..^... IMAGE EVAUJATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) Z 1.0 I.I 1.25 UiUl 12.5 IM 11112.0 1.8 U ill 1.6 III V] ^J / > > /A W^W '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST M^'N 'AVk^^ WEBSTER, M... MSSOi (7i6)e72-«'.f;."« \ ^^ A SJ \\ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institu* Canadian da microreproductions historiquas Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographlques The institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checlced below. D D D D D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagie Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurie et/ou pellicul6e I I Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque j I Coloured maps/ Cartes giographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Reiid avec d'autres documents r~71 Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ Lareliure serrie peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge intArieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutAes lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela Atait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 fiimies. 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Un des symboles suivants apparaltra sur la dernlAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols -^ signifle "A SUIVRE". le symbols V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, cherts, stc, msy be filmed et different reduction ratios. Those too i^irge to be entirely included in one exposure ere filmed beginning In the upper left hand corm ir, left to right end top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diegrams illutitrate the method: Les certes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmAs A des taux da rAductlon diff Arents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un saui clichA, 11 est fllmA A partir de I'angia supArisur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de heut en bas, en prenant ie nombre d'imagas nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrant la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 p^»ip SEtE( mmmi^ssas^ THE WORLD : OR, THE ^vmnt ^tate of t^t mntnmt. BEING A General and Complete Collection OF MODERN VOYAGES AND 'TRAVELS. Bv CAVENDISH PELHAM, Esg. EMBELUIHED WltK CfWAHDI or ONE HUNDRED AND THIRTY =d£4 THE WORLD WAS A^L BEFORE THFM. MILTOX. VOL. II. JLotitiott: WWTM. n W.nRATPORD, MOWK^OURT, TEMPLE-BAR, ro„ J. STRATFORD, No. 112, HOLBORN-HILU 180S r \ I \^A J-l XJ V ¥ .lani^ifli ic!t IS i)i>j# )rr:iS3i6f rro.[)3\)ll<)!J f^MqrnoDbriB !£io(]:>D /'• ■■{■ p rrr\j ^: CF' (M/:.. ojIOAYOV /' ) * U'i:aiW» a. .'^ ( SS^"ir t'MS^IICf '"V--*l*iu.,; ,. / "■J- .' ^.^ .'i- SUBSCRIBERS TO PELHAM'S WORLD. *■■ '.-/.■/ His Royal Highness the Duke of Clarence Her Royal Highness the Princess Mary Lord Joiin Campbell Right Hon. Lord Rendleshain Right Hon. Lord Newboroiigh - *' Lord Charles Bentinct His Excellency the Portugeusfe Envoy Admiral Hervey , Lord Cochrane ' i Admiral Bertie Right Hon. Lord Hood ; Aclmiral Martin Admiral Sir Samuel .Hoo(^ Admiral Otway A. •Sir JOHN AUBREY, R.irt. Capt'. Ailyer, Royal Navy C'apt. Rol)crt Andrews, Harwich J, Aldridgc, Esq. Croiiitbrd-place James Sumiiel Atkins, Es<|. Newiiigton 'Pym Attwood, Esq. Koyui Navy Mr. Moses Aljiaiiams, Sliei-rncss ■ — Abrey, Spiingtield, Essex -^ William /iiulrews, Great Wild-street — William Aliens, Newtaktleou'ryne — Alcock, Red Linn-square — Atkinson, Uennet-row — Attias, I'avement, Moorfields Mrs. Apgel, Newington, Sarry t;!-- B. Capt. Barker, Royal Navy • Caut. Brisliane, RoyaVNa'vy I, S. Barlow, Ks(|. Lot'ge .«ii.i Henry Baxter, Esq. 'I'OmpIc — - Biowi^ Esq. Golden-lane Brewery Mr. Rail, Farm-street Bfrkley-square — T. Bankes, Siitlon — Raker, Wood-slreet — James Barr, Govan — Barrow, Davies-strect, Berkley-square — John Hataiile, Peter-street, Bishopgate — Balterslcy, hftocklort ' — Bcasfey, Loi'ip Acre — Samnel Beaufoy, Berniondsey — Bedford, Mount-street — Benjamin Belcher, Royal Marines — John Benn, Upper East Sniilhfield — C Bennet, 'I urr.-Lee. \,< »■ <-< — Ijentley, C ho ley — Benton, Leaden liall-streft -- Benyon, Lamb^s Condiiil-street — VVilliam Berridge, Halton Garden — William Berry, Manchester — John Betts, Chi;rchrow, St. John's — Bird, Camden lown ■ — Bishop, Woodsloc|L-street — William Black, HowerUe luce-court Vol. U. No. 130. Mr. John Blackwell, Field-terrace — BInndell, Coram-place — Booth, Marple — Boston, Down-street — Boston, Brook-street, New-road - Boutiville, PetBr-street — Charles Bowers, Somers Town — Boys, Nortli-slreet -^ Brown, Bethnal-green — Brown, JSines-street, IjOng Acre — 'r. Brufton, Burton — Muckee, Blee(ling-hart-yi)rd -- Buckee, jnn. Bleeding-hart-yard — Jaines Butler, Sairton-;ilrcet — Samuel Buxton, Stoke Capt. Chambri-s, Roval Navy - ' Capt. Cani|)!)L'll, Kirk-h.dl Thomas Caldwall, Esti. .Nialdou William Campbell, Esq. (^i)an H. Cafiipion, Estp Portsmouth Sanmel Card, Esq. Syiiii)nds-iiia George H.^Caventlish, lisq, ., , Isaac Chalmer, Esq. Liverpool John Cunninglum, bfii. Craigendsi Mr. John Capcncf, jun. Knightsbridge — William Carey — Bagnall Cartenler, Biackheath — Thomas Carter, Thornbury — Williaui Charles, Cock-lane — Benjamin Chester, \\ are — Clark, Bernard-street, Brunswick-square — Thomas Cl.uke, Red-cross-sirect — Clegg, Rochdale — Thomas Collins, Whistlers-court — Collins, Charles-street, Hampslead-road — J Compion, Fenciuirch-itruel — D.Cooper, Tinlwislle V., . .• -'■ , • — 'Cooper, Glossop . i • *f " -• I — Cox, Sutton-street, Southwark — Crane, Kirby-street — Crumble, ' Pritst-alley •^ John Cunniugltiun » A Mr. Jeremiah Cunningliam. King-atretfc. — John Curtis, College-street -•V-':. Miss Cowderoy, Hatcliff *., ' , Capt, George Davies, HuH (!apt. On^nmond, Royal Navy Ootlore Inm.cen/.o dellii Lena, [,ucche-green — Fox, SafTron-hill — William Freestone, Tolworth Mts. Fletcher, Magnay -place, Hoxton Colonel Graham, Inverary Capt. Jami-s Goddard, Cork Capt. Gordon, Royal Navy Dr. Garlic, \liddleton Abraham Gell, F.sq. Baltimore James Gilchrist, Esq. — — Goldsniid, Esq. Great Alie-strcet W. C. C. Graham, Iwq. Gartmore Leonard Gritnths, Esq. Llandovry Mr. Gardiner, Chiswell-street — William Garlic, Waler-sitle — Joseph Gascuigne, Leadeiihall-street — Geraditch, Great Castle-street — Gladstone, Dock-street — Edward Glover, Bow-strwt, niooms- bury — Gfoyd, St. Andrew's-street — William Gold, Portsoa — John Goodman, Limehouss — Matthew Goiigli — Gould, Cheneys-street — A niinial Griffiths Wednesbury — William Grint, Wych-street — William Groom, jun. Knightsbridge — Ricjiard Gulliver Rev. Dr. Hirschell, Bury-ttreet Capt. Harford, Royal ^Javy ••*■■ Capt. D. Flalton, Yarmouth Francis Halsted, Esq. New-roa«l T. Harrington, Esq. Bristol John Paterson Hart, F>sq. Pope's-head-alley Hurle, Gent. Devonshire-street Mr. E. Hackney, Stockport — William Ilailfii-ld, Manchester — Joseph Hale, Blandford-slreet — Samuel Hall, Nottingham — • George Halvcy, Nottingham — Goorge Harris — Samuel Harrison, Battle- bridge — James Hartness, Tothill-street — Matthew Harvey, Calmer — Harvey,^ Houndsditch — William Hatherton, Manchester — Cliarles Hatton, Manchester - . SUBSCttinERfi. NAMES. Mr. Hatton, Fleet-market — William Hawyes, Hill-street — Richard Hayes, Manchester — Thomas Haynes, Paddinaton — i David Henry, Paisley, North Britain — Kdmuml Hepple, Bank, Moiiputli — Hewit, Doncaster — M. Hey, Somerset-street — D. Hiatt, Shiplake, Oxou — Hine, Charles-street — Hill, Farm-street, Berkley-square — Holmes, St. James's-walk, Clerkeuwell — R. Hopkins, Chapel-place — Hou'^, 'foken-house-yard — lioward, Fann-srtreet — John Howell, Birmingham — Hughe?, Piinlico — Jolm Hughits, St. Pancras — Hunt, lulifax-street — George W. Hunt, Little.-Halifax-street — William Hussey, Glasgow — George Hutchinson, Kingsand — James Hutchinson, Paisley — Robert Huxley, Crooked-lan« Miss Halliwell, Long acre I&J. Capt. Ingleficld, Royal Navy C'Uuuhus Jameson, Ks<|. Brighton — Israel, E.sq. Great Prescott— street Mr. Jackson, Highgate»hill — Magnus Jackson, Nottingham — Thomas Jackson, Manchester .-•. • — Jackson, Silver— street — Jackson, Bed Lion-street » — Jacobs, Chiswell-street — George Jameson, Dailington — lley, Somerset-street — R. Ingram, Manchester — John Johnson, Exeter-court — Thomas Johnson, Lisson-grove — John.son,. White-street — T. Johnson, Manchester — Johnson, Anmdel-street — J. Johnson, Exeter-court ' ;\ -^ — Jones, Canteen, Chelmsford — Judson, Grub-street .' Miss Jones, Curtain-road ,-,-"•■. '- '■ ' K. " -^ Sir Richard King, Bart. Capt. William Kent, Royal Navy Capt. Knox, Royal Navy Francis Keinbcr, Es<). Burton M». James Keating, South-street — Keately, Derliy — Kcelon, SontliMoulton-street — Jolm Kennedy, Gallon, Glasgow — Isaac Kerby, New-court, St. John-street — Robert Kervlake, Brixton — Kernoit, Wormwood-street — W. H. King, Fleet-lane — Kirk, Charliworth — John kirk, Spon-street, Coventry — Kirkman, Chapel en le Frith — Jonathan Knapton, Rio Janerio t. Capf. Lye, Royal Navy James Lamant, Esq. Arran-castle Samuel Laugrish, Esq. Cambridge David Ijttourhe, Esq. Dublin Henry Lee, Esq. Dover-place George IJoyd, Es(). Llangelly H. W. Looker, Esci. Clapham-road-place Mr. Lang, Kingland-road — Gilbert Lang, jun. — Lawson, City-road — Leaver, Shoe-lane ~- Lee, Gutldford-strcet, Bninswick-squara — Stephen Leigli. Dover — Lester, Gvle-street — Levy, White-niw — Andrew Liddell, Glasgow — I'homas Locock, James-street — G.Lloyd, St. Andrew's-street , . — Lucy, Little King-street ,; ' M. Capt. Macleod, Inverness Capt. Maddocks, Norton-hall, Cheshire. CapL James Martin, Blackwall Capt. Maxwell, Royal Navy .' Capt. Miller, St. Johns Capt. Mills, Royal Navy Dr. Monro, Adelpbi-terrace William Mansell, E^q. Windsor-castle ■' James Money, Esq. Bristol koger Moser, Elsq. Frith-street Anthony Matthews, Gent. Portsca Mr. Malard, Foley-strcet. — I'liom^is March, Denmark-court — Marshal, Derby — Martin, Upper Gower-stret — Samuel Martin, Phillips-gardens — Samuel Mason, Fareham — George Mason, jun. Fareham — Mi*lev, Hodge — Jolm Mc'Crindle, Fordhouse, Argyle- shirc — James Mc'Pherson, Glasgow — Mac Shenne, North-street — Alexander Menzies, South Lambeth — Stephen Miller, Glasgow , . (, . — Miller, Casllo-strect, Holborn — Miller, Old Gravel-lane — Monk, Brandon'srow — Moore, Little St. Thomas Apostle — Morris, Vioe-court — Morris, Chapel-street, Westminster - — Morris, Palace-street — John Mudie, Glasgow — Murphy, Doncaster MisB Mackenzie, Green-street m Miss Mc'Carty, Banner-street . • N. Sir Evan Nepean, Bart. Rev. Christopher Bi-amble Nay lor, Rector of Reculver, Kent Rev. Christopher Naylor, Rector of Se* rernby, Lincolnshire Mr. )ad-p1ace ck-3quare Ihcshire castle -' ica « ■ . ourt :X dens m e, Argylc- Lambeth rn >•:, Lpostle minster lor, Rector ctor of Se- Mr. Mr. Nannock, Cannon-street — Kaylor, IJislio|)»({atc-«trret — - I.NiclioUs, Gainsl'ord-streft, Southwark Sir Edward O'Brirn, Bart. Sir. W. Oglander, Bart. Colonel O'Kellr, Charles-street, Man- chester-square Capt. Oliver, Chapel-house Capt. R. W. Otway, Hoy a! Navy John Oglivie, Esq. Carron-house Samuel B. Oswald, Es(|. Park Farm- pi act; James Outrim, Esq. Clare-place Mr. John Olive, St, Catherine's-square' — Oliver, Chapel-place — Openshaw, Uury » ! -- Peter Oriel, St. MartinVlane - '■••,.,", ■ «?: ■ ■ ■ Sir James Parry, Grange-home Capt. Edward Price, Bedford-plactt Capt. Pcriam, Gloucester-row Capt. Perry, We?t-stre — John Smith, Gray'srinn-place — Smith, Bund-street — George Snoad, Rye — Solomon, Castle-street — Sparry, Great Bath-street — Splitberger, Newcastle-court — Springate, St. John-street — Springwheeler, Duke-street — Stables, Abingdon-strcet — Stephen Slandley, Wolverhampton — Steel, Catherine-street — Stephens, Onslow-strect — Stewart, Upper Shadwell — Tliomas Still, College-street — John Store, Charlotte-street — James Storey, Denmark-court — Street, Basing-lane — Such, Blackman-street Mra. Elizabeth Storey, Fitzroy-square Capt. Tower, Royal Navy Capt. Tucker, Royal Navy Capt. Turnbull, Ottery Joseph Terry, Esq. Huinpstead Samuel Tuiton, Esq. St. Thomas's-square Turton, fsq. St. James's-sqiiare Mr. Jame^ Taylor, Paisley — Taylor, jun. Slough — J. Taylor, Tiieobald's-road — ■ TV'illiitniTeirord, Glasgow — Thickbi-oom, Spon-itreet, Covtuiry — JDavid Thomas, Bishopigate-aircoi — Thomlinnon, Ilodge — Tomlinson, Rosomon-strect — Chri. Thompson, Little ChapelNilreet — Jacob Tomlui, Stjuiley-liall, Clitheroe — John Tuck — Turnbull, Tower-Uill Capt. Upton, Royal Navy Capt. Uvkins, Boston Mr. Unwin, Betbnal Grccri-rv»ad V. '''-■ Capt. Vanxittart, Royal Navy Mr. T. Vasev, Monmouth-conrt — W. Vise," F. M. S. Spuldint; — Yisick, Webb-street "'^■""^:■■^%^•^■ ■':; ^ . ", f ■ . Sir Robert Williams, Bart. ■ Colonel Wrotighton, Adwickle-street, near Doncaster Capt. Wallis, Orford Ness Capt. Wainriijht, Roval Navv Capt. David Willian'is, Welch Pool Capt. Woolcombe, Royal Navy Dobson Willoughlw, Esq. Hampstead G, ^VIlite, Esq. Doncaster J. White, Esq Doiic^ister , ■ ' " Wioley, Esq. Bruiiswic k-squatc Andrew Wdsoii, Fjsq. Renfrew W. Walter, Gent Southampton Mr. George Wallace, Chartes-strcet — Wall, Nottingham ■i— Waller, Princes-square — J. Walter, Evesliam-builidings — Ward, Bolton — Ward, Hinckley — John Wateman, I.uddesdown ; —• Richard Weake, Ghellenliam --• Thomas Weatliejhead, Eyre-strect — William Weaver, Denmark-court — John Webster, Walsall — John West, London-wall — W. West, jun. — George Westbrook, Plough-conrt — John Wheeler, Terrant liinlon, Doi'se't — James White, jun. Paisley — J. ^^ iggins, Satlron-hill — John Wigzi.Il, Canterbury — J.Wigzell, Green-street, '1 heobald'a-road — John Wilcox, Beverley — J. Wild, Bury — George Wilkins, Derby, three copies — Wilkinson, Blackburn — Eleazer Williams, Oxford-street — Thomas M'illiams, Gibraltar — Williams, Hermitage-street — Williams, Ely-place — \Villiamson, Eton College — G. Willis, Manchester — Willson, Cannon-street — Archibald Wimiing, Glasgow — William Witney, Fyfield — W(xi(l, Alirincham — Wood, Turninill-street ' — William Woltou, Wiilinhall — William Wright, Westiuiibtcr — Wiliiatn Wright, Postcrn-row — Pcler Wrigiit.-Paisiley Miss Chai'lotlu Wviidiiam, Charlotte-street ' Y. . Capt. Young, Royal Navy Lieut. Yates, \h>\ al Nav v" ' ■ Litut. Yoiir.gev, lloyal ^3avy '' ' Tliomas Yoiiiig, Esq. C'obhani '■■•'' Mr. Ga)rgeYeomans, John-street, MinDries — John Voi-ng, jun. Stob-liill, NoriUuni. berland ^ Young, East Smiihiidd , ii »yiM » ! '*>. *^¥ N LIST of the PRINTS, with the PLACES for 4hdr INSERTION. r^it Conceprioii May ' . • . .- . 6- Ruins or ihc temple of Hermopotis •^ Man and Woman of New JSoaliud • "6 Iiih.ibifantHpf Manilla ■C Antique Staiiic at Thttbais . - - ■ — in — 11 -via •»'. J,'; 14 Remains of tho Temple at'Latapolis Inhabilallls of Port ■» •«*, fiance M Otulir;t« - ■» ,' -^ Temple of Horraontis •! Female Of Qiahi-ito bringing a PKsent yiw and Boy of Cape DiemAn "" HI of Hie Bedouiiii jiie of Abbu A^andour > of file World - 'lit I 'K' i .if lalc of Port des Fran^oi* uan Pigaon Houses, Ac. - • insit)f Canopus 'Man of tht! Admiralty Ifilandf - Antique Fragment's, " A Hawk," tc, A DanceatPaiifjaimatoo . . . View in tho Island of Uouio Mourod, or Moiiret, Bey • • Onloa, of Wagiou . . » I'lanticollecied by Sonnini SoaOttiir . . . , - Manner of trafrllingin Kampttchatka (iistniraeuts of Now Caledonia - iifagpio of Njw Caledonia hipitw iHese ' . Black S\. iiK> Dicman - King of (j, bringing Presents White Jkar .... Antique Fragments ( Fig 1. Osiris) Persons of Pares . . . - People of Tschutskiu . - Caps of Ooiialaiika - • • It Snitg Coroiir Co'o ... Ma I (ind Woman of Sandwich Inlands \ Mbhi in OlaliPJie - V Hut of Terra del Fu^go «'~~^5 1 A Hippah in New ^jAland "fi Cleoirftra's.Netdle,'&o. " Woirtin of ^iitorina .Vomi'n of Nfo' . • - . Kish of tht Nile • • ■ W<>meo of Arpenlierra - - * ■ tloliimn at Aiiiii>opeli% &c. The Port of Uap|icisch\vyl Pe.is4litry of SwitztrUhd . - Fountain of Vevay, . . l>ersanlry of SwiWerUiid , - • I^plandei-s - ' " " Palace at Petcrsbiitgh Peasantry of Switser'aiid Inliabitanii of Grocniand Mode of travelling of the Yakoules (Janoes Used by.ttlie 'U(Ocnlan>lers Neptune of tlio Chinese • . Antique Fta,^ment» (rritgicMa.sk) View in tiio Ri«cr. Uottuton • Fribuig • • " " * Macoa In China ... •, • F'iHli of the Nile (the Schall) Hut of a Calniuc of Eminence American. Indian ... Thu Ebtchange at Kuttcnlam Alexandria .... Man iuid Woman of Mexico Remains of Genetjisc Uelft Gate, Rotterdam ... Muntniusard, near Uijon Kish of the Nili; ... Man of New Caledonia Antique Fragment!', (A Buetle, &c.) Stoiii- of Proclamation at Venice Karakakooa Bay - - . - . .Antiqtie Fr.igments, (Head of Isis) Woman of New Calcdoiiia Map of Spain and Portugal ' « Prison at Venice ... - . Bolcherctzkol, in Kamtichatka' Temple of Fortuna VIrilis ' Concord « . - - Suburbs of .Maplen ^ . ■ . Uulph of Naples ... lituantegung, of the Chinese View of 'Naples, Plate I. ■ Do .Plate 11. . . Chinese working tlie Chain Pump The Inca of Peru cons^rating, &c. Rejoicing of the Mexicans' ^ - Sjiecimeiis of Fgyptim Architecture "— — Sculpture Entertainment Russian Evenhig Mexican I'rie^ts Map of Kurope iK>iii>ehuld Divinities, d'c, Miiarsen, in Holland king Dyke ^ . . ' Map of Africa ^ , . Puasants of VriesUnd Map of South America ' lUtWng Children at Mojeo - Msrrijg'r Ceromojiy of Canada Mip of North America ■ Asia ,- . . Costume nf Spain Map of W. Ichereii Kivi-r Scheldt - . . , ToscalipntH, of tho Mexicans Oibtunie of Mn.ior>a . - figiirejin the ToripL' of Dendera Brainali, thi; Idol of the Hindoos Figures ill the Teiiplc of Ujjidera I'esciliijoca, of tho Mesicans Figiirss in tho Tnn|>le uf Dendera Do. : ■ Mui4i|iies of Abou Marilour Peasants of Mi^jnrca and iMinorca View of Avaloii ^tun ... Island uf Frankfort Nurembei^g Hiniloo!> arid Serpents ff^liiOJ Cuiemouy of the Mexicans ■J' ■■,•' II. 1. II. I II. I 11. II. li. U I. II I. II. I. 1. II. II. II. II II. II. II II. II II II. II II II I. I. II. II. Il< ii! II. I. II. II. II I I. II II. II II. 'I 1. II. I. II. I. I, I. II. II. II. II. II. II. I. II. % 4:1 80} 4 dir i)i)(i tiSO 44 136 4J 447 »90 41 li< ;J06 4'18 151 4'3S i'ib 4Ug -lag 4:J7 827 R50 850 l;J 14 ,W8 850 fi4D 825 POi noa 73 807 84,-> 697 84S 45 .)57 707 t)W4 ()94 8'0 sot 59 S.JJ r.9 85Q 59 .59 28 «01 69 1 ()91 849 4J.^ 405 ,-40 350 o*„ Priatcd by W. Stcatf«rdi,,Qrow4-(;uurt, TempletBar. # ■.-^iH'; if) ~ \(Sr The Auihov and Fioprietor heif Leave to return their Thanks to the Pubhc.'^r'the very libvrnl Encouragement they %uve met wit It in the Sale qf this Work ; A New Edition of which, is 7ww in the Prcs.i, and considerable Progress made in the Printin*. Such of the Plates us have hee)r in any Manner injured by the Number of Impressions taken qf, are restokd to their orij^inal Perfection, others hav(^been Aewly engraved; and wliere any Alteration, or Emendation could i^ tnaile^ it has not been omitte4; so thai the New Editioil iuill in every Respect be fully equal to that now conTpleied. ■ *''" %ift^k* y. ■•!■ 111. I • 111. I 111- 1 IT 41 839 805 - 11. USD III. L>l 1. 11 1 >. 80(1 44 136 4.J 11.1447 , 1. »?• *fl I. 41 II. h^ II. *W8 11. 4-18 11 151 II, 4JS II. 4y& 11. 1 458 II II II II. II II II I. I. II. II. II II 11. I. II. u. II. 1. I. II 11 II tl 'I 1. I!. I. II. I. 1. I. II. II. II. II. 11. II. I. u 4.17 - 4!37 8B7 R50 850 ' 1.1 14 ;>i6 850 (149 825 eOi bO« 73 807 34."> 697 84S ■45 .-)57 707 tf.t4 094 8>0 sot 59 r.9 850 59 .S9 28 80 1 an 691 819 4J.'> ■105 l?40 950 Encouragement tlietf tbie Progress made ons taken of, are EmendtUion could at now contfktei. U.'; UH W \\ ii<' ■iVUh i'^, ' y\\ '.i,Kn ;, '!.» , .. »v<'« I VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD ''-il;< Dl'KING • •.<■%'• .»♦■ The Years 1785. 178(5, 1787. and 1788, ^ ,^ u.'l^r, lit\r\ .■' K'fiV iS3^ L.l FEUOrSM. -' i 'l '.' .. ■''''■' ' ■> ■'■',•> ' '( ti .-/ fj'viiifi ■*;..<■ v , lA, ;5»' jiJo.iaoJ' ij; i;ii;-f{v?»»;i.&3 i|iv>f |•^^:J - , (V -^i J *>iJ'>ji» i'.. i'cJ iwU i. > ;>i:^i '.iV.* 'h f^'?. TilE publications of various <.'ircumnaviga- tors, especially tho.4e of (he inimurtal Cook, liavc excited an almost universal interest in the perusal of Voyages and Travels. The Voyages of diiferent English navigators, in e.vtending human knowledge, claimed the admiration of the whole world. All Europe therefore held in the highest estimation Captain Cook's great talents, and the firm disposition of his mind. But in 90 vast a field there will be room to ac- quire fresh knowledge for centuries to corae-^ coasts to survey; plants, trees, fish, and birds to describe ; minerals and volcanoes to observe ; nations to study, and perhaps to render more happy ; since a farinaceous plant, or a new epecics of fruit, must be un inestimable benefit to the inhabitants of the islands in the South Sea. These reflections suggested the project of a voyage round the world, und scientific men of every class were enrolled in the expedition. M. Dagalet, of the Academy of Sciences, and M. Monge embarked in the character of astrono> iners ; the former on board the Houssole, and the latt«r on board the Astrolabe. jVI. de Lanianon, a member of the Academy of Turin, undertook the department of geology. The Abbe Moiigrs superintended the progress of the dilFerent branches of physics. M. de Jaissau was selected for the botanical department. ]VI(>ssienrs Pre- vost, uncle and iiefthew, were engaged to pnint every article belonging to natural history. M. Du- fresne, u great patia'alist, , was tedded by the con- trol ler-generul of the finiuiccs. And latsUv, M. Vol. II. No. LXIV. ' Diichi: dc V'aiicy was I'ligaged to eiiibark, in order to depict the dresses and scenery of the difierent countries the navigators might visit. All the learned bodies in the kingtioni Mere, oil this occasion, anxious of raaiiil'esting (heir zeal for the progress of the Arts and Sci- ences. The marosthal De Castries, nnnistcr of the marine, who recommended La Perouse to his Majesty for the command, ordered the different ports to furnish the vessels with whatsoever might contribute to the success of the expedi- tion. Having been empowered to appoint his own ofticcrs, he chose for the command of the Astrolabe, M. de Langle, a post captain, who had distinguished himself in the Astree, in the expedition to Hud.son's Bay. Oflicers innume> rable ufiering themselves to La Perou«e and M. de Langle, they soon selected from among them such a number of distinguished professional ta- lents as they required. Having received his instructions. La Perouse sat oft' for Brest on the 1st of July, where he ar- rived on tha 4th, and found the equipment of two frigates in great forwardness. By the 10th, the whole quantity of things contained in the Roussole was incredible. M. de Cloiiard, La Perouse's second captain, had stowed her with great zeal and ingenuity : the Astrolabe was furnished with the same articles as the Boussole. On tlic 1 1th, the frigates were in the road, and had a favourable season for their dcjiarture. M. Dilector ordered tfifein to anchor there with hakbour moorings, that, when the wind should ■i 1 -iiwrrrTT' rx rasn PERpUSE't VOYAGE ROtJND THE WORLD; riiii iiii n'lmimwilM— "ii-ifiT'n Tiftinr n t t 1 .1 P permit them to sail, tlMv might have nothing to debut to slip the cables*. But the object of their putting in al Madeira could not be attained : the price of wine having been raided to such ar. excessive height. La Pe> rouse found it almost impossible to purchase a supply, he therefore ordered every thing to be prepared for sailing on the following day, which was the 16th of August. But, before his de- parture, he received an additional present from Mr. Johnston, consisting of rum, preserved citron, and a barrel of dry wine, a hundred bottles of Malmsey Madeira, and an inunehse quantity of fruit. After only three days' run. La Perouse anchor- ed at TeneniTc on the I9th in the afternoon. This island, which is not embellished with a single tree, seems entirely parched up, and formed, of different strata of lava, and other volcanic matter. 8ooii after his arrival at Teneriffe, he caused an observatory to be erected on shore; the parti'- culnrs resulting from which are too mintite to be specilied in this place. Several observations were made relative to the latitude and longitude at Santa Cruz in Teneriflc, the position of which thev think may be fixed at 18" 36' 30" west longitu.k>, and 2S« 21' 30' north latitude. On the 30th of August La Perouse sailed with a fresh breeze from the north-east, having taken, sixty pipes of wine on board each ship, which came from Oratuva, a small town situated on theotherside of the island. The Marquis de Bran- ciforte, governor-general of the Canary Islands, faid the navigators the greatest attentions during is continuance in the road of Santa Cruz. The run, as far as the line, was attended by no re- markable circumstance : but a few days after La Perouse's departure from Teneritfe,. he lost that clear sky which is only to be found in the tcm- peiate zone. At sun-set on the 16th of October, .La Pe- rouse got sight of the island cf Trinidada; and at ten the next morning, he was only two leagues * This Toyagc, which is highly interesting in its present slate, would have afforded a complete body of Taltiable in. formation, had not the tragical catastrophe occurred. If any hope remains, it appears to be fitllacioas, and will daily become more so. The westerly wind detained the vessels ia the road till the 1st of Anigust, on which day tiwy sailed from Brest Uoad to Madeira, where they arrired on the I3th. Before they were well at linchor, Mr. Joknson, an English merchant, sent a boat laden with fruit on board La Perouse's ship. 2 distant from the south-east point, which bore north-west. Seeing the Portugueae fla^ flying in the midst of a small fort, surroundea by hvu or six wooden houses, his curiosity was excited, and he resolved to send a boat ashore to learn the particulars of its evacuation or cession by the English: he saw, from its appearance, that Trinidada would neither aflinrd him the wood or water which he required. He hailed the Astrolabe, and consulted with M. Dc Lungic on the propriety of sending a boat to enquire what supplies the island could afford them. la consequence of which M. De Langle dispatched the pinnace, commanded by lieutenant De Yau- juas. M. De La Martiniere, and Father Rece- veur accompanied that officer. They landed, with much difficulty and danger, at the hciul of the creek, between two rocks. M. De Vau- juas saw about two hundred men at this post, fifteen of whpm were in uniform, and the rest in their shirts. No satisfactory inforniution could be obtained on any subject that was ugiluted, the conimandant thinking himself justifiable in disguising, (he truth in every particular, lie preteiided that, hia. garrison, consisted of four hundred men, and that his fort was defended by twenty guns; though not a single one mount* ed appeared in the neighbourhood of the esta- blishment. The officer was so much ashamed or afraid of exposing the miserable state of hia settlement, that he would not suffer any one to leave the beach in search of plants : After many external tokens of kindness and civility, he ad- vised M. De Vaujuas to return on board, as- suring him that the island could not fur- nish him with any thing; that provisions were sent every six months from Rio Janeiro, and that they could not procure a sufficient quantity of wood and water for the garrison. His detach- ment readily assisted in putting off the pinnace. From the report of Messieurs de Vaujuas and Boutin, it was apparent that the island.of Tri- nidada could not furnish a sufficient supply of After having paid Iiis respects to the gOTornor, La Pe> rouse vrnt to dine with Mr. Johnston, from whom ho had received such polite and hospitable treatment. On the folu lowing day he breakfasted at the delightful country.scat of Mr. Murray, the English consul. Uis eyes could onVy be drawn off from gazing.at this enchanting villa, by the. cap- tivating charms of the consul's three nieces, who came to prove to him that nothing was wanting to add perfection tf» that enchanting abode. vood FRUOUW^ VOYAGIi: R')UND THF WORLD. lich bore ftg flying id hy fivo • excited, to learn eggion by mce, that tlie wood 1 ailed the Lang'lc oil enquire Ihem. In Itspatched i De Vau- h«r Rece- !y landed, the hciul . De Yau- this post, d the rvtit tiun could i ugine mouot- r the est»> ishamed or ftte of his iny one to ifter many ity, he ad- board, as- I not fur- igions were o, and that quantity of iis detach- e pinnace, 'auju48 and ind of Tri- supply of irnor, La Pe- \rhoin ho had On the folk ouiitry*se)rt of could only be , by thc.cap; who caiiio to I perfectioato irond «nd water. La Perouse therefore deter- mined (o steer immediately for the island of St. Catherine^ on the coait of Brazil* where Fre- zier anu Admiral Ansor found ample means of gratifying all their wants *. , ,- SECTION II. 1,. .i «.- ^... Description of the Inland of St. Catherine, Sgr. Departure frmn--Arrtxal at Conception'. 4- THIS island is extremely fertile, producing all sorts of fruity vegetables, and corn, al- most spontaneously. It is covered with trees of everlasting green, but they are so curiously in- terwoven with plants and briars, that it is im- possible to pass through the forests wit 'i c it open- ing a path with a hatchet: to add to the di'^'w^ulty, danger is also to be apprehended from snakes "whose bite is mortal. 1 he habitations are bor- dering on the sea. The woods are deligitlfully fragrant, occasioned by the orange trees and other odoriferous plants and shrubs which form a part of them. But amidst all these advantages^ the country is extremely poor, and totally destitute of manufactured commodities : the peasants are ragged, and almost naked. The soil, which is well calculated for the cultivation of sugar, remains untilledi as they are too poor to pur- chase slaves for that necessary purpose. The whale-fishery is indeed successful, but it belongs to the crown, and is farmed by a company at Lisbon, which has three large establishments on the coast. They kill about four hundred whales nnnually, the produce of which is sent to Lisbon by the way of Rio Janeiro. The inhabitants ea«itifully variegated plu- mugo; and .-inong others a fine rollicr, a species iMtr desorilRHl by Buifon, though very common iil-thisrouuiry. La Porotts? purohasod at St. Catherine's a saf- fici^it f|uaj>tHy *>»' oxen, hogs, and poultry, td fred the ahijj's coHipany at nea for a month. His inardenitrwds also prtivided witli kernels df oranges tM«d lemons; and with the seeds of the cotton vhrub,>!ii)d Indian corn: as well as with all the vi>g4'(ables vvliiob (he inhabitants of tlie islands of the HotiOi Sea are known to be in want of. On the day uf departure, la Perouse gave the AHtrolabe new signals, on a more extensive scale thurn those which had before been adopted. They ^vere destined to^ navigate in the midst of fogs, nM in tempesflious seas; circumstances which required additional precautions. It was also agreed between the two respective commanders, that, in case of separation, their first rendezvous should be the harl>our of Good Succcks, in Le- nmire's Straits, if they should wot have passed its latitude on the 1st of January; and the second. Point Venus, in the Island of Otaheite. It Avas also agreed that, his researches in the Atlantic Ocean should' be confined to hh Gh^amk de la Boche, not having sufficient time to sock a pas* sage to the southward of Sandwich Land. The weather contiinied fine till the 28th of November, when a violent gale of wind rose from the eastward. After variety of calculations, iand a fruitlps.s search of forty days, during which lime five gales of wind were experienced, the ^ La IVruusu had preferred the island of Saint Catherine to Rio Janeiro, t» avoid the forms obs«Rvcd ia largu cities, ivkidi uccoiiiou much loss of time; and experiencQ taught Jiim that it combined niAny other advantages. ProviitioDS of ail kinds were abundant: a larfC' ux coat oulyvight dullur.s ; » ^^1 wei^iiiiiK one hnndrod and fifty poumis, half that iuai! two tiu'kiuii were pujrcbascd for adullar: live hundred oranges weif kuM f^r lest than half a dollar: and vi^ep tables were pxtn-nu-ly reasonable. To procure fish, ijt wan only ncccssiirv to cast tl c net, and almost instantly to hawl it up full of till! aquatic tribe. il- During his run through the Straits of Lcmairc, at half idea of the existence of hk Grande dila Rdblk vmi abandoned. La Perouse exprcstiy said, " I am fully persuaded that /8/(! Ctra;i(9f, like Pepv'i* Island, is the creation of fancy: the account of La Roche, who pretends to have senn lofty trees upon it, being entirely destitute -of founda- tion." On the I4th of January the navigators struck f round on the coast of Patagonia ; and on the 1st they got sight of the north point of Gallegos river on that coast. On the 2^ at noon (hey set the Cape of the Virgins, bearing west, four leagues distant. 6n (he^5th, at two o'clock, Im Perouse took bearings a league to the southward of Cape San Diego, forming the west point of the Straits of I.(eniaire. At three he cntere sugar, and some articles of European manufac-^ ture, which the wretched natives can only pur* chase at second or third hand; heavy duties hav ing been imposed upon them first at Cadiz, theri at Lima, and afterwards on their entering Chili. Thev can only give in exchange wheat, which is of little value, nides, tallow, aiid a few planks ; so that the balance of trade is always against Chili. It seems evident that if Spain does not change its system. Chili will never reach that pitch of popularity which might be expected from its climate, soil, and situationf . The women wear a kind of plaited petticoat^' _ formed killed, of which the hides and tallow only are presrrTcdi^ and sent to Lima. This island is also remarkable for the loD^evity of it.^ inhabitants : many of the natires of con- ception have completed a century. + This country produces a small quantity of gold: § most of the rivers being auriferous, an inhabitant can earn about There are single plantations in St. Domingo wA/^jiro- duce us large a quanlitif. C . half PEROUSE's VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. formed of antique gold and silver slufia. These petticoats, however, are never summoned upon duty but on gala days, and may be entailed in a family; descending, in regular gradation, from the grandmother to the grand-daughter. A small number of females, however, are thus gorgeously habited, the majority have barely sufficient to conceal their nakedness. , Sloth and superstition, have peopled this coim- try with nuns and monks ; the latter of whom are the greatest profligates in America. The common people of Conception have a great pro- pensity to thieving; and the women are far from being difficult of access. They are, in general, a mongrel race; but the true-bred Spaniards are polite and obliging in the extreme. La Perouse was hardly at anchor abreast of Talcaguana, when a letter was brought him from M. Quexada, commandant pro tempore, in- forming him that he and his suite should be re- ceived like fellow-countrymen. This letter was accompanied by a large quantity of refreshments, -which poured in from every quarter. Obliged to attend to the refitting of the ship, and some other pressing emergences. La Perouse could tiot go immediately to the governor to thank him for his flattering epistle, yet resolved to take the earliest opportunity of acquitting himself of that duty; but the governor was too expeditiousj and came on board the Boussole, attended by the principal oHicers of his colony. The following day La Ferouse returned the visit, accompanied by M. de Langle, and many of the principal of- ficers. They were preceded* by a detachment of dragoons. M. Quexada^ M. Sabatero, com- mandant of the artillery, and the town-major, -went to meet them at a league's distance from Conception ; and they all entered the house of M. Sabatero, where an elegant dinner was pro- vided for them; and at night a splendid ball vras given, to which the principal ladies of the place were invited. kalf a dollar a-day by washing the earth ; bnt, provisions being abundant, he has few iiicitemuiits to labour. Unac- qaaiiited with luxury and arts, he has no energy to oppose to Bloth. Tbe ground lies waste and uncultivated ; a few hours devoted to the washing of the sand of their rivers, exempts them from the necessity of let> niog any trade or employment, where industry or ingenuity is required. * It is well linowD that they sometimes bleed their horses and oxen, and drink the luscious beverage. i iui La Perouse coaceived himself under obligations t The dress of these ludica had iivwy singuT.ir appearance: a plaited petticoat^ exposing half the leg, tied below the waist: stocking.^, striped with white, red, and blue; and short shoes so constructed as to give the foot the appearance of being circular, are the ]icculiarities of the ball- dress of the ladies of Chili. They wear no powder in their hair, which is divided in braids, extending down their backs. Their corset is usually composed of gold or silver stutt', and covered with two short cloaks of muslin and wool, of various colours. When in the streets, and the weather is cold, they cover the head with their woollen cloaks: when sitting in a room they generally place them on their knees. With the muslin cloak, the ladies of Conception dis- play infinite grace by the judicious shifting of that article of apparel. They are beautiful, ami in some degree fascinating: foreign navigator<^ are no where received with so much kindness and civility as in the city of Conception. The ball concluded about midnight. The Indians of Chili are converted, by tlie in- crease of horses, oxen, and sheep, into a nation of Arabs, resembling those that inhabit the deserts of Arabia. Continually on horseback, they regard an excursion of two hundred leagues as a moderate journey. In their peregrinations they are accompanied with their flocks and herds^ and are supported by their flesh and milk, and ofiten by their blood*. Of the skins of these animals they form their bucklers, curiasses, and helmets. The introduction of two domestic animals, has greatly influenced the manners of tin; tribes from St. Jago to the Straits of Magel- lan : their old customs, dress, and manners, are laid aside, and they now resemble the Tartars, more than their ancestors who existed two cen- turies agof. But in the midst of these diversions and ar'nse- ments, the principal object was not to be tur- gotten. On the day of his arrival La Perouse ' had all the iuhabitants, his gratitude induced, him to give a gc. ncral entertainment before his departure, and to invite all the ladies of Conception. A large tent was pitched near the sea, and a dinner provided for one hundred and fifty persons who should condescend to partalie of it. After the repast, a dance ensued ; which was followed by a briU liunt display of fireworks, and a balloon; On the follow, ing day the crews of both the frigates were liberally enter, tained in the same tent. La Perouse and M dc Langle were at the head, and each o£Bcer, down to the lowest sailor. PEROUsr/rt voYAor, rhlnd the world. 11 «ry singular posing lialf ug3, striped irt shoes so appearance jof tlicball- icy wear no •(i in braids, ;ir corset is x stiitt', and muslin and n the streets, er tlie head ,ng in a room Lnees. With necption dis- 18 shifting of leautiful, and ;n navigator* uch kindness option. The ;«d, by t!ie in- iiito Si nation t inhabit the )n horseback, mdred leagues peregrinations icks and herds, and milk, and skins of these curiasses, and two domestic le manners of aits of Magel- 1 manners, are e the Tartars, listed twoccn- lonsandar't'sc- not to he lor- al La Pi^-rouse had him to gWe a gc- , and to invite all it was pitched near hundred and flfty take of it. After followed by a briU I1-. Onthefollow- erc liberally enter- and M dc Langle own to the lowMt lailor* I. ^\ i.l ' had slgnilicd that he sliould sail on the 15th of Match, and that if the vessels should be ready before that time, every man should be permitted to go and amuse himself on shore. Though he ' apprehended this promise would create dispatch, he feared the consequences might be pernicious : he knew that wine was very common at Chili, and he also knew that every house in Talca- c-uana was a tavern: he knew also that the f()wcr classes of the women were as compliant as the ladies at Otaheite. No disaster, however, succeeded their voluptuous revels. At day-break on the 15th, La Perouse made the signal to prepare to sail; but the wind had Settled at north. On the 17th, about noon, a light breeze sprung up, with which he got under w.'iy. It was so very faint that it only carried liim two leagues out of the bay, where be re- mained becalmed in a heavy swell. Whales surrounded him during the night, and came so close to the vessels that they threw water on board from their spiracles. On the 8th of April, about noon. La Perouse saw Easter Island, which bore Avest 5*» south, distant twelve leagues. During the night he ranged along the coa3t of that island, at three leagues distance. At Hay- break he steered for Cook's Bay, which is well sheltered from easterly winds. AieJ^ven he wa.4 only a league from the anchora^."" The Astro- labe let go her anchor, and the Boussole did the same; but a sudden shelving of the bottom per- mitted neither of them to hold. They were therefore obliged to heave them upi and make two boards to regain the anchorage. The ar- dour of the Indians was not restrained by this accident. They swam after the ships and came on board smiling, supposing themselves in per- fect security. They were not in the least ap- prehensive of being carried away from their native land, though they were naked and un- armed; a bundle of grass girt round their loins with packthread, to preserve decorum, con- stituted the whole of their cloathing. ^»'; SECTION IV. Easter Island — Occurrences in that Island — Manners arid Customs of the Inhabitants. EARLY in the morning every preparation was made fur landing. This part of Easter Island rises about twenty feet from the sea. La Perouse expected to fina many friends on shore, having loaded with presents alt those who had come from thence the preceding night; but from the knowledge he had acquired of other navigators, he thought it might be necessary to prevent their .usual depredations, by operating sailor, vr&f seated according to his rank on board. Wooden bowls were substituted for plates and dishes. The major-general then g.-iTe afcle, to which all the of. ficers and respectable inhabitants were invited. * About five hundred Indians, all unarmed, waited to re- ceive the navigators on shore : a few of them were cloathed in white or yellow, and the rest were naked: tho faces of some of them were painted red; and not a few of them were tatooed. With countenances expressive of joy, they ad- vanced to tender their hands to facilitate their landing. That business being accomplished, an inclosurc was formed with armed soldiers, ranged in a circle, leaving a space void, in which a tent was. afterwards pitched. La Perouse then ordered the different animals to bo brought on shore, as well as tbe lerenl articles he iatended to bestow ai presents. He upon their fears. He therefore ordered the land- ing to be conducted with some military parade. It was accordingly effected with four boats and twelve armed soldiers. M. De Langle and him- self were followed by all the passengers, and such officers whose presence was not absolutely necessary on board the two frigates, amounting in the whole to about seventy persons*. The Indians, as before observed, were un- armed, had strictly enjoined his people not to fire at the Indians, but to endeavour by mild and civil trcatrnt-iit, to prevent ra. pacity and outrage ; but this clemency soon increased tho number of these troublesome islanders to about eight hun- dred, among whom there were one hundred and fifty women. The features of these females were alluring, and their favours were to be purchased by a moderate pre- sent. While the attention of the men was attracted by these seducers, they were plundered of their hats and handker- chiefs. The whole groupe were evidently accomplices in the robbery, for as soon as they had .iccomplished their views, they all fled at the same iostaut. Finding, huw. ever, that the French visitants did not make use of firearms, they instantly returned, renewed their caresses, and eagerly sought ML, '■ ^> ■4^ I I f^i 1 J 1 j '. f 12 P'?nOUSF,'« VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. armed, except a few of them who hud a kind of slight woudcn clut>. Some of thcin assumed nil apparent superiority over the others, which induced Lu IVrouse to consider the former as chiefs, and therefore distributed some medals amons^ them. Iianging them round their necks by a chaui ; but he soon discovered that these se- lected persons were the most notorious oifenders; and, tlioug'h they pretended to pursue others who had Ixt'ii accused of lurceiiicH, it was easily perceived tliat they never intended to overtake them. ITaving hut a few bouri to rpniain upon the island, and wishing to employ his time to the best advantage. La P< rouse leJY the c«»re of the tent, and other particular!), to his first lieutenant M. D'Escmes. A division was tlien made of the persons tMigi««';ed in the ndveiitiire : one part, iiiuler the command of M. De Langle, was to penetrate into the interior of the island to en- tourage and promote vegetation, by disseminat- ing seeds, &c. in a proper soil ; and the other division undertook to visit the monuments, plan- tations, and habitati4>n», withit> the compass 9f a league of the establishment. The largest of the rude busts upon one of the terraces, is four- teen feet six inches in height, and the breadth and other particulars appeared to be propor- tionate. >"Vith respect to the population of this coun- try, some diniculties seem to arise. Out of twelve hundred persons who collected to greet the arrival of the navigators in the Bay, not more than three hundred wotnen appeared. Per- haps many of tiiein, either from delicacy, or a due attention to their children and domestic af- fairs, had remained in their humble niausioas. The monuments which now exist, appear to be very ancient: they are situated in Morals, (or burying places ) as generally supposed, a large quantity of bones being always to be found nea" them. The form of their present government has so far equalized their conditions, that they have no idea of erecting a colossal stutiie to per- petuate the memory of any particular chief. sought for oppordmitics to commit new deprrdafloiis. After due insiMH-Hon uf tliu tricks and fallacies put in practice to iHib the enamoured Frenchmen, La Peroiise ordered them, to prevent dangerous consequences, torcstoii^to tile soldiers and sailors the articles that they had' bwn pilfering. * The basts of colossal size, which have alruadV been 2 Those pompous images are now superseded by small pyramidical heaps of stones, the upper- most of which is whito-washcd. These species of mausoleums are usuallv erected on the sea- shore. A native signified tnat one of these stones covered n tomb, by falling prostrate on the ground ; and afterwards, elevating his hands to- wards the sky, wished to convey an idea that they believed in a future state*. A small part of this island is ui.iler cultivation. It is, however, generally agreed, that three days' labour of an Indian tvilfiirocure him sub- sistence for a )'ear. From the ease with which the necessaries of life are procured. La Perouse supposed the productions of the earth were in common. lie was convinced, indeed, that the houses were common, at least to a whole villaffe or district. One of these habitations near nu tent was tliree hundred and ten feet in length, ten feet in breadth, and ten feet in height to- wards the middle. The whole erection is capa- ble of containing two hundred people. It forms a kind of hamlet of itself, but is totally uiifur- nislied. Two or three small houses l ppear at a little distance from it. La Perouso does not pre- tend to decide whether the women are common to a whole district, and the children to the re- public; but he asserts that no Indian seemed to exercise the authority of a husband over any one of the females. If they are private property, it is a kind of which the possessors are very li- beral. Some of the houses are siibterranebus ; others are built with reedi, which are methodically arr- ranged, and form a sulficient defence from the rain. The building is supported by pillars of compact lava, resembling stone. It seems clear, as Ca))tain Cook observes, that there is a strong aifinity between this people, and those of the other islands of the South Sea: they have th^ same language and features, and their cloth is fabricated of the bark of the mulberry tree. Perhaps these islanderc fbrinerly cnjoyetV the same productions as tirose of the Society Islands. The fruit trees must have perished with drought, noUci^d, demonstrate (hat small progress has been made here in sculpture. They arc formed, by a Volcanic production, known by (he name of Lapillo ; so soft a stbnu that Cap. taiu'Cook's olVicurs supposed it to have been, composed uf a kihd of mortar iiardcucd in the air. as 1 ] u %\ Tscded by he uppei- ase Hpccies n the sca- hcHe stones ite on the 8 hands to- I idea that cuUivntion. that three re hitn sub* with which La Peruuse rth were in d, that the hole vil!affe lis near his : in length, height to- ion is capar e. It forms AMy unfur- t ppear at a loes not pre- are common n to the rc- n seemed to [wer ai»y one property, it are very Ir- ebus; others hodically arr nee from the l)y pillars of : seems clear, e is a strong those of the ley htt\e Ih^ Iheir cloth is rry tree, enjoyed the ciety Islands. nth drought, s becii made licre anic production, st'ono that Ca.\u a composed ot a 4 as 1 ] li I i i1 / hi en di II PEHOUSE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORI.I). / «S well a» the dogs and hogs, water * being es- sential to their existence; but man can reconcile himself to any thing: in Hudson's Straits he can make the oil of the whale his bavcrage, and drink the sea-water like the Albatrosses 'at Cape Horn. Returning about noon to the tent, with the intention of going on board, in order to permit the next in command to come on shore. La Perouse found almost ever}' man without either hat or handkerchief; so much had forbearance encouraged the audacity of the thieves, that he also experienced a similar depredation. An Indian, who had assisted him in descending from a terrace, rewarded himself for his trouble by taking away his hat. La Perouse, however, did not order him to be pursued, that he might be punished for his transgression : but at the hour of two he returned on board, and M. de Elonard, his next in command, appeared on shore. Two officers of the Astrolabe arrived soon after to inform La Perouse that the Indians had boon perpetrating new outrages, from which serious consequences might ensue. Some of them had dived Under water, cut the small rable of the Astrolabe's boat, and taken away her grapnel. The discovery was not made till the plunderers had proceeded a considerable way into the interior of the island, when two officers and .some soldiers went immediately in pursuit of them, but they were saluted by a shower of stones. A musket, loaded only with powder, and fired in the air, created no intimidation among them. It was therefore thought neces- sary to fire another piece charged with small shot; some grains of which perhaps annoyed the Indians^ for the stoning instantly ceased, and * In times Tcry remote the inhabitants were so imprudeat as to prohibit the salutary shade, by cutting down all the trees, and thus exposing their country to the rays of the tun, and rendering it destitute of streams and springs : tiiry knew not that in (mall islands encompassed by an immeiiso ocean, the coolness of land covered with trees can alone Stop and condense the clouds, and attract to the mountains abundant rain to furnish springs and rivuliits on all sides. Islands (kprivcd of this adrantage experience a most dread, ful drought, which, by gradually destroying the shrubs and pTauts, renders them almost uninhabitable. •i These people cannot have the same idea of theft which civilized nations have, for they hardly appear to be ashamed of such practices. They were, however, convinced that they had committed an improper or unjustifiable action, or Vol U. No. LXV. 13 fortuna.e mariner the officers were enabled pea'ce their tent, but it was found im possible 'i many take the robbers. They quickly relumed ilh appeared among the multitude as usual, recom- menced the od'crs of their women, and were m friendly as they had been when they first pre- sented themselves. About six in the evening, every thing was rc-embarked, the boats had re- turned on board, and a signal had l>een made ta prepare for sailing. M. Dc Langle gave La Perouse an account of his tour into (he inlerior part. He also furnished another striking trait of the portrait of these inlanders, in the foltow- ing anecdote. A sort of chief, to whom M. Do Langle made a ])rejient of a male and fetnalc goat, received the animals wUh one hand, and robbed him of his handkerchief with the ather f. They endeavoured to allure the Frenchmen by forcing young girls of thirteen or fourteen years of age to come for the puiposes of viola- lion, for which they claimed a stipulated reward-. La Perouse declares that " not a single French- man made use of the barbarous riglit (hiit was given him; and if there were some moments dcr dicated to nature, llie desire luid c<»nsi'nt were mutual, and the women made (lie first advances."' The arts- of the Society Isles were exercised in this country, though in an inferior degree, for vant of raw materials. Their coast appeared not to abound in fish, and the inhabitants feed principally on vegetables. Their chief suste- nance is derived from potatoes, bananas, yams,, sugar canes, and a small fruit resembling grapes, growing on the rocks on the sea-shore. A few fowls are sometimes seen upon the island, but they are not sufficiently abundant to be reckoned among the articles of provision. The natives cultivate the fields with care and why should they have fled to avoid punishment, whiC'Ji they feared, and perhaps thought they merited. Had the navigators continued long in the island, they would certain!/ hi' 'c intlicted such chasrisements on these depredators as W'i'e conimensurato to their crimes, as lenity in the extrcmve might have been productive of disagreeable consequences. The most consummate rogues of Europe are not greater hypocrites than these islanders; all (heir caresses and ci* vilitios arc feigned ; their countenances never express a single sentiment of truth. It was necessary to bo most dis* trustful of that Indian to whom we have been kind and li. beral, and who appeared to be so much under the influence of gratitude as to be eager to return for it a thousand little- serviced. B iageauiiji. 4 ':< ! I PEROUSE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. ^^h ^''^^'.ertilice the earth with grass, 4^uot up, lay in heaps, and burn ; with the ashes of which the soil is rendered more prolific*. SECTION V. Obsen^atims of M. De Langle, on the Manners, Customs, ^c. of the Inhabitants of Easter Island — Cultivation of the Soil, Sgc. — Departure from Easter Island — drrival at Sandwich Island; ^c. -—Departure — ipnii. May, Junk, "'**'^ 1786. MDE LANGLE, accompanied by Messrs. . Dagelet, and sevcrul others, went about two leagues from the shore to the westward, and, proceeding from house to house, visited many plantations of yams and potatoes. The soil of these premises was judged proper for the propagation of their seeds, and the gardener who attended them, sowed carrots, cabbages, beets, maize, and pumkins; signifying to the Islanders, as well as they were able, that they would germinate and produce roots &nd fruits for their support. They perfectly understood the benevolent intention of their visitors, and pointed out the particular spots where they were desirous of seeing these new productions. M. de Langle met with no small shrubs, ex- cept the paper mulberry tree, and the mimosa. After proceeding about two leagues to the east, he returned southward towards (he shore, and perceived, by the assistance of telescopes, a great number of monuments, many of which were overthrown, and in a perishable state. One of the largest measured sixteen feet ten inches in height, consisting of a light porous lava; its breadth over the shoulders was six feet seven inches, and its thickness at the base two feet seven inches. Perceiving a small village, M. de Langle di- rected his course towards it : one of the houses it coutaiiied was constructed in the form of a * Tb« navigators could not quit the Uland without some 4blique censures on the conduct of its inhabitants. " We landed among them," said they, " merely with a view of Tendering them service ; wc loaded them with presents ; we caressed their children ; wo disseminated useful seeds to en. rich their country ; and gave them sheep, hogs, and goats, 4hat they might replenish tho land. Wc demanded nothine in return. — But bow were w« rewarded for our generosity! They threw stones at us, and rubbed us of every thing that ^ On the edge of the crater, on that side towards the sea, o iftttutf almost destroyed hif time, sufficiently proves tftat canoe reversed, and measured three 'hundred feet in length: the ruins of several other ha- bitations were visible. The monuments and ter- races here were numerous; and on some of the stones, of which those terraces were composed, rude sculptures of skeletons were exhibited. Holes were observable, which were stopped up with sim'itar substances, whence it was supposed that they might now form a communication with the caverns containing the bodies of the dead. An Indian, by very expressive signs,' signified that they were first deposited there, and after- wards ascended to Heaven. Several pyramids of stones were ranged upon the sea-shore, and in the vicinity of (nese pyramids some human bones were scaltcrod. In the morning seven dif- ferent terraces were visited, upon which many statuAs were seen, some upright, and others de- faced and injured by time. A mannikin of reed, representing a human figure ten feet in height presented itself: from its neck hung a net, re- sembling a basket, covered with white stulT, which seemed to be filled with grass. By the side of this bag the figure of a child was re- presented, about two feet in length. This man- nikin which, from its appearance, could not have existed many years, was perhaps a model of some statue intended to be erected to the me- mory of some chief f. Though these islanders were hospitable, and fre- quently could be taken away " Under o(her circumstances it would perhaps have been imprudent to show them so much lenity ; but as La Perouse had resolved to go in the evening, he hoped they vould attribute his sudden departure to a dii> approbation of their proceedings, and be induced to act with more integrity on future occasions. ■f At the loiUh end of tbo island was seen the crater § of an old volcano, the the, depth, and regularity of which excited our surprize. Grass having sprung up on tho sides^ tkt volcano ka$ betn extinct for several ages. ■ •wamps PEROUFS'S VOYAOF, ROUND THE WOm.T). 13 mdered mere J of Easter dwich Island, irce 'hundred ul other ha- lents and ter« some of the re composed, re exhibited. 3 stopped up kvas supposed inication with of the dead, gns,' signified re, and after- 3ral pyramids -shore, and ia soiue human line seven dif- I which many nd others de- inikin of reed, feet in height ing a net, re- 1 white stuflf, ;rass. By the child was re- This raan- cc, could not rhaps a model ted to the me- itable, and fre- quently umstances it would u 10 much lenity ; 1 the evening, he parturo to a dii- )c induced to act cen tlic crator § of igularity of which ig up on the sidci) f«i. iwamps aueoily gave the party potatoes and sugar-canes, ley never lost an opportunity of robbmg them, when they could do it safely. Hardly a tenth part of the soil is cultivated, and the lands which arc cleared are without any kind of enclosure : tlie remainder is covered with a course grass, even to the summit of the mountains. It being the rainy season when the party were there, the earth appeared to be moistened about a foot deep. Some holes on the hills contained fresh water, but they no where saw the least appear- aucc of any kiiid of stream, nor did they observe among the people any kind of instrument for the cultivation of their grounds *. The navigators took their departure from Cook's Bay. on Easter Island, the ,10th in the evening. They h)st sight of it the following day about two o'clock, being then about twenty leagues off. The woatlier was remarkably clear till the 17th, and then shifted to the north-cast ; when the crew began to catch bonetas, which attended the frigates to the Sandwich Islands, and furnished provisions for the ships' companies for about six weeks. This salutary food pre- served all of them in good hcallh. Not a sick person was to be found on board either of the two frigates. They traversed unknown seas ; their course being nearly parallel to that of Captain Cook in 1777, when he sailed for the north- west coast of America ; but they were about eight hundred leagues more to the east- ward. La Perouse flattered himself, that in a distance of about two thousand leagues, he should make some discovery : to facilitate which, sailors were perpetually at the mast-head, and a pe- twampt appearing at (he bottom, and the fertility of the adjacent landu, suflicicatly demonstrate that the subterra- neous fireii have been long extinct. Night obliging the party to return towards the ships, they saw near a house a con. (iderablo number of children, who tied at their approach. Perhaps this habitation was the abode of all the youth of the district; as they could not poiiibly all belong to two wo- men who appeared to have the care of them: the little dif. fcrcnce in their ages seemed farther to countenance this ob. serration. On their return to the tents, thoy presented to three of the natives the three different species of animals which they had destined for them. * The most probable conjectures resujipting the govern. Dient of these pe6ple are, that Riey compuse a single nation, which is divided into .is many districts as there are morais ; the villages being erected near those places of interment. The products of the earth seem to belong to all the re- spective inhabitants of the district. As the men, without any regard to doUoacy, offer their women iadiicriminately 8 ciiniary reward oflfered to the fortunate mariner who should first discover the land. After M. Dagelct, in this run, had made many lunar obsRrvutions, which agreed extremely well with tlic, tiiiic-keepors of M. Bcrthoud, La Pe- rouse discovered on the 7th of May, a great number of birds of the petrel species, man of war, and Tropic birds; the last two species df vshich lire remarked for not appearing at any great distance from land. Mtiny turtles wefe also observed passing uloiigside. The Astrolabe caught two of them, which were said to be de- licious. On the liiOth La Perouse passed through the midst of the supposed cluster of Los Majos, without perceiving the least appearance of an island ; on the 28th he saw the moiuitains of. Owhyhee, covered with snow, and afterwards those of Mowee, which are less elevated. At nine be beheld the point of Mowee. He also perceived an island bearing West which the English had not seen, and which was not to be found in their chart, and which in this parti- cular is very defective; though whatever is laid down from their own observations merits the highest encomiums *)*. About a hundred and fifty canoes were seen putting off from the shore, laden with fruit and (logs, which the Indians proposed to exchange for pieces of iron of the Frenih nsivigutors. Most of them came on board of one or the other of the vessel», but they proceeded so fast through the water that they filled alongside. The Indians were obliged to quit the ropes we had thrown them, and leaping into the fea swam after their hogs; when taking them into their arms, they to strangers, it cannot be supposed they belong to any one, in particular. It also appears that, when the childri'ii are weaned, they are committed to the care of other women, who, in every respective district, undL'rtake the tnsk of rearing them. The whole popul.ition may be estimated at about two thousand people ; but it may reasonably he sup^ pused that the population was iriorc considerable, before the trees were d'jstroyed. It does not appear that life is long extended in these regions, for not a single man in the island appears to exceed the age of sixty. five. t The island of Mowee, which he coasted along at about a league distance, had an enchanting appearance: ca^cadis were beheld, falling from .the summits of the mountains, and descending tb the sea, after having laved the nunurous habitations of tlie natives. The tne't which crowned tho mountains, the verdure, and the bananas which emb^lli^h- ed the cabins, all contribute to operate so forcibly on tho souses of tho beholders, that they experienced the most ex- tat'n sensations. emptied u PEROUSR'S VOVAGK HOUND THF WORT.D. )• 1 I |a. 1l '' .« r 1: 1 emptied tlieir oanoex of i\\e wiiter> and resumed (hnir scat. Upwards of tWrty canoes were thus successively overset ; hut though the commerce was Bg^reeable to both parties, no more than fifteen hojB^s, and a small quantity of fruit could be procured. The navigators were deprived of the opportunity of bargaining for upwards of three hundred more hogs, by this ludicrous and vnexpected accident*. La Perouse stood west and north-west to gain tlie anchoriige where the Astrolabe had already brought up, about a third of a league from shore. They lay sheltered from the sea breeze by a high bluff, capped by clouds. The Indians of the villages eagerly came alongside in their canoes, bringing hogs, bananas, potatoes, and stuffs, forming certain partieulars of dress, as articles of commerce. Not choosing they should come on board till the ship was completely at anrhor, tliey were informed that she was taboo f , which they seemed perfectly to understand. M. de Langl.'.', who had not adopted the same ex- pedieiitj had his deck iiistaiilly crowded by them; but they were so do( ile and obedient as to be easily prevailed on to return to their canoes. When permitted to come on board, they mani- fested a fear of giving offence, and in all their commercial dealing gave proofs of their fidelity. They were mricli pleased with pieces of old iron hoops, and had sufficient address to procure them on the most advantageous terms. The night was calm, with the exception of a few gusts, which were of short duration. At dav-break the long-boat of the Astrolabe was detached, with M. de Vanjuas and others, to sound a deep bay, where it was supposed better anchorage might be found, but this new an- chorage did not appear to be preferable to that which they occupied. At eight in the morning four boats of the two frigates were in readiness * F.ach of these canoes coutainrd from throe to firo men : the size was generally about twenty. four feet in length, one in breadth, ami one in depth. One of these dimensions weighed abont lifty pounds. • Willi those fragile re^sels the inhabitants of the islands traTcrsp channels twenty leagues across, like that between Atooi and Wohaoo, where the sea runs extremely high ; but they are snch expert swim, mors that no dangers by water can deter them. As the na- tigators adranced, the mountains seemed removetl to the interior of the island ; and they no longer saw any cas. cades: the trees were thinly scattered in the plain, the villages consisted of only ten or twelve cabins each, and tUo»e wore >ery rcuioic from each other. They regretted to set otf; the two first eonttiincd twenty tnned soldiers, commanded by a lieutenant: M. du Langlc, accompanied by all tho passengers and officers not on actual duty, were in two others. This preparation alarmed the natives, who from the dawn of the day had been alongside in their canoes. They continued their traffic, as usual, but did not follow the party on shore. About one hundred and twenty persons, including both sexes, waited for them on the beaeh. The of- ficers and soldiers were first landed : the latter fixed their bayonets, selected a certain spare of ground, and made such dispositions as would have been necessary in the presence of 'i enemy, These forms did not seem to deter the inhabitants; the women, by the most expressive gestures convinced them that they were disposed to grant them any ac4 of kindness they could require : and the men were anxious to know the motive of their visit, that they might anticipate their wants. Two Indians, who seemed invested with authority over the others, gravely addressed' them in a long harangue, the purport of which they could not comprehend, and each of tlicm presented a pig. M. de Langle, in return, gave them medals, hatchets, and several pieces of iron. His liberality had a wonderful effect ; the women redoubled their caresses, but they wero far from being alluring; their features wanted softness and delicacy; and some traces were dis- covered of the ravages of a certain disease which' they had not long been acquainted with. After having visited the village, M. de Langle- gave ojdcrs that six soldiers, with a Serjeant, should accompany him : the otlicrs were left upon the beach, under the command of M. de Pierrevert, the lieutenant : to them was committed the pro- tection of the ships' bouts, from which not a. single sailor had landed |. The party re-embarked at eleven o'clock in ^________ very the country they had K;ft behind them, and found- bo shelter till they saw before them a rugged shore, where torrents of lava had formerly Oowed. + A wiord whix^h. In their religion, signifies a thing they cannot touch, or a consecrated place, into which they aro not permitted to^ntev. Dtxna gives a rocabulary of the language of the Slindwich Islands, in which the word taboo signifies embargo: though, in his plural, he explains the ceremony of lying under taboo in the same manner as Cap. tflin Cuok has done. :|: Tho soil of this iiiland is principally formed of a de- composed lava, and other Tolcanic matters : the water which tho inhabitants driukis brackish, drawn from shallow wclls^ i n fr an dr the to ro ch« PEROUSPs VOYAGE HOUND THE WOIII H 15 twenty trmrd nant: M. do tassengers and in two others, es, who from nf^side in thoir iflic, as usual, jhore. About including both *ch. The of- ed : the latter rtaiii spare of ions ns would ' of '1 enemy, he inliubitunts; •ssive gestures )08rd to grant :ould require : low (he niutive iiticipate their [| invested with k'ely aJdressed- port of wliich eaeh of tlien» iu return, gave eral pieces of rful effect; the [but they wero atures wanted ces were dis- isease which with. VI. de Langlfr •jeant, should- lift upon the e Pierrevert, tted the pro- which not a, en o'clock in very foiind' no shelter 'here torrents of ifii's a thing they which they are >cabiilary of the the word taboo he explains the manner as Cap. formed of a do- irs : the water rnfroin shalln\r wells* TCry good order, and arrived on board about noon; where M. de Clonurd had received a visit from a chief, of whom he had purchased a cloak, and a helmet adorned with red feathers : he had also purchased a hundred hogs, a quantity of potatoes and bananas, plenty of stuffs, jnats, and various other articles. On their arrival on board, the two frigates dragged their anchors : it blew fresh from the south east, and they were driving down upon the island of Morokinne, which was however at a suQicient distance to give them time to hoist in their boats. La Pe- rouse made the signal for weighing, but before they could purchase the anchor, he was obliged to make sail, and drag it till he had passed Mo- rokinne, to hinder liiui from driving past the channel. As he did not entirely get his anchor till five in the afternoon, it was too latr to shape his course between the islund of Kainui and the west part of Mower: till eight the breezes were so light that he could not run above half a league. At length the wind settled at n()rth- cast, when he stood to the westward. At the dawn of day he btielched towards the south- west extretnity of the island of Morotoi. This island seemed to bo uninhabited in this part, though, according to the English account, it is very populous on the other side. It is re- markable that in these islands the most healthy, fertile, and populous parts are always to wind- ward *. to rilix { SECTION VI. .^i'.v^i!'i I At:- departure from the Smidxiich hlaiids — Siindnj Occurrences — Description of the liaij of Port rles Frimcuin — Manners, Customs, ^c nf the .InUabitants-r-Tri{\}\c iKith them—JvsE, July, HSG. THE fresh stock t^i at had beet) pro^tircd at the Sandwich Islands, afforded an agreeable and salutary subsistence to the companies bf the two frigates ft>r about thr«h;'Vecks. The hrtgs, hwvever, ' could ' not he preserved aliye for want of water and food. The crew were obliged to follow Captain Cook's method of salting them; but the greater number of them were so small that salt only tended to corrode thcro, which rendered it necessary 'to consume them as soon as possible. On the 6th of June the trade winds no longer wells, one of which will hardly furnish half a barrel of water in a day. Three or four tillages presented theni- sulvcs, which contained about ten or twelve houses each ; they arc covered with straw, aud the roofs have two de., clivities: the height of the door is about three feet and a half, and .he habit.ilinns cannot be entered without stoop, ini;: it is shut by a simple hatch, which can be opened with the greatest facility. The fnrnijure consists of mats, which form a very neat covering, upon which they lie down : their kitchen utensils are large calabashes, which they mould to any shape they plea.se while they are green : they also varnish and wrnanient them. Sometimes they glue them together, and form very large vessels of them : and their glue pos. sessed the quality of resisting water. Their stiilTs, of which they have great plenty, were made of the paper mulberry, tree. At their return they wer« harai-^ued by. some women, who presented them several pieces of StufJj Mhich were paid for with hatchets and iron nuilii. Vol. II. No. LXV. accompanied our navigators: of this they were convinced from several circuinstanrrs : the wind shilYed to south-east, and the hkv became dull and whitish. They were much afraid the v sliould soon have cause to regret the loss of the fine weather, which had hitherto preserved them in so excellent a state of health. La Perouse's apprehensions of fogs were quiikly realized. They began on the 9lh of June, and ihoy had no clear weather till the 14lh. The humidity was extreme; the fog, or rain, had pcnctr.ited through all the sailors' cloathing : uut a ray * On the first of June, at six in the evcnitig, he I ;:td cleared all the i-ilands, and had n it euiplii\e(l niorc liian forty-eight hours in examining Ihi'in, and fiT'ern d.iys in elucidating a very important point in geogr.i hy, us it \x. punges from (he French charts five or .^ix inlands wliieh have no existence. The fishes, which had followed ns from I'^aster Island, now disappeared. Ii i< certain that the s.kiio shoal of these aci^atic animals followed the fri^aU's lifleeo hundred leagues: several, which liaJ been wounded by the French harpoons, retained a mark on (hem b) wtiieh they were perfectly known : the people, daily saw anJ recolK-ct- ed, the same fish tli:vt we had seen the preceding night. Had. they not stopp(td at the Saudwich Islands, th>y » t: a. tcmpevaluro which suited them. , ' o-,?,.- 1 • 1. i.L-.. !.;....; ,ii. I ^.: E of \a PER0U3F/S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLDl il i of, een much embarrassed, had not M. dc Langic, assisted by a sailor that hai5 formerly been a milllcr's boy, adapted to the milLstoncs the movement of a windhmill. He first con- trived sails tit be turned by the wind, which he found to be a kind of improvement; but he afterwards introduced a handle, which rendered the project in some degree compleat. By this new metlkod petfcst tout wa» obU^e' aa4 about able after a long voyage, afforded them liltTe satisfaction. Immense heaps of snow, covering a barren land without trees, had no charms for them. I A black rock, of immiense height, des- titute of all verdure, formed a striking contrast to the whiteness of the snovv. A thick fog en- veloped the land during the 35tb, but or. the 26th the weather became very fine, and the coast appeared at two in the morning, with all its- windings. At two o'clock in the afternoon a calm rendered it necessary for La Perouse to come io an anchor. At six in the moriiinu' he had dispatched his long-boat, under the com- mand of M. de Boutin, to reconnoitre (his bay or channel. Messrs. de Monti and de Yauiuaa quitted the Astrolabe f^r the same purpose: and they brought up to wait the return of these of- ficers: the general opinion was that it was sup- posed the woody point of the inland was either a channel, or formed the mouth of a great river. About nine in the evening the three boats, how- ever, returned, and three officers unanimously declared, that there was neither channel nor river; that the coast only formed a semicircular hollow in the north-east, am) that there was no shelter from the most dangerous winds. As M. de Monti's landing was attended with great dif- ficulty, and as he was the comujiander of this little division. La Perouse gave the B^y thp ap- pellation of MoHti Bayf. He then made the signal for getting under way, and as the weather appeared formidable, he embraced the advantage of a breeze to run to the south-east, and gaia an offing ^. Thi» two hundred weight of corn could be daily ground with ease. + Monti Bay is neither more or ]css than the anchorage- of Uixon on the '23(1 of Alay ; m\ anchorage sheltei-cd from all wiiiils, by the corner of an isfand whicli furms a kind of jetty, to which he gave the name of Port Mulgrave. I On the 1st of July, abont noon they wore i;i;ar eiioiiirh to distinguish men, had there been a:.iy upon (he slicre, by the assistance of their perspective glasses ; but (hi'y saw breakers which rendered a landing impossible. A' uvo in the afternoon a falling in of the coast wa^ perceivcil, wliich a jpcared to t)e a line bay. La Perouse disijalclied the j jlly boat, commanded by IM. de Picrrevert to recoi.noitn; it. The Astrolabe a!ao sent two boats for the sauh iv.irpose! commanded by Messrs de Flassan and Bontervilliurs. The report of the gentlemen ltti>t mentioned was so favourable that La Perouse resolved to shape his course towards the passage. He soon perceived Indians, who shewed signs of fHendship by hanging up skins and white cloaks ; and I leveritl PKROUSPs VOYAGE ROUND THE WOTILW. t1 ed ihcm liltTe now, covering 10 charms for e height, dcs- iking contrast tliick fog en- ti, but on the and the coast , wilh all its L' afternoon a shewed signs of ito cloaks; and •eveiitl This port, wTiich had never been discovered by any other navigators, is situated tliirty-three leagues to the north-west of that of Los Reme- dios, and ab.mt two hundred and twenty-four Ican-ucs from Nootka. The calmness of tlie in- terior of the bay we found extremely delightful, and the place was honoured with the name of Port de Frmicais. La Boussole came to anchor in the ba}- at half a cable's length from the shore : the Astrolabe did -the same. M. Boutin having been afterwards sent to sound the bay, found an excellent bed of sand ; afterwards both the frigates gained a good anchorage- While the navigators were cotnpelled to stay at the entrance of the bay, they were continually surrounded by the canoes of the Indians. In exchange for iron * they were ofTered fish, and variet_^' of skins ; as well as sundry articles of dress, and the natives displayed much ability in their commercial dealings, but iror» was more eagerly coveted than any other medium of barter. They indeed consented to take some pewter pots and plates, but they received them with indif- ference. Iron was their favourite metal : a dag- ger of it hung from the necks of many of them. Seeing the ^rencliinen examine these daggers >vith great attention, they intimated to them that they never used them but against bears, and other beasts of the forests. Some of them were formed of copper, a metal not uncommo>i among them, though chiefly used for col'iss, bracelets, and other ornaments. The points of their arrows are also tipped with it. Some of their toys were composed of brass, well-known composition of copper and zinc; a circumstance whi'.'h induced the French traders to suppose the metals tfvey produced came from the Russians, the factors for the Hudson's Bay Company, or several ranors of thi'in were flshint; in the bay. At seven tliey were bcfori; it: the wind was light, and the ebb.tidc so hfroni; that it was impossible to stem it. The Astrolabe was rapidly driren out with it, and the Boussole came to an anchor, to prevent being drifted away by the current, of the direction of whieh Ija Perouso was then i^^iiorant, but when he foiiml that it set towards the otfing, he weighed anchor and rejoined the Astrolabe. * Virgin, or native iron, though very rare, has been found in Sweden, (Jermany, at Senegal, in Siberia, and at the island of th« Klbc^ La Peruusp said he fonnd it at Krba.longa, a village two leagues to the northward of Bastia, the capital of Corsica ; it was spre.id with great pro- fusion in the mass of a rock, situated on the sca«shore, and consUntly ondvr the octacdral form. The existence of native iron is itili further proved, by the examples which from the Spaniards. The love of gold is not more prevalent in Europe than that of iron is in this part of America f. When the navigators had established them- selves ii|ion this island, they were visited by almost all the Indians of the Bay. The report of their arrival having spread itself to the adjacent parts, several canoes arrived tilled wilh otters' skins, which the natives bartered for knives, hatchets, and bar-iron. The sea-otter is supposed to be more' common here than in any part of America. The Astrolabe caught one, which probably had escaped from the Indians, as it was severely wounded. It weighed seventy potinds, and per- haps had attained its full growth. The ^ a- ottcr is an amphibious animal, remarkable for the beauty of its skin. The Indians of Port Francais call it skccter. Some naturalists have noticed it under the denomin.'.tion o^ suvicoviennc, but the description of that animal iu Buffon ha»- no affinity with this, whieh has no resemblance of the otter of Canada, nor that of Europe. On their arri'.al at their second an^'horage, the navigator.s established an observatory on an island within a muskei-shot of the ships : there they pitched tents, and formed a settlement for the tinle they stipposed they should continue ia this port. As all the Indian villagt^s were on the- continent, they Jhouiiht tliey should be perfectly secure upon this litlie island, but they were soon convinced of their inistiike. They indeed knew the Indiaiii weie all thieves, but they did not suppose ilicy Wf'ie such adepts in thievery as to be able to carry on the most difliciilt projects in the art. Ttiey watched every niji^ht *'i)r a favour- able opportunity of comuiittiog their depreda- tions ; and though an excellent ^Uiud Avas kept on boaul, they often deceived their vigilance. exist ill the areatep part of the cabinets of natural history, am! by tho opinion of Stahf, Liniia'iis, MargratF, &c. + On the day of their arrival '• y rec'.'ivei a visit from, tire chief of the principal village; but before he attemptedi to come on board, he seemed to address a ft-rvent prayer to the Sun : he afterwards delivered an elaborate speech, which terminated with melodious sona;s ; the Indians in his canoe accompanied him by repeating the same air in chorus. Most of (hem then appeared on board, and danced \o the sound of their own voices for about an hour. L" Pcronse made the chief several presents, which induced him to berome so troublesome, that he every day continued live or six hours on board: and if these presents v.ero .iMt fre;jnently re* peated, ho went away dissatisfied, muttci tag some threats, vrhioh indeed were not ituch regarded. Nothing. I I hA ^i (■ f Hi I! I » I i '.1 . ^i' t^ , i i H PEROUSE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Nothing was icclaimed that had been stolen, i» order to prevent quarrels, and their disagreeable consequences *. Messrs. de Langle, de Monti, and Dagelet, with several other officers, were anxious to as- cend the ghicier: with inexpressible fatigue, thej attained the distance ot* about two leagues, in the course of which they were obliged to leap over clefts of an astonishing depth : yet they were unable to descry any thing but a continua- tion of glaciers and snow, which lieemed to have no other termination than at the summit of^ JNIount Fair Weather. - i .> SECTION VII. Conliniie at Port dcs Francais — A melancholi/ Accident occurs — Particulars of Departure — Port dcs Francais described — Its Productions— J\''atural History — JManncrs and Customs of the Inhabitants— Their Propensities— Language— July, . 1 ■/ SU. ON the following day the chief came again oil lK)aril the Roussdle ; better attended and dressed than usual ; and, after variety of singing and dancinji:, otlercd to sell to La Pcrouse the islan'i (in wliith the observatory had been placed; meaning, it is presumed, to reserve to himself and his associates the right of plinidcring from it. "Without questioning his right of trans- ferring the property to another, or mentioning a doubt whether he could execute a legal in- strument of conveyance, he accepted the chiefs 'offer; and gave him, as a valuable considera- tion for the land, several yards of red cloth, knives, hatchets, nails, and bar-iron. At the same time he compliraenled his suite vvitli several presents. The bargain being thus completed, he sent to take possession of tie island with the usual formalities. Having taken in as much wood and water as was required, the navigators esteemed thenis«'lves the most fortnnate of men in having arrived at such a distanie from Europe without having a sick person among them, or any one afllicted * This rxccs"! of liMiity rentk'rcd the islaiulers extrcnu-'y insolent, l)iit fja Foroiise ciidoavoiiri'il to convince them of the superiority of (he I''renrh iirins. l-'xperinients .shewing the eflicacy of cannon ami niusi|uet-balls were exiiibiled, and expert marksmen kiiicd (lie birds (tying over their heads. Not intiniidiited, however, by any thing that could he done or threatened, (hoy piirsueil (heir former courses, and compelled La Perouse (o tai;e away (he setdement lie had made upon the island; but before (hey could arconi. piiiih their intention, they contrived, in spite of cen(inel.>>, to carry off n any of (he efleets; and had the address to in- trpdnco themselves into ISI. Ii' in the cavities uf these rocks. had PF.ROUSK'S A'OYAGK ROUND TFTF, WnHIJ). li) l)Iiged to leap pth : jet tliey )ut a coiitiniia- ieemcd to liave lie suiutnit of^ 'tfS iVMy Departure — Customs uf the ble misfortune ug inscription, 11 briffl)' relate event. 5, the frijratcs iled from Brest 1 in this port, sc, comtnaiider lie viscount dc )nd frigate, of iecond captains ler oQlcers and ch are incident ir ship's coui- himself liappy ers, of having to the other, nd of having irous, without rop of blood, in the morn- pose of laying ranght which original moino. Ii ^^ils written all nival ill flic I'orl !t lis suppose a h in the niiilille, ored with sn;»w, I to (icrpotuiil surfiict; of tlii.s iisi) is occ'usioniHl oin five (lillcrciit and the Kiienifj ani the distiiucn some sca-hlrtU, rocks. had bad been made of the bay. They were com- manded by M. d'Escures, lieutenant of the navy, and a chevalier of St. Louis. M. de la Perouse had jj;iven him instructions in writing, which ex- prossly charged him not to approach the current, but at the moment he conct'ived himself at a suf- ficient distance from it, he found himself drawn in by it. Messrs. de la Borde, brothers, and de Flassa, who were in the boat of the second fri- gate, were not afraid of exposing themselves to danger, bv flying to the assistance of their com- panions, but they, alas ! shared the same un- happy fate. The third boat was under the orders of M. Boutin, lieutenant of the navy. This oflicer, contending with courage against the breakers during the space of several hours, made the most vigorous but useless exertions to assist his friends, and was only indebted for his own safety to the superior coii.'^tiuclion of his boat, to his own enlightened prudence, joined with that of M. Lapraise Moulon, lieutenant of the frigate, his second in command, and to the activity and ready obedience of his crew, con- sisting of Jean Marie, cockswain, Lhostir, le Bas, Corentin Jers, and Moners, all four sailors. The Indians seemed to participate in our sorrows, which were extreme. Moved, hut not discon- raged by our misfortunes, we sailed the 30th of July, to continue our voyage. " The names of the officers, soldiers, and sailors, who were lost on the 13th of July, at a quarter past seven o'clock in the morning. " The Bolssole. " Qlficers — Messrs. D'Escures, de Pierrevert, de Montarnal. " (-rcw — Le Maitre, first pilot; Lientot, cor- poral and cockswain ; Prieuf, Fraichot, Ber- rin, B(>lct, Fleury, Chaub, all seven soldiers ; the oldest not thirty-three years of age. " The AsTtioi.ABE. " Officers — Messrs. de la Borde Marchain- * Upon tins lamciifahle i\ nt, M. de la Peronsc declared that his sorrows have siner l.ien frequently aeconipanied by his tears; that time con I I nut assniine his grief ; and that every object recalled to his mind the loss 'hey had siisfained, in circumstances where' such a catastropho could not be dreaded or apprehended. + Our travellers also saw a niorai, by which they were convinced that these Indians were accustomed to burn tlieir dead, and to preserve only the head. This motiuuient con- sisis of four stakes, which support a little wooden cliani- ber, w here the ashes of the dead arc deposited in cofbns ; Vol. 11. No. LXY. ville, dc lu Borde Boutervilliers, brothers, Flassan. " CVciU— Soulas, corporal and cockswain ; Philiby, Julien "? Penn, Pieure, Rabier, all lour soldiers; Thomas Audrieuse, Goulvrn Tarreau. Guillaume Duquesne, all three captains of the tops, in the flower of their age. " At the entrance of this harbour perished twentv brave seamen. " Reader, whoever thou art, join thy tears t» ours '• * By contimn"ng at the entrance of (he bay, more knowledge of the manners and customs of the Indians was acquired than could have been expected at the other anchorage: the ships lay near their villages, which they CaWy visited. Almost every hour furnished fresh cause of complaint against them; though they continued to experience from the navigators the most evi- dent proofs of benevolence and generosity. They brought sonie pieces of the wreck of the boats,, which had been -driven upon the eastern coast, and intimated, by signs, that they had hnried one of the unfortunate suilerers on the shore. M. dc Clonard, and two other officers, on re- ceiving this intelligence, directed their course towards the east, accompanied by these Indians, to whom they had been extremely liberal. The officers were conducted over a very frightful road, by their guides, who demanded a fresh payment every half hour, or threatened to re- turn. At length they fled with pregipitation into the woods, when the officers were convinced that the rep(>rt was fabricated merely to extort presents from them. In this journey thev saw immense forests of large fir-trees ; some of w hiclt were five feet diameter, and seemed to exceed a hundred and forty feet iti height. They were not surprised at the manoeuvres of the Indians, as, upon all occasions, they had manifested con- siderable address in stealing f. they opened these coflins, examined a packet of skins which enveloped the head, and carefully replaced every article, addiuf; several valuable presents. The huli.ins who were present at this visit, seemed rather dLsconcerted, but in. slanlly M'Izcd the presents which the travellers had left. But if those people reluctantly permitted the travellers to visit their tombs, liu-y would not suU'er them to approach their cabiiw, till they had previously removed all their women, who were olijecfs of extreme disgust. Strange Ciuioes dailv entered the bay, and whole villages quitted it, yielding their places to othen. These Indians f lit 20 PEROUSE'S VOYAGE ROU»D THE WORLD. *•■ i 11 i'i II This canoo had timbers and whales like the French boats: the wood-work was extremely well executed, and had a covering of seals' skin, serving as a kind of sheathing, so ingeniously formed that the best European artist could with difficulty imitate the work. This covering was deposited in the moral, near the cofllus with the ashes; and the frame, elevated upon stocks, re- mained bare near this monument. On the yOth of July, at four in the afternoon, La Pcrouse got under way : the horizon was so clear, that he perceived Mount Saint Elias, dis- tant at least forty leagues, bearing north-west. At eight in the evening, he was three leagues to the southward of the bay. This biiy or harbour, to which La Pcrouse gave the name of I'oiH dcs FrcnicaiS; is situated in 58^* 31' north latitude, and 13i)" 50' west longitude. In different excursions, he says, he found the high-water mark to be l.^ feet above the surface of the sea. The climate of this coast is iufinitely milder than that of Hudson's Bay, in the saitie degree of latitude. Pines were seen of six feet diameter, and a hundred and forty feet in height. Vegetaiion is vigorous during three or four months of the year. Plenty of celery, endive, sorrel, lupine, the wild pea, and yarrow were found, which were eaten in soups, ragouts, and sal lads; all which perhaps contributed to keep the crews in perfect health. The woods abound with strawberries, rasbcrries, and gooseberries ; (he dwarf willow, elder, and different species of briar ; the gum poplar tree, the poplar, and superb pines, proper for the masts of the largest ships. The rivers abound with trout and salmon, but in the bay were taken some fictans *, some of arc so much in dread of the channel (hat thov nen-r entered it but iit slack water. By the aid of glass - 't appeared, that when they were between the two poiiifR, a chief or elder rose up, and extended his arms towards the Siiin, in the attitude of addressing prayers to it, whilst the others con. tinned paddlinfi; with great earnestness. The meaning of this custom being required, it appeared that seven largo canoes had been lust there a lillle time before, and the eighth had been with ditTiciilty saved : the Indians who escitpcd this misfortune, consecrated it either to their God, or to the memory of their sutferers. * A flat fish, not unlilic the turhot, but longer, the back covered with blaek scales; those >n Europe arc much smaller. A fish similar to cod, but generally larger. It is easily taken, from its greediness. + This fish rescmbtcs the whiting, but is larger; the which exceeded a hundred pounds in weight. There were also ling, the single thornback, plaice, and some capclansf. 'The navigatori preferring salmon and trout to ail these fishes, were furnished with greater quantities of them that they could consume. They had little angling, and that only with the line : thc) had not leisure to haul the seine, which required twenty-five men to draw it ashore. Muscles wore profusely scattered over that part of the shore which is uncovered at low water, and small limpets are abimdant upon the rocks. In the hollows of, these rocks were observed several species of whelks and other sea snails. Large cockles were also found upon (he sand of the beach J. Nature has furnished inhabitants to (his fiight- ful country, who differ from those of civilised countries, as the scene in contemplation differs from the cultivated plains, of France : as rude and barbarous as their soil is rocky and barren, they inhabit (his island to destroy its population : eternally hostile to (he animals, they despise the vegetable 8ubs(ances which surrounds (hem. Their arts indeed are somewhat advanced, and civilization has made some progress, but their ferocity requires much softening, and (heir ma.n- ners nmch polishing. Their mode of life ex- cluding .all subordina(ion, they are constantly agitated by revenge or fear. Irritable, and prone to anger, bloody quarrels frequently arise. Perishing for want in winter, because they cannot then be successful in the chase ; they fatten on abundance in the summer, as an hour employed in fishing will support a whole family for a day : the remainder of which is devoted to idleness or gaming, to which they are as flesh of it is soft, pleasant, and easy of digestion : it is common on the coast of Provence, and is named the ;jot»r priest, J The hunters discovered in the woods, ])Ienty of bears, martens, and squirrels; and purchased from the Indians the skins of the brown .ind black bear; as well as of the beaver, the ermine, marten, little grey squirrel, Canadiivn marmot, and the red fox. There is no great variety of birds, though the individuals are numerous : the thickets swarm with nightingales, black birds, and yellow hammers. In the pairing time their singing was deligliiful. The white headed eagle was seen towering in thq air, and the largo species of the raven A king,fisher was killed, and % beautiful blue jity. Several sea.birds were also observed, such as gulls, cormorants, wild geese, and the red-footed guillcmor, much Is in weight. 5 thornbark, le navigatora these fishes, ities of (hem y had little tie: fhe) had ich required VIoscles wore of the shofe » and small cks. In (he rved several ails. Large mud of tlie this fiight- of civilized atibn differs le : as rude and barren, population : despise the iinds them, vanced, and s, but their 1 their ma.n- of life ex- ! constantly itable, and frequently ?r, because jhase; they as an hour hole family is devoted hey are as gestion: it is iinetl ihc pour nty of bears, this Indians »oIl as of the cl, Canadian it variety of the thickets uw hainnuTs. Thc'Hhitf. nd the largo illed, and a so observed, rud.footcd >.* 'id':! k .} ;;**»' J* ^ li'"> ■*?'■ fo iHW I* ^L ■Mis ""%!■ T.;^(j%.I '»: m ■"tii m\ \^ ti^. much f il ' -4 u I 'S^.^IIPIJIP^JIHIP^ -W^IF— »^i3»^ i " ■ *,1 e- ■■C ,^- # $ vSv,t7.i?.v-WT?If4fe«rtpt>^-1->-sVn^ ^^nmmmii^ ESX-:; •#. SiBwSS A lii ^' i^ PEROUSE'S VOYAGF, ROUND TMK WOFn.D. 21 tniich addicted as the inhabitants of great cih'es. La Perouse says he has been a witness of the injustice and deceptions of these pe(»ple, who h ive been described as good, Ixrraiisc they arc nearly in a state of nature; but this same niiture is only admirable in her masses, she is negligent of ail details. We cannot traverse woods which the hand of civilized man has not ren- dered passable; or, in other words, we cannot form society with a man who is in a state of nature; because he is barbarous, wicked, aiui deceitful. In (his opinion he a(!kno\vlcdp,es him- self to have been confirmed by liis o,.:i ujc- lancholv experience. But he never exerciKcd the fi)rce which had beeii intrusted to him for repelling the injitstice of these savages, jiud he did not recollect that men have certain establisii- ed rights, which are not to be violated with im- punity *. None of the ships' companies ventured on shore, without being well armed and in force : the Indians were so terrilicd by their firelocks, that eight or ten Europeans could keep a whole village in awe. The surgeon-majors of the two frigates, imprudently hunting by themselves, were attacked by the Indians, who attempted to force their musqucts from them, but without suc- cess. La Perouse gave the name of village to three or four wooden sheds of twenty-five feet * Indians, in thi-ir canoes, continnally snrrnunilcd the frigates; passing two or throe honrs in observation before Jliey began to e.xcliange fibhcs for otters' skins. They em- braced every opportunity of robbitit» us, and tore off siicli iron as niij;ht bo conveniently cohveycd away : and they wero parlieiilarly eiitjaged in forming projects for com. initting depredations in the night. La I'erouso solicited some principal persons among them to come on board Ids frigate, and was extremely liberal to them ; yet these very men wlio had been so favourably distinguished, could not depart w itiiout pilfering a nail or an old pair of breeches. When he caressed their children, and made them small presents, the parents did not seem delighted with his I)eiio. volence; they were only indnred, by seeing these favours conferred upon their ollspring, to ask to accompany I hem when they rame on board, lie often saw the father take advantage of the moment of his fond assidnilics to jjleasethe child, to seize and conceal under his garment whatever hiy M'ithin his reach. When he had loaded the Indians \\ iih presents, he sometimes expressed a desire for a few of their articles of trilling value; but these tiials of their genero. isity were always made in vain. If these people had any i) The inside of the~'> tl-iicUings exhibits a complete phiiiir of (Jilt iiiiiljilth, imioli'iicu and Idiiiu'ns: in one corner arc throxiH the bones, and remaiiiiin; fragments of victuals left 2 in length, and fifteen in breadth ; sheltered only to windward with planks or bark of trees. A fire appeared in the middle, and flat li.slr and salmon were drying in its Kuioke. Eighteen or twenty persons inhabited each of these sheds ; the men on one s^le, and the women and chil- dren on the other. Every cabin seemed to form an independent colony : each of them had its canoe, and a kind of chieff . During the suujiner the Indittns wander in the difierent bays, seeking their provision like seals; and in winter they visii the interior country, hunting beavers and other animals. Dogs arc their familiar !V:end(i ano associates: three or four of them are usually seen in every cabin ; they are small, and not unlike the siiephord's dog of Biiilon: they seldom bark, but hiss like thu Bengal jat kal Compared to other dogs, (hey are as savage as their masters are to civilized people. The men wear different small ornaments pendant from the ears and nose, scarify their arms and breasts, and file their teeth clu^e to their gums; using, for the last operation, a sand- stonj formed into a particular shape. They paint the face and body with soot, ochre, a;. J plumbago, mixeil with train oil, making them- selves most horrid figures. When completely dressed, their flowing hair is powdcrci, and plaited with the down of sea-birds : but per- haps only the chiefs of certain distinguished fa- virtues, he had not siitficieut |)encfra(ion to perceive (hem ; eternally quarreling among themselves, inditTercnt to their children; and above all, tyranis to their wom;>n, who are destined to the most laborious and disagrceabit; cm|)loy- ments. + He ventures to assert t-hat this bay is inhnbited only in the favourable soasou, and that the Indians di'sert it on tlic appioach of winter, as he never saw a cabin that was sheltered from the rain. The canoes were constantly enter, ing and quitting the bay, accompanied with »heir houses and furniture, which consisted of a numb^-r o'' k'imU bi>xes : these boxes are arranged at the entrance of their cabins, which abound with nastiness and stench. For the (icrform. ance of the most necessary occasion, th 'v never remove farther than about two steps, and they neither consult privacy nor shade: should such urgencies ha,ipen during a re|)ast, they coolly take their places again after the e.im. plelionof the business §. Their wooden utensils in cookiry, which are never washed, serve for dish, pl.>to, or 1; •ffe. As these vessels- will not endure fire, they heat tiio water with red-hot tlint.stonos, which are perpetually changed for others equally hot, till the food is ready to be served up. (it their mtaU, in another are heaps of fish, piecqa of stinks ingjieshf grease, oil, iSfc. Dixon's Voyage, 173. m ilic at pi-:no['j^F,'>< VOYAGE ROUND THE woni.n. ■i fi milics arc were extremely disgusting, covered with skins stinking and uiitanned, excited devircs in some of our people of eminence: ihey at first app^-ared coy, started diliieulties, and by their u'^'stures signified they ran tlie risk of their lives; but tluir scruples being overcome by propir pre- sents, they did not object to the Sun's being a witness to thi-ir amours, and peremptorily refused to retire into the wood. This planet is probably the God of these peo|>le, to which they frequently address their prayers : but no priests nor temples were to be seen, nur the least trace of any worship. . ■■,\ i ' ' • *• - 1 ' ' , hearsed f^> w^*iS^ii'>^-^y,i1c,iiV" ■; m^^mmmmm^^im^'^ PEROUSE'i VOYAOR ROUND THE WORLO. 23 Iparsoil a kind of pantoniiraCj renrenenting com- j.its, disaster*, and death. The air which iinhtTcd in the dance was agroeabic, and not dcs- lituto of harmony. French characler« cannot fexpress the language of these people: they have indeed some articulations similar to those of the French, but they are wholly strangers to many )f thorn. The frequency of the letter K, and the double consonants, render t!iis language ex- tremely rough; but it is conuderably less gut- Irel among the men than the \/omen, who fuid jt difficult to pronounce the labials, the piece of Iwood fixed on their under lip operating as an impediment. There seems to be a great aflinity [ill sound between this language and that of iNootka sound; in both the k is the prevailing letter, and appears in almost every word. Though La Perouse admits that he saw no [proofs or traces to convince him that these llndians are cannibals; but the practice alluded to is so g«;neral among the Indians of America, that he should p>*obably have had this trait to add to their picture, had they been at war, and captured any prisoners*. What immediately follows, u La PerouM very justly observes, can only be interesting to navigators and geographers. At length, after s very long run, on the 11th of September, at three in the afternoon, the navigators got sight of Fort Monterey, and two three-masted vessels which lay iu the road. Contrary winds obliged them to come to an anchor two leagues from the shore, in forty- Hve fathoms, and the next day they brought up in twelve fathoms, two cables' length from the land. The commander of these two ships, having been informed by the viceroy of Mexico, of the probable arrival of the two French frigates, sent u« pilots in the course of the night. It is remarkable that, during the whole of this long run, encompassed with tbe thickest fogs, the Astrolabe always con- tinued within hail of the Dous.-)(>lf, and vras never at a greater distance from her, till La Perouse ordered M. de Laugle to reconnoitre the entrance of Monterey, SECTION VHI. Description of Monterctf Bay — Of Ihe Tteo Cdlifoinias — Mamiers and Customs of the independent Indians— C rain, Fruits, and Puise — Quadrupeds, Shells, ^c. — Military Conatitttiion-'JMissions. ■ THIS bay is formed by New Year Poipt to the north, and Cyprus Point to the south: it has di opening of eight leagues, and nearly six of depth to the eastward. The sea breaks there with a roaring sound which is audible at the distance of a league. The number of whales ^vhich are seen here creates surprise, as much as « Captain J. Moarcs has sufficiently proved, in the nar- rative of )iis voyages, that the iuhabitants of the north-west coa,st of America »re cannibals. Variety of considerations induced La Perouse to deter- mine, in case of a separation, to give M. de Langlc a new- rendezvous. He had previously fuctl on the ports of Los Ilemedios and Noutka, and proposed not to go into bar- bour but at Monterey; the last port being preferred be- cause it was the most distant, and a greater quantity of water would be requited there. The disaster at Port de^ Fraitcais occasioned some changes in the staff establishment. M. Darbaud, a midshipman received orders to act as en. sign, and .VL Broudou, a spirited young volunteer, was appointed lieutenant. + The coasts of Monterey Bay arc generally enveloped in fogs, which render it difficult to approach them. With. Vol. n. No. LXVL their familiarity. They firequently spouted at a small distance from the ships, and the water thuB scattered emitted an oftensive stench f. Thetie Indians are small and feeble, but ma- nifest a desire of liberty and independence; Uieir colour resembles that of the negroes who.se hair is not woolly, they are skilful in managing the out tills inconvenience, few would be more easy to land upon. Plenty of pelicans were seen ia the sea : they are a species of birds tliat seldom ai)pear more than five or sw leagues from land. Though our navigators first saw them in Monterey Bay, they are very common over the whole coast of California. A lieutenant colonel, resident at Monterey Bay, is governor of the Californias, including an extent of more than eight hundred leagues in circunjfcrcnce ; but his subjects consist of only two hundred and eighty two cavalry, whp garrison four or five small forts, and furnish detachments to oach of the twenty.five missions or parishes in the two Californias. So inconsiderable is the force to restrain about Qfty thousand wandering Indians in this ex. tensive part of America ; among whom about ten thousand are supposed to have embraced Christianity, , G bow. M PKROUSE'L VOYAGF ROUND TITF, WORLD. bow. Their perseverance in hunting the larger Bnimals iH rcniarknhle. Our navigators saw un Indiiin, with a stug'H head fixed upon his own, proceed on all fours, and imitate the manners of the animal he meant to represent: in this manner the nalivcs perform their parts, till they arrive within a convenient distance of herds of stags, and then terminate their existence with a flight of arrows. Loretto, the only presidency of Old Califor- nia, is situated on the east coast of this pimin- sida, and has a garrison of fifty-four troopers, who furnish detachments to fifteen nu'ssions : the duties of which are performed by Dominician friars. About four thousand Indians, converU'd and residing in these fifteen parishes, are the sole produce of the long labours of the ditlerent re- ligious ordors, wliich have succeeded each other. By Vcnega's History of California it appears that the progress of these missions have been very slow. Spanish piety has hitherto maintain- ed these missions and presidencies at a vast ex- pence, for convpiting the Indians of these coun- tries. A new branch of commerce would be more advantageous to Spain than the rich mines of Mexico; and the climate and soil, together with the abundance of all kinds of poultry, would give this part of America a preference to Old California ; the barrenness and insalubrity of which would be poorly compensated by the few pearls collected at the bottom of the ocean*. The land is inexpressibly fertile; farinaceous Toots and seeds succeed wonderfully in it; corn, pea!!e, and maize, can only be equalled by those produced in Chili: the medium produce of corn is more than seventy to one. The climate is very suitable to fruit trees, though they are rarely found there. Among the forest trees are the ever-gn'en oak, the stone-pine, the cyprus, and the occidental plane tree: tht^rc is no under- wood, a smooth verdant carpet beautifully covers the ground. Vast savaimatis, or meadows, abound with g.inie of every denomination. The ' * Prior <<) ♦(!(' Spaiiii'li siltlpmeiUs, the natives of Caiifor- 'Mia riilfivatt'd only mai/.o, and wen' prinripully Mipportcd by hunting and lisliin!;: iisli and i;'""*' of ••vory (IcnoMiin.-i- f'u'a are extremely plenty in litis »oiintry : su^^t, hares, nnd T.abbifs are iimnrrous : ritters and seals abound in it; to the nortinvard, during the Winter, beaf?, wolves, foxes, und ■wild cat.s are the romriioh spoil. The thickets and plains contiiin hjr(!;e qnantirieR of sinall fjrey tnfted partrid^e.s, ■whirh are fai and deliriously flavonred. The trees nru te- ■iiiitcd by a great Tariety of birds; among which arc tit- land is light and sandy, and is supposed to derive its fertility from the humidity of the air, it being very partially watered: the nearest stream to the presidency is distant about two leagues. This rivulet approaches the mission of Saint Charles, and is called by the old navigators Carinel River. La Perouse, after his digression respecting the missions, proceeds to inform his readers, that, on the evening of the 14tli of September, he an- chored at two leagues from the shore, in view of the presidency and the two ships iu the road. Guns hud been frequently fired to point out tlie anchorage, lest the fogs should conceal it. At ten in the evening, the captain of the corvette L(i Favorite came on board the Boiissolc, and olFcred to pilot the two French frigatws into the port. Li. Princesse, the other corvette, had also dispatched \ pilot on board the Astrolabe. It appeared that these were two Spanish ships, com- manded by Don Estevan Martinez. A small navy was established by the Spanish goverinncut in this port, under the orders of the viceroy of Mexico, consisting of four corvettes of twelve guns, and one goletta. They are destined to supply with necessaries the presidencies of North California; and they are sometimes dispatched as packet boats to Manilla, when the orders of the court require the utmost expedition. The navigators weighed anchor at ten, and anchored in the road about noon : they were sa- luted with seven guns, which they returned; and La Perouse sent an officer to the governor with the Spanish minister's letter, which had been forwarded to him in France before his depar- ture. It was addrcs.^ed to the viceroy of Mexico, whose authority extends to Monterey, a hundred leagues, over land, from his capital.' M. Fages, rommandant of the two CHlifornia.s, had received c;ders to receive the French navigators with great civility and attention, and tiio.sc orders were punctually obeyed;, tlicy did not confine themsclveglo personaKivilitics; oxen, vegetables, and milk were sent on board iw groat abundance. mire, sparrows, speckled wond-peckers, and tropic birds. Those of prey art; the a;reat and .small falcon, the" goss hawk, the sparrow hawk, the white-lieailoii caijle, the blark viiltiin-, the raven, and the lar^o owl. The ponds and sca-shore exhihit to view dilferont speeies of kuHs, the wild-diK-k, the i(rey and whitu pelican with yellow tuffs, herons, bmall sea- water hens, curlews, cormorants, and rins plovers. A bec.eaU'r was taken here, which some or- nothologists allirm to be peculiar to the old Contiuuut. The PF.ROUSR'g VOYAGE UOUND TUF, WOULD. 25 The same eagerness to obli}^ was munifusted by the commanders of tlie two corvettes, uiid the com lamlant of the for< ; eacli of them seemed to claim an exclusive right to administer to the wants of the navigators: and, after adjusting accounts between these Spaniards and Frencii- men, the former could hardly be prevailed on to receive any money as a consideration for the articles they had been supplied with. Vegi:- tables, fowls, and milk, were absolutely furnish- ed gratis, and the oxen, sheep, and corn were so moderately rated, that they uii^ht in a great deujree, be considered as given instead of sold. To these acts of gt-nerositv may be added, the obliging demeanour of M. Fajes; bis house, with ail his servants, was solely at the disposal of the French navigators*. The company were received with all possible politeness and respect: the president of the mis- sions, in his sacerdotal vestment, with the holy water in his hand, waited to receive them at the entrance of the church, which was splendidly illuminated as on their highest festivals: he then conducted them to the foot of the high altar, where Tc Dextm was sung in thanksgivings for their arrival. Before they entered the church they passed a range of Indians: the parish church, though covered with straw, is neat, and decorated with paintings, copied from Italian oiiginals. A picture of Hell is then- re [ircsented, in which the imagination of Callot is absolutely * Tlio holy fathers of Uiu inistiiui) of Suiitt Charles soon arrived at Ihc pn-^idcncy, and invited (he ollkirs of (ho fort and the two frigates to dine »itii them. The latter eagerly accepted their invitation, and a day was agreed on for that purpose. M. Fagcs requested to be of the party, and undcrtvok the (ask of providing horses. After pat^sing over a small plain, where herds of eattic were seen, and in whirh only a small number of treex had been provided to shelter thesuanimalsfrom rain and excessive heat, the party ascended the hills, and were surprised ■.'.th the sound of bells announcing their arrival; the monks haviuii rercivcd intelligence from a horseman detached for that purpose. + These cabins are wretched in the extrone : tht y are round, four feet in heiptht, nnd six in diameter: the timber. work consists prineijially of stakes, and ei;;hl or ten bundles of straw over the whole forms a pretence of defeiidins; the inhabitants from wind and rain : nwre than half tli!" cabin continues open in fine weather. The Indians, however, are happy to have two or three bundles of straw in reserve, in case of accidents: the exhor(a(i()ns of the missionaries could nerer induce them to alter their ntode of architecture : thiy say they delight in plenty of air, and that it is often necessary to set hre to their habitations, when they arc in ilanger of being devoured by myriads of lieas. It is matter, exceeded ; but the senses of new converts must be struck with the most lively impressions. A representation of Paradise, placed opposite to that of Hell, is supposed to produce less etf'ect on them. In returning from church, they re- passed the same row of Indians, male and fe- male, who had never deserted their post during the Tc Dvum: the children had removed a little, and formed groups ruiuid the missionary's house, wlii( h is opposite the church. The vil- lage, which is on the right, consists of about fifty cabins, which form dwelling places for seven hundred and forty persons, including men, women, and children, which compose the mission of Saint Charles f. The colour <»f these people resembles that of the negroes: their store-houses are built of brick, and pointed with mortar; their horses, oxen, and matty other particulars, give this country the appearance of a habitation of Saint Domingo, or some other West-India colony. The people are collected together by the sound of a bell ; arid conducted to their work, and all their exercises by one of the rtdigious. L'nfor- tunatcly the picture is still more perfect: men and women were seen loaded with irons, others were lixed in a frame resembling the stocks; and the noise of the strokes of a whip assailed the cars of all ])reseut, a proof that this punishment is also admitted here, though it is said not to be exercised with severity X. indeed, of no great importance, for they can build anot(icr in the course of a few hours. The independent Indians, as hunters, find it ofteji convenient to change their places of abode. \ The monks give the following account of the govern- ment of the religious community aTiong the missionaries; for no other name can be applicable to them : they are su> periors in temporal as well us ■^piritual alTairs ; and the pro- ducts of the land are under their control. Seven hours in the day are appropriated to labour, and two to prayers. On Sundays and festivals four or five hours are devoted to prayer, and (he remainder of their time dedicated to ' rest and divine worship. Corporal punishments are inflicted on all those Indians who neglect pious exercises, and many of their (-ins incur the chastisement of chains or the stocks. In a Word, from the moment a new convert is baptized, he is considered as if he had pronounced eternal vows; if he should escipe, with a view of returnii)!; to the independent ^illa^^es. he is three times summoned to return ; and, on his refii'^nl. they claim the assistance of the governor, who dis- patches soldiers to force hi'" from the protection of his family,^ aud conduct him to :!.e missions, where he is sen- tenccd to sutler flugolhition with a whip. . The ft Ais these peoj4e are hostile to Vmr ncigUloins, th-^ caimol remove themsckcsfurllur than lucnlj/ m Ihiitj/ kcgius. i I l! Ii ; J I ! I 26 PEnOUSF's VOYAGE ROUND THE WCRT.1-). Tlje Indians, as w^H as the inissioiiari^'s, rwe with the sun, and devote aii hour to prayers and mass; during which time a species of boiled food is prepared for them : it consists of barlev meal, the grain of which has been roasted previous to its being boiled. It is cooked in the centre of the square, in three large kettles. This repast is called atole by the Indians, who consider it as delicious, if is destitute of salt and butter, and must consequently be insipid to a Frenchman. A person is deputed from every cabin, to receive the portion for all its inhabit- ants, in a vessel formed of bark : no disorder or confusion arises in the distribution of the allot- ments ; when the coppers are empty, they give what remains at the bottom to those children "who have most distingui-shed themselves in their lessons of catechism. Three quarters of an hour being exhausted in this meal, the partakers return to their labours; some to plough, others to dig, and others to be employed in their re- spective domestic occupations, but always under the inspection of one or more of the religious. The women have little more to attend to than their housewifery, their children, and the roast- ing and grinding of several grains: the latter operation is long and laborious, as they employ no other means than that of crushing it in pieces with a cylinder upon a stone. M. dc Langle, liowever, seeing this operation, gave the mis- sionaries his mill, with which four women could, in one day, perform the work of a hundred ; and sufficient time would then remain for them to open the wool of their sheep, and to manufac- ture their stufi's. But the religious, almost wholly occupied in their heavenly interests, arc so regardless of their temporal welfare, that they liave neglected to cultivate Ihe common arts, So * The rewards givca are small distributions of ^rain, of which the little cakes arc made, which are baked cii burn, ing coali ; and on grand festivals the ratio is beef, which by many of them is eaten raw, especially the fat, which Hie natives prefer tu the most excellent butter and rheuse. They arc very expert in skinning animals ; and, vh m thiy pcrceUe they are fat, they express a kind of voluptuous plusurc by .;roaking like ravens. Sonietiincs they are per. viUted to iiunt and fish upon their own account, w hcii on iheir rcti-.-n, they usually make the missionaries a present «if a part 'J what they mvc procured. The women rear f }wls in the ear irons of t.ieir cabins, with the eggs of which tacir childriTi arc fed. These fowls, with a small apron of rushes; and a petticoat of stag's skin, which descends to the middle of the leg, is the whole of their apparel. Girla under the age of nine years have only a simple girdle, and boys are completely naked. The Indians of the ranchcries, * or independent villages, arc accustomed to paint their bodies red and black, when they are in mourning : but the missionaries have prohibited the former, though they tolerate the latter, these people being singularly attached to their friends, 'the. ties of family arc less regarded anong them than those of friendship: the children shew no filial respect to the father, having been obliged to quit his cabin as soon as they were able to pro- cure their own subsistence : but they ate infinitely more attached to the mother, who has reared them with '• The Indians, under the control of the mission- aries, b'jliove their superiors have an immediate *Tho io'Ieprndont villages arc sn called. + They neither cat their prisoners, ni>, *''<>ir enemies JMliich thoy have Klitiii iu battle; but wlteii they have >...;- ji|nislied and killed eminent chiefs, or other co'.ingeoiis iineu, they have sometiniofi eaten pieccH of the' a, lusii to I gratify their revenge than to pay hontaije to their valojr ; If'Hily convinced also that such food would inspire tlieii) vitli [additional courage. In the Canailiau style, they sen!p [the vanquished, and piuck out thoir eyes, which they ipreserTc in excellent perfection as. tokous of thoir vie. Vot. II. No. LXYI. communication with GoA, and that (hey (kily pirevail on him to descend upon the altar. Pro- tected,, under this opinion, the fathers live iu perfect security in the viHagcs ; not having evf o their doors shut whilst they are asleep. Homi- cide is iiardly known among the independentK,, und when it does happen it ntily incurs contempt ;, and if a man loses bis life from the blows ■ of several persons, he ia supposed to have deserved his fate, by having drawn so many enemies upon, him. A Spanish commissary at Monterey, named M. Vincent Vassadrc y Vega, brought orders to the governor io collect all the otter skins of his mis-* sions and presidencies, govern'nent having re* served to itself the exclusive commerce of them;, and M. Pages assured La Perouse that he could annually furnish twenty thousand df'them. The Spaniards wt -.e ignorant of the importance of this valuable peltry till the publication of the voyages of Captain Cook: that excellent man has navi- gated for the general biMiefit of every nation; his owp enjoys only the glory of the enterprize, and that of liaviijg gi\.;n him birth |. New California, though extremely fertile, cannot boast of having a single settler: a fe\« soldiers, married to Indian women, who dwell in the forts, or who are dispersed among the diA'urent missions, constituting the whole Spanish nation in this district of America, "i'lie V^rnn- ciscan missionaries arc principally Europeans ; they have a convent at Mexico. The viceroy is* now the sole judge of all controversies in the dif- ferent missioiit-i. Don Bernardo Galves having united all the powers, Spain allow; four hun- dred piasters »<> eiicli missionary, two of which arc appropriii'ed to a parish : supernumeraries rticeive no siiiaiv. Money indeed is useless in a country where PoHiing can be purchased : beads are roiisider, leave had been taken of the go- vernor and missionaries. The navigators carried awaiy large quantities of provision, and trans- ferred the poultry-yard of M. Fages, and that of the religious to the ben-coops of the two fi i • gates. They also received from the relii>-i(>u>t large supplies of grain, pease, and beans: their oilers of payment were obstinately resisted, ac- companied with the followin,^ rcplv — " Thev were tli« administrators, not the proprietors of the property of the missions."'' — On the morning of thc'y4th, they sailed. /;;/'• This section is f lUowitd by an account of some aittronomical observations; remarks on tfa( ac- curacy and use of, time-keepers, and a vocabut laiy of the laitgujige of the difllrrut colonies adjacent to Monterey. SECTION IX. -^i** -Jf- t'^^fi^-tJ i^ •• • C *! Montcreii — Discover .Veckcr's hland — In Danger of pen'shiiig on a Sunken' Jiork — .S'. rch 'i» after the Isles de la Mira and des Jurdins-^Lfii^criplioh of thcJslaud of Assumption — Anchor ^ in the If and at JMacao—^Arrixal at Macao — JJescri^Aiim of it — Depart un' from it- -Landing vn ti the Island of Lnconia — Enter Manilla jiajj—^lnihoragc at Cavite — '«.»/ ,i^ii(<'n, ■>»»>,<») i^i'a:*.'Jt.U; o,\o' THE object of La Perouse's voyage being new discoveries, and the progress of naviga- tion in seas not much known, Ik; a* ',ded the frequent tracks. He was obliged, however, to keep in the zone of the trade winds, as, without their assi.'itance, he could not reach China in six months; and consequently could not ])wrsue the ultimate design of his voyage. Since the taking of tlie Manilla Galleon by Admiral Anson, and «ven during the course of two ages, no progress has been made respecting the knowledge of this sea till the discovery of the Sandwich Islands; the Resolution, tbe Discovery, the Boussole, and the Astrolabe being the only ships which have tieparted from the tracks foWowcd by the galleons for a ptriod of two iiundred years. * Of wood anil water .T'compef-Mit mipply was prociirptl ; t^c botanists lost no opportiiiiity of rndcarouring tu iiu croasi! their cjllcrtioii of plants, but tlie Fciuon was very unravourablo. The miii(*raloi;ist.s were as zealous and al. must as uufortiiiiatv [as tlic botanists: they found blockii of o Calms niid contrary winds detained La Perouse two dayt- in sight of jMonterey. Afterwards noting the U);iii;itudeas.signed to the I^land Nostra Seiiora de la tiorta, he entertained less hope '^! I ,<^ meeting with it, than of blotting it out f -m the charts; for islands improperly determined ; ■ specting latitude and longitude, had betti < main in oblivion till accurate observations have actually been made. On the '.lA of November the frigates were surrounded with noddies, terns, and man-of-wiir birds; and on the 4th they made an island which bore west. At five in the morning of the .5th, they were only three leagues from the island, ami La Perouse hailed the Astrolabe to make sail a- head, and prepare to anchor. granite, some fragments of porphyry, but no rue of nictfll. Shells are nut abundant : oysters wore fou i.l, the pearls of which equal in sizo auU beauty those of Cc^loii; ur thc'Gulph of Persia. Tins % PF.IlOUSrC's VOYAGK ROUND THE WORLD.' be iftken on every thin_s>^ was ikcii of the go- vigators carried ion, and (rans- [<'as^v3, and (hat i of the two fri- ll tlie religions uid boans: their e\y resisted, ac- reply — " They c proprietors of Oil the inornint^- arcount of iioinc iirks ou tb( ac- , and a vocabu-. ifllrfut colonies I nplion — Anchor it~-LaH(Uug vn HBi:«, 178ti— lied La Peroiisc Afterwards le Is! and Nohtra lod h'S!) hope I ng it ont f '; determined had bctti '^ i (servations have ac frigates ^ver(• and man-of-wiir an ishind which in"; of the oth, the ishind, and to make uail a- biit no 'iM- i)f rs won; foiri.U t!.i". those of Cc^loii; This 29 This small island is little more than a rock of abont five hundred toises in length. Not a tree is io be seen on it, but a great deal of grass is visible on the top: the rock is much distigured bv the dung of various birds: the extremities of it are perpendicular like a wall, and the sea broke aronnd it witli such violence as to reader it impossible to think of landing. La Perouse named it Isle Necker: during the diiy men were (Continually occupied in looking out iU the mast head; the weather was squally, with rain: at r>nn-set it was fine : birds iiiimuierable were moving around them in ditlercnt directions. At the cK>se of the evening, the moon being at full, it was so light that they thought they might venture to stand ou. From the time of quilting M(mter'^v to the present moment they hud not known a finer night or a smoother sea; but these flattering appearances bad almost occasioned the destruction of our navigators. About an hour jKist one in the morning La Perouse saw breakers lit two cables' length u-head of the ship; the sea being : o smooth, the sound of them was hardly hrard : the Astrolabe perceived them at the same time, though at a greater distance from tbein than the Boussble; both the frigates instantly hauled to port, with their heads to the south- east. L'l Perouse gave orders for sounding: they had nine fatlionis, rocky bottom ; soon after ten and twelve fathoms, and in a quarter of an hour got no ground wi 'i sixty fathoms. They had just escaped the most imminent danger to wliicli navigators can be exposed: hap|iily lio disorder or confusion arose; for the slightest negligence in working thte ship, io remove our- »irives froin the breakers, must have accelerated «ur destruction. For almost an hour they saw lie continuation of these breakers; but they st't'tched away in the westward, and lost sight of them in about three hour-;*. » JIail not tliis r<>'-k bwn ini;re particularly rocoimoitor- t'll, il> 'its would inriiaps have ri'maiiwil with respect to the ri-ality of its o.xisteiice ; but La Perouse, anxious that na\l^atiirs .sliuuld no longer bf exposcil to it, made a signal, at day-break, to tack and find it once more. Alright in the luorniu!; lie saw it in the north. north-west; he rrowded rail to near it, and soon perceived au inlet or split. rock, the diameter about iifty toises, and near twenty.five fa- thorns in hejght : it was situate upon the north-west ex. ifeiuity of this reef of rocks, the south-east point of w hich tiad so nearly proved fatal: it extended about four leagues iu that point of the compass. He perceived, between the islet uiid the south-east breakers, three sand banks, not elevated more than four feet aborc the level of the sea; a After some judicious obserratioi>s on the know- ledge use, and existence of the trade winds^ La Perouse observes that be had directed his course with an intention to pass between Mira Island, ahd Desert and Garden Islands; but be declares , Vt.«i Aih;.!V''"S ■■■p m PmOVSE'^ YOYA.GE ROUND THE WORLD. ■' h :f. bawg.Alwav* Cftpped«riUv a heavy <5loadr 'Hut sipji^ke CQttW not he percQured, the; sulphur which ]:^D|i'e||;f^tl3r, fainted th&iOiisek mffioieatlj proved t)|^ it y^!i^ mt quitei exitinBtyt or tiiat the last e^lip^op pf 4t !Wa4 at no remote petidd 1 ^oFtunatQly no $uppijr of water was required till vye reached Cluna : the.sailon saw none of this valuahle fluid hut in the hollows of the rji^lu, yrhere it was preserved as ia a vessel, and the most capacious of theih did not contain two gallons. i)uring the night an immense quantity of bii^ds surrounded the twa frigates; which "W^re supposed to be the inhabitants of the Mangs and Uracadj which are' only rocks. Most of thfm were species of man-of-wari birds, and nod-' 4ie9,. with some terns, gulls^ and tropic birds.; The Boussole now, for th Sr«t time, made a litt^; Walter, which La Perou. -• «(ed to the decay of the oakum about the se^ i the water- line. It was uot ])os8ible for the caulkers to re- gul|(te this work at sea, but it became tlieir first employment after the arrival of the. ships in MfjCaoTAadf. ha. Perpuse did not mean to touch here, the B^^shees having before been often visited, and haying nothing particularly interesting^ liaving (leterniiued the position, he continued his course tow^rd^. China; and on the first of January, ITi^iT, be found bottom in sixty fathoms: a num- * Froiri every circnnistancc it appeared that neither human crcattfre, nor qiiadniped, has ever songht an nsylum on this island. A few large crabs were indeed percoired, one of n^hich was taken qn, board: it is more than prolMble that this crustaccQps animal has forced the sea.birds from tnc island, by devouring their eg{;s, which ihny always lay ubon land. At the aVidiorage \vc only saw tlirre or four noddies, but M. de Langle, while upon AsttninpHun Island, lulled a bird of a black colour, not uiiiike ivhit' is generally t^jped a black bird. The naturalists found several fine shells iu the cavities of the rocks : several plants M-crc also rollncted, and three or four different species of the banana frees. No other fwlies •wike seen than the red ray, the small shark, and a .sea.^er. pent about three inches in diameter. The cocoa-nuts and 4B(j few objects of natural history wo had procured, had cicbosed the boats and their crews to serious dans^urs. M, Boutin, w)io was under the necessity of throwing himself into the sea,' to debark and get on board again, hud been Wdunded in the hands bv leaning on (he sharp edged rocks, \rhUh Tic could not possfbly ;i void. M. do Langle also got tlic tleUifr of severa) imminent risks inscparal^Ie from landings od^Such small islands, especially of so circular a form, '■(■ On the 28th onr navigators made the I^ashee ^ Islands, of which Admiral Byron has given an erroneous account respecting longitude : that of Captain Willis, is more correct. her of fishing boats surrounded him the next day; but their attention was divierted from oUK navigators by •xtreroel}' bad weather. Besides, their mamior ' of flashing would uot permit them to gratify tljeit curiosity by a transient visit: they were using vfery long neta, which they dragged over the bottom, and which required twa kSurj to haul it up with dexterity. On the HA of Ja- nuary our navigators made the White Rock. In the evcniag they andhored to the northward of Ling-ting' Island, and the following d^iy. in Macao 'Road. Cloudy weather had prevented ua from per- ceiving the town, but at noon it cleared up: and the navigators made it firora tlic west a degree south abowt three ksagues. La Perouse seat a boat on shore, commanded by M. Boutin, to in- form the govwnor of his. arrival, aud that he intended to continue m the road in order to re- fresh the ship's companies, M. Bernardo Alexis deLemos, governor, of IVIacao, received this of- ficer with great politeness, and promised him every assistance within his power. He iuime'^ diately aeut a Malay pilot on board, to conduct them to the auchocage at Typa. At day-break they got under way, and at eight brought up in three fathoms and a half, the town of Macba bearing north-west five miles ;}!■. The Chinese trade with the Europeans to an : inunense They passed within a lejiguo of the two rocks which arc most to the southward: they ought ■ I'athef tu be called "islets, without rcgardifig the authority of Dampior; the least of them ibuing hi^lf a league in cirunnifersiicc: and though nut Mropdy,,,if copt»iivi plenty, of grass oq t|ie east.sidf. + The navi^tors dime to an anchor alongside o^ S K lench ^ atongfide of a erVt ensign in tiM A. dc lUcheiy had Maluy pilot, and pulse, fruit, and I as the ship was M. Ac. Lanffle, to . Bontin, and on. on shore, that ho s rcci'ivcd them as sted was instantly c ; and, as he was lis wife, an ainia. took the office of , twclfc years be- \ after which I.a i Seiti^, happened m of ttitt circnm. his memory, and Id acqnaintanco." Then itiitg liquor. Wfi i U P a{)ii Jorf, ions 11(1 flieii, II red LT fli lies ; I prid* l>lvfd |Jic w i;tiir( atlifi (arms elev 3a, Id no V(> -^fPpHPq H r P «f P^ i,"l IP I WWm^ 'IM ■ PKROUSK's VOYAGls: llOUXD THK WORLb. 31 . 5; V. G < < 1 1 I in [jmmrnsc ainomit, upwards of one third of which lis paid in silver, the rest in English cloth, Ba- tavian (in, opium from Patuii, cotton from Ben- gal and Surat, and in sandal wood and pepper iVoiii the coast of Malabar. Many articles of luxury are also carried from Europe. In c\- whicli are in a neglected state, would nof be regarded by Europeans, tiiough tlicy arc .suH-i- cieiit to awe the wliole maritime forccH of tlie Chinese. A mountain also commands the coun- try, on which a detachment mia^ht hold out a very long siege. The Portuguese of Macao, hlieir black and green tea, and some chests of [raw silk for the European nninufactures. Their jciiina ware, with which they ballast their ships, land from which they derive very little prolit, is [too miimporlant to be noticed. There is not a Inatiou in the world that carries ou so advaiita- !,cous a commerce with strangers as the Chinese, jiior one that imposes such hard conditions, vexa- Itions, and restraints: every cup of tea, drank in |]uirope, has created some kind of humiliation to those who purchased it at Canton, and who have llteailed over half the frlobe to bring this fasci- lating leaf into their markets. The following renume fact will illustrate the Chinese charac- An English gunner, making a salute by rder of his superior olHccr, killed a Chinese slierman, who had imprudently, and without he knowledge of (he gunner, placed himself ivithin the range of the uuisket. The Governor f Canton deuianded and obtained the gunner, n a promise that he would do him no injury, ecliiriug- he could not be guilty of such iu- ustice as to punish an involuntary homicide. clyinu,- ».r. this assurance, the unfortunate man as di'iivered up, and about two hours after- anls he was hanged. Aiacao, situate at the mouth of the Tigris, is apable of receiving a sixty-four gun ship into s road, at the entrance of Typa; and in its ort, below the city, ships of seven hundred >ns half laden. The entrance of (his ])ort is cfended by a fortress consisting of two batteries, id three small forts. These fortilications, cliango for these the Chinese give nothing but i thinking more of their religious than their mili- tary duties, have erected a church on the ruin* of a fort which crowned this niountuin, and formed a post almost impregnable. The Portugiuvse limits extend ho farther than about a league frcnu the city : they are bounded by a wall, and guarded by a few soldiers, under a manderiu. This manderiu is iudeed the real governor of Macao, and the person to whom the Chinese owe obedience. lie has not the privi- lege of sleeping within the enclosure of the limits, yet he may visit the place, inspect the custom-houses, &c. And on these occasions the Portuguese must salute him with five guns. But no European is permitted to set a foot on the Chinese coimtry be^'ond the wall : an attentpt of that kind would subject any person io .'e mercy of the Chinese; for such an indiscreti'^'n large su;ns might be demanded of him, or he might sufl'cr detention as a prisoner. Some of the oflicers of the frigates wantonly exposed themselves to this risk, but it fortunately hap- pened that no serious consequences arose from their levity*. The viceroy of Goa appoints all the military and civil ollicers at Macao. The governor, and the sciiiitors are nominated by him. He has lately appointed the garrison to consist of ono hundred and eighty Indian seapoys, and one hundred and twenty militia: the soldiers are armed with staves, the oHicer onl, being per- mitted to \M'ar a sword; but, on no occasion to Use it against a Chinese. If a robber of that nation is detected in breaking open a door, or Ihcn, callini; all her rhildruu into licr jircspncc, sIii- as. grud liiin that it was tiius she always prosoiiti'd hcrsolf to fir frioiuls; (liat their t'diration was the ol)ji-ct of all her ^ivs; tliat sht; w us pruud uf callini; herself their inotl.vr, tpridt! which slio trusted hu would forgive, as sho was re. »lvi'd to iutroiliire hcnsclf to her f'ricmds with all hor faults, iiie wltuli! iiiiivor.su could not exliililt a. more enchanting ielurc: the (iuost of children, saluted and caressed by a lotlier of the most amiable deporiivient. To lier personal liarms and private virtues, she added a firm eharacier, and elevated mind. Thf adiniuistration of M. do Lemon at loa, would have been highly adTantaj^eou!! tu that colony, M ((uvei'iiuu'.nt continued hiia iu tb>t( di^tiufuishcd ufiicc Vol. U. No. L.Wl, for a linger lurtn tliaii three } ears, and jjiven him time to accustom the Cliiiiesc (o a resisiauce of wliitli they h.ad even lout the reeolleelion. *■' The po))ulation of Macao is psdinatcd at twenty thou, saud, tif whirl) about one hundred are Portuguese by birth ; two thonsaiul rort(if;ue-.e Tudiaus, suburb of Saint and three con- ad a biuidsouie le bunds of go* \ now alitiust a our npviv^atdrs npiinied bv sc- capital. 'j'lu'v I armed on ac- t IVInnilla \Va\ . detained tbeni rds sent nn of- 'sidenre of the ; several oidors. : the heat was d strap tlicir lom>r h iiodvtay, ns they OTision, for wliich lilla. r:- excessive, ■I PrnOTTSfl's VOYAGE nOUND THE WOKLT), 35 lexcosiive, and they were on foot in a city where inon«of the inhabitants ventured out without h carriage; but none were to be hired, as at Ka- taviii: had not M. Sebir, a French merchant, who accidentally heard of their arrival, scut them his coach, they would have been ffnder the ne- cessity of relinquishitig the several visits Ihev had cngnged to make *. Manilla is erected on the bay which also hears its mime, and lies at the mouth of a river, being one of the finest situations in the world: all the necessaries of life may be procured there in abundance, and on reasonable terms; but the cloths, and other manufactures of Europe, are extravagantly dear. The great possessions of the Spaniards in America, liave not permitted the government to attend minutely to the Philip- pines. La Perouse confidently asserts, that a great nation, without any other colony than the Philippines, which would establish a proper goverinnent there, might vie?w all the European settlements in Africa and America without envy or regret. These islands contain about three millions of inhabitants, and that of Luconia consists of about a third of them. These people seerfi not inferior to Europeans; they cultivate the land with skill, and among them have ingenious gold- smiths, carpenters, joiners, masons, blacksmiths, &c. La Perouse says he has visited them at their villages, and found them affable, hospitable, and honest. The Spaniards indeed speak contemp- tuotisly of tlipsn, but the vices they attribute to jthe Indians, may with nior'e propriety be placed [to the government established among themf. * The city of Munilla, iiu liidiui; its environs, is cxtcii- tUv, and the population i* cstiiniitod ut thirty.ciglit thou> rtand, not inure than twelve hundred of which arc S'paniards; the ri's' are coinposi-d of Mulattoi-s, Chinese, or Indians. The most incons'idorablu of the Spanish fauiilirs urc not I 'without n Citrriaire. The neigbbourliood of iManilla is t.'uly 1 Uclit{htf ul, seated on a beautiful river, branching into dif. [feront thannels, titc two principal of which are received [by (he Lagoon, ur Lake of Bahca, sevca leagues within tiic country, surrounded by more tlian a hundred Indian LTillagei, and in the midst of a fertile territory. -I- .Some streams producing gold-dust, in the ncighbour- [)iood of the Spice Islands, were certainly the temptations which occasioned the settlement of the Philippines; but the produce has not answered the expectations that had been formed of it. Kr.;husiaim superseded avarice, and multi- tudes of religions, of every order, were sent thither to disseminate Christianity. So earnest and successful were these pious labourers, tiiat theto islands, in a very short i time contained ci^ht or nine hundred christians. Had this Vol. U. No. LXVIL Many oppressive distinctions are here sup- ported and established with the harshest severity ; the number of horses to draw carriages is fixed for persons of every rank; those who have (he grentest number take precedeiioe of all other* travelling on the same road ; tliey being compelled to summit to the mortification of keeping in a line behind their carriages. But the vices and vexations rcMiiltitig from this government havfc not totally destroyed the advantages of the tli- mate: the peasants display an air of happy cheerfulness, beyond what is generally observed in European villages; their habitations, shaded by luxuriant fruit-trees which require no cultiva- tion, are singularly neat and picturesque. A late impost on tobacco is considered as ;» ter- rible scourgo u])on the people: their fondness for this iiaiTotic is :o excessive, that haidly a man or woman is to be seen without a wiiur'^, in the mouth; even infants are pcrmitt'd to con- tract this habit. The tobacco produced in the island of Luconia is the best in Asia : it is cul- tivated round every hoiLse, for the consumption of its inhabitants, and is transported, by per- mission or stealth, into every part of India. The prohibitory law lately promulgated re- specting this favourable plant, confines the cul- tivation of it to particular districts, M-here the advantages resulting from it are to be appro- priated to the use of government. The price has been fixed at half a piastre a pound, in con- sequence of which the pay of a day-labourci- will not permit him to procure a sufficient quan- tity of tobacco for the consumption of his own family. Insurrections were menaced in every zeal been tinctjrcd with prudeucc and philosophy, good consequences might have been expected, but the people were subjected to the most ridiculous and extravagant practices; every sin was ptinishod with whijipintf, in pro. portion to the priest's idea of its enormity ; the punishment for non ? "i i part of the island, and' troops were employed to su{)pres!i them: an army of custom-house of- .kers were appointed to prevent smuggling, and to compel the consumers to purchase it at the national offices. Many of them have indeed been massacred, but speedy vengeance for their deaths tva« the certain retaliation: fev»rer for- wialities are required in the conviction of the Indfans, than in that of other citizens *. CofFet, sugar-canes, cotton, ana indi;?o, grow ♦here without cultivation, and it is generally believed that f!ieir sjiices would not be inferior to those ol the Moluccas: a general liberty of commerce for all nations woiild command a sale which would encourage the cultivation of them all; and a mod 'rate duty on all articles exported would soon defray the expences tiiat governnient miglit sustain. The navig-'+ors remained only a few hours at Manilla, and the governor, having taken leave «f them immediately after dinner, to indulge in bis afternoon's nap, they visited M. Sebir, from whom they had received the most osee:it«al ser- vices, during theii continuance in l^'anilla B^iv About eight in the evening they r:;turned to their frigates; but being apprehensive that it would be necessary to send an officer to take up his abode at Manilla, to accelerate the repair of the fri- gates, to procure necessaries, &c. they norai- iiated M. Vaujaus, lieutenant of the Astrolabe for that purpose; but M. Consoles Carmagnal, intenf^ant of the Philippines, generously took that task upon hisnseif, daii inspecting the pro- gress of the workmen, and every other matter of importance, with care, vigliaiuf, and activity. He even open«^d his cabinet of natural history to the officers of the frigates, and bestowed on our navigators a complete dou!)le colloctijn of the shells which arc found in the Philippine seasi-. The labours at Cavite being finished, the boats built, the sails repaired, the rigging overhauled, and the salt provision barrelled up, iic. objec- * Thr picture which might ha drawn of tlic slate of Ma. nilla, in a rory short time, would be very different from that of its present state, should t'le Spanish government adopt a better constitution for tl'o Philippines: the lu ml is rapab'e of prodiicinj; the most valuable articles ; a proi)er nuuiber of persons in the ishtnd of Luconia, with duo rn- courugcnient, might cultivate it to intluite advantage. " The climate" says la Pcronsi;, " will .allow the produce of ten crops of silk i>: a year, whilst that of China gives but a faint pronilsi^ of *wo." i The 8htp'« companies began to cxprrlcnce the disagree- able coascqueaccs of the cxcebsirc heats of Manilla : some tionswere made to the last mentioned nrtirVj La Perouse M-as unwilling to trust to the \ .t - tualing agents of Manilla; he knew that \hr. salt provision of the galieons would burO.y keep good for three months, and coiifiiicutly relied on Captain Cook's nietliod; a c(>^>y of which was remitted to every Salter; and lliey were superintended by several oflicers. Tlwy had salt and vinegar on board which they brought from Europe, and they purchased hogs from the Spaniards on very reasonable terms. Before they sailed the navigators thonghi it their duty to wait upon the governor-general, to thank Jiim for the great dispatch v,U^-' which his orders had been executed; aim .>Ian(l of Formosa; and experienced, in the dianiiel which divides it from that of Luconia, some very of the sailors were seized with colics, which rore not Iidw. ever of an inveterate Kind: but Messrs. de L.imanon iind ])ai:;rcinont, who had received the first attacits of a ih-- sentery at Macao, grew daily worse; and M. liaigreinout died on the '2r»(h. Ilo was the second person who had been deprived of life by sickness on board the Astrolabe. Dis. regarding the advice of his physicians, and without the knowledge of his friends and iissociates, he was determined to cure his diiease with Jiurnt brgs iiible terms, tors thouglii it •nor-^cneral, in xh wiib wliiclj iiiu .-it J! njoro (?» intcndaat^ w'iO sentiiil services, lonsumcd about djaeent to Ma- uiialiy convened tivatcd with the lis; but nature simple Indiiiu and a bouse in A-ith a niaguitl-' ing of the most be vne of the if a more ra> pvernuieiit were Manilla have le direclioii of ut the garrisou to the French )tb as tlie Ma- iled, and f»()l uennia. Thev iiidcr Kormosit. der llic it-lard iule the island II the (iiannel nia, some very icli rorr not how- do Lamanon iind attacks of a ily- il M. ])ni^r(ihi|i wrecks. The tack they then stood on conveyed them ujjon the coast of Formosa, near the entrance of (he bav of Old Fort, Zealand, where the city of 'raywaii, the capital of thut island, is seak'd. "■The land and sen brucwos i-iutiU'd the navigators, the ' i\c\t day, to ^ct ten loa^iius. tu thu northward, when tliuy I (HMctivc'd the ('hlnt'su army at tlic mouth of a (;rrat riTcrr ,»li(v came to an anchor abreast of diis river, iu thirty-seven fiitliunis. It was imj)0!>siblu tu ascortain tho uumbur vessels ; some of them woro under sail, others at r .-inrlior on the ronst, and a great tiuinlwr of tlicm in the Lrivir. The admiral, covered withatkultiplicity of flags, was ithc farthest in tbi: otlinfj. llecame to an anchor at ajleaguc ^ to the eastward of the French frigatcit: ni^ht arriving, lio 'hung nut lights on all hiv masts; those rosseU which wore ubli;;rd io pass by the frigates, in order to join their com- niander, were cautious of coming witiiin the reach of their l^iiits, not knowing whether Ihey wcrofricads or ooemies. Having been iiifDrniod of the revolt of (hat Chinese colony, aii'i that an anny of twenty thousand men under the santog of (!aulon, had been dispatched against it. La Perouse rciolveij to sacrifice a few days vo learn the particulars of this event, and cainc to an anchor to thtj westward of the bay. He thought it imprudent. to send his boat on shore, as siispieioiis niigiil arise in the state of war in which this Chinese colony was then engaged; he therefore drew alongside some Chinese boats, which were sail- ing within his reach. As a powerful tempta- tion, he shewed tbera some piastres, but the inhabitants of these islands were not {)erniittcd to have any communication with strangers. Only one man could be prevailed on to come on board ; whose fish were instantly purchased at his own price, to induce him to give a favourable ac- count of our navigators, should he venture to acknowledge that he had comiutinicated with them. No person could guess at the meaning of any of the answers given by these fiahei'mcn to the questions which had been proposed to them, which they certainly did not comprehend. The language Of these people bears not the least re- semblance to that of the Europeans, but a kind of pantomimic jargon, accompanied with iii- rlinations of the head, and other emotions. Convinced of the impossibility of having his curiosity gratified,, La Pr>-ouse resolved to get under way the following:, day, with the land breeze. Several lites appearing upon the coast, he supposed they were meant as signals, aud that he had created an alarm*. Thus rircmnstanred, and convinced that the channel between tho islands, and the banks of I''«)rmo5a, did not exceed four leagues in width, it would have been dangerous, in such dreadful The weather becomine; extreiiu'ly bad, accompanied with a fog^ the Ohinese admiral ran before the' wind into the river, aud li.i IVrousc iiattored himself that he should be abtc to double the Pescadores, or I'ons-hou Islands, by keeping the ship's head to the north-west ; but, to his great astonishment, he pernivcd, at nine in tiie morning, several rocks, pnrt of a group of Jshiiuls, bearing north, north.tvest: the breakers whieii surround them were hardly distinguishable from those ociasioned by the Fca. He tack* ed, .and stood towards Formosa ; and at noon the Astru^ labe, which was uiicad, made a signal I'lr twelve fathoms : the Doussolo Roundi'd, and foiind forlv: hunct; it appcuit that, in the uiiianre of a quarter of a ioaguo, thero was- A thoaliLg of foitT fatlioms to twfltu. . , .%Ltt4l!IH/.. u. ■.* , ^'^l* ^' I ?! !l! *- i i ■ if i' 9:1 III ^ 111 { ll I '! I , !l II 1 'f ! f .•^S PFROUSE's VOYAGE *■ — ROUND THE WORLIX weather, to ply to windward during the night, and in so rough a sea; La Perouse determined to bear up, that he might run to the eastward of Formosa. These islands consist of a heap of rocks, as- suming a variety of shapes; one of which exactly resembles the tower of Cordouan, at the entrance of Bourdeaux river. Among these islets five -M'lnds were enumerated of a moderate height, jiaving the appearance of sandy downs, without any trees upon them. The next day a violent squall of wind was experienced, which only lasted till ten o'clock in the evening, having been preceded by an abtindant rain. Daring the night the sky was continually in a flame; the most vivid lightning darted from every point of the horizon; but only one clap of thunder was heard. The whole ot' the next day a dead calm occurred, in mid-channel, between the Boshce Islands, and those of Botol Tabacoxima*. La Perouse made each of them a present of some medals, and a piece of nankin: but it was very apparetit that these islanders did not quit the coast with an idea of traffic, for they had nothing to offer in exchangt) for these presents: they only fastened to a rope a bneket of fresh w^ater, making signs that they still considered themselves indebted to him for the favours they had received, but that they were going ashore to get provision, which they signified by putting their hands into their mouths, iieforc they ap- proached the frigates, they placed their hands upon their brciists, and elevated their arms to- wards the sky. These gestures being repeated by the ships' crews, they ventured to come on board, but their countenances indicated a want of confidence in the persons who had invited • The wind permitting liim to conic within two miles of this island, l^a IVrousu distiuctty saw three vilhigos on tlie southern coast, and a caiiac seemed to direct its eoiirsu to. wards kim. Approaching Uotol Tabacoxima he suundtni tOTcral times, und, till within half a league from the iaail, found no bottom : hence it appeared that if there was any anchorage it must hove been extremely near the coast. This island, on which no one has yet been known t ) hind, is about foar ledguuis in circumferenrc, and is sepnrattd by a channel from a largo rock or islet, on which soine verdure, Mid a few shrubs were seen. The island, however, con. : tained many inhabitants; three large villages having pt-e- Ecnted themsetvci within the space of a league. A con. •iderabic part of H is woody, and the summit seemed to be capped with very large trees. In many piac(>(i the land wod ' cultivated, and exhibited a most beautiful green ; though farrowed by the impetuosity of tho torrents which descend *^ui the high mountaius. them: they intimated, however, that if their < benefactors would come on shore, they should want for nothing. Their canoes, which wen; made of hollow trees, were managed very in- ' differently. It is probable that vessels might provide llieni- selves in this island with provision, wood, and water; but as it does not exceed three or four leagues in circumference; its population may not^i perhaps amount to more than four or five huii :f dred. La Perouse preserved the name of Kiinui Island, which Father Ganbil gives it in hi- chart; in which he makes it part of a group ol'l seven or eight islands, of which this is thi T westernmost: and this separated from those sup- posed to be eastward of it, by chaunels of eigl.t or ten leagues. At one in the afternoon he crowded sail t(i the northward, without waiting for thost; islanders who had signified they would return 1 with provisions: he continued his course to the northtvard, and biiforc sim-sct lost the sight oi' Kumi Island. At day-break he made an i.slan(!;| in the north north-east, and farther east saw so veral rocks or islets : he ranged along it at ;i third of a league distance without finding aiiv'^ bottom, or discovering any trace of a habitation j it was so sfeep that he supposed it uninhabifabii' ■* and its circuinfert^ncc did not seem t.) cxceeili two leagues: when he came abreast of if, he per i ceived another island, which was woody, btstf nearly of the same size and form, though noti qtiite .so high; and between these islands fi\« groups of rocks appeared, which were surround- ed by birds inninnerablo. He continued to filial last the appellation it had received of Iloapir^u, Inland, and to that most to the north-east 7Vrto//»-| On the 3(h of May, at one in the mornintf, our navigi. tors m.ido an island: after standing olV and on, under ai, easy saii, at day.break, they ran along the west coast (j! this island, at the distance of half a league. They soundoJ several times, but found no bottom : they were convincul '. the island was inhabit(>d, as they saw fires in several plac. -. 'and herd* of rattle grazing on the sea shore. When tliei had doubled its west iioint, which was the most popiiloii- and beautiful, several canois set olf from shore to observ. ] thcin. 'J'hey seumuil, however, much afraid : their curiosiiv impelled them to advance within musket-shot, but thiu timidity induced them spueilily to depart. But laiignasc gestures, .-.nd tokens of peace and amity, nccompaiiii.iL with the display of some stuffs, at length prevailed un two'l of the caituus to oomo alongside of thcia. Slid l»EIlOUSFs VOYAGK ROUND THE WOULD.- 3.9 T, that if their i ore, they should les, which were J crowded sail lo iting for thost; ey would return | m course to tlic h»st tlie sight of ic made an is-lani!- ■ther east saw si- cd along^ it at ;i j hout Biuling an. c of a habitation ;j it uninhabitable, jj seem to cvccpd! !ast of it, he pci-i was woody, but iini, though not' hcso ishmds li\«| were surroumi- ntinued to (til- ed of Hoapir^:. 3rtli-east Tiaoj/n- ornint^, our naviui-^ ami uii, uiuliT ai the wt'st coast ii: lie. They soiiiuli'il hoy were convincid •s in seTcral pliu'i'-. ■shore. When tliev the most popiiloii- )m shore to obsorvr 'raid : (heir ciiriusiti kct-shot, but thiu irt. but laii^uiif^c. mity, acconipauicil^ Ih prcT.ailrd on tuth*. In the night of the 25th our navigators passed Jie strait of Corea, sounding very frequently, [nd as the coast of Corea appeared more eligible [> follow than that of Japan, they approached .vithin two leagues of it, and shaped a course barallel to its direction. The channel between lie coast of the continent and that of Japan is [bout fifteen leagues wide: following the con- )nent very near, they saw, on the tops of moun- kins, some fortifications which had the ap- Larance of European forts: hence it seems to [ppearthat the greatest objects of defence, on ]lie part of the Coreans, are directed against the Japanese, This country is mountainous, and Jeems very n uch parched: the snow, in certain Ihanntls, wai not entirely melted, and the earth jiad not the af pearunce of being prolifii:. Their iabitalions are numerous; no less than a dozen I'lmmpans or junks also presented themselves as hey sailed a'iokig the coast: they hardly differ, n any respect, from those of China; and, like |hose, their sails were made of mats. The ap- bearance of the ships did not seem to create tear among the natives, but tliey had not courage Inou^h to speak to our na\igators: they con- linur d their course without regarding them, and lie sight of the vessels, though very new, did * FiithiT f!aiiMI, iu his charl, sivi-s a third island t i -'ic koitli-west of Iloapiusu, imdcr tl>e nainu of Puu«;kiucliuii, iiul nboiit tlie same distame fr(MU it ns 'J'iunijii.mi. Sliould llus island riMlij- exist, it is ustonisliinf;, riDin thi' vimiH'. of |,a I'lTDiise, that he did not disiovor it, Lcttics Ktli/utnl .., \\M\ ciilU'Cliiin. The navigators were now got out of the archipelago of |he islands of Liqueo, and were ubont to enter a more c%- tiiisive sea between Japan and China. On the 19th of kiay (hey made (he signal for geltin;; undot way, and shaped jiii ir course north-east by east towards the island of (JucU ^aert. This island, known to iMirope.ins by the wreck of lie Dutch ship Sparrow Hawk, in 1035, was then under he dominion of the king of Corea. No ishiud can pos- kbiy allord a liner aspect: a peak of about a thousand bises is \isible at the distance of twenty leagues, and oc- kipies the middle of it; the land slopes gradually towards lie sea, whence the habitations appear an an amphi-theatrc ; lie soil appeared in high cultivation; and, by the aid of lassci, the division of lields was clearly seem, which plainly cinonstrated that the population was gri,>at: but unfor. inately the inhabitants are prohibited froir all communica. |on with strangers; and thoso arc dotaijicil in slarery who tve the misfortnno to be iliipwreck«4 OA theso coftslv. Vol. II. No. LXVII. not attract their attention. At eleven, how- ever, two boats set sail to rectmnoitre, and came within a league of .lie frigates; they after- wards followed thorn foi" two hov.rs, and then returned into the harbour they had quitted iu the morning. It is therelv)re probable that they had created an alarm on the coast of Corea, as, in the afternoon, fires were seen on all the pro- montories f. On the 27th he made the signal to bear up, and steer east, and soon perceived in the north- north-east, an island not laid down upon any chart, at the distance of about twenty leagueii from the coast of Corea. He named it Isle Da^elet, from the name of the astronomer who first discovered it. The circumference is about three leagues. La Perouse ran along it, tmd nearly made its circuit at about a third of a league, and found no bottom. M. Boutin was then ordered in a boat to sound as far as the shore, and found bottom in twenty fathoms, but not till near the edge of the surf. This island, though steep, is embellished with fine trees, from the edge to the very summit: a ram- part of bare rock, almost perpendicular, en- circles the whole of it, seven little sandy creeks excepted, where it is practicable to land. In these creeks some boats of a Chinese construction were seen upon the stocks; but the workmen were intiiin'daled by the sight of the French ships, and tied into a wood. A few huts were Some of the crew of the S|);»ri >«-' iwk, after a captivity of eighteen yo.irs, and n'ceivi j; li.iny bastinadoes, con- • Irri! 11 fakt" away a bark, and cross to .lapan ; after- wants thi'\- Merc coiiduri d lo U.ilavia, and from tli. uce (o Ainst"rdui, Kiiowini; nIs circumstance, (hey wire not inclined to send a Ixiat on ■^hor.': (In-y had si'on twu Mnuos put oft' from it, but (Inn- ncv c:\tih- %uthin a leatjuo of the frijjaies, their ubjcct was i ruliibly to watch the pro- ceedings of their ni w visitors, and give the alarm on tlio coast of {'orca. + On the tah, the niou who were looking out at tlio mast-head, called down to inform the crews that they folt: burning vapours as if pro: i'i«i;ng I'roui the mouth of an oven, which pa<;sed lilv i > of wind, regularly succeed, ing each other in ab .»pace of half a minute. All (ho officers repaired to th ..i>t.head, and experienced the. .same! extraordinary heats. Uiring the night a gale of wind from the north continued for abint seven or eight hours, but th(j sea was very high. The ntxt day La t'erouse approached within three leagues of the continent: notwithstanding tho violcnco of the wind, he had gained a little to the north ward, and explored the most interesting coast of Corea. Ho then shaped his coursu for the south-west point of Niphun Island. L sefUj m 40 PEROUSri's VOYAGE ROUND THE WOni.D. seen, but nothing like a village; und the land was wholly uncultivated. llence it was con- jectured that the Corean carpenters come hither during the summer, for the purpose of building boats, which they dispose of upon the continent; and that conjecture was afterwards ascertained; for the workmen belonging to another dock- yard, who were so situated as not to be able to see the frigate's, were surprised by these French \isitors, in the very act of fashioning their tim- ber, and 'jonstrireting their boats ; but not approving of the appearance of interlopers, they instanily quified their labour, and (led into the forests, with the exception of only two or three, who sec-med not in the least degree, to be astonished or afraid. La Perouse wished he could have found an anchorage, that he might have an opportunity of convincing these people, by the exercise of friendly and benevolent of- tices, that he and his suite were not Ihcir enemies: the strong currents, however, drove from the land, night approached, and fearing the boat which he had dis] atched under M, Bou- tin, might not be able to rtjoin him. La Perousr ordered him by a signal to return on board, at the very moment he was on the point of landing on the beach. He hauled towards the Astrolabe, which was farther west, having been drifted b\ the currents, and a perfect calm ensued ; the height «><" the mountains of Dagclet Island having occasioned it by intercepting the sea-breeze. i SECTION X. Route to the J\'orlli-West Pari of Japan — CipcXoto, and of the Island Jooiai-sima — ParHcuUns of this Island — See several Japanese and Chinese Vessels — Relurn toivards the Coait of Tartarjj •— Remain at Baic de Ternai — //,s Productions — Some Account of the Countrj/ — Depart from it — Anchor in Bale de Suffrcn — Proceed to the JS'ortJnvard — Anchor at Baic de Langle — Jfannert "' and Customs of the Inhahitants— Continue lo proceed to the Xorlhieard — Put in at Bate d'Estaiufx *' Departure — Banks in the Channel — inival at Baic de Castries, on the Coast of Tartarij— J^AY, July, 1787. ON the 30th of May, La Perouse shaped his course east towards Japan, and on the 2d of June he saw two Japanese vessels, oiu' of which passed within hail of him. It had a crew of twenty men, all habited in blue cas- socks resembling those worn by French priests. This vessel was about a hundred tons burthen, and had a single high mast stepped in the middle. The sail, which was very large, w;is of linen, the breadths of which were laced lenjj,th- vvise; and two jibs, with a sprit-sail, composed the remainder of her suit: a small gallery pro- jected from each of the sides of this vessel, and extended along her gun-wale to about two- thirds of her length. The boat placed athwart her bows exceeded the breadth of the vessel by seven or eight ieei. These vessels did not ap- pear to be intended to go any considerable dis- tance from the coast, as they could not be safe in a high sea during a squall of wind: the Ja- panese nave probably other vessels to brave the bad weather. Our navigators pa^Bed so near this vessel^ that (hoy particularly observed the countenances of individuals, in which tiiey saw no appearance ol' four or astonishment. They had a small Japa- nese white tlag, whereon some word-; were seen, written vertically: the Astrolabe hailed her in she passed ; but neither the question nor the an- , swer was comprehended: she continued her course to tlie southward, to give the earliest iii- ;rved between the houses. Near a iort of iistle, at the south-west point, some gibbets ii:'.:!j. i'lcir awful appearance*. During" tlie seventy-five days, sincoi our na- kigators sailed from Tilanilla, they had run along be coasts of Quelpert Island, Corca, and Japan; )nt as these countries were inhabited by people Inhospitable to strangers, they did not attouipl to {W\t them. On the contrary, they well knew ^hat the Tartars were hospitable, and that Ihey \a.d a force sufficiently formidable to over-awe iixy small tribes that might be met with on the Ijea-sliore. They were extremely impatient to reconnoitre this land, and it was the only part of Ihe globe which had escaped the activity of Captain Cook. The geographers who had drawn the strait of lessoy, erroneously determined the limits of Fesso, of the Company's Land, and of Statcn tsland: it therefore became necessary to ter- Ininatc the ancient discussions by indisputable tactsf. The latitude of Bale de Tcrnai was the • Somo satisf.ic(ory observations of latitude and longitude, k'liich «ill be interesting to iroograpliers, but caniKit be en. lertaining to the general reader, arc not here partleiihirizcd. Kfter some very essential srientific information, L\ Pe- loiisc proceeds to inform his readtira, iu his narratives, that Vi the 23d of June, the wind became settled at north-east ; le theroforn determined to stand iu for a bay he had seen to Dii; wcst.north.west, where it was probable he mi^ht liiid tood anchorage : at six in the eveliing he dropped anchor picrc, in sevcnty-foiir futhoms, half a league from the bore. He named it Bitie dc Tcrnai. Though it is open to he easterly winds, he supposes they never blow in upon he coast there, and that they follow the direction of the tnd: the bottom, whi' h is sandy, gradually diminishes to Ix fathoms within a cable's length of the shore. -f Many of the geographers have pointed out an island to Jic north of Japan, under the several names of Jeco, Yeco, Ir Jesso, which they have separated from Tartary, by a rait which the/ hare named Tcssoy. This imaginary strait same as that of Port Acqucis, thongli the description of it is very different |. Freah provision is truly desireable to every man, and even that which is the least relishiii": is infinitel. more wholesome than salt meat: the prospect of a plentiful fishery induced La Pe- rouse to order the salt provisions to be locked up, and preserved for less fortunate periods: he also directed casks to be prepared and filled with fresh limpid water, of which there was great plenty; he even sent into the meadows to pro- cure pot-herbs, where onions, celery, and sor- rel were found in abundance. The plants which France produces, carpeted the whole soil. Roses, lilies, and all European meadow flowers wftie behtdd at every step. Pine trees embellished tlur tops of the mountains; and oaks, gradually di- minisihing in strength and size towards the sea, adorned the less elevated parts: birch, willow, and mai)le frees form agreeable borders to the banks of tlie rivers, and the rivulets ; and on the skirls <^i' forests, there was a profusion of apple, medlar, and hazle-nut trees. Traces of men were frequently perceived by the havoc they had made, some small baskets, formed of the bark of birch-trees, sewed with thread like those of the Canadian Indians, were also found; and several rackets for walking ou the snow. By these, and many other corobo- rating circumstances, the navigators were clearW of opinion, that the Tartars approach trie borders of the sea, when invited thither by the season for fishing and hunting ; that they assemble for those purposes along the rivers; and (hat the appears on all the old charts; and its preieitded existence may have originated from the real strait « liieh divides Se- galieu Island from the C()utinei\t, and which William do Lisle also gave the name of Strait of Tcssoys on ^ chart of Asia, published in 1700. + Nevt:r did any country exhibit i;rada(ions of aolour of so varied and strong a green as that which was now beheld ; and though neither a single (ire nor a rauoe could be seen, it could not be imagined that a country si) near China, ap- parently so fertile, sIkiuIiI lie eiilirely uninhabited. Before our navigators had landed their boatf, tlieir glasses were dircctctl towards the shore, but they saw only bears and stags passing deliberately along the sea-side. The impatience of the crews to land was much increased b)' this circumstance- Arms were prepared with as much activ'ty as if an enemy had menaced the most alarming hostilities; and while all these preparations were making, the sailors were employed in fishing, and had taken ten or twelve cou .fish with tticit lincsj iu a very short space of time. mas.^ 42 PKROUSE's VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. mass of people reside in the interior of tlie country, to attend to the uuiltiplicatioa of their flocks and herds*. M. de Langle, with several other officers^ who had a passion for hunting, endeavoured to pur- sue their sport, but without success: yet they imagined that by silence, persev«rance, and post- ing themselves in ambush in the passes of the stags and bears, they might be able to pro- cure some of them. This plan was determined on for the next day, but, with all their address and management it proved abortive. It was therefore generally acknowledged that fishing presented the greatest prospect of success. Each of the five creeks in the Baie de Tcrnai, afforded a projjcr place for hauling the seine, and was rendered more convenient by a rivulet, near which they established their kitchin. They caught plenty of trout, salmon, cod-fish, harp- fish, plaice, and herrings. In one of these fishing parties they discovered, on the bank of a rivulet, a Tartarian tomb, erect- ed near a small ruinous house, and almost hidden in the grass: curiosity induced them to open it, and they observed two persons in it, placed on the side of each other; a cap of taffeta covered their heads; their bodies were wrapped up in a bear's skin ; and they had also a girdle of the same, from which several small coins, and dif- ferent copper trinkets were pendant. Blue beads were scattered in this tomb, and ten or twelve silver pendants for the ears, were also found: a knife, an iron hatchet, a wooden s{)oon, a comb, and a small bai>,- of nankeen, full of rice, were * At half past six tliri'i> boals, lillcd wi(h officers from tliL' two fritjati's, landi'd at Bear's Creek, and at seven (hey had fired several tniisket.shots at dillerrnt ■v^ilii heasfs, whieh rai)idly (led into (he woikN. Three yowiig fawns verc (he v.i.!y utdiMR of (heir inejiperioncc : the boisterons joy of those who hail just landed aeeelerateddie depar(nre of these intimidated animals. 'I'lie nuMdows, though delightfnl to behold, were almost impassable: thick grass of (ive or six feet liish, impeded the progri'ss of the .-idTcntnrers, and .iltnosi buried tlieni in (heir luxnriance. They also dreaded the noxious company of serjjents, many of (hem having been seen on (he banks of (he rivulets, though their veno- mous (iuali(y h;ul not then been experienced. The sandy flats on the shore were the only places that could be walked on with security and ease. + It seemed clear (hat (he Tartarian hunters made fre- quent landings on (his bay ; a ranoe, found near the mo- nument, indicated that they came thither by sea, from the mouth of some river not then ascertained. I On the morning of the 27(h, after having buried dif> !i .1 !i afterwards discovcrf^d. The construction of tli! monument was inferior to that of the tombs oi l^ort dcs Francais. Great care was taken ti» cover these articles up again, after preserving a small part of each to authenticate the dis CO very f. The Chinese coins, as well as the other articles, make it uninifcst that these people have regular commercial dealings Avitli that nation, arid it u also probable that they may be subjects of that empire. The rice, in a blue nankeen bag, coun- tenances the Chinese opinion, that there will be a succession of wants in the life to come: the hatchet, knife, comb, &c. have a marked ri- semblance to those among the American Indians; and if they have never had any communication with each other, it may fairly be suggested, tha< people in the same degree of civilization, and under the same latitudes, may probably adopt the same customs. This delightful country, the east part of Tar- tary, presented to the view nothing interestini;; to the botanists and mineralogists of the two frig'itt-s. The plants were the same as those in Friince; set and land-birds are scarce, thougli some turtle-doves, ravens, quails, swallows, al- batrosses, gulls, bitterns, and wild-ducks, niade their appearance; but the view was not en- livened by those innumerable fiights of birdv, ] which swarm in other uninhabited countries At the Baie de Tcrnai those aerial visitors were seldom seen, and in the interior of the woods ' the most gloomy silence was seldom interrupted bv their vocal nielodvt. _' ■ 0„ feront medals in (honrth, with a bo((Ie in whirh tlie dad of their arrival was rei\is(ered, t'iic navigators s,'{ sail, ami ran along the coast lifty league.-, with (he (iiiesi -.veaduT. They condnued to rn,i along near *he coast, the dircctiua being the north by east. On (he 1st of .Tulv, ■■: tliii k (oj, surrounding thcni near the land, l/,i Perouse made tlu; signal to anchor, in thirty fatlioms: till the llh it com- tinned so thick that no bearings could be taken, r.'ir could the boats be sent on shore; but upwards of ei;^!!! hundred cod-fish were caught, and the surplus beyond tin- 1 immediate consumption was salted and put into barreK. ; They also ])rocured a great quantity of oysters, (he shell of which was so extremely fine (hat they mt re supposed to contain pearls, though they had only found two, half formed. Hence some credit is due to the account of (hi- Jesuits, who say there is a pearl fishery at the )nouth of- several rivers of Kast Tartary : but this is probably to ili- southward, at the placcg adjacent to Corca, for towards the north (he country is too destitute of inhabitants tn engage in such euterprizos: our navigators Laving nia down PF.UOUSK'« VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD. 4:; nstriiction of tli! i)f the tombs oi re was taken tn fter piescrving u i;uticatc the (lis the other articles, »plc have regular nation, aiid it u subjects of that | nkecu bug, coun- Ihut there will bi- life to come: tin- I'c a marked ri- Lmerican Indians; J)' comnr.inicatioii je 8ug;gcstcd, that ' civilization, and y probably adopt east part of Tar- othing- interestin:!; •gists of the two same as those in re scarce, though lils, swallows, ai- wild-ducks, madi iew waH not eii- flights of birdf, | abitcd countric!- rial visitors wcie ior of the woods Idoni interrupted Oil It If in wliirli tlie tl.ii vigiVtors M'l sail, anl li (he fiiicsl -.'oatliir. 1 coast, the dircctin i of Julv, ■■: lliif k I'M ii IVrousc \iiailc tli^' till the nil it coil. mill he. talu'ii, r.'>r but upwards of ei;iii iirphis beyond lli'' 11(1 put into baiTi''-. of oystors, tin- shdl lipy were supposed I'l ily found two, half o the account of tli.' lery at the mouth (if his is probably to i!i Corea, for towanU ite of itiliabltants ti ivigntors Laving run llo.MI On the 4ili, at three in tlie morning, there was line clear sky, and the navigators saw, upon their ight beam, tit the distance of two miles from them, Sn the west-north-west, a great island into which L river discharged itself. A boat from each fri- Igate was armed and manned to reconnoitre it; jthc landing was found easy, and the water shoal- ;d gradually towards the shore. The country ;csomblcd that at Kaie de Tcmai, and though Ihreo degrees more to the northward, the pro- uctions of the earth differed very little from it. It was here apparent that the traces of the [inhabitants were more discernible than in many ither places: branches, separated from trees with sharp-edged instriuuent, the leaves of which lad not lost their verdure, were frequently seen: ^wo elk-skins, methodically stretched upon pieces if wood, were left at the side of a small cabin, hich was not sufficiently capacious to accom- [modate a family, but might perhaps conveniently ihelter two or three hunters: a small number [might probably have bci n at that time in pos- session of it, who, from the alarm occasioned by lie intrusion of unknown visitors, might have lied into the woods. M. de Vaujuas, who had •en dispatched in one of the frigates, took jiiway one of the elk-skins, but not without leaving, in exchange for it, some hatchets, and ther iron instruments of infinitely more value, hat officer's representation, nor that of .he na- uralisls, did not encourage La Perouse to con- iime any longer in this bay, on which bethought Koper to bestow the nam*; of Baic dc SiiJ/'rcn. La Perouse got under way from Baie dt; Suf- ren, with a light breeze at north-east, hoping In the ('oiirso was several times m')loved. and oysters were taken to which ittle sliell-lish, named Poulattas were attached: Iso large whelks, sea hedge-hogs, and a great uantity of star-tish. The calm and fog com- eiied him to anchor in forty-four fathoms, league farther from the shore: but on the h, notwithstanding the fog, he set siil. At ght in the morning of the seventh, he made an laud which seeujed of great extent: he sup- losed at first, that this was Segalien Island, the uth part of which sonie geographers had \o gain a distance from the coast )f his departure the dredge iwn two hundred l''".giics of this coast, and always at a lort distance from the land, without seeing hoii-i^'s or InuM, and when thev .weiit on shore they saw only the Vol. IL No, LXVIL : placed two degrees too far to the northward. The aspect of this land was extremely dfllerent from that of Tartary: nothing was to be seen but barren rock-", the cavities of whicli retained the snow; but the distance was too great to admit a satisfactory view of the low lands, which like those of the continent, might probably he cloathed with verdure. To the highest of these moiuitains La Perouse gave the appellation of Peak Lamanon, on account of its volcanic form, the naturalist of that name having particularly applied himself to the study of volcanic pro- ductions. He was obliged, by the southerly winds, to ply to windward with all sijils set, to weather the southern extremity of the new land, the end of v.'hirh he had not perceived. He waited lor a clear sky with the greatest impatience, and on the 11th of July at noon he obtained one, though in these foggy seas a horizon of vast extent is very seldom seen: at two in the afternoon, he took hearings of the land from the north by east, 'le thought it of jm- {)ortance to discover, whether the island they lad run along was the same as that which geo- Igraphers have named Segalian Island: the two [frigates were therefore ordered to be in readiness [for sailing the next day. The bay in which jthey lay at anchor was named Baic de Laniile, I as captain de Langle was the th'st who discovered [it, and tirst landed on its shore. They spent the remainder of the day in visiting [the country and its inhabitants, when their cu- jriosity and admiration were particularly excited. [They were surprised to iind among a people jeomposed of hunters and fishermen, who were [strangers to the cultivation of the earth, and * ThcinhaWtants of this island seem to form a welf.rc- tgulatcd sociot^ , but cxtromrly poor. Only two marten's skins could lie purchased: a very few skins of bears and Itcals were ili»:playcd ; btit tho pi'llrii'S uf thc>>e islands would the inconsiiifrable. All tho siIvit trinkets which ornaoient^ fled twenty.onu of Ihssu nativ'S did not weigh two ounces; la medal, with a silver chiiin, wiih which the captaia de. rcorated the neck of an old man, vma thought inestimable [by theto pecple. Each of the iolMbitiinta wears a large without flocks or hcrdK, such gentle manners, and sr.ch a superioniy of intellect. The atten- tion of the ir.habitants of the Baie de Langle was attracted by the arts and manufactures of the French; they judiciously examined them, and debated among themselves the manner of fa- bricatiuy the several articles. They were not unacquHihted with the weaver's shuttle: a loom of their "onslruction was brought to France, whence it i ppeared that their methods of making linens was similar to that of the Europeans; but tbe thread of it is formed of the bark of the willow tree. Though they do not cultivate tlie soil, they convert the spontaneous produce o£ it to Uie most useful and necessary purposes. In their cabins were displayed several roots of the yellow lily, or aarauna of KanUschatka, which they dry and preserve for their winter's provision: these were accompanied by a quantity of garlic and angelica root, with which the skirts of the woods abound. From i\\G short continuance of our navigators on this spot, they could not learn whether these islanders have a form of governmeul ; on that head they cotild not hazard their conjectures: but tliey particularly remarked, that the greatest deference and respect was manifested to old men,, upon all occasions; their manners are mild, and would have conveyed a striking idea of the manners and customs of the patriarchs, had they been shepherds, and possessed of numerous flocks. They are, in general, of a strong habit and constitution, and a prepossessing counte- nance: they are rather blow the middle size, few of them exceeding five feet five inches in height, and several of them were under five feet. They readily permitted the French painters to drav,- their pictures, but obstinately refused to sufler any person to take the measure of their biUies, supposing, it is presumed, that was a maj* ical operation, the idea of magic being ex- tensively prevalent in Tartary and China*. Desirous of knowing whether the agrccablu sensation ring on his thumb, consisting of horn, load, or ivory : they suffer their nails to grow, like the Cliiiiesc, and like them salute by kneeling and prostrating thcmseWos on tlw earth; like them too, tlicy sit down on their mats, and cat with little sticks. Some Chinctic, on board one of the frigates, did not understand a syllable of the languasc of the Islanders, though they perfixtly comprehended that of two Mantchou Tartars, who u short time before passed from the continent for the supposed purpose of buying fish. Tha 4€ PEROUSE'i VOYAGE UOUND THE WORLD. |i u sensation of smells, like those of taste, dej)end- «d on custom^ J.a Pcrouse gave one of the old men a bottle, filled with perfumed water; when, on placing it to his nose, he manifested as much disgust as La Perouse iiad shown to his oil. These people were continually snioaking, and their tobacco which was used in great leaves, was of an excellent quality; it was understood to have been procured from Tartary, but it was evident that their pipes was the manufacture of Japan. The commodore could not persuade any of them to take snuft", which was a for- tunate circumstance, as it would have been in- jurious to them to introduce a new want among them. .1 ') At day-break, on the 4th of July, La Perouse made the signal for getting under way : early on the 19th, he saw the land of an island from north-east by north, as far as cast-south-east; but so thick a fog prevailed that none of the points could be particularly discovered; he stood on to approach it, but almost instantly lost the sight of it; he continued to run along it by the lead till two in the afternoon, when lie dropped anchor to the westward of a fine bay, in twenty fathoms, tAvo miles from the shore. At- four the fog, in a great degree, dispersed, and the navigators took bearings of the lands astern to them to the north by cast. This bay, which La .Perouse says is the best in which he had ancnorcd since his departure from Manilla, he named Bate d'Estaing, At four in the afternoon the boats belonging to the frigates landed there, at the foot of ten or twelve cabins irregularly placed, and at a con- siderable distance from each «llier. Tliey were constructed like those already described, but ra- Thti cabins of these islands display skill and iiigeiiiiily, and every prccaiilion to prevent the adtiiissioii of cold into them: thf>y arc fonned of wood, covered with hark; over which other tiniber-uork is erected, covered with dry straw, rc- sciiibliii!; the thatch of Ktiroi)eaii peasants' Louses: the docT is low, and t]w hearth is in the centre, under an aper. tiiru in the roi)f for the smoke to evaporate: little banks, of the height of ei^ht or ten inches, encompass it, and the inside is strewed with mats. The cabin, jtist described, is situate in the midst ff a clump of rose-trees, alxnit thirty yards from the sea-shore: these shrubs, being in full flower, exhaled a most d^licions odour, but not sufficient to over- power the stcnc.i o*" the (ish and oil, which doubtless have been triumphant over all the ])erfumes of Arabia. ♦ Some of the oflicers belonging to the frigates met with two women, who had fled and concealed themselves iii tkii gruss, Wheu the canoes landed in the creek, the women thcr Urger, and divided' into (wo npartrpcnfiil the inner contained the furniture^ &c. of the t'nM niily; the outer was entirely empty, and seenut^ appropriated to the purpose of receiving visits strangers being perhaps excluded from being pet-i mitted into the presence of the women *. M. dc Lang-lc, who first landed in tlie island! found the islanders assenibled round three o;'- four canoes, laden with smoked fish : he wa| there informed that the men who composed thfj[ crcAvs of the canoes were Mantchpus, and haJ quitted the banks of the Selagian river to become purchasers of these fish. In the corner of the; island, within a kind of circus planted with stakes, each surmounted with the head of a bear, the i bones of these animals lay scattered. As these people use no fi e arms, but engage the bears ind close combat, ilieir arrows being only capahli!^ of wounding them, this circus might probablv^f be intended to perpetuate the memory of ccrtaiir; great exploits f. Having entertained conjectures relative to tlii-^ proximity of the coast of Tartary, La PerousfJ at length discovered that his conjectures wercj well founded; for when the horizon became al little more extensive, he saw it perfectly. Jul the evening of the ^2d he came to an anchor in thirty-seven fathoms, about a league from the land. He was then abreast of a small river, to| the northward of wliich he saw a remarkabkf peak: its base is on the shore, uiul its suminil on all sides preserves a regular form. La Pe- rouse bestowed on it the tide t;f Peak la Marti- nicrc. Having seen no hut or hahilation aloiijji the coast of the island fcoiu Haw W I<]iilaing, lie^ was anxious for information on that hubject: hci therefore armed four boats, belonging to the twi set np the most shocking shrieks, iis if tlic)- expected to Ijp! devoured; though they were under the protectiDii of a-' native, who safely conducted them tu their habitations, .ind-j strove to allay their fears. M. BloudtU drew several ' sketches of these women, which were stroni; Jikiiicsses ; , upon the whole their countenances are tolerably agreeable : i they have small eyes, and largo lips; the upper oncbeiir;;* painted blue; and a long linen shift enfolded their lei,'^ their figures at full length were not very elegant; their hairs was lank, not being curled by art: it was permitted t,i^ grow on the upper part of their heads, thou!;h such a prac | tice was prohibited among the men. + The productions of the soil of Br/ie d'Esfuhig Alffcr, little from those of Baic de Langlo : salmon was cqualFv abundant there, and every cabin had its stordionse. Tin' frigates' boats departed at eight in the evening, after having' 1 liberally gratified the Tartarti with valuable presents. frigatesj nKROusE's VOYAGE noUND Till-; \vont:T>. 47 ) two apartment ure^ &c. of tbe fa^ sinpty, and seenni^l if receiving visits led from being peM 5 women *. nded in tlie islan(l| d round three c;{ )ked ii»h : he waL vho composed thtj intchpusj and had: Ian river to become • the corner of tho^^ )lantcd with stakes ;ad of a bear, tbf.i attered. As thest ngage the bears iaj eing only capable IS might probablv^ memory of certain 9 ires relative to tlio rtary, La Pcroiis* conjectures wen horizon became a;| it perfectly. Iii"| ne to un anchor in league from IIk ' a small river, toa aw a reniarkabk'l iiiid its sumiiiiti ir fi.iin. La l*c- r Path- la Marii- ; habiiiition aloni;^ aw d' Ealaing, lit I I tliiit subject: ho] aiiging to the l\vo| f tliey ctpoefcd to bsl tlip |)rot<'!'fion of ,if heir liitbiutions, aiid'l oudi'!^ drew several * e stroiii; ]iktiiesscs : \ tolerably agreeable thr iijjijer one l)eiiii^| enfolded their lei;^ )■ <'lefl;ant; fiicir liairi it was permitted t.i (hough such a prar- 1 salmon was eqnalfv ts stordioHse. Tint veiling, after having' ublc presents. frigatfSj I Hgaies, under the command of M. de Clonard, Ind sent him io reconnoitre the creek. He re- jrned at eight in the evening> and astonished he commodore with such a quantity of salmon M to fill all the boats; though the crews were i'holly unprovided with nets or lines. The of- ker informed him that he had landed at the liiouth of a small narrow rivulet, and not exceed- hig a foot in depth ; that he found so complete- ly tilled with salmon that the bed was covered /ith them, and that the sailors had killed twelve iiMulrtd of them in an hour, by beating them Ivith sticks which theyliad procured. lie could >nly farther relate, that he had seen two or ihree deserted huts, which he imagined to have ken built by the Mantchou Tartors*. On the 28th, in the evening, our navigators tuund themselves on the coast of Tartarv, at the opening of a bay which presented a SJifc and convenient anchorage. Being in uant of wood, as well as of a speedy supply of water, they put in here, and came to an anchor at the i)orth point of this bay, at five in the evening, in eleven fathoms. M. de Langle reported to La Perouse that there was excellent shelter behind four islands: he had landed at a village of Tartars, where he was kindly received, and where he discovered a watering place, abounding with the most limpid element. These islands, thu good anchorage of which was not farther distant than three cables' hnigths, were covered with wood. From M. dc Langle's report. La Peronso gave orders to prepare for anchoring in the bottom of the bay, and at eight in the morning they brought up in six fathoms. This bay was named Bate de Castries. SECTION XL >serifHm of Baic dc Cnxiries, and of a Tartarian Village-^jyianncrs and Customs of iJie In- Iiuhitants — Thejj create Confidence — Their extreme Tenderness for their Children — Productions mid Jointured Histori/ of Bale de Castries — Departure from Baic dc Castries — 57rrt/7 dividin'- Jesso from Ocu-Jesso — Staif at Buie de Crillon — Manners and Customs of the Inhuhitants— Staten Island — [/I'ies Strait — Compani/s Land — Island of the Four Brothers — Mateckan Island —Kurilc Islands, Auavsr, September, 1187. AlE DE CASTRIES is situate at the bot- tom of a gulph, at the distance of two hun- Ired leagties from the strait of Sangccr, the only bortaiti passage from the Japanese seas. As soon h the iVigatcs were moored, particular duties *'ere !issi.<>;ucd to their boats, long-boats, &c. by La Perouse and M. de Langle, to be invariably Uttcnded to during their stay. The pinnaces ^nabled the superior oflicers to superintend the liferent labours, and to convey themselves and he natunilists to the Tartarian village, to the lifTcrent islands, or on any other necessary pur- liiit. Of all the bays on the coast of Tartary, which * Celery and cresses grew in abundance on tlio banks of [lis river: juniper-berries were also extremely plentiful; he botanists collected several scarce plants. Fir trees and lillous were mure numerous than the oak, the maple, or lie birch : strawberries, raspberries, and gooseberries, cro in full llowcr, and promised a delicious harvest, ndlc the crews of the boats visited the shore, those on oard caught a considerable number of cod>lish: su that VeL. II., No. LXVIII. _ )U* jfiJi-i'^- our navigators had visited, that of de Castries was the only one which really merited that de- nomination: it ensures a .shelter to ships in bad weather, insomuch that it would be possible tti pass the winter in it. It has a muddy bottom shoaling gradually from twelve to live fathoms in approaching the coast, which is surrounded by a flat, three cables' lengths from the shore. Beds of sea-weeds, ovfuei abound in this quar- ter. Salmon were seen leaping, as they came out of a rivulet, the water of which "loses itself among these weeds: two thousand of these fish were taken in a day. The iidiabitunts saw the success of the fishery without emotion or concern, this anchorage, in the course of a very few honrs, supplied the whole ships' companies with fresh provision for a week. La Perouse named this river Rumaue du iaiim,)ii. ami .it day-break got uiidcr sail. IIo ran along at a small (iistaiice from this wland, and saw a few habitations licre and there upon the shore. Not thinking It necessary (o reconnoitre this bay more particularly, he only sailed' across it, and named it Ueuetlc laJonquiera. \ ' '^' ' ' ' ' \ being i '. 1 ■' 1 . -i ■ i 'it .1 1 48 prnotTt^rH voyacf, round tuf, woiun. beinp well assmcJ Uint the quantity of iliem was inexhaustible. The day after their arrival in the bay, tliey landed at the villaj^e, where M. de Langle, who had been there first, bad procured them friends by bin p;enerosity. A tribe of belter men eannot be found in the universe than wiiiit this country can produce. The diiof, or oldest man ainonj;- thciui, advanced to receive the niivi^;i(ors on the Iicach. acconi- j)iinied by several of the inliabitiinfs. He pros- trated himself to the earth, the usual Chinese salutation, and afte wards conducted the visitors to his cabin, where l.i., wife, children, and grand- children were attending. Ordering a mat to be spread, he invited them to sit down on it, and a small grain, with which they were wholly un- acquainted, was put with some salmon into a copper on the fire, in order to be presented to them. This grain is considered among them as the most delicious food, and they intimated that it came from the Mantchou country. They in- formed their new visitors, by signs, that they ivere themselves of the nation of the Orotch\s; and shewing the four .strange canoes, which had that day arrived in the bay, they called the crews of them l}ilchi/.s; they signitied that these last reside farther to the south; for these nations, like the Canadians, change their name and lan- guage at every village. These strangers had kindled a fire at the edge of the .sea near the village of the Orotchys, where they cooked their lish. They were come from the river Segal ian, and brought back grain and nankeens, which they had probably received in exchange for dried fish. Except elks and bears, which arc not numerous in this country, squirreh and dogs were the only quadrupeds that were seen by our Europeans*'. Every cabin was encirtled with a place for drying calnion, which are exposed upon poles to the heat of the sun, after having been several (lays smoked round the fire in the cabin. The * TJie village of the Orotcliy's) consisfrd of four cabins, substarili.illy biiilf widi the U'liiiks of /ir-tri'cs neatly carved at the aiifrlrs; a frame, forinrd of the bark of trees, sup. ported the roof ; a wooden bench encompassed the apart, mcnt, similar to those of the cabins of S'egalian isla.id: and the hcitrth, and aperture for cxjiclling smoke were nearly on the s:i?i)e plan. Our navigators siipp^ised, from variety of corroboradng circnmstances, that these fonr houses were occnpied by four (liH'orcnt families, who live together in the most perfect harmony and friendship. One of tkeijo families, during the te{np't ig lip the mm-i- Ji'opeaiis swaUoM \ ipators first dis- [)f lead or hoiic, || iihahitaiits of Sv- >b like a ring: it U)d stripping the Iways han^iDiT i,, s built upon low )tlo3s be iininhii- on the opposite :igc appeared on vas seated nt the tncd eight cabins, I than the firsl ley visited throe I, exactly res-ni- 'es, described in ok's hist voyiigT; to accoiiuuodatL' lit cabins diiriii;: eason. On ih,. tombs presented I and more iiige- oiises: each of five biers, dccd- pieces of which and the other | eopic, were siis- inonunienta, the i by a bar, sup- It 1 '0!ivlnc«I of the li. h;it (hey left ilwn sttilFs, and every their e.iljins, with, security tliuii (lieir ■leir ex I rem conli. from the bay, they ut suppose ciich i their tombs, were way: their arrows, pikes, It miglit have been r onjectured by the number J tombs which were found in all the islands, feekh, &c. that some recent epidemical disorder id made great ravages in this country ; but it kins very apparent that the dillere^t families, which this nation iw composed, were dispersed the neighbouring l>nys, where they were oc- ipied in catching and drying their salmon, and Ut they assembled only In the winter, carrying fith them their harvest of fish to sub ist on till le sun resumes his salutary iiiHiience. Some ersons, indeed, have supposed, that the religious [spectenlertained of thememorv of their woiiliy ncestors by these people*, indmes them to sun- Ut and repair their tombs, to perpetuate the jod fame of the dcceanid, and the gratitude the descendant. No external diflerencc was olncrvublo among ic living inhabitants, but the ashes of the dead mosc ill a style of gniater or less magnificence, wording to their imaginary wealth. The bodies the indigent are exposed in the open air, on [bier supported by .stakes of about four feet in sight; but these humble monuments, though ley display no escutcheons, arc adorned with \c bows, arrows, and nets of the deceased, to- Bther with some pieces of stuff, which it would erhaps be sacrilegious to take away *. The women are wrapped in a large robe of m ics, skills, &c. rcmniiied in tlic deserted village, in which cy iiOTer reside but in the winter ; iliey pass the summer I the other side of thegulpli, uliere tlie} now livud ; and am which they saw the I''ronch visitors enter their cabins Id their tombs, without manifesting; any apprehensions ■seeing their property taken away. The. Iioats' couipuiiies, well as the olTiCPfS; were so impressed with this striltiiig link of confidence, th.\t not one of them Tcntured to dis- racu himself by basely condescending to comuut the uiost ^.^i!;nificant theft. * These pcoplv, like those of ^galian Island, serm to |ive no chief; nor are they subject to any regular form of >vernmcnt. Their mildness and suavity might remove all kc inconveniences ff anarchy ; no in8t..Mces were known their engaging in 'le slightest quarrel; .'heir reciprocal It-ction, ami their eut'earing tenderness for tuMr children, ould atford exemplary lessons to the European natives. lit with all these interesting truths, candour must ceri.-'iniy Iniit, that (he senses were disgusted with the fetid smel. of |eir salmon, with w'lich thi> houses and adjacent |jremifcs crc infected: th ■ bones and blood were scattered 9nd ^rcad about the heanh, and hunt^ry dogs deroured tl>:^ rc- linder. The nastiness^ and stench of these peopio are be- iuA conception ; and, >\ith respect to their forms, no race 'human beings can be more feebly constituted, or poi °8S itures less entitled to the appellation of beautiful. Thv'.r bmmoii stature is about four fcrt ten iacbei; tbey hare nankeen, or salmon's skin, curiously tannedi descending as low as the anclu-bone, suinetiraet embellished with a border of fringe manufac- tured of copper, and producing sounds like those (<'* little bells. Those salmon which furnish a covering for the fair, weigh thirty or forty pounds, and arc never caught in summer; those which were taken by the French visitors did not exceed three or four pounds in weight; but that disadvantage was fully compensated by the ex- traordinary number, and the extreme delicacy of their flavour. Nothing can, with certainty, be said of the religion of these people; no temples or priests having been seen among them: some rudely carved figures were, however, suspended from the ceiling of their cabins, representing children, &c. These images might possibly be taken for idols by some ; but is it probable they were meant only to call to remembrance a child devoured by bears, or some hunter wounded or injured by any of those animals. It is not in the least im- probidile that persons of so weak a frame should be superstitious. ''\ " '. They perhaps supposed our navigators to be" sorcerers, for they answered their questions with visible uneasiness, though with great politeness:' the motions of the hand in writing they con- strued into signs of magic, and intimated that high check bones, a Hat nuse, small blear eyes, placed dia. gonally, a large mouth, a short chin almost beardless, and an olive-coloured coniplection, varnished with oil and smoke. Their bodies are lauk, and their voices thin and weak. They permit their hair to grow, and tie it up in tltiv Parisian style : that of the women Hows loosely over tho shoulders. The figure and features f^f the men so nearly re. seuihle those of tlic women, tl-.ii. 'ii;(, portrait above drawn would answer for either sex, were it not for a slight dif- ference in dress. The women arc solely occupied in cuttin,"; and prcparliisj their apparel, in exhibiting their iish to In; dried, and in the management 'jf their children, who have free access to the breast till they arc three or four years of age. Ci'reat deference is paid to the tender sex by their obedient consorts; they never conclude any bar!;;uin of import, ance, without consulting their wives ; tho pendent ear. rings, and other ornamental trinkets, are exclusively ap- propriated to their wives and daughters. The men, and little boys have a waistcoat of nankeen, o: iiie skin of a dog or Iish, formed like a waggoner's frock. All of them wear seal.skin boots in the winter; and men of all ages, and at ail times, wear a leather girdle, with the follow ing appendages :— a bag to contain tobacco, a knife in a sheath, a steel for the purpose of striking a lis'it; and a p.pc to smoke mth, such !i. «, ^i 'M! \ -111 I- ' ! #P ^__ sui^l} fi Pffqtfce was pyil. f bey were so iocanar Wie Q^ y^nquishing t}ipjr prqjuflicp^, ^hat even t^p juo^t v*lua()l^ prti^n^' >'" SMpli occasions, yifi^ti bpstowetj on t|»piu i;i vain. Supposing ^Jiat gfeatei- dpUf acy raight be required in tbe ^napner of cojifprring fiivonrs on tboiu, La P»> Vqj^^ii sat (ipwn in one of tbci" lioiises, and calling ][>yo Umc c]iildren to bini of tluee or four years old, (viideny carfessed JickJi. and gave tbeni, fra}n bi3 pocket, a piece of rose-coloured nan- keen. The higliest satisfaction in tbe counte- nances of tbe whole family wis immediately evinced ; but be was clearly of opinion, tbat l^ad it been oflcred directly to themselves, they >yould have refused this present. Tbe husband quitted tbe cabin, antl almost intitantly returned with a most beautiful dog, en- treating La Pcrouse to accept of it. He politely declined the intended favour, alledging that it yrouid be more useful to its present master, f'indiug his urgent solicitations ineBcctual, he caused the two children who had received the firescnt to approach, and placing their little lands on ihc dog's back, signifying that he aught not to refuse his children*. To obtain a satisfactory account of the geo- graphy and other essential particulars of these re^jpns. La Perouse bad intended to remain in tbe bay till the 2d of Augu,^*, at which time be would certainly depart. Till then be \v:is em- ployed in reconuoiterinj.': some part of the bay, and the dilFereat islands of which it is formed. Tbe naturalists made several e.vcursions in search of objects peculiar to galian, formed a channel of about siv leagues, lie called it Isle JMonuerou, an of- frcer employed in this expedition being so name J. Directing bis course between 1 1 u's<' two islt'.nds, J he never fcind less than tifty I'atbo".;:-; \'^i\U\- Hoon afterwards be made a peak of about U-Wi or twelve hundred toises in height, consisting ot'l a bare rock, with snow in its cavities; but U'-i-s tber vertlure nor trees were perceived on if. lie nan.ed it l*eok de Jungle. Segalian Island tei- minating in a point, a distant hori/vin of mouii-J tains was no longer seitn: many circumsfances an- nounced tbat he vas approaching its 80ut-(eni| extremity, and that the peak was upon ••v-other island. On this supposition, which A-as rciili/dl dainties., They coIKrt (lie dilleieiit witil r.ooti, whirh tluv ' (fry, aiiil jiri'serve for their winter proviMon. 'Hiey h;i\( not, like the iohabilauts of Segalian Lsland, the n^^of th shi:itle, hut arc clothed in Chinese iittiU's of the iufetimj kind, auil the siiollt of thu land uniuiaU, or seals. ■■■''■' . ■ • I irovi.Mon. 'Hu'v li .. Islami, fho iisM>f '' liliill's of the ii\fiHh al3, ui' si-uls. npilt day, tlieanchor was let go in the even-' r, as )thc calm rendered it necessary to anchor ) the south point of Segalian Island. .This point, which was named Cape Crillon by Perous*!, is situate in 45" 5T north latitude, id 140^' .'M east longitude: it terminates this land, which, from north to south is rf im- tnsc extent, separated from Tartary by a clian- ^l terminated by ^aiid-banks to the northward, Mwcen which no passage for ships is to be tuud. This same island is Oku-Jesso. Chica land, abreast of our navigators divided by a ^annel from that of Segalian, and from Japan _ the strait of Sangaar^ is the Jesso of the Ja- ^nesc, extending to the south as far as the strait Sangaar. The chain of the Kuerile moun- l^ns is more to the eastward, and with Jesso and LU Jesso^ forms a sea which communicates Ith that of Ochotsk*. : The persons of the islanders which were seen Crillon Bay were well sized, strong, and vi- yrous; their features were expressive, and their bards descended to their breasts: their arms, cks, and backs, were also covered wiUi a pro- gion of hair. Their middh; stature is sup- }sed to be about an inch lower than that of ke French. Their skin is tiwny, like that of |e Algerines, and other naiioiis on the coast Barbaryf. But if these islanders are deficient in point of jrality, they are abundantly supplied with bilily strength and industry: all their dresses woven with their own hands; their houses |rpass, in. elegance ?nd nealsiess, nmny on the intinent; their furniture is composed of the st materials, and manufactured by ingenious tisans, many articles of which are furnished by Japanese. They have also an important tide of commerce, unknown to the uarrow of Tartary, from the exchange of which At Cape Crillon the navigators received thn visits of ^iTiil islanders on l)')ard: (hey at first manirest(>d some iptiinis of fear and distrust, bnt those appn-hensions ^udily vanished: they seated themselves fam'ii^irly in a rie on the qnarter-deck, aud cheerfu!!y sinokett tlieir tm. Presents of nu:ikeen, tubacro, silks. Iron iiistnu ■its, and beads, Mrcrc liberally conferred upon them; Imt brnsently. appeared that tobaeco and brandy went hchi in Iher eRtiinntion than any other articles, and these iiad ^n but sparingly distributed among them ; because the acco was required for the ships' companies, and di^ neable consequences might arise from the incautious use brandy. (irave in their manners, they expressed their thanks by ^OL. II. No. LXVIII. arises all their wealth. Of the whale oil ther make a most plentiful harvest, though their manner of extractiug it may not be consistent with economy: they cut the flesh of the whale into little pieces, and expose it to (he air and sun, to rot upon a kind of slope; and >hc oil which tiows from it is received into vessels made of bark. These islanders who came on board, retired before night, after answering, .as well as they could, such questions respecting the geography of the country and its environs. On theif de- parture they promised, by sic'iis, to return the next day: that promise was punctually perform- ed, for at the dawn of day (hey appeared on board, with a quantity of salmon, which they exchanged for hatchets and knives: they also sold a sable on board, and a linen habit of the construction of the country; and beheld w th regret that the frigates were preparing to sail. They earnestly solicited the ships' company to double Cape Crillon, and to stay in a small bay, which they called Tabouoro. A light breeze having sprung up from the north-east. La Perouse made a signal for getting under way, and at first directed h' , course to the south-east, which is terminated by a rock, to- wartls which the tide strongly sets in. Having doubled it, a second rock was discovered from the mj.st-head, about four leagues from the point towards the south-east. He named thia La DrtM,£>T;YMsc, I'rom its being level with the surface of the water, and might probably be covered at the hciglit of (he tide. The sea broke very mutli upon it, but whether from the elfect of the title, or the sand-hanks which sur- round it is uncertain. The next day he saw Cape Aniva bearing north-west, and perceived file eastern coast, receding to tlio northward to- wards Cape Patience. The weather continued Bohle and solemn gestures; but their iniportuniticw for ad. dilioual presents were most pri^eiinitly enforced; tliough thoy h.id not (hi- gratitude to oiieij in return, any of the salmon with « hich their canoes were laden : many of whirii they carried with them on shore, because they could iidt obtain the extnivaijant prices for them that they deraaiulv!d. They ha iitinacy, and the $eu. mined the most southerly of thum: he therefore thought it would hare been imprudent to sacrifice to an unimportant enquiry the health of the ships' companies, which begun to require reit. JIc Uiciufure stood north nurth.east, and leagues to the westward. The night xras ex. Iremely fine, the winds settled at east north-east and they entered the channel by the light of tli( moon: La Perousc honoured it with the name cl; Canal dc la Boussole; it being the finest be- tween the Kuriles*. On the 5th of September, though the fog coni tinued obstinate, the navigators crowded sail k% the midst of darkness, and at six in the evening- of the same day, it cleared up, and enabled them to see the ro.^s't of Kamtschatka; the whole nfJj which ap])eared hideous: the eye surveved witli | terror enorhions masses of rocks, which in tiic-l beginning of September were envc^loped in snow The next day they approached the land, anil found it agreeable to behold when near; and the base of the.se enormous summits, crownrii with eternal ice, was carpeted with the moi beautiful verdure, finely diversified with trees, In the evening of the 6th, they made the en- ^ trance of Avatcha Bay or Saint Peter and Saini Paul. The light-house, erecfed by the Russian! on the east point of the entrance, was not kindled: during the niffixt; as vn excuse for which the jrovernor declined, the iA?xt dav. that all theit efforts to keep it burning haf^ been ineffectual: the wind hin! con«tantly extinguished the flaint ^ which was only sheltered by four planks of wood very indifl'ereiitly cemented; and was not modellci! after a.iy of the light-houses of Italy, Egvpl ■ or ancient (i recce. \ At two in the anernoon of the 7th, they en' tered the bay; when the governor came in In- canoe five leagues to meet them ; though thr^ care of the lig;ht-liou8e hiid occupied his attcni tion during the night, he took he blame ort himself of not having succecde • ' i his endear vours to render it perfect. He ;.iformed thrrl that they had been long expected there, and tliaJ he believed the governor-general of the Penitia sula, wlio wan expected at Saint Peter and Sail! Paul in a few days, had letters for thcin. gave up his project of coming to an anchor at one of (f'% Kuriles, to obsrrm (he nature of the laud, and the manim .I and customs of tlit- inliabitunt«. | ile farther observes that the aspect of the soutkn | islands, close to which he ran along, is extremely dreari and he expresses his opinion that the Company's Islunii those of the Four Brothers, i.liureckan Island, iic. are m inhabitable rocks, without verdure and vegtitablo eanii and can ouly serve as a miserable refuge to persons shi^ wrecked. SECTION PEROUSE'« VOYAGE RO UND TH E WORLD. SECTION XIII. S$ '■>%-,* ipi'tt of the goutlicn isi cxtrrniely dnsir the Compaiiy'ii Ulaiu. .ail Igl»iid, iic. aro m and vcgetablo eant cfiigo to persons M^- vj of Aval ska— Obliging Reception there — Arrival of Mr. Hasloff— Great Attention of the lOovernor — i Ball of the Kamtschadales — A Courier brings Letters from France — Departure.-^ ]SEPT£^fBE^, 1787. HE Frencli navigators were hardly moored befoxe the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint ul, when they received a visit from he Toyon, chief of the village^ with several other in- ibitants; all of whom made them presents of mon or skate: they also made them a tender their services in hunting bears, or iq shooting cks which abounded in their ponds and rivers. ir olfers were gladly accepted, and wild fovvl never wanting during their continuance in Bay of Avatscka. They required no re- rd for their labours, but the grateful French- n insisted upon being permitted to make them proper compensation. The government of Kamtschatka had been terially changed since the departure of the Inglish, and was now only a dependency of that. Okhotsk. These particulars were coramu- cated to our navigators by lieutenant Kaborof, vernor of the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint ul, having a serjoant and forty soldiers under command. He told them that Mr. Kaslotl' ugreuin, the governor of Okhotsk, was ex- ctcd at Saint Peter and Saint Paul in a few jlys. M. de Lessops, who acted as interpreter, d who perfectly understood the Russian Ian- age, wrote a letter, in La Perouse's name, to governor of Okhotsk, to whom La Perouse o wrote in French himself. He told him that le nfTi'ative of Cook's last voyage had spread road the fame of the hospitality of the K.amt> Ihadale governineut: and he llattered himself lut he, should be as favourably received us the nglish navigators; ns his voyage, like theirs, la intended for the general benofit of all muri- le nations. As Mr. Kasloirs answer could not possibly ar- i* M. K abort! ft'' 8 zeal was much oxcittHl in favour of Ihe ktiiraliiit!! : eight Custiackii were immediately ordered tu Company M. Bernizet, and two other gentlemen, ti> assist lit laborious undertaking for the advtineemunt of Hrience. >n« uf the learned, who had travelled in Kanilsehatka, ever ventured upon so difltcult mi cnterprize. From aspect of the mountain, La Pcrouw supposed it be inaccessible. No verdure was perceptible — it was ily a bare rock, of which the declivity was woudcr- rive for some days, the lieutenant informed La Perouse, that he only antiripated his orders, and those of the empress of Russia^ by requesting that he would, in tUe mean titie, consider him- self at home, ai'd indulge freely in every thinff the country woulu atford. The serjeant, and M the soldiers manifested the strongest inclinations of rendering every service in their power ; and Mrs. Kaborolf, on her part, was infmitely obliging. Every one was anxious of conferring favours upon these French visitors; and, spite of their determination not to receive any, it was impossible to be inattentive to the solicitations of the lieutenant's lady, who prevailed on La Pe- rouse, M. de Langle, and their officers to accept a few skins of sables, rein-deer, and foxes, which -,;ere certainly more useful to them, than to per- sons who were destined to return towards thts tropics. The visitors, however, were permitted to discharge the obligation, by presenting them with such articles as were not to be found i.t Kamtschatka. A conmiodious house in the village was k; iidly offered them for the purpose cf accommodating the astronomers, who had hardly erected their observatory, when the naturalists, equally zealous with themselves in the pursuit of science, re- solved to visit the volcano at the distance of about eight leiigues. A mountain, almost co- vered with snow, presented a crater at the sum- niit; the mouth of which turned towards thq buy of Avatscka, emitting coij>.tiintly thick flouds of smoke; and once, during the night, faint blue and yellow llanies were perceived, v»hich rose to a considerable height*. Their guides had only undertaken to conduct them to the bottom of the peak, an antient prc- full;; steep. The intrepid adventurers, ho\v(!ver, enter, tained hopes of surniouiitiiig these obstacles. Th» Cossacks were the bearers of their burgage, which consisted of a tent, several skiii>i, and a quantity of provision : the na« turalists undertook to carry the barometers, the therraoa meters, and the otlier articles required fur making accurate observation, not choovLng to risk sucii frajjilc iiutrumenta in other hands. jiidice ft! ri»*t Wl] %"i i ir^ \\\ It I 1 i li 1*1 ■^i^^p« '■aRpnvMma «4 TKItOUSK's VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. judice having induced both Kamtschadalcs and Aussians to believe, that the mountain emits a vapour whicb would instantly suffocate the rash adventurer who >v(iuld dare to ascend it. They perhaps supposed that the natural philosophers, like themselves, would stoj) at the foot of tie volcano. Full of this idea they set oft" in high spirits., without halting till they came (o the middle of the >voods, at the distance of sic leagues from Suiiit Peter and Saint Paul. The ground nd the steep, and conliiiiied their progress till three in the afternoon, tvhen they approached the very edge of tiie (prater. They liad often been under the necessity of crawling upon their hands and knees, to facilitate their passage among the brolien rocks, and to avoid some dan- gerous precipices. The mountain is principally composed of lava^ more or less porous. Uypscous stones, and i which was almost white: not a single bear, relii. deer, or argali*, having made its appearance, (hough these animals are common in that country. Rising at the dawn of the next day, they pro- ceef'ed on their j.iurney: a great quantity of snow had fallen during the night, and what wan more distrtssing, a thick fog obscured «he vol- canic mountain, the foot of which was not reached by the philosoplcrs till three in the afternoon. Their guides, adhering to their stipulation, stop- ped on their arrival at the limits of ;he vegeta- tive earth, pitched their tents, and lighted a fire A night's rest was found a n'.'cessary preparativ to the fatigues of the ensuing day f. Willie thi« experiment was making, the na- vigators canscvl their casks to be filled with water, and their hold with wood: they tdso cut a quan- tity of grass, and dried it for the consumption of the cattle they expected, for Ihey had now only one sheep left alive. The finest grass grow* in natural meadows at Kamtschatka to the heiglii of about four itei, and an immense quantity of hay might be provided for the winter, which in this climate continues upwards of seven months; but the Kamtschadales prefer their present modr i of living upon the produce of their hunting and ' fishing. The Cossnck8> and the Russians, wlin are more expert soldiers than farmers, have adopt- ed the same method. The lieutenant and the serjeant were the oiilv persons who had inclo.sed little gardens for tlir cultivation of turni|>3 and potatoes; their ex- ample had no influence over their neighbours, who did not dislike those edible roots, but thej; were not inclined to be at any trouble to produce them : had they grown spontaneous, like snran-i nc, garlick, and the berries from which their (' (fi crystallized sulphur were found at the summit; but tli>' latter was inferior to that of the Peak of Tcneriire. \\\ the other stones they found here, were less beautiful thai: those of that ancient volcano, which has not erupted fdi; a century past; though the Kamtsrhadalian mountain Wd'ji an eruption iu 177H, whilo Captain Clarke was in the liirt of Avatscka. According to the calculations of the natr, : i philosophers, the travellers ascended about fifteen hundn: '% toises, an amazing height considering the diSiculties (In i : bad to surmount. Their views having been frustrated b) t fog, they resolved to go over the same ground again rhr succeeding day ; but a prodigious fall of snow, and othn adverse circumstances intervening, induced them to abandu;: all idea of eaga;ging in a repetition of the ascent, and (hi'; returned to (he village of Saiat Pelcr and Saint Paul. mo^i !| 1 Pfhousk's Voyage i^ouNft tHt; WdiiLtir $s single bear, reiit* 5 its appearance, :f| ominon in tliut !xt day, they pro- 1 jreat quantity oftf ht, anc5 what wml obscured {he vol- [rh was not reached in the af teriiooii, stipulation, stop- J its of y/ie vegeta- and lighted a firp,| essarj preparative dayf. making, the na- s fjl led with water/, y iiiso cut a quan- • the consumption . for they had now.' finest grass groM< liatkato the height mense quantity of; ! winter, which inll ) of seven months: their present modf]^ their hunting and the Russians, wlio rmers, have adopt- eant were the oiilv le gardens for titf I )tatoes; their ex- their neighbours,, »Ic roots, but thejl trouble to prodnccf nuous, like suran-i roni wliich thritl the summit; but (liej ak of Tcucriirc. Allf re Ic53 beautiful that; ti has not PiMiptcd fill if ladiiliaii inounUin hai'.p larke was iu the hii \ ulatiuus of the nati% ;^ about fifteen hundr.;] iff the difliculties tlur! ig been frustrated b) t ame ground again th; II of snow, and olim luccd them to abaiulu; ' the ascent, and tin i and Saint Paul. mo'i If est agreeable beverage was procured, they ould gladly iiave indulged in theui; In the midst of their labours, bur navigators evoted intervals to pleasure, and engaged in iveral hunting parties on the rivers Avatscka id Paratoiinka, expecting to be able to shoot a iw rcin-dccr, bears, or other quadrupedc in- labitantb of that climate. They were obliged, .oweverj to content themselves with a few ducks ir ttal, an inferior sort of game, which were con- idcred as a poor compensation for their hibo- ous excursions, But if their own endeavours ere not so suceessful as their sanguine expec- tions had ])redicted, their friends au-ong th.o ^amtschadales made ample amends for the uis- ippointment. During their stay they had re- ived from the inhabitants of the village, an k, four bears, and a rein-deer, with such a uantity of divers, and other wild fowl, that ley found it necessary to distribute a con- iderable part of tliem among their crews. This as rendered the more necessary as they had 'en cloyed by a super-abundance of fish : a single st of the net, alongside of the frigates, would ve procured sufficient sustenance for half a zen ships; but there was little variety of ecies, cod, salmon, Iserrings, and plaicey were inosl the only produce »>f the net. Mr. Kasloft", on his arrival at Saint Peter and int Paul, after having taken a tour through is provinces, politely informed the navigators, jat he had perceived by the public papers, that iveral able naturalists had embarked on board ieir frigates j and that he should be happy to ail himself of so fortunate a circumstance, lat he might learn tlM^ nature of the minerals of le peninsula, and thus become a naturalist liim- |lf As bespoke French, and was well iiiforni- of the object of their research, it may oasiiy conceived that an intimacy nuist have been .mediately formed. The day after his arrival he wont to dine with On tho following day the governor, ■with .ill his Mille, led on board the Astrolabe, where he also was honoured |h the discharge of thirteen guns; but lie eurueslly re. led that he might receive no more compliments f>f that Jtfil kiud, and that they niiglit sec each other on friendly familiar terms. It was impossible to prevail on him to ept of the value of the oxen, though re|)catedly urged llie most pressing terms that rould be devised: hi* only ^tilted that he could not furnish hit friends with a greater !»il)cr. lie invited them to partake of a ball, to be given he suceeeding day on (heir account, to ail llic \>umuu of 'ot.U. No.LXVUI. La Perouse onboard the Hou^sole, in company with Mr SohennlHF, an, J the vicar of Para- touiika. liy La PcMouse'.s order, he was saluted with thirteen gun.s. Mr. Kaslolf, after recipro- cal compliments, expressed the utmost concern at nis inability to procure more than seven oxen befbre the tinle of his departure; as there was no resource btit that of waiting for their beiiig brought from the river of Kamtschatka, a hun- dred leagues distant from Saint Peter and Saint Paul*. The ball commenced with Russian dance.", the tunes of which were pleasing. The Kaml- schadale dances, which followed, resembled those 6f the Convulsionaircs at the well-known tomb of Saint Medard f. The Kamtschadale fe- males, by their convulsions and contracted mo- tions, create disagreeable sensations in the s])cc- tators, which are aggravated by a i)itiful cry unnaturally drawn from the pit of their stomachs, and which is the only music id rc;;iiate the steps of these wonderful pert'or'ners. The violent fatigue of this exercise excites such profuse per- spiration, that many of the party sink motionless on the ground, losing for. a time the power of rising. The exhalations from their bodies per- fumed the apartment with the delicious odour of oil and lisli, to which Euro|)ean noses are too little accustomed to form a judgment of its fra- grance. The dances of these nations having ever been imitative and pantomimical. La Perouse request- ed to know what two of the most active of the' women meant to express, in their most violent exertions. He was respectfully informed, that they had given the representation of a bear-hunt: the women yvho rolled on the ground had per- formed the part of the animal; and the otiior was the accomplished hunter. But never were b^ars more awkwardly represented! Tliis- dance, etiualiy fatiguing to the beholders and the porlbrmers, was hardly finished, when a St. IVtor and St, Paul; infonuiiij; them that, if (l;c as- semlily was not numerous, it would at least he cuiious: tliii'leen women, elad in silk, ten of whom were Kaiiiu sehadales, were sitting round tlie room on benches : the, latter were rciidercd remarkable Iiy their broad faces, littiti, eyes and Hat iiosrs; the otiier three were Uussians. All the ladies had silk handkerchiefs tied about (heir heads,, seemingly in imitation of tiie Mulatto womiu in the Frencli West-India Islands. + The tomb of a pious Abbe at Paris, '.ihcre lameness is cured by iln^nsiiig the patient 'u\(oi:o K'tih''.'ii<. V joyful ] J n ! li ' Sill h li', 'f> ■ !• ) 1 1 h 1 ! i ■ 56 PFT^OUSF's VOYAGF, HOUND THE WORLD. joyful exclamation announced the arrival of a courier from Ockholsk. He was Ihc. bearer of a large trunk filled with packets for the French vovagers. The ball was interrupted, and each of the females di.-imissed with a goblet of brandy, a refreshment well calculated for smli votaries of Terpsichore. Mr, Kasloft", perceiving: the im- patience of the French navigators to learn the news of what could not fail of being highly in- teresting to them, entreated tlietn not to defer that pleasure, and conducted them into his own apartment, that the different eflusions produced by the relation of different events, might not be improperly restrained*. La Peronse expressed his surprise at finding the aged Ivaschtkin in Kanitschatka, the English accounts having stated that he had obtained per- mission to go and reside at Okhotsh. He could not avoid feeling much concern for the fate of this unfortunate man, when he was informed, that some indiscreet expressions respecting the empress Elizabeth, was bis only crime; and those were uttered at the breaking up of a con- vivial party, when his reason was disordered by wine. He was then under twenty, and an officer in the guards. He belonged to a Russian family of distinction, and could boast of a handsome face and figure. He was banished to the interior of Kanitschatka, after having received the pu- nishment of the knout, and endured the slitting of the nostrils. The empress Catherine granted this nnfortuoKte man n pardon many years ago; but the bitter recollection of his ignominious punishment, and his resentment of so flagrant a sentence for so trivial an offence, rendered him insensible to a tardy act of justice, and he seemed determined to end his days in Siberia. He point- ed out the grave of IVl". de la Croyere, of the • The intt'Hij^onuc coiitaiiu'd in these packets was gene- rally isatisfiutory, particulurly to LalViouse; who, by a degree of fiivour to wliirh he did jiot pri'sume to uspire, hnd been promoted to thr rank of coniirioilore. Tiic coin- pliments he received on this event, soon r;c metal the inscription jvci the grave of ("aptain Clerke, wiiich had then beei* only wriden by a pencil upon wood, and was too perisViablc li perpetuate the memory of s.» estimable a navigator. Tin governor did more than comply with the prayer ( f this \)v. titioii: he promised to erect, without delay, a nonumi'ii* more worthy of those two celebrated men, who I'ied in tlit midst of their arduous undertaking at so great a distance from their native land. 2 bablv m PKnOUSr< VOYAGE ROUND THF, WORT.D. $f Paris, Avlio died tl by Iiis coimfrv. per, docs liunour s e a navigator, 'lin he prayer < f this (n- delay, a notiiinuii' men, who iMed in tin so great 4 distance bal)l Ibly soon disappear; for the Kamfschadales i ^itate the maimers and dresses of the Rnssians*. lit is curious to sec, in their little cottages, a lantity of cash in circulation; and it may be nsidcrcd as still a greater curiosity, be considered as a mark of gratitude to. rds the soverei^'n, the produce of half u day's hunting iDK suHkient to disrhurge the imposts of a year. + On a .seli'clcd spot Mr. Kasl<>if purposes laying down plan of a city, which may hereafter become the capital Kamtsrhatka; and perhaps the centre of ati extensive e with China, Japan, the Phillippines, and America. prudently observed, however, that bread and hands ire required, and that their stock of thciu was very small : ; he ventured to give orders which announced a speedy ion of the other ostrogs to that of Saint Peter and Saint III, where it was his intention speedily to erect a church. e Greek religion hsis been established among the Kamt- adales without diliiculty, persecution, or violcuce. Xhc vicar of Parfttouuka is tbc son gf a KamtscbaUalc &c. as high as ^^4, which Inst terminates the prettmsions of Ru.s8ia. Of these twenty-four islands belonging to Russia, four only are in- habited, the first, the .second, the thirteenth, and the fourteenth. The last two may indeed be considered as one, the inhabitants passing the winter upon No. 14, and return to No. 13 to pass the sumiuer months. The others are un- inhabited, though they are occasionally visited by the islanders, who come in their canoes for the pleasure and emolument of hunting foxes and otters. Several of these last mentioned islands are little better than large rocks, and not one among them is embellished with a single tree. The currents being very violent and dan- gerous between the rocks, the vicar never made the voyage from Avatscka to the Kuriles in any thing but a canoe; and even then had several times been nearly lost, or perishing with hunger, having been driven out of the sight of land: h* attributed his preservation to his cassock and his holy water. The population of the four inha- bited islands does not exceed fourteen hundred: the inhabitants live upon seals, fish, and the produce of the chase; the males are remarkably hairy, and wear long beards. These people are- po(ir, iii»>fli'nsive, and hcspitable, and have alt embraced the Christian religion. The approach of winter now warned our na- vigators to depart: the ground, which on their arrival on the 7th of September, was adorned with the most beautiful verdure, was as yellow and parched up on the 25th of the same months as it is in the environs of Paris at the conclusion of December. La Perouse therefore gave pre— father, and a Russian nioiher. ITe performs his sacred functions with an accent and feeling highly gratifying to his auditqr.s, who reward ills cares and endeavours with of' ferings aiul alms, but pay no tithes. The raiions of tlio Greek church permitting priests to marry, appears to be a kind of security for the morals of the country clergymen.- La Perouse, however, believes thetn to be very ignorant, and suppusL.s they uilt Iwig roiitiiiue .so. He admits that the daughter, the wife, and tin; .s'jter of the vicar, were- the best dancers among the «omen, and seemed to enjoy a perfect state of health; Tliu .vortliy priest knew that the naviisators were good catholics, whirh procnreil tliem an' nmplc aspersion (if holy water; and he also enjoined them- to kiss the cross which was carried by the ck-rk. Theso eercmonies were performed in an unincKned part of tho- village, where a tent was his parsonage-house, and his altar the (ipen air: but the usual place of hit abode was at Pa-- ratounka ; he appeared at Saiut Peter aud Saint Paul only 08 a visitor. ''■ • 'f, - „■. .f'' paratory 58 PEROUSE's VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.- paratory orders for their departure, and on the 29th got under way. Mr. Kasloff came to take a final leave of him, and dined on board. He accompanied him on shore, with M. dc Lapgie, and several officers, and was liberally entertain- ed with a good supper, and another ball. At day-break the next morning, La Pcrousc made the signal for sailing; soon after which he heard a discharge of all the cannon of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. He ordered a return |1 be made to this salute^ which was repeated if the mouth of the bay, the governor having siJ a detachment of soldiers to pay him the honouif of departure. It was with considerable rcgrt^ that they parted with ]\I. de Lcsscps^ wliojl good qualities had endeared hiui to all who Wi the happiness of approaching him. I M I iN 1!^ li !l SECTION XIV. Account of Kamtschatka-^Bajj of Avatscka — Makfithe Island of jyavigator s—Heceive ilsitsfn,' several Canoes — Barter ivitli the Indians — Anchor at the Island of JSIa,ouna — Manners, Custom &;c. of the Islanders of Maouna— The BcaiUy of the Countrjj contrasted ivilh the Ferocity of ii Inhabitants — M. de Langle goes on Shore to ■uifitcr his Ship, -With Four Boats manned m- armed — J\I. de Langle, and Eleven other Persons murdered— Septemreb, Octobek, nn December, 1787. THE Russians, as earnest after peltry as the Spaniards are after gold and silver^ have lung undertaken the most tedious and difficult journies by land, to obtain the valuable spoils of the sable, the fox, and the sea-otter : but as- suming the character of soldiers rather than hunters, they thought proper io impose a tribute upon the natives of the country they had sub- dued, instead of sharing with them in the fa- tigues of the chase. The peninsula of Kamt- schatka was discovered by them near the close of the seventeenth century, the first expedition against tlie liberty of its wretched inhabitants being undertaken in 1696. The authority of Russia was fully acknowledged throughout the peninsula in 17) 1. The court of Russia has several times changed the form of government in this counfry: that which the English found established in 1778, was totally altered in 1784: Kamtschatka being then a jjrovince oi the govenuuent of Okhotsk, which is itself a dependency of the sovereign * Russia has been at vt-ry little expcncc in extending her dominions: commercial houses tit out vessels at Okhotsk, which are from forfy-tive to fifty feet long, with a single inast in the middle, carrying from forty to fifty men, who '•arc all more expert us huntsmen, (hart iis seamen. They sail from Okhotsk in June, pass between the point of Lopatka, and the first of Kuriles, steer eastward, and rnn from island to islan/. for three or four years, till they havn louglit or killed a sullicient number of otters to pay the cxpencc of fitting out, and yield the merchants a prolit of cent, per ant. upon the capital advanced. court of Irfcdutsk. The Osti'og of fiolcheretsl formerly the capital of Kamtschatka, wlicr Major Behnt resided when the English arrive: there, is now governed by a serjcant naimi Martinoff, and the other places by persons rc^ spcctively appointed. These, commandants :i[ not responsible to each othef, but sevorall render their own account directly to the ffovenii): of Okhotsk, who has e8fabli.shed an ins|)ertiv with the rank of major, and with a particiih command over the Kamtschadales*. In some respects the French navigatoris uor less chilly than the Russian and Kanifschadiil inliabitantj of the ostrog of Saint Peter uiii. Saint Paul. They were clothed wilh the tliickiv skins. The heated air deprived the Frciul- voyagers of respiration, and obliged the lien tenant to open the windows whenever they wen in his apartment. Thn population of the Kami ' schadales is now estimated at four thousiiml scattered over the whole peninsula; and froic its extent it is calculated that there arc sevcra! It Is now gcnrrally known that furs fetch a high prioii Kiatcha, on the frontiers of China and Russia. Twiniu five vessels, the crews consisting of about a thousand imii, had been sent this yeai' in quest of furs to ther eastward i' ' Kamtschatka; long experience having tanght thorn, Ik the otlers hardly ever frequent the latitudes farther tioni than the 60th degree. When these vessels return, thpj sometimes put In at the bay of Avatscka; but alw.iys n. puir ultimately to Okhotsk, the nsaal residenrc of tlitir owners, and of the merchants who trade directly M'ilh t!i' Chinese on the frontiers of the two empires. square; PEROUSE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. I» ,jttrc lenguM for eacb individual. They cul- .vate no production of the earth ; and, as they ^efer dogs to rein-deer in drawing tlieir sledges, ley no longer breed hogs, sheep, rein-deer, irses, or oxen, supposing those animals would devoured before they could acquire strength „d activity to defend themselves. Fish is the bmmon aliment of their draught dogs, which kvel about twenty-four leagues a-day, and fe never fed till they have completed their hurney. [The bay of Avatscka resembles that of I»rcst, it aflords much better holding ground ; its cn- ance is also narrower, and more easily to be jBfended : no mineral or vegetable substances fere found upon its shores, but such as are ex- feedingly common in Europe. The north wind, Ihich favoured the navigators at sailing out of \e bay of Avatscka, deserted them when they ere two leagues in the offing. It shifted, and Bw with such obstinacy, that they abandoned Eir plan of reconnoiteriog, and laying down e latitude and longitude of the Kuriles, as far the isle of Marikan. While our navigators jre searching for a large, rich, and well- iopled island, said to have been discovered by ke Spaniards in 1620, they met with a real mis- ^rtune : a seaman fell overboard from the As- )labe, in the act of furling the mizen-top-gal- Int-sail. Whether he was wounded in the fall, could not swim, they could not ascertain, At he never rose again. Signs of land were seen on the I8th and 19th: ' ^hts of ducks, and other birds that frequent i shore were observed. Indeed the signs of Jid were too frequent, and of too decided a Mure to admit of any further doubt. On the Jit of November, after experiencing several Icissitudes of weather, a great number of birds rere seen; and, among others, curlews and lovers, two species which are never observed at Jiy considerable distance from land. Some large louds remaining constantly fixed towards the * Oo the 6th of November they fortunately caught eight Dnctas, which furniBhcd a good repast to tho whole crew, pd to tho officers. The rail, and itorms ceased, and tho ivy tea subsided about the fifteenth, when fine weather ||con)i)anied out navigators beyond tho equator, which ey crossed on the Slst of November, for tiio third time ICO their departure fiom Brest. On tho 23d they caught ro sharks, which supplied the crow with two mcalu, and th/a lamo day they shot a lean emaciated carle w. As Vol. II. No. LXIX. south, induced La Perouse to imagine that tliere was land in tha( :oint of the compass, and he steered his course accordingly, continuing to see birds for two or three successive days. By degrees, however, tliesc harbingers deserted him, and he began to enjoy a serene sky. About this time the navigators caught several doradoes, and a couple ot sharks, upon which they fared dcliciously; all the crew having*- been reduced to salt pork, which had received some injury from the influence of a burning clime. Having at length reached the tropic, the sky became still clearer, and the horizon was of great extent; but no land was perceived, though birds were every day niet with which are never seen far distant from the shore. On the 4th of November they caught a golden plover which appeared to be moderately fat, and therefore could not have been long- at sea; on the 5th they crossed their own track from Monterey to Macao; and on the 6th that of Captain Clerkc from the Sandvrich Islands to Kamtschatka, when the birds had entirely disappeared. A heavy bwell from the east, like that from the west in the Atlantic ocean, constantly prevails in this vast sea: they saw neither bonetas nor doradoes, nor any thing but a few flying iish ; a distressing circumstance as their fresh provision was entirely consumed. The sea was smooth, and the breezes moderate ; but the sky was covered with thick clouds, and it began to rain almost incessantly during the day, though the nights were tolerably fine : the heat was iiufibcatitij^', accompanied with great humidity*. Klack goeiettees and others entirely white, were so extremely plenty, that they killed more of them than of noddies, or man of war birds: and yet the latter flew round the ships in such numbers, especially during the night, that they almost stunned the people on the quarter-deck, who could not, without dilnculty, hear each ether speak ; but, to punish their insults, roany of them were killed and devoured. they advanced in tho southern hemisphere the noddies nnd tropic birds, Hew more frequnntiy round tho ships, w hich they fondly imagined were the harbingers of some island. In the intervening calms several sharks were captured, which were preferred to salt provision ; even the ioa.birds, which now frequently became the sailors' prey, thougli lean and highly impregnated with a fishy smell and taste, were .y^oufbt at Uclicious as partridges or woodcocks. Q Induced 60 PEROlJSrS VOYAGK ROUND THE WOIILD. ' Induced by a western gale, La Peroiise at- tempted to reach tlie parallel of Bougainville's Navigators hiands. a discovery due to the French, where fresh provision might probably be procured. On th« 0th of December, at three in the afternoon, he saw the most easterly island of the Archipelago, and stood on and off during the rest of the evening and night. Mean- ing to anchor if he met with a proper place, La Perouse passed through the channel between the great and the little islands that Bougainville left to the south: though hardly a league wide, it appeared perfectly free from danger. He saw no canoes till he was in the channel, yet he beheld several habitations on the windward side of the island, and a group of Indians sitting under the shade of cocoa-nut trees, who seemed delighted with the prospect afl'urded by the fri- gates*. At length they made sail, in order to stand away from the coast, and get out of the region of calms. All the canoes came immediately alongside: they sail tolerably well, but row very indiflerently ; as they frequently overset, they Vrould be useless to those wh<» are not such excellent swimmers as these islanders are. After such a trivial accident, they take the canoe on their shoulders, pour the water out of it, and then get in again, expecting a speedy repetition of the same operation. The general height of these islanders is about five feet, seven or eight inches: their colour resembles that of the Al- gerines or the other nations of the coast of Bar- bary: their hair, which' is long, is tied up on the top of their heads, and their cast of coun- tenance is unpleasing. La Perouse saw only two of their women, and their features were not nore delicately formed. By the sores and ulcers on their legs, it seemed probable that the le- prosy was prevalent among them. They ap- V :• This island, of abuiit two hundred tolsrs elovatiou, is steep, and covered to the top with large trees, nian^' of which ajjpeared to be of the cocoa-nut kind. The honses extend about half way down the deelivitj'. aO'ording tlie Bativcs a cooler air than if erected nearer llio hore. Se- Tcral spots of ground appeared to be cnltivali'd; but, npon the whole, the island seemed far from fertile. Two little island!), which form (he western side of the channel, through which wc i)3ssed, ha?e also their inhabitants. Five canoes were obscrred to set out from them, and join riercn others that came from the eastern island. After having paddled several times round the ships, and di$playeVbile a part of the crew was occupied in keeping them in order, and dealing witli them, the rest were dispatching empty casks on shore to be replenished with water. Two boats of the HouHsole, armed, and commanded by ]Messrs. de Clonard and Colinct, and those of the As- trolabe, commanded by JMcssrs. de Monti and llellegarde, set o(f with that view at live in the morning, for a bay at the distanct; of about a league. La Perouse followed close aftfr Messrs. Clonard and Monti, in his pinnace, and landed when they did. It unfortunately happened that M. de Lungle had formed a resolution to make an excursion in his jolly-beat to another creek, at the distance of about a league from their watering place: from this excursion a dire mis- fortune ensued. The creek, towards which the long-boats steered, was large and commodious: these, and the other boats, remained afloat at low water, within half a j)istol shot of the beach, and excellent water was easily procured. Great order was observed by Messrs. de Clonard and de Monti. A line of soldiers was posted between the beach and the natives, who amounted to about two hundred, including many women and children. They were prevailed on to sit down under cocoa-trees, at a little distance from the boats: each of them had fowls, hogs, pigeons, or fruit, and all of them were anxious to dis- pose of their articles without delay, which treated some confusion*. ■ ~ - While pearanec, armed with sticks, to restore order. Every one now returned to his ])ost, and Iratlie bei^an afresh, to tho satisfaction of both purchasers and sellers. In the mean lime an act of hostility had occurred in Ls Perouse's Jong-boat, which he was ilesirous of repressinj* without cfi'usiun of blood: an Indian had taken a mallet from the stern of the boat, and aimed several blows at tUa arms and back of one of the sailors. L\ Perouse ordered four 6t ?r:nmjsrs VOTACI? round thk wonto. 'I; While matteM were (huj passing wiOi perfect tranquillity, and the casks expeditiously filling with water. La Perouse ventured to visit a charm- ing village, situated in the midst of a ncighhour- ingwood, the trees of which were loaded with delicious fruit. The houses formed a circle of about one huridrci and iiflj toises in diameter, leaving an interior (pen space, beautifully ver- dant, and shided wi'.h trees, which rendered the air delightfully cool and refreshing. Women, children, and aged men attended him, and earnest!)' importuned him to enter their houses: they even spread their linest mats upon a floor, decorated with chosen pebbles, and raised a con- venient distance from the ground, to prevent of- fensive liumidity. La Perouse condescended to enter one of the handsomest of these huts, which was prol)al)ly inhabited by a chief, and was as- tonished to behold a large cabinet of lattice- Work, in which as much taste and elegance were displayed as if it had been produced in the en- virons of Paris, This enchanting country, blessed with a fruit- ful soii without culture, and enjoying a climate which renders cloathing inmecessary, holds out to these fortunate people an abundance of the most estimable ftJod, The trees invite the natives to partake of the bread-fruit, the banana, the foc(m-nut, and the orange; while the swine, fowls, and dogs, which partake of the surplus of these fruits, afford them a rich variety of viands. The inhabitants of this enviable spot, were so rich, and so entirely free from wants, four of his sailori to throw him into the tica, and his com. niiind was iiutantly obeyed. Tho other islanders, disap. proving of the conduct of their countryman, manifested no a]ipearuucc of resentment, and no ill consequences were apprehended. To intimidate these islanders, (who wore ' formidable by their muscular limbs and coloksal proportions, their general height being also about Ave feet ten inches,) La Perouse thought it expedient to give them a specimen uf Ao force of his fire-arms: he therefore purchased three pigeons, which were thrown up into (he air, and instantly f/hut them with the musket, to tho great amusement of the whole multitude. * Thrice happy arc these islanders! exclaimed many of their Kura|)oan visitors. — {Surrounded by their wives and chiMron, thc.y pass their blissful dtiys in innocence and repose. — But alas! they were deceived — this delightful country was not the abode pf innocence! — Though the na. rigators perceived no arms, the bodies of the Indiani, mu. tilated and distorted with scars, proved them to be a hostile race; and their features anuounecd a ferocity which mani. f«stc4 » dclijht in turbuiencO) quarrelling, and initumanity, that they looked with disdain on the cloth and iron tendered by the French visitors, and onl^ designed to become customers for bends. Abound, ing in real blessings, the/ languished only for su|)er(liiitics!''*. No disagreeable consequences attended th, first visit: there had indeed been slight com- motions between individuals, but they had pru- dently been appeased. Stones had been thrown at M. Rollin, the surgeon-major; and an Indian, nrclending to admire M. do Moncron's suhro, had attempted to snatch it from him; but fmdin' the sciibbord in his hand, without a sheath, li^ ran away terrified at the sight of the naked wea- pon. As it was sufliciently evident that thes? islanders were turbulent, and little under the sub- jection of their chiefs, La Perouse congratulattd liimself on his not having punished with seve- rity the little instances of niolestatiuii he had met with. Towards noon he returned to tlif ship in his barge, being closely followed by ik long-boats. He found it diilicult to get alo.i^. side, tho frigates being surrounded by canuo, and the market continuing much crowded f. The boats of the Boussole now arrived loailei with water, and La Perouse made every pre|)a ration io get under way, M. de Langle, at tht same instant returned from his excursion, ant mentioned his having landed irt a noble harbou of boats, at the foot of a delightful village, nn^ near a cascade of transparent water. He spoki of this watering place as infinitely more coiu- modioui thaa any other, and begged La Perousi among themselves. This ferocity of countenance, hon, ever, was much less perceptible in thu features of t!,: women. •+ When La Perouse went ashore, he had cntrnstcd Ni' Boutin with the command of tho Boussole, with full h J berty to eitablish what police he thought proper duriiiij his absence. On his return he found seven or eight Indija" on the qnarter.dcck, tho oldest of whom was preicnfd c ', him as a chief. M. Boutin declared, that ho could ml have prevented their coming on board by any other rncai, ! than firing upon them; that on comparing their boil strength with that of the French visitors, they laughed .' their threats, and made a mockery of their sentinels. II ■ added, that since tho chief had como among them, they a; pcared more orderly and docile. Having made severul pr; sents to tho chief, and shewir him many tokens of kiudnfc and attention ; ho wishud to inspire lilm with an exalta J opinion of their power, and ordered many expcrimenti c * the use of French weapons to be performed in his pn scnce. But tbeir effect M not mat«rially excite Jjis ci PERO»JSF,'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 65 permit hira to take the lead of tlie first party, Hiring him, that in three hours he would rc- rn on board with all the boats full of water. ntcrtaining the highest opinion of M. de ingle's sound judgment and capacity. La Pe- .use was induced to assent to the measure pro- osed, and promised M. de Langlc to stand oif id on all night, and that in the morning he ould dispatch two long-boats and two barges, med as he thought proper, which should be 'oily under his command. Thinking it full le to get under way, they found, on heaving the anchor, one strand of the cable cut by Je coral, and in two hours more the whole cable |j)uld be cut through. Not getting under sail ll four in the afternoon, they postponed their sparture till the next day. At eleven o'clopk the following morning. La erouse was about a league distant from the ^and, when he dispatched his long-bnat and itge, commanded by Boutin and Monton, on Sard the Astrolabe, to receive M. de Laugle's fders: those who had any symptoms of the scurvy ere taken into them, with six armed soldiers, Id the master at arms at their head. The two iats contained twenty-eight men, witli twenty ipty casks 'in order to be filled at the wafcring- lace. Lamanon and Colinet. though indisposed ere amon^ those who set off* from the Bous- kle. M. de Langle also set otf in his barge, pith M . Vaujuas. a convalescent. La, Gobicn, midshipman, comnranded the long-boat, and la Martiniere, Lavaux, and father Beeceveur, |rmed a part of the thirty-three persons sent by Astrolabe. Among these sixty-one indivi- kals, were the choicest men of both crews. |. de Langle's people were armed with muskets ^d cutlasses, and he ordered six swivels to bQ |ounted upon the long-boats. Though La Perouse, from the appearance of |ingsatthis tio^e, had no great apprehensions danger, he was averse to sending bouts on lore without the greatest necessity, especially long an immense number of people, unsup- ^rted and unperceived by the ships. The boats It off from the Astrolabe at half past twelve, ' Among them was a coiuMorablo number of women, 1 very young girli., who offoret ilj. Quit the Tslaniii of Maounh — Tlie Island tf Oyolava descrihcd-^Jitake the Isiana qf PoH/n— JVl'W Details reHpccling the J\I(mncrs, CustomSf^c. — Fall in -wUh Cocoa-nut and Traitor Islands—- Departure from JSavigators Island— Route towards the Friendly Islands — Fal\ in icith that qf . Vacao, and several others — Inhabitants of p)ngalaboo—.yorfolk Island, Description qf— Arrival at Botany Say — Decembeh, 1787 — Jasuary, 1788. ON the 14th of Deceniber La Porouse stood tor the island of Oyolava, which, had been observed before they had arrived at 'ihei anchorage which proved so fatal. This island is sepa- rated froip that of Maouna, or' of the Massacre, Indians \. The long boat of the Boussole, commanded by M. de Boutin, wa» a:grannd near the Astrolabe, leaving between them a channel unoccupied by out fire mi- nutes. Those who preserved their lives by swimming to the two barges, received several wounds, but those who unhappily fell on the other .side were instantly dispatched >y the clubs of the remoreless Indians. The crews of the barges, who had killed many of th« isknders with their muskets, now began to mak*; moie room by throwing thf ir water-casks overboard. They hac" a)so nearly exhausted their ammunition, and their retreat was rendered difrii;ult, a number of wnunded persons laying stretched out upon the thwarts, and impeding the working of the oars. To tUe prudence of M. Vaiijuas, andthedis- cipline kept up by M. Mouton, who commanded the Bou. ^ M, de Lqngtc, was the ^rsi' victim of tlte ferocity of these bnrbfirlans. teho had received nothing but favours at his hand. It i> imponnhlc to describe the consternation oc- casioned hjf, thisfqfal event on board tlw ticofrigtitcs. The t!»ath <^ J^I. de Lan^te^ uho enjoyed lliC cor{/itknce and by a wide 'channel, and vies with Otaheite in beauty, extent, fertility, and popiilation. At the distance of about three leagues from the north-east point, he was surrotmdcd by canoes, laden with bread-fruit, bananas, cocoa-nuts. sole's barge, the public are indebted for (he preservation of the forty-nine . persons of both crews who escaped, M. Boutin had received five wounds in the hea''- and one in the breast, and was kept above water by the cockswain uf the long-boat, who had himself received a severe wound. M. Colinet was disrovercd in a state of insensibility upon the grapnel ropo of the bar^e, with two wounds on the head, an arm fractured, aud a finger iiroken. M. I^vaux, surgeon of the Astrolabe, was obliged to suifer (he opera* tion of the trcpun. M. de Lamanon, and M. de Langle, were cruelly massacred, wilh Talio, mast(!r at arms of the Boussole, and nine oilier persons belonging to the two crews. M. Is Gobien, who commanded the Astrolubu's lung-boaly did not desert his post (ill he was left alone ; when, having exhausted his ammiinidun; he leaped into the channel, nnJ., notwithstanding his wounds, preserved himself on bunrd one of the bargi-s. A little ammunition was afterwards found, and completely exhaasted ou the in- furiated croud: and the boats at length extricated tixemsdvea from their lamentable situation. Cftecm of hi' ercto, teas matter of the deepest ix/er«t to every one. The general affliction tthich prevailed on bourd^ ii the best panegyric that can be pronounced en him. Narr. of iM. de Vinijuaf. ./j/.i ...:' sugar- PEROURE'* VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD 65 Bnjrar-canes, pigeons, and a few bogs. The in- habitants of this island restnible those of the island of Maouna, whose treachery had been s(» fatally experienced. Soni'j exchauges were con- ducted with these islanders with more tranquillity find honesty than at the island of Maouna, as the smallest acts of injustice received immediate chastisement *. , 'j'he presence of the women and children, who \vere among them, seemed to intimate that no hostile inteutions were entertained, but the na- vigators were sensible of the necessity of rel>ing no longer on appearancc | lightning, Jhunder, and rain. On the 17(h, he \ approached the island of P ili(M«f of a very iu^nt rilldgu, Rtipposing to fxci-eri in ina((iiitii(le any thing 8rriplion in anj i<-lai»d of the S.nuli Si"*, sitiiatrd on an inclined plain, and covorod wifh Iioiis.'s from thf lun'mit of thi- nioniiliiinb to lln' water sidix Tlio smoke appcari-d in clouds in Jlio inlcrinr of fhi- villn.'c, iH issuing from the midst of a large city ; whilo tlip sea was covcroil « ilh an iinmenbily of boats cnJcavouriiip to approncli thf frigates: several of these had nothing to sell, beini;. mere idle ga/.crd to enjoy the no»ol spectacio which the Frcnofc visitors had afforded them. + These islanders, are till, robust, find well made, and their general height from five foot nine, to flve feet eleven inches. The bodies of the men are painted or tatowed, whif* give fhoui the appearance of brin^ clad, though they are almost naked ! a girdle of Koa-weetls encircles their loins, descending to their Itnees, like the river Gods in Pagan M/tbulog/, TKeir hair, which is remarkably long, ii canoe came ofi" perhaps tiie natives had been in- timidated by hearing of the event which had taken place at Maouna. ' Pola is a smaller issland than that of Oyolava, but equally beautiful aud i? only separated from it by a chiinuel four leagues across. The natives of Maouna inlormcd our visitors, that the navigators islands arc ten in number, viz. Opoiin, the, most easterly; Lcoot", Fanfoue, Maouna, Qyolava, Caliuasse, Pola, Skika, Ossamo, aiid Ouera. These i.iliuuU form one of the finest archipelagoes of the South Sea, and are as interesting with rc-spect to arts, pro- ductions, and population, as the Society and Friendly Islands, which the English navigators have so satisfactorily described. In favour of their moral characters, little remains to be noticed: gratitude cannot find a residence in their ferocious ininds, nothing but fear can restrain them from outrageous and inhuman actions f . The huts of these islanders are elegantly formr ed; though they disdain the fabrications of iron, they finish their work with wonderful neatness, with tools formed of a species of basaltesin the form of an dividual ipiarrcls. + Well are these islands denominated the Kavigaton^ i'-i.inilx, for they pass not on foot from one villaiie to anoiNc-r, but perform all their visits and journies in cinocs: their villages arc situnti-d in creeks on the sca-sido, and no paths am seen to punotrato Into the interior of the country. The i^laads are covered to the very summit with fruit-trees, which are inhabited by pigeons, and 'urt!c>tloves of varijus Colours; beautiful [larr iquets, partrid^*^' aad a species of blackbird unite ia this acrFal society. fommo^ation h m ■it it'll • M I it" immmt^ HP— tietm — m 9S PEROUSE'i VOYAGE ROUND THE WORf.D. •I • comtncdation of five or six persons, though a few of them are sufficiently capacious to con- tain about fourteen. They are undeservedly celebrated, by some navigators for their swift- ness. These Indians are such expert swimmers, that they only consider their canoes as occasional resting places; from which, upon the least false motion, they are obliged to leap into the sea, and taking up their sinking vessels upon their shoulders, pour out the water. They fish with a hook and line, and sweep- net. Imagination cannot figure to itself more agree- able situations than those of their villages. All the houses arc built under fruit trees, which render them delightfully cool : they are seated on the borders of streams, leading down from the mountains. Though the principal object in their architecture is to protect them from of- fensive heat, the islanders never abandon the idea of elegance. Their houses are sufficiently spacious to accommodate several fHmili":s; and they are furnished with blinds, which a?e drawn lip to the windward to prevent the intrusion of the potent rays of the sun. The natives repose upon fine comfortable mats, which are cautiously preserved from all humidity. Nothing can be said, by our travellers, of the religious rites of these natives, as no raorai was perceived belong- ing to them *. These islands are fertile, ■ nd their popuUtlon IS supposed to be considerable. Opun, Leone, and Fanfouc, are small ; but Maoune, Oycjava, and Pola, may be classed among the largest and most beautiful in the South 8o!t. Cocoa. Island is lofty, and formed like a sugar loaf; it is nearly a mile in diameter, cdvered with trees, and is separated from Traitors island by a channel about a league wide. At eight in the morning -<* The inhabitants of (huse islands \,ivo an ample supply of liogs, dogs, fibli, fuwli, and birdti : cucua-iint, ^uavu and banana trees uro numerous : anotlicr tree, bciiring a largu fruit tliat h generally catuii roa^:te(l, and much ru. Kemblcs that of achesnut, is frequent in this cluster, Sugiu-. canes gro\r 8|)ontanconsly on the banks of the rivcrij, but tJiey arc not du>mcd excellent. Though danger wa« to bu iipp»cheiided from making aa oxcurBion into the interior of tliu island, IX; la M.'.,>iniere aiid Coiignon, yielded to the impusu of zeal, ratlier than to that of prudence: and, when the landing proved ko fatal to many of their countrymen, advanced Boniedistanre upon land to make botanical (ItscoverieH, The Indians evurted a giagg bead for every plant tiikcii from tlie grouud by M. do La Pcrousc brought to the west-south-west at two miles from a sandy bay iii the western part of the Great Island of Traitors, where he ex- pected to find an anchorage shehered from easterly winds. About twenty canoes instantly quitted the shore, and approached the frigates in order to make exchanges: several of them were loaded with excellent cocoa-nuts, with a few yams and bananas : one of them brought a hog, and three or four fowls. It evidently ftp. peared that these Indians had before some kn<)wl rves, that, ''of all the known preservatives again«e that lisease, melanses and gpruco beer are, in my opinion, the most elhcacious. Our ship's companies continued ts out Ills armi. We have not )t that he baa ty : we cannot ! still plough- ideed much to r and bis com- i^n upon some ity of unknown jmities of the limate, against igainst nature, on of concerii- is so imperfect le idea of his know the route >rm, and as he truck on occa- inay, at some uearlj in what double Point So. 5lf to their viow,— kjr, the colours auJ ! t. ' A VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF ]LA PEROUS.E, ' i UNDERTAKF'*! BY ORDER OF THE CONSTITUENT ASSEMBLY OF FRANCE, „ ... AND PERFOUJIED ' ; '^;; in the years, i;?!. 1792, and 1793, IN THE RECHERCHE and ESPERANCE, Ships of War; UNDEll THE COMMAND OP -. >•,,.-•-■ .. . . i . \ ,- ^ .... RE^R'^IBMIRAE, MRi/JVI JD'EJVTREV^STE^UX, FROM THE FRENCH OF Ji. LABILLADDIEIV % 1" Correspondent of the ci-divant Academy of Sckuces, andO. ., of the J^aturalists enyiaged in the Expedi ion. THREE years having elapsed, and no tidings having been received of the Boussole and Astrolabe, tlie two ships under the command of La I Perouse, the Society of Natural History of Paris, [early in the year 1791, awakened the attention of |tJ\eConstituent Assemblyrespectingthe fate of that ■navigator, and his companions in misfortune* The hope of finding, at least, some wreck of [an expedition, undertaken for the advancement I of the sciences, induced the assiembly to send 'two other ships in the track which the naviga- tors were to have followed, after their departure ! from Botany Bay. Some of them might possibly have escaped shipwreck, and be sequestered in a desert island, or thrown on coasts inhabited by savages; perhaps they were yet living in those Idistant climes, and continually directing their leyes towards the sea, hoping their country would |at some future period, send them that assistance Aikh they bad reason to expect. /; *-Vcree to the following effect passed the latiojjal Assembly on tl>e 9th of February, 11791. That the king be requested to give orders Chat ali ambassadors, consuls, &c. of the courts )f the different powers, that they do, in the lame of humanity, and of the arts and sciences, engage the respective sovereigns at whose courts Ihc reside, to charge all navigators and agents whatsoever, who are subject to their control, in whatsoever part of the globe they may be, to make every enquiry in their power, after the French frigates the Boussole and Astrolabe, under the command of M. de La Perouse, as well as after their crew*; ; and endeavour to obtain every infortiiation that may ascertain their existence or their shipwreck ; to the end that, in case M. de La Perouse should be found or heard of, all possible assistance may be rendered them ; the National Assembly engaging to indemnify and reward whoever shall atlbrd assistance to these navigators. That the king be r« guested to direct that one or more ships, on board uf which may be embarked some men of science, natu* ralists, and draughtsmen ; and Chat the com- manders employed in the expetlition, be charged with the double mission of searching after M. de la Perouse, agreeable to the documents, in- structions, and orders that may be given them, and, at the same time, independently of the search a^ter M. de la Perouse, or even after having met with hitu, or promred intelligence of him, to render this expedition useful to na\i- gation, to commerce, and to the arts and science!^ (Signed) DuPouT, President.' Loire, ) .. , • W jBotSKSON. ) Admiral !i * ' i i! iJ' i fd VOYAGE IN^ SEARCH OF LA PEEOUSP:. Admiral D'Entrccastcaiix being appointed f October, the ley afterwards j-ciist to north perance made tit eiiflit in the icd (lic.msclvts imcters from i behold to tli(! ;ariiiij; its head jach of night, t\> () myriamc- Iie island. In n on the loth 11 ten fathoms "rench consnl, H'ercd his ser- ig such neces- ships. , uls. Pinkcrion't Going on shore in the afternoon, M. Labil- lardiere, our naturalirt, remarked among the plants growing in the environs of Santa Cruz, a woody mclissa, known under the name of vicUssa fruticom, the saccharum Tcneriffi, &c. The beautiful tree, called the fair poinciana, constituted the ornament of some of the gar- dens *• On the 14th at sun-rise, reciprocal salutes were given anrt received by the vesaels and the forts. . „ Our adventurers having formed the project of undertaking, the next day, a journey to the Peak, and of visiting successively the high mountains of the island, the French consul gave them a letter of recommendation for M, de Cologant, an opulent merchant residing at Orotava. Early in the morning of the 15th, a party con- sisting of eight; namely Develle, one of the oiiicers of the admiral's ship, Pirou, Deschamps, Lahave, three servants, and myself repaired to the Mole. One of the seivants was sufficiently acquainted with the Spanish language to under- take the task of their interpreter. On the land- ing place, they saw some of the mules which had been provided for their conveyance ; but upwards of an hour elapsed, before their guides thought themselves sufficiently equipped for the journey. M. de Cologant, apprised Dy the French consul of the object of their journey, invited him to stop at his house at the harbour of Orotava. This town is three rayriaraeters and a half from Santa Cruz, and is one of the best places to halt at in going to the Peak, * This CTening Citiien Ely, astonished at the strange garb of some womun who were inhabitants of the town, took the liberty of taking a sketch of them. A sentry obsorting him thus employed, interrupted him, supposing \e might be taking a plan of the road. Id rain he shewed him that he was only copying an absurd dress; the soldier would not permit him to complete his delineation. i The inhabitant! of this ibiand imbibe strong religions i prejudices from their infancy. Children came out of their houses to know if our aiWertturers were of their religion. These unfortunate beings, whose fanuticisra and mooastic intolcrauce are so predominant over every other considcra. I tion, were only entitled to tlicir pity. On approaching the I harbour of Orotava, they desccuikd by gentle declivities : lit was no longer the barren mountains uf the environs of [Kanta Cruz, whose succulent plants announce steri'ity ; but charmini^hinurks, covered with vines forming the princi- I pal wealth of the island. It was five iu the afternoon when Vot.II. No.LXX. situated at the foot of the mountain nearest to it. They were three hours in travelling to La- gouna, a town about a niyriameter from Santa Cruz, ascending a very fatiguing hill. The houses are ill built, and thinly inhabited. The convents are very numerous, and the monks are supposed to constitute about half of the popu- lation. In their way to Lagouna, they crossed the arid mountain, where they saw a few suc- culent plants; among which they remarked the Canary leafless eiiplwrbiu, and the species of Indian fig to which botanists have given the name of cactus opuntia. These vegetables, which principally live at the expence of the atmo- sphere, thrive extremely well on the sterility of those deep declivities. All the stones they had hitherto met with had undergone the action of fire : in the midst of these volcanic fragments, our adventurers ex- perienced great heat ; and their guides were more inctunmoded by it than themselves f. As it does not produce a sufficient quantity of corn for the consumption of the inhabitants, part of the produce of the wines, which are sold in foreign countries for Madeira, is employed in the purchase of that article of the first necessity. The olive-tree, which thrives well here, is how- ever little propagated. The papaw-tree, and the date-tree, are cidtivated in some of the gardens, as objects of curiosity. They set out early the next morning on their journey towards the Peak. But it was a festival, and none of the guides would stir without having first been at mass; some of them had beard three; Go in; they arrived at Orotava, where they were rrspectfully re- ceived by M. de Cologant. Two ships were then lying ia the road, for the purpose of taking in a ca«go of wine. The I a nil ing- pi ace is even more inconvenient than that of Santa Cru?, : and the roadstead is less frequented. The cellar of M. do Cologani naturally excited their curiosity. Among the different qualities of wines which this island produces, and which this wealthy merchant deals ii', there are two distinct sorts ; the dry wine, and (hat A iiich is denotniuated malmsey: In the making of the Utter, great care is taken to concentrate strongly the siccharine part of the grape. A pipe of the best was then sol J i.ir one hundred and twenty piastres; a pipe of the nios. in- ferior quality, produced liot h»lf that »ura. When the fer. mentation of these wiues is well adrnnced, it is usual to mix brandy with them to make tticin keep. This island u said to furuiiih thirty thou^aad pipes of wine auauuUy. 00 i ! !! ::!' i !■ £i I- •tii VOYAGF, IN SF.ARCir OF LA PF.ROUSP:. on (heir remonstrating about tliis waste of time, tliey were informed that they ought to deem ii ■A very particular favour for them to think of travelling on so solemn a day. They were, how- ever, ready to depart about nine in the morning;. Soon after they had quitted the town, they as- rended by steep irre2:ular roads, whence they j)erceived enormous heaps of mountains pih)d one upon another, rising in the form of an am- pitheatre, as far as the base of the peak. The guides were surprised at seeing some of the party perform the journey on foot, as they were acting very differently from most of the travellers who ramc to visit the peak. For a long time they entreated the party to mount the mules, which liad been brought for their accommodation. Having crossed some beautiful plantations of vines, they found themselves in the midst of chesnut-trecs, which grow in the most elevated regions. in the cavities they met with the Virginian polipodium, and several new species of laurel, among which was that known by the name of Indian laurel. About noon they reached the clouds that dif- fused a heavy dew on the shrubs, through which ihey had to pass. The abundance of rain, with which the disposition of the air is impregnated T)n these heights, might be expected to produce a number of springs ; they were, however, ex- tremely scarce*. After passing through these heavy mists, they enjoyed the finest sight which imagination can pourtray. The clouds that had been accumulated beneath them, mingled them- selves in ihe distance with ihe waters of the sea, concealing from them the view of the island. They beheld the clearest sky; the peak appearing like an island, the base: of which appeared to be immerged in an immeriise ocean. Hardly had he got otit of the clouds, when our admiral saw for a moment a phenomenon which he had several times seen on the high «iountains of Kefrouan, in Asia Minor. With additional surprise, he perceived all the colcurs of his body traced in the beautiful colours of the rainbow, on some cluuds that were below him, on the side opposite to the sun. They passed over prodigious heaps of pumice- itone, among which they remarked some languid * When high momitaini, are etrongly heated by the rays of the sun, (hey brcomi' a kind of fucuB, abovo which rises the £urrouuding itir; whcoce results the abundance of vegetables. Brooms were the only shrubs that prospered at such an elevation. In walkii^ over tliese volcanic fragments, they sunk into them half way i.p the leg. Some blocks of piizzolana were here spread at a considerable dis- tance from each other. At nine in the evening, they took up their quarters for the night ia the midst of the lava, some large fragments of which were their only shelter against a strong easterly wind then blowing pretty strong. The cold was very intense at this height, and nature, not consulting the wants of travellers, was very sparing of her wood : all the firing they could possibly enforce, was insufficient to procure a comfortable night. At length the day began to appear, when our party left some of their guides in the place where they had passed the night, and pursued the road to the peak, the summit of which they were speedily to reach. They walked for an hour over heaps of fragments and greyish lava ; among which ihey saw scattered blocks of pox- zolana, and large masses of compact glass, re- sembling black bloitle glass. The cavern, on the brinks of which they arrived, is called La gueva ckl ama. It is a meter and a half wide at its mouth : as its depth exceeds two meters, in an almost perpendicular direction, they could descend to it only by means of a rope. They found some water, the surface of which, as they naturally expected at this elevation, was cover- ed with ice about half a decimeter in thickness. It was immediately broken, and they quenched their thirst with very good water. They did not experience any unpleasant sensations in the throat, as has been remarked in the French Alps, when water has been drank from the foot of the Gliiciers. Piron had been indisposed for several days, and found himself too much fatigued to think of proceeding farther. Deschamps did not ehooso to proceed beyond the cavern ; the othei nicniben of the party continued to ascend towards the summit of the peak. Having arrived at its base, which forms the cap of the highest mountains, they saw it rise in the form of a cone to a sur- prizing elevation. Their prospect now soared above all the mountains, which constituted so many flights of steps, which they hud been the more distant air. Thi> is perhaps, the solo cauiic u[ thu apparent aUructiou of ilie clouds by mountains, obliged. ol Tl i\u wl fici »iei tioi hen at 8 dig wii( odo T met of tl whii at a elon^ edgci incap itself more our c their neigh th( returr had Hi they a the p ^ the sif J had tl their to stiJ t'-cblcl .^ibiit, a| |shruhsl |iiio(!(»(|| itill da\ fund til I ■^'^^ '!n *Thf ';fi'ii: of Ai'; M'ci) ^Wil the :\ ■Jill' .Mlln, nil's call III ( ryj if i)iii,('| |»(' till' v| irlh. VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF LA PEROUSI', 73 irubs tliat 1 wiilking gunk into blocks of arable dis- ift evening, ght in tbe ^menti of it a strong ong. The md nature, ., was very they could procure a when our 1 the place md pursued which they Iked for an reyish lava ; cksr of poz- ct glass, re- cavern, on ,8 called La a half wide i two meters, I, they could tope. They jiich, as they was cover- in thickness. ey quenched Ihcy did not in the throat, Alps, when foot of the several days, d to think of il not choo«« thei menibeis towards the ed at its baso, !st mountains, cone to a sui- now soared lonslitutcd so ey had been tlio solo caujc of lountaius. tjbligeJ J obliged (6 ascend to arrive at this elevated spot. This place, called La Ramhlettc, presented to llieir curiosity a few apertures in the rock; whence issued a watery vapour, without smell. They now arrived at the place the most dif- ficult to climb up, for the peak is extremely steep. Having reached about a third of its eleva- tion, though the surface of the ground was not hented, beyond what is commonly experienced at such a height, Lahillardiere was induced to dig a hole, about a double decimeter in depth, wiiencc inimediaiely issued, a watery and in- odorous smell. The spartium siipranulliam was the last shrub met with, before our botanist arrived at the foot of the cone; but there is an herbaceous plant, which, with great apparent delicacy, vegetates at a still greater elevation. This is a violet, with elongated leaves, and slightly toothed at the edges. The vapours of the atmosphere, being incapable of rising to this height, the sky displays itself in all its brightness, shuiing with an azure more brilliant than in the most refulgent days in our climates. A fojv clouds, scattered far below their feet, did not conceal the prospect of the .neighbouring islands*. I The declivity of the mountain favouring their return, they descended much quicker than they had ascended. The day was far advanced when they arrived at the spot where they had passed [the preceding night. The total privation of I the sun, which they had almost experienced. I had cancelled every wish of making it again Nhcir resting place. Their guides not choosing Ito stir before the rise of the moon, by her ] feeble light descended over the pumice-stones; Ibut, after walking about for four hours, the jshrubs, which were very numerous, so incom- InuuI'd them, that they found it necessary to halt till day-light. They were not destitute of wood, ind therefore cauitcd a comfortable Bre to be * Tb.p summit is terminated by .i brow, the greatest cleva. kjni; of which iii towarils thu north. west. Closo toils point >rt! M'fn sevcriil aperturi's, whtunco issues a. very hot vapour. ill tlie advaniril season of the year, when die snow whitens the suiitiDtt of the peak, that which comet near thesu aper. |ures cannot long withstand such a degrco of heat, lieau. Jfui crystals of Milphur, of various forms, adorn the brinks if thi se r.mnel-. Tho deeomposition of the sulphur, and ^f tiio volcanic produelions, produces hero an allnminong ill, like very tino needles, which covers the burfaco of the iftb. « kindled. While they were warming themselves, the conversation naturally turned upon what was next to be done. Many of the party, fatigued by this laborious exertion, expressed a desire to proceed to Santa Cruz by the shortest road ; but, after stating a diversity of opinions, it was at length agreed that the "laturalist and the gar- dener should persevere in their researches, and all the others might return on board. Their guides wished earnestly to be taken among the latter; which was admitted, after one of them had been prevailed on to accompany the exploring party. Among the plants which bedecked the declivity of the rocks, the beautiful campamila, with gold-coloured flowers presented itself. Water being very scarce on these heights, the adventurers directed their steps towards a small dwelling, near which they supposed some rivulet might flow. There they fortunately discovered a delicious limpid spring, which lost itself in the bosom of the earth, after having appeared an instant on its surface. A|)p!e-trees, laden with fruit, adorned and enriched the gardens of these peaceable inhabitants. At the approach of night, they were far from atiy habitation: near the hour of nine in the evening, they arrived at a village, the inhabitants of which were not signalized by their hospitality ; it was with much difliculty that they could obtain the indulgence of shelter. As they were unacquainted with the Spanish lan- guage, they could only express their wants by. signs. Passing from door to door, hoping ta procure a place to sleep ip, they began to be hopeless of success, when, knocking at a friendlj door, the two worthy occupiers kindly aflbrded them an asylum f . The next day Lahillardiere, the naturalist^ went on board, fraught with volcanic produc-' tions, and some curious plants. The birda called Canaries are numerous in the lower re-. gions of these mountains; their plumage is a + A frugal repast was intantly set before them, illiiml. iiated Milh Alpine torches, manufactured of resinous fur stuck in the wall, allorcling nn equal qu.intity of light and smoke, tho worthy hosts were assiduously employed, in furnishing successive bits of wood, as fast as they wero consumed. Preferring rest to food, sleep was received with welcome, and was rendered the nioro delightful fcv their being no longer disturbjd by the severity of the frigid motintaius. uiixture 7* VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF LA PEROUSF. I -J ' 'il mixture of bronvn, and several other colours^ but they are less beautiful than those in a domestic state *. Citizen Riche and Blavier undertook a jour- ney to the peak^ but they found themselves in- capable of ascending to the summit ; at a con- siderable distance from it^ tliey found their lungs could not endure so rarefied an atmosphere ; a spitting of blood compelled them to renounce their enterprizfe. The country, in the environs of Santa Cruz, is in general very steril, and the population of the town is thin, though its roadstead is the most frequented of the island. The governor- general of the Canaries make* Santa Cruz his usual residence. There are several convents for men and women; also a parish church, with a profu- sion of false taste in the gilding, and ornamented with a very indifferent choice of pictures. The square contains a handsome fountain, to Itvhich water was conveyed from a considerable distance across the mountains, by wooden pipes. The streets are ill paved, and most of the win- dows are destitute of glass : though the latter are closed with Venetian blinds, the women fre- quently draw them up, when urged by curiosity, or some other motive, to let themselves be seen. The women of the superior class are dressed in tl»e French taste; the others cover their shoulders with a sort of coarse woollen cloak, ivhich seems a very improper cloathtng under a irarm sky: a broad-brimmed felt hat shelters them from the rays of the sun; their skin is rallied by a 'mixture with the natives of the * A fresh breeze having increased the sea, it threw upon the beach the boat belonging to the Espcrance, by which accident a sailor received so much injury, that he apparently seemed dead ; but, by employing the means usually recur. red to on those occasioos, he was restored to life. The ».Tlt.'--if . . - •■ t>-. ,.;. \ ■ :!'.?. , '; «. *t r.' M,. . ■ V. ; ., ' •-.I" ••' it. -t > - -v. .. " ' ,■ '* ■ ' ' '' '•1 - . ■■ .' ■ '(•' .-' - 'ufM-'ovi island ; and their features in general, are not very alluring'. The multiplicity, of religious customs among them, did not binder them from making overtures to many of the sailors ; several of whom had too much reason to remember the seducive influence of their charms. Water, which is very good at Santa Cruz, is easily procured when the swell is not too heavy. This is indeed an excellent refreshing-place, as all the vegetables of Europe are easily obtained here, with the exception of cabbage*, which are very small, though very dear. All the fruits of Europe may also be purchased here. No volcanic eruption had happened on the island of Teneriffe for ninety-two years, till such an event occurred in June, 1798, a new volcano breaking out on the south-west side of the peak. The following account is g:iven of it by Citizen Le Gros, Consul of the French Republic. — "On the 21st Prairal, Gib year, (June 9th, 1798,) the inhabitants of Santa Cruz heard some hollow and repeated noises, which re- sembled the report of cannon tired at a great distance; in the night there was a slight etrrth- quake; and it was known the next day that a volcano had broken out on the south-west side of the peak. At the beginning of the eruption they reckoned fifteen craters; these were soon reduced to twelve, and at the end of a month there waste be seen only two, whence continually issued large rocks, which vomitted forth with the lava, and followed their projectile motion, fre- quently for fifteen seconds, before they again fell to the ground. people of the garrison, however, were so earnest in re. aoimating the poor fellow, that they forgot to return the '19 clothes which they had takuii from him, under the pretence of hanging them up to dry. ;t •-', :''■■ • ^.» SECTIOxN « usimll^ fiiidina voracii his at( fishes, icciirei In tl ; of dul I more timrs I vt'Jorit I thi' ni> I liimino i flgitaftv I incroa.'i CJti VOYAGE IN SEARril OF LA PEROUSK. 1M i), are not f religious them from >rs ; several aember the ta Cruz, is too heavy, ig-place, as ily obtained ,gc», which .11 the fruits re, ned on the irs, till such new volcano )f the peak. it by Citizen Republic. — (June 9th, Cruz heard which re- ] at a great slight earth- t day that a ith-west side the eruption e were soon of a month e continually orth with the motion, fre- jey again fell ) earnest In re ot to return tlic dcr the prj^tcnce SECTION II. Leave Teneri/Te to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope — Observatlotis — Shining Phenomenon in the i'^fl ^,1 Experiment — Four of the Teneryfe Sheep ihroivn overboard, and the Cause— Faint Degree of Heat close to the Line — Method of sweeliuiiig fresh Wafer, lohai hi<.>;iiiiiirig to piiirifj/ ^4 thick Fog occasions an Fievalion of tlie JMercury in the Jiuroiuetcr — ,1 lunar Jiainhoxo — Arrival at tlie Cape of Good Hope— Continue at the Cape of Good Hope — Deposit ions of the Two French Captains, tliat some jYatives of tite Admirallfi Islands appeared dressed in the Uniform of the French JSavt/ — Captain Bligh sent from England to procure the Jiread-frnil Tree at (he Society Islands — Fiolence of the South-east Winds — A Slave Ship — Various Excursions to the Mountains in the Viciniti) of the Toxen — Impudence of the Fiscal, SECTION BEING retarded iu shipping their supplies, the adventurers were not rciuly to sail till l!>c 23d of October. They crossed the tropic ^"^ Cancer about one o'clock in Hie afjernoon, in the longitude of 20" west. The first fish that came and bit at the hook- of one of the fisher- men, was a very fine dolphin. Nothing more was necessary to set the whole ship's company in motion; but the fisherman, hauling with too nuich impetuosity, had the mortification to find only a part of the jaw on the end of his hook. A common swallow, lately arrived from Europe, followed them for some time, without venturing to alight on their ship : it soon directed its course towards the coast of Africa, where it was certain of finding the insects on which its subsists. Little wind being then experienced, consider- able numbers were seen, on the surface of the water, of the medusa, known to naturalists by the name of medusa caravella. This species should be handled with caution : for, like many other Bca-nettles, it occasions blisters, preceded by a painful pricking *. T'^cy had the mortification to find, that the * A fish, known by the name of remora, or Biick.fish, usually follow the shark, to wliich it attaches itself, from fiiuling tho means of subsisionce in the excrements of that voracious animal. It is not, however, ^vholly occupied in his attendance on the shark ; for it follows other large fishes, and even ships ; to the bottom of which ho adheres securely, when tired of swimming. In the course of the night, they fell in with an asiembi'ye of dolphins, which followed their vessel : as they made a i more rapid progrecf th:m our adventurers, they sev-rsi I times took a ciro it vuiiit!^ the ship, swimming with great ivt'locity. It was ctsy to p'irsuc them with the eye, though I the night w.ig extmrtly f the water, m in the air : ppcr part of the il seamen, thaf, is all advantii^f ostwaril than is )ot(Ies of water, phorescrnce, to 10 the cause of n a Rlass, was saw some luini. had roinarlii'd uf rsperimeiits, ic most urdiirary : but they alum; a luminous ; se- ucules, kc. often illOminato thctr during during a conflict of this kind, some of the con- tending parties leaped int^ the ship *. On the 17th of December they passed the tropic of Capric(-rn, in the longitude of 28^ west. On board the Es^erance, upwards of a hundred bonitoes were taken daily; whilst 9II the most expert fishermen in the Recherche, pever caught more than ten ii> a day, and gene- rally a miich smaller number, (in the 3d of January 1793, our adventurers enjoyed the sight of a rainbow, produced by the rays of the moon : this planet was, about ten at night, surrounded by two concentric circles ; they exhibited all the colours of the rainbow, in an order opposed to each oilier. As this phenomenon, produced by the decomposi- tion of the light of the moon, appeared between her and them, the colours of the iris must con- sequently present themselves in the reverse order of those which the sub display. On the 9th of January, the crews of both the ships began the exercise of firing with ball. A prize of small value was the stipulated re- ward of those who hit the mark, which was fixed at the end of one of the fore-top mast i studding sail booms : it was not a matter of in- difl'erence, on such an expedition, in which they might sometimes find it necessary to defend themselves against the savages, that each should [learn how to use Uie arms that were on board. The captain of the Esperancc, having made last to a buoy half a very fine tunny, which he i intended for the admiral, the line M'as too far I for them to reach it : a sailor,, however, jumped overboard to swim after it, though a shark had been caught that very morning, on board the Esperam'e ,^ and the little wind which ihcn blew must have increased the apprehension ul' meeting [with another. The well-known ^ea-ncttle, named iiicdusa ^elella, took advantage of the culms to ;\ppear ind float, in great numbers, on the siirlace of the sea. This species diflercd, in no respect, I " r *Tlie south-east and south winds blew with so much obstinacy, that our adventurers were unable to cross the rquator till the 28th. Scanien are itccustomed to christen, ^ng in their mode, tlie persons who cross the Hue for the Brst time, by i, singular ceremony of ducking : hut the Admiral, fearing that every one would not equally relish khc farcical operation, prohibited the usual ceremony. + Some seals, of the species which Butlbn has dcnomi. iited pttil phoquc, approached their ilup, to leck their from what our botanist bad frequently met with in the Mediterranean. The albatrosses, of the Cape of Good Hope, which appeared in large numbers, announced to our adventurers the vicinity of the southern ex- tremity of Africa. They saw land on the 16th of January, about eight in the morning; being then at the distance of four myrianicters from Table Bay, The proximity of the land had also been signified to them, by a change in the colour of the wafers of the sea, occasioned by the elevated bottom on which they repose f . , Our adventurers had not' a sick man, on board, though the length of their passage had reduced them to a very slender allowance of water ; but they- had exerled themselves to coifipensate for" this pt-ivation by a liberal use of vHirious kinds of antiscorbutics ; a sort of punch, equally whosesome and pleasant, composed of brandy, vinegar, sugar, and water, had been daily served out to the ships' companies towards the conclu- sion of the passage. The ship had also been regularly fumigated twice a-day ; and strict in- junctions were given to the sailors to chanf'e their clothes, whenever they got wet. It was satisfactory, at length, to discover, that such salutary precautions bad not been employed in vain. Two ofiicers of health came from Cape Town to visit the ships, to satisfy themselves that no contagious disorders attended them: it is the small-pox that they principally dread ; for that malady, which is not endemical in this country, makes dreadful ravages here, and throughout all India, when introduced from abroad. A captain of a mercliant ship who arrived fVom Bourdeaux a few days before them, came also to inform them, that the Commander of the naval forces in the Isle of France, after having received information respecting the fate of La . Perouse, had dispatched a frigate to the Cape, to bring the particulars of it to the commander of the expedition, sent in search of that uq« subsistence in the great heaps of aea>weed which were seen floating on the surface of the4>ca; tbeU animals frequently fled, after haring raised themselres by sudden springs above the water; then, drawing their two hind feet together, ia the form of fins, they v;ere supported in the water; the gurfacr '>f which was to them what a vast plain it to an active quadruped. About seven in the evening they were a myriametcr and a half from the mountain t/T liout fiay. fortugatt T8 VOYAGE IN SEARCH OK LA PEROUSE. fortunate navigator, The frisate fiad sailed a few days before to proceed to the Isle of France. Admiral D'Entrecasteaux instantly sent an oHicer to the Governor of the Cape, in order to settle the salute. This officer received from the French Charge d'affaires, the dispatches vhich Citizen Saint Felix, commander of the Frenc^i naval forces in the Indian seas, had sent to Admiral D'Entrecasteaux by the Atlantic frigate. • Substance of a Letter from Saint Felix, Commander on the India Station, to Admiral D' Entrecasteux. Private letters inform me, that you do not niean to touch at the Isle of France, till you return from the important expedition you are on the point of under, taking. Deprived of the hope of seeing you, I hasten to transmit to you at !.he Cape of Good Hope, two accounts relative to the object of your mission, delivered to rac by the captains of two French ships that arrived from Batavia. You will there see by M'hat accident a Dutch ship, having on board Commodore Hunter, commander of the English frigate Syrius, as well as his crew, had seen, near the Admiralty Islands in the South Seas, men covered with European clothes, and particularly some clothes which he supposed to be French uniforms. You will also perceive that the Commodore had no doubt of their being the re. mains of the wreck of M. de la Perouse, whom he had seen at Botany Bay. Thinking the knowledge of these reports would be in. tcresting to you, and judging them sufficiently important to be communicated to you, I now send, a frigate to the Cape solely for that purpose. Captain Bolle, who com. Diands her, will, if he dues not ftnd y.)U there, leave any dispatch with the French Charge d\iff'uii as, that it may be delivered to yon on your arrival. Though no official ac. counts of your expedition authorize niu to send a frigate on this service, I am certain his Majesty will approve of the step wiiich I have taken in this respect. It was reserved for you to acquire claims to the gratitude of (he whole nation, by accepting the command of an expedition, which does equal liuoour to the sovereign who orders it, and tho officer by whom i^ is executed. VVhatcver route you may take, you w ill be followed by my wishes for your success, and by the inviolable and perfect attachment, with which I am, &c. Isle of France, Nov. D, 1791. Saint Femx. Account given to the Chief de Division Saint Felix, Com. mundcr on the Indian Slulion, bij Captain Preaiuiet, com. titunding the Ship Jason, arrived from Batavia. The Knglish frigate Syrius, commanded by Commodore Hunter, bound for New Holland, was lost in Norfolk Island, in the Suuth Sea, towards thecnd of 1790. The crew were taken up by the sloop of war which was following in her mission, and has returned to Botany Bay, where Commodore Phillip freighted a small Dutch vessel to convey to England the shipwrecked crew, with their cum. Biandor, commodore Hunter. Having left Botany Bay in this vessul, and wishing to touch at Batavia, Commodore Hunter was thwarted by tho viodt and currents, and carried to the eastward u far as Captain Bolle, who had almost instantlv sailed again to return to the Isle of France. The following is the letter addressed to \\\o. Admiral, with the depositions of the two Cap- tains of the merT-haht vessels, who were at Bii- tavia while Commodore Hunter continued there, on his return from Botany Bay in a Dukh ._. ship, after having been cast away on Norfolk I Island *". thr lOTth" of longitude from the meridian of Greenwich, Wishing to pass through St. George's Strait, he got siglit of the Admiralty Islands, situated in the I47th'' of lonj,i. ;| tudc from tho meridian of Greenwich, and in 3-' C)' souih ^% latitude. Near that lying most to the eastward, he saw several boats filled with men covered with European stuils. and pieces of doth; he could even distinguish the uniform M of the French navy. These people made signals w ith wlii;e : flags for the ship to approach. For this Coiiimodori'l Hunter had the strongest desire; but it was impossihio to 1 eft'ect it, on urcount t>»' the contrariety of the currents iiiid % winds, and the. diingur of iiuniujous shoals. 'm Commodore Hunter had soi-n La Perouso at Botany ^A)\'^ and was particularly intimate with him. He bAd learnt from j him that it was his intention, on leaving Botany Bay, t., :| pass through St. George's Strait, in order to get to Ou northward. He had no doubt that it was on these islanil,;>| that the Astrolabe and Boussolc were lust, in canscquenrc of the calms and violent currents which prevail in thut; quarter. He told me that ho himself was carried to tlioj eastward six hundred miles in ton days by the strength <)/ii| them, us was proved by repeated observations of the luui;'. j tudo, by timekeepers, and the sight of land. In a wuni, Coniniu'dure Hunter, who was at Batavia, and whom 1 sa^^ in the voyage I have recently made, appears to nic to I,; fully persuaded, that the European clothes, which In observed in the 'loats that came from the Admiralty Islands. are the remains of the sSipwreck of the vessels under thtj command of La Perouse. Commodore Hunter is now on his pa!^«aire to return loi England, whence France will probably .eci-'vc from hinil more circumstantial details ou this subject After what the English commander has experienced m% approaching the Admiralty Islands, he thinks, that a vu.s>cl-l wished to go thither, ought to take tho precaution to gti into their latitude in good time, in order to prevent hi.t] from being carried away by (he currents, which set to tli(i|| eastward with wonderful rapidity. Done at the Isle v| France, 0th of November, 1791. Signed Pueaubet. Captain of the Ship Jason* Account from Piere Magon Lepinaif, Captain of the Slut Marie Ilclcne, arrived from Batavia, to the Chef de l)i. VI. ion Saint Felix, Commamkr on the Indian Station, The commander and officers of the Enji^li k ^ frigate Syrius, after (hat vhip was wrecked on Nurto Island, were conveyed to Botany Bay, whence they saili!^ in a small Dutch vessel, which brougttt thum to Batav.n i the end of Septdobur in that yoar, after • passage of »agc «f '» 0,- As Commodore Hunter, returning from Bu- lavia, with his officers, to proceed to England, ■was at the Cape when our adventurers arrived there, they naturally expected to receive all i possible information respecting what had been seen at the Admiralty Islands. They were not, however, a little surprised to hear that the coin- niodore set sail for Table Bay, two hours after they had dropped anchor. He probably knew [the object of their mission, for they were ex- Ipectcd'at the Cape, and the admiral's flag- might 1 inform him that these ships were dispatched in [ search of La Perouse. It appeared extremely [ extraordinary that he was not anxious to com- municate to them that information which tlie I Captains Preaudet and Magon Lepinay had col- jlected from him and bis officers at Batavia. j Nothing really indicated that the details left at M''> Cape by Captain Bolle, came from Com- iniodore Hunter himself. Captain Bligh, commander of the Providence, inn English sloop of war, sent to procure the Ibread-A'uit tree from the Society Islands, an« ichored at Table Bay a short time after the de- Iparture of the Atlante. This gentleman had received no information from Hunter relative to Ihc depositions of the two French Captains, but lie assured Colonel Gordon that he should make inquiries in these seas, where it was asserted that La Perouse had been lost, and endeavour to save ■ome remains of his un(V)rtunate expedition. This was the second time of Captai.v Bligh 's iriRiting the Society Islands, in quest of the t>rcad-fruit tree ; for during the first voyage to i)rocure this valuable tree fur the English co- lonies in the West-Indies, he had been turned 9Ut of his ship, in con«iequcnce of a mutiny One or two days after having weathered St. George's !'liuunoI, early in tho morning they got sight of both tho Admiralty lulands, to which they were very near; they ^nd also sounded without findin;; bottom. They saw cunio out from the i-tlands two large canoes, Dn(aininf{ about a doxen men, who vould not como on nurd the vessel, though they approached pretty near her, t was then very moderate weather- The visscl had af;ainst ^r rather a strong current, which drove her oiftho island; sides, the Dutch captain was not very fond of going near e land. It was remarked, that two of the men who wore the canoes had saihos, similar to those worn by officers Kurope; they made signs as if they wished to bo shaved ; reral of them bad on their clothes pieces of red and blue th, whieh proved that they bad some communication Vol, II. No. LXX. , i)T9< iutn itviHiKyiiM it^ itg-^ breaking out on board, a mrrative of which he published on his return to England. Our adventurers were informed that the Pan- dora, commanded by Captain Edwards, had since been at the Society Islands, and took into custody fourteen of the mutineers. She lost four of them on running aground on the reefs of Norfolk Island. Christian*, the master of Captain Bligh's ship, and the ring-leader of the mutineers, had, accompanied with nine sailors, taken refuge in another island, having been joined by several of the natives. An of- ficer of the Pandora declared, at the Cape, that Bligh had behaved very improperly to Christian* and that an abuse of his authority drew on him his misfortunes. If this is a true representation, Bligh could not be sincere in asserting that he had always behaved to him with the greatest kindness. At sun-rise our adventurers saluted the citadel with thirteen guns; this salute was instantly re- turned with an equal number. The commodore of the expedition went on shore at nine o'clock; on which occasion a salute with thirteen guns was given and received. The governor had sent a band of musicians, to wait for Admiral D' Eiitrecasteaux, at the landing- piace, whence, accompanied by martial sounds, he repaired to the government mansion, attended by some officers. lie was received by the council, in full assembly, who expeditiously returned the visit at the house of the French Charge d'Af' f aires, where he had alighted. Table mountain was now enveloped in thick clouds, which covered its summit; and though they appeared stationary on the summit of that mountain, even when the wind blew with 'vith Eurojieans. As Captain Hunter, commander of the Syrius, hu(i, btfurc his departure from Botany Bay, learned from La Pt-rouse himself, that his plan was to pass through St. Cieorge's channel, the officers of that frigate are all persuaded, that he had unexpectedly fallen in with these islands, and been there lost, I, the underwritten, do certify, that this account is conformable tu nliat I have gathered from dificrcnt con« versations with the ollicors of I; "yrius frigate, who, after that frigate was wrecked, arrived at Jktavia, in a small Dutch vessel that was there In the month of October. (Signed) Macon I^epinav. Isle ^ France, October 3\ii, 1791. * 'This is clearly a mistake ; Christian was only master's mate. X violence^, II n 1 i I r- !!:ii 80 VOYAGE IN SEARCH OV LA PFRO USE. ■violence, tliey were incessantly shiftinjr: the im- pulse, liowcTer, wliich they received on quitting that heig-ht, rendered thorn so dissoluble (hat they dispersed in llic air. Soon after, the south- east wind began to conic down from the heights of this mountain towards Cape Town with such impetuosity, that it was almost impossible to iralk against the blast; for it drove before it, to the height of a man, small stones upwards of a centimeter in thickncus, with such extreme violence, that the people were obliged to repair for shelter to their houses. The Biscayan * of the Esperance, which the force of the wind had broke adrift during the night, from the stern of the ship, was lost; to replace which, a whale-boat was purchased from an American vessel. Though the south-east wind continued to blow with impetuosity, our commander went into the environs of the town. The pVetty shrnb, known to naturalists by the name ofbrunia paleacea, adorned the first hills by which the ascent commences. It will readily be believed, that with such a wind, as they had e:^perienced, the insects had entirely disappeared! Labillardiere visited the Company's garden, which had been spoken of with rapture by many travellers: it is, however, nothing more than a vast enclosure, where some avenues of tolerably fine oaks are to be seen. Some of the beds are encompassed with myrtles, in the midst of which are cultivated different sorts of vegetables, and a few exotic flowers. There have been some European fruit-trees planted here. A plantain- tree was also introduced here; but its leaves were unable to resist the violence of the wind, which had cut (hem into shredsf . A slave-ship had lately arrived here from Mo- zambique, from which its cargo, consisting of four hundred negroes, were landed. It was a mclanrholy sight to behold most of these mise- rable creatures greatly afllicted with the scurvy, after a very short passage, crowded together in threesmall apartments, whence they were to becon- veyed on board, to go and support, by the sweat of their brow, the luxury of some rich West-Indian. ♦ A Biscayan is a long narrow hoat, slia.o'at each end, calculated forgoing (hrough a swell. It acqiiirod this a|)> pcllalion from the province of Biscay, on tho coast of which it is much used, and is there usually called harca longa. t The manageric, at the end of the garden, contains a small number of scarce animals : the ostrich, the zebra, (he porcupine, and ii few birds. % On the 22d, our naturalist visited Lion Moun- tain. This eminence, which acquired its name from the tigure which it exhibits at the distance of a few myriamcters at sea, affords a soil little favourable to- vegetation. On the follow- ing day he visited the Devil's Mountain. The impetuous south-east winds, the force of which is greater at the declivity of this mountain than any where else, has justly entitled it to that ap- pellation. The delightful valley, which uepa- rates it from Lion Mountain, is decorated with the beautiful species of p'otea, with silvery leaves: these leaves are covered with a down, which are the thicker as they are exposed to the action of the air. The same observation applies to most of the plants buffeted by the wind.i; whence it seems apparent that this down secure.) them from the injury they might thence receive. The sterility of Lion Mountain had no ap- pearance here; vegetable productions presented themselves in great abundance. The tulip of the Cape embellished the gradual slopes, and a great variety of species of ci'icee issued from the rocks. Being required to pass muck of his time, in the preservation of the plants he had collected the day before, he could not under- take a long excursion on the 24th ; he therefore amused himself in strolling about the environs of the town. The bastard aloe, known under the denomination of agave vivipara, was still in flower. He admired the lightness with which ' the titmouse called the saccharine juice exudin^^ . from the glands at the bottom of the corollas, j.'; It was not witiiotit regret that he killed some of these charming birds (hat he might preserve their skins. He employed (he 'i."Jth in visiting Table Moimtain, no natned from the horizontal plane, which its summit presents when beheld at a dis- tance. Having reached the middle of the moun- tain, he found the thesium strirluin. He clam- ,< bered up acclivities formed of a very hard frer- ?« stone, above which were blocks of quartz of a beautiful white ;|;. Having reached the top of Tahle Mountaii , Ihiv :|; Firc-wood is very icarce pA the Cape of Good Hope. The mildness of the climate, indeed, requires no artificial heat to protect the inhabitants against tho inclemency oiv the weather ; but (ire is necessary for dressing their aliments. Slaves are dispatched to procnre what little wood thry ha| occasion for at a considerable distance beyond Table Muiui. ' taia. Our adreuturers met several negroes, carry ini; branchiM VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF LA PEROUSE. 81 Lion Moil li- ed its name the distance jrds a soil the foUow- utain. The ce of which Duntain than to that ap- which bepa- corated with with silvery ith a down, posed to the ation applies I the winds; down secures ence receive. 1 had no ap- ons presented The tulip of slopes, and a r issued from s much of his plants he had d not under- ; he therefore it the environs known under Y(, was still in SB with which juice exuding r the corollas, killed some of night preserve visiting Table; >ri7.outiil plane, )eheUl at adis- e of the mouii- nn. He clam- vcry hard frr r- )f quartz ot a| able Mountiiii , Ihev ^e of Good Hop? quires no artificial the inclemeiic) oli| ssing their aliments, jl tie wood they l»a'l;v| ■yoml Table Moiiii. negroes, carry in; birauchd they began to make an atiiick upon then- pro- visions, when some of the people belonging to the Esperancc, advanced towards them, who had made an excursion thitlier without fiirnishino themselves with food; with them thcj had the pleasure of sharing in a frugal repast. False Bay was very perceptible from the top of this mountain, every part of which our naturalist guccessively visited. He reUirned with an abund- ant collection of vegetables, by the track in which he had ascended. Beyond the head of the bay a vast plain of sand presents itself, on which he was astonished to behold a great quantity of vegetables. He crossed several rivulets, the waters of which descended from the neighbouring nuiuntains, and are partly lost in the sands before they arrive at the sea. In such moist spots grows the beautiful lilaceous plant known by the name of gethyUiH spiralis. Holes made in the sand are resorted to by snakes, which are often found asleep on their edges, but glide into them on the approach of human visitors. He had hitherto found only a small number of insects, as they delight not in pUces so much exposed to the wind. He had already collected most of the vegetable [productions to be found at this season, in the [neighbourhood of the Cape. He could not [promise himself a more abundant harvest, witli- [out going to a distance. Some mountains men- tioned by the Dutcb under the nm^o of Frenchc Hoec, situated to the eastward, at a greater dis- [tance than its appearance seemed to indicate. [Expecting to find there a great variety of spe- jcimens, he was resolved to visit them. He set jout on the 9th of February, taking with him [the gardener belonging to the expedition: a Hot- Itentot led a horse, that carried their baggage; land a young negroe, who hardly a knew a word )f French, was chosen inter|)reter. A passport, with which they were obliged to provided, was obligingly sent to Labilladicre »y Mr. Berg; and Colonel Gordon, the com- nanches of Tariou* shrubs ti> town, among which tliey emarkcd the ciimonia capeiish, and many tine specie's of rotea: after admiring the beauty of these plants, tiicy had lie mortitication to be informed that (hey had been cut only ) burn. The mountains in the neighbourhood of the town, servo an asylum for the run-away slaves, who have been im> ellcd to desert from barbarous treatment. Under cover If the night, the pressure of hunger objigcs them to ap. mandcr of the troops at the Cape, had given him letters of introduction to several of the in- habitants. Colonel Gordon is the celebrated traveller who first furnished ButTon vvith just ideas respecting the girafte, or camelopard, an animal little known till then. To make disco- , veries in natural history, this gentleman pene- trated into the interior of Africa, as far as thtt *;ion, lies, snakes try people ; watching »rey. leights, btit sight of a by Buifon, where our >se animals nt of their ►Uowcd by a iing himself one of his the ground, , er paw. If •uilt to pu- ist have been lly chastised iod of their em to hasten leave of the Hh, at ten at rn. All the th flat roofs, ome appear- part of the J • globe do not exceed X)0. JBarroji' 'ow. ii. 753. arestini; colony, lai. deserves that Travels, a most riking contrast r. Barrow'i ac. >f the littlQ Nc. which arc the tnd he ridiculed larter, while ha lioiteraui Tanity )t his narrativi-, cannot be cow. l^lobe which ought to be attended to by a com- (icrcial people. From its situation it forms necessary refreshing place for shins bound to Ihc East Indies. The provision wliith it fur- nishes are abundant; but the prohibitory re- gulations daily diminish tlie number of ships ; many endeavour to arrive at their place of deHtination, without tou( Iiiiifr at this road-htoad. Others go to St. Helena, wliorc they can bo victualled on more moderate terms. SECTION III. eparturc from the Cape of Good Hope — Death of the Carpenter <♦/* the Recherche— S\Iakc the Island of St. Paul — Its Forests on Fire — Vast Quantity of Insects issuing from the liiscuits-r' The Admiral i« much hurt — Luminous Sparks at the Extremity of the Conductors — Large Phosphoric Molecules — Diminution of the Pliosphorescence of the Sea- Water — Direction of the Currents — Warmth required in the Place where the l^me-kecpers are deposited — Anchor in Port D'Entrecasteaux. the clouds were charged, was so abundant, that the lightning fell several times at the distance of a few meters from the ship. On the 1st of March the wind had raised so heavy a sea, that their consort was concealed by the height of the waves. On the 3d, they were convinced, that they had passed the Straits of Mozambique ; for though the wind blew nearly with equal force, the sea was hardly ruflled, as they were now sheltered by the land of Madagascar. About five in the afternoon, they were surrounded by whales, which approached them within the dis- tance of a hectometer. The Americans fre- quently visit these seas to procure these enor- mous fishes; the oil which they extract from them being thought an ample compensation for their labour and ex pence. On the 7th, about nine in the evenin^^, the wind brought our adventurers a strong smell from the sea. In seas less known, the vicinity of land might have been apprehended : it is not pear on decli till it w.is too Lite to send them on shore ; in conscqiionco of which they were permitted to go with the expedition. One of them was a soldier, who bad deserted from the garrison of the Cape ; the other a German, who had exercised his trade, as a mathematical instrument matter, nine years in £ng1and. The English, he said, were conveying him to Botany Bay, with a number of other persons, transported under the denomination of convicts. He declared ho was banished there for debt, but seizing an opportunity of escaping from the ship in which ho was confined, he had taken refuge in the mountains. Ho there passed the day in a cavern, and in the evening wont into Cape Town to procure subsistence, watting for tho (leparluro of tho other persons under sentence of tritnspor. tation. UR adventurers were waiting for a fair wind to quit the Cape, when, on the I6th February, at ten in the morning, a favourable rreze sprang up, and induced them to weigh nchor. lia^ly were they under sail before a ]u»ll came down from the mountains, and lew with such violence, that they were in danger f running foul of several vessels then lying at e anchorages; but they quickly passed them all, id gained an oflSng. On the 1 8th in the morning, they lost their arpenter, Louis Gorgan: he died in consequence f the excesses to which he had abandoned him- If during bis continuance at the Cape. This ss was the more to be regretted, as a skilful iarpenter is one of the most useful men *. At this season of tlie year, it is uncommon to ass across the Straits of Mozambique, at a ttle distance from land, without meeting with iolent storms. A gale now blew with almost icrcdiblc fury; the electric matter, with which There arc few places whose natural history has been so biy explored, as the territory of tiie Dutch colony at the ipc of Good Hope, and the country adjacent; nor docs ly teem to have better repaid tho labour of research. Tho itany of Southern Africa is more rich and |H;culiar than at of any other country, and most of the singular and itutiful inhabitants of our stoves and grecn.houses have en hence procured. Tho class of bulbous-rooted plants sue might bo selected as peculiarly characteristic of the ^pe; for no whero cls0 are they found so abundant, so riouE, or so splendid ; nor U it only at one season of tho ir that this splendid sctuie i« exhibited, every mopth has peculiar beauties. i* Two porsuus, who had concealed themselves on board [thetimtsof their departure from the Cape, did not ap> Wqu II. No. LXXI. impossible 84 VOYAGF; in RRAUCrT OF LA PKROUSR. impossiblti that tiiil odour proceeded from a heap of sea-weed, detaciied fro..i the coast of Madagascar, and conveyed to a great distance hy the currents *. It was not till the 2H)li of March that the wind began to bh)w stroiia; at north-nor|h-wcst. A great number of various tpccics of mews and boobies announced to our adventurers the proximity of land; as thcno birds are never seen far distant from it. At about half after one in tlie afternoon, they saw it in the soutli-cast : it was the island of St. Paul, from which they were now distant about four myriametcrs. It was discovered by Captain Valming in 1696, and named the island of Amsterdam ; and that which is hiore to the southward, received the name of (he island of St. Paul. Captain Cook, who survejed it in his last voyage, has adopted a contrary denomination, by calling the island of Amsterdam that which is the southernmost, and the island of St. Paul that which is the northern- most f. On the I4th the mercury in the barometer having fallen from 28 inches 3 lines, to 27 inches 7 lines, unced tempestuous winds : they blew froi *. and south-west, raising a dread- ful sea, wii.ch often broke on board : there came one, about five o'clock, which struck the ship's quarter with such violence, that many of the seamen thought they had touched upon a rock. A violent shake threw the admiral against one of the angles of a bird-org-an, intended as a present for some chief among the savages. At first, * the surgeon supposed the short ribs had been fractured ; the pain was so acute, that the admiral, in sneezing, fainted away ; but. soon after recovered. Towards morning a heavy sea broke over the gangway, and filled the vessel between decks. The * On the iDth, one of the snilors, in the height of in. toKication, jiiiiipcd overboard ; it bfing calm, he was for. tiiuatdy picked up. TMs immersion, however, served only to increase his Inebriation ; for, in his dtjiiriiini, he would have jumped overboard a second ti i^ to imbibe its brightness, when it communicated a copp'.'^ coloured tint, as at the approach of a storm. The islMi^ of St. Paul is about two myriamuters in circumference holding VOYAGE IN SKARCFl OF I.A TEROL'SF. 85 [holding ground: and that wood and Water might [easily be procured there. The boats crew {observed remains of some huts, close to which Kvere remnants of sheU-fiiih that had been broiled ]hy the natives. J As it was too late to reach this anchorage [before it was dar'-, and, as the weather was fine, it was decided, about five o'clock, to let go the mchor in Storm Bay, in ten fathoms water. The night continued to be fine, though the air pvas charged with great humidity. They wcic iheltcred from the wind, except some light iqualls from the south-west, a small portion of which they experienced. They caught, with a look and lioe, a great many fishes, and of very liversified species; among which the most nu- merous was a species of gadus*. An officer having been sent on shore, in the lorning, to sound towards the head of the har- r, found a few huti^, and near them some remains of broiled fish, which had evidently Iformed a repast for some of the natives. It4)eing almost calm, they weighed anchor before day-light on the 23d, in order to warp a-head. The calm continuing, it was thought expedient to tow the ship, and the boats soon brought them into the harbour. They let go the anchor about eight o'clock, after having pro- ceeded about three quarters of a kilometer up the harbour, which was denominated Port D'En- trecasteaux. The nearest shore to the eastward of them, was at the distance of a denii-kilo- metcr. In this solitary haven, situated at the extremity of the globe, they found a secure shelter, after having been so long buill'ted with impetuous winds. The same boats were occupied in towing the Esperance ; and about one o'clock in the after- noon, she anchored to the southward of the l{e- cherche, at about three hectometers distance. An attempt was made to approach the shore, without having taken exact soundings ; but they soon got agroimd on the mud, and were obliged to heave quickly at the capstern to bring the ship off again. • SECTiON IV. Wt Continuance at Port D'Entrecasteaux — Indications of its being visited Inj Sax'ages— Excursions to the Interior — Trees of an cxtraordinarti Height — Excellence of the Soil — Black Sxvans — Large Trunks of Trees, excavated by Fire — ^ Retreat for the J^'atives — Tracts of wild Beasts at Cape Diemen — Sheds and Hals — A violent Squall — Get aground on the Alud — Meet nn'h. a young Savage — Signs of wild Beasts at Cape Diemen — Huts appearing to have been receuHy inhabited — Broiled Human Bones found — The Sail-maker of the Recherche loses himself in the Woods^" Utensils of the Savages — Leave Port D'Entrecasteaux — Several Fires — Xatives seen on the Beach-^ Excursion to the neighbouring Country — Muivcs surpjused close by the little Fires, preparing their Food — larious meetings xcilh the Savages. ^ORT D'Entrecasteaux, situated at the head of Storm Bay, is almost an oval basin, cx- tndiiig^a demi-myrianiefer towards the north- )rtli-east ; the gr<'ilo>t breadth of which is )out a hilomeler iuid a half, the large forests lich surrounded tli'-m, and the neighbouring * A boat which had !'<' ii sent a fishing had, at the single It of a net, bronghr iuicU. thh enough to supply every |c with a portion, wlitiM was immediately served out. hev wore nut a littU- st^> |>rised to see, among those caught hook and line, somi' sharks of about two meters long; By' were of the iiioi us denominated squaliin cimreus. ^is Shark, which > Idoiu quits the bottom of the sua, is sui)pos«d to bo daiij^erouf to mauj tlie sailors often mountains which sheltered more than half of the circumference of this harbour, added greatly to the security of the ancliorage. The most tempestuous weather did not deter the seamen from crossing it. A muddy, bottom of three fathoms and a half, exempts a vessel from in- bathed, and never found them oti'ensijo. This (ish finds such an abundance of food to satiate his voracity, that he does not attack men. Some mo'U)t:tins, the pcrpendimiar ht'ight of which seemed to be about a hijometcr, were syun to the north. Their summits were covered with large trees, whose verdure added beauty to the grand prospect which they afforded. ^ jury 80 VOYAGE IN SEARCH OV LA PPnOUSR. 'M jury ir ghe should happen to get aground. A hundred ships of the' line might anchor here in aafety, and find as much wood and water as they required. Some sheds, hastily huilt of the hark of trees, indicated to our adventurers that they were fre- quented hy the natives. A fire lighted towards the south, at the distance of a myrianietcr, also convinced them that there were resident savages not far from them ; though they never had seen any of them *. But the trees of this forest were not so hud- dled together, as to prevent the adventurers from entering it. In some places, where the waters had been occasionally obstructed in their course, they formed marshes. On visiting their banks, they found rivulets of good water. An excellent -vegetable mould, of about four decimeters in depth, was almost general. Sometimes tiiey met with clayey, or argillaceous earth, which >m- bibed the water with such facility as to form quagmires. Besides, this clay, conducted by the waters that filtrate through the lands, has left cavities and small pools, the surfice of which being covered with plants, conceals the danger. A moment's inadvertence would occasion a per- son to fall in. A circumstance of this kind really happened to the surgeon of the Espe- rauce. Taking the diversion of shooting, he supposed he was setting his foot on solid ground, when he instantly sunk into a very deep pond ; he disappeared in an instant, but fortunately he could swim f. One of the party shot, on the lake, a. bird of singular plumage : it was a new species of the swan somewhat larger than the common sort. It had the same elegant shape ; but its colour was a shining black: it had but six white feathers iri each wing; a character which our naturalists constantly remarked in several others that were * Tho naturalist went on slrorc, in tlic afti>rnoon, M'ilh the gardener, and two (tthcrst, to pi8twind, which etuoua. These rk of man ; for accident, as by ing in Uie shade {>robably have erence. These er to the iuha- ke their meals : food was found res, which had ovisioos. Some by fire through- troys only to rcno. Citiscn Rioho'i ser. a few birds, which rfaiit had for sumo I of tha Kiiperanco, tme kiliud by hiv pa. lion, uur cr«n ihunv lirucur* htm a single prartluet Im> obliged itvatloV )i iHiwerl'ul t, by tati ox.()erteaa', out VOYAGE IN SEARCH 01 LA PEROUSE. tT out tlieir wliole lengtb, formed a kind of chim- ney; but tven in that state they continued to vegetate. After having followed the sea shore, which extends to the south-east, he killed some hirds of the molaciili genus, and several parrots; among which he rcaiurked the new Caledonian parrot, described by Latham *. After having crossed a tongue of land, they proceeded with difficulty in the midst of the *i)oving sands of a vast beach, the skirts of which the sea had lately overflowed. On their return, by a more direct path, they observed some skeletons of cabins. It appeared, how- ever, that the human species here is very scarce or very shy ; though many jjersons belonging to tJio two ships had sauntered about, and visiied several (juarters, they had not met with a single iiihabitiiut. On the 37th, at day-break our adventurers set out with a view of proceeding as far as they could. They landed to the south-east, pursued a path along the shore, frequented by the natives, and crossed the forest that lay to the south. Though the wind was faint, the sea broke with violence, and overflowed a considerable extent of beach. On a little hillock, projecting to- wards the sea, a pretty species of banksia was [procured, which Gurtner designates under the I liunie of banksia gibosa f. The hope of meeting with some of the savages, induced tlicm io determine to advance farther into the woods, and to pass the night in ex- ploring them. They walked about an hour to- wards the east, opening to themselves a very dif- ticult road, till they arrived" at a large plain ex- tending to the sea-shore. Here they saw a tine ' ipecies of miviosn, with long single leaves of an oval form. This tree bears semicircular pods, and itti height is from eight to teti meters. Night obliging them to seek a shelter, they * One of tho offirers found a young kangaroo on the If here : after this animal had run about a hundred meters on utUti ^und, it leaped into the water, and wns kiilcd. As it lc»iiiri out of Hi burrow mure by night than by day, nature Ih'.* given it a membrane, known to soologiiits un(}er the Idcnonnination of me/nbrana nicitans, situated at the inte. Irior angle of (he eye, and capable of extending orer the, Iwhole ball. These animals, perhaps, find some food on [the seashore, as tho Diiuk< of their feet are frequently to [bo seen on the sonde. 'f Proceeding aerois tho forest, not f»r fron the sea, Vol. II. No. LXXI. h'.d recourse to a pole-axe, which one of them had the precaution to provide himself with. ?< >me branches, cut on the spot, enabled them to erect a hut on a piece of ground, the hardness of which was moderated by a bed of feru. Being on the skirts of the shore their view was ex- tensive, but they could perceive nothing that indicated the presence of any natives. The cold being intense, they kindled a fire. As they had taken with them only one day's provisions on their leaving the ship, their stock began to be much impaired, but they were not much alarmed on that account, knowing it was customary for sailors never to travel without a portion of biscuit; and consequently that they could produce a quantity among them : but, with this supply, they were greatly distressed for want of water, which could not possibly be had but at two kilometers distance. It therefore required a good appetite to be satisfied with such a supper. As they were seven persons in the party, they had uot much to fear from the natives; but they so arranged their business, that each of them should keep watch in bis turn, to attend to their motions if they should be inclined to paythem a visit. Urged by extreme cold they quitted the hut that they might indulge themselves by the fire. On the 28tb, at the appearance of day, a party of them employed themselves in shooting, hoping to procure a breakfast by their skill as marksmen : a crow and an oyster-catcher were the only birds which fortune had thrown in their way. These victims of their hunger were im- mediately broiled and eaten, with as much gleo as if they had been the most voluptuous of food. It had been thought necessary, the preceding evening, \o limit themselves to a very nioderatu allowance, that something might be reserved for the next day; but, on examination, it un- fortunately appeared that our provisions had one of (ho party saw a young native, who ran away mvch terrified at (ho report of a nnisqnct, which had been fired at a bird. This circumstance having been mentioned to tho rest of the company, (hey ran .owardj the spot to which he had fled, hoping they should obtain an interview with tome of (he inhabitants of this country ; but their cndca> Tours were Ineffectual ; the young savage had disappeared, darting preciptta(ely into the closest thickets, at the risk of tearing his skin, which Mas his only covering. They found, at the place from which he ran, a shed to keep off the sva breeze; and near it, a spring of clear water. It been 88 VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF LA PEROUSE. ! li t been confided to unsafe hands : only four of the biscuits now remained^ though the stock would have consisted of six, if integrity had not been abandoned. A greater breach of conHdence would have obliged them immediately to return oi} board, and they would have been deprived of the advantages of extending their researches far- ther. They were not long in reaching the banks of a large lake, which communicates with the sea ; but their endeavours to ford it were vain ; the depth towards the middle being too pro- found. Among the number of plants wbich grew in the neighbouring woods, they found the schef' jlern repe-ns, and several species of a new genus of the family of the pedicularcs, and nearly allied to the polygala. Among the shrubs, not far from the sea, they remarked a fine species of the single-leaved mimosa, the legume of which was shaped in the form of an S. They saw a numerous quantity of black swans which swam away from them. They remarked, towards the shore, opposite to a lake, some islots covered with shrubs : they shot various species of snipes, when they advanced to the south-east, in order to reach the extremity of the lake the farthest from the sea. This lake is strewed with a prodigious quantity of shells, which have been partly destroyed by time. They saw on its banks the crilhmum marinum, and near it a new species of parsley, that our botanist denominated apium prostratum, from the disposition of its stem, which is always prostrate on the ground. Sup- posing this a salutary article of food, they carried on board an ample stock of it, where it was re- ceived with joy by the navigators; who saw the necessity of counteracting, by the use of vege- tables, the ill efffccts of salt provisions, on which they had lived in their passage from the Cape of Good Hope ia Cape Diemen. In a lim^)id ri- vulet, to the westward of the lake, they soaked the little biscuit they had now remaining. It was difficult, after so long a walk, to re- turn to their ships, passing through forests which till then they had never visited. The sun, proceeding in its course, served to direct them : * Their people went out regularly with the Rcine every FTening, and brought i>ack. a considerable quantity of fish. On the first of May, tliey went to the westward, on (he other side of the harbour: the shallownciis of the water kept the boat at so great a distanrc from the beech, that they were obliged to step iuio the sea to reach the shore. very thick underwood then impeded theiir pro*- gress. The inequalities of the ground, having obstructed the passage of the waters, they were often obliged to cross the marshes ; but the nu- merous plants which they contained induced them to forget the difficulties that occurred in the road. Among those which they collected, were two new species of the rosa soUs ; one of which is remarkable for the singular form of its leaves : they consist of two long points; situated at the extremity of each petal, which proceeds from the root of the plant. After two days* hard travelling; they arrived at the northern extremity of the liarbour where their ships were lying, and saw them at a con- siderable distance. The ditficulty of the road had deprived them of every hope of getting so far that evej'irg, but opportunely a boat pre- sented itself, ai.:3 they were conveyed on board. Cretin,, one of the officers of the ship, had been' sent by the admiral into the launch, accom- panied by a geographical engineer, to rcoon- noitre Storm Bay. On their return, they related tliat, after having proceeded several myriame- ters iuto a channel, which our adventurers had left on the starboard hand, when they entered the bay, everything concurred in justifying the opinion that this was a strait. Our naturalist did not go out of the ship the two following days, having been cjuployed in describing and preparing the abundant collection which he had made in his last excursion *. Some mountains of gr.dual declivity, situated to the westward, formed a beautiful valley. They followed a difficult road, intending to repair to the place where water is procured for the ships: the night overtook them half way; and, to complete their misfortunes, a heavy fall of rain obliged them, like the savages of New Holland, to seek a shelter in excavated trunks of trees. Ijnagimng the weather would render um- less the signals they were to make for a boat to be taken to them, they were preparing to pass a disagreeable night in the midst of these foresls, when they were agreeably disappointed. Hear- ing the voice of some sailors, who had been sent *A^ They followed their course to the northward, keeping alon^' the skirls of the beach; some hollows, formed in tlic sand like a funrnrl, concealed each a small globular crab, wliirh had fabricated this hole; and when the water ha«l retired it .regained its habitual abode; these holes might also serio them as kuares lu cutrnp tUuir prey. in Ipro + lrj( Erv t VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF LA PEROUSE. 89 which he had in search of them, they joyfully attended to their summons to go on board *. On the 3d of May, they traversed a glade situated to the north-east, which conducted them towards the great lake. In a preceding excur- sion they had seen the south part of it, and they Ithought it necessary to visit its northern side. Its banks were often steep, and of difficult access, and various species of single-leaved mimosa were growing under the shade of the large trees. I It appeared to our adventurers, that the natives toccasioually take up their abode on the banks of ftiiis lake, the shell-fish of which afforded them supply of food. Advancing a little further, [they perceived a hut, constructed a few yards [from the water-side; it almost exhibited the {form of a demi-oval, fifteen meters in height, by [sixteen in breadth at its base. Stakes were driven l;iiio ihe ground at each end, bent into a semi- [ circle, which supported each other in such a 'manner as to form a tolerably compact frame, ' "which was covered with bark. About ten o'clock ^they found no difficulty in getting on board f. This tree, which is one of the most lofty in ^nature, some of them being a demi-hectometer in height, bears flowers only near its summit. They were obliged to cut down one of these Irecs to procure 'its flowers. This very beauti- ful tree, of the family of the mjjrti, is covered f'ith a smoothish bark ; the branches are a little ingulatcd as they rise; towards their extremity they are adorned with alternate leaves, slightly lowed, about two decimeters long, by a demi- lecimeter broad. The flowers are solitary, and ^row from the axilla of the leaves. The bark, ihe leaves, and the fruit, are aromatirs, which iiitrht be had recourse to in lieu of thotic which Ihe r,Ii»luccas have tor a time exclusively supplied mankind. The day was far spent when they arrived on Ihe banks of a rivulet, where they took up their luarters ''or the night. They observed, at this )uthern extremity of New Holland, soeral spe- * Two buats had brun (lispittchcd, a second time, to re. Qtinoitrc (ho iiurth-east part of Storm Bay, as far as fasiii. Ill's Head ; at thv end uf four days thpy returned, and Be result uf their disroveries appeared to he, that Taxman's lead, and Adventure Day, made li part uf an island sepa. Itt'd Iroiii Vuti Dieinen's Land. + Ai loH water tliey found, on the spa-shorc, a great |aiiety of iicrUm and whelks: and here they procured some ery exceilriit oysters. The uatuialist had iiotyct been ablu to procure th« flowers cies of ancistrum, analogous to those of the southern extremity of America. They were surrounded by delightful groves, principally formed by a species of the narrow-leaved the.' siuvi X The next day, after a few hours walk to the north-west, they found, under the shade of some very large trees, two huts of the same rude ar- chitecture which they had already seen. They were in perfect repair, and seemed to have beea recently inhabited. A beautiful plant was ga- thered, which forms a new genus ; it is one of the irides with two stamina. Our adventurers were crossing a small coppice; when a large kangaroo quitted his burrow : at first, our naturalist followed, for the space of thirty yards, one of the little paths which these quadrupeds make through the busbe»: he could not avoid using his fore-feet in these narroMr passages. When he had reached the extremity of them, he sprang forward by Ieap9> passing over the shrubs with so much velocity that he was presently out of sight. A sheet of water, into which a charming rivulet directed its course, was covered with an assemblage of wild ducks, which took wing as they approaciied them ; not being prepared for so charming a prospect, they were unable to kill one of them. A breeze got up before right, which seemed to threaten them with rain. No shelter being near them, they were compelled tO' sleep in the open air : a hedge, which they had themselves constructed with branches and boughs, was their only protection from the weather ; and under this shed they produced a magnificent fire. A very large kangaroo came out within fout yards of the naturalist, from the middle of a thicket : his gun flashed in the pan, and the animal moved oft' slowly, taking one of the paths mad(! through the groves. The numerous tracks of these quadrupeds pronounce them very nu- merous. It is observable too, that these little of a new species of eucalyptus, remarkable for its fruif,. which has some resemblance of a coat-button. + The cold had obliged thorn to kindle a large fire, and they were preparing for repose, when the howl <5f a wild beast, seemingly only a few yards distant, exceedingly alarmwl them. The howling resembled that of aleopird;. whence it was concluded, that their tire had contributed, much more than they could have supposed, to prvveat this animal from making them a nearer visit. paths,. m VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF LA PEROUSE. ptttlis generally terminate at some rivulet. The provisions of our adventurers bein^ .exhausted^ they thouglit proper to return on board *. A constant humidity prevailed in the middle of these thick forests, into which our naturalist penetrated towards the south-west. In tliis spot grew many mosses and ferns, and here they killed the beautiful species of merops, indicated by White under the denoujination of tvatlled bee- eater. This bird is remarkable for two large appendages, or wattles, oa each side of the liead f. A heavy shower of rain, about tlie middle of the day, forced our adventuters to stop in the large trunk of a hollow tree, which served them as a shelter : this tree exceeded eight meters in circumference. Endeavouring to light a tire ia it, after the manner of the New Hollanders, they were so incommoded with the smoke, that they were driven from their retreat. On the ap- proach of night, they found themselves on the banks of a small lake, wiiich, though it had a communication with the sea, was destitute of fish: the people of the Esperance had often hauled the seine in it, but never cauglit any thing |. , During their stay fit Cape Diemen, they saw no natives but at a considerable distance : all of whom ran off with precipitation, as soon as they were observed : some hacf left behind them their domestic utensils, which conveyed no very exalted idea of their industry ; these were baskets clumsily manufactured of a species of sea-rush. They had also frequently left their water- vessels. No armo were ever fouad in the places they had ' recently quitted ; they were either taken away or caretully concealed, that they might not be used to their prejudice. A few straggling huts indicated a scanty po- pulation : the shells of fish, collected in heaps near the beach, was thoughi good circumstantial * Citizen Riche discovered some huiran bones, in thu ■ashes of a fire kindled by liie savages. By (heir shape, Jio pronounced them to l)e the ossa innominrita of a young girl ; they were partly covered with pieces of broiled llesh. >Jot supposing that these people were cannibals, he supposed it was their practice to burn the dead. These were, however, the only liuman bones that were seen during their con. tinuance at this anchorage. + A quadruped of the size of a large dog, about this time, came out of a bush quite close to one of the shipmates, It was white, spotted with black, and > >d the appearance of a wild beast. These cunntrics will probably, on a future day, adu several species to the cataioguo of the zoologist. evidence, that the sea-shores furnished principally the food of these savages. The multiplicity of paths, in which the tracts of different quadru- i peds were discovered, demonstrate that they are here very numerous. Whilst day-light exists, they probably remain in the inaccessible haunts bf these thick forests. Hooks and lines, and the seine procured our adventurers fish in abund- ance: east, and south-east winds brought myriads of them into the bay. Van Dicmcn's Land was discovered by Tasman, in November, I6i2. When Captain Cook an- chored there in 1777, four years after Furneaux, he thought he was the third of the European navigators who had landed on this coast : he was ,, then ignorant of Captain Marinon's having con- 1 tinned there some time, and that he left it oa the lOth of March, 1772. This harbour on ac«:ount of its smooth wafer, ^^ is extremely convenient for refitting ships ; and the vast forests near it aflord a wood which tlte carpenters of the ship pronounced excellent for ship building. A small island to the snuth-west had been h called I'Uk au Perdrix, Partridge Island, by some of the seamen whu h.«d discovered it. Our naturalist accompanied Citizen Riche to that spot on the 20{\\, to spend the day : and, inslcat of partridges they found a great quantity o quails. This island is about two kilometeis in length : the new species of parsley named apiuin in'ostvatum, grew in abundance on its i- shores. They gathered a quantity of it, wliich i they took on board. This islot produced in i fresh water, though several fors.iken huts attested ;- that it had been inhabited by savages. Two of the oflicers had set olf at six in tho morning to rce(MHmitre the coast wliieh lay to the eastward of them. They remarked sever! coves, which formed so many harbours: u stroiii'^ X Their sail-maker having veiilirrod alone on .-» si u ..r excursion, the prcciding day, had lost himself in f-ewouJ^I where lie was obliged (o pass the ni^ht Several guns hnviii:; been (ired from the ship to signify to him where slic lay, li' returned on board in tlie afternoon, exhausted with him; •■ and fatigue. Having taken no provisions with him, he li i I been a day and a half Mithout food. He asserted tliii. during the night, difl'erent quadrupeds approached him, mil smelt him ut a few centimeters distance. Many pcoiilc believed this relation ; but those who had passed several nights lu the thickest part of the woods, without meetings Willi any such familiar animals, scorned a little sceptirul. breeze lider lein )r pi » »nro I'Sl'.Vi iiive, splay lac ! + Iter, In l(.'l ka ^er (( I"ho Itcnt pyrf i>ms < VOYAGF. m SEARCH OF LA PEROUSI" 91 d by Tasinan, lin Cook iui- er Furneaux, he European ;oast : he was s having coii- be left it on jmooth wafer, ig ships ; and tod which iVi.: excellent ior teat bad been ' go Island, by kored it. Our R it-he to th.it ; and, inslt-ad t quantity »)t kiloujfters in mrsley nanicil lulaiifc on iH , y of it, w liiili productnl n > 11 liutii tlttCSU'd! >e3. at six in tl which hiy t'l narked ucvti ^ 1 )our»i'. u strot'.L' jiip OK a s' I. .< '. iisi'lf ill t'ewo;)) l'VitbI i;tiMs liaviii whcri< slu' liiy. !; iistinl willi hiHif with him, he li 1 1 Ho usiicrted tlni, roaclu'il him, :nil \, Many i»Mi|ilo ad jiassod m-feral without mcodng littlo sceptical. brcc'/c jroeze impeded their progress, and prevented Ithem from advancing very far into them. Per- Iceiving several fires at a little distance, they frame to a determination to land; and hardly [bad they entered the woodf, when they met with [four natives cm|)loyed in keeping up three small Ifires. These savages immediately fled^ notwith- Ifitanding the significant tokens of amity which were Imanifesicd by our adventurers. In their hasty Jcparture, they left behind them the lobsters, lud other shell-fish, which they were broiling )H the coals. As maiiy cabins, as they bud seen ires, were observed at a little distance. One of the savages who was a tall mviscuhir lan, had inadvertently left a small basket behind liim, and was not afraid to return and look for It. He advanced quite close to Lieutenant Cretin, i^ith an air of consequence which his strength lecmed to warrant. These savages are not of a leep black, but they have woolly hair, and sutler "Iheir beards to grow. Some of them were per- fectly naked, others had a kangaroo's skin thrown )ver their shoulders. The household utensils i-hicb they abandoned, consisted of about thirty irush baskets, some of which were full of crabs, »nd other shell fish. These baskets are generally [bout a meter in depth, though many of them jre shallower, but nearly of the same shape. The method taken by these savages to procure ire, is to strike two pieces of silex one against he other: in this they difler much from the other ihabitants of the South Sea, and even from ihe other savages of the cast partof New Holland, circumstance which seems to assign to them a lilVercnt origin. These people also left behind icm several kangaroo skins, and some vessels )r preserving water. * Two ixTsons had boea sont, in a boat from tho ?'spo. MKC! to visit a cove, about a myriJinoUT distant to tho Iri'sl.vaid. Tho>io who were on this siTvice met with a itivo, who, njtwithstandinjt every liign of friendship was Isplayi'd and expressed, would not suffer himself to bo ap. ^uaclied within tho distance of two hoctomotcrii. 1+ On the banks of a rivulet which contained very good Iter, grew various sporiciB of rnstini'ina.^ one of which %* rumarkable for its club.shaped fruit. Several paths, tho direction towards the rivulet, had been beaten by kangaroos, for their accomjuodation in passing to tho h-r to allay their thirst. [Tho persons who had been sent to survey tho whole tent of the strait, returned after an absence of four days : ty reported that it watt about four myriamotcrs and a half Dg, from south.wcst to north.cast ; not loss than six fa* »nu and a half water had been found in it, with ft bottom [Vol. II. No. LXXI. The two officers would not permit the sailors to4:ouch any of tho eficcts of these natives; but they took for the admiral a large and small basket, a kangaroo's skin, and a vessel made of sea-weed, which would hold five quarts of water. The savages had no cause to lament the loss of theso articles, for the ofTieers left on the spot some knives, handkerchiefs, biscuits, cheese, and an earthen jug*. It appears that those natives which bad been seen the preceding day, had no dislike to the bread and water that had been deposited for them, but the smell of tl'C cheese, it was sup- posed, prevented their tasting it; for it was found in the state in which it had been left- In the same place were also found one of the knives, and the handkerchief which had been left with their effects the day before. A few shots having been fired at some birds, accelerated the depar- ture of these savages, as a boat from the ship went to the same spot two days after ; and none of them were to be met with f . After having run a demi-myriametcr along thit channel, they entered a second bay, about a my- riameter in extent. On the 26th they weighed anchor early in the morning, and at noon found themselves in a third bay : the depth of water ia the middle of which was not less than eleven fathoms; and, at the distance of two hectometers from the shore, they bad not less than six fathoms;];. Our adventurers landed on the beach, from which they had so hastily fled, where they found a great number of stones of a very beau- tiful granite, extremely hard, and rounded by attrition. Four catamarans lay on the beach ; and a sort of skiHs calculated only for smooth of mud, or fine sand. Advoiituru Hay is separated from it by a fonguo of land, the breadth of which is about four hectometers. The nalivos kindled upwards of twenty lircs on tlie south shore; several families had probably been at- tracted towards the coast by the intelligonco they had re- ceived respecting their new visitors. X They got under way on the '27th, at seven in tho morn, ing; soon after which tiiey beheld a fire mar tho shore, which announced that some of the nalives were not far" distant: one of them were seen a few nunu(e : < -■-,.,. .-•■-.. Like the other savages, this womjin wore over her shoulders the skin of a kangsiroo ; she had another, performing the office of an apron by covering her nakedness. Our Europeans were of opinion that this garment was chosen more on account of the severity of the weather, than from a sentiment of shame; for among the natives, seen by Captain Cook at Adventure Bay, at u few kilometers from this place, the women were all naked. In the night of the 28th, the north wind blew in such squalls that th« Esperance drove, though she was riding by a very heavy bower anchor. They had spent more time than they intended in exploring D'Entrecasteaux's strait; and, in order to get out of it they had to go about the distance of a dcmi-myriamefer. Tlie wind was against them, but the tide was in their favour, and they weiafhed anchor between nine and ten o'clock. In working out, they often stood within three hectometers of the roast, where their soundings were front twelve to thirteen fathoms. To the northward ll»"V discerned a vast bay, or rather •ru]f, intersected by islots, and terminated by the main land, which was seen in (he distance ; va- rious bends in it seemed to promise cry excclleiil f11 anchorage '■f|.'!-_ fi SECTION V. . Importance of D'Entrccastemix Strait — Passage from Cape Dicmcn to Xno Caledunixi — Dm-] gerous Situation of the Recherche — See t Natives hij the Sea-Side — Sviril! .irchipelago tuar .Mw \ Caledonia — Survey the West Part of hougainxillc's Island — The Reclurchc in Danger on the' Shoals — Interview ivith the Savages of lionka Island — Fondness of the Savages for ..1/»«/c— . !| Their Dishoncstrj—'Anchor in Carteret's Harbour — larious Excursions into the aurroundiiU'W Country. IN D'Entrecasteaux's strait, a vessel may come to an anchor in any part, with a certainty ^-' linding a good bottom, with a depth of water from six and a half to seven fathoms. Not a shoal is there to be met with. An an equal dis- * A I)ou( had landed on the other shore near afire, where eight of (he natives were observed, each of whom had hi.') shoulders covered with a kiingarooN skin. Theiie savages fled as soon as they knew they had been seen. An old woman, liiden with provisions, which sho was not willing to be deprived of, was speedily overtaken by some of the tance from its two extremities, where the coar^■c sand predominates, ^the ground is not so good,! and there is less water. No danger is to be ap- prehended in approachi.ig the land within (hi> distance of two hectometers. The windings ot sailors : she had just been highly delighted with the rcrdjit of a handkerchief, hut when they exhibited a knife to liir, which they also intended to make her a present of, she w-.m so exceedingly shocked, that she threw herself from the (0/ 13 of a very steep declivity, Ucd over the rocks, and iiium'. diately disappeared, >-■ .. < ■ •■ the VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF LA PEROLNR. 93 ia wore over 00 ; she had an apron bv ro pea IIS were losen more on i-eatlier, thun ig the natives, Lire Bay, at ;i ; women were ■ rth wind blew hove, though lower anchcr. ey intended in " and, in order lit the distance 1 was against 'onr, and they i ten o'tlork, i within three lieir souiidii);;'^ loms. To tlic bay, or ratlier miiiated by tlie '■ distance ; va- ? eiy excellent ledunin — D:in- Itigo iwar .Miu Danger on //.v ' .s fit)' ^Music— ic auyroundii! here the coarse^ i not so g'oud, gcr is to be iip-' and within (ho 'he windings of L'd with tlio rcc(:i|}t ted a knife to Ikt, ires(!iit of, bh(! iv.nl crsflf from the l0|i ruckS) and imiiu'. the [the channel prosenta very diversified prospect, [and situations perfectly pi<:airesquc. In the Ltrait they enjoyed tlw calnncst weather. Ihey were astonished to Hnd such uncommon safety so [very near Storm Bay. I the (ishes which delight in nnruflled water, Jabonnd in this channel; hence the fishermen were Ulmost universally successful. They had hardly ^^ proceeded three kilometers beyond the outlet of Ithe strtiit, when they. could no longer distinguish * its opening. The soundings increased as they ^Ivanced into the sea. They soon doubled Cape fPillar, and then shaped their course north-cast, [to !xo and explore the south-west coast of New ICaledonia. Having on the 1st of June reached the latitude lof 31^ IT'soulh, and the longitude of 154" h' [east, they saw a quantity of white and black Ispolted petrels, and a number of albatrosses, Iwith the extremity of their wings of a deep fawn icolour. On the 2d a number of flying fishes, by tl.rowfiifz; themselves headlona: on board, an- inoinwi'd that they had got into the latitudes fre- Iqueiitcd by bonitoes*. [ Some piiitadoes, and other birds, which they [saw on (he 0(h of June, induced th^m to believe [that (liev were in the neighbourhood of some jishuu!, though none was yet descried. About [io(m on the llth, they thought tliey had dis- Jcovered land to the eastward ; but after steering ■in that direction for an hour, the phantom dis- [appcarcd, and they immediately resumed their Jcourse. A nuiii-of-war bird appeared, hovering *over tlie ship, and was killed by a musquet-shot. ^This bird had, in its bill, the species of cuttle- ifish called sepia loligo. I On the IGth, about five in the morning, our [navigators enterred the torrid zone, in the longi- Itudc of Ifija east. About eight they got sight j)f the Island of Pines, at no considerable dis- tance from the south point of New Caledonia ; It appeared like a peak of tolerable height, and Ihey soon perceived that it was surrounded by ow lauds. Laigc trees are distinguishable to- wards the south-east part of the island. At five * Since tho departure of our Adtipntiircrs from New loliand, they were reduced to a very small quantity of inter, and the heat, which on the 5th, began to be very Ippresiiiive, heightened the Inconvenience of this privation, t bottle a. day only, was allowed to each hidivldual ; though icir thirst was auj^inented in proportion as they advanced Dwarib tiic torrid zone; tho wine could not be substituted in the afternoon they discovered the shores of New Caledonia to the north-west at the distance of about four myriameters, and they stood in to approach them; but they were obliged to heave to at sun-set to wait for the Esperance, whose sailing* was never equal to their?. The Espe- rance, however, joined them in the evening', about eight, and the night was io have been passed iu standing off and on; but it falling calm, the ship would not answer her helm. The south-west winds had brought them to New Ca- ledonia, though they had expected to meet with the general winds some days before they perceived this land. During the night of the ITtli, they saw a fire on the island of Pine!>, and as soon as day ap- peared, they perceived a reef of rock, which, firoiiJ the coast of New Caledonia, too^» a direc- tion towards the south. A calm detained thetn the whole morning, between these dangerous rocks and the Isle of Pines; but a fortunate, breeze sprang up', in i\\c afternoon, and carried them clear of the breakers. In the course of the night the currents had carried them nearer to the reefs, which tliey thought they had weathered. Day-light, however, shewed them all the danger of their situation: surrounded by shoals, little rooiin was left for them to ply in, Tfae^'\Jouth- east wind frt^hened, and increased the sea, which set them towards the breakers : they were in the middle of them, when the Esperance made the signal for them ; lieutenant Rossel having then the charge of the deck. The ship was instantly brought close to the wind on the starboard tack, with the intention of tacking to get out of this dangerous situation. AH httitds were called upon deck, in order to work tl^e ship so as to make her surer in stays. Rossel endeavoured several times to tack, but every attempt brought them nearer to the reef. The ship was now drifting on the rocks, where the sea, ready to swallow them up, rose to a prodigious height. There was not a possibility of letting go the anchor, as they could get no bottom with a line of fifty fathoms, though they for this beverage; the brajidy, which several preferred to wine, made the.m require an additional quantity of water ; the salt me^Uwhich they generally fed on, added to that thirst, whJiih they had no means cf allayinsr; and thcc^ttrcme acrimony introduced into their bfooii by siiinc food, greatly added to the distniss. ;i... .,^-,:. -. : .-. . . . .: .;, t •;.,..-... were 94t VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF I-A PRftOUSr. Nvcre close to (lie reef. Every one w.is now cnst- itig hie e}c oil the objects that might presoitt themselves ^'ii order to avoid an aliiiuiit inovituble death. Dcstriietioit stared them < in the tucej v'hen, by an uncxperted piece of g-oud fortune, another attempt to tuck snccccded ; and, with in- expressible Joy, they saw their ship standing away from this dangerous coa«t : a few islets appeared between the land and the cliaiu of reefs, which was nut mure tiiun a myriaipeter from shore. ; ' ' When they tacked on the, approach of niglit, tlie topman had omitted to rig in the main top- mast studding sail boom, and the mizen topnnist studding sail boom: they were both carried away at the instant they were preparing to make another board; the main topmast studding>sail boom fell uito tiie water; but the qiizeq topmast studdii)g- sail boom, by its fall', wounded three persons, among whom .was Admiral D'jplntrecasteaux himself- A columa of smoke, near the foot of a hill, a little distant from the sea-side, copvinced our adventurers that this part of the island was inha- bited. They had a view of some mountains, covered with trees to their very summit: six Hres were perceived in the vi^'inity of the coast, which annouit^ed a great concourse of savages, who had probably 'keen attracted by the signt of the ships, which contrary, winds kept almost sta- lionur}'. On the 2Sd at three in the afternoon, they were about six myrianieters from the land, when they perceived near the beach a group of twelve New Caledonians, who -gazed with astonishment at the ships so near their island. ;v Three natives formed' ajjother group, near two ilires whic|i:(lu;y had just kindled. A good glass informed them that they were entirely naked : they appeared to have no inclination to approach them. In tJie direction of the lands of New Caledo- nia, tlvey perceived several islands, surrounded by reefs, and connected to each other by shoals, and sand-banks. During the night of the 29th, the winds set them so fur to leeward, that they * At sun.set a booby of the species called pelacunus sariug, permitted itself to be caught on board. I^'his bird ventured, without fear, to settle in the main top,, hy the fiide of one of the sailors: those of this class fr^qucntl^ alight on the arm that is held out to them. Their smell cannot be very acute, the whole opening of the nostrils consisting of only two trifling slits in tho upper man- had lost sight of the northern extremity of New Caiedoniu. This islaiul presents a chain of mountains, which occupy an extent of about forfy-eight mvriameters, from south-east to norlli-wcst. >Vhen Captain Cook disrovcred it in I77'i, ho saw only its nor.th-east side. This coast is extremely darigcrcjus at all times, but is rendered still more so with the south-east winds. The small niiinher of lircs which were seen on this land, with its apparent sterility', seemed to iiidicutu that it was thinly inhabited. After having observed scverals islots, they saw a few more, which seemed to terminate this Archipelago. Their height gradually diminish- ed, in proportion to their distance from New Caledonia. The admiral informed the captain of the Esperance, that if the two ships should happen to separate, the rendezvous would beat Port Praslin, or Carteret's Harbour. Our ad- venturers were congratulating each other on having terminated this dangerous and fatiguing navigation, in order to enter into an open sea, M'hcn the men looking out at the mast-head, gave noticeof shoals and a chain of reefs, stretch- ing to the north-north-west : it being too late to < stand towards them, they kept to windward during the whole night *. About two in the afternoon, on the 1st of July one of the ship's company, named Moulin, dis- covered to the northwartl, a small low island covered with bushy trees, which was named L'Jslc ih: Moulin, Moulin's Island, from tlio name tTt' the person who had discoxered if. This island I's about a demi-myriamcter in cir- cunireremc. At four they got sight of two other small islands; as it was impossible for our ad- venturers to pass these islands before niglit, they directed their course to the south-south-east, anil soon after brought to, till the next nioniiiig. During the night they were surrounded by birds which inhabited these low islands f. Our navigators were now reduced to a very scanty allowance of water, which was a very dis- trqssing circumstance so near the line. At tdi in the morning on the Dth, they got sight of diblo of the bill. This mandible is moveable liUc that of parrots. S| + On the 7th, between nine and ten nt night, they hhil, in the west, the sight of a lunar ruiu.bow ; it dift'crcd from the solar rainbow only by its colours being less brilliant. This phcnomcnoa iji lusi^ frequent tliaa might naturally bo expected. .-.,:■... * Arsacides, VOYAGE IN SEAHCTT OF LA PEROUSE. inity of New a cliuiii ol' i>iit of about outli-cast lt» diHCOVcrcd it t side. Tliu close to each other, that, at a distance they ire frequently supposed to be but one. Bou- !;ainville Was of that opinion, when he discovcr- I them to die westward in passing- through the lannel to which he has ^iven his own uftmc. i'he Esperancc saw: no more than three of thesti, ^hough the Recherche could distinctly enume- Fate five. The mountains which form these, glands are of a moderate height, nearly covered nth large trees. Having sailed round Bougainville's Island, ley stood to the north north-cast, to go and re- onA^itre the west part of it. At tive, when ley were at a distance from its southern extre- lity, they saw a cluster formed by ten islots': (hey remarked that between them, and quite lose to the southern side, there are some breakers ifhich render the approach to them extremtely angerouB. Two canoes, in which were per- eived a great many natives, were under sai- nd seeiined to direct their course to our adven- irers; but they passed behind the islot that toA nearest to the ship, and rapidly disappeared. >n the shore of the island they perceiTe,d a group ' ten natives, and near them a canoe on the ind; but they seemed to have no inclination for lunching her in order to pay them a visit. Tight approaching, they were obliged to tack, order to gain an offing. On the 13th, between ten and eleven in the ornrng, when they were about a myriameter IV t uiijfit, thoy Imd, ^ it difl'crcd from L'ing less brilliant, might naturuUy bo. ■^ irsacides, I* A canoe, with nine Baragcs, put off from the coast, directed her courao towards our navigators. Th^y Diight to, in order to wait for them ; but they stopped ken they were about a hundred meters distance, regardless I their preiisin|( invitations to induce them to come on %tA- They put a plank in the water, freighted with Ives and nails; Jind fastened a piece of scarlet cloth to I end of a sroiul stick, to give it the appearance of a flag, Ytii. U. No. LXXU. f and a half from the coast, they thought they were in the most perfect safety, when'they' found themselves towards a shoal, which those on (he look-out had not perceived : the water was so very shallow, that they could readily dr^inghish the fishes at the bottom, and they were every moment in expectation of heariuir the ship strihe , upon a rock. Several trunks of trees fioaled alongside: on one of tlif^.se which the boats brought on board, a notch of ancient date was noticed, which demonstrated that (he iuhabit^ntj) of the neighbouring island have some very sharp instruments. Some of the hatchets, given t^em by Bougainville, may perhaps be stilt in use among them. About three in the morning of the 14th, the Espcrance made several signals, which created much alarm. They were thought to indii^ate some danger, but they were merely io apprize them thftt theybadjust got soundings in forty- one fathoms. The part of Bougainville's Tslacd which they now percdved, seemed more popu- lous than that which they had hitherto Men: finb plantations of cocoa-palms tended to con- firm oi't adventurers in this opinion. During the night of the 14th, the currents had carried them twenty miles towards the north : at ten in the morning they were a myriameter to the northward of Bouka Island, the appearance of which strongly indicated a numerous population.*^. At length, however, they succeeded in at- tracting the natives close to the ship, by throw- ing some handkerchiefs, pieces of red cibth, and empty bottles. These people so perfectly under- stood traffic, that (hey took care to signify to our Europeans their full estimate of the value of their articles of exchange. A handsome bow^ was transmitted to them hir some handkerchiefs; and they also received some arrows. As they had not seen this kind of weapon among our navigators they endeavoured to convince them of its value, by teaching them the manner of using it f. Being hoping to prevail upon the savages to come closer: but they would not take possession of these favours, till the Eu* peaas cut the line which held them at a small distance from the ship, they could not with this bait be prevailed on toap« proach. The sight of the scarlet cloth gave them infinity delight, and when they became possessed of it, they petition* cd for more with great earnestness. t One of the gunners produced a violin, on which ha fi b performed C.At (I m Being passionately fond of music> they arc much pleased >vith noisy and livdy tunes. One of the officers, who Avas a tolerable performer on the violin, struck up a tune in very quick time, 'stopping double. At first (licy lisitoped with the greatest attention ; astonisliment was depicted in all their visages, and at length their joy became excessive, when the motions of the arms, and the agitation of the whole body, were unequi- vocal marks of the most lively feeling. , Not willing to forget that the Admiral had 'expressed a wish of having a bow ; a native pro- Vi^i&L:d one in exchange for a hat : but no sooner 'lisla he got that article, than hu refused to part with the' bow. During this time four canoes were communicating with the Esperance, one of which contained forty natives: sixteen of these Ver<}' employed in conducting her; the others wfere'all warriors. This canoe, it was afterwards linderstood, had kept for a long time at a distance, and did not approach till after the natives, in the eriiairer canoes, had shewn their countrymen Several articles which they had received. ''^le'rcgularity bv which the savages on boar^ tfiis caiioe were actuated, seemed to indicate that tjhevhad a sort of naval tactics. Between two p'amlte/s placed on the sides, a warrior stood ettVt, with a bow and arrows in his hand ; some .intermediate ranks had two other warriors, and iionietimes three, with their faces turned towards lh6 stern of the canoe ; to enable them to observe ir'n the movements on that side, and to be ready fdr' hostility when retreating. These warriors seemed to enjoy the' flavour of the brandy and wine which had been given them, but were not ' hitich gratified in eating salt pork. [ The savages who visited the ship had very ex- ^ellet|t tegth, as they ate, with tl^e greatest ease, the hiiL'dest biscuit that could be offered then]. I'Voni (heir partiality in favour of nails, aiid other articles of hard ware, it seemed clear that they were acquainted with the use of iron. These savages are of the middle size, and the )pi»rforrMi'tl sovcr/il liirios; (he Kuiopcaiis pcrrcivo(I, with pleasure, tliat tlicv were not iiisensiWi- to mii.-'ic : they {if. fcrfctl many iirliclcfi in exchange, wishinfl; fo obtain (his in. •trntiuint. Thoir solicitations-, notnithstnnding, ^vei^ iin. availing; (his was tlie only (itidle (hey hnd to set (he ship's conipany.iriipcring, and they did not choose to pait with an ii>.|>lrnK4tt Avhirh promoted an eveieise so t'.ondu'civo to the liealth of seamen. A tuo liberal distribution uf favonrs to thcfrociire a bow, agreed to gire su; handkerchiefs striiied with red, for that article. The jrn was positirely agreed on, and these articles were > may hcic antliui! ud; for at twenty ire five fat bonis ^ iddcnly iiurcusc land, in oidtr u, , It was covtiridi il (li(>y fi'tvjiu'iuly 111' i jjioi'liro ihiiii. Ui , iigrc'Cil to giTi' sui . lat article. Tin; |'ri( ;ii»irli'!i \v<.'rc (li'liviTiJ r probity. Hut «Ik' their iiosscssiiin, tl. i Ay DlRriug on))' s 'C,' rofuscil. SMSm with large over-green trees : their roots, buried between the calcareous stones, found very little vegetable earth; but they grew with great vigour ou account of the great moisture of those spots. -It was charming to behold the beautiful tree known by the name of barriugtonia spcciom, attracted by the humidity, horizontally spreading its branches far out above the waters of the sea. I Various species of fruit-trees also grew on this Mslaud*. u,?.i,|r.r' Among the lai^^e ti^ees which grew on Cocoa- Enut Island, a new species of areca was seen, bvhose trunk was fhirty-six nieters in heighty and [only two-thirda of a decimeter in thickness. It neemed extraordinary that so weak a tree could {support itself at «uch an clevatitm; but they [were no longer astonished'^ when they caused one to be felled) for they fouod the wood of it so [l^xtreinely hard, that it resisted reiterated strokes [of the axe. A quantity of a mucilaginous sub- itan«}(^ under tlie form of pilh, occupied its Dentre: this pith being removed, the trunk ex- fhibited a cylinder, the Wood of which did not bexceedia centimeter in thickness. It is of a Ibeautiful black, and the frnit is of a red colour, losses knd ferns were very numerous, and grew [with extreme vigour in these moist spots f. The continual rains at Carteret's Harbour, lave Tendered some species of spiders extremely llndustriousi Several had made themselves ex- ^llent retreats in themiddle of their web; which of Bivery close'texture, in the form of a sugar- loaf, having the point raised, add'a little inclined jlowards the. south-east, that the prevailing winds nay not incommode' their little habitation. The 1' '1 irrfT7 * Nigjitpvief^pok thcmiM the 0)i(Ulle uf (licwoodsi, uhcn Ihry ciiJDVi'd tho iilcuiiiiti; view of a vast quantity o( glow- Irorms, that '^V \\\vU flight, illflriisotf a tremulous gleain. It was irt ailing for (honi. ' !' ! / ', ;. .1- "i.i ifi;;!,,';;* '. :i jtv ■ ' 11 !;iu ■ _yi, r ;i;, i ./.iii. rain runs off this sort of cone, before it can pe- netrate it. The spider, perfectly sheltered iti this mansion, only comes out occasional! v, to aeize upon the poor insects which happen tti get entangled in his ingenious nets. Nuture has been bountiful to some other species of spiders, covered with a thin skin; wliich is not only tough, but so glos.sy, thai they seem to have been decorated with the Hnest vaiuisli. Those last art! not in the least aflected with the heavy rains, to which they are continually er.posed ; and they wait patiently in the middle of their web, till some insect is betrayed into it. Among thcae spiders were discovered some whose body was terminated in a point, the arunca, acullca, and the aranca ayinoaa. Leigh'ij inland is mtich smaller than Cocoa-nut island, affording few different productions. The steep mountains of New Ireland, which sur- round Carteret's Harbour, are three times the height of those 'of Cocoa-nnt Island. Carta- ret's Harbour forms a sort of bason, where the clouds charged with water, after having cleared the high mountains of New Ireland, experience a calm which prfeverAs the air from supporting them; thence result abundant rains, which are sufficient to deter navigators from anchoring there. The greatest activity had been exerted in procuring a supply of wood and water, and on the morning of the 24lh, they made everv pre- paration for sailing. It is impossible to form an idea of the vast quatitity of rain that fell. It was, indeed, a torrent, pouring down almost in- cessantly. The harbour afforded no refresh- ments. ■■ ■ fi » "1 iA Two men, ■<»ho belonged to the ship, saw an- aJKgatop quite close tp the, befch, oo the .«outh extremity of Cotoa- iiuL Isl.iiul. Animals o^ this kind wcro not, however, thouphf fo be common li€re ; for, during their stay at this anciiora<;o, no accident hippLMied, though many 'persons frequently bathed. t Some savage had probably perished in (he midst of tiusi- rocks, as a hum.in skt-letou, almost enure, v\'a3 ob- served by our Euroueaus. . • ,,'::.^,U,. !.i' )-lr -4..: . -ill! i« !.' (tl ,i\vs\ \iA '*>: .t-.A.i ■K&v: '^M lo »ilii.' ^>i- SECTION m ill 1 !'^' VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF LA PFROUSF. SECTION VI. • «v-i«.>» • .1.. Quit Carteret's Harbour— TJic EsperoHcc loses an Analwr-^Vtmaeic tJn-ouiih S^. Georffe's Chamel~- Sce the PortUuid Island—Several Interviews mV/t the Inhahitanls of the Admirnlttf Islands- Despotism of the Chiefs— The Rapidity qf their Sailing— The Hermits' Islands— Their In- habitunts^A Water- Spout— Mw Guinea^'Pass thruiii^h rUt's Strait— liavages of tlie Scurvij— Anchor at Amboi/na. ON the 24th of July, ahout eleven in the morning, they availed thcniHelves of a light breeze from the south-east, to sail between Cocoa- nut Island and New Ireland. The currents car- ried them to the west north-west, and at noon they were a myriamcler to the west south-west of their anchoring place. The Esperance did not weigh her anchor soon enough to take ad- vantage of the breeze: it fell calm! Almost &^ ^^^^ instant she had loosed her sails : she was there- fore soon obliged to drop an anchor, and wait for a wind to extricate herself from her disagree- able situation. At four o'clock, however, she came up with the Recherche, and her Captain informed them that they had like to have been lost at the mouth of tKe harbour tbey had just quitted. Compelled by the currents to anchor 00 a bottom of coral, the cable had been cut by the rocks, when there sprang up from the south east, the. light breeze which carried them clear of the reefs. The Recherche lay to during the night, and the currents carried her into St. George's channel, with 80 much rapidity as to occasion her to drift at the rate of upwards of a derai-myriaraeter an hour. About two in the morning of the S25th, the Isle of Man bore west south-west at the distance of a demi-myriameter. At four in the afternoon they brought to, to reconnoitre Sand- wich Island the next day, but they were so drifted by the currents during the night, that at day- hreak on the 26th, they were astonished to find themselves within four hundred meters of this island*. On the 28th they continued their course to- wards the Admiralty Islands, where Commodore Hunter, according to the information of the two * Sandwich Island is of a middling height, and is clothed with trocB, New Ireland, which it opposite to Sandwich Island, presents to the view no lands of considerable clcva. tion. A few huts, under the shade of the forest of cocoa- palms, induced the Europeans to suppose that they should bare an later? icw with some of the inhabitants of Sandwich French Captains, supposed lie had perceived sonic ivestigcv of La Perouse'x imf^irtunuto expedition ; and tbcy stood to the southernmost island of this little Archipelago. Like many of the islands in the South Sea, this is guarded by reefs at no con- siderable dirftance from the shore. They saw to the south-east, a few cajioes going along between the reefs, but no attfnuptei w«rB made to come to them. They saw albo soverai.grdupii of havagcB, standing on the prominciut points < * tho cuasl, to take a survey of the ships. The Admiral dispatched an officer on board the Esperance, to consult with her Captain re- specting tin.' measures neufiviary to be puilsuud at the Admiralty IslantUi ivt consttquenoc of the in- formal ion that hiid been transmitted to them at' the Cape of Good Lio|>e. Ontbe^h, in the morning, Captain Huon waited on the Admiral, when it was decided that they should repair to tlie island that y^aa in sight, to the north-east of that which they had Just coasted.- In fact, one of the depositions which bad been transmitted to the commander, stated tliat it wm at the eastern- most island that the savages, clothed in the uniform of the French nav.y, had been seen. About noon they were at tlie distance of a niy- riameter from this island, when they perceived some natives advancing towards th6 sed-shorc. A few huts were distinguished at a distance ; among the cocoa-nut trees; and other islanders made their appearance on the south-east point. The number gradually increased as they advanced towards them. Several canoes were hauled up on the sands, and our adventurers were in ex- pectation of seeing them launch into the water to come off to them ; but the natives seemed not to shew the least disposition for approaching. As Island: but it was probably too early in tho morning for these savages to visit them, as not one of them apptared, On the morning of the 37th, they saw the Portland Islands, among which they ranged very close. They form a group *^ of seven Islots, which occupy a space of a myriuoieter ami a half in extent; they are flat, covered with large trees. the VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF LA PEROUSE. 99 n the morning for of thi'm a|ii)L'.irod, ic Portlantl Island', hey furm a group ' a myriumctcr and i with largo tiei't. the |1ie admiral wai inclined to have an interview fwidi thero, they stood on, and brought to under ^hc Ice of the island, where thev found but in- different shelter, as it is of araall extent. The lavages had assembled in crowds : some of them running along the beach, while others, looking earneslly at the ships, invited them by signs to come on shore : their shouts appeared to be ex- pressive of joy. A few of them launched a canoe, and seemed to hesitate for some time fvhcther they should advance towards their ship ; Jfut the Esperance being more to the windward, khey steered towards her. The small canoe had kn outrigger, and carried seven natives, who re- lumed on shore iniinediutely. At half past one they brought to, and a boat .^a8 dispatched from each ship with a number of articles, which were to be distributed among the iiihabitants of this small island. They observed that this was cultivated to its very summit. Difl'orent plots of ground, enclosed by palisades, Convinced the Europeans that the right of landed jaroperty is not unknown to tlio inhabitants. IThe whole of the island presents a roundish Diountuin, the foot of which is adorned with plantations of cocoa-palms, whilst the elevated kputs seemed appropriated to the culture of lible roots. The boats having gone within a hundred meters jf the coast, found no bottom with thirty-three fathoms of line; the reefs which guarded it, pre- irented them from approaching any nearer. "roMdi of the natives advanced on that side : up- .vards of one hundred and fifty of tbcm were employing their utmost etfurts to induce them to land on their island ; but the reefs presented an obstacle which they could not overcome. These lavages having thrown a few cocoa-nuts to our id venturers, were exceedingly delighted to behold vith what facility they opened them by means of hatchet *. • A native, distinguished from the rest by a dt>uble row ^f small fchfils upon his forehead, seemed invested with treat authority, lid ordered a savage to jump into the Vatcr, and take our adventurers some cocoa.nuts. The lar of swimmlhg unarmed to persons with whom he was |iac(|Oaintcd, made the poor fellow hesitate a little; but the liief, unnccnitomed to meet with any resistance to his will, ^d nor allow him time to reflect, he enforced his orders by reral blows on the belly of tJie man, who was obliged Istantly to obey. To console the poor creature, a few pts of red cloth, some nails, and a knife, were given him " the Europeans, which he received with the most extra. Vol. II. No. LXXil. These islanders, who were charmed beyond measure with the sight of the European nulls and hatchets, were not equally enamoured witU the knives. At first they would not receive them till they were shut ; but their fears gradually subsided, and they were willing to receive them either shut or open. These people often rcpeati- ed the word capelle, in asking fur the urticlos of traffic. This was supposed to be the name given by them to iron, which they preferred to any thing that could be offered to them. One of their canoes was driven by the sea, against the barge belonging to the EuropcjinH, and received some damage ; but instantly a man belonging to the latter held the canoe, that she might not receive a second stroke. One of the chiefs, mistaking his intentions, cautioned the paddlers to be* on their guard, and most of them instantly abandoned her; jumptng overboard to swim on shore to the island. The mistake, how- ever, was by this time perfectly explained, and confidence was re-established between the parties. The women kept at a little distance, under the cocoa-nut trees ; their whole cloathing consisted of a piece of mat round the waist. The men were eager to approach the boats of the Europeans, but it soon appeared that cu- riosity was not their only motive, as they exerted all their ingenuity to get possession of the pro- perty of these visitors. Impunity increased their audacity, and when they missed their aim they were not discouraged, though they were disap- pointed; but took the earliest opportunity of making a fresh attempt on some other article. One of the thieves, who had taken a knife, was detected in the fact, anrl prevented from carrying it off': his want of success did not induce him to renounce his enterprise ; nor was he a loser by having been dilatory. A flag, in which red was the predominant colour, attracted his attention, and he soon became master of it : the last act of vagant joy, as soon as he had landed, curiosity assembled all the others round him ; and every one demanded a share of the presents : some canoes were immediately launched, a great many other natives swam oif to their boats, and, in a short time, a vast concourse surrounded them. It teemed astonishing that neither the violeace of the surf nor tliat of the sea dashing against the breakers, had nut prevented them from leaving the island. Another chief, emblazoned with the same badges of distinction, was also dis'ingu^shcd by the blows which he dealt liberally out with his stick, to several of those wtlidt he honoured with las commands. thieving 100 VOYAGE IN SEARCH OK LA PEROUSE. I: :i ■' \h: «ii thiev.iig vpas not discovered till lie had got to a cok.jiderable distance from the boat^ and near landing on the inland *. The natives of this island have not a very black «k!n; their countenance is ag-recable, and not very dissimilar to that of the Europeans. Born in a fertile island, and under a clement sky, satisfac- tion seems exhibited in their features. The boats being ordered to return at four o'clock greatly aflected the natives, who earnestly entreated leave to stay on their island. The women assembled on the beach, and were as importunate in their invitations as the men had been: but orders were given, and the boats could not defer their de- parture. With regret the Europeans quitted the savages, when they were launching into the water several canoes loaded with cocoa-nuts, which they were bringing to them. The delicious juice of these fruits would have been highly useful ^n arresting the progress of the scurvy, which was beginning to make ra vu^es on board of the two sliips. At first these people seemed to manifest some symptoms of honesty, but they were not long before they displayed a very opposite inclination; for, whenever they thought they could commit thei't with impunity, they never let aa opportu- nity escape them. They grew the more expert in these practices as they grew in years, the oldest among them being the most daring and incor- Tiglble thieves. This island, which is nearly of a circular form, is about a dcmi-myriameter in length, and seems well peopled: near three hun- dred inhabitants were seen by our Europeans. On the 30t\i they stood to the northward of the Admiralty Islands: there they saw a moun-^ tainous island occupying (he centre of this group, the outlines of which are formed by several flat islots, which seem to have recently emerged from the bosom of the deep. They are, in some tlegrecj linked to each other by reefs and sand- banks. A great many cocoa palms were pcr- » A looking-glass having been given to one of these saviigeii, be viowud iiiinself in it with astoiii>hmeiit, and ■hortiy uftir broke it; imagining perhaps that it had the ctl'ecl ot' magic. t The great nnmber of i inocs wh'ich surrounded the I'lii. ropeaus prevented several (rom corxing near the ship ; but many of the paddlers jumped overboard, and swam to them with the articles of tralTic. The dispusilion of these in. iiabitants is remarkably mild, if a judgment may be formed ceived on most of the islots : a vast assembly of the natives presented themselves on the shore, and some of them advanced as far as the' adjacent reefs. The islots where no cocoa-nut trees were observed, seemed to be uninhabited. Several canoes were launched, and six which h: d just set their sails, directed their course to- wards the Europeans. They immediately brought to, in order to wait for them : so/ne of them were conducted by seven, and others by nine men, When they were within six hundred meters of the ship, the savages took in their sail, and em- ployed their paddles to get nearer. Each canoe was under the iireciicni of a chief, who stood on a platform to pronounce his orders. When these canoes had advanced about three hundred meters by paddling, they stopped, and with an exalted voice, addressed a long speech to the Europeans. His eloquence was entirely lost, but the signs he made evidently demonstrated that he was iuvitintr them to come on shore. Our adventurers endeavoured to prevail on them to come nearer the ships. They could not resist the sight of some pieces of red cloth, and, after a little consultation among them, they ven- tured to advance a little. Some nails and knives fastened to a plank, and lowered down to them, dilFuned groat joy among them, when the savage, who untied them, held them up tothe rest. These savages now presumed to come nearer to 5| the ship, but without consenting to come on board. By degrees the member of their canoes increased, and traffic was carried on with inte- grity : several oi' the natives, who had beenj^ pushed from the ship by the canoes, before ihvj had time 4o pay for the article they had pur- chased, made every effort to bring back its equi- I valent. They seduloiialy sought for the person '| to whom they were indebted, and when he was found, delivered to him the value of the goodj they had received f. ;>| The greater part of these savages had their! can! la\ Jia Ph lim ["hi >ai ind I ^ut An ^nd Bimi if t iiOM da S. »pt )ass •tye- ihe lut VCTl T ree, klan Irea of it by tht'iT conduct towards the Kurppeans ; and an air of good nttnro «as depicted in their ttilurrs. How very different are these, from the savages of a little island they had visited a few days before! it is surprising to find »u much diirerence in the manners of savage* at so short a distance from each other, and who are eqiially borderin;; on a state of nature! But it shonid be riinembereJ that tlio former had only to deal with boats, while the latter tral. ficked with ships, which j)frhaps kept them iu awe. Tlie Ti le a nc! rcs( iid »t, ellc * VOYAGE rW SEARCH OF LA PEROUSE. 101 ;st aseembly of the shore, and s the' adjacent -nut trees were d. and six which lieir course to- d lately brought 1 le of them were by nine men, dred meters of r sail, and em- Each canoe , who stood on s. When these hundred meters i fith an exalted i the Europeans, ' )ut the signs lie he was invitinf; to prevail on They could not red cloth, and, ] ihem, they ven- miis and knives: down to them, hen the savage, lothe rest. I ) come nearer to ig to come on '* of their canoes 1 oil with iiite- who had been, oes, before thry 'M they had pi>r-l| g back its equi- ' for the person' nd when he was ue of the good^i vagcs had their | eaij pppans ; and an air 'iiturrs. How very a little jslaiiU thry nrprhing to find su •a^i:i iU su shart a v. oqiially bordi'riiii; 'I'liiciubi'rcd that tlio iili> the latter traf. bciu ill awv. The ars pierced,' and difterentBhells fastened to them; rf is the interior \oht of the car, which, after having been bored, they distend so exlremply, , Jiat it hangs down lower than the shoulder, iheir hair is black and curly ; but they some- [imes redden it with an ochre mixed with oil. I Their skin is of a light black : it is sometimes jaiuted with red in different parts of the body, Ind especially the face. t Neither bows nor clubs were seen among them ; but theV have darts, from a meter and a half to wo meters long. The volcanic .stone, with jrhich these were armed, was sharp on each edge, iiul its whole length was three fourths of a de- feimeter: this agate was fixed at one of the onds |f the dart, where itwas fastened with a cord Ljovered with a species of mastic. This must be i dangerous weapon among naked people. Several of the natives had a hole bored in the .fptura of the nose^ through which they had massed a string: at the extremities of which long ■ aiye-teeth were suspended. An order issueii by the admiral had very much impeded the traffic, lut the savages had still many articles which they cere desirous of parting with. Their canoes are formed of the trunk of a ree, hollowed out, and its sides raised with flanks : they are about two thirds of a meter in freadth, and ten meters in length. Thay have In outrigger of about four meters lo.ig, which Uso extends laterally almost the same distance. &n the opposite side is another outrigger, which iocis not dip into the wateis Sw ving only to steady ; Ibe sail. The chief som^-times sits on it. The ^il is made of matting, and is square, the sides Df which are four meters in len^h : two cylin- )ricai spars, of the same dimensions, supply the place of a yard. Their paddles are broad in the llade, and have a handle about two meters lopg : savage placed near the stern, steers with his saddle. Close to a fishing place, our ttdven- irers saw seventeen canoes, which immedijitdy egao to paddle towards them. They brougtit The chief of each canoe usually made the paddlori rcsi(?n ke articles they had received from the naTigatcrs. Some- lies they employed force to oblige them to .deliver tlie resents they had received to. them. One of the paddlers Id just accepted of a piece of red serge, which hn would It part with to one of the chiefs, till the latter had com- ellcd him to do so, by giviog him a very severe drnbhinc;. * X be clouds appeared to be agitated by a whirlwiud, to, in order to wait' for them;" but, disregarding their invitations, they kept at tiie distance of a kilometer from, the ship: they therefore made sail ,agaiii,r'«teering west by south. In the; evening two canoes put off from the coast, and directed their course towards the Eu- ropeans. It was dark when they gotiwithin hail. One of the chiefs very audibly addressed them : as it was almpst calm, the adventurers endeavour- ed to attract them to their ship; but they would not venture near enough to receive their presents. Sortie of the officers imagined, that a sky-rocket would afford them pleasure, >but it was found to have a contrary effect ; for the sight c " it only terrided them, and caused them to make off with pr6(iipitation. ' At break of day on the first of August, our adventurers perceived the Hermits' Islands, dis- covered in 1781 by Don Francisco Antonio Maurelli, in the Spanish ship of war. La Princessa. Their high lands seemed, at a distltnce, to leave between them siiQ'cieiit intervals to. afford; a passage for ships; but they after- wards discovered low coasts strc^tching out into the sea; and they distinguished the reefs by which they were connected. This little Archipelago is composed of tliirteen isJots, in the midst of which lies a principal island, whose extent is about three o^yriameters. The group of the Hermits* Islands, including the reefs, is about seven my- riameterS:in circumference. At five in the afternoon of the 8tli, they were Hnder the equator, when they saw at the distance of one third of a myriamotecj a couMderable water-spout forming to the south-west. Though the air was perfectly still around them, the sea was frothyi and much agitated at the spot where the water-spout originated. A small cloud was stationary at a few decimeters above the place whence it rose. The water-s. out had the form of two very elongated cones, united at their summit; the base of one resting on the sea, that of the other was lost in a sombre cloud *. During which, collecting a vast quantity of watOr, was pouring down in torrents. If, as some natural philosophers assert, a water-spout sucked up the waters of tlie sea in a great volume, this water ought to be salt at its fall, which by no means accords with experience : a person of credit; who saw two fall ou board a ship, assured the Admiral, that they had constantly discharged fresh water. In the con- trary luppositioB) this pbeaomenon may be easily explain. ed 102 -VOYAGE IN SEARCH. OF LA PEROUSE. *; During a great part of the night of the 18th ihe Awind had roared over the lands of New Guinea, and driven a vast quantity towards this quarter. The sky seemed to announce a tempest ; but it may be necessary to remark, that the storms .-near the ' quator display a more menacing aspect than is usually realized : it was not long before very fine weather succeeded. Our adventurers saw, stretching from east to west, a fine ctiain of mountains, the most elevated of which was about fifteen hundred meters in ■perpendicular height: the lofty trees which covered them, added much to the grandeur of the landscape. On the 19th, at two kilometers from New Guinea, they sounded with a line of a hundred fathoms, without striking ground. Two fires, announced by the rising of the smokcat the foot of the large trees, were the first indications that this country was inhabited. They were now at no considerable distance from the Cape of Good Hope of New Guinea, Avhich they doubled at the distance of two kilo- meters. On the 236, they ran very close along the shores of New Guinea, intending to enter among the Moluccas, by Watson's Strait. At nine in the evening, they heard, towards the western shore, the voice of some savages, seem- ingly addressed to them : a fire appeared at the same time. On the 24th, at day-break, they ■ were close to Passage Island, and perceived on the Batanta coast, a small village ; the inhabi- tants of which seemed to view them with indif- ference. Pitt's Strait is about five myriameters in length, and one rayriameter in width. When they tried for soundings, they could not strike «d. The transparcucy of (he «ca.water was changed during the whole day of the 9th by afucuS) consistiug of very short, and Tcry stringy ilamcnts. Sharks arc numerous in these seas : sercral were taken of the species most widely difl'used (squalus carchurias.) One of these, of a^..idd ling size, astonished uur navigators with its Toracity, Though pricked by four successive hooks in less that half an hour, it persevered in following them till it suffered itself to be caught. The surface of the sea was violently agitated on the 12th, throughout a great space: Captain Hnon, imagining this tti -ght proceed from breakers, put about: but the illusion presently disappeared. ' This notion was produced by a , considerable nhoal of tishes, Mhich were rising to the surface of the waters they worVhen thviKnglish seized tluM islands in 1796, L/. annual produce was about 163/)(ili, pounds of nutmegS) and 40,000 pounds of maCe. The nutmcg.tree groMs to the siie of a pear tree, (h( leaves resembling those of a laurel, and bears fruit from the age of ten to one hundred years. '- Thi' nutmeg, whn ripe on the tree, has both a very curious and beautiful aji. pearance; it is about the size of an apricot, and nearly of a similar colour, with the tame kind of hollow mark ail round it; in .shape it i.s somewhat like a pear: when perfuctly ripe, the rind over the mark opens, and discovers theiiiiin'. of a deep red, growing over, and covering in part, Iht thin sh ill of the nutmeg which is black." Amtic Rrsiiln, 1800. j. 210.. ui ^i VOYAGE IN* SEARCH OP TA' PEROUSE. 103 an^tweniy-fjve id some 8ho. ))ricot, and nearly o( d of hollow maik all . pear: when perftftly iiddiicoTon thciiiaro, coTering In pnrt, iht ' Amtic lirgitU-', )( Araboyna, io ask permission to piit into the pglaiul. The governor, assembled his council, ^iid permitted them to anchor. They found, in ihis little island, the means of supplying their (hips, far beyond their expectations, with every ihing that was necessary for continuing their 'oyage. . A captain, in the Dutch East-India Company's ^rvice, was sent by the Governor to point out le place where our navigators were to anchor. After havi>;g made several boards, they came to at half past one in the afternoon, in twenty-seven fathoms water, the bottom muddy sand. There was then h^^t'e a Company's ship, taking in her c^rgo. of cloves. The Esperance anchored half an hour after to the north-east of the Recherche, In the road were eighteen vessels, all under Dutch colours. One of these only was a three-masted ship ,* the others were chieBy brigs and sloops. mniiyt tA ,1 I * SECTION VII. , - tatj at Amboynn—A Boy drowned from the RcclicrcJie — A Visit to the Governor — Excursions into the Interior of the Island — One of the Mituralists becomes indisposed^His. Disorder — Excellent Juice of the Sago Palm— Uses and Virtues of that Tree — Account of the Flying Lizard — 4. Dutch Sailor conceals himself in the Woods, to avoid going to Batavia — Habitations of the Mitives of Amboyna — Their Dress, %c. — Culture of the Mitmeg-Tree — Culture of the Clove-Tree — Fishing Places of the InhabitantS'^Sago Palm — Extraction of its Pith — Observations on the Island and its Inhabitants. T half an hour after three, they saluted the fort with nine guns; and the fort saluted icm with the same number. The admiral had ^vited all the officers to acconv^iarty him, at five the afternoon, to pay a visit to the governor ; it our naturalist, knowing nothing of this ar- ^ngcment, strolled about the towni He found surrounded by gardens, where the principal ilture is that of trees, which highly favour the ^dolence of man under a burning sky, by yield- tg him a profusion of delicious fruits, requiring 'itic more trouble than to gather them. Diiferent varieties of plantain trees, and many >ecic8 of orange-trees, were growing in these itful gardens: the guava, the custard- iple, and difltrent species of annona here yield ieir exquisite fruits. A few trees of the heniie lere also remarked, which rose to the height of Vir meters. The Arabian jasmin, rising among Kse charming trees, blended their sweet odour 1th so many delicious perfumes. [On returning to the town, a minister of the ntestant religion invited them to his bouse, brought them several sorts of spirituous r* Gabrii'l Abalcn, a boy belout^ing to the ship, who tvas pointed to attend on the warrant ofHccrs, disappeared in J evening of the 7th : ho had been seen on board the lole day ; but, in the CTcning, they called him scTcral fees in vain. This youth, though of a mild and temperate IVoL. II. No. LXXII. "• -V-) ■_- ... liquors; but water, perfectly limpid, just taken from the spring, was the most agreeable beverage, especially to persons who had been long reduced to a brackish element, and fed only upon salt provision. This worthy ecclesiastic was astonish- ed at having entertained them at so cheap a rate. He informed them that earthquakes were frequent at Amboyna, and that one of unusual violence hud been felt within a few years : that it had been acooinpanied by a hurricane, which continued three days; and, during all this time, the sea had exceeded its limits, and inundated the country where the town is situated*. It was very necessary for our navigators to remain on shcre, in order to recover their strength ; the Governor therefore consented to their taking lodgings in the town. When they were introduced to this exalted character, he re- ceived them in the most gracious manner ; but they were concerned at his having, on their account, encumbered himself with his full dress: he was almost suilbcatcd with heat under a very heavy black velvet coat : such a dress is extremely inconvenient near the line; but the Dutch go> disposition, liad drank enough in the course of the day, to create the i^rcutest inquietude respecting his fate. lie might have fallen overboard, and it was well known that he could not swim. .■■,<■• i." ' . Dd vernors 104 VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF LA PEROUSE. \h '■ k 'n vernors wear it because it is a prerogative of their office *. The Dutch in Amboyna are in the habit of bathing every three or four days> and at those times they carefully avoid exposing themselves to the great heat, >vhich is experienced from eleven in the morning till three in the afternoon. Our navigators made several attempts to penetrate into the middle of the large plantations of sago- palms ; but the waters, which wash the foot of these palms, often obliged them to return as they went: this tree, which is so conducive to the nourishment of man, forms a considerable part of the riches of the isla'nd. On the beach, at low water, our adventurers saw a great number of crabs, of the species called caticer vocans. This singular species of animal, one of whose claws is sometimes larger than the body, often becomes the prey of the birds. A little excursion to the south of the town, procured them a sight of the tomb of Kumphius. The simplicity of this monument reminded them of th6 simplicity of the manners of this accurate observer of nature. His tomb was surrounded by the shrub known by the name of pana fruticosum. In the morning of the 15th they went to the westward ; but the heat was so * Some rpfreshments wcro served up : the admiral wished for some good water, and poured out some which appeared to him (he clearest: but he found it saline and unpleasant. Jl was Settzer water, much Talucd by the Dutch as an agrcpuble liquor ; and costs them as much as the best Rhenish wine: but it might well have been supposed, that under a burning sky, after a lung privation of fresh meat, our ad. venturers could not have much inclination to drink salt water. The admiral next proposed to introduce the party to the members of the couuril: thoy approved of his proposal, and were all respectfully recei.^-. The fears of our na« vigators, respecting the lad who had disa|)pi>ared three diiys before, were but two well founded ; at half past two in the afternoon of the 10th, he was discovered beginning to float near the ship. This young man was much regretted l)y all the ship's company; and several exclaimed ogainstthc inattention of those who, having brought him up in hjs infancy, had not caused him to learn to swim. Itis devoutly to be wished that this event may serve as an example to others, " I have seen with astonishment," says the nar- rator of this voyoge, " that many seamen could not swim." The west end of the town where our navigators resided, is the quarter principally inhabited by the Chinese : very few of the natives of the island live in it, and only one Dutchman. The other Dutchmen arc situated about the centre of the town, or towards tlie cast side of it. The company's garden contains nothing remarkable but a very conTenienl batb; wlicr« tlie Governor went regularly every oppressive about noim, that they found it neccs< sary to return to their lodging. Having for some time followed the banks of a small river, which discharges itself in the roadstead not far from the town, they were re- turning loaded with fine plants, when, on the approach of night, they met with some natives who had been successful in fishing, and were preparing to dress their fish. They saw them kindle a fire by means of two pieces of bamboo, rubbed one against the other f . On the 25th Citizen Riche, and another, went up the river called Balfu Ganton, which dis- charges its waters into the roadstead of the town. They proposed to ascend this river as high as possible, and to follow its banks as closely as they could ; but their steepness induced them tu cross the water, which seldom exceeded a dcmi- meter in depth. They had not proceeded many ^ yards, when they met a Dutch sailor, who had deserted from a large ship laden with cloves, which was destined to sail for Batavia. Tlie fear of falling a victim to the contagious disorder, so fatal to Europeans, operated so powerfully on this poor man, that he resolved to conceal him- self in the woods till the ship bad sailed. They sincerely pitied his lot, little supposing that the three or four days: another bath near h, i* appropr, td to the use of the woqicn. + Among the number^ of lizards, engaged in the pursti, of insects, the activity of that which is called the fly in;' lizard, is admirable. During the greatest heat of the day,, this pretty animal was scon darting with rapidity from braiirh to branch, extending two membranes, like wings, by nitMni of which it occasionally supports itself in the air. As nature has not furnished it with muscles necessary for Uappin,- such wings, it can only counteract them by moderating tho rapidity of its fall. Wisliing to out some branches of different plants, rulti. vatal in a garden belonging to one of the natives of ilio Island, our naturalist was disstiaded from it by one of th; party, by representing tliat he would expose himsilf to ; danger; ho pointed to u small shed, and several times re peatcd, with an air of respect miuglud with fear, the wnri matai; when their interpreter informed them that by tliii term, which signifies a dead body, they meant to convc) ai idea of the former possessor of this garden, who had him buried under the shed that they beheld. These Inhabil.ini! bt'lievc that the soul of the deceased wanders roand thcii places, to protect the produce of them for the present pro. prietor ; and that any other person who shonid posMsi himself of if, would die within the year. This opinion is so generally difl"used and acknowledged, that one iiuiirt seldom ventures to touch the property of another: th« malai is therefore a bugbear which generally secures llit crop to the legal possessor! VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF LA PEROUSE. 10$ ■'<:! )und it iiecc3« the banks of itself in the they vrcre re- vrhen, on tlie some natives ng, and were hey saw them es of bamboo, another, went m, which dis- d of the town. ,'er as high as as closely na dticed them tu j|^, cecded a demi- ' roceeded many lilor, who had n with cloves, Batavia. Tiie igious disorder, powerfully on [o conceal hitn> I sailed. Thoj posing that the it, ii appropr. aged in the pur^iii m called the fljinjV !St heat of the day,. ipidity from brunch ,kc wiii^s, by mem I the air. As niiture " cssary for Uapijin- I by moderating the 'erant plants, rulti. the natives of tin in it by one of th; cxpoiic himself ii , d «e»eral times re. with fear, the w(ui 1 them that by llii) meant to convoy ai den, who had hton These inhablt.iiits vanders ronnd ttui; for the present pro. who should jJOSMi! ir. This opinion ii cd, that oni> aatiu ty of anotlirr: tht ^uncrally secures tin . abodi ,bode which he so much dreadetl, was reserved or the termination of their expedition. Having expeditiously exhausted all their pro- isions, they entertained hopes of purchasing from the natives, a sufficient supply for the re- ainder of the day. It was three o'clock in the fternoon when they took the liberty of calling t a small house near the bank of the river ; but ,e mistress of this habitation assured them that ie had not what they wanted. They protested ey would pay her liberally for whatever she ould furnish. After a little conversation be- een the parties, it appeared in the sequel, that .ese peaceable natives are not always satisfied ith the proceedings of the Europeans, who are eir masters in the island ; and had frequently en deceived by relying on their promises. At ngth, some glasses of arrack, and a few articles f hardware, procured them her confidence. They were invited to sit down under the shed, , rmed by a continuation of the roof of the kouse. Some cray-fishes, caught in the stream already mentioned, were set before them in pro- sion. Sweet potatoes and yams were roasted r them, and their beverage was a slightly fer- ented wine of the sago-palm. The young msel, who had the trouble of preparing this past, had a captivating face, and an engaging rson : an ingenious air added to the interest le had inspired. Having brought them some uit, she retreated, and sat down behind her other, occasionally casting some glance's at the w guests, to satisfy her curiosity. They found the purest gratification in this little ast: the construction of their houses is adapt- to the fineness of the climate, and their light- ness requires no digging below the rocks for a " undation. As they never experience a severe ason, the walls are so constructed as to leave free passage for the air : they consist of pa- ades, usually formed of the stems of bamboo, most adjoining to each other. It appeared extraordinary that these inhabi- ts, who are so fond of ease, lie on a sort of ice of sticks, placed at the distance of a demi- imeter from each other. This bed was very ird, though it was covered with mats ; but sc who reposed on them enjoyed the freshness From the mildness of the climate, the inhabitants rc> |ire little rluathini; : a pair of drawers, descending no rcr thi.n the middle of the thigh, or a piece of blue cloth bteucd i'o;|ud tlic loius; is the only cioathing of the mcu of the air, which circulated freely through th« interstices. It was raised a dcmi-meter above the ground; and under it were deposited a part of the household utensils ; consisting of three ear- then pots, intended for dressing their food ; a few bottles, which they had purchased from Eu- ropeans; and some spoons, formed from the large shells that are common in Amboyna. Under this bed was also deposited a pick-axc, and a large knife, partaking of the shape of a butcher's cleaver *. The presents which our adventurers liberally bestowed excited the gratitude of these people : the young girl, after a short absence, returned to oflfer, them some fragrant flowers. A thread was necessary to tie them into nosegays, which was procured from the bastard aloe, called agave vivipara. The master of the house went im- mediately and cut a branch of this plant, and, after scraping off its pulp, he obtained from it a fascicle of threads its long as the leaf, and as strong as those of the best hemp. On their return they met a slave, whose decre- pitude excited their curiosity. They could get no satisfactory information from Uim respecting his age : he was totally ignorant of the matter. How strange it appeared that a man should not remember the number of years he had passed in slavery ! On the 27th one of our adventurers went up the roadstead in a canoe, with a double outrigger. Some of the sportsmen, proceeding qiiickly io the eastward of the town, joined the party. They followed the right hand shore of tlic road, at a small distance from the coast : the water was so limpid that they could see at the depth of three or four fathoms, a white bottom composed of madrepora;, on which they distinguished a species of ray, remarkable for large circular spots of a light azure blue, and several other fishes of very brilliant colours. Among other paddlers, they had a New Guinea man, who had the dexterity to strike several. Having got about three kilometers from the town, they admired the charming situation of a country-house belonging to the governor, at the foot of the mountains, the chain of which ter- minates at no great dist .icc from the roadstead. employed in agriculture. The dress of the •women is more expensive : the wear a sort of chemise of the same kind of cloth, reaching to the middle of the leg, which is fastened by a girdle round their waist. 10(f VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF LA PF.ROUSE. i t A small house, inhabited by natives, and sur- rounded by clove and plantain trees, added beauty to the landscape. After having passed some fishing places, they landed about a my- riameter fronJ the town, near a house, the master of which gave them as many cocoa-nuts as they desired. They had witli them some seamen, who, finding this liquor too sweet, mixed a sufficient quantity of brandy with it, and they had the pleasure to observe that the host did not disap- prove of this l)everage *. Curiosity induced one of our adventurers to visit a house situated near the sea-shore. He there found an old. man, who, contrary to the custom of these islanders, wore a long beard : he was employed in cooking some whelks, which he had just picked up at low water, at the foot of the mangroves near his' habitation. This vene- rable personage, instead of being surprised at his visit, invited him to partake of his repast. The consort of this aged native joined him soon after ; whose youth would have astonished him, had he not been aware that these islanders place their happiness in marrying very young girls. Their countenance assumes great animation, when they speak of a young female, and make horrible grimaces, and distortions of face, when they talk of an old woman. Almost the whole of the 28lh was employed in preparing and describing the specimens col- lected before. Our naturalist found in an excur- sion the pretty lizard called lacerta amboynensis ; he observed that it changed its colour like the cameleon; its most usual colour was green, and it frequently turned to a dark brown. Though this lizard moves rapidly, it was caught without difficulty; as it sud'cred itself to be approached 80 near as to expose the extremity of its long tail to the eagerness of its pursuers. One of our navigators walked to the sea-side, * The manner in which the natives of this country pro< CTire fiiT, \% well infiticd to notico: it is not so commodious IS a. good flint ami steel, but they ran find, almost crery where, the siibslanru uhich produces it ; for a bit of bam. Loo is all that is required. They split into two equal parts, a pieie of bamboo a demi-nicter long: iu one of these par" ■ cy make a longitudinal slit, and shape the other to a Si.-. |) edge, leaving it four centimeters in width. They put some of the scrapings of the same wood in the hollow, and underneath the slit^ of the largest piece, which they place in a horizontal position, which the convex part upper, most; they then introduce the other piece into the middle of the slit, having made a notch to receive it, and pressing in the evening, to examine the marine produc- tions there to be met with ; and he prosecuted these researches till tiark. He observed sonit- fishermen, in their canoes not far from the shore, who were availing themselves of the darkness ot the night to attract tlie fish, by means of fires lighted near the surface of the water. One (i| the fishermen was employed iri keeping the fiic in a flourishing condition, while the others wen occupied in accumulating the fish in their nois, attracted from a great distance by this da/zlin r light: these islanders, upon this occasion, proved themselves very dexterous fisher.nenf. One of the naturalists fouml iu the garden^ cultivated by the natives, a few iiutnieg-lrtos, Hk largest of which did not exceed seven meters ii, height, nor two thirds of a decimeter in lhickn(> - Plenty of fruit were (hen observed «)n them. The nutmeg delights in the shade of the \axi, hu clogcly fixed as to prevent from t'Si-;i|)iitg. Tliis reservoir presented a vast tity uf tliCEc iiq'iatiridliubit.tnis for their pursuers. Not (iie hiiiRan race aOciided tticin, but titiruns and kin^. n wer« ficipieiit viHifois, The presence of our ad. 01,. n. No, LWUl. complttion of his education. The coolness of the atmosphere at that time permitted dancing ; the ball was already begun, and several cotillions had been formtd in the grand saloon, in which his EAcellency had received them, and the Ad- miral D'Entrecasteaux, at the first visit they paid him. The orchestra consisted of four black slaves who played the viohn, and of another who played the bass. The ball was followed by a splendid entertainment, which was exhibited on the same scene. From the nuud)er of guests assembled about nine o'clock, ihe supper party was expected to be nunterous ; but tlie majority of the company were iudiflerent about dancing, and did not tnako their appearance till towards ten. Ciicer- fulness presided at this repast, and the ball was not concluded till sun-rise. Our navigators were surprised, at this enter- tainment, not to find M. Stramfer, a minister of the Protestant religion, from whom they had re- ceived the greatest civility and attention : but they soon obtained information that he had lately incurred the displeasure of the governor; be- cause, after having for several years assiduously attended the education of his children, this poor clergyman had thought proper to solicit pay- ment for his services. His Excellency more than intimated (hat the honour of educating the Go- vernor's children, was an ample compensation: and, if he expected more, he would find himself mistaken. The island of Amboyna, named Avihou by the natives, was then the first of the Dutch govern- ments in India, aftei- the general government of Balavia. The road of Amboyna forms a channel about two niyriaiu.ters long, and two thirds of a myriameter in hroadth. "in many places, it* shores aiford good anchorage : in some, how- ever, there is a bottom of coral. Towards the middle, the d«'pth of water is too deep for an- choring. The island of Atnboyna is divided into several districts, which in many places forms so many villages, called in/.i^rccs, the command of each venturers oreasioned a few of tlietii to llyawav; but «eve.ral others rcmainid witli their long daws deeply buried in the water, patiently waiting for a favourable oiipordinity of seizing on them. Pcrchetl on the bamboo which constitutes the iiiclosurc, many of these birds were seen darling, from time to time, on (he unwary finny prey, and selecting then for a repast. . E e nygree 108 VOYAGK IN' SEARCH OF LA PEROURF. nygtee in given to a native, and with it the title ot" Orankcti/c. This man, to whom the pohce of this small canton is cunBded, is responsihlc to tlMc Dutch government; to which he applies in cases of importance. The Dutch East India Companyj on investing" a person with this au- thority, presents him with a silver hilted sword. The chiefs are clothed in the European manner ; and all in hlack. They wear a cocked hat, sharply pointed at the corners, which are very low: shoes are added to this ollicial dress, which are onlj worn when they arc obliged to appear in public, or in the presence of the Dutch chiefs. Orankaxjc is formed of two Malay words, oran kni/a, w}ii(l), 1ran?lated literally, signiiy riclt inaii. The inhabitants of Aniboyna spc.ik llir Malay language : it is very soft, and has some analogy with the language of the inhahitanis of the South Sea. The use of betel has been r- o(s, and a great number of trees, furnish them almost w ithout culture, an abundant subsistence; nature seeming inclined to compensate nun fus the indolence to which she seems to have con- denined him ur.dcr so burning a sky *. The frequency of earthquakes jiud hurricanes | here, occasions a prderenceto be given to woodciij houses. Hardly any but the public buildina are consJructed oi' stone. In tem|)estuous tii!i(s,| the inhabitants are obliged to quit their dwell- ' ings, and retreat to litUe huts slightly erected, where tlicv are in greater safety than the ma.viv houses, wiiich provoke an overthrow by tlie ob- stinacy of their resistance f. Tli()ii,'.>,h these people are accustomed to gi\, up almost every lliiiig tlicv possess in the Imui;. pc!ii!s, tl'.ere isoiie, wliidi they are very little (li.. posed (o rrsigi). Jc;i lousy reigns so (riumphaiilli among tlionr, «l);it it would be extremely di'ii- ' established from time immemorial among those { gerou.i to attempt to hold anv improper con\ people : they take some young leaves of the pepper tree, and having covered them with a little pure liaic, made of shells, and newly slacked, they chew tlieni with the cashew-uut. These islanders, howe\er, do not content them- selves with chewing betel ; they procure from Molucca an extract of bitter plants, known by the name of gambcy, which they also employ in mastication. The marshy places here are devoted to the culture of the sago-tree, which i'urnishes the in- habitants with a vcrv sahitary food. This govcniineut, attentive only to its own m- terest, stilka among these people all the energy of industry, almost forcing them to abandon every otijer species of culture for that of clove and nulrneg-trecs. The Dutch limit the culti- Tation of spices, that it may not too much exceed the ordmary consumption. Plenty of farinaceous * The (/IiiiK'PC are almost Uw only fori'igiicrs whom the Dutch permit to reside in Amboyna ; but they are obliged to got iialur.ilized, which deprives (htm of the privilege of returning again lo China. They ari~ permitted to navigate in llie Mohifcis; and they can procure, at i\r.icassar and Jiatavia, wliere tlicshi|)s from Chinaarc admitted, the iiur- chandiico whii'h tlicsc vessels bring from that country. They are all engaged in trade; some of them having jjurcliascd at an extravagant |)rice, the exclusive ])rivilege of vendin;; (.■articular articles; and they much more than indemnify themselves, by manifesting no scruples of conscience in the jjricc they demund for such articles'. They emploj' every art to get r.iom'y, without considering how much their re- \)ulation sutlers by such proceedings: in this respect they itavu loiit cvcr^ .spark of sensibility. Some Jews, who have siiiioii v.illi their women: no fear of punishnic; would deter them from pursuing the most violin emotions of revenge. Among the Dutch the men have Europea, clothes for their dress of ceremony. Those wlioilj wear a wig, deliver it into the hands of one o',| their servants, and then put on a large cap of/ very tine white lirsen. The European woiiiinl wear a petticoat, which almost touches tl. | ground, and a gown like a chemise, open iii| front, which falls no lower than the |i(Htico;ii| and is drawn in by a sasli ; their hair is rnlkc* spirally behind the head, ami conlined by l\\i| large pins which cross each other. The woniti'; ann)ng the natives, who rciiile in the town, woa| dresses of the same f<)rm, but generally blacli^ The women in the country, give a preference lop blue. The female slave, instead of a gowii wear a sort of shift, which is open in front obtained a ^rant from tlie Dutch Kast India Compam remain in tin- island, enter into competition « itii th.ii tradi'; but tluy are not sucieKst'ul liv.ils ; the C'liinoe in many advaiilunts over tliem, fioai tlieir number and ii. connections. ! The Chinese, as may reasonably be supposcif, !.:;i\ piU'in!:!. A tew natives of the ii-land, who have ir^:r:i the riJi^iou iutri)dueed by the Arabs and the iMoiirs, n.i^ a mos(pie. The IJutth have been more sui\csbfiil in ii,.il,l proselytes to tlieir riligion, in tiiu environs of the piimi . eslahllsliinent. 'I'he rod of iron, with which tiiey :: r, ; tlit;:ii' niiser.ible people, so assimilates them t() sl.ives, i'- is not astonishing to liud among tiieni man} of tl.e t which proccud fjcuiu this statu >liii Company ii|ictJlii)n «itli lliciii imIs ; tin- C.'liiiu'so iiT lu'if lunubi-r iiiul iL y In; s^ll)^)^)^(•l^, !...*- •'I , \^li() have i.r^.-iTii s iuul (he Mi>')r:s Im ri- siKv'Ci'Sriil i'l ii'-i'iM- vicijiis of the i)iinci,;j i(h wli'nh they Kowi' S tlll'in t(> sl.lVC!!, tlui! lu'iii many of tlic vua ,radatiuii of luau. ■ thJ fhat of the free women. The free men wear ^licir hair turned up with a comb. The slaves lie a handkerchief round their head. The only spirituous liquor they could procure was arrack, of which they purchased several casks. Some navigators are too liberal in their commendations of this liquor : it is even inferior to brandy of a middling quality. SECTION VIII. pcpnrturc from Amhoijna—IichoMdifiTcnt Inlands— Xavigni ion along the Coast of M'xc IloUand ^ — Oealii of the Smith of ike Recherche— Anchor in Lei^rand's Jiai/~The Espcrancc loses Txvo I J ran Tillers — V^arious Excursions in the nclglihouring Counlnj — Riche loses himself Txco Days I in the Woods— Sail from Legrand's Jiciij to range along the Shore — Want of Water obliges them to quit the Coast — Arrival at Cape Dicmcn. ', ■ , ' , ■ 'IlILST tliey were wailing for a fair wind to sail from Amboyna, a light breeze Iprang up early in the morning of the I4tli of October, from the south-easft : they weighed Anchor immediately, and by eleven o'clock they terc at, the .outlet of the roadstead. The Ad- jiiral had granted permission to the ships' com- panies to take on board for themselves, hogs and )oultry; in consequence of which every part of Jhe ships was encumbered with them. INIost of [hem were placed between the decks ; and they irere the more offensive, as the noxious odour ?hich they diffused was greatly augmented by lie heat of the climate. Our adventurers were again witnesses of a Phenomenon which never fails to terrify naviga- lors, as in the night it creates an idea of breakers. iiarJy in the morning of the IDth, when the air I'as hardly agitated, they perceived the sea fo*m- jg at a distance ; some waves, imjielled w ith jrce, succeeded each other, and rciuhed them a short time: a strong rippling, oce.isioned the sea having received an impulse, diD'ercnt that given it by the wind which had blown luring the night, succeeded to tliis motion of the jaters. The cause seemed to depend on the tides |hich run between the lauds, where the currents bquire a rapidity, in proportion to the contine- ent which the waves of the seu there experience. \ luinibcv of n Imlcs rt'iioati'dly siirrouiidcd (heir sliips, jutiiit; out w-alir on thiir vorj docks. Hi-iwoeii four and 1 in the morning of the 'iOlh, thoy ptTcvivt'd by (lie li^lit jthe stars, (he island of Savu : and wore only two kilo- Iters from the eoast. The island of Savu [iroscnls an en- inliug prospect, being intersootoil with severul very line Us; t!ie ji;entle dcclivitiuk uf which luubC atTord the iiative» UTOurablu soil. They got sight of Kisser Island at nine in the morning, bearing from south to east by south. A cloudy sky did not permit them, tilffoiir in the altenioon, to discover the northern coast of Timor, from which they were only at the dis- tance of a myria(neter: some lot'ty mountains reared their heads above the clouds, on which fires were kindled at night, at diiferent hcighlsi. To our adventurers, these fires answered the purposes of ho many light-hou-ses, serving- iff direct ihem along tlie roast. At seven in the morning of the 23(1, thoy were a diMui-uiyriameter from a settlement belonging to the Portuguese, on the coast of Timor, which is called Laphao. A canoe, with a double out- rigger, immediately came and recomuutered the ships, to which she approached very near, but returned towards the west without having spoken to them. Calms being frequent along tbe coast of Timor, they hauled off from it on the 25tli, and directed their course to the westward *. It was not quite half past two o'clock in the morning of the (ith, when they stood on to the east-south-east: and, iu soon as day-light ap- peared, the Esperance niiule the signal for land in the north-east quarter, at tlie distance of three muianu'ters ; it was the western extremity of the south-west eoast of New Holland, discovered by Leuw in in the year l(it)2 f . On (he .'ith of Doeemhor, the sii;lit of iievcral .\11il3. and other birds, which -eldoin quit (he siiore, indka(od the provimity of land. The wind blow (oc; stroiii,^ at west- south-west, to permit them to stainl diretdy id for it. i In the moriiir,;:; (he smith of (he Hecherche was found dead in his bed. The day befuru he had b.'.n prcfeut at an entertainmont, v;!iioh had formi'rty been celebrated !)v' (ho French guaucrs with scrniuilous exactness; tb^'y ii«.d'lon« bCMl no VOYAGE IN SEARCH OF LA PEROUSR. About noon on the 8tli, they observed inland lo (be norUiward, a very loi'ty mountain, insu- lated in (lie midst of a vast plain of sand, pro- ducinjj a pidiiresque eftVct, about five myiia- uicters distttiii from tbc coast. Its rugged points were diiitiug-uiijbcd througbout tiie wbole extent of (be mountuin, wbicb stciiidd to stretcb a my- riamclcr and ii balf from east to west. As tbey |md not any iiidicalion of inbabitants, since f sinull canoes attended them, 'i'hey brought only two .cry in- dill'ercnt skins, and a few lish, which Captain Portlock bought, and made their chief, named Shee-na-wau, a hiiiul- fomc present: he was, the captain uinler^lood, cliicf uf thi! most powerful tribe in the Sound. These people ivirc audacious thieves; for even the little boys were possessed of small hooked sticks for the puipogeof pickiug pockets: about six o'clock these shameless pilferers quitted them, and went out of the harbour. The Quocn Charlultc's boat was then about two miles without the harbour, with a fishing party, and the Indians hastened to join her. Fearing thosf A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLll> 223 On enquiry, it appeared that Captain Dixon's neople had no fire-arms in the boat ; which was f unfortunate circumstance, as the bare sight of niusquet will deter the Indians from attempting kiiv violence. Every thing being ready for sea, they wcigh- b anchor at "day-light on the l-ith, and with a |j(rlit breeze from the north-east, went out of % harbour; and after getting out of the bay, Uuled up towards Prince William's Sound. U| the morning they had light variable winds ; but at tiiree in the afternoon, a fine breeze came L with which they stood over for Hinchinbroke no'vc, At six o'clock Captain Portlock sent his iliale-boat on board for Captain Dixon; and as I mod opportunity now stemed to present itself (f getting out of the Sound, they determined nn eparating, and for each ship to adopt the plan jlrcady mentioned. Captain Dixon soon afterwards returned on loard, and the two captains took leave of each Lbcr: the Queen Charlotte shaped her course (ut of the Sound, and Captain Purtlock bent his et Hinrhinbrokc Cove. At six the next niorn- n, a fine breeze sprung up from the south- pntli-west, with which they ran up; and seeing point in an arm of the cove, that promised Led shelter round it. Captain Portlock sent the Ihale-boat to examine and sound the place ; and Jbllowing with the ship, he soon perceived there Las a fine harbour round the point; he therefore jtood in, and anchored in seven fathoms water, (veraniuddy bottom. Tbougli their situation was an eligible one, papta'i. *ortlock discovered, by sounding around Jie sh., . .^hat they could hhu being always ready armed ; jsdliaviiig directions %vith his mate to follow in tlio yaul, li>U uitt rapidly towards theni! No sooner had the In. N H'cii the bout round (he point, tl'in tt.<7 took to llui„n. No. LXXXIi. a very dreary appearance, being deeply covered with snow quite down to high water mark : no space presented itself to walk in but the beach, after the tide had fallen. Two fresh-water rivu- lets were observed at the head of the harbour, which had the appearance of aflording plenty of salmon at a proper season. The articles they had to barter with, not being hold in jg.eat estimation, the captain resolved to dispatch the whale-boat and yaul, under the di- rection of Mr. Cressleman and Mr. Bi yant, on board the Nootka, to procure of Captain Meares si>nie trading uiiiclcs which he wanted, and which he knew that gentleman could spare. In the morning they had fresh gales from the eastward, but the weather being more moderate about noon, the captain sent the boats off to proceed up the Sound. Next morning several canoes brought a trading jiarty aloug-side, having with them thirteen gooti sea-otter skins, and a few very indifl^ereiit ones. The harbour affording very fine crabs and muscles, a considerable quantity of each were coMected. On the 25th the whale boat returnied from the Sound: they had parted with the yaul off the nt>rth point of the bay. Mr. Cressleman brought the articles captain Portlock had sent for to the Nootka. except a compass ; the other things which had been requested. Captain Meares promised to deliver on his joining Captain Port- lock at Cape Hinchinbroke, which he engaged to accomplish as soon as possible. On the 26th they had a very heavy gale from the eastward : at six in the evening, the gale in- creasing to a violent degree, with constant rain and sleet, the top-gallant masts were got down upon deck, and the top-masts stuck close to the rigging. From this time to the 80th, the weather was so strong, that thoir operations on shore were considerably retarded. During this inter- val, only three cunoes came along-side, with cod and haliuut, sufficient fcr a day's support of the ship's company *. Being at Garden Island on the 9th, Captain _ PortlocTc their paddles, and went oil" as expeditionsly as (hey v,er9 able. The captain rowed out and joined the Charlotte's boat, and soon perceired that the Indians had (aken all their fishing lines, and were forcing their anchor out of the bout at (ho very niomrnt that be hove in sight. , * On the 16th of June the we.ither being fine, the captain, 1 1W;' ^^:i .* ,ui'f ',*•-:*. . :.r| the boatswain, with four of tho pcupl 3 L went to dig a spot of ii'2^ A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Portlock saw th6 Noolka turning in towards the port, and dispatcliod ihc whale-boat and yaul to her assistance. At seven o'clock she anchored just without the King George. Some Indians coming into the bay Ihe next day, seemed rather shy on seeing the Noolka, which might probably have been occasioned from their having tired at some of the natives before they quitted Suther- land's Cove, and wounded one of them. Captain Mearcs went on board the King George, .to re- quest his assistance, which was readily complied with. On the 1 1th the long boat returned from Cook's River, having met witTi tolerable success; Messrs. Hay ward and Hill assuring Captain Port lock that more business might be transacted in another trip. As soon as the boat was cleared, she was ordered to be fitted out wirh provisions, and an assortment of trading articles, for a seoDnd ex- pedition. The seamen and artificers were occupied in various employments for the Nootka, till the ir)th, when a strong gale came on, witli violent gusts of wind, and heavy rain. The weather becoming moderate on the 16th, the people re- sumed tlieir various employments, and by the J7tL the Nootka was in t contiition fit for sea. For some time the weather had been cjtrcmely wet, and ha'.i much injured the health of many of the seamen; several of whom were ill offerers, and violent colds. The Nootka being ready for sailing. Captain Portlock sent his whale-boat on the 1 9th, to assist them in getting under way, and at one she stood out of the cove: their spruce beer, being nov in excellent order, v*;as dailv served out to the ship's company ; and the sick people received considerable benefit from it. The surrounding country now wore a plca- ef ground for a i;arilcn, am » kuuII island near thi entrance of the cuve, and whicli be named Gardra Inland. Wbcu the grouqd was ready, a Tariety of ditfercnt sorts of seed were sown in it ; as cabbage, onion, radish, savoy, celery, and many other culinary articles. On the 7th a canoe, with five Indians, cauMt alon^-sidc, from whom tho captain bought two sea-otter skins, and a considerable quantity of fine cod. At ten in the crcning the whaicboat and yaul relnmod from their expedition, with some very good fttcins, which they had purchased of a chief named Shceoaawa. Theeap. tain intended them for h longer trip, but they unluckily got into a large flat bay, where the boats grnnnded, and, before they could extricate themselyes, the tide ebbed, and left then dry for about two miles round. Sltccnaawa, and sing aspect; tlie rains had melted most of the snow, and every thins; seemed to indicate tbj approach of summer. The surgeon, and manv who had lately b;eu his patients, walked sh(ire, on the liOlh, an-,! gathered a quantityofl water-cresses, which giew oi: the margin of HiJ I frosh-wafer rivuk-is. Plenty of flounders Wf,„ i caught in thesi; streams with hook and Wi^'. ' these, with excellent crabs, which were abui^l dant, proved an admirable substitute for I provisions. In (Ishing for flounders, several codl I and halibut were taiven ; which induced the cap. ! tain to send the canoe some distance into thebav I to try for them; the canoe ret\irne(l, laden witb halib"' , vi cod of veiy excellent quality. In the afternoo'.i they were viiited by an In. dian party, bringing with them some good sea- otter skins. The\' pointed towards the soiilh. west, signifying tiiat plenty of good furs tni4j be procured from that quarter. This informa- tion occasioned the captain to <«end the bonis on another exneiiftion ; and on the '!i4th he dispatcl. ed the whale-boat and yaul on a trip to (lie south-west part of the Sound, with provisiom for a month, and a regular assortment to cnsuttl succcsu in trade. Such of the ship's company u could be spared, were now indulged with to recreate themselves on shore : Sonte of jbi ascended the highest hills in uKi(i«ii kusalrmdy been noticed) had never appeared iu the harbour aft«;r his dcpre. (kliuus in the boatfi; but sonic of liiii people brought our iufi|;ators a few aea-ottcr skins, which they hud procured ky plunder or barter. i They daily caught iiu-go quantities of laJmoii, but the Ueathcr not permitting them to be cured on board, captain left three of his tribe on board, fully to con- vince the captain that he intended oi harm. Early the next morniiig the old chief ciuric a'^uifj on board, and brought the two Europenn. uUii him. Hostages being then formally exchanged, the captain made the old man and his compa- nions some inconsiderable presents, and they all went to shore, perfectly satisfied with the atten- tion that had been shewn (liein. These Indianc lodged in temporary luits, com- posed only of a few sticks, and a little bark : their j)rii»cipal food was fish, but by way of va- riety th"/ fed OT the inner rind of the pine-bark rt, to signify their sorrow ; no othn method seeming to have been ad(>pted as expressive of their lamentations, The legs of the men are generally ill-shaped, which may be rationally attributed to their con- stantly sitting in one position in their canoes. They are not destitute of pride or vanity, for they often paint (he face and hands, cause their cars and noses to be bored, and the under-lip slit, An A VOYAtiP KOUMD THF, WORTn. «27 Anornanwnt made of boneorrrory, is hung in the hole of the nose to decorate it, and from the ears beuds are usually pending, which extend almost to their shotilders. The slit in tlie lip is also ornamented with bone or ivory, fitted witji holes, which arc sometimes embellished with bends reaching to the chin. These holes in the li» :ire sometimes as large as the mouth, and have a very disgusting app(;arancc. liut with atl t'his iiiiao-inary finery, they are extremely filthy in their persons, and are frequently covered witli vermin, which in times of scarcity, are frequent- jytaken as food. Captain Portlock says, " I have seen them pick and vat to the number of a dozen or more; and thoy are not very small*." During the intercourse of our Europeans with these people, tlu\v became less addicted to thiev- ii)<', from Captain Pdrtlock's sometimes appear- jflw a little angry witu them, and faking pains to shew them the imj)ropriety of their conduct. Upon the whole tlicy srcm to be a good kind of people, and could a settlement of sufficient Istrentjth be estxiblislied, they would probably be an industrious sot of people, in hunting and pro- curing sea-otter, and other skins for sale. The [weaker tribes arc frequently plundered by the stronger, and often prevented from hunting, which would not be tbe case Were a proper set- tlement established; for that woald ^ive protec- Ition to the whole inhabitants of this Sound f. The country round it, after the snow leaves it [about the middle of June, is pleasant enough: kefou that period, the weather is at times, very I fine and pleasant, and at other times exceedingly . — ^--1^ — * Their cloathinf; consists M'holly uf thutikiiis oi animals jiuJ l)irds. Tlioy are very friondly ; anil rumarkably teiidur laiiJ allectioiutc to their women and children; but if the Itot inipropiT treatment is practised to tlieir women, tlieir |i(idi!;natii)n is ^reat. Thieving is a prcTailini; propensity Itoiung them; a vice by no means peculiar to themselves, Ibatrquatly obsnrvable iu till other Indians; not only from |!iraiim.rs, hut from one another When they happen to Ik; doiK'al, (iiey will Rometimes ^ivn np the articles they have |!!i)li'ii, with a loud laiipli, and instantly appear as uncon- IfcriiiKl as if nothing had happened amiis. Tliioving, amon^ Ifco iii'ople, is ralher considered as merilorious, instead lof ili-i^riKefiil, if the pilferfr h«s shewn any dexteiity, Ikt ilie I)iiii!?lii)i5 robliiT is not mnch admired. The pro- Itoiid thief is generally known by a profusion of p-iint lupmi his face; and whilst others arc adimrin^ liio whim. |iiralli( of his appearance, his han near the sea, that in all probability it irottid be ouc of the last places that would freeze, anJ one of the first iu wiiich the ice 'vould break up." . J The natives never practise the method of smoking their provisions; aud, for salt, can only dry their fish in the sun, havini; no other method of cnrins; their winter stock: they generally roast ihoir fresh lisli, by runi>ing some sticks through to spread it, and clapping it up before the tire. They usually dress their animal fooil in baskets or wooden vessels, by putting to it red hot stones, till thuy think thu victuals arc dressed enouj^h. It is indeed astonishing that th':y can dress tlioir provisions so Mpe^itiouiily as they do in this way. ■• . > ' 3M ou» I ''If '^H 1 1 2'28 A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. M- OUB animals, are harpoons made of bone, with two or more barbs; having' a staft' of seven or eight feet long, on which a skin, or well-blown bladder, is i'astened as a buoy; and darts of three or four feet long, which they throw with a wooden instrument of the length of about a foot. Being well clear of Montague Island, they stood to the southward and eastward, intending to make a harbour near Cape Edgecombe. All the land next the sea, beginning about eight leagues to the south-east of Cross Cape, and trending to within ten leagues of Cape Edge- combe, appears to be composed of low woody islands, having apparently several places of good shelter. On drawing near the opening, about two miles from the shore to the north-west of it, they had twenty and twenty -five fathoms water. A large Indian boat came out, perhaps to view the ship: of twelve people who were in her, only three of them were men; the rest were women and children. The navigators run up to the north-west of the harbour, and anchored about noon. Soon after they were moored, the Indian boat, which bad followed them, came along-side, and the people entertained them with a song. Their language appeared to be totally different from that spoken by the natives of Prince William's i)ound ; but they extended their arras, like those people, as indications of peace. Their boat was the body of a large pine-tree, neatly excavated, and the whole of it neatly and elegantly finished. Captain Portlock made bis new visitors a few trifling presents, and spoke to them about sea- otters' skins, by the name they bear at Prince William's Sound ; but as they did not understand him, he shewed them a sea-otter skin, intimating by signs that he requested they would bring him some; to which they seemed perfectly inclined. They were ornamented with beads of various sorts, and had some articles which induced him to suppose that the Queen Charlotte had touched near this neighbourhood ; particularly in a tin ket- tle and some towes, exactly corresponding with *• Towards evening (he visitor-^ were preparing to go on siiore, but by scturini; (lie captain's friendship, (ht;y wished to leave one of their party on board for the nit^ht, and take )' Prince Wil. liam's Sound, in the course of which quarrels sometimes arose, and battles frequently ensued' one of the men pointed to a deep wound near hi! lip, which he had received in an engagement with them*. Early the next morning the Indians returned with the European, to be exchanged : but tiie? brought very Vdilc. trade. The pers-ni who went on shore willi the Indians, informeit the captain that their residence was at the foot of a hill, near a run of fresh water, issuing out of an acijaccnt valley. Their house seemed to be of the IcMpo- rary kind, and very few articles of trade were to be seen in it. The long-boat, at five in the morning of the 7th of August, was sent on a trading expedition towards Cape Edgecombe, and the islantls totlit south-east of that cape: the adventurers were! particularly enjoined to return in seventeen davs;! and, if they happened to fall in with the Queenl Charlotte, to desire Captain Dixon to sail wM them towards their present harbour, and reiminl in the oilipg till Captain Portlock should jo him. The adjacent country abounding with whilel cedar, Captain Portlock sent the carpenter ool shore with a party, to cut some for sawing into! sheathing boards: the remainder of the shipjl company were employed on various ncccssarrl occasions. A small canoe came along-side oil the 8(h, with one man and a woman; buttherl had nothing to dispose of: they soon rcturnei towards the eastern point of the Sound. AboutL eight in the evening, the same canoe came &t^m\ in company with two large boats, contauiing twenty-five persons. They entertained the Eul ropcans about an hour with singing, and then took their leave, and went on shore. Oii L-avin of sca-ottor skins they had in their possession, and niigi be enabled to form an idea of their manner of livin;;. Ilj therefore permitted one of his people to go on shore; that he mightjibc under no a|)prcheusion about his sme inhabitants, aixl purchaicd ^out • score of good sea-otter skitis. Between the liar, hour and the cape, tliey fell in witli a itraji about a league wide at the entrance, with boU shores and good anchorage f. On the 'iOth tlitur late visitor from the south. west made his appearance m a large bout; hj, party consisting of twenty men and women, mj ten or t-velve children. As this chief, on bij taking leave of Captain Portlock, had prooiiijeil to return with a large cargo of nea-otter skins, i brisk trade was now e -. pected to begin ; but at thii time his old acquaintance was not for transacting business in a hurry; he supposed that, on bjs last visit, they were not impressed with an ade- quate idea of his importance; for now he ciinic along-side, with his parly, in great pomp aiid solemnity, alt of them singing: they had in. strumental, as well as vocal music, which con* sisted of a large old chest, beaten with the hands. by way of drum, and two rattles. The chirfl held one of the rattles in his hand, often shakini; it with an air of const nee, and the rent of Ins tribe were particularly e.xact in copying hij mutions^;. After this long ceremony was over, the chief I made and getting a little wood on board, the long-boat retiirncil to tlie ship, and during the whole passage did not src s single canoe. On the 18th Captain Portlock weirt in the wh.ile.boalto survey the south jwiiit of the entrance into the Sound; and, landing in a small bay, found a sort of nioiiiiinintl near the beach, probably erected to the memory of some I distinguished chief. This editir« consisted of four \muA each about twenty fi^et long, stuck in the ground about ski feet distant from each other, and in a quadrangular forni.f About twelve feet from the ground there was a rougl boardcil floor, in the middle of which an Indian chest wail deposited; and oi\ the side of the etlifice to the wcstwanij and wliicii pointed u|) the Sound, the resemblance ufal human face was painted. This wooden edifice, from iiJ tottering condition, had probably been erected a long timfT as it began to decay: in attempting to examine the chest,! to learn what it contained, the whole fabric had like tv| have given way, on which Captain Portlock ordered th< boat's crew to desist, that a building might not be destroJ ed that was possibly looked upon by the Indians as sacndj and whicn they were anxious to preserve. I He was decorated with an 4>ld coat, made of rIoilJ which formerly 'lad been scnilct, with some old !,'olil oa silver fringe about the shoulders: he had also a cloak, inij bellished on each side with a profusion of biittonj, anl small lead pipes, each about an inch I mg. I/is hair, ;ifiif having been well oiled, was entirely tilled with dcm takn from gulls: and in this grotcEtiuc lignre, ho displayed i inucl Iniade the cap nifcr skin; bul i iiinating that I IfralHc could bf Lailv, Captain Luiiild instant! V ,|,sii|i|)(iiiitod, fii Jincrtlcr to vary IsiMiied ii v.iricfy were engaged ii I iirarcd as ti warr |(li;s<, and seenic liidiai) conqiicro I in the character [(vliich repiosentt lii.iial ornaments; loiiu'd unil suppt Ircacii of Indian After the cone Iwliii'h the approl l|iei:tcd and reqin'i Itaiiie on board, a Itbu course of tli( jtwonty-five piece laboiit ten whole t Irliiel' charged for jliirs, lor he was lli'ir for the artici The chief renui |pro|ile, and as h( lain stint Joseph artv. ^\'oodcoc t> an hostage, wat llic natives, and liivrompaiiv. I pcniiincd thrt'e dn w him an e.xce Iheir customs and jroiiiit exactly talli Irrvalions on shore lili rdiisivpience as a III llii'' eurioiis dres IjJ :iiii»llier in the bo Iwiiii niipetred, dirri »l»i ii\i(ii;- in this re I Jii' likially KviaiUi Pill .IS ii.> iiiiKer of ii \v:y lime gi'.'w iiMi iBiNiii-'. al'ter h niii.; I's, ineMoii fiiims, (he inside oiiiw Vol n. No. l: A VOYAGE ROUND THF, WOlftD. ii:H made 11'* captain a present of half a sca- oltcr Hk'"«' '''"* P'"0«'"f<'d nothing for sale, in- (nnatinjf tl>at lie mnst go on »lioie before any ifralfic could be|i:in. Returning again, with his Ipailv, Captain Portlock thought the trairic 'vdiilil iiistiintlv conirnonce; hut he was again |,l,sii|.|t(»iiitcil, tor singing was again begun ; and, jiKtriliT lo vary the imuisemcnt, the chief ropre- .„,e,j ji v.irictv of t-haraeters. whilst his people Iwt'tc. ongagi'il in singing. At one time he ap- iiriiri'd as a warrior, and assumed an appropriate (hi'n^i ""f^ set^"**-'*' to have all the ferocity of an Indian conqueror about him. lie next appeared ■ in llic character of a woman, wearing a mask Iwliicli roproscnfed a woman's face, wifh their III. mil ornaments; this character was so well ima- jniiud and supported, that it seemed beyond the Ireatii of Indian art. After the conclusion of this entertainment, of Iwliitli the approbation of the spectat(trs was ex- Jneded and required, the chief and his attendants lame on board, and trade was proceeded on. In Itlic course of the day Captain Portlock bought Lvcnty-tive pieces of good sea-otter, equal to laboiit (en whole skins; but it appeared that the Ifliit:!' charged for the entertainment as well as (he Jliirs, for he was obliged to pay extravagantly Idi'ir for (he articles he purchased. The cliiof remaining on board with one of his Inronli', and as he required a hostage, the rap- llaia sL'iit Joseph Woodcock on shore with his partv. >\'oodcock having been frequently left ti an hostage, was become intimate with many of Ilic natives, and they seemed excessively fond of .rompanv. Upon one of these occasions, he kcniaincd three days among the Indians ; which |ra\i; him an excellent 0|)por(uni(y of observing Iheir ciiMoms and mode of living; and his ac- lount ixacdy tallied villi the captain's own ob- [rrvalions on shore : their filth and na^tiness e\- lih riiiisi'.|iu'iH\' as a Spiiiiish don could liavi? doni-, Dc- , ilii". iiirioiis dros-:, \»irK:!i llu- cliivl" liiiusolf norc, he |j>l aiiKilici ill flu- l)'w (r.)iihU"-onic. thi'\ fod upon their liKlu ,!ii";. a!'l< r hiviiii; capliiird liicin about their [irrsons. Lftiincs, iiidi'i il. whi-n thry wen; found iinconimunly Igiii runs and ra\tiiu)its, Ihcy ohtuiiud n littiu .-i'S[iito, by Viiiii,!! the inside oiilH.irds. ^^^ Vol. 11. No. LXXXIII. ceeded all conception ; and their food, which consisted principally of fish, was juixcd witli stinking oil and otls^r di.sagreeable ingredients. The remains of every meal were thrown into a corner of their hut on a heap of the same kind of materials in a complete state of putrefaction, which diffused a very loathsome and ofiensivc odour : to render the situation still more horrible, the same apartment served them both to eat and 9le£p in. This comfortless situation frequently induced Woodcock (i) t.tko a ramble into the woods ; but his motions were strictly watched by some of his new companions, who were always apprehcnsivt; that he sought ah opportiniity of making hi«- escape from them. Once in particular, when he had rambled a ennsiderahle distance from the re- sidence of the Indian*, lie began to amuse him- self with wlii-lliiig ; not supposing, even if the natives heard liim, that thoy could posMblv be oHoiulcd ; but in this re-^pect lie was rxeeitriin^'ly mistakeji: for .ie\eral (if them ran un iruine- dia(ely, and insisted on his silence. Not per- fectly coinpreliending tlu; meaning of this pe- remptory injunrtion at lirst, he ventured to go on with his time. One of the natives, however, put a stop to It. by layin;v his hand on Wood- cock's mouth; coiisideringthe whistling as a signal for his companions to come for him. Hut though he was thus narrowly watched by these people. they treattnl him in other respects with great kindness; and. at their meals, .selected the nicest morsels for him to regale on, mixing his fish with plenty of putrid oil, winch lu their opinion, added greatly (o its perfection: thev were so fullv convinced of tin* dciteiotts relish eommnnicated by this oil, tli;it he found it no easy matter to persuade them to let iiii:i cat his fish without sauce *. On the 2l.st (he Indian chief, with his party. Poor Woodcock iooii bt'canic .-js much caressed bv thc«« crawlers as hi; (Miiiii.uii'ms, luu. as .such guiKts wcro a novelty to him, In; lui;au i«. f'lvl liis .situation extromelv dis- agrecahle. The Indians eiu'leavoiired to |inisii,it!n him to retaliate in tiio nianncr lliey \v.«re accu.stoin-.d Jo ait; but this wa.s so tolaliy irpn^'nant to \\\* feelings, tiiat he could ijot follow their plan of oiKraiions. .\' leiiolji, however, he prevailed on some oi the women to drive them from iheir quarters, niid the iiiinUTs were probably well paid for huntiuj,' by the gaum ilie\ capmred. N returned Id3'2 A VOYAGE ROUND TIIK WORLD. returat-d on board, but he waa us tedious in the disposal of bis furi^as ho had bt^cii on the preceding duy. About seven in the evening their trading WU8 finished; and, knowing (he neighbourhood >vas cleared of all (he furs^ Captain Portlock re"- Bolved to take the earliest opportunity of quitting the Sound : (he ship was consequently immedi- ately put into a state fit for sea. This party from the north-we»t undet?tood the art of thieving with as much dex'erity as ayy of their former visitors in (he Sound. Wiicn any one had fixed his e)e on an article he intended to steal, it is astonishing to see with what patience, secrecy, and dexterity he will convey the booty away. One fellow, in particular, conceived a fancy, for Captain Fortlock's drinking mug, vshich was u black-jack : be had got it under his frock, which was made in the fashion of those at Prince William's Sound ; but, unfortunately for the poor fellow, it happened to be about half full of beer, a part of which having splashed over, discovered the thief and his intentions. Though the captain kept two people continu.ally in his cabin, to observe the motions of the bye- fitandcrs, whilst be traded with any of them, one and to put a piece of copper wire to prevent jt from closing; this they wear (ill (hey arc about fourteen, when it is taken out, and the wooden ornament introduced. They also have their cars bored, where they wear their ornaments of bcadi and other things. Their apparel is the same kind as worn bj the men; and both sexes delight in long hair, considering it as a very preposscgNin» ornament. The women wear the hair cither clubbed behind, or tied up in a bunch on the crown of the head : the men wear it loose, orded at the crown. The method of dressing the hajr with bird's down, is only practised by flie tiie„ The women are generally hair-drcsscrs for their husbands, in which character they conduct them, selves with dexterity and good nature. Polygamy is not countenanced here : Captain Portlock never observed any of the natives to have more than one woman, whom he seemed (o consider as his wife; to whom they pay strict at- tention, and treat with tenderness and adertiou; any familiar advances towards another's wife jj deemed an unpardonable aftVont. Both men aod women are also fond and affectionate parent^ The women are (he treasurers, who generally keen set fellow found an opportunity of getting a cutlass | their riches in a box or basket; and the women also take the lead in fashions. It is not (he cus. torn of these people, as with the South Islanders, for the men and women to eat scpa- rately, nor are the females confined to food of » particular description. Men, women, and chil- dren sit down indiscriminately at their meals which principally consist of diderentkiads of lish; siicli as salmon, seals, sea-otters, porpoises, and a variety of shell-fish. Their persons, with regard to size, are like the Europeans: the men have a fierce and savaee aspect, which, with (heir dress, gives them iinich the appearance of warriors; their weapons of war are daggers, and long-pointed spears: they are soon irritated, and their revenge is unlimited: being well acquainted with their tempers. Cap- tain Portlock always guarded as much against them as possible: and upon all occasions took care to be well provided for them in case of an attempt, by keeping his pistols ready cliarged! before him. Their women, were it not for the filth whichj they abound in, would be by no means disagree able; their features in general are pleasing, and! ex press! \e of 4 modest diflSdence. They fre-| quenlljfl under his frock, and was not detected till he was descending the side of the ship. Captain Port- lock took it from him, gave him several strokes with the flat side of if, and afterwards drove him from the ship. Yet, notwithstanding all their vigilance, another fellow stole out of a box in the cabin four pair of worsted stockings, and several other articles, with which he got out of the ship undiscovered. Their visitors from the east appear to have much more honour and honesty than the western people, and are less savage and ferocious. The women at this Sound, which has obtained the appoilatinii of Portlock's Harbour, disfigure themselves in a very extraordinary manner, by making an incision in the upper lip, in which they wear un oval piece of wood, the size being re- gulated by the age of the wearer ; some of them had these ornaments of the magnitude of a tea- saucer. The weight of this preposterous em- bellishment drags the lip down so as to cover the whole of the chin, leaving the lower teeth and gum naked and exposed, which gives them a disagreeable appearance. The children have their lips bored when about two years of age. A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 833 (*! nuently g*ve our navigators an opportunity of witneuing tlieir desire to please, particularly when the wooding party, went on shore. At those times, they usually ranged themselves in a line, VL»i began to aing, not omitting to exhibit innocent scenes of drollery, to please the people while they were at work, If their exertions hap- nencd to please the people, and make them I laugh, they all immediately joined in a loud burst of joy and approbation. Their language, however, is harsh and unpleasant to the ear. The habitations of these people are made of a I few boards, which they take away with them Uhen they repair to their winter quarters. It is surprising to see how well thf y shape the boards with the wretched tools th'jy errtploy. Their country is mountainous, and covered with tho pine-tree; many of which grow to an amazing size. They have great ingenuity, which they de- monstrate upon variii'is uccusions : thf^y form a curious basket of twigs, in which they fre- quently boil their victuals, by pitting red-hot stones in them. Their ideas of carving i'.rc far from being contemptible; every Ktcnsil they make use of, having some rude carvMig, repre- senting one animal or another. ;ii '», SECTION VII. \pmae:e from the Coast to the Sanduich Islands — Transactions there^-Lctters received from Cap- tain Dixon and Mr. Ross — Their final Departure — Passai^e to China — Arrival there — And pro- cecd to England — Anchoring in Margate Roads on the Itith of August, 1778. arc like savage) ^u nuR-h of war 1 Lhey ate I limited:! |s, Cap- again-tj Ins took Ic of an] [•harged] ON the 17th of September, at two in the morning, standing to the south by east, ICaptain Portlock saw a large flight of flying-fish, Itlic first during the passage: also a few tropic Ibirds, and some bottled-nose porpoises. From tliJ!) time to the 27th, nothing interesting hap- gened; and then, at half past eight, they saw llie high land of Owhyhee, bearing west-south- lest, distant Gfteen or twenty leagues. On the ;th at five in the morning, they found them- Ives two leagues and a half from the land : at Ml time they bore up, and made sail towards lliesihore. At five they were six miles from the Lliorc, when a parcel of canoes came otfwith the jlltrent productions of the island ; as hogs, io»l'i, bread-fruit, plantains, taro, and a few Idioa-nuts. Of other articles they also bought in abundant supply; and though there .was a eavy swell, and the day unsettled, some of them Hide several trips to shore, before the evening inie CD, for other cargoes, as they di<< posed of lieir first. Remaining within about four or five lib of the shore, from seven in the morning pi seven in the evening, they purchased about to hundred hogs and pigs, six dozen fowls, liiee tons of bread kind, with plenty of fishing they foujid these articles very commodious for trading with, as they could get provision for them upon very moderate terms. On the 29th of September they caught several very large sharks : it was astonishing to sec how little these fish are dreaded. Captain Portlock frequently saw five or six large sharks swimming about the ship, when there have been upwards of a hundred Indians in the water, includi.ig men, • women, and children. They seemed perfectly indifferent about them, and the sharks never at- tempted to make an attack upon them, though at the same time they would seize the bait of the Europeans very greedily. On the yd of October, in running along shor*, a number of canoes, large and small, came off' to ' our navigators, but had hardly a single article of provision. From these visitors they understood- that the king, and most of the principal men of the island were at Oiieehow, and that previous io their sotting off for that island, they had ta- booed the hogs, and prevented their gettinji^ any. They were also informed that the Nootka and Queen Charlotte had been at the island : and Captain I'ortlock received intelligence that Cai; tain Dixon had left a letter for him with Al;!;c- nooc, which then lay at his house a* V\ uin.t. The next morning a young man^ named Tuhiiet-, M ho >!:' i» ■ n ^^^: I'U, ■ilii M 1 '■■ ;l mm 8*' ■■' ■! .1 .1 c <§ 23i A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. viho was the son of Abbeiiooe, came on boards witb intelligenee that the letter was tabooed in the house, and could not be delivered to any per- son \iit Abbenooe/ or in obedience to his direc- tion , About ten o'clock the following" morning, Captpiii Portlock, made sail for Oncehow, with a fair breeze at east south-east. On the 4th of October, at six in the evening, they came to anchor on the south-west side of Oneehow, in sixty-two fathoms water. At nine in the morning two canoes came alongside, from which they procured a temporary supply of yams. From the people of these canoes they un- ilcrstoodj that Abbenooe would be on board in a flho'/t time, accompanied by and iinian open, steer- ed fur it, and about nine passed close to the south cud of S.i\|>an, iinnicilialelx to the west- ward, olf which |)oint is a g->tKl !>ay *. Uu the 18th, at day-light our navigators were * A niiinI)i,T of wliiti' aiiiiii;ils 'w.tc oliscrvi-il gr.iziiig on the phrins of 'I'iiiiiiii, whii'li wore Mijipo'iil (o be Uic wliife catlle witi'i wliich t-onl .Aiiuoii says ilu; islaciJ of Tinian so tiitich aliotiiiils. 'J'hcv t'oiilil not, tlH)i':;li v^idiin half a iiiik' of Sa_v|>ait, pciccivt; an aniinal of any knul : ?)ii( both (Ik' i.s!.inil.'< appear (ranscxMuloiitly hLiiaiiful, nhunntling in Ininionsc qnaiililics of ('o('()a-n;u and otlwr Irt'ivs. + W'liilst tliry lay (licio, a (lanfjcn.tss niiifiny liapponcd ,o>i board (lie Ui'lvidijrc, ("apiain (incr, (hoii lyiag at the Maine jilasc On «vhic'i o. cation a court of iMKpiiry was Ju'lil for (he irial of tlie mutineers. Tlie court liavini; Jfone Atiruuglt tliu evidence, ani.' a»kc'd whai thu pruoni-rs had (o surrounded by a number of Chinese fishing v«s. sels, or junks. At half past nine, seeing a Chi. nese vessel steering towards them, they shortened sail, and brought to, hoping to get a pilot out of her. Sent the whale-boat on board her which speedily returned, accompanied by a boat from the Chinese vessel, iu which came a pilot with whom Cfaptaiu Porllock agreed for his carrying the ship to Macao for fifty dollars. At half pait ten .stood to the west-north-wost. On the 2ist they weighed^ and stood towards Macao, and ai hajf past four anchored in Ma- cao-road, in four fathoms and a half. On the 'i5th, at two in the afternoon came to six fathoms two miles below \\'ymoat. On the .')()ih of May Captain Portlock sailed for Englaiiil, and on the l.'Jlh of June arrived at the islai'd of St. Helena, from whence thcyic- sumed their passage on the 19th, and anchored in Margate Iloads on the 24th of August : the people all in high spirits, and rejoiced to see H their native shore. The grand object of the voyage, of which an acctumt is given in the preceding sheets, beiiufj to trade for furs, in expectation of finding tan advantageous traffic; the public will tlicieforei naturally encpiire whether such expectations has been answcroii, especially as reports have hpon industriously propagated to the contrary. That the A'/'wii iu-));-y:c's Sound ComiHini/ have not ac- cumulated immense tortunes, may perhaps be, true, but it is also true that they are gainers to the i>nu)unt of some thousands of pounds; audi that they have not been more completely siir- ces^ful, allowance will naturally be niaile I'drl their inexperience in a first essav. Imoiii this] plain staicnient of facts, it is perhaps the most profitable and lucrative employ that the enter- prising merchant can possibly engage in. say for themselves, i( apprar.-d (hal there had not been ikl 1 'as! eaiisc fur iii!:riniir an:!iii>t (he ship'^ eoinpaiiy, ur fori ill iis.ij;e from my one jieCy otTiecr in the ship. The (niirtl Mere iluTeforo 111' (ipiiiion, that severe anil iiiimoriiad' cor-l t)ornl pMiil^lniient slionld lie indirted upon Ihr riiifjleadi'isji flnoliiiioiil of pullin;; off his gaudy l'itiro|)can dress, and to cloljii himself with a sheep's skin. In this new attire he rcpairct to Vander Stel, taking with him a Imndle, containing hi^ lid rio'hes; and, presenting th-.ra to the governor, Ihuj addressed him : " Be so kind, sir, as lu observe, tint ll for ever renounce these clothes; I am determined, from this moment, to observe the religion, matiuers, and customJ of my ancestors. The only favour I have to request uj| you is, that you will i)ermit mu to keep the nccklaoc aiil cutlass which I now wear." — lie then instantly withdroifJ without waiting for the governor's answer, and was iictJ afterwards beheld at the Capc§. And such examples far from being uncommon among the Mad«!casges. chesl ^ Ilinloire des Foifagcs, Tom. V, A VOYAGE TO MADAGASCAR. 2S7 chcs lia^e only two methods of preparing their food ; they either boil it in handsome earthen I vessels, or they broil it upon the coals*. The Malegaches catch immense quantities of I ea and fresh-water fish. Those who live on the borders of the sea are supplied with the dorado, soUs pilchards, herrings, mackarel, oysters, crabs, and turtle.. The rivers also afford abun- dance' of fine eels, and fresh-water mullets, much uiiucrior in taste and excelles'ce to sea-mullets. There are, however, on this coast, several kinds of fisli which should not be cafc'in till proof was oblaiued of their not being poisonous. To try whether they are really in that state, a piece of silver is placed under ilicir tongue; and if it loses coll)""", and becomes black, those who would llmve eaten theiu would experience very fatal sviintoms, and be exposed to great danger. iicvcral of the people belonging to Admiral Bos- cawi'ii's squadron lost their lives at Rodriqucz, bv omitting this necessary precaution. Of the Southern Part of oMADAGASCAR. That part of Madagascar in which Fort Dau- Iphiiie is situated, is very populous. The vil- llaees are chiefly built upon eminences, and siir- Irounded by two rows of strong palisades; some ■of (hem are also f jrtiflcd by a ditch ten feet in Ibrcadth, and six in depth. The chief re- Iside^ in a place Called Douac, consisting of two \m three buildings, surrounded by a peculiar [kind of ipLkJsure, for him, bis women, and his Children. The chiefs are always armed with a fusee, and |a stick headed with iron; at one end of the latter lasmall hum' of cow's hair is aii\xed; and a jtap of rod woollen cloth serves as a covering for Iheir heads. Though the authority of these Ithiefi is now very much limited, yet in the pro- lince of Carcanossi they are the supposed pro- Letors of all the lands, which they distribute ifliong their subjects to be tilled; f<»r which iit) require o.ily a small quit-rent. The people ^Thry iirs export at catching a it 'mber of birds unknown D Kuropc, which arc prized by tiio naturalist for the Luty oi' their plumage, as much as they are by traTclkrs naccount of their exquisite taste. The pheasant, the par« kidge, the quail, the pintado, wiUUducks, and tualii of liferent kinds, afford the most excellent md delicate nou> )ikin€iit to the Hurupcans. The black paraijuet, the tur> ledove, tlic tpooii ijill, the bl .-ik-bird, the green wood- ;:on, aad a kind of bat of most extr luidiuary magnitude of the province of Carcanossi are not entirely ig- norant of the art of writing; they have some historical books in the Madecasse language: but their learned men, whom they call Ombiasses, use only the Arabic characters. These Ombiasses :irr both sorcerers and physicians ; the most cele- brated of whicti come from the province of Ma- tatane, where magic is supposed to {l(;urish in its full glory. The Ombiasses profess, in the public 8';hool8, Geomancy and Astrology; and. it appears certain that the art of writing has been brought into this island by the Arabs, who con- quered it about three hundred years ago. Their paper is manufactured from the 1-apjjnts nUolicn, which the Madecasses name Sanga-Saugu. The pens used by these islanders arc made of the bam- boo; and their ink is produced from a decoction: in boiling water of the bark of a tree which they call the ovandraio. The Arabic language has made some progress in the north-west part of (his island; and it is well known that the Arab princes forme'' large establishments along the African coasi. They also took possession of the island of Comora; and when they emigrated to Africa and the adjacent isles, they did not forget their own country. They still carry on an inconsiderable trade with Aden, Mascate, and tiie coasts of Abyssinia.. Thus have they introduced their language, and left some traces of Mahoraetanism among the Malegaches. Formerly there subsisted between, the Arabs and the Portuguese of India very great animosity, arising from the zeal of these two na- tions for the propagation of their respective re- ligions, and iinuch mischief ensued. The Arabs made frequent attacks upon the Portuguese esta- blishments OP the coasts of Africa, and even de- stroyed some of their settlements; but this hatred gradually subsided, when the decline of the Por- tuguese power rendered them less objects of jea- lousy. An attempt was made at Goa, about twenty years ago, to take advantage of this sup- pensiun of lioiitilitics. and to form a Portuguese improve the deHcious catalogue. The Abbe Rvchon sayj^ " it wa« not without a cousiderable degree of reluctance^ that I first ato the bats of Madagascar, i!rcssed after the manner of a fricaseed chicken. The animals are so hide. 0U4, that th« very sight of (hem frightens our sailors; yet \vhen one can overcome tliat disgust which h inspired only by the idea of their figure, th(4r flesh is found to be more palatable than that of our best fowls." settlement k^'im ■lit ''ml •''M V\'. V: )' t ■' li ■ \ . I : 23S A VOYAGE TO MADAGASCAR. ficUlement at Uape St. Sebastian in Madagascar. The intention of this establishment was merely relig:ions. ". i>« Porlugiiose thought of forming a mission, rather than a factory; but this pro- ject was not attended with success. As this island has been so much frequented by the Arabs it seems surprising that Mahometan- ism has not made greater progress inj^; but, if we except circumcision, abstinence from pork, and some few unimportant practices, the descendants of the Arabs themselves have lost sight of tho fundumf-ntal parts of their religious opinions. They believe not in a future existence: raid, like the Maniacees, they admit of two principles, one superlatively good, and the other extremely wicked. Tlieyiuner address their supplications to the former, but they dread the severity of the latter, to whom they are continually doing homage, ami olfering up sacrifices*. The Anacandrians are descended from the Rhoandrians; on which account they share with the Rhoandrians the honour of killing, for the other islanders, thn animals necessary for their subsistence. The Ontzalsi enjoy no particular marks of distinction: they jvre generally valiant soldiers, and can throw a stone with great dexte- rity; their time = usually spent in dancing, sleep- ing, and amusii.^ ^hcmselves. From their earliest intancy they are taught songs, replete with lessons of morality, or containing fables respecting their origin. The native blacks are divided into four classes; riz. the Voadziri, the Loavohits, the Ontzoa, and the Endeves. The Voadziri. it is atlirmed, are desoendod from the , sovereigns of the island: they are rich in slaves andi flocks, arid are permit- ted to possess several villages. These people are held in much estimation among the islanders of Madagas( ar, for they have preserved the right of killing, when they are not in the presence of a * The isliind of Madagascar is so liltle disfaiit from the CDast of Africa, that it may probably have been peopled from the vast cotitincnt; but the dili'cTont race^ are now so iiitormixc't', that they could with diiriciilty be discriminated. The descundauts of rial luj^roes may, however, be iFistin- giiihhed, but it would be a vain attctnpt to point out those who descended frou) (he whites. + Such of the islanders as have any erudition relatR, that the creator of heaven and earth formeil, from the b(idy of the first man whilst he was a^lL-op, seven women, whd vrterc the motliers of the dilFerent c.ihHcs; of w'lich the author jrives a v«rv uninleresfin^ section. t The Malenachcs of the province of Anossi are lively, 5 Rhoandrian or a Macandrian, such animals a,? belong to their subjects: The Lohavohits are less powerful, and never can possess more than one village. The Ontzoa arc related to the Lo- havohits, but they have no kind of authority or privilege. The Ondeves are slaves by extractionf How can it be supposed that these people, ju! volved in the darkness of ignorance, can defend themselves against the deception of the Ombiiisse< when the most enlightened nations are dupes to quacks and impostors. Reason is seldom so now. erful as to prevent a man entirely from that fond. ness for the marvellous which often hurries Iiim into the most ridiculous allusions; and if he some. times conceals this fatal propensity, it is mereiv because he is ashamed of his weakness;};. A ])liirality of wives is common among tlie chiefs and those who are rich; but they can- not legally be married to more than one; the rest are only considered as concubines. A divorce is easily procured whenever the conjugal imion displeases th^ husband or wife: but, when ihey separate thus, by mutual cou'^etit, thcv re- store to each other the property thev respeciiveJv possessed before marriage. In Madagascar, the adulterer is deemed a robber, and punished ac- cordingly. The people therefore pay the great- est respect to marriage, and cx!u)rt strangers to i behave with decency to their wives; but tliev voluntarily offer them their daughters. Married women have their hair separated into tresses, and bound up in the form of a nosegay on the top of the head: young women permit it to r.iil'care.i Icssly over their shoulders, Husbands are al\va\i sprightly and merry -n the cotnpanv of Iheit wives; as soon as tlie. perceive th'mi, they beifiaj to dance und sing. The Malegache women ge- nerally set.'n cJ i-erful and happv, and their iii-iii- ners are found peculiarly pleasing to the Eiiro- [>ean8. intelligent, and grateful: they arc passionately fond ufl women, and. never ai)pear sorrowful or dejected in tliritl comiiany : th<^ir principal aim is to procure the •ppnihalionl of the fjiir. The man here never coiuma'uls as u de^put, iiurl docs the woman over obey a.s a slave ; but the bal.iiin' off power iticlines in f.ivour of the wonie i. Their einpin'nl Ihat- of 'beauty, mildness, and the graces; for, wlirii uj e.vcept the colour, the .Malegache women are hanilsDiio.f Their |iersons arc slender and i^enteel, thi-ir fratiirj delicate, their skin soft and smooth, an Abbe then obsc vca that in 1612, Captain Vol. II. No. LXXX.1\. Picaulet obtained for himself and his associates the exclusive |)rivilege of trading to Madagascar, and at the same epoch a grant of the island was given to a powerful company by letters patent from the crown. After which one Pronis was commissioned to take possession of it. The conduct of Pronis giving great offence, Flacoir was chosen to succeed him, hut he did not ariv i at Fort Dauphine till December, 1648, and a tedious account of the ancient history of tlM place is then given by the Abbe, which would almost occupy the usual number of pages given in a volume; all of which would be for ;ign to our plan, and consequently be offensive to our readers. Towards the conclusiori of the last century, the French were anxious to people theii colonies at any rate; and they were not very ■ '.rupulous respecting the means. Young men, accused of misconduct, were often hurried away by strata- gem or violence. The greater part of their colonics, however, received benefit from these forced emigrations; and the exiles seemed to have forsaken their vices when they forsook their climate. It may be readily perceived that case and liberty must have produced this change. In civilized coi'ntries, rt'straint inllamcs the passions; but in free and fertile countries the disturbers of social order almost instantly lo.'ie their vicious inclinations. " Can there be a happier nation in the universe than the United States of America? The rights of every individual are there held sacred; and dangerous would it be to attempt to violate any of them. In that happy country, virtue, know- ledge, and taients meet with a most distinguished reception. Little inequality is found there; and the people acknowledge that only which arises from superiority of talents aud knowledge. Law- is equally powerful there over him who com- mands as over him who obeys. Justice is dis- tributed with an equal aud impartial hand, and convenience is never substituted for equity. Here the most numerous class of citizens arf never degraded by absurd prejudices, which, in Europe, renders individuals so discontented wilh their situation that they arc induced to quit it.' It is Ihcn highly necessary to reform evcrv thing that leads man aside from his duty; to inspire him with love for his fellow creatures, and convince him that it will prumute both his 3P uiierost i":-' t ■ .1: i '2iO A VOYAGE TO MADAGASCAR. i. interest and his happiness not to do an injury to another. But this salutary end cannot be attain- ed by multiplying capital executions. Every society indeed luis a right of excluding from its bosom, all those who disturb its good ordor: but can it as«»me to itself the power of life and death over those individuals who compose it ? This question has frequently been warm'y de- bated, but has it ever been resolved? The mar- quis of Becaria, in hii treatise on crimes and jvrrdf^hmeiit.'i, says, " It appears to me absurd that laws, which arc only an expression of the public will, that detests and punishes homicide, sliould commit the same crime themselves ; and (hit, to deter maidiind from murder, they sliould themselves command a public murder." "What then are real and useful laws?" adds Becaria, " Those which all would propose, and •which all would wish to observe." According to this iUustrious author, the death of a cri- minal is a less cflectual check than the durable example of a man deprived of his liberty, and obliged to repair by labour the injury he has done to society*. The islanders of INIadagascar are not u stupid and worthless people, merely because their maimers are contrary to ours. C;istoms and usages diil'er according to climates. Men are every where delighted in disfiguring themselves a thousand various wavs: the Indian lengfhcns his ears, the Cliiiiese cr'iisbcs liis nose, and carefully (laKcns his forel ",'1'!, and if we narrowly search info parficiilars, we shall pcrhiijjs discover that man in a sfafe of civilization is guilty of as many great aiisurdities as the savage. If tliese people imbibe the most ridiculous prejudices and suj)erstifions; let it be obsprvcd that there is no country upon the face of the earth which has not i(s chimeras and its fables. In all regions you may see men invoking spirits, ooiilidin-, ill amulets, and anjiised with astrolo- gical reveries. And are i:at the roost civilized nations the dupes of this spirit of infatuation. When supi^rxtitio!) is added to the multiplied vices of large societies, its poison acquires ad- ditional .strength and activity. But wc om-ii| not to be astonished at the superstitious y,j" tices of the Madecasses : Can it be siuprisici that a weak and tender being, exposed from 1,1' I cradle to a variety of infirmities, should ert respecting the cause of those calamities whicli oppress" him? Is it wonderful that the savage I under the influence of a deranged imagination's should have recourse to amulets or spells^ to| avert *'.e dangers with which he supposes lijuj self threatened? If hurricanes ravage the lielc I V, iiich he has cultivated; lightning destroys iIkI shelter he has framed; and the earth opens under I his feet, as if preparing to swallow large tractj of country. Menaced by so many disasters, caJ the .^Tadecasse remain an unconcerned spectator'! No! the less enlightened he is, the greater \vi|| be his terror. He will ascribe these evils to tliel anger of an invisible being, whom he resolveJ to appease by praters and sacrifices; and mij.! taking the nature of the worship wliicli is duel to the Deity, his folly will dictate to liim O most absurd, childish, and even saiijruinarJ practices. It is only the eilect of infalualioii,| from which few people are free; that the .^InU gaches seem to us more criminal than caiiiljalij when, urged by superstition, they expose to tliel teeth of ferocious animals, their iiew-bor.i iiJ fants, according to the decision of the ()iii.j biasses. These wretched impostors pretend to ob^pnel the Jisjicct of the planets, and coijdeinn to dealiil the new-born children, when the moment ofllifiil birth has been pronounced unpropitious, 'I'i months of March and April, the last v^eck every other month, and every Wediiesdav aiij Friclav throughout the year, are days ol' prJ scription. Tliis inhuman decree of thi; Omj biasses, however, is not always carried iiiti execution; fathers more alleelionate, and ksi superstitious, sometimes cause these iiiiiociii victims, after they are sentenced to the luroc' I'si Jjlishi!(! in IJot.iny IJ.iy, have, for (lie happiness of tiumaiiify, that succcs'^ \vl:iih inisht iiMsontilily he pxpecfcd, ran thi' other n:itions of l';iiri)|)e hcsilatc at follo*ving| tlie cxainph'? Will they be iifriiiil of (hu (.'xpeiiCL's which such eniif^ratioiih may occasion ? Jjiit llu'se evpences .ire just, as tvcll as beneficial to Kocieiy, and >sould be found iuciisi du. rabJe when romparcd with the pri'-rnt disbiirs('inrnt5 iini)risonin)f and exociitiii!; rriniinals. C'.m «e jik iVr llil p\itiishmunt of the galleys to sin:h a banisliineiit: What: vantaRo can society derive froii\ f;:illey. slaves? Do tiicy become more biirtheniionu! than useful? Besides, (heiin., of viciousMien spreads corruption to every individual. In>;iil society the least guilty soon arrive at the height of pieili-a^ A VOYAGE TO MADAGASCAR. 241 obscrtel to (leatiil (»f llieii week (II (lav aiil Ooi] icil iiiiq and leii illilOl'iil t; l'(iri'> srincnt? Ill |ii( iVr ill What a Do Ilii'V ihi' Miiid ii.il. ln-;iij Of the Xorlh-East Part of MADAGASCAR. The north-enst part of this island is a rich njan-azinc for (lie colonies of the isles of France aiitf Bourbon; and the most frequented port? are (lie Foulepoint, St. Mary, and Uie bay of Anton- jrjl. In these thrre places the French have at- tcuinted to form all their establishments. A soldier, named Bigorne, who was in the service of ihc East India Company, gave me some inter.- estiii£f information respecting the settlements of t|)C pirates in these districts. This man had gain- ed the confidence of the islanders, and by a long rcsidoiuc among them, acquired a kind of in- ihioiice over them. From tliis man I procured (■misKltrahle knowledge respecting the produc- tions, as well as the manners and cu'<«oms of the iiilial)iti»iits of the north-cast part of Madagascar. The inhabitants of this coast are more docile and liumani; than those in the province of Carcanossi. These inoHensivc people are unacquainted with locks and bolts, and shut the doors of tbeir honses with nothing more permanent than the branches or boughs of trees. Were they the re- positories of treasure, they would leave them equal!} exposed, without dreading the visits of aiiv pluiuleiers. Their dwellings are constructed iiiorely with leaves and mats, and are therefore far from being impregnable. 'I lie pirates who practised their depredations in die Indian seas, alarmed at the preparations which were making to extirpa'T them, or at lea t (o check thorn in their nefario is career, took rcfuiie on the north-cast coast of Madagascar. [.v\cral nations, who experienced enormous losses [liiiin these banditti, united together to deliver the Indian .seas from the oppression of these f(irinidM!»le tyrants, who had sci/cd a large Por- liiiriii'-i' )-Iiip, in which was the arcl)bish()|> of |(i(.a, and (he Count de I{i'C«'ir(\" and the same ilav another vessel richly freighted. IJoth these |\aliiabit! prizes were captured before the isle of IHoiirhiiM. riie pirates, accustomed to war, and elated hull) ilu'ir success, resolutely continued to ex- i'rci>e the plundering trade lor a long time; and Ibffiirc they were extirpated it was found neces- lurv to bring a consideral)le force against them; lluterrily them by exemplary punishnicnt, and to jpurKiic tlKMn through the most imminent dangi^rs, Icaii to the place of their rctrcat.s, where they were under the necessity of setting fire to their vessels. Such were the measures adopf(^d to clear the Indian seas of these aquatic robbers ; who had infested them from the time that Vasco de Gama opened a passage to India, by the Cape of Good Hope. The total destruction of their maritime forces now prevented them from in- terrupting commerce any more, and compelled them to quit the establishment they had formed at St. Mary, an island bordering on Madagascar. They soon began to signalize themselves, how- ever, by new acts of atrocity. But of all the evils, and all the disorders occasioned by their perfidy, is that of having introduced the slave- trade into Madagascar. Liberty is so connected with the essence and dignity of man, that it seems to have been the height of injustice to have con- verted it into a saleable commodity. These banditti, being thus obliged to renounce their former wandering kind of life, they found it necessary to excite quarrels and wars among the Malugachcs, and also render war advantageous to the islanders; convinced that the sale of prisoners, that is to say, a trade in slaves, answered two ends to them, that of perpetuating divisions among the Malagaches, and that of procuring a new mode of enriching t''emselves. By this new crime the pirates terminated their course of rob- bery, i^ crime which continues to depopulate the island of Madagascar. If these observations do not make that im- pression which they ought on enlightened nations, and force them to proscribe slavery, how can they suppose that it will be perceived by savages involved in the darkness of ignorance? We can- not therefore be surprised that the Malegaches, considering the advantages which thi^y continually derive from the sale of slaves, still entertain a grateful remembrance of these infamous men, to whom they conceive themselves indebted for a considerable part of their riches. Jiefleciions on the J^ortht^ii Part of MADAGASr.iR. *rhis is more fertile in productions of every kind than the Southern part, and is much more frequented by European vessels; but the interior part of the country has never yet been visited. ♦The high uioiintains of Vigagora present, at every step, obstacles sutiicient to stop the most resolute and perscvcriug adventurer. The man who i \ ! U i'l; i !-■ r^- nl .! ' ! 1. Si; 1 ;;'t-i i 4 ■■• U i 2^2 A VOYAGK TO RIADAGA AT?. 'il who inay he so advcnUirous as to undertake a journey by this ruggell Viny, ought previously to furnish hiuiself with ropes and poles to climb the steepest places. In the forests the compass is an essential guide; and, every wlicrc else, mechanics furnish the traveller with tlie means of escaping from the most diiiicult si'.iationears ago, however, the inhabitants of Foule- point refused to deal in hogs or pigs, becatise an old man, who was reputed a sorcerer, hud for- must be straightened the very moment fliev aic split. Tin lands in theneighbourliond of Fonlepdiiit abound with rich pasture and cattle. In pa^^siny along the fertile banks of the delightful ri\tf Oiigleby, the traveller is surprized al ils suddeiilv disappearing in the sands, at the dislanec of about four miles from its mouth. This river which is deep in some places, and sliiilou m others, abounds with fisli and water-fowl, liul this stream, like the rest in Aladagasear, is infi>^t- ed with monstrous crocodiles, the sight of wliieli strikes a terror in the most intrepid islanderv (>'reat precaution is necessary to avoid the daiiirtrj of thescdestructi\e ani'uals. The Abbe lf.oiii(i\f says, "\ one day saw an ox dragged away an devoured by one of these monsters." That wiiiilil renders the rivers of Madagascar delightful, tmi- tributes to makes them dangerous: the trees audi shrubs which cover their hanks, serve as iin| asylum for these formidable animals. On advancing from Foulepoint, towards tliel J lli!>'l! (,,'gh mountai dually rises, ai ed from ihew ever, does no liiifli and cov I being less cul [ The islanders 1 suffer them to > The nieadov (trcams and t[i\ I lijriiiful as they The flowers \i splendour, and than thoie whi Tiifts of trees, rural spots nior ] When you qi I fertile immense 1 8 variety of wili Inishuient assails I solitude, refresh i I shades inacccssil jerhoes from ail i I of cattle, afford j |enjo}'tnents are n Tliesc are all I IRocJwh's lut/age .1 Description of I Tii.ioK. bij M. ''■ OiH i I' iwui.i I i HOI) V. (bu id» , ■ <\ ''-'■. ? ;r ■Ml },>:i ,, .•a:d.J i<;li*. > iltlt/ ', ■•■'•I ■'/h.l i ■':ijr,»'i'i i ■■'■ 1'-iiJl-■'; . ^ ■- ■■ (-,•,.! -. ':'' ji. ,!?!> ;•■. •jj,:;: ■, TJiesc are all the pnrticiilars that ive think, it our duty to hiij before our renders from the Ahbe X^ochon's ioyage to J\fada£^df!cur, tlwugh the original ivork contains Aid pages, and an Introduction 1,1 Description of Cocins-CuifiA is also given : and there is added, A Mkhoir of tiik Ci/isesic iDitDf:. btj M. Bttuygi., -'"'•"'•'''.»■ Hi{ I ■; ,si|h» iii\'( Sf. I ,V .!)•;:; ■{{'« ! ff>^; " ,f.-i]i\ini-y> :,ui -tw, :3<( ^I'j' ^' ^J i''i ) ij.M) i .u-jiff// y. ' \;\\ uv itwy^ * 'I to liij^ nUf' "'::•;( I liv'iju. • ; f.''iit'jn;i^' ■' '• '- " ■'■■'' '' ■ '>' ' ■ ■ ■ ■ . ;, v,,|| ;j, ^^j,, ,,,.,,, "' "^'* ^ END OF ROCHONS VOVAGK TO MAD.VGASCAR. »'" '^^'^^^^f ! '' ^ 1 >'/.( ;... I .-I t' . I .*■ P >J5 "''i; f C-vtl'.l ' ' I" /ii tj;h ;.r » f'S '41:0! ;ti :'h/<.ii J': »■ •?■»(•: j».i:-. .- . ii.i/i' ■-■() f ,xf- •<:.-[ t.-i', ■».}] n ...... ; M:ii t .'tift Ui'jl '\ ) ^:Uii 1 i;t };:./! ,-•! >r.;ii.!i; t-nU .i-ijir-: -rit"; ;•■•;,-:> 'a !v/ (,>■;!,;■ •-. ! ..i.iii i<;'ii?uj.'^v; •f.Mt^f^it-. -.ui'fiMOa «>'-<«it-j' )ij i :!):•.•; ,-.. J, 1 ■. f:, u- ,'>.,.*" •-•■,»ii .'.(,( ii'vll ibilm>^m;iOi >.;»■ '^-'f .1 I wi- -iS '•'i"' • tf| Ji; '!.. fi-ii ■ ..••.i.i. -'i-i'.J; .rjj| ft, bi)efi ()o!J?n::i 'nft Ji ,7j iia-sl'!, < i s ! .;; ^j ■ ' ir !j , - ^ ; 'IfiU >-.Mr uM ■,j-i ■ ■ •■ - ' ■■■ill ' . ■ ..Oil.':* .. ,•.;:.( ,; ...1 f-ui« ; v'filc 1,1,^ ,!, ' , 1, , c ;■ . ■-.-■' -^ Vol. II. No. LXXIV. ; f . 3Q TRAVELS ft' illlii : 1 ■ . : ' "'.SI M sMv ; i t . I in 5 i.\ IV i .1, TRAVELS -• -„.. ■ -- ^ 1 \ '> . .il; .^ 1 ■«.'■■'>■ ■ ■ V . *I i fUliiUitU •m ,. / » .' ..THROUGH * <•! . (• t\>\\is}t, ,^'. SYRIA AND EG Y'p'Tr'' i » I f'">\ t,. In the Years 1783, 1781, and 1785. „ , y, „ ,., ^,7, . -,., , ^,._: INCLUDING ll^.'l ft -.11 5*.-»?.l .4« ^ccouut of the present Stnte of those Countries, their Productions, Arts, Mannfacturcn nni Commerce; with Obaervalions on the Manners and Customs of the TURKS and ARABS. . , '•■' ^. ;, ' ■ MYM. €. F, rOLJVEY, ''';; 'l 'i''"^,--'."' ' ■ '! ' '• '' i! ' . ■'' ■• -I' ';'i"-"' i^ TWO votUMEi*. ''"'"•''♦"'■ ''■*''J''t>''':,4"'''" >'n-n '.. ■ -■ '•} '11 'i 1 • V ',: '.I ■■(..■.. 1 •.'<'/!!( •ft. -.ll» 'iV i;ave no other clothing than a blue shirt, fasi^iiod with a Icatlicm girdle, or a red handkerchief; while the universal marks of misery, so apparent in ail he meets, and the reigning mystery around their houses, make evident the rapacity of oppression, and the distrust attendant upon slavery. In our country, ruins are an object of curiosity ; but in Alexandria, we no sooner leave the new town, that we are astonished at the sight of an immense evtentof ground overspread with ruins; the earth is covered with the remains of lofty buildings destroyed ; whole fronts crumbled, down, roofs fallen in, battlenients decayed, and the stones corroded. The traveller passes over an extensive plain, furrowed with trenches, pierced with wells, divided by walls in ruins, covered with ancient columns, and modern tombs, amidst palm-trees and nopals*, where no living creature appears, but owls, bats, and jackal Is. Alexandria is, at present, the emporium of a considerable commerce. It is the harbour for all the commodities exported from Egypt, by the Mediterranean, except the rice of Damietta. The Europeans have establishments there, and factors dispose of their merchandize by barter. It is constantly visited by vessels from Marseilles, Leghorn, Venice, Ragiise, and the dominiong of the Grand Seignor ; but it is dangerous to winter there. The new port, which is the onlj harbour for th*? Europeans, is clogged up with sand, insomuch, that, in foggy weather, ships are liable to bil^i. ; and the bitttom being also rocky the cables soon chate and part. The old port, tht entrance to which is covered by a neck of land called the Cape of Figs, is not subject to this inconvenience; but the Turks admit no -'• ■' 1" ,;i',}i\:,\ Iq ffM'.'l *>■ I ..'! i'.: ^;y * Th« corlMHcal trae. ■hips \ ' ! . « I , 1 m i:«,.r' ■f )■ S'i "I r :W. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V /^ 1.0 tt Itt |2.2 Mui- lltt I.I 1.25 ■^ — 6" ► ^^# ^ ii.'^ s^ 7 y /^ Photographic Sciences Corporation \ ^^ N? C V ^ ?3 Wi«T Md^N STMIT WEBS.^^.N.Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 6^ <- >^^, & 246 VOLNKYVS TRAVEIJ?' TMr'OUGn ships into it but those of MiissQlinen. If Coro- peaiis express their surprise that the new pprt is not rcpuirei], tlie answer is obvious, that, in Turkey they destroy every thing, and repair nothinjj. Tlie spirit of tlie Turkish government is to ruin the labours of past ages, and destroy the hopes of future times, the barbarity of ig- norant despotism never thinking about to- morrow*. The Kalidj alone connects Alexandria with Egypt; for, from its situation without the Delta, and the nature of the soil, it certainly belongs to the deserts of Africa. We do not indeed really enter Egypt till we arrive at Rosetta; there the sands peculiar to Africa end, And a black, fat, loamy soil begins: there also for the first time, we behold the waters of the cele- brated Nile ; the woods of palm-trees tm each side, the orchards, refreshed by its streams, the lemon, the orange, the banana, the peach, and other trees, by their perpetual verdure, fender llosetta astonishingly delightful, its beauties being still more charming by its contrast with Alexandria. As we ascend the river tve acquire some ge- neral idea of the soil, the climate, and the pro- i' jtions of this celebrated country. All this part t>f Egypt is so level and so low that it aifords very little prospect of the country, and offers very little variety. Nothing is to be seen but palm-trees, single, or in clumps, which gra- dually become fewer as you advance: wretched villages of mud wallfd huts; till at length, to- wards the jtmction of the two branchrs of the river, the mountains of Grand Cairo are dis- covered in the east, and to the south-west three detached masses appciar, which, from their tri- angular form, are known to be the pyramids f. it is not the same in Turkey aS in Europe: with us, travels are agreeable excursions; but * In time of war, Alexandria is of no importance; no fortification is to be seen : even the Mty Pharos, with its aspiring towers, cannot be defended. It has not four cannon fit for service, nor any gunner capable of pointing them. The nominal fire hundred Janisarics, which shonld form a garrison^ are now reduced to about half that num. hpr, and know nothing but how to smoke a pipe A tingle Russiin or Maltese frigate would bo able to lay it in ashes ; but the conquest would ba of no value, as the country is i^ithout water. This must be brought from the Nile by the Kalidj, a canal of twelve leagues, which conyeys it thither annually at the time of the inundation, and fills the re- scrvoirs due under the ancient city, which must supply 3 there they are ditHcult and dangerous undeN takings, especially for Europeans, yv^otn the superstitious natives supp;)se to be sorcereri, come to discover by magic, treasures "which t^ Genii have concealed under the mine.. This ri- dici''ous opinion deprives the traveller of security, and prevents every discovery. No one presuwcj even to walk alone in the fields; nor can he pre- vail on any person to accompany him. We arc therefore limited* to the banks of the river, a route frequented by every one, and which conse- 'quently can afford no new information. It is oniv by comparing what we have seen ourselves, with the observations made by others that some general ideas can be acquired. After having made this comparison, we shall find reason to conclude that the basis of all Egypt, from Asouan to the Mediterranean, is a continued bed of calcareous stone, of a whitish hue, containing shells analagous to those found in the two neighbouring 8eas|. This quahtyis discoverable in the pyramids, and on the Lybian rock on which they stand. The same kind of stone is also found in the catacombs of Alex- andria, and in the projecting shelves upon the coast. Copper is the only metal of this country mentioned by the ancients. The two lakes of Natron, described by Father Sicard, are more interesting objects: they are situated in the desert of Shayat, or St. Macarin?, to the west of the Delta. Their bed is a sort of a natural trench, three or four leagues long, by a quarter wide, with » hard and stony bottom. It continues dry nine months in the year, but in winter water of a reddish violet colour oozes from it, which fills the lake to the height (if five or six feet: the return of the great heats causing this to evaporate, a bed of salt remains about two feet thick, and very hard, which is broken with bars of iron. Thirty thousand them till the next year Hence it is evident, that were a foreign power to take possession, the canal w^uld be shut, and the supplies of water cut off. f To give a description of Egypt in .a few words, let the reader imagine, on one side, a narrow sea and rocks; on the other, immense plains of sand, and, in tho middle, a river flowing through a valley of one- hundred and fifty leagues in length, and from throe to seven wide, which, at thirty leagues from the sea, separates into two arms, the branbhes of which wander ov ;• a cauntrjr where thty meet with no obstacles, a.id whieh is almost without declivity. I These shells consist principally of echim, Tolulcs, bi> valves, ftud a ipeciei iu the form of lentils. A quintals ^(T-IV. 8TttrA ANto EGYP1. Ui1 gtiMnh «fe' ifi^rifcurcd' 'fVo^, t^W eiiWV VM' ibi: With snlf, is' camdn thf bdgh^Ut ^ll' EktJt. ncnl pf^Afri'ci iiwl ArAbi'a, seems eirtieir to bfc' cnmprtscfl of^salt; or trt pbdiicc it; .. In ll<6 rtiiisi of 'tfiese tnJhi^rals, aiid of tWl jliiB' re^tfish t'6!o\jr*d *knd' peculiar to Africa, the earth of )tfte valley- tliroug)^ ift^ch the Nile flow^, dftt'^Vfers pt'(^f»(E!rlies^whftIr prttVe it of a' disiljiftcli^s. ' IfsMtfi^kish cotoot*, ahd i<8't'laV«fy tciWtHirtg quklity^ jirocfafd t^ foWt^h oHgii^^' Itisbrtfnght tiyiWe river from the'hieart of AbjfS- sinia, ati.ii^natiire bad r(»olved to' form a habita- ble island in a coontry; to which she had ficni^tf every tiiip^. Without this uncti^Uin Oiiid, Egyt>t nev«ckii>iy'h'aV€J pi-o!d[uCed ariy tfiiii^; that alone itmi t6 corttalii Ae seeds of v<*geli?tioti ahd' fe-^ ftindity; and' thpscf are also indebted' to' tllfiie'rivfef^' by wfiith it is d^^owtcdi ...... .. The whol^ pnjsicAl jintl political c'xjsferijfe of Effyj^tdcpeiids ufj'oft the Nile; that alx^rtJi pro-' vidcs for the greatest necefieitj of ahimaV lifej > thcfs are seen 0liihginf( thi^if chHdrcft in'thc'sVrcnift, from a firm boKcf that tht-se wafer* hiiro a purifying and dtViiie tlrlne, luch a« the aocicnte attributed to iiTi;ry rivur. Earthen vetKclit, unglaS|N), arc usually licpt in every apartment, from ^cnc^ thp fvater coatiuually tranapiroi: this traus|)1rut{on pruducri thu mure ruolncas, ' in propbir. tiun as it Is mitre c'«n!iiiIer~aT)Te;, therefore tl^Ptc tcsscIa are ofli-n sii!<|)ui'idi-'d (u uEissagcs, 'where there are current^ of air, and uiidi^r the shade of trees. In many parts of Syria, tlicy driiilk. the water which has transpired; In iRgyptthey dritilc (hat which remains; besides, in no country Is so much water iiacd. The first thing an I'.gy ptian does, on entering I house, is to %y ,h\)Iil of tFie kolla (,th.! pitcher of water) and takuabciirty dpaught'of it; and thai \s to the , p^rpb^iial MTspiraliun, they fcut no inconTcoience from the practice. But, in the midst of our panegyric, trdtli requires ut to do^^ I cUiii, tliat, for six months of the year, tlio water o^iHii rWor Vot. II. No. LXXXIV. if ^rt^briate feasop, therefore, ihii river has b( sailed the soiirce i^ plenty, of happincssj. vind iijiii8eir*.,,;:\_^. , ., ., ,, '...^ , . ;\, , ,^ , B'tit never will thi^s*^ tiitiddy waters t^li^ v^^. ap'lSur6ped,n the ch^rra of transparent ,foiiut(||u4 iM'id'''liinpidi str'cains; nev^r, e;i|'cept {rQm .somp. extrau^qiqary 'inciteineilit, will a swarthy Egypr . tian' woiiian, dripping froth these yiellow an4( muddv .vvttters, r(pmpf(. hup of t^^^ hatili^g: 'The ndhUeirtjr winds,' Wji^li pibw annuatly al certain periods^ : (;i^rry into Ahyuiiila a vase du^nUty of cl'o^uds : frotp AprU> to July we actf- tneqa ihcessantty ascending towards the south, and inight be ijitiiiced to expect raiii from them; but this parc|ied country, can receivq i)0 ^ne-- faction from them bu|t,^nder a difi^r^'ltt fii^^^ Ifil^ summer it never rains'.in the 0el'tfi| '^w /hu^ rair'ely, aiid in small quantities, durins'' (tie M'libiie cuuir'i^e of the j ear. It is also^pieirlain ibi^]^ iL raini» still less as you a8ceii4 tpN^^'rdla.the ,|^Jd:. raiii'js therefore more fV'^quQhjt': at j^l^xaii^cifk and Hoseita thaii ai Cajro,' and at' (Jairp tHanal M'iniah;' an^\ it alipost a prodigy at. Djirda.' fhe iiihabitanU ,of jiurafd countfies, indeeij, canpnt conceive It posstbt'e to subsist, witnoui raioJ\ but in Egypt, exclusive of iht; water witicn thf earth iiiiuibe^, at the, rnq^dation,. Uie dews which'^d'escend' in' suinqnerjPiikht Be sufr flcicnt for vegetation., .^This rs.suraciently p.rpvc4 by their ^aier melons, for when 'f hoy. bavepn'.yf a dfry dust under tliem, their' leaves aire alwaya (resh. It is also ap parent th»t. these devvs, as is (6^ thick, that it mnsttu- al!(iwctl tinie to'tettic, l>My>re i^ oaa iHiidruali. During' thlo three months wbidh precede the inundation, the stream -becomes reduced ,to aa Incionsiderabit iopt^^ and iippfarj^ ^reeo^ fotid, and full' of wyjcj^i •copio of , dblic^cy, at all times, talie care to pcrfunie it, ant( co^l it liy eraporation. Bitter almoudt arc sometimes utod.to purify this water, with «rhich the «cksi*I should btf well rulibcd, and the* the beverage roallK becomes ligtit ami good. , , f A long altercation then asiscs between M. Savary anj M. Volney, respecting the risij of the Delta, and Tftrious authors on ^l^c subjcpt arp ri^sijectsrely cited: as Herodotus^ TiibUothcuue, Oiicntuleof l^' llcrkelol. Dr. Shaw' i TVavcU^ Kalkafcmlas, Dr.Vofock'fTm-aclii, M.Nwbuhr, DemotrU ' tusf Sfc. but th^ editor of this abridgment could not feel himself justified io giving a positive conclasioa on this cua> tested matter. I '\Vhen rain falls in Kgyptand in P^ettinc, it dilTases general joyamoitg the people: they aiscpible together in the streets, singing and cKuui^ug t/e allahJ ye morattcf That is to lay, O Godl Blessed! &c. 3 R vrell ""c: :!:! \v>:^\ 2i8 VOLNEY'S THAVELS THHOUGH well as the rains, are more copious in proportion to their proximity to the sea. The dewg, as well as the rains, are also more or less plentiful, ac- cording to (he prevailing wind: The southerly and the soutti-easterfy^ produce none; the north wind occasiqiis a great deal, and the westc.ly still more: the two former proceed from the deserts ot Africa and Arabia, .which afford not a drop of water ; while the northerly and weiteHy winds convey over Egypt the vapours from the Mediterranean,. >vhich the first crosses, and the lattei* traverses length' ways. , , •Th^ southerly .winds, which I have aibntioned, are kdiown 'in Egypt by the general name of Winds of !F{fii/ Dai/s ; aoi because they continue ^fiftj/ days, without intermission, but from their prevailing mbre frequently in the fifty days pre- ceding atid following the equinox. They are by s6me diendininated poisonous lofnda, or more cor- rectly Aof wi'n^ of the desert. Their heat is jibmetidned do ekctesive, that it is difficult to form an idea of its violence, without having experienced it ; but it itiay be compared to the heat of a large ftveh at the monient' of draWing out the bread. When these winds b^gin to blow,' the atn^isphere assumes an alarming aspect. The sky, which at other times is clear in this climate, be<;omefl dt^rk and heavy; and the sun, having lost his splen- dour, appears of a violet colour; and, the air, though not' cloudy, seems impregnated with subtle duk. It is not, ^t first, remarkably hot, but gradually becomes so; and respiration is ren- dered short and difllicult; the skin is parched and dty: a too rarefied uir prevents the expansion of the lungs, and they are found painful. Large draughts of (Water are found ineffectual to restore perspiration; and every substance deceives the hand which touches it. Even in the absence of the sun, marble, iron, and water feel hot: the streets are deserted, and universal silence reigns. The inhabitants of towns and villages shut thcm- lelves up in their habitations, and tliose of the • But these hot win^Is are not peculiar to Egypt; thry also blow ill Syria iM. Niebuhr m6t with tljotn in Arabia, at Bombay, and in the Diarb«ki. They arc also known ia Persia, in the rest of Africa, and CTcn In Spain.. Tho climnto of Egypt is certainly extremely hot, for in July and Angict Keaiimur's thernomcter stands in the most temperate apartments, at 24 and 'iS degreed above tho freexing poiflt. In the Said, it rises still higher. Two seasons only should be distinguished in Egypt, the Spring and hammer, that is to say, the C'oo/ Season and the Hot. 3 desert in their tents, or in pits formed in theeuth where tber retnain till the termination of thii i^ structive beat. The duration of it is utuall* about three days; but, if it exceeds that tinJ it becomes insupportable. Woe to the traveller whom this wind surprizes remote from shelter as the worst of consequences frequently ensue! This wind is particularly fatal to persons of | plet'ioric habit, and such as have destroyed the 1,0 ae it f 'the vessels by fatigue. Much of the danger, upon these occasions, qtay . be avoided i.^y stopping the nose and mouth with handker- chiefs: the camels practice a very efiScacioui method to guard against this pestif^roui effluvium, by burying their noses in the saod, and continuing there till the squaU is over. Its extreme avidity is another eztraordinarj quality : if water is sprinkled on the floor, it evaporates in a few minutes. Its astonighing dryness withers and strips all the plants, closes the pores of animal bodies, and occasions that feverish beat which is the effect of suppreswd perspiration*../ It might naturally be imagined that Egypt, oi account, of the excessive heats, and its moist marshy condition for three months, must be ag unhealthy country. This indeed was my iirst idea on my arrival there; but when I observed at Cairo the houses of Eurppc^an merchants ranged along the Kalidy, where the water stagnates till the month pf April, I conceived that the exhala- tions thence arising, iniist create many inaladiet: but experience taught me the fallacy of this theory. Though the vapours of the stagnant waters are so fatal in Cyprus, and Alexaiidretta, they are not so pernicious in Egypt. This secoit to be owing M the'nalural dryness of the air, to the proximity oif Africa and Arabia, which in- cessantly draws off the humidity, and the per- petual currents of the wind which is never op- posed. So great is their avidity, that flesh meat exposed, even in suinmer, to the north wind, The latter continues from March till JPfoveqiber ; and efcn from the end of February, the sun is not supporlabio, fur an European, at nine o'clock in the morning. During tht wholo of this season, tho Leat is oppressire to. all unac customed to it. Even tho lightest dress, in a stale of pru. found repose, occasions tho body to sweat profusely; aud this perspiration is found so esaonlially necessary, that the slightsst suppression of it is a serious malady. The de- parture of the sun, howoTer, ia some degree, tempenl thete heats. does, SYRIA AND EGYPT. S4S does not putrif^« but dries up, and becomes as bard as wood. In the deserts dead bodies of aniui^t^ are found dried in this niiinner^ which bave bv dr^'iog bo far lost their ponderosity, tlmt a man ta%y easilj lift with one hand the body of a camel*. In addition to this drying quahty, the air of (his country seems to be strongly impregnated nfith salts, the proofs of which are every where apparent. The stones are corroded by natrum, aad in moist places, crystallizations of it are often found, wnich might be taken for salt-petre. It is doubtless this property of the air and earth, which, added to the heat, gives vegetation an activity whieh appears almost incredible to inha- bitants of cbWer eUmates. Wherever plants bave water, the rapidity of their growth is asto- oiihiog- In Cairo, or Knsetta, the gourd lulled karcif will, in twentv-four hours, emit or send out shoots near four inches long. It is however, evident that this soil ' unfavourable to all exotics ; foreign pUnts degenerate there very rapidly; the truth of which is proved by daily eiperience. Amid tjies^ revolutions which all nations have experienced, these are few countries which have preserved their original inhabitants more pure and unmixt than that of Egypt. Though de- prived, twenty-three centuries ago, of her natural proprietors, she. has seen her fertile fields suc- cessively a prey to the Persians, the Macedonians, (he Romans, the Greeks, the Arabs, and the Georgians, and at Ipngth the Tartars, distinguish- ed by the name of Ottoman Turks. Several of these nations have left vestiges of their ttansient possessions; but they have been so blended and confounded in succession, that it is rendered difficult to discriminate their respectivecbaracters. \>(j may, however, still distinguish the inhabi- tants of Egypt into four principal races, of dif- ferent origin : The lirst, and most general dispersed, is that of the Arabs, which niay be divided into three classes. First the posterity of those who, on the conq^e8t of Egypt by Amrou, hastened to settle it his country, so justly celebrated for its fer- tility. This first race is preserved in the present class of fellahs or husbandmen, and artizans, who * It should be observed, howevur, that the air near the Ktismnch drier than that which \% higher up the country : tliDS, at Alexandria and Rosotta, iron cannot be exposed tweoty-four hours in the air without becoming rusty. still retain the features of their ancestors, but are taller and stronger, having a supply of more plentiful nourishment than that of the deserts. The Egyptian peasants in general reach the height of five feet four inches, and many among them attain to five feet, six or seven inches. They are muscular, but not corftulent. Their skin, by the. influence of the sun is almost black, but their countenances are not disagreeable. Most of them have heads of a fine oval, with large projecting foreheads: under a dark eye-brow: they have n black, sunken, but brilliant eye; the nose large, well-shaped mouths, and excel- lent teeth. Those of the villages, forming no alliances, but in their own families, have more general characteristics, and something ferocious in their air, originating in the passions of a mind^ soured by the perpetual war and tyranny which surround themf. A second class of Arabs is that of the Africans, who have arrived at different periods, and under differient chiefs, and united themselves to the former; like them, they are descended from the Mussulmen conquerors, who expelled the Greeks, from Mauritania; like them they practice agri- culture and trades, and are numerous in the Said, where they have villages. The third class is that of the BcdouinsX, known to the ancients by the name of Semites, dwellers in tents. Sonne of these inhabit the rocks, caverns, and sequestered places, where water is 'to be procured; others, united in tribes, pass their days in perpetual joiirncyings, sometimes in the desert and sometimes on the banks of the river; consulting principally their own safety, and the sub- sistence of their flocks. Many tribes arrive every }ear after the inundation, from the heart of Africa, to enjoy the fertility of the country, and in the spring retire into the depths of the deserts : others arc stationary in Egypt, where they farm lands, which they sow, and annually change. They confine themselves to certain limits, on pain of war, and their manners and customs are gene- rally similar. Ignorant and poor, they preserve a kind of original character distinct from sur-. rounding nations. Pacific in their cauip, they are hostile every where else. The husbandmen, + Near fire feet eight, and five feet ten or cIctl-h i.. iics, English measure; the FrtMich foot (meant through tliis translation) being to the I'.iiglish as 144 to 135. X Formed of 6i(/, detertf u country witiiout habitations. whom 11 m Wmlr* K; '!f^«' I!';! f'ill 111 ,1 i ill iio VOUiETS TRAVELS^ THROUGH ivliom ttiey pilla^. detest fhera ; tlie travellers, \vhum they plunder, resent their treatment: and tlie Turks, knowing too many of their artifices, endeavour to divitu' and corrupt thoni. The difi'erent tribe* of Bedouins in Egypt, are sup- posed to amount to a body of thirty thousand horsemen; but they arc dispersed and diHunited that they are only considered as vagabonds and robbers. A second race of inhabitants are the Copts, of whom several families are to be found in the Delta.; though the greater part of them inhabit the Said, where they occupy whole villages. They descended from the people who were con- quered by the Arabs; that is. from a mixture of Egyptians, Persians, and Greeks, who, under the Ptoieiaies and Constantines were so long in possession of Egypt. They differ from the Arabs by their religions, which is Christianity ; and tliev are distinct from other Christians, by being Eutychians: their heresy has drawn per- secutions on them on the part of the other Greeks, which has: rendered thorn irreconcilcable enemies. When the Arabs subdued the country, they look advantage of these animosities, to enfeeble them both. The Copts, have, at len^h, expelled their rivals, and become the depositories of the re- gisters of the lands and tribes. Under the ap- pel'ation of Writers, at Cairo, they are the secre- taries and collectors of government. These writers form a kind of separate class, the head of which is the wri^ to the principal Bey, who disposes of all employments in that department, which, with the true spirit of the Turkish gov- ernment, he bestows on the best bidder. Th" Copts are properly the remains of the ancient Egyptians*. This is rendered more probable, by considering the distinguishing features of this race of people: they are characterized by a sort of yellowish dusky complexion; with a puffed visage, . swoln eyes, flat noses, and thick lips: they have indeed the exact countenam-c of a Mulatto^. It may, indeed, be laid down as a geaeral 'principle, that features are a kind of • This is the more probable, as they wcrcitr the Said bp. tote the time of Diurlcsian; and it is ccrtaio the Grrclis were less numerous in the Hnid tbaa in (ho Ut-ita •I- The eonntenonce of the Negroes ret>rd.*ciitR proeiseiy that state of contrttction which ow faces assume when strongly aflfected by heat. The eyo>brOirs arc' knit, the cheeks riso^ the ey^.lids are contracted, aMd the month liktoftf^ This state of contraction, to which the features monument, capable, in marcy'lcMfb^/ itfiit^tll^ti ing the testimony of history, cbticerhti^'^ the crimg of nations. Travellers who pat^ from Normandt to Denmark, sef, wit'h astonishment/ the' ir,'pj| resemblance of tlie' inhabitants of tht'se two coiir.trioa, which still subsists, nntwithsfandin'^ the distance of limes" lind places. Do «ot the Je\vj», wherever they reside, carry with them distinguishing marks never to be effaced? Language may bp considered as artother mnnn. ment equally capabje of eli/cidating and confictn. ing the testimony of history: that ftVrmerly spoken by the Copts is a cbntlt'matibW of thij remark. The form of their lettr rs, and the great- er part of their words, shew, that th^ Greek nai tion, during the period of two thousand jeari that it continued in Egy(>t has leflf: ir^ref^^abl^ marks of its influence and power. The AVabs,' at length, disdaining the language of thenationi they subdued, intrposed on theOi the necCSKity of learning tflat of fh^ir conquerors. Prom that time the Arabic became universal; and the other languages, coniincd' to books, subsistet^ Qnly for the learned, who deserted thAin. Stich Has bAeeu the fate of the Coptic, that the priest^ no longer understand it; and io Egypt, as id Syria, everr one, vt'hethcr Malrometan or Christian, speak* Arabic, hardly any otliei'' language being under- stood. But, to rcturu to my subject, a third race of inhabitants in Egypt are the Turks, who, if they are not masters of the countt'y, it least possess that title. The name of Turk, originally, vat not peculiar to the nation to which it is now gene- rally applied: it signified, in general, all the hordes scattered in the east, and' even to the north of the Caspian Sea. These are (he people who were known to the Ancient Greeks by the names of Parthians, or Scythians, for wliich that of Tartars has been substituted; a -nation of wandering shepherds, like the Bedouin Arahs. They have, in every age, been brave and formi- dable, insomuch that neither Cyrus nor Alex- ander were able to subdue them. But the A^abt arc perpetnaily exposed in the hot ctimatce of the negroes, h become the peciHiar characteriitic Of theit c<>antenaiic(. Kxrcssivc cold, wind, and snow, produce the same cfi'ect, aitd thus we discover the faces among the* Tartars; wliilt ill tku temperate zoaet, where tiieso ettremci are iinknowp,. i th« fcalnros are Icngtiienedt the eyes less promiacDt, and ; th'j ^ho)« eonat^nanee is moro exiModed. SYHTA AND EGYPT. 251 ttte mon successful. About eighty years after Wahomet. tlicy invaded, under '-he direction of [he Calipli Waled I, the country of tlie Turks, lorcibly imposed on them their rehgion, and fcblice" *^*"" ^^ P*y tribute. But confusion laking p'^ce in the empire, the rebel governors lad recourse to their aid to resist the power of [lie Caliphs, and they engaged in every contest. rinis initiated, and furnished with arms, they oon became a warlike people; and, like the Be- jjouins, were divided into camps. These tribes, feither as allies or enemies, according to their re- fcpective interests, yere perpetually engaged in Rars. Hence, in their history, several nations trere equally called Turks, alternately attacking, Rcstroying, and expelling each other. e shall bcrefore, to prevent misapprehensions, cotifine llie name of Turks to those of Constantinople, [iving - dunce of pasturage for his catde. The good conduct of this chi^f caused his alliance to be sought by all the neighbouring princes. Among these was the Turkman, Ala-el-diu, Siiitaii of Iconium, who,'finding himself old, granted lands to the Turks under Ertogrul, and appointed their chief general of all his troops. Ertogrul proved that (he confidence of the Sultan was nut misplaced, by vanquishing the Moguls, and in other respects acquired great honour utid rcpiitao- tion. On his death, his honours were trunsmilted to his son Osman; who was also complimented with the Kofetan, drum, and horse-tails, sym- bols of command among all the Tartars. This Osman, to distinguish the Turks, his followers, gave them the name of Osmanhs, from whjth we have made Oltovians. In 1300 he assumed the dignity of Sultan, which gigniHcs absotulu sovereign. His successors continued to aggrandize them- selves at the ^xpcnce of the Greeks; till, con- tinually depriving thetii of whole provinces in Europe and Asia, they at length shut them up within the walls of Constantinople: and Ma- homet II. having taken that city in 1453, anni- hilated this branch of the Roman empire. The Turks, being now disengaged from (he ad'airs of Europe, turned their arms against the southern provinces. Bagdad, subjugated by the Tartars, had been long without Caliphs; but a new power in Persia had succeeded (o a part of their do- mains; and another, subsisting al that time under the name of Mamelukes, had seized on Syria. Tuc Turks wished to check the ambition of these two rivals: Bayazid, the son of Mahomet, executed a part of this phin, by taking Armenia from the So(i of Persia, and Selim his son com- pleted it, by subduing^ the Mamcltikes. This Sultan, having prevailed on them to approach Aleppo, in 1.^17, under pretext of soliciting their assistance in the war against Persia, suddenly turned his arms against them, and took from thorn successively Syria and Egypt. From (hat period the Turks' established themselves in that country; but they are not very numer'ius among the villages. Individuals of vhat na(iun are sel- dom met with, but at Cairo, where they exercise the arts, and occupy the religious and military employments. Formerly they were admitted to offices under government, but, within the last 3 S thirty lil ii viU ■) 252 VOLNEY'i TRAVELS THROUGH thirfy yi^ars. n tacit revolution has taken place, ^liich hna deprived them of the reality of power, without taking from them the title. This revolution was etl'ectcd hy a fourth and hat racle ; the individuals of svhich were born at the foot of Mount CaucaHUs: t< ey are distinguish- ed from the other inhabitants by the colour of their hair, which is fluxen, and entirely diflerent from that of the natives of Cgy|it These weni distin{<;uiBhed by the Crusaders lo'the thirtQeiull century, and called by them M»melu{(eg; aful reraaininK almost in a state of annihilation y two hundred and thirty years, under the govei|,| ment of the Ottomans, they may be &aid to Idm| regained their consequeace. SECTION II. ,4 Summary of the History of the Mamelukes— The Present State of Egypt — Military Conttitu^Ji of the Mamelukes — Thcr Accoutrements — Education — Manners, THE Greeks of Constantinople, under a de- spotic ;ind bigoted government, let the finest provinces of their empire, during the course of the seventh century, fall a prey to a new peo- ple. The Arabs, though inflamed by fanaticism, and corrupted by luxuries to which they had befen unaccustomed, conquered,within eig^y years, the north of Africa, and the soutlrof Asia, as far as the river Indus: but though the Arabs knew how to conquer, they were strangers to the 9rt of governing, and their ediBce of power soon mouldered into ruins. The vast empire of the Caliphs, passing from de!)potism co anarchy, be- camedismen)bered on every side; and the temporal governors every where erected themselves into £0vereigns, and formed independent states'*. Ad'had-el-din, the hist of (hat race, after hav- ing been invaded by the crusaders, who had im- posed on him a tribute, one of his generals, whom he had dismissed his service, threatened to di^prive him of a power of which he seemed absolutely unworthy. Knowing he could not { confide in a nation, which his conduct had ' Alieuiiled from him, he had recourseto foreigners. ; * But thong'i K^ypt was not the tist to follow this ex. (BRipIp, it was not till 069, tliat a rcgiklar power was csta- blish.il in^that caimtry, in the uersoit of princos, who, as. ■umlni; tiic na nc of Fatmitc Caliphs, disputed the title of thi'ir diguHy with th'jse of Bngdad. The latter, then strip. , ped of th.ir authority by the Tnrkinen soldiers, could no • long' r oppose thrir pretensions; and th'is tUe Egyptian ; Caliphi peaceably obtainetl posse^bion of that rich country, ; of which they might have formetl a jiowciful state. But the ; soTorcigns of. t^^ypt^ no Itus despotic tbiii those of Bagdad, | He called in the tribe of Turkmans who hidc^l slaved the Bagdad Caliphs, and implored M sovereign of Aleppo, to send an army intniyl country. These troops speedily delivered AdMl from the tribute, and the roenaces of ihe generii,! But the Caliph soon discovered that be bad onlJ changed his eneBii«s : they left biro snlv ty shadow of power; and Sekh -« who corresponded vitb the eoasts of the Caspian Sea, saw they had now an opportunity of formin^j?. at a cheap rate, a fine body of soldiers of tried courage, one of (belli purchased twelve thousand of these ypung fata, who were Circa«Ri»aSi Mingrelians* and Abazaas. He caused them (d be trained up to isjiit^y exercises, and be itbua obtained a body of the handsomest, and best soldiers in Asia, th«ugh they were fiirtinous wi upe^perienctd. This soldiery, like tke Preioriao bands, ii>« short tiiM gave laws to their maatv: tj^ey gnayr miore ia«o1ant under his au^oewOr. wh9in tbey deponed in 1350, and slew the lastTuskmM priiiQ^i 4ub- ititttting ond of their owiP'«biefi, witih t^i^ tH\fi of SuHan; rttainicg to ibemsclvei that of Miuiie- liikts, which signijies piiUtary sUvfs*. In the year Ift^n, Selim, Sult»o of the OUona^ixs, U*ing sieized «nd Jukoged TouoM Bey, tj^e Jasjt chief of the Mainclukest, put » if mod t» ib<^ iyaasty. To conceive the nature of this revolution, leit III consider the manner in which the Mamelvkes tre continued and multiplied in Egypt- Ou iflding them resident in thi? country for several • Wi(l)Out any other public right to authority, th^n that p( ronquest, thc.Mameluki-s hnu no other rulu of c6nduct and govcrnmdnt,'' than that of a lirentioni and insolent ioMiery. The firsf leadkr wh^Mn they elected, whose tur- buleat spirit was eioploytjd ip the conquest of Syria, rei/^nuU t^f^teoii years; but not cine of them has since governed so lung; tho bow-string, poi'jii, the sword, orprivalis ussassi. «atioii, having been the fate of a series of tyrants ; forty, fovtm of whom are enumerated ia the space of two huiidixd and fifiy-seven years. + The Turks, howcTer, are not diiliciilt to piiiasc : if a voman is fair, they pronounce her handsome ; and if she be fat, she is enchanting : " Her counfenance is like the full moon: her haunches nre lilie cushions," say they, to express the superlative of beauty. They may be said to measure them by the qui»Utl. They have besides a proverb wprtjty the notice of Qa,ti>ralists : '* Tike a fair fcinale for centuries, it poems reasouable to imagiire their race is preserved by tliu ordinary means; but if their first establishment was a singular event, their continuation is at least equally so. Though there have been Manielukes in Egypt upwards of five hundretl and fifty ypars, not one of them has left subsisting iWne: not a single family of tlicm exists in the seco'id gen,qration : all their children perish in the f <-s|t or secopd descent. The same is also asserted >yith regard to the Turks f; and it is observed, that their only method of securing the continuance of jlheir families, is to marry women, who are natives, which the Mamelukes have always disdained. Le^ the naturalist expliiin why men, fp^rri/^d to Wealthy ^oifien, are unable to n^turaliz^ on ^^e ^ai^ks of jtli,e Nile, a race born at the fpojt qf Moifoi P^u/cajSus!— And let it be rejpembe^ed* tha|t ihfi pla^s of Europe, in that copplry, tjire eqt|i.a.l)y pnabje jto continue their ^ccjcs! Sprnje peraons piay not believe this extr^ordipary faf;t,,byt it i^ not, oo that account, the less certain, npr does it appear to be new. The ancipo^ h^vis .made obs^eryat^ui^ of the same patijire. , ' ' The Sultan's prders ^re receivejd< as they ex^ press it, on the head^nA qn t^e eyf^; ihaX is ^ritb the greatest I'espect; hut this appearance of reve- reuce is pot Pibqdieptly 4t(^ndc)d to^ Abiding by jier usM«l inplii^, i^^ ^orjifi is blind i,o J^ianv ftbiU^Pj W^l}Liv>mag, ]th«it ^o corriect t^«p, ^ilt require icxjifpfive efforts, and prob^Iy an ojien w^r, in,\vhi(^h jthf dignity of the empire migl^ sufler. Ufi^nt afiVirs, for some years past, hav/e also made it pecessary to collect all their forces thy eyety but f0|r pleasure an Egyptian." Rxperlencc has proTdd to them tlia^V'the northern women are colder thi^n those of the south. Since the revuiution of Ibrahim Kisya, tho Ottoman power h.-i8 bccooe (pprc precarious in i^gypt titan in any other province. The Porte, indeed, still retains a Pacha there: but this Pacha watched in the castle of Cairo, is rathi-r the prisoner of the Mamelukes, that the representa. tive of the Sultan. He is deposed, exiled, or expelled at pleisure ; nud, merely by ih6 summons of a herald, clothed in black, 'must 'instantly descend* from bis high station. Some Pachas, chosen for that purpose by the Porte, have endeavoured, by intrigues, to'i;ecoTer the power formeily dnnexed to their title ; but the beys have now rendered such attempts so dan <;crou*, that they quietly submit to their throe years' captivity, and confit;c themselves to the peace- able enjoyment of their salary and craolumcnts. h I ! I, Xi • 7%e formulan/ of tkposUion comisU in the word mttel, that it, descend fnm t^ wstk. towards t ' M S54 VOLNEY'8 TRAVELS tHtlOUGH towards tlift north. Deairoiis of brstowing; Jhc utmost atteiitidii to Constuntinoplp, they leave the restoration of their authority in thft distant provinces to time and the course of events. They find it necessary, however, (o ci-eate divi^ sioijii among; the rival partieii, that none of them may acquire an established power; a practice that is fuuiid beneficial to the state, as well as advantageous to the great officers, who derive large emoluments from the rebels, by purchasing their influence and protection. The Muiuelukes, on obtaining the government of Egypt, adopted measures calculated to secure them the possession of the country They im- mediately degraded the military corps of the Azabs ai\ji Janissaries: these two bodies, formerly the terror of the Pacha, are now as insignificant as himself. Of this the corrupt government of the Turks has been the principal cause; for, previous to the insurrection of Ibrahim Kiaya, the number of 'Ciirkish troops, which should consist of foirty thousand men, had been reduced to half that number, by the avarice of their ofiicers, who appropriated the pay to their own use. After Ibrahim, Ali Bey completely terminated their consequence. He first displaced all the officeis whose conduct he did not per- fectly approve, and left unfilled the places that became vacant, deprived the ' ^''^Tiauders of all influence^ and so effectually .aded all the Turkish troops, that at this du^ ae Janisiaries, the Azabff, and the five other corp&, are a mere rabble of artizans and vagabonds, who guard the gates of those who pay them, and tremble in the presence of the Mamelukes, as. much as the po- pulace of Cairo. The whole military force, of Egypt really cf'nsist in the Mamelukes; some hundreds of them are dispersed throughout the Country, and in the villages, to support the au- * But by proper management, aqd liberal presents, stratu gets of consequence, who caiu« only to Tisit tliu country, may be excused from this humiliating restriction. Lord Algernon Purcy, now Lord Louvaine, and the l)at\ of Clare- niont, obtained permission to ride on hjrseback in 177C. The dress of the Mamelukes consists .-^f a Hide shirt of thin cotton, of a yellowish colour, over which tiicy wear an Indian linen gown, or a sort of gown made of the light stulTs of Da^nascus and Aleppo. Thisi robe, which is called a/Uarif reaches from the neck to the ankles, folding over the forepart of the body, towards the hips, where it is fastened by two strings. A second covering of the same foeia i»d width, is worn, over it, having aoiplu sleeves de- thority of their corps, collect the tributes, mj practise evf(ry opportunity of extortion : biitthg main body reside continually at Cairo. Frniq the most ttccurute computation it appears, that their number amounts to eight thousand five hundred men, incliuling Beys and Cachet's, com- mon-freed men, and Mamelukes who are still slaves. In this number there are a multitude of youth under twenty-two years of age. The most powerful house is that of Ibrahim Bey, who has six hundred Mamelukes: Murad has about four hundred ; the rest of the Bevi, amounting to eighteen or twenty, have each of them about fifty to two hundred. There are also many Mamelukes, who may be called ni. dividual', these, being sprung from distinct houses, sometimes attach themselves to one, and sometimes to another, as their interest or iriclioa< tion dictates, though they generally enter into the service of the best bidder. There are alto some Serradies, a sort of domestic on horseback; who carry the orders of the Beys ; but the ivboU together does not exceed ten thousand horse, hr fantry are not mentioned here, as ndi being known or esteemed in Turkey, especially in the Aiiatie provinces; The ancient prejudices of the Pe:* sians and the Tartars, continue to prevail i.i thow countries, where war consists only in flight and ptirsuit, and the horfemen, who is beet qualified for both these, is reputed the only soldier; and the warrior is alone the man of distinction. Walking on foot being held to be degrading, that exercise is reserved for the common people : The Mamelukes, indeed, pernrit the iahabitauts of Egypt to ride on mules or asses, appropriating to themselves the exclusive privilege of bein§; carried by a horse*. Of this peculiar distinction they make a' very sufficient use, whether tbey arc in town or country; for, if they only make a visit sccnding to the finger ends, this is called a'cnf/an, and is usually made of silk stutf, richer than the former, iiuih flicsc robes arc fastened at the waist by a long belt, diTliIin; { the dress into two bundfus. About this is a third, called | eijunltu, made of cloth without lining, in nearly the form i of the other; only the slcevos are cut at the elbow, is winter, and .sometimes in summer, this habit is lined \vith fur, and formed iuta a pelisse. Over all these three wra;^ pcrs, they put on an ontcf garment called the benifh^] which is the robe of ceremony, and completely covers the whole body, even to the ends of the fingers, which it would be highly indecorous to exhibit before the great: The whole habit, with the bcnishc on, appears like a sack, from SyniA AND EGYPT. «53- Ti'iit io ^^^ "^'^ door« tbey never are seen but on lioriebftck. So far with respect to the drcM of the Mime- llukei< let ^* "'^^ advert to their hone accoutre- penti. Since the Europeans have had the good lenie to examine into the principles of ever^ art^ they hiSt found that the horse, to enable him to move freely under his rider, should be as little btrnessed as the necessary solidity would permit. This improvement, which has taken place among I US in the eighteenth century, has.been totally neg- lected by tne Mamelukes, who have hardly ar- I rived at the knowledge of the ninth. Continually (he (laves of custom, the horse's saddle among them ii > clumsy frame, loaded with wood, leather, and iron, on which a trussequin rises behind: and a pummel before projects so much |i) to endanffer his breast, if lie should stoop. Under the saddle they spread three thick woollen I (OTcrings, and the whole is fastened by a sur- cingle, tied with leather thongs. Each stirrup ii 1 plate of copper, longer and wider than the foot, with circular edges, which are sharp ind used instead of spurs, to make long wounds in the horse's sides. The horse's furniture titogetber weighs above thirty-six pounds, I which is rendered the more ridiculous, by the ^yptian horses being so very small. The bridle I II 8 kind of snaffle, but without a joint, and with s curb, which bein^ an iron ring, binds the jiw so as to lacerate Uie skin. Instead of mana- 5ing the mouth of a horse like us, the Mamelukes citroy it by violent and sudden checks. This I consists in putting a horse on a full gallop, and from which ii Ihnist a bare neck, and a bald head, corcrcd with a turban. The turban of the Mameluke* is yellow, ind of a cylindrical form, turned up on the outside with a roll of muslin. Thoy wear, on their feet, a sock of yellow I leather, reaching up to the heels, and slippers wilhont quartori: they haTe a sort of pantaloon, or trowsers, so long IS to reach up to the chin, aud so u-ido that what is pro. I Tidnl for one of the legs, is large enough to contain the whole body. * The art of nsing these arms to perfection, constitutes { tlie education of tho Mamelukes, and is the whole occiipa. 4ion of their lives, hlarly every morning the greater part of them resort to a plain, near Cairo, and there, riding full speed, exercise theniicWcs in judiciously drawiag out their arbine from the bandalecr, discharging it with excellent lim, and then throwing it under their thigh, to seize a pistui, which they fire and throw over their shoulder; im' nediitcly .firing a second. They are encouraged by the |)teyi who are present, and whoever breaks tkt earthen Vol. II. No. LXXXV. suddenly stopping him, when at the highest speed. Checked thus by the bit, the horse bends in his legs, stilleiis the fore-legs, and slides along like a wooden horse. This manoeuvre must greatly in- jure the legs and mouth of the horse; but the Mamelukes think it graceful, and it is adapt- ed to their mode of fighting. It must be admits ted, however, that they arc firm and vigorous horsemen, and that they have a warlike appear- ance, which pleases the eye even of a stranger. Their principal weapon is an English carbine, about thirty inches long, of so capacious a bore as to discharge ten or twelve balls at a time.whicb', without much skill, cannot fail of great execu- tion. They also carry two large pistols in a belt, fastened to some part of their garments by a silken string. . A heavy mace sometimes hangs at the bow of the saddle, ready to knock down an ene- my; and on the left thigh is suspended, by a shoulder-belt, a crooked sabre. The Mamelukei usually procure their blades from Constantinople, and from Europe; but the Beys rival each other in Persian blades, and the sabres of the ancient steel of Damascus, for they sometimes pay the extraordinary price of forty or fifty pounds sterling*. In Europe, when we hear of troops, and of war, we figure to ourselves a number of men distributed into companies and squadrons, with uniforms, ranks, and lines ; and a system of ope- rations founded on established principles. The Mamelukes know nothing of our military arts; and they are strangers to uniforms, to order, t»* discipline, or even to subordination. Their ttoopi vessel which is nsfd as a Butt, receives great commenda. tions and a reward. They also practise the management of the sabre ; and shoot with bows and arrows, though thoy no longer employ them in battle. But their favourite ex. ercise is throwing the ^trid. Though the proper sigiiifica. tion of this word \i a reed, it is used io signify any statf thrown by the hand, after the manner of tho Roman pilum. The Mamelukes use branches of the palm.tree, fresh strip, ped; these branches are four feet long, and weigh five or six pounds. Armed with these, the Cavaliers enter the list, and, riding full speed, dart them at each other from a con. sidcrable distance. When the assailant has thrown, h« turns hit horse, and his antagonist throws his in his turn. The horsois, accustomed to this exercise, are so delighted with it, that they sometimes enjoy it as much as tlieir masters. But this practice is attended with danger; for tome of theiA can dart the weapoa with such force as t« wound, and sonetiines siortally. !l ST «rfl K m ... v\ fB9 VOLNEn TRAVELS THROUOtt •re a mob, (heir inarch a riot, their battles duels, and (heir war a scerfc of robbery and plun- dor, which generally happen even in the city of Ciiiro, where there is the least reason to ap- prehend any Ihing of the kind : a cabal gathers together, the Bcyii appear on horseback, the alarm spreuds, and their adversaries present themselves : they charge each other in ttte » , qifently terminated by tho death of two or three of the combatants. If they are overcome, they capitulate with the conqueror, and return to find a master at Cairo who .pays: there they live, at his expcnce, till some new revo« lution may haippqn to take place. f Luxury is how so excessive among the Mamelukes, that there is not one of them whose maintenance costs less thaa o4ie hundred and four. pounds annually, and many of them consume double that sum« At every Ramadan they jDust'havc a new suit of French arid Venetian cloths, and Damascus and. India stuffs. They must also have new koiies and kuaeUf with pistoU and sabres from Uuuascus, his future condititm. Ho ctvntitlcn how ht)tn is necessary to his patron, and rates himself k, cordingly. No sooner is a slave enfranchijcj than ho aspires to greatness. In those who conj. mand, he observes no superiority of talents wliid, can impress him with respoct; be only behold, so'diers like himself, arrived at power by {\^^ decree of fate; and if fate should be cquajlf favourable to him, he tliinks hi shall not be less able in the art of governing, which cuiui,ti only in taking money, and giving blows witji the sabre f. Such are ttie men who now govern aad decide the fate of Egypt: some fortunate strokes, with abundance of cunning and audacitv, have given them this pre-eminence: but the change of for. tune has not wrought a change of character jg these vile upstarts; they have still the meannesi of slaves though elevated to the rank of mo< narchfl. Sovereignty vriih them is only the means of more luxury, more toys, more horses and slaves, and of gratifying all their capricei, The whole administration is conducted on (bii principle. It consists in managing the court of Constantinople to as to elude the tribute, or the menaces of the Sultan; and in purchasing i number of slaves, countermining plots, anii taking off their secret enemies by poison, or gilt stirrups, and saddles and bridles plated with (ilier. The chiefs roust have trinkets, precious stones, fin Arahiai horses, rich shawls of Cashmirc, and variety of pelisses. The women disdain any longer to wear sequisK I on the head and kreast, as not sufficiently gay and spleit. ' did, and figure away with diamonds, rubies, ami t)i», finest pearls ; to which they have added a passion for Lyons stutfs and laces. The manners of the Mamelukes are horrible, thougl^ most of them pretend to the rites of the Greek church, and are circumcised the moment they are bought, even (he Turks themselves consider, them as renugadocs, void of faitb and of religion. Strangers to each other, they are dch titiite of those natural tics which unite tho rest of mankind. Without parents, without children, tho past has duncno< thing for them, and they provide nothing for the future. Ignorant and superstitious, they become ferocious by the commission of frequent murders, perfidious from their nu.. merous cabals, seditious from tumults, and base, deceitful, and corrupted by every species of debauchery. They are even addicted to that abominable vice, which has been so shamelessly practised by the Greeks and the Tartars. It is certain that there is not a single Mameluke that is not polluted by this depravity ; aad the cuntagiou has extended among the inhabitants of Cairo, and evea among the Chris* tians of Syria wbo reside iu that city. the RVniA AVT) EGYPT. S31 (he i»K*^- ^^*' tortured by suspicion, the fhicfi »"S*'' "• "'"'■'' ■• *'•• •mieni tyraiiti of Syracuse. Morab «ud Ibrahim pleep continually ninidit sabrcn mid carbinfi, fietne nbsnlut^ strangers to a pulice, or a well rpgulated go- vernment*. SECTION III. Cuttdiiion. qf the People of Egypt'-Of IK lucli a country^ levery thine t« analogous to 10 wretched a governuaent. Where tite culti- vator cannot enjoj the fruit of his labour, he works only by constraint, and agriculture lan- (Tuishes. Where there ia no security in pro- perty, there can be no hidustry to procure it. The greater part of the lands are in the hands of the Beys, the Mamclukeit, and the professors of the law; they have few other proprietors, and the little property of theirs is liable to a thousand impositions. Contributions are con- tinually required of theoa^, and there is no right ofiuccessioa for real. property; every thing re- turns iq government, from which every thing nuit be re-purcbaied. The peasants are hired jtbourers, who are permitted to retain what is birely sufficient to susiain life: tbejr can reserve for tliemselve* nothing but dourra, or Indian millet, of which they make a wretched tasteless lort of bread, without leaven. This bread is I baked by a fire made with the dry dung of buf- filoes and cowsf, which, with -water and raw I obioni, is their only food throughout the year. Tbey think themselves extremely happy if they ciD sometimes procure a little honey, cheese, lOur milk, and dates. Flesh meat and fat can only be procured by those who are in the best I circumstances, and on the greatest festivals. Their whole clothing consists in a shirt of Icoarte blue linen, and a kind of black cloak : Itbeir head-drrss is a cloth bonnet, with a red iwoollen handkerchief rolled over it. Their llegs, arms, and breasts are naked; many of Ithein not being provided even with drawers. ■Their habitations arc mud-walled huts, in which Itbey are almost siiffocated with heat and smoke ; * WhcD M. Volnpy wai at Cairo, some Maraeliikes larried off the wife of a Jew, who was passing tl» Nile liilh her husband. The Jew complained to Mprad, who ■hhiiroiinh tone of »o1co replied — '* VVtll, let the young Ifolksaimise ihwnsclvcn !" — In the evening, one of the Jiiame. ^ liikia iaformcd the Jew that they 'would restore him his the Diseases of Egypt — The Small Pox. 'tit tVof; I ■ 16 these distresses Mb addled 'i:ontinun1 alarms, the dread tf the robberies of the Arabs, the ex- tortions of the Mamelukes, family feuds, and the calamities of a civil war, Such is the picture of all the villages, and the towns have not a more agreeable aspect. Even at Cairo, the stranger on his arrival, is struck with the universal appearance of wretclied- ness and misery. The crowds, with which the streets are ih'or>»;e.i], present to the spectator nothing but filtli;' rags and disgusting nudities. Sometimes, indeed, he meets with a horseman richly clad, wl.icii rendei's indigence the more shocking by being contrasted with' the display of luxury. The blood of nian is here lavished with that of the vilest animals: justice herself inflicts death without formality. The officer of the night, and e\'Rn of the day, frequently judge, condemn, and execute, in the twinkling of an eye, without appeal. Unfortunate is that man who is suspected of beiiig in easy circumstances; a multitude of spies are ready every moment to recuse: him; and it is only by assuming the ap- pearance of poverty, that he can have auy chance of escaping the rapacity of power. Not many years ago. the capital of Egypt, as well as the whole country presented a spectacle of the most deplorable misery. To the constant evils of uncontrouled tyranny, were added na- tural calamities still more destructive. The plague, brought from Constantinople in Novem- ber 1783, made its accustomed ravages during - the whole winter. Fifteen hundred dead bodies were supposed to be carried out of the gates of ' Cairo. The summer, indeed, asswaged its fury, [ but another scourge, equally terrible, soon foL- ' wife, if he wauld pay bim one hundred piafters for fiu trouble, and to theso tcrniR ho was obliged to submit. This instance is the more remarkable, since in this country wo« i men are hold moKC saured than oven life itself. f The reader need not be informed that l^gypt is a naked co'uatry, which afl'ords no lire wood. lowed \ ' ) S58 VOLNKT's TRAVELS THROUGH lowed. The inundation of 1783 ^^as not suf- ficient, therefore a considerable part of the land could not be sown for want of bein^ watered, and another part for want of seed. Ir '784, the Nile did not rise so high as was wished, and the dearth became excessive* Soon after November, the famine carried oft* at Cairo, almost as many ■s the plague ; the streets, which before swarmed with beggars, was now free from them ; all of them having perished, or deserted the city. It was generally supposed that the country had lost about a sixth part of its inhabitants. I'he streets and public places swarmed with meagre and dying skeletons, who implored, in vain, the pity of passengers. These wretclies expired before the doors of the Beys, who had large hoards of rice and corn; and frequently the Mamelukes, im- portuned by their cries, drove them with blows. IV!. Volney relates that, when he was returning from Syria to France, in March 1785, he saw, under the walls of ancient Alexandria, two wretches sitting on the dead carcase of a camel, " and disputing its putrid fragments with the dogs*." In this state of barbarism, rt seems extraordi- nary that commerce should still continue so flou- rishing as we And at Cairo; but, from an ex- apiination of ihe sources, it appears that two powerful causes have contributed to render Cairo the seat of a very extensive trade: the first is, that all the commodities consumed in Egypt •re collected within tlie walls of that city; and all the persons of property, such as the Maaie- * In the present situation of the Egyptians, they may not display probably iiuicii courage; (hough the seeds of it may Dot be wanting in (hem, or (hat It is denied theni by the eliinaie. Instead uf tlie dci;reu of heat, it is the ardour of the passions, and llic. conlidcncu ve ha?c in our own powers wliich enables ns to brave danger. We deceive ourselves if we represent the Egyptians as enervated by heat, ot ellominate by debauchery. The men of opulence may in. deed bo a prey to that eircmiuacy, which is common to them in every climate; but the wretched despised peasants, denominated /(.'//^y mountains. It scrmt also aclinowiedged Ihattlic ditri'rcnce of level:* aflbrds no material olijection to lorh a junction ; but the great difliculty arises from the na. |la;cof the corresponding coasts of the Mediterranean and llii' Ili'rt Sea, which are low and sandy, furniing lakes, ihoils, morasses, which will not render the near approach |of vessels practicable. It is 'udcet('r; nur can a supply of (liut article be procured for the blubitaiitri, without bringing it as far as from the Nilo. t Sliiibo, lib. 17. * It (untinucd forty day^i assembled, deferring its de- ^riurc for various reasons ; among others, on account of kmluchj dajc, iu which rc>;ppct the Turks are .is super. ^liliaus as the Romans formerly were. It set out, however, !ihc'27th of .July, and arrived tlu'29lh at Suez, having |agriic)'«(l twenly.nine hours by the route of the llaouatitt Vol. II. N'^^. LXXXV. carried the necessary provisions, fd-r no place upon earth is more destitute of every necessary than Suez. From the tops of the terraces, the eye, surveying the sandy plain to the north-west,' cannot discern even a single tree, or the smullcst spot of verdure. Suez aQbrds no prospect but extensive yellow sands, or a lake of green water; the ruinous condition of the houses heightening' the melancholy scenery. The only water that cau be drank is brought from the spi'ing, at the dis- tance of three hours' journey on the Arabian shore; but it is so extremely brackish that it cannot be drank by Europeans, without a mix- ture of rum in it. The sea might probably fur- nish plenty of shell and other fish, but the Arabs are not expert fishermen ; and the governor, > who is a Mameluke, is only left with twelve or: fourteen persons at Suez ; these form bis house- hold, and the garrison §. Next to the christians of Syria, the most con- siderable body of merchants is that of the Eu-' ropeans, known in the Levant by the name of Franks ||. The principal article of French tradtj : in Egypt, consists in light cloths of Languedoc, ' of which they sell amiually between nine bun- > dred and a thousand bales. The other articles of importation are iron, lead, groceries, cochi- neal, laces, Lyons stutl'o, dollars, and sequins, r In exchange they take cofl'ee of Arabia, coarse cottons, African gums, untanned hides, sal am- moniac and rice. Cairo is the most precarious and most disagreeable fiTctory of the Levant. Fifteen years ago there were nine French mer- cantile houses at Cairo; iu 1785 they were re- ' Arabs, a league farther to the south than the Lake of the , Pilgrims. § The fortress is a defenceless mass of rnins, which tho Arabs consider as a citadel, as it contains six four pounders, and two Gr^ek gunners, who cautiously turn their heads aside when they lire. Thcic the merchandize is embarked, to be conveyed over the banks of sand to the vessels vr-hieh anchor in tho road, and which might bo attacked without opposition ; the ships themselves arc incapable of resistance, none of them having any other artillery than four rusty swivels. Their number diminishes annually, for, by con. tinually coasting along a shore full of shoals, ona out of nine or ten is generally shipwrecked. In 1783, sno of them was surprised by the Arabs, while tho crew were sleeping on the shore. Having plundered it of fifteen hniidred bags of coil'ee, they abandoned the vessel to tho wind, which blew it upon the const. II The orientals usually hold the manner; of Europe itk ' detestation, which prurcnts every idca| of emigration. ,' 3U duced i ■((.' :<(! ii *-j 'i,?i til 113 , i- ■• 11:1 1 ,> d«o VOLNEY's TRilVKl^ THROUGH duced to tbree, and shortly, it is presumed, there will not remain one. The Christians of Syria, settled some time ago at Leghorn, have given a fatal blow to the French factories at this, place, by the immediate correspondence they carry on with their countrymen : and the Grand Duke of Tuscany, who treats them like his other subjects, contributes materially to the encourage^ ment of their trade. As Grand Cairo is a celebrated cHy, it deserves to be more particularly described. The founder of this capital gave it the name of El Kahera ; the Arabs know it only by that of Masr, which seems to have been the ancient eastern name of the Lower Egypt. This city stands on the east- ern bank of the Nile, about a quarter of a league from the river. When we hear of Grand Cairo, we naturally suppose it to be a capital, at least, like those of Europe; but when it is considered, that towns have only begun to be made con- \enient and elegant within these hundred years, we shall easily conceive that a country which has not been improved since thetenth century, must partake of the common barbarism : Cairo, indeed, contains none of those elegant public or private edifices, in which the architect displays his genius. The environs are embellished with heaps of dirt, formed by the rubbish, which keeps daily multi- plying and augmenting, while the immensity of tombs, with the stench of the common sewers, are equally offensive to the smell and to the sight. Within the walls, the streets are crooked, nar- row, and impaved, in consequence of which the crowds of men, camels, asses, and dogs, with which they are thronged, occasion continual clouds of dust. Individuals frequently water their doors, and to this dust succeeds mud and pestiferous exhalations. The houses here have two or three stories, which is contrary to the general custom of the east: they have, however, * The |)op»Iation of Cairo has oftcH been a subject of ' dispute. Anthony Faraoun, who was the head oflicer of the customs, says it approaches seven hundred thousand souls*, including Boulak, a port and suburb: but no calculations of the number of inhabitants of Turkey can be relied on, as no registers are kept of births, marriages, or deaths. Tbc Mahometans have superstitious prejudices against num. bcring their people; though the Christians may bccstimatcd by (heir tickets of capitation. According to the plan of M . !Ni(buhrt taken in 1761, Cairo is three leagues in circum. fercnce, which is about the same with Paris, by the line of the BouUfards. Now, if Paris does not contaia abore scren hun. the appearance of prisoiifj *^ tbejr Iiave not «|. light from the street; it being v«ry dangetoiiij to have many windows in such a country, ggj the entering door is made very tow. Their rooiM within are ill contrived. The superior peopk however, are not without ornaqients and com veniences : they have spacious halls, in whic^ are water-spouts ; discharging into marble ba? sons, and are well adapted to the climate. The paved floor, inlaid with marble and eajrtheo ware is covered with mats and mattresses, over whicb is spread a rich carpet, pn which they sit croii. legged. A sofa, with cushions, also embelljshei the apartment; and above, at the height of seven or eight feet, a range of shelves, decorated wiili China and Japanese porcelain. The walls, wh:«K in other respects are naked, abound with sen- tences extracted from the Koran, and paiDted flowers. Their windows are without glass, oi moving sashes; but they hao an open lattice work, which may probably be more expensive than our glazing. The light enters from the inner courts, from whence the sycamores reflect a pleasing verdure. An opening to the north, or at the top of the cieling, iqvites a refreshing breeze, though the different individuals, at the same moment, carefully wrap themselves up in furs, and warm woollen cloths. The rich are thus careful of themselves to avoid diseases, but the common people, with their coarse covering, are perhaps less liable to take cold, and are more rational candidates for superior health*. A great nnraber of ugly dogs roam about the streets of Cairo, and kites in abundaoro skim over the houses with frequent and dolorous criej, Though both these creatures are held unclean by the Mussulnien, they never kill them ; but, on the contrary, throw them the fragments of the tables; and devotees endow charitable foundt" tions of bread and water for the dogs f . These dred thousand inhabitants, though the houses are fire sloriesl high, it cannot be supposed that Cairo, where they arc butl two stories, can contain more than two hundred ami firtjrl thousand. It is equally impracticable to give a genuine esti.| mate of the population of all Egypt. But as it is known thatl the number of all the towns and villages does not exceed twol thousand three hundred, and the number of inhabitants inl each, on the average, does not exceed a thousand, thctoiall cannot be more than two millions, three hundred thousand, j f Turdc.dovcs, which are very numerous, build theiij nests in the houses, and evca the children do not venture t« touch them, toimal! died l>ii Baronik Tott. STMA AND EGYPt. aoi 2«> iiiiilb Tiave° ftlx) ike resource of the common ' wets, which does not, however, prevent their ■ufleriog greatly- from hunger and thirst ; but it ujg very extraordinary that these extremities never produce madness*. Canibe madness is vholly unknovyn in Syria ; though the name of ^e malady is to be found in the Arabic language, I ind is not borrowed from any foreign tongue. Blindness is not the only remarkable disease in I (his country^ there being several others which I eaually deserve attention, It is indeed extraor- I dinarVt that such a prodigious number of per- lODS are seen in Egypt whose sight is either lost Of impaired. " Out of a hundred persons," says M.Volney, "that I have met while walking the streets of Cairoi twenty have been quite blinds ten wanting an eye, and twenty others have bad their eyes red, purulent, or blemished: lilmoit every one wears a fillet, a token of ap- proaching or conv^iiescent opthatmy." But nothing astonished him more than the indiffer- (Dce with which they support so dreadful a mis- I fortune. It toas decreed, says the Mussulman, [mistd be God! — God has willed it, says the ■Cbriitian, blessed be his name! — Thongh re> tiigmtion is the best resource when the evil I bat happened, it prevents an enquiry into Ithe cause of the disorderj and precludes the Idiscovery of its cure. The following ob> IsirTations aiay probably assist others in future lenquiries : I ht. Deflaxions on the eyes are not peculiar |to Egypt; tliey are also frequent in Syria, but ■not so general; and the inhabitants of the sea- Icoast are alone subject to them. a. In Cairo, which is always full of filth, Itbete disorders prevail more than in the rest of lEgjpt. They happen more frequently among ■the common people, than on those in easy cir- Ituaistuiices, and among the natives more than Iforeigners. The Mamelukes are seldom attacked Iby (hfni : The peasants of the DeHa are afflicted Iwith (hem more than the Bedou^i Arabs. 3d. They happen at no certain periods, as IPrusptT Alpinus has declared, but are common Ito every mouth of the year, and to every age. We cannot ascribe these maladies to any sub- llile dust in the air, because the peasants are more liposed to this than the inhabitants of towns: * This remark has boen made by Prosper AlpiaaS; in his '')ilii««a the Physic of (hv Kgy^jtiau. the custom of sleeping on the'terraises appears a more probable cause. The usual diet of thm Egyptians seems to be a powerful cause. Cheese, sour milk, honey, confection of grapes, green fruits, and raw vegetables, which constitute the common food of the people, create a disorder in the stomach, which physicians say eflfects the sight : raw onions, in particular, of which they devour great quantities, have a peculiar heating quality, which the Monks of Syria induced me to remark on myself. Bodies thus nourished, accumulate corrupted humours which are con- stantly endeavouring to discharge themselves. Diverted from the proper channel, by habitual perspiration, they fly to the exterior parts, and take possession where they find the least resist- ance. They naturally attack the head, because the Egyptians, by shaving it once a week, and covering it with a very hot head-dress, princi- pally attract the perspiration to that part, and if the head receives any impression of cold, on be- ing uncovered, this perspiration is suppressed, and falls upon the teeth, and more particularly on the eyes, as being the tenderest part: every additional cold weakens that organ, and at length it becomes totally destroyed. To itrengthen the probability that the excessive perspiration of the head is a principal cause, it is certain that the ancient Egyptians, who were bare-headed, are not mentioned by physicians as being so much afflicted with opthalmies f ; and that the Arabs of the desert, who cover it very slightly, are equally exempt from them. Blindness in Egypt is frequently in consequence of the small-pox, a very fatal disorder in that country, and very improperly treated. During the three, first days, debs, or confection of grapes, honey, and sugar, are administered to the patients; and, after the seventh, they are permitted to take milk, meat, and salt-fish: at the time of suppuration, they are never purged, and carefully avoid washing their e^es, even though they are full of pus, and their eye-lids closed by the glutinous matter: they never per- form this operation till after forty days, and, in that time, the pus, by irritating the ball, pro- duces an inflammation which aflects the whole eye. Inoculation is not entirely unknown among them, but they seldom practise it, nor is it much f History, howeror, rclates,that several of the Pharaohs diud blind. L . countenanced u- n I Vlii^ MX. ■■' '-.B ^ (ft Eii^f 9.:\\ ' \ I'i'i- '. ■;;;'■ i ■ , ' 262 VOLNETs TRAVELS THITOIJGH counteifanced by the Syrians, and the inhabitants of Anadolia, who have long been acquainted with it*. This improper regimen is more pernicious than the climate, which is far from unhealthyf. To unwholesome food may be attributed both the deformity of the beggars, and the wretched appearance of the children of Cairo. Their hol- low eyes, pale and putTed faces, swollen bellies, meagre extremities, and yellow skins, give them all the appearance of being hastening to the grave. 'J'heir simple mothers pretend that this is the ef- fect of the evil eye of some envious person, who ]ias bewitched tliem. This ancient prejudice is still general in Turkey: but the real cause is their pernicious food J;. Another troublesome complaint, peculiar to the climate of Egypt, is a cutaneous eruption that returns every year : towa' s the end of June, or the beginning of July, red spots and pimples appear all over the body, occasioning much pain. As this eruption regularly happened at the time of the new waters, several physicians have supposed, that it was occasioned by the salts with which these waters are impregnated : butM. Volney assigns another reason; he says the waters of the Nile become corrupted, towards the end ef April, in the bed of the river, and, when drank, produces malignant humours. When the new water arrives, it occasions a fermentation in the blood, which separates the vicious humours, andexpel them towards the skin whither they are invited by the perspiration. It is in effect, a * The operation is performed by Uiserting a thread into the flesh, or by making the patient inhale, or swallow, the powder of dried pustules. + The Mamelukes, from a wholrsome diet, and a proper regimen, enjoy the most robust state of health. j: Another very general distemper at Cairo is vulgarly railed the Dles&cd Evil, called also the Neapolitan and French disease, with which half Cairo is infected. M'ny of the inhabitants suppose it to proceed tromfright, wiich. craft, or undcanness. Some of them suspect the real cause, but are too reserved to ineutiun their euspicions. This blessed evil is found very dithcult to ciire; mercury generally fails ; sudcrllic vegetables succeed better, but are not infallible: fortunately, the virus is not very active, ou account of the great and natural j)crspiration. Both in this country, and in Spain, we see old men carrying the disor. der about them to the age of eif;hty ; >but its ctfccts are fatal toichildrcn born with the'.nfection ; itistflso very improper to rarry into a cold country, whcrcit nevei fails to make a rajud progress, becoming more inveterate from transplantation. § Tho Egyiitians, aod the Turks in general, have a fond- ^1 i real purgative depuration, and is aWays salutan Another disease, coinmbn at Cairo, ig ^C swelling of the testicles, which sometimes ttitoj to an enormous hydrocele. It is said; principally to attack the Greeks and Copts; whence a sus! picion arises that it is occasioned by the frre^t quantity of oil which they use tww-tliirds of the year. It is also conjectured that the immoderate use of the hot baths $ contribute to k, and pro. duces other effects equally injurious to health. The spring, which in Egypt is the summer of our climates, introduces malignant fevers, which soon arrive at a crisis. A French Physician who has attended many persons afflicted ^it|| them, says, that the bark, given in the intermix. sions, in doses of two or three ounces, has fre- quently saved the patient at the last extremity |j, As soon as the disease appears, the patient must be restricted to a vegetable acid regimen: meat atid fish are prohibited, and especially eggs: the latter are a sort of poison -in Egypt. In thii country, and in Syria, bleeding is more injurioui than beneficial, even in cases where it appears to be most necessary. The Egyptians are, in ge- neral, of a bilious habit, as appears from their eyes, and their black eye-brovt^, their browD complexion, and meagre form. The cholic isaa habitual malady among them; and most of them frequently complain of a sourness in the throat, and an acid nausea; emetics, ai\d cream of tartar are therefore generally successful. Some persons have expressed an opinion that the plague originates in Egypt ** ; but this siid- ncss fur the stove.baths. The law of the Koran, wliirh enjoins a con^plete ablution after the conjugal act, is aloni! a very powerful motive ; and the gratification of their vaiiiiy in its observance is another. With respect io the wonin they have -other motives; First, the bath is the ouly place where they can make a parade of their luxury, and rrgil; themselves with melons, fruits, pastry, aud other ddicadcs. Secondly, they believe that the bath gives them that enbon. pomi which passes for beauty. Strangers ditl'er in tlirir epiniuns : many merchants of Cairo are pleased with tlie baths ; to others they are disagreeable. M, Volney found the bath produce in him a vertigo, and a trembling in tht knees, which continued two days: Ho candidly acknov. ledges, that he docs not envy the Turks cither their opium, or their stoves. .Jl The next day he always administers a clyster to cipcl the bark. ** Prosper Alpinus, whowrOto in 1591, also says that the plague never originates in Egypt; that it is brought from Greece, Syria, and Harbary ; that the heats dc&trojr j it, &c. See Medecitta jEgj/plioruntf p.i8. poaitioo SYRIA AND KGYPT. 263 nosition proceeds from vague prejudices. The European merchants, who have resided many j„ at Alexandria concur with the Egyptians in declaring that the plague never proceeds from the interior parts of the country, but first ap- nears on the coast at Alexandria, from thence passes to Rosestta, then to Cairo, then to Damiet- ^ and through the rest of the Delta. They alio observe, that it is always preceded by the arrival of some vessel from Smyrna, or Constanti- nople ; and when the plague has been violent in one of these cities during the summer, the danger is jrrealer for themselves the following winter. It is well known that it really originutes from Constantinople, where it is continued Ly the folly and negligence of the Turks, who publicly tell the effects of persons known to have died of Ihat distemper. The ships which go to Alex- andria, carry the furs and woollen cloths pur- chased on these occasions, which they expose to sale in the Buzar of that city, and most etfer- tiially spreads the contagion. The Greeks, who ('mI in these articles, usually become the first victims; and by degrees the infection reaches Kosetta and Cairo. When it is confirmed, the European merchants shut themselves and (heir domestics up in their Kans, and have no further communication with the city. Their provisions, which are deposited at the gate of (he Kan, are received there by the porter, who cautiously takes them up with iron tongs, and plunges them into a barrel of water provided for the purpose. If they have occasion to speak to Ian) one, they carci'iilly avoid coming near I enough to touch his clothes, or even to breathe near them. This imprisonment sometimes [continues for three or four months, during which time they have no other amusement than that of walking^ in the evening, on the terraces, or playing at cards. At Constantinople the plague piccvails during the sumratc, and is weakened, or ceases in the winter : ii. Egypt it is most violent in winter, and ends in the months c i June. In Egypt the winter nourishes the plague, on account of its being {mild and humid; but the summer being hot and » Tliciloclrine of prc and are covered with woods, affording very agreeable prospects : but on our nearer ap- proach io Judea, they lose their verdure, their valleys become narrower, and they are dry and stoney ; terminating, at the Dead Sea in a pile of desolate rocks, full of firecipices and caverns*^. To the west of Jordan,\Dd the Lake, a higher and more rugged chain of rocks present them- selves, making a more gloomy prospect, and an- nouncing the entrance of the desert, and the end of the habitable lands. The most elevated point of all Syria is Lebanon, on the south-cast of Tripoli. As soon as we de- part from Larncca, in Cyprus, though at the distance of thirty leagues, we discover its sum- mit, capped with clouds. This is also discernible on the map, from the course of the rivers. The Orontes flows from the mountains of Damascus, and loses itself below Antioch : ThcKasmie, from i'w north of the Balbcc, takes its course towards lyre; and the Jordan, forced by the declivities, towards the south, prove that this is the highest point. Next to Lebanon, the most elevated part of the country is Mount Akkar : it has the up- • The place is called Tlif Crottoes of Engaddi, which has been a refuge for vagabonds for several ajjes, some of which arc sufficiently capacious to con(aiu lifteen hundred pfople. f Mount Blanc, the highest of tho Alps, is estimated at tHuthdusand four hundred /athom above the level of the sea, and the peak of Ossian, iu the I'yrcueus, at uinctecn hundred. Lebanon, which gives its name to the whole chain of tho Ki'jraouan, and the country of the Diu/.es, |)rcsents variety of majestic mountains. F.vcry step displays eitlier beauty, m.ijisty, or ;;randuur. When we land on the coast, tlic loftiness and steep ascent of this mountainous rid^c, which seems to enclose the country, inspire astonishment and awe. Here the curious traveller seems to command the ■whole world, now surveying the successive chains of moun- tains, while the wandering eye, in an instant, transports the inianinatiott from Anlloch to Jerusalem ; and now up. pniachiug the surrounding objects, more minutely examines the rocks, woods, torrents, villages, and t(^wns. (le con> templates the valley, obscured by stormy clouds, with soma » Slrabo Htys, " that the tradition of the inhabitants of the couiiinf (that is of the Jctcs themselves) Kas, that Jormciijf the vallei/ of the lake uias peo^kd by thirteen Jhu- pearance of an enormous flattened stone, and is in view for two days journey: in winter their lops are covered with snow, from Alexandretta to Jerusalem. Since it is well known that snow^ in this latitude, requires the elevation of fifteen or sixteen hundred fathoms, we may conclude that to be the height of Lebanon, and conse- quently much lower than the Alps, or even the Pyrenees f . If we examine the substance of these moun- tains, we shall discover that they consist of a hard calcareous stone, of a whitish colour, and disposed in strata variously inclined. In tra- velling from Aleppo to Hama, veins of the same rock are continually seen in the plain, while the mountains on the right present hugh piles, ap- pearing like the ruins of towns and castles. The satne stone, tmder a more regular form, also com- poses the greater part of Lebanon, Anti-Lebanon, the Mountains of the Druzes, Galilee, and jMount Carniel, and stretches to the Lake Asphaltites. The bed of the torrent of Azkalan, in Palestine, is also lined with a heavy stone, porous and salt, which cDiitains a great number of small volutes and bivalves of the ^lediterranean. Pococke saw a large fjnantity of Ihem in the rocks which bor- der on the Red Sea. Iron is very ubtindant here. Every summer the inhabitants of Judea cannot he Mitliout it, for Mosfs observed, above three thousand years ago, that its stones were of iron,{;, . . Syria, dea;ree of pleasure, and smiles at hearing the thunder, which had so often burst over his head, now growling under his feet. I The south of Syria, w liich is the hollow through which the Jordan Hows, is a coinitry of volcanoes : the sulphur- ous sources of the l/.ik.e Asphaltites, the lava, and the hot balli of Taberia, plainly demonstrate that this valley has been the seat of a subterraneous lire not yet extinguished. Glouds of smoke are often seen issuing from the lake.'arHl new crevicis appear forn\ed upon its banks. It seems pro- bable that file whole valley has been occasioned by a violent sinking of a country, which formerly pound the .Jordan into the Mediterranean. It is, however, certain that, at least, tiie catastrophe of five cities, destroyed by tire, must have been from the eruption wf a volcano, tlien burning*. The (piantilies of ruins, still found on the western border, seems to be a confirmation of tias. Though these ern|itiou3 have long ceased, carthcpiakc^s continue to be felt, at inter- vals, in this country. History gives us many examples of earthquakes, which have changed the face of .Antioeli, Laodicea, Tripoli, Berytus, Tyre, and Sidon. Even so ri'.him; cities, and that they Kcrc i nallo :ced tip by a volcano.'* Lib. 10. p. 764. '':',., _' Z . ' ", ' ''.] lately ^■\ ^■■^■.''^ m\ rt ■V, i'*^i;'ii?j ■, ■ t Ijlll •■ ::>■; I'.". ■ I M- :. ,i ,. :!,: t |:.|V ^63 VOLNEY's TRAVELS THROUGH Syria, Effypt, Persia, and most of the south- ern parts of Asia, arc subject to clouds of locusis, so often mentioned by trav<^ller3. The quantity of these insects is ahnost incr'^diblc, the whole earth being covered with them for the space of several leagues. The noise they make in brow- zing on the trees and herbage, may be heard at a considerable distance. A person would sup- pose that fire had followed their progress: v'herever their myriads spread, the verdure of the earth disappears ; trees and plants, deprived of tfaeir foliage, and reduced to their naked boughs and stems, compel the winter instantly to succeed to the rich scenery of the spring. When these clouds of locusts take their flight, to traverse more rapidly a desert soil, the heavens appear to be obscured by them. Happily, indeed, this calamity is not frequently repeated, for it is the certain fore-runner of famine, and the maladies it occasions. The Syrians have remarked, that they are usually bred by two mild winters, and that they invariably come from the desert of Arabia. Hence it may be apprehended, that the cold has not been suificiently rigid to destroy their eggs, innumerable legions issue forth. When they make their first appearance in the cultivated country, the inhabitants endeavour to drive them ofTwith clouds of smoke, but they cannot always procure a sulHciency of herbage and wet straw : they then dig trenches, in which many of them are buried ; but the two most effectual destroyers of them, are the south, or south-easterly winds, and the bird called the sarmarmar. These birds, which resemble the wood-pecker, follow them in great multitudes, devouring as many as they can, and destroying large quantities of iihem. They are therefore much respected by the peasants, who never disturb or injure them. As the winds, just mentionedj drive these myriads of locusts lately as 1579, an earthquake happened \rliicli made won. dcrful ravages. It destroyed, in the Talley of Balbcc, up. wards of twenty thousand persons: the inhabitan(s of Le. banon were so terrified at thfe shocks of it, that for three months they abandoued their houses and dwelt under tents. — *• When I was at Aleppo, in December, 1783," says Mr. Volney, 'e riv«r ^idonis. If we would, however, wish to speak properly, we should hardly find any respectable strcamg but Rivukls in this country : the channels of tbc Orontes and the Jordan, though the two moit 'considerable, arc hardly sixty paces wide nt their mouths; the others are hardly considerable enough to be mentioned. They may be said to be nothing but Torrents and Cascades, that from the proximity of the mountains, among which they rise io the sea, the waters have not time to collect in long valleys, and to form rivers. The obstacles by some of these mountains, form lakes, some of winch are considerable, as those of An- 1 tioch, Aleppo, Damascus, Tabaria, and that which has been honoured with the name of the Dead Sea, or Lake Asphaltites. All these lakes, | except the last, contain fresh water f . It out verdure ; the extreme saltncss of the water far cxceedi { that of the sea, and it therefore hostile to animals and vegi. tables. The soil around it ii so impr^nated with this saline I quality, that it produces no plenty : henco tkc nielancln/ly I aspect which reigns about this lake. The origin of liiii mineral was particnlarly uoticeflhy i1/. Folney, who^ays, that on the south.west shore, there " are mines of fussil salt, of which I have brought away several specimens." On this shore arc alse found fragments of sulphur and bitumen, which the Arabs convert into trifling articles of commerce.] Unshapcn blocks are observed here, which pass with super. stitious pilgrims for montiments of the Adventures of L)fs\ Wife, tiiough St 18 no where pretended that she was metii. morphosed into stone, but into satt. The lake of Antioch abounds with eels, and a sort ofl redl SYRTA AND EGYPT hm 2(J7 Tt U genersDy said that Syria is a very hot I ,„(jy ; btit several distinctions are necessary to Ibeniade: first, 6n account of the diflRerence of llatitiiM which, from the two extremes, is not less than six degrees ; secondly, from the divrsion lof tlie country into low and flat, and high and mountainous. We may venture then to establish Itwo general climates ; the one very hot, which lis that of the coast, and the interior plains, as llhose of Antiocli, Balbec, Tripott, Gaaia, lAcie, &c- The other temperate. In this climate, the order of the seasons nearly Rallies with the middle provinces of France : the fiflter, wliicli contimjes from November to larch, is sharp and severe. Not a year passes vilhout snow, and the ea'rth i» frequently covered vith it, several feet deep : tlie spring and ao- lumn are mild, and the summer heat is absolutely Insupportable. In the plains, on the contrary, vtien the sun returns to^ the equator, the transi- lion is rapid to oppressive heats, which continue [ill the conclusion of October. But the winter |9 so moderate, that the orange, banana, and btiicr delicate tree», thrive in the open air. It Lppears equally extraordinary to an European at Tripoli, to see, under hi» window, in the month Lf January, orange-trees, well stocked with Powers and fruit, while the towering head of «banoii is covered with ice and snow. In the turthcrn parts, and to the east of the mountains Jie winter' is indeed more rJgorous, without the luinaiop being leas hot. At Antioch. Damascus, Ld Aleppo, there are several weeks of frost and now every winter ; which arises more froir, lUe iiluatiou of (lie country, than from the difference ^t' the latitude ; the plains to tlte eastern moun- tins being high above the level of the seut and. [iposed to all the parching blasts of the north M south-east, and screened from the humid vinds of the south and south-west. In spite of the barbarism of Syria, which is enemy to all industry and improvement, we Ire astonished at the variety il affords. Besides fish not Tery excellent ; but the Greeks, who keep a lerpclual lent, consume great quantities of them. Lake fabaria is ttill richer ; crabs, especially, are very numerous lit; but the environs, being inhabited only by Mahomet. iBi, they arc very seldom disturbed. * It was long supposed that the insect of the cochineal Iw peculiar to Mexico ; and the Spaniards, to secure the Delusive possession of it, have prohibited the exportation f the iiriog cochineal, under pain of death ; but M. Vw. II. No. LXXXVI. wheat, rye, barley, beans, and the c6ttr»n plant, we find a multitude of useful and agreeable pro- ductions. Palestine abounds iu sesanum, from which oil rs procured, and duura as good as that of Eigypt. Maize thrives in Balbec, and rice is succcssfiilly cultivated on the borders of the marshy coontry of Havula. Indigo grows with- out coiltivstiii^, on thcf banks of the Jordan, in the co«mtry of Bisan, aind with care may be made of a very excellent quality. The hill-sides of Latakia produce tobacco, a principal article of the commerce of that town with Damictta and Cairo. The olive tree of Provence grows at Au- tioch, and at Ramie to the height of the beech. The white mulberry-tree enriches the whole country of the Druzes, by the beautiful silks which are produced on it, while the vine sup- ported on poles, supplies grapes which produce red and white wines that might rival those oii' Bourdeaux. Raifa, besides its lemons, produces enormous citrons ; and water melon?, superior even to those of Brulos. Gaza produces dates like Mecca, and Pomegranates like Algiers. The oranges of Tripoli are equal to those of Malta, and Bairut figs like those of Marseilles. Aleppo has the exclusive advantage; of producing, pistachios, and Damascus possesses ail the fruits that are known in the provinces. Its stony soil- is equally suitable' to the apples of Normandy, the plums of Torraine, and the peaches of Paris. No less than twenty sorts of apricots are reckt)ned' there ; one of which contains a kernel much' esteemed through all Turkey. The cochiueair plant also grows on that coa'sf, in as higii per- fection as ill Mexico and 8t, Domingti *. When we consider that the mountains of the Yemen, which produce most excellent coQuc, and that they are only a continu.Uion of those of Syria> and that their soil and climate are nearly the same f , we may reasonably suppose tlia:t' Judcrt might easily cultivate this valuable production of Arabia;};. The face of the heavens, in Syria', especially on Thicrii, who succcccdcd in ^"lngiug it away in 1771, an4 carried it to St. Domingo, ixind th; nopals of that island contained il before his arrival. Il seems as if Nature hardly ever separated insects from the'plants appropriated to thcmi + The situation of the conntry of Yemen and 'I'aharaa i^ very similar to that of Syria. See M. Niebuhr, f'oi/age en Ara/ife. X With' all the adVnntages'or soil and climate it is not surprising that Syria should have always been esteemed a 3 Y most I > 'J' V( l-vK,M ■■!i.r •■HI?:' if': I ! ♦' I 1^:^ r .'i\' 268 VOLNEY'i TRAVELS THROUGH on the roast, and in the desert, is more constant and regular than in our climates; tlic sun is seldom obscured for two successive da^'s. In the course of a whole summer, we see few clouds, und still less re in. It begins about the end of October, and is then neither long nor plentiful. The husbandmen wish for it -to sow what they call their winter crop, meaning their wheat and barley. In December and January, they have heavier and more frequent rain, and sometimes snow in the higher country. Sometimes also it rains in March and April, when the husbandman embraces the opportunity of sowing his sumvur crop of sesamum, doure, cotton, tobacco, beans, and water-melons. The remainder of the year is uniform, but the iidiabitauts more frequently complain of drought, than of too much wet. The winds in Syria are, in some drgrcc, pe- riodical, and governed by the seasons. About the autumnal equinox, the north-west wind be- gins to blow stronger, and more frequently. It occasions the air to be dry, clear, and sharp ; and on the sea-coast," it causes the head-ath, like the north-east wind in Egypt ; and more in the northern than in the southern parts. It also usually blows throe days successively, like the south and south-east at the other equinox, and it usually prevails till November. These ifrinds are followed by the north-west, the west, most delicious country, and that the Greeks and Romans ranked it among the best of their provinces ; they did not even think it inferior to Egypt. In more modern times, a Pacha, who well knew both these provinces, being asked to which he gave the preference, thus delivered his answer — " Egypt is certainly a most beautiful farm, but Syria is a charming country house." To the natural history of Syria we may add, that it pro- duces all our domestic animals, as well as the bufl'alo and camel, whose ability is so wdl known. We also find ga. zelles (antelopes,) in the plains, and a number of wild boars in the mountains. Jackalls are very numerous, they march in droves, and frequent the environs of towns, where they feed on what carrion they can find. They never attack any person, but are ever ready to save themselves by flight. Every evening they give each other the watch word, to begin howling, and sometimes amuse themselves thus, in very doleful strains for a quarter of an hour. In unfrequented places there are also hyenas, and ounces ; (properly called) but the country is free from lions and hears: water-fowl are plentiful; but game is not so abun. dant : The hare and the red partridge are the most common. The colibri, (or humming bird) still exists in the territory •f Saide. Them, and the pelican, are the only remarkable birds in Syria. The ^ualitiei of Utc ai. and waters ia Syria ought aot to ' 1 and the south-west, whicfi continae from Noretn. ber to February. In March the pernicious ^rjnj, arise from the southern quarter, with the &an)e circumstances as in Egypt; but they nre li^l violent as we advance towards the north, j more supportable in the mountains, than in the I flat country. Their duration, at each return is usually twenty-four hours, or three days, Tb^ easterly winds, which follow, continue till Jun^ when a north wind succeeds. At the same sea. son, also, the wind varies through all the pninij i everyday ; passing with the sun from theeastiJ the south, and from the south to the west, to return by the north, and then re-commeiicc iliel same circuit. A local wind, called the h bree/e, at this time prevails along the coast) during the night; it springs up after siui-setj continues till sun-rising, and extends onlj twourl .three leagues out at sea. No country is better adapted to observation}! than Syria: the confined horizon whicli buuiidJ our view, circumscribes also our ideas, Inl Syria, on the contrary, an immense scene opcii! before us, and the great agents of nature arc I collected in a place where her various operalioiuj may be waitched. To the west is displayed t!ie{ vast liquid plain of the Mediterranean ; to thel cast, the vast desert, but absolutely dry: AmidstI these two level surfaces, rise the mountains, of) remain unnoticed. These eU^mcnts in S/ria prrscnt Trryl remarkable phenomena. On the ni ntains, ar.ii all ilml plains, which stretch to the eastward, the air is light, purpJ and dry ; but on the coast, and narticularly from Alci.l andretta to Yafa, it is moist and heavy. The air uf ihJ desert, and the mountains, though not unwholugoniefursudil as are in no danger of pulmonary complaints, is injuriouil to those who are ; and it is neccss.iry to send such fromj Aleppo to Lahakic or Saide, The salutary air on thjf coast, is, however, over-balanced by those that arc per.l nicious : and it may, in general, bi; proiuiiiiu-ud iinhcilthyj as it occasions intermittent and putrid f.'yi;rs, with ilcJ structions of thcoyL-s, Tlic evening dew.*, and sleepinjoi the terraces, are found much less prejudicial in the iiioun^ tainous and interior parts of the country, the distance fruni the sea being greater. There is also a remarkable ditrerencein (he waters ofthij country: In the mountains, that of the springs is light anJ good; but in the plain, both to the east and west, wo fiiiij nothing but brackish water, which becomes mure so tha nearer we approach the desert, where there is nut a (Iroj of any other. From this inconvenience rain is so desirablJ to the inhabitants of the frontiers, that they have at al times taken care to collect it in wells and caverns, propcrll closed: hence, among all ruins, cisterns arc usually som of the first things that wc discover. V'iiicl SYRIA AND KCVPT. 26£) I which the summit* are so many observatories, Ifom whence objects at thirty leaguej distance mav be perceived. Four observers might discern the whole extent of S}'ria„ They-might observe how tiie region of the sea, at first unclouded, ytil§ itself with vapours; how these vapours form into grou pes, and separate, and by a per- notual mechanism, ascend above the mountiiins : while the desert, invariably clear, never produces clouds, and has only those it has received froui the sea. They would be sensible of the truth of HO axiom, which should no longer be disputed. That the heat is greater in proportion as wc Lpproach the surface of the earth, and diminishes jswc remove from it." Hence it seems to pro- ceed only from the action of the rays of the sun upon the earth. In »hort, they might attempt tlie solution of the greatest part of meteoroiogicul problems. gjria, as well as Egypt, has had many revolu- lions, which have confiuinded the diflereut races of its inhabitants, Within two thousand live hundred years, it has been ten times inviuied, mdthe invaders have introduced into that country a succession of foreign nations. First, the As- syrians of Nineveh, who, about the year 750 before the Chistian a;ra, obtained possession of almost the whole country lying to the n()rtli of Jiidea. Next the Chaldraiis, or Babylonians, who completed the conquest of Syria, except the Isle of Tyre. The Chalda;ans were followed by the Persians, under Cyrus; and the Persians by the Macedonians, under Alexander. It then appeared probable that Syria would cease to be subject to foreign powers, and that it «ould obtain a distinct independent government ; but the people, who found in the Seleucida only despots and oppressors, perceiving they were reduced to the necessity of bearing some yoke, preferred the lightest ; and Syria, yielding to the arms of Pompey, became a province of the Roman empire. * Syria has not, like I^gyi^t, rofuscd to adopt tho Iforcigii races : they arc all bi-come equally naturalized to Itlic country. The inhabitants of the southern plains arc Inorc swarthy than those of the northern ; and these more liotlian the inhabitants of tho tnoun tains. The women of iDainascus and Tripoli are celebrated for the fairness of their Itoniplrxion and the regularity of their features, but as they Iperpctiially wear a veil, these perfcclioiis arc perhaps oTer- Intcd; no person having it in his power to make nice ob. li(tT.iiions. In several districts, however, the women are Ibiscrupulous. In Palestine, for example, mu-'^od women Vciccn unveiled, but want and fatigue have deprived them Five centuries after, when the ions of Thco- dpsius divided their immense patrimon}', this country changed the capital to which it was to appertain, without changing its masters, and was annexed to the empire of Constantinople. Such was its situation in 022, when the Arabian tribes, collected under the banners of MiThomet, seized it and nearly laid it waste Since that period, torn to pieces by the civil wars of the Talinitcs, and the Oniiniades, wrested from the Caliphs by their rebellious brothers, taken from them by the Turkman soldiery, invaded by the European crusaders, retaken by the Mamelukes of Egypt, and ravaged by Tamerlane and his Tartars, it at length fell into the hands of the Ottoman Turks, who have been its masters for two hundred and eighty-six years. These vicissitudes have introduced into the country so many distinct tribes of inhabitants, that the people of Syria must not be considered ''llffliilc';,'.' ' ■ >' I m 1270 VOLNEY'« TTIAVRLS THnOUGIT Svrin, by ilic mlliUry. persons in office, and the Turkiuaii liordeH*. Tlie Arabic of Syria itt muck harsher limn tliat of Egypt, but AI. J^icbuhr ntLyn, tliat of the iuliabitauts of Yemen, and the soutliern coast, is much softer, and gives a tlueitcy to tlic Arabic beyond what could have been supposed. Among the variety of inhabitants of Syria some are dispersed over diiferent parts of tlic connUy, and otiiers confine tiiemselvesto particulur spolsf . All their property consists in cattle; thfit u, in camels, buffuloes, goats, and aljcep. They live on milk, and sell or barter tUe surplus in the neighbouring country, for arms, clolhca, money, aiiU corn. Their women spin wool, and make carpeta. The mon aire vvbolly occupied \a smoking, and looking after their illocks. Con- tinually on hoisoback, with their lances on their shoulders, their sabres by their sides, and their pistols in their belts, they are expert horsemen, and indefatigable soldiers. The Pachalita of Aleppo and Damascus, which are the omIv parts of Syria they frcqueiit, are supposed to t^ontain thirty thousand wandering Turkmans. Miiny of these tribes pass, in sumnper, iptQ Armenia and Caramania. where plenty of grass maj be found ; and in winter they return to thpir, f^uj^mer quar^rs; The Turkmans are reputec^ ]VIus>M'.men, iuid, have generally submitted to the opei;atio4i, of ciccu/m- cision ; but they seem to giye tlieipsel ve» v^jy littl|U concern about religion- Tl'^y have r>/i)t (Ive re- putation of being robbe(a> like the Arabs, a^id they are said not to be d^Qficiient. ii| h"sp«,ttt,liity o* generosity. ^Vben we consider that the.y liv<; iu, plenty, w^itbout being i-i, aud the corr * At Alexandretla, and Bciliiiii, they speak Turkish, but these places must be reg%rdccta$ fruntiers of Caramania, where Turkish is the vulgar tougiic + TheTurkmaus arc among the TRrtar hordes, who, on the great revolutions of tha empire of the Caliph, emi. Sated from the eastward of the Caspian Sea, and spread cmselves over the plains of Armenia and Asia Minor. Their language is tho same with that of the Turks, and their mode of life resembling that of the Bedonin Arabs. Like them they arc obliged to travel over immense tracts of 'land, to procure subsistence for their numerous herds. But the countries frequented by the Turkmans being rich ii( pasturage, they can feed more cattle on them, and arc con- fic(iue?itly less dispersed than the Arabs of the desert. I A third wandering people in Syiia, as well as in ruption of the merceuary inhabitants of (owns, The Curda arc another national body, tlie tribes of vfhich are di^ipersedovcr the Lowi'r Asia, and have nuicb extended themselves during tlie last ccntifty. Their original ruuiUry is tin; ilmm of mountains, from whence issue the dilKri'iit branches of the Tigris. In modern geography it is known by tlic name of Card-iHlan. 'fhii country is mentioned in the must ancient historiei of the east. Among the curds, each viilug;e has its chief, and the whole nation is divided into dlderent and independent factions. The dis- putes, inseparable from this slute of atiarchv, have detached from the nation a great tiumbcrof tribes and families, which have adopted the wan- dering lite of the Turkmans and Arabs. These arc dispersed in the Uiarbekir, and over the plains of Ar^roum, Erivan, Sivas, Aleppo, and Damascus. All their tribes united amount to about oue hundred and fok:ly thousand tcHls, or one hundred and forty tii oiisand armed men. Like the TrnkiuAti^ these Co r(U are pa«t«r4aii(l wanderers, bgt (li4JC«r from them in some particu- lar causes. The Turkmans give theix duu;j;'!ii<>rs a marriage dawqr ; the Curds receive a picmiuiiij for th^m. The Turkmans disregard anti(|uityof | extraction: theCurds esteem ilhighly honourable, The Turkmans have i^n aversion to slcuimg; the Curds are accused of being plunderer),, mid art therefore much dftaded in. the umig^hbouilioudun Aleppo, Antipch. 4s^'. In their Pach;ili(>, and in that qC Ii They are repuUij Maii^rnQtan^ but think little of religious rJlejI or opinions. The language of the Curds ii divided i^iio UireQ di;ilect^ It has neilli(;r tiioj a^picajtionp, uor th^ gult^j^iaj&of.the Arabic |. The Hoil, hou^ever, varies, cqusiderably iu dif- Rgy.pt, arothe Bednuin-Arubs. With rcspectto the An1»,| they scorn especially, coudemncd to a wandering lift', lit lb nature of the deserts. To have an idea of these (li'scrt$,| the reader must imagine to himself a sky almost pcrpctiijllr] inflamed, and without clouds, immense plains, wiiJKJutj houses, trees, riyulets, or hil|$ : where the eye !;('iH'tall;| meets nothing but an extensive and uniform horizon, lik«| the sea, though in some places the land is uneven and stony.] Almost naked on every side, tho soil presents nutliiiit; a few wild plants, thinly scattered, and thickets, whihJ solitude is hardly ever disturbed but by antelopes, harcsl rats, and locusts. Such is the description of the wIidI^ cquntry, wiiich extends six hundred leagues in )eni;th, anl three hundred in breadth : it stretches from Aleppo lu iliaj Arabiai\sea, and from Egypt to thcl'crsian gulph. fereufl SYHTA AND FCYPT. 't\ 271 f^ri-nt places: On Uie froittiers of Syria, for cx- ain|'l«, the earth is cultivable, and even fruitful. y iiiiM'li may be siaid of thc> bunlcH of the Eu- i)|iralt'!< : but in the interior p:irtf) of the country, 1,11,1 (owords the south, it becomps white and ihulliV, ns in Ihtt parallel of Damascus: rocky, .,; in the Til), and the Ilcdja/; nnd u pure ^and, ;nt(> the eastward of tlie Vt-nicn. This viuiety III the qualities of the soil occasions some minute diilei'-iifes in the condition of the Bedouins : for iibtaiire, in the most sterile countries, the tribes me rccble, and very distant, as in the desert of Suez, that of the Red Sea, and the interior of the Great Desert, called the Najd. Where the joil is more fruitful, as between Damascus and (he Euphrates, the tribes are more numerous, and not so far distant from each other : and in the cultiv; 'le districts, the camps are frequent and conlieuous. In the former case, the Redouins subsist oidy on the produce of their herds a few dates, nod llesh meat, whirh they eat fresh, or dried in the sun, and reduced to a powder. In the latter, they cultivate some land, and add cheese, barley, and rite to their tlesh and milk *. No creature seems more peculiarly fitted for the soil and climate it inhabits than the camel. It cnnnot be doubted but the nature of the one, has been adapted to that of the other by sonic disposing intellig;encc. Designing the camel to dwell in a country where little nourish- ment is to be found. Nature has been sparing of her materials in his formation ; she seems to have furnished him with nothing but what is absolutely necessary : she has not bestowed on bin) the plump fleshiness of the ox, horse, or elephant ; she has given him a small head with- out ears, at the head of a meagre long neck witL- I out flesh. She has withheld from his legs and (liighs every muscle not absofutely requisite for inution, and. has barely given to his withered * The causes of the sfeiilky and unriilliTatod state of I tliic can add a small quantity of iiKirse Hour, or a sinuli l)all of rice. Meat is oiilv to he ivtoii at the greatest festival-i : and tliey never kill a kid but for a marriage or funeral. lU times of deurtii, the coiiMWon people do not disdain (he nio>^t wretched kinds of food, and vM rats, lizards, locusts, and serpents. litit wu are liy no means Jtistiflcd in concluding, that the fruijality of the Arabs is a virtue of choice, or even of tPiuate. The extreme hoat facilitates their abstinence, by liestroyinf; that activity which cold gives to the stomach. Tlicir bein^ habldialcd to a sparing diet .tiso ))revenls the extension of that part, and enables them the bctlei to sujiport abstemiousness. * The ))rincipai shaik in every tribu defrays the cxpcnces •f all who arrive ut, ur quit the cumi) ; liu recuivcs the k9 The tribes which live in the TJeinity of d^ Turks are still in more danger of attacks and alaiYns ; for these strangers arrogating to tiieiu. selves, in right of conquest, the property of the whole country, treat the Arabs as rebel vussals or as dangerous enemies. And on this principle' they continually wage secret or open war against them. Each tribe is composed of one or more prjn. cipal families, the numbers of which bear the title of shaiks, i. e. chiefs or lords. These families resemble the patricians of Rome, and the nobles of modern Europe. One of thcsliaiks has the supreme command ov^r the oiliers. i[e is general of their little army, and enjoys the title of Emir, signifying commander and Prince, To these he adds particular adherents whom he studiously attaches to him by kindness and gene- rosity. A number of small families, who arc not wholly independent, stand also in need of hi? protection and support, and therefore range them- selves under his banners. Such an union is called kabilii, or tribe ; and these tribes aredistino uished from each other, by the name of their respective chiefs, or by that of the ruling family. The government of this society is at once re- publican, aristocratical> and even despotic, with- out exactly attending to any one of these forms. It is republican, as the people have a great in- fluence in all aAairs, and every thing is transacted by the consent of a majority. It is aristocratical, because tlie families of the shaiks possess some of the prerogatives which every where accom- pany power ; and it is despotic, because the prin- cipal shaik has an indefinite and almost absolute authority *■ The simplicity and poverty of the lower cla:s of the Bedouins is proportioned to that of their chiefs. visits of ^'':0 allies, and every person who has bii.«iniiis In transact with him. Contiguous to liis tent is a iarjjc pavilion, for the reception of all slrans^ers and pas.sciigiTS, There frequent assctnbiics of the shaiks and prunipai niM are held 'o determine on peaco and war, on cncanipmcnis and removal.-, and on tile ditl'ercnces with me 'I'lukisli governors, and the villages ; as well as the litigations ;i;ij quarrels of individuals. To this crowd, which enters sac. cessively lie must kce[) open table: it is indeed of ii^i. portance to liim to be generous ; as on the exercise of ^ciic. rosity depend his credit an'd his power. The Arab |ilact'! I the liberality which feed* him before any other virtue, They bear in mind the proverb, A Close Fist has a Xam;} i Heart. To defray these expences, the shaik has only bi) herds, a few spots of cuUivaled ground^ the protils of pliiudcf, SYRIA AND EGYPT. 273 (liiefs. All the wealth of the family is like the following inventory. A few male and femaje camels; a mare, her bridle, and saddle, some goats, and poultry ; a tent, lance, a crooked fibre, a rusty musquet, a pipe, a portable mill, a pot for cooking, a leather bucket, a small coftee-ioaster, a mat, some clothes, a mantle of black woollen, and a few glass or silver rings, which the women wear upon their legs and irms. But what the poor man takes the greatest pleasure in, is his raare : with her the Hedouiii makes his excursions agaiusf hostile tribes, or seeks plunder on the highways. The wants of the Arabs, indeed are few, aud their iiidiistr} is very inconsiderable : all their arts con- jijt in weaving their clumsy tents, and in making mats and butter. They are absolute strangers to I all science : all their literature consists in reciting 1 (ales and histories, like the Arabian Nights En- (ertainaients. They delight exceedingly in such stories. The Bedouins have also their Love Solids, which abound with sentimental and na- I tiiraUhanicterd. When we consider how much the condition of the Bedouins especially in the Desert, resembles that of the siivag«:;s in America, I it i.oems wonderful that they should not have the I same ferocity. It seems, at first view, lluit America, being [rich in pasturage, lakes, and foresls, is more ailapled to the pastoral mode of life than to any [other. But when we consider that tliese forests, Jby affording an easy refuge to animal*, protect Itliem securely from the power of man : we mar jreiHonablv conclude th:it the savage has become a hunter instead of aslic|)berd, by the nature of (ihccountrv. In isj in general, so much esteemed as that of (U Bedouin Arabs; and it is remarkable (hat th. same virtues are equally to he found in UieTurt man hordes, and the Curds. Among these also religion is perfectly free from exterior forms; no man has ever seen, among the Bedouins, tlie Turkmans, or Curtly cither priests, templcj, or regular worship. ( ufiv.-:. ^.*< i *.M. it'i. t*^i.r^K! fastings, his prayers aiuMils pover'y, passed for a saint. But a magislrate, alarined at his proeeeilini^s, sei/ed him, and coinmiMed him to prison. In (his reverse of fortune, a poor girl, who was shya to the gaulcr, took pity on him, nations: which shews that the human mind is capable of the uiost extravagant excesses, as well as the most palpable absurdities. Historians remark, that, uotwithstaiulintr tlie vicinity of Antioch, Christianity penetrated very feebly into these countries : very few proselvtej were made there, even after the reign of Julian. and from that period to the invasion of the Arabs there was but little time for its estahliaiiincnt The progress made by Christianity among tliosc moimtaineers, could only tend to pave the way for Mahometanism, a doctrine more suitable to their habits and inclinations. About one hundred and fifty years after, Mahommed-el-Dourzi having formed a sect, the Ausarians did not approve of its principal article, the divinity of the Caliph Hakem : on this ac- count they remain distinct from the Druze$, though they agree with them in several parti- culars. Some of tiie Ausarians believe in the Metempsychosis; others reject the imraortalitvof the soul. In general, ci\il and religions ana chy is so prevalent among them, that they adopt what opinions they think proper, follow- ing the sect that best pleases then nd frequently attaching themselves to none. Their country is divided into three principal! districts, and their tribute is paid to the pacha ofl and garc him his liberty. She tcilc the keys of the pritonl f om under the pillow of her master, liberated the old nun, and afterwards returned them to (he jMace from wheiue ■•'le I had (aken thriu. From this transaction, it was reported, I and generally bcliavrd, (hat he had been delivered by id I angel. He therefore found little difficulty in cstablishiiigil acw sect called, from him, . tusaiians. Tripoli.] rcligiom that they I follow- requcntlj I princiitall padia o(| tho pri'.w I |m oM nian, Iwhtiue -^e | Is ri'portw), }cri'il by in I |tablishlii|!i| Tripoli.! SYIUA AND 'KGYPT. 275 Tripoli. Their mountains are not so elevated as (lioseof Lebanon, and arc therefore more capable of fiiltivation. Thej aie, however, more cx- uosed to (lie Turks, and are more thinly inhabit- ed lliiui those of her neighbours the JMaronites jnil ilie Druzes. k THE MARONITES. Between the Ausarianx to the north, and the Pruzes to the south, we find an inconsiderable iiroplfi known under the name of jManarna or Mnroiiilcs. Their origin and progress have ],L.(n much discussed by ecclesiastical writers; liiit all that is known with certainty respecting tlicm, may be thus related. Towards the conclusion of the sixth age of the (luircli, while the spirit of retirement from the vorid was novel and fervid, a hermit, named J\I(iruun lived on the banks of the Orontes, who liv his fasting, austerities, and solitary mode of life, attracted the respect of the neighbouring people. In the disputes which then arose be- tween Rome and Constantinople, he exerted his iiitorcst in favour of the western Christians. His death, instead of abating the ardour of his fol- lowers, gave fresh energy to their zeal : Reports had been propagated that miracles had been vToiight by his remains, inconsequence of which iiianv persons from Kinesrin, Awasem, and other I places, built at Hama a chapel and a tomb, i ulicnce soon arose a convent, much celebrated in j tliat part of Syria. The dissentions of the two Metropolitan I (luirchcs increased, and the whole empire entered hvarinly into the quarrel of the priests and princes. I About the end of the seventh century, a monk, named John the Maronite, from his eminent talents as a preacher, obtained the reputation of being one of the most powerful supporters of the cause of the Pope. Their opponents, who supported the cause of the emperor, and were therefore called JVIclkitcs, or Royalists, made great progress at that time in Lebanon. To op- jposc them the more cHectually, the Latins re- Solved to send thither John the Maronite : he was [accordingly presented to the agent of the Pope at Antioch, who, after consecrating him bishop of Diehal, sent him to preach in that part of the world, ilohn lost no time in rallying his parti- jcHiis, and in augmenting their number; but, op- VoL, H. No, LXXXVn. * C'cdrcnuv. posed by the intrigues, and even the attacks of the Melkites, he collected all the Latins, uiid settled himself with them at Liobanon. This is related by the historian of the Lower Empire in the following words: '• In the eighth year of the reign of Constantine Pogonatus f A. D. 670), the Mardaites, collecting themselves together, to;^k possession of Lebanon, which became the asv lum of vagabonds, and all sorts of rabble. They grew so powerful there, as to stop the progress of the Arabs, and to compel the Calij)h Moawia to request of the Greeks a truce for thirty years, obliging himself to pay a tribute of fifty horses, one hundred slaves, and ten thousand pieces of gold »." The name of Mardaites, used by this au- thor, is derived from a Syriac word, signifying rebel, and is oppo.scd to JVIclkites, or Royalists. Before Constantino Pogonatus, the mountains became the refuge of malcontents, or rebels, who fled from the bigotry of the emperors and their governors. It was probably, from a simi- larity in their opinions, that John and his disciples took refuge there ; and, from the ascendancy they acquired, or already possessed, the whole nation took the name of Maronites. John, however, established order and military discipline among the mountaineers, and provided them with arms and leaders. They employed themselves in com- bating the common enemies of the empire, and their little state soon became masters of almost all the mountains as far as Jerusalem. The schism which, at this juncture, took place among the Mahometans, facilitated their conquest. Moawia rebelling against Ali at Damascus, Caliph Koufa, to avoid engaging in two wars at once, made a disadvantageous peace with the Greeks in 078. Seven years after, Abd-el Maiek renewed it with Justinian II, on condition that the emperor should free him from the Maronites. To this proposal Justinian consented, but was base enough to get their chief assassinated by an am- bassador. Soon after another persecution menaced the Maronites with destruction; for the same Justinian sent troops against tliom, who destroy- ed the monastery of llama, and massacred five hundred monks: after which they extended the war into Kesraouan; but, happily, Justinian was deposed, when on the point ol causing a general massacre in Constantinople: and the Maronites '...i«*M § ■hi v: M 4A autliorized 27(J VOLNEY's TRAVELS THROUGH authorized by his successor, attacked Maurice', and slew the greater part of his army, in an en- gagement in which he himself perished. From this period we lose sight of them till the invasion of the Crusaders, with whom they were sometimes in alliance, and sometimes at variance. During this interval of more than three centuries, they were deprived of part of their possessions, and reduced to their present state, paying tribute whenever the Arabian or Turkman governors were able to compel them. This was the case vith the Caliph of Egypt, Ilakem-Bam-Eliaij, who in 1014, ceded their territory to a Turk- man, Prince of Aleppo. About the year 1215, tiic \Iaronifcs effcL'ted a re-union with Rome. AViliiani of Tyre, who relates this circumstance, s;iy?, they had forty thousand men able to bear arms. In concert with the Druzes, and their emir, the celebrated Faker-cl-din, they made continual encroachments on the Ottomans; but Amarath the Third, sending against them Ibra- him, Pacha of Cairo, that general reduced them to obedience, in 1588, and subjected them to the annual tribute*. In religious matters, the Maronites are de- pendent on Home, They acknowledge the su- premacy of the Pope, but their clergy elect a lifad, with the title of patriarch of Aiitioch. Tlu'ir priests marry, bnt their wives must be niaiilens; and they are not peiuiitted to marry a second time. They celebrate mass in Syriac. * Since that luiriod, the l-'.iciiiis have frpqiiciUly attempted to iiitrcduci^ thi.i;' gariisous into the iiioiiiitaiiis of liie JVlaronitt'b ; liiit, hcinjj; cunstaii^ly repulsed, they have been obliged to abide by tlicir treaties. The subjection of (he Maronites therefore only consists in the payment of a tribute to tlic Pacha of Tripoli, of whom they hold their country. This impost is priM('i|)aIly levied on the mulberry trees and vineyards, which are almost ilic sole ob'-cts of culture The form of government is fonnded m(»rely on usages and customs. Thus (he government preserves itself in a natural ccjuilibriuni ; fdr, customs suiJiil^ina; the place of laws, the Maronites are, to (his day, eiinally s(ranners to the op- prci-sion of despolisin, and the (iisordtsrs of anarchy. 'J'lie nation may be saiil to be divided in(o tw o classes ; (he connnon fieupie, and the hliaiks ; the lader must be understood to be (he mof-t einiiieiit of (ho iiihabilants, wlio, fromtheaii. tiquity ,jf (heir families, and (he opulence of their fortunes, are superior (o the connnon class. They are all dispersed in tile niountrtins, in villages, hamlets, anil detached houses. The whdie na(ion consists of ciikivators : every man uia:in^es iiis little domain, i'ven the shaikslivc in the same manner, but ll'.ej are di:>(inguished from the rest by a pelisse, i. hoise, uiid ftunic additional advantageii in board and The Gospel is read aloud in Arabic. Their priests have no stated revenues, but subsist on the produce of their masses, the generosity of their hearers, and the labour of their hands. Some of them exercise trades, others cultivate the soil and all are industriously employed for the sun^ port of their families, and the edification of their flock. Their poverty is rewarded by the respect they receive, and their vanity is incessiinilv flattered : whoever approaches them is iinxiouj to kiss their hands which they readily present, Each village has its chapel, and its priest; and each chapel has its bell: a thing unheard of in any other jiart of Turkey. The Maronites are vain of this privilege, and to preserve it pure, they will not permit a Mahometan to live ainnmr them. They also assimie to themselves tlie privilege of wearing the green turban, which except in this territory, would cost a Christian his lifef. In the country of the Maronites there are about two hundred convents for men and women, These religions are of the order of Saint Anthonv. The dress of the monks consists of brown coarje woollen stuff, resembling that of the rapiuhin friars io Europe: They never eat flesh, but in other respects their food is the same as that of the peasants: they fast frei^tiently, and make Inn-r prayers at stated hours in the night, as well as the day. The court of Rome, in afiiliatiiiirihe Maronites, has granted them an Ilospitiuni at lodging. Tiisy all live frugally, and have but few ciijiv. nienis Their wants aic also I'cw, fur they are uu.icquaiiu. ed with (lie ideas of luxury. The nation, indeed is poor, but no one wants necessaries. Property is held as sarri^ among them as in Kurope, nor are robberies and e\(or. tions so frequent among them as among tin- Turks. Tri. vellers may pass with safety, either by night ord.iy; ami I the stranger is reeived with hospitality. They have, liow. ever, retained the Ar:ib custom of retaliation, and the mar. est relation of a murdered person engages to aveiig,' him, Kvcry man, whether shaik or peasant, walks armed mIiIi I a musquet and poniards; hence they are not novices in tlie use of arms, when required to bo employed ag.ii'ist ihe Turks. The number of men capable of bearing ariiii, amounts to thirty. live thousand. + l(aly has not a greater plenty of bishops than (liiil little corner of Syria; and (hey s(ill re(ain the siin|ili(it^| of the primitive ages; they are of(en seen on (he roaJs, mounted on a mule, and followed l)y a single Sarii,^!?;!, Their usual annual revenue does not exceed si\(v-tliia'J poui>ds, which, ill this plentiful country, enables (hum to I live very conif(ir(dlily. They are chosen froui the class ufl monks, but the priests, in general, know very little inoiiil than the catechism and the bibk. Roincl SYRIA AND EGYPT. 277 Rome, to which they send many of their youtJi, I to receive a gratuitous education. THE DRUZES. The Druzes, of whom frequent mention has I wn made about the end of the sixteenth century, are an inconsiderable people, whose, mode of i life language, and customs bear a striking re- semblance to the Maronites. They practise liieillier circumcision, nor prayers, nor fasting; Ljey observe neither festivals nor prohibitions. liiev drink wine, eat pork, and permit marriage Lehveen brothers and sisters, though not between fathers and children. From hence it may be cnncliiil«J that the Druzes have no religion; one i1a«of them itnist, however, be excepted, whose rdio-ious customs are very singular. Those who L„f|,o<,e it, assume the name of Okkals, which liiieaiis spiritualists: they have various dogrucs of liiiitiiition, the highest orders of which require lallibacy: these wear a white turban, as a sym- Ibol of their purity; and so vain are they of liliis emblem, that they even suppose them- Llves sullied by barely toucliing a profane per- son. To eat out of their plate, or drink out of llheirciip, occasions the immediate demolition of Ibotli the offending articles. They have one or two books, which they care- Ifiiilv conceal; but chance has betrayed their Iccrec}: these volumes contain only a mystic |i:iri,'oii, which seems to be principally valuable Ihuii its obscurity. Hakem Bamr-ellah is there Imikcn of, by whom they mean (Jod, incarnated In the person of the Caliph: it also treats of Liilher life, and of ftiturc rewards and punish- [pioiits, where the Okkals shall be most distiuguish- Many degrees of perfection are mentioned, |lo which they arrive by successive trials. In Jolhcr respects these sectaries have abundance of iDioleuce and superstition*. < The rest of the Driizcs, wlio aro not thus spiritualized, Ifc perfectly indifferent about ruiii<;ious matters. The riirislians, who live in (lieir country, pretend that many if lliom bi-iicTe' in the Meteuipsycho.-is ; that oliu'rs |)ay lieir atioratious to the sun, moon, and stars. When they Irp among the Turks, tliey atiect tiie exterior of iVluhoinct- Ins, attend the nuistpies, and perform their ablutions and Iraycrs: amoni; the Maronites, they aeeompany ihem to l.'iuich, and, iniitatiuf; Iheni, m;ike n>e of holy water. llaii) of lliiMii, a( the rt-quest of Missiouarie.'', suffer them. liL's to be bapli/cd; uud, when importuued by the Turks, The Druzes, as well as the Maronites, consist of two classes; the common people, and those of eminence and property, distinguished by the title of Shaiks, and Emirs, or descendants of Princes. The most considerable part are cultivators^ either as farmers or proprietors: every man manages his inheritance, improving his mulberry trees and vineyards, andj in some districts, superintending his tobacco, cotton, and grain. The chief, called Hakcm, or governor, is a sort of king, or general, uniting, in his own person, the civil and military powers. His au- thority sometimes devolves from father to souj sometimes from one brother to another; ancl sometimes the succession is determined rather by force, than bv" the operation of certain laws. Females are totally incapable of this dignity. Among the Druzes, when the male line of any family becomes extinct, the government devolves to him who possesses the greatest number of suffrages and resources. But the approbation of the Turks must be first obtained, of whom he becomes the vassal and tributary. The office of governor is to watch over the affairs of slate, and to prevent the Emirs, Shaiks, and villages from engaging in war against each other: and, in case of disobedience, he may employ force. Being at the head of the civil power, he names the Cadiz, always reserving to himself the power of life and death, he collects the tribute, of which he pays to the Pacha a stated sum. This tribute varies, according to the exigences of the state. Every thing, however, depends upon circum- stances: if the governor be a man of ability, he is absolute; if weak, a mere cypher. This is occasioned tVoni there being no fixed laws; a de- fect common to all Asia, and the radical cause of all the disorders in the government of the Asiatic nations f. By the last estimates it appears^ that the num- ber reeciTp circnmeision, and rontlude by dying, partly as Christians and partly as Mahometans. + Neither the chief, nor tlie respectire Emirs maintain troops; they only retain persons attached to the donieslic service of their houses, and a few black slaves. When a natiuii declares war, every man able to bear -m ' 'i ] 'i It 'lis VOLNKY's TRAVKLS TMROUGIT •av".. hex oi'iuen able to bear arms was foriy thoiisand. U inav Ibcroforc be reasonably asked, Whence aririL's Huch a portion of inhabitants, within so small a s-paro? — No other cause is apparent, but that rav of liberty which g;limraers in tlii.-i country. , l'nliK'> tlic Turks, every man enjoys, in perfect ^ securit V, his life and property. The peasant is | not richer than in other countries, but he is free: ' " lie fears not that the Ajuja, (he Kaimniakani, ! or the Pacha should si^id their soldiers to piilag-e ' his house, carry oil' his family, or give hin> the } bastinado," Such o]ipressions are never cxer- i cised amonf^ these mountains*. j The Uruzcs have all the prejudices of the ' Ijeilouius respectini;- birth; and, like them, pay ; proportionable nvspectto the antiquity of families, i Cut their rank does not exempt them from payings ' tribute, in proportion to their revenues. Every man, afler paying his miri, and his rent, is master of his property. By a particular privilege, * Troops of tliis kind, it may reasonably be supposed, liavo li((l.! resemblance to oiir F.iiroi)oan soldiers; tliey Iiare neither uniforms, nor discipline, nor order. They are a mob of peasants, with short coats, naked legs, and musqucis in (heir hands; but dili'ering from the Turks and JMame. Inkes, as they arc all on foot; the Shaiks and I'jnirs only Iiaviiii{ horses, which are but ill calculated for the ruj^ged nature of the country: war can therefore only bi' a war of posts. The Dru7.es never venture to engage in the plain ; •well knowing that they should be unable to stand the thock of cavalry, having no bayonets to their musquets. Their dexterity consists in climbing rocks, and creeping among the bushes, and blocks of stone, from whence (hey fire successfully; for, by the practice of hunting, and military sports, they have acquired the habit of hitting a mark with precision. They are accustomed to surprises by night, a;n. busrades, and those coups ilc wain, which require to attack sudilenlv, and come to close engagement with the enemy. In (he can)paign of 1781, they passed three months in tlie op;'n air, without tents, or any other covering; than a slicep.skin. Their provisions consisted, as before, of sni.'ll loaves baked on the ashes, che^-se, raw onions, olives, Irnits, and a little \vine. ']"aet;)l)!e of the chiefs was nearly as frugal. They art- totally ignor.xnt of the science of foitilicati'in, the managomeiU of artillery, or encampments, nor ;iny thing \vhich consiitutes the art of war. ■ •■ rile Druzos deMglu iu the practice of hospitality : wlio. ever prcM'iits himself at their door, as a suppliant or pas. spugcr, may depend upon being entertained with food and lodging, in the most g<,'ncrous and uun.lTectcd manner. I have often seen a jioor peasant bestow the last morsel of b;-^ A he had in the house to a hungry traveller ; and \»lieii \ \j\<: accused them of want of prudence, their answer ■> uMialiyto this c"' —" God is liberal and great, and >i : II are brethren. As there arc no inns in this country, an> ..lore than in the rest of Turkey; when they have once contracted with their guest, the cngagemeat of brctul ami f lit, nofliing can induce them to viohite it. Various in- <. i of this arer-.lafi'ii -, lu'liduliouourto their character. the Drir/.cs and iMaroniies pay no fine for iji^:. sticccssio'.i; nor does the Emir, like (ho Sultun arro!;a(e to himself original and uiii\crs,j pr()|;('r(y. FiUhers have, however, as in tli» iloiiiiuj law, the privilege of preferring suth of their children as they think proper. Tiie Druzes seldom make alliiinccs outof(I)ei( own i'amilies; they prefer even an indigent re- lalion to a rich stranger. They also observe, (o a certain degree, (he custom of the Ucbrews which directed that a brother should marry lij- brother's widow. In short, the Druzes Inlvea sort of republican spirit, which gives tlicai more energy than any other subjects of the Turkisli government, and an indiflerence about rclij^ioi, forming a striking conlrast with the zeal of the jNIahometans ami Chrisiians. In other respccit their manners and custoius are similar to tlioseoi the other Orientals. They may marry wives, and repudiate tlicmai The following anecdote is extracted from an Anbin nian\iscript. "• In the time of the Caliphs, w hen Ahdaliafc. the, Uiediter of blood, had murdered every descendjiiit uf Oinmiah, within his reach, one of that family, ninieii Ibr.thim, the son of Soliuun, had the good furtuiu' to oscap.', and reached Koufa in disguise. Not kiiowlm any person in whom he could confide, he sal down unjer the portico of a large house. Soon after, the master ar- riving, followed by several servants, alighted from lih horse, entered, and, seeing the stranger, asked liioi wlio he was? — / um an unforlunatc man, replies Ibraliim, ii:,j request from thee an (/"jjlu/u.—God protect thee, said th' rich man ; enter, ami remain in peace. Ibrahim lived sctenl mouths in this house, without being interrogated bv tis host. Hut, a>t(iMislu'd to see him daily go out on hon,'. b:ick, and r;'tiu'u ,it a particular hour, he one d■^y vonluroj to eiKi'.iire (lij renstm—l hft.'c been informed, ri'plii'd tli; rich mail, that a pcrxon named Ihruhim, the son of SuUim, ii e.ovcciilcil ill this toicn ; he hat \tain mi/ father, and In searrhiii/ fi/kee, imil God ;dll have retaliated. Uiit «> for me, ho:i- can I \:i(iklt ''u: sacred la -'s of hospitalili) .^ IVretfhed straiii(er, ji'/jn '!/ prctenrc — There, take these htudred seqitim ; licgoii (I'tirklj/, and kt me never belu only in the infancy of the social state. THE MOTOUALIS. In the deep valley of the country of the Druzc?, which separates their mountains from; those of J3amascus, we ihid another small nation, known in Syria by the name of Motoualis. Like the Persians, they are of the sect of Ali; while all the Turks follow that of Omar or Moa-via. The sectaries of Omar, who consider thems' Ives purely orthodox, assume the title of Somnites. The word JMotouali has the same meaning in the dialect of Syria. The followers of Ali, dis-- pleased with this name, substitute that of Adlia, which signifies asserters of Justice, a denomina- tion which they have assumed in consequence of a doctrinal point advanced by them in opposition to the Somnite faith. A small. Arabic Treatise, entitled theological FHAtiMKNTs, &c. has tlie following passage*. To this doctrine, which opposes tlie system of the Somnites, the Motoualis add certain cere- monies, which heighten their aversion: They curse Omer and Moawia as rebels, and con- sider Ali and Hosain as canonized saints. They commence the ablutions at the elbow, instead of the end of the finger, as practised by the Turks; and conceive themselves defiled by the touch of a stranger. Contrary to the general practice of the east, they will neither eat nor drink out of a vessel which has been used for cither of those purposes, by a person who was not of their sect, nor will they condescend to sit with him at the same table. These singular doctrines, fay separating the what is difficult: he inalics no mun responsible for the actions of anotherj nor jmnishes him for that in which ho has no part ; he imputes not as a crime what himself has • created in man; nor does he require him to avoid tvhat destiny hus decreed. This would be injustice and tyranny, . of which God is incapable, from the perfection of the divine nature." V- -^ ;y 1 1^ m 4B Motoualis ^■'. •i ■ L 280 VOLNEY's TRAVELS THROUGH Mofoualis from their neip:hbours have caused them to become a distinct society. They are said indecdj to have long existed as a nation in this country, but they have never been mentioned by any European writer till the present century. La Roque, who visited their counfry about. a hundred years ai^o, gave th<;m the name of Ame- dians: but in later times, their >vars, robberies, and various changes of fortune, have brought tijem in(o consequence in Syria. Till about the middle of this century, they only inhabited Bal- bec, their capital, a few places in the valley, and Anti-Lebanon, which appears to have been their original country. After 1750, they established themselves among the heights of Beck, and some of them got footing in IjCbanon, where they pro- cured lands from the INIaronites almost as far as Bosharrai. They even became so olfensive by -their ravages, as to induce the Emir Yousef to attack and expel them. But, on the other side, lliey advanced along the river, to Ihe neigliboju'- hood of Sour. In this situation, Sliailt Dasher took an opportunity, in 1760, -'^w SYRIA AND EGYPT. 281 1 JkpP"> ^- '^'''P^^'^' ^- '^""'t'» '''tely removed 1. y^crc— 4'. Damascus, and 5. Palestine, the I ratoJ" which i* sometimes at Gaza, and somc- ics at Jerusalem. Since the time of Selim, |,[jg limits of llic Pachttlics have frequently varied, Ibiit s a stated allowance of eighty Ihoii'aiid piasters (eight thousand three hundred and thirty Bounds.) A sum which has always been found inadequate Io ll.Cixiiences; for besides being obliged to maintain the troops, Ind rtpair the highways and fortresses; he is also \indcr the lrasi.ily of making large presents to the minister to enable lim to keep possession of his placp. lint iIk; I'orte adds to Ik' account, the contributions he may levy on the Curd^ ^ad Turkmans, aad his extortions from the vilUirt,^, and Custom has stipulated that the comnnission of the Pacha shall not exceed the period of three months; but it is frequently extended to six, and even to twelve months. His olfice is to enforce obedience in his province, and provide for the security of the country against enemies ; to accom- plish this, he maintains five or six hundred horse, and about the same number of infantry, lie has also the command of the Janisaries, u sort of enrolled militia. The Janisaries, in each Pachalic, consist of a certain number of enrolled men, who must hold themselves in readiness to march whenever they are required. There being certain privileges and exemptions granted to this corps, there is a competition to obtain admission into it. They were subject formerly to regular exercise and discipline, but thiit practice having been neg- lected for the last sixty or eighty years, not the slightest trace of their ancient good order remains. These sham soldiers are merely a crowd of arti- sans and peasants; as ignorant as the rest of that class, but infinitely more ungovernable. W hen a Pacha abuses his an thority, they arc the first ready to erect the standard of stMlition. They deposed Abdi Pacha from Aleppo, and obliged the Porte to send another in his stead. The 'rurkish government, indeed, revenges itself, by ordering the most active mutineers to be strangled, but the Janisaries take the earliest opportunity to create other chiefs, and afiairs return immediately to their usual course. The Pachas, finding their measures thus counteracted, have had recourse to the expedient made use of in similar cast's; they have taken foreign soldiers into their service, who have neither friends nor families in the country f. Ky such initiuitous proceedings, the greater part certain individuals ; nor do the Pachas come sliort of this calculation. Alidi Pacha, who governed about thirteen years ago, carried away with him, at the end of fifteen mouths, upwards of four millions of livres (one hundred and sixty lliousind pi)iii\ds) by laying under contribution every kimi of trade. IJe. did not even ctciiso the poor cleaners of tob.irro ])ipcs. A'ery lately another person has been oblii^ed (o liy for similar opprcssipn.s. The former was rewarded with the command of the army ag.ainst the Russians ; but if the latter lias not sufliciently enriched him- self, he will be strangled as .an extortioner. Such things arc not very uncommon in Uic pro;;ress of affairs in Turkey. + Their cavalry are armed with short sabres, pistols, mustpiets, and lances ; they u enr a kind of cap, nine or tea. I V? i f: ■Ik I'-.;.-.! '^1 m % I'^Hii'--"^ m gage are contined to a rusty firelock, a large knife, a leathern bag, a cottoa shirt, a piJ of more than 'ix ett'ectives; for the j4s;a/i being entriiittf with the pay of the soldiers, maintain as few as poiisiblc, tJ secure to themselves the acttr- gncc of wretchedness and misery. It is situated , jj„ the southern bank of the Orontes, and is Uovercd 'ht have been towed, thoiigh (lifv could not ha\e sailed up j respondent tied a billet to the pigeon's foot, and let it loose. The bird, impatient to serits young, flewj-apidly avay, and arrived at AJeppo in ten vours from Alexandretta, and in two days from Bagdad. They had no diiTiculty in I indJDg their way back, as Aleppo may bs perceived at ao Vot. 11. No. LXXXVIL the tombp are more numerous than ihe bouses, and which owes its existence chiefly to the ronti .which it commands. This is tlie only road in Syria, where vessels anchor on a solid bottoni; but. in otlier rtfspects, it has niauy iiicour venienrcs. First, it is exposed, during winter, to avviinl, peculiar to this place" .which, rushing from the stiowy siunmits of the luountainii, fre- quently forces the ships to drag their ar.chors several lea<;'uc.s. Secondly, when the snow be- gins to cover the. mountains which environ the gulph, tenv|)e&tuous winds arise, which somc" times prevuut vessels from entering for two or three months together. Thirdly, the road from Alexandretta to Aleppo, by the plain, is infested by Curd robbers, who conceal themselves among the rocks*. A few years ago; the merchants of Aleppo, disgusted with the innumerable inconveniences (»f Alexandretta, wished to abandon that port, and carry the trade to Latakia. They proposed to the Pacha of Tripoli to repair the harbour ut their own ex pence, on his granting them an exemption from all duties for ten years. To in- duce him to co!Mply with this request they again talked much of the advantage, which would, in time, result to the whole cotmtry. "But, what signifies to nie what may happen in time ? replied the Pacha; why should I deprive myself of present advantages, which arc certain, for future boQetits I saunot hope to partake? The European factors were therefore obliged to re- main at Skandaroon. The only curiosity, vfith which they can amuse strangers, consists in six or seven marble monuments, sent from England; on vrbicii you read — Here lies such a one, taken immense distance. Thii, pigeon has nothing peculiar in its form, except its nostrils, which nre rougli and swelled iiisti'iul of bring smor»tl» and cvun. * Another reason, still more forcible, presents itself; the air of Alexandretta is unwholesome in the extreme. It is said to cairy oil one third of the crews of the vessels which remain there during the summer: it is not, indeed, thought extraordinary, for ships to l«isi< all their men in the course of two mouths. The .seaton for this cpiilcmic dis. order is usually from Mi^y to the end of Soptombca: it is a, malignant intermitting fever, accompanied with obstructions of the liver, tvhich terminates in a dropsy. The cities of Tripoli, Acre, and Larneca in Cyprus, are subject to the same, though in a^tess violent degree: the cause of this contagion h to be ascribed to the adjoining morai'ses, stag- nant waters, and coittequent vapouis and utephitic exhala.. tlous. AC off i:.'u \A i Mm. tM A-- l^^'Mti 2SV VOLNF-rs TnAVr.LS THROUGH u» m ; us it seems extremely jprffbal/le that they canaot long escape a siiuil.ir fate. But running water. That of the welFs is brarkisl). and the winter rains, on which the inliabitanh principally depend, sometimes fail. For thij reason, nothing can be conceived more nielancholi than these parched and dusty plains, withom trees or verdure; or more miserable tluui the an. pearance of the straw and earthen huts wlijc^ compose their villages; nor can more extreme distress be imagined than that of the peasant^ exposed to the cruel oppression of the Tiirki and the daring robberies of the Bedouin Arabs. TIIE PACIIALIC OF TllIPOLI. This Pachalic comprehends the country stretching along the Mediterranean, from Li' I takia to the Narh-el-Kelb, and is bounded the west by that torrent, and the chain of moun- 1 tains overlooking the Orontes. The greater part of this country is hilly; though the sea-coast, between Tripoli an I Latakin is level. Tliej rivulets, with which it is watered, gieatly pro. mote its fertility; but the plain is notwitlistani ing less cultivated than the mountains, without even excepting Lebanon, with its numerous rociu and pine-trees. Its principal productions are wheat, barley, and ctHton. In Latakia, tubacro and olives are chiefly attended to ; and in Lebanon, and the Kcsraouan, white mulberries trees audi vineyards. - 4,, , This Pachalic eontaina several tribes and re- ligions. From Lebanon to Latakia, the nioun-l tains are inhabited by the Ausarians; Lebanon,! and Kcsraouan by the Maronites; and the s(a- coast and cities, by Greeks, Latins, and the I descendants of the Arabs. The Pacha of Tripoli has all the privileges olH his place: the military deparimeot, and tliel fluanccs arc under his controui. He also t'arnvJ the government from the Porte, on an anniiall lease, k.^ the rent of thirty-nine thousand poumkl He is also obliged to supply the caravau of Mec- ca wit!) corn, the cxpences of which iire akoj estimat.id at seven hundred and fifty purses more,! Jle must likewise conduct this convoy into thcl Desert, to meet the pilgrims: to indcuinify iiiinl for these expences he receives the Miri, theiiis-f toms, and several other emoluments; bcsidcil they have some, rcKOihCC in the villai;* of Baileii, tlirocl leagues from Alexanurctta, the pure air aud cxcdtel waters of which arc found very salubrious. liio iiuilb;'n\.(recs, of whicli 2 Diasfl RVIMA AND EGYPT. US 5 JU. 1^ munv RiiinKil yines, the produce of the hill sides. At that time, Egypt was the market, by way of Alex- andria. Neither Latakia nor Tripoli arc places of strength ; they havie neither cannon nor sol- diers. A single privateer would capture theni both. Each of these places are supposed to con-^ tain four or five thousand inhabitants. On the coast, between these towns, wc ob*- serve several inhabited villagesj which were formerly considerable cities: such are Djebila Merkah, and Tartousa; but we find many places which are only half destroyed, with remains of ancient habitations. Among the latter, one of the principal is the rock of Rouad, formerly a respectable city and republic, known by tlie name of .iradns. Mot a wall is remaining of that multitude of houses, which, according to Strabo, had more stories than even those of R;);Tie. The liberty enjoyed by the inhabitants \ .".^ ihe cause of its becoming populous, and it subsisted by naval commerce, manufacture?, and' arts. propriety start such a pro|)osition : — but here tlicy never phint; for, should they venture to build or plant, lh« Pacha would say — "This man has got money ;" fie would send for hitn, and demand it of him. Should he deny that he is possessed of any, he must sutler the b.istinadb; — Should he then confess, the drubbing is still continued to extort a further discovery. The Tripolifans are not, how- ever, remarkable for their patience; they are, on the con. trary, considered as extremely mutinous. Their title of Janisaries, and the green turban they wear, glre turbiileiiee to their domineering spirit. About a dozen years agt), the extortions of a P.ieha drove them to extremities ; they ex- pelled him, and remained eight months in a state of inde- pendence; but the I'orte sesit a n»an of deep intrigue, who, l)y pronuses, oaths, and panloiii, gained, anil dispersed them ; and concluded by teriniuatinc, lite lives of eicht hun- dred in one day, Avhose heads may still be set» in a ca've near Kadishka. — Such is the goveruiuect of tlioTurksl To ?.l=" :..! .J 'fit': ii 1 .. :' I ^m U '283 TOLNEY's TPvAVELS THROUGH To the south of Tripoli is the country of the Kesraouan, extending from Nahr-el-kelb to Tri- poli. Djebail, the ancient Byblos, is the priii- tipal town in this territory, though it docs not contain above six thousand inhabitants. The river Ibrahim, the ancient Adonis, two leagues to the southward, has the only bridge to be seen from thence to Antioch, except that of Tripoli. It consists of a single arch, fifty feet wide, and about thirty feet high: it is of a light architec- ture, and seems to have been a work of the Arabs. The places most frequented by the European;?, among tlie mountains, are the villages of Edeii. and Basharrai, where the missionaries have a •house. lu the winter, many of the inhabitants leave their houses under the snow, and remove to the sea-coast. On the frontiers of tlie Kesra- ouan, a mile north of Nahr-el-kelb, is thevil- •lage of Antoura, where the Jesuits have esta- blished a respectable house. It is situated on the side of the hill; the limpid waters of which re- fresh its vineyards and mulberry trees: its distant view of the sea, and its command over the valley, also contribute to render it a most agreeable her- mitage. The Jesuits endeavoured to annex it to a convent of nuns, situated at the distance of a quarter ''*' a league.; but the Greek Christians having dispossessed them, they erected one oloee to them, to which they gnve the name of the » isitation. THE PAGHALIC OF SAIDE OR ACRE. To the south of Tripoli, and on the same coast, A third Pjichalic has, till now, borne the name of Saide, but may hereafter assume that of Acre, to which place the Pacha bad lately trans- » The Pacha enjoys all the privileges and cmoIumcnJs of his oifico ; he is despotic guvcrnor, and farinur^gcnpral. IJc annually remits to the Porte the Q\ud sum of seven linn. dred and tifly purses; and he is ulso obligml to furni'ih provisions for the pilgrims of Mecca. The time of his gurrrnment iv limited to a year, but this is generally pro. Ionised. His reveni' js arr; lite ftliri ; the farms of the tribu- taries; th': fees from .successions aiid extortion.s ; and the produce of the cubi'ii'.^: on e\port. Miriatcs \u partnership with merchants and manufauturerfi. and lends money at iutcrest to husbandmiu and tra'lcrii. * Every Pacha of three tails is sliled Visir. ferred his residence. TIip extent of this go^>cr^ ment has considerabl;^ v.iried at different times Before Shaik Daher it included the conntrvof the Dru'/es, and the coast as far as Mount Car. mel ; but, after the ruin of Daher, the govcm, ment resumed its ancient limits. , Djezzar, ^1,^ succeeded that chief in quality of Pacha fut the Turks, has annexed to the Paclialic (be countries of Safad, Tabaria, and Balbec. Thjj Pacha, perceiving the advantage of the wnrla erected by Daher at Acre, transferred his resi. dence to that city, which u now become the capital of the province. By these augm: ntations the Pachalic of Acre i now includes all the country from the Nahr-i kelb, to the south of Aaisuria. It derives (he j more importance from this extent, from its unitine the valuable advantages uf situation and sol The plains of Acre, &c. arc justly boasted for their fertility: Kasairia possesses a forest «|' oaks, the only one in Syria. Safad furnisha cottons, which, from their whiteness, are « highly esteemed as those of Cyprus: the mouif. tains of Sour produce as excellent tobacco a) Latakia; and in a part of them a perfume of •cloves is made, which is exclusively reserved lor the use of the Sultan and his women. The ccaii- try of the DruTie^ also abounds in wines and I sijks; and f-'^Ti the situation of the coast, and the numbe- of its checks, this Pachalic is become the emporium of Damascus, and &11 the interior parts of Syr '.a*. TNie Porte is now on good ttrrnis with Djt7,zar, I in consequence »f his former services; particularlrl for his having greatly contributed to the ruin ufl Daher f . By sea, he has or.c frigate, two galliots, andii .\cbecli, The total, aris.ng from these ditferout emoluments ii oili.l mated at between niut and ten millions of Fi 'chninncrl Cabout four hundred thuuiiand pounds.) The Irilinit, I when once settled, never varies; but if the Pacha hi'cgmt [ rich, methods arc employed to sqiui'ze him. lie is sunt. times permitted to accumulate long without mdlcitatioo;! but when he is known to have amassed great wcalLii, sogiil expedient will not fail to be contrived to bring lo L'uiistiii'[ tiaople his coH'ers or his head. I t He extirpated t'le family of that prince, embed tlfl Hedouin of Saker, humbled IIm Dnizes, and almost .iniillii.l lated the Motoualis. These successes secure! liiMliiHil government for ten /cars. He wiis lately fimiouri'iUiikl llio three tails, and the title of \i*ir* whicu acconijiaiiii-il them : but the Porte begins to \!f iVaJjus of his c.i-ilics and Schismatics, Mtiionites, and Dru/es, to tlit- number of about sixteen hundred. Tho paiac« of the prince is a large wretched house in a vr^ ruinous state f. the town, however, is siipposui! not to bo unhealthy, though it vfxs formui-ly thought so. It lias ceased to be un^r huaUliy since the Kmir Fakr-eUdIn, planted a wood of fir-r trees which arc still standing, a league to the southward of i!.? *^\vn. The monks of Mahr-ilcnna hare aiade this ob. servatioii lespecting several convents; they assert, that S!:ii:e lite heights have been planted with pines, the waters of (he springs have been more abundaut, aud moru lalu* brioir *■. + I'hc Greek Catholics, aTailing thcmsolvos of the per. philosoplicr.i ; ainnng others, hif the Murqin< de CliastcUiix, in his Travets to J^'orlk Amcrit\ , undtr the > (inie I'f'rginia. 4 D Bussioa !!'; *,l! ill-: lii m \\m 888 VOLNFT'g TRAVF.LS TrUTOUGTI ^t ; In the admlnisfration of ttiis house, and the mamurs of the rclip;ipus who occupy it, wo find Eoiuc sinulaiities which may deserve utteiitioii. Their outer is that of Saiat JBusil, who is to the Orit'otais wliat Saint Benedict is to the western (llnisliaiis. They may prouonuce, the vows at tiic age of sijcteen; and these vows are, as every whcrq else, vows of poverty, obeditniic, devotion, to the order, and, chastity. The condition of the oriental monks is iurinitely more severe than that of the Europeans, as appears from tlic foHowing account of their domestic life. They rise at four in the morning, and retire to rest at nine in the evening, during which time they have only two meals, viz. at nine and five. They live wholly en meagre diet, and hardly allow themselves llesh meat on the most necessary occasions. Like iiie other Greeks, they have three Lent^ a year, and a multitude of fasts, during which they are jiot to cat eggs, milk, butter, nor clicese. Al- most (he w hole year they live on lentils and beans vith oil, rice and butter, curds, olives, and a ■very liUle salt fish. They have a coarse little loaf of bread, badly leaveaed, which is to last them two days, and is fresh made only twice a week. "With tliis f'- '1 they suppose they are less subject to maladies than the peasants, though it is well known that they have all issues in their arms, and IKi.ny of them are attacked bykernias; occasioned, it is supposed, by their immoderate use of oil. Each of them lodges in a narrow cell, his whole lurni\ure consisting of a mat, a matrass, and a biai\kct. They have no occasion fo*" sheets, as they sleep with their doaths on, which consists of a coarse cotton shirt, striped with blue, a waist- coat, a pair of drawers, and a surplice of coarse brown cloth. Contrary to the custom of the CO ... iv, they wear their hair eight inches long, mi'Jsion ijraiifcd (hem for tliut iiiiiposi-, Iiavr foumlcd twelve roiivciils within (hi' l;ist sovont) jcars. 'i'hc ;)riiuipal of thcs(! in .Miir-Ilanii.l : i( is s)'ur>t( il oppohite (lie village of .Shonair, oti a "-teop i!ecli\i!y, a( the hoKoni of which a (or. Tent runs in wiiitvr into the Xahr-el kell». This convent cotiitists of a dormitory, witii two rows of tell.s, !>.:n\ maiti- tains forty monks. Ithasuit Ainliie I'rin'irtfj-press, the CMly one rthich has sncreeded iu (lie 'riirkish eni|)irc. • Tlio same regulations are obsiTved iii all the twelve houses of the order. The wlioli' niiiiber of tli;"^o rer::;i<)!is nmodnt to about one hundred ii;id lilty, wiih fife roiive.il? of women which depend on tli.ui. The iirs', Miperiors who established ihoin, supposed (hey had |)etf.)riiied a nuiitorioiis net; but they now repent that it has been done; because TuiDH arc danf^eroiis things in u Tiuki^ii country, wlio, as they arc connected with the wealthiest merchants, get rid o.*" and, by way oi" liood, a cylinder of felt ten ind,. high, like (hose of (iic I'urkish cavalry, j;;,^ one of them aiVd full of nioilern riiiii'? Oil the south side, iv foil js built on an (Mninciuoj iioiii whence a vienv iiiii._y be tukcn of tbe,seaj the gitv, and the cO«ntiy: ,a^vo^y few. cannon would (li>>ir(\v the whole work, which is pnly a tower of a tii)£;[e story, already half in ruins, At Ihe other cxlieinivr Qf •^''s towji);.i*,tl>e.'cas4le, built in the sea eighty paces from the main> land, to which it is joined l))" «i»'ebe8 To-t|»e wcsi is a siwal, filteen fpt't high above tile, »ea> and about ^w>o biiiidred paces long : thCiShoal has a bason, en- closed b.V a decayed pier. ; .this was tlie ancient jiflit, but it is now almost choakcd up by sand. 'i!\e whole artillery (^e^ rnot exceed six cannon, wii'uut either carriage^ or gunners : the ga,rrison bardly ainounts to- one hundred men. Saide is a capital trading town, the chief ctn- poriwn of Damascus, and the interior co,untry : inc Tronch have a consul here, ^nd five or six commercial ^houses. Their exports are silks, and jaw and spun cottons. The number of inhabi- tants may be cstimt^ted at about five thousand. Six leagues ia the south of Saide, keeping ali>"^t!".e coast, we artive at the village of Spur; ill which name we recognize that of, !/.V»v, which we receive from the Latins. Tliename.of J'l/rc recalls to the .mepiory so many great events, and iiiggests su ma^iy- refiectiot^, tha^ some minute- ncis will doubtless be excused iuthc. description nf a place which was anciently' the thttatre of an immense comuicrce. Sour r situated on a peninsula, projecting from li.e ^'j ire into the sea, in the form of a iiuillr' \v.i;'<; an oval hea^. This head is a solid rocii, .k i with brown earth, forming a plain iof ';. ; ;h' huiidrcd paces long, by fourjuiu- dredbr.).. ihc isthmus, joining this plaiu to llie coidini'rttj .s of pure sea sand. The village ul Suur iii situated at the junction of this isthmus * 'The imme still suiii. is hi a smiill village half a league ffum S:ii(l(>. + K/.iikii'i, eh. '27. I .Miio miles to liio south of Soiir sl.iiuls the cily of Aiic, .incioiKly known imjcr thu iiaino of Aco, and after- ■ *by thiit of I'tolomuis. After tlio expulsion of the J''r.s, it was almost ilosortml ; but it was afjain roviveil .' ^ Miliisfry of D.ihi'r: and lliiV works lately crectoi! by |J)j'z..-, h,i jiiidored it a very considerable town. 'J'lie muMjiic (if this Parha is considered a master.|)ie''e. of (^astern [ liistc; tho cyvcjcU market is e//.ar has only made it a landin[;.]>la(e for boats. Tlie fortilic.itions are unimportant : only a few rusty iron pieces f)f cannon so bad, that some of them burst every time of firing. Its defence on th> lanri bidu is aotliiu j more than a garden wall, without any dilcUt ■• • .^ n^ 290 VOLNEVs TRAVELS THROUGH anchor v/'iih the g^reatest security lies to the north of mount Carmel, below Haifa : the bottom is good holding ground, but this harbour is open to the north-west wind. Mount Carmel is a flattened cone, and very rocky ; it is about two thousand feet high. As we go towards the east, at about six leagues distance, we see J\'asra, or Nazareth, so celebrated in the history of Chris- tianity: it is a small village, a third of whose in- habitants are Mahometans ; the other two thirds are Greek Catholics. The fathers of the Holy Land have an Hospitium and a church here. In Daher's time, every one was obliged to besiow a present to every wife he married ; he seldom failed to marry about one a week. Two leagues to the south-east of Nasra is Mount Tabor, from whence is behek' hp finest prospect in all Syria : the sutnmit is U,'- 's of a league in circumference. It had anc ly a citadeJ, a few stones of which now only re- main. From hence we discover, to the south, a series of vallies and mountains, which extend to Jerusalem ; and to the east the valley of Jordan, and Lake Tabaria appears as if under our feet; beyond this, the eye loses itself towards the plains of Hauran : when, turning to the north, we take a cursory view of the fertile plains of Galilee. The bank of Lake Tabaria presents nothing remarkable : the town takes its name from the lake. It has a fountain of warm mineral waters in the neighbourhood : for want of cleaning, it is filled with a black mud, which is a genuine Ethiops Mineral. Persons afflicted with rfaeu- inatic complaints, find great relief from baths of this mud. The town is little more than a heap of ruins, and hardly contains a hundred families. Stven leagues to the north of Tabaria stands the village of Safad, the scat of Daher's power. Under the government of this Shaik an Arabian college was established there, in which the Mo- touaiis doctors instructed youth in grammar, and an allegorical interpretation of the Koran. The Jews, who supposed the Messiah will establish the seat of his empire at Safad, grew fond of this place, and assembled about sixty families in it; but the earthquake of 1759, demolished ■^ .-, J- ^ — The Pacha, by an abuse too coininon throughout the Turkish empire, has monopolized all the trade; no cotton rill Ite fiold but io him ; and from him urory purchase must be u\ade. The Kuropean merchants claimed the privileges gianted them by the Sultan, but in vain— Djezzar i>aid, he every thing, and Safad is now almost a desety village. Proceeding towards the north, we follow a chain of lofty mountains named Dejebal-el-Shaik among which are the sources of the Jordan, as well as those of several rivulets which water the plain of Damascus. Before the earthquake of 1759, the country was covered with the villages and plantations of the Motoualis ; but that cala- mity, and the war with the Turks, have occasion- ed general devastation. The only place of iQ. portance is the city of Balbec. That city, so celebrated by the Greeks and Latins, under the nanae of Heliopolis, or the citvof the Sun, is situated at the foot of Anti- Lebanon on the last rising ground where the mountain ter- minates in the plain. As we arrive from tlie south, we discover the city at the distance of about a league and ft half, behind a hedge of trees, over the tops of which appears a while edging of domes and Minarets. After an hour's journey we reach these trees, which produce ei- cellent walnuts, and crossing some gardens, ve arrive, by winding paths, at the entrance of the city. We there perceive a ruined wall, flanked with square towers. This waill enables us to tske a view of those void spaces and heaps of ruins which appear in every Turkish city ; but what greatly attracts our attention, is a large edifice en the left, which by its lofly walls, and rich columns, seems to be one of those temples, which antiquity has left for our admiration. These ruins, which are some of the most beautiful in | Asia, as well as the best preserved, demand i particular description. After having croswd^ the rubbish and liiils, I with which it is filled, we arrive at a part which appears to have been a square : there, in a front towards the west, we observe a grand ruin, con- sisted of two pavilions ornamented with pilastres, joined at their bottom angle by a wall one hun- dred and sixty feet in length. The front com- mands the open country, from a sort of terrace, I on the edge of which we distinguish the bases of twelve columns : the principal gate is obstructed by heaps of stones. That obstacle surmounted, { was the sultan in his country, and continued his monopoly These merchants arc chicUy French ; they have si\ housi' at Acre, with a consul. An imperiul agent is a\n> iatdy | settled there, and a resident from Um>sia. \\t\ :' '; k\ 8YRU AND EGYPT. 291 we enter an hexagonal court of one hundred and ciehty feet diameter. This court is strewed with broken colutnnSj mutilated capitals, entablatures^ and cornices. Around it we observe a row of cdificesj displaying all the ornaments of the rich- est architecture. At the end of this court, is an outlet, through wl ch we behold a more exten- sive range of magnificent ruins. To have a full prospect of these, we must ascend a slope, and we then arrive at the entrance of a large squara^ court. The eye is first attracted by tne endlir tbii court, where six majestic columns render the scene astonishingly grand and picturesque. A second range of columns to the left, appear to have been part of the peristyle of a temple. But we cannot refuse particular attention to a sort of »llery which contains various chambers; seven of which may be reckoned in each of the principal wiogo. At length we arrive at the feot of the six colunqns, and then first conceive all the bold- ness of their elevation, and the richness of their workmanship. Their shafts are twenty-five feet eight inches in circumference, and fifty-eight feet high: the total height, including the entablature, is from seventy-one to seventy-two feet. The sight of this superb ruin, thus unaccompanied, it first ytrikes us with astonishment ; but, on ex- • The walls of the Corinthian order, now pretent nothing bit p'idiinents of nichei, and tabernaclet, of which almost lU the supporters are fallen to the ground. Between these ficlifls is a range of fluted pilaiters, whose capitals support 1 brolirn entablature ; but what remains of it display's a rich frize of foliage, resting on the heads of satyrs, horses, kulls, &c. Over tJiis entablature was the ancient roof, which was fifty.ieven feet wide, and one hqndred apd ten in length. No idea can lie formed of the ornaments of this To«r, but from ihe fragncntt lying on the ground. It wosid perhaps be thought tedious to enter more minutely into Ihe description of this astonishing cditice. The lovers gf Ihe arts will find it accurately described in a work pub. lisbed in London in 1767, under the title of Ruins of BaU bee. This work, written by Mr. Wood, the world owes to Ihe attention apd liberality of Mr. Dawkins, who, in 1751, visited Balliec and Palmyra. Several changes, however, have taken place since their iournry : for example, th«y found nine large columns iUtiding; and, in 1784, I fiund but six. They reckoned tweDiy.ninc at the lesser temple, but there now remain but twenty. The others have been overthrown by the earth- qsske in 1760. Notliing can surpass the ^rorkmanship of these astonish- ing columns : though they a.-c joined without any cement, there is not room for the blade of a kn'Te between their in- terstices ; and, after so many ages, they in general siiH maintain their original whiteness. But the enormous stones which compose the sloping wall are truly astooUhiDg. To Vol. II. No. LXXXVIII. tensive examination, we discover a series of foundations of two hundred and sixty eight feet !n length, andone hunJtcd and forty-six wide. It presented to the great court a front of ten columns, with nineteen on each side. The ground on which it stood was an oblong square. The esplanade this produces, fronts the open country, towards the west by a sloping wall of about thirty feet. The descent, as you approach the city, becomes less steep. Such was the former state of this edifice; but tlie southern side of the grand temple was afterwards blocked up to build a smaller one, the peristyle aid walls of which are still remaining. This temple, situated some feet lower than the other, presents a side of thirteen columns, by eight in front, vyhich are also of the Corinthian order: their shafts are fifteen feet eight inches in circumference, and forty-four in height *. When we reflect on the extraordinary magni- ficence of the temple of Qalbec, we are astonish- ed at the silence of the Greek and Roman authors. Mr. Wood, who has minutely examined all the ancient writers, has seen no mention of it, but in a fragment of John of Antioch, who attributes the buildingof these superb works to Antoninus Pius. The inscriptions which remain seem to cor- the west, the second layer is formed of stones from twenty- eight to tliirty.five feet long, by about nine in hei«hf. There is still lying there a stone, hewn on three sidt^s, which is sixty.nine feet two Inchjs long, twelve feet ten inches broad, and thirteen feet three in thickness. By what means could the ancients move these enormouii masses ?— -Tills is doubtless a problem in mechanics curious (o resolve. The inhabitants of Balbcc, indeed, have a very commodious manner of explaining it, by supposing these edifices to have been constructed by Genii, who obeyed the orders of king Solomon ; adding, that the intention of snch immense works was to conceal, in subterraneous caverns, immense treasurer, which still remain (here. The belief in hidden treasures has been confirmed by dU. covcries which have been really made from time to time. Not more than ten years ago a small colTer was found at Hebron, containing a quantity of gold and silver medals ; with an ancient arable book on medicine. In tl^c country of the Druzcs, an individual also found, .lorno lime since, ajar full of gold coin, in the form of a crescent : but as the chiefs and governors claim allsuch discoveries, and perse, cute those who make them, those who really find any thing valuable endeavour carefully to conceal it. Perhaps they secretly melt the antique coins, and even bury them again in the same place where they found them, tjie same fears operating upon them which caused their first concealment ; and which also prove that the same tyranny formerly exist, cd iu these countries. : U i\\ Mi' ' ii'-' :!i!!; ! M :il- '- ■'M\l mU fl;« '!m% I il ' fi f< a X 4£ roborate 292 VOLNEY's TRAYELS THROUGfT roborate this opinion, and account for the con- stant use of tbe Corinthian order, as that order was not in general use till the third age of Rome, But we art' justified in mentioning as an ad- ditionul proof, the bird sculptured over the gate; for, if his crooked back, large claws, and the caduceus he bears, give him the general appear- ance of an eagle, the tufted feathers on his head demonstrate that he is not .. Roman Eugle. Let it also be observed, that the same bird' is found in the temple of Palmyra, and is there evidently an oriental eagle, consecrated to the Sun, the Divinity adored in both these temples. His wor- ship existed at Balbcc, in the most remote an- tiquity. Mr. Wood very rationally supposies, that the name of Balbec, which in the Syriac signifies City of Bal, or of the Sun, originated in this worship. \Veare ignorant of this city in re- mote antiquity: but it may reasonably be pre- sumed that its situation, on the road from Tyre to Palmyra, afforded it some part of the com- iv.crce of those opulent cities. Under the Ro- mans, in the time of Augustus, it is mentioned as a garrison town. One hundred and forty years, after, Antoninus built there the present temple, instead of the ancient one, whieh then was pro- bably falling into ruins ; but Christianity having gained the ascendancy under Constantine, the modern temple was neglected, and afterwards became a church, a wall of which at present re- mains. It continued thus till the invasion of the Arabs; when, being less frequented, it fell into ■rl'T'iy : wars succeeded, and it was converted into b f.Iace of defence; and from that time, the temple was rapidly reduced to ruin. The state of the city is equally deplorable : the iniquitous government of the emirs of the house of Ilsrfouche, had considerably impaired it, and the earthquake of 1759, coniplcted its destruc- tion. The wars of Emir Yousef, and Djezzar has occasioned it to be still more deserted and ruinous; for out of five thousand inhabitants, at which number (hey were estimated in 1751, little more than one thousand are now remaining; and all these are wretchedly poor, without industry * In this vast oxduit of country, tlu- soil ami its prodiic. li(»n»iirooxtrciiirly various ; but tin; piii'is of ll.unaii, ami thosu on the bauks of tlieOroiites,arethi; most fertile. The soil of the country of Damascus, and the Uppiir Bckaa, is eravclly and pool-. On the mountains are cultivated olivo, mulberry, and fruit (reus, aad ia suuie iilacus viucs, 8 or commerce, and cultivating nothing but maize cotton, and wafer-melons. The soil of this pari of (he country is poor, and does not improve as we proceed to the north, or to the south-cast to- wards Damascus. THE PACIIALIC OF DAMASCUS. This Pachalic comprehends nearly the whole eastern part of Syria. It extents to the north ,^U)ID Marra to Habroun in the South-east of ralestine. It is bounded to the west i)v the mountairi-s of the Ausarians, those of Anti-I^ba- non, and the upper part of the Jordan; tlica crossing that river in the country of Bisan, it in< eludes Nablons, Jerusalem, and Habroun, and enters the desert to the east *. The Pacha enjoys all the privileges of his post, which are superior to those of any other Pachalic ; he has not only the farm of all the customs and imposts, but he has an absolute authority, aiidij also conductor of the sacred caravan of Mecca under the very respectable title of Emir Ila^j. The Mahometans deem this office so importaDt, and entitled to such reverence, that the person of the Pacha who acquits himself in it with pro- priety, becomes inviolable even by the Suhan; it is no longer permitted to shed his blood. But the Divan can pursue its vengeance, without de- parting from the literal e:ltpre8si6n of the law, b; being empowered to have the offenders pounded in a mortar, or smothered in a sack, of which there have been several instances. The tribute of the Pacha to the Sultan is but forty-five purses (two thousand three hundred and forty-three pounds ; but he is charged with all the expences of the HadJ, which are estimated at three hundred and twelve thousand five hun- dred pounds : they consist of provisions of corn^ &c, and in (he hire of camels for the escort, and a great number of pilgrims. Besides this, eighteen hundred purses niust be paid to the Arab tribes, near the roadj to secure a free passage f. His military establishment consists of about eight hundred Janisaries, better provided for, + Ijosidcs his other cniuluinentij, the Pacha islirirofall (he I'il^rinis xvho die on the journey, whicli is nut the least of his perquisites; for those arc altvays found to be the richesit of tht; pilgrims. Btsidcs all (his, he may lend inuiiey, at vvhatiutureiit ho pleases, tu merchants and farmers, • . I . ' ■► « - 1 ind SYRIA AND KGYPT. 29S I nd taoii insolent than in an.y other parts of the I *ountry. These troops are not only required by ^ V of escort for the caravan, and to restrain the Arabs, but also to enable him to collect the miri from his own subjects. The Pachalic of Damascus, from its situation, I . jjpg exposed to the incursions of the Bedouin Arabs, than any other ; yet it is remarked to be lllic least ravaged of any in Syria. The reason assigned is. that instead "of frequently changing the Pachas, the Porte usually bestows this Pa- Ichalic for life : in the present century it was held I I. fifty years by a father and three brothers, Lho regularly succeeded each other. Asad, the llastoflhem, held it fifteen years, during which Itinie he performed many meritor-ons acts; and Ifstabiished such a degree of discipline among the ! Lyijiers, as to prevent the peasants from being | liojiircd by their robberies and extortions. His Ipassion, like all those in office thronghont Tur- Ikcy, wa* t® amass money, but he was regulated [by a moderation unheard of in this country ; for Ihereqnired no more interest than six per cent *. I The city of Damascus is considered as one jof the roost agreeable in Turkey ; but it is laiknowledged to be deficient in point of sa- llubrity. The inhabitants complain, and appa- Ireiitiy with t^o much reason, of the coldness and Ibardness of the waters of the Barrada ; and assert Ithat the natives are frequently afflicted with ob- Ijtructions. They ad(', that the too great use of Ifruit, particularly of Apricots, occasions there ■inany intermittent fevers and dysenteries in sum- Imer and autumn. It is also observed that a pale- Less is too prevalent in the countenances of the Jinliabitants, which rather indicates sickness, than lejhibits the genuine colour of sanity of body. I M. Nit'buhr, who has given us a plan of Da- Jmascds, says it is two hundred and fifty toises, lor somewhat less than a league and a half in cir- liuiufereoce : he adds, that he supposes it to con- llaia about eighty thousand inhabitants. The I » In Syria and Rgypt, the usual interest ig from twelro Itoliflccn ; but sometimes it is twenty or tliirry per cent, I Iiot us now attend to the most remnrkabie places ia this iPichalit . The first that presents itself is the city of Oamas. |(us, the capital and n;si5 -=:.-X nierly existed: but it is now ruined. To the right and left of this vale, several high square towers appeared, which on a nearer approach, were dis- covered to be sepulchres of tlie ancient Palroy- ,j[,es. They had no sooner passed these vene- irible monuments, than the hills opening, exhibit- ed to them, all at once, the greatest quantity of ruins they had ever seen*; and, behind them, towards the Euphrates, a flat waste as far as the I JVC could reach, without any object which shew- ed cillier life or motion. It is hardly possible to , iniiginc any thing more striking than this view. jgiiclia rouititude of Corinthian pillars, with so lie wall or solid building, afforded a must ro- 1 inaiitic variety of prospect f. But the reader is referred to the plates of I THr, Wood, for a particular explanation of these j various edifices, and to bo convinced of the de- gree of perfection, to which the arts had arrived in those remote ages. Architecture more espe- cially, Ltvished her ornaments, and displayed UerniagniRcence in the temple of the sun, the tutelary deity of Palmyra. The i^quare court, which enclosed it, was 'six hunrlrcd and seventy nine feet each way, and a double range of columns was continued all round the inside. In the middle of the vacant space, the temple pre. * Though these travellers had visited Greece and Italy. ■i The reader must represent to liimsulfthat range of erect I coliiniiis, as occupying an extent of more than twenty-six hiimircil yards, and concealing a mtiltitiidc of other cilifices b.'hliKl tiicm. In this space, sometimes a palace is found, of which nothing remains bnt the courts and unlls, some, timcii a temple, whose peristyle is half throv. ' down; and noiv, a portico, a gallery, or triumphal arch, iierc stand Uroupes of columns, whose symmetry is destroyed by the fjllurmany of thuin. If from this striking scene, we cast our eyes upon the ground, another, almost as varied, pre. ji'Dls itself. On all sides wc see nothing but subverted shafts, some whole, others shattered ty pieces, ordislocated in their joints. And, on which side soever wc look, the earth is strewed with large stones, half buried, with broken ciilablHturos, damaged capitals, mutilated frizes, dislignred nlii'fs, uil'aced sculptures, violated tombs, and altars defiled b/ (Inst. * Amid these hallowed ruins of the magnificence of a puiisheil pco|)le, arc ahout thirty mud. walled luits, afford. iiig a iniiicrahle shelter to that number of peasants families, nho exhibit every external sign of the most abject poverty. So extrenifly wretched areihe present inhabitants of a place, once so renowned and populous. The.SR Arabs only cuU liratc a few olive-trees, ;;Md barely as much corn as- is- re. qiiiictl for their subsistence. All ihi-ir riches consist in a few go.ils and sheep whicii they feed in the Desert. Inca- |abl(' uf defending ihcmsilvos from violence, they become Vol. U. No. LXXXVIH. V ,rt5t ■■f.V sents another front of forty-seven feet, by one hundred and twenty-four in depth; around it runs a peristyle of one hundred and forty colunint^; and, what is very remarkable, the gate faces the setting, and not the rising sun ];. Palmyra was at all times a natural emporiunr for the merchandize coming from India by the Persian Giilph, which, from thence by way of the Euphrates, was conveyed into Phoenicia, and AsiaMinor.todilliise its varied luxuriesamongnu- merons nations. Such commerce must necessarily, in the most early ages, have caused this spot to be inhabited, and rendered a place of importance, though at first of no great celebrity. Two springs of fresh water it possesses, were a power- ful inducement in a parched .ind barren desert§. These were doubtless the principal (uotives which drew the attention of Solomon, and induced that prince to carry his arms to a place so remote from the actual limits of Judea — " He 'built strong walls there," says Josephus ||, " to secure himself in the possession, and named it Tadmour, which signifies the place of Palm-trees**. Leaving these venerable ruins, and returning to the inhabited world, we first meet with Horns, the Emesus of the Greeks, situated on the bank of the Orontes : this place, though formerly a tributary to the Bedouins, who alternately harass iind pro- tect them. The complexion of these Arabs is very swarthy, from the excessive heat, but the women have beautiful features They arc veiled, but they are not so unwilling to show their faces as the eastern women generally are : they dye (he end of their fingers red, their lips blue, and their eye-brows and eyelashes black. They also wear very large gold or brass rings in their cars and noses. § These waters are > a " and sulphureous, but the inhn- bitants, who have none jut what is brackish, except these springs, find them very good, and they arc al'tfeBst wholesome. II An/iq. J ml. lib. 8, c. C, *♦ IFtncc it has been inferred, that Solomon was its first founder ; but it seems probable that it was then a place of known importance. The palm.trccs he found there, are not the trees of H nil- !iabifedeounfries. Prior to the days of Moses, the Journies of Abraham and Jacob, from Mesopotami^t into Syria, prove a communication between those countries, which must soon h.ire made Palmyra. The cinnamon and pearls mentioned as found there in the time of the Hebrew legislator .""moustrato a trade with India and the Persian gulph, Vhich must have been carried on by the Euphrates and Palmyra.- The king of Jerusalem would not have car- ried his attention to so distant and detached a spot, \wlhout some powerful motive of interest; and this intci est could be no other than that of an extensive commerce, ot' which ■ this place was the emporium. 7 . V ,ii ■i' m ■ ' 1 i J -11 ' i ijl k 'C/:"| m ^^^1^ n let VOLNEY's THWKI.S THROUGH siroiig and populous tity, is now but a laij;«! ruinous (own, containing about two tlioiiiiund inhabitants, partly Greeks, and partly Malionict- ans. An Aga reiiidcg here, as a sub-rcntcr of { Farmia now Iir4rdly aflbrd a few bufl'alnes and shce)). 1. the veteran soldiers of Alex. ander, who have reposed after tiicir victories, have succeeded miserable prasants, who perpetually dread the oppressions of the Turks and the inroads of the Arabs. Every town, every village is built of materials furnished by ruins, and founded on the rubbish of ancient edifices. The Pilgrims of Mecca assure us they find, at every step, the vestiges of an- cient habitations. + From the reverence generally expressed and shewn to that celebrated city, it might long be imagined that there could not be a more devout ]icoplc than its inhabitants ; but they have since acqnired and well deserved the reputation O Two days journey to the south of Nablum we arrive at a town^ which, like many olliers a|! ready mentioned, presents a striking I'xampleVf the vicissitude of human afl'airs. \Vhcii nebp hold its walls levelled, its ditches filled ui), .J all its buildings in ruins, wc can scarctly belipu I that we view the celebrated metropolis, viliid, once withstood the efforts of the most powcriii empires: and, for a time, resisted I he arms j Rome herself. In one word, wc with difiiculiv I recognize /tr«AY//tjn. The renown of its mira cles perpetuated in the east, invites mam I inhabitants within its walls. Mahometans, Ciiris'. tians, Jews, without distinction of sects, all male I it a point to see what they denominate the no/)/,; and hohj cUy f. Vata is the port where the pilgrims dismibark They arrive in November, and repair to Jcrnsa lem, where they remain till after the fesli\al ofl Easter. They are lodged promiscuously iu iiiJ cells of the convents of their respective commu- nions; for which indulgence no gratuity is de- 1 manded : but it would neither be civil nor fafe to depart without making an offering far beyond the usual price of apartments. Besides, there are also masses, services, exorcisms, &c. to bel paid for: the pilgrim must also purchase beads,! Agnus Dci's, &c. On Palm-Sunday they purify themselves i.i the Jordan, an expedition which claims a contribution. One year with another^ il | produces to the governor four thousand 8i.\ hun- dred and eighty-seven pounds. Particular relations must be consulted to rornl an ideaof the tumultuous march of this fiinaticl multitude into the plain of Jericho ; the iiidecentl of the vilest people in Syria, w ithout cxceptinT even lho«| of Damascus. Their uumbt • is estimated at t^ i rtctn ilion.f sand. Jerusalem has had governors of its own, with thrllilel of Pachas ; but it is now a dependency of Damascus, froml which it receives a deputy CJoifcrnor. The Moisalluin, or governor, collects duties on the h.I portation of singular commodities from Jerusalem, sudi aJ beads, relies, sanctuaries, crosses, p-issions, scapulaiics,if,[ of which about three iiundred diets arc sent olf nmiiiall., Thissort of commerce is the more .• dvantageous to tlicmani:. facturers, as flieir goods cost them . ittle besides their labour;! and the more lucrative for the stllurs, as the price is cn.| hanced by superstition. These commodities eAjiorti'd lol Turkey, Italy, Portugal, and especially to Spain, prodnca a return of considerable sums, in t4ie form of alms, or ii payments. To this the convents join another importanj article of traffic, the Visits of the Pilgrims.— At al( times the devout curiosity of visiting the Iwljj places, h\ occasioned Christians of every country to resort to jcn^ salcm, zealJ S\1UA AND KG VIM'. 297 I 1 with which men, women, and children fhrow themselves naked into the river Jordan; their return and visitation of the holy pliices . 1 (],g ceremony o( the ncxofirc, whicli (It.scciuls ^L,a hcdViii OH llic liclj/ Snlttrdmj, Inoiiglii hif • ^„^t/. The Orientals still believe in this iiiraclc, though the Franks acknowledge that Ilic priests retire into the Sacristy, to pcrlbrni ,vliat is done by very natural means *. Leaving Jernsalcm, we only find three places J ji, tiijs part of the Pachalic w hich merit parti- cular attention. Th^ fiist is Jiaha. thft ancient Jericlio, six leagues to the north-east of Jerusa- lem, Here was formerly cultivated the balm of lAlecca. From the description of the Iladjes, Ijiii, isa shrub similar to the pomegranate-tree, I villi leaves resembling those of rue: it has a pulpy nui, the kernel of which yields the resinous I juice, called bnlin, or balsam. There is not a I plant of it now remaining at Raha; but another hpcfics is to be found there, called Zakkoun, hvliich also produces a sweet oil, celebrated for j healing wounds. This Zakkoun resembles a Inlum-trce, and has thorns four inches long, with I leaves like those of the olive-tree ; its fruit is a I kind of acorn ; under the rind of which is a pulp, land dicn a nut, the kernel of which atl'ords an oil Iflliich the Arabs sell very dear : this is the sole [conimerce of Raha, now a small village in a I ruinous state f. Thf last place demanding attention is IlaWovi, or Hebron, seven leagues to the south of Beth- lehem. It is situated at tlie foot of an eminence, on which appear some wretched ruins, the mis- shapen remains of an ancient castle. The adja- cent country is not disagreeably varied by rocky hillocks, groves of fir-trees, a few stunted oaks, and plantations of vines and olive-trees. These vineyards are not cultivated for the purpose of making wine, the inhabitants being such zealous Mahometans as not to sutler any Christians to live among them: the produce is intended to be used merely as dried raisins. The peasants cultivate cotton, which is spun by their women, and sold at Jerusalem and Gaza. They also have some soap manufactories, and a very ancient glass-house, the only one in Syria. They also make a quantity of coloured rings, bracelets for the wrists, legs, arms, and elbows, and many other trinkets, which are sent to Con- stantinople. From these manufactures, Ilabrouu is become a place of some eminence, and is capa- ble of arming eight or nine hundred men. Pro- ceeding from Hebron towards the west, we ar- rive at some eminences, which, on this side, form the last branch of the mountains of Judea. There the traveller, wearied with the irregular country he has quitted, beholds the vast plains which extend beneath his feet, to the sea that lies before him. This is the plain which, under the name of Palestine, terminates, on this side, the country of Syria, and forms the last division. SECTION VI. - . . mPaUatine — Of the Government of the Turks in Sjjvia, wilh Remarks on the Injlucnce of Religion. I^'PHIS district, in its present state, compre- the east, a line drawn to the south, by Ka- Younes, and another to the north, between Kaii saria, and the rivulet of Yafe. This whole tract 'pms district, in its present state, compre- 1 lieuds the whole country between the Medi- hcrrancan to the west, the chain of mountains to » Master being over, every one rct\iriis to his (^jrncotin. jtrv, vain of being able to rival the Mahometan iftthc title lofiiiigrini. Many of them, in order to tlistiuguish thcm- liflrcs as such, imprint on their hands, wrists, or arms, ICijiires of the cross, or spear, with the cyplier of .Tusus and JMary. This painful, aid sometimes dangerous operation lii performed with needles, and the perforations filled with Igun. powder, or powder of antimony, and is not to be cf- Ifaced. But all this appearance of devotion does not exempt Ithesc pilgrims from the proverbial censure thrown upon the liyjis; since the Christian* buy, " Hcwarc oC the pilgrims lofJcrusalcm." + The next pl.ncc entitled to notice is Bail.el.lohm, or Uothlehem, so celebrated in the history of Christianity. This village is seated on an eminence, two leagues south-east of Jerusalem, in a very fertile soil. Fruits, vines, olives, and scsamum succeed here extremely well ; but cultivation is very much wanting. They reckon about six hnndrcd men in this village, capable of bearing arras when required. A sort of white wine is made here, which justifies the former celebrity of the wines of Judea, but it has a very great ten- dency to promote intoxication. ' ' : ■ ' 'A ■W IM I • P ^'! .'I : Miii^ ! ! i I'l'l ! ' il li •• 1 4 tli UDS VOLNRY's TRAVrrs TIlROUCIf in nearly a level plain, witliont either river or rivulet in siinimer, tliougli \vuterc;rcat caravan in 1757 f. The desert of Tih, is that into which Moges conducted the Jews, and kept them a long- time to iiMliiite them in the art of war, and transform shepherds into conquerors. This desert, which purlanco Three leagues from Ezdoud is Majdal, j is the boundary of Syria to the south, extends it- lelebnitcd for spinning the (inest cottons in Pa- | self in the form of a peninsula between the two gnlphs of the Red Sea. Its breadth is generally about thirty leagues, and its length seventy. This great space, principally consists of barren muimtuins, which join those of Syria, on the north, and, like them also, consist wholly of calcareous stone; but, as wc proceed to the southward, they become granitous, and Sinai and Horcb are enormous masses of that stone. On this account the ancients gave this country the UAme o( Arabia Pctren. The soil, in general, is a dry gravel, producing thorny accacias, tamar- isks, firs, and some scattered shrubs. In some of the vallics however, it is better, as the earth becomes cuilivable after the winter rains, and may almost be deemed fertile. Such is the vale of Djiraddel, in which there arc even some groves of trees. Formerly every advantage was uiade of this country that coulil bo obtained from it, but it is now abandoned, and produces notliing but wild herbs. But, with such scanty pro- vision, this desert maintains three tribes of Be- douins, consisting of about six thousand Arabs, dispersed in various parts. They are called tlie Arabs of Tor, the most frequented place in tUa country. It has a pretty good road for shipping, Ik'coiv.is siiililcnly iiniiiliuhii&bic; wc still continue, for a (lily's jouriioy, iilotis thu sei. coast, Id bcliold cliltivatoil spots and Tillages : Such as Kaii.yuuncs, a kiiul of castle, in w' cli the Mamcliikcs kofip a Rarrisoii of twelve men. Such also is JU-Aiish, the last place where water ran be had fit to be dniiik, till yoii arrive at Salacliia, in .f''t;ypt. Ilc- tiiriiin;; to (he desert by the east, we meet with strips of cultivable land, as fii- as the road lo Mecca. They culti. vate palm-trees and doiira, under thir i)rotcctiaii, or rather exposed to the rai)ine, of the Arabs. These peasaots, who u>»y be considered as half savages, are more ignorant and wretched than the iiedouins themselves. Incapable of leaving the soil they cultivate, they are perpetually in dread of losing the fruit of their labours. When they have g.i. thered in tlieir harvest, they hasten to conceal it in private places, aud retire amuug (ho rocks bordering on the Dead Sea. ■■ J. i . 4 G ■'! 16 i.'.lt, is Icsiine; which, however, are extremely coarse. On the right is Axkalan, whose deserted ruins daily recede farther from the sea, by which it ,vaj formerly washed, (iazii is coiTiposetl of three villages, one of „liuh called the Caslle, is situated between the I ttvo others, on a moderate eminence. This castle, tfliicli might have been thought strong at the I time it was erected, is now a heap of rubbish. Ilie Serai of the Aga, which constitutes a part I of it, is in a ruinous state ; but it communils a most extensive prospect. The heats, the drought, I (lie winds, and the dews, are the same as on the banks of the Nile; and the inhabitants have the complexion, figure, and manners of the I'^gyp- lians, rather than those of the Syrians *. An advantageous branch of commerce is fur- I nisliod to the people of Gaza, by the carataiis a8^illgand repassing between Egypt and Syria. [TIic provisions they are required to take for their Jl'oiir da\s journey in the Desert produce a great Idfrnand for tlieir flour, oils, dates, and other necessaries. They also fit out, annually, a great jdiravaii, which goes to meet the pilgrims of Mvx- Ica, and conveys to Ihem the convoy of Palestine, * The situation ef (iazalias, at all limes, rendered it a |Mivii of ini|)ortance. The ruins of white marble, found in iis environs, prove it to have formerly been the abode of [luxury and opulence ; nor was it unworthy of this prcfer- rnc>\ The soil of the surrounding country is remarkably \yiU', and the gardens, watered by limpid streams, still |irudiiii! pomegranates, oranges, dates, &c. in great i)er. Ifcitior'. It has, however, partook of (he general dcstruc. |iii:i, and Ihougli it enjoys the proud title of the capital of .'line, it is now mertjiy a defenceless village, hardly con- I Hilling- t\'t-o thousand inliabilants. The manufacture of cot. Iimis i.s their principal support ; and, as they have the ex. IdiiMvu supply of the peasants and Uedouins of the neigh. Iliuurhuod, they employ about live hundred looms: they [uvoalso two or three soap maiiufactoricf. f lieyond (iaza there are but two deserts, but it roust Idci Ihcielorc bu taken for granted tbftt tliu couotry thence Vol. II. No. LXXXIX. : . 'I t. ^^mm.l\\ t.' V'i- - m^ '\ St i: m 300 VOLNEY's TRAVFLS THROUGH •MM Biul water which may he drunk : (he Arabs also bring iome hitlier from Siiini, which is rfnUy jrood. Nolhing further cim be noticed hercj ex- cept that we liero and there find a few palm- trees, the rniiis of a wretched fort without a gar- rison, a sn^'ill Greek convent, and some h«i(s of poor Arabs. Respecting: tl>e subsistence of the three tribes, it is derived from their goats, camels, acacia gums sold in EgyMt, and their robberies on the roads of Suez, Gaza, and Mecca. These Arabs have not m!>ny niares, like the other tribts ; they rrnr but very few ; but they supply the want of them by a sort of camel, called Hedjiiia, which nearly resembles the common camel, but is sl-ndercr, and moves more expeditiously. This mimal can continue his pace thirty or forty hours successively, almost ■withonl rest, ai;d without eating or drinking ; he is preferred by couriers, and for long ji urnies when expedition is required : but the rider must be accustomed to his pace, or his jolting motion ■will soon gall and disable bin:, in spite of the cushions with which they stuff the saddle *. But the most considerable protita of ine Be- douins of Tor arise from the pilgrimage of the Greeks to the convent of Mount Sinai. The schismatics have so much faith in the relics of Saint Catherine, which arc deposited there, that they doubt of their salvation if they have not visited them at least once in their lives. The rendezvous is at C>>\ro, where the Monks of Mount Sinai have correspondent' who treat with the Arabs for a convoy. On their arrival at the convert, the Greeks perform their devotions, visit the church, kiss the relics and images, mouxt on their knees upwards of a hundred steps of the hill of Moses, and conclude by making an offering. The Pacha, as being the ima^e of t'lie Sultan, IP the head of the police of his govermunt; under -'hich title must be comprehende'J criminal justice. He has the absolute power of life and ♦ Except at the time that those visit. tions are mado, which is only once a year, this coiiTcnt is a very desert and lavage abode, and the surrounding country Is only a pile of rugged and naked rock. Mount Sinai, at the Toot of Mhi< h it is seated, is a peak of granite, which sceuis to ovcrwKcIn) it. The house has the resemblance of a prison, 'whose lofty walla have only one window, which, though Tcry high up, aiiswcrf. the purpose of a door; to enter which you wust get into a basket, which the Monk'i have iu«j)cndcd at the window, aud occasiuually liuist up with death : a power which he exercises without formality or appeal. When he mce.s with an offence, he orders the criminal tv^ be seized, imj the executioner, who accompanies him, straiHet him, or takes off his head upon the spot; udj sometime-, indeed, he condescends to perform this oiKce himself. The Pacha often wuiligaboyj in disguise, i^nd woe to that man whom he det/'ctj in the commisiion of a crime, or an error !-~Hui as he cannot be every where, he has a depuiv called the Wuli, who patrolcs night and da\ keeps a watchful eye on the seditious, appic- bends robbers; and, like the Pacha, tries and condemns without appeal. Ths criminii! ,m»- scnts his neck ; the executioner striken ; tl-^ iieid falls, and the body is taken sway in a leatlirrn sack. This ofiicer has a multitude of spies, v.liu are generally the associates of thieves, and, from (heir information, is made acquainted with every I thing that passes. We cannot therefore be sur- prised that cities like Cairo, Aleppo, and Da* mascus, should be safer than Genua, Koine, and i Naplc; : but how deafly is this safety purchased! and how many innocent persons are sacrificed to I the p.rtiality and injustice of the Wali ! In the markets the Wali inspects the weigliti I and measures, in Uhicb he exercises the utuiust severity. For the smallest deficiency in i|ie weight of bread, meat, or confectionary, he lit- diets five hundred strokes of the bastinado, aiid sometimes even death. But though examples of this kind are common in great cities, there is no country where false weights are so frequently used. The dealer,- however, is generally upou liis guard : he usually keeps a sharp look-out tot the passing of the Wali, or inspector of tlie market ; and, as soon as they appear on horse- back, the deficient weights are laid aside, audi others produced. The dealers also make an agreement with the servants who precede these two oiKcers ; and for a certain sum they caa in- sure impunity f . All I ropes. This plar is adoptuil from the apprehension! o( I danger from the Arabs. . [ + TheolTioe of Wuli docs not extend to those varloiisnl). jects of utility, whi;:h arc under the regulation of our po. lice. No attention is paid to thecloanlinms or thcsaliibriiyl of the cities. They are not watered, swept, or pavcii,! either in Syria, or in Kgypt. The streets arc narron,! winding, and inrommodious ; and travellers arc (lisgu>iel| at the si:;ht of a multitude of hideous dogs, which hiivc Hi any owner. They form a sort of indepcndcut bodj, sul.l 55YRIA AND KGYPT. .'JOl All the magistrates of the empire called Cadis, or ;ail""es, depend on the principal chief, who sides at Constantinople. The tille of his dig-- nity \i C(i(U-d ask, or Judg^e of the Army. This GraiiJ Ciidis names the judges of the capital cities, such as Aleppo, Damascus, Jerusalem, ^i-. These name other judj^es, in the places wilhin their jurisdiction. Money is, however, (he principal qualification. All these employ- ments, like those of the government, are sold to (lit, best bidder, and farmed from year to year. Xlie tribunal whence these Cadis issue their de* cisioiis, is called Makkama, or place of judge- ment. Sometimes it is at their own hous; s, but r,:ver at a place suitable to the dignity of a court of justice. In a paltry mean aparlmcnt, the i;idi is seated or. a mat, or a sort of cat pet, with bii clerks and domestics on each side of him : the door of the apartment is left open ; the parties appear, and, without advocates or attornies, each pleads his own cause. Squatted «>n the mund, they state the facts, dispute, and contest the particulars, and debate upon the merits or demerits of the cause before 'hem. Should the debates between the parties become too violent, the cries of the cK rks, and the stafl'uf the Cadi, soon restore order anJ propriety. Gravely smok- ing his pipe, and fingering his beard, tie judge hearkens, interrogates, and concludes by pro- uouncing a sentence, without appeal. The par- ties are sddom very well satisfied; but they retire with great respect, paying a fee estimated at one tenth of the litigated property, without murmur- ing at the judgment, as it is infallibly dictated b^ the infallible koran *. Such is the state of jurisprudence among the Turks; and they have no public code existing, wlie:'e individuals may instruct themselves in their Respective rights. The judgments given are s'sling on public alms. The 'J'urkti, who arc so roady to 's'lid (he blood of man, are not so forward in killing thei-e iop, though Ihcy avoid toucluDg thcni ns nnclcan : they ercn declare that they ensure Ihc safety of the citizens by nighi; but for this tj^ey are more indciitcd to the \Va:i, and the gates with which crery strc'et is secured. It is also «aid, that the dogs derour the carrion ; but in this they arc as- tiltcd by " multitude of Jackalls, Vhich are numerous in the gardens, and concealed among the ruins and tombs. * It must be confessed that this simplicity of justice docs not consume the property of the parties in preliminary nr stibsoqutnt cxpeucrs, but too many abuses arc the (ooscqueuccB of this summary dccisiou. Suiue writers who chiefly founded on unwritten customs, or on the unfrequently contradictory decisions of the doc- tors. The Roman law, in many particulars, has served as a basis for the determinations of the Mahometan Doctors, but the great and inex-' haustible source to which they recur, is the luost pure book, the depositary of all knowledge, the code of all legislation, the Koran of the Frophct. Whoever reads the koran, cannot but confess, that it conveys no notion of the relative duties of mankind in society, the formation of the body politic, or the principles of the art of governing. The only laws we find there, consist of four or five ordinances relative to polygamy, divorces, slavery, and the succession of near relations. The rest is merely a chaos of unmeaning phrases, and cmphatical declamation on the attributes of God, from which no valuable information can be ob- tained; a collection of puerile tales, and ridicu- lous fables; and on the whole so flat and unin- teresting a composition, that no man can read it to the end, notwithstanding the elegance of M. Savary's translation. But should any semblance of meaning be visible, through the absurdities of this deliiious effusion, it is the inculcation of the most obstinate fanaticism. We are wearied with the repetition of the words impious, incredulous enemies of God and the Pruphcl\: devotion toKarcli God and the Pro- phet. Heaven is open to whomsoever combats ia their cause ; llouris stretch out tiieir arms to martyrs; the imagination takes toe and the pro- selyte exclaims, " Oh ! Mahomat ; thou art the messenger of God ; thy word is his ; he is infal- lible ; thou canst neither err nor deceive me : go an, I follow thee." There is no uncertainty in this book ; it guides without error, those who believe without doubting, who believe iu what they do not sec." censure the proceedings of our legal decisions, liaTc com> mended the administraiion of justice amonjr the Turks; but dailj experience .sufficiently proTes, that there is no country wherein justice is more corrupted than in Egypt, Syria, and the r«'st of the Turkish empire. Venality is no where morg flagrant and hare>faced. The parties may bargain for their cause with the Cadi, as they would for any common article of food or raiment. Corruption is habitual and general; and how can it be expected to bj otherwise, wlii're inKgriiy may be destructive, and in- JM-stice Ivicralive ; where each Cadi, deciding without appeal, ftars no rcwsiou of his scutuuce, tior punishment for hia partiality. * ' •-' What i02 VOLNEY's TRAVFXS THROUGH What is (he tendency of this, but to establish the most absolute despotism in hiiu who com- inundsj and the blindest devotion to him who obeys? A.nd such was the intention of Mahomet. He did not mean to enlighten men, but to rule over them. It was to lead them more easily that lie ascribed all to God. By subniit(ing ito ac- knowledge himself his minister, he removed every suspicion of personal interest. " There is only one V )'/' says the Koran, " and Mahomet is his propiiet. Pray five times a-day, turning towards Mecca. Eat not in the day time during the whole month of the Rnmasan. Make the pilgrimage of the Caaba, and give alms to (he widow and orphan." Here is (ho source from Avhence must spring all the sciences, nnd every branch of political and moral knowledge*. The people of Syria are, in general Mahome- tans or Christians ; and this difterencc of opinion is productive of the most disagreeable etlects. Treating each other as infidels and impious, they are actuated by a reciprocal aversion, which keeps alive a sort of perpetual war. And the government, instead of interposing as njediator in these dissensions, fermcn(s them by its par- tiali(y. Faithful to the spirit of the Koran, it treats (he Christians with the most persecuting severity f. These distinctions create much hatred and di- risionSj and manifest themselves in every inter- course of life. The Mahometans talk perpetually of their religion, nnd consider themselves as the only faiihf 111 to God. The Christians, in their turn, affect great devotion ; and hence that ostentation of piety which forms one of the prin- cipal characteristics of the orientals. Commerce, iaSvria, is still in that state ofin- * The It'gisla tors of antii'|iiily liavcin vain pxhaiistitl their ceiiius tu explain tin; rclatiuiis of uiaiikirul in sucioly, and to (xiiiU out the several dulics of every clais. Alahinnet, more, able and prcjfoiiiid, resolves tlic whole into five phrases*, and ye( il may safely be asserted, fliat of all the men who have prc.iiiined to give lk«s to nations, none was iiiort; ignorant (iiiin ^laliomet : of all the ahsnrd composi. tions that have ever been exhibited, not one can be more truly wretched tlian (liis l)ook. Of (his, the transactions of the last twelve Inindred years in A^a are a proof; for the iijitorance of the people, in that qu.irterof theglobe, urigi. nate in (lie Koran and its uiorulity. + All pnblic worship is prohibited to Christians, except in the Kesraunan, where govcrnnjint has not been able to prevent it. They arc not periiiiited to build any new churdu^i and whuu iLc old onus are iii a ruinous state, fancy which characterizes barbarous a£,e3, an! uncivilised countries. Along the whole coast there is not a harbour capable of admittinf^^y. sel of four hundred tons. In the interior parts cf the country, there ard neither roads nor c^naU. nor even bridges over the greater part of th rivers and torrents. Between town and town there arc neither posts nor public convcyjinJ The Tarlar Courier, who comes from Constant tinopic to Damascus, by way of Aleppo, Is (i,,, ()nly convenience of this kind. He leads with him a scconr' horse in hand, and has frequcntlya companion for fear of accidents. The communication between one (own and another is kept up by carriers, but thev have no tixed time of departure. No persons (ravel alone, from the insecurity of the roads. It j, usual to wait for several passengers who wish (o go to the same place. It appears remarkable that not a waggon or a cart is to be seen in ail Syria' Perhaps (heir absence may be a((ribu(ed (o (hj apprehensions of their being seized by thominjonj of government, and thereby sustaining a very considerable loss at one stroke. Every (hinp {% conveyed on (he backs of asses, mules, or caiiiels, all which animals are found here in great per- l'cc(ion: the two former are very capable of employment on the mountains, and of climbing and sliding over (he slopes of (he craggy rucks. 'J'he camel is more used in the plains, because he consumes les.s, and carries more : his usual load is about seven hundred and fifty pounds: his food is wha(ever you choose to give him: as straw, beans, barley, bramble.^, poniidfd dates, «&c. ^Vilh a pound of food a-day, and as much water, he will travel for weeks together, in going from Cairo to Suez, which is a journcv tliey are not snfTered (u repair them wiltiout paying a viry heavy (ine. A Christian cannot strike a Mahotneiaii -mu. out the risk of losing his life ; but if a Mahonietiui shoulil kill a Christian, he ran cicapc punishment for a stiptilattii price. A Christian niuit not appear on iiorsebiirk in ilic town, and thc) are forbid the use of the yellow sli|i|)iTs, while shawls, and every kind of a;reen colour. Keillor the feet, and bine for thc dresi are the colours u suit. of SYRIA AND EGYPT. 303 Lf about foVty-six hours, iiiciudin;; the time al- lloffcd for resting, they neither eat nor drink ; but I these fast' "g*' °^**" repeated, exhaust the strength Lftlie animaU. It is useless to endeavour to Iforce them beyond their usual pace ; but by al- Lwing them their proper rest, they will travel Iftoro fifteen to eighteen hours a day *. Coin is of so fixed a value, that you may Itravel over the whole empire without expe- Iriencing any change in its denomination or its haliie. The most sinople of these coins is the \p(ira, called also J\/1cdin, a Fadda, a Kuta, or [flj/(fn«. It resembles in size an English silver Ithree-pence, and is worth about five liards, (a jjttle more than a halfpenny). After the para, b(rc are a succession of pieces of five, ten, and irentv paras. All these coins are ?i!ver, but jfith such a mixture of copper alloy, that the LjoK-W/'i is ** large asi a crown of six livres, riiough its value be only foor livres five sols, {(hreeand six-pence halfpenny, ) They have no nage, because of the prohibition of the pro- Lhet: but or.ly the cypher of the Sultan on one (ide, and on the other these words : Sultan of the IffoContiniints. The gold coins are the sequin; tiled Dahrp, or piece of gold ; and also Zahr- Hahnboub, ir well-beloved flower. It is worth hree piastres, or forty paras. There is likewise sequin, called Fondoucli, worth one hundred nd seventy paraii. Besides these Turkish coins, omeof the European specie has as much cur- tncy; such ar^ the silver dollars of Germany. Lnd the gold R^quins of Venice. The Venetian rquins are esteemed for the fineness of their Itandard, and from their being used in making unmens' trinket*: the piece of gold is simply Lcrced, for the convenience sf suspending it by chain, also of gold, which (lows upt/u the freast. The more sequins there are attached to |bechain, and the greater number of these chains, k more does the woman conceive herself orna- ueiitud. This mode of embellishment creates Duch emulation among the ladies. Even the female peasants, in imitation of their superiors, pr piastres or smaller pieces ; but Ihc women ♦ There nro no public inns, but the cities, towns, and \ the villages, liavu a (urge lluilding callud a A'a;>, or ,.';«n./c;«i, for the use of travellers. These places of .'roption aie built a little way out of tlm towns, uud cons'st (ftJiir Hiii;;s rmind a square eoiirt, in which thvt beasts df irikn are inclusfil. 'J'ho lodgings are cells, where no- in,' is I'omul but liar'} walls, dust, and perhaps scorpions, Vu. 11. iNo. LXXXIX. of a certain rank disdain silver, and m\\ accept of nothing but sequins of Venice, or large Spanish pieces and crusadoes. The fractice of weighing money is generalin Syria, Tjgypt, and all Turkey. No piece, however deiaccd, is re- fused there; the merchant draws ou'. bis scalcar and weighs it. The religion of Mahomet having proscribed every sort of image and figure, there . exists neither painting, nor sculpture, nor engraving: nor any of those nimieroiis professious which depend on them. The christians, indeed, pur- chase, for the Use of their churches, some pic- tures of the Greeks at Cotistantiiiople, who, in point of taste, are teal Turks. Ill the second place, many of our trades are rendeied unne- cessary, from the small quantity of furnitur«i required by the Orientals. The whole inventory of a wealthy family consists in a carpet for thn feet, in mats, cushions, mattresses, smalt cotton cloths, copper and woodert platters for the table, some stewing-pans, a mortar, a portable mill, some porcelain, and some plates of copper tinned : all our cabinet and upholstery work are luxuries totally unknown to them ; nothing can therefore be so simple as a Turkish removal. Pocock is of opinion that these customs origi- nated in the wandering life formerly led by the ancestors of these nations. Their clothing is as little complicated, though much more expensive. They are unaccustomed to the hats, perukes, hair-dressing, buttons, buckles, stocks, and all tha 'x'rihiity with which we are surrounded. Cottuii r vilk shirts, which have neifhi : ruffles nor wri»(baii(is, ■ )r plaited collars ; n i enormon* pair of brcec'.ic-*. servinc; also by way of stock- ings ; a tiundkerc! 'd ior (h< head ; another round the waist, with three large folds of clotli and calico, compose the whole wiirf' obe of the orientals. The only articl; of luxury arc gold- smith's work, which is itnifcd to women's trinkets, saucers for coii'tc, the ornaments of their harness, their pipes, and the silk stuti's of Aleppo and Damascus f . Cairo is perhaps the only p!r'ro iu Egypt or ia Syria The keeper of the Kan ruriiiNlics the ,'rareHcr with a kpy and a mat , and he pr(>vi(Us himself the rest. It ia tlicrc. fore necessary that ho .shuiitd take with liiitia bed, his kiU chen utensils, aiidevcK hi? provisions, for \^ fn^queiitly ba^). pens that no bread is to be found in the vilLi^i^s. + ln passins^ through the streets of tin: towns, voii sec .nothing but a uutubui' of beatiMs of cotton on tinters, re. 4 H tailcn 1' 1 !r'-^"'i iU^ Mm \ ' . r t:i ■ .\ ; -if i <' ■ ' ^1 im 30* VOI.NKY's TRAVELS THItOUOH Syria, where t!»ere are a lew Shaiks who undur- •tandtbe priociples of music : ilicyhavecolleclions ofairsj wiitteu in characters^ of which the names are all Persiao. They have no music hut vocal ; for (hey neither know nor esteem instrumental ; and they certainly deserve commendation for it; for such instruments as they have, arc detestable. They arc strangers to any other accompaniment than the unison, and the continued base of the Monocbord. Their performance is accompanied >Yith sighs and gestures, which represent the passions in ,.-« more liiely strain than we should venture to allow. They have the greatest "merit in the melancholy strain. Dancing, which amons; us is held in equal rank with music, is noi equally esteemed by the Arabs; a man cannot practice it without dis- lionour ; and the exercise of it is only permitted to women. This judgment may appear severe, but before we condemn it, let it be considered, that in the easiern world, dancing is not an imitation of war, as among the Greeks, nor a combination of graceful attitudes and movements^ as with us ; but a licentious imitatiou of the wantonness of love. • This is the species of dance, brought from Carthage to Rome, and which, since revived in Spain by the Arabs, still subsists there under the title of the Fandango. It would be difficult, without wounding the par, accurately to describe it: it will be suilicicnt to say, that a fen-] qniries of the men respecting the women of iheifl family. They are astonished that our women ml with their faces uncovered, when, in their counJ try, an uplifted veil, is the demonstration of a| prostitute, or is a signal for a love-adventurel They have no idea that it is possible to talk witlj them, and touch them without emotion, or to) be alone with them without proceedinj; In tha last extremities. This conduct will sutilcienllfi shew what opinion they entertain of their femaleiJ hence v/t may instantly conclude that thevara absolutely ignorant of love, in our sense ofm present. Scarcely can we find one of the latter whoknoMJ liow to bleed \vith a (loam. How, indeed shoiil'I phxi.] cilins be so foriiied, as there arc no cstablishmeiUs of M kind, and anatomy is repugnant to the prejudices of thcltj religion" Astronomy might gain more admirers, but bjj Vstroniiuy they mean only the art of discovering tliedcctcJ of fate l)\ (lie motion of the stars. I + When an Kuropean arrives in Syria, or any pirtofty eastern world, he is astonished at the exterior of ilipin!i»j bitants : it seems as if some premeditated design luil cIdcrJ mined to produce au infinity of .striking contrasts bct^ui the people of Asia and those of Europe. Wilh us, toun. cover the head is a mark of respect ; with them, a iiik(^ head is the emblem of fol'y. We salute in an inclind |)ui ture.; they erect. They sit, and eat npon the ground; «J upon raised iieats. Their manner of writing is also conlrarJ to ours ; and most of ir masculine uouns arc fcmiuinf with them* YTord 1^ in, or toj ff lotha lilicientlyl ' ftMnalei:] they ara ense oftba SYRIA AND EGYPT. A ^* f ■<■ 30 •> (ird. Lovers there are prisoners, ever watcli- rf fo deceive their keepers, and alwa^-s anxious to'seizc the first opportunity, because they know •at when anotiier may happen. Shou'd they liippen to siici'ced in an amour, they are as secret ojiiic "Tave, knowing the fatal consequences of a discovery : in these cases it is hardly possible to avoid the poignard, pistol, or poison, lis de- .triictive consequences to the womeii rcndci; them iiiplacable in punishing ; and, to reveuge them- jclve?, they are often more cruel than their hus- lijiids' or their brotliers. This severity tends to preserve " chastity and decorum in the country; but in the great towns, L much debauchery prevails as among us ; but [it is raor'' concealed. Aleppo, Damascus, and Icairo, are not, ."'. t.!;is respect, behind our pro- Kiiicial capitals. Young girls are reserved there, Ibccause the discovery of » love adventure would [cost them their lives; but married women freely [devote themselves to pleasure, to indemnify them [for the long restraint they have endured, and be- [eoHse they have frequently just reasons for re- iii.ring themselves on their masters. Tiie Turks are much censured for hastening Jtlieir marriages so much as they do : it is notun- Icommon to see girls of nine or ten years of age, [married to boys of twelve or thirteen : hut it [must be confessed that the apprehensions of iiber- [tinism, and the severity with whicli that is punish- [(d by the Turkish police, greatly pi-omote these [premature unions, which is certainly one of the [causes of their early impotence. The ignorance [of the Turks is so extreme, that they uniformly [endeavour to force nature, at the very time ,that [their health is impaired by excess. This also is [to be ascribed to the Koran, in which the amorous [prophet has inserted a precept inculcating this [species of duty *. From what we can learn of the domestic life of [those husbands who have several wives, their lot [is not to be t^nvied, nor does it convey a very e\- [alted idea of this part of Mahomet's legislation. [Their house is a perpetual scene of riot, tumult, [and contention. Nothing occui's but bickerings * Monti'sqiiiiMi has justly assigned polyijamy as one of |tlioraii$o» of ilopiipulation ill Turkey; but it is one of the lliasl cousklt-raljle, as there are few bi '. thu ricli whu iiiduIgH |(bci)selvi'6 wit!) it plurality of womuii ; the commua peoplo, and quarrels between the diflfcrent wives, and complaints and appeals to the husbands. The wives, having .been legally married, complain that their slaves are preferred to them, and that they are persecuted from the jealousy of their mistresses. If one wife is coiiiplimenttd with a trinket, a token of favour, or permission to visit the bath, all the others require the same tokens of attention, or suppose themselves ex- tremely slighted. To restore peace, the poly- gamist finds it necessary to assume the tone of a despot, and from that moment he meets with nothing but the sentiments of slaves, the appear- ance of fondness and real hatred. In vain does eajh of these women protest she loves him more than the rest ; in vain does site lly on his entering his apartments, to present him bis pipe and his slippers, to prepare bis dinner, and to serve his cutfee : in vain, while he is indulgently stretched out upon his carpet, does she as- siduously chase; away thr flics which incommode him; all these attentions and caresses serve only to procure an addition to their trinkets and movables, that, if' he should divorce them, they may have it in their power to tempt another hiisband, or find a resource in what becomes their own property. Like mere courtezans, they think only of stripping their lover before hft quits them; and this lover, experiencing indif- ference or disgust, teazed, by pri;tended fond- ness, and debilitated by satiety, must be far from enjoying an enviable situation. The contempt entertained by the Turks for their women, arises from this concurrence of circumstances, and i.s evidently produced by their own customs : for how should the women retain that exclusive love, which renders them most estimable, when so many share in the affections of their husband ? llow should they have the manners requisite to make llicm amiable, when no care whatever has been taken of their educa- tion ? The Greeks, who are permitted to have but one wife at a time, enjoy domestic peace, though perhaps they approach uo nearer to real happiness. anil especially those of the country, arc satisfied widi one. Evoii iiinoiig the )iit;hcr ranks, persons arc sometimes to be met with, who arc wise enough to imitate thdr cxaoiplC) and u( Iviiowludgc tlutt oue wife i& quite sufficient. , THE END OF VOL\E\ s TRAVELS. ; n ■ ; ■ f '! ;! *, nK'M «p TRAVELS THROUGH SPAIN. BY KNIGHT AND BAttON OF THE SACRED UOMAK EMPIRE: ILLUSTRATED WITH NOTES AND OBSERVATIONS. FROM ' A TOUR THROUGH SPAIN AND PORTUGAL, in 1803. ,) - .-BY, ': ; ■■■'.' ; CHAPTER I. , Ceucral Division qf ^pain-T'Itinerarij from Bayonne to Pampduna, and from thence to Madrid,-*] A Mine of Sal Gem at Valtlerra described. THE dominions of Spain are generally classed by their writers in the following order: the kingdom of Spain, consisting of Old and New Castile ; the kingdoms of Leon, Arragon, Na- Tarre, Granada, Valencia, Galicia, Seville, Cordova, M urcia, Jaen, and Majorca ; the principalities of Asturias and Catalonia, the pro- vinces of Estremadura, Guipuscoa, and Alava, and the lordships of Biscay and Molina : they are bounded by the Bay of Biscay on the north, by the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean on the east, by the streights of Gibraltar and the Mediterranean on the south, and by the Atlantic Ocean on the west: lying between 36 and 43 degrees of north latitude; and between 8 and 22 degrees of east longitude from Fcrrol. The Pyrenean mountains are the highest in Spain, extending from the ocean to the Medi- terranean, several others 'branching out, as frooi their root, such as Mount Idubcda, (now called Montes de Oca) the Orbion, Moncayo, the Puerto de Pajarcs, or pass from Castile to As- turias, the Puerto d^ Guadarrauia, which sepa- rates the two Castiies, that of Molina, of Cuenca, of Confuegra, Alacaraz, Segura, Cazorla, and the Montes Marianos, (now called Sierra Mo- rcna;) the Puerto del Rey, which coinmaods the communication between Castile and Andalusia, and the Puerto del Muradal, where lies that fa- moqs pass called the Navas de Tolosa, celebrated for the victory obt^ine^ there in 1212, over the king of Morocco, and other passes of less note. Amongst the rivers, the Ebro has its source near Fontibre, six leagues from Aguillar del Campo, passes by Logeens. Yiana, CalahortaJ Tudela, Saragossa, Mequinezza, and TortosaJ and a little lower falls into the Moditerrancau at | the AliVqiie Islands. The Guadalquivcr has its source in thcSierril de Segura, passes by Bea.4, Baeza, .'indujar, Cor- dova, Loxa, and Seville, and enters the ocean at I S:in Lucar de Barraineda, receiving in its course | the waters of the GuadalbuUon and Gonil. The Tagus rises in the Sierras near Albarracin,] passes by Zurita, Aranjuez, . Toledo, Alwaraz, Alcantara, Abrantcs, Santarem,. and Lisbon, where it is three miles broad, and enters the ocean, having (he tide as high as Santarem, and reccivingl in its course the waters of the Jarama, Manza- narcs, Guadarrama, Albcrcbe, and others. The Guadiana rises about four leagues from I Montrel, in the Laguna Ruydera, and after running underground appears again near Damid at the lakes or lacques called Ojos de Guadiam, " the I niLLON'S TRAVEI,S THROUGH SPAIN; ahniii half a IPAo-iin iliiitant. The euvirons 507 '*!f:lfn !■:," I '■■ 'm4:ii mm if:;' '>;. ,ym ! r\..][^^ j,.f .ii.,„,M,t., 1/?" \\^ ^^ MM.».t.u\ \ \\;, .,,,,,.1.. v_ ^••, ... w fi,/>'.,A;,/,.,.:,i^~*- — -— — -«v V ^~s. ^StS^ ?./,■■,/,.•; T.-o^T..//..- ^ J/ ___ '^ /yu»**s^' 1 /^ii.in.irr* •">.»/.■/».>■/.■■.■ ^^ V • - y iii't III tC< .il ^ I'MwrliUiA ■A'/'/././<^ . I' iMmm 'r9- ^/ '' ■»!,' ',: iitt» >v .. \ 'N ,\ . -.K. T ' 4^\» ^\ f"""»4 \ ■t%fv\i>fi,-' • .1 > . >-...--■ ii ., f'''\% |»»»«' psuni inul marl I and insinuated itself into their placCj thoughniutil of those substances still remain. I At the end of the principal shaft) the niinfn have carried out a branch to the right, whereili(| saline bed i>ppearH to have followed exactly tlie I inclination of the hill, which in thai part is veivl perpendicular: this stratum of salt descends tn tt:e valley, Jind goes on to the opposite hill ; nhitU regularity destroys the system of those who pte.! tend that sal gem is formed by the evaporation I occasioned by subterraneous tire "l- The strata of saline earth arc of a dark blu*J but those of salt are white. This mine is of a threat elevation with respect to the sea, for you alwavi go up hill to it from Bayonne, excepting thu<«l casual descents which arc inseparable from roorr-| tainous countries. It is a continual ascent from VaUierra tol Agreda, the first town in Castile, on the topofi one of the highest mountains in Spain, called Moreays, whose rocks so decompose into earth, as to be covered with plants, deserving the atttr- tion of a botanist, from the great variety tliciuei aiforded to the vegetable kingdom. From Agre- 1 - • ' r ; ' T" " bitumen often floating on the water when it meets withil. I am of opinion that Kalt grows in the mine like minrni!, that coal is the product of fossil wood, a.i appears froi such remnaiitH as are found in tfie mines, and that the a;. phaltos is produced by the w ater of some s|)rinf;. I exa. mined attentively these strata of aalt;. comparing thcra with the matter in which they are embedded. I observed the ruuf to be of gypsum, with aromatic plants, then two liulKiuf white salt, separated from the gypsum by a few threads f saline earth, thin, three ringers breadth of pure salt, «illi two of stone salt, and a coat of earth next anotlit-r bluthii bed, followed by two inches of salt ; and lastly, othcrhods alternately of earth, and chrystnline salt tothe led of the mine, which is gypseous sioiie undulated like the rest, do. | scunding to the valley, audruing ou the opposite hills a/: . da DILLON'S TnAVFLS THROUGH SPAIN. I the country li well cultivated to Hinojoss, Lithout any *'**' *"" P'*"**' ** '^^^ «* Abmcriz, r 1 forwards to Abmazun, on tlio banks of the }icero: examininff this district, wliich prodticea jfhest «nd barley, I discovered lime rock at a few feet from the siirfiice, which for a great extent has an outward coat of sandy soil with quartz ind 8Bod stone totally differRnt. from the I '>ttomj ivhich gives it the appearance of a foreign matter irought from a distance. The phainnmnnon is Lingular, and those who are fond of hypothcs'ep have here an ample field to employ their itu;i- rination, I^aviiif]; Almnzan you ri»ie upon an cmincnre •hitli aflords an extensive prospect, tlie country »t a distance haviner tlie appearnncc o4*a plain, ihee\e iiol heinu; ablr (o catch the manv ivregu- laritii'S of ground. After some Icaguus of un- tultivalcd land, the coiuitry improves ; thrc« BeaeueH and a half further, I came to Parodc8, and tro»!«ii)g u barren plain arrived at Baraonu, then puling over the Kfeep hill of Aiienza, th0 coni- Knes of the two Castiles, I came in five hours to (adraqne, and four leagues further, to Flores ; about half way, there is a place where there are IhilU with great clefts ; one evidently sees they ■were caused by- the rains which carry away the limy earth, and that all that country had been a lain, for the parts that remain without gaklies, jhdve a bottom of hard rock, and u\ proportion (as the water makes its way through, they fbrm bullies *. I In passing this road, you go through a wood lot' scarlet oak, whose leaves are covered with the gall insect, and on coming nut of the wood, (ind a well cultivated country with vineyards, corn- fields, and plenty of Livendcr, thyme, lavender cotton, and sage; then passing by the village of Hita at the foot of a pyramidal hill, rearing its lofty crest abuvo the others, like a great rock in the sea, with an old Moorish castle on its summit. Having crossed the river lienares you enter a fertile plain with a great deal of small grained sandy pebbles. It is remarkable that on entering New Castile, stone of this kind is always found, even in hills of limy earth: after passing a range of cultivated hills I arrived at the fauious citv of Alcaladc lienares, with an university founded in IMl), by that great statesman Cardinal Ximenez de Cisncrns, who also endowed it with a good library, and printed here, at his own ex- ^wnco, the first polyglot bible, known by tlio name of Complutcniiian. The university is u handsome structure, Ximenez is buried in the church with an elegant monument, by Daminicu of Florence. The medallion of the Cardinal haa been removed from the tomb into the library. Alcala is only sis leagues from Madrid, and be- longs to the Archbishop of Toledo; it gave birth to Miguel Cervantes de Saveedra, the celebrated author of the much admired romance of Don Quixote. The country around is bleak, owing to thesingular aversion which the Caiitilians ha\e in gicneraJ to the planting of trees. Nothing further occurred between this place and Madrid, the environs of which will be described on another occasion. i^jr OVitao Ivtir-v 5i V to JJi -1 I ') i;.i? CHAPTFR II. lO/ the Merino Sheep — Misct'Ucnieovs Ohscrvatitms made at JMadrid, with some Account of the Hoyil Cabinet of .Valurul Itistorij. .{:,, THE wool of Spai- forms a consL-lerable branch of our commerce with that cou.^try. Jh has even bctM) said that its fine quality wuj [originally owing to a few English sheep sent into I Spain, as u present by our Henry the Second, or (according to others, by Edward the Fourth, in * I saw somf! just bogiimiiig, with a likelihood of risiui; I into hills ill the course of twenty j[car8; from whuiiru i cunjccturc, that if some hilts give way, and crumble into 14G5; but witliout entering into fruitless investi- gations of an event so remote, and of so little ronsrqueiicc, I shall confine myself to speak of '.'lose remarkable sheep known in Spain by the nanc of (kiiiado JMcrino, " The Merino flo-ks," ui'd describe the const uit method of conductiiis: pl.iiiis, olh.TS, in the course of time by th(; motion of w>itur;i, graUiiully fonu themselves iulu mountains. J^m^ SIO T>;i,LON'S TRAVELS THHOUCH SPAIN. those riimerous tribes from the northern to the southern provinces, to which they attribute that pecnliar tine quality of the wool, which has rendered it so famous all over Europe. There are two sorts of sheep in Spain, some that have coarse wool, and iro never removed out of the province to which they belong, aid others, that after spending th; summer in the northern mountains, descend in the winter tu tlie milder provinces of Estramadura, and Andalusia, and are distributed into districts, which go by the name of Jderindalcs. These are the Me- rino sheep, of which it is computed there are between four or five millions in the kingdom*. The word Merino, signifies a governor of a province. The Merino mayor is always a per- son of rank appointed by the king*. They havo a seriarate jurisdiction over the flocks in Estrema- diira, which is called the Mezla, and there the king in person is Merino mayor f. Each flock consists generally of ten thousand sheep, with a Mayoral, or head shq)herd, who must be an active man well versed in the nature of pasture, as well as the diseases incident to his flock. This person has under him fifty inferior shepherds, and as many dogs, five of each to a tribe. The principal shepherd has a hundred pistoles (about ^75) and a horse every year. The other servants have 1.50 rials for the first clas'j (\£ 13s. 9r/. ) 100 rials for the second class, ( .€1 2.V. 6(i. ) 60 rials for the third lass ( \Ss.6d. ) and 40 rials, or nine shillings for the other at- tendants. Each of those has an allowance of two po jnds of bread a day, with the same quan- tity of an inferior sort for the dogs. They are likewise permitted to keep goats, and a few sheep, of V hich they have the meat, and the lambs, pro- • Tho Duke of Infaiitado's flock about Countess tainpo •\c Alonse Ncgrctti Paular, and llscurial convents, 30,000 each • Convent of Guadalope . . . - Marquis Perales . . . . - Duke of Uejar . - . - - ^;evl•^al flocks of about 20,000 each All the other tiocks in the kingdom together, on an average about . . . - Sheep. 40,000 30,000 60,000 30,000 30,000 30,000 200,000 3,800,000 4,220,000 In 1778, the wool of Infantado Mts 9285 arrobees in the grease, and Negrctti nearly the lanic. Washed -wool, cuarsu and line together, wcrth at aa average, eight and a vided the wool remains, for tl eir master, may do what they please with tu.. milk, of ^'i|] they seldom make any advantage. In the njootk of April and October, each shepherd has twekl rials given hini (about 2*. l)rf.) as a perquy previous to his journey. I Though these flecks divide and separate the*,! selves over several provinces of Spain, it wjIIlI unnecessary to relate what passes in each, (lI government being similar and uniform. l\ places where they are to be seen in the greawl numbers are *n the Montana and Molina dc AiJ gon in the summer, and in the proviirsce of Estr^ madura, the Montana is to the north, and tlie| most elevated part of Spain; Estretnadiuil abounds with aromatic plants, but the MontiKl is entirely without them. I The first care of the shepherd in coming ^l the spot where they are to spend the summer, A to give to the ewes as much salt as they willeit| for this purpose they are provided with tweolhl five quintals of ^alt for every thousand hei^| which if consumed in less than five months; bg|| they eat none on their journey, or in wintctJ The method of giving it to them is as followiil The shepherd places fifty or sixty flat stones aboatl five steps distant from each other; he strewinltl upon each stone, then leads his flock slowlil through the stonei, and every sheen eats at pin- 1 sure. This is frequently repeated, observing not I to let them feed on those days in any spot when I there is lime-stone. When they have eaten thel salt, they are led to some argillaceous spoti,! where from the rraving they have acquired tbtjl devour every thin^ they meet with, andretural again to the salt with redoubled ardour];. I At the end of July each shepherd distributes I the half rials vellon per lb. (about 2s.) e-.clusire ofdut'O,! which are 20 per cent, on exportation. There is a curious discourse on the wools of Spain in the I second rolnme of the Spaninh correspondence of Lord Sand. | wich, Lord Sunderland, and Sir William Godulphin, in book eititl«d, liispanin Illagtrata. London, 177 ii. f There is a supreme council at Madrid rall.'d Cm'tjD i de Mcula, which takes cognizance of all matters relating lo sheep, wool, shepherds, pastures, woods, and all cunccrii that biBlong to royal seats and parks. X Mf' B«>wles observes, that if the district is limy or I m.trshy, the sheep cat less salt in proportion to the lime t^ licacy of frame, or other causes, lose f hetr's after Bve jears. About the niddle of Septeidb^r thfe^^ are oaric^j nvhieh is done by rubbing their loins iritb ocre dilerte^ in water ; sortie iray tMs ea^rth Incorporates with the grease of the wool, «^d Ibrmsa iiiiid of vatnish, which fyrOtfects them from |be inclemencies of the "weath^ ; others pfretetid hat the pressure of the ocre kee|]%the wooNhOrl, prevcnfs it from becoming Of an ordinary guality ; otiiers again uarragine, that the ocre-acts ||d the nature of an absorbent, and tacks ii-p the fexcess of transpiration, 'which would Iteitder the vool ordinary «nd eoarse. Towards the end of Septctnfcel' these Metiwo Bocks begin their malHiAi to a ^H%rmer dim&fe; Ijhe whole of their roUtfc has heda regulated by lihe laws and customs, tfoing si ..nrtimcs six lor seven leagues a day in order to reach open |»|(0t8, less inconvenient, where they may iind pasture, and «njoy some repose. In such lopen plates they seldom exceed two leat,ues a [dav, following the shepherd and grazsug as Ihcy jtBove on. Their whole journey from the Mon- hana, to the interior parts of Estremadura, «u»y he about one hundreu and 6fty leagues, which [ihev perform in about forty days. the first care of the shepherd is to lead them [to the aame pasture wiiere they have been the I ■ - — ..--.•,■ fictthoii^li ignorint of thn cauac, ^Th7^tli!i iiicht's LDgliih. ♦ K The ih.' 1 , !;. A .tf'J^f 312 DILLON'S TRAVELS THROUGH SPAW. .\*^1 5..." The crown of Spain receiv€8 annually^ by all duties together on exported wool, nearly sixty mil- liwns of reals vcllon per annum {£61b,000.) , The town of Madrid is now become the ca- pital of (he monarchs of Spain, situated in the veotcr of their dominions, and from one of the filthiest places imaginable, is at present on a par for cleanliness with several principal cities of Europe, being likewise well paved and lighted, but in respect to population, it is far inferior to London, Paris, or Naples. Madrid is in a higfa situatiou ; all the rivers and brooks in its ueiglw bourbood fall into the Tagus, whose waters roll dawn to the ocean. The Guadarama mountains, to the north west of the town, are covered with snow several months in the year, which added to the piercing north winds, that reign in tlie winter, renders it er^cessively cold, while in summer the southern and westerly blasts are ge- nerally attended with dampness and rain. Tra- vellers have told us, that the air is so subtle, that if a dead dog was thrown into the streets over night, he would not have a bit of flesh on his bones in the morning, but this is a fable, as it is a known fact, that dead dogs and cats lie in the streets continually, as well as dead mules, close to the road side, for days together, without any such eflect. The principal streets of Madrid are paved with cut flint, the others with pebbles, found in the neighbourhood, the cut flint on account of its sharpness is very inconvenient to foot pas- sengers, and the flat pavement near the houses is too narrow. The town is well supplied with water, and there are conduits in the principal ♦ Mr. Bowles has o.'isorvcd, tliat if that cclebratpd pro- fcfsor, Mr. Ilcncki,'!, hiul come to Madrid, he woiilil soon liare bwii convinced of his error, in saying that flitit was nut to be found in strata, and only in ilelachoil liimpK, or in•mas!^c»i; for here he woiihl find all the environs replete >vitli strata of flint; and moreover not a honse or a build- ina;, but what has bctn constructed with lime made of flint, which serves for (iw arms, as well as for the pave- ment, ill some places pieces arc found of it full of a species of agate, streaked with rcvl, blue, white, green, and black, that take a very jjood polish, Init these colours are acci- dental, and disappear by calcination. No acid will dissolve It, or cause any efler\,'sccncc ; when calcined, it burns in the water with more violence than true limc-stonc, and mixed with the pebble or coarse- sand near Madrid, makes an exueilent matcriul for buildiuif, though it does uut aiu . twer so well with the fine sand of the river. + Nothiiif; can be more bh-ak and dismal than the general ^H«pects of the cuuntzy rouad the scat vf iti> monarch, with streets; thaLpalled Del Barro^ •"*''« neigli^ I hood, .of the town, is constantly drank bv tul royal family wherever they are. The bread' I white and good, and the Plaza Mayor, or DrM cipal square, where the market is kept, is ». I tremely well supplied with all manner of visions *. °Ii> the environs of Madrid there are about twgl hundred villages, but few can be seen on accouiil of the inequality of the ground, the countrj being broken up by continual gullies, and varioixl changes of aspect, occasioned by torrents, iA other casual accidents, in a country little culii.! vated, and abandoned to every vicissitude o(| season. Near the town they chiefly sow batljt] and here and there have some trifling vineyatdi'l Their tillage is much the same as in Old CastilJ that is, just io scratch up the earth, and scatieti the seed at random, then to cover it over wjtli|| similar indiflTercnce, and wait for the cominj>( the poor labourers from Galicia, to get inthti harvest. The farmers pretend tliat if theywetel to make use of a stronger plough, they have less corn f. The royal cabii>et of Natural History, itl Madrid, was opened to tin- public by his mJ jesty's orders in 1775 ; a handsome house haviDfl been purchased, of which the flrst floor was aft-l propriated for the Royal Academy of SaD FetJ naiida, and the second for the purpose of rc'l ceiving an ample collection of natural curio-l silies, which had been collected in Paris byDoif Pedro Davila, a native of Peru, which m Majesty has accepted qf, and appointed liiol director thi^reof; and was also at the chargeofl a great want of frees, to which the Casli" > ■ liavcsu:lii| ldi^like, from a false notion that thoy incrcr ,• the niimhiil of birds to cat up their corn; as if this reason woiildn^tl hold (;ood in other countries, where shade is nut su iit.l cessary, as it is in Castile, to support the moisture uf tliil soil ; or that it was ever an objection in Valencia, a kin;,! doni so fertile and wooded: the Caslilians not rctlcctindr that th(! seeds of plants, and leaves of trees, utford nurtml for insects, and birds, anil prevent them from dt'!iiroyin|l the grain as they do in tJaslile, for want uf other foodif besides the advantage of screening the earth in hot woj|lut|| and preserving a due moisture after dews and rain;fot| without their aid, the scorchint; beams of the sun {larcliupl the earth, and renderi it iiufriiitfiil ; so that what lilM comes up is devoured by birds, in a climate whore iuIukI seems to have desii^nod it should be otherwise; l'orthccli.r mate of Madrid is not in itself averse to the pru|i:i;;3iiiii| of trees, as may be seen by the public walks, and lumlin iinproTcm«nts and plantutkiii». brin^ii'f BILLON'S TRAVELS THROUGH SPAIN. 313 fin»log tliem front Patis. Everj thing is raoged I tb" neatness and elegance, and the apartments Ire opened twice a vreek for the public, besides Line shewn privately to strangers of rank. Tne collection of beasts and birds is not large. key bavC) among other curiosities, the great AntBea"" f''*"" Buenos Ayres, the Myrraecopha- L Jubacta of Linnaeus, called by the Spaniards \g^ palmer n,v/h\ch was alive at Madrid in 1776, tnd is 10^ stuiled and preserved in this c^ «inet. he people who brought it from Buenos Ayres, Uy it differs from the ant-eater, which only ffeeds kfletnm^ts and other insects; whereas this wouid it flesh, when cut in small pieces, to the amount [f four or five pounds. From the snout to the Ixlremity of the tail this animal is two yards in length, and his height is about two feet. The kead very narrow, the nose long and sh^nder. fhe tongue is so singular, that it looks more Ike a worm, and extends nbove sixteen iiirhes. lis body is covered with long hair, of a dark brovrn, with white stripes on the shoulders; and irben he sleeps he covers his body with his tail. The mineral part of the cabinet, containing brecious stones, marbles, ores, &c. is very per- tt. Amongst other curiosities they have a mass Lf gold 22 carats, which weighed sixteen marks. ■our ounces, four ocbavos, Spanish weiglit, found In California, and sent by the viceroy of Mexico Is a present worthy of his Majesty's acceptance; ^Iso several curious specimens of silver ore, from be Guadalcanal mine in Estrcmadura, of that ort called Rosicler. Specimens of Mexican and Peruvian utensils, mti, &c. in earthenware of that kind, which llie Spaniards aW liarra, wretched both in taste pind execution. Some productions likewise of )laliei(e, which the Spaniards call amafh. A curious collection of vases, basons, ewers, cups, plates, and ornamental pieces of the finest I Were painting and sculpture mj objects, this would'bc hW jilare to doiirribu the inaiiy lino picturos in the royal nalacc. and in the noblemen's houses at Madrid ; but I pass pom over lh(! more readily, as modern traTcllurs have de. biribed the most beactil'ul of .these pirtares. 1 sbdil Just .obscrvi' ^ha( a late writer who s|>ent seme lime at Aludr> by Julio llumano, (ho abl '«,t and fa»ouiite scholar of Raphael. The same writer speaki.i'f of the pielures in llie palace of nueu Hetiro in the salooU', named /)(; lox liaj'ios, calls one picl'ire " ^anta Cniz siic- coiiriiij; CJeneva ;'" whereas it i-s the surrenilcr of (Jeiioa to lli.it (itrieer, being placed amongst other liistoriea! pii.fes of the limes, which are termed by him, " Scripture sub. ; jecls of the Old Teslamsnt." ^ f A Spanish palmo is eight inches anil a quirter. vas il'jfiii' ■ (■^Ti r»i: I \. -fi 'A . i 314 .DILLON'S THAVEL*! THROtJfiH gPWJ.1. ir-m was brought in Madrid in 1616, by Antonio Guidi, brother-in-law to Tacca, attended by An- drew Tacca, another brother of tlie sculptor, who brought with him the gilt crucifix fixed on the altar of the Pantheon at the Eiicurial. The mention of the Retiro has naturally led me into the agreeable gardens of that palace, and to the ipcuagerie, where, amongother curiosities, they have a crested falcon from >t1te Carraccas. ourious bird, whiohvs lAout the size of aturl raises the ftealhers on his head in the fonni^ crest, and has « hooked hi!!; the lower inani rather straight; bie back, wings, and throat 1 black, the belly wbite, the tail distinguishedt fou' cinereous, and paralld stripes, aifd \s^. uescript bird not takon notice of by Liniiftw CHAPTER m. Description of the Palace and Gardens of Aravjucz — 37ip Boyal 'Seat and Gardens of iY. /Wi^o, with som4i Account of the City iff Segovia. THE Toyal 'seat of Aranjucz, seven leagues distant from Madrid, and to which a most noble road has been matk:, it> delightfully eitu- ted at the con'ftux of the rivers Tagus and Jarama; which run through the gardens, and add new beauty to this cbarmii^ ^pot, w^herc art and nature «eeni to go hand in hand with the most pleasing and rurivl simplicity. On one aide, five avenues of tftately OmiA and lofty elms con- vey the truest ideas 'Uf magnificence, while they afford the most reviving ^hade ; on the other, the sudden transitions to lawrs and wilderness, the cascades of water break i:^ tbrougli the thickets, the tiHieful songs of numberless birds, sheltered in these co(4 recesses, the occjMional appearance and passage of the monarch, attended by the grandees of hifiU8. Amidst the freat variety of birds in these woods, there is one ibout llie size of a cuckow, called FitOt o a [eaiit''""' P"n''e- The palace being an old building with several Idditions is more in the style of a hunting seat, philin the lid. designed it, than of a royal nansiou, nor is there any thing very particular I the apartments, to take off from the enjoyment tf go many fine objects abroad. The new wings lothe palace are finished; in one is a pla> house, W in the other a chapel. Part of the cieliug of [be former was painted by Mcngs. There are seven fine pictures of Lucca Jordano ]the apartment called FA Cubinetc Antiquo, and (jx others in thatrfe los JMcnjordomos ; particu- grlv one, universally admired, in which a num- tr of beasts are represented listening to Orpheus, Lnd seeming to be struck with the melody of iiis ■vre. In the chapel, over the great altar, there La fine picture of the annunciation by Titian, bresented to him by Charles the Yth, and brought from the convent of St. Juste after the ^eath of that emperor. The Porcelain Cabinet, »here there are several large pieces of the king's ])wn manufactory, is also an object of curiosity lo a traveller. In a word, this charming i)lace Is hij>;hly indebted to Charlesthc lllrd. for bring- ing the whole, to its present slate of beauty, and Baking the new road from Madrid, and the koble •itune bridge over the Jarama,. Whoever has seen the gaidt-ns of Aranjuez will bit think it extraordinary that (he sovereign of [ipain »lioutd have aimther agreeable seut in the fcrlile dominions of his crown, but when a trave'- Icr lias crosiiod the craggy and bleak mountains of piKidiirrttuia, it will be a matter of singular sur- pri^; to behold one of the most diear\ rocks era- pi'llislu'il with nn ugieeuOle villa, where the liht's (»f Mexico have been luvishod to eflfect the Vol. 1[. No. XC. alteration; such is the royal scat of St. Udefonso; for in. few parts of the world, the powers of art have been more strenuously exerted to correct the rugged state of nature, and convert a horrid rock into a sumptuous garden, decorated with beauti- ful fountains, throwing up waterto a great height, like those of Versailles; while a variety of trees, brought from diilerent parts of the world, furnish shady walks, in a spot unfavourable by nature to all kinds of vegetation; sliewiufi'to what the art of man can attain, aiul lully evincing tlie efforts of Philip t\w Vtli, wlio at the expcnce of ii'illions of dollars changed a barren anJ solitary nouniain, into one of the most desirable spots in !iis kingdom; yet not without those incoa- veniences whicii all the power of art cannot con- quer; for, on account of its lofty situation, the night air, even after the hottest sunnner's day, is so piercing, that it makes precaution necessary, to guard against its sudden and pernicious elfccts. In other respects nothing can be more reviving during the summer heats, than the shade of thcxo gardens, invigorating the languid courtier, whose spirits are further revived by the coolness of the groves, added to the most limpid water that eyes can behold, in some places flying up into the air, to an immense height, in others roiling down in torrents, which, when catched by thft rays of the sun, seem like so many sheets of liquid .silver, of a most amazing brightness. As the cold air of this place keeps every thing back, the king finds a new spring after he has left Aran- juez, while his subjects are dying with heat at Madrid. The earliest fruits are but juat ripe in August at St. Ildcfonso, carnations and rores then adorn the parterres; September is the season for strawberries, raspberries, currants, and barberries; and snow lies on (he mountains till the beffiniiinir of June. Many springs run down from (lie sum- mit, and sides of the mountains, and are collected into a considerable bason at the upper end of thi; garden, to whicli they have given the name of El jyiar, "the sea;" whence (hey are dis(ributed to all the did'orent fotintains and water-works, the whole gnideii being on a slope, about two miles in circumference. Other springs with two brooks, form the little river Eresina, uhound- iiig in salmon trout, where (he king often di- verts himself with fishing, under the shade of thiikets, beautifully variegated by the pencil of nature. 4 L The i ' ^ ! ■ '; :.(v .' MM \ 5 I h 1 M I i\s I^ILLON'S TRAVET.S THROUGH SPAIN. The dreary mountain At the top of these gar- dens *j is a kind of rock composed of clay and fine sand, which by degrees crumbling and mix- ing with rotten leaves and roots, forms that light coat of earth, which just covers the rock, and gives nurture to the firs and other trees and shrubs. The foot of the mountain is of granite, and serves fgr building, sometimes for mill-stones, though rather too soft for this purpose, standing in need of frequent repairs. They get vegetative earth on the north side, about a hundred paces from the green rails of the flower garden, which being further cherished by manure, is laid a foot high on the rock, and by dint of cultivation and care, they are enabled to raise flowers and fruits, whose roots hardly touch the barren soil of the place f . The palace of St. Ildefonso has a noble collec- tion of excellent pictures. In the gallery there are many fine statues bought at Rome, out of the collection of queen Christina of Sweden ; amongst which the groupe of Castor and Pollux sacrificing, and a fawn, are undoubtedly the most beautiful. The statues in the garden are chiefly of marble of Granada, some few of marble of Carrara: there is nothing else remarkable except the fine looking glasses made in the king's glass house at St. Ildefonso, which supplies all the pa- laces: they have hero the largest tables perhaps in ijie world for running plate glass. The great- est being 145 inches by 85, and its weight 405 arrobrs. The smaller is 120 inches by 75, and ■weighs 380. This curious art was first invented by the Sieur AbraiL-im Tliovart, who proposed it to the court of Versailles in IGfiS, and is per- formed much like the casting of sheet lead by the • Speaking of the gardens of St Ildefonso, Mr. Fischer observes, that they have a number of fountains, and a stair, ('.'ise for .1 eascade ; l>iit the only pleasini; part of it is where you got out of the sii^Ut of these, and see " wliile the dog star rafji''', throud[h the overh.iiifiing trees, the side of ihc moiKitsin |);itehed with snow. The fountains are situated in centres, whilhcr tiie straight wallis tend: tlu'y are all inferior ill s'li'' to the Lirgestat Versailles; but one of them, a fit^dre of Fume, is said to raise water higher than any in Europe. Fi;cher. t .Mr Bowles informs us, Tliat when the late queen mother lived at St. Ildefonso. tiie Infant, Don Lewis, her son, had an aririry in the gardens, tilk-d with a great variety of beautiful birds; one place was allotted for woodcocks, where they lived for several years. In the middle of their cage a channel of spring water was introt^iiced, which kept sp a coastaut freshness of Tcrdurc ; a tlr tree stood in tlic plumbers, by which meant- they are etiabltj t make glasses of double the dimensions of \\1 by the Venetian method of blowing, bejj other improvements J;. At a small distance from the palace, at ai called the Mata, near the powder inagajk there is a vein of quartz, which appears abi ground, running from south to north fur g|w half a league, till it enters and loses itself jmi opposite mountain. A piece of this quartj about six pounds, being cut, seemed very curiom being half transparent, and almost as fiiie astoi crystal of a milk colour, forming thoiie vei called by miners, " noble veins." The environs of St. Ildefonso, and particulJ the foot of the mountain, are covered with t J inarkably foie sort of grass, to which thev (jJ the name of cosquilla, from its eflfect of ticklii the hand when touched. The root is abw eight inch^nl- CHAPTER IV. ,.H ^■T ^mriure from Madrid for the City of Burgos — Remarkable Objects on the Road from Burgos Ito the Provinces of Alaba and Guipuscoa, as fur as Irum, the last Town on the Frontiers of Spain liowards France — Environs of Reinosa— -Source of the River Ebro. kN leaving Madrid, to go {into Old Castile, the first grand objects which strike the eje t naturalist, are the mountains of Guadarra- that divide the Two Castiles : you leave the [^oui Escurial on the left, and following the W road, asceid these lofty mountains, whose kpi, and particularly where the marble lion andi, are chiefly covered with fern, which is jonnion here, though scarce in other parts of his country. From the highest part of the road, jiere is an extensive prospect of Old Castile, Irliich is more elevated than New Castile, and brms a spacious plain not unlike a great sea. [n easy descent leads to the Hcrmita dd Christo VI Ccdoco, where grey and blue marble is dug flit of the adjacent mountain, and is found al~ kost close to the road. The mountain tei minates (t Villacastin, but the grand plain only com- nences at Labajos, where they sow the peas yied Garbanzos in a Tine blackish soil, but they kre not equally tender and large every year, no me than at Salamanca or Zamura ; for though Ihe land is good for this sort of pulse, its success depends much upon the weather. A new bridge has been lately built over the * The cathedral is a buildiiii; which would puzzle any Ifonnoisicur in Gothic architecture extremely, being a piece lof the sixteenth century ; it is large andloriy, ulthahish Itovvcr and little domes, retaining in its ouilinc much of the (lothif character, bat very plain, and unlike any particular Jiuli'of that species of building, and perfccily dissimiliir to |th>> Unrid manner >tliich obtained ill Kugluiid during the Itfu'cnth century, fisc/itii; river Almarza, whose banks are lined with poplar and elm ; half a league further there is another plain, without a single tree, but water is found at two or three feet depth ; so that a very slight plough answers the purpose, it being sufficient to tear away the weeds, to secure a good crop of wheat; this is generally the case i',i Castile, where they have fine harvests without being obliged to wait for rain to sow their corn, the vicinity of water and strong dews being sufHcieat to fertilize the soil, the reverse of what happens in the southern parts, where the water is deep under ground, the soil dry and tough, and strong ploughs must be used ; besides waiting fur raiu or an appearance of its falling, otherwise the grain hardens, and is in danger of being devour- ed by birds, insects, or rats. In tiiesc plains, the villages are numerous, as well as the vine- yards ; the soil is sandy, and ycl, by means of the nc'arncss of water, produces plenty of shumach: every house has its garden, and the sides of the road arc chequered with the lychynis, and oak .»< .feiusalem. Though the plain I have just I'.entioned is of about cifijht leagues extent, with' • I the appearance of a spring, or a brook, + This is the most picturesque object in the world. The great tower has been lately cleuiiod, which rather modern, izcs its appearance ; but the elfect of thi! whole mass of tur- rets, chambers, and s|)ircs, as viewed from behind, beyond the foss, is as romantic as possible. The front of the castle is covered by rings worked in the plaistcr with which it is covered, an utuaucut uf Mooribh origin. J-VtcAcT, tfc« m fj'' ft', k! I, f ; !■ ii'.i '^r-i 1 ;! ■) •1L I I 5-, 918 DILLON'S TftAVELS THROUGH SPAIN. the inhabilanfs drink (he waters of wells and cisterns, without any bad consequences, or being troubled with agues, as the water docs not stag- nate, but has a current near the surface, and re* gains from a higher region, what it loses by evaporation. This accounts for their having such fine grass and pasture in Castile, and so many herds of cattle, with such a variety of game, birds, and wild and domestic animals. Near Valladolid there are groves of fir trees tcrmimited by an extensive plain, covered with green wormwood, oak of Jerusalem, and thyme, of that beautiful sort called thymus Icgitimus riispanicus. The city of Simancas* appears on the left, about two leagues distance, as you enter the once famous city of Valladolid, situated on the banks of Pisuerga. This large city ex- clusive of colleges and some churches that have good remains of Gothic architecture, now only exhibits the dismal remains of its former grandeur ; and the palace where Philip the Second was born, has nothing but bare walls, where bats and spiders quietly inhabit the mansions of the great Emperor Charles, and the Philips, his progeny. Every thing is barren, with dreary aspects of flat topped, barren sand hills, as far as Caveron, where they have vineyards, and make a tolerable light red wine. Leadwort is common on the side of the road, whose leaves pounded, are said to be good against the gangrene. The vineyards are numerous, near the town of Duenas, which belongs to the Duke of Medina Celi. The plain extends to llodrigo, whoso environs produce a little lavender, two sorts of shrubby Jerusalem * Tlie recttrili of tlie kingdom liaviiig been found to be ill great confusion, ami a large colitction of valuable jiapcrs discovered at VulladoliJ, Philip 11. ordered liis chief aieliitect, Juan de Herrera to consfruct proper apart, ments at Simanras for their preservation, and they were «li>^posed of in nine grand divisions, or apartinent!>s ae. cordini;ly. In the stroiigcsl, ealled the Ciibo, were those lelatiiig to CJranada, Iiidiis, li^ht to Naples, Navarre, J'orl'igal, Vicariate of Siena, nionarrhy of Sicily, esta. tlishment of the incpiisition, wills of kings, capilnlations of peace with France, with Moorish kings, with tlie House of AuitriA, marriages of catholic kings, grants of military orders, and slate jiapers from the time of Ferdinand V. all which are [jreserved ia wooden cases fixed in the wall In the year 159^ th^ kin,;'; vibited them. All the proceedings relating to the imprisonment and death of Don Carlos liis son, were deposited here in Ji trunk, carefully locked. Another aparlioent was built for accounts, and oiher oflicc papers ; in iinolher were papers relating to royal pal.ices; idw suits, grants, kuighls of military oiJcrs, and Indies; sage, with a sage leaf, Hfld meadow ra^MiiJ which are the only plants the country aftbrds, i the territory of Campos is so bare and destitutt. trees, that the inhabitants are obliged for fuel i burn vinestocks, straw, dung, and the fewaron tic shrubs they can find ; their kitchens are stoves, and they sit round them on benches, w,j ing to these wretched hovels the emphaticnimi of Glorias. A solitary elm or a walnut treei. and then appears near a church, a sure sixiitL water is not far from the surface, and that its roJ have partaken of it f . On approaching the hills, th« pebbles' had almost disappeared, sbew themselves agaii increased both in number and bulk, and althnu?||| from Labajos they were scarcely larger tba oranges, ihey «r« now double that size, ani rounded, which the others are not, covering t_ tops of the hills : it is somewhat singular, tbil these stones, which are of a flne sandy grain.aoi are found every where in this province, be of the very identical sort and colour, astha of La Mancha, Molina de Arragon, and oti parts of Spain. The country from hence to Burgos, prnduca plenty of wheat, and some flax; the road a continual though gentle ascent, with muckl conglutinated sandstone, of which there is \ sort near Burgos, so firmly conglutinated viilJ small pebble, that it forms a marble like M lircccia'l, and takes a good polish, spcciinensol which may be seen in the choir of the eathedtal of Burgos. The environs of this ancient cit)( are remarkably pleasant and shady, with maoi another for records of corporations; and in another l. inenicrials and letters of kitigs, princes, and states, cos, fcrning riamlers since the, rebellion. Vida de Philipo Hi Por Luis Cabricradc (Jordova, iMudrid, ItJlO. TheAmw rican papers alone fdl the largest apartment of this //ickj, and arc said to compose 873 large bundles. The lirospeiJ of iucli a treasure had excited the most ardent curiosliyofl the most elegant historian of America, but the pro-pcctc if was all (hat he enjoyed. PrcJ'uce to Dr. kuhcrtioii History of America. I + \Vhin (his happens, independent of every vicissiiujJ of weather and climate, other trees would tlirivf in likJ manner, and the country might be rendered sliaily aDl pleasant, instead of being the most desolate iu Kiiropo, + The bnccia silicia is the plumb pnsay towards a Sy'-U'raoT Mineralogy, by Axel Fred. Cronstcdt; second tiliiiJi London, 1772. Sec, CCLXXiU. v ,f beautiful •DILLON'S TRAVKLS THRO'JG ( SPAIN: 'J\e bottom of which theriver Arlanzon Lhes its walls, aod has three ytone bridges Lr it. 1'h<' cathedfal is a magnificent Gothic Lcture, and one of, the finest in Spain. The L it welt inhabited by encieot nobility, and fy formerly the residence of their kings. It Le birth to that illustrious hero Fernan Gon- Lles, Slid near the place where the bouse stood, [triiiiuphal arch has been erected to his memory the ex pence of the city, with the following iscriptiuu : rERNANDO GONSALVI CASTFXLA ASSERTORI SV* ^VATIS PII/ETTANTIS8IMO DVCI MAGNORVM BEGVM GRnIt«»RI SVO CIVI INTVS DOMVS ARAE i SVMPrV PVBLICO AD ILL1V8. NOMIN18 ET VRBIS CLOBIX MEMOHIAM SEMPJITERNAM." Tlie parish church of, Santa Gadea, (St. Aga- in), more ancient than the cathedral, is remark- blc tor being the place, where that renowned bmpioii Huy biaa ,de Bibar,: also a native of iurgos, (Miiuiuonly culled the CVd Campeador, Ibliged king Alfonso the Sixth, before be was Iroclaimed, to swear thr^e times publicly, that had no concern in the murder of the late iiugSancbo his brother, at the Hiege of Zuniora, jrbcre ho was treacherously slain by a Spanish laij^Iit, whose iiitnie was HelicI Alfonso, though I is usually i:allcd Yelido Dalfos. The words (flhis extraordinary oath were as follow : "You ouie'tp s^year, that you had no hand in the death ^f my lord the king, that you neither kilted him, or gave counsel tlierein." The, king and bis nobles answered, "^iticn," If otherwise,! may you sud'er the same death ^8 that of my lord ; may a villain kill you, let . ■ — rr— r--r - * At (he Bccoiid ticnu o( tendering the oath tho king; plunged colour, and at thu thinJ ho was greatly dis])loa«ed, itying, '^ Rodrigo l)iat, why do you prusa me to hard^ and nake me (wear (u.day, wheto, tbrco leases beyond Pancorvo, whore there is a bridge over the Ebro ^ : on tho other side of ^hich, the province of \laba bpg'im^ whose inhabitants have likewise made a line road, at their own e\ pence, to the coDfines of Guipuscoa. The road continues almost to Vitoria, bordering on the riter Zadorra, in which the water lily growa" plentifully. The hills are of small, and various co' -cd calca- reous stone, congtutinatcd together. The first village in the province of Guispuscoa, is Salinas, 80 called from its briny springs, which they eva- porate with a boiling heat, and make salt. It is remarkable, that such springs in France, and Lorraine, are always in valleys, but in Spain are constantly found on the tops of mountains, or in elevated places. This just mentioned, is on a very liigh hill, with numerous petrifactions of bhells, in a kind of blueish marble, veined with dpar^ which has been used in making the road. The hill of Salinas is the highest part of Gui- pit&coa. From hence, it is four leagues to INIondragon, so famous for its iron mine in this neighbour- hood. From Mondragon it is a journey of six leagues to. Legaspia, passing by a forge on the banks of the river Onu. , where thev mix the ore of two mines, viz. that of Somorrostro in Biscay, noted for the flexibility of its metal, with the ore of this neighbourhood, which being more abundant and hard, takes forty hours in roasting, and is then fused once without any castinaf, getting at each fusion a quintal of * This -bridge, which had been so miirh damaged, and partof it carried away by inundations, when Mr. Swinburne passed this way, and was obliged to ^o o^cr in a ferry, was entirely rnpaired when I went over it in July, 1778, i Carina is a hard: calcareous stone, of a whiiish grey, used in, forges, where iron Ik fused, in order to absorb the sulpbnreous acid, that mineralizes the iron,, and renders it brittle. X Mica, the glimmer, daze, or gift. See Cronstcdt's iron, following (be sama method observed «y the iron of Somorrostro. Onatc is ii populous and affluent town;tL cliurch, (he colonade, and statues of tlie colM are of sMid->. part] carcoia, siliceous, argillaceous, TWILON'S TRAVELS THROUGH SPAIN.. 321 Lgrt of tlie niountRind, to the Buy of Biscay, and he other, the spiice extending the same ticight owords Castile. The highest part of these nountnins is that internicdiirte Mtuation between baiitandcr, and Burgos, it being a continual Lcent of fourteen leagues from Santander to Keinosn, dracending afterwards from thence, as kr as Burgos. The souice of the Ebro is within \t\( a mile of Rcinosa, and runs easterly, till t falls into the Mediterranean, while the Pisuer- j runs into the Ducro, whose course is westerly, End empties itself into the nrenn ; from whence :T6 « it CHAPTER V. .■•I'/JIMt; 1' P"T;;enc(rable tliickcts of the shrub called Argoma,, as well as Cantabriun heath, and line gorze. Higher up, where (here is less earth, the sides of the hills, and the Tallies, have plenty of {{rafted chesnats, 'which the Hamburgh ships carry away in great quantities frnjii Bilbua. The apiilc tree sacma here to be in its natural, soil, and thrivi^ admirably withou* ctiltiva. tion ; the wh^lu cuui^try producer varirtics of this fruit, but those of Di^ran^o arc the best. Ui-nots are common of tVo or three sorts ; cherry trees grow as hi^h as elms, at Gordfjtula. They kuvc excellent peaches, which they call paviutf with this remarkable circumstance, that they are never grafted, «r improved by any particular culture. Those of Aranjucz are of this kinp, but have not their flavour nor mellowness. Of pears they liaVe grceat variety, and also those choice torts, as tho1)euerre, findantef doy« cnne, fuid bergamoKc; besides abund^u^ce of tigs, nuts, and currants; and though Uip (country dues not produre raspberries naturally, it abounds with excellent strawber. rics, as well as all manner of garden plants, and pulse iu perfection. Their unions arc remarkably sweet; (iaiicia furnishes them ^ith turnips for catUe, as well as for the kitthisai their co,wi and oxen ar« smal), but stout and ro- bust: goats they Ji*eing unskilful au well as can-lets, iiiixiii|( rotten and sour grape with tlu rest, Crh.iculi i" in ^wnj a very poor wine. Thi'ir whole vintagi^ will not !ui for four months consumption, aM the di'fkiciiey must I made up from the province of llioja, which otcuiauJ saying, " That all the iron of i^sray is swallowed duni foreign wine by the natives." Kven KnglishDirii andlia mans, are people of great sobrrety, cumpiircd with ma^ Biscayners, yet drunken men are seldom seen in tliestrn! l>ccanso they are accnstonicd to eat heartily in these driski cntcrtiiinroenta; hrith men and women breakfast, ilim, i in the evening, and snp vcry'|)lunliful,ly; auil }utcii]J c\('ellent health. 1 X Game would be plentiful if there were not so duJ spdrtsmen, though (hoy do not want for p;ii'li'iil;;cs (heir quails are the best in all Spain. In marshy jilu they are well stocked with wild ducks, wuudcuiks, i snipes. In the plains (hey have hares, but no rabliits, i any deer, iior roebucks, «^hich last the Spaniards call ran as coming originally frpin Corsica; so (hey give tliunaine| gaigo to a greyhound, h^vins J'^' '"^ ^''^''^ '^'^'''" ^*'''' ■ 111" prmciN r)ILLON'S TRAVKLS Tlf ROUGH SPAIN S23 fincipal story, besides the ground I .ffirM willi «»» appciidiige of stables. floor, for I'fliccs, Willi an appciiUiigc ot stables, g-raiiarirs, loullioi'iscsi courts, cellars, and gardens; besides lorcbards, meadows, and often cornfields, con- Itieuous to the building, with chcsnut groves, Lifd otlicr improvements to the very foot of the Lountaiiis. Nothing can be more pleasant to the Itrnveller, than to see houses and gardens during lllie vvhole course of his pmgrcss, particularly Ifriwi Orduna to Bilboa, an extent of six leagues, hhlch seems like one continued village. The luppfir part of the houses were formerly of wood, Ibut the new ones are of stone. Scarcely an empty IliaUifc is to be seen or any fallen into ruins. Not only Biscay, Guipuscoa, and Alaba, but kiso the mountain of Burgo.?, are full of gentle- nen's seats, known by the name of Sulures, or Qisas Sului'icgas worthy of nuich veneration from heir antiquity ; the owners of these arc distin- ruished by the title of llUdas^os dc Casa Solar, It ic Solar Cunocido — " Gentlemen of known property;" the most honourable appellation in Spain. The head of the family is called Paricntc ]\hyor, and is greatly rcspkicted by all the colla- tta\ branches; some of these are of such anti- buity, as to be thought to liave dwelled there «forc the establishtnent of Christianity, in that kouiitry, since their ancestors were the founders ^fthe churches, hr^d the patronage of them, and nerc known so far back as four centuries ago, to kave, even then, been time immemorial, in re- feiptof the tythes; others, without any patron- kgc, are dcciiicd equally ancient; many arc so fgr reduced as to be obliged to cultivate their [states, with their own hands, yet will not yield I the others, in nobility and descent, alledging hat, though some branches have been more cii- [iched by fortunate events, }ct they are all equally prung from one common ancestor. Their names Lve undoubtedly passed in a lineal succession, prora a more ancient date than the ages of chivalry, Jlie establishment of coat armour, or of archives, [lid records; to which they pay little attention, * It K ])lca«inf; to bi'liuld with wliut allalillity tlic rich dc- kritii ttii'miji'lvc!) towariU those whu uro ii'ss so thuii thom- flvt's, being obli|;ed to this ciiiidcsiTiisioii from the natural lurit, and pridu of. the p"tivitv, sprightliiicss, and vigour, gives them an appear- ance seeming to border on ferocity, vvcre it not the reverse of their manners, which are gentle and easy, when no motive is given to choler, which the least spark kindles into violence. It has been observed, that the inhabitants of mountains are strongly attached to their country, which probably arises from the division of lands, in which, generally speaking, all have an interest. kingdoms; yet tho common proverb of Castile, Pobrezn no es viU-.it, " I'ovi-rty is not a blemihh," has n(» sway horc, for such arc tiieir uotions of Ubour .ind industry, that their spirit mukes tlioni consider it an indignity to beg; anil thougli the women uru generally charitable, which cannot fail to ittiraL't, mcudicauts, yet such aiv most coininunly straiigor^r. 4N III \jmT7\ 'T^^^^^S Ml !' i' »5S " ■'' - ' I'^iittH!!' *l i ' HI 1 ImBiI TTIlllHflfl : 1 ''t Hi i^ kJ/jBBl i li 1' fl [' 'i Iff? ' f if i: J tti ■1 u \ I m ■ f I m i I i> ' i> • f i 32* DIU.ON'S TRAVF,t,S TIIUOUOIT SPAIN' In this, tlie TJIscayners exceed all other slates, looking witli toiidiiess ou their hills, as the most deli{j;htfnl scenes in the worid, and their people as tiie most respectable, descended from the abo- rigines of Spain. This prepossession excites thcni to the most extraordinary labonr, and to execnte things far beyond what could be expected, in so small and rugged a country, where they have few branches of commerce: a greater proof of their industry cannot be given than those fine roads made from Bilboa to Castile, as well as in Guipus- coa and Alaba. The pass'iih their fingers, and sit in their snioaky cabbins without chimnies, as well us the Bisrayniers. The brogue is also the shoe v)f Biscay; the women tic a kercher round their heads, wear red petticoats, go barefoot, in all which they resemble the Biscayucrs, and with them have an equal good opinion of their ancient descent: the poor Biscayner, though haughty, is laborious and active, an example worthy to be imitated by the Irish. So many concurring circumstances support the idea of their having been originally one people. * Another instance in whicli the Irish seem to have closely imitatcii the Sj>ani»ii tustoms, is iir the taking; of sniifT, of •which ]V(r. HoweF, who was in Spain in 1620, and went Moon !i(tcr to Ireland, gives us the folJoHiiig account, at an early period, after (he fir.t introductiuu of snutfintoEu. rope: " The Soaniards and Irrsh take it most in powder, or S.Tjutcliin, and it mightily refreshes the brain, and I b". licTC there isi as much taken this way in IreUud, as there is It caimot be denied, but that the old Irish, ^j ther from similitude of customs, rcli|ri(,p_ ' .' traditional notions, or whatever else may beih cause, have always been attached to the Spaniatd. V ho on their side, perhaps from political yJeJ have treated them with reciprocal affcclion granting them many privileges and stiling thfJ even Oritnidos in their laws, as a colony descend. ed from Spain; yet, with all these advantaffcs if we except those gallant soldiers who liavcdis! tinguished themselves in the field wherever tliet have served, few Irish have made a coh: piiuoii'. figure in Spain, or have left great wealth 1 1 di^i, families*. The king of Spain has no other titi,' „yfj these free people, than that of Lord of B.^av as the kings of England formerly held o\ei Ireland ; they admit of no bishops, nor of custom houses in their provinces, they content themselvtil with that renown which they have actpiircd fo(| themselves and their issue, insomuch that uii only proving to be originally belonging to tl lordship, or descended ffom such in the imlel line, lawfully begotten, they are entitled to clainl public certificates, or executory letters, kuM Cartas executorias, expressive ,of their beiwl Ilidnlgos dc Sangre, or "Gentlemen of blood j their nobility having been confirmed to (hem, bil the kings of Castile and Leon, lords of Iii$cav,[ in the plenitude of their po^»'er. The most lofiJ Castilians have constant rivals for antiquity aodl descent in the inhabitants of Biscay, Asturiaj,! and the mountains of I^on. Impressed y>M these flaJtering ideas, the high-minded Hiseaviierl leaves his native soil, and repairo to IMaiitidJ Conscious that his blood is pur**, uiicontiiniH natcd with mixtures of Jewish or Mohaiimudanl race, he raises his hopes on honest induslry, audi sobrety, fulfilling his duties with zeal, and sub mission; he often meets with relations in atlliiciiccj and sometimes rises to the highest employments. The town of Bilboa, on the banks of the river I Ybaizabal, is about two leagues from the m\ and contains about eight hur.ured houses, \vitha| in pipes in England. One »hall commonly sec the srnin;l maid upon the washing block, and the swain iipdii iliei ploughshare, when they arc tired wi^h labour, take nut I their boxes of smiitchin, and draw it into their nostrils witbl a quill, and it will beget new 8i greatly esteemed. Amongst the different sorts of fish common at Bilboa, there are two peculiar to that river, which the inhabitants are remarkably fond of; these are a sort of eels in winter, and the cuttle fjah in summer; the former are snail like the quill of a pigeon, of a pale coloui, about three inches long, and without a back lone, and are caught at low tides in prodigious quantities. In a word, every thing is in plenty at Bilboa, for besides a well supplied market, their gardens abound in pulse, and fruit of all kinds; and a stranger cannot but admire the hospitable dis- poiition of the inhabitants, which soon falls oft*, if you slight their cor iality, or attribute it to motives of adulation or interest. Such is the happy life of the people of Bilboa, free from the luxurious as well as the ambitious passio.js, which agitate the minds of their neighbours, they pass their lives in tranquillity, governed by wholesome laws; amongst which they are sdid, even to have one against ingratitude, with a punishment affixed to it. * From the above, it results, tliat a solution, cvajiora. Vhei' the ore is first taken out of this miixil it has the cc lour of bull's blood, and w hen wettt^l becomes purple; great quantities are carn(j| away by water, to the neighbouring provincesT where thi.\y fuse it by itself, or mix it with oteli of their own, which generally yields a haideiN iron. The following is their process with lb>i J' ore whii h is fused without any mixture. The first operation is to roast itf intheopejl air, by piling strata alternately of orr, and in order to divide the ore, repel the moisture,! and diminish its weight, that it nay be mortl easily fused, and the ferruginous parts Foarateil from the slag: when it is sufficiently roasl((i,| they put it in the forge, with the due proportionl or degree of Are, for this purpose, these being variniK, icl cording to the ditlerence of the or"S ; a few ilays, urnu hours, is siiflicient for some ores, while others, siu:lia>ikt| oreof Kaiiimeliburg, require that it should b'.^ continued fori several months. Shinttcr enumerates five methods of roait.l ing ores ; ;•/:. First, I)y constructing a pilti of ore and fuel, piaailal.] ternatclj in strata, ih the open air. Secondly, Hy confining liuch u pile within ^ull«, bill without a roof. Thirdly, lly placing the pile undcraroof, without lawiill walls. Fourthly, By placing the pile in a furnace, coiisis(ini;i'f| watN and roof. Fifthly, I5y roasting the ore in a rcverbatory fiirn.hv, ill which it must be cuntiiinally atirrud, with an iron rud, of ! ■;iUi.jiUJ»i.— ... r>II,T.OK"S TRAX^ELS TIinOUGH SI'AIM, 327 iiMiurcoal, and wlion it appears to have fused, f biviii"' on the hearth^ a mass of four or five lobes, tTiey lay hold of it with tongs, and place li „„ an anvil under an immense hammer, of lout seven hundred to a thousand pounds rei'Iif, and there by force of blows, mm] nioViiig It about, they square it, and reduce it. i.ito bars. flio niiMierous sparks which fly od" from the |j|oM« of *^^' hanmicr, are no more than (he Liiifi "f^ '''*^ metal. The bar thus shaped, may ■ doubled or lengthened m a less forge, i^lhey ileasc, and even beat cold as if it was silver. In llijj manner the ore is fused in a few hours, end llij bars formed, and sold to the blacksmiths. L'^iinerly the iron was beat by mere strength of im, a I'foof of which may be gatliered from the Ljiiies of many places in Biscay, situated where lire is neither river nor brook, and begin, or ,1(1, with the termination ola or oka, ciiher of liich in the Bi.scay language, signifies iron vorks, such as .Mctulwld, that is, "iron works if iIk; mountain." I According to appearance, a quintal of ore will hiodiicc about thirty-five pounds of good iron, tiid tlie residue ab(»ut thirty pounds of shig, and (jead earth As this mine neither contains sul- rluir, nor acids, it is not necessary to nii.x any falcareous substance to fuse it, in order to ab- Ub those matters, so troublesome in mines, that Biavc (li>- misfortune io be loaded with thcn», as Bs often the case in France. However, it would ^otbc anuKS io use a little of it, were it only to issijtthe fusion of the ferruginous earth, accele- Iralethe proces.s, and lessen the slag, aR well as (the (,tia!)tity of fuel. These workmen, by con- istaiit cxpcrienre, have acquired the proper nie- jtliiul oTnianagi'ig the ore, as well as to know the |(|niiiililv of coal for the forge, which is soldom larjicr tlian that of a considerable blacksmith ; so Itliat liltlr improvement can be made on their Ijabours; though by several experiments, made Jin YiVi, by the Suchdad Jiascougadu, or Biscay hooifty, it appears that it would answer better to foa.it the iron, in a close chamber than in the [opon , ir. A good forge well conducted, will '.iold to the owner above five hundred ducats a j^car"; some indeed, hardly produce three hun- Jdrctl. aftfr paying all charges. It is necessary |)br IhcMi to be good u-eonomisls, with respect to \ oL. II. No, XCT. fuel, and to use small forges; for if they were to have such large ones. as are common m mo.st parts of Europe, with all the apparatus of ham- mers and other implements, they wotdd soon strip their mountains of wood, and the forges would be at a stand for want of materials. Besides the mine of Somorrostro, there are se- veral others, some of which are worked, and otliciH not. In one near Bilboa, the ore is seen above ground. About a mile from the town, there is a mine in a hill, of a quite diiferent na- ture from that of Somorrostro, being loaded with vitriol J it is an enormous mass of iron ore, that attracts the vitriolic acid, which penetrating through the ferruginous rock, dissolves the metal, and e.-ihibits on the surface, small laminae of green, blue, and white vitriol. Opposite to this hill on the other side of the river, another similar rock produces a quantity of vitriol solely of a pale yellow, and though the colours green, blue, and yellow, may exist without any vitriolic acid, chemists are very well apprized from experience, that the common iron dissolved in this acid, crystallizes into grrer itriof, called copperas, forms blue crystals, with copper, and white crystals, or alhun, when united with argillaceous earth, and of the same colour when it dissolves zinc, and produces yellow, when it coagulate* with 'he phlogiston of common sulphur, which aV ounds so frequently in the three kingdoms of nature. The most remarkable circumstance, is to meet these colours in the Biscay mines, which, neither contain copper, alum, zinc, nor sulphur; nor is it an easy matter to account for it, without supposing that the pure elementary water, has a part in composing these crystals, and that it« evaporation, either by heat, or air, alters the consistency, and destroys the green colour of the vitriol of the iron, taking away that proportion of water, which constituted it, and that as soon as it loses it, it begins to change colour, and })ar.sing through the various tints of green, and yellow, terminates io white, when all the water is gone: when it is come to that state, and has resemblance to flour, it is called svmpaihetic powder, on account of its styptical quality, so rea- dily staunching the blood, in hemorrhages, and curing of woimds. Whoever chooses ti verify this theory, need only to pour water on this pow- 4 O dcr. ^-^:imi^' n- I ■■•r flu; ■ i'A ■- - * A Spaniisli dutaf, \^prth about I'our bliillings and ciglil prncP| Eii^liih munp/. 328 DILLON'S TRAVELS THROUGH SPAIN. ier, and lie will 6nd that it crystalizes anew into green. If it be asked, why these matters do not unite, aud form sulphur, when there is so much acid, and iron in these mountains, and the iron fonUiins so much phlogiston? the answer is, that for this event to take place, the vitriolic acid, and the phlogiston, should be perfectly con- centred, and dry; whereas the reverse happens in these mountains, where they are so overwhelmed with moisture, that the abundance of this acid, has perhaps been the cause, of many of the mines above Bilboa, beinaj neglecied, as of course they would yield so brittle an iron. This then would be the time ♦e use a calcareous substance, td cor- rect iliis defect. It is for this reason, the S\VEdish iron is preferred to the Spanish, as the latter is so apt to rcdsear; that ia, to crack, between hot and told. At a small distance from this great ferru- ginous rock, an engineer lately cut away a con- siderable part of the hill, to improve the public walks, near the town of Bilboa, and as he made a perpendicular cut of about eighty feet depth, he discovered a vein of iron ore, lying in perfect strata, which, at times, dipped in a direct line, and at others, obliqucl}', bearing some similitude "to the roots of a tree, occasionally of an inch diameter, or the size of one's arm, with infinite variety of ramilication, according to the more or less resistance of the earth, to the passage of water; there being no doubt of this mine bo; alluvial. Here the very circumstance lias ha!' pened, which Don Antonio de Ulloa jucliciou 1 imagined, would follow in the great Iiili f| Potosi, were it possible to lay it open aiuUxj.f mine its contents. It appears therefore, that the mines of W^^, ■ ace in veins, strata, and masses. The Ilanamdr s;* frequently seen in the hollow parts of the m;j„,'i are remarkable for their difterent sizes and torm,! I when broken, every grain was found to hau.iiJ shape of a star, wliicli proves solution, depoMtiuJ and u slow crystallization. These lieniatitcsai.i exceedingly heavy, and if calcined give proofj of containing two or three times more iron, tluj the ore of Somorrostro, but of a brittle and in.! tractable nature. Besides {hese hematites, therel are in this mine, many caviiies of diflcreiit sizej from two inches to two fciit, lined with a ^r^A deal of ferruginous matter, from one to tlir«| fingers thickueHs; this coating appears to he J true emery, and from hence, issu(! cyliiidi'isoff striped hematites, as large as the fcatliersut,! pigeon, two or three intlies long, not unlikeil hedgehog; others have various and fancifnlap.^ pearances, that would make objects of siiigulai|p| curiosity in the collection of a mineralogist, otiil a cabinet of natural history. " * » ■ CHAPTER VI. Tlte Source q/ the Tagus And its Environs dcscrihei — Of the barren and 'wretched District of ' 1 : . . JBatiucao, in IL$* t'cunadura. IN going from Molina de Ari»gon, to i\\p: vc't- ward, you cross over mountains filled with petrifactions, which appearance hwts for two or three leagues. At the third league there is a salt spring which serves th«; people of Molina. The ascent is continual, through a wood of Hr, and •ver mountains, till you reach the village of * Hematites, or blood-gtcm;, is a hard mineral siilwlancp, fed, black, or purplt;, the powder of which it always red, sometimes of an intermediate ft^ure, and sometimes aphcri- cal, scmispherical, pyramidal, or cellular, that is, like a honeycomb, consisting of j)yranii(ls generally fniall, the a|)ices of which, (ippear in a transverse ^ediDU in the ci ecn- — I'"*'*' .,...-.-., . ^.j --. .- — — Ire. It coutaius a lnr(;c portion of iron; fort^ pouiidu of 5i Paralejos on the banks of the golden Ta^us, <»| often sung by the poets, so fiequcntly extol!cil| by historians. At Pcralejos, the Tagus is oidy fifteen pacejl wide, and one foot deep. The petrifactions aiej (►bscrved again in the village, and the river rinisj through a narrow channel it has made for itdtj this metal have been extraeteil from n quintal of tliostonf, bnt tho iron is )()t;iined with such difliculty, a.w.\ i» <.' >;)i bad quality, that this ore is not eonnnonly smelt^i! i great hanhicss ut' lieiiiatites, renders it tit for l)iirni-'liinf;inii| polishing; nu>l.ils. — l)t\/iuiiiiri/ aj (Jhtmistrt/^ /;-«/(.m.,.>.i(//(||»| tlu I'lcmh, LontloHf 1777. ktwccal u. mmmfimi A* DILLON'S TRAVELS TUtlOUOH SPAIV; t'29 etwcen t\'VO lofty mountains of marble, perpen- Bicularly divided near a hundred feet high, acli mountain is a solid block, without either jfizonlal, or perpendicular fissure, if ve ex- pt those casual crevices, ccasioiied by the Lmous pieces which now and flien detach nornious . tieiuselvos, and roll down to the ba^ks of the iver. Such as have tumbled down on (he south l;, liave crnmblcd into good earth, and as the ater filters through them, Ihe soil is fertile, co- ,_ wiih grass, and diflereiit sorts of plants. he opposite mountain is bare, without moisture, fth, plant, or moss, being a stupendous rock ffstino" on a bed of niarble, mixed with white 'vpsiim, veined with red, and prismatical stella- ' spots. About three quarters of a league to lie southward of Peralejos, you mee* the highest llin those parts called Sierra Blanco; its top capped with calcareous rock, its bodj^- of vvhite one, not calcareous, decomposed in the same lanner as the former, with veins of imperfect t, of the thickness of one's finger, with soft rainy pyrites* of the colour and odour of those uiid in the i lays of Paris. Veins of bituminous ood extend from a finger to a foot in thickness, iiidcoiitaii pieces of jet, as large as one's head, hers less, but always with vitriolic pyrites, is[icrscd in the very substance, and interstices of e jci. It seems clearly to be wood, as some lieces have still the hark on, exhibiting the knots, ibrcs, and other purtsj with little alteration, still reserving their ligneous origin, mixed with that, hich composes the true and solid jet. \\ hat is more extraordinary, veins of a lead nunc e likewise found in it, following the oblique, or irect crevices of the wood, while other veins of ;i(! Inverse its fibres, in a perpendicular line, as (II as horizontally, and some small lumps are ud ill the very substance of the wood. In u )rd, (lie four principal orders in mines, may olnerved here iu a small compass, as it me ia miniature, viz. perpendicular veins, cross Hi frafa, and masses. These veins are the bolt xtraordinary, if we consider the manner in • l'yr';"s is a rainPral resembling (he ;s, and a ginit m;my bram- bles, whose beriioi iiflord Un ample n-piist for tlio black birds. It i» also well stocked with tlmt tree called in Spain Ccdro HisiifTir'co, tlie Juniper thurifcra of Linnaeus, a tall stout tree, with bcr- l)y some niiir isite. Perhaps no otli.T kirul of natural body has had •*<) many appellations. Person- curious to (.-.now the other uaiiii'^ lens used, nuiv tliul them in H'-nekell's Pyrito- lofjia; wo think with that c'lcbrato;! chcini'if. tliat the sub. ject h.is bi'cii perplexed b_, '.his multiplaity of names, fui i)i'fore his ijreat and excelli';it work, tlif motions concerning I'yrili'i were very couf'iscd and iuaconriUe.— XJ/c/w/irtry i^ Clmmislrj/, uicH- m lii:,,. !i I, I: sil >• ! 'I ■ i: ■*ii \i j5 '■■ I , I ii ;i iv'l H! i1 \\ .n Hiftji m ^ 330 B!P DILLON'S TRAVELS THROUGH SPAIN. ries like the juniper tree of tlie large sort. The sliow remains on the ground in these cold regions, until June, and the countr)' is a continued chain of hills, known by the name of Sierra, -i-eplete vith various singularities. From Peralejos hither, different petrifactions are found, some- times in the rock, and at others in the earth. If the sea deposited them there, it will be difficult to explain how this should have happened in the highest situation in Spain. To return to the Tagus: this noble river passes by tlie royal palace of Aranjuez, the city of To- ledo, Ahnaraz, and Alcantara >:? Estramadura; then enters Portugal, at Abrantes, and rolls its waters with dignity into the ocean at Lisbon. Pliiiip II, opened the navigation of the river; the first, boat dispatched by his majesty arrived at Aranjuez, from Lisbon, January lU, 1582, and then returned to Toledo, to proceed down the river again; but successive events, and an altera- tion of dominion under Philip IV. put a final period to these improvements. The territory of Hatuecas, situated on the con- fines of Castile and Estramadura, near Portugal, has given ample scope to the fanciful conceits of different writers, relating to its imaginary dis- covery, and whether or not, as supposed, it was an unknown land, inhabited by Pagans, blinded by ignorance, without the least knowledge of the Christian religion. This district, which we are now going to explore, is fourteen leagues to the southwest of Salamanca, about eight leagues east- ward of Ciudad Rodrigo, and twelve to the north- west of Placoncia, formingaplain, or more proper- ly, a most diMnal and horrid gully at the foot of that famous mountain, where stands the noted con- vent called La Pcna dc Francia. The situation of this place inspires every idea of gloom and nielanciioly, closed in by jagged mountains, where hardly u tree is to be seen, or the least ap- pearance of vegetation: on the contrary, number- less })recipices, occasionally choaked uj) by broken masses of stone, detached insensibly (Voin the rocks, form the most Irightl'ul scene the mind can conceive. Such is the true sliitt; of Batueeas, Lornd by nature; reruUred still more so, by ig- norance and folly. Tlif itinerary trom Placeiuia to Aigal tour leagues; Molu'das one; Casa de Faloint;ro one; C.iu)!)roncio two; Vegao de Co- xia two; Lus IMcitas one; and to the copvcnt of liutuccus half a league. ^•een Placencia and Aigal, the hanilcj; il and Gijo de Granadilla, appear on Ik I Bctw< Oliva and uijo ae uranaaiiia, appear on th,| right, and Santibanez el Baxo, on the left njt woods of oak and cork trees. You cross the ri? I Ambroz, or de Caparra, and pass by the Piie«'| del Gamo, before you reach Casar de Puloinet f Then enter the melancholy district of (die JnrdaJ being a-division of what is generally oallod B;i|m f ccas; but in any part of this wretchecl comitiv ifl you ask whereabouts is the Jurdes, some tt|! tell jOM, a little further on, and when you ^^A cecd, another informs you, it is at a small ^A tance behind; nobody being willing to ackiiow.1 ledge himself an inhabitant of the unhappy couJ try of the Jurdes. The town of Alberca is the principal place iji the territory of Batuecas, and not above a leap J distant from this valley: the whole of this ({ijrij may properly be reduced to an intersected vallfl of about a league in length, sometimes si) fon'T fined as just to leave room for the passa^i^ of(|,j| river that gives name to the valley. Thij thej was that unknown country so surpri/in^lydreai!! ed, where it is certain no other dwelled liii( afoJ wretched shepherds, and some miserable peas;ir,|J in forlorn hut^, surrounded by precipices, divisiejj of all intercourse with their neighbours, iiiawilj romantic situation, which the most faiiciriii pen- cil would find difhcult to delineate, or even |1k language of Shakespeare to describe. The other va'lcy called, "of the .Jurdcs" wliitll mtiy be about four leagues long, and three i breadth, yields not to the former in wletchodnci and misery. During the whole jouriiev frojj Alberca to H ituccas, nothing is to be seen repetition of jagged and ill-shapen rock?, wit their rugged peaks, like so many fiirroN ani battlements, towering one over the other, a- I'araj the eye can extend, tbirming dreadful gullies wlicJ the river forces it.s way, whose wafers is ckaij abounding with trout, and having grains of i'fi in its sand.s, which the peasants know Mel! how tl look after, and sell al Placencia, Ciudad, Uddrija and Salamanca, which is a great resource totheJ in this sorrowful vale; where, during winter, tiJ sun's rays can hardly penetrate for above fod hours in the day. To increase still further 4 horror, the hills are perforated with dismal cavci one above the other, and some soexteiisiM'. \\\i three or four hundred sheep may easily t,il shelter tiicre. to complete thi» picture of dblrc W \ \kl i mmm TrtW.ON'S TRAVELS THROUGH SPAIN. 331 . jj julRcc to «idd, iliat this country is the resort f numerous birds of prey, and affords shelter to ' wolves, wrild cats, and M^eazles, which Icstroy a" *'"* ^^'^ ^"^ rabbits, with the ad- lition of snakes, serpents, and many noxious entiles, particuhirly one sort of serpent, which larts at its prey with great violence, and per- i J may be of that species called Jacula, or liiciiln serpetta, described in the acts of the .joldine academy, which mentions one of these have darted from a ditch, to a considerable lisUiicc, and fixed itself upon the arn> of a pea- jnt. But ^^y ^^^^ ^ enlarge any further on so tpjifvii spot, or describe so barren a country, irhrre even ES. HIERONIMO BE JUSTE ay, HK.riiio A acabar sl mda, f,l qve toda la. GAsrO l;N OKrENSA DE LA VE V CONSEIIVACJOS DE LA JISTICIA, CAUI.OS T. EMPKKADOR KEY DE LAS ESPENAS, CHHISTIAMSIMO, INVICTISSI- MO. MURIO A 21 DE RETIEMBRE UE 1558," That is, " In this holt/ house of St Jerom of Juste, ended his dajfn, he who spent the -ichole of them in defence of the faith, and in support ofjusf!i\\ Charles K Emperor, Kinfi: of -Spain, Alost Christian, invincible. He Med on tJic 2lstofSept. 1558." These are the only traces left here of that great emperor, who once filled the world witii tlie glory of his deeds. The ruined decorations of the garden and ponds seem to intimate their |uis- tine state in happier days, and th« several plan> 4 P taaons .'i ,; '■ : I ■! i^i;' i • no %^ U -it CILLON^S TRAVFX^ THROUGH SPAIN. 'iatioiis in (he Vera, watered by numberless brookfl, might ooce haveexhibited a more pleasing appearance. A distinf tion ronst be made between the Vera of Plnccntiu, and the Vallc de Placcntia. The Valley extends from the city to the Puerto de Tornavtfcas, upon a straight line from east to north, the length of nine leagues, and so level, Ihat tb€ whole extent lies open to your view, as far as the Puerto, closed by high mountains, dividing on the right the Vera from the Valle, and on the left the hills between the valley and the road to Banos, and finally those of Torna- vacas, whose high tops are always covered with Know. The villages belonging to the valley are Aspc- rilla, Casas del Gastanar, El Torno, Valde As- tilla, Cabrero el Rebollar, Navaconcojo, Cabe- zuela, Badillo, and Xerte, which gives name to the river, as Tornavacas docs to the Puerto, but at present every branch of cultivation is at the lowest state, without even the appearance of an orange or a lemon tree, if we except two or three blighted ones at the convent of Santa Cruz de Tabilla, where the country is a desert: and vhat is still worse, the mountains and passes are filled with assassins and robbers, to the great terror of the inhabitants and travellers. The Wra is no better, and affords the most melan- choly aspect imaginable *. In travelling to the eastward from Guadalcanal you come in two hours to the town of Alanis, which gives its name to a lead mine about half a league from it to the south cast, which at pre- sent IS abandoned. Going forward from this place brings you to Cazt'lia, whore there is a mine about half a league from the town, at Puerto Blanco. The vd oak, of which there is a wood of about i league square, with a great many cork trecjJ from which they strip oTf the bark every fourf years, as far as a white sap which they leave oqI th'^ working of thiamine, sunk two shafts, and mailc m leri"8 on tho tup of the hill, but abandoned it suuii afiorl peifiaps for want of (ikill, or lufScient eapital to (.» oil with tho works, though it was thought to deserve niuro atJ tciitton, as the ore was good, and they had fuel at hand,! witli a brook at the foot of the mountain, in a fruitful country, with plenty of Tineyard*. DILLON'S TRAVK!^ THROUGH SPAIN. 33S Lt (ree A liquid humour afterwards issues out :„ ^rbich thickens with the sun and air, and V ffli'a D^^ ^'^^ '" about four years more *. [ From Real de Monasterio it is a journey of Lrce hours to Callero, about a mile from whence here is & round insulated hiil, capped with a bein of iialcareous stone running from north to L)utli> where there are both white and grey load-^ones. There is also an iron mine divested L,f any magnetic quality. The whole country . covered with oak and cork trees, some of jhicb are so bulky as to be 50 feet in diameter, but most of them, as well as the oaks, are hollow within, from having been improperly Leaving Cazalia and crossing several bleak ^louotains, it requires nine hours to reach Can- tillana, on the banks of the Guadalquivir, the Rierra Morena terminating three leagues before [the narrow pass of Montegil. After crossing he river atCantillana, the face of the country is lotally changed ; the terebinthus, cintus and len- Lcus are seen no more, uur the mountainous hlants observed before between Almaden and iliis place, from whence one may conclude that lilherto the soil was much of the same nature, For in coining from the Pyrenees to the south- ward, these sierras a-e common, but going north- irard to waris France, it is just the reverse, and ho real mountains are to be seen in the interior [arU of that kingdom, the country consisting ]y of strata of earth one over the other. All extensive plain reaches from Cantillana to I city of Seville, which requires five hours to Ls over, consisting of poor land, without any liones, but producing a great deal of dwarf Llm, or piihuetto, which covers the ground like I'm: the leaves being tied together serve to Bake besotns sufllcient to supply the whole I When the bark is taken off, it is piled up in a poiul or ■iich, and loaded with heavy stones to flatten it, and reduce I into tables, from whence it is taken to be dried and tied Ip i'l bundle" for exportation, being then in a proper state |ur tli(! dilTiTent purposes for which cork is applied. in this plain there is a great nuDkber of olivo trees, Lhose trunks an- scarcely any thinj); better than bark, from bad mothfid of planting these trees, they doing no lioro than taking a stake of an olive tree, of the size of fu't arm, slit at the bottom six inches into four parts; they Lt a iiioae bitweeu the slits, am\ then set it about two JonindiT ground, making a trench round it to keep in liow.uir; the top of the stake being uncovered, the rain lin> triitc's that way, and by degrees with tkd warm air rots fit iiiMile. kingdom ; two sorts of wild asparagus also grow here with a very thin skin, one green and the other white, which before ihey bud their leaves have a multitude of flowers as white as snow f . The ancient and fumous city of Seville has been fully described by modern travellers; its streets are paved with pebbles brought from a great distance, for there are none hereabouts. The old Roman walls which are of earth are now so well cemented, that they are become as hard as stone. In the Alcazar, a palace built by king Peter in the fourteenth century, there are baths which were designed for his favourite Dona Maria de Padilla, in a retired situation shaded with orange trees, which still continue to give fruit I. In the winter season storks are very numerous in Seville, almost every tower in the city is in- habited by them, and they return annually to the same nests §. The cathedral of Seville is a fine gothic building, with a curious steeple, or tower, having a moveable figure of a woman at top, called La Giralda, which turns round with the wind. This steeple is reckoned one of the greatest curiosities in Spain, and is higher than St. Paul's in London ||. The first clock made in the kingdom was set up there in 1400, in pre- sence of king Henry the Hid, when the oldest clock we have in England that is supposed to go tolerably well, is in the palace of Hampton Court, and of the year 1540. Nothing can be more delightful than tlio prospect of the country round Seville, beheld from the steeple above- mentioned, its beautiful and fertile plains, with its delightful gardens and orange groves, convey every idea of fertility and pleasure, with the addition of the river Guadalquivir, which brings ships up to the walls of the city. It is a journey of seven hours froni Merida to X The Solano wind or south-cast, is very troublesome here and all over Andalusia, turning tjio head and heatine the blood in such amanner as to causo various excesses, an^ were not precautions taken to prevent its effects, they woul4 still be more sciisiblo in youth of both sexes, § Tliey destroy all the vermin on the tops of the liouses, and pick lip a great number of snnkes, so that they are welcome guests to the inhabitants, and looked upon witk peculiar veneration. It is said in same parts of Spain, thai if they «lo not appear by St. Agatl^i's Day, (the fifth of February,) the people tling stones at the© when they corns and drive them away. (I This beautiful' t.iwor is .150 fuet bii;b, St. Paul's la London, .^44. St. Mark's, at Venice, 337 feet. Salisbury sloeplo^ 490(eeti anU St. Peter's, at Uaue, 434 feet. Talavera ' ' f 1 I ti! ' f n i' i M , 1 1 1 . 1 , if •t^ ^ w , c. 5 Mtl ■*»«. ;»)« DILLON'S TRAVELS THROUGH SPAIN. h Talavera * tliroiip;h a sandy plain, traversed by tlie Guadiana, >vliicli lias a great niany islands covered with flocks of slieep, and numerous herds of cattle, that are often carried away as well as the shepherds by Ihe sudden increase of the river: the plain from Talavera to Badajoz produces nothing but broom. At this last city the soil changes again, and the calcareous earth, stone, and rocks make their appearance once more. Estremadura is the only part of Spain where they have neither salt springs nor rock salt, which obliges the inhabitants to procure those articles from their neighbours. This large and fertile province, reputed about fifty leagues in length, and forty in breadth, so happilv si- tuated for every branch of cwllurc, and where the Romans seem to have taken such delight, is now thought not to contain above a hundred thousand inhabitants, a number coinprised in many capital cities; but if their numbers are small, they value themselves on the quality of their heroes, having furnished a Cortez, a Pizarro, and the unfortunate though great Vclasco Nunez de Balbao. The ancient city of Badajoz, the Pax Auc:iista of the Romans, called JiaUaugos by .'le Moors, and now Badajoz, is the frontier town next to Portugal. The bridge over the Guadiana has twenty-six arches, and was built by Philip the Second. Numerous families of negroes and niu- latoes are settled in this country between Badajoz and Zafra. Proroeding from Zafra to Sta. Marta, the founfry improves for about five leagiu's to Zarza del Angel; then you pass by Mouasterio to Fuente de Cantos, where the Sierra ' ' .ena * Diffcri'ut from Tutuvcra ile lit licyiia on ilii' Taijiis in Nf«v Castile^ fuiDOu:! fur its iitic eurdiciivwirt- and .>ilk ma- mifacturc : ilic.so belong-'d to tlie crown till sold in 1762, to a nicrclKiiit of the Jiaiiic of Ulstariz, for 7,410,000 reals, Taiuc ,^8.^,3{j'2 10s. sterling. Their annual euiisiimption is 21,0001b. of silk, 4000 mans of silver, and (iO of gold, hating 3.JC looms, and about I4.'>8 workmen, rliictly Spaniards. Tliev make annually .oSjOUO varrs of gold ami silver luccj .')(i(),uOO varrs of ribbands, 5000 pairs of silk st.itkiiigj, 3'2,OLO varrs of tafl'ety, 8'200 vans of velvets and velvcrets, U'MO varrs of i;olU and silver stiill's, uouu rarrs of velverets mixed vvidisilk, 10,50" varrs of damask, •fcihbifs, kc. exclusive of i^old and silver t\\ ist biitton^i, hand. ker« biefs, ami otlier li'ss articl. s. The greatest cncourage- meni is ;;ivi"g to t!ic rai'in^ of mulberry trees for the silk worm:); many plants of vvliii;h have been distributed by the proprietor, at iiij cvii expoace, to all the Tillages round hiitt. begins: Sta. Olalla is the first village in iki kingdom of Seville, it being it dismal and it,l lancholy journey of ten hours over these drem I hills to Castel Blanco, with the stme plants 11 at Almaden, to which may be added the wiMl germander, Considerable efforts have bttil made to improve the waste lands of tbii botiJ Sierra, and give a new face to the country, roi| which purpose foreigners have been invited ul settle there, and great exertions have taken plaMi for some years past. In 1767, eleven town^gil five villages were already formed in the Sieml Morena, as well as four towns and fifteen i\\\ lages in that part which divides the kingdom ofl Cordova and Seville, making all togetiier 24^1 families, consisting of 10490 persons, of \vi|j(||I S17.') were labourers, and 'i'iil? mechiuiics, eiJ elusive of journeymen and servants. Tliev iimej built twenty-four parish churches and ('liiinelJ ^2(K) houses, and fifteen inns, planted 2()0.(j olive trees, above half a million of miilberrJ trees, and as much more of various kinds of frniJ trees, elm, vine, &o. their harvests consi^iJ chiefly of wheat, barley, peas, antl beans, proJ during one year with another five hundred tlioii.r sand fanep;(is; the vines begin to prosper, aw arc expected to become a considerable objetJ and they have moreover established manv brmichei of silk and woolhiU manufiicture. After travers-iiig the Sierra Morena it is no] small relief to enter the extensive and fertile plaia of Seville, which leads to that capital titv, an ihakes some amends to the traveller for the seen of desolation he has passed. Going thioiigh beautiful country for three days, you come tol Anlequera, situated on a hill at a letigue (ii^taiicJ They have remarkable proressioi-.s bore at K.ister. iviiij go by the name of moiii/asde Tulaicra. when all tin- (oiinir»| people assemble and form a procession with .i;arl.imls oil ilowers, each division guided by a person carr^ini; a :< covered with flowers at top, and making an ollerin;; ofih.'i to the I5lessed NTrgin, according to the ciistu:;i of tJ I'agans, who used to do the sam« tu their i^'ods; p.ilaJ the difliciiKy of abolishing these ceremonies, sivs \U Antonio I'onz, has engaged the clergy to convert lliii;iiii obsequious rites to the IJIessed A'irgin, as the cIhki!! liJ wisely done with other heathenish customs eqii.ili) iliiuull to eradica'i', yiiijc ilc Esjicna, tom.T.Matliiil, 177!'. Two leai^nes frOm Talavera y wn.>tliing uway thut liy;ht cout of l»ilh which they are so sparingly provided. letf art' produced those excellent and remarkable pota- |pei'iiliar tu tin* district, und in so great esteem in other lol'Spain: they are equally an American piodiictiun, |i!;h different from th .• rt>le about a league infircuit, and twothousund leet lii^ii, without the l*agt mixture of any otla-r utoneor earth, tlic uurble appearing; in muny placeskwhere ueitlier Btanca. T his is what is properly called Cam Gat. Near the Torre de ias Guardat there i, bed of jasper of a white ground veined wiihr{j and further on, near the Torre de Neste, aloi rock is seen almost covered with a stratum white cornelian In the centre of this promoiJ tory there are four hilh near to each « ther, call vhe Sacristan, the Two Friers, the Captain 5, the White Mountain, but nothing reir.drkaiilf] to bo observed from their outward appearanci The other side of the promontory, after pajjji these four hills, is called El Puerto de la PIqI where the Moorish Corsairs lie' lurking for Sp nish vessels to intercept them, and carry flii crews into dire captivity. There is a rockn this Puerto, which extends towards the sea, am called El Monte delasGuHrdos, where they 63J amethysts, but still more abundantly inastnl tum of quartz of very difficult access, l)eingiii| precipice twenty feet high. The trueametliTi resembles a pyramid reversed, while the roti crystal has. six faces, and is larger at bottoi than at top. In going from Granada to Andalusia, thefini stage is at L:).xa, ajourney often hours, thronjl that beautiful plain called La Vega de Grmck and then ascending a mountain, through aoJ ther cultivated vale Loxa is a middliug tun^ pleasantly situated on a high hill of conglu^ nated stone, which forms a kind of bmhmt Eudding-stone, in the centre of olive groui aving plenty of fruit, notwithsti nding itse vated, cold, and dry situation. From Loxa to the westward, the countryij fertile, producing wheat and barley, iiial soil well furnished with oak. The soilottb hills seer.vs to proceed from the deconipositionil former rocks, many of which appear in broki lumps, intermixed with the arable land. .^Ii| meda is the first town in the kingdom ofSeviH a few corn fields arc seen in the low lauds bif in general the western boundaries of GruQadai made up of steep rocks and craggy mountai« Ihe Solano winds prevail much here, anddoj great deal of mischief, destroying tlie harvetlj if they blow early in the seasonf- The country is extremely pleasant to Hern till tlie wind, rain, nor any ol' tl cm cauges which deittof I hardcKt rockt, have ytt made the least impression, t The country people are fond of tcbacco, and 1 they have near tliem those txcelleot wii a of MoIa,'» > X«il OTl^rON'S TRAVELS THUOUGH SPAIN. 037 tha white and rei!an(U i: i I ^^% »i! 11 ''J( ■I ■ S38 DILLON'S TRAVELS THROUGH SPAIN. islands, as M'ell as at tlie island of Madeira. Modern writers have fully described the exten- sive commerce, affluence, and hospitality of the citizens of Cadiz ; they are badly supplied with water, and their flesh market is indifferent, but the bay affords them a variety of excellent fish. Port St. Mary is a large and handsome city, on the north side of the bay, from whence it is a journey of three leagues to the city of Xerez, remarkable for its excellent wine so well known hy the TMLme of Sherry, Medina Sidonia is six leagues from Xerez, then the city of Arcos, seated on a craggy rock, at the foot of which runs the river Guadalete; a route of ten hours through a stony country leads to the village of Algodonalcs lying under a high mountain pierced through from east to west. The city of Rondaissix leagues from Algo- donales, on a very high situation, it being a continual ascent from Xerez, which continues as far as Gibraltar : the country about Konda is remarkably fertile, and supplies Cadiz with all !kinds of fruit and vegetables, the soil is oj a reddish colour with pebble, ^nd resists the heat of the fire, for which reason it is much used in furnaces for fusing iron*. The district of Honda furnishes the fierce T)ull, the ravenous wolf, and other noxious ani- mals ; its rocks serve as a retreat for the eagle, the osprey, and kite ; yet notwithstanding such numerous enemies, its soil makes ample amends by its unbounded fertility. The Sierra Vermeja is a range of hills which runs westwardiy towards Malaga, and affords a singular curiosity; for though they run parallel, and so close that their bases join, yet one is red and the other is white ; snow will not remain on the highest, while it constantly covers the otlier. The waters of the white hill are inarliul and vitriolic ; those of the red sulphureous, al- kaline, and with a strong smell like tho^ie of Cotterets in France. Near this place is tht last village on the Carthagcna side. • Amongst other curiosities with which the country of Roii>la abound*, that little animal culled the (jennet is one of the most extraordinary, and not to be found in any other part nf £uro(«> except Turkey. It is smaller than the civet, nus a long body, short legs, a sharp snout, and a sleniler head; under its tail there is a long ba;;, wliich emits a per- fume. Its fur is soft and glossy, of an ash colour ntarked with black spots, which unite upon the buck and form stripes which run longitudinally from the neck backward, with «i long toil diversified with riDglets of black and white : Near Lorca there are two ancient minej lead and copper, ana in the Sierra towards .1, sea near Carthagena, the village of Almazai is famous for its fine red earth without any mj ture of sand, and is a princi( al ingredient mi in Spanish snuff, to give it that fine colour ai softness to the hand, and to fix its volatility It is sometimes called after the name of the v? lage, but more commonly almagre, and isjii;, wise used in the glasshouse of St. Ildefonsoih itead of tripoli, to give the last polish toirW as others use oolcothar of vitriol^ the caput ^i turn, or resitlue left at the bottom of tbevfj! after the distillation of vitriol. Near Alniazam the remains of a silver mine are to be seeiLwhi, in former times is reported tohaveyieldeilm quantities of silver. A plain of six lea^m with reddish soil, like the neighbouring''lii! leads to Carthagena, and is so fertile in coi in rainy seasons, that it produces sixty for out' but this seldom happens, as the country isf, quently scorched up, and they suffer fn droughts; however their plentiful harvest ba.'itla makes them ample amends, rcquiri little water, and being in great demand inEiif land, Ireland, and France, for making crysti glass, hard soap, and for bleaching. Besidi these advantages, the kingdoms of Granadaai Murcia, yield together annually 700,00011 weight of raw silk, which is now totally con. sumed in the manufactories of Spain. Tlii make cables in the arsenal of Carthagena wi hemp from the kingdom of Arragon, the use which was introduced under the direction admiral Don Jorge Juan, and they iniaj>i_ them to be equal in goodness to any iulport^'i from abroadf. In going from Carthagena to Alicant, v.. cross the rich vale of Murcia, covered with iiml. berry trees, and pass through a delightful coui try to Orihuela and Elche, remarkable forii numerous groves of palm trees, the branches which are a lucrative article of trade. Tliefet- the fur was formerly in esteem, but of late has been cocJ terfeited b) tinging grey rabbit skins with black spots, 2 is now out of fashion. ] t Amongst the stone at the bottom of the harbour, J fishermen bring up the Phoiades, which a few yi irs ijl were not known there, the people not suspwliiij; tin could subsist iu the centre of these rock p. Tiie red and yellow are h'yacitrthfi. \ Thtrt! are eight or ten different «ort» of plants in tbn 'ot. a. No. xcii. rising out of a forest of mulberry-trees, which bring an immense wealth to its citizens, I shall not enter into a detail of tl>e manifald branches of cultivation in theenrrronsof Valen- cia, where nature always smiles, and where ♦^Ue plaiaa of Alicant, whose ashes serve for making; glatiB and soap : but tht bmriHu \% the principal and beat lort : the me- thod «f making it is well deacribed in Millar's Gardoner's Dictionary, and is much the same as u»ed in (he North of Gnuptaud lu burning kvlpi. An acre n»ay give about a ton. 4 11 • cry U W 5i ■ I' I .''!(*■ !■►■: i' I- ! I i I k 310 DILLON'S TRAVELS THROUGH SPAIV. veryaliis constantly embalnittl wilh the fragrant perfume of an infinite number of fruit trees and odoriferous herbs. The eedrats are so lars^e as sometimes to m eiyh more than six pounds, u hen the tree that produced them isnotabove two or three feet in height: the grapes are the most ;inable,witli bundles sometimes four- teen pounds weight, and every grape as lar^^e as a nutmeg. The grapes of Valencia and Grenada liave the preferiMice to all others in Spain. They cannot, it is true, from their distance, be sent fresh to tngland like those of Portugal, but they ship oft' large quantities of raisins at .Malaga*. Tlie raisins of /he sun, an thvy arc called, are still more delicate, having the stalk half cut through while the bunch remains suspended on the vine, and partakes of the heat of the sun, as the sap cannot penetrate after they are dried ; they are packed up in boxes. This is the method used in Gramatla, "which makes them more luscious and delicate, and justly gives the preference to the Malaga raisins. There is a pleasant village about two leagues from Valencia, consisting of four streets inhabit- ed chiefly by potters, who make a pretty earthen ■ware of a copper colour with gilding, that serves the country people both for ornament and use, it is made of an agillaceous earth, very similar in * They prepare them in Vuleiicia with the lixivium of seeds whose salt augments the heat of the water in boiling. The grape is dipped for a moment in this lixivium, when the skin burets on every side, and the juice gushing out candies in the air, after which the bunches are hung to dry in the sun. The cold weather afterwards perfects this crystalliza- tion, 80 that when they get to England, they become so many cakes of sugar, intinitely better than when first ship- ped oft'. t This earthen ware is very g'ossy, and remarkably cheap, but is far from being the best ware in Valencia ; another manufacture has been lately set up at Aleora, hy the count de Aranda, a grandee of Spain, which for the fine- ness of the clay might vie with other manufactures of the kind, were its varnish less liable to crack and scale oft'. It goes by the name of Count Aranda's ware, and is sold at Madrid. § The following sketch exhibits the value of the principal products of Valencia. £ Sterling. Silk crop annually about 1, 500,0001b. of 12 ounces, which sells on the spot at a price equal to 10». - - - - 750,000 400,0001b. weight English, or 20,000 ton of rice for home consumption, at 15«, per ewt. - 300,000 lbs. For exportation $, d. ISO.OOO Barilla - • at 10 6 > 75,000 80,000 Raisins -" - 7 6 - 30,000 <|uality and colour to that of Valencia, inwl,; virgin mercury is found f. It is an agreeable to urof five leagues f,|j V^^Iencia to Morviedro, famous for the ivmJ of the ancient .St'liiccin«hiclij L's cxceliontlj Its roots maL t are 3oughtaftj a very line ik nd bears tmit] luctioii of natal is kingdom^ t »iiey, Tlax, sugi , unci plants, prj ight over l,i; £ - 100,^ Xl,31i| ecdg, cummin i lurf^e quantiljofl icntioiit'd ill tliiif iible article. ls|| Mr. Swiiibiirnf, Dttkcs the anmuil 8, at four of it sells m M 4,00«, - 2,000, - 300, - 1,400, - 1,350, sag lire Siil, y,9ii, ty pence steilinil . DILLON'S TRAVELS THROUGH SPAIN. 3H duel L-jltogether near ten millions of dollars/>er r J feu' cities enjoy a more temperate air, lilve more beautiful environs. The Alameda, ublic walk, is one of the most pleasing in the city of Barcelona is generally reckoned ■ of the most agreeable places in Spain. Its _^nt situation, its commerce, with the ac- Stvandindustry of its iniiabitauts, contribute Biiike it a place of splendour and affluence. [his city the traveller will find a curious ca- (tofnatural history belonging to a private fcen, Ml- Salvador, an eminent r -"ithecary, , shews bis collection to strangCio with the iiost urbanity. he first stage from Barcelona leads to the »nof Martorel, at the conflux at the rivers Land Lobregat; here you are sensibly struck 1 the tremendous appearance of thegrand and fcmn mountain of Montserrat, impressing on [mind the most exalted ideas, in viewing this liderful effort of nature. You seem quite MO it, but have still three hours, in the usual Jthod of travelling in Spain, to approach its lis, and as many more after to climb up to its \m\„ There is a famous bridge over the bregat at Martorel, witli an arch at its toot, fiartorel is a large town, replete with indus- lus inhabitants, all employed and constantly Wk; the women in making black lace, and i men in various useful itid laborious occu- jons; a little further on, at the village of Espa- tuara, tliereis a manufactory of cloth, which fntains numbers of families ; the same spirit of bur and apnlication is universal every where Catalonia; but we now draw near to the lofty bntain of Montserrat, the most singular per- ls in the world for its appearance, composi- k and productions ; us much the admiration Ihe naturalist, as revered by the natives in |eral, fiom the renov/n of its sanctuary, £i- I for miracles and the extraordinary favours Dted by our lady of Montserrat to its nume- I votaries. [■he whole extent of this mountain may be at eight league* in circumference, its chief Jerials consisting of round limestone, firmly glutinated with a yellow calcareous earth and jd, not unlike the Brechia or pudding-stone of ppo, only that the grain is coarser and the pes larger than that of the Levant, >vith a fur- theradditionofround white quartz streaked with red, as well as touchstone, all cemented together, forming one perfect solid nia^s, and according to the natural bitumen which united till thf-c toge- ther, htis occasionally given way in tlie course of fleeting years, various torrents of rain water have rolled down and washed away tlic earth, the re- sult of their decomposition, and Ikivp s;jlit the mountain into an infinite variety of sli;i])i s und singular appearances, forming in some |)lt.^ ■■'. n i.Ml'i m ^'M 'hi S42 DILLON'S TRAVFLS THROUOH SPAIN. lorts of trees, shrubs, and plants that shoot up Bpontancously, gracing thi't hoary and venerable pile. The (iircction of this great mountain is from east to west. It is impossible to view this amazing mountain without the utmost admira- tion ; its name has been extended to one of the Ikitisli islands in the West Indies, and its fame is universal : its prodigious clefts imprejj n mind with such wonder, that it has given to the opinion in common with Gaetu in ItaiJ that these tremendous rocks were suddJj rent in this manner when our Saviour .»avtJ the ghost on the cross, when "7'heeartl] f/uake, and the rocks rent." St. Afatth, xxviii CHAPTER X. lielurn to Valencia and Castile — Mine of Sal Gcmat .Wngraifilla — Source of the River Guidt — Mnicof Antinwnij near Sutita Cruz dc Mudda in La Alancha. IN going from Barcelona towardsValencia you cross a fine bridge, lately built, over the Lobrcgat at Molino del Ilei; further on, ano- ther bridge over a deep valley has been at- tempted with a row of arches at an immense e.xpence, the foundation has given way, and a long time must pass before it is completed. The new road was finished in 1778, as far as Villa Franca de Panades. The country is hilly and aft'ortJs a variety of rural prospects. The ancient city cf Tarragona stands near the sea, on an eminence that commands a fine prospect over a beautiful vale. The city exhi- uits several rentains of Roman antiquities and inscriptions. Proceeding from Tarragona the next town is Reus, a commercial place, which of late years has greatly increased In build- ings and population. Here the merchants of Barcelona liave their factors and warehouses, and ship off their wines and. brandies as the ships come to an anchor in the road of Salo, about three miles from Reus. Catalonia fur- ii; * The Bi.igulnr rock of Gaeta in the kiiigdom of Naples, but an amazing <-li-l't from the top to bottom, and 'm totally rent asunder, wh'i.'ii they tell you happened at the death of our Saviour ; a lur^jc block of marble has follen in between, on wliich they haVe built a little chapel, dedicated to the Trinity, and ships pawing near aalute it; thitt place is held in (;reat veneration, particularly in Spain; during the wars in Italy Lm Santimma Triiiidod |>le to posterity, TM scri^tion on his tomb in the church of Poblet ijiuJulli and is said to be of the duke's own compoKitioii, Hie jaeet Ex». Dom PhilipHu WarUm, Angki, Marehio et Comet da WartoH, JVarchio Iklarhursiit cti la^h RatAeasrem, Vicecamet de Winchester, Barn (it li Ion Equei Sti. Georgii atia* de In Geratera, ubiit inl £ccfesia Catholkw iRomanw Povuleti, die 3 1 il/oii, I7« DILLON'S TRAVELS THROUGH SPAIN. 543 ,jj towards Castile; the ground continues r gflually as far as the chahi of hills that lie §iat kingdom from La Mancha, with a I steep ascent at the Puerto de Bunol. The Int still continues to Villagorda, through a U country, broke up every where by gullies wioned by torrents that gush from the moun- l On the highest of them there is a quarry ^ev marble, veined with red ; the river Ca- Iruns at its foot. At its summit there is a Jiivcr GudJKt^^- ly spring, where they make salt with a boil- heat. It is a constant descent from these hills jviiiageof Mingranilla: halfaleague from yjllatre^there is a district of limy soil, with hiflocks about half a league in circumfe- e having below this bed of lime, asolid mine jlgeiii, equal to thesupferincumb^nt stratum; eptli is not known, for when the excavations led three hundred feet, .it l)ecome8 very ex- live to extract the salt ; the mines frequently tvay> and fills with watei*, which obliges „to abandon the sl^aft and work another near le whole country being an enormous body of soineliines mixed with alimy substance, and ithers pure or reddish, mostly crystaline. lie ground has been perceptibly carrietl a^vay [torrents that have discovered the mine, for iblesantl hyacinths are dispersed in the gullies icliare now seen firmly conglutinated in the tbrming hard rock, yet leaving no doubt icir having fallen at some period, from the by what may be observed on tlieir summit. roiii hence an easy descent, for about four n, leads into the extensive plains of La icha, thos<; regions of fancy which Cervantes rendered immortal. They have plentiful s of saffron at San Clemente, and the best grows in La Mancha. The saff^ion remains or five years in the ground, producing an- ly flowers ; then the roots are taken up and isplaiited,' and the soil becomes excellent for but twenty years must pass before any n is cultivated again. Mancha prod uces great quantities of laven- cotton, said to be the same with the famous |Profe«sor Link, speaking of the river Guadiana, says, low beautit'ul would the banks of the Guudiana bi-, were } but weTI cultivated ! But the destructive ravages of the prenverted every thing into a naked coroiuon, which \ lira not unpleasant, but at length fatigues the eye. jidi ii situatH very near the banks of the Guudiaun, loi.lI. No. XCll. moxa from China, imported constantly by the English and Dutch; while the Spaniards, if this be the same plant, have it at home and kno\r nothing of the matter. The greatest part of La Mancha may be con- sidered as one continued plain so far as the eye' can extend without a single tree; as the villages are large, and the churches have lofty steeples, they make a good 6gure at a distance, but when you draw near, their mud walls with many houses m ruins convey quite a diflfisrent idea. The in- habitants, for want of wood, burn thyme, south- emMrodd, and worinwoodj and though they have few springs they console themselves with drink- ing good wine: when one considers their manner of living in these silent villages, added to their natural simplicity, they seem to have lost little of their originalcharacter. At Socuellanos they get water about two or tijnee feet from the sur* face; but at Tomilloso, four ieagues further, thfe wells are a hundred feet deep, f'roril hence it is an hour's journey to Luegar-nuevt) on the banks of the famous Guadiana, and only three leagues from its source; there are many lakes hereabouts which communicate with each other, produced b^ spiings whose wafers form a river, which, havmg run for some leagues, disappears in the meadows near Alcazar de San Juan. In summer this river is trifling, but in winter it is necessary to go over the bridge at Villarta. The river disappearing there, shews itself again a few leagues off, in other lakes called i\jos de Guadiana, "The eyes of Guadiana;" from whence the proverbial expression of « bridge where many herds of cattle are constantly gra- zing. On that part called The iSrid^e, they have sunk wells for travellers and cattle, and always find water. When the Guadiana issues out of the lakes, it turns several mills, is a hun- dred feet broad, and about four in depth. It S asses afterwards by Calatrava, Ciudad Ileal, ledelliu, Merida, Radajoz, and Ayamonte, where it enters the ocean, dividing Spain and Portugal*. Before I quit the territory of La Mancha, whose being an open town of modorate size, full of small misera- ble houses like Truxillo, and, like that place, shews traces of having once been more thriving'. The ruins here render this place remarkable : the reiuums of u Roman aqueduct are still seen, and of a wall descrihiHg a circle in the oiien fields; part of both are still in good [ncstrvatioti, und they 4 S gviatlj- tr I i u % » \ ll A^i iti%u. I "I })1 ,.«' I«*l ¥ ,11';: i > > ; fy "t • I ^1 ii 3U DILLON'S TRAVELS THROUGH SPAIN. whose fame will never perish so long as wit and humour remain, I must once more investigate the bowels of the earth, and speak of a mine of anti- mony near Santa Cruz de Mudela, at the toot of the Xierro Moretia, which, since 177 4. has heen successfully worked by Don AntonioSancha, an eminent printer at Madrid, who, after having been at a considerable expence, now gets lumps of rcgulus of antimony of an enormous size, one weighing a hundred and fifty arrobas, and many of twenty or thirty, the smallest of four or five, Jreatly enliven thit open and chearful country. At Merida he coDtinues) wi.- patted the Guadiana over a haud«ome stone bridKe. Over a few open pastures, at the foot of the last granite mountain, we came to a market town called Lobon ; which, with its ruined castle, is situated on tome hills at a small distance from the river, and concealed amid olive trees. The Guadiana winds along fertile but uncul- tivated plains. Between Merida and mdajox, on the plain irhich Iwrders on the Guadiana, is another small towA full of small wretched houses, and called in the mope Talo- vera la Rctl» but in the •• Guide dcs Couriers" Talavera for which he has considerable demand- |»J established a manufacture of reguht of mony, and has wrought up above six hui! arrobas, so white and chrystaiine, astoL like silver, being superior to that of FrancJ Hungary; it is a valuable article in diy manufactures, particularly amon;rees, as the power of the crowti ihcr6u»ed, and these officers perhaps giving occasion to some disturburtk^e^, judges were appointed by the crown, at tirst in the grMt towns, and then in the aniall, aud even in great viltttfrett. 1 hcse judges were required to have studied at somo Portu- gueze university, and were called jvhet de /vra. All civil causes are in the first instance brought liefore ihbm, atid in Binalt places they also have cognisancte ofcriminftl procet^eii ; for which, in the larger towns, a juiz de crime is separately appointed. Portugul is divided both into provinces and districts, which lust are commonly called eomarftis, or corregimntoa ; in the chief town of which ib a cortr^d«^, before whom civil and criminal piocesses are brought lii the •second instance. He has aUo the snperintendunce of the jtiizes de fora, whom they can sUsjiertd from their office, if the corregimento d«( nds originally iVom the crdwrt it is (ailed eorreii-av, but if from donalarios, it is called omidori liragmi?fc is (itill v^ oavidoriik, thi dukes Pyrenees, that he was a true knight, acconli to the ancient sense of that phrase. " Tlie Portugueze troops are far from bad ■ I know regimentsthat exercise and fireextremd well, even when compared with the troops of ly various nations I have f ^^en reviewed. It canu however, be denied that the officers arenott, spected as they deserve in a country which In, J long kept its ground by its military energy, \ is true, commandants of fortresses who reside] Lisbon and have at most seen their forts onceiJ their lives, and generals who arc neve; wiif their regiments, do not much contribute tot improvement. The uniform of the Portugueze infantrvaii cavalry is dark blue : that of the liussais lijrU blue; the marines green; and the sailors i dressed like the English. Out the blue or j, cloth breeches of many of the regiments, and tij black Manchester breeches of tne Ofi'icers,! an utiplfcasing appearince. Generals and niji officers wear a suit of scarlet richly enibroiden, with gold. The cavalry, like that of Spain, rii stallions, and their horses are in better conditlM They are not bad ridiers, but their utiifonnsl beconle them. The soldiers are but pooi ly m a private receives two vinttfitls, or forty about two-pence strrlhtg) ; from which lUiti^ thing is deducted for clothlngt. But enoUgh of th« Povttig(ie:te military. of Bra)pn» he\af( the original dOnaMri^; artd ainoit| the oovidorias dttpvwl on royitl house*, , the distia):tiM i tween inose two kinds of corregtmentos is only attndiM in official )tApefs, not Is the word ontiiior eveV ukjI common lan^uttgf, bat corre^edot-, and Ih oliiciuh torregedor oatillor. The seat of tite prbvedbr is slsol .chieftown of the eomarvO i^ but lie is totally itide|xndt^ the Corregedor, and Tias not oiil^ the suueriiilciidtiuij the«iWcuiion nf Wills, guardiaiishi|)8, &c. but of the nf revenue*. in tht district. Under Miti als«^,'in ihc grMteJ as to what regards the formtr, rs » jAit do* 9rfi«n\ \»(\^e for orphans, from whom, appeals lie to thepn ihexe i\rc tlie nioiit ikbpoirtunt judicial officers in thtc rtf prnvintw, urid^^ ^hotti ife a «alriitt)r of inrerior o 4iu<;li as o/enldet, vet&aion, IneiHklUM, «k4 <^'m'<'- t This is fxtremely ipis^raWe pof, tn ijadeur a i as Portugal, particularly at Lisbut. , Bread, s sinl and bitd wine, afe the cbiistdni feiS'iliily feoU of tijebt i who seldom ur never tuste toirtt^i^m^clltble^. In theji 1798 inAhy yuong. men kti^ |Ht«ld, ttlid tiiatij of then roents increa^sfl by five bw^Mked tn«n ; they w«re torn f the fiehls and kidnapppcl ev«ry where, aud ^be tovem promised tewttrcis n iftk jilizcs tte forii, who sliould i them nio>>t recruits. In consequence of thi*, whole, tio of considerable Uiigtn were often met travillingi riiiml LINK'S TRAVFL8 IN PORTUGAL. 347 nil on wbicli Elvai stands is formed of a granite (iiling 0*" '*^'** quartr, felspar, and mica, J in loroe parts containing steatite. On the clivitr> this granite is covered with a whitish, ,« foliated, lime stone, in which are in- ipeMed sulphurous pyrites and fahlerz. The .Jution here is similarto that of Spain. We ^every where the beautiful antirrhinum ame- Wtiwm, first described in Laroark's Encyclo- rdia; snd the ' beautiful iris alata, which we id already seen near Badajoz. The beautiful conntry round Elvas soon de- j (he traveller. Most of the tdwns in Por- Lil lie like islands in the midst of a desert sea. Rot far from Elvas we climbed a naked, barren ountain, where we saw a few sinele houses, ut no villages. Farther on, toward the venda i) do senhorjitrado, the mountains are cover- with cist"" ladaniferus, and consist of slate, ^ith veins of quartz. This slate, which is ex- tmely common in Portugal, is often clearly a lodstone, and not unfrequently bears traces of jorigiit from gr^tiitej and grains of mica and Uipar; sometimes it approximates to clay-slate, bd chaii{;;e8 whoHy jnto that substance. It broM gentle ( not lofty ) hills, which often show Ls of containing ore*. The venda is a very small and miserable house, I a wretched country, and, indeed, a venda may hgeneral be expected to be surrounded by a kind jf desert. Beyond this spot we came to a wood If cork-trees, which is seldom seen iu the middle Spain. Towards Estremoz, which is seven iguesf from Elvas, tlM country becomes more leisant, is better cultivated, and bears more livMrees, The mountains rise again, aud a binlnals with thuir hands bound. It was painfur to behold icsc unfortunate ])cople, who perhaps conid live happily lid comfortably at homt un the fruit of their labour, now jtottglit by force to ttartc in the (ouos. At Lisbon I hare tften been solicited in an cTcniug for charity hymen among ft Koard at the barrar1(S of the rbgiment of Gomez Freire, Iho had (he greatest claim to my compassion. But can ■Jinan biaino the natiyes of a country for ihuaning mill- iry srrriro under such circumstances ? * Tint slate mountains have always an and barren ap- jnraiicu; and are usually, in the southern purls of Por. Lai, corircd with cistus ladaniferus, a plant, without jeing acquainted with which, it is impossible to form an Utquatc idea of the appearance of these parts. It is about Bur, and sometimes six, feet high, the leiivrs have nearly Mform of those of the oleander, arc of a tihiiiing dark Ireen, and not deciduous in winter; a very sweut-smclling pint covert the young buds aud leaves, aud (Utruses, parti- Vol. II. No. XCIII. whiter, or even a blacker, foliaceous limestone, which produces a very good marble, is seen in rocks in large quantities. Estremoz is a small fortified town, and pra^a de armaa, which has therefore a governor, but belongs to the corregimento of Evora. The number of inhabitants may amount to six thousand at the utmost. It is an ill-built place, but in the middle has a larf^e cheerful square. There is a castle on an eminence, and the town hus alici some out-worlu. In other respects it has been a considerable phice, as the number of religious houses shews, there being five in the town, and a sixth in the neighbourhood. There are a hospital and a casade misericordia in almost every considerable town in Portugal ; but generally in such a state that they are of very little uhc. The country, particularly on the side toward Linbon, is very pleasant, and well i:ultivated. Three leagues from Estremoz we came to an inn called A venda do duque, where however no duke could lodge. We did not perceive any cultivated lands till within a league of Arrayolos, an open villa with about two thousand inhabitants, a large monastery in which reside the canons of St. John the Evangelist, and a monastery of Franciscans. This place is six leagues from Estremoz, yet not a village is seen throughout that distance, nor any but single houses. The soil is sometimes granite in masses, sometimes slaty granite. From Arrayolos the road lay through Monte- mor o novo, which is three leagues farther, over naked mountains, and then through a cultivated vale. After this we ascend high granite inoun- tiiius covered first with evergreen oaks, and then cularly in the evening, a very pleasant fragrance that sccmv to fill the air. These plants do not form a very close bnsh ; but stand so close together, that it is difficult to forco through them, aud thus crump the growth of every other plant. Hence it is Tory rare to find any beneillh them. The flowers arc uncommonly beautiful; but scarcely liloHr before they fall ofT. Kach of the petals is almost thro9 inches long by two broad, pure white, and some way in on the under side have a durk purplc.rcd s])ot, resenibliug'a drop. The whole plant is also uncom only beautiful ; btU its uniformity, auil the lonely desert forms, render it at length cJitrt'inely irksome. It serve- 'or nothing but fuel anil rharcoiil; though, were this coiiii>ry populous and iu. dustrious, tho gum perhaps might be <>:npl(>\t>d in rarious ways. + The Portugneso league is va ious in difleront prnvinres, but always exceeds the Spanish, wliidi is throe thousand rods ur fathoiuj^. with lllfr'i :^m mm u 348 LINK'S THAVRLS IN PORTUGAT.. with myrtles. The myrtle ia not here a beautiful ihrub, fur where it covers a large tract uf ground its growth is diininuti' >i and ugljr. It is only beautiful by th^ side of brooks, where it grows taller, and is extremely charming, when covered with its beautiful white flowers. Toward Montcmor o novo the country again becomes more cultivated. This open place, or villa, is gay and lively> containing above four thousand inhabitants, four religious houses, and being very pleasantly situated on fertile granite hills. On this side we approached the town by a large and beautiful meadow; to the left we saw on a high hill an old ruined castle; and on the other side, toward Lisbon, man^^ gardens, followed by • ir woods of ever-green oaks; a tree T»hicl| stitutes the riches of the neighbourino- com,* and atfords food to a great number of nicii. acorns are roasted for use, and have bynonui, an unpleasant flavour, but are only consume?! the poor. No attention is bestowed on the cul a vation of this tree, buttiti propagation is lef^ tirely to nature The wood is reddish, soS, and good, but is chiefly used by cart-w'rigy the charcoal is also much valued. j The granite mountains Continue a leaguebeyoj Montemor, and then lose themselves in a pO which extends to the banks of the Tagus, L every where covered with sand and ratcliil. >U *•»!■/ .■*i VMtir%iUt',,»i,t; . ^' >■■.■, ■ ii Alii ',.' I ^iii' t. .-, _. .... :'-',n ■'. 'AClSi .T -'i ■ • 'I ':'ru''> .; j.i.ov A .fl«v .:■•••.: SECTION II. .&r, IVIl.! 1;, t_. ,. . : ,,~ Heaths in the Provinee of Alemtijo — General licmarks on that Province. THE province of Alemtejo derives its name from Mem, beyond ; and Tank of t|ie ,i;iver, where. It a niarM-town calje^ A^ea Gajle^a, it is Lai to embark for Lis^tOAi. ' On as^ epiine^icc, a uLue from Aldea Galtegai is a chnrjph, dedicated to Aossa scnhora da Atalaya (our lad v of the jjjl,,towcr),.4o which the negroes i a Lisbon knnually make t\ pilgrimage, and a great con- kourse of people go there to see thU bl^ck pro- Anlonio Ilenriques de Silveira sa,y», " Alenitejo i the least populous province of Portugal ; tor bough tbirty-six leagues long, and nearly as broad, it contains only four cities, one hundred jid five towns (villas), three hundred and fifty- tight parishes, and about tbrco hundred thousand jababitauts *. The towps are very populous, fomparativcly more so than the, rest of PoftugAl; W there is a scarcity of villages, which gene- allv coutribute most to cultivation, many of the loliabilants of towns leading idle lives. One Liise of the thin population of this province kriscs from its having always been the theatre of jilt between Spain and PortugaJ<. It also con- aiiis a great number of fortresses, maintains ten gimeiit# of jvJl.VnU'y* and four of cavalry, •bich are constaiitly recruited there, and form a fourth part of the military establishment of the irliule country. Every town and village in the broviuce, except these fortresses, now contain \tvict iniiiibitants than in the beginning of the Hit ceutiiry, and in all of them are empty houses. " The best means of improving this province KHuld be that the crown should establish small tillages of about twenty houses, or grant per- nissiuu to private perst^ns to form su^h estab|ish- nents, granting them the manorial rights and privileges. " To this proposal it is objected, first, that jlnere is a scarcity of water; hut thjs is. by no aeans universal, and n)^ght be obviatcd.by sink- n^ wells, as is already practised in many places Kutbis province:, secondly,, that the sojl is.too ba(|^ |)ut wherever it will afford pasture for cattle, - |Cflrp ,inay, be produced, at least rye and even naize, especially on the banks or the rivers: ... :. i.j ; *. ■^*'*"''''"i» ^♦' **•*' 1**' '"** thirdly, that the . population is too scanty; but the province of Minho is so populous that many of its inhabitafit^ anpual.|yjnigrate into other provinces ; how easy tl^crf^fore w^ould it be to employ, those men in such establishments : fourth- ly, that the quantity of cultivation would not be increased if these men vyere settled on lands already cultivated ; but if these lands were divided into snia)l,l .^ots or parcels, the soil being nei\rer their habitations would be better manured and cultivated, and would not be suffered to liie Callow .two following years, being sown only, once in three years,, as is now practised, but would be sown during ^|ie two ycqirs, and fallow- ed the third: fifthly, that no ope, w:ouM bft willing to (Qmbar|( tbp capjtal r£|quisite for esta- blishing such viOages; but so . much money is spent in pursuits q\ luxury and distinction, that it cannot be doubted tliat many would be willing thus to employ some part ojf their money in pur- chasing the title of lord of a village. To raise a company of cavalry costs eigh^ thousand crusades, in consideratiqn of wfiich the king grants a cap- tain's patent (or commission), and yet when it was known that five companies were to be raised' in Algarvia no Ic^s than one hundred and fifty- four candidate^ offered. " f he lan^s in Alemtejo are far from bein^ well .cultivated. In that, province are three kinds of soil,; fruitful black so^d fat earth is found in the red clay of Elvas, Campomayor,. Oliven^a, Fronteira, Estremoz, Beja, andSerpa; a lighter earth mixed with a little sand forms the soil round Evora and Arrayolos, where the bad kinds of wheat, barley, and ryesucceed very well, and cork trees and evergreen oaks also grow; and a sandy barren soil forms the heaths of Can- Uiriiilio, Pontc de Sur, Monte Argil, Taiuvs and Vcndas JVbvas, a tract of country about thir,ty leagues in circumference. They were once full of cork-trees, but these have been sold to the charcoal-burners, and thus the woods Lave- been destroyed, excepting at a distance from the rivers. These heaths serve only as pasture for goats, and yet at a depth beneath the surface '"'es. a solid stratum of clay, which might be brciight up by the plough, and the soil thereby rendered better for cqlttvation. More pines also should be planted, and defended iiom goats, thougU not in the neighbourhood of the roads on account of rubbers. Furtl'.eir on are marshy tracts near llioy amount to 339,365. . Rtik i;i' m-x'^:^ ;; 'I t 4 I ■ ■ . ■, m i 'i; m m ■if:! 350 LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. I I !■ Rio frio, Relva, and Barroco de v^a, which ittight he drairted. ' '* . ' " tugal, very difhcult to ascertain. Only the number of houses is accurately known, and the number of inhabitants must be thereby calculated ; for that of communicants is very uncertain, as many frauds are practised in this respect. If en- quiry be made in the small towns of the correge- dores, they give a round and generally exagge- rated* number, -in order to magnify the conse- quence of the place where they live. According to the last decennial census in the year 1790 the forty parishes of Lisbon contained .*J8, 102 fire- places or hearths; which includes the suburbs of Junqueira and Alcantara, but not the vil- lages of Bclem and Campo-grande ; though they also, particularly the first, are connected with the f.own, being in the ternio of Lisbon. If we reckon Belcm, a market-town which completely joins Junqueira, the population nay be estimated with confidence at above 300,000, exclusive of the military. Lisbon is quite open on all sides, having neither walls nor gates, nor even any fortifications, except a small castle in the middle of the town, and a number of batteries or small forts on the river, The ground is very hilly, and, according to the Portugiieze writers, the city stands, like ancient Rome, on seven hills; I shall consider it as standing on three The first bill, or rather mountain, begins at the bridge of Alcantara, forming the proper western limit of the town, and extends to the rua de San Bcnto, or St. Benedict's street. This hill is unquestionably the highest, being much celebrated for its salubrious air for which reason one of the streets bears the i^panish name of Buenos Ayres, instead of the Portngueze* words Bona .4rcH. At the \vcst«'rit extremity it is btit little cultivated, but farther to the east- ward up to its «urnmit. t'orinliii^ also to the east- ward a plain, uu which stands the new niona.stery. In ntany parts it is so steep that it is a labour to walk the streets, and even the lower street, which runs rlong the river, rises and falls ronsiderahlv. During the heavy rains the water rushes down the 4 U streets ^-■-^:S ' , I ■ . ' ■ i: ?.ii. i % ■J •ill ■!^ . 'I '"IP ■'-•:'! 352 LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAt streets with such violence that they are often im- passable, and at the bottom of the calzada de estrella some gallcgos, i. e. porters, post them- selves at these times, and convey the passengers for a trifle. This inconvenience, however, is at- tended with the advantage of washing away the filth, and cleansing the town. Immediately after the earthquake this hill was more built upon, as the shocks were much less severe there. Foreigners also prefer these situations, both on Ihis account and for the salubrity of the air. Hence many handsome houses are interspersed in various parts. The streets are irregularly built, ill paved, often narrow, and not unfrequently full of new but small and wretched houses. On this hill the queen has built a church and convent (dedicated to the heart of Jesus), to which she is much attached. It is generally called o con- xcnto novo, or the new convent. The church is handsome, its excellent and beautifully white limestone giving it a very cheerful appearance, though the architecture is bad, and overloaded with ornament. Not far from this convent, on the other side of a square is the protestant hurying-place, in which are many monuments, particularly that of Fielding, who died here. This cemetery is planted with cypresses and judas-trees, a combination much used for such situations in the south of Europe, and originally an oriental custom. Not far from thence, leaving the houses behind us, v-3 came to a pleasant plain, called Campo de Ourique, separated from the neighbouring hills by deep vallies, which is used as a promenad<: by the lower and middling classes. ' The second hill is only a continuation of the first, from which it is separated by a valley of no great depth. It extends from the rua de San Bcnto, to the valley in which arc ilaiils of nortlioni climaU-s may suppose, .111(1 tiivind with gr.iss, are rarely seen here, thick ver. dure being iincoinmoii in the low and hot countries of the south of Kiirope. The blades of ijrass vtaiid single .ind sciree, but on the other hand the soil is covered with various kinds of trefoil and siniiiar plants, liut our roin. uxMi cloxT is heri! very rare. + Near the town it passes over a deep valley, and the works are planned «ith great niagnirieenee. It rests on neveral bold arehes, the largest of which is 2.30 feet 10 iudics French high, and 107 feet 8 inches broad. The bold and grand work of art, the aqueduct calu I 08 arfos, by which water is brought from seva!!! springs situated at a distance of three leae I and near the village of Bellas, being in^!^] parts conducted under ground f. I The water enters the town at a place caiy] da Amoreita, where it divides into several oil?! aqueducts, and supplies the fountains, which at' 1 often very ornamental, though in a bad taste I Here the Gallegos draw water in small barrels I and cry it about the streets. The water isveril good, cont<^ining a portion of oxygenated calca.l reous earth, its sources being in limestune billil The Portugueze being inhabitants of u warmf climate, cannot be blamed for loving good water I In summer, it is sold by the glass throughoujl Spain and Portugal, in the public squares anjl promenades; and among both these nations ail excellent method is used, to keep water and othtr] liquors cool in summer. Earthen vessels ai«| made of clay containing lime and iron, soastol be very porous, but without glazing. Thejef vessels which are called uucaros or rt/carr«:«| suffer the moisture to pervade their substance jo] the form of a fine dew, which is continuallTi evaporating, and thus producing cold. At firi they give the water an unpleasant earthy tastcj which however it soon loses by use. The trees that grow here on the north side of] Lisbon, are chiefly olive and orange-trct^s; bul other fruit trees are more scarce, and even alniondJ trees are not numerous. Cypresses, judas-treesJ elms, and poplars, appear here and there, of oaks, beeches, and linden-trees, there are none] and willows are extremely rare. The orange] tree is most striking, although near Lisbon m does not grow very high. It requires niticlt water, which is supplied to plantations byclian^ nels, which are filled by water-wheels. ThJ earth is heaped up at their roots, and the wated view is singular when the spectator stands beneath it, and in pointed arc!... seem changed into a majestic Yaiilt tlMirJ cchos every sound. The whole length of the ii(|iicilii(tid 9400 feet. In the middle is a covered ar( li.d wiy, oi seven or eight feet, where the water Hows on rarli >iilJ through a tunnel of stone. Without this arched vtiivaiiJ on each side is a path, where two persons can cdiifi'nii'iitlJ walk abreast with a parapet, over which they m.iy louki down to its base. 'JNie small towers perhaps iii;fiiil)ihJ general ert'ect, but could not be tlispeuscd with, foriljijl serve as ventilators. ' coiidiicteJ LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 355 iyclcd between these heaps. They are pro- aMted by seed and afterwards grafted*. Besidesllje orange groves, strangers are par- L igfiy struck with the liedges of American lloes an*! Indian figs in the southern parts of I aia and Portugal; both of which are easily Uanted, forming hedges impenetrable to cattle. but easily destroyed by men, though difficult to confine within bounds. They will grow also oi| extremely bad sandy soil. In July and August, when the aloes are in bloom, these high stem^ covered with flowers form a very beautiful ob- ject, whereas in Germany, a single aloe in bloom is publickly advertised in the newspapers f. Climate of Lisbon — Provisions there SECTION IV. lit'. ■ , ( „ , . . Police, and Description of the Portugueze. ■ *■'' iHE climate of Lisbon is very salutary and pleasant to those who are accustomed to it. lie winter, as to vegetation, is the end of July, > mouth of August, and the beginning of Sep- Dber; at which time every thing is parched up, ut a green blade of grass to be seen, and the plitge of the evergreens is shrivelled up and has loelttDcholy appearance. The heat continues icessantly with the sky almost always serene, lough it is much relieved by sea-breezes. In anier the north wind prevails in Portugal, but ! direction being changed by the mountains of tintra it becomes a north-west, which con- jderably cools the air. In September the |(eniiie;s arc frequently cold, though at noon the ris proportionably too hot. The greatest heat jlways accompanies the east wind ; and in the Lnmer of 1798 Fahrenheit's thermometer rose 101'' (32"* of Reaumur). A heat equal to fiopfFidircnheit is not uncommon in Portugal; ' from comparative observations it appears, kat the climate is hqtter there than in Rio * In December and .lanuary, the orapgm begin (a turn and at the end of January, and in February, before Ijfvarc ripe and sweet they arc gathcreil fur esportatlon. lotrard the end of March, and in April, they are very d, but delicate persons will not eat thoui till llic be- Inning of May ; at which time they begin tu be perfcully Irwtand well flavoured. They comiuuo throughout Jiiiio July till Auf^ust, and at length become tiCArce and hrr-ripe. At the end of April and in .May appear the jjoisoms, the fra|i;raiico of which extcndii far and wide ; the RUtily of goldrn fruit amid the dark branchts, and re. rail Mill more by the white blossoms, which at the same ■oic adurii thciu conlintially, excite new adiiiirafion, fcoiigh the same object dally recurs. Ow tree frequently »n l,r>0(> orangei, and examples ari3 not wanting, of pirir brarini; 2,n(X), and .sometimes, thuush rarely, 2.M)0. fkw from iiuniiar arc particularly ^owl, and b^uiu Vol. II. No. XCIU. Janeiro in Brasil, though the heat does not con- tinue near so long. Prom Midsmnmer-day to the middle of September rain is extremely uut common, and even in the beginning of that month very scanty: tlie drought often co:itinues mnch longer. Immediately after the first rains follow the autumnal ilowers, the meadow safiVon, the autumnal snow drop, the swcot-snielling ranuvciilus ImUatns, and many others. These appear in the higher lands round Cintra, where the rams are earlier than in the lower parts round Lisbon. Immediately after the autumnal flowers come the spring plants, owing to which the interval betweiMi spring and autunm is scarce- ly perceptible In October the young grass springs up and the new leaves shoot out, render- ing it the pleasantest month of the year. In November and December fall heavy rains with frequent storms. Days of perpetual silent raiii arc very rare; for in general it comes down in torrents. The brooks round Lisbon, which it was a little while before easy to step over, and kniffhtj) of Malta have assured me that these, and the oranges from Coudeixa near Coimbra, are by no means in- ferior tb those of Malta. 1' have also found thoso u/ Vidigneira in Alcmtejo uncommonly delicate. At I/isbon they are not cheap, but in the. provinces cxcellitnt oraii<;i'<< may be bought for about half a farthiri!; stciiiui; each. Oranges arc sold wholesale., on the tfeei, and there ar* people who nnders(and how to a|»i)rpciate the number they bear. They are then gathered, oarefnily packed in chests, and shipped. Tin- greater ]iart are sent to Knglanil,.or conveyed in Knglish vessels to other i»arts, but sonic of the rich merchants who have long dealt in tlieiu, assured us that the)- do not yieJd airy great profit, and often leave a los«. ()thcr acid Pruits, as for instance lemons, are scarce at Lisbon, but n^orc abundant in the ciililer regions of Portugal. + VVti may iuld, tiiat this is the case in I^ug^limJ likewue, ■ • » ' 4X ' whicli !■? 'M !H '':)■) 1 Wm ::■•■ (\\ t.^ u ■1i »'fi u;'f ;iHr ^■% ;Ml 556 LINK'S TRAVF.LS IN POTlTtTGAl, :. I J ^ '; ^^ilch wholly disappear in summer, now rush like torrents down the hills*. In January rold f'car weather often pre- vails, but bcfomes milder in Fel)riiarv, vhit'h is generally a very pleasant month. Snow is su extrenjely rare, that, fourteen years ag'o, fome happening to fall, the common peo- ple were S(» alarmed' tlnit they run into the cluirchc?, and thought that the end of the world •was coming. In Fehriiary the sun becomes strong, and thus causes a great many severe catarrhs, called by the Portugueze constipa(joJs. The equimix is followed by heavy rains accom- panied with storms, as if all nature were falling in ruins. From this lime till June is the most changeable season of the year. The weather is sometimes rainy and cool, sometimes dry and hot, till the accustomed heat and drought that follow midsummer day complete the circle. Storms scarcely ever happen in the middle of summer; they are confined to winter or the equinoxes, but are then violent, and the light- ning is sometimes destructive. The genial temperature of the air is very favourable to agriculture, and it depends entirely on the quantity of rain whether the year be fruit- ful or the contrary. Wheat is commonly sown in the neighbourhood of Lisbon, but rye is scarce and only grown for cattle ; barley is also sown, but I never saw any oats. The usual variety of wheat is that with long-pointed caliccs, named by Haller triticum siculum, which re- quires the best soil. The harvest is in May, and the corn is threshed as with its; but in some parts is trod out by horses or oxen, for which purpose a floor is made in the fields. Manure is not commonly used, or at most putrified plants are laid on. Rye is often in ear in February and March, but is cut down before it is ripe generally for fodder. The Portugueze live principally on meat and fish, but are not fond of vegetables. In Lisbon the bread is generally bad. It is usually iftade of wheat-flciir, sometimes of maize, but never of rye. Water-mills are not used ; but wind-mills are numerous, and, being furnished with trian- gular sails, form a singular appearance on the bills round Lisbon. Potatoes are not at all culti- vated, but imported from England and Ireland. * This swelling of the streams renders trareliing extreme ,71 di%ult at that season, and would, without doubt, re. 4 However, Spanish potatoes, which are far nutritive, are grown here and there. In jvijj j. young green i»eas and beans are catea, but i these warm climates arc not so well flavoured l with us, having always a dryness and insipidjd A small kind of beans, brocoli, and caulillu^vJ are very common, also lettuces and succory; bJ other species of cole are more scarce, and brow] cole is not to be found. The chick-pea, w|ij(J constitutes the chief food of the lower classes jl that country, and is certainly preferable to drit, peas, is hut little cultivated near Lisbon, Tin common people eat lupins in great quantitin These arc sown in fallows, and the pulse al soaked in running water to destroy their biUal ness before they are dressed. On days of m cession, bull-fights, and- similar occasions, ||J arc sold in the market-place, boiled, but cold] to the common people, who cat them out of the J pockets. They have a mealy insipid taste, bu| are very cheap. Rice is also, both in Spain am Portugal, a very common species of food, an much liked by all classes. It is imported iij great quantities from Brasil, and sold at arcs sonahlc price, but is not much cultivated i^ Portugal. Butcher's meat is very good; but calves w not allowed to be slaughtered in order to (treserrij the cattle, so that veal is very rare. Itinavl easily imagined, however, that this law tributes as little to its object as other similar r^ strictions, and therefore is not obeyed. Tbel oxen arc, throughout the peninsula, of a siul and beauty seldom seen cjsewliere. Pork is also! very good ; and the Portugueze hams are mucbl esteemed. The swine of this peninsula areufil particular kind, being short-boned, broad-bad-j ed, and having thin black hair, which forms noj bristles on the back. The mutton is the wor»t| kind of meat. Game is rare, except rabbits and! red partridges, which are extremely common, but! not so tender as ours. It is remarkable thatial Portugal no fresh butter is made excepting intl few private houses in the country, Irish audi Dutch butter being commonly used. Dutchl cheese is also most common and cheapest; andl milk is no where found but in great cities, a\ cepting goat's milk upon some of the mountains.! Fish constitute the principal nourishment ofl tard the operatiou of war as much ui wiuter as the in sammer. tile LINK'S TllAVKl-S IN POflTUGAL^ 357 kflfflon P'"*P'® ^^^ ^''® •'clitacics of the rich. Elh coiis'""'' pjrcat quantities of badilaUo, of Ihiclitlic Eiigfli»l» exporl thitJicr to the value of Imillioii and a quarter of dollars. Thero arc Lensc wal'filit'uses of this fish, wliich on fastr ivssiippl.v tlifi tables of the rich and poor. In Jjiisoniiciice of the war between England and Inain, ercat quantities wore sent over-land to |alcoiiiili"V; l*"* the stoik-fish simply, cured, Ihicli in Ocrinany is the most conuiion, is not so uilin Portugal. Another lish, which is taken i immense quantities on the coast of Portugal, llie Stirdinlia, or pilchard ( Sardinia dupcO' trtltus, Linn,*), which is the food and comfort [f the poor. It is often also given as food to vine, Rread, .wine, and sardiuhas, ioiija .the linncr of the common soldiers, labourers, and Lilar classes; and 1 have often seen beggars lib their children's bread with asardinha to give I a taste. Were this fishery properly carried on, light supply the place of bacalaho, and would Ln supply Portugal with fish-oil. The other ndsof fisii eaten here are the sole, the turbof, eshad, the conger, the mackareb and the sword- feli, some of which are very good. Among the spices used for culinary purposes I hail only mention cassia from Brasil, which sup- Llie.< the place of cinnamon, and the pichurim- ohiK, which is used instead of nutmegs; the iste is pleasant, somewhat resembling that of iennel, but very ditTereut from nutmegs. The first object that must strike every foreign- r on entering Lisbon, is the badnco of the olice; the filth of the streets lies- every where in leaps, which, in the narrow streets where tlie liii ibea not wash it away, require great skill in nlkipg, to avoid sinking into them. In one of lie most frequented streets on the river leading ) the Ribera nova, there is only a narrow path yioding near the houses; and the reader may tbrm an idea of the number of people who daily jise it, the gall^oa with their very heavy bur- Ihens, which a passenger cannot avoid; while ihc larti pass as near to the houses as possible, that Ihe horses may not go in the deepest part of the Dud; and thus all the dirt and filth is blindly kpLtshed upon the passengers, in the worst man- er conceivable. As to the night, the city was Ibrnierly lighted, but now this practice has teased; and, as the window-shutters are shut * In this name I have followed Briiiuiichc and Vandclli, Ithough I do not believe tlic sardine uf the south to be the curly, there is no light to diminish the darkness of these dirty, narrow, ill-paved streets. A host of dogs without masters, and living on the pub- lic, wander about like hungry wolves; and, still worse than these, an army of banditti. Our friends often expressed their astonishment at our venturing into Portugal in these times of war; but I assured them it was by no means so bold an undertaking, as to go at midnight from Be- Icm to Maravilhas, at the eastern extremity of the town. The government is said annually to appropriate a considerable suip to cleansing the streets; but how this money is disposed of is best known to the intendaiit of the police of Lisbon and of the wh'>|e kingdom, Dom Diego Ignacio dc Pina Manique. The amusements of the carnival arc always' governed by the rullng^ taste of every nation. Of what then should they consist at Lisbon?' Both high and low delight in throwing all kinda of dirt and filth on the passengers, who in con- formity to custom, and to avoid q,uarrels, must bear it patiently. The high walls of the quintas in the town, the vacant and deserted grounds, invite to robbery, and murder, which are still farther favoured by the badness of the police. Tliese crimes are al- ways perpetrated with knivei, though all pointed'- knives are prohibited. Murders mostly arise from- revenge or jea- louiiy; robbers ;e generally contented with threats. The spring is the most daneerous time«. and I have known every night marked with' some murder. The boldness of the assassins is asto- nishing. On a fast-day, in a procession iti« honour of St. Rochus, a man. was murdered in. open day in the throng, at five o'clock in the afternoon. In the summer of the same year a- man was robbed at noon, between the walls near the prince of Waldeck's, who was witness to the trani>action. The cobbers were even so bold a» to attack coachesv But the criminals almost always escaped, the compassion of the Portu- gueze being such that every one assists hina. in his (light. Tfney exclaim Coutadinho! or, alas, poor man ! and every thing is done to assist him. The punishment of deatn is entirely, done away, and the culprit is sent to the Indies or Angola; a punishment which by no means gives. same as the sprat of the north. This is ovidcnfj from those; which arc daily esposed fur sale in England. the .^ il...H-/ !' ' !'). 1 I; PI !•! ill >»,; If' ■'''!■ I? ■ ii'i: "i rU 'f-<'' f', lit ' ; iiir ■' -' ■ ' ' ■ ;. I Ii« h..^ ill 4 ■'! 358 UNK'S TRAVFX8 IN PORTUGAL. Fi the improssion of death, though the cliroutea of both aii^ so unwholesome that destruction is cer- tain. A great part of these robbers are negroes, of whom there is a greater number hvse perhaps than in any other city of Europe, not excepting London. Manyof them get their bread as trades- people, not unfrequenlly become good and re- spectable citizens, and instances occur of (heir arriving at a high dcj^ree of 8ki^l as artisans. A larger portion are beggars, thieves, jHTOcurcrs, and procuresses. Every negro- who has served his master seven, years in Europe is free, and then not unfrequently becomes a beggar uidess he has had a very good master. Great numbers of (hem ar6 cfupioyed as sailors, and I do notice any reason why they arc not also cnlis(ed aa soldiefs. There is n great number of vagabonds in Lis- bon, for all idle people from the provinces come in bodies to the metropolis, and arc permitted to live in the open town wi(hont impediment. Hence arise the immense number of beggars, who partly rove about, and partly remain in fixed places, crying out continually, and pro- mising to mention this or that person to Nesta Scnhora in their prayers. A physician might here meet with an uncommon number of remarkable < ntd^cMi^ disorders ; I have often observed a true l>.>pr«sy, and endeavoured by observa(i<)ns of this- 'kind to render myself insensible to the disgust they inspire. . These be^ars receive a great deal in charity, tij(ixiugh a mistaken sense- of piety, prevalent irtCNttholic countries. TheyaUo often prac(ii!C aritfices (o obtain charity. I remember ail t>ld man who fell down before ns through liuiiger, as he afterwards said, and (hu« imme- dia(tly obtained from my youthful companion a considerable piece' of goli; while 1, somewhat f.oUler, remarked his thea(rical performance, vvi(hhetd my charity, examined' into the afTair, and found my suspicions grounded. Another class of begging is that for souls in purgatory. I'lic religious fraternities, to whom it properly belongs to collect these alms, and to have masses ))erforined in a certain church for that purpose, farm out this employment to certain people, who post (tiemselves in the neighbonrho«)d of (his cimrch to beg: for whic'h they generally pay right milrecs anni.ully, and by this contract fre- Cj»ienlly gain one bundled milrces a year. Every thing is done in Portugal pelur amor dc Dcos c pelas almas, (i.e. for the love of God and of il souls ) . The monasteries send their fruit, usiuiill grapes, to be sold in the streets, as it wctc vl auction, in order to perform masses ford money. They are cried about the strecu uvas pclas almas (grapes for the souls); j., when the price is asked, the answer is ^encrtu] considerable. In the Caizuda de Esirdla wj beggar, who always cried snuff for (he bodIj Snuff is a great article of necessity for all ranki for both sexes, for every old man, and ia sboi for the whole nation. Nor isitdiiKcuUtoobti the partiality of any of the Common class ofpt pie, if the traveller but oA'er him a pinch good snuft'. I saw a beggar-woman put loq snuff to the nose of her child who was still L arms. On a botanical excursion near Lisbonj met a well dressed lady, who asked iiic for pinch of snuff', as she had lost her box; J when 1 told her that I never used one. she 2 plied, with an expression of the most violei grief, estou desesperada ( 1 am quite in ilenpaiil The porters, watur-carriers, and most of i servants, come ftMii the Spanish province Gallicia, and are called Gallegos. These ugefuj men leave their poor native country, migrating partly into the other provinces of Spain, pirtfl into Portugal, to earn money by the gevera labour, and, in many provinces of Portugal, ai sist in the harvest. They a r*' extremely laUiriou and, though avaricious, honest. This cbaracto] however, is not entirely unspotted. Sometim they settle in Portugal, and open small tipplii| and eating houses, or ffrocers' shops, but gent rally return home ivito the money tlirv ban gained. . . The dress of the common people is a vesti. various colours, a» blue, blaok» dark brown, j^J over which they wear a mantle with iiaiigii^ sleeves, like the Spaniards, but a three- coriietei hat, and not a brown cap, vrbicli is < pccului; to the Gallegos. Young ladies ajso wear a siiniy mantle, as do both men and women of cunsidcH able rank, only that they wear them of varioid colours, and often figured. Deueath this niamlil a fashionable dress is often ronccailed, similailJ (bat of London or Paris. Great coats and ruiiiidl ha(s are quite unusual among the nativinJ Women of the lower classes weaJr a handkcrciiiell wound round their head, so (hat a corn<.-r hmm down behind ; some wear the Spanish iir(, biitl never the Spanish veil. Auiong the rich, vthol LINK'S TRAVFLS IN PORTUGAL. 359 I iher respt^cts pursue European fathtons, we .and tlierc saw one with her hair tied flat he- i ^vith ii ribband. The female peasants J Lisbon come to town in a red jacket and a U pointed velvet cap. IThey «''" ^°^^ i^^f^ of the nation by Lis- in run tlie risk of committing frequent errors; AjgcitY is a rendezvous for all the vagabonds ftbe whole kingdom, and a great part of the fo- [fliers of the lower ranks are also the scum of lur nations. I know that these last are some- L(,rery docile, and easily fall into the custom fhiring themselves as banditti; for I know cer» Ly of serious proposals of this kind being ide. But I must confess that, notwithstanding Dumbers of bad people among the lower and the unworthy manner iu which fo- ers often act toward the inhabitants, exam- , gre not wanting of a true and disinterested Mpitality among the common people. Round ^bon and in tlie villages, however, the true ...ngueze character not unfrequently again ap- iri, to which I bear testimony of full appro- tion. Both the higher and lower classes are fond of profusion of compliments, which flow in a tor- it from every mouth. A common peasant tin^ another takes off" his hat quite low down. Ids him a long while by the hand, enquires Rer his health and that of bis family, and does fail to add, I am at your commands, and Igur humble servant. This is not a remark ien from a single instance, for I have heard it kireniely often from ass-drivers and others of linilar classes. The rich are said to conceal a Ijic heart beneath a profusion of polite expres- |ons. I have nothing to say in defence of the liglier classes; they are as inferior to the jpaniards as the common people excel them. The male sex are not handsome; and a tall ban is rarely seen, the generality being short, ht, and square-made. Their features are also ieldom regular, turned-up noses and projecting lips being so common as to suggest an idea of a mixture with negroes. The difference between the Spaniards and the Portugueze is extremely striking, the latter being fat, the former meagre, the noses of the latter turned up, those of tiic former arched downward, so that they only agree in their yellow complexions and black eyes. Of the fair sex, the author of the .ATcw Picture of Lisbon, who was a Frenchman, and his Ger- man editor at Leipzig, Tilesius, differ; the former praising, and the latter censuring them. In fadt, they have the same defects as the other sex, being of too low a stature and inclined to corpulency ; but their countenances are expressive, and their manners animated and friendly; which, with very fine eyes, long and uncommonly strong hair, very white teeth, full breasts, and extreme- ly beautiful feet, form, in my opinion, a charm> ing assemblage, and compensate other irrsgula- rities. Although in Lisbon, as in every other great city, there is no scarcity of courtesans, and though, as their doors stand open, every one may enter, yet they are far less importunate than in London, or the Palais Royal at Paris. But to return to ladies of condition. The softer graces which adorn the beauties of the north are rarely seen in Portugal ; and perhaps they night as ill become the fire of Portugueze eyes as a burning climate can give them birth. Great beauties, however, may be seen in Lisbon, par- ticularly when the slender nerthern shape and the white fine skin of those climates are united with the advantages of the south, producing as it were the most beautiful work of nature. From this charming subject I am obliged to pass to the uncleanliness of the Portugueze. On leaving England and entering France every species of uncleanliness becomes greater and greater in proportion as we travel southward.. The apartments grow constantly more dirty, the privies are more horrible, or totally disappear, and a host of vermin of all kinds swarm round the traveller in his sleep. SECTION V. The Amnsements of Lisbon-~-Fublic Institutions at that City, ^HE society of Lisbon is dull and melancholy, especially when compared with that of arge Spanish cities. The inhabitants neither Vol. 11. No. XCIV. walk nor ride. In all respects there is very little luxury, nor are there any fine equipages; and the coaches, which every rich person keeps, are 4V made !'j V I ;' ;ii ii m I' 'M^^-r: 1 1 / ,1) ■v,:^' ' !;. li t mm f irri :i v; ^m^^m mR 3(J0 LINK'S TRAVFXS IN PORTUGAL made on the ugly Spanioh model, and drawn by mules. The desire of keeping many servants, that species of luxury so destructive to every country, here also prevails. They are, however, poorly clad and ill fed, having rice almost every day. The rich keep >vithin the circle of .their own families, and the tranquillity of their courts is scarcely ever disturbed. They spend a part of the year in their quintas (gardens;) and in Au- gust and September go to Cintra, Where they see more of each other. It is a trait of. their character, that at places, where the richesfc part of the town assemble together, they dance to one violin. In general the Portugueze are not fond of dancing, which is seldom seen among the common people, except in the market-pluces sometimes a folia, or Spanish seguedilla, is danced, and by travellers mistaken for the fan- dango. For foreigners and the principal Portu- gueze, as for instance the ministers, a public asHcmbly-rooni is built, where is a dance every Thursday. But this is rather an amusement for the foreigners, who form here a separate class of society ; the lower orders assemble in cotl'ee- houscs, ('/cj/V.sj of which there are several in every street, and often a considerable number. They are small, dirty, and ill-contrived, and aflbrd wretched coffee,' bad punch, and other refresh- ments. The chocolate is bad throughout Por- tugal, and mixed with a disgusting fat. In short, it is infinitely inferior to that of Spain. There is only one tolerable cotfee-house, which is visited by people of condition, and where at that time every thing that could be desired might , be had, and of excellent quality. The lower classes resort to the numerous wine houses (tavei'nas), where a red wine is sold, which round Lisbon is very bad. I have both here and in Spain observed that the inhabitants do not ac- custom themselves to drinking wine, but arc in- toxicated by a quantity which a German or an Englishman, after a short residence in this coun- try, would scarcely feel. ... One of the principal amusements of the rich is the Italian opera, which is not supported by the court, but by private individuals. It was at that time in all respects excellent, and the singers have rendered every other opera to me insipid. The best of these performers was added to it at the time, when the French occupied Rome and turned out the Castrati from the great opera. The house is large and baudsomc, the disposition of ita parts excellent, and the attention ofiM manager, that every one should be in his pr place, very exemplary. Sometimes also j),' gueze operettas are performed, gciieriilly iJ"^ as afterpieces, in which the Portugue/claii.rn ] has a pleasing etl'oct in the Italiuu inoiiilj Zamparini. Besides the opera-house called hviro dcrj los, there is u Portugue/e play-house ,.j{i teatro do salitrc, situated in a narrow lilllcstra behind the public promoiiude: it h iuucIi l than the opera-house, very narrow, aiul is u little visited by persons of condition. UndJ such circumstances little can be expcrtcd. Hd no womeh perfcrm, their parts bcinp; (iHodi men who can scarcely conceal their biMirds, players are frequently artisans. A sliocmaU who had been at work all day perfornird aiiKiw other comical old chn meters, and wa» not til worst of the actors. The piecea rcpicsmlcd ail generally translations from the ItiAlian, IcssfJ quently from other languages, aiul >phitlieatre above each other. In Miiiineti there were bull-ftghts almost every Sunday ;fro!ii| twelve to fifteen beasts being killed in an uftrr-f noon. During the winter this very cruel amuse-l ment entirely ceases. They stab tlu; b(art day, but those who Irenmsiilerably enlightened*. The inclination of the Portuguezc merely to Ibserve (he ceremonies of religion is evidently (he Liseof this diminution of fanaticism, and also If several good customs that prevail. Whoever Lsanv money bu>8 a permibsion to work on fast- lavs, m consequence of which the fields and ijiieyards round Lisbon are full of labourers on Joine rather important fasts. In regard to pub- lic business, Sunday is observed much more strict- Iv ill London than in Lisbon. This inclination, liiilpfd, of the people is attended with much rrtitcr disadvantages: for, hence they continue l^va^s ignorant, and arc the dupes of an equally biorant priesthood. Lisbon is by no means destitute of literary in- * I was onco much amused at hcarinl.ilay, ur to violate the sixdi commuiulincnt ; wlien Ihe ^I'liiTitl .-inswLT was, that t ho latter was a tiille, eoiii- liarcil to the former. Nottvithstaiulirig this, neither the ptitiii nor the common people are so fanatical as in Spain. Df lliisi cniiicl rotate many individual traits, but 1 will con. Ii'iit myself with a few. I was present at a procession at St. I'bcs, where two captains of .ships, a Dane and an polish man, ^^uli'ered the host to pass them, without taking lol) their hats. Of this no one took notice, except a For. Jtiigiii'zc sailor, who asked who were those |)eoplu with Ihcir hats oil. The answer was sao Ingkzcs Jideputas, Itbry arc Eiiglisli suns uf b— — s), and nothing more was stitutions. The first and most important is> doubtless, the academy of sciences, founded by (he present queen iinincdiatcly after the beginning of her reign, that she might contribute something to the advancement of literature, which Pombal had not. The president is the duke of Lafocs, of the royal house of Hragan/u, generalissimo of the forces, and one of the first personages in (he country. The duke has travelled abroad, is a favourer of learned men, and, although he has many peculiarities, is by no means unenlightened or destitute of talents. The secretary is Doui Jose Correa da Serra, now in London, where \ had the pleasure of becoming acquainted willi him, and found him to be a man whoso science, talents, and enlightened mind, do honour to his country. With (hese qualities it was natural he should have quarrels with the iiiquisitioti, in coii- setinence uf which he thought it prudent to live abroad. He continues, however, (o ctijoy hi» olTu-e, and his 8ubs(i(utc is Dom Pnincisco de IJorja Gar^ao Stockier, who also had stmic trou- ble (Ml account of his eulogiinn on D'Alembert, which was (ou free and well written I'tM' this cotui- try. The academy have already done much for (he advancement of science, and have published six volumes of JMemorias da Littcratura Portu- i^ucza, consisting in great measure of papers ou (he hi$(ory and laws of Portugal. Then follow (hr»;e parts of JMcmorids evouomicun, atuong which are many excellent papers, and two parts of pri/.e memoirs, the first on the metliod of cultivating and maiuiring land, ami the second on the vine. For some years past these publica- tions have been interrupted. In 1797, appeared the first volume of their larger treatises, in (|uarto, very handsomely printed, in which are several papers that deserve attention. Added to said. When the Prince of W'aldeck was buriml, I heard one of the common people say, " he was a heretic, but u very good man." Upon this 1 mixed with the crowd, and heard nothing but praises of the worthy prince, who was even carried to the heretic cemetery. I heard also, that hu had refused on his death-bed the accnslomcd solicitatinns t» become a cathalick, and found, to my great astonishment, his conduct generally approvetl, '' because every one should live and die in his religion." The Portuguezc consider every foreigner as a heretic, yet ar(( p(dit<', and ready to serve thcni, and even express surprise when they meet with a foreigner who is a catholick. This trait shews how muc!» of their anticnt bigotry this nation have lost, owing probabl/ to their comrource with the Euglish. •• - • •' . ' • tlicse^ I 'i ni 'i 1 V C' k' m^M I ,1: •: '62 LINICS TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. If these, the at" ad iray have in their printing-office several work" for publication, of which I ^all name the Flora Cocliinchiivmsis by Loureiro*. Ill Jct.niiary, 1799, was instituted a geogra- phical academy, particularly relative to Portu- <^-al, o P.lb„c| '•■"(liiccd fo 1 t St !a Senh !w Port "fa dosi and at (1,1 c, f*'«g"e- Eackl bookseller i eservcs also t,| f a <;«'np„ri,„„[ "f aiadrid; iti stocked, and ill »sil than miglitl r, some ciiriuuil 'evi>rysing,||J -^^ two league,! >ni Kahia. I(,f ' two (housamil S' jfs greatcitj 'es, its greatpstj , and ifspreat-C '■ 'file iippefj there ancM onoiu'sideitiJ »n ii'.scri|)(ioD,l ! how siiigulajj it of | I persuus were I lousand, twol ten, and liten^l literary men ball hundrrdi Ured wd thirty-five were dismissed cured, »i,niniand five hundred and seventy-nine died, 1 one thousand and ninety-one remained. Be- tlic account of it in the calendar, which (not always be trusted, ithas in its favour com- fn ri'poi'*> even that of foreigners, who gene- jjvcoiiiplai" of every thing in Portugal. There [' besides, ati English and a Danish hospital Liirted by individuals of those i.ations. [Every physician must have studied at Coimbra, ilnrocurctl a licence from the protoracdicus of kboiito practise physick in Portugal; but it is [requisite to take a doctor's degree, which Lv seldom do. In Lisbon itself, as usual, they eless strict than in other towns, and foreign physicians are suffered to do as they please. Edmund More, an English physician, was at that time in the highest repute. It must not, however, -i supposed that all the Purtugueze physicians are altogether ignorant, for here and there is a clever man, and the university of Co- imbra is not entirely barbarous. Many also pur- sun tlieir studies at Paris, and, of late, even at Edinburgh. Almost in e\t'ry street is a small apothecary's shop; but these are under no re- gulations, and frequently very bad. IMuny of thctn, however, aOer trials I have made of them, (lid not deserve the censures which some travellers have, without examination, bestowed on them. SECTION VL J'illagcs round Lisbon — Q.uelus, the Royal Rcddcncc — The Mountains of Cintra. \S the south side of the river, notwithstand- ing the sandiness of the country, and the iiiial succession of heaths and pine-forests, ■ village follows another, being generally situ- lon creeks of the river, and supported by the afic carried on by that medium with Lisbon. lound these places is a great quantify of garden- it, and very good vines are grown here and |cre, which, with attentive cultivation bn the [ndv plains of this warm country, succeed Ifv well. It is to be lamented, there is no ac- Utn these places but by water, and that during icfbh several swamps appear, which, particularly hunimcr, corrupt the ai''. Barroco de Alva is known for its insahibiious air, nor is Coiuia any means a healthy place. On the last creek ilie eastward, is a markel-town called Aldea lillega, of whici: 1 have already spoken, and on a not far from thence a market town called lliiiila, through which lies the road to S't. Ubes, a Dusiuerable place, though not so closely built as iii'fornier Farther along the batik of the river it- k!f are the heaiiliful market -tow OS of Al bos vedros, tavradio, celebrated f(»r its good wine, and Jarreiro. Here begins a second creek, \\liich ilcnds to the market-town of Couna, through liich is the road to A'/eytao. Near this pla'-e |iii(ksilv(?r has been found in the sand, Mhich ; alternates with strata of clay containing pnie iron, for which reason trenches are cut, nd it is intended to make some further attempts If this kind. Vol, II, No. XCIV. Then follows the last creek, with the market- town of Seixal, which is the least of all, and through it lies the road to Cezimbra, a town which supplies Lisbon with a great quantity of fish. In the angle where the stream grows narrow, is the mark,et-town of Casilhas, the usual lan^'ing place in going up the river from Lisbon, as the landingis alwaysgoodthere without waiting for the flood. The inarket-townof Mon- tella, and thesmall town otAlmada, are only a quar- ter of a league from Casilhas. Thus in a space of five leagues, or about four German miles, are no less than ten considerable, well-built, and populous market-towns, without reckoning the numerous villages and hamlets; from which an idea may be formed of the lively scene the banks of this river afl'ord. Below Almada on the bank of the river, is a large English hospital for .^iailors, particuhirlv for the fleet, and a considerable inaga/ine of wine. From hence the bank continues high and hilly, the towns and villages lying in the hollows be- tween the hills. A tower strengthened bv a few cannon and soldiers, called tone icUiu or old tower, answers to the opposite tower of liclem. A village called Porto Brandao, the landing- place in crossing the river from Belem, lies in another hollow; but the houses contiiii;e for a league inland to Caparica, where good wine is also produced. Close to the mouth of the river is the great fishing village of Trafleria, and round the point gf the village uf Acosta consiating 4z ;f ';!^ ? Mi ll '?: 'i i.' ^Id:'' i fl mm iim Pi WiiSiiki .«<»f»n..,j«w!«ic;wB»»i«a 364 LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. i V ; i <^f only small houses, ivhich have the appearance of wooden sheds, and are dispersed alone the beach. The inhabitants are a bold half-wild race of fishermen, who venture far out to sea, and are considered at Lisbon as the refuse of the na- tion. From the point, a sand-bank, which is covered at flood, runs out into the sea as far as a large fortified tover, which with the opposite fortification covers the entrance into the harbour. It is properly called the fort of San Lourcn90, but generally the torre de Bugio, serving as a place to keep prisoners, till they arc scut to the Indies or Angola. To Aldea Gallega, M outa, Coiina, Casilhas, and Porto Rrandao, daily patket-boats take pas- sengers for a trifle. In windy weather, this con- veyance is very dangerous, as the stream is very rapid, and the boat-men uncommonly careless ; so ihut misfortunes frequently happen. The tnH'H uAiik of the river extends much farther iiiiu rhe sea before it forms the cape, or cabo de llocca*. Fort San Juliao, and fort San Antonio, arc the only two of any importance round Lisbon. These are sufficient to prevent a fleet from enter- ing, but, if once entered, it would have all Lisbon at its mercy, and might with perfect case level it with the ground f. Between Oeyras and the villageof Carcavelos, the sweet wine is produced which in England is called Lisbon, and in the country itself wine of Carcavclos. The vineyards are enclosed in gar- dens, on a gentle declivity toward the sea, and the uuist is generally scut to Lisbon, where it is made into wine. Two leagues beyond Belem among high hills, • The following are the princip;!! pl.iccs along this liank ; below IJci-m is a square tower callrd Torre du Bcli'm, for. tificd with rannon, which no vessel must pass till it has been TisitiMl. Near this tower are several liattcries, as niso along the bank from hence to fort San Juliao. This small irregular fort, commonly railed San CJiao. is built on a rocky point, and extremely well covers the entrance of the harbour : the passage into which is ditlinilt, being very narrow, and a bink of stones called OS cachopos, lying obliqnely before the entrance; but if the f.)rts and batteries are not very strong, nature has done much for the protection of (he harbour. A qnartor of a league front it, inland, is thf mnall town of Oej ras, auti, two leai^ues farther down, the small town of C'ascaes, rather a onsiderable and not ill- built place, standing on a strip of land under which ships niav lie. Near this town is the small fort "f San Antonio ; bat from hence a considerable way to the northward, is a high broken rock without any landing-place ; the bank to the southward is skirted with considerable sand-banks. i it is therefore soinuwliat bingular^ that both thcs in an enclosed solitary vale, is the royal resjil J of Quelus. Neither the castle, nor tlic adin j quinta are worthy of remark, but the ro'jl planted with magnolias, geraniums fron, cape, and similar plants, which here sue well. There are a few small houses round!' castle, which, however, do not form a ,j|| Here the court resides in the greatest tranquil)^ excepting on a few fixed days, which arcdawl gala: but the queen at this time, in coiiscquJ of the melancholy state of her mind, no lo,, appeared. The prince regent was luit brou, up for the throne, of which he first came toil expectation on the death of his elder i)iotlie,l prince who was much beloved and \mi\h and who died of the sinali-pox. Jlalf a league from Quelus is a market-toJ called Bella.s, with a pleasant quinta belongiJ to the Conde de Pombeiro and a very good id Beyond this place, toward Cinira, aresomeii neral spring?, near which is a house for the i ception of invalids. A (|uinta serves asapr] nienade, but very little use is made of it. "n whole coimtry roimd is basalt or linie-stoi] sand-stone also appears, and from these springs arise, which, from the opportuiiitiej] had of trying them, appeared vitriolatcd, ifit| out having much oxygen. These springs i enclosed that they may not be used tu proem abortion, as has sometimes happened. On til opposite side of Bellas, at about a lea7and 1708 may be evplained by these ciriumsiaiiw for hence appears the reason why I'ortiigal could not mil an advantageous peace with France*, Lisbon and lis hi/ Ikiuc being in fact in the hands of the Knglish, It appi singular that the Fortngueze government should ihiKsnfi its hands to be bound; yet it must be allowed that «i| great address they boun i the hands of the French diiriJ that critical period. i^>rtainly, however, to leave Port! gal, that most important country to I'.ngland, in peace i the greatest uf the follies the Frcoch at that time comuitiif LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 5(75 Lf inountatin full of peaks, forming the back- nd of a charming landscape. These are the ^ "untains of Cintra, which lie North-east and th-west, ending: in the Cabo de Uocca. ItI e (iistaiicfi from Lisbon to the market-town of If lira is f'""" leagues. The country on this side If Lisbon is far from pleasant, the road lying r Jj arid stony hills of lime-stone or sand-stone lierangeof mountains itself consists of granite I niposcd of clear white quartz, a somewhat UdU felspar, and black mica, against which j a white or foliaceous lime-stone, or a Woper stiiik-stone. The south side toward Lis- Ln is arid, naked, parched up, consists of bare lie?i)ed-up rocks, and affords a wild, desert, Idrtlrv prospect. But every thing is changed Llieii we pass round the mountain to the north Lc of this range, and enter Cintra. Here the Liole declivity is to a certain height covered with Icountry-houses and charming nuintas, forming a lihady wood of the finest trees, such as oaks of Iwrious kinds, pines, lemons, and other fruit- ijees. Every where streams issue from the rocks, land form cool mossy spots. Toward the sura- Lt of the mountain naked rocks are wildly heap- jed together. On one of the high points, floating lis it were in the air, is seen a monastery, and on laiiotlicr the ruins of a moorish castle. Where jlbequintas cease begins a thick hut low coppice lof strawberry tree, privets, buckthorn, and tlic jrare sweet willow, which, with other vegetable linliabilants of the island of Madeira, have strayed Ihithor. A line prospect of the well-cultivated hallev of Colares, of the great monastery of Ma- Ifra. and of the sea, complete the beauties of the ISCfi'it". The houses at Cintra lie dispersed in a pictu- Ircsque manner over the declivity of the mountain. \\\m also is a royal castle, formerly the residence (of several kings. Cintra is the summer residence lof the rich inhabitants of Lisbon, but especially (of the foreign merrhants, and of the Portugueze ttho are connected with foreign houses. Here [also are seen a great part of the ministry, and (other diplomatic persons of high rank. The months of Aiiu;ust and September, when every lliini^ is parched up round Lisbon, arc passed here i)n mountains that abound in water, verdure, land shade. It would not be believed that art has done anything to rend(!r this abode agreeable, [nor has it, except in forming shady quintas. The country houses arc very indifferent when compared with their inhabitants, being generally small and inconvenient for pers("^.s of rank. The promenades alone are formed by nature. Cintra is the abode of love; for in the midst of summer the coolness of the nights is charming, and the dispersion of the houses, the rocks, gardens, and woods, afford innumerable opportunities ut amorous solitude. Cintra is less celebrated in Portugueze poetry than might be expected; but foreigners love i*. very much, and have laid out the best spots. Camocns speaks of this moun- tain with a miserable conceit: " Cintra," says he, " where the concealed naiads fly from the sweet bonds to the cool fountains, where love, howevofi softly binds them in his net, and lights up flaming fire-brands even in the water." To the west of Cintra, at the foot of this range of mountains, is a market-town called Colares, celebrated for its orchards, che^nut woods, and wine. A great part of the fruit that is consumed in Lisbon comes from hence. Apples are parti- cularly abundant and good, and the best table- wine is produced there. Parties of pleasure are frequently made from Cintra to this place. Upon this lofty mountain, to the westward, is a small monastery of capuchin'-, built between rocks, and called Cork monastery, the rocks being cased with cork. The loneliuer,? of the scene, the naked and dreary range of mountains, from which the spectat»)r has an extensive view of the sea, and this poor little monastery, sometimes entice fo- reigners away from Cintra; and hence it has un- deservedly acquired its reputation. Its elevation and vicinity to the sea cause a great accumulation of clouds and moisture, to remedy which the coating of cork upon the walls is very useful. In winter anow is not unfrequent here, though it never lies. Toward Cabo de Rocca the moun- tains become lower and lower, ending in a flat, desert, naked, lonely ridge, which forms the cape. Near the extremity is a light-house, and not far from it a small chapel. On this naked plain the storms rage with great violence, the sea bursts with vehemence against the rocks, and iu very deep in their vicinity. From hence are seen the mountains of Mafra; and opposite is the cor- responding cape, Cabo de Espichel. Farther to the northward is another chain of mountains, parallel to those of Cintra, with which it unites by high and detached mountains, the Ctibe^a de Montachiquc ^1! 8", '■; 1,: ■ y ■ .-: ■If'! M 366 LINK'S TRAVEI.S IN PORTUGAL Montachique and others. From the sea these mountains appear like a lofty amphitheatre. This chain of mountains consists of thick and foliaceous lime-stone. On the part whicli toward the sea is the castle of Mafra with itsim mense monastery. y .1 ! SECTION VII. Journey to St. Ubes, ^ilcacer do Sal, Gvandola — Description of the Scrra da Arralnda — St, [j , I — Journey into the J^'orthcm Provinces — From Lisbon to Citldas dc Rainlia. ' IN April, 1798, we crossed the river to Couna, which is generally considered a« a distance of three leagues, and thence proceeded to the small town of Azeytao. The road lies chiefly across sandy heaths and pine-woods, the soil hciug better cultivated only round the town. There are many cork and olive-trees, and at length vineyards and Helds. The town consists of small houses, has a manufactory of cottons, a dyehousc, five hundred and tifty-two houses, and two thou- sand three hundred and forty-two inhabitants, or less than five to a house. I cannot forbear here to introduce a remark on the population of Portugal. According to the last lists, the present minister of police found the number of houses in Portugal to be seven hundred and forty-four thousand nine hundred and eighty. In Lisbon and Oporto alone can we reckon five or more inhabitants to each house, in' the maritime towns generally about five, but in the inl.uid towns certainly not so many. The small houses of these country towns are occupied only by one family, frequently consisting only of a man, his wife, and one child; nor are the common people very prolific, not having the means of supporting many children. Of this Azeytau is an example. It is a manuiacturing place, which also carries on a considerable trade in wine and oil, being situated between the two harbours of Lisbon and St. I.^bes; vet the popu- lation is very small, not being snliieient for the harvest, for a hundred and eighteen labonrers come annually from Aveiro in the province of Ceira, to assist them. Close to Aldea dos Mouros rise pleasant hills covered with a grove of laurel and laurustitms, upon which are also the remains of a ruined castle. Here the Serra da Arrabida appears in front to the southward rather as a high, steep, and naked range of mountains. The valley between these hills and the mountains is a heath of tlio \)^,[[(\ kind, entirely covered with beaiififul (;il| ,jj,;j and other rare plants. The Serra dii ArrabidJ rises to the eastward, at Palmella, vervraniilyl out of the sandy plain, takes a due vvpstcrlvdi.l rection, forming the Cabo Espiehel, aiul cniisisJ ofa grey dose limestone which breaks iiishivfrj The part beyond Aldea dos Mouros is the liioli est. On the north side the mountains are sleesl and not covered with rocks, but, like niostliinc.! stone mountains, with small loose stones, wMM render the ascent extremely diflicult; nor is any! fine and luxurious vegetation seen, excepting ijij the hollows where the brooks take llieir ris.f The south side rises strait out of the sea, is en-| tirely covered with Cabo, forms the centre of a building, liii which long wings extend on each side, liistiiig of two stories, and containing a great 111) small aparflneuta, furnished with wooden Vrs and tables, but without windows, for the (of (he devout, who come hither as pi'grims. Itlie beginning of May, every year, thefe is a ptt'wioii.ol them from Belem to rorto Brandao, thciice through the dessert heaths aud pinc- .01, 11. No. XCIV. ♦ III Portiigucze Sctiival. The woods ; and sometimes the prince of Ilrasil takes part in these pilgrimages, passing his time in hunting. This cape indeed is the plea.santest in Portugal, the country round is well cultivated, single houses being every where interspersed, the hills cheerful and gay, aud the naked summit adorned with the above mentioned building. Here also the u|)per stratum is entirely lime- stone, and beneath is a stratum of saud-stone, in which, especially on the declivity toward tlie sea, we found abnmlance'of charcoal. Under this is linu'-stone with substances appearing like petritications, as also happens at Porto Brandao and even on the north side of the Tagus round Lisbon. St. llhcs* is situated at (he extremity of the Serra da Arrabida, on the south side, where the country is very pleasant through the variety it exhibits To the westward the mouth of the Sado is 30 wide, that it appears a considerable bay formed by a strip of land on the opposite side, which, with this high range of mountains, also constitute the narrow entrance of the har- bour. As far as the eye can see, a high steep declivity, covered with thickets and woody hollows, extends along the sea. To the north- east, toward the charming mountain of Palmella, is a fertile spot watered by brooks and adorned with quintas, plantations of orange-trees, and vineyards. BlacK heaths and pine-woods to the southward and eastward increase by contrast the charms of this rich prospect. A fort, called San Philipe, covers the harbour, and a tower fortified with cannon, called Torre de Outao, together with a light-house, are situated in the hollow of the mountains, besides which several bastions are raised here and there. The entrance is also difficult, and the channel very narrow, so that the fortifications may fully answer their purpose. The town is small, con- sisting of narrow dirty streets and small houses; but the strand is broad and neat, being adorned with superior houses occupied by the rich inha- bitants, who mostly reside in this part, and pro- vided with a good pavement along the water's edge. The walls of the old town and its gates still remain. St. Ubes iy *he seat of :i corre<>-edr and contains five churches and nine religious houses; a large number in proportion to not much above two t'lousand housee. The trade of St. Ubes consists in wine, which 5 A i, ancient name was Cofobrlca. T. if I > T 1 M ^ iAi 4 I I. '1 } - ^1 U\ • r t ^ U' 'I A i, f! 368 LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL m' 'Ik 1 Bi'- ,r,t^ i \r- J^ % k-^ 'M- .*'" 1 §^- .\iaatli m %-,:■'. (wlk R w<- I. Ba.*. 111 ill 4'} is here very good, and various kinds of it are ex- ported. Good muscadcl is here also produced. Oranges are likewise exported ; but the best trade of St. Ubcs is in salt, which is taken principally by Danish and Swedish ships. Tile salt-pans lie in great numbers along the Sado and its branches, being called in Portugueze marinhas. They are dug square, about three feet deep, and salt- water is introduced on one side from the sea, at flood, through canals which extend in inntimc- rable branches, and are shut when the pans are full*. The fishery of St. Ubes was formerly much celebrated, but has since greatly fallen off. In former times the towns of Sinos, St. Ubcs, and Alcacer were much connected in the fishing trade f. Opposite St. Ubes, on the narrow strip of land that forms the entrance of the harbour, are the remains of an ancient city called Troya. Many walls are still seen, and a number of square pavements, formed of small angular stones bound together with cement, being probably either the sites of houses or the courts belonging to them. Similar ornamental paved courts arc found in the remains of old moorish buildings^. We ascended the Sado to Alcacer do Sal ( or • The water is often previously collected in large re- servoirs, called governos, from which it is .afterwards distributed into the marinhas, where, being evaporated, the salt is collected in the month of June, and kept cither in wooden shcdii or in heaps, which arc piotected against the rain by riiiihcs. Of this salt a considerable quantity seemed to be in store. It is large>grained, becomes but little moist in the air, and excels in purity the marine salt collected in other provinces of the south of Europe, or in other parts of Portugal. Thus a quantity of salt is pre. ))arcd on the banks of the Tagus above Lisbon, round Av'ciro, \;c. The salt.tradc to Brasii is farmed by the /Government to a merchant. + la 1796, the following ships entered and sailed from the port of St. Ubeii, viz. scvcniy.onc Americans in, seven- ty.two out; four from iiremcn in, three out; a hundred and forty-five Danish in, a hundred and forty.sevcn out ; one Spanish inwards; ten Hamburgers in, six out; forty- six English in, forty.livc out; eight Lulicck in, seven out; eight Oldenburg in, six out; thirterii I'ortngueze in, nine- teen out; sixty-eight Prussian in aiul out; four from Paponburg in, three out; two R " fll short every article of furniture must be provij The company who com* to bathe always li. private houses. Such are the accornmodalf"! prepared for the rich merchants and piii,ci!°I nobility of Lisbon, who visit Caldas twic year; namely in May and September. Ther*!!! pass the hot season at Cintra, and travel fr' I thence to Culdus; for which reason the comDa*! are frequently. more .brilliant in autuimi ti,gj •J spring*. 1 , '*' • ft" j •■• ir-* :* :;f.,,■.•» ,1 SECT^ION viir.' f U hi> 'li-r ,••,>!> II .i(iiiji,»< vjifll h;ji. • """,.•"' ,;(.. i From Caldas to Coimbra, through Alcoha^n and Butnlha — Coimhra the Backwardness of Portugucze Literature, The Univcrsiti/~Causci , WE set oif from Caldas for San Martinho, a small market-town two< leagues from Caldas, over low bills, and through a sandy country, and pine-woods. Close to tlie sea, risie hills consisting of sand-stone and lime-stone with a small quantity of gypsum. Between these is the narrow entrance into the harbour, which is pretty large, almost completely a- round basin, which has a very Hue appearance; but only small ships can enter, and wc counted but three two- masted vessels. Most of the inhabitants are sup- ported by the fishery, anif curry on a coasting trade. • '" To the eastward of San Martinho, a chain of sand-stoae hills runs parallel to the sea. The summits and western declivities are naked, but the eastern sides are covered with frequent and * In the middle of thU ;)Uco over the warm sprii^, is a apaciuus and handsome batliing boust-, fourulud iit tlic reign of tlio late king, and clo.su to it a hospital for poor patients. Besides (he sprinj; ii.sed for drinkiiiir, three others suppfy four baths; that for the inuu W thirty-six feet long by nine broad, and two feet ci;^ht inches deop. The soil is covered with a white clay andVa-^hed sand. The company undress behind a curtain, put on halhiii^ cloaths, and .sit upon the ground in the bath, so that the water reaches their neck. There are frequently twelve patients in the bath at the same dine, and though the water is coustaiiitly (lowing it U ui)- pha.'^ant to he obliged to batlii; in company, especially to thecc who come last, to whoin the water arrires after Wi|!ih> in^ the rest. It is also uophasaut that strangers are a4- niitteJ, Nothing howevtr is paid for bathing, OKcept a iiiiall preRent to the atteiid.iiit.s. I'iie poor are not snti'ured to bathe till about noon, when the other company are kodv. The reiit of tlic baths, even those appropriated to the ladies, considerable pine-woods. The country ahobe*! comes more uiountairmus. At the northern ei.| tromity, concealed in a valley, so that it canoulil be seen on a very near approach, is the rich Ber-I nardine monastery of Alcoba.i->- I arc rej{Mlatutl in a similar manner, except that the watpriil the balh for men is the hottest and of the strongest (lualiirf bcinp from S'J-" to O.'i" of Faronheit, (from ?0* to'iT'^ Reanmur). The watec from .ilt the springs joins uiidttq a mill near (he bathing house. On ei(teriuK fh»a lioa^e the company come to a lurijcllooij which scrres for a promenade :ifter bathing, and isgi'iieralljl full of pe:)ple rnnninit to and fro with great violi-nro, HmI also is an apoihecaryS shop, aiitl in the back.^^Tuunil thel spring used for drinking, the warnith of which h l/l'ull Fareiihpit. ,■< i The country roui)4 Is wclj cultivated, but sandy mil of {liucwoods. The place ili|elf is situated on the Mc^ttrgl brow of liilU fcrymuchiiatteuvd, condiitinx or»softbro%ii.r ish saod-stono containi.ig Iron, and pcob»bTy cotc'iik cotll from the cvmbvstiiQA p( wUc^ ti^ Itcitl of tiiQ \vaiur iiii;| ariio. ,. ., „_. ... ^.,,i, .lri»ft-,t^ and t\tl; IlitlttlC l>r tll>. ri41II>>ilo ..••.r^pii. of X>omb«l^ vhich i.i a neat hut not a striking cdilice) are the principal objects that deserve notice. Here the inurquis of Punibul ended his days, as it were in banishment. Siuiilur hills to those from Leiria to Pombalj continue from thence to Condcixa, though not so entirely barren, and better cultivated. \Ve also came to a market-lown called Atouguia, a plirc of some consideration, but consisting of small houses. At length we approached the high naked mountains to the eastward, which extend hither, and consist of a whitish-grey lime-stone. In some parts is found red iron-ore, which might be very well smelted into iron. On this road we quitted the province of Estremadura and entered that of Beira. Condeixa, which is live leagues from Pombal, is situated near that chain of mountains in a very pleasant and cultivated country. The place it- self is larger than Pombal, gay and lively, and many persons of rank reside there. The oranges of Condeixa are celebrated for their excellence and cheapness, and it is called a fruit-basket; a pleasing nanje for a pleasant place. The young Avomen here appeared extremely beautiful and freer than they generally are in small Portugueze towns, the cause of which maybe the vicinity of the students of Coimbra. Here also the ancient Colibria or Colimbria, from which Coimbra took its name, is said to have stood. A fertile hilly country watered by brooks, well peopled and cultivated, continues as far as Co- imbra, which is but two leagues from Condeixa. Coimbra, like almost all great cities in Portu- gal, is built on the declivity of a hill, which in this instance is considerably steep; only a small part of the town being situated on the plain. The Mondego in its wide bed winds along in front close to the hill, and over it is a long stone bridge. The traveller does not perceive the town till he descends into the valley; but then it forms a fine and surprising view, in the midst of a charming country, which it adorns with innu- merable monasteries and churcbe*, along the de- clivity of the mountain. But he hai no sooner entered Coimbra than all his expectations are re- versed: fur .the streets are extremely narrow. crooked, and full of angles, ill-paved, verydifi.j and frequently so steep that it is difficult i climb them. There is a single broad street od «i««p|.iinr ViM» *v(>n that is not inhabited bv ill rich, because it is deemed unhealthy m siimm 1 The Mondego swells in winter, overHiws'J banks, and in summer leaves marshes, which in all hot countries, produce unwhohsu,! vapours. There is not a single open place iink whole town, nor any promenade, bit such nature offers. The great quinta of the AugHsiin. is alone used as sucTi, and those who wish tn ■ Indian laurels from Goa {laiirus indicn) intCiJ greatest perfection, should visit this spot. ){.J this is not all. In no large town throuffhou Portugal are the inns so bad, strangers beiii»| lodged in wretched apartments with miserablel beds and food, the dressing of which reqiiiresHiJ appetite of a herboriser to overcome. Hence peJ haps it is, that hU travellers hurry through thJ place, observe it but cursorily, and give Httlcorn information relative to its very celebrated uiilver.! sity. The farther northward the traveller proceed,! the better disposed and more industrious are M common people, and robberies and thefts irt| here very uncommon. Neither sex however iJ beautiful; and the female far from pleasin?! compared with their neighbours of Condeiui The lower classes of women wear on their head!! a long black cloth. Co-nihra is a very old city, and had siifferedl many sieges, previous to the time when Countl Henrique/, tcok possession of Portugal. Thel towers and walls still remain; but in other re<| spects^the place is quite open. Since the jeatl 14-19, Coimbra has declined. It is however the] see of a bishop, who is always count of Arganil, not only in name but in reality; also of a corre- gedor, a provedor, and a juiz de fora. It con- i sists of something more than three thousand houses, being divided into eight parishes, andj has no less than eight monasteries and eightei endowments. The most important object at Coimbra, is tliel university founded at Lisbon by Dom Diniz in I 1291, but transferred hither after a period of! sixteen years. It was afterward again removed to Lisbon; but in 1537, John III again trans- ferred it to Coimbra, where it has remained. Under Pombai its regulations were considerably I altered, LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 37.1 llcrcd, and certainly much to its advantage. Pi it reeulution^ urc not all, and will not supply ll'ie wiint of an animatinf]^ spirit ; for where that IkiN, the sciencfH cannot flourish. They require libera! funds, encouragement, and a just estima- (iiaof their important uses; means whereby an iiii'erior constitution will produce more efrect, L,,„ (lie best n:', Illations in the world. But as liie .isocnt is not tuu laborious, will here find the ruhest variety. Opposite to Coimbra, on the bank of the river, ih the Q.uinta dun laf:;n' mas, or garden of tears, with a fountain of the same name, which rises at the foot of a hill shaded by line Portnpjueze cypresses*. The mountains round Coimbra consist partly 'of a coarse-grained sand-stone, 'Alternated with a grey lime-stone. At a distance began high slate- •inoiintains, and here also a yellowish grey ar- gillaceous slate changes to a sand-slate, and this to a mica-slate, which ends in a granite. The flora of this part is uncommonly beautiful. On (he K late-mountains grow the plants of Entre- Douro-c-Minho. In the pine-woods and sand- mountains are found the plants of the Portugueze heaths, and on the lime-stone mountains an abundance of orchidcs, and of the plants of the Serra da Arrabida. When we came to the oak- woods, we fancied ourselves in the smaller forests of Germany. The land is well cultivated; better than else- where, except in Minho. Much oil in particular is produced here. The olive-tree, indeed, is very common all over Portugal, from the north- ern frontier mountains of the serra de Gerez to Algarvia, but most abounds in these midland parts, where the traveller may sometimes pursue. ♦ Tmdition says that Dona Inez de Castro lived (hero, and was there mi.Nlered. This lady, who was a Castiliaii " .11 by IV. birth, Dom Pedro sun and heir apparent to Alphonso iorcd, and is said tu have secretly married, at Braganza. He gave her this spot for her residence, frequently visitrd her, and she bore him three -sons and a daughter. The passion of the prince at length transpired ; and his enraged father, instigated by his courtiers, came sudddculy, while the prince was bunting, from Montemor o velho, not far from Coimbra, where he happened tostop, and caused her to be murdered. When Dom Pc^lro came to the throne, he gave orders to disinter the object of his passion, and with hit own hands piacad the crown on her remains. He was his way during whole dnya without rocii|i>, i other tree. ThiM'C are several varieties nf it%! in general the Portuguc/e oil is heiUr (liami I of Spain, though the olives are siniillcr. Ti I olive-tree is planted by sets (titnrlio.'s), or jt I grafted on llie wild olive ('araiiihuiciro !, y%<\ is by no means searce in many parts cl" Portup.] The latter method alVordi a more (Inriiblc stem The sets are cut olf from old trees in autuinn i f''om which time they arc kept in moist ftarth'l and arc act from the begintiing «f •Isniiurytothfl end of April, according to the sidiHlion oI'ilI soil. In the first years they are hoed, to dcslrovl weeds, and the land is sowed with corn; buttlilj method of cultivation is not common except inl Algurvia. While the trees are young Hie ^juppf. fluous branches are cut off; but the olivc-irfc| bears very late, tut till its fifteenth year. Hcncfl appears how injurious war is to this branch ofl agriculture, and how horrid the revenge recordiii I in sacred history of cutting down the eiiomv'il olive-trees. The olives are ripe in Diveinberl and January, at which time men climb thctreeil and beat them with long poles, while the ojiveil are received in extended cloths, or gathered iin I from the ground. It would certainty be bctttrl were the olives plucked by the liaiid as in thJ south of France. Some press them immediateljl on their being brought home in baskets; otheril shoot them down in heaps, throwing salt between I them, and suRering them to ferment in ordertol produce more oil, of which however the qualitfl is inferior. The prt^sses are worked by oxen;! but the want of cleanliness, both in these inacliinesl and throughout the whole process, coiitributeil much to render the quality of the oil much worse) than it might be. In this country, where oil isl used ntntcad of butter with all kinds of food, andl fat n burnt in large quantities in lainp «" object of great consumption, and is cd ffoi* fco''"^'"* '"t" *'•* other provinces. r'portuj?«»'2e pickle only the ripe brown olive; t at p"<"^ **'''•" *'"' '"""S® Spanish unripe olives ■"neare ocen, as they are every where preferred. IL wood of the olive-tree might be very useful, F. -yellow, close-grained, and beautiful; but 1 only employed as fuel, the woods from Brasil 'i„g superseded all other kinds of limber. [The olive-tree is subject to two diseases, the I (.giicd a ^(ffn, arises in dump situations, (tivelling lip both leaves and fruit ; the other, L||gj /VnvJi>f»M (or rust), is very prevalent in Ce midland and southern part of Portugal. In L disorder the leaves shrivel, are covered be- L||, \vith a black clammy substance, and a Lt number of insects belonging to the family coccus, but not yet established as a separate lecies. Hence the tree sickens, and bears smaller (lit and in less quantity. Complaints are every (here made of this disorder, which employs the intion of the learned and of economists as much I the dry-rot or the caterpillars, railed nonncn- occupy the German naturalists and Lrnters. Hitherto no other remedy has been licovered than cutting off the infected branches, llijch is too severe a mode of cure ; for probably Ls insect, like all such animals, has its period, Ld would at length cease of itself. In the eco- nmical treatises of the academy, vol. I. p. 8, Vandelli has given his opinion, tliat the insect is a tens, and advises, besides cutting off the branch, jsprinkle the tree with salt-water. In vol. III. ),')'(, another method is propoK>d on this sub- tct by Antonio Suarcs Barbosa, who lirst gives lie natural history of the insect, and then pro- Ms to show that tiie black clammy substance lixsnot arise from the insect, but from an over- Powofsap (clni-iiomniiiaj. Round Coimbra arc grown various kinds ot ulicat, white, red, and summer-wheat (trigo tre- na), but the lattice only when the Mondego, as kftcn happens, rots the seed in the ground It sown from November to March, at three feilFerrnt times. When it grows in fields amid tlivc-trees, the ground is turned in winter, ifn(»t in May, and it is ploughed only once in October ifter the first rains. The plough used here has Iwo wheels, a share, a mould-board, and a Icoulter, which may be raised and lowered. Vol, H. No. XCV. Barley is also sown; but no oAts, and little rye. In general, Coimbra is obliged to import wheat and barley from other provinces. Rice is grown in the marshes along the Mond<>go, but not in any considerable quantity. Maize or Indian-corn is very commonly culti- vated here, and throughout Ueira, where it is produced in larger quantities than in the south- ern provinces, in which the soil is too dry, and too light. The land is ploughed fourteen days before sowing time, which continues from April to the end of May. When the young plants have four or five leaves, the ground, is hoed, the superfluous plants destroyed, and immediately afterwards the earth is heaped up round those that remain. In the fields it is harrowed four- teen days after, by which the leaves are torn off, and the young plants frequently quite covered with earth, whicli makes thti.i thrive better. The maize when ripe is cut, and great numbers live on the bread made of it, called hroa, which is of a fine yellow colour, but heavy and sweetish^ The maize bread in the south of France is fur lighter, but much dryer. Maize also affords good fodder for cattle, and is grown round Coimbra in such abundance that great quantities are exported to other provinces. It is called milho, and according to the Portugueze writers was first imported from Guinea. Millet (fanicum miUaccnm) is called niHho miudo, and itr^Iian pannicle (panicum Italicum) milho pairifo. The oranges produced here are excellent, and are exported to foreign countries, even froui the small harbour of Figueira at the mouth of the Mondego. The wine is moderate, yet is sent into other provinces. Garden-fruits are pro- duced in greut abundance, and of a very good quality, especially common beans, and another kind of beans, chWcd feijao frmjdinlio (monk's beans), which are met with in great quantities all over the kingdom. These beans much re- semble the common beans, but are smaller, and do not taste quite so good; yet the cultivation of them is said to be very productive. Some ilax is al»io grown round Coimbra. Notwithstanding this good cultivation, the conmion people are very poor, the cause of which strikes the eye of the traveller, even bcfere he approaches the town, in the number of mona.s- leries and churches it contains. The 1;nvn itself is supported by the university, its trade being 5 C inconsiderable;^ P!i' If; •i i . 'fl ^»^ '■.liaiwsssiijpwTBo-t" 5^e LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAT. inconsiderable. The Mondego is a bad river; for in winter it inundates the coiintrv, and in Slimmer creeps slowly along its bed. This is a gTcat obstacle to navigation, and though many proposals have been made to render the river navigable, they have never been adopted, and at its mouth is so dangerous a bar, that only small vessels can enter. Along the whole coast from .Buarcos to Figueira are numerous traces of coal in the same manner as at Cabo Espichel; but at that time they were pot worked. In the town and surrounding country are manufactured a little linen, and in the latter thin woollens. In ch people. The river Vouga flows through tiie town where it is still very narrow, but is adorned with a handsome quay. Near the town it divides in two branches, one to the left and southw:>rd running to the sea, the other northward to Ovnr. Its trade is inconsiderable, only small boats coming to the iown ; nor indeed could any but filial' ships pass the bar, which is continually nhifti ig. Tk»e fishery alone is worthy of notice; for Aveiro chiefly supplicj the province of Btiira with 8 irdinhas Large troops of r.u'.es are con- tinual y seen carrying them into the higher pnrts of the province. Much salt is also here produced, tbough not 80 good as at St. Ubcs and Juisbou. No town in Portugal is surrounded b^Jso,,! tensive plains, and so large marshes of fja water. Hence the town is very unhealtU which is immediately perceived in the hagJ pale countenances of its inhabitants. Affn * very common there, and, as in all warm counl. tries, more dangerous than in cold. Putrid did orders ate also not unfrequent. We went from hence by water to Ovar. TlJ arm of the Vouga, which is propcrl}- a lake i pretty narrow for three leagues, then boioiliel much broader during a league, forming a ij lake, and at length ends in a narrow channel] league long, which ceases "lose to Ovar. water is nearly freab, though wc were often onl) separated from the sea by downs. Watcr-conf veyance in small boats on a shallow stream where in many parts vessels are pushed on li poles, through a flat marshy country, is vfrf unpleasant. Ovar is a considerable town or villi containing one thousand three hundred liou!( many of them large and handsome. Wc with a very well cultivated country, audaiac thod of husbandry, similar to that we afterward saw in Minho. Ilore we lirst met with nicadoiil formed by art, and remarked the English tfj grass(lolium percnne) which is sown here, an! in the*e warm climates is an annual, wlieieaso the con{.u..y the shrubs of southern diaiatisaij annual 1 in the north. Of this the drought iMlij cause by drying up the roots in sunuiier. Not i'lr from Ovar, and near a village callei Sobral, began mountains of argillaceous slilJ which soon gives way to a mica-slate, and ioj troduces a high range extending with sta crowded moui:fains along the south sideoftlil Douro as far as Lamego and beyond. It is seel in the distance even at Aveiro, but sinks as itapj proaches the sea. I.<(^re begins the province « Entre-Douro-t -Minho, called in th^ countrjfoj shortness Minho, a very i^mall part beinf^slfuatt/ on the other side of th'' Douro. Here the bill bingers of a better cultivittion appear: uotwillJ standing the barrenness of the mountains, tn vallies are cultivated with maize, cole, and ilai^ the hills are covered with pine-woods, t vine climbs up the hedges and round the tn The villages, which at lirst arc brd, gradu»llj improve and become more nun ■" jus, and tbf traveller suddenly Hnds himself surrounded 1)1 detached houses; till he arrives^ without pen ci'ivini f, T.TNK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 377 w'ving ifi in a considerable place called Villa- ova do Porto, where he descends a steep street I the bank of the Douro, and beholds on the pnosite declivity the city of Oporto. Excepting Lisbon, Oporto is the largest city 1 Portugal; the chief town of a corregimento, juitheseatof a corregedor, a provedor, and a L|j(gfy governor, being a place of arms; it is hjo tlie sec of a bishop who chiefly resides at llczanfrio. 'I'he population is about three hun- Ired thousand, as the corregedor himself assured L Oporto has four suburbs, seven parishes, twelve religious houses. On one side the leraainsof the walls and gates still exist; other- wise the town is quite open and has no fortitica- Ln It is also the seat of the high tribunal for .northern provinces. The quay on the river is built without tlie nstart; on one side is a street, the other side is fcallfd and raised, though merely for the pur- ose of rtaking ship's cables fast. From the Iriud rises a broad well-paved street with cause- lays on the sides, leading to an equally hand- Ue oblique street. The rest of the streets along lie declivity of the hill ?.re narrow, crooked and irtv; but upon the hill we again found many ine broad straight streets, w ith a great many new ind handsome houses. We seemed almost to ive quitted Portugal, and to be suddenly trans- uded to England; so regular, so light, and leatatc all the buildin.«;s. Gem. rally speaking, jlporto is without doubt the cleanest town in Portuga' The steep declivity of the hill on Jrhich die city is built, readers walking and tding on horseback or in carriages more laborious han in Lisbon. On the cast side of the town are liouses built again-st so steep a part of the declivity Ivertlie stream, that they can only be entered Ly epscut out of tlic rock. This inconvenience is hdeed compensated, at least to a stranger, by the lomar.tic Mtuation th^y enjoy, and the prospect V the opposite biuik with its towns, villages, DODisteries, and pine-woods. At Oporto the manners of society arc taken jrom the English, who are here luotc numerous od considerable^ in proportion to the other ricli I* In 1706 the following ships rntcrod and .oailctl out oi* lis port: ten Americans In and six out; from Bremen two kind out; fifty-one Danish in, fifty. two out; two Spanish handout; thirty.gix Ilamburghetic in, thirty.four out; ■i;hty.Gight English ia, ninvty.nino out j four from Lu* inhabitants, than at Lisbon. They have a kin4 of casino in a handsome building, which is ex- tremely well regulated, and very much con- tributes to bring foreigners together. Among the English merchants are several who possess both knovv!"'lge and the love of science. A short time ago a considerable play-house was built at a large expense, but the architect has unfortunately so contrived it, that the au- dience in the bo.xes cannot hear. In oth.^r re- spects it highly merits approbation. Here Por- tugueze plays are performed by tolerably good actors. Thus it is not impossible that Oporto may soon have a better theatre than Lisbon. Another uncommonly extensive building, the royal hospital, was at this time in the same ni- linished state as when Murphy saw it. The trade of Oporto, which ii well known to be chiefly in wine, has sufl'ered much in conse- quence of the war, The vicinity of Vigo in G;dicia, where the French privateers take re- fuge, have kept this place in great aw(!, and the harbour of Oporto is very ill-udapted to be a station for ships of war, on account of the diiHcuIty of its entrance. Hence French priva- teers have almost always been hovering within sight of it; and this circumstance has ruined many houses in Oport(,, which can be said of very few at Lisbon. In front of the town the river is very deep ; two-masted vessels can come to the town itself, those witli three masts within >i quarter of a league, and the great Brasil ships alone unloaded their cargoes in the road^. The mountains suddeiMy cea.se toward the coast, and the land is lower at the mouth of the river; but here and tbore rocks rise out of the saiid, rendering the entrance into the harbour extremely narrow uud vay dangerous. The sea also is very boisterous on ihesz coasts during the rainy season, and the river ver} rapid. The sand which the streams brings with it is retained b}' the rocks, and thus more and more chokes the passage; so that, unless great and powerful means are employed, the harbour will at length Lc rendered totally useless. Endeavours, how- ever, are made to keep the stream in one place^ beck in and out; thirty.fivc Portugiieze in, forty.two out ; twenty. seven Prussian in, twcntv-six out; one from Pa- penbnrgh in auu out; thirty. two Swedish in, and twtnty- nino out. From which it appears that the Knglish trade tu Oporto far cicc Js that of ail >ther natiou . n 10 , ■ 'I * : r ;m. U'i^\ * I n' III mil— iiBiiwinii 378 LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. It 80 as to wasli the sand away ; and something has already been etFected by labour. On the whole, however, little has been done, and much more can iid must be performed, if this important harbour is to be preserved. It is a fearful sight to behold a ship, whesi the wind is at all strong, winding its way through this narrow part. A small fort called San Joao de Fez, near which is a small market-town, covers the entrance; besides this, on the coast to the northward is a bastion on the beach; opposite to which on the south side is also a very small fort, called Santa Cate- rina, with a few other batteries. Immediately opposite to Oporto, on the south bank of Douro, is the appearance of a town not much smaller tlian Oporto itself. To the west- ward, along the declivity of a hill, are a number of detached houses forming the market-town of Gnya, a place remarkable both for its situation and name. Mere in former times a place called Calc, of which the ancients speak, is said to have stood; but Oporto being afterwards built, as heing more convenient for ships, by the greater depth of the water along that bank, it was called Partus Cale, or the harbour of Cale, whence was derived Fnrtucal, and at length Portugal. Thus from thib place the whole kingdom afterwards received its name according to this highly pro- bable etymology, of which Resende is the au- thor. Portus Cale was at length called o Porto (the harbour), which name the town of Oporto afterwards received. Advancing to the east- ward, we came to a considerable and populous town or villa, called Villsnova do Porto, inha- bited by the lower classes of people, whereas lul rich more generally live in Oporto itself, O tween Villanova and Gaya, on a stniill nl I along the bank of the river, are the iinnie! ■ magazines where wine is kspt till exported monastery on a high, and, toward tlu rivel very steep hill, completes the circle of ty bustling view to the eastward. We were toll that the number of inhabitants at Gaya and VilJ lanova, including the detached houses reckonJ as part of both places, was about twenty thoJ sand. The climate of Oporto is in winter damn an fog&.y '" consequence of its mountainous an, woody situation; whence also the air is coolei than elsewhere, though it seldom freezes, OJ the contrary in summer ihe heat is great botliii this narrow valley and the town, which is situalci on a southern declivity. Here, as also aljn?t lower coasts of Portugal, regular vnds i ' in summer, viz. in the mornii;jj thtj -i which toward noon veers to the soutii,i.:ir(3, flm then to the west; which confers n;any advantaw on navigation. The soil though well cultivatj^ is not productive; but oranges are broii? from Braga and Barcelos, wine from the llnrjfl DoTiro, and, in short, all those produdioiL which bear the name of this town are notfrorj ; and it though thence exported. The garden round Oporto are beautiful and pleasant, anl the plants of the Cape and of New Hollanl grow in the open air, with gooseberries, ciirranli and other fruit,^ of tiic colder countries uf Euroix which are not seen round Lisbon. SECTION X. Journei/ to Braga — Province of Entre-Douro-e-Minho. CLOSE to Villanova do fameli^ao six leagues from Oporto, behold one of the beautiful Minho-vallies in which that place k situated. Here small fields of maize, and even of rye and barley, but more rarely of wheat, are surronnded by high German oaks, chesnuts, and poplars, artificially watered by brooks, evory tree sup- porting a vine which spreads over its crown, and not unfrequently reaches the summit of the higli oaks; while a cool refreshing shade every where abounds, adorning a cultivated populous coui try, and every valley resembles a fairy-land ii closed between rocky desert mountains. Minho is the most populous of all the pn vinces of Portugal. Within a space of eigliti leagues in length and eleven in breadth, it tains three cities, twenty-five villas, nine dred thousand inhabitants, and two hundred ai twenty-three thousand four hundred and ninrt; five houses. The whole province is a collectii I'di LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. I f oranite-niountains, the s. .=1 in the vnllies being f , If. fertile, and the eminences bare fertile, anrt tne eminences uare granite- but on the other hand extremely well and therefore well cultivated. The oiif iiiul> ''dustry of t'''^ inhabitants is every where appa- |'"if they dig with great labour for water, so [J! J J stranger would suppose the ground to he Ifull of shafts of mines, and they divide the water illicv fi'' ' with great care among the fields and Ijiieadows. Maize is chiefly cultivated, being lliocd twice a year, first when four or five inches lliiffli, »"** afterwards when the ears are set. IThe vine yields a very bad wine resembling Ivincgar, the grapes that arc sliaded by the tops lof the trees not having sufficient sun. ■ Except some rich monasteries, very few large Liftesare met with in this province; but hence \{\it peasants thrive t'.e better, which ought to Iconvince every Portugueze, that under such an lorder of things alone an adequate population is cticable. Yet the increase of this industrious lind clicarfnl people is too great for their unfruit- Iful soil, and a great number annually emigrate, Ijome with an intention of finally settling else- Iwhere, and others to acquire property and re- |(i.rn. These men help the farmers of other pro- jvimcs in their harvest and other branches of jhiisbawdry, travelling about in considerable num- {bfr« under the command of a captain, ond living jiii lints. In (his manner the inhabitants even of ||he northern part of Bcira round Aveiro, &c. leinisirate On quitting the valley of Villanova, we again IcrMsed arid mountains covered with heath before Iwecmne ♦<> the valley of Braga. Here we saw to jdif : i ;, ' -ird the high rang-e of mountains that (ill. ■ :'l ifcal from Galicia, called the Serra (' I ' w'h its high pointed summits. The jritvoi k if 1. i« situated in abroad 0|)en vale, as Itlic Minhi!-v; lies generally are, and like them cultivated and shaded by trees. Here arc many [corktrees, ami close to the town orangf-gardens. The small rivers (' vado and Destc scarcely de- |«ervc the name, being mere brooks. Braga, the * Among the nlijoct!* of cnrio^it) hero \% the largo old I ^utliir.biiilt cathedral with its an(i(|iiities and treasures ; :' 'I the chtirch and monustety of St. Frtictuoso, containing ; raciiloiis pictflrP of the Tirgin, and rith in treasures and ii , stand on n hill without the town, so situatetl as to 1 .ru a y'in' oujixl, as seen fron» a broad handsome street. Thj oiigiii of Braga n lost in remote antiquity ; the Romans I ctlled it Augusta Bracharorum, and Runian coins arc often Vol. II. No. XCV. chief town of the province, is under the arch- bishop of that place, who enjoys a revenue of above a hundred thousand crusades; and appbintii judges and two tribunals, the one spiritual, the other temporal; so that this is the only city where the king does not appoint a corregedor, O' a juez de fora. Braga contains about thir- teen thousand inhabitants, five parishes, and seven monasteries. Several of the streets are brond, light, and open, but luost of the houses ace small, as in all inland towns in Portugal''^. A league from Braga we came (o a .small vil- lage called Ponte do Porto, ou account of a stouc bridge there, over (he Cavado. This valley is extremely pleasant and charming: the distance appears like a thick wood of high trees, though these trees surround fields and gardens, The houses, which are dispersed and entbotsc led in thick shade, are concealed from the sight; but the number of well-dressed persons, and even of young ladies, we frequently met, an- nounced their vicinity. We passed over granite- mountains to the Bernhardine monastery of Bouro, at a distance of two leagues. It stands in a hollow at the foot of the mountains, is very rich, the buildings are extensive, and by no means ill-arranged. On a mountain net far from Bouro, is a church with a miraculous figure of the virgin, to which many pilgrimage!^ are made. It is called Nossa Senhora de Abba- dia ( Bouro being an abbey), not Nossa Senhora da Badia, as it stands in the maps. According to our barometrical investigations Bouro is situa- ted five hur.drcu feet above the level of the aea, which is but a small height. Beyond Bouro we ascended the spurs or fore- runncr-mouutains of Gerez. As soon as we had, with great labour, climbed its rough sides, the road became uncommonly pleasant, leading along the declivity of high and rocky mountains, under a continual shade of oaks and chesnuts, witli streams every where rushing down or spread- ing in artificial canals to water the meadows. On one side we had a deep valley, the steep de- found in the neighbourhood. Braga was a more ron^ldor- able place in the fifteenth century than now. It lias a iiaf. manufactory which supplies a great pari of Portugal with hats for the common people; nor are the iiats bad, though they do not equal the Knglish. 'Chore is also a manufactory of linives which is inconsiderable. The wiinieii are every where seen knitting, newing, or mukiiij; linoii, and signs of industry and activity ^very where apptar. ' 5 1) clivity ii. '1 W' ,l! ,1^ ''!■ 1 i&i .i^Mi J. m 380 T.INK'S TflAVFLS IN PORTUGAf-. clivity of vvliicli is converted with great industry into tcrrnres, and extremely well cultivuted. From the declivity of this 'niountuin we de- scended to a large village, called Villur dc \eiga; and then followed the valley, which continues rising more and more. A roaring stream, called Rio das Caldas, pours down ovcir rocks into the middle of the valley; the mountains become higher and steeper, and, after climbing them for a ieague, suddenly appears behind an eminence a small place in the same valley, consisting of forty houses, and celebrated for its warm baths, for which reason it is called Caldas de Gerez. This valley is extremely narrow. To the east- ward the houses lean against the mountain, a stream waters them to the west and also the foot of another mountain; to the northward the valley risfts rapidly up the heights '.".d an emi- nence to the southward before it dt ( ' com- pletely incloses this dell. The moui are very high, steep, and rocky, being chielly desti- tute of wood; and trees are found exclusively on the banks of the river. For some years past this spot has been more celebrated for its baths than formerly, and new houses are continually built; so that there will soon be no more room in this confined valley. The company come from the small towns of Minho, and many of the English from Oporto, As the surrounding country is very bleak, the in- habitant go in winter to Villar de Veiga, and return in Alay. The houses are of stone, but ill- built, having but one story, small inconvenient apartments, mostly without glass windows, and floors that can be seen through. The furniture consi'>(s of a rough wooden table and coarse chairs; every thing else, even to the smallest trifle, the company must bring. Nor must they expect either inhabitants or attendants; for in general an empty house is opened to the stranger, who is only put in po.sses^ion of bare walls and of the tables .and chairs above described. The place only affords young beef, or rather meat betwixt veal and beef, rice, oranges, sour wine of the country, sometimes Douro-wine which is better, and still more rarely fish. Sugar, spices, coffee, and every other necessary, must be pro- cured from Villar de Veiga, which is a league distant, and even there nut much is found. Even * III Uie map of Lupvz it is laid down at a dibtancc from tb^ the apothecary lives at that place, and no wale I ing- place-physician is to be here expected. The warm waters of this place rise (o the eat ward from a wall of granite rock at the foot of I high mountain. There are four springs, eachl bearing a dilferent name continues from June till August. The bath , .".'gscajoa An this narrow valley the air is often very hot, though froivitimel to time it is considerably cooled by the mists ofl the mountains. I The Serra of Gerez, generally speaking, ex.l tends from east to west, but sends out nnn?l branches to the southward. The Viilley w|ierij| Caldas lies also pursues the same-direclion, x\%\yA continually toward the north, but only toacer-l tain degree, after which it again somewhat siiiliil toward the frontiers of Galicia, which are onlvl three leagues from Caldas. It contiiiuallvbc-l comes narrower, more rocky, and more wj^odv till at Icngdi the traveller enters a thick shmjeolj fine lof'fy oaks, while brooks nuniiiur arouiid,! high abrupt walls of rock a|)pear, the niouHtaiul becomes wilder, and at length assumes an ap- pearance of sublimity. Near the Spanish fron-j tiers, the river Ilomem intersects the valleyj obliquely and passes into another. Here urctlie] ruins of a Roman bridge, with many remains ofl pillars here and there Ix-'.onging to a Roman wav, A narrow and diflieult foot-path now Itads by] this singular spot into a foreign kingdom. In a pass called Portela de Homent*, wherel the ridges of the mountains leave a coiisidmblel opening, arc the Spani»>h frontiers. The view ufl Galicia is far less beautiful than that of Minlio;] the mountains arc still high, the vallies \viiler and more open, but not so well cultivated; tliel traveller however scarcely yet perceives, he liai] entered another country, as he still hears the Por-I tugueze language, and beholds Portugueze iiiaii-| ners and customs. The highest of the mountains of Gerez is to| the eastward of Caldas toward the town of Muii- talegre. We climbed a very steep ascent up thisl mountain, which, however, was very casv, n| (he path winds round the blocks of granite, andl thus is free from danger even to those who easilvl become giddy, excepting in one short spmr.f But should the traveller lose tlie beaten path, I which is very possible, be will either come to| frontiers of Galicia, instead of which it forms the buundary. I inipasisabiu LINK'S TRAVEI.S IN PORTUGAL. 381 llinrizon Ifhc farther I mnassablc thickets or extremely dangerous i)re- ' • • fs III the valley of Caldas the road rises •^'P .j" Porfcla de lloniem, by a convenient path I''Jji„„.tothe heights, and a fine light oak-wood I ccorapanics it three-fourths of the way up the r J The prospect to the westward is ex- nisive, command ; a great part of Minho and I ksea\viih the downs that skirt it; but the view ■ not distinct, as the eye cannot penetrate into the beautiful hnt narrow vallies, resting only on ilie barren h.;ights. Toward the rest of the the view is bounded by mountains. we advanced to the eastward, |Ap"„ore rough and wild wc found this range, and l^enictwith vallies consisting alm.»st entirely of iflked impassable rocks. A sharp mountaiu- Ijidgeliere divides Spain from Portugal. Wolves are here so numerous as to render this Lgt'of mountains dangerous; but the most re- arbble animal is the Caucasan-goat, (copra irfliriHS Pall.) whicli is extremely rare on other iuropcan mountains. >Ve saw several skins of lliem; and at length a tlirce-year old he-goat Ihat bad been shot, was brought to Caldas, ,.horc the count of Hoflmannsegg bought its iin, which was stuffed, and is preserved in his ollection*. A considerable quantity of cattle are fed long these mountains, the young bullocks iiij; brought there in spring, and remaining ill autumn. The neat-herds relieve one another from lime to time. Draught-oxen arc brought lotlif low pastures, when not employed in work, tat least every Sunday. The vallies, especially > Tliis animal is larger, stronger, and more muscular Ikn tlie tamo goat, \)iirlicularly in the shoiililcrs and (Mrts ftnr the heol. Tlie forehead U higher, the horns rise Itnighlcr up and bend backwards, and the tail is not so Ton'; the hair is shorter and thirker, being a iitixture of liev ami brown, and very similar to that of a st.ijj. A Ilad cross runs along the back and over the shotilders. Ik' male as in t.imt-goats is furnished with a beard, and jlic fimalc has no horns. Wc earefnily took the measnre Iftiis animal, which in other respects fully coincides with lie description of the writer on capra a'gagrns. It is no Itlicrr fuiind in Portugal, >xcept on the mountains of Xira, nor have 1 ever lear.jt that it is found iu Spain. Ivholhcr il be a degenerate and wild variety of the tanic- |oit, or the wild parent stock of the latter, cannot with KTiainty be discovered, but It is evidently dill'erent from it. Ikliut uf these byputhvses appears tr luc most probable. :> ' that of Caldas, are highly cultivated, and where it is practicable a little land has been gained from the inouiitains, s-^ that between the rocks, in almost inaccessible phices, fields of maize are frequently seen. The land on tlic declivities is often formed into terraces, and carefully watered, so as to constitute artificial niea'losvs. The mountains on the west side of Caldas are also very steon, but not so high. The path that leads directly from Caldas over the mountain to the village of Covide is very rugged. After passing the mountain toward this viilagr, appear ruins probably of an old mountain-fort, which however the inhabitants assert to be the ruins of an old city, called Chalcedonia ; but that is not probable. Taking the road across this plain from Covidei to the frontiers of Galicia, we came to a large village called Villarinha do furno, close beyond which rises a range of rocky mountains, called Serra Amarella, which form the frontiers. Villa- rinha has many opulent inhabitants. Here wa found much hoi:ey, which aboinids on these mountains, as do milk and fresh butter, which are great rarities in Portugal. Oh that my weak voice could sufficiently praise the worthy people of the cottage, or house, where we lodged: their gratitude and good nature were beyoncl ex- pression great. These are the people, whom many proud and ignorant travellers, and espe- cially the English, have "^tigi^atized and re- proached ! The common people iu and about Caldas are richer than iu many other parts of Por- tugal, and uncommonly gay and animated f, It is found not uncomn^oniy from hence to Montatogrc, ii hunted in great numbers by the inhabitants, aiul its tlcsh is so much esteemed, that llie hunter who uiliiiigly sold us the skin would nut part \\itli liie caic.iss. The skins arc here frequently used as covers for mules, and the horns are put up as ornaments in houses. + At niijht the guitar was fvery where, though the performances are monotonous and rude. I here saw bome dances accompanied by soujjs wiiich I found in no other part of the |)cninsula, and which reprcenled a kind of drama; as for instance, a conversation between a father and his sun, who, in a mimetie dance, cout^isses he is ia love, for which he is reproved by his father, M^hoso for- giveness he at last obtains: or it consisted alternately of singing and mimetic dancing, till the procession had mean-. while moved through the village. The audience show, their approbation by clapping their hands. ••!■' ■i * SECTI0I4 ■'!li:i f i; =11 ':'•* ^h i %' M' Jii \t'M r»ii;;iiifi , ..3 i\<' 1(:;: .:1 'i ;t 4^ P-r 382 LINK'S TRAVF.T.'? IN POT^TUGAL. i \i SECTIOM XI. ,1. Journey to Amarante — ScYra cfc JMarao — Peza de rc^ua — Remarks on the national Dresi-^ The Cvlttire of the I'me. ^^ F' 'ROM this range of mountains we returned to X examine the second chief range of mountains in Portugal, Serra f^e Marao. We travelled directly southward through Villar de Yciga, where we paw uncommonly fine Minlio-vallies along the river called Rio Caldo, and then through the village of Padrieros, Nossa senhora do Porto, a village containing a neat church and a miraculous picture of the virgin; to Fofe, a very large village, wif Traz-os-montes, with it^- cr.nsidoral high, but naked and arid chains of inouiiiai In height the Serra de Marao is not inferior that of Gerez, but probably exceeds it. Tlii snow frequently lies on the summit during month. We descended the south of the mountain, came to a large village called Cainpcan, on small moimtain-plain which lies coiisidcrabli high. This village with its woods and fieli forms a charming island amid these naked moui tains. The soil is moist, for at a certain water springs in every part, the plain btii almost entirely surrounded with considerabll criiinences. The small woods consist of chesnul oak, and birch. W^e could almost imagine outj selves in the woods of Germany. The cold ii winter is very severe, snow falls, and even tl they may be reckoned fully equal to Uenran miles. summerl LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL, 38: jf. lights are for a lonjf time very bleak. tm Aiiw^"*^ to Canipean is reckoned a iMceof only three leagues; but these leagues erv lo"S* F'"0'" '^^^ last-mentioned place ijjtofffor Pe^o dallegua. At flrst we met h fine chesnut hanging woods along the de- itiesof the mountains; but afterwards about ajjue from Campean, at a small town called taMa'tlia, began hills covered with vines, continued two leagues without interruption, far as Pezo, so that we almost imagined ' lelves in the rich and hilly wine-country of Jercy. to (la Reg u a which is a market to\M» (con- L) celebrated as a dcp6t for port-wine, and tlf producing some of the best (juality, is situ- kl oil the southern declivity of a hill close to the Lro, which here forces its way between steep Isconsistingof thin strata of argillaceous slate |xd with mica. We beheld vine-covered hills, iaras oureyes could reach, sometimes adorned [liiieat houses. The bed of the river is stony J the stream in summer is navigable only for all boats, though in winter ships of consider- jk size can ascenxl it. The wine-trade renders Is place very lively, though it is but small, ktaiuing only one thousand and' forty inha- Lits, and three hundred and fifteen houses. friiis town belongs to a tract of land on the nksof the Douro called Upper Douro (o alto ))uro) connnencinj' to the eastward at Villa J or more pro|)erly San Joao de Pesqueira, Itemling to the spot where the small river lixeira falls into the Douro, and conipreliend- ja tract of somewhat above four geographical pi'm length, by three in breadth*. JTlie situation of Pezo is very favourable to ;viiie. The steep hills slope to the si)uth- kid, and consist of a blackisli slate, which by 'In 1781 the population amounted to forty-four tliou- id six iuimlri'd and sixty, tliere beini; twelve thousand jit hiiiulrttd and ninety-tive houses and seventy-eight plies, This is the triict of lund that proJ jces port-wine, !i:iiuual produce of which is reckoned ut ninety thousand cs. ' Here we had on op|)ortiiuity to ohtervu the effects of theat oil huiunn society. At noon (tliis wits ut the close [July, 179H,) every thi«}> appeared still and dend; at (rtiie hiboni'ini^ classes bcij^an to appear; and after sun- hlic principal inhabitants were seen iibroad. The nij^ht Muri'iipied by a constant tumult; the women lightly lt»eii but in their balconies to take the air, while their Vol. II. No. XCVI. ; its great heat contributes not a little to the general warmth of these parts, the valley is very narrow, the lofty Marao defends it fiom the north wind, nor can the sea-breezes reach it. In short this spot is very favourable to warmth in summerf, as the neighbourhood of the snow- covered Marao is said to cause severe winters. The badness of the water renders this place un- pleasant, and in the neighbourhood along the banks of the Douro are marshes caused by the inundations of the river in winter, which give rise to the agues that here prevail. The culture of the vine is one of the most im- portant means of support to the people of Por- tugal; for not only the wine from the banks of Upper Douro, that of Carcavelos near Lisbon, and that of St. Ubes are exported to foreign countries: but the other wines produced arc either consumed in the country or shipped to the colonies. Portugal has by no means a propor- tionate variety to those of Spain, to which the wines of this country are also inferior in quality. In the commonest wine-houses in Spain are fre- quently found good and sometimes excellent wine; whereas in Portugal it is generally very batl. The Spanish wine has naturally a great deal of fire, a quality which is only communi- cated to that of Portugal by means of brandy. The Portuguezc are moderate wine-drinkers, and even at good tables are contented with bad, or at least very moderate wine; and if any thing more is brought it is port. Carcavelos is set on tai)le together with ^ladeira, and as the latter m;iy be had in Portugal of excellent quality, it often supersedes the use of the former. The wine of St Ubes is still more rarely drank. Here, as every where else, hills and mountains are preferred for the culture of the vine, and at Pezo they are so steep that the earth is supported beauty was enhunced by the darkness. The guitar wa» heard throughout the nit^ht accompsnied by the elegiac, uniforiD, popular soiij^s of the I'ovtu^ueze, whicli continued till sun-rise. When these are heard ut such n di-^tancc hi not to distinguish the words, it is certainly far tVoin pieasanl to listen to their music. The lirst stanza indeed often sur- prises by its soft plaintive sinijile melody ; but the hetirer in vain desires variety ; for the same notes are constantly re- peated, and if the pipe of a beautifnl woman ex«;ites ^oine feelin;j:, t'lfi si.TCuming voices of flu> men totally overpower ami destroy it ; which is the nioi*- iiu)ileHsiii,^, as the \tomeii are seldom hvtu'd, and the men coii»t.aitly, IJ ■■!' I«'- ! .' im i !•: by \, > 'iMf 38-1 LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUOAL. im>' 11 If i in II ' f by little walls so ;i3 to convert tiic sides of the hills into terraces (geios). But the vine is also fVer|iiently cultivated on plains, where, if the soil is sandy they succeed very well. Shady val- lics and plains or stitfer soil produce even here l)iit moderate wine, and should never be so cm- ployed. The vine is commonly short, growing up poles, those in Minho alone excepted, where, as I have already said, they are planted beside- trees, round the branches of wliich they twine. This rentiers the country charming, but pro- duces wretched wine. In the quintas they h)rm covered walks, but even there they do not yield sucli good wine as the shorter vines, however pleasant and beautiful these walks may appear. In the province of Tras-os-montes alone are the vines planted at *i distance from each other, with corn sown between tliem ; and on the south bank oftheTagus, at Lisbon, garden-vegetables are grown in the vine yards. It is also extremely common at the first establishment of a vineyard, to sow the land the first year with corn. The number of varieties of the vine is as great in Portugal as in other countries, and their names are of Portngueze origin; but these names are various for .ne same variety in different parts of the country, while the same name is used in various places for different varieties. At Pezo, the best red wine is produced from a small red late grape, growing on a vine whose leaves are deeply indented and very rough, A great num- ber of varieties arc mingled together, as for in- stance at Camego, where sixty-seven varieties grow together; a method which certainly pos- sesses some advantages, but also great disad- vantages. The distance at which the vines are planted is very various. One of the most important steps is to prune the vine. The high vines in Minho which pro- duce the white wines, are only cut every other year and sometimes seldomer; whereas the others are cut every year; in cold situa»^ions in autumn, and in the warm in January and February. The manner of doing this is various, and depends much on theskillof the gardener. A short time before and after they are in bloom, or if they bear too many grapes, the superfluous branches are lop|)cd oft". In some parts the leaves are also taken off' to expose the gia|)es to the sun. In Upper Douro, the branches are carefully bound lip to one or more stakes, which is done just before and aftrfr thabuds come out' o'k wise thfc braV.chbs are ortly twined rounji stem, and fastened or tied to it. Another very necessary annual lahouriji ing, partly to loosen the earth, and partly to] stroy weeds. This is done in spring hi^w^^A leaves come out, at which time the lalmm-efsJ seen in crowds in the vineyards, and repeaj short time before the blossoms appear. D^j the first three years a furrrtw is dug round i vine in autumn, a short time before the tallofil leaf. This is done in order to cut therootsj. alford sufficient moisture; for Mhitli reason] cold moist places, the furrows are tilled iiJ diately, but in warmer situations much 1%| In ilpper Douro and other mountainous pji the vines are ni;inureperly| duce no port wine, good white wine is niailcJ When the must is put into casks the strnn«| .1 t J** Air '■■ iininl LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 385 |, is added, forming even in wine of the t iinlity a twelftli part. There is no proper It.line tree from it, nor is this addition by !*iP3„s an adulteration of the M'ine-mcrcliant, " ' ' -* Those who dislike this wine of the coun- , "I'lig for hoine consumption, which is often t excellent, and might prohahly by a delicate bte be preferred to all that is exported. It ktaiiis at least a much sniialler quantity of liiilv. f'l'^ ^"•'*^^ "^' ^^^*^ Knglish, and tlieir Idiicss tor ilrin king to excess, isevixlcntly the lineal"^ "" L originally added. Thos |ii(li«rtasteniust drink the 1 llnillhcre dwcrilie the port-wiiie triitle from a pnprr jj yol.of the Meinoiius Econoniicas. It priiuipiilly \i the pro^TM* of •'"' monopoly of the compai>y of rDoiiroi uikI in more than one point ubounils with in- a,.r InCormnlion. I simll ntitlier Bive an extract nor ii itioiiof tins tieatise, but shall only avuil myself of the , it contain"- 81 the. Upper Donro was nv yet but littli,' cnltivuted, I very poor. At that time the English us 'veil a» other [opwn nations loved iweet winei>, to whic'. but ftw parts lisdistrict ure adapted. Lisbon then exported it iiicon- ijbleqiiaiitilien, nor did the exportation of port-wine MSI' immediately uftpr the troiity 'i' Methuen in 1703. [man the taste for red-wine bfjfan constantly to increase, I iiij. Ciiglish who now settled in the ecMintry in great Lbersemou raged the cultivation of the vine in order to .•wine cheapi'r;. which succeeded so well, that from j)tol735. n pipe of the best wine was sold for only ten twis. At this even the member:* of tlio f'^n^lish factory (discontented, and fearing so chtMp a price might injure irirackhcid a meetini;; but a shrewd laerchunt, named lift, nrevented imy increiise of price, and persuaded m rather to direct tlieir attention to a Hpuaish merchant, Woioiin'o Piuicorvo, and put him down. Pancorvo being {cliemiii;; mim, determined to open a direct trade with [er northern ports, and therefore offered a iiigher price; lijs money failing, he could ni.i go through with his Ulation, and became a bankrupt. The English then llterated the wine terribly, mixing it with the t-uur wines Beim aiid Minho, coloured it, and in short at length de- lyed its reputation. il'iC, the com|Miny of tJpper Douro was established iiorder of the cabinet, which still continues in force, lluis produced much good to the country, though its re- Jttiniis mid conduct ure fiiultv. It consists of a provedor thief iiiitpertor, twelve deputies, six counsrilors, and a ittury. These nominate a kind of tribunal, consisting of eiiibargttilor juiz eotiservador, a discmbargador Jiscal, illieir biibordinute attendants, a notary, a nieirinhox, a birflf, ftllores, adininistradores, &<;. an intricate and |i|>le\ constitution, Mrhich annually co^ts a hundred tliou- icrusid'es. This company depends immediately on the ^',111)1 is not under thejurisdiction of any otiier triiiunul ; I which reason tiiey ventured on many arl/itrnry acts, ky were resolved to keep up the reputation of the wine, Jtliiitthe price should be fixeil. Their I'mkIs at first kbtul of one million two hundicd thousiiu.l crusades. cause of adding so great a quantity of very strong brandy: out now almost all l'ortugiie/.e wines have at least some brandy added before they ferment. It is said to be impossible to preserve the wine without this addition; which may indeed be true, as there arc no wine cellars in Portugal, the wine being kept in warehouses above ground, where it is left to ferment. The wines grown here arc as soou as possible sent to Oporto, where they remain in the maga- zine three years before tiiey are exported*. SECTION sta which, hwvever, were not destined merely for the purcliaso of wine, but to make luuns to the pcas.ints at tinee per ceiit. These however have very seldom taken plucc, evasions having also been used to avoid thenu The comptiny have not indeed a conipittc ni(iMO|ioly of the wine of Upper Douro. The member, iirc bound to take wine from each grower nt a fixtd price. Hut if th<' grower prefers selling and transnortiiig hit wine el-cuhcH' into the country lie may. This however must be done tlirn(i^;h the intervention of the company, who receive six per cent. It is evident these regulatinns necessarily give them a very con- siderable monopoly ; but the restraint went still farther: n list was made of the produce of each viueyard for the last preceding five years, and no one was permitted to sell a larger (|nantity, either to the company or to any oii« clce. Tlius all increase of this species of agriculture is entirely stopped, and what is still worse, the company employ va- rious evasions not to take all the wine grown, nor at the prices tixed. The district of Upper Douro was divided into such parts as were to produce factory or export wine, and wine for home consumption. The tlivisiou itself is not propeily made; for there are districts which bear bad export wine, and others, where a wine is produced, which I'ar excels most of the wines destined for exportation. The port wine for home coiisum()tion, wliicli we drai.k in good houses, was so excellent, that i ■ '. ''ist thought this was the name ol' the best port wine, and . i^ much astonished when 1 learnt the contrary, and tasted the common bad home consuniptioii wine. Every possible precaution is now taken to prevent the adulteration of the export-wines with the other Hriie!«. It was at first prohibited to sind out of their ;nificant. Portugal might (X'rtuinly find a con- biderable marki-t for hir wines in all the northern states, and men would soon drink larger quantities of that excellent wine, which so far excels t''e common sour French wine, vievf it iif>t spoiled by that quantity of brandy, which none but the I'liglish can like. Perhaps, however it was this brandied Tottugueze wine wiiich first corrupted the taste of the English, who were almost entirely confined to tliis kind of wine. Six per cent for comrnissiun and hliipping, and iiti:en per cent profit :ire atloncd th'.b company. which is one of the finest vine-mountainj, produces excellent wine, of which theinh] tants of the town make their principal bever In some parts the road is excellent, andpUa with trees. Theslate of the Douro ceaseson) heights round the town ; after this all is oJ\ which is not without metallic veins, andoni eminences near the town brings with it plumbai In these parts we met with the elm-leal sumach-tree, both wild and cultivated, ot'wlil probably the former had run wild. Itjscul vated here and there in Traz-os-montes,andesi cially in Upper Douro. Its cultivation requj but little care, and it is very easily increj Its young rough branches are used fortannl fine leather, and near nine hundred tliousj pounds weight are annually exported fj Oporto to England and the northern ports, Ueyond Lamego to the southward, we climJ still farther up this high range of mountal which here accompanies the Douro, but sti The company have farther possessed, from thiirj erection, the monopoly of wine in the town ol' Opotioil and ihe country three leagues round it, wr.ieli (iijtancel extended in 176O to four leagues, in order as was j(ivni| to prevent all adulteration of wine. This at tirst nj a tumult, which wag suppressed by force, iiiid tlie t lea.lers of which were severely punished. The imjiI still possess the village, and everv tavern beais tlienl Companliia do alti Douro. At length, in 177-.', the company acquired tlii'|mrt of ex<'lnsively furnishing with wine the tiiveriis iiitlitj tricts of I'ezo da lle^ua, I'enaguiao, Mezao-frio,15ar(|ih Teixeiras, Tourues, and Sabroso de Folhadella, lilii under a pretext of prf!venting adulteration; whereul evident, that the real object was to increase the jjnvilJ of the company. Such is the hibtory rf an institution in which iIim of the founder Pombul very clearly prevails. lli>t\ei| to beni-fit the country ai t every where apniireiit, biiti wherethe measures lie adopted were precipituteamldttpl Absolute governments gener'-Uy run from one fxireiJ the other. Some expedient was nccess.iry to ini|jrmJ wine-trade of Portugal, or at least partly to wrei.t ill the hands of foreigners, which the erection of the wal of Upper Douro has undoubtedly done; butwii!iiitl fore necessary to exceed ihe proper bouuds of cofrcioul so despotic u hand? ' . f J |v j;iTiit |m)M; and tilt i'oi.. II. : LINK'S TRAVELS LV PORTUGAL. 387 branches to the soutluN'ard. As it has no '« (Ici'P vallie*, aufl the declivities are not rVcP' '^ '""" °* slight ohscivation might l' „»*tl'ielici!iht of the mountain at much less l||I)lllCl">= '"- p 111- 1 In the truth. Ihe soil is naked, being only Icred with grass or short healli, and somewhat T|.y, 111 the vailies we also found oaks and Liii'it-tret's, though not in great quantities Ljjp^iticularly cultivated licre, which is a r of'ji ijioiintainous bad soil and a cold cli- Ite' it bad already been iiarvcstctl in the begin- L of August. The villages between I^amego llCrastor M'hieh is four miles farther, are ex- luely miserable, and the jjcasants apiuur very Cnisto is a large nunnery, with a small •et-town, wiiich lies somewhat lower. From Crasto to Viseu the country becomes iistaiitly lower and more cheerful. Near asto «e |)asscd the Vouga, w hich tlows from kcto San Pedro de Sul (where are somecelc- itcii ami niuch-fre(|uented warm batjis) and fleiiijtli forms the harbour of Aveiro. We isc(l"tljrough chesnut woods and over inoun- liiscovered with high heath to a large village pled Calde, where the country is better culti- |eil ami the peasants appear opulent. .lie inouiiiains now grew i-tiuict:, siiifc ]iro- JlWJolVstiitfs at coi)hiilei'iil)le (listuiices, tVfiiutMilv very llroni iliemiilille ol' roitiigul, litre provicte thtniiselveR liobjtfcts of luxiir). Miiiiy jewels ure aUo htTe bo(i>j;ht Isold; mid the meri;liiii)ts tVniu the uiidtUo of the country, Ml., II. No. XCVi. ed with small chesntit and oak-woods, hut also present many heaths. The soil is granite sand. Not far from Viseu begin the forc-ninners of the Serra de Kstrclla. We passed over low mountains and through pine-woods to Men- gualde, a large village two league?; from \'iseu. The higher we ascendefl, tlie more lively, more cultivated and pleasanter the country appr-ared. Tl)e village of Mengualde surprize country, of which we had never read, iiiul had heard but littic. On the first plain of this serra, a league from Peuhaufos, is a \ery sinull town (or villa) called Cca, wli,'re many person"* of easy tbrtiiiie reside, us is the case iu ur.uiy small places in poi-- tugal. At the extremity of this place, near the declivity toward the plain, oi. an open and bcau- uho arc luiiier to Viicu vhaii to tiny '•ca-,!i'rf, take liuir int'ii'lmiiiiiZ'! frniii thence. As ui: wcie ti;,v(iliin^ i\cdr Tlioiiiari at a < •iiisidrrttbh) ilistanc- tVoui V i.'.f'U, we iii't uitli iii'.iiiy loailud curl^ u;oiii'4 to tlu;> t'.nr, but us MiKHi as it js VM'.v \ iiifU is •Jjjaiu u >i'rj d^ad jr i.i;. 5 r \'fnl ^m ^ f.i. ) '::^si.«i?— »-,• i": »t»«S«*tlBW9«»F"^*SIW S^fl MVK'S TRAVELS IN' PORTUr.AT i 'I*-. Il tifiil spot, i< the fine house, or ViUluT castk', of i)(.in I.iiisHcnianlo Pinto dc Mcnrloca, thcMm- (Idus of wliii'li coinmaiul ;i i'lnv and extensive |)n)>|)(ct. litre tiie spcetator IoolVheii wt had passed tliis fiist plain, wc came to a valley, in which is tlie village of Sabugneiro, undoubtedly the best place to stop at in order to examine the range of mountains. TIk; inhabi- tants of I'.strella arc not in this country reputed polite; which in comparison with ihe rest of the nation is perhaps true. A mountain stream, the Rio de Alva, flows near the village through a valley, which in many parts is extremely deep antl rocky. A part of the mountain around lias a gentle declivity, which is covered with grass. The Serra de Estrella, which is the Mens Her- niinius of the ancients, is indisputably the most extensive and highest range of mountains in Por- tugal; for in winter it is covered with snow fre- quently during fiijur months and longer, and rises from a mountain plain wliicb itselt is consider- ably high; it lies north-east and south-west. The northern part is lower, the mountains rising there gently and being less rocky, for which rea- son it is called Serra A/ansa, the gentle moun- tains; but the .southern parts which is the high- est, and in many parts very steep and rocky, is called Serra Brava, the wild mountains. Here all is granite without exception. Altliough many large and small rivers take their rise in these mountains, as for instance tlie Mondcgo, the Vouga, the Zczere, yet it does not give rise to those innumerable brooks, which, render the mountains of tlierez so charming. There arj many populous small towns on this range of mountains, of which the principal areCovilhab and Momteigas, lielow much rye and fruit are grown, but the upper part of the mountain con- sists of pasture, especially for sheep, which range about like those of S|)aiM, dcsccudinp ii,c, teniber to the plains of Aleniteio, and \^\ hither in .May. 'I'licir wool which is ex and next to that of Spain, the best In KuroD,,! exported to Kngland in large ciuantitifs. i|,'J \ illages round the Serra de KstrclLi an „J lent .sheep-cheese is made, which i.s sent alUi the country; but is every wIumo vriv scard The royal family annually send some as a rarl to the court of Spain, and it greatly cxcclst sheep-cheese of Aleintejo. At Covilh;,!) „ woollen njanufactories in a thriving state J the Portugueze cloth is b.id, tinck, 'and ImJ for which reason the rich constantly wcartW from Kngland. To go from Sabugneiro to the highest shihb of the mountain, we first assccndedadeclivitvnl very steep, where the roail is easy, and wind'sb twecn cisti, he. hs, and rocks. WciiowariivJ at the ridge of tlic mountain, where the uuill wood changed to a fine grass, andwepursJ with great ease our road, which rose slowly) the southward together with the inouiKjjl High masses of rock soon began to am among which wc suddenly perceivr he y lake, called T.agoa Uedonda, or tlu i |a|J These lakes, so near the summi' charms to the mountains. The Lago. lid is the smallest of them, but its coDM^.'.cttlv lom form, the high rocks that surround it at asmi distance, and the clear transparency of its wai render it extremely pleasant. Still puisuiuir ridge of the mountains, which is very plcasai We sometimes discovered a groupof t rces adunii with r ireand be.uitifid hangirig plants,S()iiiel a lai i^e plain or soft declivity covered witlisliei sometimes the juniper-tree, and sometimes Ik'; tiful flowers springing up from the soft gicei ward. The broad ridgf of the mountain i suddenly grew narrow, on the east side appeii a deep and steep valley, to which a path lcd,di gerous to those who are subject to be giddy.ai near it a .stupendous mass of rocks broken on sides, and only connected with the ridge of mountain, by a narrow tongue ol land. Tl highly striking and uncommonly tine massl received the significant name of Canthurm, the pitcher; because water streams do«iicv where between the rocks. At length the ridge of the mountain Ws tlic Jiighcst summit, called MalhaOdet'm: LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 389 l,i,tcfrntlvarcliec prospect , this eminence is nneonunonly extensive, in- Uiiiff almost the whole province of Ikira and Liadiira, and to the east are distinctly seen Spani^li mountains called Sierra flcCiata, not li-iornt-rliaps in height to that of I'strella. _ njiijr from the summit, and leavini^ the [tharus^to the right and to the east, we passe«asBat» wii P Wl i Wi« |P M ) i>* S90 7,IXK'S TRAVl'XS IN POJITUGAL, t'lat trocs from the Sena dc Estrella to Coimbra. called Sena de Acor, or hawk-mountain, which is nKulfratc'Iy iri«ij!i, antl consists ot' sand-slonc. The valley hctweoii this first and second cliain that !'ollo\vs is very wcil cidtivaitd, and contijns many villai>;es, as I'overes, I'onto-volha, and one ])articiilarly large called I'oz de Arouce. Here (iuinea-corniscidtivUed. Avid sai'd-nionn tains again close this plca'^ant tract ot" co;inl.y to the southward. Hcyou'' the village of C'oTvo, the mountains appi .>ach and crowd together from all sides, and close before (lie inarkct-townof Espin- lial consicierahlerunestone mouutains arise. To the right lhehi!;h i.ousao appears insight, form- ing the iiighcst range < f limestone mountains in i'oitiigal. These nunintains supply Lisbon xsith ice, which is there preserved in ice-houses. We now again entered the province of Kstrcmaduva. I'rom Ponte dc Murcella to Kspinhal is a iiistancc of six leagues. As far as Venda dos r^Ioinhos the road runs .aiving a valley between liigh uiountaiiis, and at Venda da Maria, two leagues from Kspinhal, the valiies ipen, thehiiis become lower, and are alternated with limestone and sandstone. We passed rhrough a market- town cail.'d Cahafos, four leagues from l:'.spin- lial, aufl lour lear^aes from Thomar, in a plea- sant country. This town is situated on a plain which is almost every "here entlo.sed by hills on the river Nabab. Here the iiilU again consist partly of sand- scone and partly of lime-stoir:. 'ihe plain is al- most entirely covered with olive trees, wl.ich give it at a distance a monotonous appearafue, though on a nearer approach it is much enliven- ed Ijy the gardens on the banks of the rivef. On the whohs however, the count; y is very arid Thomar was formerly more "onsiderahle, but now consists of two jiarishes, contains four nio- iiastericf,, and the number of iidiabitants is said to be irom four to live thonsan«l. It is the seat of a corregcdor. The street- are tolerably regu- lar, well paved, and have a gay and cheerful ap- • Til'- onirr of ChriKt wii» •■f,tal)li».hprf in laio l>y Pom f )l ii/ .1' ' ; •.iit'aui»pressioii<)fllif order <>t kiiii^'litsteiiiphirti, wlioiv e-.liiK'i tliey rtfC'fivt.il. It |lo^•.t■ssL'S no Itus than fwri-M-oiif tcrfiis ami villu;{ta unil four liunilred itiid (ifty- f .;i: (;'umiu;ii)iUjries, 'I'he kiiii; mid tin: queen iirt< constant trr^i rl-miik e. *, iin ofiitv to wliiv.li u revcnur ul' forty tlioiisuiid i:it.a.ii-c».is u'.lti."«d. pearanee, but most of the houses are small the hills is a rentarkable edifice, the chief nastery of the order of Christ. Here we i many vestiges of a high anticpiity extend! beyr. id the time of )Jom Manoel. In t| lice several tribunals are heUI, and the nrfU is always the 'tead of tlie order of Christ anl member of the council of state*. The road to Santarem leads at first ovcrani cultivated sand hill ; we then cametoaiitxtrej ly well-cultivated and extensive plain sj,,! with olive trees, which accompanied the TjJ for a considerable dislaiice, and atfoLlcj!, 5 sped, which, after having long seen .lotliiiir'k hills and monutains, was uncommonly pltaJ The soil of this plain is rery fertile, eoiiiisdiig a fat mould mixed with sami, and tluicL light; hence it is hoed with hoes whidiiuJ moveable mould-board and no point, but an J «ulge two inches broad. On this plain isa, ket-town, called Golegam, which appearoilvi {lourishing, and where we observed a nuniy new-built houses. Very hiw hills, soniewlutl ■^errupt the plain at Ponte de Almonilu, lintl soon began again still more beautiful tliani fore. Here it is almost entirely eovcroiU] vineyards enclosed «ithin.tall iUaek |)o|)l;irs,a we already discwvered, at a considerable (iistaD, Santarem situated on a mountain betwctiioli] trees and summer-house-*. The winu >iiol here is sent to Lisbon in great (piaiititic\ ] The city of Santarem, which is eif;;lit iea»| from Tlnunar, is divided into the ii|)|Kraj lower town, the former being siinatcil m mountain, the latter on the bjiiks ot' the Tiiri] Most of the rich^ the corregetlor, tlic jmiJ reside in the former, the low town bciiisriccl oned unwholsome, and accordingly coihiiih small houses. The upper tt)wn still jirofii here and tiiere sttme remains of walls, m\ an old citadel. The population aniouiib about eight thousand |. The 'I'agus was here so shallow, that wccoii without inconvenience wade throngl. it in iial t Of its former ijmitiii'ss and Urilliaiicy, itsdiviiiiiiii^ thii'teen pnnsliL'A, iiiiil itMuntaintn^ ioin'tcL'iircli^iiiihlM •-ue fartlicr do(\'n, i,vlifres?oo(ls going lo and fro fVoni L'sijon lusiiallv loiided iind unloaded. All the hills J^.onsistot'ratchil, ot'cpiartz, sandstone, &c. ic;iiiii' Spaniard, 5 (i,i,iit"«. secretary, and the servants, l)y land. „jvveiiiet with a ditliculty ; for we had l, ,)iie|)ass|)ort, in wliich the count and niyself LiiK'ntioiu'd, together with his suite*. \S'e Iretore went to the corregedor's, but he being leiitliad entrusted hib businessto another per- y iiho made no objection, saying the count LlitiiKieted with the |)ortaria, to which he ad- la dttliuation why the conn' travelled alone llwitlidiit attendants, giving us at the same If ;i passport, in w'lich le stated that he had llitit.'d tlieportaria, ..f •..liieh he briefly added ) cDiitciits. With this passport we wc ut to [itarcin, wliere two ollicers of justice, (c.vcWra- ) iiiiiiit'diattly a])pearcd, a class of men who loujiiioiit the country bear a very bad charac- laiul demanded our pass|)oi'ts,. 'I'liey refused Virtlaiatiun of the corregcdor of Thomar, as jivfovtigner ought to haveapass I'lom t.'icin- Idaiitor a secretary (>f state. IJolh these luen jut to uiul fro, spoke secretly together, then jiii back to us, and, in short, I ■)l)M'r\i'(l they liihJsome money, Mhieh howivcr I icucd to li'tlit'Ui, lest I should thereby render myself Jptrtcd. At length they examined ourpock- ;ind unfoi'tunately tbuiid in mine a pointed litr, wliieli l)cing prohibiu'd in I'oilugal, ihey ii.iiciied nie with imprisonnu ut. All this, 'ivn, u;is not serioiii; they sutfered u.i t'>c:'.'. ■rMi|;|)ei' in peace, and did not nunc till ten locktofelcli us to tliejuiz de fiua. '1 hisgen- ii, luivinga bilge ccuipuny with him, Mii"- fered us to wait a long time in his mti chamber' whither he at length came, merely heard the es- crivabs, who saicl. " Here are foreigners who have no regular passport," and laconically re- plied, " To prison." 1 recpiested him to read our papers, hut he replied, " JNIy orders are given — to prison." Thither the young Si)aniard and myself were taken amidst the sport of the esciivaos, but no one troubled himself about our servants and baggage. At lirsl we were put into a deceuc room: but the escrivaiis spoke a few woids softly to the jailer, who then obliged us to go down some sle|)s into another clumber, i lijs was a shocking place; u horrid stench attacke>i us, for the privy was situated there, and I soon perceived with iuirior, that we were in tlie same room with criminals. I'Lven now when I reileet: on this wretched moment, I can seaieely restrain my feelings; and it particularly vexed met*! be told, that it was contrary to good manueis to wear my hat. At lengtli I sent to the jailer to know if we could have another room by paying for it. This was all that w;'.s wanted ; and we were now shown into a good room, our servants were permitted to attend us, and the jailer allow- ed us togo into his apartment. I wasalso permit- ted to send messengers to Thomar and Lisbun. At first people seemed diiposed lo let us re- ] main in prison. Among the prisoneis were a I nimdier of Spanish merihints, who had remain- j ed there several weeks fri)in the .'^ame cause as I ourselves, and had only been one. examined I since their first imiirisoument. A poor Italian, ■ who was ill, chielly attracted my pity. He had i been l)roui>ht here; because his passport tlid not 1 agree uitli lie last orders, his i\ioiuy was spent, i the pool mail was toigolteii, and saw no means ' of hheratiou. A sou of a e'ili/en ol' .Saiilaieiii s.iid to us, with a dejected countenance. '• \'ou i are lortiiiiate, lor you know the cause of \()ur I impri.sonineiil, uliieii I (h) not nf mine; ami I j .shall, pel I a|)s, be sent fur a soldier." I Me;i,. while we soon proeured our liherh'. I ; asked ihe young S|)ani.ird to thaw up a petition I in Spauisli, as I llionght he would express him- • self b. tier in thai, language: I tlieii trin^laleil it It Has not ii iiicri' |)asii|iurt, but. u imrt.niii, or ortiiT , nutn' iom|in-lit'ii>ivi' tli.iy a ii,,ti' |iii>s|-(irt : iii!(tilu)ih III lliu iiiii'iii, ^ii^lll^l t)y a si'iTi'tniV nl' nl;itr, to all iiia- liali's liiiii olllii'i!., toaidnsiti nil lliiii^> nlalivf to Diit lir>iiii(l ri-i arcliis into iialiual Itiitnrv, »>liifli »;is jiaiti- liiiy>|ii'iiiiitl. Siirli u |)i)ituriu is ill lliat tuiiiitr\ iiiin It IVoL. II. No. XCVl. «( !•(■ iKIIIIIll ill ia>f 111 IK fil to i'iiiiM'\aiir<', •j" Noluiie*. 5 (i jiioMilo lor uur IoiI^mi-^ mat 1 11 Uj N •}i Pi I'-'i m iy4\ ^■1 ''^ ' 302 I INK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUOAL, (g into Portiiauezc, and asked a notar}', who was one of tlie prisoners, to instruct nie in the prn|)er form. With this wc applied to the jniz de fora, uiio referred us to the corregcdor, and tiie latter demanded information of the two cserivaos who Jku! taken ns prisoners. The jailer now came to ns, saving" that the two eserivaos were very poor, that an unfavourable report from thenv would at If'ast \ igthen the affair, and, nniking the worst of the pointed knife, advised n»e to give iheni money. We therefore purchased a favourable report with a couple of crusades, upon which the corregedor liberated us; so that we remained only about eighteen hours ';; prison. ' We hatl already met an incident which may also afford some insight into the administration of justice in this country. We arrived one morning at Cezimbra, where a notary a[)peared as usual, read the portaria, and took leave of us very politely Toward evening the count and myself on our return from a walk tu CaHieriz, liad separated a little way from the town, the better to examine the country, as we could not here loose our way ; but the count had scarcely entered the town when some officers of justice met him,and demanded his passport. He assuvetl them he had it at the inn, whither they nnght conduct him and see it; but all he could say availed nothing, and he was taken to prison ; where indeed he was placed in a decent apart- ment, but exposed totlie curiosity ol a multitude of spectators. Here he was examined even to his shirt, and two pistols being found in his girdle, he was declared a very suspicious person, though the portaria permitted him to carry all kinds of arms; nor till he was thrown into prison was a message dispatched to me to send the portaria. I did so, not dnubtisig the count wo>ild imme- tliately return; but with the utmost astonishment I heard the answer of the alcaUle, that the juiz dc fora being absent he could not decide upon this affair, l-'ortunately we had spoken will) the juiz dc fora, who was a good kind of man, at Calheriz, whitlter a servant was sent in the night with the portaria. Meanwhile I was informed, that if the sei vairt did not return next morning, I must also go to prison. lie returned at three * These examples shew hof> iiiueli precaution iaDeceaury to iu jubtiie; and tliut the ulctiUc!) and esvrivuos an: u cluss of men among whom are o'clock.and brought positive orders imnicdiitJ to liberate the count; but the olilicers nfC.A would not suffer him to go withniu pajin'!!! their fees, which the count gave them, dcciJ he despised these men too much to troiihlei,; self any further about them, 'I he alcalde w™ also huvc kept the pistols, till the eoiuit (icda,! that he would immediately send a nicsien^ffl Lisbon withanaccountof the whok'transaeiinJ The road from Santa rem to Lisbon m^A first between the river and hills which latttrl soon ascends; these are very sauily, aiul, hcij covered with heath and pine-woods, t'„f^l striking contrast to the charming banks nfi river. On these hills is Cortaelui, two leagues from Santarem, a very large villao^ market-town, with many new and ncatliouJ situated, notwithstandingthe badness of thesl in a well cultivateil country. The sandy lieaj hills ternnnate toward Azambnja, a smalli containing from seven to eight hundral Iiou^ on a fine and well cultivated plain on the of the river. Two leagues farther, still puisul the river-bank, we came to a niarkct-tcjwnc/ Castanheiro, where is a good inn Ihi 'utsI nothing but corn-fields, olive-tree^ aiuli '1111781 landing |)lace, Haifa league beyoinl \'i ilnij is Alhandra, containing four or i\\c i ;;i|il hooses. Here we left the river for a wiiik, ascended cultivateil hills covered vi;l< m: trees, to Alveroa, consisting of about !',iir.,n • bed houses situated two K'a<>ues tV->iii L From hrnce we followed the river to Povos,! small market-town containing two biMilr houses At the parts where the rivci- over its banks much salt is made. At t!;.' vill;i;;(;| Srtccarem we passed a small river that t'allsi the Tagu» on a bridge of boats, fioiii tl place we were accompanied by a coiitinualsi cession of walls of (|uintas with luniscs iiitJ snersed to Lisbon, where the traveller may pj tiirongh several str.pets without knowiiis;! in the capital. I do not know a city wlios«^ cinity is announced at so great a distance. '' many rogues. They are indeed genrrally coiii|.liUMilj and the Jiiizes and the corre^cdors mt; every wlieieaaa of icreut pnrtiuUty to pentoxa uf rank. LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. :'».93 SECTION xiir. to Algrote — Road through the Province of Alemtejo — Serra de Monchique — Cape St. *" Vincent's — Lagos — Villanova —Louie — Preparation of Thread from Jibes. lloia, IVtlie bcs?iniii''g of September 1798 we retuni- ijfionirheabove extensive excursion through Lioitlirenpiovincesto Lisbon, where we con- Ll till the beginning of rebrnaiy _ 1791)- .ikn set forward ugai»i, crossing the river to huta from which place, to Agua '' the possessors of estates in Meck- fciiiir"'. The ctindc has another building near Duse, in which are rooms and beds for tra- ilers of decent appearance, whont he receives rone night, the inns being at a great distance Jill this place. The possessions of the conde are iluctive,o;id must be extensive, as they enable "proprietor to keep large lierds of cattle on the btlis. Hound the conde's residence are some tsaiits' houses, but rural economy seems in a ly backward slate lure, for neither the rse of jug nor plants for fo«!(lcr are known. [I'rom Palnia wc passe;uml' ninnai'chy. Purtut^ul, us fur hs it had then touqiit'red from the IVloorb, hud beoii foiilerrcd on jidc lleiiii(|U(>, in «'oi)Bet|iieiice of his iiiurriH^t; with fM, dtiugliter of the king of (.'ustik'. ili^i ^un Doio Wu Heiiriqiitz (or the bon of llinrirjiit'), cariied en hiii'ct'Siiivrly ugainft hia inotlitr, the Ciislili)in», and t!)o ii, mu), on the 'Jdth of Jnly 1 139> here auined n vic- f villi two thouKuiid men uver five Mooriw kini^s, wiko From hence the road passes over licath-hills to the river of Porta de Lama, the banks of which are likewise cultivated. Then follow hills of granite-breccia, with traces of sand slate, inftead of mere sand. Beyond these hills follows another valley watered by the Xarama, which here unite* with the Sadao, and forms the navigable river Sado. In this valley is the village of Porto del Key, near wliich is a very bad inn, where all travellers are ufually obliged to sleep in one room. We travelled constantly through wastes covered with heath and cisti ; only on high and dry situations appear the wiltl olive-tree, the termes-oak (({uercus coccifera), and the cistus Monspeliensis, which last begins in this place to be very common. Through the valleys, almolt all of which lie east and west, a river generally flows, the banks of which are cultivated. All these rivers take their rise in Upper Alemtejo and fall into the Sado. In. winter they swell astonishingly; we still saw the traces of tiieir ravages, and of their fertilization, and found it difficult to pass some of them, as we met with very i\\v bridges. They frequently render tra- vclli; 111 these parts wholly impracticable in wintc: vfcsscjana is a market-town, vhiih still has its old walls like some places in Spain, espe- cially in old C .-I lie. The level of tlje country here rises, and is coveretl with c in fields, which continue to Pomoyas, a niarktt-iown a league fiuther. IL-re wc came to the cdebnitcd field of battle called Carnpo de Ourltiuc*, a hilly and ill-cultivated country. Leaving the town of (Omuiue to our left, we enteretl on a road that leads to (iarvao, a village situated in a very pleasant valley The mouu- aecording to liistory were at the of un army of two hundred thousand men. He now rciu ued the title of kiii^, which he hud tisHuined liefore the buttli, iind culled hiinxelf I>oin AH'oiiso the dtd. lie wits prodhMued kii)^i;o, xyIkto an as- sembly of pvelates, nobility, and romnioiis was culled by the kin^ for that purpufe, and the independence cf Purtn- gul on Spain conlirmcd. tuinii Bill ;f,/,)l ;»■ :^] W. . ^ii- ' i i\ V li »-m««'^.«»*iM^wa^»» S9i riNKS TUAVELS [N PORTIGAL, i taini rlsoficm thonce to Aniortlras and San I\Iar- tiiilii), two small villaiics, (thougli laid dov.n in the maps as one,) on the declivity of ii iati)c.r high chain ot'mnnntains, lyiit-;' K. and 'tV , iicfbrc >>('ii;! df Monciiiiuic. Mf also saw joiuul Mar-, tinho some vtiy vcll-cultivatcd spots, and own fields .-aiwn ^ith t!a\. On the summit ot'tlitse mountains, \vc belitld 'iu- whok- range or" ISeira (le Moneh'u|iit' betorc ii-. in its direction from E. to ^\'. h', ing-cons'derably hiu,'!), hut nof --o i\>|I of peaks .'.s the r.KUintains ol" (.'intra and (ierez. The indenti'd ri('.ge of thc:ie n.ounlaie.s di^ ides Algarviii iVom .ilemrejo. A large hut: dl-ci.illiv..U'(l valley follows the mountains of Sa;' M-..'tinho. At length \\c eonr tinned onr way hetv/een low hills, after which Ave elinibcd tliespi.rs of the Serra ad, 'J he nearer we came to the highest part of the Scrra (le Monchique, which is called Scrra de Toi.i, llie deeper and narrower are the valleys; so that we saw nothing but an interminable depart wilh- outhouses, men, ortracesof cultivation. Leaving the summit of the mountain to the right; after travelling four long leagues through this desert, •wc arrived at the charming town of Monchicjiic. Monchique is a consideral)lc villa situated partly on thcdecli\ ity of the mountain, where 't is dii- persed in ajjieturesquc manner. Uy only ^ascend- ing a little above the tow n the spectator may he- hold tlie whole coafit of Algarvia witli its bays and rivers lying before him like a map. On the summit of the Serra de Toiu, lie will see not only th.o whole of Algarvia, hut alfo a great part of Alemtejo. Uounve uj,, through the villages of lk*m Safrim, liii(b,a| l{a|)osfira, to \'illa do lliipo, eight lea^iiieitM Moiiehicpic, as the neareit place to the d',,- 'Ihe villages here have a siiiguhirappe;!!; They arc large, stragglingly huilt'on cmiiu'iici and the churches, which are small .uid ne.ii, situated at a distance from them, butiiii \'illa do Ijispo. Hero we saw basalt in single mountain^ >i rounded as at Lisbon by liir.estone mnuiitain but the basalt was hiaekei, more eoinpaet ai sonorous, than round Jjsbon. l5asaltiMii stone in this pyrenean peninsula,- I knov, other traces in Spain except the speeinn'ii in innseum at Madrid, which was said to IkMuu .in Catalonia. 'J'he on!}' parts of Portui^.il «ii it is found aie tho.-e round Lisbon andCipt \'\\\i i lit. Of Algarvia I must here, for the sake of nTf, cr pci.sjdeiiity, gi\e a very brief ar.d (u.^nv count. This narrow tract of iand is siiia.aii tVom Alcmt()o iiy a biwkeii chain ut' iihuih;;! consisting ot .>aiulstone an(lanargillacei'ib>Ial gjinile (Jiily appeals on tlic S(ria ilc I'oi 'i'hcse sandstone mountains iirc and aad lv.iii They begin here beyond Villa do ifrspo t,i(i« the sea-shore on n.wTiilis, and coiiliuuc ast'jr the Chiadiaua. litre follows a chain nt' LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. 395 ^' 't; Tlievare "^^'"- TlVrc M>'-epare,|fo,. «t"islcti„„ 'I'liewartTjij U' nor smell ■'""""•. Miiitjil i?s take thnr f '.'*-• ^^'X'le 1110,1 ,"11 tlice desi =";<' t'liiliij, '154' to lllC V,; '' 'h'ic (|iiitt ^"ovtrid Hi;;, '■ "t-"'^'r toyj "■(■■(-'ii tlic >;,, 'iglif, and 't'tt, ,n; j,i>, '■"11, liiiikv,a| ^I't IfaiiiitM'n - to the C, "l/!r;i|)|)(M lit (Ml I'liiiiu'iiq l^lil .111(1 lliMl, 111. Slicilh iiioaiitaiib, J tone iiK!iiiitaiJ ic coiiijwit al Hasalt i^atl •1 .' 1 kimw ' !>|U'cill;L'liii!t iiiid to in' t'oiii I'ortiigM wii^ on ;iii(l C:i|ifl| 'm' sakeot';f|f| iiiid cuiiuiyj lilaa .S( n.i ill' I'oi .nd and Iv.ircj u i5is[)o (.aisel ill I ill lie ast'jrl chuiii o' \ houses, is surrounded by a high wall, be; )nd i» H vvhxh ,.^,;| -■'Mh •: )■! ■ i m^ mm ',t:ii. I; , d! II- !■!' '^.. V 596 LINK'S TRAVELS TN PORTUGAL. ■ I I l l WBaaasaasa • ii; I ! ] I wliicli is a tmall suburb, and is garrisoned by two toiiipanies, The river of Villanova (lows close to the wails, is here considerably broad (•iipxt to the (Jiiadiaim, which is the largest in Alj>arvia) and discharges itself halfa l(!ag-ue from thence between high downs into the sea. Two considerable forts, St. John on the east side and St. Catherine »)n the west, cover the entrance. AVe only saw one ship in the harbour, of which the bar is dana:erous and the sand-banks shifting. This harbour can theicforc be but of little im- portancc. \Vc passed the river in a boat, and pursued our way to Lagoa across a flat, pleasant, and rxtremeiy-well cultivated country. Lagoa is a market-town situated on a small lake, from which it derives its name, two leagues from Villanova. The soil is here soniew hat sandy, autl we saw pine-woods. Some wiiters erroneously place here the ancient Lacobriga. From hence to Louie, a distance of six league the road varies in the manner it usually difet ■' I Algarvia. At one time we crossed flat and weiL cultivated tracts, where h»rg* high ohve-tree spreading fig-trees, and the charn>iii{^ f.,fjjj''i tree*, in the corn-fields, afford a pleasant shade* and at another time we climbed rough stony limestone mountains, without any tmtes of ciilti. vation. Louie contains about one thousand six Im-, drcd houses, and is sitiuitcd in a broad vallevsur. r Minded by mountains of the limestone tiijii, which here attain to a considerable height, Tli« Cabe SECTION XIV. ■• ■ :.■:-.■'- .^- .->- . Faro — Cvlfivniion of the Fig Tree — Tavira — PcmnrUs on Mgnrvia — Villa Real — Account oj im Fishiri) there — Uituru from Algarvia through Alemtejo bjj Merlola, Serpa, and Evom, TT'ROiM Ijoule to Faro is a distance of only i. t\v{» leagues. At first the road passes through A j.'liMsaiit vallev alonr? a brook between limestone nioniitains, wliere large and beautiful carob-trers grow in the fields. Toward Faro the country becomes flat and sandy, being cover- ed With lieadis ,n\(\ cisti ; but in the neighb(rur- bood of the l(»wii the numerous gardens enliven the country, which is otherwise unfruitful. The citv of l'';u'() is situated on a plain, being a league frmn the sea, and on the bank of the rivrr Jy.t t^uartcira. The town is quite open, being built with considerable regularity, and tolerably broad streets; but chiefly consists of umall houses. It is the see of a bishop, a go- vernor, a brigadier, and a corregedor, contains * Tlir JiicJi ami IjiMiilifiil carob-frec grows in gront num- bers (ow jrd (>oiili', '\s a creat oriianu'nt to tliis province, of wliicli it is .1 native, atui ue found many bushes of it on the Larrcn iimcstoiie hills. I roiisider tlii.sai, the most beuutifni of i'!uro|)<'an trees; it alliiiu:, to a considerable hei<>;lit, al- ways ftirm.s a large wide shady vertex, and ils beauriful feathered cvirgrceu foliage, with small rouiidisli leaves, two parishes, three n>onasterie«, and one lliou- sand two hiuulrcd houses. There is a haiidsii;ii{ | s(]uare, with some considerable building?., situ. aled on tie narrow river, and on tine side isal puiall citadel. Large ships cannot come up tol the town, these being obliged to unload in lli(| road or lower down the iiver, N-^hich after raaiiyl windings formstthc narrow entraiice of the har- bour, a leagtie and a half belov, the town to the I south-east, where it is covered by the fort of Sail Louren^o de Olhao on the east side of theri\fl,| Another narrow arm of the river, orrHtlieiof the sea, forms an island, on which is the siiiidy cape of Santa Maria. The country toward iliej sea is marshy, and ()vergrown with marine plant! on the opposite side it is fiat and sandy, and at a I f^ives it a charming apiicarancc The many pods that him down from it have to us Germans a singular ellect It it al.so a useful tree; the wood is hard and icd, (he ripefruill is very commonly used as fodder for ciiltle, and especially I as mast for owinc, though inferior to (hat of^Xheevcr-grct'ii. oak. it is also eaten liy lucu, but chiclly for amuscinciii, aud to e.\cite an appctkoi distance! LINK'S TRiWKLS IN PORTUGAL. 397 I. jj„£j appear (Tie mountains of San Miguel, Lliich are rather high and sleep, but well culti- Ijled toward the base. ;-^ .:-'4 Faro still retains the greater part of the trade* ' f Al'rarvia, and *s long as lord St. Vincent blockaded Cadi/, much tratfic was carried on leiween li»is place and the fleet. The road tVoin Faro to Tavira, which is four IciiifURS i'ailhcr, continues always near the sea, Lfjs micommonl) pleasant: only a few small o(s near Faro are windy, and a few limestone jls iiutuKivated. Elsewhere, especially in the lu'hbourliood of Tavira, the whole soil is ex- Miiiclywell cultivated, and adorned between Jiecoin-iields alternately with olive, carob, and ilmoiid trees. Taviiii is a neat city contaiinng one thousand joiir liumlrod houses, fourniouHsteries, some neat M ciL'an streets and coiiBiderable bouses, of iliicli the principal is the governor's palace 31(1 walls divide the city from the suburhs; the for Sequa, over which is a handsome stone Ljjre, flows through the middle of it, and mall vessels come up as far as the In idge. The urroiiiiding country is one of the |)lo!i»anlest in Portugal; hills of the chain of lime-stone inoun- ainsttowd close round the town, which they Bcloscas it were with a wood of high shady ^ees, in whose bosom it seems to repose. The road ascended the river, un'f. 'i,i a hiiiUlinc; prepared for lat purpose, whi-re a syrup tlows from them, wliich is bed with advantage for waking brandy. They arc then governor of Algarvia is one of the highest in Portugal. All the t»thcr governors of the pro- ^h^ce are under biin; and as most towns have garrisons, and arc or should be fortified towns, the government is military. This small kingdom (Algarvia) according to the last enumeration of the governor, the Conde de Val de Reis, in 1780, contained ninety-three thousand four hun- dred and seventy-two inhabitants, of which six thousand five hundred and twenty-one were husbandmen, and Ave thousand tive hundred and seventy- five labourers. It lies close to the sea, and is well-cultivated; but this cultivation gene- rally extends scarcely two leagues inland, after which fidlow desert hills. Here are more wells than in other parts, probably the re- mains of M(M)rish industry; that people having continued longer in this than in the other pro- vinces. Oil is produced in great quantities, being considered as the best in Portugal, and ox- ported. The wine of this province is white, contrary to the general custom of the country, but is gord, aiul s;iipplies a part of Alemlejo. Fills cons' I'te the principal produce of Algar\ia, but ainiondb :'.re giovvn in considerable quantities, especially round Tavira, and are exported. The connnoLVpeoi>le li\e principally on tinb, and arc verv po()r. The iidiabitants oi' Algarvia are less refined and le^s polite than the rest uf the Por- tngne/.e, but their shrewdness and sharpne-is of wit are celebrated throughout the country. They are also ecnsidered as the bcttt mariners in Por- tugal; heme great minibers of them emigrate, and most of the boat-men at Lisbon are fionj, this province. The imis are uncouunonly bad, the whole house even at Tavira consisting of a small quadrangular room u{)on the ground, without windows or floors, with a stable in the neighbour- hood. From Tavira we went to Villa Real, a towa built by Pouibal, four snudl leagues from thence. In the neiglibonrhood of Tavira the country continues verv pleasant, but round Villa Real is sandy and naked. This town is situated at the nmuih of the Gnadiana, which is here a broad and line stream. It is built with perfect re- spread to dry in tiie sun, in an open situation, where they ate left a few days, in proportiiin (o file heat of thc- wrather ; after wliieh tliey are pressed into small baskets made of the leaves of the fan-palm, cacli containing twenty, eight pounds aud tent off. gularity. i 1 ! i r.': 'i'r' ■ i :'l! t, ;! •: ir ■! ■ . ■ i! il -I n 398 LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. I ] ' gnlarity, tbe streets in which are the handsomest houses heing on the bank of the river, and the smaller houses at a greater distanre. All the houses arc perfectly alike and well planned, and behind each is a square court with a back-door exactly similar to that in front. In each street, except those loading to the river, the houses are built alternately four with the front, and four V ith the back-door to the street. The pavement is extremely good, and in the middle of the town is a handsome square, in which the town-house stands. In short, nothing is wanting but inha- bitants; for a deadly .stillness reigns throughout the streets, a human ligure is rarely seen looking out of the handsome houses, and without a com- pany of soldiers the place would be qiiite empty. The greatest poverty every where appears. The country rourid the town is extremely sandy, the Boil often consisting entirely of quick-sand ; the downs are planted with fig-trees. This place is supplied with everything, even its daily bread, from Ayamonte, which thus generously nourishes a town intended to effect its destruction; for such ws the view of its founder. On the opposite side majcstitally rises, proudly looking down on the hither side of the river, the elevated Spanish bank, and on its declivity the large Spanish town of Ayamonte with a number of handsome towers. A greater neatness and cleanliness instantly distinguish the towns of Spain from those of Portugal. Ayamonte was once the seat of great Moorish kings. In former times the tournaments of Ayamonte were much celebrated, and in Spanish poetry and romances the high sounding name and example of the Guadiana often occur. Not far from thence and nearer the sea is a well-built and neat market- town, called Figuerita, peopled by Catalonians whom Pombal drove away, and now flourishing by the emigrations of the Portugueze. It wjis easy to go over to Ayamonte with a passport from the juizde fora at Villa-Real, the Spaniards at this time generally not being strict, which if they had been, the inhabitants of this place must have starved. Hy this channel much contraband trade was carried on with Portugal, especially in silk and fine cotton manufactures. The situation of Villa-Ilcal and the fishery on this coast arc interesting subjects. A league from Villa-Real is Monte Gordo, now consisting only of a few huts, from which, however, the whole coast and the fishery take tlieir m i Previous to the year 171 1, the fishery was.l known in this part of the country. An j bitant of Castromarim, named Antonio Go" first fished here for sardines iu 1711 and 1*1^ he was followed by some Catalonians, whofij built a few huts, and were joined by deo-rees Ij other Catalonians and Andalnsians. These gan to use better nets, and brought tlio fisi, Ayamonte, where they were salted. At first iki fishermen paid no duty at Castromarim, bul afterwards ihoy came to an agreement with tin farmers of the customs, to whom the increase. the fishery was very beneficial, accordine which they only paid about five or six per W whereas in other parts of the kingdom the refjula tax amounted to thirty per cent. The fisheJ now increased very much, and in 1750 tbJ were twelve large fishing-smacks belonging J Castromarim, and fifty to Ayamonte, San LuJ and the Catalonians; and in 1774, the niinibi of the whole amounted to a hundred, fifleent which belonged to Castromarim. The streets ol huts extended a league from the mouth of tin Guadiana to the old town of Caccia, and IhouA many of the fishermen only remained here diiriBi the season, viz. from the z4th of August totlj 25th of December, yet many others had settle! there. It is true, the Spaniards enjoyed the cliii] advantage of this trade, but many" Portiiguo still derived the" support from it; and, althoud, th''s object might require the attention oftlil government, it did not follow that the wholj fishery should be destroyed, rather than conca a small advantage to their neighbours. Pombal took up this business hastily, and will des|)otic force, so that within five nu>ikth$ Villi Real de san Antonio was built by his ordeti every thing that concerned the fishery and thf fish trade transferred thither, and the htitsi Monte Gordo burnt. Many of the soldiers i the troops at Tavira, who were present atthj '.xpedition, assured lis they were exposed to tbf greatest danger from the rage of these fisherraeii The foreigners were driven away, and lost togi ther with tlicir huts all their little propert)! This measure was exactly in character with tW maxims of Pombal. To all the inlmbitants of Villa Real ten centof the duty on the fish caught was dbatel for some years, viz. from thirty to twenty cent LINK'S TRAVELS IN PORTUGAL. $99 I /wliich hovrcTer properly only amounted to 'tneen five or six per cent) ; on salted sardines Ithine w«« in general paid, and nothing on ex- tation; l»ut on *l'e importation- of foreign ''"icii'n sardines a heavy tax was laid. To pre- / . foiitraband trade, and enforce the payment f (he duties, the minister employed much sevc- ' V and no mariner or fisherman was permitted fliiit Algarvia without a passport from the C^hief inspector of the c:istoms of the southern Bfovinces or his delegate. - To procure plenty of Jitlie minister ordered salt-pans to be dug at Castromarim, and the salt to be sold for nine hundred rces per bushel. Eight companies were ,vv formed, each of which were to have six .tat fishing smacks with other snwll-craf't. fbese companies were obliged to sell a thousand jirdines for three hundred roes, if no other pur- Ithaser offered ; for though Pombal was an enemy monopolies, he constantly gave theui birth. _Ju8t of the members of these companies engaged ■Dthenr to flatter the minister, were ignorant of Hhc business, did not usually reside at Villa Real, Ld were obliged to rely on their agents. A jtompetition soon arose between these companies, iho employed the same means t.; ruin one ano> jier, and the heavy duty imposed by Spain on fo- (iirnsalt fish completed their destruction. When Pombal fell, the losses, which the nembers of these companies hud sull'ered, ceased. \a 1777, from forty-eight lishing smacks the Iniimbcr had diminished to ten; but from this niinc (0 1782, the fishery again somewhat in- Icreased, in consequence of the duty in Spain eiog taken oflf. It again immediately sunk on Ithe duties ill Spain being raised; but as on fish not salted no duty was now levied in Spain, they [were all brought to-i^^iguerita, where they were ahed. In 178.% no less than eight hundred IPortuguezo Hshermen emigrated thither, and in J|790, of three thousand fishermen at Ayamonte liDd Sail Lucar de Darramcda, two thousand iive Ibuiidred were Portuguexe. From Villa Real to Castromarim it is usual to Uo bj water up the Guadiana and a branch of Itliat river on which it is situated ; for by land it lis necessary to make a great circuit of two leagues [round another arm of the Guadiana, whereas this Ipaisage is performed in a quarter of an hour. iThebank of the Guadiana on the Portugueze liidc is marshy, and some salt is made. Castro- Imarim is a market-town lurrounding a hill^ ou Vol. II. No. XCVII. which is an old ruinous cf.stle n ( now fortified, Near Castromj;rim immediately rise mountains of the chain that divides Algarvia from Alemtejo^ growing higher as they approach the north. Here and there we saw cultivated spots, and passed through 8on diana for Castromarim, which renders Mertola a lively place, the road by land being inconvenient. We crossed the Guadiana to go to Serpa, a town seven leagues from Mertola on the opposite side of the river. A more extensive desert does not perhaps exist in Portugal ; at first we only saw a couple of houses and some fields, then another house half way, but every where else till within a league of Serpa only hills and mountains ; nor did we meet any man in this desert. At a dis- tance to the eastward we saw many chains of mountains which join the Sierra Morena. To the left of the road is the Salto de Lobo, ""5 1 where m I VII :f. I i. :■ ' ;i ill* m •Mi: ■■ m n , ^f. IF: 400 LfNK'S TRAVKLS IN POllTUGAt. wlicrc the Guadiana forces its way between narrow roiks. 'J'his name, wliich aignifies the wolf's-leajy, reinin«U'd us of the horsc-lcup in the Hart/ niuiintain.s in Germany^ but the Bude \i an inconsi(l(!ra!)li! brook compared to the Guadiana. About a league before wo arrived at Scrpn, the ])rospc(t ("hiini:;r(!. The cistus gave place to pas- tiui'^ and Hue woods of ever-green oaks, and close to Serpa are fruitful corn fields. Ijierpa is •in open cheerful place, much more populous tlinii MertoKi, contains four thousand inhabitants, and sliows considerable signs of thriving. "We again passed the Guadiana a league from Scrpa, where it winds among mountains which are lower and more gentle than round Mertola. At Serpa w« came to the great granite plain, which extends from thence beyond Beja and Evora as far as Montemor o novo, forming thebest and most fruitful part of Alemtejo. The city of Beja is situated on a gentle hill in a fertile country rich in corn. It is a very old place surrounded with walls and gates, is the see of a bishop, a eorregedor, and a governor. Vidigueira, which is five long leagues from Serpa, is a small market-town, in an extremely charming country. On one side is the fertile plain, on the other immediately beyond and close to the town rise mountains, the valleys of which are adorned with quintas and orange-gardens, and a large gothic church on *0e fore-ground im- proves the gaiety of the scene. Every thing has a tranquil cheerful appearance, and the traveller is richly compensated for the deserts of A^enltejo. Here are about two thousand inhabitailts. Ileyond the mountains the high fertile granite- plain continues, and to the left appears the Serra (le Viana, consisting of low mountains in which ■were formerly silver mines. To the right is the Serra de Ossa, a fertile and, on one side, well- cultivated range of mountains, with a rich mo- nastery of Paulists. Between this Serra and Evora we sarr Evorf\monte on a high hill. \Ve perceived Evora at a great distance, as it is situ- ated on an eminence. The nearer we approach- ed this tovrii, the worse was the cultivation. Evora is the chief town of Alemtejo, and the see of an archbishop, a eorregedor, a provedor, ajuiz, &c. It is indeed surrounded by walls, which however are fallen down in many parts, but in other respects it is quite open. CoimUl Oporto, iind Evora. are the only towns Ihrongh out Portugal, where the passports of lravel|. are not demanded immediately on their arrival' while there no attention is paid to them. Ti,' town consists of narrow crooked streets full J angles, with high gothic buildings ami ii imn,!,^,] of old gothic churches, by which it u iiiueh dj J tinguished from most other towns in this \^\S dom, where the houses are indeed small an- low. Tl)*'! monastery of Franciscans partituUtlJ deserves notice. The cathedral church is situjiej] in the highest part of the town, and has twenty. five prebends, each with an income oi livo ihoii. sand crusades. Adjacent to it is the arclibislioi)', house, and not far from that the shambles, ai old Roman building, .vhose well-preserved co rinthiau columns are now connected byiip|a,(pf^ wall. On the north side the aqueduct cntcrMhi town, and is commonly called the aqueduct ofj Sertorius, having been begun by him, though i| is well known to have been built by John HI, . Evora was once an university, and still enjoyr that privilege, but, since the time of Pouibilj has fallen to decay. It was formerly a verjceleJ brated place. Evora is an old town, but hai much dwindled since the fifteenth century, now contains at most twelve thousand inhahitantij of which the enormous proportion of twenty three religious houses may be the cause. ltsaii« cient name was Ebora in the time of the Ilomaiii. Julius Ca;sar constituted it u municipium named it Liberalilas Julia. The IVioors cnn*j quered'it from the Goths in the year 71;), bntiol 1 106 it was taken from them by Gerald suruatned^ the Intrepid (Geraldo Sempavor. ) Thin mio got into the town in the day-time, and in the evening went upon the wall where he cut oil the heads of two centinels, then descended to the gate, and let in some troops statiimed near it. On the north side of Evora the hills rise, be round the town adorned with gardens, and on their summits with ever-green oaks. The road from hence to Montemor o Novo, which is five leagues distant, passes over granite-hills partly covered with corn-fields and partly with fiat woods of ever-green oaks and pastures, which give great variety to the prospect. From Mon- temor we returned to Lisbon. <:fr>»uf/" ci" J? ff fiiiii^ THE END OF LINK'S TKAVELS IN PORTUGALi ! '^ t. ,,,..,.,w.^ TRAVELS .., r;: THROUGH : . ' / GERMANY, SWITZERLAND, ITALY, AND SICILY. ; 1 v,t BY .. : 'n«i • ■■ FREBERIC LEOPOJLn €OUJ¥T STOILBERG, - : SECTION I. / : hurnni to Diisseldorf — Description of the Picture Galleri/ at Diisscldorf — Fiotils on the Rhine d(.\cfHh'd — y'alh'.i/ of Elbe rf tide and its Frottpcritj/'— Cavern of Leuchtenhurg — JMonks of Ln 'I'ra^pc—Pcmpclfort. .-, .. i , WE set sail, with a favourable wind, on the Elbe, and, ill one hour, from Altona we learhed Ilanrburgh. Of Wcstplialiaand Lower Lsony there is not mucli to remark jMauy jlhanks arc due to the rcgeucy of Ilauovcr, for Ihe culture bestowed upon these deserts. In the Lrls under this governincut we saw the half karren waste covered with beautiful (ields of rye, kood potatoe grounds, nay even wheat, peas, hnd barley ; where the indolence of the inhabitants would scarcely have produced rye and buck wheat. Near Bomte, where the Osnabrug domains jegin, the prospect brightens. Between the lowns of Bointe and Osnabrug, we saw the ma- otic oak, which has continued to be the subject Ifutonisiinient for centuries. Ou the 6th of July, 1T9I, wc remained at Osnabrug, and the next day proceededf to Miin- Iter; where we remained two days and a half, irhich we spent chiefly in the company of the Priacess Gallitzio and the Baron of Fursten- wrg*. We left Miinster early on the J 0th, and the lollowing morning arrived at Miihlheim on the Ruhr. Here, for the first time, during a journey pf two and forty miles, we had a truly beautiful jirospect. On each side of the valley, through * Germany acknowledges (he merit of this great states* Rani He secured the rights of the peasantry, inspired the noiiks with industry and patriotism, gave order to the war bipartmcDt, awakened a general thirst for knowledge, and which the meandering Ruhr pursues its course, we saw the b(»ld projecting rocks, clothed with ha>:g- ing woods: beyond them the mountains rose, covered with forests, and interspersed with plains of different elevations, all bedecked with rich and variegated fertility. We arrived at Pempel- fort at two in the afternoon. The famous picture gallery at Diisseldorf de- serves particular notice; but as I am not a con- noisseur, I cannot admire a picture that speaks to the eye only, and not to the heart. The most inimitable deceptions, whether of painting or poetry, if they place no living image before me, to me are equally uninteresting. The Diogenes, seeking an Ironest man in the thronged market-place with a lantern at noon- day, displays great invention. Rubens has given to the face of the philosopher the expression of bitter, but half-concealed irony. The crowd, different in sex and age, cannot conceive his meaning, and laugh at his folly. The malicious painter has introduced his own wife; yet certainly he did not mean seriously to characterize her as a fool. What various marks of folly has he communicated to the multitude! IIow perfectly docs the philosopher appear the only man among them ! The very spirit of Diogenes seems to have inspired the painter. He had certainly retircil with unwearied perseverance laboured to gratify the noblo craving. It was he that promoted the pure and benevolent love of science through the schools and seminarits, from the highest to (he lowest degree. withiai i . I ' it; 11': \ •■ >: U \ 'III ■■M ( li' ■I'. 1M-, tjiiili'i 'it' I n;i r -' "H ' ll»i i ■'■■■■ ■-'■»>a»>W(»w,^iw«!aa»«ii«i»f 402 STOLBERG'S TRAVFLS THROUGH ^< itliiii himself, and, deep in contemplation, had ^tudied each countenance, before hif< magic pen- cil could 8o truly delineate this ample heriUige of full grown folly. His action is neccsHnrilj confmed to the moment; yet he artfully leads the fancy through many successive generations. Oh Rubens, hadst thou been present when Diderot, sfunding to view the picture, imagined himself the hero, and exclaimed to his guide. Vest Diderot en Ilollande! i. c. // /« Diderot in Hol- land! thou wouldst have immortalized the self- sullicient mien of thv. man on thy canvas! Diogenes would not have put out his lantern in his presence, but probably would have assumed an air of more keen and bitter satire. Had Rubens read Milton's Paradise f^ost, the painter would have soared beyond himself on the wings of the poet, would have added dignity to his Fallen Angels, and would more cmphalicully have imparted to them their inherent malignity. The victorious angel, in pursuit of Satan as he descends, bearing the flaming sword, and in- vested with the power of the Almighty, is not unworthy the Michael of Milton. This picture will ever remain the work of a great genius. Sir Joshua Reyi>olds tore himself from it with regret, and exclaimed, " Other pictures are ex- cellently painted : here alone colours are made to speak." The most famous picture in this great collec- tion is the St. John in -the Wilderness: by some ascribed to Raphael ; by others to Andrea Sarpi. The noble figure of the youth, above censure, or rather inimitably beautiful and dignified, ir- resistibly attracts and fixes the attention; and, when at last you have left it, you are again and again brought back*. The Assumption of the Virgin, by Gutdo, is one of the greatest ornaments of the gallery. Devotion, rapture, divine benignity, inspire and dignify the matron; and, in all their !ii*tre, seem to bear her to her native heaven, which opens for her reception. I did not see the Holy Family of Raphael; it -was not in the gallery, but was sent to be en- graved. * Tlic history of Ihis painting is singular. One of the keepers of the gallery was retouching a damaged Landscape, in water colours, which was not without merit. That wliich he had supposed to be mere canvas he discovered to be coated with oU-colours. Curiosity induced him to pro- iiie.l atlil Rubens had certniulv read Dante with all I tiojr. The noble and inventive genius ot tTl poet inspired him, when he painted his D J J Judgement. Yet he is unequal (o Dante" J picturing both the good and evil spiiilg. 'fil'l rage of the one, and the rapture of tlieoth I are more exquisitely described by the Florcnii" The figure of the Judge of the worlj i* bene; criticism. The figure of the saint in ihg fj,j ground is noble: but how many thanks arcdni to the painter, for the chearful counttniaiice lie has bestowed on the rising negro? The idea ,if| .skeletons half clothed with flesh, luul slnufglinJ into existence, is worthy of Dante or of iViJitJ' They are well contrasted with the already risen • and appear like the sappy buds of the n>liii| spring, swelling into life. Not only the falling deception of the burninei lamps, and the glimmering matches on t||7 ground, but the animated characters of the Wik and Foolish Virgins, by Schalken, rank thiil picture among the best in the gallery. f The Adoration of the Shepherds, by RnbemJ is very fine. On one side, in the clouds, d angel is seen, with his hands folded on his breaitii an angel such as Raphael might have painted. The Mary of Medicis, by Rubens, drew on attention. In these noble, ardent, gentle, poetici| traits, the physiognomist would discover tk rank which « Mary de Medicis would hold ij society. Christ afilOng the Doctors in the Temple, bJ Vander Werf, appears to me as worthy of tin subject as a picture can be. Youth, beautrj benignity, grace, and wisdom, beam in the j^ like boy. Sages, such as you might imagisi Gamaliel and Nicodemus to have been are listdi^ ing to his discourse. No collection contains so many of the \ro[| of Rubens as this: but I am told his best pro' ductiofls are to be found in the towns of Brabant] The gallery is poor in pictures by the Italiii masters; and not to be compared withthoseo^ Dresdon. It is likewise deficient in Landscap The Diisseldorf academy is furnished witll many excellent casts, from antique statues. 11 ceed; and a most beautiful body began to be visiblot Ilil saw the hand of a master, washed away the water colonn^ and restored in full perfection the great work, that had* long remained buried in darkncci. Cl-RMANY, SWiTZRWr.AND, ITALY, AND SiriLY. 405 li|.(wiie rich in engravings: and, were it not, nuinfrou* drawings, by Raphael, which it f, give it a value which few collections ytqual. ji timber float having been announced, we went Piijwldorf to see it; for which purpose we U a boat, and rowed up the Rhine. The was seen from ufar, and a swimming village; we or fcyv ■gyoftlie oars jfrttly discovered h is the appearance of the wooden huts that built on the flout. Four »)f these lloufs go v Mininicr from Andernach to llolland. j, ii about a thousand feet long, and a hun- ind thirty wide. The number of floiitnieu four hundred and fifty. The rapidity of the HI, and the bulk and unwieldiness of tlie float tih' navigation dangerous. The passage, if will be from six to seven days; but, if the erbelow, and the wind violent and adverse, lay be as many weeks. Several anchors* are (d, and the float lies at anchor every night. strong motion of the float drags them at but this motion slackens, and the float at remaiiK^ stationary. The worth of the wood Ivliich the float is composed is estimated at five idrcd thousand florins. The toll it pays is \i Diiiiseldorf it amounts to a hundred iixioc. pistoles: at Kaiserswerth, eighty oles; anJ the Prussian tolls are still more >re, The daily maintenance of the fluatmen timated at upward of a hundred rix dollars. p»v of eaeh man, for the whole voyage, is Iv live rix dollars. Having arrived at their e of destination, they form themselves into icj, of seven each, club their pay, and then it for the whole, and the losers are obliged to their way home. The good cheer of the itmen during the voyage delights and well re- I them for their labour. We saw fat oxen the float, and were informed that one yt?t ^htered daily. The cabin of l''*z master is as ioui as that of the captain of .m eighty gun The wood of the float is chiefly for the of flooring and carpenters. e next went to Elberfelde, which town lies smull valley on the Wupper, which empties ilf into the Riiine. The peculiar quality of naters of the Wupper maintains four popu- towns; the principal trade of which is hing. The valley is about two leagues and the high hilla on each aide are covered oL.II. No.XCVII. •■- with the beech and the ash, and skirled with corn fields, meadows, pasture!), and gardens, iu various and rich fertility. The four towns which the Wupper waters arc Rittcrshuusen, W'jpperrehle, Gemurk (or IJarini'ii). n»d El- berfelde. Rarmeu is a colony of Klherfrldc; of which it is the rival, both in iiiduMry and pros- p<, its swarn)ing inhabitants, \U nieauderine; atrcatn, now deep and silent, now rapid and sliallow, its bold projecting rocks, hollow beneath, and loaded above with thick woods (hat shade the horizon, the honest, prosperous, and h.tppy ap- pearance of its people, some dwelling in neat towns, others in scattered houses that ornament the vicinity; these objects, individually and col- lectively, give unspeakable pleasure. Here in- deed abundance every where reigns. On our return from Elbcrfelde we went to Metmau, a town four leagues from Pempelfort. Passing through corn fields that had been reaped, we entered a beech wood, and suddenly beheld an uncommonly v ild mass of rocks that fixed our attention. Proceeding through a wide opening, we went into a cavern, into which light had two entrances, that were unperceived by us. We suddenly came to a deep precipice, with high rocks in our front; and they, like the cavity in which we stood, were loaded with trees, their sides were adorned with shrubs and ivy> and at their feet flowed the rapid Diissel. This cavern is called the Leuchtenburg. We returned through a narrow passage, which brought us to a projecting clifi; where, that we migiit t!>e bet- ter look into the abyss beneath, wp laid ourselves down, and each held the other in turn. This clifl* is called Rabenstcin ( or Ravenstone. ) From this we passed into a small £rotto, called the Engels Kammer, or Angel's Chamber, and saw a black gulf on the other side, which people have named the Teufels Kaiumcr, or Devil's Chamber. Half a le.)gue from this there is a monastery of the relig'ous order of La Trappe; of which there was only one in Germany, one in France, and one in Italy founded. The monks of this order renounce the use of speech; the prelate only, undei certain restrictions, is allowed to in- fringe this rule. We saw the prelate, but he K shewed 'Kjf ^ 1 I I ■ ■ ! I "'; r!': : w ,rl. ! 'i;ht ih to i high banks o\' the Rhine, beyond wliich «« still more lofty heights, terminating in therocll summits of the seven hills. On some of i heights are seen the ruins of old caslh-^: In oil parts the daring hand of nature projects tluMwii hanging fearful cliff, (hat seems to bra\e ili| shock of time. The lust of the scvt n liiiU, wli is called Drarhenstein (Dragonstone), ap|icu to he the largest. Between Rheinmagen and Andernarli wci !>eld the miijestic course of the Rhine. Bcforl us lay the ancient town of Andertiach, yviih i| gothic wi;il and towers. As we determined I lay all night at Andernach we approuchdl shore, took a boat, and were r<^wed between liij lulls that were clothed with banging viiieyaiil( m ?i \f, 11 'ir'U: «^ m KH i54 :J f h'l i i t ,:r". 1 . I ?5-t ■ ; - i " w| :>ll iveniiii? wli| air, ives i< hailing ' [beii'l? Islii'ft' to sli Half of GERMANY, SWITZF.riLAND, ITALY, AND STCfTX 4C5 1-, j^ white insects in swarms fluttering in tlic I eninir air, and in swarms saw them end their r J lives in the stream. "VVe passed Neuwied, Ik iling between rows of tall poplar; and the wind Pji,„ against us, we traversed the river, from I liorc to si'^'^e. <•" we can'ft to Andernath. Half 'I It'i'iiJ"*-' t"rom Coblcnlz we passed the I aliice of Schonbornlnst, where the fugitive ILlluTs of the king- of France then resided. Irnblfiiitz is at present full of Fiencli oniijjrants ; j..|.,],pv crowd the streets in parties, and hurrv to I ij jyo, some in carriages, some on horseback, I nil some on foot; so that their numbers seem lfi)(lii-ss. The cross of St. Louis is at every button 'lie small town of Ems, famous for its minora! Iviatcrs lies i" » deep narrow vale, that is watered Lvtiic Lahn, in the road between Coblentz anil iWau. Along this river, and between the jiiiountains, lies the road to Nassau, which is Isituiitt'd in a fertile valley and surrounded by jriicks. On one of flie hills stand the ancient Iruiiisof the castle of Nassau, from whence that Ifainous house derived its title. Schwa! bach and Wisbiid«n, both celebrated Ifor their mineral waters, are seated among these liiiouiilaii s, which arc inters|)ersed with fruitful Inlains. There is a beautiful prospect about a jliaitucfiomWisbaden, from which a long ce time of divine service an»(uig the Chnsdiiis. The road between Frankfctrt and Dannsfadt is very sandy. At Darmstadi we \isited the cele- brated English garden! and on the Hiii of Au- gust passed the Bergstrasse, (a noble chain of mountains) that extends from T)armsf.i(U to Hei- delberg, which is one of the most pleasant and remarkable roads in Germany. It is seven miles long, and grew more beautifni as we approached Heidelberg. To our left lay the lofly uninter- rupted chain of mountains. Opposite to these the Melibokus rears its head, on the top of which the late landgrave built a white watcli tower. We had seen this tower some miles be- fore we came to Mentz. It may be seen from Pirm.icenz on the frontiers of Lorrain. The ruins of old castles, built in the feudal ages, are seen on the other mountains. The wine in these parts is called Bergstrassler ( Franconian. ) It is cooling, and resembles the small kind of Rhenish, or the wine of Saxony. Heidelberg lies behind a hill, round which we travelled, an.! had a view of the Neckar, with the town Liilt on its banks. Heidelberg is situ- ated in a snail valley, and |)art of it is built on the declivity of a hill, with the old castle much above it, though far from the top. The old counts Palatine and electors, cut in stone after the ancient German manner, are placed in deep niches between the windows. A deep moat, planted with trees, surrounds the castle; but a large part of one of the vast round towers is fallen, and lies in ruins on the side of the moat. VVe continued our journey on the following morning through Brucluul and Durlach, and arrived at Karlsruh in the afternoon. Bruchsal is u well built town, where the bi«liup of Spi.es resides in a beautiful palace, and where ' archives are du. poitited. Thcro is a good coIIpi;u lit this city ; and in the Mtbedral there arc sixty-three copper vr^seis lull of water, sciences but in the arts: several good painlerjl and engravers have been educated here. I The roads of Wiirtemberg on the way to rim are excellent. The districts beside the Ncckar are as fertile as they are delightful. The sniali town of Esslingen lies on this river; wlnclil waters a beautiful valley that abounds in pasture* fruit trees, and fruitful fields. ''I Among the hills llohcnstaufen rises incircularl beauty, which may remind the (lermaii patrintnfl its noble antiquity. This was tluMradIc of uiirl kings and emperors, from the Swabian line: i| line equally renowned in history for its goniuJ its courage, and its misfortunes. I From the valley near Gishlingen the road cun. stantly ascends as far as Ulm. Tlow much Iiighctl must the source of the Danube be than f'^it ofl the Rhine! When a few leagues from UimtJiej Glaciers of Switzerland may be perceived; in- deed they may frequently be seen to the distance of forty leagues, The count acquaints iis thatbel -saw the Glaciers from the sao'c parts, and like«isli) and Ueberlingen; though they are part of the principal lake, except that the lake of Zoll communicates only with the lake of Con- stance by the ce-rse of the Rhii>e. Each of these small lak s is adorned with an island. garments, and' a very iiidiistrioiis set of people, hut ex- treiueiy ohstin.Ke. If is boun, i ''*: ■'Wi hi! r,''' fj 'jl ■ 'k : , iO% STOLBERG'S TRAVELS THROUGH The Switzerland shore, ia o\i\y half a quarter qf a league from Thor; anil two leagnes on the lake of Zcll, i^ the small island called Reichenau. Here is a rith benedictine abbey, under the government of the bishop of Constance'. This place is of great antiquity, and boasts of the relics it possesses ; among which is an emerald, an ell long, about half as broad> and twenty- nine pounds weight! The monks say it was a present from Charlemagne. Whether this pre- tended emerald be a piece of green glass, of vitrification, or of spar, savs the count* I leave the naturalist to determine; the [)reciou8 jewel was valued by the monk at three millions, yet he did not forget to detail the poyerty of the monastery. Opposite to the island is Arenenherg, on the Switzerland side, in the district of Ihurgau; which belongs to the eight old cantons. This hill is not higlij but pleasant from its beech woods, its rivulet and charming prospect. The council house here has, among other curiosities, the arm chair in which the emperor Sigismund and Pope Martin Y. of the family of Co|onna sat. Here the peopl^ shew the place where in 1415, John Hqss^ and two years after- ward, his friend Jerome of Prague, who was at I coiirj,,! are tli. first more timid, but who heeanM no let geous, were bvirot. Here iq a house „,t ,.^ effigies of. John Hum, carved in stoue, withik*! date of the year 1415. Perhaps he lived in tpl house, when the emperor granted bitu a n \ pert to conduct him safely to Cqnstancc. Constance, or Kostnitz, is one of the oldeil cities in Gertna,ny. It was a free imperial city I was in alliance with the d^kes of Austria, wal often obliged to take part with the confederate and was again brought back to it» formej alliances under the emperor Maximilian. John) Huss and Jerome of Prague were burned here I althoych a hundred years aflterwards, it waj one of the first to declare in favour of the doctrines of | Luther. It b^s, however, lost part of its former! grandeur*. The island of Meinau, which is a full lea. cicnts. It was taken by Attila, and afterwards posMised }>y the old French kings; and in tlieir records it is called Vill* legia JDugoberti regis. It is at f resent a w«U*buiii den, Lindau, Constance, and other parts. The I goo(|a were unloaded here, because of its vicinity to the fall of the Rhine. From these the town I took ita name. In the Switzerland, Swabian, and Auftrian dialect! the word Schafien sigalGcs ta buy and sell. - Tl^e.fa)! of the Rhine is an object so grand and magnificent, that no description can do it justice. Here the broad stream, among bold cli0s, overgrown with trees, collects its waters in a prodigious mass; which, thopgh disturbed, here and. there rises in circles of translucent place, is popnloui, and hu a coasiderablo trade. Its for. tifications are strong, and its public buildings Tcry miigoi. ficent. Hero is likewiac an uniTenily, which was translated from Friburg in 1677. It is thirty.fire miles N. L of Ziirlcbi and ctstjr.two from Ubi. .;• I 1 ,1 . . ■iitj .,1, L. -.• I grf:nr ^ ^egg coi,r^,| ousfi are tli/ I «uu a pass.1 :ancc. I ."f ♦'!« oldest! «ni|)erial city I Austria, wajl confederates I o »«» formwl nilian. Joh^l burned here,! Is. it was one 1 je doctrines of I t of its former! J a full leagm I lake of Con- rlingcn. ItijI id seems to rise ■ This small 1 wish; and the the world and a very lively and Militarn of Ziirkh. r parts. The I of its vicinity | hese the (own I ind, Swabian, laflTea sigaifici ject 80 grand on can do it among bold cts its waters igh disturbed, f transluceat trade. Its for. iiigs very nuigoi. !h was translated ! miles N. li of grr.nr 'It/!;: . r): fe^ ■i-'ii i* w:.-iK m ■» f{-ifi. n^ 'U'S iw> Is, gs i GERMANY, SWITZERLAND, ITALY, AND SICILY. 40D \m l«r/>cn' nnJ' ^^'^^ thumlcrlng din and raging ini- I .tiiosity, diviJing itself into three unequal V^taracts, dashes headlong against the rock bc- tliiii daringly resists (he ungover«"«blc liiry j'|,t; torrent! Daring and dignified, yet not liiiMiscd ; as the deep cavities in its bed, and "nerrorated sides, too plainly shew. On the jVi'st of these high shores, to the right of the ilerfull, ii»tbclcrritor\ of Schatt'bausen, stands (liifttd mill. Opposite to this, in the district CflliLfiiiiton of Zurich, on a very high rock, is Lt lie castle of Lauscn A stranger is first V , beside the thread mill, where he is suddenly iirnri/ed, s»>d hi» astonishment pleasingly yet Icrriblv excited. He is then led, by a small liiidiiiir P*^'' round the foot of the hill, to a cir- Lar IwsDii of the stream; and, being there [liiicd opposite to the waterfall, he learns that \( cataract, at which he has been amazed, is JbriiieJ only by the shores and a rock that projects Lt of the stream, which constitutes about a Ifili part of the waterfall. Here he perceives |,e whole stream compressed between its rocky kres and three insulated clifts. He is then Llicn into a small boat, passes the cataract on lie (lancing waves, and is landed on the side of fcuticli. Here, below the castle of Lausen, is a allolding built over the waterfall. He is [bliiird to wait a short time till a small door is [peiied, the key of which is kept in the castle, Liding inamediately over the stream, and listcn- L lu its thunder. He then looks down upon k terrific gulph. The imagination, over- lowcred, is dreadfully persuaded that it shall be [iirried into the deep. No possible idea can be brnicd of the force of the water, or of the re- tslless violence with which it rushes. The poet enz standing here, struck his thigh, and ex- llairaed, " Uier ist eine WasscrhdUc ! i. e. " Here a water hell." After a fall thus rapid t'.ie liatcr is projected back to a great height, forming I cloud, white and dense as the smoke of a forge" iliitli conceals all beyond it. Every bush on lie rocky shores is dripping: when the sun ims (he colours of the rainbow play in the ji^otli and the rising vapours. The town of Schaffliausen was first admitted Hto the league of the confederates in 1501 ; bc- liorc which it was an imperial town, whose Wghershad ever been bold. and ardent in the • SchaJhausca tf twcuty-two miles N. by cause of frccilom. Its constitulioi in a mixture of aristocracy and domocrary *. Eglissau is a municipal town of the canton of Ziirich, and is aituutcd in a small valley on both sides of the Rhino, \>hi(h, winding among nar- row rocks, pursues its rapid course in a right line, rolling its waves among leafx hills, till it again takes a curve, and agiiin concealed by the rocks is lost to the eye. The little (()\vn of Eglissau is uncommonly pleasant; itt> houses de- note the acti\e benevolence of freedom. The whole taxation of the citizens, an inconsiderable rent excepted, consists in the tythcs of tlit'ir com and wine. These tythi.-s efl'ectually amount to a tenth of the pr(»duce, and are collected in kind, for the maintenince of the clergy, and the muni- cipal oflicers. They originated in the church tythes, which were abolished at the reformation, when the magistracy took upon itself the support of the schools and clergy. The same beneficent marks of prosperity which distinguish the town are visible in the country. The people, well fed, well clothed, laborious and cheerful, live in roomy, clean, and airy houses. Their fields have the appearance of gardens; by which they are the more strikingly contrasted with the wild beauties of surrounding nature. Zurich is a charming place, situated at the side of a lake. Soni*^ public roads were made several years ago for the advantage as well as for the convenience of the inhabitants. Ziirich is wealthy by the wisdom of its (economy. It ex- pends great sums for the benefit of the country. Its buildings and public institutions are becoming the dignity of a free town. Patriotic simplicity ornauK-nts the regulated welfare of the happy burgher. In theory, the government of the town is that which the ancients called aristocratic, but which the moderns continually confound with democracy. The burghers have equal rights, and the olllcers of administration are chosen by their fellow citizens from among such as are supposed to be most capable. The govern- ment of the canton is an oligarchy, which the moderns unjustly call aristocracy, for tho coun- try people are excluded from all share in tbi; ad- ministration. The mur.icipality consists of thir- teen companies, one only of which is noblo. Twelve men are chosen from each company, and constitute the great council; these again choose E. of Zurich, and tliirty.nine £. of Basil. the '1^ in.:K, and oie spoon. Change of place, privation, and the sociality that arise; from the necessity of mutnally aiding each other, lidi iuul with, their neighbours in the cantod | have frequently, before the time of probati(>a Sns. It is distinguished from the other democratic cantons by having a town; for the inhabitants of the others, from their love of r<*eedom, and after the manner of the ancient Germans, do not choose to live in towns surrounded by walls. The people of Schwcitz, Uri, Unterwald, Glaris, and Appen- zel, have no towns. The administration of public affairs, in the canton of Zug, is partial. There is a general assembly of the town; and likewise the individual feneral assembly of the three villages, Baar, Igeri, and Mentzing. In these four gei^eral as- semblies, which are democratic, all foreign affairs, of war, peace, &nd alliance, are deter- mined. Those resolutions in which the villages are agreed are Utiewise binding to the town; but should the assemblies divide, two and two, tLe opinion in uivour of which the town declares prc^iils. The Ammann, who is not here, as in the other small cantons, called Landammann, ia chosen in the town; not by the assembly, but by forty counsellors. To this council the town sends thirteen deputies, and each of the three villages nine. It n a standing rule, that the Amman must be a native of the town, or of one of the villages. If of the town, he holds his office three years; if frotu a village, only two years. The councri of forty likewise appoint the high bailiffs, who govern those viiiagei that have ;io share in * It must be obterTetl, thut Count Stolbcrg makes nie of tlie (serman moc'e of measurement. A German mile is from cix to eight Englisii miles. f lb the ancMSt and graeraUy rwcWed phr4seelogy of 2 . . the public administration of affairs. Ti, jects of the state, except some small taxes Vt high bailiff, pay only the church tythcg " The people of Zug are held to be ihe mojt ,« less of Switzerland. Their genera! assembr are often tempestuous, though seldom sta with the blood of their citizens. Tbe tow'"' built under a mountain, and on the north" side of a lake; both bearing, the samena The lake is four leagues long, and one brol Its situation, between the Alps and oilier I mountains, is inexpressibly beautiful. The\ of the canton of Zug is very acid, while ihJ" Zurich is both mild and powerful. ' The canton of lAicerne is uncommonly prj ductivc. The fertility of the soil, the mil/J of the climate, the gentle breezes from the hilh and the frequent morning mists, maintain tbel ver.dure a great length of time. Every wbeJ are beheld fruitful valleys, clothed with Unm* herbage, and various flowers. The people of Zug and Lucerne are very hau some, both in face and form. Fieedoui an openness of manners characterize this mibluau beautiful people; who, among their mountaiu friendly, dignified, and unaffected, exeniiieilii virtue, which the Romans and Greeks siippoji, was only to be found in cities, and which tlie called urbanity, but which the moderns, haviu apishly imitated, have frc n courts callt courtesy. The unenslaved shepherds are fteei their advances, because they cannot siispecL where there is nothing to fear. They approv] with a grace; for, as they want for iiuthJ they ask for nothing. They love, and are beloiej by strangers. No town in Switzerland is so charmingly silii ated as Lucerne. Lovely hills, minphd win groves of pine and other trees, overlook ih town and the neighbouring shore of the lakeo the four Walstadte. The Reuss pours its watfL into the lake with its accustomed impctuusitJ It is navigable, and, by means of the Aar^ niainl tains a trade between Baden aiiii Switzerland; passing to the Rhine; and might open a morl valuable intercourse wi'.h Holland. From il situation, which is much more convcniftit tbaj Europe, thoto mountains wliich are eternaflj cuTond (ii snow are called tiie Alps; but not so in the dialed. J Switzerland, where every hMI has that appillatioa, onikj tops of which even ilocks aod httrdi majr fevd. maH taxes toij '»«fai assembL i seldom gtaj^ • ..'^'le town " "'e north-ca -the same nam and one broi *"d other hj. *•.»■"'• The«| 'fli while ibat ( ncommonly p, >''. the imldn, !s from the hil, ti nuiataiii thei '• Every wbei ^ with hixiiriji iiearevcrvhai e lliis iKibleaM Iheir niouiitiui] Pd, exercise till Greeks siippoj and which [L moderns, havii^ courts ralle herds are free i cannot siisp The)- a|)pro„ nt for nothit , aiiuarebelo,J charmingly s,._ I, ininplcd «iJ 8, overlook tH re of (he lake J 9 pours its vim led impcluusitj f the Aar, maiii Switzerland; ht open a m, and. From .. convenif !>t M rnaHj coiercd u ) in Ihu diilcclL tppcllalioQ, ODikj ' feed. - Mm >' ■ «' ,i ) I :*; fi 4 t iV V'''>fi^t '^' ii: ^: ! ■■ i»i fil .MB?*: / I I ilii.' :^i': 4 I'f 1:1 l,tofZu"cb redeniedGcr [erne m'g'" jffitzcrlaiio ; I JDS, Lucerne The town < [ocks called th ,e canton ot .long the !ak joint of wh'c (hich fell '"t ..stance from t ratch tower. Altorf is the (krc the ge iiindav in M-i jto ten confe ,f their burg These sixty c( jralic cantonS; , trto years j^b of wliicl Jo he one in iitt'ialter, 1 jd r peals l jar aiw^ peace I the deoiocr The people lembcrs of _ jurtsofjiisli' Km to the ge titizen is addc sscmbl) takes igs. Each yoiitl hip at fourte Jiabove three kmoiiiit of m Iralle) of Lini is inhiibi Ihrfe other knd Billen?., inlerwald- ttigano, and '•nsust, ho ^rc |i..iitical, no f Oi) the i)U( IITilliam Tell ; tl Imhor of i' fi lonoiir to '.lOd, nt Wiltian uf * GF.RMANY, SWITZERLAND, ITAT.Y, AND SfHIY. 413 .* Zurich, and from those advantages Avhicli I denied Geneva by its jealous neighbours, Lu- mifflit be the first commercial town of T'lzcriaiid; but, like most of the catholic can- w LiifC"'^ '* deficient in industf) The town of Schweitz lies between its *wo I u called the Hakon: it is the chief place of I canton of the same name. Some leagues J (he lake the land forms a cape, at the f j ( of which there was a prodigious rock, thicli fell into the lake, and where, at some I'iince from the land, it now stands erect like a i,atcli tower. Utorf is the chief place of the canton of Uri, jiffc the general assembly meet on the first iiiiidav in May. The canton of Uri is divided Into ten confederacies; from each of which six If their burghers are chosen, as counsellors. fliese sixty counsellors, as in the other demo- Iralic cantons, enjoy their office fof life. Once In two years two Landammannc are elected; I, Qf which has his year of administration. fo he one in office is added a deputy, called a Itilt'ialter, The gc-neral assembly enacts, alters, igd i°peals laWR, forms alliances, and makes fit Mil peace. This constitution is common to J the decnocratic cantonii. The people of Uri have two colleges*, the kiembersi of which are counsellors; and two nurts of justice, civil and criminal. An appeal lies to the general council; but, in this case, a litizen is added to each counsellor. The general isjcmbl^ takes no cognizance of legal proceed- Each youth of Uri enjoys the right of citizeu- lip at fourteen. The number of armed citizens above three thousand; but this is not the whole ount of men able to bear arms. The fruitful lalle^ of Linivcr, which lies beyond the Gothard, ind is inhabited by Italians, is subject to Uri. brre other Italian districts, Riviera, PoUenz, nd Bt'llen?., are subject to Uri, Schweitz, and Interwald as likewise are Meyntbal, Mendris, iigano, and Locarno, to the eleven other can- '' TKust, howcTer, be obserrcd, that theie institutions ^rc {I ijtical, not academical. ^ Oil the place where this chapel ftandj furmerly lived William Tell ; the true saviour of his country, the honoured kothor of i' freedom. In thankfulnesf to him, and in lonoiir tn ' half a league froiu Altorf in the valley of Schacher. Here livel William Tell; hut gratitude and reverence c'-anged his cottage into a chapel, where mass h soleinidy said, and from which the 'jeople go m procession. Like (he two other chipels of Tell, it is adorned with images, from holy writ and the history of Swit- zerland. Under each invigc is a verse. The following lines are over the entrance: Allhicr, auf dcm plalz dioser Kaprll, Hat Tormals gewohtit der VVilhelm Tell; Der trcuc retter dos Taterlands ; Der theurc wrheber des freieii stands! Dijme ziim. dank, Ciott abVard diese Kapellc gcseltet tier: Und sclbc dem schuiz bef jhlen an Saiict Wilhulm Kttchli, und Soba^itian -f . On each side likewise are the following: Sind wir gerccht, einig, und gnf, So steht die Freihcit sichcr gnug ^. Dankbar gedcnket an jenc zeit Da ihr seid worden gcfrcite Icut^. In the chapel, over the altar, the dial plate of a clock is painted, with a hand, which is signifi- cant of concord, pointing to the hour one; under which are these lines. Die freihnit wird sein von lz,ngcr daur Wcnn allzcit Eins zeigt dicse uhr ||. The constitution of Lucerne, relatively to the town^ is more an aristocracy, or rather aa I Let ut be just, nnitcd, and virtuous, &>id onr frcedota will 1)0 secure. ^ Thankfully, and for ever, remember the day that made you free. [| Frut'dom will endar« so loii£ a> it shall \ic on9 o'clock by this dial. I 'if :r olig- irct j, I' . 4U STOLBEUG'S TRAVELS THROUGH >, I oligarchy, ihan thiit of Zurich, where each biirgluM' hiu; an oqiial .share in the government. The great council in Lucerne consists of a hun- dred persons. From these tliirty-six men, who must be patricians, are cho.'sen for the little council. There is an appeal from the little council to Ihc collective council, The members of both councils hold (heir places for life; and it may be sai.I, from the practice of (illing up va- cancies, (hilt, in the little council, these places are in a certain manner hereditary. The chief magi.s(ra(es are the two Schultheisse> o»" mayors, one of whom always sits at the helm of the state. They are chosen for life, and one presides this year, another (he next. War, peace, alliance, and new taxes, cannot be incurred without the consent of the assembled citizens. The peasants are very happy : they pay nothing but tythes in kind, and half a florin annually from every head of a family to the high baililK The country people enjoy a free trade, and, in ♦his respect, are not, like those of Ziirich, de- pendent on the town. This is (he mo!«l powerful of (he ca(holic can- ton'^, and can bring twen(y (liousand armed men into the liild. The revenue t)f the state docs not con«i»t of above sevenfy-l'our thoii^aiHl florins; of w Inch there is an annual surplus, which is ein- plove'J for tlu' li'iMicral good. On t!io shore ot ihr hike of Senipach stands (he old to\^n of that naiue; u here, in J.'i8(), the Uiiu>ii>i batllf. of Si'oipacli w;is won, l)y three hiiiidred conlVderatcs, against Leopold duke of Austria, and (he flower of his army. Arnold von ^^ ink( hiied, of LnlcrwaUl, lieu- broke (he phalanx of the Austrian army; op[)osing himself to (heir spears, and, by .seizing as many a.s he lonld grasp, made an opening for his troops: thus willingly ch-voting himself to death, that he might secure the victory to his fellow warriors. henipacb, (hough dependent on Lucerne, en- jo\s privilege so great that it may well value it- self on its fnetlou). Iw ancient times it belonged to the counts of Lcn/burg, (hen to t!M)se of Ky- burg, and afterwards to the counts of Ilabsburg. In l.Jt'i.'J it allied itself with Zurich, Berne, Basle, Soleure, and St. trail. After the battle of Sempach it appertained to Lucerne. It has its own uj agist rates-', an cvtensive jurisdiction, and considerable privileges. From three of its citi/tiis, chosen hy (he (own itsidf, the council itkelf electa its Schui(h(iiss. The lake of Sempach is two leaguos U and half a league broad; where there is a ."^ siderable fishery, the revenue of wliid^"* collected by one of the council of Lucerne fnriiJ state. "i The canton of Berne is limited by the cant ' of Lucerne and Soleure. A good soil, \m\^J!i well directed, and freedom enjoyed, under 3 government wise, mild, and limited by fiJ laws, rai-'2 the people of Berne toadegreeol visible prosperity'. An acre of meadow land frequently sold for a thcfusand rix dollars The houses of the country people of Berne i remarkably roomy and neat; and thev them] selves are well clothed, well fed, cheerful, anj strong. Their cattle are large, in good conl dition, and sleek. The men are weil t'ormeJ indeed the beauty of both sexes is remarkable, 1 The town of Thun is built at the end of (J lake of Thui», at the mouth of the Aar: itssituJ ation is charming. The lake of Thuii isabiiui five leagues long and one broad: in muiiv plan the depth of its w.iter is a hundred and tweiitil filhoins. On the left shore are thrcfl cascadd springing from rocks; viz. the Stanipfbaiii, Junglraunbrunnen, and the Bealusljach. Tin last flows out of a cavern on the IJcatusbcra The Rreitklavenberg on the right, and the Ilatl I derbcrg on l!ie left, limit the lake, ati'ordinJ i only a passage (o the Aar, which, a lea;,;;uo fioJ i this place. Hows out of the lake of BrieiiJ coursing through both the lakes. Tlio Grcal Eiger, the Little iMger, and the Jungtraii rid covered with everlasting snow, and higher stij the Schreckenhorn, whose rocky anmmit ttppeari continually covered, during (he summer, witlj two shining snow balls. This summit is alwavi inaccessible, and, in the fame of its heip;lit; cuaJ tends with Mont Blanc in Savoy. The shotci of the lake are covered wi(li numerous \illagf! On the right side the southern moun(aiiH ruej over (he little village of LK'issingen; find, lor I space of six weeks in winter, conceal it fronitli^ sun. The lake of Brienz is three leagues long, not ([uitc ko broad as (he lake of Tluni. VrrJ dan( mountains surround it on ail sides, someol which gendy rise, till at a certain height llicj become steep; some set their bold rocky feet if the green waves, while the summits of others eiJ lubit immense cliil'v. llcre.taru many line waloti fallsj the luoat bcautiuil of which is the (iiw| b:iiii mwF CI' R MANY, SWITZERLAND, ITALY, AND SICILY. 415. li It passes from a clifl" ill! he rock atiiiirig r?^' nnrl nftcr twelve dillereiit desteiits, rushes LlhcIi'I"?- ' r 1 • 1 riiiienz is a large \illage, the houses of which. If (lieffciieral manner of the uplands in the laiiloii of IJerne, arc bnilt wrth the trunks of stripi''-*! of their buck and laid onu above B otlier, and rooftd with shingl.'s. Thrsc roofs almost flat, iind others of tiunn, like the cabins "tlio Alps; stones are laid to prevent the wind iinfiirryiiig them away. The vilhigo church liiiiltoii a small separate rock. 11 is tlirco JcagiiCH from Brienz to the valley of »5|j- which is sometimes called Ohc>' Hasli, Itnper Hash,) though there is no Untcr Hasli, iLnwer Hasli,) in existence. Here are several Lterf'alls. In this valley stands the village of llevriiigen, shut in by high rocks, and secluded, f it were, from the whole world. There are Ivc oiitlpfs or roads between these rocks : one Lliii"" t" Hrienz, another over the mountain Stiiiiina,' to Lucerne, a third over the Engelberg )l'iilmvald, a fourth over tlie Grinselberg to k'alais, and the fifth over the Schedeck to kfindplwald. According to tradition the iuha- lilaiits of the valley of Hasli, which is about Lfii leagues in leugth, came originally from ittcden. Ill 1^^^ the inhabitants shook oil" the lokeof John baron of Weisscnburg, and, with Igmiit of great privileges, submitted to the can- |f,ii(if n;'riie. They appoint their own council, lit' miiuibfrs of which ai ; called Gerichtasse; Inil from one of three burg ers, chosen by them- ilvts, the government of iV'rne appoints their Lndaminann; who exorcises the power of a high \iM, and remains in ollice six years, but is iliijcd to give an iiccoiMit of his administration mc'A vcar to the higli baililf of Interhiken. lUpvrinffVn is the chief place of the valley. Hero Ire 'ceii several water- falls, r/i. the Alpbadi, the liirflmch, the iVluhlenl)atli, and the Rcithcu- laHi*. A- the traveller approaches the upper region I'the moimtain the pines begin to be few. i'hc Hmrmous rocks extend to the \\ (!ltorhorn, at the • The Ri'ichenbacli IS Olio of (lie most boiiitifnl \viitor- kllsiii Swit/.erlaiul A lofty tiirrcnt (iimblfs tliroiu;li (Ik; Jiicky clilfs ill bro;iJ sluH'ts, iiiwl with a tlumdiTiiiir din, fliiii! the green inountaiii, far and widu, is covered witU foot of which stands the Rosenlauer glacier. The last height is very diiricnlt to climb; and the road downward to the Grindelwald is steep and not without danger; thrre being sometimes pre- cipices, sometimes falling beds of tlat slate, and at others short slippery grass. The lowest glacier stands half a league from the parsonage house, but the dilficulty of ascend- ing it is great, it being through a defile almost impassable, from clifts, flints, and snow. llcrtJ " Jacobi," says Coimt Stolberg, " discovered a spacious hall of ice, which I entered with him; but the clergyman" (of the place, who accom- panied the count as his guide) " eritieat(!d us to leave it, and persisted in departing frcro8, Arberg, Nidau, and Ncufchatel. The allies, between twenty and thirty Ihousani strung, tucuutped before the 2 little town of Laupen, which, with itsdistriiJ Berne had purchased, and had first erected baiiiwic. Rudolphus of Erlach, who had servpi the counts of Nidau, hut had deserted tlicmt fight for his country, was the leader of the Iini3 army of Berne; which, with the aid sent U Schweitz, Uri, Unterwalden, and other alliesi amounted only to five thousand men. Ty proud counts and their arrogant cavaliers despise] the feeble foe; but the prodigious spears, wieiy by the nervous arms of the small army, unhorm tlic mailed knights The allies agiiinst Berui left three thousand dead on the field, A \\t% victory gained over Freiburg, by which it wai in imminent danger, increased the courage ol Berne. Lucerne and Zurich had entered iolo alliance with the three first cantons, and tin allies having taken Glaris and Zug by force arms, communicated to their inhabitants the fu| rights of liberty; when, in 13.53, Berne was ri ceived into the confederacy, where it thenassumi the second rank, which it has ever since num. tained. While the confederates were acquiring m fame against Austria, at Sempach and Naifeli the people of Berne attacked the counts Kyburg, who sided with Austria, inTlimm Burgdorf; both of which places were '.rded them at the peace. They likewise ronqiieti the counties of Nidau and Buren. By varioi means, partly by the bestowing the ripjhts ol citizenship, and |)artly by the conquest offeudi knights and barons, tliey possessed theniselveiol the upland valleys of the Alps. These iiewcoi quests greatly increased the power of Berne. When Frederic duke of Austria fell under thi bann of the empire for supporting Pope Johi XXIII. against Martin IV. the people of Bcmj instigated by the emperor Sigisunind, attacki Aargau. and obliged Zosingen, Aaruu, Bruj and Lensburg, with their appendages to m\ render; and these now form one of the most li tile districts in their possessioa. They aud tlifi allid nrw i; ' :« 'i "H I .■ !v W • ■it, < r 1 i\ M ei-: 111 !:'l i •'.. ! 'f , 1 '■ , : '. ■ V . i ■t.Vj:' tk :.. 'HH r l!| '■^TOKPHBMP^^-^W,-,..,-. ^^ftiftm^c. % <^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // 1.0 1.1 I^|2j8 ||2.5 1^ 111112.0 2.2 I1J& 1-25 |i.4 1.6 ■« 6" ► "<-V^ 7 HiotograpMc Sdences CorporaJion 23 Wir T MAIN STRUT .»'faSTIR,N.Y. 14SS0 (716)872-4S03 ^ ■«v' w GERltlAWr, SWrrZCRLATJD, ITALV, AND SICILY. 417 I iiiH likewise conquered the country of Baden: I nd Skisiu""^' glt^ twenty-nine years of jige, dating eight days after baptism. Hence, in I families who hope their descendants may be coun- jiellors, they have the males christened imme- Idiately after birth. Elections generally happen lenceia nine or ten years; and any young man l«bo b at this tio>e a minor, if it be but for a [fev days, must wait till the neit election. £vcry hurghftc of Becne ha» the right of being elected to the highest dignities { but few have the hope; for the little council, which consists of twenty-seven members, and the sixteen, who are annually chosen from the great council, pro- pose the members of this grent council ; so that they coDti:^ually circulate among the powerful families. In the collective great council, of which the small council is a committee, all power centres, but in different bodies. The executiva power is entrusted to the little council, the legis- lative to the great. The little council assemble| every day, Sunday excepted : it first examine* every matter, which is afterwards laid before th^ great council. All current affairs are in its dis- posal; as likewise are most of the church bene- fices, and the inferior of the lay employments» It pronounces sentence in crimtiial causes* ex- cept over the burghers of Berne. The members of the little council are elected in a very complex manner. On the death of any one member, the remaining twenty-six asr semble : twenty^six small balls are put in a box> three of which are gold. The members each draw a ball. Those who draw the three goldeo balls nominate three electors from their own body. Seven other electors are chosen by th^ great council. These ten electors nominate % number of candidates, not more than ten, nor less than six. The collective council then giva their votes. Those who have most votes in their favour draw four balls, two of which are gold> and two are silver: one of those who navf drawn the golden balls is elected, by the plurality of TOtes of the collective council. The little council consists of two advoyers, two treasurers, two bannerets, seven counsellors, and two secret counsellors. The two advoyers pre- side in the collective council and in the little council. They are elected by the collective council. They hold their office for life; thougb the collective council has the right to remove them. The reigning advoyer has the seal of th« republic lying before him: he never gives hia vote till it is demanded ; nor has be any vote, till* tho numbers being equal, it becomes necessary for him to decide. The two treasurers and the four bannerets constitute a college, or committee, of finance. The bannerets are only a year in office ; the treasurers may be continued for six years. Each banneret is likewise a high bailiff. The ba'''wics are divided int» four claasei* accordiqg *m i H 1 t^ in 'I II 'Hit 1., I't. 418 "STOLBERG'S TRAVELS THROUGH I according to (licir Importance and revenues, and are frequently very lucrative. No man can be high bailiff of the first class above once, twice of the second class, and three times of the third and fourth, and the latter must be at intervals. The high bailiff continues in office six years, and each annually lays his accounts before the com- mittee of finance. Their power is very great. To them is the police, the execution of the or- ders of the council, the disposal of the public fioney, and the corn granary, the appeals from the small courts, and the power of pronouncing sentence, when complainants bring their causes before them, entrusted. The revenues of the state are not large ; yet sufficient for a republic, the rulers of which have most of them no salary, and tlie rest very little, and.which maintains no standing army. These revenues consist in some domains, the tythes, a certain small ground rent, the sixth part of the allodial fines of the fiefs in the Pays de Vaud, the tenths of those inheritances in this same country which do not descend to the next heir, certain trifling tolls, and the monopoly of salt. Of this monopoly no one complains; for it is sold cheaper by the government than it could be afforded by the trader. The people are regularly trained to arms, and annually mustered. They are divided into twenty-one regiments of foot, each two thousand strong, and four companies of jairf^vs, or light horse, and eighteen of dragoons. JJeside these the persons who hold estates that confer titles of nobility raise several companies of horse. No soldier, whether of horse or foot, dare marry till he has first provided himself with uniform, arms, and accoutrements. This is the dress of the bridegroom. The dragoon must provide him- self with a horse; but this is no great difficulty, since, as a farmer, he must keep many horses. . The arsenal is well stored : it contains above a thousand cannon, many mortars, muskets for sixty thousand men, and sufficient arms for the cavalry. There are f luce conipaniesof cannoneers, and one of bombardiers for the artillery. The arsenal is likewise irmnrkable, to a traveller, for its ancient Swiss and llurgundian armour. The prodigious two handed swords and long spears are dreadfully cumbrous. The banners of Jlur- .» gundv, and the ropes with which the Swiss were to have. been bound, are preserved and exhibited in a truly republicati spirit. I'here is also tli wooden image of William Tell in the act o*f shooting the apple from the head of his gJ The building, however, is a bad one, and doe not correspond to the greatness of its deBlinatio * The hospitals are both of them beautiful: on \ is called the Insel, (or Island,) because of ii! detached situation. The sick of all nations are here carefully nursed and dressed ia room apartments ; from which there is a full prospect I of the great chain of distant glaciers. EqualU remarkable is the other great hoipital, which much rather resembles the palace of a prince ! than the abode of the poor: yet not the least convenience is sacrificed to magnificence. The front gives the impression of greatness, whicU idea is much increased by the motto, " Chuisto IN pvupEainus:" i. e. "To Christ in the Poor,' The court is a verdant lawn, planted with trees I and numerous flowers, and a fountain is in the J centre. Fifty persons, some of them poor, others 1 sick, are here suppoi ted: beside which others] are lodged and maintained at a small cxpence. There is likewise in this hospital a separate part) for poor travellers: in the evening they are m, plied with bread, wine, and a bed; in tbj morning they receive a breakfast, which A usually bread and wine, and a small supply o(| money. In what is called the Orphan House, which jjl not intended for orphans only, but for otherl children of the burghers, (otty boys, for tbjj small annual sum of thirty rix ;dollars, are fed,} clothed, and instructed in the christian rcligionj reading, writing,, arithmetic, German, French,! Latin, Greek, history, geography, mathematics,! singing, and drawing. The Cathedral is one of the finest and largest! I have seen, says Count Stolberg. Before it is a] spacious walk of trees on a bold and elevated] terrace, which commands ' a prospect of tLj| whole lown, of the windings of the Aar, especially of the great chain of glaciers. The I money for building this cathedral, like as for building St. Peter's tit Rome, was colirctedj through all Europe: for which purpose the] po]pe granted his indulgences. . The Granaries are well built, and are an Of" nament to the to vn; and the use to which thel government puts them is deserving of-praiie:| ^orn is collected here ia great quantities, not, as I ' ' ill GERMANY, SWITZERLAND, ITALY, AND SICILY. 4*3 I i0 oblige the baker to purchase there, ' ( nre'veiit the price being excessive. Berne »"«' furnished neighbouring stales with corn, ij uie few Vc of (he kings of Burgundy ciini it for their residence: it next fell under tin jurisdiction of the kings of France. Cliarlej magne granted the town considerable privilege It afterwards became a part of the kingdom o AdcsJ l>ut one V. itli y[ S- '>>"''*, a'J round upoiMvlii] atthreehorsojj t'ti abreast to (In .In the times, "'"i-LausJ ;e» built ioHcfj '*'• Lausanne J ierthejurisdieJ "•••' boon evteoj] P*^'-'|e- LaiisaJ ive bauiioroli, (f ''ty, and til, gj ic town holds j of justice. tJ 'cd nothing for J fiign'y, ofaniiij ^•at best of riglij catliedral is veil the gothic stvi *'alk planted v'i •eautiful prosjJ ital is lari^c agj be bcncvolpiiceii Uie necessities h is almost tciUDl tiun and Exim.\ i afterwards moi by tiic nortlierf Burgundy cliii : fell under llii France. Cliarlel ;rable privilege) the kingdom A[lcs :: I * :i « Mm: ■' i f- 1 PM .' !»•■ '■'^'^f^miimmfitmm boioted '< hroduced GEUMANY/ SWITZERLAND, ITAT.V, AND SKII.Y. 4iII le, and after that of Burgundy. The Bur- dian race having become extinct, Geneva M incorporated, by Conrad II. with the Ger- Tn empire, in 1033. Its bishops gradually |P g more potent, and accumulated their liras which its ambitious counts disputed with ' The people at length acknovrledged the shops as their sovereigns; but the people pos- Ised considerable privileges. They annually L-jeB«vndic, and a treasurer; and these ap- Linfcd a' council. The people were consulted the imposing of taxes and in forming alliances. Neither the bishop nor the magistrate could un- jpftake any thing of importance unless they were usenibled; and each, at coming into offices, nade a solemn oath before the syndic, by which 'promised to leave the privileges of the city [nlimiDishcd. About the middle of the fifteenth ttntiiry the number of the council, under which Ihe presidency of the syndics held the administra- lion of public affairs, was fixed at five and twen" |( and a superior council of fifty waa instituted, \hich, in certain cases, was to be associated irith the former. This was the origin of the ,tat council of two hundred. In 1536 Berne l^d Freiburg renewed their alliance ^ which had .tn interrupted ) with Geneva; and from this Kfiod it may be truly estimated to have become ifree state. In 1.535 the council of two hun- ired admitted and countenanced the doctrines of lie reformers, and Freiburg renounced its al- tancc. The following year Calvin came to Ge- leva. This man, whose thoughts were as ardent itbey were profound, communicated order both ) church and state. By his advice, in i 5i)9, k academy was founded ; a seminary which has Produced great men in every science. After mt and violent contentions for many years, tieneva was acknowledged as a free and inde- «Rdent republic by the king of Sardinia, in |T54, and the boundaries of Geneva and Savoy Jrere accurately deterniiued. The state now paid Iff the remainder of its debts, and it appeared to lave attained that chief uf blessings, peace at lome and with all the world. The fire, hnw- jrer, though smothered was niit extinguished. partial enjoyment of the blest>in8:s that result \om freedom occasioned, as usual, Jissatisfac- lon, in a city in which there was an equality of ghts, but a great inequality of wealth. In 762 the democrat* excited new commotiona, in consequence of the docii^iun of the council, on two of the works of J«an Jacques Roussoan, viz. his " Emiliiis" and his "Social Contract." These works were both forbidden, the former from religious^ the latter from political motives. The council knew that Rousseau had fled from Paris to'Genoa by reason of the trouble he wasi likely to receive on account of these writings. From Geneva he went to the moimtuins of Neufchatel, and held a correspondence with hvs friends in Geneva; who presented a remonstrance against the decision. They demanded that the alfair should bcexauiined b}' the council general; that is, by the assembled citizens. The council, on the contrary, maintained that their demand was unconstitutional. The partisans of Rousseau were called Remonstrants; the friends of the council, the Negatives. M. Trouchin defended the Negatives m " Lettres ecrites de la Cam- pagne;" which was answered by Rousseau in his " Lettres ecrites de la Montague;" by which the J arty of the Remonstrants was still more inflamed, n 1765 the citizens rejected all the counsellors who were named as candidates for the election of new syndics, and the election did not take place. The magistrates demanded aid of their three allies, France, Berne, and Zurich. These powers sent plenipotentiaries, and twenty-four commissioners were choseii*' from among the citizens. They decided in favour of the council ; which so provoked the citizens, that, in a general council, they rejected the decision of the media- tors. The court of France sent troops on the confines of Geneva, and prohibited all trade with the Remonstrants. The ambassadors from the interfering states published a proclamation for the restoration of order, under the title of Pro- nounce. To this the citizens paid little attention, held the menaces of the foreign plenipotentiaries in contempt, defied their magistrates, and obliged the government so to compromise -these disputes as to give the power into the hands of the popular party. This compromise was effected on the 1 1th of March, 1168. Some years afterwards open wai broke out between the Remonstrants and the Negatives ; the Remonstrants twice flew to arms, and in the spring of 1783 several of the members of both councils who were suspected by them were imprisoned; and, aided by the natives, they seized on the gates and the ram parts. Whike in this state of commotion, France, Sardinia, and Berne, mi' mi \'':-i til '-#,«. ■ mm m : \m \H I'il STOLBERG'S THAVFXS THROUGH sat. Benin, «cnt their troopi into the city, and a new ttinciliatory plan was devised, which was ac- cepted by the little council, the rroat council, and the council cjencral, on the 4th of Novem- ber, that year, which promised per|aaiiciicy, by the guarantee of the interfering^ ■owors. in 178'J fresh disturbances broke oui; tic govern- ment called in the regiment from its^arracks, btil the burghers found means to avoid the siddiers, and still continued their tumults: the nrgiment, after it had been t\ven(.y-six hours un- der armn in the middle of winter, abandoned its posts; und the burgherK having now beto'me masters, a new convention was made, by which the people regained the right of electiitn, and obtained the establishment of a city militia The trae constitution was thus once more restored, and the burghors would have remained tranquil had not thuir imaginations been dis- turbed by the French revolution. Some of the burghers ardently desired that Geneva might be- come incorporated with France. The inhabi- tants were excited to arms, and were joined by the inhabitants of the country of Gex, which be- longs to France. The insurgents had almost gained possession of the city, but were however prevented. * '» ""commodation once more took place, by thv .rmation and extension of the privileges of tli uople. The govcrnnient of (ieneva, being now firmly .•settled to the mutual satisfaction of all parties, exercises its functions \\ith ji««tice and im- partiality, for the benetit of the republic: and their civil code is laconic, unambiguous, and eimple; and where this code is insulficient the Roman code is consulted. This little state, which probably contains more knowledge and wealth than comparatively any other in Europe,- is less troubled with lawsuits than any other. At present they only enumerate five aJvocii, who really practise, and seven attorneys. \v^ ever would have a perfect idea of ths justice J ministered in this city must read the excell d work entitled, " Etat civil de Geneve, par F ' ^ois Andre Navillc, Citoyen dc Geneve." '"\ The manners of the people here are llkcvfJ comparatively pure. The young men arc we] informed: the education of the women is no I carefully attended to ; and they are as ceiebra'ai f(»r their real merit as for their f'harn»ii)!;mjiin»J At Geneva it is almost become proverbial t)8al " Happy the children who have a woman to if struct thera." There is an excellent law of the republic wliid deserves notice. If a son does not pay ^1 father's debts, which the law cannot oblige hi] to do, he is excluded from the enjoyment o every public olfice. The same prohibition ea tends to all who have not paid their own deblil The corn chamber is an useful institution. U duty is to take care that a certain quantity of corl shall be always in the granary; audthestateU the exclusive privilege of selling corn to tU bakers: it sometimes gains; but it ismuchofteDd a considerable loser. This regulation is necesjarl in a city whoso small territory is insulficient fj its own coiisuniption; and those who imagj™ that this privilege ever dc,u;en('rate8 into aiiionoi poly, in Geneva, are neilher aeqiiainted will the people nor tlirir govcnnneut. 1 The number of tlie people, according to t|J accounts delivered jn, anno HOO, was twentfl six thousand one hundred and forty within th walls, and nine thousand without; amouiitingii all to thirty-five thousand one hundred andforti souls. The whole territory of the republic com sistg of three square leagues and seven hundra ells, aliowiog twenty leagues to a degree. '-. ""- -''■'''- "■••■■ SECTION IX. - Savotf and SnvoiKU'ds — Chnmberri/ — Hannibal — Lanehurg — Passage over Mount Cenia — St. A% brosio — RivoU— Plains of Lombardy — Assassinations — Turin, . its Origin, Situation, Plat Streets, Palaces, Buildings, Arsenal, and Sluices-^La Superba — Alessandria. ABOUT a quarter of a league from Geneva the duchy of Savoy begins. The country is fruitful, and surrounded by mountains at some distance; yet the valley soon becomes narroi and appearances change. The Savoyards. >vhoij Count Stolberg saw at a fair in a valley at Frang 2 wen GFRMANV, fiWITZF-RLANn, ITAf.Y, AND SK'ILV. 4'2i I poof but joyous, afml did not belie their arader; lo"0 nilrtli, yet not riototis, rang I y-j, the valley, and bri^tened in th«ir faces. «ver» «"t\]a, and the Vene- tian territory, as far as tlie Adriatic. The lands are excellent, and mulberry trees are frequently planted among the corn. At some distance high hills arc seen, which are clothed with vineyards and fruit trees. The Piedmontese ere justly accused of a pro- pensity to drunkenness, and of being scandalously rapacious, which induces them to commit mur- der in cold blood. It is strange, that, in so ac- tive a government as that of Sardinia, no decisive regulations should have taken place, sufKoient to redress this evil. How Conspicuous does this make the character of nations ! Among the inha- bitants of Savov, under the same government, the traveller is in perfect security ; while on the plains of Piedmont, and in the very neighbour- hood of the metropolis, a man may be murdered at an inn, or on the high road. Turin is one of the most beautiful and most ancient cities of Europe. From history we learn that Tanrasia was the chief city of the Ligurians, and the Brst which Hannibal look after his passage over the Alps, Some centuries afterward, under the reigns of the Ctesars, the Romans sent «i colony to this place; and gave it the name of Augusta Taurinorum. The situation of Turiu is uncommonly beautiful, and, as most travellers have remarked, very much resembles that of Dresden. Immediately facing the gate, whi<^ takes its name from the Po, there is a bridge over the river, that neither corresponds with the beauty of the vity ilor the>dignity of the stream. The Po Street,' which leiids to this gate, is hand- somely built. Th,e plan pf Turin is a noble one. Tbc streets are in r)gbt lines, and thegajtesAi^d the houaes are built .ia a good style »nd tastr; TiP though I 4 tr I l::' i& •j f :! i I ! !tl. ■;■■» i i% j :m 42i STOLBF.RG'8 TRAVELS THROUGH "»:i though the street*, in proportion to the height I them, thny being destructive md easy of ear of tliv houses, the Po Street and the New Street and ure therefore well adapted for the ba i excrpted, are not sufiicieotl)' spacious. In the **— —••■•'■ *' — ' *--- '"' Po street there are handsome and h^ftv arcades are on both sides of the way. The outside of the castle is not very promising : but the apartments are very magnificent. In the picture gallery are several tine pa^ntiugs. Between the castle and the principal church the chapel of the holy handkerchief is built; which relic the city believes itself to possess. The chapel is entirely of black marble. The capitals of the pillars, and the large silver candlesticks, by which alone the building is lighted, arc gilded, l^he entrance inspires holjr solenmitv. The sup- posed genuine handkerchief, which is consider- ' ably large, is only publicly exhibited at the be- ginning of a new reign, at the marriage of the prince royal, or when any person of great rank arrives at Turin and makes the request. Here is a ihalire of extraordinary value, set with jewels, eaid to be the richest in Italy : it is made in a good taste. The celebrated palace of the duke of Savoy, the fa9ade of which is built with pillars of the Corinthian order, stands near the castle, than which it is a much finer building. Next to this the palace of the prince of Carignan is the hand- somest. , The arsenal, which is still to be enlarged, is a fine and uncommonly capacious building, in- cluding five courts. The halls are supported by heavy pillars, similar to those of gothic churches. Hound each of these pillars a thousand musquets are ranged in an ornamental manner. Pyramids are erected between them, on which horse pistols are piled with great elegance. In the midst of . these halls is one of a large size and circular form, the walls and pillars of which are orna- mented with trophies of ancient armour, ranged in military pomp. The arsenal contains arms for ^a hundred and twenty thousand men. The . cvliodrical ramrod for artillery is not yet in use: t^e ramrods here are all of iron. In an adjoining chamber are a considerable number of small light arms, which from being very wide at the muzzio are called tromboni, as resembling a trumpet. Tlie king has forbidden the use of * Tho chaich was built in 1706, in consequence of a vow to the holy virgin, made by Victor Amadeus II. when the French was besieging Turin, to induco her to assist him for which reason they have been all bouei,. j They are capable of being loaded eiihcr j balls or with -»-»-"«— -«•-* - •■ *" or witii cartridge shot, with whiii, scattering, they make dreadful havoc. Ti,.' a cannon founderv, and likewise a chcmicar burator^, annexed to the arsenal. On the banks of the river, near the city, jhu beautiful royal castle of Valentin, w|,ifi, ,3 king granted to his chamberlain in chici; as| summer residence. The garden annexed to it I applied to botanical studies. Sluices are carried through the streets cleanse them, by means of a canal, which rccciJ its waters from the Dora. These sluices flo] through drains into the Po, in consequence i wliich ihe city is always clean. There ure nid large squares here, among which that of! Charles is the most spacious and beautiful; buildings are handsome, and it has extemiil arcades on each side. Two short leagues from Turin is the heigiitJ which the diurch called La Supcrba is buiL and is one of the most beautiful places of Iti)i This height overlooks the plains of all Piedmoi^ as far as the utmost limits of the Alps aiidAp nines*. There is a lar^ building annexed to the cbun which is inhabited by twelve cinonN, who i provided for as a part of the establishment. whole has a striking appearance of grandeun magnificence. The church is in the formofl Grecian cross, that is, a cross the length breadth of which are equal. It is omamentt with a cupola, on the sides of which two : towers are built. The royal sepulchral vault I under the ehurch; in which the coffins aregru and richly ornamented. A singular custoinl here established, that the king who died lastiil be buried in one particular grave, outofwhij his predecessor is to be removed. The can have an excellent library, which is particulii rich in the writings of the fathers, and is v^ provided with classics and the works of modi authors. Ttom the top of the cupola is one of the sublimest spectacles in nature: t| plains of Piedmont, the meanders of the Po, i to raise the siege. This help was sent him in the pcnin| the great Eugene, who led the imperial forces, andinll of the prioce of Anhalt, who commanded the Prussia!. vhol GERMANY, SWITZERLAND, ITALY, AND SICILY. 425 AIp«, L |j,l,iningcirc> of the snow-covered U ilUr these a rang 3 of the Apennines. f? Veneria is tUe principal country palace of ii kiniTi >"^'' si^uB^^** about two leagues and U|lf from Turin. The royal family always re- un here fifty days in the spring of the year. church is beautiful: the palace contains some apartments, and the garden is very "f but entirely laid out in the French taste. 'urin is very populous: the streets are full of 'nie, thougn the court, the greatest part of iiobility, and many students and professional to the number of three thousand, are ab- sent. In winter the number of inhabitants is estimated at nearly one hundred thousand. Alessandria is a toler ible town in the Piedmont district of Milan, which in 1703 was ceded at the treaty of Turin by Austria to Savoy. It was built toward the end of the twelfth century by the citizens of Milan, Cremona, and Plucenza, as a place of refuge against the emperor Frederic I. The town Alessandria in 1178 was named after Pope Alexander III. The town has a consider- able trade, particular in cotton, silk, and th» merchandize of the cast. SECTION X. viftorical Sketches of Genoa — Struggletifor Freedom— Ji « Contentions — Territories — Manufactured \^?of\dation — Palaces — Hospital — Pavia, its City and Unirersitij — Citt/ of Milan, Cathedral, -Hospital- I Population and Institutions of Bologna — Particulars cuucerning the People and City of Bologna. l^m&rMiVjn Library — Lodi — Placenza — Parma — heggio and Modena — The Bucket — Bdlogna-— MlC cii.V of Genoa is of very high antiquity, sod of very doubtful origin. The Italians I it Genova. It was early allied to the Ro- ins, and, in the second Punic war, was de- Iroyed by Mago, the brother of Hannibal. An jcient inscription proves that it afterwards be- Licea Roman municipal city. When the Ostru- loths overran the Roman empire this city fell ider their jurisdiction, but was again recovered fBelisarius, It was afterward laid waste by • Saracens and Lombards. Charlemagne was • last who took it; and he restored it to it» an- itnt freedom. His son Pepin gave it to Adhe- a Frenchman, with the title of Count; but 'Genoese shook of the yoke in the eleventh otury, and appointed consuls. Even in these iineg the city was surrounded with walls, and vided into six parts, with a tribune over each bvision. Quarrels soon took place among the ptizens, who chose a foreigner to be their po- sta, or chief magistrate; but, weary of this key appointed a governor, and afterward elected J Doge from the nobility and the citizens. They [ere induced, however, by new disturbances, to ut themselves under the power of Charles VI. If France. In 1409 they broke the chains with Ihich they had fettered themselves, put the freocb garrison to death, and subjected them- selves to the marquis of Montferrat. In four years afterward they recovered their liberties, and once more elected a doge: but they soon be- came tributary to the duke of Milan; and ugain^ in 14.36 regained their freedom. In 14.58 they once more subjected theniselves to the French; and in three years the people asserted their forrnec rights, and re-instituted the doge. They once more offered theniselves to Lewis XI. who re- plied that, if Genoa were his he would consiga it to the devil. After this the city was torn by intestine divisions, by the factions of the Guelphs and Ghibelins, and by the contests between the families of 'Adorno and Fregoso. The emperor of Germany, the kings of France, and the dukes of Milan governed it in turns; and it was on the brink of destruction when the naval hero, An- drea Doria, one of the greatest men Italy ever produced, snatched it from the arms of France, and once more restored it to its freedom. It was^ in his own choice to have been the monarch of his country; but he nobly declined the sovereign rule. In 1684 it was bombarded by the French> and obtained peace only on the most humiliating conditic ns. It Wis our intention to have followed Count Stolberg in his excellent account of the con- stitution of Genoa; but as that republic no Longer in .1 ,: ' 'S' '£* vJt'l i.'i \m 425 STOI.BEnC'S TnAVELS TMHOUCH longer exists, it being united with ih6 French empire, as nicntioned in the note, we forbear to touch upon if, since it has undergone such alter- ations as to the wis''otn of Napoleon seemed meet*. The territories of Genoa contain iiincty Ger- man square miles, alh)\ving fifteen miles to a de- gree; and its population is estimated at four hun- dred thousand souls. The country is mountain- ous and sterile, the people laborious and hardy. Their grain is insudiciciit for their own con- sumption; but this is amply compensated by their vineyards and their orchards of excellent fruits. The silk manufactory is so extensive that the raw silk produced in their own territory is an insufficient supply: they are therefore obliged to purchase more from the Two Sicilies and Pied- mont. The oil produced at the presses of St. Remo is acknowledged to be the best in Europe. From the multitude and beauty of its palaces the city deserves, and has obtained the epithet of I.a Superhn, or the magnificent. The streets, which are kept clean with remarkable care, are many of them uncommonly narrow; and as the town is exceedingly populous, the throng is very inconvenient. The houses are from five to six stories high, and some of them even seven and eight. The palaces are forty-four in number, hmst of which are built in a noble style. Its situation, on the shore of the Mediterranean, is certainly one of the grandest and nu)st beautiful in the world. The number of its inhabitahtsis supposed to be eighty thousand. The red palace of Brignole is a fine building, well furnished with excellent paintings; among which Christ driving the Money Changers and and Sellers of Doves out of the Temple, and Christ with the Tribute Money, are beautiful ♦ Under pretrnce that the Genoese were incapable of protecting (hcmselvos from the dcprHatiuiis of the Uiirbary powers, a treaty was concluded Oclober 'iOth, 1804, be- tween the republic of Genoa and Salicetti, the French ii'.'nister, upon the part and in the name of his government. By this treaty Napoleon acquired possession of all the naval means and resources of the republic. The arrangements, however, made by the treaty were of a temporary nature; for sereral circumstances seem to point out thatNapoleon had determined to annex Genoa to the French empire. The particular gcoi;raphical situation of the Genoese terri. tories seems to have been a primary motiTe to this measure. That republic, extending along the gulph to which it has given name, was interposed between Piedmont and the Mc> Siterranean ; aud as this' latter country had bcoa united to and expressive. The pa1a«e of the doge {« m but not to be compared with the palaces of private persons. The pillars are daubed""' with paint, and the marble is concealed T whole building appears rather to nre(eni grandeur than to possess it. FrontiiiP; the 3 case in the court are marble busts of Andre John Andrea Doria, which are ill executed The great hospital has been built bv ih grandees of Genoa. Its marble pillars, its j, i some staircase and avenue, and the. t^rputnc the whole excite admiration. The sick of »■ J nation and of every faith are here admitted m the number of them in winter frequently ainou I to sixteen hundred. The hospital is oinameinJ with about seventy statues of persons wbohaJ made donations; and the kind of rank wi|i(| these statues maintain among each othrr is J markable. Those who have bestowed tit'tv iboJ sand livrcs of Genoa have each a marble busU those of a hundred thousand have a whole lenrtj statue; and those who have given a greater sj are seated. From (fcnoa the Count took the road to Pavi* which was culled Ticnnum by the Roman When it was the seat of the Lombard kings, it) probable that, in proportion to the time!), it J a more considerable city than it is at prrsenl The number of its inhabitants is computed i about thirty thousand. Pavia is noted fnr in university, which was founded by Charlema? The divines of this university are famous forthfi rectitude, their zeal, and their talents. number of students amounts to about twelve hiigl dred. There are six different colleges, in wind students are instructed gratis. The collegians iti distinguished by the colour of their robe an embroidered ornament, which they wearupol France, the incorporation of Genoa became nccessarji) oomplututho arrangement. As a niarli of pulley, it hi buaii suggested, but with what truth we prett'iid not I vouch, it was determined, that the proposal shun I J ori|;inil| with the senate and the people of Genoa, and that NapnkM should luem to accede to tlie general withes and entratii of the rcpnblic. Accordingly the senate, after due delilit ration, resolved that an address should be presented to .\'|J poleon, praying that he would allow the republic uf Genoil to bo permanently united to the French empire. TotM address ho listened with attention and with i'avi)ur;, is the principal of the states' of the church. < The grand institution for the encoiiragemcnti of the sciences and the fine arts, which founded in li?3, is an enornu which contains above forty apartments, withj many halls under them, and a provision for the support of the arts and sciences, rich beyond al" that I have ever seen, says the Count, 'fhi cabinet of natural history is not only amply prJ vided with the wealth of nature, in every division! of her three kingdoms, but the specimens are peculiarly fine, especially the fossils. The library contains above a hundred am twenty thousand volumes, not including the nu- merous and valuable manuscripts, which 611 ai entire apartment. Besides which those apart' ments that are dedicated to study are furnishedl with a library for each cience. The hall of^ anatomy is large, and well supplied witii al parts of the human body, which arc admirabljl imitated in wax. The large and valtiable coH lection of philosophical instruments wliirh b^j longed to the late lord Cowper was purchased 1790 by some private citizens of Bologna, ai4| presented to the institution. Next to Rome there is no city in the world m| rich in excellent paintings as Bologna. Here we find noble specimens of all the great artists ol Europei and the master pieces of those painten who formed themselves in this school. Of aboul two hundred and fifly churches, there are few] which do not contain some of the works of tbesej great artists, and many are full of them. There are two small square towers in the citjJ M^hich are named after |)ie opMemeo at whose ' ' •■"■^ ^ ■•" expend GKRMy ^nee they were biiilt, Asine Kght of the first is thi ^JIx kri, and that o Biriseodi a hundred and thu Idsso obliquely that the top perpendicular. Tlie peo] iJo this a wonderful effort Jioiiffh probably it is nothing m Lweofthe sinking of the gr( mncc; Us Picture Gallert Senevoknt Societies— Pisn; its Cathedral and Library— ^fSunta Maria Maggiore— 1 ^f Modern Fome—Descripti 1HE city of Florence, wh its freedom was one of the -jirope, does not now contain n |iur thousand inhabitants. Its ibeautifiil; and its four large ind appearance; but it is n jeets are narrow and crooked. iliery contains pictures of tht lut they are not their best pei Wter provided with ancient st jins the finest productions of lall abounds with statufs of m nperors and empresses, the f .Hedicis, an Apollo, the R irrestlers, and the dancing f: lead of Alexander dying is oft [The museum of the Gram ample and* remarkable collcct!< kiiijtdoms of nature. The an nons, in wax, are executed w pf deception. Here are a vast lens of birds, which are equa fld in all their natural attitud Jmirably rich in insects and nineralogical collection is e) The new palace of the gran Palazzo Pitti, from its former in appearance without, and n |It is most remarkable for iti |)ictures. The church of 8t. Lawrenc GFRWANY, SWITZERLAND, ITALY, AND SICILY. 4'29 nenee they were built, Asinelli and Garisendi ffijjight of the first is three and that of hundred and the town of lentv-*"^ fe*^i Biriseudi a hundred and thirty. The latter iindsso obliquely that the top is nine feet from perpendicular. Tlie people of Bologna jjeii) this a wonderful effort of architecture, ii;h probably it is nothing more than a conse- iffi of the sinking of the ground* llioiig . Iiueoceofthe Here, as in many parts of Italy, the men wear cloaks; and the women, as in Moflena, have them of black sattin. At a distance from several of the gates arcades are biiiif, as walks. Tiie young gentlemen exhibit themselves frequently in this city as so manv Phaetons, in their high carriages; in which they drive standing, and have servants behind. SECTION XI. f !omcc; Us Picture Gallertf, Statues, Museum, Palaces, Paintings, Churches, Library, and benevolent Societies—- Pisa; its mild Air, Tower, Cathedral, Houses, and Exchange — Sienna,' its Cathedral and Library — Rome — Thermo; of Dioclesian — Fontana del Aqua Fetice — Church of Santa Maria Maggiore — Triumphal Arches of Constantine and Titus — Manners of the People \ ^f Modern Pome — Description of St. Peter's Church. ^HE city of Florence, which in the time of its freedom was one of the most populous in urope, does not now contain more than seventy- \m thousand inhabitants. Its site on the Arno ibeautifiii; and its four large brfdges give it a ind appearance; but it is not well built: the Ireets are narrow and crooked. The Florentine illery contains pictures of the greatest masters, but they are not their best performances. It is letter provided with ancient statues ; for it con- u'ns the finest productions of antiquity. The ^illabouiKls with statui's of many of the ancient nperors and empresses, the famous Venus de ifedicis, an Apollo, the Roman slave, the irrestlers, and the dancing fauns. A colossal ktad ot Alexander dying is of the highest beauty. The nuiseiim of the Grand Duke is a very kmple and* remarkable collection from the three |iiij>:doins of nature. The anatomical prepara- liflns, in wax, are executed with great powers \tf deception. Here are a vast number of speci- ens of birds, which are equally well preserved, tad in all their natural attitudes. It is likewise dmirably rich in inserts and shells; and their nineralogical collection is exceedingly ample. The new palace of the grand duke, called the Palazzo Pitti, from its former possessor, is noble in appearance without, and magnificent within. |It is most remarkable for its tine collection of pictures. The church of St. Lawrence is famous for be- ing the burying place of the family of the Me- dici. There is a fine library belonging to this church, the books of which are all chained to the tables, but may ]}e reached with convenience. The number of books does not appear to be con- siderable, but it con'.ains some choice manu- scripts. Here is a noble institution, which does honour to Florence, and which originated in the age of liberty. A community, which is called La Societa della Misericordia, which consists of all ranks of people, make it their duty to afford aid to the poor and helpless of the city. After en- quiring into the diseases of the sick, they either take thizui to an excellent hospital or into their own houses. Any person, meeting with an ex- traordinary misfortune, may depend upon re- ceiving succour from this community. When the society assemble, or when any sudden acci- dent calls a number of them together, they ap- pear in masks: partly from prudence, to conceal themselves, and partly not to put the poorep membersof the society tr the blush, bv the differ- ence of dress in the more wealthy. Thev afford their aid, when necessary, unasked. When a distressed person meets with any accident, though he have never belonged to the society, he is made welcome. Similar societies, which are called coi\fraternita, are common in the to>vns of Italy. Pisa is well deserving of notice, and is remark- able for the fine air it enjoys. The toad is plea- B&Dt» mmm Ml m;i^. pir f' I ' i m I'sm iiV 11. 1 ^ I'.- $'1^ ', ) ' li- '■ ^ ii. -A ■v.: 1 1 ' ^.ir^ 430 STOLBERG'S TRAVFLS THROUGH » Bant, and sonietlmes leads by the bunks of the Arno. The land is cultivated with extreme rare, und planted with nuincroiis olive and mulberry trees. Pisa must have been built some centuries before the destruction of Trov. It became one of the principal cities of the Etrurians. On the decline of the Roman empire, it obtained its freedom; which contributed, with its situation on the Arno, to raise it to abigh degree of power and rule. The people of Pisa took the islands of Sardinia and Corsica from the Saracens, the town of Palermo in Sicily, and likewise of Carthago. It greatly aided the crusaders, and theins«'lve8 raised the siege of Alexandria in Egypt. After- wards its liberties received a most deadly wound in the war it waged with Genoa. In this war Pisa lost twelve thousand men, forty-nine gallies, its haveiij Porto Pisano, and the navigation of the Arno. From this time the commerce of Pisa greatly declined. After the last struggle to re- cover its liberty, Pisa declined so fast, that from a hundred and fifty thousand, its inhabitants were reduced to about Hfteen thousand. The famous tower of Pisa, which is swayed fifteen feet from its centre, has a noble appear- ance: it is the belfry of the cathedral. In this church is the famous Campo Santo, which con- sists of a spacious corridore within a court, the figu e of which is an oblong square. The houses of the city are ancient; the streets, however, are wide; and, on one quay, there are some noble palaces. The exchange consists of very handsome nigh arcades, built with stone, which on festival days are illuminated. Sienna lies high among (be Apennines, between hills that are planted with olive trees. This town is indebted for its cool summers to the height of its situation; but its winters are often severe; at least they are thought so by the Italians. Its cir- cumference is computed to be a German mile, yet the number of its inhabitants is only seventeen thousand. It formerly contained a hundred thou- sand people. The cathedral is an excellent gothic building, of white and red marble. The front is perfectly gothic, and covered with nume- rous carved images. The pavement within the church is of great beauty: it represents stories from holy writ, in mosaic work; and ia covered with boards, which are rem(«ved when strangers come to visit the church. Here is what is called (he library; but ia which the onl; books now iiniiiia; fol remaining are about Hiirty large folio yohniH church music, which have belonged tether tl dral more than three hundred years. Xh decorated with finely illuminately figures nJ^ by a monk. ' * The entrance into the city of Rome is thrn La Porta del Popola, and is very grand 'fhJ gale is likewise is called Porta Flan here the Flamiiiian wav began. The ThermsB of Dioclesian are in Ihisctl The wood Therma; ma^ be easily misnnderstoLf it iiiav he supposed to mean nothing more (i. ] warm baths; but the baths were nrorKii,. J more than accessory. 1 he chiet purpose of wU was called the Thermse was to form a njaco fw the exercise both of body and mind. Tlit nlai and its execution exceed all expression. Hereid one row of buildings, all in harmony vvitheacH other, there were four half circular halls; wiy were intended, two for philosophers, one poets, and another for orators. A Greek and! Latin Libsary, a building for boys to play,] ball in, the warm baths, three spacious on places, one for wrestlers, one for tlu: canting i the discus, the third for throwing the lance, a a large bath for swimmers. At the two com were two round temples. One of these templa which constituted but a small part of the wJioM is now become the church of the Bernardin The whole wall is ancient. The place whid was destined fo.r the wrestlers is now becomei Carthusian church, built in the form of aGrei cross. The large bath for swimmers is dried u and is now the garden of the Carthusians. Th Bernardiiie cloister, many large granaries of i Pope, and a great laundry, take up the r^ mainder of the place which was fornieclj apart for these buildings. Near these Thermas is the beautiful Foiitaiu del Aqua Felice; so called after Sixliis tb Fifth, whose proper name was Felix. pope restored tlie ancient aqueducts, and \\ib-i wise the fountain of Aqua Julia, that waserecU| by Agrippa. The church of Santa Maria Maggiore m built in the middle of the fourth century, inmi the pontificate of Pope Liberius, on the ruiiuolj the temple of Juiio Lucina. Within it was enJ tirely of the form of the ancient basilica, otl court of justice; a form which was cliosenbjl the Christians for two rcaions : first, because off theif^ GERM ANY. SWlTgERLAKP, tTALY, AND STCILV. 4dl fheiV dislike to the Pagan temples; and, secondly, Lcause the forna of the basilic best corresponded ith the church service, and the liturgy of those ' Mot far from the Colosseum are the ruins of a (einple> which was dedicated to Phoebus and Diana.' It rested on two semi rotunda, the back parts of which touch each other. The triumphal arch of Constantine is in good preservation; and, for the most part, it is em- yt'iihei with statues and bassi relievi of ancient times. Over the triumphal arch there is the jvure of the hero, as a conqueror, in bronze, in a chariot with four horses. The triumphal arch of Titus is much cele- brated. Here are seen the river Jordan, one of {he seven-branched candlesticks of the temple, tnd stable with the shew-bread, carried in tri- umph. In the hollow of the arch above is the ipotbeosis of Titus. The Jews to 4his day do got pass through the arch, but on one side. On the right of the triumphal arch of Tiius ire the ruins of the Temple of Peace, which ap- pears to be the largest of those that were erected by the Romans. The education of the daughters of the nobility J modern Rome is wretched. Indeed, from tlie ediu ation of the women, domestic virtues, with them the domestic happiness of the ranks, are injured; and the poison of m vices sheds itself among their inferiors; passions, without this concomitant, are iolent to excess. It is dreadful to hear, that, Rome, the population of which is estimated a hundred and sixty-eight thousand persons, icre are annually about live hundred people lurdered I do not believe, says Count Stolberg, lat, in all Germany, lifty men perish by murder itbin the same period. The people of Rome annot he j ustly accused of robbery. A stranger DO where safer, but is more frequently plunder- in most of the great cities of Europe. The Oman stabs his enemy, but does not rob. Dger is his stimulus; and this anger frequently lins;er« (or months, and sometiioea for years, till finda an opportunity for revenge. The pas- ioat of the people of Rome are frequently [oused, by playing at mora, though the law i • Thii tiotsount was written by Count Stolbei^ on the (dof Jiiiumry, 1709 ; and these matters still continue tho Vol. II. No. C. severely prohibits this game; and, if they are disappointed at the uioment of their revenge, they wait for a future occasion. Jealousy is another common cause of murder : it being with them an imaginary duty to revenge the seducer of their wife, their daughter, or their sister, on the seducer. The catholic religion, ill un- derstood, encourages the practice: the people being persuaded, that, by the performance of trifling ceremonies, and inflicting of penance, they can wash away the guilt of blood. All the assiduity of the present Pope**^ is not suflicient to reform the police; the faults of which originate in the constitution of Rome. Many churches afford a sanctuary to the pursued culprit. Foreign ambassadors likewise yield protection; which extends not only to their palaces, but to whole quarters of the city, into which the officers of justice dare not pursue offenders. The ambassadors, it is true, are obliged to maintain a guard; but who is igno- rant of the mischief arisii^ from complicated jurisdiction? Many cardinals seek to derive honour by affording protection to pursued cri- minals. Could we find all these abuses collected in any other great city, many men would be murdered, though not so many as in Rome ; but robbery would be dreadfully increased, vi^hich is here unknown. A sense of the ancient grandeur of Rome is not yet quite lost to the people. When the Queen of Naples was last here, and at the theatre, she was received with great applause. Self-for- bearance induced her to make signs to the people to cease their loud clapping, a|id their shouts of welcunte. The people took this very ill; and, the next day, a person of my acquaintance, says the Count, heard one orange woman say to another, " Did you hear how the foreign queen despised our people last night? ^e must surely have forgotten tliat man^ queens, before now> have been brought in chams to Rome." To enter into a particular description of the various antiquities, remains of amphitheatres, &c, within the city of Rome, would naturally lead us into a detail of ancient history, which our limits w uld not admit; we shall therefwe eoa- clude our account of this celebrated city with a aante. What effect tke govemmant of tbe asw king of Italy may bave vpoa these practices we preanme not to lay. 5 R description .■';i,> ; I ( n .' k ii''^l:l. 1: ii tl- ■ y 'm i i i ■■'■ I 43i^ STOLBERG'S TRAVELS THROUGH description of St. Peter's church, which we are the rather inclined to, hecaiise Qf its mag- nificence, and bccaiHe the Cpiint scenw to have passi'd it over, almost in silence, from other authentic documents. The far-famed ciuircU of St. Poter is sitnatinl on the west side of the river in>Trrt><(iv<'re, and is greati}' admired, both for its dimensions ami its architecture. That the read«!r may liave a good idea of the building, we need only to mention, that St. Paul's Cathedral at London is built after the same model. The length of the outside of St. Peter's, including the portico, is seven hun- dred and twenty-two Eiigli.sh feet. The length within, not taking the portico, or the thickness of the walls, is five hundred and ninety-four feet. The breadth of ii from the north side of the cross to the south side, or from the north to the south door, on the outside, ^s four hundred and ninety feet. The breadth, from the north to U>e south door within is four hundred and thirty-eight feet. The breadth of the body of the church is eighty- six feel eight inches. The height of the body of the church is an hundred ami forty-four feet. The outward circumference of the dome or cupola is six hundred and twenty feet. The circumference of the dome within is four hun- dred aud forty-nine feet ten inches. The breadth of the front of the church is four hundred feet. The height from the pavement to tlic top cf the cross which is over the ball is four hundred and thirty two feet. The circumference of the ball is twenty- four feet si;£ inches. The height of the statues which are on the cornice of the front is eighteen feet. The body of the church, as well as the cupola, is sustained by large square pillars, jike those in St. Paul's, but have the ad- vantage of being incrustated or overlaid with jnarblc, as well as the walls, which is however so tarnished by the smoke of the lamps and candles that the plain stone in St. Paul's looks full as well. .The great altar is directly under . the cupola, being a kind of pavilion supported by four wreathed brazen pillars, adorned with foliages, and strewed wilh bees, which are the arms pf Pope Urban VIII. Over every column of the altar is an angel, brass gilt, seventeen tieet high, with the figures of children playing and walking on the cornice, the height of the whole being ninety feet; and about the altar are an hundred silver lamps perpetuaUy burning, Tr inside of the cupola is ornamented with ^^ work, representing Paradise, the Eterniij Pat|''° and many other figures; and in the corners bei'"' are the four Evangelists of the same kind ""J work, admirably well executed. On the ins j of the four square pillars which Bnpport ji,! ciipola are erected gigantic statues of St, Veron' 00, St. Helena, St. Longinus, and St. Andrew" and under the pedestal of each statue is an aU 'l with a beautiful picture of each saint. Thri statues and pictures are placed here in renrdtt certain relics which arc kept in the vestries be longing to these altars or chapels, as thcyai^l called; as, first, the handkerchief, which, aj; J cording to tradition^ St. Veronica lont our^ Saviour as he was carrying his cross to IVIoup Calvary, and still retains the print of his face* 2. A piece of the real cross of Christ. 3. 'rh»l top of the lance wherewith Longinus pierced oi> Saviour's side, sent as a present by Bujazet, cnv, peror of the Tui'ks, to Pope Innocent VlJl] And, 4. The Head of St. Andrew. Under thj high altar there i»a stair case which leads (otJiJ chapel where, it is said, part of St. Peter's bodJ is kept, and to the other holy places in thd vaults of this church. An old wo. den cbairi supposed to be St. Peter's, enclosed in brass, anil supported by four doctors of the Roman churcy whose Colossean statues are of brass gilt, is Do(i one oi the least ornaments of St. Peter's; th/ chair, with all its furniture, having cost sever thousand five hundred and fifty Roman crown^ The riches and beauty of the chapels and altan round the walls of this church can never be ei>l pressed : the gilding, carving, embossed workj statues of brass of marble, are all disposed bv sol wise and happy a contrivance, that the aliunJ dance does not cause the least confusion. Amonfl other admirable pieces, the Dead Christ, offl alabaster, by Michael Angelo, is said to be ai stupendous work ; the two wreathed pillars off alabaster brought from Jerusalem by Helen, tbtl mother of Constantine, and erected at a sidiT >.Uar, are much admired; tlie altar-piece re>| presenting St. Michael, in mosaic work, sbewil such a vivacity of colours and exact proportion of all the parts and lineaments of the body, it passes for a wonder of its kind ; the Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, the Visitation of the BIcsm * Que of these hatji^korchicff is kept at Jurio : which is the right one we shall not attempt to determine. Virgi* GERMANY, SWITZERLAND, ITAr.Y, AND STriLY. 43S f .ffiir, the Crucifixion of St. Peter, the fall of Jlon Mfta"*' and a thousand other historical I >cs are exq-uisite performances. There are rL a great nmnhfcr of tombs of popes, cardinals, I'd othor persons of distinrtion; paiticularly 1*1 g of the emperor Otho II. Charlotte, queen 1 ficriisalein ; and of Adrian IV. the only English ["one. I'h® ^"^"^^ ^^ ^^' ^^*^'' serves for an altar 11' 'jy mass on. The tombs of Urban VIII. In ,1 [[[. Alexander III. the countess Matilda, Iwhocave her estate to the church, are works of L finished beauty and magnificence: nor does the llomb of Christina, queen of Sweden, who volun- Larily iibiindoned the glories of a crown for a re- lligious retirement, fall short of the rest. The lii«i(lc of St. Peter's is adorned with above a hun- Lf^d columns of the finest, and for the most Ejrt, antique marble, with some of brass. Here lire also an inBnite number of excellent paintings, Ihe master-pieces of the most celebrated pencils; ■ith several other curiosities of art and nature, Hbichcan never be too much admired or applaud- ed for their magniticence. The sacristy of this Iburch, and that of the Pope's, contain also a ut variety of sacred utensils in gold and silver jiriched with precious stones, as crosses, shrines, litlices, pontifical tiara's, mitres, priestly habits, 4nd ornaments that are inestimable. If we look Lpon the building only, exclusive of its rich naterials and furniture, the church of St. Paul I London, is very little inferior to that of St. peter. Some think St. Paul's is to be preferred it, since the latter is not encumbered with lapelson the sides, as that of St. Peter's is, irhich greatly obscure the prospect of the building. That n which thel «i. w one of ihj modern CapitoJ ound the court,! rithin is support J pre are mauvrel into a descriptiuj tiqucs which ai tments and a lou^ '"•«*»• Weshaltl uore remarkable, court, which i )r pillars within, iJ e antiques. Hei » of the godda accouut of tbei iR ancient Romi iresented inbasid ftining the Cvbtld spresented on ll ihip in which L, one side of thi id on the other i um. The ih^ nbolof At)$,tliJ 8. ho lived in ,_ us an idea, iij hem to seek the I late wcreaotaliiu, us. How were tliq 'his would hare bei Id each individual, md dignities (liattl ibliui Scipio Nasia wof adjudged toh r youth when lit i I women of the r Dd receive the | Mnds, from <* H different hitU. i which was fasta and. By thii i ' id before, accoi intniatuN i\l H \ f! I I ■<>m Si; I ^ !; 1 »^ rk n ;i'(l and liriviii breadth at bottom, and is covered \>itli r was removed at a tolerable height up. the ivraniid, to give entrance; and the dead were iroiii;lit down into their cells through oblique lark |);iss;igos. One side of the pyramid is con- tlod bv » part of (he Aurelian city wall, which irroiiniis it, and (he whole building can only st'tMi at a distance from the city. Facing this vrainid tlicre is an open place, which is the lurial ffidtiiul of the Protestants. II a iiltic excursion irom Home to La Riccia, llheaiiripiit Aricia,) which is about three Ger- :iii iniics from Rome, the Count informs us at tli(! Ciimpagna di Roma is very naked, siitiite of trees, and ill cultivated ; and in [!i!(li little is to be met with except the monu- hits of the ancients. The eye long continues to |il!(i\\ the aqtit'duct which was carried-froui there )Tivi)li, but which, in various places, is fallen to liin<. Many of the sepulchres of the ancients are I iIm; road, and have more or less fallen to decay. [Iiov particularly point nut the direction of the cit'iit Appiun way; on each side of which, Lording to the custom of the ancients, who [(ctod these monuments on the road side, many If now standing*. I* Thiii cuetom gives us tliu true mraning of so many an. fit iiibciiptioiis, whicli begin witli tlio words " Sisto miltim, liatoi:" it was rational to address the passenger ] the hii,-lt road : but it is absurd, or at lc>i«t thoughtless, bii;iiiiiiM:ri|)tions of modern mniiimirufs, erected in byo ia», Willi ihc words, "Stop, Pas,«enger." IVoL. a. No, c. ' •' ' " Albaim is a small insignificant (own, yot is much visited and inhabited in auiuiun and (lie beg-inning of Kpritig, by (he principal Romans, who have villas here. Ilifrli old walls, which appoarto surround a kind of court, are supposed to be the remains of the barracks iu wliicli the Roman soldiers lived. Poinpey and Cloilitn liad coimtry hou.ses here; as at'terwards li mI Tiberius, Caligula, and Douiitiaii. INIany great ruins of the villa of the latter are at present to be ne.vn in the Villa Rarbarini. They extend as far as Castell Grandolfo, and to the banks of the Alban lake, on which Domitian UKcd to represent his Nauinuchiaf . Ruins of an amphitheatre, and vast terraces supported by Arcades are the prin- cipal objects. The district of Albano was so called from the aneient town of Alba, which was much older than Rome, and which the Romans destroyed about six hundred years be- fore the building of Albano. La Riccia is one of the oldest towns in Italy. About eleven hundred years before Christ its in- habitants were driven out by the Pelasgi and CBnolrii united. Near La Riccia there is an an- cient monument, which some have supposed to be the sepulchre of the Horatii and Curiatii. The gate which leads out of (he city of R.omo to the ancient suburb was built by Dolabella, the son-in-law of Cicero, in the year that he was Consul. Not far 'iom this place is (he church of Lateran, the oldest church in Rome, and probably the most ancient in Christendom. This building was founded by Constant! ne; and was originally built in the style of St. Paul's church at Rome. i'^acing the Lateran stands the largest and most ancient obelisk. It was brought to Rome by Gernanicus, and is supposed to be of the time of the ancient Egyptian king Rhamses;);, who was a powerful conqueror. Another obelisk, which .stands in front of the council house, on the Monte Citurio, is said to be of the age of Sesostris|| . To the son of Sesostris, Pheron, who is said to be Pharaohj ihe oppressor of the Israelites, + Naval rngagomcnts. X Perhaps that Rhara«os who reigned in Egypt 1808 years before Christ. II Sesostris reigned in Egypt 1722 years before Christ. ■ 5 8 ■whom .:*; h< '■: y I 1 :,l ; y I \ i ■: m .]■ '■:- .:'.'■ f i'H ' '■ '' '^ i\ ' \-M ■ it'- li iM' 'MMI ■A 1 435 STOLRERG'S TUAVFLS THROUGH ■whom the power of God by the arm of Moses desiroycd, th^' obelisk is ascribed, which stands before the church of St. Peter. It is the only one whicli contains no hieroglyphics*. The obelisk which was on the Piazzo del Popolo is ascribed, by Pliny, to a much later king, Semneserteus ; in whose time Pythagoras \isited Egypt, Pythagoras was contemporary of Cyrus and Solon f. Beside these four principal obelisks, there are seven others that ornament diB'orent places of Rome. The Pantheon is the only monument that has withstood the ravages of time, or rather of the barbarians, who so often desolated Rome. It was built by Agrippa after the Latlli" of Actium, arid consecrafetl to Jupiter the Avenger, whose statue was placed in the prituxipal niche over the entrance. In the other six niches were statues of other gods. The architrave rests on sixteen large columns ofgiallo antico, or yellow African marble, the chapiters of which were of the bronze of Syracuse. The cupola is perfectly hemispherical. The light falls entirely from above, through a circular aperture, which is twelve ells in diameter, and has a clear and plea- sant efll'ect. In the wall between the niches there were tabernacles, with frontispieces supported by small columns of giallo antico ; which, as well as the niches themselves, now serve for altars. The brazen gates, which formerly were embellished with bassi reMevi, notwithstanding that they have been robbed of their ornaments, are beautiful in their "grandeur. The whole a"chitrave, with its posts and entablature, are of the noblest architecture. The c«>lumns of the portico bear deep traces of conflagrations; to as which calamity Rome was so frequenfly 8ul,if,i| The emperor Phocas granted the Pantlie,, Pope Boniface IV, by whom it was consctr ,1 as a church. By degrees it was embel|,L with statues and pictures. The church is j called the Rotunda, and is dedicated to tlie iriJ Virgin and all the martyrs. \ There are several columns erected at Rom I monuments of the fame of different nerso r^ The pillar of Trajan was erected on the F(!ri!| which bore his name. Trajan's statue was J moved by Sixtus V. from the top of this niliil and that of St. Pcfer placed in its stead, ' tJ pillar of AntoKine was erected, by the senate the emperor Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, 'k same pope likewise removed the statue of ;\u cus Aurelius Antunine from the top of this i and put in its place the statue of St. Paul. The Museum Pium Clementinum is ccrtainll beyond all comparison the most beatitiful c»|y tioy of antiques now in existence. At lir,i only occupied some apartments on that siJeo the Vatican which, from its extensive prosned has been called the Belvedere. Clement XIV enlarged the place, because he improved the rid collection. The present pope has built new galleries and two charming rotundas ii ditioo, and adorned it with numerous ni . pieces. In this museum is likewise a gallery i paintings. The Palazzo Borghese is one of the hm and most magnificent palaces of Rome. It^ij tains two galleries; one of whicli belongs lot prince Borghese, and the other to liiii unci prince Aidobrandina. In the first, which isi spacious, are many beautiful pictures ; us tl are likewise in thait of the prince AldobraiidiaiJ V SECTION V. Juurnetj to J^liplcs — G'acla — Xaplcs — The Laznroni — The Hill and Grotto of Posiliiu) — Tun Vivgil — Pozzuoti — Palace of Capo di Monte — Church of St. Januarius — Solfuturu — ilMirii — Description of an Eruption — Discover)) of Herculaneum—Lake of ,/ignano, ami La Cr 'fij Cane — Monicktmc — .Milcto — Oppido, and dreadful Effects of the Earthquake in 178.'}— .S /lij Calabria — Begnara — Sci/Ua — jilcssina in Sicili/ — Palermo — The Sirocco — Girgenti — Sijruc"M.\ n|~^HE road towards Na; .cs leads through X pleasant districts. The road is good, the • This was Amenophis 111. of I'rofine history, win roigncdin Kgvpt i')9(i } tsars bcfjrc C'lutsf. canal broad and clear, and different la'eralcan|j drain a part of the Pontine Mar^h. Thcdrii + About 560 years 'icfo.c Chritt . .-.If squenflv whim ti»e Pantheon t was consecrate! wa» eiiibellislij ■ ^■liurch is nod ated to the Ho] reeled at Ron,e| lifferent personj ed on the FornJ J statue was lej •pof this jiill its stead. T|)J by the senate, Antoninus. Tb c statue of },\^ top of this iiilJ f St. Paul, inum is tertainll beautiful collej iiice. At fir «t| \ ! h > .,.-/ 'i •ii ■ - ii I 1 1 i i- ill*' \: ;■ ^■i:: t i \'i: i !" \ \ k ' y f mill 'i 1^. :^ , i '"> 1 ' Tf ' ■ ■1 1 '<• > 1 7 ■: 1 ' ' ' |y''i mM Mm&kA GF.RMANTY, SWITZFHLAND, ITALY, AND SICirT. 437 fjliis marsh has bccu begun by the present , Pius VI. and those verdant fields arc con- niiattd with delight which, for ages, had V,", .gviTcd with stagnant wafer. Parts that are leinost Iiiimid are either converted to pasture , nliiited with trees. The Apennines rise on [h left, and on the right is a prospect of the Much, however, remains to be done be- ifretliis road from Rome .to Naples will be Liable at all seasons of the year;, and which iii^t be parsed if a carriage be used. The air l^lij, piiit is verv dangerous in July, August, I 1 i;,.|)t('ml)('r. Farther on the country is ex- Liiilvdeli^litful and amazingly fertile. Pears Lc Iccii ;iutlicrcd on the !:i4th of December, ,i|vriit as. a present to the pope. Thus do pro- HiidiM' IiarvL'st and the flowery spring shake Lids d'H'ctlicr, in a country, such as the much- liiiil I'eiiclon sang of his abbey in the south of FraiiCC; ^ ■ Oii li' cii'I serein nous (loiinp <• " I," I'liiili-ms, ii\n<^i I'Autoinnc; S.11IS f.iii' place u l'H}ver. Wl'cre Sprinif smxoeils to Autumn, each serene; Anil i'V Winter diios not intervene. The fortress of Oaeta, ( formerly called Cajeta, ) \i lii(r|i, iiiid built on a circular rock on a pro- [jniitorv on the sea shore. There is a small tliiDiis, by which this promontory is connected iiitlithp winding coast, on which the long and hjrrow suburbs of Gacta are built, that contain limit rmirtccn thousiind inhabitants. In the Llri'i'i titorc are only three thousand; its works Lflicwetl in the ro( ks, and rise very high above llicsia. Here is a plupnomenon so remarkable lss(l(!i)in "to bo ('quailed. A rock of an incre- iblt' lifitiht seems to be burst open from top to liiillom: the two sides are full three cDs distant; liidinthc centre, where the opening is much the greatest, there is a large stone, which forms a natural bridge, and connects the two rocks. This stone lies on the outward side, next the , ' Pious tradition rt-latos tlirtt the rock was llius cloven |tt!u'il>atti (if our Saviour. A chapel has been built upon Ljtoni'; to which the people go through a passigc lh.it In bill hownin the rock, and which is fifty .iseren paces llli'i:.;'il. t ') lure is one amona; them wiiose intlucncc is so great Lililu'v call'him Capo tic gli liaz.iroui, «. e the chief of ' I..i/iioni. He ROL'S barefoot, and in raj;s, like the ,,1. ill is the orator for tlie whole body when they iiave liiv ihin^' to ili'Piand of the goTernuicnt. lie then generally Ipillis ' I the Kletto del I'opolo, /. c. the representative of Iqii'Dpli': a kirJ of tribune, so far as such an olTicc can liiiiuuii uuliiuited monarchy like tliat of Maples, ile sea The city of Neapolis, or Naples, is of high antiquity, and Greek origin. It was called Neapolis, or New City, to distinguish it from its sister Pahepolis, or old City; but since the time of Augustus they have formed but one city. Naples is very large, and extremely populous: it contains above four hundred thousand, or probably as many as five hundred thousand, in- habitants; yet so excellent is the soil, that the necessaries of life are in great plenty and very cheap. The common people of Naples, and in- deed of all Italv, are very moderate in eating and drinking; and would rather suffer all the incon- veniences of life than remove them by their labour. Abstemious in a high degree, the clothing they need is trifling, the fuel none, and they can even live without a habitation. The class of people called Lazaroni, some of whom are n)et with even in Rome, are here computed at forty thousand. Many of these live in the open air, and at night, or in bad weather, take shelter under gateways, porticos, the caves of houses, or under the rocks. They cannot easily be persuaded to work whilst they have the smallest coin in their pockets. They never think of making provision for to-morrow. ^V ith care they are unacquainted. Should any one otl'tjr nioney to a Lazaroni, when lie is not pressed by necessity, he raises the back of his hand to his chin, and tosses his head upwards, bei^iig too idle to speak, in token of refusal; but, if any thing delights him, if he be invited to partake of any pleasure, no man is more talkative, more alert, more full of antics than himselff. The streets of Naples arc uncommonly crowd ' cii ; likewise appeals to llie tiiii^ '" person. To disregard any ronionsliatice of this people, or not to comply, without stali^^f the t,nounds of refusal, would be danneioiis. Tliey regard their kiiiK, aud in case of necessity, it is asserted, he uiigJit depend upon their assistance. rre\i us to the kiiisr's niaUini; a journey to (lermany, in 17f)l, Nicola Sahhato, the chief of the ] as many pieei'S as we arc men, and each of iis will have a morsel of him to smoke in our pipes." Dnrinc; the absence of tlie kin^ this Nicola Sabbato visitiii the princes and princesses, that, as he said, he might give the people an account of their welfare. He likewise visited the prime minister, Mr. Acton; and, on one occasion, came to him out of breath, demanding to speak to him. " I have just seen a man," said he, " in the dress of a pilgrim, in tho great square, who is distributhig French hand bills: the meaning of which neither I nor any of us yet understand ; and he is kissing a stone w hich he brought from tho ruins of the'' 'le. Ife will certainty excite an insurrection. Wc woii.a have thrown him into the sea, but I wished first to know your opinion; though I think wc ought to have thrown him into the sea." The minister had much difficulty to persuade him that a preliminary enquiry was necessary. Ho coutinually rcturaed to the necessity of throwing the man of sepulchre is shewn over the entrance Posilipo grotto. Some of the comm ui i.coni suppose him to have been a saint, others a cromancer*. The road throtigh this o^ro'tH leads to Pozzuoli, the Puteoli of the anciaits neighbouring place. To the north-west 1 immediately facing the city stands the six sily fortress called Castello di Sant' Elmo, whidi j entirely hewn out of a rock. What is called i Tomb of Virgil is upon the Posilipo, beside t entrance of the cavern. Although so nearl great city it stands in a solitary plate, anint trees and rocks, from which there is u nro^ ieJ toward the sea: a situation worthy thii deliL sensibility of the great poet. Pozzuoli was founded by the former inJiaJ tants of the island of Samos, five hundred ■! twenty-one years before the birth of Clitii The Romans called it Puteoli, from the iMini rous wells that are found in its vicinity. ;'„ J in Latin, and Pozzo in Italian, sigiiify n ^J Large pillars were erected on the haven, (n rcil the force of the waves; several of which slillrj main. The hill called Monte Burhari) has bn unfruitful since the time of the great earlliquilj which desolated Pozzuoli in the vcar l.j.SB. The royal palace of Capo di Monta is hiiilto a height, very near to the city of Najiles, aiid( the north side. The architect did nut (li>ctn« that the foundation on which it stood was holjii till after it was finished; and this fouiulaiiJ which was rectified after it was built, c(^t inoi] than the grand building itself. It was iniin^ as the residence of the king, and it isi visited m for the sake of the gallery, which contains maul into the sea; and when (he iiiiiii.ster told him he \voiil(U?g soldiers to put the man in prison, he rt'iiliid, "Tliini. occasion for soldiers; I will undertake ili.il liibim^J The man was accordingly taken to pris6n by liie l.uir, The contents of the hand-bill were declared sediiiuiij, 1 insurgent was one of those emissaries that wci't^ sunt, -j tho Count, by the too providei "^ care of tho IVi'iicli ckii over Europe, to enlighten, improve, and make tlii' |" happy. lie had disguised himself like a pilgrim, ami subject to the gallows, according to the cominun i'i<;lii nations; but the government only thought proper to banij him to tlie island of Maritima, one of the Orudis, uiii!i| west (tide of Sicily. • * When Robert of Anjou, king of Noples, onro passe through this cavern with Petrarch, he asked him whdtitrl were really true that Virgil had effected this miruiiel magic? To which the poet answered, <' I have nuvrrcii that Virgil was a magician ; and the traces timt I m i those of the pickaxe, uat of the JDevil," picturesl er g itself. It was iiiii'ii,., king, and it is* visited (ml ery, which contains uiaii iiiinisfor tcld him hcwoiiHls! risoii, he ii'|)li(.ii, " 'I'li.ni- rt'ill uiulorlakc rli.il Iiumih\ .ken to pris6n by liif \MM::i I were declared seditious. T; emissaries that wcii! sciit, .; del ' care of the rreiich c improve, and malt c tiiu iicujil liimgeir like a pilgrim, and »| rding to the coinuiua ri^liis t only thought proper to bani^ tna, one of the O^ades, out « 1, king of Naples, oiiro pasi trareh, he asked him whrikrl II had effected this niiruilel answered, *' I have nnvrtcij ; and the traces that I sic a] the Devil." picture!! vev the entrance of th e of the comm,„i,con been a samt, otliRrsani ad through tliis ffroti Puteohof theancii, lo the north-west, a 5 city stands the six'sjd di Sanf Ehiio, wlii,), rock. What is called t n the Posilipo, beside t n. Although so near a solitary plate, anioi; which there is a |)r()S|)e'( lation worthy the Mi^ poet. I ed by the former inliaj Samos, five hundred a J >ro the birth of Clirij Puteoli, from the imiiui nd in its vicinity, i',, ;, in Italiiin, signify r, ^i,! ted on the haven, to rcii several of whidi .still t( 1 Monte liarhari) has bi le of the great e;irlhqm oli in the vcar li").'J8. i Capo di Monta is built o the city of Najilcs, and J architect did nut divcovJ which it stood \vii8 hollo^H .^ led; and this fouiidalii^B ' it ""it was built, ctist moi^" ''■ ' '^1 t 'H I! I ■< :) P'<'T'V ■ \ ! 1 ■ ■ 1 Ai ' : ■; , t 't ' ' 7 A ']■' i , JlMMJ^ . •J 1 en WhencTcr Iho nimhlin;;; din becaiuu loiuler, a thuntlcriiig,' shiiwrr of slmio^ conliuuiill)' followed. I carviiot coiiiparR this siiblcrranvaii uproar to any tliin"^ bnUer than to the noise of cannon at SP:i; and it was as (\\\kk in succession us tlic dis- charge of nrli'lorv in such a coujb.it. Tiic rock on wlilch we sat shook very sensibly ot each dis- churfio of the mountain. The successive showers of ashes increased in blackness, and were always acconipanied with stones. These, when they It'll to the j^round, rolled down over the dross, villi a noise resembling hail against a glass win- dow. At intervals, when the din of the moun- tain and the showering of the stones had ceased, we heard a fearful gurgling, as of boiling water, A yellow smoke, instead of the black shower, occasiujially rose from the throat of the nu)unlaio, and wc ^aw the reflection of the sub- terranean tlaines (reiiilde among the rising pillars of Mi\(il»e; htiont;; gusis of which were likewise inipi lied out of the many little mouths round the rrater. Thus we sut upon the trembling rock, wliieh is il!>elf a prodigious mnnnuu>nt of the i power of the fire-emilting mountain, and en- j joyed one of the granilest spectacles of nature. ; The sinoke became vellow at the approach of , night, and, on our return to Portici*, we saw it rise of a (lame colour. The heM that pro- j cecdcd from an aperture, which burst forth in the month of August 17U0 was insuO'erable, and though when we were there it was a year and a half since this eruption liappened, the hot sur- face would not permit us tu touch it with our hands. The pleasant lake of Agnano lies not far from Solfatara, and something nearer than that to Naples. It is chiefly surrounded by high shores. * At Portici, sajs the Count, we took torches, and visited the theatre of The aiicitiit Iloracfea, m, us the Romans called it, llorculaneiini. This Greek tovin was en. tirrly huricd and destroyed by ashes and lava, d(,ring the great iTiiplion of Vesuvius, in the year 7fl after the birth of Christ, and in the Hrst year of the rcif;n of Titus. A jiirt of the seati of the aucient theatre were brouglit up, in )71.'J, by a fiirmcr, who was sinkini; a well. Kmaniicl, jirinre of F^Ibeuf, of the house of Lorraine, who was building in Portici, purchased the rii;ht of the farmer of dijrgiiij; farther, and a statue of Hercules was presently dis- covered, and afterwards one of (,'leopatra, with otiiers. At lenulii they came to a circular temple, which contained four and twenty alab;i.sfcr pillars, and as many statues, whicli were all sent to Vienna by the prince I'.ugeneof Savoy. In 1736 Don C^arlos, king of :\apl«Sj uudcrtook to build a Near n part of the shore, ut the foot of „ i)i| there is a cavern, which was called by {\\,> \ cienls the cavern of Charon. It is beder k at present by the name ofLa Orel ta del Cane"'' theCavern of iJogs; because itisarounuoiutiV to put a dog into the cavern, in order to coiuu J strangers of the mephitic tjualitics of the „'■ I The dt)g presently loses his senses, and must di J were he not dragged out, and, lo rtir over lii,!] dipped in the wtUer of the lake. It is iin|>()s,|[,J to lire a pistol in the grotto, for the air prpvej the powder in the pan from taking (ii(. 'il hot sul|)bur baths of the lake appear stron'fcrtlurt the vapour of the cavern. These baths arecalleJ Stufc, or stoves, di San Germano. TlieJ jj much esteemed for their clfects, and emit a hoi vipour, the smoke t)f which is so One that arti] fici'il means must be taken to render il visible. Monteleone was founded by the Crocks ol Locri, by whom it was calletl Hippo, or Hippo] nium. The town is situated on a gentle dJ clivity of the sea shore, on which AgatliotU once built a pier. The surrounding tounlrvi shady, .fertile, and hilly. This town was alinoi destroyed by the earthquake of I'lH'.i, ami iti| now chiefly composed of shops built of wood] and houses built of wood, brick, and mortar] These kind of barracks, as they are called bvili Italians, are frequently more expensive ihaJ stone houses, because wood is scarce and ston abinidant. Mileto, a small town was likewise destrovcdbJ the earthquake of 17H3, and at |)rescnt consist! of a few houses built in the same maimer as tliojt of Monteleone. The present Oppido is builtonakiudofbroal terrace of the woody Apennines, three Italiad palace in Portici, and purchased the house and land uf i. prince of KIbeuf, and the ancient town was disruvoruhl the depth of eighty feet. The bed of the river was fjmi which ran through the town, as likewise were tlio tcinplJ of Jupiter, with liis statue of gold, the theatre, anilinj largo equestrian statues of the two Ualbi, fatlier a.nlitui llcrculancum and Pompeii were both buried under tJ ashes thrown from the volcano in the above eruption; 39I the flaming ln>a took its course through botli thusetannJ The people dare not leave the cavities dug to come at Hi J culancum empty, because Portici and the village of itesiiiJ are built immediately over the buried place. After takisl out many remarkable articles, of household furnitjrc] arms, coins, and manuscripts rolled up, the opening m agaiu encloned. milci GFiniANY, SWITZF-ril. — ,-. \NT>, ITALY, AXn SlC'ir.V, 441 jp,'from , was nearly destroyed by (!ie earthquake. Farther alonp^ (he coast is Sciylio, or Scylla. The rock iinniortali/ed by llonier, on wl>ich the antic of the prince of Soylhi is built, o;ave (he town its name. It lies in part immediately on the shore; but the greater part is above, anions; the locks. The streets are narrow, and nine dill'erent rows of trees arc sccri standing ininicdiately one above the other. Over the highest of these fttniit rows, in somewhat of an obiiijue. direction, arc six or seven olher rows. In the earthquake of llSli some churches were thrown down, and others were damaged. The houses were most of them spared; yet this little town suHered a great loss ot inhabitants, and, Oppido excepted, the greatest. Terrified by the shocks, njost of the »nhabitants Hed to the sea shore. The prince of Scylla also left his higii castle, and hoped, not improbably, to find greater safety on the strand; but suddenly a whole mountain on the south shore was torn up, and cast into the sea. The waves, by this prodigious force, being driven from tlie land, returned with redoubled violence, and tarried away with them fourteen hundred and fifty men. Some sought to escape in the boats that weie on the strand: but both boat^ sand souls. It is aflTirmcd that in the sevenlecnii century it contained a hundred (honsiuid ji' ' bitants. It was half destroyed by (he eiirllKn,. j* in 1783; but it has in great part been n-buili" and the streets are now more spacious ami i,,,,,/ some. Tlie haven of Messina, which (.'liiiil' VI. made a free port, is certainly oiieof ihc u,,.. in Europe. The jieoplc of (his place (rude largely in the products of tlu'; isliur.l, \\lii(li j,, ^^ bountifully gifted by nature. The priiuipai ;ir. tides are corn, oil, wine, silk, (raw mj wrought,) fruits, and pot ash. The pu^nt population of Messina is estimated to bo llurtv-siv thousand. The ;. ir is very healthy, ami, iom. pared with the rest of Sicily, is coo!. Palermo is built on a cape thai (niids tin, westward mountains with (he promontory of Pelegrino. The founders of the ancient town arc not to be traced. Panornins, the former name of Palermo, signifies in (he CJrcck aiTciit haven; and, as (he haven of (his place is larr,. and excellent, there can be little doiihl but thai it was thus named by the Greeks. This citvii regularly built, and is divided into i\mt nearly equal parts by two principal streets, which crosi each other, that arc equal in their breadth, and that would be beautiful if, the houi^cs were belter built. Each window has its balcony with an Iron railing, for the inhabitants to eiijov (he cool of (he evening. In long streets, which at tlie and men were borne away, and neither body nor farther end appear narrow, you seem as if plank were afterwards seen. It was thus that the prince of Scylla perished. The situaiion of Messina is universally and justly celebrated for its beauty. It is built facing H»« bay, and is covered by mountains; the inten- mingling heights and depths of " hich atlbrd traces that appear to denote great convulsions. The bay extending to the right, from o. S. W. to N. N. E. is in the shape of a sickle, and the cape curves in such a manner as ahnost to enclose the haven. On the point of this caie there is a high Hght-housc, Messina is a very ancient town. In 1741 it was dreadfully visited by the plr.^ue, which was soon followed by a destructive kind jf small pox. At this time the population was reduced from abouJ seventy to twenty thou- .h * Wc must here remark, that a* the tinio of Count Stol- berg's \vritiuf<: this account, in 17S%, it was actually tlic neat of tke viceroy j but the iiubsequont progress of the were shut up in an iron cage. It contains abow a hundred thousand inhabitan(s. Pak'• some of them in good preservation, u. ■-. the stair rases of the three diflfcrent stories, many of the vomitoria. The late prince Biscaj removed the rubbish under which it lay, at I own ex pence. This town has several times been visjtcdl earthquakes and the rivers of fire that are poun out by MtnsL. In the spring of the third pt( the Sofii Olympiad, four hundred and twenljl four years before Christ, the fit lava m from the mountain, and laid dcso! '*>:. uietcrritoi of Catania. In 1669 it sutTered n.-tv; ably'>( the terrible eruption of the mountain. Theliil flowed in a broad and deep stream toward towtt. Instead of melting away the walls,! GERMANY, RWITZT:I?LAND, ITALY, AND SICfLY. 4i5 I expcc<«d* it was stopped by them, rose I liove tl>'^"'' "'"^ vocrdowrd them. Two re- [able phoBiiomeiia were produced by this II (1)6 traces of whieli will continue till Ihey Irereniovecl by some earthquake, or some new (joii. On the west of the town blcod the ll'iicient Benedictine monasterv, which now con- j.jly(f,jOiily a small part of the form*, r building. iToward tlie walls of this monaster}' a hif»h stream If |jya flowed, surrounded it on several sides, I (]feniiined, without touching it, immediately lleforctlie wall. The aspect of the indurated jiass is *'<*'■}' reinarkable. Another stream of ; overflowed that arm of the river Giudicollo th was called Canale de! Duca; and, as the ■atcr was much valued, the inhabitants made a UfM open' '1^ through the condensed lava, from li iifsiied a copious stream, and the clear ■aleruoNv continues to run from the vaulted lava siirings from a grotto of rock. The earth- Uake of 1669 was a dreadful one; and, ac- L(jji]|r to Amico, fourteen thousand of the in- Jjbi!s»i'» of thi.^ place were destroyed, at the Bine time that the field? were desolated by the (ireaming fires of iEtna. Both these terrors gain visih'd it in \irJ3, when the town by an sriliquakc was nearly reduced to a pile of ruins. Catania, however, rose out i^f its rubbish with ^vjiinor beauties. The broad streets are now d in a right line direction, and handbomely kuili. As It enjoys both .i considerable trade, Ind is situated in a very fertile country, its inha- lliants feel the bles^Ve threw stones into this crater, sa^s the Count, which rolled like distant thunder, till they at last fell, with a loud din, into the water below. After throwing the stone, I counted eight and forty pulsations before I heard the dashing of the water. This ex- periment seems t'» strengthen the opinion that the nutuths of the volcano are open to, and com- municate with, the sea. A short German mile from Lorctlo is the handsome little town of Uecanati, which is built on a hill, and in which the bishop of Loretto resides six months in the year. Loretto, a town containing eight thousand in- habit-mts, owes its origin to the Santa Casa, or Holy House; which, as pious iradition relates, was the same in which the angel Gabriel appear- ed to the Virgin, and in which, after the return of Ms^y and Joseph from Egypt, Christ con- tinued to live till he entered on his heavenly mission. We are told by the legend mat. in 1291, the anglais carried this house from Nazareth to Sclavonia, and in 1294 they took it from Sclavonia, brought it over the Adriatic, and set it down at Loretto. It now stands in the principal church, encased in mar- ble; on which histories from Holy Writ, by the greatest artists, are masterly cut in alto relievo. In this Santa Casa the supposed miraculous image of the Virgin, a porringer out of which Christ used to eat when he was a child, and a gown of his mother's are exhibited. This Holy House and the miraculous image bring pilgrims from the whole Catholic world, to pay their homage at Loretto; many of whom go round the Holy House on their knees; so that the knees of the pilgrims have made deep hollows in the stone pavement of the church. There are some beau- tiful pictures in a sacristy belonging' to the church. The famous treasure of Loretto is pre- served in a great hall, and contains uumberless costly U ':[ y. :';,•■ 1 M M ■M 1 t ■ ■ j •I \ : i 1! m ; i'l M i ' 'il i '■ .i.*i ' r'J] ,| : '111 III 44f)' STOLBERG'S TRAVKLS THROUGH ■ i P It! cosfly works and presents from private persons, kings, and states. In (lie dispensary of Loretto, which appertains to the Santa Casa, there are three hundred and thirty vases of Faenza shewn. All the poor of Loretto are provided with medicines gratis from this dispensary. The annual revenue of the Santa Casa is estimated at seventy thou- band s^Midi, and its annual expenditure at not less than forty thousand; from which the bishops, canons, and governor of the town are paid. Loretto is half a German mile from the Adriatic, and is protected by fortresses against pirates: in- deed the shallowness of the«hore will not admit the approach of large ships. The hilly coi'otry between Loretto and Ancona is fertile and pleasant. This town is built on the hills San Ciriaco and INi r (r-iasco, and in the valley that lies between '. Ancona was a" settlement of the fugitive .a <.cusans, who, in the time of the elder Dionysius, detesting the tyrant, made a descent at this place. They called the town A neon, from its angular situation: this •word in Greek signifying an elbow. The town is handsomely built, and, as it is a free port, the inhabitants enjoy a respectable and visible pros- perity. Biiscliing states its population at twenty- two thousand souls; of whom he estimates the Jews at five thousand. According to an ancient degrading law, the Jews are to wear a red rag, or lappet, hanging from the hat; but it is not enforced ; and as, like ths Portugueze Jews, they wear no beard, they are only distiiiguished from the Christians b^y their national physiog- nomy; which still continues to characterize them, although they have been scattered nearly eighteen hundred years over the different nations of the earth. They only suffer their beards to grow for eighty days when they are under any deep affliction. All religions arc here tolerated. Its trade is increasing, and docs injury to Venice. The exchange has a respectable appearance. The road from Ancona leads through a pleasant country on the shores of the Adriatic, and passes through several towns. Pesaro, the ancient Pisaurum, is situated in the duchy of Urbino. In the year of Rome 5()8, one hundred and eighty-four years before Christ, the Romans sent a colony to this place. The river on which it was built was formerly railed Pisaurus, now La Foglia. The town stands on the shore, but its port will only, admit small craft; therefore its trade is not cotisP I ble. It, however, contains about ten tho five hundred inhabitants. i»»sanil| 4 The province of Romagna begins at Catnji which is the first post after Pesaro. This nl J was 90 called from the Catholic Bishops uk met here, at the time that the council was U in Rimini, A. I). 3li9, because ^heywcredij satisfied with that assembly; in which it had first appeared as if the Arians would have niainJ tained their superiority. As this council waJ called by the emperor Constans, who fiuoiirel the Arians, four hundred bishops came to it rron the west; who, contrary to the liopes of tin f^j peror, declared in favour of the council ofNjfJ Rimini was formerly called Ariniiniiin; andiii founding is ascribed to the Unibri, a people oh uncertain origin. The Sonones were once iJ possessioD of it; but they were expelled hvllid northern Umbri two hundred and cighty-niiu years before Christ. On the road between Catolica and Rimmj stands the little town of San Marino, situatn upon a high mountain. This sninll free std would be more celebrated than great niifioni] were virtue and innocence, rather thuji the splen, dour of vi'c', the admiration of men. Likettiil little Swiss republic of Gersau, its whole p^j sessions consist of a single mountain. The iln meter of its territory is a German mile. builder, who came from Dalmatia in the bej ginning of the sixth century, continued to laboui thirty years at the rebuilding of Rimini; afld^ which he retired, and lived as a hermit on tlil mountain. But, greatly as he desired repose, tlJ fame of his sanctity attracted young people him, and a princess gave him the mountain a present, on which he here founded a lidlj free state. As the residence of its citizens \vj| founded on a rock, so did he lay the basis of I artless dignified code on the Evangelists. Tbj constitution of the republic is very simple: eati house sends a deputy to the great assenibl) nftbi citizens: the executive power resides in thecoiii| cil of sixty, one half of which is chosen from I nobles: a majority of two-thirds is reciiiircdbel fore a conuiusive vote can pass: every tw months the council choose two eapitaiii, vhuaij in miniature what the consuls were at Rome: in judge and the physician must be both strangcn who are elected once in three years. The inop >3 not considerj i^ut ten thoiisanj :'gin8af Catolicjl ^["0 This placj ic Rishops, „hJ council was licl| Uiey were disl 1 which it had 2 ^•ould have niaiJ this council waJ js, who fuvoiirej )9 came to it frot hopes of th(f|]J ! roiincil ofNjcf, krimiiuun;andiL obri, a people oi les were once id ! expelled hvtliJ and ciglit/-nin )lica and Rimm Marino, situatu ( small free III great nationj cr (haji the spb f men. Likel I, its whole po intain. The dia, erman mile. matia in the bel mtinued to laboit of Rimini; afltj I a hermit on tin lesircd repose, llij young people the mountain founded a litllj its citizens n y the hasis of I ijvangclisls. Tb lery simple: eatl at assenibl) of th sides in thecuiiq s chosen froinlh js is required bd pass: every [v eapitaiii, vhoi ere at Ronie: )c both .strangen ;ars. The pt'oiilj sm^ I M-i r . >1i1 /);»!l i CF.UMANV, KVVITZIKI.ANI), IPALY, AND SILllY. ^Vi fc,a Marino are so attentive to tlie ediiciitidn ftlitir cliildriMJ lliat tlicy liold llu; ollire of IhDoliiiastcr in great rrspcct. Tliey liaxe only »n,i(le war. In the tit'teeulh ceiifiii ,„„k part ^vilh pope PiUs H. ap:a,n.t hiiri Mahiusla, lord of llimiiu. llie poj.e lev still cnjo V, Jie'siiiipl'^"''y of their manners. iTlic „rlii)oliiiastcr m g nude war. In the titteeulh ceiifiiry tliey Sit!:ismiind iMihiU'sla, I'"" "• *»"•"■"• '■"- i'"i"- 'Jiitde llien) a prf-sot of four fortresses, but thev re- L J j„ enlarge their territoiles. In 17 it) some L'icoiitents invited pop^ Clement XII. to take I ossessioo of the town, and be sent the cardinal Albcronito make enquiries whether the majority ihc people were inclined to renounce their tpi,(l„ii), Alberoni'truly informed him that only lurtof ll"'"' 1'"" '*")' s*'*"'" inclination, and iho fciiiio was just enough to leave thein in the nu- Liurbed enjoyment of thei"- liberties, which Celebrated for their etjuity and they do.spi.se de;for they do not honour wealth, but chiefly L|,«ijt on the produce of their lands; which, lllifliiirli ilio mountain is frequently covered with Ly tiir three months, still produce generous fine .111(1 excellent fruits. • lulls near Bologna arc covered with rv houses, gardens, and small groves, liiliii'iM' them a charming appearance. It is niiirkablc that the Appeiinines, from Spoleto id lolipno, divide Italy int(» t^o distinct iiiitrios; I'ppor and Lower. Refore you come l.ordto the country is flat. The plains begin Riiiiiiii, iii-.;! extend through all Lombardy, the loot of the towering Alps. As the country laIl;H'^ so do the physiognomies and eutiro ni> of tlie, people change; though the differ- 6! are not verv distinct till you come to the irniansidf of IJologna; and indeed, till you ive at that city, you always see a link of asiiiti; woody hills on the left. In like manner cattle begin to diH'er, both in kind and colour, ni the cattle of the southern provinces. They no longer of so light a grey, but some of m are red, and m«)st of them of a mixed our. The swine, whiih through all lower middle Italy aro blackf, are in these provinces The men have less animation ; and, as the islrciuns of life are here less glowing, they re Ircqiiently indulge themselves in the use of lie. IJctwccn Bologna and Ferrara there arc liills, iniu'h less mountains. Strengthened lied by the fat soil, both man and beast here |;in toiiiiNo less of the tire of the soutbj and loi. II. No. CI somewhat more of northern phlegm, or of north- ern thought. Padua, which the Italians pronounce Padova, was foruierly called Patavrum, and is one of the most ancient towns of Italy. Viiirij ascribes its origin to the Trojan hero, Antt'iior; who, uc- cordi')g to tradition, came to Italy after the de- struction of Troy. Padua was formerly moro populous than it is at present, but it now con- tains about forty thousand souls. This town boasts of being the nursing mother and tutoress of the proud Venice, to which young city it sent magistrates and judges, at the time when, laying its foundations on the little islands where it stands, it ottered a secure retreat to the numerous Italians who lied from the desolating Attila. lu the doi.stcr of the church of St. Augustin many protestants are buried, and monuments are erect- ed to their memory even in the portico. The university of Padua was founded by Frederic II. in l'^'2'i, and became so famous that students were sent thither from all parts of Europe. The great Galileo here taught geometry; and th- number of students in former times consisted of eighteen thousand, but there are not now above six hundred. At the distance of five Italian miles from Venice you come to the open sea, where that magnificent city seems to swim and rise out of the wateis. The prospect is unique in its kind. The appearance of the city, when passing through the canals, is still more singular. The houses stand upon piles, over which the waves flow. Some rows of houses are separated by a quay from the canals, or rather from the small arms of the sea, which form the islands. Others stand immediately in the water, which washci the stone steps up which you ascend from the canals to tlie houses. These houses have back doors into narrow streets ; by which, aided by bridges, all parts of the city are made accessible to foot passengers. The canals are covered with gon- gole, each of which is rowed by a man. These gondole must all be black; and in the middle they have eadi a small canopy, which must not be covered with any other stufl' but black cloth : Hence they have a gloomy appearance. Being long and small, they skim lightly along in .so rapid a manner that, though cautiously managed, at first they terrify strangers. The palace of the doge, or duke, is called II Palazzo di San Marco, ; 1 > /-t: i B''!^ rll ■ f i .;? < jj .. 1 ':\i r^ : X in 448 ST'"»T.BF.RG'S TRAVELS THHOUG!! .... ....^ — - — ^-- ^ -- — ^— in vk'hich are halls fur various ^>ur|)osp3. f,nh of vhich is einbclliahcd with |)iiintin<'-< of the Venetian school. The church of St. Mark is built in the place of that name; the fantastic architecture of which has imparted i^onit Jilng of a character of greatness to it. Facing the church in this place are five large arcades, over the center one of which four gilded horses are ulaced, which the Venetians, in the beginning of the thirteenth century, under the command of their great doge Dandulo, with the aid of the French, brought from Constanlinopio, flftcr taking that city, and placed them in Venice. They had bron sent from Rome to Constantinople by Con- tantine the Great, and had ornamenled the triumphal arches first of Nero, and then of Trajan. The place of St. Mark, which properly consists of two places. La Piazza and La Piazzetta, or the Place and the Little Placcription: " Ut sacra a;stuaria, Urbiset Libertatis f^edes, perpetuum conserventur, colosseas moles * II may appear eomewliaf strange that the dialect of tlic gondoliers (|)eopl«f that row fhe^^'Hidrile) should l)ediiri;reiit IriMn that of the V'onelians, b'lt it i- a fact: even. Tasso's ex solido niarinore contra mare posuoro Ci'mtn Aquaruni. — Anno saliitis MDCCLl— Ah . i coudita iAICCCXXX." That is, ''The C?. servators of the Waters have erected Ibis colossi rampart of solid marble, to oppose the sea and f ever preserve the sacred shallows, the seat of th ('itv and of Freedom. ^ — In the year of rcdriuniin MDCCLL— From the founding of n,,' ' MCCCXX.X." Count Stolberg^ moasured 7 length of this stone pier, as far as it is completed and coiMited three tliousaml six himdred ant twenty paces, or .steps. The population o| "Venice is estimated at a hundred and sixty lliou sand souls, and the number of people in its wholi territories at two millions and a half. The duchy of Stiria is well cultivated; (hoi habitants of which, though they rather rcspinbJi the people of Geruiaoy than of Caniiola, arp\ very distinctly divided into Vandals and Ger| mans, the numbers of the latter heiiiij dt ili( most considerable. The towns and \i||ae stiites of the country consist of the clergy, lords, knigh'is, and burgesses; and the diets, when summoned by the regency are held at Brunn. It is divided into six circles, each of which has it» captain, and it contributes about one-third of what is exacted from Bohemia. The bishop of Olmutz is at the head of the ecclesiastics of tbi« country; and the supreme ecclesiastical juris* diction, under the bishop, is vested in a con- sistory. The commerce of this country is incon- siderable: of that which tliey enjoy, Brunn has the principal part. At Iglau and Trebitz are nuinufactures of cloth, paper, and gunpowder. The inhabitants io general are open-hearted, not easy to be provoked or pacified, obedient to their masters, and true to their promises; but credulous of old prophecies, and much addicted ' to I,' .!,. %\ t ■■! I -^ P r ^ i t i4 1 I.: h 1, ■' ■ fl ■ ; r ' ,' 1,.; I,; ■ fell r ■''!*« ;l .1 4.S0 ;'rOURNl<;V IN MonwiA ANn nOlHMIA, (o drinking. The boors, iiit'ecd, upon the river llunuli, are suid to lie a lliievish, iinpolislied, brutiil race. The sciences now begin to lift up (heir lieads a little among the Moravians, the iniiverKity of Ohuiilz having been gre:ili_y improved. Vienna is on the Sonlh side of the river Da- nube, and opposite to it on tln( North side is IHntzersdorf. From Vienna to Misehaii in Mo- ravia is f;;rt_y-five miles; from Miseliau to Adsterlitz the distance is seventeen miles, and from Aiistcrbtz. on the same road, to Olniiit/ is thirty miles, so that from A ienna to Olmutz the distance is eip:htv-t\vo miles. This lader town is the ciijntal of Moravia. The toun, thougii small is very neat, strong, and populous. * It stands on the river Morawa, over v^hiih is a large bridge; and bv its navigation the inha- bitants carry on a good trade with its southern neighbours, particularly Hungary and Austria. The public buildings are very handsome. Its university has been mentioned above. It is the see of a bishop, and St. ('yril, who liviwl about the year 8S0 was its bishop. Here is an abbey .so advantageously situatc-d for the defence of the town that it is fortified and garrisoned. In 1741 tlie king of Prussia took it with its whole garrison. In July 17.58 he besieged it again; end when on the eve of taking it he was obliged to raise the siege, to go and meet the Russian army, which was ad\ancing against him, Rrinn, or Brunn, is ten miles West of Auster- litz, thirty S. W. of Olmutz, and sixty N. of Yieuna. Altliough this town be situated in Moravia, forty-five miles from the borders of Bohemia, yet it is a dependency of Bohemia, which has occasioned some geographers to mis- take it for a part of the latter kingdom. It stands near the confluence of the Schwartz and the Zwittau, is a pretty large well built town, 'but is not very populous. The inhabitants carry on a great deal of trade. It has four gates, a cathedral, and several other churches, several "convents, an episcopal paiaee, provincial house, "and .ithcr public struetiircs. The di^;ts of Mo^- ravia are held in the provincial house. It is de- fended by a castle built on Spielberg Hill, which is encompassed by a doubls wall and two ditches. In 1645 this place held out bravely against the Swedes. • Znaiin is thirty-five miles S. W. of Brunn, and fortv N. by W. of Vienna, li ,» , . J place, and has a Inntlsome castle, w lii,.|, • "|( old, and in which tjicre are said to be "J numb, r of Pa^an aiiliijuities. lis sitnatj,*';"' the river Taye. which falls into (i,(, ;yj ^ " about twentv- live miles above Iho place 11?'^ (hat river lalls into (he iJanube. " TIk; huge, strong, and well built town of H, isthirty-scvcii nules N. W . oi ZnuJui, spv(.|,t\'!|' , miles W. by S. of Olmutz, and sex^nly-ioJi. J of V ienna. It lies on a river of the siime nainJ and i.s siiufilcd on thcconlines of lloliuiuiii, intiJ ro.id to Hungary, and is therefore miidi U quented. In the Hussite war this place ()|),i,im| ly adhered to the side of the Pope, butwasil* lirst town of Moravia subject to Holieiniinvi,,,!] received the Augsburg confession of laitli, |] 161rJ it surrendered to the Swedes, who, to rriida the town tiie more tenable, burnt down its Im suburbs, and deVendcd it a whole year ajjiijnsi! the emperor's forces, and even repulsed then, At other times it was alternately taken aiiij « taken in the wars between Bohemia and GciniainJ Its principal trade is in beer and coarse woollJ cloth. 1 Teltsich is ten miles S -xlau ; it is a prettJ little town, is Wi 11 buil., ... populous, ft j near the frontiers of Holi.'mia, and is seated}! the source of the rivei- faye, which passes b3 Znaim, ■ lu; BOHEMIA is, it must be confessed, one ol the best countries in the Austrian dominions audi next to Hungary, it yields a greater revenue to| the crow n. It is boiuided by Saxonv and hmM on the N. by Sih'sia on the N. K. and 11. bvl Moravia on the E. and S. E. bv Austria on tbi) 8. and by Bavaria on the VV. It is about a liuiJ dred and seventy miles from N. to S. and about! two hundred and twenty miles from E. to W. In Bohemia are many mines which eontainl gold, silver, copper, iron, tin, lead, snipliiij and nitre. In some of its rivers (the |)riiu'ipal of which are, the Elbe, the Muldaw, the Cj- burz, the Egra, and the Sazawa, ) is found gold! sand. Here are several salt pits; but the iuh?>| bitants arc chiefly supplied with that article froml Misnia, It was formerly a part of the lIvrraniaDl Forest, which, though now replaced with a tutl many towns and villages, yet has still fofestiaiii|| wuudil ^ JOURNEY IN MORAVIA AND BOHEMIA. 451 ''!<<'wii„fi,i J f'e 8an.e i,aJ •{"lit'iiiia, iinj •-•''ore iiiiiil, |J <•!"•. butwasiij on of lailh, |] nt down its largJ 'e .year apmi^ •■«l"»ls«l then. !-').>' taken una m liaaiulGcrinanl tl coarse wooll J f»u ; if. is a preiJ |)0|H||ous. It iind is seated a| wijiili passes I onfessed, one 08 1 doniiiiioiij, aih,,, ealor revenue xoiiv and Im^ ^' K. and [•:, |)v| V Austria on tbJ t is nbodt aliuiJ • to a. and about! oil) E. to W. which contain! lead, siilpliiirj I (the |)riiu'ipi|[ iildaw, the Cj- , ) is found gold! ; but the iiiliii. that article fromj f thcllvrcaniaol iced with atutl still lofestianll Jtwell stocked with deer, wild beasts, and .1 In general the soil is ^lod, and the land itbie though barren and sandy in some parts. I not* only yields corn, birt plenty of saftVon, Vjl, latter, however, is not so good in quality ithat which is produced in some other parts of Europe. The gardens and orchards yield ikundatitly more than is snHicicnt for the con- Mfflplion of the inhabitants; they therefore ex- jgfl t considerable part. Vim-yards are not Uh cultivated here, because the wine will not . They have beer, both brown and white, mh is l>'S'''y valued, and great quantities of Jire exported. fhc inhabitants of Bohemia are a mixture of tlavonians, (those living in villaejes being Haves,) and of Germans. The inhabitants of Lfown ttre not fond of arms, arts, or trade; jut rather prefer an indolent life. They arc in reneral large bodied and well set, subtle, conra- us, and true to their word: but the com- mon sort, arc rather thievish, both in the country J even in the towns after sun-set. Their Uirjnal lanp;M!t^ is the Sclavonian, which \\ s oktd upon to be so copious and sweet, tliat jcir lawgivers ordered its true orthography and [roiiiincialion to be inviolably preserved ; but L$t people of fashion, through their 1nter- Mfjc wi'h the court of Vienna, speak High jjutth, which the common people have now in- jfrmixcd with their own language. A few of e Hussites still subsist in Kohcinia, but they ;eep themselves very close, and the government tins to take no notice of them. The Jews have open toleration; but the most predominant jeligion is that of the church of Rome. the protectant religion had very early footing this country. They agreed principally with [.ulher in doctrine and discipline; but the Ijreadful persecutions which they suffered, lirough the instigation of several popes, occa- loned the Bohemian war in KilS, when the Irotestants chose Frederic V. elector palatine, pr their king; but he being defeated at the altle of Prague in 1620, they were shockingly «rsecuted and at length banished in 1639; since [bich time their worship was not tolerated in pemia till 1782, when the emperor Joseph tanted a general toleration to all persuasions. Jince l()39 the Bohemians have been governed lery despotically by the house gf Austria. The.y Vol. n. No. CI. have still only the shadow of liberty among them, their states meeting every year at Wag^c, vvhen they seldom refuxt the whole of the emperor' demands ; for they dread his resentment if they were to make the least dcioiir. The annual revenue of Bohemia to the house of Austria amounts to nearly a million of pounds sterling. The wealth and grandeur of the no- bility, with the extreme poverty and uluvery of the peasants can hardly b<; imagined. The gene- rality of the nobility and gentrydespisc prefer- ments out of their own country; yet they travel into Franco or Italy, but not without express leave from the emperor, under the penalty of forfeiting their estates. When they come of age they are obliged to take the oath of tidelity tQ the king. Many of the Bohemians have a talent for music, esperially the hunter's horn; and t!iere is no village where the mass is not sung in concert. The aflairs of Bohemia are directed by a chan- cellor, who has a vice-chancellor under him, with several assessors and counsellors. Prague, the capital of Bohemia, is 160 miles N. \V. of Vienna. 130 W. by N. of Olmutz, and 80 S. by E. of Dresden. This town is situ- ated in a pleasant and fruitful country, amidst gardens and fine fields, surrounded with palaces and pleasure houses, on the river Muldaw, which passing through it divides it into two parts. Prague is one of the largest cities in Europe, being about fifteen miles in circuit, and next to London> Paris, and Constantinople, is said to be the most populous. It consists of three towns, the Old, the New, and the Little Town. It has a hun- dred churches, besides nine Jewish synagogues, and a famous university, which stands in the old town, and was founded in 1358, by the emperor Charles IV. It is the only one in Bohemia, and has generally about one thousand four hundred students. Here are several monasteries and col- leges, of which there is a very magnificent one which belons:ed to the Jesuits before their ex- pulsion. near the bridge, from the belfry of whose church there is the best prospect of the city. On a rising ground, called Ratschin Mill, is a magnificent palace of the emperor; and here is the cathedral of St. Viet. The city is the see of an archbishop. Here are Bohemian crystals, which bear a fine polish, and are set in oar- pendants^ rings, &c. but they are priucip-ally lif I' ^ m ' . i m ?!^:«;|,l .'i Y used *5'J JOURNEY IN MORAVIA AND BOHEMIA, used for lustres and drinking glasses, which are vended all over Europe. Koningratz is 68 miles E. of Prague, and is u large town on the river Elbe., near its coniluence with the Orlitz. It has its name from boing tuc appendage of the queen», and their place of re- sidence when widows. It is the principal town of a circle ot the same nan.'e ; ; nd is the sec of a bishop, who is suffragan to the archbishop of Prague, Gl&tz is thirty-eight miles N. E. of Koning- ratz, on the confines of Silesia; it is seated on the river Mira, which runs into the Oder. Here is a castle on i rock which is almost inaccessible; it surrendered, however, to the king of Prussia in 1742, and the city, together with the county of tiie same name, was ceded to that monarch at the treaty of Breslau. Its trade is in silver ore, iron, timber, coals, venison, cattle, butter, and cheese. The groat church of Glatz was fonnorly a pagan temple. The towji ii;;: good suburbs, and a good town ho'.:oe, ''ut the j;!:ice sull'ered much in the civil wars of Rohemia. ' E'>Ta is \Qi) milrs VV. of Prague, on tiiC con- fines of Bohemia, and on a river of the sane name, wliich falls into tlio Elbe near Lcntmiritz. It is the capital of a circle of the same name, and has a double wall towards the river, and in other parts a triple one, with a strong caM.le ij March 1742 the P'rench took the ^av.i; bytJ September 1743 they surrendered it to iif Austrians. In the neighbourhoo'l are minei silver and copper, with a purgativ; spa, fam 1 for curing distempers of the e^'es, ears, oroth!! parti* of tlie head. Here the channel of the rivd is broad and deep, bearing large ves»>ls abounding with fish. Tabor is 45 miles S. of Prague, and III N. W. of Vienna. The town is not larpe hi it is a strong place. It was fortified by ocnerj Zisca, vho was at the head o'i the Hussites wh had their head quarters .it t'.iis place. It js^jt-, on a hill, and ha« a double waM, toweri, an bastions. Budweis is 30 miles S. of Tabor, and 95 N, d by W. of Vienna. It is seated on the Muldw At this place the Austrians defeated the FrcncI and Bavarians in 1741; but in 1744 it wasiakd by the Prussians. | Continiung the same road to the southwanj at the distance of twenty-five miles is RoseiiberJ which is likewise built on the banks of tb Muldavv. It is a place of some strength, tlioiid not very formidable; and the town is not \m It might, however, be converted into a placet importance, with but little trouble or cxpciice. General Descriptic ?t.i --■'.I' THE L\Y) OF STOLUERG S TRAVELS IN GERMANY. . ,.tr*'t:l '. ■,.-■'■ •■■ •/*'. •' ■'.■ ; . j!::l >>•;'♦ *)' <■>!-. ■:^r> |ui:tui, but -.iiit very s OHg: ihc biiiiks ot^ the iSt-mliii, in Sclavonia ^Igrade, iu Scrvia, ) fc \ '.^, TRAVELS IN " '/-''■■ UPPER AND LOWER HUNGARY, TRANSYLVANIA, SCLAVONIA, CROATIA, AND MORLACHIA. .H BY JEn^JV riCTOIKE -DUTEJVS, EMil^EER. in 180G. ' r ■^1"." SECTION I. '«..»■ General Description of Hu/ngarif — Account of Presburg, Altenburg, Raab, and other '^.r principal Towns. ^HE greater pa' t of the kingdom of Hungary was anciently called Punnonias. It received tnaaeof H'ingary from the Huns^ a Scythian tTariat .;:tion, who subdued it in the fourth mdirv. This country, inclulinff Transylvania, s between 16 and 27 degrees of East longitude, y 44 degrees 40 minutes and 49 degrees 20 \m\ti of North latitude. It is bounded on le North by the mountains of Ciupack, (gene- ]j|y called the Carpathian Mount<>ins, ) which Ipanite it from Poland ; by Croatia, Sclavonia, Friim which it is separated by the river Drave) nvia, and Walachia on the South; by Mo- Ivia, Austria, and Stiria on the West; and on ie East hy Turkey in Europe. It is divided llu Upper and Lower Hungary, the former ling that part which lies towards the east, Itvond the river Theiss; the latter that which stowirds the West of that river. Hungary Kliidinir Transylvania is four hundred ant' Jfly miles long, and three hundred and Oity load. jTlie northern parts of the kingdom are moun- jinmis and barren, but heiilthy; the southern krts, on the contrary, are lo; el, and exceedingly luill'ul, bu'. •■iui very salubrious. The country m^ die banks ol* the Danube, from Presburg Scmlin, in Sclavonia, (which is oppo>«ite to tigrade, iuServia, ) for upv^ards of three hun- * It is said to be about one ■ Iv ■■ '■ 4-5 t DUTEN'S TRAVELS IN HUNGARY, Danube, the Dravc, the Theiss, tjie Waag, the (iran, the Temes, and the Raab, which are all well stocked with fish. There are several lakes in this country, the principal of which are, the Ncusidlcr, (or Lake Pelso, ) the Lake Balaton, ( or Flatten, ) and the Palitsher See, near Zegedin. The inhabitants are a mixture of the descend- ants of the ancient Huns, Sclavonians, Cumani^ Germans, Walachians, Greeks, Jews, Turks, and a wandering people called Zigduns, said to be of uncertain origin, but probably the same as those called Gipsies. The Hungarians are said to be of a sanguine choleric temper, and some- what fierce, cruel, proud, and revengeful. They have been always reckoned good soldiers, being much more inclined to arms, martial ex- ercises, and hunting, than to arts, learning, trade, or agriculture. The nobility affect great pomp and magnificence, and are much addicted to feasting and carousing. The men in general are strong and well proportioned. They shave Ihcir beardii, but leave whiskers on the upper lip, wearing fur caps on their heads, a close bodied coat girt with a sush, with a short cloak or mantle over all, so contrived as to be buckled under the arm, and leave the right hand at liberty. Their horse soldiers are called hussars, and their foot heyduks. The former wear a broad sword or scymetar, and carry a hatchet or battle axe. Their horses .ire fleet, but not so large as the German horses, and therefore they stand up in their short stirrups when they strike. Roth horse and foot are excellent militia, very good at a pursuit, or ravaging and plundering a country, but are not equal to regular troops in a pitched battle. The women, when they go abroad, wear short cloaks and i veil. There are five languages spoken in this coun- try, viz. the Hungarian, which, like the people, is of Scythian origin, and has little or no alBnity with any European tongue; the German, the Scliivonian, the Walachian, and the Latin. The last is spoken, not only by the better sort of people, but also by the plebeians, though very corruptly. The people called Zigduns have also a particular jargon. Christianity was planted in Hungary in the ninth and tenth centuries. In tue sixteenth the Reformation made a great progress in it; but at present, tlinuu;li tne Roman Catholics hardly make a fuurth part of the inhabitants, their religion is predominant, the Protestants cnjoylna; onlv « I J ration. Besides several sects of Protestants 1 J are also great numbers of the Greek church'"!! Jews; these last pay double taxes of all ki^ij Here are likewise a great many Turks, narl" J larly in the parts which border upon Turk | and in some of the large towns, where arcsevcr!| mosques. Besides collegrs and convents tl> are several universities belonging to the nartii of the church of Rome; and the Lulhcraiisam Calvinists have their gymuasi^iuns and schoojj but they are under certain restrictions. 1 As to the trade of this country, it is almost wholJ in the hands of the Greeks and Jews,. The eil ports consist chiefly of wine, horses, cattle, nietaU minerals, saffron, wool, and leather. Hunearj in particular furnishes Austria and bouring countries west of it, with the iicigb exporter tj ^„i,..w.^. ..^a- w. .., „.... large drori of cattle, as well as a variety of wines, ofwhid those of Tokay are reckoned the best. Tl principal manufactures are those uf cnppei .brass, iron, and other hard wares. Grei quantities of brass and iron arc wrought and unwrought. Hungary at first, like most other countrki was divided into many little principalities ai states, which were at length united under ( head, who had the title of duke. The last these dukes was Geysa, who becoming proselyte to Christianity, was bapfi/ed; afli which he resigned the government to his Stephen, who took the title of king, in theyi 1000. But as the throne w.':<« tilled Ityclcriioi though generally out of the ;'iime family, disposal of the crown was disputed between tl Turkish and German emperors for nearly t»i hundred years; and after the year 1527, win Ferdinand, archduke of Austria, was advaiio to the throne, the Austrians found means toil fliicnce the elections in such a manner, u keep the crown in their family till lOH?', wl it was settled hereditarily on their heir.^ mali and now, in consequence of an act made bvtl diet at Presburg, in 172J, in case of the t'ailui of l^eirs male it is to descend to females. The states of tlie kingdom consist of the p lates, the barons, the gentry, and the royal fr towns. To the first class belong two arr.hbisho™ about a dozen bishops, and nearly as manyal hots and provohts. To the second, the stsdl holder or palatinate, who represent!; the kii ^ court Judge, yi», Croatia, a Lees «'« ^^^ *^°' leause tliey beloi ^jtadtholder of tr, the cup be* ijld, the master o |,i„,'tlie captain J (he grand mn pedtlicg'ca*''*' ,nsor counts an -long the gentrj Lors, and othef Ltbe fourth ohw Lhidi are not su iBiBcdiately of th< Ijldof the archh ^ privileg;cs as Urnion people I i(Ke lands vbey 1 , the crown, th ,tryi The ordmary re amouat to ai: I im the mines, d works, conti jrtiliiatioii* and [ii on the frontieri •eit'expetiee to 'isily bring intq leo, rq^ulars an rved, th«y are If there are fift IV, and the sevi irniih the remain Presburg is th ■feuded by a iated on a hill, lorn is kept. T ides here, and h in[i;iiig to his pi lusive of the llcasant well bi lany Italian mer lurg lias suffer ilainities, of wli If the city's fiv( ir sallies in cas illuwing inscrip liptutn divisui liiigdom divided Vol, II. No. UPPER AND tOWER HUNGARY, «cc; ♦55 court Judg®' *''® ^^^ *"^ viceroy of Mor- jj Croatia^ and Sclavonia, ( for tlicse pro- ' ,,g now considered as^a part of Hungary, use tliey beloneto the emperor of Austria; ) .stadtholder of Transylvania; the ^reat trea- L .r the cup bearer, the steward of the house- Id the master of the horsL', the lord chaiubiT- I the captaiti of the yeomen of the guards, the grand iriarshal of the courts, M'ho are 1 the great barons, together with the inferior or counts and barons. -To the third clasa one the gentry> some of whom have noble lors, and others only tho privileges oi' nobles, (be fourth class beloncf tlw? royal freo towns, jiich are not subject' to the counts, but liold iiBcdiately of tile king. The gentry alsit, who ill! of the archbishops, a;;.! bisliopp, tiavc the iepriviic^;cs as tho iiuitgtarian nobility. The lUDion peop'le' are vassal^ to tht! lords, on (Kse lands ihey live, whether th(anube and Kabnilz> by tho waters of vliith it is surrounded, forming also the island of Sclaitt It is flefended by seven large bastions. ;iiid iuur (avulicr^ and mounts^ which overloc thorn, has two bridges over the branches of tin- river, and some antique arms in Iw country round it is chara- only coi lajuled by a neighbouring hill, that may I)' ipped and easily blown up. In an open in at a little distance is a watch tower, from which the approach of an enemy may be seen a great way. Odenburg, which is the principal town of (he county of tlie same name, is about .50 miles W. of Raab, and Sii 8. VV. of Ptesburg. Thii 5 Z royal its puign, and magazine. 456 OUTF.N'S TRAVKLS IN ToytA free (own in likewise called Sopron, and is said to be one of the best in Hungrary. Its in- habitants make excellent wine. Biida, or (as it is called by the inbalnitants) Ofen, 115 miles E. by S. of Vienna, 82 S. E. of Presburg, and 190 N. by W. of IJcIgriide, is on the west bank of the Daiuibc. This town is also called New Buda, or Ofcn; the remains of Alt O fen are in the plain extending from the suburbs of Buda, be- tween the mountains of Pilis and the Da-ubc. Alt Ofjn is at present but a mean place, about which are vait heaps of ruins, where remains of Romi:n antiquities arc still found. New Buda is a , royal free city, well fortified, and has a castle which many suppose to be nearly impreg- nable. The houses are tolerably handsome, being most of ibem built with square stones. The lower city, or Jews' town, extends, like suburbs, from the upper city to the Danube. The upper takes up all the declivity of a moun- tain, and is fortified with good walls, which have towers at certain distances. The castle, which is at, the extremity of the hill, and com- mands the greatest part of it, is surrounded with a very deep ditch, and defended by an old fashioned tower, with the addition of new forti- lications. Theie is also a suburb, enclosed with hedges, after the Hungarian manner. The most sumptuous structures now are tlic caravanserais, the mosques, bridges, and baths. These last are supposed to be the finest in Europe, for the magnificence of their building and for plenty of water. Some of the springs arc used for bathing and drinking; and others are so hot that they cannot be used without an admixture of cold water. The Danube here is about three-quarters of a mile wide, and there is a bridge of boats between this city and Pest, consisting of sixty- three large pontoons, Tlie adjacent country is fruitful and pleasant, producing rich wines. * Tli'i city vVi-vs Mic icsultmcc of thi- kiiies of Hungary till »!.e Turks look il in l6'iC. Ffrdiiiaiul, arciiduke of Austria, recovered it tlicncxt year; but iti I.S'iO the Turks liecame maffers of it again In 1681 tlw; Christians taid fiege to it, but they were obliged to raise it soon afttir, though they had nil nriny of eighty ihouKand men. Two years after tlic Turks lost it again, it being taken by assault in the sight of a numerous army. The booty that the Christians found in it was almost incredible, bceanso the ri<^ inhabitants had lodged their treasure in this city ns a place of safety. However, part of these riches were lost though ID some places they have » juini,,,, flavour, from the impregnation of tiie wall* As Buda is on the western side of ti,.' nube, so is Pest on the eastern, like U and Southwark in England, which n^„ parated by the Thames, i. Pest is the caniuufl county of the same name, is situated Jnaii' plain, and is H-J niilos S. E. of Presbiirff. From Raab to Stuhlweissenburg ig 33 ■. in a S. E. direction, which town i* Tj SO miles S. VV. of Buda. It is a royawj town, and is the capital of a county of the sa name. It stands in a morass formed by the r "d Sarwitz, but is not formidable upon that accouJ It had formerly good works, but these have lom since been demolished. From the town j^o th 1 very broad dams, between which are churcha houses, gardens, and meadows, so that the parts, like suburbs, are more populous thaniN town itself It was some years ago in afloHfjj ing condition; but having several times Hm subject to the horrors of war, it is now inal] dining state. } B^)a is a well inhabited town ot the cotinlJ of Bats, 8b- miles S. of Buda, imd 22 niiles 8, Hajosb. Its situation is on the Daiiuhe, inj very fruitful country, on the eastern side of J river. . From Baja to Apathy is ttbotit 40 aiil«s , a southern direction, through a pleasant countrJ It is a very large village belonging to the territo3 of the Jazyges or Philistes. The district in i neighbourhood is remarkably fertile, ami ml duces an amazing quantity of corn and pasturl Although it only bears the appellation of a J lage, yet it is larger and niord populous thai many towns which are the capitals of countitL It is about two miles E. of the I>dnubc, and l] miles N. E. of Eszeg; the name of whicj latter place is generally spelt Esseck, but it erroneous. in the (ire occasioned by the assault. This lost siege cosiilj Christians a great deal of blood, because thLfc neic llioj in the camp who carried on a secret rorrespondi'tui' »ii| the Till ks. Whei* the spra<^kirr ?aw the crtj on lirii, aJ fwmd he could ivot rclictc it, he beat Ris head against li ground through anger. In I6»7 this city h.id like to liiij fallen into the hands of the Turks again, by iro;i(hci»] Aflir »his the Chri8ti.ins augmented the forlificiiliipm ofiJ town, hich so pleased the pope that he egiitrilnitiiH hundred thonsand crowns toward the exiieiiivs, fori looked upon Buda its the key of Ctiriitondom. Carlowiti irw^'!! UPPER AND LOWr.R IIUNGAKV, dc. 457 f.Tr-Tr-T I (>.MyfHt, or as it is called by the Hungarians, L ,,,« is about 45 railes S. E. of Apathy, and Kmc distance N. W. of Belgrade. This Tjjg strong military town of the district of Lken in Lower Hungary, six miles N. E. of Merfardein, on the ifrestern bank of a small Lr which empties itself into the Danube, at fg^^bere several islands are formed by the LwinKS ^f ^^^ river. This town is rendered inious in history for the peace concluded here j16!)9> between the Turks and the Impsrialists; Ljj jj likewise noted for its red wine, vvhich is fid to be the best in Hungary. fAtsix miles S. W. of Neusaz is Petervurdcin, in the ^southern bank of the Danube, bat in U'wia, of which country it is a frontier town. ihasoti«:n changed its master, being sometimes kbiect to the Turks and sometimes to the Im- ifialiits; for ii, was frequently taken and re- ^g by those powers when at war with each ler. It was dismantled by the Imperialists, I burnt by the Turks, re-fortified by the em- Ror, and made one of the strongest frontier LwDS against Turkey in 1691. In 171G prince Wne obtained a signal victory oyer the Turks its Dciglibourhood. It is at present subject to e emperor of Austria, and is a place of great jfengtb. [Comorra or Coraorn is a royal free town of lOwer Hungary, the capital of (he county of kt name, (which district is inhabited by lungitriaiis, Germans, and Bohemian slavcts, litbsoiuc few Rascians, ) at the eastern extremity I the ialiind of Schutt. It is distant from [tiburg about 46 miles S. E. and about 40 lib N. W. of Buda. In this town i« the court \m of the country, a college, and an academy. I(ar it is an amazingly strong fortress, which is prrounded on the west by a deep ditch full of ^ter, on the south and north by the rivers Wmbe and Waag, whose streams unite tre. The Turks often attacked this place, but King to its great strength were never able to le it. It was destroyed by an earthquake in t()3, but has been since rebuilt. [At 10 miles N. of Comorra is NewhauSel, bich is the principal town of a district of the name. It is J8 miles E. of Prcsburg, and )an important fortress, which gave the Turks great deal of trouble : tlicy, however, took it 1663; but the duke of Lorraine retook it iu 1683. Its situation is a charming one, and the country around it fertile and pleasant. From Comorra to Gran is 24 miles along the banks of the Danube, The fertile county of Gran lies to the east of the county of Raab, and is extremely productive of all the necessaries o. life. The town of Gran is a royal free place, and is situated on the south bank of the Danube, opposite to Barkan, where that river receives the Gran, which latter river has its rise in the Carpathian mountains, which separate Hungary from Poland. It is buiitt in a very fruitful country, which produces great quantities of excellent wine, and was once the metropolis of. the kingdom. It is exceedingly well furtitied, and divided into the Upper and the Lower towns; the latter of which has great command of the Danube. Here is the see of an archbishop, valued before the loss of Newhausel, above-men- tioned, itt three hundred and forty thousand florins per annum; but now it is not reckoned worth more than one hundred thousand. The castle, the archbishop's palace, and Saint Stephen's cathedral, a.-e the principal among its many noble structures. Here are two large towers, one towards Thonesburg, and the other facing the river, which are joined by a wall fortified with divers redoubts, and a ditch nunked with hewn stone, besides a pallisadoed terrace, and four great points like ravelincs; and there is also a strong fort built on St. Thomas's hill. This town has often changed its master, as ha\e many others in this country. In t.~)96the Imperialists took it from the Turks. In the siege of it at that time, Sir Thomas Arundel of Wardour castle, for his signal valour in storming the watch tower, and pulling down the Turkish banner, &c. was created a count of the empire by the emperor Rudolph, and afterwards king James I. made him a baron of England; which honours are still enjoyed by his posterity. The Turks, however, retook it, and kept possession of it till 1683, when, after the defeat of their army before Vienna by John Sobieski, king of Poland, the Imperialists recovered and defended it againit the Turks, who again attacke'J it in 1685, but were entirely defeated by the dtkes of Lorrain« and Bavaria; since which time the house of Austria have remained in possessDo of it. Schemnitz, or Scemniz, is 50 mii'?s N. of Gran, 66 miles N. of Buda, and 72 u'lcs N. E. of Prcsburg* Ri I ♦I'; );> h n t / ,i: ?-i« 4 ;i^v' '' M I' I iiii r I \ 1 ■ . il . 1- 1. i'H A 458 DUTEN'S TRAVELS IN JKZ3= Prcsburg. It is otie of the largest mine towns in Hungary^ and as it is built on a rocky hillj its streets are consequently rendered very uneven. Here are three Lutheran churches, and the town is defended by as many castles, one of which be- ing built in a very lofty situation, serves the purpose of an excellent watch tower. Here are gome of the finest medicinal baths in this part of the world, but the air of the place is not very healthy. The neighbourhood of Scheranitz has been long famous for six rich mines of silver, one of which is in some places very cold, and in others so extremely hot, that 45^ , latter prevailed, and it still belongs to the '" .gf of Austria. Thus the inhabitants of Jf' „ have been frequently compelled to sub- r. II the horrors of war, which certainly lied to reduce it froin its ancient splendor and f jUjcnce, but still it is a consylerable pluVc, Kl if the country should /crnaio at peace will, fthout doubt, recover a part at least of its Irmcr greatness. Ti,i;()niilc9 N. by E. of Kascau is the strong L nival free town of Eperies, on the river |.,., SO miles from the conihies of Poland. !■ Il'jg ,..,j)iial of the gespanchaU or county of i,(ij This town is surrounded with ditches, Ivall. a"'' towers. It is the seat of the highest Lrtiii the circle of the Hither Theiss, and is the Itflfiui academy and college Here was formerly |(i)lle!>iii!U illustre, belonging to the Lutherans, It it is now laid aside. This place has long L, (jiiioiis for ils fair and for its salt mines, Lljiiilariv one of the laffer, out of which pieces [pure salt are said to have been dug of ten Lsaiid pounds weight. It is of several colours. Je wafer of the mines, when boiled, produces lilt which is given to the cattle. Eperies was Vofthe four towns yielded to Hethlem Gabor, L'c of Transylvania, but the Imperialists rc- ivered it again in 1710. ITraversiiig the road to the N. W. from Lrits. at the distance of '28 miles is Ltscliau, which is the capital of the cornty of [m, (vulgarly called Zips,) in Upper Ilun- Irv. It is within 'iO miles of the confines J Poland. Being seated at the top of a hill, Icominaiids a beautiful and extensive prospect. lefowii is handsome, large, and well ibrtilied; lis principally inhabited by Germans, who pro- Is Liitheranism, and who likewise speak the jungarian language. At this place is annually lid a very c neat town, and is noted for a strong castle built for its defence. The inhabitants of this town carry on consider- able manufactures of silk and cloth, and trade owns. 3- 1 he Hungarians, who inhabit that | largely in fruit, of which this part of the coun- iftof tlie country which lies on the frontiers of j try aflibrds great abundance and variety Tbe part of Transylvania inhabited by the ,„ns is divided into five counties, viz. Atland, jiidvnrdenwald, Burdland, Velnland, and Nos- lerlaiid. Till' principal place in the county of Atland is nnaiisladt, which is 30 miles S. E. of eissembcrfr, »»d l^^O miles E. of Temeswaer. rniuiistadt is the capital of Transylvania, and formerly the residence of its prince. It was lied Horinaiisladt from its founder Herman, a , and Cibinium from the river Cibin or n, on which it is seated. It is the see of a Imp, who is suflragan to the archbishop of locza ill Hungary. About it are many tish indsand other pools of water, which render access dittifult, and by. that means, as also strong walls, and several bastions, it is able make a good defenco against an enemy. The lusts are well built and generally slated, and well supplied with water from several inffs; even the river is conveyed through the ts ill canals made for that purpose. The irtsofjiistiee lor the Saxons are held in it, and chief trade of tie inhabitants consists in cloth meal. It received an Imperial garrison in i'. Hermanstadt is a granary for the whole icipality, and by keeping the corn under for many years without damage, they [Thus it appears, that all the iiaiues by which this 1 M designated have nu resemblance io sound to each Agnabet, or Agnctlihi, is about ten miles N. E. of Hermanstadt, on the river llaibach. This is a considerable town, and by some is reckoned one of the principal places of Tran- sylvania; but it does not appear to merit .so high u character. The county of Landvordenwald lies west from Hermanstadt; the only place of note in this county is Millenbach, otherwise called Sebeste, or Zazebes, which is its capital, and was the first built by the Saxons in the county. It lies in a very hollow valley, tolerably secured on the west side by morasses, but open on the other. This place is aboutIG miles \V. <^rom Hermanstadt. The county of Burkland lies E. from Herman- stadt towards the frontiers of Moldavia. Of this county Cronstadt is the capital, which is o3 miles E. of Hermanstadt. This place is called by the Greeks Slephanopolis, by the Italians Corona, but by the natives Brassa*. It is sup- posed to be the Pretoria Augusta of Ptolemy. Cronstadt is surrounded by walls, towers, and ditches, and therefore a place of strength. It has, however, been frequently pillaged, and has greatly sulVered from earthquakes. This town carries on a cousiderablc trade, is the see of a : bishop; has a good college, and is the seatoruii university, which possesses the best library in the country. Not far from Cronstadt is the foreai ot" other. Ilehcc arises the greatest difficulty of recouiilinj; tbe accounts of diffiereut historians aud gcngruphers. Zeidcinvftld. m jtil^ m .1 ' 1 II (1 f :■ H itl 4f?2 DUTEN'S TRAVELS IN Zciilcnwald, which is about ten miles in length, but |)ui't of it is 8o marshy, that the people arc ubli^'ed to travel over it on pinnka. JViergenbnrg is l'2 miles N. W. from Cron- studt; but although it be not a place of much iniportanco, yet the inhabitants carry on a pretty gootl trade with the neighbouring towns and vil- lager. It is situated on the river vVhita or Olt. Kogaras is 'M miles W' . bv N. of Cioiistadt. It is ii small, but well inhabited town, and is likewise situated on the liver Alnta. It is de- feiulfd bv an exceedingly strong lort, which the Turks vainly attempted to nnike themselves misters of in the year KiiJl. The inhabitants of tins town carry on u very good trade with their ijci^hboius The county of Velnland lies N. W. of Ilcr- inanstadt, of whitli Segeswacr, or Schcpsburg, or Sclx'sburg, is the capital. It is 40 miles N. of lloiinansladt, and is seated at the coiillu\ of the ri\ers Ivdkcl and (iiorgcn. It stands on llnr side; of a hill, so that the bouses appear one above another, like an amphitheatre. It is divided into the upjier and the lower town: the former, being seated on a hill, is well fortified; but the latter is more populous, on account of the conveniency of water for their manufactures, ospeciallv the dressing of doth. On the neigh- bouring hills th ic arc excellent vineyards, and upon one of them is a college. Mcgies or Megisward, is 15 miles S. W. of Segeswaer, on the river Kokel. It is situated in a j)lain full of rich vineyards, by reason of which the country about is called Wineland. The church belonging to this town is built on a neighbouring hill, in the nature of a castle, and therefore it is made use of'for the defence of the town. The county of Noswerland lies N. W. from Ilf rmanstadt ; the oidy remarkable place in which is Nasenstadt, which is called by the Germans Bestris. This place is about 48 miles N. W. from Hernianstadt, on the river IJistris, in a spacious plain. The town is very neat, though it is not very large, and is encompassed with hills be ^ring vines. At the distance of about four miles from this place arc the gold mines of lledua, and some gold is frequently found in the samis of the neighbouring rivulets. That part of Transylvania which is inhabited by the Ilungariaus is divided into six counties. which are those of Weissamburg or Albj i i Huniad, Thorda, Doboka, ClauseiiburL/ *. Zatrnar. '"' *'«" Weissemburg, (as the Germans cull jm Alba Julia, (as the Latins ciill it, from 'j„r1 Augusta, mother to Marcus Aureliiis Auto,,; Pius,) or Giula Frierwar, (as it is s \ ^Veissemburg, and (>7 N. W. vi' l!(iiiiaiuiaij This town, which is large and populous, listm ed on the little river Samos, and is (Id'cmlid iJ a castle, good walls, and strong hnlwurks. 1 is a place of considerabh* trade, and is perils the most wealthy of any in Transylvaiiin. ()L the Portina gate is still to be seen an iiiseriiii to the honour of the emperor Trajan. ThebtiiJ called this town Claudiopolis. The 8i)ciiiiai« Lulherans, and ('alvinists have each their placesa worship here, and \\ere in piKssL'ssionofilicQil dral till ItiO'J, «hen it was taken from tlumail given tothe Jesuits, whose collegeandeluirclnjiel in their great zeal had denu^lished. The (owiiisij habited by Saxons and Hungarians, wlioaie prd miscuously permitted to bear olHees. Itistli more frequented, as being «me of the plat cs wlieij the states of Transylvania meet, and where lU prince holds the provincial courts of justiie. TliJ Turks besieged it in vain 1(501, but took it jj l(i03, and it was retaken the same year by ill Imperialists. Prince AbalH besieged it in [m with a large body of Turks; when the govcrnoij though so ill provided with cannon arid aminj nition, that he was obliged to melt the bells ' longing to the churches, held out till relief rived, and the Turks were obliged to raised siege. Neustadt, or Nagybania, the eapilul of I county of Zatmar, on tht; northern border Transylvania, is 6j miles N. by W. of Claused bud IJPPrri ATS'D T.OWKrt nUNGARY, &c. 4(T3 U U * **'^" ''^ importance, it being scat- jiillie riv»'«'"rhood . . , r 1 I • ■q,, p,„vintc ot Trans} Ivania »h dclendod lit , ,„p;jjiiro by naturr; for tlicru arc soveu *"" „,|,icli lead into it from dillercnt partH, *\ j|,gg<, are so lituated as that they may be ■|v (|«i'e»ded against an enemy. The first, on "'•jgof (luiiKary, is where the river Kreiitsch Kcrez runs into it, with so many windings, ' . it must be crossed thirty times. The second, uLre the river Marosh falls into Hnngary, near liua called the Iron Gate, about GO miles W, by N. of Hermaiistadt. The fliirf!, where llie Teraea !sh rnns into Hungary, about a milu N. of Marga. The fourth, is at the Red Tower on thu river Aliita, about si\ miles S. of Jloi^eiilhiir, and Hi miles S. E. of llennanstadt. The fiOli, called Rotza Pass, is 2r> milen li. b} 8. of Cron- stadt, on the frontier of Walliichia, in a placo called Turk-licld. The sixth is tailed Dorgo Pass, and is one mile E. from lllut/a, and ten miles E. by N. from the small town of Itorgo, And the seventh is called Boduer Pass, und is near the N. E. corner of the country, about seven miles N. of Krctshunest. > ' - .,■ '.'.l V SECTION III. ho'lption of Sclnvonia and its prlnefpnl ^HE country of Solavonia formerly comprer hemled all the territories which lie between .Adriatic Sea and the luixinc or Klack Sea; its juage then extending over all the eastern [(ts of Europe;- where it is still very much used. lete countries were conquered by the Sclavi, iTarUr or Scythian nation, in the reign of the tineror Justinian. At present it is confined be> leu the rivers Drave and Danube on the N. J E. and the Save on the S. so that it in bound- iby Lower Hungary on the N. Upper Hungary the E. Bosnia and Scrvia on the S. and atia on the W. It is about 150 miles long lom E. to W. atid bh miles, broad (where videsl) from N. to S. but its mean breadth is «ut SJ miles. Sclavonia is a fine, level, and tiiilful country, producing corn, cattle, and isture; but being a southern frontier against urkey, it has been consequently exposed to the iragcgboth of the Christian and the Ottoman l)op8j BO that it has not been lo productive to government as x might have been expected. be country is well watered by several streams ] rivulets which fall into the Drave, the Da- ^be, and the Save. The air is fine and tem- irate, and the people robust and warlike. boso who inhabit the eastern parts are called isciana. With regard to their religion, tbd ilavonians are partly of the Romish, and partly Jlhc Greek church, but (be former is at present (Vol. H. No. CII. Tfluns — Of Cronffa and Morlachhx, and Particulars lb their principal Vlaccs. the established religion; and conse«jiieiitly, since the country came- luuler the dominion of the hoii.se of Austria it jireatly predominates over the other, which was the established religion while it was under the jurisdiction of the Turks. Sclavonia does not produce above ten thousand pounds sterling to the emperor per annum. In 1746 it was united, by a fresh act, or decree, by Maria Theresa, with the kingdom of Hun- gary. At present it is subdivided into the banats of Sirmi, Verowitz, Walpo, and Posseg; and the gcneralates of Gradiscani, Brodcn, and Pc- trovarra. The Ranat of Posseg is .52 miles long, and 26 miles broad: Pos^ga, or Poshcga, is its capital, and is indeed the metropolis of Sclavonia. It is 190 miles S. by E. from Presburg, and 210 miles S. by E. from Vienna. It stands on the river Otawa, in a very fruitful country. Its fortifications are good; and it contains above a thousand houses, and has a considerable trade. The Turks took it in 1544, and kept possession of it till 1687, when being besieged, they sur- rendered it to the Imperialists, who have been masters of it ever since. Csernak, in the banat of Walpo, is 28 miles N.. of Poshega. It is but a small place, yet its inhabitants carry on a moderate trade, by means of the Walpo, on the south bank of which it ia situated. The Walpo falls into the Dr^vc. 6 n The m ■'! I " (] iaf;; Wi^v 'l.lHl .\' 4(T^ DUTFN'S TRAVFLS IN TIic bnimt of Vcrowitz is hd iuilc!« long, und .'}() ;iiil»'8 broiid. Eszcg, (or Esseck, or Ossek, as il isgoiifiully called,) is 45 luiics E. by N. olPos- licgii, and is situated ou the soulli bunk of tbo riser Diave, about ton miles before that river f.ilN into the Uaniibe. This is a large town, mid is strongly fortified. The most remarkable tliiiig here is a large wooden brid/;e over the Drave and the neighbouring morasses; it is a mile ill icMigtb, and thirty yards broad. It originally consisted of thick planks of oak supported by nine or l.n lai.-c trees in a row between each arrii. It was raised in 1566 by the Turkish emperor Soliinan, wiio had twenty thousand rncn at work upon it. In 1664 count Serini burnt the bridge, but the Turks soon rebuilt it. Ill 1()85 the Hungarians burnt a part of it, and tlic following year they entirely destroyed it by fire. The town has been often taken, and after the battle of Mohatz the Imperialists drove the Turks completely out of it. Here are large caravanserais or inns, for the accommodation of armies, or travellers, which are continually passing iil. (v atia, properly so called, is that part wliif), U Lower Hungary on the N. Sclavonia on (i,g Bosnia on the S. E. Dalmatia on the S. MqJ lacliia on the S. W. (which, however, igireQ rally considered as part of Croatia, and ig calL Maritime Croatia, because it borders on M Adriatic Sea,) and Sliria and Carniolaon the^VI Including Morlaehia, it is about 140 uiilei, jond and 65 miles broad. The Hungarians call iby country Horwnth Orszag, and tic GertnaiJ Crabattvn. , The inhabitants arc descendants froj theStlavi, and were formerly called Kruuti, I'roi which the Greeks formed Crobati. Croatia ] fruitful in corn, wine, oil, and all other cessaries of life; but being a frontier provioci like ScluVoniii, it labours under simiiRr into venieoccs. The inhabitants are of goods(i>(iin valiant, hardy, good soldiers, the liorsemci br cially, M'ho arc so famous, that thev re cnttrj tained' in several of the courts o( (if .anri their horse guards. Their infantry ure uik Uskokes, and are reoaarkably agile in ruoniq up the mountains. Morlaehia, or Maritime Croatia, is separate! from Croatia Proper by a chain of inoiiiilaini The inhabitants are said to be of VV ahtchian eil traction, as i» indicated' by their naiiie; iMorlaJ chia being a contraction of Mauru-Walathi^ that is. Black Walachia. But this is denied bf the Abbe Eortis, who published a vulume ol travels in Dilmatia, (of which country MorliJ chia forms a part. ) He informs us, that tlij origin of Morlaehia is involved in the durkw of barbarous ages, together with that of mmi other nations, resembling tbem so much in r4 toros and language, that thoy may he taken t'oJ one people, dispersed in the vast tracks tVom I Adriatic Sea to the Frozen Ocean. The em'm\ tions of the various tribes of the Sclavi, whoj under the names of Scythians, Geti, (rotlis Huns, Sdavini, Groats, Ayari, and Vaiidali invaded the Roman empire, and particularly! lllyriao proviocea during the decline of thateiuJ pirtl must have strangely p y„;ics of the nations whici LMi perliiips removed thitli If as at uioie remote pcri«)d L|,i,lcr "I" <•'« Ardin'i, Ai tfiaii ppopi" ai>ci*'<»ll.y 8C L probably could not rec^ [iif|)eiirfai"'fi «)» the Romans L an union with foreign LuclvM ill dialect and i Uing to Abhe Fortis, it s* Ljccturc, that many famil Learvbythe irruption at Miz Khan and his succcs L (lejertcd vallies between Liialia. This conjecture Liriiied by the traces of tli lliich are still to be found in IfjIledZara. With regai rilif name, the abbe obsen [tchi generally call themsc mage, Vlassi; a national itige is found in the recorc . thirteenth century. T twerful men, or men of aut jdiiiation of Moro-Vlassi jtchi, a» they are now ca ^int nut the original of the kders on the Adriatic Sea ; \tw different from the othe . coasts, in dialect, dress rtonis, that they seem cleai t original, or at least the Itlled ut such distant period laithey have had time to a their national characte Lrkiibic diversity among t Ives in several districts, pro I difl'crent countries from [ith rt'Sijard to the character Einrormed that ♦'"•y are mi ■ritiiue noighbov rs. The Vnasts of Daliuaiia tell m their avarice and cruelty per of an ancient date; u Joed in later times, they ( Iribed to the corruption ol p to the bad disposition ot I; and though thievish t long them, the abbe inform ly travel securely through 1 I is faithfully escorted and lJPt>F,R AND t.rtwr.n TltJVGAUV, itc. *ff5 u must liavo strangely pfrplexed tlie grw- I ics of *''" niUions wliicli iiihiil)i»(!(l if, hikI •h nerliiM'* removed (hither in tlit> sanio muii- asat III"'*' remote periods of time. The re- iJ,>r of be found in a part of that coiin- icjlled Zara. With regard to the etymology (tilt name, the abbe observes, that the Mor- ibi generally call themselves, fn their own iiagc, Vlassi; a national term, of which no ige is found in the records of Daimatia till thirteenth century. The word signifies iwerful men, or men of authority; and the de- ination of Moro-Vlassi, corruptly Mor- ;chi, a« they are now called, may perhaps lint nut the original of the nation. Murlachia dersfluthe Adriatic Sea; hut the Morlaerhi 40 different from the other inhabitants of the cuastg, in dialect, dress, dispositions, and oms, that they seem clearly to be of a diflier- origiiial, or at least the colonics must have led at such distant periods from each other, Ithey have had time to alter in a great mea- thcir national character. There is also a iiarkiible diversity amonsrthe Morlacchi thcr.s- vcs in several districts, probably on account of different countries from whence they came. itii rt'i:;iird to the character of these people, wc informed that ''"'y are much itijured by their ritiine neighhoi rs. The inhabit ints of the l)r)tz for the boundary, call liuj ciiiiiilry has, since the parti ills now inciirporatt'd into tlie A karpi'llalioii of the kingdoms of lich kingiloiiiN some ancient di|)lu IPuLiiid, and subject to the king IVoL. II. No. CIIL I. ■ »'t V TRAVELS IN POLAND. ■ MY W. COXE, ^, JW. ■ '^ SECTION I. Mmce into Austrian Pcland- \ iiictions—'-'irrival at Cracow •Limits of the dismembered Province- ■ Description of that Cfty — Univcrsitjj- Its Population and Pro ^ Palace — Citadel occupied hil'ie Confederates in the late Troubles — Histort/ of that Transaction — Cathedral — Tombs of sacral Polish Sovereigns. MIE entrance into Austrian Poland is just bevniid Bilitz, after having crossed tlio unlet Bialii, which falls into the Vistula. friiin Bilitz the journey to Cracow is through letirritoiies which the house of Austria secured , itself in the partition before the last. The fctrict claimed by the empress of Germany in krraaiiilVsto is thus described: "All that tract flaiid lying on the riglit side of the Vistula foni Silpsia above Sandoniir to t!ie mouth of the In, and from thence by Frariepole, Zamoisc, I Rubiessow, to the Bog. Prom the Bog the lit^ aro carried along the frontiers of Red jissiato Zabrasupon thebordersof Volhynia and lodoliu; and from Zabras in a straight line to the Inii'pcr, where it receives the rivulet Podhorts, iiiiijiiiasmallslipof Podolia.andlaslly.alongtlie Lidaries separating Podolia from Moldavia*." iTIie importance of this acquisition to the house lA'istria will best appear from the number of ihabitaiits, which, according to the numeration h A ri'iiiarkiiblf circumstance attciulcrt the lakins pos- Isioii (if this district, wliich will shew wi'.h wiiat iinccr. liiviho liiiiits were at first tracc.l. The partition bciin; Idran'oriling to tht' map of Zannoni, the river Podhorts lis taki'ii as the cistern boundary of this disi">'mb(!rfd jotiiKc; l)iit when the; Anstrian commissioiurs visited the |ot. mIrto iiccurdiiig to Zannoni the Podiiorls llowed into [Dnieper, iliey found no river known to the inhabitants Jirh answered to that name. They advanced, therefore. tfroiiiiers stMl more eastwards, and ailoptini? theSebrawce [((ii^hrvtz for the boundary, called it the I'odhorts. This liil (i.iiiilry has, since the partition, chaiifjed it:: name: > mm incorporatHl into the Austrian dominion!) under r|i'IUlioii of the kingdoms of (ilalicia and Lodotueriu, lii'h Itingdonis some ancient diplomes represent as situated iPuljiid, aud subject to the kings of Hungary; thu must IVoL. II. No. CIIL made in 1776, amounted to two millions five hundred and eighty thousand seven hundred -"ud ninety-six. The mountainous parts of Galacia and Lodomeria produce fine pasture; the plains are mostly sandy, but abound in forests, and are fertile in corn. The principal articles of trafldc are cattle, hides, wax, and honey. These coun- tries contain mines of copper, lead iron, and. salt, of which the latter are the mosc valuable. Crossing a narrow slip of Austrian Poland of about S(> miles in length you reach Cracow, leaving on the right hand a chain of Mount Crapack, or the ancient Carpathian Mountains. Tiic country is at first somewhat hilly, but after- wards chiefly plain, covered with forests. The roads are bad, the villages few and wretched be- yond dc-cription; the hovels, all built cf wood, seem full of filth and misery, and every thing wears the appearance of extreme poverty. Th'i Vistula is the limits of the Austrian do- minions, which reach to its southern banks f. ' convincing proof tliat there over existed such kingdoms-, I tliat they depended upon JIungary, and ought, by virtue of ' an hereditary though dorniaut title, to revert to tlie empress as sovereign of Hungary. \\;is derived from the Austrian. I army ; for what peo()le can re.'^ist an argument backed by I two hnndri'd thousand troops, unless they can defend their I side of th;! ipiestion by an equal luimber.' ] + Acconling to the partition treaty, this river was- marked as forming the limits between the Au>^trian anil Polish territories: the house of Austria at (irsi construed the \'istnla to mean the oil channel of that livei now (lr\, called the Old Vistula; and by force of this slraiiiid intc]- pretalioi) included Casiinir in the dismembered inovince; but not long afterwards th»' empress of (ienuauv restored ('asimir to the Poles; and accepted t!io V^istula as it now lluws, fur the buunditry of her dominions. a C Having %' < ;« i- i' ; II 1 il WM ifi'l. S 'ill I U ft' Ir - li' :< . .11 'U! I f I ■ j ''M i; ■ I 468 COXE'S TRAVELS IN POLAND. Having crossed the Vistula by a bridge into Ciisimir, you pass the dry clianncl, teriued the Old . Vistula, by a secor.d bridge, and enter Cracow. Cracow is a curious old town: it was formerly the capital of Poland, where the kings were elected and crowned, and was once almost the center of the Polish dominions, but by the chang^es which have taken place it is now a frontier town. Cracow stands in an extensive plain, watered by the Vistula, which is broad but shallow: the city and its suburbs occupy a vast tract, but are so badly peopled, that they scarcely contain s^ix- teen thousand * inhabitants. The great square in the middle of the town is very spacious, ai>d has several well-built houses, once richly fur- nished and well inhabited, but most of them now either untenanted, or in a state of melancholy decay. Many of the streets are broad and hand- some; but almost every building bears the most striking marks of ruined grandeur: thechorches alone seem to have preserved their original splendour. The devastation of this unfortunate town was begun by the Swedes at tbe commence- ment of the last century, when it was besieged and taken by the Charles XII. ; but the mischiefs it suflered from the ravager of the North were far less destructive than those it experienced during the late dreadful commotions, when it underwent repeated sieges, and was alternately in possession of the Russians and Confederates. The eflTects of cannon, grape, and musket-shot are still discernible on the walls and houses. In a word, Cracow exhibits the remaiits of ancient magnificence, and looks like a great capital in ruins: from the number of fallen and falling houses one would imagine it had lately been sacked, and that the enemy had left it only jesterday. The town is surrounded with high M'alls of bric'k, strengthened by round and square towers of whimsical shapes in the ancient style of fortification: these walls were built by Vcuceslaus * The city, exclusive of (he suburbs, contained in 1778 only eight thousand eight hundred and ninety.four souls. f While speaking of the university of Cracow, it may not be improper to mention, that the art of printing was first introduced into Poland by Ilallcr, who excrcisexl that profession in the city of Cracow; and ono of the earliest books printed by him was the constitutions and statutes compiled by Caslmir the Great, and afterwards augmentNd king of Bohemia during tie sbort renod in «] ' I he reigned over Poland. The universityJ Cracow was founded and endowed byCa' 1 the Great, and improved atid coiiipleicd"hl Ladislaus Jaghellon. The number of stud amount to about six hundred. The iibrar' neither remarkable for the number or raritv ' its books. The university of Cracow Mas f ij merly, and not unjustly, called the mother Polish literature, as it principally siipplJ the other seminaries with professors and men 1 learning; but its lustre was greatly obscured bl the removal of the royal residence to Warsa/ and still more by the late intestine convulsions! The most flourishing period of the univerj was under Sigismund Augustus in the sixleentt century, when several of the German reformei fled from the persecutions of the emperor CharJ V. and found an asylum in this city. Thsf wJ to the world several versions of the sacrd writings, and other theological publicatioa which diJisscd < he reformed religion over gre| part of Poland. Sigisrv.u;id Augustus indet aflbrded protection tc men of learning of alldJ nominations, and extended universal tolerationti every sect of Christians. Towards the southeil part of the town near the Vistula risegasmil euiinence or rock, upon whose topisbuiltta palace, surrounded with brick walls and oil towers, which form a kind of citadel tothetowl This palaceowesits origin to Ladislaus Jaghelloa but little of the ancient structure now appear] as 'he greatest part was demolished by ciiatlJ XII. in 1702, when he r -red this town i triumph after the battle of ' jsow. It has I since repaired: the remains of the old palai consist of a few apartments, which are lef^ i their ancient state as they existed in the rentuil b jfore the last. The walls of the first of tha apartments are decorated with paintings of till and tournaments; and all the rooms in thepalx are of fine dimr nsions. containitig several reinaiij of ancient magnificence, but totally witboij by his successors. I'hc characters are Gothic, the iu which were universally used at the iuvuntion of |irlntinj the great initial letters are wanting, which shows thatibi were probably painted and afterwards worn away, Tl year In which this compilation was printed is not posiliTif known; but its publirvtion was certainly anterior to Uit as it does not cuntaia the statutes pas&cd by John Albertl that year. v furnilut^ I* Thi« palace was formerly th( Masil, who, from the time of I^ »fneil at Crarow. The Polis ifer concerning the time -when tl liiDjed by the Kovcreigns of thi vbable account is, that in 120i I tide, and was crowned at JfiDjl diocese. Ho was succeec ho, ofl'ending the Poles by his' fcnducf, was deposed before icircslaus king of Bohemia, Whtcr of Pi'cmislaus, bric.g e consecrated and crowned Iter flying from his country, a ■lamituua adventures, was at lei It misconduct. Having regainoc p, he was restored, in the li art of hit dominions ; and he r piiscof that monarch in 1305 ^; sonic years without the title W was crowned at Cracow, to ceremony of the coronation |iat for the future his successors cathedral of this city. Sim bland ha?e expressly enjoined t lace of coronation ; and such ackmcnt of the Poles to thi \ COXE'S TRAVELS IN POLAND. 469 L -Kure*. From the apartments of the palace Ere is an extensive view of the neighbouring E untry, which is principally a large sandy plain. At some distance from Cracow is the fortress of .ndskron situated upon a rock, which the con- ates possessed during the late troubles,* and itoin whence they made excursions as occasion L^gj against the Russian and Polish troops in L service of the king. By a det: "hment of Ljps from this fortress, the citadel of Cracow L taken by surprize; a gallant exploit, and Uich merits a particular description. The per- U wlio shewed the palace was himself pre- Lgt when the Polish troops issued from a sub- •rraneous passage, and surprized the Russian gar- m, consisting of eighty-seven troops. About bur in the morning a party of seventy-six con- Jerates, all of whom were Poles, led by a jeutenant, whose name was Bytranowski, entered ke palace through a common sewer, without (ejiio- discovered, and repairing to the main- iiard instantly fell upon the Russians: the latter (ere so confounded with the suddenness of the eaiilt, they all yielded the::isclves prisoners jithoiit the least resistance, and the Poles became Ltersof the citadel. Two or three Russians (ere killed at the first onp^et, and the remainder tre confined in a dungeon. One soldier how- It Thi« palace wag former))' the rftflidcnce of the kings of Manil, who, from the lime of I^dislaiis Lokctec, had been roirneil at Craniw. The Polish and German historians ifer concerning the time -when the title of king was first liiued by (he Kovereigns of this country ; but the most robable acrount is, that in 1205, Promislaus assumed the I title, and was crowned at Gncsna by the archbishop If inat diocese. He was succeeded by Ladislaus Luketcc, llio, ufl'ending the Poles by his' capricious and tyrannical Inducf, was deposed before he was crowned; and tcnrcslaus king of Bohemia, who had married Richsa Whtcr of Premislaus, beic.g elected in his stead, was in consecrated and crowned at Gncsna. Iiadislaus, Iter flying from his country, and undergoing a series nf plamitiius adventures, was at length brought to a sense of s misconduct. ItaTing regained the aflectiun of his sub. kt!, he was restored, in the lifetime of VencAlaus, to krt uf his dominions ; and he recovered them all upon (he jnniscor that monarch in 1305: he governed, however, ; sonic years without the title of king; but at length in W was crow ned at Cracuw, to which place he transferred l( ceremony of the coronation ; and afterwards enacted, plfor the future bis successors should be inaugurated in cathedral of this city. Since that period, the laws of klandhave expressly enjoined that t^racow should bo the lice of coronation ; and such has been (he superstitious luckmciit vjf the Poles tu this usage, that when John ever found means to escape by climbing the wall of the citadel, and alarmed the Russian soldiers within the town; these without delay attacked the castle, but, receiving" a warm fire from the Confederates, they imagined the enemy to be more numerous than they really were, and de- sisted from the assault. This event happened on the 2d of February, 177^', The same evening Monsieur de Choisy, in the service of the Con- federates cf Landskron, being made acquainted with the succesp of the enterprize, advanced towards Cracow at the head of eight hundred Confederates (amongst whom were thirty or forty Frenchmen, most of them officers), and, having defeated a detachment of two hundred Russians, was received into the citadel. But the Russian garrison in the town, which before consisted of only four hundred men, being likewise reinforced, the Confederates inthecitadel underwent a regular siege: they defended themselves with the most undaunted spirit for the space of three months; and at length capitulated upon the most honour- aole terms f. Near to the palace is the cathedral, which stands within the walls of the citadel. In this cathedral, all the sovereigns of Poland, from the time of Ladislaus Loketec, have been interred, a few only excepted. The sepulchres of the king'9 Sobieski was desirous of being crowned at Leopold, on ac. count of its vicinity to the army, which he was to command against the Turks at the time of his elucdon, the Polish pa(rio($strongly opposed any innovation; and that monarch was under the necessity of repairing to Cracow for the performance of the ceremony. Since Ladislaus, all the succeriling sovereigns were crowned at Cracow, excepting the li\te king. Previous to his election a decree was issued by tht diet of convocation, that the coronation should be solemnized for this turn at Warsaw, without prejudice in future to the ancient right of Cracow; but as Poland no longer subsists a separate nation, il having been divided among the emperor of Russia, the !>ing of Prussia, and the emperor of Austria, the quarrels concerning the place of coronation is now done away. + The subterraneous passage through which the seventy- six confederates introduced themselves into the palace, is a train which conveys all the tilth froXn the interior part of thi palace to a small opening without the waiis uear tho Vis.ula. They entered this small opening, and crawled upon the'ir hands and knees a considerable way, one behind another, until they came out through a hole in the walls of tho palace; so that if the Russians had either been apprized of their a(tciii()l, or had over-heard thciu in their passage, not one person could have escaped: the danger was great, but it shews what spirit and perseverance will clfcct. of !..!J^i m m ;•>,! 470 COXE'S TRAVELS IN POLAND. of Pi>l;md arc not distinguislicd by any peculiar magnificence : their figures arc carved in mjirble of no extraordinary workmanship, and some are without inscriptions. About an English mile from Cracow ave tl«: remains of an old structure, called the pulace of Casimir the Great; but probably little of the original palace, as it was built by Casimir, ex- ists at present. In the inner court are the remams ofacorridore v/ith pillars of the Doric order; and upon one side of the walls is the white-eagle of Poland carved in stone, and around it an in- scription seemingly in old Gothic characters, of which can only be made out, Ann. Dom. M.CCCLXVII, which answers ♦-> *'ie a^ra of Casimir, who died in 1370. SJeveral marble columns were scattered around, wliich n] J the ancient magnificence of the buildinn- '^Tfj greatest part of the fabric was evidently''of 1 1 date than the reign of Casimir, and was d t J less constructed by succeeding sovereio-nj ] the foundation of the ancient palace; !>er!.;i ^- i Stephen Barthori, as in oiw place the itiscijot 1 Stephanus Dei gratia, may be traced; aiV"'^ by Sigismond III. as his cypher is to be seej with the wheat-sheaf, the arms of Gust Vasa, from whom he was lineally descend^ This ptilaice was the principal residence • Casimir: in the garden is a mound of cartji a barrow, which is called the tomb of Ejjy the fair Jewess, who was the favourite niistreJ of that monarch *> . ' SECTION II. Mode of sal III in g and Dress of the Poles — Account of Sall-JMines of Wielilsha — Their Extent aii Profit— Journcjj to Warsaw — Arrival at Warsa-dC — Description of the City — Palace—Porlniik of the Kings of Polan(^ Supper in Prince Poniatous/ii's Garden — Description of PovumkiJ Public Lihranj — State of Learning — Wretched Administration of Justice — Prisons of IVavmrj:. Punishments for criminal Ojjt'ences — Torture aboHshcc^—Laws relating to Debtors. T'HE Poles seem a lively people, and use much action in their ordinary conversation. Their common mode of salute is to incline tlicir heads, and to strike their breast with one of their hands, while they stretch the other towards the ground ; but when a common person meets a superior, he bows his head almost to the earth, waving at the same time his hand, with which he touches the bottom of the leg near the heel of the person to whom lie pays his obeisance. The men of all ranks generally wear whiskers, and shave their heads, leaving only a circle of hair upon the crown. The summer dress of the peasants consists of nothing but a shirt and drawers of coarse linen, without shoes or stock- ings, with round caps or bats. The women of the lower class wear upon th^ir heads a wrapper of white linen, under which their hair is braided, and hangs down in two plaits. Scvcial of them • To the influence of Ksthcr it is said the Jews owe Ihd numerous )>rivileges enjoyed by them in PulancI, which is eallcd the paradise of the Jinvs. But when the character of Casimir is eonsidered, MB may conceive that they were in- debted for tlieir fafoiirablc reception in Poland more to his policy thau to his alleclion for his miblru!; fur iu tbote wear a long piece of white linen hanging roiini (he side of their faces, and covering ilieir bodii below their knees: this singular kind of vei makes (hem look as if they were dnin;;^ peiiiiiice.l The dress of the htghrr orders, both monani women, is uncommonly elegant. That oftli gentlemen is a waistcoat with sleeves, omt whicl they wear an upper robe of a dill'crput coloui| which reaches down below the kiiw, nnd i fastened round the waist with a sash or |ririllej the sleeves of this upper garmen( are in warij weather tied behind (he shoulders; asabiti necessary part of (heir dress as aniark ol'nobiliiJ In summer, (he robe, «&c, is of silk; in wiiilel of cloth, velvet, or stuflf, edged with fur. TlJ wear fur-caps or boime(s, and buskins of yelloj leather, the heels of which are plaited with irni or steel. The dress of the ladies is a siiiiplj polonaise, or long robe, edged with fur. times the .Jews were itic richest and most commtrcil individuals in iMirope; by allowing the-n tla'ri'fure I settle in i'oland, and by ^ranliirg them some extraordinaij immunities, he introduced trade and much wealth iiitoK doiuiuigns» Ty i '4 COXl':'S TRATCl-SitM POLAND. 471 infifvhs, in tiieir features, look, customs, n,|(lu;d«eral appearanciv resemble. Asiatics ff (lian Europeans ; and tlioy are unquestion- '' r,j(,(^^„(lcd from Tartar ancestors. Mascow, fiiinan liislorian, well versed in the antiquity tiniiii, remarks, that the manner in which 'n„!,s \vear their hair is, perhaps, one of the itaiuii'iit tokens of their origin. So early as rfili tfiiitury some nations, who were coni- lidiileci uiidor the name of Scythians, had the "' . custom. For Priscius Ilhaitor, why ac- lipanicu Waximns in his embassy from PoiltisiiH II. to the court of Attila, describes a Kvtliiaii lord, whose head was shaved •«! a cir liar form, a mode perfectly analagous to the ,^,,.nt fashion in Poland. ''[n iliis P'"' <*' Poland, are the celebrated salt- liiies of Wi('li(-ska, which are situated within t(rh( miles of Cracow. These mines are exca- tteil iu a ridge of hills at the northern extremity fllitcliaiii which joins to the Carpathian moun- liDs: tliev take tluir appellation from the small [liaje of \V iclitska; but are sometimes called in Lei'in countries the mines of Cracow, from Lr \i(;iiii1v to that city. Those who are de- iMiisor visiting" tiie inner parts of the mine are «!(iiie(l lo (he great ro[)e that is employed in Liiiis: up the salt*, and are let down gently, Liila liimdred and sixty yards below tlie Hr&t iHt of salt. They theu pass a long and gradual isrenf, sometimes through broad passages or Llltnes ciipiihlc of admitting several carriages breast; sometimes down steps cut in the solid lit, wliicii has the grandeur and commodiousness tliestiiircase in a palace. They each carry a |ht, ai\J several guides precede them with jiips in their hands: the reflection of these jilts upon the glittering sides of the mine is ex- Kuiflv beautilul, but does not cast that luminous ileiidoiir, wliith some writers have compared Itlio liiiitre of precious stones. The salt dug inm this mine is calicd Zichna or Green Salt, |r uliat r(!as()n it may be dillicult to determine; lr its colour is an ii on grey; when pounded it ^ui dirty iish colour like what we call brown The qualily of the «alt improves in propor- uino the depth of the mine; towards the sides I* TliiTO iirfl two other opuiiiiJg.'^, down one of which the liioisdi'iccii!! I)y sttiirs, ildwn thii otliiT l)y liuldcrs. It Olio uf till! most ri'ni.irkiiblc ciiriositios of (ho |>la('0 is, ^eral !.m»Jl cliapels e.vcavatud in the su'.tj in Hhich iiuus \i Vol II, No. cm. ' and>Burfacc it is mixed with earthy or stony par- ticles; lower down it is said to be perfectly pure, and requires no other process before it is used than to be pounded. The tinest of this grey salt, however, is of a weak quality when compared with the common sea-salt: it is therefore un- doubtedly by no means perfectly pure, but is blended with extraneous mixtures, though it serves very well for common purposes. .Being almost as hard as stono, the miners hew it with pick-axes and hatchets, by a tedious operation, into large blocks, many of which weigh six or seven huudreu pounds. These large niasses are raised by a windlass, but the smaller pieces aro carried ;;n by horses along a winding gallery, which reaches to the surface of the earth. Beside grey salt, the miners sometimes discover small cubes of white salt, as transparent as Crystal, but not in a'.iy considerable quantity; they find likewise occasionally pieces of coal and petrilied wood buried in the salt. The luine appears to be inexhaustible, as will easily be conceived from the following account of its dimensions. It* known breadth is one thousand oue hundred and fifteen feet; its length six thousand six hundred and ninety-one feet; and depth seven hundred and forty-three; and the best judges on the spot suppose, with the greatest appearance of proba- bility, this solid body of salt to branch into various directions, the extent of which cannot be known: of that part which has been perforated, the depth is only calculated as far as they have hitherto dug; and who can ascertain how uuich farther it may descend ?i'. Many of the excavations or chambers, from whence the salt has been dug, are of an ilnmen.^e si/e; some are supported with timber, others by vast pillars of salt, which are left standing foj* that purpose: several of vast dimensions aro without any support in the middle. There is one of (ins latter sort in particular, which is certainly eighty feet in height, and so extremely long and broad, as almost to appear amid the subterrane- ous gloom without limits. The roofs of these vaults are not arched, but flat. The iuuuenso size of thes-c chambers, with the spacious passages or galleries, together with the chapels nientioiied MTiil on certain Hays of thi> year; ouo of thoso cliapcls ii ahi)vi> thirty feel long and Iwi'uty.livo I)r()ad; h c\i:n La I.ihiirte ronvhe ahnnhlc J\lct Ics Unix coufks sur la table'*' Even with the lustre of a crown, which, is m to dazzle our judgements, the king of l\t\l could not fail of being esteemed one of tlmmoi agreeable- and polite gentlenien in I'liroiic: has a surprizing fund of interesting conversaiioB] and I never yet had the honour of access to I company without being both informed and dJ lighted. His majesty did not retire until J o'clock, when the company separated, unj ^4 * " I Ii;i(l several opportunities (says Mr. Coxp) of re. marking the prcvaloiicy of the Latin tongue in Poland ; when I visited the prisons, I coiiversi'd \t\ that hn^uiinc vcith a common soldier, wlio stood guard at the entrance: be spoke it wish great ilucucy." -.^. . ly relined; and as th(!y spare no expcme, anj have a natural good taste, they generally mn in creating pleasure and surprize. TlicirhoJ pitality and politeness exceed those of alnioj every other nation. + These pillars are of the same romposidon mdciloJ with those of the i'aiithooii in O.xforJ Street. i V^oll.aire. PflVO COXE'S TRAVF.W IN POLAND 475 '■^■)i[ Pnronikii Uie villa of prince Adam Zartoiiski, I bout three milea from Warsaw in the midiit I fyte^: ihe situation is alnost level, with fMtd there a gentle slope, which produces an jLable variety. A river runs through the Ejundii, w'»'<^'' """^ '*"* **"* '" *''* English taste, lb a beautiful intermixture of lawn and wood; Uii are cut. through the wood, and carried E ,|, llie side of the water. The house, which ^ upon a gentle rise, has the appearance of {toM«> constructed like those of the peasants, [ilhtruitksof trees piled upon each other, and ■itched with straw: beside the principal Jini;, inhabited by the prince and princess, lere arc separate cottages for the children and ktendants, each of which has its inclosures and L|| garden; this group of structures bears the nblanceof a village, composed of huts scat- I at a small distance from eiicl) other. Other luildingSj such as summer houses, pavilions, istic sheds, and ruins, are dispersed throughout jirrounds; the stables are constructed in the jiu of an half demolished amphitheatre. Several Laiitic bridges, rudely composed of the trunks ybent branches of trees, contribute to heighten (rusticity of the scenery. From the appear- jce of the principal cottage without, one might Uctthe inside tube furnished in the simple \leof a peasant's hovel, but within every spe- of elegant magnificence which riches and ste could collect are to be found. All the [isrtmfnts are decorated in the most costly man- it; but the splendour of the bath room is pe- Lliarl) striking: the sides are covered from top Ibnttom, with small square pieces of the finest isdeii China, each ornamented with an elegant Lrig; and the border and cieling arc painted p beautiful festoons. The ex pence of fitting I this apartment must have been prodigious ; [there arc at least three thousand square pieces [china employed, each of which cost at Dresdea jrce ducats*. Near the house is an enclosure, Lrouiided with large blocks of granite heaped !U|)on another, and fallen trees placed in the itt natural and picturesque shapes. The several ages inhabited by the children ar^ each fitted in different styles, bu' with equal elegance. l«ry thing without doors gives one the idea of pappy peasant's family; within all is costliness I tuslc. The grounds are prettily laid out in IVolii. No. cm. * About the English taste of gardening. Here is likewise a Turkish tent of rich and curious workmanship, pitched in a beauf'-"!! retired field near the stables. This tent oelongcd to the grand-vizier, and was taken during the Ih(c war between the Russians and the Turks: under it is a Settee, and a carpet spread upon the ground. Passing through the house is a small spot of rising ground, where, in the evening, you are suddenly struck with a most beautiful illuininution. A rustic bridge, consisting of a single arch over a broad piece of water, is studded with several thou- sand lamps of diflerent colours; whilethc reflection of this illuminated bridge in the water is so strong as to deceive the eye, and give the whole the ap- pearance of a brilliant circle suspended in the air : the effect is splendid beyond description, and con- siderably heightened by the gloom of the forest in the back-ground. \Vhile the traveller is ad- miring this delightful scene, a band of music strikes up at a little distance, and amuses him with a concert. From this enchanting spot, you are led across the illuminated bridge, to a thatch- ed pavillion, open at the sides, and supported by pillars ornamented with garlands and twisted festoons of flowers: within this pavillion, when any strangers are present, they generally sup on a cold collation, to partake of which they sit down to a table which is covered with all kind of delicacies, with the most costly wines, and every species of fruit which art or nature can furnish.' When the supper is ended they rise from table, and take a walk in the gardens, which are suddenly illuminated, and they range about as fancy dictates: and here they are gratified with the sound of wind instruments, played by persons dispersed in diflerent parts of the grounds. The bishop of Plotsko has a palace at Jablonska about eight miles from Warsaw. The palace is a handsome building, constructed after a design, aiid at the expence, of the late king for his brother, who was bishop of that see. One of the apartments, called tBe Turkish saloon, is re- markable for its elegance and singularity : it is in the Oriental taste, of an oblong shape, very high, with a fountain in the middle, surrounded with a parterre of flowers. Between the parterre and sides of the room are ranges of Turkish soplias. The variegated tints and rich fragrance of the flowers, joined to the transparency and 6E in jtfl 7s. 6i>. i: 11 ^!.Kr,. ■■' : V ill isS' ' ^ '■ 'if ; ! i i. '.'■'■ ;■ ' I '1f id \ H I'- Til ' i 47ff COXF.'S TRAVELS IN POLAND. murmurs of tlic fountain, produce a most pleasing clfcct, and, together with the coohicss of (he apartment, reader it a delicious retreat from the iioats of summer. The Vistula winds uh)ng at a stuall distance from the palace, through a sandy and almost level country. The public librar}' at ^Varsaw owes its be- p:inning to the private bounty of two bishops of the family of Zaluski; the following inscription is over the door; Civiiim iisui pcrihluo Zalusiro- nnn ptir illusive (liaivit 1714. It has since re- ceived several large additions from various bene- factors; and contains above a hundred thousan.i volumes. It is very rich in books and manuscripts relating to the Polish history. There are two universities, one at Cracow, and the other at Vilna; the former was under the direction of pricsfs, called Academicians; and the latter was superintended by the Jesuits; but in both, the course of studies was cliietly confined to theology. After the suppression of the Jesuits^ the king established a committee of education, composed of members distinguished either by liigh station, or enlightened understanding-^. The committee has an absolute power in matters of education, appoints professors, regulates their salaries, and directs their studies. Although from the nature of the government learning has never been widely diflused in Poland, yet there never have been wanting men of genius and literature, who have been an ornament to their country: and perhaps no nation can boast a more regular succession of excellent historians; or a greater variety of writers deeply conversant in the laws, statutes, and constitution. Under Sigismond I. and his son Sigismond Augustus, the arts and sciences began to be greatly distin- guished by royal patronage; they were cherished by some of the succeeding monarchs, particularly John Sobieski; but no prince paid them more attention than the late king Stanislaus Augustus. His munificence in this particular was attended ivith the happiest effects. The Polish literati have, within a few years, given to the public a much greater variety of elegant performances than ever appeared in any former period of the * Many of these towns arc at present rudiiccc' to such a low state, as .scarcely to dc^scrve the name of villages : in ♦Jicse placcF, of course, the judges are necessarily persons «f the lowest doscription, and totally unqualified for the (liscbargc of their high ofHco. Innocence and guilt, by this same length. What is more material, a (j,* r science has spread itself among the 'nobles'^ begins to be regarded as an accomplishment * Atrocious crimes, such as murder, ^/ punished in Poland by beheading or hancl lesser delinquencies by whipping, hard laK and imprisonment: the nobles never siifl'or corporal punishment ; but are liable only to i"' prisonment and death. Torture was abolished in 1776, by an edict | the diet, introduced by the influence of ^\^p | ,1 king; a regulation as expressive of hi^ inji(.^|.. j udgemcnt as of his benevolence. It is an inllmf satisfaction toseethe rights of humanity extendin,, themselves in countries, where they bail bceS but little known. , The defects of the police in this country are bt no circumstances so strongly evinced, as by fr/l quent impunity of the most atrocious criiiies-| this abuse may be traced from the foUowiJ causes: I. The greatest criminals fuwl at tiinej^ little ditficulty in engaging the protection ot'sonj of the principal nobles, who occasionally assemJ ! lie their vassals and retainers in arms, and driveL the otiiccrs of justice from their lands. 2. Tliel law, esteemed by the Polish gentry the great! bulwark of their liberty, which enacts, that nol gentleman ran be arrested for misdemeanors untilf he is convicted of them, notwithstanding tligl strongest dogree of presumptive proof: (hei olTender, of course, if likely to be found giiiltyj takes care to withdraw himself before the cooiJ pletion of the process. Murder indeed, aDdl robbery on the highway, and a few other capital! crimes, are excluded from this privilpsre: buC even in those flagrant enormities no gentlemanj can be taken into cu.stody, unless actually appre.[ bended in the commission of the oU'encu; nndl when the crime is thus positively ascertained,! which in the nature of things can seldom occur,] the culprit cannot be sentenced to capital punish- ment by any other tribunal than a diet. 3. Tbel right which every town possesses of having its j own criminal courts of justice, with judges se- lected solely from the inhabitants*. 4. Thcrel are no 'public officers whose province it is tol moans, are often not distinguished, and as often wantonl;! confounded. Not only the power of levying duscrctiooatjfl fines, but the infliction of corporal punishna'ut, andcieti of death itself, is entrusted to these co«iteinptible tribunaKl prosecuttj COXE'^r'TIlAVKLS m POLAND. fffljecule <''<' offenders in the king's namb. r.(f even in case of muTder, robbery upon L lii"' ^''^ 1^^^^ atrocious crimes, the r,',"u(.nt generally escapes, unlesi some in- dual indicts and bringshim to trial: tills »el- I l,3ppciis, as the process is attended with no jlghiirc of expence. 5. The power which , pljintilf possesses of withdrawing li is pi-o- cuiion, even in cases of the greatest enormity: is custom screens all but the indigent from the mrsuit of justice; as persons of moderate ironcrty nre cenerally able to bribe ihc necessity If avarice of their prosecutor*. The laws relating to debtors are ns follow: le creditor prt)cceds a2;iiinst the debtor at his m.i cvpfiK't!; and, until the trial is finished, \0i him eight groschens, or three half-pence. a day for his maintenance; when the debt is proved, the creditor is released from the above- mentioned contribution: the debtor continues in prison, at the discretion of his creditor, until the debt is discharged ; and', if he has no means of subsistence, is obliged to maintain himself by working with the delinquents in rutting wood, sawing stone, or cleaning the streets. In ca!«c a gcnCIeman contracts a debt, an action lies against his lands and goods, and not against his person, unless he gives a note of hauil with a double signature, one intended as an ascertainment of the debt, the other as a renunciation of his ex- emption from arrests; but a person of high dis- tinct'on, even though he should bind himself by this engagement, can bid defiance to all danger ,of iaiprisoament. ..,.;t, SECTION III. itf ■ ,j Mistocn — Enferfai'ivncnt at the Countess of Braniski's Palace-— Duchti of Lithuania— Its Union I'siih Poland — Description of Grodno — Diets — Phijsic Garden — General Productions of Lithuania \ -Account of the Wild-Ox — Of the Remiz and its pendent JVcst—AIanufactures — JSf umber of j^s;s— Badness of the Roads and Want of Accommodations — Close of the Dietine at Minsk — Pivr/// and Wretchedness of the JVatives — Comparative IVcxu of the Swiss and Polish Peasants-^ EoiHirks on the Plica Polonica. iPPOSlTE to Warsaw, on the other side of (lie Vistula are the suburbs of Pragaf. Ibuut ail English mile from Warsaw a forest eiiH, and continues, with little interruption, [the distance of eighteen miles. Some of the laces in the road to Biallistock, though extreme- ]wrctilied, enjoy their own police and courts liiistice: they consist of wooden huts, mostly Btclied, some roofed with wood, and a few b'th tiles. The country is chiefly saiidy and I* This practice, founded on a narrow principle, that Tirages against imlividiKiLs arc merely private, nut public jencos, k an instance of the grossest barbarism, which all lilizcd nations hare renounced ; for it requires a very degree of legislative improvcmeut to perceive, that Ivate wrongs, when unchastiscd, become highly injurious llhccommHnity at large, by affording encouragement to nlar oirincrs. In visiting the prisons, says Mr. (Jo.vc, Bv the had effects of this usage exemplified in a striking jtaiicc. Two persons, indicted for the assassination of a V, had been permitted to rem.iin in prison upwards of a (ln*oii(h, without being brought to a trial. The widow [ihtMlcfeased, upon whose accusation they were imprison- 1 iavjng agreed, on the pnyraciit of a stipulated sum, to level as far as the Bog, which may be crossed at Gran: the river is broad and shallow. On the further side of this river is a better soil, and the country is more diversified. The road is not un- pleasant, running through fields sown with dif- ferent species of corn, hemp, and flax; but the forest is still in sight, and seems to skirt the horizon. In many places the wood encroaches upon the fields, and young trees shoot up in groat numbers wherever cultivation has been drop the suit and grant them a release, their inability to .•satisfy her demand had been the only reason for detaining them so long in confinement ; and as when I saw them they h.id jnsl r.iised the money, they were upon the point of ob> taining a linal discharge. + When Count Siiwarroff took Praga, in 1794, when the inhabitants were tranquil, when ten hours had ulapsed after his taking possession of the suburbs, and when he had sulUcient time to get thoroughly intoxicated, (for he seldom undertook any military exploit till he was half inebriated,) ilie inhuman monster ordered an undistinguished massacre uf the inhabitants of this ill-fated place. This sealed the fate uf Poland, and it ceased to be an indcpcndeui nation. neglected. 478 COXPS TRAVELS IN POLAND. neglected. This is the rase in mmt parts of Poland, many traces of former eiK-losiires, iwd even the vestiges of paved streetn, being dis- cernible in the centre of the forests. The largest place on the road is Bielsk, capital of the palatinate of Podalnchia, >^'here thedictine for the district is held: it is little better than a miserable village, though called, in the geogra- phical descrijitions of Poland, a large town. Between Biels!'- and Wovtszi the cottages are infinitely worse: even tliau thme wretched d\YelIin;;8 which are in the towns where the inha- tntunts are more free; in the latter are furniture and some conveniences; in these nothing but the bare walls. The peasants are perfect slaves, and their habitations and appearance correspond with their miserable situation: a traveller could scarce- ly figure to himself such objects of poverty and misery. The country from -Warsaw to Biallistock is in general sandy; but in some places the soil is very rich. All parts are fit for cultivation, and many spots have the appearance * ]NTr. Cloxc, s))caktHg uf his vi.sit to the countess Braniski, Siiys, '•'• The muniiiig after uiir arrival, the rountt'os, to M'lioin wc hiid a Iftter from ])riiicc Stanislaus I'oninlowski, honoured i)s with a most polite invitation to dinner, and sent her ciu-rlagc to convey ns to the nalaw. We were mast politely received by our n«ble hostess, and were con. Tjncrd from her aminble inanners, condescending liehavioiir, niul lively flow of conversation, that attHbility and good souse arc natural to the family of Poniatowski. VVc found a largo coni])any assemlikKl at table, whom the countess had iutilcd to partake of her hospitable board, which was ele. gantly supplied with every delicacy. Among «)thcr topics, the conversation turned upon our inoJe of travelliug through a country so poor and wretched, and so deficient in coniforlable accommodations. " I suppose," said a Polish gentleman, " you carry your beds with you ;" to which we replied in the negative. " How do you sleep then?" "Upon straw, when wc ca:> get it; .and when we arc not «o fortunate, upon the floor, upon a bench, or »i|M)n a table." " You take your provisions," returned the I'olc. — " Vcr)' seldom." — " How do you live then ?" — " Upon what we can procure: one of our servants is sent before and generally contrives to obtain soqjc kind of pro. vision, which may sooth, if not satisfy, the demands of liunger; but we have travelling appetites, and arc not fasfidio\i3." — " Vou are not, however, without knives, forks, and spoons; fur such conveniences arc not known among the |)easanls." — " We each of us carry a cla p>knife; arc now and then so fortunate as to meet with a wooden s(><)on; and never regret the want of a fork." Here our noble hostess made a proposal to supply us with knives, forks, and spoonsj together wjth wine and provision : upon our declining this ofter, she pleasantly replied, " Per- haps you are above accepting them ; I know the Knglish are very haughty; will you purchase thcra:" Wc made answer, of great fertilit;^. The harvest, however in the most fruitful tracts, is but indifferent circumstance evidently owintr to der«r» i» i < bandry. •«=" 'nhuJ Biallistock is a very neat and wcll-buiu to 1 Tlie streets were broad, and the houses, wif "j ar« in general plaistered, stand detached ft' J each other at uniform distances. The suDer'"! neatness of Biallistock is owing to the illultri i family of Braniski, whose palace stands cloJt'l the town, and who have contributed to ornamei! their place of residence. It belongs to the cmnJ tess Braniski*, sister of the late king, and wida« of the late great general Braniski; wiio, notJ withstanding this alliance, warmly proWel agaioiit the election of his late majesty. From Biallistock, for some way, ig a conJ tinned forest; afterwards the country become more open, abounding with corn and pasture! the towns and villages arc long and 8tra?glinir| all the houses, i^nd even the churches, of voodl crowds of beggars surround a carriage wheneveH that we were not afraid of laying ourselves under any oblit tions to tk person of her politeness and generosity ; but liil object of our travels was to gratify curio«ity rat'iier thail appetite; and that wc thought ourselves most likely to b-. come acquainted with the domestic ceconomy of the m'.\ sants, by partaking of their accommodations, and bvriJ lying on them for the supply of our waots. WiJIiiiij ho J ever, not to appear rude in a rejection of tlio whoic'oirorl we accepted a few bottles of wine. The coimtcss did us tliJ honour to conduct us herself through the aiHirtmi'iitMlT the palace, which is a large building, in iIk- ItalhJ taste; and, on account of its grandeur and nia^niiironcf generally called the Versailles of Poland. It was forll nierly only a royal hunting scat; John C'asimir gate ill together with iiiallistock and some other estates tJ Czarnicski, a general highly distinguished by his victuritil over the Swedes at the time that Poland was nearly rrusMl by her enemies. Among the curiosities preserved in tli«| ])alace is a golden cup, which C/arnieski used afdr ihtl custom of those timt-s to wear fastened to his girdle; irntl an embroidered sash which ho took among the spoils arttril defeat of Charles X. and supposed to belong to that iii(i.| narch. Czarnieski left one daughter, w ho married llraniskll the father of the late great general, by which marriage ihtl estate came into that family/ There is one apartment whichl Augustus III. useii to occupy whenever he passed thisviyl to the diet of Grodno; and which, out of rcs|)cct to tli<| memory of their late sovereign, in left in its original sUte,! In another room is a fine portrait or Augustus in hinrojill robes, with his head shaved in the Polish fashion, as he ip.! pcared on the day of his coronation. In the afternoon vil drove about the parks and grounds, which arc tcry cilen.1 sivc, and elegantly laid out in the English taste. NVeciosdl .this agreeable day with a supper at the i>alacc, and twkl leave, witli regret, of its amiable and noble mistress. I iti COXI'VS TRaVF.LS in I'Or.ANO. 47!) WU'l't'iti,' ■ . j,;vv« mf»l«o flicir nppoariinco without I'lio next town of foiiM''' ambition of Alexander, aurnamed liloldus, and the discontents of those who Mcre .1 altachert to their Pagan rites, Lithuania was jir some time a scene of tumult and hostility. II lep£,ili, by a compromise in l.SyS, Vitoldus L aiipointed great duke, and Ladislaus con- jiitcd himself with a reservation of nominal ivprei'nity. In 1413 it \^as stipulated, in a diet fPuksand Lithuanians held at Hrodio, that, Liillie demists of Vitoldus, the Lithuanians loutd acknowledge no other great-duke but the Jfson whom the king might appoint, with the troement of the two nations; that, in case liihlaiis died without issue, the Poles should lect no king without the consent of the Lithua- fiiis; and that a diet, composed of repre- ntatives from both nations, should meet when- ier it was thought necessary, at Lublin or ' In suhsorvicncy to (his great work, ho ordered the llowed grovrg tn 1)0 cut down, tlio oracular nhrinc to bo llfuyod, lht> sacred (iro to bo extingiiislu-d, and tho ser. m worshipped as Gods by his siiperstllions subjects to jilain. A belief unlvcrsaHy prevailed among tho people, It w'mi'ver pi'of.%uely attempted to destroy thcso objects I their worship, , wouhl bo struck with insttaatanuous [Vol. II. No! CIV. I'arzow. Tlii-j compart wan, Iiowcvcr, some- times violated, till Sigisuiond f. united the two govercigntii's, and wa* succeeded in both by his son Sigismond Augustus. lliflicrto the connection between the two iia- tiniis had been nu)re an alliance thiin an union; but Sigismond Augustus living no children, and being the only surviving male heir of tlio Ja- ghollon family, plamuid the iniion of Poluiid and Luh'iania, lest upon his decease the connection should bc dissolved, and the two nations be again governod by ditterent princes. After some dif- liculties, and being once f-ustrated in his attempt, he obtained, from a general diet held at Lublia in i.^)()i*, that Poland and Lithuania shjuid frorn henceforth be united and considered as one nation ; that one sovereign should be closen conjointly by both people; that the LHhuanians should send nuntios to the general d.ot, be admitted into the senate, and have an equal share in the |)ublic honours and eniploynicnts; that no alliance should be made with foreign powers, and no am- bassadors dispatched without the consent of both parties; that the same money should pass current in both countries ; in short, that they should have no distinction of privilege or interest. Upon the ratification of this union, Sigismond Augustus r(!nounccd all hereditary right to Lithuania. From this period the same person was uniforuily elected king of Poland and great duke of Lithu- ania; the two nations were incorporated ir.to one republic; Tind continued so till the final partition of Poland. Grodno is a large si/aggling place, but con- tains no more than three thousand Christians, excluding the persons employed in the manufac- tures, anti a thousand Jews. It has greatly the appearance of a town in decline; containing a mixture of wretched hovels, falling houses, and ruined paUces, with magnificent gateways, re- mains of its ancient magnificence. A few habita- tions in good repair make the contrast more striking. The old palace in which the kings used to reside during the diets, stood upon a death : when the falsity of this tradition was proved by tha iiii|)unity of those ronrcrned in tho supposed sacrilege, tho Lithuanians lloi-lied in such crowds to be converted, that the priests could only bestow separate b;iptism on persons of distinction ; but distributed the muUltude in ranks, and, sprinkling them with water, pravc one christian nam.'} t(> each rank without distinction of 5ex. QF hill t M m (."I ill Hi fill • nlK' K.1 480 COXE'S TRAVELS IN POLAND. liill of sand rising abruptly from the river, and forming part of its bank: some remains of the ancient walls still exist. Opposite to this hill is the new palate built, but never inhabited, by Angnstus III. as it was iiot finished at the time of \m dcaU). Tn this palace are the apartments wherein it was intended the die(s shonld be held, if thej are ever again summoned to Grodno; but, alass! Lithuania is now under the dominion of llussia. The late kinj;- of Poland established in Grodno a Kovul Academy of Physic for Lithu- ania, in which ten students were instructed in physic, and twenty in surgery. They were all lodged, boarded, and taught at his majesty's ex- pence, and the institution greatly flourished un- der the roval patronage and protection. The . physic garden, which did not exist in 1776, made, in 1778, a very respectable appearance; which was entirely owing to Mr. Gillibert's at- tention and care, that gentleman being superin- tendant of the college and physic garden. The animals roving in the very large forests of Lithuania are the bear, the wolf, the elk, the wild-ox, the lynx, the beaver, the glouton, the wild cat, &c. The wild-ox, or common bull in a wild state, is probably the same quadruped which is described by Aristotle under the name of Bonasus, styled Urus in the Commentaries of CfTSDr, and called Jiiso7i by some naturalists. It is rather larger than ihe common English bull, and shaped like a buft'alo, but without the pro- tubera ic«; over its shoulders: its neck is high and thick, and covered with long hair, or mane, which somewhat resemble? that of an old lion; the forehead is narrow, with two horns turning inwards, and the tongue of a blueisli colour. The male is sometimes six feet in height, and is more fierce and shaggy than the fern tic*. * Linn;rii.s has classed the lionusiti, the Urus, and (he iy/.vo)j under three ppccics ; Duft'oa •odiKCs (tu-in to two,, the (////s and the fiison; and Penniuit has ron-.prised Ihcni all under one species. His opinion has been lately adoi>tcd by Pallas, in a very curious dissertation published in the Acts of the Imperial .Vcadeiny of Sciences atSt. Petersburg. That celebrated naturalist informs «s, that this species of the •wi.'d-o*;, which was formerly very common in Kurope, ex. ists ni» where in that continent, but ia these Lithuanian forests, i-i some parts of the Carpathian mountains, and [lerhaps in the Caucacus. lie agrees also with Bullon, in holding the bixon or « ihl.ox of America to bu only a variety of this »irns clian;;ed by the climate. ■i Naturalists have loii« diiiored concerning tho origin of amber. Some maintain it to be an animal substance ; others class it among the minerals ; some assert, that it is a vege- tabic oil uuiuii with a mineral aiid; but the taunt common Lithuania is very rich in ornithology; amn j the birds of prey the eagle and vulture arc 1 common, liemiz or little species of tituio^!,! called Paras Pendulinuti, is not luifrequeiuiJ found in these parts. They are of the small '( species Of titmice. The head is of a very nt blueish ash colour; the forepart of the iietk ■ 5 the breast tinged with red; the bcllv white; vc'l black ; back and rump of a yellowish nistcoloufj quill feathers cinerous, with the exterior sid I white; the tail rust-coloured. The njale singularly distinguished from the female by pair of black-pointed whiskers. l(s nest is intlJ shape of along purse, which it, forms wij amazing art, by interweaving down, goss-a-merj and minute fibres, in a close and compact maniierl and then lining the inside with down alone, soj to make a snug and warm lodging for its yoimd brood. The entrance is at the side, and siiiai and round, with its edge more strongly markei than the rest of this curious fabric. The bird! attentive to the preservatiori of its oggs or 1 ones from noxious animals, suspends it at thelcsiti end to the extremity of t1ie slender twigs ofj willow, or some other tree, over a river. Coih, trary to the custom of titmice, it lays only foul or five eggs: possibly Providence hath orilaiiJ this scantiness of eggs to the livmiz, bccaus< bi the singular instinct imparted to it, it is ciiablei to secure its young inuchinore eHectualiv froij destruction, than the other species, which ar] very prolific. A great quantity of yellow amber is frcqueuj dug up in th^; Lithuanian forests, sometimes il pieces as large as one's tisl, and it is probiibil the production of a sinull resinous piiicf duchy abounds in iron ochre, called by Linna-uj Tophus humoso ochrcaccus, and described b| r»llerius under the article o opinion seems to be that it is a fossil bitumen. A kw lioll it to be the resinous juice of a pine hardened by :no: i!if latter opinion was also maintained by the ancient Ki.ni,ig^ Amber is most usually found upon the sea-coast, amlth(>i Moribus GermanicuR. jMacquaire's ChymjMry, v, II, 20(). Uishopof LandalPs(Dr. Watson) tlssaysoiil'lijMiistfjj V. III. j>. I'i. and |iarticularly\ValleriusSysteui. .Miiicrjloci^ V. II. p. II.') — li?. where the reader will liiid a list of I priuciial naturalists, who have writtcu uuun Anibn. VVallaii I produces forty pounds [weight; it yields also se ler and iron pyrites; blacks . fj a resemblance to tlie ro( jniassesofrcd and grey grai Jojtainiiife'f'2'P**'s"* white Lizcd; a prodigious quani Les- particularly anielhysi L clialccdonies, cornelian! Inhis catti, or c&VnvA-e,jmp J red ipccies. Lithuania [jrine petrelactions, and ch (common in the IJaltic; of i I till most numerous, and ijfdliinum Gotlilcnidicnm Kich is described in the 1 LiwiVfl/cs Jcadanica; as ex JTlic principal manufacti Ljets, linen and cottons, sill ikstockirgs, hats, lace, fire i leailiing wax, and carriages, Ijies suiVicient wool, flax, 1 fiwax for the supply «»f the bplov those commodities; 1 ioD colours, gold and silver nine thread from Krusse bortfd. The manufacture liid persons, including I'mi liiliiriioiH villages, who spi Iffnl. The apprentices ar- lililrcn of Poli.'h peasants. Id, and IriTp besidis a smaJ ^if dirccttfT- complain that t iioii;;' them; and that, althi iiiiii clothed than the otht hinot excite them to industry ■an force. Tht;se nninufact iraiic), hut their iintitution r Istrenpon the late king's re rilariv Hi his attention was leni during the civil convuls bm;, and at length overtiu In Lithuania there are a v I indeed there are in every [ seem to have fixed their Ichv, If von ask for an int 111 a Jew; if vou come to i la Jew; if you want post ut'i them, and a Jew drive purchase, a Jew is your COXE'S TRAVFXS IN POLAND, 481 Pll'yg under the article of Ferrum limosum, r*' I produces forty pounds of metal in an hiin- Ivveiebt; it yields also several species of cop- ji,(| iron pyrites ; black agate, which always Ls a resemblance to tl'.e roofs of pines; dctach- jniassesofrcd md grey granite ; pudding stones, r jjiniiit- cbrystals of white (jiiartz ; the echinus ^lizeJ; a prodigious quantity of false precious Les, parlicnlarly ainclhysts, topazes, garnets, .. (iialccdonies, cornelians, milky agates, the Uiiscatti, or cat's eye, jaspers, and particularly lered Mwcics. Lithuania is cx'ieuicly rich in lirine netrefactions, and chiefly in those which ecninnio" in the Hultic; of these (he madrepores .(iic most numerous, and amongst of hers the V(!//in»"f Gothlandicnm is not un.i, union; hicli is ilt'scribed in the first volume of the hnMcs Jcadcmica; as extremely rare. jTlic principal maiuifactures arc cloth and blets, linen and cottons, silk stufl^s, cml)roidery, Ikstoekirgs, hats, lace, fire arms, needles, cards, atliintf wax, and carriages. The country fur- jshessiiHicicnt wool, flax, hemp, beavers hair, Jwax (or the supply (»f the manufactures which nplfM' flioi>e cominodifies; but the silk, cotton, toll; colours, gold and silver for the embroidery, line thread from Brussels tor the lace, are bortcd. The manufactures employ three thou- \ii persons, including ihose dispersed in the fciiii^iioiH villages, who spin l>:.en and worsted Iffjd. The apprentices arr hoys and girls, all iildreii of Polish peasants, who arc clothed and rf, and If&vr bcsidis a sm»e place; where are twochnrchcs and (he uioiiusUm y which belonged to the Jesnits, which are constructed of brick; and the remain- ing buildings, though t'oimed of wood, liave u neater look than the generality of dwellings in this country. From I\iinsk to Sinolcwitzo, which is ,"0 miles, (on account of the badness of the roads,) takes near twelve hours to perform the journey. No traveller has any indncemtnt to remain longer than is absolutely necessary in tlusc hovels, abounding in vermin, and in which filtli and ■\v retched ness are united. In various parts of the forest, through wliicli a traveller must pass is a circular range of boards fixed to several trees about twelve feet from the ground, and projecting three in breadth from the trunk. Upon any gre..t hunting party, ladders were placed against these scall'oldings; so that when any person is closely pr esed by a bear, he runs up the ladder, and draws it up after him : the Dear, although an excellent climber, is stopped in his ascent by the projection of the boards. ^Ve were very happy at length (says Mr. Coxe) to reach Nait/a, although we took up our station in on of the most wretched of all the wretched cottages we had yet entered. The only article of fnrniturt! it afl'orded was a small table, and the oidy utcnsi! a broken eanheii pot, in which our repast was prepared, and which served ns also for dishes and plates. ^^ e ale our meagre fare bv the light of a thin lalh of deal, about five feet in length, whiih was stuck into a crevice of the wainscot, and hung over the table: this lath, thanks to the turpentine contained in it, served us instead of a candle, of which there was not one to be found in the whole village of Mait/a. It is surprising, that the careless method of using these lights is not oftcner attended w ith more dreadful eflects; h;r IIk cot*'liiellyf situated on a level, and, excepting the tnici n'fl land about the middle of Jutland, is very lertilcl so that the country maintains its iiihabitunts ig] plenty, and yields a rich provision of everything necessary for the support of human life. Itcaii| better dispense with horned cattle uiid IiorsesJ than with any sort of grain. The climate k noil in general so rigid as in sonic p;irts of GermanvJ which aresiti:aied much more to the south. Thiij may arise from tl»e adjacent sea, the viipours off which dissolve the nitrous particles brought bjj the wind from the northern latitudes, binoretlifti reach this region. The gentle breezes blowinjj from the sea continue also to make the aircoolctl in summer. The ye;ir in the.se parts properlvl consists only of two seasons?, viz. winter audsuin-j mer; for spring and autumn are very sek! known. Diiring the three months of June, Jua and August^ the heat is more iiifciisc than in Enr,land, and very sultry in the night. Rutiti^ a close and disagreeable heat; and .'. Uiickncsil of the atmosphere even tinges the heanis of itiq^ sun with a deepness and gloom which is rxtreuiel/l tilfensive to the eye, particularly of a forcir-rf In Copenhagen, during t!iesc months, the pidirw of the fly, as it is tb jre called, is excccdiiigM troublesome. These the iuhabitiuitK endeavo THE kingdom of Denmark, one of the north- ern states of Europe, was formerly called Dania. It has the German Ocean on the W. the Skager Rack on the N. which separates it from Norway; the Cattegat and the Sound on the E. which separate it from Sweden; and part of Saxony on the S. The extent of this country is not easily ascertained, from the very irregular position of its several parts: it is, however, contained be- tween 53 degrees 30 minutes and 57 degrees 45 minutes N. latitude, and between 8 degrees and 13 degrej's 40 minutes E. longitude from Green- wich. Geographers usually divide it into Jut- land, the duchy of Sleswick, the duchy of Hulstein, .ind the islands at the entrance of th^ Baltic. All these together constitute the kiof^-^ dom of Denmark, yet neither of then particularly is called by that name. It is a singular circumstance, that the king of Denmark has not a navigable river in all his dominions. The Eyder is not by any means adapted to ships of burden; and the Elbe is rather one of the confines or boundaries, than an inland river of this kingdom. There are here some lakes, which ati'ord abundance of fresh- water fish, and the forests are well stocked with game of all sorts, as stags, elks^ wild boars^ hares, and plenty of wild fowl. The air of the north parts of Jutland is cold and piercing; but in the more southern parts, as well o in the islands of Funen and Zealand, it is milder and more temperate; though in the low mariiby parts, and in the isle of Laaland, the air i'i>?T NORWAY, DENMARK, AND SWRDF.NT. 477 j^jjfoy by means of a poisonous liquid: the I fled" of winch are so certain, that, on sprinkliiipj I 1 their kitchens and chambers, pecks of dead •'"cts'inay be swept tc -ether in one room. '°The latest and most accurate calculations of , number of inhabitants in the kingdom of lentnarkj excluding: those in the Greenlands and leiand, nial^e the whole amount to two millions Li: hundred and fortv-four thousand. How- , (jisDronortionate this number may seem to ever f 1 i^„„:„ u * :*„.:„„ 4U^ ..«_ tk extent of the Danish territories, the un ' Itjygted condition in which they lie, renders it ijffblv probable ; and even this seems to be more (ban sufficient for the purposes of commerce. Population in these modern times generally keeps nscewitl' plenty, especially in northern countries; Lniimber of his Danish majesty's subjects must llierefore be greatly encreased by tho improve- eiits lately introduced into agriculture and other lis. This part of Europe, liowever, is thought ysome to have been much more populous than It is at present. The Danes are divided into nobles, burghers, lid peasants ; and the noblest are distinguished V the appellation of the higher and lower lOLilitv. There never were any princes or liikes, except the king's sons, in Denmark, one blenian excepted. Knot Pors, who was created juke of Holland by Christopher II. so that the ink of higher nobles included only counts and tons, which titles were introduced by Christian The privileges of counts are many and reat: they have the right of primogenilurc. kir voungcr sons and daughters are stiled onsand baronesses, and possess all the dignity exed to that rank. In their counties or Tonies they exercise the right of patronage, and ippointajudge and secretary, from whose son- nce there is no appeal but to the supreme court if judicature. T'hey pay neither tylhcs nor ntributions for their hereditary estates; and are lowed three hundred acres of land free from all isalion or impost. All suits carried on against lem must commence in the supreme coiut of (licature. They beur a coronet over their coat arms. Barons are distinguished by nearly the me immunities; but enjoy only one hundred :res of land exempted from tylhes iind con- ibiilions, and are somewhat inferior in rank iri litlf. No person is made a feudal count or roQ who is not able to purchase so much land be as may De changed into a feudal county or barony. But this qualification is not requisite to the lower nobility, who, in matters of lite and honour, can only be cited before the supreme court of the king. As (o orders of knighthood, there are but two in this country, viz. that of Dannebrogue, which :s ',t great antiquity; and that of the Elephant, which was instituted by Christian I in honour of his son's marriage, and is conferred only on persons of the first quality and most extraordinary merit. The number of members which c )nstitu(e this most honorary order, besides the iovercign, is only thirty. The burghers of this country enjoy greater or less privileges acording to the cities of which they are member , their extent of property, or their personal deserts. Those of Copenhagen hav<: some peculiar distinctions, which are said to be very extraordinary and extensive. They obtained them in 1650, and had them both con- firmed and considerably enlarged in 1661. The peasantry of Denmark are of difTerent classes. Some possess a spot of land as their own property, for which they pay to the lord of the manor an inconsiderable acknowledgement: they are otherwise exempted from all exactions, excepting the gciieral contribution. These are called land-owners. Those who have only a farm, pay f*^r the profits of it at a stipulated rent in money, cattle, or corn, once a year, and do inferior service for a certain number of days at the manor, and at the pleasure of their landlords. There are stiil others who act as servants to these two classes of peasants. Slaverv, m the state of servitude, was abolished for the most part in tliis nation by Frederic IV. in 1703, and is con- tinued only in some parts of the duchy of SIcs- wick. In the times of heathenism the Danes paid re- ligious worship chiefly to their gods, the prin- cipal of which were Thor, Odin, and Frcya. Many attenipts were made in the middle ages to introduce Christianity in Denmark, but tfeose who endeavoured to cnlijihten the people in tins way were generally persi-iited with the most un- pavallelcd barbarity. At length Lutheranism met with a favourable reception in this kingdom, and gained the sanction of a national establish- ment by the diet held at Copenhagen in 15.37» The ecclesiastical government is divided into six dioceses; one in Zealand, anothtr in Funcn, and ' K' I 11 '^ I il : 'Pm .ill: ^1 478 NOWEL'S TRAVELS IN four in Jutland. The governinciit of these is committed to bishops, or supcriutendant's of the church and clergy. Men of eminence in the republic of letters are as frequent and numerous here as in any other European state of a similar extent. Indeed there is scarcely any branch of literature, or any ()ar- ticutar science, in which individuals in this king- dom have not acquitted themselves with credit. ■ The climate, however, seems to form aii in- vincible obstacle to the progress and improve- ment of what we call poiife learning and the fine arts. A short summer succeeds to the long series of cold and darkness, which environs them from October till April; and during that period they often experience very great heats for a few days, or sometimes weeks. Certainly man is much aflccted by physical causes; and one is not sur- prized io find the elegant arts confined more to luxurious and southern climates; and faintly raising their heads amidst the snowy and inhos- pitable regions, where the inhabitants seem in some degree to partake of the asperities of the soil, and where royal munificence, however un- bounded, can only raise, as it were a few sickly and straggling plants. The language of Denmark, like that of Nor- wav, is a corruption of the Teutonic. High Diitch and French are spoken at court. The nobility have also of late years made great pro- ficiency in the English, which is now publicly taught at Copenhagen, as a necessary branch of polite education. The police is singularly rigid and regular: Denmark is therefore seldom infested with those highway robberies, burglaries, and various kinds i){ felonies, so common in other commercial countries. Murder and manslaughter often liajipen; and the punishment of the criminal guilty of such enormities, is decapitation. Here the public executioner, though (as in every other place) he be universally despised, is usually very rich ; as he is the general contractor for emptying alljakeg, removing all kinds of filth, and par- ticularly dead domestic animals, which no other Dane would touch on any account. The Danish apothecaries are all under the most'excellent and exemplary regulations. Only two are allowed in Copenhagen i and only one in all other towns of importance. They are seve- rally licenced by the college of phyhitiana, and confirmed by the king. They are also Ijoimj J under certain penalties, to keep an exact rcir i^ i of all the drugs they sell; by whom prcscriyl and to whom administered. If some such 1 gulation as this were adopted in other countrbl it would be a mean of keeping empirics fro' vendi-g their pernicious nostrums, ami wouSl hinder many of those, who are called res^i.iarlJ bred, from selling those deleterious driiirs ^hit^ have been the cause of much mischief evciiiinlil metropolis of Britain. I There are many artists of the first celcbritrl and most extraordinary skill at Copenha(rei|.) and every branch of mechanics is at present welif executed in Denrnf/k. A few years agoa ocneraU warehouse or magazine was opened by aiillioriti in the metropolis, to which manufacturers brin* all the goods they have not been able to dispoi of in other towns, and are paid ready nioiiev y them. From this great storehouse all sorts ofl vendible connnodities are constantly delivered i to retailers on credit. Denmark enjoys the most commodious situaJ lion for navigation; and by establishing a general mart or staple in Copenhagen, might be tnadJ the center of all the northern trade, especially ol that carried on in the BaUic. Formerly, ftlltJ commerce in this country was carried on by tlid Hanse towns, which were afterwards supplantej by the Dutch and English; but chiefly by tU former. In process of time, the Danes under] stood the advantages of abandoning all nenlral bottoms, and using their own. Frederic IVJ may with propriety be stiled the real foundcrol the Danish commerce, which Christian VlJ powerfully supported, and Frederic V. verij much encouraged by his royal munificence an| bounty. The royal reven jes of Denmark arise from mj positions made at the king's pleasure on his owi subjects, from the duties paid by foreigners, »ii(j from his own demesne lands, including alUorl of mulcts and confiscations. Wine, salt, t» bacco, and every kind of luxury, are all mode- rately taxed. Marriages, paper, corporation land, houses, and poU-nioney, raise a consider^ able sum. The expenccs of fortifications arede< frayed by the people; and when the king'd daughter is married they contribute a hundrei' thousand rix-doUara towards her portion. Bui the internal taxes of tbi? country are very uncetJ tm 1,^,^^ flillicy arc iniifornily rni lliewillof t''e king. Custom: porls and exports arc more' paid by strangers arise chiefly Ljiiig tbrongh the Sound in iliLiiiifrnw strait which runs jiij Zealand. Thwe tolls arc ilicsizeofthe ship and the va fshibiled in bills of lading lis more than once thrown th( juion flame: it was often disput jiidDuttli; and the Swedes, wli onposite side of the pass, for soi pay it; but in the treaty of 17 ((VI) rival slates, under the firitaniiic nnijesty George I. tl: (0 pay the same rates whicli are ect;of Great Britain and the 1 iipaid at Ekiiieur, which is se; itihefiiitrance of the Baltic, The army of Denmark, in tii jii;|i()niiii<^ thousand cavalry liiiiu' of militia; but in time ol iin ihoiisand regulars, and an£ IV naval force of Denmark I :i)iijideriihly augmented, and ii maritime nation*. The fis !il«, especially of the nortlie ti'i\, allord great niMuhors of liiiryst a- faring i\ imi being obi ill', when called ipon, to ger loiiiitry for six years, for which III rt'^'iitcred. The six years h Innrc service is required of thci! )Umwn in Denmark and Norw Inii'iinls to twenty thousand moi lere Jj always a body of four biiiienled for sudden occasions lav, at t'openhagen. I The form of government ii bniieilv (lie same as that whicl |vtli(>(M)ths find Vandals \vhrr( ll't'ir confjtiests; but whothei oiodive or an hcreditarv kii Imlii'iinined, since both sides |fis|)oiN^d hy historians of e l(liiii((int> llie crown fo bo herci Jele>s certain, that the states I'Sufftn licroiiijt of tho uKicU OH BNiti f(M't.'os ill liu7, ;iiid ihg i\iri'0! ]Svi. It, N\> CIV .iH NOHWAY, DENMATIK, AND SWF.DKN. 479 n mllicv a>'<' "'"^''^•'"''y '■'^'^^^ *"■ lessened at |f' ^,.ij| of the king. Customs, and tolls oniin- I r(8 and exports arc n'loi'c stable. The tolls "" ' by slr;iiie,e''s Hi'.ise chiefly from foreign ships 0- through the Sound ihto the Baltic, bj w (I'liar^rosv slrait which runs between Schouen iJ '/^ciilaiid. ThcTiC tolls are in proportion to iL'si/coflhe ship and the valuo of itg cargo, esiiibitcd in bills of lading. This exaction hs more than once thrown the northern nations jp.pn flame: it was often disputed by the Kiiglidi jjjiitcli; and the Swedes, who coninuindi.'cl the liposite side of the pass, for some tinio refused ti) 'ay it; but in the treaty of 17^0 between these, (J) rival slates, under the guaranty of his jiritaniiic majesty George. I. the Swedes agreed to nay the saiiie rates which are paid by the sub- iedsof Great Britain and the Dutch. This toil Laid at Eisinenr, which is seated on the Sound Klicsntrance of the Baltic. The uiiny of Denmarkj in time of peace, con- ijiot' tliirt\ thousand cavalry and infantry, ex- |ii,iye of militia; but in time of war they muster fiv ll)oii«and regulars, and augment ihe militia. llieiiiiviil ('""ee of Denmark has likewise been oiisidcrably augmented^ and it is considered as maritime loa' Ivav nation*. The fisheries along the |t, especially of the northern parts of Nor- iitl'ord great numbers of excellent seamen. their choice out of the royal family, and that they also on some occasions departed from this custom. The present form of government iu Denmarkisgraftcdonthe ruins of that aristocratic power which the nobility exercised over their in- feriors with the most unsufterable arrogance and inhumanity. In 1660 the whole nation was in a most calamitous situation. A peaca not very hrtnourable succeeded a most uijfortunate war. The treasury was so much exhaiisted, that, on disbanding the troops, there was no money to pay up their arrears. The soldiers then became' insolent and licentious. The power of the nobles had lately arisen to an enormous height; and their haughtiness and rapacity extended with (heir power. The clergy, for want of im- portance, were discontented and chagrined at the obloquy and disrespect to w hich they found themselves reduced. The peasantry, irritated and made desperate by the oppressive taxes occa- sioned by a long, expensive, and abortive war, .vere turbulent and. unmanageable. These and other alarming circumstances rendered an imme- diate convention of the states indispensible. Here the commons proposed that an equitable tax should be laid on all without distinction, in pro- portion to their circumstances. This was strenu- ously an.', resolutely opposed by the nobles, who asserted their hereditary privileges as a full ex- irvsca-faiing i, an being obliged, once in his i emption from every kind of impost. The other |itl', when called ipon, to serve his king and party bad recourse to the great law of nature. ouiitrv for six years, for which purpose they arc ' wlich they contended was superior and prior to ill rt'i;iHtcred. The six years being expired, j»o j nil jirescription; and urged with unanswerable nori'st'i'vicc is required of them. The nuniber ! force the unalienable extent of theirnatural rights. Miiicn in Denmark and Norway thus registered i They stated, as the fundamental principle of the lnioiiiil« to twenty thousand men. Besides these lere ij always a body of four thousand sailors Kiiiieiilrd for sudden occasions, and in constant lav, at ('o|tenhage(>. jThe form of government in Denmark was Uifilvtlie same as that which was established lvtliL>(M)ths and Vaiulals wherever they cxtend- llu'ir conquests; but whether it wa'5 anciently cklive (tr an hereditary kingdom scorns yet liiihuiutincd, R'uce both sides of the question If es|)onst*d by historians of equal reputation. l(liiii(tin£> the crown to b'> herediturv, it is never proposition before them, that it was incumbent on those who engrossed the largest share of the lards, wealth, and honours of the kingdom ; to be.ir an equal proportion of the common burden^ and contribute accordingly to the general dcfiiocc. T'lis mode of' reasoning was too convincing ti) produce any other cflect thaji silence or fury; and the consequence of a disagreement between the interests and convictions of meu is easily fore- si»en. Teuaciousalikcof their real and injaginary claims, both parties were highly mflamed against each other. In the midst ot this violent ferment, chs ccitiiin, that the states commonly made I Otto Craeg, a nobleman more intrepid than pru- offiHliPr with the DinUh (loi;t to tlio Rritish arms in th" ^ a dcut, .M-J^ |*u?an iiiToiiut of tho uMicU on Copeaha^cn by tho ffoUovcos ill ltju7, uiid ihg lun'fiiili'i' •!' tl<»t ciidl;*!, Ut.H. No boldly told the commons, that thej neither understood the rights of the nobility^ who were their masters, nor their own, who were no more than slaves. These degrading expressions proved like oil to a furnace, and threw tne whole assem- bly into a blaze. The speaker of the commons, fired with indignation, swore a solemn oath, that the nobility should certainly repent the contempt with which they had treated them. The term slavery operated like a watch-word concerted by the burghers, the clergy, and the court. The assembly broke up in a rage ; and the com- mons, undertheauspicesof their leader, adjourned to the Brewer's Hall, where it was instantly and iinuiiimously resolved to make a solemn tender of their liberties and service, and to establish in his family an hereditary succession to the crown. Ilih resolution was executed next day. The bisliop of Copenhagen officiated as speaker for the clergy and commons. The king thankfully accepted their grant, and promised immediate relief and protection. The gates of the metropolis were shut; and the nobility, finding themselves divested of all their late hereditary coii^ieqiience, submitted with the best grace they could, to con- firm the king's supremacy and their own in- significance. Thus from motives of revenge, probably fermented by artful and designing courtiers, the people, with b rude and daring temerity, resigned their independence for ever, and in one fatal moment, changed the whole face of afiairs, made the crown hereditary, and the king absolute. It is happy indeed for the Danes, that ever since the year 1660, when this memo- rable revolution took place, few or no instances have occurred of abusing the despotic powers thus vested in the crown, which are at present, )>crliaps, more unlimited than those of any other monarch in Europe. The code of Danish laws is so peculiarly per- spicuous and concise, that the whole is com- prised in one volume. This celebrated work, which discovers an amazing fund of legislative w;i8dom, is composed witi. infinite simplicity, and written in the native language of the coun- try. It is divided into six books, and treats clearly, though briefly, of the proccedure of the courts of justice; of (H^clesiastical laws; of of- ficial and honorary law; of maritime and naval law; of property law; and of criminal law. By luearrs of a system thus formed on the viost ob- vious and equitable principles, the lowejt least intelligent easily understand their (lut\ ■ ^\\ when either injured or accused, are cna'bied'j plead their own cause. ** The town of Hamburgh, although itisna propcrlv belonging to Denmark, yet as it i been of late much subject to violence during tlJ present war on the continent, must be particular^ noticed. It was formerly the metropolis nl only of the district of Stormar, but of a|| Holstein, which is a part of Denmark, till it|,J came a free imperial city of that part ol 0^,1 many. It is large and very populous, IvineoJ the north side of the river Elbe, which hen forms the boundary of the king of Dcnmark'l dominions on the South. Haniburc^li lies partj on islands, and partly on the contiTient, liavjnj a very good harbour. The Ilauibnighers po3 sess a territory for twelve miles round, inwhici are several villages and fine seats. Cliarlemagi built a fort here, and erected a church, theonlL one in Hamburgh for three liii.ulrcd and fjM years. It has undergone many revolutions siid and is now greatly increased. Its slrocls aij spacious, and its houses, built witb brick, \m very high, making a grand appc.irauce. Tli| town was the second of the Hanseatic union, an/ one of the principal among them. Hiunbiiij being naturally strong, is as well fortified bvi as a place of its magnitude can well admit ol From its situation it has all possible advantaJ for trade, both foreign and domestic. Toii,7 time of peace, merchants of all nations rMrj whose goods are sent up the Elbe into Prusil and the heart of Germany. From llainburgl canal has been dug to the river Trava, for tij sake of a communication with Luhec and tq Baltic, without the trouble of going rouiui 1 mark; so that by an inland navigation of I five miles, they save a hazardous one by m i aeven hundred miles. Its trade is very coiisiucj able: for the Elbe, and many other navisal rivers falling into it, after a course througf some of the richest and hmst tradiug parts i Prussia, and other states, furnish this cilv will all the products and manufactures of Austrij Bohemia, and Dpper and Lower Saxonv. Tlf principal merchandize it exports, especially Great Britain, is linen of several cowiitrics ii^ sorts, well known in London; also great qiiai tities of linen yarn, rags for paper makers, ti plilif CftNMAHK, NORWAY, AND SWEDTlN. 48| laies vrircof iron, brauj and steel, clap-boards, I !ioe staves, and other timber, kid skins, and ' „ "The Hamburghers have a ^ood share in ^Greenland whale fishery, having generally, I '"peaceable tinips, fifty or sixty ships in this !lde annually employed. The government of this city is vested in the Lnate and three colleges of burghers, and is a Litture of the aiistocratical and democratical Hamburgh has long been celebrated for itn Ljre of the poor. They have a hospital for Lrpbans, the revenue of which is about sixty lliousand pounds sterling per annum. The niiin- flerof houses in the city are about thirty thou- Ifiiid. The churches are large and handsome Ifabrics, but open thoroughfares during the day, lind ill some are booksellers shops. The church IdfSt. Katharine has a stately front, with several lilaiues in niches^ and the steeple formed of seve- Iralianthorns diminishing to the last, which sup- InorU a spire like that of St, Bride's in Fleet lltrect, London, but much taller: round the [niiddle of its steeple is a gilt crown; and its Lrwn, which is reckoned the finest in Europe, llias six thousand pipes. Here is also an iwiiver- jiitv, which •' w\ill endowed. The senate house ■anil town hall is an ancient, largo, and noble Lriicturc; the exchange, which stands opp.isKe [initi is a fine building, but inferior to thai of ILondon. The city is nearly circular, and five or [til miles in circumference. The wall:? and forti- Iticalions that lie open to view, are planted with jruws of lofty trees; so that none of the houses 1(111 be seen from without, on that side of the Iwalls which are next Altcna. It has six gates, land three entrances by watr"/. A canal divides it jiiilothe Old and the New city. It is surrounded |by a high wall, with twenty-three bulwarks, {beside other out-works, and a very deep ditch: noble line with other works runs from the largest bason of the Alstcr to the Elbe, about llialfainilc above the town; and on the other Ifiile of the bason, about midway between that lund the Elbe, below the town, is.the star sconce, strong a fortification, that the king of Den- jinark with all his army could not take it in 1686, laner six weeks' siege. In the new town towards Ulcna, are large streets of mean houses, princi- pallv inhabited by Jews. The two channels of illie North and South Elbe, into which this river h is separated two or three miles above the city, forming several isles towards Marbourg, re-unite six miles below the city. Towards the etst it is washed by the little river Bille, and towards the North by the Alster, forming a very large bason without the town, »nd another within the walls; after which it turns the public mills, and passing by sluices and canals through the city, fall* into the Elbe. Here are eighty-four bridges, thirty-eight water mills, and six wind mills. It has also six large market places. Spring tides, especially with a N. W. wind, do frequent da- mage to the town, of which there were two melancholy instances in 1651 and 1719. The jurisdiction of Hamburgh comprises the bailiwics of Rutzenbuttel, Bilwerder, Ochsen- werder, and Eppendor. The four cantons of Altegame, Newgame, Kirchwerder, and Ros- lacke, belong to Hamburgh in common with tho city of Lubec; as does also a castle, with the small town and bailiwic of Hergedorf They put in a baiiiil' alternately, as also an equal num- ber of soldiers to garrison the castle. Here are several convents and cloisters, which having been secularized, are now Lutheran; the tenure of the foundation of one of these in particular is still continued, by oH'eriiig a glass of wine to every malefactor that is carried by it to execution. Hamburgh is two miles S. E. of Altena, 60 miles S. E. of the German Ocean, 43 miles S. W. of Lubec, and 58 miles N. E. of Bremen. Although this. town lies in the same degree of latitude with that of Lincoln in England, it is colder in winter, but hotter in summer than the latter city. Altena is a large and populous village of Storman, a province of Danish Holstein, situated, as above mentioned, two miles N. W. of Ham- burgh. Here a governor for the king of Den- mark resides. It is now indeed almost joined to Hamburgh by a row of houses on the Elbe, as Islington is to London. This village received its name, according to the Danish historians, from a ludicrous circumstance, which is as follows: Deputies from Hamburg, in a remonstrance to the king of Denmark against building this vil- lage too near their city, frequently made use of the words "dat i«all ta nae," i. e. " that is all too near;" the king taking particular notice of the three last monosyllables, said in a bantering manner to the deputies, he could not excuse him- self from going un with the building; but that. w it •■■; ;1 m ^ m r. 48^ NOWEL'S TRAVFXS IN to oblige them, lie would cull it by the muiio thc^ had given it, " All ta nae," which was cor- rupted into Altena. Formerly it was a place of refuge, not only fi)r insolvent debtors, but even for malefactors, that came from Hamburgh; and though it depended entirely on the trade of that city, yet it was out of its jurisdiction. A treaty wasconcluded here, in l()8l>, between the king of Denmark and the duke of llolstcin Gottorp about the partition of the duchy of llolslein The government of this town is vested in an upper president chosen by the king, the burgher-master, and corporation. The court of ajjpeal is held at Gluckstadt It is now estima- ted to contain upwards of three thousand houses, and thirty thousand inhabitants. Here are two cliurches for the Lutherans, tw o for the Calvinists, one for the Calvinist French, another for the Roman Catholics, and two for the Mcnonite churches, exclusive of other sects. The Jews licrc are numerous, and have a large synagogue; but pay two thousand ducats per annum pro- tection money. Here are three docks for building ships, and a'variety of manufactures are carried on. In 17 10 it lost two hundred houses by fire; and in 17 1'^ it was burnt by the Swedish army Under Steinbeck, About the same time it suft'ered very much by the plague. It was originally a village in conjunction with the lordship of Piuneburg; but in 1(510, coming with that lordship under thedomitiion of JVninark, it soon became a town, and in l()44 obtained a char'^r. The Danes would have fortified this town long ago; but the llamburghers, havii)" obtained a ^Vitnt of the emperors of German , -nat no fort sbould be built within two miles of them, would never permit it. Altena, however, is now the en)jiorium, or market, for the sale of goods brought by the Danish East India con»pany from the Indies. «;. Gluckstadt, which is 38 miles N. W. of Ham- burgh, and 36 miles N. W, of Altena, i.* u utrongly fortified town of Danish Holstein, on thff banks of the river Elbe, near the inilux of the river Rhyninto it. The emperor Ferdinand II. besieged this town two years in vain, principally owing to the assistance it received from the Danish fleet in the Elbe, for it cannot be taken unless blocked up by a fleet. The Danes usually keep in it a-garrison of two thousand foot. Hero are gevtral canals, one of w hich divides the town into two parts, and U intersected by nnoijifr the end of the market place, which is vervm ** nilicent. At one corner is the fjreat chuT where the Calvinists and Papists have ead*^' chapel. Its harbour is capable of reiei\iiin. ' royal navy, the Eiibe being here very wide A^J eep, iniul and safe. At the end of the canal riinni.. it from the town, is a tower built in tlie Tv»te 1 on piles, round which are platforms, with liatJ terics of cannon that command the Kibe, 'i'lJ town standing in a marshy bottom, there ii n | approaching it on the land side, but hv ;i -toM.! causeway about three quarters of a mile in lLiint|,i on the side of Krempe, (a town \\hu:\\ ^\^^A mid-way between Itzehoe and CiliaksiaiJt )| The king of Denmark attempted to obline alJ ships that pass up the Elbe to pay toll; but J this project he was opposed by allthe powers o1 Europe, particularly the Hamburirliors; aiJ although matters were accommodated, yet M duties demanded by his Danish niuji'sty vtcrchJ on; so that a heiivy loll is deinamjdd at thil town, and it was declared a free port in \',',n In this town the police is rigid, and the puiiijj ment for oflences singular, In some ma thieves are condenuicd to draw the dn«t curtj and are chained to them like Turkey galley slayHj Between (iluckstadt and Elmesborn t he cijiinir J is rendered very fertile by frequent inuiidiiiioiiJ of the Elbe. | Itzehoe is a small town, lying- on tim riifj Stor, Vhich abounds with fish, and lalls the Elbe at Gluckstadt. It/ehoe is Ij mile] N. E. of Gluckstadt, at the foot of a moiinlainl and is defended by an old custle. It? iiil.iibilaiiH enjoy a good trade t)y mean.s ot' its rivev TbJ place is in a flourishing condition, and its inlJ bitants daily inrrcHsing in ntunber. It is \eiJ well l^uilt, especially that part of it which id called the New town, and there is u church iiJ each. At Itzehoe there is a Lutheran iiunmn] for an abbess and nineteen ladies of quality, wliJ are not compelled to make any vowu, or to |itac- tise any Romish custom. Meldorp is 2i miles N. of Gluckstadt, andii the capital of Ditmarsh, a canton of Iloisteinj It is situated a little above the river Blil(l(>] (which falls into the German Ocean,) near mouth. Its church i» largo and beautiful. liaJ ore three market places, viz. the north, thc80ii,il)J and the ivest; with an excellent seminary IqiI DENMARK, NORWAY, AKD SWEDEN. 483 ng- on tim rivfj lijiifl' the classics and rhetoric, which was lerh a monastery. On account of this seat fleariiiiia; .y"""ff gentkmen from difterent parts ,. Pj,,,niuik are sent to it for education. It is l(,,it„ftlie judicial courts for the canton iu liich it stands, and is a place of some trade, 11)1 not so imich as when the Milde was naviga- ile for small vessels. Uendsborg is another town of Danish Ilolstein. ,'lieroad from Hamburgh N. W. to Gluckstadt, lodfrom Gluckstadt by Itzehoe N. E. to Rends- w, is through a charming country ; as is iike- „j(>tlie road which leads directly North from laiiiburgli to Reudsborg. That part which is led the Old Town is situated on an island rnwd hy tlie river Eydcr, which runs in two iranrlics through the town, and separates itself tills place in such a manner, that the branch ibovethc Old Town is called the Upper, and le main stream the Lower Eyder. That which knoffn by the name of the New T«>wii or icuewcrk lies on the other side of the Lower der, is regular and handsome, and has parti- jlar fortifications of its own, which environ (he Town in the form of a half moon. It is lell irarrisoncd ; and here is the royal armoury, lecirriaj^e house, and tiie granary, all of which ^c large and spacious buildings. A commercial lloge or board of trade was established at this Ln about seventy years ago. It consists of bout six hundred houses, and its inhabitants ma peculiar franchises. It owes its name and ligin to ilie ancient castle of Reinoldsburg, lliich was erected by count Adolphus III. iu 0, and which was repaired and improved in le next century by Count Gerhard the Great. I Kill is l':t miles K. of Rcndsborg, 50 miles ,E. of Gluckstadt, uiiil .")8 miles N. of 11am- lirjli. This towH is situated on a bay of the illic, in Holstein, and is a place of considor- llc trade. Its harbour is excellent, and is much »quciitcd by shipping from Germany, Sweden, liij all other parts of the Baltic, and is a Ipiilous and wealthy town. Both the ♦own Id the harbour are defended by a castle or a lishbourinir liiH. On the cast side cC this Istlethe set washi'S its walls, and on the other |e of the ii'ty io .i delightful, though woody |untrv. A g irdci facing the castle is the only bee by which Kiel has a communicuiiun with fraain laud. This garden lying along the sea iVoi,. II. No. CV. side, is above two hundred paces broad, con- sisting of u terrace walk; level with the founda- tion of the castle, from which there is a small descent to parterres full of flowers, and adorned with a fountain and wilderness: and this lcad« to others, fi'om which there is a little ascent to a second terrace. It suftered greatly in the wars between Denmark and Sweden. Here the duke of Ilolstein Gottorp founded an university in 166.5, which had many learned professors. It is divided into the New and Old Town, the former of which is the largest and nuist pleasant, the streets of which arc planted with rows of trees. The old town, which stands on a kind of peninsula, is fortified with deep ditches; and ou the harboifr are flne walks with trees. Here is a palace which faces the north side of the town. At Kiel are several good buildings, particularly ^ large church and hospital, which before the re- formation was a Franciscan monastery. The town is much enriched by its annual fair, which is held for three weeks after Twelfth-day, and is fre- quented by multitudes of all ranks, especially the nobility of the duchies of Sleswick and Ilolstein. Vast sums of money are here negociated, and I payments according to previous contract punctu- 1 allv made; insomuch that he whodoes not keep ] his credit at this fair, is looked upon as iu a state of bankruptcy, and is liable to punishuicnt as well as disgrace. During this fair eveu Ham- burgh is, as it were, deserted, every body hurry- ing hither to pay rents, renew leases, or let out money Ui interest, &c. by all which means the town is bO fu'l, that it is a diflieult task to pro- cure a lodging iu it. The Old aud New towns are joined by a bridge, at the end of which is a draw-bridge and a gate, where a guard is con- stantly kept. Thcie was a project on foot some years ago to cut a navigable cauul Trom the river Eyder to this town, by which shi»»s of two hun- dred tons were proposed to be carried iinuiediate- ly from the German Ocean into the Baltic, with- out going round Jutland aud through the Sound. This was intended to be done by the c/ar Peter the Great, who stipulated that for this service Russian ships should not be obliged to pay toll to Denmark; but on that monarch's death the design was laid aside. At the mouth of the har- bour is the small fort of Christian Preiss, which entirely commands the entrance. About six miles N. of Kiel, but in Sleswick, 6 1 is ■If :! m i' • :-:t ivM ,%. ^n%. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I UifnA |2.5 |50 '■^" ■■■ u Hi li£ 12.0 us 1 L25 j^ 1.6 ^ 6" ► Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST 1V«AIN STftEET WEBSTER, K V W<90 (716) 873-450^ '^ i'^ 4:84? NOWELS TRAVELS IN i; Ekerol fordo, which is a well inhabited and flourishing place, being almost surrounded with water and situated on the same bay as Kiel is, so that its harbour is both capacious and suQicicntly deep. Formerly it was a pretty large staple, but its navigation seems now to be on the decline. The streets are broad, and planted with rows of trees. The town has suffered very much by fire. Sleswick is 15 miles N. of Rendsborg, and 23 miles N. W. of Kiel. It is the capital of the duchy of^Sles'svick, and takes its name from being situated on the Weick or gulph of Sley. The duchy of Sleswick is about eighty miles long and forty-four broad, having Jutland on the N. the Baltic on the E. Ilolstein on the S. and the German Ocean on the W. It is watetcd by several rivers, which in most places render it beautiful and fertile. The eastern parts of the duchy lie considerably higher than the wcslern; and in the latter particularly are many extensive and fruitful plains, which produce great quan- tities of all kinds of grain. ' The nobility of Sles- wick are very rich, and the common people en- joy more independence than in any other of the Danish dominions. The cities in this duchy have their own magistrates, altogether independent ef those in the country; but the governor-general for the time being '" also president or chief judge in all the separate towns. The town of Slcswi:-k , was formerly a place of great trade, where mer- chants fronri all the ports of Europe were to be found. Many are the revolutions it has under- gone, and various the efforts it has made to over- come its numerous misfortunes. It has more than once been plundered and ravaged by the sword; and in 1447 was entirely consumed by a dreadful conflagration. It recovered, however, in part at least, from all these disasters, and was in a flourishin<; condition till the removal of the ducal court, in the beginning of the last century; 80 that even at the present day mapy of its prin- cipal buildings are destitute of inhabitant's Its streets appear desolate, its markets forsaken, and its shipping annihilated. In former times a cause- way, leading from the west end of the quay to fleveral places, lay on the south side of the town, and was defended by the strong castle of Jurgen- burg, which is now in ruins. At the end of this mole, which is now only to be seen at low water, stood the Castle on the main land, where Abel, when duke of Sleswick, resided; who, on ascend- ing the throne by the murder of his brother, be- in III is III an stowed it on the Augustine monks, by ^Ji^^ was converted into a convent, and stood wL the orphan house now stands. From Sleswick to Flensborg the distance 21 miles N. Flensborg is a large and Iiandsoi town, situated at the bottom of the bay of Flen! which is twenty-four miles inland from ( Baltic. It is a fine haven, where ships oft greatest burden may ride with the most corapli safety, and even come up to the warehouses, i the land side it is encompassed with monntaiii upon one of which, near the suburbs, is a east commanding the bay on that side. Uere four churches. The town of Flensbor capital of a bailiwic called Angelen or Eiigelanl which is the country of the English Saxons Angles, who came over into Britain, and gav it the name of England. Tonder is 24 miles W. by N. of Sleswick, is an inland town on the river Widaw, whj had formerly a harbour that has been for seun vears choaked up; but it is defended by a sma fort. Hadersley, or Hadersleben, is a sea- port (oh of Sleswick, 32 miles N. of Sleswick. It watered on the W. by the lake of Haderslcbc upon the E. by the gulph of Haderslebiion which is so shallow near the town, that ships burden are obliged to anchor two miles ( This gulf, into which the lake empties itself, very narrow, and falls into the Baltic about ti miles E. of the town. Hadersleben is wr^ll biii its streets being broad, and its houses uiiitorn It had formerly a castle, which stood on the to of a neighbouring hill, but has been long mih demolished, and a new one built, called Han! burg, which stands between the lake and gi above mentioned. On the W. of this casi stands the new town, which is separated froi the old one by a small stream, and is better bui than the old town. The country in its vicioil abounds with corn-fields, and cvccllent pastun which, with the fish caught in the lake ai neighbouring gulf, render this a very floorishii place. This place gave birth to king Fredeti II. in 1534, and Frederic III. in 1009. Haden leben is the canital of a considerable prefeclor ship, which is divided into the seven districlso Ilabersleberharde, Tusterupharde,. Gramhardf Froesharde, Kalshinhardc, Giddingharde, an Northerangstorharde. Colding, or Kolding, is a small town in lb DENMARK, NORWAY, AND SWEDEN, 485 hailifficofKoldinghuus, and diocese of Ripen, 111) miles N. of Hadersleben. It st^i ds on the Itiver Truethis, or Koldiuger-aue, which falls lioto a bay that extends itself from the Liitle iBelt. I' ''^* ^^^' '^^'"S situated between tvo Luntains; is a pretty old place; has a parish Ithurch, a rich hospital with a church of its own, liLilin school haudsomsly endowed, and a har- Lur, which by the neglect of its inhabitants is Lw clioaked up; so that ships of small burden Iwlycan at present resort to it. On the N. W. Iiideoftlietow'ii stands on an eminence the castle |((Kol(linghuus, anciently called Oernsborg, i. e. lEigle Castle. Among its greatest curiosities is Itbe giant tower, built by Christian IV. which is [at at top, and surrounded with a stone balcony, , range, at the four corners of which is a stone aire seven feet high. This castle has a church lolitsowp. The air here is reckoned very fine y lieslthy, Mherefore Christian 111. made it lis usual residence, and here he died in 1559*. Aarhtms is 50 miles N. E. of Colding, and 43 jiibS, E. of Wiburg- It is (lie capital of a kistopric of the same name, which is 15 geo- graphical miles in length and between eight and line in breadth. This bishopric is the best of til the Jutland dioceses: the soil is uncommonly Ituitfiil, and vast quantities of corn are annually ^ported. Here are many navigable bays, lakes ■bounding with fish, good rivers und streams, 1 spacious forests ; the diocese c(>nlain8 about nly seats of the principal nobility. The town ^fAarhuus lies low, in a beautiful plain between Ibesea, and an inland lake, from which last the Irater is conveyed, by means of a pretty broad inal, through the town. It is entirely open, f, and populous; has two market places, iro principal churches, an university, a palace (he bishop, a tree cathedral school of six and a well-endowed hospital. The Ci«- dral church is a handsome building, begun in lie year It^Ul, and contains many beautiful jjonuments. The inhabitants of this city carry IS good trade. The harbour, which is situated (the mouth of the river Gude, is safe and com- jiodious, but not remarkably large ; and, at cer- I seasons, the water in it is not of a sufficient Colding is principally rcmarkabit; for the toll paid at ^e bridge orer the A.ue, for all foreign goods carried in « that way; also for all black cattlo and horses M ga into the duchy of Slcg^TicK or farjtlior. Tho num. depth for large vessels. At this place is the usual ferry to Knllundburg in Zealand. The town of Wiburg is ^',1 miles N. VV. of Aarhuus, -and 38 S. W. of Alborg. A^iburg i* a considerable town, is the capital of the bishop- ric of Wiburg, and is remarkable for being tho seat of the chief court of juiilice in Jutland. The hall where the council assembles has the archives of the country, which escaped the de- vastation occasioned by the drsadful iire (hat happened in 1726, and which burnt the cathedral church, that of the Black Friers, the town' house, and the bishop's palace; but they have all been rebuilt more magnificently than before. It is seated on the lake Weter,- on a kind of peninsula, at the southern exfrcmity of the lake. Alborg, or Aalborg, is 38 miles N. by E, of Wiburg, and 65 N. by W. of Aarhuus. It is the capital of a. bishopric of the same name. It is called Aalborg, or Eal-tovvn, from the vast quantities of eels which are taken there. It is seated on a branch of the LymHord lake, about 20 miles from the sea. Here is an exchange for merchanls, and a safe and deep harbour. The inhabitants carry on a considerable trade in herrings and corn, and have several good manu- factories of guns, pistols, saddles, and gloves. The island , of Funen, which is one of the ibanish islands, has the Great Belt on the E. the Baltic on the S. the Little Belt on the W. which separates it from Jutland and Sleswick in Den- mark Proper^ and the small islaiid of Samsoe on the N. This k the most fruitful country belonging to Denmark, having a good and well cultivated soil. It consists of small and very fertile hills, some of them woody, and is in general well peopled. From Funen are exported great quan- tities of corn, large herds of black cattle, aiid abundance of hogs. This is an appendage to the king of Denmark's eldest son, and its government is the most considerable in Denmark. Odensee, which is 85 miles W. by S. of Copenhagen, is the capital of Funen, and is the see of a bishop. Its cathedral church is a remarkable building. The Danish language is spoken here in its greatest purity; and in 1538 a diet was held at this place, in which the reformation ef this kingdom was her of oxen alono, which are annually driven through Colding, is computed at fort^ thousand head, for each of which a rix doUac is always csactcd. settled. \\v .ifM! «IU^!;^,|- rali ■a il:^ii li ]h\ i-^l vt 48(S NOWEL'S TRAVELS IN setiled. There are four churches in this town, and the best beer in Denmark is brewed here.. On the sea coast of the isle of Ftinen is Faaborg, which is 28 miles S. W. of Odeniee: it lies in a low ami fruitful spot, and its inhabitants carry on a good trade in corn and all sorts of provisions, but the harbour is rather indifferent. Here is a pretty good hospital. The town has suH'ered much from accidental fires, and from burning and plundering by the enemy, particular- ly the Swedes. Not far from fhis town, at the church of Home, is a ferry to the isle of Alsen; and in the bay near the town are several small islands. Alsen is another island belonging to Denmark, of which the principal town is Sonderberg, which is about J8 miles E. yy N. of Flensborg. Alsen belongs to the duchy of Sleswick, and is near the main land, from which it is separated by a narrow strait called Alsensund. This island is upwards of 12 miles in length and about six broad. It is populous and fruitful, being ii rich and pleasant spot, having an exuberance of all sorts of grain, wheat alone excepted. It pro- duces excellent fruit and vegetables; and has no want of woods, in which wild game of various kinds are to be met with. Here are several fresh water lakes, which afford abundance of iish. The island of Alsen is divided into the Suder and the Norder-Hardc, or the jurisdictions of isoii- derburg and Norburg. The island of Langeland, which receives its name from its long form, is situated in the Great Belt, S. E. of Funen, and W. of Laaland: it is 32 miles long, and about six miles where broad- est. The soil is fruitful throughout, abounding in wheat, rye, and barley, of which great quan- tities are annually exported. It is under the jurisdiction of the governor of Funen, and con- tains but one royal bailiwic, namely, Traiickia, to which belong Norre and Sonderherred ; and in each division are seven parishes. Here is also n fort called Tranckiar, where is kept a strong garrison. Round this island are three smaller ones, viz. Omme, Agger, and Echolm. The principal town in this island is Budkioping^, which is rather a small place. Laalandc is another island belonging to Den- mark, which has Langeland on the \V. F-.lster on the E. and Zealand on the N. E. This island is ail Icrw ground, which i(s name imports. 3(1 Its greatest extent from S. E. to N. W i> miles, and its greatest breadth from N. to S^' about 15 miles. Il produces all sorts of con, '* abundance, particularly wheat, with which t supplies Copenhagen and other places in tl' kingdom. This island is divided into three di* tricts orbailiwics, viz. those of Ilalsted, Aalliolm and Marieboe-Kloster. The inhabitants breed but few cattle, because they find husbandry niure advantageous; yet from the soil lying low and damp, the air is rather unhealthy. Of all tlig inhabitants here, the ministers are mostly in tbe easiest circumstances, on account of their plenij, ful income. About the middle of this island there is a lake, on the North of which lay nunnery of Mariqboe. Besides noblemen's seats, here are four towns and a village, viz. Na^kow Rodbye, Marieboe, Nystadt, and Saxkiobing. ' The island of Falster lies east of Laalande from which it is separated by a narrow strait' and is in the diocese of Funen. The soil is o the same nature as that of Laalande. Itisabou twenty miles long, and its mean breadth aboii nine. It has been by some writers called thi orchard of Denmark, from the vast quantities fruit which it produces; and it abounds will] wild game. The whole of this island belongs i the queen dowager, and is divided into two dis- tricts, viz. the southern, consisting of thirteei parishes, and the northern, which contains fifteen. Its chief place is Nycoping, or Nve kiobing, or Stobbekiobino-, which is situaled6( miles S. by W. of Copen jagcn, and isdefendei by a strong fort. The island of Seeland, Zeeland, or Zealaiid, is the largest and most fertile island of \k Baltic Sea, and is the seat of the Danish go- vernment. On the east it has the Sund, w separates it from Sweden. Its groulest leiigi from N. to S. is about seventy niili's, and ii mean breadth, from E. to W. is about fifty milc! The land here is pretty low, and has but few hills, though there are many woods and forest which take up almost a fourth part of the inland which abounds with wild game, excellent pai ture, and plenty of grain, especially barley, oals and rye. Round the coast are several deep baji some of which run many miles inland. Tlies( and the adjacent sea are exuberant in fish, asari the fresh water lakes and rivers which wash tin island. Although tbe air of Seeland is tliickan DENMARK, NORWAY, AND SWEDEN. 487 m \Lg9X yet, >t i' observedj that many persons [J^jto^ great age. On the coast are several if. and commodious harbours, particularly Fopenliagen, Callundborg, &c. rgneiihsgeu, -called in old writings Hiifnia, ••tbe capital of Seeland^ and is the metropolis of DeDDiark. It> name, Copenhagen, literally sig- lej the Merchants' Port, and seems to have itrioated from the convenience and utility of harbour, which is equally beautiful and ca- jous. The city is situated upon a fine bay of ..Baltic Sea, near the strait called the Sund, ii'tbe eastern shore of the island. Copenhagen originally but a mean little village of fisher- buts, vvbich, by the assistance of the of Roeschilde, gradually rose to mag- jtude and consequence. In process of time it constituted a city, And made the royal seat if tlie Danish sovet .^ns. The houses were irincrly of wood, but in the year 1738 almost je whole were re'luced to ashes by fire; and iJDcethat time they have been more sumptuously md securely built of free stone. The present perb palace was then erected at an immense ipenre, and the town embellished with various ile pointed by the commander in chief of his Britannic majesty's forces.'* ■f Besides getting; possession of the town and citadel of Copenhagen, tho docli.yards, storehouses, &c. &c. the English took eighteen ships of the line, vh. Christian the Seventh, S6 guns, built in 1803; Neptune, 8t guns, built in 1789; Waldemaar, 84 guns, built in 1798 ; Princess Sophia Frederica, 74 guns, built in 1775 ; Justice, 74 f(uns, built in 1777; Heir Apparent Frederic, 74 guns, l>nilt in 178?;' Crown Prince Frederic, 74 guns, built in 1781; Fupn, 74 guns, built in 1787; OJen, 74 guns, built in 1788; Three Crowns, 74 guns, built in 1789; 9kiuld, 71 guns, built in 1702; (^ VA'^nexiT carry on a considerable trade^ I ■ j( j^ famous both en account of its being the I licc bv \^hich the Swedes and Norvvegians ILally P*** '"*® Denmark, and for the toll I kich i« P"'^ '•^'"*' ^- every ship that sails litfli the Sound. The celebrated castle of u„ijerg stands an the north side of Elsineur, on EC narrowest part of the entrance into the Bultie, I yfM certainly intended to command the I lid, of the Sound, which is here n'-t more IrtaD lialf a luile wide. This is one ol A\e best U strongest fortresses in Denmark, and is in jucellcnt oDiulition. It is a fiiie Gotliic chateau, l^d was built by Christian IV. and was often Ldethe seat of the royal residence. It is here Litbeships whi^h enter the Baltic areobliged to Laicto and pay toll. It is built in the form of a guare^ and within is a fine quadrangle. The tur- itlsat the corners are very superb, and inthemost improved style of Gothic ardiitecturc*. There is a little hunting^ seat or palace about a quarter of a mile from EUineur, whither the king makes excursions frequently for a few hours in the sum- mer. Nothing worth seeing distinguishes the building, but the prospect from the roof i> beautiful beyond description. It looks down on the town of Elsineur and the castio of Cronberg,. and commands beyond these a view of the Sound and the coast of S>Veden to a great distance. Callundborg, or Calenberg, formerly called Herwig, is a good town, and stands at the bot- tom of a bay which opens in the Great Belt. It is 38 miles W. of Roeschilde, and 60 iniles W. of Copenhagen. Originally this town consisted of a few fishermen's huts, but it experienced the bounty of the bishops of Roeschilde, who made it a city, and beautified it with a castle, a churchy and other public buildings. At this place the gulph forms a safe and commodious harbour, by which means the town enjoys ar pretty good trade. SECTION II. heral Description of Mnoay ; its LengtT and Breadth, Government, Mountains, Cataracts, Lakes, Forests, Climate, Air, Soil, Minfs, Language, and Religion — The prineipat Tuians tyT Xormy described. _ • MIE country of Norway is about a thousand miles in length, from Lindesnaes (the Naze) itlieSoutli, to P^orth Cape at the extremity of j^iniDBrk in the North; and its breadth, from |lie frontiers of Sweden Westward to Cape Statt, labout two hundred and thirty ; but the country [rows gradually narrower towards the North, KODiucli that in softie places it does not exceed jixty miles. On the South it is bounded by the kager-Rack, or Categat, the entrance into the Baltic; on the cast it is separated from Sweden 1} a long chain of mountains; and on ^,he West Ind North it is washed by the German Ocean or Nortli Sea. The coast of Nbrway extends above Ibtirtecn hundred miles, and is studded with an OQieDge number of islands, which afibrd habita- I * The late unfortunate qurcn Matilda, sister to George pe Third, king of Great Britain, was confined for some me in this castle as a state prisoner. Slie was brought kieoDtiie 17th of January, 1773, when the royal apart. tion to a vast quantity of fishermen and pilots> and pasture for a few cattle. These island* form an infi^nite number of narrow channels, and a natural barrier of rocks, which renders Nor- way inaccessible to the naval power of its enemies. If any attempt of this kind were made it would be extremely hazardous, as the shore is bold> steep, and impending; so that close to the rocks, the depth of the sea amounts to one, two, or three hundred fathoms.' The perils of the North iSea arc moreover increased by sudden storms, sunken rocks, violent currents, and dreadful whirlpools. The most remarkable vortex on- this coast is called Moskoe-strom, from the small island Moskoe, belonging to the district of Lofoden, in the province of Nordland. Norway mcnts were by no means iit for licr reception ; the colonel commandant'thcrcfore, with equal huntanity and poUteaesf^ resigned bis own to hermajeity. m ^■.■'- i;l :..;i: ^'■\y 'l\ rl i ;(l;- ;ihi ^■i' ! I i' i \ \.:i ■ )\ I '.■ !■ •t y. i-M. 490 NOWEL'S TRAVKLS IN ii divided into tlie four governmenia of Agger- huus. Bergen, Drontheiiu, and Wardhuus. The grcnt chain of Norway mountains, running from North to South, ia called indiflerently Rudfield> Suileficld, Skarsfield, and Scoreberg. The height and breadth of this extensive chain likewise vary in difierent parts. To pass the mountain llardangerj a person must travel about seventy English miles, whereas Filefield is about fifty over. . This last mountain rises about two miles and a half in perpendicular height; but Oofrefield is reckoned the highest mountain in Europe. The river Drivane winds along the side of it in a serpentine form^ so as to be met nine times by those who trKvel the winter road to the other side of the chain. The bridges are thrown over roar- iug cataracts, and are but indiiferently fastened to the steep rocks on either side; so that the whole exhibits a very dreadful appearance, sufficient to deter the traveller from hazarding such a dangerous passage: fur which reason people generally prefer the road over Filefield, which is much more tedious. This, however, is the post road for the king's carriages. The way is distinguished by posts fixed at the distance of two hundred paces from each other, that in snowy or dark weather the traveller may not he bewildered. For the convenience of resting and refreshment, there are two mountain stoves or kouscs, maintained at the expence of the public, and furniBhed with fire, light, and kitchen utensils. Nothing can be more dreary and dismal than these mountains, which are covered with eternal snow, and where neither house, tree, nor living creature is to be seen, but here and there a solitary rein-deer, and perchance a few wander- ing Laplanders. Norway abounds with fresh water lakes; the principalof which are, Rysvand in Nordland, Snaasen, Selboe, Great and Little Mioes, Slirovand, Sperdille, Rand, Vestn, Saren, Modum, Lund, Norsoe, Huidsoe, Farisvand, and Oeyevand: all these are well stocked with * In 1702 the seat of the family of Borge, near Frederic, stadt, being a noblo edifice, witli lofty towers aiid battle, mcnts, auddcniy sunk into an abyss a hundred fathoms Uoep, which was instantly filled by a piece of water three hundred ells in length, and about half as broad. f In the year 1710, seren hundred Swedes, who intend, ed to attack Drontheim, perished in the snow on the mountains of Rudenor Tydel, which separates Jemptland in Sweden from the diocese of Drontheim in Norway. A company ot two handred Norwegian sledge mou, under I'OWl fish, and are navigable for large vessel?. \v have been formerly carried on upon these jnla*'] seas, in some of which are small floating island or pdrcels of earth with trees on them, amJ*! from the mainland, and probably preserved '' compact masses by the roots of trees, ghrui" and grass, interwoven iii the soil*. Ofallth' waterfalls in Norway, that of Sarp is the mo dangerous for its height and rapidity. The cur rent drives seventeen mills, and roars with sue violence, that the water, being dashed and con muted among the rocks, rises in the form of nin where a beautiful rainbow maybe always see^ when the sun shines. In ancient times thii cataract was made use of for the execution traitors and other malefactors; they were t!ir down alive, that they might be dashed in njcci, on the points of the rocks. Great part of Nor way is covered with foreats of wood, which con stitute the principal article of commerce in thi country. They chiefly consist of fir and piut for which great sums are received from foreigner.) who export an immense number of masts, iieani* planks, and boards. The climate of Norway is various in difllron parts of the kingdom, At Bergen the \viiiter so moderate, that the rcias are always open u practicable both to mariners and h'^Rhermcn, e.\ cept in creeJis and bays, that reach far into i country towards Filefield, when the keen \. wind blows from the land. On the K side Norway, from the.frontiersof Swedento FileP'' the cold generally sets in about the middle October with great severity, and lasts till tli middle of April; ^luring which interval lli waters are frozen to a very considerable thicknei and t^iB face of the country is covered wil snowf. The cold is stilly more intense iiilh part of Norway called Finiuark, situated in th frigid zone, near the polar circle. Butiftb winter is generally cold, the summer is often el cessively hot in Norway. The rays of the Major Kmahus, found them all fro/cn to death on tl ridge of the mountain, where thuy, had been surpryedli a storm accompanied with snow, hail, and cxtreutu col Some of these unhappy victims appeared sitting, sunieljii and others kneeling in a posturu of prayiiii;. Tbcyha cut in pieces their muskets, and bunial tlio liii!e woo they afforded. The generals Labarro and Xoegz losttht liros; and of the whole corps, consisting uriginalljn ten thousatid men,, no mor« than two thousand livu hniidn survived this dreadful catastrophe. am :i .,' DENMARK, NORWAY, AND SWEDEN. ^H rttwberated from the sideB of the mountains. a to render the weather close and sultry in rtlliwJ hcsides the sun's absence below the i/ 40 short, that the atmosphere and intsins have notthne to cool. : The heat in so it that vegetation is remarkably quicL ley it sown, grows, ripens, and is reaped in iipsce of six weeks or two months. The I day at Berffen consists of nineteen hours, junrisii»g at half an hour after two and setting half after nine. The shortest day does not ijx hours; for the sun rises at nine in the injne, and sets at tlKee in the afternoon. In wioning of the year, the day-light increases Ji remarkable celerity; and, at the approach winter, decreases in the same proportion. In ler one may reed and write at midnight by _jgbt of the sky. In the district of Tromesen> the extremity of Norway, the sun is continually liiew Bt midsummer. The air of Norway is lerally p*>re and salubrious. On the sea it, indeed, it is rendered moist by vapours eihaiations; but in the midland parts of (country, towards the mountains, the climate Udry, that meal may be kept for many years, bout being worm-eaten or damaged in the least. > inhabitants have no idea of sickness, except jtt is occasioned by excesses. The winds that iiicfly prevail on the western coast are those that from the S. whereas on the other side of ^ilefield, the wiuds that produce and continue bard frosts are always northerly. In the ner, there is a kind of regular trade-wind I (be coast of Bergen. In the forenoon the sea to be cooled with a wiesterly breeze, bkh continues till midnight. Then the land- Kze begins from the £!. and blows till about I in the morning. The coast is likewise sub- t to sudden squalls and storms. Hurricanes Onetimes rise -at sea, and in these latitudes the bcnomcnon called « water-spout is not uncom- ilon. The fresh water of Norway is not very |h( or pure. The soil varies in diiferent places wording to the situation of rock or valley. mountains here, as> in every other country, chare and barren ; but the earth washed down om them by the rains, enriches atid fertilizes !vaiHe!). There is also clav found in different iris of this kingdom, of which the inhabitants kgiii to make earthen ware. In a cold country \i Norway, roughened with rocks and pioua- V0L.II.N0. CV. tains, interspersed with b«gs, »n4 eovep-ed, with forests, we cannot expect to find agriculture in perfection. The ploughed lands, in respect to mountuins. woods, meadows, and wastes, d9 uot exceed the proportion of one to eighty; ao that the whole country dx>es not produce corn sufficient to maintain above half the number of its inhabitants. The kingdom is moreover visited by some unfavourable years, in which the sun - seems to have lost his genial power; the vege- tables are stunted, the trees hud and bloom, yet bear no fruit, and the grain, though it r%es, wilt yet produce nothing but empty ears and straw. This calamity, however, raroly occurs ; and, ia general, the cultivated parts of Norway yield plentiful crops of excellent rye, barley, and oats. Pease are likewise propagated in this country, together with wheat, buck-wheat, hops, hemp, and flax, but not t» any considerable advantage. The meadows are well stored with pasturage for sheep and cattle, and tlie fields are productive o£ those vegetables which are common in other northern countries. Within these eighty years, the people of Norway have bestowed some atten- tion on the culture, of gardens, which in former times was so neglected, that cities and towni weresupplied with leeks, cabbage, and roots, from England and Holland- At present, however, the Noirwegians raise their own culinary and garden roots and vegetables, which thrive there as well as in any other country. The scurvy being a disease that prevails along the sea coast, nature has scattered upon it a variety of herbs, efllicarious in the cure of that distemper, parti- cularly a plant called erich's-grass, that grows in great plenty on the island of Northland; from whence the people of the Continent fetch away boat-toads of it to be preserved in barrels, as a succedaneum for cabbage. The common fruit trees thrive tolerably well in Norway, the inha- bitants of which have plenty of cherries, apples, and pears. Some kinds of plums attain maturity, which is seldom the case with grapes, apricots, and peaches. But even the apples and* pears that ripen here are summer fruits; that which grows till the winter seldom coming to perfection. Of the trees tliat grow wild in Norway, the principal are the fir and the pine. The first yields an annual revenue of a million of rix dollars, if we include the advantages resulting from the sawmills and the masts, one of which 6L ^ ' . last i\-''-k i !■ !'■ I • ! i .. I • ,♦ Hi; 1W: a m'Q n. , ' t :>' ,t !ft ;.j 49a NOWF.rS TRAVELS IN last Iiosbeen known to sell for two hundred rix dollars. The red fir treeDvliich grows r:\ the mountains, is so rich in turpentine, us to be al- most incorruptible. Even a hundred years after the trunk of the fir tree has been cut down, the peasants burn the roots for tar, which is a very profitable commodity. In the fens, the resin of the fir tree is by nature transformed into a sub- stance which may be called Norway frankincense. Norway likewise produces some forests of oak, which 18 found to be excellent for ship building. Hazles grow here in such abundance, that a hundred tons of the nuts are annually exported from Bereen alone. A great diversity of stones is found in Norway, some of which are of a surprising figure. Several mountains consist chiefly of a brown pebble, which decays with «age. In some places the grey and black pebbles are intermixed with iron, copper, black lead, silver, and gold. In Norway are inexhaustible quarries of ex- cellent marble: Gold has formerly been found ill a small quantity in the diocese of Christiansand, and coined into ducats. There is at present a very considerable silver mine wrought at Kongs- burg on the accoun* ""d risk of his Danish majt'sty: the ore is < singly rich, but inter- rupted in such a mann^ .hat the vein is often lost. Many masses of pure silver have been found; and among the rest, one piece weighing five hundred and sixty pounds, preserved in (be royal museum at Copenhagen. Such is the rich- ness of these mines, that the annual produce amount.s in value to a ton and a half in gold. About five thousand people are daily employed, and earn their subsistence, in those stupendous works. Other silver mines are prosecuted at Jarlesberg, but not to the same advantiige; and h^re the ore is mixed with lead and copper. In many parts of this country copper-mines have been discovered; but the principal, and perhaps the richest in all Europe, is at Raraas about a hundred English miles from Dronthiem. This work yields annually about eleven hundred ship- pounds of pure copper, the foundries belonging to it consume yearly about ten thousand lasts of coals, and five hundred fathoms of wood. The next in importance is the copper work at Lykkon, about !20 miles from Drontheim. A third mine is carried on at Indset or Quickne, at the distance of 30 miles froi)(i the same place; and here they precipitate the copper from \U mmi struum, by means of iron. There is a fouT copper-work at Silboe, about ^ mild dirt from Drontheim, although the least considtr h of the four. Other copper-mines of Icgg not. worked in difl'erent parts of the kingdom i*' is still in greater plenty, and was the first J! wrought in this country. Many hundred thou sand quintals are annually exported, chieiiv' bars, and part of it in stoves, pots, kettles a' cannon; the national profit arising from t^ metal is estiijnated at about three hundred thoii sand rix dollars. There is a species, called mooi iron, found in large lumpa among the roorasm of this the peasants make their own domett tools and utensils, such as knives, scythes u axes. The lead mixed in the silver ore'ii article of small importance in Norway; yetioi mines of this metal have been lately opened in| district of Soloer, by the proprietors of t copper-work at Oudal. A vitriol work bi been begun near Kongsburg: the mines vie great plenty of sulphur; which, however, tl Norwegians will not take the trouble to nieltai depurate, because imurense quantities are fouL at a cheaper rate in the island of Iceland, Allui is found between the slate-flakes near Clirisiiai in such plenty, that works have been set up ft refining this mineral, though they have notn brought it to any degree of transparent)'. Hi Danish majesty has established salt works in tb peninsula of Valoe, about six English niih from Tonsbcrg, where this mineral is extracte in large quantities from the sea water. Mid Danish, English, Scotch, Dutch, and Germi families have settled in Norway, and now fw no inconsiderable part of the trading peopk but the original inhabitants are the descendinl of those ferocious Normanni, who harassed il most all the coa'sts of Europe with piratical ot naments in the eighth, ninth, and tenth centuri( They speak the same language as that which used in Denmark, though ^their original tongn is the dialect now spoken in Iceland. The profess the Lutheran religion, under an ircl bishop established at Drontheim, with foi suffragans; namely, of Bergen, Staflancr, Hid mer, and Christiana. By the union of Calnui the two kingdoms of Norway and Denmark ve united under one monarch, the viceroy resida the capital, and presides in the supreme court, I »lii( NORWAY, DftNMATlK, AND SWKDFN. 40$ BOt ich •PP'*^' "''' made from the subordinate ' jj^fjudicature. The Norwegians are gene- well formed, tail, sturdj, and robust, ve hardy, honesty hospitable, aqjd ingenious; iav>ff0' rash, quarrelsome, and liHgious. P^gggnti never employ any handicraftsmen neceMtiries to themselves and families. The ians have evinced their valour aud ■Jjty in a thousand different instances. The jjntry was always distracted by intestine quar- I, ^hicb raged from generation to generation. Cieo tbe farmers stand upon their punctilios, Icbailenge one another to single combat with koives. On such occasions they hook _elTei together by their belts and fight until B of them is killed or mortally wounded. The jilily and merchants of Norway fare sumptu- jjy; but the peasant lives with the utmost jperance and frugality, except at festivals: icoiDinon bread is made of oatmeal, rolled into thin cakes, like those used in Scotland. itjoetof scarcity, they boil, dry, and grind jbirk of the fir-tree into a kind of flour which ley mix with oatmeal: the bark of the elm-tree lined in the same manner. [Chriitiansand is the capital of the diocese of .Bwne name in Norway, where the diocesan ptmin and bishop have their residence. It ilet its name from Christian IV. king of Den- irk.and the large sandy beach upon which it is lilt. It is 2iO miles N. W. from Copenhagen, 155 miles N. W. from Runberg, the nearest ^WD to it, on the opposite side of the Skager ick, in Denmark Proper. The town is built k I quadrangular form, has broad and regular Wto, eood houses; and a town bailiff or magis- Itte. It is commodiously situated, for on three lit ii surrounded with fresh and salt water, on the fourth side with fields and partly uotains. In 17^ the church with the greater t of the town was burnt by an accidental fire, lit it it was shortly after rebuilt. IStavanger is a town on the western coast of lorway, in the government of Christiansand, IdUmN. W. of -Christiansand. It stands on louthern shore of the bay of Bukkefiord, hicb is very large and fiill of s(nall islands. bit place,' though small, is the see of a bishop der the archbishop of Drontheim, and is de- ded by the strong fortress of Doeswyck, which di leaward about two miles from the town. The district in which Stavanger is tituaied is th« most temperate and best peopled, perhaps of any in Norway, though it has no other town of note. Bergen, the largest and most considerable tradingplace in all Norway, is 410 miles N. W. of Copenhagen, and is situated on the southern shore of a bay which the natives' call Waag. On the land-side the town is defended by high mountains; so that no enemy can approach it. On the seu-side the harbour is sufficiently guarded by fortifications. The harbour is strongly de- fended on the north side by the citadel of Christiansholmj also, by Rothouzen, Sverresborg, - the Commun and castle, and on the left side hy batteries erected upon Nordnas and Fredericlu- berg, whidi last is reckoned among the nio^t considerable fortificatitms about Bergen. Be- sides, onSyUdas is, a black house, and a particular round citadel called Christiansbcrg. All the churches and public buildings, as also most of the burghers houses on the shore, are of stone. Formerly here were thirty churches and convents: but at present in Bergen are only four parish churches, three of which are Danish, and one German; and besides there is a church in the great hospital of St. Jurgen, and a little church in St. James's churcb-yard. The castle is a con- siderable building. The large cathedral or high school, was built in 1554 by bishop Petri, and endowed by him; the revenues of which havo been since augmented: so that twelve scholars are annually maintained in it. The school for navigation was formerly very numerous, but is now much declined. The Frederick-seminary is also worth notice. The town carries on a large trade in all kinds of fish, coarse goods, hides, fine furs, tallow, fir-timber, and wooden-wares. These commodities are brought hither from the northern countries, and exported abroad; in ex- change for which, corn and other goods are re- turned. The Hanse towns erected a factory or counting-house here; in which the towns of Lubeck, Hainburgh, Rostock, Deventer, Embden, and Bremen, have the greatest share. In the seventeen edifices with warehouses, are forty-two burghers shops, and seventeen factories witli shops also; of which the Lubeckers have one,' the Hamburghera one, and the Bremeners the other fifteen. They have altogether eight halls for the merchants to assemble and feast in. Three se?eral councils have been holdeo here; and the place l!!.:1* I I' ■'■^ i\ \- f I'm) iM ■ ; li * Hi' 'til '•it 4h i lit 1 iM 49i NOWEL'8 TRAVFXS IN place has been five times burnt down ; particu- larly in 1248, when eleven parish-churchea were burnt; in 1756, when one thousand six hundred and sixty families were deprived of their dwell- ings. The number of its inhabitants amounts to about thirty thousnnd ; and besides themngistracy, it has a town-bailiwic. It is the sec of a bishop, under the archbishop of Drontheim. Drontheini, which is 260 milos N. E. of Ber- gen, and 540 miles N. of Copenhagen, is the principal town of the government of Drontheim, and the see of an archbishop. It is situated on the river Nid, which issues from Tydel, a rising ground, and falls into the lake Sclbosea. Thi»' town being the capital of Norway, h)ad formerly ten churches and five convents; but at present there are no mure than two churches and an hospital church. The cathedral, a magnificent structure, built of beautiful marble, was burnt as far us the choir in 1530; which part is still standing, and is large enough for a church. Here the diocesan amtman and archbishop reside. At Drontheim a considerable trade in timber, Hah, coarse goods, and copper from the neigh- bouring works of Meldal and Roraas, is carried on. Its principal strength lies in the mountain fort of Christianstein, the fortifications on the land side, and Munkholm. This town, being built almost entirely of timber, has sufTered Con- siderably by three different conflagrations. In the summer time the inhabitants have no occasion to burn candles, since it is light enough to see without for a considerable time all night, the longest day being about twenty hours and a quarter long. On the E. side of the town is the suburb of Bakkclandat, with a church of its own, and not far from thence is Ladegaard, with another. The abovementioned fort Munkholm stands on a rock in the harbour, defending both it and the town towards the sea. In this fort it is usui;l to confine state prisoners. Friderikstcin. or Fredericshall, is a well built town of Aggerhuns in Norway, at the southern extremity of the country, on the borders of Sweden, and is situated on a bay of the Skager Rack, by the convcuiency of which .t|ic inha- t)itants enjoy a pretty good trade. It is 246 miles N. of Copenhagen in Denmark, is a well fortified place, and is reckoned the key of the kingdom of Norway. Charlfs Xll. of Sweden having set down before it in 1718, was killed as he was viewing the trenches. This towo has 'P »e been frequently burnt, and was tottHviJe,*,. . by an accidental fire in 1763, when Zhi? escaped the ravages of the devouring element h a magazine. " At 12 miles N. W. of Priderikstein ii p,idJ rikstadt, which is another well fortified dU and is situated on another bay of the Skaff* Rack. The inhabitants, of this town likewt enjoy a good share of commerce. It is 86 ^j due VV. of the frontiers of Sweden. Christiana is 50 miles N. of Friderikjtadt and is the principal town of the diocese of own name or Aggerhuus. It is one of the fini towns in Norway, where the sub-governor amtman of the diocese, the supreme juridii court, and the bishop, have their seats. In thj town u provincial court is also held. It i» y and regularljr built, and the inhabitants cari on an extensive trade, its situation being calculated for that purpose; for it is seated the bottom of a bay called Christiana Fiord. has (wo suburbs, called Waterland and Piveri gen. After Opslo had been burnt 4uwn, t town of Christiana was built in 1624, near tli castle of Aggerhuus, so as its guns can commu all the streets. Its school was made an aGadeo in 16.36, with a salary for the master, i foundations for twenty scholars ; but on the., clension of the academy in 1653, it again retei*o the appellation of a school. The fortress Aggerhuus is exceedingly strong, butthcdate its foundation is not known. In 1310 it wai vain besieged by duke Erich of Sweden;, and 1567 the Swedish army, which closely besie^ it for eighteen weeks, was shamefully dcfeatn in 1717 the like fruitless attempt was made iipi it by the Swedes under Charles XII. Beforetli fortifications stands a cluster of houses calli Hovedtangen. Wardhuys is a sea-port town of Jforwfgii Lapland, and is seated on an island of the san name. The town is very small, and is silui near the continent. It has an old fort, whei the governor resides, and a street consisting poor cottages. The government of this proviu extends from the giilph of Ostrasion to Rusiii Lapland, and comprehends the most northe part of Norway, which produces little i nothing except a few pastures. The longt day at Wardhuys is about two months, consequently the «hor(est day is the oS the duration. SECTIO ::.Wji'f DENMARK, NORWAY, AND SWEDFN. 495 SECTION III. Ctntral Description of Sweden; its Length and Breadth, Boundaries, Lonf.est Day, Climate, Soit, Roads, Rocks and Islands, Lakes and Rivers, Minerals, Inhabitants, IVealth of Sweden, Lan- tuns' ""^^ Beliglon — Cattle and other Beasts, Trade and Mannfacturcs, Monei/, Prerogatives of L Kina—Tlie principal Towns of Sweden described. the King- ^HE kingdom of Sweden is one of the north- ern stiktes of Europe, which comprehends • greater purt of the ancient Scandinavia. It i Ucnmark and Norway on (he W. Danish Finland on the N. Russia on the E. and the liltic Sea on the S. and S. E. It extends about Ufeo hundred miles in length, from Ystad in LeS. to Utsjola in the N. and its mean breadth iibout live hundred miles. Sweden is situated itween the '*th and 32d degree of East longi- it, and stretches nearly from the 53th to the Eoth degree of North latitude. The longest day I the suiitlicrn part of Sweden is about seventeen «urs fifteen minii^«iH, while at the northern cx- imity it is somewhat more than two months. itStockhulni, the capital of the kingdom, it is bghteeu hours long. Sweden can scarcely be snid to enjoy either Bring or autumn; for a severe winter prevails luriag nine months in the year, and insufferable leat iinmediateiy succeeds excessive cold. It hezeiall at once in the month of October, with- out any of those insensible gradations which in )(her countries usher in the seasoki, and render variations in the atmosphere more pleasing tolerable. Nature, however, to alleviate jiii inconvenience, has given to Sweden a serene iky and a pure air. The almost unioterniitting itat of the summer's sun produces flowers and Uts in a short time. The tediousness of the bng winter nights is mitigated by the evening morning twilights, which continue in htoportion as the sun is more or less removed \m the Swedihh hemisphere. Night in this lountry is every where singularly luminous and bbsing. The brightness of the moon, never Ibscured by clouds, but highly increased by the now lying on the earth, and frequently by the loflhern lights, render it as convenient to travel liid do business, either within or without doors, ly night as by day. The air appears universally |lear, keen, and salubrious. Violent storms of Vol. II. No. CVI. wind and rain are seldom known; and the steady piercing N. wind oidy serves 4o purify and refresh the atmosphere. Though Sweden is extremely mountainous, it affords many tracts of even ground fit for agri- culture. The soil is in {general sandy and swampy, but is not void of hirtility. Gothland produces the n;rcatcst quantity of grain, as wheat, rye, barley, v^'ts, and pease: but every part of^ Gothland is not equally fertile. Sweden also affords good pastures, and in the southern parts some orchards which yield fine fruit; but this country is more famous for its mines than the produce of the soil. Nordland, being full of rocks and mountains, produces but little corn: however it has some spots for grazing. Lapland yields still less grain than Nordland; but Finland IS in nuist places extremely fertile, though far from being properly cultivated. The corn in the short, but hot, summers of this climate suddenly grows up and ripens; but it is far from being sulKcient for the subsistence of the inha- bitants, and therefore several hundred thousand quarters are annually imported from abroad, particularly from Livonia, Pomerania, and Wis- mar. Mr. Wraxall's account of the soil of (his country is superior to any thing yet published. " I think (says he) it may be very justly asserted, that not one twentienth part of this country is in a state to be cultivated. I have travelled near seven hundred English miles in this kingdom, and, except in the province of Scania and some parts of Finland, I did not sec twenty acres of good land lying together. The soil in those places where it is capable of being cultivated is tolerably fruitful, though seldom more than eight inches deep. It is easily ploughed, and generally best, where there is least of it, that is, in the little spaces between the rocks; and fre- quently the barren land, enriched with the ashes of trees which are burnt upon the spot for making of charcoal^ produces a plentiful crop; 6M but ; i' M 1 ! I ^: h h V ''It ■ n\ ill h ■ i H'il' 111 r496 NOWFT.'S TRAVF.LS IN but tlie danger of dcsfroying (oo imuh of the woir"l> a greenish semi- pellucid stone, -jjyry, lapis-lazuli, asbestos, load-stone, iBich-stone, free-stone, mill-stones, stucco-stones, y l{ lime-Atones, coarse and white marble, and 'lifiil petrifactions; also excellent white Lfble with bcautifnl green veins, which are flieliiiies of a dark, and nt others of a bright livid green, finely interwoven; marienglas or lasJ, vitriol, mercury, amianthus, lead 1^ cobalt, allum, fullers-earth, petrolimu, jlphur, mother of pearl, &c. gold, silver, tin, ttd, copper, and iron. The Swedes are of a tall r>tature and robust looititution, capable of enduring hardships and jligues. Where they are not too much exposed ithe weather they have good complexions; and leirhair, like that of other nations, is inclined I yellow. The women are of a just proportion ; ley have also fine features, and those who are Bployed at home arc generally fair; but the uiiits are accustomed to make their females dergo an equal share in all laborious employ- flts. They go to plough, thresh their corn, tow on the water, serve the bricklayers, and trrv burthens like men. The inhabitants are, owcver, far from being suHicient to people the buntry. There is a remarkable instance of this lone place, where, though not the most north- rlvpart, there are scarcely four thousand seven undred people to be found in the compass of Hve thousand and seven square miles. The bliabitants of Sweden and Finland have been Ijoipuled by some well-informed Swedes at bout three millions six hundred thousand, Kkoiiing eighteen thousand farms, on which Ire one million six hundred thousiiiid souls, in- ludiiig' the women, children, and servants; and is said these farms make up above half the limber of the inhabi foreign trade, arecalli Land Towns; others, a.:d these are twenty-foi in number, are called Steeple Towns, where i| merchants are allowed to import and export coi modities in their own ships. Those intheinji districts are called Mine Towns. Tliediffen branches of trade, however, and everything lating to merchandize, are monopolized in t kingdom, and only a fixed number of artilia and traders allowed in every town. Thus win a young man has served his time to any particuli business, he cannot exercise it till he has all served a certain number of years as a joiirnem and then not till there is a vacancy by thednl of one of the masters. The stagnation of inlai commerce prevents the inhabitant.'- ;)f thediffen provinces from bartering the superfluities their respective products. The profits of as culture, though the most important objects commerce, are very much neglected, and litl encouragement is given to carry the native pn duce of the earth to any foreign market: for (hi reason, many very extensive tracts of landinti most fertile provinces still remain uncullivati Indeed, there has been no great progress imi in the internal improvement of this cuudIi during the last two hundred years. Very little of either silver or gold is to foiuid in this depopulated and hair-fumi>1 country. The two things which supply thi place, and by which a miserable semblance commerce is still carried on, are paper and coj per. Their bank notes are as low as one sliillii DENMARK, NORWAY, AND SWEDEN. 499". %'W I , jj.pence;' and lliey have them of all value I- ff gradually from that sum. This, too, is I isfortune which originated in Charles the twelfth'* unhappy passion for war. Baron Ml in *'•* '***^'' ^"'^ °^ ^^^^^ monarch's reign, y (lie address for facilitating the schemes of Diaster against the peace of Denmark, to give 'ooper the value of silver; by which the Svnedes re obliged to give all the silver they then pos- ''«d in exchange for this wretched "and chi- riical equivalent; the payments are therefore this day made in coj>per, which is^here the Lf medium of trade, and extremely incon- Leot. They have still, however, a few gold Lats, and pieces of silver about five shillings Hwo pence value each, in circulation: and (Several subsidies which of late years, under ujg XV. and XVI. paid them by France and «r courts have eonsiderably increased their fonJlie 19th of August, 1772, Gustavus III. rSweden restored to the crown those prcroga- iwhich it had lost for more than half a cen- uy, His profound secrecy and dissimulation Ithis dangerous and critical jiuicture, much nused what might have been expected from iTtulliful agu. To this important plot, which H executed with as much dexterity and pre- m, as it had been planned, it is said, that Mr|iv0 S. W. of Stockholm, is a pleasant well built sea-port tow n ; it is the capital of Ilalland, a subdivision of South Gothland. It is situated at the mouth of the Nissa, which falls into the Cattegat, and its inhabitants carry on an exten- sive trade. It is famous for its salmon. In 1619 Gustavus Adolphus, king of Sweden, and Christian IV. king of Denmark, had a friendly interview here: the latter had fortified it, but it was yielded to Sweden by the treaty of Bromsbo^ in 1()45; and in its neighbourhood Charles XI. - of Sweden obtained a victory over the Danes. Falkenberg is 22 miles N. by VV. of Halm- stadt, and 2.')1 S. W. of Stockho.m. ' It is a small, but ancient maritime town of Ilalland in South Gothland, and is seated at the muiilh of a river of the same name, which falls into Cattegat. It hiis V. considerable fishery of salmon, but that of herrings is small. The harbour here is tolerable, and is defended by a castle. Near the village of Axtorn in its neighbourhood, a' G N battle a. ■.■:!; ij. I . ' 1 5oa NOWEL'S TRAVELS W Twrnwa.. baUIe (calfed tbe battle of Falkcnberg) was fought in I565»^ in which the Danes were de- feated by the Swedes. Warlierg is 13 miles N. of Falkenberg, and 245 S. W. of Stockholm, and i» likewise in the subdivision of Haliand in South Gothland. It is but a small town, but is defended by a strong castle. It stands on the Cattegat, and has a de- cent harbour. Gottcnburg, or Gothenburg, is 41 miles N. by W. of Warberg. and 240 S. W. of Stock- holm. It is the capital of \Ve8t Gothland, and is seated on tbe Skager Rack, at the mouth of the Gutliesba, where it fotms an excellent har- bour. It was originally built by Charles IX. of Sweden, in 1607, on the island of Hisingon; but being destroyed by the Danes in 1611, the iuhabitants, about seven years after, removed to the place where it now stand.s and were favoured with several considerable privileges. Gottcnburg carries on the greatest trade of any city in Sweden, except Stockholm. The streets are broad and kept very clean; and since the year 1746 the greater part of the houses have been rebuilt with sloiie. It is regui::rly fortified, and on the land side is defended by two citadels, called the Lioa and the Crown; and towards the sea by the citadel of New Elsburg. The governor of the prefectures of Gottcnburg and Rohus, who is also commandant of tbe forts and fortifications, resides in this city. Gottcnburg is the see of a bishop, and has two printing-offices, a city church, a seminary, an orphan house, an edifice called the crown-house, where the garrison attend divine service, a German church, and several quays and docks. The number of its inhabitants are estimated at fifteen thousand. In 1731 an £a8t India company was established in this city, for tbe harbour is a very fine one, and is resorted to by a great number of ships: there is here also a college of admiralty, and a court o. appeals. Marstrand is an old staple town of Bohus, a district of West Gothland, at the distance of 20 miles N. W. of Gottenburg, and 240 W by S. of Stockholm. At this place is an excellent har- bour, which is defended by the citadel of Carl- stein, a fortress which is said to be impregnable. * In thPcIcT SWF.nRN'. ■■-~-— ""- ■ —'■•—'-'..,. .11. , .«■.. ,11^.., 50 E Hi name importSi and its inhabitiants have a ((y good traoe. From this place some of the Btient Cimb" are said to have migrated. Cbristianstadt is 3S miles N. of Cimbrishamn, Istandson the river Hedge-a, which surrounds . (firee .sides. It was built hy Christian IV. Cl of Denmark, and had it« name from him. tj iuhabitants carry on a good trade, and it •inlaHW about eighteen hundred inhabitants. Aftovin is surrounded with ramparts and horn- twfe, besides a fort which lies near the church, : . ^jjich is not considerable. The lands- nntraan, or goVerhor of the province resides cjrlshamn ( formerly called Christianfhamn ) i30 miles i^- by N. of Christianstadt, and 250 [byW. of Stockholm. Tt is situated in the [net of Blekingen, in Gothland, and is a ye town. On a rock near the mouth of the •erisa fort, which defends both the town and bfoniModious harbour. Here are two churcb- a woollfen manufactory, and a wh.irf for lipping; without the town, at a small disitatice. J 1 coppc^^ vt'ork. The number of its inha- iliii. X it seeins to borrow 'its name from the materials' of which it is builtj and the foundation on which it stands. The houses are mostly timber, and built on a cluster uf islands. The circuit it takes from one gate to the other is twelve miles, and the space it occuiiies contains six islands and some peninsulas. The islands which inclose the greatest part of the city are surrounded by two arms of a river, which run with great rapidity out of the Maler lake, over each of which there is a wooden bridge. From the city is a prospect on one side over the lake, and on the other over' the sea, which here forms a gt'lph, that running between several rocks has the appearance of another lake. This place, about three hundred years ago, was no more than a bare'island, with a few mean cottages for accommodating the tinhcrmen and their families; bujl^ it was thought a. proper spot fur a fortress to check (he incur-* sions of the Russians. Here, therefore, a castle was first erected; next a palace for the Royal >■ Family; and then a complete set of apartments for the whole court and principal oliicrrs of state. In this manner Stockholm soon surpa3sed in magnitude and splendour all the cities in Sweden. The castio, which has been repeatedly enlarged and refitted for these public purposes, is a place of no great strength or beauty, but is a very capacious edifice, containing accommoda- tion for the king's household, most of the ministers, the national court of justice, the college of war, the chancery, treasury, colleges of reduction, liquidation, commerce, and execu- tion. Here are also kept the |)ublic records, an armory, chapel, and a library. Most of the inferior olHccrs ^nd servants of the court are quartered on the burghers, at their landlord's charge, for lodging, fire, and caudle. In this city are nine large and beautiful churches, all of which have lofty spic/es: and instead of bcU#,. they have pretty musical chimes in their steepiles, which play on festivals and other solemn occa-. sions. The church of St. Nicholas is chiefly * This is tlic fabulous history of liis delivering Clcadu> Hilda, daughter of the king of Ji}dia, and twelve other dt;^ . voted virgins, from the fury ul' thu nioniitcr he subdou»..' tA-~ »j.fji»V»f'. , nt; ,rt«i»«»!« fMtCJ usuall Qlll distinguishied; from the rest by i(g size and m m niticence. It is covered with copper, gunn !^ by four massy pillars of -roatbleapd adorned a great vi^riety of elegixjit tombs and mDnuml'I 1 The sti^tute of St. George on horseback tramDlj Ion the, dragon is 'much ad mired *i Over «i alta? is a cabinet Gnely gilt, which holdsatabl of a pyramidical form with shelves of maJ silver. On tliis are several historical acrlptn pieces in basso r/elipvo. Ther^ are o(her sily! statues, about the altar of the pme niiagiiUude' that of Moses with the two tables of, the W John the baptist, with, a cross and a larab the Evangelists, with the drapery u' assigned theni by painters and strted ijitu {U port, where there is a haven capable of receivlDi a thousand sail, with a quay near nn EnMis mile long, close, to which vessels of the great biirtheo n>ay lie with t' eir b'oa^^ sides; tReon. inconyrufency is its being ten miles from ttiesea the river very crooked ^nd. no tides. It open into the Baltic, but i9, of dapgerous access, b reason of rocks; and its entrance is defended b a two forts: within, ships are so secure fromth wind, that it, has been said they need nc-ithi anchor nor cable to hold theui. ' Soderhamo, r c. thu South Harbour, is a tow of Hclsingland in Sweden Proper. It is situatn on the Gulph of Bothnia, 140 miles N. of Stock holm, at the mouth uf tlic river Liusiia; itbi good harbour, and has been built within abou sixty years, nevertheless it appears to be io flourishing state. Umea is a tpwn of West Bothnia in Swedm 200 miles N. by E. of Soderhamn, and 3ii miles N. by E. of Stockholm. It is situated the mouth of a river of the same name, wbicii empties itself into the Gnlpb of. Bothnia, this town the governor of V^mea Lapmark sides, 'i(i 'the place enjoys a tolerable share o trade- Pitea ie a sea port town of tVest Bothnia situated on a small island at the raoiitli of tin river Pitea, >yhere it falls into the Gulpb ol TUt princess is represented kneeling, with iiol' liuiid* lifieJ up, and other ^ignt of the siucercst ackiioM lalgumuiiii id thoir gallant prusiervor. ©ENMAUK, NORWAY, AND SWEDEN 503 l|jhoii. It i'« 103 milei N. by E. of Umca, JJJ, ^20 milc« N. by E. of Stockholm. This liAffii i' jo'"^^ *** ^^^ continent by a wooden haiVt >t the ^ai of ]nrhich a gate is creeled. iMfitreetR run in parallel lines; but the church Liodgat lome distance from the town; so thut lie bridge must be crossed to go to it. Pitca ITig originiilly built by GuBtavua Adolphus in 0, about three miles higher up in the coun- u... but tiiat town being destroyed by fire in 0, was rebuilt on its present situationj where I has a very commodious harbour. The old lovDof Pitea is now only a village, consisting of I few homes irregularly scattered on a fine com- LuIeB; a sea'port town of Weat Bothnia, is fi milei N. E. of Pitea; it is situated at the fouth tff a river of the same name: its harbour itolerabl)' commodious, but the inhabitants do ^oteajoy much trade. Tornea, the capital of Tornea Lapmark in ^Ht Bothnia, is 56 miles E. by N. of Lulea. 1490 K. by £. of Stockholm. It is seated at I mouth of a river of tlie same ntniie, on an i, and at the most northern part of the Eulpli of Bothnia. The inhabitants of Tornea try oa an extonaive trade with the northern itiiof Sweden; and although the cold is very irere in winter, tliey are exceedingly healthy. Ipngeit dtty at this town is about twenty* If bours. The river Tornea rises in Norwegian ^pUnd, and falls into the Bothnic Gulph at jftroea, ftiler a course of about three hundred It is extremely rapid, receiving in its ty twenty-nine other rivers, one of which is !ry broad. On the melting of the snow, this id the other rivers overflow their banks; and lof(he'i» have several dreadful cataracts. Gamla Carleby, or Old Carleby, is a 8ea in the lirst I T/hich is a post-house. END OF TRAVELS IN DENMARK, NORWAY, AND SWEDEN. VIEW OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. t BV •'./ / ^^IJLLI^M TOOKE, F. R. S. ' llIE>nJF.n OF THE IMPERIAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES ANt) OF THE FUEE ECONOMICAL SOCIETY OK ST. PETEKSBURG. • .:• . if .,v^ SECTION I. / ' Ihtroduclorjij Remarks — Climate — Miture and (^iialiO/ of the Ground — Face of the Country: Forests, Jdmmtms, Steppes, Morasses, Wastes, Salt Places — The principal Mountains of Jiu&sia. enumerated — The principal Plains of Jiussia. ^ .^ _ ble. The arts of Europe were transplanted, and bloomed both on the shores of tlie Neva and those of the Irtysh: a new world was opened to commerce; and the sciences, the manners, the luxury, the virtues, and the vices of western. Europe have found their way into the deserts of oriental Asia, and to the i hospitable coasts of Uie Frozen Ocean. The icra of these remarkable phenomena was the commencement of the eighteenth century *. By Russia is sometimes understood the whole Russian empire: yet these two expressions have properly a very different signification. Russia Proper impli' those principalities and provinces which for many ages past have been inhabited by Russians f ; and the following are its divisions, namely: 1. Great Russia, which has always bore the name of Russia in the strictest import, and comprises those large tracts of country, princi- palities, viceroyaltics, and dukedoms which have uninterruptedly (Composed the Russian dominion; as Mosco, Vladimir, Novgorod, Pscove, Pc- rieslaf, Riafanskoi, Kaluga, Tula, Yaroslaf, Kostroma, Tver, Vologda, &c. 2. Little Russia, comprehending the Ukraine |', or in general the present three governments of Kief, Tschernigof, and Novgorot'.-Sieverskoi§. 3. White Russia, ^HE Russian empire, which in various re- __ spects now fixes the attention of Europe, \lti for several years been the subject of a multi- llude of irivestigatitins and writings, by which |(he knowledge of that country is considerably lioinroved and enlarged. The care which Cathe- Iriue tbe Second, from lier first accession to the llbrone, and during the whole of her reign, de- Iroted to the cultivation of this knowledge, has to attended with so much success, that Russia, ubich, prior to the year 1762, waa a sort of ra incognita in our part of the globe, is now En possession of a very considerable store of ma- tiaU, from which the present state of this re- Darkable country may be illustrated and de- itribed. Russia, an empire but little known or regarded 1 the seventeenth century, at the opening of the iei^hteenth made her appearance all at once pong the states of Europe; and, aftef a short Vial of her powers, became the umpire and the Irbitress of the North. The whole system of Europe took another form; the arctic eaglt cx- ^nded her influence to the regions of the Adriatic knd the banks of the Tagus, while the lightning bf lier eye struck terror into the recesses of |l'Iount Caucasus and made the Hellespont trem- * In the year 1697 I'eter the Great began liis first oiirncy into foreijfn countries, tn \M)9 ha concluded tho Irmisticc with the Porte, by which he acquired Azof, and pas enabled to construct a navy on the Kuxiuc. Tn 17U() po hatde of Narva was fought, where the Swedes for tlic (St time shewed their superiority iu discipliuc and the arts If war. + For about thirteen or fourteen hundred year.*, as far bacl{ as authentic history reaches: this however is i)riuci« pally to be understood of Great and Little Russia. I Which word signifies the horikrs. § It was long sepanited from Great. Russia; but uuiteiJi to it again in 1651. 4 by i * i^m w 'Hiy v. Lfj; ih'i ■■t-9 ■■f ;-i .;i! ,:,■ 500 TOOKE'S VIEW OF THE RUflSTAN E^TPmK, by wliicli, for a long period of time, was meant the principality, or the present government of Smolensk; to which are now added the two governments of Polotzk and Mohilef, still some- times called the White-Russian territory: otiier- wise the name of White Russia is no longer heard of. To these were added, 4. New Russia, hy which were denoted the large tracts of country rear the Ukraine, towards Poland imd the Turk- ish dominions: namely. New Scrvia and the province of St. Elizaheth, which now belong to the government of Ekatarinoslaf, and therefore its name has fallen into disuse.— The three last lia\e not always been united with Great RusHia. But, by the Russian empire, is likewise undcr- dtood not only those just mentioned, but also finch kingdoms, countries, and provinces as have been at various times since added to it by con- quests and appropriations: as, 1. The kingdom of Kazan, which was conquered by tzar Ivan Vassillicvitch in 155^, at present consisting of several governments. 2. The kingdom of As- trakhan, taken by the same monarch*; at pre- sent likewise divided into, several governments. 3. The vast country of Siberia; which by calcu- lation, contains upwards of ten millions and a ]ialf of square versts, comprehending within it several kingdoms, taken by roving Kozaks on their own account, and then surrendered to the tzar, who completed the conquest; this at pre- sent consists of several, but those the most exten- sive governments. 4. The provinces on the shores of the Baltic, captured from the Swedes by Peter I. and for ever incorporated with the Russian empire by two treaties of peace: liivonia, Estbonia, Finland, and Ingria or the present governments of Riga, Revel, Vyborg, and St. Petersburg. 5. Tltc countries taken from Poland, now the governments of Polotzk and INIoliilef, which the empress Catherine II. united t(» the empire. 6. The territory she annexed to Russia by the ])eace concluded with the Turks in 1774. 7. The Krim and the Cuban, or the province of Taurida and the government of Caucasus, united to the empire by that sovereign ill 1783. S. The tributary islands in the eastern ocean, now added to Russia. 9. The countries that have more recently submitted to the Russian * Kabarda likcwi^ic soon afterwards submitted. I- The proper name of this capital is Moskra; bat ISiotcu i) grons into sudi familiar luc bj lopf ofitablisbcd ".'?w'"*'m?'^^' "*'»«'3'' Karttiplia. orKartoIinJa *, 10. The possessions in America, con«iI. partly of islands, partly of the contincn "'^,1 California, where the principal cstablishnient ■ ' called Donalesk. 11. Some other countries '1 corporatpd with the empire at various nerior as, the Kirghis-kozaks, of the middle and lijl'i horde, who submitted themselves in 173| .Jj several others. ' "'*' Hence it appears that the Russian empire hi not always been of such magnitude as at present I Even in the thirteenth century Lithuania wajnoJ so far from Moscof as now. From thig sli»y inspection it is manifest that the amplitude of tha empire is far greater than that of the largcj monarchy in ancieat or moderr^ tioiel Accorik ingly, the empress, in her letter of grace to tL Russian nobility in 1785, expresses herself m the following manner: " The Russian empire iJ distinguished on the globe by the extent of J territory, which reaches from the eastern border] of Kamtshatka to beyond the river Duna whitk falls into the Baltic at Riga: comprising withU its limits a hundred and sixty-tive degrcen ofl longitude: extending from the mouths of thd rivers Volga, K-:ban, Don, and Dnieper, whicli fall into the Caspian, the Palua Moeoti? and tht Euxine, as far as the Frozen Ocean, over two-an| thirty degrees of latitude." The same numbei of degrees is assigned it by this sovereign, in ha instructions to the conm issionfor framing a com of laws. But, from her own words, it plainlJ appears, that she only takes notice of the cou» tries contiguous to each other, according to general extent: but none at all of the islands, the numerous promontories and points of landj that strike out from them. The islands in tlie eastern ocean are not once mentioned. Even ihi isle of Oesel, with its western promontory reach'] es several degrees farther than the river Ouni If we take all these into the account the Russiai empire, according to the newest and bestcharlsj will be found to extend from about the fortJ third to the seventy-eighth degree of noita latitude; and from the thirty-ninth to the twoj hundred and fifteenth degree of longitude: thii last, however, including the islands lying in the| eastern ocean. Without reckoning the island custom, tliat wc should no more thiuk of altering it than rcduoinjT Warsaw to its right name of Varschati, or ciliiod the XitrUrs bjr their proper liamc Tatar, TOOKF/S VIFIW OF ' " t THE RUSSIAN F.MPIRK. 507 I .^nire extends in length nine thousand two II (Ired n)iles> and in breadth two thousand four llussis* by its magnitudn and situation, has tfv various frontiers as well as neighbours. On u I) sides, imnicly, to the north and the "ast, if e omit the establishment on the continent of America; '^ is* bordered by seas. On the other Uesit is bounded partly by Terra Firma, partly It seas, and here and there bv rivers; viz. to the Lt by Sweden and the Baltic; but to the south, LCourland, Poland, Turkey, the Eiixinc, and ieCaspia"> by Persia, China, and various tribes ^uncivilized nations. From the enormous extent of the Russian em- hjre it will naturally be inferred that the tcm- jeratures of the atmosphere must be various, [contains many reyfions that are blessed with the ■ireit air, and the mildest sky; but a greater iiinber of others where the weather is extremely Lie and cold, and many others again where the Uiiations from the earth are not of the most Llubrious nature. The parts towards the south Ljoya warm and agreeable temperature, in which loiostall the plants and vegetables of countries jiutted niiK-h nearer to the equator flourish and mid. Others again, in high northern latitudes, lough not congealed in everlasting ice, are yet iressed with so severe a frost as to exclude the of ag;ricnlture. On ihe whole, therefore, e climate is not excessively hot, except at cer- lin seasons in Taurida, seldomer and less rting in a few other places; but in many parts lisextrcmtly cold. However, the one tract of Lntry not only supplies the deficiencies of the [her; but nature has kindly provided that every loiate should be fitted to the wants of its inha- iUnls, and has adapted them to the temperature {f their sky. High to the north she has dispensed corn, but plenty of moss, for the animals; I far mankind, an infinite variety of berries, Hsh, and wild fruits. Farther to the south tr liberality is displayed: beneath a mild and knial atmosphere she bestows on the inhabitants iiuperfluity of the finest productions. I* In aad about Mosco (be rivers freeze about the middle lljttcr end of November, and break in March or the be- piitK of AjtHI. The birch-trrcg come out in May, and p their leavci iu September. About Kuriik all sorts of lit arc ripe in Auguvt, and thcu the cora is all got in. mefi Travels, lln Irkutsk tho thormometcr, en the Oth of December, Vol. II. No. CVII. In the middle and northern regions the winters are very cold, and the days uncommonly short; but the summers are so much the longer, and the heats are sometimes great. In severe frosts it is no unusual thing for iiumi tj be. fro/en, so as either to die on the spot, or, without speedy assistance, for the limbs that are frozen to tall oft' by degrees. The freezing of the rucrs happens in various ways, according to the degree of eold, the quality of the water, the ciirniif, and the niitiiro of the bed*. Some carry floating ice, which at length consolidates; others, on a sudden frost, arc covered at top with icy particles like gruel, which in a day or two congeal; others again, of a gentle current, are in one night covered with a thin scum of ice which gradually in- creases in substance: while the rivers in Russian Dauria, or the province of Nertshinbk, differ from all these, and exhibit a quite dift'erent property: for there the ice first fornms at the bottom; M'hich is then lifted up by the water, where ii remains till the whole river is entirely frozen up; and at times so much ice conies gradually to it, that the water can scarcalv find a free passage beneath it. Some derive the cause of this either from the quality of the beds of the rivers there, which universally consist of chalk stone; or from the frigidity of the soil, which all the summer through never thaws to a greater depth than two arshines. The frost, and still mosc the quantity of snow in connection with it, is of infinite advantage to the empire, as by that means the land-carriage is inconceivably facilitated. Many provinces could neither procure the necessaries of life, nor turn their own products into money, were it not for the frost and snow. No sooner is the sledgeway formed, than all the country roads arc covered with carriages. In several districts, masts, balks, '. firewood, &c. can only be fetched in the winter, especially from marshy forests. Imoiense quan- tities of Hax, hemp, tobacco, deals, tallow, &c. are brought by sledgeway from the distant pro- vinces of Russia to the ports of the Baltic. 1772, stood at two hundred and fifty-four desroes ; not- withstanding that tho Angara there commonly freezes not till towards the end of December, and frequently not till the middle of January ; and breaks up at the end of March, or before the middle of April. Gcorgi's Travels, toI. i. p. 36. 6P There pt ■' :!;i:l ii ' I '■.filii ,' .1 ' m 508 TOOKE'a VIF.W OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. There are regiono wliere the creator part of the yciir may be called winter, othcm wjiere the winter lasts but a few weeks ; gome where storms are very frequent, others where they arc extreme- ly rare: of the latter sort are the parts about the Frozen Ocean. The cold and its elFects arc licre very remark- able. There are nnniially from one hundred and fifty to one hundred and ninety days of frost, the iievcrity and continuance of which frec/r the ground every winter from two to two and a half, and SDmctinics even three feet deep. The ice of the Neva is from twenty-f»uir to thirty-six, but generally twenty-eight inches thick. It is curious to observe, that, though this thickness of ice is formed by the shcots of ice lying horizontally on one another, yet the huge blocks of it that arc cut out for filling the ice-cellars, on being left exposed to the sim, fall to pieces in perpendicular spiciilic, each of the thickness of one's little finger. So likewise in the spring, by pressing on a walking stick; while the ice is fttill of its primitive thickness, the alkk will go through, because it pushes down one or more of these spiculfe from their connecti(m with the rest. The covering of tlip Neva with ice, and the breaking up of it, are remarkable pha;nomena. When the ice is setting in, as it is called, small detached ilakes of ice are seen floating down the current, which soon grow into large fields, and acquire so great a momentum, that the bridges must be hastily taken asunder, to prevent their being carried away by the ice; a disaster which has happened more than once. These large plajns of ice continue for a day or two passing with the current, while the boats are seen rowing between them; till all at once the floating ice •tops, either by the gulf being already closed below, or the flakes of ice freezing together: when immediately foot passengers, who have been waiting on the shores for this moment, go over in all safety. Nothing is more common than to see boats crossing the river, and, in two hours afterwards, to behold hundreds of people going over on foot. No less rapid is the departure of the ice. Iq the spring the first indication of this approaching event, is the standing of the snow-water on the ice; then the i«e becomes more porous, or divides into spiculae, lets the water through and becomes of a blackish colour. At length it parts, while the roads that have been well trod during the winter remain: so that often foot pOMcngi are seen on these roads, and between then the floating sheets of ice, boats in frr^,^^^ f^jL^^w passing and repassing. By the force of the r I rent, and shocks received from the floatinp "' 1 at length the roads give way; the ice continual to fall down with (he stream for a day 7 two to the gulf, and the whole river isclcHr ki week or fortnight after this, the ice of Lad,,., conies down, which, according as tin; wi * iiul iiiiti happen to be, continues a couple or moroday,^ «>nnic(imcs an many weeks, and renders the »» mosphcre uncommonly chilly. The ice and the cold arc of service to tlic inlij bitants in various ways. Distances are mud shortened by their means, inasmuch as peoni,! horses, and carriages of all sorts, can cross tj Neva, and the other rivers, lakes, ami canals, ij all places and directions: and the CroiisfudtgnipS supplies, in some measure, the want of iiavir no inconvenience in por- ' * (lieir employment through (he streets of r town niitl along the roads, though the beards lirforincr and the muzzles of the latter are tfrcil w''h hoar-frost and little icicles from f joiijrflation of their breath ; and in (lie r^jji , 'oil! they travel all day, without receiv- |.iv detrimeut. Nay, even from twenty to j,n(v-foiir degrees of Reaumur, women will Ldriiicii'S the linen through holes in the ice, Lr liv»S «'' "'* hours together, often barefoot, ytlifir hands dipping in the water all the Ljlf and tlieir draggled petticoats stifl'with ice. riie winds are in some parts very violent, ,.ig||y ill Siberia, where reigns a certain jiendoug kind of winter-hurricane, which (hey Iburoeii, and which not unfrequendy buries U nun and cattle in whirlpools of snow and uj. Storms, in most of the districts, are not frequent, and generally speaking not so Llent, as in other places ; neither was any mis- Lfcvor known to have been done by lightning. Ltbepiirts to (he nor(h thunder and lightning [(even great rarities. On the other hand, the brthern lights are ordinary appearances; and in inyof the northern districts, u few months ex- mted, are, in a manner to be seen daily. [Earthquakes in most of these parts happen but lldoin. Yet tliere have been some, felt over Lniptschatka to the mountains of Altai. I 111 the northern districts the days in the winter [extremely short; but in summer therefore so uclithe longer. On the shortest day, the 10th if December, old stile. the .sun rises and setH Astrakhan, about 48 rain, after 7. 12 mill, after 4. Kkf, 7 8. 5.1 3. Mo-'co, 37 8. 23 3. Hip, 47 8. 13 3. Tobolsk, fi6 8. 4 3. St. Petctsbiirg^ 15 0. 43 1 Archangel, 24 10. 36 1. [The quality of the soil, in this enormous em- Ire, as may well be supposed, is extremely va- Dus. There are entire, and these very exten- Ite governments, that are full of mountains: mothers, in still greater number, that consist J vast steppes and plains, some of which are in- btorable to the eye. u^ .. Captain Plescheyef says, " Russia is divided by niituro into two great parts by a range of niountaiiiH called Vral, which form one continued uninterrupted barrier across the whole breadth of it, dividing Siberia from the rest of Russia. " That part of Russia which lies on this side (he Ural mountains presents a vast extended plain verging towards the west by an easy grada* ti(m. This plain, from its prodigious extent* has a great variety of climatesj soil, and pro- ducts. The northern part of it is very woody, marshy, but little capable of cultivation, and has a sensible declension towards the White Sea and the Frozen Ocean. The other part of thi» extensive plain includes the whole district alon^ the river Volga, as far as the deser(s reaching hy the Caspian and the Sea of Azof, constituting the finest part of Russia, which in general is rica and fertile, having more arable and meadow land, than forests, swamps, or barren deserts. " The most remarkable, for superior quality and flavour of every kind of fruit and other pro- ductions of the earth, is that part which extends towards Voronetch, Tambol Penza, and Sin- birch, as far as the deserts. It every wher* abounds in an admirable rich soil, consisting of a black mould, strongly impregnated with salt- petre. But that part which commences between the sea of Azof and the Caspian, and extondiq^ near the shores of the latter runs between the Volga and the Ural, and then stretching as far a^ the river Emba, is nothing but a desert, level* arid, high, sterile, and full of saline lakes. " The parts lying on the other side of the Ural mountains, known by the name of Siberia, is a flat tract of land of considerable extent de- clining imperceptibly towards the Frozen Ocean; and by equally gentle degradations rising towards- the souHi; where at last it forms a great chain of mountains, making the boundary of Russia on the side of China. Between the two rivers Oby and Irtish, and the Altay mountains, runs a very- extensive plain, called Barabinskaia steppe or the deserts of Baraba, the northern part where- of is excellently adapted to agriculture; but the' southern, on the contrary, is a barren desert, full of sands and marshes. The country, betweeni - the rivers Oby and Yenissey consist more of wood land than of open field; and the otfier side of the Yenissey is entirely covered with imper-" vious woods, as far as the lake Baikal; but'tbe- soil is every where fruitftrl; and 'wherever th«- native» iH mm u 510 TOOKE'S n.^V OV TMK RUSSIAN EMPIRE. natives liavc bcon at tlie pains of clearing and draining tlie ground, it proves to be ricb, and liigbly lit for cultivation. Tbe parts beyond the Baikal are surrounded by ridgos of high stone mountains. Proceeding farther on towards the east, the climate of Siberia becomes gradually more and more severe, the summer shortens, the winter grows longer, and the frosts are more intense " In such temperature of climate, the greater part of Siberia, that is, the middle and south- ern latitudes of it, as far us the river Ii4:iia, is extremely fertile and fit for every kind i produce; but the northern and eastern narM being encumbered with wood are deprived 1 this advantage, being unfit both for pasturpj and culture. The whole of this part, as far J tlio (50th degree of north latitude and to tlj Frozen Oct m, is full of bogs and rm,rasse| covered with moss, which would be absDlmiij impassable, did not the ice, which never (h;uvi deeper than seven inches, reruaia entire bcneatJ it." . . ' SECriON II. ll Of the Seas fonitliiix the Boundaries of the Hussian Empire — Of the InUnul Seas, and pTincim Lakes of Eiissia — Its principal liiiers — Mineral Waters — Canals. THE Frozen or Northern Ocean in ancient times was called by the Russians Mor(^ Murcmskoe, but at present Ledovitoe more. By the Goths it was termed Gandawyk, by the Cini- brians Mare Manisa, and by the Latins, Mare Sarniaticum, and Mare Scythicuin. The Swedes call it Is-Hafoet, and the Norwegians Lehecsec. It borders the whole of the northern part of the empire, from the confines of Lapland to the Xschukotskoy-Noss; that is, from 50 to 205 degrees of longitude, and consequently laves the shores of the governments of Archangel, Tobolsk, and Irkutsk. Several bays of very considerable expanse are formed by this vast ocean. The greatest is the bay in the vicinity of Archangel, M'hich commonly goes under (lie name of the White-Sea, extending from north to south within the land, from 69 to 63 degrees of north latihide, and contains a multitude of petty islands. — Next follows the Tcheskaia Guba, the Karian Bay, called also the Karian Sea. Karskoe more; then tlie Obskoc bay, which is uncommonly spacious; the Taymurskaia guba, or bay; the Khatangskaia guba; two bays at the mouth of the Lena; and lastly, the Tashaunskaia guba, at 1B5 degrees of longitude. — Of the numerous islands in this ocean the most coniderable are; Novaya Zendia and Kolgurva; but both of them arc uninl.ubited, and only frequeDted by fishermen and hunters. Novaya Zemlia is indeed well supplied with Heaters but is rocky, unfruitful, and destitute of woods; scarcely are a few .stunted bushes aii| poplar plants to be met with there. IJut, ont other hand, this island abounds in rein-deeJ white beaj-.«, white and blue foxes, and tlic shortf swarm with morasses, wallrusses, &c ilsima niiude is estimated at nine hu.idred ami versts in length, five hundred and twenty ii breadth, and three thousand and ninety in (il cumforence, witliout following the simiosiliesj and four hundred and twenty-five thoiisund fivl hundred and nine German miles of siipLTfirca according to Mr. Storch. On the northern . . j 1 :'4\ •I m i! ' I ' 'W,y i 1- t ' m 6Q by •a .i 1 512 TOOKE'S VIEW OF TUT! RUSSIAN EMPIRE. by the Russian Sievernaia Dvina^ i. e. the North- ern Dvina, falls into the White Sea at Archangel. This river has the honour of having given recep- tioa, in 1553, to the first English ship that ever sailed to Russia. 4. The Fetshora. 5. The Oby, 6. The Irtysh. 7. The Tobol. 8. The Yennissey. 9. The Tunguskis. 10. The Kha- tanga. 11. The Lena. 12. The Yana. 13. Anadyr. 14. The Kamshatka. 15. The Amoor. 16. The Yeraba. 17. The Ural. 18. The Volga. 19. The Kuban. 20. The Don (for- merly called Tanais). 21. The Dnieper (the Boysthenes of the ancients ) 22. The Bog, or Bogiie. And many others. It is somewhat surprising, that iti an empire so extensive as that of Russia, so few mineral springs should have hitherto been found. The mineral waters at present known, and occasionally applied to medicinal purposes, are, sulphureous and liver of sulphur waters; among which are reckoned the hot springs ( which are the most numerous). Some are of lukewarm, others warm, and a few of hot water.— Strong martial, or vitriolic waters are not uncommon.— Bitu- minous waters, or those impregnated with Naphta, are not unfrequent. There are in Russia a considerable number of canals; the construction of- which was a prin- cipal object with Peter the Great. Some canals were begun by his orders, but were after- wards left unfinished from the difficulties which arose in the progress of the work. Four parti- cularly derive their origin from him, viz. 1. That to Cronstadt, which, after hcing carried upwards of two versts, was then abandoned. 2. The Ladoga canal, which in length is one liund J and four versts, and seventy fathoms in breadS 3. A canal, along which, by means ofj rivers, a communication i* formed between m" CO and the Don. 4. That at Vishnei-Vojotsh by means of which a passage is had from tH Caspian into the Volga; and thence, in A junction with some rivers and lakes,' into ♦Jl Neva, and so into the Baltic. The lateemnr from the very boginning of her reign, bcstoi a peculiar attention to this important object actually caused three canals to be dug, besidJ those of Cronstadt and St. Petersburg; in orj particularly to render more commodious tH passage from the Caspian into the Baltic- J then by means of rivers, to connect the Caspll with the Baltic; and then by means of D rivers, united by canals, to join the Caspian! the White Sea. Several other plans have set on foot, namely, the uniting of the Dnicjl the Daiepr, and the Volga. — Almost all t| rivers of Siberia disembogue themselves into J Frozen Ocean. Not one of all that take tk rise in Siberia, runs to the countries of theMol gols, Biikharians, Kalmuks, and Tartars; whw as many of those which rise in the MonguW and the country of the Kalmuks, flow norlhwai through Siberia. They are so commodious navigation, that a vessel might go from till through St. Petersburg to Seleiiliinsk, wlifre] is only navigable two voloks;* om- between t river Tschussovaia and the Taghil, ami other one between the Ket and tlio Ycsnis! the latter of about ninety versts, and the forui not so wide. SECTION III. General Viezo of the J^ations which compose the Russian Empire, ichclher /J''sceu(hdffomlk\ Suuvoiiiatis, Finns, Mongoles, Tartars, or other Tribe THE whole Russian territory at present con- sists of fifty alike organized provinces, which are called governments or viceroyalties. As in this distribution less regard was had to the superficial contents than to the population, so are * Arolok in the Russian language, signifies notiiiiifi; more than a small tract of land between any two rivers (lint run the areal dimensions of the governments genera^ various; while the population, with a few ceptions, is pretty equal. Each governiuentj again divided into several circles; some oft largest have also a farther distribution into ' nearly in a parallel between those two rivers, communication. and ills I trid TOOKE'S VIEW OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. 513 I In eacli circle is a circle-town, where the '•^''u.gjniinistration has its seat, and one of '"' jircle-towns is at the same tinne the govern- " \.t«^»'n» '" which the governor-general and I"'"' incipal ollicers reside, and by which the hole government is usually denominated. rgjjije these fifty governments, belonging to , Kussian empire, are two more countries^ [^^jjg a military-civil constitution, namely, the I iio^yof the Donskoy-Kozaks, and the country I flhcEuxine-Kozaks. Two-and-fifty provinces Ljfoce, properly speaking, compose the Rus- anempire: the Georgian states, Harduella and ILkhetty. several petty districts of people, in III,,, parts of Caucasus, with the country of the ||;jj«l,is.Kozaks, are to be reckoned among the Icoiintries under the protection and in the de- noiidence of Russia. Great part of the country now called Russia I J, in periods of remote antiquity, inhabited Ifowards the north-east and north, by a people of iFiiinish origin, perhaps descendid from the an- Icient Scytliians. Towards the north-west, were llribes consisting of a motley race of Sauromates liod Grecian colonists; and from them are de- Lended the modern Lithuanians, Lettorians, hivonians, and Courlandcrs; as were also the an- Icient Prussians, The whole southern part of lEussia, even to the Krimea, was for some Itime inhabited by Goths; and, between the |Vol^a> the Don, and Mount Caucasus, dwelled |i nation descended from the Medes, called Sau- Iroinates, that is, the northern Medes. In process lof time, when nations of barbarians issued, one lifter the other, in swarms, from the east, and lionie of the different tribes of Goths had, since Ithe middle of the third century, penetrated into Itlie western regions of the Roman empire; part lof the Sauromates found themselves under the hecessity of retiring farther toward the north and ■the west. Even at that early period they had jthesame political constitution we still sec preva- jleiit among them. Each individual of the nation jwas either master or slave. Those who were of Idislinction among them, called themselves tribes, Jilaf, and slavn^, or noblemen; whence again, all Isurh as either were renowned for great atchieve- Iments, or only capable of performing them, were |afterwards in like manner styled slavn^. Under [this denomination it was that they became known Ito the Europeans, who were not till very lately acquainted with the particular tribes of those nations. These tribes had th&ir appellation fre- quently from some river, town, or district. So the Polabes were named after the Laba, or Elbe; po, in the Sclavonian and Rusi>.dn tongues, sig- nifying near. The Pomeranians dwelt po moreen or near the sea. No other country throughout the globe con- tains such a mixture and diversity of inhabitants. Russians and Tartars, Germans and Mongolcb, Finns and Tonguses, live here at immense distances, and in the most different climates, as fellow-citizens of one state, amalgamated by their political constitution, but by bodily frame, language, religion, manners, and mode of life, diversified by the most extraordinary contrasts. It is true, there are some European countries iu which we find more than one nation living under the same civil constitution: whereas in Russia dwell not only some, but a whole multitude of distinct nations; each of them having its own language, though iu some .cases debased and corrupted, yet generally suffic:<;nt for generic classification; each retaining its religion and manners, though political regulations and a more extensive commerce produce in some a greater uniformity; the generality of the main stems, ia short, bearing in their bodily structure, and in the features of their faces, the distinctive im- pression of their descent, which neither time nor commixture with other nations have been able entirely to eftace. This extraordinary variety of inhabitants, while it gives great attraction to the study of Russian statistics, adds likewise to its ditficulties. Instructive and interesting as it is to the reflecting observer, to trace the human being through every degree of civilization, in the several classcH of manners, and in all the forms of civil society; yet toilsome and dry is the occupation which must necessarily precede that satisfaction. The united efforts of the numerous inquisitive histo- rians, both foreign and domestic, who have em- ployed themselves on these subjects, have hitherto been able to cast but a feeble light on the origin of the greater part of the nations of the Russian empire, and the researches of many of them have been lost in traditions, the romantic obscurity whereof has left us no hope of arriving at the truth. Besides the Sclavonians, to whom the predo- minant I »: fit ir'i;- U k till -,TJJ • 51* TOOKF.'S VIEW OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. I ! i I ^ minant nation belongs, there are in the Russian empire three main national stems, whose original identity is historically placed beyond all doubt, and among whom several other tribes are to be counted as rehitive or collateral branches, namely, Finns, Mongoles, and Tartars. To these may be added the Tnnguses; who, though not a primitive stock, yi't are the only one of (heir race in Russia. A si.xth class is formed by those na- tions, w ith whose language and history we are still too much unacquainted for being able with any drgrce of certainty to assign them a place in the national system at large; and this chissilica- tion is terminated by the dispersed miiititudes of European and Asiatic nations ^^ho have scKled here and there in particular provmcos; either as conquerors with violence, or volniilarily ;iiid on invitation as colonists: but their number is incon- siderable. The Sclavonian stock is one of the most re- markable and most widely extended in the world. Next to the Arabians, there is no people ihroiigli- out the' globe that has diffused its language, its douiinion, and its cfdonies to so surprising an extent. From the shores of the Adriatic north- wards as far as the Frozen Ocean, and from tb«' j,hores of the Baltic through the whole length of Europe and Asia, as far as America, and to the neighbourhood of Japan, we every where meet with Sclavonian nations, either dominant or dominated. All the branches of this grand stock, who have formed peculiar states, may be ranged by their present condition in seven classes, that is. into Russian, Polish, Bohemian, German, lllyrian, Hungarian, and Turkish Sclavonians. Three of these branches we find in the spacious territory of the modern Russian empire: the Russians, the Poles, and the Servians. The aborigines of Russia were of ! vo races: Finns and Slavonians. The former possessed the regions of the Volga and the Duna; the latter dwelt about the Dnieper and the Upper Don. A second main stem of the nations dwelling in Russia is that of the Finns, of which, though not one branch has ever arisen into a ruling na- tion; yet, as being the common stock of most of the northern nations of Europe, is exceedingly remarkable for its antiquity and its wide extent, from Scandinavia to a great distance in the Asiatic regions of the north; and thence again to the shores of the Volga and tlie C s • Dispersed as all the Finnish nations are f?" prodigious space, yet the resemblanco in U i ," frame, in national character, in lanj^iia..p' '" in manners is preserved. It is scarcely\' ""' raarkable, that the generality of the T ^^ ris races still dwell only in the north, which ha!"" been their favourite abode, and on which aico they are likewise called inhabitants of ""' been their favourite abode, and on which aic^*'^' they are likewise called inhabitants of mora or fens; and the chace and fishery have *^^ been with each of them their chief occunaii and trade. ' "' The Mongoles, a nation remarkable' as fl disturbers of the world, every where extcin]! their ravages, as if the annihilation ot'thr. !,„J III I • 1 • »•■■». liliini\[] race had been their ultimate object. Had their violences brought about revolutions inilu st.:te of governments and of mankind, iind pm duced consequences that are still visible historian would never have prolaiiod his pen bi recording the catastrophies of these barburimi, .i!id their bloody trophies would alon|^ ii>r,) lij,j been consigned to oblivion. In the niiiih ((^^ tury three nations appeared roaming about ti, northern side of China and the Korea; in tlij west, or in mode/n Mongolia, the Mon-r-i, were in the sequel called Monk-kos, unij Mml goles. Part of these people arc the saiiifi with the Tunguses. The Mongoles, at prcsfn among the inhabitants oi' the Russian enipnf, in the seventeenth century withdrew tlieiiiichei from the Chinese dominion, and vohnitarilv put themselves under the Russian supfeiuacv. TIk Russian Mongoles inhabit the regions about liie Selenga in the Irkuttkoi district of the go\m' ment of Irkutsk. A fourth primitive stock of the nations dwellmir in Russia are lIutTiirtars, who compose a di§iiiict nation which originally belonged to tlic frrat Turkish stock. The Hrst known uiother-cdimirr of the Turks or Tartars lies on the eastern anil northern sides of the Caspian, where liieir ili scendants have still their seats. Fornierh iliet were s|)read from the Oxiis (»r (jfiiion int. ii;e Mongoley and the Orcabiiig territory , liite they served from time immemorial as a iiiuiukI against the incursions of the nations m bo uoull penetrate from the east to the west or contrariwk, till at length the Mongoles, tike a rushint^ ^\ms that has burst its banki, swupt away all oppoji' tiun, aud established several indepcndciit km;!' t .,i«r*i i ^;;i! i :f ' ! ■"*• ,;' 1 i-'ifll m •; M ., -rl! N. L '' 1 *S "if. M iiifili iiiiinii fji f!M-' -^^jmfftf^^^^'^f^rf III, 1114 iwyuiLii, TOOKE'S VirW OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. 515 wliich were, liowever, after a lapse of, i'vearS) subjugated in their conquered coun lI and the whole remains of this nation^ once ttiii, now subsist under foreign sovereignty. ,' hordes belong, either as subjects, or as 'jent wards of the Russian empire; others [,! in like manner appanages to the Ottoman Turk or subject to the great Mogul, to China, U to Persia. The Tartars belonging to the Russian empire inhabit the northern coasts of the (ujiiie and the Caspian, the north side of the hiica!*ean Mountains, the extensive steppes I the river Ural to the Soongarey, the south- UUral, in Siberia, the southern frontier moun- liins and steppes from the Tobol quite over the \tn\iiey, and the deserts in the middle region of iic Lena; likewise not a few Tartar colonies are dis- lersed among the Russian habitations, particular- hlnthcgovernmentsof Ufa, Kazan, and Tobolsk. I As these regions have for the most part, since llic flotirishing epocha of the Mongole-Tartarian bnarchy, been inhabited by them, frequent me- LialH arc found there of their ancient grandeur, Uni licence, and culture, of which some are lifaii antiquity demonstrably of above a thousand Mrs, It is no rare thing to come suddenly upon lie ruins of some town, which, in its crumbling tcmains, plainly evinces the progress which the |(ts liad made among a people whom we are Lt to consider as barbarians*. Still more fre- luently are seen sepulchres, which, by their in- biptions, throw light upon the history of this lalion; and, in the vessels and implements pre- ved in them, supply us with interesting proofs If its opulence, its taste, and its industry f. The tartars, next to the principal nation, constitute Btemost numerous part of the inhabitants of the pssian empire^. The branches of this nation khich belong to Russia are, the Proper Tartars, I • Near Kasimof, on the Oka, a circle town of the joiernmcnt of Riazan, is standing a Tartarian suburb, phirh seems formerly to have been the court rusiduncc of I khin. Among the ruins is a lofty round tower, an Itituryor chapel, the remains of a palace and a mausoleum, constructed of brick or burnt tiiov. Not far from Istrakhan n\"i the ruins of the old Astrakhan ; and higher l|i ihc Voli^a, near Tzaritzin, similar heaps of rubbish, ihicli hare evidently been a spacious town. On the Volga, Iflnw the mouth of the Kama, are found well preserved pil partly magnificent remains of the ancient Urachtimof, rBulgar. In the citadel of Kazan are still seen monuments if the Tartarian monarchy. On the Irtysb, in the vicinity Vol. II. No. CVII. the Nogayans, the Meschtscheryaks, the Basch- kirs, the Kirghises, the Bukharians, tlit! Yu- kutes, and the Tclcutcs; to which may in some sort be added the tribes of Caucasus. The Mandahure swarms com prise two nations, viz. the Mandshures or Mandshu, und the Tungiises. Both nations arc related by descent, as appears from their traditions, their language, and their bodily structure. Tie whole <»f these people together possess extensive countries and deserts in eastern Siberia and in the northern Mongolia: the Mandshu arc even still very pow- erful; one of their princely families being ia hereditary possession of the ttirone of China. The Mandshu, particularly the Daourian stem of that people, while they mhabitcd the modern Russia, were by no means an uncivilised people. According to their written accounts and traditions, they had a constitution composed of nomadic and civil parts, and adapted to their situation, their mode of life, and their various exigencies. They lived peaceably among themselves «nd with their neighbours, sedulously attending to agri- culture, grazing, and mining. Traces are still seen about the Bargusin and other rivers, of their gardens, orchards, and fields artfully laid out, and watered with artificial water-courses. The Daourian mine works on the banks of the Ar^ goon, still famous under the name of Nertschins- kian Mines, as well as all Daouria, afford nu- merous proofs of the mineral labours of the an- cient Daouarians. ^ u ■'. That the Tunguses originally composed one people with the Mandshu, is apparent not only from the resemblance of their features, manners, and customs, but also chiefly from the agreement of their languages. The Tunguses called them- selves (Evoees, probably from the supposed founder of their race; or, in the manner of most of Tobolsk, are the remains of Sibir, the capital. In Sibe> ria, and the Kirghisian steppe, are many ruins of towuj not to mention memorials of inferior consequence. f In the Museum of the Imperial Academy of Sciences at St. Petersburg, arc preserved a nrailtilude of vessel!,, diadcmH, weapons, military trophies, ornaments of dress^ coins, &.C. which hare been found in the Tartarian tombs on the Volga and in Siberia. They are of gold, silver, and copper; The greatest antiquity of the tombs h eleven hundred years, the latest four hundred. j; Not long since it was to ; but at present, owing to the last division of ilUfated Poland, the Poles are more n m- merous than the Tartars. 6R ■ ■•: ^* M l<" 'i a riili; I 1 ^|ife'|il'lh;r ri 516 TOOKK'S VIF.W OF THK RUSSIAN KMPinK. of the Siberian tribes, from the word which in their language signitic!) men. The exlmsive dest-rts, in whicli they have now their nomiidizing scats, reach from west to east, from the Yenissey across the Lena as far as the Ainoor and the Eastern Ocean. From north to soutli they kce|) between the 5.'jd and (iuth degree of north latitude, and accordingly neither touch upon the Soongarian borders nor the coasts of the Frozen Ocean. Being a very accommodating people, they have admitted into these their .seats; namely, the Ostiaks, Samoyedes, and particu- larly Yakutans. The districts are mostly in the government of Irkutsk. W hen the Russians at- tacked the Tunguscs, the latter displayed more courage than the other Siberians, and not till the close of the sixteenth century were they brought into that iinperfect state of submission in which they arc held at present. The Tunguses on the coasts of the Eastern Ocean arc known by the name of Lamuts. Besides the several nations which have been mentioned, and the branches arising from them, there dwell in the Russian empire some nations whose origin is utterly uncertain, and who seem to stand in no relation with the branches that are known. These, from several particulars, may be reduced to two classes, one comprising the Hamoyedian, and the other the Eastern Siberian Nations. The history and the origin of the Samoyedes is not more known even among the people them- selves, than by the Russians and the rest of Eu- rope. Leading a nomadic life in bleak and savage deserts, without the arts of writing and chronology, they endeavour to save from oblivion the memory of their transactionsiand heroes only by songs; which, perhaps with some truth for their foundation, are embellished with so many fabulous additions, that even this mode of tra- dition allbrds us no means of becoming acquaint- i:d with their ancient state. The cold and track- less wilds of the Samoyede nations have never yet been trod by the foot of any inquisitive traveller; the collectors of the tribute and sur- veyors, from whom we might expect some sort uf information, have naturally more in view their proper business and the advantages of trafiic, than the collecting of historical accounts; and out of their territory individuals from the Siainoyedc tribes arc very seldom seen. The pre- ■'4 sent home of the proper Samoycdos arc (lif of the Fro'/x'n Ocean, from "ulh^it the (ijlj'"? gree of north latitude, quite up to the sci|.,i Novaya Zemlia indc<'d is not inhabittdliyV,'^ but eastward across the Yeniss^-y exlciid't coasts on which they live up to the 7jHi(if„ of latitude. In these regions, the coldest, riiif and most desolate of all the earth, dwell Samoyedes, solitary indeed and scattered iv the ^Vhite Sea to the the hislni of the world. This mingled mass of people, extremely numerous, presents a spectacle whic 1 TOOKIO'S VIFW OF THl", RUSS5IAN EMPIRE. 517 I tbel''g'''y Interestin;^ to every refliuling- ob- I >f ItH physical, civil, unci moriil state, r'*ijjj grand aiid instructive pittiirt;, in wliicli „.,.n all tlie modiliciitidns whcrcoi this stale, Jllie most various causes and operations, is ;ei)til''c- * t^o'"'"*'"**''y '*" the history of r'likiiid' illustrative ofthe {>radua] developeuicnt n j^.jlixiitioa by the most lively and striking ex- r |l(,__On the whole scale of human nature, 11] the rude and brutal condition to the siuninit fseiisil)!^ and intellectual reiinement, there is jriflva remarkable transition which may not matched from the list of these people. Here ^e seen nations of hunters and fishers, roaming ;it their forests, without permanent liubita- iDfls, defying all dangers and inditlereiit to the (Oiimiodations of life, who have scarcely any iilioii of property, who feed upon raw flesh id unprepared fruits, and wrap themselves in skiiw of the beasts with which they contend ,1 tlieir existence, and by which they sustain leir lives. — Near to these we find pastoral na- idQ), obtaining their nourishment, their clothing, id even a sort of atlluence solely from their locki and herds; living with them in njoveable oljon everlasting perambulations, and passing leirdiivs in a patriarchal simplicity of manners, geriiilv without the art of writing, and without knowledge and use of money. — Again, we yd nations, who devote themselves to the iboiirs of agriculture, carrying ou their various cupations, one while incomplete and directed injjle objects, at anotiier on a general scale id with ingenuity and industry. We observe t progress of culture, in regions where the virgin Lrtli, the first time for thousands of years, opens It bosom to the strange hand of the countryman ; iidwhere,insteadof temporary huts of felt, houses y villages arise to our view. — With equal sur- m we see villages changed into towns, and Uses into palaces, where productive industry IS erected her manufactories, and where dili- jtoce collects the products of the distant parts fdie world for traflic. Asall the gradations of living arc fonnd among le inhabitants of the Russian empire, so we see ISO examples of all the modifications of civil Institution. , Among the Tschuktsches and the liiabitants of the Eastern Isles we scarcely find idea of social connection; among other na- bos in the east of Siberia and among tb«i Lap- landers, we perceive in the family goTernment of f.itl.> rs and elders, the first rude sketch of niouarcliy ; but fur more considerable is the num- ber of those who divide themselves into stems und hordes, vvhieli are again parted into races. A pure democracy is discernible in the generality of the branches of the Kozaks; while the Kaj- mucs and Kirghises have a mixed republican- monarchy. Not less numerous arc the cor- ruptions of these several forms of government, wliieh at List dissolve into the elements of un- limited moniirehy. — Some nations have a family nobility hereditary in their oH'spring; whileothers have odly a |)crsonal nobility, founded on the respectability of age, on the influence of wealth, or on the brilliancy of personal talents. — Of all the moditications of civil constitution none is per- haps so singular as the military democracy of the Kozaks, the essence and aim of which is war, and even of which we have been witnesses of a corruption, in its denying the other half of the hunniii rac(! all civil and domestic community. Not less edifying and diversified is the view of the religious ideas and forms of worship which these nations have .idoptcd for the service and the honour of the Supreme Being. We find in the Russian empire not only the generality of the known parties and seats of the Christian faith, but the Jewish, the Mahammedan, the Lama, und the Sehamane religions have here their numerous votaries.— From the most mon- strous polytheism to the total unacquaintance with any idea of a supreme intelligence, there are innumerable windings in which the human in- tellect may stray, and the religious opinions of the savage and half-savage tribes of the Russian empire present us with no inconsiderable sup- plement to the history of these aberrations. Great as the dilference is between the modes of life, constitutions, and religions of the inha- bitants of the Russian empire, so motley and various is also the picture of their physical con- dition, their manners, customs, dresses, dwellings-, utensils, and wenpons. What a contrast between the flat, broad, beardless physiognomy and the yellow figure painted skin of the cast Siberian nations, and the European form and complexion of the several genuine Russian stems! What a distance from the earth-holes of the Samoyedcs to the palaces of residence, from the needlework of iisk bones and sinews to the weaving of tapestry. I Mm ! ' !:t li'! i:' mm ;4. :' ! . 1 m 't \V '' ■ ; 'i,;!'. 518 TOOKF.'S VIRW OP THE RUSSIAN EMPIRR. tapcblry, from the sling and llie arrow J, of the Imperial Medical College, whose foundation forms a new and important cpocha in the history of physic in Hussiti*. nluch has been done since the time of Peter the Great to advance the knowledge uf the heaN ingart by the foiDiding of hospitals, establishing of apothekes, and inviting of foreign physicians. The sphere of this imperial college extoids over the whole body of physic, and all medical per- sons throughont, excepting only the medical establishment of the court. It is its duty to seo that all the governments and circlea are provided with the requisite physicians, surgeons, and apothecaries, according to the imperial, precept; it watches over the observance of the duties of every individual under its direction, and has in* herently the power to reward and to punish. It has the inspection over the management of the apothekes belonging to the crown, over the hos- pitals and seminaries of education. It examines all physicians, surgeons, and operators before they can be permitted to practise in the empire, from which even academical testimonies and de- grees will not exempt, and publishes in the Gazette the names of the persons to whom that perinissiot; is granted. It is competent to confer the degree of doctor in medicine. On learning that some infectious distemper has any where made i(s appearance, it loses no time in adopting the proper means for stopping its progress. Lastly, it attends to the improvement of the healing art in genernl; and to this end collects the cases transmitted by the several physicians of the empire, and publishes them from time to time in the Latin languagcf. It is only of late years that hospitals have been founded in Russia for th" sick, but they now be- come pretty numerous. _ The town hospital of St. Petersburg, which was founded in 1784, is built in one of the skirts of the city, and consieti of a large, brick, insulated building of handsome but simple architecture. The ground floor is devoted to the oeconomical purposes of the in- stitution, and the upper stories are occupied by ■f Among other establishments in ditTercnt parts of the fmpire, the college, in 1795, erected its own printing oflice^ with a type.foundcry adjoining, which has already ))iiblUh> cd several works, the typographical neatness whereof does honour to tho overseer. 'i'i 6S the '..*» :'\ i 5iO TOOKK'S VIFAV OF TIIF RUSSIAN F.MI»IUr!. itic patients. The rooms arc lofty and. spacious; nnd instoud of ventilators, hoiiic of tliu window shutters are puiiiielk'd with wire work. This liouse receives uti necessitous patients, venereal excepted, and attends their cure without fee or reward. All patients on admission arc imme- diately hatlied and have their heads shaven: this done, they receive the hospital clothinc:, and severally a hed. In 1790 six contiguous buildings of tiuibiT on bricit foundations were erected be- liind the main ((lifuo, by the college of general provision, and furnished with two bundled and lifty bcdn. In the mad house, which with its small end abuts upon the back, front of the main structure, is upon the liHme footing, and under the same direction, are forty-four rooms in two ranges, the one for male and the other for female lunatics. A broad passage divides them; the door of each chamber is fastened with a spring latch, which tiie keeper can open from without. The raving are not confined with chains but with leather thongs, while the quiet arc sutfered to walk freely in the passage or in the court. The whole e.Ktublishment, treatment, method of cure, and diet, are well conducted, as plainly appears from their cH'ects. Beside the above and many others of a similar description, there are several Military hospitals, both for land and sea forces. For the land forces, exclusive of the two general land hos- pitals at St. Petersburg and Mosco, there arc fourteen large Held hospitals at Astrakhan, Bogoyavlensk, Kherson, Kriukof, Riga, Reval, Elizabethgorod, Orenburg, Vyborg, Frederiks- ham, Kazad, Lubenau, Smolensk, and in Cau- casus, without reckoning the battalion lazarets, which are everywhere in great numbers. The Miiitar) hospital at St. Petersburg has commonly a thousand beds; but in time of war, and when recruits are raising, the npaiber is twice or three times as great. The eleven Naval hospitals at present subsisting are at St. Petersburg, Cronstadt, Oranien.baum, Riga, Archangel, Iva/an, Taz-inrok, IJogoyav- Icnsk, Kherson, Reval, and Sevastopol. The Naviil hospitiil at Cronstadt during the Swedish ■w.ir was obliged to admit annually from sixteen thousand eight hundred to twenty-live thousand Mill UUU * On (he in.Tniu'r in which thi'j beiii'firi.-il plan is cxrcutcd nc will hear at least one witness, hy citing the judgiucut of patients, a circumstance which may ^t^■ shew the amazing extent to which these ho'* ore extended. Exclusive of the above there arc liomes f lying-in-women, foundling hospitals, siimll i," hospitals, and pest-houses: a particular {Icic!" tion of them all would be unnecessary v shall, however, say a i'ew words on tlic I'oumi ling llospiral at Mosco, which is a most , J and benclicent institution, by far exccfdiiiini of London. *= '"* This foundling hospital receives cliilihei, all hours of tin: day or night, without any (,n, tion being put to the bringer, except \vii!t|,e the child has been baptized, and wlii'thor ii a name. Children may also be carried to pariidi priests, or to «he monasteries aiul m, houses of thoi city, w ho inunediutcly send the away to the I'liundling hospital, when; (he liverer receives two rubles for each rhild. 'n: is truly great. The carriers of.su(li cl)i|,lic:ia„ by day and night under the special prolaii,,,, „ the police. At the reception of every child, day, the time, and the sex arc noted in a bu with all that the bringer declares of thccircm. stances of the child, the clothes and other arlici that he brings with it, and the birth marks ai, tokens observed upon it. Hereupon the baptisi ensues, if not already administered; the name entered in u book, and a little crucifix is hur round its neck with the number under which it registered. It is now examined by the siirgcoi and brought to the childrens' rooms, wlure receives new linen and clothes from the magazini meanwhile the articles of dress brought with i if they be not too miserable, are deposited i magazine apart, there to be kept. The childn are either suckled "by strong and healtli) mirif arh of whom can nourish two babes, or dcli\(ri to dry nurses who bring them up with other tooi The physical education alone contimics tw years, when they come into the great rmiiiii Till the sixth year boys and girls remain ther, and during this period arc habiiiiairtl t easy employments. >Vi(h the seventh i)c.;iih lb moral and civil education; thenceforwaid t! preservation of the physical existence UmwU dinate object*. In the lirst twenty vears miii the opening of this hospital, including lim a sagacioHS and attentive observer, who, hcinj,' an I'.n^b mail aud a traveller, could probably have nu iniiTo'i disSl'Dliill TOOKF.'S VIFAV OF TIIF. RUSSIAN FMPFRF. 6'Ji , In tlie liouic, tlicro were adniiltcd tliirty- I illiflU8a«nl six luindred and bevuii children. — h\\t aie Hcvi-rttl other bospitaU on u similar pliiii founded in diflferent pnrfs of the nnpirc, parliciilarly at St. Petersburg, Tula, Kaluga, Yaru^lafj Kaxuu, &c. SECTION V. . ' J^aturitl Chnraclerintlcs of llic Inhabitants. J ijlE Rn'sians are a modcratc-si/od, vif^oroii*, ami (lurahle race of men. Tiic growth of tecnand longevity of this people are very dillVr- iii (liU'eicnt districts; but in general rather larffi lliii" siniill, and the_y are coiujuonl)' well It is vci'v rare to see a person naturally iflJmiPil; which doubtless is chielly owing to Lr loose garments and the great Variety of Ljlv exercises. All the sports and pastimes of lif voiilli have a tendency to expand the body I'lrive (li'.vihility to the muscles. \hs\ as it is occasionally by comparison to |j(niiiiii!ite the Russian by his outward make JOB) ollii-r Europeans, it will, liowever, be found Ldiiiit'iiltto point out the principal lineaments fthe national physiognomy; as speaking fea- kre$ arc in general extremely rare. The follow- ^niav be deemed common and characteristical ; Kiiall month, lliin lips, white teeth, little eyes, ]|(W forehead ; the nose has a great variety of iii<: it is most frequently seen to be small and Init-d upwards. The beard is almost always Itvbusliy; the colour of the hair varies through Jjllii' shades from dark brown to red, but it is jldoiii quite black. The ex prcssion of the coun- liomMini! the truth. " 'I'lu' rooms of tho foundling hos- lul." >a)s Mr. Coxe. " arc lofty »nd liirijo; the dormi- jrifs, which arc soparatc from (he work.rooms, arc very Ij, anil (ho hi'ds arc not crowded: each foundling, even I infant, has a separate bed ; the bedsteads are of Iron ; liffis are cliar>i^ed every week, and (he linen three tiin-s I'tk. Ill going over the rooms' I was particniarly striieii III tliiiriu'atness ; even the nurseries were uncommonly |an, and without any unwholesome smells. No t.radles alliiMod, and rockiiig is particularly forbidden. The iin's aio nut swaddled accurdinir (o the custon\ of the lintrv, but lousily dressed. I could be no jnil^e, merely |ti faded at an age when the' husband is just entering on his prime. Among the collateral branches of the Russian stock but few variations are discernible in the bodily form. The Malo-Russians have some- what of the Poles in their physiognomy; the Donkozaks partake of the Tartarian, and the Uralkozaks of the Tartarian and Kalmuck, which proceeds from the commixture, wherein these people have long been accustomed to live. With all of them, however, the main lineaments are Russian, and so impossible to be mistaken, that the form of the face alone affords the strong- est proof ^f their parentage. The bodily frame of the Russians is excejient. Their happy organization, their cheerful and blithe temper, that hardness which they oppose to every inconveniency, the natural simplicity of their manner of living, and their rude, but dry and whc'esome climate, procure to the great mass of the people a degree of physical com- placency of which few other nations can boast. There are not many peculiar diseases prevalent aniong the Russians, and against most of them they know how to guard themselves by simple diet and domestic remedies. The women every \ where bring forth with great facility, and usually , in the bath-rooms; the number of still-born : children is therefore, in comparison with other i Countries, extremely small. There the small pox and measles carry off not nearly $o m children as in the greater part of the rest of p"' rope; but on the otli< r hand the eflccts of real disorders are more dangerous and infoct: the virulence of it being unhappily iiicrpasoir vciie. the cold. — In Siberia, sometinies >» summer, , disease called by the Germans the histseuclio ,■ sickness appears, an emidcniical disease a? Jt shews Ksclf |,j bodv, aiul, if ai tacking both man and beast a bile on some parts of the speedy assistance can be had, is mortal, tho * The use of the bath, that venerable relic of the man- ners of the ancient world, is now almost entirely confined to the oriental natioiis, where it ministers both to health and to luxury, and h perpntnatcd by religion. In Europe jt has beer gradually declining forneveral centuries, thtiigh it ^\'as here also s in this (tuartcr ')f the world, where it is still ihc custom to Lath'! after the 'I'aniier of th". ancient's. In Russia particu- larly the bath makr^ so muc^ apart of the system of living, that t is used I'y people of every age ."ud in all circnm. «itanc >8, by infants, by women at their lyt'.ig.in, in almost, . ait si kncsses, before and after a'journey, after hard work, iic. The bath is a utcessary of life so iDdispoasiliic to luO not infettious; but they have now found outj easy and safe method of cure.— About the Up J Lena croups or goitress arc common eiioiiih yoimg people however, get quit of (hem j, coming to parh where they have better water- In the ncighbourho id of thv^ Caspian there is horrible, {edious, and deadly leprosy, whirhhai pily, however, becomes less and less frequent its attacks, and is generally called, from former country, the Krimean disease. Most of the household remedies of the comnio Russians arc truly heroic. A mixture of leeh garlic, Spanish-pepper, and brandy, seems wi( them to be the grand panacea, and is gnplie without regard or distinction in all diseases ( whatever kind and haw opposite soever; soali aconite, hellebore, and the like, arc 'n hi; reputation for their medicinal virtues. Inptii and aches of the bones or limbs, and in cholidi complnints, they burn moxa of artemisia, 4 on the bare skin. — In geaeral the common Ru sians use but few medicines; supolving the place in ali cases by the sweating baths: aprai tice so universal among them, and which ha$i decided an influence on the whole physical sta of tl people, that we must absolutcl} little longer upon it *. n common people, that th ?y frequent it as often ss pos'J! well or ill, and without any particular orcasion once week at least. Persons of the middle stuliun, iiigoodd ciimstances, and the f:,ri'at, usually construct vapxir I] after the Russian fashion in thuir own liuu!>e$; Ihon^lil these classes the practice is becoming more cunliutil | foreign nmnners gain ground among them. The biiths have been common throughout Ttus.iiafro time immemorial ; they uri-. described by Nestcr .iu loiigii as the eleventh century precisely as they are coiisdluidj present.— Among the ancients thc1)aths were public ImiiT ings, under tho immediate cognizance of th - Kovirnimi Their invcntio'' was owing to cleaniiu''., \uA toiiTcniciKJ but in tbo sequel all the gracei of art.l^.t,..(urs wcrcLiiiitj ♦ -^ TOOKF/S VIT'W OF TIIF, RUSSIAN FMPFRK. 523 Tlic Russian language is an improved dialect I f tlii';Uii^"in'Hn, which, with its chtiracters is II ji, lis,; ill the olllce of religion. The Russian I l,,,l„,t has foitj-one letters, whereof soukj arc I nlv iintes of aceeiits in promiriciatioii. The 'l ' |.|,ri. IS riih in word?, soft, expressive, and j j^ij|.,., .vreat pliancy in the organs of utterance. Ifeiiiiwiiw liavo been foiauied of old in the epis- l < seals; gvninasiuins and thi! universities of |Kicl'aii'lM"s<'oare fiMnuhilionsofgreat antiquity. iTIii're «'iis however, a delicieney in scliooU; and Itfctr'i'iirc the late empress was constantly adding 1(0 their iiinid)er. BesiJcs these, hero arc in;di- lliilioii- 'ni, iiiul at Ipngth liixuiy and Toliiptiiuusncss so dis- Licl tlu'iii from thi'ir priiiiilive purposes, that tki-y were i;ii.n,iii'iiiKl shocking evi'ii to Jh« moralists of antiqi:ity. lk\aiiilor «.!'• ustoiiished at the niagiii licence of the l)uliis iPirsiii: iitHonu', under tUc emperors, there were once Liiiliiimlud and «cv('nty of these edifices, that in point of hjnilicoiuT and in.sie ii)iij;ht pass for master-pieces of art; IrJvihitli wi'if doomed in aflcrtintes to be demolislied by loih.S or converted into churches by bishops. — In our iistliMig.iry i< the only co"nlry that can still slicvv baths Iqiialin nia;,'i.iilci.'nce to those of the ancient Uoinans, In iuiiia. 0" the contrary, they are always of that simple |l)!l^l^ul•,loll which bespeaks tlicir 'riii.itive and inostesscu- ilJt'slliK'.tion. litre tlji> pi:blic baths usually consist of mean wooden |o;iKS, .situated, whenever it is possible, by the side of a liiiiiMiiV't''''ain. In the bath-room is a lari;e vaulted oven, kliicli hIii'ii heated makes the paving-stones lyin:; njioii it i.hut; and adjoining tc the oven is a kettle fixed in ina- fciirv, for the |)iirpose of holdinu; boilinu; water. IJouiid pout the walls are three or four rows of bniclies one above iihfrlik" the scats of a scafl'old. 'J"he room has little fchl, but here and there arc apertures for lettii'n the vapour loa;,e: die cold wate; (hat is waniini; liein!^ let in by small launch. Some baths have an anti-chamber f<»r dressiiij; id iiiiiliTssini; ; but in the most of them (his is done in the bill fmirt-yanl, wliich on that accoui'.t h.:s a bordered pre. iind ij provided with benches of planks. Hv far the majority of the baths arc constructed as they cliiTi! ilescribed. In tfce country, in part.s w here wood is (iirco, iiicy sonielimes consist of iiiiserable ( avv riis. com. kinlyiliig in the earth close to the bank of some liu'r. In ; Vol. IF. No. C VIII. every necessary article, s'.icli as board, Iodeini»?, food, raiment, wasliing, «S;c. and are depiisden* 01) (he foimdation. Accordingly the entrance into these .schools is accounted a service rendt red to (lie country; and in letkoniiig the years of service, in order to promotion in rank, the years of attendance at schoid are always intludiul. The native Russians arc of ditllriMit stature; some arc very fall, hut few nuiclt below (he usual hoigh( ; several of them arc remarkably stron."" limbfeil ; in p:cncral they are lean, hut well built. Tlidse dei'oiiniiies which in other |>arts (»f Eu- rope are mostly owing to the relincincnls of luxury introduced info educafion, are here birt rarely seen: their mouth and eyes arc small, the lips thin, the teeth evci and beautiful, the nostr, as every where, variotis, in general noi large nor very aquiline; the ft)rehcad frequently h)\v, ind their aspect rather grave: (he heard ''s strong and bushy, their hair lank, hr.)wn, Ib.xen, or red, seldom entirely black: in sight and hearing they are uncommonly acute: (he organs of feel- ing, smell, and taste, are hardened, like all (he rest of their body, by the rudeness of their cli- thc houses of wealthy individuals, and in (he ji.iiaces of (lis great, they are formed upon th ' same i.jn.struction, but in. linitely more ele-^ant and convenient The h(!at in the bath-room is usually from (hirfy.fwo to forty degrees of Reaumur, and that greatly incr'.'a^ed by >he throwing of water every five minutes on liu' i;liiwiiii; hot stones in the chamber of the oven. By this means the heat often rises, especially on the uppermost bench, (o forty, four degrees of that thermometer.- -The bailiers lie, stark naked, on one of the benches, where they perspire more or •ess in proportion to the heat of the humid ;iliiios|ihcre in which th -y arc enveloped. In order the better to promii!n perspl'ation and comj)letely to open ihe pores, they ar* first rubbed, ,'nd then gently fiat,nlliied with leafy biauchssi of birch. After remaining awhile th-y comedown from the sweating-bench and wash their body with warm or coll w."!i'r, and at last plun/,e over head in a large tub of water. Many people throw tl'cmselves immediately from the bath room into the adjoinii!^ river as the youths of ancient Korioli'i.t sweating.baths which to a p';rsoii not h.iliidiated to the practice, bring ou a real, tluuigh a gentle ami almost voluptuous swoon. They are tapour baths, not water, nor yet dry sweating.baths ; herein they ililtor from all the baths of antiquity as well as from those of tlio modern orientals ; and this is also tlici'- essential excellence, (liat they are ...^nelicial in such a variety cf cases where hot water baths wottUl be useless or even pernicious. G T m.i(c i -'U \t !■' ,i 'iH ^1' • ;,B il - f :;. J. »li 524 TOOKE'S VIEW OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. mate and manner of life. They are mostly of a choleric temperament; in gait and action they are brisk, lively, and agile. The complectiou of the females is brunette, witb ■\ fine skin; many of them very handsome. Gil 13 generally arrive early at maturity, numbers in their twelfth or thirteenth year; but many of them lose all their beauty after being married about a couple of years. The frequent use of the hot bath promotes an early devclopement, and as speedy a decay ; and the hideous practice of painting spoils the skin. The general disposition of the people is gay, careless even to levity, much addicted to sensuality, quick in comprehension, and prompt in execution. Violent in their passions, they easily mistake the golden mean, and not unfrequently rush into the contrary extreme. They are attentive, resolute, bold, and enterprising. To trade and barter they have an irresistible impulse. They arc hos- pitable and liberal, frequently to their own im- poverishment. Anxious solicitudes about the future here cause but few grey pates. In their intercourse with others, they are friendly, jovial, complaisant, \ery ready to oblige, not envious, slanderous, or censorious, and much given to reserve. From their natural and .simple way of life, tl'" - Wiiiits arc few, and those easily satis- fied, leaving them leisiue for recreations and re- jtose ; and (lie constant chee'Tulness of their tem- per frees tlicm from troublesome projects, pro- cures them satisfaction in all situations, keeps them healfhy and strong, and brings tlicm vo an undisquieted, contented, brisk, sometimes a very advanced old age. In the diflerent villiigcs all over the empire ve see the nnu'lianical businesses of towns carried on; but more especially in the parts adjacent to the Volga, and in the vicinity of the governments of Mosro, Nishney-Novogorbd, and Kazran. The employments of the female sex, both in (own and country, vary but little from those in the neighbouring countries. They see to the cleanliness of the house, spin, weave linen and coarse cloth on frames, in quality but little in- ferior to what is brought from fieraiany; they bleach, full, and colour, knot the ends of the threads for a span long, for talile cloths, neck cloths, &c. make felt, bake bread ev^-ry day, &c. In general they are kept closer to work, and fare harder than is customary amor.g their European neighbours. The country market towns and haml.* commonly open; and are mostly built gular streets, with little kitchen-ganl '' "'1 large yards to the houses. They arf .iS . the banks of the rivers, since the di"** 1 wells IS not in practice: as in most parffu. the roads and streets are frequently madT'f . hers, or banks h-id close together, naw ""'* upper pa^t made flat with the hatcliet. TheJ 'ng till contam many, not large, but jrood'lnJI churches, mostly of brick and plaistcr Sj monasteries m and near the towns, from (1 I strong walls, massy gates, and nuuicrous ch„ J towers, hare the appearance of tustlcg Tk fortresses dispersed about the country h seldom earth-ramparts, mostly batteries of b,!! aid one on the other, in the same .mnncr they b-..ild heir house.; and about thcscaloi palisade. Ihc cannons stand on tlie .rates an upon the angles of the ramparts or batteii'., wooden carriages. Their design iMo ii i,h tributary tribes in awe, and tlie \,< .-Ail nomades from the borders. Ostrog >, ,,^„ surrounded with a palisade of upright pointd banks, are either in towns, where thev sorvei prisons for criminals, or solitary in various nail of the country, for the same purpose as tlicfo, tresses, Villages, of extremely various dime] sions, ar.d parishes are situated on the inar^ ivers, brooks, Jakes, and sometimes oi.^mti morasses and springs. The parishes, orrhurj vijlages, are sometimes very extensive; and coil tain, it may be five hundred or even a thou J and m«)re tHrms, from three to seven cliurdi many of brick, markets, and trallickin}; plard Large villages are frequently called slobodl and are less than church villages: the lioiisisal ranged in strait streets, and the streets inosth with timbers. The proper Russian ardiiteclu is alike in towns and villages. A mcssua'ci sists of a dwelling-house, with little "slori rooms, stables, and d. stow, or hot bath, which the yard is enclosed. All these striictiid are built of banks, unhewn, placed on ol another, and notched into each other at the fol corners; sometimes, though hut rarely, on f brick foundation : these houses are covered wij boards, and w hen the owner can afl'ord it, wil oak shingles. The meanest dwelling-houscsco| sist solely of one little room, which lhercfore'| the door to the street. In it is an oven, taliif ilaei .[)■: to ' FTHl TOOKR'S VIEW OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRF. 525 almost one fourth part of the whole space; oiiiing to it, of equal height with the oven, ' broad shelf of board. Tlie top of the oven d this shelf are the sleeping places of the .jlv. The light is admitted into these houses roiieh two or three holes in the walls furnished th shutters, or through a little window of uscovy-glass, or only of bladder, oiled linen, Mper. l^hc smoke fnids its wny out as well it can through these apertures in the wall. ,^5^; rooms, as may well be suj) posed, are aj Ilk as a chimney, and, as all the household iiclions are performed in them, s:ich as biking, ,,|^ji,rr, washing, &c. it is hardly possible to fp thein clean. They arc called, with the ut- )'t propriety, black rooms. Under the floor (he room is a cellar*. The corn kilns are without the towns and vil- res. Places thus built must be very liable to ms firfs; *"^' >'heu once they break out, 'v rarely leave any thing unconsumed. The uschold furniture, both in town apd country, Ml among people of opulence, is very simple. (he room which, with very few exceptions, is the same time, the kitchen, are a table, nches, the sb^if, which serves for the dormi- ■V, and in tlie corner one or more holy figures, ^c lich have a great many of them, some with ns of beaten silver. Before these lamps or wax ndles arc kept constantly burning, or at least all the festivals, which amoinits to nearly the lie thing; so that many of these summer-rooms vethc appearance of little chapels. Culinary cnsiU, and those for the use of ti,.; table, arc few as can well be conceived. As vehicles fy n'.ake use of quite small open one horse rk tii >>mewhat larger, and iialf covered over nchil'^s cradle, also with one horse, with- in!':: i'o that a collateral horse can at any ,,i i>'-' p * to; both kinds of such a simple Ecliai, "h vhat almost any boor can make a wone, Of at least repair the defects of an old e, even upon the road. They are extremely rht and conunodious. — Splinters, like laths, of » A complete touii or counfiv Iioiisi>, for the sako of liiiga collur, stands raisod a fathom above the groimii, Jlus a black room and a wliite room, and bitwicn tht- 0, a small paksage. 'I'lic black. room lus frc(|Mcntl) a imm-y to (lie o»cii, and a winilow of glass or niailcnslas ; t the whitcroom has the oven of tiles, or bricks covered th plaster. The entrance, by acovered lliglit of «ooden [y: to 'h») aforcBjcntioiicd passagej is from the butk-jard, fir or vc»y dry birch-wood are much more com- monly used for giving light in the room^ after dark, than tallow-candles. The inferior houses are much pestered with domestic vermin; besides the common house-rat and mouse, they swarm with water-rats, bats, large beetles very frequent, orickets, bugs, fleas in abundance; various kinds of very troublesome Ties, gnats, moths, woodlicc; in southern low places frogs, toads, and tad- poles; in Siberia little beetles; and about the Tsliercmtshan, Lap- land beetles. The preparation for their victuals is so simple that foreigners do not easily bring themselves to relish it, but adhere to the custom- ary way of dressing their food in their own countries. Fresh meats with the watery sauce, or baked pasties of connnon crust, with minced-meat, or whole fish, fish with water and salt, without other sauce, cabbage and roots chopped together, cabbage-soup, which is never omitted, meagre fish and flesh soups, cool drink, qiias, with eggs, minced-meat, and leeks, pancakes, soup of ground hemp and linseed, millet-soup and grits, turned milk with meal and sour milk, &c. almost all seasoned with onions, leeks, garlic, and some- times pimento, are their ordinary dishes. Where Tartars dwell, they use likewise a few wild roots, especially dog tooth, lily-roots, and others. For the evening repast are served up nuts, orchard- fruits, and the several wild fruits produced by the country rourd; black strawberries, sloes, &c. At an entertainment of their friends and ac- quaintance they provide a surprising variety of these kind of dishes. The lower sort feed very poorly at all limes, but particularly in the fasts. In large towns, the table in good houses is be- coming more luxurious and fasluoiiable from day to day. The most common domestic drink is quas, a liquor prepared from pollard, meal, and bread, or from meal and malt, by an acid fermentation. It is cooling and well tasted. Corn-spirits, and rectiticd corn spirits, supply the place of wine. not from the street. The magazines or store-rooms are small ili'tachcd huts for provisions, corn, in short all the nt'ccs^ary stores. The stables are more hovels or sheds, open to the yard, or at nu).-,t fronted with wattles, paid «itli mortar; in the latter case they are called pokteti. The b.uh room ri>sembles a detached black-room. It stanils ilone; has an oven like the other, siuoke-holes, a water tub, bruslicS) aud benchei raited one ab^vc another. M'h *K' J i>"U !'i I'l . 1 A ;( ,»i'k M. 'h- :'i- ri !l!!;|l' .'1 ' . I'. 520" TOOKI-?S VIFAV OF TIIR UU8SIAN EMPIRF!. In good liotises are friiit-winos, rasbcrry-wiiie, clicrry-winc, bilbcrry-wino, &c. from the juices of tliose fruits, inccd and brandy made by fcr- iiuMitation, wliicli are pleasant enou^li to the })alatt' Tea is in very general use. The true Russian tea, is a decoction of honey, water, and S])aiiish pepjier, and drank warm. It tastes well and cheers the stomarh. In the article of dress they adhere as faithfully, in the country towns and villages, to the manners of their fathers, as they do in food and lodging. The noblesse, all the oHicers in the civil de|»art- iiiciit; and, besides the light troops, the soldiery all over the empire, the merchants of the chief towns and those who trade with them, the mine- owners, and ahnost all the people of quality throughou;. the empire, dress after the German fashion; and the ladies, even in tlv remotest and most retired parts of the country, i" ••"" more modishly attired than would easily t> ;ined. The burghers and mercantile class, hov.. r, ge- nerally .speaking, stick cl(».se to the national dress, no less than the jjcasantry. The Russians are a race much liardened by climate, education, and habits of life, having their own peculiar usages, which have a greater aflinity with the Asiatic than the Kuropean, only without the effeminacy. They sleep on the floor, the hard benches, or the boards placed shelf-wise for that pur|>ose, in the suuuuer con- tentedly lying down in the open air, in the field, or the yard of the house, as they do in the win- ter on the top of th(^ oven without beds, or mere- ly on a piece of fell', scmietimcs with, and often without any pillow, either under a thin covering cr in their clothes. After performing their eve- ning devotions, accompanied with frequent prostrations and crossings, before the sacred ligures of the saints, they betake themselves early fo rest, and rise again betimes in the morning, wash themselves, renew tfu'V pious orisons, and proceed with alacrity to business. Into the houses of the great and opulent, even at a dis- tance from chief towns, feather !)eds, and late liours, with other lu.vuries, have long since found their way. AVhcnever acquaintance meet together, their term of greeting is, Zdravstvui*! or sometimes, Zdarovuif! accompanied with shakingof hands, * Which may lie rt'iidfrcd, All liail ! or God save (het! or good betide thcc! — Salve ! Sit bululi 1 taking oll'f he cap, bowing, and often Tvilh I i„' which is much in practice with both sexes v'"^' the lowest of the people greet one anolh-r V great civility. Inferiors kiss their suiicriar"" the breast, and of peoj)le sfill more dcvji"!) above t!u nii they kiss the border of ilu! >^aiin,,'t. and when the diiTerence is very grcut,^i'l;..v'ni j down and strike thoir foreheadHpoii (Ik; si,„. ' I the great man. When (liey have aiivdiiij!" i request, they assiune a tone and fRitaii- ^ ' they were imploring mercy. It is iiidccorons ('1 speak l(Mid in llie |)resence of superior:,; a„j ,■ any one happens to do so, he is pr(',cn(lv'iluil hi the bystanders, with ''Do not bawl !" Mhe,, man designs to honour his guests, he Ids his ^^^l and daughters appear, full-dressed, wlio kisjihj guests, and hand them what they want at (he en. tertaimnent. They seem to vie with one anothcrin the profusions of hospitality. Old age i^ n,,, versally honoured. On the breaking no oicim- panv. (hey depart, saying, " Prohha'i];!" ;,„j| never omiting (he valedictory kiss. On tliesh"!!;. est interruption or alteration to the ordiiury course of whatever (hey are about, at eniii" drinking, sneezing, at a sudden start, &i'. at 1^' sight of a particular place, of a churcli, Oic. tiny make the sign of the cross with (he fingers, on die foreliead, the stomach, and the shoulders bin. ing several times, and ".dding with a dcep-l'eklitj sigh : " The l.,ard Iiave mercv>) !" They have usually two meals in tlie day; in the forenoon about nine o'clock, and in the Kfui. noon at tliree. The family at these tiiiici ciaall together; and, when it is nunu-roiis, lii^t ilie males and afterwards those of the other snj They allow themselves but a short (lie.;; at t,ihle and arc easy and cheerful. Kveu anioiiij iheiii. ferior people, the table-linen, and vcsmIs m kept in great cleanliness. If strangers sitdowa w ith them there are very copious potations In. toxie;«tion is not disgraceful, and e ii mmf\ |)eople of good condition, if a lady he (ivirhUa in liquor, it is no subject of reproach, llioj are never quarrelsonu; or scurrilous in llitii(ii|H, but friendly, jovial, courteous, speak in pi.ue of the absent, and boast of their fricndsliip; mil thos,^ that are not able to stand, find reiulvai- sistance from those that can. On jotuiiies met chants and others lake (heir food wilh retiiiirk;iblv| + Itcalth! Sospcs! Sanii^! J Karowcli. ^ (Jospodi pomiliii! .-,;| 1 f lllll ill \ II !i U: :•. i i ■- 1 ^^' li- : T It ; 1 J. in';.- <• "I I" ■: i I . : .'. V'l J '^Iti- ■'• i :'i:; (,. ^ r ' 1 ' : '', Vi i^i :'. ■ ' 'J .-■n 4 ■ 1 '* f 1 il; fit 1:« 'Hi f'- .! I M ^ ii •"i ') i ll .:■ \ . :^:( I'i ■i. I'ii'^r- 1' .:^ 1 1 Vl S;- 'i\ i ■T :,, ll h ^ngmm^imrmifffmww^i''W!f I ■■ ■i,i-mmii)p(iiM TOOKF'S VIEW OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. 527* Lff formalities. In towns and great village It lions, /otncn sit in tlic street, near the public- |f_';vith tables liaviiig roast and boiled meat, If h pifogg'^^*' cabbage-soup, cucumbers, bread, I 'd qiiasj consequently a superb and every where cap repast, which is taken standing, and al- jvs accompanied with a glass or two of brandy. to li»t ""^ *^"'*^ bathing they are so habituated « I, their earliest infancy that the practice is in- Lnciisil'lc- They usually go into the hot bath Lf a wcpk, besides other frequent occasions, Lli as. aft'-'"' ^ slis^t indisposition, hard work, Intcliirniiig from a journey, and the like. They ■ llic bath very hot, heating the room with le stones made glowing red, and raising a jioiir by repeatedly throw ing w ater upon them ; Lioomall the while being so tight that no par- fl^sof lifat or vapour can transpire, Tlio halher LeUeiidccI naked upon a mat thrown on one of shches of the scatlold already described, [lichilie higher he ascends the greater the heat (l',,k ^\ hen he has thus lain perspiring for U liiiic, the waiter of the bath, generally a Lie, couies and washes his i)ody all »>vcr with kiwii'.or, bconrges and rubs him with bunches .jiV biicli, wipes him wiili cloths, and then lu'jiiiiu to lie and sweat as long as he chooses. Liilirrsoflhcni run from the hot bath into the U,l\Mtor flowing by, and in winter roll tliem- |h.> in the snow, without deriving any bad con- jjem'Os from it. IWiiii substantial people the marriage-contract Inude uitli mercan Ao punctuality; the com- frU'iiter into the nuptial state, for its pe- lir purposes, as young as they can; and, as I'piii;^ is not expensive, and as education liiiiiiicr attended with cost nor trouble, they ;;- uiiiiii at (lieir ease as bolbre. The be- | :,i;r is performed with ecrlesiastical rites, i r, A ci^iit (lays previous to the nicirriagv", | i^ iiidissuiulile. During this inh-j'saj, the | m is oiilv visited by the bridegroom and the mI hi'f acquuintance, who uiouse her with , 1,^ Oa the last evening the young women [; ilic liiide into the hot bath, vhere they ! It mi ;i(; up her hair all tlu! while singing { |aJs iijciiplive of her lulure happiness. The | [iiiiv is soil luiii/ed in the church befdre the I Miitiicr they proceed, with the figure of I siiiit (allied betore thcui. During the cere- ■y a (I'owit is put on each uf their heads. loL, II, No. CVIII. The priest, with due forms, changes (heir ringN, reads to them an admonition of their reciprocal duties, gives them to drink of a cup in token of the present union of their fortunes, and dismisses them with his blessing. At their return from cinirch the father of the bride presents the young- couple with a loaf of bread and some salt, ac- companied with a wish that they may never know the want of either, for which they thank him on their knees. They then sit down to su|)per. The national diversions of the Russians on holidays, at weddings, and other occasions of festivity, are very diversified, and have great re- semblance with those customary among the Per- sians, the Arabians, and Egyptians. Their music* is more usually vocal than instrumental. On th(i whole globe we shall scarcely meet with a country when; the song is more jovial and universal than in Russia. They all siii9,' fioni tli'? child to the hoary hrad, on all occasions, old women except- ed, even while at the most lulxnioiss anil toilsome work, and generally with all their might; the country roads re-eclio with the songs of the drivers, the village-sitrcets with the merry voices of the girls, and drinking houses are never with- out a concert. Their songs are simple recitations, ancient or modern; on the subject of love, natiu'e, and talcs of chivalry, giants, and heroes, fre- quently lewd, and th(>ir melodies uniform and monotonous, but sometimes pleasing enough. The little groups of girls sitting together of an evening and sin<(ing are verv entertaining. The men sing, from the fullness of their hearts, ex- ploits of soldiers or kozaks in time of war, or a thousand otln-r subjects that will* suit their own style of compositi(ui, and their tunes and their thoughtless ni.'irv disposiliiuis. reciting soinefimei single wcrds or lines from diiicrenl songs iu oery tune and Cor whole hours tugetlier. I'lie (lead are sinceielv and long lamented by their relations and fVieiid.s; but, tVoui a natura4 repugnance to the idea of death, they \\>c but little cerenjoiiv with tl'.c corpse. Thcv piit'on it a .shroud, then lay it in a coilin, in wlr.rli it is brought open, oniv covered with a piill ta the gr;ive, atfcuiicd hv priists, chiinlitig hxnin;, and bearing crosses and lighted tapers in their hands. Rcing conie to liie place of ititennent, the at- tciidauts take leive ol the body bv a kiss, give it • a blessing, tlien I'asten up the coliiii, liM it down into the grave, and siiovc;! in lliv; earth. On these (i U occasions 1 'V^ ,,' 1 1 ■p! i 11 '■.,i '4. 528 TOOKF.'S Vir.W OF THE RUSSIAN FIMPIRR. occasions the nobles and the rich put on black, but others make no chiin<;e in tlicir drcs*, Tlie lower sort bury tlicir (h'inl in tlicir ordiiuirv clolhcs. Sui h as die in (he barks upon the rivers are hikcn to tlie sliore by their companions, and tlieie pu( in (he f^round, without any <(fhcr cere- mony, riif.it liiiural (Vasts and niournint;; in bhu k clolhcs arc not cnstoniarv: anionic; (he few (iisht's they ser\e about, one is usuiitly a t'rnmciity ot'sdiikcd wheat, in rcl'eience to tl.c pussajie con- rcrniuii; a sproutiujjf vhcat-corn in John .\ii. 'ilr. In .'frcitt towns (he I'uncral obsccpiies are con- ducted, ainonji: people of condition, as ''leyare in other countries. At the new year is annually held a feast of (be dead, on which every body visits (he g^ravc of his relations, lays some vicluals upon it, and hears mass, in payment for whicb the priest geia >iie victuals. Protligates, such as have come to u miserable end, and all who have died without (he sacrament, were formerly thrown, without inhumation, into a but for that purpose, and, on (he Thursday before Whitsunday, were buried by (he clcriiv, who said masses for (heir souls, iiitcndcd hy (he inhabitants of the place. At present grc'tcr indulgence is shewn to these poor wre(ches. TIk; ancient orthodox Greek religion, to which the whole nation is attached, is universally ac- knowledged in doctrine and discipline. \\ e shall Jiere speak only of its c.vternals. The churches and the sacerdotal vestments are very magnificent. The people at large are very strict in the ob- servance of the outward forms of worship, at- I'oal '> btiii tendance on mass, keeping the fasts, f whip], * , up one-third part of the >ear, ) perlor;!!;!,,., domestic devotions morning juirl evpnin!, fessi(m, receivuig the sacrament, &c, churches is a meritorious act; hence it is "d' even (he smallest towns have such a nuinbc these structures, and some of Ihem hand „ ' As, by reason of the severity of (Ik; winics It' necessary to beat (he churclu-s, there ;ir(. f (juendy two churches in one cluircli-urd win(er and a summer church; at oilier tiuics (I consist of two stories, used (o the same purno-; The clergy are held in great honour, and arced tremely tolerant towards all other iirof'fjsions faith. The titles of metropolitan and arclibisli are not attached to the see, but are at prpij, merely personal distinctions conlerred by t| sovereign, which give the possessors no addiiio power, and scarcely any precedence. Evervo on meeting a priest, kisses his band, in return which he receives his blessing with the sign the cross: this custom is now, liowever, pre much confined to country places. Passion \ti is kept by every person in great apparent lemnity, with frequent ceremonies of devoti to which they are invited by slow and disi strokes of the church-bells: but the Easter-w is pass >d pretty nearly as in some other coimtrii invariousdiversions, drunkenness, and debaiichei At this festival it is the universal custom ail 01 the empire to present each other with an ei accoippanicd with u kiss, at the same time savi "Christ is risen!" to which the other repli " He is risen iudecd!" , SECTION V. The Chace, with a particular Description of the JMethods made Use of far taking the several Jnii HUNTING was every where the first occu- pation of man. Impelled by hunger, and incited to resistance by the attacks of savage ani- mals, his first business was to struggle with them for the support of his life. In most of the coun- tries in our part of the globe the chace has lost this character: it is now, neither from want nor fear, a business of necessity: and even (he em- ployments which in the earlier stages of the Eu- ropean nations was a toilsome and dangerous nmim pursuit, is become an object of diversion ai |)leasure. Kut in Russia are still nuincroustribi who, in regard to (heir physical wants, arei (irely or principally addicted to the eliaie, ; are obliged to contend for their cxistoiue « the savnu-e inhabitants of their deserts. Considd cd in this point of view, (he chare is aln a business of very great consequence tothcRd sian empire: but if we look to the qiiantitja the value of the products that arc ubtaiiiedl ...- • . id TOOKK'S VIEW or TITF RUSSIAN EMPinF. 529 .,, -urtijif, not only to the home ronsimiptioii, II I likewise to its commerce with foroii^n niiUons, I, ujfpg Olio poliliciil iinporlaiu'c iiiorp, wliich r nosM "" "* *^*' necessity of becoming somewhat I re 8i'Ciii''it»-''>' acfjUiiiiilod witli tiie matiiier in rhicli it is conducted, and the objects to whidi Ijifxtpnils. In Sibc'"- fiir trade. Next to these the governments of [f Tobolsk, Pcrme, Usa, Viatka, Archangel, Jnnetz, Vologeta, and some otaers, are most Ibiindant in beasts of the chace. But precisely where the cbucc is the most lu- \ii\\\e there it is a very diliiciilt, toilsome, and jerilouJ business; accordingly it is made a prin- Ipal employment only by the most uncultivated itions, as, the Ostiaks, Samoyedes, Vogules, runcusef.Tschuktsches, KamtschadaleSjYakutes, |e Eastern islanders, and the majority of the Itierian Tartars. With several of these nations le chacc is the sole means of profit by which Sev are enabled to procure food, clothes, and jllier necessaries; and these pay their taxes to mfriimeiit or their tribe, in furs. In deliance Kf all the hardships atlcnding the chacc of large ieasHof prey in the monstrous forests and wilder- iC'sesof the arctic region, this trade is not only lie principal but al<>o the favourite em|)loyuient [most of its inhabitants. It is by no means un- kual for single hunters of these savage tribes to Bgage in duels with bears, wolves, and other rocioiis animals, in whicl* they are so sure of leartilice or their aim, that they seldom or never III in the combat. Some nations, as the Ostia1(s [the Oby, never go to the chace but in small I* The manner in which the sables of Kiunlslialka are Ion is extremely simple. The KanUsliadules follow the kck uf this animal in siiow.!>!iues, till they have ileteeted I cuiort, which is generally a burrow in the earlh. As jouas the little creature is aware of his pu'^uer, lie cscupes companies, when they beat about the forests for four or six vt'cks toji-etlier iti qii(!st of prey, tnkiiig with them no rjflicr provisions than frozen fish ill little sledooi. Whcroas llie 'ruuguscH and others roam sina;ly about their wilds, which arc covered with moinitains, fraj'tneufs of rocks, and large rivers, anil where tliry often fall a sacrilice to their fondness for this sport. ^VIl(•n one of these himtcis Ii.is the uiisrortinu; to break an arm or !i leg, or to be wetlged b<:twee:> (wo pieces of rock, in this hiljilcss situation he must either pcri:Ji with hmi<;<>r or die of his wounds, or fall a pr.'v to some savage bea>it. The chace tor the sake of furs being the most important to foreign commerce, we shall make it the tirst object of oiu" notice. The most valuable of all the animals (hat are sought for their skin i» the sable; to which, by the general consent of all the nations of Europe and Asia, so great and de- terminate a price has been allixed, that its skin still serves as a standard to the tribute which is paid to the crown by the Siberian nations of hun- ters. This animal is found in Asiatic Russia, iVoin the Aleiitaii islands and from Kamtshatka to the districts of the Petschora and of the Kama : but the quality of its skin in this extensive region is extremely difterent. The finest sables comu from Yakutsk and Nertschinsk, and among these; arc likewise, though rarely, yellow, and extreme- ly seldom, whi*e sables. The Kamtshadale sables are the largest of all. Their skin is thick and long haired, but not very black, therefore most of them go to China, where they are colour- ed. At the time of the conquest of Kamtshatka, the sables were there in such extraordinary num- bers, that a sinf»;h» hunter could easily bring away sixty, eighty, a u more of these animals in & winter, and they were held in such little estima- tion by the Kamtshadales, that they deemed the more useful skin of a dog to be of twice the value. For ten rubles worth of iron ware there was no difliculty in obtaining the value of Hve or six hundred rubles in sables; and whoever had only followed this trade to Kamtshatka for the space of a year, usually came back with a profit of thirtv thousand rubles and upwards*. The into a hollow tree, wliieh the hunter snrrounds with a net; and then either cuts it entirely down or forces ihe sable by fire and smoke to abandon his retreat when he falls into this net and is killed. In other parts, wiicrc these animals arc rare, the cuutrivanccs to take tliem arc more arlilik iai. Of tlti* 'M .m i'l M!J ■ 1 i!--'i '■ |;'il ''"",11 1 i S:)0 TOOKK'fl VIF.W OF THK KUSSIAN KMIMRF. The fox makes also a coiisidcriible article of trailf, of \\Iiiili ill I'liKsia tlioiT art- four disliiKt spriics: llic common, amoii!; wliidi arc tin; red, llir sorrel, llic bhuk-slriiicil, tculici' llic cross-fox,) ami (lie ciilirdv uliilc, which o!;. (lie rarest and cUau's); the kariigaiu', of a j^rcy colour, tlic »r a bluc- ish colour, chiefly iiihal)it (ho islands on (lie coasts* of tin- Frozen Ot can, Kamtshalka, and (he Rus- h'nu\ Archipelago. The black foxes, which ul present Iclch most nioie.'v in commerce^ arc only found in ciislcrn Siberia*. Ivistern Siberia, and particul.irly Kamfshatka, abound UK st ;ii l)eau(il'ul fo\(s: (hev were lierc in sucli jireat niMuI)irs aixuit (he niiddh; of (he cif^hteenth cen(urv, (hat the linest hrc-red fox skins wove never s-old hii'her on (he spot than at one hundred and thiil} to one hundred and eighty Ilii< kliii! is (lio s.il)lf ir.i|) i I' tlii' Vo^iilfs, Mliicli is h.sk! in fccvi'i.il parls of Sibcii:!. A pl.iCi; is soiinlit out wlieii- two ><)iing troL's siiiiul iio( far ii.-.iiiul.'r, uiiicli arc iinnieiliatrly '»tii;i|ii'(l of tlii'ir hraiu'lu's a'umt tin- liottoni. At oiio of thi'si- trri's a post is shirk in du- jjroiind, anil on it i« placed a biMni iiori/.Diiia'ly, fasioiu'ii in surli iiKinncr (o liotli treos thai on.' cnil of it lios bi-tvc-Mi (lie p isi ami (hi.- (ri-c. Over this beam aiioilvr i-i l.iiil, as ii trdp.f.ili, at llu' t nil wlnroof x tliin siipixiil is pill, ivliiili, wlion I'n" tr.i| -f ill is up, »tsii(ls over tin' ii )(i'luil vn.\ of tlu- post ; at tli.! cxtr.'niilv of tlis sujiixn't is a nuit-'Uiiii;, .mil anollu'r at t'lo lower tr.insvorsc brain lii-.l vny bliort. l>olli ace broii^lit toajflliiT, aiul a bit of stick put (lii>>iii^li liiiiii. h.tviiig at its lon^'i-r ox. Ircmily a piece of iK'sli nf \wlil foul alt.iilii'il. whieli by ils jireponilcranci" keeps tlie stiik down and thus holds (he (wo strings (Dfrether. 'i h.- sable creeps caiitiinisly alona^ the lower b.-,vu till he can naeli (he b:iil ami pull it to liitn : n.i the siiik to w liu h |!k' b.iil is (i.il ami by which the sfriiii-'s were li.ld liP:;e!!i('r : (h • slay idsisi;; hold, and coiiseipi- nMy ■.'„: iiprcr b i'ln tails upon the shonhlers of the aninml .ind holds him i'as(.- With tlie same kind of (rap martens and oth.-r liillo hetif^ a.e Ivilbd. *» The oidinar> me.'hod o( catching ihcse aninrils is by traps fet f.»r ihein ; bnt tli^' inh.iliitants of Kai'.tshaika most coiniiHMily ni;;ke use of a'.i in;:cnijns invention for th.il [nir. pose, 'i'hi'y la) >-'>\cial siiiires of whalebone w.'tich ar;! fastened like hnji •; to a boirJ, wiilun a circle in tlie snow; pi icliiij; in the n.ii'.ule of this circh- a luew or sea-gull as ii b.iit. As soo'i as (he fox J' inp- into (he ciicl; to seize Ilis |;rev, 'he h.int.'r, who link:, in a pit, dr.iws (hi- h loji (o. gfdier by nie.ins of a stiiiiif, \* hich c.iches the fox eiih.T by the body or llij fool, and hnlds him (ill t'l.' iuinter knock:) him (I )wii widi a s(i;!i. In S beria it is m' y usual to make the fax shoot himself dead, by fastenin'T a 4;en(ly drawn bow nith its arrow upon it to a post li\ed in tin; ground: across the path or trick a line is lei 1, in saeh .1 manner ronncded with the bow, that it is i'lniediately dii-ehaiL'e.d as t!ie fox touches the siring in rumi.Ui;. The .iiraw ^cuciallv pierces kopecks. The black foxes arc in general m very plenty; their value in commerce is s!?* that sonieiintes even a sinjrlo skin cannot ijo'l I for less than one hundred or five himdrcil ai j' times even for a tliousaiul rubles. TiiiN,.';,^; fi are iiadirally the choicest object of (1^ ^i/* auKM'j;* all the eastern Siberian nations, us one L 1 not unfretpumlly defrays the tribute of a wh, 1 1 village. Tiie care, therelorc, wiili ulu,;|, ,i,^,J keep the young ftjxes they take is so jrreat (hlf (he Os(iak women nourish them at (licir 1)1,.^,. | 111 summer, when they iind >oiiiition which Stelicr f;ives of this ciirinus anil sly animal is so enter!. lining, that it inav be r.Mil viiili |i|,,,J sure fven more (ban once. " Diiriii!; my inifurliiimj abode," says Im-, " on nehrin^'s Island, I hail OiipniinniiJ more than eniiiii;li for sliidunj: 'lie naiiire of ilii> aiimaU far e\celliii'4 the common fox in impudence, einiui'i^', aiil rotrnery. | he narrative of (he innumerahle (rit',(s (U played lis mi^ht easily vie with Alberdis .liiiiii^', lii.i.jtyj the apes on (he islmd of Saxenbiiri;. They ferml i,,,ii|j s.lvcs into our iiahitations by ni;;lit as well as ilav, Meutl nil that they could carry oil; even ihinus tli,|t Hi'riMifiJ use ti) (hem, as, knives, sticks, our cloa'.hs, \i. |'!,J we ■ ^o inconceivably iuneuious as to roll iliiwn '•iir ra kMl proM-ions several poods in wei;;lit, and then ste.il ;'if nicj out of ihein so ahly, that al lirst we could nut hi'm^r iiiir| M'lvi'^ to ascribe the lliefl to thcin. .\s v. i- wire s'iji>|iinl an iiiiinial of his skin, it often liappctied that w: cuiililnol avoid stalibinn («i or lliree foves, '0111 their r.iriri", iij tc'aiin(;tlie iK^hont of our hands. If we huri;'il it ivcmiI curi'tilly, iiml added stoiirs to the vveij^ht of cinih tlih! \ui upon it, they not onlj found it out, bii( shoved :uvaj iJ siones, as men would hiveilone, with theii sIhuiIiIit;, ,i:if lyin; under the.n helped one another with all Ih.-ii' i;;ipart of their time to the chaee; or I uirlit i" great numbers, with traps and gins set Wfore tlieir burrows.— The marten is not only fuiiid >» Siberia but in European Russia, even ibuut the Ladoga Lake and in Livonia; but I ...ce in the government of Tobolsk are the finest « nell as the most plentiful. The blackest squir- Irelicoiue from Yakutsk and Nertschinsk; but I (hey afc likewise the smallest. The tcleutan are Ifimous for their size, and have also the beautiful lijlver-colour that renders them so valuable. The |iltipc(i squirrel is likewise plentiful in Siberia. lAii iF*> duii'St othcm stood upon guard and watched us. Ilflhoria^ any uno coming at a, dutunce, the whole troop IjjBbiiicd at once and began digging all together in the sand, lull ,|,,.y iiad so fairly put a beaver or a sea-bciir under the InrfiK tba'. not a trace of it was to be seen. In the night lliie "'''''* ^'^ slept in the field, they came and pulled oflT Itiir iii"ht caps and stulo our gloves from undor our headii, Ifilh the bcaTcr coTcrings and the nkins that we lay upon. Ilg consrqucnce of this we always slept with clubs in our lltgjs that if they should wako us wc might drive them ■itay or knock them down. I I' When wc made a halt to rest by the way, thoy gathered Loond us and playetl a thousand tricks in our view, and Kkii vc »' s''"> ^''^y approashcd us so near that they Ifgiwrdthe thongi of our shoes. If wo laid down, as if Ktending to sleep, they ramo and smelWd at our noses to Et whether we were dead or alive ; if we held our breath, Kej gave such a tug to the Rose as if they would bite it uflf. Ei onr first arrival they bit off the noses, the lingers, and Kesof our dead, while wa were preparing th« grave, and Eonged in such manner about the infirm and tho sick, that ■ vu with difficulty we could keep them off. Every Koroing we saw these audacious animals patrolling about BnoDg tlie sea.lioas and sea-bears lying «n tho strand, laelling at such as were asleep, to discover whether soroo Bf ihem might not be dead ; if that happened to be the case. Be/ procmicd to dissect him immediately, and presently Kter all were at work in dragging tlie parts away : because B« tta.lions of a night in their sleep frequently overlay Heir yuung, they examine, as if conscious of this circum. Ihnce, every morning the whole herd of them ono by one, Kd immediately drag away the dead cubs from their dams. ■leing now that they would not sufl'er us to be at rest at li;ht nor day, we were in fact so exasperated at them that Helullid them young and old and plagued them by every ■am we could devise. When wc awoke in the morning, ■ere always lay two or three at our feet that ha^* been ■locked on the head in the night ; and I can safely affirm, Hitduring my stay upon the island above two hundred of Bete animals were slain by myself alone. The third day HUermy arrival I knocked down, within the space of three Wfm, upwards of seventy ef tbea with a clubj and made I Vol. II. No. CUL. This delicate liitle creature climbs the trees and nimbly springs from bough to bough, but hit winter holf^s and the m.aga/int's of provisions al- wiivs found with them, in which various kinds of seeds arc colleclud, he makes in the earth, though on account of the moisture of the ground aot remarkably deep. Easy as it would be to catcli thu.se animals, and numerous as the fanciers which their beautiful striped fur would ensure, yet none apply to the capture of them, To the other objects of the chace for furs must be added the bear, the wolf, the lynx, the glut- ton, the ferret, the polecat, &c. which, generally speaking, are spread over the whole of North Russia, and the prodigious quantities obtained of their skins are partly consumed at home and a covering to my hut of thi-ir skins. They arc so ravenous, tliut with ono hand wc could hold to them a piece of llcsihy and Qrasp a stick or an axe in the other to knock them oa the head. *' When these busy animals could not get hold on what they wanted, for example, the cloaths we occasionally put ofl', they voidi'd their excrements upon it, and then «carcel^ ono of the rest passed by without doing the same. From all circumstances it was clear to us that they could never before have seen a human being, and that the dread of man is not innate in brutes, but must be groundrd on long experience. " In October and November they, like tho foxes, wcr* tho most sleek and full of hair. In .January and February the growth of it is too thick; in April and May they begin to sited their coat; in .Iiino they drop their cubs, nine or ten at a brood, in Holes and clefts of the rocks. They ara so fond of their young, that to scare us away from them thcf barked and yelled like dugs, and thereby betrayed their covert. No sooner dc» they perceive that their retreat is discovered, than, unless tliey be disturbed, thoy drag awa^ the young in their mouths, and try to conceal them in a mora secret place. On killini^ the young, the dam follows th» slayer with grievous howlings, day and night for a hundred and more vcrsts, and never ceases till she has played hoc enemy some trick, or is killed by him herself. " They stink much more horridly than even the red fox. In rutting.time they run together day and night, biting eack other from jealousy, like dogs. When they couple they make just such a screaming as cats do. In storms and heavjr falls of snow they bury themselves in the snow, and lie still as long as it lasts. They swim across rivers with great agility. Bcsiidcs what the sea casts up or is destroyed bf beasts, thoy seize the sca.fowl by night on tlic dill's whera they have settled to roost ; hut they themselves are fi'c» qucntly victims to the birds of prey — These animals, whicb are now in such inexpressible numbers od the island, proba* bly were conveyed thither, since there is no other land> animal upon it, from the continent on the drift ice ; and, afterwards nourished by the great quantity of animal sub- stances thrown a-shorc by the sua, multiplied to such aa extraordioi^'y dui;ree. r 111 h I IK! I :;l , r h ' ]' i ;■ '^ 1 i 1 ■ ' ' •!■■ •' .[::;. :j:.^ b\ i ^fil :'ri;l n Sit tookf;s rir,w of tftf nu«srAN fmpirk. partly flcnt abroad. The bear is in 111.1:1/ rcspccU «(• ii>.(i tuliicK'ij TOOKF'S VTFW OP TITf ntT« surface of the snow to a consistence which fVows ihe hunter easily to follow hi? trade in Urge wooden snow-shoes, whereas the beasts v.ith their claws, break throiigh this crust, and are hindered in running. They are foIl.»wed by the track, driven into vallies, where the snow is drifted frequently to the depth of several ells, and there are either shot, or kept at bay by the dogs till the pursuer can rcue up and kill them with his lance. The roe-buck particularly is so hi ble to wound hiin- •cli.' in the feet by flight, that he is very soon in- capable of running. The elks often stand on V eir defence agi^inst the dogs, killing several .-f them with their hoofs, which are the usi.al weapons of this animal. In many parts likewise ije roe-buck and the elk are caught in strong gins and dispatched by spring-guns, which, where the country is woody, are fastened lo the trees. The skin of the roe-buck sells cheap, and be- cause they are very light and easily turn off the wet, are frequently used by ths peasants as cover- ings to their huts, and someti iies made into win- ter garments: about Krasnoyarsk they are in ^uch plenty, that flesh and all they scarcely fetch fifteen kopeeks a-piece. Generally, therefore, it is only their skin that is brought to market, which may be had for about ten kopeeki. The rein-deer is cxtremeljr uumeroui through the whole of northern and eastern Siberia- 1 frequent about the Ural and in the Euron I north. In woody districts, where springj f I arras, and spring-guns are ap,)licablc, \\LTa the nmst usual means resorted to for takiiip I killing the rein-deer; but in the open downs J' jacenl tw the sea, where these coutrivaucca would fail, the Samoyedcs, the Ostiaks, the Tiiiil'us* and others have i» vented different arts, of which as an example, we shall take those of ill Samnyedes. The rein-deer are wont to goi» herds from ten to a hundred, and soinstimM even two hundred are seen together. Wheutha Samoyede* go out in parties, and perceive one ol these herds, they station their tame rein-oeeroi an elevated plain to the windward, then ouckun from this place to the savage herd as near as (he> can venture to come, without betraying selves by the weather, long sticks, at small disJ tanccs asunder, in the snow to which goosc-winw are tied, to be fluttered freely by the windsJ Thl? done, they plant the like pinions on tb^ other side, under the wind; and, the rein-dei. being busy with their pasture beneath the snow] ^nd being chiefly guided by their scent, the! generally observe nothing of all these prcpari, tions. When every thing is ready the hunterj separate; some hide themselves behind tbei] snowy entrenchments, while others lie with bow and other weaponb in the open air to leewari and others again go to a distance and drive bj| circuitous route the game between the tcrrifil pinions. Scared by these, the wild reinde^ run directly to the tame ones which are standini with the sledges; but here they are alarmed i the concealed hunters, who drive them to thel companions that are provided with arms, vb immediately commit great slaughter among tliei If it 80 happens, that a savage herd arc fcediii{ in the proximity of a mountain, then the hunte hang up all their clothes ou stakes about thefooj of the mountain, making also with the sai frightful pinions a bread passage towards it, il which they drive the game together from a d^ tance. As soon ta the^ are come into this ganj way, the women go with the sledges right aero the further end of it, shutting the rein-deer I who immediately run round the mountain, aod( every round are saluted by the shot from i hunters. At OB luch occaiiou a number of people i rcquiiill TOOKE'S VIEW OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. 535 I ' ijg^ (he Samoyedes have recourse to other ^"itioiisto deceive the caution of these animals, 'h Marksman goes, for example, clad entirely • eiiideer skins, stooping in the middle of five ^'ij rein-deer trained to this purpose, which he 'dsbya rope fastened to his girdle, and thus is "bleii «> approach very near to tlic wild herd, Kliout being betrayed. In autumn, when the n-detr are in heat, the hunters choose out a iVorousbuck from their droves, to whose antlers lev tie nooses, and then turn him loose among •^ ,yild herd. The wild stag, on spying a n^e rival capering among his females, rushes j'to ti-'lit him. During the combat he so eii- L„|j,''his antlers in the loops, that when he r(i(U(i the hunter and strives to escape, the tame Lk strikes his head to the ground, and there gu his antagonist till the marksman can kill him. TlieShamois and the Bezoun Goat are an ob- Mof chace to the Caucasean nations, in whose Lntains they abound. The Ewcck is likewise Inative of these as well as the mountains of Elietia. Antelopes traverse in droves the steppes jiutthe Don, in the districts of the Volga, (he fnl, the Irtysh, and in the territory of Nerts- liiuk, another species of wild-goat, the Zob- d, or craw-go c, livef in Uaouria and in (he Llines of Mangolia 'i'hc first is found in gicat jleiity, yet never transgresses the bounds to the ^li ufllic 55th degree of latitude. The horns ftliis animal are sometimes eleven inches long ; I lace is imperfect, as the eye-ball is obscured laspiingy excrescence on the brow. Perhaps iturc intended by this to temper the ghive of spppes which give birth to the antelopes, return she has endowed him with acuter Ifaclory orga-w, by which he has the faculty of Hitiiigbotli men and wild beasts, when the wind 1 fiivourable, at the distance of several versts. lis surprising that this animal, which seems as (were framed for running, ( since it is apparently rtliat purpose that he is provided with a wind- M)f nearly two inches in diameter, large linigs, I wide nostrils,) should be more easily put out jlireath, when hunted or vexed, than any other m'l. The chace, on their running nags, of antelopes is a favourite diversion of the ngales and the Dauriau Tonguses of (he ippci. For this purpose they unite in com- nitiof fifty, of a hundred, or of two hundred mm all well mou;:ted and provided with led IVoL. il. No. GIX. horses, all likewise armed vrith bows and hunting spears, and every one having with him a trained dog. They choose on 5 of their com- piiny i'or their leader, who directs the chace, and has the command while it lasts. When the hunt is to proceed, early in the morning three or four men, who have a keen eye-sight, arc sent for- wards, that from certain elevations are to look round for game; and where they perceive them in troops to stand still till the whole party is come up to them, whom they point out, by signs agreed on, on which side the beasts are feeding, and what course they ought to take. In pur- suance of these signals the company disperse, and gradually form a spacious arch, in which each man is not above sixty or eighty fathoms distant from the other, and by which the herd is cautiously surrounded. As soon as those latter are aware of the hunters, and are betaking them- selves to flight, they rush in on all side*, at full gallop, upon them; who, panic struck at the shouts of the sportsmen and the whizzing of their javelins, start different ways, but are slain in groat numbers from the dexterity acquired by all the nations of the Daourian steppes, who make it one of their constant exercises to shoot and throw their weapons at n i wrk. The chace is still more productive when t ao scene of it hap- pens to lio near a river or a iiiountainous forest, for the goats « f the steppes liave this singular property, that they never t.ike to the water, thotigh long and furiously harassed, but rather strive to escape by sudden and vast V^ps through the tioops of their pursuers. Taey are almost equally shy of forests. No sooner are they hunted into a wood than they are so bewildered among the trees as not to be able to flee a hun- dred puces, but run their heads against every tree, and soon fall breathless. The wild sheep, called by the Mongolcs argali, and the rock-ram, kaniennui-baran, are met with in the Sayane, the Nertschinskian and Altayan mountai. ->, also in Daouria, on Caucasus and in Kamtshatka. The argali is larger and more powerful than the dam stui;;, : but the ram is larger still, whose exuberant horns alone weigh full forty pounds. The winter coat of ihis animal is long and shaggy, uiucli mixed with wool; whereas the summer hair is short and sleek. They live on solitary, dry, and v.i'odjr mountains aud rocks, where they can feed on (he G Y various '' 1;» ift'i I -■)' 556 TOOKE'S VIEW OF THE RUSSFAN EMPIRE. -various oitter and acrid mountain herbs. The stag is not so shy as the argali, ^vith wliich it is almost impossible to come up. They are of un- common speed in running, and when pursued make tortuous circuits, and often double upon the hunters. Though this animal be so wild when full grown, nothing is so easy to tame as the Iambs that are taken, and to habituate them to milk and fodder. The kamennoi-baran keeps entirely n<- high inaccessible rocks and never ap- proaches inhabited districts. — The wild boar is found in the steppes of the Samara and the Volga, aill in the confines of the river Vral, in Daouri even about the Irtysh. Between the Vi i*" the Yembii they are extremely numerous ui"" they are hunted in winter by «he Kozafcs '*' dogs, and killed sometimes with carbine? ^ sometimes with hnces. These animals, who f solely on the roots of sea-weed and sedtfe m\ to such an extraordinary size, that the\ are f" quently found weighing upwards of six hundn pounds; their bacon is near four inches thick fat, though their flesh in general is dry and fir and well flavoured. SECTION VII. ' . Desaiption of the Fishery. M AS the chace has always been the exclusive occupation of particular nations of the Rus- sian empire, so there are also tribes who maintain themselves by the fishery, and with whom even the establishment of this trade forms a part of their civil constitution. It is naturally to be im- plied that this can only be the case with those nations and swarms whose habitations border on the sea, or comprise large rivers abounding in fish, and whose civilization is as yet by much too littie advanced for selecting more productive and ingenious sources of livelihood. Some of these fisher-nations follow this trade solely for their own support; while others, as the Kozaks of the Don and the Ural, and the tribes on the shores of the Volga, carry on an important and lu- crative traffic with the products of their fishery. With most of the hordes and swarms of Siberia the chace and the fishery are equally important as the means of profit; the former is followed chiefly in summer, and the latter in the winter months. The same severity of frost which covers the coasts and the rivers with ice, and thris makes the fisherman idle, smooths the way to the huntsman through forests and over morasses, which in a warmer season would be utterly im- passable. All the trades carried on by the Russians on the northern ocean are of thcj.'^reater consequence, us the benefits of them extends over the whole empire, and beuaiisc the consumption of the products thence cbtaiucd is general. The arctic waters, it is well known, breed the largest animals of the cetaxeous genus, whales of sever! species, dolphins, &e. for the capture of whij ships are sent by various n^ons. Here, inti extremitier. of the north, are! ike wise engeixlert the numberless shoals of stock-fish, herrini;^, other small kinds, supplying food to whole com tries, and by the capture whereof more than ( nation has been enriched. The advantages arisiJ from the fishery in these seas arc indeed maj and great, but the ditticulties and perils attondai on it arc not less either in number or magnituii as the people here have not only to ronteiid J the strength and cunning of the animals tbeyi in quest of, but also with the terrors of an clement sky, with raging storms and (clmk and with enormous masses of ice that ob their navigation, and threaten them every muin(| with dcstructi(m. As the huge soa-animal» seldom met with in the White Si-a, ami as, reason of the inhospitable climate of these dreJ shores the coast of the Northern Ocean arealmJ entirely destitute of human beiiijis, the intiaj tnntt* of the governments of Archiiiigel andOlq elz principally prosecute their fishery on Sp bergeii and Noviiya Zeiiilia; these islands, tlit fore, as the chief scene of the northern (isliej deserve to he briefly characterised. liotli islands are completely UHinhabitcd, by niisfortiui'o some poor mariners have benhhi wrecked on their coasts, it is prt>bable, tlialj the severity of the climate, against whidi i TOOKE'S VIEW OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. 5? 7 L J not the means of defei.re, th/jy have presently I to pcrislied. Some English and Dutch sea- who in the first period of navig:ation in the In rthcrn Ocean, vrintered on these islands, for h*inost part 'o** their lives, or endured inex- I essible misery. Yet the abode there is only Ifneerous to those navigators who have been I Id to a HI"'"*' genial climate, and have not been I blebv proper clothes, nourishment, and motion, lloresistthe attacks of the scurv}', which are so I jly brought on by an indolent and confined life during the winter. The Russian sailors from |! l,jnea-lice.. by which the morse in summer is perpel'ially tormented, and from which they have no other :rieans of escaping than by fleeing into an element which deprives these in- sects of life. All fhese causes together collect them frequently on the beach of fields of ice in prodigious number. obii^eii Dcmploy, allow them to do no better. When the fat is ttcil over (he fire by these people at home, they usuully III Hilh it the fat of the sca-dot; or (lie b.iluga, and sell it bJir the name of vervaniioye-salo. — Of tiiis oil U auuualiy (lipped from the port of Archangel from two to (en (lioii- Lltons, the 'on ut seven pood; the pood at •Arrli.ingel bis a ruble and a half and upwards. This oil is ciiiploM'd Mp.boiling, in the prrparalioii of leather, and for (he bn^imiptiun of lamps; it is likewise employed in various llifr purposes by difl'ercnt tradesniet and ntcchanics. [Tlicmoi'se.skins are hung upon poles, as (hey are taken itofilic sea, iu the open air till they arc bccu mo still', Vol. II. No. CIX. the white-fish, known to the Greenlandcrs under (his name, but to the Russians by that of beluga, and which professor Pallas, byway of distinction calls the sea bulga. He belongs to the race of the dolphin, is not above three fathoms long, and is every where found in the Frozen Ocean. These animals keep together in shoals, and arc driven upon shallow , daces in the White Sea and the gnlf of the Oby by the Samoyedes, who as- sociate, into numerous companies for that pur- pose, and harpooned. Their flesh is black, but over the whole body is drawn a white rind, out of which a very pure fat may be prepared. According to Guldensteedt's opinion (his species of fish might be beneficially used for obtaining tiain-oil. That the morsc-caichers employ it in preparing the train-oil of that animal has already been remarked. It is easy to conceive, (hat a people who make the fishery their principal occupation u)u?t have combined a great variety of means, some of them ingenious, for pursuing; this business at the least cxpence of time and tr')uble. IJesides the purse- nets, and (he fisli-weeh, and wears (hat are every where in use, the Ostiaks and Samoyedes eustom- arilv go to fish in shallow places in the night-time, by the lightof burning birch bark, which theys'ick on poles. In the secondary rivers most norths ard (he Samoyedes as soon as (he ice is strong make openings in it, over which they build huts, and sink in the water little lure-fish, cut out of wood, by lines made heavy with stones, by means of which they ea.iily pierce with forked-spears the fish who are led to them .by greediness or cu- wheii thoy arc prepared for farther use. Of them are luade traces for carriages, horse-haruesscs, &c. and frora the cullins;-* excellent size for the paper-manufactories. A niorse-skin costs usually three, four, or more rubles.— The niorse-teeth are transported partly to St. Petersburg and Mosco, and partly likewise to Archangel; wliere, and iu the districts around it, they are wrought up into all the works for which ivory cm be used. Here are made, of them all sorts of elegant little boxes and caskets of open work in a variety of (a'(es, fan. stick*, kiiifi'. handles, card-counters, chess-men, kc. wliicli aceordiiij; to the neal- ness of woikmanship and the whiteniss of (he teet!- bear a ilillereiif price. The thicknoss of tlip with the choicest, most useful. . and best-tasted kinds of fish. To this chiss primarily belongs in more than one respect the whale; though found alike in the Frozen t)eean. About the coasts of Kamtshalka this huge sea-animal is so coranmn, that on the rtiflux of the waters they are often seen sleeping on the shore, or pursuing the fish (piite into the harbours. Neither is it here a thing unfreciuent lor the whali's to be thrown dead on dry land, vs hieli the Kamlshadales regard as a liuky acci- dent, as the tiipture of them is attended with great danger and numerous difiii-ulties. From the southernmost cape of Kamtshatka the inha- bitants go out to sea in baiders or little canoes, on the search for sleeping whales, which they wound ♦ The uses made on the shores of the Easfern Occait of tlio proilucis of this capture are riirioiis and inanifuld The f.osh of the whale', thoii-h so hard and coarse, will not keep long: it is therefore eilluT iiumediattly consumed, or hiMii; up in the air to dry. Thi' .■•Kin is fcparalcd from the lard, Sfrapeil, smoaked, and, to make it suiiple, beaten; it is liToiight into cords and shoe soles, « hich are so strong that they never wear out or become unserviceable. 'I'll- fat is laid in |)lts tilled up with hot stones, purilicd front the blubber, and then yields a wdl-taiitcU lard, 'i'bu blubber; with poisoned darts, and leave it then to tli • good fortune whether the animal be thus kin'S and cast upon their shores. In the norll districts of this peninsula the whale is take'"" large nets made of thick hardened th()ngs"!3 mor.se-hides, and sunk in the water at the mou^ of the gulph with heavy stones. ^Vhe„ n, animal is enttinglcd in it, the struggles he niab to get free generally cost him his life; andtlJ he is towed ashore by the captors and slain amidj a variety of religious and fantastical ccremoni« But of all the tribes of these parts none are so addicted to the whale-fishery as the Tsclmkistlii and the methods they use come nearest to tliosen the Europeans. They row to sea in very laro baiders the crew consisting of eight or ten people when they meet a whale one of these vessels bear up to him, whence the harpooner throws aspca into his body, leavi:jf the iron or wooden hooli sticking in him while the shaft of the snear drawn home. To the hooks a cord is fastened several hmulred fathonis in lenglli, and litscdjli up in the bottom of the canoe. This mrd i held fast by the harpooner, letting it out ac coiuing to the violent motions of the enrage animal: if he plunges he has rope enough; jfli rise tl e holders draw it in, who can alwiu which way the whale takes by means of a bin _. attached to the cord. When the whale rises fo the first time, the second canoe pursues liimj like manner; and this is repeated by several ves sels, till they have altogether suflieientlv fisei and fatigued him. Then they suddenly set up violent shouting, at which the raging aniina! so confused that he makes fur the land, an throws himself with amazing force uiion lli shore, where it is afcerward:* veiy easy (o Li him. This method is in genera' practiceil on mo of the islands of the Russian Archipelego. Tb Isehiiktschi rely so muih upon their coiirap;caii dexterity in this business, that they onlv tikcili trouble to carry away the fat cf the vt hale the have taken*. which is good for ipelting a3 well as for lamp-oil, is poiire info the cleansed intestines, which are used instcail nf bai rels or casks', and in which they generally keep \up\i Willi the whalebone the Kauitskadales sew tlieir biiilc tOL^'lher, or thry make fishing.nets, fox-tr;ips ami nale casks (tf it. Of the bones of the lower jaw thiyniali niider-lays tu their sledges, knife>handles, and riii^i (o their dog-harness. The sinews serve tliein for all thopm poses of pack-thread, and the vertebrae of the back-bontu used as mortars for pounding. TOOKF/S VIEW OF TITF, RUSSIAN FMPIIIK. 541 I if|,e£aitern Ocean contains, besides tlie whale, I jjnsiderablenumberof other large and lemark- l*,| , pa, iiifi animals, of which, however we shall fliv notice such as by the capture of thcra ein- I lov the industry of the natives, and are use- ILl lo tlie purposes of life. Among these we y particularly reckon the sea-bear, the sea- lion tbc sea-cow, and the sea-otter, all natives loflliat ocean, and of which, as the natural Ihistoryof ^^^^ '* ^"* ViU\c known, we shall at lliiesarne time give a short description: I The sea-bears appear in troops in the Eastern I Ocean, principaily between the Kurilly and the lAtfiitaii islands. The largest of these animals lire ninety English inchfs in length, and weigh |ei4itfeii or twenty pood. They resemble no llaDil-aiiimal more than the bears excepting only llliefeel, «i"d the hinder part of the body, which llcrminales in a grotesqnc ligure. \Vhat is more Isino-ular in the structure of these animals is their IjiiJJy.feft, having not only joints and toes, by Iwhifli tlu-y arc enabled to go on shore, to set on Itlieir breech like the dog, and to use their paws Ijii various ways, but likewise by n»eans of the web Ibelween their toes, to swim with equal ease. — iTtic manners of these animals are so peculiar and lextraordinary that the account of them would be wceaicd a fiction, were it not accredited by the iHimonY of a sagacious and learned observer. ■Theaircction of the mother for her young is ex- Iteedinftiy great ; and they in return endeavour to IdiTcrt bcr bv various kinds of frolicksome play. foil seeing these gambols, it seems as if they were |jerci»ing (eats of wrestling, one striving to give llie other a fall; and if the father conies up Vowiing, he drives the wrestlers asunder, coaxes llie conqueror, and even tries himself to throw lini on the ground: the greater the resistaiue llitwii by the latter, the more he gains the love If llio parents, to whom on the other hand, their |k:iiilul or timid children, appear to give but title joy. Though polygamy prevails among ■lie sea-bears, and some of them have m many us Iftv wives, )et every one watches over his Iffspring with unconimon jealousy, and is ex- ]c6si\ei\ furious ifa stranger come too near them. Even when they lie b> (hoiii.;i:»ds on the beach, lev are alwa\s divided faiuilv-wise into com- lanies, and in like manner they swim together in Be ocean. The aged, who no longer have any lives, Uve solitary, and arc ci uU the most grim; these frequently pass a whole month on the shore in sleep, without taking any food: but whatever approaches them, whether man or beast, they fall upon with the most outrageous fury. The sea-bears at times wage bloody wars together, the usual ground of hostility being either the females or a good couching place. When two are con- tending against one, others come up to assist the weaker party; and during the combat, the swimming spectators raise their heads above the water, and calmly look on for a length of time, till tliey also find a motive for mingling in the fight. Sometimes these conflicting armies cover a tract on the shore of two or three versts, and in all the air resounds with their dreadful yells and growlings. It often happens that the combatants make an armistice for an hour to recreate their forces, during which they lie beside one another without any danger: then both parties suddenly rise up, each takes its place, and the battle begins afresh willi redoubled fury. This goes so far, that they pursue one another into the sea, when those of the victorious party drag their enemies back to land, and put them to the tort -re o^' their bites so long, till at length they lie i'riint and exhausted, and finally perish by the talons and beaks of the ravenous birds of prey that arc hovering round. — The authority with which the husbands rule over their wives and children is frequently displayed in a very tyrannical manner. When the wives, on being attacked by the hunters, abandon their cubs from aflrighf, and these are carried off, the husbands immediately cease from pursuing the common foe, and turn upon the mother, as if to demand an account of what is become of their olfsprhig. Then seizing them with their teeth, dash them with violence against the rocks; the wives stunned with the blows, creep and crouch at the feet of tlieir despots, and caressing them, shed abun- dance of tears. While the husband continues to feel his vexation, he goes growling to and fro, and rolling his eye-balls just as the land bears are wont to do; but when his rage is abated, he then b»>gins also bitterly to weep for the loss of his voting. From June till the middle of August the sea- bears come ashore, in order, like the land-bears in, winter, by three months of sleep and fasting to disburden themselves of their superfluous fat. This is tlie hunting season for them to The full, grown. it»^ < /; : , « t: ■ m U\ mm' ; I IjS I ■ 1 1 tt I 542 TOOKE'S VIFAV OF THE TIUSSIAN EMPIRF. and aged are not easily frightened, but go boldly up to the men to tight them ; yet whole droves of them will plunge all at once into the sea from fear, as if seized by a panic, on any sudden oc- casion of alarm. On land they run with great swiftness, a man, therefore, who is pursued by them has no means of escape hut by climbing up a steep mountain, where they cannot follow him so fast. The capture of these animals about Kamtshatka is prosecuted mostly at sea with Javelins furnished with hooks, which quit their shafts. The wounded beast strikes with the speed of an arrow through the water, drawing after him the canoe; and rages till he has bled to death. The skins of the sea-bears arc of no great value; as their hair is black, thick, and rugged, and the hide visting with the utmost exertion of L,jtren;^tb, the canoe follows him, and the cap- lors endeavour to harrass him with repeated still he can no longer hold out. As soon j(he sea-cows in the vicinity perceive the danger 'their associate, they run up to his assistance. jome strive to overttirn the canoe with their Inks, others throw themselves athwart the rope, b}' that means to break it asunder, or they iitaboiit with their tails in hopes to draw out llie hooks from the skin of the wounded beast, in fhich too they sometimes succeed. The thick and strong hide of these animals is nplovfd by the Americans for shoe-soles and s; the Tschuktsches stretch them out by sticks make use of them as canoes. The flesh of • sea-cow is indeed more coarse and fibrous than tl, but when boiled it is very like it in taste, t this advantage, that cveu in the hottest thcritdoes not easily spoil; the flesh of the ig calves is, however, far more tender. k tat under the skin, which surrounds the Ihole body to a hand breadth, is white and nid, smells and tastes very agreeable, and yields, boiled, a butter resembling in taste the oil f almonds. As the multitude of these animals «tit Kamtshatka is excessively great in general, 1 one of them weighing about two hundred Kids, or eight thousand pounds, this nourish- might be alone sufiicieut to supply all the jiabitauts the whole year through with whole- neand well-tasted meat. sea-otter wrongly called the Kamtshadalc JiTer, did'crs from the river-otter only in this^ (Vol II. No. ex. that he lives hi tlse sea, thit he is about half as big again, and approaches nearer to the beaver in flneness of hair. There is no doubt of its be>- ing an American marine-animal, and only « stranger on the coasts of Asia, where it dwells in what is called the Beaver-sea, from the 50fh to the .56th degree of north latitude. It is in len^^th usually five and it.« circumference in the thickest part of the body is tlircc feet; the largest of tiiese animals weigh from about seventy to eighty pounds. Their fur, in length, beauty, black- ness, and glossiness of the hair, far excels the fur of the river-beaver. One such fur will sell at Kamtshatka for twenty, at Yakutsk for thirty, at Irkutsk forty to fifty, but on the Chinese bor- ders in barter for eighty or a hundred rubles. The flesh of this aninuil is tolerably palatable, and even the flesh of the female is, contrarv to the stated laws of uatiiie, the best shortly before and after the breeding season. The food of the sea- otter is crabs, conchylidc, little fishes, some sea weeds, and also flesh. There is no manner of doubt that this useful animal, if some people of spirit would go to the expence, might be brought into Russia and there rendered tame, since they are as fond of living in lakes, river?, and ponds, as in the sea. — In point of manners, there is no animal of all that we have mentioned so amusing and agreeable as this creature so much sought after for his fur. Their favourite manner of lying is family-wise together. The male caresses the female with his fore-paws, with which he can do every thing in the most inge- nious ways; and the female plays with her young, and rejects the dalliance of the father with an affected coyness. Their love for their young is so great th.at they not only rush into ex- tremities for their deliverance, but not seldom grieve to death at the loss of them. On their flight they carry their sucklings in their mouth and drive the full grown before them. When they are so fortunaite as to escape their pursuers they deride them as soon as they are safe in the sea with all manner of diverting tricks; one while keeping them themselves right on end iu the water and jumping over the waves, at the same time holding the fore paw over the eye as if to shade it from the sun while narrowly looking out for somebody; then lying flat on the back and stroking their belly; then throwing their young into the watcr^ and fetching th«m out as:aiu. 7 A Whea I » ii'.' ; ■»t m ,!i'ii' 1 ■ ' f :lf.* ';i!|! ■\ rl ;; SH tookf;s vif,w of the rusrian f.mpire. When a sea-otter is closely prcssfid, and sees no means of escape^ he scolds and grins like an angry cat, if he receives a blow he immediately makes himself ready to die; he lies on his side, draws up his hind-legs together, and covers his eyes with his fore-paws. The Kurils in the spring-season go out to sea in leather canoes or baiders the distance of ten Torsts and more for the capture of these animals. When they surprise a sea-otter^ they immediately shoot arrows at him; and, as the animal can nil keep long at a time under water on account" (1 respiration, he presents himself repeatedly n.( ,1, °| intervals to the attacks of his enemies. BvtTI bubbles that rise the hunters know which wavll' turns, and follow him in the vessel. \\\i^n 1 length exhausted and breathless, he wishes to J pose on the surface of the water they kill l/ with a lance. '" SECTION XII. Account of the Mines of Jiussia. ■() ' 1 . . . . ■. . .V ... :,'l ■) i V' , .1 THE empire of Russia possesses mines which may be matched with the richest and most productive of those in any quarter of the globe; the working, whereof for a century past has created a new national occupation with ample returns, and the astonishing spoils whereof have aflforded the means to a beneficent administration fur the most extraordinary undertakings. The principal scene of these transactions lies in the cold metallic regions of Siberia, the acquisition whereof, after the lapse of a hundred years, un- expectedly became of such great importance to the Russian empire; for though the soil of this enormous country is almost everywhere pregnant "with ores and noble as well as useful minerals, the European part, however, is herein by no means to be compared with the Asiatic. The largest works are at present carried on in the IJralian, in the Altayan^ and in the Ncrtschin- skian mineral mountains: of less importance are Rome iron and copper mines in those of Olonet/, and in several other parts of the empire. In the Uralian mountains arc gold, iron, and copper mines, which latter arc sonic of the most im- portant in the empire. The Altayan mountains contain the richest gold and silver shafts, also veins of lead, copper, and iron, impregnated with gold and silver. But in the Nertschinskian mountains are ve y rich mines of lead containing gold and silver. The discovery of these shafts, as well as the * ConcerBing (he Russian weights and measures it is to be obsorred, that a berkeretch contaius ten pood; a pood origin of the proper mine working in Russia 1 of no older a date than the beginning oftbi eighteenth century, as the single attempts tbi were made prior to that period for llndino-aii working the metals, were but very iihijrnilican The nation has possessed iron-ore Iroin times in memorial. The boors formerly collected themselves, smelted it and made iron of it. ^MJ they were deficient iu this metal, instead of] they had recourse to hard wood, which, inord to make still harder for their own iisc and fJ posterity, they laid in bogs ; both nietliuds al practised still in some parts of the euipire-l Siberia at a time reaching back beyond all histon mining was so vigorously practised by a uatii who now bear the name of Tschiides, that thJ various and large Ilalde, still subsisting, hii given rise to a great number of newly adopl( and in part very rich mines. Of the two proper goUl-nuiics bdonpiiiigtotl Russian empire, that of Bercsof near Ekatannej burg on the Ural is by far the luo't niiioriJ Here annually is obtained about four iuimlrl thousand pood* of ore, which on an averai yields from every thousand pood forty to sis{ solotniks of fine gold. To these mines the Cavaderous and the Pyschina, ontheritul Ueresof, and Uktus, together having eight lii( dred and sixty-one troughs. The whole her of men employed in these works amountil upwards of two thousand, whereof about 1 forty pounds; a pound uiuuty.six solotniks; a soloi ninctjr.six parts; three solotniks arc one lote. 2 thoun TOOKE'S VIEW OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. 5f5 . p^ two hundred are in actual employ I! I No enrolled boors are any longer allowed (to them The Itlrcc, BDur mines of Bcresof have aflforded annually four, five, or six, but in later years seven i" iirht po"^ "^ S"'''" From the commencement J^tlic works here in the year 1754 till the year I'iA tliercforc in thirty-four years, generally hout a hundred and twenty pood has been gain- 1'. ^^iijcii in value is estimated at one million one idrcd and ninety-eight thousand rubles, and, fier deducting the costs, have yielded above rluindred and eighty thousand net profit. If ctakethc gold and silver here obtained, as it locfcds from the separation, according to its landard in coinage, and balance it with the ex- ,„fcs, which are paid in copper money, ac- jjiijr to the true value of it, then a profit of .jfciHit hundred thousand rubles will appear. The Voyf'/er gold-mines in the mountains of iloiictz, which annually afibrd only a few ( from ijediousaiid seven hundred and forty-four to one oiisiind seven hundred and seventy, in general flv-sevt'ii) pounds of gold, have, on account of lejinalhicss of their produce, been some years ce abandoned. The most important silver-mines are those of olhyvaii in the mineral mountains of Altay, licli were undertaken by the crown in the year (5. The main shaft is the Schlangenbcrg, one if the richest ever known in the world; the uieonnrskoy in point of consequence holds the \t station, llesidcs these two there are still hers of less importance, alternatelv or con- iitlvworked; and from a new shaft, tilipofjkoy, t';,' ril)a, it is expected that the produce will li;;;i;('{|iial that of the Schlangcnbcrg. From llioio mines together are at present aniiuiilly taiiifd upwards of two million pood of ore, the iiliiits whereof have of late years hocome poorer hdiu! half. At lirst (he pood of it condiiiied If or six solotuiks of auriferous silver, since liivtour, and latterly, especially since 17S5, it tntaiiis not above two and a half. Here are five lundcrics, and the head-quarters are at Barnaul. M workmen employed in 1786 were altogether lilv-four thousand. The whole expenditure boiints yearly to four hundred thousand rubles, pvhich one half is paid in copper coined on the mt, the other half in bank assignments. iFrom the year 1745, when the crown took these mines into possession, to the year 1787, therefore in forty-two years, they have afibrded twenty-four thousand four hundred and sixty pood of fine silver, and about eight hundred and thirty pood of fine gold, which together amount in value to upwards of thirty millions of rubles. The cxpences for this whole time even including the charges of separation at St. Petersburg, come to not above seven millions, consequently here is a pure gain of twenty-three millions of rubles, which is very much increased if we estimate the copper coin, in which this expence is paid at its real value, and consider, that even this is got and coined at the mines themselves. The silver, or rather the auriferous and ar- gentiferous lead mines of Nertschinsk have been in constant work ever since their discovery in the year 1704, but with alternate success. Here, from the several shafts, more or less rich, are obtained annually about two million pood of ore, which however is very poor, and at present on an average scarcely contains a solotnik or one and a half in a pood. Here are five founderies of which Staroi-Nertschinsk is the chief, which is also the head-quarters. The workmen are about two thousand, and the boors inrolled to it for cutting of wood, .about thirteen thousand. The annual ex ponces amount to about two hundred thousand rubles in copper coin and bank assign- ments. From 170i to 1787, therefore in eighty years, these mines produced eleven thousand six hundred and forty-four pood of silver, from which since the year 1752 about thirty-two pood of gold has been separated. Botlfi together amount in value to about ten millions of rubles. According to the foregoing statements, there- fore, in the interval between 1704 and 1788, at all the gold and silver mines were gained about a thousand pood of gold and about thirty-six thousand pood of silver, amounting together in valiu; to upwards of forty-five millions of rubles, and on which the expences were uot more than fifteen millions of rubles. The most important copper-mines of the Rus- sian empire are principally in the Uralian, Altayan, and Olonetziau mountains. The Uralian mineral mountains, which contain by far the richest mines, and to which belong all the copper-works in the governments of Pcrnie, Ufa, Yiactka^ and Kazan, had in the year 1779 in all sixtj •;! •'if . iiii ■It. ,!!:■ ' ■! .. F : m 64& TOOKE'S VIEW OF THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. lixty foiinderies, together containing two hundred and twenty-nine furnaces, Mid at which in 1782 above one hundred and ninety thousand seven hundred and fifty-two pood of copper were ob- tained. In the Altayan mountains is liicewise a considerable copper-mine; besides, there arises from the cupriferous silver-ore a tolerable quan- tity of copper: at present in all about fifteen thousand pood. In the year 1782 here were coined eighteen thousand seven hundred and ninety-three pood of copper. The spoil got from the Olonetzian mountains, and the other separate copper-wctis ca.;not be computed at more than a few hundred poods. The entire annual amount of the copper ob- tained is therefore about two hundred thousand pood, the value whereof in money, reckoning the pood only at ten rubles, makes a sum of two millions of rubles. As for some years past the extraction of the copper has greatly declined, we can in fact at present scarcely admit more than two hundred thousand pood as the certain yearly total ; and the price of that metal has accordingly risen. The iron-mines form the greatest of all Rm J mineral wealth, after the salt-works, i!' j known to all the world, that this empire |,. all its mineral mountains, and even in tnai'^'i its plains, a prodigious quantity of inn-ore ot J the known sorts; but the most numerous and ilJ richest mines are in the Uruliuu mounl;i||<, ^.i 1 in the year 1779 were generally at Moik'scve'l forges and Ave hundred and thirty-twu I hammers. There arc, besides, two smtlij houses in the Altayan and Sayanc ntouiitain,; J several in tlie governments of Oloiictz, VoloirdJ Nishnei-Novgorod, Kostroma, Kursk, TulJ Tambof, &c. Without being liable to niucl mistake, we may at present admit for tho whoJ empire, about a hundred forges and ci^ht hnJ dred hammers; but besides the iroii-worb are carried on in the gross, there are a mi number of boorsmiths who smelt (he ore nt ho J and of the iron make various kinds of uicnsiU Such little smithies are particularly in tliegovctJ raents of Olonetz and Archangel, in .some reeinJ of the Volga, ai\d in Siberia near Krasiut^aril Yenisseisk, &c. ■ I M > -ri ;}: ■ ..;i- I I IV •■ ■>i END OF TOOKES VIEW OF THE RUSSIAN EMPlKt:. .-.* i.: V !. ••< •♦^s; ' >•; iW-: \s ACCOUNT OF AN EMBASSY TO Tin; KINGDOM OF A V A, • SKNT BY THE (iOVI'.ll.VOll-CiKNIlUAL 01' INDIA, IN 1705. .■;%. • , . . BY MICM^IEI. SYMES, E S q, MKIJTF.NANTCOLONKI, IN HIS MAJESTY'S 7Gih REGIMENT INTRODUCTION. llFlRFi nrc no countries on the habitable {r|(.bi', where the arts of civilized life are loiMood, of which we have so limited u know- |ii|('C as of those that lie between the Dritish pws^ioiis in India and the empire of China. Coiiicrniii^ India beyond the Gangea, scarcely li,iort' WAS known to the ancients, than that such a iiliv (lid exist. Undeserved importance is r^^M ' incs attributed to that which i.s imperfectly At length the entcrprizing genius of Emanuel, tlictlosi' of the fifteenth century, opened a new iirM, and laid the foundation of general wealth |o Ciiropo, on the ruin of the Egyptian trade, y of I lie slate of Venice. Early in the six- jtoiilli cciitnrv, the Portuguese made themselves \i-[m of Malacca, and soon ac(|uired inilucncc Inion:; the neighbouring maritime states. To the jiriters of this nation history is principally in- lilrd for whatever information has been obtain- lof the eastern countries of India. TliP Foi'tna,njese acquaint us, that f<>Mr povv- kiil states divided amonj;,-! them the rip-i(Mis lliich lie between the S. K. province of Briii:h yia, Yiinan in China, and the Eastern Sea; fceirtftrrilories extended from Cassav and Assam. idie N. W. as fur South-eastward as the isle of lunkseylon. These nations were known to Eu- kpeaiis by the names of Arracan, Ava, Pegue, J Slam. Arracan, properly Yee-Kien, borders the S. E. province of British India, and in- H'oL.II. No. ex. eludes the sea coast with wliat Is called the Hroken Islands, as far as Cape Negrais; Ava, the name of the ancient cupilul of the Birmans, has been usually accepted as the name of the country at large, which is iMiamraa. This em- pire is situated east w ard of Arracan, being divided from it by lofty mountains, called Anou-pec-tour miou, or the great we.stern hilly country. On the N. W. it is separated from Cassay by the river Keen-Duem; on the N. it is bounded by moun- tains and petty principalities, that lie contiguous to Assam ; on the N. E. and E. it reaches China and North Siam; on the S. its limits have so often varied that it is diliicult to ascertain them with precision. Pegue, called by the natives Bagoo, is the country S. of Ava, wliich occupies the sea-coast as far as Martaban, properly Mon- diinaa; Prome (or Pee) was its no^lncrn frontier, and Siam adjoined on the East. The kingdom of Siam, or Sbaan, cornprelieiided as far S. as Jiuikseylon, E. to Cambodia and Laos, and N. to O/einec ( probably tht^ Chiamce of Loubere), and Vunan in China. This nation calls itself Tai, and is further distinguished by the appella- tions Tay-yay, or Great Tai, and Tai-nay, or LiiMe Tai: their former c;ipital was named Yoooia or Yoodra; whence the Siamese are frc- quenJy called Yoodras by the Birmans. Tlie Portuguese exercised an influence in the Birman and Pegue countries, as well as Arracan, so .'ong as they maintained an ascendancy over ■7 B other ..M i ^' '^ , i(i-m •*r«'' !**irP'>r.i,i'""'»ww,»j|i< -y I r« 'i j,i^wpj,vf.wi"Ti"-.l"i'^'»»"'J.i 548 EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. other Euro])c:in nations in the East; but on the seizme of thc'ir scltlcuients and abridg'tMnent of their (loniiniuis by tho Dutch, (he consequence Ihiit Iwul l)e('u iiuisi'xcd to the P«rt(i'.';i."si; nume sunk in(oin^ignili(■ance; and tlie Christian settlers' degenera(fd 111(0 a coniiunplible race, distin^'uish- ed only for tiicir feebleness and vice. In the beiiisniin;.!," of tlie seventeenth century, both the Ei);';!i,sh and Dnk-h iiad obtained s "ttle- nients in the lJiiMi^.n dnmir.ions, which were al'terwiirds furrei(ed by the ujisconduct of the liitfer; and Europeans ()f all nations were banish- ed from Ava. The Enj^lish, after many years, were reinstated in (heir factories at Syriam and A -a; anU the island of Negrais was likewise taken pos!;es'!ion of by the Ensflish, where tlie government of Fort St. George established a s4Jt- tlement ; but little benefit seemj:' to have been de- rived from it. The supremacy of the Birmans over the Pecucrs ro'itinued throus;hont the seventeenth, and during the first forty years of the cighteiuil; centuries, when the Pegucrs revolted; a civil war ensued, which was prosecuted on both sides wMi sav.-'ge ferocity, in 174+ the IJritish factory at Syrian) was destroyed by the conteuclinii' parlies, and the views of co'ninerie were bUspemled by pre- cautions of personal seeiirilv. Scccess long con- tinued doubtful; at length the TegrTs, by the aid of arms procured from the Europeans trading to their ports, and with the assistance of some renegide Dutch and native Portuguese, gained several v-cfories over the IJirmans, These ad- vantyges ihe-: pursued with so much vigour, that, r:irlv in 17 j^, the capital of Ava was invested. Tl»e Birmans, disheartened by repeated defeats, :.ftci a short siege, surrendered at dii-eretion. Dweepdee, the last of a loeg race of Hirinan kirgs, was made prisoner with all his family, ex- cept two son-!, who etl'ected their escape lo the Siamese; t'rom whom they found a favourable reception, and were (lattered with assurances of security and succour. Bonna Delia, or Beinga Delia, king of Pegue, when he had completed the conquest of Ava, re- turned to his own country, leaving his brother Appuraza to govern the late capital of the Birman king*, whom he carried with him a prisoner to Pegue; enjoining his brother to reduce the re- fractorv. displace suspected persons, and exact on oath of allegiance from such liirmans as •hould be sud'cred to retain their furmer posses- sions. Matters at first bore the appt^.-nfp « tranquillity and submission; and the priiici))^! |,, habitants acknowledged themselves vassuU of dp conqueror. Alompra, a Birman of low extraction, waj continued by the corqueror in the ebief-liipljf i Blonchahoo, at tlia* time an inconsitleiabh! vi|. lagx', about twelve ruilcs from the river, M. of Keoum-meouin. This man, who pos«(Ni(.(i ^ j s])irit of eutcrpri/e and boldness e({iial to tlu; most arduous nndertakirgs, at (irst, like many otluij dissembled the reluctance he felt at tliciinpnv.im] of a foreign yoke,, and submitted to the iiemsjiy of fortune; but, unlike others, he enterlaineli hopes of emancipation, and meditated onthchct] means of accon)plishing his future purpose. lie had at this time, in the town and nciglibour. hood of Monehaboo, about a himdied dcvoieill followers, on whose c>»uragc and fidelity he could] safely rely. He strengthened and repaired (Iie| stockade that surrounded the town, witlioutl awakening suspicion in the minds of the PeginTsJ who did not imagine that a person so iiicoiiDidcr-l al)le would attempt an act of rebellioii under I cluck of a numi;rous garrison, distant (nily lif.J teen leairucs. Thus resting m una''iiiarv aJ curily, liiero were not more than fil'tv \\<<^ soUlitTs ill rvlonchabiio, who, on a!l occasiuiii, treated the Birmans w ith coiitcinptuoiis nrrogiiicej Alompra, availing himself of the rcyendiiLiilc);-! cited bv some particular act of iudiguitv, nuiedl his already well-prepared adl.erents to aiiMj resistance, ard attacking the Peguers ^^ilil irre- sistible viol^'iice, put e\ery man of tiial iiationtoj the sword. Well-knowing the consequera should he be taken, he now thought of phiciiigtlid crown npon his ovrn head, and he wai^vj v/iq with the Peiiuers; meeting with eiH\tun!i;eraoiil he pursued the war, and at length eii!iri;!v\aiiJ quished the Peguers, and wore tlie diailerJ Partial to the scene of his first success, he f»| moved the seat of government to MoiicliabcJ which he constituted his capital, and fixed .u ai the place of his future residence. Not contenl -,vith obtaining the throne of the Birman empiiej lie pursued the Peguers, took the city of Pcgoi w til the king, and annexed his kingdom to hij lately acquired possessions At length (In Birmans attacked Arracan, which they likowiij added to their empire; and alsj grca' partuftbl kingdom of Siam. The tranq^uillity of the Birman empire n buncvcij EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. 549 i .r/.r frefluentlv disturbed by insurrections in Lcnnqnercd provuicen; at length, ni\i\).i, a Lcc was concluded with the Siamese, by which r pirniaiis acquired a threat accession of the L « iinnortant parts of that kinsrdoin. Become . iire-emnient among the nations which sepa- "i* the ""ulf '^f Bengal from the Chinese sea; jesicd'of a territory equal in extent to the Ecrinan empire, ( before its dismemberment by apnieoii, emperor of the French;) blessed with (Iibrious climate, and a soil capable of pro- liicing almost every article of luxury, convenience, Wcommerce, that the Eastcansupply, Miamma, IrBinna, thus happily circumstanced, enjoyed lic pleasing nrospect of a long exemption from le miseries of war; but unbending pride, and '.;entiiient unju-^tifiably prosecuted, nearly era- toiled them in fresh troubles, before they had Iflieto prolit bv the advantages of peace, and Ireatened to raise them up a foe far more Lidable than the Chinese, Arracaners, Peguers, hme, and Cassayers. iTiie trade of Arracan, which is chiefly carried y,\{\\ the eastern ports through an inland tvitatioii, when the rivers are swollen by the M liiid sulfered r«*peated interruptions from Iralical lianditii, who, infesiing the Broken ilmdri, aitioiiLT which the channels wind, that icllip usual course of boats, not only co'nmillcd LredatioiH on private mcrduiiils, bwt had even ichiiniiiu'ss to attack fleets laden with th • royal itonio*. These robbers, when the season of veardid not admit of their plundering on the (er. soiii'ht adventures by land; and, as the mails alit'dge, conveyed th«'ir booty of goods 1 callie across the river TSaaf, into the Chit- ^oiia: province, where, secure frou? pursuit, iii<: tluMi under the protection of the Briiish ij, they disposed of their spoils to ailvanta'j;e, id lived at ease, until returning want impelled nito renew their predatory inroads f. The banks of this river are covered with deep dos, interspersed with scanty spots of Itivation, and a few wretched villages, where ell the poorest classes of herdsinen, and the > ( iisloms arc usually received iu kind, viz. one tenth of |ciiiiui:i) the native (roops of India arc always called, is derived from the IVrsian word ,-//)«/•, which means a soldier, and is constantly used to dis. tii'tjuisih tliu native troops from Kurupiau soldiers. Lbixur. WWi •|::li'H!lS iH'» I h :):| 1 ^f\^mft »'.tu«i,iT»^i- 550 EMBASSY TO TriE KINGDOM OF AVA. VMS assigned, acted with more circumspection and prudence than the government from which he had received his instructions. After he had crossf'd the river, and encamped on- the western l)ank, he dictated a letter to the British judge and magistrate of Chittigong, acquainting liini of the reasons for the inroad; that tlie caption of the delinquents was his sole object, without har- houring any design of hostilities against the Englisii. At tlie same time he declared, in a style of peremptory demand, that until they were given up, he would not depart from the Com- pany's territories: in coufirmatioa ofithis menace, he f^ortified his camp in the Birman manner, with a stockade, and seemed determined to resist any attempt to oblige him to retire. These matters being reported to the government, the Governor General was pleased to order the magistrate of Chittigong to apprehend the refugees, and keep them in safe custody until further directions. On the ajjproadi of General Erskine, the Bir- man general sent a t^ag of truce, to propose terms of accommodation, stipulating for the surrcjider of the fugitives as the basis of the agreement. General Erskine replied, ihat no proposals could be listened towhilsttheBirmans continued on Englisii ground ; but so soon as they should withdraw from their fortified cam p.andretue within their own fron- tiers, he would enter on the suljject of their com- plait)ts; notifving also, that unless they evacuated the Compan>'s possessions in a limited time, force would be used io compel them. The B'.man chief, in a nuinly confidence of the English cha- racter, personally waited on General Erskine, and disclosed to him the nature of his instructions, the enormity of the oii'enders, and the outrages thev h.ul coimnitted. General Erskine, whose moderation and judgement on this occasion camiot be too highly commended, assured him, that it was far from, the intention of the British govern- ment to screen delinquents, or sanction in their country an asylum for robbers; but as the manner in which (he BirmiMi troops had entered (he Com- pany's district wiis so repiignunt to the principles that ought to regulate the conduct of civilized nations, it was impossible for him to recede from his first determination. He gave hopes, notwith- standing, that if the Birmans peaceably retired, the Governor (ieneral would institute a regular inquiry into the charges preferred against the urisuncrs; adding, that iu^staut cumpliaucc witli the conditions prescribed, was the only oronnJi on which they could expect so rroo ^.„ • T uigence. 1 he Birman general, cither conlenl, with this intimation, or convinced that opnosii would be fruitless, professed his reliance '" General Erskine, and agreed to withdraw h, troops: the retreat was conducted in the mo! orderly manner; and so strict was the subordina! tion observed in the Birman arm v, that not on act of violence was committed either on the ncr son or property of British subjects while it con, tinned within the Company's' district, Gpn»r,i lirsknie was alterwards empowered, h, t| Crovernor General, to invest igale the cJiarffi against the refugees, wlien, after a formal am deliberate hearing, their guilt being estahlishei on the clearest evidence, they were dolivcrci over to their own law.s, by whose sentciicp, tw out of the three underwent capital pniiiKliincni, 'I'lie- amicable termination of this dill'eicnci alVorded a favourcble o|(i)or( unity to acnuire more accurate k!io\vledge than hail hitlicitobfei obtained, of {".people whove situaiiup, extent o| territory, and commerciai coi;;,(;cti()ii,s will British India, rendered aliberai intercourse mi thenj highly desirable. The trade between Cai cutta, Madras, and Rangoon, had of late \ta so rapidly mcreased, as to become an obj/c national importance, more partieidarlv on ai count of teak tindier, the produce of Avian Pegue, whence Calcutta and Madras draw al their supplies of wood for ship hnildiiiu', aiidf( various other purposes. A commerce inoiieai tide so essential to u.s, and so exten . as ton quire an annual return of Indian co... , .,(li(ic> the amount of two hundred thousand pniim .sterling, was an object worth cnltivalini!;, Kcpri senlations had, at dillerent times, been iiiadei the Suprcine Board, comp!;iining of iiijii«|i( and oppression at the port of llangoon: to prev; tlie rciMurence of n like misunderstandina', form a commercial connection on ecpiitabli' ai fited principles, and to establish a cnnliileiil anil authentic correspondence, such as ()ii;Hil sul)siHt between two great and contiguous iiiitioii! Sir dohn Shore ( now Lord Teignmouth) llioiijl pro|)er to semi a formal deputation to (he Hirai court. Nor were these the only ends U answered by the embassy; the influenn; wli the natural enemies of Great Britain had acqiiii ill that quarter was to be cohihated, ami, ii p m EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. ^51 I 1,1. overcotne; whilst the natives were to be nnresscd with an adequate sense of the power, !^ fgjouices, and, above all, the equity of the Rritisli character, in such a manner as to convince ilienitliul (heir real interests were connected with jtatcthat neither meditated, nor would suRer Lfroiiciiments and sought for nothing beyond an interchange of meichandize, on terms mutuaVy Leiieruial. The result of this mission, througii tlie various stages of its progress and completion, (ill be detailed in the subsequent pages. The Hirnians, under their present monarch, [ire certainly rising fast in the scale of Oriental Inilions. Knowledge increases with commerce; laiidastliey are not shackled by any prejudices of leasts, restricted to hereditary occupations, or for- lliidden from participating with strangers in every [social bond, their advancement will, in all pro- IbabilitV} be rapid. At present, so far from be- ing in a state of intellectual darkness, although they have not yet explored the depths of science, nor reached to cxeclleiife in the finer arts, Ihey yet have an undeniable claim to the character of civilized and well instructed people. Their laws are wise, and pregnant with sound morality; their police is better regulated than .1 most Euro- pean countries; their natural riisposition is iViendly, and hospitable to strangers; .ind their' manners rather expressive nf manly candour, than courteous dissimulation: t.ic gradations of rank," and the respect due to station, are maintained with a scrupulosity which never relaxes. A knowledge of letters is wisely diffused, that there are no mechanics, few of the peasantry, or even the common watermen, ( usually the most illiterate class, ) who cannot read and write in the vulgar tongue. Few, however, are versed in the more erudite volumes of science. !)f If 4 II' ' SECTION I. . |Siii7/rom Calcutta, on board the Sea Horse — Make the Cocoa Islands — Touch at Port Cornwallis in the Great Andaman — Some Account of the Island — Prepare to depart. !^ [AVING received my commissions from the „_ Governor General, one no pointing me Ajent Plenipotentiary, with power to treat, in ■liEnamc of the Supreme Government of India, lithtbeP^mperor of Ava; the other, vesting in me luthority to take cognizance of the conduct of the Iritisli subjects trading to, or residing in, the Untriesthat 1 was destined to visit; on Feb. 21, K95, 1 embarked (says Col. Symes) at Calcutta. Inboaril the Sea Horse, anarmcdcruizer belonging litlie East India Company, Cnptain Thomas, fcoirmander, attended by Mr. Wood, Assistant Secretary, and Dr. Buchanan, Surgeon to le mission. Our numbers were more t?'an ivenlv persons. On the evening of the 26tb, nr pilot left us in seven fathoms water ; but the liiid being foul, we anchored for the night, and Vxt morning stood to the south-east with a boiirinfr breozc, which blew without inter- lissiou till th^ 4tli of March, when we made the [♦The settlement in Port Cornwallis is not situated on the incipal island, bnt on a smallor one witliin tijc harbour, Died Cliatliam Island ay the English; the utmost length Vol. II. No. CX. Great and Little Cocoa Islands, so called from being clothed with cocoa nut trees of unusual luxuriance. These islands are flat, small, and swampy; they are uninhabited, and destitute of good water. Steering between the southern Cocoa and the north end of the Island of An- daman, we opened Port Cornwallis* on the east side of the latter. At eleven o'clock on the 5th, ' we hauled our wind and stood in; at one we came to anchor a quarter of a mile from the shore. On landing we were received by Cap- tains Ramsay and Stokoe (Colonel Kyd, the Governor, being absent, ) with the kindest hos- pitality, which continued during the time we remained fheir guests. The Andaman Islands arc a continuation of the Archipelago that extends from Cape Negrais to Atchecn Head, stretching from 10" S2' to 13» 4()'N. lat. and from 90« 6' to 92" .¥.)'£. Ion. The Great Andaman, the most i.orthern, is of which does not exceed two miles, and the breadth littlo more than half a mile: the southern extremity terminates irt a narrow neck of land, fordabic at low water to the main. T C about ;•'( M n 1 1 F iV 111 I : %^ I ::\- ; i^ • 552 EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. about 140 miles long, and 120 broad. A separa- tion, or strait, however, has lately, owing to a fatal accident, been discovered in this island, which, in fact, divides it into two, and opens a clear passage into the Bay of Bengal*. The first settlement of the English was nsade in 1791, near the sowthcrn extremity of the island, in a bay on the east side; bnt was afterwatds removed in 17*J3, by advice of Admiral Cornwallis, to the place where it is now established. The original object of the undertaking was to procure a commodious harbour on the east side of the bay, to receive and shelter his Majesty's ships during the continuance of the north-east monsrKU'; it was also used as a place of reception tor con- victs sentenced for transportation from Bengal. In the evening we walked round the grounds that had been cleared, making a circuit of little more than a quarter of a mile. A small garden, diligently tilled, produced but a scanty crop of Indian vegetables. A shallow soil, impregnated with leaves and decayed brushwood, washed down by the mountain streams, proved at first unfavouriihle to ctihivation; the pains, however, ^hich had been hcstoNNcd, seemed likely in the end to overcome this discouragement. The situation of I'.ie seKlement on the side of a hill, rising abruptly from the verge of the sea, although calculated to avoid the unwholesome cflfects of stagnant waters, was yet at times at- tended with great inconvenience, owing to the impetuosity of the torrents. Notw ithstanding the colony had been establish- es! on its present site little more than sixteen niontli!'', the habitations of the commandant and ofiicirs, were rendered <;xtremcly comfortable: the first constructed of stone ami planks, the latter of mats and clay, thatched with leaves of the rattan, or covered with boards. The surgeon had a separate dwelling at^signed him, and there was likewise a conunodioiis mess-room. Thp, number of inh.^>bitants altttgctber wn« about seven hundred, including a company of iiepoys as a guard over the convicts, and a defence to tl settlement. A situation more picturesque, or a view mor romantic, than that which Chatham Island and Cornwa lis harbour present, can scarcely be im gined: iand-loeked on all sides, nolhinn- istoi." seen but an extensive sheet of water., r<.',;oiiibliii a vast lake, interspersed with small islands and I environed by lofly mountains clothed with im. penetrable forests. The scenery of nature in thjj sequestered spot is uncommonly strikinw and grand. All that voyagers have related of uncivilized life seems to fall short of the barbarism of thel people of AndaiiJ .n. The ferocious natives of I New Zealand, t.r the shivering hiilf-aiiimatedl savages of Terra del Fuego, are in a relative stiitc of retinement compared to these islanders, Tlie population of the Great Andaman and all its de- pendencies, does not, according to Capt. Stokoe exceed two thousand or two thousand five liuiU dred souls: these arc dispersed in small sorieticsl along the coasts, or on the smaller island,s withinl the harbour, never paiiioiiH. tu ,J "/.■•) liiiiiiil EMBASSY TO TIIK KINGDOM OF AVA. 555 I y, and are insensible of any shame from Irtnnsiire*. . . . , . . , 1 Tlieir religion is the simple but f^enume homage f nature to the incomprehensible Ruler of (he I niH.-E''. expressed in adoration to the Sun as the nniarv O'"''' obvious source of jijood; to tiie Jlnonasthe secoodiiry power; and to the genii I flliP^voods, the wafers, and the mountains, as Ikilerior Jigents. In the spirit of (he storms thoj Liipffcs (lie influence of a maligniint beinie;; and, diiriii? llie soutli west monsoon, when tempests jnrevaii with uinisual violence, they deprecate his wrath by wild chorusses, which they rhant in small congregations asscnible- pearanee is not to bu found in human form. Although the principal food of the Andamaners consists of fish, yet they eagerly seizcon whatever else presents itself; lizards, guana^j rats, and snakes snjjply a change of repast. ^ + Narconihim is a barren rock, rising abruptly r.'.xt of the ocean, about twenty leagues K. of the Andaieans. It, is uninhabited, and seemingly destitutu of vegetation. we i;! ill Sf < •iiT 51 }i ii'i ^' t 554 EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. \re came lo a small villag'e^ whence a boat rowed towards us*. The Birmaii officer on board the boat enquired, in broken Portuguezc, the name of the ship, whence she came, what arms and ammunition were on board, and the name of the commander. Being satisfied in these points, he carefully committed them to writing. Mr. Palmer now appeared in the siiip's boat, bringing a pilot with him from Rangoon; and our cautious visitor took his leave. About two o'clock a small boat from Rangoon met the ship: a man in it bulled our pilot in liindoostanee, and desired him to cast anchor, as it was the intention of the governor of Rangoon to come down and receive the British deputation in person. Of course we complied with his re- quest. We continued at anchor till the next day, when about noon the fleet came in sight: it con- sisted of from twenty to thirty boats; on a nearer approach, only four out of the number seemed to belong to persons of superior condition. Three persons, apparently of higher rank, came on board: they meant to be civil, but were perfectly free from restraint, and took possession of chairs without waiting for any invitation, or paying the smallest regard to those who were not seated ; ■whib.t their attendants, seemingly as much at ease as their masters, formed a semicircle around them on the deck. The chief of the three, a good- looking young man, of short stature, I under- stood to be a person of consideration: he was governor of the province of Dalla. The second, an elderly plain man, said he was Nak-haan-gce ; literally, the royal car. I was afterwards inform- ed he was transmitter of intelligence, or reporter, to the imperial court; an office of much con- fidence. The third, a Sereo, an inferior secretary, was a man of little relative importance compared with the other two. We conversed for an hour, through the medium of an interpreter who spoke the Hindoostanee : they were extremely inquisitive, and asked many questions concerning the object- of the mission, which were answered in friciidly but general terms. Having paid their compli- ments, they arose to depart, and returned to their boats, making lavish professions of friendship. At length we reached Rangoon. The Princess Royal East Indiaman, that had come from * This proTod tn bo a watch>boat, which is stationed at the mouth of the rirer, to send iotclligcnce of the arrival of Madras for a cargo of timber, fired a salute f 1 the Company's colours; and the Sea Horse nail I a compliment to the battery on shore, of elev 1 guns, which were returned by an equal number the pilot camc-to below the town, apart from the other ships about half a mile. As soon as the Sea Horse dropped anchor, all the boats withdrew without further notice or explanation. Being desirous of sending some of our atteiid-i aats on shore to refresh themselves, particularlr the Hindoos, whose religion enjoins tliein not to eat victuals dressed on board, and who were oa tliiit account put to great inconvenience, beiii» obliged at sea to subsist on dried fruits, sweet'. meats, and parched pulse: I sent one of the at. tendantk to the governor of Dalla, to acquaint him with my wish. He, in reply, desired that I would defer landing till the following day, when a habitation that was preparing for our reception would be in readiness: with this request 1 ac-l quiesced, and communicated the same to Captaial Thomas, and the gentlemen of the deputation I who forbade their servants to leave the ship >vithoiit I' jy miles distant) in his own boat; a promise Ll'iicii lie omitted to perform. J III the afternoon, Mr. Wood, Dr. Buchanan, I nd mvself, landed, and were conducted to a JJ0U8 temporary building which had been pre- I ated for ""'' reception: it was situated on the rpditlie liver, nbout five hundred yards below ,,/'(,)^vii, opposite to where the Sea Horse was I ,..(.(]; it consisted of only one .story, raised tliroc I'cfit iVom the ground, supported on posts jj'ji, into the earth; an elevation very necessary 1(0 tlie comfort of its inhabitants, as the hi<\h [ipring tides washed the foundation pillars, and lilniost insulated the building, by filling a channel Lhich llic '"''"** ''"'^ excavated. This edifice, liboiit niiU'tv feet in lengtij, was entirely composed lof bamboos and strong cane mats, and divided several comi)artnients; the roof was lofty, liiid i(»vL'rcd with the same materials, which were llaid ill such a manner as to allord |)rotection from Iraiii, and shade from the sun: the floor, a bam- lOoV'itii'i',". "as likewise spread with units; and iji, o!i(! apartment small carpets were laid, liiouhlless designed as a ujark of distinction. On llandiie, «(! were received by the Scree, who Imade a Irivoloi.s excuse? for not having called laccording to his i)romisc. On entering the Iviraiiili), (ir balcony, we were saluted by the liouiuls of very discordant music, issuing from the linslrianeiits (if a band of musicians sent by the iGovornor to welcome us; to these he had diifjiiglv added a set of dancing girls, and |tumi)linii' bo>s, who exhibited a variety of move- In'icnts in altitudes, some of which was not un- Imarul. Having dismisjcd this noisy assemblage, land taken a view of our hibitalion, we thought lit more ad\isal)le and nioie commodious to sleep board. Lt'aving therefore jiart of the guard land a few of our attendants to occupy the house, |«r relnnicd at dusk, and passed the night on |l)(iar(l the Sea Horse, better lodged, and more Icoiiirortahly, than if we had continued in our |iicw dsvelling. Not a boat, however, of any description, jiliiriiig all this lime, came to our ship, either ll'nim the English merchantmen in the river, or liom shore; a circumstance that bore the appeac- jance of distrust and prohibition on the part of jllie government ; but the truth was, that matters lof etiquette had not been adjusted. Vol. II. No. CXI. On the following morning. Captain Thomas and the gentlemen of the deputation accompanied me on shore to our habitation. Wo found no person of distinguished consequence there; but crowds of the lower class, both men and women, were collected from curiosity. In a short lime several baskets were brought, with the Ray- woon's, or Governor's compliments, containing venison, ducks, chickens, bread, and roots: the same company of musicians that had performed oil the preceding day, attended to amuse us. At twelve o'clock the approach of a person of erudition was announced, when a tall elderly man, of a graceful appearance, followed by seve- ral attendants, was ushered in, under the title of liaba Sheen, whose manners were easy and re- spectful. After informing me, through the me- dium of a Portuguese interpreter, that he was second in authority at Rangoon, and held the office of Ackawoon, he apologized for the ab- sence of the Raywoon, or Governor of the town, who, he said, was prevented from waiting on me by indisposition; and added, that he would be happy to shew me every attention in his power. I expressed my sense of his politeness; remarking, that my wants were confined to per- mission to purchase a few necessaries, and the means of finding a messenger to the Viceroy of Pcguc, with a letter from the Governor General of India, and one from myself, which I was de- sirous should be delivered as speedily as possible. To this he replied, that he would forward by ex- press any commands I might have; observing that it was anuseless troubletosendaservant of niyown. His meaning was obvious, and as this was his first visit, which might be considered rather as ceremonious, than as intended to discuss business, I did iioi, press the matter farther; being, how- ever, determined not to protract the purposes of the mission longer than was necessary. Wo parted about two o'clock; and, at his desire, my Mooiishee wrote a list of such articles as we stood in need ot", and tendered payment beforehand; an oH'cr that was declined. Early in the after- noon Haba Sheen, the Ackawoon, paid us another visit, and brought with him, as interpreter, a Mussulman merchant, who spoke Persian tole- rably well, through whom I was enabled to con-, vey my sentiments with more case than at our former meeting. A great deal of trifling and evasive answers, 7 D however, ii t^ J m li-ii r !/i: ii 556 EMBASSV TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. however, took place on tlie part of the Rangoon government; and the petty marks of authorized disrespect from ditlercnt quarters, at lenj^th de- termined me to come to a full and satisfactorv eclarcissemenl with that government, before I would consent to visit the Viceroy at Pegtie. In pursuance of this resolution, I sent to Baba Sheen, desiring to see him as soon as convenient; and he accordingly soon after paid me a visit. After recapituiating the various causes of umbrage which had been given me, I added, that all these reasons combined, which were further strength- ened b}' the Viceroy's returning a vague and verbal reply to the Governor General's letter, contrary to their known usage, rendered it im- possible for me to proceed to Pegue, until he should explain the motive for such mysterious conduct; and I desired, that if any doubts were entertained respecting the objects of my mission, x)T the nature of my de^iigns, he would express himself freely, and give me an opportunity, by removing them, to undeceive their government. He replied, as usual, in equivocal terms, and by an assurance that it was no more than what was conformable to custom. 1 said, I was sorry that our customs were so incompatible with tbeirs: that I could not, consistent with what I owed to the dignity of my own government, longer submit to my present situation ; that as their forms and ours didered so widely, and, from what he said, were not likely to correspond, without a deroga- tory concession on one part or the other, there was no help for it; we conld not apply tlie remedy, and slionld part as we had met, on icrms of mutual good will and friendship As I had thus far acquiesced, Baba Siicen did not ex- pect that matters would take such a turn: in- telii"-ence of my arrival had been forwarded to the court, and the autiiors of my departure would be subject to its displeasure: he appeared alarmed, and earnestly asked, " What is it you desire.^" I replied, immediate release from all personal restraint; that the spies which Wi-rc stationed on board the Sea Horse, and the sentinels that accompanied every boat that left or came to the ship should be removed; that my servants should have the same liberty that the servants of other strangers enjoyed, with leave to purchase what they wanted ; that boats from shippinp the river should have free access, and tlmco mandcrs permission to visit me; that Mr. yi^'T should have safe conduct to the Viceroy Pegue, to receive in person a verbal acktiowie'jge, ment of the Governor General's letter, and an mj vitationto me to visit Pegue, or bring with himi written reply; that unless these reasoii.ihlc roquisiJ tions were acceded to, I must beg leave to denarH which I should do on the most amicable tcriiHanJ only regret that the public character 1 Imd (U honour to fill, did not admit of coiu-essionsoninJ part which would be considered as huniiliatino'U my countrymen. To this Baba Sheen answered id his former strain, endeavouring to amuse mewiiH a story quite impertinent to the subject. Id, him it was very well; the English and BiriiiarJ nations, I hoped, would long continue to mainl tain a friendly intercourse: at the same time bcf] ged to be favoured with his commands to Call cutta. Finding, however, that [ was deteriiiiiicit] he said he would consult the Raywoon, and^iJ me a reply in the afternoon: he then took hJ leave. At four o'clock, Mr. Wood and myself mel the Raywoon and Baba Sheen at our habitation] they came accompanied by a numerous train ol followers; among whom, the Nak-haan attended] to listen to, and note the conversation. AfitJ talking for three hours to no purpose, and offer] ing to yield in some things, they at length a2;rceil to give up every point. Mr. Wood was to ad company Baba Sheen to Pegue; the captains ol the English ships were to have free access; oufl attendants liberty to purchase what thcv wantedj and to go where they pleased ; the spies stationei on board the Sea ilorse were to be removed, am boats suilcred to pass from the ship to the short without a Birman sentinel. These matters beinji stipulated, and a punctual performance '^olcmnln promised, I relinquished my design of goina away for the present, and we parted with appiJ rent contentment and good humour on both sidesa and the morning of the 2i)th produced a satis- factory adjustment of every point in contcntiooj by an unqualified acquiescence on the partoftlieT Rangoon government, to my several requisition! SECTIO.N'I .f^,;.,l EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. SECTION III. 557 Cl fnmtto g. used ;i-i I ;:« m fi ' i n m 1 P'^^ ] »! ■ i.'ll, '; J, 1 1 1't f ; -m tl ^M mi i-;ij 1" r' t if 1 I 11 il'^ ; '_ 1 1 H'-' !■■ m 1 ' ■' \ 11 ii^i' i-'t.l 1 !«■ 5j8 EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. iisr.'d short oars made in tlic Englihli form, and >vlio sceinod to iinderstiind their busiiiesH. A l;o hravv boat was provided (or tlie soldiers and our doiiirsiics, and ii smiiil cutter uttch(h'd us a kitchen: (he boat destined for Dr. Buchanan did not arrive until it was dark, and bein^ u very indiU'oreiit one we imagined it was kept out of sight ("or that reason. The nioulli oftlie S3rian or Peguc river, where it joins with that of Rangoon, is about three niih-s beh)w the town; we tlierefore waited till the ebb tide was nearly s|)cnt, in order to droj) ilowii, and take the first of the' Hood to ascend ilie river of Pegue. At eight o'clock at night Ave euil)arked, accompanied by two war-boats; in one of which was the Nak-baan of Rangoon, and in the otiicr an inferior olUcer. A black Portugue/e, in the service of the provincial government, who spoke the language of Iliii- dostan, came as oOicial iiiicrprelcr: we bad like- wise another Portngucze, named Paunlclioo, who engaged in iny service at the Andaman Island, ai.d wlio was a valuable acqnisliiun ,j me during the mission*. '1 Early in thy morning F)r. Rurhanjin ami „„ J walked out with our guns, aceoinpaiijcd by i^ a dozen attendants: the country rotiii',1, as I' '. otir view could reach, displayed a loyoj nh|j with clumps of trees at distant inlcr\als; ;, tl I rcctly grass had grown in some places vc'iy hi.,),] in others, where it had been bninl, (l;,,r,. ^ peared good pasturage for cat lie: \v,; s,,v tfl einl'^iiked divisions of a few rice plaiiialion ■ J discovered the vestiges of former ciildi;,.' J population ; but during a walk of two liiHirstJ eye was not gratilied by the sight ol' a lioii,, an inhabitant: desolated by tlie conlciitioiisol'i IJirmaiis and Pcgucrs, the country had i,,|| ,j recovered from (he ravages of war. Tlio |,;,|| of the river, on "each side, are low, iiiidllielj seems ada|)ted to produce excellent crdps; lim] is now quite d<'serted, and become the itiidisiiiiJ domain of the wild beasts of the forc-,t, SECTION IV. tArrh'c at Pcs:uc — PoUlc Jiircption — InxUed to the Cddtvathn of the .Iniiual Fistival—Prora-ii ^c. (Inscribed — Jnlrodiiclioit to Ihc J7d_;/U()(/», or I 'inrujj — Gruiid J)is}Uini w/'^V/'cu'drA.v— (,';(/;. J of the liirmaiis — 'ihc Binnans dose the Year liilh a i)uvificiUorij CevLDioninl, in mhich the Eiim Gentlemen bear a Fart. . : , I AT noon wc got under way, and soon passed a village on the right, consist"ng of about twenty houses; the river gradually diminislicd in breadth, and at (his place was not more than fojty yards wide, (he hanks covered with co|)pi(:e and hing reeds: after passing another and larger village wher« there was a chokey or watch-house, we proceeded through a cultivated country, and numerous villages appeared on each side. At seven in the evening we were in sight of Pegiu", and judged the distance by water fronj Rangoon to be about ninety miles, most part of the way in a northward direction; but the windings of the river are so great, that the road in a strait line must be much less. >Vhen we approached the * He siHikc (lio liii-man language fluently, aiie had leftf. ^\'c had each a small apartment as a Lej chamber, with carpets spread over the nials aj a large room to dine in and to receive \i^iliil huts \\'ere also erected for our attendants; ana bamboo palisade, inclosing a court siiHirienll spacious, surrounded (he whole. Sliortl\ aflf our arrival, two ofiicers of government waikd three and font feet from t\n' i^round, composed wliiillfj l)amboos and mats, and iudilierently tlialdicil. Tiiisi defect that extends universally to their ouii ihvil'ii!:<, all'ords matter of siirprixe in a country wIktc tlic cuij grass used for thatching is so plctitiful. fMBASSY TO THP- KlNCnOM OF AVA. BS9 L* wItH COnpUmcnts of congratulatioa from ihe'lVlaywoon: they ttaid hut a short time, pcr- I teiving t!"'^ ^^ ^^f® "^"'J ^" arranging con- TenienccH for the night. In the nilternoon of the next day an officer I (tiled CIic-Key, second in rjink to the May woon, •ndthe Scree-dogee, or sccrotarv of the provincial Lyfrnment, accompanied bv Uaba Sheen, paid ^8 visit to tea. The v informed me, that tho rjayvvoon, or Viceroy, wh<» had been much en- [ngei i" directing the prt'^iaratioiiH for the eu- \mS festival, hoped we m ould wave ceremony, iiiid Kive him our company on the following I morning at the great t«.>mple of Shoemadoo, to [ticff the amusements of the first day: an invita- Itioii that"! gluilly accepted, from motives of |(ariosity as well as of respect. At eight o'clock in the morning Raba Sheen firriTed, in order to conduct us to the temple; I brought with him three smnll horses, ■(quipped with saddles and bridles. After breuk- liiit, Mr. Wood, Dr. nuchaitan, and myself nounted, and, attended by Baba Sheen, and au lAckcdoo, an officer belonging to the Maywoon's fjiouschold, also on horsebacK, set out to view Ithe fercmony. We entered the new town by the learett gntc, and proceeded upwards of a quarter fa mile through the principal street till we came dwliere it vrns crossed at right angles by anottier, flfhich led from the May woon'i residence to the nple. Here our progress was stopped by a Ipcat concourse of people, and we perceived on acbsidc of the way troops marching by single JIm, in slow time, towards the temple. By the dvice of Baba Sheen, we occupied a convenient potto view the procession*. As we had not been formally introduced, the fayvroon passed by without honouring us with * The troops that we saw were (he Maywoon's guard ; jinoriii hundred men passed us in this manner, wretchedly ncd and equipped ; many had muskets that appeared in a iiery iiiisorvicoabie state, with accoutrements not in a more tspectahlo condition ; soipu were provided with speari, irrs with sabres; whilst their dress was as motley as their •nponi. Sereral were naked to the middle, having only a lamiuerband, or waist-cloth, rolled round their waist, and passed between their legs ; some were dressed in old velvet lor cloth coats, which they pnt on regardless of lize or Ifishion, although it scarcely covered their nakedness, or Inilcdun thcgroond: it was fluery, and finery in any shape 116 Hclcoine. Some wore Dutch broad-brimmed hats bound iritli gold lace, others the crowns of hats without any brim vuL a No. CXI. any notice. Proceeding to the foot of the steps that lead to the pagoda, his elephant knelt down to siifl'er him to alight. WhiUt he was in the periortnitnce of this act, the parade elcphautst knelt also, and the crowd that foll.Hved squatted on their heels. Having ascended the ilight of steps, he put off his shoes, and walked onie round the temple without his umbrella, wliiili was laid aside out of reverence to the sanctity of the place. When he had finished this ceremony, he proceeded to the scene of amusement, a sort of theatre erected at au angle of the area of tha temple. Two saloons, or open halls, separata from the great building, formed two sides of the theatre, wliicli was about tifty feet square, cover- ed by awning of grass, spread on a flat roof of slender canes, supported by bamboo poles. Be- neath the projecting verge of the roof of one of the saloons there was an elevated .«cat, with a handsome canopy of cloth, for the accommoda- tion of the Mi\>woon and his three children; and on a bare bench beneath him sat the principal oflicers of his court. Seats were provided for the English gentlemen, covered with fine carpet* ing, but without any canopy. The diversion* of the day consisted entirely of boxing and wrest- ling. In order to prevent injury to the chilmpions, the ground had been prepared, and made soft) with moistened sand. At the latter exercise they seemed to be very expert: a short man was parti' cularly distinguished for his superior skill and fitrength; and it w\i» said, that in former contests he had killed two of his antagonists. The lirst that encountered him on the present occasion, tlioiigh much superior in size, was, after a short struggle, pitched on his head, and, as the by- standers said, severely hurt. Many others dis- played grcai. aclivity and addres.^; but in the art at all: the ufllccts of this martial band, who were fur the most part C'hristi.ii: descendants of Portuguezc ancestors, exhibited a very grotesque appearance. The lirst personages of rank that passed by wera tlirec children of the May woon, borne astride upon mea's shoulderi;; the cidost, a buy- about eight years of age; the youngost, a girl not more than live; the latter only was legitimate, b 'ing the first, born of his present wiff ; the two elder were flic oirspriii;; of concubines. The May woon followed at a short distance, monntcd ')n the neck of a very fiuc clcph:tut, which ho guided hiviself. His dress was handsome and becoming; a number of parade elephants iu tawdry housings brought up the rear. ^? 'I: w » } 7^ of 560 riBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. of boxing tliey seemed very deficient, notwith- ntanding they used fists, knees, and elbows. Tiie battles were of short duration; blood drawn on either side terminated the contest; and even withont it, the Maywoon would not sufler them to contend long. At the end of an engiige- mcntboth combatants approached the Maywoon's throne, and prostrp.ieu themselves before him, >vith their foreheads to the ground, whilst an at- tendant spread on the shoulders of each two pieces of cotton cloth, as the reward of their ex- ertions, which they carried away in a crouching position, until they mingled with the crowd. The places of those who retired were immediately filled by*fresh pugilists. This amusement lasted three hours; then tea and sweetmeats were served up in great profusion in the name of the May- Moon. Colonel Symes then received a message in- timating that the Maywoon hoped to see him the next day at the government house. The English embassy then marched through the town, the objects of universal curiosity, till they reached the gate of an inclosurc surrounding the May- woon's dwelling. When the Maywoon entered he sat down, and silence was kept for some time, whiih 1 first interrupted, says Colonel Symes, by telling hiro, that the governor general of InJia, having received his friendly letter, and being well assured of the amicable disposition of the Birman government towards the English na- tion, had charged me with the delivery of letters and presents to his majesty at Ava, and had like- wise requested his acceptance of a few articles which I had brought with me. I then rose, and presented the governor general's letter; he laid it on a tray before him, talked of indifferent matters, and was extremely polite in his expressions and manner, but carefully avoided all discourse that had the least relation to business, or the objects of the embassy. Alter half an hour's conversa- tion, on uninteresting topics, he invited us to a grand display of fireworks, which was to take pl^ce on the following day, and soon after with- drew unceremoniously. Tea and sweetmeats were then served up. Previous to the display of fireworks, the dif- ferent companies from the several Mious or dis- tricts, passed the government house in review be- fore the Maywoon and his family, each company di»tinct. A small waggon, drawn by four bufl'a- loei, profusely decorated with peacock'i fei<|u I and the tails of Thibet cows led the proces I on which were laid the fireworks of that particH J company: next advanced the men helDiigincfto J daocing and shouting; the females, in ^ jcparaJ troop, came last, singing in full thoriij ail clapping their hands in accurately measured' tim J Each division or company exhibited in turn ! own fireworks; and the display of rorkets J strikingly grand. Each company, after con tributing its share towards the genertil entertain nient, marched past the Maywoon, to the souiu, of musical instruments; after which thevamusd the Maywoon and his company wit!) sont^s anl dances, manifesting every lively demonstraiioiK joy- . o Every day during the abode of the Colontl am his retinue at Pegue, vast numbers both of mei and women, prompted by harmless curiosiiir surrounded the paling of the inclosurc alloiieL for their residence from morning till night; thol of a better class usually entered, some previous! asking permission, but many without it. Per] fectly free from restraint among themselves, tli Birmaus scruple not to go into your house wiihoi] ceremony, although you are an utter stransr. To do them justice, however, they are not at a displeased at your taking the same freedom niti them. This intrusion is confined wholly to you public room; they do not attempt to opcnadool and where a curtain dropped denotes privacJ they never oflcr to violate the barrier. On eiitei ing the room they immediately descend into tlJ posture of respect. Of all our customs, savsll^ Colonel, none seemed to surprize them tnoit than our preparations for dinner: thevarietvi utensils, and our manner of sitting at table, eil cited their wonder: they never touk anygreate liberty than merely to come into the room, aiii sit down on the floor; they meddled with nothing! and asked for nothing, and when desired toe away always obeyed with cheerfulness. The three last days of the solar year oftli Birmans are usually spent in merriment and I'easl ing; and Colonel Symes and his company werl invited by the Maywoon to be present on the 10 of April, at the exhibition of a dramatic reprei scntati(m. At a little before eight o'clock, tbi hour when the play was to commence, theyweJ to the house of the Maywoon. The theatre wJ the open court, splendidly illuminated by iann EMBASSY to THE KINGDOM OF AVA. SCI Ldtorchei. The perlbruiftnce far excelled any him itAOfH' the Colonel had ever seen. The ILloeu^ was spirited without rant, and the l^i„„miimated without heing extravagant; the Lje» of the principal performers were showy, Ikut becoming. By way of interlude between the I I, jclownith buflfoon entertained the audience Lib a recital of diflerent passajrcH; and by j^ri- laice, and frequent alti^rations of tone and ci)tiii- L,gce, extorted loud peals of laugiUer from ttie liofdators*. I On the I2th of April, the last day of the Bir- I j^ycar, the embassy were invi'cd by t!ie Ala}- km ^0 bear a part in a spoil that is universally Lictisfd throughout the Biriuan dominions on L concluding day of tbrir annual cycle, To basil away the impurities of the past, and coui- lence the new year free Ironi slain, women on ij, Jay are accustomed to ibfow water on every an they meet, which the men iiavc the pri\ilege (retorting: this licence gives rine to a great deal birtnlcts merriment, purlicularly amongst the lOUDZ women, who, armed with large suinges laggons, endeavour to wet every man that j(s along the street, nnd, in their turn, receive [wettiiic; with perfect |;ood humour; nor is the nilbt indecency cvci inaiiiresled in this or in L other of their stjorts. D^rty water is never a man is not. allowed to lay hold of a vnian, but may tlingas much water over her as i|i|pajC8, provided she has been the aggressor. fa woman warns » man that she docs not infan I join in the diversion, it is considered as an kowal of pregnancy, and she passes , without nicstalioii. . J About au hour before sun-set, says theColoncl, fewent to the Maywoon's, and found that his lady had provided plentifully to give us a wet re" ception. In the hall were placed three large chma jars, fuK of water, with bowls and ladles to fling it. Each of us, on entering, had a bottle of rose-water presented to him, a little of which we in turn poured into the palm 'f the May- woon's hand, who sprinkled it over his ()\vi\ vest of fine ilawered nuisliii; the l:i/ly thru niiile her appearance at ;!"; door, ;iiii! jravc us U) iindoritand that she did not inca;.' to join in the spoft l.crself, but made her eldest dLii;;hfcr, a piijiy ihild, in the nurse's arms, pour I'ro.n a '^oIKm e>i|) some rose-water mixed will' sa!;d.il-\vood, tirNt over her father, then over each ijf v.>: this was n sig-nal for tlie sport tr begin. We \v»>rc prcpaitJ. being dressed in linen waistcoats. From ten t ; twenty women, young and middle agec', rusii'^ ' iirto tlio hall from the umer apartments, who surrounded and del'igcd without mercy four men ill able to maintain so unequal a contest. The Maywoon was soon driven from the Held; but Mr, Wood having got possession of one of the jars, wc were enabled to preserve our ground till the water wa« exhausted: it seemed to aiford them great diver- sion, especially if we appeared at all distressed by the quantity of water ilung in our faces. All parties being tired, and completely drenched, wc went home to change our clothes, and in tJie way met many daniseJs who would willingly have re- newed the sport: they, however, were afraid to begin without receiving encouragement from us, not knowing how it mic,iH be taken by strangers; but they assailed Baba Sheen and his Rirman at- tendants, who accompanied us, with little ce/c- mony. Having put on dry clothes, we returned to the Maywoon's, and were entertained with u dance and puppet-show. ! 1, i*!| I I. l^^ ;«, ! .1. SECTION V. tiij :l lrty feet. In tlit; centre of each face of the fort there is a gateway about thirty feet wide; and these gateways were tlie principal entrances. The passage across (he ditch is over a causeway raised on a mound of earth, thit serves as a bridge, and was fornicjiy defended by an entrenchment, of which there .^rc now no traces. It is impossible to conceivi n, except .such as belong to the kin^, or ai dedicated to their divinity Gaudma; hit niajest! having prohibited the use of brick vt stone i private buildings, from the apprehension, thai people got leave to build brick houses, they mii erect brick tortifications, dangerous to the eiirity of the state. The houses therefore are made of mats, or sheathing boards, supported bamboos or posts; but from their being loninosi of such combustible materiftls, the inhabit; are under continual dread of tire, against whji they take every precaution. The rool'sare coveaed, and at each door stands a large bambi with an iron hook at the end, U* pull downtl thatch: there is also another pole, with agratii of iron at the extremity, about three feet squw to suppress flame by pressure. Almost evi house has earthei pots, filled with water, on roof; and a particular clars of people*, wl businesa is to prevent and extinguish fires, perambulate the streets during the night. The object in Pegue that most attracts ii merits attention, is the noble edifice of Shocraad or the Golden Supreme. This extraordinary of bttildings is erccteU on a double icttm, raised upon another. The lower and gri terrace is about ten feet above the natural level the ground, forming an exact parallelogram: upper and smaller terrace is similar in shape, rises about twenty feet above the lower terrace, thirty above th^ level of the country. A side the lower terrace is one thousand three huudi and ninety-one feet long, of the upper six hi dred and eighty-four. The walls that sustaiu sides of the terrace arc in a ruinnuy state: II were formerly covered with plaster wrought ii breast, in Birman characters, ;he word thief, and Umb of the nrticie stolen, as on one was Putcliao Khoo, doth thi^. These men palrolu the streets at nigli'^ to| ontall tirn and lights after » certain bo.ir. Tlic/icl] coiMt«blcs, and arc alig tke public executloacrk VVU KMRASSY TO TllM KINGDOM OK W'A. :)(53 I jrious figures. Tfie area of the lowei* is strewed I illi 'jilily came down from Umwcrapoora to be present at the ccrunony of its el tiou. V dcpogitiom ii-'fi ff b6'h EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. tdcposithns are sent to the Maywoon, who re- prescnls Jhe King-, and the Jiulgos transmit their opinions along 'tiilh the evidence, which the INIaywoon either confirms or rrjeots as he thinks proper, and, in cases of capi:r(ij)hici^i Foaitiun of J'egue erroneousljj laid doxen in modern J\Ia}iS — Description of the Town of Rangoon —.Icconnt of the People called Carianers — Description of the Temple of Shoedugong — 2'ciw/i yf jViaindu — J\Iima-Shun-liua, the Milage of Prostitutes. 'i.'l lo COLONEL Symcs and the rest of the embassy Ici't Pegue on the 26th, and arrived fi-e next day at the village of Deesa; where, shor.ly after their arrival, the Miou-gce, or chief n rson of the village, came to pay his respects. The I'ountry about Deesa abounds in various kinds of game, particularly deer. About a mile east of the town is an extensive plain, \\here a herd of deer was soon discovered, but they were so \vat( li- f'ul and vild, says the Colone'. that I could only get near enough to (ire a r.^ndem shot from a rille, which did not take ili'ect. In endeavouring to approach them unperc»'i\e;l, I left my servants iind guide at a '-onsidcrable distHiice, The r"|)ort of the gun alarmed a drove of buifalocs: the whole troop raised their tii'ads and, instead of miming awav, seemed to ^taud on the d<;ren.-:i\e. Two came out from tlio Led, and, with their tails and heads erect, trottej towards luo, not in a straight line, but uuiLiiig lialf a circle, as if afraid to advance; but e( length they drew so near, that I expected a direct charge to he made upon me. In tliii e.vireroify the i\Iiou-gee dis- Kuered me, am! made signs to ui'*, which 1 com- prclu ruled, and slip[)ed oil my sca;!et coat, -.thidi 1 flung, togciher with my hut, in'o souu", hmg grass: the huilalo desi>teJ tVoui the pursuit, and jefurned towards the herd, quietly graziiig as he retired. This circumstance proves, that the buf- l.ilo enterfiiius the same antipathy to tin." colour of red or scailet that some vit!>er animals are known todo. The xMiou-gee, when i joined him, secm- id quite us much alarmed i was; he said that if I had sustained any injury, his head would havn paid the forfeit of the accident. In the ' thickets that bo/der on the banks of the river to the north and s(,uth of the village, tigers I'te- quenfly prowl abodt, and carry away the dogs from the villJTge, but dare not attack the buffaloes ' who appear to be almost as fierce as theinselve>: and in a forest, about twelve miles to the nortli- east, are immense herds of wild elephants, which freciuently destroy whole crops of rice and sii<,'iir. cane. Tlie next morning they left 13eesia and ar- ' rived at Rangoon. Ttie authorities on which the geography of] the city and river of Pigoi' has beea laid d> wii, though diud)tlets the best that could he procured, are nevertheless far from being accurate. IV Pegue river is called by the natives IJagoo Kioi or Pegue rivulet, to distinguish it from 3.iiiiii|), , or river. It is na\igable but a scry few niiltsto] the northward of the city of i*egue, and for this ^ it is wholly indebted to the action of the tide k has no communication with the sea, execpt hy the Rangoon river, and in the fair sei'.son, at luw water, is almost dry. There seems to lia\e bteii a mistake of this stream for the Sitang river, about fifteen miles I'ast of Pegue, which isaL;iTiit and independent body of wafer, that p.irll\ de- scribes (he course that in the maj) is given to what is called the Pegue river. Nor does the ineridiaa lueasurei.ienl oi' the city of Pegue, as i('pr)rted bj loriner travellers, at all correspond with later ob- servations, Mr. Wood, an accurate astronomer, and furuishcd with cAccllcut iustruiucnts, phuij EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. *;65 |p,nie io seventeen degrees forty minutes N. llifudf, above forty geographi'cal miles S. of the *ijj,i(,n assigned to it in the map. The difference ? Igngitiido is less than that of latitude. Mr Wood, from a mean of observations of the niincr-ion and emersion of Jupiter's sitellites, delermines Pegne to be in ninety^six degrees, I i,,veii minutes, fifteen seconds, about thirty-two jniilc? W. of i>s supposed situation. This east- utii error may liave giver, occasion to the mistsuce jofilic Sitanii; rivvr for that of Pegue. Indocd llieaiitiiori'.ii's for the geof^-raphy of this country I j[e, inmost places Jm pel lect, and in some alto- iJiirTroneous. I Inci casing trade, and consequent population, have cxtt'iuii'd tiie present town far boyoiid the lliaiilsilint fonnrriy comprehended Ilangoon, as it Iwasorigiiwllv founi't-d by Aloinpra. It stretches Ijl^iin. ihe bank of the river about a mile, and is Ipjd^ioie than a third of a mile in breadth. Tin; Itilvor miou is a square, surrounded by a Ijigh |t|9ckaik; vithin which in several places arc IfKCled wooden stages for ninsqut'tccrs to stand on Ijfjs,. of an attack. A battery ol" twelve cannon, liixiiiid iiiue-ponnders, raised on the bank, coni- iuands the river; but the guns and carriiiges are liisuc'i a wretched condition, that (Iwy could do liltle execution. C'losctothe principal wharf are Locoimnodious houses, used by the merchants L;iue\ch:iiigc, \\here they usually meet in the koolofthc morning and evening, to cer\ ants of the public, «oinmon scaven- >; iliey go under the houses, and do\ our (he li. TIic IJirma.is are also fond of dors ntun- |Chiir»lMth inf.'st the streets; the Itreed is small, pcxticuicly noisy; whenever wc walked out. the inhabitants were apprized of the approach of the English by the loud barking of these trouble- some curs. A singular description of people called Carav- ners, or Cariancrs, inhabit different parts of the country, particularly the provinces of Dalla and Bassien, several societies of whom also dwell in the districts adjacent to Ilangoon. Thcv are a simple innocent race, who speak a language dis- tinct from that of the Binn ms, and enllcrtaiii rude notions of religion. They lead a pastoral life, ami arc tl mtj^t inJustrions subjects of the staie. Their villages form a select eommnnity, from which they exclude all other sects, and never reside in a city, intermingle, or marry with strangers. They profess, and strictly observe, universal peace, not engaging in war, or taking part in contests for dominion, a system that ne- cessarily places them in a state of subjection to the ruling power of the day. Agriculture, the eare of caille, and r.^aring poultry, are almost their only occ'ipalion^. * great part of the provisions used in the country is raised by the Carianers, and they particularly e\cel in garden- ing. They have of late years been heavily taxed and oppressed by the great Birman land-holders, in cojisequ' nee of which many have withdrawn to the moimtainsof Arracan. They have traditional maxims of jurisprudc'.ce for their internal govern- nicnt, but n-c with, .t any written laws: custom with tluim constitutes the law. Some learn to speak the Birman fongiie, and a fiiw can read and write it imperfectly. They are tinu)rous, honest, mild in their manner:i, and exceedingly hospitable to strangers. The temple of Shuedugon, or Dagoung, about two miles and a half north of Rangoon, is a very grand building, although n(>t so high by twenty- live or thirty feet, as that of Shoeinadoo at Pegue. It is i.'uirh nnne ornani'iMited, atul is ascended by above a hundred stone steps, that have been suf- fered to fall into (Kcay. The situation renders Shoedagon a conspiciu)Us object at the distance- of many miles. The tee an iur piirt to render Rangoon tlie most thniri.->lii!Jt;' ica-port oi' the eastern wprld. ■>« t>.T?Hi1»' !*'•■'£/-} <;ai oil// , ;.; ! !f ■•>!( Ui:i SECTION VII. 1 ids ) . . ,».vt ' ■ir'.uti (iv) /ij.-ii ■-••i'.-iii lupfrialM/indaie nvrivesfor the Eiiglish to proceed to the Capital — Maijxvonn nf Pegue ordered ta itccompaiiijit^^flvntsnien emplnijed to catch Alligator^ and Rhinoccro.ses — '.Iir Mntixooon leaves RmsooTh and the English DeptUation prepare to follow — Dev^-ription of the Boats — Depart froni Rani^oon — Pass several' Toxmis and l^illageR-^Arrire at Peeniic-mew, or P) ome — Description of l>f,)ine— Leave Loonghee-^City of Pagahm — Temple ofShocgecgooji, — De *, uclivc Cofiflagration ^Embark nn board the rorfal li(vrge-^ Leave Pagahm — Description of a.i cient Ava — Appearance ofUmmcrapoora, the Capital — Residence ofihe British Dcputationf anu, Heception on landing. MIE month of May was now far advanced, iuiil, says the Colonel, we became a liitle Binn.i;iciit at remaining so long in a state of un- Lftainty, especially as the oflicers of government ^id not all relax in the fjormality and coldness of ■ir deportment, nor were we yet assured what |iiig>t be the nature of our reception at court. Jrorn Jliis unpleasant state of suspence we were It length af:;recably relieved by the arrival of a leder from the May woon of Pcgue to the coun- ()f R!ini;oon, acquainting them that he had [eicived the imperial mpudate to make prcpara- Ym tor our conveyance by water to the capital ; liid that it was his Majesty's farther pleasure hat lie should accompany the deputation in per- «ii, Baba-Sheen lost no time in imparting to jiielliL' iiiU'lligence, which was soon after coni- [imnioat<(l l»V an olfuiiil nv'ssage from the KaV' to hear the o'der formally announced in council. This was a ceremony I begged leave to decline; but I sent my moonshee, or Persian secretary, to attend the meeting. A visit of the deputation to Ummerapoora being now decided on by the highest authority, the Colonel applied to the Haywoon for leave to purchase suitable boats for the uNe of himself and .etinue; but an oflicer from theRaywoon informed him, that ii. was inconsistent with the usage of their government to admit of % public minister being at any ox pence for his con- veyance; and that the superiutendant of the port had received instructions to prepare as nian^y boats a.s the Colonel thought necessary. Conformably to the imperial mandate the Maywoon left Pegue, and arrived at Rangoon on the :i.)iii of May, attended by a numerous retinue. .; About this time an order came from court to iivitiiig me to llie Rboom, or public hail, ! the provincial governuicnt of Pegue, which fur- DOOIIj I » I'rc-iiliiiion in this, as in all o(hcr countries, lo. the k!ti!M::tc icMirt of female « retrluHlnc^^s ; but Iiprc il is often luinl'd 'nilh ciiV'.nniitiinft'S of peciilinr «iul iiiiniorltod kiisnv. '''.oy who follow (his course of life are not at Ikcir iiHii . |)osaJj,iMii- reqeive the earnings of their unhappy lrofc^um: Ihey arc slaves sold by troditors to a licensed Lidcr, f(ir debts more freiiuenlly contracted by oitiers than l)LiinsclU'S. Accimlln's tothelaflsoflVfjue, lie >vlio incurs " I'fcomeB • pa pr. tadicd and sold to discliari;e the obligation. Tlip wretciied- ness Into which this inhuman law plniii^es whole families is not to be described. Innocent women are often dr.iiriTcil from domestic comfort and happiness ; mkI from tli," folly or misforluue of the master of the house, in which they perhaps have no blame, are sold to tl.e Iic;ni.M'd superiu* teiulant of the Tackally, who, if the) >)os>;'vs atlraction."!, pays a hiijh jirice for them, and reinil;- rs hinis-eir" by the wages of their prostitution. Itrt'ditu f, who lujiy cliiim U>e iiis<»|vei|it debtor us bis shive, ' + The IJirmans use teak, the inost diiraMe wooil that is gc him to perform menial service until he liquidates i known, and best adapted to (he purpuses of ship-bui ill ililit; nor docs the unhappy man, always Miller in his \i\\\w jii alone, hfs immediate rcfafiyi's arc often included iiLdJond. and, when that in tho c:iso, nro liable ;o be at- Vol! II. No CXIl. . Ihli Is wood is produced in the lorr'i-. o f the Itirniaii and Pegue empires in ine.vhau^tiblo abundance. n "W-hed » '^n ^d passed the night. The course of u, I stream was neafly north and south, and about | mile wide. The next morning|hey joined i|i| Maywoon, who, with his suite, andavastconi cour^ of boats, was waiting for the arrival i the deputation. On the 3rd of June the whole flaat got underl way; and at nine o'clock passed Denoobew, Ji extea^ive town, ornamented with a lofty tenmjei resembling Shoedagon in form, but of "a siimlU size. At sun-set they stopped near the town o^ Yeoungbenzah, which town they left at dav. break the next morning. From the 3rd to tin 10th of June, they passed several towns and m1 lages, when the Maywoon expressed a dcjireJ remain three or four days at Meaydav, aiuHn and district two days journey mirth of IV.i which he holds in Jaghire by a grant fronith king. This intention was far from heiit;h an alley occupied by blacksmiths' shops, furnished with hill hooks, spike-nails, adzes, &c. A little farther on Vic saw the ruins of a .street that had been consumed by fire only two days before: from seventy to eighty houses were de.ilroycd by the conflagration. It was the Tackallr, and the suflerers were the already wretched, the miserable public problitutes. Here are a great number of religious edifices, which differ in structure from those we had seen iu the lower provinces: instead of a slender rpire rising to a great height from an expanded base, the temples of Pagahm, in general, carry up a heavy breadth to very near the top, and then come abruptly to a point, which giyp, clumsy appearance to the buildings. Mnn\ fl the most ancient temples at this place arc notsorl ' at the bottom ; a vvell arched dome support L ponderous superstructure; within, an ima>re fl Gaudmasits enshrined, four gothic doorwin^on" ! into the dome: in one of these is a luMnau'i],!"! standing erect, which the Seree told iiie\ ^1 Gaudma; and another of the same personam lying on his right side asleep, both of giganijcj stature. The divinity, however, it; rarely (n},J found in these attitudes, the posture in which ul is generally depicted, is sitting cross-leg-crd onal pedestal, adorned with representations oi'tlie ip,ff of the sacred lotus carved upon the base; tlipy hand of the image rests upon his lap, and tlid right is pendant. Passing through iho ,M;burbjJ we came to a part where the inhabilanis wtJ employed in pressing oil from the H'^miiuii seed: the grain, is put into a deep wondJ trough, in which it is pressed by an iinrigjiii timber fixed in a frame, the force is iiurcasa by a long lever, on the extremity of which anijiJ sits and guides a bullock that moves in a tircll thus turning and pressing the seed at \]r. ^jl time; the machine was .simple, and anssvcicdilij purpose eflectually. There were not less thm two hundred of those mills within a narrow comJ pass. From the circiunstance of the cattle beid in good order, we concluded that they were fej on the .seed after the oil was extracted. Tlicjan] about Pagahm scarcely yields suflicicnt vcjdal tion to nourish goats. At nine o'clock in the morning of tlio 11 July the Colonel took possession of the roT< barge with ceremonious fomiality, accoiiipaniei by the Woondock and IJaba Sheen. 'I'lie plal form, on the outside contained space for (liirtl two rowers, sixteen on each side; but on Ihisoif casion the oars were not fastened, as it wasnicaa to be drewn by war-boats: the inside wa'iiliijdej into three str.all apartments handsonulv (itfcduil the roof and sides were lined with uhifcfoltiii and the floor covered with carjiets and linniiij(| Aungwa, or Ava, once the metropolis ol i the TJirman empire, is divided into an upperad lower city, both of which are fortified: thckma which is the most extensive, I judged to bealioi four mile« in circumference; it is prutcclcdbfl wall thirty feet high, at the foot of which tit is a deep aaU broad fosse. The cunnnunicatiiij ! belwB EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. 571 ■Mweenthe Tort and the country is over a mound T?^(|, iTOSsing theditclij that supports a causc- r . ,11 embankment of earth in the inside sus- gt the wall; the upper or smaller fort, wiiich be called the citadel, and does not exceed a I ill circuit, was much stronger, and more Bpact than the lower: but neither the upper rtlie lower bad a ditch on the side of the river. tie walls are now mouldering into decay; ivy Am to the sides and hushes, suflered to grow I the bottom, undermine the foundation, and iiit already caused large chasms in the did'erent ei of the fort. Tiie materials of the houses, jiisting chiefly of wood, had, on the first order J removing, been transported to the new city of Lpierapoora: but the ground, unless where it [covered with bushes, oi' rank grass, still retains J of former buildings and streets. The lines Iftheroyal palace, of the Lotos, or grand council II, the apartments of the women, and the spot 'piijath, or imperial spire, had stood, were I out to us by our guide. Clumps of bam- x, a few plantain trees, and (all thorns, oc- ny the greater part of the area of this lately Himbiiig capital. [Numerous temples, or which the Birmans tr lay sacrilegious h-nds, were dilapidating [time. It is impossible to draw a mure striking [tute of desolation and ruin. lAmoDg the religious buildings w ithin the fort, enuned Shoegunga Praw, nownys distinguish- Iforsjze or splendour, was in foruier times held tuliuly sacred, and is still reverenced above > rest. At the present day, when an officer of |iii is about to enter on a great public trust or a commander ia appointed to the army, the Ih of allegiance is administered in this temple Ihfreat solemnity, u breach of which is con- 1 the most heinous crime that a ISirman can jguilty of, and is invariably punished by the Itrest tortures. How Shoegunga obtained this lindion I was nut able to learn. Wc were iu- nod, that a temple of much magnitude, named balhcrpoo Praw, stood a short distance to the llward of the fort, in which was a colossal preofGaudma, formed out of a solid block of bk This temple and image we had a better urtimity of viewing on our return. aving Ava in the rear, the river bends again northward, when the opposite city of ail), and the spires, the turrets, and the r«i.n. No.CXIl. lofty Piasath of Ummerapoora, create an unex- pected pleasure, and exhibit a fine contrast to the gloomy and deserted walls of Ava. Chagain, on the north side, once too the seat of imperial resi- dence, is situated partly at the foot, and partly on the side, of a ruggedi hill thi' is broken into separate eminences, on the summit of each stands a s;)i''al temple; tliese temples, rising irregularly one above another to the top of the mountain, form a beautiful assemblage of objects, the elfect of which is increased by their being carefully whitewashed and kept in repair. As we sailea near the opposite shore, the sun shone full upon the hill, and its reflected rays displayed thcscunery to the highest advantage: in addition to this, the swollen state of the river gave to the waters the semblance of a vast lake, interspersed with islands, which seemed to be immersed. They soon came to the mouth of the channeL that communicates with the lake of Tounzemahn, through which it receives its waters from the river. The situation of Ummerapoora hag already been described ; tlic southern fort is washed; during the rainy season, by the waves of the lake, and the houses of the city and sub- urbs extend along the bank as far as the extreme point of land. Across the lake, and opposite to the fort, stands the small village of Toiinzemahn, near which, in a tall grove of mango, palmyra, and cocoa-nut trees, a dwelling was prepared for the British deputation. On entering the lake, the number of boats that were moored, as in a harbour, to avoid the influence of the sweeping flood, the singularity of their construction, the height of the waters:, which threaten inundation to the whole city, and the amphitheatre of lofty hills that nearly surrounded the place, altogether presented a novel scene, exceedingly interesting to a stranger. We rowed towards the grove, whilst the greater part of the fleet went to the opposite side: on reaching the bank I perceived a war- boat belonging to the May woon of Pegue, who, I understood, was at the grove wailing our ar- rival. I was received on landing by Raba Sheen, and some inferior oiKcers; they accumpauicJ me to the house, which was situated about three hun- dred yards from the brinkof the lake, overshadow- ed by lofty trees, that completely defended it from the meridian sun. When we came to the entrance of the virando, or balcony, the May- woen of Pegue, tlie Goyeinor of Bainoo, a 1 II province ■.\\' .li.jir It'' II ,*': Ji :!il; ', 'J\. i 1^ I'M i'! XPlii u 11}; III r)72 EMBASSY TO THE KIMGDOM OF AVA. provintc bordering on Chiiin, and llicWooiidock before-mentioned, welcomed me to the ciipital. Being seated on carpets spread along the flooi, llie conversation turned on general topics, and particularly on European geography, a subject on M'bicb the Oovernor of Bamoo appcarod very desirous of information. After some time, the AVoondock, addressing himself to me, said, that liis Birman u)ajesty had been absent a few months, at acoun'lryresidence named Meengoung, where he was creeling a magnificent temple to their divinity, Gaudma, but was expected to re- turn soon to Ummcrapoora; that, in the mean time, instructions had been given to his miniiters to provide everv thing rcfpiisile for the accommo- dation of the lilnglish gentlemen, and that Baba Sheen was ctmimandcd to reside near us, in order to supply our wants, and to communicate our wihhcs; to this the Maywoon of Pegiie added, that the two inferior Screes, or provincial under secretaries, who had accompanied us from Ran- goon, were likewise directed to attend our orders, and, being persons to whom we were accustomed, would probably be more agreeable to us than en- tire strangers. These polite and hospitable attentions were re- ceived and acknowledged with real satisfaction; nor was it at all diminished by the freedom wi»h which the Woondock informed me, that it was contrary to the etiquette of the Birman court, for tt public minister from a foreign nation to go abroad before his first audience, lie therefore hoped I would not cross the lake in person, or suffer any of my people to do so, until the cere- monials were past; but as our customs differed from theirs, and the Etlropcans habituated them- selves to take exercise, I was at full liberty to walk or ride into the country of over the plains that lay between our dwelling and the hills, as far as I thought proper ; recommending to nrie, at the same time, not to go to any great distance, ns it would be considered by the common people in the light of a Jcrogation from my own con- seijuence. I thanked him for his counsel, which was delivered with many expressions of civility, and readily acquiesced iis what he assured me was an established custom. '*"•■;' ^''- ''""' J""^* . "'; ' The Usage of debarring a publfc'mitiiiier from cnlcring the capital previous to his first formal presentation, I understood, was neither recent nor uncommon; it has long been the known prac- tice of the Birman and Siamese government J Monsieur Loubere makes mention of it in hi J count of an embassy to Siam, sent from the co J of Louis tlie Fourteenth. It is founded on (hi cautious policy which governs all nations castwarJ of India in their intercourse with foreign slates The i)lace of residence appointed for the cmj bassy was a spacious house of one storv r^; J Irom the ground somewhat more than two ted and better covered than Birman liousca iisuallj arc: it consisted of two good sized rooms aiJ a large virando, or balcony; the partition and walls were made of cane mats, wiu latticed windows in the sides; the shape of thi roof was such as distinguished the houses nobles : it was altogether a comfortable habiii tion, and well adapted to the climate. M Wood had a smaller house, erected behind min, and parallel to it; and Dr. Buchanan anoty at righi angles. Small separate huts were cod structed for the guard, and for our attcntanJ the whole was surrounded by a strong bambii paling, which inclosed a court-yard. There wJ two entrances by gates, one in front oftl priiiripal house, the other backwards: ateachl these, on the outside of the paling, wasaiheJ in which a Birman guard was posted, to prntd the deputation from thieves, keep oil" the popj lace, and probably to watcii and report (iiJ movements. The building ckmominated Rhoom is (jicj fiicial hall of justice, where the members of pJ vinciul governments, and all mimicipal office! arC' accustomed to assemble for the transaction) public business. Every man of high ranicioll Birman empire is a magistrate, and has a m of this description and name contiguous to f dwelling; but always on the outside of (lied closure of his court-yard, and not surroiindnij any fence or railing, in order to manifest publicij and show that it is tlie .seat of majesty and juslij to vvhici) all mankind may have free access, imperial mandate to a governor, or an order frj a governor to a petty miougee, or a chief oj small to-.:!i or district, is invariably (>p(;d« read aloud in this sanctified hall. The ikd government,- in the administration of m affairs, suffers no such thing as jii ivacvori cealment. The Rhoom is likewise an appcndj of dignity, as it denotes him to wl)ose hub it is anne.Kcd to be a person of rank aiui col .. quel KMHASSY TO THE KINGDOM OK Wa. 573 Lucnce a building of iliis sort was erected within I f«* yards of the front pale of the inclosure to lebiiilil'"g belonging to the embassy. For two days after our landing, the boatmen nd servants were employed in transporting our r^-jge from the boats to the house, and our (ipc was chiefly taken up in arranging the do- mestic economy of our new residence, in which I CQund a liberal provision of all such necessaries lijllie natives themselves require: my rooms were I fpjted, but the chairs, table, &c. were my own. iRice, gee (clarified butter), fire-wood, and pots Ifor dressing victuals, were supplied to our people [jnabundancfl*. The delinquent refugees, of whom mention has llieenmadeas having been surrendered, by order lof the Governor-General, to Ihc justice of their Icountry, had reached Ummcropoora some weeks Ijrevious to the arrival of the doputatioM. The iBitman guard that escorted them had brought a Ikttcr directed to Colonel Symcs from Cfli>.hu(l in tlie |{roH', to afford the smaller ingredients of cuokury, such as kmns, fipici's, s^lt, tamarinds, iic. Iti'ru also toliaoco limlbLTlio U'af were sold ; and to enable the attendants to |piirc!ia!>c such artlrlcs, (>nc hundred lackal, aboUt twelre Ipuuiuls sterling, were distribnted araongtt them.: this was ■jiactofmunificcncuMrhicli ^he C^oloqel with great ditlicnUy laToidril thtt obligation of, in his oM[n person : but no re- liionstrance could prevail on the Itirnian ollieer to dispense |«ilh It in the in^rancc of tho domestic. f Caiilion and policy, fays the. Cttlonel, had, perhaps, lis grrat n sliara, with the n» as supmtitiou, in tliiis rclanling (he ceremony c .' ojir im 'odu^tion : it was tp th^nii iBurcliucident ; t|iey HO<'!de.'irr, ii w, ■' eforc any part of the snb- Ijccls came into formal discnssinn. They might probably piiMish to liavi- an opporluniiy to judge of our national FliiracliT, and to dutctmine, from our condnct, i'l what From this he entirrly dissented, as the cause of complaint was with him, and confidence hud iii some measure been violated by their breaking the seal. The proposition perhaps did not origiuutu from any authority, as it was immediately given up, and the letter in a silk wrapper, wai furiually presented to him on a tray, by the oflicer who conveyed it across the lake. In a few days the return of the king was announced by the dis- charge of rockets, and by the giHieral bustle that so important an event caused among all classes of people. The period of the arrival of the embassy oc- curred at a juncture that supplied the liirman court with a plausible excuse for postponing the consideration of public business, and delaying the formal reception of 4he do))utatiou as well as the delivery of the letter from the (toveruor- General to the King. It happened, that in the ensuing month there was to be an eclipse of the moon, an operation of nature which they ascribe to the interference of a malignant demon. On such an occasion, affairs of slate, and all im- portanl inatfers of business, that will admit of procrastination, are ])ut oft' to the following month. Tiie astrologers were assembled to con- sult on the first fortunate day after the lapse of that inauspicious moon, when they discovered that the .seventeenth of the moon Touzclien, cor-r responding with the 30tli of August, was. the earliest that would occur, and that day was ac- cordingly appointed for the public reception of the English embassy f. Amongst other regulations of this punctilioufi court the Colonel was given to understand, that manner to regulate their own ; if such were the motiTcs, they were con.sistent with that sagacity which I found in. variably displayed by the Birman government in all its re- solutions and acts of a public nature. Hut the prevailing characteristic of the Birman court if prido ; like the sove- reign pf China, his Majesty of Ava. acknowledges no equal ; indeed, it is the lived principle of ajl nations eastward of Bengal, to consider foreign ministers as suppliants come to solicit protection, not as representatives who may demand ♦edtpss; rather as vassals to render homage, than as per- sons vo»tcd with authority to treat on equal terms. Of thi.s system I was early apprized, and fcFt no disappointment at hearing of a general rumour current nraong the higher ranks of nirnian..<, that a dejibty had arrived from the I'jnglish government, boarins tribute for their king. Reports of thii^ nature were no otherwise regarded, than as an admo- nilion to regulate my actions with scrupulous circumspec. tion. it hi' m i mm -■^ mm *>. ,0 .. ^'^.-'^^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ^*^ 1^ ^ ill 1.8 1.25 1.4 ||.6 ■• 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation ?:;\VE«T MAI 4 STREET WEBS.^'.N.Y, 14580 (716) 872-4503 . o^ ^t4 tMftASSY TO THR KINGDOM OF AVA. it was not custbmai'y for (he King to receive any letter in a formal manner without being pre- viously apprized of its contents. This created some difficulty in respect to the letter from the Governor General, which was at length sur- luounted by an agreement on my part to admit of a copy being made in my presence; but it was stipulated by thtem, that it should be transcribed in the rhoom adjacent to my house, and not in my private residence. In this proposal I ac- qUiesitted; aiid accordingly a formal deputation consisting of seven or eight officers of state, was directed to pri)cced to the rhooui, where they ^ere to open the letter, and see it properly transcribed; these personages canie with much parade, apparelled in their robes of ceremony; on landing, they walked* directly to the rhoom, and, having taken their seats, sent a Terrezoyee, or inferior "officer, along with Baba Sheen, to re- quest the Colonel would come, and bring him the Governor General's letter. I obeyed this suni- itiona, accompanied by the other gentlemen and hid usual attendants. On entering the rhoom he was civilly desired, as the occaaiua was a solemn one, to mak^ obeisance towards the piasetb, or kpltt of the foyal palace, which was more than fviro teties distant, • ceremony that he complied ^ith, by ^a.jin^ his fight hand to my head ftnd making a slight inclination of his body, after the taianiier of the Mohammedan Salaam. Being seated he delivered the letter, which was written in English and ifi Persian, to the Woondock, or superior officer; it was immediately opened ^y a kecretai'y : and an Armenian interpreter, named iftrckatee^, Who spoke «nd wrote fingliah fluently, was ordered to make a copy in English, W'hittt a -!l\f ussuhnan moohshee made another in Persian. When the writing was finished, the Colonel deli>rered a paper, which be desired might be laid be, power to visit bid in person; but that his two colleagues woul^ wait OH him whenever he shot|ld be at leisure I receive them. The Colotiel returned his ac-j knowledgmentSi and apj)ointed the foUowin day*. The two junior "memoibers of the CliiiKse putation came at the appoitlted hour, accompt-i nied by seven or eight attendants. There is m peraonage on earth so solemn and cercnonioui i ii ChihCMi officer y prbfoond nil^ifCe, udlets; t^hiefi occasion rtn-j ders it necessary to exer<;ise the faculty of speeciiJ a^i^BtsSHSiKi a high dt^rtoV tfibcutM all diplMAdtie fWti!liMs,>tMii°R <» iscly gnrdiii agaidst anjr lotp^Utiieitt Which a caktMiltyifiight throw intf way <^f aejfociation. wliid f:MBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. 57« liich is always slow* mon^toaous, and dull; (0 gentlemen, in the familiarity of private life, Idoo depart from their gravity, or relax into a ijle. On entering a room where there is com- igf, rood breeding is evinced by a Modest but tftiiiacious refusal to sit down till the master of je bouse is iirst seated, which would be an equal jiation of decorum on his part*. They were dj fond of cherry brandy ; they tasted our tea, i, before they departed, politely presented me jsome fans, two or three pieces of silk, two [boxes of tea, and three bottles of shoucbou, [rery dery spirit distilled from rice, of which t Chinese are extremely fond. I returned the iitonthe following day, and was received with much pomp and ostentation a» circumstances lould admit' in the front of the house a silk en- i waved, on which was embroidered the im- tial dragon of China, and at their gate were ttpeaded whips and chains, importing the irer which the owner possessed to inflict cor- i! punisfament. Tbs two Junior members 1 me at the threshold of their habitation, ilogized for the u;iavoidable absence of the Lief personage, and introduced uic into a hall, e walls of which were concealed by screens uf silk, and the chairs covered with loose pieces of sattin; this interview was renderedmoreinteresting than the former, b^ a spontaneous question oa the part of the senior Chinese, to know whether I bad heard of the safe arrival of Lord Macart- ney in England. His lordship having left China only the preceding year, it was not possible to have bad accounts of his reaching England, and the issue of his lordship's negotiations was at that time wholly unknown. They treated us with tea and sweetmeats, and smoked their long pipes with unrelated solemnity. I repaid their civilities by giving them some broad-cloth and brandy, and took my leave. The interval that elapsed between the time of our arrival at Ummerapoora, and of our formal introduction at court, afforded us leisure to ac- quire some insight into the customs, religious tenets, and moral economy of the Birnian nation. We shall therefore proceed to give a more general account of the country, and endeavour to illus- trate the character of this people from their man- ners, and the state of society ; from the progress which the arts had made; and from the usages of the inhabitants in common life, i Xi ■ i',> : ^t' SECTION VIII. Mm qf the liirmatis^ Their La-ws — Jurisdiction of the MetropoIitt-^La-wj/ers — The Jioijal \Estahlishment — Council of State — Honours not Hereditary — Insignia of Rank — Dress-— BC' ImUmce to the Chinese — Marriages — Funerals — Population — Revenues. ^HE Birmans are Hindoos; not votaries of Brahma, but sectaries of Boodh, which a is admitted by Hindoos of all descriptions ibethe ninth Avatar f, or descent of the deity capacity of preserver. He reformed the I* This custom sometimes prodnrcs a rery ludicrous scene, W the guests arc not unfrcqucntly obliged to be dragged Ithcii chairs, and placed in them almost by compulsion. neutering the door, they both made an abrupt stop, and tsistidall solicitation to advance to chairs, that had been npared for them until the Colonel should first be seated: k this dilemma ho immediately seized on the foremost chair, mi Dr. Buchanan granpled with the second : thus we "" lixcd them in their scats, both parties, during the Iglc, repeating Chin Chio, Chia Chin, the Chinese term of ^ititioo. The conversation was not at all lively or in> toiog; for thougb, lays the Colonel, I sat between I Vol. II. No. CXII. doctrines contained ini the Yedas, and severely censured the sacrifice of cattle, or depriving any being of life ; he is called the author of happiness: his place of residence was discovered at Gaya in in Bengal, by the illustrious AmaraJ;, renowned them, our words li^d to make a wide circuit before they reached each other's comprehension. I spoke in the lan- guage uf Hindostan to a Mussulman who understood liir- man, he delivered it to a Birman who spoke Chinese, the Birman gave it to the tirst otTicial domestic, who repeated it to his master in the Chinese tongue. f Sir William Jones on the Gods of Greece, Italy, and India. ■^ Sec the translation of a Shanscrit inscription on a stone found in the tomnle of Boodh, at Gaya, by Mr. Wilkins. Asiat. Research, t ol. I. 71 amongst VI i.S' bl8 EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. amongst men, " who caused an image of the su- preme Boodh to be made, and he worshipped it; reverence be unto thee in the form of Boodh; reverence be unto thee, Lori of the earth; reverence be unto thee, an incarnation of the deity ; and, eternal one, reverence be unto thee, O God, in the form of Mercy." Gotma, or Goutum, according to the Hindoos of India, or Gaudma, among the inhabitants of the more eastern parts, is said* to have been a philosopher, and is by the Birmans believed td have flourished above two thousand three hun- dred t years ago : he taught, in the Indian schools, the heterodox religion and philosophy of Boodh. The image that represents Boodh is called Gaud- ma, or Goutum, which is now a commonly re- ceived appellation of Boodh himself: this image is the primary object of worship in all countries situated between Bengal and China. The secta- ries of Baodh contend with those of Brahma for the honour of antiquity, and are certainly far more numerous. The Cingaleze in Ceylon are Boodhists of the purest source, and the Rirnians acknowledge to have originally received their re- ligion from that island. It was brought, say the Rhahaans, first from Zehoo (Ceylon) to Arraca^, and thence was introduced into Ava, and probably into China; for the Birmans assert with confidence that the Chinese are Boodhists. Whatever maybe the antiquity of the worship of Boodh; its reception is very widely extended. The most authentic writer ;{: on the eastern penin- sula calls the image of Gaudma, as worshipped by the Siamese, $omona-codom$. The Birmans believe in the Metempsychosis, and that after having undergone a certain num- ber of transmigrations, their souls will at last * Sir William Jones on the Gods of Greece, Italy, and India. ■I- Tliis agrees with the account of the Siamese canputa. tion given by Kaempfer. ^ Loiibere. ^ Being unacquainted with the language of Siam, which, from so short a residence as four months, it was impossible he could have acquired, ho confounds two distinct words Somona, and Codom, signifying Codum, or Gaudma, in his incarnate state; the dilTercnrc between the letters C and G may easily hare arisen from the mndo of pronunciation in diiferent countries ; even in the BIrmnn manner of «tter- ing the word, the distinction between these letters is r^ot very clear. The Boodh of the Indians and the Birmans, is pronounced by the Siamese Puoth, or Pood; by the vulgar, 3 either bo received into their Olympus on th mountain Meru ||, or be sent to suffer torm m in a place of divine punishments. Mercy ty hold to be the first attribute of the divinitJ " Reverence be to thee, O God, in the form Mercy!" and they worship God bj extendi! mercy unto all his creatures. The laws of the Birmans, like their religi^ are Hindoo; in fact, there is no separating thel laws from their religion: divine authorHy J vealed to Menu the sacred principles iuahu] dred thousand si ocas, or verses; Menu promu gated the code; numerous commentaries Menu were composed by the Munis, or m philosophers, whose treatises constitute t| Dherma Sastra, or body of law. The Birmai ^nerally call their code Derma Sath, or Sasttt it is one among the many commentaries on Meni The laws, as well as the religion of the Birmai found their way in^o the Ava country from aI racan, and came originally from Cej^lon. TM Birnian system of jurisprudence is replete wii sound morality, and is distinguished above i other Hindoo commentary for perspictiitj u, good sense; it ptovides specifically for alJ every species of crime that can be committed, aij adds a copious chapter of precedents and i cisions to guide the inexperienced in tt where there is doubt and difficulty. Trial ordeal and imprecation are the only absurd p^ sages in the book; but on the subject of woom it is, to an European, offensively indecent: lij the immortal Menu, it tells the prince andtj magistrate their duty, in language austere, mai and energetic; and the exhortation at the do is at once noble and pious**. Laws, thus dictated by religion, areingeneri ^ conscientiott Poo ; which, withont any violence to probabiiltjr, , be converted hy the Chinese into Foe. M. Gcntii asict that the Chinese admit, by their own accounts, that fJ their object of worship, was originally brought from Igfl II Meru properly denotes the pole, and, according tali learned Captain Wilford, it is the celestial north riole j the Hindoos, round which they place the garden of In and describe it as the seat of delights. ** We select the following passages as a specinea: *' i \ country may bo said to resemble milk, in vhidii pression is like to water; when water is mingled wlthiii| its sweetness hnipediately vanishes: in the same mannera pression destroys a fair and fionrishing country, thetoi Surkaib will only inhabit the clearest stream; soaprii can never prosper in a liistratfled empire. By drinU EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. 577 lODSclentiously administered. The criminal Juris- orudence of the Birmans i> lenient in particular Le«, but rigorous in others; whoever is found jity of an undue assumption of pbwer, 6t of crime that indicates a treasonable intent^ is rst ,gy crime tuai indicates a treasonable intent, is junislied by the severest tortures. The ni LiDinission of theft does not incur the penalty of death, unless the amount stolen be above eight hundred kiat^ or tackal, about a hundred pounds; or attended with circumstances of atrocity, such B murder or mutilation. In the former case, ilitculprit has around mark im^irihted on each cheek by gunpowder and punctuation, and on ii! breast the word thief, with the ai'ticle stolen; W the second offence he is deprived of an arm; liut the third inevitably produces capital punish-i gent: decapitation is the mode by which crimi- iilssiiflfer, in the performance of which the Bir- [manevecr oners are e.itceedirigly skilful. The city of Ummerapoora is divided into four _itinc' subordinate jurisdictions, in each of jlhich a May woon presides. This officer, who, the provinces, is a viceroy, in the metropolis loibles a mayor, and holds a civil and criminal lurt of justice; in capital cases he transmits the ifidence in writing, with hia opinion, to the lire milk (he body (s strongthcned and the palate is grati. d; bat when miogled with water, pleasure no lunger ifi ^gd, and the springs of life gradually decline. "Awlie prince resembles a sharp sword, which at a ■lleitroke cuts through a pillar with such keenness that tfabricstill remains nnshaken; witii equal keenness his xrnmcnt will penetrate adTice. . . " A wise prince is dear to his people, as the physician litolhcuck nan ; as light to those that are in darkness ; I gneipected sight to the eyes of the blind; as is the full ^wnona wintry night; and milk to (he infiintfrom the itt of its mother." The commentator then proceeds to denounce tremendous jnrnts against an oppressive prince and corrupt judge; eialter is thus curiously menaced: , I ** The punishment of his crimes, who judges iniquitabtly, ddtcides falsely, shall be greater than though ho h.od sUiu ItelhoiiMBd women, one hundred priests, or one thousand Tlie book concludes as follows : .. I <* Thu3 hare the leat-ned spoketi, and tHu^ hkie ^h^ 'wise m^l, that litifjatiou may ecaSe among raen^ And cenitetu b be banished the land : and let all magistrate! aod jud^ found the laws as they are herein, written ; and to the test of thoir understanding, and according to the dictates [their conscience, |)roauiincu judgmrnt agi'ecably tti the jiior of this book : let the welfare of their oonnti'y, arid benefit of their f^llow^craaturcs, be thMiri continual kdy, and the sole object of their attention: l^^t them oter ikadful of the suprctne dignity of the itoulah* and the Lotoo, or grand chamber of consultation, where the council of state assembles; the council after close examination into the documents, reports upon them to the King, who either pardons the 6ffendet, or orders execution of the sentence : the Maywoon is obliged to attend in person, and see the punishment carried into effect. Civil snits may be transferred from tbe courts of the Maywoons to the Lotoo; this removal, howeVer, is attended with a heavy ex pence. There are regular established lawyers, who con- duct causesi and plead; eight only are licensed to plead til the Lotoo: they are called Ameen- dozaan: the usual fee is five tackal, equal to sixteen shillings; but the government has large profits on all suits that are brought into court. There is no country of the East in which the rbyal establishment is arranged with more minut6 attention than in the Bit-inan court ; it is splendid without being wastefiil, and numerous without confusion; the most distinguished members ar^ the Sovereign, his principal queen, entitled Nan- . doh Praw; the Engy Teekien, or prince royal; the crown descending to the male heirs in a direct line. Next in rank to the princes of the blood royal, Bramins, and pay them that revcrenee which is due to their sacred characters : let them obserre becoming respect towards all men, and they shall shield the weak from oppression, support the helpless, and, in particular cases, mitigate the severity of arenging justice. " It shall be the duty of a prince, and the nu^istratea of a proTince, wisely to regulate the internal police of the empire, to assist and befriend the peasants, merchants, farmers, and those who follow trades, that they may dailj increase in Worldly wealth and happiness ; they shall pro. mote all works of charity, encourage the opulent to relieT* the poor, and liberally contribute to pioui and laudable purposes and whatsoever good works shall be p.-om«tfd by their inBuehce and example, whatsoever shall be given in charity, and whatsoever benefit shall accrue to mankind from their endeavours, it shall all bo preserved in the records of heaven, oncsixth part of which, though the deeds bs the deeds of others, yet shall it be ascribed unto them ; and at the last day, :at the solemn and awful hour of jiidgmen<^ the! recording spirit shall produce them, inscribed on the adamantine tablet of human actions. But, on the other hand, if the prosperity of the nation be 'leglectcd, if justice be Buffered , to lie dormant) if tumults a'.r and robberies are committed, if rapine andf foul assassination stalk along tbe plains, all crimes that shall be thus perpetrated through their retnissness, ohe sixth part shall bu brought to this ae* coant, arid fell with weighty vengeance on their hoads; tha dreadlul dprisefluenccs of vyhich surpass'the power of tougiiW to uttcf^ or q( P«" '** "'P""^'*' , ;! * Jrracun namtfot Rhahain. m ' ■ i'"'t i I ' m 'tt ;'!.:■ m* . h rut L4') ■ 578 t;mi)assy to the kingdom of ava. are the Woongees, or chief ministers of state. These form the great ruling council of the nation; they sit in the Lotoo> or imperial hall of con- sultation, every day, except on the Birman sab- bath, from twelve till three or four o'clock, or later, as there happens to be business; they issue mandates to the Maywoons, or viceroys of the ditlerent provinces; they controul every depart- ment of the state, and, iu fact, govern the em- pire, subject always to the pleasure of the King, whose will is absolute, and power undefined. To {tssist in the administration q( affairs, four officers, called Woondocks, arc associated with the Woongees, but of far inferior authority; they sit in the Lotoo in a deliberative capacity, having no vote: they give their opinions, and may record th^ir dissent from any measure that is proposed; but the Woongees decide: the Woon- docks, however, are frequently employed to execute busiaess of great public importance. Four Attawoons, or ministers of the interior, , possess a great degree of influence that sometimes counteracts with success the views and wishes of the Woongees; these the King selects to be his privy counsellors, from their talents, and th$ opinion he entertains of their integrity; they have access to him at all times; a privilege which the principal Woongee does not enjoy. There are four chief secretaries, called Seree-dogecs, and have numerous writers or inferior Serees under them. Four Nachaangees sit.in the Lotoo, take notes, and report whatever is transacted. Four Sandohgaans regulate all ceremonials, in- trodiicc strangers of rank into the royal presence, and are the bearers of messages from the council of state to the king. There are nine Sandozains, or readers, whose business it is to read all official writings,, petitions, ^c. Every document, in which the public is concerned, or that is brought before the council in the Lotoo is read aloud. The four Maywoons are restricted to the ma- gisterial superintendance oftheir respective quar- ters of the city ; they have nothing farther to do with the Lotoo, than to obey the commands they receive from thence. The Asiaywoon, or pay- master-general, is also an o6Scer of high im- portance; the place is generally held by one of the Woongees, who is called Assay Woongee. There are several other officers of distinction, who bear no ostensible share in th« administration of public affairs; such as the D^yWoM}, Or king's armour-bearer, the Cliainceewoon, or] master of , the elephants ; also the Woons of th queen's houseliold, and that of the prime roval^ Each of %hp juniojr princes has a distinct esui blishment.. , ]ln the Birman government there are no heredi- tary dignities or employments; all honours aiidl offices on the demise of the possessor, revert tol the crown. The tsaloe^ or cluiin, is the badeJ of the order of nobility, of which there are di3 ferent degrees, distinguished by the number ofl strings or sniiall chains that compose the urniJ ment; these strings are fastened by bosses nherj they unite ; three of open chain work is the lovvetB rank; three of neatly twisted wire is the next] then of six, of nine, and of twelve: no subject ij ever honoured with a higher degree than twelve] the king alone wears twenty-four. Almost every article of use, as well as orna-1 ment, particularly in their dress, indicates M rank of the owner ; the shape of the bectle-boij which is carried by an attendant after a BirmaJ of distinction wherever be goes, his ear-rin? cap of ceremony, bofse furniture, even themetj of which, his spitting-pot and drinking-cup made ( which if gold denote him to be a mane high consideration), all are indicative of tb gradations of society; and woe be unto him thai assumes the insignia of a degree which is notbij legitimate right ! The court dress of the Birman nobility is ver| becoming ; it consists of a long robe, either i flowered sattin or velvet, reaching to th ankles, with an open collar and loose sleevejj over this there i^ c scarf, or flowing mantle, tb/ hangs fromi the shoulder; and on their head! they wear high caps made of velvet, either plaj or of silk eAibroidercd with flowers of ^old, a cording to the rank of the wearer. Ear-rim are a part of male dress ; persons of conditioa i tubes of gold of about three inches long, thick as ft large quill, which expands at cue eoj like the mouth of a speaking trumpet; othei wear a heavy mass of gold beaten into a plalj and rolled up; this lump of metal forms alarg orifice in the lobe of the ear, and drags it do« by the weight to the extent sometimes oft* inches. The women likewise have their (" guisbiog paraphernalia : their hair is tied iij bunch at the top of the head, and bound roin tvitb a filletj the embroidery and ornainentit ■ ' ' whld EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. S7i) *icli express \M&ir>re3}^&tiivo ranks; a short shift ,jl,cs to the pil «f theihtomach, 19^ drawn tight (,ji,(rH, »pd:8iipport»lhn Ixreasfs; «»ver that is Ijose jacket wjlli dose sleeves ; round their List llicy roll a l()n«5 piece of silk, or cloth, liich reaching tlieir feet,, and sometimes trailing i|,g'(rrflun(), encircles them twice, and is then Ad i>>- ^Vhen women of condition go iroad, tliey put on a silk* sash, resembling a ^2 gliawl, which crosses theif bosom, and is Irown over their shoulders, gracefully flowing leach «iil«- T'*® lowest class of females often Lf only a single garment, .« the form of a Li, which, wrapped round the body, and Ifkcd i» »nicf ♦'■•-' "'"'"' crosses their breasts, J it scarcely eoncfals, and descends to their Lilej; thus, when they walk, the bottom of the loth where it overlaps, is necessarily such as the Seredaw, or chief ecclesiastic of a province, a Maywoon, s Woongee, or a member of the royal family, are embalmed, and their remains preserved six weeks or two months after decease, before they are committed to the funeral pile: during this period the body is laid in state in some kioum or religious building; but at the capital it is placed in a sacred saloon, beautifully cmiaKQ«« with gilding, and exclusively appropriated fc that sacred purpose. Honey is the principal ja gredient made use of to preserve the body fron putrefaction. Of the population of the Birman dominio it may he estimated that it amounts to ahuut foud teen millions four hundred thousand persool Pew of the inhabitants live in solitary liabitatiomJ they mostly form themselves into srnii|| sociHiiJ and their (dwellings thus collected cotnnnse theil Ruas, or villages; if therefore, we reckon tl J numbers, including Arraran, at seventeen miy linns, the calculation may not be widely roneous. Although it seems difficult, and perhaps jn possible, under such a system, to ascertain, any standard currency, the amount of thernv^ revenue, yet the riches which the Birman monar^ is said to possess are immense, a supposition tb may readily be admitted when it is considen that a very small share of what enters his e| chequer returns into circulation. The hoardii of money is a favourite maxim of oriental sti policy ; an eastern potentate cannot be brou to comprehend that the diffusion of prop among his subjects is a surer source of wealth j himself, and security to his throne, than possession of Lydian treasures, locked up vaults, and concealed in secret recesses, contrivij by sordid avarice and foolish cunning. SECTION IX. MUitary EstablishmerU — InfatUrtf — Cassay Cavalry— Artfjicers — War-Boait — Gunpo-wder k knovtn — Weapons — Food^Climate — S^il — Produce — Minerals — Precious Stones — Commerce- Currency — Weights — Measures — Character of the Natives — Beggars unkTiown—Aniinalt- Division of Time— Music — Language — Extent of the Empire — Bivers. THE Birmans may be termed a nation of soldiers, every man in the kingdom being liable to be called upon for his military services ; and war is deemed toe most honourable occupa- tion: the regular military establishment of the Birmans is, nevertheless, very inconsiderable; not exceeding the numbers of which the royal guards is composed, and such as are necessary to preserve the police of the capital. When an arfoy is to be raised^ a mandate iteues fi'om the golden palace, to all viceroys of provinces, i miougees of districts, requiring a certain numbl of men to be at a general rendezvous on aai pointed day, under the command sometimnj the viceroy himself, but oflener that of aninferi officer : the levy is proportioned to the populj tion of the district, estimated from the nuolif of registered houses that it contains, provincial court determines the burthen whiij each house is to bear; commonly everj EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. m mtt, 0t 'o**' tiouKt are to furnish among them Imm recruit, or to pay three hundred tackal in L^v, ( about forty or forty-five pounds ) . Tli is litcruit ii furnished with arms, ammunition, and licertsin daily allowance of grain from govern- lirnt, but is not entitled to pay. The families lifthe»e conscripts are relatned in the districts Ifbich they inhabit, as hostages for the good liooduct of their relation. In case of desertion lor treachery, the innocent wife, children, and lurfiits of the guilty person, are dragged to Vtcution without the least remorse or pity ; even «wardice subjects the family of the delinquent tctuital punishment*. lofsotry and cavalry compose the regular urdiof the king: the former are armed with ittikettand sabres: the latter are provided with I spear seven or eieht feet long, which they ;e with great dexterity, seldom reouiring iiJDg use of any other weapon. Tne in- Irj are not uniformly clothed : seven hundred Konitant duty within the precincts, and at the nertl gates of the palace. On the day of my bile reception, says Colonel Symea, I saw Nit two thousand, and have no doubt that all e troops in the city were paraded on that occa- 0. All the troopers in the king's service are itjveiof Cassay, who are much better horsemen ID the Birmans. They ride, like all orientals, ^ilb short stirrups and a loose rein. The horses ; Ava are small, but very hardy and active. Wrary to the practice of other eastern countries, ity castrate their horses, and are thus enabled imaiatain them with little trouble and expence, ill can also turn a nupiber of them loose in a eld together, without any risk of their injuring K another. Horses are frequently exported in nber ships to Madras, and other parts of the it, where tbe^ are disposed of to considerable liantage. ,,|, iTlie government of Ava is extremely attentive Ifruvide, in times of peace, for the coniingen- p of war; the royal magazines, I was told, psthe Colonel, could furnish twenty thousand lelocks, which, if they resembled the specimen's |iaw, cannot be very formidable; these have |ea iuported, at different periods, into the UDtry, by ships trading to Rangoon and other ' This bnrbarous law, ivhlch is rigorously enforced, hthire ft powerful effect In securing the allegiance of the jops, aod of iuipelling them to rigorous exertion ; and it parts of the empire, and are either of French manufacture, or tondenined muskets from the Ens^lish tirsenals in India. The Birmans aie very fond of their arms, of which they take great care; their gunsmiths, who are all natives of Cassuy, (cce;) tlioai in repair ; but they arc in general so bud ns to he out of the power of art to render thcni serviceable. I saw a lolcrahlv good fowling piece which they said was entirely the work of a Cassay artificer; this however, was allowed to be an extrnnrdiiiary etfort of ^-pnius: the person who shewed it to me, presented me, at the same time, with a bamboo which threw out a short spear of iron by means of a spring; ik was executed by the maker of the gun, and seem- ed to be formed after a model of an English walking stick, that contained a concealed spike; the imitation evinced much ingenuity, although the workmanship was coarse, and the iron badly polished. By far the most respectable part of the Birman military force is their establishment of war-boats. Every town of note, in the vicinity of the river* is obliged to furnish a certain number of men, and one or more boats, in proportion to the mag- nitude of the place. The king can command, at a very short notice, five hundred of these vessels: they are constructed out of the solid trunk of the teak tree, which is'excavated partly by fire, and partly by cutting; the largest are from eighty to one hundred feet long, but the breadth seldom exceeds eight feet, and even this space is pro- duced by artificially extending the sides after the trunk has been hollowed. They carry from fifty to sixty rowers, who use short oars that work on a spindle; the prow is solid, and has a flat sur- face, on which, when the}' go to war, a piece of ordnance is mounted, a six, a nine, or even a twelve pounder; the gun carriage is secured by lashings to strong bolts on each side, and swivels are frequently fixed on the curvature of the stem. Each rower is provided with a sword and a lance, which are placed by his side whiht he plies the oars. Besides the boatmen, there are usually thirty soldiers on board, who are armed with muskets : thus prepared, they go in fleets to meet the foe, and when in sight, draw up in a is {lerhaps, the only sure mode of inciting to enterprises di danger men who are not actuated by any innate sense of honour, and who do not feel any nstionai pride. line. ■♦ ^illll »trti .•i..s 582 EMBASSY TO TIIK KINGDOM OF AVA. n line, presenting their prows to the enemy. Thrir ttttuck i^ oxtrcmcly.inipetf /Us; they ad- vaiic.c Nyith grciit rapidity, and sing a war-song, at oncv to uucourugu their people, datint their udvcrsaricM, and rcgHljite tlie strokes of their Oiirs; they generally endeavour to (grapple, and when that is effected, the action becomes very severe, as these people are endued witii great courage, strength, and activity. In times of peace, they are fond of exercising in their boats, and tliey display great dexterity ui the manage- ment of them. The vessels being low in the water, their rreatcst danger is that of being run down by a larger bout striking on their broadside, ii misfortune which the steersman is taught to dread, and to avoid, above all others. It is surprising to see the facility with which they steer, and elude each other ni their mock com- bats. The rowers are also practised to row backwards and impel the vessel with the stern foremost: this is the mode of ifctreat, by means uf which the artillery sjlill boars upon their op- Souent. The largeut of the war-boats do not raw more than three feet water. When a per- son of rank is on board, there is a sort of moving tilt orcanon^^ tor his particular accommodation, placed sottii in the centre, and sometimes on the prow. j. ides of the boat arc cither gilt as fur as the water's edge, or ])lain, according to the rank of the person it carries. Gilded boats arc only permitted to the princes of the blood, or to persons holding the highest stations, such as a Maywoon of a province, or a ministvr of state. It is not improbable that the use of gunpowder >vas known in India before its effects were dis- covered in the'west; yet it dbps not appear, tliat the natives of Ava applied it to the purpose of musketry till the Europeans instructed them in the art. According to Indian accounts, cannon were fabricated, in the east long before the ara of European conquest; their artillery, however, 'was not capable of being transported with fa- cility, or at all used in the field : they were made of iron bars beaten into a cylindrical form, rudely put together, but of great strength, and enormous weight, from which, when raised on a rampart or tower, they threw huge stones to annoy the enemy. The musket was first introduced into Pegue and Ava by the Portugueze, and is an im- plement of war which the natives unwisely prefer \arfXif to their own native weapons^ the »pcar.and sabr J n partiality that is highly tir'cjudiciai to ihemi selvcH. for nolhirig can'bft Ics^ formidable t||,j| such tire arms as they possess, rtr have thcwcan of proeirring. The pi'oper Indigenous weapon of the ciMintry are the spear, the javrlin, nhicji is thrown from the hand, the cross-bow, nndthi sabre; the hitter is used by the Birmans not nnlj as an impU'iment of War, but is likewise ann|ie| to various purposes as an iilstrumcnt of maniial labour: with this the peasaht fells trees, sjiacpi timbers, c'uts bamboos, or defends himself against an enemy, and wild beasts: he never travrk without it, and generally, when on a journev) carries a shield on his left arm. They cncumbrf themselves with less baggage than perhaps anJ other peb|)le; and are satisHdd with a stantl portion of the hardest fare. In their food, the Birmans, in comparisoJ with tire Indians, are gross and nncleanli^. Although their religion forbids the slaughter oh animals in general, yet th^y npply the inttrl diction only to those that are domesticated: i|| game is eagerly sought after, and in nmny placi it is publicly sold: reptiles also, «uch as lizard^ guanas, and snakes, constitute a part of the sub sistence of the lower classes. They are extreratJ fond of vegetables; but at tlibafe places when garden' greens are not to bfe procuired, they ^ wild sdrrel, and sothetimes 'substitute the tendej leaves oif' trees; these, boiled with rice, au moistened with a little oil, or .seasoned witi gnupce, or pickled sprat, coroi)ose a meal for] Rirntun peasant or bontman. The higher rankij however, live more delicately, although tiu fare is not very ^unfiptutfus. The climate of every part of the Birman m pirc bears testimony to its salubrity, by the bet possible criterion, the appearance and vigour i the natives. The seasons are regular, and i extremes of heat and cold are seldom expericncei at least, the duration of ihat intense heat whicj im lined itltely precedes the, commencement oft rainy season is so .short, that it incommodes I for a Very little time. During our residence i the country, we lost only one man by diseai another niet ah accidental death, for in wanderinj through the woods he becaniie the prey of a tij The soil of' the sou^herti provinces ofi Birman empire is remarkably fertile, and pnl duces as luxuriant crops of rice as arc to be foui EMBASSY TO THK KINGDOM OK AVA. 583 III the finest p«r(s of Bengal. Further nortli- liirdthe country becomes irregular and oioun- Iliinous; but the plains and valluys, particularly l^the river, ajre exceedingly fruitful ; they yield Irtod wlicati and the various kinds of suiall grain which |?r»w i*^ Hindostnn; as likewise ir^ranies, •ad iiio»t of the esculejit vegetables of India. L^garcaneSj tobacco of a superior (|uality, indigo, Lotton, Slid the ditierent tropical fruits, in per- Ifection, ^^^ *ill indigenous prbducts of this Ifivoiired land. Besides the teak tree, which grows in many Inirtsnf the Birman empire, as well to the north llif Umnierapoora, as in tlie s(uithern country, ■there is alioust every description of timber that is Lbowu in India. Dr. Buchanan, in one of his Itfiernoon excursions, perceived a large log of ||r, which, his attendant informed him, had been Iffuheddown by the torrents from a mountainous Ipiirtof the country, four days journey northward loflhe ca;)itul, where it grows in abundance, and |tf considerable magnitude: the natives call it [Zuenyo; they extract the turpentine, which they jlurnto use, lint consider the wood of little value, [oaaccount of its softness. If they could be pre- [uileil upon to transport it to Rangoon, it might [prove a beneficial material to the navigation of [India. Top-giillant masts and yards made of art! thought to be too heavy. European jiiid American spars are often bought for the.se [purposes at a very exorbitant price, uu incon- lieniciice wliich the fir of Ava, if conveyed to the linarkct, would probably obviate. I, The kingdom of Ava abounds in mineral.s,' six Edayg journey from, Bduioo, near the frontiers of [Cliiiia, there are mimes of gold and silver, called [Biuiutiein: there ure aUo ntiuos of gold, silver, (rubies, and sapphires at pros(;nt open on a noiintain near the Keenduem, called VVooboloo- lun; but the mo.st valuable, and those which produce the finest jewels, arc in the vicinity of Jic capital, nearly opposite to I^ooum-meuum. iPrecious stones arc found in several other. parts of the empire. The inferior miuprals, such as .^^^^*^"^— .^— * The quarries of marble are only a few miles from I'mmrrapdora. It is e(|ual In quality to the finest marble Jof Italy, and admits of a polish that renders it almost RraiKparent. Blocks of any size that it is possible to pniiiurt niit;ht be procured, bnt thdsftle i» prohibited ; nor n it allowed to be carried away without a spnrial order. Inagcs of Gaudma being chioiiy composed of this material, Vol. II. No. CXlII. contain iron, tin, lead, antimony, arsenic, sul- phur, &c. ure met with in great abundance: amber, of a consistence unusually pore and pellucid, is dug up in large quantities near the river; gold likewise is discovered in tiic s»ii(ly beds of iitrenms which descend from tlia mouu- tuins. Between (he Keanducm and the Trrawaddy, to the northward, there is a small river called Shoe Lien Kiou|>, or the Stream of Cioldcn Sand. Diamonds and emeralds are not produced in any part of the Ava empire; but it aifurds auioth^sts, garnets, very beautiful chrysolites, jasper, loail- stonc, and marble*. An extensive trade is curried on between the capital of the Birman domiin'ons and Yuuan in China. The principal article of export from Ava is cotton, of which there are two kinds, one of a brown colour, of which nankeens are made, the other white, like the cotton of India. This commodity is transported up the Irrawiiddy in large boats us fur as Butnoo, where it is bartered at the common jee or mart, with Chinese mer- chants, and conveyed by the latter, partly by land, and partly by water, into the Chinese do- minions. Amber, ivory., precious stones, beetle nut, and the edible nests brought from the eastern Archipelago, are also articles of commerce: in return, the Birmans procure raw and wrought silks, velvets, gold leaf, preserves, paper, and some utensils of hardware. The commerce between the capital and the southern parts of the empire is facilitated by the noble river that waters the country; its principal objects are the necessaries of life; several thou- sand boats are annually employed in train^vorting rice from the lower provinces, to supply Um- nierapoora, sind the northern districts; salt and gndpee may likewise be reckoned under the same head. Articles of foreign importation are mostly conveyed up the Trrawaddy; a few are introduced by way of Arracan, and carried oVer the moun- tains on the heads, of coolies, or labourers; Eu- ropean broad cloth,. a small quantity of hardware, coarse Bengal muslins, Cosseaibuzar silk hand- it is on that account held sacred. Birmans may not pur. chasb the itlarble in mass, bat are stilFercd and indeed en. ,coura(;ed to buy figures of the deity ready made. Ex. portation of their gods out of the kingdom is strictly for. bidden. The city of Chagaiu is tho priucipal manufactory of these marble diTinitiest ; y : i | ^ ' ; -I i !i| 4 i'W : "S I 7L kerchiefs. km^ 5ftV EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. kcrrhicfn, China ware, which will not admit of land carria(^e, and {;lass, are the principal com- iDodities. Cocoa nuts also, brought from the Nicobar Islands, where tht-y are of uncommon excellence, are looked upon as a deliruc^r, and bear a high price: merchants curry down silver, Ihcc, precious stones, luid some othtir articles, to no great amount. The Rirmiiiis, like the Chinese, have no coin; silver in bullion, and lead, are the current monies of the coiuitr}'; weight and purity are, of course, the standard of value, and in tlie ascertainment of both the natives are exceedingly scrupulous and expert. What foreigners call tackal, properly kiat, is the most general piece of . lilver in circulation: it weighs ten penny weights ten grains and three-fourths; its subdivisions are, the tubbee, two of which make one moo; two moo one math; four math one tackal; and one ' hundred tackal compose one viss. Money scales . and weights are all fabricated at the ca|)ital, where they are stamped, and afterwards circu- lated throughout the empire; the use of any ■ others is prohibited. Rice is sold by a measure called Fayndaung, or basket, the weight is sixteen viss, abcut fifty- six pounds. There are many subdivions of mea- surement. The average price of rice at the capital is one tackal, rather more than half-a- crown, for a basket and a half. At Rangoon and Martaban one tackal will purchase four or five baskets. The bankers, called by foreigners Pymon, arc likewise workers in silver, and assayers of metal: this is a class of people very numerous; and in- dispensably necessary, as no stranger can under- take either to pay or receive money without hav- ing it first examined. Kvery merchant has a banker of this description, with whom he lodges all his cash, aad who, for receiving and paying, gets an established commission of one per cent ; in consideration of which he is responsible for the quality of what goes through his hands; and in 'no instance did the Colonel ever hear of a breadi of trust committed by one of these bankiers*. The quantity of alloy varies in the silver current in different parts of the empire; at Rangoon it ig * Any person may ha*e Us silror either piirifiad or d«> predated to whatever staniiard he chooses; the nearait lilrersmith will be glad to perrorm the work fcoe from charge for his labour, as th» bringcr by the operation luiist lose a triflS) which the artist gains : the small quantity of adulterated twenty-five per cent; at XJmmc 1 ptiora, pure, or what i«i called flowerrd liu'*] is most common: in this latter all royal dnM j paid. The several modification!! are as follow, j Rouoi, or pure silver. Koimika, 5 per cent, of alloy. Roiuiizoe, 10 fHT cent. Rouassce, 20 per cent. INTouwadzoo, 2.'i per cent. Woontbo, liO per cent. The Dirman measures of length are, a PanJ paut, or inch, eighteen of which compose IM Taiin, or cubit. The .Saundaimg, or royal ciibij equal to twenty-two inches. The "|)ha IJainboo, which consists of st^ven royal ciibifij one thousand dha make one Birmaii league oi Dain. neatly t^qnal to two British miks and twl furlongs; the league is also subdivided into teiithj] The Itirmans keep their accounts in dccimali after the liianner of the Chinese. It his already been noticed, that the gcncnj disposition of the Birmans rs strikingly contrasie/ with that of the natives of India, from whom thel are separated only by a narrow range of mniiiiJ tains, in many places admitting of an cstxv inter] corrrse. Notwithstanding the small extent ofthij barrier, the physical difference between then J tions could scarcely be greater, had they bfei situated at the opposite extremities of the globe] The 'Birmans are a lively, inquisitive race, active] irascible, and impatient: the character of theij Bengal neighbours is too well known, as M reverse, to need any delineation; the unworthj passion of Jealousy which prbmpts most uation of the east to immure their women within llii walls of an haram, and surround them will] guards, seems to have scarcely any influenci over the minds of this extraordinary and moti liberal people. Birman wives and daughters ait not concealed from the sight of men, and aii Suffered to have as free intercourse with eacq Other as the rules of European society at but in other respects women have just reason tJ complain of their treatment; they are consideref as nut belonging to the same scale of the creatio roctad that adheres to tha crncijbki h his profit. I wasL >fpriD(td, tlmt th« silversmith can sell these i-ruuibivs afictJ wards to refiners £oi by keeping their accounts and transacting [tixir business: but when a man departs from the jcountrv, he is notauOerod to carry his tomporarv Wire along with bira : on that point the law is Lfeed-nfrly rigorous: everyiship, before she re- IteiTM her clearance, is diligently searched by the loficers of the custom-house: even if their iTigilancc were eluded, the woman would be •uickly missed ; and it would be soon discoveted in ■hat vessel she had gone, oor could that ship ever jrturn to a Hirman port but under penalty of Lnflscation of the property, and, tlie infliction of I heavy fine and inipriatiunient on the master: Me children also, bom of a Birnian mother, ueoot sutfored to be taken away. Men are per- mitted to emigrate, but they think that the ex- Llatinn of women would impoverish the state, Ij diminishing the sources of it« population. One vice is usually the parent of another: the firmans, being exempt from that jealousy, do resort to the diabolical practice of eniascu- [tinp; male children, to educate them as spies Itr their women. Chastity, they know, is more kicfly guarded by principles of honour and ot- Ichment than by moits or castles. When jracanwas conquered by the Bivmans, several Muchswerc made prisoners, buloaging to the keof the country, who had adopted that geneiate custotn of Mohammedan growth, ^se people arc mainteined by tlte Bir-mad' Boarch rather as memorials of his conquests, in for any siervicestliey are required to perform. ^delity is not a characteristic of Birman wives; in f^eneral they have too much employment to leave leisure fur the corruption of their minds. A woman of the higlieH rank seldom sits in idlc- ncsBathome; her female servants like thu^e of the Grecian dames of antiquity, ply "the various labours of the loom:" whilul the mistress super- intends and direrts their indu.stry. On the occa- sion of a formal visit to the mother of the present qneen, we observed in one of the galleries of the palace, tlnee or four looms at w«>rk wrought by the damsels of her household. Weaving is chiotiy a female occupation. Most Birman families make all the cotton and silk that is required for their domestic consumption. The Birmans, in some points of their dispo- sition, display the ferocity of barbarians, and in others all the humanity and (eadernoss of polished life : they inilict the most heavy vengeance on theii enemies; as invaders, desolation murks their track, for thry spare neither sex nor age: but at home they assume a different character; there !>hey manifest benevolence, by extending aid to the intirni, the u<>;e(l, and the sick: filial piety is iiieulcated as a sac-red ])re(-ept, a-id its duties are religiously obstjrwd A common beggar is nowhere to be seen: every individuiil is certain of receiving sustenance, wliieh, if he cannot pro- cure it by his own Inbour, is provided fur him by others. The Birmans divide their time as follow: The xpacc in which the tinger cau be raised and de- pressed is called chara/i; ten charazi make one piaan; six piaan one bizana (about a minute). The day, of twenty-four hours, commencing at noon, is divided into eight portions, or yettee^ of three hours each, thus denominated: Moon Yottee; or uoon; Loung Yettee, three P. M. Ijay Yettee, six P. M. Gneah Yottee, nine P. M. Gueuh Gnek Yettee, midnight; Gneah Layhee L(»ung Yettee, three in the luorning; Mioh Line Yettee, six A. M. Gneah Tek Yettee, nine A.M. __, _ ,ij These divisions of time are ascertained by a machine resembling the hour glass, and some- times by a perforated pan p'luued in a tub of water: they are announced by a str(^!ie on an oblong drum, whiiih is alwa^a Jiept near the dwelling ofthe chief mugistrate.of the city, town, or village; it is uomutoniy raised on a high bamboo stage, wiUi a ro»f of mutsjto protect it from the weather. The edifice at the royal palace for the reception of this instrument is of masonrv. itil'itiiti'ltlftiil rm'-\ km * -i m.m Mi ' m\ , II 58^ '? Nay Young 1 ,!» • »; Wazoo ,.;,« ;-,„. Wugoung .;i !i \r.-r Toouzelicn ' . I • Sandaing Guitc ^' Tazoung Moang f ' l> '■• Ctnadoh f ir : ■< Pceazoo Taboodway Taboung 29 30 2i> SO 29 30 29 30 29 ;^o 29 30 •v *'t([ t 3M In order to complete a solar revolution, they interculate in every third year a month of thirty days. The Birmans are extremely fond both of poetry and music ; they call the former Yeddoo : when repeated by a scholar, it flows soft and measured to (be ear; it is sometimes in successive, and often in alternate rhymes. A line is called Tageoung; a stanza, Tubbouk. They have epic as well as religious poems of high celebrity, and they are fond of reciting in heroic numbers the exploits of their kin^s and generals. Music is a science which is held in considerable estimation throughout the Birman empire, tind is cultivated at the present day more generally than in India, notwithstanding it is called by the Greeks, the language of the gods. The royal library of Ummerr poora is said to contain many valuable treatises on the art. Some of the pro- fessional musicians display considerable skill and eMCUtiun, auu «^3 softest airs are pleasing even to an ear unaccustomed to such melody. Tin principal instruments are a Soum, or harp* made of light wood, hollowed and varnished, in shape somewhat like a canoe with a deck; at the ex- tremity a piece c)f hard vfood is neatly fastened* ' which tapers to the end, and rising curves over I the body of the harp; from this curvature, the strings, usually made of wire, are extended' to a bridge on the belly of the instrument: there are! two sounding holes, one on each side of thcj bridge. The size of the Soum varies from twol to five feet in length. The Tiirr rcsen-hlcs oiirl violin; it has only three strings, and is |»liiycdon| with a bow. The Pullaway, is a coiiimonl flageolet. The Kyezoup, is ti collectiiiti of) cvmbuls, which arc suspended in a bamboo franiej those cymbals, varying in size, produce modiJ latcd gradations of sounds. The Pulola, on guitar, is a curious instrument; it is the exacj form of a crocodile in miniature; the body oi which is hollow, with sounding holes on (hef back; three strings of wire extend from tb. shoulder to the tail, and are supported on bridgei at each extremity ; the strings are tuned by tncaol of pegs in the tail, to which they are fastened; i| is played on by the flnger, and is generull)' met to accompany the voice. The Boundaw is collection of drums, oblong in form, and varviui in size, which are suspended perpendicidurly in} wooden frame by leather thongs. The wholl machine is about Hvc feet in diameter, nndfouj feet high. The performer stands in the cciitti and beats on the drums with a small stick. TU instrument is also introduced when thereisaful band, and is much used in processions, carried by two men, whilst the performer shufi along on the inside, playing as he goes. Heem is the pipe of Pan, formed of several red neatly joined together, and sounded h^'aconinil mouth-piece; when played with skill, it pi] duces a very plaintive melody. These are I principal instruments of music in use among t Birmans. Of the ancient Pallis, whose langu: stitutes at the present day the sacred text of Aj Pegue, and Siani, as well- as of several countries eastwr-d of the Ganges; andoflN migration from India to the banks of the CJ the Nile of Ethiopia, wc have but very imp information. As a nation they have f ceased to exist: they arc said to have posse EMBASSY TO Tilt KINGDOM OF AVA. 587 I informer times, a doininion stretching from the Indies as far as Siam, and to have been conquered hv the Rajapatras, who chaii<;ed the name of their country from Palisthaji to Rajapiitra. In llie nlil l)i)o'»s of i ■ ! , - ' >J : '■i^ !l i\ p.- ■■-■I \<:%\n ^88 EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA; communication \«^ith that river; but on entering the Birmaa dominions assumes the name of Thaluajrn, or Thanluayn, and falls into the sea at Martaban. " That the river Pegue, which is supposed to come from China, rises among hills about a hundred miles from the sea, and which form the ''boundary between the Uirman and Pegue king- doms. " That between the Pegue and Martaban rivers there is a lake, from which two river? pro- ceed; the one runs north to Old Ava, where it joins the Myoungnya, or Little River of Ava, which comes from mountains on the frontiers of China; the other river run«i south from the lak to the sea, and is the Sitang river in the man ^ " That the rivers of China, which are sun. i posed to be the heads of the Pegue river a those of the viceroy Siani. ' '^' " That the rivers of Siam and Cambodia com municate by a very considerable branch, calledl the Annan." ' I This disposition of the rivers gives an entirJ new face to the geography of India beyond tliJ Ganges; and from the diligence and ability witll which Dr. Buchanan collated the several acJ counts that he received ; I am inclined to belieJ that his statement is nearly correct. n< , r , SECTION X. Permission granted to make Astronomical Ohsenations — Bengal Painter employed at Court— Moi, of catching xcild Elephants — Attention of Vtceroijs to Foreign Ministers — Ceremowj arranged- Procession — Manner of Entrance — Introduction into the Lotoo, or Grand Council Haii^ Description of the Court, and its Magnificence — Formalities observed in returning — Commcrci^ Intercourse with Birma likeUj to he advantageous to Britain. GEOGRAPHY is the foundation of all his- torical knowledge, without which history becomes little better than romance. Having hitherto found the most authentic geographical information that could be obtained relative to countricij eastward of the Ganges extremely er- roneous, the Colonel was desirous of determining the true situation of the capital of Ava, especially as he had now a favourable opportunity of profiting by the assistance of a gentleman of high professional talents. It was, however, n^quisite to obtain the sanction of the Birman government, before Mr. Wood could commence astronomical observations; and, in reply *'» an application made through the Maywoon of Pegue, the most liberal encouragement was given to proceed with the observations. Being obliged at night to leave the grove and go out on the plain, in order to have a distinct view of the heavenly bodies, the peasants that inhabited the neighbourii^ villages believed him to be a necromancer, and his telescope and time-keeper instruments of magic. In their wonder they sometimes crowded about him so as to disturb his operations; but it was nothing more than harmless curiosity; they wanted to discover by what means he held com- mnnication with the Nat ts, the supernatural an invisible agents of the air. The reputation which the Bengal drutifrhtso) belonging to the deputation had acquired by I botanical drawings, having come to the kiion ledge of his Birman majesty, or, in tlic Binnaj phrase, having reached the Golden ^m, thj king was pleased to d.sirc a specinicii of skill, and sent a painting on glass, executed bvj Siamese artist in his own service, sigiiifyingl royal will that it should be copied upon papej This picture, which was a tolerable poriormaiicl represented the mode of catching wild clepid in the forci^ts. It was thus describnl: Til hunters, mounted on tame elephants that trained to the business, by lying flat on M backs, introduce themselves unnoticed into a wii herd, and take an opportunity to cast a ruiiniij noose in the track of the one that is meant toll secured. The other end of the rope is tusten to the body of the tame elephant, who iniis diately throws the wild one downi; a battle tin ensues, in which the trained elephant, buiii;;! sisted by its associates, soon overpowers the i habitant of the woods, who is deserted by allll oUiers; it is afterwards borne away a prisoM frnv le siipernaturalan EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. 589 Mtboundby two of its captors, whilst another L,e8 on at its head, and a fourth urges it be- lind. In " ^^^ weeks, by proper discipline, the Liinal becomes docile, and submits to its fate. Tiose that are taken in this manner are for the Bost part females. Male elephants are usually Inticed by the blandishments of the females, Lned for *''® purpose, into an inclosure or lepdab, from whence they cannot extricate ijinselves, and are easily secured. I Wlieii a public minister is delegated from a Ljjn power to the Birman court, it is the Itabiiihed custom for the May woon, or governor ttlie frontier province which the minister first tiers, to provide for his conveyance to the LpitaT, and to attend to his convenience so long f lie continues to reside in the country ; a serviqe llicli he is ucquently obliged to perform in tfson. As the time approached that was appointed for public entry into Ummerapoora, says Colonel lines, which as yet we had only viewed from ir residence on the opposite bank of the lake, I Iged it proper to make some enquiry respecting 'ceremonials usually observed an such occa- ins, and the exterior forms of homage that luld be required. I wished also to ascertain 'relative degree of rank that would be given [the agent of the Governor General of India; as I was officially given to understand that Chinese deputies were to be introduced on same day, I urged my right to precedence, the (borough persuasion that they did not itidite an imperial embassy, but were merely fovinciul legation, although probably sanction- by the monarch of China. The necessity of laining these points became evident, from the ipiilous regard to external forms which the mans manifested upon every occasion. The lone! was informed that he should be allowed tiljof rank with the nobility of the court, and precedence over the Chiriese deputies would ,Tanted to him. In the 29th of August, the day preceding that [which the deputation was to be formally in- luced, the Colonel received a message, de- ITIic procession \vui> martihallcd in tlio rollnwini; nrder; IndoliS'Uii, or master uf the ccrumunics, on horseback; Iniruuiiseroo, or register of strangers, on horseback , KUouiiiii'rcc, ur re^isiur of presents^ on horseback; siring to know what number of attendants he meant to take with him, and to specify the rank they bore, particularly that of the pundit, the moonshce, and the painter. He was at the same time acquainted, that it was not customary to admit armed men into the palace. Late in tlie evening he received another message, informing him, that the profession of Dr. Buchanan was held by the Birmans in a less dignified estimation, than it bore among Europeans; and that it was unusual, on such solemn occasions, to receive a person of his station into the Lotoo, or great council hall. He endeavoured to vindicate the liberal and enlightened profession of medicine; and the difficulty was at length overcome. They agreed to receive the doctor, but stipulated that he should ride on horseback in the procession, and not be indulged with an elephant, a privilege which, they said, was granted only to persons of the highest consequence. Preparatory to their visit, the presents intended for his Birman majesty were carefully assorted, and put into separate boxes, The next day, (the 30th) they took vn early breakfast, and the Seree-dogee, or secretary of the Lotoo, acquainted them that boats were prepared to convey them across the lake. The presents having been sent before, they walked to the water side, attended by Baba Sheen, the Seree-dogee, and several in- ferior officers. Three war-boats were ready at the bank to receive them: the largest was of fifty oars. In about twenty minutes they crossed the lake, where three elephants and several horses were waiting to convey them, and some Birman officers of inferior rank attended at the bank, dressed in their robes and caps of ceremony. The furniture of the animals we were to ride was far from being superb. Men of rank in the Birman empire always guide their own elephants, and sit on the neck, in the same manner that the drivers or mohaats do in 'ndia. Owing to this custom they are unprovided with those commo- dious seats in which an Indian gentleman reposes at ease on the back of this noble beast, whilst the government of it is entrusted to any other person*. __ ■ • The dressed in their ortulul roljivs or cap-. Soldiers that coin. l)osed th(( escort. 'I'he elephaut of tlm reprosentativo of the Governor.General ; Mi . Wood and Dr. Uuciianan on horsti. back; Baba Sheen, as ciiief intcriiretcr. The Chinese , ' doputios, if vi|< N-i^ ,■( : It 590 EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. The procession being arranged, they coin- menccd their march, keeping a moderate pace, so as not to distress the bearers of tlie presents. After proceeding a short way, they entered a wide and handsome street that was paved with brick: the houses on each side were low, built of wood, and covered with tiles; they had been evidently prepared for the occasion, being fresh whitewashed, and decorated with boughs and flowers; the shops, which are usually open towards the street, displayed their best goods. In front of each house was a slight latticed railing of bajiiboo, advanced into the street, to the distance of thr«e or four feet; over this space was spread a shade of bamboo mats, that reached from the caves of the houses to the railing, forming a sort of covered balcony, every one of which was crowded with spectators, men and women indiscriminately. They proceeded till they came to the rhoom, which was a lofty hall, raised four or five feet from the ground, and open on all sides: it was situated about a hun- dred yards from the gate of the palace court, in the centre of a spacious area. Putting off their shoes they entered the saloon, and sat down on carpets, that were spread for them, with their faces towards the palace gate. The presents in- tended for his Birman majesty were here do- posited. They were delayed in the rhoora for two hours, till the arrival of the royal family, who came wiwi numerous and splendid attendants. A few minutes after the Engy Tekien, or prince royal, had entered, they received a summons, in compliance with which they proceeded from the rhoom, observing the same order as before; the presents carried in front, and the members of the Chinese embassy following the English deputa- tion. As they proceeded, the Sandohgaan was exceedingly troublesome, b" calling on them to make frequent superfluous obeisances, whilst his manner of requiring tliem was conspicuously un- civil. The Colonel checked his insolence by ob- serving, through Baba Sheen, that if the Sandoh- gaan wished him to proceed, he must alter his tone and demeanour. This reproof, however, had only a momentary effect: he soon resumed bis arrogant behaviour, which he repeated deputies, oil elephants, preceded by tli ir servants, bearing flags, A VVooiidoclt, or second counsellor of state. Two Terrczogces, or officers who liold judiciary stations. Tlic 5 throughout the day whenever opportunity offi- j On approaching tho gate the greater part of'tiJ attendants belonging to the English deputai'] were stopped, and not permitted to follow fh but the gentlemen of the embassy were rcquo i" to put off their shoes, which, of course I'lJ immediately complied with. ' The area is spacious, and contains tlie Lni i or grand hall of consultation and audience, \,i the Woongees met in council, and where all i of state are discussed and determined, )Vj||,| this inclosure there is an inner court, separaj by a brick wall, which comprehends the pay and all the buildings annexed to the ro\a| » sidence. They ascended a flight of stairs," w|J is a noble saloon, or open hall, called thcLoln where the court was assembled in all the ir)L dor that Birman pomp and grandeur could' di play. On entering this hall a stranger cannot f| to be surprized at the maguificenceof ilsappeJ ance; it is supported by .seventy-seven pilij disposed in eleven rows, each consisting of sevi The space between the pillars i^ about twell feet, except the central row, which is two fJ wider. The roof of the building is coniposedj distinct stages, the highest in the centre. Ati farther part of the hall is a high gilded laltil extending quite across the building, and in ( centre of the lattice is a gilded door, which, wb opened, displays the throne; this door is elevall five or six feet from the floor, so that (hetlirj must be ascended by means of steps at (he I which are not visible, nor is the seat of (hethrij to be seen, except when the king comes in perl to the Loloo. At the bottom of the latticelJ is a gilt balustrade, three or four feet hi;,'hl which the umbrellas and other insignia ohtj were deposited. The royal colour is white, the umbrellas were made of silk of that dol richly bespangled with gold. ^Vithin thisinj nificent saloon were seated, on their invertc( all the princci and principal nobility I' itirman empire, each person in the place | propriated to his particular rank and slalil proximity to the throne is, of course, the honourable station; which was occupied bvj princes of the blood, the Woongees, thcAJ scrrants of the embassy walked on each side, (wolijB and a number of constables attended, with long whites to keep oil' the populace. II '; EMBASSY TO THE KINGDOM OF AVA. 591 |f»9n«, and other great officers of state. The Ifi^yXeekien (or heir apparent) sat on a small ol, about six" inches high; the other princes . ijoe mats. The space between the central liiillars that front the throne is always left vacant, IL this curious reason, that his majesty's eyes Ljv not be ohHged to behold those whom he does not mcanio honour with a look. After w'c bad taken possession of mats that been spread for us, says Colonel Symes, it L„ civilly intimatedj that we oaght not to pro- vide the soles of our feet towards the seat of Mjesty, but should endeavour to sit in the Ltiire that was observed by those around us. ^fjth this desire we would have readily complied, fjlliadbetn in our power, but we had not yet Lncd to sit upon Our legs. The flexibility of fciiscles vvltich the Birmans, and indeed all the jitifes of India, possess, is such as cannot be ac- Lired by Europeans. A Birman, when he sits, Seldom touches the seat with his posteriors, but iwipported byhis heels. It is scarcely practi- bbleforaii Ejropean, dressed in close garments, ) place himself in such an attitude; and if he ^ereable, it would be out of his power to con- bue lon^ in it. We inverted our legs as much ipflisibic, and the awkwardness with which we lid this excited a smile from some; not a word, loffcrer, was uttered, and our endeavours seem* I to give satisfaction. Eight Bramins in white kccrdotal gowns, and silk caps of the same jDlours, studded with gold, assembled round the M of the throne, within the balustrade, and pdkda long prayer in notunpleasing recitative; lij ceremony lasted a quarter of an hour. When CT bad withdrawn, the letter from the Go- nor-General, which Colonel Symes delivered )a Woondock, was placed on a silver tray in loot of the railing, and a Saudohgaan, or reader, hranccd into the vacant space, and made three ptrations, touching the ground each time with lifurehead: he then read, or rather chanted, in a voice, a Birman translation of the letter. Ilicn this was done, he repeated his prostrations, lue.xt proclaimed a list of the presents fur tin; Sig. These several readings being finished, he |)eated his obeisances and retired. After an in- Itval of a few minutes, an otHcer, entitled aiigee, advanced, and proposed a question jthe Colonel, as if from his majesty; on re- jinngan answer he withdrew, as it might be (Vol, II. No. CXIV. supposed to communicate the reply; and returned in an adequate time to ask another: thus he put three separate questions, which were as follow: " You come from a distant country ; how long is it since you arrived? How were the king, queen, and royal family of England, when the last accounts came frona thence? Was England at peace or war with other nations ? and was your country in a state of disturbance?" To ibcse questions the Colonel returned satisfactory answers. In a few minutes after his last reply had been conveyed, a very handsome desert was set before the deputation, which c. isisted of a variety of sweetmeats. There appeared to be not less than a hundred diflferent small fishes: they tasted of a few, and found some of them very palatable. About half an hour afterwards they were informed by the Sandohgaan that there was no occasion for thera to remain any longer. When they rose to leave the Lotoo, (his Birman majesty not being present, ) the Sandohgaan de* sired them to make three obeisances to the throne, by a slight inclination of the body and raising the right hand to the head. They were then reconducted to the saloon, wheie they were informed it was necessary they should remain till the princes came forth from the palace, and had got upon their elephiMits, as their etiquette did not allow any perso ■■, on such occasions, to mount before the members of the royal family. They accordingly took their places in the hall ■)■, In: '.- ;r - A' .,r.> {., "t . t^^nUMm OBSERVATIOI OBSERVATIONS / '. MADE ON A TOUR FROM BENGAL TO PERSIA, "' In the Years 1786-7. OBSERVATIOl \rnit A SHORT ACCOUNT OF THE REMAINS OF THE CELEBRATED PALACE OF PERSEPOLIS. Mr WIL,]LI^M FR*AJ¥K]LIJ\\ Ensign on the Honourable Company's Bengal EstaMiahmcnt. i"/* .:-»",);„,.,, ^ ■ ' •■■■■-■ '1' ,-.,v-,'».i- ,i . SECTION I. Markation from Calcutta — Description of Point de Galle — Anjcngo — Cochccn — TelUchcrry— Qoa—Tomb qf Xavicre—Bombai/ described — Muscat — Abu Shchr — Journey to Shirauz—' r.^ Qi....^..^ . rr...^i. ..f ij„ff~. n„^i-«r,i„.ri . Tvi....,i„.. . '''■"'1' f Sadi; remarkable in Persia — Fimcrals 'Hits of Shirauz-^ Breed of Horses — Manufactures and Trade — Ciimute — Character of the Modern Persians — Women of Shirauz — Superstition of the Persians; their Talismans; Manner of charming Scoifions—Mode qf Living. , ^N the 27th of February 1786, Ensign Franklin embarked at Calcutta on board hip Yarmouth, Captain Greenly commander, tir Bombay, in his way to Persia; and on the llth of March arrived at Point de Gaile, which ii small fort, situated on the south-west side of leisland of Ceylon. The inhabitants, excepting kc Dutch, arc a mixture of Malabars and native fortiiguese; but great numbers of the latter, Ipecially of the lower class of people. The lingliere is very cheap, but there is little trade. mms, amethysts, and other precious stones, ■found on the island of Ceylon, and brought [ere for sale; but it is dangerous to purchase m, when set, without being skilled in those bminodities ; the people who sell them being iry expert in making the false stones appear like lue ones, by colouring them at the bottom. lo kind of spiee, nutmegs, or any other rarities h I obscrred, (says the Ensign,) in the course of a few urs'stay on shorcj sereral people whoso legs were swelled Itinost extraordinary manner ; this the natives acconnt f, from the badness of the water, and the vapours which for which this island is so celebrated, are to be met with at this placj. The harbour is circular; at the entrance of it lie many rocks, just above the surface of the water, which make it danger- ous fur strange ships to go in, without a pilot; the waves beat with amazing violence against the fortifications. Along, and almost all around the harbour, are the country-houses of the inhabit- ants, which have a pleasing effect; the road^ to these, by land, is through a grove of cocoa-tnit trees, which forms an agreeable skauc. However, this place must be very unhealthy, ae high hilU lie close behind the houses, and exhale noxious vapour both morning and evening, which make it precarious to the inhabitants in point of health; they are in general siekly, but particularly Eu- ropeans*. Fish is to be had here in great plenty; poultry of all kinds is very scarce; the fruits are chiefly plantains, pine apples, and arise from tbo adjoining hills. I have heard that the in. habitants of Malacca arc liable to the same disease, and similar causcsi .^, . ^, ^ ; pumple I fr I 1 Ui m M' 1 i' II 59 1 OBSIftVyVTIONS MADft ON A pum pie noses; tlie cocoa nuts are also in great plenty and very good; (lie bruud is tolerable, but the L!'Uer execrable, it being litde better than train oil. On the 2\hh saw the land a little to the east- ward of Cupc Cormorin, and on the li\st of March came to anchor in (he roadii of Anjengo, which is a small fort and English residency, the first that you arrive ut upon the Malabar coast from Cape Corniorin: the inhabitants are Malabars and native Portuguese, mixed. It is reported to be one of the first places in India for intelligence, and the English have received great service from it in that respect during the American war. At Anjengo there is a post to several parts of India; this is but lately established. On the 9th of April, came to anchor in Cocheen Toad?, and went on shore immediately. Coche'en is very populous, and a place of great trade; the inhabitants are a mixture of a variety of Eastern ifatipns, being composed of Malabars, Armenians, Persiapf, Arabians, Jews, Indians, and native JPortugupse. The Jews occupy a whole village, a little to the westward of the town; they live separate from the rest' of the inhabitants: the Ensign went into several of their houses, and could nothel|) observing, in this people, a striking peculiarity of features, diflerent from any he had ever seen ; a resemblance seemed to riiu through the whole, as if they were all of one family : they seldom or ever marry out of their own tribe, by -which the likeness is preserved, from father to son, for a long time. The same similarity of features is to be observed amongst the Jews of Amsterdam in Holland, and other parts of Eu- rope. This certainly .serves to distinguish them more as an »riij|^ial people than any other. They have a good synagogue here, and are less op- pressed, and have more liberty, than in most other parts of the East. The rs^jah of Cocheen resides here, but lives in an indifferent state. He is a Gentoo. Cocheen, in former times, was a place of considerable celebrity, and was one of the places pitched upon by the first Portuguese . r i '■■■' 'i • Here tlio English troops .sustaiiu'd a si'vorc sirgc for BCTcral years, anaiiist the army of Jlytlcr, iiiidor tlic com. mand of Sa the greatest plenty. The lOth, sailed; and on the l.Jth, camel anchor in Tellicherry roads. Amon^ otIiJ places which he saw in and about TeliiiJierrv,! had a view of the fortifications, or rather of tlierj gular lines drawn round Tellicherrv, for defence of the place. These lines are extpcdini'M strong; they take in a space of about three mill and a half in circumference, and are well fended by batteries and redoubts; a river ru| parallel to the western ai^Je, which breakii^ oil' from thence runs among the hills*. TM lines in some parts appear rather out of orda as they have not been thoroughly repaired Mn the siege of the place. The garrison of tJ licherr> consists generally, in time of |ieaie, | one battalion of sepoys, a company of urtiljerj and sometinies a company of European infunir] they are also able to raise about three thuusai native militia. The view of the country aroui Tellicherry is very pleasant, consisting of iri| gular hills and vallies. Tellicht^rry is esteem by all who reside there, to be one of the healltii^ places in India, Europeans seldom dying then it is also much resorted to by ctiiivalcscents: i sea produces plenty of fine oysters, and provisiol of all kinds are to be had in abundance. He| in the Company's garden, is the pepper viJ which grows in a curious mann^^r, and soiuetliil similar to the grape; the pepper on it, whcDi to gather, appears in sniall bniiclies ; it is in si something larger than the head of a small { (enfs, and elephants. The (Jeneral o( the enemy ' dangerously wounded and takcii prisoner, and diedal days after, of (hat and a brokon hcari, at rcilicheir}. I lies buried close to the fort of Tellicherry j a tuijl)! been erected to him, in which lamps are. continually burii| which many Mussulmeii visit out uf respect to tlici of the deceased. TOUR FROM BENGAL TO PRRSIA. 505 Ibe pcpP"'' however* for the Company's ships' Ifutm, is brought from some distance in the ifionity- Tellicberr^ also produces the coflee tree. On the /29th, anchored in the rouds of Gos> off* the Fort Aiguarda. Goa is a large Lty, and was once populous; it is the capital of tl)C Portuguese settlements on this side Le ^Ap* of Good Hope; it is the residence Lf a Captain-General sent from Portugal, who Ijyfs in great splendour. The city stands Dpnn (lie banks of a river nf the same name, about L^lve miles distanc<^ from the entrance of the harbour: the view up this river is truly delight- ful, th'' banks on ;ilher side are adorned with (hurcliea, and co mtry-seats of the Portuguese, inlerspcrsed with groves and vallies; the river his several pleasing openings as it winds along, ill banks are low, but the hills behind rise to an limiizini; height, and add grandeur to the spcc- lide. The city of Goa itself is adorned with Lanv tine churches, magnificently decorated; lindiing several handsome convents; the church ■of Saint Augustine is a noble structure, and is lidorned in tlie inside by many fine picture:-;; it litMcIs on the top of a hill, from whence is an Ittteniiive view of the city and adjacent country : lit ii a circumstance that has always been observed, lindvery justly, that the Portuguese have ever Itliosen the spots for their convents and churches JiD the most delightful situations. The body of Idiis church is spacioua, and the grand altar-piece Knished in the most elegant style. The building |«f the choir is of Gothic architeoture, and there- Ifore of antiquity. This church has a convent lidjnining to it, in which live a set of religious hionks, of the order of St. Augustine. Adjoining [to this church is a convent of religious women, |«ho have taken the veil, and are therefore pro- fited from all kind of intercourse with the Ivorld: these chiefly consist of the daughters and nieces of the Portuguese inhabitants of the place; Vd a sum of money is generally given with hbeiD, on their entrance into the convent. A Bittle lower, on the declivity of the bill, stands jinother church, dedicated to the Bon Jesus, in Mch w the cbapel of Saint Francisco de * ThU chapel isamofit superb and magDificent place; Ihc tonib of the laint U entirely of fine black marble, Brought from Lisbon ; on the fmir sides of it the principal [iciiong of the life uf the Saint are most elegantly carted in ma relie?o; these reptescnt his converting the different Vol. II. No. CXIV. Xaviere, whose tomb it contains*. On the sides of this chapel are excellent paintings, done by Italian mHsttTs; the subjects chiefly from scripture. In the valley below is another con- vent for yomig ladies who have not taken the veil; out of this convent the Portuguese and others who go (here may marry: souie of the ladies have small portioriH, others none. The Captain-General of Goa is also Cora* mander in Chief of all the Portuguese forces in the East Indies*. Goa is at present on the de- cline, and in little or no estimation with the country powers; indeed tlieir bigotry and super- stitious attachment to their faith is ao general, that the inhabitants, formerly populous, are now reduced to a few thinly inhabited villages; the chief part of whom have been baptized; for they will not suffer any Mussulman or Gentoo to live within the precincts of uie city; and these few are unable to carry on the husbandry or manufactures of the country. The court of Por- tugal is obliged to send out annually a large sum of money, to defray the current expences of the government; which money is generally swallowed up by the co vents and soldiery. There was formerly an inquisition at this place, but it is now abolished; the building still remains, and by its black outside appears a fit emblem of the cruel and bloody transactions that passed within its walls! Provisions are to be had at this place in great plenty and perfection; the Captain- Ger ral lives in great state. Iviay 13th, saw the light-house at Bombay ; the island of which name is in the possession of the English East India Company; it is situated on the coast of Conkan, in lat. nineteen degrees North, and long, seventy-two degrees thirty-eight minutes East; it was granted, as part of the marriage portion with the infanta of Portugal, to Charles II. The harbour is capable of con- taining three hundred sail of ships, with the greatest safety: there la also a mpst excellent dock, in which ships of his Majesty's squadron, and others, are repaired, refitted, and completely ec;uipped for sea. They build also here all sorts of ve !>els: and the workmen in the yard are very uationi to the Catholic faith; the figures are done to the life, and most admirably executed: it extends to the top in a pyramidieal form, which tonuiuatei with a coronet of mothor>of»pearU • i^.-'^i-a^ ijiijb (.•...ry:(^ w.>:i; *. » I 'Y ' ■•}) M I '^i' 7 mgenioug 596 obsfuvations made on a V iiiffenious and dexterous, not yielding to our bett ahip-wrighta in England, 'this island is very bpautifVin and as populous for its size as any in the world; merchants and others coming to settle bore iVum the different parts of the Deckan, Malabar^ and Coromandel ; as well as the Guzerat country: amongst those of the latter place, are man)' Parsce families ; these are deiiccnded from the remains of the ancient Guchres, or worship- pers of tire: most of the country merchants, as well as the meniat servants of the island, ai'e of this faith. They are very rich, and have in their hands the management of all mercantile affairs. Their religion is much corrupted fVom the ancient worship; they acknowledge that several Hindoo forms and ceremonies have crept in amongst them, probably in compliance to the Natives, in order to conciKate their affections*. The island of Bombay is about eight miles in length, and twenty in circumference: the most remarkable natural curiosity the island produces is a small lish; this fish, according to the description' of a gentleman who has seen it, is in form somewhat like a muscle, about four inches long, and has upon the top of its back, and near the head, a •mall valve, on the opening of which you dis- cover a liquor of a strong purple colour, which; wben dropped on a piece of cloth, retains the hue. It is found chiefly in the months of Sep-* tember and October; and it i» observed the fe- male fish has not this valve, which distinguishes the sexes t- The breed of sheep on this island is very in- different, and all the necessaries of life are much dearer than in any other part of India. A work on this island is worthy of observation; it is a causeway on the southern part, about « mile in length, and forty feet iiPbreadth, eight of which on each side are of solid stone; the remainder in * It seems tlietr sacred book, the Zqm\, which is said tti hftTe been written by their cclcbratod prophet Zcrdusht (called by us Zoroaster} is at present only a copy of u few eeiitorics; which must of cba'rse,'inrklidatcits authenticity ; as that prophet, according Ko the Persian historfans, lired ■lore than three thousand years ago; and indeed it i| an in. disputable fact, that what ri^igiqiis books >ijefe in, Jjij^d^ at the time of the Clrecian conquests of that country, were carefully collected and burnt, by the express orders of Alexander, and w; the streets crosi eltch other at right anglei, and to each is allotted' its- particular raeriliaudisi for sale. Muscat lies in lat. twenty>tbree de^^rei fifteen minntes Ni' opposite to < the Gulpli oq Ormuz, and is governed by an Imauui, or indc change, f he very trace* uf both which hare long since dih aj^pcarcd^ as is cridcnt by the many fniitl^sx elTorls madclJ di^cyphcr those in^criptVoi\s still discernible on thewalhol Persep6li«, bearing not the least analoity to uny rh.irictea now Existing. Iltnco it may Im infprrad,, tha( wlmt is i given as the ancient cfiarocter and lgrL|uage pf thii> rcliilind S^oplc^ is no noro than an iuTention cf a later date, in^ ere rcmalris hot a probability tHitt''their real Zend wi] ever be known. f It is not impcobablo to suppose that this fish is of tiM same nature as the ancient Murex. pr, shQll tisli, byvhid the Romans attained the art of dyeing to such perfcctioaj and i« fiiwUar to that found formody on th? coasts of Tjre w I . J .1 ,. ; i . . . ,. ,,i . pendciil TOUR FROM BENGAL TO PERSIA. irth, a cement of I J whole forming nanyagcs. T|,i, ion with the other! le season of {\\A wise overflow it, I g detained KTenl of a passage, ht| an Arubian shipj 19 (Ml. board an ex<| Dllevtion of Arme* Dthiopiung, hm,\ kted as much coiiJ Iding of the towetl Losalgaie; and on| le to anchor in th ance into this hat- has a bold shore! ns extending abouti I Rosalgatc (whicl)| itph), to Muscat J iiral prospect; tbel l^vcrjfcharacteriali.f The inner harboui) ditiicrently situatedJ isidcrable trade, i^ Persian Gulphs, CoMts of Malabirl iM is'UsuhI in moil lilt, and the streeti A-cv«r, a good am ct, ) roofed at tlitl ler at riglit anglei, ticiilar inercliaudisi wenty-three degrei to 'the Gulpli tq in Imauui, or iudj" 4&* ' ■ . •- ■ ' uch hafCjIoiig since dii. fi.iiitlt;ss efforts madctd c6rniblc on the walls o| lalo^y' to any charjcti snrtd,, that whit ii no« \|iiagepf tliiiiccliilintN ion of a later date, and it' 'their real Zend fill e that this fish is of Ik pr.shqll fish, bywhidi ing tp such perfcctimj on the coasts onj«^ (•/ .If . nendcot prince, oyer thw province of thich Muscat is the capital. This Oman, of province j. Oman is a part of Yemen, or Arabia Felix ; jtbe IinB"«n resides at a distance of two days journey inland, where lie lives in splendour. Hbe whole country round this place is one con- Itiaiied solid rock, without a bude of grass, 6r lijykind of verdure to be seen; but this burren- laei the natives atlirm to be aaiply rocoinpcnsed Ihythe fertility and beauty of the inland country *. Ijeveral Gt-ntoo merchants reside here, for the Itoiiveoience of trade ; also a broker on the behalf lol'thc English East India Complany; but the Ijrovernment will not admit of any European Ihctorv being established. The police in Mnscat Ijjjjiellint. Captain James Mitchell, our fellow- jpyjenjrer, diud, to the great grief of us all: we Ijjyrred him the same day, on shore, at Muscat; liDiitcli ship lying in the hbrbour, commanded I Captain Stewart, saluted the corpse on going ,j shore with nine guns, as did also an English iQow, there at the same time. His funeral was t decently conducted as circumstances would idiiiit, and every attention possible was paid to ti remains. On the ''^nth, we sailed for Dussor.!, and on lie 86ih of February arrived at Abu Shehr, khich is a small sen-port town on the coast of Persia, and is under the government of a Sheich, tiho is tributary to Shirauz. The English East Klia Company have a factory here, but little jiiress is carried on ; caravans come frequently bihis place from Shirauz, and bring the com- yitics of that city, which are exported to dif- [rent parts of India. An opportunity offering Iproceeding to Shirauz, Ensign Franklin em- iacedit, and accordingly determined to iiet out ithacafila or caravan, just then oo the point of Iparture. On the 15th of March, he left Abu lehr; the cafila consisted of about thirty mules, H twenty or thirty horses; these and camels ing the only mode oF-fravelting made use of in ti country. The first day's march was about Lrfursengs, or sixteen English miles; the road [letting out lay over a barren plain, but the I The reflection of the sun from thcsi; rocks must neccs. Ilf cause intense and almost insupportable heats, >vhich iigthu summer season arc so great, that all the natives, Dare able, rbtire inland as soon as they commence: this, ill tu the fatal effects of the smalKpox, for which they lao cure, being ignorant of the application of medicine, 597 latter part of the way coming to some Verdure, they halted at a place called Checanduckf. Tho 16th they travelled four fiirsengs, the most part in the night, and arrived about ciglil o'clock in the iiiorning, near Berazgnon, a considerable and populous village, surrounded by a brick wall, and flanked with turrets; under the do- minion, and dependent of, Shirauz. — Halted that day and the next, for the purpose of sh'oeing the horses and mules belonging to the calila, pre- paratory to ascending the mountains, they were now approaching. On the ISth oncamped near the village of Dnwiakie, distance three fursengs. 19th, entered the narrow pass which is tho road to the four mountains, and is exceedingly difficult, from the great number of loose stones. On the SOth, began to ascend the first mountain, at the distance of six furae-.igs, which is very high, and the road almost impassable, from the vast number of large loose stones that had fiilleu down on each side in the way: near two miles of the latter part of the ascent is almost perpendicular, and so very narrow as only to admit of one person or beast of burden passing at a time: the scene was truly disagreeable and even dangerous, from th6 steep precipices, and frequent slipping and falling of the horses and mules; the only means of safety on one side depended on a small parapet wall, about three feet high; on the other the mountain towering up into the clouds strikes the beholder with an awcful dread ; a broad and rapid river runs at the bottom, which by its roaring adds to the terrific grandeur of the scene. Having attained the summit, there is a level extensive plain; which is about four fursengs, or sixteen miles, in extent; it is situated between the mouiHains, and abounds in game, particularly the red'leggcd partridge, which we saw in great abundance. A little after nine we encamped at the village of Khisht ; where they began to experience a sensible alteration in the weather. At Dowlakic, in the valley below, they were alniost scorched to death with heat; whereas the air on the top of this mountain, and the plain of Khisht, is very sharp and piercing; distance three fursengs. 21stj, causes the people in general to be afflicted with disorders iu thtir eyes; so much so, that you scarcely meet ouo person out of three, who has not visibly suffered from cither of ' the causes above mentionedi + The Persian furseng is the Parasanga of the Greeks^ and is equal in measurement to nearly four English miles. - ■ ■ e . being 1 '; fli tj I ^ 1 ill 1 m i vl 568 OBSERVATIONS MADE ON A being tlie Persian festival of the Nooroze, or New Year's Day, we halted*. 'i^ld, ascended the second mountain, which is still higher than the t'onnrr, but the road not so dangerous; and arrived at the village of Coma- rigcf. This day the> travelled three fursrngs ; un the 2Jd. arrived at the city of Kaxcroon, 4listance five furnengs. On the l^ilth, arrived at the (but of tlu third mountain, situated on the confine of the plain, whore the city of Kazeronn is built; distunrc three fursengs 25th, began to ascend the third mountain, which although uut so high and Nlcep as the two former, yet is sufficiently so to make tlic ascent uneasy and difficult ; a great part of the road on one side is made of masons work entirely, the materials hewn out of the mountain : it has a parapet wall of about three feet high, like the former: its ascent is winding. Arrived in four hours in a most delightful valley, by an easy and gentle descent; entirely covered with a species of the oak and birch, which being situated between two high mountains, is ej.treuiely pleasant ; the air began now to be piercing cold, and the snow lay very thick on the mountain, which they were to pass the next day; proceeded on through the valley; and encamped about nine o'clock at the foot of the fourth and last mountain, in the way to ghirauz; distance travelled this day three fur- sengs. S6th, began to ascend the mountain, which the Persians call the Peera Zun, or the old woman, by way of distinction. This is higher than all the former, and near twelve miles in length. The view from the top is most strikingly romantic, the three preceding moun- tains seeming beneath your feet; the summit is covered with snow, and in many places where the rain had fallen, was ice of considerable thick- ness. Below, on each side, they beheld the ♦ In the ancient times of Persia this day used to be ccle- brate each side are the shops of the tradesmen, mcr- u«|,^ which periods no person is permitted to ' chants, and others, in which are exposed for sule ,i„orout. I a variety of goods of all kinds: these shops are „.jin(l>e city, at the upper end, nearest to j the property of the Khan, and are rented to the JLc Kiig Sh^h, stands the Citadel; which is merchants at a very easy monthly rate. Leading «ill of burnt brick, and is a square of eighty ; out of this bazar is a spacious caravanserai, of an jscircuniferenct, flanked with round towers, octagonal form, built of brick; the entrance encompassed with a dry fosse of the same through a handsome arched gate-way: in the ■ ' ' *' ' '• '• ■' '• - centre is a place for the bagi^age and merchandise, and on the sides above and below commodious apartments for the merchants and travellers; these are also rented at a moderate monthly sum. About the centre of the above-mentioned bazar ia another spacious caravanserai, of a square form, the front of which is ornamented with a blue antl white enamelled work, in order to represent China wars, and has a pleasing effect to the eye. This building is larger than the former, and ii chiefly resorted to by Armenian and other Chris- tian merchants; there are besides separate bazara rn Sbirauz, for the diflerentcompanies of artiflcers, such as goldsmiths, workers of tin, dyers, car- penters, joiners, hatters, and shoemakers; these consist of long streets, built very regularly, and roofed. The Jews have a quarter of the city allotted to themselves, for which they pay a considerable tj(ltl) and depth as that of the city; this is M bv the Persians the Ark, and is also the fkot Kurim Khan: it also serves occasionally laslale prison*. Opposite to the citadel, in a bsntlsome square, is a gallery where the kbaii'i music, consisting of trumpets, kettlu Ituuii. and other instruments, plays regularly liunriiie and sunset. When the Khan is in or on a journey, these are always placed i I tent near h mi: one side of this square leads , the Dew.iu Khan, or chamber of audience, the other opens into a street which leads to (great mosque. The Uewun Khana is a very dionie building, situated at the upper end of i large garden, to which you are conducted Irongb an avenue, planted on each side with I Persian Chinar tree, a species of the sycamore. le chamber of audience is a large building, of loblongform, with an open front; the inside, lilt one-third up the wall, is lined with while tax to government, and arc obliged to make fre jirble from Tauris, and the ceiling and other krU src ornamented with a beautiful gold kiiiielled work, in imitation of the Lapis Lazuli : lere arc several pictures in it; some of which [tolerably well executed. In front there are Irte handsome fountains, with stone basons, jiiich are constantly playing. In the great square quent presents: these people are more odious to the Persians than those of any other faith; and every opportunity is taken to oppress and extort money from them; the very boys in the street being accustomed to beat and insult them, of which treatment tht^y dare not complain. The Indians have a caravanserai allowed thorn a caravanserai allowed tnem in Ifore the Citadel is the Tope Khana, or park of another quarter of the city, for which they are Killery; it consists of several pieces of cannon \ also under contribution. There is a mint at Shi- uunted on bad carriages, most of the guns i rauz where money is coined, the process of which [rbich are Spanish and Portuguese, excepting , is very siniple, like most in other places of the lEnglJHh twenty-four pounders) are so dread- East, the gold or silver being laid in a dye fitted lily honeycombed, that they would certainly pmt on the flret discharge, Atthodoor of tho Ark in a pfiintiiijf, dono In Tory ItlycolourH, rcpresonting tho combat m'twcon tho cole id Pcrniftn hero lloktum, ami Dooro Sifecd, or tho IVoi. II. No. CXIV. for the purpose, and struck with a large hammer, which completes the operation. Here also the White Demon. The story is taken from Feril.iusi's Sh ih Nainch, and the figures aro at full length, but ill.prnpjr. tlouod. . i 7 P public > ' I :l. , ; »; I'l'f |^u'' I BSERVA'nONS MADE ON A SI t. public Scrafs (or money changers) set »»rid rei^ulatc the exchange of gold and silver. Shiraiiz is adorned with many fine mosques, particularly that huilt by the late Kcrim Khan, >Yhich is a noMe one: being very well disguised in a Persian dress, the Ensign had an opportunity of entering the building unobserved; it is of a squiirc form; in the ccnlre is a stone reservoir of water, miide for performing the necessary ab- lijfions or wiishings, previous to prayer; on the four sides of the building arc arched apartments allotted for devotions some of the fronts of which are covered with China tiles; but Kerim Khan dying before the work was completed, the remainder has been made up with a blue and white enamelled work ofthe kind before described. Within the apartments, on the walls, on each side, are engraved various senlences from toe Koran, in the Niskhi character"; and at the upper end ofthe square, is a large dome with a cupola at top, which is the particular place appropriated for the devotion of the Vakeel; this is lined throughout with white marble, ornamented with the curious blue and gold artificial lapis lazuli, and has three large silver lamps suspended from the roof of the dome: here mullahs or priests are constantly employed in reading the Koran. This mosque has very good detached apartments, with places for ablutions and other religious cere- monies; at a little distance, on the outside, the late Vakeel had laid the foundation for a range of "Very handsome buildings, which he designed to have been occupied by mullahs, dervishes, and other religious men; but, dying before the work was brought to perfection, the troubles in Persia since that period have prevented any other per- sons from linishing them, and in this imperfect state they remain at present; much to be regretted, as it would have added greatly to the beauty of the whole. In the centre of the city is another mosque, which the Persians call the Musjidi No6, or th<^ new mosque; but its date is nearly coeval with the city itself, at least since it has bc^n in- habited by Mohammedans: it is a square building of a noble size, and has apartments for prayer •n each side; in them are many inscriptions in the old Cufic characlt r, which of themselves de- note the antiquity of the place ^ in the centre of the square is a large terrace, on which the Per- siaosjperform their devotions, both morning and evening; this terrace is capable of containing upwards of two hundred pcrtons, and is built ■ stone, raised two feet and a half high from (J ground ; there are here two very large cvnn trees of an extraordinary height, whitli the pi sians affirm to 4)ave stood the amazing Icnuth " SIX hundred years: they are called ^lti\^^^i Maashuka, or the lover and his mistress, aiidart held by the people in great veneration, 'fh mosque has a garden adjoining to it, and plaJ necessary for performing ablution!*.' — In arioth! quarter of the city is a square building of a ver| large size, forme; I v ? .college of considerable nou where the arts and sciences were taught; butiij now decaying very fast: at present itgocsbytji name of Mudrussa Khan, or the Khan's coller, and I lie music strikii up, they move them backwards and forwai with great agility, stamping with their feet atll same time, and straining every nerve, till thi produce a profuse perspiration. After contiiitii this exercise about half an hour, the matter the house, who is always I'ue of them, and distinguished by the appellation of Peblwaui or wircstler, makes a signal, upon which tlicv leave oft', quit their clubs, and, joining haiidi a circle, begin to move their feet very briskly unison with the music, which is all the \»bi playing a lively tune. Having continued thisfj a considerable time, they commence wrestli but before the trial of skill in this art begins, •' •/»/■* •„.- mull .^^ 11 TOUR FROM BENGAL TO PI.RSIA. 601 Lwler o( tl»e house addresseg thia company in Imtticulftr speech, in part of which he inforr in a IL candidates, that as they are all rtict in good Ifelloffsliip. 80 ought they to depart, and that in ItiK contest they are about entering into, thpy lilKXild littve no malice or ill-will in their hearts; lilbein"' on'y •*•> honourable emulution, and trial L strength, in which they are going to exert Blieinsftlve?, and not a contentious brawl; he Ibereforc cautions them to proceed in good lumoiir and concord: this speech is loudly ap- iljiided by the whole assembly. The wrestlers Lpjiifiito their diversion, in which the master Lftlic house is always the challenger; and, being iccustoncd to the exercise, generally proves con- fciieror. I'Y throwing each of the company two fcfthrcc times successively. The spectators pay n;haSljahee, in money, equal to three-pence for which they are refreshed during the liversion with a calean and coftec. This mode of [lercise bears some resemblance to the gymnastic ittfcises of the ancients. The baths in Persia are very commodious, and Iffll worthy the attention of a stranger ; they ge- tallv consist of two large apartments, one of basons of warm water, and the person is recon- ducted to the dressing apartment, where he shifts and dresses at leisure, receiving a calean to smok«. The Persians are much more scrupulous than any other Eastern nation in perniitling foreigners to go into their baths, which if attempted with their knowledge, they prevent. During the spring, the baths in Persia are decorated in great finery, a custom distinguished by the natives under the name of Gul Rea-^ee (or the scattering of roses), from tlie vast quaur tity of those flowers strewed in the apartments; this ceremony continues a week or ten days, during which time the guests arc entertained with music, dancing, coffee, sherbet, &c. and the dressing apartment is decked out with paintings, looking-glasses, streamers, and other ornaments, at the expence of tlie master of the humauni, who compliments his customers on the occasion, though a small present is generally made by them to the musicians. The baths are used alternately by men and women every other day. but each sex generally use them once a week, or in every ten days at farthest. The bath built by Kerim Khan is particularly ihicli furnishes an accommodation for undressing, | beautiful; it has for the outer apartment a large ifiitlior is thebaih; on the sides of the first are j hnndsome octagon, to which a light is conveyed incliosof stone, raised two feet from the ground j from the top. To this bath noiie are admitted wliich are spread mats and carpets, where the | but those of a higher rank, it being chiefly used ithcrssit to undress, and froai thence they pro- I by the principal Khans, or officers of the army, to the hath through a long narro*-" passage. ; and their families. k bath is a large room of an ociagon form, | In the centre of the city, adjoining to the itiiaciipcia at top, through which the light Musjidi Noo is a very large building called the idairare admitted; on the sides of this room | Shah Cheraiig. or the king ^ lamp; it is con- esmiil! platforms of wood raised above a foot i sidered as a place of the greatest sanctity about m the ground, on which the people who enter i Shirauz, being the mausoleum of the brother of bathe perform their devotions, a ceremony the i one of their Imaums, or heads of the faith ; this place is of considerable antiquity, nor is ♦he ex- act date of its foundation ascertained ; bus. by an extract from the chronicles of the place, it ap- pears to have been repaired by the celebrated Prince /Vz/ud ud Dowlah Deilerace, of the family of Buyah, who was Emeer ul Omrah to one of the Khali phs of the house of Abbr.s, and was a prince of great abilities, Icaruiug, and piety. He reigned in the fourth century of the Mohammedan llejira. This building was for- merly magnificent, but is now going to ruin. The last person who repaired it was Kerim Khan> who gave it a complete new covering, but since his time it has been neglected, and has suffered much by rain and other accidents, owing to the very [kfsians always prcviotisly observe: at the upper if the room is a large bason or reservoir of jiler, built of stone, well heated by means of stoves (ident the bottom, w ith iron gratings over them ; adjoining is another reservoir of cold water, 'cither of which the bather has his choice. fheii he comes out of the hot bath, which is Wally in the space of ten or twelve minutes, people of the house stand ready to perform (operation of rubbing, and to effect this he is I at full length on his back, with a pillow to bport his head ; a brush made of camel's hair is [n used, which completely rubs otf all the dirt body has contracted. After rubbing some le, they rinse the whole body with several 5 .iii'i I'^l i:.j)i; y ;■ I ^i -hi li- m-M )iiu : Hlf The celebrated bower of Mosdl very great age of the building; which is about nine hundred years: however, there are at pre- sent some of the Iinauin Zadas, or dc^rcndants from their Iraaums, residing in it^ who are sup- ported by the remains of the. former ampfc revenues '." the place. . *?!■,• j^'.* »^ The tomb of the celebrated arid* deservedly ad- mired Hafiz, one of the most famous of the Persian pofets, stands about two miles distant from the city walls, on the North East side, and nearest the gate Shah Meerza Hamza. "Here the late Vakeel Kcrim Khan has erected a most elegant Ivaij or hall, with apartments adjoining: this • tion op Abraham's oO'ering up building is executed in the same style as the j whoiti,thcycail Ismaei. % Dewan Khana, nor has any cost been spared to | A little to the northward pf Hafiz's tomb is render it agreeable: it stands in the middle of a ( magnilicent building, called by the Persians He large garden ; in front of the apartments is a stone | Tun, or the Seven Bodies, on account of sev in the centre of which is a fountain ^v is situate, a quarter of a n^le to the westward of thetomhJ but is en^frelyttn ruins, no trace or vestige maining of tb^ pleasantiVMg*twhich you !j taught to expect on perusing^ihe works oi' Haf J yet one may judge by the situation, which J really a delightful one, that it might former! J have been agreeable. At present tlic couiUrJ round about is rugged and barren, and n 4 serves as a place for celebrating the MoharauicdJ festival of the Ide Korban, or the cereinonie which a^e observs from the poet's own works, roost bcatitifiilly cut in the Persian Nustaiileek character. During the spring and summer seasons, the inuuoitaiili visit here, and amuse themselves with smokinu;, playing at chess, and other games, reading also the works of Hafii, who is in greater est^sem with them than any other of (iuir poets, and they venerate him almost to adoration, never speaking of liiin but in the highest terms of rapture and cnthnsiasm: a most elegant copy of hi! works is kept upon the tomb for the purpose, 4nd the iuspection of all who go there. I 'J'his liall is twenty-seven feet by ii/,'iitecn, and forty feet high; ont-tliird of the height of the hall is lined with white marble from Tauris, and the rest and the cicling are ornamented with blue and gold enamel: it is built oo the SAine plan as those of liatiz and the Dcwila Kltuna, and is d', . • " , Dervishes or religious men, who coming from J greaf distance to reside in this country, tooki their abode on the spot where the above buildin is erected, and there remained until they all im cich bu^^ing the other successively, until t|i only survivor, who was interred by the neighboul upon this spot, and in memory of which cvti Kerim Khan erected a beautiful hall, with J joining apartmentsf. Before the hall is a han some stone reservoir, where the Persians obsefi their ablutions previous to their pcrforniinM 60* OR^FRVATIONS MADE ON A (: strait plantations of sycamore, and cypress trees, planted regularly on each side the walk, in form of avenues, and have parterres of llovvcra in the centre, with stone fountains in different parts of the garden, which add much to the coolness and beauty of them. On the side of the walls are erected scaffoldings of wood, covered over at top ■with thin lathS^ on which the grape vines grow, and form pleasant arbours. As the religion of the Persians is known to be Mohammedan, and as very good accounts have already been given of it, I'shall touch but lightly on the subject; but as they are of the sect of the Sheia*, or followers of Ali, some of their customs, as well religious as civil, may probably differ from those of the Turks, who are of the sect of the Sunnies, or followers of Omar. We shall therefore make a few remarks on what is most worthy of observation in each of them: and lirst respecting their marriages. When the parents of a y»ung man have de- termined upon marrying him, they look out amongst their kindred and acquaintance for a suitable match; in which having succeeded, the /ather or mother of the young man, or sometime.^ liis sister, assemble a company of their friends, and go to the house where the person they intend to demand lives: being arrived, a conversation takes place, in which the business is opened and the match proposed. If the father of the woman be contented with the proposals, he immediately orders sweetmeats to be brought in, which is taken as a direct sign of compliance; and the company ■for that time take leave. Some days after, the females of the family of the man assemble at the house of the intended bride, where the terms of marriage are settled, and the usual presents on the part of the bridegroom are promised. These, if the person be in middling circumstances, gene- rally consist of two complete suits of apparel of the best sort, a ring, a looking-glass, and a small sum in ready money of about ten or tv\'elve tomans, which sum is denominated Mehr u Kaw^en, or the marriage- portion, it being given for the express purpose of providing for the wife in case of a divorce. There is also provided a quantity of household stuff of all sorts, such as carpets, mats, bedding, utensils for dressing Tictuals, &c. After this a writing or contract is drawn up, in the presence of, and witnessed by, the Cadj> or magistrate, or in his absence by an Akhund, or priest: this writing tlie Pert' call Akud Bundle, or the binding ontract " which the father of the bride sets forth, that '3 such a day, in such a year, he has given h'J daughter in marriage to the son of sudi a nor J ( mentioning the name of the bridejyrooni and hi father), who also on his part enumerates t|J difl'crcnt presenfs he makes in his son's naniefotK bride, as well as the stipulated money ralle Mehr u Kaw^en. This writing is sip„.(| ^ J sealed by both parties, as well as the Cadi aol the Mullah, and is deposited in the hands ofthj bride's father, where it always servos as a rccorJ in case of a divorce, to enforce 4he fulfillini;/ the marriage-articles: for on this occasion (iJ husband is obliged to make good the conlraci even to the minutest agreement, before the divorJ can be complete. When this ceremony is finisjiej the marriage by the Mohammedan law is depma perfect. It is, however, observable that portioJ are never given with daughters in Persia, as] the custom in Europe, and in most places of tJ East. Nothing now remains but to cclebralelM nuptials, and this is generally performed t^ second or third day after signing the contract, the following manner: The night before ti wedding, the friends and relations of tlie bri] assemble at her house, attended by music, dancio girls, and other signs of festivity. This niglitl distinguished by the appellation of Shub HinJ Bundee, or the night in which the hands a] feet of the bride are stained with the herbi Ilinna, well known all over the East. PrcTiol to the ceremony, a large quantity of this herb! sent by the bridegroom to the house of the briit and on the day of staining she is first convcvedj the bath, where having bathed, she is broua back to her own house; after which the\ sti her hands and feet, at the same time paintingl eyebrows and forehead with the antimony po»i| called Surma: when this is finished, thcv !ej back what remains of the herb to the house oil bridegroom, where the like operation is pcrlotl cd upon him by his friends. The weddini; ni^ being come, the friends both of the bride i bridegroom, men and women, assemble at house of the bride, in order to carry her to tl of her future husband: they are attended bjj sorts of music, singers, and dancing girls, are dressed in their smartest apparel, cacli of j womeu having on a veil of red silk, Tbcji TOUR FROM BENGAL TO PRRSFA. 1(111 yj which the bridegroom has niiide, are all put •to trays covered with red silk, which are ried on men's shoulders. After waiting at the ijof some time, the bride is brought forth, overcd from head to foot in a veil of red silk, or tinted muslin; a horse is then presented for her mount, which is sent thither expressly by the Ijilegroom; and when she is mounted, a large [^Ijing.glass is held before her by one of the maids, all the way to the house of her iband, as an admonition to her, that it is the [tide' ist time she will look into a glass as a virgin, keing now about to enter into the cares of the Lried state. The procession then sets forward the following order:— first, the music and Ijpjinff girls; after which the presents, in trays lorne upon men's shoulders; next come the re- litionsand friends of the bridegroom', all shouting making a great noise ; who are followed by .bride herself, surrounded by all her female fiends and relations, one of whom leads the [orse by the bridle ; and several others on horse- nek close the procession. Being arrived at the louse of the bridegroom, they are met at the r by the father and mother, and from thence • conducted up stairs; the bride then enters the boin. The bridegroom, who is at the upper W, makes a low obeisance; and presently after, Uing close up to his bride, takes her up in his m and embraces her. Soon after they retire lapiivate chamber; and, on their return to le company, it causes great rejoicings. They fen all sit down to supper in separate apart- «nts, the men eating with the bridegroom in one out, and the women with the bride in another; it leing quite contrary to custom for the women to ■tin company with the men on this occasion. Tredding-supper is prolonged to a late hour hlie night, with cheerfulness and festive mirth. [Rejoicings in Persia for a wedding generally Uinue eight or ten days. If, after marriage, [man should be discontented with his wife Khich is sometimes the case in this as in other kuntries), he is at liberty to divorce her; a Ian, by the Mohammedan law, being always pabled to put his wife away at discretion: this performed by giving her every thing he had [omised previous to marriage, and by rc-demand- jthe contract of his wife's relations. The cere- lony of divorce is called by the Persians Tellaak. again^ afte. the divorce, the husband should be inclined to take his wife back, he is at liberty so to do, and this for three times successively; and when it so happens, the contract must be re- newed each time: but after the third time he is expressly forbidden to re-uiarry the same woman. With respect t<» the number of wives a man has, although by the Mohammedan law be is certainly allowed as many as he is able to maintain, yet in general, amongst the Persians, that person is most esteemed who attaches himself to one. Contracts of marriage in Persia, as well as in many otiier countries in the East, are often m:ida between families at a very early period; and al- though consummation docs not take place till many years after, yet the woman contracted cannot divorce herself, or be absolved from the contract, unless by the consentof her betrothed husband, ex- cept on forfeiture of a considerable sum of money. The same is also binding on the part of the man. A widow in Persia is obliged to wait four months after the death of her husband before she is per- mitted by law to marry again. At the christening, or rather naming, of chil- I dren, in Persia, the following ceremony is ob- served: The third or fourth day after the child is born, the friends and relations of the woman who i has lain-in assemble at her house, attended by music and dancing girls, hired for the occasion; 1 after playing and dancing sometime, a Mullah, I or jiriest, is introduced, who taking the child in : his arms, demands of the mother what name she j chuses the infant should be called by; being told, i he begins praying, and after a short time applies. J his mouth close to the child's ear, and tells him I distinctly three times (calling him by name) to re- I member and be obedient to hi* father and mother, to venerate his Koran and hi*-- Prophet, to abstain I from those things which are unlawful, and to practise those things which are good and virtuous. Having repealed the Mohammedan profession of faith, he then re-delivers the child to his mother; after which the company are entertained with sweetmeats and other refreshments, a part of which the females present always take care to carry away in their pockets, believing it to be the infallible means of their having oil'spring them- selves. The ceremony of the Sur ut, or circum- cision, in Persia, is generally j/erformed during the Chehula, or space of forty days from the bird: of the child; as within that period it is loss dangerous, than at a more advanced age. Some there •V-^ 1 ' I i t,;, mm fh:'' .# 606 On^RRVATlONS MADI-: ON A I If !■ li ! 't i:? p- I f : there arc, liowevcr, who do not undergo Ihe operation until the expiration of seven or eight years; but it is aliioltitciy necesdary that it should take place before the aijc of fourteen, as after that tune it is deemed luilawful: on this oceasion the i)areiits of the child invite their relations and friend-i to an enterlaimnent. The operation is performed after the Jewish ritual, and in the manner pr;uiised by the Mussulmen of India. 'l'li(> funerals of the Persians are conducted in a similar manner to those in other Mohammedan countries. — On the death of a Mussulman, tlte relations and friends of the deceased being assem- bled, n>ake loud lamentations over the corpse; after which it is washed and laid out on a bior, and carried to the place of interment without the city walls, attended by a iMullah, or priest, who chaunts passai^es from the Koran all the way to the grave. If any Mussulman should chance to meet the corpse during the procession, he is obliged, by the precepts of his religion, to run up to the bier, and otl'er liis assistance in carrying it to the grave, crying (uit at the same time," " L,)h Jlldli III Dllali!" i. e. " Thar if, no God hut God." After interment, the relations of the decciued return home, and the women of the family make a mixture of wheat, honey, and spices, which they eat in memory of the deceased, sending a part of it to their iViends and ac- quaintance, that they also may pay him a like honour. The Persians are very strict in respect to the price of blood, or Lex Talionis, this being laid down and authorised as a positive command in tlie Koran; it is called /A7mL At Siiirauz, if a man murders another person, he is obliged to pay a Dciut, either in money or goods, to the value of eight hundred piastres, which is to be received by the relations of the deceased; but if this is not agreed to, and the relations insist upon it (the acceptance being entirely optional), the nuirderer is to be delivered up to the nearest of kindred to the person slain, and is by them put to death; but should it so happen that the mur- derer escapes, the two families are at per|)etual variance, until full satisfaction be made, either by paying the price of blood, as related, or ap- * There is yet, however, anothor mudo of compromise ; which is, the relations of (he iiuinlerer giving in marriage a, casi>, tho (wo f.imilicsl) liatiua is ahyays conn>lcU'. TOUR FROM BF.NGAL TO PRRSIA. €01 n: Caleaol Calcan, or the smallest drop of water, reaches their Hps* ^^^ ^^^^ '* '" consequence deemed broken, and of no avail. From sun-set until the next morning they arc , Mowed to refresh thcm- iclvea*. From this fast, women under particular tircumstances relative to their sex, very old pcr- tbe sick, and children under the age of I fourteen, are exempted: every other person is [{njoined to keep it, as absolutely necessary lo (lalvatioii. Travellers also, during this month I (when on actual journey), arc exempted from I observing the fast; but in lien thereof arc obliged, lontbeir return home, to fast an equal number of ^.vj in another month : though the Persians say, I [bat one day's fast in the month of Ramazan is I more acceptable to God than all the remainder Lf the year put together f. People of a religious Iturnof mind begin this fast seven or eight days Ikfore Ramazan, and some continue it as many linore during the succeeding month. The 23d of September, which this year (1787 Ijl, D.) happened on the 10(h of the Moham- linedan month Zu al Huj, A. H 1^201, is kept in Ipersia as a grand festival, and was celebrated at Isbirauz with extraordinary rejoicings; it is called Ibjilie Persians Ide Korban, or the festival of liacrificc; being the same, they say, as that in jwhich Abraham offered up his son Isaac, whom jthey call Ismael. A few days previous to its TtODimencement, each family takes care to purchase » This fast, when the month Uamaziin fulls in the middle Lfsuiiimer, as it sometimes must do (the Moliammedan year |lieini| iimiir), is extremely severe, especially to those who jircobligod by tliiii- occupations to go about during the day. nimc, and is still rendered more so, as there arc also several hi^hls during i(s existence which they are enjoined to spend »i|iri)i'r. The Persians particularly observe two; the one bciiigtli.it in which their prophet Aii died, from a wound liicii ho received from the hands of an assassin three days leforc; which night is (ho !i(st of Ramazan, the day of »liiili is railed by the natives Yeom al Kutnl, or the day fcf rannlcr; — the other is the night of the 2S(I, in which Iballinii that tlie Koran was brought down from Heaven Ivlhc hands of the Angel Gabriel, and delivered to their krophi't Mohammed, wherefore it is denominated fjuilnt iil Kudur, or (he night of power. The fust of these nights |lic Turks and others of the sect of the Siinnies do not ob- \trn\ and the latter they keep on the night of the '27th; liithuih nights are spent by the I'ersiam entirely in prayer ; Ifiiili'S wJiieh, the most religious men generally allot a part If each day in (ho mouth for the purpose of reading the Toraii. t This month, by way of eminence, is styled by the Roliainmcdans A I Mubarik, or tliu blcsicd: and tbcy aiHrm Vol. II. No. CXV. a fine fat sheep, which they design for the sacri- fice, distinguished by the name of Ousefund Korbun, or the sheep of sacrifice; this sheep they take great care of, and he must be witIioutsp()t or blemi.sh in order to represent the purity of Isaac. The day being come, they adorn the victim with ribbands, beads, and other finery; also staining his face, feet, and different parts of his body with the herb Hinna. The neighbours reciprocally visit each other, and exchange the wish of a happy Ide or festival. Their mode of salutation is "Ide Shhmd Muhcirik bihhed! i. c. " May i/oiirfestiv( .' be fortunate !" The victim being slain, they send the difl'ercnt p*rts of hira as presents to their friends and to the poor. Some, indeed, do not reserve any part for thenMelves; but every Mussalman is enjoined by his religion to give a part of what he kills that day to the in- digent, who generally find means to uiakc a com- fortable meal. The day is spent in the utmost festivity;);. No place in the world produces the necessaries of life in greater abundance and perfection than Shirauz; nor is there a more delightful spot in nature to be conceived, than the vale in which it is situated, cither for the salubrity of the air, or for the profusion of every thing necessary to ren- der life comfortable ancl agreeable. The fields* yield plenty of rice, wheat, and barley, which they generally begin to reap in the month of that whatever Mussulmans die during it, will Diost assuredly enter into Paradise; as they believe the gates of I'.caTcn aro (hen opened by the command of Ciod. + Among those of higher rank, the following ccreroonics are observed: The Khan, or in his al)sence the Beglerbeg, goes in proce.«sion to the place of sacrifice, which is without the city, and is called the Korban Gah. A favourite camel, chosen for the occasion, is led forth, which is dressed out in great finery, and is considered as sacred. On their arrival at the place, (he Khan tirst strikes a lance into the breast of the animal, and the crowd are permitted (o rush in, by which he is presently cue into a thonsanil ])ieces ; and happy in their estimation is the person who can procure the least portion of him, as they look upon it a great blessing, and an infallible omen of future good for. tune. The procession returns to the city, where a sca(foId. ing is erected before the palace, and the people arc enter, taiiied with rope.dancing, singers (male and female), tumblers, ranuiigbting, and other diversions, until evening. The I'ersians, on this occasion, hav« all of them by heart an ode made for the day, which they repeat as they walk the streets; and chverfuluess, with couteoiuieatj sits us\ every cuuiiluuance.* m- Mi:,k '.i ' 'ii* ■y "1 s ! 111 HI ' i 'il 7BI Majr, 608 OBSERVATIONS MADE ON A ii May, and by the middle of July the harvest is cuinpleted. Most of the European fruits are produced here, and many of them arc superior in si/c jind flavour to what can be raised in Europe, particuhirly the apricot and grape. Of tlic grape of Sliirauz (here are several sorts, all of them very ji;oo(l, but two or three more particularly so than the rest; one is the large white grape, called llocsli Baba, without seed, which is extremely luscious and agreeable to the taste; the small white grape, called Askeri, also without seed, and as sweet as sugar; the black grape, of which the celebrated wine of Shirauz is made*. The •wine of Shirauz is really delicious, and well- deserving of praise; so much so, that people who have drank it for a space of time seldom care for any other, though at the first taste it is rather unpleasant to an European. They have another kind of large red grape, called Sahibi, the bunchtrs of which weigh seven or eight pounds each: it is isliarp and rough to the taste, and makes vinegar of a very superior quality. The cherries here are butindiiFerent; but apples, pears, melons, peaches, quinces^ nectarines, and the gage plums, are all \ery good, and in the greatest plenty. The pomegranate is good to a proverb; the Persians call it the fruit of Paradise. The breed of horses in the provin«e of Ears is at present very indifferent, owing to the ruinous *;tate of the country; but in the province of Dushtistaan, lying to the south-west, it is re- uiarkably good. The sheep arc of a superior flavour, owing to the excellerjce of the pasturage in the neighbourhood of Shirauz, and are also celebrated for the fineness of their (leece: they Iiave tails of an extraordinary size, some of w hicli weigh upwards of thirty pounds; but those which are sold in the markets do not weigh above six or seven. Their oxen are large and strong, but their flesh is seldom eaten by the natives, who confine themselves chiefly to that of sheep and fowls. Provisions of all kinds are very cheap; and the neighbouring mountains aftording an ample supply of snow throughout the year, the meanest artificerofShirauzmay have his water and fruits cooled without any ex pence worthy his con- sideration ; this snow being gathered on the tops of * Thus wine is pressed by the Armenians and Jews, in the months of October and November, and a va.st deal is exported annually to Abu Shchr, and other parts in the Persiaa Qulph, fur (he supply af the India market. the mountains, and brought in carts to the cil I is sold in the markets. The provisions is rcic'' lated at Shirauz with the greatest exactness "b' i the Darogha, or judge of the police, who sets J fixed price upon every article, and no slion. keeper dares to demand more, under the sever penalty of losing his nose and cars; such beimr the punisluuent attached to a crime of this natur- by which the poorest inhabitants are clicctualU secured from imposition, in so capital au article as the necessaries of life. Manufactures and trade are at present o-reatly decayed in Persia, the people having liad'^no jij. terval of peace to recover themselves since tliei death of Kerim Khan to the present period: butifl a regular and permanent government were once I again to be established, there islittle doubt butthey would nourish, as the Persians are very inj^eiiious of quick capacities, and even the lower class of ar- tificers are industrious and diligent. They work in filligree and ivory remarkably well, and are good turners. They have at Shirauz a gJaiJ manufactory, where they cast very good f>I,iss I of which great quantities are exported to dilFcrcnt parts of Persia; by which the manufacturers ac- quire considerable profit. Most of the wooilenl goods, hill;^ and worked linens, are brought from I Yezd and Carmanin, from both of which places I they also export felts and carpets. A greatl quantity of copper is produced from Tauris, andl other of the more northern parts of Persia. Koinl is remarkable for excellent sword-blades. Lidial goods are imported chiefly from Abu Shchr. iJ matters of trade amongst the natives, the \vhcle| is tinder the regulation of the Caloonltr, orl town-clerk, who regulates the duties to be paiilj to the Khii.u on all imports: this is somciinitil executed with a severity which leaves the luor- chant little or no profit upon his goodsf. All| goods are opened here, even to the niuancit ar- ticle, and a duty is exacted upon c\cry tliiiigl foreign. Tile climate of Shirauz is one of the niostl agreeable in the world, the extremes of tolJ audi heat being seldom felt. During the spring ofl the year the face of the country appears uncom-' monly beautiful. The floweis, of which tlievi + The Caloontrr h is an apar(mftnt in (he grand Carmn.l serai, where iilinself or his assu'ant resides, w ho is calliiij the (loom Hook, or Custonunmstcr and is always iirescull on the arrival of a caruTan, J liavel TOUR FROM nPNGAL TO PERSIA. OK. 609 tbe sw ., gjgreat variety, and of Oie brightest hues, | cipal reasons that the cdobrated ruins of Perse- , j-jagriint herbs, shrubs, and phuils, the rose, polis hiive endured for so inanv ajjes, and com- veet basil, and tlic myrtle, ull here con- paralively speaking, in so peril-ct a state; ; (if l«iveto°a(id to the satisfaction of the mind, and j extraordinary brightness. 'J'he l*eisians, vvitb tribute to refresh and porlinne the natural mild- „fjs of the air. The nightingale of the garden ,jjiy by the Persians BoolbiU Ilezar Dastann*), [l,f jjoldtnich, and tlie linnet, by their melodious Ljrbliiigs. at this delightful season of the year. It,) inspire it with the most pleasing ideas. The L'jjutics of nature arc here depicted in their fullest latent; the natural historian and the botanist Louldhere meet with ample scope for pursuing lllieir favourite investigations. \Vith such ad- Kjiitarres, added to the salubrity of the air, how 1(111 it be wondered at, that tnc inhabitants of Kliirauz should so confidently assert the pre- respect to outward hehaviowr, are ciMtninlv tho Parisians of the Kast. Whilst a rude 'ind indolent demeanour peculiarly marks the character of the Tiukish nation towards foreigners and Chrisuau:3, the behaviour of the Persians would, on the con- trary, do honour to the most civilized nations: they are kind, courteous, ciul, and obliging to all strangers, without being guided by those leiiiimiice of their own city to any other in the religious prejudices so very prevalent in every lvorl(l?---or that such beauties should fail of ' other Mohammedan nation; they are fond of Ifalling forth the poetical exertions of a Ilaliz, a ; enquiring after the manners and customs of RaJi, or a Jami? Their mornings and evenings Europe; and, in return, very readily afford any ifc cool, but the middle of the day is very plea- information in respect to their own country. jaut, In summer the thermometer seldom rises , The practice of hospitality is with them so grand' Ebove seventy- three in the day time, and at night a point, that a man thinks himself highfy honour- t OTiicrally sinks as low as sixty-two. The ed if you will enter his house and partake of mliiran is the worst season of the year, that being ; what the family affords ; whereas going out of a ktime when the rain begins to fall, and during \ house, without smoking a Calean, or taking any kautumnal months it is considered by the natives i other refreshment, is deemed, in Persia, a high gthe most unhealthy; colds, fluxes, and fevers j affront; they say that every meal a stranger par- leing very general. In winter, a vast deal of , takes with them brings a blessing upon the tow falls, and very thick, but ice is, rarely to be housef. ^und, except on the summits of the mountains. The Persians, in their conversation, use such ftowards Ispahan, and the more northern parts extravagant and hyperbolical compliments bnthe Persia. One thing, which is most to be i most trifling occasions, that it wou'd at f'rst in- denied ill this country, and renders it preferable ! spire a stranger with an idea, that every inhabitant ail) other part of the world, is their nights, of the place was willing to la} down his life, Ibicli are always clear and bright, and the dew, ' shed bis blood, or spend his money in his service?- latin iiK-st places is of so pernicious and danger- | and this mode of address (which in fact means lisa nature, is not of the least ill consequence \ nothing) is observed not only by those of a higher krc: tliere is none at all in summer, and in the \ rank, but even amongst the meanest artificers, jlher seasons it is of such a nature, that if the j the lowest of which will make no scruple, on your arrival, of offering you the city of Shiran/ and all its appurtenances, as a peishknsh or pre- sent. This behaviour appears at first very re- markable to Europeans, but after a short time ligliii'st scimitar should be exposed to it all the Iglit, it would not receive the least rust. This Iviiess ill the uir causes their buildings to last a [eat Nvhile, and is undoubtedly one of the prin- l»Tlie nighliiifjalc with a tlirjusand notes. 1+ Toaccoiiiit for this, ue in iist understand it as a [jlivlire Ifallli and |)rotC(Ui<>n, when we cunsidur that die cuntiniial Irs in which this conntry has been intolved, with very llfi'Cjsaiioii, since tiic extinction of the Sefi family, have latly tended to aii universal depravity of dispositiuti; and a pcrpetnal inclination to acts of hostility. This hns lessened that softness an;! iirbanily of manners for wliicii this natioa has been at all former times so f.iniou>; ; and lias at tlu sanitf time too much e\tinii;uished al! s^-ntiinents of honour and humanity amouisst those of higher rank. rltli;' i.-Ji becomes W. *i? '. Ill :i '\^.W \ \ % I «10 OBSERVATIONS MADE ON A becomes equally familiar. Freedom of conversa- tion iH A thing entirely unknown in Persia, as that " u'alls have cars" is proverbially in the mouth of every one.— The fear of chains which bind their bodies has also* enslaved their minds; and their conversation to men of superior rank to themselves is marked with >ii^U9 of the most abject Hnd slavish submission; while, on the contrary, they arc as haughty and overbearing to their in- feriors. The Persians, in their conversation, aim much at elegance, and are perpetually repeating verses and passages from the works of their most favourite poets, ilaiiz, Sadi, and Jami ; a prac- tice universally prevalent, from the highest to the lowest; because those who have not the ad- vantages of reading and writing, or the other benefits arising from education, by the help of their memories, which are very retentive, and what they learn by heart, are always ready to bear their part in conversation. They also de- light much in jokes and quaint expressions, and are fond of playing upon each other; which they sometimes do with great elegance and irony. There is one thing much to be admired in their conversations, which is the strict attention they always pay to the person speaking, whom they never interrupt on any account. They arc in ge- neral a personable, and in many respects a hand- some people; their complexions, saving those who are exposed to the inclemencies of the wea- tO£r, are as fair as Europeans. The women at Shirauz have at all times been celebrated over those of other parts of Persia fur their beauty, and not without reason. Many are tall and well-shaped ; and their bright and spark- ling eyes is a very striking beauty: this, however, is in a great measure owing to art, as they rub their eye-brows and eye-lids with the black powder of antimony (called surma), which adds an incomparable brilliancy to their natural lustre. The large black eye is in most estimation among the Persians, and this is the most common at Shirauz. As the women in Mohammedan coun- tries are, down to the meanest, covered with a veil from head to foot, a sight is never to be ob- tained of them in the street; but in their houses they sometimes unveil themselves, and converse with familiarity. The women in Persia, as in all Mohammedan nations, after marriage, are very little better than slaves to their husbands. Those mild and familiar endearments which zn I the social board of an European, and which!! the same time they afford a mutual satisfadi,,, to either sex, tend also to refine and polish man I ners, are totally unknown in Mohammedan coiin!| tries. The husband, of a suspicious temper, mdi chained down by an obstinate and perneverini?| etiquette, thinks himself affronted even by thai inquiry of a friend after the health of his wife | Calling her by name, is never allowed of; tli» mode of address must be, '< May the mother oh such a son, or such a daughter, bu happy; r hope she is in health." And none, except tliosei of the nearest kin, as a brother, or uncle, grj ever allowed to see the females of the family uaJ veiled: it would be deemed an insult. ThePcJ sian ladies, however, during the days of court] ship, have in their turn pre-eminence; amijtre! making no scruple of commanding hcrlovertd stand all day long at the door of her father'] hound even the boys are fond of running tu thed in order to have a share in the contention. their capacities they are ready, prompt, andiJ genious: but these talents they too often cmpla in the most discreditable way, being the grcala liars in the world, practising the most improbabl falsities with the gravest air imaginable; andi far from being abashed by a detection, ill always endeavour to turn it off with a laugl and even confess themselves, that they think tliej is no hf^rmiu telling a lye, provided it caubej i ' ai| !•'■ TOUR PROM BENOAT, TO PRnsiA. Gil I l,j,nefit(otlieniselvM: and tliej^ will always, iLery business they are engajjed in, endeavour lifit to bring it about by lying and knavery; Kbicb, if nnsiiccessful (as those with whom Ley deal »'■''* lull as expert as themselves), they I jll (iicn conclude the bargain with truth and Ibncsty; but either way is equally indiifercut to riip Pcisians universally have a fixed belief in lie efficacy of charms, omens, talismans, and ither superstitions. Besides whai they have re- fived since their conversion to IVIohammedanisni, Ly have in general retained all that their an- pfrtori before practised. Indeed, the only dif- ifcnce is, that what was before authorised and joaimandcd by the Magian religion, has been jibjequently allowed by the religion of Moham- iti They are, of all people, the most addicted J the idea of fortunate or auspicious days and loiin, the dies fasti atque n^asti of the Romans; [even on the minutest and most trifling occa- koDS will seek for a lucky moment. Going a Iturney can never be performed vttithput first MHulting a book of Omens, each chapter of bbich begins with a particular lett;>r of the ypliabet, which is deemed fortunate or in- ispicious; and should they unluckily pitch [pon one of the latter, the journey roust of guf^ be delayed imtil a more favourable op^ trtuuity. Entering a new house, the putting of a new garment, with numberless other Dinon and trifling occurrences, are deter- lioed by motions equally absurd and frivolous. ilheir marriages they pay the strictest attention I point; a lucky hour for signing the con- Hct, and another for the wedding-day, being beemed absolutely necessary to the future hap- ymi of the intended couple. Those also who in good circumstances, generally send for a lluunjim, or astrologer, at the birth of a child, I order to calculate his horoscope with the ut- iiost eiactncss. [To a man they have their Talismans, which 'generally some sentence from the Koran, or Ijing of their prophet Ali, written either upon ■per, or engraved upon a small plate of silver, Ibich they bind round their arms, and other I* During the lumincr season, scorpions appear in great gibers; (hey are quite black in appearance, and very 'gr, aad the sting of them is dangerous, but not mortal : Ke, liQwefer, which are found ia the mora Dorthcrn I Vol. II. No. CXV. parts of the body; but those of higher rank make use of rubies, emeralds, and other precious stones. The women of condition have small silver platti of a circular form, upon which are engraved sentences from the Koran; which, as well as the Talismans, they bind about their arms witli pieces of red and green silk, and look upon them as never-failing charms against the fascinations of the Devil, or wicked spirits, and who they say are constantly roaming about the world, to do all the mischief in their power. They are equally absurd in their ideas of the heavenly bodies, at least the middling and lower class of people, particularly in respect to the falling of the stars, eclipses of the sun and moon, and tlie appearances of meteors and comets. As for their religious system, they believe there are nine heavens, the lowest of which is that iminodiatcly above theic heads: they imagine, therefore, th:it on tho falling of a star, it is occasioned by the angels in the lower heaven giving blows on the heads of the devils, for attempting to penetrate into thoso regitms. Among other customs of a superstitious nature, they believe that scorpions, of which there are great i>umbers in this country, and very venom- ous, may be deprived of the power of stinging, by means of a certain prayer which they make use of. The person who has the power of bii.ding, as it is called, turns his face towards the sign Scorpio, in the heavens, which they all know, and repeats this prayer. Every person, present, at the conclusion of a sentence, cl ps his hands; after this is done, they think that they are perfectly safe: nor, if they should chance to see any scorpions during that night, do they scruple taking hold of them, trusting to the eflicacy of this fancied al'-no\yerful charm*. Tlie Persians are, of all Mohammedan nations, the least scrupulous in drinking wine, as many of them do it publicly, and aluiust all of them in private (excepting those wiio have performed the pilgrimage to Mecca, and men of religion): they also are very liable to be very quarrelsoiue wheii inebriated, which is often attended with fatal consequences. They eat opium, but in much less quantities than the Turks; and indeed iu parts of Persia, .irnl particularly iu the province of Cashdn, are of »o dangerous a nature, as oftuu to causo immodiata death. r . ( i' 'i lli'i I M J. !• i^ m \' il'v'Jk. TS every ev2 OBSERVATIONS MADE ON A ' I every thine they lay or do. eat or drink, they make a point to be as diflerent from thin nation as possible, whom they detest beyond measure; cstceminii^ Jews and Chrittians superior to them, and mucli nearer to salvation. I\IattcrH of religion in Persia are managed by tlic Shcili)i us Sellaum, or the Head of the Faith, an ofhce answering to that of Mufti among the Turks. lie takes cognixnnce of all ecclesiastical matters, and on |)ublic festivals and other occa- sions prcnchps in the grand mosque; but he has not, like tlie Mufti, any power in affairs of state, being entirely confined to his religious office. In point of drcsB, the Persians differ remarkably from the Turks; f^or in Turkey any person who ivas not u Seiud, or descendant of the Prophet, tvearing the least green upon his garment, would most pi obably be stoned : whereas in Persia, the general unci favourite colour is green, even to their shoes; and people of all persuasions and denominations may wear it as they please. A Turk also thinks himself defiled by the touch of a Christian, even on his garments. The Persians, on the contrary, will eat out of the same plate, drink out of the same cup, and smoke out of the tame Calcan, as readily as they would with their own childrei). The Persians, in some parts of their devotions, differ from the Turks, as they always pray with their open hands; whereas those of the Turks are closed and placed before them. The Persians also, in their ablutions, before prayer, wash their faces and beards with their right hand only, the other being reserved for meaner occasions, and they only slightly touch the fore and hind part of their feet; but the Turks wash with both hands, and rub all over their feet. The Jai^ Numaz, or carpet on v^hich they pray, is always endeavoured to be placed with the upper part of it facint^ (o the temple of Mecca, but this they only gyesst A. In religious opinions they are far more tolerant than the Turks: they acknowledge the authority of the Old and New Testament, which they say \vcre sent from heaven, and delivered to Moses and Christ, equally with the Koran ; only they afRrm that the last was given to purify and cor- rect the errors of the two former, which they pretend have been much corrupted from their original state, both by Jews and Christians. They acknowledge Jesus Christ to have been a great prophet, but deny him to have been the Son of God, and the Saviour of Mankind' pretend that their prophet Mohammed iithel' or seal of the prophets, the number of which they say, amounts to one hundred and tweotf] live thousand; from which circumstance he J called Khatim al Ambeai, or the Seal of ti Prophets. In their opinion, all nations are be converted to Mohammedanism on the day judgment; and on that day the people ofejci faith (lying to their particular prophet for pf, tcction, shall by him be screened and defended from God's wrath through mediation, and fiaali) become all of one faith, which is to be Muhani medanism. In like manner they apply rnan things to their own Impostor, which only b«|on to our Saviour. The mode of living of the Persians is in gen.. as follows: They always rise at day-break' order to perform their devotions. Their fin prayer is denominated Numaz S(»obh, or th morning prayer; it is said before sun-rise, aft which they eat a slight meal, called Nashla, breakfast ; this consists of grapes, or any othq fruits of the season, with a little bread, am cheese made of goat's milk; they after warditdriiil a cup of very strong coffee, without milk sugar; then the Catean, or pipe, is introduo. The Persians, from the highest to the Iowa ranks, all smoke tobacco. Their second hoi of prayer is called Numaz Z6hur, or roid-du prater, and is always repeated when thesund^ dines from the meredian. Their dinner, or Cail which is soon after this prayer, consists of cun, bread, and fruits of various kinds; animal fooj not being usual at this meal. The third hoiiri prayer is called Numaz Asiir, or the aftemoel prayer, said about four o'clock. The fourl hour of prayer is Numaz Sham, or eveniii prayer, which is said after sun- set; whentJiiij finished, the Persians eat their principal nieil called Shami, or supper. This gcneriilly fODjisI of a Pilau, dressed with rich meat-saucts, aoj highly seasoned with various spices: sometini( they eat Kibaab, or roast meat. When ilicnuj is ready, a servant brings notice thereof, and the saRie time presents an ewer and water; tliel then wash their hands, which is an invariabl custom with the Persians, both before and m eating. They eat very quick, convening tliej food to their mouths wil)i their fingers; thciij of kaiycs and forks being unknown in Perii| Siierbi <'/.'.* (.- TOUR FROM BKVGAL TO PERSfA. 613 l^of diflerent totta arc introduced, and tho .^1 conclude! with a dessert of deliiioui fruits Rhe lupper being finished, the family sit in ii Irifclei •"** entertain each other by relating UiMnt stories (of which they are excessively Ld), »•>*• *'*" "'y repeating passages from Uio lofks of their niQst favourite poets, and umusini^ lenuelve* at various kinds uf games. The fifth [lait prsyer is styled Numaz Akhir, the last bfiyer; or sometimes Numaz Sh^b, or the night inrer,' repeated about an hour after supper. the city of Shirauz is divided into twelve dis- L(t>, or neighbourhoods; over each of which ■ of their fmaums, or Heads of Faith, is be- ieftd to preside, as a kind of guardian angel. fvery Thursday night, which the Persians call nirht of Friday, the cryefs and other do- itici of the mosques make a Zikir, that is, a recital of the life and good actions of the Imaum or Saint who presides over the districts, by whose influence tli« inhabitants hope to obtain their wishes, and be absolved from their sins. These Imaums are alluded to by the Persians in their conversations; tlicy swear by them, and invoke them on all occasions of distress and adversity, as well us return them thanks on any goud fortune befalling them. — The mosquo!) of the Imaum Zadas, or descendants from the Iniaiinis, serve as sanctuaries for criminals ; but the most sancti- fied place in Shirauz, and which no one ever violates, is the Shah Clieraiig, where the greatest criminal can be protected, if the inhabitants of the place should receive him. However, persuna oflensivc to government are generally delivered up when demanded. SECTION II. Iskri Account of the Remains of the celebrated Palace of Persepolis — Visit to the Tomb of tJi^ Persian Hero Rostum — Mode of Travelling in Persia — Citij of Bussora. ^N Thursday evening, the 30th of August, Ensi|<;n Franklin left Shirauz in company Hh Mr. Jones, for the purpose of visiting the lju of the celebrated palare of Persepolis. lenext morning they arrived at the viUage of jirkan, situated eight fursengs, or '!,I:ity-two Iggliih miles, from Shirauz. The road to this jlict is chiefly through a rocky, mountainous unlry; approaching, however, to Zarkan, is ne cultivated land. Zarkan is a large village der the government of Shirauz, and is ruled by ICalentar, or chief magistrate. From its vicinity I tbe mountain, the view of this place is very u.ing; the neighbourhood produces the large I grape. IScpiember the 1st, they crossed the Bund ineer river, which Mr. Niebuhr has laid down the ancient Araxes; over this river is a stone lidpp, which the natives call Pool Khan. They loreciled on through the plain, and in five lurs itnd a half arrived at the rnins. This stage jfivc fursengs: the road lies entirely through the Vn, wiiith beginning about five miles to the lithward of Zarkan, is continued up to Pcrse- llis, which is situated close under the moun- ; ,'f. -1 taint. Their Cafila encamped in a garden a mile and a half to the northward of the ruins, near the village of Merdasht, from whence the whole plain takes its name. This plain is exceedingly delightful; it abounds in game of several sorts, amongst which are partridges, wild pigeons, quails, and hares. What remains of the celebrated palace of Per- sepolis, is situated on a rising ground, and com- maiids a view of the extensive plain of Merdasht. The mountain Rehumut encircles the palace in the form of an amphitheatre: you ascend to the columns by a grand stair-case of blue stone, con- taining one hundred and four steps. The first object that strikes the beholder on his entrance, are two portals of stone, about fifty feet in height each; the sides are embellished with two sphinxes of an immense size, dressed out with a profusion of bead-work, and, contrary to the usual method, they are represented standing. On the sides above are inscriptions in an ancient character, the meaning of which no one hitherto lius been able to decypher. At a small distance from these portals you ascend another flight of otcps, which lead to the! fraiij 4 >»t \ "\ u ' {li It . J .,1- ' I Ml r: u m tiW ii .;iif ^]ft f M Vt iV iiffli* •ir I: 614 OnSFRVATIONS MADR ON A grand hall of columns. The sides of this stair- case nrc ornamented with a variety of figures in basso relievo; moat of them have vessels in their hands: here and there a camel appears, and at other times a kind of triumphal car, made after the Roman fashion ; besides these, are several led horses, oxen, and rams, that at times inter- vene and diversify the procession. At the head of the 'stair-case is another basso relievo, repre- senting a lion seizing a hull: and, close to this, are other inscriptions in ancient characters. On getting to (he top of this stair-case, you enter what was formerly a most magnificent haU : the natives have given this the name of Chehil Minar, or forty pillars; and though this name is often used to express the whole of the building, it is more particularly appropriated to thi^ part of it. Although a vast number of ages have elapsed since the foundation, tifteen of the columns yet remain entire; they are from seventy to eighty feet in height, and are masterly pieces of mason- ry : their pedestals are curiously worked, and appear little injured by the hand of time. The lihafts are cufluted up to the top, and the capitals are adorned with a profusion of fret-work. From this hall you proceed along, eastward, until you arrive at the remains of a large square building, to which you enter through a door of granite. Most of the doors and windows of this apartment are still standing; they are of black marble, and polished like a mirror: on the sidci of the doors, at the entrance, are bas-reliefs of two figures at full length; they represent a man in the attitude of stabbing a goat: with one hand he seizes hold of the iuiimul by the horn, tnd thrusts a dagger into his belly with the other; one of the goat's feet rests upon n.e breast of the man, and the other upon his rights arm. Thi> device is common throughout the palace. Over another door of the same apartment, is a repre- scntatiou of two men at full length . behind them Htaiids a domestic, holding a sprsad nmbrolla: they are supported by large round stafts, appear to be in vears, have long beards., and a profusion cf bair upon their heads. At the So.iih-West entrance of (his apartment «ro two large pillars of stone, upon which arc carved four figures; tiiey arc dressed in long garment", and bold in their honds spears ten feet in length. At this entrance, also, the remains of A stuir-casc of blue stone are still visible. Va^t numbers »t broken pieces of pillars, sliafj, J capitals, are scattered over a consideruble extel of ground, some of them of such enormous sj (hat it is astonishing how they could have hcJ brought whole, and set up together, lnj^p, every remains of these noble ruin^ indicalc ilij former grandeur and magnificence, truly worth of being the residence of a great and powerfj monarch; and whilst viewing (hem, the min becomes impressed with au awful solt'innitJ Exclusive of the ancient antique iiiscriptiui already mentioned, are others of a modern dalJ able! to be read as well a^ some in dm SyrJ chatacter; the vhole of which tiie celoljuj Mr. Niki^uhr has accurately copio'l and puU lished. I Behind the hall of pillars, and close umiort^ mountain, is the remains of a very large buildin of a qucidrangiilar form: this may either had made part of the palace, or, not unlikely, nd^ tached temple, as there is a considerable spaced ground filled up with earth and mouiuU ot'su b»twixt the two; bnd as it has within-sidcsvj bols emblematical of a religious meanin!^. tlr building has four principal entrances to it, t\i from the North-East, and t-.vo from (he Soiitl West,. The walls arc divii| cornices of stone. IV":> (lie Doiiions aad fi'enii, whom they belicvo todnell there; •ii'ii .';ll|l|•rs(ifloll^l^ iiniiqiiie, lh,it ali lights taken in there will go oiii of tiieqi- selve', IT among uf I : f [fi5.!'i • iM ' \m I ;. ^ €\6 OBSERVATIONS MADE ON A among llie greatest curiositiesj as they have never yet been dccyphercd, either in the East or in Europe; and what is very extraordinary, the most learned and cnrious in the Oriental languages have been . baffled in every attempt rtiade to learn their meaning : — like the hiero- glyphics of Egypt, they remain buried in an impenetrable mystery*. It is one of the most considerable dilficultics to solve when and by Avhom this pak'ce was originally built. The Grecian historians have given very imperfect and dubious accounts of it, and the Persians no less so. liy the present natives, the place is called Takhti Jemsheed, or the throne of Jemshced; ^ho they affirm built it between three and four thousand years ago: he is also expressly men- tioned as having erected the Chchil Minar, or hall of forty pillars. It is related in Grecian history, that Alexander the Great set lire to and destroyed this rich and splendid palace, instigated to it in a fit of debauchery by the celebrated courtesan Thais f. It is to be remarked, that in the figures throughout the, whole of the palace, the rules of art are not attended to; the muscles of the figures are wanting, yet the drapery is finely done, and the proportions in general are well kopt up, though the contour is only observed, which givrs a sameness to the whole. The materials of which the palace is compo* d, are chielly hard blue stone; but tlif cK Oi , luid windows of the apartments are all ttf h' >< k mar- ble, and so beautifully ])olishcd, as to r'o\var()s plain; but four of the pillars, facing the moit tain, and which are at some distance from i rest, seera to have hco>\ in' nded for u poriji or entrance from the ei.< • • i'calsoofai ferent style of architei: i;rr. The materials I the columns are a mixed sort of red sloi granular. The hall, situated on an einioenL and commanding an extensive view of the n|1 of Merdasht, is strikingly grand, find conve\i Mie beholder the idea o( an Hall oi Audiena a powerful and warlike nioiwrch. On the 2d of September, the Ensign and! Jones went to visit the tomb of the ceiebral Persian Hero, Rostum (called by the nalil N ushkee Rostum ) . It is situated three milesi a half to the north-east of Persepolis: tlicplj consists of four distinct chambers, pvcau high in the rock. The devices, in »!'> r, parts, are exactly the same as those of ;\ i representing the mystic figure, wit: ♦■ fire and the sun. Underneath t' " ••'jro.:!^ the second chamber, is a gigantic r. ip horseback, cut in stone, and very perfect, iijl completely armed and accoutred, and dra something after the Roman fashion. Onl helmet is a globe; two figures are before would not make the smallest impression on those I masses of stone, equal in point of durability and liatil to the solid rock ; and ol such are the materials ofl whole biiildinit;. These sentiments a^nj^<1 to Mr. FnnT whilst on the spot, ind his opinion ■wi\.. ""engthciicd bq fullest acquiescence of Mr. Jones, - . > Jjouglit, liktl self, it was absurd to give credit to lii-. . \m o' ii;l(g been burnt by Alcxaudcr. T OUR FROM BENGAL TO PERSIA. 617 ty to fifty feet, anl ;» laid together; tJ ore unequal, owiJ d which has falJ ars to have been i\ : palace, and to ha] the other narts By the ped-.als •iginally to have co] •f columns, each co] juently, in all, fiftl ain, are from sever diameter at the base! between each colui oil of t'-e front pilla len open >';o\vards ars, fuciiig the rnoii me. distance from n-' tided for a portiJ • re also of ai, rr. 'i'iie materials I sort of red sto ated on an eininen sive view of the p|| grand, JMid conve\i n Hall oi Audienc (tiMircli. r, the Ensign and '. DPiib of the celebra 'called by the nstij situated three miles i [ Persepolis: the chambers, e\ca\! devices, in 0'" ii'i as those nf' ;"' gure, wiil* V ncath t!-'!? • ■ hhKi". a gigantic i. if ,ud very perfect, m iccoutred, and dre iman fashion. Onl igurcs arc before impression on those t of durability ami W h arc the inatcriah of! I'lits arnso to Mr. Fraif lion wn. ■ trengthi'iu'dkij ncs, 1". 'r.< Jxmglit, littj idlttoil'-- . v'.^ o' \v.ll (he one kneeliii ; down in a supplicating posture, gnd the other in the act of taking hold of the horseman's hand, as if to mitigate his wrath; the jiorscman is looking Htornly upon the figures, and I (lie band at liberty is applied to the hilt of his sword. On one side of this figure is an inscrip- lioii in ancient characters, but different from those on the walls of Porsepolis. Several attendants Lfg in waiting behind the cquestiian figure, all Lf tiiein as large as life; but the proportions are Lot at all adhered to in the first sculpture, the L,ai)b(;ing twice the si/Ai of the horse on which lie rides. A little to the northward is another representation. At the foot of the rock there arc t#o iigiircs completely armed; one of them is in the action of letting go a ring, which the other Urasps. The figure to the right has a globe on iiis helmot, and a large battle-axe in his hand: that to the left has a domestic behind him, jholJing an umbrella. Under their horses' feet jite two human heads; and a little on one side appear the heads of several figures, attendants; I most of them have a broad fillet encircling their hei-jpies, and a profusion of hair flowing loose. |jir John Chardin supposes, that this may be in- hended to represent the action of Alexander the JGrcat, receiving the submission of the Persian Imonarch Darius; but as we are -informed by jGrecian history, that Darius never saw Alexander, Ibeing murdered in his flight shortly after the loss jof the battle of Arbela, by his servant Bcssus; so Jl should imagine, says iJr. Francklin, the Per- Isians themselves would hardly have taken such I to render the dishonour and ruin of their liawfiil king so permanent and known to the llalest posterity, in order to praise one who had lulterl)' overturned their religion and their laws. [Moreover, the work itself bears not the least Etnicoof having been the production of any Grecian lists, as the Greeks at that period were arrived jat the highest perfection in 'he arts and sciences; L:nd had such a thing been done during the time indcr, he would most certainly have made luse of cue of the many celebrated artists who Ifnllowed him into Asia; but these figures are disproportionate, and executed in a rude manner. lEiisign Francklin supposes, that the above device »isof a date prior to the Grecian conquests of Vrsia, and that it was intended to represent some bnurkable action in the life of the hero llostuin (from whom the whole of the place takes its name), and that it was cut to perpetuate the memory of it. Near the foot of the rock is a square building of blue stone, twenty feet in height, by eight in breadth. This place has several windows; the inside is empty, and there are small niches in diflcrent parts of the wall. The natives aflirni that the celebrated Rostum was interred in this spot; but many travellers have supposed it », have been the tomb of Darius Hystaspcs, from a passage of Herodotus, the Grecian historian, amongst whom Sir John Chardin and M. Le Brun are both of the latter opinion. In a part of the rock, to the eastward, is the sculpture of a figure on horseback, the face of which has been uuich mutilated, and is scarcely visible; enougi., however, remains to perceive that the figure is that of a man: he has long flowing hair, and has a projection, resembling a horn, on the left side of his forehead. The natives call this figure " Jskunder Zii Al Kerneen," or "Alexander Lord of the Horns," that is, of an empire extending from oast to west; and they aflirin, that it is positively intended for Alexander the Great. Horns, we know, were considered by the ancients as emblems and symbols of poweif and majesty, and from this we may conclude, without a contrariety to reason, that the Persian idea ')f this figure is a just one; as Alexander is always described by the Grecian historians, having a horn on his forehead, or rather a par- ticular lock of hair, resembling one; and it is also observed on the coins and medals of that prince, which are still to be seen in the cabinets of the curious. Behind the figure on horseback are several others; they arc in armour, on foot, and seemingly attendants on him. Onthe4th of September, 1787, Ensign Francklin returned to Shirauz; and on the 1 1th of October, he set olf from Shirauz on his return to India. On the Itth he arrived at Kazeroon, which, by its remains, appears formerly to have been a city of considerable note, and in size little inferior to Shirauz; it is situated in the centre of an exten- sive plain, surrounded by high mountains; there is a fine lake, about four miles east of the city. In the vicinity of Kazeroon, great quantities of opium are produced, but the Persians do not make this very valuable commodity an article of te ' trade. I ,-J II !^K m V 61S OBSERVATIONS MADE ON A trade. Tlie city^ excepting a mosque, and ilie Governor's palace and gardens, has nothing re- markable ill it. As to the mode of travelling in Persia, we may observe, that a Caltia is composed of ciim«'U, liorses, and mules, the whole of which are under the direction of a Cheharwa Dar, or JMasler. It is to him the price of a mule or camel is paid, and he stipulates with the traveller to feed and take care of the beast during the journey; he has under him several inferior servants, who help to unload the beasts of burden, take them to wafer, and attend them during forage. The Cafila, >vhilst on the journey, keeps as close as possible, and on its arrival at the ]Mun/il Gah, or place of encampment for the day, each load is deposited on a particular spot, «i ,k",d out by the master, to which the merchant w f ' s the goods re- pairs ; his baggage forms at it; in the centre are placed the bedding and pn , isions: a rope or line made of hair is then drawn round the whole, at the distance of about three yards each way, which serves to distinguish the separate encamp- ments. During the night, the beasts are all brought to their stations, opposite to the goods they are to cai y in the morning, and are made fast to the hair rope aforementioned. At the hour of moving, which is generally between three and four in the morning, they load the mules and camels. In doing this, the passengers are awakened by the jingling of the bells tied round the neck of the beasts, in order to prevent their straggling during the march. When every thing is ready, the Cheharwa I)ur orders those nearest the road to advance, and the whole move off in regular succession, in the same order as the pre- ceding day. On the 22d of December he embarked on board the Scorpion cruiser, Captain Jervis, forPmsj™ 2-lth, in the evening, passed the Bussoia P ' and on the 28th came to anchor opposile (1 ' town. ^ The city of Bussora is situated at the Pxlroniit . of the Persian (Julph, in latitude .'i|" ^^0 \orii' on the banks of a fresh wafer river, called t), Shat al Arab, which is a branch of fhe [;,, phrates; that river uniting with it about lifiy miles to the N. W. of IJussora. The cifvisa vtry large one, but indifferently fortified: a mud wall encircles the town, having bastions and (nr- refs also of mud; it had formerly a wef lo^.p this is now dried up in many ])arfs. Allli(nii,|! the Great Desert extends to the very walls of (he city, the banks of the river on each side arp ex. ceedingly fertile and pleasant; they produce tom pulse, rice, and several European fruits; but that which most adds both to the pleasant situation aiid profit of the place, is the date tree; by t|,j cultivation and prddute of this tree, a consider. able revenue arises to the Turkish government. The vicinity of Bussora abo4mds in game, parti. cularly hares, partridges, and the wild \wlf1^^fcf particulauly through .;; .r ^ ' qURbl$TAN, DIARteEKR, ARMENIA, AND NATOLIA, ' ' ' " AND ' " i (i V ■ I !■ * ROMBLIA; BULGARIA, WALLACHIA. TRANSYLVANIA. &c.' /JV EUROPE. Iv/ J.n<> V.rJ >.;> !■ ;»?!. ^Vflie 4th of May, 1797, Mr. Jackson left Bombay, and embarked dn board the dbun- ly ship Pearl, R. ^fience. Master, bound tb BuNora; and anchored off Carrick Town, iH ben fathoms water, on the 8tli of June, after I diDgerous passage, id which the ship was fre- Igently menaced by a number of vessels of war iDging to one of tHe Arabian powers. I Captaio Reid and Mr. Jackson went ashore in jcountry boat at Carrick Town, With a view to loot antelopes, of which there were many on ^- island, having first obtained the Sheikh's lermission. They tbok with them two Arab vides, and presently saw alk)ut twenty antelopes, Mich, however, were s« very shy, that they puld not get near enough to have a shot; nor it appear possible tb take them without jiwks, (lie mode usually practised in those coun- Tlie swiftest greyhounds would be of no le, for tba antelopes are much swifter of foot m most other animals. They are of a light Ivn colour, ah(>uk the size of a goat, but with jnger legs, and ha .e small horns almost erect. ley directed their walk to the hiVhest part of fVoi. U. No. CXVI. 's • the isl'atid, which appears to have been a volcanic production, having coral rocks and sea shells on its very summit; and in many places great quan- tities of lava have run down towards the sea. Here is plenty of good water, but very little vegetation, except near the springs. Being on shore in the middle of the day, they found the heat mach greater than it is in India. The island of Carrick,' which contains between six and seven hundred inhabitants, is about twelve miles long and seven broad. It abounds with goats, but has very few cows, and no beasts of prey. Nor are there any fowls, tame or wild, except stock and turtle doves. It produces very few vegetables, particularly at this season, the heat being so intense as to destroy all vegetation, except in the immediate vicinity ot water. Wheat, rice, and barley, however, are grown, but not in sufficient- quantity to supply the in- habitants, the principal part of whose food is Hsh, which they catch in abundance all round the island. There is also very fine turtle, but the natives do not eat it. On the 1 Ith they saw the entrance of Bussora 7 U River, ■1i If 111' ■! ':i €'20 A JOURNICY FRO\t INDIA, TOWARDS ENGLAND. ! Wm River, N. W. distant off shore throe ItHjjjues; and, while at anchor, a great many pelicuns hovered ahout the ship. On the I2ih Captain Reid and Mr. Jackson ^vcnt ashore on the Arab side of the river; biitonl^ shot a few wild pigeons, procured some eggs and greens from the Arabs, and bought a bullock for six piastres. The ex- tent of their walk inland did not exceed about half a ini''°, which space was planted throughout vith date-trees, tbc male trees being generally planted North West of the females, because the >vind iisuully blows from that point. The males are very easily distinguished, being higher than 'the females, and not so full of leaves at the l.>p. The ground is full of cuts for the purpose of letting in the water from the river at tide-time ; for without this the dates would not thrive, as Ihcy require much moisture. After having passed through the plantation, they entered some villages on the edge of the Desert, beyond which neither trees nor other vegetation were to be seen. All the prospect consisted of a burning desert coTered >vith a crust of suit, making a noise under the feet similar to that caused by walking on frozen «now. Without being on shore in the middle of the day, and at the season near midsummer, a stranger to this country could not possibly form any idea of the heat upon the Desert. The bar^ feet of an European would be blistered in a moment, and Mr. Jackson felt some inconvenience to his, even through a pair of strong boots. The houses here are buiit of clay, and covered Milh the leaf of the date-tree. The inhabitants are very numerous, and most of them have weak eyes, occasioned, probably, by the reflection of tiie sun upon the desert. 'I'heii' dress is very sim- ple; that of the men being in general no more than a woollen cap to defend the head from the fun; and a coarse woollen cloak, with short wide sleeves. An Arab always wears his woolleji ^ap, though he has often no other cloathing. The woman's dress is equally simple, being only a few yards of blue cotton cloth wrapped round them. These people have numerous flocks of cattle, sheep, and goats, which they drive every morning at sun- rise to the river side, where they fmd very good pasture. They are watched all day by men, women, and children, who frequently amuse themselves by bathing in the river; for an Arab, when he has an opportunity, will bathe five or lix times a day. The flocks are always driven back at suu'.'etto the villages, where they • m J all night. Every village and lixed rcsic'nce surrounded with a lofty mud wall, to dtf^^j ' from beasts of prey, particularly lions, wlii ] are here very numerous. ' ' The Arab women were not so shy as weexpeda to find them. They seemed much entertajna by the novelty of the European dress, and vcrl civilly oftered them milk, hriad, &v. 'fy bread is in cakes, but not tine; and their milk J not very palatable to an European, beinw Cfdi and quite sour. It immediately turns sow afte sun-rise; but the Arabs prefer it in that state On die Persian shore are the ruins of a veri large and ancient city, extending about twelvj miles along the banks of the river, and coiitainin many tombs which still appear entire. TliJDciti was destroyed by the Persian Emperor, Nadji Shah; and among the ruins several wolves weri seen. In the whole extent from the sea to this parte the Persian side of the river, there is very littj] culture, and but a thin population. It appean however, to have hern once well cultivatedl there arc still many embankments to prevent tli river overflowing the country, and numeroii canals to water the ground, similar to tboie i the, opposite Arabiau «hore. As to pUiitation we only saw a few straggliiig date-trees, wJiicB being neglected, bore very little fruit. ] The next day> June I Jthj they saw nuraeroii herds of cattle, sheep, and goats, with agreJ many horses, on the Arabian side of the rivn An Arab Sheikh, or a man of any consequencJ usually keeps several horses ready saddled, il case of any alarm, and is always ready to ridcol at a momcni's notice. Thesic. horses are fedwitf grass cut by the side of the river at low walcl or on some of th^ islands,, which are veryiiif merous. Eor this purpose they make use large baskets, covered with a coat of bitiiraeJ which effectually kpcps out the water, and m men will paddle in them at a toleruble rati Some of these baskets are large enough to earn a dozen people, and are frequently used as ferrn boats. On the Hth they observed, that on the Arabia] side of the river the culture at^d popuiutiun wen nearly the same as before; but, the Persian siif had a better appearance. Vegetation was tlieij much more flourishing-; unci ut sun-set, ucoj sidcrabl T^ T? n A JOURNFT RROM INDIA, TOWARDS F.NCLAND. 621 .1 t, Jerable tribe, with their flocks, bewail to pitch iLir tents, not appearing to have aii}' tixed re- idflifc. They lighted fires, which continued Hurning: all night. On the liJth they weighed anchor, but only -iiifd about six miles. The Persian side of the Lf improved in its appearance, having a few ,11 villages close to the river side, and some .4rees, It being rather swampy, there were ]i good many willows, and a few elm-trees. le Arabian side, too, looked better tlian what ley had lately passed, being cultivated farther ini the river. The date-trees being planted ^utten feet from each other, and full of leaves top, afford a very good shade; and the people enabled to cultivate the ground during the hole day, without sutFering much inconvenience oitbe heat of the sun, which out of the shade, in the middle of the day, is at this season it to be endured. They found here a very fong brown soil, which does not appear to want IV manure, nor do the Arabs at this place ever ike use of any. Ontlic Kith, they gained about six miles more, the Persian side of the river now exhibited high degree of cultivation. They saw many ibitaiits and numerous flocks and herds; but .not much intercourse with the people, the) arc not so much to be trusted as their op- lite neighbours the Arabs. They arc a very g, robust, hard-featured people; and their »is --earlv similar to that of the Arabs. A e of blue calico, about five yards long, is whole of the woman's dress, and the children entirely naked. The men have a very fero- lus appearance, and will destroy whomsoever luan overpower, which renders it impossible travel much in this country. Wild hogs are y numerous among the marshes, and there [iTarious kinds of game in great plenty, which (l« tine sport to a shooting party; but it will lilttays necessary to go in a considerable body, "never very far from the river, to avoid being OH" by the saVage inhabitants. The Arabian of the river was near-y the same as before, ex- that the canals were cut farther inland. that on the Arabial and population wcj but the Persian sil Vegetation was tlicij d ut sun-set, acoJ sidcrabl I «!« very much pleased, says Mr. Jackson, with I liltlf journey ; ami, tlx^iif^h I had lately bt-en in the of (uyliin amoiii; the cinnamon, in the I'ravuncoro klrv, aiul in every port of the Malabar coast, I certain. loulilglvo the prorckuuce to ihU place ; for the abuuduncc. 4 ..... .1 . .-.. which implied of course more cultivation. Some of the canals are very broad, and Mr. Jackson crossed over several in the wicker baskets before described, which are indeed very convenient where there is not much current. The 17th they gained also about two leagues. A party of them went out a shooting on the Arabian side of the river, hut were not very suc- cessful. Extending their walk inland about three miles, they found the whole well watered by means of canals from the river, and the popu- lation very great. The dates and other trees atlurded an agreeable shade, and made their little incursion very pleasant. They found great abundance and many varieties of garden vege- tables; some of them European, and several pe- culiar to the country. Beside the dates, which are the chief support of the inhabitants, there were great quantities of pomegranates nearly ripe; red and white grapes, some of them ripe; an abundance of oranges, limes, and lemons, but none of these had attained maturity. There were also many well-tn.sted apples, chiefly of the kind called codlings, but a little sweeter than those in England. They took with them abom a bushel of these, for which they paid a very trifling sum*. The inhabitants are remarkably civil. There being no regular road, the Eu- ropeans frequently lost their way; and 'the natives would very readily ofler their services to conduct them into the right path. On the 18th Mr. Jackson set out fur Bussora by land, with an Arab guide. They were fre- quently stopped on the road by soldiers ; but his guide always satisfying them, he was permitted to pass without molestation. Many of the inha- bitants seemed to view him with astonishment; and in all probability some of them had never seen an European before, this part leing out of any accustomed road, and where uo one can travel on horseback on account of the numerous canals. The country through which he passed had a delightful appearance, being well watered, and in luxuriant vegetation. Extensive crops of wheat, barley, and paddy, were nearly ripe; and of fruit and vegetables the quantity was im- of various kinds of fruits, the fraj^rant smell from the oranges, luiuons, and sweet-scented shrubs, and the airree. able shade of thu lofty dutc*trctts, rendered it u most do. lightful spot. 4 t .;■ ^ :: !i iH ■ ! S'- ,:., I; I -HI -f flt:4 I mencc, tv I am u..- .>< . 622 A JOURNEY FROM INDIA, TOWARDS ENGLAND. mensc. The city of Bussora is supplied from this neighbourhood, and the Turks and Arabs consume a very large quantity in proportion to their other food. After walking al)out ten milt-s, he reached the English factory at Bussora. Here he obtained a horse, and a guide, also mounted, and set out immediately from Bussora for Margill, the country residence of Samuel Manesty, Esq. the resident. Thia stands about three miles above the city, and is pleasantly situated on the banks of the river. During his stay at Margill, which was about a week, he frequently visited the city of Bussora, which is very large and extremely populous. The Bazar, or Market-place, is nearly two miles long, and appears to be well supplied. It abounds with drugs of various kinds peculiar to the country, and which, though of considerable value in Europe, may be bought here at a moderate price, money being of more value here than in many other countries. European manu- factures are scarce and dear; and the people prefer thofte of England to all others. English superfine broad cloth, and watches, will sell for more than double what they cost in England. The length of the city walls, from the river toward the Great Desert, is about four miles, and from North to South about three miles. The walls are chiefly built of clay, and of course cannot make any very stout resistance, particularly against artillery. Of this, however, there is very little in the country; in the city were only ten pieces, most of them brass indeed, but only two or three of them serviceable. Being exposed to the sun, tlie carriages were dropping to pieces Here are several mosques and minarets, many of which are very handsome buildings. Some of the latter are entirely covered with variegated tiles, which have a very singular appearance. Most of iiie public buildings, as mosques, minarets, and hummums, are built of brick; but the English factory is now by far the best structure in the whole city. Within the walls are several vacant spots not built upon, and whicb appear to have been occasioned by fire. The houses in general are very indifferent, being chiefly built of clay with a small proportion of bricks. Their timbers are the trunks of date- trees, not squared, but round, and in the sara^ state as when brought from the plantation : they • The greatest part of the trade of this branch of the Turkuh empire is ia the haads of the Armeaiaoi, who, are also very soft and spongy, and will not 1 loiipf. The very thick walls, and these clu ^'^ timbers, form together a very uncoutij nierl"!! archilecfiirc. piece The roofs ar« flat, and suriouml by a parapet, llorc the inliubitantsi sleep durj the summer season, in the open air. To an p' ropean every hctuse appears like a prison, as can receive no light from the street, because has no windows. Every house forms a snuar and the inli:ibita!ifi have no cominunicatioinvii their noighboufi. Within the squaro arc varioi. olucc-i; somo unrler ground, where the pcopU retire during the boat of the day. The kitcbe] the water, and not unfrequently the horsy kept on the i,;rouod floor. The hull, where tha receive comparjy, tlie harem, and many otiJ oflices, are on the second, which lias general! a gallery siipported by pillars continued near] round the inside of the whole building. Tha have generally two flights of steps; one lead J to the hall, where alone strangers are admitted the other leading to the harem, to which m but the family can have access. Women of tH higher class are seldom seen out of doors; bi when they do go out, they are always veile Many of the Arab women, particularly of | lower class, expose their faces. Both men and women slaves are sold publu in the Bazar. The majority of the people i Arabs, the rest are Turks and Aroieuiaiis. T Turks are mostly men of some conseqnen either being officers in the army, or holding soi other posts under government. The Armen are the merchants, and some of them are Td respectable. They have a cooiiderqble trij with the East Indies, and chiefly to BeBgal. this trade several ships are employed, the largi of which does not exceed four hundred toiu,1 account of a difliculty in croasing the bar. u ships from Bussora to Bombay, or Ben[^ usually receive a full cargo, tlie' greater part] which consists of copper in small cakes, drugs of various kinds; and the Bombay! generally take dried fruits. It is very seldoj however, that a vessel sails to any part of In without taking a considerable number of , horses. There are many instances of ships caij ing away silver, in bajs |^d specie, to the anH of twenty lacks of rupees^ the specie chiefiij Spanish dollars and Venetian sequins*. Ac sidtfil -^■"-> ■ when they have a considerable sum on Cand, in ord prevent the Turks from lading hold of it, (which i>t A JOURNRY FROM IMDIA, TOWARDS KNGT.AND. 623 •iilcrablc quantity of sugar and rice is froqiicnlly imported tVoin India. The specie is sent here hy (i,e Arni?nian9 to their correspondents in most fij of ihe empire; considerable sums liLcwise L ol'Icn sfnt from Constantinople. Those are uiiially forwarded under the care of the Tutiirs*, messenger!' of g"vernn»'nt, who receive a hand- jonic prcnjinm for their trouhle. The Tatars, Wcver, arc sometimes robbed and slain by the waiiderini^ tribes, who in formidable bodies infest tbe srenter part of Hie Turkish dominions in Asia. \Vi(Ii rt'jipert to the Arabs, the most numerous (lass of iiiliabitants, there are a few respectable jien amongst them ; but great numbers are ex- Iremclv poor, labouring very hard for small naces. With a very lihlc pay, however, they ire enabled to support their families; for their jdrcss costs them little; and their food consists of Idalfs, bread, and water, with which they are [pfrfrcflv satisfied; and indeed, though their- food Li) simple, they have generally speaking-, twice lestrengtli of Ruropjans, and arc able to endure ufh more fatigiie. The streets in 'nis city arc so extremely narrow, frequently to admit only one horse at a time; (led to which, they arc in many parts so very iiffli as to make it diHicult for horses to pass. lerc is a Rom^jn Catholic Church, a tolerably lod building; and ^hc people of that persuasion ire not in the least molested. Every person ears the dress of the country, particularly usfarlics. On tlie y.'ith, every thing having been prepared ir their departure for Bagdad, un Arab Sheikh, BfS tbc case) o'port it to India, where they often receiro bclte per ci-iit. inteiVst. The interest is usually remitted ktk in piece goods, with which they supply the greatest ■ttofllii! Turkish cmi>ire. I' I'siially, hilt vAy impropejjy, printed Tartar. Sec lanipLell's Journey over.land to India," and other lorks. It is pronounced TUtur', the accent being on the jit J) liable. It As these boats were admirably calculated for their in. H'u purpose, the following account of (hem may not be ttcccptuble : fseriptioii of the bout generulli/ called a Dunck, but some. ttiim a Kirajfc, uted bj the Arabs upon the riven F.u. tfliraicf and Tigris. iThc extreme breadth is seven feet nine inches. The ■gih forly-two feet. It is built of stronsf rough timbers at khli'in inches distance, connected by small rough pieces of Vd. ami covered with a coat of bitumen about half an Ih thick on the outside, • hich, .ame kind of roug; i,v;ards, none above three feet long, and of very un. equal breadths; the liumg is, of course, full of holes Some of these boats, insteiul of boards, are covered with basket.work, having a coat of bitumen upon it. — 'I'hey are very sharp at each end, and sail fust. — Their oars arc rough poles, having a piece of board tied on with a cord, '.'"liey have besides strong timbers, which go down to the kecF, and are about three feet above the gunwale; these are full of notches, to which they fasten the oars with strong kya rope; and by these means they cither raise or lower the oar, as is most convenient. They have no tiller; but are enabled to vteer with great a( curacy by means of a strono- kya lope fasienod to both sides of the rudder: and they very seldom use more than five oars at a time. In the fore- part was a place built with briek and clay for the purpose of dressing victuals; and this onvenienco waj of great use, as it enabled them to provide every thing necessary wUboitt delaying the passage by frequent landings. '^ X grazing. '' ft Ir < . 62 i A JOURNF-Y FROM INDIA, TOWAUDS ENGLAND. grazing. Here is also much game. The Per- oiaii side of the river has a hetter appearance, exhibiting extensive piaiitatioiis of date-trees, and man)' viUagcs. The river is here about two miles broad, bearing N. N. VV. and S. S. E. On the li^Gth they arrived at Corny, (he conflux ef the rivers Euphrates and Tigris. Here they remained two hours, and observed that the Tigris bore E. N E. and the Euphrates due W. A 6hip of war was moored near the middle, between the two rivers, as a guard'ship, and to prevent Teasels passing without paying customs. The two rivers, united here, form an immense body of fresh water. From this place to the Persian Gulph is called by the natives Shat-el-Arab. The tide has seldom any influence so far as Corny, except at the full and change of the moon; and even then the water is only raised a little; the current is not * led. Corny is supposed by some learned men to have been the scite of the Garden of Eden. Its present wretched appearance, however, gives it no pretensions to the name of the Terrestrial Paradise, as described by IMilton. It is a small village, surrounded by a mud wall; containing few inhabitants, with very little cultivation. There is, indeed, a small plantation of date-trees between the village and the river, and which forms a very agreeable shade. Here the Arabs sit and spend most of their time, seeming to de- pend for their livelihood much more on their ex- actions from passengers, than on ttieir own in- dustry. Leaving Corny they went up the Euphrates, which is called by the Arabs Shat-el-Fraat. The country here was very little inhabited, being wet, twampy, and covered with reeds and willows*. At sun-set several jackalls were prowling near the banks of the river. In the evening they made t'^eir boats fast to the western banks of the river * I fired at a crane among the willows, says Mr. Jackson ; and instantly after the report, a large herd of wild hogs rushed out, some of them of such extraordinary size, that at first sight I could scare >ly believe they-were hugs. Their colour is a deep red. In the neighbourhood of Bussora sume wild hogs have been killdd, whoso carcasses have weighed ten cwt. English. As the Arabs do nut eat them, they are permitted to remain unmolested. It is said, that they continue growing as long as they live; and indeed the immense size of some of them seems to sanction such an opinion. * t Mr. JacksoB informs us, that oa this occasion ho was near a large tomb, where they remained all ni-.! i but had very little riiit, the musquitocs btin . ,, ' tremcly troublesome, and the liowlinj, nl^l' J jackalls, wolves, and other wild bcusts, in (H nciijhbourhood, rendering their situation imi I dismal. vl At day-break June 27» they restmicd their voy age, tracking up the right bank of the river Ti ' country aflordcd a pleasing prospect, uhoiuidi,, wiHi plantations of date-trees and fields f cor I In their passage they passed a breach in iho rjgJJ bank of the river, which has ovordowpd (J Great Desert for about three hundred niilc!!, an| has alarmed the inhabitants of Bussora and t|J neighbourhood very much. The excessive heal of the sun, with the inunense numbers of U J and animalcules that perish when it dries udJ serve to putrify the air, which in general provJ fatal to great numbers : and hence tlic Arabs cal it the xvntcr of death. The natives, however, wc J endeavouring to stop the breach. AtuigiutiJ English got very little rest on accomit of ty mus(|uitoes, and the horrible noises viade by tJ wild beasts in the vicinity. 1 Oi) the 'iSth they reached Soke Slnie, and oj the follovving day were treated by (he Slieikhwitl a dinner in the Arab fashion. It consisted ofl dozen and a half of fish, about the size » mackarel, fryed in ghee; a dozen joiled fowlJ and cakes made of barley flour, fresh baked, wi(j plenty of milk. They sat upon the grouw agreeable to the custom of the country, in agji, den adjoining the river, under the shade of] grove of date and fig-trees. The fish, fo»|( and bread, were very dweet and good ; but lU milk was sour, and not very palatable to an EJ rop<;aa. They d'A not make use of knives ad forks, as in Europe, but ate with (heir fing as the Arabs do, tearing tbcifuwis and pieces f. much ami led by observing the dexterity of the Arab wont in bakiu) their bread. They have a small pliue built ifJ clay, be ween two and three feet high, haviiijj a liulcalf bottom, ''or the convenience of drawing out tho ashi something "imilar to that of a lime kiln. The ovcii is usual about fifteen inches wids at top, and gradually grows wid to the bottom. It is heated with wood, and when suflinco^ hot, and perfectly clear from smoke, having nothing I clear embers at bottom (which continue to rdlcct} heat), they prepare the duugh in a large bowl, and noi the cakos to the desired size on a board* or stone placed d the OTcp. After they have kneaded the cake to a praij cunsistei Yv A JOURNEY FTJOM INDTA, TOWATinS FNGT.AND. G'25 -yl^p.Shuc 18 R very Urgp and po|)ul()iis town, ,1 tho residence of Slicikli Twvney, ii verv pow- l"|-,| Ariib Prince. Mr. JhcUhou walked will) r^'glicikli tlirongli llie town, and went into (he Ba/,ar, or market, wliich i» about a mile long, liii opened at 8iin-risc, and continues till nine I'llock; it is rce. On tlu" 2d of July they struck their tents, and arrived at the head of the Degela, when they entered a larger river, which is divided into two branches: the one running S, E. the other W*. At twelve o'clock they entered the river called by the Arabs Shat-el-Hie, running from the N. N. W. The Sheikh always chose as open a coi^try as he could find, to remain in all night, for fear of being attacked by the Arabs at a disadvantage. * VVhethi-r these braHchcs have been cut to water the country, or not, is uncertain ; but it is probable they have. The ground for about forty yards from the river is usually three or four feet higher than it is farther inland. The larger branches are often near a quarter of a mile broad, and the smaller about half that distance. They make th^ country through which they pass exceedingly fettiie ; but there is no doubt that these- different branches are much larger than they were originally, and that they are still in- creasing, as the Tigris, from which they arc supplied, is much more rapid than the Euphrates, particularly at this season, when the freshes are cooiitig down from tliu snowy uiouutaius. W 4 i- ,! li.' • ft '(!. 'i i.. I V .' ": '' " « During wr^i ! 1. 1': €26 A JOURNEY FROM INDIA, TOWARDS rNDl.AND, Diirinj? tlie ni}jfht they were ituuIi disturbnl by the jiK-kailt, Wfliu scciiiud very near, and luiide a iiiosl hideous noise. The next day they were vi'iited by some Arabs on horsebaek. They were ahi tit twenty in nuni- l)er, armed with spears and tolwas. As tlie horsemen approachcil, our Sheikh, w ith a double- barrelled pun in liis hand, walked about twenty yards to meet the Chief of th»^ other party, who also advanio'l before his people about the same distance. After some conversation between the two Chiefs, the whole advanced. The iMiief ■wai mounted oh a bcciitiful Arab mare, and it is a general rule, that Sheikhs and men of conse- quence arc always mounted on mares, which arc usually valued at three times the price of horses*. There is much jnngle ( wood) in the neighbour- hood of this place, and lions are very numerous. Parties of Arabs likewise frequently lie in wait here, and the Sheikh who conducted Mr. Jack- eon fully expected a nighi-attark ; and he there- fore, with his brother and all the guards, re- mained under arms all night, the Sheikh con- etanily walking round the tents with a double- barrelled gun in his hand. A very good look- out, and probably the preparations which the horsemen observed making for defence, prevented the travellers from being molested. The heat of the sun was so excessive on the 4th of July, that the boatmen were not able to endure it. They were in general nearly naked, having no other covering than a small woollen fdp, which barely iits the crown of the head. The rapid current of the river continues deepen- ing the beds, and in consequence the Arabs are rot able to water many parts of the country, which renders it uninhabitable except on the banks of the river. Where they cannot have water, the excessive heat of the sun soon destroys all vegetation, and particularly at this season. In the afternoon they passed a village on the ♦ To those who are strangers to the I.inguac;(<, inaniicri, and customs, of this country, it is no tfnusoful thins; to ro. foll'-ct, Miat whenoTor a man is .mounted on a mare it may be ilepondcd on that he is abt ve thu commo-. class Dress cannot be relied on ; for a Sh -ikh will ofte > ha»o his mean, f St servant dressed mwch bcttrr than himself, and will cat out of the same dish with him , as if they were equals. + An instance of this sin^'ular trait in the character of 4hc Arabs occurred not long ago. A Frenchman was carry, ing dispatches to iudia, across the Great Desert, from 2 western banks of the river, called Waa«iit Tl river is here above half a mile hroiid. 'ri! | Sheikh was particularly careful not to iro i,," the village, but continued trackiin; up (1^. ^" posite banks, and made as much haste as iwissil)" " All the inhabitants," said thij Sheikh, " A desperate thieves, and have no mercy on di,, I who are so unfortunate as to fall into their hitmlsJ for they are imder no government or eoiilroul r«J cept that of their own leaders, who are cvirvl whit as bad as themselves." 'I In the afternoon of July 5. they arrivpj at|||,j town called Ilie, from which this river lukrsjtii name. It is situated on the eastern banks; amji the inhabitants of this town not being niuchi better than those of Waasiif, the Slieikli imistercd all his guards a l*ltle above the town, ainoui)tin» to thirty men, all exceedingly well arinod, anill tiressed in their best clothes. He spread a nnU on the ground, and with his brother, uml aiiottifl! principal officer, sat down, having all the gi^rdJ under arms draw up near them. Here tlieywfJ visited by the principal men in the town, \v)J were treated with pipes and cofl>f. The Slieikli] however, kept the double-barrelled gun IvinfftJ the carpet before him, a' ready to lire in moment; the other oflicei ' men being ('quallij prepared. This cerem' .ust appear veri strange to those who are wholly uiiartiuainta with the singular manniT/ and customs of thra people; but all this caution is perfectly nrcesjar] till they have given the salani and ate tdjfcthen When that has been done, there can be no rooj for apprehension. An Arab, after heliaseateJ or drank with another, let him be ever so great J stranger, and of whatever religion or countrn woultl sooner perish than suder him to receivj the least injury, either in person or properlvj and whoever, in distress, puts himself entirelj under the | rotection of an Arab, may relv upoi being defended in the most faithful inauncrf Aleppo to Russora. He had with him an interpreter, an escort of about eighty men, mostly on cdiiiols. Wid about five days journey from Bussora, they wcrcadjckij in the evening by a wandering tribe of Arabs. The nq senger had a double- barrelled gun, with which hcsholll Slieikh of the hostile party; but they rnshed with siirhfoij at the first onset, that before he had time to charge osiii he was cut down with a sabre. Most of the iiu'Escnjeij guards being killed, they were stripped by the cunqiierM and the messenger amonj; the rest, it betug imagiucil thit j A JOURNEY FROM INDIA, TOWARDS ENOLAND. tf'27 H is cuJtomary for these people to lay very i^,v contributions on vesscU and passeneers Lj pas* this way, or plunder them when tliey Lnot comply with their demands: and in case [(the least resistance, they will seize the boats J murder every person on board. In this they Lan a(lvanta(;e over boats going up the river, thich being obliged to track against both wind U stream, their progress is seldom moke than L miles an hour; but going downwards there t,ery little danger; for the current being very toid. and ^^^ w*"** usually blowing fresh from Kn. \y. all vessels go at a great rate, and par- yarlythc small doneks, which sail remarkably Hie is a small town surrounded by a mud ' but there are a vast number of inhabitants proportion to the size of the place. the locusts in this country are very numerous. Ir, Jackson caught one of a different colour L the common locust, and much larger. Its Iff extraordinary appearance induced him make ilictcli of it from life, of the exact natural size. Ly part of it is green, except the under wings, Lch are crimson; and when flying it has a Ltiful appearance. The eyes are very re LUble. |Oii the Ith, they entered the river Tigris, led by the Arabs, Shat-el-Amaar. Nearly Vosite, on the eastern banks of the Tigris, is a ill town called Coote, off which several stout mh ^vcre lying at anchor. The main body of Miver runs S. S. E. ; and from the best ob- hation they could make, it appeared that the ihad been originally a canal cut to water the intrv, but had in course of time increased to a Ij laige river, containing much more fresh than the Thames. The Tigris is here Idnd. After the engagement, the Arabs lighted fires to |e colfee and refresh themselres ; and, as is customary 1 them, sat on the ground in a circle round the fire. [messenger's wound not proving mortal, (to though he lone side of his face cut down, his skull was not mate. r injured) he at length recoTored his senses ; and finding (elf entirely naked, as well as much weakened by the m blood, ho had nearly given himself up to despair. I rcroiiccting to hare heard of this singular disposition cAr&lis, he resolved to try the eipcrimcnt, as the only I of saving his life, or putting an end to his existence. |ookavicw of the Arabs sitting round the fire, and 1 otit iiini whom he thought most likely to be the chief, |ing the oldest.looking man in the company. Naked as IS, and almost covered with blood, he rushed into the I and threw h-aisclf at his feet. Uia conjecture was L II. No. CXVII. above a mile broad; and, though reckoned at ita height, on account of the snow melting upon the mountains^ the banks were upwards of ten fee^ perpendicular above the surface of the water. Several large droves of camels were grazing upon its banks. The river is very crooked, winding from N. N. E. to South. They passed a Turkish camp pitched on the western banks, and made their boats fast to the same banks, about half a mile above them. The Turkish tents had a very handsome appearance, some being red, others green, and some white. The army consisted of six thousand horse; and the Bashaw hud two artiied vessels to att«qd him on the river; these were about a hundred and fifty tons burden each, and were built much like the Grabs in the East- Indies. This army had been sent to punish some rebellious Arabs in the neighbourhood, who had murdered the Sheikh of Hilla, and several other officers under the Turkish government. The Sheikh dressed himself and half a do/en of his slaves in their best clothes, and paid & visit to the Bashaw. On the lOth Mr. Jackson informs us he had an opportunity of observing the progress of the hot winds, called by the natives Samiel, which some- times prove very destructive, particularly at this season. They are most dangerous between twelve and three o'clock, when the atmosphere is at its greatest degree of heat. Their force entirely de- pends on the surface over which they pass. If it be over a desert, where there is no vegetation, they extend their dimensions, with amazing velocity, and then their progress is sometiraes to windward. If over grass, or any other vegeta- tion, they soon diminish, and lose much of their force. If over water,, they lose all their electrical right. This old man was the chief, who immediately cover, cd him with his cloak. IIo was now at a loss for an inter, preter; but, on ccarch being made, the interpreter was found in a similar situation, wounded, but not dangerously. The messenger had his clothes and dispatches returned to him ; and the chief entered into an agreement to deliver him safe at Bussora, on the messenger promising to pay him one hundred Venetian sequins. Both parties performed their agreement; the messenger arrived safe, and had engaged a dow to take him to Muscat. This having reached the English resident's ears, he seized the messenger with hisdis. patches, and had hii wounds dressed by the English sur. geon. It war. imagined that the messenger, if tiufiercd to proceed, would not have reached India, as his wounds re. quired much surgical assistance. ;ti ! 1 ;; • i4 r! !1' ! 7Y Sre, 'fi..^ ' I '. 5 628 A JOURNEY FROM INDIA, TOWARDS ENGLAND. fire, and ascend; yet he sometimes felt their effects across the river where it was at least a mile hroad. On the 12th they made their boats fast to the eastern banks of the river, and pitched their tents near the ruins of the ancient city of Ctesiphon. The river here takes a circuit to the southward for about ten miles, and leav>°s niJy a narrows neck of land, on which are still standing many lofty walh n.rid towers, being fragments of ancfent Ctesiphon. In their passage tiiey met with several stout vessels, some upwards of two hundred tons burden, laden with fire-wood, and bound to Bagdad. Tlit y appeared to Mr. Jackson of such a singular construction, and so ill adapted for the purpose, that he was induced to take a sketch of one uf them. The rudder is composed of a great quantity of rough timbers very aukwardly put together, and is guided by a tiller. They are built of very coarse materials, and covered with a thick coat of bitumen. Tiic icfty head is gene- rally ornamented with a '.jtriety of shells stuck into the bitumen. Tkey form aktoget'/*r a very uncouth specimen ot naval architecture, and re- quire twenty, and sonratimes thirty trackers; but ■when the wind blows strong, even they are not able to move them. On enquiring the reason why they made use of vessels so ilPadaptcd to the purpose that a man with a very slight knowledge of naval architcture might soon discover their inconveniences, and observing, that a vessel built upon a plan similar to (lio Kiiglish ware barges would carry as nuifli cargo, draw less water, and might be worked with one-third of the men; the answer he received convinced him of the danger and inutility of attempting any iimovation among these pe-./ple. lie was told, that ihe children invariably continued to follow the trade of their f( re- fathers; thus the sons of a carpenter are all CBi-penters, &c.; that their fore-fathers had always built vessels upon the same plan, and that it would be reckoned very prophane in them to deviate from the custom of their ancestors. This completely solves the problem, and shews to what a length superstition and prejudice is carried among them. These people have continued from * A'.i Kiiglishman has at Bagdad a priyilegu which U not granted to the people of any other nation. Whatever bag. gage he may hare with him, instead of being taken to the Cubtom.houne, is allowed to be carriecftu the plare ivhero he ifi going to reside, and au oificor of the custumti is tent the earliest period to speak the same languaJ wear the same kind of dress, and v^t vMd drni in the same manner. Their mode cf warfare; still the same; and scarcely the slightest deviatini has taken place in their manners ,\nd custom! prejudices and passions; though almoiit ever other lation has undergone a thorough revolutioi within a few centuries. Should a man here, convinced of a defect n any branch of trade, offer to adopt an improv* ment, complaint would soon be made to thl Mufti, and the artist probably pay for his temerill with his life. At sun-set on the 13th ^h<;y passed Javer, oi the western banks of the river. Though but small town, it is much celebrated on account a very beautiful mosque that stands in it, nine o'clock theycrosscd the mouth of alargerJTi running from the North, called by the Aral Shat-el-Deaal, and at half past nine made tbt boats fast to the eastern banks of the river, whii were upwards of twelve feet above the surface the water. On the I4th they reached Ragdad. Therivi was very crooked, being nearly round tlie coi pass, yet from the place where they set out in 11 morning was only three hours walk hy lai They airived at the house of Mr. J. L. Renai (an agent to Mr. Manesty, of Bussora), whii was very conveniently situated adjacent to river*. Bagdad is seated on the eastern hanks of ( Tigris. It is a large and populous city.^xtcndii along the banks of thn river about three lui'i and the length of the walls from the river beii about two miles, gives it the form of un oblci square. The houses, though very interior the European, arc much better built than tin of Bussora, but nearly in the same stilu, Mi of the public buildings, such as mosqi minarets, and hummums, are constructed hewn stone, and make a very handsome appi ancc. Here is also an extensive Bazar, whici well supplied with variety of articles; but prices in general much higher than at Bus$i The Armenians are the principal merchants h thither to examine It, This privilege was ohtaincd byl solicitation of Mr. Manesty in favour of his couiitryi^ and will be at all times adv»ntagooui to tho iutcrvst as < as the couvcuieuco of a triivuller. A JOURNEY FROM INDIA, TOWARDS ENGLAND. 629 ^g ^gnufactories carried on are few, and those eoaiincd to articles for immediate use, as sh'^es, hoots, clothes, sadlery, and culinary utensils. Tlie Armenians at Mosul send great quantities of wpper down the Tigris to Bagdad upon rafts of limber fastened together. On their arrival the nfts are sold, wood being very scarce here. The copper is afterwards shipped for Bussora on board Ijrge dowF, which are usually about six months ii) performing the voyage thither and back again. The copper, is in small round cakes about six inches broad, and nearly two inches thick in the fiddle, but gradually sloping to the edges. It jgof a quality nearly the same as English battery cake copper. This trade, which has not long iieen carried on, is fast increasing to a very great (iteiit; for sometimes ships sail from Bussora laden almost entirely with copper; and it is pro- bable that it will in lime prove prejudicial to the English manufactories. Labour being much cheaper in these countries than in Europe, they ifo enabled to carry it to market at a much cheap- trrate; and this makes it very profitable to those It present concerned in it. Though Bagdad is Diic'. better I uilt than any other city in this part of (he wc'lf', it is still very inferior to many cities in Europe. Every house \v?ars the appearance of a prison, as described in Bussora, but com- poted of better materials; they are in general of brick, and the timbers very good, bemg those which are floated down the Tigris. The streets tre very narrow and dusty. Scorpions, taran- Hulas, and other noxious insects, are very luineroiis. Of the former Mr. tlackson fre- quently killed four or five in a night; Ihey are of tlie large black kind, and their stings often prove mortal. All persons at this season of the year slrp nn the tops of their houses; and the people iiinnD' with their clothes in their hands at sun- (i>e; for as soon as it has risen above the horixon it becomes excessively hot. Mr. Jackson soon lenrncd, however, that even looking over t£ a |iarapct-wall wan a deed o£ danger; for that the iTurkH would not hesitate a moment to shoot at any * The fullowliig Htury h rolatud uf thu late Kyu by (ho Inerrhaiits; and many of them, much to thc-ir sorrow, arc |(ii)lil(!d ;o vouch far the truth of it; it also proves to what ilength iniiny of the Turkiiih Ministors and Biuhaws carry bhrir tyra ill case he should have occasion tniore money. His dress consisted of a yellow bnaboiit a foot high, broad at top and almost u but becoming gradually narrower till it fitted /head. The lower part of the cap was cover- jll round with black lambskin about four ihcsdccp, the inside lined and quilted, and in 'iwper P^''* stuffed with wool extremely tight. Ljjffljius calculated to resist ai\y weapon, it is. ,(jceilent safeguard td the head. This cap, y, being very heavy, feels unpleasantly at is called a Culpack, and is only worn by ■ Tatars. His other articles of apparel were, Lovvn cloth coat trimmed with a broad black Ibinding, wrapped quite round the body with ft wide sleeves, and hanging down to the calf (lie leg; blue Turkish trowsers trinmied with k silk binding, made )i«ry wide, but button- ticht round the small of the leg; and strong boots to pull over the trowsers as high as the of the log. The under-dress is a Turkish II, with lon^j sleeves buttoning close to the t; and a shirt without a collar. Turks of all riptions have the neck entirely bare. The lars wear drawers; 'but i\'lr. Jiickson wore a Irof strong leather breeches under his trowsers, ich lie found of great service. A cumberband iutsi.x yards long was tied very tightly round waist, and in this he hung a brace of pistols, ide having a large Turkish sabre fusfoiwd ind his middle with a belt. His Euro, Ihes, and whatever he had not immediut. ■ ion for, he had packed up in wax cloth; s, stockings, and other necessaries that he luldhave occasion for on the journey, he had into a leather-pouch, which was fastened lad the saddle. ing completely equipped, at five o'clock on 2i)thof July, he took leaveof his companions. Jackson and his Tatar guide rode near a through the Hazar, where the merchants., iina; been apprized when he should go, were iliiigwith their letters. His Tatar took up- ds of two hundred under his charge, this igtlie only method they have of forwarding rs from one city to another. The merchants Tatars are, therefore, always upon very terms; and the olUce of Tatar, as it is of greatest trust, is also very profiluble; for, be- kiM No. CXVII. side their other emoluments, they receive con- siderable presents from the merchants. The let- ters arc not any great inconvenience to them, giving no farther trouble than the mere carriage; for when a Tatar arrives at any considerabld city, the ii^erchants immediately go to the Conac for their letters. Near the western gate of the city a caravan was preparing to set out, several hundred camels being already loaded. As soqn as we were without the gates (says Mr. Jackson) we set off at a brisk trot, the first part of our road being a perfect desert, without the least appearance of vegetation. Having ridden about four miles, we overtook the Tatar's servant with three horses, the one on which he rode had my European clothes, a few necessaries belonging to the Tatar, and a couple of leathern bottles with water. The second horse had only .a cloth on him and a bridle; being brought as a reserve, ia case of any accident happening to the other horses. The third was laden with two bales of merchandize, a thing expressly against our agreement. I had actually deprived myself of many necessaries that I might not be enciimbcrcd; aud now finding that my Tatar had deceived me, I thought of re- turning to Bagdad, and charging him with his breach of contract. Reproaching him for his conduct, I threatened to return, which alarmed him very much, as .such a step would in all pro- bability have ruined him. He solemnly assured me, that he should only take them to Mosul. Though much disconcerted by this conduct ia my Tatar, yet having already paid him five hun- and my Tatar did the same; but I began to ap- prehend some danger, As those winds were so strong even ia the night, what havowk might 7 Z they > '3 ■ If 11. .' . B'lf :^l 1: . li-i § .1 mmii '■im iiil||! !|i ' I :fi 632 A JOURNEY FROM INDIA, TOWARDS ENGLAND. they not make when the sun ^vas at its height, and the' earth at its greatest heat! We continued our journey at the rate of about five miles an hour till efeven o'clock, when we arrived at a town called DoucoUa, where we slept in the open air on a quilt and a pillow, with all our clothes on. This place and Yankja are both small straggling towns, every house being sur- rounded by a separate mud wall. On :he Slat they set out at half past four o'clock in the morning and were soon joi ad by a Turk with a servant and three horses. They pas.«^d through several villages, and saw many very fine fields of corn, with great quantities of game. 6muU cuts that led from a large canal supplied the country with water, and made it very rich; the bridges over these cuts were nar- row, 'ind sometimes dangerous for the horses to pass, being only a few sticks laid across, auu covered with clay. They continued their route at the rate of four miles an hour till half past six o'clock, when we arrived at a Conac in a small village called Hope. A very fine stream of clear water ran through the village, in vtliich were large quantities of turtle. At seven they arrived at a small town, surrounded by a mud wall, called Massabbas, near the banks of the river Deaal. In this neighbourhood were the remains of some military entrenchments. Here \vore several wild hogs, some of which were very large, and of an extraordinary size. They crossed the river Deaal over a stone bridge which had two very lofty stone pillars at one end, and in the evening ar- rived at a village called Chubuccan, where they slept on the bare ground in the open air; and on the next evening liicy arrived at Adanaque. This town is situated at the foot of a range of mountains, running East and West, and is well watered by some clear rivulets that run from the mountains. Though here is plenty of stoi , yet all the houses are built with clay, and an only one slory high. In this place cranes are so abi'ridant, that there is scarcely a house which has not several nests upon 'it. They are very • There were indeed u..! • half a dozen of (hem, but (hey were all well armed; and were ge((ing (heir nja((lilorks ready, in case the Tatar had refused (o comply uith (hvir demands. It requires some (line for a man (<> |>rt'j)are a matchlock, as he has to strike a light. They are very cer- tain at a steady mark, but iithcrwiso cannot be depended upon. They are chiefly rilie.barreU, and the Arabs are near a quarter of an hour in charging them. tame, and the inhabitants never molest th When any thing disturbs these birds, tliey niai3 a violent clatter with their Imig beaks, whj i sometimes repeated by the others all-over ll town; antl this noise will sometimes continue fj several minute:?. It is as loud a« ;> v.atclimanl rattle, and not much unlike it in sound, pr J Adanaque they set out on fresh horses, an ascended the mo.mtains by very narrow pajs. Some were cut through the solid rock, o-iyjn room only for one hor.se to pass at a time* a the top of one of these mountains some AraU were encamped, who exacted a few piastres fro] the Tatar *. After crossing these mountains tha entered an extensive vale, through whichacoi Liderable river runs from West to East, called! the natives Shat-el-Narin. There were seven Arabs with their flocks on the banks of theriia Though a considerable body of water, it is afiJ clear stream; but has no bridge over it neartll place f. 1 They continued their journey till they arrivJ at a town called Karatapa. Hero the Tatar di missed the servant he brought from Bagdat after giving him a severe horse-whippino;. Afi] they left Karalapa, though the road \\as ct'J very rugged, and they h ».! sometiincs diiiiru| enough to discern any track, they rode full gall the greater part of the way. One servant tisuaj leads one or two horses, and those aic whipa by the Tatar or other servants wlio foHi Travelling still on full gallop, they passed m of those encani|)mcnts where (lie Arabs stationed to exact money. As the iiijjjht very dark, no moon being visible, and (lierosj exceedingly rougli, there was scarcely a liol among the party but had one or mure l'a| though those cattle are in general very sua footeil. They arrived at Kuppree after crossa the river \arin over a stone bridge; and in morning of the 23d arrived at a town call Tuscomartee, where they rested. [ Tuscoinartee is very pleasantly situated (oj North, at the foot of some hills, and is + About the banks of (his river were several very aril animals, a species of the Jerboa is described hy llal They burrow like rabbits, seem very tauiu, ami riinf fast upon (heir hind legs. The (ail is extrcmiiy !on| piiiporlion to the body, and has a largo wliitc infii em' When sittirijj on the ground they have niiulii pearancc of rats, but ore about twice the iuv, and^ much lighter colour. watc A JOURNEY FROM INDIA, TOWARDS ENGLAND. 633 •itered by several clear streams that flow from Itliein- I^ commands a very line prospect over an Itxteosive vale to the South; in vrhich it should Ijeem that in winter there is a great deal of grass^ rfire might judge from the long brown tufts that litill remained. The sun is so very powerful at [(bis season as to destroy all vegetation, except iKarthe rivulets that flow from the mountains, Ifbere are numerous flocks of sheep and herds of Itattle. These, however, the shepherds are al- Ifays obliged to drive to the town in the evening, loll account of the wild beasts. Thou^^h there is liview over this vale for nearly, fifteen or twenty DJles, not a single habitation was to be seen. Cniilinuing to gallop the whole of the v ay over ibaTen country, they arrived at a town called ^aooii, which is situated on the North of the jme extensive vale, which is about tvi'enty miles kfcr, and has a chain of mountains on each side, mning East and West. About four miles from ifjook they arrived at a Tepellec, a town in the ue vale, watered by several streams flowing tim the mountains on the North. We did not bop at Tcpclleo, but continued our journey, Iding at about four miles an hour, the roads leing rough, and sometimes intricate*. I On (he 'i4rth they arrived at Kircook, also situ- lied in llic vale before-mentioned. They soon tr ascended the chain of mountains on the right. Ii(ar the summit are several Naphtha pits. rbcse are dug out of the rock, are about three let deep, and into them the Naptha oozes in a kick liquid, having a very strong smell, nearly kftnbling that of our coal-tar, .lust above these lits were several rocks of salt. They soon after ■und themselves among some hills shaped like kj-cocks, which appear to have been so formed f water, being covered with pebbles and shells, lie those usually seen on the sides of the rivers. toward the top of this chain of mountains, these luiid hills were very large; but they gradually Iminifihed for about two miles, when the travellers fended into an extensive vale. This immense Inge of mountains appears as if it had once form- la barrier. Along the top are the remains of I* The Tatars are excellent riders, beiii£[ the greater part 1 1hi'ir time on horseback; they have not, however, the k regard fur the b' asts, but gallop up hill or iIunvd with- pisiinctiun, and keep on till Koiiietiines the horses fall per the fatigue, unable to go any farther. Nevertheless, kehoricsarc much more hardy and able to endure fatigue, a very strong wall, built with stone and cetnented with bitumen. Soon after descending into the vale, they gallopped the greater part of the way, to Alton Kuppree, which is a large and populous town, built on an island formed by the river Alton, which di\ Jes itself close above the town, and uniting again a little below it, the town nearly covers the whole island. Here is at present a very large garrison of Turkish soldiers; and the town may be deemed impregnable, being ditBcult of access, and the use of artillery not known in this country. On entering the town we crossed the river, over which is an exceedingly high stone bridge of one arch. The passage over this bridge is very disagreeable, it being exceedingly steep on both sides, and like a Gothic arch run- ning up to a point in the center. The pavement upon the bridge too is very bad. This town is at present the capital of Turkish Curdistan, and a Bashaw resides in it. On leaving this town they crossed the other branch of the river, over which is a bridge of two archef. This river contains a large body of water, and falls into the Tigris, a few miles be- low the town. Evrill, which is thirty-two miles from Alton Kuppree, appears to have been formerly a place of some importance, for it exhibits the remains of an old castle on the top of an artificial hill on the West side of the town, and in the vicinity are several Naphtha pits. It is said to be the an- cient Arbela, near which Alexander fought with Darius, and the country for some distance round it is an open champaign. On the 25th they set out from Karakoosh, a little after nine o'clock; but the sun was now become excessively hot, the inhabitants began to retire into the shade, and some of thorn down into deep vaults. This part of the country is reckon- ed tlie most dangerous at this season, on account of the Samiel winds, which arc now at their greatest strength, and more people are destroyed by them than in any other way. Both my Tatar and myself being exceedingly v/ell mounted, we than those of Europe. The riders d.> not seem to be much afraid of a fall, which often happen i in galloj>ping down hill; far the cap preserve* the head, the eumberband the body, anfl the strong boots the legs ; and the foot is very easily disengaged from the stirrups, wi ich are iron-platus", nearly as long as the foot. •ti, ^ I i| •■■■i ii'H ' .1' i'li if m 'kSm '.:.'.:• 11 J 65* A JOURNEY FROM INDIA, TOWARDS ENGLAND. set out at full speed, and continued that pace most part of the way, which is near twenty miles; for the Samiel winds were beginning to rise befqre we could reach Mosul, and they would have gained strength so fast, that there is no doubt if thoy had been an hour later, exposed as they were, the whole party, men and horses, would have been laid dead on the ground. They reached Mosul at a quarter before eleven o'clock, after crossing the Tigris over a bridge of boats. Mosul, which is said by some of the inha- bitants to be the ancient Nineveh, is pleasantly situated on a declivity upon the right banks of the Tigris. What it may formerly have been it may be difficult to say, but it is now a very lar.'re town, and contains many handsome buildings, exclusive of the hummums, mosques, and minarets, which are all built of hewn stone. Here is not so much reserve of manners as in the cities to the eastward, women of all descriptions being nearly as much exposed as in Europe. The town is very populous, and comprises men , two feet high, and shaped like the niown of of various religions; but the great bulk of the inhabitants are Curds, or, as the Arabs call Ihem, Kurks. The Bazar is lar/^e and well supplied; and most of the articles, except clothing, arc very moderate. The people appear much more industrious than they are in any of the towns be- tween this place and Bpssorah. Various manu- factories are carried on, and in s(»me they even excel the Europeans. Their saddles and trap- pings for horses, in particular, are very elegant. They also make carpets of silk, with flowers worked in them, which seem to vie with the best of our articles. They are also very dexterous in making edgings «nd trimmings of various kinds, both for men and women. Their manufactories in cupper and iron too are very numerous; and a great variety of articles made of those metals are sent down the Tigris as low as Bussora, ex- clusive of the immense quantity of metal sent down tmmauufactured; fur they get the ore in abundance from the mountains to the northward. The town of Mosul is surrounded by a strong lofty wall built with hewn stone. The space * " I here found," says Mt. Jackson, " that I could not proceed by the usual route, on account of the tlieu tur. bulcut state of the country. The inhabitants of Jesseera were in open rebellion against the Turkish govcruincnt, had killed the Basliaw, and committed laany utber excesses. within the wall is not entirely occupied b» houses, many places being covered with ruim I which proves that it has once been much uiDre I populous than at present. Directly opposite tlie Conac where Mr. Jackson stop pod was the Court of Justice. The trials here are very short; fot i in less than five minutes after the prisoner is taken before the court, if he be found guilty, be ijl C(»nveyed to receive his punishment. The Couitl of JtJistice is opened at sun-rise; but it docs notl continue above two hours; for, as the reader \vi||j perceive, they have a method of dispulejiingj business very quickly*. There was not u iinsoiil in the whole town that understood cither Frciiih] or English. Tliey left Mosul on the 26th of July, and sonnl after they had left the town, many of (he liorsc-l men, to give their beasts a breathing, excrri( niiicli laf)(iur, some of tlieni being extremely large, [+ Fimiiii^ iliat they were not molestcjl by (lies ov other Ik'cl-, and :isriibing this tircunistanec to the exee.ssivo heat (iksun at this season, lie made an e.xperinient on one of iw large loiusts, by exposing it to the sun, which actually (I it ill less than an hour. He also found that Hies, HfiHxposod in the middle of the day, fell down almost in. utiy; and that all kinds of insects must cither get into shade, or inevitably (lerish. 1; liiiiig exceedingly well mounted, says Mr. .laekson, fiiKiicd them at full speed, having with mc two Arabs Bcil with their long spears. W'c overtook them at the liilot, when the whole herd rushed through, and ran losi the plain, except one, \vhich attempted to Jiido Iiim> r among the rushes. The Arabs with their spears soon bd him out. Ho at>0!n)>teU to run across the plain after the Im, but wc pursued closely, and turned him. I soon found ItthcAriiii: -rture more dexterous than niyself, for they had picdhimbefproIwnsablotogctavutatUimwithmysabre. Vol. II. No. CXVII. grass and rushes, growing very thick and long. Among these were several w'ld hogs, Avhich rushed out to the neighbouring plain. A drove of about twenty rtm towards a rivulet, as if they intended to cross the travellers; and all the noise the vhole party could make was not iillicient to turn them;];. There is no fixed residence to be seen near this place, and the tents are only tem- porary, to accommodate travellers who are obliged to pass through this unfrequented route, on account of the present disturbed state of the country. Continuing their route, and after travelliiJg ten miles nearly due West, over an open country which appears to have been once inhabited and cultivated, though now entirely forsaken, they came to some line streams of water, on the banks of one of which are the ruins of a city, which appears to have been once very exten-ilve, and nearly in the shape of a half moon. ILtc were many hewn stones of very large dimensions; and among the ruins was a stone coSin, with the lower part entire, but not any inscription either c\. the stones or on the coflin. About this un- frequented place no living creatures are to be seen, except wild hogs, a few wolves, and some eagles, the latter very tame. The streams, how- ever, abound with fish. On the 29th they arrived at Nissibin, which is at present a small and miserable place; but the many circumjacent ruins imply that it has once been of more consequence. About six miles westward from Nissibin are some magnificent After he had been woiiiidcd two or three times, he l)ccame e\ceiiliui;ly furious, and ran at our liorses, while we en. deavoured (o keep him off with our weapons. The Arabs had the advantage with their long spears, as I could not cut him with my sabre till I was very near him, Througli my inattention and want of experience, he actually touched my horse vith hLs lusks, and I was very near bi.'ng dis. mounted. Such an accident might have proved fata', as the hog would soon have destroyed mo while on the ground. JIo also touched one of the Arab's horses, but did not greatly injure either, the horses being very quick in their motions. Ho foamed at the mouth, and snatched at tho spears, or any thing that rarao near him. While he had strength we were all afraid to close upon him, and enly wounded him as he run at ns. He soon, however, became veak through loss of blood, and we then closed upon him, spearing and cutting till at last he fell, I did not observo that hu made the least noise cither during the chace or while we were killing him. He was rather under tho middle size, and his colour was a deep red. They defend themselTca much longer than I could have imagined, aud whoa irritated, no auimal can bo more furious. 8 A ruios ri li I i? ;i';^ ' ! I'i' ilii. 63S A JOURNKY FROM INDIA, TOWARDS F.NGT.AND. ruins of an ancient palace, which appears to have been very lofty, some parts of the building bcinj^ utill of a great height. Some Curds were draw- ing water from a well in the centre of the inner square, about forty yards deep. The water was very cold and exceedingly clear. The wnlls of the building are of astonishing thickness; a ?tonc staircase remains almost entire; and some parts of the walls, which have been undermined, are so strongly cemented, that in their fall they still adhere togolhcr. About twelve miles westward of the first ruins in anollier heap, among which a very lofty arch remains entire. Near these ruins, and a little out iif the road towards the mountains, were some young Curd women milking their goats. The features of these women were much handsomer than those of the Arabs, and they are neaily as fair as the women in England. IJcing now again exposed in the middle of the day, the excessive heat of the sun was very troublesome. The hot winds too began to collect ; but before they had acquired strength enough to be dangerous, the travellers passed the village called Arin, and ascended Ihe side of the moun- tain towards Mardiu, when they were out of their reach, these winds never prevail in elevated situations ; and whenever they shape their course towards a mountain, they soon subside*. Though there is much cultivation and some fine pasture in the vale below, the people are obliged to drive their flocks towards the mountains, whenever and so long as those winds prevail. Mardin, situated at the top of a very lofty and rugged mountain, is a city of considerable size, and very populous. The greater part of the in- habitants are Armenians, who are very indus- trious, and carry on several manufactories. The city is surrounded by a strong and lofty wall built with hewn stone; and on the summit of the mountain is a strong fort, on which a few cannon are mounted. The city is built on the (South side of the mountain, at a part where it is extremely steep. The houses are well built. The streets run East and West, and have steps commu- nicating from one to another. The basesj of the liouses in the upper street are even with the tops * From near the top of tltcsc mountains, Mr. .Tackson hnil an opportunity of observing the progress of the hot Minds, w hich was nearly similar to what he had observed •f thvin wJica ou the banks of the Ti'im, with thit dili'cr. i of the houses in the street below. T!io rifvl., very well supplied with water, and of gonj quality. The inhabitants, who seem to be v. lioj. pitable well-disposed people, enjoy a pure air have as fair complexions as the people in Kii,,!! land, and in general appear ruddy and licuhl^ Many of the women are very beautiful, audcxi ])ose their persons nearly as much as the ladies mi Europe. Provisions, and vegetables in partj, cular, are plentiful, good, and (heap; HipJ have also most kinds of fruits, and of the lm>'A quality, the climate being exceedingly hut inlhcl valleys, and temperate on the mountains. Thijl city, by its situation, may be said to he iinpncl nable; and some historians aifirm, that 'ranicrLinof laid siege to it for three years, without beiniJ able to reduce it. Finding that it would liel dangerous travelling to Diarbekr without prn-T tection, the Tatar waited on t':e Bashaw \\i||,| the firtuauu, who immediately gave orders fur a guard. On the 30th they left Mardin, accompanieil by one of the Diarbekr Tatars and his atteiidanljj and descended the north side of the mountain oi^ which the city is built; of which, though verd steep and rocky, every little patch of fjroiml capable of cultivation bore proofs of the indiistrif of the Armenians, in abundance of grapes, appW pears, plumbs of various sorts, cucumbcrJ melons, and almost all kinds of European i'ruill and ?getables. The Curd women here ! in tiie fields as well as the men, and rescmbl^ much the peasantry of England. Amon!ercd a strait path between iffo lulty mountains, by which they continued endiiif^ for nearly two hours. On the top the ouiid is highly cultivated. A little farther are mt! higher mountains, on which are no signs if culture. From these, however, there is a lost extensive prospect. To the northward is a hm of exceedingly lofty mountains, ranging W. and S E having their tops covered with ow. Running along the bases of these lofty loiiiitaiiis, (he Euphrates receives many very rge streams that (low from them; and this it is at gives it the appearance of extraordinary iiplitiide near its source. On the left, to the uthwa.d, are many stupendous mountains liith supply the other branch of the Euphrates: iriii this way it receives almost the whole of its loleittg, no large rivers joining it till it meets the igris. Many of the people in ibis country, during Ciiiltry summer months, leave their towns and 68, which lie chiefly in vallies, and encamp on tome lofty hills, taking their flocks with em, On the mountains they enjoy a cooler rer air, and in general appear as fair and (Idy ai the country people in England. Leaving this encampment, they descended m rugged passes by a road so vory bad^ that V«lU. Na.CXVm. it was sometimes with much diflllcuUy they could make their way. At length they reached a small town called Emir, situated on the west side of a pleasant and well cultivated valley, with a very fine stream of water running to the Noith. From Emir they passied a very hilly and woody cotMitry, with seldom any track to direct them. On this account they often lost their way; the Tatar's guide not being well acquainted with the country. Great numbers of peop'e were here employed in making charcoal for the use of (he smelting-houses at Gaban Medan. They carry it from this place on mules in panniers, anil some- times go fifty ur sixty in a drove. Many of the peasantry here lix their dwellings by (he side of a hill, the top of the house being even with (he ground; and Ms. Jackson says, that he has often ridden over the top of a house without knowing it, and has with dilHculty avoided falling through. On the 6th they arrived at the encampment of Hassan Chillaby; for here also the inhabitants, having quitted the town, which was about two miles distant, had encamped on a hill. The people belonging to the tent wherein they rested were very attentive. The whole of the cattle belonging to these encampments are driven every morning into such of the vallies as contain the greatest plenty of water and vegetation, where they are watched all day by two or three persons employed for that purpose, and in the evening are brought back again. The tents are always pitched in a circle, and the cattle remain all night in the centre. The people rise at dawn of day, and the tirst employment of the women is to milk their cows and goats, which are immediately sent ofl* again to pasture. The women then put the milk into a sort of bottle made of a goat's skin, every part of which is sewed up, except the neck; but when they are churning, the neck is tied with a string close and tight enough to prevent the milk running out. They then fix three strong sticks in the ground, in a form some- thing like what we often use in raising weights, only on a smaller scale. From these they suspend the goat's'skio tied by each end, and continue shaking it backward and forward till it becomes butter; and they easily know when it is ready by the noise it makes. They then empty the skia into a large vessel, skim off the butter, put hot water ioto the ikin to clean it> and bang it up to 8B " dry, * w\ ■JtN .1., iiii CiO A JOURRV FROM INDIA, TOWATlDfl ENGF.AND. ilry. Reside this employment, tlicy Iinvc also to baltc bread every inoriiin^ for the day's coii- sinnptioii; for all this work is performed hy tlic >voiiieii. The bread U baked on hirj^o iron phites, as in many parts of Kurope; but should uny of the women hup])en to lie htnger than usual in the morning', »h> as not to he able to get their work done before the sun becomes hot, they not only have to work in the sun, but are heartily laughed at by the better housewives. The principal men who have many wives keep them in tents in a particular part of the encamp- ment. About four miles from Hassan Chillaby, are neither cultivation nor inhabitants, though there is plenty of good water, and the soil appears favourable for culture. Here they met a caravan going to Diarbckr, which consisted of horses, asses, and mules, camels not being able to thrid many of the steep narrow passes with which this country abounds. On the 7(li they arrived at Had jec Khan, which is a large village lying in a valley. The land is \vell cultivated for about half a mile round it; but the inhabitants in general are very poor, and much addicted to thieving. On this plain, which tliey passed over the next day, were three encampments, pitched in a triangle. Two of these were near the path. When I got abreast of the first encampment, an officer and six men from the guard came up to me on full gallop, and said that the people in the encampment would cut my throat. They took Ivold of Mr. Jackson's bridle and wanted him to return; but thinking it useless, as a part of the guard were now in sight, he remained till the whole of our party came up. A few men came from the encampment and conversed with the officer. They were remarkably strong hardy looking fellows, but had a something in their countenances which seemed to indicate that they did not get their livelihood very honestly. Having enquired who I was, says Mr. Jackson, the officer told them that I was^n English Consul, that being the title I bore in the firmann. The men examined the arms of our guard very at- * These people seem to be most violcpi: against (he Tatars, who frcqiiciitly pass through the country without j)aying any tribute; for, being the messengers of govern- mcut, tliey think they ought to be exempt. The people here (lemaudcd fifteen piastres from each Tatar, who, tcntively, and w ishcd io lay liold of ionifi of H,. but the guards would not snll'cr it. J „. ^'\ under the least apprehension of their (Joiiin.""'! any pcrnoual injury, even before tji,; i„||jj"*| came up; for in case they had attacked „j,/[l should not have attempt< d to resist; |i,,| il thought it prudent afterwards to keep ,',ear n, I Tatar. On our reaching the second eiiraiii|)i„ci/| four men, armed with sabres and pistols. stoii||| in the way to oppose our passing; and as wirod up, they seized my bridle, my Tatar's, aiil| those of two other Tatars in company, \\\u) \v(fj all riding abreast a little before the military f was perfectly passive, not supposing that ilipd could mean to rob us, as the military wereoiil, a few yards behind. A scnille, however, e, sued; but the guard coming up rescued' nicj Ttie man who had held my bridle in one liaiid jiadt drawn sabre in the other; but on oneo^'dicolllcoJ telling him that I was an English Cc-iisnl, he iJ mediately let go the bridle. I had my histoU ready, and was prepared to have shot my op] ponent, had any of the Tatars tired; biitldiif not think it proper to begin, not kiiowiiicj tliejnj tentions of these people. One of the Tatar] cocked a pistol to shoot a young man whospfmw to be very violent; but the military intcrlcrind prevented him. The young man, liowcvor, co* tinuing to threaten the Tatar with liii sihre, ilij guard, by order of one of the offit. , . 'rrou _ ed him in such a manner with their spears ani Siibres, that had he moved an inch he iiiihtliail been killed In that situation wu kit tlitm] but they soon after came up with us, atidliai not put the young man to death as I e\[iccte(l'( This is a very extensive uncultivated plaJ and contains neither sheep nor cattle but wbJ belong to these banditti. The gromid, howeiel being favourable to tilting, and the horses wiJ the silver travelling very slowly, onr jjiiarl made several matches. They would soiuctiJ draw out of the ranks half a dozen on eachsidj and throw blunted spears, at which exercise the] men are wonderfully dexterous, being able pick up spears from the ground without quittioj their horses. They have also a particulj having such a strong guard with them, boldly rcriiscd. Tl young man whom 1 have just mentioned as haviiii; bef mure violeat tUan the rest, had lately had a brother Mi a Tatar. netliil A JOUFINEY KHOM INDIA, TOWARDS KNGI.AND. OH Lflliod of avoiding tlieir opponeiilH' spears bv . „„i„g(|own on tho vipposKe side of the lunsc, I odlliin expoHinp: only one foot, y«'t ul the sauic I'l^j going on full galiop. The horsenifiii luakc-i I fv liHlc use of the reins on these occasicms, and lllie horH« is tjoverned by the motions of tho rider's luv. If ^*"' \aiU't lean towards t'.ic rijfht or ly (he horse will turn to that side, and if the Ijiotionbc quick will gallop full speed. If the Ifiilor lean forward, the horse {gallops straiglit on; lindiftlic man raise his body upright, the horse, Ihouch a* *'•"* ^''"*' "" '^"'^ speed, wlli stop in a moment, without the rider touching the bridle. At about six miles distance from the second jjcainpnicnt, they approached another, the Chief tf which came, and demanded money from the L„jn,aiiding officer, which was refused. lie lot however, a few piastres from the Tatar. ThcytliPn continued unmolested till they got jilhin about two miles of Uelectetas, when they terved some men armed, on Iiorseback. pur- Lyr ihcm at full speed from the second en- LaipniPiit, where they had the dispute. The latar^, being miu'h frightened, set out full lillop for Delectctas, an(l as Mr. Jackson was Ipjicd ill the same uiiinner, and thought they (iijlit lake him for a Tatar, he pushed on with Itm, It-aviiig the military drawn up to receive Jem, When the banditti came up with the lililarv, and found that the Tatars had rode oil", lev returned. These people always keep a innber of horses near their tents to be mounted fa short notice, and some of them ready bridled Ljaddli'd. IDtlt'clttas is a small town, situated on the side ]a mountain, in a barren country, and having jlle lultivation ab(»ut it in proportion to the Lbtr of its inhabitants. Here is plenty of led water; and in the middle of the town is a Ige square stone building. Many of the in- ^ilants have stacks of corn on the tops of their luscs. Here also were som^ stacks of hay. , Oh leaving Dt' jtctas, we^c ^ery rough roads long some 8tee|» mountains covored with fir- Bcyond these is an extensive uncultivated [in, and on the 9th arrived at a town c»lled L$h, pleasantly situated by the side of a river lich flows from the mountains, and runs iiito { Mr. Jackson informs iie, that ho wont into the llazar kuysuinc fruit, and foiiii^l ti)at lie could purcliasu for iTiiluc uf a. farthing as vmch as a maa could cat of cUhcr the river Ciisalinack. Hetween the town and some rnoiMitains to the northward are two salt lakes, one about three miles in circumference, the otiier about two. From l)lla>di, in the neigh> bourhood of which there is a great deal of culti- vatit>n, we departed in an hour. There aro several other lakes of the same kind on the left, which arc easily distinguished, their shores being crusted with salt. Shortly after they arrived at Sivas, which is a very large populous town, and is exceedingly well watered, having several fountains and a great many clear streams running through it. It is seated on the west side of a very fertile valley, which is almost surrounded by lofty mountains, having iiu opening except where the river runs in and out, through a very narrow channel between two steep hills. Here arc two stone brid;;;cs at about a mile distance from each other. Great quantities of corn grow in this valley, but u(>t much fruit, excepting plums, apples, and pears; but of garden vegetables there is great abundance. In the middle of the town are some very extensive gardens; and on an ar- tificial hill is an old castle now tumbling into ruins. Though the neighbourhood furnishes plenty of good materials for building, the houses in ge- neral have a very ordinary appearance, a great quantity of unsquared timber being employed to siipfiort an immense weight of stone and clay, with w hich the houses are covered. The inhabitants ap- pear to enjoy much liberty; nor are the women confined, as in some large cities to the eastward, Sivas is nearly as large as Liverpool, contains as many houses, and is fully as populous. Though most of the private houses arc but indiirorent structures, many of the public buildings are elegant, and some of the minarets very lofty. On the 10th, after dcaieuding through some narrow passes, they arrived at Tocat, which is about the size of Sivas, but has a much better appearance than any town in the Turkish do- minions. Th'j houses are all tiled, and coiefly built with wood. Here was a great abundance of fruits, which were remarkably fine in their kind; the grape vines, in particular, were abun- dant and excellent*. The Armenians, who are very numerous here, make an excellent red wine, of a flavour something like claret, but mncli 1 2 mulberries, pears, apples, peaches, or apricots; and those^ in general, much &aet ia their kiud thaa ku cvcc saw ia KurofCt atro'iger. m\. M ■hl-';F. lil-iiil 642 A JOURNEY FROM INDIA, TOSVARnS F.NGLAND. J i ■III . 1- 1 i» I III i I lip < I 1 1 I I 1 ] ^^— Btrongei . The town is surrounded by eminences, and is well watered. On the top of a lofty rocky mountain, on the west s'de of the town, are the remains of an old castle, part of the wall of "which has been built on the edge of a very steep rock, and mu'^h of it has fallen down the pre< cipice. They set out on the 1 1th, from Tocal, and, being nil badly mounted, and the greater part drunk, made a curious figure as they rode through the town. The streets being much crowded, the Tatars roared like so many bulls for the people to clear the passage, every one being obliged to give way to them, as in England to the mail coaches; and if they were not very quick in getting out of the road, they were sure to feel some of the Tatars long whips. On the 12th thsy arrived at Amasia, a very extensive town, nearly as large as Tocat, and surrounded by many lofty rugged mountains. The faces of some of these mountains have nearly half a mile of almost perpendicular height; and in one of these are several pieces ."ut iu the solid rock, similar to a Hindc<' Pagoda, and vyhich can only be approached by little narrow passes cut through the rock. The river Casalmack runs through Amasia, but cannot be seen at one \iew for more than the length of the town, making a circuitous course among the mountains, and running in a deep narrow channel both above and below the town. It is here a very large river, but much too rapid for navigation. The town is well watered, particularly the lower parts, by means of large wheels, nearly thirty feet in diameter, are turned by the stream, having a great many large buckets fastened to thera. As the wbeel turns round, those bncke's empty themselves into troughs fixed within a few feet as high as the wheel. By 'this method they are enabled to keep up a continual stream of vater, which is conveyed by pipes from the troughs to the hummums, fountains, &c. The houses in Amasia are mostly built with vrood. but many with stone, and covered with tiles as at Tocat. The greater part of the inhabitants being Christians, heie is only one mosque, and two lofty minarets, all built with be^AD elone, * A Sivu Tatar, bsmed Suliman, who had sccompauied 01 from Sivai, attempted to ibout another Tatar who was Teturninft from Conttaotinoijle, but was prevented by the test laUttuing. It is io^otuble to dv'!«€ribe the cenfuiiun '^/■. and very handsome struct>i'''e8. The dorao af tU mosque is covered with lea*!. The hummuml are very extensive, and built with hewn stoneJ Before these are some pleasant walks, with several rows of trees, and the whole is tnirrounded bvi lofty wall. The town can only be apprnachs by two narrow passes, one toward tiie North and aiiDther toward the South ; and these are si very rugged, narrow, and steep, that they niiglJ be easily defended by a very small fdrce. The/ make here a very good white wine, somethiij like sherry, and very strong. With this ani rackec our whole party again got drunk*. On leaving Anjasii, they ascended a vervloftJ mountain towards the northern pass, and bcl'oH they got to the top it became \ery dark. they came near a spring of water, tlie fj^iiide sai that he wanted to drink. Puttinir, theictore, ||J the tore-tiorse's bridle into the Tiirk'.i hand, t| hold it till he returned, he availed iiimsi'irofilJ darkness of the night to run away uiiptTccivel They waited for hiiu sometime, but ai ianiiiii) peeting the case, pursued the journey. tJ Turk leading three horses, they wiih n diificulty got to the top. Here they mimi their road, but were fortunate enough to discovl a light, which proceeded from a mouII i nraiiij ment, where some of the inhubilunts of Aiu* were employed in getting' in their harvest. At length they got from among these dans;e| ous steeps, and on the I3\h, de^-ended intuane tensive uncultivated vale about fifteen miles nvg which they crossed at full gallop, and arrivcdl Marsiwan in the evening. * Marsiwan isaloj nearly as large as Sivas, and situated near i foot of sonic woody mountains on t!ie north si| of this extensive vale. It is well watered, abounds with cum, as well as most kinds I fruits, which were now ripe. They have nJ vineyards near the tow:i, and m&ke a vcr) gM red wine similar to that of Tocat. About twenty miles west of ]\iarsiwan ijatoj called Ajamque, and about ten miles tartherl Osmanjike, which town is built round a At rocky mount, on the top of which also sof houses have been erected, It is a tolerably I place, and stands on the banks of the river Atoej among these people when the^ quarrel. Upon i by a very narroi channel over which is a stone bridge. Tl ground being swampy, there is a stone caiisewaj of about a quarter of a mile long, for the coi veuience of passengers. On the 2Cth they set out from Chaque and after crossing tlie bridge and causeway at head of' the lake, ascended some hills, whence a very fine prospect over the Archipelago ai the surrounding country, which hud a mo favourable appearance than in the ncighhnui hood of Constantinople, it being in high ciiltiv tion and almost crowded with vill three hours they arrived at Bcu Chaque jMcdji which is a tolerably large town^ situated on (I A JOURNEY FROM INDIA, TOWARDS ENGLAND. G45 Welt side of ft liill at the bead of a salt luke bout four miles long, which has conimiinication ,vitb the sea. Here too is a stone bri' between the lake and the sea. Nearly opposite to Bcu Chaque Mcdja, on the East side of a hill, is a jinall neat town called Callitratta, behind which are ma"}' vineyards. Continuing their route along the beach twelve I -jieg further, they reached a vtiy neat town called Badns. Here is a considerable building itanding on the beach, having part of its walls I washed by the sea. It is a square structure and wry lofty; the whole is built entirely with hewn jtone, has been very well finished, and still re- I mains almost entire. After passing many vineyards and orchards, I Hey arrived at Killeever, which is a large and populous town, that has once been well fortified, [a great part of it- being still surrounded by a iitrongwall. Some of the mosques and minarets lire very handsome buildings. The lower part of lllietown is washed by the sea. Here were several hetsels, some of about two hundred tons burden, Itiding at anchor in a very fine bay, which ap- Ipeared to be so well s^ieltered by the high land ion each side of it, tLat ships might, in any jieather, ride in safety. From Killeever they set out on the 27tli, and lournied about eight miles along the sea-shore, Ltnetimcs on the beach. They then turned to the Iright, and, quitting the sea-coast, passed over open country, with little cultivation and few inhabitants. The first village is Connyclue; tfter leaving which place they travelled across a ^cry dreary country, in which not a tree nor a llone was (o be seen. The soil is very white, kut is neither clay nor sand ; and what little vcgc- Wion there is, is nearly destroyed by innumerable kuantitics of ground squirrels. The first signs if cultivation they met with wcfre the vinevHrdg lelonging to a town c.illed Chouroc, and which Ire near three miles long. About eight miles evond Chouroe they crossed a river, over which I a bridge of fifty arches, all built with hewn one, and neatly turned. So many arches, huw- I * The Greeks in general liarc hanJsomo foatures-, but lese ptrtkiilarly attrac((^d his altciitiun. Thoy, as wull I the pua,«ttntry in general, jiad a very ridiculous custom f tying all their treasure rouiul their necks; they some. ucs wear three at four huuiUcd Vvnctiaa scquius pcr- ever, did not appear by any means necessary at present, as there was not a great body of w ater in the river. They now entered a country pos- sessing higher cuUivation and more inhabitants,, and about a quarter of u mile out of the road, i» a town called Carrasdan. In a deep narrov<» valley near this town are three lofty stone pillars, wlii<;h w.-^re to support nipcs for conveying water across the valley to tl.c town. In the evening they reached Borgas, and on the 28th they en- tered a large forest, in vvhitti they continued for about twenty ; tiles without seeing either habita- tion or culture, till they reached a small village called Assibaly. From this place to Kirklecsan, about four miles, the whole way is covered witlii. vineyards. This is a very large aiul populous- town, having ten mosques and minarets, and seve- ral huminums. All the public buildings are of hewn stone and marble, and some of them very handsome. In the afternoon they arrived at a village called Canarea, where they put up at a Greek's house to refresh. The Greeks are a very civil and obliging people, and the host brought out thc' best refreshments he had in the house. In these' small villages there are very few Turks, and if there be one, it is almost certain that he is a barber; but he will strut about and assume as much consequence as a bashaw. In th" evening they arrived at a town called Karrapoonar. The distance from Kirklecsan to Karrapoonar is fifty- one miles. On the 29th they arrived at a village called RtMilce, and stopped half an hour at a Greek's house to refresh. The master of the house had two very beautiful daughters*. Continuing their journey, tbcy arrjved at Idos, a tolerably targe town, and pleasantly situated. Many of the houses arc built within a compound, similar to those of the Bratnius and Nairs in India, which inakes the town at a distance appear much larger than it really is. The peasantry here separate the corn from the straw by the same method as in Asia Minor, which is adopted in all countries wher^ the rains .%re periodical. ^ They make a ring about forty foratcd and fastened round ti>eir nucks »ith silk strings. Tliis custom, however, is coiifiuod to tiie unuwrried part of the sex, wives having no grnument ^vhatever un that part of their personSf . ...;,.,■ ,y- > .J : .' yard* t ii; iil A Si (;,■) ;,f| M y^ than the mode of thrashing in England. On the 30th they arrived at Pravadee, which is a large and well inhabited town, containing many very good buildings.. It is situated in a narrow vale running N. and S. between two steep rocky hills. In the afternoon they reached Chumloo, which is a very populous town, and, though not regularly fortified, is of great natural strength from its situation, having a steep moun- tain l>ehind the town, forming a stmicircle, on %vhicli the Turks have planted several butteries of cannon*' On the western side of the mountain is a thick forest which is perfectly inaccessible to an army. On the 31st they arrived at Rochuke, but could not see the town till within half a mile of it, being situated on the banks of the Danube at the foot of a hill, which continues for several miles near the river, and is covered with vineyards. Rochuke is a large populous town about the size of Liverpool. They refreshed at Ergnoflf, on the opposite side of the river, and waited near two hours for horses and carts, in which they were conveyed to a village called Copuchen. This was the manner in which they were to travel through Wallachia. These post carts are light, and run very easy upon four wheels. They have not, either about the cart or the horses* furniture, the smallest particle of iron or other metal what- * During the late war a considerable Russian army ap. pearcd in the plains before this town, and defeated the Turkish forces. The latter retreated into the town, and threw up a mud wall with a fussc and paling before the town, and UP each side of the mountaiu. This temporary fortiftca> 2 ever. The horses are small, but rim very f <. going, upon an average, rather quicker than ttip mail coaches in England. On the Ist of September they reached Bukarest the capital of Wallachia, and the residence of th' Hospodar. Bukarest is a very extensive an I populous city, containing iiiice hundred and sixty Greek churches, one RciPan and oi Lutheran chapel, and a few convents. Here ar no Turkish mosques, nor are they permi((e(i(„ be built in any part of the province, Genlleiucirj carriages are here v6ry numerous, and a niiin ij looked upon in no other light than as a servant or a peasant, who does not keep one. A coach with a pair of horses and a driver, may be all kept hers for fifty pounds sterling. The caacli- men and footmen are in general Egyptian slaves There is much intrigue carried on in the hix'lier classes, particularly among the married people A man never sees his intended bride till theycx^ change rings, a ceremony that takes place a fe» days before the marriage; for tlhe parents or guardians of both parties make up the match without asking the consent of either. In a vcrii short time after the marriage ceremony the partbl generally discontinue sleeping together, carrying on their respective intrigues. Tht ladies usually keep their separate carriages, a A coach, with a proper equipage, is commonly al part of the marriage portion. The unmarriedl young ladies, however, ave kepi up as close as iJ a nunnery, and are not permitted to keep cotol pany with any men whatever until the ceremo»ff of exchanging rings with their intended husbandl has taken place. There are few people \aM world, particularly among those who call tlieml selves Christians, that make more profession ol religion than these people, and in reality luva less. In some of the cnurcbes here they hav^ prayers continually from morning till night, and these arechaunted as in Catholic chapels. Thcid language is harmonious, something rcsemblini the Greek, and indeed has several Greek cha| racters in it. ^ i t»»n-<>* Wallachia poss^scs in general a rich soil, bul is rather woody. In the greatest part ut'thi tion still remains rniire. As the lliissian arroyapproary the town, thu Turks played upon them from their BjltcriJ on the mouutaiu. The Ruisiani here lost their general iij retreated. A JOURNEY FROM INDIA, TOWARDS F.NGf.AND. 64>r liear I rtvincc there is scarcely a hill or stone the 'tiiral produce of the country. Their corn is "Jieflv maize, of which they have a great quan- t . yet J^ood wheatcn bread is to be had in the fleet t"""'^- Pr<>^'si»«'s "f '^'^ '^'"'^^ """^ ^^"".V lap- »"'' * ^"*^ *^"*' "'^-^ ''^ bought for six L£li parra, value about three halfpence Iteilip?. ''he inhabitants in general are Greeks, ! J ihcv have not many foreigners among them. if ,i,c larger towns, however^ there are some jewaiida ffw Germans. They erect crucifixes leaf Ihc roads; some of these are of stone, bui licv arc chiefly made of wood. All, however, ite painted; some having Jesus Christ, some '.he I'irgiii Mary, others the Twelve Apc.biles, sc.-.uj ibeTen Commandments, prayers, &c. depicted them. These Crucifixes are very numerous, i most of the country people make their „„ience as they pass (hem. The province is "ell watered; the bridges are all built with ood; but they have a very ridiculous custom of yiiiff loose pieces of half-squared timber across e bridges, which frequently give way under the lorsrs fVt't. On the 4th Mr Jackson resumed his journey, (ravelled much faster than he could have ex- ed, and even quicker than (he mini in Eng- , as will appear by the following distances (owns through which he pased. Omian Posts. n 2 3 2 1| U Jukarest to Polontine Florest _ - - Giest Gierbuoff Fittest Moara - Argish . - _ Sala(rook Perishaw Keeneu - _ > Rothen Thurn Pass, where he) . performed quarantine, ) ^ 2 2 He arrived at the Rothen Tliurji Pass in the afternoon of the 5th September, when his qua- rantine commenced. He had brought letters from M. de Merkclius to the Director of the l^a/aretto, howover, which proved of much ser- vice ; for he was in consequence particularly at- tended to, had a servant appointed to wait on him, and was supplied with plenty of the best pro-, visions, wine, and fruits. He performed qua- rantine here ten days. From the night of the 2 ')th August to the even- ing of the 3ist, he had travelled six hundred and seventy-two English miles, as will appear by the following distances, given me by M. de Merkelius, the Director of the Post. German Postj. From Constantinople to Rochuke on the Danube, through Romaliaand Bulgaria 50 From Erguoii' on the Danube to Rukarest 6 56; liich, reckoning twelve English nules to a iMiiiaii post, is two hundred and seventy ill's . I which, reckoning twelve English miles to a i German post, is six hundred and seventy-two I miles. I The latter has been accurately ascertained by i the German engineers, who had the conducting j of artillery to Erguoft' in the late war. ! On the 14th September Mr. Jackson's qua- ! rantine expired, the day on which he arrived i being reckoned as one, because he was there I before sun-set; and on the following morning he ' set out in the post-cart, a carriage built on pur- , pose, and with better accommodations and more I conveniencies than the Wallachian; though both. \ arc very light. The road for the first six miles ; was near the banks of the river Alauta, with very i high hills and thick woods on each side. There I are many steep narrow passes here, but just I broad enough for the carriage, and which have j been cut out of (he solid rocks. At Boetzhar all j his passports, and certificates of having perform- ed the quarantine, were examined. After getting \ through those passes they entered a fine opeu '■ country, in whicl» numerous villages and some considerable towns were to be seen, and the greater p^rt of the whole was cultivated. At f length he arrived at Hcrruianstadt, the capital of Transylvania. Tilt? abevc arc not tlic only towns tlirough which he |t>'(!; but are specifiod as bciiis; the places appointed fur \>.\ lioiscs, which are always kept ready on purpose to iiviy ilu! C 01 man mails, and ate paid for that surviuo by Vol. II. No. CXYIII. > r . M. d(! Morkcliiis, who has great put of the management of I forwarding the GernKin post from Coiistantiiioplc to (ho . frontiers, and through whose h mils all t'lO Kas! India Com. 1 pany's dispatches pa»», on their \>av' to Vienna. 8 U ilc rrmanttadt (>;• V^ ^i ' ■! i ■H %' ' '!«. f'A: «48 A JOURNET FROM INDIA, TOWARDS ENGLAND. Herrmanstadt is a tolerably well built city. The promenade is very pleasant, and they have also a very handsome theatre. Their music is excellent, having the advantage of some of the best German performers. The people are very polite, and obi(;rve much formality; for no per- son above the rank of a servant can walk in Ihe .streets without a sword by his side. They are also very particular in their dresses; and a native of the province wears a dress similar to what is ■worn in England upwards of a hundred years ago, viz. a long coat almost reaching to the ground, trimmed all round with fur; a pair of j boots like those of our heavy cavalry, with a cocked hat something like a Dutch skipper's. People from every province are known here by their respective dresses; and even every tradesman is distinguished by his apparel. Whoever visits this city, if he can spare two hours, should not neglect seeing Baron Brukenthall's extensive collection of the most valuable paintings, many of which are by the first masters, Guido, Rubens, Rembrant, &c. His antique coins, medals, and other curiosities, also are well worth seeing. His library is very extensive, and considered of great value. He has likewise a beautiful garden about half a mile out of the city, laid out after the English taste. The Baron is almost eighty years of age; he was many years Civil Governor of this province, andspeaksEnglish tolerably well. Transylvania is, generally speaking, a fine country, but capable of much improvement. It produces great quantities of most kinds of grain, and flax of a very good quality, which is manu- factured into linen. The nobility arc for the most part very proud, and keep,their peasantry in a state of slavery; for out of six days in the week the peasant is obliged to labour four for his master, having only the remaining two days for himself. This province pays to the Emperor in taxes of all kinds one million five hundred thou- sand florins annually, which is chiefly imposed upon the land, for what the citizens pay is very trifling indeed. On the 18th he left Herrmanstadt, and travelled post, by day and night, till he arrived at Temeswar, the capital of Banate, where he was detained a few hours to have his passport ex- amined. This being a strong fortification, the officers were very particular in examining ail itraogerg, and he was obliged to go before the General Commandant, with whom he cobvum J in Latin. When infornied that he xm t Englishman he shewed him much attention The Banate is a very fine province, the ercateri part of it being level and well cultivated, excentl on that side adjoining to Transylvania, which i! mountainous and woody. Provisions of all kind? are good and cheap; and their wines are ex- cellent, particularly at a large town called Luffnj From Herrmanstadt he went to Pest, which ii at present the capital of the kingdom of Iluncarv It is a large and populous city, and has hcei much improved within the last six years, greai part of the cUy having been entirely rebuilt is seated on the left banks of the Danube. Qi the opposite side of the river is the city of Offen nearly as large as Pest, and remarkable for i(! excellent wines, which are held in much estcci all over the empire. Offen is situated on the side of a hill facing tin South, which is covered with vineyards for aboi six miles below the city. The wine is red ar something like port, but has a stronger body ang is very rough. On the river Danube below Pest, are man floating corn- mills, which are adniirabl)' adapti for the purpose. The vessels on which the niilli are built are always kept afloat, and at anchor] in the middle of the stream; the wheel isturnei by the current. On the 2.5th September he set out from Pf«| and arrived at Vienna the same night. Thi road was in general tolerably good, and b travelled about as quick does the mail coaci in En^lancf 12th October he left Vienna, comini Bohemia, and remaining two davs Prague to take a view of the city and its environ! Leaving Prague he came on to Dresden, tlii capital of Saxony, where he remained two dav There is a degree of elegance in this ci»y andthi neighbourhood, superior to most other place TUe gallery is supposed to contain the largest am best collection of paintings in Europe, and itlui lately received considerable additions; for, oi the French entering Italy, many o f the best pieci were conveyed to Dresden, as a place of safety After leaving Dresden, he travelled througl Leipsic, Halle, Halbcrstadt, Brunswick-Lunei burg, and to Hamburgh, which he reached o| the evening of the 28th October. England. On the through END OF MR. JACKSON'S TOUR. Ijora he coDverif J en attention. I 'vince, the greater! Jultivated, except! i>lvania, whichj visions of all kindjj !ir wines are ex-T own called LugoJ to Pest, vvliicii id ;donj of Iluiigarvl ity, and has bccj ist six years, gread itirely rebuilt, ij the Danube. Oil the city of Offenj remarkable for jti d in mucheslceni of a hill facing I vineyards for abou he wine is red ar I stronger body ani w Pest, are nian< admirably adapiei on which the mi aat, and at anchor! the wheel is turns set out from Pfilj same night. 'M Ay good, and hj iocs the mail toacH !ft Vienna, comioi ining two davs i ity and its environJ on to Dresden, remained two dmi in this city and Ihi most other placei tain the largest anI Eujopc, and itiial additions; for, oi ny of the best piecej i a place of safeljl travelled througl Brunswick-Luneof lich he reached o| er. i "ii^ p giffi -\ K =4.1 -^Vll:s^\ 1 iVs.^* >» 1 \ ( Jitl'-^ ^nr 1 ,i\ 5^ I V\ i|»v , nJHMMlr/ iF* \ w Kii GENERAL GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION .... ^■' . Ililillll R, i rfif HiyJUliyJiUULiJLliLi ^ Oi- Tllli WORLD, EUROPE. THIS part of tbe globe is the smallest in ex- tent, yielding considerably to Africi4. From llhe rock of Lisbon in the west, to the Uralian jinniintains in the cast, the length is about 3,300 IBritish miles; and the breadth from North Cape linDinish Lapland to Cape Matapan, the soiith- lern extremity of Greece, is about 2,350. The Itootents in square miles is about 2,500,(KX). Limits.] On the south the continental part is Ibounded by the Mediterranean Sea, on the west |by the Atlantic, which contains the furthest lEurnpean isle, that of Iceland, Greenland being Itegarded as a part of North America*. On the liiorllithe boundary is the Arctic Ocean, embracing Itliereinole isles of Spitzbergen and Novaya Zeni- llia, or the New Land. Toward the east the lUralian mountains is admitted as a boundary. Religion.] The christian religion prevails llhroughout Europe except in Turkey, where Ikwever at least one half of the inhabitants are littached to the Greek church. Wherever the Ichristian faith has penetrated, knowledge, in- Idustry, and civilization have followed : among |(he barbarous tribes in the north the progress was lunhappily slow, Scandinavia remaining pagan llill the eleventh century; and some Sclavonic i on the south of the Baltic till the thirteenth; bay, it is not above a century ago since the Laplanders were converted by missions from «nraark. The two grand distinctions are ca- Ibolics and protcstants : the former in the south, irlierc the passions arc more warm and the imagination more delighted with splendour ; the itter in the north, whci-e the satisfaction of the I * In the opinion of several geographers, the Azores or Western Isles are clearly liluropcan, being nearer to Por- judgment predominates. This universality of the christian religion has been followed by another superlative advantage, that of constituting all Europe, as it were, into one republic, so that pny useful discovery made in one state passes to the rest with celerity. Ci.iMATK ] Europe is chiefly situated in the temperate zone: if such distinctions have not vanished from geography since modern dis- coveries have evinced, that the climate often de- pends on local causes; that the Alps in a south- ern latitude present mountains of ice unknown in Lapland : that the torrid zone abounds with water »nd habitations, and may perhaps contain mountains covered with snow. Yet freedoni from the excessive heats of Asia and Africa has contributed to the vigour of the frame, and the energy of the mind. Inland seas.] In a general view of Europe one of the most striking and interesting features is the number and extent of the inland seas; justly regarded as chief causes of the extensive industry and civilization, r.ud consequently su- perior to the other grand divisions of the globe. Among inland seas the Mediterranean is justly pre-eminent, having been the centre of civilization to ancient and modern Europe. The columns of Hercules marked its western boundary; being the mountain or rock of Abyla, now called Ccuta, and Kaipe in Spain, the Gibraltar of modern fame. The length of the Mediterranean is about 200{) miles to its farthest extremity in Syria. On its northern side open two large gulfs, that of Venice and Archipelago. From this last a strait called the Hellespont conducts to the sea of Marmora; and another now styled the strait of tugal than to any other continental lanii, while the Madeiras, for the same reason, belong to Africa. Constan- •.■.'II ■ * ii I 0 to 12^) fiet. To enumerate and ascertain shoals and rocks is the office of the hydrographer ; but fishing banks are of general importance, and some are found near Sicily. The second grand inland sea of Europe is the Baltic, which extensive inlet opens from the German sea by a gulf pointing N. E. called the Skager Rack; and afterwards passes south in what is called the Cattegat, to the S. E. of which is the sound of Elsinore, a strait where vessels pay a tribute of courtesy to Denmark. The Baltic afterwards spreads widely to the \. E. and is divided into extensive branches called the ' • Yi't this cnorinous waste iii in (he Imml of I'rovidcnce a fcrfili! field of provisions for the human race. H,-!37 Cheliiui'ord Hertfordshire 9 -,67 7 Hertford _:\ri(ldlesex 6. 5'!, '-9* London Three south- ' Surrey 269,043 Guildford Kent i;07,(ix'4 Maidstono eastern 1 .Sussex 1;)9,.J11 Lewes Earl's depnty, the Sliire.rceve, slicrill" or manager of tlis shire. Yorlishiro being very extensive it was divided into three parts, called in S.ixon trithings, now corruptly called Ridings. It is also generally believed that Alfred fonnded the sub- divisions of ctMinties called Hnndreils and Tythings, now seldom montii'.ied except in le^al proceiMlings and in topo. graphical descriptions. The Hundred probably contiincil one hundred farms, while the Tything was restricted to ten. * Exclusive of the capital. SE Four '! \i- it >. •■r i 1 ■!„; '' M *! !N 652 GrOGRAPIlirAT: DT'SCRlPTrON OF TllH WOHM). Four southern Tliri'o south, wisteru (Bi'ik->hu'e 5 Wilt-hire llI.lm|l^hi^B K'ii»'>ir nf JiilniliilaiiLt un nrilli:g In llii: Ma Clliff Towns. iJnimfriiliiin. {i ft ti li LI' 10 V l> H<.Ml1il1f( is.'i.ior S.ili.lmry ;M',I,0jO \Viii(ln-.t.'r iivmi Porilii'sit-r i.'7J,:.'io T.iiiiitou .'14i,0()l llxcllT i«H,'-'i;'j l.auiircstuil ■'i'.i,iiJ2 KUrit (;o,;!.')'i DciiljiRh '1I,.'>21 CiUfrriiirvoii n.},H()(i KoauniarU ij'.i,.'i()() B.ila 47 07H Mnnip'Miiory 1>.|,()'>1) rri-sl,'ii;;i ■la.'.i.iCi C'.ir(lii;.iii .'iii.'jao PiMiilirukr Iir,.il7 ('.iiTiu.irllim oi,i;.i.) HurkiK.ck 7l,V,!J c'.iiTiiiir ...jniiT■ M .1 nr 1 J tJiriiaivoiiiliiro S,x,Nurlh\V.lcs< ,,,^,l_.,^.y I M?,-'incrhshirn Mniit ;()uu;iysliire KachiirsUiru (.'aiiliiansliii'i! J I'fntli.iikriliirc RoulhWalcs.^ CairniarlhtiKliiru ■ lirc'ikiiiitkihiri! (iUiuoigaMihirc IIisTonuAi. KPocus.] Geography has been styled Olio of the eyes of history, a subservience to which study is "undoubtedly one of iU grand objects; but it would at the same time be foreign to its nature to render it a vehicle of history. The proper and peculiar subjects of geographical science are 1*0 ample, and often attended with such diHicult research, tliat it becomes equally rash and unnecessary to wander out of its ap- propriated domain. Antiquities.] The ancient monuments of a country are intimately connected with the chief epochs of its history, and particularly with the revolutions it has undergone by foreign conquest or new population. The English antiquities fall of course into six divisions. I. Those belonging to the primitive Celtic inhabitants. 2. Those of the Beb'ic colonies. 3. Those of the Romans. 4. Those of the Saxons. 5. Reliques of the Danes. (>. No^man monuments. Few of those remains, it must be confessed, throw much light upon history; but many of them being interesting and curious in themselves, they deserve the at- tention of the traveller and geographer. Those of the fust Celtic inhabitants were pro- bably, as usual among savage nations, construct- ed of wood, and of course there can be no remains. Some rude barrows and heaps of stones may per- haps belong to the Druidic tribes, but Stonehenge, the large Barrows or tumuli, &c. &c. more pro- bably belong to the IJelgic colonies. Stonehenge is situated near the capital of flie ancient Belga% and there is a similar uiouumcnl, but said to be of far greater extent, near Vaniies, a (own on the Freucli coast which was possessed by the Bclgaj. Similar monuments also occur in Denmark Sweden, and in Iceland even the date of prcc. is sometimes ascertained, these circles bei" familiarly known by the name of Ihinh-r, that is literally Doom-ring, or Circle of Jud ment, being the solemn places where courts wen held. Stonehenge is a noble and curious mom ment of early times. There appear tobethn principal circles of stones, the outer coimectei together by an uniform pavement as it were at t|j top, to which the chiefs might ascend aud siieil to the surrounding crowd. A second circle con sists of detached upright stones about live feetii height, while the highest are eighteen. \\\ this is a grand oval, originally consistiiijr ^f |j^| trilithons of two htigc stones crossed by aiiotbc at the top and inclosing smaller stones, wliid seem to have been seats, and a large flat stt commonly called the altar, but which stieins have been the throne or seat of judgment. Thei is besides a very high stone, towards the nort cast or rising stm, and near this a large flatstoi encompassed with a mound, which is prubublj the real altar on which human victims wercsuim times sacrificed. There are also two other stm at a considerable distance to the E. and W. a (he whole seems to be in the midst of a verji; tensive circle, marked by an earthen cnibiinkmei almost cftayed by the lapse of years, andallordi sufticicnt .space for all the males of the tribe nation. The largest stones are of silicious sai stone, but the altar, or rather throne, is a rule; reous sand-stone. The smaller stones are grunstcin or hornblend mixed with felspar, its first erection the appearance must have kei striking, the large stones being of pure white the smaller black. After the establishment of christianitv tl circles of judgment, which had been polluli with human sacrifices and other pagan ritcK, w abandoned, and the great courts were held what were called Moot hills, or hills of ineetini many of which still exist in the British doinii and in the Netherlands. The Roman antiquities of England have beJ repeatedly illustrated. The greatest nuinbcri Roman inscriptions, altars, &c. has been fouj in the north along the great frontier wall \vii extended from the western sea to the cstniiiyj Tync. The Roman roads were also strikiii monuments of their power. A grand trunk, K N G L A N 1). 65S IK may be colleil, to antitipotc the lunjruage of I four inland navigations, passed from the soutli IL the north, and another to tne wrst, with IbrandiM i» almost every direction that goiicrul loiivenience nnd expedition could require. Whut Lcalledthc Watling-street led from Richboroujrh in Kent, the ancient llutupia;, N. W. through london to Chester. The Ermiu-street passed tftom London to Lincohi, thence to Carlisle and Scotland, the name being supposed to be Itorrui'ted from Herman, which means warrior, ithe chief wars lay in the north. The Fosse avis supposed to have led from Bath and the eilern regions N. K. till it Joined the Ermin- ,(et, The last celebrated road was tiie Ukenild, rlkneld, supposed to have extended from near iorwich S. W. into Dorsetshire. The Saxon antiquities in England are chiefly ilices, sacred or secular; many churches remain liicli were altogether or for the most part con- Iructed in tho Saxon f^ riod, and some arc extant f the tenth or perhaps the ninth century. The milts erected by Grimbald at Oxford in the reign (Alfred are justly esteemed curious relics of lixon architecture. Mr. King has ahly illiis- itcd the remains of the Saxon castles. The Idcst seem to consist of one solitary tower, tiarc or he.tagonal: one of the rudest specimens Coningsburg Castle in Yorkshire; but as that gion was fiil'ject to the Danes till the middle of le tenth century it is probably Danish. Among e>ma)!er remains of Saxon art may be mentioned e shrines for preserving relics, which some sup- loseto present the diminutive rudiments of what is lilcd the Gothic architecture; and the illuminated nuscripts, which often ail'ord curious memo- ikof the state of manners and knowledge. The Danish power in England, though of con- lerable duratioo in the north, was in the south ief and transitory. The camps of that nation ere circular like those of the Belga« and Saxons, hile those of Roman armies are known by their uare form : and it is believed that the only itinct relics of the Danes are some castles to the rth of thft llumber and a few stones with nic inscriptions. The monuments styled Norman, rather to dis- iguish their epoch than from any information it Norman architects were employed, are re- ited to commence after the conquest, and to tend to the fourteenth century; when what is called the rirli (loilnc he^^ifan to appear, wliicli in the sixteenth century was siippliintcd by the mixed; and this in its turn yi"lde«l to the (Jietiiin. In general the Nornmn style far exceeds the Siixon in the size of the erilkes and the decoration of the parts. The churciie.s become more extensive and lofty, and though the windows retain the circular arch they are larger and more diversified; the circular doors are festooned with more free- dom and elegance, and uncouth animals begin to yielJ to wreaths of leaves and (lowers. The solitary Ii','ej) or tower of the Saxon rastle is sur- rounded witt' a double wall, inclosing courts or dwellings of large extent, defended by turrets ami double ditches, with a separate watch-tower called the Barbican. Among others the cathe- drals of Durham and >V iijehester may be men- tioned as venerable monuments of Anglo-Norman architecture, and the castles are numerous and well known. What is ca'.od the Gothic or pointed arch is generally supposed to have first appeared in the thirteenth century, and in the next it became universal in religions edifices. The windows dilluhed to great breadth and lofti- ness and divided into branching interstices, en- riched with painted glass, the clustering pillars of excessive height spreading into various fretwork on the roof constitute, with decorations of smalltr note, what is called the rich Gothic st>le, visiMe in the chapel of King's College, Cambridge, and many otlscr grand specimens in this kiiigclon:. The 8|7ire corresponds with the interior, and begin? about tiie thirteenth century to rise boldly from the anci-nt tower and diminish from the sight in a gradation of pinnacles and ornaments. UkLIGION and rXCLESIASTIC (JKOliUAPHV.] The church of England is established upon a peculiar basis, and characteristic of a moderate and judicious nation. As in the political svstenj extremes, the usual concomitants of inexperience, are carefully avoided, and despotism or anarchy from whatever source, monarch, nobles, or people, prevented as far as human wisdom can devise ; so in the church, while the papal power and other ca- tholic chains are proscribed, the other extremes tending to loose (lemocracyareeqiiallyavoided. It is the only reformed church which has retained the episcopal form in its ancient splendour; the bishops are peers of parliament and have the style and importance of nobility. Yet the creed of the church uf England is rather Calvinislic tliMu . Lut!ic»«n. I: " W m » %\ *\s\ 654 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCHIPTION OF THE WORLD. Lutheran. But the ; of physicians, surgeons, and schoolmasters, and tu the conjunction of small parishes. At present it chiefly embraces questions of births, marriages, deaths, and testaments, and any delinquencies of the clergy; to which body indeed their attention is now thidly confined, and they rarely; except '4 in parliament, interfere in secular subjects, ' 1U bishop of Sodor and Man has no place inna J liament. All the other bishops arc barons a/l peers of the realm by three different tiaiuis- i! right to the baronies attached to their sees a1 barons summoned by writ, aad as barons b3 patent, a form which accompanies their consecraJ tion. Their privileges approach the regal ; tlieJ are sole judges in their own courts, and issu3 writs in their own names, not in the royal styl] used by other courts. They can depute theid authority, which no other judge can; andtheid episcopal power of conferring orders, &c. maj be exerted in any Christian country, while lad peers are only acknowledged in the country whence they derive their dignities. To pai other more minute privileges; the bishop c London, as presiding over the capital, has thj precedence of all the others. The see of Durliaa constitutes a county palatine, with greij power and prerogatives: the authority anik patronage of the bishop are of course very ejl tensive, and even the king's judges only sit inbi( diocese by his permission. The bisho|) of Win. Chester is the third in dignity, but esteemed thi first in opulence, as the large civil list of Ditrl ham, while it adds power, diminishes revenue] These three bishops precede all the rest, vh^ take place accordii j to the seniority of consecrni t:on. To every cathedral in England belong several prebendaries as canons, and a dean, so styled, is said (Decanus) because he anciently presida over ten canons. The dean and chapter a prebendaries assist the bishop inecclesiasticail'airJ The prebendaries are so styled or pars im'bcniit a portion of land or income allotted to them; m with the dean, from a body, college, or corpd ration: and they have several privileges siipma to the common or minor canons. At the [t| formation their salaries were mostly convtrtei into money, but those of Durham prelV nod tU ancient portions of land ; which havin;^ m digiously increased in value, they are mow slyla golden prebends, being worth from right liuJ drcd pounds to twelve hundred poiiiuis aveij while the bishop out of nine thousand poiiiidsl year has to support a great and unavoidable cl penditure. j The next order is that of the arch-dtacoij amounting in uU to about sixty; their ofHaisI ENGLAND. 055 I'^mt the moveables of the churches, to reform I, llifht abuses, and to induct into benefices. I bf I'lP clergy in isjc'neral, the lowest order is llliat of deacons, whose olHce formerly was to fiiperiiiteiul the poor; the ancient donations to I (lie church beinj:; always assigned in throe liljyjgions, one to the poor, another for rcpiirs, land the last for the clergy. At prest>nt and a bishop must be thirty. The hnnt" IS a clergyman appointed to olliciate for lanother, and is so named from his having the care [of souls. If the predial or great cvHies of the |j;arish he impropri.Ued, or converted into secular jliaiifjs, the priest is termed a vicar, a name lorigirallv implying that they were the liccirit, or .. iitiiM of the rector; but if the tythes be entire, ■the priest is st\led rector*. The churchwardens Isiipcrititend the repairs and decorations of the Itliiirr'n. and the requisites for divine service, and .)l!ectthe alms of the parishioners; they are an- Iniallv elected at Easter, and have sometimes Ijidcsincn, a kind of assistants. The sacristan, Itorriiptlv called sexton, originally had the care ■of the furniture and plate of the cb.irch; and by » The clercv in general I'lijoy ' iino iicriiliiir privilege?!. iThfir ciiocii) are free from tolis ii\ fair» or iiurki-ls ; lliiy Icaiinot be comijelleil to any o lire civil or military : they an- lonlv ameiTiHl aerofiiiiif to tieir temporal estate: nor are Ithfv a«!ii""!i'(l for a rohbery .'ommitled in llie biinilrcd, or Ifar watchiiii, wanlini;, hij^liways, ice. kc. + Theecclesiasliral gcogiiipliy of Kugland wiay bo seen in i:lullo\«ing table: 'V(»ii,ite vf CunUrhurt/. I. Bishoprie of London, containing I'^sscx, MidillcaexJ inJ part of Hertford. i. Willi heiicr. — Surrey, Hampshire, hW of Wii;ht, V, (Iiicrnsey. and Aldtriicy. lati'htield and Coventry.— Stafford, Uerby, .'nd i;art bfWarwitk and Shropshire. 4. Lincoln. — l^ineoln, l^eicester, llnntingdon, Uedf'>rd, Biickiiijjham, and part of Hertford, 5. I.ly. — Cambridgeshire. 6. Salisbury. — Wilts and Uerkshirc. . • "- " 'i 7. I'lxetor — Cornwall and J)evon. ^ •' '••* ' 8. Uath and Wells.— Sonicrsutshiro. i "■ " ' 9 Chichester. — Sussex. 10. iVor-.vich. — Norfolk, SiifToIk, anil a sn)all part of pmtriilije. II. Worcester. — Woicester, and pnit of Warwick. Vol. II. No. CXIX. a still greater corruption the appellation is now applied to the grave-digger, when it ought to have been conferred on the parish-clerk. Ecclesiastical courts still retain considerable power: the convocation, consisting of the arch- bishops and bishops, with a lower house of one hundred and fifty members, only meets for the sake of form; but have not been allowed to de- liberate since the reign of Anne. Nevt in tlignity is the court of delegates, acting by a special commission under the groat seal; and to whom an app<;al lit!s from the highest metro- polifnn court. The court of arches is so stvled because it was held in the arches of the church St. Mary-le-bon, I>ondon, but now in the great hall. Doctors Commons; only doctors of the civil law are allowed to plead. The court of audience is always presided by the archbisho[y himself, who decides any doubts concerning the admission to benefices and dispensation of the banns of matrimony. The next court is that of prerogative, whiek judges of estates fallen by will, or intestate; the prerogative otfice is likewise in Doctors Commons. The court of peculiars refers to several peculiar parishes exempt from the jiirisdiction of the bishops, but here amenable: the judges are sole and without jury f, Those who diH'er in tenets or forms from the VI. Hereford. — Hereford and part of Shropsliirc.. .. 13. Rochester. — part, of Kent. 14 0.\ford. — Oxfordshire. 1.5. l\'terl,oronri,ii. — .Northampton and Rutland. "'' 10. flloncester — CMoiicestersliire. 17. Bristol The city of Bristol, part of Gloiiccstor. shire, and county of Jiorset. IS. LIundaii'. — C lamorgan, Monmouth, Brecknock, id Radnor. 19. St. David's — IVmbroke, Cardigan, and Cacrmarther. 20. St. .\'^aplri!.— 1 he greatest part of Flint, Denbigh^ and .Montgomery, and s(.< iie part of Shropshire. oi. Bangor. — The counties of Anglesey, Caernui'vonj. Merioneth, and part of Denbigh and Rlontgomery. Vruvinre of yorlc. •' i.v 2*2. Durham. — Durham and Northumberland. 23. Carlisle. — (jreat part of Cumberland and Westmore. land. 21. Chester. — Cheshire, Lancashire, Uichmondshiro (which is part of York); with part of Cumberland and U'estuiorelaud. 2j. Isle of Man. Several changes have taken place in tlic number and situn. tioiis of Ihu bishopries since Christianity was lirsf established in this country, but these are not iu our province to describoi 8 F ctttablislicd ;f I ;■ III f<\ Si- 'i .' t' ! 1 II I %!in 'H ''I 1 i I i i-iiiMJ' €56 GFOGRAPMICAT- DESCRIPTION OF THE WOirLD. establislted clinrch mavj in general, be staled Dissenters, though the term be more strictly ap- plied to the Presbyter iaas and Independents. The other principal classes of the dissidents are the Papists, Methodists, Quakers, the Anabap- tists, the Swedenborgianii, and the Unitarians; the last class denying the Trinity, and believing only in one God, is now intermingled with the two first, who have considerably relaxed the strictness of their discipline. ' The Independents assert, that each congregation has a right to regulate itself, while the Presbyterians unite churches under various divisions, provincial and national. The clerical aristocracy of the Presby- terians was obtruded with great haughtiness upon the English nation during the civil war in the last century, and was rendered the more odious, be- cause it admitted no toleration: hence the English found that they had only exchanged one yoke for another, or rather for slaver^^', as ten presbyters amounted to one bishop, ;ii>d superadded the petulance and morosene^s of individual in- quisitors. Milton and other friends of freedom soon began to satirize the whole sect, and to fly for refuge to the Independents, whose benevolence granted universal toleration. To this body Cromwell lent an iron hand ; and after annihilating the Presbyterian power in England, in a great measure subver* ?d that of Scotland. The in- tolerant spirit of the Presbyterians originated with their apostle Calvin, whose cruelty to Servetus ^as balanced by surprising talents in clerical polity: it rendered their power singularly adverse to 'letters and taste; and no man of science who had studied the literary history of this country vould wish for the revival uf such domination. But at present Calvin vould not recognise his disciples, us they have abandoned their polemical thistles, and cultivate the most elegant pro- ductions of the literary field. The Papists used chiefly to abound in Lancashire, Staffordshire, and Sussex; they had potent chiefs, and were a formidable body; but the passage from supersti- tion to contempt is so natural, thai many have fled to the opposite extreme. Those who retain their faith generally display moderation, which has been naturally increased by the late privileges extended to ibem The metliodistj arc extremely numerous and respectable. They seem to allow the propriety of the creed and goverumcut of the Church of England ; but inculcate Arnvinian doctrines rath I than those of the establishment. A philoson/ | may well envy the mild creed and i(iiivei-i| charity, or fraternal love of the Quakers; win 've must allow with a sigh that a niiion ofl qaaker.s could not exist, excupt all nations we I of the same persuasion. The Anabaptists diw J!| infant baptism, and bathe the adult discing I The Svvedenborgians derive their name from thel Baron Swedeiborg, a nobleman, who e.xchancedl his native country of Sweden for a residence ij England. After having published two iolia| volumes in Latin upon the art of exploring miuMl he was seized with a violent fever, and with creati difticulty recovered. In his disordered inrwimJ tion he seemed to maintain a frequent intercoursj with the spiritual world ; and he has publishel twenty or more vast volumes in quarto, also ini Latin,, replete with curious metapliysical ratiocii nation, interspersed with visions, which aJ sometimes narrated with high poetical spirit aiJ elegance. His system is so much adapted toth^ stron >;e8t propensities of human nature, that hid disci|des encreased with great rapiditv. lij] chiei tenets are, that tlier^ is but one person oi the Deity, namely, the Lord Jesus Christ; iha( the day of judgment is already passed, &c. &c but his must alluring tenets partakt'; of MuhaoiJ mcdanism, in representing the connubial pleasured fend the other enjoyments of a future world] which he paints as similar to this state of txi istence, but far exceeding it hi the gratification of every sense whether mentai or corporeal. GovEKNMKNT.3 It is difficult to givcabriej idea of the English constitution, which prescnid an infinite number of practic t ramifications] and is ultimately connected wi.ii the spirit m manners of the people. A mere outline must here suffice. It is a limited monarchy, counter poised by two senates, pne of hereditar)' pfersJ the other of representatives, who are or ought ta be chosen by the people. The stability and rca| power of the House of Commons depend oni general concurrence with the popular vus that he cannot enact new laws or impose |w taxes without the consent of both houses of jriiamcnt. [This grand national council claims the next iiidertition. Originally both the nobles and coninions met in one house, and it is not im- isiblethat the mere inconvenience of not finding I large enough fur our then ambulatory par- nents might have occasioned the division into I houses, unknown in any other country, and > Thr Duko ig so styled from the Latin dttx, a leailcr or lera!; tho title of Marqiitti springs from the (tt>tliic Ian. !ut by sickness, important offices, and indispensable avocations, there rarely appear above two-thirds of the number. A Speaker or president is chosen at the meeting of every new parliament, but is usually continued from one to another as the office re- quires a complete and ready knowledge of the forms, and considerable abilities. Acts of parliament are first presented in the form of hills, and, after having go^.e through various and exact forms generally observed with I the Earl and Baron arc also from the Gothic, and merely implies eminent men: (ho Viscount is LatiO) and signiQus the lieutenant of the count or ea.l. great ■{ 'ill, I f 'I- ■si' ! . '.^ iliV :1 1-:1 1, ' I; Co 8 GEOGRAPHICAL DFRCRIPTTON OF THE WORLD. great, minuteness, become law on receiving the sanction (»f llie Crown. The attention of tlie nation is chiefly bent upon the I*iirliamoi\tj wlien grand politietii questions arise coneernioij; war and peace, or afiecling the ciinstitntional liberties of the hind. On such oc- casions the iitujost powers of eh)qnence are ex- erted ; and specimens prodnced worthy of (iicece or Rome. Snch trials of elocntion mav either arise in (he stages of a bill as before described, or by the special motion of a member for some parti- cular object for address to the throne. Acijournments may freqnently happen in one session, and the. business is continued and re- sumed; but a prorogation terminates the session, and the bills not then passed must recommence their whole progress. By a modern statute the death of the king does not, as formerly, terminate the parliament; which, on the contrary, had it been previously dissolved, may, on that event, resume its functions. Such are the three grand component parts of the English constitution; but perhaps its most beneficial and popular ellects arise from the mode of administering justice, and other ramifications. For the sake of connection, however, it is proper first to consider the Privy Council and the otlier divisions of the government. The Privy Council formerly possessed great power, but at present is chiefly employed in de- liberations on affairs of sudden emergence, on peace and war, and special jjrovinces of the royal prerogative. The members are chosen by the king, and on changes of administration arc •eldom erased, though those in opposition ii.;ver attend. They are staled Right Ilononral.ie, and are sworn to observe secrecy: Mie lowest at the board pronounces his opinion first, nd the king, if present, concludes with declaring bis judg- ment. Even 'at an early period, when the monarch maintained in his own hands a great share of the administration of justice, and of the actual ex- orcise of authority, there were intervals of absence or recreation in which he delegated the chief management of business to some select person, usually an ecclesiastic whose cultivated talents (pialilied him for such an important trust. To lend more weight to this substitute, he was com- -nonl V appointed chancellor or chief administrator of civil justice, was president of the House of Peers, and supported the royal influencp in (], great assembly. But in later times, \vl,e„ h management of the House of Conunonsbecanl the chief object of the crown, the ch.inteljor the Court of Evchequer, as superintciidant * the public revenue, is the odicer gonerail considered as prime minister. The distribuli J of fifty millions a year, joined with the mi sup]iort, has recently carried his power to highest elevation. Next to him in anthorilvarl the secretaries «)f state, who arc followed In tin chancellor, the treasurer of tlie navy, tlie nri sident of the council, the paymaster of the forJ the commissioners of the treasury, and othl persons of high trust. Judicature and la»vs.] The judicature i. England is worthy of the highest applause «jH regard to precision and purity; and bribes ij frequent in other countries, being totiilly uj known, the saving of this expcnce must be caJ didly poised against other legal dishiirscnifnJ The trial by jury is another glorious \h\{\\:ti English jurisj)rudence, handed down from Saxon times, and is justly respected as tlievej safeguard of the lives, liberties, and proiierti of the nation. It would be idle and rxtraiieol here to attempt even a brief sketch of the laws! England. The most singular usages art; wliatl termed B(>toup:li Enp;U.\h, by which the \o>k-A son, or, in defect of issue, the youngest bruilij was to enjoy the heritage, as it was to be prj sumed that his elder brethren bad learnrdiha father's business, and that of gavel kind mel known except in Kent. In no country aa'\»i| so mutiJ venerated by law. Tiie forest laws relate chiefly to ofTcncescoi miUed in or near the precincts of the royal forcij and were formerly regarded as a coiisidcralj portion of the national code. But a idoI vigorous branch of English judicature nitistii be forgotten: martial law, or the Lex Cinimi Artglicana, may be clearly traced to the rtipj Henry V, who issued a cpde of milivar* sinlul published by L'pton and Grose. The -liii chiefly relate to sacrilege, prisoners, rohom] merchants, &c. «&c. and refer sohily to the i exercise of war; the pain of d< , 'i rarely oi J except in the case of any person woo cries Inii an expression seemingly cmuvalent to ' quarter." Martial law may be proclaimed Inl king, regent, or lieuieuaiU-general o-. theki «>!:■ H : ! -r ■■■II y 'n !i Uil^lJti!; V i '.:«'ll.| f^60 CKOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THF! WOni.D. .«— ill n Tlio pprcial sTipprinfpiidimcp of the navy is com- iniftcd fo the Fioard of Adniralty, coinposod of admirals of known skill, and (»f peers wi)ose im- parl iaiity generally regards merit alono in this im- portant serviee. The recent eoiidn(t of maritime war has been crowned with distinguished success. IJkvknijk.] In ancient times the rowil revenue cliiefly arose from the domains, or lands appro- priated t<» the crown, from amerciaments civil and criminal wliich pass( d to the fisc or treasury, and from customs on goods imported and ex- ported. As in war eacli soldier was obliged to maintain himself for a cciJ.ini time, the exijendi- ture was not much increased. Upon extra- ordinary emergencies, it appears that a conlribu- bution was raised by the consent of the national ronncil. Tiflater periods subsidies were granted to the amount of a fifteenth or a tenth of landed income, and a proportionable rate on moveable goods. As society advanced, taxes began to be imposed on (lie materials themselves; and from a small plant an enormous tree has risen, with a labyrinth of roots, which in the opinion of some politicians undermine the island, while others believe that thoy only produce a more lirm con- solidation. The excise forms one of the most productive branches of the revenue, amounting to between seven and eight millions. Next stand the cus- toms, which produce about half that sum. The samps and incidental taxes, as they are termed, arise to an immense sumf. The land tax has re- cently btH'u rendered perpetual, and sold to pro- ])rietors of estates and other individuals. But instead of the land-tax, now appear those on sugar, tobacco, and malt, amounting to two "ill iisr. One of the Xortliutiibriiin nioiiarrhs assembk'il a tiimuToii!) licet near Jarro, the inonastery of IJcda, in an fx(< ii.-ive havi'ii of Iho tiinc, now bccotiie a salt marsh. About till' year 8S'2 wc finJ that Alfred directed a po.vrrful floet a ,Miiist the Danish iiivadirs. The licet of Kdgar is also f . Ii'brated, bill Hie a; iKinu'Mt of I'lhelred the seeoird in the year \mi'.) e\e«eiled any "hicli Kii'^iand ever before had be. fceld, probably aniomiiiML; to live hundred of ihe small shii's uch a dedine in the naval power of I'.ng. laud, lliat Uiehard I. wasoblii;ed lo have reroiirselo foreij;n Tesseis for his erusade. In the rei;;n of John we, for the. first (Irtie, finrl eiuimeMioiated a signal victory of Ihe Knijlisii and l''lciiiint!s over the French llect of Piiiiip Aumistus, V hich was coii![)Uted a( one thousand sevei\ hniidred sliijjs. vr rather boats, i'be lOiiglish monarch in the pride of iiis millions seven hundred and fifty tliousand nor ' 1 the other supplies arise from the East Indinf' ' 'I pany, lotteries, &c. In the \f;ar 18(;j it .','1 supposed (hat the additional sums raised bvio ^l and other methods, swelled the iiauonal V" penditure to near eighty millions stLTJino, 'j'^j property tax produces an enormous sutn, but il is said to give general dissatisfaction. ' Of the permanent tuxes the greater part u p, ployed in discharging the interest of the iiaiion i debt, which after the American war amounted i' I more than two hundred and thirty-nine million while the interest exceeded nine miiiions, aJi present. May 1810, the optional debt is about nine hundred millions!!!. I To alleviate this growing burthen, a sinkinn. fund was instituted in 178G, by which a sniail part has been redeemed. The national (Itijt began in the reign of William, and grew into what are called the funds or stocks, only syng. nimous terms for the public debt. The civil list, from which are defrayed tliel salaries of oliicers of state, judges, ambassadors &c. together v^ith the expences of the rovail family, amounts to one million annuallv. ' I Political importance and relations."' Wiiiij such a prodigious command of national irvhurc the political importance and relations of Greatl Britain may be said to be diffused over the worli for wherever money influences man, there mavl her power be perceived. The union of Scotland with England delivered the latter conntrv rroml the perpetual check, exercised by politicians im- cient and modern, of exciting an eiiemy froiai behind, and thereby dividing the power of anj antagonist. That with Ireland, if preserved bv triiim))h was the first who ordered (he sahtk (n be piidjivl foreign ressfls to the national llai;. 'J'he llert of Kn^liiiil; theneeforlh continued to be always respeefable, ami ^du, victorious; but the prepondi ranee of Ihe llnglish .irmaiiuiiijl over tliosi' of I'rance only bee. one pennanieni and (liumaj little more lliin a i entiay ago, after Ihe battle of l,.i llii;i;i',j Spain had yii l.led the eoiitesl siin e th" di'slriirii.)ii of hit I ({real Aiin.ida. and Ihdlnid had heen K'eail y ndiui'd iiij her nival conllicis unders CliaiK.s the See<f national (rcii'iure, relations of (neitl ised over the world; es man, there uiavl e union of Scntlandl latter touiitry I'roml i\ by politicians ail- ing an enemy I'roial the power of an nd, if preserved bv till' SALfTV tn be p;liilliv ■flic licet of iMi^luh! s rcs[)i>i'ral)li', and inc. <( (lie IOii;;listi .irmaiiitiiij I'ltiiiuiK'iit mill ilfii ivcj llif halllf of I..I ili);ui', III" ilt'stnutioii of hit hci'ii tjri'itll^ ndiici'il in .s I 111" Sccoiul ; M) iUt no l>ritalti btill iiuini.iiib .i| (liiii; llic 15tli of, I iiiiury, U' lilindi'il -wl i:i:ii'(i'''<> r-SCJCU iJOUlllIa iig!ltaO I, ,j loiiient measures, must als(» impart ad- r ,1 pner"-v. The most important political •iiierutions are those between dreat ISritam 'fiance. If e whole having been overturned (lie ffitrantil^owcr of France. Even Russia, Islfict alliance with the IJmperor of France, ,t, by no great stretch of oriental power, liach an army into Hindostan, which, in all jilitv, would overturn our opulent pos- Liisin that quarter of, the world. f\[ixNr.Ks AND CUSTOMS.] The Engli.sh arc kau'd to exceed in the use of animal food ; but ice (tic introduction of potatoes ;uid other es- jjeat vriiclables, this position may be doubted. L potations of heavy malt liquor, deservedly L foreigners, as a singularity in English diet. lea Mir tightest Ii([uors of that sort have not apcj their remark ; for a late French traveller iscrved, that the English commoidy drink llitir meals a sort of medical ptisan, which they ;niall beor. Our ancestors prided themselves Itc varietv and richness of their ales; but the peculiar malt beverage is porter, which r!it 10 be, sohly composed of brown or high I milt, hops, liipiorice, and sugar; but it is ^'inics (IcbuM'd by other ingredients: that of [r](iii is particularly famous, and is an article nportation, being esteemed a luxury on the [lis of the Delaware and the CTanges. The ijIuxiB ciiiismnptiou of tea is another peculiar lure, the use of that plant being rare in other Vipeauconntries. The baneful cti'ects of excess Lfitiimis liquors may be traced in the ruined laiid morals of the people. iiic Miiiplicity of the English cookery strikes liriirs as much as that of tlie dre«s, which lainonglhe great is very plain, e.\cept on the 'ftoiirt gala. liic lioust's in England are peculiarly conuno- k ixat, and clean!) ; and domestic archi- \\m tecture seems here arrived at its greatest per- fection. The amusements of the theatre and of the field, and various games of sk 11 or chance, are common to most nat.()n3. The baiting of bulls and bears, is nearly discontinued: one i)f the most peculiar amusenicnts of the common people is, the ringing of long peals, with many cliaiigo^. Prior to the middle of tin; sixteenth century, the English and French were regarded as bar- barous nations by the more polished Italians. The reign and female blandishments of the court of Elizabeth seem to have had a wonderful elFect in civilizing the manners. The genuine attribute of the English is in- tegrity, vhich has carried their credit and com- merce to an extent before unknown in the history of nations. Language.] Most European languages are de- rived from the Gothic or the Latin. To the Latin origin belong ftalian, French, and Spanish; to the Gothic, tho Geriuan, Dutch, Flemish, Danish, Swedish, and Norwegian. From the situatioii of the coiuitry, and other causes, the English participates of both those grand sources; and unites in some degree the force of the Gothic with the melody of the Latin dialects. The an- cient ground, and native expression, originate from the Gothic divisions of the Belgic, Saxon, and Danish; but i)articularly from the Helgic, as will appear from comparison with the Dutch and Frisic, The languages of Latin origin have, however, .supplied a vast wealth of words, some- times necessary, sometimes only adopted because ; they are luore sonorous, though not so eujphatic j as the original (Jothic. Tin; construction of the 1 English language is peculiar, and renders the I stiuly of it very dillicult to foreigners. The , (lermau and other Gotliic dialects present declcii- sion-t ot' nomis, and other correspondencies with the I atin, while in the English all such objects are actomplished bv prelixes. Anomalies also abound, and arc too deeply rooted, ever to be j eradicated b\ grammatical rules. ! I'joui \TioN.] In a view of any counfrv. edu- cation forms one of the most important topics, as its consequences extend to the essence and weil- heiiig of the community. The education of the lower clas.ies in England had bccoiiK" extremely ucglcctcdj before the bcuc\oleut iiistituliou of the t-:i ■ , ■^ ;i ! ''i) '•:i litB il : i' nn- 111 '-'^■i:- 6C2 GF.OCn \PHTCAL DFSCHIPTION OF THF WORT.D. the Sunday ^clioolg. The tiiitlille and higher ranks of fc^n^lish spare no expcncc in thccdticiitinn of their son^, by private tutors at home, or at what are called day schools and boarding schools. Our must eminent public schools are those of St. Paul's, \Veilai)'i mentions it as u town inhabited by smiths Uutlcrs, in the time of Henry VIII.; and by Icnmiirs, now called bit makers. The extension kQdi»>P>'<*>t''"('"t of Hinningham originated in a mat(iei;rce from Mr John Ta\ lor, who intro- iurfd the maiiufactiiie of gilt buttons, and ja- lijiim'cl and enamelled works, The population |*'JI, aini>unte(l to seventy-three thousand six luiiihi'il acul seventy. Slufiield, in the most southern part of York- liirp. is cclebrulfd for its cutlery and hardware Uiitii'tui'cs. In the \oar l()15, the population ii\ amounted to two thousand one huu(lred and Iflvtwo; at present, it is equal to thirty-one |ii)i!>ui(l three hundred and I'oiirleen. Edifices ] In a brief enumeration of the prin- iiU'diliK's in England, llie royal palaces de- laiui of ciMirse the (irst atteiitijii. Windsor Bstk', situated on an eminence near the Thames, ks an appearance truly grand, and worthy of ledavs of chivalry. The view extends as far as Ifciilhedral of St. Paul's; and the whole scene jfiiniih iiH presses the circumstances so vifvidly 1V;>L. 11. No. CXX. delineated in Gray's pathetic ode on Eton College. This palace contains many noble paintings, par- ticularly the cartoons of Raphael. Hampton- Court is in a low situation, ornamented with aqueducts from the river Coliie. This palace is also replete with interesting pictures. The royal gardens at Kew are t''uly worthy of a great and scientific prince; the ground, through level, is diversified with much art; and the collection of |)lants from all tiie regions of the known world, fills the admirer of nature with delight and sur- prise. They are so disposed, that every plant finds, as it were its native soil and climate; even tho.se that grow on rocks and lava having artificial substitutes. Till! royal palace at Greenwich has been long abandoned, but; the observatory does credit to science. It is a plain ediiiee, well adapted to astronomical observations, and at present ably superintended b^ Ur. Maskelyne. Dr. HerscheU's observatory, instead of containing his telescope, is su«]iended from it in the open air, at Slough, near Windsor, where he is continually extending the bounds of astronomical knowledge. Among the houses of the nobility and gentry, or palaces, as they would be termed on the Con- tinent, the first fame, perhaps, belong to Stowe, the seat of the iMarquis of Bu(kiiigham; which, for its enchanting gardens, has been long cele- brated. The opinion of artists at the present day, with respect to the comparative elegance of ar- chitectural nicety and rural decoration, is greatly at variance; one giving the preference to Stowe, while others extol the simplicity and superb grandeur of the architecture of Tilney Mouse, on Ep|)ing Forest; but our limits will not permit an enuineration of these particulars. W lien Mr. Beckford's magnificent erections at Fonthill are comj)lcted, that fame will be far surpassed. Among public buildings must not be omitted, the noble liospitals for seamen and soldiers, at (Jreenwich and Chelsea. Many of the county halls have no inconsiderable claim to elegant ar- chitecture. Bridges] The bridges are worthy the supe- riority of the English roads; aiul a surpiising exertion in this department, is the recent con- struction of bridges in cast iron, an invention un- known to all other nations. The fust example was that of Coalbrook-dalc, in Shropshire, erected over the Severn in 1779. This 8 li bridge 1 : m 1: • ir !■ ■Ill- ■■!,! •■ €G-i GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF TITR WORLD. bridge rests on abutments of stone-work, the main rib consisting of two ])iec('.s, each Hcventy feet long, connected by a do\e-tail joint fastened >vith screws. Tiic road over the bridge is made of cliiy and iron slag, tweiit3-rour feet wide and onedee|); the s|)aM of the arch, a hundred feet six inches; height from tlie base line to (lie centre, forty feet; tlie weight of iron employed, tlirce hiuulred and seventy-eight tons ten hundred weight. Anotlier iron hridge lias sin'-e been erected in the vicinity. A stupendous iron iiridge bas been recently thrown over the harbour at Sunderland: the height of which is one hundred feet, and the span of the arch two hundred and (liirty-six; it is comjioscd of detached pieces, which, if damaged in any of the parts, may be withdrawn and replaced by others. It is su|)- portcd between two strong and elevated stone piers, and the arch is surmounted at either end by vast hoops, supporting the platform or passage of the bridge, which is thus rendered almost level. '\>'hcn viewed from beneath, the elegance, light- ness, and surprising height, excite admiration, and the carriages appear as if passing among the clouds. Inland Navigation.] This article is important to the best interests of the country, and demands particular attention. The earliest inland naviga- tion that can be authenticated, is the Sankey canal, leading from the coal-pits at St. Helens, in Lancashire, to the river Mersey, .ind constructed in order to convey coals to Liverpool. The length of the canal is twelve miles, with a fall of ninety feet The act of parliament passed in 17.^)13; the original intention was only to render the rivulet called Sank-'y IJrook, navigable: but it was found more advantageous to form a canal along its course. The surveyor was Mr. John Eyes. lint the Duke of Rridgewater isjustly venerated as the grand founder of iidand navigation: his .spirit and opulence were happily seconded by Mr. Briiidley, than whom a greater natural genius in mechanics never existed. It was in 1758 that the tirst a'-t was obtained for these great designs. The first canal extends frora Worsley mill, about seven computed mi.'es from Manchester, and reaches that town by a course of nine miles. In this short spac(> almost every difficulty occurred that can arise in similar Bchcnics; but mountains and rivers yielded to the genius of Brindley. There nrc snbtcrrancnmj passages to the coal in the n)ountaii), of „,., I mile in length, sometimes cut through the solidl rock, and occasionally arched over with iiriikJ with air-funncU to the top of the hill, souk, fl them thirty-seven yards perpen(li(ul;ir. 'riii I beautiful canal is brought over the river IrwHi I by an arch of thirty-nine feet in height, iiiuj unilcrl which barges pass without lowering their ninsi, I The Duke of Bridgewater soon afterwards cxJ tended a canal of twenty-nine miles in Imiijthl from Longford-bridge, in Lancashire, to Ueiii|)J stones, in Cheshire. ' After this deserved tribute to the fathers of inJ land navigation in England, it will be eli|iri|)|,,|g review the other canals in a geographical miiiiiierj proceeding from the north to the south. First in order is the Lancaster canal, cxlcndinJ from Kendal, in Westmoreland, by Laneasler ti ^Vest Houghton in Lancashire, a .space uf aboul seventy-four miles. The canal from Leeds to Liverpool, directed in a northerly course by Skipton, winds lliruucU an extent of a hundred and seventeen niiics; aJ from this canal a branch also extends to Ma» Chester, begun in 1771. From Halifax to Manchester is another con siderable canal, commonly called that of Rncb dale; length thirty-one miles and a half, be^uJ in 17i)4. Another canal extends from Manchester towardj Wake'ield; and another called the Peak FureJ canal, stretches from the former, south-eujt, abou| fifteen miles. Another joins the river Don, several mild above Doncaster^ to the river Calder, ncar^ValiJ field in Yorkshire. T<» pass several of smaller note, the Chesterfitlj canal extends from Chesterfield, in the couiitvi Derby, to the Trent at Stock with, a course i forty-four miles and three quarters, begun in I' In Lincolnshire, one canal extends froiii Liii coin to the Trent, and another from Hormaill to Sleaford. Grantham canal reaches frol that town to the river Trent, a cour.se of tiiitj miles. The grand design of Brindley was to join, inland navigation, the four great ports of kingdom, Bristol, London, Liverpool, and Hu Liverpool is accordingly connected with Hiill u canal from that long navigable rivci the Treij E N G L A N D. 665 jable rivci- tlie Tteil 1 proceeding north to the Mersey. The canul Lhith i"'"* these two rivers is styled the Grand (ffoiik; tt"^ ^"^ begun in lliiCy, under the direc- liion of that preat engineer; but was not com- fieiedlill 1777: the length is ninety-nine miles. Lvas iittcnded with great diiliculticsj particularly iioassing the river Dove, in Derbyshire, where li,,i,J9 an aqueduct of twenty-tvuee arches, the hioiiel through the hill of Hare-castle, in Stallbrd- jliJK is in length two thousand eight hundred m eiKl'ty y^^*^**! *"d more than seventy yards jtlow the surface of the ground, and was executed LJll, great labour and cxpence. But the utility mrrespontis with the grandeur of the design: salt Lid Cheshire, coals and pottery from Stafford- Le, and manufactures from various places, are disported on this canal. From the Grand Trunk five or six branches lilend in various directions; among which must loi be omitted that to the river Severn, near jewdleVi which connects the port of Bristol with lose of Liverpool and Hull; the length is forty- iniiles; completed in 177'i. [From the city of Chester one canal extends to ie Mersey, and another to Namptwich; another Weeds soiilh to Shrewsbury, uniting the Mer- t» and the Severn; with north-west and south- [stbrantiies of considerable length. From C»)ventry, in the centre of the kingdom, [mals extend to I he Grand Trunk; to Ashhy-de- l-Zoudi, and to the Braunstou^ or Grand lundioii canal. Iwhal is called the Staffordshire canal, extends Icinlhc Grand Trunk to the river Severn; and nut l)v the King-Ion canal, which roaches to liiiji;toii, ill Herefordshire, so as almost to join K river Trent and Wye. It may be here ob- jfTcd, that in this description the grand courses [navigation are attended to, rather than the linute names and divisions of the canals. ISeveral inland navigations pass by Birmingham. jbe Union canal completes a course of forty- Iree miles and three quarters, from Leicester to lorthampton, whence the river Nen is navigable llheseit. lAiiolher canal extends from Gloucofter to lerct'ord ; nnd the south of Wales presents several ■vi^ratio'is ul' considerable length, p^Uicularly Jil from iin'von, in Brecknockshire, to Nevv- jtt, in Manmojthshire. Tlie Scveiii ij not only joined with the Trent and the Humber, by various coursei of naviga- tion, but is united with the Thames, by a canal extending by Siroud to Lechlade, a course of near forty miles. Other canals branch out from the Thames in various directions: that of (Jx ford extends to the Grand Trunk, or rather joins the Coventry canalj after a course of ninety-two miles. The Braunston, or Grand Junction canal, reaches from Brentford, on the Thames, and joins the Oxford canal at Braunston, in North- amptonshire, after a course uf ninety miles. It is styled the Grand Junction, because it may be said to unite the numerous courses that pervade the central counties, with the capital of the king- dom. On the south of the Thames, a canal proceeds from Reading to Bath; and another from Wey- hridge to Basingstoke; and a third from Wey- bridge to Godalmin. A small canal or two have been executed in Devonshire. Ihe Andover canal, in Hampshire, extends from Andover to Southampton water. Sussex presents two canals, that of Arundel, and that of Lewes. Manufactures and Commehce.] The manu- factures and commerce of England, form so ex- tensive a theme, that only a brief account of thera can be here attempted. The earliest staple com- modity of England was tin, a metal rarely found in other countries. The Phoenicians first intro- duced it into commerce, at least five or six hun- dred years before the Christian a^ra ; and their extensive trade soon diffused it among the Oriental nations. The Romans, upon their conquest of these regions, «lid not neglect this source of wealth ; but as Cornwall was not conquered by the Anglo-Saxons, till the reign of Athelstan, we know not whether the Cornu-Britons carried on any considerable traffic in this commodity, though it be probable that it was at least exchanged for the wines of France. Yet even in the reign of John, the product was so inconsiderable, that the mines were farmed to Jews for one hundred marks; but in that of Henry III., they began again to yield a large profit, which has gradually increased. Cornwall, like most countries that abound with minerals, presents an external aspect of desolation: a series of barren hills and bleak heaths pervades its whole length, and the violent winds from the sea check the vegetation of trees 1 and ,.- n ,!•!! M^ I," '; l\ .,, .,: IMAGE EVALUATrON TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I 1^ III 2.2 1^ IIIIIIO US u US ii4 ||'-25 III 1.4 ]i.6 ^ 6" ► HioiDgraptdc Sciences Corporation «- 2J WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 % \\ \ 666 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLF/. and shrubs. The tin mines are numerous, and of various descriptions. This metal is either found in the mass in what are called lucks and jlools; or in grains, or bunchesj in the rocks; or detached in separate stones, called shades or strings; or in a course of such stones called the heuherjl or living string; or in the pulverized shape of sand. After having been pounded in a mill, it is melted into blocks of three hundred and twenty pounds weight. In the ore it is styled bfack tin; and is sometimes, though very rarely, found in a metallic state*. Wool had been regarded as a grand staple of England, as early as the twelfth century, but was chiefly exported in a crude state till Edward III. encouraged settlements of Flemish manufacturers. Wool soon became the standard of private property, and the prime article of commerce. Taxes and foreign subsidies were estimated by sacks of this commodityf . Great quantities of raw wool continued to be exported to the Nether- lands and Hanse Towns; but iii the reign of Elizabeth it began to be chiefly manufactured at borne, and the exportation of woollen cloths was then valued at a million and a half annually. The exportation of raw wool was at length prohibited; and the woollen fabrics preserve great importance, though they no longer attract such particular re- gard, amidst the exuberance of English manu- factures. Id recent times the manufactures of iron and copper, native minerals, have become great sources of national wealth ; nor must the new and extensive exportation of elegant earthen-ware be forgotten. The cotton manufacture is difiused far and wide, forming a grand source of industry and prosperity. That of linen, except of sail cloth, is not much cultivated in England. The manufactures of glass and tine steel, clocks, watches, &c. are deservedly eminent and extensive. The English manufactures have been recently estimated at the annual value of sixty-three mil- lions six hundred thousand pounds, and supposed to employ one million five hundred and eighty- five thousand persons. Of these, the woollen manufacture is supposed to yield in round sums, fifteen millions, the leather ten millions, the iron, tin, and lead ten millions, the cotton nine milliuus. * Borlaso's Cornwall. f Campbell's Pulitical Surrey, toI. ii. p. I5T, 153. A Tfie other chief manufactures, which yield fro] oue to four millions may be thus arranged cording to their consequence; steel, plating, - copper and brass, silk, potteries, linen and Qal hemp, glass, paper. The commerce of England is, at the presei period, enormous, and may be said to extendi every region of the globe. The trade with tU West Indies is one of the. most important, al that with the Eust Indies alone, would had astonished any of the celebrated trading cities i antiquity. From the United States of North America, al chiefly imported tobacco, rice, indigo, timbej hemp, flax, irf^n, pitch, tar, and lumber: frol the West Indies, sugar, rum, cotton, coffJ ginger, pepper, guiacum, sarsaparilla, inanciid mahogany, gums, &c. From Africa, gold duJ ivory, gums, &c. PVom the East Indies aij China, tea, rice, spices, drugs, colours, silij cotton, Balt-petre, shawls, and other productso the loom. From our remaining seltlementi i North America are imported furs, timber, poi ash, iron; and fr«m the various states of EuiopJ numerous articles of utility and luxury. { The annual income of Great Britain wasoti mated in 1799 by Mr. Pitt at a hundred and tw| millions; and including the money, of which t estimate is far from certain, the whole capital ( Great Britain may perhaps be calculated at oil thousand two hundrci millions. In the year 17D7, the amount of the exporii according to Custom-house accounts, wastweDt* eight millions nine hundred and seventeen thoii sand pounds, and of the imports, twenty on millions thirteen thousand pounds, yielding, i is supposed, clear profits on foreign trade, totbj amount of at least ten millions. The number ( merchant vessels amounts probably tu sixtei thousand ; and it is calculated that one hundrel and forty thousand men and boys are employed i| the navigation. Climate and Seasons.] The climate of Gred Britain in perhaps more variable than thatofanj other country on the globe, as the vapours of lb| Atlantic Ocean are opposed to the drying windj Tiom the Eastern Continent. The western coasl^ in particular, are subject to frequent rains: aw work opulent in natcrialg, but of lucst todiuua and uncoiill execution. tIJ ENGLAND. 661 ■uni, cotton, coffd most tedious and uncoull Eastern part of iL'COtland is of a clearer and [llier temperature than that of England. The [liuinidity of the climate, indeed, clothes the de- licious vales and meadows with a verdure un- Unovnto any other region: out is injurious to [tlie health of the inhabitants, by causing colds liod catarrhsj the frequent sources of more deadly I disorders. Inconsequence of the mutability of the climate, lllie geasons themselves are of uncertain tenuur, mi the year might more properly be divided into jtight months of winter, and four of summer, Ithtn into any theoretic arrangement, originating Ijn the southern latitudes. What is called the IgpriDg dawns in April, commonly, indeed, a mild [iDonth; but the eastern winds, prevalent in May, |(eein commissioned to ruin the eftbrts of reviving Inture, and destroy the promise of the year. Ijiioe, July, August, and September, are usually Iwaria summer months; but a night of frost is not Itinkoovin, even 'n August, and sometimes a cold lEast wind will blow for three days together; nor lof late years, are summers unknown of almost IconstaDt rain''. The winter may be said to com- jiiKnce with the beginning of October, at which ItiiDe domestic tires become necessary; but there lisieldom any severe frost till Christmas, and iJanuary is the most stern month in the year. lYet, as our summers often produce specimens of Ivinter, so now and then gleams of warm sun- liliioe illuminate the darker months. March is Igenerally the mos', unsettled month of the year, litterspersed with dry frost, cold rains^ and strong |«iuds, with storms of hail and sleet. Face of the Country.] From the mouth of Ithe Tweed to Bambnrough, extends a sandy shore ; liDd the most remarkable object is Lindesfarn, or jHoly Island, divided from Northumberland by a bcl, which is dry at low wati^r, but out of which hhe flowing tide oo7.?8 8uddenly> to the terror and frilofthe unwary traveller. From Bamborough Castle, to Flamborough Head, are mostly low klifi'i, of lime-stone, and other materials; and at piinderland, of a peculiar stone used in building, ad which seems the work of marine insects. brborough stands on a vast rock, projecting olo the wav^s; but Flamborough Head is a far noremagniiicent object, being formed of lime- * The Slimmer of I8(X) was remarkable for drynnss anil Innntli, scarcely any rain falling from tho Gtli of June to Vol. II. No. CXX. stone, of a snowy whiteness and stupendous height, visible far off at sea. Hence to ihe Humber are commonly clay cliffs ; and near Spurnhead, amber is sometimes founC. The extensive coast of Lincolnshire is flat, and« according to Mr. Pennant's opinion, has been gained from the sea ; though, in some parts, the sea has in its turn invaded the land, and the re- mains of a forest are visible under the waves. The county of Lincoln, and part of six others, are the low countries of Britain ; and the coast is distinguishable by churches, not by hills. The shores of Norfolk and Suffolk present sometimes loamy or clajey precipices, sometimes hillocks of sand, and sometimes low and flat spaces. Hun- stanton-cliff rises to the height of about eighty feet, composed of chalk and friable stone, resting on a base of what is called iron-coloured pudding stone, projecting into the sea. The coast of Esse.T is generally low; but, to the south of the Thames, arise continued cliffs of chalk, with layers of flint, resembling masonry. The north Foreland is a lofty, chalky promontory; and the cliffs of Dover are known to every reader of Shakespeare. It is to be regretted that Mr. Pennant did not extend his animated description to th^southern and western coasts: cliffs of chalk and clay are interspersed with flat gravel, till the island of Portland presents its bold rocky front. The western shores abound with granite, slate rocks, and lime-stone. Soil ani> agriculture.] The soil and agri- culture of England are topics which have recently been illustrated in such a multiplicity of merito- rious works, that the subject labours under the abundance of the materials. A few very general remarks must here suffice. The soil is greatly diversified, but in general fertile; and in no coun- try is agriculture more thoroughly understood, or pursued in a grander style, except, perhaps, ' in Flanders and Lombardy. The intermixture of the green crops with those of grain, the u«e of Turnips, the irrigation of meadows, the regular substitution of crops appropriated to the state of the land, the art of draining conducted on scien- tiflc principles, may be mentioned among the re- cent advances of knoT.'ledge. Amidst such topics the 20th of August, when a (hunder.«torm succeeded. SI 4f n I n ii^i; «68 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THK WOULD. of just exultation, it is mortit'^'ing to reflect upon two circumstances, the deficiency of a proper supply of grain, and the vast extent of waste lands in this industrious country. The culti- vated acres in England and Wales are computed at upwards of thirty-uine millions, while those uncultivated are seven million eight hundred and eighty-eight thousand seven hundred and seventy- seven. Of these it is supposed that not above half a milli6n is wholly unimprovable, and per- haps a million is only (it for plantations, while of the remainder one quarter is fit for tillage, and three-fourths for meadow and upland pasture. Horticulture, or i\\c art of gardening, is also pursued in England with great assiduity and suc- cess. The large supply of the capital in ve- getables and fruits, and the high prices given for early produce, occasion such a spirit of cultiva- tion, Ihateiich acre thus employed is supposed to yield about one hundred and twenty pounds annually, the yearly consumption in the metro- polis being computed at more than one million. Of ornamental gardens, laid out with a just at- tention to the beauties of nature, and free from the uncouth affectations of art, England is de- fiervcdly regarded as the parent country. Rivers.] England is intersected by four im- portant rivers; the Severn, the Thames, the Ilumber, and the Mersey. The Severn rises ^rom the mountain Plinlimnion, and, after an easterly course to Shrewsbury, bends its progress almost south to Gloucester, whence it flows south-west into the Bristol Channel, a progress of about one hundred and fifty miles, navigable as far as Welch Pool. . Itschief tributary streams are (he northern and southern Avons, theTeme, and the Wye. TheThames originates in CotswoldHill8,G!ou- cestershire; and maintains a south-easterly di- rection, to its egress into the German Ocean, after receiving (he Cherwel, the Tame, the Kennett, another Wye, the Mole, and the Lee. The Mcd- way flows into (he estuary of the Thames, as the W^e into that of the Severn. The course is computed at one hundred and forty miles, na- vigable to Cricklade. The Ilumber is a name almost confined to a large estuary, which receives many considerable rivers that fertilize the central parts of England. Of these (he Trent is the most important, whici rises at New Pool, in Staffordshire^ aud, pro- ceeding north-east, enters the Huinbcr, after direct course of about one hundred miles, beinii navigable to Burton in Staffordshire. The othJ principal rivers that issue into the Himiber ard the Don, a navigable stream which runs by DoiJ caster; the Aire, navigable to Leeds; and tha Caldcr, navigable to Halifax ; the Warf, tmvil gable toTadcastcr; and the Ouse, which riij by York, and forms another grand branch ol'ilid Humber, navigable to Rippon: nor must tha Derwent be omitted, which is navigable to NeJ Malton; nor, though last and least, the Hull I The Humber may be regarded as the stem of venerable oak, which, as usual with thiit trofl spreads its chief branches in a horizontiti direct tion. 1 Though the Mersey presents a grand eshurvj its course is not of great extent. It arises in (J West Riding of Yorkshire, and runs to tlil south-west ; but the estuary bends towards tliel north. The direct course is not above fii'iy miles; and is navigable to Stockport: as tliel Ireweil to near Manchester, and the Wrevertol near Northwich, and the mines of rock-salt, In briefly describing the other navigable riverd of this kingdom, it may be proper to rcturntJ the Severn, and, proceeding south-west, pursua the outline of the coast. The Avon is navigablq to Bath, the Parret to Illchestcr, the TonetJ Taunton, the Taw to Barnstaple, and anutlien branch to Biddeford: the Camil of Cornwall, tJ Wedbric'<5e, while the Plym, Dart, and Ex, ca^ also be pcirvaded to a considerable height. An other Avon is navigable to near Salisbury, thJ Itchyn to Winchester, the Ann to Arundel, tti^ Ouse to Lewes: the Rother, which forms tb haven of Rye, is yet navigable, though tallfiJ in fame. The Stour admits boats even to Can'l terbury; but the Medway presents p. navi;;abla stream as far as Tunbridge.. On the north n| the Thames, the Lee is navigable to Ilishop'i Stortford and Hertford : (he Crouch convcjd boats fromthe sea to Hull Bridge in Essex; tiiej Blackwater to Chelmsford, and another brancli to Colchester. The Stour is navigable to Sud^ •)nry ; the Orwell to Stow, the Deben to >VoodJ bridge; the Yare andWavcney present acccsj tof Foulsham, Norwich, and Bung&y. Next is tha estuary called the Wash, which receives m Ouse, the Nen, the Wclland, the Withain; al| streams of cousiderablc navigation. 4 OJ ENGLAND. l> « i»«| m,t^ €39 Cn tlie north of the Humter, the Tees admits IttsseU to Stockton; the T_yne to Newcastle. On (he west, tlie Eden is navigable to Carlisle; the Lun or Loyiie to Lancaster and Hornby; the Dee to Chester; the Conway to within two miles LfLlanrwst; the Tivey to Llanbedr. Miltord I Haven presents branches navigable to Haverford- „esl, and to near Wiston : and lastly, the Wye linav be pursued as far as Hay in Brecknockshire. Mountains.] The mountain.? seldom appear liino'le. but'are either disposed in lines or ridges^ Lafed chains. When they can be arranged under Itbe first form or denomination^ as the Alps, for lejample, or the Pyrenees, they afford great Itlearaess to geographical limits and descriptions. Ill is not. however, to be conceived, that a chain ■of mountains forms one series, as delineated in '! maps, for the leading summits diverge on Hoiiisid^s into extensive ribs, gradually melting I the champaign country. And the clusters. If accurately surveyed, will generally be found present central elevations, whence smaller liranclies irradiate. The mountains of Cheviot pav be said to form a regular ridge, running froin the south-west, where they join those of Balloway to the north-cast. But there is a Knlral ridge which pervades England from north ) south, beginning at Geltsdale forest, fourteen ^il(s S. E. of Carlisle, and passing on the west Durham and Yorkshire," where it contains lineti of coal and lead. The chief elevntions, ^(h as Kclton-fell, Stanraorc, Widehill-fcll, l^ildboar-fell, Bow-fell, Home-fell, Btinhill, 4&c. ic. arise on the western limits of Yorkshire, [luniberland and Westmoreland present many itached mountains, Skiddaw, &c. which can jardly be reduced to any distinct arranfjrment ; lit thofe of Craven, in the West Hiding of Iforkshire, as Wharnsidc, Ingleborongh, and leimigpiit; and Pendle, on the east of Lan- ^ster, belong to the Central Chain which pro- ds south, through Derbyshire, still abound- b with niin«>rals and natural curiosities; but Ve it seems to terminate, spreading a little into liesliire. A central chain, of smaller tlevation, lav be traced, in a zigzag line, to near Salis- prv, with two diverging and irregular branches itheeiisst, one towards Norfolk, another into lent, while a third runs south-west into Corn- el, To the tirst be'ong the hillg of Gogmagog, Cambridgeshire, &c. to the second the hills of Hampshire, Surrey, and Kent. Another up- land tract of considerable elevation, called the Chiltern Hills, extends from Tring in Hertford- shire, to Henley in Oxfordsiiire. Malvern hills, in Worcestershire, deviate from the central ridge, while those of CotswoKI, in Gloucestershire, may be regarded as a continuation of it. The hills of Mcndip, Poldeu, Sodgeinoor, Black- down, in Somersetshire; the Tors and Wilds of Dartmoor, in Devon; and the hills and upland downs of Cornwall, extend this chuin to the Land's End : and after passing this last rocky province, it expires in the islands of Scilly. Wales is a country abundant in mountains, especially the northern provinces; but their orology remains indeterminate, and it w );ild re- quire the actual survey of an experienced en- gineer to reduce them to chains or groupes. To begin with the north, Snowdon commands the first attention, a mountain of eminent height and fame. The top is cilled Y Widdsa, or the conspicuous, forming almost a point, and pre- senting a view of the county of Chester, the mountains of Yorkslure, part of Scotland and Ireland, and the Isles of Man and Anglesey. The .stone that composes it is petrosilex and argillaceous schistus, large coarse crystals are often found in the fissures, and very frequently cubic pyritiP, the usual attendants on Alpine tracts. . From Snowdon, a lino of mountains ex- tends by the sea to Pliulimmon, a boundary of North Wales, whence issue the noble rivcrg Severn and Wye. Of these rivers, Urrou Seth, Caer Idris, and Moel Vadiau, are the most me- morable. The hills on the east of North Wales are far from attaining s;ich considerable eleva- tion, and gradually decline to the hills of Shrop- shire, of which the Wrekiu is one of the most noted. A chain proceeds due south to near*Cardilf in South Wales; it is of far inferior height, and a small branch diverges to the west, consisting of Cwm Cothy, M\nydd, Carreg, Brilley, and Cwm Kerrun Hills. On th^ east of South Wales are the hills of Herefordshiri the Black Moun- tain, Cusop Hill, Hargest, Stocklcy Hill, &c. Forests.] Many of the forests were, even in the Anglo-Saxon times, esteemed royal de- mesnes ; but the Norman monarchs were so much addicted to the chace, that upwards of sixty forests at one time appertained to the crowa; it I'l* ■ A ■V' M *fi ill ^iV:.] K' i:| r C70 tSEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. crown; of which the chief now remaining are the forests of Dean, in Gloucestershire; Sher- wood, in Nottinghamshire; Windsor, in Berk- shire; and the New Forest, in Hampshire. The royal forests constituting so large a part of the kingdom, subject to peculiar regulations, many grievances arose, till the Barons exacted from Henry IH. the forest charter; in which several despotic laws were revoked, and more equity extended to the neighbouring proprietors and tenants. Zoology.] Of animals, Mr. Pennant enu- merates twenty genera, from the horse down to the seal and bat. The bird extends to forty- eight, the reptiles to four, and the fish to forty genera, besides the crustaceous and shell fish. That noble and useful animal, the Horse, is found in England of many mingled breeds, while most other kingdoms produce only one kind. Our race-horses descend from Arabian stallions, and the genealogy faintly extends to our hun- ters. The great strength and size of the English draught-horses are derived from those of Ger- many, Flanders, and Holstein ; and other breeds have been so intermingled, that native horses may be found adapted to etery purpose of pomp, pleasure, or utility. Those of Yorkshire are par- ticularly celebrated for their spirit and beauty; and the grooms of that county are equally noted for their skill in the management of this va- luable animal. The indigenous horned cattle are now only known to exist in Neidwood forest, in Stafford- shire; and at Chillingham castle, in Northum- berland. They are long-legged and wild like deer, of a pure white colour, with black muz- zles, cars, and tails, and a stripe of the same hue along the back. The domesticated breeds of our cattle are almost as various as those of our horses; those of Wales and Cornwall are small, while the Lincolnshire kind derive their great size from those of Holstein. In the North of England we find kylics, so called from the district of Kyle, in Scotland; in the South ve find the elegant breed of Guernsey, generally of a ligl't brown colour and small size, but re- markable for the richness of their milk. Of late years Mr. Bakewell, and others, have brought the breeding of cattle and sheep to a regular Bvtem. " The number and value of sheep in England \ may be judged from the ancient staple coramoJ dity of wool. Of this most useful animal wJ veral breeds appear, generally denominated fron their particular counties or districts; those ol Herefordshire, Devonshire, and Cotswold downd arc noted for fine fieeces, while the LincohisliiJ and Warwickshire kind are remarkable for thi quantity. The Teesdale breed of the county J Durham, though lately neglected, continue J deserve their fume. The wool is beautiful, bui the length of their legs lessens their value inihd eyes of trie butcher. The mutton of Wales o3 the contrary, is esteemed, while the wool coarse, jyet employed in many useful and salul tary manufactures. The most laudable e\er| tions have lately been made by the Board Agriculture, and by individuals, for tbe in provement of the English fleece. The goat, an inhabitant of the rocb, hai even in Wales, for the most part, yielded to ihi more useful sheep; that county being, likeScoti land, more adapted to the woollen manufaclutq The breeds of swine are various and useful, England also abounds in breeds of dogs, son of which were celebrated even in Roman (iine< nor have their modern descendants, the mast^ and bull-dog, degenerated from the spirit ani courage of their ancestors. Of our savage animals the most fierce anddJ structive is the wild cat, which is three or foJ times as large as the domestic, with a flat broJ face, colour yellowish white, mixed with m grey, io streaks running from a black listonllj back; hip< alu;ays black, tail alternate l^ars i black and white; only found in the most mouij tainous and woody parts. The wolf has beej long extinct, but the fox abounds. The chief of our birds of prey are, tlwtgnldtj eagle, sometimes found on Snowdon; theblia eagle has appeared in Derbyshire ; the pcre^riij falcon breeds in Wales ; and many kinds hawks in England. An enumeration of tij other birds would be superfluous. The nigb ingale, one of the most celebrated, is not fuiii in North Wales, nor any where in the north, ej cept about Doncaster, where it abounds; does it travel so far west as Devonshire and C'orj wall. Our poultry seem to originate fruni Ait our peacocks are from India; our pheasants frol Colchis ; the guinea fowl are from Africa. Oj smallest bird ia the golden-crested wren, wb spoi ENGLAND. ittU on the highest pine trees ; and our largest bustard, some of which weigh twenty-five inds, and are found in the open countries of ijouth and east. The roost useful of our Liter fowl is the mallard, or wild duck, which [chieflv caught in the fens of Lincolnshire; the loberg sent to the capital almost exceed cre- Tbe reptiles are frogs, toads, several kinds of irds: of our serpents, the viper alone is ve- nous .' other kinds are, the snake, sometimes four feet in leno^ h ; and the blind worm, jom exceeding eleven inches. Of fish, the V/haie but seldom appears near Eoelish coasts ; the porpoise, and others of iioie genus, are not uncommon. The basking i^gnpears off the shores of Wales. Numerous ; our edible sea fish. Some of the most ce- nted are the turbot, doree, soal, cod, plaice, lit, and mullet. The consumption of her- and mackarel extends to most parts of the 001 ; but pilchards are confined to the ah coasts. Our chief river fish are the ion and the trout, which are brought from northern parts in prodigious numbers, ge- illy packed in ice. It is srid that not less thirty thousand salmon r.re brought from river, the Tweed, to Lo jdon, in the course I season. The lamprey is rhiefly found in Severn, the charr in the lakes of West- apd. he lobster is found on most of the rocky I, particularly ofl^ Scarborough ; and the ]i oj'sters maintain their Roman reputa- The green, from Colchester in Essex, and juicy white, from Milton in Kent, have the r reputation. iNERALOoY.*] The tin mines in Cornwall been already mentioned; and they are not venerable from their antiquity, but arc, it pposed, the richest of the kind in the world. It kind of silver termed by mineralogists horn is also found in that district; but the pro- i secrecy observed in working it forbids any itigation of the amount. The Huel rock ( of what is called bcli-metal ore; and uf ttrim. lornwall also produces copper at Redruth, one, and the Land's End. The same metal tund in Yorkshire and Staffordshire; but no in such abundance as in the Parrys mcun- foi, U. No. CXX. tain, in the north-west of Anglesea. Instead of descending in veins through various rocky strata, the usual form of metallic ores, it here forms a prodigious heap, and is worked in the manner of a quarry. The mountain is almost bare af shrubs or grass, and is covered with aluminous slate, under which, in grey chert, is the ore, being chiefly the yellow sulphuref, of very va- riable richness. This valuable mine was disco- , vered about thirty-five years ago. Lead is found in the Mendip bills, Somerset- shire; which also produce calamine and man- ganese. The lead mines in Derbyshire are well known, not only for that metal, but for this beautiful veins of iluor which accompany it, and which is manufactured into several orna- mental articles. In general, the northern central ridge of mountains abounds with lead ore. The lead mines of Alston, on the eastern verge of Cumberland, employ about one thousand one hundred men. No metal is so widely diffused through the globe as iron; and England not only contains excellent mines, but excels all nations in the va- I iety of fabrication. The most remarkable mines of iron are those of Coalbrook-dale, Shropshire, Dean-forest in Gloucestershire, with some in the north of England, particularly near Ulverston, in Lancashire. Among the minor metals, zinc, in the form of lapis calaminaris, and blende, is found in Der- byshire, Denbighshire, Cornwall, and other re- gions. Nickel and arsenic sometimes appear in Cornwall; and recently, what is called raena- chanite. But one of the most important of this kind is plumbago, or black lead, which is found ^n the ridge of Borrodale, near Keswic, in Cum- berland ; the mine is only opened at certain in- tervals of time. Gold has been discovered in various quarters of England, but the metal has never recompensed the labour and expence. The real gold mines of England are those of coal, found in the central, northern, and western parts, but par- ticularly ill the northern, around Newcastle. The coals of Whitehaven and Wigan are more pure ; and the cannel and peacock coals of Lan- cashire are so beautiful, that they are suspected by some to have constituted the gagates, or jet, which the ancients ascribed to Britain. A sin- gular species of coal is found in Bovey heath, S K Devonshire, «7« GEOGBAPHICAL DESCRIPTION^ OF THE WORLD. Devomhire, resembling wood impregnated with bituminous matter. Turf, or peat, is common, even in Hampshire, and other southern counties. The mines of rock salt, in Cheshire, appear to bave been known to the Romans. Those of Northwich are the most remarkable: at Nauipt- wich and Middlcwich are only salt springs: and others occur at Droitvvich, in Worcestershire, and Weston, in Staffordshire. The immense mines on the south side of Northwich were dis- covered about the beginning of this century. The quarries, with their pillars and crystal roof, extending over many acres, present a beautiful spectacle; the stratum of salt lies under a bed of whitish clay, at the depth of about forty yards. The first stratum is about twenty yards thick, so solid as to be blasted with gunpowder; this salt resembles brown sugarcandy. Next is a bed of hard stone, under which is a second stratum of salt, about six yards thick; in some parts brown, in others as clear as crystal. The Witton pit is circular, one hundred and eight yards in diameter, the roof supported by twenty- five pillars, each containing two hundred and ninety-four solid yards of rock salt; the whole covering near two acres of land. The annual produce of rock salt at Northwich has been estimated at sixty-five thousand tons; of which about two-thirds used to be exported to Flanders and the Baltic. Marbles, and free-stone, or calcareous sand- stone, of various colours and textures, also oc- cur; the most celebrated of the latter are those of Portland, Purbeck, &c. Fine alabaster ap- pears in Derbyshire; fullers-earth in Berkshire, and some other counties. Mineral Waters.] The mineral waters of Bath have been celebrated since the Roman times. Next to that place may be mentioned the hot-wells of Bristol, those of Tunbridge in Kent, and of Buxton and Scarborough in the ' North, Those of Cheltenham in Gloucester- shire have been esteemed beneficial in scorbutic cases; but to enumerate the springs of inferior note would be infinite, as chalybeat wells, at least, must occur in almost every county, and new waters are daily starting into celebrity. Natural Curiosities ] Among the natural curiosities, those of Derbyshire iiave always been esteemed the most memorable. Hobbes and •thers have long since celebrated the wouders of 3 the Peak, a mountain r.ot equal in heieWi those of Wales, or the more northern pari England, but perforated with such verti chasms, and such surprising caverns, as I J deservedly excited admiration. ' Other remarkable caverns are found in northern ridge of English mountains. I,, m vale of Kingsdalc, on the western extremity j Yorkshire, is Yordas Cave, which presseiiul subterraneous cascade. But the most noted f Wcthercot Cave, not far from " Ingleton is surrounded with trees and shrubs, jsinfiJ like a lozenge, divided by an aicli of U stone ; passing under which you behold a iJ cascade, falling from a height of more iM twenty yards; the length of this cave m m sixty yards, the breadth thirty. [ The lakes of Cumberland form another gJ scene of attraction: but it would be idle tul tempt to depict, in a few words, beauties nlj have been described by so many authors, particularly by the glowing pencil of a g\ Suffice it to observe, that the three most cj bratcd lakes are those of Coniston, Windern and Derwent. The beauties of the first ^ been compared to the delicate touches of Claij the noble scenes of the second, to tlinsel Poussin ; while Derwent has much of tliei lime mildness of Salvator Rosa: but most I vellers esteem Ulswater the most truly sublii The mountainous regions of Wales mayi be supposed to present many natural curiosifl and the Parrys mine in Anglesea is ia itsJ .surprising object. The cataracts in Cumberl ire rivalled by a remarkable fall of the TeesF ♦he west of the county of Durham, ovcrwl is a bridge suspended by chains, seldom pi but by the adventurous miners; nor mmt| garth force, in Yorkshire, be passed insilei The submarine relics of a forest, ontliei of Lincolnshire, may be deservedly classed aJ the most remarkable natural curiositie!<. OJ N.W. side of the Mendip hills is aconsideJ cavern, at the bottom of a deep ravine, neaj little village of Bcrrington, or Burringtoii, are a number of human bones, gradually iJ porating with the lime-stone rock; there IT a confinuul dripping from the roof and which deposits a stalactitic sediment on the I Several nodules contain perfect human sl| At the farther end, where the height is ENGLAND. 673 ifteenfeet, lliere is a large conic stalactite, which gearly meets a pillar rising from the floor. This (ave was only discovered about six years ago; iiid as the matter increaHes so fast, it is con- I jediired that it would soon have been closed up. I jicpce it is probable that these bones are of no femole antiquity, and may perhaps be the re- mains of some persons who hud here taken shelter from the cruelty of Jeffries, after the in- I jgrrcction of Monmouth. , , ENGLISH ISLES. In the southern, or English channel, first ap- I -cars the Isle of VVight, of an oval form, about Ittrcnty miles in length, and twelve in breadth. This isle is fertile and beautiful, and decorated I with many picturesque villas; the principal haven is that of Newport. The chief mineral pro- ducts are pipe clay, and tine white sand, for the fabrication of pure glass; and at Alum Buy, on the north side of the Needles, are found con- siderable quantities of native alum. One of the Btost remarkable buildings isCarisbrook castle, wiiere Charles L was imprisoned. The lofty hrhite rocks styled the Needles, seem to have [been disjoined from the western extremity of the by the violence of the waves. There were [formerly three; but about the year 1782, the [tallest, which rose about one hundred aud twenty [ftet above the low-water mark, was overthrown, [and totally disappeared. At the distance of about seventy miles from [Wight, to the S. W. arises the little isle of Al- jderoey, off the Cape la Hogue ; which is af- Iterwards followed by the more important isles [of Guernsey and Jersey; Sark being a small [isle iaterposed between the two latter. Gucrn- iiev, the largest of these isles, is twelve miles lou^, nine broad, and about thirty-six in circuit. litis a verdant isle, though the soil bo hilly, and {barren of wood. The only town is that of Port ISt, Pierre. Jersey is about twelve miles in |lengt!i, and six in bro;idth, a well watered and |ferlile island, prouticing excellent butter and boiiey. The winters are milder, but more miy, than those of England. The northern kidcof the island is high, but the southern sub- liides into pleasant vtiles, covered with orchards. riie remarkable places are the two towns of jSl, llelicr and St. Aiibin, both standing on a bay, openin^ii; to the south; aud the castle of Mont Orgiieil. The inhabitants of Jersey are computed at twenty thousand, of whom three thousand are capable of bearing arms. In Ja- nuary 1781, St. Flelier was surprised by eight hundred French, under Rullicourt, who was killed, while Major Picrson fell on the side of the English. Aldcrney is a small isle, with a town, anid about one thousand inhabitants iu all. Sark has about three hundred inhabitants.. Returning to the English shore, we first de- scry Eddistone light-house, beat by all the fury of the western waves. This edifice has repeat- edly been overthrown; but the present, erec- tion, by Mr. Smealon, composed of vast masses of stone, grooved into the rock, and joined with iron, promises alike to defy accidental fire, and the violence of the oce.in, though the waves sometimes wash over the very summit in one sheet of foam. About thirty miles to the west of the Land's End appear the Isles of Scilly. This cluster is said to consist of one hundred and forty-five isles, covered with grass or rnoss, besides in- numerable dreary rocks. The largest isle is that of St. Mary, which is about five miki in cir- cuit, and has a castle and garrison: inhabitants about six hundred. That of St. Agnes is rather fertile: inhabitants about three hundred. The whole inhabitants of the Scilly i^les are com- puted at about one thousand. Ttie cattle and horses small; but sheep and rabbits thrive well. Considerable quantities of kelp are prepared amid these rocks. On turning to the north, first appears the lit- tle isle of Lundy, situated in the Bristol chan- nel, about three miles long, but n..>t a mile broad, with about five hundred acres of good land, some rivulets, and a castle. It was for- merly a noted retreat for pirates. Some small isles lie off the Welch coast of Pembrokeshire and Caernarvon, such as Culdy, Skomar, Bardsey, and others: but the isJe of Anglesea deserves more attention : it is about twenty-five miles in length, and eijrhtecu in breadth. The chief towns are Newbuigl), Ruau- maris, and on the western extremity, fronting Ireland, Holyhead. This isle is so remarkably fertile, that the Welsh have einphiitically styled it the mother of Wales; and (>f la(e hui been also productive of rich copper tomul in the Parrys- mountain, in the N. E. part of tho island, near Amlwch, of which an account h;;s been ^- given i> £ 674 GEOGRAPHTCAL DEgCRIPTIOK OP THE WORLD. given in treating of the English minerals. Beau- maris is a large town, witli a castlu built, hy Ed- ward I. Newbiirgh is a corporation of smaller moment. Hulvhpad, originally a fishing town, has become of consequence, by the Irish packets which pass daily, the average time being twelve hours. The last English isle worth mention is that of Man ; it is about thirty miles in length, and fifteen in its greatest breadth. In the midst is a high mountain, culled Snafel. The chief mi- neral productions are black marble, slate, lime stone, lead, copper, and iron. Man is also vreW stored with black cattle, and sheep; and the population has of late years greatly increased. SCOTLAND. Extent.] That part of Great Britain called Scotland is about two hundred and sixty miles in length, by about one hundred and sixty as its greatest breadth ; it extends from the fifty-fifth degree of latitude, to more than fifty-eight one- half. The superficial contents have been com- puted at twenty-seven thousand seven hundred and ninety-three square miles, a little exceeding that o ' nd, and considerably more than half that OL -land. The population being esti- mated at oiie million six hundred thousand, there will, of course, be only Hfty-seven inhabitants for ■every square mile, a proportion of about one- third of that of Ireland. Divisions.] The territory of Scotland is un- equally divided into thirty-three counties, which, according to their situations, we shall arrange under three divisions: the first, or the northern, including Inverness-shire, and the country north of the chain of lakes and forts; the second, or the midland division, including the territory north of the Firths of Forth and Clyde, as far as the borders of Inverness-shire; and the third, or southern division, comprehending those coun- ties that lie between the Firths of Forth and Clyde and the English frontier ; we shall also add to each county the amount of its population, according to the general enumeration of the island in the year 1^1. Northern Division. "Orkney Caithness Sutherland Ross Cromarty Inverness 46.844 2'i,()09 23.117 52,21)1 3.052 74,292 Midland Diviaion. Argyle Bute Nairn Murray, or Elgin Banff ^ Aberdeen Mearns, or Kincardine Angus, or Forfar Perth Fife Kinross Clackmannan Stirling Dumbarton 71.859 ll.7Ull 8.2321 2fi,765| 'Am mm 126.3661 10,8581 JjO,82S 20.710 Southern Division. West- Lothian, or Linlithgow 17,8. Mid-Lothian, or Edinburgh Viifii East- Lothian, or Haddington '^9,vhat are now styled Druidic nlrn, are numerous ; and there is a reniark- ile one in the isle of Lewis. Sonic of these muroeiits are of small circuit, and such are iftimes found at no great distance from each ler; as they were not only erected as temples Odin, Thur, Freyga, and other Gothic Dei- ; but every chief, or lord of a manor, having iriidiction over many servants and slaves, such ill courts became places of necessary awe. The houses seem to have been entirely of wood turf; but in some spots singular excavations fotiml rudely lined with stone: these are led IVccnifi, and it is likely that they Were |way» adjacent to the wooden residence of some liet^ and were intended as depositories of res, &c. the roof being too low for com- i[|able places of refuge. The stations and imps of the natives are distinguished by their nd form, while those of the Romans belong Ihe 8<||uare. Under the next epoch it would be dilFicult to over any genuine remains of the Dalriads. [lie houses, and even churches, were constructed wattle-work : and the funeral nmnunients were iron, or heaps of stone*. To the sixth epoch may probably belong a pel or two, 'Still remaining in Scotland ;• but is probable that thesit sacrrdi edifices in stoiie esoon followed by the erection of 'those rude, od piles, without any cement, called Piks ises; yet they may more properly belong to ' > The seventh ' epoch, when the Danes , may e ill the honour of the erection, for such lices have been traced in Scandinavia. They Vol. II. No. CXXI. scorn to have consisted of a vast hall, open to the aky iu the centre, while the cavities in the wall present incommodious recesses for beds, &c. These buildings are remarkable, as displaying the iirst. elements of the Gothic castle: and the castle of Conigsburg, in Yorkshire, forms a(i eusy transition. The engravinl obelisks found at Forres, and in other parts of Scotland, have been ascribed to tlie Danish ravagera, who had not time for such erections. They are, prObably« monuments of signal events, raised by the king, or chiefs ; and as some are found iu Scandinavia, as recent as the fifteenth century, it is probable that many of the Scottish obelisks are far more modern than is generally imaigined. To enumerate the churches and castles erected since the reign of Malcolm 111. would be in- finite. Sitne of the most splendid churches de- rive their foundation from David I. in the twelfth century. Remuion.] Since the revolution, 1688, (he Ecclesiastical government of Scotland is of the Presbyterian form. The number of parishes in Scotland is nine hundred and forty-one; conti* guous parishes unite in what is called a Pres- bytery, of which denomination there are sixty- nine. The provincial synods, amounting to fif- teen, are composed of several adjacent Pres- byteries; but the grand Ecclcsiastictil court is Ihe general assembly, which meets every year, in the spring; the king appointing a commis- sioner to represent his person, while the mem- bers nominate their moderator, or president. To this Ecclesiastical council laymen are al»o admitted, under the name of Ruling Elders, and constitute about one-third of this vcnernblt- body. This court discusses and judges all cle- rical affairs, and admits of no appeal, except to the parliament of Great Britain. In general, the Scottish clergy deserve the highest praise, as men of enlightened minds, and moderate con- duct; and a singular proof of>the diifusion of talents among them has! recently ap])cared, in the statistical account of Scotland, published by Sir John Sinclair, in twenty-one volumes; for there are few parishes of which the account is not ably delineated by the clergyman himself. As\vhatever establishment is effected in a free country, opY)osition will always arise, the esta- hiishmesit of the Presbyterian system was, in the space of one generation, . followed by the.se- 8 L cession m 619 GEOOUAPMICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. ceision, which took place in 173f2. The se- ccderi being the most rigid in their Hetitimeitls, and animated by pence utioD> toon formed a nu- merous party. About the year 1747, they were thcmaelves divided into iwo denominations, called the Burghers, and the Anti-Burghers, because the division arose concerning the Icgahty of tiie oaths taken by the burgesses of some of (he royal boroughs; the former ullowing that the oath is proper, while the lntt< the supreme court in criminal causes, wbich are determined by the majority of a jury, aad not by the uoauHnity, as in Eng- land. There is also a Court of Exchequer co I sisling of a Lord Chief Baron, and four Bmom*! and a High Court of Admiralty, in which tli«r? is only one judge. The keepers of ihe n^ and privy> seals, and the lord register or kMnei of the reoirds, may also be mentioned uiided this head. Laws.] The law of Scotland differn esientiul from that of England, being founded, inamn measure, u|>on the civil law. It partly lonsiHii of statute law; but many of the aiiciriit statuin never havinj| been enforced, the < hirf rule nl this sort arises from the dcciiion» of tliegcsgiuj which are carefully preserved and pobiiiilicd, ,„j Bilor l'B'"§^ °'^ vulgar or neglected; such at liebBfS''' o' ''^^'''<*> cock Meekip, or a capon lyileddoirn with leek*; crapped liendH, or hud- 1^1(1 itewfldt the heads being stuffed with n hind of forced-meat bulU, &c. &e. The diet of K lower claisea pugges in u gradual transition toi (he north of England. The chief food ig rich, or thick pottage, formed with ontmeal jl water, and eaten uith milk, ale, or butter; jglwrd lumpy form it is culled hrosc. With liii the labourer is generally contented twice or dricc in the day, with a little bit of meat for iiii(i»y; ix^r does he repine at the bacon of the ^nrlisb poor, there being a theological anli- Hlliy to swine, which also extends to eels, on J(;(),u"t"f tlieir 8crp(Mit-like f<»rin. 'i'lic Bobiiety of the lower cUssch is in general scm|)larv ; and the Scottish niuiiufiictiirer ur bourcr, instead of wasting his weekly gains a! jalehouse, is ambitious to appear willi his fu- yiv in decent clothes on Sundays, and other Mh^A- This may be regarded as a striking liirurtRrislic of the Scottish peasantry, who tfcr (he lasting decencies of lii'e to momentary iliH<'s(ions. To this praise niav be added, that |lint«;llii>;ei)ce, arising'frnm the ditfusion of educa- {(11, which is such, that even tiie miners in the uili possess a circulating library. I The dress of the superior elaises is the same [ithtbat of the English. Tho gentlemen in the ghlauds, especially in the time of war, use 'peculiar dress of that country. Among the |licr classes, the Scotish bonnet is now .rarely irccived, cxcc|)t in the Highlands; it was the ual covering for the head all over Europe, till irards (he end of the sixteenth century, v hen I bat, formerly only worn in riding or hunting, ne into general use. iTheamuseminits of the rich arc on a parallel |lb those of (he English; but those of the pea- itry have several diversities, which the reader fj, perhaps, best learn from tlie poems of i. That of rtH'/iVtg consists in rolling large DCS, with iron handles, upon the ice, towards liied mark, a favorite; and healthy diversion in t winter. The English quoits arc supplied by ^tystauef, round flat stones, which are tossed bhe same manner. t!(GUAaE.3 The Scotish language falls under diviaioos, Uiut of the I«owlaudt consisting of the ancient Scandinavian dialect, blended with the Anglo-Saxon; and that of the Highlands, which is Irish or Erse. EnijoATioN ]'Tlie inndo of education pursued in Scotland is highly laudable, and to judge from its rH'ects is, perhaps, (lie best practical system pursued in any country in Europe. The plan which is followed in the cities is nearly similar to that of England, cither by private teachers, or at large public schools, of which that of Edinburgh is the most eminent, and may bo traced from the sixtt'enth century. But the su- perior advantage of tlu; Scotish education con- sists in every country parish possessing a school- master, as uiiiforuily as a clergyman; at least the rule is general, and (he excepiiiuis rare. The schoolmaster has a small salary, or rather nit(ance, which enables him to educate the chil- dren at a rate easy and convenient, even to in- digent parents. In the Highlands the poor chil- dren will attend to the (locks in iho summer, and the school in the winter. UNiVEHbiTiF.s [] The universities of Scotland, or rather colleges, (fur an English university in- cludes many colleges and foundations. ) amount to no IcsH than four, three on the eastern coast, St. Andrew's, Aberd>vn, and Edinburgh; and one on the western, that of Glasgow. Cities AND Towns.] Edinburgh, the capital, is comparatively of modern name and note, the earliest. hint that can be applied to it, occurring in the Chronicon Pictorum, about the year 1)55, where mention is made of a town called Eden, as resigned by the English to the Scots, then ruled by Iiidulf. Holyroud lluusu was the foundation of the Hrst David. The population of Edinburgh, includ'iig the port of Leith, was, in 167S, computed at thirtyr live thousand five hundred ; in 1755, at seventy thousand four hundred and thirty; and in 1791, at eighty-four thousand eight hundred and eighty-six. The houses in the old town of Edinburgh are sometimes of remarkable height, not less than thirteen or fourteen (lours, a singularity ascribed to the wish uf the ancient inhabitants, of being under the protection of the castle. This part of the city stands on the ridge of a hill, gradually descending from the lofty precipice on which the castle is situated, to a bottom, in which stands the palace of Uulyrood Uouso, Adjacenjt to ^-(\ 1 ii GEOGRAPIIICAI. DF.SCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. 4o this edifice, is a park of considerable extent, replete with rocuntainous scenery; for the ba- saltic heights 01 Arthur's seat, and Salisbury ^crags, are within its precincts. The new town 'Of Edinburgh is deservedly celebrated for rc- igiilarity and elegance, the houses being all of 'fr«e-stone, and some of them ornamented with pillars and pilasters. _ Inland Navigation.] The most remarkable -inland navigation in Scotland, is the excellent and extensive canal from the Forth to the Clyde, -commenced in 1768, from a survey by Smeaton -four }ears before. " The dimensions of this canal, though greatly contracted from the ori- ginal design, are much superior to any work of the same nature in South Britain. The English canals are generally from three to five feet deep, and from twenty to forty feet wide, and the lock gates from ten to twelve feet; but they answer the purpose of inland carriage from due town to an(»tber, for which alone they were de- signed. The depth of the canal between the •Forth and Clyde is seven feet ; its breadth at the surface fifty-six feet: the locks are seventy- 4ivc feet long, and their gates twenty feet wide. Jt is raised fVom the Carron by twenty locks, in -A tract of ten miles, to I'le ama/ing height of one hundred and tit'tv-five feet above the me- « dium full sea mark. At the twentieth lock be- gins the canal of partition on the summit, be- tween tlie east and west seas; which canal of •partition continut^s eighteen miles, on a .level, terminaling at Hamilton Hill, a mile N. W. of the Cl\de, at Glasgow. In some places the canal is carried through mossy ground, and in others through solid rock. In the fourth mile ' of the canal there arc ten locks, and a line aque- duct bridge, which crosses the great road lead- ing from Edinburgh to Glasgow. At Kiikin- tullock, the canal is carried over the water of Logie, on an aqueduct bridge, the arch of which is ninety feet broad. There are in the "whole eighteen draw-b/idges, and fifteen aque- . duct bridges, of considerable size, besides small ones and tunnels." Tiie gu|>plving the canal : wi(h water, was of itself a very great work. Oiie reservoir is above twenty-four feet deep, and covers a surface of fiftv acres, near Kilsyth. 'Another, abo^it seven niilos north of Glasgow, consists of seventy acres, and is bunked up at a ■luice, twenty-two teet. t.i The distance between the Firlb.s of ClyJe Forth, by the nearest passage, that of the p'^tj land Firth, is six hundred miles, by ihU J^j scarcely one hundred. On the 28th of Jn'i | 1790, the canal was completely open from 3 to sea, when a hogshead of the water of Po!^ was poured into the Clyde, as a symbol of the] junction. The length of the caiial ig piccigeJ thirty-five miles, and no work of the kind be more ably finished. The general commerce of Scotland, (houe on a smaller scale, and with smaller capitali; i in most respects similar to that of England an shares in the national prosperity. That of (R capital, through Leith its port, has been ettl mated at half a million yearly. The chief ei ports are linen, grain, iron, glass, lead, woolM stuff's, soap, &c. &c. The imports are wim brandy: and from the West Indies and Ameria rum, sugar, rice, indigo. Glasgow exnoi] cottons of all kinds, muslins, lawny, gauzes,! glass, stockings, earthenware, cor(ln Seasons.] The clinialeof Sci land is such as might be expected in a latiti^ so remote, and a country so mountainous, the eastern parts, there is not so much humidj as in England, as the mountains on tlic arrest the vapours from the Atlantic. Oni other hand, the western countries arc dclii| with rain, an insuperable obstacle to the gress of agriculture. Even the \> inter is nil distinguishable by the abundance of snow, tl by the intensity of the frost; but in stimiiier| heat of the sun is reflected with great puwerl the narrow vales between the mountains. T observations chiefly apply to the north undt SCOTLAND. \. ?-if r.»xi ^79 I igfije east and south the climate diflers but little from that of Yorkshire ; and corn sometimes ripens ia the vales of Moray, as early as in iotbian. Facb of the Country.] The face of the country is in general mountainous, to the ex- mt, perhaps, of two-thirds; whence the popu- IlitioD is of necessity slender, in comparison with IiIk admeasurement. But the name of High- llinds is more strictly confined to Argyleshire, the Iwest of Perthshire, and of Inverness; and the Iglire counties of Ross, Sutherland, and Caith- In proceeding from the south-east, the otunce into the Highlands near Dunkcld, is Kfv impressive, there being a considerable tract Lf plain, jus^. before what may be termed the ilet of the mountains. Even the eastern parts Jite little of uniform flatness, but are sweetly Hvenified with hill and dale. The rivers in leoeral are remarkably pure and transparent, I their course rapid. Rivers.] Tbe three chief rivers of Scotland, I the Forth, the Clyde, and the Tay. Next I consequence and io fame, is the Tweed, fi, lutifiil and pastoral stream, whicb> receiving iTevoit from the south, near Kelao, falls into E sea at Berwick. The Scotish Tyne is an in- isiderable river, which runs by Haddington. JLuES.] Among the lakes of Scotland, the ef in extent and beauty is that of Lomond, ded with romantic islands, and adorned with Lres of tbe greatest diversity. The isle? nre jpposed to form part of the Grampian chain, kicb here terminates on the west. The depth [this lake in the south, is not above twenty oms; but the northern creek, near the bot- of Ben Lomond, is from sixty to eighty lioms. }d the east of Lomond is an assemblage of [ious lakes, the Ketterin, or Cathiu, the Con Cbroin, the Ard, the Achray or Achvary, the acher, theLubnaig; exhibiting singular and hresquc scenes, called by the Highlanders the >:Achs, a word signifying rough, or uneven ds. I: Levcn, in Fifeshire, attracts Observation ills historical fame. There are lakes in the I of Perthshire, and to the east Loch Ern, I Tay, and those of Rannoch, Lydoch, and lit. That of Tay, in particular, is a grand loL. II. No. CXXl. and beautiful expanse of water, of such length, as rather to resemble a noble river. Loch Ness rivals Loch Tay in extent and re- putation. The depth is from sixty to one hun- dred and thirty-five fathoms, the tish excellent trout. Its great depth is the cause why it never freezes. It is remarkable that the bed of this lake and in general of the watery chain which extends to Loch Linney, is filled with puddiug"- stone, hills of which occur near Dunolla and DunstaiTnage, on the western shores of Argyle. In the western division of Scotland Loch Awe, in Argyleshire, is the most considerable lake, it is about thirty miles in length, and from one to two in breadth; and is studded with many small, woody isles, one of which bears the ruins of a monastery, and another those of an ancient for- tress, the residence of the Campbells of Lochawe, afterwards Dukes of Argyle. But the chief distinctive feature of Scotland consists in its numerous mountains, which in- tersect the country in various. directions; so that to attempt a particular description of them would be foreign to our plan. Forests.] The forests of Scotland are very rare, in the proper acceptation of the term ; and tbe Sylva Caledonia has long since vanished. The whole county of Selkirk was formerly de- nominated Ettric forest. There was also a con- siderable forest, that of Mar, in the west of Aberdeenshire, where now remains the forest of Abernethv, extending to Cairngorm. In the county of Sutherland was the forest of Sletadale, on the north of Dunrobin, the seat of the earls of Sutherland ; and in the north of the same county, are marked Parff-forest, between Ashir and Dunan; to the south of which were Reay forest, or that of Dirrymore; with those of Dirrymore, and Dirrymena, on the north and south of Loch Shin. No other forest occurs till we reach the county of Argyle, which contains lioachiltive forest on the north. ZooLouY.] The small horses of Galloway seem to have been a primitive breed, and, iii diminutive size, are exceeded by those of Shet- land. The cattle in Galloway are often without horns, a defect which it supposed to be recom- pensed by the superior quantity and quality of the milk. The kylies, as already mentioned, are a middle-sized breed from the province of Kyley 8 M and r-M.vi «80 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF TWE WORLD. B' ■ and other disiricd of Ayrshire and Gallowaj. On the east are found large cattle of various breeds. The sheep are smaller and shorter than those of England; those of Shetland are re- markable for the fineness of the wool, which is^ however, interspersed with coarser piles. Goats are not so numerous in the Highlands and Isles as might be expected. Scotland abounds with fish of all kinds, and contributes great supplies to the English market, particularly in lobsters and sahnou. Pearls are jbuad io the rivers Teith and Ythan, in a large kind of mya or muscle. Many beautiful zoo- phites, on the northern shores, have been found . MiTfERAtoGY ] The small quantity of gold found in Scotland has been procured from the J^ead hills, which are mostly composed of coarse slate. . The silver' found ia Scotland has hitherto been of little account:' the chief mine Was that At Alva, which has since only afforded cobalt Copper has been found at Colvend, in Gal- loway ; at Curry, in Lothian; at Oldwick, in Caithness; and Kissern, in Ross-shire. But the chief minerals of Scotland are lead, iron, and' coal. The ^hief mineral is coal, which has been worked for a succegsion of agei. • Popo Pius II. in his description of Europe, written about 1450. mentions, that he beheld with wonder, black stones given as alms to the poor of Scot- land. Mineral Waters.] The mineral waters of Scotland are numerous, but none of equal fame -with those of England. The chief are MoB'at wells in the south, and those of Peterhead in the north. Natural Curiosities] Scotland, like other mountainous countries, abounds ^ith singular icenes, and natural curiosities. The beautiful falls of the Clyde, near Lanark, have excited much attention. SCOTISH ISLES. Tbe islandft that belong to Scotland are nu- merous and important, and fall naturally into three grand divisions: tbe Hebudes, or Wt^stern Islands; the Orkoejfi; aud the islands of Shet- land. On passing the conic rock, called AiUa, to- ward* the uoftb» two beautiful iflaodi adorn the Firth of Clyde, those of Arran and Siite. Ti, first is about twenty-three miles in length h' nine in breadth, and has* seven thousuntJ jnh " bitants. The chief place is the village of Ran? • and Brodis castle is memorable in history, 'ri,' exports are black cattle and barley. It j^ inountainons region : and Goatfell is near thrn thousand feet in height. The southern partsi the islitnd present low and cultivated grounds Bute is about twelve miles long, h- fj,„j broad; inhabitants >about four thousand; M chief town is Roth'^ay, and in the vicinity Mount Stuart, thd* residence of the Marqursi Bute. ■ ' To the west wf Guntife, b^^io the Hebude or Western Islands, property so called. Jk first iAilay, about the shm^ length &% Arrad but nearly eighteen mlleft in breadth. Hay nJ duces i.-'any black^ eattli^j ^hich are expnrttj and sometimeH pass as far'as England. But||d sheep are rare; small horses are much used, the country is not very 'mountainous Inhabl tanti about seven thousand. Lead iniim yi^ here discovei'ed in tha stand stone, 1763; tli{ lead is, as usual, mingled with silver. Jvkk is divide froM the last by a narrll sound: it is about twenty miles long, buttl breadth seldom more than five. It is one of || most rugged of the Hebudes, which, in neral, are monnlainous regions. The paptj Jura, a Mae of conic hills, present a $in^|| appearanee; they 'are on the western sidroft island, and alinoi»t bare of vegetation. The I crops are potatoes and barley ; and (he islecti tains abundance of peat. The cattle are !niJ but the sheep excellent. The noted giilphi whirlpool of Brcoan, or Corryvrekan, ison( northern extremity of Jura. To the west of Jura are the isles of Oral and Colonsa; and the strait between (lu'ral dry at low water, they may be considered as^ island, about ten miles in length. The soiil light and arable. The next isle of any consequence is tli3l| Mull, one of the largest of the Hebudes, i surrounded with smaller inlands. It is abi twenty-eight miles long, by a medial breadtlj about eighteen. Its population is about thousand. Stafiii, about six miles to the north of M SCOTLAND. 681 ii to the north of Hji fcolm-kflt, has heautiful basaltic columns, 1 one of the most surprising objects of na- * (he vast basaltic cavern, called Aii-ua-viiie, either from ture> Of the a nie- harmonious grotto, yious sound, produced by the perciifsion of Ae waves at the furthest extremity, or from the «Bct order in which the columns are disposed, iijjglit of the entrance fifty six feet, breadth Ajfty.five, thickness of the exterior vault twenty. The depth, or length of the cavern is no less Han one hundred and forty feet. Skcy is the largest of the Hebudes, being jboiit forty-five miles long, and twenty-two |)roa(l. Inhabitants about five thousand two tinndred; chief exports black cattle and small horses: the land, as usual in the Mbbudcs, rough indliilly- The houses are chiefly turf, covered withcjrass. The face of the country wild, heathy, in'i deluged with continual rains. In Canna is Compast Hill, which strongly all'ects the needle. Leuis, the principal island of the western tbain, is about fifty miles long, by twenty Jiroad. The face of the country consists of a lealhy elevated ridge full of raorasiys from the loutb-west to the north-east; but near the shores e sereral verdant vales capable of cultivation. he Harris, or south end of this isle, is still ore mountainous, and presents what is called forest, because some deer are there found. amesVI. attempted to introduce industry into e Hebudes by planting a Dutch colony at ;ornaway, in Leuis; but it was soon extirpated lytlie inhabitants. Stornaway is, however, now .considerable and flourishing town, with an ex- ellent harbour. The seasons in Leuis arc op- resscd with rain, as usual in the western ighlands and isles; but there is a considerable iihery. South of Leuis ts North Vist, about twenly- miles long, and seventeen broad. The face of e country corresponds in general with that of f Leuis. Westerly winds, with rain or fog, lurp two-ihirds of the year. The Orkneys form a numerous group around leMain Land, whi«h is about twenty-five miles ng, by thirteen broad. Kirkwall, the chief wn of the Orkneys, contains about three hun- ted houses; and has a stately cathedral de- lated to St. Magnus. The thief exports of irkwall arc beef, pork, butter, tallow, hides, itlf 8ldna> rabbit nkias, salted lisb, oil, feathers. linen yarn, and coarse linen cloth, kelp, and in fruitful years corn. The chief imports are ,wood, flax, coal, sugar, spirits, wines, tobacco and snuff", flour, and biscuit, soap, leather, hard- wares, broad cloth, printed liryns and cottons. In most parts of the Main Land the soil is good, though shallow, with a calcareous bottom. The horses are small, but spirited; and the cows, though also small, yield excellent milk. The Norse language has yielded to the Erig-lish, and the manners of the people are singularly civi- lized for so remote a region. The inhabited islands of Orkney are computed at twenty-six, and the people at twenty-three thousand and fifty-three; the base is chiefly sand stone, as ap- pears from Mr. Jameson's recent Mineralogy of the Scotish isles. ■ i.^ The islands of Shetland present another gronj* similar to those of Orkney ; with a main land or chief island in its centre. The main land is much intersected by the sea: and is abOnt fifty- seven miles in length, by about ten or twelve miles of medial breadth. The other isles arc generally small, yet- twenty-srx are said to be inhabited. " On viewing these islands in ge- neral, a wondjrful scene of rugged, bleak, and barren rocks presents itself to our view. No tree or shrub is to be seen, to re!;.-ve the eye in wandering over these dreary scenes. Sometimes, however, a few scanty portions of culliva'pd ground catch the eye of the Iravfller, exciting emotions of pleasure, and forming a striking contrast to the barren heath-covered mountains which skirt them. The western part presents many scenes as wild and sterile as can well be conceived; grey rocks rising from the midst of marshes or pools, and shores bounded by awful sea-beat precipices, do not fail to raise in the mind ideas of desolation anr! danger. The coasts are in general rugged and precipitous, present- ing in maiiv places scenes (rulv i>-ra;id and uip":- niHcent; vast rocks of various heights, dread- fully rugged ar ' broken, onjiosing tlicir rude fronts to all the fury of a tempo-fMOtis ocean; which in some places has formed great detached pillars, in others has excavated grand natural arches and caverns that mock all iiiiman mag- nificence; and strike the beholder with that auc and wonder which must affect every one on viewing these amazing wrecks of nature*." The climate of the Shetland isles is variable, and „...:.;,;.. - , disturbed It n .«* R'>i I 1 I f '-1, i '. t •>! i: '* Jamcson't Mia. p. 2, 3. Svo« I J 082 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. disturbed ^vilfa rains and thick fogs. The frosts are seldom severe, and snow rarely continues long on the ground. The inhabitants are in- deed sufliciently wretched without additional evils; and a benevolent government ought to pay a particular attention to those distant prisoners. The corruscations of the Aurora Borcalis il- luminate the long gloom of winter, and delight the inhabitants, who call them merry dancers. The arable land is mostly near the coast, and produces a coarse kind of oats t^nd bigg. Po- tatoes have lately formed ao addition of sin- fular advantage. The chief food of the ia- abitants consists of fish, and various kinds of sea fowl, which cover the rocks: the captors of the last shew singular skill and intrepidity, and often meet with a violent fate amidst the stupendous precipices. The chief eitports of Shetland are fish of various kinds, chiefly herrings, cod, ling, and torsk, or tusk. The inhabitants of the Shet- land islands in 1798 were computed at twenty thousand one hundred eighty-six, which is more than the country can well support. In this dis- tant region there are neither roads nor bridges, which may be pronounced the first steps in any country towards the progress of industry. The same deficiency occurs in the Orkneys, and even in the northern extremity of Scotland; where however a road has been recently opened be- tween Ullapool and Dornoch *. i . .:\,-: J'.,. S IRELAND. Extent.] This large and fertile island is about three hundred miles long, and one hun- dred and sixty at the greatest breadth. The contents in square miles are about twenty-seven thousand four hundred and fifty-seven; and the population about thre" millions. Kkligion,] The legal religion of Ireland is that of (he cnurch of England; but it is com- puted that more than two-thirds of the people are Catholics; and of the remainder the Pres- byterians are supposed to constitute one-half. There are four archbishoprics, in themselves an evidence of the great number of churches formerly existing ; and eighteen bishoprics. Under the archbishop of Armagh are the * Pinkcrton. + Goiigh'8 Camden, iii. 487. The primacy is worth eighty pounds a year, Deny scren thousaud pounds; the 3 bishops of Meath, Kilmore, and Ardagh n more, Cloglier, Raphoe, Downe and c'onnl"* Derry. — Under the archbishop of Dublin KM dare. Ferns and Laughlin, Ossory.—Under tM archbishop of Caahel, Waterford and Lismor I Limeric, Killaloe, Cork and Ross, Cloyne *i Under the archbishop of Tuam, Elphin, CloviT' Killala and Achonry f . ^ **j The Catholics have also a hierarchy ncarl 1 similar, but the metropolitans and bishops ar I considered by the Protestants as merely titula*! The Presbyterians being here Dissenters, the[rl form of ecclesiastical government necessarily an. proaches that of the Independents. ^' Government.] The government of Irelandl was constructed upon the plan of that of Eng.j laud, being vested in the House of Coniiijonj| and another of Peers, while the King was re'l presented by a Lord Lieutenant or Viceroy. Bull no act of importance was considered as va till it received the sanction of the King and! Council of Great Britain. At present Ireland! being united to England, tbe form of goverQ.] ment is of course identically the same. TbetJ are some minute variations betwern the statulj and common laws of Ireland and those of EnpJ land. ^P Civil Divisions.] Ireland is primn-ily di-l vided into four provinces, viz. Ulster to IM north, Connaught to the west, Leinster to tbJ east, and Munster to the south. The subdil visions are counties, of which the following \I a list : :, ', 'Donnqgal 'Louth *"%'' Londonderry Muath , > Antrim Longford Tyrone \VesinicatIi Ulster Feniiaiingb Dublin IMonaghati Arniaglj •■-^'^KlSr"" Down Queen's-comity Cava 11 W^'hw , ^Leitritn Carlo w ' 1 Slipo Kikcnnv Connaught ■< Mavo 1 Oalway • .Wexford 1 /'Clare ' '^Roscommon 1 Tippcrary /Cork I ^ Kerry other bishoprics from four thousand to two thousand poiindil Young, ii. 18!^. ArmyJ I 11 E L A N T). 685 Armt.I Besides large contributions to tlie i-jjjjl, army, Ireland in 1780 raised upwards If forty thousand volunteers, and has recently 1° jpped a considerable militia and yeomanry. Ilfwe suppose every eighth person capable of I Ireland might raise a force of more than Lee hundred thcmsand men. Of mariners Ire- land contributes an inadequate proportion, and Jcrior in skill to the British. Revenues.] The public revenues of Ireland ■ere computed by an intelligent traveller* at Lul one million sterling, or six shillings and Mt-pc»ce a head, when those of England stood tone pound nine shillings. PoiJTicAL Importance, &c.] The political uportance and relations of Ireland are great, [intimately blended with those of England; biiilelicr western position imparts singular ad- Mh^ei in the commerce with America and the Vejit Indies. 1 jIanners and Customs] The manners of the ^perior classes of people iu Ireland now nearly LoAcI) to the English standard, except that [ceil in wine, unfashionable in England, con- nues to prevail too much in the sister island, tel^sh gentry are also seldom addicted to li- Ltture or the arts ; but amuse themselves with Lgting and other robust exercises. Hence an Mow of health and spirits ; aiid the obser- [tion of an able writer, that Ireland produces e stoutest men, and the finest women in Eu- [pc, must not be confined to the inferior classes. I common people of Ireland still retain too jtiiy features of national manners. A funeral (joiiied by all the men and women of the vi- ^itv, and is accompanied with dreadful howls, other barbarous ceremonies. Their diet insists chiefly of potatoes and buttermilk; and le rural cottage is a wretched hovel of mud. it favourite liquor is usquebaugh, or the tier of life; but more properly the water of jitli, being an ardent and pernicious distilla- |ii ffom corn. The English language daily gains ground in (land, and might, if proper attention had III bcRtuwed on the national education, have \me, ere now, the general idiom of the liiitry. The ancient Irish is a dialect of the Otic intermingled with many Gothic words, borled by the Bclgic colonies, by ttie Scaudi- [vm, and by the English, Wll. NO.CXXI. :.— .—'•- Education.] In no quarter of the British dominions, has education been conducted upon a more solid and rational plan than in Scotland; and no where has it been so much neglected as in Ireland. It is to be hoped that one consequence, and not the least important, of the union, will be the introduction of parochial education into Ireland, a sure mean of preventing the ebulli- tions of ignorant discontent. Universities.] With four archbislioprics Ireland only possesses one university, that of Dublin. This institution was first projected by archbishop Leech, about tl.e year 1311; but death having interrupted his design, it was re- vived and executed by Bicknor his successor, and enjoyed moderate prosperity for about forty years, when the revenues failed. In the rergn of Elizabeth the university was refounded by voluntary .contributions, under the auspices of Sydney the Lord Dcpu* ". It consists of a Chan- cellor, Vice-chancellor, Provost, Vice-provost, twenty-two Fellows, and thirteen Professors of various sciences. The number of students is commonly about four hundred, including seventy on the foundation. The building consists of two quadrangles, and it contains a library of some account, and a printing oflicc. At Kilkenn" there is an endowed school, or what is calle-, a college; but its institutes sccai little adapted to the quiet of an academical life. The Dublin Society for the improvement of Agriculture and Manufactures was instituted by the eflbrts of the patriotic Dr. Samuel Madden in 1731, being the earliest of the kind now ex- isting in Europe. Cities AND Towns.] Dublin, the capital of Ireland, continued little known till the tenth century, when it was mentioned in the Saxon Chronicle; and in the beginning of the next century, we have coins of Canute struck at Dublin. The situation is delightful, in a bot- tom, between ranges of hills on the south and north. It is pervaded by the river Lift'y, and by some rivulets. The inhabitants have been esti- mated at one hundred and fifty thousand; this capital beina: justly accounted the second in the British douiinions. The circumrcrciiceof Dublin may be about ten miles, being about two miles and a quarter in length, and as miicli in breadth. The harbour is incommc;dious, being impeded with two banks of sand, called the north aud S N south I !:;* f !l i» m ■• !!i.!ii; 5* t' Vi m .!ii * Young's Tour in Iri'IiUiil. et4> CEOGBAPHICAL DKSCIIIPTION OF THK WORLD. BOu■ 'i ''.i1 m ■ ii" iJ! h 689 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. Ti'.--- iTi Fcrnamoor mountaim to (he M'est of Lough- uiaok ; and the Twelve Pins, a line of so many small puks in Ualiinahinch; with others to the ■onth of Loughcorrib. Bogs.] The bogs form a remarkable feature of (he country. Boatt; divides them into se- veial genera and species, forming an eluborutc scale of sterility. The dry heaths are generally confined to the mountains. The bogs he sub- divides into four descriptions: I. The grassy, in vhith the water being concealed by herbage, Ihey become extremely perilous to travellers: some of these are dry in the summer. 2. The pools of water and mire. 3. What he terms hassocky bogs, or shidlovr lakes studded with tufts of rushes, which are chiefly found in (he province of Leinstcr, especially in King's and fj the country; for mines have, '" all ages, um ■ J and moilern, enriched and in; proved the co 1 tries where they were found, and the cxcoDii" if such, of Spanish America is to bo assigiicj?' causes of a dillereot nature. '^ The silver foimd in the Irish mines drsfncil more attention. I'oatc nientions a mine of il metal, intermingled with lead, which y,- wrought in the county of Antrim, and viclJcdl a pound of pure silver from thirty pounds ^ lead. Another, less productive of silver «- found near the harbour of Sligo, in Connmiirli and a third in the county of Tipperary, (weli miles from Limerick. ■ The ores of (his i,., were of (wo kinds, most generally of a reddiv colour, hard, and glittering; (he other, whi, was (he richest in silver^ resembled a blue marl The works were destroyed in the Irish insurrcc. tions under Charles I. Copper has been recently found in thecound of Wicklow, and at Muccross, in Kerry. One of the chief mineral productions of Ire, land is iron, the mines of which were little kiioyfi till the time of Eli/abeth. The beds of coal to be seen in various recioi of Ireland have not yet been explored (n ihe proper extent. That of Kilkenny, fomij Castleconier, is dcst;rvedly celebrated anion"' mi neratogists as the purest which has yet becDlnicei in any quarter of the globe. One of the most beautiful marbles of Irclai is found near Kilkenny, and others havehcrnij covered in various parts of (ho island. Slate, various kinds, is also abundant. Natural Curiosities.] The lake of Kilhr] ncy is an expanse of water about ten milc< leoijth, and from one to seven in breadth: it divided into three parts, called the upper, limci and jyiuckruss lake; and is surrounded bv aniphithcatrc of mountains, clothed with irei whose verdure is contrasted with interveiiii rocks. Cascades, and other features of run beauty, are not wanting. What is called the Giant'f Causeway nni distinguished among the most remarkable ufil curiosities of Ireland. When we recollect itj a similar production, the celebrated isluiid 1 Staifa, remained unnoticed till within thca-lliil years; we shall be the less inclined to \vunil| will greatly benefit, in all ages, mckJ improved the couii-j , Hiid the cxcoption^i I 18 to be assigned id Irish mines doner itions amine of tlijJ lead, which \,j^ Antrim, and jicldi )in thirty pounds on H'tive of silver, wai Bligo, in Connmiglit] »f Tipiicrary, iwcKJ he ores of this iJ encrally of a reddi^ g; the other, wliiii isemblcd a blue inatlj in the Irish insurrcc] ' found in the countj ross, in Kerry. il productions of IrcJ lich were little kuovtl een in various rogioii ■en explored (o theij Kilkenny, found cclcbralcd anion;; mi licb has yet been UaceJ B. 'ul marbles of Irclan i others have been diil the island. Slate, idant. ] The lake of Killij ler about ten miles i icvcn in breadth: iiil ailed the upper, lowcj is surrounded bv ns, clothed with irea isted with inlcrveiiiiij ther features of tw\ int's- Causeway nniilli most remarkiiblc of i ,Vhcn we recollect ti!| le celebrated ishuiii i id till within these tl less inclined to \vu 1 ■ ll . 0' f I 1, m h H. ■our Wtf: ku .r FRAN C E. CS7 thittbe Giaot'i Cauieway !• an object of recent observation. The first account is tliut given by Sir R. Butsklcy, in a letter to Doctor List«:r, 16\)'J. Thii lurprisin^ collection of baiialti^; pillars ia ibout eight niilc> N. B. from Colerainc. The idjaccnt coait ii verdant, but prjecipitpug; and ' f„)iTi it the Cauieway projects into the sea^ to an unknown extent. The part explored is about j lix hundred feet in length ; the breadth from two hundred, and focty , ^Q . one hundred and twenty; the height from sixteen to thirty-six feet above the level of theatrand. It, consists of Liny thousand pillars, mostly in a vertical po* Uitiun; some pC tbein high, others broken, and, for a considerable space, of an equal height, so I as to form a pavement. They are closely com- Ipartcd together; though the form be various, |trig>)hal, tetragonal, pentagonal, hexagonal, and heptagonal ; the most numerous are tl^e pen- Itagunal. The pillars are rarely composed of one ^n'ire piece, but mostly consist of short or long lioiDti, either plain or alternately concave and Lnvrx. The pillars are from fifteen to twenty- Vour inches, 6r more, in dianietcr. Towards the E, is what is called th« organ, in the side of hill, consisting of fifty pillars; that in the middle is forty feet high, the other gradually kliininishing. Similar pillars are also found a Lie and a half inland, four miles to the west of |(iK'm( Pnn'nnt, mile Fnn^oine. mdle. Dtpartmiult, Non«. l>it« de-C«late. . Somine. 'Seine IiiMrieuMi Calvadoi. MmicIm. Orne _Kure. JSeine. Vseme and Oiie. ^Oiiie. / Aime. : ' ^ Seine And ftlarn^i SMarne. Ardennes. Aiibe. Haute Marnd, lU. N0.CXXII. He Fnnct. ppigne. Chief TouiH, Duuai, Arnu, Amiens. Hoiicii. Caen. CoutancM. Aleiicon. Evraux. Parii. Versailic*. Beautais. I'«on. I ' Mciun. ^ Ohitons-iu'r-Mame, 'IroTes. C'luiiiiuvat. I • The bualt of the Gianl's Causeway is of »rttj com. ict texture, and the angles of the pillars hare preserred ririharpnesSy though exposed to the sra for perhaps two (three thousand years. The same shore also presents ho. 4nial and bending pillars, like those of Stalfa ; the at. kiilmt minerals are zoolite in the irregular basalt, steatite, hd bits of agate, red ochre, and iron ore. 1 1 iy the conquests made by France since the commence. )(iit uf the j-evolulioa its inhabitants njay 6u estimated at hiiit eighty millions. . h The fullowing table eihibits a ?iew of the divisions of laace unilur the Louis's, and the modern departments : the Giant's Causeway, and at the cnpcs of Bou< gore and Fuii'bcud*. FRANCE. : Extent. 1 The extent of France, before the recent acquisitions, was computed at one hun- dred and forty.eight thousand eight hundred and forty square miles; and supposing the then po- pulation to be twenty-six millions, would render one hundred and, seventy-four, inhabitants to each mile square. The boundaries were, on the west, the Atlantic Ocean; on the south, the Medi- terranean and Pyrenees; on the east. Savoy, Swisserland, and Germany; on the north, the Austrian Netherlands, the Geriuan Sea, and En- glish Channel. It extends from about the forty- second to near the fifty-first degree of north la- titude; from about the seventh degree of lon- gitude west frpni Paris, to about the fifth oa the east; being in length, north to south, about six hundred British miles, and in breadth, west to east, about five hundred and sixty f. Divisions.] Previous to the revolution, when France was under the ruling power of the Ca- petian dynasty, that country was divided into Erovinces; but by the recent alterations wbick ave taken place in France it is now divided into departments;]:. Anti^uitiei... Antimt PrmHueti. Lorraine. Alsace. BreUgne. Maine and Perehe. Anjoii. Touthine. Orleuiols. ber'fi.- ; ■''■■' Nivernoii, Bourgogne, Franche-Compte. ' Pelctou. Marche. JMpartmtnti, 5rMeuse. IMosrlls. jMturthe. ' Haut-Rhin. Bas-KUin. rh\e and V'ilaine. 1 C6te(-du-Noid. < Jinisterre. I Morbihan. (.Loire Infeiieure. iSatthe. M.iyrnoe. J Maycnne and Loire, Indre and Loire, C,Lairel. < Euro and Loire. (Loire and Cher. •JliWre. ■VCI»er. NiAyre. Yonne. C6te d'Or. Haone and Loiic Ain. Hatite-Saftne, Doubs. _Jur«. r Vendue. J Deux-Sinci, £>Vienne. JHautc-Vicnncs 5«>inprising pait of ^Limosin. (Ctsuze. 80 Ckitf Tntni, Bar-aur-Otnain. Metz. Nancy. Kpinal. Colniar. Stnbbonr{. Itcnnes. St. Brieiix. plumper. Vanncj. Nanu«. Le Mans. Laval. Angcri. Tours. Qrleaiu. Chart re$. Blots. CliiiteauroUK. Boiirjes. Nevcri. Auxerre. I)iji»U. Macon. Boiirc;. V«ouI, Ucsan(^n. Lons-le-Saunier. Fiiitenay- livPcupIe, Niorl. Poitiers. X.imogc, 1>»!.Jm4 ■>wnt!e, comprising Aunis. AngMiimnis comprwiiig part of^Charcntt. Samtonge. Auvcrgne. Charente-Inftrlcura. I-ronnoii. f ortt ft Be«u]oloi«> Paupbiot' Gvyenne, compre- Pny de AtxMt Caiital. RhAiie, Luire. _ Wte. Kaiitci-AliXi' ; Dr6ine. 'Onfdogne. Giruiule. Lot and Garonne. Lot. kenduig Gascognc. S Aveyron. Gen: B«m. Cointfcde-Foix. RouMilloa. {.angocdoa frovenee. Coniea. I I^ndei. LHautC) Vjitniai. JBassos-Pyrtniei. Arriege. Pyr«n6elre. VHiraut. Bouches du-Rhone. Basses Allies. Var, Golo. Liamonc. Ch^f Tnnu. Tulle. MouHni. Sainlce. AngouUmw. Clermont. St. Flour. Ljon- Montbrlioa. GreitoMf. Gap. Valmea. Perlgiwux. BorilealiK. AgLTJ. Cahon. Hhbdei. Attch, Momde-Manu. pirbe. Ku Tdiascon. K-rpignan. Touioune. Circaisonne. (^41 res. Niines. .'Bf'xde. iVivas. Le Piijr. MontpvUier. Aix. Digne. Toulon. Ihitia. AJaccio. The abov« are the modem departments of old France ; the recent conquests hare also been muuldi^ loa similar ftrni, under the name of te-united departments} these are the folloiring; Atcient Namu. Re-uniteH Vepartmnf. Territory of Avip- f VaucI,,.,., with the non, coomy "f j Bouches du Khone. J Mont Blanc. VThe Maritime Alps, V Mont Terrible. Vena'siin. District of Apt. Sat'jy. County of Nice. BUhot ric o\ Basle. ^ Austrian HaiiiauU. ' Jemraapet, Wetiein part of JLy*. Atttlrian FUuden, \ " Ch'nf Twfu. Avignoa. Chamtttrr. Kke. P»rmitiuy. iti*^ later periods the monumAnfg are in mimernu that it would be vain to attempt to eniimpraS them. One of the most singular is (hr Mttit fl tapestry, which was preserved in the ca(|,e,| " church of Bayeux, in Normandy, rrproseniiiJ I the beginning and termination of the ^r,„„(j ^^^ test between William and Harold, which led" the conquest of Englnnd by the Norman, U is said to have been the wtirk of IVlHiilda, vl\ of William: and bears every mark of that re- mote antiquity. Religion.] The religion of France ij \\A Roman Catholic ; but the Gallican clinrfli, ,ii„J its re-establishment, has been considerably mo. Jt»-tt»iU4 DefoTlimmU, t F.icaul, Detix NMhea, kMeuM Infirleur*. > Gunh9i C'l'/ Tmu. Gawl. An»eh. BruKvllct, Maestrlcht. LK'ge, Rimbre and Meiyft Foritj. . SarrB*. . Anritnt Xam»t. F.aart of Brabant. Part of tbe Country of Llrne, and uf Guoldmaiidt Part of the counfriei. (if Li*fe, and of. Limbauff, with the prineipalltles ol' Straveio A Malraedi, ' County of Namur. I>U«hy of Lniem- liourg. Part of the Archbi-lo... .„ „ shoptle of Tr#T.^. \ »""•• «* >««»>«•• '^afl of the ArchW-) sliopric of Tie«e vast acquisition! mu*tabo tit added, the recent annexil of the whole of Piedmonl, the isle of KIba, Ac. tec. and iliekir^l of Hullaiid, which lait was annexed to thuKiencb empiieoiiiLcnl of July, IblO. • III Picartly, aad other parti posiestrd by the foJ there art! circl*;s, and other nioiiumciitB of the kindwlT we call Pruidic. Nt-ar the town of Carnac, uti tluioJ Vanncs, in Bretagnu, there is a grand monmmiitoff kind, far exceeding Stonchonge, if the accuunt he noil aggcratcd, which says, that there about four iho stones, many as high as eighteen or twtnty feet, n»U. CMtf r«uai. C«Ml. Antm. Bruxvllci. Manuteht. LU'p. gf^ K*mnr. Luxtml>ur|li. !U«. Coblentt. TlltM. Mtjenctt, Aix-ta-Chi[i«lIa. 0«nivi. iliaaMed, the ttxm* annoii r F.\b«, Ac. tec. and ilie kir.fl 10 ibu FiencU emiiiie on \U ,rt» po8«o»«ed by the M jiiumciitg of the kiniiwi ( II of Carnac, on llu' loul s a grand monuuicni o(r ;e, if the account lio m' there about four ihui tccu or twtnty feet, iiiii« ^leiren ivws. .axrt r » )) i^ Hcca *• n A N C E. «8i$ hifie(i> ^^^ rendered wholly independent on Rn- I, influence. The general division of France lui) »rchl)i»hopric8 and bishopries remains much same as before the rev«lnti«)n; but the re- lifiuies and power attached to these ecolesiaslical I gj^pg are now only sutticient to render them re- Ledal'le. hut not formidable. I Government.] The present government of iFrancc we are not able to describe. At present, lliowcter, it seems to approximate to a Miilitary Iforni. PopuL/iTioTj] The population of Franc -.^ was Ifnrmerly computed at twenty-six millions, but ■the recent acquisitions would swell it to the for- nidable extent of near eighty millions. At all vents, France is a country teeming with popu- liilion, and quickly resumes her vigour after stu- Iprndous losses, as Europe has repeatedly cx- jpcrienced. 1 Coi-oNiEs.] The French eolom'es are at pre- Ut unimportant, notwithstanding the additinr. of the Spanish part of St. I>omingo. The best Itfthein have been convulsed and ruined for a asoii by intestine commotions Army.] The political convulsions which have itated this unhappy country, the enthusiasm, od yet more the despotism, of freedom, have iccasinnally, within these few years, swelled the rench armies to the amazing computation of ipwards of a million. But it may sately be loubtfd whether the real amount at any time iceeded six hundred thousand effective men, e French having swelled their own numbers to itimidals their enemies. Of the revenues and the political importance d relations of France we are unable to speak ith precision: it will therefore be better to lefer uur observations on those particulars till e close of the present war, when information lav lie had on the subject. Manneus and Customs.] The French have mg been considered as full of vivacity, gaiety, itciirss, a singular disposition towards social injovments, and that hjippy art which enables e adept to dispose of his occupations and ploa- iires in an agreeable succession, free from list- siiess or fatigue. The ancient and rooted enmity between France ind England nourished many prejudices against 'e French character, which have since very operly disappeared in the reports of more candid authors. Yet, with frnrpllftrs arrus- tomed to the eleirance of Ei)fjlish life, many of the French manners and customs cannot be re- conciled t(» ideas of physical purity ; and the looseness of morals, in regard to the sex, had become proverbial. Language ] The French language is the most universally diffused of any in Europe, perhaps in the world. In variety, clearness, and pre- cision, and idioms adapted to life, business, and pleasure, it yields to no modern speech ; but it wants force and dignity, and t3t more, subli- mity. The critics and academicians of th" se- venteenth century enacted such severe laws of purity, that, like gold reduced to the utrtioxt fineness, it has become soft and almost inca- pable of deep impressions. The French lan- guage is a well known corruption of the Ro- man, mingled with Ccll.c and Gothic words and idioms. Even in the tenth century it continued to be called Romance; a name which afterwards passed to the poems and tales of chivalry, as- being composed in this dialect. The epoch of classical pvnty of the French languap-e com- mences with the reign of Louis XIV. but the recent revolution has introduced such exuberance of new words and phrases, that a neological dic- tionary is required to explain them. Literature ] The literature of France has, in modem times, excited great respect and ad- miration. In the bold exertions of inventive genius, and even in profound productions of philosophy, France may be said to vie with Italy or England; and in the pleasing and beau- tiful paths of invention, and in bonks of elegant learning and exact science, she remains almost unrivalled. Education.] The state of education in all the Catholic countries was very defective till the Jesuits acquired great estimation b^. their atten- tion to this important department; to which, if their exertions had been solely directed they would have proved a most useful body of men. National educati(m has justly attracted the at- tion of the new rulers, and their success ap- pears to have been commensurate *o their laud- able intentions. " ■ ;. Universities.] France forttierly boasted' of twenty-one universities; in the north Douay, Caen, Paris, Rheims, Nanci, Strasbourg; ini the middle provruces Nantes, Angers, Poietiers, 4 Oilcans, W'¥ '.'M' m 'm '.n u 690 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THF WORLD. Orleans, Bourges, Dijon, Besan^on; and in the iouth Bourdeaux, Pau, Perpignan, Toulouse, Montpellipr, Aix, Orange, Valence. Of these the Sorbonne of Paris was the most celebrated : but it shewed an irremediable tendencj' to pro- long the reign of scholastic (heology. The aca- demieo aud literary societies were computed at thirty-nine. Those of Paris, in particular, have been long known to the learned world, by ele- gant aud piofoiind volumes of dissertations on the sciences, apd on the Belles Lettres. Nor have public institutions of this kind been foreign to the consideration of the new government. Cities and Towns.] Paris, the capital, rises on both sides the river Seine, in » pleasant and healthy situation, with delightful environs. It is divided into three parts; the town, ville on the north, tlie city in the middle, and that part called the university on the soutlu Tiie inha- bitants probably amouRt to between six and seven hundred thousand. The houses are chiefly built %vith fjree stone. The banks of the Seine present noble quays I and the public buildings are not only elco^ant in themselves, but are placed in open and commandini^ situations. The Louvre is arranged among the best specimens of modern architecture ; aud the church of St. (jSenevieve, aiuw the' P.nntheon, is deservedly admired; nor tnust the Thuilleries. the Palais Royal; and Hospital of Invalids be forgotten. Paris, no Ti(le arcU of equal size. The ancient cathedrals aiSl caslles are so numerous that it >VQ,uld be idle i I attempt to enumerate them: and the Frenfi*! nobility were not contented, like those of SpaLj with large houses in the cities, but had mndl chateaux scattered over the kingdom, to whidi I however, they seldom retired, «xcept wheiicoin^ pcUed by formal banishment from the court. I.VLAND Navigation.] The inland navigaiioj of France has been promoted by several capitall exertions. The canal of Briare, otherwise sUledl that of Burgundy, was begun by IknrvIVj and completed by Louis XIIL opening a comJ munication between the Loire and the Seine, oJ in other words, between Paris and the wesierd provinces. Passing by Montargis it joins M canal of Orleans, and falls into the Seine near Fontainbleau. This navigation of fortr-two locks, is of great utility in inland commerce. The canal of Picardy extends from the Sonitnft to the Oise, beginning at St. Quintin, and forml ing a convenient intercourse to the provinces iJ theN.E. ' But the chief work of this description is ||iJ celebrated canal of Languedoc, commenced anj completed in the reign of Louis XlV,^ y Riquet, the engineer, under the auspices of tlia|| able minister Colbert. Fifteen years of laboui were employed, from 1666 to 1681, and M mechanical ignorance of the period was sum prised at a tunnel near Bezieres, of on!) »cvcj hundred and twenty feet, lined with fiec-stonJ This noble canal begins in the bay of Lao] guedoc; and at St. Ferrol is a reservoir of fivd hundred and ninety-five acres of water : it enicci the Garonne about a quarter of a mile bolu the city of Toulouse. The breadth, incliidinj the towing paths, is one hundred and forty-fotii feet; the depth six feet; the length sixty-foud French leagues, or about one hundred anJ eighty miles The expence was more than Lai a million ster.mg. The other canals in France are vrry nti the N. W. till it enter the English Channel at Havre de Grace, after a course of about two- hundred and fifty English miles. The Loire derives its source from Mont Gerbior in the N. of ancient Languedoc; and' after a northern course turns to the west, enter- ing the ocean a considerable way beyond Nantes,. after a course of about five hundred miles. The Rhone springs from the Glacier of Fulca, ■ near the mountain of GrirascI in Swisserland ;• and after passing the beautiful vales of V^allais, and the lake of Geneva, bends its course to- wards the south, and enters the Mediterranean. The course about four hundred miles. The Garonne rises in the vale of Arau in the- Pyrenees. The course of this river is generally. N. W. It extends to about two hundred and fifty miles. After its junction with the Dor- dogne, it assumes the nauie of the Gironde. MoiiNTAiNs.] Those of Britanny are granitic and primitive, but of small elevation. They divide into branches towards Brest and y\len90ii. The Vosgcs, in the department of that name, in the S. of ancient Lorrain, arc supposed to bo connected with the mountains of Swisserland. Mont Jura, a vanguard of the Alps, forms a^ boundary between France and Swisserland. If Mont RIanc he admitted {»-iong the French mountains, the other Alps ciinnot rival its su- preme elevation. The ancient province of Dau- jihine displays several Alpine branches, which, also extend through great part of Provence. Ti»e grand chain of the Cevennes passes f/omi 8 P N to !i^ ■'' 'i''i 111;. !■} H I ; :: li V : i i' If Iff : I 1 Q.9^ GEOGRAPHICAL DESCIUPTION; OF THE WORLD. N. to S. and sends out branches towards tho E. iuid W. In the modern dopartnieuts of the itppoc Loire and Cantal, are appearances which, in the «ipiaion of eminent natiuralists, iudicatq iinciout volcanoes. The northern part of this branch i« sJiyled the Puy de Duaie, while the southecn is called that of Cantal. The Monts <1 'Or form the centre, and are the highest moun- tains in France. The chief elevation is that of the Puy de San8i> which rises about six dhou- saod three hundred feet above the level of the sea, while the Puy dc Dome is about five thour sand, and the Plomb du Cautal, the highest of that part, is about six thousand two hundred feet. The Pyrenees form a vast chain, and may be considered with equal justice as belonging citlier to France or to Spain; but as the most produc- tive and interesting parts arc on (he side of France, and her literati have exerted themselves in the description, it seems at least proper to introduce the delineation here. To the surprise of naturalists, the Pyrenees have been found to present calcareous appearances, and even shells and skeletons of animals, near or upon their highest summits, which are in the centre of the chain. Moot Perdu is considered as the highest elevation of the Pyrenees, ascending above the sea one thousand seven hundred and fifty-one French toises, or about elevea thousand feet English. Other noted heights are Marbore, the Pic de Midi, the Niege Veille, &c. The Py^ renean chain appears at a distance like a shaggy ridge, presenting the segment of a circle front- ing France, and descending at each extremity till it disappear in the ocean and Mediterranean. Thus at St. Jean de Luz only high hills appear, and in like manner on the east, beyond the summit Canigou, the elevations gradually di- minish. The highest summits are crowned with perpetual snow. To the S. and W. the Py- renees present nothing but dreadful sterility, but on the N. and E. the descent is more gradual, and affords frequent woods and pastures. Besides the in, the S. of France, and some of the tn still roll dowu particles of that metal. Th cient Gallic coins are however of a base mingled with silver^ being the metal at}le the ancientsi eleotrum. France can, how boast of the silver mines at St. Marie-aux-I^ j in Alsace, aud at Giromagny in the depart of the Upper Rh.inB, near the niimiitaii Vosgcs, also Hi part of ancient Alsace, same district contains mines of copper, a i not unfrequent in the departments of the. and (hose of the Loire, the Lozere, and Ardeche. The duchy of Deux Ponts, a luable acquisition of France on the west o Rhine, is celebrated for mines of quicks The mountains which contain this nietall brace a district of ten or twelve leagu length, S. to N. from Wolfstein to Cruz and seven or eight leagues in breadth, bci a reddish brown or grey sand-stone. I territory, among numerous mines of quick are those of Stablberg, and Donnersberg, have been explored for many centurLs. that most important and universal of met found in abundance, particularly in some northern departments. The coal mines of France were at th( time estimated at four hundred, con wrought; and two hundred more cupu being wrought. C? these coal mines occur in the provinces which formerly be to Flanders, and in the departments o logne, and La Manche. Coal is also i frequent in the centre and south of Nearly allied to coal is jet, an article foriil great consumption, chiefly in Spain, mI was made into rosaries, crosses, buttf black dresses, &c. France was from til memorial in possession of this branch,! NRTHERLANDS. 61913 ^ tlicifl gT(vwtli Ueromcs ir ( th^ W^4 rciTutkable arj I Ar4eBttes, the formei fa oua tBOops of banditli >vhj sincts: the latter for ancicn chivalry. The fortut nl from Rheims to TourDayl Sedan in the present depar^ lea. Tq these names oiigli of Fontainbleau, and mau roW mines anciently exi^ti, i, and some oi the tivulci cles of that metal The ai are however of a hase gol V being the metal slykd I nm Prance can, howevi nine* at St. Marie-aux-Mii. iriromagny in the tlepartmei inp^ near the nuruutaiiM rt of ancient Alsace. Tl ins mines of copper, amel the departments of the Al[^ Loire, the Lozere, and ll uchy of Deux Fonts, a t1 of France on the west of if ;ed for mines of quicksilvi hich contain this metal t\ {( ten or twelve leagues from Wolfstein to Cruzna( leagues in breadth, being or grey sand-stone. In tl umerous mines of quicksilvt )erg, and Doonersherg, whil 2d for many centurLs. M ut and universal of metals, ;e, particularly in some of i-nts. s of France were at ttic si it four hundred, constat vo hundred more capable C these coal mints mi inces which formerly bcloni in the departments ot m lanche. Coal is also not • centre and south of Fra oal is jet, an article formctlyl {,0, chiefly in Spain, whcri' rosaries, crosses, buttons ^. France was from time session of tiiia branch, w ycenicred in three villages in the department k^ Aude, in the S. W. of ancient Lauguedoc. tBeiinics oxccUenft freestone, the environs of li) contain abundance of gypsum. Alum is Jill considerable quantities at Avcyron. The IJnees in particular supply beautiful marbles. jiMsaAL Waters.*] The chief mineral wa- itre those of Barrege, Bagnere, Vichi, and jibieres. The warm baths of Barrege, in licuUCf at the foot of the Pyrenees, have ^long celebrated. The baths of Bagncres jintbe same neighbourhood. [KATUBAr, CuHiosiTiES.] Among the natural fiosities of France, the most worthy of no- tis the plain of La Crau, which liea in Pro- je, not far from the mouth of the Rhone. Lis the most singular stony desert that is to jfound in France, or perhaps in Europe, (diameter is about five leagues, and the con- Is from twenty to twenty- live square leagues, [ibout one hundred and fifty thousand English It is entirely composed of shingle, or I gravel, some of the stones as large as the I of a man, and the shingle of the sea shore lot more barren of soil. Beneath is a small iture of loam with fragments of stone. NETHERLANDS. Extent.] Those provinces of the Netber- jiii which were formerly subject to the house (Austria, have been recently annexed to the ch dominions. Their length, computed I the eastern limit of Luxembourg to Ostend, Ixuitone hundred and eighty British miles; [about one hundred and twenty in breadth, the northern boundary of Austrian Bra- tc the most southern limit of Hainault. I extent is computed at seven thousand five dred and twenty square miles, with a popu- lonof one million nine hundred thousand. Reugjon, &c.] The religion of the Nether- lis is -the. Roman Catholic; and, till the inch revolution, the inhabitants were noted jbigotry, a great part of (he wealth being in |bnds of ecclcsiiistics. The metropolitan see the archbishopric of Mccliliu, or Maliues. [bishoprics were those of Bruges, Antwerp, kilt, &c. in number nine or ten. The go- Liuent and laws had some features of free- ); but the decline of commerce having les- sened the consequence -of tlie cities and bur- gesses, this liberty became the monopoly of (liei nobles and clergy, who often opposed the will of the sovereign, when exerted in the most be-i nelicial manner for the good of the ('omniuuity.; The Joj/euse Ejitr^e was iheMagna Charta of the Netherlands^ a constitutional bond of i! any in the west ofl dical and total dc-I her powerB enteringi \y to the establigh-l sd Provinces, whence) 5 ruins of Antwerp.] ns is chiefly inland t loj^ing very few na^ idia Company estaJ essed by the jealousyl ivers; and the cliiefl rried on by the LiiJ fee'.] The climate Ay resemblcg that is more reraarka lb ; \et the duchy nc wine, which pi tlio Rhenish, witlii ! country is in genfl bills can scarcely! the "ast, where a r rom ibe general The soil is in genjj nes interspersed "ten with larj;c spa even in distant a^ that the Nctlierla !ry garden of Euro share with Lomba nds are watered bJ at it will be sutlicil ,he chief streams, [aas. The chief ril ivcs two other sIreaJ the latter near Ml hcnt. All these riv| ois, from no cousidl whole course of (aratively estimatcdj twenty nult^J. N.W/of Namur, ird ever returned to Ei| lited Provinces, luit is I therlands to the llliincJJJ i about eight miles N. olSj tncnt of the AL^nc. l V , I 1 '111 i mm 1 1 ' 'w »t ^■"■■'•J;'!'-.*— ---w,. /hirHi*. < ■'' V' 4* ' -^^rs--. ImvMi It lit ><«»;/. ..*•/■ < > I I 1 1 1; 1'' 1 , f s m V < ; TO A >• 'V n- r, u V; lift// ////. ,vo/-.y/ /.y cy /■/•/;/■//■ /c ivfo.rs,\:r I (i 1 () <)sm'in'»t»'* ^ '■■ ,,. * ' a " : < - f <■ J '• -^ - "! 'I, i.tittittn. fttM.fftni *v tMr ^Irt ^irn't^ Atm^-A 94 t*fn- i>vJ,t'liitt/iSii,f .\ ■,••.• //<>/.4«>m //t// «,»«»,».■».••. .*•- .^ • • • ■• N k 1 ,' •.i.o" ' ■ /'I ■ 'J , :.. 'v , 1 \ * ' 1 1 1 ! > 1 • . - i .i , • ^ • v\ .1 1 r — JC.Vi**<<' mti^'^ ■ ft.' -MW i u ll»li »■« ■ }l I i ^TCT-i*-' l l iy > im ) W» l|l » W«— "W^ ---.■ll--,i ,■■•. liporr/fi: ISI.AM> of WAI.C'H flUI-^v hini riti: FoKTlP'K'.moy.Skc \\ \ V * • t ' /«.**» I'Ht-U.A.'ff fyj .•h\fi'i^-'t Vll? /*, // > f4i /f-H tn' :'.,.■„' ,ir RUSSIA IN EUROPE. ddS lioiiu ific Sohelilf, above Niel, after receiving ILiii i''<^ ^''- ^l'*' Dernier, t extensive that ever existed; the leii<;tli be- liii.; about nine thousand two hundred English InnKs iiDtl tl>^ breadth two thousand four hun- Idrod, BoiJNDAHiFs."! By the finil partition of Po- [iuiil, European Uussia extends IVoiu the river l)iii<'«(er to the Uralian mountains, that grand hlmiii which iiatufall\ divides Europe from Asia, a liiigth of uliout one thousand «i\ hundred ir:i!(s; and in breadth above one thousand En- glish miles. The extent is computed at about lone million two huiidred thousand square miles. PuoviNCES.] The principal sub-divis: nis of lEiiropean Ru»sia are into military govermncnts; wliicli, though they are often changing, and are lloui nu'titioued by any except native geo- ij...i|)licis, it has not been thought right entirely iitomit. To the n(irth is the e.\tensive govern- inoiit of Archangel, stretching from the borders |(' Sweden to the C(uilines of Asia. South of (Ills i.loiig the Asiatic frontier are the govern- I mollis of Vologda, Perm, Viatka Kazan, Siin- \\ibsk, Saratow, arul the territory of the Don Vol.. 11. No. t XXil. Ki/Acks, each succeeding the other in a regular progress to the sea of Azof. The government of Ecaterinoslav, with the kingdom of TauriJa, is the southernmost province, and contains Litlle Tartary, with the recent con([ue3(s fii>m the Turks. On the west extend the acqui'^itioiis by the division of Poland. The government!* of Riga, Revel, Petersburgh, and Vihorg, are si- tuated along the Gulfs of Riga and Finland; and the government of Olonetz on the Swedish frontier completes the circuit. The midland pro- vinces are the following: Novogorod, Tver, Kostroma, and Yaroslav, for the most part to the north and east of the Volga; Polotsk, Pskov, Smolensk, Mosqua, ^'^ladimir, Nizney Novgorod, Moghilev, Calouga, Toula, Riazun, Tambov, Penza, Simbirsk, Orel, Sievcrskov, Tchernigov, Koursk, Kiev, Charkov, ^'^oronctz, princijially to the west of the Volga. Antiqlitils.] Of ancient monuments, Russia cannot be siqiposed to afibrd great variety." Sometimes the tombs of their Pagan ancestors arc discovered, containing weapons and orna- ments. The catacombs at Kiow were perhaps formed in the Pagan period, though they he now replete with marks of Christianity. They are labyrinths of considerable extent, dug as would appear, through a mass of hardened day, but they do not seem to contain the bodies of the monarchs. Rkligion.^ The/eligion of Russia is that of the Greek church, of which, since the fall of the Ryzantiiie empire, this state may be con- sidered as the chief source and power. The patriarch of the Russian church had usurped ex- traordinary powers, to the great injury of the Imperial prerogative; but the spirit of Peter t. broke these ignominious bonds, and the Pa- triarchs have since become comi)laisant instru- ments of the court. The clergy are very nu- merous, and have several privileges, particu- larly exemption from taxes. They have been computed at siixty-seven thousand, secular and regular. The Greek religion permits tlu nur- riage of the secular clergy. 'I'lii cathedrals and parish churches in the empire are C('i!i[uileil at eighteen thousand three lu-.ndred and til'tv; the monasteries at four hiuuhed and eighty; nun- neries seventy-four; monks supposed to be Keveii thousand three hundred; nuns hree thousand. The monasteries hu\e not been such favourite 8 Q rc^ortj ''!H I %4 ' ^' $ ill! ti; m *i ■ I 69Q GKOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. J resorts since Petnr I. and Catherine II. opened the sources oT industry. The bishoprics ainouiit to about thirty. Government.] Thegovernment of Russia ap- pears to have been always despotic, there being no legislative power distinct from that of the sove- reign. What is called the senate is only the su- preme caurt of judicature. The whole frame of the government may be pronounced to be mili- tary ; and nobility itself is only virtually estimated by rank in the army. Laws.] Immediately on the fall of the Roman empire, wc find the Gothic tribes sedulously col- lefting and publishing their peculiar codes of laws, but it would be difficult to discover any Sclavonic code till the sixteenth century, when they emanated, not from the national council, but from the arbitrary will of the monarch. The first Russian code dates from the reign of Ivan IV. and the late empress had the merit of drawing up a new code with her own hands. Population.] The population of Russia is so diffuse, and spread over so wide an extent of territory, that very opposite opinions have been entertained concerning it. By most writers it v^as only estimated at about twenty-five millions ; and it was at the same time supposed that the re- cent acquisitions in Poland might add five mil- lions to the amount : but in 1783, more exact estimates were prepared ; and, by the most mode- rate estimate, the population of the Russian em- pire at present appears to be thirty-six millions, one hundred and fifty-two thousand. Of this populatiot. Mr. Tooke assigns only about three millions and a half to Siberia, or Asiatic Russia, which contains the five govern- ments of Perm, Vfa, Kolhyvan, Tobolsk, and Irkutsk; but Perm is itself situated on the Euro- pean side of the Uralian mountains, so that we might, perhaps, allow even thirty-three millions for the population of European Russia. Navv.] The Russian navy consists of several detached fleets, employed in the itemote seas on which the empire borders at different extremities. The chief fleet is of course that of the Baltic, which consists of about thirty-six ships of the line. That in the Euxine, or Black Sea, at the harl)()urs of Sevastapol and Kherson, was conc- puted at twelve ships of the line, but not of a high rate, as the Euxine affords no great depth of watet ; but there are many frigates^ galties. chebecks, and gun-boatg. The fleet of gajli,,. in the Baltic is estimated at one hundred anM ten. Revenues.] The revenues of Russia arc sun posed to amount to about fifty millions of rublcsl which, valuing the ruble at four shillings, wilif be equal to ten millions of pounds sterling. 'r|,. national debt is supposed to amount to little or nothing. Manners and Customs.] As the Russian. empire comprises so many distinct races of uicnj the manners of course must be various. TiJ Russian is extremely patient of hunger andtliirui and his cure for all diseases is the warm balii, oi rather vapour bath, in which the heat is abov^ one hundred degrees, of Fahrenheit's therinomel ter. Dr. Guthrie has shewn that the Russjanj retain many manners and customs derived frnn their Pagan ancestors, and has given some ru4 rious specimens of their songs and music, whid seem to be very pleasing. He has also com j)ai their dances wjth those of the Greeks ; anj lindj in one of them a considerable resemblanc of ih] wanton Ionic, while another resembles the Pyrrhic He observes that the country girls dres& in tlJ scraphan, resembling the ancient stola, am) binj up their hair with the Icntn, a ribbon like tlieinl cient vilta. They tinge thejr cheeks with (J juice of the echium Italicum. When aiiiarriiJ is proposed, the lover, accompanied by a IVijiiJ goes to the house of the bride, and sa\s {o iJ mother, " shew us your merchandize, -.ve harl got money," an expression which is ilmiight J refer to the ancient custom of buying a wife. Till Russians show great attention to their nursfs.aiJ are so hospitable that they ofTer to every straiii;/ the Khlch da sol, or bread and salt, the %\\\m of food, lodging, and protection. At a repasl some salt fish, or ham, and a glass of braiiay, aij presented in the first place ; and, after diniiel cakes made with honey are usually served; common drink iskvass, an acid, thin, maltli(|uiii the houses are ornamented with stoves, and umoiij the rich, by flues conducted into every rooij which is at the same time guarded with doi windows. In several instances the Russians fori a curious junction of European, and Asiatic nuj ners ; many of their ceremonies partake of Asiilj splendour: the great are fond of dwarfs; some opulent ladies maintain female tellers I tales, whose occupation is to lull their mi>)tr<>-!| s tlic Russian t races of u various. Tli^ iigcr and lliirit; warm balli, oi e heat is abovq leit's tliermomeJ at the KussianJ ns derived fron given some cu^ id music, whif as also com |)aiL recks ; an J liiid seinbliiuc ' of tlij iblestlic I'urliic rirls dress in thj t stola, aiu! biiiJ ibboii like (he ml cheeks with ti| When auiarriif allied by a frijim >, and sa\s ',ol handize, we havj lich is ilii'ught t| uyini^ a wife. Till to theiniursesaiJ r to every iinm \ salt, . « Ih !".;') il f§ I v^,. .»*■ H " '^ '>«,: m-:- ..j^ji^,. ;> j's^". ■;cw*r.' ■^'' 11 i ! 1 1 1 J 'i' i>. ^■:4 1 t.;' :5 1; l! 'ill r ■» , ■l1 i' ' :i'l ' ^'U 1 iC •# tl *■ .,_^_^; - — «~» |.i!| L ill k ili I(]iiaya InlaiI limprovfl lign of I Jtween he V( Irud, &(| loftlic jlatc er lor ai \\ Icliief li Nil. -.. ». f ii tm .at.^_..^ ..*^., RUSSIA IN EUROPE. 691 1 iilecp, by stories resembling those of the Arabian Language] The Russian language is cx- Ilreniely tlKKcult to pronounce, and not less diflii- (ult (0 acquire, as it abounds with extraordinary \0nii, and anomalies of every kind. The cha- Ljcters amount to no less than thirty-six ; and the Itoniinon sounds are sometimes expressed in the Icreck characters, sometimes in characters quite Iplikfi those of any other language. Among othor (liniriilarities there is one letter to express the sch, \sA the latter a sound hardly pronounceable by lint human mouth. Univkrsities.] The university of Petersburg, Ifoiiiuicd by the late Empress Catharine 11. is a [oblc instance of magniKcence, and it is hoped liill escape the fate of the c«)lleges founded at Jlosrow, by Peter the Great, which do not seem 10 have met with the deserved success. Cities and Towns.] Iu considering the chief (itiej and towns of Rusita, Moscow, the ancient (jpital, attracts tlie first attention. This city is jf very considerable extent in population, tho'.igh .. iired hv a pestilence in 1771. Prior to this (Dortitiity the houses in Moscow were computed It twelve thousand, five hundred and thirty- (i^ht, and the population at not less than two hundred thousand, Moscow is built in the Asiatic manner, in which cities cover a vast space of ground. Petersburg, the imperial residence, ii said to contain one hundred ana seventy thou- iind inhabitants ; and is the well known, but sur- prisinp; erection of the last century. It stands in I marshy situation on the river Neva, the houses bfiii^ chiefly of wood, though there be some of briik, ornamented with w liite stucco. The stone buildings are few ; and Petersburgh is more dis- lingiiished by its famr, than by its appearance or opulence. The noblest public works are the (liiays, built of perpetual granite. Inland Navigation.] Among other laudable improvements, Peter the Great formed the de- "isn of establishing an intercourse by water be- tween Petersburg and Persia, by the Caspian Sea, the Volga, the Mesta, and the lake of Novgo- rod, &c. but this scheme failed by the ignorance of the engineers. During the long reign of the late empress many canals were accomplished, or at least received such improvements that the ef liuiiour must be ascribed to her adrainistra- [tioii. The celebrated canal of Vi&huei Voloshok 1 was in some sliape completed by Peter, so as to form a communication between Astracan and Pe- tersburg, the coiuso being hiefly airordod by rivers, and it was only ncces.sary to unile the Twertza running towards the Caspian, with the Shlina, which communicates with the Bultic. The navigation is performed according to the sea- son of the year, iu from a fortnight to a month, and it is supposed that near four thousand vessels pass annually. The canal of Ladoga, so called not because it enters that lake, but as winding along its margin, extends from the river Volkof to the Neva, a space of sixty-seven miles and a half, and com- municates with the former canal. By these two important canals constant intercourse is main- tained between the northern and southern extre- mities of the empire. Another canal leads from Moscow to the river Don, forming a communi- cation with the Euxine; and the canal of Croa- stadt forms a fourth. Manufactures and Commerce.] By these means the inland trade of Russia has obtained considerable prosperity ; and the value of her ex- ports and imports have been long upon the in- crease. Several manufactures are conducted with considerable spirit. That of isinglass, which is H proparatio.'i of the sounds, or air bladder of the sturgeon, flourishes on the Volga, the chief scat also of that of kaviar, consisting of the salted roes of large fish. The manufactories of oil and soap are also considerable; and Petersburg exports great quantities of candles, besides tallow, which abounds in an empire so well replenished with pasturage ; nor must the breweries and distille- ries be forgotten. Salt-petre is an imperial traffic, and some sugar is refined at Petersburg, There are several manufactures of paper, and of tobacco, which grows abundantly in the southern pro- vinces. Linen is manufactured in abundance; the best comes from.the government of Archangel. Cotton is little wrought, but the silk manufac- tories are numerous: coarse cloths, carpets, and hats, are also made in Russia, and leather has long been a staple commodity. Russia produces vast quantities of flax, which is, however, generally exported unbleached ; nor are there wanting fabrics of earthen wareand por- celain. Iron founderies abound ; nnd in the northern government of Olon.tz is a grand foun- dcry of cannon. The ^iii! ' f-.li' i'r 1 ■ '.:! .Ill: H i I "•■ fli:' Ml ^ii ^ IJlr I- • I mm i'\ M ■ ' iii ■'il!( 008 GKOonAPHinAf, Di::«?rmpTioN OF titf; wonr.D. ^1 The commerre of Russia was known in the niiddlu ai;;0' bv the connection between the IIimhc towns, in the. north oC Geriniiny and Novtiorod, cstablir'hod ab(»nt Vl'id. So wide is now this em- pire, thai it maintains a commerce of the most remote descriptions, on the Baltic and the White ^cii, the Eiixine, and the Caspian, with Persia, aval with ('iiina. Rnssia is supposed to export by t!ie Ualtie grain annually to the value of one hundred and seventy thousand pounds, and hemp riid (lax, raw and manufactured, to the amount (if a million and a half sterling. The commerce of the Euxine or lilack Sea, is of inferior moment, its chief exports being furs, salt beef, buKcr, cordage, sail cloth, kaviar, corn, with iron, linen, and sonic cotton stulfs. Import.^, wine, fruit, coffee, silks, rice, and se- veral Turkish commodities. The Russian harbours in this sea are Astracan, thr- chief .seat of the Caspian commerce, Gurief, and Ivisliar. From Astracan are exported many European maufacturcs ; and the chief imports are raw silk, riie, dried fruits, spices, saffron, sulphur, a:id naptha. The Hindoo merchants occasionally bringgold, and precious stones. The annual trade is computed at one million of rubles. Of two hundred thousand pounds. That of the Euxine is not above one third of this value. Russia likewise maintains some commerce by land with Prussia. That with Persia is of little moment : the chief imports are silk. There is a considerable trade by land vith tlio Kirguses, who send horses, cattle, and sheep, in return for woollen-cloths, irt)n, and European articles. That with China, is nearly on a par ; each coun- try transmitting to the amount of about two mil- lions of rubles, ( four hundred thousand pounds.) Rnssia exchanges her precious Siberian furs for tea, silk, and porcelain. The internal commerce of Russia is very con- siderable ; and Siberia is said to a(f )rd in gold, silver, iron. copper, salt,gems, &c. tol'iieamount of twelve millions of rubles, (two millions, four hun- dred thousand pounds, ) that between the southern and northern provinces is also of great e.\tent and value. The coin current in the empire is sup- posed to amount to nbout thirty millions Stirling, the paper monev to about twenty millions of pounds. The Siberian gold aiid silver supply an important addition t-j the national currency. CuMATK AND Skasons.] Tlje climate of Russia in Europe, presents almost every varlcfv rrnm I) 1 latitude of Lapland, to that of Italy. Rut « i,„,"| maintains the chief sway at Peterslnno-, tlieca i [| tal, and the Neva is annually frozen°iVonj N„" vcmber to March or April, the climate aionmil the Frozen Ocean, and the last European ii^k- i|.,.l on the N. that of Novaya Zemlia, or (he JSoJ Land, is of noted severity, the northern side bo. ing encompassed with mountains of ice, and \y\ sun not visible fronj the middle of Octoher tiljl February; while it never sets durinjr June aiidl July. Taurida presents, on the conti;'.r\, alldiel luxuriance of the southern year, while ti ,- iniddlcl regions are blessed with the niHd seasons of Ger- many and England. Fa( K OF THi: CoiNTRY.] In so wide an em- pire, the face of the country nuist aUo be e\. tremely various; but the chic! feature of Euro-I pean Rnssia consists in plains of a prodigious tx-j tent, rivalling in (hat respect the \ast deseils i.fl Asia and Africa. Li the south are some eMin.! sive sicppcfi, or dry and elevated plains, siuji asl that abovf the sea ol' A/of, in length about t'oiirl nil- Inuidred 1'2nglk.-h miles. The nninerou-* iiiid jesfic rivers also constitute a distinguishing Ici- ture of this empire Soil. AND A<;kici.i.tiri:.] The soil is of fonrtej also extremely diverge, from t!ie chilling niar.slifjl which border tlu; Whiteand Frozen Seu-i, to the! r' '; and fertile plains on the Volga. Tlie iiicsi fertile is that between the Don and the V iili;a,l from V orfuietz t(» Simbirsk, consistiiiii,- nf' a liluckl mould, strongly iin))reunated with salt letrc;! that is, a sod forn\ed from succesaiv fyar* of vegetable remains. In l-ivomaand Fsthoiiia, ihel medial returns of harvest are eight or ten l'old;[ and the latter is generally the produce of the ritlij plains near the Don, where the fields are ncvcrl manured, but on (he con'rar> are apt to swell tliel c'un into too much luxinianee. Pasturage is sal abundant that the meadow^-i are little regariKil,! and the artificial production of grasses is scarttlvj known. Some of the nu'adows are watered, andl produce large crops of hav, the dry pastures yiclilj a short bui, nutricious produce, and in a lew ofl the slippts the grass will attain the heiglil. of a| man, and is seldom mown. Agriculture is hardly known in the northern parts of the governintiilsl of Olonetz, and Archangel ; but in the ceiitrall parts of the empire has Iwen pursued from tiiDfl iiuracmorial. . ...,,, ^ . RlVER:^ I r. RUSSIA ' r>99 RiTERs.] The maJMlic Volga forniSj through 1 1 long space, the bouudary between Asia and Europe, belonging properly to the latter conti- gent, in which it arises, and from which it de- ,i(e] its supplies, till at Tzaritzin, about two bundrcd and fift)' miles from its mouth, it turns U, K. into Asia. This sovereign of European rirert derives its sources from several lakes in the pountaiiis of \a.\day, and government of Tver, between Petersburg and Moscow; and bends its (bief course to the S. E. ; near its junction with tbe Kama, an important river, fed by many Lreams from the Uralian chain, it turns towards IbeS. W. till it arrives at Tzaritzin. Its compa- ritive course may be computed at one thousand Kvcn hundred miles. This noble river, having L cataracts, and few shoals, is navigable even to Tver. The tributary rivers of the Volga are (biefly from the east, the Kama, which rivals the Vol^a at their junction, rising in the government lofViatka, and running N. VV. afterwards due E. Iigd then S. On the west the chief stream which IniDi into the Volga is the Oka, which rises in the Irovernment of Orel. Next to the Volga, on Itlie west, is th( Don, or Tanais, which rises Ifrom a lake in the government of Tulan, and falls lioto the sea of Azof, after a course of about liight hundred miles. The Neiper rises in the Imernment of Smolensk, about one hundred and lifly miles to the south of the source of the IVoign, and about one hundred to the S. E. of Ithat of the Duna, or Duina, which flows into Ithe Baltic, by Riga: and after a course of about lone thousand miles through rich and fertile pro- rimes, falls into the Euxinc. The Bog, or Hy- Ipanis, a far inferior stream, falls into the Liman, lor estuary of the Neiper. The Niestcr, derives [iti source from the north side of the Carpathian Inountains, and falls into the Euxinc at Akcr- Iniaii, after a course of about six hundred miles. Lakes.] The chief lakes of European Russia are situated in the N. W. division of the empire. There is a considerable lake in Russian Lapland, khat of Imandra ; to the south of which the go- Wnmont of Olonetz presents many extensive pieces of water, particularly the large lake of Onega, which is about one hundred and fifty nilcs in length, by a medial breadth of about Ihirty. The islands and shores of the Onega are picfly calcareous, and contain some valuable narblcs. To the west is the Ladoga, about Voj,. n. No.CXXIIL one hundred and thirty miles in length, by seventy in breadth, being one of the largest lakes '}n Europe. As it has mauy shoals, and is liable to sudden and violent tempests, Peter the Great opened a canal along its shore, from the Volk to the Neva. The fishery of this lake seems of little conse';|ucnce; but the northern shores produce thebe.\utiful Finnish marble, which is much used at Petersburg. On the S. W. we find the lake of Peypus, about sixty miles in length by thirty in breadth : the northern part of this lake is styled that of Ishud, the south that of Pzcovc. From the Peypus, issues the river Narova, or Narva. To the east is tbe lake Ilmeu, on which stands the ancient city of Novgorod. The Deilo, or White lake, is so called from its bottom of white clay. Mountains.] It has already been mentioned that European Russia is rather a plain country, though some parts of it be greatly elevated, such, as that which sends forth the three rivers of Duna, Volga, and Nieper. This region which is passed in travelling from Petersburg to Moscow, is by some called the mountains of Vald2y, from the town and lake of Valday, situated on the ridge : but by the natives it is styled Vhisokay Plostchade or elevated ground. In this quarter the ground is strewn with masses of granite, but the bills arc chiefly marl, sand, and clay ; and what nre called the mountains of Valday seem to be a high table land, surmounted with large sand hills, and interspers- ed with masses of i<;d and grey granite: near Valday is the highest part of the ridge, which seems to be in a N. E. and S, W. direction. Mr. Tooke computes the highest point of the Valday at only two hundred fathoms above the level of Petersburg, about one thousand two hundred feet above the sea : the height is inconsiderable, and gives a striking impression of the gentle and plain level, through which such extensive riven must pursue their course. The woods on the Val- day are chiefly pine, fir, birch, linden, aspen, and alder ; the soil in the vale is fertile, mostly clay and marl. The most important chains of mountains in European Russia arc those of Olonetz in the furthest N. and those of Ural, which separate Europe from Asia. The chain of Olonetz runs in a direction almost due N. for the space of fif- teen degrees, or nine hundred geographical miles. In the centre, between the mouatains of Olonetz 8R and .' B" ■<■ .1 ' ■A nk '8 ';:( 'HIN Is /'l! } III ■ : ij' III' 700 GFOGRAPHICAL Dfl!SCRlPtIdt^ OF THE WOULD. n I 811(1 those of Ural, there 8cems to be a consider- able chain extending from the E. of Mezen to the Caiiin Nos, a bold promontory whirh rushes into the Frozen Occito. The immense Uralian chain extends from about the iiftiuth to near the sixty- seventh tiegree of N. latitude, or aboiit one thou- jiand a;cosi;raphical miles in length, and has by the Russians been called Scmeuoi Poiiis, or the girdle of tlic world, an extravagant appellation, when we consider that the chain of the Andes ex- tends nciir five thousand miles. Pauda, one of the higliest mountaiii>\ Ateus.J The most celebrated is ne;ir Saiepia, on (be Volga, discovered in 1775. Tlic .'ipriiigs are here nuuvrous and copious, and stiiin>^!v iinprffgnatcd with ir<»n. lu the district of IVrekop, and on the isle of Tanian, belong- iii2,' to the gov(;rnment of Taurida, there arc npiings of Naptha. ■ , ^ ,„ RUSSIAN ISliES. The snrall i>le of Crnnstadt, in the gulph of Finl.ind, is onlv reiTiarkablc for an excellent li :\cn, strongly litrtiliril, the chief siaticMi of the Rds.'iian fleet. In the liaitie, Russia also pos- sesses the island of Oesel and Dago, which are of Vi considerable s-i/e, but full of rocks, the marble of the first island, is however beautiful. Both ij-les arechieflv peopled by Eslhoniaiis. • There are several i^lcs iicailbesliore of Ku?fian Lapland, and in the White Sea, but generally barren and uninhabited cocks. Novayu Zuiiili;i ■ or the New Land, is also uninhabtted, and is initiii I to consist of five isles, but the channels between them are always filled with ice. Seals, wulriises arctic foxes, white bears, and a few rein deer * are occasionally bunted by the people of Me/eii'l To the south of Novaya Zemlia is the sea of Carii, (Karskoe) in which the tide flows about two feet I nine inches. The remote and dreary islands of Spitzberacnl have been taken possession of by the. llussiiiHs. The main land of Spilzbergen extends about tlirrel hundred miles from the south t-'upe, lat. geveiit\.| six de;.' es, thirty minutes, to Vcrlrgan llo(»k, Jatol citrhty degrees, seven minutes, in un ailjacentl small isle are said to be basaltic columns, fidinl eighteen to twenty inches ni diameter, and moMly hexagonal. The moimtains are of granite anii grit; the highest not exceeding four tlii iisandl feet : for mountains in general decline in \mn\]^ towards tlu* poles. About the first of No\enilM| the sun sets, and appears no more till the be^nn ning of ['Vbrnary ; and after the begiiinuiir ofl May it never sets till .\ugiist. The onl\ shnil»l)y plant is the Lapland willow, which riMs (o (h( height of two inches. Mere are found pola^ bears, foxes, and rein deer, with walruses and seals. There are a few kind of water fowl; buj the whale is the lord of these shallow seas. Tj Russians from Archangel maintain a kind uq colony. AUSTRLVN DOMINIONS. The dominions subject to the lumse of .Vustrii embraced, till its late wars with Franee, un;) ancient kingdoms and slates, which, for 'lie-, J of perspicuitv, are here brought under one poiii of view; it haxiog been urg*'d as a reproaiu id modern geograpli\, that by the ob»tiiiaU: n; iil tion of anticpiated di\isiims, and the coi.fi-rl minuteness -of separate descriptions, it has > made ati uniform progress with modern iii> r and politics, which it ought to illustrate. Ihi:(i to use the present inslance, many an i i ij imagine that the power of the house of AniiriJ is chiellv founded on its bearing the H!i;iri/ title, whereas, it reduced to the regal -"i'oi Hungary, its hurcduury Uumuius cutillc it iJ iiial ' ' « « ♦ » .'• ?«?'*:•' AUSTRTAN DOMINIONS. 701 but generally i uviiva Zeiriliii, ed, and \» mi I iinnels l)ct\\(Tn vaU, walrusci), i»!\v roiu liter, i)l)le (if Mt:/i'n. I tlie sea of Cara,! i about two tectl of Spit'/.brrgcM y tlir. Russiaiis.I I'lids about tliieel )C, lal. 9evi'iit\- I'sran Hook, liilol 111 uii Hdjueiitl columns iVtiiil flcr, and mo>.tlyj (»r jrranitc iiui four till liMuidl di'iliiic ill hfijihi rst (>r No\('nilit'i re till the bij;iiH be bt house of Austri^ itb Frame, im bicli, for 'lit' • lit under (iiie jiuiiil t as u ropioaiu id IC obntllMtC U'lillj uiul tbe co„i .>fj plioiis, it liai ! :li inoderii lib r\i illustrate, ll.'fi 111 any hk' i : bouse of Amiri iriujj: tbe iui;.iiil the rei?al >"''><' ol ;tuiu3 eutilk- it i iui .II J- riiik ii^ong the cliief Europeiiu powers, boastiiiji^ I p^ntiiatinu of not lesK tbtin twenty luillioiis ; llmt by tbe recent ronquestd uf Frunce, it bun Uni fijreiitly circumscribed. I Rr'i.imo'*] Tbe preponderant relijrion of tbe li,iiiiriaii dominions is tbe Roman Calbohe, but I l,,,ii,j(.d witii a considerable dejxi'ce of toleration. |priil(":n, no distinct kiiii>:doni or stale can witb- liliiid bis will. Even Austria lias its states, con- Lsling of four orders, clerf^y, peers, kni^bls, |bur!;i'"'>;e in U diemia and Mo- tjiia, extended tbe like freedom t(» Hungary ; liid tbis decree remains uiieaneelled, tliou).'.b Baiiv of tbe laws of that weli-ineaiiiiia; but iii- iidirious monarch expired with their aulbor. itt tiie boasti'il freedom of lluiiiiarv is rallier Ihat of a powerful aristocracy, than of tbe people It larjie. lu gtineral tbe laws tuay be regarded as liild iuid salutarv ; and tlie Auslrians in partir.r- Ir are a well-regulited and coiileiiled piujple, [lull! the lluiijiarians arc otten dissalisiied, and Liii iiiiuli of their ancient animosity against the Bcrmtiis. Mannkus and Customs.] Various arc tbe J* III till' IliiMn.ini 1. lliis.ir iniplits tho' tVeiKieih, be Ljc iwciity i)ca«ram» arc obligod lo furuish ouo horscmau manners and customs (tf (he numerous kinp^dom» and pro\inccs subject to the bouse of Austria. Vienna, the cnp.tal^ presents a^ it were an as- semblage of nations, in their various dresses. In Austria Proper, tbe people are much at their ease: and tbe fannerH, and even poasnntry, little inferior to those of England, rravcllers have remarked tbe abundance of provisions at Vienna, and the ( onsequent daily luxury of food, accom- panied with great variety of wines. Tlie Austrian manners are cold, bdt civil; tbe women elegant, but dev(»id uf mental accomplisbinenls. 'i'he youth of rank are coujinonly i^nmrant, and of coiir.ic haiigbtv, being entire strangeis to the cul- tivation of mind, and condescension of manners, to be found among the su|)erior ranks of some other countries, a circumstance more striking to the English traveller in particular from the vio- lence of tbe contrast. An Austrian nobleman or gentleman is never seen to read, and hence polite literature is almost unk'.iov, 'i and uncultivated. In consequence of this ignorance, the language remains unpolished ; and tbe Austrian speech in one of the meanest dialects of the German, so that polite people are constrained to use French. Tbe lower orders, are, however, little addicted to crimcii or vices, and punishinents rare : rob- beries arc seldom comiuitted, and murder little knovim. When capital punishment becomes un- avoidable, it is administered with great solemnity, and accompanied with public prayers, an c.v- ample worthy of universal imitation. 'i'he next people in estimation, and the first i it numbers, are the Hungarians. Their manners are now considerably tinctured by those of the ruling CJerniaiis, but they remain a spirited people, and allect to despise their masters. Tbeir dress is well known to be peculiar, and is copied by our hussars *. This dress, consisting of a tight vest, mantle, and furred cap, is graceful; and tbe whiskers add a military ferocity to tbe ap|)car- ance. Tbe .Morbus, and other inl.iiid tribes of Dalmatia, are bone;4 and sincere barbarians ; and the dress of the Vaivods somewhat resembles the I Umi;arian. Dalmatia being di\ ided between the Greek and Catholic religions, they have graft- ed many superstitions upon both. F.^.\X(;i; VGi:.] The languagessjjoken in these ag- gregattui dominions are numerous and discrepant. V .M .^: to tlic cavalry. Uuscti. iii. 5(i. Thcjr Hi * i ', ioi CFocTT \rjnr AT. t^fspt^t'tiov of the world. Thcv hflonfr rTiirfly *i (ier'iMii of llu* rtiliii^ riaUon, ihr FLumic of the Pi'lfs, |i,irt of the Hiiii«;«rians, llic l)ali)i;ktiaii \„. trian territories in general arc so abundant in tlml various necessaries and luxuries of life, to bsl found cither in the north or south of Europe I that the imports seem to be few and inconi siderable. Climate and Seasons.] The climate of Auu tria Proper is commonly mild and salnbrioun though sometimes exposed to violent winds, audi the southern provinces in general enjoy delightrull temperature, if the mountainous y^iU be except^ ed. The more northern regions of Bohemia p.nJ Moravia, with the late acquisitions in Poland can likewise boast the maturity of the grape, an( of gentle and favourable weather. The nuinerom lakes, and morasses of Hungary, and the pro. digioiis plains, are supposed to render the lii damp and unwholesome, the cold of the nighl rivalling the heat of the day ; but the blasts froa the Carpathian mountains seems ir< lome measun to remedy these evils, the inhab .'ant being ittbi remarkable for health and vigour. Face op the Countrv.] The appearance o| the various regions subject to Austria is rathi mountainous than level, presenting a striki contrast in this respect to Russia and Prusti Bohemia and Moravia are almost encircled hyn- rious mountains, which on the east join tlie vai Carpathian chain that winds along the north am east of Hungary and Transylvania, divided fro each other by another elevated ridge : tiie d membered provinces of Poland, though in tl south they partake of the Carpathian heights, v afford the widest plains to be found within the niits of the Austrian power. This ample extent of country is also diversilid by many noble rivers, particularly the inajestij Danube, and its tributary stream the Tiefs, whici flows through the centre of Hungary ; and scarci ly is there a district which is not duly irrigat The general face of the Austrian dominions m therefore be pronounced to be highly varirgai and interesting ; and the vegetable products both the north and south of Europe unite please the eye of (he traveller. 4 Soi I -AUSTHIAN nOMIN'IONS. 703 ** Sotr, AND Aanirijr,Tt'HK. J The Hoil is upon {l),e whole <>\tr*'iiiKl)' tVrtilc and proddctivc, in Lpilc (»r the neglect of industry, which lia*; per- Lgiileil intinv parts of Hungary, vIoruviii is superior to the rest, /leing improved ||„Flenn»h farmers. '|;AM:h.1 The lakes in the Anstrian dominions jtrMiiiiiierotis, and some of them of con.-.iderahli; (ize. Bohemia presents u few small picecs of wu- Lr towards its southern boundary : hut on enter- Lf Austria HrojHir, the lake of Tratin, the Khern- JKe, and others, are of greater extent, t'arinfliia Unlains a large central lake not far from Clagon- Ifurt; and Caniioln another, the C'irktiit/ See. Mot'NTAiNs.] Upper Austria, or the western Ipirtof this province, contains nianv eoii.sidcrablc Loiintuins, the highest of v\hi(-li is in the maps called PricI, but the |)r(t|)er nume is (of^^enberg. Towards the N. Austria is divided from Ho- lliciiiia l>v a ridge of conravia from Silesia and the Prussian du- Iniiiions. The Carpathian moiuitains, that grand and e.\- llen^ive chain which bounds Hungary on the N. lind K. have been celebrated from all antiquity. IBv the Germans they are stiled the mountains of IKrapak, ^ -.ibably thev«riginal name, which was offened by the Roman eni:nciation: the Hunga- kiiiiii, a modern people, call il^em Tatra. This jenormons ridgeextends in a semicircu'iar form from Ihe mountain of .favornik S. of Wilesia towards m N. \V. But ut the mountain of Trojaska, he most northern summit, it bends tc the S. E. thecontines of the Buckovina, where it sends forth two branches, one to the E. another to the K. of Transylvania, which is also dk ided from I'alachia by a branch riHining 8. W. &nd N. E. the whole circuit mav be about five hundred Vol. II. No. CXXill. miles Tlic higlicst Miinmits of the^r mountain*, according- to l)i Towiison, tlo not exi ccd eight or nine tiioiisaiul feel, and ihev are for the most part composed of grumte and primitive lime- stone. FoitK.HTs.] To eninneratc the forests in tho Austrian dominions would lie a ta.»k atonee la- borious and fruitless. Siillice it to obsrrve, that numerous and extensive loicsis arise in every di- rection, particularly along tlir Cirpathian moun- tains, and in the provinces acquirtd from INth.Md. Even Boliemia was formerly remuikabie fof a fo- rest of great extent, a rnnain of the llercvnia Svlva of antiquity, which extended from tlu^ Rhine to Sarmatia, from Cologne to Poland. The Gabreta Svlva was on th«' S. W. of the sbhk; country, rvlieie a chain of hills nl feet concord, Of the present form of government I the state of the army, and its revenues, nothinijl can be said till its destination shall be dctermincdf by the emperor of the French. Manners and Customs.] Travellers have rc-l marked, that, in comparison with t!ie Saxonj,] who are a lively and contented people, the Prus-I sians ap|}ear dull and gloomy ; a character wiiicli| they impute partly to the military government,! and partly to the general anxiety which must have I been excited by the repeated dangers to which] their country was exposed, whenc' )>: il. ! ' i'K M :■ 1 '1: mtmt 70e GF.OGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF TITE WORLD. ten miles broad, being separated from the Baltic b^r a long slip of land, said to have been thrown up by tbe tempests and wave» about the year 1190. The lake, or bay, is of small depth, and will not admit vessels of much burthen. The Curisch Haff, so called from its situation in the ancient duchy of Conrland, is about sixty British miles in length, and about thirty in its greatest breadth. A similar ridtrc of land divides it from the Baltic; and it is full of ditugerous shelves, and infested by frequent storms. Mineralogy.]] A peculiar mineral production of Prussia is amber, which is chiefly found on the Samland shore of the Baltic, near Pillau, on a neck of land formed by ihe Frisch Half, which ccems to have been the chief seat of this mineral from the earliest ages. l,t is found at the depth of about one hundred feet, reposing on wood coal, in lumps of various sizes, some five pounds in weight, uud is often washed on shore bv tem- pests. It adds about iivc thousand pounds yearly to the royal revenue. Mineral VV-.4TEKS.] Silesiaprescnts one spring of hot water at Warmbrun, near Hirscliberg, which is believed to be the only mineral water worth notice in the Prussian dominions. WlVy SPAIN. ExTKNT.] Spain lies between the thirty-sixth and forty-fourth degrees of north latitude; its western extremity is about nine degrees in lon- gitude W. from London, and its eastern extre- mity ab'jut three degrees. The greatest length from W. to E. is about six hundred miles; the breadth from N. to S. more than five hundred; thus forming almost a compact square (if we include Portugal in this general view n\' the country ), and surrounded on all sides by the sea, except where the Pyrencan chain forms a grand natural barrier against France. DiYisioNS.^ The most recent subdivisions of Spain te'-e into the following provinces: On the Bay of Biscay €n the Freoch frootier /'I. Galicia. I i. ARturias, including OtIciIu — < and Saiitillana. i 3. Biscay, including B'scay, V. (tuipiiscoa and Alata. f4. Ni — <- are the monuiuent:?o( the Moors in Spam. The mosque at CordovJ was begun by Abdurrahman, the- lirst klialill The second khalif of that name reared llio \vj||( of Seville. But these princes vyerc fir e.vcodti in magniii;:cnce by Abdurrahman III. uho biiilj a town tfiree miles from Cordova, which \\l called Zebra, after the name of one of Imk y male favourites; and ordered a palace to hv. coiij structed by the most skilful architects oi CoiiJ stantiuople, then the chief abode of the arts hhiJ sciences (A. D. 950). In this palace wore rciv koncd one thousand and fourteen coIuuiiih oj African and Spanish marbles: while Ilalv had supplied nineteen, and the Greek emperor had transmitted ooo hundred and forty of surpri^iiJ beuutjl lie monument' o( iquc at Cordov] tlic- iitst kiiulili reared the wallj rerc f;ir exccdtiil 111 ill. will) bt (lovtt, which it' one of liiii t'eJ palace to bt; coin cbitocts oi (oii-J le of llie arts m\\ palace were rci;. teen coUiiiiiH o| vi'liile Italv hail eek empci'ur liaJ irty of surprising iv rt... ' beuutyl $ , ' • i - i '> ■ '(•'5' • . • • ■ . ■ % ■ * ' .V 1.. ■- * ' • ' J - ' 1 » ,\ ?--.5 . • . ■' ■ f. . '■ „ ■>■ J - * "iV . - ^ ' ■ ' '-,„ \ ::.'f^-' ■ ->:.. , '•> ^:, " C: \ 1 • r ' k • f * ■ 'i m i iiii " iiii i = ■[! 1 ■ :'l vi:!:# : 'M llmlies, iPacilic rival Sf) En<,'larir won rp| »hi|p to llif c;it4i Teu'cd. M^^•.^J lisrinu jlif iia(j( rar(i(«> rhis (li«( Vol. SPAIN. 707 beiuty* The hall' vim decorated with marble iiid massy gold ; and in the midst of- the ceiling fiii Ininfi^ the fiimous pearl which the ('mprror I,P() liiid sent to tin; kUalif. The pahice ot" Zebra iiii)^ars to have been aniiihiiatcd in the barbarous ,n(| fanatic wars of the middle ages: and Gra nuiia, the last Moorish kingdom, having been siilidued after the arts and MMeiires began to re- vive, it is ivitiiral there to expect the best pre- jerTcd remains of M«re8(|uc antiqnity. The <^'hri8tian antiq Cuf^TOMs.l To spcakiu-; of the iirion of Spain, one of the vnost striking of llie national cnstonw and manner f is thc common radirt'of udnltery, under the nu.sk of religion, his disgrace, which is continod to thc catholic Vol. U. No. CXXIII. svstem, is- said to have been transplanted from Italy. But the Italian cicinhei are more com- monly gentlemen; while in Spain they are monks and ecclesiastics; and thc vice becomes more flagrant, as it is practised by those verv men who ought to exhibit e.Miinplcs of pure mo- rality. Exclusive of this vice, the Spanish character is highly respectable for integrity and a long train of virtues. Con»cions of an upritrht and noble mind, the respect which a Spannird would pay to those qualities in others, is ofien centred in himself, as he is intimately .sensible that he po?.i*e8ses them. This self-respect is nenily allied to pride; but it is the pride of virtue, which certainly ought not to humble itself beft^re vice and folly. Temperance is a virtue which the Spaniard shares in common with other southern nations. In these countries the body is so much exhausted by the inducnce of heat, that the siesta, or short sleep in the middle of the day, becomes a necessary resource of nature, and is by habit continued even in the winter. The thief defect in the character of the Spanish nobility and gentry is, their aversion to agri* culture and commerce. Instead of those beau- tiful villas, and opulent farms, which enrich the whole extent of England, the Spanish archi- tecture is almost confined to the c;ipital, and a few other cities and towns; and till ;arni-h()iises are scattered over the kingdom, it will be ab- solutely impossible for agriculture to tlourish in Spain. To import German colonies, as has been done in the Sierra Morena, is to begin at the wrong end, and to suppose that the poor can set an example to the rich. An intimate coi .'lexion and intermixture of ail ranks of men, and their mutual respect for each other, form a liberal source of (he wealth and power of the liriti^h dominions ; but Spain, perhaps, despises ttie eK- umplc of heretics. Since the accession of thc house of Bourbon, a slight shide of French manners has been blended with the Spanish gravity. But fushioiH have here little sway; and the prohibition of slouched hats and long cloaks led to a serious in- surrection. The houses <»f tlia great arc lurga and capacious; but the cottar.) s and iiiii» are, on the contrary, miserable. The, Jress and man- ners of thc lower classes vo:y much in dilVerent provinces. 8 T The 'IN ^'if ' 708 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. The annisements of people of ruiik cliietly ronsiiit in dancing and cards ; but the combats '\vilh bulls in tlie amphitheatres have justly been Trgarded as the most striking feature of Spanish and Portuguese manners. The chief actors in the bull-feas(sare the picadors, who arc mounted on hursebuc'k and armed with lances, and the chulos on foot, who relieve and sustain the former; but the chief personage is the uiaiador, •wh'} enters amid the profound silence of the whole assembly, and coolly dispatches the furious animal by a blow where the spinal marrow Joins the head. The death is bloodless and instan- taneous, and deserves imitation, as humanity would wish to save pain to the animals slaugli- tered fur food. Sometimes the bull is pierced in various parts with lances, to which squibs arc fastened, which being set on fire, the maddened animal stands pawing the ground, while he draws in and exhales volumes of smoke: some- times an American is introduced, who, after the manner of hunting the wild bull in his own country, throws a rope round the horns, and entangles the quadruped as in a net, then kills him with perfect safety. Lanulaue.] The Spanish language is one of the three great southern dialects which spring from the Roman ; but many of the words be- come diliicult to the French or Italian student, because they are derived from the Arabic, used by the Moors, who for seven centuries lield do- minion in this country. The speech is grave, sonorous, and of exquisite melody, containing much of the slow and formal manner of the Orientals, who seem sensible that the power of epoech is a privilege. Univeksities.] The nnivcrsitien, or rather academies, in Spain, are computed at upwards «)f twenty : of which the most noted is that of Salamanra, founded iii tiie year 1200 by Al- phonso IX. king of Leon. The students bave, at former periods, been computed at sixteen thousand; and, even now the reign of Aristotle in logic and natural philosophy, and of Thomas Aquinas in tlioology, continues unviolated, so that a student of the >ear I81X) may aspire to as much ignorance as one of the year l.'JOO. In 1781) the number of stiulents was computed at one thousand nine hundred and nine. Cities and Towns.] Madrid, the royal re- fiidencc, is esteemed the capital of Spain. Phi- 3 lip U. first established his court at Madrid, and the nobility, in consequence, erecting numerous palaces, this formerly obscure town began to assume an air of grandeur. The centrical posi- tion seems the chief advantage, for the environs can boast of little beauty or variety. The river Man^enares is .in winter a torrent, but dry in summer : over it it an elegant bridge, which oc- casioned a sarcastic remark that the bridge should be sold in order to purchase water. This me- tropolis contains about one. hundred and fortv- seven thousand three hundred and fifty jnlij. bitants. The convents are' sixty-six ; and there are fifteen gates of granite, many of which are 1 elegant. The chief is the Puerta de Alcala, of three arches, the central being seventy feet in I height. The churches and monasteries contain many noble paintings, and the royal palaces dis- play considerable magnificence. The new pa- lace presents four fronts of four hundred and! seventy feet in length, and one hundred in hei^htj enriched with numerous pillars and pilasters. The foundation was laid in M'.iT, three vearsl after the ancient palace had fallen a sacrifice tol the flames. The audience-chamber is dcservedlyj admirrd, being a double cube of ninety fcct,| hung with crimson velvet, and adorned wi sumptuous canopy and painted ceiling. Gibraltar, so called from a Moorish or Arabicl denomination, signifying the mountain ofTurik,! who conducted the INIoors into Spain, standi oq the west side of a rocky mountam called Calpel by the ancients; and to the west of iihetowiiisl a large bay. In 14r)2 it was taken from tb^ Moors ; and in 1704 fell int(» the hands of thd English. The siege during the American war la of iVesh and celebrated memory. The inliabn tants of the town are about five thousand; aiij the garrison generally amounts to as innny. Th<{ number and strength of the military works, ad the vast galleries opened in the calcareous ru(J excite admiration. There is a stalactitic rave] that of St. Michael, and bones are found iiiiliej rock, which seem to have fallen into the caritie^ where they are enveloped in the exuding petreJ faction. The fortre.ns, in the opinion of uioif military men, is absolutely impregnable. Climate and Seasons] The climate of SpaiJ has been deservedly praised, as equal if not sul perior to that of any country in Europe ; hutil the southern provinces the heat is iusulubrioui S P'A I N. ?o;i;y 109^ I md malignant fever* sonietimca sweep off f^reut number!). 'I'lc chains of mountainR \vhich per- Tiilc Spain ^at ditlorcnt intcrviik from cast tu jj( siein to temper the climate, and supply (Oolii'K breezes. In the south the sea bree/e, be- Ignin^ abont nine in the morning, and contiiiu- Lfftill five in the evening, agreeably diversifies llie warmth of the summer ; and in the northern provinces the severity of winter is allayed by the Lximity of the ocean, which generally supplies Lies rather humid than frosty. FaceottueColntky.] The fiicc of the coun- Ly is in most seasons delightful, abounding with escellent and fragrant pasturage, vineyards, and proves of orange trees ; and tbc hills clothed with vild thyme and other odoriferous plants. The rivers and streams are numerous, and the chains Lf mountains aflord a grand variety to the prospect. Soil and Agricultuhf..] The soil is gene- rtlly liglit< and reposes on beds of gypsum, or pbtcrof Paris, itiielf an excellent manure. In Ihe Diore southern provinces the land is almost equally fcrti 1*2 : and the sugar-cane is cultivated fjtb success near Granada. Agriculture is Uvatly impeded in Spain by the superior atten- tion paid to the large flocks of sheep, which are lutiiorized by a special code, the mesta, to tra- vel from one province to another, as the season presf'its pasturage in the vales, or on the inouii- tiins. The Merino sheep, or flocks, thus privi- le^d, arc computed at Ave millions ; and one oobietnan has sometimes forty thousand. The Ifleece is esteemed double the value to that of other liheepibut the cliecks givcntodgriculturoby suih Iprivileges, unknown to all other countries, are liacalculablc. Rivers."] Among th«^ chief rivers of Spain Ire the Ebro, which anciently conferred an ap- Ipellation on the country. This noble stream rises liDthe mountains of Anturias, in a small vale E. lof Reisona, and pursuing its course to the S. E. Itnlers the Mediterranean Sea, after having run libout three hundred and eighty geographical Imilcs. The other rivers runnuig to the east are less importance, as the Guadalaviar, the Uicar, and the Segura, which enlivens the fer- kilu vales of Murcia. Towards the \Y. occurs Ihe Guadalquivir. This river originates in the Sierra Morena, and flows into the gulf of Cadiz, kter a Course of ucar three hundred geographical milfes. The Guadiana ri^ in tlic N. side of the Sierra Morena ; pursues a part of its course through Purtuifal, and falls into the gulf o£ Oadi^, after a circuit nearly equal to that of the Ebrb. i But the :chief river of Spain and Portu- gal is the Tajo, or Tagns, which rises in the west of Arragon, near Albarracin, in a spring; called Abrcga, and holds a course of about four hundred and fifty geographical miles. I'iie Uouro springs near the ruins of ancient Numantia: and its course may be computed at thtee hundred and fifty geographical miles. The Minho rises in the mountains of Galicia ; and is more remark- able as forming a part of the boundary between that province and Portugal. Mountains.] The Spanish mountains are arranged by nature in several distinct chains. The most northern is regarded its a continuation of the Pyrenees, passing on the south of Biscay and the Asturias in Galicia. This chain is distin- guished by difl'erent names, as the mountains of Biscay, the Sierra of Asturias, and the mountains of Mondonedo in Galicia. It must be here ob- served that the term of Sierra, peculiar to Spain, implies a chain of iiuuntains whose succtssive peaks present the resemblance of a saw. The gyp! unit«d hy eklcttraom oMnent t and » «>r luch a height thaA fron i(9 Bvmmit msj bs discerned th« islands of Majorca and Minorca* at the distance of fifty leagaes. No* far from Mont- serrat, near the village of Cknloim> is a hill throe miles in cirCumferHice, which is one mass of rock salt, wed id the dry climate of Spain for vaaes, snulf-boxes, and trinkets, like our Derbyshire «J)ar. The Spanish side of ithe Pyrencea Ima aot been accwrately etamined ; and as the French ininera- Jogrsts hate amply illustrated the part beloug^ ing to France, an account of these mountains has been giveti in the description of that country. According to Townsead, the aurtbernaide of the Pyirenees is chiefly «al Spain, near Daroca, whence originate the Tajo and Ebro, seems composed of argillaceous schiatos and freestone, probably rest ii^ on granite. Neat Anchuelothemofintaina are liflheatone, with slifcirsf and sometioies contain beds of red g^-psnm, with erystals of tho same colour. In general gypawaa il as abundant in Spain, as chalk is in England. The mountains on the north of Madrid, forming ]Hirt of the central chaia, are granite. Those to the north of Leon chiefly laarMe or limestone, «d a basis of argillaceous scbiatiM, riving in bold and rugged rocks which aflbrded a barrier to tlw re- mains of Spanish liberty. In returning (owarda the 8*hich, according to Mr. Towwiend, might at some times be visible at (he distitnce of one hundred miles; these branches present limestone and mjirble, sur- mounted by argillaceous schistus. Near Alhama, S. E. of the city of Granada, are found rocks, which -on a basis of shingle t>r rontid gravel, present shnditdne with shells, aurmounted with podding-atoiie, but is gjeaeral the rocks are g^-p- * Lib. xxxiii. cap. tU ttoo^ #itli strata of the m^m nibitanee crygiai.l Kacd. The S. B. part of Spain aeema calcaieon." and the cathedral of Murcia is built with a rmJ of freestone reeembling the roe of figh. ])„!| near Capo de Gata the failb aeem to have been volcanic aa French mineiralogists have inferred from tlie singularity: of its productions. FoBBiTa.J Spain contsioa many forests, partial arising from the waipt of cultivation, partly re- served Air the rwjal pleosarca of the chase; a, that of the Purdo, which eiteads near thirty miles i« length ; some of the forests are haunti d by simogiglers and banditti, who raise c«ntribii.| taCT.^ The mineralogy of Spain wu I aodratly of aaore smpiorlance than in iiiuduinl tiases. Piiay *, after obaeriring that silver wail generally foand with galena, ar lead ore, pro*! eeede to state that tlw fairest of all silver wul found ill Spam, wliere the pita, begun by Hiui-| nibal, lastcid io his time, being kmiwn bytiiel names of their original discuvereis. That rtiiedl Bebelo had yielded to Hannibal three hundndl piiunds weight a day, a mouatain being pierrrdl for a mile and a half, through which the work- men diroeted large streams of water ; so tiiat tlifj plan pursued acorns to have bwn that called bii.'. i«g by modern writers. Strubof informs iisllutl the prnriace nf the Turdituni, modern Andulusia,! wa« tbe nsost productive of precious metuls ; andl gold, silver, brou, and iron, were no wherti found more abundaat, aor of better quuliiy:! gold was found in the sands of the rivers ao ltor-[ rents, a known attribntc of the Tagua. Poiybiuil iafovHta (US QOiicermng the laiocs of silver narl Cartbfgopa, wbicb ■ocaipiod « auiufaer of woM meoj t Lib. Hi. paniHfa Koolo|ry lOVB ill all &jn%,\ rb, orbi'tutiful of Africa, (he >D. The Spanish I le 888 is here no [ ual to that of I boen long ceie-{ y in the world, 1 nd the beauty of I ir, aiid aroniaticl both quaiitieij Id degenerate oaj it^f of Spain was I tlMD in iiiuduinl that silver wtil r lead ore, prchl if aii silver wu| bcf^iiii by Hwhl g Loown bvUiel :is. Tbat raili!d| 1 three bund re J I tin being pierrrdl vrhicb the work-l •ter ; no tliat tlie| that I'tf lied bmh "f* informs iistli:ill widern Andalusia,! ;iout inetuls ; anill were no sviiorel ' better qu:ililv:| :he rivers aollor-[ TagiUR. Poi3biui| ics of silver nnrl aiMuber of woik'l 1 '11 1 : \i i J: ifi; !! Vh ■: t ^r . ■i i ur' ' 'i MJi \m I tm i 1 : ' 'I H'i ••■ill '■V. \. i t\ ■I \y TURKEY IN Eunorr. 801 |-(n, «n"l yielded to the Romans twcnljr-fivc lliousiind drachms daily. Other mines of silver ,erc (ouiid near the sources of the BaUis. This juiellijrciice becomes of the more importunco, as Britain and other rcpons of the west certainly Ljirivcd tlicir gold and silver from Gaul and Mipaiii, in return for cattle, hides, and other pro- jllict!). At present almost the only silver niii.cN Spain arc those of Guadalcanal, in the Sierra I )lor('im. At Almaden, in La Mancha. are valu- jlile mines of quicksilver, which are chiefly re- iiiittid to Spanish America, and employed in re- tiiiiii"' the more precious metals, Calubine ap- irs near Alcavas, cobaltin the Pyrenees; anti- gH)iiv in La Mancha ; copper on the frontiers of PorUigal * ; tin in Galieia : and lead is common J jnmuny districts. The iron of Spain is abundant, ind still maintains its high character; and coaN ire found in the district of Villa Franca, inCata- iDnin, where also occur gold, silver, copper, and leiil f. Amber and jet (in Spanish Azabache) ire found together i^^ the territory of Belonria in the AHturias. The other minerals are rather cu- riou') than important, such as the beautiful crystal- liied sulphur found at Conilla, not far from Cidi/, the elastic marble of Malaga, and the rrcri marble resembling the verde antico, found |iKrenada. Mineral WxtEns.] Spain contains many mi- Ural waters, but few are celebrated. The hot ipriiiirs of Rivera de Abajo are situated not far fromOviedo ; and bear some resemblance to those of Bath. Near Alicant arc the baths of Buxot, Iwirm springs of a chalybeate nature, rising like [the former, among calcareous hill». SPANISH ISLES. The chief circumjacent islands belonging to |>pain are Majorca, Minorca, and Eviza; or, iccording to Spanish orthography, Mallorca, Meimrca, Ibiza. Majorca is about Hfty-five Kiiglish miles in length, by forty-five in breadth. Tiie N. \V. part is hilly ; the rest abounds with rultivatcd land, vineyards, orchards, and meadow; Ithc air is temperate, and the honey highly esteem- led: there is generally a considerable military I force in the isle. The capital, seated on a fair Jbay, is an elegant city, and is supposed to con^ (tain ten thousand inhabitants. Majorca was re- ' SceJ)ilIon, l!)."), for an account of the copper-miuc |tif Lii Platilla, near Molina. Vol. II. No. CXXIV. i:on({(i*:red from the iNIoors by James I. kiiip; of Arrugon, in hi'^l). IMajorca is generally in too strong a state of defence to admit of an easy con- quest, but Minorca has lu'cn repeatedly sci/cd by tiie English, to whom it prcscnlH an advan- tageous station for (lie Meditcrriuicau trade. It is about thirty miles in length, by about twehc of medial breadth. The air is moi«t, and tlid ^oil rather barren, being cliiedy calcareous, with lead hod fine marble. The wine is prniscd ; and the ipjiabitants retain a share of their nnciont repi'.iution as exce'lent slingers. Cittndclla, the. rupitai, has a tolerable haven, but the papula- tion and fortifications arc of little co thousand, five hundred and sixty square miles; an extent which exceeds that of Spain, or even France under the ancient rIuhumuicdan pontitf, prc- 2 sides at Constantinople; but his po;vcr has sc^-l dom intK-rfered with the. civil governraeut. N\.j,t| to him in rank are the moulahs, wlw, thoughl -"steamed dignitaries of the church, , are in fi^A rather doctors of the law, while thei^|||toran ij also a code of civil observance. From flio kiou- lahs are .selected the inferior muftis or jud"ej| throughout the empire, and the cadeles(niieic I or rhief justices. GovEriNMENT.] Tlic sultan is a dcsp(v(ie so- vereign ; but he is himself strictly subject t(i thel laws of the Koran, which, iuciudiug also iliel national religion, raise such obstructions to lusi absolute will, that an intelligent traveller piu- nounces many Christian sovereignties more ilc-l spotic. Henc6 it appears, that the power of tliej monarch is balanced by a religious aristt)('ru(\ which, together with the mutinies of ilif Jaii;.| zarics, and the insurrections of the provinciall pachas, has greatly weakened the sovereigit au-l thority. The Turkish laws arc contained in the Koran;] but to supply the defects of this work, suc- cessive moulahs of high reputation, usili;i: the] Koran as n kind of text, have constructed coiu-l mentarics which have acquired the t'orce ot'l laws. The Turiish empire is chiefly guided byl those of Aboil Hauife. As a due skill in tlieici commentaries require considerable study, cccIm- astics versed in this science became in some de- gree a distinct body from those merely dcilicaU(l| to the priesthood. Foprr.ATiON.] Turkey in F.uropf has boeiii computed to contain eight millions of iiilial;t ants; but it is probabl.: that this nuuibor raiht-i* exceeds (he truth, when it is considered nvd\ these rgions arc intersected by manv mtnii- tauious and barren tracts, and that the popuU- tion even of the best provinces impresses Ua\c'l-| lers with a striking deiect. Revenues.] I'lic revenues of the wliolel Turkish empire are computed at aboi-t 7,(K)(),lilifll sterling, while the usual expcnce do-'s notcMadl five. This revenue is partly derived from tliej capitation tax on unbeliever^, and fromtliL':( clutt, or customs; but principally from tiu' taxi on land, amounting to about six shiliintf;s aiiarro,! and which is called the Jizie. 'i'lie sultan is iilsol supposed to possess a considerable jjrivaU- tna- "urc ; V, hich, -.vhen calle*' (orlh b\ the cMiicii- cics of the state, will probably be found Manners and Ccstoms.] The manners and fiistoiiis of (lie Turks are dislinguishcd by the iiiTuiiarity of (ht-ir relipfion from lliose o I' other Iviifopeiin nations. On the birth of a child (he father himself <;ives the name, putting at the same time ai grain of salt, into his mouth. Mar- rime is only a civitcontracti whieh eitl.fr party niav break, and is managed by fcinalG uicdialioo, (he youth sehlora seeing his Ln.ic till atUr tiie lorcinony. The burial-ttrounds are nciir Ui«,hij>li- vtiY», and stones arc often placed at the head of ihepraves, with carv«d lurbuns dcuotiof:' the sex. As tlicy never intrench upon-albrmer gravti (he cemeteries are very extensive. In diet the Turks ifc extremely moderate, .and their meals are.dis- Datclied with trrcat haste. Riie is the favourite idod, an dress of the women ditVers little from [lliut of the men, t!ie chief distinction being the lirad-dre.ss; that of the fair sex consisting of a Ibiiinet, like an inverted basket, formed of paste- board, covered wiib cloth of gold, or other ele- Hiiit materiitls, with a veil extending to the eye- brows, \^liilc !i Hne handkerchief conceals the iiiider [.trtof the face. The personal cleanliness U( both sexes iv highly laudable ; but the Ei^ ropean eye is not pleased with the female cu.stom of staining the nails with ii red tincture. The amusements of the Turks partake of their indo- lent apathy, if we except Iuiiitii)g, and those of a military description. To recline on r.u elegant carpet, or in the hot season by the side of a stream, and smoke the delicate tobacco of Syria, may be regarded as their chief amusement. With opium they procure what they call a kief, or placid intoxication, during which ilie fancy i'orms a thoui^aud agreeable images, but when the dose is too potent, these are succeeded by irritation and ferocity. Chess and draughts are fiivourite games ; but those of chance arc consi- dered as incompatible with strict nuiruls. The coft'ec-houies, and the baths, furnish other sources of amusement ; and the bairam, or festi- val which follows ihcir long lent, is a season of universal dissipation. liANGtAOE.J The Turkish language is of far inferior reputation to the Persian or Arabic, being a mixture. of se\era! dialects, and possess- ing ueither the force, elegance, nor purity of those two celebiaterl oriental tongues. CAPn'ALCirii-.s.l The chief city of European Turkey, and of the Turkish empire, is Constan- tinople, so called because founded by Constaii- tiiie. The advantages of the situation fi'n liardiv be exceeded, and the aspect from the sea is pecu- liarly grand ; but on a nearer approach, the wooden hovels and narrow streets disappoint llitv splendid expectations of the sp; (tator. Tlii^ capi- tal forms an unequal triangle, resembling a harp, being about twelve or four who was banished to modern Bulgaria, has written many elegiac complaints on the eevcrity of the clime; anu it seems an undoubted fact^ that the seasons have bccoiue more genial since Europe has been stripped of these enormous forests, which diffus- ed humidity and cold. The climate of Moldavia, which Ovid would have painted like Lapland, is now little inferior to that of Hungary, though the western part be mountainous, and the easterii present many uncultivated deserts. In Walachia the air is so temperate that vines and melons pros- per. In the mountainous parts of the more -southern districts the temperature must partake of the cold, universal in such elevated regions ; but the products of Macedonia and Greece, rice, vines, and olives, -shew th.t the climate retains its ancient praise. J<'ace of the Countrv.] The general ap- pearance of Turkey in Europe is rather moun- tainous, but abundantly interspersed with deli- cious plains and vales ; and to the N. W. of Constantinople there is a plain country of vast extent, while the shores of the EuxiuepresMt many level des<>rt9. Besides the grand stream of the Danube, luany large and beautiful rivers in- tersect these provinces, and the numerous gulphs of the Archipelago and Mediterauean diversify r.:id enrich the country. Soil an« AiiRicui/rnuF,.] The soil is gene- rally fertile, the northern parts producing wheat and rich pasture, the middle and «so'ithern abun- dance of rice. i)ut agriculture, like every other art and science, is neglected by (he Turks ; and that soil must be t'uly fertile which, under their «way, can support its inhabitants. Rivers.] Among the rivers of Europ'an Turkey must first be named the Danube, which from Belgrade to Orsova divides Scrvia from the Banat, and afterwards becoj.es a '''urkish strc; rodiircd by the liquified stone dropping froui uboK, A great distinction between this grotto and others of a siiiii' lar kind in F.ngland, and other countries, is the purity «' I the material, being marble eff a snowy whiteness, umi il>el finest calcareous spar. The marUlc of Pares t>a<> Iki! known and celebrated for many ages, iM-the most pure lUt j (he sculptor can employe but some prefer that of Camn, as of a fioer and closer grain, and more obedient to tlioj chissci, th«(>reciao having a large crystalUue graiu, it|iti)| eli k fl' mure largely thaa required. Tliel )d vutming to- ^gean Sea. a contain aomej lerouiid Ismail,! lich coa»!Tjuiii-j a- part of tiist moontains arei V. of Moldaviaj i. W. for about! and Carpathian I other .iugci of iropean Turkej ' ackall, frequent j cnovrn in tlieiel f burthen must] kish horses arc I nd those of ^Va-l The breeds or) little explained. [ name of Wa- ^ular elegance;! ould be a morel reral waters arc I the^atural cu- id around mount I Of those ill the] o of Antiparoi, es to the Most of | k of fine niacblc, ince *« N EUROl'E. Archipelago arr| ilonging to Eu- larli the Xm\\( MOx, Cos, and | 'squc farms ; an. on I f, brownish ami btj ropping from aljoTf.l and others of a siini- Ties, is tho inirity ufl f whitcneu, mxl (''^l of Paros l>as IhhiI IS -the most piirctUj ofer that of (>»rrar3, lore obt'dieut to tin] atalUae grain, aiit'»| Tliel ,1' ^^i ri\ : i [:,, 7'i-i b ^\-:'U :\ m I • j Jf^l ' ' i r', ! 1 'I^¥ % ': ■ ? ' i }'. ■t-f' *- '".i 1 1 -.vJ > I in ami la pco Jbdundii pellati( III was I the nail bdldcr jrious IThis llhp k iFfcnch |f.iKiiii 'ini ( \1jS3, • Th. «'ht'r jii |li/ Ihe Vol HOLLAND. SOS The islands of ancient Greece have been so rc- ncatedly described, that little more than an eau- nieratiun may suflicc. The largest is that of Crete or Candia, which isabont one hundred and eighty British mWea in length, by forty as its (rreatest breadth. A chain of high mountains, (\lled tlie White Mountains, from the snow, jitrvades a great part of its length. The inha- bitants are vigorous and robust, and fund of irchery. This isle abounds with cattle, sheep, jwine, poultry, and game, all excellent; and the \me is balmy and luscious. The siege of Candia bv the Turks in the middle of the seventeenth century, is remarkable in modern history, as hiving continued for twenty-four years, 1646 — lt]70. This island had before flourished under the Venetians. Next is Negropont, anciently called Euboea, about one hundred British miles in length, by t»rnty in breadth, a large and importai:t island, ^tliicli also belonged to the Venetians to a late period *. The other isles are generally of a diminutive I size, among which are Lemnos, Skyro, and Aiidro. It must not be omitted, that in 1707 a I Dew island arose from the sea, with violent Tolcnnic ex|)losioDs, near Santorine, about a mile in diameter. . ' . HOLLAND. Names.] The Seven United Provinces were, lin ancient limes, chiefly possessed by the Batavi, a people highly celebrated by Tacitus: but the boundaries being modern,' there is no ancient ap- pellation which particularly denotes this country. It was lately staled (he republic of Holland, from Itlienaaic of tli€ chief province: but since (he stadt- jhdldcr was driven from his country by the victo- jrious French, it has been erected into a kingdom. IThis happened in 179o; but on .Inly 9. 1810, Ithc kingdom of Holland was annexed to the |Frrnch empire. Religion. J The protestant religion, in the IraUiiiistie form, prevails throughout the king- dom of HoUaiul. The states of Holland, in ]j83, proposed that no other form of worship The isles of Corfu, (Vf.ilonia, and Zantr, on the >'hor side of CJrectc, wen', on the fall of Venice, soizid ^/ the French, but now constitute au inJepcDJc4it r«pub. Vol. H. No. CXXIV. should be tolerated; but this resolution was wisely rejected ; and every religion is permitted, on condition that it do not oppose the funda- mental laws, or teach any doctrines subversive of the state. PoruLATioN.] The population of this king- dom has been recently computed at two million seven hundred and flfty-eight thousand, six hun- dred and thirty-two. The population of Hol- land, the chief province, is calculated at nine hundred and eighty thousand. Colonies.] The Dutch, being, for a consi- derable time; the chief maritime power in En- rope, their colonies were numerous ; besides some settlements on the coast of l^lindostan, and an important establishme.it in Ceylon, they held, and still retain, the Spice Lslands, Batavia, in the island of Java, the Cape of Good H(»po, Suri- nam, and other considerable establiishmcnts. Arm*.] The array was computed at about thirty-six thousand, but it is now incorporated with that of France. The navy, which used to consist of forly ships of the line, has by the events of the last war almost totally disappeared. The Dutch are, however, forming a powerful fleet at Antwerp, which was intended to be de- stroyed by the English in 1809: to eflect which, the most powerful and best appointed armament that ever sailed from the shores of Britain was sent ; but, alas ! the fatal eflects of the Walche- ren fever destroyed so many of our troops, that orders were at last dispatched for the speedy re- turn of the remainder to England. This discom- fiture of the English forces was made a subject of parliamentary enquiry in 1810. Manneks ANn Customs.] On visiting Hol- land, a stranger is surprized at the extreme clean- liness observable in the houses and streets ; even hamlets, inhabited by poor fishermen, displaving a neatness and freshness, which forms a striking contrast with the squalid appearance of the Ger- man villages. The air being always moist, and commonly cold, the Dutch dress is calculated for warmth and not for elegance. The people are of a phlegmatic temperament; and their courage at .sea is rathar obstinacy than ardour; while from the same cause, their labour i« rather slow perseverance, than impetuous strength, ,ike lie, nmlcr the protection of Rn^sia ; a curious experiment on the gcDtus vf luudcra G rrcci^ sx that ■\ \ If ■ '' ' !;H IM, U an .39; ii! % ■ h 1 80(3 GEOGRAPHICAL l>ESClUl*TION OF THE WORLD. uliat of the English. In former times their I ^^ ■ 1 . . ,1 1 I ! i i li ■ 1! It m>u^ III" r.'i4 % ^a^ ^^, ,^* V IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) M/ .fj^^ w^. ^ [/ ^ 1.0 I.I - 6" 2.2 1.8 11-25 11.4 11.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation aa WEST MA H STREET WE6 r^.N.y. 14580 (716) S72-450J cS^ niiiii<(^iiiii .pp. iivii||Hiiu!.,4|guigi>JjiF' m mimjim^vi '■'•,■,- 3 >it ) f i I .1 mm ' f 1 ' 1 ^■^'•^i I; lii i jthefewe Soil Inch jiderai) rtge, bacco, leftioti. knd IS to be tows se and the eleanli ^)pear lyENMARK AND I^OllWAT. hot {bin and ttie continent, particularly Germany and France. The inland trade with Germany, by (he canals and tha Rhine, ia almost the only ^aneh which has escaped the ravages of war *. Climate And Seasons. Humjdity and cold ire the chief characteristics of the climate of Holland. The ^neral face of the country is that of a large marsh which has been drained; the can&ls, and ev«n the bca, looking pale'arid discoloured by mud; but the numerous and. im- portant cities' and toMms excite adtniration, and thrmo^t dignified ideas Of the wonderful powers of industry, which seems to haye selected a chief leat annidst the greatest natural disadvantages. And even among these marshes the eye is re- (jeved by the groVes, gardens, aAd meadows; .,id to the eaftt of Utrecht the woods and hills l^tly swell tcrwftrds <3erraany. Yet the east of Dutch Brabant is «tiU disfigured by the large iDorass of Peal, extending about thirty British miles in length : Over-Yssel, so called from its irestcrn boundary of the Issel, which received ihe canal led by t)rusds from the Rhine, is al- noH wholly composed of enormous marshes and heaths; and the morass of Bourtang rivals that of Peal in extent. The nprthem provinces of Friesland and Groningen pYesent towards the S. and S. R extensive heaths ; while the parts to- wards the sea rival the morasses of Holland. Thus the whole country may be said to display in intimate combination of land and water; and I thefew elevations commonly consist of barren sand. Soil AND AgricultdiIb.] The agriculture of inch provinces cannot be expected to be con- siderable, the land being mostly under pastu- rage, excetit a few crops of madder, and to- bacco, whi<;h are cultivated ^ith great predi- lection. The pasturages in the north of Hol- land supply such quantities of excellent butter, ! u to become a staple article of commerce. The eows seem to have been originally from Holstein, and the utmost attention is paid to warmth and I cleanliness^ so that even in summer the animals I q)pear in themeadov^s clothed with ludicrous Cafe. * Of this the B^oit rctnarlftble feature consists ia the vast j floats of timber, which arrive at Dort from Andornach, and other places on the Rhine, whose copious streapi reccjvcs the trees of the German ioreCts. Th covery, must not be passed in silence. This metal yields smalt, or powder blue, used in painting corate tho brows of the female. These animals arc still nnmorous in a wild state, though the Laplanders have re. claimed great numbers, which supply the place of horses and cattle. . : il I! !•■ li' 8 Y potterjr 810 GEOOnAPIHCA!. DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. pottery, and porcelain, and in cololiring starch ; and the mine is supposed to produce a clear annual revenue to the crown of about j^ 15,000. Near it is a rich vein of quartz, containing large masses of talc. But the iron mines of Norway are esteemed the most profitable. They are chiefly situated not far from Arindal, in the southern province of Christiaosand ; and' near Skeen, between Arindal and Konigsberg. Lead appears in the vicinity of Konigsberg; and there are alum works near Christiana. In Iceland are found many volcanic productions, particularly black obsidian. The jsles of Ferroe produce agate, jasper, and beauti- ful zeolites. The magnet is also found in Nor- -way : with curious garnets, especially the green, •which are little known in other regions. Natural Curiosities.] The Moskostrom, or Malstrom, is a remarkable whirlpool oilf the shore of Norland, which will involve boats, and «ven ships: nay the bellowing struggles of the whale have not always redeemed biui from the idanger ; the bottom is full of craggy spires, and the noise truly tremendous. On the south of the Ferroe isles there is another dreadful whirlpool. The volcanoes of Iceland may also -be classed among the grandest features of nature *. The boiling springs of Iceland present a singular phe- nomenon : that of Geyser, to the north of Skall- holdt, is the most remarkable, rising from an aperture, nineteen feet in diameter, and spring- ing at intervals to the height of fifty, or even ninety feet. About twenty miles to the north of Bergen, the rocks abound with singular petri- factions. The mountains are sometimes split and engulphed by subterranean waters, of which Pontoppidan relates some instances, more to be credited, as a similar event recently happened in the south of France. The farm of Rorre, in the province of Christiana, was in 1703 swallowed up with all its buildings, and there now remains only a chasm full of ruins and saiid. t DANISH ISLANDS. The prime seat of the Danish monarchy hav- ing ever been in the isles of Zceland, Funen^ * Amonff these, Mount Ili-kla is the most remarkablf, beiiiK situated ia the southern part of (he isluiul, about twoiity Br tish miles from the ken, above which it rises to 4he heiffht of about five tiiousaud feet. The summit is co. ycred with mowj except some fpots where the beat pre- 3 Liiland, Fulstcr, and the others of thnt i^rntuu they have been consideied in the gcntrul (l('ii(7in! tion of the monarchy, In the casl, the furthest isle belonging to Denmark is that of Uornlidlni a small but fttile spot, conquered by the Swpdeg in 101.5. and surrendered to them iiy'tlie (rcalv of Iloskild, 1658 ; but the inhabitants revolted the s;inic year, and restored their isle (o the Danish domination, under which it has since con- tinued. Otr the west coast of Jutland are the isles of Nordstrand, Fora, Sylf, Rom, Fanoa, and others, which with Ilelgeland, were known to the Ro- mans; and the writers of that n^.tion appear often to have confounded them with some of the Orkneys, and even with the isUnds in the Baltic. The Norwegian coast presents one continued series of small and unimportant inlands, most of them indeed uninhabited. Among a few worthy of mention may be named Karm, Boiumel, Tar- tar. Hitteren, and others at t!ie entrance of tlie pulph of Dronthcim: the Vikten or Viktor islands are followed by those of Lotfoden, the most numerous and extensive, and noted fur the whirlpool of Malstrom. For many years the Norwegians held the isles of Orkney and Shetland, which last was staled by them the Land of Ilialt, from an adventurer so called, whence the corrupt names of Zetland, Yctland, and Shetland., The Ferroe isles remaio an appanage of thtf^anish crown : they arc se- venteen in number, and not unfertile, prodticing some barley, and abundant pasturage for sheep. Small junipers, stunted willows, and birches, alone bear a diminutive image of trees. They were discovered prior to Iceland, in the ninth century ; and export feathers, eiderdown, caps, stockings, salted mutton, antl tallow. The in- habitants do not exceed five thousand. The large and celebrated island of Iceland may be regarded as two hundred and sixty British miles in length, from the most western cape to the most eastern^ and about two hundred in breadth, from N. to S. but iiic inhabitants do not exceed fifty thousand. The go\'ernment was dominates. The craters ara p-.>nierouk, I':.t iIic cruptioim rare; there having only ber.i ten from the year 110-4 to 1693, after which it rciraiaed ^uiet till 1765, wh«a it omitted flamci auti lava. IH 8 w E n f: n. ••« 811 uy|ristocra(itfirepub1Ic for. about three hundred 1^ eighty seven years, till in 1261 it submitted to Norway, t SWEDEN. The kingdom of Sweden baving been geo- graphically described above, p. 495, tvliich see, ve shall content ourselves with a very brief ac- count of it. Naktes.] Sweden, in tbe native language Suitheod, and more modernlySweireke, appears 1o be a very ancient appellation,' aiid is said, by the northern antiquaries, to imply, a country whose woods had been burnt or destroyed. ' Modern Divisions.] The provinces of the Swedish monarchy may be arranged in the fol- lowing manner: Sweden Proper contains, 1. Upland, 2. Suder- manland, 3. Nerike, 4. Westmnnland^ 5. Da- Urne, or Dalecarlia. 6. West Gothland. 7. East Gothland. 8. South Gothland. West Norlarid contains, 9. Jemtlaud, 10. An- ffcrnianland, 11. Medelpad, \2. Halsingland, 1^. Gastrikland, 14. HerjeaO.alen, 15; West Bothnia. Swedish Lapland contains, 10. Ascle Lapp- mark, 17. Umea Lappmark, 18. Pitea Lapp- mark, 19. Lulea Lappmark, SO. Tornea Lapp- mark, 21. Kemi Lappmark> East Bothnia contains^ 22. Uleaburg, and 23. Wasa. ' N Finland contains, 24. Kuopio Karclen, or Carelia, 2!). Tavastland and Nyland, 26. Abo and Bjorneborg, *27. Kymniengard, 28. Swedish Pomerania, in Upper Saxony. Antiquities.]. The ancient- monuments of Swedep consist chiefly of judicial circles, and olhcr erections of unhewn stone, followed by the monuments inscribed with Runic characters, flome of which are as recent as the fifteenth cen- tury, and none of them caa safely be dated more &ncirntiy than the eleventh. Not far from Upsal is the n nrasten, or stone on which the king used to he enthroned, as the old Scottish monarchs were at Scone. The ancient temples, called Skior, or Skur, were- of wood, and have consequently \v?.- rished. Soitte of the old castles, erected since the use of stone, are remarkable fur their re- semblance ti> what are called Pictish casiles iu Scotland. Hblioion, Ecclesiastic Oeocuaphy] The religion of Sweden is the Lutiieran, and this kingdom has retained an archbishopric witli thirteen prelacies. The parishes amount to two thousand five hundred and thirty-seven. The priests are computed at one thousand tliroc hun- dred and seventy-eight ; with one hundred and thirty four vicars, and one hundred and ninety* two prepositi, or inspectors. Some of the pa- rishes are very extensive, as that of Eastern Bothnia, which is about one hundred and lifty miles in length, by forty-eight in breadth; and another parish in Lapland is still larger. Population.] The population o( the king- dom is thought to exceed three millions. Army.] The Swedish ai-my consists o/f nar tional troops and of foreign infantry, the latter being computed at about twelve thousand. TitQ total amount of the army may be forty-eight thousand: and the soldiers are of didinguished valour- and hardihood, and elated with the former fame of the Swedish arms. Navy.] , So fatal were the naval operations of 1792, that the Swedish fleet, which consisted of thirty ships of the line, cannot nowdi^^play above half that number. In the Baltic, which is full of low coasts and shoals, gal lies of a flat con- struction are found more serviceable than ships of war, and of course great attention is paid to their equipment by SwedCQ as well as Russia. Manners and Customs.] The manners and customs of the superior classes in Sweden are ad tinged with th6se of , the- French, that no strike-' ing peculiarity can be observed, and even the peasantry have so much vivacity and address, that they have been stiled the French of the north. The complexion, which in the northern latitudes is generally fair, is here much diversi" fied, being in some provinces extremely brown. The men are commonly robust and well formed, and the women slender and elegant. The nativet of tbe western province of Dalecarlia retain many ancient customs, and have been distinguished for their courage and probity, since the time thai Gustaf Wase issued from the minesof that country to break the yoke of Denmark. The Finlauders, on the east of the Bothnic Gulph, are now little distinguishable fconi tbe Swedes; and any re- markable !S J, 1; WW ,'r i tit GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD, -* " ' --" " " -^ — — ■ - - ■ markable peculiarities of manners and customs must be sought i.< Swedish Lapland. Danish Lapland, however, being more remote, less known, and more recently described ; an account of this singular people is given under the article of Denmark. SWEDISH ISLANDS. The Swedish isles have been before described. 8«e above p. bOi!. PORTUGAL. > The reader who wishes for a further account of Portugal than is here given, is referred to Link's travels in that country, given above, p 345, &c. Extent. 3 Portugal extends about three hun- dred and sixty British miles in length, by one hundred and twenty in breadth ; and is supposed to contain about twenty-seven thousand two hundred and eighty square miles, aifd a popula- tion of one million, eight hundred and thirty- eight thousand, eight hundred and seventy-nine. Religion.^ The religion of Portugal is the Roman Catholic ; and a strict observance of its duties forms one of the national characteristics. There are two archbishoprics, and ten episcopal sees: and there is besides a patriarch. The num- ber of parishes approaches four thousand. Government. J The present situation of Por- tugal precludes our observation on its govern- inent ; for in all probability it will shortly expe- rience the fate of other European nations. The population is estimated at two millions. CoT.oNiEs,] The chief colony from Portugal is that established in Brasil * ; and they still re- tain Madeira and many settlements on the coast of Africa, with Goa and Macao, in the East Indies, the relics of great power and territory. Language.] The Portuguese language is more remote trom that of Castille than might be expected from the circumstances. As the royal race was of French extract, it is supposed that many of the words are derived from the Llmosin and other dialects of the south of France. It is a grave and solerni speech; but would have been little 'known among foreigners, had it not ■' ' ■-'— - • 4 Ib consequence of the present war carrying on in Por> tugal, tlw I'riacc itcgcut aud the Uuceu deserted the throuc, been diffused by the fame of the Luiiad of Camoens. Manufactures and Commerce.] The Por- tuguese manufactures bre few and unimportant: hats and paper have been lately fabricated at Lisbon ; but the chief manufactories are those of woollen cloth at Covilham, Portalegrc, and Azeitao. CiiMATE AND Seasoni] The climate of For- tugal is familiarly known to be most excellent and salutary. At Lisbon the days of fair weather are computed to amount to two hundred in the year; and those of settled rain seldom exceed eighty. The medial beat is generally about sixty degrees. Rivers.] The rivers of Portugal have bcea already enumerated in the description of Spain. The Taj o is liere a noble stream, and its cstiiarj near Lisbon affords a capacious haven, from two to nine miles in breadth. Amoiiff the native streams may be named the Montfego, whicli passes by Coimbra ; the Soro, which runs into the Tajo ; and the Cadaon, which forms the har- bour of Shuval. Scarcely a lake can be traced in the map o'/ Portugal. Natural Curiosities.] On the north bank of the river Douro is a high massy clifl', vith engraved letters or hieroglyphics, stained with vermilion a^nd blue; beneath which is a grotto, supposed tQ. abound with bitumen. SWISSERLAND. Names.] The provinces known by the col. lective name of Swisserland, were, in ancient times, distinguished by several appellations. By the Romans they were regarded as a part of Gaul ; and the chief possessors were the Hclvetii on the west, and the Rhaeti on the east. After the fall of the Roman empire, this country may be considered as possessed by the Aleinanni on the east ; and on the west, as a part of Burgundia. Divided among several lords, secular and spi* ritual, the inheritances of the former at length chiefly centered in the house of Hapsburg, after- wards the family of Austria ; and, on its emanci- pation, in the beginning of the fourteenth cen- tury, first appeared the modern denomination of and flew to the UtmlSf vhich U now made the "at of go. TcrnmcnU Swisserland, ^*. S W I S S E R L A N D. '80!) g;wUserlaad> or Switzerland, eitlior derived from the canton of Schweitz, distiriguislicil in that re- volution, or from the general name of Schweitzers, given by the Atistrians to this alpine people. Extent.] In length, from east to west, Swis- sdrland extends about two hundred British uiilcs; and in breadth, from north to south, about one hundred and thirty. Divisions.] The Swiss league, before the French invasion, ronsisted of thirteen indepen- dent confederated cantons, and their subjects and allies*. The dissolution of the Swiss confederacy by the French invasion took place in 1798. Religion.] The religion of the Swiss coun- tries is in some the Roman Catholic, in others the Reformed. Of the former persuasion are IJri, Schweitz, Underwalden, cantons which founded the liberty of the country, with Zug, Lucerne, Friburg, Sololhurn, part of Glaris, and Appenzel. The reformed cantons arc of the Calvinistic or Presbyterian persuasion, being the rich and extensive canton of Berne, with Zurich, Basil, or, according to the French enunciation, Basle, Schaffhauseu, the greatest part of Glaris, and some portions of Appenzel. The coimtry of (he Grisons is chiefly Protestant : and Vallais, an ally of the thirteen cantons, has been the scene of atrocious per.secutions on account of its disatlec- tion from the Catholic faith ; hut the inhabitants, to the amount of about one huudrcd thousand, DOW profess the Roman Catholic system. In ge- neral the two persuasions live in the most amiable unity and moderation. Government.] The government of Swisser- land has been a fertile theme of discussion. The most powerful cantons of Berne, Zurich, Lu- cerne, and P'riburg, had retained much of the feudal aristocratic form ; and the insurrection of the peasants, in the middle of the seventeenth century, unites, -with repeated discontents, to convey no high practical eulogy on the constitu- tion, as these simple and honest vassals were not ihfluepced by theories of sedition, but acted solely from their own feelings of oppression. In the eye of the roost candid observers the aristo- • Thn followlnat h ii list of them : — I . Canton of Berne, with the I'ays «tc Vaiitl. 'i. C'anton of Friburg. 3. (•;m. ton of Basil. 4. Canton of Soteure. H. Canton of Schair. Iiauson. G. (^anton of Zurich. 7. Canton of Appunzol. H. Canton of Lnccrnc. 0. Canton of Zug. 10. Canton of Sohwcil/. tl. Canton of Under wakt. l*!. Cantuu of Vol. II. No. CXXV. cracy had degenerated into a venal oligarchy, more intent on procuring the lucrative govern- ment of the bailliages than on the promotion of the general advantage. The other cantons were more democratic : but the recent subversion of the government by the French, has reduced Svvis- scrland to a dependent province, with new divi- sions and arrangements. The laws of cour'-n ^ partook of the nature of the government of each canton; and under the aristocracies were sutH- ciently jealous and severe. Yet Swisserland was one of the happiest countries in Europe, and re- commended itself to the most intelligent ob- servers equally by moral and physical grandeur and beauty. tc^s Population.] The population of this country is computed at two millions. But a large portion - is uninhabitable. ' AnMY.] The military force was reckoned at about twenty thousand ; but in the late struggle with France, this force appears to have been di> vidcd, and little eflfectual. Political Importance and Relations.] The political importance and relations of Swisserland arc immerged in those of the French empire. Manners and Customs.] Amidst the general corruption of manners, thuse of the Swiss have long excited applp.-ise, from their moral uni- formity, and frank independence. The houses are generally constructed of wood, in the mostr simple form, with staircases on the outside; yet their appearance singularly coincides with the picturesque character of the country. The dress of the lower ranks is little subject to the laws of fashion, and in many cantons there are regula- tions to prevent idle ornament. Among the su- perior classes the manners may be considered as partly German, and partly French ; but it may- be imagined that at present the latter preponde- rate. In general the Swiss are remarkable for an intense attachment to their native country; and' there are few who do not return there to termi-. nate their existence. This impression is almost . irresistible, and liable to be uwakened by the most ' minute circumstances. Hence in the French armies the tunc called the Ranees des Vachcs, UrI. 13. Canton of Glaris. 14. Princi;>aIityof Ncufchatct (lately subject to Prussia). 15 Bishopric of I'asle. 18. County of liadcn. 17. Tho free Bailliages. IS. Turgovia. 1!). Tokcnburg. 30. The Rhinthal. '>\. Lands nf (he Abbey of St. Gal. SW. Country of Grisons. 23. Valtu- line. 24. Italian Bailliages. ?5. The Vallais. 8 Z often u;:; I Ml 1 • i' (il^ii; : '.!" ' "t 810 GEOGRAPHICAL DP.SCRIPTION OF THE WORLD, often sun;^ by the Swiss milkiiiuidg^ when they went to the pastures, was carefully interdicted^ hecuuse it melted the rough- Swiss soldier into teurs, and seldom failed to produce desertion. This unconquerable passion seems to arise in part IVora a moral sensibility to the enchanting ease and frankness of the native manners, and in part from the picturesque features of the country, the ,verdaut hills contrasted with Alpine snows, and delicious vales watered by transparent streams ; ^cene8 no where else to be discerncdWn such pcr- I'cction, and which must powerfully aftcct the imagiDation,tlic parentof the passions. The modes of dress adopted by the Schweitzers are better de- scribed by our plates than theyconid be by words. Language.] The language of Swisserland is a dialect of the German ; but the French is much diffused, and is often employed by their best authors. In the most southern parts, border- ing on Italy, the Valteline, and other territories acquired frum Milan, the Italian is the common tongue. Among the Grisons in Engadina, and in some other parts, is spoken what is called the llomauesli, which seems immediately derived from the Latin. The Vallais, or that part of Swisserland watered by the Rhone, has also a particular dialect: and at the city of Sion the French begins to be spoken, .is it is also the pre- valent language in that beautiful part of the can- ton of Berne called the Pays do Vaud. The language called the Vaudois, appears to have been confined to the valleys of Piedmont. . Education.] Travellers into Swisserland tes- tify their surprise at the knowledge generally pre- valent among the peasantry, so that there is reason to infer that this useful province is not neglected. There is an university of some repu- tation at Geneva, and another at Basil; with colleges at Berne, Zurich, and Lucerne. The chief cities and towns have been described before, in Count Stolberg's Travels, see above, p. 401. Commerce and Manofactuues.] Commerce and Manufactures do net much ilourish in this inland region. Cattle constitute the chief pru- djice of the country ; and some of th(( cheese forms an export of luxury. The chief linen ma- nufactures were at St. Gal. Printed cottons and watches, also form cousidcrable articles of sale, nor are silk mauufacturesuiiknown in Swisserland. Climate and Seasons.] The climate of Swis- a serlaiid is deservedly celebrated as laliibriuus anj delightful. Frum its southern position considcr- rable heat might be expected ; but this, thouirh suilicient to mature the grape, is attempered br the cold gules from the Alps and glaciers. Whoa the sun descends beyond Mount Jura, on a sum- nier evening, the Alpine summits long reOetttlie ruddy splendour, and the tal;cs for near an liotir assume the appearance of burnished gold. Tiie winter is however in some parts extremely severe ; and the summer heat, in the deep vales, sonie- tinies opprciisive. Face of the Country.] The face of (he country is generally mountainous, the most level parts being the Thergau, and a part of the can- tons of Basil, Berne, Zurich, Schaffhausen, Solcure, ;iJ Friburg. Even these present what in some countries would be called mountiiiiM, from two thousand to two thousand five hundred feet above the level of the sea. No country in the world exceeds Swisserland in diversity of ap- pearance. The vast chain of Alps, with enor- mous precipices, extensive regions of perpetual snow, and glaciers chat resemble seas of ice, are contrasted by the vineyard, and cultivated lield, the richly wooded brow, and the verdant and tranquil vale, with its happy cottages and crvstui stream. Count Stolbcrg, however, as iibove re- ferred to, gives an animated description of tlii.4 country, insomuch that little remains to be said, Zoology.] The horses of Swisserland are esteemed for vigoui and spirit ; and the r.ittle attain great size. Among the animals peculiar to the Alps, may be first named the ibex, or rock goat. This 'animal resembles the common goat ; but the horns of tlie male are extremely long and thick. It is more common on the Italian tbun mi the Swiss Alps. The hair is long, and ash ro- lonred, with a black list along the back. The ibex will mount a perpendicniar rock of fifteen feet at three spring-e Swiss mountains. In summer they Iceil on alpine plants, and live in societies, digging dwcilittgs in the ground for summer, and others for winter. About the beginning of October, having provided hay, they retreat to their holes, trhere they remain torpid till the spring. The (kin of this little animal is used for furs. The nsrinot may be tamed, and shews considerublu docility. The size is between that of tlie rabbit tnd the hare Among alpine birds may be named the vulture, called also the golden or bearded tulture. tt inhabits the highest alps, forming its nest in inaccessible rocks, and preying on the chamois, white hare, marmot, and some- times on kids and lambs. MiNERAtoGV.] The mineralogy of this inter- pittng countri is not so important as we might be led to infer mim its mountainons nature. Some of the streams wash down particles of gold. Copper and lead are also found: but the chief mines are those of iron, in the county of Sargans. In the carrton of Heme there are valuable qnar- ries of rock salt: and it is said that coal and na- tive sulphur arc not unknown. But the grand stores of minerals are in Piedmont and the I southern sides of the Alps. Rock crystal forms perhaps the chief etport of Swisserland, being sometimes found in such large pieces as to weigh seven or eight hirndred weight. The calcareous parts of the Alps often present beautiful marbles ;- and good slates arc not uncommon. As to gra- nite and porphyry, the country may be said to consist of them. Among the Alps are also found serpentines, asbestos, with jaspers, agat«i<, and various petrifactiont. Among the mincralogic curiosities may be named the adularia, or glassy • Nay, tlM mAontainf tbcmsclres will somctitnos burst, Md overwhelm whole town*, as happened in the memorable instance of Flours, near Chiavana, hi which thousands pc. rishi'd, and no' a vc!>tigc of a building wiis left : nor aru re. i\'tit in»fti'. jc«, thortgh lu!M tremcmlons, wholly nnknown. + As an example, the account which Uouriit (>i»e!* of tkat of the Rhianu, nay be selected. " At Icui^th wu per. cuivcd throu);ii the trees a mountain of ice, as splendid as tli(3sun, and Hashing a similar light on the environs. This first aspect of the glacier of tiie llhono inspired us with (tttt fxiwctaUon. A moment afterwards this enormous mats of ice having disappeared behind thick pines, it suun aftir met our sight between two vast blocks of rock, which formed a kind of portico. Surprised at the n)a<;Hiticeiice,of this'spectacle, and at its admirable contrasts, we beheld it wiih rapture. At length wc reached this be' iiliful portico, bpyond which we were to discover all the glacier. We ar- Inred: at this light one would suppose uucsclf in auoUier felspar, on the mountains of Adula, and the trc- molite, so called from mount Trcmola, near St. Gothard. Mineral Waters.] Of mineral waters, the most remarkable are those of Leuk. To the S. E. arc the baths of Alvenew, which are sul- phureous, and resemble Harrowgate water. Natural Curiosities] To enumerate the na- tural curiosities of Swisserland would be to de- scribe the country. The Alps, the glaciers, the Tast precipices, the descending torrents, the sources of the rivers, the beautiful lakes and ca- taracts, arc all natural curiositie- in}!. AUSTRIA. Austria has hitherto been considered as' tt part of Germany, but by the late wars on the con- tinent between the emperor of Germany and the French, the German empire has been much cuf^- tailed and dismembered, insomuch that but little remains under the dominion of the former id world, so ranch is the imaginatioa impressed with the na* tureand immensity of the objects. To form an idea of this superb spectacle, figure in your mind a scallolding of trnu. sparcnt ice, Clliiig a space of two miles, rising to the clouds, and darting flashc of light like the sun. Nof were the sr^ veral parts less maguiticeitt and surprising. Om mii^lit $e« as it Were the streetfi and buildings of u city, erected in the form of an amphitheatre, and embellished with pieces of water, cascades, and torrents. The effects were as prodi. gious as the immensity and the height; the most beautiful aeure, the most splendid white, the regular appearance of a thousand pyramids of ice, are more easy to be imagined than described. Such is the aspect of the glacier of th^ Rhone, reared by nature on a plan which she alone can execute: we admire the majestic course of a river, without suspoctint; that what gives it birth niid maintains its waterf majr bo still more mi^cstic and inagniticcut." comparisoa V. ''i\ k ll* ■ ;'IJ 812 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. conTpariiion of his vast territory before those .commotions. Bavaria, AVurtemberg, Westpha- lia, and Saxony, have been made separate king- doms: the title of emperor of Germany was dis- continued by order of the French emperor; and the sovereign of Germany vfai compelled to take that of emperor of Austria. By the last war .even the remains of royalty were threatened with dissolution, and there does not appear to be a shadow of a doubt but that the whole^of his do- minions would have been wrested from hini, had he not timely made a peace with the emperor Napoleon, who has since espoused the daughter of the emperor of Austria. The absolute limits of his present dominions, circumscribed as they are, have not yet fully reached us; the principal part, however, seems to be contained in Bohe- mia, Moravia^ Austria, Hungary, Transylvania, and a part of Poland. ITALY. . THE country of Italy has been so repeatedly described, that it has become familiar even to the common reader: this description shall therefore be restricted to very narrow limits. Italy being now made a separate kingdom, of which the emperor Napoleon is sovereign, we shall con- sider it as one nation, without regard to its former divisions. Boundaries, &c.] The boundaries of this country are deeply impressed by the hand of na- ture ; in the Adriatic and Mediterranean seas, and the grand barrier of the A4ps, which divide it from France, Swisserland, and Germany. The length of Italy from mount Rosa, the highest summit of the Italiai^ Alps, to the Cape di Lucca, is about six hundred and seventy British miles; while the medial breadth between the Adriatic and Mediterranean is about 'one hun- dred; but from the Adige, the recent limit of Austrian power, to the eastern frontiers of the new French departments of Liman and Mont Blanc (formerly Savoy), the breadth is about two huiiJred miles. The religion is the Roman Catholic. The present population of Italy, with the islands of Sicily and SaHinia, is about thir- teen millions. The manners, customs, and dia- lects arc various and discordant, though the ge- neral language be the Italian, esteemed the purest in Tuscany, while the enunciation is most perfect at Rome. Face of the Country.] Italy is decorated with noble architecture, and venerable remains of antiquity, amidst a climate generally serene though liable to violent rains. In the north the sublime scenery of the Alps is contrasted with the fertile plains, through which many streams flow into the Po. In the centre there are many marshes and standing waters, which occasion what is called the vml aria, or a pernicious dis- temperature of the air; but the varied ridge of I the Appenines, and the beautiful prospects of Florence and Tivoli, excite admiration. A great part of Naples is mountainous ; but the country beautiful ; yet in addition to the fiery eruptions of Vesuvius and Etna, it is exposed to the terrible effects of frequent earthquakes, and the enervating sirocco. Rivers.] Italy is intersected wiih rivers in almost every direction, of which the Po is by far the most large and extensive. This noble river, descending from the centre of the western Alps, passes to the N. E. of Saluzzo, by Ca- rignan, to Turin; receiving, even in this short space, many rivers, from the S. and from the ^. The other southern rivers are of far less conse- quence, but among them may be named the Trebbia, the river of Parma, and the Banaro, which joins the Po at Stellato, on the western frontier of the former territory of Ferrara. The course of the Po may be comparatively esti- mated at about three hundred British miles. The bed of the Po has in modern times been con- siderably raised, so that in many places banks of thirty feet in height are necessary to preserve the country from inundation. In the middle ages maritime combats took place on the Po, be- tween Venice and some of the inland powers. The other rivers of the north of Ita.y, are the Adige, the Brenta« the Piavi, and ^be Taglia- mento. In the centre first appears the Arno, which rises in the Apennines, and flows by Florence and Pisa into the gulph of Genoa. The Tiber is by far the most considerable in the middle, or south of Italy, rising near the source of the Arno, and passing by Rome, to the Mediterranean, which it joins after a course of about one hundred and fifty British miles. Lakes.] Italy contains 'many beautiful lukcs, particularly ASIA. 817 nartioularly in the northern part. The Lago Maggiore, Greater Lake, or lake of Locarno, is about twenty-«even British miles in length, by three uf medial breadth; and the shores abound with alpine beauties, receiving the waters of gome other lakes, among which miut be men- tioned that of Lugano on the east. Stili farther to the east is the lake of Como. which is joined by that of Jjecco: the lake of Como is about tliitty-two British miles in length, but the me- dial breadth not above two and n half. Yet I'trther'to th^^east'is the small lake of Isco, which jj followed by the i^oble Lago di Garda, nn ex- panse of about thirty British miles in length by eight in breadth. Mountains.] The most important mnuntaioH of Italy are the Alps, already described by Count Stolberg, in a former part of this work. Naples a«d Sicily.] This division comprises what Wits the kingdom of Naples and Sicily ; but Naples having been subdued by the f rench, is considered as part of the kingdom of Italy : Si- cily, being an island, is at present under its former sovereign, who has fixed his court at Palermo. The isles of Malta and Gozo arc of far more coiK°3quencc. They are rocky and barren, not producing grain sufficient for half the cousump- tioa of a thin population ; but may in the hands of the English prove a valuable acquisition. Malta is about fifty British miles in circum- ference, and is supposed to contain sixty thou- sand inhabitants. The isle of Gozo is about half the extent, and is rather fertile, the population being computed at three thousand. I The central part of Italy comprehends what was called the Dominions of the Church, (but the pope is now dethroned), and the grand duchy, now Jciugdom of T'.iscany; with a few diminutive states. The territory belonging to the pope reached from near Pesaro to beyond Terracina. Tuscany has long been celebrated for the arts; and Florence is regarded as the Athens of mo- dern Italv. Tuscany is about one hundred ari twenty British miles in length by ninety in breadth ; but in consequence of the French ascendancy in Italy, a prince of Spain wields bis tributary sceptre of Etruria under the pro- tection of the French empire. Tuscany is one nf the most beautiful and fertile regions of Italy, with a temperate and healthy chmate. It Vol. II. No. CXXV. abounds in corn and cattle, and produces ex- cellent wines and fruit. The manufactures of silk and velvet vrere formerly celebrated, and still maintain reputation. The mountains in the Siennese, or southern part of Tuscany, contain valuable ores of antimonv, copper which is wrought at Massa, and other metals, with slate and yellow marble. The serpentine of Im- pruncta, seven miles south from Florence, pre- sents beautiful varieties used in ornamental ar- chitecture. The Florentine marble is remark- able for picturesque reprcentations of ruins, &c. caused by the infiltration of iron between the lamina\ The Arno receives many small streams; and the Ombrone is a considerable river which pervades the Siennese. i ASIA. Extent.] This great division of the earth extends in length from the Hellespont to the East Cape ; that is from twenty-six degrees east from London, to near one hundred and ninety degrees of east longitude; being no less than (taking the degree at a medial latitude) six thousand fi' ": hundred geographical miles. From the southf . n cape of Malacca to the cape of Cevero Vostochnoi, on the Arctic Ocean, (he breadth extends from about two degrees of northern latitude to about seventy-seven degrees, or nearly four thousand five hundred geogra- phical miles. If, for the sake of a rude and merely comparative calculation, one sixth part be added for the dift'crence between the statute and geographical mile, the length of Asia in British miles would be about seven thousand iive hundred and eighty-three, and the breadth five thousand two hundred and fifty. Asia is limited, on the east, by a strait which divides it from America, and which, in honour of the discoverer, is called Beering's Strait. The northern and southern boundaries are the Arctic and Indian Oceans, in which last many large islands, particularly that of New Hol- land, now styled by some Australasia, aflords a vast additional extent to this quarter of the globe. Original Population.] The population of Asia is allowed to be primitive and original; if »ve except that of the Techuks or Tchuktchi, i) A who ill M' i Mm Ir '. Ij '. > :.''l! ! i I 'I m , i m I »ti ' 1 «1« geoghapfhcal description of the world. -who are supposed to have passed from thn op- posite coast of Amctica. A few colonies have migrated from Russia to the northern parts, as far as tlic see^ of Kamchatka; and there are viell known European settlements in lliudostan and the isles to the S. E. ; but the lirst serious attempt to colonize what is esteemed a part of Asia vi'as the recent settlement at Port Jackson. ^Vith these and other triQing exceptions. Asia presents a prodigious original population. After the discovery of America and the Cape of Good Hope, the maritime parts and islands of Asia were successively disclosed. Yet the recent voyages of the Rus<;iau navigators, of 4)ur immortal Cook, and ot the unfortunate La Pcrousc, evince that much remained to be done; and concerning the interior of Siberia scarcely any solid information arose, till Peter the Great, ai'ter the battle of Pultowa, sent many Swedish prisoners into that region; and Strahlenberg, one of the oOicers, published an account of Siberia. This knowledge was greatly improved and in- creased by the well known genius of Pallas, and others. Yet our knowledge of Asia is far from being perfect, especially in respect to Daouria, and other regions near the confines between the Russian and Chinese empires; not to mention central Asia in general, Tibet, and some more southern regious; nor had even the geography of Hindostan been treated with tolerable accu- racy, till Major Reunell published his map and memoir. Seas.] Asia is washed by a part of the Me- diterranean, the Red Sea, the Arabian Sea, and gulph of Persia; the bays of Bengal and Nankin ; and other gulphs, which diversify the coasts. The Red Sea, or the Arabian gulph, consti- tutes the grand natural division between Asia and Africa; but its advantages have chicHy been felt by the latter, which is entirely dost' '-16 of other inland seas. The Red Sea extends about twenty-one degrees, or one thousand four hun- dred and seventy British miles. The Persiiin Gulf is about half the length of the former, being the grand receptacle of thobe eclebrated rivers the Euphrates and the Tigris. The Caspian Sea, which is entirely inland, extends about ten degrees, or seven hundred miles in length, and is from one hundred to two hundred in breadth. To the cast, this remark- 6 able sea is supposed to have extended, at no very remote period, to the lake of Aral; the deserlj on that side presenting the same features as those to the north, though there be now an elevated level between the Sea of Aral and the Casjiian. The northern shores are low and swampy, often overgrown with reeds ; but in many other parts the coasts are precipitous, with such deep water that a line of four hundred and fifty fathoms will not reach the bottom. This sea is the receptacle of many important rivers. About one hundred miles to the east of the Caspian, is the Sea or Lake of Aral, which h about two hundred miles in length, and about seventy "miles in breadth, receiving the river Sirr or Sihon, and the river Gihon, the Oxus of an- tiquity, both streams of considerable course, flowing from the mountains of Belur Tag, or Imaus. The Sea of Aral, being surrounded with sandy deserts, has been little explored; but it is salt, like the Caspian, and there are many small saline lakes in the vicinity. I Another remarkable detached sea is that of I Baikal, in Siberia, or Asiatic Russia, extending [ from about the fifty-first to the fifty-fifth degree of I north latitude, being about three hundred and [ fifty British miles in length, but its greatest breadth not above thirty-five. The water is fresh and transparent, yet of a green or sea| tinge, commonly frozen in the latter end of De- cember, and clear of ice in May. The Baikal I is, at particular periods, subject to violent and unaccountable storms, whence, as terror is the parent of superstition, probably springs the Russian name of Svetoie Mor(^, or the Holy Sea, There are many seals, and abundance of tish, particularly a kind of herring called onmli. Se\e-[ ral islands appear, and that of Olchon has sul- phureous springs. The chief river flowing inio the Baikal is the Selinga, from the south, while from the north it emits the Angara, which joins | the prodigious stream of the Yenisei. Of the other Asiatic seas a minute account I would be superfluous ; but a few observations may be offered on the remarkable strait which divides Asia from America. This strait, which was discovered by Beering, and afterwards by Cook, is about forty miles in breadth. Beerin^r, a Dane, was employed by Peter the Great, in 17^8, and actually passed this strait, probably [ in the usual fogs of the climate, without dii^ covering I TUKKEY IN ARIA. ,') 819 covering land to the cast ; but our great navi- ga«or gave the name of the Danish adventurer to (licse straits, when he afterwards explored them vith his usual accuracy. On the Asiatic shore is the East Cape, and on the American that called Prince of Wales. The depth of the strait is from twelve to thirty fathoms. To the north of these straits the Asiatic shore tends rapidly to the westward ; while the American proceeds nearly in a northern direction, till, at the distance of about four or five degrees, the continents are Joined hy solid and impenetrable bonds of ice. TURKEY IN ASIA. \ Extent.] Asiatic Turkey extends from the jhores of the Egean Sea, or Archipelago, to the conlincs of Persia ; a space of about one thousand and lifty British miles. The boundaries towards Persia are rather ideal than natural, though somewhat marked by the mountains of Ararat and Elwend. In the north the 'I'urkisli territo- ries are now divided from the Russian by the river Cuban, and the chain of Caucasus ; in the south they extend to the junction of the Tigris I and the Euphrates, which last river, for a con- liderable space, divides the Turkish possessions from those of the Arabs. From the river Cuban to the junction of the Tigris and Euphrates, is about one thousand one hundred British miles. Divisions.] This extensivA territory is di- Uided into nine or ten provinces. Natolia, the most westerlv, is followed by Karaman in the suiifh, and Roum, in the north-east. To the iDinili of Armenia arc Guria, or Guriel, Min- plia, ami the Ahkhas of Caucasus, the ancient Circassians. Armenia is also styled Turcomania ; jiu the south of which are Kurdistan, and Irak lArabi, a part of ancient Persia around the ccle- Ibratcd capital, fiagdad. The ancient IVlesopo- Itamia, between the Tigris and the Euphrates, Idow partly corresponds with the province of Al- Igezira ; and the classical name of Syria, or Soria, lis still allotted to the celebrated countries along |lhe eastern extremities of the Mediterranean. Antiquities.] The most splendid ruins are Jthose of Palmyra, or Tadmor in the Desert, about lotic hundred and fil'ty miles S. E. of Aleppo, at Ihe northern extremity of the sandy wastes of Vrabia. Baibec, the ancient Heliopolis, is about fifty miles to the N. W. of Damascus, the most re- markable ruin being that of a temple, supposed to have been dedicated to the sun. The Turkish empire in Asia is estimated at four hundred and seventy thousand, four hun- dred square miles, and the population at ten millions ; which, allowing eight for the Eu- ropean part, will render the total eighteen millions. Manners and Customs.] In general the most striking feature of manners and customs, in the Turkish empire, is, that half the people may be considered as somewhat civilized, wliile the other half are pastoral wanderers, ranging over extensive wastes. This laxity of government renders travelling in Asia Miii(»r very unsafe, and has proved a great impediment to any exact geographical knowledge of these regions. Under a prudent government, the wandering iiordes of Turcomans and Kurds woxild be expelled ; and regular troops and garrisons maintained on the frontiers; when industry and the arts might again visit this territory. Climate and Seasons.] The climate of Asia Minor has always been considered as excellent. There is a peculiar softness and serenity in the air, not perceivable on the European side of the Archi- pelago. The heat of the summer is tempered by the numerous chains of high mountains, some of which are said to be covered with perpetual snow. Face or the Country.] ^.The general appear- ance of Asiatic Turkey may be regarded as mountainous; but intermingled with large and beautiful plains, which, instead of being covered with rich crops of graii, are pastured by the numerous flocks and herds of the Turcomans. The soil, as may be expected, is extremely va- rious ; but that of Asia Minor is chiefly a deep clay; and vvlieat, barley, and durra, form the chief products of agriculture. But excellent grapes and olives abound ; and the southern pro- vinces are fertile in dates. In Syria the agricul- ture is in the most deplorable condition. The peasants, though not sold with the soil. Like those of Poland, are, if possible, yet more op- pressed; harley bread, onions, and water, form- ing their constant fare. Rivers.] The principal river of Asiatic Turkey is the Euphrates, which rises fr(..n the mountains of ArtncMia, a few miles to the N. I?," of Erzeron : and ciucfly pursues a S. W, dir.;c- tion I'l i:.\ i I '4 I ir 820 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTIO'N OF THE WORLD. (ion to Scmisat, where it wotild fall into tie Mo- ditcrraneKi), if not pre\^enle.rt hv a high ixi^e of iiioMutftins *. At Seiuisat, the unciunt Samosata, this noble river assiinioH a southerly direction; then runs an extensive course to the S. E. and aftor receiving the Tigris, falls bv two or three mouths into the Giilph of Persia. The comparative course of the Fjiiphrat«'s may be esti- mated at about one thousand four hundred Bri- tish milrs. Next in imporfancc is the Tigris, which rises to the north of the Medan, about one hundred and fifty milts south from the sources of the Kuphralcs, and pursues nearly a regular direc- tion S. E. till it joins the Euphrates below Kornn, about sixty miles to the north of Das- sora ; after a comjiarntive course of about eight hundred miles. The Eu|)hrtttes and the Tigris arc both navigable u considerable distance from the sea. TIk; third river in Asiatic Turkey is thet called by the Turks Kizil Iriuuk, rising in mount Taurus, not far from Erekli, but by other ac- counts uumo to the east, and pursuing a winding ■course (o the north, nearly across the whole of Asia Minor^ till it joins the Eiixinn Sea on the "west of the gulf of Sansoun. The river Sicuria, the ancient Sangarius, or Saugaris, rises about fifty miles to the south of Angora, and running to the N. >V. joins the Euxine, about seventy miles to the easit of Conrtantinoplc. Lakes.] Asiat^Turkey also contains nume- rous lakes. ThatW Van,- in the north of Kur- distan, is the most remarkable, being about eighty British miles in length, from N. E. to S. W. and about forty in breadth : it is said to abound with fish. In Syria what is called the Dead Sea, may be regarded as a lake of about fifty miles in length, and twelve or thirteen in breadth. The lake of Rarkuma^ to the south of Hilla, and the ancient Babylon, is about thirty miles in lengthy and liows into the Euphrates. Mountains.] Many of the mountains of Asiatic Turkey deserve particular attention, from their ancient celebrity. The first rank is due to the Taurian chain of antiquity, which was con- * In this part of its course tlio Euphrates is joined by the Morad from the cast, a stream almost doubling in length tliat of Euphrates; so that the latter river might sidered as extending from the neighbourhood of the Archipelago to (he sources of the Ganireg and the extremities of Asia, so fur as diHcuvcrej by the ancients. The Caucatiian mountains lia\c been well delineated by the Russian travclleis, uJ forming a range from the mouth of the river Cuban, in the N. >V. to where the river Kur| entcrsthe Caspian, in the S. E. Towards the east of Armenia is Ararat, a dc-l tached mountain, with two summits, the liighrsH being eternally covered with snow. In one of the ilanks is an abyss, or precipice, of prodigious! depth, the sides being perpendicular, and of a| rough black appearance, as if tinged with snidke. This mountain belongs to Persia, but is hercl mentioned on account of connexion. In Syria the most celebrated mountain is tliatj of Lebanon, orLibanus, runniiigin thesouthrrlyl and northerly directionofthe Mediterraneun shore,! and generally at thedistanceof about thirty or i'ortyl miles. The Anti-Libanus is a short (ic^nchedl chain, running nearly parallel on the cast. 'Yhaa mountains are of considerable height, the suniJ mits being often covered with snow. F0REST.S.] The numerous mountains in Asiaticl Turkey arc often clothed with immense fu;cdjOB pines, oaks, beeches, elms, and other trceJ The southern shores of the Black Sea also preseull many gloomy forests of great extent. The uhuud-l auce of timber supplies the inhabitants with fuen nor has pit coal been explored in any part o| Asiatic Turkey. Zoology ] The best horses in Asiatic Turkejl arc of Arabian extract, and arc sparingly fed willj a little barley and minced straw, to accuiitoi^ them to abstinence and fatigue ; but mules am asses are in more general use. In Asiatic Turkey appears that king of fe| rocious animals the lion : yet he rarely roamsti the west of the Euphrates : but Tournefort obj .^'rved many tygers on Mount Ararat. He iiiiii mean the small tyger, or perhaps the leopardj for the royal or large tyger seems to be restriclj to the wastes of Llindostan. The hya;pa andlU wild boar arc known animals of Asia-Minoi together with troops of jaokals, which rail dreadful cries in the night. The cities and ti| more justly be said to spring from mount Ararat, alK one hundred and sixty British miles to the cast of thci putcd tiouroo. laa TURKEY IN ASIA. 821 Itrres svrarih with dogs, which are allowed to grander, as ai conitant deienoe against strangers or f nfniics. The ibex, or rock goat, appears on the suin- oiits of Caiirasus. The common antelope is also ,1) inhabitant of Asia Minor, with numerous (jeers and hares. The partridges are generally of llie red legged kind, about a third larger than the common European. ISLANDS BELONGING TO ASIATIC TURKEY. The chief islands in the Archipelago, con- sidered as belonging to Asia, are M} tilene, Scio, Saraos, Cos, and Rhodes. Mjtilene, the ancient Lesbos, is the most northerly and largest of these isles, being about forty British miles in length, by twenty-four at iU greatest breadth. The mountainous appear- ance of this i«le is agreeably diversified with buys and inlets of the sea, and plantations of olives, vines, and myrtle. There are hot baths issuing from clifl's resembling those of St. Vin- cent near Bristol, and which indicate the isle to [ be chiefly calcareous. The climate is exquisite: ind it was anciently noted for wines, and the I beauty of tht* ■*>omen. > il : • Scio, the ancient Chios, is about thirtyrsix British miles in length, but only about thirteen I ill medial breadth. The Chian wine is celebrateu by Horace, and retains its anrient fame. The town of Scio, on the cast side of the is!e, is bandsome and convenient. The Greeks here enjoy con»iderabki freedom and ease; and dis- play such industry that the country resembles a garden. This particular favour arises from the cultivation of the mastic trees, or rather shrubs, for they are small evergreens which supply the giini,|r80 acceptably to the ladies of the seraglio. The whole isle is mountainous. Opposite to Scio, on the Asiatic shore, is Chesme, where the Tui^ish fleet was destroyed by the Russians, 1770. The inhabitants'of Scio are supposed to be about (lixty thousand. Saraos is about thirty miles long, and ten Ibroad. This isle is crossed by a chain of hills, land the most agreeable part is the plain of Cora. iTournefort con»pute« the inhabitants at twelve thousand, all Creeks with a Turkish Aga or Lilitary ofticer, and a cadi or judge. The pot- VoL.lI. No.CXXV. tery of Samos was anciently excellent; but at present most branches of industry are neglected. Pitch is prepared from the pine trees in the north part of the island, and the silk, honey, and wax are esteemed. Most of the mountains are of white marble, and swarm with game of various descriptions. The best haven is that of Vati to the N. ^V. Some remains are observed of the celebrated temple of Juno. Cos is about twenty-four miles long, by three or four broad ; but has been little visited by modern travellers. Pliny styles Cos a most noble isle ; and from it was first derived the name and substance of the whetstone. It is now covered with groves of lemon trees. Its chief trade is in oranges and lemons ; and Cos is the residence of a Turkish Pasha. Rhodes is about thirty-six British miles in length, by fifteen in breadth, an isknd cele- brated in ancient and modern times. It is fertile ill wheat, though the soil be of a sandy nature. The population is computed at about thirty thousaiK'. The city of the same name,.in which no Christian is now permitted to dwell, stands in the north end of the isle; and was anciently noted for a colossus in bronze, about ope hun- dred and thirty feet high. - Along the southern shore of Asia. Minor there are some small isles, among which is that of Castel Rosso, S. £. of Patira. But they are of no moment when compared with the large and celebrated island of Cyprudjivhich is about one hundred and sixty British iJnles in length, and about seventy at its greatest breadth. The soil is fertile, yet agriculture is neglected. The chief products are silk, cotton, wines, turpen- tine, and timber. The wine of Cyprus is de- servedly celebrated. The oranges are excellent; and the mountains are covered with hyaciiitha aiiU anemonies, and other beautiful flowers. Cjprus is supposed to have derived iU name from the abundance of copper ore ; and it is said to have produced gold, silver, and emeralds. What is called the Paphian diamond is a rock crystal, found near Paphos ; and there is a quarry of amsanthiis, while several hills consist chiefly of talc. The other mineral productions are red jasper, agates, and umber. The Cy- priots ate a tall and elegant race; but the chief beauty of the women consists in their sparkling eyes. To the disgrace of the Turkish goverrt- 9 B yeramcQt ");1 U imk t j'im\ 82S GEOGPAPHICAL DESCRIPTION Of THE WORLD, A \ktntaent (fie ftbpiiltftibri of ih'n extemive island u computed at fifty thiiusund souU! Cyprus is pervaded by A cbbin of mountains, ainon^ which IS a third Olympus, some priiiiitive name, which seems tu have been general fur a mountain of great height. Thcrd is not one river in the island that continues its course in the summer ; but there are many ponds, lakes, and ferts, pro- ducing a damp and malignant air. Thte chief cities are Nicosia, the capital And rcsidiebce of the governor, and Famagusta; ASIATIC RUSSIA. E'XTEiJT,] This large portion of the globe extends almost the whole length of Asia, from about the fiflty-seventh degree of longitude east of London to more than one hundred and ninetj degrees. As the northern latitude is very high, the degree shall only be assumed at thirty miles, and the length may thus be computed at about four thousand geographical miles. The greatest breadth from Cape CeVero Vostochnoi, to the Altaian chain of mountains on the south of tife sea of Baikal, may be twenty-eight degrees or one thousand six hundred and eighty geogra- phical miles. In British miles {\it length may be roughly cOidpAted at four tbousat^d fiVti hun> dred and. seventy ; and the breadth at one thou- sand nine hundred^nd sixty, an ektcnt vrbich yi\\\ be found tO exiMd that of Europe. Boundaries.] Th6 farthest eastern b6und«ry is that of Asia, and the seas of Katnchatka and Ochotsk; while the northern is the Arctic Ocean. On the west the frontiers correspond wftIV thdSe between Asia arid Europe. The river Cuban, part; of the Caucasian cl^ain, and airi ideal line, divide the Russian territory frora.Tutkey and Persia. The boundary then ascend)9 along the north of the Caspian through the stepp or de- sert of Issira, and the cistern shore of the river Ob, to where it issues from the Altkian moon- fains, when it meets the va'st cmpirt of China ; and proceeds along that chain to the sources of the Onon, where it includes a considerable re- gion called DaOuria, extending about two hun- dred miles in breadth, to the south of the moun- tains called Yftblonny; the limit between Russia fend Chinese iTatary being partly aa ideal Une; 1 and partly the river Argoon, which, joined Avjth the Onon eonttitates (he great river Amur, Thence the boundary returns to the mountaii)ou» chain, and follows a branch bf ii to a proinou- tory on the north of the mouth of (he Amur. Antiquities.] The most curious antiquities seem to be the stone tombs which abound in some stepps, particularly near the river Y'enesei representing in rude sculpture human facts' camels, horsemen with lances, and other ob- jects. Here are foumf, besides human ixmes, those of horses and oxen, with fraguicnlg of pottery and ornaments of driess: Religion.'] The Grecian systenq of the Ckris- tian faith, which is embtaced by the Rnssians, has made inconsiderable progress in their Asiatic pomessions. Many of the Tatar tribes in the S. W. are Mohammedans; and others follow tlio superstition of Dalai I^iBa. But the more eastern Tatars are generally addicted to the Shaman religion, a system chiefly founded m\ the self-etistencb of matter, a spiritual world, and the general restitution of all things. Population.] The population of Siberia can- not be computed at afaove three millions and a half; so that Europe can in future have little to apprehend from tne Tataric awarms. Small Russian colonies have been estftbUshed in several of the di^,.int) provmcet and islea. < MAit^SRt And Customs.] The manners and customs of Asiatic Rinsia vary with the nu- merous tribes by whooi that extensive region it peopled. The Tatars, properly so called, are the most numerous, not only remaining in their ancient kingdomf of Sibivy but eonsiitutiug inaay other tribes in (be west, as the Nogays, the Kirguses or Kaizaks, the Bashkirs, and other tribes as far as the sources of the river Ob. Next in importance are the Monguls, of whom one tribe, the Kalmuks. arc found to the west uf the Caspian ; while the otliers, called Bursts, Torgnts, &e. are ehicfly around tlie sea of Baikal. Yet farther t» the east are the Mand- shurs, or Tunguses. Such are the three ttr dically distinct divisions qf men, whom former European ignorance classed umler the general name of Tartars. The manners of the Tatare^ who are the same people with the ancient Huns, are minutely de^ scribed by those authoi*t who have delioeated the I fall ASlATtC RUSSIA. 82» kli of the R(^rd«ii empirei prior to v»hich pe- rjod they fleein to have been absolutely unkiiot^n. I The manners of the Monq^uls of the RuMian Ifnp'nf, vrho are wholly Nomadic, nnd their l^rdt consist df horses, camels, oxen, sheep, jind goats. The women tan leather, dig the Llinarv roots, {irepare the winter provisions, Lried oV sailed, and distil the koumiss, or spirit Igf marc's milk. The men hunt the numeious IbeiitR Artd game that roam through tho vast Ivilds. Their tents are formed of a kind of Ifell, and in some parts they erect liHle temples, lind the priests have also wooden hovels arotiiid Ijlie temples. The Kalitiuks are divided into llbree ranks; the nobility, whom they call white iDTieg; the common people, who are bond-men, jad termed blAck bones; and the clergy, de- Kctiding from both, who are free. In like naiiacr the noble ladies arc called white flesh, ud the common people black flesh ; but the digrees are only reckoned by the bones. The Dvrer of the Tnidnhn, or chief prince, con- jiitsinthe number and opulence of his sjubject^, irritory bciYig of no estimation in so wide a ie»ion. These snhjycts form an Oluns, divided |it9 imftA'*, from one hundred and fifty ttt three tindred families, each linak bving commanded IV a Saissun, or mible. If there be a great Ln, or emperor, the jirinces are only guided him iu uHairs of general importance. The Ifibiite is about a tenth part of the cattle and Wr property; but, on the first summons, every Lin must appear on horseback before the prince, (bi) dismisses tbo!>e who are unfit for the fa- ifues of war. The weoiprtns ate bows, lances, sahres, and su*metime!< (irc-arnis; and the |rh warriors are clothed iu mail of interwoven bg!, hke that used in Europe till the fifteenth knlury. But they cannot oppose regular ar- m, and are apt even to disorder those of their lies [The iVfonguls are rather short in stature, with visace, "mall (»bli que eyes*, tliick lips, and I short chin, with a scanty beard; the hair Buk, and the complexion of a reddish or Icllowish brown ; but that of the women is clear, hd of a healthy white and red. They have sur- I* The eye ascending towards the templet, like the uoew, seems a peculiar feature of the Mooguls and prising quickness of sight and apprehension, and are docile, hospitable, beneficent,, active, and voluptuous. Industry is a virtue entirely female, yet great, and accompanied with perpetual cheer- fulness. Their religious books are in the dialect ofTangut, or Tibet, and there is a schoolmaster in every imiik, who imparts moro knowledge to tho boys than would be expected. Animal food is abundant, and sometimes mixed with vogcfable, while the general drink is water ; but they some- times indulge in sour milk, prepared after the Tatarian manner, butter-milk, and koumiss ; but mead and brandy are now greater favourites. When pasturage begins to fail, the whole tribes, strike their tents, generally from ten to fifteen times in the year, proceeding in tho summer to the northern, and in the winter to the southera wilds. The hordn, men, wpmen, aud children, form a regular procession, and are followed by the girls, singing with harmony and spirit. The; amusements of these jovial wanderers consist in ruuninu; races on horseback, in which even the> girls excel ; archery, wrestling, pantomime, dances, and the songs of the younp^ women, generally ac- companied by the lute, viol, and pipe, the themes of their ditties being gigantic tales of chivalry, and amorous adventures and sentiments; but the melody is harsh and dismal. Cards are not un- known, but chess is the favourite game. Lawodage.] The languages of all these origi- nal nations are radically different ; and among the Tunguses, Mongols, and Tatars, (here are some slight traces of literature : and not a few manuscripts in their several languages. Cities and Towns.] In Asiatic Russia the principal city is Astracan, at the month of the Volga, which is supposed to contain seventy thousand inhabitants. Astracan is built on seve- ral small hills, that rise amid the meadows of the Volga. The fortress on the west is triangu- lar, but the walls of the city are neglected. The wooden houses have exposed it to frequent con- flagrations, and attempts have been vainly made to enforce the use of brick. The Armenians, Lutherans, and Papists, have their places of worship ; and even the Hindoos have been per- mitted to erect a temple. The chief trade o^ Mandshurs. The Tatar eye is small, but strait, or hori. zontal. AstraciaD li: !:> \\l ; it I- ,1 " % \ I I ^ I- j'.i y ^4^ GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIFTIOM OF THE WORLD. •> Aatracan it tnifttt anH fitli, particulirly ttuffgeon and kvviar,! fcom tbe Votgai ; tod it alio attracU ■orae portion Jof oriental commeice. M idvuFACTVRRs.] There are loine nMOufac- turet, particularly in leather, at Astracan ; and ■alt ia prepared there, and in teveral other placet in Aiiatic Russia. Iiinglau is chie6y manufac- tured on the shores of the Caspian, from th« sounds or air bladder of the sturgeon, and (he beluga. Kaviar is the salted roe of large fish. There is a considerable fabric of nitre, about forty aailes to the north of Atitrncan. The T atars and Bashkirs make felts of a large size, some of vhich are exported. .The Russia leather ia chiefly fabricated in the European provinces, be- ing tanned with willow bark, and afterwards atained. Shagreen is prepared from the hides of horses or asses, but only a particular part of the back is fit fur this purpose; and the grain is given with the hard seeds of the greater orach, pressed into the leather while moist. Pitch ia made by the boora from the pines of Siberia. Near the Uralian mountains are several manufac- tures in iron and copper. Climate and Seasons.] Through the greater part of Siberia, the moat southern frontiers being about fifty degrees, while the northern ascenda to seventy-eight degrees, the general climate may more Justly be regarded as frigid than temperate; being, in three quarters of the country, on a level with that of Norway and Lapland, untem- pered by the galea of the Atlantic. To the south o£ the sea of Baikal the climate parallels that of Berlin and the north of Germany* at^ that the finest and most fertile regions in middle Asia be- long to the Chinese. The chains of high moun- tains, which form the southern boundary of these provinces, also contribute to increase the cold; and the sea of Baikal is comntonly entirely frozen from December till May. The finest climate in these eastern parts seems to be that of Daouria, or the province around Nershinsk ; and the nu- merous toVvns on the Amur evince the great supe- riority of what is called Chinese Tatary, which it comparatively a fertile and temperate region. The cbange of the seasons is very rapid ; the long ivtnter ia almost instantaneously succeeded by a warm spring, and the quickness and luxuriance 4if the vegetation exceed description. Boil and Agriculture.] Many parts of Siberia are totally ia€ap*bl««r. •grirultiirc : but I in the «outbern and weatera diklricts the soil j, j remarkably fartile. Toward the north of Koly. van barley generally yields nare than tweh.; fold and oats commonly twtsnty fold. Buck wheat, la thia black light mould, is apt to run intu itulk but aown in the pooreat apota, yielda fruui twelve to fifteen fold. Rivers.] Some of the largest rivers of Atia I belong to the Russian empire, nearly equalling in the length of their course any others uii ihe globe. The Ob, including its wide estuary, may be said to hold a comparative course of one (liou-1 sand nine hundred British miles, while that of the^enesei is about one thousand seven hundn 1 1 and fifty, and that of the Lena oue thousuad five] hundred and seventy. In the su ne mode of men* suration the Hoan Ho of the Chinese will, in jul wandering progress, exceed the Ob ; while the] Kian Ku, pervading the centre of China, mavl be traced, if the Purticho be included, for A length of about two thousand three bnndrcdl luilea ! Lares.] In the north of Siberia the most con- 1 aiderable lake ia that of Piazinsko. In the gonthl the aea of Baikal ia freah. Between the river Obi and the Irtish is a large lake, about halftliel length of the Baikal, or oqe hundred and scvcntyl miles in length, divided by an island into two partsf called the lakes of Tchany and Soumy. In ihid ouarterthere are man^v amaller lakea,and o(hir«to| the north of the Caspian, some of which arc salt,! , particularly that of Bo«lo. I Forests.] Asiatic Ruuia is so abundant ia] forests, that particular; names have not beca assigned to so vast an extent. On the v/ed oA the government of Irkutsk an enormous darkl and marshy forest of resinous trees extendH to tliej river Kan. .The northern and eastern parts off Siberia are bare of wood ; the Norway iir iiotl being fuiind farther north than lat. sixty degrmJ while the silver fir does not exceed lat, fiftyei;.'lit| degrees. In Europe, on the contrary, the Sor-T way fir forms extensive forests in Lapmark, vm in the arctic circle. Stepps.] These are extensive level plains, m appearance of nature almost peculiar to AsiiJ and some parts of European Russia : but smiie] what similar to the sandy deserts of Africa, Tin stepps are- not so barren of vegetation^ beioj IllUilli I'il I t j; ■ ■ i lit 1> Hi i! m. !' \ 1. ,,5 ^ I' '!! /MM'M'l'K \\.,/H uy '//A- t; i'(:i?f:iCwS:E, .f f.Uhn^-M ^•. •X % ^^s . ^^»i^'- h ■1 i If 'F ' ul *T' .■ ;,[■ m If |iaiii f 1 S'l ti I ir TH liic cor J British ■ thirty Chir ^Q the ibout Vol THF. CHINESE EISIPIRE. 825 BOstly only sandy, with scattered patches of Ihin rrais, and at \vide intervals a stunted thicket. Between the mouths of the Don and Volga is a gtepp which resembles the bed of a sea; with ipots of salt, and saline lakes, being entirely destitute of fresh water and wood. On the eastern side of the Volga begins an extensive stepp, which reaches about seven hun- dred British miles from E. to W. ; and, in- cluding Issim, nearly as far from N. to S. but on the N. of the Caspian the breadth does not eiceed two hundred and twenty. This stepp of Barabin, N. W. of Omsk, is about four huadred miles in length, and three kundred in breadth, containing a few salt lakes, but in general of a good black soil, interspersed trith forests of birch. Mineralogy.] The mineralogy of Siberia displays many singular and interesting objects. The chief gold mines of Siberia are those of Catherinenburg, or Ekaterioenburg, on the east of the Urnlian mountains, about lat. fifty-seven degrees, where an oflicc for the management of tbe mines was instituted in 1719. The mines of nrious sorts ezteod to a considerable distance on Ihe N. and S. of Catherinenburg ; and the foun- dries, chiefly for copper and iron, are computed at oae hundred Mid five. But the gold mines of Beresof, in this vicinityr were of little conse- quence till the reign of Elizabeth. The mines of Nemhinsk, discovered in ITOl-, are principally of lend, mixed with silver and gold ; and those of koiyvau, chiefly in theSchlangenberg, or moun- tain uf serpents, so called by the German miners, begun to be worked for the crown in 1748. The &:old i»8ometNnes found native, but gene- rally niiDglcd with various sifbstances> particu- larly silver. Besides the copper mines in the Uralian moun- I tains, there are also some in tliose of Altai. The CHINESE EMPIRE. THE utmost extent of the Chinese empire may Ibe considered as four thousand nine hundred 1 British mUes \ong, and nearly twa thousand and |thirty British miles broad. China Proper extends from Ihe Great "Wall \in the north, to the Chinese Sea in the south, about one thousand one hundred and forty Vol. II. No.CXXVI. geographical, or one thousand three hundred and thirty British miles. The breadth, from the s'liores of the Pacific to the frontiers of Tibet, may be computed at eight hundred and eighty- four geographical, or nearly one thousand and thirty British miles. In square miles the con- tents hiave been estimated at one million two hun- dred and ninety-seven thousand nine hundred and ninety-nine, and in acres at eight hundred and thirty millions, seven hundred and nineteen thou- sand, three hundred and sixty. Ou the east and south the boundaries are maritime, and to the north they are marked by tbe Great Wall and the desert of Shamo. Antiquities.] Among the remains of Chi' nese antiquity may be mentioned the pagodas, of ornamented towers, sometimes erected in com- memoration of great events ; many temples, which are low buildings of a diOerent construc- tion from the pagodas; and some triumphal' arches, which boast considerable antiquity. But tin: chief remain of ancient art in China- is that stupendous wall, extending across- the northern boundary. This work, which is de- servedly esteemed among tbe grandest lahour» of art, is conducted over the summits^of high moun- tains, some of which rise to the height of five- tbousand two hundred and twenty-five feet, across the deepest vales, over wide rivers by means of arches; and in many parts is doubled or trebled to command important pa8ses> and at the dis- tance of almost every hundred yards is a tower or massy bastion. The e&tent is computed at one- thousand five hundred miles;, but in- some ports- of smaller danger it is not equally strong nor complete, and towards the N. W. is only a ram- part ofearth. Near Koopeko the wall is twenty- five feet in height, and at the top about fifteen^- feet thick : some of the towers, which are square, are forty-eight feet high, and about fifty feetr wide. The stone employed in the foundations, angles, &c. is a strong grey granite ; but th& greatest piirt consists of blueisb bricks, and the mortar is remarkably pure and white. Religion.] According to Du Halde the an- cient Chinese worshipped asupreme being, whom^ they stiled Chang Ti, or Tieu, which is said to imply the spirit whi6h presides ever the heavens ; but in the opinion of others, is only the visible- firmament. They also worshipped subalteriv spirits, who presided over kingdoms, provinces, 9 C citie9> ^ irl] i l;b' 926 GFOGUAPHICAL DESmiPTlON OF THE WORLD. ■cities, rivers, and mountains. Under this sys- tem, which corresponds with what is called Sha- manism, sacrilices were oU'ered on the summits of hills. About A. D. 65, the sect of Fo was intro- duced into China from Ilindostan. The name was derived from the idol Fo, (supposed to be the Boodh of Hindostan, ) and the chief tenets are those of the Hindoos, among which is the metempsichosis, or transition of souls from one animal to another. The priests are denominated Bonzes, and Fo is supposed to be gratified bjr the favour shown to his servants. Many sub- ordinate idols are admitted ; but as the Jesuits found the followers of Fo the most adverse to Christianity, they have absurdly enough called them Atheists. Population.] The population of China has been a topic of considerable debate ; but it is probable, from the calculation in NeuhofT's Tra- vels.that the population isabout two hundred and thirty millions ; and not three hundred and thirty three millions, as calculatedbv Sir GeorgeStaunton. Manners and Customs.] In visiting the sea ports of China, foreigners have been commonly impressed with the id«aof fraud and dishonesty; but it is to be supposed that these bad qualities are not so apparent where there are fewer tempta- tions. The indolence of the upper classes, who are even fed by their servants, aud the nastiness of the lower, who eat almost every kind of ani- mal, iu whatever way it may have died, are also striking defects, though the latter may be occa- sioned by necessity in so populous a country. To the same cause may be imputed the exposition of infants. On the other hand, the character of the Chinese is mild and tranquil, and universal affa- bility is very rarely interrupted by the slightest tincture of harshness or passion. The general <|rink is tea, of which a large vessel is prepared in the morning for the occasional use of the fa- mily during the day. Marriages are conducted aolely by the will of tiie parents^ and polygamy is allowed. The bride is purchased by a present to her parents, and is never seen by her husband till after the ceremony. H is not permitted to bury in cities or towns, and the sepulchres are commonly on barren hills and mouatains, where there is no chance that agriculture will disturb the bones of the dead. The colour of mourning !• white, that personal ocglect or forgctfulness may appear in its squalor ; and it ought on solcmi occasions to continue for three years, but Hgldooi exceeds twenty-seven months. The walls of the houses are sometimes of brick, or of hardened clay, but more commonly of wood; and tlicv generally consist only of aground tloor, Ihunirh m those of merchants there be sometimes a .second story, which forms the warehouse. The houses are ornamented with columns, and open gal- leries, but the articles of furniture are few. Tlic dress is long, with large sleeves, and a ilowinir girdle of silk. The shiK and drawers vary ac- cording to the seasons, and in winter the use n[ furs is general, from the skin of Hie'sheep to that of the ermine. The head is covtred with a siuall hat in the form of a funnel, but this varies among tJic superior classes, whose rank is distirignished by a large bead on the top, diversitied in colour according to the quality. The dress is in general simple aud uniform ; and on the audience givni to Lord Macartney, that of the emperor was only distinguished by one large pearl in his boaiiet. The chief amusement of the Chinese seem to be dramatic ;e:i^hibitions, 6re-works, in which tiicy excel all other nations : and feats of deception and dexterity. Language.] The -language is esteemed the I most singular on the face uf the globe. Almost every syllable constitutes a word, and there m scarcely one thousand five hundred distinct sounds ; yet in the Written language there arc at least eighty thousand characters, or diilercnt forms of letters, so that every sound may havi about fifty senses. "The leading characters are de- nominated keys, which are not of difficult, acqui- sition. . Cities and Towns.] The chief cities ofl China are Pekin and Nankin, or the northerni and southern courts, the former being the Cam- bula, or city of the Chan, in ivritings of tiiej middle ages, the capital of Cathay, as NankinI was of Mangi. Pekin occupies a large space ofl ground; butthe streets are wide, and the houses! seldom exceed one story. The length of what ill called the Tatar city is about four miles, and tliel •suburbs are considerable. By tliebost infornuT tion which the receipt embassy could procure, population was competed at three millions. Th«| bouses indeed are neither large oor numarous;! but it is common' to find three generMioDs> ^i'l' all their wives aud cbildreOj uuder one roof, h \ •^"^xt-^'y*- ■ -J-- "d: \ ■^' I "ill W ■•A 1' ■/ lil :t ,|l 'M \ 1 '1 ' , , ■ ; ■.A 1 1 -i : 1 •t •. h\ '*>.} M TFIF CHINESE EMPIRE. 827 lliey cat ia common, nnd one root' coiituin§ miin}' bedii. The neiiititess of (liu houseii, and VAriotis repletion of tlic shops, delight tlte eye of Ihu visitor. Nankin, which was the residence of the court till the fifteenth century, is a yet more extensive city than Pekin, and is reputed tlic largest in the empire. The walls are said to he about seven- teen British miles in circumference. The chief edifices are the gates, with a few tcntples; and a celebrated tower clothed with porcelain, about two hundred feet in height. Such towers were •tylcd pagodas by the Portuguese, who supposed tlicm to be temples ; but they seem to have been chiefly erected as memorials, or as ornaments, like the. Grecian and Roman columns. Edifices.]] The most striking, and peculiar edifices iti China are the pagodas or towers, al- ready mentioned, which sometimes rise to the height of nine stories, of more than twenty feet each. The temples, on the contrary, are com- monly low buildings, always open to the devout worshippers of polytheism. The whole style of Chinese architecture is well known to be singular, and is displayed with the greatest splendour in the imperial palace nt Pekin. Inland Navigation.] The canals of China have long excited the wonder of other nalions. As the two grand rivers lloanho and Kianhu bend their course from west to east, the chief object was to intersect the empire from north to south; which was in a great measure accom- plished by the imperial canal. This wonderful work, which in utility and labour exceeds the enormous wall, is said to have been begun in the tenth century of the Christian era. thirty thou- sand men having been employed fur forty-three ycar^'in.its cpmplction. . To enumerate! the other canals of China would be infinite, as there is a large cunal in every pro- vince, with branches leading to most of the towns and villages. IVIanu)>cture8 and C0MMEUCE.3 The ma- nufacturesr of China aro so multifarious as to embrace alaiost every article of industry. The most noted manufacture is that of porcelain, and is followed in trade by those of silk, cotton, paper, &c. The porcelain of Chipa has been celebrated from remote ages, and is chiefly pre- pared from a pure white clay called kaolin; while the petunsi is understood to be a decayed feUspar. Borne writers add soap, rock, and gypsum. ' flh, i i/,-; The internal rommctce of China is immense, but the external trade is unimportant, consider- ing the vastncss of the empire ; a scanty inter- course exists with Russia and Japan : but the chief export is that of tea, wliicli is sent to England, to the value of about one million yearly. Mineralogy.] Among the metals, lead and tin seem to be thu rarest. China po.ssesscs mines of gold, silver, iron, white copper, common copper, and mercury, together with lapis lazuli, jasper, rock crystal, load stone, granite, por- phyry, and various marbles. According to some, rubies are found in China; but others assert that they come from Ava. Jh many of the northern provinces coal is found in abundance. The common people generally use it pounded with water, and dried in the form of cakes. Pekin is supplied from high mountains in the vicinity, and the mines seem inexhaustible, though the coal be in general use. Mines of silver are abundant, but little work- ed, from an apprehension of impeding the pro- gress of agriculture. Th^ gold is chiefly derived from the sand of certain mountains, situated in the western part of the provinces ai Sechuen and Yunnan, towards the frontiers of Tibet. That precious metal is seldom used except by the gilders, the emperor alone having solid vessels of golfl- Tutenag, which is a native mixture of zinc and iron, seems to be a peculiar product of China, and in the province of Houquang there was a mine which yielded many hundred weight in the co.iTse of a few days. The copper of Yunnan, and other provinces, supplies the small coin current' through the em- pire; but there is a singular copper of a white colour, called by the Chinese 2>i-'toiig, which de- serves particular notice. This metal must not he confounded with the tutenag, an error not un- frequent. It is indeed sometimess mingled with tutenag to render it softer. •TJ ■» '1 CHINESk ISLANDS. " ' Numerous isles are scattered along the southern and eastern coast of China, the largest being tliosc of Taiwan, alao called Formosa, and that of Hainan. Formosa is a recent acquisition of the Chinese in the latter endof tbeaeventceoth century; tlienatives being I. |t I I 1i- ^1 / ! f B*28 CrOGRAPHICAL DRSTRIPTION OF THE WORLD. being by the Chinese accounts little better than savages. It is divided from north to south by mountains, and the chief Chinese possessions are in the western part- The southern part of Hainan is mountainous, but the northern more level, and productive of rice, in the centre there are mines of gold ; and on the shores are found small blue fishes* which the Chinese esteem more than those which we call gold and silver fish ; but they only survive a few days when confined to a small quantity of water. CHINESE TATARY. Extent.] This wide and interesting portion of Asia, which has repeatedly sent forth its swarms to deluge the arts and civilization of Europe, extends about three thousand one hun- dred geographical miles. The breadth, from the northern frontier of Tibet, to the Russian con- tines, is about oae thousand and eighty geograpbi- cnl miles. Religion.I The religion most universally diffused in this part of Asia is what has been called Shamanism. The kalkas were accustomed to acknowledge a living Lama. Manners and Customs.] The Mandshurs are little distii^nisbable in their manners from the MoDguls. By the account of the Jesuits they have no temples, nor idols, but worship a Su- preme Being, whom they style Emperor of Hea- ven. But probably their real creed is ShamaDism, or a kind of rtltional polytheism. Languages.! The three languages of the Mandshurs, Mongufs, and Tatars, riidicjiny dif- fer from each other ; the former of whiliips are car- ried on with little art, and quickly brou^^ht to a conclusion. The priests of Tibet, who shun the locicty of women, have no share in these cere- Lonies, or in ratifying the obligation between the parties, which, it seems, is formed indissoluble I for life. It is a remarkable characteristic of the country, I that polygaii^y here assumes a difl'erent form from that of other orient&l regions: the women being iadulged in a plurality of husbands, instead of the reverse. It is the privilege of the elder brother to select a wife, who stands in an equal relation to his other brothers, whatever may be I the number. Such is the respect paid to t\i<.: lama, that his I body is pceservud entire in a shrine ; while those of (he inferior priests are burnt, and their ashes preserved in little hollow images of metal. But in general the dead bodies are exposed to the beasts and birds of prey, in walled areas ; and an annual festival is held, as in Bengal and China, I in honour of the dead. A curious idea of the manners and customs of hheTibetians may beforuH'i from Mr. Turner's account af his interview with the iuma, then an infant not capable of speech ; for in the spirit of the eastern metempsychosis, they suppose that the soul of the lama passes from his late body into another, which they discover by iufallible I marks. Upon the whole, the Tibetians appear to have [made a considerable progress in civilization; but ■ the sciences continue in a state of imperfection; the year, for instance being lunar, and the month ■ consisting of twenty-nine days. Cities and Towns.] Of the cities and towns |of Tibet little is known. The capital is Lassa ; Vol.11. No.CXXVI. and several other names in the soutTiem part assume thecharactcr of towns in the maps, though probably mere viiluges. There being little com- merce, there is no middle class of people ; but the transition is rapid, from the miserable hut to the stone palace or monastery. Climate.] The cliniiite of Bootan may be said to bo temperate, when compared with that of Tibet Proper ; yet the winters are very severe even in the former country. The spring is mark- ed, from INTarch to May, by a variable atmos- phere; heat, thunder storms, and occasionally with refreshing showers. From June to Sep- tember is the season of humidity, when heavy and continued rains fill the rivers to their brim, which run oil' from hence with rapidity to assist in inundating Bengal. From October to March a clear and uniform sky succeeds, seldom obscured either by fogs or clouds. For three months of this Reason a degree of cold is felt, far greater perhaps thau is known to prevail in Europe. Thus the distinguishing characteristic of the cli- mate is that extreme dry, and parching cold which, under the latitude of twenty-six degrees, rivals that of the Alps in latitude forty-six degrees. RivEiis.] The chief river of Tibet is, beyond all comparison, the Sampoo or Burhampooter, which rising in the western region, from the same lofty mountains that give source to the Ganges, proceeds in an E and S. E. direction for about the space of oce thousand English miles, to the confines of Tibet and Asam, where it bends S. W and Hows into the estuary of the Ganges, after a farther course of about four hundred Bri- tish miles. Lakes.] These Alpine regions contain, as usual, many lakes, the most considerable being represented under the name of Terkiri, about eighty British miles in length, and twenty-five broad. Mineralogy.] The mineralogy is better known from the account appended to Mr. Tur- ner's Journey in 1783, from which it appears that Bootan does not probably contain any metal except iron, and a small portion of copper; while Tibet Proper, on the contrary, seems to abound with rich miner}*)^. Gold is found in great quan- tities, sometimes in the form of dust, in the beds of rivers, sometimes in larger masses, and irregular veins. There is a lead minCj two days journey 9D from ! i Iiil i, „ : m% 'Nil m ill i '!• i ■I 8;'.o geoghaphical description cv the world. fi-oni . Tcshoo Lumboo, the Cinnabar, rich in qiiicksilver, there arc strong indications of is another product of Tibet, metals cannot be worked, as deficiency of fuel ; and coal precious than gold. ore being galena, is alao found : and copper. Rock salt But in general the there is a complete would be far more jrimes are com- ■iiitted, and few punishments arc inflicted. The brief code is posted up in every town and village, ill lai «e letters, in a spot surrounded with rails. M.^N'iEHs AND Customs.] The people of this UKtiun are well made, active, i ee and easy in their motions, with stout I'mbs, althou^^h their strength '3 not to be compared to that of the northern inhabitants of Europe. They are uf a yellowish colour all over, sometimes bordering on brown, and sonieiimes on white. Ladies of distinction, who seldom go out in the open air, vvithout being covered, are perfectly while. It is by their eyes, like 'he Cbinese, these people are distinguishable. 'These organs have not (hat rotundity which those of other nations exhibit ; but are oblong, small, and are sunk deeper in the head, in consequence of which these peo'^le have almost thu appearance uf bei»g pink eyed. Tiieir eves MALACCA. 831 eyes are dark brown, or rather black ; and thu eye-lids form in the great aiiiilo of the eye a deep fiirrow, uhich makes the Japanese h)()k as it lliey were sliarp 8ij»;htrd, and discrim nates them from other nHlioiis. The eyebrows are also placed gomcwhat higher. Their lieuds are in general large, and their necks short ; their hair black, tbiik, and shining, from flie use they make of oils. Their nones, though not flat, arc }ct rather (liick and short. This highly civili/cd people display great di- versity of charack'r, but the virtues far preponde- rate over the vices : and even their pride is useful, as it prevents them from stooping to the mean Iritks ol the maritime Chinese. The ilapaiiest; use great varieties of food and .-iaucej. The master or mistress of the house is not harassed with the trouble of carvin;r. the meat being previously cut into small pieces, served up in basons of por- celain, or japanned wood. The general drink is jacki, or beer made of rice : which last article ;iIso tiipplics the place of bread. They use many kinds of vci'iitables and fruits. The use of *.ca is also universal ; but wine and spirituous liquors are unknown. The houses of the Japanfs'5 are of wood, co- loured white, so as to resemble stone ; and though roomy and commodious, never exceed two stories in height, t'se upper serving for lofts and garrets, and seldom being occupied. l']ach house forms but one room, which may be divided \uin apart- ments at pleasure, by movable partitions sliding ia grooves. They use neither chairs nor tables, H'ting on straw mats, the meal being served apart to each on a small square wotxlen salver. In Jeddo the houses are covered with tiles ; but the genera! fabric is a frame work of wood, split bamboos, and clay. The dress consists of trowsers : and what we call night gowns, or loose robes of silk or cotton, are universally worn by both sexes. Thes lody of frequent vowels and liquids. The Arabic character is made use of; and an influx of words of that 'language has foliowed the adoption of ihe Mohammedan religion. They write on paper, using ink of their own composition, and pens made of (he twigs of a tree. The purest Mulay is still supposed to be spoken in the peuinsula, and has no inflection of nouns or verbs Character.] The Mala3s,are restless, fond of navigation, war, plunder, emigration, colo- nies, desperate enterprises, adventures, and gal- lantry. They talk incessantly of their honour and their bravery, whilst they arc univers^.lly considered by those with whom they have inter- course as the HK.st treacherous, ferocious people on the face ol' the globe ; and yet they speak the softest language of Asia. This ferocity is so well known to the European companies who have set- tlements in the Indict, that they have universally agreed in prohibiting the captains of their ships, >vno may nut into the IVIalay inlands, from taking on board any seamen of that nation, except in the greatest distress, and then on no account to exceed two or three. It is nothing uncommon for a handful of these savages sudde''y to eta- bark, attack a vessel by surprize, poignard in hand, massacre the people, ant! make themselves ittasters of her. Malay barks, with twenty-five or thirty men, have been known to board Eu- ropean ships of thirty or forty guns, in ordor to take possession of them, and murder with their poignards great part of the crew. The Malay history is full of such enterprises, which mark the desperate ferocity o( these barbarians. SIAM. Extent and Boundari'zs.] THE extent of the Siamese dominions* has been recently restrict- ed by the encroachments of the Rirmans, nor can Horac of the limits be accurately defined. The length of the kingdom is about seven hundred British miles; but uf this about one hal( is not above seventy m't^f.i in medial breadth. Religion.] The religion ofthe Siamese, like that of the Birmans, resembles that of (he Hin- doos ; and the transmigration of souls forms an essential part of the doctrine; but they inwtate the Chinese in their festival of the dead, and in ■•ome other rites of that singular nation. Navy.] The navy is composed of a number of vessels of various sizes, some of which are richly decorated. Hence, as ia the Biriniui his- tory, sdval engageineu.s are not uncnuunon' and the large rivers of exterior India are often reddened with human gore. Both: tbe Birman and Siamese vessels frequently display a singular fantastic elegance. Manners and Customs.] There is a consi- derable similitude in the manners and customs of all the stales between ilhe vast countries of China and Hindostan. The women are under few re- straints, and are married at an earl}- age. The espousals i.re concluded by femile mediation; and on the third visit the parties are contiidercd as wedded, after the exchange of a few presents, without any further ceieiMOi;y civil or sacred. Polygamy is allowed,: bu >■ rather practised from ostentation than t \ ■' motive, and one wife is always acknowleiigcd as supreme. The Siamese funerals considerably resemble those of the Chinese. The body is inclosed in a wooden bier or varnished coffin ; and the tnon'ks called Talapoins, (perhaps from th' 'r ialapan,ot peculiar umbrella,) sing hymns in the Bali tongue. After a solemn procession ^'le body k burnt 0.1 a funeral pile of precious woods, erected near some temple; and the spectacle is often rendered more magnificent by the addition of theatrical exhi- bitions, in which the Siamese excel. The tombs are in a pyramidical form, and those of the kings large and lofty. Mourning is not pref :riiied by the laws, as in China; and the poor aie buried with little ceremony. The common nourishment of tlie t e con- sists in rice and fish, both whi I' ."J'- are abundant. They also eat lizards, rats, .r 1 £>cve- ral kinds of insects. The houses are small, and constructed of bam- boos upon pillars, to guard against inundations, so common in this country. They are 8pe«dil\ d of a number of which are he Biriniui his- ot uncoiuinon; India are often Dlh; tbe Birman play a singular iere is a consi. and customs of jntrics of China e under few re- early age. The 11 1q mediation; i are considered ' a few presents, civil or sacred, rather practised iiiotive, and one uprenie. erably resemble ^ is inclosed in ?. and the monks tb; "T ialapan.ot 1 the Bali tongue. )dy k burnt on a rected near some :a rendered more theatrical cxhi- cel. The tombs bose of the kings lot preecriJied by poor sie buried the ' . .«• e con- Ill i! , ."'J*' are s, rats, .'P « itve- istructed of bam- linst inundatioiis, I'hey are speedily conflugratiou, it I slight calamity. J common habita- *ri.'«ive spacCj and a few orna- Ki*"* height, but iH of the country in, cotton, benja- pan woods; anti- stoue, gold, and silver; %h¥ II I N D O S T A ^I. 833 ^Ivcr ; sapphires, emeralds, agates, crystal, marble, and tombac. Climate and Seasons.] Tlie two first months of the Siamese vear, which correspond with our December and January, form tl)e whole winter of this country; the third, fourth, and fifth, be- long to what is called their little summer ; the seven others io their great summer. Being on (he north of the line, their wiirter of course cor- responds with ours ; but is almost as warm as a French summer. The little summer is (heir spring; but autumn is absolutely unknown in (heir calendar. The winter is dry ; the summer \i moist; the former is distinguished by the course of the wind, which blows almost con- stantly from the north, refreshed with cold from (lie snowy mountains of Tibet, and the bleak wastes of Mongolia. Rivers.] The grand river Meinam, which signifies the mother of waters, reigns supreme among the Siamese streams. H is very deep and rapid, always full, and, according to K.Tmpfcr, larger than the Elbe. He adds, that the inha- bitants suppose its source to be in the mountains which give rise to the Ganges, and that it branches through Cambodia and Pegu. The inundations are in September, after the snows have greatly melted in the northern mountains, and the rainy season has commenced. In De- cember the waters decline, and sink by degrees to their former level. The water, though ratiddy, is pleasant and salutary. The other states of exterior India, are Laos, Cambodia, Siampa, Cochin-China, and Tun- quin ; countries unimportant in themselves, and concerning which the materials are so very im- perfect, that no European could give a just account of them. • 1^:1 :■. i.l '^ili. HINDOSTAN. Name.] THE native name of this celebrated country is said to be, in the ancient Sanscrit lan- guage, Bharsta. That of llindostan seems to have oeen imposed by the Persians, and derived from the great western river, with the Persian termi- nation Stun, which signifies a country *. — - ^ - • — - '•• • The term Hindostun, however, seoms to be wholly Pcmian ; for Hindoo, in that language, signifies Black; and iVrtH, a country ; so that, if this dciivatiou be exact, lUn. Vol. II. No. CX.XVL Boundaries.] This portion of Asia extends from Cape Conioriu, in the south, to the moun- tains of Caslnuir, in the north ; being nearly equal to one thousand eight hundred und ninety British miles. From the river Araba, on the west of the province of Sindo, to the mountains which divide Bengal from Cassay and the Bir- man dominions, its breadth is about one thousand six hundred British miles. Religion.] The religion of the Hindoos is artfully interwoven with the common offices of life; and the different casts are supposed to ori- ginate from Brahma, the immediate agent of creation under the Supreme Power, in the follow- ing manner : Brahmm from the mouth ( wis- dom): To pray, to read, io instruct. The Chehteree, from the arms ( strength ) : To draw the bow, to fight, to govern. I'he Brice, from the belly or thighs (nourishment) : To provide the necessaries of life by agriculture and traffic. The Soodcr, from the feet (subjection) : To la- bour, to serve. Population.] The popuKtion of this exten- sive part of Asia is supposed to amount (o sixty millions, of which the British po«=i( ions may now perhaps contain a quarter, especially as fre- quent recent conflicts have thinned the popula- tion in many other parts of Hirn'ostan. Mannehs and Customs.] The manners and customs of the Hindoos are intimately blended with their religion, and are universally similar, with !i few cxceijtions in niountainous and otlier districts. One of the most singular begins to expire, that of giving the living widow to Ihesame flames with her husband's corpse. Tiie ancienfs represent the Bramins as accustomed to terminate, their own lives on funeral piles lighted by thcm- sf^lves. But by what refinement of cruelty this custom wan extended to involuntary and helpless females has not appeared ; perhaps the cause was (o enforce the preservation of their husband's health by making their life depend on his. As sOon as a child is born, it is carefully re- gistered in its proper cast, and astrologers are consulted concerning its destiny ; for the Hin- doos, like the Turks, are strict predestinarians. A Bramin imposes the name. The infant thrives by what we would call neglect ; and no where Uostan signifies The Corntry ofUlttcks; wliicli porfoctly di-- scrilius the people, especially if coiupaixd with the nativeg of Persia. , __ 9E m% I i! I '} ,:• i i ; 1 '■ 1 1 ) 1 ij h ! " ' Tr > ill i il'. r h f''V St t5i Gi':o(;inpni( Ai, TirscniPTioN of the wonr.D. arc scon more vigour and flegunce of lorm. Tlio boys arcgenenilly tuii^rht reading and \vri((ain from animal food and intoxicating liquors; vet if we judge from the fanatic penances, suicides, and other supersti- tious frenzies, no where on earth is the mind so much disordered. The houses are built of earth or bricks, covered with mortar, and someumcs with excellent cement, having small apertures, which serve for windows. There is generally only a ground floor, inclosing a court, with a small gallery supported by slight wooden pillars. The amusements consist of religious processions ; but though dancing girls abound, yet theatrical exhibitions do not seem so common as in the coun- tries farther to tlie east. Languages.] The general ancient language of Ilindostan is believed to have been the San- scrit, an original and refined speech,^ compared by Sir William Jones with the Greek and Latin. The more common dialects are chiefly the fol- lowing : 1. That of Kandi, in the interior of Ceylon. 2. The Tamulic, used in the Deccan. .'>. The Malabar language. 4. The Canarin. 5. The Marashda langu!>ge. G. The Talenga. 7 The IJengallee ; a wretched dialect. 8. The Devanagaric or Hindostanee. 9. The Guzaratic. 10. The Nepaulic. Manufactures.] The manufactures of Ilin- dostan have been celebrated from early antiquity, particularly the muslins and other fabrics from •otton. Piece goods, as we call them, are men- tioned by the author of the Periplus, and other ancient writers, who praise the manufacture and and the beautiful colours with which it was dyed. The Hindoos, in the time of Strabo, were also noted for elegant works in metals and ivory. Nor is Hindostan celebrated at this day lor any manufacture, except those of muslins and cali- coes, the other exports consisting of diamonds, raw silks, with a few wrought silks, spices, drugs, &c. The shawls of Cashmir are also deservedly esteemed ; being there woven from a material chiefly supplied by Tibet. PaiDting is in its in- fancy ; and they are strangers to shade and per- spective. Sculpture is as little advanced as paint- ing, the design and execution being alike bad ; 2 yet the temples are sometimes majestic and so- lemn. In most trades very few tools are emploicd. The simple loom i^ reared in a morning under a tree, and carried home in the evening. Climate and Seasons] The climate and sea- sons are considcrubly divcrsilied by dillerence of latitudt; and localsituation. Yetiiigcneral, th()U'>-li the northern Alps of Tibet be covered with per- petual snow, there is some similarity of climate through the wide regions of ilindostan. In lien. gal (he hot, or dry season, begins with March and continues to the end of May, the thcrniunir. ter sometimes rising to one hundred and ten de- grees : this intense heat is sometimes interrupted by violent thunder storms from the nordi-west, the seat of the grand Alps of Asia. The rainy season continues from June to September : the three last months of the year are generally plea- sant : but excessive fogs often prevail in January and February. The periodical rains are also fcJt in Sindetic Ilindostan, except in Cashmir, where they seem to be excluded by the surroutuling mountains. In the rest of Hindostan they ulmosit deluge the country, descending like cataracts from the clouds, and the Ganges and other rivers spread to a wide extent, the inundation ceasing in September. By the latter end of June the Gauges has risen fifteen feet and a half, nut ofthirtv- two, which is the total of its overflow. In tie piountainti the rainy season begins earlyin April; but rarely in the plains till the latter end of June. By the latter end of July all the lower parts of ISengal, contiguous to the Ganges and Ilurram- pooter, are overflowed, and form an inundation of more than one hundred miles in width; nothing appearing but villages and trees, except- ing very rarely the top of an elevated spot (the artificial mound of some deserted village) ap- pearing like an island. In tlie southern division, the chain of the Gauts, or mountains of Malabar and Coromaii- dcl, supporting the high table laud in the centre, intercept the great mass of clouds ; and the alter- nate S. W. and N. £ winds, called the Mon- soons, occasion a very rainy season on one side of the mountains only, that js on the windward side. Yet it appears that during the first part of the rainy monsoon, in May and June, on the coast of Malabar, a considerable quantity of rain falls in the upper region, or table land of Mysore. The monsoon is from the N. E. frona October to April; II I N I) O S T A N. 835 Ipril; and from May to September in the oppo- jilc direction. The riiiciy season on the coast of Coromandel is with the N. E monsoon; and on that of Malabar with tlie S. W.: in general, March, April, May, and June, are the dr} nionths. llonce, in the whole extent of Hindos- tji), except in Cashniir, tlicre can hardly be said to be a vestige of winter, except the (hick fogs of our November ; and excessive rains, or exces- sive heats, form the chief varieties of the year. Rivers. 3 The Ganges must be considered as the sacred sovereign oT the Hindoo ri\ers, an attribute not infringed by the recent discovery of the Burrampooter. It receives such a nnntber of important tributary streams, that its magnitude exceeds what might have been cxjjected from the comparative length of its course; which may, however, be estimated at about fourteen hundred British miles, while the Iloan ho of ('hina has been computed at two thousand, and the Kian kii^at two thousand two hundred. The source of the Ganges remains a curious object of investi- jration ; nor can much reliance bo placed on its delineation in the map of Tibet by the Chinese Lamas, published by Du Ilalde, and followed by all succeeding geographers. Tieflenthaler has lain down the latitude of the noted Gangoutra, or Cow's mouth, in hit. thirty-three degrees, be- inij a celebrated cataract, where the Ganges IS Slid to pass through a vast cavern in a mountain, failing into a large bason which it has worn in the rock. At lludwar, about two hundred and eighty miles to the south of the Cow's month, ( if this last be not a dream of the fabling Hindoos), the Ganges enters the wide plains of Hindostan; and pursues a south-east direction by the ancient city of Canogc, once the capital of a kingdom, by Allahabad, Benares, Patna, &c. till dividing into many grand and capacious mouths, it forms an extensive delta at its egress into the gulf of Bengal. The extreme mouths of the Ganges are intersected with isles, called the Sunderbunds, overgrown with tall bamboos and other luxuriant vegetation, the impenetrable haunts of the royal tiger, and other beasts of prey. On tht western- raost outlet of the Ganges, called the Hoogley, itands Calcutta, the capital of British Hindostan. This, and the most eastern, which receives the Burrampooter, are the widest and most important branches. The noblest ttibutary stream of the Ganges is the Burrao) pooler, being the Sampoo of the Ti- betans. The course of the river, and its junction- with the Ganges, was first asiertaiiied by Major lit nnell. This noble river runs for four hundred miles through (he British territory ; and for the lust sixty miles before its junction with the Ganges is from four to five miles wide. On their union before Luckipour, they form a body of running fresh water, resembling a giili)h of the sea, interspersed with islands, some of which rival in size and fertility our Isle of \"V ight. la the mouths of (he Ganges, and the Burrampooter,. the sudden influx of the tide will rise instanta- neously to the height of from five to twelve feet. The Indus is by the natives called Sindch. It is also called Nilab, or the Blue River. The source, like that of the Ganges, remains un- known. The Kistna, a sacred river, rises at Balisore not far to the south of Prona, and forms a delta near Masulipatam, after a course of about five hundred British miles. This river rivals any In- dian stream in the fertility dilluscd by ..^ inunda- tions ; and the richest diamond mines in liie world, arc in the neighbouring hilU to the north. The chief tributary streams in that quarter are the Bcema ; passing near the diamond mines of Visia- pour, and the Muzi, or Moussi, by those of Goleonda. Mountains.] The mountains chiefly cele- brated by the llindoos may be said to bj only visible from their country, being the northern chain of the Tibetian Alps, covered with per- petual snow. Hence they are called Iliramala, from a word denoting;^now. The sandy desert of Agiraere, on the east of the Indus, extends in length between four and' five hundred British miles, and in breadth from sixty to a hundred and fifty. FouESTs.] Of this extensive portion of Asia a great part remaining in primitive wildness, therff are large forests in difi'erent quarters, particularly near the mouth of the Ganges, and in thewide un- explored regions on the west of the Sircars. These forests surpass in exuberance of vegetation any idea which Europeans can imagine; creeping plants of prodigious size and length, extended from tree to tree, forming an impenetrable gloom, and a barrier, as it were, sacred to the first myste- ries of nature. Zoology.] The numerous cavalry which foraii ! ; ill.M f-r i I «3€^ tSEOGnAPIIICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. form lliR armies of the Hindoo princes un\>\y groat mitnbers of horses ; and the breeds most celebrated are tliose of Lahore and Turkistan, but the [rrnndecs are supplied from Persia and Arabia. The inferior brerds, though ugly, are active. The horsas of Tibet, generally pyed, are often used in Gangctic HindostHn. The ani- mal called the wild mule, and the wild ass, some- times pass in herds to the northern mountains^ from the cent'-e of Asia, and the desort of Gobi. The Arabian camel, or that with a single liunch, is not unfrcquent about Patna. The ele- phafit'bas been frequently described ; the usual lieigfit oF this intelligent animal is about ten feet. ApeH and monkeys abound in various regions of Hindostan; and the orang outang is said to he found in the vast forests on the west of the Sir- cars. The other animals are wild boars, bears, \volve84 fo^es, jackalls, hyenas, leopards, pan- thers, lynxes-: in the north, musk weasels, and :n)any other quadrupeds of inferior size. The royal tiger of Bengal is a far more ter- rible animal than the stoutest lion. Such is their size and strength that they are said to carry off bullocks, the height of some being said to be five fed, ami the length in proportion *. Mineralogy ] The mineralogy of Hindos- tan may be opened by its most distinguished and ..peculiar product, celebrated in all ages of the 'world, that of diamonds, which arc indeed also found in Brazil, but of far inferior quality f. The chief and most celebrated diamond mines are those near Visiapour and Golconda, both near streams that flow into the Kistna, Golconda being in the territory of the Nizam, while Visia- pour belongs to the Mahrattas J. Next in value to the diamond are the sapphire and the ruby, which are chiefly found in the Bir- * Parties of ptuasui-e on the isius at the mouth of the Ganges, have often been shockingly interrupted by tlio sud- '.ons ; M^ith numerous tents nnd huts, and bazars, or when the S. W. monsoon commences f . IRAN OR PERSIA. Name.] The general name of Persia spread from the province of Pars or Fans ; but the na- tives, both in ancient and modern times, have termed their country Iran, under which deno- mination were included all the wide regions to from five to ten fathonM, and remain under water about t\vo minutes, each bringii g up about a hundred oysters in his net. These i>carls arc always formed like thu coats of an onion, around a grain of sand, or some other c.\traueou» particle. The yellow, or gold coloured, are most cstecnied by the natives ; and some are of bright red lustre, but tho dull grey and biuckuh ard of no value. i! III ! fi\ ;^;i ill I ilii f:m 111'' m 9F the S.13 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. Hie S. and W. of the river Oxus, or Jihon, the Amu of the KusHi. Irac Ajomi. In this province is Ispalian, the modern capital of Persia. 7. Kushestan. 8. Pars, Furs, or Persia Propt-r. !). kerman. 10. Laristan. 11. Mekran. 1% Segistan. IS. Khorasan *. AsciENT MoNu.MENT8.] Of thcsc the ruins of Persopolis are the mn'* lebratcd and remark- u4}le. They are situated at (he bottom of a mountain, fronting S. W. about forty miles to the north of Shiraz. They command a view of the cxlcoiiive plain of Mcrdattbt* and the moun- tain of Itehumut encircles them in the form of an amphitheatre; the nature of these ruins may be s(;en in (lie plates ; and it would be an idle attempt to degcribe in few words (he gr»nd jHirtuls, halls, and coluinus, aud niuneroiif. re- lievos and devices. There are many, iiiscrip- * nosiilcs tll<^sp pruvinrc£, and exclusive of Asiatic Turkey an the W. the ancient I'crsiiui empire cumpri^'U iiac'riiwia | or IJalk, which may be Uu-iiieU a wide and wrU-watcrcd j Kiii^donj of between ihreu hundred and four hniidred Uri. [ fish miles sqti.ire ; aud on the other side of the Oxns, Sog- ] iliana, or the eoiintry on the rifcr Sogd, whicJi passes by inodcra Saniarkaiul. Tlii» ]irovincc adjoiqed oi^ till! west to KJuiwarcMU, uitii the small territory of. Khiva. + Of the Parsccs, or ancicn,t worshippers of fire, there rem to be n<; reiiiaiiis in Persia, except perhaps a few visi- irs .' the fiery crtiptioDS of iaphth» o^ar Ual(ii, on the \». stern shoies of the Caspiaji. These iuftoeejit idolators have been almost extirpated by Mohammedan fanaticism, \vhicli has propagated every scandal that malice could in rent, represcntiiig^tbenva* dt^vourcf; ^f cjiil^fefb ajj^l fAiruiwr with Mthcratrucitlcs. Mr. Hua.way infurm»,u&tlia,t t]w»in(>ucher$» or infidels, particularly worship (he cverjastin^ fire near Il.iku, an in Idem of Ormuzd, or the Supreme Ineffable Creator ; while the evil principle, bclicTcd to hare sprung from matter, was styled Ahriman. But the chief jvorship. pers of the fire of Daku came from Hindostan, to which the I'arsecs retreated when Shah Abbas expelled them from hit empire; and they still abound near Bombay, where their singular mode of sepulture excites attention, as they ex. pose their dead in inclosed areas to be dcvdnred by birds of ])rcy, a custom which hat been propagated to sotnc other itriuj^tal nations. Mr. Ilant^ay says that there were stUl 6 tions in a character not yet explained, the letters of which resemble arrow heads, disposed in va- rious directions; and althour;h we be abltn make out the Peraepolitan alpbtibct, yet (he Ian. guage of that remote period appears to be locked up in impenetrable obscurity. RELuaoif] The religion of Persia is the Mo. hammeduii, which wa8 introduced by ti.e sword and has been fi)llowcd by its usual effects, the destriiclion and depopulation of (he country. Yet the Persians adopt a milder system of this creed than is followed by (he Turks and Arabs f. The priests of the Mohammedan religion, ot M,iillttS, are in Persia ot'len styled ^tkundi, which signifies readers: and they nut only preach in (ho musks, but are often 8clioolmas(er8. The Pechiminas are superior Mullas, or vicars of the hnams %. The Fakirs and Calenders are wan- dering monks, or rather sturdy beggars ; who, under the pretext of religion, compel the people to ntnintain thcMt in idleness. Mannkh^ ANn Customs.] TIic manners and customs of (he Persians, in the seven(een(h ccn- (ury, have been BiH|>iy detailed by Chardin. Thevenot, Sanson, anil other travellers. More modern ideas of Persian manners may be derived froa^ the^ truvicU of Ga\eliu ip GImI^ji §. Marriuges ". . ~i • "' ^ '" some worshipprrji of 'fire at a |iliicc thence st)led Gnebcra. biid, near Itpahi^n ; and (hat there arc still tire worshippers in (he neighbourhood of Sg rat is clear, froin Anqueiil du Perron, whuxe instructor in the Zend, and lV;hlavi was a person of that description, X T1\0. chwf prelitte i^jJtyled Sheikas Sqlhaum, or head of the faith; also Sa'!.i, Cassa, or High Priest. § The IHsrsians stili pridt; themselves in unkersal polite, ness, and ar* hoKpitat>le, not however wilbuut the cxpcc tMiQn of;prpsp»i(s iu return,. TVy sevw to cop>iifer them. seirvji, as more wihe a/i4 s.-iga9ipMs,th.!fn,othf,-r. nations, yet are passionate ; and the recent commotions have iinpurted a tajn^ of cruelty to the national character. Of a sanguine tcmporancnt, both- ricii and poor, are generally |;ay : ami immuder ,t« ujrtli will succt^^c) Iht;, mo^ vM^leiM; qii^rrdi.. Tht\y,art cj^trcmcl}- attaclir't '». (b(f,fair spx, vl\\i\ not averse to wine. The general con^pl^xioii is fair, spip9what tiiigeil with olive , but thai^e in, the south aboii't Shiraz of Cauda. har, and the provinces toward* India, are of a dark- brown. They arc commonly fat, with black hair, high forehe.id, aquiline nose, full cheeks, anda large chin, the form of tlic countenance being frequently oval. The men are generally strong and robust, and inclined, to martial excrriseo, but they arc particularly tubjectto disorders of -the eyes. Tkcy genorallv shave the head, and wear high crimson bonnets; but the beard is sacred, and tended with great, care. They often wear throe or four lighi drosses, one^bove the other,' fiutttoed with a belt and sash i aud Utcy are fond of liirirc c.luaki Pd, the letters sposcd ill va- c be ubito . .yet (be lau- i to be locked »ia is the Mo- by tLe sword, il effects, the the country, ystcni of this and Arabs f . n religion, or thvndfi, which nly preach in lasters. The p vicars of the dqrs arc wan- eggars; who, pel tbc people « manners and vcntcenth ccn- by Cbardin. sellers. More twy be derived Marriages staled Giiel)cra< It liru worshippers froin Anqiivlil du nil IVhUvi wu a Sqlhaum, or head riest. n iinkersal polilr. «ilbuut the cxpcc. til con^ifcr them, jthpr. nation!), yet uiiH have iiiipurtcd ■r. Of a sanguine r.iierally gay : anil vv^leHl; quarrels. i!X', a{\(i not averse 1 $9ip9what tinged t Shiraz of Canda. i of a dark- brown. ir, high forehrnd, in, the form of the : men arc generally tial excrrise.0, but of ithc eyes, 'i'iicy I crimson bonnets; gru'at, care. They lu^hoTfi the other,' are fiuuL of hirue cloaki * f '■(., '•M i ■*> ..~-»^"'±. IRAN OR IMlRSf A. V Marringos are conducted by temalc iiiedin- tioii; and (lie l)Oui|) und cercniuiiiet somuwiiat rcicmlHc tlio Russiiiii. Polygamy U allowed ; but the first niarri(!d is (he chit^f wife. The tombs of tlic ricli arc often grand, as arc thi; cenotaphs of the twelve Imams, or vicars of the prophet, regarded by the Cliias as his only law- ful smcccssors. LwciUAOKj The languai^e of Persia is per- haps the most celebrated of nil the Oriental titngucs, for Htrcngth, beanty and nu;lody. In general the Persian literature approaches nearer to th^ luiropcun in solid good sen.se, and clear- ness of thought and expression, than that of any other Asiatic nation. CiTiM.] The capital city of modern Persia is Ispahan. Including the snburb.s, its circuit is computed by Chardin at about twenty- four miles, and t)ie inhabitants at si\ hundred thousand. The walls arc of earth, and ill repaired, with ciglit gales, and the i-trcct^ nar- row, devious, and badly paved. The suburb of Vulfa, is \cTy large, and pos .sscd by the Armeniuus. The second city, at least i it fame, is Shiraz. This capital of Farttiiitan is situated in a, fertile valley ; tl>e circuit of the city is. about four miles, surrounded with a wall twenty- five feet high, and ten tliick, with round towers at the distance of eighty paces. The city is built of brick. The musk of the latQ Kcrim KJiao is splendid but unfinished. The climate of this celebrated city is delicious, particularly in the spring, when numerous (lowers perfume the air; and the llulbul. or oriental nightingale, the gold-tuich, liiuipt> aiwl. other warblers, delight the ear. The celebrated Bersiap gnlph has been, always more reiuark^-ble for the Uctories of foreigners, than for; nuj^ivc establishmcuts. Bender Abassi was a,pj[)rt oppos^tq tp the isle of Ormus; or rather on the coast between Ormns and (v'sliaiisb, or K^bfn^^ an^ is lu^w. luore commonly known by tbeniimeof Gombropq. Cliaiajciu. J Persia has been said to bq a coun- try of three climates ; but even in the south the cloaks of.thjck clot>). 'tlic m omcD wr^ip around their heads pLces of silk of diflereiit colours ; iiud thoir rolicii arc rather shorter thau those of the ineu. The Pursiaus eat twice ortlirice,ad»yy dining iilHtut noon, but the chief re- past is thc,SM{))}Qr, Th<; must usual dttili is boiled rice va> riuiisly prqiarudi The meat is boiled to c.vccss, and the z c.vtrcme high mountains contribute to alloy t' heat. Rivr.ns.] The noble streams of the Kn- ph rates ** and the Tigris can scarcely at uny pe- riod be consitlered us strictly Persian, thougti Clcsiphon, the capital of the Parthian mo- narchy, and Selcntia, .stood on the latter river. The river of Ahwax rises in the mountains of I'jlwcnd, and pursues a southern course till one branch enters the Tigris above its junction with the Euphrates, while the main struaiu flows into the estuary oftIie.se conjunct rivers. In the N. E. the large river of Jihon, rather belongs to Independent Tatary, with its nume- rous tributary streams. ZooLociv.] According to Chardin, the Per sian horses are the most beautiful even in the east; but in speed they yield to the Arabian, which are less distinguished by elegance of form. The Persian steeds are rather taller thau the saddle horses in England ; the head small, the legs deli- cate, and thq body well proportioned ; of a mild disposition, very, laborious, lively, and swift. The camel is also common, but not admitted into the province of JNIazcnderan, where they eagerly eat the Icayes of box, though to them a rank poispn. The Persian cattle resemble the Eu- ropean, except towards llindostan, where they are marked by thc,luu)Cih on the shoulders. Swine are scarce, save in the. N. W. provinces. Of thi large tailed sheep . that appendage sometimes weighs more than thirty pqund£« enlarging at the bottom iathe.form of a heart. Natuhal CtuiosiTitb.] Among the chief natural curiosities must be named the fountains of naphtha, or pure rock, oil, in thc.neighbour- hood of Baku, on the western coast of the Cas- pian, particularly in the adjoining promontory of Ashbcron. The land is dry and rocky, and there arc several small ancient temples^ in one of which, near the altar^ a large hollow cane is fixed in the ground, and from the end issues a blue flame, seemingly more pur.e and gentle than that produced by ardent spirits. From an hori- zontal gap in an adjoining rock there also issues a similar flame. me.il is cnlarfjed with pot-herbs, roots, and fruits, cakes, hard egps, and above all sweetmeats, of which they arc ex- tremely fond. Thtiy are, remarkable for cleaaliness, butU in their persons and habitations. * The l''orat of the Arabians and l*ersi;uis, INDEPENDENT I I It Hi il :|;' $39 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WOULD. INDEPENDENT TATARY. Name.3 The title of Independpiit Talary is now contined to the bounds of UzbcKs and Kir- guses; for their country must still be regarded as independent of the great neighbourin<^ powers, China, Russia, and Persia. ExtENT.] The extent of territory possessed by these triLo* inay be measured from the Cas- pian Sfea to the mountafns of Belur, a space of not lesfe than eight hundred and seventy British miles. From the mountains of Gaur, in the south, to the Russian boundaries on the north of the desert of Issim, may be near one thousand five hundred British miles ; but of this length a great ^lart is desert. Religion.] The prevailing religion is the Mohammedan, for the Kalmuk conquerors, though they retained their idolatry, were tolc.-int. Manners and Customs.! They are said to be polite and benevolent, ''^hc drtss of the men does not reach below the calf of the 1*"7, with girdles like the Polish. The female raiment is similar, with long ear-rings; the hair is a^so T'orn in ver*' long tresses, decorated with rib- bons. They tinge their nails with hinna. Both flexes wear trowsers, with light boots of Russia leather. The head-dress resembles the Turkish. The houses are generally of atone, decorated ■with Chinese artii-i's. They are cleanly in their food, which often consists of minced meat : and, like the Russians, they preserve their victuals frozen for a considerable time. Tea h the gene- ral drink. The wives are purchased ; and the ceremonies of marriage, &c. diiler little from those of other Mohammedans, the mullahs or priests having great infltience. They have small copper coins ; but weiglv gold and silver like the Chinese. They are not warlike, but use the lance, sabre, and bow, while the rich have coats of mail. The country is very productive of many kinds of frnits and particularly wine. KiRGUsEs.] About one half of Independent Tatary is occupied by the Kir^uses in the north, a people of undoubted Tataric origin, and the IJabcks in the south. They are considered as faithless, pusillanimous, yet restless; but the Great llord, defended by mountains on the S. and E. a^iscrted their independence in repeated rontests with the Kalmuks of Soongaria. The Middle aad Little Hords have acknowledged the Russijin sovereignty ; but this suhjectirn is mere- ly noniinul, for the Russians are obliged to fortify themselves against these allies. The manners of the Kirguses art; common to the Tatars. Their tents are of a liind of felt ; their -trink kumiss, made of acidulated marc'ii milk. They lead a wandering life, from the borders of the Upper Sirr, or Syrt, near Tash- knnd, to the stcpp of Issim. As the Kirgusians regard each other as brethren, they are obliged to employ slaves, be- ing captive* whom they take ^n their incursions. Their dre&.i is the common i'ataric, with large trowsers, and pointed boots. The ladies orna- ment their heads with the necks of herons, di!>- poscd like horns. They appear to be Moham- medans, though rather of a relaxed creed. They are extremely fond of the Kalmuk women, who long retain their form and charms ; and often marry them if they will adopt the Moham- medan reli[cion. There is an annual festival in honour of the dead. KuwAREZM.] This country extends from the Jihon or Amu, to the Caspian Sea, bounded on the N. and S. by wide deserts, the chief town being now Khiva. I'his country is about three hundred and fifty British miles in length and breadth, and in the time of Jengis Khan, was a powerful kingdom, but at that time included Khorasan, and a part of Great Uucharia. {A,t present this state is almost restricted to the' dis- trict of Khiva, the circuit of which may be per- formed on horseback in three days : but there arc five walled cities, or rather to:wns, within half '-i day's journey of each other. Great Bokhara.] By far the mo^t impor- tant part of Independent Tatary, is comprised under the name of Great Bokhara, generally supposed to have originated from the city of Bokhara, the first which the Persian merchants entered on visiting the country. It is part of the Touran of the ancient Persians. Extent and Boundaries.] Great Bokhara extends more then seven hundred British miles in length, from N. to S. by a medial breadth of about three hundred and fifty. Religion. The religion of the Uzbeks and Rokharians, is the Mohammedan, of the Sunni sect, and the government of the khans is despotic. Manners and Customs.] The manners and cuitoms of the Usbeks are similar to those of the other ARABIA. 839 other Tatars : but tbey are suppoaet'i to be the most spirited and industrious of these barba- rians. Though many reside in tents in the giiinmer> yet in winter they inhabit the towns and villages. Cities.] The chief city of Great Bokharia is Sainarkaitd. on the southerri bank of the river Sogd, which, at the distance of above a hundred miles, after washing the walls of Bokhara, passes tbroui'h a considerable lake, and is supposed to join the Oxus. Climate.] The climate in general appears to be excellent, the heat even of the southern provinces being tempered by the high moun- taius capped with perpetual snow ; and though situated in the parallel of Spain, Greece, aud Asiatic Turkey, the proximity of the Siberian (]i:3crts, and the lofty alps, render the summer more temperate. Lakes.] Tlie most considerable lake is the sea of Aral, or of eagles. The lake Tengris, Balcasb, or Palkati, is near one hundred and forty British miles in length, by half that breadth heic^r the largest lake in Asia, after the sea» of Aral aud Baikal. ARABIA. Boundaries. The boundaries on the W. and S. are marked by the Red Sea, or Arabian Gulf, and the Indian Ocean : while the Persian Gulf extends a considerable way on the E. and this boundarv is considered as continued by the de- serts to the west of the Euphrates. The northern limits are Lss strongly marked ; but both in an- cient and modem times rise to an angle about one * This early civilization will excite the less surprise, when it is considered that even the modern Ai.bians are a most sagacious and inteliif?ent race of men, r niarliabie also for spirit and valonr, whose country alone has never been subdued by any invader, and who alone, of all A.siatic nations, have preserved the sacred (lame of freedom, which their progenitors kindled in their iiiacccsi»ible mountains. In comparatively modern times they have vindicated the fame of their ancient pre-eminence, by giving religion and laws to half of Asia and Africa, and a great part of Ku- rope. The Arabian khalifs in Spain, Africa, and I'-gypt, as well as at IJaghdud, cultivated thf arts and sciencos; and shewed a gri-at suiKiriorily to the birharous powers of Ei- ropc at tiiat period. From Saniak.iud to the cntrc of Africa, the Arabian language and inanucrti are held iu TC ueraiion. Vol. II. No. CXXVII. hundred miles to the E. of Palmyra, wb'ch is not included in Arabia. Thence the line proceeds S. W. to the S. E. angle of the Mediterranean, a northern boundary of Arabia Pctrflea. From the cape of Bab el Mandeb to the ex- treme angle on the Euphrates, the length is not less than one thousand eight hundred British miles ; while the medial breadth is about eight hundred. Population.] The population is original and indigenous, the Arabians being the same race with the Assyrians of remote antiquity, the pro- bable fathers of the Syrians, Egyptians, and Abyssinians, whose languages are intimately al- lied, as is that of the Hebrews ; being totally different in form and structure, from that of the Persians, their powerful neighbours in the E. By all accounts, sacred and profane, the Assy- rians were the most ancient civilized and com- mercial people *. Religion.] The religion of Arabia is Mo- hammedan. Besides the Sunni.s, there is here a considerable sect called the Zeidites, who in most p(»ints agree with the former, but seem rather more lax in their faith and practice. Manners and Customs.] The manners and customs of tht' inhabitants are for the most part similar to thoseof the other Bodouins.so frequent- ly described by the numerous travellers. Those of the country of \ emeu have been accurately deli- neated by Niebuhr ; and this province will pro- bably, after the utmost discoveryj continue to be regarded as the most interesting portion; re- presenting the Arabia Felix of antiquity. In Yemen murder is punished with death, but more often left to private revenge, which occasions family feuds, that pest of society f. _ _ DttESS.] + In politeness the Arabs vie with the Persians, anil there are still remains of their ancient hospitality. The common salutation isjhe Salam Alckuin, or Peace be with yon : in pronouncing wliicli words they rais^ the "-ight liand to the heart, but this form is seldom ailurossed to Chrisiians. On meeting in their wide deserts, the saluta- tions are multiplied : and the liiind of a Miperior is kis.tcd in token of re.ipect. The honsts, though uf stone, are meanly constructed ; the apartments of (he men being in front, those of rhi! wouhmi behind. Of a middle stature, thin, and dried as it were by the sun, the Arab is moderate in his food, tiie common people sel 'om exceeding a repast of bad bread made from durr.i, a kind of milk t, mixt'd with camel's milk, oil, butter, or grease, the only diink being water. This bread of duria, custom has taught then to prcl'w to tl'.ai of barley, which, though picasanf, they » a tliiitk I: i ■ 1:| i t J I ? if J till i , 'I ■pi': M:l ■ill tin f l\§ ^\} I I. f ■. mm 840 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. Drf.ss.] The dress, like that of the Turks and Hindoos, is long, ofU'u with large trowscrs, a girdle of embroidered leather, and a knife, or dagger. Over the shoulder is worn a large piece of line linen, originally designed to keep oifthe sun. The head-dress seems oppressive, consist- ing of several bonnets, from ten to fifteen, some of linen, others of cotton and woollen, the out- most bein^ often richly embroidered with gold; and around this multitude of bonnets is wrapped what they call a sash, being a large piece of mus- lin, with fringes of silk or gold, which hang down behnid. The women stain their nails red, and their feet and hands of a yellowish brown, with hiniia : the eye lashes are darkened with antimony, as inmany other oriental countries ; and e very art isexerted to render theeyebrowslargeand black. Polygamy is confined to the rich ; and throughout the whole Mohammedan regions, is far less general than is commonly supposed iu Europe. Language.] The language of the Arabs was, even in ancient times, divided into several dia- lects, as may be suspected from its wide diQ'usion. Even in Yemen there are subdivisions; and po- lite people use a diilcrent enunciation from the vulgar. The language of the Koran is so dilfe- rent from the modern speech of Mecca, that it is taught in the colleges th'>re, as the Latin is at Rome. Cities and Towns ] The most celebrated cities are Mecca and Medina ; but being sacred ground, the infidels are not permitted to ap- proach ; and we are obliged to trust to the inac- curacy and exaggeration of oriental writers. Mecca has not, in the most flourishing period, exceeded thesize and populousness of Marseilles. The government of this holy city is vested in a sheref, who is a temporal prince; and his re- venue is increased by the donations of Moham- medan sovereigns. Medina stands about two hundred British miles N. of Mecca, being, as well as the latter, about a day's journey from the shores of the Red Sea. It is, according to Niehuhr, a small town, tliink iinsubstaiiliul. Meat is little used, even by the ricli, v lio ilecni it uiihciiltliy iu a hot ciiniato. Tlie orioiilais in general beiii^ water-drinkers they are very fond of pastry. 'I'he rouiit noted drink is cutt'ee, Mhieh they prejiare like the Turks, by burning it in an open pan, and then bruisinf; in a stone or wooden mortar. In Venicn it is rarely used, as iu thuir opiuiua it heals tliv bluud ; but of tb« sliulU, or surrounded with a paltry wall, little remarkable except for the tomb of Mohammed. Edifices.] Among the chief edifices of Arabia must be named Kaaba, or temple of Mecca, which is an open st^uare, encompassed with a colonade, and ornamented with minarets. In this open space there are five or six houses of prayer, or chapels ; while in the centre u a small square edifice, peculiarly styled the Kaaba, in which is fixed a black stone, the early object of Arabian adoration. Climate and Seasons.] In the mountains of Yemen there is a regular rainy season, from the middle of June to the end of September: but even then the sky is rarely coverrd with cloud* for twenty-four hours at a time ; and durisig the remainder of the year a cloud is scarcely to be seen. At Maskat, and in the eastern moun- tains the rainy season extends from the mid- dle of November to the middle of FebruHry; and in Oinon there is rain from the middli; of February to the middle of April. In the plai.is of Yemen rain is sometimes unknown for a a hole year; and in July and August the thermometer will be 98^, while at Sana in the mountains it is 8.'>". In general the wind from the sea is mo:«». and that from the interior deserts is dry, in the iiorlhern parts of which are chieily perceived the disastrousetlectsoflhe burning wind called yamicj. Ri\eus.] In the defect of rivers stricflv h.;- longing to Arabia, the Euphrates and Tigris, which pass through Irak Arabi, have beea claimed by some g^'ographers ; and the Euphrutci may be considered as an Arabiuii river. But iu Arabia Proper what are called rivers are mere tor- rents, which descend from the mountains during the rains, and for a short period afterwards. The most important river is probably that which rist* near Sana, andjoins the Indian sea below llarjiah. Mountains.] In the division called Arabia Petrea, is the celebrated Mount Sinai, which presents two sublime summits of red granite. Deserts.] From Omon to Mecca, the greater part of Nejd in one prodigiouB sandy desert, in- terrupted towards the frontiers of Ilejaz and hi'sks of the colfee, (hey prepare a liquor !n the manner of tea. Spirituous liquors, though forbidden, arc not abso. ludly unkno»vn ; and they sonietimes smuak a plant, re. teinblinjr hemp, whirh prudiiees inloxieation ; noristobaero neglected, which is smoukcd either ia the Turkish or Persian manner. , . Yemen ASIATIC ISLANDS. 8il Yemen by Kerjo, containing the district of Surfa, and some fertile spots and towns. The JJ, W. part of Nejd presents ahnost a continued desert^ a prolongation as appears of the other, ^ith an oasis Ared on the VV. of Lahfa, includ- ing Jabrin, and some other places mentioned by the same author. In this desert there is also the ufl«.s of mount Schamer. Zoology.] The horse is the glory of Arabian I /oology. According to Zimmerman this animal is found wild in the extensive deserts on the N. of Hadramaut. They are here divided into two great fltsses, the Kadishi, or common kind, whose ge- nealogy has not been preserved: and the Koch- Imii*. or noble horses, whose breed has been ascertained for two thousand years, proceeding, as they fable, from the stalls of Solomon. These \s\\ bear the greatest fatigues, and pass whole (lay!* without food, living on air, to use the Arabian metaphor. There is also in this country a superior breed of asses, approaching in form and qualities to the mule, and sold at high pritci. There arc also antelopes, and wild oxen, with wolves, foxes, and wild boars, and the large and small panther. The tiger seems utterly unknown ; and the lion only appears be- yond the Euphrates. A little slender serpent, called baetan, spotted with black and white, is of a nature remarkably poisonous, the bile l)eing instant death. This region, or Africa, seem* <> the native country of the camel, emphatically -i v led by the orientals the ship of the desert; bo. •^-, by the expansion of its feet, the faculty of bearing tlurnt and hunger, and oihcr qualities, peculiarly adapted by the Author of nature to perambulate the sandy wastes which would otherwise remain impassable. Isi.Ks.] Socotra, abcut two hundred and forty British miles tVoni the southern coast of Arabia, appears in all ages to have belonged to that country, and to have been celebrated for the pro- duction of aloes, still esteemed superior to a.iy other. The inhabitants are clearly of Arabian extract. There are two bays, and some secure harbours; and the isle is also said to produce frankincense, while ambergris and coral are found in the neighbouri.ig seas. The isle of Ba'irein is in the Persian gulf, near the Arabian coast, and remarkable for the great pearl iisliery in its neighbourhood. w • The Kochlani are ni-ither liirgii nor beautiful, nor is their figure at all regarded ; .heir rare and hen^ditary (tua- litiee being the solo objects of estimation. They are chielly reared by the Ucdouiiis, in the northern deserts between I'criiia and Syria. The preservation of the breed is carefully ASIATIC ISLANDS. THE ISLES OF SUNDA. Sumatra is a large island, being about nine hundred and fifty English miles long, and two hundred broad. The EngUsh settlement of Hencoolen, in the S. E. part of this island, is a valuable possession. A chain of mountains runs through the whole island, the ranges being in many parts double and treble; but their height is not so considerable as to retain snow. Mount Ophir, immediately under the equinoctial line, is thirteen thousand eight hundred and forty-two feet above the level of the sea. There seem to be many mines of gold, though mostly neglected ; and the copper is mingled with that metal. There are excellent ores of iron and steel ; and that rare mineral, tin, is one of the chief exports, but prin- cipally found near Palimbang. The gold found near Bencoolen is of inferior quality. Mr. Mars- den says, there are inland races, of whom the Googoo, are covered with longhair, and are little superior to the Ourang Outangs of Borneo. The most abundant articlt of trade is pepper, the object of the British settlement; it is produced bv a climbing [liaut resembling a vine. The white pepper is procured by stripping the outer husk frou the ripe grains. Laws are unknown, the chief ri'iidoring judgement arcording to cus- tonv Most c 'uos are compensated by money, murdiT not exttptcd. The kingdom of Acheen, in th' \. \V . extremity of the island, carries on a considerable trade with the coast of Coro- mandel. Java is '^utut six hundred and fifty English miles 111 > and one hundred broad. This island is rcma ...ible for the city of Batavia, long the capital cf the Dutch possessions. Batavia is strongly fortiticd with walls, and a citadel to- and authentioal'y witnesi>ed ; and the oflspring of a Koch- lani stallion with an ignoble niare, is reputed Kadinhi. The Arabian steeds arc sometimes bouglit at e.xcesiiire rates by tha EngUilk at Mocha. \vardt Si 'i^M f I' i I- Hi §■ i .ii S42 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD, wards the sea. The town is large and well built. In this town arc an assemblage of people of all nations. The air is extremely unwhole- some from fetid fogs and other causes ; so that d}'sentries and putrid fevers destroy prodigious numbers. The existence of the Upas, or Poison Tree, is now sufhcicntly refuted. BoiiNEO, long reputed (he largest island in the world, is about nine hundred miles loi":, and six hundred broad. The interior parts of this greoi islano' arc but little known, and the greater par* of (he northern side next the sea, consists of swamps cohered with forests of [trees of number- less species and great sizes, which penetrate for scores of miles towards the centre of the island. The natives in the interior are blacks, with lung hair, of a middle stature, feeble and inactive , but tbtir features are superior to those of negroes. European settlements have heen unsuccessful, the ad\enturcrs having generally been massacred. Popper abounds in the interior, with the gum called Dragons hlood, camphor, ^nd sandal wood. Gold is found in this island, and also diamonds, but these are inferior to those of Gol- conda. The Ourang Outang abounds. The natives, who bring the golddustdowntothecoast, are tatooed blue, with a small wrapper about the loins. The chiefs extract one or (wo of the fore teeth, substituting others of gold; ahd strings of the teeth of tigers, a real badge of courage, are worn round the neck. The town cailcd Borneo, on the N. \V. consists of about three thousand floating houses. The Chinese frequent this town for the sake of trade. THE MANILLAS, OR PHILIPPINE ISLES, Were discovered by Magelhaens in ir/21 , who called them the Archipelago of St. 1 i/aru^ they were afterwards styled Philippines, in honour of Philip II. of Spain. LtzoN, the largest, is about five hundred miles long, by one hundred broad. Spanish jea- lousy has hitherto pre\ ented much knowledge of this island. Gold, copper, and iron, are among (he certain products; and (he soil is repor(ed to be uncommonly fruitful. The natives, who are of a mild character, are called Tagals, and s?cm of Malay origin. The houses are of bamboo, covered with palm leaves, rai.sed on pillars to the height of eight or ten feet. The chief food is rice and salted liDh. There are several volcanoes, and earthquakes are not unknown. The city of Manilla is well built and fortified. The Manilla ships, or galleons, were formerly of great size. but latterly smaller vessels have been used. Next in size is Mindanao, a beautiful and fertile island, of large extent. Theotherrhit ; Philippines are Pulawin, Min- dora, Pani, Buglas, or isles of Negroes, Zebu Lcita, and Samar. THE CELGBEZIAN ISLES. Celebez is about six hundred miles long, but on account of its various indentions cannot be reckoned above sixty miles broad. This island i') lofty and mountains ; and the natives, callr'! Macassars, often degrade themselves by acts uf piracy, attacking vessels with surprising des- peration. the spice islands and the Moluccas: GiLOLo, the largest of the Spice Islands, ig about two hundred and thirty miles long, but variously indented by bays of (he sea, so tliut its breadth seldom exceeds forty miles. The hrcHcl- fruit tree is frequent here, together with the jago. The natives arc industrious, particularly in weaving. Ceram is about one hundred and ninety milps long, by forty broad. Here are vast quantities of clove trees, and whole forests of jago, wbicli form a considerable article of export. BouRo is about ninety miles hmg, and fifty broad. The interior mountains are so lofty hs to be sometimes descried at the distance of twenty- eight leagues. Green ebony, and a kind of iron w(K»d, are mentioned among (ho trees. The oilier Spice Islands are Mortray, Mysol, and Oubi; but of (hcse little is known. The ^Moluccas, strictly so called, are in the western extremity of this gronpe, and Ambo\na and Banda in (he south. The Moluccas are Ternat, Tidore, Motir, Makian, and Batchiiiii. The Dutch and English formerly shared the pro- duce of these islands, the former having two- thirds, and the latter one-third of the trade; hut the Dutch, not liking a competitor in the bene- tits ;iri-iiiig from the sale of the commodities, forged a plot of the English against their livea an! liberties, and put them to death by the most exquisite tortures that hell itself could invent. The clore abounded in Makiao) but the growth was NEW HOLLAND. Si'S «gg afterwards confined by tlie Dutch to Am-- boyna. The islands of Amboyna and Banda ^vere taken without resistance in February and IVlarcb, 1796, by the English admiral Rainier; vfhen it was found that the annual produce was aboutonehundredandsixty.threethousandpounds of nutmegs, and forty-six thousand pounds of Mace *. NEW HOLLAND. This amazingly large island, if it be so, is about two thousand seven hundred and thirty English miles long, from E. to W. and one thou- jaod nine hundred and sixty miles broad, from N. to S. The eastern coast having been care- fully explored by Captain Cook, and justly ap- pearing of great importance, was formally taken possession of in the name of the king of Great Britain in 1770. On the close of the American war, it being difficult to select a proper place of transportation for criminals sentenced to that pu- nishment by the laws of their country, this new territory was at length preferred, in 1786, and the first ship sailed from Spithead, on the ^Oth of January, 1787, and arrived on the 20th of the same month in the following year. Botany Bay being found to be a station of inferior advantages to what were expected, and no spot appearing proper for the colony, it was immediately resolv- ed by Governor Philip io transfer it to another excellent inlet, about twelve miles farther to the north, called Port Jackson, on the soiith side of which, at a spot called Sidney Cove, this settle- ment is now fixed. Port Jackson is one of the noblest harbours in the world, extending about fourteen miles in length, with numerous creeks or coves. Difficulties with regard to subsistance, and some unexpected misfortunes, attended the new colony, the sheep being stolen, and (he cattle wandered into the woods. A space of about fifty miles around the colony had been explored, and two rivers called Nepcan and L'awkesbury, and some mountains, had been dis- covered, 'the cattle were found grazing in a re- mote meadow, in 1795, atller they had been lost fur seven years, and had iiicreased to a surprising degree. The most recent accounts seem to au- * From 179G to 1708, the Englihli Kast>India company impurted eight hundred and seventeen thousand three hun. (]r«l and twelve pounds of clorci, ninety-three thousand scTcn hundred and thirty.two pounds gf nutmegs, and Vot. n. No.cxxvn. thenticate the flourishing state of the colony. The mode ofcultivation has been improved, coal and rock salt discovered ; and there is room to expect that this vide territory will not be found deficient in the usual riches of nature. From the account of the various navigators, there is room, to infer that this extensive tract is peopled by three or four races of men, those oberved in the S. W. being described as different from those in the N. and both from those in the E. with whom alone we are intimately acquainted. These arc perhaps in the most early stage of society which has yet been discovered in any part of the globe. They are merely divided into families, the senior being styled Be-ana, or Father. Each family or tribe has a particular place of residence, and is distinguished by adding gal to the name of the place ; thus the southern shore of Botany Bay is called Gwea, and the tribe there Gwea-gal. Another tribe, numerous and muscular, has the; sirigular prerogative of extracting a tooth from young men of other families, the sole token of go- vernment or subordination. No religion what- ever is known, though they have a faint idea of a future existence, and think their people return to the clouds, whence they originally fell. They are of a low- stature, and ill made; the arms, legs, and thighs being remarkably thin, perhaps owing to their poor living on fish, the only food of those on the coast, while a few in the woods subsist on such animals as they can catch, an4 climb trees for honey, flying squirrels, and opossums. The features of the women arc not unpleasant, though approaching to the negro. The black bushy beards of the men, and the bone or reed which they thrust through the cartilage of the nose, gives them a disgusting appearance ; which is not improved by the practice of rubbing fish oil into their skins, as a protection from the air and muskitos, so that in hot weather the stench is intolerable. They colour their faces with white or red clay. The women are marked by the loss of the two first joints of the little finger of the left hand, as they were supposed to be in the way when they coiled their fishing lines. It is however not improbt\ble that this practice, and the extraction of a tooth from the boys, may be forty-six thousand seven h mdrcd and thirty pounds ot mace, besides private trade, amounting to about a third pari of the above statement. .■ . - 9H mere H! If y* ,H I • i\\^ ■r|t" 41ii' 844 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCttlPTlON OF THE WORLD. mere initiations, rude lessons, that they may learn to bear pain with apathy, The children are sel- dom disfigured except by accidents from fire; and their sight is surprisingly acute. Some are nearly as black as African negroes, while others exhibit a copper or Malay colour, but the hair is long, not woolly like the African. Their noses are Hat, nostrils wide, sunk eyes, thick brows and lips, with a mouth of prodigious width, but the teeth white and even. Other large islands are Papua, or Nkw Guinea, about one thousand two hundred miles long, and three hundred broad ; Nkw Biiitain, New Ireland, the Solomon Isles, New ('ale- ponia, the New IIkrkidks, New Zealand. Besides these are, 1. The Pelew Isles. 2. The Ladrones, so called because the natives manifest great propensity to thieving. 3. The Cabo- MNEs. 4. The Sandwich Isles. 5. The Mar- ^uisAs. 6. The Society Isles, so called in ho- nour of the Royal Society of London. H. The Friendly Isles. AFRICA. This Continent is, after A sia and America, the third ill size; but in political estimation, is the last and meanest of the four great divisions of the earth. From the southern extremity to the Me- diterraiK^an, are about four thousand two hun- dred geographical miles, and the breadth, at the equittor, is about four thousand one hundred and forty geographical miles. The actual population of Africa does not, according to the most au- thentic accounts, exceed thirty millions. In the central parts on the south, the population ap- pears to be indigenous and peculiar, these being the native regions of the negroes, whose colour, features, and hair, distinguish them from all the other races of mankind. In the northern parts the Egyptians and Abyssinians are of Arabiau extract. The original inhabitants of the northern parts appear to have been, in all ages, radically distinct from the negro race, from whom they were divided by the Desert of Zaara ; and in the eastern parts the latter were still farther repelled by the Arabian colony which settled in Abyssinia. Africa has the Mediterranean on the N. the Red Sea, and the Indian Ocean on the E. and the Atlantic on the W. The chief river hi'hcrto discovered is the Nile which rises in the Jeoel el Keemr, or mountains of the Moon, in a district called Donga, N. lat 8^. Its comparative course is about two thousand British miles. In its course the Nile forms some considerable cataracts, the principal being that of Geanadil in Nubia, before it gains the level of Egypt, after passing some rapids to the S. of Sycne. The water is muddy; when it overflows of a dirty red ; and cloudy even in April and May. The river begins to rise about the iy(h of June, the Abyssinian rains having begun in April, and it ceases in October. It abounds with fish. The crocodile is at present resiricttd to the south of Assiyiit. The other chief rivers are the Niger and the Gir, the course of each being about one thousand Englisli miles. That of Se- negal is also considerable. In the southern parts Zuhiror Burbela of Congo, and the Zambezi of Mocaranga, are the most considerable yd kuowu. The mountains of Atlas attracted the particu- lar observation of the ancients, who fabled that they supported the firmament; and derived from them the celebrated appellations of the Atlantic Ocean, and the Atlantic Isles. From the accounts of some French mineralogists, who have visited the Atlantic range, the structure is granitic and primitive. The mountains of the Cape of Good Hope seem principally of blue slate, siliceous sand-stone, and granular quartz, interspersed with large masses of granite. But the most striking feature of Africa con- sists in the immense deserts which pervade uiaiiv parts of that continent. Of these the chief is that called Zaara, or the Desert, and stretches from thf; Atlantic Ocean, with few interruptions, to the confines of Egypt, a space of about two thousand five hundred geographical miies, bv a breadth of seven hundred and twenty. The, principal states of Africa have been de- scribed in a former part of this work*; so that little remains, but that we give a description of the Cape of Good Hope, the islands of Mada- gascar, BourboD, Mauritius, and a few others. THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. Little was known by the English of the extent of the territory belonging to this colony, till their recent conquest of it, when it was found to be five hundred and ftfty Engjish miles long, and * Sec Sonioi's Trarcls, toI. i. p.. 1, and those of Mu 'irk, p. 73. m^,mm'iPtivifi»t'-n-K^-:'-r'ttrtft-v.*'r^' r-v t Africa con- pervade mail} e the chief is and stretches interruptions, of about two J allies, bv a ty. lave been de- •rk*; 80 that description of ds of Mada- a few others. I of (he extent I colony, till it was found h milea long, and •tKvtT**! ^•'^fAtH'l'^--— lis the Nile, )r mountains "ga, N. lat. wo thousand 3 forms some beingrthatof the level of o the 6. of it overflows, n April and tthciyihof »g began ill bounds with restricted to ief rivers are )f each being That of Se- )uthern parts the Zambezi siderablc yet the particu- | 'j| fabled that derived from ■ (he Atlantic 1 the accounts ) have visited granitic and Z!ape of Good late, siliceous iii(ersperscd fi i Loaa na ruKummtl vefj. (A9 fi-j.ttral ). ■• l» :1 li ' ■ I .i; ('', ^1 ■I L E »t i»y. AMERICA. 845 f.iiri ^tt^r ind t^o liundrpd and lhirt)-threc broad. To the §. E. of Cape Town arc suinc small vineyards, which yield the noted wine called Conbtantia ; and even in remote districts there arc plantations of various kindK: but large tracts arc irrecovera- bly barren. The country is more fertile towards the Indian Ocean, than towards the Atlantic, a character which seems to apply to Africa in ge- neral. The chief resorts of trading vessels are False Ray, on the S. and Table Bay, on the N. W. which opens to Cape Town. There arc ioine wolves and Hyenas, and various kinds of antelopes; and, among birds, eagles, vultures, kites, crows, .turtle doves, &c. Mtirc inland are kII the '^.vild and ferocious animals of Africa, and hippopotami abound in the rivers. MADAGASCAR. This noble island is about eight hundred and forty geographical miles long, by about two hun- dred and twenty broad, being esteemed one of the largest islands in the world. The scenery is strikingly grand and picturesque, diversified with precipices, cataracts, and immense forests. Many of the most valuable minerals occur, among wliich are beds of pure rock crystal, often used for optical purposes, and erroneously called Bra- zil pebble; and it is said three kinds of gold ore, with topazes, sapphires, emeralds, and spotted jaspers, commonly called blood stones. The French settlement of Fort Dauphin is in the S. E. extre- mity of the island, and the French are chiefly acquainted with the southern part. Almost all the villages arc built upon eminences, and sur- rounded by two rows of strong palisades, within which there is a parapet of earth, four feet in height, and sometimes there is a ditch, ten feet broad, and six deep. Their chiefs arc only known by their red caps, worn by the common Moors. Their authority is inconsiderable, yet they are sometimes regarded as proprietors of the land, and receive a small quit rent. „ .,,\ _ i MAURITIUS, OR ISLE OF FRANCE. The island of Mauritius, long known as a * An Ice Island was seen from the ship tEoIus, at .*? I'.M. July 9, 1809, in lat. 51" 36'. S. and Ion. 130". W. The island was between two and three hundred feet above the level of the sea, and about three nules in circum- ference. Although at the time it blew a Tioleat gale of 3 French settlement, is situated io tlie E. of Mada- gascar, and is well known in the commercial world. It has a tolerable port, and is the centre of the oriental force and commerce of the French. It was first possessed by the Dutch, who aban- doned it in 1712, and the French settlement be- gan to acquire some stability under Bourdounais, in IT.'M. There arc two crops every year of wheat and Indian corn, but manioc is the food of the negroes. ISLE CP BOURBOX. This island, colonized in 1054, is likewise on the E. of Madagascar, and is about one hundred and fifty miles in circumference, of a circular form,risingto high mountains in the centre, There is a noted volcano, diiticult of access, at thcsuiu- mitofamountainaleag'Ue from the sea : the erup- tions are frequent and continual. It produces sugar canes, and the cattle arc numerous. In 176G, M. Poivre was governor of the isles of Mauritius and Bourbon: he was of great benetit to the settlement, by the introduction of the bread-fruit tree, and also of the nutmeg aiid cin- namon. The isle of Bourbon was, since the French Revolution called Reunion; but of late has been called the Isle of Bonaparte. This island was taken by the English in July, 1810, with one hundred and twenty pieces of cannon, besides a large quantity of shot, shells^ cartridges, and powder. > -iv AMERICA. The length of America, from the 72d degree of N. latitude, to Cape llorne*, the southern point of land in Terra del Fuego, or the 56th degree of S. latitude, is a space of one hundred and twenty eight degrees, or seven thousand six hundred and eighty geographical miles, or about eight thousand eight hundred and ninety-six English miles. The breadth of North Aaierica is about three thousand eight hundred and forty geographical miles, or four thousand four hun- wind, with a tremendous hollow sea, it seldom broke over the lowest part of it, the island was therefore .ibout five hundred feet under the water. It had a grand, thougli awful appcaraucc. .!■• .'ii:'->' I . s'l .'/' .1 .' •.> ,; ;. .. •. > .1 drcd 845 GEOCnAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. dred and fifty English miles; and that of South AoiMica is about two thousand eight hundred * The first discoTcry of America is generally ascribed to Christoval Colon, or, as he is commonly called, Chrlsto> pher Culiimbus. In 1402 he sailed from Spain, in quest of (ho new world, on Friday the 3d uf August. Ou the Ist of October he was, by his reckoning, soTcn hundred and seventy leagues W. of the Canaries, llh men began to mutiny, a>>d he r is forced to promise to return in three days, if land did ..ot appear. Fortunate presages arose, a.s land birds, a cane newly cut, a carved piece of wood, and the branch of a tree with fresh red berries. These and other symptoms induced Colon to order the ships to lie to in (he evening of the 11th of October, in the certainty of see. ing land on the approach of day>light. The night was passed in gating expectation ; and a light having been ob. served in motion, the cry ot land! land! resounded from the hcad.most ship. With tho dawn of Friday, October \% a beautiful isle appeared, two leagues to the north. 'J'e Deiim was lung with shouts of exultation, and every wark of gratitude and veneration to the admiral. Colon "was the first who landed, to the great amazement of the na. tivcs, who regarded their visitors as children of the sun, the astonishment on both sides being indescribable. Thi» first discovery of Colon he called San Salvador, but it is now better known by the native name of Guanahani (the Cat island of our mariners) being one of tho groupe called the Hahama isles. Colon soon afterwards discovered Cuba and St. Domingo. After visiting the Azores on his return, hoarrived at Lisbon on the 4th of March, 14U3. 140.'>. The second voyage of Colon, 25th September. Steering more southerly, he discovered several of the Ca. ribbce islands, founded a town in St. Domingo, being tho first European settlement in the new world, and did not re. turn till 1490. 1498. Third voyage of Colon toward the south-west, ivhcre he expected to find the Spice Islands of India. On the Ist of August he discovered an island, which he called Trinidad, not far from the mouth of the river Oroonoko. From the estuary of this river lie judged that it must (low through a country of immense extent; and he landed in several places on the coast of (he continent now called Paria. Ho then returned to Hispaniola, or St. Domingo ; and in October, l.SOO, was sent back to Spain in chains ! 1490. Ojeda, an ofiic^r, who had accompanied Colon in his second voyage, sajis to Auierica with four ships, but discovered little more than Colon had done. One of tho adventurers was Amerigo Vespucci, a Florentine man of science, eminently skilled in navigation, who perhaps acted as chief pilot. On his return, Amerigo piiblish«d the first description that had yet appeared of any part ol the new continent: and the caprice of fame has assigned to him an honour above the renown of the greatest conquerors, that of indelibly impressing his name upon this vast portion of the earth. ISOO. On his voyage to the East Indies, Cabral, the Portuguese admiral, discovered Brazil. 15U2. Fourth'Voyagoiof Colon, in wbicli he discovers a great part of thu continent, and particularly the harbour of Porto-bello. 1513. Vasco Nugnez de Balboa descried, from the moun- tains of tbe isthmus, the grand Pacific Oceaa; and he after. and eighty geographical miles, or three thousand three hundred and forty English miles *. NORTH wards waded into the waves, and took possession of it ji, the name of the Spanish monarch. Thii discovery seems ti> have terminated the vain expectation that America furmcd part of Asia. It scorns unnecessary to trace with minuteness the otiicr epochs of discovery in this quarter. In 1515 the cuntiMi!nt was explored as far as llio do Plata ; but even in 1518 liith; was known concerning its western parts ; and twenty. .sin years had elapscd'sincc tho first voyago of Colon, before the cxistcnco was rumoured of the empires, or kingdums of Mexico and Peru. Hispaniola and Cuba still cuniinm-d to be the chief scats of the Spanish power. In 1519 Cortiv, with eleven small vessels, containing six hundred and se. ven teen men, proceeded to the conquest of Mexico, ^liidi was accomplished in 1521. Magalhaeus, :> tho same time having explored the Pacific Ocean, theilisoovery (if tliu western coast of America became a nccessaiy couscqiunco. After many reports concerning tho riches of Peru, llmt country was at length visited in 1526 by Pizarro, in a ves. sol from Panama. In 1530 the conquest of Peru was be. gun by Pizarro, at the head of thirty>six cavalry, and one handred and forty.four infantry; and in ten years that cm. pirn was divided among his followers. In 1543 thu first Spanish viceroy appeared in Peru. In North America the epochs of discovery were more slow. 1497. Giovanni Gaboto, a Venatian, calud by the Fug. lish John Cabot, who had received a <'om vjssiun fruio Henry VII. in 1405, in the view of traciiii, a nearer pas. sago to India, discovered Newfoundland, so called by hU sailors ; and inspected tho American shore as far as Vir. ginia : but, this land forming merely an obstacle to his wishes, be returned to England. 1500. Cortcde Real, a Portuguese captain, in search uf a north. west passage, discovered Labrador. 1513. Florida was discovered by Ponce, a Spanish captain. 1534. Francis I. sending a fleet from St. Maloes, to establish a settlement in North America, Cartie (he com. mandcr, on tho day of St. Laurence, discovered the great gulph and river, to which he gave the name of that saint, In the following year he sailed about three hundred leagues up this noble stream to a great cataract^ built a fort, and called the country New France. 1578. Sir Humphrey Gilbert obtained a patent for sctliin; lands in America. In 1583 he discovered and took posset. sion of the harbour of St. John, and the country to the south, but was lost on his retnrn. The voyage of Drako round the world served to kindle the enthusiasm of the English ; and Raleigh obtained :i pj. tent similar to that of Gilbert. 1584. Two small vessels dispatched by Raleigh unfurtu. natcly bent their course to that country now called North Carolina, instead of reaching the noble bays of Chcsajifak or Delawar. These vcisels returned to England, with tw» of the natives; and Elizabeth assigned to this region the name of Virginia, an appellation which became lately ap- plied to the British settlements in North America, till it was confined to a differeqt country from the original Virginia. 683. Raleigh NORTH AMFHirA. 8i7 TTur— f were more NORTH AMERICA. THE UNITED ST^^TES. The territories of the United States are classed under three grand diviti) its, the Northern, the Middle, and the Soutlicrn. — The Northern States are, Vermont, New Hainpahire, Mussa- rliutettst Connucticut, and the small province of Kliode Island. The district of .Main, in this quar- ter, belongaito the plrovinceoClMussachusett's Bay, —The Middle States are, New-York, New Jer- sey, Pennsylvania, Dclawnr, and the tc'iritoryon the N. VV. of the Ohio.— The Southern States arc, Maryland, Virginia, Kentucky, North Ca- rolina, Georgia, and Tcnnussee, or the country south df Kentucky. — Louisiana is now regarded as a part of the United States. The United States are bounded on the E. by the Atlantic Ocean, and oh the W. by the Missis- sippi. On the N. an ideal line, pervading the ^rcat lakes of Canada, is continued along the liver St. Lawrence to lat. 45". not fUrS. of Mon- treal, when it passes due E. and follows a chain of mountains N. E. and afterwards diverges S. E. to the river St. Croix. On the S. an arbitrary line, about lat. 31". divides the United States from West and East Florida. The greatest length of th^ United States, (not including Loui- liana) is about one thousand three hundred Eng- lish miles, and its breadth about one thousand. The square acres are computed at six hundred and forty millions, and those covered with water ■ ■ — - 15h3. Raleigh sent a sinull colony, under the command of Sir Ricliiun C«rcn»ille, who settled In the isle of Roanoke, a most incftmmodlouk ahd useless station, ^vhencc they re. tNrned in 1.088. Raleigh made several unsuccessful attempts to eolunizo the country, and afterw.irds resigned his patent ro some nivrchsnts, who were contented with a petty traffic. At the death of Elizabeth, tG03, there was not one Hnj,'"'!nian settled in America; and the Spaniards and Por< :gursc alone hau .^•irmed any establishment on that taut contt.ient. The Teiiorable Hakluyt, anxi.'us that his countrymen thoiilii partake, of the bunctit of ruiuiiii.:, procured au usso. cialioii of men of rank and talents for thi^ purpose; and a patent was granted by Jan'iVs I. April 10, IWO.' Thii bay of Chesapcak was discovered in l(j:>7, and the first lasting settlement was founded at Jamis'J'pw n^ in utudem \ irginiu. Captain Smith, w ho afterwards published v*\ account of his voyages, displayed reniarkablts spirit and enterprizo; yet the colony was about to return to Knglaii ' when I^ord Uc. lawar arrive ind ouly a short (4ii)«>, yet his prudent conduct firmly estabii'^hcd the settle. went, " fn 15R5, Jnhn Davis, an experienced naTi>;ntor. visitrd (fan westiTii coast of (ireculand, and tHplotcd U41' oanu't Vol.. H. No. cxwin. being supposed fifty-one millions, so that (lii*ri> remains five hundred and eighty-nine millionb of »,crcs of land. The religionofthe United States is Christianity, and every sect is universally tolerated, ft wotild be useless to enumerate the various denomina- tions ; but about four-fifths are nioderale inde- pendents. . The government, by the constitution of 1780, is vesteu in a president and two councils. 'J'he president is chosen for the term of four year.'< ; and the senate or superior council consists of tuo senators from each state, chosen every six years. The president commands the army and nuvy, and can pardon oflrcnces, except in cases of im- peachment. The population was estimated in 1790, at three millions nine hundred and thirty thousand, ex- clusive of the inhabitants N. W. of the Ohio, supposed to be then twenty thousand. The po- pulation is supposed to be doubled every twenty years, in which case it now (1810) amounts to upwards of seven millions. Their manners and customs differ little from those of their British ancestors, except in a few particularities. They are, however, generally reserved . The language of the United States is English, with the admixture of some words from other languages, brought in by people who have mi- grated from different countries. The America n writers sometimes adopt expressions and idioms sea, called Daris's Strait. On another Toyago he proceeded as far north as the island jf Disko, and tjie opposite shores of (irecnland, wh'.cn no '.lamcd London coast. He also dis. coTcred Cumberland Strr^it; aud upon tho whole the thre* voyages of this navigator are of great consequence. His farthest point of disicuvcry appears to have l>ecn Sander- son's Uopc, lat. 7*2' ; whence turning to tho west, he wan imi)c>!fd by lieUls of ire. In 1SU7, Hudson made his first voyage ; and is said tw have proceeded along the coast of Greenland as far as ial. 82°. On the voyage of ItilO Hudson discovered the Straits which bear his name; and that inland sea, which has bees cdlled Hudson's Day. Iti I'CIG some public spirited gentlemen sent Captain Hilot to attempt a N. W. passhgc. William BufTin sailed with him as pilot: and this voyage it one nf the most !>iu. gular in the whole circle of geography. Far exceeding the utmost stretch of Davis, they discovered Horn Sound, Cap* Dudley Diggs, Hakluyt Island, Sir Thomas Smith's Sound, Caxy's Itlanils, Alderman .Jones's Sou;. d, and Sir James Lancaster's Sound; all of them totally unknown tu any preceding or succeeding navigator; so I'int •>'.> was suspe ct. »:J tu beau iuipostur. 9 1 unknONVii )\\ Ini ■J 'I ! !■' h f^ jfl 848 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCttlPTION OP THE WORLD unknown to the British classics ; and it is sup- posed that in the course of eighty or one hundred jears, it will be adifleren* language. The manufuctnres of the United States may be considered as <4ti)l in their infancy, as the people were accustomed to be supplied from Great Bi'i- tain ; but the recent commotions in Europe have driven many able manufacturers to- America^ where machinery is particularly valuable, as the price of labour is very high, it is presumed they are rapidly advancing in the arts. The climate is remarkable for sudden transi- tions from heat to cold, and the contrary. In the northern states the winter is longer and more severe than in England> but the summer heat more intense. There are scver.\l large rivers, particularly the Mississippi, Ohio, Illinois, Uisconsin, Chi- pawy, St. Croix, the Great and Little Miami, the Wabash, the Great Kennaway, the Ken- tucky, the Green Riv^fj the Cumberland, the Tenassee, the Penobscot, Kehnebee, S ;Co, Me- rimac, Connecticut; the i>.'Iaware. the Susque- hanna, the Chesapeak, the Potomac, and James River. There are many great lakes, particularly those which form the noftliern boundary : and several of less extent. The forests arc so numerous and large, that they do not appear to have distin- guished them by particular names. in the province of Vermont is a curioiw stalac- ti(ic cave, in which, after a descent of one hun- vlred and four feet, there opens a spacious room about twenty feet in breadth, and one hundred HI length, with a circular hall at the farther end, at the bottom of which boils up a deep spring of clear water. Near Durham in New Hampshire, is a rock so poised on another, as to move with oneiiiiger; a natural remain of a ruined hill, though in England it would be called Druidicai. In the province of New York a rivulet runs under a hill about seventy yards in diameter, forming a beautiful arch in the rock ; and there is a st^lactitic cave, in which was found the pc- trcfied skeleton of a large snake. In the territory on the N. W. of the Ohio, the savannas, or rich plains, extend for thirty or forty miles without any tree ; they arc crouded with deer, wild cuttle, and turkeys, and often visited by bears and * Rhode hlnnd, which gives name (o the state, is about t)urt«cu Diitiis (u length, by fuur in breadth, witli a con* wolves: but this district is chiefly remarkable for a number of old forts, of an oblong form, widi an adjoining tumulus or tomb. As the Mexicans have a tradition that they passed from the north these forts may perhaps be remains of their first residence, or of some nation which they subdued. The n.itural bridge is a sublime and striking curi- osity, being a rock covered with soil and trees across a chasm, appearing to have been opened in the course of ages by a brook, which now runs between two and three hun<^red feet bencatli. The breadth of this bridge is about sixty feet ; and the thickness of the mass about forty. The chief islands belonging to the United States are Long Island, (the province called Rhode Island, being continental, with two or three small islands attached *,) and a few insular strips of land near the shores of North Carolina. The others, scattered along the coast, and in the various bays and lakeSj are of little consequence. Gritish Possessions. These are Canada, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Newfoundland, and tlic Bermudas. Those parts of North America which still be- long to Great Britain, are extensive, and of con- siderable importance, though so thinly peopled as not to contiain above two hundred thousand souls, of which by far the greater part are French' and nalives, and in such a disadvaii- tageeif" 'jlilnate, that they sink into insignificance, whon compared with the Spanish colunic , ;. ., ■. . •?.-. ■(.'■ \H\ I ,T IK', J . . .,.i . the 'U > i imarkable for ig form, with the Mexicans ova the nortli, of their first Ihey subdued, striking curi- soil and trees, been opened ^ich now runs feet bencatli. ut sixty feet ; forty. ) the Uni ihe nortb. The number of mines at work in the viccroyally of Buenos Ayres alone, amounts to thirty of gold *j twenty-seven of silver f, seven of copper, two of tin, and seven of lead X- The ancient Mciicans worshipped the sun, but they had no image of that luminary in their temples : they had, however, a great many idols, among whom Haloch, or Tescalipuca, held a distingnislied place. He seem" **>■ '.avc been their god of war. They are said to nave oftered human sacrifices to their idols; and the dress of their chief priest was a long robe and a crown ; and w4ien about to perform a sacrifice, he was always accompanied bya priest of an inferior order. At the commenccoient of a century the Mexi- cans manifested the greatest joy; and dances were exercised all over the country, in which the re- joicings exceeded every thing that the Europeans were acquainted with. The Peruvians acknowledge! one Almighty Being, whom they called Pactia-Camac; but as they did not see him, they seldom erected temples, or offered sacrifices to him : they worshipped Jiim in their hearts as the unknown God. They offered sacrifices to the sun ; and these sacrifices ronsisted of lambs, and other sorts of cattle, fowls, and corn, and even their best and finest * The cHcbratcd moiiiiUiti of Potosi has presented, for two centuries and a half, inexhaustible treasures of silver ; while the gold seems thinly scattered by nature, and has no ■where been discovered in snch enormous masses. This mountain, of a conic form, is about twenty Knglish miles in circumference, and perforated by more than three hun. drcd rude shaf's, through a firm yellow argillaceoHSschistiis. There are veins of ferruginous quartz, interspersed with what arc called the horu and vitreous ores. Of a peculiar dark reddish colour, this mountain rise« vuid '„>f all vegc(a> tion, blastod by the numerous furnaces, which ii the night /orni a grand spectacle. This surprising mine was discover, fd 1545, by Ilualpa a Peruvian, who in pursuing some champis jgoats, pulled up a busii, and behi:ld under the root that amazing vein of silver afterwards eiilleJ /« riat, or the rich. He shitrcd this discovery with his friend iluanca, who revoaled it to a Spaniard his master ; and the mine was formally registered 'Jlst April, l.^>i5. -f Another celebrated mine is that of mercury, indispcnsa. btc in amalgamating the precious metals. While Mexico ii supplied from Spain, Peru has the native product of (luaii. cavelica, a district and town nut far to the S. W. of Lima, Bear the great bend of the old Maranon. The cinnabar had cloathes ; all which they burned in the place of incense. One of their great feasts, called Raymi was held in the month of June, immediately after the summer solstice. This was also held in com- memoration of their feasi Inca, called Mar.'-ii Capac, and Coya Mama Ocla, bis wife and sister At this festival all the viceroys, generals, gover- nors, and other officers, were assembled, and the emperor, or Inca, officiated as high priest. So fond were the Peruvians of consecrated vessels that the Inca never drank out of a vessel vliicli had not been presented to the sun, and wiistlnij supposicd to have been blessed by that luminary ; the p'lrrorraancc of the ceremony of consecratinf; the .^nca's vessel being attended with great so- Icmnity. PoiiTUGUEsn Possessions. The dominions in South Amerira held bv llic Portuguese, extend from the frontier of l)utch Guiana to Port St. Pedro, a space of two thou- sand one hundred geographical miles ; and the breadth, from Cape St. lloque to the fa^the^t Portuguese settlement on the river of Amn/ons, called St. Paul de Omagua.s, equals that extent. This vast territory, rivaling the empires of anti- quity, is still more unknown than the Spanish possessions, partly from the want of scienre and curiosity, partly on a'.:count of the thick forests which cover the extersive plains of the Muranon, and its auxiliary streams. Though long in nl- been used by the Peruvians as a rod [Mint; and the quuk. silver was first delected about 1567. + Plalina is chiefly found in the mines of Choco and Bar. hacoas, in the vice royalty of New Grenada. Tin, accord. ing to Helms, is found at C'hayanica and Paria ; and there arc also several mines cf copper and lead. I'he cliief cup. |>er mine was at Arou ; but the colonics are m(>:>lly supjilirJ from the mines at Cuba. In the time of (he Incas, can'. raids were also common, chiefly on the coast >f M:iuta, and in the guvornment of Ataeames, where i': is said that tliirr arc mines which the Indians will nut reveal, as they mih'. encounter the labour of working them. The river of l',\m: raids flows from the Andes to the north of Quito; aiil others of inferior quality are found near Santa Fc Je liu. guta, . where are the chief modem mines of Peruvian nne. raids, justly preferred to all otticrs, since those of Ki!y|it have been neglected. Those found in thv tontbs are workid into sphoroi, cylinders, conci, and other Itgures, aiij pierce«l with ntc^t precision; but in what manner this w.is accomplished remains unknown. According to lllloa, rubies hare alio been observed in the jurisdictluu uf Cueofa. I' liance n the place of | called Raynii, mediatelj after 10 licid ill com- callcd Manca wife and sister. inerals, gover- nibled, and the 'gh priest. So iccrated vessels, a vessel \\\u^^\^ , and was thin that luminary ; of consccratitnj with great so- ONS. ica held by the ntier of l)utch ce of two thou. niles ; and the to the farthf.st erof Amazons, lals that extent. impires of anti- an the Spanish I of science ami he thick forests )f the Maranon, gh long in al- nt; ami thu quick. of CItoco find Bar. Jcfii. Till, acnnril. I Paria ; ami ihcrf d. 'I'he cliicf co| . irc mostly su[)|ili(J of (lie Intjis, cnic. oast >f Miiiila, and U is Ruid that there BToal, as they miu: Tlio river of V.im: rth of Quito; iint r Santa Fc dc liu. » of I'eruvidii oine. cc those of l\ijy|it tombs are workiil Dthor figures, anj tt maniter this w.is curdiog to Ulluu. he jurijdictiuii uf %■ liance I 11' fii ;,' !#«-«l*'> m *■ t i! SI !!■ If '.' I ^- >il I li! r«J#- * iU ;;ii «: m i| vW^ *^ > / A 11; I ii ■i I - if'. M^ 1 / 1 i |.i. ''i. \ WEST INDIAN ISLANDS. 851 liance with Portugal; we. have little precise knowledge of Brazil, and still less pfthe interior country t lied Amazonia. The chief city of Brazil was formerly Bahia, or San Salvador, which has since yielded to Ilio Janeiro *. "West Indian Islands. These islands, so import;ant to comraerce, arc Cuba, St. Domingo, Jamaica, and Porto Rico, all of considerable extent; and followed by the distinguished groupe called the Antilles, Ca-. ribbce, or. Leeward Islands. To the south of this groupe is Trinidad,,. a recent English acqui- sition^ In (he N. E. ar^ the Binhama IsUnds, which are narrov and barren strips of land, for- merly frequented by pirates, till subjected by England. Cuba, is not less (hnn seven hundred E nglish miles long, but the medial breadth does not ex- ceed seventy. Such is the fertility of Cubu, that it may be regarded as a most important and flou- rishing possession. The quantity of sugar is con- siderable; and the tobacco is esteemed of more exquisite flavour than that of any other part of America. Among the products must also be I eckoned ginger, long pepper, mastic, cocoa, manioc, and alofs. There are mines of excellent copper, and gold is not unknown in the rivers. The forests abound with wiild cattle and swine; and among the trees are green ebony and raaho- j;;any. Ilavanna is the capital. St. Domingo, or Hispaniola, or Hayti. This island is about four hundred English mil^s long, by one hundred broad. Under the name of His- paniola, it wus^he first Spanish settlement in the New World. The French colony derived its origin from a party of buccaneers, mostly natives of Normandy, towards the middle of the seven- tc<^ntli fcntury: and the western part was for* uiutiy ceded to France by the peace of Ilyswic. * To IhiH place the ro^al family of Pprlngal, assisted by tlie Knglish, migrated, when the French niadu thrir a-p. pcarancu in great force at Lisbon, at the close of 18U7. 'J'hc harbour of Riu Janeiro is ca|iaciou8 and excellent; and surrounded by a fertile country. It is protected by the castle of Santa Cruz, erected on a huge rock of granite. Oil the Mest is the city of St. Sebastian, commonly called Kio di- Janeiro, built on a tongue of land, tiic hills and iocUk bcliiiid being crowned with woods, coiiveuls, hDUsry, and churches. On a •iraall isle are a dock yurd, magazine!!, and naval 8tore-hou" i.nhealthy, owing to the exhijatKinb from the primitive i.iUnd forests. Theij are manufactories of sugar, rum, and cochineal; and several districts proUueu cotton, indigo, ciJtlee, cacao or cliocolnte, rii-.-, pepiier, and'the noted Itra/ilian tobacco. The red or VikaiXX wuod, is the property of the crown. The natural history ha* been little explored; the circitnij:icent roeks are granitic, w hite, red, or deep blue, the last being of a close and hard texture. IT - s .,f II M! 9K ^H 852 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. Sir Joseph Banks, than which none can be more beneficial, or worthy of applause. Porto Rico is about one hundred and twenty English miles long, and forty broad. It is a fer- tile, beautiful, and well watered island ; the prin- cipal trade of which is in sugar, ginger, cotton, hides, with some drugs, fruits, find sweat-meats. In the northern part are said to be mines of gold and silver. The Caribbee Islands. This range extends from Tobago, in the south, to the Virgin Islands, in the north. The Caribbees are of remarkable fertility and commercial advantage. Their names are, Barbadoes, Antigua, St. Christopher's, St. Vincent, Dominica, Grenada, Montserrat, Ne- vis, Martinique, Guadaloupe, St. Lucie, To- bago, St. Croix, St. Thomas, St. John, St. Bar- tholomew, and St. Eustatius. The products and exports of all these islands are similar, consist- ing, generally, of sugar, rum, coffee, cocoa, indigo; and cotton. "■.■■■-■ The Bermudas, or Somer Islands. • THESEislands are situated in thirty-two degrees, twenty minutes, north latitude, andsixty-tive de- grees, west longitude from London. Their dis- tance from the Land's End in Cornwall, is com- puted at one thousand five hundred leagues ; from the Madeira's, about one thousand two hundred ; and from Carolina, in North America, three hun- dred. They are difficult of access, being, as Waller says, " walled with rocks ," they lie in a flustor, nearly in the shape of a shepherd's crook, and contain about twenty thousand acres. No part of the world enjoys a purer air, or raoretem- ])erate climate, or is more remarkable for health, and for plenty of flcHh, fish, poultry, fruits, herbs, and roots. This groupe of islands received their name from John Bermudas, a Spaniard, who dis- covered them in iJO.'i; and were afterwards call- ed the Somer Islands, from Sir George Somers, w ho lost bis ship on tiieir rocks, in the year 160U, in his passage to Virginia. The Lukayo's, or Bahama Islands. The Bahama Islands arc situated to the south of Carolina, between seventy-three and eighty- one degrees of west longitude, and twenty-one and twenty-seven degrees of north latitude. They arc very numerous, and twelve of them arc pretty large. These'were the. first lands which Columbus dis- covered in America, in the year 1492. Some of them, however, are mere rocks. The island of Providence has been planted and fortified by Great Britain some years, and is situ- ated in the seventy-eighth degree of West longi- tude, and the twenty-fifth degree of North lati- tude: it is two hundred miles east of the conti- nent of Florida. None of the other islands are inhabited; but the English have plantations up- on some of them. The soil exactly resembles that of Carolina. These islands, as above-mentioned, were the first fruits of Columbus's discoveries; but the English were unacquainted with them till Cap- tain Seyle was driven among them, in his passage to Carolina, in 1667. He then gave his own name to one of them; and when he was after- wards driven upon it a second time, he called it Providence. Ihis island, for a long time, was the resort of American pirates, after the En«lish had made a fruitless attempt to plant it, and the rest of the Bahamas, in the reign of Charles II. In 1718 these pirates were dislodged by Captain Woodes Rogers, who was sent out by govern- ment, and who erected a fort, and made a settle- ment in Providence, which has since improved very considerably. The Bahamas were taken by the Spaniards in the American war, but were re- stored to the English at the treaty of peace, in 17S3. Before the articles, indeed, were signed, Colonel Deraux had fitted out two privateers at his own expcnce, and had exerted himself so vi- gorously, that be compelled the islaod to sur- render. The returns of his captures were five gallies, eighteen pieces of artillery, and five or six hundred troops. Brief BRTKF VIEW OF VOYAGFS, &r. til Brief Vie to of Voyages of the fnincipal J^avigators not already mentioned. AS we have before, p. 846, given an account uf tits voyages of Christoplier Columbus, we refer our ieaders to that page, and shall pro- ceed with Sebastian Cabot's Voyage to Ai^erica. Sebastian Cabot, who was born at Bris- tol, in 1467, was employed by Henry VII. of England, together with his brother John, to make a voyage for the discovery of a-N. W. pas- sage to India. They sailed from Bristol in the Spring of 1494, and saw Newfoundland, to which they gave the name of Prima Vista, or First Seen. Gomu ashore on a small island on the coast, they gave it the appellation of St. John's, from its be- ing discovered on the day dedicated to St. John the Baptist. They then returned to England with three of the natives on board, made a re- port of their discoveries, and met with a gracious reception. Sebastian Cabot set sail again on the 4th of May, 1497, and sailed as high as 6T* SCy N. la- titude, proceeding from thence down as low as 56", and then explored the coast of America as tow as SS'*. This part of the continent, he ex- pressly says, was afterwards named Florida. His provisions beginning to fail him, he sailed back; and, touching at Newfoundland *, returned to England with a full cargo of the productions of the countries he had visited. Voyage of Ameuicus Vesputius. . Americus Vesfvtils was born at Florence, in 1454, and was employed by the king of Spain to sail on a voyage of discovery. He set sail from Cadiz on the 20th of May, 1497. He arrived on the coast of Paria, and sailed along it as far as Terra Firnia and the Gulf of Mexico : and, after an absence of eighteen months, he returned to Spain. Claiming to himself the honour of having discovered the continent, he gave name to the New World, which o\' right belonged to Culumbas. After a lapse of some montlis Vesputius sailed • Newfoundland was certainly the first of the English plantations ; and the spirit of enterprizc, to which the dig- coveriet of Cahot uare rise, pavod tho way to the naral power, the commerce, and thu glory of this kingdom. t The iohabitaati of tliis blauU were small ia stature, ilU on a second voyage He proceeded f o the Anf ille Islands, and theme to the coa°fs of Giiiiina and Veuezuela; and returned safelv to Cadiz in No- vember, 1500; bringing back w'th him tnanjK precious stones, and other valuable commodities, discovered in the course of this vnvuge. He was ungratefully treated by the Sp!tiii<^h court. Emanuel, king of Portugal, afterwards took him into'his service, and Vesputius set sail from Lisbon in May, 1501. In this voyage he dis- covered the Brazils, and explored !'ie coast as fac as Patagonia to the south. He then returned to Lisbon, after a voyage of sixteen months. His Portugueze majesty was so elated with this success, and so grateful to its author, that be gave him the command of six ships, and sent him again to prosecute his discoveries. His in- tention was to find a passage by the west to the Molucca Islands, but being detained five months on the coast of America by contrary winds, and his provisions beginning to grow short, he was obliged to return to Portugal. He died at Ter- cera, in 1514. II Voyage to the East Indies, . , ) By Vasquez de Gama. Don Vasquez de Gama, a Portugueze noble- man, was employed by the king of Portugal to sail on a voyage for the discovery of the East Indies. He therefore sailed from Belem on the 8th of July, 1497. After encountering various storms, in which they frequently despaired of be- ing saved, they entered a large bay on an island, to which they gave the appellation of St. Helena, from its being discovered on the day dedicated to that saint f. From St. Helena they sailed on the 16th of November, and in two days came within sight of the Cape of Good Hope, which they doubled on the 20lh. Having run seventy leagues beyond the Cape, the admiral entered a bay, to which he gave the name of Angra de San Bias. The favoured, and black. Whcu they spoke, thpy fetched their breath as it were sighing ; they were clothed in the skins of wild beasts ; and armed with stakes ^hardened ia the fire^ and poiated with tho horni of beasts. country I'i II. .t iS ii- 1 -U-- if;'l 854 GROOnAPHICAL DRSCRIPTION OF THE WOULD. coiinfry '\n (lie vicinil^ of (his bay appeared very fcrti'o/ and abounded with elephants and but- falot's. On leaving this place, they.wcre soon over- taken by a violent 6torm. On Christmas-day thoy saw land, to which (hey gave (he name of Terra de Natal. They then proceeded to a river flailed De los Reyes. They proseouted their voyage along a low flatr-oast, covered with large ftnd lofty trees, as far as Cape Corientes ; roilsing a sight of Soful-, which lay in their way; On the 2Hh of January they visited the country now called Guama : to a large river on (he coast, he ga\T (he name of the River of Good Signs; be-t oanse from the calico they produced for .sale, he apprehended he should soon reach the treasures of (he Ea&t. Prosecuting their voyage about a month longer, they discovered four islands, the inhabitants of which spoke Arabic ; they inform- ed him that their island was called Mosambique, and wtls subject to the king of Quiloa ; and that it contained a town peopled with merchants who fraded to India, and imported its valuable pro- ductions. After encountering various dangers, from the treachery of the Mohammedan natives, lie arrived at Mclinda, where hv found some Christians, and met with a more favourable re- ception. On the 'i2nd <>f April he left Milinda, and instead of sailing along the coast, as he Jiad liithedrto done, resolved to trust himself to the ocean. lie crossed a s^ea of seven hundred l<'dgu*s in twenty-three days ; and; on the 17th of May the coast of India opened Jo his view. Thifc wis the graiid object of his pursuit ; and the hills of Calicot wei^e pointed out l)y the pilot; De (iama was soon introduced to the /amorin of Calicut, and a good understanding prevailed be- tween them for some time, and a treaty of com- m'^rce was on the point of being agreed upon; but by the machinations of (he Moiiammedans the scheme was frustrated After this he was visited by ft person who «aid he was an Italian, and Spoke (he Italian languaare. This person being ri*pre«!enti*d as a pirate, De Gama ordered him (() be whipped, in order to obtain a confession of his situation and intentions. This punishment having no cfl'ect, lie inhumanly ordered him to be hoisted up by a ptilly, tn a most indecent and excruciating form. After he had been lifted up id (his maniH^r the fourth time, he confessed that tie was a Polish Jew ; and that Sabay, the sove- reign of Goa, meditating an attack on the Portu- gucze ships, liad sent him to learn their strength and jnode of fighting. He then carried him to Portugal, and he afterwards rendered essential services to the Portuguese. On the 5th of October, De Gama left the coast of India, and directed his course for Melinda, where he experienced the same friendly reception as he.had done in hiv passage i>ut. Nothing hap- pened worthy of remark (ill (he 26th of April, when (hey again doubled (he Cape of Good Hope, (hat grand barrier which had hitherto been regarded as the ;u jilus ultra of navigation, peGama at length arrived safely at Relem in Por- tugal, in, September, 1499, after a long voyage of two years >ind (wo- months, witli the loss of more (ban half his men. On his landing, every mark of honour was paid him, every demonstration of joy attended His discoveries : he was permitted to qua^tei- the royal arms, and had an annual pen- sion Of three thousand ducats assigned him. , til..' o . f ... i»H'>ij)i; t)gtli they reached the port of St. Lucar, on the 7ih of September, under the conduct of John Sebastian Camo, after circumnavigating the globe in three years and thirty-seven days. Of the whole squa- dron, only one ship returned to Spain, and of two liundred and thirty-four officers and seameq, the complement at setting out, only thirteen Spa;tiards reached their native land. VOVAGE ROUND THE WoRI.D, Bv Slit Fbancis Drake. Sir Francis Drake was the firstfngliah cir- cumnavigator. Having once had a pro.tpect of the great South Sen, he formed the project of sailing round the world, but h was not till the year 1577, that he bad collected a fbrce sufli- cient to man five tvessels, and, by a pretended royal authority, appeared as admiral of the squa- dron. The fleet consisted of the Pelican, the flag sliip, of one hundred tons burden; the Eli- zabeth, John Winter, vice-admiral ; the Mary- gold, commanded by captain Thomas ; the Swan, of fifty tons, captain John Chester; aiid the Christopher, of fifteen tons, which was com- mitted to the charge of one of bis carpenicr;. Tliese ships, partly fitted out at his own risk, and partly at theexpence of others, and manned with one hundred and sixty-four chosen seamen, sailed from Plymouth on the 15th of November, 1577. On the .5th of April, 1.578, they descried the coast of Brazil, and sailing southwurd, he entered the Straights of Mage llueps on the 20th of Au- gust. In this intricate and dangerous naviga- tion, they discovered an island, to which they gave the name of Elisabeth, in honour of the queen. On the 6th of September, after a pas- sage of sixteen days, Drake entered the greut South Sea, ii>tending to hold his course towards the equinoctial line. At length, atler having sailed to different parts of (he Pacific Ocean, and taking a great deal of plunder, be espied the Moluccas on the 3d of November. Tlie desires of the people were now for returning home, and he was compelled to steer for the Cape of Good Hope, which he doubled ou th« 15tli of June, and «niF.F VIKW OF VOYAOkS, ka. nr^'i and entered Plymouth harbour on September 26, IpSt). Drake bad spent Iwo ycarit, (en nionthg, Biid a few days, in this undertaking, uad returned with iiumense riche«. Tbe queen paid him a visit OD board his ship at DcptCord, and con- ferred on him the houour of knighthood *. Voyage round the World, By Thomas Cavendish. Captain Thomas Cavendish was the second English circumnavigator. Cavendish fitted out three ships, and having procured her Majesty's commission, left London on the 10(h of July, 1586 ; he embarked at Harwich, arrived at Ply- ro il I ' !! I ; Hi ih ■ m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V' ^ z I/.. 1.0 I.I 1.25 ^ 1^ III 2.2 t '- IIIIIM 1.4 mil 1.6 III ^^ ''^ s^ J^ #- ^ O Photographic Sciences Corporation M WfST MAjN street WEfc: ;f:»\N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 9 O^ '^ 858 GEOGBAPHICAL DESCRlPTiON OF THE WORLD. of four hunJrecf, and the other of two hundred tons, attended them. He reached Madeira in thirty-seven days, where he remained about a week, taking in water, wine, and other refreshments. Sailing westward, they discovered the coast of Brazil about the middle of December, and two days after anchor- ed otr the island of St. Catharine/ On the 18th of January, 1741, the expeditibn proceeded from the last amicable port it was intended to touch at, to encounter the danger of' boisterous seas. On the 4th of March they came in sight of Cape Vii^in, and on the 7th began to open the Straights, when Statenland appeared in view. It seemed entirely composed of inaccessible rocks, terminating in ragged points, rising to an amaz- ing htiight, and every where enveloped in snow. Here they experiented.the most dreadful tempests, which were rendered more mischievous from the manner of their approach; for, ifatanytimea momentary calm tempted them to spread their sails, io sudden was the ceturnof the wind, that it tore the sails to pieces before they could be furled. To increase the calamity, great quan- tities of. snow and sleet generally accompanied these storms, whith freezing on the rigging, made the coidage brittle and insecure; at the same tiine that the liinbs of the seamen were numbed by the intensity of the cold, and not a few had their toes and fingers mortified. After encountering a variety of violent storms, in which the fleet suffered materially, they reached Cape Noir, though they imagined they were ten degrees more westerly. Thecurrents had deceived Uiem BO much, that they had nut advanced more than half the way they reckoned. They then steered to the southward, and again had the mistnrtune to encounter the most dreadful storuis. Three days betbrc the discovery of land, the Severn and Pearl had separated, and were never seen after- wards ; whence they concluded they must have dashed on the shore in the night. On the t^4th of April, the wind again blew a perfect storm, and four other ships of the squadron separated, nor did any of them rejoin the commodore till his arrival at Juan Fernandez. In this tempest the Centurion had her sails rent to pieces, and most of her rigging broke.. Their evils seemed to be * When the ntiser4ble vietiins of disoaco sa>r the rcfpcta. birs and water, for which thoy panttd, within their view, it is impossible to dftcribo thu transputts they expressed. increasing till the 22d of May, when the fury oi' all the storms they had hitherto experienced, seemed to be united, and to huve conspired for their destruction. A boisterous sea gave her such a prodigious shock, that the ballast and stores shifting, threw her on one side, and they were in dread of imniediately foundering; but the wind abating, they were driven ashore on the island of Chiloe. This was the last storm they met with in this climate. At length they again saw the island of Juan Fernandez, but there were not more than ten foremast-men in a watch that were capable of doing their duty. Between seventy and eighty men tell martyrs to. this pro- tracted course at sea ; and it was jvith the utmost difficulty a sufficient strengUi coiild niq ipustered to bring the ship to anchor. Three months be- fore, the Centurion had between four and five hundred men in health and full vigour; but, by the distresses they had undergone, scarcely enough remained to man the ship *. It was not long after the Centurion^ had been secured in her destined station, before they dis- covered the Tryal sloop, and the commodore sent some hands to assist her in coming to anchor. Her commander informed him, that he had lost thirty-four men out of his small complement, and that only himself, his lieutenant, and three men were able to stand by the sails. He now erected tents on shore fur the reception of the^ick, when one. hundred and sixty-seven persons were landed, besides twelve or fourteen who died in the b«>ats before they could reach the shore. For the first ten or twelve days, they seldom buried fewer than six daily. On the 26th of June die} de- scried the Gloucester, and as there could be no doubt of her distressed situation, a boat laden with refreshments, was sent to her assistance. Never, indeed, wus a crew in more forlorn cir- cumstances. Already had they committed to the deep two-thirds of their complement, and scarcely one was capable of duty, save the oiUccrs and servants, The captain was undor the necessity of detaining the boat's crew, as he had not sufficient strength to navigate the ship ; yet, with all their exertion? they were a. fortnight in attempting to come in, without being able to fetch the road. On tlie 9th of July she was observed sailing to Even grass was oow estvciucd a delicacy, and eagerly devoured. the BWEF VIEW OF VOYAGES, &c. 8^y f and eagerly (heeast/and did not a^ain appear for a week, and it was apprehended she had foundered. On the 16th she was again seen making jignalii of distress, 'when the long boat was sii.c oft' with water and refreshments, with positive orders to return im- mediately ; but the weather proving stormy, it was three days before they had a sight of her again, when with difficulty she was towed into harbour by the cutter. The commodore now re- ceived the affecting news (hat the Gloucester had scarcely a man in health on board, except the few he had sent at first sight of her, and that the mortality was extreme. The Gloucester, how- ever, was unable to fetch the bay, and slie once more disappeared. At last, on the 33d of July, she was seen advancing towards the bay with a flowing sail ; when the commodore dispatching all his boats to her assistance, she was within an hour anchored by the Centurion. Her crew was by this time keduced to eighty, and the greater part of those 'A'ere deplorably ill. On the 16lh of August, after giving her wholly up for lost, the Anna Pink, their victualler, was discovered coming in. Each ship's company was immediately restored to a full allowance of bread, which had been suspended, from a presumption that they had no resources of this kind to expect. Only three ship? were now missing, the Severn, the Pearl, and the Wager store-ship. The Wager was wrecked. On the 12th of September, a sail came in sight, which proved to be the Nucstra Senora del Monte Carmelo, laden with sugar, cloth, cotton, and tobacco ; besides some trunks of wrought plate, and a considerable quantity of specie in dollars. This -;vas captured by the Centurion on the first fire. On the 25th, the Centurion saw two sail to the eastward, and givin;; chace, came close up to one, and hailed the chace in Spanish, on which Mr. Hughes, lieutenant of the Tryal, an- swered in English ; and informed him that this vessel was a prize to the Tryal, taken some days ago; that she was about six hundred tons bur- den, and had nearly the same kind of lading as the Carmelo. The Tryal sprung her main-mast, and was in other respects in great distress. The Tryal beiv.g looked upon as incapable of being repaired, her crew was put on board the Spanish prize, and the stores and valuables being like- * Paita was uefcndcd by an iticonsiderablo fort, and a garrison, which consisted of only .one weak company; Vol. II. No. 129. wise put on board her, the Tryal wa» scuttled and sunk. This new accession to tbti squadron was called the Tryal 's Priie. On the 5th of November, they captured th&. Santa Teresa de Jesus, a vessel of three hundred tons, bound from Guiaquil to Callao. Her cargo was not valuable to the English. On the lOth of November, the commodore being off Lobos, saw a sail, and sent Lieutenant Brett ta attack her: she struck on the first volley. of small shot, and proved to be the Nuestra Senora del Carmin, deeply laden with steel, iron, cedar, pepper, cinnamon, and other valuable commodities, th^ prime cost of which was more than four hundred thousand dollars. From the passengers they learned that a considerable quantity of radney was in the custom-house at Paita, which was to be shipped and sent off with all expedition. He . therefore determined to surprise that place the same night *. He selected fifty-eight men to aci against the force the Spaniards might bring to oppose them. Having landed, they marched to the governor's house and fort ; and the vocifera-' ■ tion of the sailors, the noise of the drums, and the darkness of the night, all served to make the enemy think their force much greater than it was : they therefore sought refuge in flight; and the English sailors, in less than a quarter of an hour from their first landing, were in possession of the place, with the loss of only one man killed, and two wounded. The next morning some of the treasure was sent on board the Centurion, and every exertion was made to collect and secure the whole. Many warehouses were likewise filled with rich commodities, which could not be re- ceived on board. On the fourth morning thejr conveyed the remainder of the treasure on board, together with several valuable effects ; after which lieutenant Brett set fire to the town, and retired with his detachment on ship board. The com- .raodore immediately prepared for sailing. At coming out of the bay he found six of the ene- my's vessels at anchor, one of- which being re- puted a prime sailor, he resolved to take with him. The rest were scuttled and sunk. The command of the new vessel was given to Mr. Hnghes, the lieutenant of the Tryal. The squa- dron, now augmented to six sail, weighed and stoou out for sea. The wrought plate and and the town was not able to arm above three hi ndrel meo. 9M ^ v coin I flii- hi' , I 800 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. coin amounted to thirty thousand pounds sterling, besides rings, bracelets, and jewels, whose value could not be dctermitird. The plunder that be- came the property of the immediate captors, was also very great; and, en the whole, this was the inost important acquisition they had made. Soon after they fell in with the Gloucester, wbose cap- tain informed them, that during his absence he had taken only two prizes, one of which had about seven thousand pounds in specie on board, while the other, though no more than a launch, carried treasure to the amount of twelve thou- sand, in double doubloons and dollars, curiously concealed in cotton. .J, After this they resolved to proceed to the north, io cruise for the Manilla galleon, which was known to be at sea, which they did not doubt of being able to intercept. Two of the prizes which bad been added to the squadron, proving heavy sailors, were ordered to be stripped and burned. Commodore Anson left Quibo, where he took in wood and water, on the 9th of December, and pext day took a small bark, laden with rock salt and oakum. The squadron then endeavoured to get to the northward of the harbour of Acapulco, and at ten at night, on the 28th of January, the Tryal's Prize made a signal for seeing a sail ."^ but this proved an illusion. He likewise learned that the Manilla sh'p he bad been in quest of, was got into harbour at Acapulco on the ISth of Ja- nuary, but that her departure was fixed for the 14th of March. Some time afte**, the Gloucester having lost her main-mast, sailed so heavily, that it was found impossible to keep her company without risking the lives of all. It was there- fore determined, to transfer her crew and treasure on board the Ceqturion, and then set the former on fire. She blew up when ihe commodore was about four leagu.es distant, and with her rn im- mense quantity of;va1uable goods was lost, which could not be carried off^ At length, after encountering the most irami- oe:nt dangers from storms, and various other cir- cumstances, for many nionths, they discovered Cape Espiritu Santo, on the 20th of May in the following jear, near which it was the commo- dore's intention to cruise, in expectation of uieet- "* This Taluable prize was named the Nostra Scnora do GabaJonga, commandcil by Dun Jcroiiimo do Mnntc.ro, a Portiiguexu officer of skill and courage. Sho carried five hundred and fiFly men, and thirty-six gunii, mounted for- acUon, besides patcrcrocs. In the action she liad sixty. ing with the Manilla ships. He crnised on (his station for about six week: without being able to discover the object of his search; however, on the first of July, at sun-rise, a sail was descried fFom the mast head. The Centurion immediately stood towards her, and, to the commodore's sur- prize, the galleon did not change her course, but bore down upon him. At one in the afternoon they were within gun-shot of each other, when An«- son,perceivingthattheSpaniardshad not yet finish- ed clearingtheshipsforaction, immediately order- ed'some of the chace guns tubefired, to. interrupt them in their engagements. The galleon return- ed the fire, and on the Centurion's making some dispositions for boarding, the Spaniards, by way of bravado, did the same. They were now with- in pistol shot, when the engagement commenced in earnest ; nor did the galleon shew the least symptom of fear. Soon after, the mats, with which, she bad stuffed her netting, taking fire, and blazing violently, filled the enemy with the utmost terror, and also alarmed the commo- dore, lest the should be consumed. The Spa* niards, however, at last, tumbled both the flam- ing netting and mats into the sea, to escape the horrors of a general conflagration. This acci- dent had a fatal effect on the galleon's crew, and in the mean time, the English plying them from their tops with small arms, which did amazing execution, killing or wounding most of the ofii- cers, they began i j fall into confusion, and to desert their quarters; and the officers having in vain tried to rally the crew, at last submitted*. At the very moment of exultation, the co«;imo- dore was seci'etly informed by one of the lieu- tenants, that the C«>nturion wa; on fire near the powder-room ; and without apparent emotion, he gave orders for preventing the dreadful catas- trophe, and providentially the fire was got under without n)aterial damage. He then proceeded to Canton in China, where he victualled his ship, and Ihcii sailed for Macao, where he sold the galleon for six thousand dol- lars. On the 1.5th of December, the Centurion got undc sail, and after wooding and watering at Prince's Island, they stood for the Cape of Good Hope, where they anchored on the llih seven men killed, and eighty-four wonnded ; while the Centurion only lost two, and h((d a lieutenant and sixteen men wounded, all of whom recovered', except one. Tho property on board tliis ptizo amounted to a million and a half of dollars. of BRIEF VII5W OF VOYAGES, &«. 861 of March. Leaving the Cape in the beginning of April, they caine in sight of St. Helena on the 19th of that month, and did not land, but conti- nued their voyage, and cast anchor at Spithead on the I5th of June, 1744. Thus, after a scries of the most extraordinary adventures, and dread- ful scenes of distress, they completed the circum- navigation of the globe in three years and nine months. The treasures taken by the Centurion were conveyed in many waggons, adorned with Spanish flags, from the sea coast to the metropolis, and safely lodged in the Tower, attended by the loud acclamations' of the multitude. The commodore was loaded with honours, and the humblest sailor was enriched. Voyage of the Honourable Commodore John Byron round the World. His present Majesty, George the Third, havr ing, early after his accession to the throne,' shown a love for science, and a zeal for discovery, an expedition was projected for the latter purpose to the South Seas ; and Captain Byron was se- lected as a' proper person to conduct it. This gentleman was appointed to the command of the Dolphin ship of war^ in quality of commodore; and the Tamar frigate. Captain MouaU, was commissioned to attend him. Those vessels be- ing equipped, ^et sail from the Downs on the Istuf June, 1764; but before they cleared the Channel the Dolphin ranagruund, without, how- ever, receiving any material damage; so that the commodore was able to prosecute his voyage by the 3d of July. He then shaped his course for Madeira, and anchored in Fonchiale Bay on the 30th; which plaoe he left on the I9th of Au- gust, and anchored in Port Praya on the 30th of the same month. Hk afterwards sailed to Rio Janeiro, which he quitted on the 16th of Octo- ber, and a few days after, explained to the crews the nature of their voyage, and the objects in view, of which they had hitherto been ignorant *. A violent storm overtook them on the 29th, dur- * As' a reward and a Uimulus to good bchaTioiir, such as distinguished themselves were, by order of the lords of the admiralty, to receive double pay, and other emolumuuts. f Among a variety of birds that ihey killed, was one that had aa eagle's head) with a large comb on it, and a ing the fury of which they were obliged to throw four of their guns overboard. On the 1 1th of November they had to encounter another violent storm, which nearly overset the Dolphin, and damaged the Tamar. After this tjiey steered for Cape Blanco, which they came in sight of on the 17th, lind in four days more entered the harbour of Port Desire. Proceeding higher up the harbour, they came to aniiUnd where they killed fifty seals, trnd found some of them nearly as heavy as English oxen f . On the 20th of the same month they ran close in shore to Cape Virgin, and came to anchor. Next day they sailed again, and observing a smoke on the shore, they came to an anchorage nearly opposite to it, at the distance of two miles from the beach. Here they descried a number of men on horeseback, riding to and fro, and wav- ing a white ensign, which was construed into an invitation to land ; and as he was anxious to have some intercourse with the natives, the commodore went in « boat, well armed, while the first lieute- nant followed in another. When they ap])roach- ed the shore, they calculated that the horse and foot aiaounted to about five hundred; but though they did not appear to have any weapons, nor to be hostijely disposed, the commodore thought it prudent to make signs to them to withdraw a little, while the party was landing, which they readily understood and complied with. The English being mustered on the beach. Mr. Byron singly advanced, and made signs to the Indians, that one of them should do the same. Accordingly one of their chiefs came forward, who was nearly seven feet high. One of his eyes was encircled with a streak of black paint, and the . other with white ; the rest of his face was paint- ed of various colouA; and the skin of a beast, with the hair turned inwards, depended from his shoulders. The commodore and Ihe Indian hav- ing made their respective compliments; which were mutually unintelligible, they walked to- gether towards the main br dy of the natives, few of whom were shorter thau . e chief, nor were the women of inferior proportion. Mr. Byron made signs for them to be seated, which being white ruff like a tippet round its neck. The plumage on the bark was of a glossy blackness ; the legs and talons were like those of an eagle, and the expansion of the wings was twelve feet from one extremity to the other. «dohej m ii i iit 11 Mi: i li! 862 GEOGBAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. done, they chaunted in a most plaintive and me- lancholy tone. The commodore distributed some yvhite and yellow beads among them^ which they gladly accepted. He then took a piece of ribbon, and putting the end of it into the hands of the first Indian, continued it along the line, as far as it would reach. This done, he cut it between every two with a pair of scissars, and tied the portion of each round his head, which no one attempted to remove. And though the presents were insufficient to allow each a share, no one attempted to press forward, or seemed to envy the superior good fortune of his neighbour. The inoflunsive Patagoniaiis wished the commodore to go with them to their huts, but he pointed to the ship, intimating that he must return ; where- upon they appeared greatly concerned; and when he took his leave, not one rose or offered to follow him. On the 23d of December they entered the Straights of Magelhaens; and on the 25(h, saw a j»()int of land near St. Qeorge's Island, which they named Porpoise Point. Having cast anchor here, the commodore went in quest of wood and •water, which they found in abundance. A fine champaign country lies over the point, the soil of which appeared to be very luxuriant. In a walk, however, of twelve miles, they found no place proper to land a boat, on account of a strong surf. On the 26th, they steered for Port Famine, and next day anchored close to the shore. Here they discovered drift wood enough to have supplied a thousand vessels. The com- modore pr'oceeded four miles up the river, when he found his course impeded by trees that bad fallen across the stream. The banks of this river were clothed with the nobljpt trees, which were sufficient to supply masts for the whole British navy. Some ^)f them were so large, that four men, joining hand in hand, could not grasp them. On the 4urs ; but the Florida uhuut this time rutiniiig aground, the strange vessel hoisted French colours, and dispatched two boats to her assistance. Tlie commodore now sent two cf his boats to the re- lief of the store-ship, with orders to make proper acknowledgements for the stranger's civility, but on no account to suffer them to board her. Ttie fitore-ship being gc if, they proceeded till night, when they again cast anchor, and the French ship did the same; but in a situation that shewed her ignorance of the channel. On the i9lh they proceeded on their voyage, the French vessel following them. On the 'JOth they reached Port Famine, and having taken out of the Florida as much provision as they could stow, they im- mediately dispatched her for England, and de- termined to navigate the other ships through the Straights of Magelhaens. On the SSth they passed the French ship as she lay in a small cove ; and it was not till the commodore's return to England that he found this suspicious vessel was the Eagle, commanded by M Bougainville. The commodore was seven weeks and two days in sailing through the Straights of Magel- haen&, and then bore away f')r the island of Ma- sasueco, but could not elfect a landing by reason of the violence of the surf. They, however, found a bank where they might anchor, and as the island abounded in goats, they killed a great number, whose ile:>h they deemed equal to the finest venison. On the 9th of Jime they discovered a low- lying island, covered with various kinds of trees, among whith was the cocoa-nut. The shore was begirt with a rock of red coral. The natives hav- ing first kindled large fires, ran along the shore armed in vast multitudes. The vessels now brought to at a small inlet, opening into a salt water lake of some extent. The ships advancing to the mouth of the inlet, some hundreds of the uatives, preceded by un officer, carrying a pole, with a piece of mat instead of a flag, ranged themselves up to the waist in water, making a * These Tcsscis coiisistod of planks sewed together, with a strip of tortoise-shull fixed over each scam ; tliuir bottoms were sharp and narrow ; and being double, they were fas> tcned with timbers so as to leave a space of six feet be* Vol. II. No. 129. hideous noise ; while a tiumber of c/nnes were brought down from the lake. Two boats having been sent out in quest of soundings, the nutivea approached, and attempted to draw them oa shore, though the crew3 made every demonstra- tion of friendship. Several of (he Indians swana towards the 8hi|)s; one of them sprang into the Tamar's boat, and snatching up a jacket, imine- iliately jumped into the sea: another attempted to steal a hat, but lost his prize through igno- rance, pulling it downwards instead of upwards. They then sailed westward, and soon discover- ed another island, distant four leagues. The In- dians pursued their course in two double canoes, each carrying thirty armed men, and as the ships' boats were greatly exposed to their insults, the commodore made a signal for them to begin tbo attack, when the natives instantly rowed away, being pursued by the English. They then armed themselves with stones and clubs, asif determined, like brave men, to defend their country against invasion; but the boats' crews firing, killed two or three of them, one of whom did not fall till he had received three balls through his body< The boats then brought oif the two canoes ai trophies of their victory *. On the l!^th of June they sailed from this in- hospitable island to another ; and as they coasted along it, the natives in arms observed their mO' tions. The boats being near the beach, the crew made signs that they were in want of water, on which the natives pointed farther along the shore. When they arrived at the spot, they saw a number of houses, and many rndians. As the boats were close in with. the shore, atid the ships at a small distance, a venerable old man, with a white beard,- advanced to the beach with a young attendant. Having made a signal for the other Indians to retire, he came forward, prcssiiig his beard to his breast with one hand, and extending the branch of a tree in the other. In this attitude he began a kind of musical oration, during which the people in the boats threw some trifling presents, which he would not deign to touch till he had finished his harangue. This being done, be threw the- branch towards the boat's crew, and then picked up their presents. Most of the na- tween the two canoes; while a sail, formed of a mat, reached between a mast fixed in each. The cordage ap. pcarcd to be composed of the external covcriDg uf th«: Gouoa-nut, and was exquisitely made. 9N tiVet 1) h i h\v.i,\ Hl^ .ii m m ; Hi! i6i GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLD. tives havin^^ consented to lay down their arms, oneofllie iiiidshipnien swam on shore, where he was soon surrounded by the Indians, who ad- mired his dress, and seemed particularly pleased with his waistcoat. To gratify them, he made one of them a present of it ; but another untying his cravat and runniiig away with it, he thought it prudent to retreaf The natives soon followed him in an amicable manner, bringing each a cocoa-nut, or some water in a shell. Both this and the laat-mentioned island, the commodore named, out of: respect to bis sovereign. King George's ItiMulii i : Tl«e noB^ilKfiitbey discovered another island, which vtas well peopled, and appeared beauti- fully verdaiit and fertile ; but a violent surf beat on every part of the coast. This they named the Prince of Wales's Islan^. On the 34th of June they discovered another island, which they named the Duke of York's. This island had a most alluring aspect, but appeared to be uninhabited. Oo'the 2d of July they discovered a low flat island, abounding with cocoa-nut and other trees, and aflbrding a most agreeable prospect. To this place the ofliceri ^ave the name of Byron's Island, in honour of the commodore *. On the S8th of July they came in sight of Saypan, Ti- nian, and Aguigan ; and about noon on the last day of that month, anchored at Tinian, in the same station Anson had done before. Saypan is larger and more pleasant than Tinian. He left Tinian on the^^h of September, and anchored off Timoan on the 5th of November, which is in- habited by Malays. He next came to anchor iii the harbour of Puio Toupoa. On the 19th he fe\i in with an •English snow, bound from Ben- coolea for , Malacca and Bengal. By this time their biscuit was rotten and filled with worms, and the beef and pork were putrid. The master of the snow being apprized of this misfortune, ■cnt the commodore two gallons of arrack, a turtle, twelve fowls, and a sheep, which it is conjectured was half his stock, and he generously refused to accept the smallest return. The same ■ i> i~ ~"" "" * Above sixty canoes adf^t\ai/i from this island, and formed a circle roand tlie ship, which after thsy had lei. SHrely siirTcyed, one of the Indians jnmppd out of his boat, •warn to the vessel, ran up its side, and having gained^he ^deek, liegan laughing most violently. He then set about pilfering whatever he could lay his hands on ; bift was hiadered from carrying on his disigo. Bulng dressed in a jacket and trowsers, be played as nany antic tricjLs at a day they dropped anchor in the road of Sumatra and on the ^7tb reached Batavia; the inha- bitants of which are a m'utley group of Dutch Portugiieze, Chinese, Persians, Moors, Malays^ Javanese, and others. On the 10th of December he directed his course to Prince's Island, where he staid a few days, and then sailed for the Cape of Good Hope. On the 7th of March lie left the Cape, and crossed the equinoctial line on the 25th. An accident happening to the rudder of the Tamar, the captain was ordered to sail for Antigua. The Dolphin nov? proceeded to Eng- land, and anchored in the Downs on the 9th of May, 17G6; having ciroumnaviffated the globe in about one year and ten months. The Voyage op the Honovrabib Captain Phifps towards the North Pole. The Honourable Constantino Phipps, in the Race Horse, and Captain Skeffington Lutwych, in the Carcase, set tail from Sheeroeas on the 3d of June, 1773, for the purpose of sailing to- wards the North Pole, that they might discover whether there were a possibility of reaching the North Pole, or whether the regions adjoining it were land or water. On the 15th they reached Brassey, one of the Shetland Isles, and. purchased some fish from the Shetland bo^tsat a^ery cheap rate. On the next day they sailed from Shet- land ; but were soon enveloped in a fog of pitchy darkness, during the continuance of which guns were fired and drums beat, to enable the Carcase to keep company, while the consort ship was obliged to repeat the signals, lest, in the deep gloom, they should run foul of each other. When the mist vanished, they found themselves, by observation, in sixty deg. fifty-two min. north lat. and immediately steered a N. E. course. Being arrived in latitude sixty-five deg. nine min. north, the cold began to be very sensibly felt, and additional clothing was delivered out to the officers and men. On the ^b they pursued monkey ; and at laat swam off with the habit with which he had been furnished. He devoured some biscuits with great eagerness, and upon joining his com|iaBions, others were induced, from the reception he had met with, to come on board, and shewed the same disposition to theft, by seising on some petty pvize, with which they made off by their dexterity in swimming. their BRIEF VIEW OF VOYAGEfl, &c. %6i their course to the eastward ; they were now within the Polar Circle; at midnight they had an observation of the sun, and found they werie in latitude sixty-six deg. fifty-two min. north*. On the 2Sd, being io the seventieth degree of north lat. the weather began to be piercing cold ; and the rain fell down in torrents, and froze as it fell, and the air was thick and unpleasant. On the l^h, the commodore changed his course to the E. N. E. and amidst fogs, gales, sleet, and pierc- ing cold, they advanced till they were in lat. seventy-four deg. seventeen min. N. On the 37th they had light airs from the south wtird^ and felt it much warmer than the preceding day f. On the 29th, being in lat. seventy-eight, deg. N. and Ion. six deg. twenty-nine min. E. they came in sight of land ; when a consultation was held concerning their future course. The appearance of the land lay from E.S. E. to N. E. Falling in with the Marquis of RockinghaOi, Greenlandman, she presented each of the ships with some venison, which was found very ^ell flavoured, but not burthened with fat. By this ship, which bad just come from the ice, they learned, that three whalers had the day before been crushed to pieces by some floats of ioe sud- denly closing on them. Pursuing their course next morning, they saw Black Point, tio called from its dark appearance, bearing east^yard, dis- stant seven or eight leagues. Soon after, stand- ing to the E. they sounded, and found ground at one hundred and fifteen fathoms depth. On the 1st of July they had light breezes and clear weather at midnight, the sun shining as bright as at noon. Early this morning they made Charles's Island. Next day they lay to and took the altitude of a mountain, which they named Mount Parnassus. It was found three thousand ^nine hundred and sixty feet above the level uf the tea, wholly covered with sAow, and at a distance resembled aii antique building, crowm;d with a lurrct. Here they shot some sea-fowl, which had a very 'oily taste. July 3d, they doubled Cape Cold, anchored about three miles from the * Here the Race Horse sounded nitli a lead of one hun. drcd weight, and a line of seven hundred and eighty rathoiu!!, to which was appended a thermometur of lord George C'a> Tcndiih's conitrnction. They found no bottoni; hut it was .i6ccrtained, that the water was eleven degrees colder at that depth than on the surface. f The vicissitudss of heat and cold are much more frc. quont here thaa in the more southerly latitudes. It often land, and sent the boats ashore for water, which they found in abundance, pouring from the rotks. The 4th, by observation, the latitude was seventy- nine deg. thirty-fmir min. N. and the longitude eight deg. 10 min. £ Ttie thermometer stood.' at forty-seven. On the 5th a dreadful orackling was heard at a distance, which prove(I to be^th^ dashing and grinding of loose pieces of ic£ against each other; the report of which is conveyttd from a great distance. Next da^y the island of ice began to appear ; by altering their coi»rse they lost sight of it ; but the next momiiig descried it again. On the 10th they sailed between num-, berless pieces of ice ; and it was the opinion of every officer on board, that the discovery of a passage to the Pole, in that direction, was im- practicable. Next day, the mass of ice extended as far as the eye could reach from the mast head. Early in the morning they saw land, which prov^ ed to be Cloven Cliff, in lat. seventy-nine deg. fifty-six min. N. At noon on the 13th, 4bey found themselves in lat. eighty deg. two min. N. On the 14th, they came to anchor in Smearing- burgh harbour, where they remained several days, to taka in fresh water. The country is described as awefully romantic^ and full of mountains, precipices, and rocks ^. The plants in Spitsbergen arrive at maturity in a very short space. Till the middl^ of May the whole coun-. try is locked up in ice; about the beginning of July, the plants are in blossom, and by the latter end of that month, or the commencement of the next, they have perfected their seed. The water- fowl are so numerous as sometimes to darken the air when they rise in flocks, ^nd they screa^ so horribly, that the rocks ring with their noise. The other tenants of this country are white bears, deer, and foxes. It is seldom that the air conti- nues clear many days together in this climate. The ice began to set in apace, yet the weather was hot. The thermometer from fifty-six in the cabin, rose to ninfly in the open air. It was still ten degrees higher on the top of a mountain to which it was carried. Having watered, and changes from temperate to severe cold almost in ao instants J Of the ice hills formed iu this country, the Seven Ico, burjrhs attract particular notice. Whuu tiie sun shines fvil upon them, the prospect is inconceivably brilliant, assu.n. ing all the various hues and tints that the reflection 'of tha solar orb on their rude surfaces can convey. Their lustr* is too dazzling for the eye, iuid the air is filled with astonish, ing brightness. finished n i" n ] i'-'C %9e GEOGRAPHICAL DfiSCRlPTfON Olf THK WORLD. finished aotne astronomical observathiat, mkkh ^vere made on Marble Island, the H\u\i throw lb ships le 30th. to have naviga- [)ved the into the ) battle te. r a second : high time red to see ehiiid him, id, againit firtid, and Y the death 3d about to a tlie bear g t© growl Mck. Tlie and now it Having re. 'ovelting on ist hi i«n lying in ted the com. en the lOth. r contract to upty-money ' that tishery. 1 to wait till ra, lo order )st their ships lave had tha eir boats. li II! t**^. I I 3-: l!M'" . r -KMbBe: BRIEF VIEW 07 VOYACra, &«, «&7 TRAVSts IN Lower and Upper Egypt, during THE Campaigns of General Bonaparte. By Vivant 1)enon. M. Denon accompanied general Bonaparte in his expedition to Egypt, together with several other gentlemen, at the desire of the.French go- vernment, for the purpose of making observa- tions, and of gaining information relatiro to that country. They departed from Toulon on the I5th of May, 1798. and took Malta on (he 13th of June. The Frfcnth fleet escaped, in a fog, the English squadron under the command of admiral Nelson. They landed in Egypt, near Alexandria, ontheSd of July, which they took, and aflerwardsfought a battle, called the Battle of the Pyramids, on the 22d of the same month. than is at present remaining: but frotn the exami- nation which M. Denon made of it, that does not appear to be the fact. He says, that the pro- portions are colossal, the outlines of which arc rather docile than pure: the expression of the head is sweet, gracious, and tranquil, the cba> racter.of an A^ican; but the mouth, whereof the lips are at a distance, has a softness in the movement, and a fineness of execution trUHy admirable: from a distant view it has the piarance of being clothed with 'flesh, puid endow ed with life : and from twu exquisite wpckman- ship, it appears that the art of sculpture.was in a high degree of perfection at the remote period when this monument was erected. ' Speaking of Esne, the ancient L^atopolis, M. Denon informs us, that it was a port or quay on the banks of the Nile, but that it is now in a afr* M. Denon gives a description of the naval action at most deplorable state. He says, that there is in Aboukir, which happened on the 1st of August, and. afterwards prosecrted his travels in the Delta, fVom the 11th till the S3d of September; on which day they arrived at Cairo, where an insurrection took place on the ^d of October. In November 'be prosecuted bis researches in Upper Egypt, and on the 25th of January, 1799, made a visit to Tent^ra ( Dendera) ; on the 27th be had a view of Thebes ; on the 29tb be went to the town the portico of a temple, which he be- lieves to be the most perfect monument of ancient architecture. It is near the market place, in a fine situation, and would be an incomparable ornament, if the inhabitants were susceptible of its value: but, alas! it is falling fast into ruins. The portico is extremely well preserved, and is a monument < < the finest sculpture : it is composed of eighteen columns, which are ornamented Latopolis, and on the SOth to Apollinopolis. I with hieroglyphics, that have a fitfeeflTect; among On the 25th of February they visited the cata- racts; and on the 3d of April, made a fresh journey to Thebes, which they again explored on the 29th of June, and made several discoveries. They quitted Upper Egypt on the 5th of July, find returned to Cairo on the 20th: on the 26th which are the principal productions of the coun- try, such as the lotus, the palmyra, the vine, &c. Gebel Silsilis, which is among the mountains that border the Nile on both sides of the river, situated between Edfou and Ombos. Here IS are innumeralble monuments, the receptacles of of which month they fought a battle against the ! the dead, which are covered with hieroglyphics. Turks at Aboukir. On the 24:th of August, they left Alexandria on their return to France, and arrived at Frejus on the 1st of October. In the progress of his travels, M. Denon has favoured the wOrld with a description of the Sphinx, which he took great pains ill examining; and madte a profile drawing of it, which was certainly'the best point of view in which he con' 1 iexliibit it. The Sphinx, which, M. Denon says, merits a particular description, stands near the pytafbid*, but'it is.rapidly falling t6 decay, for only the h«ad and shoulders appear, and these are^ibout'thirty fiaet high. Some have imagined -that it twM^bewnout of the rock on which it stands, ioid Ibtt (there never \va8 any more Romeca is their favourite dance. 12. Ce'rigo, or Cytherea, is a mountainous rocky island, and is remurkable only for being the birth place of Venus and of Helen, who was the occasion of the famous siege of Troy. 13. Santorini, the ancient Caliste, that i9> Beautiful Isle, the inhabitants of which are prin- cipally Greeks, and though subject to the Grand Signior, ehuse their own magistrate. Their chief trade is in wine; and while their husbands are abroad on commercial affairs, the women culti- vate the vineyards at home. The dress of the wo- men is extremely neat and decent, and gives them an elegant appearance. 14. Rhodes is a large island, being about fifty miles long, and twenty-five broad. It abounds in good wine, fruit, and provisions of every kind butcorn, which is imported from the neighbouring islands. At the mouth of the harbour of Rhodes, said to be fif^y fathoms wide, Ktood the Colossus' of brass, esteemed one of the wonders of the world. One foot was placed on one side of the harbour, and the other foot on the other, so that ships passed between its legs: the face of this figure represented the sun, to whom the image was dedicated. .The height of it was seventy cubits, that is, about one hundred and thirty- five feet. It held in one hand a light-house, for tbe direction of mariners. 15. Candia, the ancient Crete, is about two hundred miles long, and sixty broad: it is re- markably fertile. The Turks invested Candia in 1645; but the garrison did not surrender till September, 1669, when they obtained honourable terms. The Venetians lost eighty thousand men, and the Turks one Jiundrcd and eighty thousand, during the siege. 16. Cyprus is a large isfand, being one hun- dred and fifty miles lung, and seventy broad. In time of peace, its trade is very considerable, as consuls from almost every European nation reside here. It had formerly eight hundred or one thousand villages, but at present it is so thinly inhabited, that half the lands lie uncultivated. 17. The island of Nio is in the neighbourhood': of Santorini, and is about thirty-five miles in cir- cuutt'crence. It is well cultivated, and is not so steep as the generality of the other islands of the Archipelago. The wheat of this island is excel- lent, but oil and wood are scarce. Tbe inha- bitants. ■•*- mo GEOGBAPHrOAT DESCRIPTION OF THE WORLO. -1)itants areTer^ personable men; and the women, as iKcll as those of Santorini, are remarkably ihandsORiu; 'their dress is extremely neat and •ahoWyi The ancients pretend that the Grecian poet Hom«r died in this fsluad^ and^assert that his tomb uas erected liere. 18. Argeiitierra, or Kimoli. The French -give it the name of Argeuticrro, from the silver mines discovered in it; but these have been long shut up, and the nutives deny all knoM'ledg'.'. of <8uch metal being in the island, from anapprehen- sioN that the Turksmight compel them to labour in the mines. It isa barren spot, destitute of all •water but what can be saved in cisterns, and has but one village in it, the babitations of which are an assemblage of miserable cottages. Tbedressof lower class of women is inconceivably ridiculous, -consisting of an enormous load of linen, which they wear till it is extremely dirty. The better (ort, however, are a little more tasty, and set off their persons to the lest advantage. Their under petticoat is only their short shift, embroidered Avith red, that leaves their leg^ exposed; the thickness of which is esteemed a principal article of female beauty : those ladies, howeyer, whom nature has not bestowed this mark of handsooie- ness upoo, endeavour to supply the deficiency by three or four pair of thick »toc|(iDg8. When the leg is so uniformly thick all the way as tq be truly perfect according to their standard, som? of the ladies add a pair of half-boots of cut velvet, frequently decorated with some small silver buttons. 19. The island of Cephalonia is about eighty miles long, forty broad, and one hundred and thirty in circumference. This island was sub- dued b)' the I'hebans, under the conduct of Am- phitryo, who is said to have killed Pterelas, who I hen reigned in (he island. At this time, accord- jog to ancient story, one Cephalus^ a mao of great distinction at Athens,' having accidenlally kiiied his wife Procris, in shooting at a deer, fled hither to Araphitryo, who pitying bim, not only received him kindlv, but made him governor of ,the island, . which hcnceforfh was called Cepha- lonia. It fell iu time under the power of the Ma- cedonians, then of the ^tolians, and was at length reduced by M. Ful. Nobilior, who, mas- tering the metropolis after a four months siege, sold all the citizens for slaves, and added the island to the demesnes of the AoroaD republic. This island is agreed on all hands vto be very fer- tile, especially in red wines, excellent muscadine raisins and currants, and fine ail; in all which the people here carry on a very advantageous commerce. It is chiefly inhabited by Greeks. Its bishopric is subject to the metropolitan of Corfu, and united to that of Zante. The island is di- vided into twenty districts, and is altogether mountainous, there being scarcely a plain of any extent." It is situaited between the island of St. Maura on the N. and Zante on the S. about twelve milei from the former, and twenty from the latter, and not above twenty-four from the coast of the M orea. The chief town, Cepha- lonia, is a small city and fortress, andis situated on a bill about six miles from Argoatoli, the principal port of the island,, and residence of the governors; which said port is large and well sheltered on all aides ; but tb^ anchorage is not very. good. At its' entrance is a large village, where the raisin merchants mostly reside. There are two other ports, one at Pescarda, another at Lucksuri,the former for small, the latter for large vessels. Another fortress is called Asso, which, with Cephalonia, are the only iplaces of strength. The other islands are small, and, not being re- markable for any thing, do not merit a particu< lar description. 3 FINIS. INDEX. im^ ■1 •■' .. "'•^il ' '*'■#'-,. 4M %/ ^ ^^J% -■"i*^. .,.■.■; -•■?:■' '/'vr. ^..^ .-, ■.*!.", »., ^% '11 'Ml INDEX. VOL. II. Ir A. ABU-Shehr, town of, 597. Acre, city of, 289;— its bay, 290. Admiralty lalands, 76, 98 ;— dishonesty of the natives, 99. Adventure Bay, 122. Minn, Mount, explored, 445. Africa, its extent, boundaries, population, rivers, mountains, 844. Agreda, town of, SOS. Alcalade Henarcs, city of, 309. Alcoba9a, city and monastery of, 370. Algarve, province of, 384. Alemtejo, province of, 348. Aleppo, pachalicof, its extent, 281. city of, 283. AlexandretU, city of, S83. Alexandria, city of, S45. Alicant, city of, 339. Almazan, district of, 308. Altona, city of, 481. Altorf, town of, 413. AniaMa, town of, 642. America, voyage to the North-west coast of, 193. Amsterdam, city of, 806. Ancona, town of, 440. Andaman Islands, 5A1 ;— the natives, 652. Antioch, city of, 283. Antiparos, grotto of, 804, n. Apamea, or Farmia, in Syria, 296. Appenzcl, canton of, 407. Arabia, its boundaries, population, religion, &c. 299, 626, 839. Arab'i, Egyptian, 249 •.—Syrian, 270. Ararijuez, palace and gardens of, 314. Archipelago del Espiritu Santu, tee Hebri- des. Arenenberg, town of, 408. Arimathea, or Hainlat, in Palestine, 298. Armenia, trav(?l9 in, 641. Arraii, Isle of, OSO. j Aslidod, see Azoliis. ' Ashkeloi), or A/kalan, 200. Asia, its extent, limits, and original popu- lation, 817;— seas, 818. Islosof. 841. Asphaltitos, [.ake, 266. AsKumptioii, Isle, i?!). Astracan, city of, 823. Atooi, Isle, visite description of, 381. Good Hope, Cnpe of, 77, 844 ;-varlout excursions to the mountains in thevicinity of the town, and remarks on the naiur^a history, productions, and natives, go Gothland, Island of, 501. Gottenhurgh, city of, 500. Gozo, Me of, «l'3. Granada, kingdom of, 336. Grandson, town and bailiwic of, 419, Grodno, city of, 479. Grotta del Cane, in Naples, 4 10. Guadahpiiver river, 306;— its source, ami the environs, 343. Guadarrama, mountains of, 317. Guudiana, river, 306. Gucbres, worshippers of fire, 838, a. llama, in Syria, 296. liambuigh, city of, 480. Ilanning^s Bay, 221. Hebrides, the, 680. ~ New, tee New Ilebridei. Hebron, ruins of, 297. . Heidelberg, city of, 405. Heliopolis, ruins of, 290. Ilerculaneum, ruins of, 440, n. Hermit's Islands. 101. Herrings, shoals of, 650. Hindostan, its name, boundaries, religion, pouulation, manners and customs, 833 ; — languagi-s. manufactures, climate and seasons, 834 ;— rivers, mountains, forests, and ziK)logy, 835 ;— mineralogy, cities, and towns, 836. Hogs, wild, in India, 635. Holhuid, its provinces, religion, popula- tion, colonies, army, manners and cus- toms, &e. 805. Holland, New, ace New Holland. Holyhead, Island of, 673. Horeb, Mount, 299. Hungary, travels in, and general descrip- tion of, 453; — cities and towns, 455 — tUO, Huon, captain, sails with Admiral D'En- treca-iteaux, in search of I^ Pcrouse, Oi> ; — 35. Iran, tee Persia. Ireland, its extent, religion, government, divisions, Sec. 6S2. Ispalian, city of, 839. Italy, its boundaries, extent, population, fate of the country, rivers and lakes, 812;— niountain>, and divisions, 813; —travels in, 422. J. Jackson, J. Esc). his journey from India to- wards England, overland, tiirough Cur- distan, 619. Jack-witii-a-lantcrn, at sea, 7, n. Jamnia, or Yabna, or Palestine, 299. Japan INDEX. Y L. II. HI igion, popula- iiicn and cus- encral descrip- iviis, 455 — ^liio. kdiniral D'Eii< a Pcrouse, (ieaM>n!t, and volcanoes, 83 1 . Java, Isle of, 841. Jeco, We, 41, u. Jericho, ruins of, 207 Jerusalem, present stale of, 290. Jcsso, Isleot', 41, n. JfKjtsi-sima, IsliMif, 41. Jordan, river, 200, SI'JO. Jura, Uleof, 080. Juste, convent of, the retreat of the empe- ror Charles V. 331. Kaniptschatka, travels in, 1 10; — government of, 53, 58 ; — thenativis, their villages and habitations, 148, 151, 100. Karlsruh, town of, 400. Kava, method of preparing, 125. Kesraonan, country ot, 280. Khwarexm, country of, 839. King George's Sound company, 196, Kirguses, a Tatar tribe, their country, man- ners and customs, 839. Kislna, river, 8Ja. Koningratz, city of, »52. Koriacs, a tribe of the Kamptscliatkadales, 170, 175; — singular mode 6f courtship and nuptial ceremony, 171. Kumi Island, 38. Kurile Islands, 52 ;— Russian government, of, 57. L. Labillardierc, M. 'sails with admiral D'En- trecasteaux in search of La IVrouse, 0!); — taken prisoner at Balavia, by the Dutch governiir, 113; — sent to t'ran'cc, 145. Lagos, city of, f.iiS. I A Manclia, 313. Lemr.noh, Peak, 43. Langle, M. cic, appointed to the command • of the Astrolabe, 5 ; — and sails with La Perouse, 0;— murdered by the islanders of .Maouna, Ixnplandcrs, 803. Latakia, town of, ?8."). l^aTrappe, monks of, '103. Laticiibtrg, town of, 4'i3. Liusaiine, town o(', 4'JO, Lebanon, Mount, COS. U'igli's islanil, !>7. Lcg^iSpin, town of, 3'.'0. . ' J.egrand's Bay, 111. Leone, Isle, 05. Lijisops, M. his journry fi;om Kaniptschatka to Pelersburgh, 140—194. — ike Kanipts- chatka. I^uchteiiburg, cavern of, 403. Leuis, Isle of, 08 1 . I^yr Obidos, city of, 309. . • .,.. .Ci Okotsk, town and inhabitants, 181. ^ Okn-Jesso, Isle of, 5 1 . Oiieehow, Isle of, visited bv captain Port- lock, 203, 217. Opoito, city of, and its environs, 377 ;— climate, 37S. Opoun, Isle of, 05. Oppido, town of, 440; — earlluiuake, 44!. Orkneys, the, 081. Ossamo, Isleof, 05. , • Out'ia, Isleof, 05. Ounque, battle of, 393. , ., -(j Owhyhee, island of, 13, 200, 233. li, Oyolava, Isle ol, 61 ; — pupulalion, &c. OT. P, Padua, city of, 447. Palermo, city of, 442. Palestine, \\ ^ if Palntine, its extrat, climate, toll, govern* iiieut. 2U7 ;— citiet, &c. f08. Palmyra, niins of, 'JM. Pampeluiw, citv of, 307. Parliament of England, 657. Parm-j, duchvof, 4'J8. Paneeii, worshippers of fire, 838, n. Pamportain Portugal, 301. Pastoril or wandering tribe* of Syria, 270. Pavia, city and univertity, 4iS9. Pays (le Vaud, 430. Pearl fishery, 837. PegiK, iiingdomof, 831 ; — city of, 558. Pekin, city of, 8'^6. Penipelfort, town of, 404. Penances during I'assion-week atManilla,35. Peroiise, La, bis voyage round the world, 5; — uncertainty of Ills fate, 68— 71, 08. Perstpolis, ruins of, 013. Persi 1, or Iran, 837 ;— its extent, provinces, ancient monuments, religbn, manners , and customs, 838 ;— travels in, 597. Pesaio, town of, 448. Pescadore, or Pong-hou Islands, 38. Philippine Isles, 843. Pied nont, travels in, 423 —See Italy. Pig'r^ins of Aleppo, formerly used at cou- riers, 383, n. Pil(p images to Jmisalem, 206. Phia, city of, 429 ; — its inclined tower, 430. Placenza, or Placentia, town of, 332, 427. Plicti Polonica, a disease of Poland, 475. Poland, travels in, 467. Pol vgldt Bible, the tirst printed, 300. Pnrk, method of preserving at sea, 204. Port des Frangais, 17 ; — accident at, 18. Portlock, capt. his voyage to the North- west coast of America, 105. Portugal, 512;— iu frontiers, 345;— Por- tuguese military, 346. Posilipo, hill and grotto of, at Naplen, 438. Poula, or Pola, Isle, 65. Pozzudii, city of, 438. Prague, citv of, 451. Prince William's Sound, 226; — the inlm- bitants, their manners, customs, i'uud, cooking, weapons, implements, 227. Printing-press in Syria, 288, n. Prisons in Portugal, 391. Prussia, its extent, religion, manners, cus- toms, language, &c. 704. Puppies, suckled by women, 217, n. Pyrenean mountains, 306, 70!^. Quiclpaert, Isles of, 30, n. Quelus, palace at, 364. Rangoon, town of, thepeopig called Ca- rayners, the temple of iihoedagoii, 565. — 'The Birinans and Hhahaans, 566. Raveiisburgh, town of, 407. lleggio, town of, 428. Reicdnau, abbey of, 408. Reindeer, method of taking, 163, — natural, h'storyof, 534. Rbotles, Isle of, 821. Rhimini, city of, 446. Rhahaans, a religious fraternity in India,566. Roclion's voyage to Madagascar, 235. I N D B ^. y e L. II. Rocky Bay, 1 1$ ;— excursioiw into the inte- rior, and various transactioiu with the na- tives, 116. Romagna, province of, 446. Rome, 430 ;— Tlu-rm* of Oioclcsian, Fon- tana del Aqua Felice, church of Sta. Ma- ria Maggiore, &c. ib, Romelia, travels in, 644. Kosenburg-h, town of, 453. Rnssia in Europe, itt extent, boundaries, pn>vjnces, antiquities,'religion, &c. 605. — bles of, 700. ■ ' ' • ill Asia, its extent, lioundaries, an- tiquities, religion, population, manners and customs, ftc. 822. Russian empire, general view of, and divi- sions, 5()j; — climate, 507; — soil, and face of the country, 500 ; — boundary and in- land seas, 510; — tribes, 512. Saidc, or Acre, pachalic of, 2S6. Si. Catherine, Isle, its produce, inhabitant*,7. — Idlefon.^o, royal seat and j;ardea of, 310. — Ja^o, Cape de Verd, 107. •— Paul's Island, 84. — Peter and St. Paul, Bay, S3. — Petersburgh, city of, 607. — Vincent, Cape, 395. — Ube's, town and port of, 367. Salt, its preponderance in thesoil and climate of Egypt, •= — mine of Valtierra, in Spain, 308. Salting meat at sea, 204. Samaria, remains of, 206. Samiel or hot wind of Egypt and Syria, 348. Samos, Isle of, 821. Samoyedesof Russian Tartary, 510. Santlwich Islands, 08, n.- -visited by La Perouse, 13 ;— by Portlock, 200 ;— revo- lution in the government of, 203;— chiefs' names, 203.— fee 233. San Marino, town of, 446. Santa Cruc, dresses and manners of the inha- bitants, produce of the island. Ate. 71,74. Savoy, travels in, 423. — Su Italy. Schalfhauseii, town of, 409. Schweitz, town of, 413. Sciglio, or Scylla, roclu of, 443. Scilly rocks, 673. Scio, or Chios, Isle of, 881. Sclavonia, travels in, 463 ;— Possega, Cscr- nak, ib. — Eszeg, Semlin, Brodo, 464 ; — tlie natives, 513. Scotland, its extent, divisions, and antiqui- ties, 674 ; — ftiligion, 675 ; — government, laws, population, manners, customs, 676. . ■■■ Isles of, 680. Scurvy, on board ship, iPO, n. Sea bears, natural history of, i;41. — cows, 542. — dogs, 530. — eleptiants, 108, n. -I— foxes, 530. — lions, 108, 542. — otters, 543. Segovia, city of, 316. S^pach, town and lake of, 414. Seville, city of, 333. Siara, 'kingdom of, 833. Siberiani, th«Ur origin, manncn, ke. Sll Sicily, travels in, 443.— liifc Italy, Sinai, Mount, 300. Slate mountains of Portugal, 347, n. Sour, the ancient Tvre, Ascription of, 389, Spain, travels in, 306, 700, — — Islet of, 801. Spice Islands, 843. Spitabergen, Islet of, 700. Stockholm, city of, 501. Stolbera't L-avels in Germany, ke. 401. Storm Bay, 84 >- explored, 88, 115. Sugar mills in Spain, 335. Sumatra, Isle of, 841.. Sweden, travels in, 405f. 811. Swedenborgians, their rise and tenets, 656, Swisterlano. travels in, 407, 813. Symes, M. Esq, his embassy to llie king- dom of Ava, 547. Syracuse, city of, 443 ^-buildings, 444. Syria, traveu in, 3044 T. Tabaria, lake, or Sea of Galilee, 300. Tabor, Mount, 200 ;— town of, 452. Tartaiy, its extent, divisiom, kc. 828. Teneriffe, attempt to explore itt tuminil, 71. Thibet, iti extent, religion, 8cc, 833. Tombs in Persia, 003. TVamylvania, travels in, 460, 64S. I'ripoli, pachalic of, itt extent, 384. Troya, remains of, 368. Turin, city of, its origin, &c. 423. l'urk(7in Europe, 801. I'urka, their ongin, 850. Tuscany, kingdom of, 813. Tyre, ruintof, 380. V&U. Valencia, city and environi of, 339, 312. Valladolid, city of, 318. A'enice, city of, 447 ;— public buildings, 418, Vesuvius, Mount, explored, 439. Vevay, town of, 420. Vienna, city of, 448, 450. Villagorda, 343. Villa Real, town of, 307. Uist, Isles of, 681. Ulm, cathedral of, 400. Volney, M. his travel* through Syria, 314. W Wall of China, 885. Wallachia, travels in, 640. Warsaw, city and palace of, 473. Wine-trade of Portugal, 385, n. Wirtemberg, duchy of, 406. Y. Yafa, a sea-port of Palestine, 308. Yverdun, town of, 410. Zealand, Island of, 486. 2^g, town and country of, 413. Zurich, canton and town of, 4Q0. Printed 'jy W. Stratford, Crown-Court, Temple-Bar. manncn, &c. Hi, He$ lUly. ugal, 347, n. oeKriptionof, 389, 00. 00. THMny, tee. 401. red, 89, 115. i. i«e and tenet*, 0513. 407, i\a. oibassy to llic king- —buildings, 444. r Galilee, 300. 4own of, 452. riiiom, ice. 828. explore iu tuininit, gion, &c. 8S2. I, 400, 648. « extent, 284. B. n, tec. 423. I. >0. , 813. tU. lironi of, 339, 313. tt. public buildings, 418. )k>red, 439. 450. 97. )e. It through Syria, 314. IV. 646. lace of, 473. al, 395, n. of, 400. f. 'alestine, 308. kl9. 486. try of, 412. own of, 4Q9.