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CIHM/ICMH
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1980
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HOTEL ROBERVAL.
Roberval, Lake St. John.
^
(Kaunfi^ of tfie ©uanarilcfte.
I the north, iil-;ii1\- two-thinls of the tlistancc from
York to Iliklson's l^ay, lies the home of the Oiia-
clie, the weird and picturcsciuc Lake St. John and
ibut.
ir\' waters.
■aw two strait^ht hncs to ^hc North Pole over the
p, one from New York and the other from Boston,
tilt
■itcrly and ca.stcrly bound;
)f the only
arics I
territor\- in which you need expect to find a Ouananiche. To
the south and to the north, this sportsman's paradise is bounded
by the fort)--ei^duh and fort)-ninth parallels, respectively, of north
latitude, llow do you ^et there? No wonder you ask this
c]uestion, for up to a )-car or two a^o the only means of commu-
nication between this vast territory and civilization was a loni,^ Indian pathway, blazed throu^rh
the woods, or b\- water-wa)s tra\ersetl b\- the inevitable bark canoe. Now, the mysterious
inland sea that the Indians call Pikouaiiami, and that we know as Lake St. John, is reached by a
daily parlor car .service that runs to the northern terminus of one of the most northerly railways
in America, nearly two hundred miles in leui^th, throu
- between the old citj- of
Quebec and the honie of the Ouananiche.
!l '
i I *
Batiscan River passed by Quebec & Lake St. John Railway on way to Hotel Roberval.
In thk RdiiKKVAi. I'ahi.ipk.
the lake and sunouiulinj,' couiUi)-
"j'l 1 K()l)er\al, thi; jjU'si'iU iiortlu'il)- terini-
^' \^^ mis of the (Jiiehec and Lake St. John
Railw ay, on the westerly sidL'of the lake.passen-
L,uT Irainsarrive at and lea\e ihi' station imnic-
(hatel) frontin^the 1 lotel Koberx al. I'hishotel
has been, of kite, so extended anil improved,
that it is now one of the most commodious in
Canada, it has a frontai^e of iSo feet, ovcr-
lookinj,r the lake, has two wind's, each one
hundietl feet lonj.^, and has accommodation
for three lumd red ^mests. It is supplied with
billiard-room, bowling-alley and a promenade
and concert hall, and its dining-room measures
seventy by thirt_\-five feet. The bed-rooms
are a 1 large, comfortable ami well \eiitilated,
.several being en suite, while almost ever)- room
in the house commands a magnificent view of
rile cuisine is unsuri)assed, being under the supervision of
a competent French chef The out-tloor attractiijiis arc lawn tennis, croquet, fishing, bathing,
boating and driving. The house is sujjplied with hot and coldwatcr,and electric light throughout,
the grounds being illuminated in like manner.
Ouiatchouaniche River, flowing into Lake St. John, near Hotel Roberval.
I jiyui ji -JlJI
1
'i»^ ''^^^tHWiiv* !¥-**•••«' '
* I *
Lake St. John from Hotel Roberval.
Jrusuiill)(l:it(,'s rioiii the first wcckof JiiiK-.u liilo
llu" more exciting sport of fi^htin^ these land
loilseil salmon in the seethin^^ rajjids of the (iraiul
1 )iseliHr^re, may l)e had from the first week of Julj'
to the iStli of September. Tliese rapids are formed
In- tile action of i,al-, tlu-re is scarcel\' an\thin;4 t<> compare with tlu> view of the setting' sun over lake
St. John as seen from the island House, unless it be the risin^ sun as seen across the same
body of water froin the Hotel Roberval.
When Mr. II. J. Heemer, pn>i)rirtor of these 1 lotc-K, returned from I'jirope in iS.S^ he found
that the lishini^ privileges in this vast territory had been leased from the Government, and were
controlled by private indiviiluals.
Grand Discharge Fishins Grounds near Island House, where the Ouananiche are caught'
(T"" OURISTS and anglers were being imposed upon
J on ever)- iiand, as high as $5 per day being charged
for a single rod. After consulting with representative
sporting men from New York, Boston, Philadelphia,
Brooklyn, Springfield, Washington and other large
cities, who were guests at his hotels, Mr. Beemer
put himself in communicatifin with the Provincial
Government, and ascertaineu that the leases expired
in the spring of that year, and with characteristic
American enterprise, at once concluded arrange-
ments with the Govcrinncnt to gi\ i- him the exclu-
sive fishing rights of Lake Sain John and its
tributaries, embracing an area of over 20,000 sciuare
miles'. These valuable waters are all thrown freely
open to the guests of Mr, Becmer's hotels, no charge being made for fishing rights, directly or
indirectly.
So that the payment of regular hotel rates, secures to the sporting fraternity of the United
States, Canada and Kuroi)e, the privileges of the grandest fishing waters of North America.
These houses are both under the supcrintendenc\- of Mr. T. Keima, late of the West Brighton.
Three .steamers are run upon the lake in connection with these hotels and fishing grounds,
namely : " Peribonca," " Undine," and " Mistassini."
In thr Rorkrval Billiard Room.
THE ISLAND HOUSE.
Run in connection with Hotel Roberval.
iT~^ 1 1 1^ latter is a ])cifectly new boat, staunch and
J fleet, capable of accommodating 400 passengers
anil will make daily trips across the lake, during
the tourist season, between Hotel Roberval ami
Island House, covering the distance of twenty -five
miles in one hour and a half
Ihis steamer is admirably furnished and
m /trtir^- ^■•I'^'ipP^"*^' ^^i'^''' every thing necessary for the com-
♦iMr"^ tort of passengers, and especially of that of the
^ lathes. .Another is available for excursions to other
l)arts of the lake and to its mighty tributaries, and
^''HPH' fiM^tr . a third, which carries some fifty pas.sengers, i.s in
On thk Robrkval GRonNos. great demand for private charters.
Complete outfits for camping parties are to be had at both hotels, and include sail-boats,
row-boats, canoes of the latest tiesign, tents, guides, cooking utensils and provisions.
At the foot of a .series of fill Is that terminate the first impassable rapids of the Grand Dis-
charge, the wily Ouananiche may always be fought and killetl from terra firma. Hut if jou de-
sire the most exciting form of the sport and the largest fish, while all the time you are enjojing
the most delightful kind of locomotion known to sportsmen, )()U must betake yourself to one of
the Canadian vo\ageurs' bark canoes, and be paddled In- the canoeman and his assistant, through
whirling rapids, around dangerous rocks and etldies, and by the edge of the pools where the land-
locked salmon of Lake St. John best love to linger in large sized shoals.
VV ^h^k
Camp Scott, below Grand Discharge near Island House.
(T) OTH the PVench and Indian voyageurs at Lake St.
' ,Jj John make splendid guides, and they are nowhere
more at home than in steering their frail birch bark
canoes through the rushing, whirling seething rapids of
the Discliargc, and in bringing the angler to the edge of
the scum-covered eddies, dotted with insect life, where
the hungry Ouananichc lies in ambush below, waiting to
spring ui)on his prey, as soon as his favorite fly floats
around, Thc\' arc magnificently wild, these rapids, and
it is a thrilling sensation to shoot them in the various
channels that wash the Thousand Islands of the great
lake's outlet, with nothing but the untutored skill of the
dusky guide, and a sheet of birch bark, between you
and eternity.
"\'et \ou may as safely leave the conduct of your
A GcEST OP THK HoTKL RoBRRVAL. cauoc tludugh thcsc foamlug waters, to your voyageur
guides, as you would your horses to j-our coachman in the streets of Boston or New York.
Nay, you are very much safer here. Street accidents are numerous in all our large cities, but
none are known to have occurred to life or limb in the exciting rapids of the Grand Discharge.
If you are a novice at the sport, your vojageurs will guide you in the selection of the
proper fly, and in the most probable locality for a cast.
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/^CCASIONALIA', the i^ainc of which nou arc in search, floats
*s^ about so near to the surface of the water, tliat a luiinbcr of dorsal
fins may be seen movini^ around through the creairy scum, that
has come down hiden with insect hfe from the overflowing churn of
)-onder rapids. Your "Jock Scot" or " I'armachcncc HcUc "
skimmin<^ the surface of the water, with an occasional brief dive
below it, has attracted the ncjtice of a voracious denizen of the
localit)', and then there is the tu£j, followed b\ the steady strain
upon the line, th.it the ;i.ns^lcr knows will not l)e for lonj^, without the
responsive tui; that he mechanically pulses to the ijormandiser at
the other cmA of his tackle. He has scarcely' time to e.\])erieiicc
the thrill of dclit^ht that coursed throui,di his system like an electric shock, as he felt and return-
ed the tUL,r ;it his hook, before he re.ilizes the fact that his troubles have only just be^un. The
driving home of the hook w ;is as simple anil as quickl}- done as the pressing of the button ot
his " Kodak." Hut that is not all. " Vou i)ress the button," .sa>'s in effect Mr. Ouananiche, "we
do the rest," and he proceeds to tlo it too, forthw'ih. lie .hows fight from the start, and his move-
ments would seem to indicate a combination ot Imoii, bass and trout. If he be a five or si.x
pound fish, he may run out a good deal of line, and if the humor strikes him, will get awa\- down
and sulk like any salmon. It is not very long, however, until he wakes uj) to business, for he
knows nothing, in these rapiils, of the life of inilolence and lu.\urious ease, that conduces to enerva-
tion and effeminacy.
Ouananiche saught by a hotel suest, near Island House.
^7^~ 1 1 1'" \rry cxn'tcniciit and ui'a'st nf lii^^
^^ ^uniUMidini^s ixMidcr iiiacti\it\' iinpossiUlc to
him, wliik- tlic plij'sical exertion, necessarily
eniploNcd in his constant strnt^^^des, amid the
miL^hty forces of those turhiiK-nt waters, insures
for him tlie possession of that courai,rc, a^iUty
and streiiL^th, that make iiim tlie recoL;ni/.ed
champion of the fmn\' warriors of Canach'an
waters. In ])roportion to liis a\<)irdupois, he
can do more tackle smashint,^, pound for
pounti, than an\- fish that swims, liis leaps
are ])rodiL;,; 'Us. He can 'j^lvc a black" bass
loni;' otids, anfl then sIkiw him ])oints in hit^h
jumpin;^. Habituated to overcome ol)stacles to his proL^ress up stream, b_\- throwini;' himself o\er
tiiem throu;4h the air, his skyward somersaults and aerial contortions when hof)ked, leave the
angler little leisure for contemi'lation while the strut^L^le is in prof^rcss. When it is understood
that a Ouananichc of fi\e ])ounds weii^ht will freciuently leap fovu' feet or more out of water in
his endeavor to i^et free, and, perhaps, a dozen times in succession, some idea ma)' be formed of
his capacit)- for rod antl tackle smashiiii;, and of the skill that is nccessar\- to bring him safely
out of both air and water. It has not infrequently happened that the somersaults of a Ouananichc
hnve resulted in a leap into the anjflcr's canoe.
A Guest of Hotel Roberval Ouananiche fishinff on the Metabetchouan River.
r\ n r^\ I I'.N \()ii Ii:i\(.' killed yniir Ouiiniinichc, you ha\c sccurctl one
VV of the hiuulsoincst ;is well ;is one of the ;4amest fish that swiins.
Listen to Mr. J. (j. A. Creit^hlon's description of this brilliant
warrior of our northern waters, from his i)aper in Scribncr's : —
" In ajjpearance, a fresh-run salmon and a fresh run Ouananiche
do not differ much m.n'c than salmon from different ri\ers. The
back of a Ouananiche is t^recner blue, and in a fish just out of water,
d K^^^' -=^'_-dj4^^^f can be seen to be marked v\ith (jHvc spots, somethini;^ like the
^^^^'- 1* — '- fg/ vermiculations on a trout. The silver)- sides arc more iridescent,
the X marks are more numerous and less sharplj' defined; the
patches of bronze, purple and i^reen on the i;ill-co\ers are lari^er
and more brilliant, and w ith them are se\eral lar_L;e round black
spot.s. As the water l^mows warm, the brij^ht hues ^^et dull, and
toward autumn the rust}- red colour and hooked lower jaw of the spawnint^ salmon develop.
As the Ouananiche, unlike the salmon, feeds continuous!)-, and in nnich heavier and swifter water
than salmon lie in, it has a slinuner bod\- and larj/er fins, so that a ti\e pound Ouananiche can
leap hiL;-her ai
id oftener than a LM'ilsc, and fisjht like a te
n-])ound sahn(
m.
The Ouananiche is much lonj^er than a trout of the same weii;ht ; a fi\e pounder, for ex
am])le, is J5 inches lon;^-, twehe in i;irth and looks like an ei
;ht
pound salmon.
N
ow and then.
solitary- fish of L;reat size are seen, but the}' are intensel}' war}-, aiul cu-efully ^aiarded by the
demon oi i
11 luck
Lake Bouchette near Lake St. John.
S(l\Cl"L'i!.
^h. all
■11 (if
n/^rr ci.ARKi': s.us :—
^ \^ " 'I'uo nr thiTc American lakes, to wliich
this piebald cliain|)i<)ii has been transpLmted,
know him as the land-lockerl salmon, but in
Lake St. John alone does he display his amazing
and ob>linate strength, his marxellous fmcsse,
his tenipe>tuous sonier-aults and his tremendous
ti.H'htini;- (|ualilies. WeiL^ht for ueii^ht, he is
innneasurabl)- the j^rande-^t i^aine that has yet
lallen to the tisheiMnan's lure.
In L;eneral outline, the ( )uananiche is a far
more i^raceful Ush than the salmon, and in
delicacy and in tlaxor of lle^h, is infmiteU' more
palatable than either salmon or trout. As a
stimulatini.^ sport, and fermentiiiL; excitement in its capture, he is absoluteh-
the watery kiuL^dom. The sportsman, whose hook the first time impales the fish,
is
or(nnL
will be c"umbff)imded at tiie tremendous leaps and fiery strui^olcs of this lieroic antai/onist. H
\i''drous contentio
astoiuidnu
hile at e\er\- leap into the air, he t
uri
IS a complete
omersault, all the while shakiu'' his hearl with the fierceness of an enraged tiiier.
ri
lese teri'ii'ic leajjs are so contimioirs, that one seems t
o ne
fi'ditinLJ the fish in the aii
much as m the water.
Meiabetchouan Falls and Ouananiche Pool,
Nl) Adiroiuliick Murray cdiurihutcs tliis U) tlie literature of
-^^ the subjeet: —
" in Lake St. John, that wonder of Ljainc-fish, the noted
Ouananiclie, is freely taken. In one of the rivers flowing!; into the
lake, Uj) a short distanee from the mouth of it, over si.\ himchx'd of
tlv.'se maL^iiifieent hsh could be counted in one pool, as I passed
through the nei^hborhooil last fall. In look the)' are much like
our land-locked salnmn, but hea\ens, how the\' rise to our flics!
And how stout and stubborn the\- are 1 ilow they fis,dit it out with
the rodsman I Man\- an American rod will i)c smashed, I fancy,
nc.\t summer, and man_\' a stout and trustv tackle broken tjy these
stubborn fiLjhters, tha.t _\ield not e\cn to the salmon in the fierce
enern)- of their Jilax'. l-"or 1 know my coimtrymen l(jo well, not to
know that when tiie_\- can ride in a rullman car from Ho.ston and
New \'ork to the \ery shore of this Ljreat northern lake, this home of the famous Ouananiclie,
the most noted L;ame-lish except the salmon in the woild, in twenty hours, as ihev can now do,
a thousand pliant rods, held in practised hands, will be bendini;- to the strain that this kini;' of
fish, in the clear waters of Lake .St. John, will put upon them."
.\ numlier of \er_v lari^e catches were last year reported l)\' .\merican ani^iers on their retiu'n
from the ( )uanam'che waters of Lake St. John, and these included se\eral fish of six poiuuls and
ujjward in weight.
«5SS»-.
- -^
.^.
THE LITTLE SAGUENAY
Passed by Quebec & Lake St. John Railway, on the way to Hotel Roberval,
w
''^ MOXGST the many prominent Americans who enjoyed exceptionally
-^'V.^finc sport am. )n_t,f the Ouananiche in 1890, we may mention paticu-
larl\-: Robt Ir\ineand wife ofGaKcston, Tex.; RobtG. Moran, j.M. Randall
George R. Mosle, C. !•". Moslc, J. H. Doris and son, Mr. and Mrs. C. R. Miller,
Dean Hoffman, and .Sanuicl \'. Hoffman, \.\'.; D. Hoyt, \V. H. Mathews,
J. R. C'liambcrlain, Rochester, ^'.^^; J. H. Osborne, Auburn, \.\'.; Dr.
D. ('. Harker, George I'.. N'oorhens, Jr., Morristown, X.J. ;(),('. Robertson
and wife, Hinsdale, N.ll.; Charles D. Tomlinson, Sterlint^ I'"ilmer, Hridi^^e-
port, Conn.; the Re\'. hrancis J. Russell, \\'aterbur\-. Conn.; M. Haile\-,
Dr. 11. llyxcrnol, Washington, D.C.; M. G. Cununini;, .Maryland; 1"..
N.\'., D. \\ . .Sanders, the lion. M. T. (Ox. and Harvey Mjers, Kentucky.
Se\cral parties last yt\ir ran the whole ol the rapids of the Grand i)ischar<.,a' from i..ike .St.
John to the .Sa,L;ucnay River, and returnetl to (Jiiebec b_\- steamer from Chicoulimi. hor ])eople
in search of an e>;citini; \acation ti'ip, this is the tour ])ar excellence, so far as Canada is concerned.
\'(n\ niilroad it from (juebec to Lake St. John, thmuL^h the wildest mountain, lake, forest, and
ri\ei- scencr_\- of which this northern country is ca])al)le; take a steamboat across the lake, and
canoe it down the I'apids of the 1 )ischarL;e to Cliicoiitimi, as ali'cad)- described. 1 he steambuat
tri]) from Chicoutimi to (juebec is funiliar to most .\merican tourist-. \'ou flescend 'lie dark
;tnd mysterious Sat;uena_\', past Capes I'rinity and h.ternity, to its dismal mouth at the .Mamelons
of Tadousac, made famous b)- "Adirondack" Murrax, in his Canadian idyll, "The Doom of
Mamelons."
McCartlu', S\racuse,
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af;
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('^j\^ XI) then there is the picturestiue sail up tlie St. Lawrence to Quebec,
-*^ Vw'past Kixcrihi I.nupaiul Murray l^ay, w ith the (i|)p(irtunit\- of sta_\-inL;'
a few (la_\'s at llie Saratoi^a of Canada, jjcerlcss I'acouna, the <|ueen of tlie
waterini; places of the St. Law rence, with its wln'rl of fasliionable anuise-
nients, its salt sea bathint^f, and cool river breezes.
Hut the grandest part oi" the trii? is the tort)- mile canoe ride from the
Island Mouse to the (irande Dischars^^e, at Chicoutimi. If the canoe could
shoot the whole of the intrr\eninL;' rapids, the run iSou'rI occup_\' but a fe\\'
lv)urs. I'here are a number of shoots ant! cascatle.-;, however, o\er which
nothing that has life can lloat and li\e, and these nuisl, of course, be portat^ed.
There is sensation enouL;h, in all conscience, in the rapids that the canoemen slioot. One of
these attains the \-elocit_\' of a mill-race. It is two miles Ioul;', \x't it is passed in three or four
minutes. \'(iu travel with the \elocit)- of a liL;htnini; express, and are often unable to distinguish
objects on the shore, even though \<)U ma\" not have seen a flask for ila_\ s before. l'"r()m fort)' to
fift)- Americans made this cxcitiuL;' trij) last \ ear. it costs fnjm $8 to $12 i)er head, accordinj,^
as it is made siuL^l)- or b)' two travcllint;' together. It would cost much less, were it not that two
or three da)s are consumed b)- the canoemen in t^cttiiiLj back from Chicoutimi to the (jrande
Dischari^rc with their canoes. It will thus be seen that the)' are exceetlini^i)- low in their chari^es.
A canoe with two L;uides costs but $2.50 per da)- antl the men's board, no matter whether
)'ou emplo)- them while fishint; or in runnint;" the rapids.
''^Tl XOTHKR party, Eugene >rc("ulli)- of Sxraciise, and William lla\c.s
.^r\^ i>( I Iii,Higate, — an I'Jiglishinan of nicans and leisure, made a detour
last _\ ear of a different kintl from that alread\- deseribed.
After fishing' for Ouananiehe in the Grande Dischart^a', the)- ran up a
northern tributary- of the San'uenay, eamjjed on the shores of Lake aux l^ro-
ehet, antl thence by \\a_\' of \-arious jiortai^'es ,nul water stretches reached the
I'eribonca Ri\er, fort\' nnles from its mouth, .nul floated down on its stream
to Lake St. John. 'I'hey took an enormous (|uantit\' of trout in the inland
streams antl lakes upon which the\- floated, ,ind some L,n"i^antic pike in the
Teribonea River, and their little side excursion occupied tliem e.\actl_\' a week.
Ouananiehe and speckled trout of ,i tremendous size swarm the i'eribonca.
One of the latter, taken throuj^h the ice during;' the past winter, measured
,2.S'4 inches and weighed nine poumls.
Murra\' has truly said that the ri\ers which flow into Lake .St. John are
worth}' of a volume by themselves, Thex' are of large size, deep, wide and
long. The I'eribonca is over 400 miles long antl nearl)' two miles wide at its
'moutli. It is navigable, by the steamboat on the lake, to the first falls, thirty
nnles from its mouth. It flows into Lake St. John from a north-easterl)' direction, and near its
mouth is j(jined by the Little l'eril)onca, whicii comes in a direct line from the north and is 100
miles in length. Into the north-west angle of the lake flows the magnificent Mistassini, — .so
called because it was fondly supposed at one time to be the outlet of m\'stcrious Mistassini
Lake, — tliough it is now an admitted fact that the surplus waters of that vast inhuul .sea find
their way into James' Bay.
¥;;
' 1 1.\ r c'xciliiiL; ciisLUssions h;i\c arisen (i\cr tlic extent and diniLnsioiis ot
Mistassini, so famous in Imlian ni)th and lej^end ! A Canadian surveyor
claims to have settled the whole t|ucstion beyond dispute. Hut the Indians
that roam the wilds between Lake St. Jolin and Hudson Hay dispute his con-
clusion. The Indian side of the discussion has been repeatedly placed before the
Canadian anil American jjublic by W. II. II. Murra>-, of HurliiiLjton, \'t., and
IC. r. I). Chambers ami John Hit;tiell, of Quebec, not as a conclusive solution of
the difficult)-, but as an arL^ument in favor of the sending out of a i^roperU'
'ecjuipiteil and officered Government expedition to finally settle the ])roblem in
the interests of geographical science. A private expedition led by Indians, was
undertaken last summer b\- Professor Louden and Mr. Macdonald of Toronto
Universitw Thex- succeeded in reaching Lake Mistassini, and explored a consi-
derable ])ortion of its coast line, experiencing a most exciting trip and returning
to the Hotel Robeival with die carca.se of a large black bear, which the)- had
killed on the bank of the Mistassini River the previous day.
A part)- of sportsmen from New York succeeded in killing four bears, last
summer, in the course of the hunting .season, u]) the Ashuapmouchouan River.
.\ trip of this kind, or an expedition to Lake Mi.stassini, by a joint canoe route
and trail through the woods, that has not been run, for its greater part, b)- half
a dozen white men, ma)- be arranged for through the management of the Hotel Roberval, w ith
the Montagnais Indians whose reserve is but three miles distant.
Specimens cf Ouananiche.
I
n
■M
1
(7^ I lOSl"'. who have only a week or two, or perhaps only two or three clays to devote
J to camp life in these northern woods, ina\' select anj' one of twelve or fifteen routes
nia])])i(l out for woodsmen, all of wliiiii were un known to white menacouple of years
aL;o, and which must sti lie made under the ex|)erienced Icai! of Indian j^uides.
Most of these consi: c in ascending either the Graiul or Little I'eribonca, the
Mistassi.ii, the Asluiapmouchouan, the Ticiuabc, the Iroc|uois and some of their tribu-
taries, portaijfinLj from water to water, nowhere a difficult task in these latitudes, where
lakes and rivers abound, and descending by some other stream into Lake St. John.
TIk' inland streams and lakes away to the north, that form such enjoyable links in
the chain of the.se tours, lilerall)' swarm with speckled trout, anti their waters have rarel)' been
invadeil b\- civilizcil fishermen. 'Trailsmen and cam])in^f ])arties may so map out their route before
leavinij the hotel, as to remain in the wooils from four or five daj's to as many weeks, or lon}4er.
I'he Mistassini Ri\cr, already referretl to, is two miles broad at its mouth and three hundred
miles lon|4. It is navigable b)' steamer to the fool of the first cataract, a magnificent water-
fall, whose roar can be heard for a ver\- <,M-cat distance, and which is 21 miles from Lake St. John.
Professor Julian C Janes, of Hartford, the first American to ascend the river to this point, made
a marvellous catch of Ouananiche, near the foot of the falls, in the summer of i
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(^^^HE autumn fishing for Ouananiche is always
J good in the I'cribonca and Mistassini rivers, and
also in the Metabctchouan, which flows into the lake
from the south. Mowing into lake St. John fnnn the
west, antl at a ])oint seven or eight miles south of the mouth of the
Mistassini, is the Ashuapmouchouan, 250 miles long, aiul over half a
niilc wide at its mouth. It is navigated b\- steamers for ten miles from the
ake, and is 400 feet wide at ninet>- miles from its mouth. Its name signifies,
' The ri\er uhcre the\- watch the moose," and aptl)- tlescribes its attractions
for the sportsman. Wild ducks and geese freipicnt the .\sluiapmouchouan in
arge llocks e\er_v spring and autmnn.
Near the south-west angle of the lake, the waters of the Ouiatchouan, leap ilovvn
t() its level over a lofty precipice, forming one of the most picture cpie bits of scenery
in these northern wilds. The I'alls are 236 feet in height, and ri\al in altitude those
of Montmorenc)-, while the>- far surpass them in the tlistribution of their waters, as
the\- ilescend o\er pn jecting rocks. "Ouiatchouan," in the Cree language, means.
"Do \()U see the falls there?" The beautiful Ouiatchouan h'alls ma\- be seen for many miles
around, and from almost ever\- part of the lake, and have given to the river its name. Alongside
the village of Roberval, there flows past the 1 lotel iiUo the lake, the wildl\- ])la\ful Ouiatchouanichc
or Little Ouiatchouan, over a rocky antl rough descent, where its waters are lashed into spray
as they sportively leap in cascade, or dash onward in a succession of picturesque rapids.
; I
Montaffnais Indians, near Hotel Roberval.
J. y^ n-
*EMOINE quotes from the correspondence of E. T. D.
.Cb^rnbcrs in a Toronto newspaper, the following
description of a visit to the headquarters of the Lake St. John Indians: —
" On Sunday I visited, with a number of other tourists, the Indian
Reserve at I'ointe Hleuc. The Montagnais, who gather here for their
summer mission, and for the manufacture of their canoes, hunt in winter
the woods that lie between Hersimis, on the Lower St. Lawrence, and
Mistassini Lake. They are probably the most interesting tribe in North
America, and certainl\- no other Canadian Indians can nearly approach them in darkness of skin.
They are sodccidedU' copper-colored, that the Hurons of Lorette, would appear quite pale-faced
alongside of them. Here and there I picked out one of somewhat doubtful origin, and in almost
all of such ca.ses, was but little sur[)ri.sed to learn, that they had been born in the vicin-'^y of the
Hudson Bay Company's posts at Lake Mi.stassini or James' Bay. There are scarcely any old
men or women in the tribe. The hardships that they endure are certainly responsible for the
absence of longevity. They spend their winter nights in tents or lodges, sleeping upon sci/>tn
boughs piled up on the snow, and when game is scarce, they not infrequently feel the pangs of
hunger for .several days together, while man\- of their number have been known to die of star-
vation. The stpiaw s displaj- great admiration for gay colors, and wrap their shoulders in the
brightest of bright cotton handkerchiefs, which arc also u.sed as head dresses for the girls. The
costume of a Montagnais matron is incomplete without the tribal tuc|uc, similar in shape to the
ordinar}' tucpies of Canadian snowshoers, but u ith the [joint caught down in front to the band, and
the whole formed of alternate pointed stripes of red and black, each stripe piped in blue.
^T*^HE distinguishing feature of a Montagnais Belle is the manner of dressing her deep black
J hair. This is divided in two by a parting at the back, and at cacli side it is fastened in front
of her car in a large roll finished off around the middle, exactly like a hank of yarn. I attended
their service on Suiida}' in the little Indian Church, and heard them sing in their own peculiar
language in adoration of the Virgin."
W. H. H. Murray in speaking of these Indians says:
" The}- are the ' Mountaineers' of ancient times and wars, and dwelt among the Laurentian
Hills. The}' were a brave stock, and they and the l^^sciuimaux of Labrador were nc\erat peace.
The Mounds of Mamelons at the mouth of the Saguenay could tell of wars fought on them for
a thousand years, could their sands but speak. The Montagnais at Roberval arc very dark of
skin. They are great hunters, skilled trappers, great canoemcn and runners. The\' are a racial
curiosit)- and worth}- of study on the part of tlie intelligent tourist, and the sight of them, and
their peculiarities will be entertaining to all."
The naturalist, even though he may not be a sportsman, finds much to interest him at Lake
St. John. The Smithsonian Institute of Washington sent to the Grand Discharge last }-ear,
for specimens of the Ouananiche. The botanist meets with a profusion of wild flowers of great
variety, and is startled to find a wealth of vegetation that is altogether lacking f-om a degree ,md
a half to two degrees further .south. The extreme fertility of the vast amount of arable land
that stretches awa}' from Lake St. John on every side, and the magnificent fields of wheat, that
meet his vision in the fall of the year, are at first sight quite a puz/le.
(fp^'HK mctcf)r()l(\ijist fiiuls in the presence of so vast a surface of insular water, a probable exi)la-
J nation of the extraordinarily pieasintif temperature of this hit^hiy favored localit)-; but it is
difficult to assi<4n any seemingly adequate cause for the splendid climatic condition of the entire
Lake St. John country, or more northerly bend which it tjfives there to the isothermal line, that
properl}' belon^^s to a latitude from lOO tojoo miles further south. So much .so is this the case, that
the official report of the Dominion IMeterolo^ical Service, from the 15th of September to the 8th
of October I.S90, shows the result of observations at the Roberval Meteorological .Station, as
indicatinjj; for the whole of that period, a mean tem])erature two det^recs hit^her than that of
Montreal and Quebec. The time of ' the sere aiul \ellow leaf," is perhaps the most favorable period
of the \-ear for visitiiit^' Lake St. John. A part)- of Ouebecers led bv Mr. R. M. Stockini^,
General Railwa\- and Steamship Passenger Ai;ent, at Quebec, spent some da)s in October last
at Lake St. John, to enjoy the milder temperature prevailinj^ at that point. On the first of
October, the thermometer rcs^istered 66 at Quebec, and 7S at Robeival. On the tii(l!i(r,Vi('c-l're.sideiit.^\'aterhiirv "
.Toliii ('. ('lumdierlaiii, See.-Treas liridtrepdrt "
W. R. I'>rij.'j.'s, iiieinl)er8 " "
A. ClianilH-rlain, " Merideii, ('(uiii.
J<,lin \V, Coo, "
■losepli \V. Davis, " New York.
Geo. H. I'^sterhrook, " Uoston, .Masw.
Waiter liuiiliard, " Meriden, ('(Hin.
H. \y. I.ine.s, "
Wm. R. Ma.kay, " •'
Allan \V. I'ajje, " New York.
Jas. I', riatt, " Meriden, Conn.
Geo. L. I'orter, M. D., " Bridgeport"
THE METABETCHOUAN FISHING & GAME CLUB.
(Inrnrpnrnti'd.)
Major n. M. Read, Meniix'r.s Brid^'eport, Ct.
Hon. M. W. Seymour, " " "
A. Swords, " .Stanford "
I'rof. W. K. Townsend, " .New Haven "
(ieo. II. Wilcox, " Meriden
R. M. Stocking', " (jnelx^c
Hon. Til. W. DownH, Hon. Member Hrid^report "
LOWKR PART OF MKTAHKTCIloUA.X RIVER
TItK AMAUKI.ISII KISII AM) OAMK (U.l II.
i E. S. Hrewt^r, I're.sident Sprinjjileld, .Mass
i 1), N. Coats, Vice-I'n^sident " "
I E. M. Coats, Sec. & Treas "
lYank l>. Foot, niendiers " "
R. W. Dav, "
bonis 11. Orr, " " "
Walter n. llessen, "
E. C. Rarr, " " "
Dr. S. W. Howies "
Col. .M. V. H. Eiljrerbv, "
Dwiiibt O. (iilniore, " " •' •'
Heiirv S. Dickinson, " " "
Col. H. .M. I'hillips, "
K. A. Aldeii, "
X. D. Hell, "
A. H. Wallace, "
•loiin I'ettifrrew, " " "
W. H. bockwood, " Hartford County.
, Cliarles McKniglit, • " Sprin{;lield,Mas8
UPPKR PORTION OF MKTAI5F,TrnOTTAN UIVKR.
(L'SmilfH.)
l'IIII,AI)i:i rill A |-|HIIIN(i AND (lAMK CMU.
Amna R. Mttlc, I'rcsidciit Pliiliul(!l|)liiii, Pciin,
I)iivi(| (i. Yali's, N'ici'-I'n'sidciit " "
1''. II. I>(i\\ MS, Sciicl;u'y iiiid Troiisnrer (Jiiflx'c.
(jeiprjf < hil-s |)ii]iu('ll "
W. Kdnh'ii and i thcr.s "
■I'liK i.Arui:Niii)i:s ci.riJ, (jiKUiC.
Prpsidont; K. 1$. (laiiu-an.
Vici'-Pn'sidcnt : liuiiis I". P.iirr(nij.dis.
SciTCtiiry : J. (ice. (iari'caii.
Treasurer: .Icscjili WiidieM.
Directiii's: ( '. A. I'eutl.iiid, ('rawlnnl l.iiidsay, Cliarles
.(. P>iirr(pii;ilis, ,1. I. l,ii\('i\, James 11. -Aiidersoii.
■IS iiKMiil CIS and -4 li()iiiirar\ iiit'inheis — its lest lal es
are Iju- :Ii h Itlcs, l.nc I'mv. r^i uml Lm- /■'nii.
I-OWKR I'AKT OK LAKK F, I) WARD.
Illl-: I'AKAIilSK 1-IN AM) KKAI HKl: CI. I I!.
.IikI'jc Ileurv A. (Iiiil.leisl 'cn e I'ri'sidi'iil. New York
,l-iili C. D.iv'is Vi.c I'res.
.I< sep'i K. Kiimiot, jr .'-e rel.ir>..\ lliai y.
Hir eti (l.ir.vc Ticasiirer. .New \iirl<
Willi. 111! I'. Dniiran. M. H .Menile..-.
.laiiK .s T. Davis
.loir Winds
E. K. I,«\vi.s, :M. D
H. C.Tuvlor
Hon. G. Cleveland, ex-Pres. U. S ...
r, O W E R PART O F L A K K V) D W A R D.
TIIK I-ARADIHK KINK AM) i;:ATii;;n C IIJ.
W. W. Randall
Cliarles W. Tlionias ''
('. R .leller.SDli
II. C. .Miiu-r
I,, liicliardsiin '•
Hon. 11. ,1. (Irunt, .M.iyor .\. Y. ( ity.
Willi, iin M' ser, jr '"
All''. I'itoii ' "
l.riTl.K .^AdlKVAV ll.-ill AM) OAMI-: C, lli.
C. .\. Sott, ('. !•:., Preside t, (iiiel.e ■.
K. .\. I'anet, .\. I'., Viee I're.sider.t, SI. Rayin..ni
C. S. I'arke, .\l. D„ Se.ict, .ry-'l reasiirer, (iiirl)iT
.1 ('. Teneyi'l., attiiri;e,\ at l.i\\, New York.
A\'. S. I >o« lies, attoriie.v at l.i\\ ; l!:riiiin;.'li.iiii, < '<
W. !,. IJeniieit, attori.ev at la« , .New Haven, (n
lte\. .M. 1 rerliette, St. (roi.x, I". (,>.
.lolin Sheriiir.' I'.uddeii, (.^'.-.e! u ■,
W. \\'. Wei h, (iuehec.
A. (i. Deiiier.s, tiuelio ■.
i:in.
iin.
SrAllAa)NA KISU AM) (JAMK C. llJ <)1' ((I i;iJi.f.
II. T. Marliin. President, liiud)(^'.
I'. I lolloway, Vice President.
W. ( '. l-^eatoii, Treasurer.
.1. I,. I'ltdl, Superinteiideiil.
.1. I",, I,i vcniois, Sccri'tarv.
,1. I,. Wolili, .1. .1. C'odviile, T. S. Hetlu'riii^rtoii,
Hiunilton, W. Duhell, T. Bt'ukett and E. Fitili.— Li
I to twelve members.
.lolin
mi ted
In a Quebec & Lake St. John Railway train, bound for Hotel Roberval.
SOME AMERICANS WHO WERE REGISTERED AT HOTEL ROBERI/AL LAST SUMMER.
Mi\ imd Mrs. TIkls. J. (»'I)iiii(i!mh' Xcu
MilStcl- ,l'l»(Pii(ihiu^
.1. Wi'ale I'liiiiili
Mrs. A. (i. rimiil .•
(1. |). ( 'odper
(lias. II. Taft and wife
.1. I,. l>rc'\\sti'r and wifi'
(ico. R. .Mnsl(^
C. T. Moslo...
.Iiilm M. I 'avis and .siiii..<
C. \i. Miller and wife
Kdlit. O. .Miiran
\U'\. Hean IlnHiiian
Samuel V. Hull ni an
I'rank Tannaliill and family
(ie(iri:e lies
(ieur<:e X. Heinliardt and wife
Win. U. UceUuell
(ieorfxe ("<«j:ill
T. \j. Dana and wife
T. M. rnderliill and wife
CM. Baker
S. II. Sternt
W. II. \Vri'.ilit and wife
Dr. Casselnian and wife
Ira .Me Keel and w ift>
Miss Hailov
Yiirk. AV. J. I'lnixMi and wife New
.Miss liriiwn
.\. I,. Webster
" .1. T. .Andrews
' Michael ( ardoza
W. II. Smith
.1. D. Smith
Mr. and Mrs. (ieo. 11. 'Iharhei'
" Peter Can tin
" , ('has. Davis
'• (ien. Ilenrv Hnriiett
W. II. Ihisl.y
" Miss Kurd
Miss Dav
.1. Dun^.'ras
" (ieu. II. Hazen and wife
" .Mis.s .Marian Douglas
.1. V. Allan
J. V. .Mian, Jr
" A. (i. Manninjz
R. F. Manning
" F. ('. (lark and wife
Miss (lark
Miss S. (lark
Mrs. K. ('. (lark
" T. ('. Otis and son
" Rev. T. (i. Ware and wile
" (>. (iilliird Stilwell and wife
.lohii Pratt
York.
GUESTS REGISTERED AT HOTEL ROBERVAL.—Contwued.
Wm. Kelson New York.|
Mr. iind Mrs. ]>. G. Thoni]ison
,Iiis. P. Diivis
Hiirri« 1). Cnlt
(i. II. NiclidlLs iuiil wife lloosick I'alls
Wiilter A. Wood, .Ir
T.N. Stevens
Dr. .1. {". Otis iind son Pou^rlikeepsio
Eu^iene ]M('('urtliv Syracuse
Hon. .Indfie Wallace
A. Well) Howe (Wliite Hat I'isli-
inj: Chill)
Wm. S. Head) (White Hat Fishinf;
Chib)
.1. A. McFiirreu
WiUiiun K. Avers "
W. H. Mathe'ws lio.hester
David Hoyt
.las. It. Cluunberlain "
.1. II. Osl.orne "
Dr. I'. (' llarber Morristown, N..I.
(ieo. !■'. Vddrlices, Jr "
A. ('. Hohertso'i and wife Kiiiside, N.H.
D. W. Sanders Kentucky.
\V. T. Con
Harvey Myers "
.1. Chandlers ('ovini.'ton "
Cajit. .1. Ward and family Saviiiinnh, (ia.
,1. C. Harr Northaniiiton, Mass.
Cha:.. Kent "
T. 11. Warnor " I
J. H. Osborne Anburn, N.Y.
W. H. Busbv
I.. H. Price..".
E. Stibbins Oakl.uid, Cal.
Alfred Stibbins San Francisco, Cal.
iNlrs. E. L. Stibbins
Miss bonda Stibbins "
S. T. Dana Cinciui ati, Oino.
C. M. Halloway .•
.1. C. Hammond Denver, Col.
A. I). Wilson
Mr. and Mrs. John Tnjrlis "
I). E. Darnell Morristow n, N..I.
Iiishon of Iowa Davenp. rt, la.
Vra. Perry "
Miss Perry ''
Dishop Walker Farj^o, N. Daki ta.
H. S. A. Stewart Pittsimrj;.
Wm. Flinn
.Mlx/rt Howell and wife Atlanta, Ga.
(has. ,1. Bryan ISrooklyn, N.Y.
Hiram .lones and wife "
('has. A. Brvan and wife "
Mrs. E. il. Brooks
W. M.Cole
.lohnT. Fyfe
E. M. Coats S|irin):lield Fishing Clnb.
(ie.uve Nijilitinpile "'
HcnrvS. Dickerson "
A. B.Wallace "
Cluis. Fuller • "
4
GUESTS REGrSTEUEI) AT HOI Kl. ROBhJRVJ L—Conthnwl.
T>. M. Coiits S|>rin<:fi«'l(l Fisliinn (luli.l
riias. 1'. Hooker "
E. T. Hrower Springfield, Mass.
F. I). Witmore "
Mr. and Mrs. K. \V. Day
Wni. A. (lark Louis, Mo.
Jnsi'pli S|i('{'lit and wife
¥.. I'. Sju'cht
E. H. Speclit
Bliss Adelaide Spoclit "
C. T. Batelielder Boston, Ma.'^s.
Miss Heek
IMiss Eleanor Heck "
John ('. Ten Evck and wife "
P. 8. Atherton.'
Clias. M. Sears
Harrv S. Potter, ,Jr
A. C. Potter
Dr. Henry C.Towle
John .1. McCorinack "
J(din W. McCorniack "
James R. Mnriihy "
Rev. (". W. Rathke, C.S.S.K
T. r. Stowell
G. H. Stowell
G. II. l,(!onard "
Geo. Win. Esterhrooke "
W. Elivt iM'tte, wife and danghter "
(". .J. Mnnjran Washinjrton, D.C
M. Bailev
Dr. H. Ilvvernot
Mrs. E. J. Sonier.s Wasliin^'toii, D.C.
(i. II. Dana "
.1. P. Ilorhach and wife "
.lolin II. Patterson and wife Davton, Ohio.
Elvin Eller Mislia\vaka, Ind.
Mrs. Ilasford CliicaKo, 111.
Miss Ilasford "
;\lorriH R. Edv I'latt and wife "
Miss Hessie Piatt
A. W, I'latt
H. E. riatt
('apt. Hoht. Irvine and wife ( ialvcston, Texas.
J. M. Randall East Oraniie, N..I.
A. P. (iiirdon Cnniminsrs Maryland.
Mns. I>r. Loriii^' Cdlii nil ins, Ohio.
Mrs. W. P. Henderson
Mrs. Frank llnhbard "
N. A. Lannian "
R.E. Sheldon
T HOTEL ROUEHVAL.—Continwd.
.lames Kill)ourne Colnmlins, Ohio.
F. W. Prentice
^^'. p. lienV- Co.
TC)ROXTO I! A II LOW Ci MBBiii.ANii, 72 Y'liiige Street.
WrXDSOR Wai.tku C. I.kauy.
MOXTRKAL S. I..SHKTT,Trav'Kl'ass'Kr Ak'I tj. .1- L. St..I. Rv.. Tenii.le liiiil.rg.
■.H.' .Mr.XlLiiTHih:. Freight ami Passenger Agent. \ *'n7'.!.','',,'','j'si'!.e"t8'
I
J OR further information in reference to HOTEL
ROBERVAL or ISLAND HOUSE or for copies
of this book or railway folders apply to
T. KENNA, ALEX. HARDY,
Hotel Roberval,
Roberval, P. Q.
Gen'l Freight &, Pass. Agent,
Quebec & Lake St. John Railway, Quebec.
-OR—
S. L. SWETT.
Temple Building,
Montreal.
For the information of fishenncn we append hereto the date of the close seasons for f hing
as fixed by law in the Province of Quebec.
Cl.osi-; Si'.ASONS KOK Imsiiinc. — Sahnon fangh'ng), from 13th August to 1st l-Y-bruary ;
Ouananiche, from 15th Sept. to 1st Dec. S])eckled trout (si(i//s\ U-(im 1st Oct.
to 1st Jan. Large grey trout, hmge. &c., from 1 5tli Oct. to 1st. Dec. Pickerel, from 15th .April
to 15th Ma\-. Bass and Maskinonge, from 15th April to 15th June. VVhitcfish, from loth Nov.
to 1st Dec.
l(j^^-»
I"^^-«
-^l>ONLY RAIL ROUTEJ)^-
To the Delightful Summer Resorts North of Quebec through the Laurentides Mountains.
The Canadian Adirondaciis to Lake St. John.
Tlirout^li li^vprt'NNTraiiiKotifh way iliiily with .^lO^VAKOH PARI^OK and
NI.B<:i<]riX4J i'AKH diiriiiu Tourist K«'aNoii.
Inspected Steel Rails. Steel and Iron Bridges. Elegant Equipment of Rolling Stoch.
]"ur infurniiitiiin, folders, itc, iii)i)ly to Walter JJuyiiioiid, liiKi Wa.sliin^toii St., Boston, Thos. Cooke & Son,
2()1 Jiroadway, New York, (J. Leve, 45 J^roadway, New York, andTnket Ai;eiitsof all jjrincipal pities, and H. >[.
Stockiii^r, City Ticket Ajrent, ojjixisite St. Louis Hotel, Queliee.
ALEX. HAEDY,
Gen. Fr'ght&, Pass. Agent.
J. G. SCOTT,
Sec'y & Manager, Quebec.
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©Ke _3^^^ii^s 0^ ^te.^aae de Ceaupre aad the ^[alls of HoatraGreaci],
ON THE QUEBEC, MONTMOHENCY & CHARLEVOIX RAILWAY.
'^.X rctiirnint'' to Quebec, aiul while viewiii"' this "i;uul old cit\-, the tourist should arnuiLrc
his time (if limited) in order that he nia\' take a trip to tlie celebrated Shrine of Ste.
Anne de I^eaupre.
The miracles that have been performed at this famous Shrine, have been read of in about
every newspaper on the American continent.
Thousands of maimed and helpless people t^^o in large ])arties (called jMlf^rimafjcs) headed by
priests, to this spot every summer, in order that the\- ma\' be relieved of their sickness and
.sufferiiiL;'.
Men and women who have been cripples for \-ears have gone there, and after remaining a
few da\'s, have returned as hale and heart)- as an)' of us.
As will be seen by the accompanying sketch, hundreds who have been miraculousl)- cured
have left ^licir crutches and sticks at the altar, where, a few short hours before they could not
have stood without them, and have walked awa)' in the full pos.se.ssion of strong and healthy
limbs.
The Quebec, Montmorency and ("harlevoix Railwa)- runs five trains daily to this wonderful
place, all the trains passing at the foot of the celebrated l^'alls of Montmorency, from which
point the)- can be viewed to the best advantage in all their grandeur and beauty.
Passing Chateau Richer the passengers come in full \ iew of one of the grandest and most
imposing panoramic .scenes of the mighty old St. Lawrence River, with Mount St. Ann and Cap
Tourmente as a background.
Full information, tickets, etc., can be obtained at R. M. Stocking's General Ticket Agency,
opposite the St. Louis Motel, Quebec.
I 9
\7]H
FRANK ROSS, President E. BEAUDET and SIMON PETERS, Vicf-PresiJents.
J. G. SCOTT. SWrrtanj and Manngrr ALEX. HARDY, General Freight .ind Passenger Agent.
COIVIiVIERClAL CHAMBERS, St. Peter Street, Quebec.
S. L. SWETT. Tr,iit>llinn Pa.t.icn'V'r Adpnt T'^mplr BwUinq Vnntr^ai
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MlVtP F» »»»f»t H».iS i CO '•■ l»»li «' ». iSTJF.-
—THE—
OIJEOEC&LAKESTJOIIN
RAILWAY
ANU BRANCH LINES.
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