 I saw flocks of ducks 
 ' in the thought that I 
 iter abode. We soon 
 Delaware, and before 
 friend Dr. Harlan." 
 d friends, visited the 
 i a few new species of 
 nges in that city, the 
 son's school-house, aud 
 [Id that I could once 
 oice. When I was a 
 looking wild and fresli 
 )w hundreds of streets 
 d millions of diverse 
 n's Garden is the only 
 1 the same silentioiis 
 ;n first I visited the 
 William Barton, the 
 
 CHAPTER LIII. 
 
 Washington — Two Letters of Washington Irving— Intsbview with 
 THE President — Visits to Officials of Congress — Proposed 
 Scientific Expedition -Dinner with Andrew Jackson. 
 
 On November 8th, Audubon arrived in Washington. Among 
 many other letters of introduction given to people in Wash- 
 uigtou, and transcribed carefully in the journal, are the two 
 following from Washington Irving. 
 
 Tanytown, October 19, 1836. 
 My dear Sir, 
 
 This letter will be handed to you by our distinguished 
 naturalist, Mr. J. J. Audubon. To one so purely devoted as 
 yourself to anything liberal and enlightened, I know I need say 
 nothing in recommendation of Mr. Audubon and his works; he 
 himself will best inform you of his views in visiting Washington, 
 and I am sure you will do anything in your power to promote 
 them. 
 
 He has heretofore received facilities on the part of the govern- 
 ment, in prosecuting his researches along our coast, by giving 
 him conveyance in our revenue cutters and other public vessels. 
 I trust similar civilities will be extended to him, and that he 
 will receive all aid and countenance in his excursions by land. 
 
 The splendid works of Mr. Audubon, on the sale of which he 
 depends for the remuneration of a life of labour, and for pro- 
 vision for his family, necessarily, from the magnificence of its 
 
H I MI—I !■■ >^- » 1 
 
 "I , ' 
 
 Si 
 
 it-. \ 
 
 §IS^ 
 
 328 
 
 LIKE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 execution, is |Mit beyond the means of most individuals. It 
 must depend therefore on public institutions for its chief sale. 
 As it is a national work, and highly creditable to the nation, it 
 appears to nie that it is particularly deserving of national 
 patronage. Why cannot the departments of Washington furnish 
 themselves with copies, to be deiDosited in their libraries or 
 archives ? Think of these suggestions, and, if you approve of 
 them, act accordingly. 
 
 With the highest esteem and regard, 
 I am, dear sir. 
 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 Washington Ikying. 
 
 JiENJAMlN J. BuTLEn, l^SQ., 
 
 Attorncy-GciiPi-al of tlio United States, W.'usliington, D.C. 
 
 i < 
 
 Tiirrytowii, October 19, 1836. 
 
 My dear Sir, 
 
 I take pleasure in introducing to you our distinguished 
 and most meritorious countryman, Mr. J. J. Audubon, whose 
 splendid work on American ornithology must of course be well 
 known to you.. That work, while it reflects such great credit on 
 our country, and contributes so largely to the advancement of 
 one of the most delightful departments of science, is likely, from 
 the extreme expense attendant upon it, to repay but poorly the 
 indefatigable labour of a lifetime. The high price necessarily 
 put on the copies of Mr. Audubon's magnificent work places it 
 beyond the means of the generality of private individuals. It 
 is entitled therefore to the especial countenance of our libraries 
 and various other public institutions. It appears to me, that 
 the different departments in Washington ought each to have a 
 copy deposited in their libraries or archives. Should you be 
 of the same opinion yon might be of great advantage in pro- 
 moting such a measure. 
 
 lleference is then made to the assistance rendered to 
 Audubon by the revenue cutters and public vessels, and the 
 letter continues : — 
 
 I trust similar facilities will still be extended to him ; in 
 fact, as his undertakings are of a decidedly national character, 
 
t individuals. It 
 s for its chief sale. 
 »le to the nation, it 
 erving of national 
 Washington furnish 
 their libraries or 
 if you approve of 
 
 ;ard, 
 
 uly, 
 
 [INGTON luVlNG. 
 
 D.C. 
 
 m, October 19, 1836. 
 
 our distinguished 
 L Audubon, whose 
 t of course be well 
 nch great credit on 
 16 advancement of 
 3nce, is likely, from 
 jay but poorly the 
 1 price necessarily 
 cent work places it 
 ite individuals. It 
 ice of our libraries 
 ppears to me, that 
 jht each to have a 
 Should you be 
 ; advantage in pro- 
 
 ance rendered to 
 ic vessels, and the 
 
 ended to him ; in 
 national character, 
 
 RECEIVED BY THE PRESIDENT, 
 
 329 
 
 and conducive of great national benefit, the most liberal 
 encouragement in every respect ought to be shown to him on 
 the part of our government. 
 
 I am, ray dear Sir, 
 
 Your attached Friend, 
 
 Washinqton Irving. 
 
 The Hon. Mahtin Van Buhen. 
 
 " Novenifber 8. Called on Colonel Abert, who received me 
 with his wonted civility, promised to assist me in all my desires, 
 and walked with me to the President's, to present my letters. 
 There we found Colonel Donaldson and Mr. Earle, both 
 nephews, I believe, of General Jackson, and in a moment I was 
 in the presence of this famed man, and had shaken his hand. 
 He read Mr. Swartout's letter twice, with apparent care, and 
 liaving finished, said, ' Mr. Audubon, I will do all in my power 
 to serve you, but the Seminole war will, I fear, prevent you 
 from having a cutter ; however, as we shall have a committee at 
 twelve o'clock, we will consider this, and give you an answer to- 
 morrow.' The general looked well, he was smoking his pipe, 
 and gave my letters to Colonel Donaldson, who read them 
 attentively, and as I left the room he followed us, and we talked 
 to him respecting the subscription of the different departments. 
 I like this man and his manners ; and I gave him the letters of 
 the Duke of Sussex and the Governor of the Hudson Bay 
 Company to read, and went to see Colonel Earle, who is engaged 
 in painting General Jackson's portrait. 
 
 " Colonel Abert then took me to Mr. Bradbury, Secretary 
 of the Treasury, who received me very politely, and after reading 
 my letters to him, promised me the use of the cutter. The 
 suhscription was also broached to him, but nothing decisive was 
 said; and so we passed over to Mr. Butler's ofKce, who is a 
 young man. He read Washington Irving's letter, laid it down, 
 and bi^gan a long talk about his talents, and after a while came 
 round to my business ; saying, that the government allows so 
 little money to the departments, that he did not think it probable 
 that their subscription could be obtained without a law to that 
 effect from Congress. This opinion was anything but gratifying ; 
 but he made many courteous promises to bring the matter 
 
• t 
 
 330 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 • 1 
 
 t 
 
 ! 
 
 o 
 
 i 
 
 
 I 
 
 % 
 
 If: 
 
 Si:'^ 
 
 St 
 
 
 'U 
 
 before tho next Congress, nml I bid him adior., hoping for tli« 
 best. 
 
 ** Called on Mr. John S. Meehtin, librnriun to Congress, ami 
 found him among his bookf.. After some agreeiblo conversation 
 respecting his work and my own, he asked me to dine with him 
 to-day, and to-morrow to visit the curious cliimney-sweep pos- 
 sessing ciuious knowledge of the Sora Kail, &c'. Accompanied 
 by Jolm, I took tea at Colonel Abert's, and then walked to 
 Mr. Bradbiny^s, to spend the evening. There the Colonel 
 handed me an order for the use of the cutter, and informed iiio 
 that the Treasury Department had subscribed for one copy of our 
 work. Mr. Bradbury also offered us a passage to Charlestown 
 in the cutter, Campbell, about to sail for that station. The 
 vessel is only lifty-li\e tons; and although Columbus crossed tho 
 Atlantic in scarcli of a new world in a barque yet more frail, 
 and although thy husband w ould go to the world's end after new 
 birds on land, he would not like to go from Baltimore on such 
 a vessel carrying three guns and twenty-one men. I am now 
 hoping soon to see again the reeding grounds of the wood ibis, 
 and the roseate s[)oonbill. 
 
 "November 9. To day Colonel Abert called with me on 
 Secretary Dickenson of the navy. He received us frankly, 
 talked of the great naval and scientific expedition round the 
 world now i)roposed to be fitted out by the government. To 
 my surprise and delight his views coincided exactly with mine, 
 He said he was opposed to frigates and large ships, and to great 
 immbers of extra sailors on su(^h an enterprise, M'hen only 
 peaceful objects wei3 intended. We differed, however, respect- 
 ing the number of the scientific corps : he was for a few, and I 
 for duplicates at least ; because in case of death or illness some 
 of the departments of science would suffer if only one person 
 were sent. He asked me respecting the fitness of certain 
 persons whose names had been mentioned for the voyage. But 
 I gave evasive answers, not wishing to speak of individuals who 
 are both unfit and inimical to me to this very day. Most 
 sincerely do I hope that this, our first great national scientific 
 expedition, may succeed, not only for the sake of science, but 
 also for the honour of our beloved country. I strongly recom- 
 mended George Lehman, my former assistant, as he is in every 
 
iclioi;, hoping for the 
 
 iun to Congress, and 
 .grec.iblo conversation 
 mo to diuG with him 
 I chinmey-sweep pos- 
 il, &c. Accompanied 
 and then walked to 
 There the Colonel 
 ter, and informed mo 
 )od for one copy of our 
 ssago to Charlestown 
 r that station. The 
 Columbus crossed tlio 
 arque yet more frail, 
 world's end after new 
 in Baltimore on such 
 ■one men. I am now 
 ands of the wood ibis, 
 
 called with me on 
 received us frankly, 
 expedition round the 
 he government. To 
 d exactly with mine, 
 ge ships, and to great 
 iiterprise, when only 
 red, however, respect- 
 was for a few, and I 
 death or illness some 
 if only one person 
 le fitness of certain 
 for the voyage. But 
 ik of individuals who 
 liis very day. Jfost 
 eat national scientific 
 sake of science, but 
 . I strongly recom- 
 ant, as he is in every 
 
 DINES WITH GENERAL JACKSON. 
 
 8U1 
 
 respect one of the best general draughtsmen I know. I also 
 recommended the son of Dr. McMurtrie (how strange, you will 
 gay), and young lleynolds of Boston, as an entomologist. 
 
 " The secretary paid mo some compliments, and told me the 
 moment the expedition had been mentioned he had thought of 
 me, and Nuttall, and Pickering — a glorious trio I 1 wish to 
 God that I were young once more ; how delighted I would bo to 
 go in such company — learned men and dear friends. Ho also 
 took us to his house, to see the work published by the French 
 government, of the voyages of L'Athidie, and presented by that 
 government to our own. It is a magnificent production, quite 
 French, and quite perfect. I next took John to tl'j White 
 Hoiise, which is the vulgar name for the President's residence. 
 Mr. Earle introduced us, and John saw for the first time that 
 extraordinary man, General Andrew Jackson. lie was very 
 kind, and as soon as he heard that wo intemled departing to- 
 moiTOW evening for Charlestown, invited us to dine with him 
 en famille. At the named hour we went to the White House, 
 and were taken into a room, where the President soon joined us. 
 I sat close to him ; we spoke of olden times, and touched 
 slightly on politics, and I found him very averse to the cause of 
 the Texans. We talked also of tho great naval expedition, 
 European affairs, &c. Dinner being announced, we went to tho 
 table with his two nephews. Colonel Donaldson being in tho 
 truest sense of the word a gentleman. The dinner was what 
 might be called })lain and substantial in England ; I dined from 
 a fine young turkey, shot witliin twenty miles of Washington. 
 The general drank no wine, but his health was drunk by us 
 more than once ; and he ate very moderately, his last dish con- 
 sisting of bread and milk. As soon as dinner was over we 
 returned to the first room, where was a picture, ay, a picture of 
 our great Washington, painted by Stewart, when in the prime of 
 his age and art. This picture, Lucy, was found during the \\ar 
 
 with England by 1^1 <. , who had it cut out of the frame, 
 
 rolled up, and removed to the country, as Mr. Earle told me. 
 It is the only picture in the whole house — so much for precious 
 republican economy. Coffee was handed, and soon after John 
 and I left, bidding adieu to a man who has done much good and 
 much evil to our country." 
 
* (■ 
 
 i 
 
 m 
 
 332 
 
 LIFE OP AUDUBON. 
 
 iV:. 
 
 
 ^ 
 n 
 
 n 
 
 CHAPTER LIV. 
 
 Excirr"' v South — Ramules round Charleston— Smarts in Cutter for 
 Galvf:ston Bay, Texas — Barataria Bay — Great Hunting Ex- 
 cursion WITH A Squatter. 
 
 " Charleston, 8. C, November 17, 1836. We arrived here last 
 evening, after an irksome and fatiguing journey, and seemingly 
 very slowly performed, in my anxiety to reach a resting place, 
 where friendship and love would combine to render our time 
 happy, and the prosecution of our labour pleasant. We were 
 hungry, thirsty, and dusty as ever two men could be ; but we 
 found our dear friends all well, tears of joy ran from their eyes, 
 and we embraced the whole of them as if borne from one 
 mother. John Backman was absent from home, but returned 
 at nine from his presidential chair at the Philosophical Society." 
 Audubon passed the winter of 1836 and 1837 in Charleston, 
 with his friend Dr. Backman, making occasional excursions into 
 the country, to the neighbouring sea islands, and also 'to Sa- 
 vannah and Florida. But the Seminole war then raging, lie 
 was unable to penetrate much into the interior. This winter he 
 began the studies in Natural History, which led to the publication 
 of the Quadrupeds of Nortli America, in connection with Dr. 
 Backman. Early in the spring, he appears to have left Charles- 
 ton, in the revenue cutter Campbell, Captain Coste, for explora- 
 tions in the Gulf of Mexico. The journals are lost which 
 describe the interval between the 17th of January and the 
 1st of April, under which latter date we read that Audubon, 
 
MRATARIA BAY. 
 
 333 
 
 hARTS IN Cutter for 
 Great Hunting Ex- 
 
 1 arrived here last 
 ney, and seemingly 
 !h a resting place, 
 ,0 render our time 
 )leasant. We were 
 
 could be ; but we 
 ■an from their e3'es, 
 if borne from one 
 lome, but returned 
 losophieal Society." 
 ,837 in Charleston, 
 Dnal excursions into 
 :1s, and also 'to Sa- 
 mr then raging, lie 
 or. This winter he 
 id to the publication 
 lonnection with Dr. 
 have left Charles- 
 i Coste, for explora- 
 lis are lost which 
 
 January and the 
 ead that Audubon, 
 
 his son John, and IVIr. Edward Harris, came down from New 
 Orleans, in the cutter, to the S. W. pass, provisioned for two 
 months, and bound wcstwardly from the mouth of the Mississippi 
 to (Jalvestou Bay, in Texas, with the intention of exploring the 
 iiarbour, keys, and bayous along the coast, and to examine tho 
 liabits of the birds of t'lis region, and to search for new H2)ecies, 
 tofurr'sh materials for the completion of tho fourth volume of 
 the " Birds of America." 
 
 " A^ril 3. We were joined this dny by Captain W. B. G 
 Taylor, of tho Itevenue service, with tho schooner Crusader, 
 t\\\'lve tons burden, two guns, and four men completely equipped 
 for our expedition, with a supply of seines, cast-nets, and other 
 fishing-tuckle." 
 
 The same day they entered Burataria Bay, and beg.vii opera- 
 tions, and found a variety of birds which aie described in the 
 journal. The next day the party landed, and made excursions 
 in ditferent directions, in pursuit of birds and eggs. Among 
 the spoils of game taken this day were two white pelicans, of 
 which there was an abundance. 
 
 The next three weeks were spent in visiting the islands and 
 bayous, and penetrating some of the rivers which pour into the 
 latter that occur along the coast between the IMississippi river 
 and Galveston. The j nrties landed at various points, and found 
 many new species of birds, and other interesting objects of 
 Natural History. In the course of one of these rambles, Audubon 
 made the acquaintance of a squatter, a great hunter, and with 
 whom he went on an excursion, which is thus described : — 
 
 "I entered the squatter's cabin, and immediately opened a 
 conversation with him respecting the situation of the swamj) 
 and its natural productions. He told me he thought it the 
 very place I ought to visit, spoke of the game which it contained, 
 and pointed to some bear and deer skins, adding, that the indi- 
 viduals to which they had belonged formed but a small portion 
 of the number of those animals which he had shot within it. 
 My heart swelled with delight; and on asking if he would 
 accompany me through the great swamp, and allow me to 
 become an inmate of his humble but hospitable mansion, I 
 was gratified to find that \w cordially assented to ail my pro- 
 Ijosals, so I immediately unstrapiied my drawing materials, laid 
 
.134 
 
 MFK OF AununoN. 
 
 t 
 
 
 Oi^ 
 
 IS. 
 
 Ill 
 
 1 
 
 \\h:: 
 
 t 
 
 up my Riin, and nat down to partiike of the homely but whole- 
 some fare intended for the supper of the squatter, his wife, iind 
 his two sons. The quietness of the evening seemed in |x»rfect 
 accordance with the gentle demeanour of the family. The wife 
 and children, I more than once thought, seemed to look upon 
 me as a strange sort of person, going about, as I told them I 
 was, in search of birds and plants ; and vvere I here to relate tlio 
 many questions which they put to me, in return for those which I 
 addressed to them, the catalogue would occupy several pages. 
 The husband, a native of Connecticut, had heard of the existenfie 
 of such men as myself, bcth in our own country and abroad, 
 and seemed greatly pleased to have me under his roof. Supper 
 over, I asked my kind host what had induced him to remove to 
 this wild and solitary spot. 'The people are growing too 
 numerous now to thrive in New England,' was his answer. I 
 thought of the state of some parts of Europe, and calculating 
 the denseness of their population, compared with that of New 
 England, exclaimed to myself, how much more difficult must it 
 be for men to thrive in those populous countries ! The conver- 
 sation then changed, and the squatter, his sons and myself 
 spoke of hunting and fishing, until at length tired, we laid our- 
 selves down on pallets of bear-skins, and reposed in peace on 
 the floor of the only apartment of which the hut eonaisted. Day 
 dawned, and the squatter's call to his hogs, wliicli, being almost 
 in a wild state, were suffered to seek the greater portion of their 
 food in the woods, awakened me. Being ready dressed, I was 
 not long in joining him. The hogs and their young came 
 grunting at tlie well-known call of their owner, who threw them 
 a few ears ot corn, and counted them, but told me that for some 
 weeks their number tad been greatly diminished by the ravages 
 committed upon them by a large panther, by which name the 
 cougar is designated in America, and that the ravenous animal 
 did not content himself with the flesh of his pigs, but now and 
 then carried oflf one of his calves, notwithstanding the many 
 attempts he had made to shoot it. The ' painter,' as he some- 
 times called it, had on several occasions robbed him of a dead 
 deer ; and to these exploits, the squatter added several remark- 
 able feats of audacity which it had performed, to give me an 
 idea of the formidable character of the beast. Delighted by his 
 
HUNTING A COUGAR. 
 
 885 
 
 e homoly but whole- 
 
 [uatter, his wife, and 
 
 ig seemed in ]ierfect 
 
 le family. The wife 
 
 oemod to look upon 
 
 ut, as I told them I 
 
 3 1 here to relate the 
 
 urn for those which I 
 
 ccupy several pages. 
 
 leard of the existemie 
 
 country and abroad, 
 
 ler liis roof. Supper 
 
 ed him to remove to 
 
 le are growing too 
 
 was his answer. I 
 
 rope, and calculating 
 
 id with that of New 
 
 more difficult must it 
 
 iitries ! The conver- 
 
 lis sons and myself 
 
 th tired, we laid our- 
 
 •eposed in peace on 
 
 Imt consisted. Day 
 
 which, being almost 
 
 jater portion of their 
 
 ready dressed, I was 
 
 their young came 
 
 ler, who threw them 
 
 )ld me that for some 
 
 ished by the ravages 
 
 by which name the 
 
 the ravenous animal 
 
 s pigs, but now and 
 
 istanding the many 
 
 ainter,' as he some- 
 
 )bed him of a dead 
 
 Ided several reraark- 
 
 raed, to give me an 
 
 t. Delighted by his 
 
 description, I offered to assist hitn in destroying the enemy ; at 
 which he was highly pleas*^!, but assiinul me that unloss some 
 of his neighbours shouKl join us with their dogs and his own, 
 the attempt would prove fnntloss. Soon after, mounting a 
 horse, he went off to his neighbours, several t)f whom lived at a 
 (hstanco of some miles, and appointed a day of meeting. The 
 liunters accordingly made their appearance one fine morning 
 lit tho door of the cabin, just as the sun was emerging from 
 hcncath the horizon. 1'hey were five in numlxT, and fnlly 
 equipped for tho chase, being mounted on horses, which in some 
 pints of Europe might apfiear sorry nags, but which in strength, 
 speed, and bottom, are better fitted for pursuing a cougar or a 
 hear through wooiJs and morasses than any in their country. 
 A pack of large ugly curs was already engaged in making 
 acciuaintance with those of the squatter. He and myself mounted 
 liis two best horses, whilst his sons were bestriding others of 
 inferior quality. Few words were uttered by the party until 
 we had reached the edge of tho swamp, where it was agreed 
 that all should disperse, and seek for the fresh track of the 
 'painter,' it being previously settled that the discoverer should 
 hlow his horn, and remain on the spot until the rest should 
 join him. In less than an hour the sound of the horn was 
 clearly heard, and sticking close to the squatter, off we wont 
 through the thick woods, guided only by tho now-and-then 
 repeated call of the distant huntsman. We soon reached the 
 spot, and in a short time the rest of the party came up. The 
 hest dog was sent forward to track the cougar, and in a few 
 moments the whole pack was observed diligently trailing and 
 hearing in their course for the interior of the swamp. The 
 rifles were immediately put in trim, and the party followed the 
 dogs at separate distances, bnt in sight of each other, determined 
 to shoot at no other game than the panther. 
 
 " The dogs soon began to mouth, and suddenly quickened 
 their pace. My companions concluded that the beast was on 
 the ground, and putting our horses to a gentle gallop, we 
 followed the curs, guided by their voices. The noise of the 
 dogs increased, Avhen all of a sudden their mode of barking 
 hecame altered, and the squatter urging me to push on, told me 
 that the beast was treed, by which he meant, that it had got 
 
I' 
 
 i: 
 
 »r 
 
 !iZ ■ t) 
 
 '?i ,;i 
 
 33G 
 
 LIFE OP AUDUBON. 
 
 upon some low branch of a large tree to rest for a few moments, 
 and that should we not b-ioeeed in shooting him when thus 
 situated, we might expect a long clmse of it. As we approached 
 the sput, we all by degrees united into a body, but on seeing the 
 dogs at the foot of a large tree, separated again, and galloped 
 off" to surround it. Each hunter now moved with caution, hold- 
 ing his gun ready, and allowing the bridle to dangle on the 
 neck of his horse, as it advauced slowly towards the dogs. A 
 shot from one of the party was heard, on which the cougar was 
 seen to leap to the ground, and bound off with such velocity as 
 to show that he was very unwilling to stand our fire longer. 
 The dogs set off in pursuit with great eagerness, and a deafening 
 cry. The hunter who had fired came up and said that his ball 
 had hit the monster, and had probably broken one of his fore- 
 legs, near the shoulder, the only place at which he could iiiin. 
 A slight trail of blood was discovered on the ground, but the 
 curs proceeded at such a rate that we merely noticed this, mid 
 put spurs to out horses, which galloped on towards the centre of 
 the swamp. One bayou was crossed, tiien another still larger 
 and more muddy, but the dogs were brushing forward, and as 
 the horses began to pant at a furious rate, we judged it expedioiit 
 to leave them, and advance on foot. These determined hunters 
 knew that the cougar, being wounded, would shortly ascend 
 another tree, where in all probability he would remain for a 
 considerable time, and that it would be easy to follow the track 
 of the dogs. We dismounted, took off the saddles and bridles, 
 set the bells attached to the horses' necks at liberty to jingle, 
 hoppled the animals, and left them to shift for themselves. 
 Now kind reader, follow the group marching through the 
 swamp, crossing muddy pools, and making the best of their way 
 over fallen trees, and amongst the tangled rushes that now and 
 then covered acres of ground. If you are a hunter yourself all 
 this will appear nothing to you ; but if crowded assemblies of 
 * beauty and fashion,' or the quiet enjoyment of your * pleasure 
 grounds' delight you, I must mend my pen before I alteni])t to 
 give you an idea of the pleasure felt on such an expedition. 
 After marching for a couple of hours, we again heard the dogs : 
 each of us pressed forward, elated at the thought of terminating 
 the career of the cougar. Some of tlie dogs were heard whining, 
 
CAMPING OUT. 
 
 337 
 
 although the greater number barked vehemently. We felt 
 assured that the cougar was treed, and that he would rest for 
 gome time to recover from his fatigue. As we came up to the 
 dogs, we discovered the ferocious animal lying across a large 
 branch, close to the trunk of a cotton-wood tree. His broad 
 breast lay towards us ; his eyes were at one time bent on us and 
 again on the dogs beneath and around hiin ; one of his fore legs 
 hung loosely by his side, and he lay crouched, with his ears 
 lowered close to his head, as if he tlionght he might remain un- . 
 discovered. Three balls were fiied at him at a given signal, on 
 which he sprang a few feet from the branch, and tumbled head- 
 long to the ground, attacked on all sides by the enraged curs. 
 The infuriated cougar fought with dosporato valour ; but the 
 squatter advancing in front of the party, and, almost in the 
 midst of the dogs, shot him imnKHliately bcliind and beneath 
 the left shoulder. The congar writhed for a moment in agony, 
 aud in anotlier lay dead. The sun was now sinking in tlie west. 
 Two of the hunters separated from the rest to procm-e venison, 
 whilst the squatter's sons wt re ordered to make the best of their 
 way home, to be ready to feed the hogs in the morning. The 
 rest of the party agreed to cam[) on the spot. The cougar was 
 despoiled of the skin, and the carcass leit to the hungry dogs. 
 Whilst engaged in preparing our camp, we heard the report of 
 a guu, and soon after one of our hunters returned with a small 
 deer, A fire was lighted, and each hunter displayed his ' pone' 
 of bread, along with a. flask of whisky. The deer was skinned 
 in a trice, and slices placed on sticks before the lire. These 
 materials afibrded us an excellent meal ; and as the night grew 
 darker, stories and songs Avent round, until my companions, 
 fatigued, laid themselves down, close under the smoke of the lire, 
 and soon fell asleep. I walked for some minutes round the 
 camp to contemplate the beauties of that nature from which I 
 have certaiidy derive I my greatest pleasure. I thought of the 
 occurrences of the day ; and glancing my eye around, remarked 
 the singular effects produced by the phosphorescent qualities of 
 the large decayed trunks, which lay in all directions around me. 
 How eosy, I thought, woidd it bo for the confused and agitated 
 mind of a person bewildered in a swamp like this to imagine in 
 each of these luminous masses some wondrous and fearful being, 
 
 z 
 
> i 
 
 i 
 
 838 
 
 l.IFE OF AUDU150N. 
 
 ). 
 
 e: 
 
 tlio vory si<jfl»t nf wlii(,'li might innko tlio liair stntid croot on liis 
 lioiul ! Tho tliouglit ol' biung mysolf [)liicf(l iu .uch a i>rt'(lica- 
 meiit burst \\\H)n my miml ; luul I Imstoncd to join my com- 
 panioni^, besides whom I laid mo down and Hh'pt, assured that no 
 onomy wonUl ai)proaf!h ns witliont first ronsing tho dogs, which 
 wore growling in lioreo dispulo over tho remains of tho cougar. 
 At daybreak wo loft our camp, tho squatter bearing on his 
 shoulders tho skin of tho lat(* destroyer of his stock, and retraced 
 our steps until we ibunil our liorsos, which had not strayed fur 
 from tho place where wo left them. Those wo soon saddh'd; 
 atid jogging along in a direct course, guided by tho sun, con- 
 gratulating each other on tlio destrucition of so formidable a 
 neighbour as tlio panther had been, wo soon arrived at my host's 
 cabin. The live neighbours partook of such refrcshmciiits as tho 
 iiouso coidd aiVord, and, dispersing, returned to tiieir homes, 
 leavmg me to follow my favourite pursuits. 
 
ir stiind croot on liis 
 'd in .ucli a in-odicu- 
 icd to join my com- 
 ilt'pt, usHured tliat no 
 sin<^ tho dogs, wliidi 
 mains of tlio coiigiir, 
 attor boarinj;; on his 
 is stock, and rotmccil 
 L had not strayed fur 
 80 wo soon saddled; 
 ilod by the sun, con- 
 11 of so formidable a 
 n arrived at my host's 
 ■h rcfreshmonts as tlio 
 rned to their lioiues, 
 
 CIIAPTKIl LV. 
 
 Oai.viwtox Bay — Notkh in Tkxah — Wuktciiki) r<)i'iii,AT[ON — Kir.MKO of 
 A SwoRD-KiwH — IUjkkai.o Havoii — l'iti;sii)KNT Houston and iiib 
 IIorsK — 'I'kxan ('ai'itoi, and lluusr.s ok Conoukss — Tkxan Mods — 
 
 KkACIIIW NkW (1ltI,i:ANS— ClIAIU.KS'l'ON. 
 
 "April 24. AuuiVKi) in (jialveston ]iay this afternoon, havinj^ 
 liiid a fine run from Achafalnuni IJay. Wo were soon boarded 
 liy ol'licors from the 'IVxan vessels in the harbour, who inforuKid 
 us that two days before the U. S. sloop of war Njitchez fell 
 in with the IMexican sijuadron off the harbour of Vcshisco, cap- 
 tured the brig IJnui, and ran two otlwu* vessels asliorc; another 
 report says they sunk another ship, and went in the pursuit of 
 tiie squadron. These vessels were taken as pirates — the fleet 
 liiiving sailed from Vera Cruz without being provisioned, had 
 litMMi plundering Auu!ri(vin vessels on lln; coast. Tluu'e is also 
 a rumour that tlie Texan schooncu" Independence has been 
 ca])tured by a Mexican cruiser. The American schooner ITash 
 was driven ashore a few days .since by a Mexican cruiser, and 
 now lies on the beach at the lower end of the island. 
 
 "April 25. A heavy gale blew all night, and this morning the 
 thermometer in the cabin is (53°, and thousands of birds, ai-rested 
 by the storm in their migration northward, are seen hovering 
 around our vessels and hiding in the grass, and some struggling 
 in the \\ater, completely exhausted. 
 
 " We had a visit this morning from the secretary of the 1'exan 
 navy, Mr. C. Khodes Fisher, who breakfasted with us. He ap- 
 peared tx) be a well-informed man, and talked a great deal about 
 
 z 2 
 
 .i;i 
 
I 
 
 c:: 
 
 nto 
 
 TilFE OF ATTDTJBON. 
 
 tho infant ropublio, nnd then left us for tlin scat of governmont 
 nt Houston, seventy miles distant, on the steamer Yellow Stono, 
 nccomjianied by Oai>tains Casto and Taylor, taking the Crusader 
 in tow. 
 
 " April 26. Went ashore at Galveston. The only objects we 
 saw of interest were the Mexican prisoners ; they are used as 
 slaves ; made to earry wood and water, and out grass for the 
 horses, and sueli work ; it is said that some ar(* made to draw 
 the plough. They all appear to be of delicate frame and con- 
 stitutictn, but are not dejected in appearance. 
 
 " April 2.7. We Avere oil' at an eMrly hour for the island, t'vo 
 miles distant ; we waded nearly all the distance, so very shallow 
 and filled with sandbanks is this famous bay. The men made 
 a large fire to keep off tho mosquitoes, which were annoying 
 enough for oven mo. Besides many interesting birds, we found 
 a new species of rattlesnake, with a double row of fangs on each 
 side of its jaws. 
 
 " April 28. We went on a deer-hunt on Calveston Island, 
 where these animals are abundant ; mo saw about twenty-five, 
 and killed four. ' 
 
 " Ajyril '_'9. JoJin took a vie\\- of the rough village of Galveston, 
 with the Lucida. We found much company on boaril on our 
 return to tho vessel, among whom was a contractor for beef for 
 tliearmy; ho was from Connecticut, and has a family n'siding 
 near the famous battle-ground of San Jacinto. He promised 
 me some skulls of iMexicans, and some plants, for ho is bumjied 
 witli botanical bumps somewhere. 
 
 "Galveston Bay, May 1, 1837. I was much fatigued this 
 morning, and the muscles of my legs were swelled until they 
 were purple, so that I could not go on shore. The musk-rat is 
 the only small quadruped four.d her<>, and the common house- 
 rat has not yet readied this part of the world. 
 
 "May 2. Went ashore on Ga^vecton Island, and landed on a 
 point where the Texan garris-, n is quartered. We passed 
 through the troops, and ohserved the miserable condition of the 
 whole concern : Inits made of grass, and a few sticks or sods cut 
 into square pieces composed the buildings of the poor Mcxiciin 
 prisoners, whicdi, half clad and half naked strolled about in a 
 state of apparent inactivity. We passed vwo sentinels under 
 
scat of governmont 
 3iimcr Yellow Stoiio, 
 taking tlio Crusader 
 
 The only objects we 
 ) ; they are used as 
 id cut grass for the 
 le ar(^ made to di-aw 
 cato frame and con- 
 
 ir for the island, t'vo 
 imce, so very shallow 
 ay. The men made 
 lich were annoying 
 ;ting birds, we found 
 row of fangs on each 
 
 n Galveston Island, 
 iw about twenty-live. 
 
 village of Galveston, 
 ny on board on our 
 ntractor for beef for 
 as a family residing 
 into. Ho promised 
 its, for ho is bumped 
 
 much fatigued this 
 
 swelled until they 
 
 '. The musk-rat is 
 
 the common house- 
 Id. 
 
 nd, and landed on a 
 rtt'ved. AVe [lassed 
 d)le condition of the 
 ew sticks or sods cut 
 if the poor Mexican 
 
 strolled about in a 
 vwo sentinels under 
 
 GALVESTON ISf-AND. 
 
 841 
 
 arms, very unlike soldiers in appearance. The whole population 
 seemed both indolent and reckless. We saw a few fowls, one 
 pig, and a dog, which appeared to bo all the domestic animals 
 iji tho encamj)ment. We saw only three women, who were 
 Jlexican prisoners. Tho soldiers' huts are placed in irregular 
 rows, and at unequa' distances ; a dirty blanket or coarse rag 
 hangs over tho entrance in place of a door. No windows were 
 seen, except in one or two cabins occupied by Texan oSBcers 
 and soldiers. A dozen or more long guns lay about on the sand, 
 and one of about the same calibre was moimted. There was a 
 look-out house fronting and commanding iho entrance to the 
 harbour, and at tlio point where the three channels meet there 
 were four guns mounted of smaller calibre. We readily observed 
 that not miicli ni'-ety prevailed among the Mexican prisoners, 
 and we learned that their habits were as filthy as their persons. 
 We also found a few beautiful flowers, and among them one 
 which Harris and I at once nicknamed the Texan daisy ; and 
 wo gathered a number of their seeds, hoping to make thera 
 nourish elsewhere. On the top of one of the huts we saw a 
 biully-stuffed skin of a grey or black wolf, of the same species 
 as I have seen on the JMissouri. When we were returning to 
 the vessel we discovered a large sword-fish grounded on one of 
 the sandbanks, and after a sliarp contest killed her with our 
 guns. In what wo took to be a continuation of the stomach of 
 this fish, we found four young ones, and in another part re- 
 senibliug the stomach six more were packed, all of them alive 
 and wriggling about as soon as they were thrown on the sand. 
 It would be a fact worth solving to know if these fish carry their 
 youuLi like viviparous reptiles. The young were about thirty 
 inches in length, and minute sharp teeth were already formed. 
 
 " May S. To-day we hoisted anchor, bound to Houston : after 
 grounding a few times, we reached Ived Fish Bar, distant 
 twelve miles, whore we found several American scliooners and 
 one brig. It blew hard all night, and we were uncomfortable. 
 
 " May 9. We left Hed Fish Bar with the Crusader and the 
 gig, and with a fair wind proceeded rapidly, and soon came up 
 to the new-born town of New Washington, owned mostly by 
 Mr. Swartout the collector of customs of New York. We passed 
 several plantations ; and the general appearance of the country 
 
f! 
 
 im 
 
 
 ^ i 
 
 ] I' 
 
 . I 
 
 
 III 
 
 
 842 
 
 Lll'E OF AUDUBON. 
 
 was more pleasing than otlierwise. About noon we entered 
 Buffiilo Ba)'OU, at the mouth of the St. Jacinto Eiver, mid 
 opposite the famous battle-ground of the same name. Pro- 
 ceeding smoothly up the bayou, we saw abundance of gaino, 
 and at the distance of some twenty miles stopped at the house 
 of a Mr. Batterson. This bayou is usually sluggish, deep, and 
 bordered on both sides with a strip of woods not exceeding a 
 mile in depth. The banks have a gentle slope, and the soil 011 
 its shores is good ; but the prairies in the rear are cold and 
 generally M'et, bored by innumerable clay fish, destitute of 
 clover, but covered with coarse glass and weeds, with a siglit 
 here and there of a grove of timber, rising from a bed of cold, 
 wet clay. 
 
 It rained and lightened, and we passed the night at Mv, 
 Batterson's. The tentli it rained again, but we pushed on to 
 Houston, and arrived tliere wet and hungry. The rain liad 
 swollen the water in the bayon, and increased the current so 
 that we were eight hours rowing twelve miles. 
 
 " 3faij 15. We landed at Houston, the capital of Texas, 
 dren(!hed to the shin, and were kindly received on board tlie 
 steamer Tallow Stone, Captain West, who gave us his state- 
 room to change our clothes, and lurnished us refreshments and 
 dinner. 
 
 " The Buffalo Bayou had risen about six feet, and tlie neigh- 
 bouring prairies were partly covered with water : there was a 
 wild and desolate look cast on the surrounding scenery. We 
 had already passed two little girls encamped on the bank of the 
 bayon, under the cover of a few class-boards, cooking a scanty 
 meal; shanties, cargoes of hogsheads, barrels, &c., were spread 
 about the landing ; and Indians drunk and hallooing were 
 stumbling about in the mud in every direction. These poor 
 beings had come here to enter into a treaty proposed by the 
 whites ; many of them were young and well looking, and with 
 far less decorations than I have seen before on such occasions. 
 The chief of the tribe is an old and corpulent man. 
 
 " We walked towards the President's house, accompanied by 
 the secretary of the navy, and as soon as we rose above the 
 bank, we saw before us a level of far-extending prairie, destitute 
 of timber, and rather poor soil. Houses half finished, and most 
 
noon we entered 
 Jacinto lliver, and 
 same name. Pro- 
 mndance of p;am(', 
 pped at the house 
 shiggiah, deep, and 
 ds not exceedin<^ a 
 )pe, and the soil on 
 rear are cold and 
 • fish, destitute of 
 'eeds, with a siglit 
 from a bed of cold, 
 
 . the night at Mv, 
 ; we pushed on to 
 ;ry. Tlie rain liad 
 sed the current so 
 
 'S. 
 
 I capital of Texas, 
 
 ived on board tlie 
 
 jrave us his state- 
 
 8 refreshments anil 
 
 'e(}t, and the neigh- 
 
 vater : there was a 
 
 ding scenery. AVe 
 
 on the bank of the 
 
 s, cooking a scanty 
 
 s, &e., were spread 
 
 uid hallooing were 
 
 ction. These poor 
 
 aty proposed by the 
 
 1 looking, and with 
 
 on such occasions. 
 
 man. 
 
 se, accompanied by 
 
 we rose above the 
 
 ng prairie, destitute 
 
 f finished, and most 
 
 PRESIDENT HOUSTON. 
 
 343 
 
 of tliem without roofs, tents, and a liberty pole, with the capitol, 
 were all exhibited to our view at once. Wo a})proached the 
 President's mansion, however, wading through water above our 
 ankles. This abode f President Houston is a small log-house, 
 consisting of two rooms, and a passage through, after the 
 sontliern fashion. The moment we stepped over the threshold, 
 on the right hand of the passage we found ourselves ushered 
 into what in other countries would be called the ante-chamber ; 
 the ground-floor liowever was muddy and filthy, a large fire wag 
 burning, a small table covered with paper and writing materials, 
 was in the centre, camp-beds, trunks, and difterent materials, 
 were strewed around the room. We were at once presented to 
 several members of the cabinet, some of whom bore the stamp 
 of men of intellectual ability, simple, though bold, in their 
 general appearance. Here we were presented to Mr. Crawford, 
 an agent of the British Minister to Mexico, who has come here 
 on some secret mission. 
 
 "Tlie President was engaged in the opposite room on national 
 business, and we could not sue him for some time. Meanwhile 
 n we amused ourselves by walking to the capitol, wliicli was yet 
 without a roof, and the floors, benches, and tables of both houses 
 of Cong;'ess were as well saturated with water as our clothes 
 had been in the morning. Being invited by one of the great 
 men of the place to enter a booth to take a drink of grog with 
 him, we did so ; but 1 was rather surprised that he oflered his 
 name, instead of the cash to the l>ar-keeper. 
 
 " We first caught sight of President Houston as he walked 
 from one of the grog-shops, where ho had been to prevent the 
 sale of ardent spirits. He was on his way to his house, and 
 wore a large gray coarse hat ; and the bulk of his figure reminded 
 me of the appearance of General Hopkins of Virginia, for like 
 him he is upwards of six feet high, and strong in proportion. 
 But I observed a scowl in the expression of his eyes, that was 
 forbidding and disagreeable. We reached his abode before liirn, 
 but he soon came, and we were presented to his excellency, 
 lie was dressed in a fancy velvet coat, and trowsers trimmed 
 \vitli broad gold lace ; abound his neck was tied a cravat some- 
 wliat in the style of seventy-six. He received us kindly, was 
 desirous of retaining us for a while, and ofiered us every facility 
 
344 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 within his power. He nt once removed ii8 from the ante-room 
 to his private chamber, which by the way was not much cleaner 
 than tlio former. Wo wore severally introdncod by him to the 
 dilTorent members of his cabinet and staff, and at once asked to 
 drink grog with him, which we did, wishing success to his new 
 repubhV>. Our talk was short ; but the impression which was 
 'uad !i my mind at the time by himself, his ofiicers, and Ills 
 ;■:.'>. f abode, can never be forgotten. 
 
 W oturned to our boat through a melee of Indians and 
 bii kguav ; of all sorts. In giving a last glance back we once 
 more noticed i. number of horses rambling about the grounds, 
 or tied beneath the few trees that have been spai'cd by the axe. 
 We also saw a liberty pole, erected on the anniversary of the 
 battle of San Jacinto, on the twenty-lirst of last April, and were 
 informed that a brave tar, who rigged the Texan flag on tliat 
 occasion, had boon personally rewarded by President Houston, 
 with a town lot, a doubloon, and the privilege of keeping a 
 ferry across the Buffalo Bayou at the town, where the bayou 
 forks diverge in opposite directions. 
 
 " Maij 1(3. Departed for New Washington, where we received 
 kind attentions from Col. James IMorgan ; crossed San Jacinto 
 Bay to the Campbell, and the next day dropped down to 
 Galveston. 
 
 "May 18. Left the bar of Galveston, having on board Mr. 
 Crawford, British Consul at Pampico, and a Mr. Allen of New 
 Orleans. 
 
 " May 24. Arrived at the S. W. Pass, and proceeded to the 
 Belize, and thence to New Orleans, where we arrived in three 
 days. 
 
 " New Orleans, May 28. Breakfasted with Ex-Governor 
 Boman and his delightful family, with Mr. Edward Harris." 
 
 Audubon suifered greatly during this expedition to Texas, 
 and lost twelve pounds in weight. He found New Orleans 
 nearly deserted, and dull, and the weather oppressively hot and 
 disagreeable. 
 
 " May 31. We bid adieu to our New Orleans friends, leaving 
 in their care for shipment our collections, clothing, and dog 
 Dash for Mr. W. Bakewell. Harris went up the river, and we 
 crossed to Mobile in the steamer Swan, paying fare twelve 
 
I from the ante-room 
 ms not much cleaner 
 lucod by him to the 
 and at once asked to 
 f success to his new 
 impression which was 
 f, his oHicors, and his 
 
 molco of Indians and 
 gUinc(i back wo once 
 i<^ about the grounds, 
 in spared by the axo. 
 10 anniversary of the 
 last April, and were 
 > Texan flag on tliat 
 { President Houston, 
 ivilege of keeping a 
 rvn, where the bayou 
 
 m, where we received 
 
 crossed San Jacinto 
 
 y dropped down to 
 
 laving on board Mr. 
 a Mr. Allen of New 
 
 md proceeded to the 
 we arrived in tliree 
 
 with Ex-Governor 
 Li ward Harris." 
 expedition to Texas, 
 found New Orleans 
 oppressively hot and 
 
 cans friends, leaving 
 
 s, clothing, and dog 
 
 up the river, and we 
 
 paying fare twelve 
 
 AUUIVAL AT CIIAIU-KSTON. 
 
 845 
 
 dollars each, and making the trip of one hundred and fifty mik's 
 in twenly-one hours. If New Orleans a])peared prostrated, 
 Mobilo, seemed quite dead. We left in the afternoon for 
 Stockton, Alabanni, forty-live miles distant, where we were 
 placed in a cart, and tumbled and tossed for ono hundrtul and 
 sixty-live miles to IMontgoraery ; fare twenty-three dollars each, 
 miserable road and rascally fare. At Montgomery we took tho 
 mail coach, and were much relieved ; fare to Columbus twenty- 
 six dollars each. Our travelling companions were without 
 interest, the weather was suffocating, Jind the roads dirty and 
 very rough ; we made but three miles an hour for the whole 
 jonrney, walking xip tho hills, and galloping down them to 
 Angnsta, and paying a fare of thirteen dollars and fifty ceri 
 eacli, and thence by rail to Charh^ston for six dollars . ' I 
 seventy-five cents each, distance one hundred and thirty-.dx 
 miles, and making eight and a half days from New Orleans " 
 
 il 
 
I" 
 r 
 
 
 it 
 
 ■J> 
 
 I'..; 
 
 tt ,.*; 
 
 840 
 
 LIFE OP AUDUBON. 
 
 CHAPTER LVI. 
 
 Tx England aoaix — Liteuauy Labours — Back to Amkuica. 
 
 Afteu remaining a short timo iu Charleston, Audubon re- 
 turned to New York, and in the hitter part of the summer sailed 
 for Liverpool. After landing there and greeting his friends, 
 he went to London, taking the new drawings he had made 
 to jMr. Harrill, and then, after spending a few days with hh 
 family, departed for Edinburgh, There he went diligently to 
 work iu preparing the fourth volume of his " Ornithological 
 Biography " for the press. This work held him imtil the fall 
 of 1838, and was published in November of that year. His 
 family now joined him in Edinburgh, and the winter was devoted 
 to finishing the drawings for the completion of his great volume 
 on the " Birds of America," and also to preparing his fifth volume 
 of the " Ornithological Biography," which was published iu 
 Edinburgh in ]\ray 1839. 
 
 In the fall of 1830 he returned to America with his family, 
 and settled in New York city, there to spend the remainder of 
 his days. But ho did not intend to bo idle, but immodiiitely 
 began preparing his last great ornithological work, which is a 
 copy of his original English publication, with the figures reduced 
 and lithographed, in seven octavo volumes. The first volume 
 was published within a little more than a year after his return, 
 two more volumes appeared in 1842, another iu 1843, while 
 he was absent on his exi)edition to the Yellow-stone River, aiul 
 the last one after his return. 
 
 Jj'nl'\ 
 
Iac'k to Ameuica. 
 
 loston, Audubon re- 
 of the summer sailed 
 pjreeting his friends, 
 wings he had miide 
 ft few days with his 
 he went diligently to 
 
 his "Ornithological 
 1 him until the lull 
 r of that year. His 
 le winter was devoted 
 1 of his great volume 
 aring his fifth volume 
 
 1 was published in 
 
 erica with his faniily, 
 nd the remainder of 
 ille, but immediately 
 ical work, which is a 
 h the figures reduced 
 The first volume 
 >'car after his return, 
 )ther in 1843, while 
 low-stone Eiver, and 
 
 PREPARES FOR HIS LAST JOUllNKY. 
 
 347 
 
 3. 
 
 IJcsides all this labour, ho devoted occasional spare hoiws to 
 improving and increasing the drawings of the quadruped ? of 
 North America, which ho had begun sonio years before in cou- 
 11 ction with the Kev. John Backmau of South Carolina. 
 
 The early pages of the journal show that Audubon had been 
 anxious to visit the great interior valley of tho IMississippi and 
 tlu! Kocky jMountains ev^r since ho began to devote his time 
 exclusively to ornithological research ; and twenty years before 
 ]m return to America, he had traced out tho course ho wished 
 to go. During all those years of unremitting toil, tho desire 
 and hope of seeing the Great Plains and tho Eocky IMountains 
 never deserted liim. But after he had resolved to complete and 
 publish Ids work on the Quadrupeds of America, he felt that it 
 would be impossibl<> for him to do it satisfactorily until he liad 
 seen with his own eyes the buffaloes of the plains, and other 
 animals of those regions whose habits had never been described. 
 
 Much of his earthly work was done ; the infirmities of age were 
 stealing upon him ; and tho Journal often alludes to the fact that 
 his physical powers were not equal to his mental longings. Ho 
 sccuis to hav(^, determined therefore to make an efllbrt to ac- 
 eouqjlish the long-cherished desire of his heart, to look on tho 
 mngiiiiicent scenery of the prairies and mountains of the West, 
 and to gather the materials for his Quadrupeds, which he knew 
 would probably be his last work on earth. So as soon as he had 
 settled his family at JMinnie's Land, where he invested all tho 
 money he had made by his publications up to that date, he 
 mcpared at once for his last great journey, the grandest of all 
 his journeys, to the Western Wilderness. 
 
v^\ 
 
 ■ 
 
 m 
 
 Si 
 
 11^ 
 
 1^ 
 
 348 
 
 MFK OF AIJDUHON. 
 
 OIIAPTER LVir. 
 
 ExcunaioN to the Cheat Westkun I'uaibiks— Jedkdiah Iiiiaii — Ur tiik 
 Missouiu — KiVEit Pu'TunEs — Indians — Phaiuies — l$iu Sioux Ihvi:ii- 
 TiiK Inundations — Indians E"Euy\viiEnr. — Deei-eu into the Wii,. 
 DEUNEss — The Mandans — Ixdian Thievks — The '• Medicine Loudu"- 
 IIecabee Indians — Indian Councii, on Hoaud — Foiit Union — AiiniVAi 
 at Yeij.ow Stone Uiveu — Ik'i'KAi.o Hunt — Smali.-Pox among tiir 
 Indians — Hetuun to New Yobk. 
 
 " March 11, 1843. Left Now York this morning with my son 
 Victor, on au expedition to the Yellow-stone River, and regioM 
 adjacent and unknown, undertaken for tlie sake of our work 
 on the * Quadrupeds of North America,' and arrived in riiila- 
 delphia late in the evening. 
 
 " As we landed, a tall, robust-looking man, tapped me on tlie 
 shoulder, whom I discovered in the dim darkness to bo my 
 friend, Jedediah Irish, of the Great Pino Swamp. I also met 
 my friend, Edward Harris, who, besides John G. Bell, Isaac 
 Sprague, and Lewis Squires, were to accompany me on this 
 long campaign. The next morning we left for Baltimore, and 
 Victor returned home to Minnie's Land." 
 
 There are four folio volumes of MS. containmg a detailed 
 account of that whole journey, which lasted about eight months. 
 But as most of the journals wore inwoven into tin' three 
 volumes on the " Quadrupeds of North America," whicli weft 
 published in the years 1S4G, 1851, and 1854, we give but au 
 outline of the journey, and the gleanings of such incidents as 
 were not used in those volumes. 
 
-Jkdkdiaii IiiiHii — Ur tiik 
 
 lUIKS — Wui SUIUX UlVKIl- 
 
 -Dkiu'Kii into Till'; Wii.. 
 -'I'liK " Mkdioinu Loimie"- 
 U) — FoiiT Union — Auuival 
 ' — Small-Pox among tiir 
 
 morning with my son 
 )ne River, and regions 
 the sake of our work 
 and arrived in l*liila- 
 
 aan, tapped me ou the 
 n darkness to be my 
 D Swamp. I also met 
 John G. Bell, Isaac 
 ccompauy me ou this 
 eft for Baltimore, and 
 
 containing a detailed 
 hI about eight months, 
 ivoven into tln' three 
 America," which weft 
 1854, we give but an 
 s of such incidents as 
 
 KPFRCTs or A l-'FtESIIl-yr. 
 
 S40 
 
 Audubon and liis party croflsod the Alleghany MountuiuH to 
 Wiu'cliug, went from there to C'iiicinuati and St. LouIk by 
 stciuucrs, where they arrived on the 2Sth of j\rarch. From 
 thoni'c they ascended tlu! Missouri lviv(>r to JcfTersou city, the 
 ra|)ital of the State, about one hundred and seventy miles from 
 St. iiouis. There they saw nothing worthy of note except the 
 State House ami Penitentiary. 
 
 The town was a poor-looking place, ami the neighbouring 
 coiiiitry poor and broken ; but the public buildings ((onunanded 
 a Ihie view up and down the river. " Yi'stenhiy," says the 
 Journal, " we passed many long lines of eh^vated banks, onia- 
 mcnti'd by 8tui)endous rocks of limestone, having nuiuy curious 
 holes, into which wo saw vultures and eagles enter towards 
 evening. 
 
 " As wo ascended the river the strength of the current 
 increased, and in some places we stemmed it with dil'liculty ; 
 and near Willow Islands it ran so rai)idly, that we foimd our- 
 selves going down stream, and were compelled to nuiko fast to 
 the shore. 
 
 " March 30. As wo sail along the shores, I notice young 
 willows and cotton-trees half submerged by the freshet, waving 
 to and fro, as if trembling at the rage of the rushing water, and 
 in fear of being destroyed by it ; and it really seemed as if the 
 mighty current was going to overwhelm in its rage all that the 
 Creator had lavished ou its luxuriant shore. The banks are 
 falling in aiul taking thousaiuls of trees, and the current is 
 bearing them away from the places where they have stood and 
 grown for ages. It is an awful exemplification of the course of 
 Nature, where all is conflict between life and death. 
 
 " March 31. As we sail up the river, squatters and planters 
 aro seen abandoning tluur dwellings, which the water is over- 
 tlowing, and mak ng towards the highlands, that aro from one 
 to four mil(?s inlanu. We passed two houses filled with women 
 and children, entirelv surrounded by water ; the whole place 
 was under water, and all around was a picture of utter desola- 
 tion. The men had gone to seek assistance, and I was grieved 
 that our captain did not offer to render them any ; the banks 
 kept on falling in, and precipitating majestic trees into the 
 devouring current. 
 

 I! 
 
 \f 
 
 'I 
 
 
 350 
 
 LIKE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 " May 2. We are now three hundred and eighty miles from 
 St. Louis, and are landing freiglit and traders for Santa Fo. 
 
 " May o. Wo readied St, Ijeuvenworth this morning. The 
 garrison here is on a line elevation, commanding a good view 
 of the river above and below for a considerable distanoe. 
 Leaving here, we entered the real Indian country on the wost 
 side of the river ; for the State of Missouri, by the purchase of 
 the Piatt River country, continues for two hundred and fiftv 
 miles farther ; and hero only are any scttlemeuta of wliite 
 inhabitants. 
 
 " May 5. After gi-ounding on sand-bars, and contending 
 against head-winds and currents, we reached the J'hu'k Snake 
 Hills settlement, which is a d(,'ligl»tful site for a puinilous city 
 that will be here some fifty years hence. The hills are two 
 hundred feet above the level of the river, and slope down gontly 
 on the opposite side to the beautiful prairies, tiiat extend over 
 thousiinds of acres of the richest land imaginable. Here the 
 general aspect of the river greatly changes ; it becomes nuue 
 crooked, and tilled with naked sand-bars, from which tlic wind 
 whirls the sand in every direcrtion. We passed thr<)iij>h a 
 narrow and swift chute, which, in the time of high water, must 
 be extremely dillicult to ascend. 
 
 '"ilfayC. We fastened our boat to the edge of a bciuililiil 
 prairie, to land freight and passengers. Here eighty In liaiis 
 came to visit us, some on ibot and some on horseback, generally 
 riding double, on skins and Spanish saddles; some squiiws 
 rode, and rode well. We landed some Indians here, who came 
 as passengers with lis, and I noticed that when they joined their 
 relatives and friends, they neither shook hands nor exchanged 
 any congratulations. I saw no emotion, nothing to corroborale 
 Mr. Catlin's views of savage lite. 
 
 " When the boat started, all these Indians followed us along 
 the shore, running on foot, and galloping on horseback to keep 
 up with us. When mo approached the next landing, I saw 
 some of these poor creatures perched on the neiglibouring 
 banks, while others crowded down to our landing-place. They 
 belonged to the Iowa and Tox Indians : the two tribes luimber 
 about twelve thousand, and their country extends for seveuty 
 miles up the river. 
 
irl eighty miles from 
 crs for Santa F<\ 
 
 this inoniiiig. The 
 mauding a good view 
 onsiderable distance. 
 
 country on the west 
 i, by the purchase of 
 fo hundred and fifty 
 settlements of wliite 
 
 lars, and contending 
 led the JMack Snake 
 te for a populous city 
 ). The hills are two 
 iud slope down gently 
 ries, tiiat extend over 
 laginable. Here the 
 ^es ; it becomes niure 
 from which tlic wind 
 .^e passed thr()Uf>h a 
 i of high water, must 
 
 ! edge of a beautiliil 
 Here eighty In Hans 
 { horseback, generally 
 (Idles ; some scpmws 
 idians here, who came 
 vhen they joiiu-d tlioir 
 hands nor exchanged 
 otliing to corroborate 
 
 ians followed us along 
 on horseback to keep 
 next landing, I saw 
 
 on the neighbouring 
 anding-place. They 
 
 he two tribes number 
 
 r extends for seventy 
 
 FORT CUOGHAN. 
 
 351 
 
 " May 8. To-day wo passed tho boundary of Jlissouri, and 
 the country consists of prairies extending back to tho inland 
 hills. 
 
 " May 9. This evening wo arrived at tho famous settlement of 
 Bolle Vuo, wliore tho Indian agent, or custom-houso officer, 
 as he might better be called, resides. Here a large ])ack of 
 rascally-looking, dirty, and half-starved Indians awaited our 
 arrival ; and here wo paid for five cords of wood, with five tin 
 caps of sugar, and three cups of voffve, all worth twenty-five 
 cents at St. Louis. And we saw here the first ploughed ground 
 we had seen since leaving the settlements near St. Louis. 
 
 " May 10. Arrived at Fort Croghan, named after an old 
 friend of that name, with whom I hunted racoons on his father's 
 plantation in Kentucky, thirty-five years before. His father 
 and mine were well acquainted, and fought together with tiie 
 great General Washington and Lafayette, in the Hevolution 
 War against ' Merry England.' Tho parade-ground here had 
 been four feet under water in the late freshet. 
 
 " May 11. The officers of this post last July were nearly 
 (lestitnto of provision, and they sent off twenty dragoons and 
 twenty Indians on a bufifalo-hunt ; and within eighty miles of 
 tlic fort, they killed fifty-one buffaloes, one hundred and four 
 (leer, and ten elks. 
 
 " We were told that the Pattawotami Indians were formerly 
 a warlike people, but re(!ently their enemies, the Sioux, have 
 frequently killed them, when they met them on hunting 
 excursions, and that they liave become quite cowardly, whicli 
 is a great change in their character. 
 
 " We cast off our lines from the shore at twelve o'clock, and by 
 sunset reached the Council JJluffs, where the river-bed is utterly 
 changed, though that called the Old Missouri is now visible. 
 These Bluffs rise from a truly beautiful bank about forty feet 
 above the river, and slope down into as beautiful a prairie to 
 the hills in the rear, which render the scenery very fine and 
 very remarkable. 
 *^ J " May 12. We have arrived at the most crooked part of the 
 river yet seen, tho sliores on both sides are lower, the hills are 
 more distant, and the intervening plains are more or less 
 covered with water. We passed the lilackbird Hills, where 
 
: { 
 
 352 
 
 LIFE 0¥ AUDUBON. 
 
 ■«« 
 
 a fiimons Indian chief of this name was biiritd, and his liorse 
 buried alive with liiin at his loquest. 
 
 " 3Iaij 13. To-day we passed st)ine beautiful blufl's, composed 
 of a tine white sandstone, of a soft textur(\ but beautiful to the 
 eye, and covered with cedars. We saw also many fine prairies; 
 and the bottom lan<ls appeared to be of an extremely rich soil. 
 Indians hailed us alon<j; the shore, but no notice was taken of 
 them : they followed us to the next landing, and boarded lis ; 
 but our captain hates them, and they go away without a chew 
 of tobacco, and T pity the ])oor creatures witii all my heart. 
 
 "This evening we caine to the Burial-ground liluflf; so calleil 
 by the ever-memorable expedition of l^ouis and Clark, beciuiso 
 here they buried Sergeant Floyd, as they were on the way to 
 the Paciiic Ocean across the Kocky Mountain. The prairies 
 are now more frequent and more elevated; lud we have seen 
 more evergreens to-day than in the two preceding weeks. 
 
 " Wo have entered the mouth of the Big Sioux IJiver, wliich 
 is a clear stream, abounding with fish : on one of its bi anclujs is 
 found the famous red clay of which the Indians make their 
 calmuts. We saw on the banks of the river several LuHaii 
 canoe frames, formed of bent sticks made into a circle, the edgen 
 fastened together by a long pole or stick, with another one in 
 the l)ottom, holding the frame like the inner keel of a boat. 
 Outside of this frame the Indians stretv^h a buffalo-sliin with tlui 
 hair on, and it is saitl to maive a safe boat to convey two or tlucc 
 persons, even when the current is rapid. Here, as well as on the 
 shores of the IMississipjn and ^Missouri, the land along the river 
 banks is higher than further inland ; tangled bushwood and tall 
 reeds grov,' along the margins, while tlie prairies abound witli 
 mud and muddy water. Willows are plenty, and the general 
 aspect of the country is pleasing. 
 
 " May 10. Came to an Indian log-cabin, which had a feucc 
 enclosure around it. Fussed several d.ud bullalocs Heating down 
 the stream. A few hundred miles above here the river i>s con- 
 fined between high steep bluffs, many of them nearly per- 
 pendicular, and impossible for the buffalo to climb: when tliey 
 have leaped or fallen down these, they try to ascend them or 
 swim to the opposite shore, which is equally diilicult ; but unubli' 
 to ascend them, they fall back time and again until they ak 
 
rit;l, and liis horse 
 
 ul blnil's, composed 
 ut iKWitil'iil to tlie 
 many fine pmirios; 
 extremely rich soil. 
 otice was taken of 
 \g, and boarded us ; 
 'ay without a chew 
 ii all my heart, 
 md l^hiflf; so calleil 
 and Clai'k, because 
 were on the way to 
 taiir. The prairies 
 ; ind we have seen 
 eding weeks. 
 Sioux lUver, wliieli 
 ne of its branches is 
 Indians make their 
 ■ivcr several Luliau 
 
 a circle, the edges 
 with another one in 
 ner keel of a hoat. 
 uffalo-skin with t!u! 
 .!onvey two <>r three 
 re, as well as on the 
 xnd along the river 
 
 1 bushwood and ttill 
 rairies abound with 
 y, and the general 
 
 which liad a i'ciico 
 Haloes floating do^n 
 re the river is con- 
 them nearly })er- 
 climb : when they 
 y to ascend tlu'in or 
 dillicult ; but unabli' 
 gain until they ni'' 
 
 ABUNJ)AN(.!K OF I'.WKI'WLOKS. 
 
 3D3 
 
 exhausted ; and at last, g(^ttiiig into the current, are borne away 
 and drowned : hundreds thus perish every year, and their 
 swollen and j)utrid bodies have been seen floating as low down 
 as St. Louis. Tlie Indians along slioi-c? wat(di ibr these carcases, 
 and no matter how pntrid th(\y iir(>, if the 'hump' is fat, they 
 drag them ashore and cut it out for food." 
 
 Many pages of the Journal describes the daily incid<uits of 
 tlio next few weeks, in which the party wcsre slowly [)nshing 
 their way np the river, and making occasional (excursions from 
 the hoat in pursuit of the objects of their journey. The country 
 was inundated in many phn-es, and i'voin the to{)8 of the neigh- 
 bouring hills it is represented as about equally divided between 
 land antl water ; on the (Cistern side of the river the Hat prairies 
 had become gr<'at lakes. And th(>y noticed that the floating ice 
 had cut the trees on the bauUs of the river as high as the 
 shoidders of a man. Barges from above passed them, bringing 
 down the s[)oils of the hunters, and one from St. Pierre had ten 
 diousand buflalo-robes on board, 'riie men re[)orted that the 
 country above was tilled with bullahxis. and the shores of the 
 river were covered with the dead bodi(^s of old and young ones. 
 
 As they ascende 1 they found the river more sh illow in some 
 parts, and again opening into broad places like groat htgoons. 
 They i)assed Vermilion iliver, a small stream running out of 
 muddy banks tilled with willows. At a landing near there, a 
 man told them that a hunter had recently killed an Indian 
 chief near the foot of the Hockv iMonntains, iind that it would 
 he (hingerous for white men to visit that region. 
 
 They also found on the river's bank the plant called the 
 white apple, much used by the Indians for food, which they dry, 
 pound, and make into mash. It is more of a potato than apple, 
 lor it grows six inches under ground, is about tln^ size of a 
 hen's egg, covered with a dark -brown woody hard skin the 
 sixteenth ()f an inch thick : the fruit is easily drawn from the 
 skin, and is of a whitibh colour. It had no ilowers, the roots 
 were woody, leaves ovate and attacheil in tives. When dry, 
 the {.pple is hard as wood, and has to be pounded for use. 
 
 The coimtry grew poorer the farther they ascended the river ; 
 and the bluffs showed traces of iron, sulphur, and magnesia. 
 
 "3/(12/ 28. Wo now see buffakx^s everyday; they are extrenudy 
 
 2 A 
 

 ! 
 ' 1 
 
 
 1 
 •J 
 
 I ■ 
 •i ■ 
 
 1 
 
 
 ^^jSs y j gtgg a&iK 
 
 i iS iStiw 'Kr ' ' w u i 
 
 
 o 
 
 31 
 
 I 
 
 :* 
 
 lU 
 
 f^- 
 
 3r)4 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 poor, but they aro sjiorting among themselves, beating and 
 tearing up the earth. They liave roads to tlio river, along which 
 they go and come for watei', 
 
 " 'i'o-day some Indians hailed us from the shore, and when t'no 
 captain refused to stop for them, they began iiring at us witli 
 riHes : several of tlie balls hit our vessel, and one passed through 
 the pantaloons of a Scotch passenger. These rascals belong to 
 a party of the Santeo tribe, which range across the country from 
 the Missouri to the Jlississippi lliver. 
 
 "May 21). This morning a i)arty of Indians CiijMe on board tlie 
 boat at a landing-place, and it was some hours before we couhl 
 get rid of these beggars by trade. Both banlcs of the river wcro 
 covered with buffaloes, as far as the eye could t;oe ; and a^ though 
 many of them were near the Wiiter, tliey did nc t nove until we 
 were close upor tuem, and those at the dis>(;»!,te of half a mile 
 kept on quietly grazing. We saw scv'-fiil '^ ,.iuIoos, and oae 
 liU'ge gray wolf swimming across tlic vivv?r oidy a short disttiiice 
 ahead of us. 
 
 " The prairies ajipear better now, and die 'raes looks green, 
 and the poor buffaloes, of which w^ hive :'>\n more than two 
 thousand this morning, will soon gro >>' fat. 
 
 '^ May '/). We reached Fori, Gleorge thiv morning, which is 
 called ' Tilt Siat'^ri of the Opposition Ijine.' We saw some 
 Indians, and a liv/v lo.iges on die edge of the p-airie, aiul 
 sundry bales ■>.( ''^nvio-robes were taken aboard. Major 
 Hamilton is acting Indian Agent during the absence of Major 
 Crisp. W^e are ii long way beyond the reach ol civil law, ami 
 they settle disputes here Avitli sword aiul pistol. Tlie major 
 
 pointed to an island where Mr. , a New Yorker belongiug to 
 
 the opposite line, killed two white men recently, and shot two 
 others, who were miserable miscreants. 
 
 " We are yet thirty miles below St. Pierre, and do not 
 expect to reach it until to-morrow. Indians were seen along I 
 both sides of the river: many trade at this post and at St, 
 Pierre; at the latter I am told there are five hundred lodgoil 
 The Indian dogs resemble the wolves so much that I sliouUl 
 rea lily mistake the «ni(^ for the other were I to meet them iul 
 tlu- woods. 
 
 
 " Soon after leaving bt. George, we sounded and found 
 
 oiilv 
 
AUlllVAL A'l' ST. PIERRE. 
 
 355 
 
 solves, beatiufif aim 
 10 rivor, along wliicli 
 
 shore, and when tho 
 in iiring at lis witli 
 1 Olio pass(.'d througb 
 iio rascals belong to 
 OSS the country from 
 
 IS oiMne on board tlie 
 urs before we could 
 nks of the river wero 
 d soe ; and iC though 
 I iH *: ^love until we 
 i6-t;n,eo if half a mile 
 A 'y ,:liloes, and one 
 only a sliort distance 
 
 3 -rass looks groeii, 
 \:n more than two 
 
 morning, which \> 
 me.' \Yc saw some 
 of the p'airie, ami 
 :en aboard. Major 
 le absence of Major 
 ich ol civil law, aud 
 
 pistol. I'he major 
 
 Yorker belonging to 
 
 ceutlv, and shot two 
 
 l*ierre, and do not 
 ans were seen aloiii 
 liis post and at St. 
 five hundred lodges, 
 much that I sliouU 
 I to meet them i" 
 
 ded and found (Hily 
 
 three and a half feet of water, and tho captain gave orders to 
 'tie up,' and we started on a walk for St. Pierre. On reaching 
 tlio camp, wo found it a strongly-built low log-eabin, in which 
 was a Mr. Cutting, v/ho had met my son Victor in Cuba. 
 Yesterday, wliile lie was on a bufliilo-hunt, a cow hooked his 
 horse, and tlirew liiiu about twenty feet, and injured his ankle. 
 This he thought remarkable, as the cow had not been wounded. 
 He showed me a petrified head of a wolf, which I discovered to 
 ho not a wolfs but a beaver's. There were fifteen lodges here, 
 and a great number of squaws and half-bred children ; and these 
 are accounted for by the fact that every clerk and agent Las 
 his Indian wife as she is called." ■ 
 
 June I. The party had arrived at St. Pierre, and from thence 
 the Omega, in which they had made their trip, was expected to 
 return to St. JiOuis. The Journal continues : " I am somewhat 
 surprised that Sprague asked me to allow him to return in the 
 Omega. I told him ho was at liberty to do so of course if lie 
 desired it, though it will cause mo double the laljour I expected 
 to liave. Had I known this before leaving New York, I could 
 have had any number of young artists, who would have been 
 glad to have accompanied and romained with me to tho end of 
 tho expedition. 
 
 " June 2. We have left St. Pierre and are going on up the 
 river, deeper and deeper into tho wilderness. We passed tho 
 Chagenue Kiver, which is quite a large stream." 
 
 Audubon hired a hunter named Alexis Bouibarde at St. Pierr 
 to accompany him to the Y'^ellow-stone lliver, and thus descrii 
 him: "He is a first-rate hunter, powerfully built, is a half-brii ., 
 aud wears his hair loo,9e about his head and shoulders, ;i.^ I 
 formerly did. . . ." 
 
 " I am now astonished at the poverty of the bluffs we i lass : 
 there are no more of the beautiful limestone formations liich 
 we saw below, but they all appear to be poor and crumbling 
 clay, dry and hard now, but soft and sticky whenever it rains. 
 The cedars in the ravines, which below were fine and thrifty, .ire 
 generally dead or dying, probably owing to tlieir long inun- 
 dation. To-day we have made sixty miles; the country i.'< "uch 
 poon.'r than any wo have passed below, and tlio sand-.ais .^q 
 much more intricate. 
 
 2 A 2 
 
nntj 
 
 LIFK OF AUDURON. 
 
 it: til 
 
 Hi 
 
 " June 4. Tlio omintry wo Imvo seen to-day is a little better 
 thnu what we saw yesterday. We passi^l i\\o, old liiccarco 
 village, where Oeneral Ashley was beaten by tlie Indians, iiiid 
 lost eii>hteen of Ids men, with the very weajjons and ainnnini- 
 ti(m he had sold the Indians, against the remonstrances of 
 his friends and the interpreter. It is said that it proved for- 
 tnnate for him, for he turned his course in another direction, 
 whcne he purchased one hundred packs of beaver-skins for a 
 
 mere song. 
 
 " Passed the Square Hills, so called because they are move 
 level and less rounded than the majority of the hills. From 
 tho boat the country looks as if wo were getting above the line 
 of vegetation ; tho flowers are scarce, and the oaks have hardly 
 any leaves on them. "We are now sixteen miles below the 
 Mane Ian village, and hope to reach there to-morrow. 
 
 " June 7. Wo are now at St. Clark and the I\landan villiifre; 
 a salute was fired from the Fort in honour of our arrival, ami 
 we answei-ed it, 'I'lie Fort is situated on a high bank, quite a 
 hill ; here the Blai' u us have their mud huts, which are not 
 \ (M-y pieturesqu(\ and a few enclosed Holds, where they grow 
 corn, pumpkins, and bt.ans. Wo saw more Indians here tluni 
 :>t any otluu' ]ilace siin'(! wc left Ht. Louis; tliey have about one 
 hundred huts, and they resemble tlio potato winter-houses in 
 our 'Southern and Eastern States. As we a;iproaciir'd the shore, 
 (nury article that could bt; taken conveniently was reni'^vcJ 
 from tho deck and put under lock and K'ey, and all tlie cabin- 
 doors were closed. The ca})tain told me that last year, when 
 he was here, the Indians stole his cui», s1iot-pouch, hone, and 
 sucii-like things. These [Hjople a})[K'ared very miserable ; as 
 we api)roached the binding they stcnxl shivering in tlie rain, 
 wrapped in buffalo robv.s and red blankets; some of thcin were 
 curiously besuu^ared with mud. They came on board, luul 
 several shook me by the hand, but their hands had a clannni- 
 ness that was quite repulsive ; their legs were naked, feet 
 covered with mud ; and they stared at me with apparent 
 curiosity because of my long beard, which also attracted thi' 
 Indians at St. Pierre. It is estimated that there are three 
 thousand men, women, and children, who cram themselves intu 
 these udserable houses in winter ; thev are said to be tho m 
 
i-diiy is a little better 
 h1 tlu^ old lli('('iii{'(> 
 by the Iiulians, nw] 
 jtipoiis and ainiiniui- 
 lio remonstrances of 
 d that it proved for- 
 in another dirc(!tioti, 
 )f beaver-skins for u 
 
 }causo tliey are move 
 y of the hills. From 
 •etting above the lino 
 the oaks have hardly 
 eeu miles below tlie 
 o-morro\v. 
 
 I the ]\landaii vilhigc; 
 r of our arrival, and 
 a high bank, quite ii 
 I huts, which are not 
 Ids, where they p;iwv 
 >re Indinns here tluni 
 they have about one 
 dio winter-houses in 
 approacli'Hl tlie sliore, 
 liently was rcjunvcu 
 y, and all tlio eabiu- 
 that last year, when 
 hot-pouch, hone, ami 
 1 very miserable; as 
 liivering in the rain, 
 ; !!».>iiic of them weiv 
 came on board, and 
 lands had a claiinni- 
 gs were naked, feet 
 t me with apparent 
 eh also attracted t\v' 
 that there are three 
 cram themselves into 
 re said to be the nv 
 
 A MHDICINK LODGE. 
 
 357 
 
 plus uUm of thieves, and that jnost of the women are destitute 
 of virtue. 
 
 " At the request of the interpreter, one of the Indians took 
 me into the vilhigo to see the medicine lodge. I followed my 
 iruide through mud and mire to a largo hut, built like all the 
 rest, but measuring twenty-three yards in diameter, with a 
 large square opening in the centre of the roof six feet long by 
 four feet in width. Wo entered this euriosity-sho}) by pushing 
 aside an elk-skin stretched on four sticks. Among the medicines 
 1 saw a number of calabooses, eight or ten skidls of otters, two 
 liirgo bull'alo-skulls with tlie horns on, some sticks, and other 
 magical implements, with the use of which no one but a great 
 medicine is acquainted, 'fhero lay crouched on the floor a lousy 
 Indian, wrapped in a dirty blanket, with nothing but his head 
 sticking out : the guiile spoke to him, but he made no reply. 
 At the foot of one of the props tliat support this large house 
 lay a parcel, which I tooJc for a bnndhs of InillUlo -robes, but 
 directly it moved, and the (emaciated body of a poor blind 
 hidian cre[)t out of it ; he was shrivelled, and the guide made 
 signs that he was about to die. W(! shook hands with Jiim, and 
 he pressed mine, as if glad of the syiiq)athy of even a stranger; 
 lie had a pi[)e and tobacco-box, and s(ion lay down again. As 
 wo left this abode of mysteries, I told the guide 1 was anxious 
 to see the inside of one of their common dwtdlings, and he led 
 us through the mud to his own lodge, which had an entrance 
 like the other. All the lolges have a sort of portico that 
 loads to the door, and on the top of most of tlujm 1 observed 
 skulls of bufl'aloes. 'i'his lodge (contained the nife and children 
 of tlui guide and another man, wliom I took for his son-in-law; 
 all these, excej)t the man, were in the outer loilge, squatting on 
 the ground, and the children skulked out of the way as we 
 a|n>r()ached. iS'early '.'qui-distant from each other ^\cre kind 
 of berths, raised two feet above the ground, made of leather, 
 and with S(piai<^ a[)ertures for the sleepers. The man of whom 
 1 have s[iokeu was lying down in one of these. I walked u]) to 
 him, and alter dist\irbing his seemingly happy slumbers, shook 
 his hand, and he unide signs for me to sit down. 1 did so, and 
 ho arose, and squattc.'d himself near us; and taking u large 
 s{M)()n made of a buffalo's hoi'n, handed it to a young giil, who 
 
'•iMMMMm 
 
 
 f 
 
 h 
 
 » ; 
 
 1 1 
 
 I! 
 
 358 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON, 
 
 brought a large wooden bowl filled with pemmican mixed with 
 corn and some other stuff: I ate a moutlit'nl of it, and t'onud it 
 quite palatable. Both lodges were alike dirty with water and 
 mud ; but I am told that in dry times they aro kept more 
 cleanly. A round shallow hoh^ was in the centre, and a chain 
 hung from above near the fire, and on this they hang tlioir 
 meat and cook. On leaving I gave our guide a small piece (it 
 tobacco, and he seemed well pleased, but followed us on board 
 the boat ; and as he passed my room, and saw my specimens of 
 stufled animals and birds, manifested some curiosity to see 
 them. 
 
 " The general appearance of the fort is poor, and the country 
 around is overgrown with the weed called 'family quarter.' 
 And I saw nothing here corresponding to the poetical descri]!- 
 tions of writers who make their clay-banks enchanted castles, and 
 this wretched savage life a thing to be desired, even by the most 
 happy civilized men. These Indians are mostly llecaroes: 
 they are tall, lank, and redder than most others that I liavc 
 seen, but they are all miserable-looking and dirty. Tiiey 
 occupy the village where the powerful tribes of Mandans once 
 lived, but which were swept away by the dreadful scourge of 
 the small-pox ; only twelve or fifteen families survive, and they 
 removed three miles up the river, 
 
 " June 8. To-day we have had a famous Indian council on 
 board our boat. It consisted of thirty-four Indians of the first 
 class ; they squatted on their rumps on both sides of our long 
 cabin, and received refreshments of coffee and ship-bread, and I 
 assisted in doing this duty ; and a box of tobacco was tlieii 
 opened and placed on the table ; the captain then made a 
 speech to them, and one Indian interpreted it to the others. 
 They frequently expressed their approbation by grunting, awl 
 were evidently much pleased. Two Indians came in, dres-^ed 
 in blue uniforms, witli epaulettes on their shouldirs. ami 
 feathers in their caps, and with ornamented mocassins aiiJ 
 legging.s : these were the braves of the tribes, and th"V did not 
 grunt or shake hands with any of us. 
 
 " As soon as the tobacco was distributed, the whole company 
 rose simultaneously, and we shook hands with each one, ami 
 gladly bid them good riddance. The two braves waited until 
 
eramit'an mixed with 
 1x1 of it, and found it 
 dirty witli water and 
 they are kept more 
 ) centre, and a chain 
 this they hang their 
 nide a small piece (if 
 followed U8 on board 
 saw my specimens of 
 ome curiosity to see 
 
 poor, and the country 
 led ' family quarter.' 
 the poetical desoriii- 
 enchanted castles, and 
 red, even by the most 
 ire mostly llecan^es; 
 t others that I liave 
 ig and dirty. Tluy 
 bes of Mandans once 
 dreadful scourge of 
 lies survive, and they 
 
 IS Indian council on 
 
 r Indians of the first 
 
 )oth sides of our long 
 
 and shii)-bread, and I 
 
 of tobacco was then 
 
 aptain then made a 
 
 ted it to the others. 
 
 ion by grunting, and 
 
 ans came in, dres.<e(l 
 
 their shoulders, ami 
 
 leuted mocassins ami 
 
 ibes, and th"V did not 
 
 1, the whole company 
 s with each one, and 
 o braves waited until 
 
 AN INDIAN COUNCIL. 
 
 860 
 
 III! the others were on shore, and then retired maj(^stically as 
 tlioy Inul entered, not shaking hands even with the cajjiaiii, 
 ivlio had entertained them and made the speech. This is a 
 ceremony which takes place yearly as the Company's boat 
 goes up. Each Indian carried away about two pounds of 
 tt)bacco. Two of the Indians who distributed the tobacco, and 
 were of the highest rank, were nearly naked, and one by my 
 side had only a clout and one legging on. They are now all 
 gone but one, who goes with us to the Yellow-stone lliver. 
 
 ; "This morning the thermometer stood at 37°. We have 
 passed the village of the poor ]\randans, and of the G rosventres, 
 
 , to-day : the latter is cut oif from the river by an enormous 
 sand-bar, now covered with willows. We saw a few Indian 
 forn-fields ; the plants were sickly-looking, and about two inches 
 
 ' high. The prairies are very extensive, stretcliing away to the 
 hills, and there are deep ravines in them filled with water 
 sufficiently saline to be used by the Indians for seasoning their 
 food. 
 
 "June 13. Fort Union. Thermometer 53°, 72°, 68°. Wo 
 arrived here to-day, and have made the shortest trip from St. 
 Louis on record, just forty-eight days. Wo have landed our 
 effects, and .established ourselves in a log-house, with one room 
 and one window, intending to spend three weeks here before 
 launching into the wilderness. 
 
 " There has been no ardent spirits sold here for two years, 
 and the result is, the Indians are more peaceable than formerly. 
 On the plains we saw the mounds where many Indians had 
 been buried who died here of the small-pox. TJiere were 
 apparently several bodies in each mound, and a buffalo's skull 
 was put over each one : this relic has some superstitious value 
 
 i in the estimation of these poor ignorant creatures. 
 
 " Our boat has been thronged with these dirty savages ever 
 since we fastened her to the landing, and it is with difficulty 
 we can keep them from our rooms. All around tlie village the 
 filth is beyond description, and the sights daily seen will not 
 bear recording : they have dispelled all the romance of Indian 
 life I ever had, and I am satisfied that all the poetry about 
 Indians is contained in books ; there certainly is none in their 
 wild life in the woods. The captain of our vessel told me that 
 
nsna 
 
 810 
 
 LIFK OF AUbUHON. 
 
 f 
 
 (II 
 
 ■ 
 
 Q 
 
 r, 
 
 > 
 
 l ! 
 
 .-1 
 
 on lu's lirst tri[> lioro in n stcumor, tlio Indians called her a 
 great nvodieine, 8n[»post'd that he fed her with vvlusky und 
 asked Jiow much ho <^avo her at a time. To which ho ro[)licil, 
 * A whole barrel.' " 
 
 It appears that the Omo}j;a did not, as ori;j;iually intended, 
 return I'roni St. IMcrre, but kept on to the Yellow-stone llivor. 
 There Audubon bade the captain adieu with much regret, and 
 wrote him u compliin''ntary letter, which all the passengers 
 signed. 
 
 "June 14. To-day, IVFr. Chantean, and ]\Ir. Min-ray, a Scotch- 
 man, arrived from the Crow Indian nation. They told me tlio 
 snow was yet three I'eet deep, and quite abundant near tlio 
 mountains. I learned to-day that the PriU' e of Canine, with 
 his secretary and bird-stufler, (lecupicd the rooms I now have 
 for two months." 
 
 The interval between this and the 20th of June was employed 
 in various excursions and exciting hunts after the bull'ido. 
 
 June 20. A stormy day pre\ents ont-door excursions, and 
 Audul)on em[)loys it in recording in his Journal an account o'i 
 the ravages of the small-pox among the Indians, whi(di iu' 
 receivt'd from an eyowitncss. 'i'he ^laiiduns and Kecan'cs 
 sulfered most, though many Sioux and lilackfoot Indians 
 perished witli them. 
 
 " Early in the spring of 1837 the steamer Assibono arrived at 
 Fort Clark with several cases of small-[)i)X on board. Tlierc an 
 Indian stole a blank(>t belonging to a, watchman on the boat, 
 who was then at the point of death, and iook it away to sow the 
 seeds of this disease among his tribe, which caused his 
 own death and the deatli of thousands of his nation. When 
 it was known that he had taken it, a bejievolent person on the 
 boat went to one of th'' chiefs, told him the fatal conseijuences 
 which would follow, and oflbred to give a new bhmket and a 
 reward besides if he would hav(^ it returned ; but suspicion, fear, 
 or shame prevented the man from giving it up, and the pestileneo 
 broke out and began to spread among the IMandans at iirst, 
 to which nation the thief belonged. 
 
 " IMost of the Indians were distant eighty miles at that time, 
 killing buffaloes and preparing their winter food; and the whites 
 sent an express begging them to return to their villages, and 
 
 w 
 
idians callod her a 
 r with ^vhi8kv^ nnd 
 \) which ho ro[)lio(l, 
 
 ori<j;inaIly intended, 
 
 Yt'llow-stono liivor. 
 
 h miK'h regret, and 
 
 all tho passengers 
 
 r. Mnrray, a Scotoli- 
 Tlioy t(dd me tho 
 
 abundant near the 
 im e of Canine, with 
 
 rooms I now have 
 
 ' Jnno was employed 
 jr the bnllalo. 
 loor excursions, and 
 )urnal an account of 
 
 Indians, wlii(di lie 
 iduns and Kocarees 
 
 lUacktbot Indians 
 
 Assibone arrived at 
 
 on board. Theiv an 
 
 (.dunan on the boat, 
 
 k it away to sow tlie 
 
 whieh eaiised his 
 
 his nation. When 
 
 V'olent person on the 
 
 fatal consoquenees 
 
 new blanket and a 
 
 but suspicion, fear, 
 
 ip, and the pestilcuee 
 
 10 IMandans at iirst. 
 
 y miles at that time, 
 food ; and the whites 
 o their villages, and 
 
 EFFKCT8 OF TlIK aMALI,-POX. 
 
 .101 
 
 tidling thom what would be tho fatal consecpiencos. Tho 
 Indians sent back word that their corn was suffering to be 
 worked, and that thoy would return and faco tho danger, which 
 they thought was fabulous. Word was again sent thorn that 
 certain destruction would attend their return ; but it was all in 
 vain, come back thoy would, and come buck thoy did, and tho 
 plague began in its most nuilignant form, their habits and 
 improper food making them a ready prey, and a few hours 
 sometimes terminating the loathsome disease by death. 
 
 "The Mandans were eniagod because at first it was confined 
 to them, and they supposed tho whitens laul caused it, and savetl 
 themselves and tho llecarees from the pestilence; and tlif^y 
 threatened the lives of all the former, supposing they had a 
 medicine to prevent it, whicdi they would not give them. J hit 
 by-and-by ilecarces and whites died also ; the disease increased 
 in malignity — hundreds died daily, and tlieir bodies were thrown 
 beneath tho blnfls, and created an intoleralde stemdi, and added 
 to its fatalness. Men shot each other when they found they 
 were attacked : one man killed his wife and children, and then 
 loaded his gun and placing the muzzle in his mouth, touched 
 the trigger with his too and blew out his own brains. One young 
 chief made his friends dig a grave ibr him, and putting on his 
 war-robes, he tottered out to it, singing his death-song, and 
 jumping in, cut his body nearly in two with a knife, and waf 
 buried there ; and others comnu'tted suicide after they were 
 attacked, rather than die of the loathsome disease. The annals 
 of pestilence do not furnish another such example of horrors, 
 or where the !nortality was so great in propo'tion to the popula- 
 tion : of the once powerful tribe of Mandans only twenty-seven 
 persons rer.iained, and one hundred and iilty tliousand 
 persons peiished, and the details are too horrible to rcdate. 
 Added to this, the few whites were alarmed lest the Indians 
 should massacre them as the cause of tho evil. One inlln- 
 ential chief attempted to instigate the Indians to kill all 
 the whites, but he was himself seized and died before his plans 
 wore matured ; but in his last moments he confessed his wicked- 
 ness, and expressed sorrow for it, and begged that his body 
 might be laid before the gate of the fort until it was buried, 
 with the superstitious belief that if this were done the white 
 

 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.1 
 
 Hi MM U2S 
 
 |50 ■^" H^H 
 
 us 
 
 IM 
 
 L25 iu 
 
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 1.6 
 
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 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 972-4503 
 

362 
 
 LIFE OP AUDUBON. 
 
 1 h 
 
 I 
 
 f man would always look at him and forgive his meditated 
 crime." 
 
 The Journal is taken up until the end of July with narratives 
 of almost daily excursions in various directions in search of all 
 kinds of game. Many anecdotes arc related of the Indians, 
 their modes of life, habits, and peculiarities, most of which have 
 been described by other writers, and hardly merit repeating 
 again. Audubon found this region so rich in novelties of the 
 kinds he had come in pursuit of, that he was anxious that 
 some of the yoimg men of his party should remain through the 
 winter. " My regrets that I cannot remain myself are beyond 
 description, and I now sadly regret that I promised you all that 
 I would return home this fall. 
 
 " August 3. We observed ye'aterday for the first time that 
 the atmosphere wore the hazy appearance of the Indian summer. 
 The nights and mornings are cool, and summer clothes are 
 beginning to b6 uncomfortable." 
 
 This seems to have caused Audubon to begin to think 
 seriously of turning his course homeward. The exposure and 
 hardships he had encountered in this long journey, and on 
 his hunting excursions, had made an impression on his health. 
 
 He began to find that his age was telling on his energy, and 
 that he could not endure hardships as formerly. 
 
 The Journal continues for ten days more, then abruptly ends, 
 from which we conclude that the writer began to make pre- 
 parations to return home. He reached New York early in 
 October, 1843. 
 
ive his meditatod 
 
 aly with narratives 
 lis in search of all 
 ed of the Indians, 
 nost of which have 
 ly merit repeating 
 in novelties of the 
 was anxious that 
 emain through the 
 myself are beyond 
 )mised you all that 
 
 the first time that 
 he Indian summer, 
 mmer clothes are 
 
 .0 begin to think 
 The exposure and 
 ; journey, and on. 
 in on his health, 
 on his energy, and 
 
 then abruptly ends, 
 )gan to make pre- 
 ew York early in 
 
 t'\ 
 
 CHAPTER LVIII. 
 
 The Sunset, 
 
 When Audubon returned from his expedition to the Western 
 Prairies he had reached nearly his seventieth year, yet he began 
 at once to work with his usual energy and diligence. In a little 
 more than two years appeared the first volume of the " Quad- 
 rupeds of North America ;" and this was about his last work. 
 The second volume was prepared mostly by his son Victor, 
 and was published the year liis father died, 1851. 
 
 The interval of about three years which passed between the 
 time of Audubon's return from the West and the period when 
 his mind began to fail, was a short and sweet twilight to his 
 adventurous life. 
 
 He was now an old man, and the fire which had burned so 
 steadily in his heart was going out gradually. Yet there are 
 but few things in his life more interesting and beautiful than 
 the tranquil happiness he enjoyed in the bosom of his family, 
 with his two sons and their children under the same roof, in the 
 short interval between his return from his last earthly ex- 
 pedition, and the time when his sight and mind began to grow 
 dim, until mental gloaming settled on him, before the night of 
 death came. 
 
 His loss of sight was quite peculiar in its character. His 
 glasses enabled him to see objects and to read long after his 
 eye was unable to find a focus on the canvas. This fretted him 
 a great deal, and led to his relinquishing drawing and painting, 
 
 f! 
 
> « 
 
 364 
 
 LIFE OF AIJDUIJON. 
 
 
 which had always been sources of the purest pleasure to him. 
 After this his only amusement consisted in walking and being 
 read to. The following fine thoiigli juvenile account of one who 
 visited him at that time gives the best picture of the last happy 
 days of the sunset of his life which can be drawn. It a{)pearod 
 in the " New York Leader :" — 
 
 " In my interview with the naturalist, there were several tilings 
 that stamped themselves indelibly upon my mind. The 
 wonderful simplicity of the man was perhaps the most remark- 
 able. His enthusiasm for facts made him unconscious of him- 
 self. To make him happy, you had only to give him a new 
 fact in natural history, or introduce him to a rare bird. His 
 self-forgetfulness was very impressive. I felt that I had found 
 a man who asked homage for God and Nature, and not for 
 himself. 
 
 " The unconscious greatness of the man seemed only equalled 
 by his child-like tenderness. The sweet unity between liis wif'o 
 and himself, ad they turned over the original drawings of hi.s birds, 
 and recalled the circumstances of the drawings, some of which had 
 been made when she was with him ; her quickness of percep- 
 tion, and their mutual entliusiasm regarding these works of his 
 heart and hand, and the tenderness with which tliey imcou- 
 sciously treated eacli other, all was imjjressed upcm my memory. 
 Ever since, I have been convinced that Audubon owed niort! 
 to his wife than tiie world knew, or ever would know. That sliu 
 was always a reliance, often a help, and ever a sympathising 
 sister-soul to her noble husband, was fully apparent to me. I 
 was deeply impressed with the wonderful character of those 
 original drawings. 
 
 " Their exquisite beauty and life-likeness, and the feeling of 
 life they gave me, I have preserved in ray memory ; and tlie 
 contrast between these impressions and those of the published 
 works of Audubon is veiy marked. The great work recalls 
 the feelings I then had, but by no means creates such emotions. 
 The difference is as great as the difference between the living 
 Audubon and his admirable picture by Cruilcshank. I looked 
 from him to his jucture in that interview. It was the naturalist, 
 and yet it was not. There was a venerable maturity in the 
 original that had been gained since the features and the sj)irit 
 
HIS END APrilOACHES. 
 
 3G5 
 
 3t pleasure to liiin. 
 walking and being 
 a(j('Ount of one who 
 3 of the last luippy 
 'awn. It ap[)earocl 
 
 were several things 
 my miml. The 
 ^ tlie most remark- 
 mconscious of liim- 
 o give him a new 
 a rare bird. His 
 It that I had found 
 ature, and not for 
 
 :enied only equalled 
 
 ity between liis wife 
 
 Irawings of his birds, 
 
 p, some of which lunl 
 
 liekness of perecp- 
 
 r, these works of his 
 
 whicli tliey uneou- 
 
 ;1 upon my memory. 
 
 udubon owed mort; 
 
 lid know. That slu; 
 
 ver a sympathising 
 
 apparent to me. I 
 
 eharaeter of those 
 
 i, and the feeling of 
 y memory ; and tlic 
 ose of the published 
 
 great work reealls 
 eates sucli emotions. 
 
 between the living 
 iiilvshank. I looked 
 
 t was the naturalist, 
 )le maturity in the 
 itures and the spirit 
 
 of the young and ordent enthusiast had been imprisoned by the 
 artist. The picture expressed decidedly less than the living 
 man who stood before me. It had more of youth and beauty 
 and the ])rophecy of greatness, and less of the calm satis- 
 faction of achievement ; the sense of riches gained, not for 
 himself, but for tho world, and less of all that makes a man 
 venerable. 
 
 " I could sympathise with the manhood that looked out of the 
 picture — I could find a certain equality between myself and 
 the man whom Cruikshank had painted. I could have followed 
 him like his dog, and carried his gun and blanket like a younger 
 Itrothor; but before the man Audubon, who turned over the 
 drawings, and related anecdotes of one and another, I could 
 have knelt in devotion and thankfulness. He had done his 
 work. He was a hero, created and appi'oved by what he had 
 accomplished, and I bowed my spirit before him and asked no 
 endorsement of my hero-worship of Carlyle or the Catholic 
 Church. 
 
 " When I left, I said to him, ' I have seen Audubon, and I am 
 very thankful.' 
 
 " ' You have seen a poor old man,' said he, clasping my hand 
 in his — and he was then only sixty years of age. Ho had 
 measured life by what he had done, and he seemed to himself 
 to bo old. 
 
 "It is hard to confine one's self to dates and times when con- 
 templating such a man as Audubon. He belongs to all time. 
 }Ie was born, but lie can never die." 
 
 After 1840, his mind entirely tailed him ; and for the last 
 few years of his life his eye lost its brightness, and he had 
 to be led to his daily walks by the hand of a servant. This 
 continued until the IMonday before his death. On Monday morn- 
 ing he declined to eat his breakfast, and was unable to take his 
 usual morning walk. Sirs. Audubon had him put to bed, and 
 he lay without any apparent sufi'ering, but refusing to receive 
 any nourishment, until five o'clock on Thursday raornhig, January 
 27th, 1851, ' when,' says the widow, ' a deep pallor overspread his 
 countenance.' The other members of his family were imme- 
 diately sent for to his bedside. Then, though he did not speak, 
 his eyes, which had been so long nearly quenched, rekindled into 
 
If 
 
 ;;» 
 
 SGfi 
 
 LIFE OF AUDUBON. 
 
 their former lustre and beauty; his spirit beemed to be con- 
 scious that it was approaching the spirit-land. One of the sons 
 said, * Minnie, father's eyes have now their natural expression ;' 
 and the departing man reached out his arms, took his wife's 
 and children's hands between his own, and passed peacefully 
 away. 
 
 k 
 
 THE END. 
 
 LONDON I PRINTED By WltLIAM CLOWIM AND SONS, 8TAUF0RD gTllERT 
 AKI> CKARIKO CItUSS. 
 
beeraed to be con- 
 l. One of the sons 
 atural expression;' 
 ms, took his wife's 
 passed peacefully 
 
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 TIIK KSSAYS OF AIIUAIIAM COWIiKY. CoinpriHiiiK till 
 
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 AUDALLAII AND TIIK FOUIILKAVKI) SHAMROCK. 
 
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 TABLK-TALK AND OPINIONS OF NAl'OLKON THE 
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 THE GENTLE LIFE. Essays in Aid of the Formation of 
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 m- 
 
 II. 
 
 ABOUT IN THE WOKLl). Essays by the Author of "The 
 Gentle Life." 
 
 " It /•• not easy to open it at any page without finding some happy idea." 
 Morning Post. 
 
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List of Publications. 
 
 Series, 
 
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 cscnta. 
 
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 [ the Formation of 
 th Edition, 
 
 triu'nt order 
 
 (Imii by honest reason, 
 4 Uth^- compendium of 
 
 nd eircitated in every 
 
 thfiil, sine 're, generous : 
 )»i." -Spei-tator. 
 n valuable cnmpnsitinn, 
 .panionship."—i>iortmg 
 
 uiih a nni' r.isnyist who 
 r rhoit.-st visdnm of mir 
 I Christian ideas of duty 
 inrld, u-ere not ashamed 
 Jon Kevitw. 
 
 the Author of " The 
 
 'nding some happy idea." 
 
 s, that they make it their 
 •inhs and the correetiuns, 
 nr maxims, or principles, 
 I ilernrv riinichmnii 
 
 III. 
 FAMILIAR WORDS. An Index Verborum, or Quotation 
 
 Handbook. Affordina an immediate Hefercnce to Phrasen and Kentcnces 
 thut have become embedded in the English language. Second and en- 
 larged Edition. 
 
 •' Should he un every library table, by the side uf'Jtoget'a '''hesaurus.' " 
 —Daily News. 
 
 " Almost every familiar quotation is to be found in this ivorl;, lehich 
 forms a bonk of reference r.bsolutely imlispcnsiwlc to the literary man, imd 
 if interest and service to the public generally. Mr. J''nswell luis our 
 best thiinks for his painstaking, laburiuus, and conscientious itocA."— City 
 Press. 
 
 IV. 
 
 LIKE UNTO CHRIST. A new translation of the '< De Imita- 
 
 tione Chridti," nsually ascribed to Thomas 4 Kempis. With a Vignette 
 from an Uriginul Drawing by Sir Thomas Lawrence. 
 
 Think of the little work of Thninas a h'empis, translated into a hundred 
 languages, and sold by millions of copies, and which, in inmost moments 
 of deep thought, men make the guide of their hearts, and the friend of 
 their closets." — Archbishop of Vork, at the Literary Fund, 1865. 
 
 V. 
 ESSAYS BY MONTAIGNE. Edited, Compaied, Revised, and 
 
 Annotated by the Author of "The Gentle Life." With Vipn-.tte Portrait. 
 
 " The reader really gets in a compact form all of the chuniiing, chatty 
 Montaigne that he needs to know." — Observer. 
 
 " We should be glad if any words of ours could help to bespeak n large 
 circulation for this handsome attractive bonk ; and who can refuse his 
 homage to the good-humoured industry of the editor." — Illuslruted Times. 
 
 VI. 
 
 THE COUNTESS OF PEMBROKES ARC/.i,xA. Written 
 
 hy Sir Philip Sidney. Edited, with Notes, by the Ai.thor of "The Gentle 
 Life." Dedicated, by permission, to the Earl of Derby. Is. M. 
 
 " All tlie best things in the Arcadia arc retained intact in Mr. Fviswell's 
 edition, and even brought into gnafer prominence than in the original, by 
 the curtailment of snmc of its inferior portions, and the omission of n:ost of 
 its eclogues and other metrical digressions" — Examiner, 
 
 " The book is now presented to rhc modern reader in a shape the most 
 likely to be aceej/tnble in these days of much litiriiturc and fastidious 
 taste." — Daily News. 
 
 " It was ill itself a thing so interesting as a development of /■English 
 literature, that we are thankful to Mr. hrisice/l for reproducing, in a 
 very elegant volume, the chief work of the gnllnnt and chivalrous, the gai/ 
 yet learned knii/kt, who patronised the muse of Sni <iser, and fell upon the 
 b/oody fiibl if y.utphen , leaving behind him a light of heroism and humane 
 compassion which u'oiihl shid an iternal i/lory on his name, though all he 
 ever wrote liad pi.vislied with himself" — London He\ iew. 
 
8 
 
 Sampson Low and Co.'s 
 
 ff 
 
 1 
 
 J- 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 ; 
 
 
 
 Ji' 
 
 
 :« 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 VII. 
 
 TII15 GENTLE LIFE. Second Series. Third Edition. 
 
 " TTiere w the siinw minqled power and simplicity u-hich mnkes the 
 author so cmiihritimlli/ a first-rate e.isat/ist, givtng a fasrinntion in each 
 essay which will make this volume at least as popular as its elder brother." 
 btur. 
 
 " These essays are amongst the best in our language." — Pnblic Opinion. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 VARIA; Read' igs from Rare Books. F.eprinted, by permis- 
 sion, from the Saturday Jiivieie, Spectator, &r. 
 
 Contents:— The Angelic Doi-tor, Nostrad iinns, Thomai & Kempis, 
 Dr. J hn Fanstus, Quevedo, Mad. Gnynn, Paracelsus, HoT'ell the 
 Trnveller, Michael Bvott, Lodowick Mue^leton, Sir Thomas Btowne, 
 George Psalmanazar, The Highwaymen, The Spirit World, 
 
 " T?ie hooks discussed in this volume are nj less valuable than they are 
 rar but life is not long enough to altotv v "eader to wade through such 
 thick folios, and therefor'! the compiler is entitled to the grntitude of the 
 public for having siftti their contents, a7id thereby rendered their treasures 
 available to the aenerii reader." — Observer. 
 
 IX. 
 
 A CONCORDANCE OR VEHBAL INDEX to the whole of 
 
 Milton's Poetical Worl's. Comprising upwards of 20,000 References, 
 By Charles 1). Cleveland, LL.l). With vignette Portrait of Milton. 
 
 *.* This work affords an immediate reference to any passage in any 
 edition of Milton's Poeitis, to which it may be justly termed an indis- 
 pensrible Appendix. 
 
 " An iiiviiluiihli' Index, which the jndilishers have done a public service 
 in reprinting." — ^ote8 f.nd Queries. 
 
 X. 
 
 THE SILENT HOUR : Essays, Original and Selected. By 
 
 the Autl.or of'Th-j Gentle Life." 
 
 Contests. 
 How to re«''i ti.e S riptures . 
 Unrensoi.alle lur'.iloUtr 
 The Great Loss rf th j Worldling . 
 Ccrlii'.i(y o< Dei.th .... 
 
 On the U.enlness of Gid 
 
 Our Daily Hread 
 
 The Art of Contentment 
 
 The Foolish K^rhauge .... 
 
 Ol a Peactahle Temper. 
 
 On till: Marriag ■ King . 
 
 Nearer to God 
 
 The Siinctify of Home .... 
 The Thankful Heart .... 
 Pilcnce. Meditation, and Rest. 
 
 And other Kssavs hv the Kditor. Second Kdition. 
 
 From the Homilies. 
 Isaac Barrow. 
 Richard Baxter. 
 Dean Sherlock. 
 Massillon. 
 Bishop Latimer, 
 Ari'hbishop Sandys. 
 Jeremy Taylor 
 Isaac Ilarrow. 
 Jeremy Taylor. 
 Archbishop Sandys. 
 John Ruskin. 
 Isaak Wulton. 
 
 X .'ft 
 
 •5 
 
hird Edition. 
 
 ilicity which makes the 
 \g (I fnxrinntion in each 
 Uir as its elder brother." 
 
 age." — Poblic Opinion. 
 
 printed, by permis- 
 
 ns, Thomas & Kempis, 
 'arB('el8U8, Hoi? ell the 
 , Sir Thomas Browne, 
 irit World. 
 
 s rnluable than they are 
 er to wade through such 
 I to the urntitude of the 
 rendered their treasures 
 
 EX to the i.luile of 
 s of 20,000 References. 
 tte Portrait of Milton, 
 e to any pu«8U|{e in any 
 jnstly termed an lUilis- 
 
 ;e done a public service 
 
 and Selected. By 
 
 From the Homilies. 
 Isaac Barrow. 
 Iliehard Baxter. 
 Dean Sherlock. 
 Mn<^»illnn. 
 Bishop Latimer. 
 Ari'hbishop Sandys. 
 Jeremy Taylor 
 Isaac Itarrow. 
 Jeremy Taylor. 
 Archbishop Sandys. 
 John Uuskin. 
 Isaak Walton. 
 
 nd Edition. 
 
 List of Puhlkatto)\s. 
 
 9 
 
 LITERATURE, VTORKS OF REFERENCE, ETC. 
 
 HE Origin and Hi.slory of the Enelish Language, and 
 of the early literature it embodies. By the Hon. Oeorge P. 
 Marsh, U. H. Minister iit Turin, Author of " Lectures on the 
 Knglifh Language." t)\ j. cloth ctra, 16s. 
 
 lA'cturcs (III the Enjrlish Language; forming the Introductory 
 neries to the foregoing Work. By the same Author. 8vo. Cloth, ltt>. 
 This is the only author's edition. 
 
 Man and Nature ; or, Physical Geography as Modified by Human 
 Action. By Qeorge P. Marsh, Author of " Lectures on the English Lan- 
 guage," &c. 8vo. cloth, Us. 
 
 " Mr. M.irxh, well known a.^ the author of two of the most scholarly 
 works yet published on the English lanpunge, sets himself in excellent 
 spii it, and with immense learning, to indicate the character, and, approri- 
 niately, t/ie extent of the changes produced by human action in the physical 
 condition of the nlobe we inhabit. /'» four divisions of his work, Mr. 
 Marsh traces the history of human inaustry as shown in the extensive 
 modification ami extirpation of animal and vegetable life in the woods, the 
 waters, and the sands ; and, in a concluding chiipter, he diicu.^ses the pro- 
 bable and possible geographical chamjes yet to be wrought. The whole of 
 Mr. Marsh's book is an eloquent showing of the duty of care in the estab- 
 lishment of luirmony between man's life atul the forces of nature, so as to 
 bring to their hijjhest points the fertility of the soil, the vigour of the animal 
 life, and the salubrity of the climate, on which we Lave to depend for the 
 physical well-being of m.nildnd." — Examiner. 
 
 Her Majesty's Mails: a History of the Post Office, and an 
 
 Industrial Account of its Present Condition. By Wm. Lewins, of the 
 General Post Ofllce. 2nd Edition, revised and enlarged, with a Photo- 
 graphic Portrait of Sir Uowland Hill. Snirll post 8vo. 6*. 
 
 " Will take its stand as a really u.iefiil book of reference on the history 
 of the Jhst. We '•earfily recommend it as a thoroughly careful per- 
 formance." — Saturda..' Rev iew. 
 
 A History of Banks for Savings ; including a full account of the 
 origin and progress of Mr. Uladstnne's recent prudential measures. By 
 William Lewins, Author of" "-r Majesty's Mails." Svo. cloth. 12.?. 
 
 The English Catalogue of Books : giving the date of publication 
 
 of every book published from 183.'i to 1863, in addition to the title, size, 
 price, and publisher, in one alphabet. An entirely new work, combining 
 the Copyrignis: af the " London Catalogue " and the " British Catalogue." 
 One thick volume ol 900 pages, half morocco. 4.5s. 
 
t I 
 
 ": 
 
 10 
 
 Sampson Low and Co.^a 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 .i^ 
 
 
 i ' 
 
 
 'H'-M 
 
 1 
 
 ■ II 
 
 m 
 
 Index tu thu Subjects of Books ])iiblis)iR(1 in tlic United Kiiifrdoni 
 
 (Itirinfi the luxt Twenty Years — 1837-1857. ContHiniiifr as many hd 74,1X10 
 refereiu'es, under subjeits, so as to ensure hnmedinte reference to tlie 
 hnuks on the subject rei|uired, each giving title, |irice, (lublisher, and 
 date. Two valnuble Apiiendices are also given — A, containing full lists 
 nf all Libraries, Cnllcctii ns, Heries, and Aiiscellanie!i— and I), a List of 
 Literary Societies, I'rint.utt Sociutiea, and their Issues. Unu vol. royal 
 8vo. Morocco, It. 6.?. 
 
 A Dictionary of Piiotography,on the Basis of Sutton's Dictionary. 
 Rewritten by Professor Dawson, of Kind's College, Kditoro'the "Journal 
 of Photography;" and Thomas Suttou, U.A., Kditor of "Photograph 
 Notes." 8vo. with numerous Illustrotions. Ss. ft/. 
 
 Dr. Worcester's New and Greatly Enlarj;;ed Dictionary of the 
 
 English Language. Adapted for Library or College Ileferenre. compris- 
 ing 40,000 Words more than Johnson's Dictionary, and ^.W pages more 
 tliun the Quarto Edition of Webster's Dictionary. In one Volume, royal 
 4to. cloth, 1,834 pp. price 31s. 6J. Half russia, 21. 2s. The Cheapest 
 Uook ever published. 
 
 " The volumes before us show n vast amount of diligence; but with 
 Webster it is diligence in combination with funcifulness, — with Wor- 
 cester in combination with good sense and judgment. Worcester's is the 
 soberer and safer book, and maybe pronoonced the best existing English 
 Lexicon." — Athinieum. 
 
 The Publishers' Circular, and General Kecord of British and 
 
 Foreign Literature; giving a transcript of the title-pngc of every work 
 published in (ireat Britain, and every work of interest published abroad, 
 with lists of all the publishing houses. 
 
 Published regularly on the l.st and l.'ith of every Month, nnd forwarded 
 post free to all parts of the world on payment of 8.5. per uiiiinni. 
 
 A Handbook to tlie (Charities (jf London. By Sanipsc n Low, 
 
 Jnii. (,'onipi'ising iin .\ccount of iipwiinls of 800 In^itilutic)us chiully in 
 London and its Vicinity. \ Gnidu to the lienevolcnt und to the I'lifor- 
 Siinute. Clotli limp, I.s-. tk/. 
 
 I'riiicc Albert's Golden Precepts. Second Kditinn, with Photo- 
 finiph. A Menioriiil of the Prince Consort: comprising Sliixims and 
 Kxtnuts from .Addresses of Ili.s lute Iloyal IIi|jhne>s. Jluny now lor 
 the llrst time collected and carcfnlly arranjicd. With an Index. Uoyal 
 Itiino. heuntifiiUy printed on toned papiT, cloth, gilt cdgcj,, 2.v. tv/. 
 
 Our Little Oiie.s in IleavcMi: Thoiij^hfs in Prose and Verse, se 
 Iccted from the Writings of favourite Authors ; with Kronli^pieci' alter 
 Sir Joshua Wejnolds. I'cap. 8vo. cloth extra. :'•.■.' tlr/. 
 
 Uiii-al Essays. With Praetical Hints on Fariiiinp; and Afrricul- 
 
 Innil .Architoiture. liy Ik. Marvel, .Antlmrof " licveries of u Itachelor." 
 1 vol. post .svo. with nunn'nms Illustrations, .'^y, 
 
 TIk- Hiiok of till! Hand-, ^^v, llie Science of Modern Piilniistrv. 
 
 Chiefly nccoi'din^ to I he KvsliMiis of n'.\rp<'nli(;ny am' Uesbarolles, l!y 
 A. It. Ciaig. .M..\. Clown ^\o. Is. txl. 
 
 M 
 
List of Publications. 
 
 11 
 
 tlio United Kinndinii 
 kiniiift as many a» 74,(HIU 
 nediute reference to tlie 
 i, {irice, iiublisher, and 
 -A, eontuining full lints 
 inies — and li, a List of 
 IsHues. One vol. royal 
 
 Sutton's Dictionary. 
 
 !. Kditoro'tlie " Jnnnml 
 Kdltor of " Photourupli 
 0./. 
 
 id Dictionary of tlu' 
 
 ege Reference, eompris- 
 ry, and S.W piiges more 
 r. In one Volume, royal 
 , 2/. L'j. The Cheiipest 
 
 of diligenre; hut with 
 iuicifulneas, — with Wor- 
 iient. Worcester's is the 
 be best existing Knglish 
 
 cord of British and 
 title-pnpe of every work 
 terest pulilished ubrnad, 
 
 y Month, and forwurdi'd 
 is. per aiiiiiini. 
 
 15y Siini|is( n Low, 
 1 Instihitions chiully in 
 nlent and to the I'nfnr- 
 
 Kitilion, with Pholii. 
 ojiipiisin^r MuxiniM and 
 ^'lint'ss. Aliiny now tor 
 Wilh lui Index, linyal 
 >!ilt cdpe>, 'in. !«/. 
 
 'rose and Verse, so 
 with Front i?|iieci' after 
 
 irininfi; and Ajrrieiil- 
 lieveries of a Uachelor." 
 
 ' Modern I'lilniistry. 
 ly am' Deslianillcs l!y 
 
 aiOORAPHY, TRAVEL, AND ADVENTURE. 
 
 pIIE Life of John Jamns Audubon, the Naturalist, in- 
 
 cinding his Romantic Adventures in the hack woods of 
 America, Correspondence with celebrated Knroneans, &r. 
 Kditcd, from materials supplied by his widow, by Itobert llu- 
 chanan, 8vo. [ Slwrtty. 
 
 Christian Heroes in the Army and Navy. By Charles Hogers, 
 
 LL.l), Author of " Lyra Uritannica." Crown 8vo, 3.1. tW. 
 
 Leopold the B'"irst, King of the Belgians ; from unpublished 
 documents, by Theodore Juste. Translated by Uobert Klack, M.A 
 
 \ln prcpdrittion. 
 
 Fredrika Bromor's Life, Letters, and Poslhumous Works. 
 Edited by her sister, Charlotte Uremer; translated from the Swedish 
 by Fred. Milow. Post 8vo. cloth. 10.v. <W. 
 
 The Uiso and Fall of the Kmperor Maximilian : an Authentic 
 History of the Mexican Krapire, 1861-7. Together with the Imperial 
 Correspondence. With Portrait, 8vo. j)rice lOs. <id. 
 
 Madame lleoamier, Memoirs and Correspondence of. Trans- 
 lated from the French and edited by J. M. Luyster. With Portrait. 
 Crown 8\o. Vs. 6rf. 
 
 Plutarch's Lives. An entirely new Library Edition, carefully 
 
 revised and corrected, with some Original Translations by the Kditor. 
 Kditcd by A. II. Clough, E''q. sometime Fellow of Oriel College, Oxford, 
 and late Professor of Knglisn La jguage and Literature at University 
 College. 5 vols. 8vo. cloth. 2/. lO.s. 
 
 Social Life of the Chinese: a Diiguerreotype of Daily Life in 
 China. Condensed from the Work ol the Uev. .1. Doolittle. by the Hev. 
 Paxton Hood. With above 100 Illustrations. I'list t<vo. price is. I'xl. 
 
 The Open Polar Sea: a Niin-iilivo of a Voyage of Discovery 
 towards the North Pile, lly Dr. Isaac I. Iliiyes. An entirely new and 
 cheaper edition. With Illustrations, Hniall post Hvo. ti.i. 
 
 The Physical Geography of the Sea and its Meteorology ; or, the 
 
 Economy of the Heaand its .Adaptations, its Salts, itsWaters, its Climates, 
 its Inhabitants, and whatever there may be of general interest in its Com- 
 mercial Uses or Inilust rial Pursuits. Hy Commander M. F. Manry, LL.U 
 Tenth Edition. With Charts. Post 8vo. cloth extra, ,5,?. 
 
 Captain Hall's Life with the Es(iuimaux. Now and cheaper 
 
 Edition, wilh Coloured Engravings and upwards of 100 Woodcuts. VS ith 
 a Map. Price 7.5. M. clotli extra. Forming the cheapest and most popu- 
 lar Edition of u work nn Arctic Life and Exploration ever published. 
 
 " Thi.s in n vi-ri/ rniKirlidhlc /no/,-, nml iiii/cis irr vi-ri/ much niixiinilir- 
 slimd both him mid /lix lm>k, Ihr niilhiir m nnenf thme men of whom gnat 
 milionx rfn icill tn f/r /■ruiiil."- Spectator. 
 

 'n 
 
 12 
 
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 6 
 
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 'At 
 
 Tho Ulnck Country luid its Groen Bdnlor Land; or, Kxpedi- 
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 Klihn Bnrritt. 8vo. cloth, |irice 12s. 
 
 A Walk from London to John O'Groats, nnd from London to 
 the Land's End and Back. With Noti'ii hy the Way. By Elihu Uunitt. 
 Two vols, prk'e &i, eai'h, with lllustrutlons. 
 
 " A'i) one am inke up thin hook irit/iiiut rriidinij it ihrnuijh. IIV timi 
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 mofi prrfrct uprrimrn of itx kind that had n-rr mm thr liijlit, so iiniiid, 
 
 d lirniight fmjfthiT : liut hi' tins 
 t iif lliejitld bi/ tkix iidditiiiniil 
 
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 tirrty, <iiid pritftind icrrr thr dtloil.f he hnd liniiitjhf toi/rfhrr 
 beaten hia former literary prmluition ou ' " 
 
 Messenger, 
 
 The Voyage Alone ; a Sail in the " Yawl, Hob Roy." By John 
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 Ilhistrntions, I'riee 5.«. 
 
 A Thousand Miles in the Hob ll()y Canoe, on Rivers and Lukes 
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 and numerous Illustrations. Fcap. 8ra. vloth, I'liee A.*, 
 
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 Illustrations. Fcap. 8vo. Price 5s. 
 
 NE\V BOOKS FOR YOUNG PEOPLE. 
 
 TORIES of the Gorilla Country, narrated for Young 
 
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 " It would be hard to find a more interesting book for boys than this." — 
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 " Younrj people will obtain from it n veiy considerable amomif of in- 
 formation touching the maimers and customs, ways and means of Africans, 
 and of course t/reat amusement in the accounts of the Gorilla. The book 
 is really a meritorious work, and is elegantly got w;;."— Athenaeum. 
 
 Life amongst the North and South American Indians, By 
 
 George Catlin. And Last UHinbles amongst the Indians beyond the 
 Rocky Mountains and the Andes. With numerous Illustrations by the 
 Author. 2 vols small post 8vo. is. each, cloth extra, 
 
 " An admirable hook, full of useful informntion, nrapt up in stories 
 peculiarly adapted to rouse the imagination and stimulate the curiosity of 
 ooys and girls. To compare a book xcith ' Hohinson Crusoe,' and to say 
 that it sustains such comparison, is to gire it high praise iiuler''."— 
 Atheuwum. 
 
 I 
 
iand; or, Expedi- 
 verlminpton, &e. Uy 
 
 1(1 from f-ondon to 
 *y. Bv Elihu Uiin-itt. 
 
 7 it rhrntii/h. H'c hml 
 'rodt'x lliiufu' UII.9 the 
 irn the liijlit. si) (wniid, 
 it tih/rthir : Imt hi' hn.i 
 field bi/ this iiilditioniit 
 sense.''— UeWaW'cMy 
 
 lib Hoy." By John 
 
 iol) Iloy Canoe." Witli 
 
 n Rivers and Tiiikos 
 ed tion. With a Mnp, 
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 ''oyago in Norway, 
 1 a Map and numerous 
 
 PEOPLB. 
 
 narrated for Younj; 
 
 ' " Discovt'ries in V'.qU'.- 
 ith 36 original Illnatrn- 
 
 ikfor boys than this."— 
 
 u.tidirnble amount of in- 
 s nnil mentis itf Afrvims, 
 ' the Gorilla. The book 
 ly;."— Atlienwum. 
 
 rican Indians. By 
 
 the Indiiins boj-ond the 
 rons Illustrations by the 
 xtra. 
 
 71, icrnpt up in stories 
 timulnte the curiosity of 
 naon Crusoe,' and to soy 
 
 hiijh praise iiuiee,^."— 
 
 Li3t of Publications. 
 
 13 
 
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 vise men. but a history of 'Natural May ic' from its earliest to its latest 
 leoiuters." — I )b9t'rv«?r. 
 
 Also unifiirm. 
 Thunder and Lightning. From llii' French of I)e Fouvielle, by D. T 
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 Alwyn Morton ; his i^ehooi and his Schoolfellows. A Story of 
 
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 Tiie Voyimo of the Constance; a tale of the I'olar Seas. By 
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14 
 
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 Under tho Waves; or tlio Hermit Criib in Soeicty. By Annie 
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