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N V V •* f /d^irr r* ED UCA TIONA L REP OR TER— EXTRA CAPTAIN GLAZIER AND HIS LAKE lan 3)nquttv INTO THE HISTORY AND PROGKESS OF EXPLORATION AT THE HEAD-WATERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI SINCE THE DISCOVERY OF LAKE ITASCA IVISON, BLAKEMAN & COMPANY NEW YORK AND CHICAGO T NOTE. The preparation of this paper was originally begun with a view to its pub- lication in the issue of the " Educational Iteporter " for Juno, 1886. Its pur- pose was to state what was known about the head-waters of the Mississippi, and briefly to inquire into the validity of the claims of Captain Willard Glazier to having made im|)ortant discoveries and explorations in that region. In common w'th nmny others who have editorial supervision of geographi- cal and educational publications, I had been fi-equently urged to recognize these claims of Captain Oluzier ; but this inquiry soon as^sumed such proportions that 1 contented myself with puljlishing an extraft from Nicollet's report of his explorations in 183(5, together with a brief reference to Captain Glazier. With such a statement of previous exploration, it was ho[)ed that Captain Gla- zier and his friends would somewhat modify or moderate their claims in his be- half. T!»o very opposite has seemed to be the effect, if one may judge correctly from the extracts from the newspaper press which have been sent to me during the past three months. As a result, what was first intended to bo a brief inquiry into the history and progress of exploration at the head-waters of the Mississippi becomes, by force of circumstances, rather the exposure of an attempted fraud which has been al- together too successful for the credit of Americim intelligence and scholarship. Yet it is always fur more agreeable to gather together the scattered data that go to make up the sum of knowledge in any field than simply to break down a reputation for knowledge, however fraudulent that reputation may be ; and so I have taken far greater i)leasure in collecting under one cover the few facts rel- ative to the exploration of the sources of the great river since the white man first sighted Lake Itasca, than in any pillorying of Captain Glazier, however effective that may seem to be. IIenuv D. Uarbower. Nkw York, October, 1886. 2 I'^S't'S a. ^ g £> 5>;J Illlll t I 1 i 'U li t I i Captain Glazier and His Lake. i AccoRDiNO to the latest version of modern burlesque, the Kin<,' of Si)ain once upon a time said to Columbus, " Colum- bus, can you discover America?" To which replied the great Christopher: "Certainly, your majesty, if you will give me a ship." So the king gave him a ship, and he sailed and he sailed until he came in sight of land. Sailing up to the shore, he hailed a chief and asked him, " Is this America?" Whereupon the chief, turning to his band, said : " There is no use of denying it ; we are discovered ; " and, addressing him- self to Columbus, owned up : " Yes, this is America. Who are you?" " I am Columbus." " Why, of course ; I might have known it" Very much the same way, a few years ago Captain Willard Glazier propounded to himself (for he acknowledged no kinglier) thus: "Captain, can you discover Lake Glazier, the true source of the Mississippi liiver?" " Of course I can, if I can have a canoe and a few trusty friends who will go with me into the wilds of Minnesota." So they went forth into the northern wilds; and after a time they came to a lake, and they voted that it was Lake Glazier, and that no white man had ever seen it before, and that Captain Glazier was a great discoverer. And thus he won eternal fame by the unanimous vote of five of his fellow-citizeus, including three " Indians, not taxed," THE GREAT DISCOVERY. Captain Glazier is a gentleman who belonged to the Union volunteer army in the civil war, and there is no reason to doubt that he was a faithful and gallant soldier. Since the war 8 CAPTAIS GLA'/IHH AND HIS LAKE. \w \\\\A boon u nitlier voluiiiiiions writor of war n'ininiMcoiices, ill wliicli Cniilaiii (ila/ier ^'ciiorally li^'iircH an tlio loading' char- uotor uii'l hero, lie lias travoU' rnuti! of the Eli|i« OfKK Kf WAHItlMiTON, I), C. Scale: V" milefl to an inch. Lieutenant Allen, the topographer of the party, drew a map of Itasca Lake from liis own observations an«l tlie reports of the Indian guides; and this map shows a south- ^ern arm much shorter tlian tlio reality, but ending in a nearly circular extension, connected with the main lake by a narrow channel. Fiftli. — Mr. Jean N. Nicollet, a distinguished French scholar and ex})lorer, in July, 1830, S])ent three days cxj)loring the country to the south (^f the south-western arm of Lake Itasca. His map of the Upper Mississip])i country, now deposited in the General Land Oilice, a copy of which was published by the government with his report, is on a very small scale, and does not show any lake corresponding to Elk Lake; but, fortunately, among Nicollet's notes and papers in the olUce of the Chief of Engineers of the United States Army, at "Washington, there lias been found a map of the sources of the Mississippi and Hod Eiver of the North, and this map is on a much larger scale, clearly showing Elk Lake in the very location where the gov- * LAKE ITASCA AND VICINITY. Chipcway Ldke^ 7?raver3 or Enifravod from ft fuculnillo traclnflrof NMcollofB Map (18;k-:!7) now (l<'iN>Hit""'i|», ^JV JV' :« 'k CAPTAiy O LAZIER AND HIS LAKE. 21 • ernment surveyors and Captain Glazier found it. There is no mistaking its identity. It is tliero, even to the three feeders wiiieh Captain Ohizier found.* It is evident, however, that Nieollct rc^farded the hike as of minor importanee, not giving it any sc[)arato name, but rather considering it an extonsiou of the larger lake, Itaseiu Hixth. — In June, 1872, Mr. Julius ChamLera, a staff corre- spondent of the " New York Herald," visited Lake Itasca and explored that lake and its borders. On June 10 he ascended one of the feeders of the south-western arm of the lake. After going a distance which he estimated at about a third of a mile he came to a small lake, a quarter of a mile in width, and, incb^ding a floating bog at its southern end, ])robably a mile or more in length. The land separating this lake froni Lake Itasca he found to be a low tamarack swamp. If the nuip of the government surveyors is correct, this lake found by Mr. Chandlers is no other than Elk Lake. His sketchf of the two lakes is certainly inaccurate in detail, but I think it will satisfy any one that he found the original of " Lake Glazier ; " and it is just what it professes to be, the rough note-book drawing of a canoeist, made from memory after a day's hard paddling and tramping, when a hard way seemed a long way, and an easy pull measured a short distance. Seventh. — In the year 1880 Mr. O. E. Garrison, of St Cloud, Minn., visited the sources of the Mississippi, under joint instruc- tions from the Superintendent of the Tenth Census of the United States and the Director of the Geological Survey of Minnesota. He proceeded from the south across the height of land, a route different from that of either Morriso.i, Schoolcraft, Nicollet, or Chambers. July 29 he encamped on the stream described by Nicollet as the real upper course of the Mississippi ; July 30 he encamped on the south-western shore of Elk Lake ; July 31 he sailed through Elk Lake and into Lake Itasca, and on that night % * A facsimile engraving of a part of this larger map of Nicollet's is given herewith. I do not know that it has ever before been published, or that its existence among Nicollet's papers has been generally known. f Some time after the most of this paper was in type I learned the name and address of the " Herald " correspondent of 1873. Mr. Chambers at once kindly placed his notes at ray service, and a copy of his note-book map is hero reproduced for the first time. See next page. CAPTAIN OLAZIER AND UIS LAKE, 23 and the night Huccccding lio encamped on the west shore of Itasca. Ill all lie spent about two weeks exploring the two townships, Nos. M2 and 143, N., \l 30: an soutii of tliu soiitli- wt'st arm is a little lake callctl Elk Lake. Il has an area of alwiit 200 acres. It is a niilu lon^ and half a niilu wide. It is a tributary of Itasca Lake, lliruiij^h a small creek wliieli connects them. Klk liake has two or tlirco small streams llowin/c iirti) it from the south. The principal stream tribu- tary to Ita.sca Lake, directly, also flows from the south, and is three or fuur miles in length. It irt rather a rctlnement of exactness to call Elk Lake, ctcd with Itasca, and various were the surmises as to the cause of this remarkable ovcrsiglit. ... By far the most probable theoiy, however, was advanced by Captain Glazier, who stated, quoting School- craft himself as authority, that when he reached Itasca he was too much hurried to make a thorough exploration. IIo had an engagement to meet some Indians in council at the mouth of the Crow Wing River, fully seven days' journey from this point, and he did not have more than seven days to do it in. . . . Ho Tievcr saw tlie beautiful lake to the south of Itasca, fed Ijy the springs and streams of the marshes which gave birth to the infant Missis- sippi. "Therefore he could not know that Itasca was but an expansion of the stream, like other lakes, in its onward course, a sudden growth, as it were, which gave promise of the vast proportions the mighty giant would hereafter assume. There woidd be something almost sad in his coming so near and yet missing the mark at which he had aimed, if it were not that ho lived and died in the belief that he was right in the assertion that the Father of Waters rose in the lake which he, oddly enough, named Itasca." Not too fast, Ca})tain Glazier. Mr. Schoolcraft was not a mere superficial adventurer; and he lived down to the year of grace 1864. So it is safe to say he knew all about Mr. Nicollet and the remoter sources of the Mississippi, far more, indeed, than did Captain Glazier, even after his wonderful exploring expedi- tion. This would go without proof, hut the proof is easily to ho had. If Captain Glazier will refer to Mr. Schoolcraft's " Summary Narrative" of his two expeditions to the head-waters of the Mis- sissii)pi,^'' he will find evidence of this in abundance. lie will find reference to Mr. Nicollet in the text and in foot-notes on pages viii., ix., 128, 133, 130, 142, 154, 244, 267, and 328. Further- more, on pages 582-580, Mr. Schoolcraft gives in full the Table of Oeograpliical Positions on the Mississippi BiveVj observed in 1836, by J, N. Nicollet. The last item in this table gives the distance * " Summary Narrative of an Exploratory Plxpcdition to the Source of the Mississippi River, in 1830 : Revised and Completed by the Discover) of its Ori- gin in Itasca Lake, in 1832." By Ilemy It. Schoolcraft. Philadelphia: Lip- pincott, Grambo & Co. 1855. 32 CAPTAm OLAZTER AND HTS LAKE. from Solioolcraft'a Island, in Itasca Lake, to tlio " utmost sources of the Mississippi, at the summit of the Hauteurs do Torre, or dividing-ridge between the Mississippi and tiie lied Kiver of the North," as six miles, and the elevation of these sources as five feet above Lake Itasca. Mr. Schoolcraft's reference to Mr. Nic- ollet shows the most unquestioning confidence in the correct- ness and value of his discoveries. There was no tliought of jealousy or de])rcciation ; just as on the part of Mr. Nicollet there was no thought of claiming any credit above Mr. School- craft and Lieutenant Allen. He was willing " to come after these gentlemen," and to be " permitted to claim some merit for having comi>leted what was wanting for a full geographical account of these sources." And this is exactly the relation between the explorer of 1832 and the one of 1836. The latter simply completed what was wanting of the work of Schoolcraft and his able assistant and topographer, Lieutenant Allen. They had not explored the re- motest springs and ponds that fed Lake Itasca, but there is no doubt of their having a fairly accurate understanding of the loca- tion of these remoter sources of the river, from the reports of their Indian guides. For proof of this I refer to the map of Lake Itasca,* drawn by Lieutenant Allen, in part evidently from data furnished by the Indians, which shows a southern feeder running through a chain of small ponds. The stream appears shorter and the ponds smaller than Mr. Nicollet afterward found them to be, but the map proves that Schoolcraft was not such an extreme object of commiseration as Captain Glazier would have us think. GUYOT AND NICOLLET. Nor had the world entirely forgotten the facts in regard to this matter even before Captain Glazier made his " great dis- covery."' The following passage, from Guyot's f "Introduction " ' ' ■■ '■ " ■' ■ ■ - .- ■■ I . . ly — '''■■■ - — *See " Schoolcraft's Summary Narrative," 185"), p. 243. f There is especial satisfaction in coupling the names of Nicollet and Guyot in this connection. Nicollet was among the first of that considerable number of distinguished foreigners, not Englishmen, who in the maturity of their powers have come to this country, and devoted their lives and fortimes to the prosecution of scientific studies in the broad field furnished by the New World. Humboldt had, perhaps, given the grand impulse in this direction, though he returned to Europe at the end of his researches, and his especial field was L » CAPTAIN OLAZIER AND HIS LAKE. 33 pd to It dis- iction to Geograpliy," pages 12 and 13, was writteu hi 180G, twenty years ago : "Wo find, away in a forest of pine-woods, almost to the north border of our country, a great number of little springs. The hills from which these springs flow are not high, steep, and rocky, like tliose we found among the Appalachian Mountains, but they are low and rounded, and made of sand and clay. The little streams flow from the springs in these hills into a hollow, where they make a vc;y small pond or lake. This little pond is the place where the great Jlississippi begins its journey to the ocean. It is therefore called the source of the Mississippi. From this, the cradle of the ^lit.sissii)pi, flows a little brook so small you could easily leap across it, and not deep enough to prevent your wading through it. "After the little brook has gone a distance of six* miles, it finds another South America. But Nicollet deserves to stand with Humboldt, Guyot, and Agassiz in tlie first rank of scholars and investigators. Such men are cer- tainly entitled to all the honors which they have won in the cause of science. * This is an error of reckoning made by Ouyot in common with other geographers. Nicollet places the utmost sources of the river about six miles from Schoolcraft^s Island, in Lake Itasca, thus making their distance from Itasca Lake three or four miles 8 84 CAPTAIN GLAZIER AND HIS LAKE. I Braall, linsin-shnpod hollow, into which it flows. Four other littlft strcums flow into th(^ saiiio liiiMiii, tiiul their wiitern .spread out tiiiil fill it, uml t'orin a smull and beautiful lake. This inealled Ittikca Lake. It is always eoiusidered as the source of the Mifssissippi, because the little stream that flows into it is so vory snuill that people do not call it the Mississippi." PKTERMANN AND NICOLLET. As a still further ar/d valuable evidenee that the scientific world in general knew of the results of Nicollet's explorations, ■. it is worth while to reproduce (.see p. 38), from the hij^diest Ger- man authority a small inaj) of the sources of the Mississippi. It is a copy on an enlarged scale of a section of a map to be found in Dr. Petcrmann's " Sticler's Hand Atlas," published by Justus Perthes, of the Gotha Institute of Geography. GLAZIER AND NICOLLET. Captain Glazier himself seems to have had a vague idea of such an explorer as Nicollet, but in every case he i)laces him be- fore Schoolcraft in order of mention, and earlier in point of time. This is the way he si)eaks of him • '• Within tho 'ast century several expeditions have attempted to find the primal re.'^ervoir of the great river ; Beltrami, NicoUet, and Schoolcraft have each in turn claimed the goal of their explorations. . . . Schoolcraft ^"wa^ ly located a hike which he named Itasca, as the fountain-head, in 1833, and succeeded in securing for it the recognition of geographers and map-makers." * And again the captain shows his ignorance of Nicollet after this fashion : "To stand at the source ; to look upon tho remotest rills and springs which contribute to the birth of the great river of North America ; to write Unis in the volume opened by the renowned De Soto more than three hundred years ago, and in which Marquette, La Salle, Hennepin, Joliet, Beltrami, Nicollet, and Schoolcraft have successively inscribed their names, was quite enough to revive the drooping spirits of the most depressed." f All this seems very strange in the man who claims to be the last and not the least of the great line of heroes of Mississippi exploration. But I am not inclined to charge this perversion and suppression of history to anything worse than ignorance. *"Am. Meteorological Journal," 1884, p. 176. f " Am. Meteorological Journal," 1884, p. 322. CAPTAIX LAZIER AND HIS LAh'K. GLAZIEU AXD ClIAMHEUS. 85 "While Captain Glazier should certainly have known ver}' def- initely of Mr. Nicollet's explorationn in the region of Lake Itasea before he himself ventured into that field as an ("xplorcr, it is, however, not so surprisiag that he had not heard of the trip of the " Herald's " canoeist correspondent when he himself started for the North. But for the ])ast two years there has been no excuse for his maintaining the claim that no one had been to Elk Lake before him and his party. If he knew notliing of Nicollet's ex- plorations in I80O and nothing of Surveyor Hall's work in 1875, ho must at least have read, in the very paper that published his letter to Judge Daly, the following editorial reference to his pred- ecessor of 1872 : " Unfortunately for him [Captain Gla7-ior], however, this little lake poems to be the very body of water found twelve years ago by a special corres|)C)ndent sent out by the ' Herald ' to find the Mississippi's head waters. In our paper of July (], 1873, we published a letter in whieli our explorer reported tliat after forcing his canoe through a narrow, tortuous stream entering tiie south-western extremity of Lake Itasea, he suddenly entered a lake almost circular iix out- line, to which he gave the name of Dolly Varden." i CHAMBERS AT "LAKE GLAZIER" IN 1872. Yet, lest he may not have taken the trouble to search the columns of the paper, I will reproduce the following from the letter as it originally appeared : " The Dolly Varden was rid of every ounce of extra luggage, all being left with the guide and Indian at the camp near the outlet of Itasca, for the crew was about to start on a voyage in which he might have to carry her cin his head. Everything in readiness, a small bag of hard bread and cold bacon and roast duck on board, the crew pushed out alone on the lake for a thorough circumnavigation of the shore. Under paddlo the canoe coasted down the eastern side to reach the south-east end of the lake. The soundings to tlie first landing-i)lace at an average of 300 feet from shore were 19, IT), 8, and 14 feet. Near the southern point a small stream enters the lake, but does not extend further than l,r)00 feet back along the ridge between the edge of a meadow and a hill of pines. Here it is a tiny rivulet which trickles down from the rocks. The crew is satisfied that it does not flow throughout the year, and that it owes even its present size to the recent storms. . . . "The crew then returned to the canoe and crossed to Schoolcraft Island, finding twelve feet of water about midway. It was not thought best to make a landing at this point, but the shore was followed on the side toward the mainland. The channel which separates the island is not more than bOO feet 8G CAPTAIN OLAZTEIl AND HIS LAKE. in wi(Uh nt the hroatlcHt point. Tho island bonrs tho smno jjononil direction us tiut Itiku, its oxtroniitii'N iicinj; located north-wost and Koulli-caNt. . . . "Crossing' to tim lanmrack forest, wliidi hounds the lake on the southern Hide, it \va8 fouml to be ({uite swampy in piaeun. Althou^di frequent landings were made the eniise eoutinuefj until, ut the Houth-weslmi aii;,'le<)f the lake, a huiall iidet was seen, front which issued a stream of clear water. It iiud cut for ilstlf a channr'l, nltout four feet in depth and Hcarcely more in width, through the thick turf, and delled discoloration by its shiny banks. The heart of the crew beat in wild and hopeful «'Xpectancy, The Dolly was pushed up through this chaiuiel, and after about one-third of a mile of pushing, paildling, and hauling, the stream l)rought the craft to a snwdl, round lake. "The inlet had not been easy of navigation by any means, and growing much shallower after tho first 130 feet, several portages laid l)een made l)y (bagging the boat across thc^ sticks an» nights to nstronotnicttl ol)sorvati(>nfl. Tn con- tniMt witli thi.s it is worth wliile to cull attention to tlio super- fic'iiil, drowsy way in which our modern explorer did his work. To do hiiri full justice I give in his own words (.'aptiiin Cila- zier's account of his movements from the; time that he si^dited liake Itasca, "lietween three and f(Uir o'clock in tluMiftcrnoon " of July 21, until he and his party ([uit Schoolcraft's Island and fitarte(l down the river "at three o'clock iu the ufternuou" of July 22 : * " On turninj? out of n thiokct at tho foot of thn Inst clovation, hctwoon throo nnrl four o'clock in thn afternoon , our lonpinp oyos rested upon tlit» waters of Luke Itasca. A few moments later wo were floating on its placid bosom, and after a pull of between two and three miles reached Sclioolcrai't's Island. Tliia island derives its name from Henry Rowo Seh(K)leraft, who discovered Itasca in 1833, and located it as the source of the Mississippi. "Hitherto the clainj of Schoolcraft has been unquestioned, and for half a century Lake Itasca has enjoyed tho honor of standing at the head of tho Father of Waters. . . . " The exhausting portages of July 21st, between the east and west forks of the Mississi|)pi, prepared us for a sleep which evciu tho Minnesota iiiosiiuitoes could not disturb, and which was not broken until lonfi nfti-r the sun ivot* glint- ing upon UH through the trees on the morning of the twent\j-necnnil. Although I had cauti(med the guides to awaken mo at dawn, 1 found them snoring lustily at six o'clock. "As soon as all were astir Chc-no-wa-gc-sic and tho Lagards prepared break- fast. George struck tents and rolled tho l>lankets, while Paine busied himself with an article for tho St. Paul ' Pioneer-Press,' descriptive of our voyage to Lake Itasca. But little ceremony was observed at breakfast, which was served with a duo regard to our scant rations, and consisted of a small slice of bacon and a ' flap-jack,' each of very meager dimensions. . . . " Fully convinced that the statements of Che-no-wa-ge-sic wore entirely tnist- worthy, and knowing from past experience that he was perfectly reliable as a guide, we pvt our canoes info the tcater at eight o'elork, and at onco began coasting Itasca for its feeders. We found tho outlets of six small streams, two having woU-defined mouths, and four filtering into tho lake through bogs. *' The upper end of the south-wostern arm is heavily margined with rushes and swamp grass, and it was not without considerable difliculty that wo forced our way through this barrier into the larger of tho two open streams which flow into this end of the lake. "Although perfectly familiar with the topography of tho country, and entirely confident that he could lead us to the beautiful lake which he had so often described, Chc-no-wa-go-sic was for some moments greatly disturbed by tho network of rushes in which wo found ourselves temporarily entangled. Leaping from his canoe, he pushed the nishes right and left with his paddle. *This description is to be found in the " Am. Met. Journal," 1884, pages 262, 322, 324, 825, 827. 38 CAPTAIN GLAZIER AND HIS LAKE. i\ i' and soon, to our great delight, threw up his hands and gave a characteristic ' Chippewa yell,' thereby signifying that he had found the object of his soaieli. Keturning, he seized the bow of my canoe, and pulled it after him through the rushes out into the clear, glistening waters of the infant Missis- sippi, which at the point of entering Itasca is seven feet wide and about one foot deep. " Slow and sinuous progress of two hundred yards brought us to a blockade of logs and shallow water. Determined to float in my canoe upon the surface of the lake towards which we were paddling, I directed the guides to remove the obstructions, and continued to urge the canoes rapidly forward, although apposed by a strong and constantly increasing current. Sometimes wo found it necessary to lift the canoes over logs, and occasionally to remove diminutive rfand-bars from the bed of the stream with our paddles. As we neared the head of this primal section of the mighty river we could readily touch both shores with our hands at the same time, while the average depth of water in the channel did not exceed five inch?« " Every paddle stroke seemed to increase the ardor with which we were car- ried forward. The desire to see the actual source of a river so celebrated as the Mississippi, whoso mouth had been reached by La Salle nearly two centuries before, was doubtless a controlling incentive. What had long been sought at last appeared suddenly. On pulling and pushing our way through a network of rushes similar to the one encountered on leaving Itasca, the cheering sight of a transparent body of water burst upon our view. It was a beautiful lake — the source of the Father of Waters. "A few moments later and our little flotilla of three canoes was put in motion, headed for a small promontory which we discerned at the opposite end of the lake. . . . " As we neared the headland a deer was seen standing on the shore, and an eat'le swept over our heads with food for its young, which we soon discovered we " lodged in the top of a tall pine. The water-fowl noticed upon the lake were c;'oj)aiently little disturbed by our presence, and seldom left the surface of the wate.'. " Thi i lake is about a mile and a half in greatest diameter, and would be nearly in ovnl in form but for a single promontory which extends its shores into the lake so as to give it in outline the appearance of a heiirt. Its feeders arc Virec small creeks, two of which enter on the right and left of the head- la' ' , and have their origin in springs at the foot of sand-hilk from ';W0 to th. ' miles distant. The third inlet is but little more than a mile in length, ha;i no clearly defined course, and is the outlet of a small lake situated in a m;a>li to the south-westward. These three creeks were named in the order of th&ir discovery, Elk, Excelsior, and Eagle. " liaving satisfied myself as to its remotest feeders, I called my companions into lii e at the foot of the promontory which overlooks the lake, and talked for a few moments of the Mississippi and its explorers ; told them I was con- fident that we were looking upon the true source of the great river ; that we had completed a work begun by De Soto in 1541, and corrected a geographical error of Laif a century's standing. Concluding my remarks. I requested a vol- ley from their lirearms for each member of the party, in commemoration of our achievement. When the firing ceased, Paine gave r.ie a surprise by step- ping to the front and proposing 'that the newly discovered lake be named CAPTAIN GLAZIER AND UIS LAKE. 89 Lake Glazier, in honor of its discoverer.' The proposition was seconded by Moses Lagard, tiie interpreter, and carried by acclamation." Captain Glazier's biographer in " Sword and Pen " (pages 477, 478) liere takes up the narrative : "Standing then by the source of the mighty river, around which so many beautiful Indian legends cluster, and about which the white man has ever been curious, the cai)tain felt a natural throb of jiridc that so much of his great undertaking had been successfully achieved, and a hope that the future held further good in store for him. " Giving the order for embarkation, the oanoes were soor. gliding across the water, bound for Lake Itasca. Entering this lake, a short stop was made at Schoolcraft's Island in order to obtain the remain ier of their luggage, after which they re-embarked, at three o'clock in the afternoon, and continued the descent of the river." Thus it is shown from liis own account that Captain Glazier spent less than twenty-four hours at Lake Itasca and in its vicinity ; that the first sixteen hours of this brief day he made no attempt at any exploration ; and thnt the time actually em- ployed in finding the inlet of Lake Itasca, exploring its course to " Lake Glazier," returning to Schoolcraft's Island, and getting ready to start down the river for the Gulf of Mexico was only from 8 A.M. till 3 p.m. — seven hours — of the 22d of July, 1881. This, too, included the time occupied with the Captain's stump speech, the flight of the American eagle, and the drawing up of the petition " to the geographical societies " of the universe. Compare this exploit with Nicollet's three days and nights of de- voted scientific research. Contrast the explorer of 1836, waiting seven years, and dying before his report was given to the world, with the adventurer of 1881, drawing up his petition for recog- nition before his actual work of exploration was yet seven hours advanced. of WHAT GLAZIER REALLY DISCOVERED. But. however effectually Captain Glazier's claim to the dis- covery of the true source of the Mississippi may bo disimtecl, no one will question ^ne other claim that may be made in his behalf. Somewhere, somehow. Captain Glazier has discovered a copy of Mr. Schoolcraft's "Narrative of an Expedition to Lake Itasca "■mBHewsaum 40 CAPTAIN GLAZIER AND HIS LAKE. jii in 1882."* And, as in the case of his discovery of "Lake Glazier," he imagined that he was the original and only discov- erer and possessor of that work. Unfortunately for Captain Glazier, there are other copies of that work besides the precious one which he has "discovered." Alongside of one ^f these other copies I desire to place Cap- tain Glazier's account of his " Eecent Discovery of the True Source of the Mississippi," as it appears in the "American Mete- orological Journal " for 1884. Such a comparison will throw still further light on his claim to stand at the head of the long line of heroes of Mississippi exploration, from De Soto to Nicollet. Mr. Schoolcraft and Captain Glazier did not follow the same route to Lake Itasca, but, from the junction of the Naiwa with the East Fork of the Mississippi, to Itasca Lake, their route was the same. Captain Glazier visited Leech Lake on his way to Itasca; Mr. Schoolcraft was at Leech Lake on his return from Itasca. GLAZIER ON THE INDIAN" QUESTION. So, following Captain Glazier's order of procedure, we find the captain in 1881 on the spot where Mr. Schoolcraft had been in 1832, nearly fifty years before. They both found at this lake the headquarters of the Leech Lake, or Pillager, band of Chippewa Indians. Mr. Schoolcraft visited them a^ a time when they had but just come, in any real sense, under the care of the govern- ment. Mr. Schoolcraft was their agent, but his official residence was hundreds of miles away, at the eastern end of Lake Superior, and he had been in the region )nly once before, in 1820 — before, indeed, he was appointed Indian Agent. When Captain Glazier visited Leech Lake, these Indians had been under the care of r,he government for fifty years. They had schools, saw-mills, grist-mills, wheat-fields, domestic animals ; and though they were by no means the most progressive and civilized of the Chip- pewas, they were c ertainly not the untutored savages that Cap- tain Glazier would ijavc "is imagine them to be. But, bearing in mind what even a poor Indian policy can do for a tribe in fifty years, it is very well worth the while to com- • * Published by Harper & Brothers, New York, 1834. CAPTAIN GLAZIER AND HIS LAKE, 41 pare tlie account of Glazier in 1884 with that of Schoolcraft in 1834: "Sehoo! mft's Narrative," 1834, p, 77. " Thl^"bnn(l appears to have (separated themselvv's from the other Chippewas at an early day and to liave taken upon themselves the dutv which Reuben, Gad, and Manasseh assumed when they crossed the Jordan. '' They have ' passed armed before their brV'thren ' in their march west- ward. Tlieir geographical position is one which imposes upon them the de- fense of this portion of the Chippewa fiontior. And it is a defense in which they have distinguished tliemselves as oravc and active warriors. Many acts of intrei)id;i;y are related of them which would be recorded witli admiration had white men been the actors. • • • • • • "With fewer numbers the Chippewas have not hesitated to fall upon their enemies, and have routed them and driven them before them with a valor and resolution which in any period of written warfare would have been stamped as heroic. It is not easy on the part of the government to repress the feelings of hostility which have so long existed, and to convince them that they have lived into an age when milder maxims furnish the basis of wise ac- tion. Pacific counsels fall with little power iipon a people situated so re- motely from every good influence, and who cannot perceive in the restless spirit of their er mies any safeguard for the continuance of a peace, ho'vever for- mally it may have been concluded. This fact was adverted to bv one o' their chiefs, who obsers'ed that they were compelled to fight in self-defense. Al- though the Sioux had made a solemn peace with them at Tipisagi in 1825, they were attacked by tnem that very year and had almost yearly since sus- tained insidious or open attacks." Glazier's Account, "Am. Met. Jour- nal," 1884, pp. 220. 221. " This band seems to have .separated from the other Chippewas at an early day and to iiave taken upon themselves the duty of defending this portion of the Chippewa frontier. "They 'passed ai-med before their biOthren ' in their march westward. Their geographicrj position was one which required them to assume great responsibilities, and in the defense of their chosen position they have distin- guished themselves as brave and active warriors. Many acts of intrepidity are related of them which would be recorded with admiration had white men been the actors. • . • • . • " With fewer numbers the Chippewas have not hesitated to fall tipon their enemies, and have defeated and routed them with a valor and resolution which in any period of written warfare would have been stamped as heroic. It is not easy on the part of the government to repress the reelings of hostility which have so long existed, and to convince them that they have lived into an age when milder maxims furnish the basis of wise action. Pacific counsels fall with little power upon a people situated so remote from every good influence, and who cannot perceive in the restless spirit of their enemies any safeguard for the continuance of a peace, however formally it may have been concluded. The fact was adverted to by one of their chiefs, who observed that they were compelled to fight in self-defense. Al- though the Sioux had made a solemn pe«»ce with them at Tipisagi in 18^5, they were attacked by them that very year and had almost yearly since sus- tained insidious or opeu attacks." GLAZIER AS A PILLAGER. And so Captain Glazier goes on for a page or more, pillaginj the work of Mr. Schoolcraft Can he be so benighted as not to know that fifty years have changed all this; that over twenty years ago the last Sioux was removed from Minnesota, and that half a million settlers and a million acres of wheat farms separate the Pillagers from their old enemies of the plaint*? 42 CAPTAIN GLAZIER AND HIS LAKE. ill Yet Captain Glazier's eulogist in the " Sword and Pen" (pp, 448, 449) gives the above extracts from his private diary "as evidence of a certain power of philosophic reflection and in- ductive reasoning unusual in the mind of one so given to the excitement of an active and enterprising life as was Captain Glazier, who, as soldier, author, and explorer, certainly allowed himself little rest for the quiet abstractions of tlie student." I differ with the eulogist, and submit that the above are very properly termed the "quiet abstractions of a student," and nothing else. These "philosophic reflections" of Captain Glazier then pro- ceed to take a survey of the domestic life and manners of the Pillagers and " all our Northern Indians," their nomadic life, " their want of domesticated animals, and theif general dependence on ivild rice " for subsistence, all of which must read very strangely to those acquainted with the Agency Indians of Minnesota. Then, adverting to their moral condition, these abstractions close as follows : "Schoolcraft's Narrative," 1834, p. 80. "All that related to a system of dances, sacrifices, and ceremonies, which stood in the place of religion, still occupies that position, presenting a subject which is deemed the peculiar labor of evangelists and teachers. Missionaries have been sloiv to avail themselves of this field of labor, and it should not ex- cite surprise that the people themselves are, to so great a degree, mentally the same in 1833 that they were on the arrival of the French on the St. Law- rence in 1533." Glazier's Account, "Am. Met. Jour- nal," 1884, pp. 221, 232. "All that related to a sj-stem of dances, sacrifices, and ceremonies, which stood in the place of religion still occupies tliat position, presenting a subject which is claimed to be the peculiar work of teachers and evangelists. Mis- sionaries have been seen to avail them- selves of this field of labor, and it should not excite surprise that the Chippewa.s are, to so great a degree, mentally the same in 1882 that they were on the ar- rival of the French in 1533." i \ « GLAZIER versus MAJOR rt;ffe. Captain Glazier claims to have gained the above information from Major Euffe, the Indian Agent at Leech Lake. If anything more is needed to show that these philosophic abstractions were at least fifty years behind the times, I would refer to the follow- ing extracts from Major Ruffe's report to the Indian Bureau under date of September 4, 1880 : " The uniform good conduct of the Indians under my charge, their civility toward each other, their generally correct deportment and freedom from indul- gence in those vices peculiar to savages, and from which many civilized com- munities are not exempt, theii* evident desire to imitate what is thought best CAPTAIX GLAZIER AND HIS LAKE. 43 to conduce to their good and to eschew whatever seemed neniicious and evil, has characterized their social and moral habits, and merits most hearty com- mendation. No oilense ot a greater magnitude than a minor misdemeanor has been committed by any Indian within my jurisdiction, and even petty brawls or disorderly conduct have been of rare occurrence. " An increasing interest lias been manifested by the Indians in religious matters, and the efforts of zealous men devoted to their spiritual salvation liavo been rewarded by many proselytes, apparently sincere. , . . The attend- ance upon divine worshii) has increased in a gratifying degree, and the idola- trous practices of the savage have now become obsolete. " There are now 3,500 acres under cultivation, producing this year not less than 98,000 bushels of grain and vegetables, cultivated and harvested almost entirely by Indian labor. . . " The tluur and saw mills upon this reservation arc in good order and con- dition. . . . The mills in the Leech Lake and Red Rivur llesei-vations are old, and unfit to meet the requirements of the respective localities. . " An exposition of the products and industry of the Indians of this reser- vation was held here (at White Earth) last September. ... I think 1 may safely say that few local industrial fairs presented a greater variety of domestic products, of superior workmanship and quality or excellence, than did the exposition of these Indians." )n m ty Id- b- Ist And this is the gentleman whom Captain Glazier credits with the statement that " the Chippewas are to so great a degree mentally the same in 1882 that they were on the arrival of the French in 1532." But as early as the year 1836 to 1839 the Chippewas had im- proved far beyond where Captain Glazier would leave them even now. Here is the evidence of Mr. Nicollet : " The territory of the Chippewas, the exploration of which I had just fin- ished, as well as that of the Sioux, upon which I was entering, had been for many years tranijuil. This is, beyond a doubt, to be attributed to the firmness of the Indian agents, Lieutenant Taliaferro and II. Schoolcraft, in enforcing the Law ' f 1832, prohibiting the introduction of ardent spirits, in whieh efforts they were warmly su{)ported by Colonel Davenport, the commander of Fort Snelling, and Messrs. 11 Sibley and Abm. Aitkin, agents of the American Fur Company. I found tiie same condition of things in 1837, 1833, and 183'.), when the fort was under the command of Major Plympton ; for during those years I continued to explore the vast region occupied by those two great nations. Then it was I bade a last adieu to the unconstrained liberty of the children of the forest, who, it requires no great foresight to anticipate, will soon have to yield to the restraints of civilization." * And Charles Lanman, who visited Leech Lake in 18-10, wrote of the Pillagers : f * " Nicollet's Report," 1843, p. GO. f Lanman's " Adventures iu the Wilderness," vol. i., p. T9. 4i CAPTAIN GLAZIER AND ITIS LAKE. "They aro good hunters, nnd pay more attention to agriculture than any other tribe of the [Chippewa] nation." I do not believe any one will charge Major Ruffe with hav- ing so far traversed his official reports of the year before as to give Captain Glazier any such information as he credits to him. Major Ruffe was not a Pillager. LEECH LAKE. Both Mr. Schoolcraft and Captain Glazier were at Leech Lake, though fifty years apart, and it is not strange that they saw much the same characteristics of that peculiar body of water. Here is the way it looked to each of them : "Schoolcraft's Narrative," 1834, p. 36. " Lopch Lake is one of the most irreg- ular shaped bodies of water that can be conceived of. It is neither charaoter- istically long, spherical, or broad, but rather a combination of curves, . . . peninsulas, and bays, of which noth- ing short of a map can convey an accu- rate idea." Glazier's Account, "Am. Met. Jour- nal," 1884, p. 219. " Leech Lake is one of the most irreg- ularly shaped bodies of water tliat can be conceived of. It is neither charac- teristically long, circular, nor broad, but rather a combination of curves, peninsulas, and bays, of which nothing short of a map can convey an accurate idea." GLAZIER AND FLAT MOUTH. At Leech Lake Mr. Schoolcraft accepted the invitation of " Aish Kibug Ekozh, the ruler of the Pillager band," to break- fast with him. Not to be outdone, Captain Glazier likewise ac- cepted the invitation of " Flat Mouth, the preseut raler of the Pillagers," to dinner. The accounts, when placed side by side, give us a graphic idea of the progress made in the past fifty years : Glazier's Account, "Am. Met. Jour- nal," 1884, pp. 223, 323. " I went to his residence at the ap- Eointed hour, accompanied by my rother. I found him living in a com- fortable log-house of two rooms, well- floored and roofed, with a couple of small glass windows. A plain board table stood in the center of the front room, upon which the dinner was spread. Pine board benches were placed on each side of the table a.id at the ends. We folloiced the example of our host in sitting down. "Five other persons, including his wife, were admitted to the meal. The " Schoolcraft's Narrative," 1834, pp. 80, 81. " I went to his residence at the proper time, accompanied by Mr. Johnson. I found him living in a comfortable log- building of two rooms, well-floored and roofed, with a couple of small glass win- dows. A mat was spread upon the cen- ter of the floor, ivhich contained the hreakfi -., Other mats were spread around it to sit on. We followed his example in sitting down after the East- ern manner. "There was no other person admitted to the meal but his wife, who sat near 1 CAPTAIN GLAZIER AND HIS LAKE. 45 him, and poured out the ton, but ate or drank notliinj? herself. Teacups and teaspoons, plates, knives and forks of plain manufacture, were carefully ar- ranged, and the number corresponding exactly with the ex[)e('ted guests. A white-lish, cut up and broiled in good taste, oceunied a dish in the center, from which ho helped u?. A salt-cellar, in which pepper and salt were mixed in une(jual proportions, allowed each the privilege of seasoning his fish with both or neither. Our tea was sweetened with the native sugar, and the dish of hard bread seemed to have been pre- cisely wanted to make out the repast." wife of Flat Mouth sat near him and poured out the tea, but ate or dnink nothing liorself. Teacups and teaspoons of plain manufacture were carefully arranged, the number corresponding exactly with the expected guests. A fine mess of bass and white-lish, cut up and boiled in good taste, occupied a dish in the center of the table, from which he helped us. A birch bark salt- cellar, in which pepper and salt were mixed in unequal pro{)ortion, allowed each the privilege of seasoning his fish with both or either. Our tea was sweetened with the native sugar. A dish of blue-berries picked on the shore of the lake completed the dinner." Unfortunately, however, here again Mr. Nicollet comes in to the confusion of Captain Glazier, for in 1836 Mr. Nicollet en- joyed the hospitality of Esh Kebog Ikoj ; and he found the amen- ities of social life on a much more liberal scale than did Mr. Schoolcraft in 1832. Nicollet says : " During three successive evenings I went to take tea with Esh Kebog Ikoj, and drank it out of fine china-ware. . , . I need scarcely add, that these three long evenings spent with Esh Kebog ikoj were full of instruction." * It is not fair, however, to interrupt Captain Glazier in the midst of this banquet ; and so, with an apology for the unwel- come intrusion of Nicollet, the description proceeds as follows : •' Schoolcraft's Narrative," 1834, p. 81. "During the repast the room became filled with Indians, apparently the rela- tives and intimate friends of the chief, who seated themselves orderly and si- lently around the room. When we arose, the chief assumed the oratorical Lttitude, and addressed himself to me. " lie expressed regret that I had not been able to visit them the year before, when I was expected. He hoped I had now come, as I came by surprise, to re- main some days with them." Glazier's Account, " Am. Met. Jour- nal," 1884, p. 233. "During the repast the room became filled with Indians, apparently the rela- tives and intimate friends of Flat Mouth, who seated themselves orderly and silently around. When we arose, ^^■hite Cloud assumed the oratorical attitude, and addressed himself to me. " He expressed regret that his white brethren had been so long in ignorance of the source of the Mississippi. . . . He hoped I had come thoroughly pre- Eared to explore the country beyond lake Itasca." Equally refreshing and instructive is the following compari- * " Nicollet's Report," 1843, p. 62. « 40 CAPTAIN OLAZIER AND HIS LAKE. son of the character of A'sh Kibiig Ekozh, in 1832, with that of White Cloud in 1881 : " Schoolcraft's Narrative,"' 1834, pp. 81, m. "This chief [Aish Kibng Ekozh], hroupht mo ii letter some years ajjo, at St. Mary's, in which he is spoken of as 'the most respectable man in the Chip- pewa country.' And if tho term was applied to his mental qualities, and the power of drawing just conclusions from known premises, and the elfects which these have had on his standing and in- fluence with his own band, it is not misapplied. Shrewdness and quickness most of tiio chiefs possess, but there is more of the character of common sense and practical reflection in GuoUe Plat's remarks than, with a very extensive ac(piaintanco, I recollect to have no- ticed in most of tho chiefs now living of this tribe. " He is both a warrior and a counselr«r, and these distinctions he holds, not from any hereditary right, but from the foi'ce of his own character. I found him ready to converse on the topics of most interest to him, and the sentiments he uttered . were such as would occur to a mind which had possessed itself of facts, and was capable of reasoning from them. His manners were grave and dignified, and his oratory such as to render him popular with his tribe." Glnzier's Afcount, " Am, Met. Jour- nal," 1884, p. 233. ' ' I was much gratified on this occasion by the presence of White Cloud, whom I had frequently been told was the most respectable man in the Chippewa coun- try, and if the term was applied to his intellectual qualities, and the power of drawing just conclusions frou) known premises, and the effects which these nave had on his standing an>(liS ^^'f'^ Windib, lod tht* way, carrying one of tfio canooH as \m \n\,Tt of tno burden. Tiio othcrH followed, some bearing canoes and otIierH bag- Sagc. The wiiolo party were in Indian le and marched ranidlv a distance, then jmt down tlieir nuruen a few mo- ments and again pressed forward. Each of these stops is denominated Opuyid- jiumnon, or, a phice of putting down the burden by i\w Indians. Thirteen of these rests are deemed the length of the portage. The path is rather blind, and requires the precision of an Indian eye to detect it. Even the guide was sometimes at a loss and went forward to exf)lore. We passed a small lake, occupying a vale about midway of the portage, in canoes. The route'beyond It V7as more obstructed with underbrush. To avoid this we waded through the margins of a couple of ponds near which we oljserved old camp-poles, indicating former journeys by the Indians." my led the In- the ca- Olatier'a Aeeount, " Am. Met. Jour nal," 1884, p. ii61. " In crossing this highland dian guide, Che-no-wa-gcsic, way, canning, as usual, one of noes as his part of the burden. The oth- ers followed in Indian flh*, each bearing a canoe or its equivalent in luggage. As soon as all were on the trail we moved rapidly forward, halting occasionally for rest. The (."hippewas denominate each of these 8tf)ps opui/idjnrunon, or, a place of putting down the burden. Thirteen of these rests were given by t!ho-no-wa-ge-sic as the leiigtli of the nortnge. The trail is often obscured ny a dense undergrowth, and requires the precision of an Indian eye to detect it. Even the guide was sonu'times dis- concerted and went forward to explore. About midway of the iH)rtago we came to a small lake, into which we quickly put our canoes and pulled for tlio op- posite shore. The route beyond was mure obstructed by underbrush. To avoid this we waded through the mar- gins of a couple of ponds near which we observed old camp-poles, indicating former journeys by the Indians." And now Captain Glazier, as if loath to leave this interesting region, regales his scientific readers in the " Meteorological Jour- nal" with learned observations on the meteorology, zoology, and botany of this portage : "Schoolcraft's Narrative," 1834, p. 64. "The weather was warm and not fa- vorable to much activity in bird or beast. VVe saw one or two species of the falco and the common pigeon, which extends its migrations over the continent. Tracks of deer were nu- merous, but, traveling without the pre- caution required in hunting, we nad no opportunity of seeing this animal on high grounds. . . . Ripe straw- berries were brought to me by the men at one of the resting-places. I observed a very diminutive species of raspberry, with frnit, on the moist grounds. Bot- anists would probably deem the plants few, and destitute of much interest." Glazier's Account, "Am. Met. Jour- nal." 1884, pp. 261. 203. "The weather was much warmer than I had anticipated for this elevated re- gion, and not favorable to much activ- ity in bird or beast. Several flocks of pigeons and other birds common to northern latitudes were frequently ob- served. Tracks of deer were numerous in the marshes skirting the ponds, but, traveling without the precautions re- quired in hunting, we had no oppor- tunity of seeing this animal in the high grounds. Ripe strawberries were found on the hillsides, and a very small species of raspberry with fruit was brought to me by Che-no-wa-ge-sic at one of the resting-places. The students of botany would consider the plants few, and of little consequence." % 1 ! 1(1 CAPTAIN GLAZIER AND HIS LAKE. 51 Thus, tread inpf in tlx! very track and footprints of frroat- nesM, Captain lazier reaches Lak'o Itasea. On the next day lio paddles in liis canoe u short distance up one of the feeders of Itasca and discovers " Lake Glazier." This is the way it hap- pencil : " Schoolcraft's Narrative," 1834, pp. OS. 6(3. " Evory ptcp . . . scpinod to in- crcaso th« ardor with which we woro curried forward. The dcsiix' of reach- ini{ tlic actual source r)f a slrouin so celebrated us the Misnissippi — a Btruam which \av Salle hud reaclu«i the mouth of a century and u halt (lacking; a jonr) befr)re — was perhaps predominant, and wo followed our f^uides down tliu sides of our last elevation with the expecta- tion of momentarily reachincf the >;oal of our journey. VVhat had been loiij; soujrht at last appeared suddenly. On turning out of a thicket into a small weedy opening, the cheerinLr ^i^'ht of a transparent body of water b ist on our view. It was Itascu Lake, the source of the Mississippi. " Olazifr'/i Arrnunt, "Am. Met. Jour- nal," 1884. pp. 324, 325. " Every paddlo stroke seemed to in. erea.se the ardor with which we wero carried forward. The desire to bee tho actual source of a river so celebrated as the Mississippi, whose mouth had b(>en reachoil by l.a Salle nearly two centuries before, was doubtless th(! controlling^ incentive. . . What had lonjf been sou,'.,'ht at last appeared suddenly. On pullinc; and pushing our way through a network of rushes similar tu the one encountered on leaving,' Itasca, the cheering sight of a transparent body of water burst upon our view. 1 1 wivs a beautiful lake — tho aourco of tho Father of Waters." This outburst of enthusiasm lasts but a moment, and the gallant captain again becomes the ])hilos(>pher and scientist: "Schoolcraft's Narrative," 1834, p. 68. "The height of this lake (Itasna) above tho sou is an object of geographi- cal interest, which, in the absence of actual survey, it nuiy subserve the purposes of useful iiKjuiry to estimate. From notes taken on the ascent it can- not be short of 100 feet above f!ass Lake. Adding tho estimate of 1,830 feet submitted in 1820 as the elevation of that lake, the Mississippi majr be considered to originate at an altitude of 1,490, sjiy 1,500, feet above the At- lantic. Its length, assuming former data as the basis and computing it through the Itascan or west fork, may be placed at 3,160 miles." Glazier's Acrount, "Am. Met. Jour- nal," 1884, p. 3?]7. "Its (Lake Glazier's) height above tho sea is an obiectof geographical interest, which, in the absence of actual survey, it may subserve tho purposes of useful inquiry to estimate. From notes taken during the ascent it cannot Ihj less than three feet above Lake Itasca. Adding the estimate of 1,575 feet, submitted by Schoolcraft in 1832 as the ehfvation o£ that lake, tho Mississippi may be said to originate in an altitude of 1,578 feet above the Atlantic Ocean. Its length, taking iVjrraer data as the basis, and computing through the western fork, may be placed at 3,184 miles." And finally Captain Glazier takes leave of his readers of the "Meteorological Journal" with a philosophic piece of reasoning, which he thought to be so fine that he also incorporates it into his letter to the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society. Accounting for the fact that ilie source of the Mississippi had not before been discovered, he says : 62 CAPTAm GLAZIER AND HIS LAKE. "Schoolcraft's Narrative," 1834, p. 59. " Its origin in the remote and unfre- quented area of country between Leech Lake and Red River, probably an en- tire degree of latitude south of Turtle Lake, which still figures on some of our maps as its source, throws both the forks of this stream out of the usual route of the fur trade, and furnishes, perhaps, the best reason why its actual so'.'rces have so long remained envel- optd in obscurity." Glazier's Account, " Am. Met. Jour- nal," 1884, p. 337. " Its origin in the remote and unfre- quented region of countiy between Leech Lake and Red River, not less than an entire '^cgree of latitude south of Turtle Lake^ which was for many years regarded as che source, throws both forks of the stream out o' the usual route of the fur traders, and furnishes the best reason, perhaps, why its foun- tain-head has remained so long onvel- oped in obscurity." A FINAL " ABSTRACTION." ! ; ! *! Then, as an " addendum " to his 3torj of exploration, the Captain gives a " Summary of meteorological observations at the head-waters of the Mississippi," in which he records the state of the thermometer several times daily, and notes the condition of the sky, the direction a^d character of winds, etc., from July 17, to August 2, inclusive. It is interesting to compire these obser- vations with those taken by Schoolcraft at Big Sandy Lake, and on the trip down the river from that laKe to St Peter. The orig- inal record is to be found in two tables on pages 268 and Sl-l (if Schoolcraft's " Nari-ative of an J^xpedition to the Sources of '1.3 Mississippi in 1820," published in Albany, N. Y., in 1821 ; and these tables are condensed into one and appear in the form in which Glazier appropriates the; i, on page 423 of Schoolcraft's " Summary Narrative," published in 1855. The tables of School- craft and Glazier are identical in every essential parti 3ular. The observations begin and end at the same day and hour. And why does Captain Glazier close his observations at 7 A.M. on the 2d of August, 1881? Because, just sixty-one years before, namely, on the 2d day of August, 1820, Mr. Schoolcraft, in at- tempting to take his usual observation at 2 o'clock P.M., broke his instrument, and therefore had to suspend his regular record of temperature for that day and for the balance of the journey. Such is the far-reaching influence of a seemingly trivial and unimportant circumstance ! The two tables are to be seen together on the following page. •^^uch is 'he case which Captain Glazier makes out against himself. If it throws discredit upon his whole story, and leaves the reader in doubt, whether, indeed, he ever saw Lake Itasca, he has no one save himself to blame. CAPTAIN GLAZIER AND HIS LAKE. [From " Schoolcraft's Summary Narrative," p. 423.] Observations on the Sources of th^. Mississippi River, 53 ^ » ik » ^ n < ■«! < h h p^ BEMAUK8. o I- 00 76 80° CO 79' C5 78° July 17 Morning rainy, then fair. " 18 51° 64 66 53 50 Fair. " 19 46 63 70 55 Night rainy, morning cloudy, then fair. " 20 60 80 84 75 " 21 68 86 88 85 74 " 22 73 88 90 77 Cloudy, some thunder. " 23 70 82 88 78 Night and morning rain, after- noon thunder. " 24 74 87 80 78 Fair. •' 25 85 74 Fair. " 26 61" 81 61 Morning fair, evening cloudy and rain, clear. «' 27 02 80 75 Morning fair, evening fair. " 28 63 76 61 Morning fair.rain inafternoon. " 29 50 74 52 Clear. " 30 60' 76 63 Wind N.W., weather nlear. " 31 65 81 69 Wind W., weather cletir. Aug. 1 , , 67 83 70 Fair. " 2 72 * Fair. • Broke instrument. [From Glazier's Account, " Am. Met Journal," 1884, p. 328.] Meteorological Observations at the Head-waters of the Mississippi. ^ K a H s s < < •< p< p< Ph KEMARK8. lO l- 00 76° 80° 00 79° 78° July 17 Morning rainy, then fair. " 18 51° 64 66 53 50 Fair. " 19 46 63 70 55 Night rainy, morning cloudy, then fair. " 20 60 80 84 75 " 21 68 86 88 85 74 " 22 73 88 90 77 Cloudy, some thunder. " 23 70 83 88 78 Night and morning rain, after- noon thunder. " 24 74 87 80 78 Fair. " 25 85 74 Fair. " 26 61° 81 01 Morning fair, evening cloudy and rain, clear. " 27 62 80 75 Morning fair, evening fair. " 28 62 76 61 Morning fair,rain inafternoon. " 29 50 74 53 Clear. •' 30 60° 7(5 63 Wind N.W., weather clear. " 31 ■a5 81 69 Wind W., weather clear. Aug. 1 , , 67 83 70 , , Fair. " 2 72 Fair. 54 CAPl^dN GLAZIER AND HIS LAKE. ':% WHAT GLAZIER MIGHT HAVE DONE. There is sufficient reason, however, to believe that Captain Glazier went to Lake Itasca and Elk Lake very much in the way and by the route he describes in his papers in the " Meteorological Journal," and certainly the projecting and carrying out of such a trip is, upon its face, highly creditable to any man. But it is not creditable to a professed explorer that he should be so utterly ignorant as was Captain Glazier, of the very simplest facts re- garding the geography of the country he attempts to explore. Captain Glazier should have fully informed himself regarding the work of Nicollet. Instead, he seems to have only the very vaguest notion of such a character. He should have sought the help of the records in the Land Department at Washington. He evidently was not aware that there was such a department of the government. He should have consulted the Topographical or Engineers* Bureau of the United States Army, where Nicollet's papers and note-books are deposited. Perhaps he did not know there was any such thing as a United States Army left after he resigned his commission. At St. Paul he should have availed himself of the resources of the State Geological and Natural History Survey ; then, and for a year or two before, in active study of the very region for which he was bound. There, also, he should have consulted the officers, the library, and the valuable collection of papers of the Minnesota State His- torical Society. At St. Paul and Minneapolis he would have found a number of intelligent and courteous gentlemen in the Land Department of the Northern Pacific Eailroad, who could have given him many hints as to what was known and what was to be discov- ered about the sources of the Mississippi. The Register of the United States Land Office at St. Paul would have shown him the official plats of all the surveyed townships in the Itascan region, if he had but asked the privi- lege of consulting them. Finally, he might have found the men who spent four weeks in September and October, 1875, making the government survey of the two townships which contain all the feeders of Elk Lake ' CAPTAIN GLAZIER AND HIS LAKE. 65 and Lake Itasca ; niid they would gladly have aided him with practical suggestions as to what to look for and where to find it. All these sources of information are freely and cordially at the service of any intelligent explorer; and Captain Glazier would have gained a much larger opinion of the general intelli- gence of the American people if he had taken pains to find out how much is really known about the head-waters of the Missis- sippi, though his conceit of his own knowledge and importance might have suffered correspondingly. And after such intelligent study of the problem, he would have found that there were still questions worthy the labors of a competent and properly equipped explorer. To the solution of these questions he should have addressed himself if he wished to add anything to the stock of knowledge concerning the great watershed of the height of land, and the drainage basin of Lake Itasca, This much is certain, that to see Elk Lake and Lake Itasca was not enough to compensate for the expense and trouble of going to the head-waters of the Mississippi. THE REAL FXPLORATION OF THE ITASCA BASIN. It is impossible to say how many exploring parties of white men had been to both those lakes before Captain Glazier, but there were, probably, a dozen or a score, at the least. They each could tell much of interest regarding that region, but it is safe to say that only two have added anything material to what School- craft told the world in 1832. These two are the Nicollet Expe- dition of 1836, and the Land Department Surveyors of 1875. And we cannot too carefully note the different ways of working of these two explorations. Nicollet was a trained scientist, but he worked under limita- tions, and very sensibly, also, with a limited and definite pur- pose. His work -w. s mainly done alone, and his chief instru- ments were the thermometer, the barometer, the sextant, and the compass. Hence he gives us details of temperature, elevation, latitude, longitude, and the general direction of the parts he vis- ited. He rarely used the chain, if, indeed, he carried such a piece of property. His details of distance were either estimated — as in the case of a day's tramp or an object within sight — or figured out by mathematical rules, as when he computed the length of a 56 CAPTAIN GLAZIER AND HIS LAKE. ' 1 i:l. section of the river from the data of the latitude, longitude, and direction from each other of a given number of points in its course. Hence Ins outline of the course of a river or creek, or of the form of a lake or pond, was only as accurate as might be expected from a trained explorer, whose eye was accustomed to take in and measure distance, direction, and form, on a large scale, and under a thousand varying conditions. In the matter of general relict form.-?, and the general trend and drainage of the country, ho was, without doubt, the best equipped and most competent single explorer who has undertaken the study of our country ; and his work has been of inestimable value to hun- dreds of thousands who never heard of his name. So far as re- lates to the subdivision of areas, and the surveying and platting of the surface of the land, considered as a horizontal plane, his work did not profess to have any accuracy or value whatever. On the other hand, this last is the chief, if not the only, object of the Government Land Surveyors. Their instructions are lim- ited and specific. They take no note whatever of relief forms, they follow up and trace only the streams and ponds intercepted by the boundary-lines of sections. In the matter of horizontal area, in the meandering of lakes and navigable streams, and in the general platting of the land, they are proverbially reliable ; but there is absolutely no account taken of elevation, and the drain- age or trend of the land can only be inferred lom the course and direction of the streams encountered in running the section lines. Nicollet's exploration was made in 1836, before a surveyor's stake had been set within the limits of Minnesota. The Gov- ernment Surveyors of 1875 perhaps never heard of Nicollet, and certainly had no thought of supplementing or verifying his work. WHAT REMAINS TO BE DONE. In general, therefore, the best sort of work that can be done by the explorer of to-day is to reconcile and adjust these two sets of data to each other. And, as applied to the head- waters of the Mississippi, the main thing to do is to determine and locate the exact water-shed which separates the Itasca basin from the sources of the Red River of the North on the one hand, and from the head-springs of tributaries of the Mississippi on the other. 1 CAPTAIN GLAZIER AND UIS LAKE. 57 f Having definitely outlined the drainage basin to tlie soiitb of Itasca, it is worth while to trace the principal feeders of the lake to their springs, to determine the area drained by each, the volume of their flow, and the rapidity of their currents, to meas- ure the elevation of their extreme sources above the level of Lake Itasca, and to find how far they are perennial, and how much of their course is dry during a portion of the year. Investigation will also show what changes have occurred in the amount of nat- ural water-supply in this region ; what alterations in the levels and dimensions of lakes and ponds have been occasioned by the choiring up of their inlets or outlets by natural causes, or by the operation of beavers and other animals ; and whether any of the lakes or marshes are drained at any time by both the Mississippi and the Red River of the North. It will not take long, also, for an intelligent explorer to satisfy himself whether, at any time, Elk Lake and Itasca Lake were a continuous body of water con- nected by a broad channel. These are some of the questions to which the future explorer should address himself, and such questions arc the only ones whose investigation will justify any one in considering himself an explorer, or his work entitled to the consideration of geog- raphers and geographical societies. It is, at the same time, safe to venture the prediction that the more thorough the investiga- tion of the Itasca basin, the clearer will be the conclusion that Lake Itasca is the first considerable gathering-place of the great flood of waters which goes to make up the Mississippi River ; that Nicollet's rivulet, with its chain of three lakes, is, indeed, its most important feeder and principal tributary, and that it is still entitled to be called, as heretofore, the head and source of that mighty stream — Captain Glazier and his lake to the contrary notwithstanding. FINALLY. Already the settler is taking up land and felling timber on the shores of Lake Itasca ; and with the clearing of the forests, and the systematic drainage and cultivation of farms, the smaller streams and ponds will dry up and disa})pear, while other lakes and creeks will cease to have the importance that they may now possess. These changes, however, cannot affect the shape and conformation of the basin of Lake Itasca, or the location of the !■ 58 CAPTAIN GLAZIER AND HIS LAKE. water-shed of the heights of land. There are certain elements in the regioiA that are permanent, and certain others that are tem- porary and will soon undergo the changes which accompany the settlement and subjection of the wilderness. The Lake Itasca of Schoolcraft and Nicollet, in the main, survives to the present day. A few years more will see many of its features changed past recognition. This, then, is an especially fitting time to supplement the work of Nicollet and the Government Surveyors, by a careful examination of the Itascan basin in the light of all previous ex- plorations. If it is worth doing, it should not long be delayed ; and that it is well worth doing, the interest of the public already enlisted in this discussion clearly proves. Further, the fact that a mere superficial charlatan has been able to lead astray and bo- fog the press and the scientific bodies of almost the entire coun- try. East and West, is no small proof that it is desirable to settle all the questijons at issue. The publishers of this paper, Messrs. Ivison, Blakeman, Tay- lor & Co., have taken this view of the case ; and, ever since the first issue was raised with Captain Glazier, they have been satis- fied that nothing short of a thorough exploration of the region in question would satisfy them, as educational publishers, or justify them in making any changes in their geographical text- books. They have, therefore, authorized the equipment and dispatch of a competent exploring party to Lake Itasca ; and, while I write this paragraph, the party is already on the ground with adequate force, and fully equipped with instruments for the complete survey and delineation of the region which supplies the chief feeders of Lake Itasca. 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