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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 I I I ROUXD THE WORLD BV DOCTORS' ORDERS. -.fj yw 4? I & w n I TiiK Du.Mi-;. ^usI•;.M^l■|, \.\i,i.i;\. caliiokm.^ I Ji.'j Jt. a!tn-i- .Ml.' ii'.i/. 'i^fi Round the World UY DOCTORS' Orders. IlKING A NARUATIVE Or' A yj^A7;!'S TRA VEL IN JAPAX, CRYLOA\ A USTRAUA, CHINA, NEW ZEALAND, CANADA, THE UNITED STATES, ETC., ETC. By JOHN DALE, J. P. LONDON : ELLIOT STOCK, 62, PATERNOSTER ROW 1894. 1 6 6 II 5 I J 1M>IEFACH. T X placing this hook containing the history of a A year's travels round the world before the public, the writer is following the advice and C(junsel of many friends. Whether they are wise or not in recommending such a proceeding is one of those things which the future only can show. The manuscript was written without any idea of publication, and did duty as a series of circular letters to fireside friends at home. The work l^retends to no literary merit ; it is merely a description of the many scenes and incidents which, during the journey, presented themselves to the writer's notice. It is hoped that those who may be about to take a like tour will find this work a helping hand stretched out to assist them over the difficulties which always attend a journey such as IS described, and which are apt to try the temper and spoil all true enjoyment, especially in a country not visited before. At the same time, it is trusted that the work will be found interesting and perhaps instructive to the general reader. I I C O N T \i X 1 S . CIIAI'. I. VOYAC.E lO CKVLOX . n. ci'.vi.oN III. SOVACiK lO VICIOKIA IV. VICIOKIA V. TASMANIA . VI. MOW /KAI.ANIi . \1I. NKW /KALAND— NOKIH I VIII. XKW SOUlll WALE.S . IX. VOVAGK lO CHINA X. CHINA XI. JAPAN . XII. CALIl'OKNIA XIII. ALASKA XIV. CANADA SI.ANU— MAORI COUNTRV 1 At.f. 21 20 5' 6 1 8i lo; 121 M9 i8i 249 297 li M ILLUSTRATIONS. HINCiALESi; DWELLINC, SlNtiALESK lilLLOCK \VAO(.t).\ STURT STKKKT, IJAI.LAKAT, VILTOKIA LAL'NLKSTUN lEKN TREK liOWER .... THE KE.MARKAI!Ij;s nUNEDIN SNO\V-( AI'PEI) MOINTAINS CROSSING A RIVER WELLINGTON MAORI MEN AND WOMKN A GEYSER A MAORI I'AII, OR VllLAGE . OlIINEMTTi; AND LAKE ROTORUA . A MAORI CIIIEE .... A MAORI WIIARkV. OR iIOUSE SYDNEY TOWN MALL AND CENTENNIAL NATIVES, NEW SOUTH WALES NATIVES, MELVILL ISLAND (JUEENSLAND ABORIGINE NATIVES NATIVES AND CANOE, MINDORO ISLAND I'ALANOIIN OR SEDAN CHAIR tJLEEN'S ROAD, MONO KONG . A CHINESE TEMl'LE A CHINESE EXECITION . ALL 4« 57 64 f'5 /J 75 83 «3 yo 9^ 94 97 100 "3 116 '3- '34 •37 '45 '51 '55 161 164 Vlll ///itsfrafious. A ( MiNKsr (LUKr or jrsTicr: A JOST rnOCKSSION '•E.MALi; I'UMSHMKN 1' cinNESE risiiiNc A "MrsMKi: " . DRESSING HAIR " DlABl'TSU ■' OR CiOD EXTRANXE TO THE SHRINE OF A SHOO JAPANESE CHILDREN SACRED URIDGE, MKKO . TORII OR ENIRANCE TO A TEMPLE PART or A Ti' MPLE A JAPANESE I'AN DANCER JAPANESE KITCHEN SAN ERANCISCO GLACIER POINT MARIPOSA PARK TREE . TOTEM POLES .... JUNEAU, ALASKA . ICEBERG AN INDIAN'S HOUSE VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA INDIANS WINNIPEG, CANADA i6s 169 171 177 184 205 208 211 217 219 228 237 253 263 265 278 281 28S 291 299 303 316 317 PACE 165 169 184 205 20S 21 I 217 219 00 ■» 22.S ::37 253 263 265 278 2.S1 2SS 291 299 303 316 317 I. FOVAGB TO CEYLON. ^ I re in •\v ar fri it. til .1 I bo pc wc i1h liki to for aiic CHAPTER I, VOYAGE TO CEYLON. J\fOVEMni:R 6/A ,S9i..-\Vc left Charin,- Cross I[otel ;it lomthc inoniin-for Fcnchurch Street Station rcach.n- it witli some difficulty on account of the "blocks'" »n the streets. rhesc were, however, nothin^^ in comparison with the croucs at the station. There was a regular crush and push of i)assen-ers, with about double the number of fncnds seein- them off. A Bank Ilolidav was nothin- to It. I wo special trains were dispatched with about three thousand passenoers. friends, and bag-aoe, all mixed up in .1 manner most irritating to the mind and wearyin-- to the bod)-. Even as I am now writing;-, the next dav, many people have not yet found their "petit baggage." and no W(jnder. At Tilbury there were several "tenders" waiting to take the passengers to the ship Opinr. the scene on which was l>ke a fan-. People got on board and lost their friends^ not to find them again, for this .ship beats the "Ma/e" at ]l:unpton Court. After half an hour, friends w^ere warned »'»• the .shore; then commenced the process of "tears and tearmg away," and long adieu.s. Those in the ship as 4 I\yaor (o Ccy/ou. p;issciiL;crs, wen- suinmoiu'd to .i suin])tU(ius lunch in the s|)U'ii(h'(l saloon, about iwciUy-fivc fuel in hcis^hl. (K coratecl in a most ck-^ant and artistic style. When the repast was finished \vc found the i^ood ship Ophir hail ^otK' a consider- able distance down the river, we beineni^ers snoring — one like a traction-enL;ine — others walkin;^ about. .\!l this coultl be plainly heard in the absence of the nois( of thi' screw, for the fore c\\(\ of the ship is as free from en;j;ine and screw noise as a sai'.iivj; vessel. Novtiiihcr 'jth. — A fine morniuL;'. smooth sea, very cold. Wc are L;"oinL;" down the ('hannel to I'lymouth. where •.\e e.\i)ect to take on board man\- more passenj^ers. Letters have just been delivered, but how the\- came, or where from, 1 do n(jt know, but so it is. People still cannot find their way about, and it is quite common to hear the tjuestion asked, " Will )'ou tell me the way to No. -? " and luL;i;"ag"c huntin;^" is also L,^oinL;" on with vis^our, but with ;ttle success. 1 am writing" in the chiltlren'> dininL;-room for want of a better i)lacc, bccau.se e\-erybotiy is anticipatiiiLj IMymouth, and bus\' with corresjiondence on ever}' .ivail.djle t.djle. On arriviiiLj at Plymouth Harbour a steam tender brought letters and a lan^'e quantity of provisions, including;" about a thousand L;allons of milk. Many small boats came aloni;- side with all kinds of thinj^s for sale, from deck-chairs to ^"ini^cr ale— the latter beini; credited as a sure pre\entati\e of .sea-sickness. A notice was postctl on board, " Will sail at 4 o'cl()c]^, Hi / ovax'i' ^'' Cc'v/oii. in the conilcd i;isl was msidcr- a start )()(! ;uul IS quite snoriivj; All this ^t of thr 1 civj;iiK' LTV CdUl. vhcrc w'c Letters )]■ where is (]uite lil me the on with :liil(h-en'- ,er\'biiil\ Idence on broui^ht about a le alon'j;- l-cliairs to •entative o'clock, slurps' conse(iiKiUl\' onI\' two or three passiiv^ii's went a>hori'. Al -! "/'clock the steam tender left, and there was e\-ery prepar aioii made for starting;, even to the " I lurrah ! '' which, to niir miiid->, is sdniethiiiL; like a " prize-fiLjhter's smile." W I' waitvd Oil deck lo see the last of old I"aiL;land. The weather continued bitlerl\' cold and the atmosphere ijuite ha/.\\ >o, lea\'ini; old l'lnL;land to lake care of itself, we SDUv'ln the comfort of "afternoon tea," when we learnt that the owners and enL;ine makers had ju--t ilecideil to overhaul tlh enj^ines and machinerx', and that we mij^ht remam wlure we were man\' hours! At lo o'clock, these Ljentlemen, havini;' satisfied their minds, departed, lea\ini;" us to ilo tin- same. Our first step \>as lo ;4et rid of the wind, ami keep out the cold b\- closiiii;' the \entilalors. The sea was smooth, and the iiii^lit cpiiet, for the deiiK.ns of unrest had ileparted, and the noise had ceased. Xoi'i'iii/'ir .S///. — A i^rand morninL,^^ with bri<4ht sunshine, but still Cold, sea smooth. At 6 .\.M. we passed U.shant, and were in the " Ba\-," the ship sailing- well, and the passen^^ers. for the most part, looking cheerful. Hcin;^ .Sunda\-, there was a chriiicc of learninsj" st)methintr of the reliL;ious tendencies of this larije number of people all thrown to!j,ethcr. .\ Church of ICnt^Jand service was held in the ^rand saloon, some sort of a dissentini;' one in the second-class saloon, and a Salvation Army one on the steeraL^e tleck, fore and aft, which appeared most vigorous, for there \.as a whole re;j,iment. both of men and women, L;oin<^ tf) fi^ht the " ICvil One," in Australia. We ha\c on l)oird also the veiled nuns from a convent, and several Roman Catholic priests. The weather at sunset looked threateniiv^-, and, later on, the wind bei^fan to blow, workintj 6 fovdi^r to Ccv/oii. U]) a "sea"; and yet altlK)U;j,h it was Sunday iiii;ht the sliip went in for "pitch and tuss." which, in S , is an (tlTcncc undir the \'a;4rant Act. sn wc >hiit ciir c)X's antl went to >k'ii). No:\-ii/l)rr 9///. --Lord Major's 1 )ay. a wet nidrninLj, a sli'^ht sea on, the ship sailin;.; splencUdly. The wintl i> warm and bahii)' as we pass oft the coast of l'orlii;^al, haxinL; made a '^dod run. I'he C'aplain, with a friiL;al mind, has now <4one in tor savin;4 coals, antl is woikinL;" the ship with one set of cn;^ines, which lias rediici tl the speed to iweK'e miles an hour. Ships, like other institutions, are subject to strikes. On hoaril is a band of professors of music, enL;aL;ed to play and amuse the peo[)le. The)' lesoKed then^ icUes into a liand ot Hope, hopint^ to t^et somethiuL;" not bar>4ained for, and so "struck." llowe\'er, " all's well that ends well," and the aiTair eiuled in an amicable arranL;ement this after- noon, anil the artistes "struck" up a tune HeiuL;" a fnie nii^ht the band ai^ain played, and the passeni^ers pro- menaded, the electric ll^ht beini;' very elTective. Novciiilh-r 10/*//, J'/dSiinj. — A fine mornini;-, with bright sunshine, but a hea\-y swell on. We are still i;oinL;- half speed. \Vc pas.sed St. X'incent Head, and were in slight of land for some hours. The sunshine and warmth brought out thi^ pas.sengers, and great-coats and rugs were consigned to the cabins, making every one look much happier. The ship is a wonder, but ought not to have been sent to sea for another month, the arrangements being as \'et far from perfect, causing much discomfort. This morning, for instance, a pipe leaked somewhere near our cabin, resulting in a flooded floor; such a mess and disturbance. Then again, the hot-water apparatus for the baths is not I'ovin^'r to Ccy/oit. S . is . ( iiir eyes ncrninLj, a r1 i> uiinii ;al, haxitiL:; niiiKl, has ship Willi 1 ii, iwclvc U) strikes. •UL;aL;"ccl U) their ;el\es t bai'i;aincd ends well," I this aftcr- Jeini;- a fine niters pro- ■ith bris^ht uouii;" halt were in tl warmth rn|j,s were ook much been sent .'ing as yet s mornini;, our cabin, listurbancc. aths is not n in workiiiLj order; but, like the nui^ie, we live in hoprs of better times. Xo:;'i'//h-r I i ///, / 1 '' none the less, and its busy port was as full of ships as iver. .\ftir breakfast we went ashore, and felt tpiite at home in the .greets. Of course the markets were \isited to see the fruit, ve<^ctaljles, es^'gs, etc., and the Moorish market, with .ill kinils of li\'e animals, birds, and \egetablcs unknown to us. \\\' to(.k a carriai^e and tlro\'e over the neutral i;round, then entered Spain, where we had to pass throUL;h the Customs 1 louse, and then enter the little tow n of San I'Y'lipe, where the bull fi;j[hts take place, which .ire much p.itronised by the lMiL;lish from (iibraltar. These exhibitions take ])lace on Sunda)-s onl\'. We returned to (iib., and then drove; ♦() l".uroi)a I'oint, throui^h the L;ardens, which were profuse in all kinds of tropical flowers and plants. The tamarisk trees and palms, with undergrowth of prickl)- pi;ars, gave one the ide.i of being much farther from home. ]'lver\-thing looked fresh, for there had been a hea\')' rain the previous Sunday, six and a half inches having fallen in twenty-four hours. We returned to the Oj'liir in time for dinner, and expectetl to sail ;it 01. je, but ft)und a notice posted that we should sail at 10 the next morning. On inquir\', it transpired that the ship was again in the hands of workpeople, and the engines, including the boilers, which were empty, were undergoing another "oxerhaul" also. After dinner water barges came alongside and commenced pumping, which operation was continued all the night. s Voyage to Ccy/oii. iV(>rri///>ir \itli, I'liursday. — A splciulid moriiiuL;' with fiiK' suiirisc, i^ivini;' nnicli colour to (iib., with its l)r;et the " hoUsc in order"; much confusion beins;" still our lot, and the poor stewards ha\e a hard time, because some folk complain, and say the\' have paid for order and attention, and oiiject to the inconvenience. We learnt "self-help." and helped ourselves. .Soon after bn-akfast it be^an to rain, so few people went ashore, most of them bein^ cn-^a^^ed in arrant^inij cabins, etc. ; I o'clock came, and then it was announced we should sail at 6 (j'clock. At 7 we sailed, and saw the last of Hritish soil for some time. It was a glorious night, with a cloudless sky and bright moonlight. Nox'cmber 13//', hriday. — liright sunshine, warm as suminer, the ship sailing well, the band playing on tleck, where all .sorts of amusements are going on. In the after- noon all boxes were brought on deck, and it was amusing to see the eager dijjs made for hidden treasures, or wants which had arisen. \\\Qxy one seems to have found a new life, and music of all .sorts is to be heard from different parts of the ship. We have had a really idle day basking in the sun, and are going to bed tired. November \^th, Saturday.— \\\o\.\\kix splendid day, the sun rising out of the sea. The passengers, dressed in light summer costumes, arc walking about without head covers. The sea is smooth, and the ship so steady as to render locomotion as easy as strolling in the street. There has been an auction sale of tickets for the run of I'oyai^c to Ccy/oii. () ■; brdwn )ii to an hip tli;it is liable M." No h()U>c in the i)()t iS^ht, with ,arin as on deck, le aftcr- ainusing )r wants id a new- different baskini;' day, the .1 in liL;"ht id covers, to render ie run of ^9f the ship, .111(1 this will now take place each day. Tickets ill numlKMs of fifties, sa)' from ^30 to 4(10. are sold to an\' one for one shillini; each, and afterwards resold by auction for whate\tr can be '^^ot. .\ii)'thiii;4 al)o\e the fn-'t i)rice is ili\ided betweiii the purchaser and tlu- pool. This is repeated three limes, \\.\u\ lakes about an hour. .\t i-\,iO the run conns out. 'i"o-da\- it was 307 miles in j.| Iioiu'^. and },(■)}, tickets won o\er /. 5. ro-niL;ht a " full-tlress ball " is announced, antl, from the discu-^sioii t;()in!4 on, there promises to be a L;ir 15///, S/ii/(/(n. The weather continues ex'ery- thiiiL;" that could be wisheil, and the ship sails well. We ha\'e had the pleasure of again sailing;" into tlie Ha)' of Naples, where we cast anchor at 2.30. There was the ;.^Teatest excitement. Hundreds of boats surround the ship with musicians, and tlivers who dive for ami after coppers thrown into the water. All kinds of thiiisjjs were offered for sale. The letters have just come, and ever)' one is an.xious to Ljet hi> own — a re;^iilar scramble. Sailing orders : " Remain here until Tuesday." We did not go ashore, tlicre being plenty of amusement in the ship, where we remained on deck till very late. The full moon made Naples look charming. The .second batch of letters and papers arrived about ten. Some had to be answered by this mail, hence a late night. Ahn'ciiilh-r \C)t/i, Mi'iudn. — A fme morning. l^reakfast at 8 o'clock, which enabled us to land and .start early. Some went to Capri, others to the Museum and I'ompeii. We— my.self and wife— seemed to be the only two who were bent upon going to Bai.e. After .some trouble we lO / '([V(r:,'(' to ( \y/cii. foiiiul a "jjjodd h(»iNt ,111(1 a mci r.ifriai;c, uilli a clri\cr who c-()iil(l spi'aU I'',ii;4lish a litllr, aiitl whicli adilcil imich to (iiir pKasiin-. lie ua^ a innsi it pcctabic man, a /v?/'-/ nris ill NapU-s. ( )ur loiilt' was aliniL; the Chiaia, llun 1(1 \'iri;ir> tiiiul), oxi r the Mill (il l'().Mli|>i) to ro/./iioli, Salfatara Aiiipliithcatrc, i\ inplc ol' Scrapie. Calii^ula's Iirid;,;c', .\riiistroit;j;'^ W ork>, ( ii i ro > Nilla. Moiitc Nurro, Lake- l''usan) (^clcx-otcd to tin culture ol o)>tcrs;, Castle ot Haia, 'reiiiples of W luis, Mircuiy, I )iaiia, Julius Ca-^ar'> Palace, Nero's I'alace, Hatiis, etc., Sxhil's Cave, or drolto Ca\erii, wherein i-^ tlu ri\er Styx, o\( r which (.haroii will ferr\' \du to look into the iiitv inal rei^ion-. it is a dreadful place, curious it is true, but we were i^lad to L;et out of it ay;ain. This is on the banks of Lake d'.\i:jnano, which is perfectl)' round. It is the mouth of an e.xtinct volcano over three miles in circumference. We lunched at l-'usaro, and were offered oysters from the lake. After a nujst enjox'able day we arrived at our lloatiiiL; hotel just in time for dinner, well tired. I'he r(rund we went is about thirt)' miles. A^ovi'iiiIh'i '"it/i, ///r.sv/^y.- Anotlier ^rand da\'. We did not ^o ash(jre, beint; tired from our trip \-est(, rda)'. We had, however, plenty of amusement on board, for the Ophir was (luite a fair, with numbers of "swell" visitors from Naples. 'Ihe amount of barL^ainin^- on deck was some- thing wonderful until the order was i;iven to clear the shi[), when the pedlars took to boats, and with lont; bamboo- canes, w ith bags at the ends to receive the mone)', handed up various articles. This continued for two hours, during which much business was done. Then there were musicians, flower-sellers, fruit vendors, who accepted a few pence in exchange for large "baskets" filled with pears, grapes, apples, and figs ; divers who called out in the loudest tones, i / 'ovd^r to dylon. 1 1 I driver (1 iinich 1, ;i : iiV'i i.i, llun 'ii//ii()li, ;ili^ul;i's J Niuro, ";isllc ct L"ii>;irV. r (iTdUl' iron will (Irciidhil oul ol it (). wliich , volcano t l'"usiiro, ■ a inosl 1 in tiiiie ul thirt)' \\c (lid Wf had, ic Ophir LOIS from as soinc- ihc ship, baniboo- •, handed rs, durint; nusicians, pence in ^, .^n-apcs, est tones, " Munny, imuuiy, '.;i iillnnc n I " which, heinu; thrown to tin ii\ in llu' sia. llu)- dived and broip^lu np ; we estimated one man had thirty pinnie-; in his inoulh hesidi-s siher. " Sonciilo pir'/li'd)o.\eN " had bicn freily sold diirint; the da) .il S.v. ; over the ship's side we oflerid is. (v/., and just a^ w'l' were sailini; tile purchase was conchuled at v^- A lar;.;e nunilnr ot wo,kinen left us here, and wi- sailed al 4.^0, l)i(ldin;4 adiiii to Naples with some rei^ri't afli-r so much enjoNimiit. We passed (apri in an hour, antl had a |)leasant exenini; listiiiiiiL; to various adventures. The moonlii^hl was ai;ain \ir>' bri;4ht. the sea perfectl)' smooth, the various .imusi-ments on board went on as usual, and were, we understand, kept up until a late -or earlv— hour. 01 Course wc' elderly people relinil somewhat earl\". \ovciiibcr \'>tli, \\riiiics(Uiy. A most magnificent da_\', ;i cloudless sky, and ;i smooth blue sea. 'The sun was verv hot, and conipellitl retininent to the sh.ule. We |)ass(.'d throu;,;h the .Straits of Messina about 3 o'clock in the morniu!^ ; I'llna was visible at daylii;ht, as a'so was the Italian coast. Ihe .--hip has sailetl well. In the \y)\ hours up to \2 o'clock noon we had run 2S3 miles. An amusement committee h;is been formed, and a collec- tion made .imountini;, in a couple of hours, to over /."50. The auction sale of the run took place as usual, and this atternoon a cricket match, which proved a cles in |)raclice. It w.is ^reat fun for all the yount^sters and steerage people. This evening there is to be ;i full-dress ball, and another on Saturday — a tax on the wardrobes *>f the ladies. -rr ill J \) verier lo Ccv/oii. \i. A^o'i'niilu'i' \C)t/i, Thursday. ~ Another fine and cloudless da\', with hot sun. W'c sailed past the island o^ Crete with its sniiw-capped mountains, and had some stiualls of cold wind. When tlie dinner table was set, one ot" these scpialls made the shij) pitch aiul toss, transferriny the cloth with etceteras to tlie iloor, resulting;' in more pieces bein;^ i)icked up than went down. The table had to be reset with the " i'idelles," our first exi)erience in this vox'age of these useful appliances. The cricket anil auction sale took place as usual, and 330 won as the number i.f miles sailed. The drawint^-room amusements have had to be sus- pended, for some of the lailics — owin^" to various sensations — ha\e thoUL;ht it ad\-isable to retire. This afternoon ve had a " fire drill ' at 4 o'clock. There was much excite- ment, for the men went throusjh a rcLjular training;. All the bulkhead doors were closed, and the ship was dixided into five .separate parts for an hour. Xoi'cinhcr 20t//, Friday. — h'inc morniuL;', stn^iy; wind, and a rough sea. We ha\ e had a batl ) tight w ith a hea\y beam sea, which has rolled this great mass of a ship like a pill-box, and prevented most people fn)m sleeping", for it was not possible to lie still in the berths, and our boxes took short journeys on their own account. luer\'thing" was a little mixed this morning. l''ortunatel\- neither of us was ill, and both appeared at breakfast. There lias been a con- siderable breakage of pots and glasses, and a corresponding amount of squaring-up. It has been a fine tla\' with a gcjod breeze, and just sufficient sea not to be uncomfortable, yet affording ample excu.se for idleness. About 6 o'clock wc were evidently opposite tlie mc/ith of the Nile, for the water be- came muddy and discoloured. This continued until about 9, Voyage (o Ceylon. Ind just Iffordiivjj ,'c were later be- labout 9, when \vc sailed into VoxX. Said, and entered the Suez Canal. Great preparations had been made for coalins;'. The carpets were either taken uj) or co\ered, and everx'thini;' closed. Wlien we stopped op[)osite the onh' street it was a most remarkable sic;ht. Of course the usual small boats and merchants came aIonL;sitlc, and also six or ei;^lit bart:jes on eacli side of tlie ship, containinjjj over a hundred tons of coal each. At either end of each b.i.rLje was a larcje hre to i^ive liL!,ht, and on tlic- coals were standing;' hordes of men, — Coolies, Arabs, XiL;L;"ers, and people of all southern nations, — with bare feet and lej^s. They wore a kind of cloak, which the\' cast off when workin;^. Now all these men had throats which the\- used to the fullest extent of their power in sini^int;", or rather shoutins.^ a ditt\' ; such was the noise \'ou could not luar people speak. If the L;ates of the internal re;4ions had been openetl you could not ha\'e seen a more remarkable sii;ht, or heard a j^ieater confusion of tonL;ues. The run was ^-^2'-, miles. We are now 3,4:') miles from London, and 14 da\-s from the date of sail'. ;■. Ni'vcmbci- i\st, Satii!-<{(iy. — Rose earl)', and had the pleasure of secini;- a L;-ori;eous sunrise. The barj^es had just cast off after t;"ivin^- us 1,500 tons of coal, antl a quantity i>f fresh water. We started at once, and t^ot about live miles alon^; the Canal, when we were stopped at ;i sidinjj; to let two steamers pass. Ik'int;- a splendid mornin;j;, there was a j^ootl opporlunit}- for comprchcndint;' what the Desert of Arabia means. \\"hichever way xon look the sand meets the horizon, with thousanrls of birds, lookin<; like white patches. To the east appears a " mira;^e," as of islands and ships, with an occasional Arab in a pictures([iie costume walkint;- by the side of the Canal. Mi I p. U lAlvaor to Ccy/oii. Wc ));tssctl a part of the Canal al^out noon where some important works were LioinL; on. The number of .Arabs witii bare le^s, antl wearin;^ loose coats of blue, red, and other colcjurs, contrasting" with the sombre camels, of which it was estimated there were sevent)' or eii^hty carr\-ini;" stones in panniers, was a trul}' wonderful siijjht for those who have never been in the VAv.^i. Alonu" the side of the Canal is an iron pipe, which conveys Nile water from Ismailia to Port Said. We are now drinkini;' Nile water, A\hich looks tjrey and thick, antl not \'ery tempting;'. After a very pleasant day. with the brii^htest of sun- shine and a refreshing cool bree/.e, we passed many objects of interest, such as houseboats, where the l-'rench, who are engaged in many duties here, live. They seem to have (jnc or two females and a dog, and in the stern a hen-coop. Also there are the stations, which consist of a nice house and offices, with a flagstaff on which signals are exhibited. The fresh-water Canal turns away t(^ the west, ;ind goes along the Lake of Goshen. We had a splendid sunset, which gave great colour, and produced fine effects on the Lake of Timsah.- We are now steaming at a slow pace to Sue/, whe'-e this will be posted. The opportunit}' of seeing everything is great, for the ship only goes about four miles an hour, and is one of the largest w'hich has ever passed through the Canal. We are now sailing by electric light, both sides of the Canal being perfectly illuminated. After leaving Ismailia, where we remained only .ui hour, the electric projectors were again used, casting a light on both sides of the Canal. November 22iid, Sniidoy. — We arrived at Suez at 3.30 A.M., and left at 4.30 A.M. ; dispatched letters and two passengers. A splendid early morning, warm, with a '^S ..««* l''oyaor to Ceylon. some Ai'iibs d, and wliich irryine; those I if the r from water, )f sun- objects vlio are ave one :n-coop. \: house hibited. nd t^oes sunset, ects on ow pace for the one of I. We e Canal ail hour, hi^ht on Suez at crs and 1. with a cloudless sk\-. SaiMiuL;' down tht (iulf of Sue/, wliich has fine mountains both or the Iv^yptian and .\rai)ian sides, it was a wonderful picture, with lij^hts on the moiuitains aiii I ; mi i6 Voyao^c to Ceylon. \ u , i ' ■ ll ajiproachitiLj ships, as it was impossible to sec. .About sunset the weather cleared up after tweiit)'-four hours of lightning. Run of the ship 355 miles. Life on the Ophir — rise at 6.15. iMiglish time about 4 o'clock. Have a sea-bath, then rest half an liour. Tea served at 7 (don't have anj'J. Then dress, and, to quc^te \'orkshire, " have a side up." A walk on deck until breakfast, at S.30. After breakfast sit in d''ck chair for a couple of hours, or wander about talking to i)eople ; then an hour's work. Lunch at 12.30. Deck chairs again with "a short snooze." Sports or soine sort of amusement at 2.30 until 4, w hen the great meal of the day commences, " afternoon tea," which lasts about an hour. Another walk, then dress f, one very lar^f, with Umr masts; hundreds of " catamarans," with, for the most part, three dark brown Sinijalese or Tamils, some ver)- scantiU' clad ; a pocket-handkerchief of brit^ht yellow and red seemed to be full-dress attire. The catamarans are f(M-mcd by three pieces of board, or of the trunk of a tree scooped out, about ei' miles the train commenced ascend- in^' the mountain, and turned antl twisted u[) I in 40, until we reached Kandy, 1,700 feet abo\'e the \alle\-. Some of the detractors of tlic Scarborous^h and Whitby railway should see this line, and how twelve saloon carriat^es are taken up. The comin<4 down (jccupieil half an hour lonc^er, but in neitlier case was this ain- mar\el ; for the 104 miles first class we were onl\' charged \2s. Arriving' at Kandy about 1 i o'clock, after a most interesting journey, we turned out of the train, and then the redskins were let out, who, with their friends, made a great crowd, giving a colouring to the niasses of vegetation. We pro- cured a carriage and drove to the market, where tropical fruits were exposed f(jr sale. We then went round the lake to their "'Dalada Malegawd,'" or Temple of the (jreat Tooth. (See Eiicyclopicdia.) We saw the Governor's house and i^ardens, then visited the various streets of Tamils, Singalese, etc. Our next dri\-e was to the gardens of Paratleniza, about two miles awa)', where there arc specimens of every tree and plant that grows in Ceylon -cinnamon, cloves, nutmegs, cinchona, coffee, cocoa, tea, and various spices. Unfortunately a heavy shower came down, which lasted half an hour ; we had some shelter, but it was awful. Ten minutes after the Ccy/oii. 25 splfiuliil, \\\v little irn were " Ixint; ;i v;is most ckcn pic, offix-, for 1 iisccnd- 1 in 40, c xallcy. Whitby c saloon pictl half ' inar\cl ; rj^ccl I 2s. itcrcslin;4 redskins at crowd, W'c pro- j tropical d the lake :at Tooth. en visited Our next two miles and plant cinchona, unatcly a hour ; we I after the rain had ceaseti all was dried up cur clotiies as will • and the ;j;round appeared as if there had not been an\- rain tor a month. We had a tropical luiuli of fruit, washed down with cocoa-nut nu'lk. which was cool and ilelicions. We then visited a tea [)lantati()n and factor}', and saw the whole pr(;cess from i^atherini; io fmishiii;4. W'e joined tiie train at I*aradeni/.a, and returned t(j ColcMubo, haxin^;- afternoon tea. On the way we >aw some elephants enjoyini,^ a bath in the river, and main- carts drawn bv bullocks. W'e returnetl to the ship about ro. A 'ill S:n(;.\i.i;5|; Hl-i.lock \V.\t;c.u.N. TT^*" PMI 1: 1 1 ''i; 1 :| 'ii: ;i •■if!' •'i i';. 'W' " f!; 1 1 i ■ ''■"X". '. ■'t : ,.■' ;*■ f-'' 1 % ■I III. VOYAGE TO VICTORIA. H: :7«" ill ■MMHfaM ■i -t; '■" i -1 ■^^^r;'li CHAPTER III. I'OYAGE TO riCTOJUA. r\EClLMI>ER yd, T/in rs day.—Wc remained here until 12 o'clock. The harbour was a wonderful .siid, Moiidixy. — We could not eat our lunch, for the hot wind was " turned on," the temperature being 104 in the shade at the Observatory. Returning home the wind changed to the south, and the temperature in ten minutes fell over 40 , which seemed to chill us to the marrow, we being lightly clad. During the evening we went out again, but it was tcjo cold to be pleasant. Such sudden changes cannot be good for health. DeccJiibcr 2yd, Tuesday. — Had a long and pleasant interview with Mr. Goldstein, Secretary to the Charity Organisation Society, who is well up in the work, and most energetic. There is a large field for the .society's opera- tions, and it is well supported by the most influential people, who reap the benefit in the distribution of their other charities. The working expenses arc about L^QO a \'ear, for with such a large population it is requisite to have several officers to make inquiries. We arc invited to have an interview with the president. The afternoon was devoted to making calls. Dcrcmber 2\tli, Christinas Eve. — Very hot and dusty. Again went sight-seeing. The streets were crowded with holiday people and tho.sc bent on shopping ; the display of fruit and flowers was most striking. A little before 4 ^ wwr 'iCillil. 1 ■I'il ■ 'n' m ' .1 ■ ■ ii 40 / 'icloria. i'>i,»i \vc went to Spencer Street rail\v;i\' station, liaxinsj; procured tickets in the niorn'n;j," to l;"o to l^allarat. Ihe crowd was sonicthint; ap])allin4", but lia\inL;- little lu;4t;a;4<.', ,ind with the aid of" palm oil," we inanaL;e(.l to Liet into a Pullman Car. and fount! comfortable stats. \'er\- soon it was crowded with many who had to stantl all the w a}'. The first part of the iournc)-, as far as gcoloi^y was concerned, was fiat, cultivated counir\-, with the corn stantlini;" in stacks, but all looked quite burnt up for want of rain. After leaving; CjcelouL;" the line made an ascent, and wound round hills, through ;^reen valle\'s, until we i;'ot up 1,600 feet, and reached Hallarat, the " cit)' of <;old." Dcccinbo' 25,'//, Clivistiiias D.iy. — It thd not look much 'ike Christmas, with ripe cornfields and fruit, cverx'thiuL; beariui;" a midsiunmer aspect, and a hot sun. This is a most peculiar city, ha\inL;' fine wide streets. Sturt Street is on tlie Continental plan — with a row, or rather a pkuitation, of trees up the middle with seats. In this street arc the principal buildint;"s, town hall, etc., large .shops, and !_;"ood hotels. l-"arther from the town arc L;ood pri\ate residences, showing' .evidence of great wealth ; and a little more than a nn'le off is a fine lake, Windermere, one mile antl one-eighth in tliameter, sur- rounded with beautiful trees and walks Steamers ply across this to the l^otanical Gardens, which are prettily laid out with good specimen trees and aviaries of Aus- tralian birds, also statuary presented by rich citizens. All this is most attractive, and very creditable for so young a city, which is still prospering upon its gold, which constitutes the peculiarity ; for wherever you go there arc " claims," which means gold mining in some form or other. Some have pretentious machinery, with shafts going down 1,000 feet, while others seem to be digging near the surface. ill procured ■i)\vd was and with hnan Car, ; crf)\vdcit first p;iit , was flat, ks, but all .■r leaving jund hills, feet, and lOok much cvcr)-thin!^- idc streets. a row, or ^vith scats, hall, etc., the town I. of great fine lake, meter, sur- eamers ply n-e prettily OS of Aus- ch citizens, able for so gold, which o there arc rm or other, going down the surface. X o < !/5 H X 'J H P"PI*P m.i ■•!!' : Ml f ; ■:ii.:«! .;;ri:: ;.!,■ :ti' -' ii F c t: V t: a r V Ii q ti 11 n \' Ic si h a d Ii SI 4 "ill (c Victoria. 43 Tlic wind became cold, sf) we rccunied liome, and liad ■,>t iM.T Christinas dinner of roast beef, ro.ist goose, and plum pu IditiLj with fresh fruit. It became so cold that we sat ovc. th" "yule log," and talked about our friends at home, who w_-ild be enjoying their breakfasts about the same time, , .1(1 no doubt talking of us. December zGth. — A fine morning. We visited a large " claim," or gold mine, but the machinery was not at w ork. This ga\e an opportunity of a thorough explanation of the process, which is simple enough ; the earth of a pale drab colour, and sand is brought up from different strata, and then ground by machinery, which, with the addition of water, reduces it to a pulp ; this runs over flannel, leaving the fine gold and other metals, while the sand is carried away by the water. This process, with variations, is -repeated several times, .so that it seems impossible for any gold to escape. All the metals are collected and after- wards subjected to heat, which disposes of volatile metals h'ke arsenic, then the whole is put into a cylinder with quicksilver, which absorbs all the other metals, and leaves the gold pure, worth £.\ ^s. j[d. per ounce. From this " claim " last year 77,000 ounces were sold. Sometimes nuggets are found, one quite recently, weighing ^2 ounces. We visited another " claim " in full operation, but did not learn anything more, except that after all the science and skill adopted in extracting gold, there is sufficient left to have attracted a colony of Chinese, who pay a trifle to be allowed to operate upon the rejected mud. This the\' do by patient hand labour, and John Chinaman makes a lixing. They are said to work twenty-four hours a day, and smoke opium on Sunday, when gold business is prohibited. We next visited China Town, and saw two " Jost Hou.ses ' (churches), and a large number of wooden boxes, which V:, I :;! i/ii;j"j ipi 'I ii' ■■■ ■ 'I .1' ',;i ^;L'.;i d' ( ; 1 t^(i ■I .-'■; ■i'!^!:'; !:;:::": 44 I'^ictoria. did not look much like dwellings. In the main street then- were Chinese sliops and eating-liouses. Some of the richer men have married white women, and )'ou see curious children running about, dressed half Chinese and half European, with odd-shaped faces, some fat and rounti, with coarse mouths and two little slit eyes ; others just the reverse, Chinese faces with large blue English eyes. What the next generation may be is a good (.[uestion for speculation. The College of Mines is a fine institution, which attracts students from all over the colony, and is presided over by many able men. A School of Art is just being opened, and a Mr. S. S , from South Kensington, has got the appointment of headmaster. A new Infirmary is also going to be built forthwith on a large scale. This being holiday time, we have not had a fair opportunity of judging the place in its natural every- day life. Nevertheless, there is ever)' appearance of pn-sperity. The eucalyptus, or blue gum, grows to an immense size, and is to be found in most of the streets. We had the opportunity of seeing it in full flower, which made it look quite gay. The flowers appear, when on the tree, some- thing like chrysanthemums, but in the hand more like a flattened thistle. It again became quite cold, so we went " home." Diceinbcr 2'jth, Sunday. — I was taken ill during the night with a sharp attack. Temperature up to I02 . Dr. L said it was typhoid fever. I did not think so, for the attack was too sudden and virulent. La\- in bed four davs, takintj only soda-water and milk. December Si-v/. — Convalescent, but weak ; had a change of diet. JiJ:'.'!' trcct there the richer :e curious and half nd round, Dthcrs just gUsh eyes, uestion for ch attracts ed over by ng opened, has got the j also going lad a fair ural every- learance of imcnsc size, \c had the uide it look tree, some- more like a so we went ng the night Dr. L Dr the attack days, taking ad a chatiLa^ Victoria. 45 January \st, 1892, Friday. — Much better; had a drive round the outskirts of the city, which is very pretty. The country is hilly, well wooded, and interspersed with "claims." There arc many nice, and some pretentious residences, with fine roads, in the style of London suburbs, broken now and again with old shanties, and remains of the original gold-digger. January Did. — We left Ballarat and our friends this morning with regret, and with much gratitude for all kindnesses. Before leaving there was a sandstorm, which filled the atmosphere with sharp sand, until the whole place seemed obscured ; then came a welcome rain. Any one who has not seen this cannot imagine the effect, for it is prodigious. It fills your pockets, and neither eyes nor mouth can escape its fury. Arranged to start on Thursday for Tasmania, and from thence to New Zealand, returning to Australia about the 20th of January. January ^rd, Sunday. — Went to St. Paul's Cathedral ; a good service, and well filled with gaily dres.sed people. The familiar sounds made us feel almost at home again. In the afternoon we paid a visit to St. Kilda, which is a sea- side suburb with promenade and baths. There were crowds of people enjoying the fresh air, and everything looked " John Bull." January ^i/i, Monday. — We were busy all the morning taking baths, and making arrangements for going to Tasmania, for the steamer sails on Thursday, and many people are travelling just now. I'hcre is great excitement with reference to the Inter- national cricket match ; every one seems to be L^oinsj-. We intend doing so to-morrow, all being w ell. There are so many things to see and places to visit, that time goes "-p^pp IM m I"!'*'. 46 PI ii or id. ^1' much too fast, consequently writing has to suffer. It is something like being in London, " a never end." The weather is not considered hot for tlie .season ; it is most changeable. 1^'or some hours it is roasting, and in a few minutes it is quite cold, consequently very trying, especially to " new chums." January ^t/i, Tuesday. — We again spent the day in visiting various places, although the weather was most depressing and unpleasant, a hot v.ind blow ing, which means not only heat but clouds of dust, such as we never experience at home. In addition there was a plague of flies. These are neither modest nor retiring. They attack you to obtain moisture, the eyes being their favourite visiting point. Taking into consideration that this city has only been in existence about fifty years, it is perfectly wonderful that so many institutions are flourishing and in splendid stone buildings. Many of them are charities well supported, in the absence of any Poor Law, by the rich having sympathy with those in need, there being no workhouses where the destitute may find shelter. When at the Charity Organisa- tion Society's office this morning I learnt that General Booth's visit had been quite a failure, and that the Victorians will not be troubled much more with his scheme. The Zoological Gardens are well laid out, and contain a goodly show of animals from all parts of the world, even to an English fox. We were most interested in the Australian birds and beasts. There is a fine building in Swan.ston Street, answering the combined purposes of a free library, museum of art, technological treasures, curiosities, sculpture, and a gallery of paintings, under one roof Here we saw many pictures which had been exhibited in our Royal Academy of Arts, including paintings by Long, Alma Tadema, Victoria. 47 It is Orchardson, Watcrhousc's " L'lysscs and the S)Tc.'ns," shown last year, a large water-colour presented by Walter Severn, and many others equally familiar. Colonel Bull most politely showed us over the C'it\' (laol, a fine building, with over fi\-c hundred inmates, male and female. All the executions and (loggings are done here. The gallows is a permanent machine, in the main hall, always ready for use, but not observable. It requires .so little preparation that in about two minutes all is ready, without knocking or fixing. Surely an advance on our sj'stem. The labour question, as with us, is a diiTiculty. For men stone-breaking and oakum-picking, for wc^nen washing and rough sewing. Little food is given. January 6t/i, Wednesday. — A splendid morning, with a pleasant, cool air, very refreshing after yesterday. We visited Cole's Book Arcade, said to be the largest book-selling shop in the world. Over a million books, old and new, are offered for sale, in addition to stationery, picture prints, cards, albums, purses, and all kinds of porcelain and china vases. There is a library and free reading-room, with a lift \\\i to each floor. It is a won- derful establishment, and well worth a visit, being free to every one, whether purchasers or not. I .11 ,'s '.'ffff" •i i ' ';'* kfp;'' %■•'!-. Vt. I :M' I V. r AS.] /A A' /.I I.... ,1 III ^ m m\ J W.'l vis in thi cos b;u our ant diff troi deli croi stc;i four ■I i iHr I'll i's'li!:!!': CHAPTER V. TASM.LVIA. OT./AV'JA'K jt/i, Ti!iirsdav.—-\\\oX\\c\: fine day, but *y r;itlicf hot. We spent the morning in arranging our higgage ; for it was found requisite to reduce our impedimenta when visiting New Zealand, whicli, it appears, is much hke .\or\va>' in ihe matter of being able to get about with luggage, so this awkward fact had to be faced, and the vision of dinner costumes, etc., abandoned for a small box and Gladstone bag. The heavier portion was sent on to Sydney, to await our arrival there in .six weeks' time. The feeling was akin to the man who buried his wife and then said, " I am glad she has gone." only with this difference, that in six weeks we shall meet our demon of tremble again. After partaking of " afternoon tea " wc started with cnir delightful little packages for the wharf, where we found crowds of people, and the usual bustle of a departing Steamer. We soon got on board the Rotomahana, a fine Steamer of the New Zealand Company, and found some four hundred fellow-passengers bound for Tasmania. Of (T'TIJ e ,1 ' I 52 V'dS iitaiiia. coursf, this stciiiKT is not of tlu' O/'liir Ivpt.', l)Ut like tliosi which run from London to Gl;is<;ow, etc. W i' arc cxpccliii.; a j^ood i)lo\v when out of thi' l)a\-. Thi I hads arr fort\- milts from Mclhoiinic. W hill ill Melbourne we wire advised to arraiv^e with Messrs. '1 hoiiias ("00k i\- .Son for our trip throUi;li l*r--t t;/., -.«%-^. I.AUNfF.SrON. Tasmania and New Zealand. Their atjent, Mr. Harrison, we have to thank for his kindness and trouble in planniiv^ a six weeks' tour, which answered admirably. The railway and coach tickets commanded every attention, securing for us the best scats and preference in crowded places, as wili as saving a large amount of trouble. t 7 as mania . ^Ts like thosi cxpcciiiiL:; > ;u"r flirt \' •jiiVjfc with ) lhn)UL;h Ir. Harri-^"!!. ill plaiuiiiv^ The railway sL'Curiii'j, to. aces, as wcli I'cttirc Iiaviii'^ I.nnddii we secured, tliroUL;li this eminent fii'in, li Iters (if credit, which •.-.(.•re a\-ailal)le all round the \vi irld. lainiary S///, /'VvV^M'.- Have had a storin)- iiij^ht, and did not L;it nuu'li sleep, for the ship rolled a i^ood deal. .\i)out 9 o'cK.ck we passed the lii^hthouses and entered the ri\ir Tauiar, which is very fnie, uindin;^ round hills clothed with trees down to llu- walei-'s eds^e. In some places it is . four or li\e miles wide, in other parts ([uite narrow, nuich n-^emblint;' some of tlu- "fiords'" in Xor\va\'. At a plac called l>t.oscriar we had to tranship into a steam launch and continue our journe)-, arriviiiLj at Launccston at j o'clock. After securintli, Wednesday. — W'e walked to Sandy Ba) , aii'l on our return saw the hospital, lunatic asylum, and [)ri>un. This place seems to suffer under the stigma of \-~ -/'V ■'■' Vm iKm Fkkn 1'rei; ISowiiK. formerly being a convict station, and in the neighbourhood the pris(jns still exist, especially at X(jrfolk. In the as\-lums there are convicts who became lunatics. As you go along and see a fine house, on inquiring tlie name of the resident, the reply is frequently Mr. , " a l;ig," — that is, a former convict. There is a magnificent hi'-jse overlooking the Harbour built by "a settler," who is said to be very rich. To-morrow we sail in the Te .liican for the Bluff, New n rj I mm'" m. ii'l ■':i^:i:lt:j: ;8 'JasDuinia. Zealand, 1,200 miles, a v^oyage of six days. The ship is small, being only 1,500 tons, and the passage generally rough ; but we are getting to be good sailors. Jainiary \\tJi, Thursday. — A wet day, the first we have experienced ; so spent some time in the Museum and Aquarium, which are free and open every day. The building is of considerable dimensions and of fine yellow sandstone. The Museum is devoted to the Australias, Tasmania, New Zer.land, and the South Sea Islands ; it is most interesting to visitors of these countries. The Aquarium is devoted to the fish of the Pacific, which are truly wonderful in shape and colour, but very few are good to eat. The principal one is the Trumpeter, and is plentiful. The ship, in which we were to sail at 5, did not arrive, in consequence of rough weather outside, so had to stay another day. Some went to the theatre, whilst we spent a quiet evening. 1/ 1 f'itr;ff."' III!;: 1 ■■■ ■ h mm ii;;,'i.i ''N:^ liilji; • ■' 'i J chapti-:r VI. NEW ZEALAND. lA^ClRY \':)th, Friday.- The whole population were much shocked to hear of the death of Prince Albert X'icior. The inhabitants showed their loyalty by hoistini," tl. ■^^I^>li M it m 11 if flu' villi': W ■ 'm 'lift ) !.:i fi!: '.II I ■ >:'!i:, ■it I; ■I r ! \ !i .,'*-iM 62 ^yit'Ta Zia/aud. about ; but tlicy do not trouljlr us, tor tl'icir .mx' huiulrcds of boxes of peaches, apricots, and cherries i^oinij from Ilol)art to New Zealand, h'ruit-^njwin^ in Tasmania must be- an important industr>', and the people cat fruit at every meal. At 5 o'clock the bell rani;' t(j clear the shii) of those not g'oing on. There were I30 passenj^ers — far too many for such a ship, 40 beiny; without berths. The sail out of harbour occupied ribout an hour, and of the river two .norc\ The scenery is splendid, and for two hours we had a view of Hcjbart and Mount \VellinL;t(jn, where we had spent such a pleasant week, and have left with delightful memories of kind people, beautiful scenery, and most genial climate. \Vc were fairly into the Pacific about 9, coming across the tail end of a storm with a heavy swell, and not much chance of a comfortable night. January \6t/i, Saturday. — After a rough night, and not much sleep in the hardest possible berth, we got up with rather sore bones to find there was plenty of room, man}' having retired prematurely from the festive board. The swell continued all day with a cold wind, which was iK^t enjoyable. We are told this is fair weather for the Pacific, which is a misnoiner, for in these parts it is considered the roughest sea in the world. /aiiiia>y i////, Sunday. — The wind has changed, and the .sea gone down to s(jme extent, but the swell continues, making the ship roll. At 10.30 there was a Church of England service- two clergymen, one a Colonial, the other an Oxford Professor, but their names did not transpire. They could not between ihem raise a sermon. There was another service in the aUrrnoon. Most people seem satisfied with the religious performances of the day. :-ii !, Nczu Zca/atid. .\'()tliin;_; hut ihc vast cx])aiise of the ocean with some aibalfoss i^f.'.cefully tlj'inu;", tlie stormy petrel, and a liii^ht of wh.ite swallows, lias been seen all da)'. Jiviiiiirv 1 8///, Moiiiiay. — The sea has increased with wind aiiil rain, our comfort decrcasini; in like prf)portion, as well as the ])rofit ; for even with the fiddles on the tables L;lass laid china go, not to Jai)an, but to pieces. Presentations could be done chcajily here, as pieces of plate are so plenti- ful they are thrown overboard. The time has now reached I \\ hours before (ireenwich, so that, for the most part, we can calculate what is doini;- at home. When we arc up, you are in bed, and vice versa. There is a curious custom on this line of steamers on the last ni;4ht of the voyage. Although dinner is only fini.shed about 7.30, at 9.30 supper is served, consisting of red herrin;js, which coinc from Aberdeen in tins, mutton chops iVini. and baked potatoes. It may be a gratific.itiou to llie colonists, but the fumes all over the ship of red lurrings ;ire enough to upset the strongest stomach. This performance lasted till midnight. JaniKiry ic)th, Tuesday. — About 8 o'clock we entered Bhiff Harbour, and landed about 9, and were very glad to get out of the herring-stricken ship, for it was impossible to sleep in such an atmosphere. .A special train took us to Invercargill, a thriving agricul- tuial town with streets 75 yards wide and avenues of trees We dined at the Albion Motel, built and kept b)' a lady from Hull. At 4.30 we started for Lumsden, a littU town in tlx: mount.'ins, and travelled through a tine agricultural cuuiilry, well stocked with cattle, horses, and thousands of sheeji, the gi;;ss and crops b(-in'>; most abimdant, but the population very thin. We arrived at Lumsden soon after S, l\ I Mm li .:i;i:i 64 A'iic /caland. ;'1 /It ■■si*:i:. •'!■:■ • i ■: \ I iCSi"-. ., |.§^,i!!' ami found a \illa;4L' ofabdUt 300 pi-oplc, situatid om plain llitiiuu.li wliicli a river flows. ar-r lir i)lain is surnunul !)>■ niounlanis, and looks much like sonic places 111 tin i lii;lilaiids (T Scotland. VVc took up dir (|uarters at tin l''.ll)o\v Hotel, a small but cc.mfcjrtable house ke])t b}' a .Mr. i-'lelchif, late of Loiulon. January lot It, Wcdncs- \ day. — A \ery fine niorniny; ; had ;i climb up one of the hills, from which there was a fine \iew. On returninij dined off roast sirloin of beef, etc., and afterwartls went to the L^ardens to eat rii)e l^ooseberries. At .4. we left for Kin;4ston, a nice ride thioUL^h beautiful country, and came to " \\ akatipii Lake," where wc' embarkeil (Ml a steamer and sailetl for Ouecnstown, a pretty little town situated about the '-rjjj^„T,n,B^-^'^ ' - ,^ middle of the lake — 52 miles lon<^ — w^hcre there is an Tin; 1'vi:ji.\i;kai!Li;.s (7,200 ikkt iik.ii). . . . , . opemn;4 m the mountains, which are from 4,000 to 9,000 feet high, and tpiite barren. The Kemarkables, 7,200 feet, opi)osite Ouecnstown, look like polished slate, not having a \'est]ge of vegetation. The lake re-embles some of the Norwegian fiords, onl\' the mountains are higher ; the water is the bluest of the blue, and the whole presenting a magnificent spectacle. January 2\st, I'linrsday. Spent the day in sailing on the lake and in walking to see sight.s. Ik ■ i.'i ,,iv r y, •;i)J|»y,.i.i I I u 1 .Vifi -M ' ;i';i;f" ■ 'It 3. > ■('■7 hfM <(■ : • ' Cl!' li.jjil i ■ >••<: ii ■ (1 tr 111 sh pl- an frc ha \V(J arr 7 brc wli sev twc buil wo I (jra h(»U his he 1- Ros frorr proc gooc ruRs wool most inacl chest Nciu Zealand. 67 JanH(in> 22H(f, /vvV/r?;'.— -Sl.'irtctl ;it 6, and sailjd on tlu' lake, break fasti 11^" on board, and much cnjoyini; the troiil. ( hi landini; \vc went by train, which was Httlc better than a Uainway, only ■*% 70 A/'eiu Zealand. ,:r«, 1 January 26t/i, Tuesday.- — Another splendid day. W'c were obliijed to rise early to complete our visit to Christchurch. ;;s the coaches onlj' run twice a week, which cut short the time at this, the most luiglish-lookin;^ town in New Zealand, with its cathedral, and streets laid out like the lines on a chessboard, and the pretty river /\von. This is the home of the English Church and retired colonists who have made a littk; pile, and where society revolves in small circles. We went by railway to Sprini^field, w here three coaches were waitinc; to take passengers to the l^ealey and through the Oteira gorge. Fortif}'ing the inner man and getting packed in the box-seats of an American coach did not occupy long. The coach was of the same pattern as that used in the Exhibition of the I^^ar West, and constructed to sustain any amount of wear and tear. The springs are of leather, and the wheels and axles more like a stone waggon than a coach. At 1 2.30 we started with fifteen passengers, all told, drawn by five horses. It w.is called " The Royal Mail," having half a ton of mail-bags to deliver before the coach completed its journey to a place called Hokitika, on the west coast. The driver, a Yorkshireman, shouted " All aboard ? " and with a crack of the whip sent the iiorses off at a rattling pace, which was continued for 10 miles, until the arrival at Ponter's Pass, constructed like a corkscrew on the face of a mountain, where the speed was reduced to 2 miles an hour. Many of us walked and enjoyed the bracing air until the saddle * of the pass was reached, 3,000 feet high. Here a fine view was obtained of mountains and Lake Lyndin, to which \\c descended. The roads are cut in the face of the mountains, and are only sufficiently wide for the coach ; and, as there is no protection, the wheels are frequently within a few inches of the edge of the precipice of * A niountn'in pass. Ah'zo Zealand. 71 Iniiidrcds of feet, with a roririn;^ river at the bottom, or hui^c rocks, wliicii would on contaet perforate your skull, if any- thing should happen tc the horses or to the wheels of the coach. After crossing several rivers with beds of stones half a mile wide, there being no bridges, we reached Cloudesley Accommodation House, and changed horses at 4 o'clock. I Icre afternoon tea was provided, with scones which are celebrated all over New Zealand. Mrs. Cloudesley c[uar- rcl'ed with us because we cut one with a knife, saying it was " no canny." This tea was much enjoyed, and the conversation v»-as upon the clangers of such a road, 150 miles costing the Government ^^^300,000, to make a com- munication from the east coast to the west with its goldfields. Starting again with a fresh tt:ain we passed several lakes, one called Grassmere, and then came to the Waimakarin river, which is from one to two miles wide. Here the road, if worthy of being so called, was for some distance in the bed of the river, and " rattled our bones over the stones " with such internal concussions (read infernal), that wc concluded our mortal clay must be well baked or it would have gone to pieces. At Cragieburn another change of horses, and still continuing along the Waimakarin river, sometimes hundreds of feet above, and at others going along the bed of stones. The mountains increased in height and grandeur with snow-caps and glaciers. \\\ practice our nerves became harder ; and although we weie in more dangerous places, our hearts were not so fre- ([uently in our mouths. About 8.30, after seeing the sun set with various effects, we arrived just before dark at the Healey Accommodation House — a bungalow, with bedrooms like ships" cabins. On entering we found a most acceptable and large wood fire, also a good supper. Coaches coming In mi the other side met here; and fortunately we arrived l\ ■•'■;■,■ I f-ri-i •"■■''•Si; VA.1 !:'?:' t\ ;,'':^:,:J,!.r:,i *»'.'.' V" 'I I ' ^' ! I'll ' lis" i i. |i' ■''''•i \ ..1" : '■;.. ' ti. ! 1' ' ; i AVij Zealand. first, and liad the choice of bedrooms. The choice, h(A\ever, consisted in a small one-, or none at all. About fift\' people wire in the house with twelve bedrooms, consequentlx" many had to do without ; but they were as well off as those with beds as far as sleep w ent, because there was such an amount of talkini;- and lauL;hing that it was impossible to sleep. All the anecdotes from Balaam and his ass to the "Maori tpieen's stockint;"s " were related, and were heard b\' those in bed. [aiiiinrv 2~t/i, /r^v/zAW^/./r.— Soon after 3 A.M. there seemed to be a ;j,eneral nioxe. .Some went to the ri\-er for a bath, others used buckets of water in the road. A little after 4 breakfast was served, and at 5 o'clock we were in our seats on the coach, and were- introduced to our driver, a Welshman Artliur Da\-is — the best whip m New Zealand ; a short, stout m;in, with a rcnuid, merry face and a pair of laughint; eyes, dressed in a Norfolk jacket, and crowned with a bandit's hat. He called out " Hall aboard?" and with a shrill whistle and a crack of his loni; whip the horses, five in number, started, after a few jumps and kicks, at full gallop, cheered b\- his " Coey ! " After goini;' for half a mile we descended and cros.scd the Waimakarin river b}' a winding ford over its rough bed a distance <.)f a mile or more; and again our "bones rattled over the stones," preparing us for a long, steep walk. Our course now followed another river, until we reached what .seemed an impassable place — a ckI dc sac. Here our coachman stopped and addressed liis passengers : " Ladies and gentlemen, when the Prince of Wales was here he said, ' The road we are now uoinsj' is much better for the horses if the passengers w alk, and in fact wc cannot tret to the top without,' so 1 suggest \-ou should all follow the example of the I'rince of Wales " (who never was there). So out we ■yilli,; ' ■• the xl a bed our dies aid, )rscs the nple t we ; I I ■J N'riU Zealand. /v-) jiiiu'd, and walked up in the fresh, cold air, and admiri'd MdUiU Rolleston, whicli formed one side of the zis^zag S.ooo feet), and \i(A our nearest view of the i;lacier. After I loiiL^and heart-tryint;- walk we arrived on the saddle, :;,0-!0 ;"cet ''or the same hci^iht as Skiddawj, from which there was ,1 fine view down the Oteira, and backwards down the Ikaley, being surrounded by snow-capped mountains. Our driver now with great care examinetl the harness (if each horse, as also their feet, then the wheels and brake, L;i\ing the impression that some more than ordinary road h.'.tl to be travelled. Our journe\' has been so far on the Sn(iw-(:.\i'1'i:ii Mountains. east side of the mountain Rolleston, with little or no foliage, the mountains being quite bare; but now, looking down on the western side, the trees and foliage are of the richest description, the lower range of mountains being clothed with huge trees. A large proportion are the Rata, just now in full bloom with flowers of the brightest scarlet, ;iii(l the ribbon tree, with white flowers, mixed with the New Zealand birch, having ftjliagc more like our myrtle, giving the richest hue to the Oteira Gorge. " Driver, how deep is the valley just beneath where we are standing ? " "N'eail\- 2,000 feet," was the reply. "Have we to L;ct down there?" "Yes." "But how?" "If vou are .'I,! ■ ^ "ii! ^iW i!l '^i' v: ■ •!;-(••: *'i\ 11 Sm •I ;!:.!•;"!■ ■■J 'i-ii •v.. *!■ ,i 'I1 . » ■ w. .M' ■•■■■: t ' Kfr'ii ■T' :. 1 I ''' ; !i'- ' t- ,''«' .f! ! r.; • 74 iA^i7c; Zealand. p;iticnt for an lioiir \-ou will sec." W'c soon found out ; for there is a narrow, windini; road on the face of the inountain. down which the coach-and-five went ; and many times, wheii turning;" acute an<;les, we were only a few inches from til ■ shortest way to the bottom. If the narrow road down which we tr.ivelled had t^nven waj', or one of the horses had fallen, or a wheel had come off, or a trace had broken, our chances would have had to be calculated. Some of the turns were so sharp that the leaders disappeared from sif:jht. The horses were sent round at a good speed, or the coach would not have turned in such a small space. The effect on the coach was soinething like a ship when struck by ;i heavy sea. It groaned, and .seemed to shake from end to end, an ordeal that struck terror into most of the passengers ; and when the coach stopped opposite the Oteira Hotel ever\- one looked awe-stricken, and " gladly sorry and horribl}" glad it was over." Davis, the driver, coolly remarked, " After that you will be ready for some mutton chops, which are provided by Mrs. Charles O'Malley." Many, how- ever, were unable to eat, being still in a state of " funk." The scenery is magnificent, but the road cannot, we think, be equalled for its nerve-trying features. After our second breakfast, and with a fresh team, we had another stage of 15 miles to "Jacks" through some wonderful scenery. From Jacks we entered what is called the Twelve Miles Avenue — a road through a forest of huge trees with undergrowth of tree ferns from 2 feet to 25 feet, umbrella ferns, and other kinds, only grown under glass in England. It w;is a wonderful change from the former scenery, and superbly beautiful. In all our travels we never saw a road through such scenery ; it quite surpassed that of Norway or Switzerland, and I think there is not such a coach drive of I ;o miles. We arrived at Kinnard about x o'clock — a , wc ; • our i ;thcr crful -elvc with rclla and. and , road }' \\a\- i lri\c _{ c a Al'zo Zealand, 75 . iKl-iniiiint;" villai^c, and very u_L;ly, and there availed our- M Ives (jf a tram to go to Greymouth. Now this is an original construction of wood, and goes through the bush Imt S miles. The car is a wooden box, holding eight people ; ;i!ul i^ drawn by a horse. Halfway we came to a river about a (.[uarter of a mile wide, with banks 50 feet deep ; xross which a wire is stretched, and on this travels a cage h( tiding six persons. It was a curious sensation bL'in;; '^^ \K Chossinc; a Ri\i;i<. suspended over this large river ; but we landed on the other side all right, and found another tramcar which look us to (ireymouth, our resting-place for the night -a welcome rest, too, fcjr we were tired. January 2S//', I'hursaay. — Spent the morning in Grey- mouth, a pretty little .seaport on the west coast, and in the afternoon went to Reefton by rail and coach, passing :'. colliery village called " W'allsend." The line and coach tollowcd a river, .some parts of which arc very pretty, and in the others the original bush still remains. Arriving at ' ' ' i. ', 1 • 1 :: m K --^m r ; f^ ;■' \^'k F ^HSi i !; ^i% % '■'jH 'hi Mm MM '4 1'' •- 1 ',.,:.■ hi; '11 ft. .If"" I ' ■ :"'if :M '•4!i. h\.: -1. ■■:.*,! l^'i I 1:1 [■• ^5 If. ■'AV .■,1 1 ' '' '. i • I i.. ' i 76 JVczu Zealand. I\(.cfl()n, ;i prcjsi^rrous-lookiiijj; iiiiiiin!4 town, w lure', for tlii iiinsl part, all the men arc L;()ld tlii;L;crs, \\c look up oui ([uartcrs at Stephenson's Hotel, ami were called upon by Mr. Lew is, nian:!L;\r of the New Zealand liankin;^' Company, who told us, amoni;' other thini^s, that the excitement of a diL;i;er's life is L;reater than that of horse-racini;' or ^anibliuL;. /(Vnidiy 29///, Friday. — It rained hard all niL;ht, but fortunately cleared in the uiorninL;', and became a splendid day without dust ; this was encouray;in^', for our coach drive was to be over 60 miles. W'e started at 8.30 with a fine team of four horses, and (jccupied the box-seat. The first 1 5 miles were throUL;"h the bush, with scarcel)' a house or a luursan beinij or an animal of any kinti in sij^ht ; only luii;e trees, with an abundant undcri;rowth (.1 ferns of all kinds. Then we forded several creeks. In sonu' places the water was r.itlier deep, and the larL;e stones at the bottom gave the coacli some awful jumps. A lady wa> thrown from her scat, because she was too proud tcj hold on. Fortunately for her she was not much the wcjrse, but it might have proved serious. It quite took the pride out of her, and she held tight the remainder of the way. After the 15 miles we came to the " Inarghua," a fine and picturesque river, which had to be crossed by the coach, horses, and passengers in a boat at a deep place. Tlic sensation was curious, sitting on a coach, sailing in a boat. For this luxury each person had to pay 6d., and the coach and horses 5^'. The river continued to flow and wind its way through a thickly wooded gorge, with the road some- times on the same level, and at others 400 or 500 fee i above. In the woods we got some lovely views. On nearing Lyell the river runs into the Buller, forming i mighty stream. At the junction there is a house where we dined, ar,fl then continued for 30 miles through the cek- i I I MM ,! SI / mill •• If thai Sul part i'ii;i(l 11' '1 ( .Alan llollS l; Ml 1(1 with* I coacj' din nc Ins t(»ok X' on piece 'A:k\ t \\V he n A \'iew uith Here fields dance >'f .\, name '■\iiich n^ ;'!•!: J hold sc, bill dc oul way. a finu coach, . The a boat. c(^ach ind its somc- oo feet •s. On ming a Bicrc wc % /Vi'zc Zcalami. 77 iM'aUil HuIKt (ior^c, and at S d'clock arrived at Li iiiL^ttird, ,! snlilary lioii-^t' in the bush, wliere wc spent the ni^lu. /iiininn' lO/// Satiini'iv.- -Wc rose soon after 5, and stirted at 6.30 for another 60 miles' (h'i\e, tin: first \2 miles beini;- still in the l^uller (lorL^^e. until arrixint;' at " liope lunction," when we turned U) the left and followctl that river for 1 5 miles, and then ascended the "Iloi)e S uldle," 2,000 feet, which hatl to be walked for the m(;si part. llow horses could pull up a coach over such a pKid is a wonder; but the teams are first-rate, and would tint discredit Rotten Row. We descended into the valley oi" Manikupitu, and found our dining-placc; at 2.30, — u public- house standing quite alone, with its solitar)' proprietor, a <^()(id-l(joking Bushman, who lost his wife, and now lives without a companion or servant. He has to lo(jk after eight coach horses and a couple of cows, make the butter, cook a dinner three times a week for the coach pas.scngcrs, serve his customers with drinks, etc., etc. When wc arrived he t(Kjk the horses out of the coach, invited the ladies to a room, served a dinner for seventeen, consisting of a fine piece of ribs of beef and sago pudding;, a cup of tea each, aiul then put four fresh horses into the coach in 25 minutes I We gave him credit for being a wonderful man, and hope he may soon find a helpmate. Another 2 hours' spin over a saddle from which a fine view was obtained brought us to Bellgrave, a pretty village, with hop gardens and fruit orchards reminding us of Kent. liere we took a train through a fertile valley with corn- tields in the midst of harvest, and h _ ► I V] <^ /}. >? y //A Hiotcgraphic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 1 4580 (716) 872-4503 Zfi w- i A 'WTT |;f|!:|; 111 m 1 1 ■: • CHAPTER VII. NEW ZEALAND -NORTH ISLAND—MAORI COUNTRY. WE were much struck with the mat:;nificcnt harbour. It is completely landlocked, forminij an immense basin surrounded by high hills, and is calculated to hold all the fleets of the world. The " Empire City," as it is called, occupies the side farthest from Cook's Straits. The wharves arc extensive ; and on account of the deep water, the largest ship can moor alongside. The warchou.scs for wool, flax, and grain, the Custom Houses, Post Office, and two long business streets occupy the flat portion of the city, while the residences of the inhabitants are studded about the hills and gullies. There is a fine Hospital, Lunatic Asylum, and some churches belonging to different de- nominations. Government House is not a striking place, and the Parliament buildings are only poor ; but when it is considered that these are, for the most part, of wood and plaster, there is not much with which to find fault. The most striking object is a new prison, being built of red brick on the top of a hill by the prisoners. It is 6 if " w 1 1 :l! 'r,ii:>' i. i; ?' ■ 1/ ■•■<• ..I .1 (■ i^!' 82 A^(7a Zealand — North Island — Maori Conn fry. a conspicuous object, sut^t:jcstin[; that w hen a man descends to crime, he is exalted to prison. This city is well up in all the improvements of the age, the town being lighted by the electric light, and the tele- phone being general. There are all kinds of amusements, for with the short hours of labour the people have much spare time. In summer cricket and football arc indulged in, and in winter theatres and other places of amusement arc provided. '^i5i ' " ■^'::?5H»«* '''■-'**-— —""^;.-=- — -^i«^i^»r'-^"'~' -|i '-S-"^!*, Wellington. Most people work from 8 until 5 o'clock, with an hour for dinner, and the shops close at 6 o'clock. This afternoon we saw for the first time two Maori ladies. They wore garments like opera-cloaks, of thick wool, large red and yellow check about 2 inches square, and red stockings. They had dark, restless eyes, with the glitter of a rattlesnake ; their mouths were capacious, like a codfish or a coalscuttle ; their lips as thick as a penn\' roll, covered with lines and patterns from the nose to the V' laon Ihick larc, the like ?nn)' the iW-zu Zealand— North Island— Maori Country. S3 chin, and as bhic as turquoise. This tattoo colour is obtained from a shell-fish, but as Maori girls and boys do not kiss it is of little consequence. We visited a Maori " Antica " shop, which is principally patronised by Maoris who sell and others who buy. The prices seem exorbitant : an old rug 80/., and a green stone, about 12 inches long, 250/, We saw one which two daughters claimed ; and as it was impossible to satisfy Maori Mf.n and Womkn. both, they had it cut down the centre at a considerable cost. The keeper of the shop is Mr. D , from Sheffield, who related some strange tales about these people. We bought some fruit — peaches and nectarines at ^d. per pound for our journc)- to-morrow. hibniary 2nd, Tuesday. — W'c were up at 5 o'clock and walked to the station — the train starting at 6.30— for cabs are unreliable so earl)'. The train wound its way through mountains and over some desperate-looking places, which. !)■ W\ '■:m !s k'sm }ii ,' ! \» u ,.1 ■ill : t" III'). 84 .Vi"i>.' Zealand— Noli It hlaiid —Maori Country. were nothing to our now tutored nerves. About 7.30 \vc retired to the feeding car and had a good soh'd breakfast of mutton chops, lea, and marmalade. Our way for many miles was through thi- bush, some being cleared, .some partly .so, and some remained in its pristine beauty. All the stations bore Maori names ; on the i)latforms were Maoris of all sizes, from men 6 feet in height to babies 1 5 inches, and Maori women selling fruit which they do not grow. Many of them were hideous- looking, with their naturally ugly faces and tattoo.s. Most of the women were as fat as pigs, with greater diameter than height, and mouths looking powerful enough to worry anything, even each other, which they did .some years ago, when white folk could not be found. Not knowing the use of salt, when a victim turned up he or .she had to be consumed, so nature provided a great capacity. This is continued, for they won't now use a grain of salt, not even the cum grauo salts. A family thinks nothing of eating a .sheep in one day, and not much cooked, either. Mr. D asked an old man if he knew anything about a man named Flinto'^ He replied, " I did a little, for 1 ate him." These strange people don't like work, but many .ire fond of whiskey and tobacco, and will .soon improve thcm.selvcs off the face of this fine country,— and the sooner the better. A journey through the bush is not exhilarating. Some- times you see miles of dead trees, brought about by cutting a ring in the bark ; in other places immense fires smoke like a battle-field, while in others the trees have been blown down, and are lying in the greatest confusion, with here and there a bush house, in which bushmcn and their families live, many of them sons of English gentlemen. I A^iu Zealand— Xortli hlaud — Maori Coiiii/rv. S^ At a station in these districts a most elegant young married woman, with a little boy, got into the train. She must have been an inhabitant of one of these log houses, for there were no others. Her costume was of the latest fashion, being c[uite up to Rotten Row, with a smart bonnet covering a Grecian blonde face, primrose kid gloves, and a white parasol. She got out at the market town of Palmerston North, with a long list for purchases, and had a return ticket. We passed through the Manawattu gorge, where is splendid river scenery, and a tribute to engineering skill, isirther on our journey we came into more fertile and cultivated country, with large sheep stations, good horses, and everj'thing pointing to prosperity. We arrived at Napier soon after 6 o'clock, feeling rather tired with our 200 miles' journey, but quite ready for a good dinner at the Masonic Hotel. February ^rd, Wednesday. — After a good night's rest wc saw a most perfect sunrise at 5 o'clock from our bedroom window. The sun rose out of the sea into a cloudless sky with great colour and striking effect, ^n front of our window was a fine balcony the whole length of the house, 1 1 feet wide, fitted up with chairs and tables, and facing the sea, which has been a great delight during two or three of the hottest hours in the middle of the day. Napier is a most charming place, with splendid shops, warehouses, banks, and other fine buildings, including a very pretty Cathedral built of red brick and stone, from a good design, and one that would do credit to any com- munity. These arc built on a level facing the sea, while the residences, which for the most part are very pretty, with well-kept gardens, stand on the hills and gullies. In the front of the town, and facing the sea, is a fine promenade, H:^ ;•;■!!« 1% V :;yiis::[i:8:^ Ij: I, III'! ij i . ; $ , K: ■I t , i' • ' tvlPi''''' 'i'l''i -'' : fi'f ■' ; !•■ I !■'! ';,' I j^^i H i:. t ■ , I til t''' m ■ ■■■■;: t S6 Arw Zealand— Noiih hland— Maori Country. nearly two miles lout;, built b}' prison labour, which is not yet completed, as the prisoners were at work. Durinj^ the morninj^ we visited a wool sale, which was a most spirited affair, and found some buyers from Brad- ford and Kei;^rhley. About two miles from here is the Spii Hawk's Bay, the shippiii'^ port, with lanjje warehouses and i^ood quays. This is considered the best a;4ricultural district of New Zealand, and seems in all particulars a prosperous place. I'ruit is much grown, and is very cheap— peaches, apricots, nectarines, figs, greengages, and plums, all in perfection. We have spent a most pleasant day, and cannot speak too highly of the Masonic Hotel and its host. February j^t/i, TJtursday. — Rose at 5 o'clock and again saw the sun rise ; had breakfast at 6 o'clock, and started for a long drive on a coach, 54 miles, to Taraweed. It was a light coach with four horses, holding five persons, each restricted to 20 lb. of luggage. The first part of the journey was round the " Spit," and over a bridge 600 yards long, then by the side of Hawk's Bay for 6 miles until we reached a river. Then came a new experience, for our " trac " was up the bed of the river, sometimes in the water, and at others going over large stones and rocks, shaking our insides, until wc felt .something must give way. We cro.ssed and re-crossed 47 times in 10 miles, and had the water frequently up to the bottom of the coach. The sides of the river arc high banks, with, in inciny places, beautiful weeping willow trees, and in others high rocks. The mountains seem to overhang the river, forming a clo.se gorge. At the head of the river the " trac " was up the face of a mountain to a saddle 2,900 feet in height. It wa.> a hard pull up, but from the top there was a splendid view. Although wc had travelled 30 miles, Napier and Hawk's % ' >j I jVriJ /ca/and — North Island — Maori Country, '^'j Biiy could be seen, as it were, at our feet, and over the plains for lon^ distances. Dcsccndin;4we came upon a lake, and a flock of 4,000 sheep being moved to another run by four men on horseback and twelve dogs, who had them in cb.-irge. It was a most interesting sight. W'c continued in the wildest mountain scenery all day, with the exception of twenty minules {ox lunch at a solitary house. W'c overtook a cavalcade of horses laden with sacks of corn, in the charge of Maori men, with their brown faces and gay clothes. It suggested Jo.seph and his brethren, who, of course, were brown. A little farther on we saw some of the ladies on horseback with their gaudy cloaks ; one had a child in front. They did ncjt use side- saddles, becau.se these ladies ride after the same fashion as men. After climbing two more saddles nearly as high as the first, and descending into the valleys, we reached Taraweed, a decent sort of stopping place in a most picturesque situation, but without any luxuries. February ^tlt, Friday. — Soon after 5 o'clock we were astir, and rain was just " blowing up," as the people say in the mountains. At 7 o'clock the coach started without other passengers, scj we had the pleasure of a private con- \eyance ; the sun had broken out, and everything looked charming and felt fresh. The first ten miles were through the mountains — some- times crossing high passes, and at others through deep valleys full of ferns and quick-running rivers. After crossing the last pa.ss, we descended to a plain, on the opposite side of which we expected to find Lake Taupo. It was an arid and tlesolate-looking country, composed of grey sand and pumice stone, with very little traces of vegetation, only patches of Minuka tree, which is regarded as a weed. -7 i->r 1 5^^>^*i! M :i ti i.j ' ■■■■ ^1;'.^ u i I ): i''t ■■'* • ' !'ili 1 1 1 > 1 ; 8S Nav Zealand — North hland— Maori Country, The pr()sj)cct of thirty miles of this did not seem invitin;^, but had to be <^ot over ; fortunately there was not any dust. With one exception, we saw neither man, house, nor animal of any kind ; the only livint; thing being an occasional bird. The exception was when about half-way across we came to a river and a station for changing horses and taking in a little lunch. Here were a few animals, both human and otherwise. Having a few minutes to spare, we adjourned to the river, into which a .stone was thrown, giving us the first Antipodean experience. It is said cherry stones grow on the outside of the fruit, etc., in this country ; and in England we say " sink " like a stone. I lere this did not happen, for the stone came to the top and floated away. \Vc tried some very large ones with the same result, and then had stone races in the stream. Needless to .say this -s pumice stone. AnrJicr 15 miles of mo.st interesting driving brought us to the hills again, and after a sharp ascent we obtained a good view of Lake Taupo. Another hour of up and down hill landed us at the Terrace Hotel, from which we had a splendid view of Lake Taupo, 15 miles wide and 24 long. On the opposite shore are two active volcanoes, Tongariro and Xijawrihoe. This hotel is built with two fronts. At the one farthest from the lake there is a gorge about 100 feet deep, from which arises steam. A footpath soon introduces you to the first of the many wonders to be seen in this neighbour- hood. On reaching the bottom we saw some terraces of all colours — pink, green, red, and white, from which boiling hot water was running, having been emitted from thirty different orifices ; the flow is continuous, and a large volume of steam is given off. Two baths about 15 feet square have been erected, and the water allowed to \ ling lirty iruc jVi'7u /i'alaud — lYoH/f Island^ i\[aori Country. S9 Idol. W'c were not long in •'ivailing ourselves of these hot baths for refreshment before dinner. The sunset over the lake was \ery effective, and later the tTioonlight gave another picture, making us feel, like Mr, Middlcwick's son, that all had been turned on for us lo-da}'. I'cbniary Ct/i, Sntiirdtry. — Rose early, and with the rest of the household considered the question of baths, as some difficulty was experienced when a do/en people wanted to have a bath at one time. After breakfast we went to see a Maori pah, or village, by the side of the lake. All the wharrys, that is hou.ses, stood on legs about 6 feet high ; some already in the water, and canoes for use when required. A walk of 2 miles brought us to the town.ship of Taupo, with its hotel, l)()st-office, and store. We saw three young Maori girls on horseback, — oi course without side-saddles, — and met them afterwards in the post-office, when the>' had fastened their gaudy skirts round the neck, and exhibited some good understandings with shoes and stockings. We learnt that all single women ride cr^ horseback astride, but when married they arc expected to use side-saddles, and that they frequently inarry very young ; also that a man ma>' have several wives if he can keep them. After lunch wc took a carriage and visited the place where the river Waikato leaves the lake, and, following its banks, came to the rapids, where the river rushes between confined rocks, and then falls about 50 feet. It reminded us of Lerfoss in Norway. The river is particularly grand, there being fine views from an elevated road of the Huka falls. About 3 miles farther brought us to Wairakei, which is renowned for its hot springs, geysers, mud holes, blue '% :!.: ;f:ir ■:1\ 1 'Wi^ i I nil i 'f '- til ..I (:! ' ' : 1 ■ ,i ■ ■ t A (■ . If . '. • ! ■■:■ ■ i ' 90 yVV7J /.calaud —Norl/i /s/and— Maori Country. lake, etc. It is a place with oine trees and ^rass, and the hotel is a one-story Maori w harry," now divided by reeds into four rooms, and a dinini;-rooin in the centre ; the roof and sides are constructed of flax, which makes it look like a haystack with windows. There are some other buildini^s, one containin;^ a drawing-room and nine bedrooms. On arrival all were invited to take a hot bath, which is in the t^arden,— the lailies went there ; and we had a hot natural waterfall bath, -quite a new .sensation to stand under a waterfall f)f real hot water cominjjj down a small river. Durinf; the evening we went out to witness the transit oi Jupiter and Venus. A \'ankce said it was 1,600 years since the performance took place, and he calculated we won't see it again in a hurry. February yt/i, Simdaj'. — Being some miles away from a church or chapel, and si.\ from the nearest house, there vva.s left to us the admiration of nature and God's wonderful works only, (jn one of the finest possible days, with a cloudless sky. The proceedings commenced with baths, breakfast at 8.30, and at 9 o'clock wo went to the top of a hill lo .sec a volcano in active operation ; then we walked through a valley to .see the " Great Champagne Caldron," a turbulent and active geyser in a constant state of ebullition. Presenting the appearance of new champagne, it gave off A r,EYSEI<. '';'• ion. off AV(V Zealand — North Island — Maori Coiiii/ry. 91 a rich boiuiuct of sulphurous steam, frciiuciitly so hot that uc had to retire. The brand was " Satanic " ! Near this j)lacc is a mud <^eyser where, eighteen months a^o, a Maori horse with two packs of Hour and a hw^ of su^ar on its i)ack was walkin;^, when the ;^round ijave way and all disappeared. /*•"• next siijhts were the j^reat Wairakei in eruption every seven minutes, rising to a height of 50 feet ; the Donke)' ICnLjine, a steam hole, makini^ a noise like an rii;4ine ; the ]'\'iiries' liaths, three hot [mjoIs of deh'cate tints, all different thouj^h quite close tof:jether ; the Cas- cade Geyser, or drat;on's mouth, so called from its fonnation (if pink scinto, its boilini^ waters flcnvint; over pink en- crusted rocks, forininiT cascades ; the Lightnin-^ pool has the appearance of flashes of lightning; in rajjid succession coming up through the boiling water ; the Black Geyser, so called from the scinto formation of manganese mineral deposit ; mud gey.sers of various tints and delicate hues ; the l^lue Lake, the only coloured boiling lake said to exist, resembling that on the White Terrace of Rotomana, now extinct ; the Oil liath, or INIuddy Pool, with an oily substance floating on its surface ; the h'agles' Nest, an active gey.ser playing up through petrified sticks ; the Devil's Punch Bowl ; the Boilers ; the Prince of Wales' Feathers ; the Mirror ; the Twin Geysers, two beautiful L^^cysers playing alternately every five or six minutes, the water flowing over a unique specimen of terrace formation ; the Coral Geyser, a deep red formation ; the Green Pool ; the Terekerekc Geyser, a turbulent active geyser with much steam. All these geysers are boiling, and emit a large volume of steam which can be .seen for miles, and smelt also. They are far too hot to approach closcl}'. Words fail to describe •f i ii ■'■ ^■•■■• •♦ l^^^ ''. '- i m4 ^ i If 1.' >;: ' *! • 1 «>! ' " ■A .i!!.;. ^ 92 jVi-7U Zealand — North Is/and — Maori Country. these si>^hts, so awfully grand and awe-inspirinij; the mind cannot help thinlcing what may happen an>' day. Last nii;ht we heard there was a slit^ht earthquake, but our slumbers were undisturbed. We returned to our wharry about i o'clock, and had a fjood dinner, after rest- ing till 4, when it became cooler ; and, having partaken of afternoon tea, which much refreshed us, we started for the mg A Maori Pah, ok Vii.i.Acii:. Great Blowhole, or Devil's Trumpet, 3 tnilcs west from here. It has been calculated that the emission of steam is at a pressure of 180 lb, to the square inch, through an aperture of 12 inches, and is the safety valve of this district. We threw in stones and sticks, which were immediately sent up into the air ; also a parasol, which rose up like a bell loon. February '6th, Monday. — Rose early, had another waterfall Xi70 Zealand — North Island — Maori Connlry. 93 'I . from steam gh an istrict. liately like ;i itcrfall bath, and prepared for startini; at 8 o'clock for a coach ride of 54 miles. What we saw yesterday has much impressed us, and ■^ivcn a t;ood idea of what a volcanic countr)- means in the Southern Hemisphere. All this emission of boiling water forms a river which runs into the Green hot lakes, and then, after coolinir ^i little, forms another river running into the W'aikato, and finds its way to the sea. A gentleman on the coach, who had come from near the eruption in Dong, told us that the earthquake was rather severe, and the outburst was large, sending sand and pumice-stone over 20 miles. We left Wairakei with some regret, having been com- fortable and very much interested. Our drive was through a desolate, mountainous country, without houses or cattle fi)r many miles, until we came upon a Maori pah, where the prophet lives. We saw his wife, a tall, stout old woman, dressed in white, but with such a face ! On the hill opposite is the Maori cemcterj'. with graves railed round, painted white. About half-way was the station, for changing horses and taking in refreshment on the banks of the Waikato. Contiiuu'ng a rather uninterest- ing ride without passing a soul or an animal, we arrived at this place Rotorua abe it 5.30, and found a most comfort- able home in the Lake Hotel. A natural h.ot bath and dinner were most acceptable. This is a Maori village on the shores of Lake Rotorua. and is known here as Oliinemutu. It is a most picturescpie l)lace, but its surroundings do not commend to your mind so close a proximity to the (infernal) interna! arrangeinents. All over the village arc active geysers from which steam and boiling water issue. Anywhere you can establish your own geyser by working with a stick for five minutes. *%3 ■M\ \M-\ , H'V ;^i*;:i^l£l ^■r^. ' r . J,.,. ^ '■|;i:il. Mm ■ >:i . Ifi'I 94 A'^fTC Zealand — N'ori/i Island — Maoi'i Country. A lady and t:jcnt'.cman recounted to us the effects of the earthquake, which destroyed the terraces on the other side of the lake, and killed Mr. BainbridLje, of Newcastle, as well as doing many other dreadful things, working up the imagi- nation and nervous system to a high tension, when a storm miyf Ohineml'tl' AM) Lake Rotorla, of lightning, thunder, rain, and wind broke over us : a real one that made all shake, and brought a fit of terror upon us, because the great eruptions always commence with thunderstorms. Fatigue, howeve •, sent us to bed, with the expectation of being, like a Cockle's pill, swallowed before morning. ■'Mil' ■I AVk' Zealand — North Island — Maori Country. 95 1-."* '% real the :forc February (jtti, Tuesday. — Not much sleep durinijj the ni;jjht, for the noise and rain, but wc were still on the upper crust. About 9 o'clock the rain cleared off, and we started to investit^ate the place. It appears this is all Maori propert}', the population for the most part being Maori, with hou.ses planted in or near L;Lysers, which are used by the occupants for cookini; ; and in winter, instead of sitting by the fire, a mud-hole is resorted to. It seems quite comical the way in which the people sit with only their heads out of the ground. Hy the side of the lake we met some girls ; one said she spoke English, and entertained us. Their costumes were rather gay, one having a pink Garibaldi. The question was asked them whether there were any fish in the lake. The reply was, " Yes, gold-fish ; me get one." Without aii\- ceremony the English-speaking damsel quickly de- nuded herself of her clothes, and jumped into the lake ; the venture was, however, unsuccessful, as far as the fish went, but threepence rewarded her efforts. We saw several groups of men and women playing at pitch-and-toss for money. All were smoking either pipes or cigarettes. This is a common occupation, as work is not part of their calling. We were amused to see a woman boiling her kettle in a geyser, and cooking potatoes in a hole in the ground, where also the bread is baked, if such a name can be given to the compound. On a peninsula going out into the lake is a rather pretty wooden church, and behind it is a cemeterx', now closed on ■tccount of the fevers which arose, for the dead were laid just under the surface ; some had steam blowholes through the graves. There are headstones railed round, and the steam blowing out produces a curious effect. i^ii' rlfr' f. f |i: ■'' 96 yV<-7y Zealand — \'oi'th hlaud — Maori Country ■ 1 ' ■1 \ .1 1 .'■ ■ .4 1 ^^^i.^ i, ^i^:''!' ^ L' :" ■ •k til i ^larriat^c is, it appears, a simple process here, little more than providing for the wife, who maybe 12 or 13 years old; but to ;4et a divorce is more difficult, for the whole tribe has to pay a fine to the nearest tribe, and the offending husband or wife is expected to contribute a substantial part of it. To-day we drove to Tikitere, on the opposite side (jf the lake, to see some wonderful boiling alum springs and a hot waterfall ; also some mud geysers, one specially active Then we ascended a hill where there is a fine view of two lakes — one cold, blue, and the other hot, green. Returning we called at a burying-place in the wild scrub, which consists of sweet-briar, rose trees, and ferns, to .sec the resting-place of .come who were killed in the eruption of 1S86. There is an obelisk erected to the memory of Edwin Bainbridge, of Xewcastle-on-Tyne, who was killed. The landlord of the hotel — "The Lake" — was clo.se to him at the awful moment when the house fell, and Jo.scph ]McRae lost his house and property worth i^6,ooo, but had his life spared. In his present house he runs the risk of another earthquake, being surrounded by hot springs. Although the scenery from his house is so lovely, there is a strong smell of the infernal regions, in the shape of sulphur, pervading the whole district. February loth, Wednesday. — An early bath, and a start soon after 7 o'clock, with a carriage and a pair of willing horses, on a fine morning, is not depressing ; but a ride through a mountainous country devoid of vegetation and life becomes tiring after 20 miles. About 1 1 o'clock we arrived at Waiotapu, and were met by the Maori pro- prietor, who showed us boiling pools, mud pools, volcanoes, green, blue, and many-coloured lakes. Near here is a long rift with earth about loo feet deep ilu l)(„ ! start illing ritk and :k we pro- anocs, ; deep iVau Zealand — North Island -Maori Coituhy. 97 ,md 200 or 300 wide, with pure white ahiin cUffs aiul incipient terraces. One is now bcconiinLj considerable, 111(1 '^ives some idea of the formation of the celebrated white iuid pink terraces destroyed in I.SS6. There are aUo ;"ine si)ecimens of sulphur crystallisations of varicnis colours. This place also suffered at the time of the lSt^6 erui)tions. 1 1 is sad to see the effect (if such destruction. (^ur i^uidc tjave us -(>me account of the iwful ni;,;"ht of 1SH6. I le and his brother and >islers were in the house- when the eruption com- nicnced, and in their fear ran away. One of the sisters crossed upon unsafe t^round, and fell lhroUL;"h ; three weeks lifter wards the brother tovniil her head above ihe ground, but her b(>dy had t;one. He :N(i lost two or three . hildren. This guide, his brother, and sister are splendiil- !()( iking people, about 6 feet in height. After hearing these sad accounts, and .seeing so many W( inders, we lunched in the guide's house, a most picturesquc- 1<)( iking structure, and then started to visit the place where '.he terraces were supposed to have stood. With our nerves ell strung up we proceeded on the way, passing blowholes, ■ Hell's Gate," and all .sorts of awful-looking places, when ^ A Maori Ciiikt. .1 \\\ plr id flash of lightning and a clap of thunder suggested ■ '. \\ -■■■■ . :?» - ^M 'e, ■ ^^ H -• -i^ "1 f-s ■''1 ;:i ■ ■ 5( J: f»ii ■ :~ I" ■ t', '-■' ^UM :m.'! 1:! ':■ til, I). :fii.:;: i:;' I: ■•.ft 98 iVvic Zealand — North Island — Maori Country. somcthint;' honibK-, su we dctrrmir.cd to return to Ohinc- imitu. Tlie (lisccjir.fort ot wet clotl^-s (.lurini^ a four hours' ritle (luite restored the nerves and pr .-pared us for the " cure .ill " (jf this place — a native hot bath and dry clothes. The inhabitants of Ohinemutu are fond of amusements. A ball was announced for the exeninij, to which we went ; but on arrixal found it to be a roller-skate carnival, f illowed a week aflerwartls by a ball. These functions are lield in a spacious wooden buildiuL;" with an excellent lloor. There was a Ljatherin;4 of all the Maori x'outh and beauty, dre.s.sed in the loudest colours, Most of the L;irU were .smokini^ ciL;"arettes, for pipes on their festive occasions are not permitted. Every ;j,irl and boy had skates on ; man\- were cjuite proficient in the art. W'c were in\ited to join in the sport, but beini^ the only whites present, mode-ty, combined with a little consideration for at;"c, prevented our acccptint^ the offer. The sit^ht was novel in the extreme, to .see such brown faces and gaudy costumes ; however, the greatest decorum prevailed, as the master of the ceremonies did his duty. We were specialh' favoured with moonlight. The mocMi rose on the opposite side of the lake, and shone brighth' on the still waters. Febritary i \tli, /"/////-j-^/rn'. -After breakfast we visited the (Government Sanatorium, established for the administration of the thermal waters of this district. The building is ver\- pretty and most convenient, and can provide for twent}'-one patients. Dr. Ginders was not at home ; but the inatron, Miss Birch, showed us all o\er the place. The ground- cover a good man)' acres, an<.l contain natural springs ot hot waters of various kinds as well as geysers and mud- holes. In former times the invalid pitched his tent, an! 'hi! . 'iti I mc, the inics tin very •-(ine )un(l' mud Xau /calami — Xoii/i Island — Maori Country. 99 found i>ul tlu- most suit:iblc spriiiL;' f(jr his particul.u" coin- piaiut. Ihe nanus of the principal Jjalhs ar^' taken IVcji'm ihr sc pinnctrs -for instance, the Cameron's Hath, MclluLjh U '.ihs, Mackenzie's liath, and the i'rii-:.'s IJath ; which icniii 1 "lie of the fact that when l nristopher C'oluinbu^ discovered America he found a Scotchman there. The Sanatorium ]5aths are si)lendidl\- arranL;"ctl into a series of lar;4e swimmiiv^' baths and smaller pri\-ate ones. as the (piantit)' of boilin;.;' water is unlimited, and has to he e.\po^ed for coolini^. There is also a natural sulphui- \- pi an' bath, which is over a sulphur blowhole, in tlu kirin of a box with the lid off; inside it is thickh- coiled with sulphu;- deposited by the \-apour. In a separate huildiii'j; is a bath which, attracts patronage Ivachel's l!,ith, or " Heautiful for e\-er." In the de-ciiption we liiui the to lowing : " Ihe delicious sense of the hiai vtic ])n)duced by bathing in this water, with the soft satin\' terling it communicates to the skin, must be felt to be appreciated." It renui\es freckles, wrin]uit him. Ill the afternoon we went to Whakarewarema nvcr — such a nice name ! —to see some wonderful gex'sers sending uj) Ijniling water 50 feet, and a white terrace with blowholes, etc. The river is a mountain sticam flowing quickly over recks, ;uid at a point runs into a considerable jjooI, which 'i'* W, :i'-?i|i'Sli ] yi'-^l .^yi*-^"-' Mm U V'':'l» m: ii;:'i ■ I m ■■•.1' ijlv §:!■• I" 100 A'^i'iy Zealand— Noiili Island — Maori Couii/ry would not attract attention but from the fact tliat e\ery fifteen minutes there is a blow up of about a ton of black earth from the bottom to lo feet above the surface, which in two minutes is repeated, and then rests a quarter of an hour. 'I'his show place is the propert)' of the iNIaoris, whc live in considerable numbers on the i^round. W'c saw tluni boiliiiL;- potatoes in aLjeyser and cookiiiL;" meat in a blowlioK A M.\(IUI WllAUKY l)K llofsi:. 1:1 : 1,11 Our y;uidc was a swell younii" married woman with gaudy clothes, bare feet, and elaborate tattoos. She spoke a little English. Bullock-waggons are much used in these districts ; wt' saw one with splendid bullocks. It was a fine sight. Tin: animals .seemed quite docile, and did not object to the work. The driver rode on horseback, and directed the bullocks with a long whip. At night they arc turniLl loose, and the driver sleejjs under the waggon. \V' hills, with an outlet to the sea, protected by Harrier Island standiii'^ across the entrance. There are man\- haiui-^oine villi residences, with stately trees and shrubs adorning the hanks : this, with the blue water, j^ivcs the idea of a fancy picture. Turin'n^ to the west is the harbour of Onehun^a, spreading over a larj^e c.xiJanse, with some of its arms nearly joiniii!^ those of Auckland. One day, no doubt, the work of unitin;^ them will be accomplished, when money is more plentiful, because it will effect .'i .savini; o( loo miles to .Sydney, and 200 to west-coast ports. Both on the north and on the south are plains with mountains in the back L,n-ouncl. We were delij^htcd with this natural panorama, and were loth to leave it. One conspicuous object in the land- scape was the hospital, a very lar<;e buildini^ upon the knoll of a hill. l^^or the most part people do not live in the city proper, hut in villas in the suburbs. Many of these villas are in creeks runninf:^ from the harbour, with very beautiful i;ardens, where all kinds of fruit and tropical plants and shrubs seem to flourish : in fact, the place is a paradise. Fi'hrnaiy \6t/i, Tuesday. — We started early for Lake fakapima in a steamer, crossing the harbour to the village of Devonport, where is the signal station for ships, then went in a coach 5 miles to the lake, passing inany pretty places and seeing views. The lake is circular with high banks covered with trees and shrubs, being about a mile V. . I-«S1 ■^^ Ml Mi •:'■ 'A m 104 Nc7iJ Zealand — North Inland — Maori Count ry . : * \A '1^ 11.. :•! ■S !S. ;ii! ( l^'if 1*11 (liatnctcr. and i'^ an extinct crater. Tlun- arc a fine hotil and many i)rctty residences. Alth<)U;j;h onlj' about 100 yards from the sea, the water is fnsli. and thoui'.h at a lowi'r le\il. has a hi'^lu r teinjierature, (hie. no douhl, to volcanic inlliK'nces. Ilavin;^ packed up our hai;;^a<^e and dined, we went to the ste.anier to sail for Sydne\', 1,200 miles, reL;rettinj^f very much leaving New /ealanil, where we had s(j much pleasure. The head waiter at the Grand Hotel, hearin;^ us speakini; of Scarboroui^h, asked permission to make a few incjuiries, as he was bnniL^lU up at llutton Huscel, and knew many persons in Scarborough and the district, lie was dclii^htcd to hear of people he knew, but w as afraid, after an absence of thirty ears, few would remember him. The steamer \Vairarapa,\\\\\\ the number of people on board, was like a penny show at a fair, and became quite ovcrpowerin[4, as the visitors were not run^ off till 10 o'clock — an hour late. The sky was cloudless with a full moon ; the spectacle was very pretty. ■ There bcins^j so many pas- sengers and nf) opposition to the Union Steam Company, the tnanagers d(j as they please. I'our were packed in a small cabin intended for two, and hot as an oven. Thi. we did not like, but there beintjj no alternative, matters were soon settled ; for all the cabin iihips. l?oth the ships and the monopoly are overcrowded ; yet, stranL;e to say, the New Zealanders are proud of this line, which they consitler the finest in the world. The , -eather was most cliarmini:^ ; but the sea, with a rather heavy t!,round swell, was disturbinij in its effects upon the "innards" of those not etlucated, retluciuL; considerably the number of promenailers. We ha\e been saUini; along the coast of the North Island all day. and passed the town of Russi^ll, tlu' last on the North, also the North Cape with its lighthouses, and now have lc:ft behind a cluster of thirteen islands, called the "Three Kings" — the last we shall see of New Zealand, a country to be remembered with much pleasure. .Several -harks have been visible during the tla}-, looking out, it is -upposec 1. f( or anv one droppi ng overboarc C) ne caliec nth .some .sympathy, poor thing, being, like Ciesar, deatl 107 ■' I. 1: WU ! I- ' .: t Wi\ .':l-l f ' ■«t". 1' iif *' ' • loS New Sou/// IVa/i's. ■,l.,f, t: ■ ■: • '' il!:)'^ It hatl died or been killed, and, like Shakespeare's beetle, would realise whether "the sense of death is most in apprehension." Xoboch' seemed afraid, though within a few \-ards of this monster of the deep! February iS///, I'liiirsday. — \\"c are <4ettinL;' used to our hot eabins, taking' to them as a cucumber to a frame. It is a splendid day, w ith a swell on the sea. XothinLi," of interest occurred, except the sight of passing" a vessel under full sail. February X'-jtIi, l-'riday. — " A life on the ocean wave, A home on tlie rolHnt,' deep. ^\'hel•e tlie scaltcied waters rave. And the winds their revels keep." This is quite in accordance with the present (Pacific ocean. On board is the Rexerend Canon C" . who has raised the ire of many of the passengers, in conscciuence ot the time he occupies the bath — three-quarters of an hour! — keeping every one waiting. We told him that if hi> sermons were as long as his bath, his congregation intleed deserved pity. We don't know how he stood the amount of chaff received this morning. To-mcjrrow it ma}- get beyond a joke, for he is in danger of being dubbed a K.C.H. by being kept there. In our cabin of four we have a Frenchman who cannot speak a word of luiglish. J^oor man ! the situation docs not .suit his tastes. He reminds us of an old French friend, with his antics, and bothered us much with his impedimenta, having sundry bags and flimsy packages : one a green bag containing about a dozen new shirts, which seems a white elephant to him. It occupies a place in his berth, and when he gets in, it is a question where to st(jw it ; sometimes In places it at his feet, sometimes at his back, and so on. Then he has a brown-holland bag hanging on a hook, .swinging Nczu South Wales. 109 ■vith the ship, which, in the dark, look '. like some one moviiiL; .iboiit, tempting one to call out, " \\ ho's there?" It was wicked, but we were tempted to examine the contents of this torinentor, fuulinL;" what we kast exi)ccted — six grand ihapcanx. What a brain it must be to re([uirc six such coverings — a large green helmet, a pith hat with a brim wide enough to cover a whole family, a Panama straw, a IlU, an opera, a regular " gibus," and another. Perhaps he has escaped from New Caledonia, as many do, and come this wa\-. About 5.30 in the morning, seeing some one nass (for the door is obliged to be left open), he called out, " (iarcon, cup ta " ; to which the repK' was, " Xo tea until half-past six." Of course that was not understood. Shortly after the demand was repeated, with the same answer ; so we explained. At the appointcii time the " cup ta " arrived, uul was duly handed in to tl ittom berth, and found too hot ; in a few minutes he bolted out of the berth, for the "cup ta " had upset, making his cjuarters too warm, even fur a h'renchman, whose exclamations, etc., we fail to record. This afternoon the ship had a fiirl\- good roll, just the kind to reduce the profits, in the wa\' of broken plates, glasses, etc. From the writing-table a large-sized ink bottle migrated to a .scat, discharging its contents thereon. Presently a nice young man sat on it, but nothing" happened to him beyond the trademark of the licjuid. February 20///, Saturday -A dead calm with a cloudless Nk\-, and very hot. Turned out earl\- to a\'oid the fate of dissolving into a grease spot. The learned canon did not patronise the baths this morning, being afraid of his installation as K.C.H. Nothing "f interest transpired during the day. February 2i.s7, Sunday. — We arrived in .S)-dne)' at 6 n •til ii'l M , ■i«.v* '^H m t»r'l-' mi •'*■(! iiViil /v-;,;: .■ I' il ■ ■ -I K '■ if • • " i n if . ■ 4 '■Ii(' I lO jVczv Sonlh JVaics. mm M. o'clock, and left the ship after breakfast for the Ifcitel Metropole, w here we found ver}- comfortable quarters, hut were unable to sjjct our lut;i,ML;e, it bcinij Sundax'. We spent the morning in the H(jtanical (iardcns. In the after- noon we went by train to Cogee, nearly an hours ride through the National Park and suburbs. It is a very pretty place ; a ba\-, with high cliffs ; and there is a fine aquarium. After tea wc went to St. Philip's Church, licaring a good .sermon from the Rev. — Langlcy, delivered with great vigour to a large congregation. Sydne\' I larbour is one of the wonders of .he woild, and must have been a great freak of nature — volcanic, no doubt — in cmpt\'ing such a large area. It is like an octopus, its man\' arms stretching for miles inland, and of great depth, even close to the shores, where large ships can be moored. These shores are for the most part hilly ; some clad with beautiful trees and foliage, while others are stern, hard rocks. On these shores the city is built, and on the hills beautiful villas, with subtroi)ical trees, .shrubs, and llowers, all denoting great wealth and luxury. In a general aspect it far exceeds any city wc hav^e ever seen, and impresses the mind as a fancy picture. In the cit}' proper there are fine stone buildings, amongst others the Cathedral, (jovernment offices, and Land and Post offices. To the latter is attached a high tower, from which signals are exhibited when letters from mails arrive, in the day by flags, and at night by electric lights in various forms. The tower has a large illuminated clock, without the usual figures, and can be seen from most parts of the cit\-, on account of the clearness of its faces. It chimes on splendid bells, cast by Taylor of Loughb(jrough, and is the niost imposing post-office in Her Majesty's colonies. .Sp (Ic Ian b.s 3'/. are fr( )■/. thci ■ UK \| pf'HW'tp' n^* ami VcMii rive. s \u Icick, pails h i)U'j;h, jVc2V Soit//i ITa/i's. 1 1 I The streets arc not like Melbourne, but much after the irregular style of London. Geori^e Street, Kint; Street, ritt .Street, etc., are fashionable ones for shoppin;^, havin,4 colours. The fruit shops secured our frec^U' 't patronage, because with splendid fresh i;rapes at 2i/. and y/. per lb., ;4ood weit^ht, peaches as huL^e as the l)iL!,;4"est oranijes h/.y \ K ]^ ■l;i 1,.-', aricnioon tea of fine navniir, witli delicious cakes, hot and Aell JDUttercd. 'Die (///('patronise him in crowds. OfcMursf we went more tlian once. Tliis Chinaman has made and is makin^L;' lots of money, and out of his abundance tloes niaii\' charitable works, not only to his own countr\'men, but also to the heathen Saxon. There are many Chinese shops of all kinds, and many Chinese followin;,^ \-arious occupations ; the\' are for the most part peaceable citizens. We saw, however, a threat fi_i,fht amoni; thein conse- quent on a decision in the police-court. Bamboo canes were freely u.sed, and with much sjjilling of blood, the noise was like a reijiment of tom-cats. The police soon restored order. The Town I fall is a splendid stone building;, with a Centennial Mall, seating;' 6,000 persons. It contains an organ, built b\' Mill & Sons, of London, said to be the largest in the world. The- organist, M. Auguste W'icgland, of Brussels, receives a salary of i,"6oo a )'car. We went to a rccitid, and were much gratified. The Vox Ilumanastop was usetl with marvellous effect in the Sicilian I I)-mn. The air sounded like voices in the distance accompanied b\' a full band. On Sunday the service at the Cathedral was feeble, with the exception of a good, sensible sermon from the Dean, \\T,o is upwards of eighty years of age. One day we visited the Arts Gallery, which includes a good collection of I'"nglish masters both in oil and water-colours. I'oreign artists, however, were not well represented. We recogni.scd many Academy pictures, and one good cattle piece by E. I largitt. Our colonial friends are evidenth' good customers of R.A.'s and A.R.A.'s. I^ut they leave outsiders to earn a name. The Museum is a large building, and contains man\' u(^- :SL' on an top ilh an. ulc^ am and jntls But an\- 8 u r. MU m i' ' '' 'is ^l.■ !i 1 < , 1 i- pp ' '■■ '^ ; ■ ^ ' h' I Wi-' n? ft t m 1 «!:;(.' II '* '•• I T hi I ip,. i'u' 1 •it'''!' ■ (' ■ . m^ : • 111 ' ■ill 'i:-;<. i "fs New Soitt/i JVa/c: I I curiosities. The I'tcc Library is also a handsome structure. Tlie Hospital is \-i.'ry lart;e, and another u'in;^ is about to i)e atlded to it, to which the (iovcrnment has contributed .1^5,000. It struck us on seeinij such j^r.uul ])ublic builil- iuLi's that peopk are more t^enerous here than at home in the old country ; but it appears that the (iovernment pro- sides most of the cost of the buildin;j;s on the undcrstantling that the public maintain them. The Charit}' Organisation Society's work is carried out on ,111 extensive scale ; one-third of the income is ^iven away, till other two-thirds bein;4 spent in necessary expenses ; for all charitable institutions make usi- of the society's information, and, as there are no jioor laws, private sub- scriptions help the many who are now out of work, or they would starve. The depression in trade is said to be the outcome of the late strikes, about a yearaijo. The workmen ;u\; stupid to be so deluded by trade-unionist agitators. Many excursions can be made from Sydney ; and in iirranL;ing a trip two or three weeks should be allowed beyond the time spent in the cily. This we unfortunately (lid niit know, so had to make the best use of our time, .About 50 miles away, and passing;- Botany Ray, of convict renown, after traversing the National Park, containing about 30 miles of land reserved for public use, we came to the colliery districts of Clifton, where thousands of tons of good coals are obtained, and either shipped or sent by rail. He\-oud this is Bulli, beautifully situated on the coast, with .1 view of Sydney Heads. With the aid of a carriage we ascended upwards of i,coo feet through the IkiUi gorge to the l^oddon waterfalls, which are very pretty and curious; tor after the first fall there is a .second into a round basin, without any apparent outlet, and the river is not seen again for five miles. I/' m\ ,4i t / S 1 m »' '« "-i./* ' ;r I.; ■''i ii6 A^rio Soil/// JIa/c's. !'l: Another trip was up the Paramatta river, a coiitiiniatidii of the harbour for about JO miles, throuijjh scener\- much hkc some parts of the C'l)'de, with well-woodetl banks studded with fine residences, havin^^ parks down to thf water, with batliin;jj and boathouses. In some jjlaccs tin river is three miles wide, while in others c|uite narrow. ll Nativks, Ni:\v South Walks. I '.: ■I looking more like a scries of lakes than a river. Landing;, wc secured seats in a tram for the three miles to the town of Paramatta, a pretty place, w ith beautiful gardens, sub- tropical .shrubs and plants, and extensive orangeries. Thi> seems to be the garden of Sydney, for the whole district is laid out in market gardens and fruit orchard.s. Another da)' we went to the north shore in a steamer, then by tram a couple of miles, and afterwards by a coach Ni'20 Sou/// Wn/cs, I I ID miles on hii;h i^roiiiid .ihow tlu- Imibour ; then dcscciulcd to ;i fi IT)', where co.'ich ;iiul horses went over, and on to M,inle\', a beautiful seaside resort hehintl the north head of tl e entrance to the harbour. 'I'here is a L;ap in the cliff, with low land, and (mi the side near the sea is a fine |)romenade called the Stayne. On the other side, ' oint;" ilir harbour, is another j^ap, with extensive baths for ladies and ;4entlemen. The town lies between, nicely planted with trees. This beautiful place and district is iKjt without its draw- hacks ; many find it loo hot, but we did not find the heat oppressive. The moscpiitoes were our buLibear, and .seemed to like a little new blotjd. Curtains to the bed were pro- vided ; but wc. bein<4 greenhorn.s, had to purcha.se our experience by much discoinfort, having" nes^lccted to hunt inside them before cxtinL;uishini;' the liiiht. Four real pro- fessors, old hand.s evidently, had a " 'j^o " at us the first iiiLjht ; conseqiiently for a daj' or two wc looked like escaped small-po.x patients. \Ve leave Sydney with i^rcat rci;"rct, having had a most enjoyable visit, and hcjpe some time to return here for a loHL^er sojourn. Now for preparations for our lon;^ voya^'e lo China on the way home. 'm ■A i\ Ri I ph . i (h ' J in' . 'f f, • • '") 1;. ;, ' ' i" ■>■;"!•■ ail '•■■ v'l ■ K.i'i ]''. IX. FOYAG/i 10 ClffXA. .•■1\1 ^■J '■■If; i ■' '^ *': ■ '■ .1 i.. '-'^ '. n ' i *i ,'■•■ 1 ■■..!; :.V »t ,r.| ''II If '■;' li vj .V;(l ■1 , 1' ''' 1 < I i. ■■■ j' 1 'II I.-. ^iiiffl '"'.I ^' -^' ' ^^vi^i; I. Is \Sf% \ lit' 'J'i*; - ■■ m:\ Jim i\' ■n: •',5': ■ ;i. CHAPTER IX. VOYAGE TO CHINA. i\/t rlRCil .i)i(t \l'a/ncs(i/(ij'. — W'c sailed at 1.15 in the steainsliip Airlic for Hoiil;' Kony". 'Ihc ship is one of tlic Eastern and AustraHan Hne, about 2,000 tons, of the old type, with the cabins in the stern, and lij^hted dimly with oil lamps. The captain (l^llis)and officers are Kni;iish, but the crew arc of several nations, certainly not white men. The stewards are all Chinese, dressed in native costume. The " stewardess " is also a Chinaman, with a pi;4tail, who looks very modest when attending upon the ladies in their c:ibins. Passing out between the Heads, with their splendid light- houses, we found a rough sea, quite upsetting several of the [)asscngers, who had to retire. Our dinner-table was thinly attended, and the good tlinner provided had to go begging, for the " highwa}'s and byeways could not suppl>' guests." March yd^ T/iiirsday. — We ha\e hatl a north-east gale all night with a rough sea, and tlie ship rolling very much, not adding comfort to those already sick. The gale has increased during the day, and big green seas have struck W} ■;::t; m ( ■. V ■ m I* ■i IP 4 Hi lif : ■ !:';., ■'1 it !:^l h 'fiy *v \ ■ ■ , -f Ri( ■ " I *■• i r-.¥ i1 H'^ij 1: I **■'•■ , ' -i ' i iiir||| 1 22 I'oyaor lo Cliiua. the sliip, sending tons of water from end to end. W'c arc runnini;" close in shore, and liave the advantaL^c of sccinti; the country, whicli appears in some places to be well culti- vated ; also we have passed the mouths df sc\eral large rix'crs, where there are towns of coiisitlerable size. Our six Chinese stewards louk strange to us with costumes, bare arms and pigtails ; one has a fine cro[), for when plaited it reaches within 6 inches of the ground. Mixnh ^///, Friday. — Wc had another rough night, with heavy seas continuing until we reached Moreton Bay, about 7 o'clock, when the ship got into smooth water. What an electrical effect a calm has upon the appetites of the people ! The breakfast-table was well attended, and justice done to the very ample provision, when " all went as merr\' as a marriage bell"; then it was like sailing down a lake, w ith land on both sides, but not any signs of population. About I o'clock we anchored in the Brisbane river ; but much to our disappointment were unable to go up to the city, for we had expected a turn on shore. After a time a steam tug came alongside, bringing man)' passengers, chiefly Chinese. One family excited a good deal of attention — China Pa, China Ma, and six piccminnies, one about eight months old, all dressed in Oriental costumes and looking like a royal family. The lady had earrings about the size of half a crown, jade stone and gold, and large pins in her head-dress to match. VVe shall see more of them, but perhaps not the grand costumes. Another Chinaman, of less pretensions, brought his wife and famil\" to see them off. The parting between the father and the youngest child was most affecting. Lunch was delayed nearl)- an hour, waiting patiently for the I'.arl of , who was expected to arrive in a Govern- / '(^'f^;'!' /(' China. '-3 mcnl launch ; but as he did not come we liad our meal, and tlien the arrival took pl.ice. A smart steamer drew in siL,fht, and salutes were made and exchanged. Then it came up aloni^side, i;"i\in<^' us the oi)])ortunit\^ of witnessing the IcavetakinLT between Lord ()- and the (io\ernor of (Jueensland, the Prime Minister, and lots i)f other State dignitaries, who formed a procession on to our ship, even to the Uerby dog. Hut this dog returned, being wiser than one who came on board at Sydney ; for the Sydney dog had either been made into a "Chinaman's pie" or had a long swim, for he disap[-)eared. After more fonnalities thi:se gi'and folk cleared out, and we resumed our \()\-age at 2.45. What an effect a little aristocrac}' has I All the officers wore full dress, the sailors being in white jackets and trousers ; and the decks were washed tw ice and rubbed with white sand, wliicli we beliexe (lid not call forth an\" remar]< h'om tlu' \ isitors. On leaving Moretoii Hay the shij) again resjK)nded to the mil ; and many faces became once more elongated, and the dinner-table was neglected. March -^t/i, Stitz/n/dv. — louring the night the sea settled down, and became (|uite smooth, with a burning sun and cknidless sky, making the sea a/.ure blue and the atmo- si)here very hot, although all tle\ ices possible were used to keep cool -port holes with " wind scoops," " punkas " worked by Chinamen, a.nd awnings set — but the sun shone all the same. I'^ish of all kinds were most abundant, and sea monsters disported themsehes alongside the ship ; p.u-ticularly porpoise, who seemed to enjoy steeple-chases, while dolphin went lazil\- along. About 6 o'clock wc got well within tlie J^arricr Rccf,said to he constructed by " coral insect.'- and extending o\er 1,200 miles o f th e course we were u'omir. 'i\in!j," the assurance m ; -U •. ■','','■ 11,1 ■ I .'■ : . ■'1 1 : 'i\ ^ kf' I m ; \ 124 Voyage to C/iina. h''- •.« 'iff 1:1! of a smootli sea, bcini;- like a lake. After sunset tlie new moon rose in a eloudless sk\^ and the whole was a perfect scene of repose, except the water sent u}) by the steamer's screw, beinLj full of noctiluca, or phosphorescence of the sea. March (i///, Snihiav. — We rose at dayliLjht to find a pic- ture of perfect loveliness, for the sun rose on the North- umberland Islands, — a number of small islands uninhabited, with the exception of one, Perc\' Island, where a .solitary man live:-, per sr, tpiite on the lines of Robinson Crusoe. We passed the Richmond Islands, and should have landed on one of them, but were a day late, and it was Sunday. Sailing close to tlie mainland, the whole scene forcibly reminded us of a sail froin Oban to the Isle of Skye, but with a different atmosphere ; this is called the " Inland sea of (Queensland.'' The do^-watches were most amusins^' on the forecastle, all the Chinese firemen and sailors dining with the steerage passengers. The\' sat in rings of about a dozen, without chairs or stools, but on their haunches. In the centre of the deck was a large tin containing pieces of meat curried ; each man had two chopsticks in his right hand, and a basin of rice in his left ; with the chopsticks he secured a morsel of curr}-, and then some of the rice, repeating the operation until filled. The l^astern men said a prayer with their foreheads on the tleck. then knelt round a bucket of rice, and with chop- sticks in each hand kept up a stream of rice until satisfied ; then said another prayer with their foreheads on the deck. The next performance was either smoking small pipes or cigarettes, and playing at cards. Ihere was a splendid sun.set at 6.10, with much colour, and the night was fine, hot, and calm. t Voyaor to China, 1 .Uii'x// ~(Ii, Monday.' -Wi^ went on deck early, ;uid saw thr sun rise at 5.50. It was a beautiful sij^ht, for wc were just sailing;" into a bay ; at 6 a.m. the anchor was dro])i)e(l opposite the North Queensland ca]Mtal, " Townsville," which has a population of about 13,000. 'I'he town is built at the fool of a roui^h rock\' hill, and has a har- bour enclosed \^\ two bri'akwaters of considerable leiii^th, but with llu' disadvantage of shallow water. .After breakfast about twenty passenL;"ers went ashore in a .steam launch ; we foimd it \'er\- lK)t, moist heal. The tirsl operation wa^ posting" letters ; and then, after looking; round the t(n\ n, and decidiuL;' there w as uolhinL;" to be bouL!,"ht except " Beetle paste " and " KealinL;'s insect powck'r," chartered some carriaijjes ior a drive. The main street, kliiiders Street, is wide, and has i^ood siiops, with two or three public buildiu'^s. Just outsitle the town a river is ci"ossed to a villai;e, where all the houses are on legs from 4 t(.) 6 feet above the L;round, in consequence of Ikjods ; and kulher aloni;' there are some pretty places with most hi.xuriant foliai;"e. At the end of four miles we .arrived at " Acacia Gardens," where bananas and pineap[)les are thrown in fields like tuinip.s. The pines averasj^e 2d. per do/.en, and bananas are about the same price. Custard apples are most de- licious, and lots of other tropical fruits are very abundant. The trees, shrubs, and llowers, also orchids, are in the L^reatest [)erfL'ction, antl man\' ver)- imme e. Some are the same as t;rt)wn in our hottest lu)Uses as small plants, while here they are trees. The proprietor was most kind in t^ixiuL;' us fiuit and llowers, and showed us .some wonderful (Jueensland birds. He also reL;"aled us with s^inger-ale, a most acceptable drink in such a hot place. Mosquitoes of a hu'L^c size were .: Vl. 1 ^^ .|i ■■'■m m \Sn\i ■ ■■, :' i» -, ;' .'^; ■ itii r' t ■■ii :Il 126 Voyaqc lo China, most cncrL^ttic in their attentions lo tlie visitors. W'c suL:,L;;este(l tlie\' should be chained up, but the rejoinder \va>', " \'ou should be here to-niL;lit." At 3 o'clock the launch took us on boartl a;^ain, in time for that bewitching; institution, "afternoon tea." riie sunset was \-ery fine, and tile moon rose, ijivins^ quite another effect to the islands we were sailing;" amoni;st. March 8///, Tuesday. — At 4.45 the anchor was dropped about a mile from " l^^rankland Isle," an uninhabited island just inside the Harrier Reef, covered with tropical trees, cocoa-nut palms, and orchids. Soon after 5 o'clock ten of us left the ship in a boat, four armed with t^uns to shoot pis^cons. It soon becaine evident that the birds were on the look-out, for we saw flocks of hundreds Icavini;' the trees. Landins^" in a small cove, the shooters went in quest of prey, and by the reports must have found plenty of sport. We had a w alk in the thick junt^ie, and started up a wild turkey which went away, ;is we had left our L!;uns in lCn;j;land. Orchids were in profusion, and larf^e tropical flowers hung from the trees ; the shores were one mass of coral and wonderful shells. A good deal of cor.d was collected, but the finest was obtained b\' the *' Malay sailors" diving and breaking it off with a hammer, and was afterwards boiled to kill the c(M-al insects, and to make it white. We returned to the ship at 8 o'clock, and resumed the \oyagc. after four hours of great excitement, with good appetites for breakfast. About I I o'clock we anchored off Cairns, a small town inhabited by fishermen of various nations — Chinese, Malay, and some English. A large c]uantity of bccJie-dc-incy, or trcpang, an im- se; a re( w'x ;f. m Voyage to China. I 27 portant ff^od luxury aiiiony; the Chinese, is cau:4ht and pre]) M'etl liere ; it consists of several species of" echinoderms or sea snails, which freciucnt the coral reefs, an:l is often called sea-cucumber, having; a hotly from 6 to 15 inches lont^f. The preparation is simple, for after bcini:^ caui;ht they are boiled for about twenty minutes, and then split up and inadi' ready for dryiuL^. This is effected by their bein;4 kej^t open with three pieces of stick. We took on board six tons to convex- to China, where the \-alue is about il^ioo per ton. We must say the smell is strong, and not like rose-water ; however, the captain promised some for dinner the -icxt day. Tropical rain is curious in its action. .Se\'eral times we have seen a cloud settle upon an island and drench it with rain, while all around was quite fine and bright. I)urin;4 the at'ternoon we passed a lars^e waterfall, plainly visible in a rant^e of mountains on the mainland, marked on the chart as from 2,000 to 5,000 feet. No doubt there are manv such waterfalls in these high ran\vinL;' in the water on the coral, the roots beini^ projected from the trunk, and branches forminLj, as it were, stilts for tlu tree to stand upon, as the roots do not i;"o into the coral very far, antl would be upset by the wind if it were not for those supports. These laL^oons contain all kinds of fi^li, bcchc-dc-tncr, youu'^ sharks, -^rowin;,;" spoiiL^cs, and many intcrestin;4' objects only to be found in trupical and coral seas. We were surroundetl by lai^cjons and islands as fu- as the eye could see, and the wonder is how a ship can be navigated. We came acioss a fishin;j,-boat on the sh(jre with ciL;'ht men ; only one seemL.'d to be i'Ji;j,iish. the others bein;4'a collection of all nations, INIalay, Chinese, Jai^anese, and nic:ji;ei's. They were collectinj,j pearl shells, sponi;"es, bt'chc-dc-uicr, and anythin*;' else of value; the\' hailed from Albany Pass, and arc in the employ of Air. l-^-ank Jardine. It was (|uite refreshin<4" to hear birds sin'^' ; man\' of tlie finch tribe, and they had a nice soni;". There were several kingfishers hopping about the ship, without any fear of being molested. The captain resolved to remain at anchor until daylight, so after dinner there were various amusements on the ship. Many of the passengers busy cleaning shells and arraniiing other curiosities. Fishing for sharks was to the fore with the heathen Chinese, but it onl}' ended in a few bites and loss of pork. March wth, Friday. — All the .ship was astir at 5 o'clock, \vhen the sail through dozens of small islands was quite exciting, and there were speculations as to which was the way. In two hours we came to Albany Pass, through which the tide runs like a mill race. On the mainland side is the settlement of Mr. ^'rank Jardine, who m VoviiLi'c to C/n'iKi. '3' 'i,ll«! lit has a beautiful house ; but his x-i'-itors must arrive by sea, coiiscquently neijjjhbours cannot trouble him much. He has a fleet of fishiuL^-boats and some cattle, and takes his produce to Thursday Island. On the huid arc immense ant hills, some of them lO and 20 feet hiy;h, lookin;^ like cairns. On the island opposite are the graves (jf missionaries who were murdered b}- the natives. We passed, amoni; many others, Monday Island, Tuesday and Wednesday Islands, and also saw the melancholy sight of a shipwreck. The masts of a large full- rigged shi[) were standing out (jf the sea, while the hull was on a reef ; no lives were lost. Sailing through a narrow strait we came into a large sea lake surrounded by islands, and on one of these is the settlement of Thursday Island, a prosperous place, where the pearl fishing and ccjral people bring their catches for sale, and take away stores. Landing in shore boats we visited all the shops and had great fun. Some of our party met old friends who had just come from New Guinea. We were introduced to Mr. and IMrs. C, the celebrated missionaries, who have lived among the New Guinea savages for twenty }'ears ; they arc most interesting people, and were on their way to England. The population is about 1,050. Six hundred of these arc Malays, Javanese, South Sea Islanders, Singalese, Papuan, and other dark-skinned races, while the Europeans are of various nationalities. The settlement is expected to increase, being the nearest port to New Guinea, and only separated by the Torres Straits. The Singalese always have an eye to business. They brought out of their pockets little parcels of pearls, asking a few shillings for some, and for others ^40 to ^50 ; but we were not tempted. We daresay some people would have purchased their wonderful teeth, \\\-' Xy ^ . 1 I'f^iti ■' "'•■;l ■ ''.' Ill ■ ' ■ Vis '(l ■: fit!) ■if n i 134 rovai^r to Cliuia. with the c.\cc[)ti()n of a strip (if I'urkc)' red, proxidril \^\■ the (jox'enior, who insists on its hc'iiiL;' worn when there is a steamer in the harbour. These people are ([iiile black, and have bows and arrows, spears, and other warlike ini[)le- ment-:. Ihe men are lor ' 'e most i)art tall antl athletic, with black hair, l)lack e\"es, larL;e llat noses, painted x'ellow, IlK is Ori:i \>i \M> Ar.i lun .\\\ . '% W.\ thi-cn wci •ilie Irm Ihr pre rrn / 'oy({i^'(' to China. ori of proprirl}' with their \v;iiit of costunu'^. .Man)' of thiMii s.il u])!)!! tlic ch1l;c of the piei", witli their K'l^s il,uiL;liii_L; (lowii, sinokiiiL;' their pipes, whieh wluii in it in use, ami f(ir the want '>t pockets, were stuck unclcM" " b,uiL;ies " niaile III" [)kiiteil L;rass, worn on the arm just ht'low the shouUler. On an in\itation to (ii:\- these lach'es ch'scarded llie turkey lid and swam round tlie shij). Sixptuces were thrown iiUo the water, for which the)- dived, and sometimes re- mained loni;' under water. " Sharl< " w^is suddeni}' called, and thei'e was a reij;ular stampede to tlie steps of the pier. .Some of the women hail little blacl< hal)ie-;, a few weeks old, and there were t)thcr chiklreii of all aL;es. In the afternoon we visited the Settlement and saw ("io\ernment House antl also the lelenraph .Station, (juite an important place ; for the submarine cable ends here, and there are twelve operators with their fann'lies, who are rclie\'ed e\ery five years. The C"io\-ernor and this little colon)- are the ,///(• of the place. The)- ha\-e a temn's-court and horses and earri.i'^es provided for their ajniisement. 1 hei\' ou;_^ht lo !)o man)' more di\ersions in such a place and climate, foi- the heat is prodigious. We then x'isiled the Chinese part, where .ill the shoi)s ;u'e, and saw man)' funn)' thini^s. .After dimier we wint to tlu- (.loxernnunt part to witness a " Corrobori-e," but shall fail in i;i\inL;' an) ;ule([uate de- scription of so wonilerful a sii^lil. Portions of three tribes were assembletl, the larL;est be'iivj; the " l*',mi'is," lixiuL; in tlu' immediate neii^hbourhooil ; the ne.xt the " .\lliL;ators," inun the Allii;ator Kiver, a few miles awa)' ; and the others llu' " Larikiiis.' it w.is estimated about six lumdretl were present. The i;round (cricket L;roundj was prei)ared b)' erectini;- three large bamboo canes fu'ml)' in the earth ;■ J' 4 ■.Mi:" 'ii ' ■■'' ii ' I- ay. 1 I v ' im H ,>A'. > ( it'i. i: P"; Ml JC'I ■I' i 1 1 I :U '•J i1|. 136 Voyage to China. near whicli each tribe liad its "band," consistincr of women and children. Some blew throui^h bamboos of different lencTths, making a trumpetinL^ sound, while others tapped with sticks upon pieces of wood, kee[)in_i; Ljood dancini; time. Opposite each tribe was a lari;e Hre made of sticks, and well supplied with paraffin. The Emu tribe were i^ot up to re[)rcsent the emu bird, having head-dresses two feet high to imitate the " comb and hackle.' The body was painted the same colour, with striped legs, and a bunch of feathers behind to take the place of the bird's tail. When the music arose with " voluptuous swell," these " lunu warriors " issued from the darkness with the gait of the bird, and making a similar cr\'. Then commenced the Emu dance, never losing sight of the birds' movements, even to one ascending the bamboo and perching on the top. The " Alligators " were got up like tigers and other wild animals, and came out of the darkness roaring and yelling. Tliey danced, if it might be so called, to the wild strains of their music. This lasted until nearly 1 1 o'clock, when a tropical thunderstorm sent the people to their homes, and the natives into the thick jungle, but the rain did not spoil their clothes ; not even the turkey-red, for they had none. These exhibitions arc infrequent, and only called together by the Governor upon special occasions, because sometimes the tribes get money and purchase rum, which ends in fighting. The reward is generally a few sacks of flour, just nc)W a great boon, for the jungle is very thick with the rain, making hunting most difficult. March \'^th, Tuesday.- — We were astir earl\', having arranged to leave the .ship at 8 (,)'clock for a drive. The morning was very hot, and it was pleasant to get into the lW, ,^r ■'«?.!!?> t^iV/i'. 1 r.'■ y-\ •■•ill .'t lii!".. •'"' ;r; ! I ■'■' '' ^^yvr ■ ■■:•■ !> Si;;.. ||,|! ■ ! '■'■'■■?■, ■J ill ffl in ■)■■., i. ii pi J II hi : : . ■ ■ f M I .' '' w$n' (U Ih .1 i"f Wi so to u- M in 111 ca \\i ca afi \'C 111 \vl clc of (ir tlv ba jit; y ■ / 'oycior to China. '39 iiiiv^ic out of the sun. where tlie c^rass was about 6 feet hi,ii;Ii, .111(1 where !j,i-ew l()\-el}- wild tropical flowers and splendid trees. We passed sc\eral ;^i'oup-; of nati\'es who had taken uj) their temporal-}- quarters under the trees. After an hour's dri\e we arrived at Sandv Point, on the edu'e of the bav. Here a nati\"e and his wife emerged from tlic juiiL^ie with their doL;". The}' had been hunting, and killed an " oj)ossum " f(;r tlinner. Our ladies purcliascd the wife's l^an^ies. made of g'i'ass, which Were difficult to get off her arms. We gave them s(;ine tobacco, and filled the wife's pipe, contributing to her pleasure. The man ga\e us an exhibition of the use of his arrows and spear in killing aniin;'.ls. in return. Mr. R did some conjuring tricks with mone}-, astonish- ing these simple peoi)le. who asked frequent cinoirs and uttered }'ells of delight. The}' were so pleased that they came to see tlie ship off, and bid us good-b}X'. We next visited the prison in the jungle, near the bay, where ]HUiishnient is tenqKred with mere}', and prisoners well {cd, — a pound of meat with a pound of potatoes each day f(;r dinner, and a quarter of an ounce of tobacco afterwards, with other luxuries. The labour punishment is ver}- little, for the climate is loo hot. Wc found it cool there with 95'. A short drive brought us to the Botanical Gardens, where evcr}'thing that can be grown is exhibited. A good (leal of sugar-cane anel tobacco is culti\'ated, and all kinds of tropical fruit. We rcturneil Xm the ship, and as the hour of tleparturc (h-ew near tlit re was a large gathering of people, not the least interesting sight being the Chinamen bringing back the washing. All the ship's line n was was ihct ■■ill m m til ■ i''"H ill! 'S« if! m 111; f Fjpfin "• m J . ' i. t- • I ■ ■ "i t; 140 Vo)faoc to China. '\\-n 24 hours, and many passengers had i;o()dly quantities. It was satisfactorily done where instructions liad been given for " washing, starching, and ironing " ; but it was comical to sec the faces of those who had sent shirts to be " washed," as the instructions were carried out to the letter, leaving the garments unfit for wear. When walking near Palmerston we had a conversation, under difficulties, with the king of the Imdu tribe. He is a fine old man, about 6 feet 2 inches, with a graceful carriage. He introduced us to his two brothers, who arc equally fine men. We inquired about the queen, but could not see her. These tribes are fast dying out, having small families, and as cultivation increases wild animals disapi)ear, and with them the .natives. The ship left at 5 o'clock, accompanied by a steam yacht, amidst the strains of " Should auld acciuaintancc be forgot." During the evening we had a tropical thunderstorm, w ith deluges of rain. The lightning continued for several hours. March \6t/i, Weduesday. — A splendid day after the rain. Everybody tired with the excitement of yesterday. illairh lyt/i, Thursday. — Soon after da\-light wc came in sight of the Island of Timor, a mountainous country, with foliage to the tops of the hills, and sailed close to the land until 10 o'clock, when we arrived at Deilli, a Portu- guese settlement upon a tongue of land covered with palm and other fine trees. Our steamer anchored about a hundred yards from the shore. All the passengers landed, and found a very pretty place with an avenue of trees about a mile long, and houses here and there on each side of the road. Government House, barracks, post-office, and a covered market are the :;r :P' Ill ■ith the tu- alm the tty iscs icnt / 'oyaoc /o China. 141 principal buildintjs, all in a dilapidated condition. A l.irgc number of nati\'e.s met us at the landing place, and e\cd us with the same curiositv as we did them. Some of uur ladies had \-isi()ns of " curio shops," with wonderful native baskets, and home-spun (garments, etc., so invaded all the stores ; but the}- had to retire without making;- any purchases, as not a word of understandable lan;4uai![e was spoken. The next attack was ui)on the nearly nude natives, who are a small race, with protruding mouths and little black teeth, from the effect of " betel nuts," one of which is kept under the upper lip, over the teeth, giving a dirty effect. Bangles were seen on the arms and ankles. But there came a difficulty, for the natives did not appre- ciate iMiglish money, and change had to be found. Bamboo c(imbs of the rudest construction were purchased, and a large rough knife in a sheath. W'e got together a crowd of niggers, male and female, as well as children, and Air. C fixed up his camera ; but as soon as it was observed there was a regular stampede, and we were left in possession of the road. A camera would disperse an army of natives, such is their superstition. This place has little communication with the outer world, and not much trade. Coffee is grown in the mountains, but is not considered good. The trees on the beach are splendid, some of the trunks having a girth of 60 feet. The island is much neglected by the Portuguese, who Idsc money upon its retention. The length is about 3C0 miles, and the width 60. The highest mountain is 7,000 feet, with valleys ca])able of growing anything. Splendid wheat and potatoes have been produced, but the natives are idle, and the Portuguese bad colonists. In the hands of a few Scotchmen it would soon become a valuable island. \Vc were to have sailed at 5 o'clock, but n 1: Iteif .nwni;i|.j ''(hm ■a! *i If til ' ■ t ■' ; 1 \Ht ', t:-\' ; ■ ■ rt . .1 1 ■.„ 14: l^oyaor /a China. the ;^r()Vcrnor could not finish liis tlespatchcs ; so \vc liad to settle down for the nij^'U, with the hope of startin;;- at daybreak. March iS//', Friday. — We were \\\t at ila\-!i;j;ht, but there were no siL;iis of the inhabitants of the tow n l)ein!j; a\va]' of human nature they arc most interestini;", and exemplif\- the few wants of people in the tro^jics. They require little focjd ; rice is the staple, with fruit. Clothes do not cost them much consideration or mone)'. Their beds are only ;i mat i)Ut down anywhere, and the\' do not use either chairs or tables. Ice is unknown to them, and seemed to alarm a big fellow, who had a piece given to him. We have been sailing all day in the l^anda Sea, which seems alive with n}-ing fish and porpoise. It is rather rougher than usual, {ox many passengers could not " show up " at dinner — a great disappointment, being " ice cream day." I'oyaor lo China. 143 Marcit \f)th, Safiinhiv. — At daybrcal-; \vc si|^hutl Hero Ishiiid, with it-^ mountain 9.000 feet lii;-;h, and in the niiildle (if thf niorninir came close upon it. It is a fnie island, 200 or 300 miles lonij, and about 100 wide, and is a Dutch possession, very thinly populated with Malays, and has onl\" two small settlements, and a small production of coffee. After tiffin, one of the J^au'la Sea storms came on,--s(iualls with deluL^es of r.iin ; such rain is ne\er seen out of the tropics. It h;is lieen estimated that an inch an hour comes down. The sliip has either to stop or -^o dead slow, because it is impossible to see. The S([ualls con- tinued at intervals, so all amusements had to cease except cpioits untler the awning-, March 20///, Sunday. The sun rose at 6 o'clock in a cl< aidless sk\-, with a smootli sea. Ai)out S (/clock we crossed the lupiator, always a Ljreat event on a ship. Nep- tune did not visit us, as it is said this IJanda Sea is t(JO deep. About noon we passed sf)me small isl;inds with moun- tains of volcanic oris^in, and entered the Molucca Straits, where there is a L;ood roll from the Northern Pacific, which thimied our Sunday dinner-table, and lessened the demand on the " ice creams." In the second dog-watch we, as usual, \isited the fore- castle, and saw the Sunday games. Some of the native soldiers from Timor were amusing themselves with parrots and other beautiful birds. W'e have not }-et spoken of our farm on the fore end of the ship, which was well stocked \vhen we left Sydne}',— two milch cows with each a calf, twenty-four sheep, six lambs, a number of turke\-s, gee.se, thicks, and chickens, and, last but not least, twelve pigs for the Chinamen, and a farm servant to take care of this large tamil}-. When we got out to sea it was found that the 1 ,1 ■ ,|V,V;j :'.:i;;n. i'i fiti i 144 I'oyagc to China. I '.' fiirmcr could not milk the cows. So Captain G , a passcnj^cr. volunteered to do so, and \vc all t;ave a helpini; hand. The farmer had to be taught under the penalty of being put ashore. W'e hac' fresh milk twice a day to feed the dozen or more babies, and the calves got the remainder. Before sunset we sailed close to the Celebes, a very large mountainous island, belonging to the Dutch ; then entered the Celebes Sea, which was rather lumpy all night. Manli 2\st, Monday. — A fine morning in the Celebes Sea. In the afternoon wc got under the lee of the Philippine Islands, giving us smooth water, A smoking concert, with Lord O in the chair, went off very well. The Hon. \\'. J. T gave a most interesting lecture on Australia. which called {o\\\\ some discussion. March 22ud, Tn.sdiv. — W'e were up before daybreak, to see the Island of Mindanao, which is a Spanish possession. It is volcanic, mountainous, and well wooded. If in English hands it would be productive. Sugar, fruit, tobacco, etc., arc grown ; but there is no capital or energy. The island is about 200 miles long and 70 or 80 wide, with most beautiful mountains and long valleys. We sailed in some places within half a mile of the beach, admiring the huge trees, cocoa-nut palms, and abundant tropical foliage. Wc saw the natives moving about ; at one place they lighted a fire and came out in a canoe, but the captain did not stop the ship. The rising sun gave a good effect to the scenery ; it tipped the hills with gold. On the other side of the ship we passed the Palawan Island. It was like sailing up a lake with beautiful scenery always changing. We made the Negro Islands and the Island of Panay in bright, hot weather. March 23/7/, Wednesday. — Early in the morning wc sighted Mindoro Island, and sailed clasc to it most of the ,: f. yoyagc to China. MS (lay. It is most beautiful, and lof)ks Vv?iy attractive ; but a white man cannot live there ; it is said, twenty-four hours always produce fever and death. Passing through the Mindoro Straits, we came to the Island of Luzon, with Manilla for its capital. Manilla Bay is very fine, but the captain would not call on account of the " dues." So smokers had to do without the celebrated cheroots. March 2\tJL Tliursday. — A splendid morning in the •-> ' 11 - :-i Natives and Caxof.. China Sea disappointed many, for there had been great preparations on the ship for stormy weather, the China Sea having a bad reputation. Mardi 25///, Friday. — About 10 o'clock last night we ^ot into the storm — a N.E. monsoon — and had a sleepless night, for the noise of the wind and sea, the clashing of doors, breaking of crockery, and things rolling about, made a perfect Bedlam. Our cabin in the morning was a sight, for everything was on the floor, and our boxes moved about like live things. The storm continued all day. 10 '^7" ■ ill 1 : J ■''.5 ftl ■"' l|;!' IT ' •.;;;:rl! m k'' ityr. X. CHINA. %rA "^. \%m r?» Jk A thrc l';is; vill.i saw look thci tlU' (if V I'oUl Thi,^ ;uu! as \\ On mas look Chii \\\ ■'■!i CHAPTER X. CHINA. ■;'!■; \. F :.'<,'•■ ]\/TARC}I 2Gtli, Saturday.— "^-MX^iX into I lone;- Koni;- at sunrise. After a stormy crossinsj; in the China Sea we passed throiii';h a scries of ishinds, and tlien entered tlic " Sulphur l'assa'j;e,"' wliich is vcr)- narrow, and has a small fishins;" villau'c on both sides. Comintr through the islands we saw lari^e fleets of " fishing:; junks " with elevated sterns, lookins^' as if the)' were sailing; wrcjni;" eml first tt) obli<^e their curious-lookiim sails. On cmeriiinu" from the channel tlu sun sent forth his rays and lit:jhtcd up the vast cxi)anse iif water forming the harbour, lo iniles in diameter, sur- rounded by ruLjged rocks, the hi<;hest beinL;" i,8oo feet. 1 his harbour is the rendezvous for a larije fleet, both naval ;uul mercantile, there being many fine English steamers as well as sailing vessels, giving an air of gre;it prosi)erit\'. On landing wc found a fine and beautiful cit)-, with great, inassivc buildings fronting the harbour, and comfortable- looking residences studded about on the hills, also miles of Chinese streets and shops gaily painted and decorated. We took up our quarters at the ITong Kong Hotel, being }' !• : ;CH: I .■ <: 1 ■ \ ■ ^.i: IM I mi .i: « 1 =;o China. ■ ,1. ,\a \ a delightful change after nearly a month on the ship ; and as the hotel proved to be first-class, it gave us much pleasure. The first operation was the changing of money, to com- mence a campaign in the novelty of Chinese shops, where several hours were spent in inspecting the curios, from pottery ware (beg its pardon, china ware) to food shops, where sausages are sold on strings — that is to say, the meat is threaded. Ducks and chickens are sold in joints as small as the purchaser wishes, besides inau}- other things quite indescribable, suggesting that either a Chinaman's wants are very small, or his means limited. In the afternoon we went \\\ Jhi rickshas to the I'unicular Tramway, which ascends two-thirds of the height of the Peak, i,8oo feet above the harbour. It is a most wonderful structure, with the terminus three times higher than from the sands to the top of Oliver's Mount, and steeper than the South Clifi" tram, at Scarborough. The remainder of the way has to be walked. On the top are two large hotels, patronised in hot weather, a branch Government House, several private dwellings, and the apex is crowned with an observatory. I'ortunately it was one of Inose pearly days which infuse life into old bones and adorn Nature with brightness and glory. The view of the harbour and sur- rounding hills was perfection, exhibiting one of the finest panoramic views in the world. The colouring of the blue water, bron/e rocks, and the spring green of the trees, shrubs, and flowers, produced a picture to be remembered. Turning round to the other side are a vast number of small islands, which operate as breakwaters to the waves of the rough China Sea, and give strength to this important naval .station, at the same time lending a charm to so wonderful a seascape. From this position most of the Island of Hong Kong is visible. It lies off the coast of China. 1=^1 Kujingtuni;' province at the mouth of the Caiituii Ivivcr. It consists of rugi;"cd mountain ridijjcs, with peaks, alter- nating with sandy beaches and i)erpendicular cUiTs. Its L;reatest length is about lo miles, with a breadth of i to _1 miles, and has a circumference of some 30 miles. A narrow strait separates it from the mountainous mainland, the " Ly-ec-mom " I'ass being only half a mile ,\ide. Another pretty ob- ject is the lake-like rescr\'oir of the water suppl>' of the city, with its arched aque- ducts winding round die hills something like Amalfi. \Vc regretted leaving this wonderful sight, but having other places to \isit retraced our steps to the valley. The streets of Ilong Kong being unsuit- carnages Palanquin ok '^■•;>an Chair. able for and carts, the whole of the traffic is performed by manual labour, giving employment to some thousands of coolies. Jinrickshas are mostly used in the more level pcjrtions of the city. These conveyances are on two wheels, and drawn by a coolie, who can travel at 6 or 7 miles an hour. But the great Chinese institution is the " sedan chair," most families of repute having their own, and their Coolies are dressed in white, bound with red or .some other ■, fK ft t. J« W 'rlii 'rl>i % ;/»' ■'.'•■"■■'MS ■'!»■•),;■ '• w '■■; ;| m. .f m ■1 ';;-l' ■ rtj 1 *' ' . :| ••if. [f < ■ if ;?;;<■■ ', 1 >' ' 1 ll **• lf.;l '-' l* ■'■ ■■^' '.. ."$ -:;.?> ■* ' ■'' .1 ■ll ■ • V * a i t ill 152 China. « ; colour, whereas the others are not troubled with much clothini;'. The first experience is novel on beini; perched upon the shoulders of two or four coolies. We had four, on account of the weit^ht of our Ikitish bodies, which caused the chair to swini;' from side to side, in time with the rapid steps of our bearers. It is all very well uphill, but when the coolies bear one d'cnvn a steep street at a swift pace, one clint;"s to the side of the chair with a firm grip, expecting to be launched into space, and rcciuiring great control o\-er the powers of the tongue. Horses and carts are conspicuous by their absence, the heavy goods being moved by coolies, who have long and strong bamboos on their shoulders, with the burden suspended by cords. Sometimes as many as twenty carry one package. At the tramway station we chartered jinrickshas ; and as there were over a dozen of us, the excitement was great, as the coolies are fond of racing. We passed some fine buildings, the Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank, the Public Hall, etc., and through a long avenue of banyan trees we came to the racecourse, prettily situated on the side of the hill. On the right is the celebrated Happy Valley, where the remains of all who have finished their race are deposited. The cemetery is beautifully laid out and well kept, nature having done much in \, 'oviding natural knolls, nooks, and corners, with fine trees, tropical shrubs and plants, with flowers in the greatest profusion. The resting-places of many soldiers and sailors are well noted on handsome monuments and tombstones. Returning, we passed through an industrial portion of the city, where all kinds of things are manufactured. Some of the signs over the places arc in English, striking us with their peculiarity : " Cock Eye, Contractor for Coffins," " Sat China. D^ Siiig'c, Chair Maker," " Yon Sun, Careful Washerman," " A Man, Tailor ami Mender," " Cheap Jack & Son sells best boots." The Chinese sic^ns are most picturesque, and give good effect in colour. \Vc paid our coolies for the long- ride, and for waiting, equal to cightpence each, then gave an extra copper, pleasing them very much. On Sunday morning we attended garrison drill, and saw our boy soldiers — Shropshire Regiment, Royal Artillery, Marines, and others — then we went to the service in the Cathee. , which is rather a plain building, in a beautiful situation. Afterwards we spent some time in the Botanical Gardens, which are situated on the side of the mount, with terraced walks, l:)ridges, and ravines. There are man\- rare trees and plants ; the palms are especially notcwcn'thx' — to wit, the Pamus. The Australian fern trees also seem to do well. /\ fine specimen of " I'^'cus Relu.se Religiosa 1 long Kong " struck us much, with its natural supports grown from the branches to the ground, some about six inches in diameter, and perfectly perpendicular. Man}' euphorbias are fine, also .several Norfolk Island palms. Large rhododendrons and azaleas are in flower, with many others we do not know. On the other side of the Gardens we came to the Roman Catholic Cathedral, a large building, with some architectural pretensions, but a very shabb}- inside, having an altar with a few tin virgins, and daubs of pictures. We came across another church in our rambles, built in tliL Italian style, giving, in a prominent situation, a very pretty effect. We may mention that these rambles gave amu.seinent and astonishment to the Chinese ; for they are not used to seeing pco[)le walk, and they don't like the invasion of III i +'i :■ ■'i' ft !]i^ I: '■ '. H '■ ■ .1." r I 154 C///- nm. m forciq;ncr.s. All the sanic, \vc walked .and used our c\'es for observation. The Praza, or T^splanade, facinij tlic harbour, about two miles Ioiil;", is most intcrestini,^ not only for the loadin;^" and unloading; oC junks, and bringiuL; j^oods to and from the harbour, but also for the trade with other towns and villages. Jkit thcr(> arc many other attractions, such as the F"ish Market — a long, narrow building, divided into compart- ments of about 9 feet, in each of which the vendor and his family live and carr\- on business. If poultry trade is com- bined, then a large portion of the space is taken up with chicken baskets. Small pieces of fowl are sold, as well as cuts of fish, In one place you see lobsters boiling, and cut in pieces for sale ; in another, periwinkles being extracted and placed on a plate ; in another, live fish swimming about in tubs, for which " you pay your moncj' and take your choice." Smells arc not charged for ; and as a little goes a long way, we were not greedy, and did not go in for a wholesale quantity. The sampans, or house-boats, provide for a considerable population, extending to some thousands. They vary in size from the smallest boats to junks. On some of them live two or three generations of families ; the only covering is a mat stretched over bamboos. The men work on shore, or fish, or pick up anything they can, while the women do all sorts of work — cook, wash, row and sail the boat — at the same time not forgetting their religious duties. In nearly every boat there is a shrine. In one we patronised there were twelve inhabitants, and the females were sailors — one, a nice-looking girl, with pretty, bare feet, and smart ankles adorned with silver bangles. Dogs, cats, birds, etc., f i a portion of the r r *' r , ■,,.!■ •!'• '■t ir^ China. 00 household. On one boat we saw five clean little educated pigs. The " inissey " makes them run round the boat, and jump the spaces. She rewarded them with a little orange peel. Some of the junks arc propelled by paddle wheels at the %^^^m^^^ : f ■s Qur.K.Nb Road, Hong Kong. Stern by coolies, on the principle of the treadmill, with twenty in one junk. Hong Kong has an advantage over many cities, having suffered partial demolition by typhoons and fires, and being rebuilt on improved .systems. Queen's Road is the one which has had these advantages. The houses arc all built of "111 Saw ill '1 '11 f t \\\ \\ WXC' ;i'''<''l ■■■' J;'i 4 M 1 ;l; • ■■ : 1 . - J m if' ■■ ( ' ' ; ^T 156 China. stone, and of the same l)eit;ht, with verandahs, each shop havin<^ twelve or fifteen feet frontai^e, and about twenty feet deep, with a road twenty feet in width. There are fittings in accordance with the business, and for the most part there are httle carved black-wood tables, holdini;" a small tea service, or half a dozen water pipes, for the refreshment of customers or visitors. The proprietors are very pleased if you will have a cup (jf tea or smoke with them. In the centre of the back of the shop a little lamp is kept burnini;' before a small image, surrounded by paper flowers, or a few plants, such as the favourite narcissus, or the dwarf orange. The coloured scrolls hung on the walls of the shops, some with painted devices, others covered with Chinese characters in bright tints, give a gay appearance, and, with the exhibited wares, arc most attractive to the "outer bar- barians." We also saw curtains, elegant embroideries on silk and satin, delicately carved ivories, ornaments, jewel boxes, chessmen, walking-sticks of ebony, horn, ivory, bamboos with embossed silver knobs. Other shops contain all kinds of highly wrought silver and gold — bangles, rings, tea services, etc. — while in others the wares are too nume- rous to mention. The whole has, with so much colour, a most attractive effect, and beguiled us into spending a good many hours, going from .shop to .shop to examine " curios " ; it all ended in spending money, for our purses got lighter and our portmanteaus heavier. The Chinamen shopkeeper takes life easily, and does not seem to care whether his patron buj's or not. He greets you with " Chin, chin," whatever that may mean, and is then content for you to find out your own recjuirements. We were amused with the costcrmonger class, who abound here as well as in London. Their business is gener- China. '57 all)' fruit, of which there seems an abundant supply from both tropical and temperate zones. "The itinerant barber seems to be a man of some im[)ortancc. The customer squats upon his haunches in the street, and has his head shaved, ears cleaned (nit, eyelids scraped, and any obtruding hairs removed from his nose ; then comes the important operation of narrowing the eyebrows to suit the face. Should the customer recjuire any medical assistance the barber is consulted, and the medicine produced out of the same box in which he carries his instruments. " Next comes the letter-writer, who has the confidence of his customers. He sits at the corners of the streets, and is supposed to be well versed in the black art, and can give his customers trustworthy information as to the future. In writing a letter the party dictating generally consults the writer as to the probable success of his missive, whereupon the learned scribe requests his customer to shake a tin box full of small bamboo sticks until cjne falls out. These sticks are all numbered, and refer t(j a tablet on which a list of good and evil fortune is inscribed. Should the omen be bad, a repetition is requested." Our observations lead to the conclusion that the Chinese are industrious people, living frugally ; but they are great gamblers and frequenters of opium-smoking houses. One afternoon we secured a sleeping place on the Hankoio steamer, a large flat-bottomed boat built on the principle of an American river steamer. The upper deck is set aside for Europeans, and the lower for Chinese, who have not many provisions for comfort on account of the cheap rate at which they are carried — lO cents each, equal to about ^\d. There were over fifteen hundred on board. These people were guarded by policemen with loaded firearms ; m I :i 1 ! !; !r.' mm ,1 ■ ii :!;-M: i , ■■.IJ ': * ■ r ir w ,•'■'4 3: i.: ; M ■'■J, J» iiii; pM [^ ■ ! ': t 1 ' *; > 158 China. for about two years ago an attempt was made to seize the ship. On another line a short time ago tlie English were murdered, with the result that thirteen pirates had their heads cut off, after being tortured. The first j^art of the voyage was through the harbour, then past some islands t(j the mouth of the Pearl, or Canton River, which for a time is narrow, and then opens out into an estuary with many islands. At 7.30 the anchor was dropped for the night, and the dinner-bell rang. Tliey gave us quite a banquet, and we spent a very jolly evening. At daybreak the anchor was weighed, and after a time the shore on each side of the river became most interesting — passing vast plains of rice, or padd)' fields belted with orange and lychee trees ; then by the sides of hills clustered with tea-trees and plants ; on again through vast orchards of mulberry trees and the useful and curious tallow-plant, interspersed with plantations of bamboo, which we are told is the "inseparable companion of John Chinaman from his birth to the grave. It receives the infant, corrects the boy, is the means of living for the man, and entwines the corpse." Several villages and small towns were passed, each with its prominent square brick building, which is provided in every town, and worked by the Chinese Government as a pawnshop. These arc very much used by the rich as well as the poor ; the name in Chinese is the same as we use — "uncle." It is quite common for people in summer to pawn their winter clothes and other valuables, for safety. About 8 o'clock wc approached the city of Canton, 90 miles from Mong Kong, and were much struck by the number of boats, the river being literally filled with flotillas of junks and sampans, each having its family on board. Some had bamboos and earth sufficient to form a ' 'V 1* China. '59 l^f.'irdcn for llowcrs, etc. It is cstiniiitcil this river poi)ul;i- tion nuinbers 300,000. These people not having homes on shore, arc forbidden to land without i)ermission from the Governor. The largest portion is moored in long lines on the side of the river opposite Canton, and forms quite a city of boats. Our guide, Ah Kum, Oriental Hotel, arrived just as uc were sitting down to breakfast. He said, " English must have tiffin and then start." We mustered twelve strong, and went ashore in the sampan of IMisscy Cock Eye, a wonderful woman with one eye and a large small family. She and her daughter did all the work, for there was not a man visible. We landed at the Shamecn, a small island conceded to the British. Of course it is covered with good houses and fine buildings, and nicely laid out with trees and shrubs. Mere we found a troop of coolies with palanquins, or chairs, provided for us by the guide. Our guide cautioijed us not to get separated or remain behind, or take much notice of the natives ; because there is a strongly-marked antagonistic feeling against strangers, especially English and T^rench. Crossing a bridge with strong iron gates (for the Chinese arc not permitted on the Shamcen without written orders), we entered Canton, with its population of upwards of two million pe(jple. The city is surrounded by thick walls, and divided into thirty-six sections, each having high stone walls and strong iron gates said to be fireproof, and serving the purpose of isolating fires and limiting riots. Our guide told us that there are upwards of one hundred "uncles" in the city, to which the people rush to deposit their propert}' for safe keeping if a panic arises. W^e found the streets very narrow — about six feet —and the space lessened vm. I li '! ■'Nit..; ■' ! ''■;. ^''I " . ■■ I ■■::^■^^'■|d '); ;•« K n .'i^i I lit) mm :?: n I ( 1 60 Clii)ia. !, ■■(■'' •Hi by the thousands of people passiiv^, clbowiiiL;" and jostHni,^ one anollicr on tlieir onward course. Much space is als » 1.' ' 1' ■ II in w a th Ik .Si \vl sti ar i.s mi .SC( Ch ma. •6;, tlcvils." One man, more violent tlian llie rest, threw a slonc whicli hit me on tlie head, but without chuna_i;e. I'hc most favoured temple was the l''i\e-hundred ( ienii, around which were arrant^eil five hundred life-sized !4"ilded imai;"cs, to form a double square. There was a statue of " ICmperor Keinluii;^," besides three otiier swells \'.-ho kept watch over their lUiddhist brethren. Then cami- the "Temple of Loni^evit)'," with its four friL;htful imai^es, w\v.) act as ^gatekeepers. Inside are three L;ilded imai;"es of l^uddha, and a shrine with the colossal ima'^e of a fat and jovial-lookini; Huddlia of Longevity. " The Temple of i'ive Rams," to which tlie five L;enii, who preside over earth, fire, metals, water, and wood, descended from licavcii to Canton, was next. Here, too, in a belfr\', is a i^reat bell, tlie strikinij of which is supposed to bring disaster. Therefore great care is taken that you do not strike it. A temple clock tower, from which for generations the time lias been announced, lias a most cumbrous arrangc- incnt. There arc four copper brrkets, one above the other, with taps, which drop water into the lowest one, containing a tloat witli an indication rod. Each hour is notified by the man in cliarge, who displays a board with the proper hour. On the top store}' of this tei.iple is a shrine to the god Sin I'\uing, to whom masters and mistresses \n\\\ appl}- whose slaves liave run away. We were told that slaver\- •-till continues in Chinese domestic life, and slaves are an article of merchandise. We enjoyed a walk on tlie city walls. Outside these is the " Happy Valley," which is saiil to extend 1 50 miles on tlic side of a hill, and where the >_,raves are scooped out, and the body pushed in. At the foot of the hill arc wells, from which numbers (jf \ 'i m. \ "■!:;'; U ' ' . ,'■*■. * , ■( ■1, m ' •'■' •' : '1 ■ ■: 1 '"' i; ::^::vr';'^'l 164 Chi na. -■m I ■■^' people were canyint;- water ; reminding us of Hindcrwcll churchyard, near Whitby, with the pump in the middle. We had a L;ood view of the cit}', which is said to be two miles broad and six in circumference — onl}- a small area for two million people. Continuing our walk we came to the l'"i\-c-storied Pagoda, a fine and curious building. After examining the antiquated ordnance we started again in our chairs, and A Ciii.NKsr. E.xr.cLi lox. visited the Koong Zuin, or hLxamination Mali. There arc 7,500 cells (where students arc placed for examinations), each measuring about four feet by three, and high enough to stand in. The furniture consists of two boards, one for sitting upon, the other for writing. The cells are arranged round a number of courts, exposed to the view of soldiers to prevent cribbing. The students remain until the questions are answered without food, even for a week if necessary. Our guide took us next to the execution ground, and explained how the culprit was placed upon his knees, more China. 165 (Iciid tlian alive, and liis head taken off with one cut of the ->word. Here were half a do/.cn wooden crosses, to which the culprits are tied to undergo the death of " Lien Chie," a linc,^cring deatli. For certain kinds (jf murders, such as [)arricidc, eighty-four cuts arc inflicted with a knife, com- mencing at the forehead ; and the culprit bleeds to death. r '^ A Ciiim;si: Cduki oi- jisiui:. Then came a visit to the Temple of Horrors, where models of the various methods of jjunishing criminals are exhibited, most of them being barbarous in the extreme, yet affording great attractions io the crowds of Chinese onlookers, some of whom were burning tapers, and saying prayers, cither for themselves or their friends. We were L^lad to get out of this immense rowdy crowtl. i'd m y If . !-,f ,.! 'I ■' nllfl b ^ ■•;■? ■ If"? ■ Si 1 66 C///- ///^?. \Vc were next carried to the Courts of Justice (or In- justice), a large open square, witii an entrance gate. At the far side is a small sciuare building, open to the square, and containing a table, at which sat the mandarin, or judge, and the officer who interrogates the prisoner, who is placed just on the outside, with four officers. This is the process of law : first to .satisfy the mandarin of the guilt of the prisoner, who is then brought in, and told he has com- mitted the offence. Should he i)lead guilty the puni.shment is awarded, but if not, a system of tortures is applied each day for half an hour uiitil confession is made, or death ensues. The first day thumb-screws and toe-screws are used ; the second, the prisoner is inade to kneel on the ground, then his arms arc stretched on a bamboo and tied, and the ends of the bamboo are held up in a frame. Another thick bamboo is placed behind his knees, and on each end a heavy man stands, giving intense pain by the pressure. In five minutes these men work the cane up and down, lacerating the kneecaps, and causing the most frightful agony. The poor criminal's screams and shrieks are dreadful. This' is continued for half an hour, until the kneecaps arc broken and the inuscles bruised, so that he has to be carried away in a basket. This we saw performed upon a man charged with murder, who knew that upon confes- sion his head came off. On the third day the criminal is fi.xed upon a bamboo frame with his head down. His feet are then beaten with thick bamboos until all the bones are broken, and after- wards he is removed in a basket. We saw one brought in a basket who had been so treated the day before. Poor wretch ! 1 looked more dead than alive, and his feet were Ri * ^f?T!i r ";■; '■• iB China. 167 shapeless. He confessed, or wcnild h;i\'e been hung up face downwards, w.th a cord fastened to his great toes and thumbs and pigtail. These scenes arc so cominon that, although this place is quite open to the street, few persons were [)resent. It was so horrible that we beat a retreat. The gaol is an indifferent place, small and wretched All the pri.soners arc chained, and have on their necks a huge wooden square, which prevents their lying down The on-y food they get is what friends may provide or strangers give, so that deaths from starvation arc not un- common. Canton must be seen to be understood, for otherwise it is impossible to realise the effect of such a population in so small an area, and to appreciate the intelligence and education of such a mass. For the most part the people are clean and tidily dressed. Some of the men have fine frames, with well-proportioned limbs and ver\' classical - looking faces. We saw some of the ladies who claim, to be well born on account of their small feet ; in fact, some seemed to have nothing left but the ankle joint. The effect was not pretty, for it looked like walking on two wooden legs. Our guide told us we had been through about seventeen miles of streets, and yet the coolies did not seem fatigued. After another good dinner, relating experiences, and a night's rest, we found our.sclves at 6 in the morning back in Hong Kong, where we spent the day in a variety of ways. In the evening we bid good-bye to some of our friends, and went on board the Airlic steamer for Shanghai. After a sail of 850 miles we reached the lightship at the mouth (jf the River Yang-tsc-Kiang, and steamed into Shanghai at breakfast time. Here we found a new con- ; ;■ Ml i 1' 'ii'r^ ' v&:\ ' : • % :' 'A '? ■ ml ■■'■' ii It I ')': I'ifli I; ' .i- ■ ■ ■'Til ■■ - ny. ;■; 1^1 •1 ■ ; 1 r ■'* i » 1 68 China. (lition of ;itmosplicre, for it was quite frosty, and just like an April mornint^ in luigland. The trees were [jutting forth their leaves ; the almond and other trees— the names of which we could ncjt ascertain — were in full bloom. We t(Jok up our quarters at the Ashler House Hotel, and as it was Sunday we went to the Holy Trinity Cathedral. There was a special service for the X'olunteers, who mustered in goodly numbers. Shanghai is a wonderful place, for, with a cold winter's climate, there is corresponding energy. The river front- age extends over two miles, and is divided, the first section being Chinese, with the walled cit)- ; then comes the 1^^-cnch, and then the English, with a splendid wide street and gardens facing the river, and magnificent build- ings such as banks, clubs, and business places (not shops), hotels and residences ; it is called the " Ikuid." Then comes the American, which is now ncarl}' all English. These are all divided by creeks from the river, and have substantial bridges. Next year is the Jubilee, and it is most wonderful what has been done in fift}' j'cars by the luiglish. A fine city, with a river full of shi[)s, has sprung into existence. There are many large river steamers, some going 8oo miles inland, and carrying from one to two thousand pa.sscngcrs. Opposite where we landed there were the remains of one which had been burnt a short time ago, with a loss of over 700 lives. We made several visits to the old Chinese cit}', with its walls, — something like York or Chester, — only useful a.s marks of antiquity. This city is said to have been in existence two thou.sand years or more, and has made little progress. We entered througli the " Gateway Tower," with a door about six feet wide leading into streets not any wider ; some much less, and all lined with shops Twm Chi na. 169 without windows or doors, bcini; similar tf) Canton, and the same coni^lomeration of food, clothes, iron-\\;ire, wood carving, ivcjry, embroideries, gold and silversmiths, etc., and the streets filled with people. Of course we had a guide, ■ ir it would be impossible to find the way. The Buddhist Temple is ,1 fine place, and there was a great service going on. .All round the sides of the Ijuilding were life-sized figures, and one representing the L;rcat Jost. The service seemed to consist in the people purchasing so many paper praj'ers and placing them in a large bron/.c urn with a fire inside. Then the high JOSI' rH()Ci;.-SK)N. ])ricst read prayers for all those people, and the}- were happy. Adjoining this is a large building where hundreds I'f candles were burning before large figures, and in urns ' the jars. On one side of this place was a tea house, crowded to excess, if that is possible in China, to witness a singing- bird competition. The roof was covered with birdcages containing all kinds, and the noise was deafening. How the judges could decide is best known to themselves. Our next visit was to the Courts of Justice, where we found everything just the same as in Canton, and the tortures very sim.ilar. It appears the hLuropean population have had a meeting, and petitioned the Emperor of China to relinquish these tortures, asking for the punishments to be similar to those of the mixed court in the European quarter, which answers very well. In the prison we saw China. '7' a lot of iniscrablc-lookiiii^ people, who were dirty ;uul wretched ; some with boards, others without. 0\\ the outside of the prison, boards are arranged with holes for the liead, in ciuantitics of six, both for men and women, who stand with their hands tied for daj's. " We hunj; out our banners on the outward walls," in tJie shape of handkerchiefs saturated with cucal)-ptus hekl to our noses, and there viewed the streets and "cat walks." Female Plnisii:mi;n There arc plenty of cats who parade the roofs, 'jjet fat, and are eaten, their skins being exposed for sale at the sho^) dcjors. Wc only saw one piece of ordnance, and that of a mild description. Shanghai and the country round is c[uite flat ; conse- (juently there are man)- carriages, both private and for hire, hundreds of jinrickshas, and a conveyance with one wheel, much like a barrow, but the wheel is large and in the centre, with a seat on each side, after the style of an \ m ' "' ■i 1 :' ..I ,:> ,1 n If ■ ''I "■ir ' : K ■ '♦^ 1 ■ ^ (•// /;/(^ tt '}.■> Irish car. I'rc(iuciitl)' four persons arc carried ; sumetiines a man on one side antl a pii;" or a box on the other. W'c ch'd not try this conveyance. One afternoon we took jinrickshas and went to some i;'ardcns tlirce miles in tlie country, jjassint; tlie racecour.sc and many fine-look ini;' villas on the lui^lish pattern. These i^ardens are called Tea House Gardens, and are laid out in the willow pattern, with lakes and houses in difiercnt parts of the L;rounds. in one house, in a large ro(jm on the second flcjor, a concert was going (mi. The instrumental portion was of the rudest description, — a violin-looking affair with one string, some metal drums beaten with a stick, and a double tambourine with a marble inside, cc^mposcd tlie orchestra. In tlic centre was a grotesque human being ^whether male or iemale we could not diagnose) with a false moustache and beard, screaming with all tfs might at intervals. l"hc audience was for the most part Chinese females and children cleganth' dressed, with pearls and jade stcMics in the hair, which must have taken some hours to arrange, a complexion as " fair as a lily and blushing as a rose." and ifarmcnts of the richest embroidered silks and satins, with their small feet encased in embroidered satin .shoes. On their arms was a great display of bangles, mostly gold, and rings of all kinds on their fingers, the ends of which were in gold sheaths to protect the nails, as what we ruthlessly abbreviate with scissors is supposed to be one of the Chinese beauty adornments ; but whether for /isr or (MMiament is a question John Chinaman can decide. In another building we had tea (/ Ar C/u'iirsc, served in their usual way, a small cup without a saucer being placed before us ; then a larger cup containing tea and rose leaves was half filled with boiling water and a saucer placed on the top. After a minute the tea was poured China. I o into the small cup and sugar added accordinij to taste, but no milk or cream. At the adjoining table some young Chinese ladies were surprised at the watch bracelet of one of our party, and examined it with great interest. To m.ark their appreciation tiie\' handed a water-pipe as the pipe of friendship, to be smoked with them. The finish of the refreshment was marked by a bov handing to each person a nap] />. >y /(^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 i' MP. ^ i/r"^-; ' • Lilt-' , '..4 • ' ' .' ■l-'l ■ »■«;! if« 4''; !| ■ ■^.-i 1 ■'%:.. 1 ' L^'i^r'"' 1 1 ■! »'"; fl,!!^ iLJ^lS 174 C hill a. devotions. There is a villaj^c of a few hundred people, all bet^Ljars frcn childhood to old age, and most persistent beggars, too, each carrying a flat collecting basket ; and a dozen or more are pushed at you at once. It seems the same as in Italy and Ireland : religion, beggary, and dirt go together. The pagoda is very fine and of early date. It is se\en stories high, with a fine view from the top. There being nothing else to see, we went on board a superior sailing sampan, and found a swell lunch, or tiffin, .sent from Shanghai, — hot soup, cold chicken and ham and other good things, wine, beer, coffee, etc. After discussing this meal, anchor was weighed, and tlie huge sail, riggetl on bamboo, was set ; and as there was a fresh breexe we went away at a tearing pace. Another day we went to afternoon tea, in answer to an invitation from ]\Iiss H , at the London Mission, and had an enjoyable time. The London Mission is a large pile of buildings containing chapels, hospitals, and dwelling- houses, situated in the European Chinese quarter. It is wonderful how the Chinese have improved under European rule. The .streets arc wide and clean, and the shops are large and well kept. The population of this part is about eighty thousand wcll-tc-do people, who carry on all kinds i; Fisui\( portion of the passenger traffic, is carried on in junks, and the foreign business is all done thmngh Shanghai. Chines(^ fishing is a great institution, and there are many and peculiar methods of catching fish. One is the em- ployment of cormorants, trained for the occupation. A fish erman t)n a sm all bamboo rafi has -ix or eight of the.se birds perched on the sides, each bir*.! having a ring round its neck to prevent it swallowing any but small fi'^h. The man sculls down tl.e river until the birds become uneasy, 13 l-,' • i 4 \\ )JH 178 China. :^;-i t .^^ when the raft is stopped and over {j[o the birds, returnin;^, as soon us the fish is secured, to their perches. The man then takes the fish out of the bird's throat, and so the operation ^oes on all day. The timber junks are wonderful spectacles, as the timber is packed on each side until the junk in the middle looks quite small. At the bifurcation of the rivers is a fortification, behind which many, indeed quite a fleet, of war junks are anchored, lookint; as though one or two English gun-boats would dispose of them in an hour. The mouth of the Yang-Tsc- Kiang becomes so wide, that if it were not f(3r the colour of the water it is like being out at sea We had quiet weather in the Yellow Sea, but this changed as we got into the Sea of Japan, where the seas became considerable, and interfered w ith the comfort of most of the passengers. \-\\ XI. JAPAN. J ■ >% I >*,! hI :l .3 if !!■; ^ !* ' • -i : ; 1 "■' ' 'iu ' *; if ,,.(5 « ■ ijJ 0' ' ''''^ If ''i! ^•^i ■'ill ^1 f. ii [It! ^■^ i CHAPTER XI. JAPAN. PASSING the harbour — a natural harbour of refuge of Nagasaki, we sailed under the protection of many islands, which were most picturesque in appearance. Some of them were like cones with a few trees at the apex, and brown earth or sand at the base, while others looked mo.st fertile, and are cultivated in terraces something like the vines on the Rhine. About 4 o'clock in the afternoon we sailed into the Straits of Shimonoscki, u hich in .some places are not more than half a mile wide, with villages on both sides. When the ship's siren w as .sounded a consider- able number of Japs came out to see us p.iss. The hills on both sides are of considerable altitude, highly cultivated, and exceedingly pretty. There are several fortifications on the hills, looking .somewhat for- midable, but in 1.S64 they .soon had to cave in under a bombardment. This strait led us into the renowned inland sea of Japan, which for the first hundred miles is somewhat wide, and not of particular interest beyond being surrounded by mountains. We steamed at .slow speed, and arrived soon after 5 o'clock in the morning at the islands. All ^ M^S \ m :ii^| illji! \S\ 4 Ki"l, '■ ;<^ .{)' 'M:^. il . • ■! :^:^f ••• 182 Japan. the passengers turned out to witness the sunrise, and enjoy the frosty air of this beautiful morning. Ikin^ a threat chant^e after the tropics we had to pile on all available wraps. It certainly is a wonderful si^dit to sec so many islands, estimated by the Japs at several thousands. The question is, have they been counted ? The smaller islands are of every conceivable fantastic ..shape, some bein^ mere rocks, while others arc of con- siderable hei^dit and size. Nearly all arc inhabited by a half-farmini;, half-fishing- population. The .shores are lined with villaj^es, the hillsides laid out in hiiijhly cultivated plots, and the waters studded with very small-looking junks and fishing boats. In some of the passages between the islands the channels are very narrow, and there is hardly room for two vessels to pass. After a splendid day, with floods of sun.shine, we arrived at Kobe about 5 o'clock. The work of getting ashore in a steam launch was quickly accomplished. The Jap Customs .selected only two boxes out of all the luggage for examination. Fortunately, neither belonged to us, though the process was only superficial. After establishing ourselves at the " Hiogo Motel " we went for a walk before dinner, and were accompanied the whole way by jinricksha men, who could not be made to understand that their services were not required. We enjoyed our first walk in Japan, for the novelty of the people and tow n, as well as the beauty of the situation, appealed to our admiration. The European Settlement, as it is called, faces the sea, and the foreshore rejoices, like Shanghai, in the name of " Bund," where there are sub- stantial buildings— the Banks, British Legation, extensive w arehouses, offices, and this Hotel in the centre, with sixty- five apartments, most of the rooms being arranged in suites. m Japan. •S3 There arc oiil)' about 6oo luiri)peans, 300 of whom arc l^iv^h.sh, with about 130,000 Japs, who arc such enter- prisinij people that they use every effort to supplant luiropcaiis. Twenty years ago this was a fishing village, now it is a fine city with wide streets, all sorts of institutions, and lighted with electric light. There are railways, telegraphs, and telephones, and a splendid harbour filled with ships from all nations. April 13///, Tuesday. — A pouring wet morning and a great disappointment. After breakfast we arranged our luggage, ;ind sent all, except a Gladstone bag, to Yokohama, to meet us there in three weeks' time, because many journeys had to be made in jinrickshas. VVc then went to the Legation for " passports," and to the Bank to change money. After that we spent some time in visiting large establishments, where all the products of the arts and manufactures can be seen and purchased. Our notions of Japanese wares, from what has been seen in shops elsewhere, or even at the Japanese exhibitions) fell far short of what can be seen here. The real curios are works of art. and command high prices. In the after- noon there was an improvement in the weather, so w^e took jinrickshas to the " Nunobiki," or waterfall, two miles from here, on a broad, even road, lined on either side with commodious tea-houses, mineral baths, and re- freshment stalls. Several foreign-built houses are scattered along the western slopes, commanding a fine view of the mountains and Osaka Bay. The trees are very striking just now, being covered with blossom. The cherry and peach look wonderfully gay. The falls are very pretty, and gave a good effect after the heavy rain. The first one is about seventy feet, and the iKi 1 ml i84 Japan. t*1 second ciLjhly-rivc feet. The f(jli;i^i- ;U tlic sides is lovcl}-, with lar^c bushes of camt-lh'as in flower. W'c patronised tw ^ea-houses commanch'n^ views of the falls, and had tea in Japanese fashion, served by pretty little maidens, or, as they are called here, " Musmees," who were most polite and full of fun. They seemed to enjoy our presence much more than we ilid their tea. The novelt)- of their costumes and familiarity were some- thing new to us. One strikin;;' feature of these people is their sniallncss ; it makes us feel ([uitc tall. The aver.i<^c for men is about five feet, and women fvjur feet si.\. They have rather larj^e heads and faces for such small bodies, hidden by their costumes and high pat- tens, raisin;4" them at least three inches from the Ljround. The natural politeness of these little A "Mlsmki." people is somethinij won- derful. Upon entering; and Icavinij a room, and when- ever they are spoken to, they make a bow which would quite put to shame a Frenchman. We saw the hotel proprietor knock a man down and swear at him, but he soon regained his feet, made a most polite bt)W, and retired smiling. Every Jap .seems to smile and look pleased even under trying circumstances. We had quite a bevy of tradesmen in our bedroom to show their wares, fa pail. 1S5 and wlicn wc did ikjI bu\' the\' bowed and went awa\' sinilinL,^ April \\f/i, W'iuf II, sdiy. — Hciivj; a fine morniiii^ we rose at 5.30, and had a Iool< round, then took a jiiUMcksha, and went all ihrouj^h the old part of the town. Most of the iioiises are built of wood, splendidly fitted toijether, for Jap joiners are artistic workmen. There is very little <^lass used. In summer the house fronts an quite open, and in winter frames filled with rice-paper act as windows, and look like ground ijlass, but it is quite easy to put your stick throui^h them. At 9.30 we started by rail for Osaka, whicli is an hour's ride through a hii;hl\'-cultivated country. The i)e;icli and cherr\- blossom were in '^MXMt perfection, and the plain at the fool of the mountains WKuderfully laid out for irris^ation; the whole is kept like a garden, and planted with rape, which is a larL;e industr\', as the seed is exported to all p.irts of the world. Rice is larL;ely i^rown. and it is considered at the to[) of the tree for (juality in man\' markets. The houses and temples of several \Mllai;es we passed on our way were most picturesque, and the number of people travelling; made the train look quite luiglish. The officials were all dressed like Europeans. At Osaka station a number of people i^ot out. We took jinrickshas to the " Hotel Jintei," which is certain!}- not I'.n^lish, and secured a funny little room over a river. This place is called the " Venice of Japan." There are any amount of rivers and canals. These rivers are crossed by 400 bridt^es of wood, stone, and iron, and .some of the modern bridi^es over the Yodogawa are very fine structures of stone and iron. The area of the city is about S miles square ; it has a population of over 600,000, only So of whom are Europeans. i ■ ■; m ■:K it -v. t if Mil J vS n i Sir J' i li - u iS6 ./'0 ail. ' 'I Osaka is situated on a plain, with the lia\- of Osaka on onr sidi' aiul mountains on the otiur. It is a vei)- line city, witli mill's of i;()ch1 streets, and a most imlustrious population, who mani ifact ure al KUlllS o f tl uns's m th eir sho[)s. We visited the (io\ernment bazaar, for the sale and exhibition of all local products, and were astonished to fnul nearly excn'thint;' reiiuired b)' man at chea|) prices. f antii[uities, and the In tl ie same place is a museum o Botanical (larcKns, wliere the trees were in full bl oom. Th ere is also a small collection of aiiiirials, a •pt m tl le most perfect order. On eiexated ground stands the Castle, built about three hundred \'ears :vji,o, with a larL;e moat round it, and at that time it must have been imprei^nablc, beini:^ built of stones, brou;4ht o\er fiitx' miles. The stones are the lari;est we ever saw in a buildiuL;, and the wonder is how in those daj's of little or no machiner\- such weights could be dealt with. Curiosit)' led us to measure some of them, and, computing" the weight at tweKe cubic feet to the ton, ^ave three to four hundred tons as the wei'^ht of some blocks. It is approached by a strong tower, and the walls enclo.se a lari;e .irea, containinj;" a fine house or mansion for the use hen he visited this place. There .ire un w of the " Shos. gardens, barracks, drill grounds, magazines, etc, l-'rom the upper part tiere is a fine \iew of the cit)' and surrounding countr)', and we were on the top when the \i o'clock gun was fired. .After tiffm a long ride brought us to the celebrateil Temple of TennoN'i, with the usual approaches. On entering the great south gate we fountl t)ur.selves in a large open space, in the centre of which is the grand temple, and opposite Is a fine five-storied pagoda, built five hundred )'ears ago to give •niployment to the people. On Ja[>an. iS- thc otlur sIlIl- is the " liKlo-tio-kaiU'," or W-W of 1 .iMdini;. which is run^ in order that the " saint prince " nia>- K lui the (lead into paratlise. In thi- same enclosuri- is the tortoise pond, where people make an offeriiii; of a tortoise, which is never ilestroyed ; consetiuently, there is a collection oi a thousand or two, or peihaps more. In tlu' centre are two larL;e stai;es, upon which the animals i)erch. Ilundreil-; are swinimini;' round the edi^e with their heads out, askini; lor food. The trees are \ery tine, and of various kinds. The most conspicuous are the cam[)hor, ciclar, and wild clurr\', now in bloom. \\\' will defer any (lescription of the temples until mon- have been seen. Keturnini; we came to the show stret'ts, where are the theatres, jus;'^lers, conjuicrs, and all sorts of amu-^ements. They were full of pi'ople, who were makiui; an\- amount of noise. There are six theatres, and the pi riormances com- mence at 9 o'clock in the morm'ni;'and end at o'clock in the eveniui;". I'he t^uitle tolil us that the exports from this cite are immen.se ; and in umbrellas alone last \ear (>\er 700,000 left tlie cit\' for various parts of Japan and thiiia The ri\er seems (|uile busy at nii;ht with boats L;oin;4 backw.nils and ftirwards, tlu" people spendini;" hours ever\- m'i;ht sailin;^' about. The)' have music and refreshments, and their boats .uc illuminated with the L;ayest lanterns. April \4ff/, ritiiisday.- — \ brilliant spriui^ morniuL;, with a cool, sharp air. We started in jinrickshas for the station, and passi'd throUL;h two miles of streets. The shops looked very ^a\- with their wares exhibited. Crowds of passin^crs were waitini; for tlie train. It i;ave us an o])i)ortunity to examine the condition of travelKrs in comparison with other courUries. All tlie people were clean, well dressed, and ortlerl\-, and there was no crnshin;,; or crowding. Their politeness to each other, ;uul espeeiall\' > ill tin ill i>'i • ^ i\ >i M ' i u m A ^p Itxi Jcl/^ClfL to the females, and those with children, was most plcasin<; to observe. Their gay costumes looked admirable, except where some had a mixture of Japanese and Eurcjpean, the hat being the offending covering. Imagine a gay Jap's costume being crowned with a " bell to[)pcr " ! Leaving the city, we saw two large manufactories built of brick and stone, not quite as large as Saltaire, but certainly much larger than most of our mills. It appears one belongs to a company (Limited) for the production of cotton, and the other for woollen, both of which staples have to be imported. \Vc passed several large villages, with their respective temples, and through highly cultivated lands, until coming near the mountains, when the train followed the course of a pretty river, winding round hills covered with trees, and quite reminding us of Switzerland. Arriving at Nara, we reached one of the oldest towns in Japan. For some years in the eighth century it was the capital ; and although it has much decreased in size, many traces of its former grandeur still remain. At the railway station we took jinrickshas, and, winding round several roads, and up hills, arrived at an imposing tea-house, overlooking a fitic jiark with stately pine and other trees, some of the trunks being 30 feet in circum- ference. It might well have been Studley, or ICnowle, or any other well-timbered English park, plentifully stocked with deer. After arrangin; for lunch, which we had brought with us, and a table and a few chairs (for, being Japan, there were only cushions on the floor, and no tables or chairs existed), we started throug 1 the park, and at the end oi a long avenue reached the temple W'akamiya, dedicated to Anna-no-Koyanc. :;t' Japan. 189 Tliis lont^ avenue was lined on c;ich side with handsome lanterns made of fine santlstone, about 6 to 8 feet hit;h, with inscriptions upon the stem. The upper part, ex bonnet, is hollow, and holds the light, which has before it a piece of rice paper as a i)rotection ai^ainst the wind. These lanterns, for half a mile, are packcil closely to- gether (jn both sides of the road, and ha\e been presented to the temple by sinners, or otherwise, who wishetl to have their way lighted to " Glory." Near the temple is a'.i ojien shedhiglily decorated, where pilgrims bow down, and, ;is in our c.-.se, travellers rest. Opposite, is a long, low building, which is occupied by the priests, and where all their paraphernalia is kept. Having made arrangements b)' means of the " almighty dollar," three pretty young girls appeared from beh.ind a curtain, dressed in wide red trousers, with white stockings, but no shoes, and a gau/.\' mantle trailing on the lloor behinil them, inscribed all over with Japanese characters. A description (^f the head-dress is left to the last on account of its grandeur, which eclipsed the whole. The hair was gathered into ri long tress, and hung down the back, being .secured by gold rings having another or double- ring, 00, standing off. Then near the head came some golden skewers, and on the forehead there was a large bunch of artificial flowers, wisteria and scarlet camellia, ornamented with more gold. The faces of the girls were plastered over with white, and the lips were rose colour. The orchestra consisted of three female priests, one flute, and one tom-tom, whilst the third sang a kind of dirge Meanwhile the girls went througii rather graceful gvrations, first with branches of trees in their hands, and then fans and small bells. The temple, a fine building, was chiefly interesting on :^n 'y^\ h Hil 190 Japan. ■^v -vi; li account of Ixmii^ filled with bronze lanterns, some of exquisite desif:jn, and all with costly decorations. Passing; another rcd-and-whitc Shinto temple, somew hat deca\-ed but celebrated, and also the much-famed bell, which was cast ii 732 A.D., and is 13 feet hii^h, and IJ tons in weight, we came to the '' Todaigi," wherein is the imtnensc building, said to be 290 feet square, and containing the largest " Daibutsu "or Buddha in Japan. This Buddha is composed of bronze, which at one time was gilt all over ; but, through suffering from fire three times, and having to be repaired considerably, like Paddy's coat, the gilt is now in jiatches. The figure is enormous, and, although in a sitting pos- ture, is o\cr 60 feet high. The legs are crossed, the right hand uplifted, and the palms turned outwards. On the right-hand side is a gilt figure 18 feet high, and on the left another about the same size, but looking as nothing in comparison with the large figure. In another building round the sides is arranged an exhibition of ancient fine art objects, and the present works of art and manufacture in the district. This is provided b}' the Government, which seems anxious to educate the tastes of the people. Returning to the tea- house through the park, \\e saw herds of deer, quite tame, which followed us for food, and ate out of our hands There were also two white ponies in stalls, standing with their heads out, ready to take biscuits. These are holy animals, and dedicated to the temple. Our lunch w as an amusing affair, but it had to be cut as short as possible, owing to our having a long ride before us. At 2 o'clock we started in jinrickshas, with two men each, for a ride of 28 miles. This seemed quite impossible, for the afternoon was very hot. However, the first 14 Japan. 191 miles were accomplished in ten minutes under two hours. The road was good, winding round high hills covered with trees, and following the course of a fine mountain river for many i liles. The land is in the highest state of cultivation, and like well-kept market gardens, growing rape, wheat, and, w here irrigated, rice. There arc large orchards of fruit-trees, all trained on bamboos, and large tea-plantations also with bamboo frames, to protect, when covered with mats, the leaves from the sun. \Vc were told that some of the tea grown here fetches three dollars per pound — that is, nearly nine shillings. Passing through several long villages, a halt was inadc at a small one where the water was good. The jinricksha- men, after their run of 14 miles, drank .some, and then washed themselves, and in half an hour, having had a little smoke, were ready to start We regaled ourselves with cups of tea, being, as it would appear, more tired than the men. Starting again, \\c came to a large village, which was a mile long, called I''ushimi, where the population rushed out to see " foreign mans." Crossing a fine river, larger than the Rhine at Coblentz, we followed a road made across the arm of the lake, Oike, where a considerable amount of fishing is done in all ways, traps, nets, etc., and where rice is cultivated in the shallow places. The sun setting behind the mountains was very beautiful, and the reflections in the water extremely ps tty. On entering Kioto, lights were just coming from the houses, and, passing through a long street, we arrived at the foot of the hill leading to our hotel, the " Yaami," at 6.30 pm., thus completing the second 14 miles in two hours, the whole journey of 28 miles, with stoppages i I -1 ''it fi^-l his ;4 ' .'•*.;'■ II 192 Japan. included, Uuis onl)' occupyini; four and a half hours. The nuM, did not seem at all fatigued, and talked and laughed as though they had been going at ^ miles an hour. These men, who carried our b\- no means light weight, were under five feet in height, and built like cobs. What would one not give for such lungs and endurance I In passing through this 28 miles of loveh- country wc never saw any sheep or liorses, only two bullocks, about three dogs, and nowhere a glass window. The " Vaami " is a splendid hotel, about 200 feet above the plain, on the side of a thickly wooded hill, and is built in sections like three Swiss chalets, with \"er;nid ihs on each floor. The cit\\ lighted with electric lights, looked like the heavens on the ground. AprU I 5///, i8(j2, Friday. — Kioto, or Kj-oto. is a large city, with a population of 320,000 ; it is on a plain surrounded with mountains and well-wooded hills, and has a fine moun- tain river running through it. It also boasts of a canal 10 miles lonu", wl 'ch was made four vears ago at a cost of two million dollars, as a means of conveying goods and pa.s- scngers to the villages on Lake Biwa, and also of supplying water power to some manufactories. This city has an ample supply of good water from Artesian wells, and also of manufactories of all kinds, but of silk especially. A great many streams of water, diverted from the ri\-er, flow through the various districts, and are used as water power or supply. I'rom the windows of this hotel there ;u-e superb view."?, and the garden is an artistic creation There are little lakes, filled with gold fish about 1 5 inches long, crossed by miniature bridges, and planted with miniature trees. The magnolias were in full flower, and contrasted with the /iifi.ni. i^'o "wild chill)-,' the sacred H\c of Japan. There was a lar^^i' one in the mad at the bottwm (if the s^arden in full bldoni. and fires were ke[)t burnin;j,' near it all ni;4ht to keej) off the frost. We started after breakfast for the Castle, which is a fine buildin;4 in some lar-^e ^'arden-^, now used as an exhibition of arts antl manufactures, the grounds being laid out in Japanese fashion. After that we \'isiieel the gardens of the palace belonging to the Mikado's mother — a large place, well laid out, and having a diverted portion of the river running through il, forming waterfalls and lakes, matle with rocks, crossed by fancy bridges. The trees were splendid and in full blooin, one curious tree being without bark, and its name, trans- lated into I'Lnglish, is the " nionkev slip di)wn tree." After tiffin we hatl a ride of about 6 miles into the hills to see the (lolden Temple, which was built 630 years ago. It is beautifully situated in a deep gorge, with trcxs and a fine lake in front. The lake is well stocked with golden cari), some two feet long, which are fed and kept as holy fish. This is a Buddhist temple. Our road there lay through tea and bamboo plantations. At the Golden Temple we saw a most wonderful tree, which has been trained to represent a junk. It i-^ 30 feet long and about 20 feet high, and must have had a great deal of time spent over it, as every twig is trained. Near the hotel is the temple of "Choin," approached from the valley by long flights of stone steps 20 feet wide, and a ver>- massive structure. Still highei'. in a belfry, is the largest bell in Japan. It is said to be 18 feet high, <■) feet in diameter, and ij\ inches thick, and can be heard for many miles when struck with a timber beam. In the evening we went to sec the "cherry dance," which If I i' I '• ..^ li! m. f, ., ' •'-•iK.'J l-y mi 194 fapaii. ?, ■' iJ i< '' i-r i r rill ^^ tl' ti' is performed tluriiiL;' the fust f(irtiii;j,ht in Ai'ril, when the sacred cherry is in bloon:. This dance is in a lar^e theatre, which is thoroui^hly Japanese. There arc not an)- seats, the aucHcnce kneehnL;' and sittinij; on their feet on the tloor, whicli was covered with red rut^s. It is surpris- in;^ how many can pack into a ;4i\en space in this wa\ , men, women, and children, and all behavinLj with perfect decorum, and usini; Ljjrcat politeness to each other. We were first admitteil to the waitincj-room, and had the pleasure of mectin;^ .some nice Japanese ladies and s^entle- mcn, who ^avc us orau'^cs, and in return we s^axq. them ICnii^lish cigarettes. The ladies seemed to enjoy the smell of our style of tobacco. The theatre is a larcre buildintr lighted w ith the electric light ; but, to keep up old customs, of which the Japs are very conservative, candles arc used for footlights, and a .servant snuffs them when necessary. The performance consists of two orchestras, one on each side- — on the left sixteen elegantl)' attired musmees with tom-toms and metal drums, and on the right sixteen more, with an instrument similar to a guitar, but the strings were struck with a piece of ivory like a paper-knife. Then came sixteen musmees from each side of the stage, gorgeously attired, having fans and cherry-blossom branches in their hands. These thirt)--two musmees advanced on the stage with elegant movements of the bodv, making gestures with their fans and branches of blossom, keeping time with the music, and all singing a kind of chant. The performance commences at 5 o'clock and continues till 12, the variations being in the turns and gyrations. Once the)' presumably represented cats on the housetops, all the actors mewing. The musmees are the singing and dancing girls employed at the various tea-houses, one set only performing twice Japan. 195 in the fdrtiu'i^lit, thus i;iviiV4 the people an interest in the various i^irls, most of whom arc very pretty. April \()tJi, Saturday. —On a briUiant morniivjj wc started in our jinrickshas with two men. and proceeded at a i^ood pace throut^h the city, v hicli is 3 miles across, then followin;^ the road bounded by fields all under irriijjation We should call them market t,fardens, with their rape, rice, spinach, etc. Ascendin;^ rising ground, and passing temples, also the priests' residence, we came to tea planta- lions and miles of bamboo with its graceful foliage, some of the canes being seven or eight inches in diameter : then winding round hills covered with cedar-trees, arrived at a mountain river with a road by its side ; rising quickly, we entered a gorge, making an ascent, which ultimately was over 2,000 feet above the valley. The two coolies maintained a pace of nearly 6 miles an hour, and objected to our walking on account of the speed. \Vhen nearly at the summit we came to a village with ample tea- houses. Here our men rested for ten minutes, and had some water, then started again, and entered a tunnel nearlv half a mile long. On emerging, the view into the valley was superb and enchanting, being full of sun, and looking into another range of mountains. Descending rapidly, we came to the village of Hoyii, a most curious place, probably not changed for the last thousand years. The houses were all thatched in fantastic forms, and the roads are hardly four feet wide, and go at right angles on two sides of the houses, the jinrick.shas having some difficulty in getting round the corners to reach the Kaburawaya, a fine mountain river. At the end of this village the river, with its rocky bed and huge stones, rushes into a deep gorge with mountains rising almost perpendicularly from the water, which roars and rushes as if to destruction. We N»ere told that our exit \WJ •' Hi I ; •■ n '■ i ;'^ 'ih . ■'( '' I '.<<■. ■^'m Itv; \ r \; ii.-' 1 06 Japan. was tliiit way ; and although it looked impos^ihk', tlic flat- bottomed boats, about forty feet lon;^, with their upuinied noses, were, Hi\e the eels, used to it ; so in we i;ot with 'ricksha and cooHcs, and were pushed off by the liardy- lookin<^ little Jap boatmen with their stroni;' bainhoos. The boat seemed to take a header into the first rapid, which sent our hearts into our mouths, but, after wri<^^lin;4, twist- inij, splashin;^, and bumpiuL; on the rocks we L;()t into smoother water ; and then passed throULjh 14 more rapids in a di tance of 13 miles. The latter ])ortion is vi^rv ])retty, bcinc; well wooded, and at one place havin-^^ a Swiss-locjkintj; tea-house, with a fancy garden. Ow this part there were do/ens of boats, some with i)icnic parties, others fishinij and musical parties. Miss and Master Jap have a great idea of rational pleasure, and on these occasions indulge in fine clothes, and seem very loving. A couple of miles lower down we came to Arashizama, opposite the finest mountain of the locality. Many cherry trees are cultivated on its slopes, and, being in full bloom, produced an effect of wonderful beaut\', appearing like a cloud of lleccy whiteness. Mingled with the cherry was the maple, just then sending forth its new leaves of copper colour, and on the banks of the river were flourishing beautiful azaleas. A bridge called Togetsukyo, meaning the " Moon-View," crosses at this point. We landed at a tea-house, and from the upper verandah there was a continued beauty of scenery quite indescribable, also .something else which attracted the attention -a mo.st elegant lunch sent from Kioto ; and as there were good appetites after the long morning, we received with pleasure the attentions of the pretty young musmecs, who arc good waiters. At 3.30 another start was made in our jinrickshas, Japan. 197 ;iiul \vc follow cil the course of the river for 1 miles, when we c'linc to the Hiiddhist Temple of Y;iii;i;4id;ini, a very famous teinplc, havinj^' many relics of the Mikados, and also a stream of water claimed to have L;reat healinL^; powers. Just around this place some of the finest tea in japan is y;row'n, and sold from three to five dollars per pountl. Four miles more brou;-;ht us back to Kioto throu^di an a;4ricultural district. V\'c pas.scd a is workcil b\- a siirl ropr, ami watrr power. (leUin;^' tin- junk with its car;>;() and cri'w vipon llu' UML;;^on is iiii^xnious. riu- junk sails into a dock, and the was^j^on is raised up -^ufricientl) to seeurc the vessel, and tlu'U the ascent coniinences. lM)ll()wini^ a Country road uphill all the \\a\', with now and ;i;^ain steps, where we had to alight and climb while our jinricksha man took up his vehicle, we were charmed with the trets, (lowers, and pretty views of iiovel-lctokiuLj buildinc^s, real artists' corners, and a number of Japs passiiit.j, the ladies and children in the ^a\'est costumes, all smilintj and lookincj pleasant. We ariived at the entrance to the Temple of Xanzenji, situated in a lart;e ^f.irden and L,frounds. This Temi)le is like a museum, there bein^ l^allers' aft. r L;"allery of all kinds of works of art, pictures, carved i\driis. cloisomu' work, laccpier work, old cabinets, trays, wnrkboxes, sworils, etc., all of the most ele'.^ant descrip tion, contributions from lutbles, and even the Mikado. After spendiuLj some time in viewin;^ these treasures we came to the refectory, a room without furniture, exceptiuLj a llowcr stand in the corner, and had to squat on the floor as well as we could, and receive from a priest some powder tea and cakes. He handed the i^cntlemen each a cup first, which were of course passed to the ladies, but with an impatient ijesture he put them back. It appears in the temple a woman only " plays second fiddle," and the man must eat first. I'owder tea is the green leaf dried quickly, and then reduced to an impalpable powder, and is so ;^reen that there mi^ht be an addition of some chemical. About half i ifi^ \\i ^t; A - . il!' ! - If' ' ^ I I 'I !■ 1 1; ' :• 3 ! i! Hi .' ' I'! : 'i. % ' f. HI H \ lit- %Vk :5^ r. • ,,; Ji 1 •■■• x% r|| 1 tK i » R ^ ^^ i w \ ^'\ ^ '{l • ' ' 1 'j^ji ^ t - k 'Jfi ii ' ft' TO 1 ; h- .li i [' i;l •m jl ¥ ^'!>' n ■*-«»' i 200 fafhV!. a ti' ispootiiiil i^ |)l;uT(l in a cwy with sdiiu' Ixiiliiu; wali i', and lluai the most i K \\.\\\\ liltlr w liisk is n-id, nialvini; ,i i up iiri^iviMi tiMlii. It is \'T\' sliMU;;', ami ninsl he an ar(|uir. d 1 istr. I I(i\\c\ I'l', wi' (liank il.and (inl\' Irll siinuilatcd. It is suri.' til ccnu' inti I iisi' at tt'i'total dinnrrs when known, lor wc .||"i' told tin- si cond rn|) is an " i. w-op. nri- " 1 he cost was ^.\ cxMUs tor tonr pi isons. I n till' ti nipK- propiT llu'iv is a larL;i' pniniiii; Jo 1)\ •;(.) ti'ct, ' rprr-^rnlinL;' in tlir niiddlc a drad priist sniToundi-d by iTowds of jjioplr cryini;', and animals with laiL;c ti-ars in tlu'ir c\x's. Sonic of tlu' rxpri-ssions wcrr most coniicd. JA'axin;.;- this place, and lollowinL;' a most pictut\s(|nc mountain ro.id lor some distance. \\c passed tliroUL;h ,i ;for!4e which opi'ned on to a plain surroundi'd 1)\- ti\'e ckul lalh, diowin;4 pini'^ cidai-s. and ilelicati'l\' Ka\ed (Urowii) mai)les, ,dl iVin-'eil in with bamboos, and in the "nidst a \ er\- prelt)' \illa;4i', with ua plantations, and patches ol r i])c in lull \'ellow bK)om, the whole backctl up with brown \oli-;;m'c mountains. A preltiii" scene could not beimai^ined, itul we saw it to ad\anta'' lull ol sunshme, assiiii lhroUL;h I'u- villa;j,e. we canu- to the ci'lebrated Kurodani I'cmpK', beautiluUx' situated on the site of a hill, al nion.iste; \-. lere, lo r the llrst time, we heard ])rii'sl' so a and xouni: men chantnu I'l u re IS a ricliU' carwd uilt shrnie d bv I )V lum-e containitiL; the cfiii^y oi Ilonen Shonin, carvt in 1 J07, with many other treasures. ()pi)osile the temple an- two wonderfully trainee' trei-s 500 \'ears old. (^ne is the tree of peaci'. for aftt-r a battle the soldiers come lo hauL;' llu'ir armour upon it. On the spur of a hill i.s a small tempK' commandin-^ a fme \ie\v. and ;v little fartlicr on, up a loni; IliL^ht of stt'ps, is a cemeler)' crowded with tombstones about .|. feet scpiarc, ami touchini; eacli other th as J^H )S arc alwa) )uru( siltmsj; oil their ^';' H!l trees );iltlc In iIk- \ic"\v. irlcry lluir faf^au. 2ul tcii.wlu'ii iu>t iTi'iiiaU'd. Now ahmit oiu" half l;<> tlui iii;'li thr siiiitary ]):in\ss, wlirn otiK' oiu- Un>tli and a picir ol hmu- fioiii tin- throat an- hiirii-d. jiist oulsidr tin- w all> oiu ot our part\- ivilK'd a sii.d an- Ihu" tn-rs with a nu-andniiu; laiicy lake lull of i;old fish. Tin- nii;htini;. drs and oIIkt hifds wne IdlinL;' the air with lluir souses. In tin- cenln^ is a tiiracr of white sand about .| feet hiL;h, and done up in a eiu'ious shape tor \\orship]>iii'^ ilu' moon. . //>;■// ji)///. Widiicsiidv. Soon alter S o'clock wc started in jinrickshas, and, p.issiiiL;" throUL;h tiie latw took oiu' leave ol this chanin'iiL; place. l'"or about ; miles tlu" road wa^ a still |>ull, windiuL;' throUL;h thickl)' woodi-d hii;h hills ; and we met crowds oi L',ail\- dressed countix^ pt'o)U-, mostly in jinrickshas, L^oini; to the city, also vi.'L;etable carts ,uul other province, all woikt'd b\' men aaul a lew women. The entire ,'bsenc(." of hoi"ses seems \er\' stranj^c, but the tact of such .1 profuse ]iopnlation. which has to liw, is the cause. ( hn' mill (two i-acli ) worked !_;allantl\', and were lull of tun, apparenll}' enjox'ini;' tlu- Ioul^ run. Alter lo miles we caiiu' to till- town of Ots'.i, on the shoics of I .ake Hiwa, where the Russian Imperial rrince had his luacl cut b)- a policeman's sword. The lake is a liiu' slieet of w.iter .|3 miles lons^, surrounded b\" Volcanic mountains, souu- just like suj^ar loaves, and. lor the mo>l part, di'xoid of \ei_;i'talion. \\ C saw se\eial steanurs, and were toUl the names of t\'o or three- laiL;e towns on the banks of the lake, but tlu- crack-jaw cdm- l.)in,ition ot letters has dep,irti-d from our brains. Ot^u is a town of ■jo.ooo inhabitants, with militar\' barracks and ,:iiH I! ''ij I ^ !' ji ■ * . ; : :•! i ■!'' i;' ii' ill > ? M I ;. if mm, mm Mm ■■■'# 1'^': 1 .'3 It ^.:t ' '• ' '■! t ' if V ' ' . , ,* ff I .: ■;? i- 'V* ■ ',(*-■'■' j; .(: 'hi':"' 9 i' ■:/.'■ J »'. 'i ,-■ 1 f,: 1 1 1i n • 'li^ -. 202 fapaii. parade « ■■ ■':■;. 1 ;.■■.■■ n. with its snow aiul ice j^littcriii;^ in the sun. W'c never saw a mountain Ujok so hi;j,h and iinposinLj, and do not wonder the Japs worsliip it. It is IJ.500 odd feet above the level of the sea, and as it sprin;4s from the seashore, where we were, like a cone, one sees its ma^mificencc and grandeur without detraction from surroundinii and lesser liL;hts, as it stands quite alone. I'or man}' centuries it was an acti\e volcano. The i;"uidc, who hatl been three times on the top, said the summit was a basin about, half a mile across, and could be entered from either side. It is a much more strikinj.^ object than either Mont lilanc, Vesuvius, or Etna, and, in the Southern hemisphere, Mount Cook, 13,000 feet, on account of its isolation. The railway windint:^ round the base of the mountain entered a valley, w'ith Fuji}'ama on one side and the Hakom Mountains on the other. Ascending 1,500 feet, there was a fine plain, rich in trees of all kinds, mosth' in full bloom. At one station we saw an avenue of camellias in flower, and the whole district was full of these trees, not as we know the camellia bushes in con.servatories, but large trees. Descending again, and winding nnmd rocks on the .sea-beach through most picturesque scenery, we came to a small station at 2 o'clock. Securing jinrickshas, we followed the windings of a river for 6 miles until nearing a large sandbank. Leaving our conveyances, we scrambled over, getting slioes full of sand as well as being hot, for it was a hard tug. Coming to the beach, as the tide was down, we walked nearly a mile to the Island of Enoshima, covered with trees. It is 300 feet high, and half a mile across. There is a village with steep streets and rows of shops, where they sell coral and shells, also other marine curiosities. yyv 4 vIj Ja/>afL 207 one, the i^fl.'iss rope sponijc {Ihisaloiiciiia siiboldi), obtained from a reef off the island. .At the head of the street is a temple, anil, after elimbin<^' numbers of steps, we arrived at the top, antl there had one of the finest panoramic \ lews possible. The bay on one side was screened by the miL;"hty Fujizama, and on the other by well-wooded hills with numbers of small islands. Descendint; the face of the island by steps cut out in the rock, we reached the sea, ami then walked 1 00 yards to the mouth of a Ujulj cave, where caniUes were provided to liijht us to the end. In the middle we crossed a bridi^c, and then came to a Shinto shrine, where pilt;Tims worship. \Vc saw many of them, mostly old people and young mothers with their babies. On the rocks were numbers of men-divers, who can stay under water a long time. \Vc threw some coins, and had the show. Returning, the steps were found a little like the treadmill. Resuming our jinrickshas, we followed the beach for 4 miles, and, passing through a long fishing village, came to Kamakura, a beautiful village noted for its temple, the Temple of Hachiman, the God of War. Here the trees arc wonderfully beautiful. Walking a short distance, we came to the grounds of the " Diabutsu," considered the finest work of art in Japan. It is about 50 feet high, and was in a temple which was washed awav about 200 years ago. The great figure is much better seen, and has not suffered by expo- sure. It is marvellous how such a bronze could liave been made without machinery. The following dimensions will 7 in. ; circumference. 97 iw Its colossal size : height, 49 ft. 2in. ; lensfth of face, 8 ft. in. ; width from ear to ear, 17 ft. 9 in. ; length of eye, 3 ft. 11 in, ; length of ear, 6 ft. 6 in. ; length of nose, 3 ft. 9 in. ; w idth of mouth, 3 ft. 2 in. The eyes arc of pure gold, and the bo.ss on the 111 k \\^\ iff m I »fp u U m m i Si ■>^- ■;l, ■ j 1 ■ ■A ■if! ■ ( w HI ■'■ % ti ■ J il I. ■ V V i ■ » ' • .' ■■ If. >'^' is quite in a transition state from Japanese to European ideas. Some twenty years a<^o it was called Yeddo, and was then thorouijhly Japanese. Now the streets are bein^ widened, and every time there is a firt; the G(n-crn- mcnt steps in, and arranges for drainage and wide streets. Just now there is a good opportunity, for a fire burnt down nearly 5,000 hou.scs a fortnight ago, and only left standing about half a dozen ^XQ-'^xvioi depots. In the main street, about two miles long, and as wide as Regent Street, there is a double tramway, which runs a considerable distance. All the city is lighted by electric light, and telegraph and telephone poles seem very plentiful. There are many large piles of buildings in the European style, and new Govern- ment (jffices arc being built a la Westminster. The Emperor is forty years old, stout and short. He has a large head, and a fat face with a thin moustache. He was dres.sed in modern European style, with a military frock coat with decorations, and a top hat. Japanese ladies arc not suited to European costumes, nor will they be until brought up in the same way as Europeans, that is, to sit on chairs from their childhood. Their way of sitting upon the floor with legs and feet underneath makes round backs, and throws the body for- ward, nven when walking or dancing. 14 I! > 1 ■' ^m ■ 'i i' A t 2 lO Jaf^au, i ' 'Mi \ *".T?«hl As is our custom, \vc i^cticrally scrk for lu'i^li -^routnl lo ohl.'iii) ;i \'ii\\ wluii (k'sirint;- to sec ;i cil\', so visited At.iL^o \'ani,i, ;i plateau at the toj) of lOd steep and deep ste|)s for little ])eople. At the summit we found, of course. .1 temple ami a tea-house, surrounded b)' beautiful eherry trees in the fmest and fullest bloom we had ever seen. We obtained a line \iew of the cit\' with its ^rey-njofed houses, and the windini;" river empt\'inLj itself into the extensive ba\-. On the other side was a tlat plain extendinti; for miles. Our " ricks " next took us to sec the ICmpcror's Palace, wjiich is on the site of an old castle surrounded b\- double moats. In the centre is the one-storied Jap Palace enclosed by hii;;!! walU, and approachetl by a l)iidL;c o\er another moat. Outside this is a fine stone buildin;.^ in the modern luu'oi^ean sl\-le, in which the iMnperor mostly now rc>ides. for his sympatliics are l'".uropean. We went to the " Sliiba," a park witli fme trees, and con- taining" the shrines of the ShoLi;uns, an office now defunct. The Mikado was the big gun wlio enjoyed life and pleasure, a descendant of the Sun, and the " Shogun " the working director of all things under the sun. In tliis park arc the shrines of twelve Shoguns. Some of thein arc most magnifi- cent, jjcing made of gold and silver, each, like the temples, having seven separate buildings with courtyards, the inner one containing the remains buried in a sitting posture i 5 feet below the surface. This mortuary temple consists of three parts -an outer oratory, a connecting gallery, and an inner sanctum. l'"ach of these is a blaze of gold colours and elabor- ate arabesque, whichquite dazzlethc eyeswith theirbrilliancy. In all these courts are numbers of magnificent bronze or stone lamps, about lofect higli, the gifts of nobles. In one we counted over 300 ; the others did not appear to contain less. Some of the gates are remarkable, one for its pillars IV Japan. 21 I with dragons twistcti round tluin, ()rii;in:ill)' '^ilt (in'ct a C()aliii<4' of \\'(\ oxide, now niorr oxide ilian L;ilt. Tin- I lol)' 'I'rits in the eourts ;iri' peril et inarxtis, and at this season of full hlooni form a picture of loveliness such as must ninain on the meinoi)' for )-iMrs. I'hc cheny and inaple (Japant-se) in contrast are most striking. There is a tree, said to be tlie on! one in Japan, the "sharaso," where, when the branches touch one another, they 5^row together, and it cannot be seen where the union has taken place. Another tree is most strikiivj;. A camellia and a cedar tree have been united. On some of the branches w'v-^rv Entrance td [iii: >)Iiuink of a Siiocun. arc camellia flowers with cedar leaves. Doubtless the iti- spiration of the great mien's tombs has had an I'ffect. The Uyeno Park is a sort of Regent's Park, and there was a fi'/i' in honour of the cherry. It cont.iins fme trees, a lake, and zoological gardens. Of course we went to sec our friends the monkeys, and also saw a horse caged up. Since our sojourn in Japan we have; not seen a sheep in the country, excepting, like canaries and monkeys, only two in a cage. At the hotels mutton is t|uoted, but it comes, like eggs, from China, 800 miles away. The elephants, as usual, were a great attraction. 1! ^ Hi - m '■:■■■ \\ f . I i . ■' • 'If')!) % !^ ■ >. >' I n ■ if ' ^'Ijl . ■ -1 ■'a ■v.'t^ 2 1 Japan. 'f m •l'.l^,;-. "'■if'.*' ' i ii Wr lallid iip«)ti ;i J;ip;nu'st' lady who lives in a bcaiitiful lunisc, so ckan that it looked (iiiitf new. She has thnr clauj^htcrs and a son. Of conrsc shoes ikvit enter this place, and the only furniture was a flower-stand in the corner of the room, ("usi ions, covered with silU and some c)rfii\ wre offend to us, but wc barbarians cannot stow our le^s, and do not fmd the posture comfortable, wheri'as these nice little Japs sepiat, and look ele;^ant. The eldest d.'iut^hter played on the koto, a flat-strini;'ed instrinnent lyinj^ on the floor, the music resembling the har[). She also san<^ and spoke iMiglish — an accomfjlishcd Jap. The boy also spoke iMii^lish, so we i^ot on well. The last object we visited before returnin;^ was the Museum of Antiquities, works of art, and some manu- factures. The antiquities were not so interesting to us, as wc do not qm'te understand the ancient history of Japan, for in our school days this country was little known. April 24///. — We found a nice service at Trinity Church, a pretty little place connected with the British Legation. In the afternoon, our guide Ito took us to .see the Cherry fete. A g(K)d ride through the city brought us to the river Sumidi, where it is as wide as the Thames at London Bridge. It was all alive with passenger stcamer.s, junks, and all kinds of craft, giving a bu.sy and prosperous appearance. Along the banks of the river is a promenade about 2 miles in length, with an avenue of cherry trees. Here and there are tea-hou.ses for refreshment. It is called Muko- Jima. When the trees are in full bloom a fete is held. Thousands of people assemble there to make merry. All the Japs were in their best, and seemed very happy. There were boat races — in fact, a regatta a la Anglais — Japan. 213 which attracted imuh altititioii. A Mr. Iloiiur, Trisidcnt of thf l^.istcrti Kail\\a\', has some hcaiitiliil i^ardciis, which Were available lor some nt the |)C(i|)K-, wlin ari' iiuimnsi' achnircrs of llowirs and trns. W'c hctaiiu' iiuicii interested ill the ainuseineiits of the Japs, which sei'ined simple and innocent. I'Myini;' kites of the most elaborate- descriptioti.s is much indulged in. some represent! ii'^; youn^ i^irls ruiinin;^, their feet movin;j[ with the aition of ihe wind, dragons with lon;4 tails. nK^nster fish, etc. .Another amusement i.s j.M'ANKSl; C'lllI.DKKN. wearing masks and playing with the baby, which .sccm.s to have an existence in most families. Tea-houses, with the attraction of Jap tea in small egg-shaped cups, and swcct-cakes, meet with many customers there. April 25///, Monday. — We started early, and had a long ride to see many places in this extensive city, one in the midst of some venerable trees in Takanawa, called Sengakugi, or the Spring Hill Temple, renowned for its cemetery, which contains the graves of the 47 Ronins, famous in Japanese history. Having read some particulars of these people, the tale can be told in a few words. m . I|ii; ■ |;i"f| '' 111 * ' ' m ■■:::i| ii-f .1 ^l^V* I i 'i\ ■■ ,11 ■■' 1:' 1 ^\: i:l I; >:4 ■ ' ■ V f I \ ■'.■ ^11 . ;v 2i4 fa pan. Ronin means literally wavc-inan, (itic who is tossed about from pillar to post. It is said a rich man died, leaving; his nioniy in the charL^c of a friend, for the benefit of his son. Before the son ixcame old enoULjh the friend bolted — a not uncommon thinu;' in historj^ When the son Ljrew to man's estate he vowetl to fintl the "friend'' and kill him. Otiiers joined in the se;irch to the number of about lOO, and made a comp.ict to travel all over Japan until the rogue was found. On SLver.il occasions he was discovered. but always killetl his assailants. Years rolled past, until there only remained 46 and their master, when the rogue was found to be living near Yeddo. Tlie whole band was summoned to meet in Yeddo, and it was then decided to surround the house at night and kill the monster. This was carried out. Knowing the law would demand their lives, they decided to die by" Hara Kiri " (disembowelling), considered in Japan a'l honourable death, and still practised. "On the left-hand side of the main court of the temple is a chapel, in which, surmounted by a gilt figure of Kwangin, the Goddess of Mercy, are enshrined the images of the 46 men and their leader or beloved master. The statues are carved in wood, the faces coloured, and the dresses richly lacquered. Some represent venerable men, one said to be J"], with a thin gry beard, (others mere boys. Close to the chapel, at the side ot a path, is a little well of clear water, fenced in and . 'oun I . i'.h ;>. small fernery, over which is an inscription, ..etti-i^, forth that this is the well in which the head of the beloved master was washed. Higher up, shaded by trees, is a neat enclosure, wherein are ranged 48 little tombstones, decked with evergreens and a tribute of water, with incense for the comfort of the departed. Under the 47 lies buried the master. Round ^w fapan. 21 this arc railiuL^s covered witli pieces of i)aper and cards of adiiiirinij; friends wlio visit llie heroes." In llie afternoon, by arranL^enient, we spent 3 hours in the prison, where 1,300 prisoners ;ire kept. The rei;ulations and cleanh'ness would be a credit to any nation. The details of this are i^iven further on. Aptil zGt/i, 'J^/iiSihrv. — We left Tokio by an earl)' train for Xikko, 100 miles' ride throUL;h a beautiful country. The railway winds throui^h hills, followin;jj a river, until at this place we are nearly 2,000 feet above Tokio. Six miles frcMU here we left the train, and took jinrickshas. The road is throuy,h an avenue of cedar trees, not ordinary ones, but immense, without branches until near the top, where the leaves meet. There are several \-illat;es on the road, houses with th.itchcd roofs, people in old-fashioned costumes, pack- horses for i4"oini;' to the mountains. Xolhini;' appears chan ,' l' I ■• ■ V. tnii !1.? nm It ; ^ ••: " p -, ■ •■■ fll " • , 'a' '.« ■' ^ :' m 2l8 (•■;&- I H .p:\ japan. and t;"rccii trees. The Incqufr stands so well that it has onl}- been cUine up once since new. April 2i)f/i, Ih'iday. — i'his Norway of jajxin is must charniin;4 ; for with the bracin<^" air, mountains, ri\crs, and nia;^nificenl trees, such as are only to be seen here, there are nian\' other attractions the combination of all that is beautiful and fresh in natiu'e, with tiot only traces of real works of antiquity, but classic, d productions which have existed for ci-ntury after centurx', and are as perfect to-da\- as the}' were when createil b\' men who tiled iiundreds of \-ears aL^o. Relicjion tliclated these works ; and it appears Japan is credited with takini;" some of its religion from China in the early aLjes. lUiddhism is (jne which must have e.xerted great inlluence in the past tw'o or three centuries, for all over Japan there are undeniable evidences of the devotion of the people to their faith in buildini;" such rcm.u-kable edifices, wliere neither labour nor treasure has been spared in producing;" veritable temples wherein to worship their gods. These sanctuaries are not only to be found at Nikko, and in large cities, but every village has its temple representing one or more of the dozen sects into wdiich Buddhism is now divided. " The approach to a temple is generally through a Torii, which is an opening with a post on each side, with two cross pieces at the top, the higher one being curvetl upwards at the ends. This may be considered the gateway, but it has no gate, \'et forms the entrance to a grove of trees phmted on each side of the pathway leading up to the temple. These groves are frequentl}' half a mile long, comprising cedars and other trees, many of great age. Some of the temples are enclosed in squares with rooms and corridors on three sides, walled in, with a gateway ■^m • !\ W- , S'-, • 1 , »i'"^':- cu ,; 1>''. ■x^^.i m V i fa pa II. 19 in the cnitrc of the frf)nt. On cicli side (if the entrance, in recesses, jjctween cohnnns, a carxed fiL;ur(. cailetl a Nio is placed. The fit^ures are of colossal si/.e, carved in wood, and made as nuisciilar and repellent-lookinij; as possible. It niiL;ht he supposed these fit;ures were intended to be idols, or perhaps de\ils." Tlie real idea is to represent 'guards of the temple, lookiivj; ferocious to keep awa\- intruders from tnterin;j; the holy place. They seem to us something;" Touii ou Entkanc i; 10 a Tkiipli:. like the objects we place in (nir i^ardens to keep the birds away. Soon, however, the birds are seen sittint;" upon the heads chirpini:^, " We won't ;j,() home till morninLj." Still old customs and superstitions prevail. The pecjple think these Xio have power and inlluence ; for if they want some special thin<;" it is written on toui^h rice paper, chewetl up in their mouth, and thrown at (jne of the Xio. Should it stick their wish will be L;ranted ; if not, doubts come upon them. • 1-^ ' 220 fa pan. im 'Vw :hA 'to The plan of inosl of the temples is similar, the leiiLjth beinij divided into three spaces, a centre ba)' and two side ones. In the rear of the centre bay is the principal shrine, where the figure of a Buddha is al\va)'s present, but varies much in size and decorations, as well as surroundings ; but should it be a Shinto temple Huddha is absent, being replaced b)' various emblems. There are. for the most part, a number of steps leading up to a raised floor made of wood. Round upright columns or posts set in granite bases support the framework and roofs, which are prominent objects, projecting 8 to \2 feet, and are thatched or shingled. The sides are enclosed with screen work, and frequcntl}- decorated without and within, black lacquered, gold lacquered, or painted in colours. Red lacquer is used with white lacquer on the columns, all as smooth as glass. Dull red lacquer on the heav\' outside timbers gives a good effect, when surrounded with dark green cryptomcras. In England we might with profit adopt some of these decorations. Many of the Shinto Temples have covered-in platforms for the i)erformances of the sacred Kagusa dance. In the centre of these platforms a gorgeously dressed young female priest is .squatting on her heels, not the high heels used in England. If some money is [)ut on the mat she stands up, and goes through what is supposed to be a religious dance in honour of the gods in general, and then bows down until the forehead touches the ground. Shintoism is the State religion, without, in common with the Church of England in iMigland, State aid ; but the well-to-do classes are Buddhists. The Shintos, wc are told, reverence their forefathers, and do not believe in rewards or punishments hereafter ; in fact, they do not believe in any hereafter. Religion with forms suits the Japs, for they 1 Japan. 22 1 like ceremonies. To see a Jap bow his lie.icl, especially in a temple, puts to shame even a I'^renchmati ; but the bowini^ of the head in the temple is the prayer, with tlic addition of i)lacinL,f a copper on the mat. Various temples have different endowments. Some ave supposed to have the power of c;ivini;' children, others where yount;' married women flock to learn whether their married life will be lastini;' and happy (this is foretold by beinj^ able to tic a lastintij knot upon strips of bamboo, which are huni; up for the purpose), and others where persons about to travel hang up a shoe with an account of the journey tied to it. Most of the day has attain been spent in the temples and 'grounds, and many more might be, as the beauties both of landscape and buildings cannot be appreciated all at once. Great ingenuity has be<'n displayed in laying out the grounds (m the sides of such steep hills, and the labour must have been immense in cutting out a plateau, as well as building with granite splendid flights of steps about 20 feet wide, all having artistic balustrades of solid granite, the whole made to fit with joints like a Chinese puzzle. With age and damp the stonework has become green, being covered with Palm alga.', giving a beautiful colour when the sun shines. At the .same time nothing has suffered deteriora- tion. Each temple is built on a higher level until the seventh is reached, containing the tomb. These are shrouded with huge cedar trees or cryptomcrias, each one presented in former times by nobles, who must have been like flies in summer, for there are thousands of trees. The mausoleum of Tegasu, the first Shogun, is much the finest. Ascending a flight of broad steps with trees on both sides, we come to a granite Torii about 30 feet high, with columns nearly 4 feet in diameter. Passing through, -I ■ m '<, i H \ > i» 'I ''1- I ) if !« i ; »!' ft: m m ^.t. i'.'. !) |; I ' '' M'H- 222 /a/XDf. on ' is .'I fi\c -stdi'irc! paL^oda, a most slrikiiii^ object, paiii. in li\i'ly l)ut harmonious colours. It is said to be over lOO fcL't hi-j,!!. One cannot dispute it; for with so many .steps there was not much incHnation to \enture a climb, so \vc were content to admiie the lifelike painted wood, carvings of the twelve sit^iis of the zodiac round the lower store}-. Paj'inLi," our mone\', and ascendint;" a fli[,dit (jf steps we passed throui;h the L.;ate of the two kin;j,s. The carvins;s ■* ■ 'l;l ' - Pakt oi' A Tkmpli:. adorning the gateway are varied but clever. Here pipes had to be put out, and hats removed ; shoes also were not admitted. In a courtyard raised high above the approach are three handsome buildings arranged in a zig-zag, and used as storehouses for the various paraphernalia. On the frieze of one, under the gat(% are two curious elephants carved in wood, with their joints the wrong way. Near this is a conifer tree, said to have been carried by Tegasu in a pot wherever he went. It has grown well in 250 years, japan. ^23 h^'iiii;' now lOO ft'ct HiLjli. Close to this tree is a red hiiiUlinL;' cont.iiniii;^ the sliible of tlie s.icred pony, supposed to be white ; but it is now piebild, and would sell at a coinitf)' fiii" for thirt)' shillin.:^ ifi S'i^ ■J m-' .^ 9 lii'ii ^£M 226 Japan. of cedars, which, b>' the way, jjocs in a northcrl)- direction for 12 miles, inakiii^ in all o\er 20 miles (){ aveiuic. We met five or six Ininilred Japs on the road, who liad come by the train to visit the tcin])les. It was rainin;4 rather fast, so numbers with a saving knowledge had taken (->{{ or screwed up their Unver garments, and presenteil the appearance of wading on the sands ; but in many cases the inspector would have interfered on grounds of decency. Our railway journey was ratiier long, lasting until 2.30, when we arrived at Yokohama. 1^\' measuring the map \vc estimate there are over 2,000 miles of railways in the island. Parts are owned by the Government, and other parts by private companies. We have travelled over 700 or 800 miles, and never rode upon better made lines or better worked. All the officials are Japs, and every attention is paid to the comfort of the passengers. In each first class carriage there is a stand with cups, teapot, and kettle, and a liberal supply of green tea " free gratis for nothing " ; so that you can have tea-fights all the way, because a fresh supply is provided at each station. For the other classes men promenade the platform, selling for 2 cents (about i^^.) a teapot full of hot tea and a cup, the teapot and cup being included in the purchase. Some of these will find their way to England, purchases having been made for the sake of the teapot and cup. In the middle of the day lunch is sold, or maybe dinner, for 10 cents (3^^.), in a nice clean wooden box, something like a fig box, containing hot rice, fish, rice cake, cabbage, and a pair of chopsticks — we forgot the pickle and bamboo — all included. The "Grand Hotel," Yokohama, is a s^ '^ndid establish- ment on the Bund facing the Bay, said to be 24 miles Japan. 2 27 across. It looks like 4, as the land is so plainly visible. Number 16 was assi;4ne(l tons, a fine room with a "j^rand sra view. Opposite our window are numbers of lari;e steamers from all parts of the world and scjme war vessels, t;ivin'f^ any amount (^f life to the scene. May isf, S/oida)'. — A charmini; morninLj for the first of the merry month (jf May. JAy 2ti(i, Momliiy. — Heavy rain all day put on a damper, but did not keep us in the house, for we visited photographic establishments and other m(jne)'-extracting shops. In the eveninj^, in answer to an invitation, we took jinrickshas in the pcjurinj^' rain, and went some distance to a large club-house. Our host, Mr. N , received us most cordially in our stockings. We then proceeded to a large room, with its only furniture a vase of splendid flowers, and squatted upon a silk cushion. It is wonderful how humanity can get used to anything, for wc managed better. The party was a select one, of about a do/xn ladies and gentlemen, three of whom were Japs. After a few minutes a rice-paper slide was opened to admit a procession of Musmees, who appeared each with a tray, dressed in costumes most bewitching in colour and elegance. The rear was brought up by a very important-looking Musmcc and two serving girls carrying a bronze charcoal-burner, which was placed on the floor under an electric light, one of the many illuminating the room. The import.mt Musmec was nothing less than a professional powder green tea maker, who squatted beside the charcoal fire, which has a name, Kiro. An aisthetic bronze kettle was placed on the charcoal, when the serving girls gave a few waves with their fans to brighten up the fire ; at the same time the dozen Musmees .squatted in a circle r,; <\ u ; 51. I i I' ■■A m " w ■.■■>•■ ■ ;■ I ?) *'' 'it ■: f'i ill Il f ' f j 228 Japan. ■ ''.v-.i-j"! l' ;;.»;;' j round the object of their waiting, looking with placid admiration on their pretty faces. P2ach Musmce had on her tray two elegint lacquer bowls, one turned over the other, and some Japanese cakes on a plate. When the kettle boiled one of these lacquer bowls had some powder grc.n tea placed in it by the professor, then a whisk of elegant construction was u.sed with greai dexterit}', until the bowls were filled with green froth, when the other bowl was used as a cover, anci the Musinec, A Japa.mesf. Tan Dancf.r. with measured steps, went to the firs'- lady, knelt down and placed the tray before her. This was continued until all the guests were served, the Musmee still kneeling before each guest. After that part of the repast was finished the professor and girls retired, then marched in the musicians, three females and a male, a modest-looking man in full evening dress, with bare arms and legs — we could not say short sleeves, for he had not any. The same applied to his pants, , HTi* )l Japan. 229 His occupation was playini;' the fife and drum at the same time for three most elegant dancintj irirls, who went through a programme of fan dances, comic dances, and various gyrations not understandable to our uneducated minds, nevertheless poetical and pretty. Later on this mild-looking man cast aside his fife and drum, and became a dancer, first on his feet, then on his head, sometimes on his elbows and other parts of his body — all so quickly that the guests got into a state of excitement. By way of resting this agile man was offered along with the guests wine, beer, fruit, and sweets, but only accepted a drink. After having passed round five needles stuck in a stick for inspection, he swallowed each needle separately, washing it down with the wine, and finished by eating a cake. The next performance was to swallow about a yard of thread, and another drink to Avash it down. The thread was then slowly and carefully drawn up again, when all five needles were found threaded upon it. This man is the cleverest juggler in Japan, and kept us not only amused, but weak with laughing, until nearly 12 o'clock. Wishing our host good-night, we found our boots and jinrickshas waiting, so hurried home after spending a novel evening. We must not forget to add that on leaving our Musmce presented to each of us, packed in a neat box, all the cakes we had not eaten, as well as our chopsticks. May yd, Tuesday. — Another wet day, which compelled us to find indoor amusements, so wc visited a manufactory of Shippo or cloisonne ware. Perhaps using the word manufactory' is calculated to mislead by suggesting large brick buildings and tall chimneys. The native manu- factories usually consist of a one-storied wood building, about 10 feet wide, with rice-paper slides, mostly open to ■ i \ 1 ■'i ■( in if' if ,, i, n !• ,^>i*' ,^:' \^, "■ -i : t: J. ■ : ,\ \ if ' 't- ■ r -..i ! ■■ } \ '. m ' i I i : 1i r , ■ .. ' ■l J: I I' mm . ' ' -*. ■".L'''.|H i ■. ■'■'■t ■ ■■ .^^rif: '. f, ^ 230 Japan. a pretty little garden with trees, flowers, and a small lake ,• so that the artistic Jap is surrounded by lovely natural objects during his occupation by daylight. This industry is a process of decoration in copper bj- enamelling with the addition of wires. The first stage is the work of the coppersmith, who squats beside his anvil, consisting of a rough log of wood with a bent bar of iron fixed in, having a few inches of polished surface at the end, upon which he shapes his work. Taking a piece of sheet copper, and hammering it into the required form, is not a long process with this genius. In a vase he deftly draws the edges together, and makes a dovetail point, which, when hammered, can scarcely be detected, and never gives way. The next process is per- formed in a primitive furnace just outside, by placing the vase in the charcoal fire, which is blown to a red heat by using a large palm leaf fan until the joint is fused into a solid mass ; then it is taken out, and allowed to cool sufficiently to be hammered bright again, when the next worker receives it. The designer, or real artist, who, with a conception for beautiful forms, takes the vase, with great exactitude of outline draws the delicate and intricate grounding of birds, beasts, flowers, or emblems of Japanese lore, suit'iig them to the design of the plaque or vase with a freedom and rapidity quite astonishing, indicating a trained and well-cultured eye. The vase, bearing thou- sands of lines, is passed on to the next artist, whose business is to cover the whole of these lines with brass and silver wire. He commences by painting over the vase with some transparent cement ; then cuts and bends the wire into curves and serpentine coils to suit the design, and with forceps places each piece in its required Japan. 231 position. After finishing the wire process, requiring even in small pieces days and days to complete, it is then fused in a charcoal burner, welding the wires to the copper body. Next comes the manufacture and mixing of the enamel by the master, who has some secret knowledge of colour- ing, probably handed down in his family from generation to generation, constituting the value of cloisonne. One piece may be worth 5 dollars, and another of equal si/x 500 dollars ; so that it requires quite an education to know the relative value. A thin coating of these enamels is painted with a brush in their required places, and then the piece is again fused ; and coat after coat is applied, and each time fused, some- times as many as twelve times. At Kyoto there is a maker who applies the enamel with a chopstick ; and his work usually brings the highest prices, and is known as "chopstick cloisonne." We saw this at Kyoto, and purchased a specimen. The last process is one of great anxiety — polishing with pieces of stone. Hour after hour the polisher sits rubbing as though his life depended upon the result ; for any little accident spoils the whole, which is a great disappointment, when from 50 to 200 days may have been spent by 6 men, who arc required to accomplish the completion of these gems. There are a few men who can do the whole process, and take from one to two years to produce a single work. They are much sought after, and realise high prices. VVc were able to secure specimens of the six processes, which are most interesting. Wood and ivory carving is a large industry all over Japan, and is learnt by small children, who in this way acquire the culture of the eye and training of the finger, % m ' ' '& M «■ 1 ■■' > , -J. I ,k:-!' 1 A 1: ► ;,%■ lit) pi V f ii ^ iL* «*• illil 'm w ■n^ Ur' \ ■ 232 Japan. which in after years develops into some of the artistic employments so celebrated in Japan. Wc were introduced to Hannanuma, \\ho in his line as an anatomical wood carver is the most skilful in Japan, possibly in the world. He can reproduce any living man in wood, giving an exact likeness and expression. The wood is covered with a kind of lacquer, representing the skin, veins, and colour, and by some process the liair is fixed on. We saw several times a reproduction of himself, which stands just within the door of Messrs. Dcakin & Co. This is so lifelike that people frequently speak to it, and complaints arc not infrequent, when the glass door is fast, that the figure won't open it. Two wonderful works of this arlist, called " The Wrestlers," have been presented to the museum in Sheffield by Mr. Deakin, and arc well worthy of a visit. We have to thank Messrs. Deakin & Co. for very kindly giving us the opportunity of visiting some of the art work- shops in Yokohama, and for their valuable cxplatiations of the various processes adopted when carrying out the productions of these arts. Ivory carving is a fine art, only practised by a few, on account of the scarcity of ivory, and the sum of money required to purchase tusks. Yet those who follow the art are perfect masters ; for some of the specimens are produc- tions of the highest order, commanding the admiration of all who can appreciate form. Some of the finest arc far from being the largest, and judges arc content with a little and good, when pure in outline and unmcchanical. Satsu.ma Ware. i . ; . t ■vi'A ' ■1 i |lir ■'0- i ' ill!- m ^m^ ii: w t^;i^ i ■ i. . "Wi '•1 1. 'i M'',. 'K ■^^i 'r' ; y-U ' \ ^ M Vi' When in Kyoto, we had the opportunity of seeing this wonderful ware being made. The clay is brought from Japan. Satsuma, and sometimes from Korea, or Corca. Its origin, and for many years all the productions, were the property of the Royal Household. The clay is carefully worked by plastic fingers into the elegant and classical designs so marked in this ware ; then it is partially baked, and afterwards receives the decora- tion familiar to admirers of Satsuma. Gold seems to form a considerable portion of the embellishment, combined with rich colours. There seem to be two o))inions as to whether the old or new is the most artistic. Certainly the new has much finer and more elaborate work. The following is a recognised history of this much- .sought-after pottery : — " Some 290 odd years ago the then reigning prince of Satsuma made an invasion upon Corea, and conquered it. He discovered among the Corcans some remarkable potters manufacturing from their common clay, and, re- membering a fine bank of clay in the district of Satsuma, he induced a small colony of these people to go back with him and settle in Japan. The works thus began on this bank of clay. A rich bank it has proved, being the only one of its peculiar kind known." This ware is distinguished by its cream-coloured finely crackled glaze, and paste as dense as ivory. At Kyoto we saw the decoration being worked upon the pieces, and in many instances so minute that magnifying glasses were used ; and we were told that some pieces occupied a man a year or more to complete. May AftJi, Wednesday. — A splendid morning ; warm and pleasant after the damp. We took a carriage with horses, quite a new sensation after so many miles — estimated at 260 — in jinrickshas. Messrs. Cobb & Co., as the name suggests, are English people, who keep livery stables. We ■ : * -i ■■'., 1 V '11 I '0 .'., h ii ft V ;t ■■ If! : m .Hi- ll "',! if mr* '■-?1 m T'; lip-' I'll I ■ . . !! r. 1 i%--r*l ■■}:■: 't-!M sv' Sir II 234 fapan. hiicl a driver and a runner. The business of the latter is to keep the roads clear, and <^ive notice of our cominij b\- tearing his throat with loud shouts and yells, and when going downhill sitting on the end of the pole to prevent the horses getting underneath. We visited some mimic gardens, and saw some splendid flowers and wonderful trees, and came to the conclusion that Japs understood, or it might be said reduce, gardening t(Ki fine art. May i^th, Thursday. — Another fine day, and warm. We spent the morning visiting shops, and found these most attractive, but of course not like European establishments, with platc-gla.ss windows, glass — with the exception of half a dozen English stores — being, for the most part, con- spicuous by its absence. After tiffin we had the carriage and pair and men, and started for a drive along the coast towards Tokio. For miles it seemed one continuous street of villages, with here and there a break of rice fields and vegetable gardens. The people, for the most part, live by fishing ; and the roads are mended with cockle-shells, which, by the way, are very fine. We arrived at a large tea-house with a garden, so alighted and retired to a room fitted up for foreigners with chairs and tables, and overlooking the sea. The hostess was the largest Jap we had seen, being about 5 feet 10 inches, and very handsome. She was most anxious to provide for our wants, or perhaps it might be better to say to tempt us to eat. Starting again, after paying the bill for four, 20 cents (about jd.), we had for some distance two jinrickshas in front of us, the first containing a Jap with a drum, which he boat vigorously, and the second a dressed-up figure, performing all kinds of facial grimaces. This brought Japan. 235 out the inhabitants, who doubtless ^avc us credit for bciniij part of the performance, the result beinL;" threat exciteincnt, and the companionship of dozens of runners. On rcturnint; to the hotel we had an hour before dinner, so went to a bamboo basket and stick manufactory, and saw two or three men carvint^ bamboo canes for walkini^- sticks and ornaments, and of course purchased some. Bamboo is, I think, more used in Japan than China, if that is possible, because it seems to enter into most thint^s, both useful and ornamental, and as an article of food takes no mean place. Birdcages for prisoners' cages, fencing round houses, divisions inside houses, bridges, breakwaters, combs, brushes, conveyances, boats, musical instruments, chairs, tables, fishing-rods, walking-sticks, cooking utensils, plant- pots, masts for junks, and countless other articles are also made from this useful wood. May 6th, Friday. — A pouring wet day for our last in Japan. We chartered jinrickshas, and again visited shops and manufactories, not forgetting arrangements for having all our purcha.ses packed and shipped. Photography has been taken up by the Japs with great success, and there are now half a dozen establishments, employing a great many people taking portraits, etc. ; but the chief business is in views of a country abounding in beautiful scenery and artistic corners. These views are, for the most part, coloured by a process — if known — but little practised in other countries. Some are so cleverly coloured as to make quite a good representation of water- colour painting. Silk is a large production. Everywhere in the country are seen mulberry trees for the feeding of silkworms, the silk being wound by hand from the cocoons. This we did not see, for it was too early in the season ; but we saw the 'm km ii : % ■ fen. m .1 ■ , 5: Ti ■MM ;i'. .; :;■;•*:!;- '< ■■ »i''i ■'. 1!- lii i i;iii •>-H.: \t'i':<^^<' m HI m L>6 Japan. raw silk spun b>' liand by children, who arc tauj^ht to work early, education and work in this country going on simul- tancousl)', many boys at fourteen being good scholars, accomplished mathematicians, and artistic workmen. Silk, for the most part, is woven by hand-loom for merchants, who either sell it in pieces or have it em- broidered ; for the embroidery gives a large amount of employment to men, women, and children, and is, for the m(jst part, of a high-class description, some ranking the highest in the world. In Kyoto much of this work is from the hands of men who sit at frames for sixteen hours, and even longer, per day ; and the stitches are so minute that magnifying- glasses have to be used. Some of these productions are pictures, and look like paintings, while others have the appearance of fine enamels. The representations are trees, blossoms of cherry, wisteria flowers, and animals of all kinds, either singly or combined as pictures, the designs emanating from the brains of the worker, for two alike are seldom seen. The hands and fingers of these workers arc quite pictures, being small, with long taper fingers, and as supple as if there were no bones in them. Perhaps their feet may be the same, but we could not observe them, as they were always sat upon. Japanese porcelain and faience is quite a study, requir- ing more time than a .short visit affords, as it is universally admitted that the Japanese arc the most accomplished and artistic potters in the world, now excelling their original masters, the Chinese. Any one having a knowledge of the various ceramics could find occupation for months in Japan, in visiting the various potteries, some carried on in a room in a garden, others on a larger scale. The specimens of some Japan. ^~ll of these works arc most fascinating, with intricate and beautiful decorations ; but as they would not fold \\\) like silk, or paper, and go into one's pockets, they had, although with many regrets, to be left behind. I'urniturc making is quite a new industry, because the Japs do not use, or own, even a chair in their houses, preferring to sit, or squat, on the floor. When a Jap marries there is no consideration necessary about furnishing the house, a couple of basins, a pan, a kettle, and a charcoal brazier being all that arc required. The marriage cere- mony is not much more difficult, for the man proceeds to the house /'"^^ of his bride, w ho is seated \ I I III Japanese Kitchen. upon a cushion. He sits opposite to her on another mat, and then the father sits between them, and pours out a glass of " Sake," drinks some, and hands it to the bride, who also drinks some, and passes it to the bridegroom, who finishes the beverage, and this concludes the ceremony. If, however, the lady has changed her mind, she drinks the whole, and passes the empty glass wrong side up. W'e learnt this not from personal experience, but from our guide's. % \l\ - f r,- ''I iihi 1' i';»! m mm ;■■■, V-.1 ;.^i' Wi !,♦« J-.., ■f,'! JH' ■■■' ^^^^ii if ^3« Japan. Marriage is not so binilini; as in some other countries, because if the w ife does not love, honour, and obey, and otherwise beliave herself, the husband can proclaim lur, and be free from further responsibility. The wife, as a mark of devotion, blackens her teeth, and pulls out her eyebrows and ' /clashes, which procecdint; disfit^ures her very much ; the more so, as the stain used for blackening her teeth acetate of iron, made by ])Utting iron into vineijar — has such an astrini^cnt effect upon the lips that the mouth is (juite distorted. Returning to the furniture, cabinets, many of the most elaborate description, seem to have taken the attention of Japanese workmen, who no doubt at first commenced modestly enough. Yet there is not much to complain of, for a nice cabinet may be bought for 50 dollars, and baby cabinets for 30. The higher-priced ones arc combinations of various Japanese arts and industries, lacquer work, with enrichments of gold forming the body, with gold lacquer, carved ivory, and mother-of-pearl as ornaments. W'c saw one Sio.ooo in price, which was a most wonderful and artistic work, made for the Chicago Exhibition. Lacquer is obtained from a tree which grows all over Japan (on the same principle as turpentine). RJias vcnii- cifcra is the botanical name. After the juice has been obtained, it is strained and cleaned, and various chemicals added, to produce the required colours. The wood used for the foundation is very light, and called " Hinoki," and is easily worked into any required form. Then the joints are well smoothed and filled with rice glue, and the whole coated with common lacquer, then set aside for a few days to dry. Common work is generally put into an oven and baked. The next process is to cover the whole with \.\\o evenly spread coats of lacquer, mixed with fine ochre r\: H 8" Japan. 239 powder, so as to i^ct an even snicjoth-Ljrainecl surface for subseciuent work. When Iiard, this is rubbed down with pumice stone ; in fine work several repetitions of this process take phice, until the article is reaily for further treatment. Two coats more of fine lacquer are carefully applied, and when not quite hard the designs are impressed — leaves, flowers, birds, animals, mother-of-pearl, powdered e'^g-shcll, crystals of L;old, silver, copper, and other metals in a vi'.ricty of ways, givin;^ wonderful effects. The most expensive is gold lacquer, which resembles solid gold except in weight. Over these decorations transparent lacquers arc spread and rubbetl down with " deer-horn ashes," reduced to an impalpable powder, until the surface resembles glass, through which is reflected the various decorations. A most effective and striking decoration is one above the surface, combined with the others — carved ivory, say the face and head of a man or woman, and the clothes made of carved mother-of-pearl, with trees and foliage in enamel. These are frequently quite works of high art, and set with jewels in various parts of the costume, and diamond eyes. Of course with such plastic materials and artistic workers, there is not any limit to the kinds of production as long as the trees flourish, if a demand sets in from other countries. The lacquer in its early stages is most poisonous, and requires great care ; but this will not deter the Japs if money can be got out of it. As soon as you land in Japan, bronze work of every description strikes your eye, and in the hotels are handsome pieces for decoration, holding probably a large bunch of cherry or peach blossom. Going along the streets, you see in the shops water-filters made of bronze, with a cup of the n^' <... ■I I V ■ I.'j'ij r^-i.:^:-:' :t: I - i I Ft Ire "i' Sit-* i • I V«"i 240 ./''A'//- sanu', lodkiiv^f most iinitiii'r;' on ;i hot (la\' ; >'ct prudcticc says, Don't be ti'inptcd, for in that cup ina)' lie the t;enns of t}phoi(l ; so triuli;e j-ou on, and observe at the next cornc r of th<' street a bronze statue bearing; all the hues of old at^e ; or nia\'be \'ou are tempted into one of the hunilreds of temples, where are numbers of bronze lamps 10 feet hi^h, and futures JO feet. To naine the man\- forms in whieli these bronze inetal workers have manifested their i^eniiis woultl require a five-volume book ; but it appears evitient that where Western countries use iron these people have in the past adopted bronze. Now all these creations in metal are as various in qualit\- and style as in value, and many have been made to suit the place and purpose for wliich they are used. There is a .style and character in all the bronzes, and two exactlx' alike are seldom seen ; for bronzes in Japan are not like those of many countries — mere castint^s from a mould which can be repeated at pleasure. The Japanese modeller first gets the desired shape made in clay — sa}' a vase — then he makes his desi'^ns for decorations, all of wax, which he lays upon the clay model with threat skill, — dragons witli snaky tails, peacocks, or men doing battle, or whatever may come from his innermost artistic brain. When carving this wax the Jap looks in his seventh heaven, and his face is radiant with the delight of the coming production. The next process is to fill in this wax with soft clay, requiring great care to be sure his work will be all repre- sented. When finished, the whole looks a mis-shapen lump^ giving no evidence of the brain-work within. As sooji as hard enough to handle the lump is held to the fire, which hardens the clay and melts the wax, leaving it hollow instead. Into this hollow the molten bronze is poured, and when cool the outer clay is broken off and the inner Japan. 241 dii'^' (lilt, K'aviiiL;' a bioiizi- vase read)' for finishin;^'. Tiiis proCL'ss ri'(|uiri.'s L;rfat skill, as all the finest work is cut out with a hammer aiui chisels, and is fiiiall>' cojourid with chemicals to produce llu' toiU' re(|uirtil. We iiuiuired as lo tlu nature of the metal used, hut found each maktr has his own formula. Copper is tin foundation, allowtl with i;()kl, silver, and arsenic in \arious proportions. I<"ine L;()ld hron/e is said to he 65 / ^ copper, 25 ' /^ K'old, and 10^ .silver. May -jth, Satiifday. — We rose earl\', ami pre|)ari'd to start at 9 o'clock. It was (juite a si;j;ht to see about t'lft)' people teariiiL;' aloiiL; the bund on a I'nu' Ma\' mornin;4 in jinrickshas, our la-;t ride in these "man-power carriages," certainl)- a wonderful institution, which hasexistetl in Ja|)aii f(jr a Ioiil;' period. It is said to have oris^inated in L;i\inL;' employment to a lan^e surplus i)opulation, and the absence of beasts of burden or horses, owin;^ t(j there beiiv.;' little or no L;rass in the countrx, as ever)- available yartl is culti\ate' % 4 14 m'.i ■: -v. . ••.■. mm ); I I:' •I n . ■J t n 4^ fapati. a(!(>i)l iiiiiiu-di.itcl)" systems, iiistitutioiis, aiul tr.ulcs \\licn Cdiuinrcd of their utilit>", (luieklx' fuuliiiL;' out whether it will profit them ; but not so witli reh'L.non and hoiiu" Ule. 'here an- all kinds of missions lMit;iish, l'"rench, and .American. Anuricans are placed last, alth()Ui;"h they do the most ; hut that most is ch'sap])ointin>^', exci'])t in L;ivinL;' medical aid to the sufferin;^ ;ni(l sick, who, like the Chinese, find I'.uropean ])hysic is on a hi'tter plan. It would seem that both Chinese and laps are nmch on the same footiui;' as convi'rted Je\\s. Most trades in Jajian where men are emplo>-ed work under the direction of a L^uild, haxins^ officers who direct, dictate, and bo_\'Ci)tt, much to the men's (lisad\antaL;('. The sx'stem must be co])ied from this country. I low e\-er. the Japs are struij,i;lini4' to break it down, for the\' see the folly of paN'iuLi,' a;j,itators. When at Tokio wo applied for permission to x'isit the lari;'e prison, and the head of the pdice departnu-nt kindlx' sent us an interpi'cter and a letter to the L;o\-ernor to show us everx'thini;', and impart all the information wo miL;ht sc"ek. Takiii;.' jinrickshas for about six nu'les throut^h tin cit\', we came ni\ar tlie mouth of the river, and embarked on a boat, or sami)an, and went to an island covered with buildinL;s some acres in extent. Landini; at a Iodide, we entend throut;li ponderous-lookint;' spates, which on examination proved to be bamboo. We were ushered into a lart;"e room, where the introduction ceremonx" took place. 'i"hc L^overnor and his lieutenant bowed until their noses nearly touched the ground. Then commiMiced tlu' inspection. We walked across an open space to the first buildini;, which contained the culinar\- department. ICverx'- Ihinii; was perfectly clean and orderly. Japan. '1 111' rations arc- L^ixcn in two meals, (xci'pt w lu re \cr\- hard lahour is iinpuscd, and consist of abont a ponnd and a liali ol rice and bark)- jjoilcd until it forms a coherent mass, and is ])ut into a mould, and, when cold, turned out. '1 his is accom])anii'd In- slices of fish, sometime^ cooked, at others raw, according;- to tlu' kintl offish, and a cupful of sour ])ickle made of seaweed. Meals ari' at S and 5. The lu xt place was the first series of punishments with hard labour. ("la\- is broULiht in bars^es from the mainland, and carried in baskets In- prisoners to a \-ard covered in with bamboo; here it is wetted and walked upon imtil (juite .soit and thoroULihl}- mixed — a process in ]Mi_L;iand performed In- pui;' mills. About 450 men were eni^ai^ed in this hard work, for the}- perspired freel>-. When in a proper condition, the cla)' was carrii-d in baskets to a buildini;-, and made into bricks in the usual wa>-, and burnt. 'I hese bricks are for buildin;4 a new L;aol on the luiropt-an silent s}-stem. '1 he second section was a machine manufactor_\- for makini;- fire-enL;ines, |)um[)s, etc., ever}- department from castin-- to finishiiii;. The thiril was the manufacture of prison clothini;- from the wool and cotton in the raw state', to L';armeiits read}- for wearing;-. iM-erx-thinj^- is (\yvO^ brij^ht lerra-cotla. The imderclothini; for the police is also made here, as well as that for the Ami}- and the Xavy. In another di'[)artment lun-opean shoes are made for the police and forces. Almost evir}- trade is carried on in separate buildins^s, and there is a fine art cUpartment, where cloisonne and Satsuma are made, and also decorative ])otter\-. Some of the pic-ces were ver}- fine, ami it suLii^-ested an expression of pity that such artists should be in prison. 'I'lu- reply was, that most of them had been tauL^ht in prison. Another most intiM-estiiiL;- department was the manufacture of I ^i| «' 1.'.,' J t: v!' ! '(> (t ,.. '•■41 'M nt "r. lilt r- nf' E? hi) "'• ill 1 !44 Japmi. bamboo ;uul walkinj^' sticks, also unibrclla ami parasol sticks for export. Ill an isolated place are a number of boxes about 6 feet scpiarc, and about 4 feet from the i^round, with onl\- a few airholes and a trapdcjor for puttini;" in a little food. Refractories are relei;"ated to a sojourn in one of these for a few days and ni^^hts, which, combined with bean crushinc(, tames the most desperate. Our next visit was to the dormitory department, railed round with 10 feet bamboos. In the first buildins^' was the barber's shop, where every priscjiier is shaved twice a week with a razor, but not any lather— a dr\' shave- not pleasant on a cold mornint;', or a hot one either ; but we suppose, like the eels, they t;et used to it. In the next buildinsj; are the baths, used by the prisoners everx' da\' bctw'cen 4 and 6. Work is finished at 4, shave, bath, and sup])er completed before 6, when bed is soui:^ht in the next building', a large one, about 100 y.irds long and 30 feet w ide. Instead of windows arc " Louvre openings," as also in the roof. This building is filled with bamboo cages 12 feet by 18 feet, and in each cage 18 prisoners sleep on mats made of bamboo, 6 feet by 2 feet, and have a rug for covering. Here the}- rcm.ain until 5 o'clock in the morning. This i)rison can accommodate 2,000, but the nuinber was 1,300 odd, and the terms of imprisonment from a month to the end of life, l^-ery department was well and strictl}' carried out, and with good discipline, even in the absence of the separate sx'stem. We understood it was .self-su[)porting. We then visited a separate department, where 120 men, dressed in blue, were busil}' engaged in making — of all things in the world — "toothpicks"! These men are not criminals, but per.sons who have not any means of existence. 'fc>) Japan. 245 and, wlicn found bct^^i^in;^, arc taken in charL;c by the pcjlice, and sent t(j this i)lace. The work is paid for by results, and eacli man lias credit i;"iven for his productions, say from ic/. to 3^^. per day. When the amount is sufficient, or if his friends will keep him, he is discharged. The question was asked: "Who uses the toothpicks?" there beint;- sufficient to provide a nation. The reply was that the}' were nearly all exported to foreii;n countries. Every town has one of these establishments, consequentl}' the production must be considerable. This useful article is made from the cuttint;s ol cinnamon trees, and each one has a i)iece of bark upon it. This system of providinij work for the indiL;"ent is the same as that in Bavaria, and certainly keeps the country free from begL;ars. The police arc dressed in luu'opean style, with dark- L^rcen tunic and trousers, a belt with a sword, and the whole crowned with a naval caj). To our ideas these little men, who seldom exceed 5 feet, seem absurd for police- men ; but ;is they, for the most part, have t(j operate upon men of equal size, and with the advantage of a sword, no doubt the\- are useful. It is quite a joke when an attempt is made upon European sailors ; as the police Wi^i^ co'-d for securing their prisoner, fa.ilure is i!,enerally the result. To return from our divers^ence, we arrived at the lanclini;-stage, and went on bcxird a steam launch, which soon took us alongside our fine ship, Tlic Oc'uuiic, 4,500 tons, one of the White Star Line. The Bay is beautiful with its islands and \illaL;es, and the sun shone on the water like a mirror. The mountains on both sides, some snow-capped, i^ave an idea of sailing;" up an Italian lake, the mii;"hty Eujiyama asserliuL;' itself, and looking; as thouL;h it bek)ni;"ed to the hea\ens rather than to the earth. y-vm m ! f. ^ :f1 m i'-^ '\* 1 i 1' 7' i ' \ 1 . ■ i Im m ■m mm M - 1 1 246 Japan. After sailiiiL;" throiis^li the- narrow month of the ba\-, our course was aloiii;' the northern coast. We passed the islands of Oshima, or Sc:\en Isles of Iza. One of these is Nolcanic, anti alwaxs sendinL;' forth smoke. It is a ;j;ood landmark for sailors. Sometimes there are eruptions ; but one wa.s not turned on for us. All da\- we passed strini;s of villages nestling at the foot of mountains, where there- must be thousands of jjopulation, who li\e in some \\a}' or other. Fishing, no doubt, is a large industry, for a great quantity of salt and dried fish is exported. As evening came on, we lost sight of land and Japan, where we had spent a most delightful month, among the politest and most interesting people in the workl. Our great hope is to be permitted (Mice more to make another visit, when w c .shall seek the .services, through that useful institution, the "Guild of Guides," cjf M. Ito, who by his bright and interesting descriptions of people, places, and customs, has contributed so much to our enjoyment ; and by his kindness and attention led us to regard him as a " guide, philosopher, and friend." A valu- able adjunct is Murray's Handbook, making travelling c[uite easy. May '^th, S/niday. — Settled down once again to ship life. We find this the most comfortable steamer we have sailed in. :. W '^^■ m i $ ■ ^ •: , it. m iii III. u Xll. I? mm, fill CALIFORNIA. ' 1 *' \m ^fi !;; iM J? ■«:„ ■Ml :j; m m m I 4 li ^ "Vi* • si ) I I CHAPTER XII. If 1 ■fl i ' ii 'a it '■ I'i \ 1 iJ \ : 1 D -:| '^';j H: ,.( '■''■:: [^ 'iV:^ I U I: If-:'; 1 ' ' 1 *. ■ , i l:'''\ '■i Ilj CALIFORNIA. yjy .] K 9///, Mo!iday.~\ fine day, but nothing;- particular t^oiiiL;- on, so had an opportunity of Icann'nL;- some- thing of our course to San Francisco. It is a ch'stance of 4,525 miles by the i^reat north circle, which is shorter than i^oini;- straii^ht across, and what seems quite a paradox is steering; north-east to ^et to the west. May lot/i, Tuesday. — Nothing particular to note during the day. Ship making good way, and sea moderate until 4 o'clock, when everybody was startled by the engines stopping. The ship began to roll, so sails were set. It was .soon discovered that a connecting-rod had broken. Here we arc a thousantl miles from land in the midst of a vast ocean, and, of course, where ships are never met ; there is nothing around but sea, not a sound, nor a bird,— e\-en the fishes seem to ha\e deserted us. Most of the passengers do not find the motion of the ship pleasant ; it somehow seems to affect their appetites. Perhaps it is fear. May wth, IVcduc.sday. — At 7 this morning the engines were repaired, and the ship started again after a delay of -'•19 u I' *sR if *i 1 250 Call lorn id. Wai m ■V '■ •Ni ■ iula • 15 hours. Mail)- of the passciiLieTs had passed a hatl iiiijlit. for the roll of the ship was uncomfortable. We never had a better. May \2f/t, 'riiiirsdav. — The weather is much colder, and the da)' h;is been unpleasant with wind, rain, and snow. GoiuL; north is a iiad s^ame for pleasure, ami requires all the resources of our boxes to keej) our trunks warm — a decided chanL;e from the (."oral Sea. May \}^tli, Friday. — The weather is improvetl, but it is cold, temperature 3S . Ship sailini;' well. Xothint;' to see. In the midtUe of dinner the electric lii;ht p()i)i)ed out, and we were like Moses when the candle went out. Candles were produced ; l)Ut for a time it was a kind of gropiti;4 li'jjht. It was found that the cylinder of the electric eiij^'iiie had biu'st. So no more electric lii^ht at present. May \^t/i, Satiin/ay. — About 6 o'clock this morning we crossed the 184 , or Meridian, where it is supposed Neptune visits the ships. If he called, our cabin was passed by, for notiiiiit;" of note happened. May 14//', Saturday the .SVnv/c/.— Xatura'h', it will be thouL;"ht this is a mistake ; but not so, for all vessels passing the 1 84 repeat the day, because, for some time, we have had only 23^ hours in each day, now we pick it all up by having this extra day. The effects are peculiar, for this year we shall have 367 days, and in the fortnight 4 Saturdays. A gentleman tells us he passed on Christmas Day, and the effect was two Christmas Days with two plum-puddings. May 1 5/"//, Sunday. — The weather this morning was beautiful, but cold ; for now we have got to the top of the circle, and are 48*6 north. This evening we had the electric light again, the engineers having worked night and day to repair the damage. XSX'. m Califoniia. 2^1 May \()tli, Mividay. — Ship sailiiij^' well. AiiuiSLinciUs goiii!; on ;is usual. About 5 o'clock \vc .saw in the distance a scliooner Li,oin;4 .scal-fi.shinL;, a most unusual ihint;", for ships are sekloni seen in this course. Mixy \'////, /'//t\u/(iy.-A fresh bree/.e, and all sails set, which makes the ship lively. J/irr iS///, ll\'(///i-sc/(iy. — A pourint;" wet day, with wind, and some movement in tlie ship. In the exeniiiL;' Mrs. S , M.U., i;"ave an address upon 'rheoso[)h\', antl her journey to India to investigate this new system of reliL;ion, which, in her mind and experience, is a failure. It was an able and clear e.\positi(jn. J/cry Kj///, 'J'h/iisday.—A beautiful da\-, w ith a calm sea. In the afternoon a full-rigged ship wa> passed, and two whales were seen. May 20th, hriday. — A most loveh' da.}-, antl the games were all finished up. M\er\-bod}' seems to liave his or her mind on packing and getting ready for the inciuisitoriai customs. Even parsons seem to enjoy a little contraband. May 2\st, Saturday. — About daybreak -4 o'clock —we took up the pihjt, being near land. Most people were up, for there was such a noise all night, sleep was impossible. At 5 the sun ro.se right in the Golden Gate, as if to show us the way in. The high hills were all " tipjicd with gold," and we could not have seen this notable harbour under more favourable circumstances. A well-coloured sun in a cloudless sky, the moon high up, and as bright as a frosty night. At 6 o'clock coffee was served, tasting good with the sharp morning air, and the picnic was honoured with pretty faces, which had not seen the sun rise for a long time. About 7 o'clock, after sundry blowings of the siren, the ;*tt 'r I '■■■\ ' ■ 1 li tl'-i J 11. ■' .,11'' ! ,;v.j 1 '!i i:i|ii 'k,^*, fi ', m mm Mm Y'i •.n.v ' a ^M ! I ill fc II \4ixM 252 Califoniia. f|u;ii";iiilinr oniccrs ;iiri\c'cl, when llir iisu.il haiuliiiLJ (i\-ii- ol ])a])rrs ami coiisultalions took place. They did not take imuli account of the first-class passmi^ers, but directed their atUntioii to the Japs and C'hinese. I'irsl ihi' ("hinest' ladies antl female children were paradeil, counted, and examined — 10 ladies and 13 children ; but for some time the number could not be made to atjjree ; so they were countetl ()\er and over aj^ain, and a few hard WDrds passed, h'ortunately, these Celestial ladies ditl not imderstand. L'ltimately, it was found that oni: child was a boy, and the ship's doctor had made a mistake ! Doctors i;enerally declare with some precision the sex an individual has to ackno\vIedL;e throUL;h life. Of course there must be exceptions to pro\e the rule. The next performance was to par.ule the Jap ladies. The\' numbered 15, and passetl muster in a much more creditable stvle than the Chinese, two (jr three of whom had such sm.ill feet that they could not stand without assistance — one tall wc^nan especially, who was a great swell, anil the wife of a rich merchant. Then came the Jap men, 122 in number. They looked like a lot of fat schoolboys, being dressed in ICuropean costume, and, for the most part, much under 5 feet in height. The examination of the Chinamen lasted much longer, for each man was passed through a rope and inspected, and, as there were 108, it lasted some time. The chief officer tokl me afterwards that more than one half would be taken back in the ship, as they did not pass. The reason we could not find out ; but the poor wretches would have to remain on the ship till June 3rd, and then be taken back to China, which would occupy a month more. These Japs and Chinese consumed on the voyage each day an average of 12 cwt. of rice, for they never eat bread. j: -1:, !. Ml i'Mi if', -.v." V, ..... j:Ij% » M ■■ »1 l7 i ' » 'Vl'iv'Vf' "; -;."V' ■ I' 1 ' i { ( - . t':: :.»,-) .?: • - '<■ ► ■f 'LI I !C r''5 Vlt 1',: ^S^l* m I C 'alifoniia. ."^.■^ AftiT bn;ikl';isl tin- Cusiom I l.iiisc olVucrs >;il in llu' siildon t(i swi'.ir I'ach passcni^iT l■.-.. 1 !,: •i: hi J.. ■'■',;.'■■ H^ and the whole cil)- is crossed and rccrosscil with these cars, L;()inij; every few minutes, for 5 cents. The)' art' inucli h'kc switchback raihvays, for San I'rancisco is not a " cit\' of se\'en hills," nor )'et of seventeen. I low nian_\' hills there are iX'ciuires more than our limited experience to know; but one tliiiiL!," is cjuite sure, that in a tram ride you have no sooner crossed one hill than another presents itsi'lf \Vi- mounted a red car, and proceeded up .Monti^omer}- Street — the head street of the city — vcr\' wide, and Idled with lare;e shops, and immense plate-L;iass windows, and crowded with wt'U-dressed [)eople. l'"ollowinL;" street after street, and throu;_ih residential subm^bs, we came to the entrance of the "Golden Gate Park" on the top of ;i hiL;h hill. Ouittiivj; the tram, wc walked in the park, which is beautifully laid out with liroad walks and ornamental watcr.s. May 22i/d, Siiiu/dV — -We went to the outside of the city '~\' tram to Irtro I'oint and seal rocks, which form one side of the Golden (jate. It is a fine bluff licadland with several cone-shaped rocks detached from the main- land. 1 [ere seals are preserved b}' the authorities, and there are simplx' hundreds of them sw immini;" in the water, or basking on the rocks. Some seemed tpiite black, whilst others are of fawn colour, ami, for the most i)art, of larLje size, inan\" three or four times lari;er than an\' we have seen before. The lu-adland is kiid out as a p;irk and crarden bv a L'entleman, who allows the public to walk and drive throui;"h. It is most tastefull)' ilone witli jialms, statuary, shrubs, Howers, monkex-s, bears, swans, anil other interesting objects. After leaving California, we ha\e "fixed up'' to go to Alaska to see the midnight sun, occupxing a fortnight on the sea. ' m I in 11 Call forjii J. 257 to •in May 2},/i/. -\\\ found Sin I-'ranci^co ;i hii;' c\\.y to L;(t over, h;i\-i!i;_;- about ,^oo,0::)0 inhabit. ints, and in ("hina Town ovvv -jcooo. Thr population is a niixlurc ol lacr-, i;'atlK'i'c(l Li)i;ollu'r in llu' la-^t 50 x'rars or less, oi cour>c" attracted in the days of the j^'old fever. ]\Ian\' of the nu'n, especiall)' the youni;er ones, are fine-lookinL;" fellows, and the females ha\-e a t_\'[)e of be;iut\' similar to tin- ladies of Cork, who l)()ast dark-blue e\'es and black hair. They ina}' have line fiL!,ures, but we cannot '>;i\'e them credit for taste in dress, bein;4 a little overdone, and the fashion ot I01V4 dresses is well carried out, even to chiklren. It is quite comical to see four or five years okl ones u th dresses to the t:jround, and the little monkeys havin'^' to hold them up when walkin<^. Truly the demon of fashion prevails here. Alakin;^' up some small luL;"i;"a;4e, we started at 5 o'clock for a journey to the world-famed N'osemite V^alley, and to have our first e.\perience in ("alifiirni 11 travelling. We had to cross the harbour to a town nained Oaklands, with about lJ,ooo inhabitants. 'l"he st;'.tion is like a railway station ticket office, and large waiting- rooms, one marked " liroad Gauge," the other " Narrow ' ; and as our path w.is the broatl one, we remained in that saloon until nearl\' 1,000 peo[)le collected. /\t 3 o'clock the doors were thrown open, and we walketl into what might have been a 'arge house with two stories, and plenty of glass windows. This was the ferry boat jWci'ar/,', w ith paddles over 30 feet in di;uncter, and said to be one of the two largest in the workl. .Arri\ing at Oaklands 1 5 miles), we found an inumnse railway station, with half a dozen long trains of Tullman cars ready to start. We were u.shercd into a " sleeper," 20 of us expecting a good night's rest, and to find oiu'se'ves 280 miles awa\' in the morning. '7 1' '", ■•H W W >•* (■'■Si**.: m '% IS ■i iJl: H ■:::,]•;■■! ■r r' 2s8 California. May 24//!, Tuesday. — Wc cnj()\-cd our '"sleeper" wry much, for after suppiiv^ at a roadside station our beds were made up, and the 20 retired beliind tlieir curtains and went to bed. About 12 o'clock the "sleeper" and sleepers were sluuited at Rarenda, remaining" quiet until it wns time to make our toilets. The atmcjspherc was splendid- - warm, genial, refreshing, and full of sunshine, and the grain crops for miles were of that beautiful rich yellow always observable just before ripeness. A icw fields were cut, while others were filled with large haycocks, and the " cattle on a thousand hills " give such a picture of agricultural wealth as we had never seen before. At Raymond station wc left the train about 7 o'clock, and adjourned to a roadside hotel, built of wood, where breakfast was ready. It was quite refreshing to see our American friends bolt the beef and mutton ; for in this country, although the people arc blessed with good-looking- teeth, it is absolutely rude to masticate \-our food. Only cows do that. After breakfast we all set out in American coaches, with 4 horses, and 1 1 passengers — 5 carriages in all. The first part of the way was through a fine valley with many trees and cattle. We then came to the foot of ;i mountain clothed with huge trees. Some were pine, others Californian red wood. The road became very narrow and spiral, for it wound round and twisted about until we got up over 3,000 feet, then began a descent into a valley, which seemed crammed full of trees and foliage. Changing horses every 6 or 7 miles, we reached at 2 o'clock (irant Springs, where dinner was provided. The hotel is large, and stuck in the side of a hill, commanding fine views. It appears visitors are attracted to this isolated ^pot by a sulphur spring, which cures cverythii but lOoden legs. We can now understand why these people got hich :iock cl is fine ;itcd but jople Califoniia. 259 bolted tlie t{)U;4h beef, because n'diiiL^ in a coach with leatlier .s[)riii;4-; for six hours and a half, and over what can hardly be c died a. road, and is here named a triiil, would digest horse nails or old soles. It was decidedl>- a good dinner — plain, sensible fijod : tough mutton and roasted " ro(jster," fcjUowed b)- apple pie — and such apple pie ! — made in a soup plate, and a helping that would have stunned a plough-boy. Resuming our scats, another ascent was begun over a trail much lik-e our New Zealand experiences, where sometimes it was !,O0O feet or more sheer down, and the road only sufficiently wide for one coach, with the wheels frequently only a few inches from the edge ; but in this it differed from Xew Zealand, where the drivers gallop and the coach swings, in that here we went careful!;/, and the horses rested in steep places very often, so that our speed sometimes was onl\- about 1 mile an hour. About 5.30 we reached the summit, 5,700 feet, passing snow and ice. This is about 1,000 feet higher than any mountain in Great Britain. Fancy driving a coach over Ben Nevis! The views were grand, and the trees something to be remembered. The descent of 2,000 feet was a nerve-trier, with the swinging of the coach, and the .screeching of the brakes, to say nothing of the jolting, and the sharp turns ; yet it was inxigorating, and astonishing to sec so many wonderful sight.s. The setting sun gave lovely colour through the trees, and grand cloud effects. At 8.30 we pulled up in front of a fine hotel at Wawona, said to be a village consisting of the hotel and a photographic shop. The house was full, so we had quarters in a wooden building with 20 doors, ea^' door representing a bedroom. May 25///, Wednesday. — At 7 o'clock we were in our places on the coach, and started with a call, " All aboard? " I %■ ''^^ ■ )■■■ '! i i -i., .•\ \ 'ill Up ijl 4Mi ■:-->' ■t.'^ 1^ If; i ■ P : !•: i ■; . ■■' ! UK- ■W. J 60 Calijoruia. ;mi(1, witlioiit tlu' usual crack of tlic wliip, went away at a ;.;()(k1 [)acc, drawn by 4 lar;j;i' mules. Soon an ascent was bci^iin with a. worse trail than yesterda}', but the nuiks stuck to their work until others took their places, and drai;L;"ed away at the coach. The trees and the \iews became much finer until the summit was reached. 5,(^00 feet. Usual I\' it is not difficult to realise when such a desirable end has been accomplished ; but here, in thc' .Sierra Neva.da, it was painted up in lar;j;e letters, so w. could have no doubt. It appears this is called " IIun;_;ry Mouiitain," a t^ood name for it, as wc all found with tlu sharp air we were ready, except perhaps those who Ijolted " !.;ap stoppers." The descent was continued until we rea.ched Inspiration Point, tlie first \iew of the celebrated Vo.semite X'.ille}', which on each side i> wa.Ued in b\ j)cri)endicular cleft rocks from 3,000 to 5,000 feet hij^li, and Iookin;j[ as if il would be almost imptjssible that a coacli and horses could fnid a wa_\' throu;j;h it. Ik'low us w;is the fast-running river Alerced, carrying away the water from the numberless waterfalls. Its banks were clothed w itli liugc trees and foliage shrubs — a most wonderful picture, and the view awe-inspiring over that rock, from wliich nearly the whole length of the valley can be seen. It has been said that " it is not easy to describe in words the impression wliicli great objects make U})on us." This is true : we can only sa\' how wonderful are tlie works of God. Then we are struck b\' the suggestion of the cause of such a natural curiosit}'. To think of a ridge of granite mountains from 5,250 feet to 9,900 feet .above sea level being .split by .some convulsion of natin^e about 2,000 feet, leaving a valley less than a mile wide, with ix'rpendicular sides, and a river running on the floor of the valley, entirely fed by waterfalls, causes us to Wf;;y1cr when such an awful Caiifoniia. 261 convulsion of nature took place. Our intcllii^'ent coachman told us the valle}- was first discovered hy white men in 1851, when the Mariposa soldiers went to fi;^ht the marauding;" Indians, wh(j frequently made raids upon farming" districts, and when followed suddenly disap[)eared. Major Savaj^e met a friendly Indian who "peached," and told of the deep rocky valley on the Merced. A drive of 4 miles, shaded by monster trees and those of lesser size — some of ;j,"reat beaut\-, one especially, the doL;-tree, in full bloom, with white flowers, like clematis, and the air perfumed with the scent from the .spruce and ba\- trees — brouL;ht us, about 2.30, to the Stoneman House, ;i lary,c wooden hotel with verandahs. The forest has been p.'u'tl\' cleared, leaving' clumps of trees, which were measured this week, and the average height was found to be 210 feet. Just beyond is the great Yosemite Fall — 2,548 feet — which, as we are writing, can be both seen and heard. The distance is covered in 3 leaps, the upper one being about 1,500 feet, and where it coni's over the rock it is 40 feet wide, with a huge weight of water. The Yankees claim this to be the finest waterfall in the world. May 2bth, Thursday. — We breakfasted at 6 o'clock, and started soon after to see the mirror lake before and after the sun was on it. The effect before was grand ; for the lake, forming a basin surrounded by high mountains and fringed with trees and foliage, was like a mirror, reflecting everj-thing in the sharpest possible way, even so much so that photographs are exacth' the same, whiche\-er side is turned upwards. Then the sun comes on over the moun- tain, giving a prismatic effect b\- the ra\-s being broken. The carriage then conve}-ed us by a prett\' road to a place where 3 rivers meet, each one being the overflow of a i ,i Wp ' S . t i ul '? ) : ■ "' * ' vh ! '■' VyH ! , • ■ f s t I ■ '■ ft 'ft ' ,' -J 1' I" ill 1^ f\ ■ f (.r-'r m^' ■W^."-.'' ■■■'''■■ \ : ,■:! 11 162 Ca/i/'onu'ci. \\ iUcrJ'all. CiossiiiL; a bn'tl'^c unckr wliicli tlif unik'tl ri\irs rush, wc fouiul horses and nuilcs waitiiiL;' to coini')' us up a niountain trail— the '^cntlcinen takiivj; the mules, and the ladies the horses. After an liour's climbiuL;' on these animals, \\c eame to a britli^e op])osite the falls f\'ernalj, and then dismountetl to rest the human and ecjuine frames. On each side of tlie ri\er are huL;e trees, shrubs, wild azaleas, wild lilacs, and many other llowers not familiar to our \ie\\. This was backed up by jjerpendicular walls of rock hundreds of feet hiL;h, anil, at the end. iIk' X'ernal h'alls, dasliinj4 o\-er a rock 350 feet ln\;h, with a river estim;'led ;it So feet wide. The sun was .shinini;' as a. C'alifornian sun can shine, with a cloudless sky — even bluer than Ital}' can boast. The prisiiKUic effects on the spray were e\"er chani;- iiii;" and mcist i;()rL:;eous. We left the scene with reluctr.nce, and liad some doul^ts as to the possil)ilit\' of finding a w a\' over the face of tile mountain. The jaiiele soon put us on a trail, whicli was steep and full of /ig/ags, and the aninuds answered to his clicer}' call. In some places one' slip of the foot meant picking up the pieces. After struggling for two hours, and with sundr\- Iialts. we came to ;i fine platea.u of rocks, surroundetl by tlie Half Dome, 8,S23 feet ; the Cloud's Rest, 9,912 feet; the Sentinel Dome, 8,122 feet; and the North Df)me, 7,522 feet — mountains of smooth granite, aluKJSt perpendicular and cjuite close to us, giving an effect of sterile graneleur. Here, between tw o of these huge masses of granite, is the Nevada ¥i\\\, 617 feet, falling upon smooth granite, which h;is become quite polished with the continual rush of water and ice, and is cal' d the "Apron." The Indians call this fall the J'i-:ca-ac/v\ or "Cataract of Diamonds"; directly behind is the Caj) (' ^iT as it w ride, and we were somewhat fatii^ued, discretion became the better ))art of valour. Glacier Point is exactly 3,325 feet perpendicularh' above the north siile of this house, and commands the finest views in the district. There is a small hotel, kept b\' Mr. McAulc}-, an Irishman, whose t^enialit}' is proverbial .-as an arduous ' j 'M'Pfl GLAc:ir:i<"'PoiNT. A peculiarity of this place is a piece of rock, projecting" about 12 feet, and 3 feet wide. Those with good heads walk to the end, but most people cringe at the idea. It is said that a few years ago 1 m TH ■■!'«.'■'■■' '' rl, mi I* 'I J 1: I. ■ J ■ . ■ m t i m d'. ;-ietii r 'im 1 flftl'-". ifylv 1 f s ■ ! liiliii^ ■ ■ !• S ': >, ii ' ■^ lit V ' v-'!' -nil' 264 Califoniia. Wx. McAuU)' tdok ■''. nouhl;' Cicnnan woman to tlic nul of tin's proinitu lit place and mack' lur an offer of inarriagi , with the information that, if she ri'fused him, thc\- would at once take tlu' shortest \\a\' to the Stoneinan's I louse. Of course she said yes, ;iiul is now cookint;' luncheons for hunL;r\- toiu'ists. This e\enini;' Mr. McAuley has treated us to a bonfire at the end of the point ; and, after it liad burned for a time, he ser\-ed it the same as he promised the German i;irl — that is, he pushed the liy;htcd sticks over the rock. The effect was remarkable, looking' as th()UL;h hundreds of rockets were comini^ down instead of L;oinij, up. Iniat;inc the distance — 200 feet hiL;her than an\- mountain in I'lnj^land. \\\ Capitan is the most con- spicuous mass, beini;' 7,012 feet hi;j,h, and perpendicular, with a flat top, standing;' in the \alley, makini;' evcrybod\- feel the}' must l;o round it. The surface is, for the most part, p'jlished i^ranite, but in two or three places pieces have fallen out, onlv lookinir like blemi.shcs. In one, I'.pparcntly about 3 feet, is a pine tree, which can be fair!}- seen only with a t;"lass. It has been found to measure 125 feet hi;j,h, and seems to prosper in its elevated positic)n— about 1,500 feet from the valley. The cascade falls at the lower end of the valley are more pretty than grand ; but an}' defect is made \x\> in the rapids, where the river leaves this trulv- wonderful scene. Returninsj,", \\ c visited the " Bridal Veil " again, just in time tf) .sec the prismatic effects of the afternoon sun. May 28//', Saturday. — We turned out at 4.30 A.M., ;ind w ere on the coach at 6. The atmosphere was most charming, and put new life into us. After a 3-hours' drive we arrixed at Inspiration Point, 5,248 feet, and took our farewell view of the most remarkable scenery in the world, it is said. At 12 o'clock we reached Wawoona, and had lunch, also ■ ■I "J 1 ! Ca/ifoniia. 2(y- secured bcdrocuns for tlu- nii^ht ; I o'clock fouiul us a;4;u'ii sc'itid in ;i cruTias^c for a visit lo the celebrated Mariposa Park, wherein are the larL';cst trees in the wdrkl- not ones or threes, hut luuulrcds, anil, as in all phases of life, Sdine are larL^er than others ; but they are all Li;iants anioni^st trt-es. There is one 1 20 feet in circum- ference ; another so iarL;e that our coaeh, with 4 h o r s e s , d r ove throU!_;;h a hole in the trunk. This tree is found b\- calculation to be 3,270 years old, and does not grow anywhere except in California, in a district 1 50 miles lon;j;, antl bears the name of SrgKoia ^i^i\i^-(iiji- t/ca, after some L;rand Inxlian. This wonderful t;ro\ c was dis- co\'ered in i S49, and is from 5,000 to 7,000 feet above the sea level. .]fay 29///, S/u/day. — We started at 8 on the return journey, and had a Vnv^ drive to Ra>-m(jnd, where the " sleeper " was all ready, and we were ylad to turn in. May 30///, Monday. — Stopping- at Lathop for breakfast ; Manh'osa I'akk Tkee. t 1 ! . 1 i 1 1 f. ■ill! I-I- 1; ■I'M : i ■ •' i ■ J !.'■ ;'i 1 *l • ». ] > 1 !'•-■: 'm \^^ f:lil If ■■,;•,■■. i^.i ■ WV^ y-.^' * .i'i''i! ■ti { I'll - If''''' . '-'i '^.'•' • ti 266 California. Vii i m :^ :< I A' i '- \\(.' in.'ulc i;(K)(l work of ;i liasty mciil, and llicii went tui our \\a)' lo San l-'rancisco, arrixinij at 12.30, and dfcidcd to palr(jni>c llic " OccidciUal Ilott-l," uliich, ii" smaller than tlu' oIIkt, is much moiX' comfortable. J line i.v/, \\\'(i)icsday. 'I'hcrc arc man}' line shops, and the hulies llo.;l about as in RcLjent Slreet— some in carriac;es, others promenadini; antl slioppini;'. The cos- tumes arc (|uite ecjual to those in Lontlon, if not superior ; but that m,i\- appear from the wearers ha\in;4 such fine fiL;ures, beini;- tall and well set up, and iKjt sulTeriuL;' from their shoes, as narrow toes are not fashionable. Probably the fair sex see the folly of their Chinese neii^hbours. After completing; oiu' necessary arrant;"ements, we started for a Ioul; ride to Mount Shasta. The fu'st portion of the journc)' was across tlie Oaklands I'\'rr\', then b\' the side of the Cioklen (iate l(arl)our, until wc reached the dreat I'Y^'ry, where the train, dixided into 3 sections, was run on to an immense ferr\' boat, and then taken acro-s the harbour, about 2 miles. riie whole arrant;ement was carried out so casil\- that, unless oiu' attention had been called to the fact of beini^ on a barL;e, we should not ha\e know n it. The weight must have been immense ; for the train consisted of 10 Pullman cars. So feet lout;" each, and 3 or 4 very larij;e lu<^<;'at:jc-vans. JiDic 2ii(t I Inirsday. — We L,^ot up at 5 to see the fine scenery, which had durini; our sleep become mountainous. FoUowini;' the banks of the i)retty Sacramento River, wc soon came in view of the last i^rand towering' landmark of the Sierra Nevada in the north — standinsj; alone in its white, silent majesty, like Fujiyama in Japan — Mount Shasta. It is 14,450 feet hiL;h, and, after the foot-slopes, it is covered with snow and ice. We soon entered Sacramento Canon, and the train mounteil up loops. I-~irst \'ou are b\- the I': !i j^l California. :67 river; tlnii, with sunclr)' winds .'iiul twists, .uul i;;iiiiiiiL;- iiian\- iVrsh \icws, ascend 2,000 feet. Coinini;- to the Mount Shasta SpriuL;", the train pulled up, and the passen^iers I'ushed out to L;et a drink of the celebrated water, which cures e\-er)thinL^-, and all but brinies dead miMi to life ai;ain. ^About lo we arrivi'd at Sissons, and left tlu' train, to inaki' a breal^ in this Ioul; journe}-. The platform seemed cpute at the foot (jf Mount Shasta, and we had a fme view. Takinij," a carrias^e for about a mile, we landed at tin- hotel, a loni;', low wooden house, after the st}'le of New Zealand, with three lari^e rooms, no carjji'ts, a.iid plain wood furniture — e\cr>'thini4' ver\' plain, but clean. in the iVonl of the house are some fine pine trees, and the fmest pcssible view of Mount Shasta. The [proprietor of the hotel is a remarkable man in more wax's than one in stature middle hei;^ht, very thin, stoojiing ij,ait, and bearini;" traces of hard u.sa;4e. He has a keen, determined face, with one eye that looks throuL;h you. The other is L^oiie. and in the socket is a piece of white paper, i-iivini;" a ver\- comical expression. Thirty years as^o he came here, when the onl\' inhabitants were unfriendly Indians, who raided his cattle, and would have saved him the trouble of a barber if thev had had the chance. lie pointed out a place, within lOO \ards of his house, where he used to shoot bears. This place had no name, and is now called after its illustrious settler, Mr. Sissons of Sissons, and the hotel is Sissons. Our host sa\'s there arc- immense i^iaciers on the eastern and northern sides of the mountain, in awful i;ori;'es ; but on account of the almost inaccessible hciL;hts and depths they remain, for the most part, in secret .solitude — a j^ood field for the Alpine club ! This would be a charminijj place for a holida}— fresh air, good water, and milk. Two gentlemen have just come in from fishing in the river, with . : MM 1 r-'.-lliij S ' I i.',;' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I IIM 12.5 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 "^ 6" — ► ,>%. '/W /. % >y' ^jf '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 4.^ ,\ 4< o % \ 73 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 -iy\<^ c^ .<^. ,c?. c* w- 268 California. % 1'. ! > a splciulid sliow of larijc trout, some wci'^^hiiij;' 5 or 6 l)outKl.s. The sunset h;ul a splendid effect upon the mountain. L;i\'ini;' rosy luies to the snow ; tlien came the silvery moon, which producetl a fresh set of shadows, witli a quiet and serenit)' onl}- to l)e appreciated in a place so far from the works of man. Not a voice to be heard, nor an\' cattle to be seen ; Nature havint;' retired for her ni;j;ht rest, wc did the same. Risini:j early in the mornin<^, we found a cloudless sky, with a decidedly cokl, crisp a.ir, and the mountain lookiivjj as if the upper edtjjes had been cut with a knife. Our h(jst told us of the L;ro\\ th of this place in his -if) years' experience. There are now within 5 miles half a dozen factories for makini;' boxes, and the land is beint^ cleared in man)- places ; so the population is increasini;. Securing;- sleeping- berths, and takiny; our seats, we travelled all day throut^h a most wonderful countrj-, .sometimes in deep valleys, by the sides of fast-runnint; rivers ; at others, ascendint^ by zit^zaj^s, or loops, on to the toj)s of mountains. At least they would be considered so in Knt;"land, becau.se t\\ ice we were hiijhcr than the hii^hest mountain in Great Britain. One of the.se is the boundarx' betu een California and Orei^on, which we crossed about 5. About 9 we took po.s.scssion of our berths, and retired for the ni<^ht, risint;" about 6 in the morning to find our.selves travelling on the banks of the great Columbia River, which drains an immen.se mountainous district. We saw it to great advantage, for the hot sun of the last i^iw da\'s h...il melted the snow, causing the river to be flooded. We passed Oregon city, where the river falls about 50 feet, forming ;i small Niagara. The cit)' .seems a prosperous place, and has several large flour mills — of cour.se worked by water-pow er. lH)llowing the river, we arrived at Portland, which is on one side, and crossed to West Portland on the other, botli most California. 269 I i important biisiiie'ss places, with fine- l)uiIclinL;"s. '^ood strctts. antl electric trains. There were nian\' fine ships in the river, and steamboats in tlie American style, carr\-in!4' passenL;ers from towns and villaL^es in the district. AltoL^ether, these ])laces 'j^ave the idea of a most important business centre. Later in the day we tofjk the train to Tacoma, ai^ain follow- ing the river, until we came to a ferry, when the whole lot. 7 lont'- carriai;es, 3 immen.se lu!4L,^i;4e van.s, and a powerful enLjiiie, was .shipped upon a hu!;e ferry boat, and trans- portetl about a mile up the river to a ferry, where the train was landed, re-formed, and then steamed ;iway as thoui^h nothini;- had happened. This lui-e bar^e was propelled by padtlles, and steered in the ordinar)- way. Passint;- throu;4h forests which are beiiii;' cleareil, and findini; other rivers to follow, we arrived about 4 o'clock at Tacoma, in \Va.shint;ton. and repaired to the hotel "Tacoina," a verv larL;e and pretentious place, where w j secured a room with a fine \iew. About 7 )-ears a|j;o this cit)' hardl}' e.xisted, merely a few houses, and now it has a population of over 60,000, w ith miles of fine streets and larj^e buildin.L,^s. Municipal and court houses, banks, manufactories, .stf)re.s, .shop.s, and in the suburbs beautiful villas, electric lii^hts, electric and rope trams, and in fact everythini;- required in the.se da}s of hit;h civili.sation. The city is situated on l'ui;et Sound, and has fine wharves well filled with l.u-L^e steamers, antl ships from all parts of the world. The situation is beautiful. On the opposite side of the Sound are forests of lar^c trees, and behind a ran^',e of mountains, mostly snow-capped. One, Mount Tacoma. a ma<^niificent mountain, is 14.420 feet hi^h. June -^th, Whitsunday.— Wcni to St. Luke's Church, an episcopal \\V^\\ church, where the service i.>^ well con I', ) ■ "' ! - J y fel ducted on tho.se lines— no pulpit nor reading desk. W i' ■ ^IH' ^i m I Bfif 1; |: I 270 California. had .1 walk in the suburbs, and found a fine parl< well laid out. The turf was splendiil ; in fact, we have not seen any so ^ood since leavini,^ home. As there were 256 wet days last year, we are fortunate in havinsjj a fnie one. From this ])ark there is a ;4ootl view of Pu^et Sound below the harbour, which looks like a fine lake studded with islands, and surrounded by trees, backed up by the Olympia ran^e of mountains. Mount Olympia, the height of which we cannot ascertain, looks like another Shasta or Tacoma Mining, wheat-growing, wood-cutting, and cattle-breeding .seem to be the chief .sources of wealth. XIII. ALASKA. i i! it,: m ^^■1 ^rii ::il ":':? Ill: I !M, n fHi M m ■7 'j'ii mw 1, 1 CHAPTER XIII. ALA.SA'.l. yUNE Gl/i, Whitsiin Mondar.—Wi: sailed on the Qucei/ at 4 o'clock this moniii^i;- for Alaska. The O/iiri/ is an American boat of about 3,000 tons, with four decks, pre- senting- the appearance of a Peabody workman's d\\ellin;4. each cabin openin^r on to a verandah ; and there are 94 of these boxes. We witnessed a contention between what appeared a newly-married lad\- and her husband -quite youni; and inexperienced. The lady wished her trunks to be placed in the cabin ; the poor husband said they were too lan^e to '^o in throu[.^h the door. However, she, not to be done, ;4ot a porter and his man to take them ; but on arriving- at the stairca.se, or, more nautically speakini^, the " com- panion," this companion was found to be too sinn//. Of course it was not the trunks that were too /argi\ It ended in the dis;^-ust of the lady, and the consiy;nment of the trunks to the hold. The sail down PuL;et .Sound was pleasant on this fine mornint;-; soon we arrived at Seattle, another mushroom town which has n-rown up in the last 7 \-ears, and had the misfortune to be burnt down 3 years ago. There rm •ir ill i If: m-^- N 274 . l/dshf. arc fine streets, I)uil(liui4< of iiniiuMiM- >i/.c, rkctric trams, and sli()|)s that kiL;int Street inii;lit eiiv\'. Siiiliii;^ a;4aiii, at 9 (i'cli)ck, wc arri\i'(l ahdiil \2 at l Ou nsind, a \ery pretty place' of ini:ch -.inalUr dimensions, and remained an lioiir and a half. Thoiii;'!) small, it is a bus)- i)lacc, with its shi])s ;md \\har\es ;ind a \'ankee Liunboat. which had nolhini;' better to do than to salute us as we left. Sailini; a-^ain, we came to a \-ery prettily situated infant town, which has been in existence Kss than 2 wars, and was christened .Anacortts. l.arLie buildin;4s have sprun;^ U]), a town hall, and an extensive hotel, besides se\eral smaller ones, wide streets, electric liL^hts, teleL;ra])hs and telephones, manufactories, stores, etc., all >[)read about, with plenty of blocks to fill up. The vacant spaces are only " biH'nt off," with the result that thousands of cliarreil trunks of trees are still standini;', looking; in the distance like men. The popul.'.tion is now about 15,000, w lio support 2 daily newspapers. What unha]i])y p(.'o])le ! Another sail of 2 hours broUL;ht us into Hritish waters, and to the cit\' of Victoria, where we lanck'd, antl are {^oin'j;" to remain for the nii^ht. The sunset, as .seen from our ship, was most remarkable, beiuL;' lurid antl w ild- lookin;4 in the extreme, the ver\- ojijiosite of tlie calm British lion. The m-arly full moon was well up to i^ive her presence and lis^dit. In the east the after;j[low was ver\' striking;", making the snow mountains look red ; then a little to the north was a hut;e rainbow, the whole castin;^' a ijlarc upon the water. In the foreed all nii;"ht to . I /(fS /[•(!. I .■» take oil board >tock of allkiii(h, tVoiii whiskey to cahha'^fs. Unfortiiiiatrl)- it lias Ih-lmi a poiiriiiL; wcl inoniiii|.;. and has spoilt our chance of si'iiii-- (h'staiit vii-us; i)ul tlie sail down the (iulf of (ieop^i.i, with its many islands, has proved vi'i-y interistiiiL;. The rain has ])asse{l olT. and warm sunshine is most i;rateful. \\\' are in the midst of fine scener>-, sailing; between thi' mainland and \'aneou\er Island, beiiK'; part of the seaboard of British Columbia. From 3 o'clock to 7 we sailed throUL;h l)isco\er\- l'assa.u;e and Se)-inour Narrows into Johnstone's Straits. The .scenery has become verv fine-, for we seem to sail frttm one lake to another, .surrounded b>- hi-h hills all clothed with pine trees, and snow -cai)i)ed mountains in the backt;r()und. In some places the creeks run inland hundreds of miles, and are the outlets of lari^e ri\-ers, such as the I'"raser River, celebrated, amons^st other thiiiLis, for it.-, tine salmon, some of which are on board. The ever-chaniiin;.^ colour of the water is a slrikiii!;- feature. Sometimes it is L;reen, at others, when open to the ,sca, blue, and where the rivers rush in (|uite L!,re\'. There lias been a very fine sunset show in- up all tlu' mountains, and illuminatini;- the clouds with the lurid i;iow of the departing;" sun. JiiJic 'At/i, Wcdiicsi/ay. — A ver\- fine morniiiL;, and the .ship sailins4- well. The .scenery is bccoinini;- much bolder, and the forests are immen.se. The G. O. M. woukl find plenty of employment here for tlie remaiiuler of his ilays, without disfi;j,urement of aiiy park ; and as this is all the property of John lUill, he mi-ht do some j^ood by sendiiiL;" the timber to market. This mornin;4wc pa.s.scd (iraham's Reach and the villai^^e of Bella Bella. Sailing throuL;h VV ri;j;ht's Sound, we came across a lan^c canoe filled with Indiaws, " paddlin;^ their i^ ■^^1 !76 ■l/as/.' a. n'^' ^m m mi I'n m: own caiKK'": hut tlic ;mii>iiiu ol' human lifi> in thcst' parts i^ \ I !>■ small, and there is plent)' dl" room for our surplus population. M env. caLjed up w itii 2^() Americans on plea>urt' bent •^ixes us an ojiportunit)' of .stuil\'ini;' their peculiarities. rhe\" are not "gourmets, hut i;i)Urniaiuls ; for ([uanlily is the rulini;' passion of males and females and their offspring;. To L;i\i' soini' '"lea. we noticed thi' breakfast of a fair-haired ;4irl who sat at the- same table with us. I"'irst canii- a plate- tul of porridL^e. with a plentiful supply of milk, b\ittei\ and .sUL;ar ; si'Cond, a iar^e piect if bi'cfstcak onl\' half cooked, with a quantit)' of frii'd potatoes, ami sweet cakes, then two ci;"^s and a dish of radishes ; next came two larL;e t;riddlc- cakes, with a liberal supply of butti'r, sui;ar, and Iioney, washed down w ith two or three 'glasses of iced water anil a cup of stronsj; coffee. This youni;' lad\' came up sm'''ni;' at lunch, then ai;ain at dinni'r. /////(' 9///. riiitrsday. — I'.arU' this morninL;' we j^asscu 50 40', and attain entered American possessions — territor\- of which the>- are ver_\- jiroud. and not w ithout cause, having;" had more foresiuht than the I'av'lisli Government when Russia was w illin;.'' to .se ■11 Al, isKa. — w hich IS tlH' se aboard of part of l^ritish Columbia, and that lars^e territory in the far west, some of it held by the I hulson's Vi\\\ Conipan\-. America purchased, for little o\-er two millions sterlini;, 600,000 s(|uares miles of territorx', which is nearly 700 miles from their nearest point, thus dcprivini^ us of the .seaboard. We were informi-d that the name "Alaska" is a corruption ,f Al- ;iz-ck-sa, tlu n itive meanint;" of which is "Great ("ountr)'"; aiid it ma)- be considered the Xorwa)' of the Pacific, with, in the North, its midnit^ht sun. .\t 9 o'clock e arrived at W'ranj^el. a small .settlement of 400 or 500 I w inh.abitants, chiefl\- Intlians, who live b\' fishin ant . \/(iska. 27; luintinijj. There arc two trihis, tin- SiikiiK- and the i'lilinkc't, thi' latter beiiiL; ■>tu])i(i, hea\ \-1(h )kint;- pioplr. G()in;4 ashore, we first visitt'd tlu' h(pu>e d" old Jor, w hdsi- sii;n is a white llai; on a >tick. Joi' inaki'> wooiK'h spoons in winter, and ;j,()es fishini;' in siiniint'r. Ik' was not at liome, sowe niovi'd on to \isit tiie churches — one Ronian CathoHc, the other a chapel of some sort. i)Ul (piite a tidy place. Tlu're ww not an>' ro.ids, as tlu_\" would he useless on account of the absence of houses; hut tin- wa\'s are indicated In- boards placed as footpaths about two feet from the L^round, leaxini; plent>' of room foi- the wati'r to run awa>'. The chief, a thick-set. dull-lookiiiLjf man, was bus\' selliiii; what he could, .and Mrs. Chief was nursing; a bab\-. .She was an ul;1\' woman, with a broken nose and black teeth. We do not like to call the fair se.\ i)\- such a title, but ])lain woulil not tlescribe these Intlian women, nor yet the children, for the)- are born UL^ly. H\' wa_\- of improvini;- their ULiliness, it is a common practice to blacken their faces. Some of the women have a piece of silver pushed throu;-;'h the lower lip, while others use a piece of bone somethi'iL;' like a stud, but for whiit purpose we could not a.scertain. In front of all the houses of persons of ilistinction arc "Totem I'oles." These poles are from JO to 30 fi'et hiL;h, antl about 2 feet thick, and show b>- their car\-in!4' the descent and famil}' alliances, ami their histories. The male pole has on the top a man with a chimne}--pot hat and lari^e eyes, then comes another man, with heads of animals, etc., carveil on his coat; ami, it he has been a i;"ener()us man, (xw; rouml rini^s on each side ; then comes perhaps a bear's head, and more men's faces, etc. The female pole has an eai^le on the top and a crow at the bottom, all of which have siL;nifications unknown to us. m '•'',!' fir II- m ;':?< 7^ Uasl: (f. )>\ :;>iW' Most ti.Tliiii;'. Near thi^ place i> the Stikc( 11 l\i\\r, cclcbnitcil lor lari;c' salmon, and there are several "('aiiiicries," for packiiiL; the fish in tins. We saw a man conu' to the ship w ith a do/en hiiL;e fish — cert;iiiil\"not less than ()0 lbs. lach— the hand- somest salmon we c\er s;i\\, and tin- price asketl was 2s. Oi/. each. On the beach w ere many finecanoesmatleoutof tree- triink.s, which must ha\e entailed a lars^c amount of labour. Just before \2 o'clock we left this outlandish pkice, and saile' waters were observable for some miles. Our course was throUL^h Sumner Straits, a \er\- narrow and serpentine pa.s.sai^e, with sunken rocks, onl)- to be crossed at hiLjh tide ami dead slow speed. We then came to W'ranL!,el Straits and l^^'iderick Scnmd. passint;" .several fine glaciers and small icebergs, which had become detached — Patterson's Glacier, 6,ooo feet ; B.iirtl Glacier. 5,93 1 feet. /////<' 10///, Friday. — Soon after 5 o'clock this morning \vc were arou.sed by a grating .sound, w ith frequent bumps, suggesting that the ship had run on to a rock. Turning IDIK.M I'lil I • I:i ■I /a skit. 270 oul, and ()|)iiiiiii; our iVoiil door, ua> oiil)- the \\orl< ot" a inomr '. What a >vj}'\\ iiicl our startlcci si'U.srs not roclss, nor i)illo\v>, hut iccl)cr_L;>. \\\- were in the Taku inlet, suriouiidi'd !>)• Iloatin^f icr of all diinc-n^ions. Sonu' oi" liu- l)crL;s wcw as lar^;!.' as thi' shi]), while othi-rs were smaller, assunn'uLj all sorts oi" shai)es. '["he colour of some of the pieces was the llne>t blue imaL;inable. The ship was l^oin;^ dead slow, and stoppini;' to force its \va>' to Jte faci- ol the Toku Cilaeier, from which frecpient falls of ice look place, with the roar of a park of artillcr\-. Surrounded b>- precipitous snow -clad moimtains, with several arms of the ijlacier, anil not a breath of wind nor a sound, except when a fall took place, this was the uKJSt ma'^nificent spectacle we hati e\er seen, it soon became apparent that the ship was ^^oiuL;- to takr- in some of the ice, iov the reipiisite tackle was produced, anti vi'r\- soon a lars^e block, sa\' two tons or more, was inL;eniousl\- transported from the shinini; water into the hold. This was continued for four hours, so that we ha\e a j^ood supi)l\- if ice-creams are required. AlthoULih it was ver\- cold antI sharp, making hands soon told, for previous to iSSo it was not known. 1 )urinL; the lOissian occujjation of .Alaska prospectini; for prt'cious or other mi-tals was stricll)' prohibited, for fear it would interfere with huiitint;' and tradiuL;' with the Indi nis. So strictl)' was this carried out. that on oiu- occasion a hnntt r came across a piece of rich i;ol(l cpiart/, which he look to the t^'overnor at Sitka, with the result that he was tied to a post, and receixed fortx' lashes. .After the transfer to America a tlifferent state of thiiV-^s bet;an, prospectors investii;atint;' the v.irious chaimels in this inhuul sea. In iSbio Joseph Juneau left Sitka in a canoe, .accompanied by two Indians, takini; provisions for several months, .'.nd they .sailetl about some of the channels. In Jul)' of tlu- same \'ear, whilst i)rospectin^ alont;' (lastineau Channel, they found a small stream contaimnt;" i;ood prospects, and they a.scended about 4 miles to its head, where the\" came upon an immense deposit of L;,ra\el rich in L;old. This was afterwards named (iokl ("reek, and is to-da\' worked most e.\tensi\ch-. Joseph Juneau built the first cabin, which was the foundation of the town bearini; his name. On the site of the cabin now stands a jeweller's shop. The town is prettiU' situated in a corner at the foot of the mountains, and the houses are built of wood, in a somewhat irrei;ular manner. There is a wharf, to wliich wc are tied, looking;' upon the houses tacini; th.e straits. In all our travels we have .seen in tverx' countr\" " Wdr- '.f I 1* - ; • w. ■A> ^.' € "f ^ 1 1 |i ! i,1 1 'i feivj . I /a ska. ^S3 \} Cfslcr Sauce" ior >alc. and thi> (lUtlaiulish mclropdli.^ is iiol ail exception ; I'oi- in a sturc window (established iiSSS) there were Worcester sauce, and Crosse and Hlaclpaper, 2 restaurants, I cand}- factor}-. 3 breweries, 1 cii;ar factories, 1 watch- tinker, and 1 Shook.iin-house txxe, whatever that ina)- be. /////(• 11///, S(il/irc/in. — About 6 o'clock this nioinini;" we arrivetl ojjposite the Da\idson (ilacier, with a fine niorniiii;' and brii;ht sunshine. This is the most import;. nt of o\er 100 we had passed in the last two da\s — includin<4- the Great Auk, KaL;ie, Toku, etc. It is like an open fan, 3 miles across its front, and 1, 200 feet abo\e the fiortl — a huLje mass of ice. Near this is the township of Chilcat, an important centre ; but we did not land, ;is it is inferior to Juneau, and has not ;in\- strikini;" peculiarities beyond beiiiL;" the home of a race of Chilcat Indians. L}'nn Canal, named by Vancouver, the disco\erer, who was a native (jf Lx'iin in Norfolk, is a fine fiord, wh.ich he named after his birthplace. It is the finest fiorel in the Chilcat country. Here salmon fishini;' is extensivel}- carried on, for the place is alive w ith splendid fi.sh. The North- west Tradini;" Compan\' have established a salmon cannei)' here, and emplo\' a number cjf Indians and Chinese, the Chinese performing;' the more technical work of arraiii;in^- the tins and solderini;'. The almost alive salmon are broui^ht in, then, with two or three cuts of a Ioiil;" knife, the fish is si)lit tlow n the back, washed, and passetl on to be cut into pieces to fit the tin ; the lid is then soldered on, with the exception of one s[)ot. Afterwards the tins arc placed in boilinL;' water till the fish is cooked ; the spot is soldered, nmkiivjj thein henneticall)' sealed ; \r' % lyl ' moment, wlien the anchor would fall to the bottom in a second. The surroundin;^ mountains are clothed w ith pine trees dow n to the water's edhrul)-likc' C( (lar tree--, wi; rc.iclu'tl llic liidiait v'wcv, a ])L'arl\' stream tl', threatlin^" through tln' numeious islands until Sitka was lost to view. Beiii^ particularly fine, and all the snow mountains clear, the sail was most enjoyable, t^'oing, as it were, from lake to lake, and river to river. About 9 o'clock, with sun shinin:^' brightly antl the snow peaks towering to the blue sky, we entered lc\- Straits, and soon came in contact with floating icel)ergs, man)- much larger than the ship. The ice increased in (piantitj-, and becune .so full of floes that the ship had to be .stopped, becau.se running against these huge bergs shook it from end to end, and there was the fear cjf breaking the screw . We elbowed our way through this crowd of ice for 5 hours, ■i-i^i rW, ii" 1;; 1 : 1" 2S8 ^ \ la ska. w-m and >a\v a j^ood Lxeinplilicalioii of Aivtic na\i^alii iii in tiic biiinpiiii;, scrapiiv^, and l)uckin;4 — /.,-., puttini;' the .^liip back and tr\-inL,r a frcsn place. It api)carcd as if nou nnYjlit i^o for niik's from " l)i'r;4 to floe." The surroundini; mountains were coxertd with snow and ice down to the water's ed;^e. and n(jt a xestii^e oi ves^ctation visible. The wonderful sapphire blue of the ice. with its chameleon chan;j,es to Lapis Larjiili, and the atmosphere tinti'd with the ra\'s of a northern si-ttin;4 sun ' 10.151 'M ;■•!-.' k km 1( i;i!i:k(.. behind the I''airw eather range of mountains, scndini;" their illuminated peaks into the very hea\-ens, and linhtin;^" up the whole canopy with \arious hues, presented a spectacle of wonder to the minil, ])roducin' Straits, told Captain Carrol, the commander of this ship, of the great glacier 30 miles up the bay, the thud of whose falling ice could be heard and felt at his house, declaring that it rattled his teacups, and sent waves to his shore. In 1883 the captain took him in the steamer Idaho to verify his statements, and found what is said to be the largest known glacier in the world, and, as far as investigations have been made, is 35 miles long, 6 to 10 miles wide, and the surface of the ice mea.sures 350 .square miles. The front or wall of ice is about 200 feet above the water-level at high-tide. We are anchored abtnit half a mile from it, in full view, and it is an amusement to .see the huge pieces of ice fall into the water, sending up volumes of spra\-, with a roar like thunder. After breakfast the ship's boats were placed at the disposal of the pa.s.sengcrs, who, for the most part, went ashore. VVc walked to the face of the glacier, and were then struck with its grandeur, both in shape and colour. Some of the pinnacles looked perfect works of archi- tecture and statuary, like Milan Cathedral. It was .sad to think they would all fall during the week into the fiord ; for the glacier recedes on an average 7 feet a da\', throw- ing off about 2,000 tons of ice, which float as icebergs cither to be melted by the sun, or washed out to ,sca. Our next venture was a climb up the moraine— a rather rough 19 r ifi M- w 290 / l/(isi'a. Hi ifcfit >i.H. mm m i^ll experience for our boots; but we were rewarded for our efforts by reaching the glacier in an iiour ; and anotlur hour brought us to a point from which there was a won- derful view — nothing but fields of ice and snow mountains, with glaciers as far as the eye can reach. The surface was scored with crevices deep and blue, some giving off sounds of rushing water. It was a desolate i)icture, without animal life, except now and then a few eagles flying high up on their wa}' to more fruitful places. We have never seen glaciers .so easy o{ access and le.ss difficult to walk over, giving us an opportunity of viewing these extensive fields of ice. which have exi.sted for thousands of years, and becoming familiar with the glacial theory where it is a stern realit}'. The captain took the ship within lOO yards of the face of the glacier, then .sailed the whole length, 3 miles, for the water is loo fathoms deep clo.se up to the ice ; so that with this 600 feet below the water and the 200 to 300 above, there is nearly 1,000 feet of ice in depth. The night was clear, giving views of the St. Elias range, 70 miles distant ; but there were not any decided sun.set effects ; .so wc turned in for a good night's rest after leaving Icy Straits. Jinic 14///, Tticsday. — The .ship continued sailing down Chatham Straits, and into Frederick Sound, where we reinained stationary for 5 hours, waiting for the tide to pass through Wrangel Passage, which is a dangerous place, except at high tide, on account of the rush of water. The rest has been quite enjoyable after the excitement of yes- terday, with warm sun.shinc and grand .scenery. At 3 o'clock we .started again, passing .safely through the difificult navi- gation, and then stopped for a conversation with a canoe full of Indians, of whom there .seemed to be three or four generations, from babies to old women. Then came a small steam-launch for a missionary, whom wc brought ■wm Alaska. 291 from Sitka. His pleasant lot for 3 days is to be in a canoe with Indians, uiio are -oin- to take him to a station ;o miles distant. It has come on a pourin^^ uct ni-ht, so social amusements under cover have to be found. Juuc xith, Wcdncsday.~-\\Q are now .sailin-- in Jiritish waters, havini;" pas.scd Fort Simpson in thJ ni<,rju, and An Indian's House. through Grcnvillc Channel, Graham's Reach, into Queen Charlotte Sound, where the .scenery is lovely, like a 'chain of beautiful lakes. This evening: we passed Bella Bella, a station of the Hudson Bay Company. From the water it looks a pretty place, with 47 hou.ses and a portentous- lookint; church, of course all built of wood. The inhabitants are about 30 white people and 400 Flat Head Indians. ;: 2()2 .l/iisl'a. \\\ fr''f?:-' Vim t'-i im .1 IV". il ^^■ I'll There arc several races of these people, wIuj come iiiuler the catc'Jorx' of North American Indians. The ones we have seen most of are the Thinklets anil some ICskimo, who inhabit the shores, and coine into the fiords durin;^ the salmon season. Mr. liadlam writes that the Thinklet.s are the most warliUc of these northern tribes, anil in war- fare cruel and sava|j;e, but most favoin-able to white men ; whereas the Chilcats and ("hilkoots are just the reverse. The Thinklets have the character of ini;enuity in the manufacture of utensils and instruments of warfare, and workin;4 in inetals. They have a re>pect for women and ai^cd people, not common amon;j;st their tribes, and are fond of personal adornments ; but docs not that equall)' api)ly to our own countr>inen who frequent liond Street? Ol course tastes in adornment differ ; at the same time, taste is only fashion. The Indians embelli h nature by wearing car- and no.sc-rini;s, from which are hun;;' ornaments in shell, bone, wood, copper, and silver, and their heads are frequently variei^atcd with i^rea.sy colours. Tattooinif is practised by drawint; a coloured thread under the skin, but it is not as effective as the Japanese. A tatt(j(K'd woman, with no.sc- and car-rings so heavy that her features arc drawn out of shape, and a lip button, is not a picture of loveliness. Polygamy is common, and the number of w ives seems regulated by wealth ; for the wife does not bring any profit to the household, as there arc tribal taxes levied in proportion to the number of wives. These people arc fond of the " cratur," and w hen intoxi- cated commit all sorts of cxccs.ses ; .so a law has been passed forbidding the .sale of alcohol to the Indian.s. Alaska is a wonderful country, but at present .suffering from the want of land-laws ; for although Congress made A/aska. ;93 seems ii<4 any such ;i flourish of truinpct*^ on ac([iiiriiv4 the tenitoi)-, it is not \'ct adinittcil into Conijrcss, aiul there is not any securit)' in buikh'iv^ houses or tnanufactories, or opcnini; mines, because there is not an\' title, the L'nitcd States having the power to step in anil taUc cverj'thin^^ Jinir \Gtli, r/iiirsddj'. — Our sail continued in British waters, passing man>' cultivated spots, until we arrived at the entrance of a beautiful ba\" in Vancouver Island, called New Westminster, where there are extensive collieries, with railwa)- tirops to several wharves ; so that man)* ships of lari^e si/e can take in coal at the same tune. Our ship went alongsiile, and took in 500 tons. In the afternoon the steam-launch and 4 boats were t^ot overboard, into which 100 passcn;jjcrs were stowed, and towed to the head of the ba>-, where is situated the prosperous and prett)- town of Naniamo, which has sprunt; into existence in consequence of the coal mines. A prospector, named Dunsmuir, dis- covered this coal, and i)urchased the whole district for a small sum. N(iW the income is enormous, as the demand for I'acific steamers alone is very lari^e. Wc spent a pleasant hour in viewini; the churches, post-office — " \.\i." — and shops. Then the procession of boats was formeti, and wc returned to the ship for dinner. Some time carl)- this morniu'^ wc sailed attain, passint^ through many pretty and narrow straits, and arrived about 10 o'clock at Victoria, the capital of Vancouver. Here, as far as we were concerned, ended the trip to Alaska, with many good- byes and assurances of friendship, and invitations to call at various cities en route. nl ill i m ^;.ii' I i:l]L'l m ?s XIV. ■' 1- IJ'i'.f< -s having land visible on both sides ; coming face to face with tribes of Indians, of whose exploits in hunting and fishing, as well as scalping white men, we have often read ; and meeting also the prospector, a wonderful character, Avho faces all kinds of dangers in his search for gold. I must not forget to mention the candle-fish, so full of oil that it is dried and used, as its name indicates, by burning to give light. Last, and not least, we have .seen 700 miles of British Columbia, uhicli has a great future. June x-jth, Friday, Victoria, Vancouver Island. -WW^w^cA from the s.s. Qucoi, and took ui) our quarters at the " Driard Hou.se," a large hotel, in a transition state to a larger. Engaging a carriage, avc had a drive through all the suburbs, and were perfcctl)- amazed at the number of fine 997 m. ■ It ■% .;;! ' -'< 'if Ifc > ^^m in 298 Canada ?^;^;i?-^ i'V':!... ... „ If \illas, entirely built in the Mnj^lish fasliion, with well-kept '^^anlens, one [)lace reminding; us very much of Chislehurst Common. Dunsmuir Ca.stle, built by -Mr. Dunsmuir, the ^ owner of the New Westminster Collieries, is a L;rancl stone castle with towers, antl lart^c i)ark. The ])ubHc park is splendid, bein;^^ laid (nit w ith much taste, and commandiiiL^ fine views. The climate is said to be perfect, and, jutlc;inL;" from the llowers and fruits, as well as the wild flora, the report must be true. This cit\' of Victoria, Vancouver Island, is thoroui^hly I'jiLjlish in a way, the inhabitants suppressing Americanisms. It is now in the Dominion of Canada, but has its own par- liament, sitting in the new Senate House, built in the Jubilee Year, and surrounded by a pretty park. Vancouver Island is larger than England, and the people have an idea that it must become one of the important places of the world, as it has any quantity of coal, iron, gold, silver, copper, lead, and quicksilver, also fine beds of clay, cither for bricks or pottery, and an unlimited supply of timber. The city seems in a great state of prosperity, building, of both housesiand manufactories, going on all over the place ; and there arc no beggars, work being offered to all comers. A creek runs through the middle of the town for several miles, which is very pretty, with gardens and boathouses in many places, giving amusement and healthy exercise to the inhabitants, who .show their appreciation of such pleasures by the good use they make of them. June \'6th, Saturday. — After enjoying a good rest in a bed in a large room (quite a change from a small cabin), an electric tram ride took us 4 miles to the village of Esquimau, on the banks of a creek. It is very beautiful, and S.::.'. \i il!' o ■J i\ Ji: Ji :=■ J»!' Sf?; ; f y^ i|.,r •n ;i' ^ii if Canada. ;oi o is Her Majesty's Naval Depot for the Pacific and Ikhring Straits. Only one t^unboat was in the creek, all the rest being out cruising. There is a dry dock, with storehouses and other buildings, cricket and lawn tennis grounds, etc., and piles of shells, also some large guns, which, being cracked, were waiting for shipment to England. We met a good man who has been out here thirty years, and remeinbered when the place was a station of the Hudson Bay Company, and had only about 50 houses. The old fellow seemed delighted to recount his adventures, which were as exciting as the " Arabian Nights ICntertain- ments." He related many of them to us, from being taken prisoner in Alaska by the Chilcat Indians, and the mode of escape, to having the accumulations of a lifetime burnt in one night, the value of them being I/O.OOO. We visited his museum of Indian curios, containing inany wonderful things, some of which are going to the World's Fair at Chicago, and others to the British Museum. This worthy rejoices in the name of John J. Hart, and is a cockney. With regret wc leave Victoria at midnight, b>' the Cana- dian-Pacific steamboat, for Vancouver, feeling that another day or two could have been spent with pleasure and profit in this most delightful place. Unfortunately, however, there was not another boat till the Tuesday following. June icfth, Sunday. — We turned out soon after 5 to enjoy the balmy air of a splendid morning, and view the delightful surroundings of islands covered with trees and sub-tropical foliage, some inhabited, others without a trace of life ; and in the background the Columbian and Olympian Mountains, covered with eternal snow, and high i^eaks, so perpendicular as to give an effect of black pillars supporting the sky. ;i ■ li ' % ■A ■% '■ i* sit .: w -■ i % % ■ » ""''\ ^i Canada. ■'•-n/v s\ F,''->;l v. About 7.30 \\c sailed into a wcll-woodcd creek, and then roundctl a turn, and Vancouver was disclosed, with its fleet of ships, includintjj the liiuptrss of Japan, which had arrived the day before from Yokohama, crowded with passent]jcrs and freii^ht. This place is the babj' of the Canadian-Pacific Railway, and has sprung; up in something; over 5 years ; 6 years, all but a week exactly before our arrival, a cjreat bush fire burnt up the whole place, only one house escaping;, the inhabitants havint; to take refuLje in and on the water. If you walk about the town you are tempted to say that this is a fable, a real Munchausen, or a wonder equal to the building of the walls round Syracuse — 26 miles in 6 days — for there are fine wide streets, with substantial buildinL;s, electric trams, which l;o every 5 minutes, and churches in numbers, with spires or towers, and fine east windows. There are about 20 hotels, but of course not all equal to the hotel " Vancouver," to which a little addition of 60 more bedrooms is in the process of buildint^. \Vc went to Christ Church, and the clergyman paid us the compliment of commending English Sundays, in con- trast to Sundays in Vancouver, where people go picnics, and have fishing and shooting parties, carrying their fishing rods and guns through the streets with perfect composure. After church we had a walk, and admired the fine villas, with well-kept gardens, and quite a flower show of ro.se.s. Here the electric tram is a fine institution, being circular — that is, it goes round and round, covering some 6 miles of town, for 10 cents, or halfway for 5 cents. I^^-om the upper part there is a splendid view, which reminds one of the Tyrol towns, with their mountainous surroundings. The more we see, the more we wonder at this 0-year- old town. i! jv<',: ' ^ ih c: o u f ■I) til jl * *>! \h. r, fr* Canada. 305 sii hinr, and cloudless sky. A .iiilc and a half from tlu- hotel " X'aiicouvcr " is the Columbian National Park, called the Stanley Park, coverin^r many miles of > '\^. ' Viii ', nuun , "Ics, running from the base of the mountains widi ;'s serums of curves and loops, doubling upon itself again and again. This is one of the most remarkable places on the earth, and can be classed with the Leon \'alle\-. Norway, the Cirque dc Gavarne. Pxrenees, Otiera Gorge, New Zealand, and Yo.scmite Valle\-. California, where nature has been convulsed b>- ice or eartlupiakes, and Alaska with its icy devastations. It has been said and written that the Selkirk Glacier is larger than the whole of the Swi.ss rrlacicrs :i!i :..i 3IO Canada. I :.. m:^^ V-. m^- m 'f^'t %': ^<- put together. We were not inclined to believe this report^ having seen both ; but in tiny case, there is enough ice here to supply London for ages to ccjmc. After lunch the train of 5 cars, with a huge engine, took us on another journe}- through this wonderful country. The first part was down the side of a mountain gorge with a river 1,000 feet below and snow-covered mountains above, all varying in shape and height, and in such numbers that, like the Irishman with an enormous family, " names for all of them were not required, for no one could remember them." Ascending again we came to Rogers' Pass, named after Major A. B. Rogers, by whose adventurous energy it was discovered in 1883, previous to which date no human foot had penetrated to the summit of this great central range. The Pass lies between two lines of high snow-clad peaks. Those on the north side form a prodigious amphitheatre, under whose parapet, 7,000 or 8,000 feet above the valley, half-a-dozen glaciers may be seen at cjnce, and so near that their shining blue fissures are distinctly visible. The Hermit, Macdonald, and also Sir Donald, form the chief attractions. We passed between the two former through a narrow split in the rocks, caused by some convulsion in nature, and barely sufficiently wide for the railway. Between these two enormous precipices, about 6,000 feet high, there are bare rocks, without a sign of vegetation. Crossing mountain torrents on tressel bridges caused some excitement of nerve feeling, one especially, which is 295 feet above the water, and said to be the highest in the world. Regaining the valley, we came again to the banks of our old friend the Columbia River, which had wound round the feet of the Selkirks for about 400 miles. Pa.ssing through Bear Creek and Six Mile Creek, with Canada. ,1 1 the river in view, \vc came to Donald, an important place, being the headquarters of a section of the railway, with workshops, storehouses, etc. The servants, conductors, and engine-drivers changed, also the time one hour, from i 5 hrs. 2omins. to 16 hrs. 2omins., the 24-hour system of clocks being used all through this line. A steamer starts from this place once a week up the Columbia to the lakes at the head of the river 100 miles distant, calling at many mining villages, where gold and silver arc found in great quantities. From these lakes arc roads and trails through Findlay Creek, and to the Kootcna)- Vallc)-. Soon after leaving Donald we entered the Kicking Horse Caiion, through which rushes the Beaverfoot River, the mountain sides becoming vertical, rising .straight up for thousands of feet within a stone's throw from wall to wall. Through this vast chasm go the river and railway, the latter cro.ssing from side to side, and running along ledges cut out of the solid wall, twi.sting and turning in every direction, and frequently plunging through projecting angles of rock which .seem to clo.se the way. The towering cliffs almost shut out the sunlight, and the roar of the river and train, increa.sed by the echoing rocks, produce a noi.se never to be forgotten. The only signal for starting is the cry of " All aboard ? " so one has to be on the qui vivc. The form of the train was quite changed, one engine being in front, one in the middle, and another at the back, to distribute the weight of the.se monster pieces of machinery, on account of the tre.s.sel bridges. The di.stance to the next station, 10 miles away, has a gradient of 1,140 feet, equal to i in 46 for the whole distance, and we w ere informed that part of the way \\. is i in 30. 12 Canada. !:i ii M: I' Si I: M:gS'^ The line is .ilonjj; the cd;^e of ji mountain for some distance, w ith the Kickint; Horse River far below. The scenery is sublime and almost terrible. Lookinijj to the north, one of the L^randest mountain valleys in the world stretches to an unknown distance, with large white t^lacier-bound peaks on cither side, o\\ the left Mount Stephen, 8,000 feet above the valley, and opposite, Cathedral Mount, with its immense glacier. Arriving at Hector Station, we passed a most beautiful lake with retlections of the surrounding mountains. Here our extra engine power was removed, and the train prepared for a start down the f)ther side of the mountain. This is said to be the most stupendous railwa\' work in the world, and much the most difficult in this Canadian- Pacific undertaking. The 10 miles were accomplished in 33 minutes, with 8 cars, each 50 feet long, and 2 luggage cars. To see the whole train, and the incline, it looked impossible for such a railway performance. Continuing through wild mountainous countr\% we arrived at Banff, our destination, about 22 o'clock, and were glad to rest after .seeing so much. Jiim 23/v/, riiursday. — A pouring wet day until 5 o'clock, with snow and wind, confined us to the " Canadian-Pacific Hotel." This is heated with hot-water pipes, but has in the hall a huge log fire, which was most attractive. However, we found our boxes were more so, recjuiring, as they did, a thorough turn out. At 5 o'clock the clouds rolled up, like the drop-.scenc in a theatre, and disclo.sed one of the finest mountain panoramas it is possible to conceive. This hotel is built U{)on the knoll of a hill overhanging the river, and in the centre of a plateau entirely surrounded by snow-clad mountain.s. The plateau is 4,500 feet above the sea Canada. level, ;uk1 the snow commences very little above the valley. Whichever window we looked out of we saw a hui;e mountain covered witli snow, and, as it was fresh that day, the wOiitencss was remarkable, except where it was tinged with the rosy colour of the setting;- sun. Such was the wonderful beauty of this scene that it made one ask whether it was reality, or onl\- the illusion of a distorted mind. June 2\tlt, Friday. — A magnificent morning, with cloud- less sky, and the mountains standing out in all their grandeur. After breakfast we walked 3 miles uphill to "Grand View" and the liot springs, and there found a nice little hotel with an unmatched prospect and a most polite proprietor, who invited us to .see the wonders of the place. Adjoining the house is a natural liot spring of sulphur water, issuing from the rock, and up 72 stejjs is the Sanitorium. These steps present quite a comical appearance, for affixed to the banisters are a number of crutches, to each of which is fastened a piece of wood bearing an inscription. We noted two or three as follows : " The man wlio used the.se crutches was cured of sciatica in six week.s." " Peter Mackenzie went home and left his crutches behind, being cured of lumbago in two weeks." " These crutches were left by a man who was cured of gout in three weeks," and .so on. After resting and enjoying the view we returned to lunch, and then started in a carriage for a lake 9 miles di.stant. It is called " Minniewonka," or the Devil Lake, and is 18 miles long. On arriving at the lake we found it surrounded with snow-clad mountains, and also saw a comfortable little hotel. There were plenty of boats for fishing, and a small steam launch with .stcarA up. We .saw two trout <;i.i ':.%■ 'Hi 3^4 Canada. W: ;.ui that had been caught in the morning. One weighed 9, and the other 5 pounds. They were very much like those found in the Norwegian lakes. The catcher of these fish said that there were many in the lake over 30 pounds, and that he frequently caught such fish, but even that did not tempt us to try our hands, as we did not wish to lose our prestige as fishermen. The sun was bright and hot, and the lake like a mirror, so we preferred to admire the reflections, and then quieth* return to Banff. June 25//^, Saturday. — Another brilliant morning, with the mountains illuminated to perfection, and the whole panorama glorious, as viewed from the six sides of this hotel, which is designed with balconies on each side, commanding views of these wonderful mountains. After breakfast we strolled to the bridge over the How, from which wonderful views are seen, also mirror effects, reflecting the mountains and trees. A walk near the river for half an hour brought us to the lower sulphur springs and the cave pool. In a pretty cottage we found the caretaker and his wife, and soon learnt that he came from Bayswater, London, where he had been a coachman to a gentleman. A greater contrast with regard to any one's position in life could not well be imagined ; in London, living in Mews, probabh' in a back street with little fresh air, then to be located here without a neighbour for 2 miles, and .surrounded with snow mountains and rivers. The sulphur spring is just like the New Zealand gcy.ser, on a milder scale, the water springing from the bottom of a pool about 30 feet in diameter in a cave, at a temperature of about 80 , whereas in New Zealand the temperature is 212°. This place is the property of tlic Government, and reserved for Canada. 315 the use of invalids, or others who wish for sulphur water. The charge for a bath is 35 cents, but you may drink as much as you wish free. We only tried the drinking, and although it was warm, it was grateful after our walk. The six or seven years this place has been known is too little time to fill up the catalogue of names, and more especially as the Government has set aside 21 .square miles for a National Park, providing mountains to climb until the end of time, many of which have never had a human foot on the top, and a retreat where hard- worked brains may admire the wonders of Nature, and have any amount of both pure and sulphur water, and fresh air. It is said that thunderstorms and snakes arc not known at this altitude, 1,000 feet higher than Ben Nevis. June 26th, Sunday. — A brilliant day in this wonderful valle}', where there is much more to be seen than a passer through can possibly pretend to compass. Instead of going to bed we prepared to start at 10 o'clock for a ride of 2 nights and 2 days, which will not afford any great amusement. About 9 o'clock there was a good sunset effect. The sun had left the valley, a .sombre light remaining, but the mountains, with their snowy ridges, were illuminated with the most brilliant tints and the many-coloured ra\'s of the departing day. As a telegram announced that the train was an hour late, we enjoyed the time in looking at the view with the moon shining on the rivers. June 27///, Monday. — We awoke to find the mountains all gone, and the train plodding over a vast plain, and having something of the effect of being on a .ship in mid ocean, the grey-looking grass meeting the horizon in a purple mist. This vast expanse is 200 miles square. ;. I ^^ Canada. U'^-V li' '^y^.\ mi without citlu'i- bush or tree, and as flat as a biUiard table, beiiiL; ([uite uninhabited except for railway piH'poses. Soon after lo we came to the iinprovint;" town of Metlicine Mat, on thi' hanks of the fine river South Saskatchewan, which is crossed by a stout bridi;e. A lariie number of Indians, mostly of the Blackfeet tribe, inhabit this tlistrict, antl on pulliuLj up at the station there weri> man>' of these interestint;' and doomed people, dressed in w i Id-look iuLj and dirty costumes, and their ugly faces Iniuans. covered with paint. The children had yellow ; we presume that " yell oh ! " was more suitable to their tender age. At the end of the platform w as a wooden cage containing two bears, and hung on the cage is a neat frame with the following inscription : — " This grizzly bear is the property of the Medicine Hat General I Fospital, and is on exhibition for the benefit of that Institution. Any donation made by the travelling public in the box, or otherw ise, will be fully appreciated." The country gradually improved ; and although one could fe'0-il ■_) 4 y I Canada. 319 not say that cattle could be seen upon a thousand hills, at all events it would be correct to sa>' that " th(jusands of cattle were in the plains," for some of the ranches, both for cattle and horses, were immense, miles and miles in extent, with here and there a farmstead. \Vc came to a station called Dunmore, near which are most extensive coal mines, supplying thousands of miles with fuel in the absence of wood. At 10 o'clock wc reached Moo.segaw, a lively little place, where there were a number of people on the platform .seeing;- off a lot of -, ci'lehrated for its corn-^rowiuL;'. The soil looks {[uite l)lack, and is saiil ne\'er to recjuire any refreshment be\ond turning' over. About 2 o'clock a hun!4r\--lo()kin;4 mortal came into the can'ia<2,e, and announceil that as we were gointjj into the r.S.A.. b.e wished to examine our small lui^^a^c first. W'heti this was completed, and nothing' found to help I\lr. M'Kink)-, he invited us to visit the luggage van, or, as it is called here, the bag|^agc car. /////(• lotli, riinrsday. — Katint^ and sleepint:^ in the train we arrived at the city of " Flouropolis," now known as Miiineapoh's, at 6 in the mornint^. After a <;ood brcakfa.st at the railw a\' station, we started upon a tour of inspection, and as usual t;ot into a tram, and were soon surprised to find such a beautiful place, immensely wide streets, and roads w ith avenues of trees lcadin<:j through small parks, and past handsome and well-kept villas, with such gra.ss that it made one covet the secret or climate. Then the roses in full bloom, as well as other flowers, called to mind an improvement upon Cheltenham or Leamington. The next ride was to some lakes on high ground, the first one being Lake Harriet, a beautiful round piece of water about 4 miles in circumference, the banks covered with trees 'and studded with villas, and with a fine drive round the lake, quite a place you see described, but never expect to meet the reality. Lake Calhorcn was very C (ifUK/a. .Ui similar. On a hill between the tuo is Lake Wood Cemctcrj- it (lch--htful and poetic place to leave one's remains cou .vd' with a cold stone. Kc-aininjr the centre of the town or city, ue admired the •shops and fine buildin-s, notably the West Hotel, and in the same street the Masorn^c Temple, Free Librar>-, Club House, etc. We then conceived the idea of a visit to the city of St. Paul. 6 or 7 miles dista.it, and took our seats in the electric tram, called Interburan, paying ,0 cents each for the ride. ^ We crossed the iMississippi. and had (;ur first view of the tenant river which divides these two cities. The- mi-ht be one, if it were not for the river, as there are houses, sdiools. hos]Mtals, etc., all the wa> alonL,^ St. Paul's is an older place, consequently the streets are narrower, and the buildin-s not so fine, with the ex- ception of the City Hall, which is quite as fine as the Ixeds Town Hall. We had a walk throu-h the buildin- and found lifts to take us to any part. The free librarv in the same buildin- seemed to be well i)atronised, both for takint,^ books away, as ucll as rcadint,^ in the room. St. Paul's is on a hill 200 feet above the Mississippi ^^hkh skirts half the town. There are several brid-cs to the hills opposite. We crossed one of these, and had fine views. We then dined at a restaurant, uhere the \\aiter indicated to us another route by which to return to Minneapolis, pa.ssint,^ some fine mansions. We also saw the racecourse belon-ini,^ to the twin cities. The -rand stand is a wonderful buildin-, with a spire in the centre, and as large as tho.sc at 'nsom, Doncaster, and half a dozen others rolled into one. We finished our peregrina- tions by visiting the Minnehaha Falls, a very pretty place, with a deep gorge, and a well-laid-out park for the use of 21 M l-rr, -v i: K i N 2 2 G?;/.?./.?. the pcDjilc. VVc had some tea, and took our places in a sleeper bound for Chicai^o, well tired out. Our journt-y was most interestintj as loni;" as the liijlit lasted, first a fine sunset, and then moonlight redcctions on the Missis- sippi. The line runs aloni;" its banks for over 200 miles, the river continually increasing" in size, until it is more like a loni^ lake than a river, beini;" in some places 5 miles wide. y///j' \st, Friday. — We arrived in Chicago at 9 o'clock, after a comfortable nii;ht, havini; become by this time used to a railway life, as we had slept in slee])ers four nit^hts out of five that week. Securinj^ a room at the hui;e " Auditorium 1 lotel," facint;" Lake ]\Iichi;4an, we found, after ascendint^ in one of the lifts, the said room, number 828, on the ei;j,hth door, with a lake view, and lookini;" down the promenade for miles. Unfortunately the people, horses, and carriat;"es looked small from this height, and as for the lake, it does not look like a lake at all, but a sea. There are breakwaters with lighthouses, and waves dashing over, as well as large steamers, ships, and stcamtugs, and an)- quantit)' of other craft. It was here where Herbert Ingram, M.P. for Boston, England, and originator of the Illnstnxtcd Lo)ido)i Xci^- day from the West. They are sent by farmers ou consig,;. ment to "commi.ssion men," who negotiate their .sale. Immediately upon arrival they are fed and supjilied with fresh water. The principal buyers are four houses, who luue earned the soubriquet of the " Big J.'our," who slaughter and sell to purveyors of meat (for the name butcher is quite ignored), or prci)are " tin meat " of all descriptions, such a.s^an be found in most parts of the world. The Armour Canning Co 324 Canada. w is the best known in England, where its name can be seen in most grocers' shops. The numbers of cattle and pigs are the most startling, and each day are quoted in English newspapers, attracting little attention except to those interested. The numbers range daily from eight to fifteen thousand splendid-looking bullocks, and from ten to twenty thousand pigs, all black when alive. The arrivals are in the morning, and before four in the afternoon the whole arc converted into beef and pork. As pork concerns Christians more than Jews, we will describe piggy's end first. The poor piggies, in batches of one hundred, were driven up an inclined plane to the first storey — we going by another route to the place of execution, and directed to take a stand — from which we saw two men with leather boots and breeches among the pigs, placing a chain noose on the hind leg, which hauled the pig (by steam) over a wooden partition so quickly, there was not time for a " scream " before another man inserted a long knife, and the bleeding pig travelled on a few yards, was dropped into a long trough of boiling water, and pushed to the end of the trough, where it was thrown out by machinery on to a board, when another man put a double hook through its nose, fast to a chain, which pulled the dead pig into a machine with numbers of quickly revolving wheels and brushes, scraping the black pig into a white one in a few seconds, lunerging from the machine, it travelled along a counter, where four men made a post-iiiorteiii, sending the " inwards " to other men who prepare sausage skins, hearts, livers, etc., etc. The carcase was passed on to other men, who hung it up, and then split it down the back, each half of poor Canada. 1 -^ — will Ig piggy travelling by itself to the cool chamber to remain until the next day, when it would be examined by the Government inspector, and if sound, passed, to be after- wards cut up into loins, legs, etc, and packed into zinc cases, which are again packed in wooden boxes with ice, and then sent to the purveyors of meat, either in Chicago or other towns, even as far as New York. For a moment think that one set of men and machinery dispose of a hundred large live pigs about every fifteen minutes, and there are many duplicates of these. Now for the bullocks, and their end. Fifty are released from a pen where they have been quietly feeding, and are then driven to an inclined plane, where is standing a sedate- looking handsome bullock, wearing a leather head dress, and his business is to be a "Judas," and betray his brethren into following him into a long passage, where he walks through, but the followers are stopped by divisions being dropped down, inclosing two or three in each place, when they are immediately " polcaxed," and thrown out as- phyxiated on to the floor. Then chains are placed on the hind legs, and the carcase hauled up by machinery, the blood let out, the skin removed, the " inwards " dispo.sed of, and the back divided, the whole occupying about seven minutes, when the carcase starts on its journey to a cold store. This store is a wonderful sight to see, seven or eight thousand half bullocks hanging up in row.s, all fine beef. The appliances are scientific, and every operation is carried out with such rapidity, that there is not time to get up sympathy with any animal, all these operations being carried out with great cleanliness, precision, and order, so that the repulsivencss of witnessing such an amount of extintruishin"- animal life is greatly removed. A visit to the World's Fair park has given us a good idea ,26 La II a da. hsi' of what the exhibition will be in size ; but after hearint^ so much from American people as to its vastncss, and having seen Paris, London, etc., we must confess to some dis- appointment, perhaps through expecting too much. The buildings are large, with imposing architecture, and for the most part designed for special purposes. The frontage of the park is on the lake, which has piers, lighthouses, and some imitation ironclads. About eight miles noi.u, from the centre of the city, is Lincoln Park. On the banks of the lake there arc miles of well-wooded drives, also a large equestrian statue of General Grant, and a monument to commemorate a battle with Indians, and an excellent collection of wild animals and birds. \V' berevcr you go there are park.; — a \\ise provision for this large city, which is 2^\ miles from north to south, and 140 from east to west. Libby's Prison is interesting to Americans. It was removed from Richmond, Virginia, after having played an important part in the war between North and South. Whether, like the " Virgin's house " at Loretto, it came on wings as it now stands, is not stated, it being only notified " Libby's Prison, removed from Richmond, V." It is now used as a museum, containing all sorts of war implements and pictures of various engagements. We unfortunately came here just before July 4th, which prevented ourvisiting many manufactories — towit, Pullman's Car Works- for every place is clo.sed on the celebration of American Independence. The longer your stay the more impressive is the great- ness of the place, everything being on such a large .scale. Even doctors go in for quantities. In one building eighty- eight doctors and dentists have their offices, observing office hours. There is a proverb as old as the hills, Canada. ^0^7 hills, " Doctors differ " ; consequently in this buildint;- there must be many differences, with the advantage of being able to call in the dentist, to " extract " the points in difference, and " stop "' the contentions. July 5//;, Tncsday.'AMc left Chicago by the afternoon express, and stopped at Pullman Town, a most wonderful- looking place, much like a college, with all the grounds laid down in grass, and carpet beddings, plants and flowers, churches, chapels, schools, public free library, shops, and semi-detached houses of red brick, with terra-cotta embel- lishments, etc. About 12 o'clock we arrived at Detroit, where the whole train, sleepers, human and otherwise, were shipped on a ferry steamer, and conveyed across the straits to Windsor in Canada. Being awake, we saw the Custom officers come on board and examine the train. About 4.30 all the Niagara passengers got up ; and at 5 o'clock the train stopped in full view of the falls, fifteen minutes being allowed to get your fill of the view. The effect was quite startling in so suddenly coming u[)on this world's wonder, which everybody is familiar with, through books and pictures, and the first-rate panorama lately exhibited in London. All these are like seeing a dead man ; and the reality is the man with his life, his soul, his action, making an impression on your mind as voluminous as the waters. The fifteen minutes in the cool grey morning light passed like five, yet quite sufficient to produce its effect, and make you feel that every moment must be used in compas.sing the va.stness of the scene. In 5 minutes the train stopped again, and our journey was ended by a short ride in the omnibus, transferring us to Clifton House, a noble structure, placed in front of the falls on the Canada side. 328 Canada. i!r;« m. ife VV'c saw them under most favourable circumstances, a clear sky with bright sunshine, and not any wind to operate upon the large extra quantity of water coming from the much-flooded rivers and lakes, consequent upon a fort- niglit's rain. The first, or American Fail, is quite brown, while the middle, or Horseshoe Fall, is of fine emerald green, and the Canadian fall is brown, producing the effect of a fine emerald green in a garnet setting. The ever-changing lights during the day had given fresh interest. This evening the setting sun gave wonderful colours, and produced on the spray volumes of prismatic effects. One, most striking, was a rainbow, from the centre of the Horseshoe to the nearly full moon. Gradually the colour died out, leaving the moon in full possession, to convert from golden hues into pure silver ones this vast expanse of troubled waters. " Unstable as water, thou shalt not excel," hardly obtains here. After breakfa.st we chartered a carriage to visit the various points of interest, fir.st coming to the Suspension Bridge connecting V.R. with U.S.A., and, paying the toll, went to the centre, from which there is a wonderful view, both of the falls and the rapids. Entering the national park — both countries, having purchased all the property surrounding the falls, and converted it into public parks, have done a good work, for formerly all kinds of exactions were practised at vantage points, — we wended our way to America Falls, where, at the point protected by rails, you can stand on the very edge and look down, also look up the rapids as the w ater comes tearing along. Wending our way by the side of these rapids, vvc came to a suspension bridge, which took us to Goat Island, dividing the river, and forming two falls. Here arc also Canada. 3-9 foiiiul vantaL,^^ points for sccint; the Horseshoe Falls and the rapids riishin<^ towards the brink. The effect was indescribable. The rapids arc a wonderful si^jht, the water rushin^^ past in lar^c^e waves, boilin^^ and surgin^^ about 30 miles an hour, and the place where Captain Webb finished his earthl\- career. How a man could presume to swim such a place is past comprehension. However, he jxiid the penalty for his foolhardy venture. Ai^ain crossing to the Canadian side, we visited the Queen Victoria Park, in which is a hou.sc with a tower opposite the fall.s, but the view is little superior to the one from this window. Continuint,^ the drive, we crossed several suspension bridtjes and various islands, on the side of the Niagara river, round which the water dashed in a wonderful way, then ascended a hill, from ^\'hich there is a fine view of the river, w ith its waters rushing to the falls already white with foam. On this hill is an extraordinary freak of nature, a burning sulphur spring, with flames hot enough to consume anything coming in its wa}-. Watts' lilies, with slight alteration, might describe the effect : " I have been there, and still would go, It is like a little hell below." Not far from here, and commanding fine views, is a Roman Catholic convent. Returning to the hotel, we decided t(; visit the remaininfr sights on foot, as more time would be consumed ; and al.so took the advice which " Mr. IMiddlewick " gave to his son — " to see every think." A small steamer. Maid of the Mist, specially adapted for the purpose, makes tours to the Falls, sailing as near as possible. Presenting ourselves on board, a young man invited us into the cabin, and drcs.sed us in a full suit of t; iv, m'd itfefi 330 Canada. 'M "oils," finishing up with a lartjc waterproof cowl, havinij an o[)cning for the eyes and mouth. What objects we looked — somethint^ like the pearl divers in the coral sea I The si;4'nal for starting' was i^iven, and in a few minutes we were under the American I'alls, sufficiently near to receive delui^es of water ; then went to the Horseshoe, which required some little time, as the stream was so strong. The mii^ht)' rush of water, blindinL^ spray, and roar, impressed one with tlie immensity of this, the larL;'est fall in the world. Our next visit was to the Cave of the Winds, where the followin 00- Canada. lady by the hand, he descended a flij^ht of wooden steps, amidst showers of spray, we foUowini^, until a rock was reached in front of the fall, when the ^uide announced somethiiVj;' which could not be heard, and walked on with his char;j;e throut^h the thin ed^e of the fall, where the water ])attered us until we were delui;"ed and could hardly breathe. ProbabI)- this was one of the circular rainbows ; for we had to hold on to the rails, while the water battered our heads, rnakint; our eyes strike fire. Circular rainbows are excitintj, and thiuL^s " no pen can describe " ; but where the sublimity came in never occurred to us. Perhaps our minds were abstracted and unobservant. Getting behind the falls in the cave, we could see the mighty rush of water, and feel it too. The thickness of the wall of water is said to be 12 feet. Certainly some day- light came through it, but before there was much chance for observations, some of the wind from which the cave takes its name disturbed the course of the stream, deluging the dozen admirers with tons of water. To prevent being washed off" the floor we affectionateh' took hold of hands. Our sta)' was short, for a little of this went a long way. The next performance was getting to another edge of the fall by holding on to a pole, this being considered the climax, probably constituting the part which " must be seen to be understood and appreciated." The rush, bat- tering, and weight of water inspired sensations making you wish to be somewhere else. Regaining the platform, and shaking off the water like dogs, gave an opportunity for inspecting fellow-voyagers, who all looked like drowned rats. The old guide suggested we never had such a dollar's worth before. We agreed it was a cheap bath, having included in one a spray, shower douche, and waterfall, as well as massage. The next ques- Canada. '1 -^ 'I tion was ^\•hat nc tliou^iht of it? Our ansucr, that it was like the Man-ia-e Service, fini.shiii' probability that the pretty surroundings of Niagara Falls will be much changed, for on the American side efforts are being made to utili.se' tlic at present wasted power. July yt/i, Tlmysday.—W^ started at S o'clock by rail for Niagara, the original town, on Lake Ontario, 12 miles from the falls, going through a well-cultivated and very English- looking country. The train took us to the pier, ^^■hc'^xc ^c embarked on a fine steamer, and sailed on the calmest pos- sible lake for Toronto, where we latided .soon after 10.30, and adopted our usual plan of a tram ride. Consulting a police ofificer, he; indicated the belt tram, which took us f '3 ii^i m& W'l my i m fiiiiii liHt - ;tli' m ^ 1 I oj4 6^'ond villas, beint; palatial residences. There is a fine park. The Licutenant-(jovenior's resi- dence, law-courts, the universit)', and man\" other fine buildinL^s are built in stone. The whole place has an air of prosperit)', and is very English in apijcarance. After spendinija pleasant day, we embarked on a steamer for Kin;j;ston, sailing all night. The sunset o\er the lake was rich in colour, making everything look verj- prett)'. After supper we retired to our berths, and had a good slcei). ////)' 8/"//, Friday. — Arrived at Kingston about 5 o'clock, and breakfasted at 6. Kingston is a thriving town, with a population of about 20,ooo, and has the strongest fortification !n Canada. Fancy being invaded b}' the ^Xmericans, who would bring a few Chicago firc-cxtinguishing machines, and wipe the place out of existence ! None of the places, either in America or Canada, look to have much fight in their arrangements. We sailed away on the finest possible morning for Thou.sand Island Lake, which is American territory, and one of the prettiest combinations of water, rock, trees, and houses. These i,000 islands are of all conceivable sizes — some mere rocks, with a flagstaff bearing the stars and stripes, while others are of many acres, covered with fine trees and .shrubs, and all that are large enough having cottages, villas, or mansions, where the wealthy of New York and other cities retire for the summer, to bask in the sunshine, to boat, fish, and shoot. Canada. 335 This cxtciids for 30 miles, unci looks like ;i f;iiic>- picture ; for these residences seem to fit the islands, and ^reat archi- tectural taste and skill have been displa>'ed. These " every man his own islaml " seem to rejoice in names selected from I'aradise to the infernal rei^ions, and from lue to Diana, stuck on boards, on boathouses, or at the landini^-places. One called the Royal, with the stars and stri[)es n>in;4- over, ajjpearcd wa^i^ish. It seemed quite a fair)'-land trip, the steamer i^oint; so close we could see into the windows of these island-houses, while others were perched upon lii;j,h rocks towerin<:j far above us. On one or two of the larL:jer islands are immense summer hotels, with fine ;^ardens. In fact, all the islands have well-kept gardens. We rei^retted when the steamer suddenlx' turned a corner into the St. Lawrence River, taking us back to .solid business-lookin;4 little Canadian towns, and maL^nificent brid;j;"es, 2 miles in length, crossing this splendid river. The great object of our visit was to see the Rapids, and undergo some .sensations of awe. At Coteau — for all this part of Canada is still French in manner and language, never having changed since we took it from the French — we took on board the celebrated Indian pilot, Big John, who is said to have been a chief, and pictures represent him in a gaudy costume of skins, with a headdress of feathers. Being anxious to see the individual who was to have our lives in his hands, we kept a sharp look-out, and, to our minds, started without him, because there was not an)' one answering the description came on board ; so made inquiries of a little fat steward, who is a fine advertisement, " Good eating done here." He replied, in good Lancashire, " Summut mun ha' 'appened, then. Kum this wa-a-yl' when he indicated the Indian, Big John, in an old straw i:i mm if il-n: A 1 1 A Canada. hat, wliicli had probably bcloni^cd to one of the lost tribes. 1 Ic did not lock burdened with any amount of rcsponsibilit)-. Yet he took the ship to Montreal in t^ood style. Never judge by appearances ! The Rapids are thus described in a pamphlet given tcj us by the Navigation Comi)any :— " Coteau Rapids, a ver\' fine rapid, 2 miles in length. In some portions the current is very swift. Seven miles lower down we enter the Cedar Rapids. At first sight this rapid has the appearance of the ordinary rapids ; but when once the steamer has entered it, the turb'.^lent waters and pitching about render the passage verj" e.xciting. There is also a peculiar motion of the vessel, which seems like settling down, as she glides from one ledge to another. " Farther on we enter the Split Rock, so called from the enormous boulders at the entrance. A person unacquainted with the navigation of these rapids will alwa)'s involuntarily hold his breath until this ledge has been i)assetl, which is distinctlx' seen from the deck of the steamer. " At one time the steamer seems to be running directh' upon it : the full torrent rushes with frightful force and volume against it, and you are borne as if to certain de- struction ; but just when y-ablc, " This scries of 4 rajMcls is 1 1 miles in extent, and has a descent of 82 feet 6 incjics. " The last rapid is called the Lachine, a name t;-iven by the first settlers, who thought they had discovered the passage leading to Cliina. "The steamer glides down the rapid stream with increas- ing swiftness, denoting that a formidable rajjid is ahead. Stillness reigns on board, as the steam has been turned off. Away goes the steamer, driven by an irresistible current, carrying her to the first pitch of the most formidable and most difficult navigation. "The steamer, after emerging from its first i)itch, rises firmly on the surging billows flanked by rocks on each side, steers straight in the swift current guided by the steady eye of ' Big John,' who is at the lielm. " Conversation is impossible ; the grandeur and magnitude of the .scenes around on all sides inspire silence." We can describe in a {^w words the opinion and fc-elings of .some of these tourists, wlio have been frightened and sick, ejaculating, when the danger was i)ast, "'Thank God ; 1 won't come again ! " We enjoyed seeing this triumph of mind over matter in conveying three lumdred human souls through such troubled waters. The excitement was no sooner over than we came in full view of the Victoria liridge spanning the St. Lawrence, 2 miles in length, at a great height, and built at an immense cost, and, passing under, Montreal came in full view, with the prominent towers of Notre Dame and other cliurches and fine building.s. We were .soon landed, and commenced a promenade of the city ; but were .somewhat 338 Canada. P 1 Uv surprised to find ourselves in a much more French than Eni^h'sh city, with its French-named streets, signs, and French-speaking people, newspapers in French, and the familiar French street cries. Wc visited Notre Dame, which is said to be like its parent in Paris, only smaller. We sympathise with the smallncss, but it may, like "Topsy," grow. The child, however, is much plainer than its parent, and will require decorating. A service was going on, with a fairly good attendance for a week-day. Some of the old town is very quaint, wliile the new is imposing, with wide streets and splendid buildings, com- manding fine views of the mountains behind, and across one of the rivers, for Montreal is an island. The " Hotel Windsor " is the largest in the Dominion, and is a most imposing building. St. Lawrence Hall is also very large, with many others. July c)th, Saturday. — Wc started early by the Grand Trunk Railway, and remember, some years ago, when much speculation was going on in this line, how the question u.sed to be asked, " How's Trunks to-day ? " as though " Trunks " we-i-e a sick man. Crossing the St. Lawrence b)' the wonderful Victoria Bridge, our journey was, for the most part, on the shores of Lakes Champlain and George, both very prett}', and much frequented by Americans in summer. Arriving about noon at the head of the Lake, dinner was announced, when wc left the train, and adjourned to a steamer on the Lake, where a good dinner was served ; rather a novel proceeding, but useful under the circumstances. Early in the afternoon wc arrived at Saratoga, a place well known some way or other to most people, — noted for its mineral waters ; noted for its trunks ; noted for being Canada. 339 a great resort of pleasure and idleness, being a regular garden of Eden, where Eves come to tempt Adams ; noted for its monster hotels and fine shops, wherein are sold the noted Saratoga perfumes, which will even make Dinah a fragrant creature. Alighting from the cars, we inquired for the largest and best hotel, and were told the two largest — not much differ- ence in the size— were the "United States" and "Grand Union," each capable of providing for 1,500 people, sufficient for our small selves ; but the responsibilit>- rested with us which to choose, so we selected the nearest— the " United States "—being conducted to this establishment by a hand- somely dressed nigger, who looked, we imagined, at our travel-stained and threadbare costumes, and little kmcracrc, not having any Saratoga trunks wherein to carr>' ward- robes. Arriving at the hotel, to use a sporting phrase, "it rather knocked the wind out of us " to see such a place, standing on about four acres, three sides covered with most elaborate buildings, and the centre with forest trees, shrubs, and Italian gardening — a perfect paradise. When signing the register, we observed the last arrival was a marquise, family, and six servants, consequentl}- felt assured of being in the right place. The country is hilly, with trees and small lakes, the cit>- partaking of this, for the principal road or street has an avenue of trees wide apart, both sides lined with monster hotels, shops, etc. Half a mile down on the left-hand side is Congress Park— a prett}' enclosure, with covered pro- menades, cafe, bandstand, and pump-houses, wherein are the natural water-springs. The water people come here to drink before breakfast to cure all sorts of complaints. Vichy, Carlsbad, c tc, are all represented, as though Nature ■■■■I o- 40 Canada. Wi M '■ ■;!i; h;id provided this place with the advantasfcs of France, Germany, etc. Opposite the Congress Park is a drinking bar, with a notice, " You can drink as much Congress water, or any other sort you please, for 5 cents " ; but the tempting price failed to draw, for the place seemed empty. A little further up the hill is a garden with fountains, scats, etc., and a notice board : " Tonsorial College from Albany. Professor Neck performs Tonsal Osculations. You are invited." We did not accept the invitation, cal- culating what might happen if our collars were changed in fit ; so walked on, passing more hotels and houses, until the road led us into a cemetery, which explained at once the effect of all these springs and tonsorial evolutions. So this is the end of Saratoga, where many remain covered with tall obelisks of great cost, to be in keeping with a place where dollars flow like milk and honey. Retracing our steps, we arrived at the " United States Hotel " for dinner. It was a sight worth .seeing, for the dining-room is over 200 feet long and 40 feet wide, seating over 800 people at small tables ; and to wait upon these dressed-up guests are 170 black waiters, all with huge white collars and extensive white shirt-fronts — a nigger display worth seeing to study the facial freaks of nature ; .some with protruding mouths and big cars, others all eyes and high cheekbones, and most of them with white teeth, to be envied and coveted by many a fair one. July '0///, Sunday. — When the ladies turned out for church i' was like going to a flower show or fete. Such loud costumes arc .seldom .seen, or such elegance in the streets. There was one feature struck us much — that is, all the .shop windows were decorated w ith their respective wares, Canada. )4i and man}' were open for business, also newspapc" bo\'s were driving a good trade, and newspapers were openly taken into church. Even young girls purchased their paper. \Vc have only seen one Saratoga with its pleasures, and should commend some of our Engli.sh caterers to make a trip. The lesson would pay, to pick up a few notions. Afterwards wc started for New York, and had a pleasant trip on the banks of the Hudson River, taking up our quarters at the " Fifth Avenue Hotel." The weather was very hot ; but wc braved the " i, and visited many places — Wall Street and the Exchange, Brooklyn, and its wonderful bridge, the Central Park, etc., etc. We returned on the City of Nczu York, bound for Liverpool, then rail to Scarborough, thus ending a successful trip to many countries in going round the world. INDEX Aberutcen, 63 Airlic, Stcainshipi 121, 167 Ala-ka, 256, 271-93, 297, 301, 309 AlasKaii Seal Fishery, 2S7 Albany, 30-32, 340 Albany Pass, 130 Albert Victor, Prince, Death of, 61 Alligator River, 135 "Alligators," 136 Anialti, 151 Ambleside, 56 Anacortes, 274 Arabia, Desert of, 13 Arabia, Gulf of, 16, 17 Arabian Sea, 17, I S Aragura Sea, 133 ArmoiH- Canning Co , 323 Armstrong's Works, 10 Atago Yama, 210 Auckland, 101-4 Free Library, 102 ^laori Curiosities, 102 I\Iuscum, 102 Australia, 5, 11, 31 Australian l!ay of Hiscay, J2 Australii'n Bight, 32 A\on River, 70 ]5.\n-Ei.-MANUi:i!, Straiis of, 16 Badlam, Mr., 292 BaicC, 9, 10 Baiai, Castle of, 10 Bainbridge, Mr., of Newcastle, 94, 96 Baird Glacier, 27S Baker, Mount, 306 Ballarat, 40, 45 I'lotanical Gardens, 40 China Town, 43 College of Mines, 44 Gold Mine, 43 Infirmarj', 44 School of Art, 44 Banda Sea, 142, 143 Banff, 312 l^aranolT, 285 Barenda, 25S Barrier Island, 103 Barrier Reef, 123 Bavaria Poor Law, 245 Bay cf Bisca\', 30 Bear Creek, 310 Beaverfoot River, 31 1, 312 I5eliring Straits, 301 P>clla Bella, 275, 29 1 15ell Farii !I9 Bellgravc, 77 Bero Island, 143 Biba, 202 Big John, 335, 337 Bind Island, 129 Binglcy, 55 Biwa, Lake, 192, 201 Blackfeet Tribe, 316 Bluff Harbour, 57, 63 P.oston, 322 Botany Bay, 1 15 Bradford, 55, 86 Bridal Veil, 264 Bridgewater, 54 Brighton, 55 343 144 Index. .Mi- ' , : '-X K*]ii^:4''' Brisliaiu', 6i Hrisbanc River, 122 liiitish Columbia, 275, 297, 29S Brooklyn, ,54 1 Bruss'.'ls, 1 12 Buddhist Temples, i6j, 169, 173, 190, 197 Bullcr River, 7G Bull! Gorge, 115 Cairns, 126 Calhorcii, LaUr, 320 Calilornia, 247-70. 309 Caligula's Bridge, 10 Cambridge, 102 Canada, 295-341 Canadian-Pacific Railway, 302, 305, 312 Canterbury, 69 Canton, 158, 159, 163, 169, 170 Canton River, 158 Caji of Liberty, 262 Cajiri, 9, II Carpentaria, Gulf of, 132 Cascade Rapids, 336 Cateau, 335 Cave of the Winds, 330 Cedar Rapids, 336 Celebes, 144 Celebes Sea, 144 Ceylon, 19-25 Chalmers, Port, 68, 69 Champlain, Lake, 338 Chester, 168 Chiaia, 10 Chicago, 322, 325, 334 Chilcat, 283 Chilcat Indians, 283, 292, 301 Chilkoots, 292 China, 147-78, 187,211, 218, 337 China Sea, 145, 150 China, Voyage to, 119-45 Chinese Tortures, 164-7 Chislehurst Common, 298 Christchurch, 69, 70 Chuzcnji, 215, 2i6 Cicero's Villa, 10 Cirque dc (iavarnc, 309 City of New York, Slcainship, 341 Claremont Island, 1 28 Cle\-eland, 55 Clifton, 1 15 Cloisonne Ware, 229, 243 Cloudcsley, 71 Cloud's Rest, 262 Coblcntz, 191 Cockle's Pills, 94 Cogee, 1 10 Cokcr's Hotel, 69 Colombo, 21, 25-30 Columi)ia, 31 1 Columbia River, 268, 307, 310 Colunii)ian Mountains, 301 Columbus, Christopher, 29 Cook & Son, T., 52 Cook, Mount, 206 Cook's Straits, 78, 81 Cookstown Baj', 1 27 Coral Sea, 250 Coteau Rajiids, },},(i Cragieburn, 71 Crete, Island of, 12 Crosse and Blackwell, 283 d'Agnano, Lakk, to Daita Kivan, 203 Dalada Malegawd, 24 Darwin, Port of, 132, 133 Davidson Glacier, 283 Deilli, 140 Derwent River, 54. 56 Detroit. 327 Devil, Lake, 313 Discovery Passage, 275 Donald, 31 1 Donald Glacier, 310 Driard House, 297 Diinedin, 67-9 Dunmore, 319 Dunsmuir, 293, 298 Eastern and Australian Linf, 121 Eden, Mount, 102 Edgecombe, Mount, 286 Index. 345 lulinbiirpli, 68 r.l Capitaii, 264 Emu Dance, 136 F.inii Tribe, 140, 141 Eiiosliiinn, Island of, 206 Kjipinc: F'orest, 55 Erie, Lake, J3J Etna, Mount, 11, 206 Enio|)a Point, 7 Fairwf.atiiku Ranof, 2SS Fern Tree Bower, 56 Find lay Creek, 31 1 Flat Head Indians, 291 I'lintou, man, S4 Fort Simpson, 291 Frankland Isle, 126 Fraser River, 275, 305, 306 Frederick Sound, 27S, 290 Fujiyama, 206 Fusaro, 10 Fusaro, Lake, 10 Gastineau Channel, 2S0 Gcelong, 40 George, Lake, 33S Georgia, Gulf of, 275 Gibraltar, 7, 8 Glacier Bay, 288 Glacier Point, 263 Glacier Station, 308 Glasgow, 52, 67 Glenorchy, 55 Goat Island, 32S Gold Creek, 2S0 Goshen, Lake, 14 Graham's Reach, 275, 291 Grand Trunk Railway, 338 Grassmere, 71 Great Auk, 2S3 Grcnville Channel, 291 Grcj'mouth, 75 Hakom Mountains, 206 Half Dome, 262 Hampton Court Maze, 3 Hankoiv, Steamship, 157 Hargitt, E., 112 Harriet, Lake, 320 Heckmondwike, 55 Hector, 31:; Hermit Glaciei', 310 Hikone, 202 Hill & Sons, Organ Builder-, I 12 Hinderwell, 164 Hobart, 54, 55, 62 Hokitika, 70 Hong Kong, 121, 149-5S, 1A7 P^ank, 152 Happy Valley, 152 Jinrickshas, 152 Junks, 154 Sampans, 154 Shop signs, 156 Streets, 1 52 Tramways. 152 Hope Junction, 77 Hope Saddle, 77 Hoyii, 195 Hudson Bay Co., 276, 291, 301 Hudson River, 341 Huka Falls, 89 Hull, 63 Hutton Buscel, 104 IcEiiERCs, 2S8, 289 Icy Strait-s, 287, 2S9, 290 Idaho, Steamship, 2S9 Inarghua, 76 Ingram, Herbert, 322 Inspiration Point, 264 Invercargill, 63 Ismailia. 14-16 Japan, 63. 179-246 Japan, .Sea of, 178 Japanese Beaut}', 205 Cedars, 217 Cherry F(V<', 193,212 Dinner Party, 227 God "Diabutsu," 197, 207 Holy Trees, 211 Indo-no-kane, 187 Kitchen, 237 Lacquer, 238 r .< ,'?1' ^^ ;*•. ;46 Index. Japanese Musical In^lnimeiUs, 212 Temples, 1S5, lS6, iSS, KJO, 193, 197, KJ9 Tlieatre, 187 Tree " Kaiasaki," 202 Jei-ieho, 55 Jerusaliiii, 55 Jiiirickslias, 150, 152, 172, iSj, 185, 190, !(/), 205-20S, 237, 233, 241, 242 Johnstone's Straits, 275 Jolivant, 37 Just Proeession, 16.J | Jiunau, 2S0 lupiter and Venus, Transit of, 90 Kaiurawaya RivKU, 195 Kaiiusa Dance, 220 Kaniakura, 207 Kandy, 22, 24 Keighley, S6 Kenealy, Dr., 285 Kicking Horse Canon, 311 Kinj;ston, 64, 334 Kinnard, 74 Kioto, 191, 192, 196, 197 Kobe, 182 Kooli nay Valley, 31 1 Kwangtung, 151 Kyoto, 192, 231, 232, 236 i,.\ciiiNE Kai'ID, 337 Lake Wood Cemetery, 321 Langlnia, Pagoda ot", 173 Latliop, 265 Launceston, 53 Botanical Gardens, 56 Climate, 53 Exhibition, 53 Hotel Brisbane, 53 Public Park, 54 Rivers Esk, North and South, 53 St. David's Cathedral, 55 Lceuwin or Lioness, Cape, 30 Leith, 68 Leon Valley, 309 Lilil)y's Prison, 320 Lincoln Park, 326 Liverpoiil, 341 London, 16, 45, 52, 53, 6.J, 111, 112, 150, 212, 300, 320 London P>ridgi', 307 London Mission, 174 Longford, 76, 77 Lorctto, 326 Luzon, Island of, 145 Ly-ee-mom Pass, 151 Lynn Canal, 2S3 !\Iac.ii()N.\li> (;i.a( IKK, 310 Mackenzie, Peter, 313 .Mackenzie- Tilley, 308 M(U(l oj'tlic ML- 52 I Buildings, 38 Cabs, 38 I Charity Organisation, 39, 46 \ Christmas, 39 I Cole's Book Arcade, 47 j Cricket Match, 45 1 Feileral Palace Hotel, 38 I Free Libraiy, 46 I Gaol, 47 I Harbour, 37 Museum, 45 I No Poor Law, 46 Observatory, 39 St. Kilda, 45 St. Paul's Cathedral, 45 Spencer Street, 40 J lldcx. j4/ I^lL'lboiiriK' TraiiuvaySi 3S Zo(iliif,'itMl (Jardciis, .|6 IMclvill Islaiul, 133 Merced RivLT, 260, 261 McHsina, Straits of, 1 1 Miliashi, J17 Milan Catlictlral, 289 Miiulaiiao, Itlaml of, 144 Mindoro Island, 144 Miiidoro Straits, 145 Minneapolis, 320, 321 Minntliaha I'alls, 32 1 Minnii-Wonka, 313 Minnka Tree, 87 Mississippi River, 321 Molncca Straits, 143 Monday Island, 131 Mont iilatiL-, 206 Monte Xiirro, 10 Montreal, 336-8 Moosegaw, 319 Morcton !5ay, 122, 123 Mnko-jinia, 212 Mnsmce, A, 184, 227-9 Nagasaki, 181 Nagoya, 202 Nanianio, 293 Napier, 85, 86 Naples, 9-11, 16 Naples, Hay of, 9 Nara, 18S Negro Islands, 144 Nelson, 77 Nevada Falls, 262 New Caledonia, 109 New Guinea, 131 New Norfolk, 56 New South Wales, 105-17 Newtown, 55 New Westminster, 293, 298 New York, 325, 341 New Zealand, 45, 51, 52, 57, 59-104, '07. 259, 309 New Zealand Banking Co., 76 Ngawrihoe, 88 Niagara, 268, 327 Niagara Falls, 327-33 Niagara l'!i\'ei-, 32c) N'ikko, 215, 217, 218 Nile, 12-16 Nile Waters, 14, 16 Nio, 2ig Norfolk, 57, 283 Norfolk Island, 153 North Ami'riean Indians, 292 North P.end, 306 North Cape, 107 North Dome, 262 North Oueeiisland, 125 Northnniberland Islands, 1 24 North-west Trading Co., 2S3 Norway, 51, 53, 74, 78, 218, 309 Nunobiki, 183 Oaki.ands, 257 Oljan, 124 Ocaitiin, Steamship, 2.J5 ( )l)inenuitu, 93, 98 iiike, 191 Olympia, Mcjunt, 270, 301 Omaru, 69 Oneluinga I larlKjiir, 103 Ontario, Lake, 333 0/)liii; Steamship, 3, 4, 7, 10, 16, 37 Oregon, 268 Osaka Hay, 183, 185, 1S6 Oshima Islands, 246 Otago, 69 Oteira Gorge, 70-74 Otsti, 201 O.xford, loi, 102 O.\ford Forest, 10 1 Pacific Ockan, 62, 108, 143, 301 Pacific Steamers, 293 Palace of Julius Ctcsar, 10 Palace of Nero, 10 Palawan Island, 144 I'almerston, 133, 140 Paratleni^ia, 24, 25 Paramatta River, 116 Parattahy Junction, 54 Patterson's Glacier, 278 34«S /ndcx. N.t' r< m I'larl or Cantnii River, 15S rcctoris Sdiiiid, 7S I'ercy Island, 124 P< ril Straits, 2S4 I'il'tDl), "S I'i-sva-acis-, 2(>2 I'lytii'iiitli, 4 riyiiiniitii Harbour, 4 r(ini[)rii, () I'oiitcr's Pass, 70 Port Adtlaido May, JJ i'ortlaiid, 26S Portland-Ort'Kon, yi'J Port Said, 13, 14, 16 Portiifial, Coast of, () Posilipo, Ilill oi, 10 Pozziioli, 10 Piipct Sound, 270, 273 Pullman Car Works, 326 Pullman Town, 327 Pyrenees, 309 Qur.icx CiiARi.orTi; Sound, 7S, 291 Oucensland, 33 Queensland, Inland Sea of, 124 Queensland, North, 1 25 Oiiccii, Steamship, 273, 207 Queenstown, 64 Ouorn Tart. 1 1 1, 112 Raphael, 2S6 Raymond, 25S, 265 Red River, 320 Red Sea, 15, 16 Reefton, 75, 76 Rccfton, Stephenson's Hotel, 76 Revelstokc, 307 Rhine, 181. 191 Richmond, 55, 326 Richmond Islands, 124 Robinson Crusoe, 124 Rogers' Pass, 310 Rolleston, Mount, 72, 73 Renins, 213 Roscrcar, 53 Rotoiimliaiia, Steamship, 51 Rotorua, 93, 10 1 Roloru.i, Lake, 93 Russell, 107 SAcnAMKNTi) Canon, 2(i() St. Klias Ran(,'e, 290 St. Lawrence Riv,:r, 335, 337. 33S St. Paul, 321 St. Vincent Head, G Salfatara, 10 Salfatura Amphitheatre, 10 Salmon Cannery, 2S3 Sandy Hay, 57 Sandy Pdint, 139 .San Francisco, 249, 266 China IV)wn, 257 (;olden (iatc, 251, 252, 256, 267 Sar.itoKa, 33S-41 SatMima Ware, 232, 243 Scarborough, 104, 150, 341 Oliver's .Mount, 150 Whitl)\- Railway, 24 Selkirk Glacier, 309 Selkirks, 30S. 309, 310 Sentinel Dome, 262 Seven Isles of Iza, 246 Seymour Narrows, 275 Shakespeare's Beetle, loS Shameen Island, 159 Shanghai, 167, 171-S, 1S2 Shasta, Mount, 266, 267 ShcfliLld, S3 Shimonoseki, 181 Shintoism, 220 Shinto Temples, 220 Shippo Ware, 229 .Sliizouka, 203 Shoguns, 186, 210, 217 Shuswap Lakes, 306 Sierra Nevada, 260 Sinai, Mount, 15 Sissons, 267, 268 Sitka, 2S0, 2S4, 2S7 Sitkinc Tribe, 277 Skiddaw. 73 Sleepy Hollow, 77 Sorrento Puzzle-boxes, II South Saskatchewan River, 31 G Index. 349 Spain, 7 Spit Hawk's Hay, So Split K(K'i<, 33O Stc'pln.n, Mount, 312 Siu/, 13, 14 Sir/ Canal, 13, 14 Siimida River, 212 Swiss fJlacicrs, 309 Switzerland, 74, l!SS Sybil's Cave, 10 Sydney, 37, 51, IO9-17, 123, 143 Arts (Jallcry, 1 12 1-iotaiiical Gardens, 1 10 Catlicdrai, 1 10 Charity Ortranisation, 1 15 Free Library, 1 15 Harbour, 1 10 Heads, 1 15 Hosjiital, 1 15 Hotel IMetropolc, no Orpan. 112 Prices of Commoilities, 1 1 1 Quorn Tart, 111, 112 Staync, 1 17 Streets, III Town Hall, 1 12 Syracuse, 302 Tacoma, 269 'lai;j;ado, 201 Takanawa, 213 Tamar, 54 Tangicrs, 7 Tasmania, H, 45, 51-5S Taupe, 89 Taupe, I-ake, 87, 8S Tcgasu, 222 fcgasu Mausolciiin, 221 Temples, Anna-no-Koyane, 1S8 Choin, 193 Daibutsu, 190, 207 Diana, 10 Golden, 193 Hachiman, 207 Higashi Hong Wanji, 197 Kurodani. 200 Miidcra, 202 TiMiiplcH, Nan/enji, 199 Scrapis, 10 I Shimniodo, 201 Sliintd, 190 Silver, 201 ! SpriuR Hill, 213, 214 I TcniKiyi, iS'i i \'inus, 10 j Wakamiya, iSS Yanagidani, 197 Thames, 307 Thliuket Tribe, 277, 292 Three Kings Islands, 107 Tikitire, 96 '1 ilbury, 3 Timor Island, 140, 143 Timsah, 14 Togctsukyo Hridge, 196 Tokio, 208,215, 217, 234, 242 Toku (ilacier, 279, 2S3 Tongariro, 88 Terii, 221 Toronto, 333 Torn.'s Straits, 131 Totems, 277, 278, 285 Townsend, 274 Townsvillc, 125 Acacia fJardens, 125 Fruit, 125 Town, 125 TrcadwcU Mines, 279 Tuesday Island, 13 1 Tu-lu-la-wi, 263 Twelve Miles Avenue, 74 Union Steam Co., 104 I'ri-I.ung River, 177 Ushant, 5 Uyeno Park, 209 N'ancolvek. 283, 293, 302, 305 Vancouver Island, 275, 293, 297, 298 Venice of Japan, 1S5 Venice, the Ledo, 68 Venus and Jupiter, Transit of. 90 Vernal Falls, 262 Victoria, 29, 53 Victoria Bridge, 337 OD O Index. . "^h \A\ ^$:'i Victoria (Vancouver,), 274, 293, 297 298,301 Vienna Exhibition, 203 Viriiil's Tomb, 10 Virginia, 326 Waikato River, S9, 93, loi Wainiake i River, 71, 72 \Vaio'''i 99 Wairak.;, 89, 90, 93 Black Geyser, 91 ])luc Lake, 91 Boilers, 91 Cascade, 91 DeviTs Punch liowl, ()i Devil's Trumpet, 92 Donkey Engine, 9 1 Eagles' Nest, 91 Fairies" Bath, 91 Great Blowhole, 92 Great Champagne Caklron, 90 Great, in Eruption, 91 Green Hot Lakes, 93 Green Pool, 9: Lightning Fool, gi Mirror, 94 Muddy i'ool, ni Oil Ba»h, 91 Prir.e cf Wales' Feathers, 91 Te'ekereke Geyser, 91 Twill Geysers, 9 1 IVairarapa, Steamship, 104 Wakatipu Lake, 64 Wallscnd, 75 Washington, 269 Webb, Captain, 329 Wednesday- Island, 131 Wellington, 78 Government House, 81 Hospital, 81 Lunatic Asylum. 81 Parliament Buildings, Si Wellington, Mount, 55, 56, 62 Wcstclle, 55 Whakarewarcma River, 99 White Star Lino, 245 Wiegland, M. Auguste, 1 12 Willoughb}-, Dick, 2S9 Windsor, 327 Winnipeg, 319 Wrangel, 276, 278, 290 Wrestlers, The, 232 Yaami Hotel, 192 Yang-tsc-Kiang, 167, 177 Yeddo, 209, 214 Yellow Sea, 178 Yodogawa, 185 Yokohama, 1S3, 226, 302 York, 16S York Plains, 55 Yoscmite Vallej-, 257, 309 Elliot Slock, Ptiliiiiostcr Row, Loiitfon