IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^.^^ ??• ^ ** Z ^^Aif 1.0 1.1 125 itt|2£ ■^ Ui 12.2 [£ 1^ H2.0 u m • llll ||||i-4 |l.6 < 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation ■j's v.'i$T MAIN smieT Vi«KTn,N.Y. 14!^ 80 4? \ V \ A ^. 6^ '0 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiquas Tachnicai and Bibliographic Notas/Notas tachniquaa at bibliographiquaa Tha Instituta has attamptad to obtain tha bast original copy nvailabia for filming. Faaturas of this copy which may ba bibliographically uniqua, which may altar any of tha imagaa in tha reproduction, or which may significantly changa tha usual mathod of filming, ara ehackad balow. 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AdditionsI comments:/ Commentaires supplAmantairas; L'Institut a microfilm* la meilleur exemplaira qu'il lui a it* possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaira qui sont paut-itre uniques du point de vue bibliographiqua. qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger una modification dans la mithoda normale de fiimaga sont indiquis ci-de&sous. Tl to |~n Coloured pages/ D Pagea da couleur Pages damaged/ P;f!-,-^^' ^ ' *--!pd liii;:.: ^^ ^m em ^.^^f^-^^ !4:v^;--.i ' »»»I*W»>#<*" «M*^J»- (> ■iM. The EDITH and LORNE PIERCE OLLECTION of CANADI ANA C ^eeris University at Kingston k ■■'%l I \ \ QOEEirS UMVERSrn UBMIf V - • , PLEASANT PLACES BY THB SHORK AND IN k THE FORESTS OF QUEBEC Ha c K B. < H V X f- o X IT, AND THE H MARITIME PROVINCES, VIA THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY, CANADA HANK NOTE COMPANY, liMiiin MONTREAL. L.-P rc^uar'-s "CI li's^'T DEPRRTMENT OF RIILWMS, CfiNfiDS. \. ©ANADI/IN SOYERMMENT RaILW/IYS. Intercolonial System, 801 Miles. Kastern Kxtension System, SO 1 'rince Kdward Island System, 210 Total. . - - . 1,181 Hon. JOHN HSNRY POPe, Minister of Railways and Canals, OTTAWA. COLLINGlfliOOD SCHREIBER. Chief Engineer and General Manager Canadian Government Railways, OTTAWA. INTERCOLONIHL SYSTEW. (■,i;m:k.m. oi tickrs Kksidknt at Moscton, N. H. 1 ) l'( )'!" 11 NCIKK Chief Sujierintemlent. I'. S. ARHIIHA1.D Chief Engineer. lilOS. WILLIAMS Chief Accounwnt and Treasurer. H A \N' 1 1 ^^NK^' Mechanical Superintendent. (;K( ). TAV l.( )k General Freight Agent. \ HUSKY (ieneral I'assenger Agent. T V CtJOKK (ieneral Storekeeper. IN CHHRCE OF DISTRICTS. L L \V ALI..\CK, Triiro, N. S., Suiierintendenl Halifax and St. Joim District. LAS. K. I'KICE, Canipliellton, N. H., Siii)erintendent Monctim and Ste. Klavie District. A. K. McDonald, Riviere du Loup, I'. THAT which we call a preface by any other name might tell us much. To be candid at the outset, this is really a preface ; but the glittering bait of another title has been iaftixed, in order to induce the public to read it. A book intended for the information of tourists •- usually either a mass of dry facts and figures, or a collection of elaborate lies. In the following pages an effort has been made to find a medium between the two, and t( xvoid alike the monotony of the statistical bore and the mendacity of the colonization agent. This book is not intended for a cyclfipedia or a gazetteer. The historian and statisticiin were abroad when the work was begun, and up to the hour of going to press had nut returned. Their works are for sale by the leading publishers, and are more reliable than any epitome can pcjsibly be. No family should be without them, but the traveller can suit his own taste. What the writer has aimed at is a brief account of the country traversed by the Intercolonial Railway, and of some of the chief places of interest along the line. The design is to give the pleasure-seeker, the fisherman and the sportsman an idea of the places where their respective wants may be supplied. This work is necessarily a condensation of material which would suffice to fill a volume ; and as there has been barely space enough to tell the truth, the statements may be accepted as tolerably correct. For a like reason no attempt has been made to become enthusiastic, and the scenes described will usually be found to more than realize the accounts of their various attractions. As comparatively few people ever read a preface, the foregoing remarks would be omitted were it not that there are some who invariably do read a preface, and who would be annoyed if a book did not contain one. If this be found lacking in the elements which a preface ought to possess, a more lengthy, solemn and conventional one will be prefixed to the next edition. VV. KILBV REYNOLDS. ^i^vi^^^^^5S»m^^l<^tSSatmm SOMETHING ABOUT EXCURSIONS. AMEIRICA is a land of humorists, and the exceeding humor of its people shines forth in their habits of life. Life was made to be enjoyed, and they enjoy it whether the sun shines or not. Not that they are an idle people, for they are notoriously the reverse, but that they pass through ordeals which would test even the jollity of Mark Tapley. and profess themselves delighted amid their afflictions. In other words, a man of business will work hard for ten or eleven months of the year, and then, with the idea that he needs rest and recreation, will put himself and his family through a course of sprouts fearful to contemplate. This course of sprouts is humorously termed a fashion- able pleasure excursion. It consists in a season of preparation and packing, of a setting forth " to join the innumerable caravan," and of several weeks of wretched unrest amid the dust, heat, crush and confusion of some i)opular resort where it is the correct thing for everyone to go. There is no little humor in all this. They seek freedom from restraint, and go to a vortex of fashion ; they seek quiet, and are mingled in a Babel ; they seek rest, and at the close of each day are ready to drop with fatigue. Gasjiing amid crowds on the hottest days, packed in overflowing hotels during the sultry nights, swindled by hackmen, bored by guides, |)ested by humbugs, tormented by flies — crushed, wilted, worried, driven Iialf mad — they, with infinite humor, term all this, pleasure I .Vmid such a scene, while lying half-stifled in a small but high-priced cell, near the eaves of some large but well crowded hotel, the wearied traveller kicks the drapery of his couch from around him and lies down to troubled dreams. Amid them come visions of a lanrl wiiich lies by the sea and is fanned by cooling breezes from the ocean, In this land are green hill.s. sliady groves and fertile valleys. From the distant mountains the cr\ stal brooks come leaiiing with the music of gladness, and join with noble rivers in wiiose clear waters dwell lordly salmon and scarce less lordly trout. Near at hand are forests, .as yet so little disturbed that the moose, caribou and bear, now and again visit the farm-yards of the adjacent settlements, and gaze in bewildered suri>ri.se at the man whose hand is raised to slay them. Along the shore, for hundreds of miles, lie land- locked harbors where even the frail bark canoe may float in safety, yet ui)on the waters of the o;ean : and upon the smooth sand beaches of which even a child may venture into the buoyant salt-water and fear not. In this country is scenery at times of sweet pastoral simplicity ; at times of sublime grandeur. It is a land where civilization has made its way. and > ot not marred the beauty of Nature. It is a country where the traveller sated with an excess of conventional " excursions " will find much that is novel, much that will charm, and much that will ever remain to him as a sweet remembrance of a pleasant clime. "Ah!" sighs the dreamer, "would that such a lot were mine. Such places there may be, but where are they? .My guide books tell not of th.en. To find them, one must abandon the comforts of daily life, go far beyond reach of daily mails and telegrams, become isolated from the busy world, and live hundreds of miles from the confines of civilization. 10 *i Not so. Voii Iiave perhaps been down the St. Lawrence as far as Quebec, from which, as the Ultima Tliule of your excursion, you returned to your home. Take your map and trace that line wliich leads from Quebec down the St. Lawrence, across to New Brunswick, and down its coast to Nova Scotia, where it ends at the City of Halifax To the east and west arms rcacli out to Pictou and St. John, and another branch traverses Prince Edward Island. This is the Intercolonial Railway, one of the most substantially constructed and best equipped lines in the world. It runs through hundreds of miles of just such a country as has been mentioned. Pleasure and sport may be enjoyed in numberless places and yet the traveller will be within the reach of daily mails and the telegraph, and may live like a prince at a very moderate outlay. It is the land for which you have sighed ; try it and be convinced Ho, for Quebec and the ])rovinces by the sea. QUEBEC. We are within the walls of one of the most notable cities of America — one of the most famous places in the world. There are cities which are more fair to look upon ; there are some which the mere pleasure seeker esteems more highly ; and there are many which have distanced it in the march of progress. There is but one Quebec, — old, quaint and romantic, — the theatre which has witnessed some of the grandest scenes in the dramas played by nations. The story of Quebec is recorded in history, but no historian can do justice to the theme. From the day when the tleet of the intrepid Cartier cast anchor on these shores, down to the hour when the last gun was fired in anger from yon batteries, the story is a romance wiiich fiction cannot surpass. What scenes of hope and fear, of deep patience, imdaunted courage and unflagging zeal, have these old rocks witnessed. What dreams of ambition, what bold projects for the Glory of God and the honor of France, have here been cherished. Hither, from across the sea, came heroes. Some sought fame, and found nameless graves ; some grasi)ed for wealth, and miserably perished ; while some, animated solely by a zeal for the cross, won martyrs' crowns in the distant wilderness. For a century and a half the banner of France waved on this rocky height. Priest, soldier and citizen had followed the "star of empire " to the western world and found themselves in another France, of which Quebec was to be the Piris, and within the vast territories of which should arise a mighty nation. Here was the seat of the power of France in America ; within these walls were held the ("ouncils of State; and from these rocks went forth the edicts for the temporal and spiritual guidance of the people. For nearly a century and a quarter the English fiag has floated over the citadel, but the language, customs and religion of France remain. The Vandalism of modern improvement has not spoiled the features of Quebec. Some of the old historic buildings are gone, but many remain. \\'o may still view the solid masonry of two centuries ago. We may stand where the ])eople of the Ancient Capital stood to praise God for deliverance from the invaders : we may linger amid the shadows of the old cathedral, among rare old paintings by master hands, and think of the days when these walls echoed the 'I'e Deums for the victories of France. We may roam through queer, crooked streets, and enter (juaint old houses, in the dark corners of which we almost look for ghosts to come to us from the by-gone centuries. Everywhere may be found sometiiing to interest a mind given to contemplation. Of all the French settlements in Canada, Quebec best retains its ancient form. The hand of Time has swe|)t away the ruins of Port Royal, and the grass grows over what was once the well nigh impregnable Louisbourg; but Quebec remains, and will remain, the Niobe of the cities of France in the western world. Here WM lebec, from 'I'ake your ;, across to of Halifax her branch jf the most ns through e and sport he reach of rate outlay. Quebec and ica — one of look upon ; Te are many lebec, — old, 5t scenes in istice to the hese shores, le story is a ;p patience, at dreams of e, have here t fame, and while some, wilderness. ;ht. Priest, 1 and found hin the vast he power of . from these pie. citadel, but of modern ric buildings nturies ago. deliverance ong rare old e 7t' Deums s, and enter I come to us rest a mind best retains yal, and the but Quebe(- orld. Here 13 i li! lives Europe in America ; here the past and the present meet together ; here the seven- teenth and nineteenth centuries jostle each other in the narrow streets. Kveryone visits the citadel, and everyone is impressed with the wonderful natural advantages of the position. Had Montcalm remained within these walls, the courage of Wolfe would have been displayed in vain. As it was, fifteen minutes changed the destiny of New Fnince, and made two names inseparable and immortal. Ascend a bastion and the panorama of the St. Lawrence and its shores is simply superb. Here one could sit for hours " And come and come again, That he might call it up when far away." 'I"o see the places usually visited outside of Quebec one may employ a carter to advan- tage. There are plenty of them, and some of the local guide books give them a high character for honesty, hut the safe course is to make an agreement as to price before starting, which agreement is arrived at by a species of Dutch auction, commencing at the figures named by the carter and bidding down until a fair price is reached. The more carters there are present the more interest is attached to the proceedings, and the better chance there is of a good bargain. The men as a rule, are cheerful and obliging, so much so, that when you trust to them as guides they will tell you more than the historian and geographer ever dreamed of in their philosophy. If stopping at the St. Louis, Russell House or Florence Hotels — all good houses — carters can be procured at the offices. Outside of the city you will drive to the Plains of Abraham and picture out the scene of that eventful morning in September a century and a cpiarter ago. The inscription on one side of Wolfe's monument is as graphic and expressive as any sentence in the English language ; " Here died Wolfe victorious ! " It speaks volumes in the compass of a breath ; it is sublime in its brevity. Many are the pleasant drives around Quebec, varying from one mile to many in length. Many, also, are the toll-gates which bar the way until five cents' worth of open sesame procures a passage through. Some travellers consider these a nuisance, but all get accustomed to them at last, and feel lonely when they get back to the city, where there are none. So long as they exist, no enemy can steal a march upon the Ancient Capital. Let those who love a scene of tranquil beauty go at the close of a day in summer, or autumn, to the Dufferin Terrace and linger during the long twilight of the evening. The heat and glare of the day have passed away, and a gentle breeze comes from the river. The last rays of the setting sun are gilding the hill on the shores beyond, while the line of the distant mountains is blending with the sky. For miles and miles the eye follows the river as it Hows in silent grandeur to the sea. Distant sails seem like the white wings of sea birds, while " day in melting purple dying," lulls the mind into a dreamy calmness. The shadows deepen. The lights of Levis begin to cluster ; the houses in the Lower Town are becoming more ghostly in the gathering darkness ; a sound of soft music comes from an open casement. We are on historic ground. Here stood the stately Castle of Si. Louis, where for two hundred years the French and English rulers held their court. Its glory departed amid a whirlwind of fire. Far below we can trace the outline of a street. It is Champlain Street. How black it looks ; it reminds us of the darkness of that winter morning, long ago, when Richard Montgomery and his men rushed through it to their death. F^ery where around us have the horrors of the war been felt ; and to-nigiu all is so peaceful that the thought of war seems out of harmony with the scene. 'i'he hells from the shipping in the harbor sound musically through the tjuiet air j the plaintive notes of the bugle are home to us from the citadel ; and the flash and roar of the evening gun tells of night fallen upon the ancient Capital. the seven- Poets have sung of Quebec, but it is a poem of itself which no language can express ; its memories linger in the mind, like the sweet remembrance of harmonious music heard in the years long passed away. LEVIS, AND BEYOND. Across the broad river to Levis, and we are ready for our railway journey. If the time can be spared, a drive should be taken on the heights, for it is from these that Quebec, its harbor, the river and the surrounding country can be seen to best advantage. Here, also, can be seen additional evidences of the solicitude of England for the safety of her colonies. Fortifications, of which the cost is reckoned by millions, command every point of land and water for miles. Peace has reigned here since they were built, but they are ready for the evil hour, should it ever come. Having seen what there is of interest around this part of the St. Lawrence, including the Chaudi^re Falls, the traveller surrenders himself to the comforts of the Intercolonial. From Pointe Levis Station, where connection is made with the Grand Trunk Railway and w'ilh the steamers of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company from Montreal, a ride of one mile brings him to Levis Station, where passengers from Quebec City and the Canadian Pacific Railway take the train. The railway then skirts the shore closely for a few miles till Harlaka, the point of junction with the Quebec Central Railway, is reached. As the train gradually rises along the cliffs from the level of the water to this point, a magnificent panoramic view is had of Quebec City, the shipping in the harbour, the Falls of Montmorenci, the Island of Orleans and the great expanse of the River St. Lawrence. Passing, onward, the eye catches sight of one after another of the typical French villages, where the habitants live in peaceful quiet, little disturbed by the advent of strangers. Some of these villages are prettily situated and possess local traditions of more or less interest. Among these is Riviere Quelle, which takes its name from the tragedy of which Madame Houel was the heroine, in the days when the Iroquois roamed upon the shores. The Abbe Casgrain tells the story under the title of " La Jongleuse," and mentions that the tracks of snow shoes, imprinted on the rocks of the beach, are to be seen defying the action of wind and wave. The imprints of human feet and hands in the rock were formerly visible, but have now disappeared. Ste. Anne, one of several places of that name, is the seat of a convent of Grey Nuns and a college wiiich will accommodate about 300 students. Kamouraska is reached from St. Paschal Station, and is the first summer resort of note after leaving Quebec. A drive of about five miles from the station brings one to the village, beautifully situated on the shore. 'i"he native population is about 1,200, but the summer months see a large increase in the number of residents. Good accom- modations may lie had at the St. Louis Hotel, as well as at private houses. The place is well patronized by sisitors during the season, and is growing in favor. Governors Morris and Mactlonald, and other well-known public men, have been among those seeking recreation and rest in this ]>leasant nook. The natural advantages, as a watering- place, are admirable. i'he beach is a fine one and well sheltered. Bathing here is a luxury. .\ little distant from the shore are a number of picturesque islands, around which pleasure boats glide, anil u|)on which are the resorts of l)icnic jjarties. The situation ot Kamouraska is all that can be desired. Twenty miles below is the village of Notre Dame du Portage, deriving its name from the tact that the iKMtage across to New Brunswick, a distance of about 26 miles, was formerly nuide from this point. I'he village is six miles from Riviere du Loup by rail, and connection is also had by a good carriage road. It is a retired spot, resorted M ;!i to by families who are fond of a t;uiet vacation, bnt having a fine beach and good bathing is well worthy of a more exten led Hime. 'I'hose who have passed their summers amid its beauties have much to say in its praise. rivierf: du i,oup. Here is a place not to be passed by under the impression that its chief beauties are to be seen from the car windows. It is a village of considerable importance, with a well established rejnitation as a summer resort, and is in many respects a most convenient ])la(:e for the tdurist. It is a centre from which one may go to various ])oints, either on the St. Lawrence or back into the woods where game and fish abound, making this the head-cpiarters for the deposit of luggage and the receipt of mail matter. The full title of the place is Riviere du Loup, en l>as, the affix being given to distinguish it from another village of the same name, en haut. As the two are two or three hundred miles apart, the dis- tinction has not always been very clear to strangers. 'I'his is however, the Riviere du Loup to which letters are sent in the absence of any qualifying words. The portion of the village near the water is termed Fraserville, in honor of the Fraser family, in whom the Seigneurial Rights were vested, after the conquest of Canada in the last century. situated near the confluence of the Riviere du Loup and the St. Lawrence, and being directly on the shore of the latter, the place abounds in piciurestiue scenery of all kinds. Near the railway the smaller river makes a descent of more than 200 feet, by a succession of falls which make their way through a gorge over which high and precipitous rocks stand sentinel. In the vicinity. " hills peep o'er hills." clothed in all the varying hues of green, while toward the St. Lawrence the open country, sprinkled with well-finished houses, makes a pleasing contrast to the rugged aspect of the land which lies in the rear. Upon the shore a glorious ])rospect is open to the view. Here the estuary begins to widen in its journey to the sea. and the mountains on the northern shore, a score of miles away, stand out in bold relief against the clear blue sky. Upon the waters just far enough away to "lend enchantment to the view," are the white-winged argosies of commerce, bearing the tings of every maritime nation. .-Vt limes, a long, low shape on the waves and a long, slender doud floating lazily away marks the path of the ocean steamship. Nearer the shore are smaller craft of all sizes and shapes — fishers, traders and seekers after pleasure. If one longs tf) join them, a boat is at hand and soon is dancing on the gende billows, while the sea-birds skim the waters in their circling flights, and the solemn-eyed louf'-marin rises near at hand, vanishes and rises again, as if sent by Neptune to demand the stranger's errand. It was from these creatures, say some, that the rivL'r derived its name, rather than from the ill-visaged wolf of the forest. It is more pleasent to think so. at all events. The waters around us abound in all kinds of creatures, great and small. The chief of these is the white whale, the Bei'iiga Borea/is, which is usually, but erroneously, termed the white porpoise. Its length is from fourteen to twenty-two feet, and each carcass yields something over a hundred gallons of oil. This oil, when refined, is worth about a dollar a gallon, and as there is no scarcity of the creatures, the fishery might be made a very valuable one. The halibut and sturgeon come next in order of size, after them the salmon and then all the small fish common to this latitude. Returning to the shore, if the day is bright and warm, the long line of smooth beach, abounding in cosy nooks and corners, invites a bath. The adjective " warm " is the correct one for this part of the continent in the summer, it being a relative term which denotes an absence of cold without an excess of heat. It is never ht)t here. The days when coats, collars and cuffs become a l)urden and humanity wilts in the shade are lil >5 h and good eir summers beauties are with a well convenient Mtlier on the ing this the II title of the other village art, the dis- ■ Riviere du "he portion ly, in whom :entury. ivrenct, and enery of all ,n 200 feet, h high and othed in all y, sprinkled of the land liew. Here he northern sky. I'pon I'hite-winged nes, a long, the path of )es — fishers, id and soon K'ir circling ^ again, as if eaturcs, say r the forest. 'I'he chief iisiy, termed ach carcass )rth about a t be made a . after tlicm of smooth " warm " is ! term which The days shade are unknown on these shores. The rays of the midsummer sun are tempered by gentle breezes, which invigorate the system, and a gambol amid the waters tauses a degree of exhilaration which once enjoyed is not scon forgotten. Among the more prominent people who have spent the summer months at Riviere du Loup, may be mentioned Lord Dufferin. It is not recorded that he spoke of the scenery as " the finest in Canada," though there are about twenty-five different places of which it is claimed that he made that remark, but he did express himself pleased with the .1^ place. The views are charming, the walks and drives varied and beautiful, the bathing facilities are excellent, while the shooting and fishing in the vicinity afford ample recrea- tion to the enthusiasts of the gun and rod. Steamers call at the wharf daily, during the summer, and afford an admirable chance for seeing the places of note on the northern shore, chief among which are Murray Bay, Ta- dousac and the famed Sagiienay River. The latter is one of the most remarkable places in America — " a tremendous chasm, like that of the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea," says Bayard Taylor, "cleft for sixty miles through the heart of a mountain wilder- ness." Its waters, black and Stygian, have vast depths everywhere, while the wal's of rock tower aloft in majestic gloom which impresses the most thoughtless mind with a deep sense of awe. LTp this strange river one may ascend to Chi- coutinii, the head of navigation, about sixty- five miles from the mouth, calling at Ha ! Ha ! Bay. Tadousac, at the mouth of the river, is an old and historic settlement, and contains the ruins of the oldest church in Canada. This was another of the favorite resorts of Lord Dufferin and a number of others, Americans as well as Canadians, have handsome summer residences here. Murray Bay, about ninety miles below Quebec, is another spot were the wild and majestic scenery may be enjoyed. Numbers resort there during the summer, from various cities of Canada, many having villas built for their use during the season. Returning to Riviere du Loup by the steamer, one may in certain conditions of the atmosphere, observe a singular mirage among the islands between that ])lace and Kamou- raska, an occurrence which must have been regarded with no small amount of super- stitious awe by the Indians of the earlier days. All the Lower St. Lawrence is full of beauty and abounds in historical reminiscences and traditions. Those who have taste for such things should read the writings of Le.Moinc. Faucher, Casgrain, Tache and Buies, all of which are worthy of perusal. ¥ ( ) R E S T S AND S T REAMS. Taking Riviere du Loup as a centre, the sportsman has a field only limited by his time and inclination to shoot and fish. Nature has been prodigal in her gifts, and though Inilians and their white brothers have made sore havoc among the creatures of the wo(jds, in the past, enough remain to emjjloy the hunter for generations to come. In one respect, however, an unbridled license to kill has had its effect. Once the moose, RiviHRK Of i.orr. i6 king of tlie North American forest, roamed these woods in vast herds. Had they been shot only for tlie put poses of food, or in the \vay of legitimate sport, they would have been plenty at this day. Unsparing hands spread destruction among them for the sake of gain, and drove them to more distant haunts. The caribou, game fit for any sportsman, are still to be found in large numbers. The season for them, in this Province, extends from the first of September to the first of February ; and they are to be found almost anywhere between St. Alexandre and Cainp- bellton, within a short distance of the railway track. In some places this distance would be two, and in others ten miles. Of comse, skill, experience and good guides, are necessary to find them at all times ; but a sportsman who imderstands his business, and who goes to the rigiit locality, need not be surprised if he bring down as many as twenty in a fortnight's hunt. To accomplish this, he must be prepared for his work and be ready to stand some fatigue. From Riviere du Loup he can set out in a variety of directions for grounds which are known to be good, and where caribou are particularly abundant. One of these is in the direction of 'I'emiscouata Lake, 38 miles distant, and over an easy highway. Here is a sportsman's paradise, amid scenery of the most beautiful description, the forest abounding in game and the lakes and rivers teeming with fish. Here one may live tor weeks, and never weary in his absence the busy haimts of men. All the forest to the south of this part of the railway affoiu.- good sport. The sportsman can take his choice of going a long or short distance. The back country of Maine can be easily reached from St. Alexandre, or one may go twenty miles from Riviere du l.oup and find the St. Francis River, and follow it to the St. John. From Elgin Road, or L'islet, the head waters of the Restigouche and Miramichi may be reached. All these are in the midst of hapity hunting grounds. Some of the best caribou hunting is to be had among the Shickshocks Mountains, in Gaspe. This is the land of the caribou. In the depths of the wilderness, amid mountains nearly 4.000 feet high, anil surrounded by scenery of the most wild and rugged character, is an abundance of rare sjjort. This has been one of the resorts of Lord Dunraven, who has, indeed, hunted in all parts of the country, meeting with excellent success. On his last hunt, he started as many as forty-one caribou in three days. Of these he and his |)arty killed fifteen. H. R. H. Prince Arthur during his visit, in 1869, engaged in a successful hunting exjjedition in these forests. I'hey have also been visited by Count Turenne and other eminent sportsmen. Other game may be had fi)r the seeking. Bears simietimes make their appearance when least looked for and often make lively episodes in the sportsman's journey. In August 1879, Hon. W. W. Thomas, of I'ortland. Me., had a narrow escape at one of the Squalook Lakes, not far from the Temiscouata. If he had not tloored the bear, the bear would have floored him, but the gun proved true and a l)rilliant victory was the result. Partridge are very numerous. When a weak or la/y man goes after them he has to take some one wiih him to carry the load home. So plentiful are they near Riviere du Loup, that Win. Fraser. Fsi)., the jiresent Seigneur, shot as many as fifty-four in one day, killing fourteen of thein without moving out of his tracks. To him who has carried a gun mile after mile for a whole day and been i)roud to exhibit one unfortunate bird as his trophy, this may ap|)ear like a tough story. Nevertheless it is true. The man who goes after jiartridges in this vicinity does not have to sneak home by a back road to avoid the chaff of his neighbors for his bad lui:k. He stalks along with pride in his face and a load on his back, anil is only \exed that the spe( tacle is too common to excite wonder. Around the shores, geese brant and ducks of all kinds are found in immen.se flocks »7 in the fall and spring. Isle Verte and Kamouraska are, in i)artii;ular, favorite resorts for this kind of game, and hundreds may l)e shot with ease. Much that has been said in regard to the hunting in the vicinity of Riviere du Loup will apply to the country along the next two hund.cd miles, or until after the boundary of New Brunswick has been passed. Riviere du I.oup has not been singled out as the only place, but simply as a sample of wiiat very many are like as regards their surroundings, and to avoid a reiteration cf the same facts in connection with each place. A similar course is taken in regard to some of the features of the fishing. Tliis is a land of fish, and such fish 1 One may eat them at every meal on his journey through the country. Halibut, salmon, herring and smelt from ihe St. L.awrence, and salmon, tuladi, sea, brook and lake trout from the waters that are tributary to it. Salmon are found in nearly all the rivers, and the majority of the streams are leased by the Government to individuals. It is not diffi('ult, liowever, for a stranger to obtain per- mission to fish for them. 'I'ront are found in all the rivers and lakes and are free to all comers. 'I'he usual size of those in the lakes is from five to si.\ pounds ; the river trout run from three to four jiounds. .Ml the trout of this region are very " gamy." and afford abundant sport. In the lakes is also found the tuladi, which seeips identical with tlie togue of Northern Maine and New Brunswick. Si)ecimens have been caught weighing as much as forty jiounds each, or as large as a good sized salmon The average size in Temiscouata Lake is 27 pounds It has indeed been confounded with the lake salmon of Switzerland, and with others of the salmon family of Kurope, but it appears to be identical with no one of them. It is usually very fat, and very reserved — not to say lazy. It lurks and lies in the deep waters of the deep lakes, as if given to contemplation rather than the gratification of api)etite. For all that, it is a voracious creature and does ai)i)roach the surface in the cool of the morning and evening. It does not rise to the fly, but may be taken by trolling. It is good eating, though less delicate than either trout or salmon. Nearlv all lakes are free to fishers, for all kinds of fish. m ^:>t^^ y^^'^%Ksk-^-' '"■ CANOE AND PADDLE. The Intercolonial has one feature which few, if any, railways possess to the same extent. For a distance of several lunidred miles it is intersected by navigable, but not dangerous, rivers. By these natural highways one may pursue his journey far into the interior, make a short por- tage from the head-waters of one to those of another and descend the latter to the line of railway. .\ glance at the nia]) will show what ample opportmiities there are for this kind of recreation. Leaving the railwa\' and ascending one river, coining down another and u]i another, spending days among the lakes, fishing, shooting, enjoying life to the ut- most, one is as much in the wilderness as if thousaiuls of miles away. Vet all tiiis time he knows that, if necessary, a i'ljw hours will bring him to the railway, the mail and the telegrajjh — to communi- cation with the busy wc.rld. He may CArsAi'SCAi,. leave the railwav on the shores of the ■ ■<*"■•■■<: li i8 St. Lawrence and make a canoe voyage to the Baie country, two Protestant churches as well. Cacouna is, in all respects, a well eijuipiJed wateiing-place. '9 LES HABITANTS DK LA N () U V E L I, P:- F R A NC E. The railway and telegraph of the nineteenth century run through a country in which hundreds of people are to all intents and purposes in the seventeenth century. Not to their disrespect be this said, hut as showing the tenacity witii which they adhere to their language, manners and customs. 'I'he ("anadian habitants are probably as conservative as any people on earth. Where innovations are thrust upon them by the march of pro- gress they adapt themselves to the changes ; but where they are left to themselves they are happy in the enjoyment of the life their fathers led, and are vexed by no restless ambition to be other than they have been. Their wants are simple and easily supplied ; they live peaceful and moral lives ; and they are filled with an abiding love for their lan- guage and a profound veneration for their religion. By nature light-hearted and vivacious, they are Optimists without knowing it. Inured to the climate, they find enjoyment in its most rigorous seasons. French in all their thoughts, words and deeds, ihey are yet loyal to the British crown, and contented under British rule. I'heir ancient laws are secured to them by solemn comijact ; and their language and religion are landmarks which will never be moved. In places where the P'nglish have established themselves, some of the habitants understand the English language, but none of them adopt it as their own. 'The mingling of races has a contrary effect, and the English tongue must yield to the French. 'There are many Englishmen in (Quebec whose children do not understand a word of their father's native tongue ; but there are no Frenchmen whose children are ignorant of the language of France. .^ traveller is very favorably impressed by the manners of the country people. Many of them are in very humble circumstances ; books are to them a sealed mystery ; and their circumstances of life are not such as are supposed to conduce to refinement of manners. Vet everywhere the stranger meets with courtesy, and finds the evidence of true politeness — not mere ceremonial politeness, but that which is dictated by sincerity and aims at the accomplishment of a stranger's wishes as a matter of duty. Where one does not understand the language they will take great trouble to comprehend his mean- ing ; where he can speak even indifferent French, he can make himself perfectly at home. The railway runs through tiie land of the French Canadian, until after the Metajje- diac is reached. Everywhere is seen the familiar church ; no hamlet is too poor to have a good one. .Should you seek the cure, you will find him a man whom it is a pleasure to meet — well informed, affable and full of the praises of the '" d in which he lives. 'The habitants have a sincere regard for their spiritual advisers, who are truly pastors to their people, and whose lives are devoted to the well-being of their flocks. They follow in the siejis of the pioneer missionaries, whose heroic devotion in the past must forever be honored by men of every creed Leaving Cacoimn, the next place of interest reached is 'Trois Pistoles, and it has a charm for the traveller at whatever hour of the day or night he niay arrive. This consists in the Railway Dining- Room, which is a model of neatness and has a table fit to charm tile most fastidious taste. One does not require to be very lunigry to enjoy the viands of this place, which need not fear comparison with any in the country. 'Trois Pistoles village is prettily situated, and there is good lake and river fi.shing in the vicinity. Lake St. Simon, a beautiful sheet of water, deserves particular mention. 'The name of the village is derived either from three pistoles being originally given for a piece of land in the vicinity, or from a man losing that sum, or from a trade with the Indians in which that sum changed hands 'The antiquarian can choose whichever of the three traditions seems most reasonable. There is no good authority for any one of them. iMghteen miles more of a railway ride brings one to to BIC ! BEAUTIFUL BIC ! Vou are in the air above it when you first catch sight of the village, with its harbor and islets, lii order to get through this part of the country, the railway had to be carried around Bic mountain, and is in one place 150 feet above the post road. The mountain rises over the railway again for a height of 250 feet more. A vast amount of labor was expended on this part of the road. In some places the rock was blasted to a dei>th of eighty feet to allow space for the track to hug the mountain side. From this height a splendid view of the St. [.awrence is obtained, the estuary being about twenty- five miles wide and rapidly widening below until it merges with the world of waters. Was it not from the heights of Bic that anxious eyes watched the fleet of Wolfe, sailing quietly up the .St. Lawrence on a fair day in June, long years ago ? Nearer it came, and oh. jciy : the vessels carried the flag of France. The long expected succour had come from beyond the sea. Every heart was filled with joy ; swift messengers started to carry the glad news to ()uebcc. Suddenly the flag of the leading vessel was run down ; a moment later and the flag of England streamed out to the breeze. It was the fleet of the enemy with thousands of soldiers destined to conquer Canada 1 Among the watchers on shore was a priest whose nerves had been strung to the utmost tension with joy. \\hen the dread truth so suddenly burst upon him, Nature could bear no more, and he fell to the earth — dead 1 Descending the mountain, Bic village is soon reached. It is one of the finest natural watering-places on the whole St. Lawrence. The mountains are around it, and it nestles at their feet amid the beauties of the scenery. There is more here than a mere stretch of shores. There is a harbor in which an ocean steamer may ride, a haven wherein vessels may hide from the wrath of the storm-king. Romantic isles lie amid the waters, and crags of rugged beauty rear their heads around the shores. Pleasant beaches tempt the bather ; placid waters invite the boatman ; and beauty everywhere summons the idler from his resting place to drive or ramble in its midst. The harbor is simply charming to one who first beholds it, and " time but the impression deeper makes." It never becomes monotonous : one never wearies of gazing upon it. Long ago the French recognized the value of Bic and its harbor. Here they pro- posed to erect fortifications and maintain a naval station. England, too, found its value as a jjort when her men and munitions of war were landed here from the Persia, at the time of the Trent trouble. Since the completion of the railway, Bic has become better known than before. Lovers of beauty have located summer residences in the village, and year by year enjoy the summer breezes. Fishing is had in abundance ; and if there were no fish, the streams winding their way among thehills, through all kinds of pictu- resque dells, would well rei^ay full many a toilsome tramp. No account of Bic would be complete without some reference to the story of L Ilet au Massacre, one of the isles near the village. The tale is an old one. Donnacona told it to Jacques Cartier on his second visit to Canada, and it has been told in a great variety of forms ever since. The tradition is that a band of Micmacs, consisting of about two hundred men, women and children, heard of the approach of a party of hostile Iroquti!^ and fled for concealment to the large cave on this island. The Iroquois discovered the place of retreat and laid siege to it, but met with an obstinate resistance. Finding them- selves unable to dislodge the Micmacs by ordinary means, they advanced behind shields of boughs, carrying torches of bark, and by igniting all the dry wood in the vicinity compelled the enemy to come forth. A general massacre took place, in which all the Micmacs, save five, were slaughtered and their bones left to bleach upon the island. 'ii% rA= i :iii h § 21 Here the narrative usually ends, but Mr. Tache, in his Trois Ligendes, gives a sequel which, whether historically correct or not, gives a better dramatic effect and is more satis- factory to lovers of fair-play. He alleges that all who wore in the cave were killed, and that the five said to have escaped were despatched, at the first alarm, a part to demand assistance from the friendly Malicites at Madawaska, and the others to act as scouts. Twenty-five Malicite warriors responded to the summons, but too late to prevent the massacre. They then, aided by their five allies, secretly followed the track of the Iro- quois, and unseen themselves, dealt death among the party as it proceeded. I'he scouts had previously removed the canoes and provisions which the Iroquois had left in the woods, and so they marched, dying by the hand of an unseen foe and threatened with famine ere they could reach their own country. At length they reached the open woods, near Trois Pistoles Ri'.cr, feeble and discouraged. The band had shrunk to twenty-seven men. Finding traces of moose they began a hunt, and were led into an ambush by the foe, who burst upon them and killed all but .six. These were made prisoners ; one was tortured l)y the allies in the presence of the other five. The latter were then divided, and the Malicites carried their three to Madawaska. The Micmacs returned to Bic with their two, and tying them with their faces to the island, put them to death with their most ingenious torments. They then quitted Bic forever. Tradition has peopled the neighborhood with the ghosts of the slaughtered Micmacs, now dancing on the waters, now moaning among the crevices of the rocks, shrieking at times as with the agony of souls in ])ain. Hattee Bay is another delightful spot, not far from Bic. The scenery, though not so impressive as that of the latter place, is very attractive. One of the features is a natural terrace, and the fiicilities for all kinds of exercise and recreation are abundant. A number oT English families reside at this place, and it has many admiring visitors during the summer season. R I M O U .S K I . Every one has heard of Rimouski, in connection with the arrival and departure of the ocean steamers. Here they call on their way out to receive mails and passengers, and on their way in to land them. .\ branch of the railway runs down to the landing ]ilace, at the end of a pier nearly a mile long, and a steamer is employed as a tender for the service. Lively work it is, sometimes, to get on board the outward-bound steamer when the weather is a little rough. Everyone gets aboard safely, however, and rather likes his experience alter it is over. Rimouski is no common-place village, but a town of something under 2,000 inhabi- tants, It is tile shire-town of the county and the seat of the Bishop of the Diocese. Lawyers and clergymen are alike numerous ; business of all kinds is carried on briskly ; and there is a general appearance of thrift on every hand. Some of the buildings make a fine appearance, notably those devoted to religious uses. The Cathedral is a noble structure, while ilie Bisho|)'s palace, convents, etc., are of a character in keeping with it. The .Seminary, a tine striicuire, was, with much of value contained in it, destroyed by fire in A])ril, iSSi. 'I'he loss, about $100,000, was largely made up by friends of education in various parts f)f the province, and another fine building now serves the purposes of the structure which was laid in ruins. The town, the full name of which is St. Germain de Rimouski, is thoroughly French in its characteristics, and though English is under- stood at the hotels, there are plenty of places of business where it is not. A stranger will have no trouble in getting along, however, and will find the place and the people equally agreeable. Fishing can be indulged in with good success. The Rimouski River >r 22 :;!i is one of the noted salmon streams, and has, of course, any quantity of trout. The scenery is fine all along the banks, up to the lake from which it flows, close to the New Brunswick boundary. From this lake only a short portage is necessary to reach the Quatawamkedgwick, which empties into the Reftigouche. In (he woods back of Rimouski, sport of all kinds awaits the liunter. Caribou are abundant and both gun and rod can be kept busy for weeks during the proper seasons. Speaking of fishing, a pro- minent gentleman informed the writer that at Seven l,akes. about 25 miles from the town, three men caught forty thousand trout in three days. As a man can fish, at most, for about fifteen hours a day, this made the remarkable average of nearly a thousand an hour. On an ojjinion being expressed that the catch was an unusually good one, and the best rod-fishing on record, the gentleman took a second thought and remembered that it was forty dozen, instead of thousands ; this, though less marvelous, was not a bad exhibit either, and spoke well for the fishing of Rimouski. There are about fifty lakes, large and small, in the county. Salt-water fishing, boating and bathing may be had on the St. Lawrence, the shore being protected from the outside swells by the island of St. Bar- nabe, which lies opposite the town. This island has borne its name since early in the seventeenth centuiy. It is about two miles long, contains a small lake, is well wooded, and is a favorite resort for picnic patties. It has its story, and Monseigneur Guay has preserved its details in his Cliroiiiqitc ile Rimouski. An outline, with additions gleaned from other sources, will suffice here. The foir land of Old l*' ranee held no li£.irls more loving than were those of Toussaint Cartier and his betrothed Louise when the new year of 1723 dawned. Just turned of manhood, handsome in person, versed in knowledge of books and agreeable in manners, he was the envy of the lads of his native \illage. He had long known the beautiful Louise, and they had learned to love each other with a love surpassing the power of words to tell. She was the daugiiter of a ricli fatiier, wlio had pledged her at an early age to the profiigate son of his rich neighbor. Toussaint was poor, and his ])overty became a crime in the sight of the lucre-loving old father of the love-lisi)ing Louise. The lovers had three courses ojien to tiieni to overcome the diffi<'ulty. ( )ne was to break llie engagement and return ail letters, rings and ]>hotographs. This would have been dutiful on tiie part of Louise, but she failed to see it in that light. Another course was to engage the services of some i)opular assassin and bribe a coroner's jury to bring in a verdict of death by the visitation of Providence: and the third was to get secretly married and go west. The latter course was adopted, and the hap|)y coujjIc embarked for (Quebec . All went well. They reached the St. Lawrence and lay becalmed off Rimouski. The day was line and yoinig Cartier took a boat to visit lie St. Marnabe. While he was ashore a fearful tempest arose, and the vessel and all on board were engulfed before his eyes. Tiie body of Louise was soon after waslnd ashore on the island, where Toussaint buried it and made a solemn vow to live on the lonely isle tor the remainder of his days. This vow he faithfully observed, living a life of deep religious devotion, year after year, until his locks were silvered with age. .\il who knew him revered him. even the birds loved him and came to 'iy:ii(\ (uit of his hand; but his heart was broken, and he watt hed year by year pass by. counting each as a stej) nearer to his reunion with the one of wiiose smile through life he had been so rudely dejjrived. Forty odd seasons passed, and at length, one January mornii.g, he was found lying dead on the floor of his hiunble .d)ode. I'he lovers were united at last. His remains were buried within the old < hurch of Rimouski, and to this day his name is iionored as that of an holy man. There are other versions of the story. Some of them omit all reference to the 23 love affair, and make it appear that he arrived on foot and came by the way of Meta- pediac. The foregoing is the prettiest, however, and ought to be true, whether it is or not. Six miles below Rimouski is Father Point, so well known as a telegraph and signal station in connection with ocean steamers, and to it there is a charming drive along the shore. Four miles above the town is the village of Sacre Coeur, where there is a beautiful and well sheltered beach and admirable o])portunities for boating and sea bathing. Soon after leaving Rimouski the St. Lawrence is lost sight of, and the road makes its way toward the Metapedia Valley. Ste-Flavie, eighteen miles from Rimouski, is a place of some imjmrtance, and is the terminus of the well known highway, the Kempt Road, built at a heavy expense and so long used for a mail route between the upper and lower provinces. Here we begin lo take leave of the French pure and simple, and enter a country where F:nglish is spoken to a greater extent. In the midst of the woods is Little Metis Station, not a place over which one could grow enthusiastic, but nevertheless leading by a road of about six miles to the beautiful watering place of LITTLE METIS. Three score and ten years ago the Seigneur of Metis was a Mr. McNider, whose name has such a genuine Caledonian ring that no one will imagine that he was a Frenchman. Warmly attached to the i)lace, and fully impressed with its beauties, there was yet one defect which grieved his heart. Nature had neither locited Metis in Scotland nor sent the Scotch to Metis. This want he determined to luipply, and the result was the arrival of several hundred men, women and children from Old Scotia, 'i'hese were located in several parts of the Seigneury, and aided by Mr. McNider until their farms became adeepiate lo supjjiy their wants. Since then they have prospered, and Metis is a nourishing farming district. What is more to the purpose of the tourist, it is one of the most pleasant places on the shore for those who are seeking to enjoy the summer months. Numbers have already found out its beauties, but there is room for many more. Little Metis is situated on the shore of the St. Lawrence, at a point where the estuary begins to widen out so that the opposite shore is a faint line in the distance and much of the horizon is as level as upon tiie ocean. This gives the place more of the air of a sea-side resort than many less favored watering places, and the salt waves rolling in upon the sandy beach confirm the impression. This beach is about four miles long, hard, smooth and safe for bathers. On some parts of it the surf beats with a sullen roar : yet numerous coves, sheltered from the swell, afford every security, as well as absolute jjrivacy. to the bather. Boats, of all sizes, from a skiff to a schooner, are available to the visitor, and if one desires to run across to the other shore he will find safe and swift vessels crossing every day. If a i)arty desire to have a good time and feel free and indeiientleiu. they can charter a small schooner for about $3 a day, sec ure a good sailing master, lay in a supply of i)rovisions, and go where they please. The St. Lawrence is between thirty and forty miles wide in this i)art, so there is plenty of room for excursionists at all times. ( )n shore, in addition to the bathing, the attractions are abundant. First of all there are ^ood hotels, and the \ isitor has his choice of five of them. 15oard is very reasonalile. averaging about a dollar a day. If one i)refer a private boarding house, he can find good accommodation (or about five dollars a week. Hesides this, nearly every farmer has a spare house which can be hired fi)r about $60 for the season, in- 24 eluding water and fuel. Where families want to have a good time, free from restraint, the latter course is the best one. The weirs furnish a plentiful supply of fresh fish, while other provisions, including berries of all kinds and dairy products are to be had in abundance. A number of residents of Montreal and other places have villas here. .-Vmong them are Principal Dawson, j j fjffii| ^p-r <'f McGill College, Profs. Murray and Dorev, Dr. Ircnholm, Mr. ,een to be apprei iated. Both Orand and Petit Metis rivers have waterfalls, situated amid most em banting s( enes of the forest. Last year between Soo and i.ooo tourists visited Little Metis during the season. Enough to show that the place has attractions. l)ut not so many as to overcrowd, or to impose the restraint incident to older and more lashionaltle resorts. Eurthei along the shore is Matane, chiefly renowned for the abundance of salmon and trout in the river. This also is in favor as a summer resort, and, like Metis, is a |)ort of call for the steamers between (Quebec and the tiiilf Ports. Leaving Metis, we leave the St. Lawrence behind us and jiuirney south to the Metapediac Valley. I'assing Tartague. the railway which has ke])! out of the way of •m restraint, f fresh fish, re to be had villas here, ofs. Murray s. Redpath. !s here and On Sunday icline to the 1 or Metho- I attend pla- lip of those ns, and du- ion Episco- s also held, ^letis River launtof the ;h is found i numbers. )und wher- i a lake or best fish- tis Lakes, )f which is niles from he village. is a chain containing e trout, parativeiy y in the -fowl are )ods. he shore ful vales vagons to s to the s with a is rivers season, vd, or to " salmon tis, is a I to the wav of 25 the mountain ranges by hugging the shore for two hundred miles, makes a bold push and crosses the hills at Malfait Lake. Here the tourist is nearly 750 feet above the sea, higher than he has been since he left Quebec, and higher than he can be on any other part of the line. Down the grade the cars go, until again on the level in the midst of a beautiful valley, where the hills rise on each side si.v and eight hundred feet for a distance of many miles. The French villages are no longer seen ; the French names are no longer heard. In the ])lace of the latter comes the names bestowed by the Indians who once peopled the land. Some of these names are musical, after you get used to them. No doubt they were musical to Algoncjuin ears when uttered by Algonquin tongues : but the true p'ronunciation of many of them is lost, and as the Indians had no written language there is no rule as to how they should l)e spelled. Some of them arc believed to have had poetical meanings, but there is a good deal more fancy than fact in many of the interpretations. It is just as well, however, to attach some poetry to them in the Metapediac, for all the surroundings are of a poet- ical nature. It is supjjosed to have been somewhere in this vicinity that the first and last of the .Vboriginal Spring Poets ventured to warble, and was put to djath, with horrible tortures, as a warning to Spring Poets for all time to come. His effusion is believed to have consisted of a hundred and sixteen stanzas. He desired his Chiefs opinion as to their fitness for publication. The cfiticism was j)romptly given, for when the poet had reached the end of the fifth stanza he was gagged, tried and condemned to the stake. Tradition says the verses were : ODK lO SPKINC;. llail, Metapediac! Upon thy shore The Souriquois may sweet seclusion seek ; Ca(iara(|ui distracts his thoujjhls no more, Nor seeks he gold from Souleamuagadeek. Mail Kestigouche and calm Caiisapscal, Tartague, 'l'ol)egote and Sayabec, Anniiii, Wagansis, l'eske-.\mmik — all The scenes wiiich Nature doth with glory deck. At .•\ssanuti|naghan and at L'psalnuitch I'he busy beaver builds his little dam ; His sisters, cousins and liis aunts grow rich At I'atapediac and Obstchiiuasquam. I've wandered by the (Juatawamkedgwick, Tlie Mailawaska and the famed l.oostook, 'Hie Temiscouata, Kamouraska, l!ic ; I've climbed the hill of Wollodadamook. .Vnd everywhere do thoughts of spring arise, Till this .\lgoni|uin doth an ode pioduce. llail, brother Mareschites and -Vbnakies ! llail. balmy mouth of .\muss\vikizoos I (lachepeanil Kigicapigiok — It was at this stage that the jioet was gagged. Like unto the swan, his song and his death fi)llowe(l each other. It was the first and last ajjjjearance of the Spring Poet among the Red men. a6 :i J MKTAPKDIAC LAKE AND VALLEY. Beyond Sayal)ec lies the beautiful sheet of water called Lake Metapediac. It is the noblest sheet of inland water seen along the route. All lakes have a beauty which appeals to the imaginative minds, but this enshrined among the mountains must im- pressthe most prosaic nature. About sixteen miles in length, and stretching out in parts to the width of five miles, its ample area gives it a dignity with which to wear its beauty. Embosomed on its tranquil waters lie isles rich in verdure, while shores luxuriant with Nature's bounty make a fitting frame to so fair a picture. He who has told us of Loch Katrine could sing of this lake that she : " In all her length far winding lay, With |)iomontory, creek and bay. And Islands that, empurpled bright, Floated amid the lovelier light ; And mountains that like giants stand To sentinel enchanted land." Upon this lake the canoe may glide amid scenes which can wake the artist's soul to ecstacy. Here, too, may the sportsman never ply his craft in vain. These clear waters are the home of the salmon, and kings among the fishes await the angler's pleasure. The trout and the salmon are of a size and flavor which will charm alike the eye and the taste. They are simply majestic — None know them but to love them, Nor name them but to praise. The outlet of the lake is the famed Metapediac River. It is usually spelled with- out the final "c." and some use an "a" instead of the first "e." It is a matter of taste, but it is highly probaljle no one of the three is like the original Indian word. Cascapediac, for instance, is a corruption of Kigica])igiak, and jjrobably the original of Metapediac is something even worse. It is just as well not to be too particular, for the corruj)tion of Indian words is generally an improvement so far as relates to the case of ])ronunciation by the tongues of white men. The name is said to denote Musical Waters, and the title is well deserved. Through the green valley it winds in graceful curves, singing the music of the waters as it runs. It has 222 rapids, great and small, now swift and deej), now gently rip])ling over beds of shining gravel and golden sand. Here and there are the deeper pools in which lurk salmon of astounding size, for this is one of the salmon rivers of which every fisherman has heard. For mile after mile the traveller watches the ccnirse of the river, so strangely i)ent in by the mountains on either hand, rising from six to eight hundred feet in every shape which mountains can assume. .Some are almost perfect cones ; others rise swiftly into jjreci- I)ices ; and others have sui h geiilie slopes that one feels that he would like to stroll leisurely upward to the summit. In some |)laces. liie river, the highway, and the rail- way, crowd each f)ther for a passage between the foot of the hills, so narrow is the valley. All kinils of foliage, ami all shades of Nature's colors are upon the hillsides ; and in the autumn when the grand transformation of hues takes place the effect is magnificent beyond descrii)tion. .\loug the river, grassy banks here and there await the angler's feet to \)rv^s tiie turf in j.)yful haste, as the lordly fish leap from the waters to seize his hook, lieauty is everywhere ; here all the charms of retirement can be found, amid a Northern paradise. Switzerland lives in miniature amid the mountains ; England and Scotland are around tiie lakes, streams and springy heather. Everyone "^^-A |)ediac. It is beauty which ins must im- tching out in ch to wear its while shores He who has artist's soul These clear the angler's charm alike spelled with- a matter of ndian word. le original of articular, for elates to the 1 to denote it winds in apids, great gravel and " astounding i. For mile It in by the hajje which »■ into preci- ike to stroll nd the rail- rrow is the e hillsides ; he effect is there awaii the waters ;nt can be nountains ; Kveryone fli i 27 |)raises Mctapediac ; many grow gushing ovt-r its l)eauties ; no one presumes to suggest that it could have been l)etter than it is. For year after year this glorious country was far removed from the path of travel- lers, save those whose necessities obliged them lo traverse the military road to Ste- Klavie. The building of the railway has opened it to the world, and thousands are now familiar with it where hundreds had heard of it in other years. It is a country which has attractions for all. Those who seek the beautiful in Nature may here find it, while those who are disciples of Nimrod or Walton may here find the days only too short, and the weeks passing away all too swiftly. Mil, I, sTKi:.\M Mi;T.\ri:i)i.\. THK SHOOTING AND FISHING. Vou can stand on the railway track and shoot jiartridges in this valley, and by going two miles into the forest you can shoot caribou. As was previously mentioned, vast (piantities of moose once roamed here, and some are still left ; but the caribou must content the hunter as regards large game, unless, indeed he have the luck lo meet a bear or two. By climbing the mountains, plenty of game of all kinds is found in the forests, which cover a large area of coun- try. The Me- tajiediac has several other salmon rivers rinwing into it. The C'ausa])scal is one of these, and it was where the streams join ihiii the Princess Louise landed the forty ijoiind salmon. Royal fish are these salmon, and fit sport for royalty. Take any part of the Metai)ediac in the latter i)art of June or the early jiart of July. when, as a rule, the fish are the most abundant, and there is fishing enough to keep a good sized crcnvd i)retty busy. The Americans have found out the advantages of the country, and a club of wealthy New-V'orkers now own a club-house and hold a fishing lease on the Metajiediac. 'I'heir house is at the junction of the River with the Restigouche, ihe jilace formerly so well known as " Dan F'laser's." For early salmon fishing, the Metai)ediac and its tributaries have an especially ,uood name, but at no time during the season is the fishing poor. The Mctapediac trout are as large as some fish which i)ass fiir salmon in other countries, and one of them is a "S(|uare meal " of itself. Where fi)rty and fifty jjound salmon exist, seven |iound trout are only in jjroportion as they should be. .\t Assametfjuaghan (a place iiiorc beautiful than it^ name), at M( Kinnon lirook. and at Mill Stream, will be found particularly good trout fishing. .\ part\ of two men has gone out of an afternoon and ivniaiiied until noon the next day. securing nearly 250 jxiunds of trout, each trout averaging fi)iir |)ounds in weight, but many running as high as seven pounds. Mr. Fraser tormerlv kejit an excellent hotel at .Mctapediac Station, where the house of the '• Restigouclie Salmon Cliil)" siands. .After disjiosing of the latter place, he erected a new hotel, about one mile further down the river, and close to the line of 28 railwav, I'll IS ,||SI) lui> 1 icfii disposed of Id a fisliing ( lull 111 Mr. Krascr is still in demand liv strangers sci'king tor ••iioinis. 'i'lie last (if the .ML-taia'diar is sec iMi at tiu- village \vlii( li hears the name of the 1 tlu river, at the junction with the Kestigouche. It is a phue of singular huiuty. and the JVC lingers lovingly (ui the beautiful panorama as it jiasses I rom the view and the train rushes onward to liie boundary of New Mrunswiik. Here we talih sight of the River kestigouche. spanned by a beautiful railway bridge, over a thousand feet in length. A lew ni iles bevond. the train iiasses through the tunnel on Morrisse\ v's Rock, on the side of Prospect .Mountain. Thi^ IS the on Iv tunnel through which trains pass, though, hidden from the eve of the ordin.irv traveller, are a number of others by which rivers have been diverted in the work of construction. There are. however, miles of snow- sheds, which answer the purposes of tunnels, so far as linked darkness, long drawn out. is concerned At the Head of the iide a bright picture meets the eye.' The river is thickly dotted with low-lying islands, rich with meadow land, their hues of green contrasting tinelv with th jf brigl e silver surface of the river. In truth, this part of ihe road is a suci'ession are shown some of Nature's fairest scenes. lit iiictures — a iianorama. wherein CAM r 1!K 1. 1, TO N . We are in New Iirunswick. and juetty near what might have answered for a jump- ing off place in old times. Nowadays the residents ii'pel such an insinuation, and point with pride to the present prosperity of the village (but don't call it that '.), and to its great possibilities in the future. \\ ell. t'ampbellton has great possii)ilities, and it has jirobabilities as well. It is no longer gay or sad as lumber is high or low. and it lives in airy independence of the hoisting and shutting-down of the saw-mills. It is imjiroving every year. By and by it wil the most popular resorts on the railwaw very much improved, and will he one of \V lat are its possibili ties? In the first phu e, its situation is a convenient as well as a very charniing (Jiie. Comenienl because it is (entr:il ui>on the line of the Inter- colonial — neither too f.ir south for llie peojile who are abo\e it. nor too tar north for those who are below. It is 314 miles from (^)uebec, 372 from Halil'ax, and 274 from .St. |ohn. It is convenient, tt ause it lies in the midst of one the finest regions for siKirt on the continent. The Kestigouche and Metajtediac . with their tributaries, afford only a part of the splendid fishing to be had. while the Kind to the west an d the north (ontains all manner of game to entice the sportsman to its forests Hesidt ('ami)belllon looks into the fair and famous liaie des Chaleurs. which is of itself worth coining from afar to sail u|)oii ; and. finally, it is comenieiit as a cool, hut not cold, watering place with ever\' facility for salt-water bathing, salt water tishing and a gooil time generally. 'Ihe situation is beautiful, because ( 'ampbellton lies at a jioint where a broad and beautiful river unites with the waters of a bav which has no rival in Canada, lieautiful. bec.iuse th heavenward with a grandeur not to be descriheil. whi with a harmon\ which all mav admire, hut whi< !i can he aiipret e mountains rise near and lar. their ccuies jioiiiling trying shades are blended "^'es. Cam[)l)elltou is well situated, and wluai it has a .St. |,a\ iated cmly by the artist, eiv. •■ Hall, like that at Cacouna. it w a pi ;u e w Inch no oiv. an afford to 111 ( )ne of the finest views to he had is tVom the t( if the Suuar Loaf, a mountain about a mile and a half above the town. Do not he alarmed when the people tell vou that the summit is nearly a thousand feet high. The 1 limb is not so much as that. highest measurement it ever got was In the rellec tin; ( in The le of .Sir Howard Douglas, 89 I 111 ihc- the train Liver A side |>iigh. [ivers [now- Irawn ickly 30 M. 1'.. Mr. I'.llis. had iin|>ri'(i.(loiui.• virtue lia iiis favorite resort, (irand Casc-apedia ever seen. aiK if 1 lis exalted position, alsn made ih ( !as( ai is a fivorite resort of the \iie- Regal party, the (lovernor (ieneral having a hsiiing lodge on that river. Besides these jilaces. the sjiortsm; m IS lie ar the Metapediat Valley, and has the Resligotuhe and all its many tributaries to afford him rec reation. S H (»(»1 I N (1. A time-honored poem, the author of w liieh is unknown, useil to say : " I 111, Wfie )im ever in Restigouche, To see the Injun slioot-um goose," and the words ajtply as well to-ilay as they did tifty years ago. The Indians are found at Cross I'oiiu mission, opposite Camphv-'llton. one of the oldest missions in ("anaeen only forty. 'I'hi Indians make exi ellent guides. The geese mentioned by the |ioet hover around the shores in tlocks of thousands. So tlo the duck and brant. 'I'hey are in their glory in the fall and spring, but where there is ojien water some of them fight it out on that line all winter. Partridge and snijie shooting is also a success in this locality. Plover are found at times, but a strict regard for truth compels the admission that a man who goes after them and wants nothing else may be disappniinted. Caribou are abundant. 'I'he woods are full of them tiguralively speaking. A year or two ago one was caught at the freight house at (.'am|ibelltf)n. anil Mr. Thomas Clare, of \ouvelle, also ajiprehended one which he found loafing around his barn-yard. Moose are also to be had by going back into the woods, while a jileasing variety is gi\en by the occasional appearance of a bear or loup-cervier.' ( )ne of the best |)laces for moose is between Paiape(lia( and I'rai y Jirook. i''red Weirs gets three or four of these kingly creatures at the mouth of the former stream as regularly as the winter comes. A remarkable exploit was that ot" William .Murray, of Camiibellton. who went up the Nouvelle river and shot four moose in one day. Hears are abundant on the North-west Upsahpiitch, where they resort in >earcli of the tempting blueberry. Another wonderful feat was that of William Harjier. in killing fourteen black duck at one shot, on the Little Muni river. in K R K s )■ ! c, re n k . Should one wish to sisii an ideal wilriernos. let him asceiul this great river to its source, some two hundred miles away. 'I'he Restigouche is jiart of the northern boundary of .New Jkiinswick, and if it were straight would reaih (luite across the Province. .Nature, however, is not jiartial to >traight lines, and so the Restigouche makes some wild bends, at all kinds of angles, from its source to its mouth. It has been recorded by xime one. and believed by a great many, that the meaning of Restigouche is "river that divides like a hand." The latter, however, is believed to be the meaning of I'psahpiitch, and Restigouche means, according to the mission chronicles, "River of the Long War." Some contend that it signifies " Broad River." .Some of the .\biiakis used to call this region I'apechigu- iiai h. the i)lac e of spring aniusenieiits which had no reference to sjiringtraps. but may possibly have borne upon ilie unlimited chances for the shooting of wild geese and k several |l he liad [y virtue (" apedia fisliing has the 32 ducks. lie its name what it may. it is a nol)lf river and is good for an unlimited amount of fishing and hunting. Its head waters lie near Metis I-ake in one direction and Temiscouata in another, and for much of its length it flows through the dense wilderness rarely trodden by the foot of man. The country drained by it and its tribu- taries is a land of mountains and valleys — the former rising grandly two thousand feet towards the clouds : the latter having forests, in which solitude and silence reign. In these regions there are lakes where the beaver has no r le to molest nor make it afraid; there are valleys whose rocks have never echoed the report of a gun ; there are miles ujjon miles which have never been explored, and where the creatures of the forest roam as freely as they did a hundred years ago. One can retire into the heart of New Brunswick and reach rivers which lead to all points, such as the Tobiijue and St. John. Nepisiguit, Miramichi and others of lesser note, as well as rivers which run to the St. Lawrence. Ascending the Restigouche, the first object of interest is Point Kourdo, where once stood the French village of Petit Rochclle, destroyed by C."a])tain Byron in 1760. Four French vessels of war had taken shelter in the river and were followed by Byron's fleet and destroyed. The inhabitants of the village fled to the woods, their houses were laid in ruins and the fortifications destroyed. Many relics of the engagement have been fi)und and preserved, and a few years ago the hulls of some of the sunken vessels could be seen at low water. Some six or seven miles after passing the mouth of the Meta])ediac, the l'i)sal- quitch is reached, being the first tributary on the New Brunswick side. By ascending this the head waters of the Ne])isiguit and Tobique are reached. About 29 miles furtl-.';r is the Patapediac. by which the Metis and other rivers may be found ; then comes the Quatawamkedgwick, some 21 miles further, leading to the head-waters of the Rimouski. By following the Restigouche into the Wagansis. a portage of about three miles will bring one to Clrand River, a tributary of the St. John. The Temiscouata and Squatook Lakes may also be reached — indeed, the by-paths in the wilderness are innumera' le, for streams run in all directions. All of any si/e are safe fi)r canoe navigation, and all abound with the best of fish. So safe is the navigation, that even ladies, with jiroper escort, have ascended the St. John, crossed the narrow ridge of land and de.scended the Restigouche. They, of cour.se, did not explore the wild country to be found by ascend- ing the branches of the latter river, the land of the hunter and his game. Returning to Campbellton, the traveller will find fair hotels and cheap living. For those merely ])assing through, an excellent Dining-Room will be found at the station. This Dining-Room is favourably known among travellers for the good and substantial meals supplied and especially for delicious fresh fish newly caught. I)Ai,H()LSI K. One of the fairest spots on tlie line of the Intercolonial is fi)und at the town of Dalhousie. L\en when this place was not connected with the railroad its beauiv attracted large numbers of visitors, and now that it is so easy of access it bids fair to l)e one of the most popular of summer resorts. Its location at the mouth of the Restigouche wliere the glorious Bale des Chaleurs begins, would in any event make the site one of muisual beauty; but nature has done much fi)r Dalhousie in giving it hills and heights whi(h command a prospect of sea and land far as the eye can rea( h. All varieties of scenery may here be fi)und, from the gentiv murmuring groves to the rugged rocks of most fantastic fi)rni which in places skirt the shore. The harbor is a most e\( client one fiir all purposes. It i> perle( lly safe for all kinds of boating and large enough to 33 afford an al)iindance of recreation. Beyond it are the broad River Restigoiiche and the l)road Baie des Chaleurs. Fine beaches and water of moderate temperatnre tempt the bather. The sheltered position of the place gives it a freedom from raw winds, and fog, that terror of so many tourists is never known around this shore. It is not only a spot where the strong and healthy may enjoy themselves, but it is one where the weak may become strong, and the invalid take a new lease of life. Dalhousie, too, surjiasses many other attractive sjiots in having a really first-class hotel— the Inch Arran House- built on a most desirable site close to the waters of the harbor. Every convenience incident to modern hotel life may be found at this place, and the most delicate and fastidious need not fear to surrender the comforts of home for a sojourn here during the summer season. Dalhousie is convenient if you wish to visit the fiimous land of Ciaspe, for from it a steamer runs twice a week and f a summer day, with a gentle bree/.e ri])|)ling the smootii surface of the water, the yachtsman feels that he has at last t'ound the object of his dream. There is no finer yachting bay on the North .\th'ntic c >ast. I'he waters of the bay abound with net h>li and there is, also, a fine chance for line fishing. Catching m;ickerel is a favorite recreation, the season lasting from early in July until the last of .September, or later. ihe fishers go out in small boats and use lines from ten to twentv feet in length. Fine chopjied herring are thrown overboard to attract a "school," and suon one has work enough to tend his lines and ha.il in the mackerel as last as caught. Where two lines are used it is lively sport, and a hundred an hour is a common catch. I'lu- Ciilf of St. Lawrence mackerel are large in size and are usually in sjilendid londiticm. Tlu'ie i> another kind of mackerel fishing — that for the huge and oily horse-mackerel, or tunny, which is sometimes a dozen feet long, and has been known to attain the weight of half a ton. i'he specimens laughl here are usually smaller than this and not h.ird to manage. A heavy chain and hook are used, the water is "baited," and when .1 big fish takes the hook all there is to be done is to haul in the chain, and keep his head abnve water until he ou get in the way of it. All the rivers which flow into the bay are good fishir.g streams. Sea trout are j^ 34 found in the estuaries, and l»rook trout in the waters al)Ove. They are not so large as those further north. l)ut are of good size and flavor. The sea trout weigh four and five pounds ; the others run from half a pound to four pounds. Both branches of River Charlo have good privileges, both for trout and salmon, and are not under lease. Good sport is also had at the lakes, about four miles from the village. Another, and well known stream, is the Jacquet river, which is leased for salmon fishing. July is a good time to commence to look for sport on it, while August and September make suspicion of this kind a certainty. The scenery on the river is wildly grand, the waters running between precipitous rocks, roaring in cascades and foaming amid the boulders in the rai)ids. (luides are to be had at the village. If one wishes to be imattended, he can go up by a good purtage road, and will find excellent fishing as he goes. He is sure to have it at Sunnyside. eight miles from the station, or at the I'ot Hole and Kettle Hole, four miles higher up. The best ])lan is to fish all along between the two places, and one is sure to have good luck. Another choice i)lace is at the first falls, twenty miles from the station. Belledune La!:e. six miles from the station, in another direction, also has a good name for gamy irout. running from a half to two pounds in weight. The shooting along the bay and in the woods further inland is of the same fine character as that mentioned in connection with the Restigouche — ducks and geese ;ieu the water, and bear, caribou, moose, etc., in the forest. There is one thing which the tourist may hear of at Jacquet River, or in its vicii 'ly, which may puzzle him. It will puzzle him still more if he sees it. It is the phantom light of the Haie des Chaleurs. What it is.- no one seems to know ; the people along the shore believe it to be something which "is, but hadn't ought to be," among the in- habitants of this world: strangers dismiss it by the very indefinite designation of "electricity." It has been seen at times for the last three-cpiarters of a century, at least, and ])eoi)le know no more about it now than they ever did. It has appeared in various ])arts of the bay. from above Jaccpiet River down as far as Caraquet, some- times aij|)earing like a ball of fire within a mile or two on shore, and sometimes having the ai)pearance of a l)urning vessel many miles away. .Sometimes it shoots like a meteor ; at other times it glides along with a slow and dignified motion. Sometimes it seems to rest upon the water : sometimes it mounts rapidly in the air and descends again. It is altogether mysterious and eccentric. One may watch for months and never see it, but many reliable i)ers()ii> have seen it time after time. It is usually fol- lowed by a storm, and the most singular i)art of the story is that it has ac tually appeared above the i( e in the depth of winter. There is. of < ourse. a tradition that just before the light a|ipeare(l for the ;irst time, a jiari of the < rew of a wrecked vessel were mur- dered i)y their companion^, who appropriated all the plunder they could get. The piratical sailors were subsequently lost during a storm, and immediately after the event the light began its \agrant existence. Whatever be the cause, the phenomenon is there, though not always to be seen, for "sometimes the spirits work, and sometimes they don't." It is one of the strange things that ( ome in with the tide. I! AT 11 r RSI' is one of the liol laid out lowii-> in the Province, thanks to Sir Howard Douglas, by whom it was named and designed. Before li!> visit, in 1828. it had the aboriginal name of Indian Point, but Sir Howard iluly chri^ieued ii ii\ drinking the only bottle of wine in the place. In those days there was no Intendionial. and no chance to procure sup- plies at short notice. The announ( enient of the proposed offii i,il visit fil|( d the i)ublic with dismay— there was inii one bottle of uine to be h.d for lov- ur i.vji.ev. The fe as five uver iood well [good ficion ining |n the can lire to (Hole, |. and iniles I, also 35 recei)tion committee were e(iual to the occasion. When the banquet was spread, the wine was placed before Sir Howard, while the natives drank the toast in water so in- geniously colored that His Excellency never knew the difference. The streets of Bathurst intersect each other at right angles ; they are well graded, roomy, and shaded by numerous trees. The soil is so sandy that mud is never seen, and altogether the town is a particularly pleasant place both for the residents and for visitors. There are numerous pleasant drives. One is to the Tete-a-gauche, or Fairy River, the falls of which are about seven miles from the town, and How through a rocky gorge with very fine effect. On the return the Vale Farm is well worth a visit. Another drive is up the Nepisiguit to the Pabineau Falls, seven miles, taking in the Rough Waters on the return. At the latter place, the Nepisiguit runs for about a mile, roaring amid huge granite boulders which appear as if hurled thither by Titanic hands. For falls, however, there is nothing in the vicinity to ecpial the (irand Falls, twenty-one miles distant. There are two pitches, the total descent being 105 feet, and the grandeur of the rocky heights by which the river is here overlooked requires to be witnessed to have any conception of the sublimity of the scenery. (iood bathing may be had at the Point, three miles from the station, where there is a fine sandy beach. There are rumors that a large hotel is to be built at this place, and the choice of site would be an excellent one. Boating is had in the harbor and around the bay. Mackerel and smelts are fished for with good success, with lines. Some of the smelts measure a foot in length. This is a great country for salmon and trout. The former are taken on the Nepi- siguit as far up as the Cirand Falls. One of the favorite places for them is at the Rough Waters, but good pools are found all along the river. In former years a man has gone from Bathurst to Grand Falls, fishing uj), and returned the next day, fishing down, and brought home thirty salmon, weighing from thirty-five |)ounds each and under. The Tete-a-gauche is another good salmon stream, and the Middle River is fair, but not remarkable for its fishing. The early salmon requires rather a bright Hy. but Mr. Flannery, at the Railway Station, is the best one to give advice on this point. He knows all about Hies, and fish as well. Trout fishing with bait commences about the loth of May, and large qtiantitics of sea trout, weighing from half a pound to six pounds, are taken in the harbor. About the last of June, or first of July, the rivers begin to get good and continue so until V inter. During the summer a red. or brown, or small grey fiy brings good success, and ui the fall, when the fish take bait readily, one who prefers a Hy wotild do well tt) use a \,''iite one \\\ th a go. )d deal of tinsel. All the rivers and lakes have trout. V'oti can ast a line anywhere and something will rise to it. The Nepisiguit is about S4 miles long to the head of I'pper Lake. From this jioint one can portage to the Upsahpiitch. and thence to the Restigouche ; to the robi(jue, and down the St. John, and to the Northwest Miramic hi and thence to New- castle. The country is wild enough in the interior, and abounds with lakes and streams not laid down on any of the maps. These forests are [leopled wuh all kinds of game. .\ country which l)a> Imiurto been little known to the tourist is now opened up by the Cara(piel railway. This roail runs from Clloucesterj five miles east of Bathurst, to Shippegan. a ilisiaiu e of sixty miles. Its course is along the shore of the Baie des Chaleiirs, and the journey is a most attractive one to the lover of nature. Along the route are the villages of Salmon Beach. Clifton. .New Bandon, Grand .\nse and Garaquet. I'he latter. tid and ijuaint A( adian settlement wi lie fi)und worthv 'if the studv of the stranger. Good shooting and fishing are found all along the line. 36 A F I X K C ( ) U N r R ^' F (J R S P O R T lies between HiUliiirst and Newcastle. The 'I'abusintac River, about half-way, is one of the best sea trout rivers in America. The fish-stories told of it are perfectly astound- ing to a stranger. The trout are said to be as large as mackerel and so plenty that the fishing of them is like being among a mackerel "school." This may be taken with a little allowance, but there is no doubt that the river is an unusually fine one for sport. The visitors will find good accommodations on the banks, at the house of Mrs. Good- win, and from there he will go about six miles to the best trout ])ools. A horse and canoe are useful on the journey. The Tracadie River has also a splendid reputation. There are several other troit streams in the district, but this one is most worthy of mention. Caribou ! Ves. the caribou i)lains extend from the Northwest Miramichi to the sea coast ; and as to bears, the Bartibogue region jioints i)roudly to the record of the bounties paid on the bruins slain in its midst. Partridges are plenty in every jjart of this country, and fly ; .is ilie path of the traveller on every highway. M I R A M I C H 1 . It is just as well for people to believe that Miramichi means "Happy Retreat," ratlicr than to credit the greater i)rol)ability that it is derived from M iggumaghee, Mi(niac Land." Hapjjy Retreat is more ])oetical and gives visitors a chance to say how well tile designation suits the i)lace. and to gush over the noble river and goodly land which was once the heritage of the Red Man. The name and the fame of Mira- michi have s|)read all over the world. .Some peojjle in distant lands know it because of the limiber, some because of the fish, and many have a vague idea that it is a i)lace in Canada where there was a destructive fire years before they were born. Well, this is Miramichi. and the first place one stops at is Newcastle, a town fair to look upon as it slopes gently to the waters of the great river, which here l)roadens into an arm of the sea as it meets the waters of the (iulf '1 ficre was a time when one man, Denis tie Fronsac. owned the whole of this part of the country, and yet felt his importance a good deal less than many a bank i:lerk does to-ilay. That was a long time ago ; the value of real estate has risen since then, and the 2,000 scjuare miles granted in 1690 are now ( ut up so that Denis would not recogni/e them if he came back again. Miramichi has always been a pretty place and has always been j^raised by its visitors. Jacipies Cartier came all the way from France to have a look at it in 1535, and gave it a first-class noti< e in the guide book to Canada which he subsequently wrote. Every other guide-book man has done the same, and every one has told the truth. It is a stirring, wide-awake country, and its people have a right to feel proud of it and to praise it. i'hey duly exercise that right, and are happy in the enjoyment of their lovely heritage. 'I'he Miramichi River takes its rise two iuindred or more miles from its mouth, its head-waters lying in Carleton and \ictoria counties, within easy reach of the .St. John and its tributaries. Jhe .Northwest Hranch commences near the head waters of the Nepisiguit. and the two bramhes unite at iieaubere Island, a short distance above Newdistle. iloth bram lies are fed by numerous large streams, and the river drains over Ci.ooo sipiare miles of country, an area eijual to about a (juarter of the Province. It is navigable for large vessels fi)r forty six miles from the mouth, and for canoes for many hundred miles. I'he vast ( ounlry whi( h it drains has never been thoroughly exjilored ; even the ubiipiiious lumberman has but a partial knowledge of it ; and it will readily be seen that its resources for the hunter are practically without limit. Moose, t aribou. deer, bears, wolves. fi)xes. racoons. loup-( erviers. and all the 37 smaller animals range these forests, while fish leap from every lake and stream. By this great natural highway, and its connections, one may reach every section of the Province where a hunter wishes to go. No pent-up shooting park contracts his jjowers ; it is for himself to limit the extent of his journey. One whose time is limited does not need to wander far from Chatham or Newcastle in order to find abundant sport. As for fishing, he is in a fish country, from which the annual exports of salmon, smelts, bass, etc., are something almost incredible. Rod fish- ing may be had in every direction. Many good salmon privileges are not yet under lease, as, for instance, the Little Southwest and Renous rivers and their lakes, some of which have never been fully, explored. Wherever there is a high bank on one side and a low beach on the other, will l)e found a pool to which salmon are sure to resort. The Ox Bow, on the Little South West, a mile above Red Bank, is n favorite spot for fishers. The main North West is a particularly gootl river: one of the noted places on it is the Big Hole, five or six miles above the Head of the Tide. There salmon or grilse can be caugni. at almost all times, but are particularly abundant immediately after a rain. The Big and Little Sevogles, which empty into the river just named, have a good reputation. The former is a very pretty river with a fine water-fall, in the basin beneath which is excellent fishing at certain seasons. Immediately below is the Square Forks, where the north and south branches meet, a place with scenery of rather striking nature. The Miramichi salmon is not large, ten pounds being a fair average, but its flavor is very fine. Grilse average about five or six pounds. They are very gamy, and afford sjjiendid sport. Trout fishing is had in all the rivers, brooks and lakes. The Tabusintac has already been mentioned. 'l"he sea trout in it and in the Tracadie are very large. On both rivers there is good fishing for many miles from the mouth. Early in June, when the water of the Miramichi is low, fine sea trout are caught as far up as Indiantown. As for flies, the "Jock Scott" is considered good for all purposes. 'I'he " Silver Doctor" is another favorite, while for spring fishing a red body with white wings is found to have "a very taking way." During the siunmer, mackerel and codfish are taken wirh the hook in the Miramichi Bay, and in the summer there is also good bass fishing inside the Horse Shoe Bar, at the mouth of the river. The winter fishing for bass, with bow nets, is followed on the North W^est River, and fish as large as twenty i)ounds are taken. The winter smelt fishing has also grown to a great industry. Smelt take the hook as well, and are fished for in the fall and winter with jiggers, four hooks being used. As already stated, bear and caribou are plenty between Newcastle and Bathurst. Messrs. Connell and Kenna, who live at Bartibogue, have a wide reputation as hunters, and strangers can procure their services as guides. Partridge are very plenty. Plover and :-