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":^'^^^'^i^' 'i^v'm::^^ .>s^.m^=# f- ^^^ \S II LAN D.LAKE SUPKRIOlil AND T I I '■•yjsmtr^jg^xi^: .wammmM I I*! i I / "!sm i . i '■! iTifefea^'itf^aMaiaa 5/ f -iu^diu (a,^. i. ^ A' /-2, Y THE APOSTLE ISLANDS AND LAKE SUPERIOR, " TAe shadows round the inland sen A re deepening in.'o night. Slow up the slopes of Penokee They chase the lessening light. Tired oj the long day's blinding heat, I rest my languid eye. Lake oJ the North ! where cool and sweet Thy sun et waters lie! Along the sky, in wavy lines, O'er isle and b^ach and bay. Green-belted with eternal pines The mountains stretch away; Below, the maple masses sleep Where shore with water blends; While midway on the tranquil deep. The evening light descends." V' .^TrT MILWAJKEE: CRAMER, AIKENS & CRAMER, PRINTERS. 1884. Si tl ta tr fc ai IS b( hi as th to si( an INTRDDUCTinN. TOURISTS who have been abroad liave been struck with the vigor of English manhood, and with the cheerful voices and fi..e animal spir" of the men and women who are met with throughout the British Isles. On the contrary, for- eigners have observed in this country a decided tendency in the opposite direc- tion. In fact, the "hurry and drive" incident to a rapid spread of civilized life in a new continent has produced an eager, anxious race, which works at fever heat and wears out early. We must take a lesson from our English -" cousins. If we would exhibit, on this side of the Atlantic, a race of healthy, hearty men, something must be done to banish the headaches, to quicken the torpid liver, to relieve the strain on the over- taxed brain. Seymour Haden, the well-known etcher, has recently visited this coun- try. He is a gentleman of eminence not only as an artist, but he has for years enjoyed the highest repute as a learned and successful physician. Through all his busy life he has ever evinced a love for hunting, fishing, and for all the sports of field and forest; and it is certain that his bounding health and genial age are largely due to the out-door life, the fondness for which is characteristic of his countrymen. Being satisfied in his own mind of the benefits of summer vacations and short seasons of entire rest, he has made his plans to return, bringing with him as large a party of his friends as he can, to enjoy the health-giving air and the pleasures of fly-fishing in the brooks and streams which empty into Lake Superior. Can we not take a leaf from Mr. Haden's book, and in this respect, at least, adopt the cus- toms of his people ? In England every one who can lives, by preference, out- side the towns and cities. Their love of the country is a national trait, and this is portrayed throughout much of their literature, wlilch is full 6 INTRODUCTION. of delightful descriptions of natural scenery, of the changing beauties of earth and sky, of rugged headlands lifting their peaks above the clouds, of the mists rising from some placid mountain lake, or of the simple streams basking in the sun through grassy meadows or loitering in clear, deep pools. Perhaps our busy American bankers and merchants love nature just as much, and sometimes talk about it even more; but they rarely take the time to enjoy it until cares and anxieties have taken off the edge of their appetite for healthy recreation, and it is too late to restore their wasted health. The American has never learned how to enjoy himself. It is his misfort- une to have pursued pleasure in a conventional, tiresome manner, at great expense, with a certain aflfectation of fashionable splendor. He has never, since he was a boy, been near enough to nature to get rested. Perhaps he has not had the facilities. Aside from the White Mountains and the Adiron- dacks, there are, in fact, few places in eastern North America where the fresh aroma of the primeval wilderness is still preserved; where, at the same time, accommodations are sufficiently comfortable and commodious to attract the traveler, whose happiness depends so much upon his little com- forts. It is believed, however, that a region has at length been made easily accessible to the public, which is unique in its history and traditions, supreme in its cool, salubrious atmosphere, rich in the variety and grandeur of its scenery, and unequaled in excellent accommodations. On the shores of Lake Superior are found all the requirements for those who are seeking rest, recreation and health. On the banks of its most beau- tiful bav is an immense hotel, conducted by an experienced manager, sup- plied with every modern convenience, providing a table that would tempt the most fastidious, with all that heart could desire for varied in and out door amusement. The place is found; the accommodations furnished; the way is open ! It is commonly supposed that away back in history, before the Iroquois wars, the Jesuits discovered Lake Superior. It is far from our purpose to dispute their venerable claim ; there is sufficient originality in drawing atten- tion again to the enchanted land, with its boundless resources of wildness and beauty— to the rare and secluded spots in which the glories of Gitchee Gumee are concentrated. Some years ago, Constance Fennimore Woolson wrote a series of stories for the Atlantic Monthly illustrative of early life along the shores of the lake, and the reading world is familiar with her more recent novel, "Anne," which has drawn further attention to the great inland seas. Besides this, Har- per's Magazine sent a writer and artist to the ^'New Wisconsin." Their labors INTRODUCTION. covered portions of the summers of 1881, 1882 and 1883. The readers of that magazine are familiar with the first result of that enterprise through an article entitled "Some Western Resorts," which appeared recently; and a second article is soon to be published, the title of which has been an- nounced as "The North Shore." Many years ago we went, in company with General Lewis Cass and others, to La Pointe— a spot near where the town of Ashland is now located. The General Government had decided that, in order to preserve the peace between the Siouxs and the Ojibways, it was necessary to remove the weaker race, the Siouxs (who were in danger of being exterminated), to a distant land. The object of the visit by Cass was to pay off the last indemnity due the Indians. A vast concourse of the western tribes assembled to take part in the ceremony. They came in all the glitter of savage decoration, and camped on the Apostle Islands, in distant view of the present site of the luxurious Chequamegon. We little thought then that it would ever be our privilege to be connected with the road which has enabled so many to tra- verse the wilderness with all the comforts and magnificent ease that modern railway science offers the visitor to the enchanted northern sea. It is more than a pleasure to lay before those who have not yet availed themselves of the opportunity, an account of the beauties of the Superior country, its silver mists, its marvelously clear atmosphere, its grand outlines, its blue waters, its beaches strewn with agates, amethysts, and glittering minerals, its strange traditions, its vast caves, and the magnificent line of rocky heights which enclose its waters, transcending anything on the Atlantic coast. \\\ II m O Ui lij CO CO ^be Qpostle .^slancls and baU >up enor. I. "You ask," he said, "what guide Me through trackless thickets led — Through thick-stemmed woodlands rough and wide; Or where I found the water's bed ? I found that nature faithful is To such as trust her faithfulness." ' "" ^ ' THE HISTORY of the country about Lake Superior is unlike that of any other portion of America. It has silently remained on one side, concealed from view by a vast belt of almost impenetrable forest, while the tide of civilization has moved past and beyond it. It must not be supposed, however, There is, indeed, no portion of America whose lakes and streams could tell more thrilling tales of romance and adventure than those of the " Superior " country. Originally, it was occupied by hordes of nomadic Indian tribes; but some two hundred years ago the Canadian voyageurs commenced trading in the wilderness. They were a strange, romantic, cheerful race of men, who combined a certain dash of border freedom with a peculiar cast of melan- choly sadness: a strange mingling of the traits of vagabond .ind r»nf>t wliir-Vi mo/^t> tVif»rr» fnrry^-fr. -.-.^^^^-^ 11 __ 1 j 1 ^ , ..J..,,!. .,,iivi%. liiCiii icxiiiufUo nuucia as wcii ub uravc ad- that it was not inhabited. Scenes at Bayfi:-ld, 17 Miles from Ashland. MMMMMIIill LAKE SUPERIOR, 11 venturers. They even created a quaint, sentimental literature of song, peculiar to themselves, in which were celebrated their trials, their fortunes, and, above all, their deeds of gallantry. At one time the whole south shore of Lake Superior was vocal with their sweet melodies ; and the traveler to-day occasionally hears a strain of these original compositions, which still retains its fascinating charm. The old Hfe of the missions and the legends of the fur trade have thrown a mellow flavor of adventure about the shores of the northern lakes to be found nowhere else. Among the characteristic figures at Ashland and Bayfield, seen by the present summer visitor, are the gentle Franciscan monks in cowl and gown. The little sleepy settlement on Madelaine Island was not only the centre of missionary life, but the chief rendezvous for traders. The primitive traffic has gone ; but worship is still con- ducted in Chippewa dialect by the Franciscan Father Vogt in an ancient sanctuary, on the very spot where two hundred years ago Pere Marquette preached the gospel to the aborigines. To the curious traveler familiar with their pa/ois, the few antiquated voy- ageurs now living in the village relate many a stirring tale. Stand- ing in that church doorway, the eye takes in a scene, the com- parative impressiveness of which cannot be overestimated. Here is a combination of lake and mountain scenery. One should have leisure, calmness of mind and reverent seeking, to compre- hend the whole vision. In front is the grave-yard with its tomb- stones, on which are odd inscriptions. One tells of " Basil struck by thunder;" another informs the reader that it was "dedicated to the memory of one who was shot as a token of affection by his brother," the reckless disregard of punctuation conveying a meaning doubtless quite foreign to the intention of the mourn- ing relative. A litde farther on is a decayed warehouse, once the headquarters of John Jacob Astor. Across the bay is Bay- field; and glistening in the distance is "The Chequamegon," looming up like a great casde against the background of green. 12 THE APOSTLE ISLANDS. We can almost hear the merry laugh of the children as they play on the lawn, or the murmur ot the fountains as they throw their silver spray high in air. • *••••••••• It would be impossible here to describe all the interesting features of the country; the scores of streams swarming with speckled trout ; the myriad ponds teeming with bass and pick- erel ; the fragrant forests of hemlock, oak, pine and maple, full of deer, which special legislation permits the hunter to shoot in the early part of August; the picturesque Indian villages; the unnumbered waterfalls tumbling into cool, rocky gorges in the silent woods; the extensive land-locked bay, some seventeen miles in length, affording a safe course for amateur yachting; the endless stock of legendary lore and Indian myths made familiar to the ear of every sojourner on the shores of Gitchee Gumee. It is the agreeable task of summer wanderers in this pleasant northern land, far from the heat and turmoil of the city, with its anxieties and cares, to seek each for himself that which best suits his temperament and taste. -^B8 jiUmi i M i ii "^M*-* -* ■>*^'*«*?^| /. <\ .K " ,^>~ > _»if* . •' i\ .f/.t- i. 'J t, 'j\ fli*-' v*V ,IF*'' *«;-".-. ■X5.?«f< I f' * *' as ■ the iHclf that '•th ^4-1: ij(fkt§»fm In* MlLWAUK^t VvTMO fcthOH Co ii •MJ ii miJii II. ti , UR purpose in the previous chapter has been to convey some idea of the hitherto neglected and little known attractions of Lake Superior, and of the luxurious ac- commodations provided for the tourist by the Railway Company "' at Ashland. The Wisconsin Cen- tral Railroad is not only the most direct route to the northern country, but it leads to the only place on the great lake where really first-class accommodations are offered. The railroad ride is a very pleas- ant feature in itself, passing, as it does, through the varied features of cultivated farm lands and the dense forest; threading itself, now through the finished landscape, and anon through a rocky gorge or over an iron bridge thrown across a mountain torrent. The ease-loving passenger can start either from Chicago or Mil- waukee on sleeping cars unrivaled for elegance, and be carried without change to the very border of the great lake. Many parts of Wisconsin might appropriately be named New Germany. North of Milwaukee are numerous towns where the inhabitants are almost exclusively German, One hears the clatter of slowly whirling windmills, with their quaint shingle towers, their bulging roofs, and sees the grotesque moving shadows of their numerous wings. There is the same drowsy life that Washington Irving so graphically described. There is Ill Ta Hi Cedar Lake, LAKE SUPERIOR. 16 the same pompous gravity as among the old Dutch burghers of the Hudson ; even the pipes of long ago ! The curious traveler finds many an odd character that reminds him of Rip Van Winkle. The writer himself, on one occasion, was highly edified by a peep into a local dancing school at Schleisingerville, the post-office town of Cedar Lake. The hall was large and dimly lighted, like some old Ritter-saal. A few shotguns were suspended on branching anders along the wall. The music was provided by a fiddler, who sat solitary and alone in a pulpit-hke gallery and droned forth his drowsy melodies from an antiquated instrument. But though the music was " slow," life beat high in the hearts of blue-eyed lads and lassies as they swayed from right to left. We recognized among the throng the guide of the previous afternoon, whose sturdy arms had propelled us across Cedar Lake as we trolled on its waters. He took occasion to tell us, when opportunity occurred, that, al- though we thought ourselves remarkably successful in securing a fine catch, if we would be on hand in the morning, he would show us a new spot, where we could angle to our heart's content. Cedar Lake is thirty-three miles from Milwaukee, in the heart of the German settlement. The railroad passes very near, but yet not quite in sight of, the lake. It is an exquisite body of water, frequented somewhat by camping parties, from its prox- imity to the city. It will soon become a popular resort. It can be readily reached by an hour's ride on the Central train, which leaves Milwaukee in the early morning; so that one can arrive on the ground by 8 o'clock, fish and picnic all day, and return to the city the same evening. Doubtless, before long, some enterprising spirit will erect a hotel on this favored spot; but at present there are no accommodations, except the humble cottages of the resident farmers. Fond du Lac and Oshkosh are next en route. Both are busi- ness towns of importance; and in each place, as at Ncenah, twelve \l il Roberts' Resort, Neenah, Wis. 4,1 LAKE SUPERIOfv', r«5 ^_ 17 miles further on, the Railroad CompTi^^^l^riZr, ~ the. exceedingly convenienf and a^L.ite ' "'^" '"' North of Fond du Lac, the road skirts along Lake Winn, bago, an interesting body of water as well fr. ^'"'^ ^mne- sentimental point of view Byt gllnce t he ' '"'""' "^ ' seen that the lake looks as if it^i, h! , """ " "'" ^' part of Green Bay some lilt , '™ '" ^''' ^^'^ '^ the lake and the s^^ urdingfouZ: dTh 1 T"" ''' ''^'''' dred feet above the level o TL^ n ' "°^ "" '''"'- "^i.es .ong by eighteen wide, andlr^Tihe ILT 12 • ^ mun.cat.on w,th the settlements on its banks Indian T v. renuentlyanttcipatedthrivingcommercialtntretand^ of Fond du Uc, Oshkosh, Neenah and Menasha aV , Tl on Lake Winnebago, otfer a striking illu^o 7/ r^ The General Government, in connection with what is kn„ the Fox River Improvement Company, built elpensiveH" " thr Ls^at;:::sS^i;::i:^r "^^" '-' ^-- ufacturc-s in hubs, spokes, woo^r^re rL: "T^"" mg and evening the streets are thronged wi h bu. Imon'^tr- ''' '' ' ^"" "' 'Het:: wt inl™:^ Among the thousand lakes for which Wisconsin != •• ., 7 Winnebago is the largest and most ! ^t e Inf L'""::'^' resorts of the West, Roberts', on Doty Island 4 N. ] ' " of the most delightful. The h .e is'b 1 n .1 ItZ^^^^ cottage, with spacious verandas. It is situated on ,'"'' the lake pours into the Fox River and T T "'"'" "'''"" In front is a wide gray stretch of " T ' " """' °""°°''- c giay stretch ot water snuhng n the simh-frKf 11 II I The Chain o' Lakes, Waupaca, Wis, LAKE SUPERIOR, ... 19 r tance is shown a long line of hilly shore^T^wih^^n^^lIm their robes of misty amethyst. The fishing in the lake is unusu- ally fine, black bass of great size abounding in unlimited num- bers. It IS seldom in America that one finds a summer hotel sit- uatedm such spacious grounds; and there are few places any- where complete in all respects as Roberts', with its pleasant view through the trees, its charming panorama of the lake, its shady groves, and the old house (an adjunct of the larger hotel), with Its vme-clad porch and gables, a venerable antiquity, built and occupied in pioneer days by James Duane Doty, the first Territo- rial Governor of Wisconsin. In his time, it was the scene of many an hospitable entertainment, sometimes of courtly guests and again of Indian chiefs. The "loggery" contains sixteen rooms, and is often preferred to the hotel on account of its romantic associations. In full view is the famous « treaty elm " beneath whose wide-spreading branches was concluded many an important treaty with the tribes, formerly sole occupants of the country. At Waupaca, the traveler is 130 miles from Milwaukee, and 2 IS miles from Chicago, still on the main line of the Wisconsin Central Railroad. He has reached what was but a few years ago known as the " Indian Country." Now, the farmer has usurped the Indian's place; and the country is fast being reclaimed from a state of nature. A river, navigable for canoes and rowboats, flows directly through the town, and its inter-vale has a never- wearying charm. "The tasselled maize, full of grain or clover, Far o'er the level meadow grows, And through it like a wayward rover, The noble river gently flows. Majestic elms, with trunks unshaken By all the storms an age can bring, Frail sprays whose rest the zephyrs waken, Yet lithesome with the juice of spring." 20 THE APOSTLE ISLANDS. Grand combinations, too, of the river and meadows are to be had in short drives. There are several hills of moderate height about the town, from which can be seen, so long as the season lasts, tints as tender, hues as vivid or modest, reflections as cunningly caught in the surrounding lakes, as can be found any- where. Two lakes, with high banks crowned with pleasant groves, lie at the foot of the main street. The attractive feature of the locality is the " Chain o' Lakes," two and one-half miles from the town. Linked together by deep, clear channels, are eight lakes, which present a scene of enchanting loveliness. The waters are cold and remarkably clear. Fish swarm as plentifully as they did before the shores felt the impress of the white man's foot. 1 I "{' ■ " Here the old smoked in silence their pipes, and the young To the pike and the black bass their baited lines flung ; Where the boy shaped his arrows, and where the shy maid Wove her many-hued baskets and bright wampum braid." At sunset the lakes, from a bird's-eye point of view, lie in an enchanted maze, scattered through forest and cultivated glade — a tremulous skein of wonderfully colored waters, with verdured symmetry, touched with deep rich orange, or showing glossy stretches of delicate bluish greens and grays, and smooth, dusky reaches :.,iong the shore, with indistinct headlands in the distance, where the foliage is massed in vague and shadowy forms. The greatest charm of the place lies in these views and the choice facilities for boating. There are a hundred boats on the "chain" at the service of the tourist. A trip through the lakes or down the sweeping current of Waupaca River, will afford many a dissolving view singularly rich in fascinating beauty. In Green- wood Park, on the "chain," is a good hotel, with accommoda- tions for 150 guests. At Waupaca trains stop for meals. Here, as at Abbotsford, the Railroad Company owns the eating-house, which fact is a guarantee of excellent meals. Scenes on the Route to Ashland. iii rt''i 22 THE APOSTLE ISLANDS. Beyond Stevens Point, where the road cros3e> the Wisconsin River, the Hne extends for 200 miles through p, vast forest. The train passes on as if entering a tunnel, and throughout the bal- ance of the journey the sound of the locomotive whistle strikes the clear air, dying in long, lingering echoes. Occasionally, there are dashes through exquisite groves of soft balsam firs with perfectly tapering, cone-like forms. Lumber mills are thickly scattered all along the route, their booms of brown logs glistening in the brim- ming rivers. Now and then the train passes a typical frontier village, with its row of new cabins, showing that civilization is fast claiming its own. It is not, however, until the tourist arrives at the Penokee Gap, away up in the North, where the line runs over, ragged cliffs and through deep defiles, where the streams dash angrily along over rocky precipices and through narrow gorges around the hills (where are hidden great deposits of valuable ores), that the Superior country is reached. Emerging from the majesty of the shadowy height, the train crosses Bad River seventeen times in nine miles, and sweeps from curve to curve, swiftly, ever more swiftly, past rapid and fall, over the famous iron bridge down to Ashland on the lake. A visit to Lake Superior supplies unending resources to a traveler, and confers lasting benefits, inasmuch as it lifts him above the world, into a perception and love of the refined grandeur, the chaste sublimity, the airy, refined majesty, supplemented with the polished bloom in which the splendor of this noble body of water lies. The first impression of the great Chequamegon, at Ashland, is one of unfeigned surprise. The traveler has reached the northern border of a vast forest— the largest east of the Rocky Mountains— which, until a few years ago, was impassable ; and here, by the grace of modern engineering skill, he finds him- self in a magnificent hotel, set up in the heart of the prim- eval wilderness, and that, too, but a few hours distant from Mil- ' ■*'4.j AND LAKE SUPERIOR. 28 waukee or Chicago. The contrast is greater because of the sud- denness of the vision. The train arrives about seven in the even- ing, and soon the hotel is aflame with its thousand lights ; the ear is met with strains of music aad the gentle hum of contented voices from the spacious parlors. There is an impression of ele- gahce, ease and luxury. Here we find quiet and peace; soft carpets and elaborate furnishings. Here gas, water, electric bells, a thousand feet of veranda, fountains, fire-escapes from every room (in case of dread calamity), and solicitous but unobtrusive attendants— all within a distance of a mile from clusters of Indian lodges, with their flickering camp-fires. The grand parlor of this famous hotel is the finest room of the kind in the West. It is very large, with deep windows hung with rich, heavy curtains, and carpeted with " Wilton," noiseless to the tread. Those who have visited the White Mountains will remember the old-fashioned fire-place at the Glenn House. Here the same thing has beer reproduced on a grander scale, and is a feature of the " Chequamegon." Ashland is so far north that it is cool even in July ; and the fire made in this with cordwood sends forth its hospitable blaze to welcome the traveler on the arrival of each train. The sense of rest is profound. The hotel is full, for 500 guests are occupying rooms in the house ; but there is none of the crush and turmoil of metropolitan hotels. There is an occa- sional dance, and then there comes the rush of a hund ' flying feet j but the hop is early finished, and one is lulled to ^eep by the gentle swash of the restless surf at the foot of the bluflf, a hundred feet below the noble park on which stands the grand hotel. With break of day, a vision of enchantment lies before the eye. Far down to the lake, the Chequamegon Bay stretches like a sheet of silver between the dark-green wooded heights, which array themselves by rapid turns in tints of violet and purple and cloaks of gold, as the sun touches each peak that still smokes The Hotel Dock, Ashland, Wis. LAKE SUPERIOR. 25 with the fragrant exhalations of morning; and in the distance four-and-twenty islands, forming a lovely group, float warm in the sunny, shining mists that hang about them in a faint mirage. It is difficult to explain the feeling of exhilaration which takes full possession of the nerves and senses. Perhaps it is the fresh, untamed wilderness, full of aromatic breezes; perhaps it is the symmetrical beauty of the landscape and water view. The bit of civilization about the hotel and town adds sharpness to the pleas- ant contrast. If you look from the veranda, groups of merry children, with rosy cheeks and flashing eyes, are romping on the green turf. A young lady, in a broad-brimmed hat, reading the latest novel, swings lazily in a hammock in one ot the numer- ous tents spread over the lawn. Boys, in sailor hats, move jauntily along the pier. It is, perhaps, rather early for the gentle- men to take a hand at billiards; but some, with a view of getting up an appetite for breakfast, are spinning the balls in the bowl- ing-alley. Directly across the bay, and near the center of the bold wooded rim which skirts the opposite snore, the new village of Washburn is seen nestling in among the pines, which sweep back from the water's edge to the misty blue horizon, forming the background of one of Nature's grandest landscapes. Here and there, in the distance, are sail craft lazily floating along with the wind. A swift-running steamboat is drawing towards the hotel dock to take a load of excursionists to the Apostle Islands. A barge, with slow-moving wheels and a long line of rafts in tow, crawls past the outer pier; while an occasional canoe rises and dips with the undulating waters. Before, is the broad expanse of the inland sea; behind, the dark, dense forest; and all about, the clear, bracing, stimulating air, every breath of which fills one with new life and vigor. Thus far the tourist has only taken a general survey of the situation, and caught something of the spirit of the scenes about him ; the effect will be considerably enhanced as he goes abroad through the surrounding country. 8f 5 26 THE APOSTLE ISLANDS, This, in brief, is a home for the summer. Those who row up the beautiful streams and drop hook in the limpid waters ; who steam out among the islands, where every turn of the wheel opens a new and enchanting view ; who wander among the caves formed in the sandstone by the surf of "Getchee Gumme;" who sit on the broad piazza of "The Chequamegon," and view the most gorgeous sunsets across a bay rivaling that of Naples ; who dip their cups in the pure waters of the spring, and open their chests to breathe an air balmy as that of Eden, will bless the happy chance that brought them to Nature's choicest blessing. III. " Now I am on the lake's wide shore. What a landscape lies before ! No clouds, no vapors intervene ; But the gay, the open scene, ^J^.yp'"" Does the face of Nature show -^ In all the hues of heaven's bow !" ONG excursions from Ashland are made by water, with one or two ex- ceptions, and can therefore be partici- pated in by the invalid as well as by the more robust traveler. Those who do not like the water will find, within a few moments' walk from the hotel, much to repay their trouble. There are the scattered Indian settlements, where the wigwams are clustered in artistic groups, and surrounded by bundles of neatly packed birch-bark for making canoes, and usu- ally a few of these beautiful craft may be seen in process of con- struction. Some few points can be reached by rowboats or sailing yachts from the fleet moored at the hotel pier ; notably, the fine rock-fishing grounds directly across the bay, where, at certain seasons, speckled trout swarm at the mouths of several good streams. Extended excursions are best made by the staunch steamer connected with the hotel, or by other steamboats, of which there are three or four in regular trade between Ashland, Washburn and Bayfield. Starting from Ashland at nine in the morning a tour of the bay, including stops at various points, can be made in a day, for which service a very moderate charge is made. As ■ i LU 1- o o (3 OJ O ijj I U of o _J < Q- Q 'I! LAKE SUPERIOR, 29 the boat ipidly moves out in the fairy-land, the islands are seen installed in a magnificent group as far as the eye can reach; they appear to float as on liquid silver and to glide by each other silently, as m the movements of a dance, while the boat moves on Its way; the bay seems to pause in its ceaseless motion ; the lake sleeps and dreams. Daily trips are thus made down and across the bay (seventeen miles) to Bayfield, locally known as the ''village of fountains," a snug httle hamlet wlih neat cottage homes and pretty gardens scattered up the hillside, with a magnificent prospect of the bay and islands. At nearly every house is a natural fountain, sup- plied by perennial springs having their origin in the heights overlooking the village. Here and there may be seen half- breed fishermen, whose smacks are moored at the pier or drawn upon the beach; Indians in their blankets, with good-natured faces; the gentle Franciscan monks, who move quiedy about the streets on errands of peace and mercy; and the sturdy lumbermen and men of business are characteristic figures. Bayfield is alre.Ay well known as a favorite resort. The leading hotel (The Island View House) has a reputation for its excellent accommodations, Its good table and its reasonable charges. A comprehensive view of the entire country can be had from the top of the Government Outlook, which stands on one of the lofty hills back of Bayfield. A short walk will take the visitor to the foot of the structure, and the ascent can be made in a few moments. A wonderful spec- tacle will dawn upon the vision of the beholder. The Apostle Islands, twenty-four in number, are at his feet, like so many dia- monds in the placid waters of the bay; away and beyond them to the east and north, the vast expanse of "Gitchee Gumee," the "'Big Sea Water," is spread out as far as the eye can reach; the shore of the rugged north coast, with its range of hills, is distinct- ly outlined; to the south and west the unbroken forest of hard >vood and pine, in all its primeval grandeur, whose statel) old Excursion Steamer "S. B, Barker." \l ! LAKE SUPERIOR. 31 pines, hoary with age, appear likT^l^rtoTi^eT^WcVc"^ et up when Noah is put forth to watch the animals emerging from ehUdhood's ark; the Penokee range of mountains, slty mUes distant, looms up, clearly showing ^' the gap " through which Bad River breaks. The eye can wander, checked only by the power of vision The whole presents a panorama that uUerly dwarfs our feeble efforts to describe. Across the bay lies Old Fort the site of the first settlement on Madelaine Island, one of the Apostle Group, long famous in connection with Pere Mar quette, who established a mission there in 1660. Old Fort lies opposite Chewamic lighthouse, at the entrance t'o the north chan- nel, where there is another fine prospect in every direction. Wild strawberries and blueberries grow in great profusion during the mTi'- "tT ^7 '" '^' '"^'^^'^'^ ^"^^-^^^"^ trolling-ground. Madelame Island may be reached by rowboat from Bayfield or the excursion steamer will stop on the passage from and to Ash- land, permitting several hours' visit to places of interest La Pomte IS the chief of these; it is in itself an illustrated volume The pier over which the waves dash is the same used by Astor years ago, when loading his furs for the Eastern market; the fish- ing smacks and canoes lying on the sand, -surrounded by reels of nets drymg in the sun, and the rickety, weather-beaten cottages full of the pleasant tints of age, form a delightful picture. The silent, sunny, picturesque old place is steeped in a mellow atmos- phere of age. It was founded 200 years ago by the Jesuits, and was for a long time the seat of the head office of the American Fur Company ; and as you sit down on the steps of some deserted house, fancy will recall many a story of days gone by; of the voyageurs and the dark-eyed half-breed maidens who danced upon the green sward, full of laughter ; of Indian wars and coun- cils in early years ; of monks, long since at rest, who threaded the forest on foot or in bark canoe; and of many a storm and ship- wreck, mere is still remaining in good preservation a church ill mm LAKE SUPERIOR. 33 m which service is regularly held, built by Bishop Baraga in part from the older church of Marquette, which contains many relics and curiosities; among the rest an old painting, -The Descent from the Cross," on hand-made canvas, brought there by the founder in 1669. In front lies the ancient burial ground before referred to, where rest the dead of txyo centuries. Washburn is another bright and active little city on Che- quamegon Bay, where there are extensive docks for handling lake freights. Washburn is located directly across the bay opposite Ashland and distant six miles by water. The Townsite Company has built a fine hotel, called " Hotel Washburn," which is richly fur- nished and exceedingly well kept by Davis & Barker, both experienced hotel men. The town is beautifully located on high ground overlooking the bay, and is rapidly assuming commercial importance. Daily connections are made between the trains of the Wis- consin Central Railroad at Ashland (morning and evening) and Washburn by the Central's elegant excursion steamer " S. B. Bar- ker," which lands its passengers at their destination in thirty min- utes from the time of leaving her dock at the Hotel Chequame- gon. The fine steam-yacht "Waubun" is also engaged in the same trade. Trips across the bay on these charming steamers are always safe and enjoyable, and form a delightful feature of the tourists' life. Adjacent to Washburn is Houghton Point, long a favorite picnic and camping site for parties from Ashland. Houghton is a bold promontory rising abruptly an hundred and fifty feet from the level of the bay, and has been selected as the location of a large hotel, soon to be built. A party of capitalists have the mat- ter in charge, and before another year rolls around a caravansary will be erected on this favored spot which will rival the famous r^\i rK^r,,,^ :h equaincgoa. I •« f ( Bayfield and La Pointe. LAKE SUPERIOR, 85 At Montreal River, thirty miles east of Ashland, along the coast, IS a magniticent waterfall, 120 feet high, which is well worth a visit. It can be easily reached by the steam-yachts at the service of the guests of " The Chequamegon." One of the leading fishing stations near at hand is Chewamic Point. Whitefish and trout are here taken by tons, and there are few sights more interesting than the drawing in of a pound-net (an every-day occurrence), the contents of which so completely fill the boats that the fishermen often stand knee-deep in a wriggling, squirming mass. The Government lighthouse, whose beaming light is the mariner's guide, is but a step off. The watchful keeper is always glad to see the chance visitor. Delightful trips can also be made to the magnificent rock scen- ery on the coast toward Duluth, or among the Apostle Islands. Days may be spent among these islands, camping, exploring caves, or fishing; and one can never exhaust the delightful and changing panoramic features, which in infinite variety continually pass before the eye in ever new and witching forms of beauty. Odanah— Among all the excursions mentioned as being profit- able to the sojourner at Ashland, none offers more picturesque features than the trip to Odanah. It can be reached by boat up Bad River, or made, as it was by the daughter of the writer, in company with several other ladies, by road through the forest. If the former route is taken at the proper season, the rice swamps en voyage are seen dotted with Indians tying the rice in bunches for harvesting. The method of threshing, if so it can be called, is very primitive; it consists in simply shaking the gr.iin from the' stalks into the canoe. Here, too, may be seen the long winding river with Indian lodges on the banks ; the usual complement of canoes turned up along the shore ; the great booms of logs and the crowds of sturdy drivers in blue shirts and high boots, jaunty caps and scarlet breeches ; and the Indian village itself with its Mission, its crowds of braves along the shore, and possible medi- -«^ The Outlook, Bass Island Quarry, Lone Rock, LAKE SUPERIOR. 37 cine (lance. Odanah is situated, as we have hinted, on Had River, which to this point is a navigable stream, but away up in the mountains at Penokee (lap it is a rushing, unmanageable tor- rent. Between this point and the Gap is abundant material for the artist; he will find several splendid waterfalls and rocky gor- ges. There is also an old abandoned copper- mine left by the early explorers. Aside from these excursions, agreeable mainly because of their picturesque features, there is ample oi)portunity for pisca- torial sport along the innumerable lakes and streams. Many of these are close at hand. Chequamegon Bay itself is a basin which receives the waters of a score of beautiful streams, between whose banks disport legions of speckled beauties, and there are good rock-fishing grounds directly across the Bay opposite the hotel ; while within a distance of forty miles, accessible by rail or by any of the steam or sailing yachts, are the following noted streams : Silver Creek (near by), Marengo, Trout Brook and Brunschweiller, Upper White River, Long Lake (a branch of White River), West Branch of White River, Brule River, Fish Creek, Whittlesey's Creek, Bono's Creek, Vanderventer's Creek, Sioux River, Onion River, Pike's Creek, Raspberry River, Bark Point Creek, Siscowit, Iron River, and many other streams, in almost any -^f which 150 trout is an easy day's catch. The sportsman is, however, by no means confined to trout, there being numerous lakes within easy reach which swarm with pickerel and muskalonge. Specimens of these kinds, weighing twenty-five and even thirty pounds, have often been caught. Those disposed to make extended excursions can easily reach the fine scenery of Isle Royal and the North Shore, by regular steamboat connecdon, or a party can be made up for the hotel boat for a trip to Fort William and Prince Arthur's Landing, and the great copper mines on Keweenaw Point. Ashland is not dependent on the Wisconsin Central Railroad •i LAKE SUPERIOR. 3» alone for its conn.;ction with the outer world, although that i» the best route, inasmuch as !;> this route are run through coaches, palace sleepers and superb parlors from Ashland to Chicago and Milwaukee without ch.v^e. The Chicago, St. Pai.l, Minneapolis & Oi..,ha Railway runs a branch to the place with daily trains. The Northern Pacific Railroad will probably, by the time this little pamphlet is before the public complete its line to Ashland, and make this point the eastern terminus of its hne. All the boats of the Lake Superior lines make it a regular stop- ping place also. Thus it will be seen that the Apostle Islands, Chequamegon Bay and Lake Superior oflfer to the tourist, the pleasure seekei, the angler and sportsman and the tired invalid, facilities where each may pursue the search for that he so ardently desires, with certainty of success. The story of the advantages of Ashland has not been overdrawn. In conclusion : Go where primeval forest scarce has felt The touch of ax, or heard the womhiian's cry; Go where the monks of old once humbly knelt, And lifted voice in prayer to God on high; Go where the Indian, .emnant of his race, Divested of his fierce accoutrement. Consents to work, as does the mild pale-face, Without appeal to war's arbitrament; Go where bold stands upon the lake-laved bluff, The spacious hostelry— a stately pl.-'je — Where welcome greets the guest, who ne'er enough Can praise the table's cheer or landlord's grace; * Go where the lake, the chief of all delights, Mild-swept by winds with healing on their wings, Crisp mirrors in its depths the pine-clad heights, And lulls the senses by its murmurings. t i t c i a h i r c t li u p s k 71PPENDIX. HAY FEVKR. Dr. Arthur Holbrook, a sufferer from Hay Fever, and ex-Vice President of the Hay Fever Association of the United States, has kindly written the accom- panying essay on that disease and its effectual cure by a trip to Lake Superior : The increasing prevalence of " Hay Fever " in this country, and the failure ol all treatment m relieving the sufferings of its victims, is a fact generally recognized. Over fifty thousand families in the United States are dreading the coming of August. The subject, therefore, is one of general interest. The country is flooded with flaming advertisements promising relief and cure. Sufferers, in their desperation, grasp at every straw, and thus nostrums and impostors are multiplying. In order to prefect the afflicted, and to correctly inform them concerning the nature and treatment of their trouble, a society known as «*The United States Hay Fever Association" was formed ai Bethlehem, N. H., in 1874. It meets annually, with representatives from nearly every State andTerritoiy in the Union. It has employed every available means within its power to dis- cover a remedy, and has published each year the results of its labors. There IS no known remedy for the disease, except a flight to an " exempt " region, and among the few regions east of the Rocky Mountains, none are more highly recommended.by the Association than the Lake Superior countr)'. But It must be remembered this is a vast and varied territory, and all portions are not alike exempt, and places once exempt may become objectionable, and, in fact, may have already become unbearable to hay fever subjects. The safety of a place must be determined by trial. '• No one can predict of any region what will be its effect upon a subject of this disease. Even in the most favorable localities in the exempt regions, the noise and whirls of city life, the dingy smoke from furnaces and forges, the dust and filth from unsprinkled and unkept streets, the emanation from decaying substances, the propagation of weeds and noxious forms of vegetation, etc., etc., will fre- quently produce intense and lasting paroxysms. Therefore, the Chequamegon District offers extra attractions for the hay fever refugees, because — 1. It is most favorably located in the heart of the exempt regions. 2. It is easily, quickly and cheaply reached. 3. It is free from sand, dust, smoke, reflections, etc. 4. It is quiet or lively as may be desired, with choice of water or woods, game or fish, baiting or bowling, solitude or company. 5. It is a place where all hay fever moods can be satisfied. It is well known that the moods of the hay-feverites are as variable as the wind, and 42 APPENDIX. here, among the variety of attractions offered, the health-seeker can find com- fort and pleasure adapted to any mood. An experience of many successive years, embracing every available point in the Lake Su^ ^or region, enables the writer to speak understandingly of that section, and whether at the immense " Chequamegon caravansary," with its menu fit for a king, or among the glens and glades of the grand old forest, with its happy companions and the rough camp tare, it has ever been his good fortune to find pleasure, rest and health. His waking hours and dreams at home are burdened with the recollection of the happy hours passed there, and filled with plans for coming seasons. Hay fever, hay cold, hay asthma, autumnal catarrh and various other names are applied to a peculiar affection which appears annually about the 20th of August, and usually lasts until after frost comes. Rose cold, peach cold, June cold, July cold, summer catarrh and other names are applied to the same or a similar affection, which appears earlier in the season, but is not characterized by the regularity, specific symptoms, extreme severity and natural limit of duration of the August form. It is not intended, in the present paper, to more than notice some of the prominent features of " Hay Fever," which may possibly enable those who are not familiar with its character, to form some idea of its magnitude, history and depressing influences. The term " Hay Fever" is a misnomer, and does not express its origin, or suggest a definition of its character. The distinctions between the two forms of the disease mentioned above must be borne in mind. The term " Hav Fever" in the present paper refers only to the later or August form. The disease was first noticed and described by an English author in 1819, and its appearance at the season of hay-making in that country, or the irritating effect of hay upon the disease, soon gave it the popular title it now possesses. The English form corresponds more directly with the earlier American, and the application of the term to the later form undoubtedly arose from a confusion of symptoms. In this country the hay has been cured and stored weeks before the disease makes its appearance, and many persons afflicted with •' Hay J'ever " are not affected in any manner by hay. Thus the name is inappropriate, and is only accepted from universal usage. It will undoubt- edly continue in use until the disease is more generally understood. Hay Fever is a constitutional disturbance, and the local symptoms which periodically manifest themselves are induced and developed by irritating or exciting substances and surroundings. It is a peculiar condition of the sys- tem which is not yet perfectly understood, and which renders the subject " sensitive " to the lightest disturbing influences. In a similar manner, some people are sensitive to the lightest influence of certain foods, such as straw- berries, shell-fish, melons, eggs, buckwheat, chestnuts and various other articles; or to the odor of certain flowers, fruits, plants and various vege- tables; or to the presence of feathers, heat, confined air, and other matters. The presence of these articles in the neighborhood can be immediately detected by the sensitive, and are unnatural pnd unbearable to their senses. Why this peculiar condition exists in certain individuals, and does not in others, is not for us to decide; but the fact is apparent to all that whatever may be the cause, it is a constitutional disorder, or a hyper-sensitive condi- tion, and lasts for all time. The symptoms of distress in a hay-fever sensitive are produced by influ- ences similar to the aljove, which are capable of disturbing the natural functions in an extraordinary degree. This peculiar sensitiveness, therefore. APPENDIX. 43 does not depend upon race, sex, or climate, but may exist anywhere or every- where, out IS only manifested when brought in contact with certain forms ot matter or agencies which have the power of controlling its appearance. Ihus many people residing outside these disturbing influences frequently become victims to the trouble by change of residence. Nearly all sufferers tind immediate relief by leaving their homes and fleeing to some locality where the sources of disturbance do not exist. Hay fever has been carefully studied by the ablest men of the medical profession. In fact, it has affected some of the leading physicians and think- ers, and the world has the benefit of their experiences and of the very best thought which can be applied to it. The conclusions of all, however, are the same, and the healing art is powerless to relieve the sufferer. The only remedy now known '\% flight. There are various valuable works upon the subject, and associations are formed for mutual benefit, but as yet there has not been found any specific or general treatment which will permit the sensitive to remain near the influences which occasion it and enjoy any degree of health or comfort. The annual report for 1878, of the Committee on Scientific Facts for the United States Hay P^ver Association, was written by an eminent medical practitioner in Connecticut and contains the following closing advice: " To invigorate the nervous system, by all possible means, preceding the ''To seek relief by change of locality, if possible, a few days before the advent of the paroxysm. "To keep the skin in active, healthy, working order, by warm baths at bed-time and cold sponging with active rubbing in the morning. Better occasional Turkish or Russian Baths. ' '• To regulate the bowels and kidneys. "To live mostly for a while preceding the critical time, upon a milk diet supplemented by vegetables and little or no meat, once daily, fruit in the morning." These reports are made by persons best qualified to j udge, who are suffer- ers and whose business it is to relieve suffering and the advice given is founded upon the best knowledge of the disease from experience and obser- vation. For the benefit of those who are not familiar with the disease a general description of the symptoms are given: About the 20th of August an unusual tenderness about the eves and nose is noticed, and frequently the first symptom is a fit of excessive sneezing; this is followed by a free watery discharge from the nose and eyes, tickling in the throat and palate, a sense of suffocation and a general feeling of misery. The eyes are blinded with water, the nose requires constant attention and frequently the passages become completf;ty closed for days or weeks at a time, and the patient is obliged to breathe continually through the mouth; loss of taste and smell, inability to concentrate thought or transact business, and often followed by a lingering cough or an attack of asthma. These symptoms usually appear in the order named and continue with more or less severity until the appearance of a heavy frost, and do not always then dis- appear, but frequently last in some form long into the winter months. The rest of the year the patient is quite free from the trouble, but many are unusually sensitive to dust and certain odors at all times. Of course, a disease so universal has been " doctored to perfection," and thousands continue experimenting, but " old stagers " who have tried every- thing, have accepted the fact of its incurabieness. Many remedies which 44 APPENDIX. were supposed to have a good effect one year, have none at all another year, and the same remedies applied to other cases only aggravate the trouble. The aggravating causes must be removed, or the patient will only experi- ence a battle between nature and human skill, with the same odds which always favor nature. Therefore the onlv remedy which has proved reliable is flight to an atmos- phere which is calculated to " tone up " the general system, and which does not contain irritating or disturbing forces. There are but few places comparatively, east of the Rocky Mountains, which meet these requirements, and some of the places which have afforded refuge to hay-fever sensitives in the past, are now worthless as a safe resort on account of the introduction of the sources of the disturbance. It is generally known that smoke, ashes, dust and cinders aggravate the trouble. The special forms of vegetation which produce the paroxysm are Roman wormwood, rag-weed, bitter-sweet, flowering-corn, and various other ema- nations. It must not be inferred, from the foregoing description and enumeration, that the actual causes of the complaint have been discovered, or that the special action of any irritating agent is definitely understood, for it is well known that the whole subject is unsettled, and probably will be for all time. For instance, a substance may produce the most violent paroxysms in one person, and not produce any effect in another; and again, there may be only one source, or there may be innumerable sources; or the same source may produce varying results, at different times. Hay Fever, therefore, is an idiosyncrasy; a complaint peculiar to persons, climate and seasons. Thousands of sufferers, and the enlightened portions of the medical profession, ha-'e recognized it as such, and the only treatment, consistent with intelligence and experience, is to overcome or modify the disease by flight. If a suitable refuge is reached before the time of attack arrives^ the symptoms will not appear at all; and if it is reached after an attack has commenced, the symptoms will disappear in a few hours. The Lake Superior region offers the only place of refuge in the West, and it is not surpassed as a reliable refuge by any other section of this country. This lake is the largest body of fresh water on the globe; its surface is nearly seven hundred feet above the level of the sea; an immense forest stretches two hundred miles south of it; a lofty range of mountainous hills protects the southern shore, and a better refuge from the influences which cause hay-fever cannot be imagined. The atmosphere there is so pure and bracing that it has already become known the world over. The great objection to this region heretofore has been the tedious manner of reaching it, and a lack of accommodations when reached. But thanks to the enterprise of a few far-seeing people, it is no longer a weari- some journey or an unsuitable place to take a family. The Wisconsin Central Railway has opened a thoroughfare through the wilderness, and placed one of the most charming places for rest and resort within a few hoars ride of the western metropolis. Passengers landed in Ashland are surprised to find the evidence of progress which greets them — an immense hotel with modern arrangements and conven- iences — a delightful resort for fashion or a practical refuge for weary sufferers. Si o V ai V fa W sa! an mj MINBRHIi gPRINS3. Wisconsin is :elebrated for its mineral and medicinal springs. There are several, at Ashland noted for their curative properties. The best of these is owned by the Hotel Company. It contains in solution the various ingredients that have made the waters of Waukesha so famous. Mr. Bode, the well known chemist, has made a careful analysis, and certifies that the principal constituents are the same as those of Waukesha, except that the medicinal properties are in very much greater pro- portion. ^ The curative properties will, without doubt, make it one of the most famous springs on this contineht. Appended is the analysis of the water: Office of Gustavus Bode, Chemist, T,, . . .^ , Milwaukee, Feb. 14, 1882. Ihis IS to certify that, having made a careful analysis of the waters from Ashland Spring, I find that one gallon of the same contains : Total quantity of solid substance, 43.6875 grains, consisting of— Chloride of Sodium, Sulphate of Soda, Bi-carbonate of Soda, Bi-carbonate of Lime, Bi-carbonate of Magnesia, - Bi-carbonate of Proto-oxide of Iron, Alumina, - . . . Silica, - - . . Organic Matter, 0.2808 Grains, i.ooo^ " 35275 18.269s " 18.1233 " 0.0292 " 0.0877 " 1.2870 " 1.0822 " This water belongs to the same class of water of which the so-well-known Waukesha waters are good representatives; it is, however, much stronger in salts than any of them, and by far the strongest of this class of the many analyzed by me. The effect cannot be different; it may, on account of the greater strength, be more marked and quicker. Respectfully yours, GUSTAVUS BODE, Analytical Chemist. This spring is located vqry near "The Chequamegon," and no charge is made for the use of the water, which is served free to guests at every meal. ■wr-'---' ^■- \ t i IJ ^t,^- '"^S^zsst- 0/ . -v>-^!S^- 'V.^*' _^^'? ;^^f6#^ .>* ,rf»ii»J«!()toas-~' .^w^ •*-*v« uatOta ^'■'"nasW; -*5ir' s MAIL B«eit^J \ : rT^»! s^'-r • ,' -i — 7sp~^f—3 „;i«^tH««l.< &ti S* :» I- III m i . 'i "Im^'i^ImM