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■iM.

The EDITH and LORNE PIERCE
OLLECTION of CANADI ANA

^eeris University at Kingston

■■'%l

QOEEirS UMVERSrn UBMIf

V - • ,

PLEASANT PLACES

BY THB SHORK

AND IN

THE FORESTS OF QUEBEC

K
B.
<
H

IT,

AND THE

MARITIME PROVINCES,

VIA THE

INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY,

CANADA HANK NOTE COMPANY, liMiiin
MONTREAL.

L.-P rc^uar'-s "CI li's^'T

DEPRRTMENT OF RIILWMS, CfiNfiDS.

©ANADI/IN SOYERMMENT RaILW/IYS.

Intercolonial System, 801 Miles.

Kastern Kxtension System, SO

1 'rince Kdward Island System, 210

Total. . - - . 1,181

Hon. JOHN HSNRY POPe,

Minister of Railways and Canals, OTTAWA.

COLLINGlfliOOD SCHREIBER.

Chief Engineer and General Manager Canadian Government Railways,

OTTAWA.

INTERCOLONIHL SYSTEW.

(■,i;m:k.m. oi tickrs Kksidknt at Moscton, N. H.

1 ) l'( )'!" 11 NCIKK Chief Sujierintemlent.

I'. S. ARHIIHA1.D Chief Engineer.

lilOS. WILLIAMS Chief Accounwnt and Treasurer.

H A \N' 1 1 ^^NK^' Mechanical Superintendent.

(;K( ). TAV l.( )k General Freight Agent.

\ HUSKY (ieneral I'assenger Agent.

T V CtJOKK (ieneral Storekeeper.

IN CHHRCE OF DISTRICTS.

L L \V ALI..\CK, Triiro, N. S., Suiierintendenl Halifax and St. Joim District.

LAS. K. I'KICE, Canipliellton, N. H., Siii)erintendent Monctim and Ste. Klavie District.

A. K. McDonald, Riviere du Loup, I'. <J., Superintendent Ste. Klavie and (Juel)ec District.

PRINCE EDlfllHRD ISLHND SYSTEM.

Ck.nhkai. ()i ricKRS Kksidknt at Ciiari.ottktdwn

JAMES COLEMAN Sn|«rintendent.

W. T. 11U(;CAN Accountant.

TOSEl'lI UNSVVOKTH Mechanical SuiJerintendent and General Storekeeper.

INDEX.

les.

lulent.
jineer.
asurer.
indent.
Agent.
Agent,
weeper.

J'MiK.

A Proscenium Bow 7

Something about Excursions 9

Quebec 10

Levis, and Beyond 13

Rivifere du Loup 14

Forests and Streams 15

Canoe and Paddle 17

Cacouna 18

I^s Habitants de la Nouvelle-France 19

Bic ! Beautiful Bic ! 20

Rimouski 21

Little Metis 23

Metapediac l^ke and Valley 26

The Shooting and Fishing 27

Campbellton 28

Shooting 30

The Restigouche 30

Dalhousie 32

Im Baie des Chaleurs 33

Bathuist 34

A Fine Country foi" Sport 36

Miramichi 36

The Great P'ire 38

Moncton 39

Shediac 39

Amherst 42

Parrsboro 43

Truro 46

Down among the Coal Mines 47

Paoe.

New Glasgow 48

Pictou 49

Anno Murium 50

Antigonish 51

Cape Breton 52

Truro to Halifax 55

Halifax 56

Outside of Halifax 59

Annapolis Royal 61

Prince Edward Island 62

.Moncton to St. John 63

Sussex 64

Saint John 65

Rod and Rifle 69

A '.and of Health and Plenty 71

The Lower St. l^wrence 72

New Brunswick — Restigouche 73

Gloucester County 73

Northumberland County 74

Kent County 75

Westmoreland County 75

Kings County 76

Saint John County 77

Nova Scotia — Cumberland County 78

Colchester County 79

Pictou County 79

Antigonish C'ounty 80

Halifax County 80

Prince Edward Island 81

)istrict.
)istrict.
)istrict.

endent.
untant.
keeper.

3oao?aD

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Paoe.

Salmon Fishing on the Metapediac, P. Q 2

Quebec "

Rivifere du Loup '5

Causapscal '7

Bic, Lower St. I^wrence 21

Grand and Petit Metis ' 24

The Restigouche Salmon Club House, Metapediac 27

Mill Stream Metapediac 27

Sugar Loaf Mountain near Campbelllon 29

Salmon Fishing on the Restigouche, N. B. 3'

Folly Viaduct 45

Coal Mining 48

Falls of the Tartague River 5 '

Whycocomach, on Bros d'Or Lake, C. B 55

Intercolonial Railway Station, Halifax 57

Intercolonial Railway Station, St. John 65

Cantilever Bridge, Falls of the St. John River, St. John, N . H 67

Rod and Rifle 7°

A PROSCENIUM BOW.

II
«5

»7

24
27
27
29

3»

45
48

65
67

THAT which we call a preface by any other name might tell us much. To be candid
at the outset, this is really a preface ; but the glittering bait of another title has been
iaftixed, in order to induce the public to read it.

A book intended for the information of tourists •- usually either a mass of dry facts
and figures, or a collection of elaborate lies. In the following pages an effort has been
made to find a medium between the two, and t( xvoid alike the monotony of the statistical
bore and the mendacity of the colonization agent. This book is not intended for a
cyclfipedia or a gazetteer. The historian and statisticiin were abroad when the work was
begun, and up to the hour of going to press had nut returned. Their works are for sale
by the leading publishers, and are more reliable than any epitome can pcjsibly be. No
family should be without them, but the traveller can suit his own taste.

What the writer has aimed at is a brief account of the country traversed by the
Intercolonial Railway, and of some of the chief places of interest along the line. The
design is to give the pleasure-seeker, the fisherman and the sportsman an idea of the places
where their respective wants may be supplied. This work is necessarily a condensation
of material which would suffice to fill a volume ; and as there has been barely space
enough to tell the truth, the statements may be accepted as tolerably correct. For a like
reason no attempt has been made to become enthusiastic, and the scenes described will
usually be found to more than realize the accounts of their various attractions.

As comparatively few people ever read a preface, the foregoing remarks would be
omitted were it not that there are some who invariably do read a preface, and who would
be annoyed if a book did not contain one. If this be found lacking in the elements which
a preface ought to possess, a more lengthy, solemn and conventional one will be prefixed
to the next edition.

VV. KILBV REYNOLDS.

^i^vi^^^^^5S»m^^l<^tSSatmm

SOMETHING ABOUT EXCURSIONS.

AMEIRICA is a land of humorists, and the exceeding humor of its people shines forth
in their habits of life. Life was made to be enjoyed, and they enjoy it whether
the sun shines or not. Not that they are an idle people, for they are notoriously the
reverse, but that they pass through ordeals which would test even the jollity of Mark
Tapley. and profess themselves delighted amid their afflictions. In other words, a man
of business will work hard for ten or eleven months of the year, and then, with the idea
that he needs rest and recreation, will put himself and his family through a course of
sprouts fearful to contemplate. This course of sprouts is humorously termed a fashion-
able pleasure excursion. It consists in a season of preparation and packing, of a setting
forth " to join the innumerable caravan," and of several weeks of wretched unrest amid
the dust, heat, crush and confusion of some i)opular resort where it is the correct thing
for everyone to go. There is no little humor in all this. They seek freedom from
restraint, and go to a vortex of fashion ; they seek quiet, and are mingled in a Babel ;
they seek rest, and at the close of each day are ready to drop with fatigue. Gasjiing
amid crowds on the hottest days, packed in overflowing hotels during the sultry nights,
swindled by hackmen, bored by guides, |)ested by humbugs, tormented by flies — crushed,
wilted, worried, driven Iialf mad — they, with infinite humor, term all this, pleasure I

.Vmid such a scene, while lying half-stifled in a small but high-priced cell, near the
eaves of some large but well crowded hotel, the wearied traveller kicks the drapery of his
couch from around him and lies down to troubled dreams. Amid them come visions of
a lanrl wiiich lies by the sea and is fanned by cooling breezes from the ocean, In this
land are green hill.s. sliady groves and fertile valleys. From the distant mountains the
cr\ stal brooks come leaiiing with the music of gladness, and join with noble rivers in
wiiose clear waters dwell lordly salmon and scarce less lordly trout. Near at hand are
forests, .as yet so little disturbed that the moose, caribou and bear, now and again visit
the farm-yards of the adjacent settlements, and gaze in bewildered suri>ri.se at the man
whose hand is raised to slay them. Along the shore, for hundreds of miles, lie land-
locked harbors where even the frail bark canoe may float in safety, yet ui)on the waters
of the o;ean : and upon the smooth sand beaches of which even a child may venture into
the buoyant salt-water and fear not. In this country is scenery at times of sweet pastoral
simplicity ; at times of sublime grandeur. It is a land where civilization has made its
way. and > ot not marred the beauty of Nature. It is a country where the traveller sated
with an excess of conventional " excursions " will find much that is novel, much that will
charm, and much that will ever remain to him as a sweet remembrance of a pleasant clime.

"Ah!" sighs the dreamer, "would that such a lot were mine. Such places there
may be, but where are they? .My guide books tell not of th.en. To find them, one
must abandon the comforts of daily life, go far beyond reach of daily mails and telegrams,
become isolated from the busy world, and live hundreds of miles from the confines of
civilization.

Not so. Voii Iiave perhaps been down the St. Lawrence as far as Quebec, from
which, as the Ultima Tliule of your excursion, you returned to your home. Take your
map and trace that line wliich leads from Quebec down the St. Lawrence, across to
New Brunswick, and down its coast to Nova Scotia, where it ends at the City of Halifax
To the east and west arms rcacli out to Pictou and St. John, and another branch
traverses Prince Edward Island. This is the Intercolonial Railway, one of the most
substantially constructed and best equipped lines in the world. It runs through
hundreds of miles of just such a country as has been mentioned. Pleasure and sport
may be enjoyed in numberless places and yet the traveller will be within the reach of
daily mails and the telegraph, and may live like a prince at a very moderate outlay.
It is the land for which you have sighed ; try it and be convinced Ho, for Quebec and
the ])rovinces by the sea.

QUEBEC.

We are within the walls of one of the most notable cities of America — one of
the most famous places in the world. There are cities which are more fair to look upon ;
there are some which the mere pleasure seeker esteems more highly ; and there are many
which have distanced it in the march of progress. There is but one Quebec, — old,
quaint and romantic, — the theatre which has witnessed some of the grandest scenes in
the dramas played by nations.

The story of Quebec is recorded in history, but no historian can do justice to the
theme. From the day when the tleet of the intrepid Cartier cast anchor on these shores,
down to the hour when the last gun was fired in anger from yon batteries, the story is a
romance wiiich fiction cannot surpass. What scenes of hope and fear, of deep patience,
imdaunted courage and unflagging zeal, have these old rocks witnessed. What dreams of
ambition, what bold projects for the Glory of God and the honor of France, have here
been cherished. Hither, from across the sea, came heroes. Some sought fame, and
found nameless graves ; some grasi)ed for wealth, and miserably perished ; while some,
animated solely by a zeal for the cross, won martyrs' crowns in the distant wilderness.
For a century and a half the banner of France waved on this rocky height. Priest,
soldier and citizen had followed the "star of empire " to the western world and found
themselves in another France, of which Quebec was to be the Piris, and within the vast
territories of which should arise a mighty nation. Here was the seat of the power of
France in America ; within these walls were held the ("ouncils of State; and from these
rocks went forth the edicts for the temporal and spiritual guidance of the people.

For nearly a century and a quarter the English fiag has floated over the citadel, but
the language, customs and religion of France remain. The Vandalism of modern
improvement has not spoiled the features of Quebec. Some of the old historic buildings
are gone, but many remain. \\'o may still view the solid masonry of two centuries ago.
We may stand where the ])eople of the Ancient Capital stood to praise God for deliverance
from the invaders : we may linger amid the shadows of the old cathedral, among rare old
paintings by master hands, and think of the days when these walls echoed the 'I'e Deums
for the victories of France. We may roam through queer, crooked streets, and enter
(juaint old houses, in the dark corners of which we almost look for ghosts to come to us
from the by-gone centuries. Everywhere may be found sometiiing to interest a mind
given to contemplation. Of all the French settlements in Canada, Quebec best retains
its ancient form. The hand of Time has swe|)t away the ruins of Port Royal, and the
grass grows over what was once the well nigh impregnable Louisbourg; but Quebec
remains, and will remain, the Niobe of the cities of France in the western world. Here

lebec, from
'I'ake your
;, across to
of Halifax
her branch
jf the most
ns through
e and sport
he reach of
rate outlay.
Quebec and

ica — one of
look upon ;
Te are many
lebec, — old,
5t scenes in

istice to the
hese shores,
le story is a
;p patience,
at dreams of
e, have here
t fame, and
while some,

wilderness.
;ht. Priest,
1 and found
hin the vast
he power of
. from these
pie.

citadel, but

of modern
ric buildings
nturies ago.

deliverance
ong rare old
e 7t' Deums
s, and enter
I come to us
rest a mind

best retains
yal, and the
but Quebe(-
orld. Here

li!

lives Europe in America ; here the past and the present meet together ; here the seven-
teenth and nineteenth centuries jostle each other in the narrow streets.

Kveryone visits the citadel, and everyone is impressed with the wonderful natural
advantages of the position. Had Montcalm remained within these walls, the courage of
Wolfe would have been displayed in vain. As it was, fifteen minutes changed the destiny
of New Fnince, and made two names inseparable and immortal. Ascend a bastion and
the panorama of the St. Lawrence and its shores is simply superb. Here one could sit
for hours

" And come and come again,
That he might call it up when far away."

'I"o see the places usually visited outside of Quebec one may employ a carter to advan-
tage. There are plenty of them, and some of the local guide books give them a high character
for honesty, hut the safe course is to make an agreement as to price before starting, which
agreement is arrived at by a species of Dutch auction, commencing at the figures named
by the carter and bidding down until a fair price is reached. The more carters there are
present the more interest is attached to the proceedings, and the better chance there is of
a good bargain. The men as a rule, are cheerful and obliging, so much so, that when
you trust to them as guides they will tell you more than the historian and geographer
ever dreamed of in their philosophy. If stopping at the St. Louis, Russell House or
Florence Hotels — all good houses — carters can be procured at the offices.

Outside of the city you will drive to the Plains of Abraham and picture out the scene
of that eventful morning in September a century and a cpiarter ago. The inscription on
one side of Wolfe's monument is as graphic and expressive as any sentence in the English
language ; " Here died Wolfe victorious ! " It speaks volumes in the compass of a
breath ; it is sublime in its brevity.

Many are the pleasant drives around Quebec, varying from one mile to many in
length. Many, also, are the toll-gates which bar the way until five cents' worth of open
sesame procures a passage through. Some travellers consider these a nuisance, but all
get accustomed to them at last, and feel lonely when they get back to the city, where there
are none. So long as they exist, no enemy can steal a march upon the Ancient Capital.

Let those who love a scene of tranquil beauty go at the close of a day in summer, or
autumn, to the Dufferin Terrace and linger during the long twilight of the evening. The
heat and glare of the day have passed away, and a gentle breeze comes from the river.
The last rays of the setting sun are gilding the hill on the shores beyond, while the line
of the distant mountains is blending with the sky. For miles and miles the eye follows
the river as it Hows in silent grandeur to the sea. Distant sails seem like the white wings
of sea birds, while " day in melting purple dying," lulls the mind into a dreamy calmness.
The shadows deepen. The lights of Levis begin to cluster ; the houses in the Lower
Town are becoming more ghostly in the gathering darkness ; a sound of soft music
comes from an open casement. We are on historic ground. Here stood the stately
Castle of Si. Louis, where for two hundred years the French and English rulers held their
court. Its glory departed amid a whirlwind of fire. Far below we can trace the outline
of a street. It is Champlain Street. How black it looks ; it reminds us of the darkness
of that winter morning, long ago, when Richard Montgomery and his men rushed
through it to their death. F^ery where around us have the horrors of the war been felt ; and
to-nigiu all is so peaceful that the thought of war seems out of harmony with the scene.
'i'he hells from the shipping in the harbor sound musically through the tjuiet air j the
plaintive notes of the bugle are home to us from the citadel ; and the flash and roar of
the evening gun tells of night fallen upon the ancient Capital.

the seven-

Poets have sung of Quebec, but it is a poem of itself which no language can express ;
its memories linger in the mind, like the sweet remembrance of harmonious music heard
in the years long passed away.

LEVIS, AND BEYOND.

Across the broad river to Levis, and we are ready for our railway journey. If the time
can be spared, a drive should be taken on the heights, for it is from these that Quebec, its
harbor, the river and the surrounding country can be seen to best advantage. Here, also,
can be seen additional evidences of the solicitude of England for the safety of her
colonies. Fortifications, of which the cost is reckoned by millions, command every point
of land and water for miles. Peace has reigned here since they were built, but they are
ready for the evil hour, should it ever come.

Having seen what there is of interest around this part of the St. Lawrence, including
the Chaudi^re Falls, the traveller surrenders himself to the comforts of the Intercolonial.
From Pointe Levis Station, where connection is made with the Grand Trunk Railway
and w'ilh the steamers of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company from Montreal,
a ride of one mile brings him to Levis Station, where passengers from Quebec City
and the Canadian Pacific Railway take the train. The railway then skirts the shore
closely for a few miles till Harlaka, the point of junction with the Quebec Central
Railway, is reached. As the train gradually rises along the cliffs from the level of the
water to this point, a magnificent panoramic view is had of Quebec City, the shipping
in the harbour, the Falls of Montmorenci, the Island of Orleans and the great expanse
of the River St. Lawrence. Passing, onward, the eye catches sight of one after another of
the typical French villages, where the habitants live in peaceful quiet, little disturbed by the
advent of strangers. Some of these villages are prettily situated and possess local traditions
of more or less interest. Among these is Riviere Quelle, which takes its name from the
tragedy of which Madame Houel was the heroine, in the days when the Iroquois roamed
upon the shores. The Abbe Casgrain tells the story under the title of " La Jongleuse,"
and mentions that the tracks of snow shoes, imprinted on the rocks of the beach, are to
be seen defying the action of wind and wave. The imprints of human feet and hands in
the rock were formerly visible, but have now disappeared.

Ste. Anne, one of several places of that name, is the seat of a convent of Grey Nuns
and a college wiiich will accommodate about 300 students.

Kamouraska is reached from St. Paschal Station, and is the first summer resort
of note after leaving Quebec. A drive of about five miles from the station brings one to
the village, beautifully situated on the shore. 'i"he native population is about 1,200, but
the summer months see a large increase in the number of residents. Good accom-
modations may lie had at the St. Louis Hotel, as well as at private houses. The place
is well patronized by sisitors during the season, and is growing in favor. Governors
Morris and Mactlonald, and other well-known public men, have been among those
seeking recreation and rest in this ]>leasant nook. The natural advantages, as a watering-
place, are admirable. i'he beach is a fine one and well sheltered. Bathing here is
a luxury. .\ little distant from the shore are a number of picturesque islands, around
which pleasure boats glide, anil u|)on which are the resorts of l)icnic jjarties. The
situation ot Kamouraska is all that can be desired.

Twenty miles below is the village of Notre Dame du Portage, deriving its name
from the tact that the iKMtage across to New Brunswick, a distance of about 26 miles,
was formerly nuide from this point. I'he village is six miles from Riviere du Loup
by rail, and connection is also had by a good carriage road. It is a retired spot, resorted

;!i

to by families who are fond of a t;uiet vacation, bnt having a fine beach and good
bathing is well worthy of a more exten led Hime. 'I'hose who have passed their summers
amid its beauties have much to say in its praise.

rivierf: du i,oup.

Here is a place not to be passed by under the impression that its chief beauties are
to be seen from the car windows. It is a village of considerable importance, with a well
established rejnitation as a summer resort, and is in many respects a most convenient
])la(:e for the tdurist. It is a centre from which one may go to various ])oints, either on the
St. Lawrence or back into the woods where game and fish abound, making this the
head-cpiarters for the deposit of luggage and the receipt of mail matter. The full title of the
place is Riviere du Loup, en l>as, the affix being given to distinguish it from another village
of the same name, en haut. As the two are two or three hundred miles apart, the dis-
tinction has not always been very clear to strangers. 'I'his is however, the Riviere du
Loup to which letters are sent in the absence of any qualifying words. The portion
of the village near the water is termed Fraserville, in honor of the Fraser family, in whom
the Seigneurial Rights were vested, after the conquest of Canada in the last century.

situated near the confluence of the Riviere du Loup and the St. Lawrence, and
being directly on the shore of the latter, the place abounds in piciurestiue scenery of all
kinds. Near the railway the smaller river makes a descent of more than 200 feet,
by a succession of falls which make their way through a gorge over which high and
precipitous rocks stand sentinel. In the vicinity. " hills peep o'er hills." clothed in all
the varying hues of green, while toward the St. Lawrence the open country, sprinkled
with well-finished houses, makes a pleasing contrast to the rugged aspect of the land
which lies in the rear. Upon the shore a glorious ])rospect is open to the view. Here
the estuary begins to widen in its journey to the sea. and the mountains on the northern
shore, a score of miles away, stand out in bold relief against the clear blue sky. Upon
the waters just far enough away to "lend enchantment to the view," are the white-winged
argosies of commerce, bearing the tings of every maritime nation. .-Vt limes, a long,
low shape on the waves and a long, slender doud floating lazily away marks the path of
the ocean steamship. Nearer the shore are smaller craft of all sizes and shapes — fishers,
traders and seekers after pleasure. If one longs tf) join them, a boat is at hand and soon
is dancing on the gende billows, while the sea-birds skim the waters in their circling
flights, and the solemn-eyed louf'-marin rises near at hand, vanishes and rises again, as if
sent by Neptune to demand the stranger's errand. It was from these creatures, say
some, that the rivL'r derived its name, rather than from the ill-visaged wolf of the forest.
It is more pleasent to think so. at all events.

The waters around us abound in all kinds of creatures, great and small. The chief
of these is the white whale, the Bei'iiga Borea/is, which is usually, but erroneously, termed
the white porpoise. Its length is from fourteen to twenty-two feet, and each carcass
yields something over a hundred gallons of oil. This oil, when refined, is worth about a
dollar a gallon, and as there is no scarcity of the creatures, the fishery might be made a
very valuable one. The halibut and sturgeon come next in order of size, after them
the salmon and then all the small fish common to this latitude.

Returning to the shore, if the day is bright and warm, the long line of smooth
beach, abounding in cosy nooks and corners, invites a bath. The adjective " warm " is
the correct one for this part of the continent in the summer, it being a relative term which
denotes an absence of cold without an excess of heat. It is never ht)t here. The days
when coats, collars and cuffs become a l)urden and humanity wilts in the shade are

lil

h and good
eir summers

beauties are

with a well

convenient

Mtlier on the

ing this the

II title of the

other village

art, the dis-

■ Riviere du

"he portion

ly, in whom

:entury.

ivrenct, and

enery of all

,n 200 feet,

h high and

othed in all

y, sprinkled

of the land

liew. Here

he northern

sky. I'pon

I'hite-winged

nes, a long,

the path of

)es — fishers,

id and soon

K'ir circling

^ again, as if

eaturcs, say

r the forest.

'I'he chief
iisiy, termed
ach carcass
)rth about a
t be made a
. after tlicm

of smooth

" warm " is

! term which

The days

shade are

unknown on these shores. The rays of the midsummer sun are tempered by gentle
breezes, which invigorate the system, and a gambol amid the waters tauses a degree of
exhilaration which once enjoyed is not scon forgotten.

Among the more prominent people who have spent the summer months at Riviere
du Loup, may be mentioned Lord Dufferin. It is not recorded that he spoke of the
scenery as " the finest in Canada," though there are about twenty-five different places of
which it is claimed that he made that remark, but he did express himself pleased with the

.1^ place. The views are charming, the walks
and drives varied and beautiful, the bathing
facilities are excellent, while the shooting and
fishing in the vicinity afford ample recrea-
tion to the enthusiasts of the gun and rod.

Steamers call at the wharf daily, during
the summer, and afford an admirable chance
for seeing the places of note on the northern
shore, chief among which are Murray Bay, Ta-
dousac and the famed Sagiienay River. The
latter is one of the most remarkable places in
America — " a tremendous chasm, like that of the Jordan
Valley and the Dead Sea," says Bayard Taylor, "cleft
for sixty miles through the heart of a mountain wilder-
ness." Its waters, black and Stygian, have vast depths
everywhere, while the wal's of rock tower aloft
in majestic gloom which impresses the most
thoughtless mind with a deep sense of awe.
LTp this strange river one may ascend to Chi-
coutinii, the head of navigation, about sixty-
five miles from the mouth, calling at Ha ! Ha !
Bay. Tadousac, at the mouth of the river, is
an old and historic settlement, and contains the ruins of the oldest church in Canada.
This was another of the favorite resorts of Lord Dufferin and a number of others,
Americans as well as Canadians, have handsome summer residences here. Murray Bay,
about ninety miles below Quebec, is another spot were the wild and majestic scenery may
be enjoyed. Numbers resort there during the summer, from various cities of Canada,
many having villas built for their use during the season.

Returning to Riviere du Loup by the steamer, one may in certain conditions of the
atmosphere, observe a singular mirage among the islands between that ])lace and Kamou-
raska, an occurrence which must have been regarded with no small amount of super-
stitious awe by the Indians of the earlier days. All the Lower St. Lawrence is full of
beauty and abounds in historical reminiscences and traditions. Those who have taste
for such things should read the writings of Le.Moinc. Faucher, Casgrain, Tache and
Buies, all of which are worthy of perusal.

¥ ( ) R E S T S AND S T REAMS.

Taking Riviere du Loup as a centre, the sportsman has a field only limited by his
time and inclination to shoot and fish. Nature has been prodigal in her gifts, and
though Inilians and their white brothers have made sore havoc among the creatures of
the wo(jds, in the past, enough remain to emjjloy the hunter for generations to come. In
one respect, however, an unbridled license to kill has had its effect. Once the moose,

RiviHRK Of i.orr.

king of tlie North American forest, roamed these woods in vast herds. Had they been
shot only for tlie put poses of food, or in the \vay of legitimate sport, they would have
been plenty at this day. Unsparing hands spread destruction among them for the sake of
gain, and drove them to more distant haunts.

The caribou, game fit for any sportsman, are still to be found in large numbers.
The season for them, in this Province, extends from the first of September to the first of
February ; and they are to be found almost anywhere between St. Alexandre and Cainp-
bellton, within a short distance of the railway track. In some places this distance would
be two, and in others ten miles. Of comse, skill, experience and good guides, are
necessary to find them at all times ; but a sportsman who imderstands his business, and
who goes to the rigiit locality, need not be surprised if he bring down as many as twenty
in a fortnight's hunt. To accomplish this, he must be prepared for his work and be
ready to stand some fatigue. From Riviere du Loup he can set out in a variety of
directions for grounds which are known to be good, and where caribou are particularly
abundant. One of these is in the direction of 'I'emiscouata Lake, 38 miles distant, and
over an easy highway. Here is a sportsman's paradise, amid scenery of the most beautiful
description, the forest abounding in game and the lakes and rivers teeming with fish.
Here one may live tor weeks, and never weary in his absence the busy haimts

of men.

All the forest to the south of this part of the railway affoiu.- good sport. The
sportsman can take his choice of going a long or short distance. The back country of
Maine can be easily reached from St. Alexandre, or one may go twenty miles from
Riviere du l.oup and find the St. Francis River, and follow it to the St. John. From
Elgin Road, or L'islet, the head waters of the Restigouche and Miramichi may be reached.
All these are in the midst of hapity hunting grounds.

Some of the best caribou hunting is to be had among the Shickshocks Mountains,
in Gaspe. This is the land of the caribou. In the depths of the wilderness, amid
mountains nearly 4.000 feet high, anil surrounded by scenery of the most wild and rugged
character, is an abundance of rare sjjort. This has been one of the resorts of Lord
Dunraven, who has, indeed, hunted in all parts of the country, meeting with excellent
success. On his last hunt, he started as many as forty-one caribou in three days. Of
these he and his |)arty killed fifteen. H. R. H. Prince Arthur during his visit, in 1869,
engaged in a successful hunting exjjedition in these forests. I'hey have also been visited
by Count Turenne and other eminent sportsmen.

Other game may be had fi)r the seeking. Bears simietimes make their appearance
when least looked for and often make lively episodes in the sportsman's journey. In
August 1879, Hon. W. W. Thomas, of I'ortland. Me., had a narrow escape at one of the
Squalook Lakes, not far from the Temiscouata. If he had not tloored the bear, the bear
would have floored him, but the gun proved true and a l)rilliant victory was the result.

Partridge are very numerous. When a weak or la/y man goes after them he has to
take some one wiih him to carry the load home. So plentiful are they near Riviere du
Loup, that Win. Fraser. Fsi)., the jiresent Seigneur, shot as many as fifty-four in one day,
killing fourteen of thein without moving out of his tracks. To him who has carried a
gun mile after mile for a whole day and been i)roud to exhibit one unfortunate bird as his
trophy, this may ap|)ear like a tough story. Nevertheless it is true. The man who goes
after jiartridges in this vicinity does not have to sneak home by a back road to avoid the
chaff of his neighbors for his bad lui:k. He stalks along with pride in his face and a load
on his back, anil is only \exed that the spe( tacle is too common to excite wonder.

Around the shores, geese brant and ducks of all kinds are found in immen.se flocks

»7

in the fall and spring. Isle Verte and Kamouraska are, in i)artii;ular, favorite resorts for
this kind of game, and hundreds may l)e shot with ease.

Much that has been said in regard to the hunting in the vicinity of Riviere du Loup
will apply to the country along the next two hund.cd miles, or until after the boundary
of New Brunswick has been passed. Riviere du I.oup has not been singled out as the only
place, but simply as a sample of wiiat very many are like as regards their surroundings,
and to avoid a reiteration cf the same facts in connection with each place. A similar
course is taken in regard to some of the features of the fishing.

Tliis is a land of fish, and such fish 1 One may eat them at every meal on his
journey through the country. Halibut, salmon, herring and smelt from ihe St. L.awrence,
and salmon, tuladi, sea, brook and lake trout from the waters that are tributary to it.
Salmon are found in nearly all the rivers, and the majority of the streams are leased by
the Government to individuals. It is not diffi('ult, liowever, for a stranger to obtain per-
mission to fish for them. 'I'ront are found in all the rivers and lakes and are free to all
comers. 'I'he usual size of those in the lakes is from five to si.\ pounds ; the river trout
run from three to four jiounds. .Ml the trout of this region are very " gamy." and afford
abundant sport. In the lakes is also found the tuladi, which seeips identical with tlie
togue of Northern Maine and New Brunswick. Si)ecimens have been caught weighing
as much as forty jiounds each, or as large as a good sized salmon The average size in
Temiscouata Lake is 27 pounds It has indeed been confounded with the lake salmon
of Switzerland, and with others of the salmon family of Kurope, but it appears to be
identical with no one of them. It is usually very fat, and very reserved — not to say lazy.
It lurks and lies in the deep waters of the deep lakes, as if given to contemplation rather
than the gratification of api)etite. For all that, it is a voracious creature and does
ai)i)roach the surface in the cool of the morning and evening. It does not rise to the fly,
but may be taken by trolling. It is good eating, though less delicate than either trout or
salmon.

Nearlv all lakes are free to fishers, for all kinds of fish.

m ^:>t^^

y^^'^%Ksk-^-' '"■

CANOE AND PADDLE.

The Intercolonial has one feature which few, if any,
railways possess to the same extent. For a distance of
several lunidred miles it is intersected by navigable, but
not dangerous, rivers. By these natural highways one may
pursue his journey far into the interior, make a short por-
tage from the head-waters of one to those of another and
descend the latter to the line of railway. .\ glance at the
nia]) will show what ample opportmiities there are for this
kind of recreation. Leaving the railwa\' and
ascending one river, coining down another and
u]i another, spending days among the lakes,
fishing, shooting, enjoying life to the ut-
most, one is as much in the wilderness
as if thousaiuls of miles away. Vet all
tiiis time he knows that, if necessary, a
i'ljw hours will bring him to the railway,
the mail and the telegrajjh — to communi-
cation with the busy wc.rld. He may
CArsAi'SCAi,. leave the railwav on the shores of the

■ ■<*"■•■■<:

St. Lawrence and make a canoe voyage to the Baie <les Chaleurs or the Bay of
Fimdy. When he arrives at his destination he will t'liul his higgage and his letters
awaiting him. The route may l)e varied and the voyage prolonged as may suit
the voyageur's taste. Particularly good fishing may be had at Lakes St. Francis
and Temiscouata and on the Tolcdi River ; but on such a trip one can tish and
hunt everywhere as he goes. In the Temiscouata region alone one may make a canoe
voyage for at least eighty miles, and if he chooses can by portaging from one river
to another descend the great Miramiclii to the ocean. Portages can be made so as to
reach any of the three great rivers of New Brunswick, the Miramichi, Restigouche or
St. John. In fact, the whole country is open to any man who can sit in a canoe and ply
a paddle.

C A C () U N A .

Rushing along on the express on a winter day one catches sight of a way station,
6 miles below Riviere du Loup. There does not ajjpear to be much of a settlement in
the vicinity, and. altogether, the attractions seem few antl far between. Strangers incjuire
if tliis be Cacouna, of which they have heard so much I Well, it is, and it is not. It is
one end of it, and serves as a foil to make the beauties of the other end the more appa-
rent when one gets there.

Cacouna is |)apilionacei)us. If the proof-reader sees that the compositor does not
murder the foregoing select adjective, the public will grasp the situation at a glance. In
the summer it spreads its wings and is jubilant ; its shores are thronged i)y the votaries
of i)leasiue ; boats dance upon the water ; the gay and festive dance upon the land ;
there is music in the air, and brightness everywhere. In the winter, it subsides into an
ordinary village ; the natives sit alongside of two-story stoves and dream of the coming
summer ; empty houses abound : and the great hotel is abandoned to silence, to dark-
ness and to Peter Donnegan.

Kveryone who says or writes anything about Cacouna considers that his inspiration
is particularly happy when he terms it •• the Saratoga of Canada." The place, has, how-
ever, an individuality which will allow the borrowed title to become extinct, and the
name of " Cacouna " is enough. This is the great summer resort of the Lower St. Law-
rence, and the ]io])ulation is numbered by thousands during the season. .\ graceful bay,
wuh a beautiful beach of gray sand fronts the village. In the rear the land rises to a
height sufficient to command a view across the broad river to where the sullen Saguenay
niakis its way through the mountains. Standing in a well-i'hosen position is the
" St Lawrence Hall " in which live hundred people can eat, drink and be merry during
their stay. Scattered along the shore are jirivate residences, for summer use. while
numerous other houses are tilled with summer boarders. The village is two miles from
the railway station, and is also a jilace of call for the St. Lawrence steamers. Cacouna
was one of the places visited by Prince Arthur, and was also visited by Lord Dufferin
while Ciovernor-deneral.

For those who wish to sjjcnd a summer at the seaside, and yet enjoy the jileasures
of socijty, Cacouna offers great attractions. Its hotel accommodation is excellent, the
bathing, boating, etc , are all that can be desired, and all the conveniences of life are to
be enjoyed, 'i'he sportsman will tind good fishing and hunting; the lovers of excitement
can find fascination in the horse-races ; while the devoutly inclined will find not only the
usual parish church, but, what is somewhat rare in thi> country, two Protestant churches
as well. Cacouna is, in all respects, a well eijuipiJed wateiing-place.

'9
LES HABITANTS DK LA N () U V E L I, P:- F R A NC E.

The railway and telegraph of the nineteenth century run through a country in which
hundreds of people are to all intents and purposes in the seventeenth century. Not to
their disrespect be this said, hut as showing the tenacity witii which they adhere to their
language, manners and customs. 'I'he ("anadian habitants are probably as conservative
as any people on earth. Where innovations are thrust upon them by the march of pro-
gress they adapt themselves to the changes ; but where they are left to themselves they
are happy in the enjoyment of the life their fathers led, and are vexed by no restless
ambition to be other than they have been. Their wants are simple and easily supplied ;
they live peaceful and moral lives ; and they are filled with an abiding love for their lan-
guage and a profound veneration for their religion. By nature light-hearted and vivacious,
they are Optimists without knowing it. Inured to the climate, they find enjoyment in
its most rigorous seasons. French in all their thoughts, words and deeds, ihey are yet
loyal to the British crown, and contented under British rule. I'heir ancient laws are
secured to them by solemn comijact ; and their language and religion are landmarks which
will never be moved. In places where the P'nglish have established themselves, some of
the habitants understand the English language, but none of them adopt it as their own.
'The mingling of races has a contrary effect, and the English tongue must yield to the
French. 'There are many Englishmen in (Quebec whose children do not understand a
word of their father's native tongue ; but there are no Frenchmen whose children are
ignorant of the language of France.

.^ traveller is very favorably impressed by the manners of the country people.
Many of them are in very humble circumstances ; books are to them a sealed mystery ;
and their circumstances of life are not such as are supposed to conduce to refinement of
manners. Vet everywhere the stranger meets with courtesy, and finds the evidence of
true politeness — not mere ceremonial politeness, but that which is dictated by sincerity
and aims at the accomplishment of a stranger's wishes as a matter of duty. Where one
does not understand the language they will take great trouble to comprehend his mean-
ing ; where he can speak even indifferent French, he can make himself perfectly at home.

The railway runs through tiie land of the French Canadian, until after the Metajje-
diac is reached. Everywhere is seen the familiar church ; no hamlet is too poor to have
a good one. .Should you seek the cure, you will find him a man whom it is a pleasure to
meet — well informed, affable and full of the praises of the '" d in which he lives. 'The
habitants have a sincere regard for their spiritual advisers, who are truly pastors to their
people, and whose lives are devoted to the well-being of their flocks. They follow in the
siejis of the pioneer missionaries, whose heroic devotion in the past must forever be
honored by men of every creed

Leaving Cacoimn, the next place of interest reached is 'Trois Pistoles, and it has a
charm for the traveller at whatever hour of the day or night he niay arrive. This consists
in the Railway Dining- Room, which is a model of neatness and has a table fit to charm
tile most fastidious taste. One does not require to be very lunigry to enjoy the viands
of this place, which need not fear comparison with any in the country. 'Trois Pistoles
village is prettily situated, and there is good lake and river fi.shing in the vicinity. Lake
St. Simon, a beautiful sheet of water, deserves particular mention. 'The name of the
village is derived either from three pistoles being originally given for a piece of land in
the vicinity, or from a man losing that sum, or from a trade with the Indians in which
that sum changed hands 'The antiquarian can choose whichever of the three traditions
seems most reasonable. There is no good authority for any one of them.

iMghteen miles more of a railway ride brings one to

BIC ! BEAUTIFUL BIC !

Vou are in the air above it when you first catch sight of the village, with its harbor
and islets, lii order to get through this part of the country, the railway had to be
carried around Bic mountain, and is in one place 150 feet above the post road. The
mountain rises over the railway again for a height of 250 feet more. A vast amount of
labor was expended on this part of the road. In some places the rock was blasted to a
dei>th of eighty feet to allow space for the track to hug the mountain side. From this
height a splendid view of the St. [.awrence is obtained, the estuary being about twenty-
five miles wide and rapidly widening below until it merges with the world of waters.
Was it not from the heights of Bic that anxious eyes watched the fleet of Wolfe, sailing
quietly up the .St. Lawrence on a fair day in June, long years ago ? Nearer it came, and
oh. jciy : the vessels carried the flag of France. The long expected succour had come
from beyond the sea. Every heart was filled with joy ; swift messengers started to carry
the glad news to ()uebcc. Suddenly the flag of the leading vessel was run down ; a
moment later and the flag of England streamed out to the breeze. It was the fleet of
the enemy with thousands of soldiers destined to conquer Canada 1 Among the watchers
on shore was a priest whose nerves had been strung to the utmost tension with joy.
\\hen the dread truth so suddenly burst upon him, Nature could bear no more, and he
fell to the earth — dead 1

Descending the mountain, Bic village is soon reached. It is one of the finest natural
watering-places on the whole St. Lawrence. The mountains are around it, and it nestles
at their feet amid the beauties of the scenery. There is more here than a mere stretch
of shores. There is a harbor in which an ocean steamer may ride, a haven wherein
vessels may hide from the wrath of the storm-king. Romantic isles lie amid the waters,
and crags of rugged beauty rear their heads around the shores. Pleasant beaches tempt
the bather ; placid waters invite the boatman ; and beauty everywhere summons the idler
from his resting place to drive or ramble in its midst. The harbor is simply charming to
one who first beholds it, and " time but the impression deeper makes." It never becomes
monotonous : one never wearies of gazing upon it.

Long ago the French recognized the value of Bic and its harbor. Here they pro-
posed to erect fortifications and maintain a naval station. England, too, found its value
as a jjort when her men and munitions of war were landed here from the Persia, at the
time of the Trent trouble. Since the completion of the railway, Bic has become better
known than before. Lovers of beauty have located summer residences in the village,
and year by year enjoy the summer breezes. Fishing is had in abundance ; and if there
were no fish, the streams winding their way among thehills, through all kinds of pictu-
resque dells, would well rei^ay full many a toilsome tramp.

No account of Bic would be complete without some reference to the story of L Ilet
au Massacre, one of the isles near the village. The tale is an old one. Donnacona told
it to Jacques Cartier on his second visit to Canada, and it has been told in a great variety
of forms ever since. The tradition is that a band of Micmacs, consisting of about two
hundred men, women and children, heard of the approach of a party of hostile Iroquti!^
and fled for concealment to the large cave on this island. The Iroquois discovered the
place of retreat and laid siege to it, but met with an obstinate resistance. Finding them-
selves unable to dislodge the Micmacs by ordinary means, they advanced behind shields
of boughs, carrying torches of bark, and by igniting all the dry wood in the vicinity
compelled the enemy to come forth. A general massacre took place, in which all the
Micmacs, save five, were slaughtered and their bones left to bleach upon the island.

'ii%

rA=

:iii

Here the narrative usually ends, but Mr. Tache, in his Trois Ligendes, gives a sequel
which, whether historically correct or not, gives a better dramatic effect and is more satis-
factory to lovers of fair-play. He alleges that all who wore in the cave were killed, and
that the five said to have escaped were despatched, at the first alarm, a part to demand
assistance from the friendly Malicites at Madawaska, and the others to act as scouts.
Twenty-five Malicite warriors responded to the summons, but too late to prevent the
massacre. They then, aided by their five allies, secretly followed the track of the Iro-
quois, and unseen themselves, dealt death among the party as it proceeded. I'he scouts
had previously removed the canoes and provisions which the Iroquois had left in the
woods, and so they marched, dying by the hand of an unseen foe and threatened with
famine ere they could reach their own country. At length they reached the open woods,
near Trois Pistoles Ri'.cr, feeble and discouraged. The band had shrunk to twenty-seven
men. Finding traces of moose they began a hunt, and were led into an ambush by the
foe, who burst upon them and killed all but .six. These were made prisoners ; one was
tortured l)y the allies in the presence of the other five. The latter were then divided,
and the Malicites carried their three to Madawaska. The Micmacs returned to Bic with
their two, and tying them with their faces to the island, put them to death with their
most ingenious torments. They then quitted Bic forever. Tradition has peopled the
neighborhood with the ghosts of the slaughtered Micmacs, now dancing on the waters,
now moaning among the crevices of the rocks, shrieking at times as with the agony of
souls in ])ain.

Hattee Bay is another delightful spot, not far from Bic. The scenery, though not
so impressive as that of the latter place, is very attractive. One of the features is a
natural terrace, and the fiicilities for all kinds of exercise and recreation are abundant.
A number oT English families reside at this place, and it has many admiring visitors
during the summer season.

R I M O U .S K I .

Every one has heard of Rimouski, in connection with the arrival and departure of
the ocean steamers. Here they call on their way out to receive mails and passengers,
and on their way in to land them. .\ branch of the railway runs down to the landing
]ilace, at the end of a pier nearly a mile long, and a steamer is employed as a tender for
the service. Lively work it is, sometimes, to get on board the outward-bound steamer
when the weather is a little rough. Everyone gets aboard safely, however, and rather likes
his experience alter it is over.

Rimouski is no common-place village, but a town of something under 2,000 inhabi-
tants, It is tile shire-town of the county and the seat of the Bishop of the Diocese.
Lawyers and clergymen are alike numerous ; business of all kinds is carried on briskly ;
and there is a general appearance of thrift on every hand. Some of the buildings make
a fine appearance, notably those devoted to religious uses. The Cathedral is a noble
structure, while ilie Bisho|)'s palace, convents, etc., are of a character in keeping with it.
The .Seminary, a tine striicuire, was, with much of value contained in it, destroyed by fire
in A])ril, iSSi. 'I'he loss, about $100,000, was largely made up by friends of education
in various parts f)f the province, and another fine building now serves the purposes of
the structure which was laid in ruins. The town, the full name of which is St. Germain
de Rimouski, is thoroughly French in its characteristics, and though English is under-
stood at the hotels, there are plenty of places of business where it is not. A stranger
will have no trouble in getting along, however, and will find the place and the people
equally agreeable. Fishing can be indulged in with good success. The Rimouski River

:;!i

is one of the noted salmon streams, and has, of course, any quantity of trout. The
scenery is fine all along the banks, up to the lake from which it flows, close to the New
Brunswick boundary. From this lake only a short portage is necessary to reach the
Quatawamkedgwick, which empties into the Reftigouche. In (he woods back of
Rimouski, sport of all kinds awaits the liunter. Caribou are abundant and both gun and
rod can be kept busy for weeks during the proper seasons. Speaking of fishing, a pro-
minent gentleman informed the writer that at Seven l,akes. about 25 miles from the town,
three men caught forty thousand trout in three days. As a man can fish, at most, for
about fifteen hours a day, this made the remarkable average of nearly a thousand an
hour. On an ojjinion being expressed that the catch was an unusually good one, and the
best rod-fishing on record, the gentleman took a second thought and remembered that it
was forty dozen, instead of thousands ; this, though less marvelous, was not a bad exhibit
either, and spoke well for the fishing of Rimouski. There are about fifty lakes, large and
small, in the county. Salt-water fishing, boating and bathing may be had on the
St. Lawrence, the shore being protected from the outside swells by the island of St. Bar-
nabe, which lies opposite the town. This island has borne its name since early in the
seventeenth centuiy. It is about two miles long, contains a small lake, is well wooded,
and is a favorite resort for picnic patties. It has its story, and Monseigneur Guay has
preserved its details in his Cliroiiiqitc ile Rimouski. An outline, with additions gleaned
from other sources, will suffice here.

The foir land of Old l*' ranee held no li£.irls more loving than were those of Toussaint
Cartier and his betrothed Louise when the new year of 1723 dawned. Just turned of
manhood, handsome in person, versed in knowledge of books and agreeable in manners,
he was the envy of the lads of his native \illage. He had long known the beautiful
Louise, and they had learned to love each other with a love surpassing the power of
words to tell. She was the daugiiter of a ricli fatiier, wlio had pledged her at an early
age to the profiigate son of his rich neighbor. Toussaint was poor, and his ])overty
became a crime in the sight of the lucre-loving old father of the love-lisi)ing Louise.
The lovers had three courses ojien to tiieni to overcome the diffi<'ulty. ( )ne was to
break llie engagement and return ail letters, rings and ]>hotographs. This would have
been dutiful on tiie part of Louise, but she failed to see it in that light. Another
course was to engage the services of some i)opular assassin and bribe a coroner's jury
to bring in a verdict of death by the visitation of Providence: and the third was to get
secretly married and go west. The latter course was adopted, and the hap|)y coujjIc
embarked for (Quebec . All went well. They reached the St. Lawrence and lay
becalmed off Rimouski. The day was line and yoinig Cartier took a boat to visit lie
St. Marnabe. While he was ashore a fearful tempest arose, and the vessel and all on
board were engulfed before his eyes. Tiie body of Louise was soon after waslnd
ashore on the island, where Toussaint buried it and made a solemn vow to live on the
lonely isle tor the remainder of his days. This vow he faithfully observed, living a
life of deep religious devotion, year after year, until his locks were silvered with age.
.\il who knew him revered him. even the birds loved him and came to 'iy:ii(\ (uit of his
hand; but his heart was broken, and he watt hed year by year pass by. counting each
as a stej) nearer to his reunion with the one of wiiose smile through life he had been so
rudely dejjrived. Forty odd seasons passed, and at length, one January mornii.g, he
was found lying dead on the floor of his hiunble .d)ode. I'he lovers were united at
last. His remains were buried within the old < hurch of Rimouski, and to this day his
name is iionored as that of an holy man.

There are other versions of the story. Some of them omit all reference to the

love affair, and make it appear that he arrived on foot and came by the way of Meta-
pediac. The foregoing is the prettiest, however, and ought to be true, whether it is or not.

Six miles below Rimouski is Father Point, so well known as a telegraph and
signal station in connection with ocean steamers, and to it there is a charming drive
along the shore. Four miles above the town is the village of Sacre Coeur, where there
is a beautiful and well sheltered beach and admirable o])portunities for boating and sea
bathing.

Soon after leaving Rimouski the St. Lawrence is lost sight of, and the road makes
its way toward the Metapedia Valley. Ste-Flavie, eighteen miles from Rimouski, is a
place of some imjmrtance, and is the terminus of the well known highway, the Kempt
Road, built at a heavy expense and so long used for a mail route between the upper
and lower provinces. Here we begin lo take leave of the French pure and simple, and
enter a country where F:nglish is spoken to a greater extent. In the midst of the
woods is Little Metis Station, not a place over which one could grow enthusiastic, but
nevertheless leading by a road of about six miles to the beautiful watering place of

LITTLE METIS.

Three score and ten years ago the Seigneur of Metis was a Mr. McNider, whose
name has such a genuine Caledonian ring that no one will imagine that he was a
Frenchman. Warmly attached to the i)lace, and fully impressed with its beauties,
there was yet one defect which grieved his heart. Nature had neither locited Metis in
Scotland nor sent the Scotch to Metis. This want he determined to luipply, and the
result was the arrival of several hundred men, women and children from Old Scotia,
'i'hese were located in several parts of the Seigneury, and aided by Mr. McNider until
their farms became adeepiate lo supjjiy their wants. Since then they have prospered,
and Metis is a nourishing farming district. What is more to the purpose of the tourist,
it is one of the most pleasant places on the shore for those who are seeking to enjoy
the summer months. Numbers have already found out its beauties, but there is room
for many more.

Little Metis is situated on the shore of the St. Lawrence, at a point where the
estuary begins to widen out so that the opposite shore is a faint line in the distance
and much of the horizon is as level as upon tiie ocean. This gives the place more of
the air of a sea-side resort than many less favored watering places, and the salt waves
rolling in upon the sandy beach confirm the impression. This beach is about four
miles long, hard, smooth and safe for bathers. On some parts of it the surf beats with
a sullen roar : yet numerous coves, sheltered from the swell, afford every security, as
well as absolute jjrivacy. to the bather. Boats, of all sizes, from a skiff to a schooner,
are available to the visitor, and if one desires to run across to the other shore he will
find safe and swift vessels crossing every day. If a i)arty desire to have a good time
and feel free and indeiientleiu. they can charter a small schooner for about $3 a day,
sec ure a good sailing master, lay in a supply of i)rovisions, and go where they please.
The St. Lawrence is between thirty and forty miles wide in this i)art, so there is plenty
of room for excursionists at all times.

( )n shore, in addition to the bathing, the attractions are abundant. First of all
there are ^ood hotels, and the \ isitor has his choice of five of them. 15oard is very
reasonalile. averaging about a dollar a day. If one i)refer a private boarding house,
he can find good accommodation (or about five dollars a week. Hesides this, nearly
every farmer has a spare house which can be hired fi)r about $60 for the season, in-

eluding water and fuel. Where families want to have a good time, free from restraint,
the latter course is the best one. The weirs furnish a plentiful supply of fresh fish,
while other provisions, including berries of all kinds and dairy products are to be had
in abundance. A number of residents of Montreal and other places have villas here.
.-Vmong them are Principal Dawson, j j fjffii| ^p-r <'f McGill College, Profs. Murray
and Dorev, Dr. Ircnholm, Mr. ,<iMrW^^^ ^ John Savage and Mrs. Redpath.

([uietly as he pleases here and
enjoyment. On Sunday
those who incline to the
Presbyterian or Metho-
dist faith can attend pla-
ces of worship of those
denominations, and du-
ring the season Episco-
l)al service is also held.
The Little Metis River
is a favorite haunt of the
salmon, which is found
there in large numbers.
Trout are found wher-
ever there is a lake or
brook. The best fish-
ing is at Metis Lakes,
the nearest of which is
about thn L' miles from
the centre of the village.
Further back is a chain
of lakes, all containing
plenty of large trout,
and all comparatively
casv of access.
CRAM) AND i-KTiT MKTis. •pji^, couutry iu the

rear of Metis is a favorite resort for herds of caribou. Cieese. duck and sea-fowl are
found all along the sliore. while partridge ;ire met with in every part of the woods.

The scenery is \arieil and attractive. One may drive for miles along the shore
and enjo'- the [janorania and the sea bree/e until weary. Inland, arc beautiful vales
with nooks and brooks anil charming bits of scenery. .\11 the farmers have wagons to
hire, and drives may be had at a small exi)ense. One of the favorite drives is to the
falls, seven miles away. Here a heavy body of water ])ours over the rocks with a
grandeur which must be >een to be apprei iated. Both Orand and Petit Metis rivers
have waterfalls, situated amid most em banting s( enes of the forest.

Last year between Soo and i.ooo tourists visited Little Metis during the season.
Enough to show that the place has attractions. l)ut not so many as to overcrowd, or to
impose the restraint incident to older and more lashionaltle resorts.

Eurthei along the shore is Matane, chiefly renowned for the abundance of salmon
and trout in the river. This also is in favor as a summer resort, and, like Metis, is a
|)ort of call for the steamers between (Quebec and the tiiilf Ports.

Leaving Metis, we leave the St. Lawrence behind us and jiuirney south to the
Metapediac Valley. I'assing Tartague. the railway which has ke])! out of the way of

•m restraint,
f fresh fish,
re to be had
villas here,
ofs. Murray
s. Redpath.
!s here and
On Sunday
icline to the
1 or Metho-
I attend pla-
lip of those
ns, and du-
ion Episco-
s also held,
^letis River
launtof the
;h is found
i numbers.
)und wher-
i a lake or

best fish-
tis Lakes,
)f which is
niles from
he village.
is a chain
containing

e trout,
parativeiy

y in the
-fowl are
)ods.
he shore
ful vales
vagons to
s to the
s with a
is rivers

season,
vd, or to

" salmon
tis, is a

I to the
wav of

the mountain ranges by hugging the shore for two hundred miles, makes a bold push
and crosses the hills at Malfait Lake. Here the tourist is nearly 750 feet above the
sea, higher than he has been since he left Quebec, and higher than he can be on any
other part of the line. Down the grade the cars go, until again on the level in the
midst of a beautiful valley, where the hills rise on each side si.v and eight hundred feet
for a distance of many miles. The French villages are no longer seen ; the French
names are no longer heard. In the ])lace of the latter comes the names bestowed by
the Indians who once peopled the land. Some of these names are musical, after you
get used to them. No doubt they were musical to Algoncjuin ears when uttered by
Algonquin tongues : but the true p'ronunciation of many of them is lost, and as the
Indians had no written language there is no rule as to how they should l)e spelled.
Some of them arc believed to have had poetical meanings, but there is a good deal
more fancy than fact in many of the interpretations. It is just as well, however, to
attach some poetry to them in the Metapediac, for all the surroundings are of a poet-
ical nature. It is supjjosed to have been somewhere in this vicinity that the first and
last of the .Vboriginal Spring Poets ventured to warble, and was put to djath, with
horrible tortures, as a warning to Spring Poets for all time to come. His effusion is
believed to have consisted of a hundred and sixteen stanzas. He desired his Chiefs
opinion as to their fitness for publication. The cfiticism was j)romptly given, for when
the poet had reached the end of the fifth stanza he was gagged, tried and condemned
to the stake. Tradition says the verses were :

ODK lO SPKINC;.

llail, Metapediac! Upon thy shore
The Souriquois may sweet seclusion seek ;
Ca(iara(|ui distracts his thoujjhls no more,
Nor seeks he gold from Souleamuagadeek.

Mail Kestigouche and calm Caiisapscal,
Tartague, 'l'ol)egote and Sayabec,
Anniiii, Wagansis, l'eske-.\mmik — all
The scenes wiiich Nature doth with glory deck.

At .•\ssanuti|naghan and at L'psalnuitch
I'he busy beaver builds his little dam ;
His sisters, cousins and liis aunts grow rich
At I'atapediac and Obstchiiuasquam.

I've wandered by the (Juatawamkedgwick,
Tlie Mailawaska and the famed l.oostook,
'Hie Temiscouata, Kamouraska, l!ic ;
I've climbed the hill of Wollodadamook.

.Vnd everywhere do thoughts of spring arise,
Till this .\lgoni|uin doth an ode pioduce.
llail, brother Mareschites and -Vbnakies !
llail. balmy mouth of .\muss\vikizoos I

(lachepeanil Kigicapigiok —

It was at this stage that the jioet was gagged. Like unto the swan, his song and
his death fi)llowe(l each other. It was the first and last ajjjjearance of the Spring Poet
among the Red men.

:i J

MKTAPKDIAC LAKE AND VALLEY.

Beyond Sayal)ec lies the beautiful sheet of water called Lake Metapediac. It is
the noblest sheet of inland water seen along the route. All lakes have a beauty which
appeals to the imaginative minds, but this enshrined among the mountains must im-
pressthe most prosaic nature. About sixteen miles in length, and stretching out in
parts to the width of five miles, its ample area gives it a dignity with which to wear its
beauty. Embosomed on its tranquil waters lie isles rich in verdure, while shores
luxuriant with Nature's bounty make a fitting frame to so fair a picture. He who has
told us of Loch Katrine could sing of this lake that she :

" In all her length far winding lay,
With |)iomontory, creek and bay.
And Islands that, empurpled bright,
Floated amid the lovelier light ;
And mountains that like giants stand
To sentinel enchanted land."

Upon this lake the canoe may glide amid scenes which can wake the artist's soul
to ecstacy. Here, too, may the sportsman never ply his craft in vain. These clear
waters are the home of the salmon, and kings among the fishes await the angler's
pleasure. The trout and the salmon are of a size and flavor which will charm alike
the eye and the taste. They are simply majestic —

None know them but to love them,
Nor name them but to praise.

The outlet of the lake is the famed Metapediac River. It is usually spelled with-
out the final "c." and some use an "a" instead of the first "e." It is a matter of
taste, but it is highly probaljle no one of the three is like the original Indian word.
Cascapediac, for instance, is a corruption of Kigica])igiak, and jjrobably the original of
Metapediac is something even worse. It is just as well not to be too particular, for
the corruj)tion of Indian words is generally an improvement so far as relates to the
case of ])ronunciation by the tongues of white men. The name is said to denote
Musical Waters, and the title is well deserved. Through the green valley it winds in
graceful curves, singing the music of the waters as it runs. It has 222 rapids, great
and small, now swift and deej), now gently rip])ling over beds of shining gravel and
golden sand. Here and there are the deeper pools in which lurk salmon of astounding
size, for this is one of the salmon rivers of which every fisherman has heard. For mile
after mile the traveller watches the ccnirse of the river, so strangely i)ent in by the
mountains on either hand, rising from six to eight hundred feet in every shape which
mountains can assume. .Some are almost perfect cones ; others rise swiftly into jjreci-
I)ices ; and others have sui h geiilie slopes that one feels that he would like to stroll
leisurely upward to the summit. In some |)laces. liie river, the highway, and the rail-
way, crowd each f)ther for a passage between the foot of the hills, so narrow is the
valley. All kinils of foliage, ami all shades of Nature's colors are upon the hillsides ;
and in the autumn when the grand transformation of hues takes place the effect is
magnificent beyond descrii)tion. .\loug the river, grassy banks here and there await
the angler's feet to \)rv^s tiie turf in j.)yful haste, as the lordly fish leap from the waters
to seize his hook, lieauty is everywhere ; here all the charms of retirement can be
found, amid a Northern paradise. Switzerland lives in miniature amid the mountains ;
England and Scotland are around tiie lakes, streams and springy heather. Everyone

"^^-A

|)ediac. It is
beauty which
ins must im-
tching out in
ch to wear its
while shores
He who has

artist's soul
These clear
the angler's
charm alike

spelled with-
a matter of
ndian word.
le original of
articular, for
elates to the
1 to denote

it winds in
apids, great

gravel and
" astounding
i. For mile
It in by the
hajje which
»■ into preci-
ike to stroll
nd the rail-
rrow is the
e hillsides ;
he effect is
there awaii

the waters
;nt can be
nountains ;

Kveryone

fli

|)raises Mctapediac ; many grow gushing ovt-r its l)eauties ; no one presumes to suggest
that it could have been l)etter than it is.

For year after year this glorious country was far removed from the path of travel-
lers, save those whose necessities obliged them lo traverse the military road to Ste-
Klavie. The building of the railway has opened it to the world, and thousands are
now familiar with it where hundreds had heard of it in other years. It is a country
which has attractions for all. Those who seek the beautiful in Nature may here find it,
while those who are disciples of Nimrod or Walton may here find the days only too
short, and the weeks passing away all too swiftly.

Mil, I, sTKi:.\M Mi;T.\ri:i)i.\.

THK SHOOTING AND FISHING.

Vou can stand on the railway track and shoot jiartridges in this valley, and by
going two miles into the forest you can shoot caribou. As was previously mentioned,
vast (piantities of moose once roamed here, and some are still left ; but the caribou
must content the hunter as regards large game, unless, indeed he have the luck lo meet

a bear or two.
By climbing
the mountains,
plenty of game
of all kinds is
found in the
forests, which
cover a large
area of coun-
try. The Me-
tajiediac has
several other
salmon rivers

rinwing into it. The C'ausa])scal is one of these, and it was where the streams join
ihiii the Princess Louise landed the forty ijoiind salmon. Royal fish are these salmon,
and fit sport for royalty. Take any part of the Metai)ediac in the latter i)art of June
or the early jiart of July. when, as a rule, the fish are the most abundant, and there is
fishing enough to keep a good sized crcnvd i)retty busy. The Americans have found
out the advantages of the country, and a club of wealthy New-V'orkers now own a
club-house and hold a fishing lease on the Metajiediac. 'I'heir house is at the junction
of the River with the Restigouche, ihe jilace formerly so well known as " Dan F'laser's."
For early salmon fishing, the Metai)ediac and its tributaries have an especially
,uood name, but at no time during the season is the fishing poor. The Mctapediac
trout are as large as some fish which i)ass fiir salmon in other countries, and one of
them is a "S(|uare meal " of itself. Where fi)rty and fifty jjound salmon exist, seven
|iound trout are only in jjroportion as they should be. .\t Assametfjuaghan (a place
iiiorc beautiful than it^ name), at M( Kinnon lirook. and at Mill Stream, will be found
particularly good trout fishing. .\ part\ of two men has gone out of an afternoon and
ivniaiiied until noon the next day. securing nearly 250 jxiunds of trout, each trout
averaging fi)iir |)ounds in weight, but many running as high as seven pounds.

Mr. Fraser tormerlv kejit an excellent hotel at .Mctapediac Station, where the
house of the '• Restigouclie Salmon Cliil)" siands. .After disjiosing of the latter place,
he erected a new hotel, about one mile further down the river, and close to the line of

railwav,

I'll

IS ,||SI)

lui> 1

icfii disposed of Id a fisliing (

lull

111 Mr. Krascr is still in

demand liv strangers sci'king tor ••iioinis.

'i'lie last (if the .ML-taia'diar is sec

iMi at tiu- village \vlii( li hears the name of the

1 tlu

river, at the junction with the Kestigouche. It is a phue of singular huiuty. and the
JVC lingers lovingly (ui the beautiful panorama as it jiasses I

rom

the view and the train

rushes onward to liie boundary of New Mrunswiik. Here we talih sight of the River
kestigouche. spanned by a beautiful railway bridge, over a thousand feet in length. A

lew ni

iles bevond. the train

iiasses

through the tunnel on Morrisse\

v's Rock, on the side

of Prospect .Mountain.

Thi^

IS the on

Iv tunnel through which trains pass, though,

hidden from the eve of the ordin.irv traveller, are a number of others by which rivers

have been diverted in the work of construction.

There are. however, miles of snow-

sheds, which answer the purposes of tunnels, so far as linked darkness, long drawn

out. is concerned

At the Head of the iide a bright picture meets the eye.' The river is thickly
dotted with low-lying islands, rich with meadow land, their hues of green contrasting
tinelv with th

jf brigl

e silver surface of the river. In truth, this part of ihe road is a suci'ession

are shown some of Nature's fairest scenes.

lit iiictures — a iianorama. wherein

CAM r 1!K 1. 1, TO N .

We are in New Iirunswick. and juetty near what might have answered for a jump-
ing off place in old times. Nowadays the residents ii'pel such an insinuation, and
point with pride to the present prosperity of the village (but don't call it that '.), and to
its great possibilities in the future. \\ ell. t'ampbellton has great possii)ilities, and it
has jirobabilities as well. It is no longer gay or sad as lumber is high or low. and it
lives in airy independence of the hoisting and shutting-down of the saw-mills. It is
imjiroving every year. By and by it wil
the most popular resorts on the railwaw

very much improved, and will he one of

lat are its possibili

ties? In the first phu e, its situation is a convenient as well
as a very charniing (Jiie. Comenienl because it is (entr:il ui>on the line of the Inter-
colonial — neither too f.ir south for llie peojile who are abo\e it. nor too tar north for
those who are below. It is 314 miles from (^)uebec, 372 from Halil'ax, and 274 from

.St. |ohn. It is convenient, tt

ause it lies in the midst of one

the finest regions

for siKirt on the continent. The Kestigouche and Metajtediac . with their tributaries,

afford only a part of the splendid fishing to be had. while the Kind to the west an

d the

north (ontains all manner of game to entice the sportsman to its forests

Hesidt

('ami)belllon looks into the fair and famous liaie des Chaleurs. which is of itself

worth coining from afar to sail u|)oii ; and. finally, it is comenieiit as a cool, hut not

cold, watering place with ever\' facility for salt-water bathing, salt water tishing and a

gooil time generally. 'Ihe situation is beautiful, because ( 'ampbellton lies at a jioint

where a broad and beautiful river unites with the waters of a bav which has no rival in

Canada, lieautiful. bec.iuse th

heavenward with a grandeur not to be descriheil. whi

with a harmon\ which all mav admire, hut whi< !i can he aiipret

e mountains rise near and lar. their ccuies jioiiiling

trying shades are blended

"^'es. Cam[)l)elltou is well situated, and wluai it has a .St. |,a\

iated cmly by the artist,
eiv. •■ Hall, like that at

Cacouna. it w

a pi

;u e w Inch no oiv.

an afford to 111

( )ne of the finest views to he had is tVom the t(

if the Suuar Loaf, a mountain

about a mile and a half above the town. Do not he alarmed when the people tell vou
that the summit is nearly a thousand feet high. The 1 limb is not so much as that.

highest measurement it ever got was In the rellec tin;

( in

The
le of .Sir Howard Douglas,

I 111

ihc-
the
train
Liver
A
side

|>iigh.
[ivers
[now-
Irawn

ickly

M. 1'.. Mr. I'.llis. had iin|>ri'(i.(loiui.<l mk i ess ii) iSyi). tht- jjiirly of ihrt'f hooking several
thousand ixuinds. Mr. KMis spoki- of the s< oni-rv at Cascaiicdia as the fines! he had
1 it /s- fine. President .\rtliiir. Iiefore he was init on the limits !)>• virtue

lia iiis favorite resort, (irand Casc-apedia

ever seen. aiK

if 1

lis exalted position, alsn made

( !as( ai

is a fivorite resort of the \iie- Regal party, the (lovernor (ieneral having a hsiiing

lodge on that river.

Besides these jilaces. the sjiortsm;

m IS lie

ar the Metapediat Valley, and has the

Resligotuhe and all its many tributaries to afford him rec reation.

S H (»(»1 I N (1.

A time-honored poem, the author of w liieh is unknown, useil to say :

" I 111, Wfie )im ever in Restigouche,
To see the Injun slioot-um goose,"

and the words ajtply as well to-ilay as they did tifty years ago. The Indians are found
at Cross I'oiiu mission, opposite Camphv-'llton. one of the oldest missions in ("ana<la.
Here they have a reserve of 840 aeres, and they numlier about 500 in all. During the
last fifty years the increase of iiopulation has '>een only forty.

'I'hi

Indians make

exi ellent guides. The geese mentioned by the |ioet hover around the shores in tlocks of
thousands. So tlo the duck and brant. 'I'hey are in their glory in the fall and spring,
but where there is ojien water some of them fight it out on that line all winter.

Partridge and snijie shooting is also a success in this locality. Plover are found
at times, but a strict regard for truth compels the admission that a man who goes after
them and wants nothing else may be disappniinted.

Caribou are abundant. 'I'he woods are full of them tiguralively speaking. A
year or two ago one was caught at the freight house at (.'am|ibelltf)n. anil Mr. Thomas
Clare, of \ouvelle, also ajiprehended one which he found loafing around his barn-yard.
Moose are also to be had by going back into the woods, while a jileasing variety is
gi\en by the occasional appearance of a bear or loup-cervier.' ( )ne of the best |)laces
for moose is between Paiape(lia( and I'rai y Jirook. i''red Weirs gets three or four of
these kingly creatures at the mouth of the former stream as regularly as the winter
comes. A remarkable exploit was that ot" William .Murray, of Camiibellton. who went
up the Nouvelle river and shot four moose in one day. Hears are abundant on the
North-west Upsahpiitch, where they resort in >earcli of the tempting blueberry.

Another wonderful feat was that of William Harjier. in killing fourteen black duck
at one shot, on the Little Muni river.

in K R K s )■ ! c, re n k .

Should one wish to sisii an ideal wilriernos. let him asceiul this great river to its
source, some two hundred miles away.

'I'he Restigouche is jiart of the northern boundary of .New Jkiinswick, and if it
were straight would reaih (luite across the Province. .Nature, however, is not jiartial
to >traight lines, and so the Restigouche makes some wild bends, at all kinds of angles,
from its source to its mouth. It has been recorded by xime one. and believed by a
great many, that the meaning of Restigouche is "river that divides like a hand." The
latter, however, is believed to be the meaning of I'psahpiitch, and Restigouche means,
according to the mission chronicles, "River of the Long War." Some contend that
it signifies " Broad River." .Some of the .\biiakis used to call this region I'apechigu-
iiai h. the i)lac e of spring aniusenieiits which had no reference to sjiringtraps. but may
possibly have borne upon ilie unlimited chances for the shooting of wild geese and

k several
|l he liad
[y virtue
(" apedia
fisliing

has the

ducks. lie its name what it may. it is a nol)lf river and is good for an unlimited
amount of fishing and hunting. Its head waters lie near Metis I-ake in one direction
and Temiscouata in another, and for much of its length it flows through the dense
wilderness rarely trodden by the foot of man. The country drained by it and its tribu-
taries is a land of mountains and valleys — the former rising grandly two thousand feet
towards the clouds : the latter having forests, in which solitude and silence reign. In
these regions there are lakes where the beaver has no r le to molest nor make it afraid;
there are valleys whose rocks have never echoed the report of a gun ; there are miles
ujjon miles which have never been explored, and where the creatures of the forest roam
as freely as they did a hundred years ago. One can retire into the heart of New
Brunswick and reach rivers which lead to all points, such as the Tobiijue and St. John.
Nepisiguit, Miramichi and others of lesser note, as well as rivers which run to the St.
Lawrence.

Ascending the Restigouche, the first object of interest is Point Kourdo, where
once stood the French village of Petit Rochclle, destroyed by C."a])tain Byron in 1760.
Four French vessels of war had taken shelter in the river and were followed by Byron's
fleet and destroyed. The inhabitants of the village fled to the woods, their houses
were laid in ruins and the fortifications destroyed. Many relics of the engagement
have been fi)und and preserved, and a few years ago the hulls of some of the sunken
vessels could be seen at low water.

Some six or seven miles after passing the mouth of the Meta])ediac, the l'i)sal-
quitch is reached, being the first tributary on the New Brunswick side. By ascending
this the head waters of the Ne])isiguit and Tobique are reached. About 29 miles furtl-.';r
is the Patapediac. by which the Metis and other rivers may be found ; then comes the
Quatawamkedgwick, some 21 miles further, leading to the head-waters of the Rimouski.
By following the Restigouche into the Wagansis. a portage of about three miles will
bring one to Clrand River, a tributary of the St. John. The Temiscouata and Squatook
Lakes may also be reached — indeed, the by-paths in the wilderness are innumera' le,
for streams run in all directions. All of any si/e are safe fi)r canoe navigation, and all
abound with the best of fish. So safe is the navigation, that even ladies, with jiroper
escort, have ascended the St. John, crossed the narrow ridge of land and de.scended the
Restigouche. They, of cour.se, did not explore the wild country to be found by ascend-
ing the branches of the latter river, the land of the hunter and his game.

Returning to Campbellton, the traveller will find fair hotels and cheap living. For
those merely ])assing through, an excellent Dining-Room will be found at the station.
This Dining-Room is favourably known among travellers for the good and substantial
meals supplied and especially for delicious fresh fish newly caught.

I)Ai,H()LSI K.

One of the fairest spots on tlie line of the Intercolonial is fi)und at the town of
Dalhousie. L\en when this place was not connected with the railroad its beauiv attracted
large numbers of visitors, and now that it is so easy of access it bids fair to l)e one of
the most popular of summer resorts. Its location at the mouth of the Restigouche wliere
the glorious Bale des Chaleurs begins, would in any event make the site one of muisual
beauty; but nature has done much fi)r Dalhousie in giving it hills and heights whi(h
command a prospect of sea and land far as the eye can rea( h. All varieties of
scenery may here be fi)und, from the gentiv murmuring groves to the rugged rocks of
most fantastic fi)rni which in places skirt the shore. The harbor is a most e\( client
one fiir all purposes. It i> perle( lly safe for all kinds of boating and large enough to

afford an al)iindance of recreation. Beyond it are the broad River Restigoiiche and
the l)road Baie des Chaleurs. Fine beaches and water of moderate temperatnre tempt
the bather. The sheltered position of the place gives it a freedom from raw winds, and
fog, that terror of so many tourists is never known around this shore. It is not only a
spot where the strong and healthy may enjoy themselves, but it is one where the weak
may become strong, and the invalid take a new lease of life. Dalhousie, too, surjiasses
many other attractive sjiots in having a really first-class hotel— the Inch Arran House-
built on a most desirable site close to the waters of the harbor. Every convenience
incident to modern hotel life may be found at this place, and the most delicate and
fastidious need not fear to surrender the comforts of home for a sojourn here during
the summer season.

Dalhousie is convenient if you wish to visit the fiimous land of Ciaspe, for from it
a steamer runs twice a week and <alls at grand sporting places on the way. If one has
a taste to visit Anticosti, he will find jiackets at (Jaspe to take him there, or should he
desire to see the quaint regions of the Magdalen islands, he can easily get there from
Pas])el)iac.

The distance across to some of the famous fishing rivers, such as the Escuminac
and Cascapediac, is but short and may i)e made by sail at any tune.

I- A B A IK I) KS C H A I. K IRS.

l.a Baie des Chaleurs is one of the most beautiful havens in America. Ninety
miles long, and from fifteen to iwenty-fi^ -• wide, there cannot be found in its waters
cither rock or other himlerancc to the safe passage of the largest of ships. Jacques
(artier gave the Bay its present name lo commemorale the grateful warmth which he
there felt after coming from the cold shores of Newfoundland. The Indians called it
ICcketuan Nemaachi. or Sea of Fish, a name far more ap])ropriate thf)ugh less musical
than that which it now bears. The railway runs close to its shore for many miles, and
(i;w fairer sights are to be seen than the broad and beautiful expanse of water, with its
numerous little inlets on the New Brunswick side and the lofty and im])Osing moun-
tains rising grandly on the shore oi' (^)uel)ec. For miles, too. the land around the bay
is settled, and the green fields of well tilled farms aild another (harm to the landscape.
( >f a summer day, with a gentle bree/.e ri])|)ling the smootii surface of the water, the
yachtsman feels that he has at last t'ound the object of his dream. There is no finer
yachting bay on the North .\th'ntic c >ast.

I'he waters of the bay abound with net h>li and there is, also, a fine chance for
line fishing. Catching m;ickerel is a favorite recreation, the season lasting from early
in July until the last of .September, or later. ihe fishers go out in small boats and use
lines from ten to twentv feet in length. Fine chopjied herring are thrown overboard to
attract a "school," and suon one has work enough to tend his lines and ha.il in the
mackerel as last as caught. Where two lines are used it is lively sport, and a hundred
an hour is a common catch. I'lu- Ciilf of St. Lawrence mackerel are large in size and
are usually in sjilendid londiticm. Tlu'ie i> another kind of mackerel fishing — that for
the huge and oily horse-mackerel, or tunny, which is sometimes a dozen feet long, and
has been known to attain the weight of half a ton. i'he specimens laughl here are
usually smaller than this and not h.ird to manage. A heavy chain and hook are used,
the water is "baited," and when .1 big fish takes the hook all there is to be done is to
haul in the chain, and keep his head abnve water until he <an be speared in a vital
part. It is "as easy as rolling off a log" — after >ou get in the way of it.

All the rivers which flow into the bay are good fishir.g streams. Sea trout are

found in the estuaries, and l»rook trout in the waters al)Ove. They are not so large as
those further north. l)ut are of good size and flavor. The sea trout weigh four and five
pounds ; the others run from half a pound to four pounds. Both branches of River
Charlo have good privileges, both for trout and salmon, and are not under lease. Good
sport is also had at the lakes, about four miles from the village. Another, and well
known stream, is the Jacquet river, which is leased for salmon fishing. July is a good
time to commence to look for sport on it, while August and September make suspicion
of this kind a certainty. The scenery on the river is wildly grand, the waters running
between precipitous rocks, roaring in cascades and foaming amid the boulders in the
rai)ids. (luides are to be had at the village. If one wishes to be imattended, he can
go up by a good purtage road, and will find excellent fishing as he goes. He is sure to
have it at Sunnyside. eight miles from the station, or at the I'ot Hole and Kettle Hole,
four miles higher up. The best ])lan is to fish all along between the two places, and
one is sure to have good luck. Another choice i)lace is at the first falls, twenty miles
from the station. Belledune La!:e. six miles from the station, in another direction, also
has a good name for gamy irout. running from a half to two pounds in weight.

The shooting along the bay and in the woods further inland is of the same fine
character as that mentioned in connection with the Restigouche — ducks and geese ;ieu
the water, and bear, caribou, moose, etc., in the forest.

There is one thing which the tourist may hear of at Jacquet River, or in its vicii 'ly,
which may puzzle him. It will puzzle him still more if he sees it. It is the phantom
light of the Haie des Chaleurs. What it is.- no one seems to know ; the people along
the shore believe it to be something which "is, but hadn't ought to be," among the in-
habitants of this world: strangers dismiss it by the very indefinite designation of
"electricity." It has been seen at times for the last three-cpiarters of a century, at
least, and ])eoi)le know no more about it now than they ever did. It has appeared in
various ])arts of the bay. from above Jaccpiet River down as far as Caraquet, some-
times aij|)earing like a ball of fire within a mile or two on shore, and sometimes having
the ai)pearance of a l)urning vessel many miles away. .Sometimes it shoots like a
meteor ; at other times it glides along with a slow and dignified motion. Sometimes it
seems to rest upon the water : sometimes it mounts rapidly in the air and descends
again. It is altogether mysterious and eccentric. One may watch for months and
never see it, but many reliable i)ers()ii> have seen it time after time. It is usually fol-
lowed by a storm, and the most singular i)art of the story is that it has ac tually appeared
above the i( e in the depth of winter. There is. of < ourse. a tradition that just before
the light a|ipeare(l for the ;irst time, a jiari of the < rew of a wrecked vessel were mur-
dered i)y their companion^, who appropriated all the plunder they could get. The
piratical sailors were subsequently lost during a storm, and immediately after the event
the light began its \agrant existence. Whatever be the cause, the phenomenon is there,
though not always to be seen, for "sometimes the spirits work, and sometimes they
don't." It is one of the strange things that ( ome in with the tide.

I! AT 11 r RSI'

is one of the liol laid out lowii-> in the Province, thanks to Sir Howard Douglas, by
whom it was named and designed. Before li!> visit, in 1828. it had the aboriginal name
of Indian Point, but Sir Howard iluly chri^ieued ii ii\ drinking the only bottle of wine
in the place. In those days there was no Intendionial. and no chance to procure sup-
plies at short notice. The announ( enient of the proposed offii i,il visit fil|( d the i)ublic
with dismay— there was inii one bottle of uine to be h.d for lov- ur i.vji.ev. The

fe as
five
uver
iood
well
[good
ficion
ining
|n the
can
lire to
(Hole,
|. and
iniles
I, also

recei)tion committee were e(iual to the occasion. When the banquet was spread, the
wine was placed before Sir Howard, while the natives drank the toast in water so in-
geniously colored that His Excellency never knew the difference.

The streets of Bathurst intersect each other at right angles ; they are well graded,
roomy, and shaded by numerous trees. The soil is so sandy that mud is never seen,
and altogether the town is a particularly pleasant place both for the residents and for
visitors. There are numerous pleasant drives. One is to the Tete-a-gauche, or Fairy
River, the falls of which are about seven miles from the town, and How through a rocky
gorge with very fine effect. On the return the Vale Farm is well worth a visit. Another
drive is up the Nepisiguit to the Pabineau Falls, seven miles, taking in the Rough
Waters on the return. At the latter place, the Nepisiguit runs for about a mile, roaring
amid huge granite boulders which appear as if hurled thither by Titanic hands. For
falls, however, there is nothing in the vicinity to ecpial the (irand Falls, twenty-one
miles distant. There are two pitches, the total descent being 105 feet, and the grandeur
of the rocky heights by which the river is here overlooked requires to be witnessed to
have any conception of the sublimity of the scenery.

(iood bathing may be had at the Point, three miles from the station, where there
is a fine sandy beach. There are rumors that a large hotel is to be built at this place,
and the choice of site would be an excellent one. Boating is had in the harbor and
around the bay. Mackerel and smelts are fished for with good success, with lines.
Some of the smelts measure a foot in length.

This is a great country for salmon and trout. The former are taken on the Nepi-
siguit as far up as the Cirand Falls. One of the favorite places for them is at the Rough
Waters, but good pools are found all along the river. In former years a man has
gone from Bathurst to Grand Falls, fishing uj), and returned the next day, fishing down,
and brought home thirty salmon, weighing from thirty-five |)ounds each and under.
The Tete-a-gauche is another good salmon stream, and the Middle River is fair, but
not remarkable for its fishing. The early salmon requires rather a bright Hy. but Mr.
Flannery, at the Railway Station, is the best one to give advice on this point. He
knows all about Hies, and fish as well.

Trout fishing with bait commences about the loth of May, and large qtiantitics of
sea trout, weighing from half a pound to six pounds, are taken in the harbor. About
the last of June, or first of July, the rivers begin to get good and continue so until
V inter. During the summer a red. or brown, or small grey fiy brings good success, and
ui the fall, when the fish take bait readily, one who prefers a Hy wotild do well tt) use a

\,''iite one \\\

a go.

)d deal of tinsel. All the rivers and lakes have trout. V'oti can

ast a line anywhere and something will rise to it.

The Nepisiguit is about S4 miles long to the head of I'pper Lake. From this
jioint one can portage to the Upsahpiitch. and thence to the Restigouche ; to the
robi(jue, and down the St. John, and to the Northwest Miramic hi and thence to New-
castle. The country is wild enough in the interior, and abounds with lakes and streams
not laid down on any of the maps. These forests are [leopled wuh all kinds of game.

.\ country which l)a> Imiurto been little known to the tourist is now opened up by
the Cara(piel railway. This roail runs from Clloucesterj five miles east of Bathurst, to
Shippegan. a ilisiaiu e of sixty miles. Its course is along the shore of the Baie des
Chaleiirs, and the journey is a most attractive one to the lover of nature. Along the
route are the villages of Salmon Beach. Clifton. .New Bandon, Grand .\nse and Garaquet.

I'he latter.

tid and ijuaint A( adian settlement wi

lie fi)und worthv 'if the studv of

the stranger. Good shooting and fishing are found all along the line.

A F I X K C ( ) U N r R ^' F (J R S P O R T

lies between HiUliiirst and Newcastle. The 'I'abusintac River, about half-way, is one
of the best sea trout rivers in America. The fish-stories told of it are perfectly astound-
ing to a stranger. The trout are said to be as large as mackerel and so plenty that the
fishing of them is like being among a mackerel "school." This may be taken with a
little allowance, but there is no doubt that the river is an unusually fine one for sport.
The visitors will find good accommodations on the banks, at the house of Mrs. Good-
win, and from there he will go about six miles to the best trout ])ools. A horse and
canoe are useful on the journey. The Tracadie River has also a splendid reputation.
There are several other troit streams in the district, but this one is most worthy of mention.
Caribou ! Ves. the caribou i)lains extend from the Northwest Miramichi to the sea
coast ; and as to bears, the Bartibogue region jioints i)roudly to the record of the
bounties paid on the bruins slain in its midst. Partridges are plenty in every jjart of
this country, and fly ; .is ilie path of the traveller on every highway.

M I R A M I C H 1 .

It is just as well for people to believe that Miramichi means "Happy Retreat,"
ratlicr than to credit the greater i)rol)ability that it is derived from M iggumaghee,
Mi(niac Land." Hapjjy Retreat is more ])oetical and gives visitors a chance to say
how well tile designation suits the i)lace. and to gush over the noble river and goodly
land which was once the heritage of the Red Man. The name and the fame of Mira-
michi have s|)read all over the world. .Some peojjle in distant lands know it because
of the limiber, some because of the fish, and many have a vague idea that it is a i)lace
in Canada where there was a destructive fire years before they were born. Well, this
is Miramichi. and the first place one stops at is Newcastle, a town fair to look upon as
it slopes gently to the waters of the great river, which here l)roadens into an arm of
the sea as it meets the waters of the (iulf '1 ficre was a time when one man, Denis tie
Fronsac. owned the whole of this part of the country, and yet felt his importance a
good deal less than many a bank i:lerk does to-ilay. That was a long time ago ; the
value of real estate has risen since then, and the 2,000 scjuare miles granted in 1690 are
now ( ut up so that Denis would not recogni/e them if he came back again.

Miramichi has always been a pretty place and has always been j^raised by its
visitors. Jacipies Cartier came all the way from France to have a look at it in 1535,
and gave it a first-class noti< e in the guide book to Canada which he subsequently wrote.
Every other guide-book man has done the same, and every one has told the truth. It
is a stirring, wide-awake country, and its people have a right to feel proud of it and to
praise it. i'hey duly exercise that right, and are happy in the enjoyment of their lovely
heritage. 'I'he Miramichi River takes its rise two iuindred or more miles from its
mouth, its head-waters lying in Carleton and \ictoria counties, within easy reach of the
.St. John and its tributaries. Jhe .Northwest Hranch commences near the head waters
of the Nepisiguit. and the two bramhes unite at iieaubere Island, a short distance
above Newdistle. iloth bram lies are fed by numerous large streams, and the river
drains over Ci.ooo sipiare miles of country, an area eijual to about a (juarter of the
Province. It is navigable for large vessels fi)r forty six miles from the mouth, and for
canoes for many hundred miles. I'he vast ( ounlry whi( h it drains has never been
thoroughly exjilored ; even the ubiipiiious lumberman has but a partial knowledge of
it ; and it will readily be seen that its resources for the hunter are practically without
limit. Moose, t aribou. deer, bears, wolves. fi)xes. racoons. loup-( erviers. and all the

smaller animals range these forests, while fish leap from every lake and stream. By this
great natural highway, and its connections, one may reach every section of the Province
where a hunter wishes to go. No pent-up shooting park contracts his jjowers ; it is for
himself to limit the extent of his journey.

One whose time is limited does not need to wander far from Chatham or Newcastle
in order to find abundant sport. As for fishing, he is in a fish country, from which the
annual exports of salmon, smelts, bass, etc., are something almost incredible. Rod fish-
ing may be had in every direction. Many good salmon privileges are not yet under
lease, as, for instance, the Little Southwest and Renous rivers and their lakes, some of
which have never been fully, explored. Wherever there is a high bank on one side and a
low beach on the other, will l)e found a pool to which salmon are sure to resort. The
Ox Bow, on the Little South West, a mile above Red Bank, is n favorite spot for fishers.
The main North West is a particularly gootl river: one of the noted places on it is the
Big Hole, five or six miles above the Head of the Tide. There salmon or grilse can be
caugni. at almost all times, but are particularly abundant immediately after a rain. The
Big and Little Sevogles, which empty into the river just named, have a good reputation.
The former is a very pretty river with a fine water-fall, in the basin beneath which is
excellent fishing at certain seasons. Immediately below is the Square Forks, where the
north and south branches meet, a place with scenery of rather striking nature. The
Miramichi salmon is not large, ten pounds being a fair average, but its flavor is very fine.
Grilse average about five or six pounds. They are very gamy, and afford sjjiendid sport.

Trout fishing is had in all the rivers, brooks and lakes. The Tabusintac has already
been mentioned. 'l"he sea trout in it and in the Tracadie are very large. On both rivers
there is good fishing for many miles from the mouth. Early in June, when the water of
the Miramichi is low, fine sea trout are caught as far up as Indiantown. As for flies, the
"Jock Scott" is considered good for all purposes. 'I'he " Silver Doctor" is another
favorite, while for spring fishing a red body with white wings is found to have "a very
taking way."

During the siunmer, mackerel and codfish are taken wirh the hook in the Miramichi
Bay, and in the summer there is also good bass fishing inside the Horse Shoe Bar, at the
mouth of the river. The winter fishing for bass, with bow nets, is followed on the North
W^est River, and fish as large as twenty i)ounds are taken. The winter smelt fishing has
also grown to a great industry. Smelt take the hook as well, and are fished for in the
fall and winter with jiggers, four hooks being used.

As already stated, bear and caribou are plenty between Newcastle and Bathurst.
Messrs. Connell and Kenna, who live at Bartibogue, have a wide reputation as hunters,
and strangers can procure their services as guides.

Partridge are very plenty. Plover and :-<n\\)e are also found in the fall, and a few,
but not many, English woodcock. 'Phe great fall and spring sport is the shooting of
geese, brant and ducks of all kinds. Tliey are found at Tabusintac Gully, mouth of
'Pabusintac, Neguac Gully, Black Lands Point and (irand Anse, on the north of the
river, and Baie du Vin Fox Island, Point Escuminac, and orher places on the south side.

Newcastle has a large trade in lumber, and the saw mills are found in every direction
outside of the town. The fish business gives employment to a large number o( people
and represents a large amount of money. Trade of other kinds is brisk and there is a
general air of prosjierity. The situation of the town, its regular streets and numerous
fme residences make it a place most agreeable to the eyes of the visitor. Chatham, six
miles below, is a busy place, with a largn trade. Its wharves are in continual demand
for the large (piantities of shipping which come hither from all parts of the world, and

its streets and stores have a rush of Imsiness pleasant to witness. It is the seat of the
Roman Catholic Bishop of Chatham Diocese, and has numerous fine buildings, both
public and private. The Chatham 15ranch Railway, nine miles in length, connects the
town with the Intercolonial, and steamers ply several times a day between Chatham and
Newcastle, and also make trips to Indiantown, twenty miles above the latter i)lace. The
adjacent country is well settled and has nmnerous beautiful drives. Excursions are made
by steamer from Chatham to Bay du Vin, a distance of 25 miles, the round trip costing
tl e moderate sum of fifty cents.

The scenery of all this part of the country must be seen to be appreciated. The
magnificent river and the rich country through which it flow,s combine to make a vision
of beauty not soon to be forgotten.

TH E (iREAT FIRE.

The year 1825 was the gloomiest ever known on the beautiful Miramichi. It was
the year of the great fire, to a description of which pages might be devoted, and the
event was one to which no partial account can do justice. It may be summed up briefly
as one of the greatest fires of which there is any record. It swept over the country from
the head waters of the river in a sheet of flame one hundred miles broad, and burned all
before it over ar. area of eight thousand stpiare miles. The immense damage which it
did to the lumber woods cannot be computed ; in the settlements it destroyed over a
million dollars worth of jjroperty. It has never been known how many lives were lost ;
the lowest estimate, in the Newcastle district alone, was one hundred and sixty, but the
whole number was undoubtedly much larger. Wholf families were destroyed, and
hundreds were made homeless and destitute. Newcastle was swept from existence almost
in the twinkling of an eye. In three hours from the appearance of the sheet of flame,
every house, save one or two, had vanished, and desolation was upon the land. It was a
scene of which the terribli- grandeur can l)e but feebly realized : the most common place
accounts of it as related by the few survivors to-day are thrilling in the extreme. The
reality must have been appalling in its horrors.

After leaving Newcastle, the Miramichi Railway Bridges are crossed. Every one
admires their beauty, and no one is surprised when told that the cost of this part of the
road was in the neighborhood of a million dollars. This rejiresents a vast amount of
work, much of which is hidden under the water. Each of the bridges is 1.200 feet in
length, and they are models of strength combined with beauty.

I'Vom Miramichi until Moncton is reached the railway passes through a country
which has no |)articular attractions for the eye. It is so far from the shore that none of
the flourishing settlements are seen, and the traveller is apt to gain a poor idea of the
country. There is. however, a fine farming and fishing district all along the coast, and
some large rivers of which only the head waters are crossed. The Richibucto is one of
these, and the town of the same name, reached by a branch railway from Kent Junction,
has much to recommend it as a simimer resort, 'i'he bathing and boating privileges are
unlimited, and the scenery is never marreil by the presence of fog. What has been
wanted, however, has been an hotel suited to the wants of all classes of tourists. Thils
is now to be found in "The Beeches," a new and sjiacious structure, where will be found
all the accessories which can contribute to the comfort and amusement of its patrons. The
village of .St. Louis, seven miles distant, is noted as a resort for the sick and infirm, who
seek the healing waters at the shrine of the Immaculate Conception and return to their
homes with their afllictions bnnished. '{"he vicinity of Richibucto affords many other
walks and drives of interest, while all kinds of game invite the sportsman, and fine fishing
is found on the river and in the harbor.

M O N C r O N

Here is the heart of the Intercolonial, the centre from which the busy operations of the
system are controlled. No one can doubt that he is in what is essentially a railway town.
You smell a railway odor in the air; you hear the noise of a railway at all hours of the day
and night ; you see railway trains going this way and that way, and you meet railway men
in all sorts of places. The railway finds Moncton a convenient point, and Moncton is
pleased to have the offices and work shops in its midst. It dreamed of such a time as this
when it was only known as The Bend, and the railway was merely a vision of the future.

Moncton is now a town of over seven thousand inhabitants, and is still growing.
Its streets are spacious and regular. Those in the business portion are lined with stores
in which a large amount of business is done. In the other parts of the town are private
residences of tasteful design, and in many cases the grounds are arranged in a beautiful
manner. Hotels are numerous and their representatives salute the stranger, as he
steps from the cars, with a " greeting glee," of which the words " Free Coach," etc., form
the burden. There is also a railway dining room at the depot. Various industries inci-
dent to a place of this size are successfully carried on. The Sugar Refinery is one of
the late additions, and sjjeaks volumes for the enterprise of the leading citizens. A large
cotton factory has also been erected. Ship building has been carried on to some extent,
and, take it all in all, Moncton is one of the live towns of New Brunswick.

The town is located at the Bend of the Petitcodiac, one of the rivers to which the
traveller must get accustomed ere he proceeds much further on his journey, At high
water it is quite a majestic stream, though a trifle discolored ; at low water the river dis-
apjjears, with the exception of some water in the channel, and acres of smooth, slippery
mud appear. This mud is not a nice thing to get into, but as a fertilizer it is a great
success — the manure with which Nature enriches the vast areas of marsh which are found
at the head of the Bay of Fundy. The Petitcodiac River, at Muncton, is a good place
to see the tide come in with a " bore." Thousands of well read people, trusting to books
written by men of imaginative minds, have lived and died in the belief that the tide at
the head of the Hay rose 120 feet. Old editions of the Encyclopedia Brittanica used to
say so, and one geographer is responsible for the statement that this extraordinary tide
was seen thirty milts away approaching in one vast wave and with a prodigious noise.
The truth is. that the Bay of Fundy tides rise as high as 60 feet and upwards, and with
great rapidity, but take plenty of time to fall. When they enter certain long and narrow
estuaries a bore of six feet, and in some cases even higher, is formed. This is, however,
worth seeing, and worth keeping out of the way of, if you are out in a boat and don't
know how to manage it ; but a traveller who has set his heart on a bore of sixty or a
hundred feet is apt to be disappointed.

Seven miles beyond Moncton is Painsec Junction, where the tourist changes cars for

S H 1; 1 ) I A C .

Every one has heard of the Shediac oysters, those marvels of flavor on the half-shell
or in an A 1 stew. This is the place where they live when they are at home, and where
one may admire their open countenances as they come fresh from their native element.
Shediac has more than oysters to recommend it, however, for it is one of the most
pleasant summer resorts on this shore. As yet. strangers have hardly found it out, but
its beauties are well known to the peojjle of New Brunswick, many of whom pay it a
visit during the summer months. All who go to Shediac enjoy themselves. The village
ol itself is a jjtetty place, and the locality is a charming one. The harbor is a beautiful

sheet of water, about a inile and a half long, and from three to five miles wide. All
around it is a smooth and gently Hloi)ing sand beach, affording every facility for bathing
in the i)leasantly warm water. Hath houses have been erected for those who desire them,
and though the water is the salt sea, from the (lulf, there are no under-tows to play tricks
upon the weak and unwary. There are neither scjualls nor rough seas in the harbor, and
it is a si)lendid cruising ground for pleasure boats. The Island, a short distance away,
is much in favor for pleasure parties. .-\ visit to the Cape, one of the prettiest places in
the vicinity, will well repay one ft)r the trouble.

Point du Chene. two miles below Shediac, is the deep-water terminus and port of
shipment. Here, in the summer, may be seen lari;e numbers of scjuare-rigged vessels,
loading with lumber for |n)rts across the ocean. Daily communication is had with Prince
Edward Island, by steamer. .\11 that has been said of Shedia(- applies with equal force
to the Point, and the latter has the additional advantage of being close to the sea. The
view from the shore on a calm summer day is one which cannot fail to charm. Add to
this the fresh, invigorating breezes from the water, excellent bathing and boating, with the
advantage of a good hotel, and Point du Chene is one of the places to be sought as a
quiet, healthful and restful retreat. One of the curiosities of the place is a boat-slide,
the only one in Canada. It is on the principle of a toboggan-slide, and from it the boat
and passengers are sent flying over the surHice of the water.

A great deal of quiet enjoyment may be had from the trout fishing in this vicinity.
The streams most sought by the angler are the Shediac and the Scadouc. On the former,
good places are found at Bateman's mill, four miles from the village, and at Gilbert's mill,
two miles beyond. Between these places and Point du Chene sea trout may be caught,
weighing three and four pounds each. Fishing commences in the latter part of May,
and the Hy preferred is the red hackle. Down the shore, good fishing is had at Dickey's
mill, three miles, and at Aboushagan, eight miles distant. Good bass and mackerel fish-
ing is had in the harbor and off the Island, in the fall. In September and October, three
and four-pound bass can be caught from the wharf at Point du Chene.

Oysters, of course, are abundant, while sea-clams mud-clams and lobsters are found
everywhere along the shore.

Plover shooting commences on the ist of September, and good success is had on
the shore from Point du Chene to Barachois. a range of about four miles. This shore is
also a good i)lace for geese, brant and ducks in the spring and fall, and another good
shooting ground is at Grandigue, about eight miles distant by road.

Board is very reasonable and e.vcellent accommodation is provided. The Weldon
House, which runs a free carriage to and from the steamers at Point du Chene, is well
conducted. The rate is only $1.50 a day, and board may be secured for $5 and $6 a
week. The Ciulf Port steamers call at Point du Chene. and Shediac and its vicinity shows
no small amount of stir in the summer. With fine climate, fresh sea breezes, sunny
days and cool nights, the place is remarkably healthy; more than that it is exceedingly
pleasant.

The traveller can go from Shediac direct to Prince Kdward Island, he can return to
Moncton and thence to St. John : or he can return to Painsec and continue his journey
south. Taking the latter course, he enters ui)on a fine country, which becomes more
settled and better cultivated as he proceeds. Memramcook is a settlement largely com-
posed of .Acadian French. St. Joseph's ( 'ollege and other educational institutions (R.C.)
are the chief features of interest. A few miles beyond is Dorchester, prettily situated on
rising ground. The Maritime Penitentiary, for long term prisoners, is a conspicuous
object in approaching the village. Cojjper is mined in the vicinity and ship-building has

4»

been carried on actively for many years. Dorchester has furnished the I'rovince with
one of its governors and the Supreme Court with one of its judges. Being the Shiretown
of Westmoreland, law and iM)litics enter largely into the elements of its daily life.

Eleven miles beyond this is Sackville, a place which would be quite a town if the
hou.ses were closed together, but which is s( attered over miles of country. Farming is
extensively carried on. and some of the finest cattle in the l,ower Provinces are raised
here. The thousands of acres of fertile marsh are a rich heritage, and the farmers are
fully aware of their value. 'J'he Mount Allison College and Academies (Methodist) are
located in Sackville and afford every facility for thorough education. They are finely
situated and are well attended.

It has been the dream of Sackville, r^ many years, to have a railway to Cape Tor-
mentine, communicating with I'rince Edward Island, and this has now been realized, — the
New Brunswick and Prince Edward Railway nms from Sackville to Cape Tormentine.

In the winter, when navigation across the strait is impracticable by ordinary means,
Cape Tormentine is the point of arrival and departure for mails and jjassengers en route
for P. E. Island by that extraordinary means — the ice-boat. An ice-boat in the common
usage of the term denotes a triangular alTair on runners, fitted with sails, and speeding
along over the smooth ice with a s])eed which no other kind of craft, or vehicle can hope
to equal. 'I'his is hardly the kind of boat that crosses the Straits of Northumberland.
The traveller, well prepared for the journey, goes by the train to Cajie Tormentine, and
puts up at the house of the celebrated " 'I'om Allen." If the weather be clear, and the
condition of the ice and water not absolutely bad, he will not be delayed long before the
boat is ready to start, i'he distance to Cape Traverse is about nine miles part solid ice,
part drifting ice, part water, and sometimes a great deal of broken ice or •' lolly." 'I'he
" ice-boat ' is a strongly built water boat, in charge ot trusty men who thoroughly under-
stand the difficult task that is before them. To this boat straps are attached, and each
man, passengers included, has one slung over him. So long as there is any foothold, all
hands drag the boat alone, and when the water is reached tiiey pull the boat in it and get
on board. In this way, sometimes iq) to the waist in water, but safely held by the strap,
pulling and hauling over all kinds of places, the journey is acconqjlished. Sometimes,
when the conditions are good, the trip has less hardships than when a large amount of
loose ice is piled across the path ; but at any time the '• voyage " is sufficiently full of
novelty, excitement and exercise, to be remembered for many days. There is nothing
like it in the ordinary experience of a traveller. It is an unicpie style of journeying, yet
so far, it is the only sure method of communication with the island in the winter season.

Local sportsmen find fair goose and duck shooting at the lakes above .Sackville, and
snipe shooting is also i-arried on to some extent.

Leaving Sackville. the road takes its way over the Tintamarre Marsh for several
miles, close to the head of the Bay of I-'undy. Au Lac station was the point at which
the Bale N'erte Canal would have connneiiced. had it been built. The isthmus at this
point is a little over eleven miles wide from water to water, and it is not twenty miles
from one anchorage to the other. The country is well settled between the two shores.

A short distance beyond Au Lac is a hill iqjon which may be seen the ruins of Fort
Cimiberland, the Beausejour of the French. Those who would learn its story, and the
story of France in this part of America, should read Hannay's History of Acadia, a work
which has all the fascination of a romance. " These wasting battlements," he says, " have
a sadder history than almost an\- other piece of ground in Acadia, lor they represent
the last effort of France to hold on to a portion of that Provmce which was once all her
own, which she seemed to value so little when its possession was secured, yet which she
fought so hard to save. This ruin is all that remains of the once potent and dreaded

Beaiisejowr." Tlie Ion once liad accommodation tor eight hundred men, and was the
chief of a system of fortirtcations on the isthmus. It was taken !>)■ Colonel Moncton in
June, 1775, and with its fall the struggle in Acadia was at an end. The English gave
the place the name of Fort Cumberland. .\s the years rolled by it was suffered to fall
into decay, and now only the ruins remaui. " to point a moral or adorn a tale.''

.\ M HKR.S !'.

Ever\-one who visits .\mherst gets the impression that it ir> a busy i>lace. The
business jiortion of the town is c nnpactly built, and there is a stir u|)on the streets at all
hours of the day and evening. {"he people move around as if they had something to do
and meant to do u. and the stores have a business-like aspect agreeable to witness. The
location, too, is a pleasant one, on gently rising ground, and the centre of the town is
sufficiently near the railway to save trouble and yet not near enough to have discomfort
from the noise and bustle of the station yard. The private residences show good taste
as well as a regard for comfort, and every street has its tlower-gardens. which show careful
attention on the part of their possessors. Amherst is a live place, and is rapidly
growing in size, with a corresponding increase in the amount of its trade. When the
Chignecto .Ship Railway, for carrying vessels overland across the isthmus, is constructed,
AiTiherst will be a still more important place. The adjacent country abounds with
flourishing settlements which make Amherst a centre, and even the villages across the
border favor it largely with their custom.

Numerous pleasant drives may be had around the vicinity of Amherst. One of
these is to Fort Cumberland, from which there is a splendid view of the Bay and the
surrounding country for many miles. The drive to Bale Verte and vicinity will also
prove of interest, and indeed, as ihz country is well settled and good farms meet the eye
m every part, it is hard for one to take a drive which will not afford pleasure.

The shore to the eastward abounds with duck and geese at the proper seasons. This
shore is well settled and has some tine harbors. That of Pugwash is an exceptionnally
good one, safe, commodious, and deep enough for vessels of any size. Moose are found
among the mountains to the south of Amherst and in other places not far away. The
east branch of River Philip. 27 miles distant, and Shulee, 40 miles, are both moose
grounds.

The best tishing to be had is at Fountain Lake, Westchester, which is reached by
going to Greenville station, from which a drive of five miles brings one to Purdy's hotel.
Here there is cajiital accommodation. The lake is about si.v miles beyond this, a pretty
sheet of water which contains a very gamey salmon trout. " Tom, the Hermit," who
dwells by the lake, will answer the strangers hallow, and make him at home with the best
fishing places. Mr. Purdy will, however, see that the visitor is well fitted out and fully
posted on all points.

The chief hotels in /Vmhersi are the Lamy and Terrace, and the charges are very
moderate. The Railway Dining Room is well conducted, and every attention is paid to
its patrons. One great feature of the line is the ample time allowed for meals. There
need be no indecent haste in eating, and one can do full justice to the good cheer i)laced
before him.

The first station of imi)ortance after leaving Amherst is .Maccan, near which the
Chignecto Coal Mines are situated. Stages run from here, daily to Minudie and the
Joggins Mines. Minudie does a large business in grindstones, and the Joggins Mines
have a heavy annual output of coal. Beyond Maccan is Athol, from which one may take
the stage for Parrsboro, and have a jileasant drive of 22 miles through a very beautiful
country. If he jirefer to go by rail, he can leave the Intercolonial at -Spring Hill Junction

and make a journey of 32 miles on the Cumberland Railway. On the way he will see,
and may stop at the well-known Spring Hill Mines. Here stands a busy mining village
where twelve years ago were but a few farm houses. There are three slopes reaching a
depth of something like a thousand feet. The slack, or culm coal, is sent chiefly to the
United States ; the other kinds are used for home consumption.

PARRS BO RO

is a place with rare attractions, and is one of the most eligible summer-resorts in the
Maritime Provinces. On this point, its residents and its 'visitors are alike unanimous in
their opinion. Situate

" In the Acadian l^nd, on the shores of the Hasin of Minas,"

the scenery in its vicinity ranges from the serenely beautiful to the impressively grand.
Sea and land, mountain and valley, lakes, rivers, forest and field, all appear in their most
pleasing aspect and unite to form a most harmonious whole.

Parrsboro was settled by the American Loyalists, who, like their companions at the
mouth of the St. John named their settlement after Governor Parr. The village has now
about 1,200 inhabitants, and is a busy place during the summer months. Large quantities
of lumber from the mills in the surrounding country, and of coal from the Spring Hill
Mines ate shipped from this port. Vessels are continually arriving and departing. The
entries and clearances average about five each day and there were nearly a thousand in
all last season. Communication is had with St. John, Windsor, Kingsport and Wolfville by
steamer, a new, powerful and commodious one having been recently placed on the route.

The tourist who desires to avoid monotony, either of scenery or climate, will find
Parrsboro adapted to his wants. A little distance inland is the warm breath of summer,
"with spicy odors laden" from the forests and the fields, while upon the shore are the
gentle salt-water breezes, not raw and chilly as upon the Atlantic sea-board, but tempered
until they become most grateful to the senses. The fogs which sometimes enter the Bay
of Fundy rarely intrude here, and never remain sufticiently long to cause a feeling of
discomfort.

The most pleasant spot in the vicinity of Parrsboro is Partridge Island, about two
miles from the village. It is a peninsula with an area of fifty acres, but becomes an
island during high tides, when the water covers the low ground in the rear. From this
low ground the land rises grandly to a height of about 250 feet, and exposes a bold and
majestic bluff to the waters of the basin. Through the beautiful woods by which it is
covered, a road winds gracefully to the summit, the timber being cleared at intervals to
allow unobstructed views of the surrounding country. These views are simply glorious.
The Basin of Minas, famed for its beauty, is here seen to its bes. .J antage. A splendid
panorama ot sea and land flashes upon the spectator. Far (itv.u, where the waters of
Fundy become broad and deep, is seen Cape D'Or overlooking the bay. Nearer, as the
channel enters the basin, stand Capes Sharp and Split, like sentinels to guard the pass,
while Blomidon, rising from the waves, looks down ujjon the fair and fertile marshes of
cirand Pre— the land of Gabriel and Evangeline. Within the basin, the eye ranges far
up into Cobequid Bay and across to wherL- the broad waters of the Avon seek their journey
to the sea. All round the shores are seen the tokens of a goodly land and a prosperous
jieople. Here and there are islands of rare beauty, while on all sides the mountains,
valleys and plains, blend with a harmony which no painter can portray.

The " Ottawa House," at Partridge Island, is a first-class hotel, utider the manage-
ment of Mr. Tabor. It is located on a pleasant part of the shore, and will be found

adai)ted to tlio rLiiuircincMits oi tourists. An lioicl. wliic li is more for jirivalc board, is
also kc|>t liy Mr. Kclsoi-.

Ill ad(liti<in to I'artridgc Island, the drives and walks in the vicinity of I'arrsboro
are mniieroiis and most enjoyable. 'I'lie roads are always good, for the soil is of clean
gravel, and mini is miknowii at any season of the year. In whatever direction one goes,
there are roads upon which it is a pleasure to drive. If another good view is desired, a
drive of two miles up the basin to Krascr's Head, or Silver Crag, will be of advantag.e.
Cascade Valley, three or four miles from the village, has a picturestpie waterfall, and
another, having a descent of perhaps a hundred feet, is found at Moose River, seven
miles distant. ( )ne of the most attractive drives, however, is to the beautiful Five Islands,
twelve miles away. .Much of the mad thither is romantic in the extreme, iirescnting all
kinds of scenery. For four or tive miles the way lies in a gorge between the mountains,
while the towering cliffs overshadowing the scene awaken the most sublime emotions.
The beautv of Five Islands, loo, is something to be long remembered, and, indeed, the
place has long had a wide fame, among searchers tor the iiicturesciue in Nature. Many
pref.r to visit Five Islands by sail-boat, and excursions are very frecpient. The hotel
kept by Mrs. Ikoderick will be found worthy of patronage

Those who have never seen one of the curious natural roadways known as horse-
backs should take a drive in the direction of River Hebert. This horse back commences
at Fullerton's Bridge, ten miles from Parrsboro, and continues for about eight miles. It
much resembles a railway embankment, having the river on one side and low, marshy
land on the other. It formed part of the old .Military Road to Fort Cumberland, and
bears the not sjjecially poetical name of the Uoar's Hack.

Another pleasant drive is to Advocate Harbor, 30 miles down the shore ; t is

hardly necessary to name all of the many drives which are open to the visitor. . .,. are
all beautiful ones, through pictures(|ue valleys, amid mountains clothed with every variety
of toliage, and l)y brooks that murmur musically through woodland scenes.

.\s for tri])s in vachts and smaller boats, it is er.ough to say that the Basin of Minas
lies before one. Day after day may be spent around its siiores, visiting Blomidon, the
Islands, and the numerous peaceful bays. Sheltered from rude winds and heavy seas,
safe, capacious and beautiful, the lUisin has all that pleasure seekers may desire.

Thirteen miles to the north and west of Parrsboro, at Sand River, is found some of
the best caril)ou and moose hunting in Nova Scotia. Here there is a large area in which,
from the middle ot September to the last of January, an abundance of shooting may
be had, both of this game and of bears. Nearer to Parrsboro, are large numbers of
partridge, so jilenty indeed, that as many as thirty-two have been shot in one afternoon.
Geese, biant. ducks and other sea-shore game are abundant around the shores. This
part of the country always had a good reputation for sport. Two hundred and fifty years
ago, it is written, game was so ])lenty tiiat the Indians of this part of .\cadia had so little
exertion to make in hunting that they were considered sedentary in their habits. They
have almost disappeared, but the game is still to be found.

This is not notably a salmon country, though some are found in Partridge Island
and Five Island rivers, and are present, to a certain extent, in others. The trout tishing
is fair, there being plenty of medium size. I'artridge Islaiul, .Moose. Diligent and Half
Way rivers are the best fishing streams. .Some sport may also be had at Leak's Lake
antl Lake Pleasant, close to Parr>boro ; at Fullerton's Lake, nine miles away, and at
Gasjjereaux Lake, six or seven miles distant. Good salt water fishing may be had in the
IJasin. where cod. halibut, hake. |)ollock and haddock are found in abundance. Iresh
fish may, therefore, be had all through the season, while the best of farm products are

got from the surrounding country. It is a \,luv where farming can I)e followed with
profit, ;is is [iroved l)y the experience of Dr. 'I'ownsliend. Collector of Customs. In one
year he raised no less tiian 5^0 bushels of potatoes from one acre of ground. This
extraordinary yield shows that the coimtry is as substantial in its resources as it is
beautifid in its appearance, a lively combination of //fi/t- cum dulci\

Regaining the line of the Intercolonial at Spring Hill Jiniction, the visitor |)asses a
tine country, of which the settlements seen from the cirs convey no proper idea. At
Oxford, are extensive fiictories, one branch of mdtistry being the manufacture of the
celebrated Oxford cloths, wliic:h have a reputation which has sjjread even to distant lands.
At I'homson connection is made, by stage, with I'ugwash ; from {Ireenvillo, access is had
to the Westchester fishing groimds : and at Wentworth stages are taken to Wallace, 'I'ata-
magouche and New Annan. A visit to the flourishing villages on the north shore will

■■*(IB)i;.!, fl.«

*aiii£"'S":.,

=-;*fsa^*'

I'OI.l.Y vi.Mucr.

not be time spent in vain. 'I'he railway is now ascending the well known Cobequid
Moimtains, the simimit of which it attains at Folly Lake. 607 feet above the sea, the
highest i)oint on the line, with the excejition of the Summit on the other side of the
Metapediac Valley. The scenery while going over the moimtains is picturesque. At
times the valley is seen far below, the river flowing through its green intervales, and
again the train passes through cuttings where the rocks bear witness to the labor
involved in the construction of the road over the mountains. Over the Folly Valley is a
viaduct six hundred feet long and eighty-two feet high It is substantially built and
literally " founded upon a rock."

At Londonderry, a branch railway runs to the Acadian Iron Works three miles
distant, the operations of which will be of nuich interest to those not familiar with the
manufacture of iron from the ore. Stages also run to the mines, and \o C.reat \'illage,
K.conomv and I'ive Islands.

TRURO.

Less than a century and a quarter ago, the land where Truro stands was without a
habitation built by Anglo-Saxon hands. The first settlers found one or two old barns
which the French had built a few miles from the jjresent town, and being more matter-
of-fact than poetical, bestowed the i inie of Old Barns u|ion that part of the township,
This name survives until the present day, for the people of Nova Scotia hnve a pride in
being conservative, and in preservi;.^ their ancient landmarks. Fortunately for the
peace of the fashionable society of the town to-day, nothing old, not even a horse, was
found on the site of Truro, and so the settlement was honored with a rather euphonious
name. Well, it merits a pretty name, for it is a pretty place. The reader may possibly
get the idea that the term of '' pretty place " is getting somewhat monotonous in these
pages, but he must remember that there are various degrees of beauty in places as well as
people. Besides, such adjectives as " pretty," when applied to places, and " beautiful,"
when api)lied to scenery, are too convenient to be ignored for the sake of synonyms in
less general use. Truro, therefore, is pretty, and every visitor must endorse the state-
ment. Its long, wide streets are adorned with shade trees, the houses have lawns and
flower gardens beautifully arranged, and the entire town presents a neat and attractive
ap])earance. Yet the town is more than good looking ; it is active and enterprising.
Quite a number.of factories, of various kinds, are in operation, and others are projected.
The stores do a brisk business ; some of the merchants are direct importers to a large
amount ; and, as a whole, tiie commercial aspect makes a favorable impression on the
mind of the visitor. The population of the town is between five and six thousand. The
Provincial, Normal and Model schools are noteworthy features of the place, while
numerous other buildings of a substantial character are found in the various streets.
Hotels, too, are abundant. .Several are located near the station, but the "Prince of Wales,"
in the upper part of the town, has the most pleasant location for tourists. It is situated
near the County Buildings and faces the public scpiare.

While at Parrsboro, the visitor had a chance of looking up to Cobequid Bay. From
Truro he can reverse the picture and look down. By ascending Penny's Mountain, three
miles from the Court House, a sjjlendid v'-^w is had of the Bay, taking in the range of
the North Mountains, terminating at Blomidon, while the river meanders gracefully
through the valley on its way to the troubled waters of Fundy. From Wollaston Heights,
a mile from the Court House, is found another fine view of the surrounding country,
while the best views of the town, down to the bay, are had from Wimburn and Foundry
Hills. A drive to Clifton will be found of interest, stopping at Savage's Island, a mile
and a half from the town. Here are the traces of a former Indian burial ground, but
this circumstance did not give rise to the name of the island. It was called after an old-
time owner of the soil — a .Savage by name, but not by nature. The wooden monuments
of the ancient race can still be seen ; and at times the tide, washing away portions of the
bank, lays bare the bones of those long since de|)arted '' to the Kingdom of Ponemah."
The Shubenacadie has a bore similar to that of Petitcodiac which may be seen rushing
past the island. After one has seen water coming up here, he can return to Truro and
see it going down, in a picturesque cascade, on Lei)er's Brook, half a mile from the town.
No one seems to know how this brook got its peculiar name, but as there is no record of
any lejier in this ])art of Canada, the word is i^rohably a corruption of some French
name. It may be from Laper, to lap, or from Lapcreau, a young rabbit, or from one of
a do/en other words. It does't make any difference. Another curious name is that of
Bible Hill, which is a beautiful jmrt of Truro. .Sam Slick spoke of it as "a situation of

.47

most consummate beauty," and he was a good judge of nature — as well as of human nature.

If one has not seen the Acadian Mines, a drive to them from I'ruio. a distance of
20 miles is well worth the trouble. The road is good and the scsnery tine. Another
drive of 20 miles over Tatamagouche Mountains to Farm Lake takes one through a rich
variety of Mountain scenery. All the trees of the forest are to be seen on the road, at
times on lofty hills, at times in pleasant vales. In many places the branches over-arch
the road, and amid these umbrageous shades, the voices of the birds and the muM( of
the brooks falls sweetly on the ear. At the lake, elevated over a thousand feet abovf the
sea, the fisherman may enjoy a calm content amid Nature's beauties, and have a hirther
reward in an abundance of excellent trout. Lake trout of the best quality are found in
all of the numerous lakes in this vicinity.

The fishing -t round Truro is chiefly confined to trout. Salmon exist, but the pursuit
of them is usually under difficulties. Sometimes they take the fly, but more times they
don't. The North and Salmon Rivers have been re-stocked from the government
establishment at Bedford, and will doubtless afford good sport, in time. In the latter river
fish known as graylings are caught in large (piantities. Some allege that this fish is a
trout and others that it is a young salmon. Whatever it may be, it is a lively fish under
the rod. It ranqes from two to six pounds in weight. When large salmon are caught in
this river, it is u. the month of -August. None of the Nova Scotia rivers are under lease
for salmon, and it costs nothing to try one's luck, which may, at times, prove very good.
The Shubenacadie and Stewiacke Rivers are worth a trial, and Crystal Lake, near Brook-
field, has afforded sport in the past. In the last named rivers the "Admiral" is the
favorite fly. Trout and grayling are found in the streams already named, in the Folly
and Debert Rivers, and in Folly Lake The latter is a pretty sheet of water with clusters
of islands, and boats are kept for the use of visitors. I'his lake has also been stocked
with white fish from Ontario. The '' Red Hackle'' is a good fly for any of the lakes ;
the " Brown Hackle " is good in all places ; while the '• May Fly " does excellent service
in the early parr of the season.

A thick forest covers almost all of the range of Mountains from Truro to Tatamagouche
Bay, and naturally affords good sport. The best moose ground, however, is among the
.Stewiacke Mountains, commencing, say. fourteen nules from the town. Johnson's Crossing,
five miles, and Riversdale. twelve miles, have also good reputations. Caribou are migratory,
and not to be depen(ied on. but a likely place for them is at I'embroke, twenty-three
miles distant. Indian guides can be hired in Truro for about a dollar a day. They will
do all the cooking and camp work, and are to be relied on in matters of woodcraft.

Partridge are plenty, and after the latter part of July, snipe, plover, and curlew may
be bagged on tiie marshes within a himdred yards of the Court House. Ducks, geese,
and brant, frequent the lakes in the fixll and spring.

The most profitable kind of game in this coiuity is the fox. The silver and gray
reynards are not to be desjjised ; but that rare and valuable creature, the black fox, means
something over a hinulred dollars a pelt. t)ne of the residents struck a bonanza last
winter by trapping four of them, and exchanged their skins for over four hundred dollars
in cash. It is but just to add that black foxes are not sufticiently numerous to be a
nuisance to the farmers, nor is the trai^ping of them to be depended on as a permanent
means of livelihood.

D O W N A .\1 O N ( 'r '1' H K C O A L .\I 1 N F S .

The branch of the Intercolonial which joins the main line at Tiuro, passes through
the most extensive of the Nova Scotia coal-fields, and ends at Ficiou, on the Cni\{ oT

St. Lawrence. Coal is king in tivs part of tlie country, and to speak of a respected
resident as a "Carboniferous" man, is simply a compliment equivalent to "as good as
gold" in other places. It answers the same purpose to say that his conduct as citizen is
solidly "based upon conglomerate and amygdaloidal trap;" it is purely a matter of taste
as to which is the more elegant term.

Nova Scotia is a very {-arbonifcrous sort of country. Coal seams are found in a great
many places, while in some instances the deposits are something of which the term

" immense ' gives the best conception of the area and
del It h. I'lc strata seen at the Joggins mines, where the
sea washes the cliffs, is said to he the best display of the
kind in the woild. The Pictou field is a continuation of
the same field — the great Nova Scotia Coal field, with its
76 seams of coal and a thickness of no less than 14,750
feet of dei)0sits. It took a long time for all this to form.
It was so long ago. that every kind of animal which roamed
in the forests of the jjeriod has been extinct for thousands
of years. Ves, the coal fields are pretty old ; it took ages
to form each one of the seams ; and yet when the fisherman
baiks his shins on the granite rocks of the Nepisiguit he feels something a good deal
older than the coal. It may mitigate his wrath and repress his profanity to know that
he is bruised by what was ]iart of the bottom of an ocean, " liefore a single plant had
been called into existence of the myriads entombed in the coal deposits." So it will be
seen that coal is cjuite x parvenu, as compared with some of the old geological families ;
but it is old enough fir all practicil puriioses where man is concerned.

'I'o sav that the scenery along the line from 'I'riuo to New Clasgow is magnificent,
would be an unwarrantable departure from the standard of probity elevated by the late
talented [iroprietor of Mt. X'ernon, Virginia. It is not interesting, and that is all that is
necessar\- \o be said. Stellarlon, where some of the celebrated coal mines are situated,
is fortv miles from Truro, and three miles bevond this is

NKW (; l..\S(i()\V.

The names of the place and nf its residents are in comjilete harmony. Here, as in
other ])arts of I'ictou Cminiy. everything is as essentially .Scotch as it can be after a
growth of a ceiitury on the soil of America. Old and immortal names in Scotland's
history adorn shop after shop and descendants of those who fought with Bruce and
Wallace stand behind the counters, surrounded by all the insignia of peace. I.'cw (llas-
gow is a town in which a great deal of industry is manifest. Many fine vessels have
been built here, and iron Works. Steel Works and Class Works sjieak most favorably fi>r
its enterpris.'. It has some fine buildings, the Masonic Hall among the number, and a
full supply of hotels. The Kastern Kxtension Railway runs trom here to the Strait
of Canseau. and affords an easy means of communicition with the island of Cape Ureton.

The nearest place from which a good view of the surrounding country can be
had is I'Vaser's .Mountain, about a mile and a half tVom the town. This view takes
in I'rinc- IMward Island. I'iclou and I'ictou Island, and down the shore as far as
Cape St (leoige. besides the c nnitry in the rear. He who wants to see coalmines
and some good scenery as well, should drive to St'.llarton, through the collieries, calling
also at .Middle River and winding up at 1 it/patrick's Mountain, fireeii Hill. Krom
the latter place the < oinitry cm be seen in all directions fi)r a distance of something
Hke fiirty miles. A dri\e to Little Harbor, six or seven miles, and a b.ithe in the salt-

water is also "not hard to take." At Sutherland's River, six miles distant^is a fine waterfall
with i)icturesque surroundings.

Gentle reader, were you ever in a coal mine? If not, and not likely to be, get some
able-bodied friend, a tub and a rope, and allow the former to lower the latter and yourself
into a dark, damp and not over clean cellar where there is a coal bin. This method is
cheaj), safe and convenient, and Jias many ])oints of resemblance to the genuine article.
If you must visit a mine, however, visit one of those in Pictou County. \ou will have
no trouble in finding one, and after rambling among the darkness a thousand feet or so
under the earth, you will feel glad to see daylight again. .Some one has said that no one
can appreciate cold water so well as a man who suffers from the thirst following a debauch ;
no one can better realize the beauty of green fields, the blessing of pure air, and the glory
of the sunlight than one who has been down among the coal mines.

PICTOU ■ '

is an old, important and well-known town. The harbor is a beautiful and well sheltered
one— the best in this part of Nova Scotia. The town, rising on a hill, makes a particu-
larly good appearance from the water. A closer inspection shows some fine buildings,
such as the Custom House, Court House, Christian Association Building, Pictou
Academy, the Convent. Chajiel, and a number of Churches. Vessels of all sizes and
rigs are in the harbor and at the wharves, and the scene is altogether an inspiriting one.
The town does a large shipping business, and vast quantities of coal are sent from here
to places near and far. Business of other kinds is brisk, and large numbers of travellers
visit the place during the summer. A line of steamers runs to Prince Edward Island
— the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Co. making four trips a week to Charlottetown.

Some good scenery may be found in the vicinity of Pictou. In the town an
admirable view of the surrounding country and the waters to the north and east
may be enjoyed from the roof of the Academy. Dii.es in the vicinity of East, West
and Middle Rivers will also rv< ay one. Fitzpatrick '^ Mountain and Green Hill have
already been mentioned, and another good ' \r\\ is from Mount Thom. Another
drive is down the shore to Caribou Point i.iueen Caribou River and River

John. For bathing, a good i)lace is at Caiiln. i^i, less tliMii two miles fri-m ih.
town, where there is a fine- sandy beach, other good harb-ig places and gouii \ lews
may also be found with little trouble. The county, with . low land along the shores
and hills and valleys in the interior, its lakes and its rivers, his many sci. es of real
beauty for the lover of Nature.

The fishing in the county is cliietly confined to trout. Salmon enter the sti 'ams
only in the spawning season, about tlie fir>t of September, and go out licfore the ice
begins to form.

The trout streams are Harney's. French and Sutherland Rivers and River John. These
liave good sea trout during the siunnier. .Middle and West Risers have snial' runs of
trout, but, taken as a whole, the rivers in this vicinity have been jjretty well " ' ,iod out."
I'ine trout are. however, taken at times in Ma])le and Mctjaanie's Lakr >ome good
s|)ort may be found in fishing for mackerel, cod, etc.. on the coast.

The countr}' to the southward of I'ictou has an abundanre of moose. Let one take
a trip, with guides, from West Kiver. through Gleng.iny, Stewiacke, Nelson's and Sunny
Brae, and over to Caledonia, or Guysboro, and he is pretty sure to have fair luck.
(Jaribou are foimd at times, but moose is the chief game to be relied on. Bears are
plenty, and s( iij partridge, .\long the shore, snipe, plover, curlew, geese and all kinds
of ducks are fi)un(l in large numbers.

so
ANNO M U R I U M .

Somewhere around this i)art of Nova Scotia the stranger may be fortunate enough
to find one of the very oldest inhabitants who was an eve-witness to those most extra-
ordinary events which happened in tiie Year of the Mice. The younger generation
appear to know little about it, though it was a memorable epoch in the history of the
country. It was, in fact, a plague of mice, which visited Pictou, Colchester and Antigonish,
as well as Ifuice Edward Island. As long ago as 1699, Dierville wrote that the latter
place had a plague either of mice or locusts every seven years, but in more modern
times the phenomenon has lieen witnessed but once. That once was enough.

It was in the year 181 5 that the mice took a ''Cirand Farewell Benefit," in the
presence of a large but far from admiring audience. They began to show themselves at
that period in the year when the Spring Poet warbles and the saji runs from the maples.
By ])lanting time their numbers had augmented to an extent which struck terror to the
hearts of the people: and the cry was; "Still they come!" They were not little field
mice, such as Burns has immortalized, but were more nearly of the size of rats. If Burns
had been there he would not have stopped to write poetry, but would have got out a field
roller ai, J crushed them by the thousand. They ate everything that mice can eat, and nearly
ate up the jjeuple. for when molested they sat on their haunches and squealed defiance
with their glistening t«.eth hiid bare. As with the rats at Hamelin Town in Brunswick:

" Tlu-y foii(;lU till' d()L;s and killed the cits,
Made nests inside men's Sunday hats,
And even spoile<i tlie women's chats,

Hy shrieking and squeaking
In lifty chl'lerenl sliarps and flats."

It took a brave dog to face a mob of them, and ordinary cats proved that good
generalship is often shown by a timely and skilful retreat. Dr. Patterson, in his History
of Pictou. is authority for the statement a farmer attemiJted to sow oats at Merigomish,
and was disgusted to find that the mice ate them as fast as he sowed. Finding that his
labor simjjly amotuited to feeding part of a hungry horde, he finally got out of patience,
threw all his oats at them and went home in intense disgust. Spreading over the country
as the season advanced, they devoured all before them. Acres were stripped of growing
crops, and still the mice grew and their appetites increased apace. Trenches were dug,
and all sorts of expedients resorted to, Init in vain. The mice (juestion became an
absorbing one, when all at once the intruders made up their minds to get uj) and get.
But, Hke the army of Napoleon in Russia, and the followers of De .Soto to the Mississijjpi,
death marched in their midst. Thousands -of those that had achieved such brilliant
conquests lay down and died. Thousands more reached the sea-shore, but only to die.
.Ml along the coast their bodies lay piletl up in masses like lines of sea-weed, and for
many weeks the fish caught in the bays were found to have their maws filled with the
remains of the annihilatecKarmy of mice.

For many years after this remarkable visitation, it was the custom of many of the
])eople to reckon births, marriages, deaths, etc.. as beiuL' such and such a time after the
year of the mice. yUuio Muriinn took the jilace of A 1,110 Pomini : but as succeeding
generations grew up, this system of ( hronology became obsolete; and it has long since
ceased to be known, save to the ones who "were there and helped kill 'em."

A N r I G O N I S H .

If you want to find able-bodied men, go to Antigonish. Here you will find the
descendants of Highlanders who look able for all comers. Six feet and odd inches tall
are they, and stout in proportion.

Antigonish is called the prettiest village in Eastern Nova Scotia. Its neat, tidy
dwellings stand amid beautiful shade trees on low ground, while the hills rise in graceful
cones near at hand. Among these hills are sweet and pleasant valleys and the brooks
are as clear as crystal. The village is the capital of the county, and is also the seat of
the Bishop of Antigonish. St. Ninian's Cathedral is a fine edifice, built of stone and
erected at a large expense. It is said to seat about 1,200 persons. St. Francois Xavier
College is situated near it, and has a large attendance. The community is largely

l-AI.I.S <)I' TIIK TAKT.\(U1-; RIVEK.

composed of Scotch Catholics, and as many of the older people speak (jaelic only,
sermons are preached in tiiat as well as the English language. The harbor is eight
miles from tlie village and has a good, though rather shallow, beach. The village has
several hotels.

'I'hough the word "Antigonish" means Hig Fish River, yet the fi.shing in this vicinity
does not amount to much. The shooting, also, is |)oor. but good scenery is plenty. The
" Lord's Day (Jalo " and other storms have done a large amount of injury to the forests,
but enough beauty remains to satisfy the sightseer. By all odds, the most attractive spot
is at L()chai)er Lake, on the road to Siierbrooke, six miles from the village. This lake is
about six miles long .uul the road runs along its bank for the entire distance, amid foliage
of the most ;ittractive iliaiacter. The wattr is very ileep. and remarkably clear and pure.

while the banks rise abruptly from it and have a very beautiful effect. It was of this
lake that the late Hon. Joseph Howe said,

" Far down the ancient trees reflected lie,

Stem, branch and leaf, like fairy tracery, ■ :-.*. '

Wave 'round the homes of some enchanting race.
The guardian nymphs of this delightful place."

The Sherbrooke road is a good way by which to reach some of the fishing and
hunting grounds of Guysboro. By going about 20 miles St. Mary's River is reached, at
the Forks. Here there is good fishing, all along the river, and good accommodation may
be had at Melrose. From here to the Stillwater Salmon Pools is seven miles, and some
fine salmon may be caught. Slierbrooke, a few miles lower down, is a very pretty place,
and here one may catch not only fine sea trout, but salmon ranging from fifteen to forty
pounds in weight. The fly best suited to this river is one with light yellow body and dark
yellow wings. In the other salmon rivers the " .Admiral " is a favorite, as well as another
with turkey wing, gray body and golden fihcasant tail. Guysboro Lakes have fine trout
in them. The mountains of this county, too, are the haunts of moose and caribou. It
is an excellent country for sjiort.

Following the railway from .\ntigonish, one may stop at Tracadie, where there is a
fine harbor and a splendid view of St. George's Bay and the Gulf 'I'here is fair fishing
in the vicinity. Here there is a Trappist Monastery, the brothers of which have mills in
operation and are also expert farmers. Nearly all the land in the county is fertile, and
fruit can be raised with good success. There is also an Indian Reservation at Tracadie,
and plenty of the aborigines are found along the shore.

'i'he railway runs down to the Strait of Canseau amid picturesque mountains, with
fine views of tiie Bay to the north, as far as Cape St. George. On reaching Pirates'
Harbor, a brakesman puzzles the traveller by shouting, "Strait of Canseau I All who are
going to take the boat stay aboard this car I" This does not mean that the car and boat
cross in company, but that the train will run up to Port Mulgrave, the deep water terminus.
Before going, however, onf; will want to see a little of this side of this famous Strait.

The Strait of Canse.iu. the great highway between the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the
North Atlantic coast, is some fourteen miles in length and about a mile in width. It is
of itself a picture worth coming far to see, on account of its natural beauty ; but when
on a sunnner's day hundreds of sail are passing through, the scene is one to delight an
artist's .soul. On the Nova .Scotia side the land is high and affords a glorious view, both
of the Strait and of the western section of Cape Breton. The prospect both up and
down the strait is pleasing in the extreme.

At Pirates' Harbor there is excellent bathing and some bold and im])ressive scenery.
.Some fair trout fishing may be found near at hand. Morrison's Lake which lies imder
the shadow of Mount Porcupine, is two miles from the wharf, and is reached by an easy
road. Big Tracadie Lake is three and a half miles distant ; and Chisholm's Lake lies
between the one last mentioned and the highway. The road is a good one and througli
a settled country To the southward of ilu' wharf are the Goose Harl);)r Lakes, a chain
which extends from three miles beyond Pirates Harbor to the southern coast of Guysboro.

CAPF. BR F TON.

The limits of this work will allow but a passing glance at this valuable portion of
Nova .Scotia — a ])lace which retains so much of its natural and primeval beauty, and
which evokes the warmest praises from all who journey over its face or traverse its noble
waters.

irtion of
uty, ami
its noble

Taking the Railway ferry steamer at Mulgrave, the trip across the strait is soon
made. On the way a headland to the northward, on the Nova Scotia side, will attract
some attention. It is Cape Porcupine, and from its summit the telegraph wires once
crossed to Piaister Cove, high over the waters. 'Ihe strongest of wires were used, but
breaks would occur at times and then all cable business between England and America,
by the way of Newfoundland, had to wait until the break was repaired. .Submarine
cables are now used and give less trouble. Arriving at Port Hawkesbiiry the traveller
can take a steamship which makes daily connections with trains, and lands passengers at
the head of East Bay, ten miles from Sydney. Another steamer makes a trip every
second day. These steamers call at St. Peter's Canal, and then proceed up the famed
Bras D'Or.

Who can describe the beauties of this strange ocean lake, this imprisoned sea
which devides an island in twain? For about fifty miles its waters are sheltered
from the ocean of which it forms a part, and in this length it expands into bays,
inlets, and romantic havens, with islands, peninsulas and broken lines of coast — all
combining to form a scene of rare beauty, surpassing the power of pen to describe.
At every turn new features claim our wonder and admiration. Here a cluster of
fairy isles, here some meandering stream, and here some narrow strait leading into a
broad and peaceful bay. High above tower the mountains, with their ancient forests,
while at times bold cliffs, crowned with verdure, rise majestically toward the clouds.
Nothing is common, nothing tame ; all is fitted to fill the mind with emotions ol keenest
pleasure.

Sydney is an old and eminently respectable town. The Sydney coal is known
wherever coal is burned, and tlie quantity of this article available in the coal fields of the
island is estimated at a thousand million tons. This does not include seams under four
feet in thickness, nor the vast body of coal which lies under the bed of the ocean between
Cape Breton and Newfoundland.' Sydney has a splendid harbor, and is a coaling port for
ocean steamers. It is a pleasant place to visit, and is well supplied with hotels and
private boarding houses.

North Sydney is a lively business place, and is reached from Sydney by a ferry
steamer, making three trips daily, and by a daily stage. Stages also run to Glace Bay,
I.ingan, Cow Bay. and all other points of interest. The chief hotels at North Sydney
are the Presto and Behtiont.

While space will not allow even a mention of many of the places of interest in Cape
Breton, there is one which merits more than a passing notice. It is Louisbourg, once one
of the strongest fortified cities of the world, but now a grass-grown ruin where not one
stone is left upon another. Once it was a city with walls of stone which nade a circuit
of two and a half miles, were thirty-six feet high, and of the thickness of forty feet at
the base. For twenty-five years the French had labored upon it, and had expended
upwards of thirty millions of livres in completing its defences. It was called the Dunkirk
of America. Oarrisoned by the veterans of France, and with powerful batteries com-
manding every [)oint, it bristled with the most potent pride of war. To-day it is difficult
to trace its site among the turf which marks the ruins. Seldom has demolition been
more complete. It seemed built for all time; it has vanished from the face of the
earth.

Every New Englander should visit Louisbourg. Its capture by the undisciplined
New England farmers, commanded by William Pepi)eral, a merchant ignorant of the art
of war, is one of the most extraordinary events in the annals of history. The zealous
crusaders set forth upon a task, of the difficulties of which they had no conception, and

WtV

they gained a triumph which should make their names as immortal as those of the " noble
six hundred." It was a feat without a parallel— a marvel among the most marvellous
deeds which man has dared to do.

Restored to France by the peace of Aix la Chapelle, Louisbourg was again the
stronghold of France on the Atlantic coast, and French veterans held Cape Breton,
the key to the Gulf of Si. Lawrence. The brief truce was soon broken, and then
came the armies of England, and Wolfe sought and won his first laurels in the new
world. Louisbourg fell once more and the knell of its glory was rung. The conquest
of Canada achieved, the edict went forth that Louisbourg should be destroyed. The
work of demolition was commenced. The solid buildings, formed of stone brought
from France, were torn to pieces ; the walls were pulled down, and the batteries
rendered useless for all time. It took two years to complete the work of destruction,
and then the once proud city was a shapeless ruin. Years passed by ; the stones were
carried away by the dwellers along the coast ; and the hand of time was left to finish
the work of obliteration. Time has been more merciful than man ; it has covered the
gloomy ruins with a mantle of green and has healed the gaping wounds which once
rendered ghastly the land which Nature made so fair. The surges of the Atlantic
sound mournfully upon the shore — the reijuiem of Louisbourg, the city made
desolate.

Another Louisbourg exists to-day, across the harbor from the site of the former
city. It has a population of about looo and is reached by the Sydney & Louisbourg
Railway, a narrow gauge line, 31 miles in length. The fare from Sydney is only 75
cents and tourists should make the trip. Some fine scenery is found on the road at
Catalone Lake and Mire. The Louisbourg Land Co.'s Hotel affords good accommo-
dation ; and apart from its historic interest the place is worthy of a visit. The site of
old Louisbourg may be visited and the lines of some of the fortifications traced, and
one who has a history which gives a good account 'bf the sieges may be interested
and instructed in lollowing out the plans of the attacking parties. Then there is a
magnificent harbor which opens on the broad ocean, and one may enjoy all the
pleasures of life by the sea-shore. The views are admirable, and altogether a large
amount of pleasure may be had.

Lake Ainslie and the Margarie River are great fishing resorts on the Island, having
both salmon and trout. They are reached by going to Port Hastings and travelling
from twenty to thirty-five miles, by road. River Dennis, another good locality, is
reached by taking one of the Bras D'Or steamers to VVhycocomogh. Other good
fishing may be had in the various streams of the Island.

The counties of Inverness and Victoria occupy the northern part of Cape
Breton, and are to a great extent wild and unsettled. Taking the steamer to
Baddeck a few hours' journey will take one into a country where moose and caribou
are plenty, and where he nipy either camp out among the mountains in the depth of
the forest or make his head-quarters among the well-to-do farmers in the occasional
settlements.

Cape North and Cape St. Lawrence are the extreme northerly points of the Island
and from llie former to Newfoundland is a little over sixty miles. The ocean cable is
landed at A spy Bay.

From Cape St. Lawrence it is only fifty miles to the Magdalen Islands. These
waters have seen terrible destruction of life and property. One of the most notable
was the Lord's Day Gale, of 23rd August, 1873, which carried mourning to the homes
of so many fishermen's families in Massachusetts and the Provinces. Traces of this

BP^PTT'

tei
de

ink
par
Lai
the

terrible gale are to be found all along the shore on this part of the Gulf The graphic
description by E. C. Stedman is only too faithful :

Ca|ie Hreton and Edward Isle Jjetween,

In strait and gulf tlie schooners lay ;
The sea was all at peace, I ween,

The night before that Aiifjust day ;
Was never a Gloucester skipper there.
But thought erelong, with a right fjoiKl fare,

To sail fur home from St. Lawrence May.

The East Wind gathered all unknown,—

A thick sea-cloud his course before ;
He left by right the frozen zone

And smote the cliffs of I^brador ;
He lashed the const on either hand,
And betwixt the Cajie and Newfoundland

Into the Hay his armies pour.

He caught our help'ess cruisers there

As a gray wolf harries the huddling fold ;
A sleet — a darkness— tilled the air,

A shuddering wave before it rolled :
That Lord's Day morn it was a breeze, —
At noon, a blast that shook the seas, —

At night— a wind of death took hold !

From Saint Paul's light to Edward Isle

A thousand craft it smote amain ;
And some against it strove the while.

And more to make a port were fain :
The mackerel gulls flew screaming past,
And the stick that bent to the noonday blast

Was split by the sundown hurricane.

There were twenty and more of Breton sail,

Fast anchored on one mooring ground;
Each lay within his neighbor's hail.

When the thick of the tempest closed them round :
All sank at once in the gaping sea, —
Somewhere on the shoals their corses be.

The foundered hulks, and the seamen drowned.

On reef and bar our schooners drove

Before the wind, before the swell ;
By the steep sand cliff their ribs were stove, —

Long, long their crews the tale shall tell !
Of the Ciloucester fleet are w recks three score ;
Of the Province sail two hundred more

\Nere stranded in that tempest fell.

TRURO TO HALIFAX.

An abrupt transition from the wild and rugged scenery of Cape Breton to the fair
inland villages of Colchester, and soon we are among the Stewiackes. This is a fine
part of the country, the most flourishing i)ortion of which is not seen from the railway.
Large tracts of rich intervale and excellent ui)lan(l make the district a good one for
the farmer. — one of the finest in Nova Scotia. Through this district flows the Stewiacke

rivt-r. whirh takes its rise ainonj,' the liills of Pictou and flows for forty miles, or so,
until it empties into the Siiiilienaiadie at I'"(irt Kilis. The Shul)enaca(lie is a large and
swift stream, and was at one time looked iijion as the future higliway of cominerie
across the Province. Mure than half a century ago the people of Halifax grew excited
over the idea that the trade of the basin of Minas was l)eing carried to St. J«)hn.
Nature had placed a chain of lakes at the source of the river, and it would seem that
art would have little irouhle in constructing a canal. .Meetings were held, surveys and
speeches were made, money was subscribed and the work was cominenced. It was
never finished, and never will be. The enthusiasm subsidetl, the supplies ceased, and
the (Ireat Shubenacadie Canal was abandoned. I'he ruins still exist, but the railway
has taken the jilace of a i anal for all time to come.

Hoth the Stewiacke and Shubenacadie have good tishing, and so have the lakes
beyond the latter as Windsor junction is ajjproached. Cirand Lake has fine grayling
fishing in June, July. Sejitember and ( )clol)er. Some years ago. i jo.ooo whitefish were
put into this lake and are doing well. .\11 the lakes of Halifax county afford good
fishing, but the rivers, with a few exceptions, are short and rapid streams which become
very low during the summer season.

The country from Shubenacadie, east to Canseau abounds with moose and other
game, as has already been intimated in connection with (juysljoro.

Windsor Juiu tion. 14 miles from Halifax, has admirable facilities for the pasturage
of goats, and the procuring of ballast for breakwaters. Here the line branches off 10
Windsor, and down the Annapolis Valley by the W. \ A. Railway. Passing by the
Junction, the next station is Bedford, nine miles t'roni Halifax, and here is seen the
upper end of that beautiful sheet of water — Hedford Hasin. Along its shores the train
passes and as the city becomes nearer the beauty of the scene increases. At length
the ( ity is reacheil and the tra\cller alights in one of the tinest of the Intercolonial
structures, the North Street Dejiot.

H .\ I, 1 FA X.

Hverybody has heard of Halifax, the city by the sea, and of its lair and famous
harbor. This harbor they have been told, is one of the finest in the world — a haven
in which a thousand ships may rest secure, and yet but a little removed from the broad
ocean highway which unites the eastern ami the western worlds. They have been told,
also, that this harbor is alw.iys accessible and always safe; and all of this, though true
enough, does the harlK)r of Halifax Ijui scanty justice. All harbors have more or less
of merit, but few are like this ouv. Here there is something more than merely a
roomy and safe haven — something to claim more than a passing glance. 'I'o understand
this we must know something of the topogra|)hy of the city.

Halifax is loi aled on ,1 peninsula and founded on a rock. I'last and west of it the
sea comes in. nilii)ed of its terror.-, and ajipearing only as a thing of beauty. The
water on the west is the N'orlhwest Arm. a stretch of water about three miles in length
and a ([uarter of a mile in width. 'I'o the south and east is the harbor, which narrows
as it rea( lies the upper end of the city and expands again into Ik-dford Hasin, with its
ten s(iuarc miles of safe ancjiorage. 'i'he basin terminates at a distance of nine miles
from the city, and is navigable for the whole distance. The city proper is on the
eastern slojie of the isthmus and rises fniin the water to a height of 256 feet at the
citadel. On the easiuni side of the harbor :s the town of Dartmouth. In the harbor,
and commanding all parts of it, is the strongly fortified (leorge's Island, while at the
entrance, three miles below. i> Mi.Nab's Island, which effectually guards the passage

it the
The
[length
lirrows
lilh its
mik's
1)11 the
at the
[arbor,
lat the
ass age

.. i... "HS. '.' .'l.'JA

■ On

INTKRCOI.ONIAI. KAII.WAV STATION, HALIFAX.

from the sea. This is a brief and dry description of the city. It would be just as
easy to make a longer and more gushing one, but when i)eople are going to see a place
for themselves they don't take the bother to wade through a long account of metes,
bounds and salient angles. Halifax must be seen to be appreciated.

Halifax is a strong city in every way. It has great strength in a military point of
view ; it has so many solid men that it is a tower of strength financially ; it is strongly
British in its manners, customs and sympathies : and it has strong attractions for
visitors. Let us analyze some of these jjoints of strength.

First, the military. There was a time when the military element was necessarily
the first to be considered. One of the first acts of the first settlers was to fire a salute
in honor of their arrival, and as soon as Governor Cornwallis had a roof to shelter his
head, they placed a couple of cannon to defend it and mounted a guard. They had
need of military. Indians saw in tiieir arrival a probable "boom" in scalps, and every
Indian in the neighborhood sharpened his knife for the anticipated '' hum." These
Indians were neither the devotional ones whom Cowper holds up for the imitation of
Sunday-school scholars, nor yet the playful and docile ones who borrowed tobacco of
the late AVilliam I'enn. They were savages, as destitute of pity and sentiment as they
were of decent clothes. It was, therefore, essential that the men of Halifax should be
of a military turn of mind, and every boy and man. from sixteen to sixty years of age,
did duty in the ranks of the militia. Later the town became an imi)ortant military and
naval station ; ships of the line made their rendezvous in the harbor and some of
England's bravest veterans were quartered in its barracks. Princes, dukes, lords,
admirals, generals, captains and colonels walked the streets from time to time, guns
boomed, flags waved, driuns beat and bugles sounded, so that the pride and panoply
of war were ever before the peojile. And so they are to-day. The uniform is seen on
everv street, and fortifications meet the eye at every ijromineiu point.

Chief among the fortification-^ is the Citadel, which crowns the city, commenced
by the Duke of Kent, and altered, varied and transposed, until it has become a model
of military skill. Its history has been a peaceful one and is likely to be. If it should
be assailed it ap[iears well able fi)r a siege. The citizens, too. are truly loyal to the
Crown ; and the people who expect to hurrah when the British Hag is lowered in

T'l'

• - 5*

submission to I'roviiu i;il Honif RiiiiTs or foreign foes will have a long while to wail.
Visitors are allowed to iiisjiect the works, hut the man who always follows Captain
Cuttle's advice to make a note of what he --ees. is reeommended. to refrain from using
])en< il and piper within the limits of any of the forts. It is had taste; and, besides,
the authorities will not permit it.

The seeker after a good view of the eity and it> surroundings may have the very
l)est from the Citadel. It commands land and water for many miles. The Arm, the
Basin, the Harbor with its islands, the sea with its ships, the distant hills and forests,
the fit) with its lius\ streets — all are present to the eye m a beautiful and varied
panorama. Dartmouth, across the harbor, is seen to tine advantage, while on the
waters around the ritv are seen the shi|)s of all the nations of the earth. No amount
of elaborate word-painting would do justice to the view on a tine summer's day. It
must be seen, and once seen it will not be forgotten.

The fortifications on McXab's and (ieorge's Islands, as well as the various forts
around the shore, are all worthy of a visit. After they have been seen, the visitor will
have no doubts as to the exceeding strength of Halifax above all the cities of .America.
The Dockvard, v.ith spk'iulitl examples of England's naval power, is also an exceedingly
interesting ]ilace, ami always presents a jjicture ol busy life in which the "oak-hearted
tars" are a ]>rominent feature.

The liiiancial strength of Halifax is a|)|)arent at a glance. It is a very wealthy city,
and as its i)eople have never had a mania tor speculation, tiie progress to wealth has
been a sure one. The business nun have always had a s|)leiulid reputation for reliability
and honorable dealing. The banks are safe, though the ])eople did business until
( omjiarativelv recent times without feeling that such institutions wx're necessarx . A
Cash business and s]iecie ])a\nieiits suited their wants. .\t length several leailing men
started a bank, 'i'lie) had no charter and were surrounded by no legislative enact-
ments. .No oiH' knew how nni( h capital they had. or wh.ii amount ot notes thev ha<l
in circulation. .No one careil, Ihey were "' solid men." and that was enougii , aiul so
they went on lor \ears -always having the rontiilence of the public and alwa\s being
as ^at'e as any b.ink in .\inenca. i'he chartered banks iioh do the work, but the solitl
men of Halil'ax are siill to be fotnid. m business ami out of it.

Halifax is the most iiritish c;iiv on the continent. 1 .ong association with the arm\
and n,i\ \ has a(Com]ilished this. There are some I'roMiicial people who after a six-
months >oiourn 111 the I nited Si, lies are \er\ much more Ameri< an than the simon-
imre N'ankcL. j'his ( .mkl not ha|ipeii to the i iti/en-- of Halifax. I'hev are. for once
and I'or all. the taiihliil ,md liege >iibnct> ol Her .\i.iiest\', her heirs and suicessors.
■md the t,ishiou> ,ind t.i>tes of the pe^pu nui>i bego\erned b\ the kind bevond the
se.i. So the peo|ile h.ixi.' .ill that i'- ,idmirable in haiglish bii-me>-> circles and polite
socielx. Th.u is to >,i\. the\ jue^erxe liieir mercantile good names b\ integrity, and
their homes are the scenes of good old-fasiiioned Knglish hospitality. .\ stranger who
h.is the I7////V into the be->i >ociet\ will br ^ure to t,irr\ ,i\\a\' the m<wl kindh' recol-
lections of h\> \i^it. In no place will more stuilious (.'Iforts be maile to minister to the
enjovment of the u'uot it matte's not what his nationalitv ina\ be.

he sinuiL; .ittr.ii tions tor viMior> ,irc ^o numerous ill. it a i il\ miide-b

IS ne( e-

sar\ to e\|i|ain them in tluir proper oTdur

he dri\e

•^ 1 ,in

be \. tried according to the

taste and the tune o| Mi|oiiin.
road and iiji the N. W . .\riii

,1 1

111 skiTt the cii\ one mav dri\e down the I'oint I'leasanl

nis _i\e'

a tine view ot' the harbor .md its object-

intere-t.

U'lll t-

R'autilul

ate, ,ui(l .iround it are main eletiant priv.ite

t;
wl
K
wl

a
CO

\ev

1,1 1-1

fro

SU',

fan

the

scill
W||(

re-ideiit e>, the homo of tiuii of wi.ilth and taste. This i-- one of tlie most pleasant

lot

wail.

plain
using
sides,

? very
n, llie
jresls,
varied
Ml the
mounl
ly. It

IS forts
tor will
merica.
edingly
hearted

;hy city,
lUh has
^liability
.'ss until
,ary. A
ling men
,e enai't-
they had
and so
> being
vhe soliil

lie army
cr a si\-
le simon-
I'or once
( ( essors.
vond the
nd polite
ritv, and
nger wh"
dlv rectil-
,tt,T to tlie

k IS ne(e>
mg 1. 1 the
t I'leasant
nhieet- ol
i;; private
^i i>lea>am

parts of Halifax. From the arm one may drive out on the Prospect road, and around
Herring Cove. The view of the ocean had from the hills is of an enchanting nature.
Another drive is around Bedford Basin, coming home by the way of Dartmouth; or
one may extend the journey to Waverly and I'orto Bello, before starting for home, the
drive being in all twenty-seven miles. If one has a fancy for bathing in the surf, he
should go to where the sea rolls in with a magniticent sweep, at Cow Bay. This beautiful
|)la(;e, which furnishes another instance of the horribly literal nomenclature of the
early settlers, is ten miles from Halifax, on the Dartmouth side. The drive to it is
through a pretty jjiece of country. All around Halitax are bays, coves, islands and
lakes, any one of which is worthy of a visit, so that the tourist may see as much or as
little as he i)leases. Kxcursions to McNab's Island, at the mouth of the harbor, are
also in order during the fine days of summer.

In the city itself, there is a great deal to be seen. It is expected that strangers
will visit the Fish Market, and it will be well to attend to this before it is forgotten.
The people are jjroud of it — not the building but its ( ontents — and the visit is a very
interesting one. to those who like to see fish. I'hen, of course, one must go to the
l'rovin(e Building, which Judge Haliburton claimed to be " the best i)uilt and hand-
somest edifice in North America."' Then comes the new rroviiu:e Building, with its
hne museum oj)en to the public. After these come the clnirches, asylums, and all
kinds of |)ul)lic institutions — some of which bear glowing tribute to the charity and
l)hilanthropy of the people. Halifax has a large number of charities in proportion to
its si/e, aiul the results cannot fail to be good. The Public (larden belonging to the
city will be tbuiul a most pleasant retreat, with its trees and flowers, foimtains, lakes,
and cool ami shady w.ilks. Here one may enjoy the fragrance of nature in all its
glory, while the eye i> feasted uitli nature's beauties.

(Jne should have a sail on liedford Basin, that fair expanse of water, broad, deep,
blue and beautiful. Here it is that yachts ami boats of all kuids are tt) be found
taking ad\aiuage of so lair a cruising ground, spreatling their sails before the bree/es
which (onie in t'roni the .\tl.intii . It was on the shore of this Basin that the Duke of
Kent had his residence, and the remains of the music pavilion still stand on a height
which overlooks the water. I'lie " Prince's Lodge."' as it is called, may be visited
(luring the land drive to iicihnrd, hut the i)l;u-e is sadly shorn of its former glory, an<l
the railwas', that desiroser oi .dl senliiucnt. runs dirertly through tlu' grounds. It was
a I'amotis place in it> day. ho\\e\er, and the memory of the (Juecn'> lather will long
continue to be held in honor b\' the Halifax people.

Halifax has conununn ation v.ith .ill parts of the world, by steamer and sailing
vessel. Hither come the (kimh steamships with mails .ind pasNcngers, and munbers
of others whit h make this ,i port of call on their way to and from other places. .V
large trade is c .uried on wiih iMircipe. the I'nited .Slates, and the West indies, and
troiu here. also, one may \isil the lair liermiidas. or the rugged Newfoundland.
Steamers .irrive and depart ,ii .ill hours, and the harbor is never dull. ( >ne can go to
Furope or .iiiv of the leading pl.ices of America without delay — Liverpool, tilasgow,
the West Indies. New \ drk. lio>toii. I'ortland. .Newloi.ndland ,iiid (J^uebec — these are
some of the |iomt> with which direct i ommtinication ~ had by steamer. The man
who w.iiitN ,1 >e,i \oy,ige ran take hi> i lioii c.

() r I s 1 1) !■: of 11 A L I 1 \ \.

■|'he traveller mav go east or west .ilong the shiue, ai cording as Ins taste may be
f(M- sport or tor .i mere ple.isiire trip. lo the eastward is a somewhat wild country, on

ir!

the shores of which fishing is extensively carried on, and which has numerous arms of
the sea which admirably suit the occupation of its people. Back from the shore, the
country abounds in heavy forests, and is abundantly watered with lakes. This is the
great country for moose and caribou. They are found in all the eastern i)art of the
country, and within easy distance of the settlement. Here is the place for sportsmen
— a hunter's jiaradise. It was down in this county, at Tangier, that the first discovery
of gold was made in Nova Scotia. The finder was a moose hunter, a captain in the
army. Gold mining is still followed, and some of the leads have given splendid results.

To the west of Halifax the great attraction is to take the Lunenburg stage line
and go to Mahone Bay. The drive is one of the most beautiful to be found. For
much of the way the road skirts a romantic sea shore, with long smooth beaches of
white sand, on which roll the clear waters of the ocean. The ocean, grand in its
immensity, lies before the traveller. Along the shore are green forests, wherein are all
the flora of the country, wiiile at times lofty cliffs rear their heads in majesty crowned
with verdure and glorious to behold. One of these is Aspotagoen. with its perpendic-
ular height of five hundred feet, the first land sighted by the mariner as he approaches
the coast. All these beauties prepare the stranger for Chester, a nriost alluring place
for all who seek enjoyment. It is only 45 miles from Halifax, the road to it is excel-
lent, and the stages are models of s])eed and comfort. The village has two hotels and
private board is also to be had with all the comforts one desires. The scenery of
Chester is not to be described. It is magnificent. Whether one ascends Webber's
Hill and drinks in the glorious views for mile upon mile : or roams on the pure, silvery
beach ; or sails among the hundreds of fairy islets in the bay — all is of superl) beauty.
No fairer spot can be chosen for boating, bathing and healthful jjleasure of all kinds
than Mahone Jiay and its beautiful surroundings.

'i'he fishing of this part of Nova .Scotia is to a great extent for sea trout, which
are found in the estuaries of all the rivers. Salmon is found where the river is of good
volume ar.d the passage is not barred, (iold River, at the head of Mahone Bay, has
good salmon fishing in May and June. In the other rivers to the westward the best
time is in March and April. 'J'he sea trout are found in the estuaries at all times during
the summer. To the east of Halifax, fine sea trout are caught in Little Salmon River,
seven miles from Dartmouth, in the month of September, while further down both
salmon and sea trout are caught from June to Seiitember in such streams as the Mus-
quodoboit. Tangier, Sheet Harbor, Miildle and J5ig Salmon River. iJesidesthis.it will
be remembered that trout are found in all of the many lakes.

Returning to Halifax, to bid it adieu, the visitor will have leisure to examine the
Intercolonial Deiioi betore the departure of the train. The building is a fine specimen
of architecture, handsome in ai)|H'arance, roomy, comfortable and in every way adapted
to the wants of the travelling public. It is so well fitted up. and so convenient, that

the ordinary nuisancx' of having to wait fi)r a train is so
converted into a pleasure.

thoioughly mitigated that it is

The trains of the Windsor iV .\nna|)olis Railway run from this (lei)ot. and can be
taken iuiie a day by those who wish to visit the f;iir Annapolis N'alley. 'I'he main

line is left .It Windsor June i

ion. and the traveller jirepares

himself to see the beautiL

of the "(jarden of No\;i Srol

la.

Do not be in ;i hurry! The garden i^. not in sight yet-'-these rocks and scraggN

wood> are not part of it-

it will I

le ]iist as Well not to loo

k out of the window fi

a while, until tlu' land assuims a more cheerfu

^pect.

Thi

s will not be long.

Tin

aiipearant e o| the countr\ improves after a i\'W miles of tra\el and soon beiome:

< ))H(L
be r[
of 111
late J

reac.

the .1

£i the
i Mue

•ms of
re, the

I is the
of the
rtsmen
icovery

I in the
results,
ige line
i. For
iches of
d in its

II are all
;;rowned
rpendic-
iroac.hes
ng place
is excel-

otels and
i;enery of
Webber's
re, silvery
b beauty,
all kinds

lut, which

is of good
Bay, has
the best

lies during
n River,
)\vn both
the Mus

this, it will

.amine the
,l)ucinien
ay adapted
niient, tliat
d that it is

and I an lie
'I'he main
lu' beauties

lid scraggy
window for

long. 'I'll'-'
oil becomes

really attractive. Windsor is reached — classic Windsor — and the broad Avon River
is crossed by a splendid iron bridge.

No one can deny that Windsor is a pretty i)lace, with its hills, meadows, and the
Basin of Minas within view. The Avon is a noble river at high water — at low water
its banks of mud are stupendous. It is the tide from the Basin which gives the river
its beauty, as it does nearly a score of other rivers, great and small. Despite of the
mud, Windsor has a jjeculiar charm about its scenery and well merits the name of one
of Nova Scotia's beautiful towns. Leaving Windsor the road ere long enters the
country which Longfellow has made famous. Since "Evangeline" was composed, no
one has ever written of this part of Nova Scotia without quoting more or less of the
poem. It is considered the correct thing to do so, but for once there shall be an
exception to the rule. The temptation is great, but it is nobly resisted. Peojjle know
Evangeline without having it done u]) to them in fragments. Let the task he left to
newspaper correspondents, and to the noble army of those who have written " Lines
on the death of Longfellow."

Grand Pre, as all know, means great meadow, and we have only to look around
to see how fitting is the name. The .Vcadians had about 2.100 acies of it when they
had their home here, and there is more than that to-day. In the distance i.; seen
Blomidon. rising abruptly from the water, the end of ;he North Mountain range. The
Basin of Minas, which runs inland for sixty miles, shines like a sheet of burnished
silver in the summer sunshine. It is a beautif.ii place which the sweet singer has made
famous ; and yet he lived and died within two days' journey of it and never saw it.
Do you know why? It was th .t he cherished a sweet ideal which he feared the reality
woulil n ar. He neetl not have feareil, for liiough he would have looked in vain for
the forest primeval, and might havt found some of his statements open to grave doubt,
he could not have failed to admirv' the placid beauty of the scene. It is not too much
to say that the p em of " Evangeline" has done more to make Nova Scotia famous
than all the books which hase ever been written. The author could well have boasted,
as Horace did, " /ixi\i,'/ monumciititiii icre pcrritnins."

Few traces of the I''rencl village are to be found. It ha^ vanished from the earth,
hut the road taken by the exiles, as they sadly made their way to the King's ships,
may still be tra<ed by the sertimental tourist. I,et such a one not search too deeply
into history, lest his ideas of the .Vcadians receive a change, but let him be content
with the poet's version, and feel that.

To thi'ir an

linked wliile tliiu' sliall last,

'I'wo lovers from the shadowy realms are seen,
.\ fair, immortal picluro of the past,

I'lie forms of Cialiricl and Kvangeline,"

Wolfville is another lieaiitiful [ihue, and beyond it is Kentville. where thetieneral
( )thc:es of the W. \ A. Railway are situatetl, and a point from which .Mahtuie Bay may
be reached by stage across the country. Kentville has many attractions for the lover
of the beautiful as found in peatet'ul landscai>e, aiul is well worthy of a visit. .\ little
later the fameil Annapolis \allcy is seen and traversal until Annapolis Royal is
reai lied, at a distance ot i.?o inilcN from Ilalilax.

.\ N N .\ IM) L IS RO V.VL,

the ancient capital of Acadia, is tlu' o|<le>t lunopean settlement in .Vmerica, north of
the Gulf of Mexico. Hither came Char.iplain in iC)04, four years before he founil
(Quebec ; and soon after, the French coK)ny was eslabli>ihed on this well chosen s[)oi.

It w;is llu'ii Fort Koy.il, .iiid it remained for the lOiiglish. a century later, to change the
name to .\iina|)olis, in honor of their (|ueen. I)eei)ly interesting as its history is, it
<:an not lie oiitMned here. It is enough to say it has shared the fate of other Acadian
strongliolds and its fort lias become a ruin. I'o ascend the elevated ground and look
down upon the broad river and on the hills and vales around, one sees much that is
licautilul today ; and (an well realize how Poutrincourt was charmed with the vision
lh;il grccled his eyes when he ;iii(l his comrades set foot u|)oii this shore. The early
settlement was a k'W miles further down the river than the ])resent town, but all we
tre;id is historic ground. This fair river and goodly land have been the scenes of many
.1 learful fray, and swift death lias claitued its victims on every hand. Now all is
|KMteful, beautiful. The "w.ir drum throbs no longer, and the battle flags are furled;"
the loit is till' play ground of the ( hildren. and the flocks of the farmers graze upon the
earth-works raisi'd bv man to resist his t'ellow-men.

'{'he .\nnapolis \'alli y is famed for its fertility. It lies between the North and
South Mountain r.inges ; and thus sheltered, with a soil unusually rich, it has well
earned the name of the (iaiilen of Nova Scotia. F(ir mile after mile the railway runs
p,i>.t orchards white with ajiple blossoms or laden with tempting fruit. The air is
ti.igr.iiu. and the evi' ne\i'r wearies of tlu' fair farms and their fertile fields One of
the villages is called I'aradise. ami the name does not seem misplaced. Farmers may
here live aiul amid peace and jilenty. and toil little for a rich reward. It is a fine
I ountr\ ,1 biMuieous valley.

The wlioli' CO. 1st. t'roin ISriar Island U) lilomidon. a tlistance of 130 miles, is pro-
tected by the rocky barriers. The range rises at limes to the height of 600 feet, and
elfectually guards this part of No\a Scotia from the cold north winds, and the chilling
logs whii h sometimes pre\,iil in the liay o( I'uiuly.

l>ue cm go iVom .\i\napolis direct to Hosion. by steamer : or he can take the steatiier
.(cross to Si. I.ijui. ,1 short ind ple.isant iriji. On the way he can stop at Digby. a fine
w.iicuiig pl.icc. with the best o\ se.i bathing, plenty of tVuit. and much natural beauty.

It iiic louiisi h.is no! .ilreaih \ isited

r R 1 N r K K 1>\\ A R 1) ISLAND.

he shoiiKi do so lu'l'ore Ic.n iiig tlu' M.iniime rro\iiu'es. The (iartleii of the dulf is
e.isib ii'.u lied. I'itlur tVom Point du (.'hene or Pictou : and om e arrived, the railwav

t.ikcs one to .ill p.UIs Ol' lIlc isl.llld.

I'iu- i-~l.i;ul ti.is more gooii l.iiul. in j'roportion to its si/e. than any part of the
M.iniiuu' rio\nu'i'>. .uui crows .im.i.'ingh l.irge pot.itoe- and surjirisingly heavv oats.
Its iHopK- 1. Use enough tood to supjih all their wants .md have as much more to sell to
outsuleis. It is .iliogetlier a llounshing countrv'. and withal, lair to look upon, jileasant
to dwell 111. .iiid .is clu'.ip ,\ pi.ue .is one i .111 tuul in a moiuh's i<.uirney. 1 here was a
tune wlun it w.is ivm more che.ip tor strangers than it is now : and it is a (Kisitive fact
thai nun lia\i j.o!U' tlun. !iad a good time. and. while ]iaying l"or everything, ibund the
c\]>cnN< .inivMiinr.ig w> nothing. The diiVernue in the eurrem \ did it. A man tould bu>
up so\t u'lgn-. ■• ^liori qinnevs." etc . ai their ordinary value m the other Provinces, take
them to '.!-,e island, pa-^s them at tl;eir much higher \o<.\\ value, and make money by the
opii.uion. In'siiies e\et\ com th.ii vxas uncurreni anywhere else tound a reluge here.
.ir.da; luues almost .in\ bit of niet.il wliich looked like a lopjier i»ra{«enny was current
cv^in. The result «.!•> 'h.w tlu- island had the mo^i extraordinary and heterogeneou-
currencv to be fvnuui m .Vmerua, This state of altaus has somewhat improved of late
\ears. but the island is siiil a pleasant place lor a good old fashioned. " high old time.i'

tl
tl

You can land either at Charlottetown or Summerside. If at the former i.lare, you
will admire Hillsborough Bay and the beautiful harbor. The town is pleasantly
situated and has numerous pleasant places in its vicinity. Tea Hill, Governor's and
St. Peter's Islands, Lowther and S^iuaw Points, Cherry Valley, Pennarth, and East,
West and North Rivers, are all worthy of a visit. The rivers in the vicinity have pjod
trout, and fine sea-trout fishing is also to lie had off the mouth of the harl)or. " \11
kinds of white fowl are found along the shores, and woodcock and plover are also to be
shot at the proper season.

Rustico Beach is a favorite summer resort. Fine bathing, shooting and fishing
may be had here, as indeed, may be said of nearly all the places on the Island shores.

Tracadie, 14 miles from Chariottettnvn, is an excellent place, both for sportsmen
and pleasure seekers. All kinds of sea-fowl, and excellent trout fishing may be had.
Five miles from this is Savage Harbor, and six miles further is St. Peter's— both good
for shooting and fishing.

Summerside h;is much to commend it to visitors, with its fine harbor and pleasant
islands. A journey of a mile or two will bring one to Malj.eciue Bay, on the other side
of the Island. It is one of the peculiarities of the country that, though it is nearly
thirty-five miles from shore to shore in one jiart, there are three places were there is
only a mile or two between the waters. The island is thus made up of peninsulas and
some six or seven miles of digging would make four islands of the one.

The railway runs from one end of the Island to the other, and winds around the
hills in a way which will be novel to those who have been accustomed to through lines.
There is one advantage in this ; the traveller sees more of the country than if the line
were straight. The hills are not high, for the surface is of the undulating kind ; but
the absence of bold scenery is amply atoned for by the fair fields which speak so much
for the Island as a home for the farmer.

Those who seek a pleasant land, with juire air and beautiful climate, should visit
the Island. .\ll the pleasures (jf the seaside may be there enjoyed, with freedom from
tog and rties and numero\is other evils which are sometimes found upon the mainland.
One will be well treated, thoroughly enjoy himself, and never regret the visit.

MO NC ro.\ TO .S'l'. J O H \.

A journey of a little more than three hours is required to take one from MoncK^n
to the cominen lal (apital of .New Iirun>wi( k. 'i'he greater portion of the distance is
through a well settled country, atlradive in appearance, but devoid of anything striking
in the way of >cener\ .

The first station of note is .Salisbury, where connection is made with the Albert
railway, which runs to tlie village of Albert, a distance of 45 miles. jhe first pan of
this distance is through a monotonous wilderness, but when llillsboro is reached, with
the Peticodiac River Mowing by the broad marshes, the beauties of the country are
belter appreciated. The < elebrated .Mbert Mines were near thi;. ]jla(e. hut thev arc
nnw abandoned, and no other large deposit of the peculiar " .Ml ertiie Ctjal " has vet
been fi)und. I'he (juarrying and manufiu turing of plasteris. however, still an imj>ortant
industry. As the road nears Hopewell, the country is a fine one. with its moun-
tains in the distance and vast marshes reaching to the shores of .Shepody Bay, There
are kw |)laces where a short time (an be belter enjoyed in a (|uiet way than in the
vicinii. -f Albert. It is a ruh farming country, and fair lo look iijioii. Large crojjs
are raised and some of the finest beef 1 allle to be fiiund come Irom Hoiiewell and
Har\e\ .

Continuing on the main line, tiie next station re; ned is Peticodiac, a stirring
village, from which a branch railway runs to Klgin and Havelock. From Pelicodiac
until Sussex is reached the various villages make a fine a,)pearance and give one an
excellent imi)ression of New IJrunswick as a farming country.

S l^ S S K X

is one of the places which is rapidly increasing in size and imi)ortance, and has the
])romise of as fair a future as any village in the Lower Provinces. It is situated in the
beautiful Vallev of the Kennebecasis, and has some of the most famous of the New
Brunswick farms. Nature has made all this part of the country surpassingly fair to
look upon ; and it is just as good as it looks. The earth yields abundantly of all kinds
of crops, and the dairy products have a most enviable fame. 15esides this, the people
have push and enter|)rise and are making rapid strides in all branches of industry.

Some fair fout fishing is to be found in this jiarl of the country. To the east and
south are Walton, (irassy. Theobald. Hear. White Pine. Echo. Chisholm and other
lakes, all within eighteen miles of the village. Kight pound trout have been caught in
Chisholm Lake, though fish of that size are the exception. Li 'i'heobald l,ake one
man has taken ninety trout, averaging a pound each in two days.

■{'he visitor who is interested in mining should visit the manganese mines, ten
miles from the village ; and if he should like to see how the best of table salt is obtained,
his curiosity may be satisfied by going to the Salt Springs, four miles away. As for
views, the be.>t to be luul is from Llanch's Hill, which overlooks the village and a large
portion of the surrounding country.

Ceologists tell us that these hills and bold heights seen in the vicinity of Sussex are
the effect of a terrific current which once Howed through the valley, when all the
country was submerged by a mighty flood. It is thought that this was once i)art of
the valley of the St. John River, but when that "once" is something as uncertain as
the authorship of Ossian's ])()ems. It was a long while ago, at any rate.

Lroni Sussex to St. John, a distance of 44 miles, the country along the line is well
settled, and abouiuls in beautiful villages. Hampton, the shire-town of Rings County,
is in great repute as a sinnmer resort for the people of St. John, a number of whom
have fine jirivate residences here. From this point the St. Martins iV Upham Railway
runs across the country to the tlourishiiig village of St. \[artins, on the Bay Shore.
Ham|)ton is a \er\- pleasant place, and like Sussex, is making rai)id advances year by
year. Rothesay, nine miles from the city, has some handsome villas, the residences
of .St. John business men and others, who find ail the pleasures of rural life within less
than a halfan-h(Uir's distance of their otfi( es and counting-rooms. The ornamental
trees and carefully arranged grounds ha\e a very jileasing effect. The Rennebecasis
River Hows close by the track for a ilistanc:e of several miles, the hills rising on the
distant shore in iiicnnes(pie beauty. .\s Riversiile is reached, one of the finest race-
courses oil the ( Diitinent is seen. Here is the scene of some famous a(piatic contests
by fiimous oarsmen — Hanlan, Ross, and cjthers of lesser note. It was here on a beau-
tiful autumn morning, years ago, that the renowned Paris and Tyne crews struggled
for victory. It was nearly opjiosiie yonder wharf that a man of the Knglish fiiur was
seen by ilie excited thousands to fiill from his seat, and as tlie Paris crew shot ahead
what a cheer echoed tVom that \ast ( rowtl of human beings ! \' 'l. how (piiet was alia
few minutes later wiieii from the shore beside the wharf the Champion ol Kngland,
James Rent'ortli. was ( arried uji the hill to die I It was a strange, sad siene — the most
memorable in the ann.ils of this memorable >pot.

INTI:RC0I.()NIAI, railway SPATION. ST. JOHN.

S A I X T JOHN.

St. John lias a history which extends l)ack to the days when the land was Acadia
and the banner of France waved from the forts of the harbor and river. The story of
La Tour and his heroic wife is one of the most interesting in the annals of the colonies.
Such a tale — a romance — deserves a better fate than to be i)resented in a mutilated
form ; the space at command in these i)ages would fail to do the narrative justice.

Apart from its Acadian annals, the history of St. John has little to interest the
stranger. The city has no extensive fortifications, no memorable battle-fields, nothing
ancient or (piaint lo fascinate the anti(piarian. It is a modern city. Kven the best
])art of its old buildings have been swept away by fire, and new and substantial edifice.s
line the great majority of liie streets. St. John is to be seen for what it is — not for
what it has been.

The great fire of the joth of June, 1.S77. swejit over 200 acres of the business
])art of the citv, ilestroyed more than i,f)oo houses, which occupied nine miles of
street, and caused a los> which has been estimated at figures all the way between
twenty and thirtv million dollars. The destruction was swift and complete, and the
effects of it will be felt fi)r many years to come. The new city has made rai)id progress ;
and brick and stone have taken the place of the wood so generally in use in former
times. To one who knew it in other years. St. John seems another place. Everything
has changed, all the old associations are gone. The surroundings of the iieoi)le are
different. It is much as if some old familiar picture gallery were so renovated that all
the old lights and shades were gone, and tlie dear old paintings brightened, varnished
and set in new and Uiiudv Ir.unes.

Many of the new buildings are splendid specimens of arrhitecture. The new
Intercolonial Station and the Custom House are edifices of which any city might be
proud. The Post Office, the churches, and numerous other buildings, public and
private, cannot fail to evoke admiration. The city is naturally well adapted to show
its buildings to the best advantage, with its streets wide, straight and crossing each
other at right angles. The new part of the city has a gentle slope towards the harbor,
and seen from the latter makes a fine appearance. A closer inspection does not dissi-
pate the first favorable impression, and St. John is voted a rather nice sort of place.

Outside of the city are several fine drives. One of these is out the Marsh Road,
visiting the beautiful Rural cemetery. This City of Tombs is situated most admirably
for its purpose and none can fail to be struck with the cpiiet beauty which is everywhere
seen throughout its shady walks. Another, and very attractive, drive is over the
Suspension Bridge. The river St. John takes its rise in the State of Maine and Hows
over 450 miles until it is emptied in the harbor on the Bay of l-'undy. It, with its
tributaries, drains two million acres in Quebec, six millions in Maine and nine millions
in \ew Brunswick. Yet this great body of water is all emjjtied into the sea through a
rocky chasm a little over 500 feet wide. Here a fall is formed. It is a peculiar fall.
At high tide the sea has a descent of fifteen feet into the river, and at low tide the
river has a like fall into the sea. It is only at half-tide, or slack water, that this part
of the river may be navigated in safety. At other times a wild tumult of the waters
meets the eye. Across this chasm is stretched the Susi)ension Bridge, seventy feet
above the highest tide, and with a s])an of 640 feet. This structure was projected ar 1
built by the energy of one man, the late William K. Reynolds. Few besides the pro-
jector had any fiiith in the untiertaking, and he therefore assumed the whole financial
and other resjionsibility. not a dollar being paid by the shareholders until the bridge
was opened to the public. In 1S75 the bridge was purchased from the shareholders by
the Provincial (lovernment and is now a free highway.

A short distance above the Suspension Bridge is the splendid Cantilever Bridge
which gives the Intercolonial direct connection with the New Brunswick railway and
the vast system of the L'nited States. Cntil 1X85 travellers to and from Western New
Brunswick and the New Kngland States were obliged to cross the harbor by ferry and
be driven across the cily in order to make connection. In October of that year the
bridge was opened for traffic, and the former gap of two miles between the two railways
was forever ciosetl. The bridge is a beautiflil and most substantial structure. High
al)ove the rushing waters its graceful outlines, seen from a distance, convey no idea of
its wonderful solidity and strength. S(jlid and strong it is. however. .Ml the resources
of motlern engineering ha\e been brought to bear in its lonstruction. .md its founda-
tions are ujion the solid rcn k. The main span is S25 iVet in length. The bridge is not
only a boon as regards the convenience of the travelling public, but has a most
i!n])ortaiU bearing in acommertial sense. It gives direct communication between the
L'nited States and the lower Provinces, and in the facilities which it affords lor through
shipment is giving a new stimulus to many important industries.

Near the bridges, on the west side of the river, is the Provincial Lunatic .\sylinn ;
a little further, after ])assing Fairville. is that famous drive, the Manawagonish (Maogenes)

\oa(l

I splendid

liii;hwa\-, 111 lull view of the P>a\- o

f I'll

lulv. w

ith the line of the Nova

Scotia coast visible forty miles away. This is one of the most jileasant drives to be
had around St. John. Returning. Carleton. which lies across the harl).)r, may be
visited, and one may see the ruins of l-'ori I,a Tour. Do not make the same blunder
as the gifted iSayanl I'aylor. and mistake the Martello Tower for this fort. I,a 'Tour's

■I.

stronghold is not so c()ns])icuoiis, and there is very little to l)e seen of it. Houses are
built on this historic ground, and they are not by any means imposing in their character ;
slabs and sawdust are numerous, and the air is at times pervaded with a decidedly
plain odor of fish. Such is Fort La Tour to-da" ; such is the place where lived and
died "the first and greatest of Acadian heroines — a woman whose name is as proudly
enshrined in the history of this land as that of any sceptred queen in European story."*

A superior natural bathing jiiace may be found at the Bay .Shore, a short distance
from Carleton. The situation is excellent, and were the place properly prepared for
visitors, it would doubtless be mui h more extensively ])atronized than at the jjresent
time.

Leaving the city and driving through Portland, a city of itself, one may ascend
Fort Howe, have a grand view of the harbor and city, and then proceed to the banks
of the brood and beautiful Kennebecasis. Or one may go by the way of the Marsh
Bridge to Lake Lomond, a famous place for ple.isure parties, where fishing, sailing, etc.,
may be enjoyed to perfection. Should a shorter and still pleasant drive be desired,
one may ascend Mount ]"easant, have another magnificent view of the city and vicinity,
and proceed to Lily LaK^ In fact, it were tedious to enumerate all the pleasant
places which may be visited by those having a team at their disposal for a few hours
of a summer day.

The harbor of St. John is one of its great features. Deep and capn^ious, its
swift currents and high tide render it free from ice during the most severe seasons.
Ships of any size can lie safely at its wharves, or anchor in the stream, well sheltereil
from the storms which rage without. At the entrance is Partridge Island, a light,
signal, and (juaranline station : with this once pro[)erly fortified, and guns placed on
the opposite shore of the mainland, no hostile fleet could hope to gain the harbor
without a des])erate struggle, 'i'he harbor jjroper bounds the city on the west and
south ; to the east is Courtenay Bay, which becomes a plain of mud when the tide is
out. Some fine vessels have been built on this Bay, and it has excellent weir fisheries.
The fisheries of this and other parts of the harbor are prosecuted with excelleilt success
and give em])loyment to a large number of men. It is from these fishermen that such
oarsmen as the Paris crew, Ross, Brayley and others have risen to be famous.

St. John is essentially a maritime city. Its wharves are always in demand for
shipping, and vast (juantities of lumber, etc., are annually exported to other countries.
It is indeed the fourth among the shijjping [jorts of the world, and St. John ships are
found in every part of the seas of both hemispheres. Before the introduction of
steam, its clipper ships, such as the swift " Marco Polo," had a fame second to none,
and voyages were made of which the tales are proudly told even unto this day.

The commercial outlook in St. John is most encouraging. The citizens have
rallied from the terrible blow dealt them by the fire, and industries of all kinds are
increasing in number and importance.

One thing makes a favorable impresion on the stranger. The people have inter-
mingled so mucli with the Americans that they have much of their off-hand frankness
and cordiality. Little attention is jjaid to caste in this democratic city, and the best
society has only those barriers which sound common sense render necessary. The men
who occupy the highest jiositions in the city to-day have worked hard to gain a living;
and they are not ashamed to own it, or to be the friends of other workers who are still at
the foot of the ladder.

*liannay.

'I'he sympathies of the peo|)le are always with the stranger. They like to see
visitors. Years ago, when there was no railway to Bangor, and but two trips a week
were made by the steamer to Boston, the arrival and departure of the " Yankee Boat "
were events of great local interest. About noon on the days the boat was expected,
people began to en(]uire at the express office to learn the hour of her arrival at Eastport.
So soon as the expected telegram came, the ageni, in order to have time to attend to his
business, put out a large sign, announcing the hour the steamer would reach St. John.
Men read th words, glanced at their watches, and regulated their business so as to be
('H hand at the proper time. Ladies hurried their shopping so as not to be late on the
great occasion. Everyone looked pleased. Shortly before the hour named, large numbers
would gather round Reed's Point, and secure the most eligible places for the show. At
length the long, loud whistle would be heard upon the harbor, and at the sound coaches,
express wagons and private teams all came tearing down town, while on the sidewalks
men, women and children hastened with joyful U ct to the scene of action. The ceremony
over, the people quietly disjjersed, and strangers who liad seen the crowd on the wharf,
and saw what they sujjposed to lie other crowds walking the streets, were most favourably
Impressed with the life so ajiparent among the people. If this account be just a little
overdrawn, the writer ha^ no fear. St. John jieople are not " thin-skinned," and can
enjoy a joke at their expense, on any fair subject. The most caustic allusions to the fog
cannot disturb their good nature, and altogether they can give and take to any extent,
provided the shaft be not tijipcd with downright malice.

The ascent of the river to Eredericton is a very enjoyable trip. Steamers leave
every morning during the summer. Steamers also cross the Bay to Digby and Annapolis ;
and three regular trips a week are made by the International Line to Eastport, Portland
and Boston. The New Brunswick Railway runs daily trains to Fredericton and Vauceboro,'
.connecting at the latter place with New England Railways tor Bangor, Portland, Boston
and New York. The Grand Southern runs to Si. ( ieorge and St. Stephen. It will be
thus seen that there are excellent facilities for reaching St. Jolui ; and, what is equally
important, there is good hotel accommodation after one arrives. The Dufferin, Royal
and others, furnish every convenient e which the traveller can (Icsiic.

Several of the lakes in the vicinity of St. John afford fair trout fishing, while excellent
duck and goose shooting ma\' ]n: had at Mace's Bay, near Point Lepreau.

ROD AND RIFLE.

While the various sections of the country adapted to the wants of the sjiortsman
have been noticed in their oiikr. a few additional remarks may be of interest. First, as
to the fishing, .\long the Lower St. Lawrence, in the Metai:)edia Valley, and down the
shores of New Brunswick below Miramichi, salmon are found in all the important rivers,
and are of the largest size in the Restigouche district. While many good fishing privileges
are under lease, some remain wiiich are still open to the public; and even in the case of
leased streams no difficulty will ln' found in obtaining a permit. The decisions of the
courts are, however, in favor of the rights of riparian proprietors, and against the power
of the Government to lease the right of fishing regardless of the ownership of the soil. The
regulations of the Department allow of tly fishing for salmon from the 30th of April to
the 31st of August in Quebec, and from the 1st of March to the 15th of September in
New Bnmswick, In Nova Scotia the best salmon rivers are on the Atlantic coast, though
some which were formerly good have been " fished-out," or obstructed by dams. Where
f^ootf fish-ways have been ])ut in, the streams are not injured, but some of the old ways
seem adapted for almost any i)urpose rather than the passage of salmon. One river,

which does not t'llipty on the Atlantic coast, deserves mention, it is the Shubenacadie,
on which some fine sport has been had and will doubtless be h.id in the future. Salmon
cannot be fished for in the rivers to the westward of Halifax between the 31st of July and
the ist of March, nor in the other rivers between the 1 5th of August and the 1st of March,
None of the rivers of Nova Scotia are Kased.

Trout are abundant in all the lakes, rivers and estuaries along the line of railway,
and the fishing is a free one. The close season is from the ist of t)ctober to the ist of
January. The sea trout found in the estuaries are fine fish, and though abundant in very
many jjlaces. they are found In their perfection in the Tabusintac and Escuminac. They
are greedy biters, and it is said, will take almost any kind of tly. The arms of the sea
and numerous estuaries on the .Atlantic roa>t of Xova Scotia are ])articularly good places
for these fish, which find their feeding grounds among the sand flats and bars and among
the beds of seaweetl in shoal water. June and July are the best months for seeking them,
though they may be found at all seasons. They are a very gamy fish, handsome in
apperance, and excellent eating.

The brook trout, though very like the sea trout, is admitted to be a different fish.
It is found in its excellence in lakes which have an outlet in the |
sea, and is a very beautiful creature. i'he best fishing begins about
the .Middle of .May ; but good sport is had all through the season,
except perhai)S during the hottest part of the summer, when the
fish are a little dull. So soon as a few i;ool nights lower the tem-
perature of ihe water, the fish are again alert, and continue so until
the ice forms. In seeking for the best fiavored trout avoid muddy
and .swampy lakes, and choose those with good bottom and clear
water.

As to Hies, it is difficult to give niucli advice. Some have
been named from time to time in the preceding pages, but no
attempt has been made to give full information on this point.
" Doctors differ," in regard to the best flies for the l)est places,
and a Hy which some claim to be the best in use for certain
rivers, is pronounced worthless by other equally good authorities.
The sportsmen should always carry a good assortment, and he
will seldom fail to find out what is wanted in a particular water in
which he fishes. Ca])tain Hardy, a good authority, recommends a
particular fly for the Nepisiquit— " a dark fly, body of black ||y
mohair, ribbed with fine gold thread, black hackle, very dark [y
mallard wing, a narrow tip of orange silk, and a very small feather
from the crest of a golden pheasant for a tail." The variety of
fbes is large : and instances are not rare where a fly hastily extem-
porized from the first materials to be had has proved to be most
killing in its effects. .Ml fishermen know that there is a great deal
in " luck."

The Lower I'rovinces afford the Ivst opportunities for moose
and caribou
hunting. Tiie
country lying
back of the
rivers on the
northeast shore

fHV-'-^

^cr:^

7»

of New Brunswidk, and the forests of Ciiinberlaiul, Colchester, Halifax and Guysboro,
in Nova Scotia, will give ail the si)ort desired.

In Nova Scotia the clost.- season for moose and caribou is from the ist of February
to the 15th of Septemlier. No one person is allowed to take more than two moose and
four caribou in any one year or season. The Hesh is to be carried out of the woods
within ten days after killing, and game killed during the latter part of January, shall be
carried out during the first five days of I'Vbruary. The penalty for the violation of these
provisions is from $30 to $50, and a fine of $25 is imiiosed for hunting with dogs. The
close season for partridge is between the first days of January and October, and that of
woodcock, snipe and teal between the first days of March and August. Woodcock must
not be killed before sunrise or after sunset, liluc-wingcd duck must not be taken
between the first days of April and August. The annual licenses for non-residents e.xpire
on the first of August. They cost $30 each, but in the case of officers of Her Majesty's
service, the charge is only $5 each.

In New IJrunswick, the close season for moose, caribou and deer, is from the ist of
February, to the 1st of August. The penalty is a fine of from $10 to $60. Hunting
with dogs is forbidden, under a penalty of $20. and any jjerson may kill dogs which are
chasing, or can be jiroved to have chased, such game. Three moose, five caribou or
five deer, are allowed to be killed by each party in any one season. The flesh of such
game must be carried out of the woods within ten days after the killing, with the excep-
tion of such as is killed during the latter i)art of December, when the flesh must be
carried out within the first five days of January. The close season for partridge is from
the ist of December to the 20th of September; for woodcock and snipe, to the ist of
September. Non-residents are reipiired to take out a license, the cost of which is the
same as in Quebec. The fee for officers of Her Majesty's service is five dollars.

The close season for moose and deer in (Quebec is from the 1st of February to the
ist of September, and the female of the moose is not to be shot at any time until the
15th of October. i.SSiS. F'or caribou, from the 1st of March to the ist of September,
and the same dales apply to hare. For woodcock, snipe and partridge, from the ist of
February to the ist of .\\m\. and for wild duck from the ist of May to the ist of Sep-
tember. The penally is a fine of from $2 to $60. \n hour before and after sunset
are also set ajiari for the protection of snipe, woodcock, ducks and geese. Non-residents
are required to take out a hunting license, the cost of which is $20, and the penalty
for the non-compliance is double the amount of the fee.

The foregoing are some of the provisions of the Game Laws of the three Provinces.
'I'here are other provisions, in regard to trapjjing, using nets for wild fowl, hunting with
artificial lights, etc., but as no sportsman will resort to such jiractices, these provisions
need not be (juoted.

A L A N D O F H E A I, TH A N 1 ) P L E N T Y .

Two widely difierent classes of peo|)le seek Canada from across the Atlantic. One
of these represents wealth, seeks the pleasup.s to be found in the forests and streams,
and remains but for a .season. The other consists of those with little capital save strong
arms and willing hands, who seek homes in a land which is ever ready to bid them wel-
come. Many of these seek the West and Northwest, but others choose wisely and well
by selecting lands in the older jjrovinces. Such a choice gives the immigrant all the
benefits of a country with established institutions, combined with all that is fitted to
make the farmer or the artizan content with his lot.

Elsewhere in diese l>ages it is shown that territory traversed by the Intercolonial

Railway is one of the most attractive \micii can meet the eve of the sportsman and
tourist. To the immigrant, also, it has iniuch to offer in the \way of soil, climate and the
opportunities for industry to meet with a rich reward. In this favored climaVe the
summer heat is genial hut not intense, and the winter c.M is so tempered with bright,
beautiful days that the season is robbed on tiie terrors wnidi l)elong to it in more distant
parts of the continent. Cyclones come not to level all liefore them; the crops are not
devoured by ,i;rasshoppers and other scourges ; fever, malaria and raging epidemics are
unknown. The farmer is afflicted by nu evils of magnitude. In some sections, but not
in all, he may at times have to contend with such wild nuisances as the potato bug, the
crow, the fruit-tree pedlar and the lightning-rod agent. Vigilance. Paris green, a shot-
gun ard a good dog, will do much to mitigate, if not to aliolish all these minor ills.

In the country through which the Intercolonial passes there is plenty of room for
farmers and workers of all kinds. Millions of acres of splendid country are yet un-
granted, ami they offer the fanner all the advantages of good land, favorable climatic
conditions, wood and water in abundance and short roads to profitable markets. The
country is not the offspring of to-day, its cities are not mere mushroom growths, and
among its people are combined the enterprise and push of America with the steady,
solid qualities for which the British race is famed. In tiiis land tlie settler may find
substantial comfort and the happiness of a home.

Prior to the construction of the Intercolonial Railway, the great disadvantage under
which this part of the country labored was the want of facilities for speedy access to a
market. Siucc the completion of the road, however, and witli the addition each year of
new b/ianches and feeders, agriculture has received a fresh inipetus and other industries
of various kiitds have been develo])e<l along tiie line. Nearly all of the large extent of
jujuntry openad out by the road and its branches is susceptible of high cultivation and
will ^ve thf .lurmer a most abundajit return for his work. In the exceptional places
.wiita^ the s'H' w not so prolific, nature Ims given such advantages as mines, minerals,
or majiulaf • ■ ., -ites and some of the finest liarbors and fisheries on the North American
ODntinent. are n(j barren areas, trackless deserts or dreary wastes to weary the

Ql the _ _-iur. Every part of the country is capable of yielding a rich return to

THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE.

of the Metapedia \ alley, much of the country between Quebec
cit\- ami tbe jnctt Bnnaswick bordt".r is settled iiy an agricultural people, nearly all of
wboKt are Cajiadian l"^nch. Thev do not, as a rule, carry on farming on a large scale,
as mamy of them :h~ follow other pursuits at various seasons. In this part of the
country vcgeratp a; nces very rajjidly after spring begins, and tlv crops are matured
earlier in the autumn iman in some climates with longer summers. The soil is good, and
were more attention jr^en to its development, the results would far exceed the records of
the jiresent time. .\ :ne counties throiigii which the railway i)asscs lie on tlic shore of
the Lower St. Lawreru:-. the fisheries employ a large number of the peojile, and lumber-
ing is also an important industry. .Abundant and cheap water-power is supplied by the
numerous streams which intersect the coast. Saw mills, large and small, meet the eye
every few miles, wiiile here and there are grist mills to which the habitants carry their
wheal and other grains. Some of the saw mills do a very extensive business. Lumber-
ing is not the onK industry of importance, however. Mills and factories of various
kinds art' found at .ill the larger places, and thus steady employment is given to many
classes of worker.;. Rivic^re du Loup, for instance, has among other things grist and

saw mills, a pulp mill and a foundry, while at Bic, Amqui and other villages several new
mills have gone into operation during the past season.

The shore fisheries of the Lower .St. Lawrence include herring, shad, eels, salmon,
halibut and porpoise. All these are caught in large (piantities at the proper seasons, and
furnish a livelihood to many hundreds of the people. The waters of the Lower St.
Lawrence teem with fish, while some of the best shOi\ fishing in the world is found
around the peninsula of Gasi)e.

A new railway, which will do much to open up and improve this part of the country,
is to run from Metapediac to Pasbebiac, a distance of 85 miles.

NEW B R I \ S W I C K — R E S T I C. U C Ji E .

W hen the River Restigouche is reached the extent of the lumber industry becomes
even more apparent than in passing over the more northern part of the line. Six or
seven mills are found at the boundary in the vicinity of Campbellton, and other mills
are found at Dalhousie, from whence a portion of the lumber from Cam])bellton is
shipped.

Rich in timber as is the county of Restigouche, with some two million acres of all
kinds of forest growth, the lumber industry employs only half as many men as are
engaged in the fisheries. The river and the Raie des Chaleurs furnish cod, herring,
mackerel and lobsters in profusion, and the boats of the fishers dot the water in every
kind of weather.

The country h is not been developed by the farmer .^^ i.' must be before many years.
Some of the richest lands in this part of the world a^f .band in what is known as the
"fertile belt." which includes a large part of Restigouch. county. Authorities on such
subjects have termed it the best of upland, well adapted for wheat and with unlimited
facilities for stock-growing and sheep-raising. There are about 1,800.000 acres siill lui-
granted in the county, but when, as projected, a railway is opened across the country to
the T(jbique the vacant lands must be taken up in a short time. Since the opening of
the Intercolonial the population has increased forty per cent, the annual yield of wheat
has been doubled, and other crops have increased in proportion.

The settlements whiih have been established at Balmoral, Colebroke, Sunnyside,
Lome and Mitchell, lie within five or six miles of the railway. The soil is good, the
land well timbered, and the settlers are prosperous and contented.

Reference to the beauties of the scenery in the vicinity of the Restigouche and the
Bale des Chaleurs is made in another part of this book. The climate is a most healthful
and desirable one at all seasons of the year.

c; L o L' c E s r e r c o ii n r y .

The Frencli tongue is heard again when this county is reached, though not to the
exclusion of the English language. Gloucester, though smaller than Restigouche, is
more thickly settled, having a pojiulation three times as huge, and only al)out one-sixth
as much vacant land available for settlement. Fishing and hunbering are the chief
industries, some 2.500 men being emj^loyed in the former and 500 in the latter. The
county has good grindstone anil other (juarries. The railway has made ;in important
increase in the i)oi»ulation, though less than would have been the case had the route not
been through the western and less valuable part of the lands. The branch railway to
Caraquet, recently completed, will do much to open up lands which have been accessible
only by highwavs in the jiast. The soil of llloucester is good, and favorable reports are
received from the four settlements, St. Isidore, Pactpietville, Millville and Robertville.

Thf position of the county, with the Baie des Chaleurs to the north and the Gulf
of St. Lawrence to the south, gives it a large extent of seaboard, splendid fisheries
and some of the best harbors in Canada. One of these, Shippegan, is without a rival
on the coast and has been much discussed in the ipiestion of rapid transit between
Euro])e and America.

XORTHUMBKRl.AX n COUNTY.

Three and a half centuries have passed since Jaccpies Cartier stepped on the
continent of .\merica for the first time, at the mouth of the Miramichi river. He had.
indeed, stopped at Newfoundland, but happened to find a very bad part of its coast.
"I believe it to be the land that Cod allotted to Cain." he wrote, and so he sailed
westward until he reached what is now known as Point Kscuminac. He was delighted
with the forests, soil and climate, but had he sailed up the river he would have found
even more to excite his admiration and evoke his praise. The county of Northumber-
land, with an area of 2.756,000 acres, is not only the largest in New Brunswick, but
it is one of the fairest and most nourishing. Its pen])le are among the most enterprising
and hospitable in llie Lower Provinces. The Miramichi river tlrains 6000 square miles
of territory, and as it nears uie sea it expands into a broad and beautiful sheet of water
on which the navies of nations might ride in safety.

Miramichi lumber has a world-witie reputatii>n, and vast ipiantities of it cross the
ocean every year. As many as eighty scjuare-rigged vessels have been seen in the port
of Chatham at one time, loading for foreign markets. The twenty-seven sawmills of
the county include some large and fine concerns. i'hey emjjloy more than 1500 men,
and the value of their products i-s over $1,500,000 in a season. In addition to ma' 1-
factured lumber, large ipiantiiies of timber, sjiars and other products of the forest u.ie
cut and shipjjcd. .Still another industry connected with the foiest is the making of an
extract for tanning iiur|)oses from the bark of the hemlock tree. The factory for the
manufai:ture of this is situated at Millertcm. and large exports of the extract are made
to Great Britain and other i)laces.

The fisneries are anoth.er important industr)'. and in frozen fish alone a heavy
trade is done with the Lnited States. Salmon and Smell form a large ])art()fihe
export.

Newcastle and Chatham are the chief towns of Northumberland. 'J'he former is on
the line of the Intercolonial, anil the latter is reached by a branch nine miles in length.
The Northern and Western Railway, now com])leted, will connect these towns with Freder-
ictoi,, the capital of the Province. Its route is through the rich and beautiful Miramichi
Valley, a distance of 1 10 miles, and the road nuist materially advance the interests of this
already flourishing county. Another railway is a branch of the Intercolonial which runs
to Indian Brook, about fourteen miles from Newcastle.

The jjopulation of Northumberland has increased nmre than 25 per cent, since the
completion of the Intercolonial, and noticealjle progress has been made in agriculture.
The increase in farm prodiK'ts has been greater in proportion than the increase in the
(piantity of land in crop. The latter has made an advance of 12'.. percent., but the
increase of wheat and of hay ha^ been 50 i)er cent, each, in oats and buckwheat ,^3 i)er
cent., and other crops in proportion. The po])ulation is about 26,000. '{'here is only
one inhabitant for every no acres in the county and something like half a million acres
of good land are yet imgranted. The new settlements already established are eight in number
viz ; Rogersville, on the line of the Intercolonial, the Sugary, near .Newcastle. St. Jo.seph,
Warwick. Lockstead, Breadalbane, Ha/elton and Pleasant Ridge. The three latter are

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in the western part of the county and will derive new advantages from the opening of
the Northern and Western Railway. All of the settlements are doing well, and they are
but the pioneers of others which must follow as the hitherto unsettled country becomes
opened up and its resources are better known.

KENT COUNTY.

The more thickly settled portions of Kent are not seen along the line of the
Intercolonial, which i)asses through the centre of the county and crosses the head-waters
of the principal rivers. Near the shore, however, are such flourishing places as Richi-
bucto. Kingston, St. Louis, Buctouche and Cocagne, at all of which a brisk business is
done in the fish, lumber and other industries. RichibuctoandSt. Louis are reached from
the Intercolonial by the Kent Northern Railway, 34 miles in length. Another railway
will connect Jiuctouche with Moncton, the commercial Metropolis of Westmoreland
county. Richibucto, the chief town, Buctouche and Cocagne, all have excellent harbors
and do a good export trade. In canned lobsters alone, some 2,000,000 pounds are
shipped in a season. The Buctouche oysters also have a wide and well-earned fame.

Some 300,000 acres of good ungranted land await the settler. The county, though
little more than half as large as Northumberland, has more land in crop and shows
splendid results both in roots and cereals. The annual yield of potatoes is about
1,000,000 bushels, and the wheat crop is equal to that of Restigouche, Gloucester and
Northumberland combined. The county has more farmers in its population than any of
the counties already named.

The now settlements of Kent comprise Acadieville, Colebrokedale, Adamsville,
(iirouard and Rlujmbuid. all of which either border on or are within a short distance of
the Intercolonial Railway.

In the four " North Shore '' counties of New Brunswick of which mention has been
000 acres of the ungranted lands are fit for settlement.

.'hey

connected with the great railway system of the continent, and every year sees rapid
progress in the hraucli railways which arc tending to develoji the rich resources of this
jjart of the country.

W K S T M R E LAN I) COIN T \' .

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With the Bay of Fundy on the ^louth and the Strait of Northumberland on the east,
Westmoreland is hap])ily situated for commercial purijoses. It has a population of about
40,000. ranking next to Saint John county, and has not only great wealth, but resources
which make it a glorious heritage for the farmer. Its geographical position gave it an
importance long before the days of railways, and so the availab!;." lands have been taken
u|) until only about 100,000 acres remain ungranted. Sim e the first railway was begun
in the county, the pojiulation has more than doubled, and nearly an equal increase has
been made in the area of improved lands. 'I'his area is now about 175,000 acres, of
which 1 1 .'.000 are under crop, .\mong the most valuable lands are the famous marshes,
so suitable fi)r stock-raising, which have made the choice beef of Westmoreland, well
known on l)i)lh sides of the .\tlanti( . The horned cattle of the county are nearly equal
to the ])opulation in number, and the shee]) arc in still greater numbers than the cattle.
The county ivroduces annually about 1.000,000 pounds of butter, more than 1.000,000
bushels of i)otatoes. simie 70,000 tons of hay. and projiortionately large (piantities of other
farm products and croi)s.

Moncton is the chief t<n\n ol Westmoreland. Twenty-five years ago its po|)ulation
was less than 1400, but today u is more Mum 7000. The town has made very rapid

strides, not only in pojnilation but in l)iisiness enterprise, and new industries add to its
importance every year. Among the more important of these are a sugar refinery, a
cotton mill, and flictories of various kinds which give steady employment to large numbers
of workmen. The general offices and workshops of the Intercolonial are located here,
and the position of Moncton as a railway centre l>as an imjjortant influence on the
prosperity of the place. The annual imports of the town are more than six times as
large as they were ten years ago, the exports have increased twenty-fold and the post
office revenue has much more than doubled. These facts point clearly to the steady and
substantial growth of Moncton.

Outside of Moncton the various parishes of the county are not only rich agricul-
turally but have numbers of important industries, including foundries, factories and mills.
Freestone of the best quality for building purposes is quarried in large quantities and
exported to the United States and other countries. Copper is mined to some extent at
Dorchester, and capital is being employed to develop the coal and oil resources in the
same vicinity. Sackville. Dornhester, Shediac, Salisbury and Petitcodiac are all thriving
places in whicii the population is rajjidly mirreasing.

Of the ungranted land fit for settlement jjortions are found in the parishes of
Botsford, Shediac, Salisbury and Moncton. There are also tracts of good land for sale
at about $i an ,icre on the St. Andrew's road in the parish of .Sackville. This is very
desirable land, and is accessible by a good highway. There are also large areas of very
good land in various parts of the county held by private parties for lumbering purposes,
and these must in time be thrown open for settlement. Old farms are also to be had for
about two-thirds of the prices asked Ijefore family changes, etc., caused them to be put
upon the market. Immigrants who are able to purcitase such farms at from $600 to
$1000 may find numbers from which to make a choice. Land may be had very cheaply
in all the l).ack settlements of the county.

The Intercolonial railway runs from Moncton westerly to Saint John and southerly
to Halifax. A branch at Fainsec Junction goes to Point du Chene from whence
communication is had with Prince Kdward Island during the summer season. From
Petitcodiac the Elgin railway goes to the eastern part of .Albert c(junty, and the southern
part of the same county is reached by the All)ert Railway, which connects with the
Intercolonial at Salisbury. The New Brunswick and Prince Fdward railway runs from
.Sackville to cape Tormentine, and will connect across the narrowest part of Northum-
berland Strait with a line which runs from Cape Traverse to the interior of Prince
Edward Island. Surveys are being made to ascertain the feasibility of a subway under
the Strait. .\dd to the railways named the one which is to connect Moncton and
Buctouche, and it will be seen that Westmoreland is well Mipjilied with facilities for
travel.

K.1 XC. S COUNTY.

Next to Westmoreland, on the w.iy to Saint John, is the prosperous county of Kings.
It is the only inland county through which the Intercolonial passes in New Brunswick,
but if nature has given it no seal)orl^, slu' has richly endowed it with ail that tends to make
the farmer's lot a hapjiy one. It is an old and well jjopulated jiart of the Province, and
agriculture has been followed for generation after generation with great success. Not
more than 4000 of its 877,000 acres are imgranted and open for settlement, for its nearness
to .Saint John and the fertility of its soil have always made it a favorite location for the
farmer. Long before it had the railway, good highways and tlie great water-way of the
Saint John Ri\v.r gave easy access to a good market, and caused this pan of the country

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to be well settled. It is not surprising, therefore, that in a quarter of a century the
increase in population has been only about lo per cent. In that time, however, the
the products of the county have greatly increased. It raises seven times as much wheat
as it did, nearly twice as much buckwheat, 75 per cent, more potatoes, etc. The annual
yield of potatoes is about 750.QP0 bushels, and the butter amounts to about a million
pounds. Large quantities of the milk used by the cities of Saint John and Portland are
supplied by this county, and immense crops of strawberries and other small fruits are
cultivated and exi)orted.

Sussex, with a po|)uiation of 2000, is the chief village of Kings, and has a number
of industries, including!' shoe, furniture and carriage factories. The situation of the
village is one of great beauty, and the fixrms in the vicinity are among the best in New
Brunswick. Hampton, the shire town, is another flourishing place. A match factory
is among its industries. A pulp and paper mill is located at Fenobsquis. and a manganese
mine is operated at Markhamville. Lumbering and shipbuilding are carried on to some
extent in the county.

In addition to the means of communication afforded by the Intercolonial Railway
and the .Saint John ri\er, the Saint Martins and U|»ham Riihvay runs from Hampton to
Saint Martins on the Hay of Fund) . a distance of 30 miles, the New Brunswick Railway
])asses througli the western part of the county, and the Central, and the Havelock, Elgin
& Petitcodiac Railways will add to the already ample means of transit. The last named
road will give access to the fine district of Havelock, one of the few parts of Kings
county in which ungranted land is open for settlement.

SAINT JOHN cor NTY.

The cities of Saint John and Portland are separated only by lines invisible lo the
ordinary eye. They contain about 4,3,000 people, or four-fifths of the ijojiulation of the
county. The commercial interests are therefore the more important in this part of New
Bnmswick, though farming is prosecuted with sue* ess in the suburban distriits antl the
remote j^arts of the comity

The city of Saint John has a magnificent harlior, which never freezes, and which is
accessible at all seasons and safe in ;ill kinds of weather. Some of the finest merchant
vessels that have ever borne the British flag have hailed from this i)ort and its staimch.
handsome and swift clijiper ships have carried its fiv.ne to all parts of the world. More
than a quarter of a million tons of shipping are 011 its registry, and its fame as a maritime
city has ever been a soun c of honest pride to its people. It is the great port of shipment
for the Province. ( )vei- 230.000,000 teet of deals, etc.. are shipped from hence in a
season, besides large quantities of sm;iller linnber. The greater portion of this is cut and
sawn on the river .Saint John and its tributaries. The great imrease of tliis industry is
shown bv the fact that fiirty vears ago the yearly shipment of deals was about 128,000
feet and thai of lioauls some 10.000.000 feet. The chief trade is with (Ireat liiitain.
Nearlv 4000 vessels, large and small, representing; about 750,000 tons arrive ;n Snint John
in the course of a year.

The industries of Saint lohn inchidi' a great vaiiety of the iiset'ul arts and mami-
fac^tures. Lumber, of course, holds a prominent place, but apart from this are foundries,
mills and factories of every description, including one of the leading cotton mills of
Canada. The productions of tlu' various industries an>oimts to about $s, 000.000 a year.

Saint lohn harbor has excellent fi.sheries, in aihlition to those of the Pav of lMU\dy.
Herring, shad and gaspereaux are (aught in l.uge quantities, ,ind salmon aie also taken
in their season.

The fire of 187; caused a fearful loss of property to the city, but the buildings since
erected are much more handsome and substantial than the ones which were burned.
The Custom House is an esi)ecially fine structure. The other public buildings, the
churches and i)rivate houses are, as a rule, of fine appearance. The Intercolonial
Railway Passenger Depot is a splendid affair, erected at a cost of about $150,000, and is
furnished with every convenience for the comfort of the patron*; of the road.

The New Brunswick Railway connects with tlie Intercolonial at Saint John, extending
up the river and also going westerly until it joins the railway system of the United States.
The Grand Southern railway extends along the shore from S.aint John to St. Stephen.

NOVA SCOTIA — CUMBERLAND COUNTY.

Leaving Westmoreland, New Brunswick, the boundary line of Nova Scotia is crossed
and the county of Cumberland reached. This county has an area of 1,031,875 acres
and a population of about 28,000. It is an especially good farming district, has flourishing
industries, and is rich in mines and minerals.

Amherst, the shire town, has a population of nearly 5000. It has made very ra.]nd
strides in every way since the construction of the Intercolonial Railway. A quarter of a
century ago the ])opulation was less than 2800. The total trade of the ))lace in 1867
was about $96,000. and it has increased until it is now about $260,000. .\bout 30,000
tons of shipping goes out of the port in a year. Among the industries are a boot and shoe
factory, a steam tannery, planing mills, a wood factory, stove and machine works and
other important concerns.

Cumberland has a larger area of dyked marsh land than any county in Nova Scotia.
These marshes are very fertile, producing as much as two tons of natural grass an acre,
and they require no manure. The annual crop of hay in the county is over 60,000 tons,
and so abundant is this useful product that some farmers are not only able to keep a
large stock of cattle, but sell from one to two hundred tons of hay every year. The
county has more than 160,000 acres of improved land, of which about 83,000 acres are
under cro]). It raises annually about 85,000 bushels of wheat, or 90 per cent, more than
it raised ten years ago, 181,000 bushels of oats, and 750,000 bushels of potatoes. The
increase in potatoes and hay has been about 50 per cent, in ten years.

Cumborland includes a part of the great Nova Scotia coal fields, which occui)y a
known area of about 685 scpiare miles. The county has nine mines, some of which,
however, are new and worked only to limited extent. These mines emi)loy over 11 00
hands, and during the year 1886 they produced 439.012 tons of coal. The S|)ring Hill
mines alone employ over 1000 men. and their output in 1S86 was 416,769 tons, the largest
of any mine in the Province, 'i'he coal is shipped chietly by the Intercolonial to New
Brunswick and Quebec, though during the ])resent year a large (piantity has been sent
from the port of Pairsboro to the New England States. There are four slopes at Spring
Hill, one of which is over 1300 feet deep. Tiie seams arc from nine to thirteen feet
thick, and have been jjroved along a!)out three miles. Fourteen years ago the output of
coal for Cumberland was only 15,750 tons. The Spring Hill mines, which then had an
output of 1450 tons, now produce more than the total annual coal sales of the Province
twenty five years ago.

'J'iie lumber cut ot Cumberland is about 32.000.000 a year. In addition to the saw
mills, factories of varif)us kinds are fi)und in all parts of tiie county. The woolen goods
made at Oxford are known all over the world. Valuable freestone ([uarries are worked
at Wallace, and large quantities of grindstones are sliipped from Lower Cove. The
fisheries of the county amount to about $66,000 in annual value. Ship building is .ilso

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an important industry. Good harbors for shipment are found at Wallace, Pugwash and
Parrsboro. The clearances from the latter port are about 14,000 tons a year.

Ihe railway from Spring Hill junction to Parrsboro, 33 miles, is owned by the
Cumberland Railway and Coal Company, owners of the Spring Hill mines, and is an
important feeder of the Intercolonial. Another railway, to run from Maccan station, on
the Intercolonial, to the Joggins mines on the Bay of Fundy, is now under contract. Its
length will be 1 1 miles, and it will be of material benefit not only to the Joggins mines,
the second largest in the county, but to other coal mines which lie along its route.

COLCHESTER C () L: N T Y .

The population of Colchester is about the same as that of Cumberland' and it is like
that county rich in agricultural resources. Truro, its chief town, situated at the head of
Cobequid Bay is a very busy as well as a beautiful place. It has a population of over
4000, and its central position has givMi it a large trade Among its industries are three
last factories, two tanneries, two foundries, hat, shoe, shoe-peg and organ factories, saw
inills and a milk-condensing establishment. The Provincial Normal and Model Schools
are situated here.

One of the great industries of the county is found in the Londonderry Iron Works,
at Acadian Mines. Iron ore is very abundant in Colchester, extending for fifty miles m
the Cobecjuid Hills, and is of such excellent quality that only one kind of Swedish iron
is superior to it for making steel. The works are operated by the Canada Steel Comi)any
which began operations with a capital of £400,000 sterling, and has carried on an
extensive business for the last thirteen years. Both pig and bar iron are manufactured
and a ready market is found for the total product in Canada. More than 52.000 tons of
ore were mined in Londonderry in 1886. The land of the company includes nearly
40,000 acres on the Cobeepiid Hills as well as a coal property in Cumberland. In
addition to the smelting furnaces, coke ovens and rolling mills, there is a foundry in wiiich
large quantities of car wheels, etc , are made.

.\mong the other mineral resources of Colciiester are limestone, of which nearly
16,000 tons were (juarried at Londonderry anil Brookfield in 1885 : manganese, mined
at East Mountain ; barytes. at Brookfield : copper, at 'i'ataniagouche. and mineral paints
at Londonderry, Onslow and Stewiacke.

.\s much as 46 bushels of wheat to the acre has been raised in Colchester, and other
grains give splendid results. The comity also produces large crops of hay, having the
advantage of some good marshes, '{"here are 1000 aires of dyked marsh on the Shuben-
acadie River, and 500 acres on the Stewiacke River.

Siiipbuililing and lumbering are carried on to some extent in the county and the
fisheries are also an import.mt source of revenue.

Pit TO U (01 N TV.

Colchester, with its inexhaustible supjilies of iron, has for its neighbors, the counties
of Ciunberland anil Pictou. with their vast areas of coal. In the Pictou field, according
to Sir William Logan, the famous geologist, there are 3567 feet of strata, containing 141
feet of coal, in 16 beds which vary in thickness from 3 to 34 feet. The outjjut of
four mines last year was 413,735 tons. The average for the last fiuir \ears. iiowever, is
466,110 tons, and the output in 18S4 was over 511.000 tons. In additiun to the ordinary
bitiuninous coal, cannel coal has been found in several places, and has yielded 126
gallons of crude oil to the ton.

Three-fifths of the coal raised in Nova .Scotia i oiues from Pictou and Cumberland.

The remainder is mitied on the Islaml of Cape Hreton. Coal mining has been carried
on in the Province for about a hundred years, but the sales in 1785 were only 1688 tons,
and it was not imtil about sixty years ago tliat work was begun on a large scale. Since
then the trade has grown steadily so that the sales have increased from 12,600 tons in
1826 to 1.254,310 tons in J&H^. The total amount raised in the latter year was 1,350,220
The total sales for the last hiuidred years have been 23,545,447 tons, and half of
this 'amount has been raised in the last twelve years. It is only since 1880 that the
sales have e.sceeded a million tons a year.

Pictou county has anting its other mineral resources, iron, manganese, marble,
I;':ilding stone and barytes. lis fisheries are worth nearly $200,000 a year, and it has
foundries, glass-works, tobacco factories and all the ordinary industries common to the
various counties of the Maritime Provinces. The chief towns are Pictou and New
Glasgow. 'Ihe former has a splendid harbor, the best on this coast, and does an extensive
shijjpiiig and general business. The cral trade is. of course, a leading feature. 'I'he
population is about 4000. New (llasgow is a town which has built some of the finest
of the Nova Scotia ships. Its glass works, iron and steel works are among the ])rominent
industries.

The soil of Pictou county is of good ipiality. and fanning is carried on with profit.
All the leading products of the soil are raised here. Wheat is cultivated with great
success.

A N T I G ( ) N I S H COUNTY.

This county is underlaid with coal though mining has not yet been carried on to any
extent. It has also large deposits of gypsum, one cliff of this mineral, at Saint George's
Bay, being 200 feet high. Nearly 100.000 tons of gypsum were ex|)orted from the
Province last year, .\ntigonish has also building stone, marble, limestone and cojiper.
Wheat and other crops are raised in large ipiantities. The village of .Vntigonish is the
chief place in the county and has an excellent harbor. The fisheries of the county wee
worth $109,000 to it last year.

Leaving .Vntigonish the Intercolonial runs through a portion of Guysboro county
until it reaches the .Strau of Canseau. Beyond this lies the Island of Cape Breton with
its splendid harbors, valuable fisheries and wonderful dejjosits of coal. Guysboro is one
of the leading fishing counties in the Province. Last year its fisheries amounted to
nearly three cpiarters of a million dollars. Lobsters are caught in great tpiantities around
the shore. The county has also several of the gold mines of Nova Scotia.

H.\ LU' AX cor NTV,

After passing through CoUluster. on the main line, the Intercolonial pas-es through
a small part of Hants county antl enters the county of Halifax. The city of Halifax is
the first p.;rt of this county to claim attention. .\ general idea of it is given in
another ] 'art of these pages. It has a population of about 40,000 and is the fourth in
size of the cities of Canada. It is als(j the deep-water terminus of the Intercolonial
Railway, and has a grain elevator, built at the cost of$ioo. 000, with a capacity of 130,000
bushels. Its cotton factory has a ca])acity t)f 10.000 spindles and is called the finest in
the Maritime Provinces. The Xova Scotia sugar refinery cost half a million dollars
and it has a capacity of jooo barrels a day. There is another large refinery in Dart-
mouth on the op|josite side of the harbour. Halifax has also a marine railway, but the
most important of the works around the harbor is the dry dock, now un<ler construction.
This will cost about a million d illars. uul when coirpleted. will accommodate the

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111 in
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largest ships aHoat. 'I'his dock will not only be one of the great features of Halifax but will
be a work of which all Canada may be jjroud.

The harbor of Halifax is well termed one of the tinesl in the world, i'he commercial
interests of the city have alw.ys been most extensive, and shipping is always around its
waters in craft of all kinds and of every nation which has a foreign trade. This harbor
is six miles long with the average width of a mile, and it is not only a capacious sheet of
water, but a very beautiful one.

As frequent reference has been made to the mines and minerals of the I'rovince, it
may be stated that over $507,000 worth of jiroducts of the mine were ex])orted from
Halifax in the year 1885. This includes only a small part of tlie coal raised, for as before
stated, much of this is carried by land over the Intercolonial Railway. I'he greater
portion of the products sent from Halifax was nothing less than native gold. Tlie value
of this was a little less than $398,000. Some of the most valuable mines are in Halifax
county, and it was at Mooseland. east of Halifax city, tiiat the tirst discovery of gold was
made. The gold fields of the Province, which extend along this .shore, are estimated to
cover an area of some 3000 sciuare miles. Much of the work done at the mines in the
past, has, however, lacked system and there is every reason to believe that much greater
results will be obtained in the future. The yield in 1S85 was 22,203 ounces, the largest
in any year since 1867. .Since 1S62. desjiite the desultory character of the mining, the
gold extracted and accounted for to the goNernnient has been 389,180 ounces, valued at
$7,005,240.

The county of Halifax extends along the .\tlantic coast nearly a hundred miles and
has a number of tine harbors, Its fisheries are second in value only to the great fishing
county of Lunenburg, and are valued at nearly a inilliou dollars a year.

I'RINCK 1: 1)\V.\RI) ISL.XND.

Only a ))assing glance can be given to this fair and fertile island in the (julf of St.
Lawrence. It has an area of 2133 sfpiare miles, and its soil yields the iiiost abundant
crops. Its potatoes are famous not only in (.'anada, but in the New England .States, to
which large quantities are exported. The oats, which are raised in even larger c|uantities,
are greatly prized for their excellent qualities, ,ind hundreds of do/.ens of eggs are sent
out every year. The soil is well adapted to ( rojis of all kinds, and is especially favorable
to grasses. Some ot the best of working horses are raised on the island and large numbers
of these as well as of sheep are exported. Shipbuilding is one of the industries, and the
value of the fisheries in 1885 was $1,293,421). Among the jjroducts of the shores are
immense (]uantilies of excellent oysters, and the mud of the oyster and mussel beds is
used as a fertilizer with suprising results.

The iiopulalion of I'rince Kdwaril Island is about iio,ooo, anil ('harloitetown, the
leading city, has about 12,000. .\ railway owned and operated by the Canadian
(lovernment runs from one end of the island to the other, a distani'e of nearly 200 miles.
Communication is had by steamers with the other .Maritime Provinces and the I'nited
States. Tlu' soil and climate are all that the farmer could desire, and land ready for
working i:an l)e had at most reasonable rates.

The c.ountry through which the Intercolonial Railway jjasses. in (Quebec, New
Brunswick, Nova Scotia and I'rince Kdward Island is not only a country abounding in
the picturesque and beautiful, but it is one which in soil, climati.' and resources offers

every inducement to the settler. Its growth has been gradual and sure, and its great
prosperity in the future is no mere dream, but an absohite certainty. It has none of the
evils of the much vaunted lands of the Western States, and the settler who seeks its
shores does not need to be a capitalist. It offers all the educational and religious
advantages which the settler may possess in the land he leaves behind him, its laws offer
security to all, it gives, in short, all the attractions of a new world, with all the privileges
of an old one. It has room for all who come, and its welcome is as honest as it is free
and hearty.

NTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY,

HOTEL LIST.

'l"lie following list of princiiml hotels, with their
known, on the line of the Intercolonial Railway between
of tourists ;incl the travelling imblic generally :

H.M.Il'AV.

No.

.\.\Mi; ilF HOTI-.I. I'l'Ol'KIKTUK. ClKSTS.

Ilalifa.x, . . . II. Ili'sslein 6- Son. . . l2o

IJueen V. li. Sheraton. . . . loo

Waverly, . . Miss Romans .... 50

HKDIORD.

Clareninit Iloii-i.-. 11. 1!. Sellon 40

Ik-Ue \'ue. . . . Ihos. lieach 40

ru lor.

New Revere ^

MAV (;i,AS(.0\V.

Norfolk. ... II. Murray, ... 100

Windsor, . . . 1 '. Mclven/.ie 50

Vendcime. . . D. MeDearniid, ... <)0

AMHERST.

Terrace Hotel. . W. J. Haniilloii. . . . .^5
I,ani;iys, . . . I )avis ( alhoun, . . 40

S.\t K\ ILI.K.

lirunsuick HdU-e. ( i. H. Kastalirooks e--' Smis 40

1)()Rcih:s'Ti:r.

Dorchester House, ( leo. K. Wallace. . . 70
Weldon House, . I >. McDonald, ... 50
Hillsdale House. . S. S. Nickersun, . . jO

capacity for the entertainment of guests so far as
Halifax and Quebec, is given for the information

SHKDIAC.

Xo.

NAMK 1>|.- IIOTKI.. I'KOl'KlKroK ('.IKSTS.

Wei don House, . J. D. VVeldon, ... 60

POINT DL' CHKNE.

I'ointduCliene House, (ieo. L. Hanington, 50

MONCTON.

lirunswick, . . tleo. McSweeney, . . 100

Commercial. . . A. C. Jones, . ... 100

(Jueen, . . . Mrs. V. Clallagher, . . jO

I'l'.TnCCJDIAC.

Mansard House. . K. S. Ritchie 30

ST. JOHN.

Royal, .... 'T. I'. Raymond. ... 125

Dullerin, . . K. A. Jones .... loo

Waverly, . . . D. McCormack, . . . loo

New \ictoria, . D. W. McCormack . 125

I'ark, .... W. Conway, .... 80

Clarendon, . . M. E. 6^ W. B. (lanong 40

liehnont. . . . \- N. Donaldson, . . 40

liowser's, .
Melropolitan,
<- anada House,

Waverley,
l",xclianj;e.
I'nion, .

.\. N. Donaldson,

(HA I HAM.

Mrs. Howser, .
— Jardine. . •
W. I. Johnson,

NEW CASTI.E.
.\. Stewart,
. J. E. Jardine,
Mrs. Desmond,

75
10
10

HATIUKST.

NAMK Ol IlDTKI.. PKdI'HIKTIIK.

Keany's, . . . !'. !•. Keaiiy, .
Carter's, ... J. T. Carter, .
Albert House, . Mrs. tirant, .

Barclay's,

JACijUKT klVEK.

. . W, barclay, ,

DALHOUSIE.

Murphy's, ... — Murphy, .

Thomson'^, . . Mrs. Thomson,

Delaney's, ... — Deianey, .

Inch Arran Hou<e,

Phillips', . . . Miss I'hlUips,

CAMlMiEI.LTO.V.
I^insdowne, . . I). W. Dohertv.
Royal, .... J. Spioulc. . .
West's, ... J. West, . . .
O'Keeffe's, . . II. O'Keetle, .

Liri'LE MKIIS.
Turriff Hall, . . K. Turriff, . .
.Sea-Sifle House, . NV. Astle, . .
Turriff's, . . . Win. TurritV, .
Cascade, ... J. 1". Macnider,
Roy's, .... .\. Roy, . .

RlMOL'SKl.

Rimouski,
St. I^wrence,

Bic House, .

Krs. St. Laurent,
A. S. St. Laurent.

lUC.
Mrs. Deschere,

No.

C.rEtiTS.

. . 60
• ■ '5
■ • '5

200

25
25
25
25

ISO

180

40
40

TROIS PISTOLES.

No.

NaMI-; 01 IIoTI!!.. rK<lI'RIl:TOR. GfKSTS.

Dery's,

Larochelles,
Fraserville,

The Beaches, .

Uavid Dery, . . ,
RIVIERK I)U LOUP.
. Cormier df Uionne,
. Jos. Deslauriers, . .

RICHIHUCTO.
. K. E. Phair, . . .
CACOUNA.

SO
20

St. Lawrence Hall, Shipman, 600

Mansion House, . Cioudreau, 100

KAMOL'RASKA.

St. Louis, .
lieaubien's.
Beaupre's, .

Bernier's, .

I^tourneau's,

Cote's,

Victoria,

. Mrs. A. Gagne, .
Mrs. Beaubien,
Lewis Beau pre,

ST. THOMAS.

V. X. Bernier, .
Louis Letourneau,
. Mrs. C. Cote, . .

POINT LE\ L

. Wm. I'olield, . .

(A'EBEC.

20
40
30

25
10

100

St. Louis, . . . W. Russell, Manager, . 350

Russell House, . W. Russell, .... 200

Dominion, ... J. Poitras, loo

Mountain Hill House, E. Dion, 50

Hlanchard's, . . Capt N. Pelletier, . . 50

The I'lorence 75

100

125
too
100

125

80
40
40

75
10

CANADIAN RATES OF POSTAGE.

On letters within tlif Doniiiiioii. ,; cents per half
ounce each. Letters paid less Jiaii one rate will not
be fbrwarded ; others short i)aid are taxc<l double
deficient i)osiaj.;e.

City delivery. Not exceediii); half oz., 1 cent ;
not exceeding 1 oz., .■ cents. When posteil uniiaid
will be sent to dead letter office.

To C.reat llritain - Letter rate scents per halfimucc.
Postal Cards j cents each ; Newspapers under .( oz.,
2 cents.

Newspapers and Periodicals. -Trans-

cient Newspapers anil I'eriodicals to places in Canada,
Newfoundland and liiited States. 1 cent per four
ounces. Xewsi>apers less ilian one oz.. l^ cent each.

Parcels.— To any place in Dominion d cents per
four ounces. Parcels must not exceed .•; iiouiids in
weiffht.

Circulars. Hooks. Pamphlets. Manuscripts. MiiKra-
vinjfs, Music, llotanical Specimens, fie. 1 cent per
four ounces for each packet. Hooks. Music, iNic. must
be put up open at both ends.

Patterns and Samples of Merchandise. 1 cent per
.1 oz Limit of weiKht. -M oz. Samples to the V. S.
not to exceed s oz.. i)i'..taKe on which is 10 cents.

Limit of weifjht lor Hooks. Newspai>ers. Docu-
ments. iSic. is I lbs. 6 oz., and limit of size 24 inches
in length by u in dei)tli or breadth. Limit for sam-
I)les s', oz.. and size s long and .| deep. These apply
to all Postal union destinations.

Post Cards one cent each. I'ost Hands 2 cents.
Keply or double Post Cards j cents each.

Money Orders issued and jiaid from id a.m. to .\ p.m.

Money Orders, -on orders drawn in any

Money Order Office on any other Office in Canada.

If not exceeding » ( . -'c.
over » .(

ID .

.sc.

JO .

UK-.

40 .

. 20c.

(XI .

- .V>C.

So .

40c.

100 .

. .SOC.

Money Orders issued and paid from 10 n.ni to4 p.m.
Letters registered to any part of the Dominion, 2
cents each.

IMAGE EVALUATION
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WiBSTER.H.Y. MS80

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CANADA'S

HEALTHIEST SUMMER RESORT,

DALHOUSIE, NEW BRUNSWICK.

Opaxi. ■ mn .-a.aaiy fircixi T-ULXi* 1S%33. to Ssptasafsar IStJx.

THE INCH ARRAN HOUSE.

Patronized by Hit Excellency the Marquis of Lantdowne, Governor-General of Canada, as well as the leading families of the Dominion.

• HIS FINK HOTFCI,. situated at the head of the liaie des Chaleurs. was erected in 1884, and enlarged in 1887,
to donblc its former capacity. Improveineiits have also been made, and conveniences introduced, so that
Kuestshave now all the comforts of a city hotel in addition to the enjoyments to be found at a seaside reeott.
The sanitary arrangements are perfect. Pure water, thorough drainage, water closets of modern style
on each floor, and bath-rooms supplied with hot, cold and salt water.
No place on this continent possesses more attractions tor Tourists and Health Seekers than Dalhousie and
its environs.

The Hotel stands within a few yards of the shore, facing the open seo. A carriage drive only separates its
broad covered verandas from a sandy beach, half a mile in extent, where bathing can ne enjoyed with safety by
the youngest, at high or low tide. The gradual slope of the sandy beach makes it specially favorable for .swimming.
In addition to the attractions of the sea, the Hotel is surrounded by some of the

KINKST iSCtCNEKV IN THE IJOMINION.

The views from the grounds surrounding the Hotel, fnun Dalhousie Mountain behind it, and from Tragadi-
gash Mountain on the opposite shore ofthe Hay. and the Sugar I.oaf Mountain, near Carapbcllton are among the
nnest in the world.

The fishing and shooting to be obtained in this neighborhood are unequalled in America.

Salmon and trout fishing can be had in rivers leased by the Hotel.

In the immediate vicinity of the Hotel, there are magnificent trout and salmon rivers, whilst the surround-
ing country embraces the far-famed Restigouche and Metapedia rivers lat the junction of which staiuls the Lodge
ofthe Restigouche Salmon Club of New York); Causapscal, the fishing ground of her Royal Highness the
Princess l.ouise ; and the Cast ipedia. the favorite fishing-resort of His Kxcelleucy the Ciovernor-Cieneral.

Communication to all poi its of interest is easy, either by Railway or by Steamer. Dalhousie is the terniinus
for the .steamboat, which runs to (.asp^', calling at all ports oii the liaie des Chaleurs.

The walks and drives in the neighborhood of the Hotel are extremely beautt''ul, and the road8 are excellent.
Boating can be enjoyed in perfecion. and with entire safety.

The Hotel is provided with I le usual out-door amuseiireiits. aiulalso with a billiard Room and a Howling Alley.

The Inch Akkan Hoisk .s about one mile distant from the Dalhousie Station ofthe Intercolonial Railwav.
I'art bv Carriage from the Stntlon to the Hotel, ^s cents

There is a I.ivery S'.nhle on tlie premises.

The following is t'.ie scale of jjrices at the Inch Akk.vn:—

Per IV.onth, from $40 to $50, according to location of room.
PerWeek, from lOto 15, " " "

Per Lay, from 2 to 3, " " "

Reasonable rates ""or children and .servants.

For further iiifiuniation address P. 0. Box 870, Montreal. P. Q. Canada; "I" during the season from

June i.sth to September '5tii. The Inoh Arran House, Dalhousie, N. B. Canada.

iiiiiiiii

The "Long Branch" of New Brunswick.

NEW SUMMER HOTEL,

THE BEACHES

RICHIBUCTO, N. B.

MCE attenlioii of tourists and pleasure seekers is particularly requested to the new and spacious first-class
Summer Hotel which has been recently erected in the charming little town of Kichibucto and which will
be ready for the reception of quests about the middle of June. 1887. No pains or expense have been spared
to make this hotel, in all its appointments as a summer resort, the finest and most complete in the Dominion.
The hotel and furniture will be all new and of the most modern style, and the rooms will be large and airy with
all the latest improvements, inchidin)^ Hot and Cold Salt Water Baths in the house, and for those who prefer the
luxury of out-door hathinff, commodious bathing houses will be erected on the beach where salt water bathing
can always be enjoyed in a delightful temperature during the summer mouths. Spacious Ball and Music Rooms,
Billiard Hall. Bowling Alleys. Air-gun (iallery, Hand-ball Court, I'igeou Trap Shooting, I<awn Tennis Court,
Croquet I.awu, Base Ball and Cricket Clrounds, and Merry-go-rouud and Swiiigs for the children. Special attention
will be paid to the luishie and no effort will be spared to make the guests comfortable. There will be a first-class
Livery Stable, completely e<|uipped, connected with the hotel. Saddle horses, Buck-board waggons, &c., &c.
The walks and drives in the vicinity are varied and romantic through a section of country which cannot be
Hurpassed for natural beauty and picturesque grandeur. Due of the most attractive drives is to the village of
St. Louis, situated seven miles from Kichibucto. which can be reached either by rail or waggon. It is a famous
Kaith-Cure resort. The Crucifixion Cirotto and Church, beautiful in de.sigu and exquisitely frescoed, are attractive
features of this locality.

Kichibucto possesses a salubrious cliumte and with its fresh sea bree/.es, sunny days and cool nights, is
remarkably healthy.

This is the beau-ideal of a sportsman's resort where Duck, Brant, Wild Goose, Plover and Partridge al)ound,
and the Trout ami deep sea fishing cannot be excelled. Steam Yachts, Sailing and Kow-twats will be kept for the
accommodation of gue.sts. The harbor is capacious and sheltered so that those who enjoy yachting and txjwing
can gratify their imutical tastes with ab.solute .safety.

The Kent Northern Railway trains connect with all Intercolonial Railway Kxpress trains lor Kichibucto.

Ask Ticket Agents for excursion tickets to the " Bk.\chks " at Kichibucto.

Kor rates and other information apply to

fcC. B. PHAIR. Supt. Iv. N. R'y.

Rlchibucto, N. B.

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