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OREGON AND CALIFORNIA.

^MIS II^IPM^^^?,;^ M1SM)[0' ji'., C:(l}^)[i::

niJor UidiJjd HtnUi-y Ni w liuilinv.Un i'lu-.tt. 18'.'

A RIDE

OVEa THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS

OREGON AND CALIFORNIA.

GLANCE AT SOA'E OF THE TROPICAL ISLANDS,

INL'I.IIUINa TlIK

WEST INDIES AND THE SANDWICH ISLES.

BY THE HON. HENRY J. COKE.

Al.TIIUlt UK "VIKNNA IN 184S."

LONDON:

liiCHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET.

Publmf)rt in ®r)<tnai-s to J^n fnajrstg.

^CO

LosuDX ;

UUAIM^UUV AND liVANS, ['IIINTKIIH, HIlllErill A 111-

lo Tin;

lUGHT HON. THE KARL OF LEICESTER.

My dear Leioebtrk,

In (lodioating to you thin little volume, I avail mynolf of the
opportunity it affords to apologise for sundry faults which the vnlenient
might not othorwiso bo inclined to overlook. The many trifling incidents
which I have, perhaps too often, recorded, must, I otn aware, be unin-
torcsting to the general reader ; yet, nevertheless, may claim the attention
of a brother, and oven contribute to his amusement. My journal, from
beginning to end, was originally written exclusively for the perusal of my
friends ; and while I remind readers not included in this category, that
I am therefore obliged to crave their indulgence, I beg to caution them, at
the ^ame time, not to expect instruction where, at the most, they can only
find amusement. In further extenuation of its numerous defects, I may
add, that the keeping a journal at all vros by no means one of the lightest
labours connected with my travels. More than once, while crossing the
plains — a portion of my journey occupying nearly five months — I have
fallen asleep, from sheer exhaustion, the moment my day's work was done,
and have fouud in my hand, on waking the next morning, the untasted
food which I had forgotten to cat, even after fasting the whole of the
previous day. Under these circumstances, much that would have been
interesting may have escaped my observation, and much that I did see
never found its way into my note-book.

Make then evei-y allowance for the carelessness of the writing, remem-
bering that most of the road we travelled over is fully as dull as that
liroverbiolly barren ti-oct, — between Dan and Beersheba.

Believe me to be

Your affectionate brother,

THE AUTHOR.

l.oSDiix, Vfi-fmhtr, 1861.

■■

CONTKNTS.

CHAPTER r.

p
DifBculties of Starting. — Motives to ditto. — Chritrtmiw Day at Madeira.
— Barbmloeo. — Cnroline Lee. — Dignity Balls. — Sugar Mills.—
Ratooning. — Present Cultivation of the Cane. -St. Thomas. —
Puerto Rico. — Spanish Break fait. — San Domingo.- -Jacmol Harboui'.
• — Mifeerab!o Town.— Jacmel T'igs.— Imperial Army.— -Uniform of
the Troops. — tiencral State of the Country. —Jamaica. — Niggers
and Attorneys. — Work and Wages. — Past and Present Condition.
— Shooting Alligatoi-fl. — Speai-ing Fisb. — Port Antonio. — Voyage up
the River to Kingston. — Mr. Bacon's Letter to " Dear O'Shomosy."
— St. Jago do Cuba. — Trinidad de Cuba. — Juan Andre's Chateau.
— Washing before Dinner

CHAPTER 11.

Cuba. — Don Justo C. — Cock-fighting. — Political jealousy of the Cubans
and its Causes. — Present Miserable Condition of the Country and
its Prospects. — Causes which menace the Dominion of Spain. —
Sunday in Cuba. — Dinner at the American Consul's. — Ride to
Arima. — A Night in the Hen-roost. — Batabano. — Ethnological
Discussion between two American Gentlemen. — "All Britishers
have an Accent, a Peculiar way of Speaking." — Havannah by Rail-
road. — Public Execution. — Gte,rrotting. — A Hai'dened Sinner. —
Carnival at the Havannah. — Passage from Havannah to Charles-
town. — The Genus Snob as found in America ....

VIU

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER III.

Designation of our Travelling Party. — Start from St. Louis. — Equip-
ment. — Camp-stools and Carving knives. — Scenery of the Missouri.
— Fort Leavonwortli. — Prairie. — Anticipation and Fruition. — Moral
Character of Mules. — Village of Savannah. — The Prairie at Last ! —
Ginger Beer and Chocolate on the Plains. — Mormons going to the
Salt Lake. — Reach Council Bluffs. — Traders' Point. — Major Barrow.
— Horse-Racing on the Plains. — Leave the Major ....

CHAPTER IV.

Reach the Elk-Horn Feny. — Pleasures of Raft-building. — Mosquitos.
— Sickness in the Wilderness. — Doubtful how far we shall get. —
Mouldy Biscuit -dust and Rancid Ham. — Nest of Skunks. — Antelope
Venison washed down with muddy pond-water. — Battle with the
BuffcUos. — Dreams of Home. — Buffalo Beef and Sparkling Fountain-
water. — Mode of Brcaking-in young Mules, practised by the Mexican
Indians. — Desperate Quarrel. — Awful Storm, and a Night in the
Wilderness. — Speculations as to "where wo are." — Rattlesnake
capital eating.— Drooping Party, vicious Mules, grumbling Servants.
— Cheered by the Sight of Chimney Rock. — Arrive at Ash-Point by
swimming the Platte River. — Indian Lodges. — Mode of Preparing
a Dog feast by Mother and Child. — Breakfast with party of Traders.
— Arrival at Fort Larimie

113

CHAPTER V.

Dinner at the Quartermaster's. — Intelligent Yankee Officers. — Exchnngo
horses. — Terrific Storm. — Deserters from the Fort. — Badger Hunt.
— Wolf steals the Kettle. — Disaster with the Mules. — Mormonite
Encampment. — Deer Creek. — Poisonous Springs. — Herd of dead
Oxen. — Sweetwater River. — Independence Rock. — Travelling
Squabbles. — Antelopes. — Sage Hens.— More Squabbles. — We part
Company. — Taming a Mule. — Travellers from California. — William
rejoins us

161

CHAPTER VI.

South Puss. — Mules left to the Wolves. — Fall ill. — Travelling Mouse-
trap. — Big Sandy River. — More dead Oxen. — Inten.se Heat. —
Green River. — Become worse. — Brandroth's Pills. — We lose the
Mules. — Fall out with Rebecca. — Trout-fishing. — Trappers. —
Express from Oregon. — Character of the Mule, moral, intellectual,

CONTKNTS.

and social. — William's Adventure with a "grizzly Bai-," — Piue
Forest. — Anglo-Saxon Refiections.— Soda Springe. — Lose the Spoon
and (Ac Fork. — Fort Hall. — FalstaflF Redivivus. — 'I'liievish Propen-
sities of the Indiana.— Snake River. — Basaltic Rocks. — Sand and
Sage. — Emigrant Train 183

CHAPTER VII.

William's Story. — Salmon Spearing. — Snake River. — Disastrous
Crossing. — Danger. — Deatli. — Marvellous Escape. — Faa Seul, with
chorus of Wolves obligato.— Novel mode of wearing one's Shirt. —
Indian Village. — Extempore Canoe. — Recross Snake River. — Find
Indi.ans. — " Seized of my Goods and Chattels." — Resume Possession
thereof. — " A Trifling Mistake corrected." — Loss of my last Pistol.
—Hot Springs. — Boisee River. — Traffic. — Monetary Value of Per-
cussion-caps. — Seductions of Broiled Salmon. — Arrival at Fort
Boisfie. — A Samaritan in the Desert. — Mr. Craiyie ....

235

CH..PTER VITI.

Journey Resumed. — The Shothouc Tribe. — Malheur River, Night
Thoughts. — Toby " gives out." — Salmon Shooting. — Blessings of
Sunday. — Provisions become scarce. — Another chorus of Wolves.
— Aurora Boreali.-3. — -Grand Rond. — Different species of Fir — Lose
our sole remaining Tobacco-pipe. — Kayux Vocabulary. — Another
Euiigi-ant Train.— London Fog. — The Columbia.— Proceed on Foot.

— Henry Clarke joins us. — Norfolk Dumplings. The Quenelles.

— Shadow "gives out." — More Emigrants. — Indian Exquisite. —
JohnDay's River. — Narrow Escape. — TechutyRiver. — Sowete Soup.
—Ford the Tcchuty.— The Dalles at last 274

CHAPTER IX.

Leave the Dalles. — Magnificent Scenery. — American Settler. — Old
Gooseberry. — Yankee Patriots. — River Navigation. — Threatened
Beat-wreck. — More Patriotism. — The Church Militant. — " Cape
Horn." — Fort Vancouver. — Oregon City. — High price of Land and
Houses. — Valley of Willamet. — English and American Emigration
Policy contrasted. — Oregon Cathedral. — Embark for the Sandwich
Islands. — Detained in Baker's Bay. — Regret the Prairie.— Hurri-
cane. — Fleius, Rats, and Cockroaches. — Land at Honolulu. — Female
Equestrians. — TheMaro.— Cleanliness of the Natives. — Manufacture
of Kava an exception.- Tamehameha ITL- — Presented at Court. —
Awkward Accident. — "Royalty is Royalty."— Loohou Feast. —
Playful Flirtation.— Native Dancing. — Poe. — Flirtation resumed. —
Romantic Adventure. — " Me no bad." — Departure for California .

31(5

CONTENTH.

CHAPTER X.

Farewell to the Tropics. — Arrival at San Fmncisco. — Reflections von
extant. — Reclaimed Letter. — El Dorado Hotel. — Excellent Cuisine.
— The Judge and the Major. — English Gentlemen and English
Blackguards. — Trumps versus Fingers. — A Califoruian Hell. —
Sacramento. — Lynch-Law.— " Jim was a Britisher." — -Geographical
Location of Botany Bay. — Captain Sutter. — Reform and Revolution.
—Yankee " Smartness." — The Coachman's Stoiy. — Voj'age Home-
wards. — Conclusion 349

OREGON AND CALIFORNIA.

CHAPTER I.

Difficulties of Starting. — Motives to ditto. — Cliristmas-Day at Madeira. —
Rarbadoes. — Caroline Lee. — Dignity Balls. — Sugar Mills, — Ratooning.—
Present Cultivation of the Cane. — St. Thomas. — Puerto Rico. — Spanish
Breakfast. — San I/omingo. — .lacnicl Harbour. — Misrrablo Town. — Jacmcl
Pigs. — Imperial Army. — Unifoiin of the Troops. — General State of the
Country. — Jamaica. — Niggers and Attorneys. — Work and Wages. — Past and
Present Condition. — Shooting Alligators. — Spearing Fish. — Port Antonio.^
Voyage up the River to Kingston. — Mr. Bacon's Letter to " Dear O'Shomosy."
— St. Jago do Cuba. — Trinidad de Cuba. — Juan Andre's Chateau, — Washing
before Dinner.

December l%th, 1849. — What a serious thing is a
beginning ! When a beginning is once made, it is
very clear an ending must follow, sooner or later :
whether we will or not, an end there will be. Don't
tell me that you knew as much before ; so did I. I
only make the remark here to remind me, for my own
private consolation, that if J once get fairly started I
may leave the end to take care for itself. To begin —

2 TEVIOT STEAMER.

no matter what — is an event, a most important epoch
in the existence of all existing things. It is the
spark that fires the train, be it of half-a-dozen grains
or as many barrels — the herald that clears the Hsts
— the first word that solves the " to be" or " not to
be" of time as yet unflown. Not everything, but
very much depends on a beginning — confidence, for
instance, and consequently, perhaps, success. " All's
well that ends well" is a tolerably true dictum. Yet,
a good beginning is — what shall we say ? — bjtter
than a bad one. How much pleasanter, now, it
would be if I could say at the present moment —
" The weather is beautiful — always a pleasure to an
Englishman — the water is smooth, the passengers arc
delightful, and everything is 'all right,' in short."
How much pleasanter this than to be obliged to
confess the truth, and grumble because the " Teviot"
steamer is a slow boat, a dirty boat, a noisy boat, and
is full of slow people, dirty people, and noisy people.
Worse than this, we are making no progress whatever
towards an end. A regular Channel gale is blowing
dead in our teeth, and with a chain cable through
our nose, we are pitching and tossing, tossing and
pitching, opposite Yarmouth, in the Isle of Wight.
The Captain says — Heaven knows with what truth —

YARMOUTH, ISLE OP WIGHT. 8

that such gales at this time of year are apt to last a
fortnight. Now, in moderation, I am as fond of the
sight of my native land as any man, but having made
up my mind to lose sight of it for a time, I conceive
it is nothing more than natural to wish this grizzly,
drizzly, sneezy, freezy, blowing, comfortless scene
exchanged for the more genial climate of the tropics,
the land of the cypress and myrtle, for example,
where all save the spirit of man (clearly meaning
nigger) is divine.

In the meantime we are in a state which the
" great lexicographer" considered worse than imprison-
ment, inasmuch as a man incurs an additional evil
in the chance of being drowned. A pleasant reflection,
and particularly cheering to an individual suffering
under liabiUties to the aforesaid contingency. Well,
when we do get away it will be so much the more
agreeable ; and to be sure it is a mighty fine thing
to loose the apron-string for awhile, to change the
squirrel's cage in which we run round and round after
our own tails, for the girdle of mother earth, and
make the grand tour round that. Even though we
should shed a tear at parting, there is in the distance
a merry laugh and a hearty shake of the hand, that
bid the longed-for welcome on your return. Yes,

B 2

«^

4 WAITING FOR A WIND.

yes, in a few hours the waters of Biscay may reflect
more than one sorry countenance, and its waves may
waft to distant shores the outpourings of many a
troubled spirit. But the heyday will come again,
and the past, let us hope, shall be the constant source
of pleasure to the ever-coming future. This is some-
what sanguine, rather sentimental, and decidedly
discursive ; so let us to business.

We have seventy-five passengers on board, too
many foreigners by half to please me ; and what of
my fellow-countrymen there be, they are not prepos-
sessing specimens of Bull. Fortunately I have two

companions with me, one G , an old friend, the

other A , a new one. The cabins are not very

roomy, and the saloon less so ; it will be curious to
watch how we shall shake into our places. It looks
hopeless enough now ; we are stowed like pigs in a
pound, and for four weeks we may make the best of
one another, for together we are packed, for rough
and for smooth, to sink or swim, as the case may be.
Oh, for a fair wind, or I know what will happen
to me !

December 20th. — After lying thirty hours at anchor
we got away yesterday morning at seven, but wind
and tide happening to be the wrong way, we did not

tro far.

VOYAGE To MADEIRA. 5

The motion of the vessel has confined most

of us to our cabins. I have been stretched on my
beam-ends, feeling as if my inside was tied in a knot,
and not very certain that I was not engaged as Clown
in a pantomime, at one moment throwing a somersault,
with my heels where my head ought to be, and the
next — oh dear ! such a sinking, everything-going-
from-uuder-you-sort of sensation, that, on sober
consideration, I no longer wonder the ancients made
such slow progress in navigation, it is so very
unpleasant unless you are used to it.

To-day we are out of sight of land, and the next
we see, if all go well, will be Madeira. At noon our
latitude was 48° 51', being about the latitude of Brest.
We were in hopes that we should have been in the
Bay of Biscay , but it is fortunate that we were at
anchor on the l7th and 18 th, for we are passing
vessels without their topmasts, and bearing other
marks of the violence of the gale. The afternoon
was fine, and the bull-board was brought on deck.
This source of amusement does not seem likely to be
of a lasting nature, so I resolved not to exliaust its
charms too soon.

2lsL — Our run has been a pretty good one, the
wind being now in our favour, but the steamer is

6 PLEASURES AT SEA.

deep, and we do not make more than eight knots an
hour. I get up at seven o'clock, and find early
rising suits me very well ; the fact is, I could not
sleep much longer if I would, having two neighbours
in the next cabin who turn out about the same time.
One of them always wakes with a fit of yawning at
daylight, and goes off with "Oh ! oh! Ah dear ! Oh!
oh !" till one fancies that he has dislocated his jaws.
As the steward is called on all emergencies to remove
all portable nuisances, I think of vociferating for him
some morning to take away that big yawn ; then
perhaps my friend will take a hint. As for the other
man, he makes such strange noises when he cleans his
teeth, hawking with such violence, that I have once
or twice been on th(^ point of rushing in to see
whether he had not swallowed his tooth-brush. Upon
the whole he is the worse of the two, for the other
is good enough when asleep, but this fellow snores
in go painful a manner that if I had not peeped at
him one night through the panel I should have felt
pretty sure that he had gone to bed with his nose in a
pocket- vice.

On the morning of the 25th the first object that
met my eye on looking out of the port was land
within a few miles, on the beam ; this was the island

LAND. 7

of Porto Santo, and a most picturesque and refreshing
sight it was : such bold outUne, and such warmth of
colour ! On the larboard bow was the Dezertes
group, and about forty miles a-head Madeira loomed
indistinctly, with the tops of its high hills crowned
with heavy clouds. By the time I had dressed we
were close to the shore, and almost every one on
board was armed with a telescope, endeavouring to
make out objects which every minute were growing
more discernible. After sailing three or four miles
abreast of the island we rounded a prominent point,
and the town of Funchal suddenly presented itself to
the view. Situated on the side of the hill, the
uniformly white buildings rise one above the other,
from the very edge of the bay to a considerable
height above the sea. Natural and artificial terraces,
covered with vines, or planted as gardens, the fresh
verdure of the foliage, and the great variety of fruits
and flowers, indicate the excessive mildness of the
climate, and give great beauty to the scene. With
this before us it was no wonder that, after a week's
voyage, we were delighted to let go the anchor, jump
into the first shore-boat, and be able to stand on
terra firma without the bother of balancing, like a
soldier practising the goose step, first upon one leg.

8 MADEIRA.

then upon the other. The surf in the Bay of
Funchal is notoriously bad, and it was not till our
boat had been apparently all but swamped, and the
passengers thoroughly soaked, that we effected a
landing. Our party had not been five minutes on
shore before we were mounted on ponies of the most
Rosinante description, and were clattering at full
speed through the stony streets of the town, the
owners running behind, and holding on by the tails of
their steeds. The road up to the Convent, a spot
visited by every person who stays a day in Madeira,
is exceedingly beautiful ; and the commanding
view which opens upon you on reaching the first
halting-place, half way up the hill, the sea, and
the distant islands, are as pleasing to the eye of
one who has been a week on board ship as the
Bay of Naples is to the traveller in search of Italian
beauty.

The day was rather showery, but the light rain
made the atmosphere pleasantly cool, and the moist-
ened plants, such as only grow in hot houses in
England, the creepers, geraniums, and heliotrope,
gave forth delicious and freshened fragrance. At
three o'clock we dined with Mr. Davis, a friend of
one of our party. The dinner was every thing a

MADEIRA. 9

Christmas dinner ought to bo— excellent roast beef,
plum-pudding, and mince pies. The wine was such
as can only bo tasted in Madeira, and as I have not
the pleasure of knowing any one else in the island,
I may say without offence, such as could only be
tasted at Mr. Davis's table. How many different
sorts of Madeira were offered to tempt us I cannot
pretend to guess ; at first one seemed decidedly more
delicate in flavour than another, but by the time the
snowy veil was drawn from the polished face of the
mahogany, I am inclined to think that all sorts of
wine were equally, and, to coin a word, indiscrimi-
nably excellent.

At nine p.m. we steamed off, and I left Madeira
convinced that if a man was not virtually dead
before he got there, of all places in the world this
would be the most likely to revive him. Mind, I
am no physician, nor do I pretend to have made
accurate inquiries into the average mortality of
invalids. I have not considered particular instances
nor aggregate results, but merely observe, that in an
amiable mood, incident perhaps to the Christmas
dinner, I left Madeira with the impression that it
would be quite an agreeable thing to be seized with
a decline or some such chronic disease, for no other

!l!l'.

10 BARDADOEH.

reason than to have the pleasure of recovering in
that island.

January %th. — For five or six days after leaving
Madeira, wo thought ourselves unlucky in having
an adverse wind ; but wo have become more used
to each other's company, A monotonous routine
makes the time pass quickly, and we manage to amuse
ourselves pleasantly enough. The last night of the
old year wo had a grand carousal, and ushered in the
new one with bell-ringing and champagne punch.
Now, here we are on the other side of the Atlantic,
lying at anchor, in Carlisle Bay, Barbadoes. I say
we, I mean the steamer, for my companions and I
remained on board no longer than compelled, but,
being landed, proceeded directly to make the acquaint-
ance of the renowned Caroline Lee, or Miss Car'line,
as the niggers call her.

If Captain Marryat had not immortalised her long
ago, her exceeding amiability and monstrous starched
bandana must infallibly have done so some time or
other. At least, I know for one, that if I had never
so much as heard of " Peter Simple," I should have
been equally captivated with Miss Car'line. To
admire the cotton superstructure on her head, and
hear her talk good Ethiopian English, is one thing,

lliii

A SUGAR HILL.

but to drink hor sangarco (0 Jupiter ! what
nectar !) is another. For three weeks, remember,
I had imbibed nothing but mulled water, and was
very hot and very thirsty ; the green limes and
clear ice danced against one's lips to a tnily
pleasant tune, while the nutmogged beverage gurgled
down one's throat, a sweet libation to the lovely
Caroline. I had the good fortune to bo the bearer

of a parcel to one of the officers of the th, and

while I was meditating upon what might be the effects
of indulging in another jorum of sangaree, a phaeton
drove up, and the driver introduced himself as my
unknown friend. With great good nature, he offered

to take G and myself for a drive through the

island. " What should we go and see ?" " There
was nothing m the town worth seeing." " Did we
care about the garrison 1" Not much, " How about
the Governor V Oh ! certainly not. " Well, a sugar
mill V We had never seen a sugar mill, so away
we went in quest of a sugar mill, and in five
minutes we were out of the main street, of which
Bridge Town is composed. In the immediate vicinity
of the town the environs are rather pretty. But
as soon as you see beyond this, the country is
flat for some miles, till it. rises gradually into hills

U CULTURE OF SUGAR CANE.

on the north side of the island, which part — I
suppose from its unUkeness to that country — is called
Scotland. The mill we visited was one of the old-
fashioned sort, that is, unfurnished with vacuum
pans, &c. so that the process of crushing the cane,
boiling the juice, and draining oflf the molasses,
was comprehensible even to our unsugared mindii.
Throughout the island the motive power is wind. J.
believe there is no mill worked by steam, at least it
would be unnecessary, since the sea breeze blows
invariably in one direction, and always during the
greater part of the day. The advantage of this is,
of course, enormous, ten or twelve hands only being
required in a mill which is making about three
hogsheads of sugar a day.

Labour is here remarkably cheap; the blacks seldom
earn more than 3s. 6d. a week. But the soil is
almost the poorest in the West Indies ; the amount
of cultivation therefore requisite affords constant
and ample employment. Owing to the smallness of
the estates, the cane is cut about eleven months after
it is planted. In most of the other islands, where
the rjiLitates are larger, and they can afford the
cane tii^e to ripen, it is allowed to stand thirteen
months, and instead of being fresh planted every year

BARBADIAN NOTIONS. 13

is ratooned, or left to grow from the old roots, for
three, or as much as ten to fifteen years, in propor-
tion to the fertility of the soil. It is doubtful how
far the ratooninor svstem succeeds when carried to
any extent, but it is evident thai the cane does not
attain its full maturity under thirteen months.

The Barbadians hold their heads high, and talk
contemptuously of the other islands : they no doubt
possess many advantages, such as situation and
cheapness of labour ; they are also free from yellow
fever, though cholera and the small-pox are terrible
substitutes for that epidemic, and certainly more fatal
to the natives. Barbadoes suffers, too, severely from
hurricanes, and, upon the whole, I see nothing in the
country much calculated to invite expatriation, or
to compensate for the possibility of having your house
torn up by the roots by a tornado while taking your
siesta, and deposited in the middle of the Atlantic.

In the evening we dined at Endmoor, the house
of a fellow-passenger ; the party was both a large and
a merry one. The dinner, particularly the turtle-
soup, which would have defied the competition of a
thousand Francatelliib, or all the cooks of the " Ship
and Turtle," was excellent. Meat in a hot climate
is always tough, but the " long bitters," with which

14 "ORIGINAL POLKA."

a West Indian fortifies his stomach, do wonders for
the appetite, whatever they may do for the digestion.
When the party broke up, we took leave of one
of the best of hosts, and, jumping into some bug-
gies that were waiting at the door, drove off in high
spirits to that great desideratum of all fun-loving
travellers, a " dignity ball." On entering the ball
room the first thing that strikes one may possibly be
the band. Three niggers aro playing a fiddle, a
French horn, and tamboiine. The sound is not
unlike that of a large band tuning their instruments,
or amateur beginnors practising each a different
piece in the same apartment ; or perhaps it might
more justly be compared to an assembly of crow-
keepers zealously striving, individually, to drown
the noise made by all the rest : but discorilant as
are the sounds produced by these dark disciples of
Orpheus, their effect is irresistibly exhilarating, and
one cannot listen to them five minutes ere the
sympathy is conveyed from the organs of hearing to
those which are sometimes made to serve for dancing;.
The " Original Polka," or what is meant for it, is the
favourite tune. The darkest of the dark throws
herself into your arms, and away you hop, round and
round, and up and down the room, till there seems

CROCKERY.

to be no chance of either polka or dancers ever
coming to a stand-still. You offer to conduct your
partner to a seat ; no, she never heard of such a thing ;
on you go, and on you must go, till all the breath is
fairly danced out of your body. But it is hot work,
uncommonly hot work, and you fling yourself
down by the window, hoping for a minute's respite
to cool yourself. Ridiculous idea ! a quadrille — a
quadrille ! the cry is unanimous ; your partner, your
vis-a-vis, are frantic at your imbecility ; up you
stagger, but it is too hot, you cannot stand it, your
partner helps you off with your coat ; your lady-vis
bounds across the room, volunteers to take charge of
it, and at once puts it on over her white frock. The
dress is not becoming, but it is an amusing one, they
all laugh, and the excitement never flags ; with
redoubled vigour all hands, or, less nautically speaking,
all feet mark time with frightful energy, laughing,
singing, stamping — when hark ! what sound is that ?
a crash, a scream, a confusion, a halt. " What de
matter, Miss Penelope ?" " Oh dear ! oh lar I
garamighty ! if de niggars habcnt 'tamp so hard, all
de crockery and smeatmeat broke down 'tairs."
Unhappy climax ! Poor Miss Penelope ! tho shaking
of the upper floor had felled her jam pots and ginger

ST. THOMAS.

jars to the ground. But the interruption is a short
one ; the " Bird of Paradise" restores the merriment
of the party, and the shaking of the liouse threatens
another crash, when dayhght, that unceremonious
dissipator of dissipations, suddenly appears ; some of
the young ladies Jiave washing to do for the steamer,
so they must go, and we all go, hoping as we take
leave that another steamer will soon come, that
those who enjoy it may soon have another " dignity
ball."

On the 9th we left for St. Thomas, where we
arrived on the 13 th. The town is built on the
faces of three hills, and the white houses, with red
tiled roofs, look like so many Dutch toys. The
harbour is sheltered in such a manner that not a ship
nor a sign of the town is visible until the entrance is
reached. This retired position made it in former
days the favourite retreat of pirates and freebooters,
who frequented these seas. Tiirce or four dilapidated
towers, situated above the town, yet stand as emble-
matic monuments of the strength and decay of
Messrs. Bluebeard and Blackboard, their once dreaded
lords. At the present day, thank goodness, the
word pirate is almost a dead letter in the West
Indies. Increase of commerce has provided an

ST. THOMAS. 17

increased force for its protection, and the pretty
little cruisers and men-of-war brigs bearing the
English flag lie lazily at anchor in the forsaken
nests of tliose hornets, the very pictures of peace and
serenity.

St. Thomas, they say, is not in so flourishing a
condition as it has been ; its fate, however, is not so
precarious as that of many of the other islands. The
quantity of sugar it produces is comparatively incon-
siderable, but it derives a vast importance from its
central position ; and, second in size to no town but
the Havannah, it may be called the metropolis of
the West Indies. Strange enough, there are no
springs in the island, and the inhabitants depend
entirely on the rains for their supply of water. There
is a good hotel — Labord's ; our party dined here,
and found the food bad and dear ; the excuse was the
short notice we had given them to prepare it. Two
of our fellow passengers left us at this place, intending
to cross over to-night in a schooner to Santa Cruz,
distant about forty miles.

At eight P. M. we left St. Thomas, and reached
Puerto Rico the next morning at seven. While the
mails were being landed, we were allowed a couple of
hours to stretch our legs on shore. Two or three of

PUERTO KICO.

US breakfasted at a fontla in San Juan upon the
regular Spanish fare, omelette, olives, and chocolate.
The yellow- washed flat-roofed houses, with stone
balconies and open court-yards, might have passed
muster in a town of old Grenada. The soldiers are
fine-looking men, and, unlike our own troops in hot
countries, whose buttoned red coats are enough to give
one yellow fever to look at, they wear white cotton
jackets, and, off duty, straw hats. There seemed to
be a good market ; we had only just time to run
through it, load ourselves with green cocoa-nuts, and
hurry off to the steam'er. All day we kept the land
close on the larboard side ; the scenery was wild and
striking, the outline uneven, and the whole country
thickly wooded.

Yesterday we sighted the high land of San Domingo.
This morning, the 14th, we entered Jacmel harbour
at daylight. The vessel lay-to off the White Horse
Rocks, not being able to approach within two miles of
the town on account of a coral reef which runs across
the harbour. The passengers were not permitted to
land, but I managed to slip into the mail agent's
boat, and by this means got ashore. Never was
there such a miserable-looking place as the town of
Jacmel. The streets empty, the houses deserted,

JACMEL HARBOUR.

the inhabitants sordid and poverty-stricken ; and
above all, the pigs are the most emaciated and race-
horse-looking swine I ever beheld. With great
difficulty we got a thimble-full of coffee, for which
the exorbitant sum of a dollar was demanded, but
for which we, with great generosity, considering it is
the chief product of the island, paid sixpence. For
another sixpence we purchased some avocado {vulgd
alligator) pears, and three large pine-apples. Several
of his imperial coloured Majesty's troops kindly gave
us an opportunity of seeing them. Their uniform, or
rather multiform apparel, is quite in character with
the general burlesque of their appearance. One
rejoices in a helmet ; another in his own wool ; a
third with a coat deprived of one tail, trousers with
straps, but no boots or shoes ; indeed any odd mixture
of regimental clothing they have been able to scrape
together. It is a ludicrous sight, but one cannot help
reflecting that, whatever satisfaction it may be to one
nigger to march about in a red coat without a tail,
and to another to bear the title of Marquis of Ginger-
beer, and to another to wear a crown and be called
Emperor Zuluk, yet it is a melancholy thing that
to each and all, this satisfaction is purchased at the
expense of increasing poverty, demoralisation and

JAMAICA.

misery. The soil is no longer cultivated but to supply
the immcdicatc demands of nature. Commerce lias
ceased to confer its advantages, and when civilisation
no longer advances, its movement is too often a retro-
grade one. However, the experiment is worthy of
the age. There is no reason wh}"^ the black man should
not be his own master ; if his head does happen to
bo half an inch thicker than those of the pale faces —
what then ? his shins I believe are considerably more
tender— and after all " a man's a man for a' that."

1 5th. — Jamaica is now within a few miles ; its shores
are very fine. The blue mountains in the back-
ground are magnificent. Visions of romantic rides —
bird's-eye views — groves of palm-trees — terrible
cataracts — pellucid streams — monstrous reptiles — •
ring-tailed pigeons and long-tailed &c's., fill the mind
with majestic conceptions, which, while they eliminate
the remembrance of maritime pollution, fiiil not to
engender elysian prospects of terrestrial enjoyment !
I beg pardon for these altitudes, but one writes
a journal under such a variety of circumstances
that the style must sometimes depena on the
humour.

About twelve, opposite Kingston. Another hour
carries us through the narrow passage at Port Royal,

TAKING LEAVE. 21

past the palisades and alongside the coaling wharf
in Kingston harbour. Well-brushed hats — unhoused
umbrellas— clean shirts and shaven chins, all indicate
that the old steauier is about to deposit a large portion
of her hve cargo. The gang-board is placed — violent
shakings of hands are seen in every part of the vessel
— hopes are expressed that we are only parting " like
the scissors, to meet again." The unpleasant word is
said, and each goes " about his business " their voyage
ended, and probably their acquaintance too.

My friends G -, D , and myselfj possessed of

as large an allowance of fidgets as generally accrue to
persons just arrived at the end of a long voyage, had
to lounge about for a couple of hours at the Date Tree
Hall, an hotel, while our dinner was being got ready,
that is, while some one went to the market for vege-
tables, and the chickens were being killed and
plucked at home. Over the way was a billiard table ;
thither we went in search of amusement. But finding it
inconvenient to play in the dark, we submitted to the
entreaties of some fellow-passengers whom we met
there, 9Jid joined them in doing the agreeable to some
gracious scions of creolian feminality, who were, I
believe, daughters or nieces of the landlord. We
never questioned the right of our friends to introduce

22 UEl'AUTUUE OF THE TEVIOT.

US, but the family party seemed very happy to see us,
and the young ladies, by way of a courteous reception,
pianoed and squalled in French and Spanish, Avith an
ardour equal to soothing the savagest of natures.
One or two pas seuls were danced, and a vivacious
and good-humoured Frenchman sang " Mourir pour
hi Patrie," in which we all took part, together with the
piano, and a flute quite as much out of tune as any
other component sound of the discordant concert. In
this way the evening passed merrily enough, and it
was not till a late hour that we returned to our beds
at the " Date Tree."

The next day the " Teviot " left Jamaica for the
Havannah. It seemed strange to see her steam off
without us. I felt as melancholy as if I had been
parting from an old friend. The voyage across the
Atlantic is a long one, and in six weeks one cannot
help forming some attachments, if it be only for
planks and funnels.

On the 19th we hired two rickety vehicles, one for
ourselves, the other for our servants, and left
Kingston for Golden Grove, an estate belonging to
one of my friends. The roads were execrable, and
as only two could sit facing the horses, the third had
a sad time of it on the back seat, not half a foot wide.

GULDEN OUOVE. 5J3

By the time we got to Yallahs, .xinoteeii miles on our
journey, we were so bruised that wo determined to
go no farther that day. The inn or pubUc house,
however, was pre-occupied with a dignity ball, and
this obliged us to return a mile or two to a small
tavern off the road. The accommodation was good,
and the house clean. Close to this little tavern is a
wonderful cotton tree, measuring more than seventy
feet in circumference. The next morning, by half-
past seven, we were again en route. In the middle
of the day we stopped to lunch at Belvedere, and
about an hour after dark reached Golden Grove.
The latter part of the day it rained heavily, and the
roads were almost impassable, so that we did not get
our supper and a dry change before they were
wanted.

The report of our arrival was soon spread abroad.

A had been expected for some time. He had

never before visited his estate, and now that he was
come there was to be a general rejoicing. A number
of niggers assembled round the house, begging to see
him ; but, as it was late, they were told to go away,
and return in the morning. I never shall forget the
welcome these poor creatures gave their employer
when they saw him. Crowds collected about the

'21

QOFiDEN OKOVE NKQIIOFA

doors boforo daylight. Wlien he came out, they
scrambled and shouted, pushing each other out of
the way to shako hands with or speak to him.
" Hooray!" they screamed; " Hooray 1 Massa come to
see him nijrcrer." Poor A was quite overwhelmed.

'oo"-

He could not shako hands with all at once. " Shakey
hand, Massa, shakey hand wid you people. Wo no
African ; all Massa's Creoles born on de 'state ; shakey
hand," Gradually they grew more and more excited,
working themselves into that frantic state peculiar to

their race. One would seize hold of A 's hand,

and crying like a child, exhibit the most extravagant
expressions of delight. " Is dat you, Massa ? Dat
you, sar ? Me no beUevc me see mo massa. Me no
believe him. Eigh ! me too much pleased like devil.
Eigh 1 what you want, nigger ? Me see my massa."
One old woman endeavoured to embrace him. This
either his modesty or his good nature could not put
up with. " Eigh ! " croaked the old lady, " massa too
muchay handsome — buckra bery fat and handsome —
garamighty buckra bery fat." It was quite affecting
to witness such a cordial explosion of generous feeling.
For many years a proprietor of Golden Grove had
not been seen on his estate ; and, as on most other
estates where the proprietors have Iteen absent, the

JAMAICA ATTORNEYS. 85

agents, or attorneys, as they are called, held an
almost absolute sway. When this was the case, it
frctpiently happened that the ignorant and unprin-
cipled adventurers who had attained to the rank of
attorney, exorcised the most unjust severity, and
abused, to a shameful extent, the power they pos-
sessed over the negroes. Instances of this nature
are far less common than they were some years ago ;
yet the class of men employed to li;:s day in
Jamaica as attorneys, are deplorably wanting in
those qualifications which conduce to the improve-
ment of the labourer as well as that of the soil. It
is not to be wondered at, then, that where some real,
or, it may be, imaginary evil exists, in consequence
of this system, the negroes should hope for redress
by the presence of their rightful master.

Golden Grove is considered one of the model
estates of the island ; it covers about 2200 acres,
and lies in the valley of Plantain Garden River. The
house is in a low situation, and clumsily constructed.
Utihty, however, being the order of the day, its
proximity to the works is esteemed a greater recom-
mendation than comfort or a commanding prospect.
Near the house is a village containing a considerable
number of families, all employed on the estate. Just

NEGRO HABITATIONS.

now it happens to be crop-time, i. c, harvest, which
lasts in Jamaica from January to June, and the work
and wages are nearly double what they are during the
remainder of the year. In crop-time an able-bodied
negro receives from twelvepence to eighteenpence a
day, but his working hours are from three o'clock in
the morning till nine at night, on every day of the
week but Saturday. I have known them to continue
working all through the night, thus undergoing
fatigue that a European could not endure.

On this estate the negro habitations are reckoned
unusually good. For a cottage which holds a family
o,^ six, together with a small piece of ground, two
shillings a week is charged for rent. This is
easily paid where the family consists principally of
males ; but where there are neither husbands nor
sons, or where the men are too old or infirm to earn
wages, this rent falls heavily, and the means of sub-
sistence are hard to procure. In the days of slavery
the owners were compelled to provide for every man,
womaa, and child that belonged to them, whether
they were able to work or not. A hospital called
" the Hot-house,"' famished with every comfort, —
medicine, wholesome food, nurses, and doctors, — was
kept up upon every estate, and the sick or aged

NEGKO WAGES.

removed thither were always properly cared for. In
the preseix' day there is no substitute for this
system : the sickness of the negro is no longer a
matter of importance to his employer ; his death is
no longer so much money out of his owner's pocket ;
let him sicken, let him die, he is his own property ;
he is no loss to any but his own family. It does not
cost 200/., but 8d. a day, and that only when he
works, to supply his place. He has no relief from
poor's-rates, nor alms-houses, but in the day of his
destitution he is dependent on the grants of the
Parliament, or on the spontaneous productions of a
more hberal soil. Heaven forbid that I should be
an advocate for slavery ; I merely wish to institute a
comparison between the present and the former
state of the negro. There can be no doubt that
before the manumiss:"'i of slaves, erireme violence,
nay, outrageous acts of cruelty, were perpe'^'-ated
by the unbridled passions of the overseers. It is
unnecessary to adduce instances ; all who are interested
in this subject are famiUar with facts too disgusting
for repetition. Education was unheard of ; religion,
if not actually discountenanced, was certainly not
inculcated by the innumerable false doctrines, nor
by the reprobate examples aftbrded by the whites.

28 IMPROVED CONDITION.

In short, the i-ace was not only debased by an
ignominious servitude, but was considered and treated
as one of inferior animals — as beasts — created for
servile purposes ; possessing only mental and physical
faculties ; indifferent to any state, however degraded,
in which it might please the white man to place ii.
Such, however, is far from being the case now iji'i .
the emancipation took place, both the social and the
moral condition of the negro has been gradually
ameliorating. Justice is now meted to the black in
as fair a proportion as to the white man. We all
know what is the effect of education alone on the
uncultivated mind of the savage. Artificial wants
are estabhshed, and with them the necessity of sup-
plying those wants by voluntary labour. Every
parish has its school ; and let a stranger attend
church on Sunday, I will answer for it he shall be
struck with the numbers and the attention of the
congregation ; and if he reflect on the normal • h>
dition of the African, or on his subsequent one as
a slave, and now hears Inm raise his voice — loudly
and heartily too — in the praises of his Maker, lio
will rejoice, if he be an Englishman, that his country
has had the glorious privilege of making the black
man free.

•%

PROFIT AND LOSS. 29

2,C)th. — For the last three or four clays we have
been visiting the neighbouring estates of Holland,
Amity Hall, Bachelor's Pen, &c., initiating ourselves
into the mysteries of sugar-making and rum-distilUng.
Notwithstanding that free trade has reduced the price
of sugar some 6/. or 8/. a hogshead, we still think
that a good suga'' estate is a profitable concern,
wliatevcr people may say to the contrary. Think of
land that returns 15/., the present price of a hogs-
head of sugar, per acre, with no more outlay (upon
the land) than the expense of spreading the trash or
leaves, and crushed parts of the cane, and the cutting
and carrying it when grown ; for there is here no
sowing of seed, the plants are ratoons of twenty
years' standing. Most of the mills, too, are worked
by water-power, and where steam is used the crushed
cane serves as the only fuel. The agents, of course,
crv out against free trade, and woidd like to see
what they call an equaUsing duty of fourteen or
fifteen shillings on slave-grown sugar ; for not till
then, say they, will they bo able to compete with
their neighbours.

27th. — To-day I rode down, with ray rifle, to
Holland Bay, hoping to get a shot at an aUigator.
Near the sea-side is an enormous tract of land, which

30 HOLLAND BAY.

was formerly a densely-wooded morass, but owing to
an incursion of the sea every vestige of vegetation is
now completely destroyed. Enormous trees, withered
'%v(\ blanched, stand like an army of skeletons, or
r.t like white-faced invalids with their feet in the
dirty salt water. Immediately at the edge of high
water-mark everything is green, so that the dead
forest, surrounded by the hve, looks like wintv-i in
the midst of summer. It is a fit resort for all the
reptiles of the country. Having heard that alligators
are very partial to sucking pigs, I had provided
myself with one of these articles, and sat patiently
in the branches of a mangrove tree at the brink of
the pool, keeping a sharp look-out, with my rifle on
my knees ; while a young nigger, whom I had hired
expressly for the occasion, amused himself and
" summoned the spirits from the vasty deep," by
provoking continuous squeaks from the young pig.
Grunt followed grunt, and squeak succeeded to
squeak, till the porker grew hoarse with his exertions
— still no visible effect was produced on the alligators.
At length, when I was nearly in a fever from the
stinging of all the mosquitoes in the swamp, the
nigger, who had hitherto done nothing but laugh at
the pig, suddenly stopped, and pointing to something

ALLIGATORS.

in tlio water, said — " Eigh ! alligator — shoot, massa."
For my part I could see nothing, but what I supposed
to be a dead log, and would not be persuaded that
the object on the surface of the pool, although within
fifteen yards of me. was anything but a dead log.
" Eigh ! Garamighty shoot, massa," the young nigger
whispered ; but I had no intention of the kind. Soon,
however, I observed that the log had slightly altered
its position, and it was clearly moving, though almost
imperceptibly. Half doubting that I was wasting a
charge of powder, I took a steady aim and fired. At
the instant of the flash, the monster sprang half out
of the water, showed the white of his belly, and v/ith
a tremendous splash disappeared from our sight.
The nigger assured me that he was dead, and ran
off to some houses close at hand to fetch a canoe.
When the canoe came we paddled about over the
place where the shot was fired ; but though we
could see to the bottom, we saw no alligator. The
boy was as much disappointed as I, and could only
exclaim, " Eigh ! What dam big alligator — top two,
tree day — him come up when him gall broke." It
was provoking not to have bagged my game, but I
had no idea of stopping two or three days in the
swamps till "him gall broke;" so I rode back to

32 COONAH COONAH MOUNTAINS.

Golden Grove, determined, if possible, to bag one of
these big reptiles another day.

30^/*. — The day being fine, we determined to make
an expedition over the Coonah Coonah mountains, to
visit Port Antonio, and the district called Portland.
Getting on our horses, and taking three or four
maroons with us to clear the path over the hills, we
set out at half-past eight (it should have been half-
past six), and reached Bath in less than an hour.

Here we met Mr. S , who invited us to halt, and

,'^ave us a refreshing drink of sparkling hock and
sj'ving T»'ater. After this invigorator we proceeded a
mile or so, and then commenced the ascent. We
found the path very rough ; here and there a large
tree had fallen across it, so that it was with great
difficulty we managed to lead our horses round the
roots, or by taking ofi" the saddles enabled them to
pass underneath the trunk. Some deep holes made
by the rain obhged us to keep a look out where the
horses put their feet, for in many places a false step
would have given beast and rider a roll of several
hundred feet. As we ascended, we observed a
considerable change in the vegetation. Parasitical and
orchidaceous plants grew^ in great luxuriance ; their
rope-like roots dropped from the high branches to

. SCENERY OP THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. 33

the ground, and were entwined with endless varieties
of creepers, which again clomb upwards, gracefully
concealing the unsightliness of their naturally formed
ladders. These festoons, woven together in rank
exuberance, fashioned themselves above into a
verdant canopy, which effectually excluded the
scorching rays of the sun. Among the most re-
markable objects of this vegetable kingdom is the
tree fern. Its stem is sometimes between forty and
fifty feet high ; from the top it throws out delicate
leafy branches, drooping downwards, and giving it
all the appearance of a small and beautiful palm.
But delightful as are these " shadowy deserts," there
is a terrible absence of animal life. Hardly a bird
or beast is to be seen. A few days since we rode
into the woods above Bachelor's Pen, and saAv great
numbers of parrots and humming-birds, but to-day
we have seen nothing of the kind ; the only traces
of any living thing being a patch of ground, where
some wild pigs had been rooting with their noses,
and a black snake, which one of our horses trod on
in the path. When we got to the top of the pass
just at the foot of the Blue Mountains, and about
3000 feet above the level of the sea, we dismounted,
and walked nearly to the bottom of the hill, until

PlC-NlC.

we came to a lovely spot, where two or three
tributary streams empty themselves into the Rio
Grande. At this point, a discussion arose as to

where it would be advisable to lunch. A and

I declared for picnicking by the river side ; G

and Mr. Forbes, A 's agent, on the other hand,

demonstrated the impossibility of our horses feeding
anywhere but in a stable. At last we decided that,
as the sum2")tci' mule was not in sight, wo had better
wait till the lunch caught us up, so we chose
a shady mango by the water's edge, and fa?ite
de mieiuv, busied ourselves, in rather a sulky
humour, with making a fire, and looking on at some
maroons, who came to catch fish for us. Unfortu-
nately it was rather late in the day to have nmcli
sport, but it was amusing to see them dive and
search, Hke otters, under all the large stones, for
their prey. When they find a fish, they pin it down
with an iron-headed lance-wood spear, and bring it
up in their hands.

For nearly two hoiu's we wore out our patience in
this way, when the mule came up, and with a keen
appetite we hastened to display the contents of the
panniers. A silent and serious attack was for some
minutes kept up on cold tongues and chickens, and

MAROON CUTLASS PLAYING,

toppiii>^' up with a waddin<^ of hard-boiled eggs and
cherry-brandy, we hghtcd our pipes, and consigned
the fragments of the repast to the tender mercies of
the maroons. Without much ceremony they went
the best way to work to save themselves the trouble
of repacking the hampers. One old man got posses-
sion of the brandy bottle, and soon after, exhibited,
upon the strength of its contents, some fantastical
feats with a cutlass ; he ended by putting the point
to his stomach, and falling down as if he intended to
kill himself. It was, however, only done in joke, but
he showed great dexterity in the use of his weapon
and offered, if I would give him four dollars (about
twice the price of a cutlass), to break it on his naked
body at a single blow. I took him at his word, that
is, I did not pay for my incredulity. He told us
that all maroons were made to practise while young
the use of the cutlass, and that none of them ever
accept employment where any other implement is
used.

Leaving Altamont, the name of our luncheon
ground, we rode past what had once been a tolerably
largo settlement, but was now reduced by the
miserable effects of famine and poverty to a few
huts, the property of a Scotchwoman and some five

D 2

3(5 A NIGHT-RIDE.

or six half-grown cliiklren. All tlic other families
had died from the effects of climate, proving, as has
been done in many other instances, that the European
cannot stand the labour necessary to his maintenance
under a tropical sun. At dark we found ourselves
in a flat swampy place, called Seaman's Valley,
having ten miles to ride before we reached Antonio.
Mr. Forbes, to make matters better, did not know
the road, and it was some tim.e before we were able
to procure a guide. Following' our leader, who was
on foot, we jogged on at a slow pace, keeping one
behind another in Indian file ; and, save the stars Pid
myriads of fire-flies, all w\is as black as pitch. When,
every now and then, we came to a thick wood wdiere
it was impossible to see your own hand if you held it
up, the man in front would call out, " take care, a
very nasty place ; keep to the right," or, " to the
left." At last, the slowness of the pace and the heat
of the night made me feel very sleepy, and, notwith-
standing the constant caution received to *' look out,"
I found myself bowing every minute most politely to
my horse's head. The loud croak of an old bull-frog,
or the stumbling of my animal, reminded me with a
start that I had actually fallen fast asleep, and I was
truly delighted to have my attention called to the

SCENEUY AND CURIOSITIES. .'57

iiiglitcapi)cd heads, that poked out with a liglited
candle from ahnost every window, to observe the
unusual sight of so large a cavalcade entering Port

Antonio. The inn was full, but Thomas, A 'a

servant, had secured board and lodging in another

house. G , who was knocked up with the journey,

took nothing but tea, and went to bed directly.

Slst. — After breakfast we went to look at a cave
close to the town, but, as the hero in " Used Up "
might truly have remarked, there was " nothing in
it," except thousands of bats and many ship-loads of
guano. Besides this one, there are several large
caves in the island, both on the coast and in the
interior. Some of them have never been explored,
and are, consequently, supposed to penetrate more
than three miles underground. On a fine day Cuba
is visible from the hills near Antonio ; to-day it w^as

not so. As G ■ was still unwell, he and A

preferred travelling in a carriage, and Mr. Forbes .ook
me in a gig. The view of the town from the further
side of the bay is pretty, and makes a picturesque
foreground to the fine range of Blue Mountains in the
distance. Our journey was tame work after yesterday,
the road winds along the coast near the sea, occa-
sionally making a great bend to avoid the frequent

.'JS HAUDAItlAN HOSl'ITAI.ITY.

little coves and landlocked harbours which indcjit this
end of the island. Most of the estates wo passed
thronj^h were out of cultivation, and overgrown with
brushwood. The few that still bear cane are not
more than sufficient to afford sugar for the con-
sumption of the district.

At river we stopped to bait ourselves and

, the proprietor, was very civil ;

in,

horses. Mr. S—

Mrs. S , his wife, a bland, timid little ^

was I'ather put out, I fear, by our visit ; she was very
anxious that things should " go off" well, and I
suspect the luncheon must have been a severe trial
to her. The servant, an antediluvian-looking nigger,
would do everything wrong, and would not hear any

of Mrs. S 's whispers to put him right. Conceive

how provoking, that an old woolly-headed rascal
should set a dish of potatoes at the head of the table,
under a big cover, and a quarter of lamb in the
middle of the table, crowned as it were with the
cover of a vegetable dish ; and actually put the
dessert on, when there was a whole pastry-cook's
shop to be admired. Upon my word ! after a week's
rehearsal, too, no doubt! Well, well, old servants

will be old servants, though Mrs. S thinks — at

least I should not wonder if she did — that it is very

AN ODD MAN. '^^

iiiiiiioral to j^row old aiitl tlo such wicked things, m
tu wait at dinner in tliat sort of way. There
luii)pencd to bo a very odd man " droi>|)ed in," to
call while Ave were there. Ho secnK^d quite taken
aback at meeting us ; he was such a very mild man ;
his voice, when he did si)eak, was so low that I could
not help thinking it must have come out of the back
uf his neck. For the life' 'of him ho could not
remember the names of i)laces or p( u})le ; he called
Forbes, Mc Cornock ; and Golden Grove, Hector
Uiver, though the names are not the least similar or

synonymous. Had we sat there long, A , who

is the funniest little fellow in the Avorkl, would have
made mc laugh at this man I am sure ; but poor

G was beginning to show symptoms of fever,

and we were obliged to be moving homewards.

Fcbrunrj/ Id. — G is no better ; Thomas is

taken ill ; Crabb, the other servant, and A , arc

both complaining, and neither of them looking pretty.
The Doctor arrives from Bath.

5t/i. — This is dull work for me. The whole party

are in their beds with fever. G and Thomas

seriously ill. Dr. Ferguson is sent for from Kingston.
I generally amuse myself alligator hunting ; to-day I
nearly lode over a very large one lying on the bank.

40 ALLIGATOR HUNTING.

but he was in the river before I saw him. I hit him
the first shot, and hardly had time to load before he
rose again and swam straight at me ; I had two bullets
in ray rifle and put them both into his head ; this, I
think, must have done for him, he did not appear
again. Another one I found asleep, and secured for
a stuffed specimen.

^tJi. — As the invalids were all better, and the worst
of them pronounced to be quite out of danger, I took
leave of Golden Grove, wishing to make the best use
of my time till the steamer sailed on the 16th. My
heavy baggage (two portmanteaus) preceded me in a
wain, drawn by eight oxen ! and Mr. Forbes drove
me to Morant Bay. Here I borrowed a drogger, a
boat of twenty tons, and set sail for Kingston. My
crew consisted of a black captain, a white first -lieu-
ter^nt, and two able-bodied nigger seamen. We had
a good breeze out of the harbour, which lasted to
Yallahs Point. Till twelve o'clock I took the helm,
then piped to dinner, or, rather, to salt-fish and bis-
cuit, soaked in the melted fat of sah pork.

The sun was awfully hot, and I was sadly burnt.
Towards evening the wind died away, and it was just
sunset as we passed Port Royal. I began to think
what I would have for supper at the Bate Tree, and

KINGSTON.

how much I should enjoy my bed, when the captain,
to my astonishment, offered me more salt pork, and
observed, we should get in by good time in the
morning. " What ! you surely don't mean to anchor
to-night^" 1 asked. "Yes, Massa, can't see 'em
'tales must 'top to-night." This was a h.ce, but
thc:^e was nothing left but to " prick for a soft plank,"
and with a bag of peas for a pillow consign myself
to slumber and the cock-roaches. After a moderate
night I was awoke by the day-hght gun from the
flag-ship ; weighed anchor, and with a light breeze
landed at Kingston at 10 a.m. The "Teviot" was
lying alongside the wharf when I arrived, and, meet-
ing the mail-agent, I went to the office to see my old
frland the captain. There was a party of Kingston
gossips in the room. " Well," said one, " shocking

thing isn't it, poor Mr. G dying so soon." 'I don't

wonder," said another, before I hp.'^ time to speak,
" How could he be so foolish as t(' expose himself as
he has done, sitting whole days in a swamp watching
for alligators." " Oh, dear," said a third, " that's not
altogether the cause of his illness. The fict is, he is
a bad subject ; such a stout gentleman as Mr. G., is
a very bad subject." " Stop, stop, you are mistaken,"
said I ; "you are caluniuiating my friends by whole-

sale

SPANISH TOWN.

Mr. G is as thin as a \vhipj)iiig-post, and

never sat a day in a swamp in his whole life. Mr.

A is stout enough if you like, and none the worse

subject for that — but I advise you not to let him
hear you say that his stoutness is likely to prove
fatal ; he would not like it, I assure you." ' Nor
any one else," quoth the captain. The gossips looked
at me as much as to say, who the deuce are you ?
Leaving them to solve the pi-oblem, I joined the
captain, and dined with him on board the steaniei".

By an early train on the 11 th I left Kingston for
Spanish Town, where I hired a gig from Mr. Grant,
the hor"„-dealer. At breakfast, in the cofiee-roora,
before starting, my attention was attracted by a
cleanish-looking white gentleman swinging in a
Yankee rocking-chair in the middle of the room,
chewing his cud, and digesting his morning meal.
"Good morning, sir, good morning," he began,
eyeing me from head to foot with a calculating
glance; "from Ilamerica, I presume ?" " No, sir, no."
" Lately harived in the country, sir '( " " Yes, sir,
quite lately." " Ah, from Ilinglaud, no doubt :
native of London, sir ? " " From England, sir, but
not a native of London." " Ilin the harmy, I pre-
sume V " No, sir, not in tbe army." " Business,

IHR. BACON. 13

perhaps V "No, sir, travelling merely for pleasure."
" Ah ! very pleasant, very pleasant. Not seen much
of the liisland, yet, I presume 1 " " No, not much."
" Been in the Ileast, yet, sir V "Yes, sir, I have been
in India." " Hindetd, sir, but I mean the bother
bend of the hisland." " Oh ! I see — yes, I have just
returned from St. Thomas." " From what part might
I bask?" "Golden Grove." "Staying with Mr.

A , the proprietor?" "Yes." "Then, sir, I

presume you are ^Ir. G ." " No, sir, my name

is Coke." " Ah ! boh ! hindeed 1 Ah. I thought so."
"Why didn't you say so then ^" I thought, but
did not speak it. We talked till uiy breakfast was
over. He was going to the east end, and . (ffered to
take any letter or message for me to the '• notber
gents." I accepted his offer, and in return he gave
me a letter to be delivered on my way to Falmoutl
It was a choice composition, and very likely he was
rather proud of it, for be gave it to me to read. It
was addressed to one " Dear O'Shornosy," stating that
" the bearer Mr. Cook being anxious to inspect all
the curorsities of the ajasent country, he had men-
tioned that delightful sight, the cave, to him, and in

consequence of which he Mr. C was anxious to

see the same, and if dear O'Shornosy could spare

EWARTON.

time, he, O'S., would oblige him, J. B., to accompany
the gent." The letter concluded with " a kiss for Miss
Paddy O'Shornosy," and was subscribed J. Bacon. —
Mr. Bacon, as I have already stated, was proud of
the letter, and I am quite certain if he ever sees it
in print, he will be proud of that too. At least, he
cannot be offended, for I herewith beg publicly to
thank him for his kindness, and express my regret
that the torrents of rain which descended on my
head for several hours after we parted, washed aAvay
all possibility of seeing either of the " curorsities " —
" O'Shornosy," or " the cave."

Passing through the Bog Walk I put up my horses
for a couple of hours at Ewarton. Without doors
everything was wet and dull, and the only source of
amusement was to smoke a cigar out of a window,
opening into the farm-yard. Quick or dead, all its con-
tents looked equally woc-bcgone. The dog shivered
in his kennel. The turkeys' tails were too heavy, or
the birds had not pluck to keep them from draggling
in the mud. The cocks and hens too were wretched,
and after thuir wont on like occas'ons, stood comfort-
lessly under shelter of an idle j^ig or cart, now and
then balancing themselves on the tips of their toes,
making spasmodic efforts to shake their feathers dry.

CROSSING MONT DIAVOLO.

Even the monkey, usually a cheerful and sociable
being, was lamenting with shrugged shoulders the
gloom of the morning — not venturing to look abroad
unless some restless-minded pigeon happened to flop
heavily on the roof of his house, when, his instinct
getting the better of his reason, he always wetted his
jacket in an attempt to catch hold of the pigeon's legs.
In course of time the heavy rain settled into a heavy
mist, and, on the principle of ' anything for a change,'
I made John, my nigger-coachman, put the horses
to, and left for the Moneague. Happily the sun gra-
dually dispersed the mist, giving me some noble views
as I crossed Mont Diavolo, the only pass in the range
of mountains that divide St. Anne's from St. Thomas
in the vale. Hereabouts the whole country is a sea
of hills and dales, which recalled to my mind the
scenery in Borneo and the islands of the Eastern.
Archipelago, though far tamer, and with much less of
variety in vegetation. The inn at the Moneague was
much better than could be expected in so outlandish a
spot. Things were dear, but one was glad to pay any
sum for accommodation where it was so acceptable.

The next morning I left the main road to St.
Anne's, and took what is called the ' grand interior,'
for Falmouth. Why 'grand interior' I cannot

JAMAICA — GRAND INTEIUOU.

understand : — at hardly any point in it is there room
for two vehicles to pass one another, and most part
of the road is covered with grass — not an indication
of much traffic. Twenty-five miles from the Mon-
eague we came to Brown's Town. My reminiscences
of this place, if they depend on my breakfast, are
not likely to be agreeable. One egg and a stale
piece of dry bre:id was all that could be got for a
famished man.

From Brown's Town, which is at the foot of the
mountains, the road is strikingly uninteresting, when
compared witli»that of my yesterday's journey. The
only object that prevented my faUing asleep was a
poor little laml) I passed by the road-side, with six
or eight infernal John-crows or Turkey-buzzards
strutting round it, impatiently waiting till their
victim had lost the little strengtli it yet was able to
exert in its own defence. Sometimes these harpies
would make a threatening hop to within a few inches
of the lamb's head, and weak as it was it seemed to
be aware that the moment it ceased to move they
would cease to wait, and turned upon them the most
piteous looks, imploring them at least not to begin
before their time.

In the afternoon I reached Hyde Hall, a property

HYDE HALL. 47

belonging to an old college acquaintance. We were
delighted at meeting again, and had a most pleasant
tete-a-tete after <linner on Cantab days and Cantab
men.

13^//. — S rode with me round his estate. I

was struck with its inferiority to those in the east
end of the island. Nevertheless, it is considered one
of the good properties of Trelawny, though it has
been badly managed, and labours under disadvan-
tages to which the district of St. Thomas is not
subject. Wages are here much higher, and the
crops, which vary with the seasons, are as often
injured by droaglit as by an excess of rain. A large
amount of manure is necessary for the cultivation of
the cane, and the want of water-power compels them
to exhaust all their trash in fuel. Many of the mills
are worked by mules, and notwithstanding the
expense of this method, an opinion prevails that
small estates not producing over 100 or 200 hogs-
heads of sugar cannot sustain the outlay of a steam-
engine. S. tells me that it is not the custom for
the negroes in this district to pay rent for their
houses, and that if it were demanded, all of them
would refuse to work. Many negroes live on their
own bits of land, purchased at enormous prices from

18 DUY HARBOUR — THE MONEAOUE.

the dissenting ministers, who have persuaded them
that, as free men, they ought not to live upon the
estates, or depend on the charity of tlicir employers.

14^//. — I took S in my gig, and sent John to

meet me at Dry Harbour. Wo breakfasted at
Captain D 's, a gentleman-like old bachelor, for-
merly of a dragoon regiment, with a most courteous
manner and an inexhaustible fund of anecdote.
With great kindness he drove us seven or eight miles
on the road, till I overtook my vehicle. We then
parted, and stopping only a few minutes at St. Anne's
Bay to buy corn for my horses, I did not bait until
I reached a house on the eight-mile hill, where I was
detained nearly three hours. This delay gave me a
long drive in the dark before I got to the Moueague.
After demolishing for my supper the " debris " of a
bread pudding, I turned into a pair of sheets out of
which I could have wrung water. There were neither
windows nor blinds to my bed-room, and upon the
whole I felt as uncomfortable in body and mind as
circumstances couhl well make me. After a wretched
night, I got away before dawn. The morning Avas
drizzly, and one's light clothing being soon soaked
through, I thought I was giving a fair trial to the
cold-water system. While waiting at Linstead,

SCENERY OP UOa WALK.

thirteen miles from Spanish Town, four men brought
tlie corpse of a black woman to the inn. There was
only a small cloth thrown over the body, and as she
had died from some horrible disease the siy^ht did not
impi'ove my appetite for breakftist. About ten o'clock
the day cleared, and afforded me an excellent oppor-
tunity of admiring the beautiful scenery of the Bog
Walk. The rocky walls which overhang the road,
the gigantic cotton trees, the stately palms, the
orange trees laden with fruit and blossoms, the ferns,
the creepers, the flowers, all were beautiful, and
more beautiful than all, the graceful clumps of
bamboos, like huge bunches of green ostrich plumes,
growing at the very edge of the water, and seeming
bound at their roots by the crystal stream which
flowed in tortuous course through the gorge. Several
empty sugar wains, drawn by fourteen oxen, passed
us on the road. The driver of these carries a whip
long enough to reach the farthest of them. He often
cracks this wonderful machine, sending forth a report
as loud as that of a pistol, thus giving warning of his
approach, and time to others to get out of his way.
John informed me that it was very dangerous to meet
these waggons ; for when loaded they rattle down
the steep hills at terrific speed, and if they come upon

fiO ST. JAQO DE CUDA.

another carriage where the road is narrow they are
unable to stop, and severe accidents occur. lie said
ho had twice been nearly killed by them. Once
they broke " tree 'poke of de wheel and 'praincd do
ancle of em gentleam him was dribing," and on
another occasion he was only saved by turning over
the bank and upsetting himself and his gig.

Soon after I reached Kingston, G-

arrived

from Golden Grove, having been, like myself, a day
and a half coming from Morant Bay. He looks

terribly pulled down, but is better. A is on his

way by land, but will not be here before we leave.

\7tJi. — With some bother G and I got our

passports yesterday from the Spanish Consul, and
took our places in the royal mail steamer " Tay."

We are now lying at anchor off St. Jago de Cuba.
The entrance to the harbour is narrow, and com-
manded by a fort, called, of course, the Morro.
Between this and the anchorage near the town are a
number of bays and inlets perfectly landlocked, some
of them large enough to hold half-a-dozen fleets.
Tom Cringle describes the place, making it the
scene of a " cutting out" expedition. In the evening
I accompanied a party of our officers to hear the
l-)and play on the Plaza. Crowds were walking

CANEY INDIANS, 61

about ; the women smoking, sometimes without
anything, sometimes with a nmntiUa on their heads.
On the followini^- day, CI., Mr. Bcatty, the acting
consul, and I, rode to Canoy, a couple of leagues
from the town. Caney is the " half-way house," or
halting place between St. Jago and tlie surrounding
plantations. The muleteers stop here for their dram
of agua diente ; and on Sunday " the quality" of
St. Jago make it a resort for hot rolls and chocolate.
Wo quenched our thirst on some tolerable maraschino
and cold water, smoked cigarettes, and returned. I
should not forget to remark that Caney is one of the
very few places in the Antilles where any trace of
the Indians may still be seen. They have a village
here, but by an occasional intermarriage with
Spaniards, or negroes, are rapidly losing the idiosyn-
cracies of their race.

19th. — Parted with G,, who sailed soon aflcr in
the " Tay" back to Jamaica. Poor fellow ! I wish
ho was w^ell enough to go on with me.

When the " Tay" was gone, I paid a visit to the
copper mines at Cobrc. The mines arc in the hands
of two companies ; one English, the other Spanish.
Captain Reynolds, a Cornish miner, who is tho
director of the works in the English mine, took me

B 2

o;i

COPPRR MINES OF COBRE.

" in cliargo," and pointed out, n)ucli to my amn.sc-
mcnt, tlio superiority of the English company over
tlio other, sliowing, which >Yas an undcniahlc proof
of it, that his mines produced ten times more metal
than the Spanish. At Cobrd there is a celebrated
church whither people from all parts of the country
flock, at stated periods, to perform a pilgrimage to
the shrine of its patron saint — the Virgin. Amongst
other decorations and effigies in this church, is a rude
figure of the Virgin, ornamented with valuable jewels
and richly attired. Iler under garments arc changed
once a week, and the office of w^ashing them is
consigned to the Padre's sister. Numbers of pictures
of the Holy Mother as she appeared to the favoured
inhabitants of Cobre, and models of distorted hmbs,
to remind her of those cases most worthy her atten-
tion, are also suspended from all parts of the walls.

A sj)ecial train was provided for my return. There
were eight miles of tramway from the mines down to
the coast, and as the decline was very rapid, our
speed was equal to that of a " Great Northern
express," with no other power to propel ns than a
loaded car to give impetus to our descent. On
turning an angle in the road, a herd of goats
happened to cross the line ; I thought we should

aOATS ON IIMLWAY. 53

certainly bo upset, but our speed saved us; wo ran
over the goats, leaving thcni sprawling on the road,
some of them cut fairly in half by the wheels. That
afternoon, I left San Jago in the "Guadalquiver"
steamer, for Trinidad do Cuba. Passengers from
almost every nation were on board ; of my own
countrymen, three beside myself.

Some time ago I had made up my mind to
perform this voyage in a coasting vessel ; finding a
nice little steamer starting at the right moment, and
getting a whole cabin to myself, was a piece of good
luck I did not look for. At present the only objection-
able part of it is the food ; the dinnei', especially, is
execrable ; everything stinking abominably of garlic,
and cooked, I would swear, in the same oil that is
used to grease the engine with. The sea is beginning
to be rough, and none but the " old stagers" are
proof against these smells :.ad the motion of the
vessel.

19^//. — Coasting the whole day with land very
close at times. Found " Pendennis" and Mr. Van-
dervoort, an American, very agreeable company.
Mr. B was a bore, because he thought every-
body else a bore. B is evidently travelling to

cure a nervous complaint. He might as well take

54 THE QUEEN 9 GARDEN.

water for tlic dropsy. Ho has conccivocl a dislike to
anotlicr passenger, and whenever this man appears

B disappears, cither behind the funnel or headlong

down the hatchway. His bugbear is a Yankee. He
trembles lest he should bo put out, extinguished, with
tobacco juice, and the Yankee takes shots between the

bars of his chair. B takes notes of everything,

lie is a walking statistic. He carries in his i)ockct a
folio of memoranda fis b'g as a volume of the British
Encyclopa}dia. Ho goes every five minutes to dis-
cover how many rotations the wheel is making in
one ; talks mysteriously of the signs of the times,
and oxpresses infinite reverence for the public press.
He execrates the whole herd of novel writers and
novel readers — thinks there is no fun in Punch — feels
seasick, and takes — a note.

20//'. — We are amongst " the Thousand Islands,"
or the " Queen's Garden." The water is like quick-
silver, and there is not ;. cloud in tne sky. On every
side little green spots seem floating peacefully in an
atmosphere of blue. The vessel distiu'bs a shoal of
flying fish, and a flock of black ducks sail round us, .
astonished at the intrusion of the smoking monster.
At sunset wo dropped anchor not many miles from
Santa Cruz.

TRINIDAD — AMERICAN CONSUL. 55

2\st. — At noon, wc arc in tlic harbour of Trinidad.
It is Washington's birth-day, and the American ships
are decked from their trucks to the water witli
stars and stripes, and with the flags of all nations.
Vandervoort introduces mo to the American Consul
and I get a cast in his volante from Casilda, where
we landed, to the house of a Spanish friend of mine,
one Juan Andre. My friend was staying at his
country-seat, two leagues from Trhiidad. While
waiting for a volante at the town-house, my patience
and small talk had to undergo a severe ordeal in
listening to the d'^11 remarks of a person, who I
believe was some connexion of my friend's. A la
West Indian, we sat and smoked, and smoked and
sat. As a matter of course, nothing further was
proposed. Amusement in the daytime is a thing
unknown. Only now and then I was cnUvencd by
the glimpse of some young seilorita in her morning
deshabille, as she rushed past the door, or peeped from
beliind the pannel at the " Inglese" stranger. The
room itself was, perhaps, the most interesting subject
for contemplation. Like the women's dresses, it was
built for comfort and coolness, but with this diflbrence
between them — the Spanish women only wear furni-
ture in the evening ; the rooui all the 'l;iy. The

56 DINNER PARTY.

floor was marble, tlie walls frescoed, the big folding-
doors handsomely carved ; large mirrors were not
wanting, nor chandeliers, nor pianofortes, nor China
jars, nor Parisian clocks, nor alabaster statuettes, nor
a variety of pretty nicknacks which would complete
an inventory fit for the use and ornament of the
house of any man of wealth and taste. My new
acquaintance and I were both beginning to yawn
when the volante was announced. I jumped in and
was driven to Juan Andre's chateau. The party
assembled consisting of his brother, two cousins, the
foreman of his sugar-works, and his gamekeeper, (the
two latter in their shirt sleeves ;) were on the point of
sitting down to dinrer when I arrived. Preparatory
to feeding, each persoii went througli the ceremon\ of
washing his hands. In truth, there was not much
beyond ceremony in the matter, for these ablutions
were pei'formed consecutively in the same basin and
in tlic same water. The table-cloth, evidently quite
used to it, served as the towel, and the maxim of
" every one for himself" was soon put into practice.
The whole business was novel to me, and therefore
amusing. A mure particular person, troul)led with a
(lolicato stomach, might not have appreciated the
jirranacmont with tlie same dejrrec of trusto. The

CLEANLINESS.

dishes were necessarily all Spanish, and, excepting
the indispensable ingredients, oil and garlic, it would
have puzzled a chemist to determine what did or did
not enter into the composition of these infernal
messes. Every one helped himself or his friend with
his own knife and fork ; and, as often as not,
dispensed with even this formality, using fingers for
all purposes. Betv.een every dish — I might almost
say between each mouthful, a "golpe" of tobacco
smoke was inhaled. Upon the top of all a layer of
cheese and syrup, or cheese mixed with coffee, was
deposited ; no doubt, aS a species of police against
disturbances or disagreement in the regions destined
for the reception of this heterogeneous imUe. When
all had eaten enough, or too much, as the case might
be, the horses were ordered, and a good shaking ride
on pacing ponies was inflicted to the neighbouring
plantations.

CHAPTER II.

Guha. — Don Jueto C. — Cock-fighting. — Political jealousy of iho Cubans and llo
Causes. — Present Miserable Condition of the Country and its Prospects. —
Causes wliicli menace the Dominion of Spain. — Sunday in Cuba. — Dinner at
tbo American Consul's. — Ride to Arimao. — A Night in ihe Ilen-roost. —
Ratabano. — Ethnological Discussion between two American Gentlemen. —
"All Britisliers have an Accent, a Peculiar way of Speaking." — Ilavannah by
Railroad. — Public Execution. — Garrotting. — A Hardened Sinner. — Carnival
at the Ilavannah. — Passage from Hava^nah to Charlestown. — The Gonvis
Snob as found in America.

Fehnmri) 22nd, — Early in the morning Juan Andi-c
took mc to a high point, whence I had a view of his
property. It extended as far as the eye couhl reach,
and was covered with cane. This, however, was not a
tenth part of the property belonging to the family, or

rather to their step-father, Don Justo C , one of

the richest men in Cuba. Don Justo is the owner of
six large estates, upon each of which is a complete
establishment, including a residence house, and sugar
works fitted with the latest improvements in ma-
chinery. The aggregate number of slaves cmj)loycd
on these estates exceeds two thousand.

CUBAN JEALOUSY. 59

Before breakfast wc were entertained by Juan
Andre with a cock-fight, and some cock-training;
afler breakfast wc took horse to visit some of his stej)-
fathcr's plantations.

In this country it is esteemed a particular mark
of favour to bo permitted, as a foreigner, to penetrate
a single mile into the interior of the island : so
jealous are the Spaniards of the influence of
extraneous principles, more especially of those likely
to be entertained by English or Americans, as subjects
of governments so widely differing from their own.
Indeed it is not a matter of astonishment that a
dishiclination to criticism should exist, where any
comparison with other countries must so painfully
expose the prominent defects in their own. The
pitiable state in which the Cubans now are, is only
equalled by their prospects for the future. There is
hardly a country which the Spanish powers do not
regard with distrust and suspicion. Many of the
wealthiest proprietors in the island are secretly
aiclmed to invite their neighbours of the North, but
doubt and fear restrain them. AH, however, seem
aware that the Siianish banner will not wave many
years longer over the Queen of the Antilles ; and few
Cubans arc there who will lament, or desire to avert

CUBAN POLITICS.

the change. Compelled to raise resources for the
mother-country, and to maintain those agents who
exact the payment of them, they caress the rod
that scourges them. Considered as a treasure
presently to be lost, and of which the most must be
made in the meantime, they have no feeling but
hatred for the Spaniards of old Spain ; and in the
event of a struggle, though Cuba may not gain, Spain
must undoubtedly be a loser.

On the four or five plantations I have seen here,
the slaves are exceedingly well treated. They have
good houses and good food, fresh meat every day, and,
judging from appearances, are in a happier condition
than are, at present, the free men in our colonies.

2^rd, Su?ida?/. — Took volante and drove to town,
and, by way of spending the day profitably, sat five
hours in a cockpit. Alas ! it is the fate of travellers
sometimes to " do at Rome as Romans do," and as
Trinidadians when in Trinidad : besiJcs (for a lame
excuse or two), there was no Protestant church in the
place, and cock-fighting can't be seen to perfection
every day in the week ; and so — my friend being a
man who fights his three or four cocks ever} day,
and loses his twenty ounces as often as any body —
I could not well do less than sit out the performances

COCK FIGHTING. 61

from beginning to end, and tire myself, and be
disgusted with a disgusting and cruel exhibition as it
was. But to describe 4t : — The circus holds about
two hundred people ; the instant the birds are brought
in, every one of these two hundred commence backing
their opinion as to the result of the combat, not alone
with money, but with screams, yells, gesticulations,
and every sort of means which the excitement of the
moment can suggest, short of knocking each other
down. Silence is restored by the first few " cuts and
guards " of the wary belligerents, till one, generally
the elder, makes a feint and succeeds in planting his
spur in the eye of his adversary. Whereupon the
whole two hundred again perform the scene of the
commencement, M'ith some slight variations in the
odds and their feelings. A good chicken Avill finish
his work in three minutes, but, if himself badly
wounded, may peck and peck till the other, suddenly
roused, makes one tremendous effort and drives his
two spurs through the neck of the assailant. Again
tlie multitude get up to scream and the odds come
down. There is more noise, more smoke than ever.
While the betting is going on, the " bottle-holders "
pick up the now equally enfeebled combatants ; suck
and hck their bleedinjg heads, as if they were putting

654 SLAVES WORK NIQIIT AND DAY.

barley-sugar into their mouths ; spirt water in their
foccs, shako them up, and once more set them in
battle array. But they arc* both quite exhausted,
and unless one is lucky enough to be killed soon, they
go round and round till one dies by degrees, almost
without the trouble of being killed by a blow. Such
is cock-fighting ; and such is the only pastime, the
only object, the study and recreation of the fjentlcman
of this part of the world. Three days of every week
are spent in the cockpit, they talk of nothing else,
and think of nothing else the remaining four.

25^A. — Drove out to call on Don Justo C

before breakfast. He showed me over one of his
sugar manufactories ; it was on a larger scale, and
more perfect than any I have yet seen. They
make no rum here, but the molasses undergoes an
additional course of I'cfinemcnt. The sugar is purged
with wet clay, and drains through small porous jars.
It is of a much finer quality than that made in our
islands, and is nearly white. On all these plantations
the slaves work night and day during crop-time.
They are divided into two bands. At evening, when
" the curfew tolls the knell, &c.," the night band take
their spell, and are relieved at the end of twelve
hours by those who work in ihe day. Don Justo

CUBAN BEAUTIES.

pressed me to stop for dinner ; I willingly did so,
tlio more willingly because I recognised, among other
meinbers of the family, two of the peeping apparitions
of the town house. One a tall young lady with an
oval face and largo black eyes ; the other a middle
sized young lady, with what Haji Baba would have
called a " moon face," and large blue eyes. The tall
one was rather sentimental ; the short one particularly
merry. You may call me " spooney " if you \vill,
but I solemnly protest I never saw two such pretty
faces before. Of course I mean two such pretty
Spanish faces. No one who ever heard with what
pathos I sometimes, in these remote corners of the
earth, whistle the tune of " the girls we left behind
us," or knew with what genuine sentiment we
wanderers mix our first glass of grog on Saturday
nights, to the never-forgotten toast of " sweethearts
and w4ves," would ever think of accusing irio of — well
never mind. There are some people who need not bo
jealous of even Spanish beauties, and without any
" odious comparisons " in the matter, I still persist in
thinking, that, for a pair of scfioritas, these two have
not their match all the way from Cadiz to Corunna,
and back again. The only thhig I could think of all
dinner time was, " How happy could I be with either.

64 THE LOVELY SISTElfS.

were t'other dear charmer away." I would defy a
man to fall in love with one if the other was there
too. Both were so })retty yet so unlike : if the shoi't
one had the sweetest little mouth and the prettiest
little dimples at the side of it, ever seen, the t<dl
one was a fourth grace, a swan with the relative
measurement of legs and n^ k, improved upon ; and
then, good gracious ! what a look ! not like that of
the blue eyes, which were always cast down in case of
contact, but such a look as would have stared a
saucer out of countenance, and cost at least a week's
appetite to any man, though his heart had been as
hard as fifteen nether millstones. Ojily conceive how
horrified I must have been to hear that the eldest
was engaged to be married in a month, and how
astonished I was to learn that she was only twelve
years old. Don't be alarmed ye ladies of England,
at the thoughts of this somewhat premature step ; to
look at, I assure you, either of them might have been
any age, — under eighteen. My volante at the door at
length reminded me that the time was come to say
that unpleasant word " goodbye." So with a polite
" a siis pieds de usted," to the lovely sisters, I turned
my back upon the amiable family, I suppose for ever !
26th. — After a very pleasant dinner with Vander-

TIUNIDAD— AlJJ.l) LANG SYNK. 65

voort, and two otlier Americans, we adjourned to drink
our wine at Mr. Mac Something's, the yankeo consul,
an excellent man who gloried in good Madeira and
his Scotch descent. The unusual circumstance of
five men sitting round a table all speaking the English
language as their mother tongue, in a place like
Trinidad, made the party a jolly one. The conver-
sation took a friendly turn, we were bent upon
complimenting each other on the merits of our native
lands. It was a trite truism on my part to say that
America was destined to be a great nation, at least,
I was thereby hazarding no new idea. Their opinions
of old England were equally flattering. The Madeira
was unexceptionable, and gave a mellow tone to th(,
consul's ^ voice that almost brought tears into (his
own) e^'^es, as he sung one after another the most
familiar of the Scotch songs. So pleasant we all got
to be, we might have been at " auld lang syne,"
and drinking old Madeira till now, had not the party
been broken up by a summons from Juan Andre,
saying the horses w^ere ready, and he was ^vaiting
for me. " The best of fi-icnds must part," and travel-
lers are not permitted to indulge too often or too
long in such pleasant diversions as these, which like
mile-stones and land-marks on the journey, remain

66 TUir TO AUIMAO.

firm and fresh when all the disagreeable has " faded
and gone."

As might be sii])posed, I did not find it very con-
venient to sit the fidgctty steed that was to have the
honour of cari-ying me fifty miles in the dark ; and
melancholy as was the parting in other resj)ects, my
friends laughed heartily when they saw me steadying
myself in the saddle for a start. The party assembled
to accompany me on my trip — I was going to Arimao

— consistedofDon Andre, Don Miguel C , brother

to Don Justo, La Plante an artist, the old fisherma;"
or gamekeeper before mentioned, and two ac(juaint-
ances of my friend. All except myself were heavily
armed, and had we met with an adventure all would
I believe have behaved like men. The night was fine,
and a beautiful moon soon gave us plenty of light.
La Plante who had a good voice, made the ride
pleasant by singing operatic airs all the way. About
nine leagues from Trinidad we pulled up for a cup of
coffee and a smoke. At one in the morning we
reacl'ed St. Juan, a lonely hut by the road side in the
midst of a mountainous country. The accommodation
was not strictly speaking, excellent — one little cabin
and a loft made up the house. But we were tired
and hungi-y, and glad to get rest. My companions

PKROTI IN OOOK-IiOPT.

fi7

sot to work ut once bv tlio liolp of a farthing rush-
light, to ovci'haiil tliu contents of sonic })annicrs we
had brouglit with us. Tlio result was I felt my
appetite as much inipaircd by the sight of thrm as if
I had eaten the quantity my companions afterwards
eat. Leaving them to their supper I took the pre-
caution to look out for a perch of some kind, before
the increased demand for that article should leave me
no choice in the matter. I scrambled by aid of a
ladder through a trap-door into a luft. and after
disturbing sundry domesticated old cocks a?id hens,
and nearly breaking my head in the dark against
the rafters, I managed to tumble " all standing " into
what I found to be a very good grass hamack.
Pulling off my spurs and rolling myself up in my
plaid, I slept sound till the cock-crowing above and
the bustle below informed me that it was time to
turn out. The morning was cold, and it was not
till we had ridden some fifteen or twenty miles that
the fog broke away and the hot sun made its appear-
ance. The scenery we passed through was not fine,
but indeed I have seen nothing in the island to be
compared for beauty to Jamaica. We reached
Arimao in the middle of the day. It is a sort of stock
farm surrounded by many thousand acres of grass,

F 2

ARIMAO.

and looks unpleasantly wild and rural. In tlie evening
about sunset, for the space of half-an-liour, hundreds
of pigeons or doves flew over the house to the woods,
up the country. Some of my companions amused
themselves by shooti.ig at them, but did not kill
many as they flew so low and so fast.

March ist. — I find Arimao very dull — All the party
but myself speak Spanish — All the party but mj'self
are fond of shooting — All the party but myself like
to get up before daylight and bathe in the middle
of the day, eat big suppers and make a tremendous
noise. This morning I was persuaded to go with
them to a lagune after ducks. I never saw so many
water-fowl together-, but I could not shoot with their
guns (which have a good chance of bursting even if
they were not loaded, entirely by guess-work). My
friends came home an hour or two after I did, brino--
iug with them forty-three ducks and coots, a dozen
parrots, a mmilier of pigeons, some guinea-fowls, and
a few quails. We made an excursion to fish in the
evening, aiid I foolishly separating frvtm the others,
lost my way. The country is so devoid of striking
objects, that when I got to the river I could not tell
whether to go up or down it. After hunting a
couple of hours in the dark for some sign to /;juidc me,

CIEN FUEGUS. (VJ

I was forced to give it up, and was looking out for a

comfortable tree, when I spied at a great distance a
light which I took for a rj.M'ig star, fortunately it
turned out to be from the house. A night in these
prairies would not aftei' all have been much worse
than a night at the iarm, for what with dirt, fleas,
and cold, I am compelled to sleep every night with
all my clothes on, even to my coat. Tomorrow,
however, wo go, and there will be an end to these
grievances. As for my companions they arc more
than half savages, and had I not chanced to have
with me " Notre Dame de Paris," and " JMansficld
Park," I could hfn-dly have survived the week.

2?id. — Arrived at Cien Fuegos, six leagues from
Arimao. It is a flourishing little town, and threatens
to monopolise the trade on this side the island. The
houses are built in Grecian style, and the people arc
said to be very wealthy. The first ohji^ct, m usaal,
was the pit, and, being at the mercy of my frieuds,
I was obhged to i)ass the whole day i!i m. intellec-
tual pastime of cock-fighting. It was, howevn some
small consolation to see them lose a considi.'rable
number of doubloons. In the aFternoon Juan Andre
returned to Trinidad, At eight p.m. 1 sailed from Cien
Fuegos, in the Tayaba steamer. In fifteen hours we

BATABANU.

reached Batabaiio ; but, thanks either to the stupidity
or connivance of the people, no trains leave for
Ilavannah until to-morrow. This arra>i<^cment is
carried out with every steamer that comes here ;
and, though all abuse, none attempt to amend it.
Certainly, Batabano sta)^.ds in much need of custom
and improvement; for a more wretched place to
stop a day in cannot be imagined.

At a billiard-table, or rather the billiard-table, I
fell in with two Americans, whom 1 soon became
acquainted with, — as they saved me the trouble
of introducing myself, by a discussion that arose
amongst them as to what country I belonged to.
One thought I might be an Englishman — the other
was sui-e I was a Yankee ; so it ended by the ques-
tion being put to me, " Whether I was a ]3ritisher or
nof?" When I gave them the information they
requii-ed, both said " it was very strange, for now
they heard me talk they did not observe I liad any
English accent." I said I thought it would be very
much more strange if I had ; upon which tiioy
assured me " all Britishers had an accent — a peculiar
way of speaking English : they always cut their
words so short." Like all Americans I have met,
they were agreeable enough if humoured a little, and

FIRST VIEW OF THE HAVANNAH, 71

perfectly civil if civilly treated. In the evening wo
congregated on board the steamer which was to take
them to Cicn Fuegos, and played four or five rubbers
of whist until they sailed.

A:th. — Went by train to the Ilavannah. Carriages
pretty fair, but slow ; three hours going thirty-seven
miles. Road uninteresting ; country flat. Few
cocoa-nut trees, thousands of palms — the same as in
Jamaica are called Mountain Cabbages. The first
view of Ilavannah, from the south side, is not unlike
an Eastern city. The yellow walls and flat-roofed
houses, the low and dusty-looking country, the sea,
the hoi sky, the strings of sumpter mules, the dark-
complexioned natives — all aid the illusion. May a
closer intimacy not destroy it ! Who can delight in
the West after travelling in the East '(

I have now been five weeks in the Havannah.
What I have seen or done in that time convinces me
that one or two is quite enough for all ordinary
purposes of interest. In five weeks a person may
learn to put up with much discomfort, to smoke
much tobacco, to waste much time, and to sj)eak
a little and miderstand less of the worst-spoken
Spani^b. Besides the Opera, a l)and which plays
every evening, and the Dominica Cafe, there are no

72 • THE HABANEKOS.

means of amusing oneself. For foreigners, at least,
there is no society, and I believe hardly any amongst
the Habaneros themselves. This, perhaps, is the less
to be regretted, as no one who has seen a little of
them can wish to see mure. As a general rule, they
are ignorant, profligate, and nnprincipled ; full of
arrogant pride, without any sense of honour; if in
office, ever ready to defraud the Government, and,
from the highest to the lowest, open to the most
unblushing venaHty. They gamble till they lose
their last coat, and then would sell their skin to
keep a volante. Isolated from the rest of the world,
HaA^annah is all and everything to them ; and you
might as well talk metaphysics to a cow as attempt
to persuade them that any capital in Europe may be
named in the same day with their own. What, after
all, have they to boast ofl Their buildings, say
they, are the finest, their Opera the largest, their
Passeo the longest, their equipages the best-appointed,
their men the bravest, and their women the prettiest
that ever were seen. In the first place let me tell
them, if there be any truth in the above statements,
it is wonderfully economised ; and next, if they
have anything to be proud of a bad time, so it
appears, is in store for them, when they will have

TIUi; CAMPO DEL MAllTE. 73

to leave off bo.asting, and take to getting their
living in more creditable ways than tbey do at
present.

A day or two since I got ])crmission to visit a
criminal in the capilla of the town prison. He was
to be garrotted the following day, for having robbed
and mnrdcrcd a boy. lie looked a terrible ruffian,
and made signs to me, as he was not billowed to
speak, of stabbing and being strangled, shrugging
his shoulders at the same time, and smiling with the
most cold-blooded indifference. That '• conscience
makes cowards of us all " was for once not true : the
man had no conscience to make a coward of him. A
priest was in the capilla, and two sentries guarded
the door. The morning of the execution I was at
the Campo del J^Iarte before daylight. The crowd
had already assembled, and the tops of the houses
were thronged with people. The women, with their
fans in their hands, occupied the front rows of chairs,
in order to see better the horrors which were about
to take place. By squeezin^T; and pushing I managed
to get within eight or nine y.ards of the machine,
where I liad not long been before the procession was
seen moving up the Passeo. A few cavalry were in
front to clear the road ; behind them came the host,

A PUBLIC EXECUTION.

with a number of priests and the prisoner on foot,
dressed in white ; a large guard brouglit up the rear.
The sokliers formed an open square. Tlie execu-
tioner, the culprit, and one priest ascended the steps
of the platform ; the prisoner quietly seated himself,
but got up again to adjust the chair and make
himself more comfortable I The executioner then
arranged the band round his nock, tied his legs
and arms, and retired behind the post. At a word
from the priest the wrench Avas turned. For a single
instant the limbs of the culprit were convulsed. The
head was kept perfectly erect by a sort of iron
prong beneath the ears. The face, which remaiaed
uncovered, was horribly distorted ; the eyes were
closed, but the lower jaw was pulled wide open, and
the blood, which immediately blackened all the
features, oozed from tlu^ iriouth and fell in large
drops upon the white sk.irt. No exclamation, no
whisper of horror, escaped from the lookers-on. Such
a scene was too familiar to their eves to excite anv
feeling but curiosity; and had the execution taken
place at the usual spot instead of in the town, few
would have given themselves the trouble to witness
it. The body remained in the machine till four in
the afternoon, exposed in the greatest thoroughfare

PASSION WEEK AT HAVANxNAH. 75

of tlie town — a disgusting Trionmnent of this civilising
process of tlie nincteontli century.

The end of Passion Week is rather an interesting
time to be in the Ilavannah. The throe last days are
kept with great ceremony. From Thursday till
Saturday no quadru})eds are allowed within the walls
of the city; and long processions, headed by the
Captain-General and all the officials in full uniform,
parade the streets, from church to church, several
times each d;iy. On Friday an effigy of the Saviour
is carried about, accompanied by a regiment of troops
with their arms reversed, a band playing a solemn
march, and a train of priests bearing emblems of tlie
Crucifixion. On Sunday a mock resurrection is
acted. The figures are most grotesque; and, indeed,
the whole ceremony is more to be reo-arded as a
painful l.irci', than as an affecting remembrance of
what it is meant to represent.

Last night a masqued ball was given at the town.
Everybody was there, disp(jrting themselves in
id I'ubbiiiir off the whitewash of tl

tley,

110

eek

The theatre was handsomelv "<>ot

up.

though not to be compared to Drury Lane in the

In the centre of the floor was

hands of JuUien
a raisei

.stage, upon which small companies of

76 MASKED RALLS.

Catalonians, \vlio manage tlio whole affair, perform in
turns various divertissements, aecording to their taste.
These companies are called Conipa.sos. Each assumes
some particular costume, and, with their own bands
to play for them, dance, attitudinise, do the acrobat
business, or play the fool, till the next party is ready
to take their places. They then leave the stage
with the applause or di3a})probation of the spec-
tators, and mix in the dances which are going on at
the same time in other parts of the house. The
opposition bands which play the contre-danscs are
of the worst possible description. They seem per-
fectly indifferent to either time or tune, and for the
most part the loudest instruments are played without
music, and apparently after the caprice of the artist.
The masks were one and all poor and shabby. Some
of the more eccentric might be seen with smudged
faces and unclean shirts. An original idea ! — sub-
stituting dirt for a fancy dress. As to the women,
there literally was not a pretty face in the room,
i. e., there were none to be seen, and T take it for
granted if there had been a beauty she would not
have kept her mask on all the time. Two more of
these balls arc to bo given : any moderate man
would, I think, be satisfied with one.

PROM HAVANNAU TO CIIARLESTOWN. 77

In taking leave of tlic Ilavaniiali I sliould remark
for tlic benefit of tliose who come after me, tliat of
the hotels Woolcot's is the best and Fulton's perhaps
the worst. Everything is enormously dear and the
only luxury to be liad without paying for is the sea
baths at the Punta. On the eighth we took our
places in the " Isabel " steamer for Charlestown. D. is
now neai'ly recovered after a long and severe attack
of fever. A. has joined us from Jamaica, and a great
friend of mine who came here after travelling through
the States is also of the party. — The last of these
goes with us to New York. He and I talk of crossing
the Rocky Mountains, and making our way to Cali-
fornia. At present this is only a scheme, but it is
one I have long wished to faifil. How it will turn
out I do not yet know. Two other Englishmen had
taken their passage in the •' Isabel," but vre have started
without, them. The third morning from the day of
our departure we arrived at Charlc&town, having per-
formed a voyage of 7G0 miles in sixty-two hours.
This is perhaps one of the quickest sea voyages that
can be made. The l)oat happened to be very fast,
and the gulf stream along the coast of Florida runs
northward, at a rate of three or four knots an hour.
From Charlestown we went by steamer to New York,

78
G-

STinCTURER ON THR YANKRKS.
not bcinji: stroiii2: cnouuli to mulertakc the

journey hy land. We all find tiie change of climate
disagreeable ; eight days ago we were in the tropics,
and now we have ice in the streets.

25///. — It is settled that my friend Fred, as I shall
hi future call him, goes with me to the Prairies.
So that since oiu- arrival here, our time has hocn
chiefly occupied in making preparations for the trip.
Any observations I might be tcmjited to make on
New York, or even I am inclined to think, on any of
the civilised parts of the States, would probably be
neither novel nor interesting. I am not ambitious
of circulating more 'American notes,' nor do I care to
follow in the footsteps of Mrs. Trollope. Enough
has been written to illustrate the singularities of
second-rate American society. Good society' is the
same all over the world. General remarks I hold to
1)0 fair play. But to indulge in personalities is a poor
return for hospitality ; and those Americans who are
most willing to be civil to foreigners, receive little
enough encouragement to extend that civility, when,
as is too often the case, those very foreigners after-
vAards attempt to amuse their friends on one side
the Atlantic, at the expense of a breach of good faith
to their friends on the other. Every one has his

NEW YOIJK SNOBi^.

prejudices : 1 freely confess I have mine. I like
Loudon better than New York, but it does not
therefore follow that 1 dislike New York, or Americans
either. I have a great respect for almost everything
American — I do not mean to say that I have any
affection for a thorough-bred Yankee, in our accepta-
tion of the term ; far from it, I think him the most
offensive of all bipeds in the known world. Yankee
snobs too I hate — such as infest Broadway, for
instance, genuine specimens of the genus, according
to the highest authorities. The worst of New York
is its superabundance of snobbism. The snob here
is a snob " sui (jencris," quite beyond the capacities of
the old world. There is no mistaking him. lie is
cut out after the most approved pattern. If he differs
from the original, who or whatever that might have
been, it must be in a surpassing excellence of snobbism
which does credit to the progressive order of things.
Tuft-hunting is a sport he pursues with delight to
hims "If, ba •, without remorse or pity for his victim.
It is iccessar}' for the object of his persecutions to
be constantly en the alert, lie is frequently seen
prowUng about in white kid gloves, patent leather
boots, and Parisian hat. Whenever this is the case
he must be considered dangerous and bloody-minded,

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TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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Photogiaphic

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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80 SNOBS AND SNOBBISH.

for in all probability he is meditating a call. Often
he has been known to run his prey to ground in the
Opera or other public places, and there to worry them
Avithin less than an inch of their good temper.
Offensive as he is generally speaking, he sometimes
acts on the defensive ; for, not very well convinced of
his own infallibility, he is particularly susceptible of
affronts, to which his assumed consequence not
unfrequently makes him liable. Baits are often
proffered by these swell-catchers to lure the unwary.
Such as an introduction to the nymphs of the corps-
de-hallet: the cntre to all the theatres, private
gambling-houses, &c. &c. But beware of such
seductions. It is an expensive luxury to be toadied,
and the profit to be derived therefrom is, truly,
exceedingly small. Heigho ! here enters a most
profound snob. I can't finish my page. He is
proposing to dine with us at the restaurant. We
shall not be rid of him for the rest of the evening.
I did hope to enjoy my last dinner at New York in
peace, and here is a fellow that will order half a
dozen of champagne, and will abuse it and every
thing else at the table ; in short vill make himself as
disafcreeable as it is in his nature to be.

CHAPTER III.

Designation of our Travelling Party. — Sturt from St. Louis. — Equipment.—
Camp-stools and Carving knives. — Soencry <>f tlic Missouri. — Fort Leaven-
worth. — Prairie. — Anticiption and Fruition. — Moral Character of Mules. —
Village of Sav.innah. — The Prairie at Last I — Ginger Beer and Chocolate on
the Plains.—Mormons going to tlic Salt Lake. — Reach Council Bluffs. —
Trader's Point. — Major Barrow. — Ilorsc- Racing on the Plains. — Leave the
Major.

May 28</i, 1850. — Thank goodness ! we are off at
last. I began to think we never should get away
from St. Louis. Fresh obstacles to our departure
seemed to arise every day. The emigrants are the
cause of this. Horses, mules, grass, game, and the
novelty of the trips are daily becoming scarce through
them. For one of my horses I have paid 125 dollars,
and for a mule 140. Three years ago I could have
bought the two for less than half of what I have
given for either. Men and guides were equally diflfi-
cult to procure ; and the inconceivable number of
little necessaries would take a man ten days to think
of or enumerate. Pope says : —

" Man wonts but little hero below.
Nor wants that little long."

THE «'iART FOR CALIFORNIA.

How long we may want what wc have got, I cannot
really say. But I am inclined to think that had
Mr. Pope ever made preparations for a trip across
the Rocky Mountains, he would have made the
proviso that this journey was by no means to be
included in his conception of the ordinary seven
stage journey of life.

However, we are ofl' at last, and I trust pretty
well provided for the undertaking. We have
nine mules, eight horses, and two wagons. The
party consists of my friend Fred ; a British
parson, whose strength and dimensions most
justly entitle him to be called a pillar of
the Church ; and the individual whom, to save
explanation, I will designate as myself: four
young Frenchmen of St. Louis ; Fils, a Canadian
voyagenr ; and a little four-foot-nothing Yankee,
Fred's ralet-de-champs, familiarly called Jimmy,
make up the complement of our jovial crew. The
only part of our equipment likely to be de trap is
some 1000 lb. weight of baggage ; we have in all
little less than 4000 lb., and judging from the size
of the wagons, I should think they are licensed to
carry only three at the most.

The outfitting expenses amounts to about 1000

ST. LOUIS. 83

dollars each, but this I hope will carry us through
to California.""

Never was I more glad to leave a place than I
am to-day ; a fortnight at St. Louis would sicken
any one of Yankee towns, if he had no better object
than to amuse himself as a stranger, or be bored
to death with the arrangements for a trip over the
plains. With only 500/. in the world, St. Louis
might afford a fine field for speculation : self-defence
would soon sharpen the wits of the most obtuse,
and a little of the western 'cuteness, backed by a
small capital, and a still smaller conscience, would
soon work its way to pudding and prosperity. Every
year this city is increasing in magnitude and import-
ance. It appears to be the very heart of commerce,
and its more sanguine burghers are anxiou.ily
awaiting the proud moment when the silks rnd t e
teas of the East will be dep sited in their stores
en route to Europe, via rail from California. For
business if you will, but don't try St. Louis for
pleasure. Should you think of starting for this point,
purchase nothing here that you can purchase else-

* In this iustanco, wont of manag 3ment, tho purcliase of useless luxuries,
and tho fact of money being comparatively no great object, combined to
make our expenses more than double the usual outlay of emigrants.

G 2

84 EQUIPMENTS.

where. Embark in the first steamer that leaves, and
trust to Providence for the rest.

Probably I should have done something desperate
of this kind ere now, but Fred was much too wise
a companion to allow me to have my own way. So
far from permitting us to start unprepared, he has
insisted upon our taking camp-stools and carving-
knives, just as if the most indifferent picnickers
would not despise the idea of sitting upon anything
but grass, and just as if we had not bowies enough
to cut up every dead or living thing between this and
China. For his own consumption Fred has taken
white kids, and, I believe, patent leather boots, and
although the parson and I hardly appreciate si.ch
delicacies, I doubt not they will have the desired
effect upon the natives. The weather is beautiful,
the " St. Ange" is supposed to be a fast boat, the
captain is accommodating, and om* voyage up the
Missouri promises to be an agreeable one.

29th. — This is too provoking! After congratulating
ourselves in the most sanguine state of mind that
we were fairly started, and that nothing could stop
us, the first discovery we make this morning throws
us into the greatest perplexity. The guide Fils is
nowhere to be found. The cowardly rascal has

GUIDE DESERTS. 85

absconded, " abiit, evasit, erupit," but where, when,
and how he accomplished his treacherous design is
not easy to determine. The only place we stopped
at in the night was St. Charles. We did not remain
here more than five minutes, and it is positively
asserted tliat no one left the vessel during that time.
The whole affair is a mystery. The captam declares
he must be drowned, but his rifle, or rather the one
we lent him, is also gone, together with his baggage.
This hardly has the appearance of accident, and unless
he used them as sinkers for the purpose of committing
felo de se, I firmly beheve the whole business to be a
premeditated contrivance for obtaining a cheap rifle
and three months' pay. The only consolation we
have is that it is better to be left by our guide here
than hereafter.

June \st. — The Missouri is decidedly a finer river,
as far as scenery is concerned, than the Mississippi.
The short bends and the wooded banks prevent one
from seeing too far a-head, and the numerous little
creeks and shaded coves, never visited but by the
wild fowl, have an air of quiet wildness about them
which, with the help of a few variegated lamps,
suspended from the overhanging branches, might rival
even the charms of llosherville or Cremorne. There

8fi FORT LEAVENAVOllTll.

is, liowcvor, ono drawback which necessarily impedes
our progress a good deal. This is the immense
number of snags, which, hke a chcvaiw-de-frise,
threaten annihilation at every turn. To avoid them
wo are constantly running aground ; and as it is
always an easier process to get into difficulties than
to get out'of them, we generally prove the truth of
the maxim by losing twelve hours in the twenty-four,
leaving ourselves the remaining twelve to combat with
a five-knot stream.

Stopped four hours at Fort Leavenworth to dis-
charge cargo. Walked up the hill, and had a fine view
of the Prairie. This was formerly the starting point
for the emigrants, but is now relinquished for the
route from St. Joseph and the Bluffs. This morning
the Pawnees descended en masse, and had a brush
with the Potowatamies, Talking of Fort Leaven-
worth and the Pawnees, six months ago they seemed
terribly distant objects. I used to think, — " When I
get to Fort Leavenworth I shall be within a mile or
two of the Prairies ; just about to start with hunting
Indians ; and with all sort? of excitement before me.
Ah ! I wish I was there now." How often have I
said or thought the same about a hundred other
places before 1 had scon them. And how often have

REFLECTIONS. 87

I experienced the same feeling as I do now. Not
disappointment. For I knew that when I had
accompUshed my wish I should not be so happy as I
nevertheless Ccvpected. This I knew from experience.
But no amount of experience ever convinces us that
when we have reahsed a desire indifference will be
the result. Indifference is the last state we should
have expected to find ourselves in ; yet how often
does it so happen ! The mind becomes gradually
prepared to enjoy what it has been some time in
obtaining, until, when the object is gained, the
pleasure first looked for has been exhausted by anti-
cipation, and the cause of the enjoyment that was to
have been is contemplated with much the samo
feeling as that with which a man suffering from
repletion regards the display of a sumptuous feast ;
he has spoiled his appetite because he could not resist
luncheon. Long-arranged plans hardly ever succeed
when they arc formed solely for pleasure. It is the
sudden, and unexpected cause of joy that affords the
greatest felicity. The difference is like that which
exists between the man who has been brought up as
heir to a large fortune, and the adventurer who,
without five shillings in his pocket, receives a summons
to put himself in possession of five thousand a year.

88 ST. JOE.

We are seldom tliankful for what wo gain ; yet
complain at all we lose.

2nd. — At St. Joseph by ten a.m. The long-wished
for St. Joe, a3 the Yankees call it. Employed the
whole day in landing our wagons and packing them
with the provisions. Several useful articles are left
behind, and we are all rather annoyed at being
obliged to sleep another night on board the steamer.
Possibly a month hence wo might not consider this
so great a calamity.

Passed the evening with a German, who was to
have started a week ago, but has had his team stolen.
He has no money to buy more horses, and seems not
to have the slightest intention of drawing his own
wagon. He is ludicrously phlegmatic, and appa-
rently has no other object in view but the death of
Time, and most likely of himself, both of whom he is
resolved to drown in an ocean of Seltzer water, which
he has transported in stone bottles the whole distance
from his Vaterland.

3rfi?. — After much bother about a guide, and loss
of linch-pins, fitting of harness, kicking and jibbing of
mules, &c., we left the Missouri, and camped five
miles from the town. We pitched our tents in a
beautiful spot, on the slope of a hill, surrounded by 8,

GAME.

largo wood. A muddy little stream ran at the
bottom. To this (with sleeves turned up and braces
off, trying, I suppose, to look as much like grooms or
dragoons as we were able,) we each led our horses :
no doubt we succeeded, for wo felt perfectly satisfied
with everything and everybody. The novelty put us
all in excellent humour. The potatoes in the camp-
kettle had a decided bivouacky appearance, and
though the grass was wet, who, I should like to know,
would have condescended to prefer a camp-stool ?
As to the pistols, and tomahawks, and rifles, it was
so evident that they might possibly be wanted at
a moment's notice, that it would have been absolutely
dangerou.^ not to have them all in perfect readiness.
Besides there was a chance of finding game in the
wood. If the chance had been a hundred times as
diminutive we were in duty bound to try it.

Without any idea that a battue with rifles on such
uneven ground was not, strictly speaking, conducive
to whole skins, I for one tried a shot on the top of a
tree, and was horrified by a shout from Fred, inform-
ing me that the ball had but just missed his head.
However I contrived to make game o^ '•ne out of a
litter of young pigs, but had some difiiculty to per-
suade my companions that it was a real wild boar.

thp: middle watch.

Previous to leaving St. Joseph wc had been
cautioned that so long as we were in the settlements
wo had as much to apprehend from the white thieves
as we slioulil afterwards have from the red. Accord-
ingly watches for tlic night were organised after the
most approved nautical mot' d. The middle watch
fell to my lot, and, as the unusual hardness of my
bed and the noise of the rain on the tent prevented
my getting even half a wink of sleep, I was not sorry
to be told by the parson that it was my turn to
relievo him in the responsible task of watching over
the lives of our band, and in the duty, still more
responsible, of keeping up the fire. As our vigilance
was unrewarded by detection it would be super-
erogatory to comment upon it ; but it is as well per-
haps to remark that Nelson, my chief officer, and I
went i] e rounds at least once in every ten minutes,
confidently expecting to find a lurking foe in every
bush. At half-past two I informed Fred that all was
right, and left him to keep a sharp look out in the rain,
while I, wet to the skin, took his place in the blankets.

4:th. — The morning was dull and dirty, and
without detracting from the spirit of romance, I might
say the general aspect of our camp was decidedly of a
miserable cast. The now guide, whom we engaged

HAIR CUTTING. 91

yesterday, has not yet joined us : until ho docs so wc
must remain where we are ; for, though all the roads
loading nortlivard terminate at Council Bluffs, wo
understand there are so many of them, that it will be
n difficult matter to avoid tho worst.

In tho course of tho day one of tho n ulcs broke
loose, and left tho camp at full spo'^d for Si,. Joseph.
A. black mare of Fred's is also absent without leave.
This preihlection for a quiet life in tho sottlemonts is
not uncommon amongst cattle, especially when they
have such a foretaste of "roughing it," as the heavy
rains last night cannot fail to have given them. Wo
dispatched the men in all directions to hunt up the
lost animals, and amused ourselves by cutting each
other's hair as short as possible. The object of this
proceeding is cleanliness in the first place, and in the
second a wish to distinguish ourselves from tho
Yankees, whose heads and shoulders have all the
appearance of dusty haycocks in the month of July.
At present we look very like runaway convicts, and
we add to the ridiculousness of our condition by a
running fire of sneezes, the natural consequence of
becoming so suddenly bald.

5th. — The horse and mule are both recovered. Our
guide is with us, having brought a Canadian friend,

WAGGONS STICK PAST.

named Louis, a promising young man, vfhom we have
settled to take as far as Fort Larimie. About ten we
broke up our camp, put the mules into the wagons,
and departed. Nothing could be more provoking
than the behaviour of our teams ; each animal seemed
to vie with its yoke-mate in making itself disagreeable.
If they had any idea that it was necessary to pull
together, they had no idea of attempting to do so, and
all exertions on our parts were discouraged by the
most vehement kicks and plunges on theirs. Fred
and Julius Ca)sar (the parson) return to St. Joe
to buy ropes, picket-pins, harness, straps, and a
variety of articles we had not before thought of, so
that I was left alone to superintend the management
of our unpropitious start. The men were as incapable
of driving as the mules were unwilling to be driven,
and before we had travelled three miles the heaviest
of our wagons was stuck fast, with the two wheels
on one side buried to the axles in mud. Every means
was adopted to extricate it but the right one. At
length I gave the order to unload, and setting the
example myself, lightened the cargo, so that we were
enabled to lift the wheels on to the level ground.

The roads improved as the country became less
wooded and hilly, and towards evening we reached a

SAVANNAH. 93

small village, called Savannah. Here we purchased a
fresh supply of whips, in case of future obstinacy on
the part of the mules, and a small barrel of grease for
the wheels, that they might have no excuse on that
score. A doubt here arose as to which road we had
better take, and I clearly perceived that our guide
was deplorably ignorant of his calling, since in the very
outset he was undecided as to which route we should
pursue. While asking advice at several houses, Fred
and Julius came up. We went together to a saddler's
shop, where we were first weighed, and then
" liquored," and, afterwards taking the road that our
friend recommended, we descended from the town and
camped in an open country, not unlike Salisbury
Plain. Yesterday our home was in a wood ; to-day
it is in a prairie. This change of scene is one of the
most agreeable features of our roving life. Distance,
eleven miles. ^*

Cyth. — Off at nine. Roads hilly and very bad.
mules obstinate. The large wagon turns out to be
twice the weight it ought to be, and gets fixed in
consequence at the first steep hill. Send Jimmy, the
clown, back to Savannah with 150 lbs. of flour,

• I shall continue to give the distance, as near as I can guess it, at the
end of each day.

THE OTTAWAY RTVER.

and sell 100 lb. of lead and 100 lb. of sugar to a
farmer we meet on the road. After this we manage
a little better, but must eat literally a load of salt
pork before the wagons are light enough to travel
fast. Crossed the Ottawa River by ferry, and had
some trouble to get the mules into the boat. At five
we camped in much the same sort of country as
yesterday, only that we have no wood for firing, and
are a long distance from water. Fred and I took
the black mule and all the India-rubber bags, which
we filled from a well with a teacup, and packed back
to the tent. Distance, thirteen miles.

^th. — Started at seven. Roads worse than ever.
Travelling all day through woods. Heavy wagon
as usual sticks in a rut, and is nearly upset. Dis-
charge cargo, and find it hard work to carry the
heavy boxes up the hill. Foraged a hen, one of
many domestic fowls which we discovered in the
thicket, and practised at with our rifles. Stop at
eleven to rest the animals. Fire at a target. Grease
the wheels and start again at two. Come immediately
into the Prairie. What a sight it is ! All the de-
scriptions in the world fail to give one the slightest
conception of its real magnificence. One might as
well attempt to describe the sea to a person who had

THE PRAIRIE.

never seen it, as to paint in language the calm
grandeur, and boundless extent, of the roiling prairie.
All hands were excited to enthusiasm by the glorious
prospect. Even the mules doubled their speed
when they found how easily the wagons rolled over
the even sward, and the loose horses galloped
through the long rich pasture with delighted friski-
ncss, causing us to chase and herd them in the most
perfect good humour.

In the evening get a fine view of the Missouri, its
banks beautifully bordered by forest. Behind us is a
broken line of curious bluffs : which, but for the
immense flat between them, would seem to have
been formerly the river's banks. An auctioneer
named Jacob, whom Julius agreed in St. Joseph to
take as his servant, overtook us in a buggy. The
agreement was, that Jacob should find his own horses
and receive our protection as an equivalent for his
labour. But it appears that Mister Jacob, a thorough-
bred Philadelphian Yankee, has weathered the parson
in this bargain, inasmuch as he has joined us without
any horses, trusting to our good nature, not only not
to send him back, but actually to mount him to boot.
He declares that if we positively cannot afford him a
horse, he will be most happy to walk to California !

96 YORKSHIREMAN IN THE PRAIRIE,

This being rather too absurd, we shall of course be
obliged to furnish him with a steed. Fred and I are
not much pleased with the imposition, and intend to
give him all the work we can. The weather is
beautiful, but rather hot in the middle of the day, and
the sun has burnt my wrists severely. Get some
milk from an emigrant family — a luxury we shall
seldom indulge in. Distance, eighteen miles.

8^/^ — Still in the Prairie. Pass through several
settlements made by adventurous farmers in a fine
agricultural country. Truly, the situations are lovely;
but I should think the nearest market must be at least
forty miles oiF. However, in an independent country
there is some pleasure in being lord of all one surveys.

Forage a goose. Hind-wheel of small wagon
breaks to pieces ; luckily only three miles from a good
camping ground. Under the shade of some venerable
beech-trees, and " by the side of a murmuring
stream," an old Yorkshireman, with his flocks and
herds and family, was regaling himself on a rasher of
bacon, after the fatigues of his journey. The moment
he asked us to join his party, I recognised his native
dialect in all its pristine purity. We were all equally
rejoiced at meeting with an "old-countryman;"
and as our wagon wanted repairing, and we were

MORMON rHILOSOPIIY.

obliged to stop a day, he volunteered to keep us
company till we were ready to start. He said he
was a Mormon, on his way to the Valley of the Salt
Lake ; that he had lived twenty years in the States,
and had already been as far as the head-waters of
the Platte, towards the present country of his perse-
cuted people. He had returned to fetch his family,
and was now on his way out for the second time. We
were surprised at his intelligence, and asked him
why he had become a Mormon. He answered,
from conviction, and begged of us to be baptised in
the true faith, upon the spot. Our parson argued
the point with him; but his astonishing memory and
acquaintance with the Bible quite overwhelmed all
our cooler suggestions ; and as there was no very
material point in which our creeds were dissimilar,
with the exception of the one on which he insisted,
viz., total immersion in baptism, we yielded as he
grew more impetuous. He entered into an extraor-
dinary dissertation on the origin and meaning of the
word Bible. He assured us the name was given to
the holy book from the circumstance of its contents
having passed some synod of prophets, as an Act of
Parliament passes the House of Commons, hi/ bill.
In vain we explained its derivation from jit^Kiov ;

98 MENDING WHEELS.

j8i/3Aioi/ was as clearly derived from hy bill as our
version of the word Bible. His bald and sunburnt
head, whereon he never wore hat or cap ; his tawny
chest and stalwart arms, were by no means so
ridiculous as his dogmatical assertions, and we for-
bore to laugh. He was pleased with our respectful
demeanour, and by the time he had discovered some
freemasons amongst us, he was in a humour to stuff
us with any quantity of bacon, or do any other kind
act that lay in his power.

During the time occupied by his lecture on !Mor-
monism, Nelson, who is by profession a wagon-
maker, had been cutting up stuff to make new spokes
for the broken wheel. Old Blazard, the Yorkshire-
man, now began to contemplate the workmanship of
the wheelwright. At last, as if he could stand it no
longer, he took both spoke and hatchet from the
Frenchman, and with an honest grunt of indignation
accomplished, with a master hand, in hve minutes, a
job that would have taken the oth ' half an hour.
Using nothing but a large axe, he quickly shaped
the necessary number of spokes, and before dark
had made a wheel far stronger than either of the
remaining threo. Distance, twelve miles.

9//i. — This being Sunday, and there still being

MEAT AT LINDEN. 99

some jobs to be done about the wagons, we remain
all day. Amuse ourselves by firing at a mark in the
river. The parson makes the best shot. After all
hands had bathed, some shoot squirrels in the wood.
Fred takes a walk, and sees a deer, which excites
our sporting propensities immensely. Jacob makes
love to old Blazard's daughter, and gets the woman-
kind to wash our shirts. My wrists are in a most
painful state, and large blisters cover my arms, which
are inflamed to the shoulder. Mrs. Blazard gives me
some cream to rub upon them, which I find very
soothing.

\Oth. — The Mormon wagons start first, ours follow.
Fred and I go in search of the deer. See some fresh-
looking beds, but no game. Return to cavalcade, and
am told my black m-^re, Gipsy, has run away. Take
Louis, the Canadian, and go after her. Find her
tracks in a large wood, and hunt the whole day in
every direction, but are at last obliged to give her
up. On returning to the party, like Mother Hubbard's
dog, lo ! the black mare was found. Passed through
Linden, a small village, where they never kill fresh
meat, because there are not people enough to eat it !
Break another wheel. Camp again with Mormons,
four or five miles from Linden, Distance, twenty miles,

H 2

100 CATTLE DltlVlNfJ.

llth. — As there is no wood to mend our wagon
with, we start directly after breakfast. Fred goes
back to Linden to get the tent poles mended. Julius
takes charge of the party, and I ride on to overtake
the Mormon's cattle and pretty daughter, who have
gone five or six miles on the wrong road. I could
not help smiling at my pastoral doings. Dressed in
corduroys and highlows (we none of us wear coats
or waistcoats), with a red flannel shirt on, my
rifle in one hand, and a pailful of milk in the other,
alternately employed in shouting to about forty head
of cattle, and saying soft things for the benefit of the
Yorkshire maiden.

We had a walk of four or five miles before we
joined the wagons on the main road. Just as I
came up they were crossing a rotten bridge, over a
deep and nasty ditch. The mules were rather
frightened ; and the drivers, losing their presence of
mind, they were within an inch of being pitched
headlong into the hollow. By the greatest good
fortune, a sudden spurring of the wheelers made
them give a simultaneous spring, which saved the
wagon, but proved fatal to two of the wheels. Near
this place was a small farm-house ; its tenants wit-
nessed our misfortunes, and lent us a large cart to

HUNTING ON THE MISSOURI. 101

curry our things as far as a river, called Nitchney
Botiiey, where \.'e could find plenty of wood. After
all we reached our camping ground before the old
Mormon, one of whose wagons fairly capsized in
coming down a hill. Distance, nine miles,

\2th. — Blazard repairs our wheels. We throe
go out liunting in different directions. See the
tracks and skin of a deer, also fresh tracks of wolves ;
put up a wild turkey ; horse too- frightened to allow
me to fire at it ; killed a large snake, marked like
a rattlesnake, and shoot a grey squirrel and two wild
ducks, right and left, with my rifle. When we came
home we made a bargain with Blazard, letting him
have the small wagon for fifteen dollars, on condition
that he took 300 lb. weight for us as far as the
mouth of the Platte. We talk of parting with four of
our men, and packing the mules when we get to
Council Bluffs.

\^th. — The parson and I, hunting all day in
big woods, on bluffs above the Missouri bottom, are
surprised at finding nothing but a turkey. Heavy
storms all the forenoon. While I was taking shelter
under a tree, I happened to look over my head, and
saw a snake twisted round a branch, in a very
menacing attitude, peering down upon us. I called

10 J SNAKK SHOOTING.

Julius's attentioTi, and, raising my rifle, put a ball
exactly through the centre of its head. By degrees,
coil after coil relaxed its hold, till the reptile fell
■writhing to the ground. It measured between six
and seven feet ; and Avas similar in colour to the one
I killed yesterday. I do not know whether they are
venomous or not, and should be sorry to destroy any
more unless they attacked me first.

Passing a farm-house three big dogs rushed out
and seized Coley, a beautiful black and tan retriever
of the parson's ; Coley was sadly bitten, but the
parson made an example of the biggest of his enemies
by giving him the contents of my rifle. Probably if
the dog's master had seen us, he would have treated
us in the same way ; that he might not have a
chance, we galloped off" at our best speed. Fred had
camped in the prairie when we reached him ; of
course another wheel was broken, one wheel a- day
is but a moderate average of breakages. How
other people manage, 1 do not know, but sooner thrn
travel another week with wagons, I would forego
even chocolate and ginger-beer, two of the many
luxuries it was thought necessary for us to travel
with. " What was the use of making oneself uncom-
fortable in an expedition of this sort ? There were

PUAOOED ON BY OXKX. 10:3

privations enough, Heaven knew, without inventing
unnecessary ones. If one liked ginger-beer on the
plains, why not have it ? " Thus it was some argued,
and much profit we had derived from their wisdom.
Distance, fifteen miles.

\ith. — Leave early. In the middle of the day
come to a stream with a deep muddy bottom, and
have a terrible job to cross it. Flog the loose horses
over at last, and the othei's follow. The mules we
have packed with the load of the small wagon ; all
ran away through the thicket after the horses, and
with the help of the trees, managed to throw the
packs off and tear them to pieces. Have the greatest
difficulty to catch the animals, and repack them, and
by the time we have done so, the teams are too tired
to go on. An ox-wagon passes, and we borrow the
oxen to pull us up a bad hill ; slow as these brutes
travel they always keep moving, and will drag a
weight for miles, where the same number of horses
or mules would not move it an inch. This was a
slight help to us, but we were no further advanced
by it, as we had a worse hill to encounter, and had
increased our distance from a stopping place. Are
obliged to unload and carry the things to the top of
the hill. It is ten o'clock before we get the wagon

ill

nil COUNCIL BLUFFS.

up. The iienrc'st water is four miles off. Have the
misfortune to lose my Shakspearc ; this and a Bible
arc the only books T possessed. So tired, that I fall
asleep where I lay down, and go without sujjper.
Distance, seventecii miles.

\5th. — Started with six mules in the team, and
three packed. Halted a few miles from the ferry, at
the mouth of the Platte, to look for Blazard and our
provisions. About two hundred emigrant wagons
were encamped here, Ijut our friend was not to be
found amongst them. Nearly all these people are
Mormons, going to the Salt Lake. Most of tho
Californians are already a fortnight on the road,,
Left Jacob, the auctioneer, with directions to find
Blazard, sell the salt pork and spirits, and follow us
up to Council Bluffs as soon as possible. We doubt
whether we shall ever see Jacob or the Mormon
again.

Camped in a bottom two miles from Cainsville,
and about four from Traders' Point on the Missouri.
The whole district is called Council Bluffs, from a
meeting of many Indir .i tribes which took place here
some years ago. Hitherto our troubles have been
somewhat numerous ; we have broken down or met
with some disaster every day. Nearly all of our men

HOW TO GET ON ? 10')

have turned out to bo pcrtbctly useless. The roads
liavo been almost impassable, owing to the heavy
rains ; and we have more than once taken the
longest and worst by mistake : but the most serious
gi-icvanco is, that our nmlcs ai-e beginning to be
galled. Many people h«avc turned back before they
got thus far. I am sure wo find it sufficiently unin-
teresting and disagreeable to make us follow their
example ; yet, nevertheless, we are determined if
possible to go through, and are fully prepared to give
up the wagon and all other luxuries rather than
relinquish the trip.

Fred and I are for parting with all the men,
except Nelson and Louis ; but this plan is not easy
to execute. In the first place Julius thinks his word
will be compromised if he discharges Jacob ; then,
the other men may refuse to leave us, on the plea
that the same agreement was made with them ;
besides, we have no money to pay their wages, or
their expenses back to St. Louis. Ii is evident that
to go on with all these useless men would be worse
than folly. But how to manage ? We are even now
three weeks behindhand. We must give up our
intended route by Fort Pierre and the Yellow Stone,
and if we go straight to Fort Larimie we shall have

lOG TlUDEU's rulNT.

no time for hunting, and shall be pestered with
emigrants the whole way. It really is very dis-
tressing, and I do wish that people who write books,
and inveigle one into this sort of tour, would speak
the truth, and tell of the common-place disagreeables
as well as of the amusements and hair- breadth escapes.
Distance, twenty-three miles.

107//. — llode to Traders' Point with Fred and
Louis. Crossed the Missouri, and called on Major
Barrow, the Indian agciit, for the purpose of asking
him to cash a draft ; he accepted our bills, and
recommended us to take, as far as Fort Larimie,
a half-breed whom he made known to us. He told
us that the inhabitants on this side of the river are
all Indians, and that the whites are not allowed to
settle there. The night was unusually hot, and the
musquitoes very troublesome.

1 ^th . — Spoke to the men about parting. They are
willing to go, and get back how they best can, provided
we pay their expenses and give them ten dollars each.
Nelson remains with us, and Louis is engaged to go
to Larimie for twenty-five dollars and a horse. The
half-breed is hired, for twenty dollars and a horse, to
go the same distance. Major Barrow paid us a visit
and bought the wagon and the harness at an

MYSTERIES OP "TRADING.

107

enormous profit. We also sold him forty pounds of
powder, one hundred pounds of lead, quantities of
odds and ends, and all the ginger-beer. We are
beginning to understand the mysteries of "trading" a
little better than formerly. But somehow or other a
Yankee always " takes us in," and that too in so
successful a manner as always to leave the impression
that we have taken him in. ,

Jacob returned, having sold by auction everything
the Mormons brought up for us. As he has returned,
the question arises whether or not he is to be kept.
I am strongly opposed to taking him, as, independent
of his uselessness, his remaining would be unfair upon
the others. Julius, on the contrary, is equally
anxious that he should stay with us And Fred says
unless Jacob is discharged, he will certainly keep his
servant the clown. I had picked up an Irishman
three weeks ago at Tort Leavenworth, and promised
to do my best to help him through. If I decided for
the same reason not to part with him, I might be
justly accused of endangering all our lives by adding
one more hungry mouth to the party where we could
not carry provisions ; and by giving up one more
horse when we should want in all probabihty double
the number we now had. In parties ot three

108 REACH THE INDIAN TERRITORY.

differences of opinion are sure to arise. How wise
was Ruxton to make the same expedition alone.

\Sth. — A number of Indians visited us tliis morning,
some Pawnees, some Omaha ws. They were about
to set forth on a hunting excursion, and were equipped
with bows and arrows. Anxious to see how well
they could use them, we set up half a dollar on a stick,
and placing them at a distance of fifteen yards, told
them to shoot for the coins. It was amusing to see
them creep up to take aim with as much subtlety as
though they had been stalking a deer. The wind
was high, but they all shot with _,reat accuracy ; two,
in particular, hit the stick and knocked the piece off
several times ; at last one of them fairly struck the
money, and we gave it to be divided between the two.

Left our camping ground in the middle of the day
and ferried the wagon ind the animals over the
Missouri. Pitched the tent for the first time in Indian
territory, a quarter of a mile from the village. In
the evening the whole sky assumed a bluish grey
colour, sucli as I have never before seen, and lightning
flashed 'continuously from every quarter.

1 dtli. — Woke about two hours before daylight, and
found eight inches of water in the middle of the tent.
The fact v.as we had placed the tent in a hollow, and

MAJOR BAItKOW. 109

the rain, which poured in torrents, rushed from the
surrounding slopes, and made one common channel
between our beds. Wc attempted to turn its course
by trenching round the tent, but before we had
accomphshed our labour, the storm increased to
such a degree of violence that it broke the poles and
dashed the tent to the ground. This state of things
left us tolerably uncomfortable till daylight, when we
all went to Major Barrow's house, changed our clothes,
and breakfasted.

The day cleared, and as Ave could not start till the
evening, the Major proposed to get up a race. He
knew of a horse (his own) that could beat any in our
" crowd." He had seen him run a good many times
and "just knowcd how he could shine." Fifty dollars
was the stake and " let him what won take the money."
Fred thought that my little grey horse was as fast as
anything that the Major could produce, and volunteered
to ride if I would let him run. I agreed to back him,
and in less than an hour wc had measured th'^ee-
quarters of a mile on a level piece of prairie, and
were ready for the start ; not so the Major. He had
no idea of allowing his horse to run at a disadvantage.
With his own hands he greased its hoofs, washed its
face, and brushed its hair ; then walking him up and

IJO A RACE.

down a few times with an air of supreme satisfaction,
mounted the half-br*.ed upon the bare-backed steed,
and, leaving a deputy cO see fair play, went with me
to the winning post and gave the signal for starting.
The excitement was immense so long as we could not
see which was leading. Soon we saw that the half-
breed was making the running, which discovery was
answered by the Major's party with loud screams of
exultation. I had great confidence in Fred's superior
jockeyship, and, knowing that he was pulling hard,
felt confident that we should win.

They were now about three liundred yards from the
post ; Fred had never used the spur ; he needed but
to slack the reins ; away dashed the little grey, gaining
at every stride upon the old horse. It was our turn to
cheer ! The Major began to think seriously of his
fifty dollars, when in an instant the fate of the game
was cliaugcd. The little grey stumbles ; he has put
his foot in a hole, he staggers, and with difficulty
recovers himself The big horse must win. Now
for whip and spur ! Neck and neck, in they come —
and which has won the race ? " Well, sir," said the
Major, " slick work, was'nt it, what is 3'our opinion V
I might have known bv this deferential question what
his opinion was. But to tell the truth, I could not

SMARTNESS. 1 1 1

decide which horse way the winner, and so J said,
lie jumped at this favourable decision on my part,
and " calculated " forthwith that it was a dead heat.
I learnt afterwards that he had confessed we had
won, and thought httle of our " smartness " for not
finding it out.

My little grey was thenceforth an object of general
admiration, and the utilitarian minds of the Yankees
could not understand why I was not travelling
through the States with such a pony, and making my
fortune by backing liim against everything of his size.
After dinner we paid off the men and took leave of
them ; poor Jimmy, the cloAvn. left us with tears in
his eyes, and I felt really sorry at parting with my
faithful Irislmian. From the Major we bought a
Cumanche mule, which seems perfectly wild, and took
us nearly two hours to pack. I hope all the mules
may learn to behave better ere long, or we shall
have nothing to do but to pack continually. Directly
the loads are tied on, the biutes set to work and
kick them off again. Now that they are all packed
and free to run where they please, they scamper
about in the open prairie, and send the things flying
into the long grass, where we have no chance of
finding them. To-night they broke the only shot

112

MISFORTUNES.

gun we have witli us, and lost the leather-case for
my rifle with all the apparatus belonging to it.
Made about five miles in three hours, and camped
without our tent.

I> ;

m !

or
it.

CHAPTER IV.

Reach the Elk-Horn Ferry. — Pleasures of Raft-building. — Mosquitos. — Sickness
in »V.e Wilderness. — Doubtful bow far we shall get. — Mouldy Biscuit-dust
and Rancid Hani. — Nest of Skunks. — Antelope Venison washed down with
muddy pond-water. — Battle with the Buffalos. — Dreams of Home. — Buffalo
Beef and Sparkling Foiintain-water. — Mode of Breaking-in young Mules,
practised by the Mexican Indians. — Desperate Quarrel. — Awful Storm, and
a Night in the Wilderness. — Speculations as to " where we are." — Rattle-
snake capital eating. — Drooping Party, vicious Mules, grumbling Servants.—
Cheered by the Sight of Ch'mney Rock. — Arrive at Ash-Point by swimming
the Platte River. — Indian Lodges. — Mode of Preparing a Day-feast by
Mother and Child. — Breakfast with party of Traders. — Arrival at Fort
Tjaiiniie.

June '^\st. — The Camanche mule got loose and
ran back ; we all joined in pursuit, but were unable
to catch her. Jim, the half-breed, followed her to
Council Bluffs, to which point he prophesies she will
run whenever she gets away from us. Weather very
hot, and all the little streams completely dry. Reach
the Elk Horn, and find the ferry broken up by the
Indians. Jim returns with the Camanche, and says
there is a report that the Pawnees have sent to the
Sioux, giving intimation of our movements. Camp

It '■

I '

IJl PLEASURES OF IllVER SWIMMING.

on the banks of the river, cand arc nearly devoured
in tlie night by the clouds of musquitoes. Distance,
twenty miles.

22)id. — The first thing in the morning begin to
construct a raft. There was jjlenty of green timber,
but not many logs dry enough to float. When wo
had collected a sufficient number, we lashed them
together with lariats, and embarking about 300 lb.
weight at a time, ferried over the baggage. The
animals were not so easy to get across. Some of us
were obliged to swim the river (which was sixty or
seventy yards wide) eight or nine times, taking one
horse at a time, or driving two or three by flogging
and shouting behind thom. By the time they had
all crossed, it was too late to continue our march ;
so we lighted our fire at a short distance from the
river, to avoid the musquitoes. These tormentors
were, however, almost as bad this night as the pre-
ceding one. All night we were uttering against
them the most vehement execrations, which nearly
worked us into a fever without succeeding in keeping
them away.

23rd. — Up at half-past three, but not able to start
before seven. As the mules went a little better,
Fred and I turned into a wood to the left of the

FINDING GAME. 115

road. The only thing we saw was a turkey, which
we chased for some distance, but could not get a
shot at. Did not halt till five o'clock. This is a
good day's work. Not far from our camp are a
number of huts made with boughs. Jim pronounced
it to be a spring village of a party of Mohawks, who
have just gone " on the hunt." Distance, twenty-
eight miles.

2^th. — It was my morning watch, and I was up at
one. At half-past three I called the men, and we
got away at half-past seven. It rained hard all day,
much to our discomfort ; and to make matters worse,
the packs came off about eighteen times. Saw five
deer ; we had a long run after them, and Fred's deer-
hound, " Killin," nearly pulled one down. The sight
of game put us in a better humour. This is almost
the first time we have seen any, notwithstanding that
the country we have travelled through is beautifully
wooded and watered, and covered with the finest
grass. Stopped in a deserted village, like the one of
yesterday. Slept under a lodge, and had a good
night without musquitoes. Distance, twenty-five miles.

25^A._Fred and I left early to hunt. Put up
several deer a long way from us, and stalked three ;
but mistaking the look of the hills, which require a

I 2

ili

116 THE MEN FALL SICK.

practised eye to recognise, we crawled for half a mile
on our hands to see tiio deer feeding in quite a
different direction. The moment we raised ourselves
to look about, they left us to laugh at our stupid
miscalculation. The heavy rains had made the prairie
very swampy, and once or twice we were nearly
bogged in riding across the country in search of our
camp. We joined our companions shortly before
dark upon the bank of the Loup Fork, a strong
stream about a hundred yards in breadth. Incessant
storms the whole night drenched us to the skin, and
soaked through the tarpaulins into our baggage. Dis-
tance, nine miles.

26th. — Made a large raft, and crossed the packs in
two voyages. Had a difficult task to persuade the
horses and mules to take the water. Moved five
miles from the river, and camped under three large
cotton, trees. Had neither wood nor water to cook
with. All the party rather out of sorts. Our two
best men, Louis and Jim, are very unwell. Nelson,
Avho is a most willing and hard-working fellow, is
unused to the sort of hfe, and wants to turn back.
As to Jacob, his utter uselessness is a constant
source of provocation to me ; and the parson's indif-
ference, and Fred's misgivings, make the chapter of

I'ACKING MULES — KID GLOVES.

117

our miseries complete. The mules are not much
better off than we are ; five of them are suffering
from severe back-sores, and all of them object
strongly to carrying the packs ; they frequently cast
themselves in the night, and get their legs badly cut
with the picket ropes. It seems after all doubtful
how far we shall get. Some of us talk of going on
alone. I hardly know which would bo most un-
pleasant, to advance or to turn back.

2*7 th. — Camanche ran away. We tried for two
hours to catch her, but were obliged to give it up as
hopeless. The mules travelled worse than ever.
Generally speaking, we have all stopped whenever a
pack required to be re-arranged. To-day we did not
do so ; but continuing the march, left a couple of
men to follow when they had put the disordered
pack to rights. In this manner our party was split
into four or five small ones, which were travelling in
straggling order, sometimes with the distance of four
or five miles between them. The one or two mules
that had kept up with Fred and me, at last kicked
off their loads, and we found it no easy matter to lift
them on again ; the trial was a severe one for his
white kid gloves, but when the grey mule, the most
vicious of the band, flew at him and bit him in the

118 TRAVELLING LUXURIES.

leg, I firmly believed he wished that individual
ouimal, and the whole of its race, in some unpleasant
country which he mentally hoped might be no better
than Jericho.

By the time wo had decided upon an encamping
ground, all hands were in a humour by no moans
accommodating. We had fasted since yesterday
morning, and felt, without acknowledging it, a con-
siderable dash of the wild beast in our compositions.
The clouds of musquitoes did not improve our tempers,
and the horses bleeding at every pore, from the flies,
fidgetted and fretted till we were ready to flog them
from vexation. Our supper, bad as it was, acted as
an immediate restorative ; and, with pipes in our
mouths, we good-humourodly confessed, that if there
was a luxui'y in the v.orld, that luxury was mouldy
biscuit, dust, and rancid ham. Distance, thirty miles.

2^th. — A tremendous storm lasted several hours
during the night. In the middle watch we all
turned out to make a cover of the tarpaulins, and,
huddling together under these, slept pretty well till
day-light. Left the Loup Fork to the right, and
struck northward for a broad belt of timber which we
supposed to be on the banks of the Platte. The
prairie before us was level as far as we could see.

ANTKLOPE HUNT.

Tho grass is long and rank, and in many places
boautifnlly interspersed with small flowers. Tho soil
is a rich loam, and if drained would no doubt produce
most luxuriant crops.

Observed two antelopes feeding close to the roail.
Fred and his deer-hound, Killin, gave chase to the
old one, and Louis and I turned and rode after the
fawn. For a few hundred yards the little antelope
kept us a long way behind, but the speed and superior
strength of my grey pony was more than a match for
its weakness. Finding mo gaining on it, the poor
little creature discontinued its straight course, giving
Louis an opportunity to head it back upon me. It
did not know which way to fly, and dodged from one
to the other till wc closed in upon it. When within
a few yards of me I fired from my saddle, but missed
with both barrels of my rifle. The report warned it
to make a struggle for its life, and away it bounded
with Louis in full pursuit behind. It was amusing to
watch the race ; the more so, as Louis's horse was
too slow to leave any doubt for the deer's safety ; but
the young hunter was eager to establish his reputa-
tion as a sportsman, and spared neither wliip nor
spur in his eagerness to come within shot. At last
Louis perceived the object of his affections was

120 DEATH OF KILLIN,

rapidly increasing the distance between them, and
with a feeUng of despair let go the reins to take up
his rifle, when the horse put its foot in a badger's
hole, and seiit its rider flying over its head. This
catastrophe, which took place in presence of all the
camp, was particnbrly discomfiting to the French-
man's vanity, and he returned to the road with
downcast looks, much to the amusement of the
lookers-on.

Fred's sport had been equally unsuccessful, and
more disastrous in its consequences than ours. He had
followed his game for more than a mile, and had
come ap with Killin just in time to see him drop
down in a fit. The day was excessively hot, and the
dog had been suffering for want of water before we
had seen the antelope. Fred jumped from his horse,
and tried in vain lo recover the hound; it wagged its
tail as its master called it by name, and then it died.
This was a sad loss. Killin was a iavourite with all of
us. He was a present to Fred, and had accompanied
him for some time in his travels through the States.
Poor dog ! it is perhaps better for him to meet with
this sudden death, than be reiierved for hardships we
ii.now not of; in any case, the chances are that no
dog survives so long a journey as this.

SHOOTING THROUGH MUSQUITOES. 121

Shortly before sundown I got a shot at some deer
lying in the long grass, on the banks of a stream.
While I was stalking them, I could ha'-dly see or
breathe for the quantity of musquitoes; they were
always in my eyes, nose, and mouth. The annoyance
of these httle wretches was so great, that I could not
possibly manage to steady my aim, and consequently
missed two of the easiest shots I ever had. Distance,
twenty-five miles.

29<A. — Started at half-past nine. Travelling in the
head of a valley. Left the road to hunt by myself
Saw several deer and antelopes, but the ground was too
level, and the game too wild to suffer my approach.
Hardly caring what direction I took, I followed the
outskirts of a large wood, four or five miles to the
north of the road. I remarked plenty of summer
lodges, but knew ]j the quantity of game in the
neighbourhood, that the Indians had desertcJl them
some time. In the afternoon I came suddenly upon
some deer, and picking out one of the youngest fawns
tried my best to run it down. The country was
rough and I found it hard to keep between the wood
and the young deer. In a few minutes my hat blew
off; then a pistol jumped out of the holster, but I was
too near to give up, meaning to return for these

122 PLEASURES OF THE CHACE.

things afterwards. Two or three times I ran com-
pletely over the fawn, which bleated in the most
piteous manner, but always escaped the death-blow
from my horse's hoofs. By degrees we got nearer
to the wood, and the fawn darted down the side of
a bluff, and was lost in the long grass and underwood.
I followed at full speed, and, unable to arrest 'u
impetus of my horse, we dashed headlong into the
brush, and were both thrown with violence u]3on the
ground. Jumping up, I found that the horse had
received a sprain in the shoulder, and I was obliged
to return, first to look for my hat and pistol, and
afterwards for the road. Both of the lost articles I
recovered after a long search, but galloped about for
hours, in every direction, without being able to see
anything of the cavalcade or their tracks. My horse
was much distressed, and although I was at least
fifteen miles from this morning's encampment, I con-
cluded my safest plan would be to return and follov
the main road from thence.

I had not long adopted this resolution when I
remembered we had camped last evening two miles
off the road, and the ground was too hard to retain a
track. My situation was a disagreeable one ; it might
be two or three days before 1 agr>n f<:H m v/ith the

■I

PLEASURES OP THE CHACE. 123

party. My only chance was to strike the trail, and,
fortunately I was successful. In hunting for a con-
venient place to cross a small and muddy stream, I
came to the very spot where my companions had
crossed. They had proceeded for some distance
through a swamp, so that I was able to follow them
until T could see th j road. I was delighted to get my
poor little grey again on a respectable path; and I am
sure his satisfaction, when he recognised the tracks
of his friends, was equal to mine ; he pricked up his
ears, and made an effort to trot that was quite
incompatible with the limping condition of his leg,
which obliged me to walk by his side and give all the
assistance I was able. There was about two hours
of daylight stil) remaining, and I felt that to overtake
my party I had an ordinary day's journey all before
me. It is astonishing what an appetite a hard day's
work on an empty stomach will give a man in the
prairies. I was quite prepared to walk twenty miles
rather than go without food for another twenty-four
hours, and stepped out accordingly, to get as far as I
could before darkness should prevent me from
discovering my camp. The road wound over a
succession of hills, and every time I surmounted one
of these it was only to be disappointed with a fine

i24 A LONG RIDE.

view of more hills before me. Near one of their
summits was lying the. carcase of a dead buffalo, upon
which a wolf had been enjoying his supper. He
fioemed to have had his fill and to be now indulging
in pleasures of digestion. I almost envied the

brute, and should have been tempted to try a steak
had not the meat been rather high.

When the plains opened upon me no signs of
camp were visible, the wooded banks of the Platte I
guessed to be ten miles from the foot of the hill.
Most likely Fred would not have stopped till he
reached the timber. The tracks in the plain seemed
by t)ie faint light to be very fresh, but the pools of
water through which they passed became so frequent
that I expected every minute to lose them entirely.
At last, before and behind, and on either side of m.e,
the country was deluged with water, in places two
or three feet deep. The musquitoes swarmed in
thousands, and the poor little grey could hardly get
one leg before the other ; I was so feverish that I
several times filled my hat from my horse's back and
took a long draught at the thick stagnant water.
On coming to a little knoll about an hour after dark,
I twice turned to spread my horse-cloth for the night,
but the thoughts of what both the anir ■>] and I should

RANCID HAM. 125

suffer from musquitoes urged me to press on. Still the
pools continued. It was too dark to look for tracks.
Had I met with another dry spot I should have made
it my bed. Of a sudden my beast gave a neigh and
quickened its pace ; I looked up and though I could
see nothing, recognised the sound of voices ; in
another minute a Ught was struck and I was at home.
The quantity of rancid ham I consumed on this
occasion made fliU amends for the length of time I
had fasted. Fred told me that he camped as soon as
he was able, not only on my account but because
he had had a severe fall from his horse, and was
suffering great pain from a bruise on his knee.
Distance thirty miles.

30th. — Woke in the morning soaking wet, and
was surprised to find that I had slept through two
heavy storms. While at breakfast an antelope came
and stared at us from the opposite side of a creek
upon which we were encamped. He was not more
than twenty yards from us, and kept his stand till
we had snapped seven barrels at him ; fortunately for
him the rifles were too wet to go off, and he walked
away apparently unconscious of danger. Carried
the packs over the creek and started at twelve o'clock.
Louis went hunting in one direction, the parson and

126 TOMB IN THE DESERT.

I in another. We brought home nothing, Louis
killed a duck and a badger. Passed the grave of an
American who died in April, 1849. It is a lonely
place to be buried in ; a small piece of deal box is his
tombstone, and nothing more durable than pencil
writing records his name and fate. After all, his
tomb receives more real homage than those of many
greater men. Thousands yearly will pass and pity
him. Forded a creek that we supposed to be Wood
River. Jim, the half-breed, shot a wolf that visited
us ai supper time. Distance fifteen miles.

JuUi \st. — Last night the thermometer was at 38°.
This is the lowest it has been with us yet. Stopped
all day supposing it to be Sunday ; of this, however,
we are not very sure, as there is much difference of
opinion on the subject, and some afiirm positively that
it is Tuesday. Whatever might be the day,
we wanted rest and found it most refreshing.
The general occupation, washing clothes, cleaning
rifles, baking bread in the ashes, and bathing in the
evening.

2mc?. — Roused the men early and were travelling
at half-past six. Saw a vast number of buffaloes'
heads and bones. I left the road and followed
Wood River for seven or eight miles; the stream

WOOD RIVER — THE PLATTE. 127

made a tortuous course through a level prairie, its
average breadth was about thirty feet and depth
about five. The cotton woo«l tree, the elm and the
alder, all of which I observe are most frequently
to be met with, here grew in tolerable abundance.

Prom Wood River I crossed to the Platte on the
other side of the road. The only game I got near
to was an elk ; it was close to me, having come to
drink in the river ; I had plenty of time to observe it,
and as well as I could judge it resembled in all points
the red deer of Scotland, with the exception of its
horns, which were considerably larger than those of
any deer of its size. I was preparing to take aim
when the horse I had been riding finding itself free,
started off" at full speed ; in an instant the elk
disappeared and I was left to catch my wild mare if
I could. Luckily the prairie was intersected with a
number of ditches a yard or two wide, and while the
mare hesitated to jump one of these I caught her.

In returning to the party I accidentally rode over
a nest of skunks. There were two old and five
young ones. The stench they emitted infected the
atmosphere for a circumference of nearly a hundred
yards, and ray horse's hoofs smelt offensively for many
hours afterwards. In the night we heard a drum

128

HUNTING ON THE WOOD RIVER.

on the other side of the Platte. It may have been
beaten either by emigrants or Indians. One of the
men believes we are in the neighbourhood of Fort
Kearney, and thus accounts for the strange sound in
the wilderness. Distance, thirty-two miles.

3rd. — Jim who slept out joined us in time to assist
in packing. Nelson and I went out hunting, rode all
day by the side of Wood River, eight or nine miles from
the waggon trail, saw several deer and thousands of
prairie dogs. In the afternoon we came unexpectedly
upon an antelope. He saw us immediately, but as
quick as possible we were off our horses with our
rifles cocked and raised. He trotted towards us to
reconnoitre and stopped more than two hundred
yards from us; I at once gave the word to fire high,
and both together. The two rifles made but one
report, the antelope made a bound and fell. We
shouted with joy and were running to cut his throat
when the horses took fright and bolted. We well
knew how difficult a matter it was to recover them,
and what the consequences would be if we could not
do so. Down went our rifles in the grass and away
we went. A long chase we had, but caught them
at last, and then went to pick up the rifles, but no
rifles were to be found. Hour after hour we hunted,

PICKETING HOUSES — MUSQUITOES. \i\)

measuring the distance and taking every probable
bearing from tlie dead deer. We walked in line, we
rode in line, we kicked the grass and let the horses
kick it, but all to no purpose. To lose one's rifle
would be as sad a misfortune as to lose one's horse ;
however as long as the game lasted we determined
to remain. But to this extremity we were not
destined to be reduced. I desired Nelson to return
with me to a place from which I had steered by
compass. From this point I took exactly the course
I had before taken, and keeping our eyes fixed on the
ground we pulled up with the two rifles within a
yard of our horses' feet. We soon butchered the
antelope, a fine fat buck, and taking each a half
behind our saddle, with the tongue and deUcacics of
the inside hung at the bows, set out in the best of
spirits for the road. We found the tracks of our
mules, but could not tell how far they were a-head.
We went about eight miles, then turned to a stream
near the trail and camped. After picketing the
horses close to our heads we made a pillow of half
the deer, shared one blanket between us, and fell
sound asleep. In the middle of the night we were
awoke by musquitoes just in time to see the horses
break their lariats and run away. When we had

130 SPY BUFFALOES.

caught them, we could not find our blankets again
till day-light. Distance, twenty-one miles.

ith. — Reached camp at 8 a.m. The party were
breakfasting, but at the sight of venison, the first
that had been brought in, every one assisted in pre-
paring for a good meal. Louis and Jim, being the
oldest hunters, were considered great authorities in
the culinary department, and officiated with profound
dignity upon the loins and steaks, talking with an
amiable pomposity, as they turned the meat upon the
" broche," of wonderful feats performed by nous autres
en haut. The only part I thought worth eating, was
the fry. As for the rest, it was so tough and of such
remarkable high flavour that none but the initiated
could appreciate its merits. In the course of our
march this day, we observed some black objects on
the prairie, which our spy-glasses discovered to be
buffaloes. It is impossible to describe the state of
excitement we were in. Masters and men all wanted
to leave the mules and go after them. Fred was so
eager that, notwithstanding the pain in his leg, he
would not wait till I had loaded my pistols, but in-
sisted that the buffaloes would go before he could get
up to them. Persuaded of this we galloped over a
mile of prairie ; but so far from it being necessary to

BUFFALO HUNT. 181

exhaust our horses in this manner, the buffaloes did
not get on their legs till we were near enough to
shoot at them. At first sight they seem to be the
clumsiest animals in the world ; a large rolling mass
of black hair — one wonders that a horse is obliged to
gallop to keep up with their canter. My mare is
not very fast, and already blown she found it hard
work to gain upon the fugitives. The herd consisted
of five bulls ; the largest of the lot soon separated,
and I followed him, while Fred kept to the others.
When near enough I discharged my rifle, and struck
the bull in the flank ; taking no notice he dashed
on until I pressed him so hard that he turned and
snorted at me Reining up I took a deliberate aim
and placed a ball behind his shoulder, but a little
too high to bring him down. Fred Avho had also
wounded one, came to my assistance and continued
the chase, while I dismounted to load. We '^on
caught him up, and waiting till he turned, I again
fired at his shoulder, and Fred hit him in the leg. I
put the contents of my second barrel into his ribs,
and left Fred, as I thought, to finish him. Still he
held out, and by the time I got my tired mare up to
the besieger and besieged, the latter was at bay,
unable to go farther, and neither of us had a bullet

I *

182 NO WOOD — NO .SUPPER.

left. At last tlio buffalo staggered away, an<l Louis
arrived to witness our disappointment ; both ho and
JuHus had had a hard run, but were botli left far
behind. The cliaco and the heat of the day made
us very tliirsty, and, by way of refreshing ourselves,
we took a long draught from a hot and muddy pit,
using my hat as a cup. Louis was taken so ill from
the effects of this measure, that we had the greates*
difficulty to get him home, which, for the night, \
in the road, not far from the Platte. We could get
no wood, so had no supper. Julius did not come in.
Distance, twenty-seven miles.

5th. — The men arc sulky because they have nothing
to eat but ham and the dust of biscuits, whicli has so
often been wet that it has turned mouldy and sour.
They may consider themselves lucky if they are never
worse off. The parson and I leave camp early,
with the hopes of getting some buffalo meat. While
he was shooting at prairie dogs his Canadian pony,
Jimmy, made his escape, and cost me two hours
hard riding to catch, and being obliged to leave mine
for an instant, I was occupied about the same time in
catching him.

Toward evening we saw a small band of buffaloes,
which we approached by leading our horses up a

BUFFALO HINOLE COMBAT. 133

hollow. They got our wind, however, and were gone
before we were aware of it. They wore all young
bulls, and were so fust, that I was near half an hour
coming up with them. The parson's horse had, in
the outset, put his foot in a hole, and the fall they
got gave the band time to get a long distance in ad-
vance. Separating one from the herd by firing my
pistol into the midst of it, I devotd' all my efforts to
overtake him ; once or twice he turned his unwieldy
body and glared furiously with his small black eyes.
At last I headed him and he stopped short ; I halted
also and waited till I could see his shoulder. But
instead of showing tail, he put his head down, and
foaming with rage, came at me full tilt. My horse
never stirred ; I had no time for anything but to
take aim, and having fired between the neck and
shoulder, I was, the next minute, sprawling on my
back, with the mare rolling over four or five yards
beyond mo. Recovered from the shock, I could not
help admiring the picturesque group we presented ;
I rubbing my bruised limbs, and the buffalo looking
on half stupified and astonished at the result of his
charge. I naturally had certain pi-esentiments that
the proximity of so powerful a foe was somewhat
dangerous ; and, crawling up to my rifle, gave him

134 A KOLAND FOR AN OLIVER.

the contents of mv second barrel. The ball sounded
on his ribs, and he gave a groan, and a swerve that
convinced me he had received a Roland for an Ohver.
The parson now joined me, and followed the wounded
animal without the slightest recognition of my mis-
fortunes ; and I had the satisfaction of seeing him fire
seven shots, none of which, owing to the fright of his
horse, went within yards of the bull. Upon my word,
I begin to think that buffaloes are either very tena-
cious of life, or else that we are unskilful hands in
the science of venery.

When Julius returned, we both tried our utmost to
catch my horse, which could j'lst run on three legs
faster than we could on two. He baffled all our
perseverance, and after driving him befoi'e us for a
couple of hours, during which time we suffered
f\eadfully for want of water, we found ourselves
obliged to halt on the top of some high sandy hills,
six or seven miles from the river. The night was
cold, and we had only one saddle-cloth between us ;
and as we wore neither coat nor waistcoat, our flannel
shirts wet with rain and perspiration, added to rather
than diminished our discomfort. It was useless to
attempt sleep. Every quarter of an hour I was up
diiving my mare to where the parson lay. Once or

NIGHT WATCHES — DREAMS, 136

twice I dozed off, and dreamt that I was in a position
exactly the reverse of my real one. I thought I was
at home telling the events of the day to some old
friends sitting over an excellent dinner, and always
on the point of drinking their health in a frothy pot
of half-and-half. So vivid were these impressions
that the reality seemed to be the dream, and the
dar'aiess favouring the delusion, made me hope that if
I was dreaming, it was between the blankets of a
four-poster. Distance, twenty-three miles.

Qth. — Started with the first appearance of dawn
and drove the mare down to the river. On our way
we were passed by herds of buffaloes coming to
drink. I hit one, but we were in no humour to
fjllow him.

In order to reach the river we had to cross a deep
ditch full of reeds. Here it struck me that I might
catch my horse, and rushing at her she jumped into
the ditch pud stuck fast, up to '.he girth in mud.
We succeeded in extricating her, and afterwards
examined her wound. The horn of the buffalo had
gored her in the fleshy part of the flank, making a
hole, into which a man could insert his four fingers.
The thigh was much swelled, and the hemorrhage
which had nearly ceaseil, had evidently been profuse.

1 3(5 COFFEE DRINKING IN THE DESERT.

The whole leg was stiff and useless, and with regret I
made up my mind that mortification would take place,
and she would die. After we had watered the
horses and secured them to a tree, we stripped and
plunged into the river. At nine we overtook the
party. We had been two days without food, for we
started yesterday morning before breakfast and had
not eaten anything since an early hour the preceding
day. They had waited for us, and the coffee-pot was
on the fire. We drank several cups, which satisfied
our cravings far better than more substantial food.

Our route lay all day close to the edge of the
Platte Ifs waters seem to be rather more yellow
and muddy than when we first struck it. Notwith-
standing their thickness and very peculiar colour, the
flavour is singularly soft and agreeable. The river
was spotted with a few thickly wooded islands. The
timber on those is the only wood to be seen, and we
have begun to use house de vachc for fuel. Several
attempts were made to kill the buffaloes as they came
down their paths from the hills on our right to the
river, but were all alike ineffectual. Late in the day
we turned from the Platte, and leaving it four or five
miles to the south, selected the site of our encamp-
ment by the edge of a stagnant ponrl, whose waters

BUFFALO HUNTING.

137

converted into tea, tasted of a strong impregnation
of frogs. Distance, twenty miles.

7th. — Breakfast over, Jim, the half-breed and I,
made an excursion to the hills, resolved to make one
more trial to procure fresli meat. In less than an hour
we descried a large band of black objects, which Jim
was pleased to say were cows. Leaving our nmles,
(I was reduced to riding a mule from the lameness
of my two hunters,) about a mile and a half from the
herd, we commenced stalking towards it. The
buflaloes were on the brow of a hill which commanded
a view from all sides, so that when we were hnlf a
mile from them wo were perfe* \ posed, and were
obliged to crawl on the ground, not even venturing to
raise ourselves on hands and knees. ' )ur chance
seemed small of getting near enough for a shot, but
as the wind was favourable we advanced without
attracting attention. At last an old bull, the
patriarch of the tribe, rose from his couch to survey
us ; trembling for our safety, we lay flat on our faces,
till satisfied with the result of his scrutiny, he
resumed his recumbent posture, but with his head
exactly towards us. We crawled on, and I was
astonished to find how little these animals depend on
sight for piotcctioii. In short, we gained a point

138 BUFFALO HUNTING.

whence we could see without being seen. Resting
a few minutes to recover breath we took a good look
at the unsuspecting foe, selected the fattest cow and
fired. Off they went helter-skelter, all, save the old
bull, who roared out his rage and trotted up close to
our hiding-place. " Look out for a run," whispered
Jim, " but don't show yourself no how till I tell you."
For a minute or two the suspense was most exciting.
But the bull had not observed us, and returned
again to his wives. According to Jim's orders the
rifles were reloaded, and the herd which had only
moved a few paces, afforded us each a second shot.
The first cow had fallen dead almost where she stood,
the other we found at the foot of the hill with two
bullet holes about the shoulder, " Well," said Jim,
pulling out his knife ; " them's four good shoots any
how. If they arn't a pair of fat cows they arn't
narthen' else." He soon ripped the skin from the
sides, and the tongue, the hump, the tender loin, and
one or two other choice morsels being cut off, I
sent him for the mules, while I proceeded to perform
a similar operation upon the roraaining carcase. It
was my first attempt at butcliering, and I succeeded
in disgusting myself, and hacking the meat as per-
fectly as could be anticipated under the circum-

CHRONOLOGY IN THE PRAIRIE. 18&

stances. Most of the best parts of my cow were
left to the wolves, as our thirst was so intolerable,
we could stay no longer on the scorching sandy
hills.

Our first object after the meat was packed was to
make for the river ; but directly we got to the plain
a sparkhng fountain of the clearest water presented
itself before us. I never shall forget our delight as
we knelt down and turned up our shirt-sleeves
preparatory to plunging our heads into this beautiful
spring ; it was so cold I could not bear my sun-burnt
hands to remain in the water. I thought we never
should be satisfied with drinking. Reluctantly we
tore ourselves away, but with one accord, turned
again to take a farewell draught. I cannot say
I felt much the better for this excess, and poor
Jim fairly "gave out," and threw himself at full
length on the grass quite overcome with sickness :
there I left him, and trotted on to get the meat
home in time for our evening meal. Distance,
twenty miles.

^th. — We did not continue our march this day, for
although we have ascertained that it is Monday,
according to our calculation of last week it ought to
be Sunday ; so as the captain of a ship makes it

140 STARTING A REFRACTORY MULE.

twelve at sea, we took the liberty of making this a
holiday in the prairies. To celebrate the occasion,
I made a grand stew of the buffalo meat, which,
considering the want of appliances, was not otherwise
than a successful one.

The heat at noon was most oppressive ; the
thermometer in the sun being as high as 132".
Our animals are beginning to show the effects of long
marches. One of the mules is too weak to pack.
A horse of the parson's could hardly be kept up
yesterday, and my two hunters are both lame.

9th. — The Camanche mule occupied U3 two hours
in packing, and was severely punished in consequence.
Some one put Cayenne pepper into its eyes to blind
it for the time being, and afterwards pushed it into
the river. This kind of treatment appears unneces-
sarily cruel, but no one who has not dealt with mules
can form any idea of their provoking nature, or judge
of the benefit to be derived from hard blows. It is
said that the Mexican Indians beat their young mules
about the head before they use them, in order to give
them a proper degree of deference for their masteis,
and to prevent them from being easily captured by
strangers. However this may be, they appear to
have an instinctive spite against the human race, and

QUARRELS. 14»1

answer any attempt to touch their heads with the
wildest and most passionate resentment.

While adjustinn;; some packs on the road, Nelson
and Louis had a desperate quarrel. Nelson so com-
pletely lost his temper, that ho drew his knife, and
was on the point of plunging it into the defenceless
Louis. We reprimanded them seriously for their
improper conduct, and telling Nelson that we should
have shot him immediately had he used his knife,
threatened to leave any man on the road who
behaved so disgracefully again. In this manner we
restored the camp to order ; but the two belligerents
uttered such a volley of menacing ejaculations that I
was alarmed lest the feud should be renewed at some
future opportunity. Distance twenty-five miles.

10th. — Last night one of the heaviest storms I ever
witnessed broke over us, and the ground became so
saturated with water that rather than lie down we
sat pcrfhed till daylight on the top of our baggage.
On thd banks of the river we saw a heifer that had
been left by the emigrants. Its hind-quarters were
terribly lacerated by the wolves, and to save it from
a horrible and lingering death one of us gave it the
contents of his rifle. Distance twenty-four miles.

llth. — In the night a storm more terrific than that

142 TEMPEST IN THE PRAIRIE.

of the night before gathered over our heads. Hail-
stones larger than marbles, and shapeless little pieces
of ice rattled upon us. The roar of the thunder
seemed to shake the hills, and one flash of lightning
struck the ground apparently less than twenty yards
from the camp. All the horses fled. Nelson threw
himself on the ground, and covered himself with a
bundle of brushwood he had gathered for fuel. And
I believe the rest of the men thought their last hour
was come, so awful was the war of the tempest.
Travelled from half-past ten a.m. till six o'clock p.m.
Distance twenty-three miles.

12th. — Saw some Mormon waggons on the south
side of the Platte. Wanted one of the men to cross
over to ask them for sugar and biscuit, both of which
we are out of We also are anxious to learn some-
thing of our position, which we imagine to be about
two days from Chimney Rock, and a week from Fort
Larimie. None of the men, however, could be per-
suaded to face the river, whose current here runs
four or five miles an hour. Shot two prairie dogs.
Jim killed a hare and a rattle-snake. They were all
capital eating, not excepting the snake, which the
parson cooked and thought as good as eel. Distance
twenty-one miles.

NEAR CHIMNEY ROCK — NO BOOKS. 143

ISfh. — Travelled eight hours and a half, and made
a good day's march, for the first time since we
started only stopping once to pack. Passed some
sandy hills, and saw the Chimney Rock, The sight
of this very curious eminence was cheering to all the
party. We begin to find the journey tedious and
uninteresting. Sitting six or seven hours in the
saddle day after day, with no greater excitement
than the misbehaviour of the mules and the grumbling
of the men, is at best monotonous. If we had any
books to read it would be a great source of amuse-
ment, but unfortunately we sent all our cumbersome
baggage back to St. Louis on our arrival at Council
Bluffs. True, Fred has a Shakspeare, which we take
it by turns to read, but like his pipe, the only sur-
vivor of all the pipes of the party, one can never
get it when one wants it, or rather one always
wants but cannot always have them. Another
rattlesnake was killed to-day by Fred, Distance
twenty-five miles.

14cth. — A cold and windy day. Odd-shaped sand
hills, worn round by the weather : they looked like
young chimneys. Men and horses suffered much
from musquitoes and sand flies. Camped opposite
some huge cliffs on the other side of the river, which

144 MORMON WAGONS — HERD OP DEER.

we take to bo Scott's Bliifls, The outlines of these
hills resemble fortified citadels, with perfect deceptions
of turrets and buttresses. They only wanted a few
warriors moving athwart the sky to convince us that
they were artificial structures. Had nothing but
boiled rice for supper. Distance twenty-six miles.

15th. — Saw a great number of Mormon waggons,
and one man on a pack-mule going eastward, all on
the other side of the river. We expect soon to meet
something on our side ; the tracks are recent and
numerous. Saw a herd of twenty deer, and nearly
shot an antelope. Encamped on the edge of a wood,
and made a huge fire, as the night was cold. Cooked
the end of a tongue in our rice, and being hungry
thought it excellent soup. Distance thirty miles.

16th. — After three hours' journeying the road
turned down to the river ; following it, we observed
several lodges and a mud building, on the south side.
Jim and Louis gave it as their decided opinions that
these buildings were a station, called Fort Platte, but
on examination of them through our spy-glasses we
saw nothing but Indians, and directed the men to
continue marching. Jim, however, was so positive of
its being a settlement, that he and I went together to
enquire. The water was deep in the river, and the

ASH POINT. 145

current w?is stronji;, so that, aftor tryiui? to ford it with
our mules, we were oWifjerl to leave them on a small
island, and, divestino; ourselves of evei-ything hut
shirts an<l mocassins, took to swinnnin<>;, Jim, who
was the hettei" swimmer of the two, reached the hank
with toleral)le ense ; hut while he laughed at me puffing
and blowini^, I had considerable difficulty in getting
out of the middle stream. Wet shirts and mocassins
were not, strictly speaking, very full <li'ess to visit a
fortress in ; and a fortress of some kind we now dis-
covered it lo be. At all events, we wore as respectable
aslndian.s, and a moi-e iiitimate acquaintance with the
buildino's and its inmates set our minds at ease on this
score. Two or three old traders were gossiping
vogether over their pi])es. on a wooden bench outside
the mud building. Close at hand were a quantity of
Sioux Indians, squatting round their lodges and
lounging about, pictures of idleness and stupidity.
The traders received us civilly, and informed us that,
though not Fort Platte, the name of this i)Ost was
Ash Point, eighteen miles from Fort Larimie. One
of my instructors w\as an old man bearing a strong
resemblance to Mr. Chatillion, a celebrated hunter,
whose acquaintance I had made in St. Louis. I told
the old man I knew a person to w^hom he must be a

HQ INDIAN LODGES.

brother if hiH name was Cliatillion. He said that it
was, and was much pleased to meet one wlio had
lately seen a mciTiber of his family. I gave him all
the news I thought interesting to him, and received
in return a howl of milk and some dried meat. After
this he accompanied me to the river, and showed rne
a canoe, in which I crossed over, and gave my good
tidings to the rest of the camp.

The whole afternoon we were occupied in transport-
ing the baggage ; in the evening we supped with the
traders, upon dried buffalo meat, bacon, new bread,
milk, and coffee. Our hosts, who each possessed a
squaw and a lodge, offered, when supper was ovci*, to
exhibit the interior of their domiciles. As we had
never before seen a lodge, we were much struck with
the air of comfort which they presented. Most of them
were large enough to contain twelve or fourteen
people. The floors were covered witli buffalo robes,
and the tight-spread skins which formed the tent
were stout enough to defy all weathers. In winter
the lodge can be entirely closed, and when a fire is lit
in the centre, the smoke escaping at a small hole
where the poles join, I should imagine the snugness
to be complete.

In front of the entrance to one of these lodges a

COOKIXO A 1X1(1. 117

squaw and Ikm* child were making preparations for a
dog feast. A young pup|)y that liad been i)hiying
witli tlin child was sci/od by tlio woman, and received
from her lialf-a-dozen sharp l)lows on the throat wiHi
a piece of wood about to bo used for firinp;. The
puppy was then returned, kicking:, to tlie tender
mercies of the infant, who exerted its httlo might
to add to tlio miseries of the beast, while the
mother prep, red the fire and a small kettle for the
purpose of cooking. The puppy, still much more
alive than dead, was then taken by the hind-leg and
held over the flames till the woman's fingers could
bear the heat no longer. She then let it fall on the
fire, where it struggled and squeaked most piteously,
and would have succeeded in delaying its end but
that the little savage took care to provide for the
security of his late playmate, by replacing him in the
flames till life was exti:.guished, and the hair
satisfactorily burnt off".

At the conclusion of this tragedy we went home,
and were visited by an Indian of some celebrity. He
was a short thick-set follow, with an amiable, though
coarse, expression of countenance. He produced three
scalps, and told a long story of two Crows and a
Ponkaw, from whom he had " lifted" them this same

h 2

I-IS BKL.VKFAST WITH SOME TRADERS.

season. The CroAvs, it appeared, were his natural
enemies, but the Ponkaw, whom he would not other-
wise have uijured, was m^^t by him one day mounted
on a horse, which the Sioux recognised at once for a
white man's. Upon being questioned as to whose
horse lie was riding, the ?onkaw answered it was his
own, whereupon the Sioux called him a liar, and sent
an arrow throi'gli his body. This account was afterr-
wards confirmed by eld ChatiUion, and was a curious
instance of the mixture of justice and barbarity which
characterises an Indian

Amongst other things, our friend boasted that he
had never acted dishonourably to a white man. Of
this I confessed my increduhty, for not a hundred
yards from our camp were nearly two hundred horses,
mostly American, belonging to his tribe, wliich could
hardly have come into their hands by any means but
theft. Some beautiful Indian ponies were in the lot,
but no price could bu^ them , money is no object to
an Indian ; his horse is the support of liis life ; and
the Arab does not love his steed more truly than the
red man his native pony.

\*7th. — Breakfasted with the traders, most of whom
were Frenchm(

Their

trade is in merchandise, which they bring from Fort

REACH FORT LARIMIE. 149

Pierre, or the posts on the head-waters of the
Missouri, and exchange with the Indians for robes and
pelts. Some few of them have wealth enough for
independence, but are unfit for any other life than
that in which they have been brought up. They are
given to drinking, lying, and stealing when they have
a chance. They marry a squaw probably at every
post they go to, own no house but a lodge, and are, in
short, more contemptible than the Indians, whom
they affect to despise, and treat like beings of an
inferior order. With these men we endeavoured to
exchange our bad animals for better ones, but
emigration has raised the prices here to a greater
exorbitance than below ; and some of us were nearly
giving 150 dollars for horses really not worth 15.

At ten o'clock we left Ash Point, and, travoUing on
a road as broad as any turnpike in England, reached
Fort Larimie at two. The first sight of stone
buildings was very exhilarating. The Ynnkce flags,
the lines of tents, and the attenipls at cultivation, were
undeniable proofs that the first stage of our journey
was at an end, and that a fourth part of the whole
distance was accom))lished. Leaving the cavalcade
on the l)anks of the river Larimie, \vlr"cli half encirt'les
the fort, Frf'd, tlie parson, and I, went to the

150 FOllT LAKLMIB.

quarters of the commanding officer, to whom we had
brought a letter of introduction. At first this gentleman
gave us but a cold reception, but I am sure our appear-
ances would warrant ;iny unfavourable suspicions he
might have entertained concerning our respectability.
After awhile his manner became more courteous, and
he gave us permission to make our encampment
within the government reserve, as close as we pleased
to the fort. Thanking him for this unusual mark of
civility, we returned to our train, and fording the
river, halted on its left bank. To our infinite dis-
appointment, we discovered there was no grass within
four miles, but determined to send the horses next
morning to the place where the troop horses always
fed. Distance, eigiiteen miles, and, according to our
calculation, six hundred and forty-three from the
Missouri at St. Joseph.

CHAPTER V.

Dinner at tlie Quaitcrniastcr's.— Intelligent Yankee Officers. — Exchange Horses.
— TcniHc 8t )rni. — Descrtcis fioui tiie Fort. — Badger Hunt.— Wolf steals the
Kettle. — Disaster with the Mules. — Mormonite Encampment. — Deer Creek.
— Poisonous Springs.— Herd of dead Oxen. — Sweet-water River. — Inde-
pendence Rock. — Travelling Squabbles. — Antelopes. — Sage Hens. — More
Squabbles. — Wo part Company. — Taming a Mule. — Travellers from Cali-
fornia. — William rejoins us.

Jul?/ 21 St. — Went up to the Fort with the intention
of going to church, but called on the Quartermaster,
and found the majority of the congregation collected
there, smoking and drinking champagne. We joined
the party, and accepted their invitation to dinner.
Colonel Soinncr, Major Thompson, Captains Dyer
Vanvleet, a Mr. Stillett, and our three selves filled
the little mess-room. We had a capital feed off a
saddle of young elk and green peas ; our appetites
did justice to the occasion, and I doubt if we ever
made a better dinner. The conversation ran upon
general topics, and we were struck witli the intelli-
gence and information of the oflicers. In other

I5li DINNER PARTY AT FORT LARIMIE.

respects, small blame to them, they were eutirely
Yankee — perhaps, a little more gentlemanlike and
more hospitable than the generality of their country-
men. They seemetl to want the cordiality that exists
amongst brother officers in our army, and I beheve^
would •• give out'" if they were forbidden the use of
the word '• Sir.'" After all, this absence of familiarity,
which is in the nature of the beast, may be no great
harju, for a familiar oath or a practical joke is often
the prelude to unpleasant results. At the present
time a court martial is assembled, which trebles the
number of officers in garrison, and has actually
brought some of them from Fort SneUing, seven or
eight hundred miles off.

2it1i. — Bought eight Spanish mules at seventy-five
dollars each. Thev are all small, but are none the
worse for tiiat, and ai'c very cheap. I wanted to
trade my little grey for a big chestnut horse, but he
was so lame, that the half-breed whom I bargained
with, asked forty dollai's in exchange. I assured
him there was iiot so fast a horse in the whole
country as the little grey, and to convince bin), got on
its bare back to show off its paces. Fresh from not
having been ridden for a long time, he started into a
gallop, which concealed his lameness, and ended by

MUSQUITOKS AND WIIITK HORSES. 153

running away and nearly throwing me. The man
was so pleased with the performance, that he was
ready to conclude the bargain forthwith, but several
spectators standing by wished to secure the pony for
tliemselves, and offered me as much for it as I was
asked to give for the chestnut horse. The conse-
quence was that the half-breed and I exchanged
horses, both very well satisfied with our contract. It
grieved me to part with my hunter, he had carried me
a good many miles, was very fast, and perfectly
docile. His only fault was his colour. A w^hite
horse on the plains is sure to be selected in prefer-
ence to all others by mosquitoes and flies. All our
white or gre^' animals are in far worse condition than
the others, owing entirely to loss of blood from flies.
Julius bought an Indian pony about fourteen hands
high. He himself weighs fifteen stone, rides on a
heavy saddle with a heavy pair of holster pistols,
carries a very heavy rifle and telescope, a heavy
blanket and great coat, a pouch full of annnnnition,
.« girdle stuck with small arms and bowie-knives,
and always has his pockets crammed to bursting.
How he expects so small a beast to carry him over
a thousand miles, is a matter of speculation to us
who are acquainted with his capacities for riding

154 DKEADFIJL STORM.

horses to death. The pony is, no doubt, a good one,
but we consider tliat his days are numbered.

All our cattle wore driven eight miles up the
river and herded for the sake of grass. I went up to
see how they got on, and quartered myself upon a
party of soldiers who were cutting timber for the
fort. Fred engaged an American, called William
Nelson, to go with us to Oregon or California, as wo
may hereafter decide. He is to receive twenty-five
dollars a month, and to be mounted at our expense.

26th. — Paid off Jim, and hired another man named
Potter, who is by profession a teamster, and says he
understands the art of packing mules. Had the
worst storm this night we have yet seen — the ground
appeared to be actually on fire with lightning ; at
the first puff our temporary covering blew away, and
left us to the mercy of the winds and waters. So
much rain fell, that although we were on a sandy
elevation we were up to our ankles in water. Fred
and I sat back to back on our bag of biscuit, and pull-
ing a blanket over our lieads. kept each other warm
till the tempest ceased.

2Qth. — What with getting the horses shod, buying
new lariats, and laying in a stock of provisions, we
have plenty to occupy us. It is a week since we

FRESH SUPPLV OF MMN AND HORSES. 155

arrived, and I fear we shall be here four or five days
more at least. Matters look better than they did ; a
few days since it was thought we should be compelled
to turn back for want of men and nmles, but now
we are Avell su|)plied with both, and have added one
more man to our list this morning ; this was old
Chatillion, who is to be paid 300 dollars at San
Francisco, and to have the entire management of our
marching order. Louis is gone to Fort Pierre, en
haiit, as he calls it, where he will, no doubt, rejoice
the ears of his comrades with wondrous tales of nous
autres en bus. Upon the whole, he has been the best
man of the lot. Always ready for work, and always
gay and good-humoured ; the quickest hand at
catching a horse ; the most accomphshed at packing
a nmle ; the best shot with a rifle, and the most
amusing of the party. Should any gentleman be in
want of such a man for a hunting expedition on the

plains, they may probably hear of Louis Benoit, in
St. Louis. Our half-breed Jim has taken Potter's
place as government teamster. He has been a
useful man, but we shall not miss him as we do
Louis ; with quite as much Lidian as white man in
his composition, he possesses all the vanity of the
superior i-acc, with all the cunning and laziness of

15(5

CAT-FISHINO IN THK LARLMIE.

the inferior. A lialf-brecd is never to be depended
upon ; he is either too proud to servo, or too idle
to command otlicr men. If annoyed, he is cipt to
be revengeful ; and if humoured, is easily spoilt.

The price of provisions and stores at the settlers'
shop here is quite absurd ; they know the emigrants
are obliged to buy, there is no opposition, and they
put fancy prices upon everything. Major Sanderson,
the commanding officer, has permitted us to purchase
some of our stock at the government value, a saving
to us of more than two-thirds of what our expenses
would otherwise liaAC been. Yesterday, eighteen
men deserted from the fort, and have taken the best
horses in the troop. A party left to-day to retake
them, but the odds are greatly in favour of the
desertei's, especially if the capturing party take it
into their heads to slioot their officer, and join the
fugitives in the attempt to make their fortunes in
California.

Caught some cat-fish hi the Larimie, and dined
with Captain Rhete and his Avifc, both very nice
persons, particularly the wife. It seems the height
of conjugal devotion on her part to give up all
society and follow her husband to such a corner of
the earth as this. The task of getting here is bad

HUNTING A IJADGEK. 157

enough for most ladies, but being content to remain,
is a piece of amiability that may serve as a model
for all. Truly, there are men who would rather their
wives stayed at home w^hen they themselves went
abroad, but indeed, for my part, I carmot exactly see
any particular object in having a wife at all in such

cases. Thermometer 146° in the sun.

27th. — J'ive officers paid us a visit. Captain Rhete
mounted us on a couple of chargers and took out his
greyhounds to show us a hunt. We saw one or two
wolves, but not near enough to run. We had a short
gallop after a badger, which we killed, but not till
Rhete had used his pistol, and pinned him to the
ground with a large knife. If the dogs had been left
to themselves, they would not have finished him for
half an hour.

Wolves, like policemen, are numerous enough,
unless you particularly want to find one. Almost
every night we have one or two prowling about the
camp. Several times the remains of our su])per dis-
appeared in a mysterious manner, and having agreed
to sit up one night, we detected a wolf in the act of
walking away with the camp kettle. Nelson, who
was prepared for the thief, shot him with slugs, and
laid him aside, a warning for all future depredators.

IT'

wmm

I5S ALL HANDS SICK.

2Sth. — For mure tlian a week the weather lias
been very rainy. Most of us arc suflering from
severe dysentery ; I for one have swallowed nearly
an apothecary's shop full of paregoric, opium pills,
and cholera powders. This sickness is possibly
owing to the change of diet and general mode of
living. It is for tuna, that we are so near medical
advice ; such severe attacks in the prairies would no
doubt have left one of us by the road side,

31a/. — To-morrow is the first of August, and still
we are here. This is tiresome ; I am sure we ai'e
more anxious to get away fi'om, than we were to
arrive at, this wretched place. I do not remember
to have ever spent a more tedious week than the
last. This ennui is purely from having nothing
to do. Idleness by choice is bad, but compulsory
idleness is worse. I would as lief be a mule's tail,
and switch flies all day long, as have no other
variety of occupations in life but eating, drinking,
smoking, and sleeping ; 'tis beastly, 'tis perfect
piggism ; a sort of laying by to fatten — a process
of enervation which, unresisted, eats, disease-like,
into our natures, till from being shunned as idleness,
that neglect of duty becomes at last a necessary
poison, sweet as habit to the taker. — Reflections

LEAVE FORT LARIMIR AT LAST. I5'J

apart, I wisli we were anywhere but at Fort
Larimie.

August \st. — Brought all the animals down, tied
them up, and packed them. If ever there were other
vicious mules in this world, they must IicV.c uoen
aniiability itself compared with ours. They rolled,
they kicked, they plunged, they screamed, they hit,
as though we ha<l been submitting them to the
torments of the damned. Taking six men to each
mule, we finally lashfd the packs on them so tight as
almost to cut them in two. The moment their heads
were loosed, away they wont into the river, over tiie
hills, and across the country as hard as they could
lay legs to the ground. Oh ! it was a pretty sip^.t !
Tlie flour and biscuit-stuff swimming about in the
river, the hams in a ditch full of mud, the new set of
pots and pans bumping and rattling on the ground
until there was not a morsel of shape left in one of
them. And the pack-saddles, which have delayed us
a week to get made, broken and smashed to splinters.
In this severe trial, old Chatillion turns out perfectly
useless, and is discharged accordingly.

^rd. — Engaged Abraham Morris, and actually
made a start. Fred and the parson remained to take
leave of the garrison ; I rode on to superintend travel-

1(10

LOSS OK COAT —LOSS OP TEMPKR.

ling ; of course every tiling went wrong. The animals
wouLl run bjick ; the rain wet us all through ; I lost my
shooting coat, and the men lest their temper. How-
ever, we have begun a fresh stage, and there i.s a
pleasant change in the scenery ; the country is more
barren, but the road winds through rocky passes, and
the overhanging pinc-trecss are novel and picturesque.
Formei'ly we could sec nearly a week's journey before
us; now the future is left to the imagination, and we
know not what fine things may bo in store for us.
This evening we were in hopes of finding somr. hot
springs which have been described to us, but could not
find them, and halted in a swamp whore the water
was excessively froggy. Distance, twelve miles.

ith. — Up at four ; started at eleven ; six hours
and a half packing twelve mules ! shot a young
prairie dog. Were overtaken by four men with
pack horses ; one of the men was a Scotchman.
The road sometimes hilly. Forded several creeks.
Descending to one we were dcHghtcd with a beautiful
view. The stream wound along the bottom of a
small valley thickly studded with timber ; here and
there a little opening in the trees suffered a strong
light to fall upon the water, which looked the brighter
from the surrounding shade. In the back groimd

LAHIMIK I'EAK — SUN^.'KT.

161

rose the dark peak of Lariiiiie, and as the men in
their red flannel shirts drove tlie mules through the
clear stream, and disapijeared in the grove beyond,
Fred and I paused to admire the strikin<r beauty of
the landscape. The packs came off so frequently, that
in order to encourage the men, we three assisted in
the work. It was past nine when we encamped,
and an hour later we had pickettcd all the horses.
Distance, eightem miles.

5fh. — Called all hands half-past three, and were
rather disconcerted to see the Scotchman stop to
breakfast, having made ten miles before we hj.d started.
Tied all the mules in a string, to prevent them from
scampering about and kicking the loads off. For a
new experiment it succeeded wonderfully, and saved
us a great deal of trouble. Passed through a wild
and undulating country ; the principal feature of
the whole region being its remarkable aridity. From
the summit of one Jjill we looked down upon a
hundred others. The sun was just setting, and
Larimie Peak, towering al ^ve the rest of his train,
partly screened with a shade of the deepest purple a
sky of gold. Some few spots still reflected the
yellow rays of the sinking fire, and clumps of black
pines and cedars leaning from the brows of some

l&Z MORMON WAGONS — WILD SAGK.

rugged steep, seemed majestically contemplating the
death-like stillness of a wooded valley far below them.
Darkness overtook us before we reached the river,
which we had long seen a head, but the horses,
impatient of the slow ^)ace of the tired mules, galloped
on directly they smelt the water, and waited until we
came , p. On the banks of the river were some
Mormon wagons. The ground was covered with
artemisia or wild sage, but unhappily no grass.
Distance, twenty-seven miles.

6th. — Tied the mules in two trains, and started at
seven ; went a couple of miles out of our way by
following an old road that led <o a camping-ground.
The Mormon party, as we passed them, were starting
on a hunt for rwo bears seen this morning a little
way up the stream. Wc were strongly tempted to
join them, but have no time to waste. Went in
advance- to choose a camping-ground. Found a
secluded spot where there wq^s a t'-lerable quantity
of grass, and plenty of water, lleturned to conduct
the trains, and met Fred, with William Nelson,
leading the four fastest mules a long way a head of
the others. It was past nine when they all got in.
Eighteen Mormon wagons stopped clo^e to us, but
did not see the good feed, and had onh sand and

BAD NEWS. ir.8

sage bushes for their cattle. They say tliere are
several hundred Mormon families on the road beyond
us. This is most distressing neus, for even in a grass
country the enormous number of cattle they have
Vt-ith them would not leave much for our horses to
eat ; and in this the soil becomes more barren at
every mile. A storm delayed our supper until nearly
midnight. Distance, nineteen miles.

7th — Packed in an hour and a half; reached the
north fork of the Platte at twelve o'clock. Here Ave
gave the mules two hours' rest, and breakfasted.
Henceforth Fred and I intend each to take charge of
one of the trains, and have chosen five mules that
will best travel together for that purpose. Jacob is
to act as stoker for Fred — William for me. The men
have fiicetiously christened Fred's the express train ;
and as mine has the slowest animals in it, I hav^
named it the parliamentary. The two remaining
pack mules are tf<o slow^ to keep up. and too old to
need special surveillance; one is loaded witii odds and
ends, the otlicr with pots and pans. Tliat they muy
not be left behind altogether, the parson kecp« them
company and jogs along in the rear of all, with
little else to do than smoke his pipe out, and fill
it up again.

M 2

' 164

DKER

CREEK-

—CLEANLINESS.

Reached

Deer

Creek,

a chanuiiig camping

spot,

about five ;

after

supper

enjoyed the unusual hi

xury

of a bathe,

Generally we are too tired or hav

opportunity for bathing; and seldom more than one
day ill the week, I grieve to say it, is allotted for
purification. This, perhaps, sounds uncleanly, but I
will venture to assert that not one man in twenty
thousand who crosses these plains washes so nuich
as his face, on an average once in a month. However,
'■ use doth breed a habit in a man/' and as to the
appearances, they are no object whatever here.
Before we turned in we had a long chat about
England and absent friends, and wondered if they
were talking or thinking of us. The subject was
very exciting, but we managed to sleep soundly
nevertheless. Distance, seventeen miles.

^th. — The parliamentary started first, and kej)t
the lead all day. These trains arc tlie rausc of
much rivali'y, especially with the stokers, who are
sw^orn enemies. But the greatest advantage is the
party spirit tbey have created amongst the men, who
get the w^ork done as quickly as possible, that their
faction may be tbe first in the field. Did not halt
till we arrived at iha upper ferry on the Platte. At
this point there was a considerable difference of

U?PKK FKilHY ON T1]K PLATTE. 1(J5

Opinion between l^'red and me concerning the
propriety of crossing the river to-night. I trietl
several places, but found them impassable. Fred,
however, was persuaded tha*^^ we could, and ought to
ford without delay ; the upshot of our squabbling
was, we remained on the south side, and encamped
two miles below tlie ferry in couipany with the
Mormons. Distance, tvventy-five miles.

[ith. — Endeavoured to ford the river, but the water
was too deep for the small mules, and we paid half a
dollar to have them ferried across by two nicn who
live here till the emigration is over. Earlier in the
year, when the river is swollen and all the wagons
are obliged to make use of their raft, these enter-
prising fellows earn as much as two or three hundred
dollars in /i day. Sometimes, for a very small sum,
they purchase the w«y-worn horses of the emigrants.
They keep them for a couple of months where the
feed is pretty good, and then sell them at an enormous
profit to another party. Tliey live comfortably
enough in a log hut, and can always keep themselves
supplied with veni.son or other game. Fred and
Julius dined with them, and were surprised to see a
temping joint of mutton ; it was mountain sheep, but
they said as good mutton as ever they wished to taste

166 TO CALIFORNIA WITH A WHEELBARROW.

We were told to-day that, not many weeks ago, a
man had crossed this ferry on his ^^ ay to Cahfornia,
with no conveyance but his legs, and no baggage but
what he wheeled in a barrow ; that he overtook all
who travelled with horses or oxen, and that as long
as his health lasted he could walk five-and-twenty
miles a day. The weather is hot and the road dusty.
When we had journeyed three or four hours Julius
remembered that he had left his rifle at the ferry,
and returned to fetch it. Halted for an hour at what
are called the poisonous springs. After trying the
water, which was cold and clear, and finding no objec-
tionable flavour in it, we drank without hesitation, and
were not afterwards any the worse for doing so.
Overtook more Mormons, and stopped with them at
Willow Spring. Distance, twenty-nine miles.

10^/^. — In the middle of the night the parson
returned, but had not observed his mare, which we
picketted by the road side at the poisonous springs,
that he might have a fresh horse to ride on Avith. It
is extremely inconvenient to be obliged to send some
one back, for wc can neither spare men nor days.
As Julius was ill he preferred to remain at the Willow
Spring while Potter went for his horse. In the mean
time we continued on our way. promising to travel

PASS HERD OF DEAD OXEN. 16?

slowly till he caught us up again. This incident, and
the consequent remarks made upon one side for
having left the horse, and upon the other for not
ha.ving brought it on, have created some unpleasant
feelings, which, it is to be hoped for the general
comfort of the party, will soon subside.

Passed sixty or seventy dead oxen ; it is supposed
they have died from drinking at the poisoned springs.
The men are naturally alarmed ; but it appears more
likely, judging from the poor condition they are in,
that the long distances without water, and the scarcity
of food, have been the causes of their death. The
effluvium which proceeds from their carcases is most
disgusting, particularly when it is brought with a fair
wind. Were they not so immerous the wolves would
quickly remove them, but the supply jeing greater
than the demand, beef is at such a disct unt that rot
and the ravens have more matter than they can
conveniently consume.

To the right and left of the road are several lakes
from which the water has evaporated, leaving a thick
deposit of saleratus. This alkali is a useful substi-
tute for yeast, and is frequently gathered by the
emigrants for that purpose. High volcanic mountains
are before us, spurs of the Rocky Mountains ; on one

168 INDEPENDENCE ROCK.

hand the Sweetwater river, on the other Iniepend-
ence Rock. Tlie Sweetwater is the most considerable
tributary of the Plntto, and in tlio vallc}' which bears
its name bufFalos are seen for the hast time on tliis side
of the Rocky Mountains. It has always been a
celebrated Inintiiifr-o'roimd of the Indians, and is
consequently the theatre of war for those tribes which,
from their vicinity, claim it as their own preserve.

Independence Rock was so called by a party of
emigrants who first saw it on the anniversary of the
celebrated 4tli of July; it is a curious-shaped isolated
block of granite, about one hundred and fifty feet
high. On its sides are painted hundreds of names,
with the dates on which their owners passed it. On
the banks of the Sweetwater the gi'ass was more
abundant than we have for some days seen it. There
was no wood nearer thaw the pine on the mountains,
so we made our fire of bushes of wild sage, which
burns brightly and has rather an agreeable smell.
Set up a tent we bought at Fort Lai'imie. This is
only the second time we liave slept under cover since
we left Council Bluffs. Distance, twenty-two miles.

Wtk. — Found an old stove and baked some bread.
Fred and T went out hunting; saw plenty of deer
and fresh tracks of buffalo. We followed the tracks

TRIALS ()V TEMPER. 169

through .1 wild gorge in the mountains, so narrow
that it would only admit of one at a time. A severe
storm of wind and dust compelled us to seek shelter
in the pass. Had a shot at an antelope, which I
missed. Surprised to find on our return that the
parson had not yet arrived.

I2th. — Julius joined us at an early hour. He
complained that we had not left him anything to
eat, and that he had in consequence starved for two
days. Fred said that it was his own fault for not
thinking for himself. Old grievances were brought
to bear, and a severe cross-fire ens>uod, which termi-
nated without loss of blood, but not without some
expenditure of good feeling on all sides. It is
shocking when people quarrel about little things,
where so much give-and-take is absolutely necessary
to the merest approach to comfort ; but, upon
experience, I am convinced there is no severer trial
of a man's temper than such a journey as the one
we have undertaken. In reality, every circmnstance
connected Avith it is provoking and disagreeable, and
it requires a constant and vigorous effort of the mind
to delude oneself into the idea that one is performing
a romantic and heroic act. Now. when a quarrel
arises, and we are told, in language more forcible than

J 70

STALKING WILD (IKESK

pulite, that the whole trip from be^iiiiiiiig to end is a
decided and ridiculous failure ; that we individually
heartily wish we had never heard of Californias and
Rocky Mountains; and that, moreover, we consider
each other, without any exception, as the most
disagreeable and most provoking companions in the
world, the liicts arc so startling as to suggest the
possibility of their being true ; and all noble reso-
lutions which one is incessantly making to behave
like a man, are shaken suddenly to their foundation
by the undeniable fact of somebody having behaved
very like a fool.

Stalked some wild geese, and shot one of them ;
they were marked like what is commonly called in
England the Canadian goose. After dinner, Fred
and I started to hunt with my two horses; the chestnut
I got in exchange at Fort Larimie, and the black
mare, which has now quite recovered from her severe
wound ; we took with us a little pack mule called,
from its colour, Strawberry, and packed our blanket"
and provisions for two days. We rode eastward for
about seven miles, till we came to a camp of Mormons ;
here we found one of our mules that escaped a few
days since, and paid the jjcople who had caught it
three dollars to take it up to our men. Striking

BANKS OF THE HWEETWATEK. 171

thence for the Sweetwater, we continued along its
banks for eight or ten miles, and took oif the sadtUe.s
in a picturesque spot where the river runs through a
pass in the mountains. The day was stormy, but
cleared in the evening, and a rainbow appeared more
perfect in form and colour than any we had ever seen.
We remarked at the time, " We shall always remember
this 12th of August by that beautiful rainbow."

In the afternoon we had observed several herds of
antelope and deer, but did not stop for them, as our
particular object was to take advantage of our last
chance for buftalo. The spot we selected for our
bivouac was everything we could wish. Perfectly
sheltered, abundance of excellent grass, plenty of dry
wood, and a clear running stream. The surrounding
scenery was magnilicent, and the night promised to
be fine. We picketed the horses close round us, and
cooked a leveret for supper which I had shot on the
way ; with this, and a slice or two of raw ham, we
made a delicious repast, and disposing ourselves side
by side upon one buffalo skin while wo covered our-
selves with another, we thouglit, as we watched the
stars through the curling smoke of our pipes, if there
were no greater hardships than such as we now

172 MOUNTAIN SHEEl' — MISSING ANTELOPES.

experienced, that this prairie Hfe wuiikl nut bo so bail
after all.

I3t/i. — At tlaybrcak 1 roused Fred, and soon after
five we were following the river in a southerly course.
We had not gone far before I saw four antelopes
feeding in a bend of the river ; dismounting, I
approached to within about \~)0 yards, fired both
barrels, and missed. My vexation was so great at
this misfortune, that I felt I should not regain my
confidence all day. Wo are by this time i)retty good
shots with the rifle, and to miss a deer is considered
quite a disgrace. For some hours we found no more
game ; hundreds of deer had evidently been drinking
at the river ; where they now were we could not tell.
When we came to the mouth of the Sweetwater we
crossed the Platte, and ascended to the high ])lains
above the river. In every direction we searched for
buffalo, but, alas ! could see none. We were sadly
disappointed, and had no alternative but to retrace
our steps. On our way home Fred had a sliot at an
antelope, and missed it ; I also fired at a young one
that ran straight up to me, but distinguished myself
as my friend had done, much to the disgust of both
of us. When we descended again to the Platte, we

LEAVr: lNl)i:i'KN'I)F,NCE HOCK. 173

halted to breakfast, and slept for an liour, while the
horses luxuriated in the long grass.

Towards evening we met two young Mormons,
bringing down a mountain sheep which they had shot
on the hills ; these sheep are in their habits like the
chamois, — they live amongst the highest peaks, and
jump from rock to rock with the greatest agility.
They are long in the leg, and have coats of sandy -
coloured hair, exactly similar in texture to the deer's ;
their horns are enormous, and as twisted as a ram's ;
they are shy and difficult to a})proach, but well worth
the trouble. The hunter of the Far West prefers
their meat to that of any other animal.

As we nearcd our home wo remarked two Indians
mounted on horses ; they no sooner saw us than they
turned and galloped off in a contrary direction. Had
we seen them sooner, we might have saved ourselves
the trouble of looking for buffalo ; as it is, we must
k(;'']) a sharp look-out for our hoi-ses. William and
the p.Ti'son had been out hunting, but did not get
back til eleven o'clock.

14///. — liCave Independence Rock all very much
out of sorts ; one of the men told a lie about a certain
pack ; I liad accused him of putting some heavy
things out of his baggage into mine, which he stoutly

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174

THE DEVII/S GATE.

denied : having ascertained that he had not spoken
the truth, I fooUshly lost my temper, and reviled him
in the presence of the oti er men. He had the good
sense to hold his tongue, but I knew he would never
forgive me, and felt that another breach had been
made in the harmony of our party.

A few miles from where wo started is a gorge,
called the Devil's Gate ; Julius and I turned from the
road to examine it. We left our horses outside, and
clambering over rocks and stones, entered the pass,
which wc found extremely beautiful. The rocks
which form the gorge appear to have been parted by
an earthquake to a depth of nearly three hundred
feet ; at the bottom of the fissure runs the Sweet-
water, in some places leaping and foaming over the
fragments of granite which have fallen from the sides
of its perpendicular walls ; in others eddying into deep
pools, still and cold from the profound shade which
perpetually darkens them. When either outlet is
visible, a range of blue hills in the distance, blending
with a warm Sn./, gives soft relief to the gloomy jaws
of the chasm. Here we remained a couple of hours
admiring the scene ; smoked pipes, and bathed ; this
latter amusement was somewhat dangerous; suffering
myself to be carried with the stream, I was severely

STUCK FAST IN A SWAMP.

175

cut and bruised, and liad some trouble to get out
again. Wlien we came up with the rear-guard of
our party, we found the five mules of the parlia-
mentar}'^ train up to their necks in a muddy creek.
The packs were sunk to the bottom, and the mules
were all nearly choked or strangled. By cutting the
ropes by which they were tied together, and getting
two or three men to pull at their tails, we at last
succeeded in extricating them. By the time we had
fished the packs out of the mud and spread them to
dry, we were quite ready for our breakfast, but it
appeared that Fred had already stopped for an hour,
and had gone on with the express and all the food.
Julius and I were by no means pleased with this
proceeding, but resolved to camp at the first good
place we came to, wash the packs, and eat what we
could get for breakfast. A brood of sage hens, a
bird resembling the grey fowl, opportunely crossed
our path ; ^ve of these we shot, and congratulated
ourselves on being better off than the othe. half of
the party, which had hurried on without us.

As wo were employed in the preparations for our
meal, Fred's horse came trotting back to us ; soon
after, the rider made his appearance, and, learning of
our misfortune, set off to bring back his train. The

17(5

MEN BECOME MUTINOUS.

adherents of this party expressed their annoyance
at having to return and again unpack their mules.
The others were equally refractory at having been
left without their breakfast, and strong feelings of
dissatisfaction were felt and murmured throughout
the whole camp. For some time past matters have
taken a decidedly perverse turn ; day by day our
consultations have become fewer. Each one seems
to prefer his own plan, and more determined to
adopt it. Our manners as Englishmen are perhaps
more authoritative and imperious than our Yankee
servants have been used to, and I have more than
once overheard complaints that might have been
intended to be interpreted as threats.

It was evident that such a state of things could
not be allowed to continue ; and revolving the
subject in my own mind, I came to the conclusion
that it was necessary to set before the whole party
in plain terms the real condition to which we had
brought ourselves, and the impossibility of proceed-
ing on the same foolish method. I had before
suggested to Julius the probability of being obliged
to break up the party ; and the catastrophes of the
day had, by bringing the general discontent to a
climax, convinced me that this measure was no

AGREE TO SEPAR.VTB. 177

longer to be delayed. Taking Fred aside, I broke
to him the painful intelligence of my intended sepa-
ration. At first it struck him as an unfriendly act.
That we should have been such old allies ; that we
should have travelled so long together ; and now, in
the very heart of the desert, where we should more
than ever need each other's society and assistance, to
part, was an unkindness that nothing could justify.
I told him why I conceived that not only prudence,
but necessity, demanded this step, and left his good
sense to acquit me. Our principle of travelling
diflfered in such a variety of ways : one thought it
necessary to start early and stop in the middle of
the day ; the other thought it better to start late,
and make no halt till dark. One thought it best to
picket the horses at night ; the other was for letting
them run loose. One insisted upon keeping a watch ;
the other thought it would increase our fatigue with-
out adding to our safety. In short, I was of opinion
that the raen were so useless, the packs so heavy,
the rate of travelling so slow, and the party so large,
that if we got through at all, it would be after end-
less hardships, and perhaps at the risk of our lives.
I then spoke to the men, and repeated to them much
of what I had said to Fred, adding, at the same time.

178 REGRETS — RELENTINGS.

that I should take William with me, and that my
two companions would each select those they thought
most active to accompany them ; that the provisions
would be equally divided amongst all, and that
any of the men who did not keep with us would be
furnished with the necessary means of going
forward or turning back, as might seem most
agreeable to themselves.

They received the communication without evincing
any reluctance to part ; and it was then settled that
we should remain this night together, and begin
to-morrow with a new system. Long after I lay down
to sleep, the dreary prospects of the future still forced
themselves upon my mind. Often I felt inclined to
undo all that I had proposed in the morning ; often
my conscience accused me of unfriendliness ; if we
were to suffer, why not share each other's misfor-
tunes ? Again and again I thought of the many
pleasant hours we had spent together, and contem-
plated with pain the future solitude of our separated
lots. But reason suggested arguments that out-
weighed all these considerations. What if our dif-
ferences of opinion should lead to a serious quarrel ;
should we not part then on far more irreconcilable
terms than we did now 1 What if food for our

SHAUE PROVISIONS AND CATTLK. 170

animals became still more scarce, which we had
every reason to believe it would, surely where
there were so many animals some would inevitably
starve where but two or three could have sub-
sisted well. The men, too, had grown mutinous and
discontented. They had seen us work to assist
them ; why should they work for us at all if
we could work for ourselves ? In a large party
we were dependent upon greater numbers, and
were subject to twice as many accidents as we
should be in a small one. Whichever might be
the pleasanter course, there could be no doubt
which was the wiser.

1 5th. — Immediately after breakfast the baggage
was spread upon the ground, and to each individual
was allotted a fair proportion of the provisions. We
then tossed up for choice of animals, which hitherto,
with the exception of our riding-horses, had been the
common property of the three master? Fred, who
had settled to take ^^elson and Jacob, chose six
mules to pack, and one for Nelson to ride. The
parson had offered to accompany me, and we took
between us four mules for packing and one for each
of us to ride. To Potter and Morris we gave each a
riding-mule and an enormously powerful animal,

180 A GENERAL PARTING.

named, from his size, " the Elephant," and frequently,
from his slowness, " the Telegraph," to carry the
haggago and provisions of the two. William, whom
I had meant to take, but had given up as I was
determined to have but one companion, packed a
black mare that had belonged to Fred, and received
as his charger a little mule called " Cream," on
account of its perfect whiteness. This, notwithstanding
its diminutiveness, was the best-conditioned animal
in the herd.

Thus all parties were equipped for their separate
starts. About three o'clock Fred was ready to leave
us. Before he went, he said he hoped to make thirty
or thirty-five miles every day. I said that I should
not, unless obhged, travel more than twenty-five, and
so did not expect to meet again. Fred gave Julius
and myself thirty dollars, reserving only twenty-five
for himself, and promised to wait for me at the ter-
mination of his journey. We then shook hands and
parted with assurances of mutual regard, and ex-
pressed a sincere wish that we might never regret
the apparently strange and sudden resolution which
we were about to test by experiment. Soon after
Fred, Potter, and Morris, took their leave ; William,
preferring his own company to theirs, gave them

TIEINO KNOTS.

181

time to get a few miles in advance. At length he
wished us good luck, mounted little " Cream," and
we were left alone.

The packing we did not find more tiresome than
wo expected ; but the loose horses were most trying
to our patience. I have two besides my mules, and
the parson has three, all of them particularly stub-
born and pervicacious. Not that he thinks so; on
the contrary, he has the greatest possible veneration
for their qualities, and would not for the world have
one of them a jot less stubborn or mulish. In all we
have eleven animals — an awful number for two men
to look after, even if we were not mere amateurs in
the profession of horse-driving. When the animals
were packed and saddled, I had to tie them together
to prevent them running away. This occupied me
nearly an hour, as we could not get the mules in the
proper position, or, when there, persuade them to
stand still. Unfortunately for me, a nautical educa-
tion entails upon me this task, which cannot be
entrusted to the hands of the parson ; for did he
make knots round the necks of the mules, they would
soon take advantage of his unskilfulness, by struggling
for release till they ended by hanging themselves.
Our labours completed, we turned our backs upon

1S2 AN UNLUCKY START.

this memorablo spot : I led the mules, Julius the
horses. Alas ! what new evils were in store for us.

Scarcely five minutes had elapsed from the time
Ave put foot in stirrups, when the horses turned
restive, tried to break loose, entangled themselves in
the ropes, and were cast upon the ground kicking
and struggling so that we could not approach to set
them at liberty. Not daring to leave my charge, for
fear of the same thing happening to them, I stopped
where I was for at least half an hour. The whole of
this time a cold rain was pouring down in bucket-fulls.
But I sat soaking in my saddle, the picture of sullen
misery. Hardly a mile further on our little black
mule, the wildest of the four, took it into her head to
kick off her pack, and in so doing set the remaining
three to imitate her example. It was almost dark.
Our start was doomed to be unlucky. With infinite
trouble we separated the animals, and succeeded
in packing all but the black. When it came to her
turn she would not allow us to come near her. Tired
with a series of unavailing eiforts, I rushed in and
seized her halter; she reared up, and pawing out,
struck me on the chin and neck and felled me to the
ground. My companion, when roused, is a choleric
man ; under circumstances of this kind, I am not the

MULISH VICE CORRECTED. 188

most pacific. A short consultation was held, and we
unanimously agreed to administer punishment to the
olfendcr. With the strength of anger wo grasped
the lariat, and tugging with all our energy, so nearly
strangled the mule that she fell powerless to the
ground. We then got the rope round her nose, drew
it as tight as possible, and while I held on by the end
the stronger man gave her a sound thrashing. Of
course we were both ashamed afterwards for what we
had done, and I should be sorry to attempt to justify
the wilful beating of a brute animal ; but, could an
impartial judge have witnessed the scene, his human
nature would, I am sure, have administered some
slight correction to the malice prepense of the guilty
cause of our wrath. Much tamed by the flogging,
she quietly underwent the process of re-packing, and
when Julius had seen me fairly started, he turned off
the road to a Mormon camp for one of his horses that
had strayed into their pack.

Jogging along at about three miles an hour,
through a wild aiid barren country, by the light of a
full moon, with no company but the four mules, I
thought of the other five led animals, and the trouble
they were sure to give, and heartily wished that I had
done what I once intended at Fort Larimie — taken

ISi

MOST DISAOHKKABF.E DAY HITHERTO.

two riding nnimals and one pack mule, and travelled
entirely alone. Upon the whole, I believe it would
have been the pleasantest, and certaiidy the fastest
and least dangerous way of making the trip. In a
couple of hours I came to a bend in the river; I tried
to ford it, but the vicious grey mule planted her fore
legs and objected to take the water. It was out of
the question to touch her, for she bites like a dog ;
once already this afternoon she did her best to spoil
the symmetry of my much-respected calves, and for
me, once a day is quite enough of that amusement.
Foi" an hour I waited to see if Julius would come to
iny assistance. At the end of that time my patience
was exhausted, and I felt a strong inclination to foil
asleep ; so, preferring my blankets to my saddle, I
threw off the packs, the grey mule's among the
number, not without serious approhcnsinns for my
legs, drove the picket pins into the ground, prayed
that the Indians might not find me out, and closed
my eyes upon the most disagreeable day that the
journey has yet brought to light. Distance, six miles.
1 6th. — At daylight awakened out of a sound sleep,
by the wolves. Called Julius, who had come in about
two this morning. Got off at seven o'clock, and
travelled pretty well till one. Stopped at a fording

TARTY OF NINE RETURNING PROM CALIFORNIA. 185

on tho Sweetwater for nearly three hours, to feed
ourselves and cattle. A Mormon train overtook us,
and lialted at the same place. One old man said,
" You chaps don't seem in no hurry anyhow." We
had passed each other on the road half a dozen times.
I suppose no mule train but ours had over been seen
more than once by any party of Mormons before ;
find considering tha*^ h\^ party had travelled quite as
fast as we had if not faster, he had good reason to
believe that wo were in no hurry. The remark,
however, sounded so much like a taunt, that, had ho
been a young man instead of an old one, I should
have had a strong inclination to tell him to mind his
own business. Passed nine men on their way from
California to the lilast. I put some questions to them,
but received very curt answers. They were a rough-
looking set, and were as rude in manners as in
appearance. All I could learn was, that they had
five mules laden with gold, packed in small square
leather cases, and that the renowned Kit Carson was
acting as guide to the party. They were heavily
armed ; mounted on good animals ; travelled at the
rate of four or five miles an hour ; and were ready to
show ^ght to any impediment they might meet with.
After leaving the ford the road turned from the river,

186 REJOINED BY WILLIAM.

and, passing under some high sandy bluflfs, brought
us into a desert country, covered with sage bushes.
We kept on till about eleven p. m., then went two
miles off the road to look for water, but found none,
and picketed the animals in a clayey hollow,
scattered with tufts of dry grass. Distance, twenty-
seven miles.

1 ^th. — Called Julius before sunrise, and got away
in an hour and a half. At ten we came to the
Sweetwater. Potter and Morris were just leaving it,
and William was packing up. They told us they
had all camped near each other that night, and that
Fred had left at daylight. I asked William if he
would like to join us ; he said he had staid behind on
purpose to do so. Our work I told him was more
than we could well manage; if he would assist us he
should have my chestnut horse for his trouble, and
the advantage of our advice, to say nothing of our
society. He promised to help us all ho could, and
would doubtless have been glad to do so without the
bribe of the horse, as he was too much of a gossip to
care greatly for the solitude of the wilderness. Crossing
over a range of mountains we again struck the Sweet-
water. Four Canadians with a four-horse covered
cart, were resting upon its banks. We stopped a few

STILL ON THE SWEETWATER. 187

minutes to get a shot at some Mge hens, and going
six miles further up the river, made an early halt at
four o'clock. Distance, eighteen miles.

18th. — It began to rain, and grew unpleasantly
cold, directly we had packed. Made a considerable
ascent during the forenoon. Crossed several creeks.
Walked seven or eight miles to keep ourselves warm,
and camped on the green banks of a little stream,
about a mile from its mouth in the Sweetwater. A
high rock sheltered us from the wind, and the sage
bushes, which giew to an unusual size, made a warm
and cheerful blaze. Distance, twenty-four miles.

CHAPTER VI.

South Pass. — Mules left to the Wolves. — Fall ill. — Travelling Mouse-trap. — Big
Sandy River. — More dead Oxen. — Intense Heat. — Green River. — Become
worse. — Brandretli's Pills. — We lose the Mules. — Fall out with Rebecca. —
Trout fishing. — Trappere. — E.tprcss from Oregon. — Character of the Mule,
moral, intellectual, and social. — William's Adventure with a " grizzly Bar."
— Pine Forest. — Anglo-Saxon Reflections. — Soda Springs. — Lose the Spoon and
ill£ Fork. — Fort Hall. — Falstaff Rcdivivus. — Thievish Propensities of the
Indians. — Snake River. — Basaltic Rocks. — Sand and Sage. — Emigrant Train.

August \^th. — It has rained all night. This
morning it is bitterly cold, with a thick mist that
reminds one of the Highlands in winter. The ropes
are like bars of ice, and it nearly takes the skin off
one's hands to tighten up the packs. The poor
animals look more wretched than ourselves, shivering
convulsively, with their ears drooping, their backs
stuck up, and their four feet huddled together in a
bunch. It took us three hours to pack, and we got
away about eleven o'clock, as we guessed, though wo
had seen no sun for two or three days. About noon
the mist changed into a fine rain, and the wind blew
freshly from the north-east ; so that instead of the

CROSS THE SOUTH PASS. 189

fine day wc had hoped for, to cross the South Pass,
ive had a most miserable one, and could see nothing.
We stopped a few minutes at a Mormon encamp-
ment, on our old friend the Sweetwater ; then
crossed, for the last time, the last river we shall see
whose waters run into the Atlantic, and commenced
ascending the nine miles which carry the traveller
to the culminating point of this curious pass. From
Independence Rock, the road gradually becomes
more hilly, but even in this distance the ascent is
hardly perceptible. Arrived at the highest point in
the pass, the elevation is, according to Fremont,
nearly 8000 feet above the level of the Gulf of
Mexico.

The pass itself is many miles broad, undulating on
the surface, but not abruptly. To the north is a
fine range of mountains, called the Wind River chain.
As the day cleared a little, we observed some of the
peaks to be very lofty and pointed, and their summits
covered with snow. The gravel and sand, which
form the surface of the flat expanse between the
mountains, produce nothing but artemisia, or wild
sage. A mile or two west of the most elevated point
in the pass are some fine springs, whose waters feed
the rivers flowing into the Pacific. The little oasis.

190

LUXURIES OP WHISKEY AND RAW HAM.

irrigated by the rise of these springs, contrasts
strongly in its bright green freshness with the desert
aspect of the surrounding country.

The descent on the west side seems as gradual
as the acclivity on the other, with no change in the
scenery which is not decidedly for the worse. We
rode on, longing to find a halting-place for our half-
starved animals. But we had lost the little stream,
and could meet with no more water. Our patience
began tr tire, when one of the mules, the grey mare,
gave out, and refused positively to go another inch.
We had recourse to the usual remedy of beating, but
only succeeded in making her more obstinate. At
length we gave up a battle almost as disagreeable to
us as to the mule, and Isft her tied by the road side,
together with a pony of the parson's, much the worse
for wear, meaning to hurry on to a camping-place,
and fetch them up in the morning. Another hour's
expectation in the dark brought us to a small stream,
where the grass was very scanty ; however, we were
heartily glad to find any place of rest, we were so
wet and cold. Here we threw off" the packs, and,
stimulated with a dram of whiskey, and a slice of raw
ham, cover'^d ourselves, and prepared for a nasty
night. Distance, eighteen miles.

WOLVES EAT THE PONY. 191

20th. — It has not ceased raining, but looks a little

lighter this morning. When I got on my legs I had

a severe attack of chills, and felt extremely giddy

and unwell. Potter and Morris passed us at about

ten, and said they had seen William a few miles

back, looking for the horses. They knew, however,

that he would not return with more than he could

drive, for the wolves had eaten the pony, and the

grey mare had broken the lariat, and was gone.

This, ind 3ed, was bad news : I could only hope that

it was not true ; but WiUiam soon after returned,

and confirmed the account. The grey mare, he said,

he thought the Indians had taken ; — as to the pony,

he had given him the contents of his pistol to put

him out of misery. On examination of our other

horses, old Jimmy was found all but dead. He could

not eat, and was too weak to get as far as the

stream. The cold of yesterday — the last week's

constant wetting — the want of food, and the hard

work, have at last conquered his indomitable spirit.

The rest of our animals have devoured every blade

of grass in this spot ; and the country looks as if we

should never see grass again. So this faithful old

beast, that has carried his master all the way from

St. Louis, must wait patiently till he starves to death,

192 PROVISIONS FAILING — GAME SCARCE.

or is devoured alive by the wolves. It is ta hard
fate, but the other animals seem at the close of
each day more and more likely to share it. If
they do, Heaven only knows how wo are to avoid
it. Our provisions are barely sufficient to last, with
the greatest economy, to Fort Hall, even at the rate
we are travelling at now. Should the horses give
up, it will be impossible for us to carry enough food
to reach that station on foot. There is little or no
game in the country ; and the Indians, who frequent
it, are some of the most inimical tribes.

Juhus and I, upon consideration of these matters,
perfectly agreed that we had undoubtedly come to a
pretty bad pass ; and the only way to get out of the
scrape was to lighten the burden of the pack mules,
by throwing away every ounce of superfluous weight.
Turning out the contents of our bags on the ground,
we selected such things only as were absolutely
necessary to existence. What with lead, bullets,
powder, geological specimens, and old clothes, we
diminished our load so as to make one pack out of
two, and left the ground strewed with warnings for
future emigrants. Perhaps some of those who come
after us will have strange stories to tell of wolves and
bears seen prowling about, in red flannel shirts and

A FIRE ONCE MORE — FORAGE SCARCE. 193

corduroy inexpressibles. I hope some oue, at least,
may profit by our loss. The two leather bags,
emptied of rubbish, were adopted for carrying the
hams. William gave the use of ray chestnut horse
to the parson, and with a very laudable intention of
walking as much as we could, we were once more in
decent condition to continue our journey.

Wishing to get feed for the cattle, William and
Julius put on the packs ; I was too unwell to assist,
and about eight in the evening we parted sorrow-
fully from Jimmy, and left the scene of our disasters.
After travelling for three hours, hoping every mile
to find water, we came to a stagnant pool, where
Morris and Potter had camped for the night ; there
was no grass to speak of, and we determined to push
on. Nothing but sage bushes seemed likely to re-
ward our perseverance, till about two o'clock, when
we suddenly descended to a river where wood and
grass appeared by the light of the moon to be
tolerably plentiful. Here we halted, lighted a fire,
the first we had had for several days, cooked some
tea, warmed ourselves thoroughly, and were soon
asleep in our blankets. Distance, fifteen miles.

21 St. — The grass which had looked so well by
moonlight, did not bear inspection by light of day.

194.

CONTINUED ILLNESS.

Its componont parts were principally weeds which
the horses could not cat. I was, however, so nnwcU
that we could not change our position, but decided
to remain here all day, and move higher up the
stream to-morrow. We are anxious to give our
animals every possible advantage before leaving this
point, as we do not expect to meet with water again
for thirty-five miles — a distance they are in no con-
dition to travel now ; and, considering the want of
water, one that is likely to prove fatal to some of
them. Potter and Morris. A train of ]\Iormons and
two men travelling on foot, with their provisions on
their backs, camped near us. These last have sepa-
rated from some company, and will probably have to
walk to the Salt Lake, distant about a fortnight's
march.

22nd. — Moved five miles up the river to a spot
where the grass was a Uttle better, William killed a
leveret, and missed a shot at an antelope. He boasts
a good deal of his skill as a marksman, and we rallied
him on his want of coolness in losing such a chance
of getting fresh meat. The leveret, however, was a
real luxury to me, as I have lost my appetite, and am
suffering much from weakness. Wanting to take
something out of my carpet-bag, I had occasion to

SAND — NO PORAOE — PASS FIFTY DEAD OXEN. WKt

remove a pair of lace-up boots, and to my sorrow
found the top leather of one complotciy oaten away.
On examination into the cause of this misfortune, a
mouse jumped out of the liolc and made his escape.
The little brute must have travelled sohie distance in
the bag, for it had not been opened for a week, and
the hardness of the boot had given him a secure
abode, while at the same time it furnished him
with a respectable means of subsistence.

2Srd. — Still very uiiwell with chills and fever.
Began packing at two p.m., but were delayed till
seven, by having a long job to catch Strawberry.
The night was fine but very cold. All the packs
came off during the first hour. Eight or nine miles
on the road, we arrived at a large stream, a most
disagreeable surprise, as we found we had mistaken
the river we left to-night, for this one, and had still
thirty miles further to go before we came to Grcou
River. There was not a blade of grass here ; to the
water's edge there was nothing but sand ; the river.
I believe, is called the Big Sandy, and there was
nothing left for us but to push on. Passed more
than fifty dead oxen (an ominous sight for our
cattle), and met two live ones going cast ; they were
too thin to be of any use to us, so we wished them

190 FATIGUE AND SICKNESS — NO GRASS, NO WATEH.

well out of such a, luiscmblo country and let them go.
By walking occasionally two or three miles wo kept
the horses going all night.

2Ath. — About '.laylight we came to several broad
ravines, which we found troublesome to get into, and
worse to get out of As soon as the sun began to be
warm we halted our animals ; more than repose we
could not give them. Poor beasts ! they hunted far
and wide, but found not a blade of grass, not a drop
of water. After we had eaten our raw ham the wind
died away, and the heat became insufi'erable. The
rays from the burning sand were hardly less fierce
than those which came direct from the sun. My
fever was increased tenfold by the want of water.
I crawled to the top of a hill and covered my head
with a blanket ; this protected me from being
scorched, but nearly suffocated me for want of air.
Never in the deserts of the east, nor within the
tropics in the west, have I suffered from heat as I
did this day. As I shifted from knoll to knoll, to
catch the slightest movement in the air, I watched in
despair for a cloud to overshadow the sun. With
evening it came, and I thanked Heaven for the cool-
ness it brought upon us. We soon saddled up, and
encouraging ourselves with the prospects of Green

GREEN RIVER AT LAST !

1U7

River, marclied at a good pace. Till midnight there
was no change in the dreary scene ; all was an ocean
of sand and sage bushes. Of a sudden an alteration
in the face of the country became visible. Two deep
ravines or valleys opened on either side of us, while
we still continued our course along the summit of the
dividing ridge. On reaching the point of this ridge,
which ascended continuously, we at first lost sight of
the track, but discovered it again, making a most pre-
cipitous descent into the ravine on our left. The moon
was nearly at her full, and shone brightly on the
mountain-tops, while it cast a deep shade over the
abyss into which we were rapidly descending. Pines
and cedars started here and there out of the white
clayey soil like gaunt spirits of the vale ; occasionally
they had fallen across our path, causing us to make a
circuit neither safe nor convenient by so uncertain a
light. This position was, on the whole, novel and
striking, and, under any other circumstances, I should
have paused to -nronder at and admire it.

Every turn in the road we expected would bring
us upon Green River, and every little hollow the
horses searched for water. At last it "hove in sight;"
and men, mules, and horses, rushed on at full gallop,
nor stopped till they were knee-deep in the middle of

IDS FORD OUEEN RIVER.

the welcome Mtrcani. Our thirst satisfied, tho next
object was grass, which the animals, not findinj^ on
this side, sought on the other by swimming with their
packs across tho river. Wo followed, and driving
them beft!re us up tho right bank, found a spot which
afforded all tho requisites of a good camping ground.
Wet to the waist, tired and unwell, I was glad to roll
myself up in my blankets, though they, like my
clothes and all the packs, were wringing wet. Dis-
tance, fifty-three miles.

25th. — Sunday. Kept ray bed all day, and had
some severe attacks from chills. The parson read
prayers, and physicked mo mth a boxfull of
Brandreth's pills. This celebrated empiric answers
tlie same purpose to Jonathan, as old Parr does to
John Bull. If iic does no good he has tho decided
merit of doing you no harm.

26th. — vVilliam shot three ducks, and made a stew,
of which I partook and felt much the better for.
Potter and Morris, who had come up yesterday
evening, started in the afternoon. Wo followed soon
after. Our directions were, on leaving Green River,
to keep a north-west course, but to ouv surprise tho
trail ran due south. We thought we had made some
mistake in our calculations, but could not steer

8EEKIN0 THE UOUTE.

100

otherwise on account of a ridgo of mountains whiih
henuned us in on the west. Once or twice the road
scorned to attempt a more westerly coui-sc, but terrific
hills drove us down again to the river's banks. After
proceeding several miles in this doubtful state of
mind we halted to consult, thinking wo had better
wait for daylight, but having determined to go on
wo looked about for our mules, and found that they
had one and all disappeai'cd. We separated to search
for them in dittcrent directions, but always met again
without any tidings of their movements. William
struck a light, and we looked for their tracks on the
road and off the road, but we had ridden about so
nmch that it was impossible to distinguish one foot-
j)rint from another. When all were satisfied that
nothing was to be gained with or without the helj)
of the matches, I proposed that wo should no longer
ftitigue our riding animals by a useless search in tho
dark, but go down to the river and renew tho hunt
in the morning ; the motion being carried without a
division, wo turned off to prepare ourselves for an
uncomfortable night. It was too dark to make out
much about the place where we pulled up ; we could
only perceive that we were in a hollow where harsh
wood grew, but no grass ; the horses we tied to

200 MULE SADDLING — TROUT PISHING.

willow bushes, under which we slept. Distance, six
miles.

27^A. — Nearly all night it rained, and being
without blankets we felt the cold severely. Not in
the best of humours when I got up, I began to
saddle my mule Rebecca, and in doing so received
her two heels exactly between the shoulders, which
sent me sprawling on my face ; and it was not till
I had flogged her with a long willow stick that she
permitted me to finish her toilet for the day. The
direction I took was towards the place we left
yesterday. The other two were to search in the
timber over on the river's banks. Not a sign or
track could I discover, and was beginning to have
misgivings about Indians and all sorts of unpleasant
probabilities, when a whoop greeted my ears from the
bottom below, and I recognised in the glad sound the
signal of William's success. All the animals, and,
strange to say, their packs were safe. It did not
take us long to regaiu the road which, we now saw,
shortly ascended the hills to the west. Crossing
them, wo arrived at a branch of Green River, where
Potter and Morris were already encamped. We also
stopped, intending to pursue our route in tl/e evening,
but, seeing some trout rising in the stream, changed

REMINISCENCES — COMPARISONS.

201

our minds and went out fishing. Julius supplied us
with flies, and, making for ourselves a few yards of
line by twisting up some thread, we fastened them
to the longest willow rod we could find, and sauntered
about flogging the brook as happy as Izaak Walton
himself could have wished to see us. About a dozen
small fish v^ere as many as I wanted to kill.

The evening was fine, and the brook as prett}'^ as
if it had been in Derbyshire. Derbyshire ! and
L — f — d. Yes, it is a very long way from Green
River, yet Green River did remind me of L — f — d.
Dear old place, with its coppices and meadows, and
the brook that reminded me of all, the brook that I
know by heart ; once I think I knew the trout in
it too, but it seems a long time since I saw them, and
worse, it seems a long time before I shall see them
again. That is the fish, that is L — f — d, that is, —
well I never mind. It was a pleasant day's sport,
very. William caught fourteen or fifteen little fishes;
Julius caught some too, and a capital fry they made.
It was near nine o'clock by the time we had finished
eating, and then we went to bed.

I must not forget to mention that while I was
fishing I met two mountaineers herding their horses
on the bank of the river. They were a strange

202 A PAIR OF TRAPPERS.

looking pair. The first genuine specimens of the
trapper I had seen. One Avas a tall lantern-
jawed Yankee, with a wiry form, and face tanned
and freckled till it was as red as his hair ; the other
was a short, lean, half-starved, creature, with a
complexion that showed his Indian blood, in spite of
the bad French with which he accosted me. Their
costume was an entire suit of deer skin, not unlike
washleather in substance and appearance. The
shirt is loose and comfortable in warm weather, but
quite the reverse when it becomes wet. The trousers
aro not of the most fashionaole cut, yet nevertheless
are, with their Icng fringes of stripped leather, as
picturesque to look at as they arc soft to
ride in.

They informed me they had been twelve years in
the mountains, and until lately had gained a liveli-
hood by trapping, but since beaver had become almost
valueless, they had taken to the road-side, and were
doing pretty well hy trading in horses and cattle
with the emigrants. They asked me if I had met
with any Indians. I told theui that I had not seen
any for some time, and did not think there were any
near the road. So little were we afraid of them that
we never picketed our horses at night, never kept

MEET EXPRES8 DISPATCH PROM OREGON. 2U;i

watch, or troubled ourselves the least about them.
The trappers were amazed at ray nonchalance, and
said we had had a narrow escape. The Crows had
been hovering about us all the time we were passing
through their country, " and if they'd ha' know'd of
you," said the Yankee, " by G — d they'd ha' catch'd
yer, and set you all plum a-foot. They wouldn't ha'
done naethen else by G — d." I told them I should
go through as I had come, and trust to Providence
for luck, which, after all, every thing depended on.
They shrugged their shoulders, and said something
about my doing as " I d — n pleased," but " Injians
was Injians, and they know'd it if I didn't." With
this philosophical remark we parted, and I promised
to visit them to-morrow, and perhaps " trade for a
horse with them." Distance seven miles.

28^//. — Packed up and started at twelve for the
mountaineers' camp. We found them at home with
their squaws, and a lot of little half-breeds playing
about their lodges. Julius produced his mare and
traded her for another not much better, and was
obliged to give all the whiskey we had, about a gallon,
and twenty dollars, to make the bargain. While we
were trading twelve soldiers with twelve pack mules
came up ; they M'cre an express dispatch from Oregon

204 DISTANCE PROM OltiiaON NINE HUNDRED MILES.

to the States. We were glad to meet them, as they
had come the very read we intended to ^ravel, and
we asked them a number of questions abovt grass,
water, distance, and so on. The boss, as the head
of the party is always called in America, told us
that we were 900 miles at least from Oregon,
and 200 from Fort Hall. What an awful long
way we have still to go ! 900 miles sound little
enough in a civiUzed country, but no one can form
any idea of the real length of one mile till he has
travelled a thousand with pack mules. There is no
getting used to it ; the labour increases in proportion
as strength, patience, and courage fail. There is no
giving up ; you would only starve. There is no going
back ; it is further to the home behind than the
home before you.

On leaving the trappers they gave us a plate full
of dried meat, told us we should find grass and
water at a fine grove eight or nine miles off,
cautioned us once more to beware of Indians, and
wished us good-bye. It was late when we reached
the pine-grove at the top of some hills, but we found
water as we had been told, and we camped. Distance,
ten miles.

29tL — All day ascending ; the road wound over

ROAD CONTINUES ASCENDING.

205

high hills and througii woods of aspen treeg. Made
an early halt and took off the packs, which we shall
always have to do in future, as the animal's backs
are getting much galled, and the feed is getting worse
and worse. Traversed a succession of small streams ;
one, more broad and deep than the rest, we supposed
may be a branch of Green River. William fired at
a sage hen and woimded it, and frightened Rebecca
with the shot so that she tried hard to kick me off,
but did not succeed, and was flogged for her bad
behaviour. When a mule makes up her mind to
kick a rider off she generally does it. They are
far worse to sit upon than any horse, for they mil
turn round so quickly, using their hind legs as a
pivot, that unless a person is accustomed to waltzing,
he is apt to tumble off with giddiness ; very often
they jump up and throw themselves with such
violence to the ground, that they break the girths
of the saddle, and free themselves in this manner of
their masters. Rebecca is, in some respects, the
most cunning and vicious mule I ever saw, but for
pacing and walking she is perfection. Any mule
can undergo twice as much as a horse, but when
they combine the qualities of a good riding animal
with their extraordinary powers of endurance, one

206 ESCAPE FROM A BEAR.

rudo mulo is worth six horses for an expedition of
this kind.

When we stopped on the slope of a hill, a little
way from the track, it was quite dark. William went
down into the hollow with the kettle to look for water
for our tea. Julius took the hatchet to chop wood,
and I stayed to arrange the camp and spread the
blankets. Suddenly I heard a voice from the bottom
of the ravine, crying out, " Bring the guns ! for God's
sake make haste ! bring the guns ! " I rushed about,
tumbUng over the packs, but could nowhere lay my
hands ^n a rifle. Still the cry was for guns. My
own was not loaded, but it was a rifle nevertheless.
Snatching up this and one of my pistols, which had
fallen into the river a few liours before, and had no
chance of going off, I called to Julius, and ran doAvn
to the rescue. Before I got to the bottom of the hill
I heard groans, which sounded like the last of poor
William. I shouted out to know where he was, and
to my surprise was answered in a voice that dis-
covered nothing worse than extreme alarm. He said
he had escaped — what, I could not clearly make out
till he had recovered sufficient breath and [)resence
of mind to say *' a grizzly bar." It appeared from
his account that he had almost run over a bear, after

BEAR TIUNTINO. 207

which the bear had ahnost run over him. He — viz.
WilUam — had no weapons, but defended himself
gallantly by cobbling the bear with "rocks." At
last ho had made a successful shot, and hit the bear
either upon the nose or in the eye — which it rightly
was he could not swear — but it clearly must have been
one or the other, or the bear would not have been
satisfied with anything short of eating him for
supper. The parson and I laughed heartily at the
conclusion of his story. But this only " riled " him
tho more. He'd bo darn'd but he'd like to make
meat of bar in the morning. If we would go with
him, and follow the trail, he'd go right slick in for
her any how. And if his rifle didn't shoot plum, he'd
got a knife as 'ud rise her hide any how, and no
mistake. We comforted him by promising him his
revenge tho next morning, and left him in the mean-
time to enjoy bear steaks in his dreams. Distance,
twenty-five miles.

SOth. — Not quite decided about the hunt, we sad-
dled the mules, but after a look at tho enormous
tracks the bear had made last night, wo loft the
mules to take care of themselves, put our arms in
order, and sallied forth. Wo tramped over hill and
dale, hitting the track now and then, but not often

208 PINES ABOVE ONE HUNDRED FEET HIGH.

enough to follow our game with any certainty. The
bear might possibly have been as much frightened as
William was ; if so he might now be some miles off
in another direction. At all events, we saw him not,
and were obliged to go on our way hoping for better
sport next time.

About an hour after we started we overtook Potter
and Morris, pulled up by the roadside, dividing their
" plunder," f Dr a separation. What they had quar-
relled about I know not, but considering that they
had confessed to me certain fears lest Indians should
attack them, being only two, it seemed to me rather
remarkable that they should attempt to add to
their security by dividing their forces and travelling
singly.

Passed through a forest of pines, and observed that
they were of a peculiar kind. They taper to a point,
and are bushy and round at the bottom, forming in
the regular gradation of their branches a perfect cone.
The leaf is very fine, long, and of a dark colour.
Some of them were above a hundred feet in height, but
none of an unusual size. I regretted that it was not the
time of year for ripe cones. Their shape and colour
would have made them handsome park trees in
England, and there is no singularity in the soil or

BETTER PAKE — BETTER PK08PECTS.

200

climate of this region to lead one to suppose they
might not be raised to perfection elsewhere.

Descended a steep hill, forded a small stream at
the bottom, crossed another very high hill, and
reached a broad valley, watered by a fine river, and
covered with abundance of grass. Used the summer
lodges of Indians for firing and housing for the night.
Distance, eighteen miles.

31st. — Called the "crowd" before daylight, and
" built " a fire while Julius and William fetched up
the horses. Started in good time, but lost more than
half an hour in a swamp, trying to get to the road.
Once fairly on hard ground there was no holding the
horses, they were so fresh after the good grass. The
mules needed no driving, but trotted four or five
miles an hour with ease. As to Rebecca she curveted
and kicked with a superfluity of spirits that com-
municated its exhilarating influence to the whole
party. Travelling north-west up the valley, we three
times forded a stream than ran into the river. At
noon we halted, having made eighteen miles before
breakfast, a feat which, if often performed, would
soon bring this tedious journey to an end. After
breakfast Rebecca and the horses ran away, and
occupied us an hour in catching them. At the head

P!i

fill

TJii

:>10 ENGLAND AND PAllTllIDGES, VERSUS THE rUAIRlE.

of the valley we turned to the west, and continued to
ascend till we came in sight of a valley still broader
than the one we left this morning, The river we
should have supposed to be the same, but here it
flows from north to south, and the course of the other
was vice versa.

For some reason I cannot account for, 1 felt a
nervous presentiment of danger, and went to sleep
with my pistol under my head. I liad, however, no
occasion to use it, nor was I disturbed till daylight.
I suppose the lingering effects of my fever were the
cause of this unusual feeling. For the life we lead is
singularly calculated to overcome anythuig approach-
ing to timidity, and, indeed, one becomes careless of
perils which at other times might be foreseen, but do
not now demand immediate attention. It is well for
us that it is so, for quite sufl&cient for the day is the
evil thereof. Distance, thirty- two miles.

September 1st. — A hot day, and the road vcrv
dusty. We thought of England and the partridges,
and pictured to ourselves sundry individuals up to
their knees about this time in the turnip fields. It
struck us that their occupation was preferable to ours,
and the question suggested itself, what on earth, or
rather what in California, had brought us all this way

TRAVELLING BUCOMINO TIHESOME. 211

from the partridges to make ourselves misui'ablc upon
short commons and convict labour in a desert. It was
difficult to find a satisfactory answer to this posing
query. People talk about the erratic predisposition
of the Anglo-Saxon race. If the Anglo-Saxon race
have an innate affection for stubborn mules and
rancid ham, the natural consequences of being dis-
satisfied with railroads and roast beef, I am perfectly
ready to respect their self-denial, but cannot admire
their taste. Certainly, I am an Anglo-Saxon, and
very proud of it too. But with all due deference to
the founders of that respected race, I would repudiate
my connexion with them at once, if I thought they
had entailed upon me no more comfortable legacy,
than the faculty of seeking discomfort in every
quarter of the globe. Yet what other reason can I
give for being here 1 If I ever had one I have
forgotten it now. I believe I had as a boy romantic
ideas about Chingachgooks and Longuc Carabines,
but where they have got to now. Heaven knows ;
perhaps they are infusing ideal vio"ons of buffaloed
prairies and moccasined Red-skins, with all their
paraphernaha of scalps and tomahawks into the
juvenile minds of future wf iiderers in the Far West.
Alas ! that familiarity should be so e:reat an enemy

ill

2I;J CAMP ON BEAU RIVKR.

to romance. Alas ! that the last of the Mohicans did
not hvc till tho 1st of September, 1850. Well, if I
have no reason for what I have done, I believe there
are plenty of people in tho world to keep mo company.
And, perhaps, some day, who knows, T may fight my
battles over agairi — my battles with mules I mean —
and not bo sorry that I had a good chance of
improving my temper, and of learning that there
were things to bo thankful for besides railroads and
roast beef, be they never so grateful to John Bull.

At six o'clock wo encamped on Bear River, in a
thick clump of willow brush. The little black mule
wo could not catch, so left her to carry her pack all
night, a just reward for her own folly. Distance,
twenty-eight miles.

2nd. — The morning was cold and fogi^y. The
ground was covered with a hoar-frost tlift made tho
ropes stift' and painful to handle. However, the pace
we travelled soon made us warm, for we trotted and
galloped along at the rate of seven miles an hour.
The country was barren and dry, and the grass com-
pletely scorched up. Coming to a grove of cedars,
we overtook Potter and Morris, who have joined
company again. They were looking for some soda
springs, which they had been told were at a place

VALLEY OF UEAU UlVEtt. 218

like this. From the description we heard, we also
thought they must have been hero. Tiie ground was
white with hnio ; wo were at the head of the valley,
and the river ran through a pass between two high
rocks. The scenery corresponded exactly, but we
could not find the springs. Continuing through the
pass wo came to two roads, one leading to the north,
the other to the west. On our left hand was a high
cliff, on the right a low range of hills, and before us
a large slightly undulating plain. These remarkable
features at once showed us our position. Wo had
entered the valley of Bear River. The high rock on
our left was called Sheep Rock. The road to the
west was one of the most northern branches to
California ; that to the north led to Oregon.

By this time we had, for various reasons, the
lateness of the season amongst the number, given up
all idea of California for the present, and made
Oregon our point of destination ; so, without hesi-
tation, we turned to the right, rejoicing that we
could not be more than sixty or seventy miles from
Fort Hall. At noon we came to a large basin, on
the road side, about ninety feet in circumference and
five or six in depth. The bottom was perforated
with numberless small springs, sending forth jets of

214

THE SODA SPRINGS.

clear AVcater, strongly impregnated with soda and
carbonic acid. At first the taste of this water was
acrid and unpleasant, but a little use made it drink-
able, and even agreeable. It reminded me of flat
soda water, but more nearly resembled Seltzer,
wanting only a dash of rotten egg to render the
flavour altogether similar. The basin itself and the
ground surrounding it are composed of a scum which
forms upon the surface of the water, and, accumu-
lating at the edges, crystallizes and becomes exceed-
ingly hard. The animals, like ourselves, soon became
accustomed to it; and though at first they jerked
away their heads the moment the fizzing liquid
touched their noses, they finally drank it in such
large qupntitiei that I was quite prepared for a case
of spontaneous combustion. After resting here for
two hours, we hurried on till dark, when, leaching a
small stream, we turned off the road, but found the
ground too swampy for camping. A little further on
was a thick cluster of willows ; amongst these we
took up our quarters for the night, choosing a shel-
tered spot to protect us from the wind. William
was much alarmed about his mare, which nearlv
choked while feeding. Found this evening that wd
had left the spoon and the fork at Soda Springs ;

OVERTAKE EMIGRANT TRAIN, 215

rather unfortunate, as the only knife I have left is
more than a foot long, and big enough to cut down a
small tree. Distance, thirty-five miles.

3rd. — A sharp frost in the night. Passed camp-
fires still alight. Since the emigrants had left them
this morning, three bears, a mother and her two
cubs, had followed them on the road for more than a
mile. I should think the track of the big bear's hind
foot was at least ten or twelve inches long ; the
marks of the toes and claws were so plain in the
mud that we were expecting to see them every
minute. In the u\iddle of the day we overtook the
emigrant train, consisting of six waggons. They
were the same party that William belonged to when
he left the States : he had forsaken them, thinking
ho should travel quicker some other way, but, after
all, had not gained much by the excha .^e. The
emigrants told us that Fred, whom they described,
had passed them two days since ; therefore we shall
catch him at Fort Hall. Leave t]:c waggons, and
seem to be getting out of the mountains. In this
vast country, all its features are on a large scale. A
month or tv/o back we were constantly travelling in
prairies, till we got tired of them ; now we have had
just such a dose of mountains, till we should be

216

SAGE BUSHES AND BURNT WEEDS.

happy to compromise by meeting with a Uttle of our
old feed and constant water, instead of heavy hills
and barren pastures. Potter and Morris overtook
us while fording a little stream with a muddy bottom.
We looked about here for grass, but its banks pro-
duced nothing but sage-bushes and burnt-up weeds.
So we turned oflf the road, and encamped upon the
slope of some hills, where the dry tuft grass was
tolerably plentiful. My blankets I spread in a deer-
path, which, fitting to the back, made a most com-
fortable bed. Distance, thirty-two miles.

Mil. — Started early, expecting to reach Fort Hall
to-day. For fifteen miles we travelled through a
desert, with the sand up to the horses' knees. It
was hot and heavy work ; and, from the appearance
of the country, where wild sage, grease wood, prickly
pear, and weeds were the only signs of vegetation,
one might have thought that a cettlement would be
the ' .Ai thing to look for. Suddenly the scene
changed. A fertile valley opened below us : at the
further side of it ran a broad river, thickly studded
with large cotton-wood timber. Near the river was
a cluster of buildings, which we joyfully hailed as
the Fort. After puzzliiig our way through a laby-
rinth of winding rivulets, in one of which William

TRADERS SETTLEMENT.

217

was bogged, we rode up to tlic houses, and were
disappointed to learn that we had only reached a
traders' settlement, and that Fort Hall was five miles
further on. The settlement was not, however, so
unwelcome, but what we could afford to enjoy some
oi' its advantages, in the shape of dried elk and
mi ;o meat, and allow our horses 9 couple of
hours to browse upon the comparatively rich pasture
in its neighbourhood. If it had not been for my
anxiety to see Fred, I should have stopped where I
was ; but thinking he might leave before we arrived,
I pushed on to a spring two miles from the Fort-
Distance, twenty-three miles.

5th. — Was waked by Jacob, on his way back to
the emigre 'it train, in hope of getting provisions
from tliti ! " t'lere were none to spare at Fort Hall.
This wa*- \,n-''- i ,ws indeed, as we had not above a
week's provisions left. Availing myself of the chance,
I « :sii*ed William to accompany Jacob, and, telHng
Jacob that WilUam, as an old friend of the party,
would be more likely to succeed in ].urchasing
anythi • the emigrants did not need for themselves,
promii,..(' to chare equally all we got, if he would do
the same by us. They left together. In the after-
noon. Fred passed, on his way to the traders' settle-

218

PORT HALL,

ment, as there was nothing at all to be got at Fort
Hall. I was delighted to see him again, and, on his
return, walked with him up to the Fort. We both
agreed that, though not much happier since our
separation, we had tra> i ^ 'early twice as fast as
we did before ; and thougi^ 3 temptation, at least
on my part, was strong to reunite, we thought that
probably, in the journey before us, we should more
than ev^er find the advantage of being in small
parties.

When I reached the Fort (this is a real nom de
guerre for a very ordinary mud edifice, walied in
with adobes), Mr. Grant, the commander, was bask-
ing on the shafts of a wagon in front of his portals.
His grey head and beard, portly form, and jovial
dignity were a ready-made representation of FalstafF,
and would have done justice to the character on
the boards of any theatre, without the adscititious
bolsters and bass voices generally considered requisite
to support it. A more satisfactory specimen of " the
old country" could not be wished for. He shook my
hand as if he had known me for half a century, and
conducted me to the sanctum of his castle. Here
we met a family party, consisting of Mrs. Grant,
apparently a most serviceable wife, two grown-up

A GREAT SUPPER — DITTO BREAKFAST.

219

sons, and two or three very pretty little daughters.
At supper I imagined that my prairie appetite would
alarm the domestic circle, for I ate new-laid eggs
and drank new milk till I almost astonished myself ;
but when the second course appeared, and I was
expected to keep pace with my worthy host in
demolishing hot rolls and duck-pies, I felt quite
ap^'-imed of my ' own incapacity, and could only
applaud with veneration an example I could not
imitate. When the repast was over, and we had
chatted and smoked to a latish hour, I took my
leave, sighing at the remembrance of my hospitable
reception, and walked back to my camp. Fred went
with me home part of the distance. After he left
me I lost my way, being misled by the fire of some
Indians, and was an hour or two before I could find
my companions in the dark.

Qth. — Breakfast on trout at Fred's tent, and am
surprised to find it so great a luxury to be waited on.
His three men — he has engaged another man, called
Slater, since he came here — keep everything as clean
and tidy as possible ; and Nelson, who was always a
good cook, and a good fellow besides, was most
assiduous in his attentions, supplying me with hot
fish and clean plates as handily as a London waiter.

220

INDIAN VISITORS.

With US it is quite another story : there the motto
is, every man his own cook, and dirty dishes for us
all. After breakfast I returned to take charge of the
camp, that the parson might walk up to the Fort. One
of his objects in seeing Mr, Grant was that he might
get some fresh horses, to take him on. He had not
long been absent when I received a visit from two
Banack Indians. Their company annoyed me very
much, for it obhged me to watch them closely the
whole time they remained, for fear they should steal
our things, which were spread to dry in the sun.
When an Indian pays you a visit, and squats on his
haunches in the middle of your camp, he generally
manages to seat himself near some object which he
has a fancy for, and takes the first opportunity of
conveying it unseen into the folds of his blanket or
buffalo-skin. From the Banacks I bought some
dried meat, a pair of moccasins, and a bag of the
dried leaves of a weed smoked by the Indians of this
country.

7th.~Judna gave Mr. Grant a cheque for three
hundred dollars in exchange for two horses. They
are both in pretty good condition, and of a better size
to carry his weight than any he has hitherto possessed.
Three hundred dollars is a high price, and I have no

PAHEWELL TO PORT HALL.

221

doubt the Hudson's Bay Company do a good stroke
of business in the course of the year by their trade
in horseflesh. Bought some trout of an Indian, and
cooked them for my breakfast ; smoked kinek kinek
out of a red stone pipe all day long, and enjoyed the
real luxury of gratifying necessary rest. William
returned without any provisions, but with a promise
from his friends of flour and bacon. Some Indians,
passing by as we were trying to catch the mules,
were pressed into our service for the occasion. They
readily assisted us, and were of the greatest use. It
was amusing to see them catch the animals, grown
quite wild with their repose and good feed. They
galloped after them at full speed, and when within
reach of the lariat ropes which dragged from their
necks, let themselves drop like monkeys from their
own horses, snatched up the rope, and vaulted on
again. We stopped at the Fort as we passed it, to
say farewell to Mr. Grant, and pay for a cheese which
an Englishman had made for me. About sunset we
left, with directions to follow a blind path till we
reached Port Neuf river. Several times we lost our
way in the dark, but at last got to the water.
Distance, eight miles.

%th. — Discovered the first thing this morning that

222 PORT NEUP RIVER.

the two new horses had gone back, and that the pack-
cover and a new lariat were left behind. Julius
returned to Fort Hall, to see after them. In the
meantime William and I amused ourselves by fishing
in tne river : we caught some fine trout, of two or
three pounds' weight, and cut a quantity of red willow
bark, for smoking. In the afternoon Julius came back
with the horses. Potter and Morris passed us. We
were not able to move, as the mules had strayed some
distance from the camp.

9///. — Up before daylight. Had a long search for
the animals ; travelled through low swampy ground,
having to cross several bad sloughs, in which the
horses sank to their necks. At noon we halted on
Snake. Hiver, by a large spring. Near this William
shot a duck and two sage-hens. Soon after leaving
the spring we reached the American falls. They are
extremely picturesque, and immediately below them
the river runs through a mountainous range,
remarkable for its beauty of outline and the curious
basaltic formation of the rocks. The columns of
basalt are as perfect here, though not so large, as
those of the Giant's Causeway. The soil is of the
poorest nature, producing no grass, and not even sage
bushes. Towards dusk we began to feel alarmed for

SAflE nUSlIKS. — SAHARA.

223

our canimals, but by the greatest luck I discovered a
small green patch in a deep ravine, at some distance
from the road. We refrained from lighting our fire
till a late hour, lest Potter should see it in passing.
The motive was shockingly unchristian-like, but there
was positively little more than a mouthful of grass
for each of ours, and if that had been shared by the
others, they would all have starved. Distance,
twenty-eight miles.

\Oth. — The morning was cold, and the horses very
troublesome, but we travelled at a good pace, and
halted at noon upon a small stream where a trail
branches off for California. Our course kept to the
northward, and a miserably interesting one it was.
For sixteen miles the surrounding desert rivalled
Sahara for barrenness. I often think that a good
honest desert of sand would be infinitely superior to
this filthy admixture of sand and sage bushes.
There is something strikingly unromantic in a sage
bush : it is a unique emblem of sterility. It reminds
one of nothing in the world, either pleasant or
unpleasant, unless it be of the peculiar smell of and
the peculiar dust, which invariably adheres to the ivy
that hides a coal-hole in the back-yard of a Brompton
villa.

224 SAND — DUST — WILLIAM ON HORSKBACK.

The road was rocky in places, but generally knee-
deep in the finest possible sand. A strong and very
cold wind blew dead in our teeth, and filled every
pore, and covered us from head to foot with the dust.
William presented such a ludicrous appearance that
the parson and I burst into fits of laughter every time
we looked at him. An old felt hat, fastened on by a
red cotton handkerchief, tied under his chin, partly
hid his lantern-jawed visage ; his face, naturally of a
somewhat melancholy cast, w^is screwed into wrinkled
contortions by the efforts he made to resist the piercing
wind. The dust, almost as white as flour, had settled
thick upon him ; the extremity of his nasal organ
being the only spot which, on account of its
prominency, retained its pristine tint and bright-
ness. A pearly drop occasionally descended from
this salient point, and lodged upon a chin wiiich, if
possible, protruded beyond the nose ; his shoulders
were shrugged up to a level with the top of his head,
and his long legs, dangling from the sides of the
smallest of mules, were not more than an inch or two
from the ground, apparently quite independent of
the owner, and giving him a marked resemblance to
a hobby-horse in a masquerade. The animals were
quite as much annoyed by the wind and dust as the

OVERTAKE THE EMIORANTS.

225

rest of us, and ran about as if to avoid it, giving great
trouble to drive them along.

About sundown we came up with the emigruiit train
we had met the other side of Fort Hall. They were
encamj)ed on a small stream, in a marshy bottom,
below the plateau of desert, which divides this creek
from the last. We stopped and supped with them,
upon buttermilk and bread. They complained
bitterly of the hardships of this life, lamenting their
folly in leaving comfortable farms in the States for the
uncertainty of finding better in Oregon. They seemed
to thnk their troubles Avould never come to an end.
They had already been more than four months on the
march, and they had got a long way to go. Their
oxen were suffering from the stony roads, and the
men were tired of their labour. We encouraged them
as much as we could, and, by comparing our case
with theirs, proved to them that there were others
in worse predicaments than they ; which most people,
when aware of, think a subject of congratulation for
themselves. We told them that however slow they
travelled, they had their homes and famiUes con-
tinually with them. They were all, more or less,
used to some hardships, and driving oxen in a waggon
was no harder work than driving the same oxen in a

£86

WE PREACH TO THE EMI0KANT8.

plough. They had plenty of provisioius ; their wives
baked them good bread, for they carried stoves with
them ; they were always protected from the weather,
for if the ground was too wet, they could sleep
perfectly well in their covered wagons ; whereas the
labour of packing mules three or four times a day ; the
impossibility of sending, as they did, one of the party
in advance to choose a camping ground, and the
consequent uncertainty of sustaining the animals ;
our weakness, if attacked by Indians ; the fatal results
that would ensue upon the sickness of any one of so
small a party ; the want of provisions, and the
constant exposure from being entirely without tents,
were evils which, when combined, were what few
emigrants had ever undergone, and which, when
compared with theirs, should remind them of the
many advantages they possessed. Distance, thirty-
two miles.

l\th. — Bought 14 lb. of bacon, 15 lb. of hard
bread, and three loaves, all at a reasonable price.
It is fortunate for us that these emigrants had
provisions to spare. We had none left of our own,
and there are no wagons behind that we could fall
back upon. After breakfasting with the emigrants,
for which we had to pay three dollars, Julius and

NO FOOD, NO GRASS, NO WATEIt. ;>!J7

William each left a horse to be brought on with tiie
wagons, and we started, having nothing now but
serviceable cattle. My little black mare, Gipsy, as I
call her, is the only remaining one of all the animals
we bought in the States. Bad as was her wound
from the buflalo, and constant as her work has been,
she still carries me faithfully. Made fourteen miles
through sage, and nooned upon a small creek with
■^rate grass. Dine off raw ham and water,
without bread. At nine, we camped above Snake
River, without a morsel of food anywhere near.
Distance, twenty-seven miles.

\2t/i. — No change in the country. Have to ride
eighteen or twenty miles before we find water or
grass. The road was full of pointed rocks covered
sometimes a foot deep in loose dust. When I took
oh' Rebecca's saddle, at noon, I observed a small sore
place, about the size of a sixpence, on the skin over
the back-bone. It is almost impossible to ride an
animal all day and every day without chafing it
somewhere. I had hoped that the thick skin of a
mule would escape the certain fate of all horses ;
but this nasty place on the tender part of her back
distresses me beyond measure. I know so well from
experience the dreadful progress of that little sore.

22S A MILE FROM SNAKE EIVER.

Four of the parson'& horses have been killed by
degrees from the effects of these deadly -wounds ;
and already I see myself deprived of the invaluable
services of the best animal of our bancl. In the
afternoon, we travelled by the stream we halted
upon, till it Kunk into a canon and became inaccessible
for eleven or twelve miles. After dark, we arrived
at an opening, which enabled us to get to the water,
and descending, we took off the packs in the hollow.
Distance, thirty miles,

ISt/i. Rose reluctantly. It is hard work to be up
at daylight every morning, camping as we do, several
successive nights, after ten and eleven o'clock. How-
ever, there is no help for it : nothing but patience
and perseverance will bring this drudgery to an end.
Stopped a mile from Snake River, and about the
same distance from the trail. Owing to the height
of the banks above the river, we wore not able to
give water to our animals, and with difficulty pro-
cured a pailful for ourselves. Two miles further on
the road brought us close to the edge of the cafion.
Here we discoveied a small path, and descending a
declivity of nearly eight hundred feet, arrived at the
bottom just" before dark. While searching for grass,
we lost sight of Rebecca and Gipsy, and were obliged

SCENERY OP SNAKE RIVER. 229

to leave them for the night, and go two or three
miles down the river. Fine grass was growing in
great abundance, but in consequence of the long
drought was so salt that the horses could not eat it.
Distance, twenty-two miles.

\Uh. — Sent William up to the road to look for
my journal-book, which I left there last night.
Walked eight or nine miles up the canon to seek
for Gipsy and Rebecca. The mare I found in some
willows ; the mule was hiding herself amongst the
rocks, half-way up the bank. Rebecca's back was
worse to-day ; so that I am obliged to pack her and
ride Uttle Strawberry : a bad exchange for me, as he
has never been ridden before, and does not like
having a bit in his mouih.

The track by which we came down last night being
too steep to ascend, we followed the river along the
bottom of the canon. In some places, it was a
diflBcult matter to get the horses on ; but bad as the
road was, I would rather travel ten miles here than
five by the beaten track through sand and sage.
The scenery at this part of Snake River is most
extraordinary, and by no means devoid of beauty.
The banks are often supported by basaltic columns,
from six to eight hundred feei high. Tbe river.

230 FIND A PARTY OP SNAKE INDIANS.

which averages three or four hundred yards in
breadth, is deep and clear, with a fine sandy bottom,
perfectly free from all alluvial properties. This is
evident from the barren nature of the soil which it
inundates. Unlike other countries, the nearer the
water the less fertile is the land. The whole region
bears undoubted indications of volcanic action. The
rock is perforated or honeycombed like a cinder, and,
where tlie walls of the canon have given way, large
quantities of vitrified matter may be found amongst
the crumbled mass. The dust, also, on the surface,
too fine for sand, appears to be the ashes of ante-
diluvian eruptions in a pr'.crised state. Leaving
the river, we struck a track which V)rouglit us to
it again at a camping-place. We halted here for
three hours, and started about seven with a full
moon.

Crossed a rapid stream, and trotted along in high
glee at the rate of six miles an hour. Shortly before
midnight we were attracted from the road by a hght.
On riding up to it, we found a party of Snake Indians.
Some of them were engaged in drying salmon. Others
were asleep upon the ground. We gave them a small
flask of powder, and picked out half-a-dozen fish.
They seemed perfectly satisfied with the bargain.

THE SALMON FALLS.

2S1

although powder was not of the slightest use, as
there was no rifle or gun in the party.

An hour after we left them, we came in sight of
the salmon-falls. They are formed by a succession
of rapids, extending more than two miles down the
river. The body of water which runs over them is
immense. At a point where the river again becomes
smooth, the road ascends rapidly, winding along the
brink of the precipice. From this spot the view was
magnificent. The moon shone brightly upon the
rushing waters a thousand feet below us. The deep
shadow of the high cliffs falhng upon the bends of
the river, contrasted in their impenetrj-ble darkness
with the brilliancy of the reflecting foam. The vast
plain, which we overlooked, fading in the soft light,
rose gradually into a low range of distant hills. The
continuous roar of the rapids, and the desert stilness
of all else around, combined to produce an effect upon
the mind more imposing than the sight of the great
Niagara.

As the moon went down, the clouds gathered thick
in the west, and frequent flashes of lightning were
accompanied by large drops of rain. It was too
dark to proceed, and the threatening storm compelled
us to camp on the hill. We had no grass and no

232 CHOKING DUST — LITTLE GRASS — NO WATER.

water. This continual want of water is the greatest
of all our evils, as it is the source of all. It seldom
happens that we can make sure of water once in
twenty-four hours. And unless this can be done,
the horses suffer so much from thirst, that they
cannot swallow even the small quantity of food they
are able to gather. Our proximity to the river only
tantalises without relieving their sufferings. The
depth of the strange chasm, through which it flows,
entirely shuts out all intrusion of four-footed beasts,
and in very I'ew places is it accessible to man without
endangering either life or limb. The weak and
feverish state of the animals increases their thirst,
and the fine flowing dust, which everywhere covers
the ground, and rises in clouds as we travel, fills their
mouths and nostrils till they can hardly breathe.
Distance, thirty-eight miles.

I5fh. — Up with the sun. Julius could not find
his horses, William had also to look for his. Finally
they discovered their animals, but lost each other,
themselves, and the camp. All this I observed from
a lofty eminence, but was a long way ofi^, and could
not, for the colour of the rock, make myself visible to
them. Not wishing to waste time, I took the mules,
and had driven seven or eight miles before they

WATER ACCESSIBLE AT LAST. 233

caught me up. At the first break in the cpiion we
descended to the water. Before we got to it, I had
a narrow escape from reaching it in rather a prema-
ture manner. Little Strawberry, whom I was riding,
being in a desperate hurry to get down, took it into
his head that the shortest way would be to avoid the
regular path, and take a line of his own over the
precipice. I, of course objected to this, and struggled
to make him follow the leaders ; but a mule is more
fond of his own way than of any body else's, and he
plunged about till he was within a foot or two of the
edge. In another minute nothing would have saved
us, when fortunately the girths of my saddle gave
•way, and I rolled on the ground. The bridle was in
my hands, and making a picket pin of myself, I held
on till Juliufs came to my assistance. After quenching
my thirst, we followed as we had done yesterday,
rather than return to the road ; but we found the
path worse than we anticipated. It skirted a steep
slope of loose sand, which was continually giving
way under our horses' feet. Notwithstanding this,
the march was a pleasant one. The river was full
of small rapids, and deep pools, and salmon of all
sizes were rising in great numbers. On arriving at
a small patch of willow brush, we agreed to stop the

234 ANGLING BY THE WAY.

remainder of the day, and try our luck at fishing.
Close at hand were some deserted Indian wigwams.
Taking the longest and thinnest of the lodge poles
from these, we supplied ourselves with primitive but
serviceable rods. The parson, who was quite the
sportsman of the party, produced his reels, and a
bookfull of flies ; and in the course of an hour or
two we were wading up to our waists, flogging,
splashing, and flicking off the flies, but catching no
fish, and never indeed getting a single rise.

While we were enjoying ourselves in this manner,
I asked William to give me a sketch of his life. It
had neither been remarkably eventful, nor remark-
ably common-place ; but as it is, no doubt, a very
fair specimen of the biography of hundreds of his
class in this country, I will endeavour to tell it as he
related it to me, substituting only a familiar English
phraseology, for a less intelligible Yankee one.

CHAPTER VII.

William's Story. — Salmon Spearing. — Snake River. — Disastrous Crossing. —
Danger. — Death. — Marvellous Escape. — Pas Scul, with chorus of Wolves
obligate. — Novel mode of wearing one's Shirt. — Indian Village. — Extempore
Canoe. — Recross Snake River. — Find Indians. — "Seized of my Gofda and
Chattels." —Resume Possession thereof. — " A Trifling Misiake corrected." —
Loss of my last Pistol. — Hot Springs. — Boisee River. — Traffic. — Monetary
Value of Percussion-caps. — Seductions of Broiled Salmon. — Arrival at Fort
Boisee. — A Samaritan in the Desert. — Mr. Craigie.

WILLIAM'S STORY.

I WAS born at Maumee, or Miami, as some call it,
in the State of Ohio. I think it is about forty years
ago, but I can't remember rightly, for I never knew
the date of my birth. My fathf.r was a timberer, and
gained his livelihood by bringi ig rafts of timber down
the river, ft-om below Fort Wayne, to Maumee. When
I was old enough to assist him in chopping, he took
me with him. Four times in one spring we made the
trip together. I liked the occupation better than
stopping a' home, for when we got up to where my
father used to chop, I was always sent into the wood

236 William's story.

with his rifle to hunt for game. Sometimes I brought
home half a dozen squirrels, sometimes a turkey, and
now and then I was fortunate enough to kill a deer.
I became a good shot, and as fond of my father's big
rifle as he was of me.

The last time we brought the raft doA\Ti my father
fell ill on the passage. After he sold the timber, he
took to his bed, and, though my mother — good soul !
did all a \vife could do, the old man died, leaving
her, however, money enough to buy a small farm, and
me the rifle, a score or two of traps, and his blessing.
All that summer I felt the loss of my father, and,
being without occupation, got into idle habits, by
making the acquaintance of all the idle boys in the
village. My mother used to take me to task for being
so seldom at home. She said I ought to get employed
somewhere near, so that I could be kept out of
mischief in the day time, and be glad of a supper and
a bed at night. She also said that her neighbour had
spread a report that I was com-ting the daughter of
an English family that had lately emigrated to this
country. She hoped it was not true, for she was sure
I meant no good ; and if a son of hers was to be the
ruin of honest people, she wished she had never given
birth to such a bad boy. Such lectures as these,

William's story. 287

which were liberally bestowed upon me, made my
home of all places the most disagreeable.

When I look back upon that time of my life, I see
in the constant anxiety of my mother the real affection
she entertained towards me. I remember how she
used to cry when I got into any serious scrape, and
how she would listen for hours to the tales 1 told of
hunting bears below Fort Wayne. But still she
scolded me for keeping bad company, and still she
talked bitterly of English Mary; and for these reasons
I believed that she disliked me, and I resolved in my
heart to wait till winter was over, and start with
spring to seek my fortune elsewhere. I watched with
impatience the breaking up of the ice, and, when the
time arrived for my departure, I had no regret in
leaving Maumee, except in the strong attachment I
had formed for English Mary.

Amongst the number of my acquaintances was one
Jefferson Blurt on. He was six or eight years my
senior, and had already made several trips as a
timberer on the Wabash river. To him I had con-
fided my intention of making hunting my calling.
He w^as a clever fellow in his way, and had always
shown me great kindness from the commencement of
oiu: intimacy. On this occasion he applauded my

238 WILLIAM'8 story.

resolution, and, naming a day, said he should start for
the Wabash, and would take me with him. It was
finally agreed that, if I proved a successful hunter,
we should bring the skins down with the raft, and,
by becoming partners in our different speculations,
share the profits of the trip at the first place where
we could sell our articles. Sunday was the day fixed
for leaving. I remember the fact of its being Sunday;
for, while my mother was at church, I went home,
made a small bundle of my clothes, slung my traps
across the old rifle, put four dollars in my pocket,
and joined Blurton outside the village.

Four days' tramping brought us to the head waters
of the Wabash. We had followed an old trail,
known to Blurton, till we struck the river ; here we
squatted, — Blurton to commence a clearing, I to find
meat for us both and skins for the trade. It was a
pleasant life we spent up in that wild place. " Jeff'
Blurton could chop a cord as quick as the next
man, and the old rifle didn't use to crack twice at a
squirrel's head in those times. Once I come nigh
a fixing myself to all etarnity on the banks of that
blessed river. I kep a lot of traps in a swamp whar
a heap o' musk rats used fr^^-quent ; it war a high old
place for musk rats, it war, but a 'nation bad place.

William's story. 889

fix it how you would, for getten up the traps, One
day as I was thar, I missed one of the trpps, and
couldn't find it no how. Last I catched sight of it
stickcn out 'an a house. A reglar screamer had
draged it more 'an a rod from whar I set it. Well, I
makes slick for this here screamer, when, quick as
buck-wheat cakes, I slumped through the moss hags
and was up to the waist before I could say, Borsting !"

The first thing as I did was to throw the rifle
crosswise and hold on by that. It was no use
floundering about and wasting lay strength in the
mud, so I thought a little, till I remembered that Jeff"
couldn't be more than a mile, and began to halloo to
him for help. I hallood till I was hoarse, and was
afraid that he hadn't heard me after all ; at last I saw
him looking for me from the banks of the river, and
shouted to him to pull me out. He ran back to his
clearing, fetched a rope, and tugged away till I was
safely landed on hard ground.

About three weeks after this, Jeff" had cut as much
timber as would make a ,'7''.od-sized raft, and I had
collected a tolerable lot of skins, mostly squirrels' and
musk rats'. So, floating the raft, and putting all our
things aboard, we started with the stream. It was
near a fortnight before we reached Clinton, about a

240 William's stouy.

huntlrc'd and fifty miles down the Wubush, and not
far from the mouth of Red River. .left' hud sold his
timber, onee or twice before, to the owner of u saw-
mill at Clinton, and the day after our arrival we went
to the same place. The boss of the mill bought Jeff"8
raft, and introduced me to a friend of his, with whom
I afterwards traded the skins. My friend and I now
had nearly four hun(b'ed dollars between us ; most of
the money was paid in silver, and, as JefF was the
oldest and perhaps the strongest of the two, it was
settled that he should carry it till we got a canoe to
take us up the Wabash. Jeff" agreed, when he sold
his timber, to help to get it into the mill ; so, when I
had got tlu'ough trading skins and given him the
money, we set off" for the raft.

As we were passing through the town, JefF asked
me if I woiddn't liquor. I guessed I would ; and so
we went in at the first bar we came to. Having
an unusual supply of money, we invited several
bystanders to drink with us. The end of all this was
that both of us became slightly intoxicated. Jeff
Blurton, however, would go to the mill, and when we
got there the men were dragging the timber with
mule-teams up from the river. T'.ie mill itself was
situated close to the bank, and the wheel was turned

William's stouy. -iw

by a sluice running through a natural channel, formed
by a K'Jgc of rocks on one side and the main shore on
the other.

VVlien ^h<! boss of tlie mill saw Jeff', he asked him
to help in gettinr, the timber up. Jeff Avent to work
with the logs, but he hadn't been five minutes at it,
when of a sudden a big tree struck him as it was
rolling down the bank, and knocked him headlong
into the sluice. I heard the splas]» and saw some-
thing in ^^'" atcr, but it was only for an instant. He
had sunk with the great weight of dollars he had
about him, and most probably was carried soon after
into the bed of the river by the undcr-cm'rent. At
least, I never set eyes on him again ; and, though we
had the whole sl-iice tm'ued off, Jeff Bhu'ton and
every doUar I had in the world were lost to me
for ever.

This accident was a tenible blow to my brighteni'g
prospects. I remained but a few days in Clinton,
and then retraced my way back to the shores of Lake
Erie, I did not go to Mawmee, for I was ashamed
to return home with nothing to show for my absence,
and in the second place I had made the acquaintance
of a gentleman who lived at Chicago. I had before
thought of trying the northern part of Wisconsin for

242 William's story.

furs, and, as this gentleman proposed that I should
accompany him, I readily accepted, and we went
together.

Soon after I arrived at Chicago, Mr.

informed

me that a person like myself was wanted, to carry the
mail to Millwankie, which was at that time a military
post, many miles distant from Chicago. To per-
form this jom'ney on foot, in a given time, at
all seasons of the year, in the heat of summer cuid the
snows of winter — to travel through the coimtry of a
hostile tribe of Indians, whose language I did not
then understand a word of, was a severe and perilous
undertaking. But I was fond of adventm'C, and could
und.rgo any amount of hardship, so I engaged myself
for the place, and for threo years carried the mail
between Chicago and Millwankie.

Dming these three years of my life I constantly
suffered from severe privations, and more than once
narrowly escaped uith a whole skin and a sc.lp on my
head. I remember on one occasion — it was in the
midille of winter — I had been told by a half-breed
friend of mine that a couple of Indians whom I had
" cow-hided," a month or two before, for stealing some
of my powder, had sworn that they would have my
scalp before the winter was over, and that unless I

William's story. 24;i

took a fresh trail when I left Millwankie this time,
they would lie in ambush for me, and attack me
unawares. I knew that these two Indians would
some day seek an opportunity to revenge the disgrace
of the flogging, and I also knew, if they had made up
their minds to attack me at once, that cither they or I
would " be bound to go under " the first time we met.

I didn't want to kill the poor "creetm-s," so I resolved
to make a slight deviation from my usual road. The
snow lay very deep on the prairie, and it was as much
as I could do to travel twenty miles a day in snow-
shoes. After I had been out about three days, I
found I had made much more westing than I expected,
and was obliged to retmTi a good piece of the way I
had come, on account of a forest which I did not wish
to travel through, and yet coiUd not avoid if I now
struck south for Chicago. It was late when I spread
my blanket for the night, and charging my rifle afresh,
I laid myself down to sleep.

I can't say whether I was awake, or whether I was
dreaming, but I thought I heard a sound like the
creaking of footsteps in the snow. Raising my head
gently from the mail-bag, 1 listened attentively for
several minutes, but hearing nothing I took my rifle
and stood up to look round. I was no sooner on my

ii2

244 William's story.

legs than a dark crouching object caught my eye. In
an mstant whirr came an arrow, and quivered in the
stock of ray rifle with such force that it nearly knocked
the gun from my hand. The white ground showed
me the mark as clear as daylight. I coiddn't exactly
see the light well enough to draw a fair beed, but the
nigger was " thrown in his tracks " as neat as could be.

I did not wait to load again, but ran to the spot
with the empty rifle in my hand. The shot had
struck him " plum " in the chest, and he had ceased
to breathe before I got to him. I recognised the
features of one of the Indians who had stolen my
poAvder, and was surprised that the other thief was
not with him. I guessed, however, that he coiddn't
be very far off", so I kept my eyes open all night.
I saw nothing of him, and in a couple of days I arrived
safely at Chicago.

This trip was the last I made in the capacity of
mail-carrier. I was no longer a fit person to carry
despatches of importance through a country where I
had made enemies of a whole tribe of red-skins.
I was paid off", and for the next two years earned a
living as a trapper on the northrm shores of Lake
Michigan.

Having by this time collected sufficient money to

William's story. 245

buy a small farm, and anxious to see once more my
aged mother, I returned to Mawmee after an absence
of nearly six years. The sight of my native village
made my heart beat when I thought of the many
changes that might have taken place since I left it to
seek my own fortune. Every house was famihar to
my eye, but I hardly met one person that I knew, and
I was unknown to all. The lads and children with
whom I used to play were at their games just the
same as when I was one of them ; they seemed to me
to be the same boys, but their faces were all changed,
and they took no notice of me. Once or twice I
passed a face that reminded me of some one I had
seen before, but the figure was a man's ; the face I
remembered was a boy's. I knocked at my mother's
house ; the door was opened by a blooming girl of
about nineteen. She Avas wonderfully changed. I
never could have thought she would have turned out
so handsome. But the alteration could not deceive
me. I should have known her smile with my eyes
shut. "Is my mother at home, Mary?" said I.
" Your mother ! " she exclaimed. " Is it possible !
Then you are William come back at last."

My mother was dead. She had never heard of me,
and thought I had been dead. She had left the

246 William's story.

house and a small farm to a cousin of mine, to be
given up in case I returned. This cousin had another
farm in Indiana, and the English emigrant, Mary's
father, now occupied it as his tenant. Mary told me
she had had many offers from some of the smartest
yoimg men in MaAvmee, but she knew I should come
back some day, and Avouldn't have married anybody
else if I had staid away six years longer. The
Englishman and I fanued the little property between
us. We had plenty to live comfortably upon, but you
see, sir, I have five children, and there's none of them
old enough, except the biggest boy, to earn anything
for themselves, so I thought I would just have a look
at Oregon and California; and if I find either of them
places where I am likely to do well, I shall return to
the States next spring ; sell my farm at Mawmee, and
take my famUy across the plains.

END OF William's story.

\iSt/i. — Stop all day, and renew our efforts with the
fly, but fail to get a single rise, though the water is
alive with the noblest of the finny tribe. At noon an
Indian appeared on the opposite bank, and in less
than half m\ hour had speared ten large salmon. AV^e
made signs to him, and he swam across to us, with a

ATTEMPT TO FORD SNAKE Rr/ER. 247

fish weighing about 15 lb. This we boiled in the
tea-pot, and found of excellent flavour. In the
evening William and I waded up to our waists, and
caught a number of small fry, but could do nothing
with the large. It seemed impossible to avoid hook-
ing some of them. In whatever direction we turned
our eyes, four or five were leaping at the same instant.

nth. — Start at eleven. Leave the river, and strike
the trail. We suppose that in the last two days we
have made a detour of at least fifteen miles, as the
com'se we now have to steer is entirely different from
the one we have been making. About fom' we
attempted to cross the river, but found it impassable ;
two miles further on it widened considerably, and we
discovered tracks which led us to believe we must
have now reached the proper place to ford. The
parson took the lead ; I followed with the mules, and
William brought up the rear.

At about equal distances from each other and the
main land there were two small islands. The first of
these we reached wjh^.at difficulty. The second was
also gained, but c o packs were wetted, and the
cuiTcnt Avas excecvingly rapid. The space now
remaining to be forded was at least two hundred
yards, and the stream was so strong that I was obliged

2-48 DISASTROUS DECISION.

to turn my mare's head up stream to prevent her
being carried off her legs.

In the meantime Wilham had come close to me, the
water half way up to his saddle, wanting to know if I
meant to cross. The parson was now within thu-ty
yards of the bank, and, as I thought, past all
danger, when, to my siu^rise, his own horse and the
one he was leading disappeared for an instant under
water. I now saw there was a deep channel along
the bank, and by the swimming of the horses judged
the current to be stronger here than in the middle.
The parson, however, landed in safety ; and his tAvo
horses with the mules which foUoAVcd them were also
upon dry land. William, who had been anxiously
watching the events of the last five minutes, informed
me, with a most pitiable countenance, that he could
not swim a stroke, and should certainly go back to
the old road. I told him, if he did so, he would most
undoubtedly starve, for the mules were all crossed
with the provisions, and it would be impossible to
recross them, or supply him with food ; besides, there
was nothing to fear, the little mule had swam with
him through Green River, and could cany him easily
over this, which was not near so broad. At the same
time I cautioned him strongly to give the animal its

STRUGGLING FOR LIFE. 249

head, to hold on by the pummel of the saddle, to take
off his spurs, and, if possible, to keep his long legs out
of the way. He promised to obey my injunction,
upon condition that Julius and I would help him in
case of accidents. I agreed, of com'se, to do so, and
taking off everything but my shu't, pushed on for the
channel.

In a few steps down went my little mare completely
under water. Prepared for this, I slipped from the
saddle, and began to make for the shore ; when,
remembering William, I looked back and saw him
clinging fast to the mule, which was plunghig vigor-
ously to relieve itself of the load. Seeing me turn,
he called for assistance ; I knew the parson could do
nothing for us, so hastened at once towards the
di-oAvning man. By this time, he was forty or fifty
yards below me, and before I could reach him he
separated from the mule, and was vainly endcavom-ing
to keep above water. I do not think he heard me
tell him to put his hands on my shoulders. He
seemed hardly conscious of anything. His long hair
concealed his features, and his arms and hands were
stretched out as if imploring help. I seized him by
the collar, — unfortunately it was with my right hand,
— leaving only my left to stem the torrent. At length

260 PATE OF POOR WILLIAM.

I touched bottom in a shallow spot. The water was
not more than three or fom: feet deep, but I could
not stand against the stream. It was rapidly carrying
me back into the channel. I tried to hold him up —
to keep his head above water — ^but he was a dead
weight without consciousness. His feet touched the
ground, but his legs bent beneath him.

For the first time, it struck me that I could not
save him. He was either dead or dying. If not
dead, how could I leave him ? lie was still in my
hands. His fate seemed to hang on my will. Once
gone from me, he was gone from this world for ever !
Oh, how insignificant I felt ! — how unable to avert the
decrees of Providence even for a moment. My
strength was failing me. The water was nearly up
to my shoulders. I was aware of the effort I should
be obliged to make to save myself. William was
drowned, and I relaxed my hold. He fell like lead
till his back lay on the bottom. I looked through
the clear water and saw the fixed expression of his
familiar face. A few bubbles broke on the smooth
surface, and I floated noiselessly from the hunter's
grave.

My first attemj)ts were to gain the right bank,
where my remaining companion now stood. Finding

DREADFUL SUSPENSE. a51

this impossible, I struck out for the left. It seemed,
however, that I made no progress ; and again I
altered my mind. Whichever way I turned, the
current brought me back to the middle of the stream.
Sickened with the remembrance of poor William's
fate, — exhausted with my repeated struggles, — the
cbowning mule sinking and rising a few yaixls below
me, — darkness rapidly increasing, — I began to despair.
Suffering myself to be carried with the stream, I tried
to release myself from the encumbrance of my flannel
shii't. The endeavour was useless, and the quantity
of water I swallowed made my condition worse than
ever.

I now thought to rest myself by floating on my
back. Agaui I failed, and again I swallowed water
till I was nearly choked. I lost my presence of mind.
I felt that I must sink; — I felt that my horn- was
come ; — I said to myself, " Is not this struggle more
painful than death ? Is life worth it ? Shall I die ? "
— It was but the doubt of an instant. I called on
God to save me, and at that moment I trusted fully
in his mercy. I felt, at least, my confidence restored,
and believed my energies were so. I tm'ued my head
from the bank that I might not see how slowly I
approached it; and, prayuig that my life might be

262 LIFE SPARED.

spared, resolved to swim as long and as quietly as I
was able. Never shall I forget my feelings as I
touched the ground. At that moment 1 was filled
with ne',. iife. The shoal on which I rested Avas still
some distance from the shore : I paused but for an
instant, and plunging in, with a fcAv strokes was
landed on the bank. I staggered, and fell all' 'St
senseless ; but raised myself on my knees, and, with
tears in my eyes, thanked the Almighty for the mercy
he had sho\Mi me.

My strength somewhat recruited, I began to con-
sider how I should cross the river, for I had landed,
after all, on the left bank, nearly a mile from the
fording. My first impulse was to get to the second
island at once, in order that I might only have the
broad and worst part to cross in the morning. I ran
back to the old starting-point, descended to the river,
and commenced wading it. I soon found myself too
weak for the undertaking, and determined to give up
all hopes of joining my friend till the next day.

The light of a fire on the opposite side now showed
me where JuHus had camped. Going to the narrowest
part of the river, I hailed him to say that I was safe.
He ansAvered and congratulated me, assm'ing me that
he had believed 1 was drowned. I learnt from him,

NOCTURNAL VISIT OF WOLVES. Si53

that none of the mules were missing but William's,
and told him that I should make no further attempts
to cross in this fatal spot, but should walk back at
daybreak to a place which I described, where 1
imagined the river would be easier to swim. We
wished each other good night, and I was soon coiled
up in some long grass trying to get warm, and
reflecting on the strange events of the day.

The night was cold, and Avhat with excitement and
want of clothing, I foresaw that I had no chance of
sleep. Every now and then, I jumped up to circulate
my blood, or pull more rashes to keep me warm.
There were a great number of wild rose-bushes about ;
these I tore up to make a covering to my bed.

Towards morning I heard distant cries which
sounded like Indians, but as the noise approached,
I could plainly distinguish the barking of a
pack of wolves. They had got scent of me, and
following my trail, came up in full chorus to within a
few yards of my lair. I looked everywhere for stick
or stone, but it was too dark to find either, so I
danced about, singing and whistling as loud as I
coidd, hoping to keep them at bay till daylight. The
stratagem proved most successfid, for as soon as the
first streaks of dawn appeared, snarling and fighting

'254- NO POOD — lilTTLE RAIMENT.

ill uisappointmcnt, they gave me a farewell howl and
dispersed. This predicairieiit of daiieiiig a pas seul
to an orehcstra of wild beasts, with the fear of tho
river, to whose precipitous bank I was gradually
retreating, reminds me of a passage in King Lear : —

" Wheio tho greater malady is fix'il,
Tho loasei Ih scarce felt. Thoud'st shun a bear ;
But if thy Uight lay towoi-Ja tlio raging Hca,
Thou'dat moot tho boar i' tho mouth."

I hardly know which alternative in my case was the
more uninviting.

18M. — Rejoiced at the termination of one of the
most disagreeable nights I remember to have ever
passed. I shouted to the parson and told him to
take my horse up the river, following the bank, that
he might sec where I hitended to cross. I suggested
also, that I was in want of both food and raiment,
and that my blanket and a slice of ham would
be most acceptable luxuries. When I had given
my instructions, and seen the horses start, I
set off as fast as the soreness of my feet, and the
hardness of the ground allowed. But the path was
full of sliai'p stones and prickly pears, and I was
unable to proceed.

At this important crisis, I happened to reflect that

SANDAL AIAKINO. 255

personal appenraiicc vva'i no very great object, and
without violation of decency, I might safely convert
the ornamental part of my garments into the useful.
The idea once entertained was soon carried into effect.
I divested myself of my shirt, and tearing it into
strij)es, tied them as sandals round my feet, in a
manner whicli effectually preserved them from all
further molestation of the flints. Thus fortified, I
trotted away at a brisk pace till a couple of hom's
brought me to the appointed spot. Alas ! the parson
was nowhere to be seen. The river looked very deep
the whole way across, the cm-rent was stronger than I
thought, and the width little less than below. At
any other time I coiUd have swam twice tlic distance,
but the thoughts of yesterday unnerved me ; I felt
unwilling to risk my life, when, if I was droAvned, no
one would witness or know my fate. I do not think
I am more of a coward than the generality. But I
o^vn, on this occasion, J. thought it would be a great
satisfaction to all parties concerned, if somebody could
be present while I was drowned; that is, if I was
doomed to be fhwvncd. There w^as something so
remarkably solitary about the spot, and such a pecu-
liarly lonely idea connected with the prospects of an
untimely end in such a place, that I was really obliged

256

FIND AN INDIAN GUIDE.

to sit upon a stone and give all the pros and cons
their due amount of consideration before I vcntui'ed
to decide what coiu'se to pm-suc.

After waiting some time in an unenviable state of
indecision, I concluded that Julius had gone further
up the river, and I walked in that direction for the
chance of seeing him. I had uot gone far before I
came suddenly upon an aged Indian engaged in
spearing salmon. He was astonirihed at the unex-
pected vision, and might have taken me for an Albino
of his own race. I greeted him mth. a respectful
salute, and explained as well as I could by signs, the
difficulty I was in. I di'cw the figure of r, man and
horse upoji the sand, then pohited to the bottom of
the river, and made him understand how they were
di-owned. I too had tried to cross, but was a poor
SAvimmer ; if he could take me over to my camp in a
canoe he sijould be rewarded with a handsome
present. He listened attentively, and signifying that
I was to follow, led the way in the du-ection whence he
had come.

We had walked nearly six miles, when my guide
stopped at a small thicket of willoAv brush growing
close to the water-side. Some half dozen savages
collected t'^gether, gathered round the old man, and

AN INDIAN VILLAGE. 257

with inquisitive glances at me, liegan to question liiui,
and in turii listened to his description of my mi'^^or-
tunes. While these Mere holding a consultation
several others joined them from out of the willows,
and I observed a band of children hiding behind the
bushes, evidently too nuicli afraid to come into the
open space. They all stared as if they had never seen
a white man biifore. I will answer for it they never
had, at least, in the same unfortunate [)light as myself.
As they gained coiu-age, they increased also in imperti-
nence. The feminine portion of the population more
particularly buzzed and giggled as if there had been
something positively ludicrous in the facf, of convert-
ing a shirt into a pair of stockings. The more they
were anuised the moi-e I was annoyed. I remonstrated
against this unkind behaviour, and begged to be
shown to my canoe without further delay. Observing
my trouble, they led me through the willows, and
offered me some dried tish to eat.

The interior of the thicket was a regular \illage,
containing a large number of families. The tops of
the bushes, woven together, supplied the place of
roofs, and a dog's skin, spread upon the ground,
completed the furniture of their primitive dwellings.
The old man birl me be seated, and refresh mvsclf, while

••nj

'^'

'llu

258 RECROSS SNAKE RIVER.

lie prepared a raft ; canoe thev had none,
structure was a simple one. Three large bundles of
rushes, such as ai'c used for chau-bottonis, were lashed
together, and stakes poked through 'o secure them.
A tow-line was made fast ; the raft was launched, and
I was invited to embark. A young Indian took his
place by my side, with a long pole in his hand, to
steer our fi-ail bark. Three others swam behhid to
push, and the old man, taking the tow-rope between
his teeth, tugged away with a vigour that astonished
me. All the time we were crossing, the young men
were shoutii/g, diving, and playing tricks, with as
much ease and delight as if water had been their
natural element. I rather wished at the time that it
had been mine, for the top of the raft Avas already
half a foot beneath the surface of the water, and the
tricks of my amphibious friends threatened very soon
to send it to the bottom.

T>anded in safety, I started, accompanied by all
my watermen, in the direction of my camp. \Mi( ii
I reached it, after a long and tedious walk, the par.<ion
was .still absent ; but, to my surpri.se, in iiis ])liice
were at least a d(j7,en Indians. 1 fully (>xj)ected that
they had stolen all onr valuables, which had hcvu

laid out to drv after their yesterdav's soakina-. ll

HESTITUTION — REWARD. 259

was possible they might be liostilely disposed ; if so,
1 hud better have ackiiowdedgcd the law of possession
at once. However, 1 tlionght, 1 can try a stroke of
dij)l(nnaey, Avhieh will soon decide this question.

The Indians with me expected to be rewarded, but
the Indians against me had possession of the rewards.
Now if I took my things from tlu^ j)resent possessors
to appi'>/^>riate them to n)yself, they might knock me
on the liead for my trouble : but if I borrowed from
my enemies to give to their friends, they j)erhaps
miglit not object to part with their ])lnnder. If, on
the other hand, they did object, 1 could set on my
frieiids to help tlieinselves, and so get rid of them all
on the ])riiiciple uf (he l)atth' of the Kilkenny cats.

Poor William's clothes Avere the first objects that

attracted my eye. Quietly divesting the j)resent

wearer of some three or four of his shirts, J made

them over to the old man whom I had first met.

Either a respect for his years, or a proper sense of

my justice, silenced all connnents on my hehaviom* ;

and, taking advantage of their ready submission,

1 repeated the operation of skinning all the interlopers,

and bestowing their spoils upon more worthy objects

of my hospitality.

Having freed them from the burden of all the

B 2

260 PREPARE TO RESUME OUR JOURNEY.

valueless property, besides any itleas they might have
entertained concerning their rights to the same, I
hunted up my rifle, ana loaded it mth all the haste
I thought it prudent to evince. With such n friend
1 was a match for the whole party ; and shoAving the
effrontery of conscious superiority, I requested them
one and all, in the civilest manner, to retire to a
respectful distance, while I arranged my toilet, and
restored the camp to order.

Late in the evening the parson returned. He had
hunted for me fifteen or twenty miles along the river,
and had at first given me up in despair. His pre-
sence relieved me of all anxiety about the Indians,
who began to move ofi^, as their chance of I'utering
the camp v>'as less than ever. Julius, good-naturedly,
made me some tea, and before turning in, we packed
up the remains of our luggage, preparatory lo making
an early start in the morning.

Never was I more worthy of a blank.. '. ^han this
night. The sun had scorched me all over, and my
feet were blistei'cd and sore with tlie Httle tliorns of
the prickly ])ear. Till midnight I slept like a top,
when a disturbance amongst the animals, which we
had pick(et(Hl dose to us, caught my ear, [)r(>pared by
habit for the :.lightest alarm, and made me jump u|)

TAKK THE KOAU.

261

tO|),

to see what was the matter. I was hardly on my legs
before the horses and mules rushed past the camp at
full speed. Calling to Julius that the animals were
stampedoed, we seized our pistols and started in
pursuit. By guessing at the direction they would
take, we managed to get ahead of them. They
stopped, and no Indians were to be seen. We were
tryhig to account for their sudden alarm, when we
observed a wolf skulking away from us. This appa-
rition at once accounted for the whole disturbance, for
which he would have paid the penalty, but being on
tiic qui cice, as well as oiu'selves, contrived to make
himself scarce before we could get a shot. When 1
got back I missed my pistol ; I retm'ned to look for it
but it was lost. It was the last small-arm that I had,
and was moreover the present of a friend.

19///. — We were much troubled by the mules and
horses, in consequence of the millions of little sand-
flies which bit and teased them. The Indians also,
our friends of yesterday, bothered us the whole ti?ue
we were putting the packs on, till I thought we never
should get away from this ill-fated spot. For some
distance the road was hilly and very stony, and we
fully made up our minds to meet with the usual
scantiness of water and grass ; at noon, however, the

"vl

i-,i
M

263

ARRIVE AT GRASS AND SPRTNO'.VATEH.

prospect brightened, and we readied a country that
promised an abundance of both. One stream Ave
forded three th.ies in less than as many hundred
yards. The grass was up to the horses' behies, and
it was with difficnhy we were able to keep the trail.
Just before dark we reached a rocky plateau, out of
which were bubbling three beautifully clear springs.

Here we threw oft' the packs, and stooped down to
refresh ourselves in the sparkling waters, when, to our
disa{)pointment, we fouiul them to be at nearly boiling
heat ; the ranles scahled their noses in several fruitless
attem[)ts to (pionch their thirst, and at last Avandered
doAvn the stream, with an histinctive hope that the
farther fiom the fountain the cooler Avould be the
water. We found the Avater, Avhen at a drinkable
temperatm'c, Avas free from any unj)leasant taste ; a
slight smell of sulphur issued from the steam, but its
flavour was not })erceptible in the tea, nor did it
spoil the half of an excellent salmon, Avhich aat boiled
m it for our supper. This fish the IncUans had
captured in the morning, Avhile floimdering in shallow
water close to our camp. It Aveighed nearly thirty-
five pounds, and was not by any means in its best
condition. Distance, twenty-one miles.

20M. — Juhus went to hunt up the horses, Avhile I

INDIANS AID US TO PACK. 263

lit the fire and prepared our moriiing meal. lie liad
been absent nearly two honrs, and I began to fear the
Indians had at last taken advantage of our incautions-
ness. At length he appeared, tugging tlie five mules
and four horses, with the lariats over his shoulders,
like Gullivci- with the Lilliputian fleet; I conld not
help laughing at the struggles he made to advance,
and at the obstinacy of the nudes in hanging back.

Towards mid-day we rested on a pretty stream,
shaded by thorn-bushes and willows. In tlie evening
we left the high rocky hills, at the base of which we
have been travelling for the last two days, and opened
upon a dry and undulating country. In the hollows
tuft grass was always to be found, but every water-
course was without water. Unable to find a stream,
we unpacked and pickettid the horses aboui nine.
Distance, twenty-four miles.

2U-/. — At starting, three antelopes paid us a visit,
I gave them a random shot, but they were out of reach ;
they are the only game we have met with for m*
hundred miles. From the sunnnit of a high hill we
saw a party of Indians ecjuipped for a lumting excur-
sion ; some of them rode up to us, and helped to pack
one of the mules. At the bottom of a deep ravine we
stopped to cut kinnek kinnek, which grew in large

264 SUMrTKtt MULK LOST AND FOUND.

bushes upon the edge of a nmddv stream. When we
were ready to ri^ on, tlie black mule had separated
from her compauions and could not be found.

After lumtin"t for her in every direction, we were
forced to give up the search until we had unpacked
and seciu'cd all the others. I then took a horse,
Toby, belonging to Julius, and rode back to the place
we left this morning. I knew the print of every
animal's foot in the herd, but could not distinguish
the lost one's anywhere. If she was lost, our pro-
visions and blankets Avere gone with her. The mule
we could ill spare. To lose her pack would, indeed,
be serious. Coming back I kept a bright look-out,
but this I liao done as I went, and had no reason to
expect better success now. Suddenly, when looking
over the brow of a hill my eye was attracted by two
little black points, like the tips of a pair of long ears ;
there could be no mistake about it, the mule was there.
It was a wonderful piece of good fortune finding her
again ; five yards further I should have been too low
to have seen her, and the nuile, blankets, and pro-
visions, would have become the prey of wolves, or
Indians, whichever happened to fall in with her first.
I drove her bark as fast as I could gallop ; and
thinking ourselves the luckiest fellows in the world,

HALT ON BOISI^E KIVEli. 266

we were consoled for the loss of the clay, by cooking
ill the ashes of our fire some of the recaptured floiu'.
Distancf;, sc>^en miles.

22;/r/. — The night was wet and hot ; the morning
cold and showery. The road was vciry hilly, but we
made about five miles an hour, and halted at half-past
two, u})on the Bois^e river. Like all other rivers in this
country, it was completely walled in by a deep canon.
Some distance below its outlet from the mountains,
the cafiou widens into a fine rich vallev, but the
surrounding region still presei"ves its sterile character;
that is to say, the table-land is abruptly separated
from the valley by a sudden fall of forty or fifty feet
in the level. After escaping from the canon, the
banks of the Boisee are thickly wooded with willo\ ",
quaking aspen, alder, wild cherry, and cotton wood.
The afternoon turned out wet; the rain of the last
twenty-four hours is the first we have had for five
weeks. We are afraid that the rainy season will soon
begin. When we left the States we were used to
being wet through, but the long succession of dry
weather has spoilt us for the minor pleasures of wet
blankets and water-beds. We camped nearly two
miles off" the trail, close to the river's edge ; the grass
was four feet high and very thick. The advantages

I
*■•

if'

2(5(5 FIFTY JIILKS FROM FORI H0IS1-1e.

of tills place to the horses conipeiisiitcd for the dis-
comfort to us of being Avith(jiit wood, and althoup;h I
went to bed cold and without supper, I felt better
pleased than if the disposition of circumstances had
been the other way. Distance, thirty miles.

2Srd. — A sliai-p frost made our blankets stiff with
ice, and until the sun came out the frozen pack-ropes
cut my hands, already sore, and caused them to bleed
in several })laces. The severe cold at night docs more
harm to the horses than to us. Gij)sey's shoulder is
as big as a butlalo's hump, Rebecca's back is perfectly
raw, the chestnut is slow and worn out. Our
spurs are hardly of any use, yet the horses would be
useless without them. All the time we an,' riding
we stick our armed heels into the horses' ribs, as a
man hel|)s a jaded hunter over his last fences.
Poor brutes, they groan at every kick, but trot they
cannot. After all we shall have a hard job to reach
Fort Bois^e, which cannot be more than fifty miles
distant.

Halted close to some Indian huts. The men were
absent ; the squaws were dressing fish and hanging
them on poles susp( nded in front of the lodges, to
dry. On(! old woman was watching the progress of
a broiling salmon, turning it from time to time upon

BAKTKK. 207

u forked stick, which stretched it before the fire. As
the nicely crimped fish siinniered and browned with
the steady heat, my hps watered at th(.' sight, and I
was strongly tempted to break a fast of tiiirty liours,
l)y seizing vi vl annii the dehcute morsel 1 had no
means of paying for. On consideration, however, of
the nnnrotected state of the females, and the certain
knowledge that they wonld get a pole-hiding from
their hnsbands, shoidd these retm'n and find no
dimier, 1 resisted the temptation Avith a sigh : virtue
was its own reward ; on putting my hands in my
p(K'kets my fingers came in contact with a quantity of
percussion caps. Taking them out as if I liad at last
made uj) my mind to part with an invaluable treasure,
I selected, in the attentive presence of the squaws,
five of the brightest ; they were all damaged, and of
as little service to me as to them ; and pointing to the
salmon held out the golden looking ornaments. The
efit'ct, of course, was electric, the old woman flou-
rished about the sahnon, too delighted to exchange,
with the fork and all iifto ihe bargain. A more
sagacious bystander wanted more caps before slie
parted vAih. the fish, but this I strenuously objected
to, more indeed for their sakes than mine, for however
little dearer the fish would have been to me. caps

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

l/j

^(3

1.0

I.I

■ 50 "^

1^ III 2.0

1.8

- 6"

11.25 11.4 111.6

Photographic

Sdences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. M5B0

(716) 872-4503

*5*

268 TRAVELLING TWO MILES AN HOUR.

would evidently become cheaper with them, lii fact,
the sole merit of the bargain existed in the delusive
supposition with regard to the intrinsic worth of
copper caps. The parson was mightily pleased with
the barter, and we both agreed upon expenraent that
although the salmon might be cheap, it was anything
but nasty.

In the evening we forded the river, not without
some trepidation, for the current was very strong,
and took little Strawberry, who is again packed on
account of Reij?cca, off his legs. We both thought
of Snake River, as the mule was carried down the
stream ; but we did not refer to the subject, for the
remembrance of poor William's death is so disagree-
able, that by mutual consent we never mention his
name. On the north side of the river we observed
signs of Indians, but could not tell in what direction
they were, so we chose a very secluded nook between
a hill and the river for our night's lodging. Distance,
twenty-three miles.

^Mh. — It began to rain at two in the morning and
continued pouring till eleven. All this time we sat
shivering round a fire we cou^ld hardly keep alight
for the wet. At noon it cleared and we started,
whipping and spurring, but never exceeding two

F(»UT BOIS^E REACHED. 269

mil^s an hour. About sunset we thought we saw
smoke a-head of us. What could it be ? an Indian
camp perhaps. Soon we passed a herd of tame cattle ;
this was a sign that the fort could not be far oif,
twenty or thirty miles perhaps. If we were lucky we
might reach it the day after to-morrow. Wliat an
inspiring prospect, only one day's march to Fort
Bois^e. Once there we shall consider our journey
ended. Three hmidred and fifty miles will be a mere
nothing when there is nothing behind it. And oh !
what a blessing when this nothing is accomphshed.
One's impatience increases as the length of the joiu-ney
diminishes.

Passed more cattle and fresh tracks of horses, saw
more smoke, then a light, then several other lights,
and then Indian lodges, and at last a square built
house, a fort. As we rode up a white man was
catching some horses in a corral. " Pray, sir," said
I, " is this Fort Bois6e ?" " Yes." " Thank God for
that," I an wered. The gentleman then informed me
that his name was Craigie, that he was the master
of the Fort, and the only white man in the place.
" Fred," he said, " was here, and intended to start in
the morning ; he had lost a man and a miUe, both
drowned in Snake River." Strange coincidence ! Wlio

270 PASS THE NIGHT AT PORT BOIS]^E.

was the man ? INIr. Craigie did not know. " Was
my name Coke?" It was. He expected and was
glad to see ns. I asked about Fred's horses ; they
were in a terrible condition, and there was not a horse
or mule to be had at any price. We accepted Mr.
Craigie's invitation to pass the night mider his roof,
and hired an Indian for a blanket to watch and herd
oiu- animals till the morning.

Mrs. Craigie, a Panack squaw, cooked some of our
own ham and floiu*. Milk and salmon was all their
hospitality could afford. The milk at all events was
a luxury, and under the circumstances we could have
enjoyed anything, even if our host had not done his
best to make us comfortable. Mr. Craigie is a Scotch-
man by birth ; he came out to this country as a
common laboiu-er, served for some years in that
capacity to the Hudson's Bay Company, and by his
integrity and good conduct obtained the post he now
holds. In a pecuniary point of view the preferment
is worth very little. As to the honoiu- and glory, to
any one short of a hero they would be imaginary
enjoyments. He is banished from all intercourse with
his own species, and what is worse, is surrounded by
a number of the most rascally tribe of Indians. The
comforts of life are easily dispensed with by a moun-

LIFE AT PORT BOIS^E. 271

taineer, but Craigie's situation denies him its common
necessaries. Tlie house he Uves in was built by his
own hands, and the river which runs by his door
suppHes him with sahnon, the only food he subsists
on. Flour he seldom procures, and all attempts to
raise vegetables have been frustrated by the mischief
of the Red Men. How a human being can continue
to exist in this a oluntary state of exile, I know not.
Give me Botany Bay and a grey-coated companion in
my miseries, and I woidd not change places with
Mr. Craigie.

One consolation this worthy man may find in his
present condition, is that of doing good. Since the
days of emigration Fort Bois^e has been an asylum to
the sick and needy, and its master has always fulfilled
the part of the Good Samaritan. ATany are the
instances of his charitable deeds, and nany are the
travellers on these plains who survive to pray for
blessings on this disinterested and generous being, to
whom they owe their preservation. At the present
time Mr. Craigie has one emigrant under his roof, who
but for the hospitality of Fort Boisde, must have
perished on the road. This man is suffering from the
effects of a gunshot wound. His rifle exploded
accidentally, while he was in the act of cleaning it.

27^ "GO THOU AND DO LIKEWISE."

The ball passed through the shoulder, t'ractui'ing the
bone, and cutting the principid muscles of the aim ;
the wiping-stick was also diiven through the flesh ;
parts of it were extracted from the back of the neck ;
parts still remain in, and occasionally force their way
through the skin in splinters. The wounds appear
very much lacerated, and the whole arm is in a
terrible state of inflammation. Twice a-day does
Craigie wash and bandage these wounds, performing
with assiduity the double office of nurse and surgeon.
The patient is a Swiss. He came out to work at
the mines. He is destitute of means, and his
accident, if he survives it, will prevent him from
earning a living in this country. All therefore that
Craigie does for him is from disinterested motives
and kindness of heart, animated by a sense of
Christian duty.

When I retired to my blankets, spread, the first
time for many weeks, in a comfortable room, I could
not help reflecting upon the multitudes of poor
wretches who had suffered on these plains ; some from
disease, some from accidents, like this man's ; some
from starvation, some from the Indians, &c. &c. So
far I have arrived safe. I was never in better health
in my life, and I have escaped from every mishap. I

KKPLEUTIONS. 273

woiild wish for more adventures, but to do so would
be ingratitude to Providence. If I complete the rest
of the journey us successfidly as I have accomplished
this part of it, I shall feel thankful.

ii«

CHAPTER VITT.

Journey Resumed. — The Shothoiic Tribe. — Mallieur River, Night Thoughts —
Toby "gives on'.."— Snlnioii Shooting. — Dlessings of Sunday. — Provisions
become scarce. — Another clinrus of Wolves. — Aurora Horcalis. — f Srand
Rond, — Different species of Fir. — Lose our sole remaining tobacco-pipe. —
Kaqua Vocabulary. — Another Emigrant Train. — London Fog, — The
Columbia. — Proceed on Foot. — Henry Clarke joins us. — Norfolk Dumplings.
— The Quenelles. — Shadow"gives out."— More Emigrants. — Indian Exquisite.
— John Day's River.— Narrow Escape. — Tecbuty River. — Sowcte Sonp. —
Ford the Techuty.- -The Dalles at last.

Soptemhor 25///. — Called Craigic at daylight, and
rowed across to Fred, who had come down the south
side of the river, and Avas encamped for safety on a
small island. Fred gave me an account of poor
Nelson's death. He was drouTied in attempting to
save a mule that had got out of its depth while drink-
ing. It was singular that accidents so similar should
have happened to both of us.

We all breakfasted together at Craigie's, after which
Fred left us to continue his journey. Before starting
he cautioned me to be more careful of my horses.
Twice had his own been stolen by the Indians,

J>K<JRNKI{ACY OF THK INDIANS. 275

iiotwithstniuliiig lie kept a strict watdi, and liad liis
horses picketed every iiiglit. What Craigii; tells me
of tliese Indians contirnis the worst accounts I liave
heard about them. Of all the Indian tribes the
Shothouc, or Snaki^ Tribe, is probably the most
numerous. It formerly occupied the whole of that
vast territory lying betwi^en the Rocky and the Blue
Mountains, and extending northward to the lower fork
of the Columbia, and to the south as far as the basin
of the Great Salt Lake. Formerly the Shothoucs
Avere as powerful as they wei'e numerous : but the
inroads of the Crows, the Blackfeet, and the darhig
tribes from the eastern side of the Rocky ]Mountains ;
the immigration of the white men through their country
to the mines of California, and to the supposed riches
of Oregon ; the disappearance of the buffalo, once
innumerable in the rich vallevs of Bear River and the

r-^lerado, have all combined to degenerate the nation.
War and the chase have been relinquished for the less
manly pm-suits of fishing and pilfering. Roots and
other spontaneous productions of the soil axe sub-
stituted for buffalo meat, and in the winter time their
means of sustenance are so precarious that the people
are often compelled to eat their own children, in order
to avoid starvation.

276 CHANGE HOUSES.

The men are dimiimtive in stature, and both sr xi!8
are remarkably coarse-featured ; and, generally speak-
ing, the Snake Indians are much afflicted with
consumption. This disease is probably caused by
exposure, and the necessity of being constantly in the
water during those months in which the salmon are
taken. The cholera, and other epidemics, disseminated
by the whites, have also made their ravages amongst
this, in common with nearly all the othery North
American tribes ; and, degenerated as they now are,
the time cannot be far distant when the red skin will
be as scarce as the buffalo on which he subsisted.

I was sur[)rised to find that of all the families
camped about the Fort there was not one that had a
horse for sale. I told Craigie that I could not possibly
get on unless I had a fresh horse of some kind, and I
gave him little Gypsy and the chestnut to make any
bargain he could for me. After a deal of bantering
and bothering, he managed to persuade one old fellow
to take my two for a large black mare, which he had
most probably stolen from the emigrants. The bargaii;
was a good one for both of us ; though, if it had not
been for poor little Gypsy's sore shoulder, I would not
have parted with lier for all the horses in the country.
In the afternoon I bade farewell to Mr. Craigie and the

LEAVE PORT BOIS^ AND SNAKE RIVER. 277

little mare, and, taking our baggage, I crossed to the
island in a canoe. The animals, in charge of an
Indian, swam the river and reached camp in safety. As
the evening was fine I bathed in the river, and spread
all the things out to dry in the sun.

2G//i. — A party of Indians came to breakfast, and
cooked their fish at our tire. We made them pay toll
by selecting the choicest morsels of the fish for
ourselves. Their mode of dressing the salmon is
simple and good. They take out all the bones and the
greater part of the flesh ; then stretch the skin on
crossed sticks, and broil it over a slow fire. By this
process the flavom* is presei-ved, and the superfluous
richness got rid of. About nine o'clock we started,
and left Snake River, never, I hope, to see it more.

Still the same wretched country — sage and sand.
Rebecca seemed to think she had had enough of ihis
desert. We had hardly made a couple of miles on
the way, when, without the slightest provocation, she
set off and galloped back, at her very best i^ace, to the
grassy island. Some Inchans were travelling in the
same direction as ourselves. A boy belonging to
their party saved me the troubic of a chase by bring-
ing Rebecca back again ; more than once in the
course of the morning's tramp, this lad did me a good

iJ7H MALIIEUlt klVKU.

turn. Little Blackey as usual, must needs run about
after Rebecca, and kick her [)ack off as fast as we
put it on. Whenever the boy saw that we could not
catch the nudes, he always gave his pony the whip,
and, circuinvciitinj? *hc refractory brutes, fetched them
up in no time.

Amongst the Indian party there were several
squaws. Tiiese have to attend to the pack animals,
while their lords and 'uasters ride on a head to tisli
and hunt. Every time one of our packs Avas kicked
oft', the squaws overtook us, and, to judge from their
laughter, made some excellent jokes amongst themselves
at the expense of our awkwardness, and disasters.
1 nuist confess, I blushed to see myself beaten by
women at packiny, and that too, after all the practice
I have had.

A ride of eighteen miles brought us to Malhcm-
River. Here, on account of the heat, we halted until
nearly sunset. Unfortunately the moon did not rise
till ten o'clock ; so that for more than three hovu's it
was pitch dark, and we had the greatest difficulty to
keep the track, and avoid losing the mules. At one
time I thought Ave should lose both. The wild mule
turned off" the trail and fell down, and we were nearly
an hour in raising her up and repacl'ing her, she

NIOTIT TRAVELLING. 271)

thus hnd plenty of time to feed away out of sight.
Luckily the moon began to rise, and by her light,
wc were soon enabled to whip up the stragglers and
trot on. Travelling at night I have always found
disagreeable. It may be bet! r for the animals, but
it is certainly more tedious for a man. There is
nothing to mark the way or mrncurc the distance by.
If you chance to fall asleep you may wake and find
yourself in a bog, or your liorse feeding. Heaven
knows which side of, or how far from the road. 'JVue,
it is a fine time for romantic reflections ; but really
one has so many opportunities for reflection, that both
the novelty of the employment and one's stock of
idefl.« are much given to wear out. For my part,
when I am in want of a new idea I am forced to
adopt the plan of the midshipman, who when he is
hard up for a clean shirt, bcguis again at the bottom
of his dirty clothes bag. As for castles in the air, 1

build them as fast as Mr. Cubitt does his three-storied

houses in Belgravia, and they are as fragile. I have
laid out plans for the future which, even were I now
but a boy, I should not have half exhausted at the
age of Methuselah. But new ideas, — What have 1 to
do with new idejis ? I must finish this day's work
or 1 shall lose my dinner.

280 POUR HUNDRED MILES YET.

I left off when the moon began to rise, &c. Well,
it is a tedious business, this night travelling ; and this
pai'ticular night's travelling was a particularly tedious
business. Old Brenchly would go to sleep, and old
Toby, his horse, would not go along. Old Brenchly
I did stir up, Ibut old Toby could not be persuaded to
move ; nor whip, nor spur, nor pushing, nor pulling,
had other effect than to make him look very like
" giving out." And give out he did. But who would
have thought it ? — he was a take in — a screw.

Here, then, we were, — ^planted, the first day of a
fresh start! — four hundred miles to travel, and Brenchly
only one horse left ! Certain it was, Toby would
cany him no more, and equally certain that he could
no more carry Toby than he could fly. So then the
saddles were changed and the pncks taken off. Toby
was left to the wolves, and, after a waste of two hours,
on we went again.

But it was a tedious night this : the last star of the
Bear's tail was plump under the Polar constellation,
but still we tramped along, and still no sign of water !
And now there was a range of hills ahead, and now
the road winds through a deep cafion, and the moon
is on the meridian, and all is bright as day : and now
the cafion opens, and we are on n high plateau — and

MALHEUR RIVER. 281

beneath is a broad valley ; and a dark streak, like
willows, lines the bottom, and a bright streak, like
water, mns amongst the dark trees, and we descend ;
and the dusty nostrils of the jaded mules are laved in
the limpid stream, and the wearied travellers seek
soft places on hard rocks, and find sweet repose.

27^/^ — Up soon after sunrise; follow the stream in
search of the cattle ; find Fred on the point of starting.
Our Indian friends of yesterday came up and stopped
to partake of our" dried salmon. One of them assisted
me to cast Rebecca for the pm^ose of washing the
sore on her back, which has already eaten a hole to
the very bone. Made a late start. While we are
repacking, Rebecca, old Pots-and-pans, and Blacky,
who is as troublesome to-day as ever, stray nearly out
of sight. What perverse brutes these mules are ! It
is evident to me they do all they can to torment one,
intentionally. In tryinj^, to drive them back, one
would go this way — the other that ; and if they went
together, it was sure to be in the wrong direction. I
had a mind to dismount, sit down, and have a " good
cry;" but abandoned that plan, reflecting that it
would have been, \mder the circumstances, of little
avail, and, in all probability, a secret cause of exulta-
tion to the mules. If ever 1 do meet a mule after I

282 LOSE THE MULES.

Uave done with them this trip, may I be doomed to
pack him if I don't pull his tail till his nose bleeds.
Eh, the beasts ! How I hate 'em 1

Keep company with the Indians, who are very
pleasant travelling companions. They are a party of
Kayuxes, with four squaws and one Snake. All going
to Wallah -Wallah, on the Columbia. One young
squaw, who really was not bad-looking, made herself
particularly amiable. What with signs, and a few
half-Indian, half-English words, we managed to hold
a very interesting conversation. However, whether it
was that I paid more attention to her than to the
mules, I know not ; but the brutes, I dare say, thought
it would be a fine opportunity ; and on looking for
them among the Indian herd, not one of them was
to be seen. So, much to my sorrow, I had to tear
myself away from my Dulcinea, and ride back for my
four-footed tormentors.

It was dark by the time I had found them and
overtaken Brenchly. We hurried on for some time,
in hopes of catching the Indians ; for we had left the
main track to be guided by them by a short cut ; but
we could neither see nor hear them anywhere ; and in
perfect ignorance what direction to take, we followed
the mules, hoping that they might follow the path if

FIND THE INDIANS AND THE MULES. 283

there was one. Of course, instead of helping us, they
only involved us in farther difficilties. They made
for the nearest stream, and, in their precipitancy,
stuck themselves up to their packs in the mud. This
decided us to wait till the morning. After pulling
and kicking, and getting very wet, we took off the
packs in a sheltered spot, where there was a good
supply of long grass. Rebecca not to be found !

28^/^ — Find mule and Indians in a bend )f the
river close to us. Remain a short time to see the
Indians catch salmon. This they did by means of a
hook fastened to a long pole, and using it as a gaff,
struck the fish as they ran up the shallows.

Follow a stream through a winding valley. High
mountains on both sides of us. Stopped at a pool
and fired eleven shots at salmon. Brenchly also fired
several times, but without killing any fish. Wliilst
we were amusing ourselves with this sport. Master
Toby strays out of sight. The bottom of the valley
was thickly grown with willows and small timber, and
it cost us at least two hours before we were fortunate
enough to find liiiu again. Halt to bait on the hill-
side, at some height above the bottom ; but this was
a useless [)recaution, a? the horses fed down to tl 3
thicket, and the marc which 1 have given to Brenchly

284 PICTURESQUE SCENERY — SUNDAY IN THE DESERT.

was lost for a considerable time. The scenery this
afternoon was unusually pictui-esque. We were coni-
pelled, by the steepness of the hills, to keep on the
banks of the stream, which we were constantly
fording, and even were often obliged to ride in the
water to avoid the fallen trees that obstructed the
path.

At one place where I forded, my mule shied at a
salmon that must have actually passed between its
legs. I should think this fish weighed above 30 lb.
Leaving the stream, which now turned to the south,
we ascended a gully to our right, crossing and
recrossing the rivulet till we reached the low part of
the mountain-ridge. Descending into another valley,
we came to another little stream, and here encamped
for the night. I had intended to make a much longer
march, but it was so dark, and I was so fatigued, that
I was obhged to content myself with eighteen miles
ai d a bed without supper.

29M {Sunday). — Never did I know the blessing of
Sunday till now. I should not mind if there were
half-a-dozen in every week. At all events, one more ;
for the Sunday which is, is by no means a day of rest
to us ; only comparatively speaking is it a sort of
consolation which we try to make the most of.

NO WATER — ASCENDING ALL DAY.

^85

To-day, now, is a very fair specimen of Sundays,
as Sundays go. Sometimes we have more to do —
never do we have less.

30/'//. — Pack by moonlight. Off half-an-hour before
daAvn. Come to a little stream, with soft, muddy
bottom. The mules are tied together. One jumps
— others hang back ; ends in both tumbling into the
ditch. Lose an hour in repacking. Lovely day.
Cool breeze. Good road. Country becomes hilly.
Get fine view of Blue Mountains ahead. Halt at
two. Cook ham with stinking weeds ; and even this
fuel very scarce. No water. Horses and mules both
looking wretchedly. Little Strawberry, too, — the
dearest of mules ! — is getting a sore back. Ah me !
I wish we were on the other side of the Blue Moun-
tains. Pass several dead cattle, and one alive.
Ascending all day. Arrive at a great flat valley,
which we at first suppose to be the Grand Rond.
Decide aftenvards that we cannot have reached that
place yet. Turn about a mile off the road to the
left. Find a small pond of fresh water, and camp in
the dark, having made a very long day. Distance
performed, forty miles.

October \st. — This month, please God, will see us
through. The animals, I am sure, will not survive

286 HILLS COVERED WITH PINE TREES.

another. As for ourselves, we have but few pro-
visions.

The season, too, is getting late ; and if we arc out
much longer, I fear we shall suffer greatly from cold.
Already, a blanket and a buffalo-robe are little enough
covering for the nights. My buffalo-robe, which I
spread over the blanket, is ahvays frozen quite stiff;
and the water in the bucket had this morning a
coating of ice nearly two inches thick.

Eager to push on, we started without breakfast,
and made the most of a level country and good road.
Forded twice a small river ; its banks prettily wooded
and covered with abundance of long grass. Being
too early to stop, we went four or five miles further,
and halted on a narrow watercourse. At the present
time it is dried up. One hole we managed to find
with a small supply of stagnant water in it, with
which we made our tea ; but though very highly
scented, I cannot say that the flavour was particularly
piu-e or the taste remarkably agreeable.

The hills which surround us are thickly covered
with pine-trees — a sight we have not enjoyed for some
time past. About eight, we turned out of the road
to a valley on our right. Here, having found a small
spring of clear water, we halted This was one of

AURORA BOREALIS — NIGHT CHORUS OP WOLVES. 287

the snuggest spots for a camping-ground we had met
with. We were completely shut in by groups of trees,
resembling the black-thorn in shape, and not unlike it
in foliage. The lower boughs were mostly dead and
dry, and afforded us as much good fuel as we needed.
Beneath the shelter of the wide-spreading branches
of one of these trees, we laid our blankets, and heaping
a huge pile of dry wood upon the flames, lighted our
pipes, and turned-in to enjoy that sound sleep which
oiu* hard day's work always insures us.

As I was dozing off", a pack of hungry wolves that
had scented us out set up the most infernal chorus
ever heard. In vain I pulled the blankets over my
head and tried to get to sleep again. The demons
drew nearer and nearer, howling, snarling, fighting,
and moaning together all night; creating a noise
which, in the perfect stilness which reigned around,
was absolutely terrible. For some time I bore it with
patience. At length, jumping up, I screamed out, in
a voice that made the valley ring, " Will you be
quiet ? " The question was immediately answered by
perfect silence; but hearing them tuning up for a second
concert, I made a blazing fire, and once more retired
to my lair. For a few minutes, I lay awake to admire
a briUiant Aurora Borealis shooting (Jut perpendicular

2«8

\RBIVE AT THE GRAND BOND.

streams of light. Then turning over on my side, I
never moved again till day -light. Distance performed,
twenty-five miles.

2nd. — Breakfast, by way of change, and start at
nine. In a short time we arrived at the Grand Rond.
This time we had no doubts concerning the identity
of this remarkable place. It is a basin about fifty or
sixty miles in circumference, situated in, and sur-
rounded by, part of the highest and most picturesque
range of the Blue Mountains. Tliis basin is a perfect
flat, oblong in shape, and extending nearly north and
south. It is intersected by several small streams.
The soil is a rich loam, and but for its isolated
position, the Grand Rond is better capable of sup-
porting a small settlement than almost any tract of
country between the Blue and the Rocky Mountains.

Before we again began to ascend, we were joined
by two Kayuxes. They galloped up to us at full
speed, stared at us with the usual Indian curiosity,
examined oiu" horses, and finding probably that we
had nothing worth stealing, turned back, and
galloped ofi^.

The ascent was so tremendously steep, that we
were nearly two lioiu-s before we reached the sunmiit.
Once on our old level, the view from this side the

MAQNIPICENT PIR TREES — NO FORAGE. 289

valley was very different from that on the other, and
very niiich finer. In front and around us, for many
miles, was one vast undulating sea of pine forest.
Beneath was the beautiful round valley, and behind
stretched the long range of lofty and jagged peaks, a
few of which now shone brilliantly in their caps of
perpetual snow. To us the absence of sage-bushes,
and the sight and smell of the magnificent fir-trees,
form(!d a novelty that we thoroughly appreciated.
The only drawback was the small prospect there
seemed to be of getting grass, or finding water. At
dusk we crossed a broad and shallow stream, running
southward through a deep ravine. There was not a
morsel of forage, but Me did not venture to risk the
chance of having to camp without water as well ; so,
throwing off the packs, we let the animals pick where
they woidd, and we set to work collecting pine-logs
and bark for a fire. Distance performed, twenty-one
miles.

Srd. — ^When we got up, not a house was to be
seen in the clearing by the river side. The wood all
round was as thick as could be, and, owing to the
roughness of the banks, it was impossible for the
animals to follow the river, either up or down the
stream, for more than a quarter of a mile. I almost

290 CURIOUS VARIETIES OF FIIW.

despaired of finding theni; Julius took one direction,
I another. I scrambled through the thicket, and
hunted along the bank for tracks till 1 was almost
tired out. At last, hidden among some bushes, the
fair Rebecca greeted my sight. I rushed to the
capture, thinking to find the whole herd with her;
but, to my disappointment, old Pots-and-pans was
her only companion. They both looked theu" siUkiest
at being found out, and stoutly refused to be driven
back across the river. Rebecca, however, knew me
too well to trifle long ; so, laying her ears flat on her
neck, she gave two or three kicks, and set off for the
camp. When I aiTived there with my two prizes, I
rejoiced to see Julius with the remaining three in tow.
We forthwith packed and departed without breakfast.
The ups and dovMis were very distressing to the
cattle. Two miles was all we coidd make in the
hour ; and, even at this pace, one of us was obliged
to walk behind poor Shadow, with a big stick, to keep
her up with the rest.

In the course of this morning's tramp I have
remarked four distinct kinds of firs ; one resembling
the larch, one the silver-fir, but with leaves finer and
of a lighter colour ; one the Scotch, but with much
longer leaves, and of a lighter green (this is the most

ALL BARREN — PASS TWO GRAVES. 891

common) ; and lastly, the hemlock-fir, which both in
size and beauty surpasses all the rest. Most of these
trees average above a hundred feet in height ; some
of the hemlock species are at least two hundred, and
from three to five feet in diameter. The forest was
80 thick, that we hardly got a glimpse of the sun all
day ; and notwithstanding the incomparable virtues
of my martial coat, the cold wind found its way to
my very bones. In addition to this, an empty
stomach made me long heartily for a good camping
place.

In the evening we arrived at a little muddy stream,
and a small op»ming in the forest. It was a wTetched
place, and perfectly barren. In the middle of the
clearing were two graves. The bodies were not put
under ground, but housed over with logs, as a better
protection against the wolves. Leaving this un-
inviting spot, we filled the kettle and cantine, watered
the animals, and proceeded in hopes of meeting with
better grass.

Before we reached a suitable place, I had the
misfortune to spill nearly all the water from the
kettle, owing entirely to the obstroporous behaviour of
Little Strawberry, who began to be uneasy for the
want of his supper. This was a great loss, as we

o 2

21)2 NIGHT BIVOUAC BY BUKNINO TURE PIKE.

were obliged to bake some bread, and had hardly
sufficient water U^ft for a cup of tea. However, we
were somewhat consoled by a moat glorious fire,
which we lighted in the uptorn roots of a dead pine.
For a few hours the whole tree was in a blaze ; and
by getting as close to it as possible, we contrived to
thaw at least one side at a time.

Yesterday I met with a disaster, which distresses
me exceedingly. I broke my pipe, and am neither
able to repair nor to replace it. Julius has one, tlie
fumes of which we are compelled to share. If this
should go (and it is ab'cady in four pieces, and bound
up like a mummy), I tremble to think of the conse-
quences. In all our troubles the pipe is the one and
only consolation. Distance perfonned, sixteen miles.

4///. — Oh, how cold it was this morning, and how
cold it was in the night ! I could not sleep for the
cold, and yet I dreaded the approach of daylight, and
the tugging at the frozen ropes which it entailed.
But there was no help for it. I might lie in bed till
the sun was up, but must, in consequence, be another
night in the mountains ; and the animals, who suffer
more than we do, could not stand this. So we tied
them close to the still burning log, and, little by little,
with the help of a warm every minute, we got the

BANKS OP TUB UMATILLA UlVEll. g98

packs on. Vimr beasts ! they actuully cringed when

the saddle touched tlie great raws on their backs ; tlie

frost had made them so painful. What woidd I have

given for a mouthful of hot tea or coffee before

starting. But these are luxuries one must not think

of. It seems as if this sort of life were to last for

ever. Day follows day, without the slightest change.

Towards mid-day the forest became less dense, and

the country opened up in large rolling prairies. Far

beneath us was the Umatilla River. We hailed it with

delight, as a sign that we were out of the mountains,

and only forty or fifty miles from the Columbia. We

were no sooner out of the woods than we observed with

astonishment numerous herds of horses grazing on

almost every hill, and in every hollow — ^black, white,

grey, and piebald, all colours ; sometimes as many as

three or four hundred in a herd, and no one to watch

or prevent their being stolen.

About halfway down the mountain were two round
springs. At these we halted and dined. While at
our repast two Indians rode up, and jumping from
their horses, seated themselves at the fire. They told
us they were Kayuses, and begged for something to
eat. This I absolutely refused, showing them at the
same time the small supply we had for oiu-selves.

294 FRIENDLY INDIANS.

In a short time two others rode up. With one of
these we exchanged three sahnon for a rib of beef.
They all remained till we started, and helped us to
drive in the mules. One young man, who was
remarkably intelligent for an Indian, tried his best to
make himself understood. He told me that the
Kayuses were a great and good nation ; that they
never hurt white men, and never stole their horses.
The Shothones, he said, w^ere bad Indians. They were
very deceitful. Their mouths were full of lies, and
they kept theii' hands concealed ; but in a few mere
suns, he said, the Kayuses were going to hunt buffalo,
and then let the Shothones hide themselves. They
would be punirsiied. I asked him if he would barter a
horse for a mule. He said he had plenty of horses, and
did not want the nuile. I told him I had no objection
to receive a horse as a present, since he had so many.
This he pretended not to understand, and shook his
head. I shoAved him some gold, upon which he pulled
out a bagful of five-dollar pieces, saying, " The Kayuses
wxre very rich, and Avanted nothing. They had plenty
of cattle, plenty of com, plenty of potatoes. When
they wanted money, or cloth, or blankets, or paint, they
bartered their horses for these at Wallah- Wallah or
Willamette."

LUXURY OP POTATOES. 295

The following are a few words of the Kayux
language, which I learned from him : —

Ciish, Water. Tacmal, Cap.

Map, Fire, Taitz, Good.

Walfi/, Knife. Capsis, Bad.

Sheekern, Horse. Tooi'k, Pipe.

When we got down to the river our friend, who had
ridden on before, joined us, and led the way to his
lodge, which was completely concealed in a thicket of
willows and tall underwood. The walls were made of
matting, and consequently would not afford much
protection against wet or cold ; the inside, however,
had an air of comfort and cleanliness seldom seen in
an Indian domicile. A pot of potatoes was boiling in
front of the entrance, i would willingly have waited
any length of time to have tasted a vegetable which I
have not seen for months, but the grass was so scant
that the mules might have starved in the meantime.
Leaving Julius, therefore, to make interest for anything
he could get, I took the mules on to a small gulley,
about a couple of miles from the river, and camped.
Distance performed, nineteen miles,

^th. — Had to walk four or five miles before I could
find the animals. Breakfasted on some coffee chat we
had reserved for the cold weather in the Blue Mountains,

296 PASS AN EMIGRANT TRAIN.

but which we never had time to use there. Before
starting I filled my pockets with wild cherries and
little dried pears, which grew in great qiantities along
the gulley.

Ford the river, and leave it to cut off an elbow.
Pass an emigrant train of twelve wagons and about
150 head of cattle. The poor people looked half
starved. They had been restricted to a foiu-th of theii'
proper rations for more than three weeks, and could
not make what remahied last above eight or ten days.
This, they said, would be quite long enough, for the
Indians had told them that the Dalles was only fom-
days ride from the Umatilla. Therefore, the distance
could not be more than eighty or ninety miles. I told
them they had forgotten that Indians often ride fifty
or sixty miles a day, and, according to my calculation,
we were upwards of 140 miles from the military post
at the Dalles. This information seemed to dishearten
them very much, and they begged me, if I arrived
before them, to send out some provisions to meet them.
This I promised to do, and, wishing each other well
through this tedious journey, we parted. At dark I
turned off the road, and, descending a steep corrie,
struck a branch of the river and camped. As usual,
this being Saturday night, I was so tii-ed that 1 went

HAVE YET A HUNDRED AND THIRTY MILES TO GO. 297

to bed without supper. Distance performed, twenty-
five miles.

Qth. — As soon as it was daylight I arose, after a
sleepless night, partly owing to the cold, and partly to
the 8hai*p stones, which, turn as I would, persisted ' i
running into me. Looking round, I saw, to my
sorrow, that the ground was as bare as the stones
which covered it. The mare and Shadow were
standing on the side of the hill, face to face, waiting
patiently to starve. Having looked up a better place
about a mile distant, I drove them down to it.
Strawberry and Toby had already found their way to
the best feed. Rebecca and old Pots-and-pans were
wandering arm-in-arm along the wooded bottom of the
river. These old stagers I left to take care of
themselves, though, poor brutes, they are nearly past
caring for. Rebecca is a perfect skeleton, and the
black mule has quite wasted away all but her shoulder,
which gets bigger and bigger every day. The mare,
I feel sure, won't travel another week, and Shadow
falls down with weakness almost every time we pack.
Little Strawberry is a miracle — a perfect love of a
little mule. But alas ! he too begins to fade. I wish
T coidd tell them all that they have only 130 miles
to go. A hundred and thiity miles ! It seems

298

LOSE REBECCA AND POTS AND PANS.

nothing ; but at fifteen miles a day — and such days —
it is a terrific undertaking. Well, thank God, we can
walk, but I do wish *ve were through !

1th. — Hunted two hours for Rebecca and her
ancient companion, but coiUd find no trace of either.
The wood, indeed, Avas so thick that we might have
hunted for a week with like success, and to lose a day
was now worse than losing two useless animals. As
for the packs, they were easily arranged. To Straw-
berry we gave nearly all the weight, leaving only the
blankets for Shadow to carry. I rode the mare, and
with a parting sigh " to those we left behind us," we
commenced what we hoped would prove the last week
of our journey.

Before we had proceeded four miles an Indian
overtook us, who said he had seen two mules, and
would bring them to us if we would give him a
blanket. I offered him five dollars for his trouble,
promising to pay him when he returned with the
mules. To this he agreed, and set ofi" at full gallop. I
don't know whether he concluded that the two mules
were worth more than five dollars. At all events, we
saw no more of our friend, and Cuold only hope that if
he had stolen them, they would behave with their
usual amiability.

A LONDON FOG. 299

Forded the Umatilla three times. Travelling
through the most disgusting country. Exactly the
old scene over again. Sage, sand, weeds — sand,
weeds, sage. Expecting to see the Columbia.
Thick London fog all day — camp on the top
of a hill. No water for supper, and no wood
to make a fire with. Feel rather anxious about
the mare, for the sand has been deep for many
miles, and notwithstanding a halt in the middle
of the day, it has been hard work to drag her
along till dark. Distance performed, eighteen
miles.

%th. — The night was cold and squally. As soon as
I was up, I saw the mare lying within a few yards of
my bed. She lifted her head to look at me, but I
saw she could not rise. On close examination I
found that, through weakness, she had ruptm-ed some
internal vessels, and was utterly destroyed. I picked
up a pistol to put an end to her sufferings, but had
not the heart to use it. As I had now no more
hopes of riding, I threw away my saddle, and other
horse-gear, and having packed the mules, set myself
with a good grace to walk the remaining hundred
miles. In about a couple of hours we were cheered
by a sight we had long wished to behold — broad,

300 hail! hail Columbia!

straiglit, and as blue as the sea, the great Cokimbia
flowed before us.

How welcome was that sight ! We hurried till Ave
reached the water, then paused to quench our thirst
and admire the refreshing scene. Invigorated in
mind and body, we again jogged on. But oh I shall
I ever forget that day's walk ? I do not exaggerate
when I say, that the sand was more than a foot deep.
For every two steps forward, it seemed as if you
slipped one step back. The sun was hot ; I had heavy
boots on, reaching above my knees. Notwithstanding
my utmost endeavours, 1 was already losing sight
of Julius, who was more than half a mile ahead.
Above all, I was weak from exhaustion, having hardly
tasted food since yesterday morning. There was no
change in the scenery. The banks of the Colimibia
seemed, if possible, more barren than those of other
rivers in this miserable country. Everything com-
bined to make me sick and dispirited. By the time
I had walked about fourteen or fifteen miles I over-
took Julius, and mounted his horse, while he took
his turn on foot.

Shortly afterwards, a lad came up on an Indian
pony. In answer to my questions, he said, that his
name was Henry Clarke, that he was fifteen years old,

HALT ON THE COLUMBIA. 301

that his father died at Fort Bois^e, where he had
lingered for some weeks under the hospitable roof of
Mr. Craigie, and that he had ridden with a party to
Wallah- Wallah, which place he left yesterday. He
had five pounds of floiu' with him, hut nothing io
mix it in. No bread, meat, or other provisions of
any kind. He had been told by Mr. M'Bean, the
master of the Wallah-Wallah fort, that in three days
he would reach the Dalles, a distance of 130 miles,
which he could not have accomplished in twice that
time. I told the boy that if he liked he might go
with us, promising him that he should share our
salmon while it lasted, provided he helped to diive
the mules, and make himself generally useful. He
was dehghted at my offer, saying that he felt it very
lonely, particularly at night. I was really quite
pleased to think how providentially he had fallen in
with us. Had it not so happened, he would have
ridden his horse to death in three days, and then have
been starved himself.

At two, halt on the river, and eat like wolves.
Make two or three miles in the afternoon, and camp
in some willoAv brush. I made two Norfolk dump-
lings, which were boiled successively in the teapot ;
but the operation required a great deal of labour and

302 NORFOLK DUMPLINGS — NO WATER.

patience, for we could not find a stick of dry wood.
Distance performed, nineteen miles.

9M. — Ride Julius's horse in the forenoon. Forded
the Quesnelios, then took the high table-land above
the river. In the afternoon the wind got up and
became piercingly cold ; and the dust, which flew in
clouds, both blinded and choked us. All this
time we were out of sight of the river which we
longed to see, both in order to camp and that we
might be able to quench our thirst, which the
particular nature of our food is, I find, very apt to
excite.

Even as yesterday ; much annoyed with ray w alk,
and vowed internally, that if I should be obliged to
make such another, I would cast my impediments to
the deuce, and ride little Strawberry, with what speed
I might, to the Dalles. At dark. Shadow gave out,
and we w^ere necessitated to stop on the summit of a
mountain, in sight of the river, but many thousand
feet above it. The boy Henry was sadly distressed
for want of water, not being so accustomed to this
privation as we were. He threatened to des(;end the
hill-side ; but this I prohibited ; so we went to bed
thirsty. Much consoled, however, by one of the
dumplings of the preceding evening. ITiis night we

INDIAN DANDY. 303

all felt the cold excessively. Distance performed,
twenty-five miles.

lOt/t. — TiuTied down to the river, and found
encamped on the bank six wagons full of emigrants.
They talked of getting to the Dalles to-morrow. I
assured them it was a good five days' journey for
them, and at least three days' for us.

A band of Kayuses, with their squaws and a
number of loose horses, passed us. We followed their
trail along the bank of the river, instead of taking
the wagon-track over the hills. I do not think we
gained much by the transaction, for their path was
not only dangerous, but so rocky, that we scrambled
along at a very slow pace.

Halted as soon as we came to a place where we
could get wood enough to cook some dumplings.
We begin to find that going without bread is per-
nicious to the health, now that w^e eat nothing but
salt meat or salmon, and very small quantities of that.
Yesterday I tightened my belt to the last hole ; in
fact, we are becoming more and more attenuated;
and the waist of ray gigantic companion is almost as
delicate as that of a woman.

Late in the evening an Indian rode into our camp
with a couple of horses. He was very smartly dressed,

804.

INDIAN DANDY.

and armed to the teeth, flis leggings, mocassins,
tobacco-pouch, and bow-case were all of red cloth, and
richly embroidered with variegated beads. lie had a
bright green blanket thrown over his shoulders, and
his long dark hair, carefully parted in the middle, gave
almost an effeminate expression to his regular features,
which contrasted strongly with his manly fonn. It
was already dark, and the glare of the fire round which
we were seated fell full upon the new comer. Waiting
for us to notice him, he stood perfectly still, holding
the lariats of his two horses, which continued snorthig
through fear at the smell of the white men. At first
I paid no attention to him, but continued to smoke in
silence ; but being struck with his uncommon appear-
ance, I motioned to him to be seated, and offered him
my pipe. After inhaling a few whiffs he returned it
to me with considerable grace, asked for some water,
and at the same time examined the contents of our
kettle. Understanding by this that he also wanted
food, I gave him a salmon ; but he indignantly rejected
it, and pointed significantly to the pot. I showed
him the dmnpling, and explained that it was not yet
cooked, but invited him to wait supper, and camp
with us for the night. He readily accepted, hobbled
his horses, spread his blankets by the fire, Hghted his

GIVE AWAY THE LOST MULES. 806

pipe, and, for aught I know, was a few minutes after
thinking as Uttle of the place and of the then present
time as I was.

Henry soon announced that the duniphng and
sahnon were waiting to be eaten. As this was always
the great event of the day, we did not keep them
waiting long. At supper, the Indian began to be
more communicative. He informed us that his name
was Wenan Pisnote, the chief of the Kayul tribes ;
that he left the Umatilla this morning, and was on his
way to visit the Chief of the Whites — /. e., the com-
manding officer at the Dalles. He had ridden already
more than sixty miles to-day, and would have continued
riding all night had he not seen our fire. 1 learned
from him that our lost mules had been picked up by
one of his tribe. He said, if I wished it, he would
send them to me when he returned. As, however, I
never wanted to see them again, I gave them to him
as a reward for his honest behaviour. He seemed
much pleased with the present, but refused to accept
it, unless I gave him a paper stating that he had
received them as a present, and not stolen them. I
wrote a few words to that effect on a leaf of my
pocket-book. This document he carefully deposited
in the bottom of his tobacco-pouch. Before we retired

306 ARRIVE AT JOHN DAY'b RIVER.

for the night, he asked nic u multitude of questions —
sucli as, whether I was a chief in my own country,
and, if I was a chief, wliy did I dress in rags ? — where
I was going to? — why I had come to this country,
and so on. Distance performed, eight miles.

11///. — Called all hands at daybreak. Wenan
Pisnote left us. Caught two horses that were with
our own ; took them on, and left them with some
emigrants whom Ave soon after fell in with, where the
wagon-track came down to the river. Showery and
cold. Followed the Indian trail by the river-side.
Terribly rocky. Saw several Avicker-huts on the
opposite bank. Met a gi'eat number of Kayuxes, and
several Indians belonging to other tribes, going to and
returning from the Dalles. They had all been there
to trade in horses. The usual price for a good horse
is six blankets j the blankets being valued at ten
dollars each.

Arrive at John Day's River — a most welcome point.
We hpve only forty-six miles more to go; in other
words, only two days' work ; which suits us exactly,
as our provisions could not well be made to last over
to-morrow. Distance, sixteen miles.

12t/i. — With Indians all day, stiU keeping the
;k. In some places the path was not a foot

river-

A NARHOV/ E.'JCAPE. 807

wide, and the stones were so loose that with all our
care we could scarcely keep the mules from slipping.

It happened, while we were creeping along through
one unusually dangerous spot, that a party of young
Indians, seeing the difficulty, gave a tremendous whoop
and a yell that made the mules think the devil was
after them. Master StrawbciTy, who was behind,
started ahead, and tried his best to push Shadow off
the path. My hair stood on end ! Shadow's hind-
legs were almost over the edge. Another minute, and
I expected her to roll into the river, nearly a thousand
feet below us. It was neck or nothing. I had a
stick in my hand, and gave her a sharp cut behind.
She forgot her danger, made a spring forward, and
again stood on the ledge of the precipice.*

Within a mile of the mouth of the Techuty are some
large rapids. Around these, on the right bank of the
river, is an Indian village, the inhabitants of which Hve
upon the fish taken at the falls. These people invited
us to camp among their lodges ; but, in the first
place, there was no wood, and, in the second, what
few things we had remaining I did not wish to be

* By threatening the Indians with the medicine I had just administered to
Shadow, and by making Henry walk between the mules, I obviated any further
accident till we reached in safety the Techuty River,

X 2

308

LAST NIGHT IN THE WILDERNESS.

stolen. So, giving half a dollhr for some acorn-bread
and a hatful of camash-roots, we moved about a
quarter of a mile up the river, and camped. After a
good deal of trouble we managed to make a fire with
a small log and a quantity of green rose-bushes, and
after a great deal more trouble contrived to make up
the last of our flour, and to cook it in the shape of a
dumpling.

And so this is to be our last supper and our last
night on the march. To-mono\^' we are to reach the
Soldiers' house ! I can hardly believe it possible.
The life we have led so long seems as if it must last
for ever. What is there in this night different from
other nights ? And yet it is the last ! No change of
scene. No sign of settlement. No increase of comfort.
No diminution of labour indicates in the smallest
degree our approach to civilisation, or release from this
long stage of drudgery, want, and annoyance.

To-morrow we shall be through ! Never did I so
rejoice at any prospect as I do at this ; and yet at this
lAoment I know how it will be. I feel sure that I
shall not rejoice when I am through, so much as I do
now at the thoughi; of being so. I shall long again
for that delight vith which I rolled myself in my
blankets after a hard day's work, and watched the

PRESENT TO AN INDIAN VENUS. 309

calm magnificence of the starry heavens till I fell
asleep, without h care for the troubles past or the
troubles to come. I shall long, with regret, for that
perfect state of health which made one laugh at trifles,
which at other times would have been the source
of grievous annoyance. I shall long for that sense of
freedom, which made one feel that one depended only
on Providence and oneself for everything : and above
all, I shall feel a weary vacuum in my existence
(though this perhaps will not last long), a painfol
sense of being without an object, without an end or
purpose ; without the hope, as I may say, which has
carried me through to the last. Well, hurrah for
to-morrow ! — but to-morrow is not here yet, and
perhaps never may be. Distance performed, fifteen
miles.

\2fh. — While packing, an Indian and two squaws
came down to our camp. One of the women was
particularly good-looking, — a fact which I had in-
sinuated to her yesterday, en pamant. I suppose
she came this morning with the hope of fascinating
some present out of me ; at all events, in consideration
of her good looks, I gave her my share of the pots and
pans and other nibbish — things invaluable to her, but
which I should never want again. This put her in

310

SOWETE PORRIDGE.

such good humoiir that she insisted on packing little
Strawberry by herself, and as far as concerned the
arrangement of the pack she adjusted it admirably ;
the fastening of the ropes, however, was rather too
much for her Amazonian capacities, and she was
obliged to call in my assistance.

When all was ready, we went togt hex to the
village. Here my fair friend introduced me to the
inside of her lodge, and gave me .:. mat to sit on while
she prepared a mess of soivete for my breakfast. This
dish consists of the bruised seeds of a kind of sun-
flower; the camash, a root which grows, like the
truffle, underground ; and the cartilaginous parts of a
fish's head. These ingredients, when boiled together,
with a small quantity of water, form a thick sort >i
porridge, not unUke pea-soup in consistency, the i, j'
the flavour is very diftereut and i *^her insipid. Having
eaten a few spoonfuls of the sowete (a littb of which
goes a long way), I lighted my pipe and h^i' chat
with my hostess, who, though not very quick in the
art of sign-making, was remarkably amiable and
meiTy, and would, I have no doubt, on a * u^i-ri-
acquaintance, have proved very affectionate into cue
bargain.

I invited her to ride with j ? to the Dalles,

INDIAN GUIDE IN MILITARY UNDRESS.

311

promising that I would give her as much paint and
beads as she Uked. She seemed half inclined to go
with me, but gave me to understand that her husband
would return to-night. This, of course, settled the
matter, and so wc parted.

Our two other visitors had given Julius a breakfast ;
and the man had agreed to act as pilot across the
rapids. Finding him so complaisant I explained to
him that I had no horse, and would give him a blanket
if he would lend me one of his animals for the day.
He immediately acceded to the proposal, and mounted
me on an old black mare, blind of one eye, and lame
in her fore-leg. He then equipped liiriiself for the
journey, dressed up in the choicest finery of his ward-
robe. A piece of gaudy-coloured chintz made into
the form of a cape, tucked up with several flounces,
and tied close round his neck, descended not quite to
his waist. On his head he wore a kind of Scotch
bonnet, ornamented with the stiff plume of a military
shako ; his hands were adorned with a pair of dirty
white cotton gloves, and a blanket, which enveloped
the lower part of his body, completed his somewhat
fantastic costume. Mounted on a fiery little pony,
which capered about in all directions, he reminded me
of a dressed-up monkey, dancing on a ban-el-organ.

FORDINa BELOW THE RAPIDS.

Our pilot led the way, and we took the river a little
below the rapids ; the distance across might be about
thi-ee hundred yards, but the current is so strong, and
the bottom so rocky, that it is necessary to pick the
way, and to make a considerable cm-ve. The water
rushed up to one's knees, and nearly took the horses
off their feet. My lame old brute stumbled frequently,
and more than once nearly pitched me into u torrent.
The scene of Snake River vividly recuiTed to me, and
until we reached terra firma on the other side, my
heart was beating all the while to the very top of my
throat. Om' road was very hilly, and on the summit
of the hills the wind was bleak and raw ; but we
pushed along right menily, the Indian keeping by my
side to flog on the lame mare; and Henry singing,
hooting, and laughing, running behind the mules, and
twisting their tails to keep them in a trot.

A change in the scenery now became visible, the
distant hills were covered with timber, but not all oi
pine-wood as heretofore ; occasionally a few oaks (the
first we had seen for months), were dotted along the
bottom of the vallies and scattered up the slopes,
enlivening by their bright green the dark tint of the
sombre pines. At every turn in the road we expected
to see the buildings of the Soldiers' house ; at last the

REACH THE DALLES.

313

white tents of a military post peeped through the
trees. " Soijai' house ! " exclaimed the Indian, — and
the Dalles were before us.

Jumping off my horse, I enquired of the first
private I met, who was the commanding officer?
" Major Tooker," said the man, in a strong German
accent. " Ax for Major Tooker." " Very good,"
said I, and started with Julius to the tent pointed
out to us. "Pray, sir, are you Major Tooker?" I
enquired of a middle-aged gentleman, in undress
uniform. " Tucker, sir. What do you want of
him?" " We are two English travellers," I replied,
" Our names are so and so, and we shall be most
happy to avail ourselves of your hospitality." The
Major laughed. We certainly did not look very
respectable ; indeed, our appearances, independent of
such a request, would have undoubtedly subjected us,
in England, to the full penalties of the vagrant act.
But the Maior knew who we were : Ered had arrived
two days before us, and had prepared the officers for
our coming. A tent was appropriated for our use ;
soap and water and clean shirts were liberally supplied,
and in the course of an hour we were sitting at table
at the officers' mess, drinking wine and eating roast
beef, with that peculiar degree of satisfaction which

314 THE DALLES.

we might be expected to feel at such an agreeable
termination to a ride of twenty-two hundred miles.
For nearly a month we had been on very short
commons, and forgetting that —

" Famished people must be slowly nursed,
And fed by spoonfuls, else they always burst,"

we eat so ravenously that we made ourselves quite ill
for two or three days.

During om* stay at the Dalles we were treated by
the officers with the greatest kindness. The post has
only lately been established, so that the officers, all of
whom Hve in tents, had it not in their power to
entertain us as handsomely as they might have wished ;
but considering the hardships we had lately under-
gone, our present life was a most agreeable and
luxurious one. 'Tis true, for several nights my rest
was frequently disturbed by visions of starved horses
and kicking mules, and I had some difficulty to
persuade myself when I woke at my usual hour, just
before dawn, that I had not to get up and put packs
on ; yet the daily supply of roast beef, and the
unlimited number of pipes smoked, in uninterrupted
hours of leisure, convinced one at last of the reality
of our position, and allowed one to be truly thankful

THE DALLES.

31]

to Providence for a safe deliverance from dangers that
were past, without disturbing one's mind with the
contemplation of difficulties that might perhaps be in
store for us.

CHAPTER IX.

Leave the Dallei. — Magnificent Scenery. — American Settler. — Old Goowberry.
— Yankee Patriots. — River Navigation. — Threatened Boat-\rreck. — More
Patriotism. — The Church Militant. — " Cape Horn." — Fort Vancouver. —
Oregon City. — High price of Land and Houses. — Valley of Willamet.—
English and American Emigration Policy contrasted. — Oregon Cathedral. —
Embark for the Sandwich Islands.— Detained in Baker's Bay. — Regret the
Prairie. — Hurricane. — Fleas, Rats, and Cockroaches. — Land at Honolula.—
Female Equestrians. — The Maro. — Cleanliness uf the Natives. — Manufacture
of Kava an exception. — Tamehameha III. — Presented at Court. — Awkward
Accident. — " Royalty is Royalty." — Looliou Feast. — Playful Flirtation. —
Native Dancing. — Poe. — Flirtation resumed. — Romantic Adventure. — '• Me
no bad." — Departure for California.

On the 20th, we procured a canoe, capable of
containing seven or eight persons, and embarking
with our baggage, Fred, JuUus, and I, took leave of
the Dalles. Two Chinook Indians rowed the boat,
and a Yankee, to whom it belonged, acted as pilot.
Fred and I rejoiced at being again together ; and the
parson, who stretched himself on his blankets at the
bottom of the canoe, thought this mode of travelling
far preferable to pack-mules.

For some few miles the river is confined in a chan-
nel of basaltic rock. It is here narrow, and exces-

MAGNIFICENT SCENELf. 317

sively deep. Further down it gradually widens, and
is ornamented by groups of small wooded islands.
At one of these islands we landed in the middle of
the day to rest the Indians, and eat our lunch.

Towards evening we again put ashore, at an Indian
village, where we supped, and afterwards camped for
the night, a few miles below on the north bank.

21a'/. — The scenery on the river to-day was most
magnificent. It reminded me a little of the Danube,
below Linz, or of the finest parts of the Elbe, in
Saxon Switzerland ; the resemblance, however, is only
that which the miniature bears to the full-sized
portrait. Here, as throughout America, one is struck
not only with the wonderful variety of form and
colom', the beautiful combination of wood, water, and
mountain, but, with the immensity, the grandeur of
the scale upon which the whole is proportioned. The
rivers are actually wider, the mountains are actually
higher, the pines are taller, the colours are brighter,
than the eyes of a Em'opean are accustomed to look
upon in his own country. As a general effect pro-
duced upon the mind of a traveller, the whole of the
scenery, in the northern part of America, is upon too
large a scale to be considered more than astonishing.

Travelling, as a man may, fifteen hundred miles

318 SCENERY OP EUROPE AND AMERICA CONTRASTED.

upon one river, will, no doubt, surprise him if he has
been in the habit of considering the whole length of
the Rhine a very respectable tour, or the voyage from
London to Gravesend, as a serious undertaking. But
long enough before he has travelled half the length of
the Rhine upon any one of the North American rivers,
except the Hudson or the St. LaAvrence, he will begin
to sigh for some change in the scene. He would
wUhngly yield the honour of traveUing another seven
or eight hundred miles upon the same river, for a
sight of a few such interesting objects as the ruined
castle of Heidelberg, the gi'andeur of Drache ifds, or
even the beauties of Richmond, or any such river-side
place or places, which we Cockneys are wont to take
pleasm'e in. It is the same with the great fresh-water
lakes, Superior, Huron, Ontario, &c. They are, no
doubt, much bigger than Lake Constance, or the
Virginia Water; but in four hours' steaming on almost
any of the American lakes you are out of sight of
land, and may steam away in one direction for two
whole days, and still be out of sight of land. It is
astonishing that there should be so mm h fresh water
collected in one spot, no doubt ; but, I, for one, would
every bit as lief be at sea, partitdarly when these
same fresh waters are so rough, that some five or six

A NIGHT BY THE CASCADES. 319

hundred passengers in one vessel are all as sick as if
they were fairly on the Atlantic, or any other part of
the briny deep. Rivers or lakes, mountains or prairies,
one sees so much of each by itself, and so little of
them combined, that what is really beautiful in scenery
is rarely to be met with in North America.

The day was fine, and we set our sail to a fair
breeze. In the afternoon we reached the Cascades, as
they are called. They are the beginning of an
immense fall in the river, and form a succession of
rapids nearly two miles long. Close to the Cascades,
an American settler has built a couple of houses ; he
is now putting up two others of zinc, which he pro-
poses to fill with such stores as will be necessary to
those emigrants who come from the Dalles by water,
instead of taking their wagons over the Cascade
Mountains. We found no boat or canoe to take us
from the lower end of the rapids^ ;>o we carried our
baggage up to the settler's house, and staid the night,
with the promise of a boat the next day.

There were two gentlemen staying here, who, when
they heard that we were strangers, invited us to pass
the evening with them. An officer of the Mounted
Rifles was also of the party. Our new acquaintances
insisted on our drinking half a dozen of bad gooseberry.

320 AMIABLE NATIONALITIES.

which they called champagne, There were no such
things as chairs in the house, but we were all accus-
tomed to sit upon the ground. I managed to seat
myself in the comer of the room ; and as the flooring
was only partly laid down, contrived very fortunately
to pour my share of the champagne through the
boards.

In a short time the party began to be a "ery noisy
one. Healths were drunk — toasts propoi compli-
ments respecting our different nations were made in
the most flattering terms. The Anglo-Saxon race
were destined to conquer the globe. The English
were the greatest nation under the sun ; that is to
say, they had been. America would take the lead in
time to come. We questioned this. The Americans
were certain of it. The big officer of the Mounted
Rifles, a genuine " heavy," wanted to know where the
man was that would give him the lie. Was not the
Mounted Rifles the crack regiment of the American
army ? and was not the American army the finest
army in the world ? What fool could compare the
Peninsular campaign to the Mexican war ? Talk of
Waterloo ! Let the Britishers look at Chepultapec.
As to Wellington, he coul*^ not shine with General
Scott, nor old Zack neither. W" wished for a war.

ENGLISH MANNEU8 — YANKEE HOSPITALITY. 3^1

just to give tlie " Mounted Rifles " a cImiK.e of l)eing
annihilated by the " Horse Guards." Tlwi/ wished
for nothing better, and struck thou- fists at the walls
r>f the zinc house till it sounded like the roar of
artillery.

Then it was considered by all sides that there was
too much noise. Britishers and Yankees were not
such fools as to quarrel. Let everybody drink every-
body else's health. A gentleman in the corner thought
supper woidd be a good thing. The gentleman's
health in the corner was then proposed for having
suggested the idea, and a Dutch cheese was produced
with great ceremony and much ^clat. Some one here
coupled the ideas of Dutch cheeses and Yankee
hospitality. Some one else thought English manners
might be mended. Confusion was then drunk to
Yankee hospitality, EngUsh manners, and Dutch
cheeses. After which, a song being called for, a
gentleman sang " The flag that has braved the battle
and the breeze for a thousand years," and proposed
that the stars and stripes which had done wonders for
nearly ninety years, should also be sung by the stout
" heavy " of the Mounted Rifles. This gentleman,
however, was not to be trifled with ; he could not and
would not stand it. Doubts were expressed whether

3:J'l

TO PORT VANCOUVER.

he could at that time stand anything, whereupon he
chiilienged the whole company, and fell down. It was
nearly daylight before the party broke up. It was
thought by some that a swim in the cascades would
be rather refi'eshing. But the plan was given up, and
those who were suffering from the warmth of the
discussions composed themselves to sleep, without
further to do, hi the open air.

21*A — Early in the morning the settlers' boat came
up, and we were taken about a mile down the river,
till we found a larger boat ready to convey us to Port
Vancouver. This boat was manned by a Maltese
sailor and a man that had been in the American army.
They both had their own notions concerning the
theory of seamanship. But the more ignorant of the
two, the soldier, happened to be part owner of the
boat, and therefore its commanding officer ; and the
Maltese was obliged to obey orders accordingly. At
noon the wind freshened, and the river became so
rough that we were wetted from stem to stem at
almost every plunge. It was found, at length, that if
the Maltese was kept at the helm, the soldier was not
capable of raanagirr^- the sails. In this difficulty, " the
heavy," who was still with us, proposed that both men
should work the sails, while he took charge of the

THE HEAVY AT THE HELM.

323

steerage. The plan was adopted ; but in a few
minutes the boat was nearly swamped, and all hands
proclaimed that the change had been for the worse.
The "heavy," hovever, was too much alarmed to
trust any one but himself, and insisted upon keeping his
post, while he shouted to the men to trail up the jib,
haul in the weather sheets, &c. The Maltese was so
completely 'pwerted by these extraordinary orders that
he began to curse and swear hi every language that he
knew an oath of As to the poor soldier he expected
every minute to go to the bottom. Fred, who had
been laughing heartily at the miserable condition of
the party, gave it as xiis opinion that I, who had been
professionally a sailor, should change places with the
mounted rifleman. The " heavy " could not deny
that his knowledge of nautical matters had been prin-
cipally obtained by frequent trips in river steamboats,
end that, perhaps, he mi:jht be of more service if he
were to " stand by " -he haulyards, and be ready to
let go the main mast, in case the worst should come to
the worst. The breeze continued to freshen, and
having taken a reef in the mainsail, and let the boat
go as free as our course would permit, we slashed
along at a good brisk ratv^. The Maltese began to be
restored tr good humour, and the soldier to recover

Y -J

324 THE VOYAGE.

his courage. The heavy, who sat on the weather
gunwale, dripping from head to foot, and shivering till
his teeth chattered, was the only unhappy-looking
being in the party : to add to his discomfort Fred and
the parson, who lay snugly smoking their pipes in the
bottom of the boat, made him the butt of their jokes.
We were now approaching a high point, which we
were told Avas called Cape Horn, from the bad weather
which is invariably met with in passing it. In order
to weather this it was necessary to tack. I gave the
word, " ready about," and put the helm down. We
had run as near the rocks as we dared before we went
about, and our position would in any case have been
rather critical had I not known that a small boat is
quick in her stays, and that we could fill and be under
good weigh in less than a minute. No sooner had I
given the words " ready about " than the pintail gave
way, the tiller was knocked out of my hand, and the
boat flew round into the wind. " Out with the oars,"
said I, but no oars were to be got at. It was useless
to hold the rudder with my hands ; the boat had no
steerage weigh. In an instant all was confusion and
uproar. The Maltese swearing ; the " heavy " wring-
ing his hanrls, and crying, " T told you how it would
be ; " the soldier out of his mind, and proposing a

GET ON SHORE. 325

thousand things in a breath ; Fred begging the whole
lot to be quiet ; the parson fumbling to get out an
oar ; and I, in anything but a pleasant state of mind,
watching the boat drifting rapidly into the surf, and
calculating how many bumps she would stand on the
rocks before she would go to pieces. Luckily the
water shallowed, and the men, by jmnping overboard,
were able to drag the boat through the breakers into
a small bay a little above the point. We drew the
boat high and dry upon the beach. Got out the
provisions, lit a fire, and agreed to stay wlieve we were
till the stonn had blown over.

After dinner the .and moderated, and Fred and T
were for mending the rudfl :• aiul continuing the
voyage. The Americans, howevc , ^\ould i. it budge.
Some wrangling ensued about the folly of V'^ting
time on one side, and the folly of risking our lives on
the other. The Yankee skipper, who iiad got drunk
upon our whiskey, supported by the " heavy " main-
tained that, soldier as he was, he knew a aich about
boat-sailing as any midshipman, aye or post-ca})tain
either, in the British navy, and be darned if he'd be
taught by any of them. He concluded with the
stereotyped Yankee assertion that his nation could
whip all creation.

326 FOLLY OP QUARRELING IN GENERAL.

We had been laughing so much at his boasting that
he doubtless thought himself safe in accompanying the
remark with an insolent look of defiance. But what
was his surprise when the parson, usually a most
pacific giant, suggested that if Fred would take the
Maltese, I the amphibious captain, he himself Avould
with great pleasm-e tlu:ash the mounted rifle, and so
teach the trio to be more civil and submissive for the
future. Whatever the other two might have thought,
the " heavy " was by no means inclined to make a
target of his fat ribs for the sledge-hammer blows of
Julius's brawny arms, and with a few remarks upon
the folly of quarrelling in general, and of fighting on
the present occasion in particular, not forgetting to
remind us of " one original stock/' " Saxon race," &c.,
the good-iiiitiired "plunger" effected an armistice,
which was scaled and ratified with the remains of the
whiskey-bottle.

22nd. — ^The gale continued blowing all night, till,
towards daylight, there was a slight lull. The
Americans were now clamorous to depart, but as
they had refuseu to start when we were ready, we
thought it would be a good joke to lie in our blankets
while they waded up to their waists in the cold water
to launch the boat. The " heavy " was sadly annoyed

REACH PORT VANCOUVER. 8:27

at our foolish conduct, but seeing no help for it,
turned liis trousers up to his knees, and without shoes
and stockings began paddling about in the mud ; at
one minute sinking so deep that he could not
extricate liis legs, at another setting his naked feel
upon a sharp stone that made him limp, to the
amusement of the whole party. When all was ready
we embarked, and rowirg till we were clear of Cape
Horn, hoisted our jib, and scudded before the wind,
which had now veered round to the north-east. We
reached Fort Vancouver just in time to find the
gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company sitting down
to dinner. We were kindly received by Mr. Ogden,
and took up our quarters once more under the glorious
protection of the British Flag.

dose to the old fort of the Fur Company is a
mihtary post belonging to the Americans. Hand-
some quarters have lately been built, and are now
occupied by a detachment of the regiment of Mounted
Rifles. A small town is springing up. The district
is extremely healthy, and that portion of the land
which has been cleared and is under cultivation
produces heavy crops of wheat, and excellent pasture
for sheep and cattle.

On the 26th we crossed the river, here about a

328

CROSS THE RIVER TO OREGON CITY.

mile in width, and hiring horses from a settler on
the southern bank, rode to Oregon city in about five
hours. Our road lay through a forest of pines, and
most magnificent trees they were ; many of them
measm'cd from thirty to forty feet in circumference,
and some of them were two hundred feet high, and as
straight as an arrow. Falmouth and Millwankie are
two flourishing little towns on the Willamet River.
As we passed through them, their whole population
Avere busy in clearing the timber, building log huts, or
attending the saw mills. There are two pretty good
hotels in Oregon city, but at present the company is
not very select. Mr. Ogden, mindful of this circum-
stance, had furnished us each with letters of introduc-
tion to English gentlemen of his acquaintance, who had
houses in the town. Mine was to Dr. M'Cloughlin,
formerly chief factoi in the Hudson Bay service,
and founder of Oregon city. With great hospitality
the Doctor invited me to become his guest. I availed
myself of his offer, and stayed in his house for a
couple of days.

The capital of the Oregon territory is situated on
the Willamet River, a tributary of the Columbia. The
main part of the town lies in a deep cafion, and,
owing to the fall of the river at the head cf the city,

OREGON CITY. 329

possesses the advantages of splendid water power.
Six or seven mills are already built, and are capable
of being worked even at the driest time of the year.
There is still room for almost an unlimited number,
and when Oregon becomes thickly populated, as
it soon will, this must be one of the largest
manufacturing towns in America. At the present
time Oregon city contains about 500 inhabitants.
Buildings are springing up in all directions, and lots
of land yet uncleared are being bought up at liigh
prices. Small wooden houses, with no more than two
or three rooms, rent at 150 dollars to 200 dollars a
month. A lot of IGO feet by 100 feet cannot be bought
near the town for less than 200 dollars. Plans are
actually being made for pubUc promenades and other
ornamental improvements, and while these energetic
people have hardly made their own roofs weather proof,
they are exercising their uigenuity to raise a capital,
which for its advantages will summon consumers from
the remotest corners of the country. From the sterile
nature of the land hi the immediate neighbourhood,
no cultivation of importance can be carried on. But
at a distance of thu-ty miles is the beautiful valley of
Willamet. Its soil is, perhaps, unequalled in fertility
by any in the world, and in extent it is capable ». f

880

INDUCEMENTS TO BMIGUATION.

supporting a very large population, I was told that
foity and even fifty bushels an acre was considered an
average crop of wheat upon a farm in Willamet Valley;
and I have myself seen potatoes and onions half as
big as a man's head ; and turnips, cabbages, and
other vegetables grown in the field, with the smallest
amount of culture, finer than the same vegetables
produced in England, even with the superior advan-
tage of spade husbandry. From this valley to Oregon
city, a distance of about thirty miles, the Willamet
River is navigable for vessels of fifty or sixty tons.
A steamer is now being built, so that transport will
be thoroughly facilitated between these agricultural
and manufactming districts. I could not help con-
trasting the prospects of an American settler in
Oregon, with those of the emigrant in our neighbouring
colony at Vancouver's Island. Here, if a man be a
faj-mer he may have the best of land to work upon
— if a manufacturer or mechanic, the widest field for
advancement. In Vancouver's Island there is scarcely
sufficient arable land to supply a small colony with
food. It is in the hands of the Hudson's Bay Company ;
and the most fertile districts are not to be purchased
but at a price more than double the government
charge.

EMBARK FOR SANDWICH ISLES.

881

On Sunday we went with Dr. M'Cloughlin to the
Roman Cathohc cathedral, where we were edified by
the sight of an Archbishop in purple and fine linen,
and heard a very good sermon in French upon the
subject of confession. The next day we returned to
Fort Vancouver, and on the 14th of November,
embarked for the Sandwich Islands in the Mary Dare,
a brig of 120 tons, belonging to the Hudson's Bay
Company, We were told that we ought to make the
passage in three weeks, and laid in provisions
accordingly.

Our start was by no means propitious. We ran
aground several times going down the river, and when
we got to the mouth of the Colombia, we were
obliged to lie at anchor ten days in Baker's Bay, on
account of bad weather and strong winds, which pre-
vented us from attempting the narrow and dangerous
channels at the entrance. This fortnight had sickened
us of ship-board. The constant wet had confii .ed us
to a httle cabin about twelve feet by eight, in which
we all slept, fed, and lived. We had no mattresses for
our berths ; only two or three blankets, and swarms of
fleas. Upon the whole, we declared the prairies were
infinitely more comfortable, and the want of exercise
and close imprisonment were quite unbearable.

33^

PLEASURES OF THE VOYAGE.

When we got to sea mutters did uot mend ; after a
day or two the wind, wliich shoidd have been a trade,
blew in gales from the south-east, the very point of
our course. At the end of a week, our fresh pro-
visions were nearly exhausted. All oiu* books had
been read twice through, and everybody was out of
humour. Week after week came and went, and still
no change in the wind. For a day or two there was
a dead cahn, and all hands waited anxiously to see if
the next wind woidd be fan*. No, worse than ever j
still from the same point, but this time a regular
hm-ricane ; the gimwale of the little brig constantly
under water, the sails splitting, the jib-boom carried
away, the crockery smashing at every meal, the soup
(lobs-skouce) always in youi- lap. The captain damn-
ing the mate ; the mate the men ; and \fe the steward.

At night it was positively dangerous to sleep j for a
heavy lurch would break your nose, or knock your
front teeth down your throat; — and then the fleas, rats,
cockroaches ! never w as such provocation. The pigs
died because the long boat in which they were kept
was filled accidentally with salt water, and when the
25th of December at last ai'rived, we had been six
weeks on board, and had nothing but drowned pork,
salt salmon, and lobs-skouce for our Christmas dinner.

CHARMS OF THE MARY DARE. 333

We had not even any wine left, nothing but rum.
Of course, we did not say, " Well, we might have
been worse oft', and this is better than starving on the
plains ;" but we did think oiu-selves great fools for
leaving England for our own amusement, and such
amusement as this ; and we did think that we were
making the very longest voyage between Fort
Vancouver and the Sandwich Islands ever vet
recorded ; and we blessed the " Mary Dare" as a coal
tub in consequence.

T should imagine no people were ever i..'jre dis-
gusted with a sea voyage than we, when at the end of
the seventh week the land appeared to finish it. How
beautiful the islands looked as we steered between
them, with a fair wind, and studding sails set on both
sides. I thought the tropics more charming than
ever. The water looked bluer ; the palm-trees taller ;
the vegetation greener ; and Natm-e seemed to receive
us with open arms. She seemed to say, here I am,
happy and beautiful as ever ; enjoy me to the extent
of your will.

The pilot could not take us in that day, so we
hired a shore-boat, and in half an hour had passed
the coral reefs, and were landed at the town of
Honolulu, the capital of Woahoo. Our first object

834 SCENERY AND PRODUCTIONS.

was to call upon the Consul-Gcneral, Miller. He
was kind enough to give me a room in his house ; a
nice little cottage, as pretty and comfortable as if it
had l)cen in England. Fred and the parson were
quartered upon an English merchant. Our first
impressions of Honolulu were particularly pleasing.
The irregularity of the town, the beauty of its
situation, the picturesque grass houses, surrounded
with wide verandahs, and shaded by groves of trv .s,
and the cheerful and manly look of the natives, were
all most agreeable novelties.

From the shores of the bay the country rises
gradually into a range of lofty mountains. Imme-
diately behind the town is the beautiful vaUey, with
a road winding up it which leads to the other
side of the island. This valley is richly cultivated,
principally with fields of tarro, a large root not unlike
the yam, but requiring regular and constant irrigation.
Here and there are small villas, with gardens full of
every tropical production. The biead fruit is one of
the most flourishing ; bananas, plantains, orange trees,
and limes are amongst the number. Melons and
pine-apples are as common as turnips, and, strange to
say, are much better eating. Higher up the valley,
where it becomes too steep and narrow for cultivation,

rifMATE OF WOAHOO. 335

vegetation is rich in all its native luxuriance. Acacia
trees, sundal-wood, bitter oranges, maple, and many
others, wave tlu^r heads over the tangled mass of
evergreen shrubs and underwood. The high peaks
constantly in the clouds arrest the moisture of the sea
atmosphere, and numbers of little rills pour down the
mountain's sides, making all fresh as constant spring.
The climate is one of the least changeable in the
world ; the sea-breeze blows day and night ; and in
the whole course of the year the thermometer does not
vary more than five or six degrees, the average
temperature being about 84" Fahrenheit.

At the eastern extremity of Woahoo is an extin-
guished volcano : there are many others in the island,
but none of them have been in action within the
memory of man. Between the one at the east end
and the town is a wide plain about four miles
long. Here th' natives ride every evening after
the heat of the day has subsided ; on Saturday,
their favourite day, Rotten Row is not more gay and
lively than this plain. The wyheenes, as the women
are called, riding « /' Amazone decked out in all
the colours of the rainbow, with the gaudy maro
twisted round their legs, and sweeping to the
ground ; their pretty little straw hats covered with

330 THE NATIVES.

ribands, or their uncovered heads, with their black
hair streaming in the wind, confined only by a wreath
of fresh orange flowers ; their laughing faces and
merry voices all seem so graceful, so good-humoured,
and so purely natural, that it is impossible not to be
dehghted with them. They are fearless riders ; and
although the horses are not what w^e should term
thorough-bred, they are made to gallop at such speed
that it is no^ an easy, though very amusing, matter to
keep up a nmning flirtation with their dusky pro-
pellers.

The men are fine swarthy fellows, rather above than
below the average height ; the only clothing they wear
is the maro, a cloth manufactured by themselves from
the bark of the acacia. The maro is about two yards
and a half long, and not mon; than a foot Avide ; they
pass it between the legs, and then once or twice round
the loins. Formerly the women wore a short petticoat
made of tin same material : but since the introduction
of missionaries this simple garment has given place to
a most unfashionable gown of Em'opean stamped
cotton stuff", constructed in the fonn of those articles
w^orn by our lady ancestors some hundred years since,
with the waist close under the arms, like a second tier
of throat. Tt is to be hoped that this sacrifice of

MANUFACTURE OP KAVA.

q.)7
Cat

appearances has been followed by a proportionate
improvement in their morality, for doubtless the
intention, however misuccessful, has been to make
them as unseductive as possible.

The habits of the islanders are simple and remark-
ably cleanly. Their food consists almost entirely of
poe, a paste made of the tare root, and eaten after it
has midergone fennentation and is become sour.
They use no spoons, but sit cross-legged around the
poe-tub, and dip their two fore-fingers into the paste,
which is thus conveyed to their mouths. Generally
they eat raw fish at their meals ; when this is the case,
each person has a small pan of fresh water by his side,
wherein he carefully washes his fingers after each
mouthful of fish, before he sticks them into the poe-
jar. Bananas and cocoa-nuts are also ordinary articles
of food; sometimes, but more rarely, rice and the
sugar-cane.

One peculiar custom is the making of the hari, an
intoxicating liquor, of which the natives were immo-
derately fond. Now, it is iahoocd, or prohibited by
authority of the missionaries, and is, in concequence,
only made secretly. The kava is a small root, I
believe, of the pepper tribe ; it is chewed by women,
who spit the juice into a bowl, and, being diluted

338

EFFECTS OF KAVA.

with water, it soon ferments and becomes exceedingly
potent. The effects of drinking too much of this
liquor are similar to those produced by opium. A
torpor succeeds the first stage of drunkenness ; and
in the course of time the bodies of those who take it
are emaciated and palsied, as if they had suffered from
a paralytic stroke. The method of making the hava
is certainly not an instance of their cleanliness ; nor,
perhaps, is their primitive mode of eating poe and raw
fish. But with regard to their persons I never saw
a more cleanly race. They are constantly bathing;
even the women and young children remain for hours
in the water, and swim with as much ease as
the mer.

After we had been ten days or a fortnight in
Honolulu, we were informed by General Miller that,
if we wished it, he would procm'e us an opportunity
of being presented to His Majesty Tamehameha HI.
A day was appointed for our reception at court, and,
having fitted ourselves out for the occasion with suits
of black dittos, made by a black tailor from the
United States, we put ourselves under the shade of
our Consul's cocked hat, and marched in a body to
the palace. When we aivived, a native band of music
was playing our national anthem, but whether in

PRESENTED AT COURT. 389

honour of His Majesty or of our presentation I am
not aware. For about half an hour we were made to
wait in the entrance-hall, where we were introduced
to several chiefs dressed in European uniforms. What
their names might have been it is difficult to say: one
sounded Mke Tooey-Tooey, another like Pooh-Iooh —
all equally incomprehensible to us, but probably very
aristocratic and distinguished in their own language.

At last the Minister of Foreign Affiiirs, a gentleman
with a powerful Scotch accent, and an enormous star
upon his breast, came to conduct us to the royal
presence. The audience chamber was crowded with
the nobility and gentry of the Hawaian kingdom.
His Majesty and the Queen were supported on one
side by the male, on the other by the female members
of their family; those on the Queen's side being
arranged in chromatic order, from a spare young lady
in short petticoats and trousers, to the royal con-
sort herself, who stood up, perhaps because the
throne would not have conveniently held her ; while
those on the other were reversed in gradation, the
greatest in dignity being almost the least in person.

When we entered, an envoy from the United States
was reading, in good Yankee, a long letter from the
President to the King, to which address His Majesty

z 2

340

KING TAMEHAMEHA III.

paid the most profound attention, though not under-
standing a single word of English. In the mean-
while, we amused ourselves in pulling on our white
kids, and looking at some coloured prints of the
English troops, which reminded me very much of the
pattern papers in the tailors' shops, or the recruiting
placards in the neighbourhood of the Horse Guards.

Having wandered for several minutes up and down
Parliament Street to the drone of the Yankee envoy,
I was "brought to" by a tap on the shoulder from
the bustling Scotchman with the star. Fred, it was
settled, was to be done first, and the parson and I
were to follow. Apparently, there was some difficult
point of etiquette to be decided upon between the
Foreign Affairs and the General, as to which of the
two should present us. The Consul carried the day,
and the Foreign Affaii's compromised the matter by
preceding the party and interpreting our names to
the King.

Now, as a general rule, it musi be observed,
Tamehameha HI., not finding his imperial duties in
daily requisition, is much given to pass his unoccupied
hours in company with a brandy bottle ; and when-
soever an occasion like the present does occur to force
upon him the pomp and circumstance of his position,

SHAKSPKARB S HENRY V.

34.1

the only consolation for leaving the bottle behind is
that of taking the contents along with him. He had
evidently adopted the plan this time; and, as we
approached, it was easy to see that if his hand had
slipped from the arm of his throne, his royal person
would, in accordance with the laws of gravitation,
have measured its length on the floor. Such an acci-
dent did not happen ; but, summoning all his presence
of mind, he commanded the Lord High Admiral, a
giant of six feet five inches, to snuff the candles,
and briefly expressed his delight in our visit.

Notwithstanding the agreement made between the
Consul and the star-man, the latter, unwilling to lose
an opportunity of showing his importance, took Fred
by the hand, and, addressing the King in a long
rigmarole of the broadest Scotch, said that it was
seldom that the Sandwich Islands were " veesited" by
strangers of such " dist^^cnction;" that somebody —
heaven knows who — ought to be proud of the present
occasion ; that the Duke of tliis and Lord the other
were the greatest noblemen in the world ; and wound
up with a quotation of a cokunii and a half long from
Shakespeare's play of " Henry V."

My bow was soon made, but as I retired in due
form, with my back to the dooi-, I had the misfortune

{J4-2 A LOOHOU FEAST.

to set my heels on the toes of a black and tan terrier,
a privileged dog of the general's. The animal shrieked ;
and in my anxiety to take care of my legs, I turned so
suddenly round that I lost my balance, and nearly fell
hito the arms of the princess in trousers. This shock
to my gravity was enough of itself to make me laugh,
but when I saw my friend the parson, the a A'^kwardest
of men, trip over a stool and fairly turn his back upon
the throne, I was glad to make my escape a.^ quick as
possible, and vent my mirth in the midst of the crowd.
So ended our glimpse at the Hawaian court. Upon
the whole the levee might be considered highly
respectable, and, as the foreign affairs afterwards
remarked to me, " We do things in a humble way,
but, ye'U obseerve, royalty is royalty all over the
world, and Tamehameha is as much the king of his
domeenions as Victoria is the Queen of Great
Br^etain."

A few days after this event, an English gentleman,
the principal merchant in the island, invited us to a
Loohou feast that he was about to give to some thirty
or forty of the natives. The head of the beautiful
valley of the Woahoo was selected for the celebration
of this ancient custom. Mounted on horses with which
Mr. had furnished us, wc repaired in a party to

THE CUSTOM OP THli OOUNTKY.

343

Ihe appointed spot. It was early in the afternoon
when we reached it, and none of the guests had yet
arrived, excepting a few men who were employed in
thatching an old shed to afford shelter from the sun,
and strewing the ground with a thick carpet of palm
leaves. In a short time groups of horses and the gay
fluttering dresses of the women were seen galloping up
the valley. No men were admitted but those who
had been expressly invited, but each lady of importance
was given a carte blanche to bring as many of her own
sex as she pleased, provided they were both pretty and
respectable. As they rode up we, of com*se, with
proper gallantry, offered om* assistance wliile they
dismounted. Seeing one that was decidedly possessed
of beauty, and I took for granted, of the other sine-
qua-7ion, respectability, I prepared to lift her from her
saddle, when, to my astonishment, instead of a
gracious acknowledgment of my services, she gave me
a cut with her whip that I did not at all relish. Here,
thought I, is one remarkably handsome, but singularly
devoid of good bchavioiu. The beauty laughed at my
wry faces, and I was given to understand that it was
mere playful flirtation on her part, and, in short, that
it was the custom of the country.

When the party was assembled preparations for the

;il I HAWAIAN DANCING.

feast were made. Pigs, poultry, and dogs, and all
sorts of vegetables, were rolled up in plantain leaves,
and put into holes in the ground, covered with stones.
Fires were then lit over them, and the men were set to
work to grind poe, while the women danced and sang.
The songs Avcre recitals, entirely, I believe, of
imaginary love adventures, sung in an extraordinary,
monotonous tone, accompanied with descriptive
motions of the limbs. To us, who did not understand
the language, they appeared to be impromptu, ; at least,
so we judged from the constant repetition of the same
words and sentences. The singer never for a moment
hesitates, but continues his or her exertions, hardly
pausing to recover breath, till nearly black in the
face. This perfonnance acts as an excitement to the
dancers, who, havhig decorated themselves Avith a
flounce or petticoat of plantain leaves, start up at the
conclusion of the monody, and wriggle about in a most
ungraceful manner, to a continuation of the song
chanted by the dancer herself. As in a perpetual jig,
the object is to hold out as long as possible ; the
spectators scream applause to each new posture, till at
length, almost frantic with her eflPorts and the noise,
she falls down completely exhausted.

When the food was sufficiently cooked, it was spread

DRINKING PAIR.

345

upon the' ground, and with Uttle pretence at decorum
each person seated herself opposite her favourite dish.
The animal condiments soon disappeared, but, notwith-
standing the enormous quantity of dog or pig
consumed by these charming creatures, each one
contrived to stow away as much poe as would fill a
hat. TKa statement may sound rather apocryphal,
but it is nevertheless a true one, and had I not seen it
I never could have believed in the condensable nature
of poe, or in the elastic nature of a wyheene's
stomach. Wine or spirits were served round after
dinncx, a bottle of either being allotted to a certain
number. As the use of all liquor is strictly prohibited
by law, little sufficed to upset them. But with that
little they were by no means satisfied. Drinking fair
— for they had never heard of Mrs. Gamp — was
decidedly not t/ieir motto, and as the quantity in the
bottle diminished, their anxiety to get at it increased.
Such scratching, pulUng of hair, crying and kicking,
were never before seen, and our utmost endeavom's were
required to separate and to reconcile the belligerents.

The next object was to put them on horseback.
This task was the most difficult of all, for by the time
two of us had perched one in her saddle, and balanced
her with the greatest nicety, another that we had just

846 OVERTAKING A LADY.

left woiild lose her equilibrium, and fall with a scream
to the ground. It reminded me of packing mules in
the praii'ies, though in this instance we laughed as
much as we should have been vexed in the other.
When all were mounted the word was given to start,
and away they ijalloped at full speed down the valley.
Amongst the .ot was one whose horseuianship I
particularly admired, but on coming neaj I saw she
owed this distinction to her abstemiousness at the
feast. From the first I had been struck with her
beauty, and may add, also, with her whip, for she
it was who had so kindly initiated me into the
" customs of her country," when I offered my aim in
the morning.

Intending to renew my acquaintance, I put spurs to
my horse, in order to overtake her. The animal I
was riding was unusually liigh mettled. I thought,
however, I could pull up when I pleased : so giving it
the rein, I rode straight for my object. Hearing some
one racing close behind she swerved her horse, but
so close was I, and so fast was I going, that I had no
time to turn an inch from my course. The two horses
brushed one another. 1 leant on one side, to avoid
striking her, but my knee caught her leg, and she was
hurled from the saddle in an instant. 1 thought I

LOOKING T0WAUD8 HOME. 347

must have killed her, she fell with such force to the
ground. Luckily, however, she was very light, and the
turf was soft, and by the time I had jumped from my
horse, and stood by her side, she had recovered the
shock, and said, with the preLtiesi and most good-
natured smile, " No bad — me no bad." You mean,
thought I, that you are not hurt, but your words are
true in every sense. You decidedly are not bad ; I
never met a more charmmg little creature in my life.
I expressed, as best 1 could, my horror at the accident,
and my delight that she was not bad, and hiving set
her on her saddle, this time she did not give me the
whip. I escorted her to her house, felt very much in
love, and went home to the Consul's.

After a sojown of six weeks in this delightful
country, Fred and I became anxious to turn our face to
the East. It was nearly a year since I had received
one syllable of news fi'om England, and we both hoped
to find a packet of letters waiting for us in California.
An excellent opportunity offered itself for our
departure. A fast-sailing brig, named the "Corsair,"
was to sail in a few days for San Francisco. The
captain was an Englishman, and had the credit of
being a boon companion and a good caterer. Julius
would not go with us. He wished to visit some of the

•MS

DECIDE ON LEAVING.

other islands, and hud taken his passage in a small
schooner bound for Owyhee.

The great volcano, Monna Roa, in this island, is the
largest in the world, and but that it would have
delayed us at least another month to have seen it, I
should have felt ashamed to leave the Hawaian group
without having made a pilgrimage to the death-place
of Captain Cook, and climbed the burning mountain
which is close to it. Of sight-seeing, however, we had
had our fill, and what small amount of travelling
energy remained to me I determined to t*eserve for my
disagreeable stay, as I anticipated it would be, in the
gold regions.

CHAPTER X.

Farewell to the Tropics. — Arrival at San Frr4i.i;i»co. — Refln'-tions non extant. —
Reclaimed Letter. — Eldorado lintel, — Excellent Cuisine. — The Judge and
tlio Major. — Englisii Gentlemen and English Blackguards. — Trumps venui
Fingers. — A Californinn Hell. — Sacramento, — Ljnch-Law. — "Jim was a
Britisher." — Geographical liocation of i>itany Bay. — Captain Sutter.— Reform
and Revolution. — Yanlteo ' Smartness.'— The Coachman's Story. — Voyage
Homewards. — Conclusion,

On the — Febmary — a Friday, by the way, for
the captain said all the lucky voyages he had ever
made begun on that falsely-censured day — we set sail
in the "Corsair," and steered, for the first time for
many months, with our backs to the west. Julius
remained on board till we were five or six miles from
the land, when, with a parting bumper of champagne,
we drank success to each other's future wanderings,
and said "Farewell!" The breeze did not carry us
more than three knots an hour, and it was nearly
dark before the familiar hills and valleys in the neigh-
bourhood of Honolulu faded from our sight. Many
times, as I leant over the tafFrail of the brig, straining

350

ADIEU TO WOAHOO AND THE WYIIEENES.

iiiy eyes at the shore, I thouglit to myself — Beautiful
tropics ! beautiful nature ! graceful palm-trees ! in-
genuous savages ! warm seas ! and sunny climes !
when — when shall I sec you again ? All my reminis-
cences of my iiative country, all my I'osolutions never
to leave it more, vanished before the wish to retimi,
— to set foot on that distant white sand, to see the
pretty face of the wyheene who had taught me " the
customs of her country," to be where nothing was
cold and chilly — ^not even hearts !

Oh ! Woahoo ! If you were within reach of six-
penny steam-boats, what a place for . . . . You

woidd not be Avhat you are, though. But you're not
within reach of a sixpenny boat! Thousands of miles,
and many days of sea-sickness, perhops, must be got
over before any one can possess himself of your
channs. As far off, you are, as many another happy
place. Well ! so it is. The bee that makes the
honey bears poison in her sting ; the rose has thorns ;
and any other old and appropriate simile you please ;
but sure, what is easily got at, that is really worth
the getting ? Not the Sandwich Islands !

Some people dislike a sea voyage. They complain
of sameness ; and, though their stomachs be not dis-
ordered by the motion, they hate shi .) smells, creaking

ADIEU TO WOAHOO AND THE WHYNEENES. 351

beams, and rattling noises of ropes. Everybody that
has ever travelled, and ever written anything about
his travels, has rj)t forgotten to say something about
sea voyages. Therefore, not wishing to run counter,
T conform to the received custom. It is not to be
expected, however, that any new ideas can be coined
on so old a subject ; but, as nothing is new imder the
sun, there can be nothhig extraordhiary in saying or
writing what has been said or MTitten a thousand or
two times before. This, I conceive, is sufficient
apology for the most fastidious. For myself, con-
science does not accuse me, be a thought ever so
threadbare, if it was the genuwe residt of the most,
common cause. It is a hamdess gratification to
register or to recall it. So thinking, I mahitain that
any person taking the trouble to keep a i. urnal
(under what hindrances none but \\\^^, who keep
them know), has an undoubt««l right, since such
persons perform, on the whole, for puhhc amusement,
to indulge in part for his imn private satisfaction.
Now, though it can hardly inter -T anv one to know
the minutiae of an idle five minutes, as they happen to
a person they never heard of, lounging on the quarter-
deck of a brig they also never heard of, occupying a
few feet of water in the midst of an ocean which they

352

SAN FRANCISCO.

care much less for than they do for the puddle in the
road ; yet these same five minutes so often recur to all
in like situations, and did so often recui- to me in the
present one, that, without any intention of being rude,
I shall just ****** Ccetcrn desiint.

It is not quite three weeks since we left the Sand-
wich Islands. The voyage is considered a short one,
and here we are lettmg go the anchor in the udy of
San Francisco. What an astonishing number of
vessels there are going out, coming in, loading, and
unloading ! How magnificent is the bay ! — one
cannot see from shore to shore. The toAvii. too — why
it looks as big as Liverpool. The day is rather wet,
but it is impossible to stop on board. We cannot
say that we are in California till we have landed ; so
to the shore we go. How shall I begin to describe
what I saw? The place has all the characteristic
featm'es of an American town. Evciything has the
appearance of being new. The streets are paved with
planks ; and the people are busy, bearded, dirty, and
heterogeneous. Yet there is something decidedly
Californian about it. Perhaps it is the gambling-
houses, perhaps tlie gold in the shop windows,

perhaps . But here is a letter I wrote ; it is the

best description I can give. Unknown to me till long

LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. arj.'J

afterwards, it was published in the TIhh's news-
pa})cr. Had I written it for that purpose, I should
probably have expressed in} self with more eare ; as it
is, it was merely intended for the eyes of a private
friend, and, without design, things were set down as
they came uppermost.

So many books, so many letters, concerning
CaUfornia have appeared before the public Avithin the
last two years, that I will not venture to trespass on
their patience now, either l)y an historical sketch of
the country, or by a dissertation on its political con-
dition, o\- by an idle exposition of my own specula-
tions. The more enlightened reader I am incompetent
to instruct; the general reader, if I may judge by
myself, will^be as well sntisfied with a simple account
of the common events of a CaJifortiians every-day
life, from whicii he may form the truest conceptions
of the state of society, as with a complex analysis of
State laws, or a dry list of tariffs, {)ort dues, taxes, &c.

" Ban Praiidgcn, Califvvnia. Mun-'i 1 ■Ith.

" It is now nearly a month since I arrived in San
Prancisco. During that time I have been busily
employed, visithig all the different and most important
mines in California. After the time and labour that

r?54 CALIFOENIA.

it had cost me to reach this »'ouiitry, I fully expected
that nothing could repay me ; but I am agreeably
surprised, and consider that I am now amply rewarded
for all my ti »ables. Even as a common-place tra-
veller, I find in California a wide field of interest.
The strange conglomeration of society ; the practical
results of an experimental system of self-govcrmnent ;
the peculiarities of a constitution, framed not so much
on the models of others as from indi^ idual causes and
local necessities, are things which no other part of the
world affords such perfect specimens of as California.
Political economists and funded proprietors speculate
on its immediate influences ; while philosophers, on
the other hand, prognosticating its ultimate destiny,
look upon this country as the means of advancing
civilisation and propagating Christianity from the
eastern to the western shores of the Pacific. Without,-
howevcr, indulging in any such lucubrations, with
which I have but small concern, I content inyself Avith
the ordinary avocation of gratifying curiosity and of
behig amused.

" On entering the bay of San Francisco, the first
object that strikes one is the enormous mass of
shipping. London and Liverpool are of course
beyond comparison, but with the exception of these,

CALIFORNIA.

355

and perhaps of New York, I know of no other port
which .:ontams so great a innnl)cr of vessels. Tlie
town itself is etpialiy remarkahlc. When one reflects
that eighteen months ago a few scattered tents were
the only habitations in the place, one looks with
amazement on the city, which is daily increasing, and
which already numbers over 30,000 inhabitants.

" The site of the toAvn is a steep sandy hill, but
Yankee ingenuity is rapidly removing this incon-
venience by levelling the hill and tilling up the bay.
The greater number of the buildings are u])on piers
stretching into the sea, and a lot of some forty feet
square of " water surface" is worth about 5000 dollars.
In the very centre of the town arc several large ships,
dismasted and roofed over. Their strange-looking
broadsides arc decorated with the signs of different
shops ; and as they form a portion of the regular
street, one wonders, at first, what eccentric charitcters
have taken the trouble to paint their houses with two
black stories an 1 a white one in the middle. Already
there are several theatres, a French Vaiuleville, and
one Italian Opera ! And notw ithstanding the strong
national ])ropensity of the people for business, one
of the principal features of San Francisco, and indeed
of every town in California, is the gambUng-houses.

356

CALIFORNIA.

They are never closed, and they are always full. Tt
would be difficnlt to give yon a correct idt>a of these
infernal regions, or to describe the strange scenes
which daily take place in them, l^ictiu'c to your-
selves enorinons rooms gaudily decorated, filled \\'\\\i
some 400 or 500 people of all classes, Avithout
distinction of age, rank, or sex. * Monte,' ' faro,'
'ronge et noir,' are the favourites among a variety
of games. The tables are covered with money, and
surmounted with ornamental lumps of gold and bags
of gold dust. At one end of the room is, of course,
a bar, at the other is a band. The excitement of the
play, th( effects of the liquor, the influence of the
music, and above all the confusion of languages, is,
as you may imagine, what the Yankees call "some."
Eveiybody is »iined. from the ruffian who transfers
his treasures fi-om the mine to the gambler's table,
to the frail fair one who relieves the gambler's jacket
lor the benefit of her own. Four times since T have
been here — I wonder that it has happened no oftener
— differences of opinion, concerning, no doubt, points
of honour, have been sunnnarily discussed and as
summarily decided in those places by virtue of a
' five-shooter.' Three times out of the four the
smrivors experienced the pleasui'es of that prompt

SACKAMENTU. 357

decision which they had so wannly advocated. In
less than six lionrs after the (piarrels the law of
Judge Lynch had done its work, and order was again
restored.

" Leaving San Francisco, I took my passage in a
steamer to the city of Sacramento, a large town, about
LjO miles up the river whicli bears the same name,
and situated at the extreme point of inland navigation.
A day or tsvo at this place sufficed to disgust me
with a rejjetition of the scenes I had witnessed in
San Prancisco. Accordingly, by the first opportunity
that oii'ered I took my de[jartm'c for ]\larysville, which,
from its vicinity to the various branches of the Sacra-
mento river, is tlie grand ik'pot for ail the miners of
the wet ' diggins' in Northern California, and conse-
quently a point (/f uiter(,'st to a sightseer. After
spending a pleasant evening A\ith the editor of the
Marysville Herald' — who, by-the-by happened to be
a genuine cockney, serving tlie city of Marysville in
the several ca[)aeities of editor, play-actor, concert-
giver, and auctioneer — I started the next morning for
the ' Forks of the Yuba.' A few hours' ride along
the S])ins of the Sierra Nevada brought me at last
within sight of the gokl-hunters. Two or three
huiulred men were at work upon what had formerly

3jS

THE WET DIGGINGS.

been the Led of the river. Hy the law ot'imitiial agree-
ment each luiner is entitled to a certain portion ot" this
' bar,' as it is called, in which the gold is found.
And as the precious metal cannot in such diggings
be separated from the soil without the process of
washing, the allotments are measured by thirty feet
on the bank of the river, and so far back as the bed
extends — thus givhig to each man his allowance of
water. (jlenerally speaking the original ])ossessors
have long since made their Ibrtunes, and sold their
claims to others tor large or small sums, according
to the richness of the soil. The result is, that these
claims are now fallin!? into the hands of small
companies of three or four, Avho, in their turn, will
sell then), as inmiigration increases, to companies of
six or eight, and so on, till the individual gains are so
small that the price of labour falls and the ca})italists
become the sole proprietors of the mines. Where
three or four together possess a 'claim' each attends
to his own department of the labour — one loosens the
soil, nnothev fills the barrow or cart, a third carries it
to the river, and the fourth washes it in the ' rocker.
If the dust is very fine, (piicksilver is afterwards
used to collect it from the black sand. For the most
part the mining is above ground — /. c, the depth of

THE WET DIGOINOa. 359

the soil is soldoiu riiuro than six feet above the rock.
In some i)laccs there are what they call ' coyote
digguis :' tliese ])i'0(luce the same kind of dust, and
are worked like coal mines, having shafts sunk some-
times as dccj) as sixty feet.

" The average weight of gold made by each miner
throughout the ' wet diggins,' or diggings where Avater
is used for washing the gold, is nearly half-an-ounce, or
seven dollars a-day. To give you an instance, however,
of the amoimt of metal in the soil — which I had from
a miner on the spot : — Three J'higlishmen bought a
'claim' ;3() feet by 100 feet, for 1400 dollars. It
had been twice before bought iuid sold for consider-
able sums, each party who sold it su})posing it to be
nearly exhausted. In three weeks the Englishmen
paid their 1400 dollars, and cleared 13 dollars a-day
besides for their trouble. This ' claim,' which is not
an unusually rich one, though perhaps it has been
more successfully worked, has produced in eighteen
months over 20,000 dollars, or 5000/. worth of gold.
After all one had heard of the dissipated habits and
questionable characters of the miners, I was prepared
to ' rough it ' durhig my visits to the mines, and Avlicn
I found myself about to pass a night in a small tent
designated the ' miners' home, in which over forty of

fll'iO TIIR DHY UinOlNGS.

these gt'iitlcineii were nsseinbled to drink, board, and
lodge, I cannot sa;/ that T anticipated nindi pleasnre
in tlie prospect of sleeping foin' in a bed, or being at
the ' riide mercy ' of a ' crowd,' of whicli 1 was thv
ordv one unarmed, l^ut, strange to sav, 1 never saw
a more orderly congregation, or such g(X)d Ijeliaviour
in sncli bad company, and tlie only thing that disuirbed
my peace was that one night the bunk in which I
slept, not being snfficiently strong to support its
nnusnal bnrden, yawned in the middle, and deposited
its contents on the ground. T returned to San
Francisco, and thence I went to the ' dry diggins ' in
the south. The conntry is here truly beautifnl, and,
nnlike the plains of the great valley of the Sacramento,
is exceedingly fertile, and possesses unlimited resonrces.
Even in the present drought its valleys are watered by
frequent rivnlets, while thronghout, the arid natnre of
the soil, condjuied with the uncertainty of the seasons,
will prevent the Sacramento district ever becoming
agricultural. Its mineral wealth is, perhaps, the
greatest in the world. The quartz rock, which is
siq)pose(l to be the only permanent b(jurce from which
gold will e^ entually be deriv(!d. extends north and
sonth for more than a degree-and-a-half of latitude ;
and the quicksilver mines, now rendering from 3000 lb.

TlIK DRY DIGdlNOS. 361

to lOOO 11). of iiictui dailv, tlircntcn to dcstrov tin;
|)ivvioiiis monopoly of the Kotiiscliilds. At Mariposu,
in the district of tlie {|iiart/, u society possessing
several ' cli.inis ' liave cstablisjjed, at a great expense,
inaeliinery for erusliing tlie rock. They employ thirty
men, whom they pay at the rate of 100 dollars each
H-month. This society is now making a clear gain of
1500 dollars a-day. This will show you what is to
be expected \vhen ca[)ital sets to Mork in the country.
It is difficult to say M'hat the average j/'oportion of
metal is to the proportion of (piartz; but taking only
the richer ])ai't, which is all they work at present, the
gohl may he re})resented by 15 or 20, and the quartz
by 100, making about one-fifth metal; and it is
ascertained that one-fifteenth will pay. So nuieh
for statistics. I might enter more fully into detail,
or I might enlarge considerably on general views ;
but I think that yon have had pretty nearly enough
of the one, and I know that you are better able than
1 am to perform the rest for yourself. In the limited
space of a letter, it is difficult, where so nuich may be
said, to say what is interesting and to leave unsaid
what is not interesting ; and more pai'+ienlarly in
writing to vou, it is no easv matter to make state-
ments which, however new lo most people, you most

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U IIIIII.6

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80

(716) 872-4503

362

EL DORADO HOTEL.

probably are already conversant with. The interest,
however, which must be felt concerning California,
and the little that is at present known about it, juust
be my apology for so great a trial of yoiu* patience.
Imagine how anxious I am to hear some news when I
tell you that my last letter from England is more than
nine months old ! I have relinquished the idea of
South America, and purpose returning by the States
instead. On the 15th, I leave this, by steamer, for
Acapulco ; from that point, I shall ride through
Mexico ; and {D. V.) before the end of the summer I
shall be again in England. And you may be sure I
shall not be sony when I can exclaim with truth,
' Jucundi adi labor es !' "

Fred and I, while at San Francisco, lived at the
' El Dorado,' the first hotel in the town. We had
one bed-room between us, and generally dined at tlie
table (J!h6te. As in all American hotels, there were
foiu" meals a-day — breakfast, luncheon, dinner, and
supper. The dinner was as good a one us could be
got at tile Astor House in New York. Plenty of
everything, clean, and well-dressed. Venison, grizzly
bear, Sandhill crane, snipes, quail, wild fowl, &c.,
were standing dishes in the game department. The

THE TABLE d'hOTE. 363

beef and mutton always good, and, in short, all
excellent fare. For our board and lodging we paid
eight dollars, not quite 2/. a day; wine of course
is extra, and neither very good nor very cheap. As
there is always a rush for places when dinner is
annourced, we used to secui-e, beforehand, a couple
of seats at one end of the table.

Amongst our regular neighboiu^ were a judge and
a major ; — be it observed that probably every tenth
man in the room was either one or the other ; — the
first of whom we were introduced to, the last had
introduced himself. The Judge was a man we always
referred to for any information that we wanted on any
subject whatever. He Avas a shrewd, intelligent,
hawk-eyed lawyer ; had travelled in Europe, had seen
a good deal of the world, and had acquired no
small amount of miscellaneous information, which he
was alwfiys ready to produce whenever occasion
demanded it. There was nothing remarkable in his
appearance excepting his nose and eyes; by nature,
he was the quintessence of a Yankee, but not of the
most otfensive kind ; and I firmly believe if he had
only been born a gentleman it would not have been his
fault if he had not made a tolerable imitation of one.

The Major — 1 must beg pardon for describing him

364 INTRODUCED TO THE MAJOR.

— was the reverse in all things of his friend the
judge. The major teas a remarkable man, no less
so in appeai'ance than in character. Tall, upright,
mustachoed and stiff-necked, he looked like a soldier.
Corpulent and exceedingly florid in complexion, he
looked like a major. His being slightly drunk before
he sat down to dinner, looked as if he was enjoying
his leave ; and a very seedy green cut-away, fastened
with one brass button over a much stained yellow
waistcoat, looked as if he was just the man to do it.
" Major," said the Judge, " allow me, sir, to present

you to tliL'se two English gentlemen. Mr. B ,

Major M ; Mr. C , Major M ."

" Gentlemen, your most obedient. You observe.
Judge, I had already done myself the honour of
making then* acquahitance, but I had not the pleasure,
you observe, of knowing their distinguished names.
Gentlemen, will you confer upon me the pleasure of
taking wine with me. You observe," said the Major,
twisting his nmstaclioes, one side up, the other down,
" you observe, if there is a proud moment hi my life,
tliat moment is," sipping his wine, and passhig his
hands through his hair, " that moment is, gentlemen,
when I find myself taking wine with an Englishman.
Yts, sir, an Englishman," here an oath, " that is, an

A MAN OF HONOUR. 305

English gentleman, is the finest thing in the world,
sir, — finest thing in the world. But, sir, if there is a
human being that I hate and despise, — you observe,
— that being, sir," smashing a wine-glass, "is an
English blackguard. I, gentlemen, — as every man in
the American army knows, — am a man of honour. You
observe — this sort of thing, sir," poising his arm, and
pulling an imaginary trigger, — " yes, gentlemen, — for
gentlemen I see you are — so long as you remain in
California, or in the United States, if ever you should

be in want of a friend. Major M is that man."

" But, Major," said the Judge, " perhaps these gentle-
men may not require a friend ia the sense which you
refer to." " Sir," said the Major, " they are men of
honour, and as men of honour, you observe, there is
no saying what scrapes they may get into. ! romeniber
— it can't be more than twenty years ago — a brother
officer and I were oppor ^nts at a game of poker.*
That officer and I were most intimately acquainted. —
Another bottle of champagne, you nigger, and fill
those gentlemen's glasses. Very fine that, sir, — I
never tasted better whie," said the Major, as he tm*ned
his mustachoes up and poured the goosebeiTy down.
" Where was I, Judge ? Ah ! precisely, — most

* A sort of wliUi.

366 THE ODD TRICK AT WHIST.

intimate acquaintance, you observe. I had the highest
opinion of tliat officer's honour — the highest possible
opinion," with an oath. " Well, sir, the luck was
against me — I never won a point! My partner
couldn't stand it. 'Gad, sir, he did swear. But my
friend — another slice of crane, nigger, and rather rare;
come, gentlemen, help yourselves, and pass the bottle
— that's what I call a high old wine, you observe.
Where was I, Judge ? Ah, just so. — Well, my friend,
you observe, did not soy a word ; but took it all as
coolly as could be. We kept on losing ; they kept on
winning ; when, as quick as greased lightning, what
do you think my partner did, sir ? May I be stuck,
forked end up, in a 'coon hole, if he didn't whip out
his knife and chop off three of my friend's fingers.
My friend, you observe, hallood loud enough. ' You
may halloo,' says my partner, ' but (an oath) if you'd
had five trumps, sir, (an oath,) you'd have lost your
hand ' (an oath). My intimate fiiend, you observe,
had been letting his partner know how many tiaunps
he had by putting out a finger for each one ; and
having the misfortune, you observe, to hold three
when my partner found him out, why, sir, you
observe, he lost three of his fingers."

" I think," said the Judge, " I have heard the story

TALKING OP POKER.

367

before ; but, excuse nie, I do not sec exactly what
relation it bears to these gentlemen and your offer to
serve them." " That," said the Major, " if you will
give me time, is exactly what I am coming to. —
Nigger, bring me a dozen cigars. — The sequel is soon
told. Considering my duty, as an officer, a friend,
and a gentleman, I cut my friend and shot my
partner for insulting him — and if, you observe, these
gentlemen will honoiu* me with their friendship, I shall
be most happy to do the same by them." " To shoot
those who insult them is no doubt performing as much
as any friend could expect ; but, from what you said,
I infer that you will also be happy to cut them. Did
I understand you rightly ? " " No, you (an oath)
did not, sir ; and, what is more, I do not wish to be
misunderstood. Do you understand that, sir? "
" Oh, perfectly," said the Judge. " Shall we finish
the bottle, and adjourn ? " " By all means, sir, by all
means ; and talking of poker, suppose we take a peep
at the faro table. Gentlemen," turning to us, "if
you wish to see a man that can play at faro, I am
that man."

Not more than twenty yards from the door of the
El Dorado, is a gambling-house of the same name ; it
was larger and, generally speaking, more crowded

368

THE KINO WINS.

than any other in San Francisco. In one comer of
the room was a fnro table, at the moment we entered
unoccupied. Tlie cards pai'ted out on this table weje
cleaner than elsewhere ; the cloth was less greasy, and
the playing pack was always shuffled on a neat little
pad of blue velvet. Evidently this table was only
resorted to by high players. The hellite, and he was
the very model of a hellite, slightly bowed as we
passed. " Take a chair, gentlemen." " I can't afford
to play high," said the Major. " As you please, sir ;
try the white chips to begin with." " Give me twenty
then," said the Major, throwing down fom* pieces of
five dollars each. " Now, sir, I'll go the half of them
on the pot, and the other half on the ace and queen."
The hellite lit a fresh cigar, and began to shuffle.
What wonderfiU legerdemain in that shuffling; so
neat, so quiet. Eleven times the same process was
gone through, and, click, in they go to the tin box,
and no more handling of the pack ; they are as snug
and safe from cheating fingers as if they had never
been made.

The hellite turns three large diamond rings on his
left hand, leans a little forward in his chair, and draws.
Nine, four, — nothing done. Nine, — king. " King
wins," said the Major ; " this takes in the king."

A GENUINE HELLITE. 369

" Not this time, sir." Six, seven, stands off. Ace —
five, and the heUite takes one lot of the chips. " I '11
donble the stake on the pot," said the Major, " If
you please, sir." Seven — ace. " D — n," said the
Major, " and I backed the ace a minute before."
Fifty dollars behind the nine. Nine loses, seven wins.
" On the turn, by G — d ! Come, sir, let rae shuffle
those cards if you please." " Certainly, sir." " There
— ^now if I don't win this deal I'll leave off." Just
one little shuffle the hellite gave the pack, then placed
them in the box. " One hundred dollars," said the
Major, taking a green chip with 100 dollars marked
upon it. " One hundred dollars on the pot, and
another hundred," taking another green chip, " on the
ace — single turn." Ace loses, five wins. The green
chip is restored to the place from whence it came.
Seven loses, king wins, and the other green chip is
also rest— ed to the place from whence it came. " A
lucky turn for the table," said its keeper, without
looking the least concerned. " And a d — d unlucky
one for me, sir ; that makes nearly three hundred that
I lose, and that's all the money I have in my pocket.
I'll have one more deal if I die for it." " We don't
give credit, sir ; anywhere but in California I should
be most happy ; " and the hellite turned his rings.

B B

370 THE IIELLITK AND THE MAJOR.

arranged the chtjcks, and lit a fresh cigar. " Sir,"
said the Major, after having twisted his moustache till
one corner nearly stuck in his eye and the other

touched his chin, " Sir, T am Major Mc B , you

obsei*ve, a man of the strictest integrity and of the
most undoubted valour ; now, sir, if any man came to

me and said, ' Mc B , my boy, I want a thousand

dollars,' may I be hanged, sir, but I would instantly
give that man the thousand dollars — if I had them,
you observe. I should be ashamed," — " Very likely
you would, sir ; but I confess my liberality is not so
gi'eat as yours. Would not your friends lend you a
few hundreds ? " ' O certainly," said the Judge, " I
think I have five hundred in my pocket-book ; here
they are and at your sei^vice." The money was put
down in one stake upon the favourite six, seven, and
eight. The cards were shuffled exactly eleven times,
and the hellite having laid aside his cigar, began to
draw. For five turns not one of the named cards
showed its face ; at the sixth the removal of a two left
a six on the top of the box. " At last ! " breathed
the Major. " I '11 parallee it ! — Turn." King loses,
seven wins. " Two thousand dollars — I '11 parallee by
G — d." Three quick turns, and the six won again.
" Four thousand. Stop a minute. Mister," said the

THE MAJOR WINS. 371

Major, " I Ml tnko a cocktail. Now you observe,
gentlemen, that it would be extremely convenient to
me to pocket four thousand dollars, and extremely
inconvenient to me to lose the eight hundred I have
staked. Another lump of sugar if you please. My
luck at the beginning of the play was as bad as ever I
saw, but my good luck, you observe, began with this
deal. Is it likely to continue or to stop? In the
course of my gambling experience, you observe, I — "
" Come, sir, shall I turn the cards, or will you take
the money?" "Don't be in such a hurry, sir; I
was going to remark, that in the course of my
gambling career, 1 have always found that good and
bad luck go by fits and starts ; they run in veins, you
observe, and when a man has worked out one, he is
sure to hit upon the other." " Press good luck, sir,
and you must win." " Mister, I parallee — turn."
For the first time in the course of the play I saw the
hellite's hand slightly tremble ; he bit his lip to
prevent him from breathing too hard ; he drew the
card hairs' breadths at a time. Three turns and
" nothing done. " Stop," said the Major ; " there are
too many cards out to win on three, so go on the
seven bar the turn." Five — seven — "wins," exclaimed
all the lookers-on, and the tium had been barred.

B B 2

;J72 THE MAJOR LOSES.

Alas ! poor Major, your luck was gone. Another
seven appeared to be taken down, and an eight
remained to win. If the hellite i\ad heen fingering
brass farthings, he could not have done so with more
apparent indifference than he handled the enormous
pile of ivory chips, whii i he removed from the card
to arrange in regular rows in the box before him.
The Major finished his cocktail, buttoned his coat, and
walked away.

On my way to Marysville I stopped a couple of
days at Sacramento. The weather was begimiing to
be cold. I had been rambling all the morning
through the town, and was just returned to my
iiotel, and sat ruminating over a large stove in the
bar-room, thinking Sacramento about the most com-
fortless place in the world. In the course of my
walk I had observed a crowd collected round a large
elm tree in the horse-market ; on inquiring the cause
of this assembly, I was told that a man had been
lynched on one of the lower boughs of the elm at
four o'clock this morning. A newspaper containing
an account of the affair lay on a chair beside me,
and, having taken it up, I was pemsing the trial,
when a ruffianly-looking individual internipted me, with
" 'Say, stranger, let's have a look at that paper, will

keadin' about JIM. ;i7;j

you?" "When I luivt; done with it," sold I, and
continued reading. Thi.s auswer would have satisfied
most Christians endowed with any moderate degree
of patience: hut not so the ruffian, lie leant himself
over the back of my cliair, put out hand on my
shoulder, and With the other htM the paper, so
that he could read as well m I. " Well 1 guess
you're readin about Jim, aint you?" " Who's Jim?"
said I. " Him as they hung this mornhig," he an-
swered, at the same time resuming his seat. " Jim
was a particlar friend of mine, and I helped to hang
him." " Did you ?" said I—" A friendly act— What
was he hanged for?" "When did ^ou come to
Sacramento city?" "I only arrived this moniing,
and have not yet heai'd the particulars of this
case." " Oh ! well ! I reckon I'll tell you how
it was then. You see, Jim was a Britisher, that
is, he come from a place they call Botamy Bay,
which belongs to Victoria, but aint exactly in the old
country, I believe. When he first come to Californy,
about six months back, he wasn't acquainted none
with any boys hereaway, so he took to digging all
by hisself. It was up at Cigar Bar whar he dug,
and I happened to be a digging there too, and so it
was we got to know one another. Jmi hadn't been

374 QETTINQ QUIT OP TUB BLACKSMITH.

here a fortnight before one o'the boys lost about
three hundred dollars that he'd made a cacht of.
Somehow suspicions fell on Jim. More than one of
us thought he had been digging for bags instead of
dust, and the man as lost the money swore he would
have a turn with him, and so Jim took my advice
and sloped." " Well," said I, " he wasn't lynched
for that, was he?" " 'Taint likely," said the ruffian ;
" for tiU the last week or ten days nobody knowed
whar he'd gone to. Well ! when he come to
Sacramenty this time, he come with a pile and no
mistake. And all day and all night Jim used to
play at faro, and roulette, and a heap of other games.
Nobody couldn't tell how he made his money last so
long, nor whar he got it from, but certain sure every-
body thought as how Jim was considerable of a loafer.
Last of all, a blacksmith as lives in Broad-strfeet, said
he found out the way he done it, and asked me to
come with him to show up Jim for cheating. Now
whether it was that Jim suspected the blacksmith, I
can't say, but he didn't cheat, and lost his money in
consequence. This riled him very bad, and so, want-
ing to get quit of the blacksmith, he began to quarrel.
The blacksmith was a quick-tempered man, and, after
B good deal of abuse, could not keep his temper any

LYNCH LAW. 875

longer, and struck Jim a blow on the mouth. Jim
jmnped from his seat, pulled a revolver from his
pocket, and shot the blacksmith dead ou the spot.
I was the first man that laid hold of the murderer,
and, if it had not been for me, I believe the people
in the room would have torn him to pieces. ' Send
for Judge Parker,' shouted some. ' Let's try him
here,' said others. ' I don't want to be tried at all,'

buid Jim ; * you all know, d d well, that I shot

the man ; and I know, b y well, that you'll hang

me. Give me till daylight, and then I'll die like a
man.' But we all agreed that he ought not to be
condemned without a proper trial, and as the report
of the pistol had brought a crowd to the place, a jury
was formed out of them that were present, and thi'ee
judges were elected from the most respectable gentle-
men in the town.

«' 'in

The trial lasted nearly a couple of hours. Nobody
doubted that he was guilty, or that he ought to be
hanged for murder ; but the question was, whether
he should die by Lynch law, or be kept for a regular
trial before the judges of the Criminal Court. The
bcvst speakers said that Lynch law was no law, and
endangered the life of every imioceiit man ; but the
mob woidd have it that he was to die at once. vSo as

ill

376 SELF-EXECUTION.

it was just then about daylight, they carried him to
the horse-market, set him on a table, and tied the
rope round one of the lower branches of a big elm
tree. AU the time I kept by his side, and when he
was getting on the table he asked me to lend him my
revolver to shoot one of the jurymen, who had spoken
violently against him. When I refused, he asked me
to tie the knot so as it wouldn't slip. * It aint no
account,' said I, ' to talk in that way. Jim, old
fellow, you're bound to die ; and if they didn't hang
you I'd shoot you myself.' 'Well, then,' said he,
' give me hold of the rope, and I'll show you how
little I care for death.' He seized the cord, pulled
himself in an instant out of the reach of the crowd,
and sat cross-legged on the bough. Half a dozen
rifles were raised to bring him down, but, reflecting
that he could not escape, they forbore to fire. He
tied a noose in the rope, put it round liis neck, slipped
it up till it was pretty tight, and then stood up and
addressed the mob. He didn't say much, except that
he hated them all. He cursed the man he shot ; he
then cursed the world ; and last of all he cursed
himself, and, with a terrible oath, he jumped into the
ail*, and with a jerk that shook the tree, swmig back-
w^ards and forv-urds over the heads of the crowd."

'V'lllJ >\'

BOTANY BAY WHICH BELONGS TO VICTORIA. 377

I believe the narrator went on talking about him-
self j but, I confess, I paid no further attention to
his story. The rude picture he had drawn of his
desperate friend filled my mind with strange reflec-
tions. "You see Jim was a Britisher," and spoke
good broad-provincial English, too, no doubt. And
so I traced his sad career from his happy English
home. Happy home ! perhaps, though, it was not a
happy home — perhaps he had been one of a large
family — a wanting, poverty-stricken family in a manu-
facturing district — and Jim had found no means of
keeping body and soul together, but by shooting
other people's pheasants, and getting his bread and
water thereby in an English jail. Perhaps, too, when
he came out of jail, he did not find bread any easier
to be got at than before he went there, and so shot
pheasants again, and went to jail again. And for
the third ofience a bench of magistrates, with " fair
round bellies with good capons lined," thought change
of air would best suit Jim's complaint, and so the
scoundrel got to " Botamy Bay, which belongs to
Victoria." Alas, poor England ! do you iimi out
many of your sons in this fashion ? Do many of
them get to " Botamy Bay," and then get elsewhere,
and then get hanged for knaves and scoundi*els, as

378 AN INTELLIGENT POLE.

they get to be ? They tell me that it is so ; and lo !
here is one, a veritable specimen of such things. But
they say 'tis cant to talk in this manner. There must
and will be food for the gallows supplied at all times,
and by all countries. Had Jun been called Jacques,
and a Frenchman, dr'ibtless I, for one, should not
have been blue-be-devilled about England, and so let
it pass. The reverie was an expensive one. I had,
in the meanwhile, burnt a hole in my boot.

We met the renowned Captain Sutter on board the
Uttle steamer that took us up the Sacramento River
to Marysville. The good old Dutclmian drove us to
his farm, and there plied us with German salads and
German hock. An intelligent Pole was there, and
talked of dissolution of the Union, and of making
California a free and hidependent State. Where the
deuce are intelligent Poles not to be met with ? and
when don't they talk of dissolution, of revolution, of
education, of freedom, of refonu and all the rest of it ?
Poor devils, they who have enjoyed so much of these
things, and know from experience the advantage of
them ! You are quite right Mr. Pole ; England is the
happiest country in the world, and iiicontestibly the
land of truest liberty. You cannot say you admire
an hereditarv aristocracv ? Pardon me, vou have lived

POLITICAL ARGUMENTS. 379

many years in America ; the idea is somewhat Yankee.
A monarchical form of government is the real consti-
tutional fonn for an English government. But without
an aristocracy the throne cannot stand ; and that aris-
tocracy must not be a nominsJ one. Look at the French
revolution of '48, and remember the 10th of April
in England. The military were not called out to do
executive murder. Public opinion, and the inherent
conservative principles of the educated classes, were
the constable and the cannon-balls which knocked
disorder and violence on the head on that day, and are
ready to do the same again on every day until it is
found that reform must be, and that not by sudden
violence and outrage. Be assured of it, sir, there
is an unbroken chain of patriotic sympathy uniting
all classes in England ; tear away one of the hnks,
be it ever so rusty and apparently useless, the whole
fabric falls to pieces — and then ! Why treat Ireland
as we do ? why not educate her people ? Bless your
heart, sir, what other country ever voted a subsidy
of twenty millions for its colonies, and where will you
find such clamorous readiness to advance and provide
means for education as in England ? Certainly we
are willing to take advantage of the great experiment
of this great country — but would you have us not

380 POLITICAL ARGUMENTS.

take warning by the fate of others ? What availed
Poland's ill-timed struggles for liberty ? How think
you the Frenchman likes his military despotism?
" Pshaw !" said the Pole, " the Frenchman is von
sliild ; de American von shiant." " Granted, but when
you complain, my dear sir, of our law of primogeniture
and entail, and speak of the glorious privileges of the
American subjects, you contradict yourself in very
ignorance of the matter. What privilege have you
that we have not. That the meanest subject is eligible
to the highest office ? That your pig-driver may one
day be President of the United States ? What is the
result ? There is little respect for those in power, and
a feverish ambition to take their places infects the
mind of almost every American. Bancroft says with
truth, ' It is the prerogative of self-government that
it adapts itself to every circmnstance which can
arise. Its institutions, if often defective, are always
appropriate, for they are the exact representation of
the condition of the people, and can be evil only
because there are evils in society.' But what says
Sidney Smith ? an English divine of whom you
may have heard, sir — Sidney Smith says, ' The
object of all government is roast mutton, potatoes,
claret, a stout constable, an honest justice, a clear

POLITICAL ARGUMENTS. 381

high-way, and a free chapel.' Now, excepting the
claret, which is apt to give people the stomach-
ache, and the roast mutton, which happens to be
rather scarce in England just now, I ask you, sir,
what government does more towards providing these
requisites than our English one? Governments are
fallible things, sir, very. We think if our govern-
ment educates our people, and protects them with
good wholesome laws, that our government docs
pretty well. Beyond this we expect oiu* people to
do something for themselves. If they will marry and
get millions of children before they have any possible
means of providing for these children, or without the
least reflecting how enormously they thereby increase
the number of moutht, and decrease the rate of wages,
it is not the fav H of our government. It is the fault
of the people themselves — not to mention the want of
Mississippi valleys, and big back settlements, whither all
the surplus of your people are drafted to, as soon as they
find roast mutton getting scarce elsewhere." "Ah!
I see you fery much fond of your country." " Did
you ever meet an Englishman that was not?" said I.

We talked a good deal about CaUfornia. The Pole
was convinced that California would be the first State
in the Union to declare her independence. It was

88-2 PROPHECIES.

ridiculous to suppose, he argued, that a large and
populous country like California would long be ruled
by a goverment 3000 miles off. What did the Senate
or the Congress at Washington know about California ?
The interests of a State on the Pacific and one on the
Atlantic had nothing in common. The delay in
getting answers to questions beyond the jurisdiction
of the State Laws was a serious inconvenience.
Already they began to feel severely the disadvantages
of being no better than a colony. In the instance of
a war with Europe, the port of San Francisco must be
blockaded because the government of Washington
might take it into their heads to sanction the invasion
of Cuba. Now they would not object to free trade.
In a short time slave labour might be necessary ; and
what part could they take if the Northern and
Southern States split, one fighting for abolition of
slavery, the other to get rid of protection ? " And
you, of course, will fight for the dissolution ? " I asked.
" Of course he would." " Anything for a change,"
and a Pole will be sure to have his finger in the pie.

One of my companions in the vehicle that took us
doAvn from Marysville was rather an amusing specimen
of a Califomian. He was a roughish fellow to talk to,
but well to do in the world, at least respectably

A "smart" fellow-passenger.

388

dressed, and was evidently treated by the driver and
an occasional acquaintance that we passed on the road
with that degree of deference which in this enlightened
country is only conferred upon the "smart." He
began the conversation with me by asking how much
I would take for the studs in ray shirt, and upon
being told they were not for sale in the first place, and
in the second that no amount would buy them, as
they were given to me by a friend, he answered, that
considering they were a present, and cost nothing, I
ought to be the more ready to "trade," and that I
might make my mind easy upon one subject, which
was, that if he had a chance, and he meant to look out
sharp for one, he would steal them as sure as he was
bom. Such a declaration might have startled a person
unused to the open and candid nature of such rascals,
but the genus is so common, and is moreover so
thoroughly appreciated anywhere in America, that I
was not the least bit more astonished than if any other
foreigner had ofiered me a cigar ; but, merely taking
the remark as a corapli.iient to my studs, I buttoned
my coat, that he might not be tempted with the
opportunity, which I knew he would not fail to profit
by if it occurred.

This little incident introduced a spirited discussion

384 HOW TO GET ON.

on the topic of " smartness." The Yankee was con-
vinced that " Every man for himself and the Devil takt;
the hindmost," was the only motto for a wise man in
this world, and, as an instance of the wisdom of this
dogma, he mentioned his own case ; showing how from
the lowest dregs of society he had risen to affluence ;
how he had used no other weapons to combat against
the greatest reverses of fortune but the mother-wit that
had taught him — that the easiest method of avoiding
difficulties was to put your hands into the pockets of
your friends. Every man, he argued, would cheat his
neighbour, if he knew how. What folly it was then
not to be beforehand with the rest of the world, and
cheat them in advance. The mistake people made
was, that they foolishly substituted the word " cheat,"
in the place of the word " smart." What was a crime
with us Britishers was a creditable act with an
American. And if a man's intellects were not given
him for his own advantage he did not see for whom
else they could be given. " Yoiun wam't given you
for the adwantage of the man you sold the stage to, I
guess — ^was it coachman ?" This appeal was made by
a dirty-looking passenger to the driver. " I reckon
not — that was a smart job from beginning to end —
that was, ' returned the coachman. " What was it ?"

SMARTNESS OP THE AMERICANS. .'$85

I asked ; ** I suppose you stole tlie coach from the
man first, painted it a difterent colour, and then got a
friend to sell it to him for a new one ?" '' Not so bad
as that neither, stranger. What I did I don't con-
sider nothing out of the way of business ; it's what
any fool might do, and not be smart at that either.
You see, when I first got to San Francisco, I had no
more than a respectable suit of black, and five dollars
in my pocket. I wanted to get to the diggings, but it
would have cost me a deal more than five dollars to
fit out for that expedition, so I made up my mind to
stay where I was till I could afford to go. One day
when I was walking up to the square, thinking how I
should get fny living without working to death for it,
I saw an old friend of mine driving a mule-team. I
asked him how he had managed to get money to buy
the mules. ' They're not mine,' says he ; ' they belong
to a gentleman of whom I hire them for a small sum.'
' And what,' said I, ' did he see in your ugly face to
make him so charitably inclined ?' ' He saw these gold
spectacles, which I al^^•ays mean to wear in future, as the
best friends I ever had. I was like you when 1 landed;
I had but five dollars in my pocket, and three of 'em I
gave to a Jew for these specks. If they had been silver
they would never have done the job. Well, 1 mounts

c c

bbO .SMAUTNK.SSJ OF THE AMKUICANS.

tlie specks, and off I goes to the elmiituble old hoy of
wlioin I had heard talk, and represented myself to
him as a medical goutleman that had left a large
family, and come out here to give tla; siek the benefit
of my practice on purely philaiithropical motives.
Of course, 1 made a good circumstantial story, telling
him that 1 should be glad of some easy job, as 1
wasn't accustomed to hard manual labour, and as
soon as 1 had earned enough to live u})()n, should go
and practise at the mines. He lieard my story to
the end, looked at me, and then at the gold rpccks,
ami I am sartain sure if it had not been for those
specks, and those specks had'nt been gold, he never
would have believed a word 1 said.' ' I wish tlien
vou woidd lend tliem to me, friend ?' ' I won't do
that, but I will lend you something better. I must
go to Sacramento for a couple of days, and until I
retmii, yon shall have the loan of this mule-team.'
Here's luck, thought 1; this team can't be worth more
than ten dollars a day to their owner, and if I sell them,
they can't be worth less than 500 dollars to me ;
so into the market they shall go." " And you stole
the mules ?" we asked. " I sold them leastwise, and
borroAved the money." " And you were not hanged
for it ?" " Not that 1 know of," said he ; " but to

HMAUTNESH OK TIIK AMEKIt'ANH. 'M

cut u loiij^ story sliort, and como to the inuttt'r of the
8tug(! wliicli I begun ubout ; the money timt I got lor
the mules bought me u light wagon and lour iiorses,
and I persuaded a man wiio had another team to let
me drive them in the wagon, and he was to have a
shtu-e of the ])rotits. We soon estal)lishe(l a good
business; 1 bouglit out my partner, and sold the
whole concern for just five times what it cost lue, and
a mighty good thing the man who bought the
business would have made of it, if he had not been
a-dealing with a smart 'un. But there's where it is
you see ; he wasn't smart, and I was. I went to
San Francisco, paid my friend the price of the mules
which he had natm-ally been put in prison for steal-
ing ; gave him a hundred dollars to keep him quiet ;
bought a good stage and three fast teams; came back
to San Jose, and in one week drove the old coach off
the road ; made two thousand dollars by the traffic,
and sold the whole concern again for two thous nd
more. And here I am in a fair way to become a
rich man ; have hivetited 4000 dollars at 40 pei cent.,
which, though it is uoi great interest in these times,
yet it is as safe as a mortgage on the most valuable
property in Cahfornia can nuike it. Gentlemen, as
we are at the end of the journey let us liquor."

888

VOYAGE HOME.

From San Francisco we went by steam to Acapulco ;
from Acapulco, we rode without adventure to the city
of Mexico ; from Mexico to Vera Cruz ; thence by
mail packet via Jamaica and St. Thomas, and landed
at Southampton in the middle of June, 1851.

THE END.

BRAOBlIHV ANf) r.YASf. I'ni.VTItHS, WIIITEFR , ARI..

NOTE.

In Eugland a man has no other inducement to emigi'ate held out
to him, by government, than the right to purchase land, in the colony
in which he settles, at twenty shillings an acre ; a thii-d more than
the price of colonial land in America; and he is under the obligation
of paying that sum before he takes possession of his allotment. Now,
though the claims allowed by the United States government to the
Oregon settlers, cannot be taken up since Januaiy, 1851, yet
government land is to be bought for a dollar, and a doUai- and a half,
])er acre. For one farm belonging to an EnglisUman, George Gay,
whi;h he had occupied about twelve years, and which had about
300 acres arable and almost unlimited grazing, ten thousand dollars
was olFered and refused. The winters ai'e so clement in Oregon that
no provision is made for the stock, and they are nearly as fat in
the waiter as in the su^^mei-.

If a man wishes to emigrate from England, — say, for example, to
Australia, — he pays thirty pounds for his passage out, and the same
now for each additional member of his family. Supposing that he
lias a wife and three children, his expenses amomit to at least on»-
hundred pounds. He then has to buy his land at one pound an acre,
and if he purchases no more than half the quantity that is allottetl
gratis to the American for a long term of years, he has already a
large outlay to make of ready money, exclusive of all incidental
expenditure. Now, although it is true that capitalists are wanted
in the Colonies, and a man poseessing two hundred pounds reac^y
money is undoubtedly a capitalist amongst the class who form the
bulk of emigrants, it is nevertheless true that such are not the men
who want to leave the country, nor are they wanted to be got rid of

by the country. Naturally, we ai-c aware, the enormous space in
America aflFords a convenient outlet, which we do not enjoy, to
increasing population. If an American finds the laws of his govern-
ment oppressive, or the extent of his property too limited in the east,
he packs up his household, loads his wagon, and squats himself in the
West. This he can do with very little means to pay his way. If he
has cattle or horses, they will drag him : if he has none lie yet can
walk. It is true that many thousands of miles of sea cannot be
ero8.sed at the mere cost of shoe-leather. But this very fact should
make the land cheaper when it is reached.

The question seems to be this. Does the increase in the revenue
made by the sale of land in our Colonies balance !iie cost of keeping
here thousands who, perhaps, largely contribute to the filling of
our jaUs at home, and who would probably have emigrated had they
been able to do so.

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