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LONDON: LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN & GREEN, PATERNOSTER-ROW, RICHARD NICHOLS, WAKEFIELD. MDCCCXXVI. iitV'-''^ «9043 TO THOMAS WILLIAM COKE, Esq. MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT FOR THE COUNTY OF NORFOLK, ^C. ^C. ifC. My Dear Sir, I feel a peculiar gruiification in being per.nitted to dedicate to you this portion of my Travels in a country, where I passed the happiest period of my life. My most ardent friendships were formed amongst the Americans, a jjtople whose rights and liberties, whose prosperity and happiness you have ever promoted from your earliest youth, and who Justly consider you the steadiest as ivell , as the most zealous of their friends. VUl. DEDICATION. I To the Americans I am not only indebted for numerous instances of hospitality , hut also for the honor of your acquaintance — an acquaintance which in the course of years has ripened into friendship, and has fixed my attachment to the House of Holkham, It would be impossible for me on such an occa- sion, not to express the high sense of obligation I entertain, for the honor you have done me in twice visiting my humble roof, and for this last act of your kindness, in allowing me to dedi- cate a work on America to the warmest of her advocates. I have the honor to suhscnbe myself. My Dear Sir, Your obliged, and very faithful friend, JOHN MAUDE. MOOR-HOUSE, 1826, ■^ I PREFACE. The following Tour is a faithful Copy of a Gentle- man's Journal, written to assist his memory, respecting Che Events of one of the most interesting of the nume- rous Expeditions he made through various parts of the United States of America, during a residence of seven years in that Country, at intervals from 1793 to 1803. Europeans, who have visited America, and published their Travels, are very numerous ; their Works volu- minous, embellished with maps and engravings, piquant anecdotes, political disquisitions, statistical tables, com- mercial and agricultural information ; and in a word, nothing omitted which Author or Publisher thought likely to prove agreeable to the Public. There is, however, evidently wanting in the greater part of these Works, that more correct information which their Authoi's might have attained from longer Residence vn, and a less hasty passage through, the CoVintry. if! ii. PREFACE. The Travellei*s, for the most part, were conveyed from place to place in the public Stages, and returned to Europe after short Visits without having had much, if any, personal intercourse with the resident Gentry ; consequently their Narratives betray but little acquaint- ance with the best Society. The author of this Tour had better opportimities than most of his Countrymen of knowing both America and the Americans. He traversed the old thirteen United States from the District of Maine to Charles- ton, in South Carolina. With Jefferson's " Notes oti Virginia" in his hand, he crossed the series of Moun- tains which compose the Blue Ridgb^ and visited those objects, some of which Jefferson so vividly des- cribes as *' the most sublime of Nature^s Works" — the Sweet Springs : — the Natural Bridge : — the Berkley Springs: — Madison's Cave: — and the Junction of the Shenandoah with the Patowmac. This last Scene alone, Jefferson says, is a "Scene worth a Voyage across the Atlantic." At various times and seasons he traversed Virginia and Maryland; New York and the Eastern States; and when resident at Boston, Rhode Island, New York, Philadelphia, Washington, Richmond, Norfolk, Charles- ton, and more especially Baltimore, associated with the Inhabitants upon a fuuting the most Hattering to a Stranger. Numerous Journals, written by one whose early life was spent in Ti'avel, and now clothed in handsome Bindings have for many years quietly occupied their PREKACU. iU. places on the well-filled and splendid shelves of the Moor-House Library. After the lapse of one-fourth of a Century, one of these Volumes has been with- drawn from its repose, and without transcribing, has been printed at the press of his native Town. The Author, having with much pleasure observed, that a superior and distinguished class of English Tra- vellers have recently turned their attention from "/a belle France'* and "classic Italy" to the hitherto neglected shores of North America, has ventured to publish this " Journal of a visit to the Falls of Niagara," in the hope that it may induce others of high rank to visit a country, through which they cannot journey without great and lasting benefit to both Nations. As yet the English and the Anglo-Americans are in a manner unknown to each other. As yet there has not been any " reciprocity " of feeling. Two unfortunate wars have alienated the afiections of the child from the parent; and the Author of this Book must avow, which he does with much pain, but without the most distant intention of being personal, that the class of English Travellers have hitherto had too great a pro- portion of individuals among them, who by their arro- gant bearing and illiberal remarks, have fostered and kept alive a spirit of crimination and recrimination, which the friendly intercourse this Work is intended to promote, would, most certainly soften and allay. The Americans, it is hoped, will accept the Book as a testimonial of the Author's good will towards a people by whom he was received more as a Relative and a Brother, than as a Stranger; and among whom he formed friendships that have been the solace of his life, and, to this moment, gladden his existence. fv. PRBFACB. He would now beg to draw the attention of his Coun- trymen as well as their footsteps to the most interest- ing Tour in all North America. In its whole line it is historic ground. Unhappily, Hostilities between two Nations, whom to see other than friends, is as painful as to witness contention between Parent and Child, has signalized almost the whole line of this Excursion. The Banks of the Hudson — of the Niagara : — the Lakes Erie and Ontario :— the course of the St. Lawrence : — and the waters of Lake Champlain, have been the Scenes of Actions to which Englishmen and Americans must revert with equal regret. Fortunately, however, the courage and generosity displayed on each side in these unnatural, and thank God ! unprofitable contentions, have taught mutual respect ; and it is to be hoped that the better feeling, which is now happily cultivated, will produce that Alliance of good will and good offices, which, more than any other, deserves the name of Holy ; and when maintained with the zeal and intrepidity so character- istic of each Nation, will bid defiance to any league hereafter formed to interrupt or defeat their union and prosperity* It is a proud consideration for Britain, to know that her descendants, more than those of any other Nation, distinguish themselves by their manliness of character, their love of liberty, the liberality of their laws and institutions, and their improvements in arts, sciences and agriculture : and that whilst their formidable Navies and commercial Flags, visit every Sea, and wave in every Port; the English Language is of all Languages the most widely spread. PRBFACB. y. Taking it for granted, that Gray was right in assert- ing, that a word written on the spot, is worth a cart- load of recollections ; and that Dr. Johnson is good authority when he says, that a traveller who relates what he has himself seen, will be read with interest j the Author, in the following Journal, has confined himself to memoranda penciled on the spot and writteu down on the evening of each day. ' ■ ^^^: >I .1 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP THE PiATBS. PLATI. i'AOC. Engraved Title, with a Vignette View of the Falls of Niagara, as seen iVom a Cavern. 1. 7. Entrance to the Highlands, and View up the River. On the right hand is the Mountain called St. An- thony's Nose ; on the left, the Three Mountains ; the nearest to the Spectator is the Bear Mountain; the second, Fort Montgomery ; the third. Fort Clinton, with Mr. Ducet's residence. The course of the River is between Fort Montgomery and Fort Clinton ; the low Land in front of the Sloop is a small Island. 9. 8. Island on the Hudson, on which the Author landed. 9> 109. View of the middle and lower Fall of the Genesee, taken from the summit of the banks. In this View the Upper Cascade is called the Middle Fall, and has ninety-six feet in descent. It was under the Arch of this Fall that the Author penetrated. The lower Fall forms two Cascades, which, together, have fifty-four feet descent. 4. 134. View of the Falls of Niagara, with the Rapids, and Goat Island, from the Canada side of the River. 8, 147. View of Niagara, with Goat Island and the Rapids, from the United States side. 6. 156. The Great Horse-Shoe Fall of Niagara, with Table Rock, as seen from below. 7. 208. The Falls of Montmorenci, as seen from the Summer- House, built by General Haldimand. 8. 276. View on the Hudson, looking down the River; the Mountain in front is St. Anthony's Nose, with Fort Clinton on the left and Fort Montgomery on the right. This View is reversed in Plate I. • . JOURNAL. New York, Saturday, June 2l8t, 1800. 6i p. M. Embarked on board the Sloop Sally, Captain Peter Donnelly, seventy tons, four hands, viz. the Captain, his brother Andrew, John, who was on board Admiral De Winter's Ship on the memorable 11th October, 1797, and Nicholas, a free black acting as steward, cook, cabin-boy, &c. had purchased his own freedom and that of his wife, hoping soon to effect that of his children ; performs well on the violin, and is very smart. Twenty-four pas- sengers, not births for more than half. Passage two dollars each. Board and, liquors, as may happen. Principal passengers. General Alleser, of New York, violent democrat; Caul, of B il 4 HUDSON RIVER. Seratoga, ditto ; Mr. Mousley, varm aristocrat and federalist; Mr. Putnam, Mr. Williams, Lieutenant Kipp, all three federalists ; the youth Octavius, son of Timothy Pickering, Esq. late Secretary of State, under the care of Messrs. Williams and Putnam, both relations of Mr. Pickering ; Jonas, of Montreal, Grocer : of Michillimackinac; a drunken, Scotch Presbyterian Minister; Mr. Sanger, &c. &c. four raft-men, and a man and his wife from Staten Island. 7 p. M. Unmoored ; fine S. E. breeze ; ten knots. 8 p. M. Breeze slackened. Midnight; cast anchor twenty-five miles from New York, entrance of Tappan Bay, not wind to stem the ebb. In tlTe night, severe storm of thunder, lightning and rain. Not finding a birth unoccupied, or scarcely one that did not con- tain two persons, the Captain gave me his own state room.* *« * Hudson River — rises in a mountainous Country, between the lakes Ontario and Champlain; uhole length two hundred and fifty miles. Albany to Lake George sixty-five miles, navigable for Battoaux, exclusive of two portages of half a mile each. Tide flows a few miles above Albnny, which is one hundred and sixty miles from New York ; navigable for Sloops of eighty tons to Albany, and for Ships to Hudson. Sixty miles above New York water becomes fresh. Morse, 2nd Edition, publithed 1797. t a p p a n ba y. Sunday, June 22(1. 5 5 A. M. Turned out, got una-cr weigh: Tappan Bay,* or Sea, five miles wide and ten long; extremities marked by two remarkable high bluflfs ;t scarcely a breath of air ; fog on the higli banks of the bay ; heavy rain ; fell calm when opposite toTarry-Town.J * Tappan Sea — ten miles long and four wide. On the south side fine quarries of reddish free-stuuc, used for buildings and grave-stones, and area source of great wealth to the proprietors. Steep-Rocks, a curious ledge of perpendicular shaley rocks, which form the west bank of the Hudson River, with some in- terruptions, for twelve miles from the Tappan Sea, to within eleven miles of New York. Some of these ledges are from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet high. As you pass down the river, from the Tappan Sea to those rocks, the prospect on every side is enchanting. On the north of the Tappan Sea a fine broad Bay opens to view, skirted with high hills; on the south the River lies under the eye as far as it distinguishes objects; on the west are the Steep-Rocks; and on the casta fine cultivated country. Morsf. Morse describes the Tappan Sea to be wider than Haverstraw- Bay, which, in fact, is not the case, nor is it so represented in any modern map. lie says Ilaverstraw-Bay is three miles wide: — it is more; I was informed it was six miles. Truth, 'tis said, cannot lie; but I say that it does lie, generally between extremes. Tappan, four miles from the west bank of the Hudson. Major Andre, adjutant-general of the British army, suffered here as a spy, October 2d, 1780. Morie. ■\ I recognized in the Bluff ('Tellei's-point) separating Tappan from Haverslraw-bay, the original of a sketch done by Blajor Andr*?, with pen and ink, the night before his capture. X Tarry-Town, a considerable village, thirty miles north of \ew ^'ork; here Major Andr"' was taken. Morse. 6 HAVERSTRAW BAY. 10 a. m. Sun broke out and light airs from the north; beat slowly through the Tappanto Haver- straw-Bay,* six miles wide, ten long. Stakes in the river for the convenience of taking Shad. Sturgeons constantly leaping out of the water. Shewn the field from whence the three youths first descried Major Andr6 : and the large white- wood tree under which he was examined .f 2 p. M. Cast anchor; took boat and landed at the ferry-house opposite to Mount Pleasant, thirty-six miles from New York ; river here four miles wide. Climbed the mountains to visit a lake on its opposite side; large, considerably above the level of the Hudson; pike, yellow bass, and sun-fish. Strawberries on its banks. Much chat with Betsy, who, born at the foot of the mountain and apparently secluded from the world, said she had been a great traveller, " once to the meeting and twice to the mill." 7 p. M. Got under weigh ; light airs from the north ; progress trifling. Came to an anchor in * Haverstraw-Bay, thirty-eight miles above New York; ten mileslongf and three wide; spreads south of Stoney-point. Morte. f The White-wood, or Tulip-tree, was destroyed by Iightnin|f on the 31st of July, 1801, the very day that the news arrived at Tarry-Town of General Arnold's death; a most singular coinci- dence. This tree was one hundred and eleven feet in heigiit; the trunk twenty-six feet in circumference at the base; the diameter of its branches was one hundred and six feet. Bait. Fed. Gattttefor Aug. 25, 1801. )m the 3aver- kkes in Shad, water, youths white- •t landed easant, ;re four visit a ierably yellow banks. le foot d from iveller, lill." om the :hor in fork; ten t. Morse. lightning arrived at ar coinci- i^^lit; the diameter tali. Fed. THE HIGHLANDS. the Horse-race, foot of St. Anthony's Nose; river half a mile wide, channel from forty to fifty fathoms wide three miles above Peekskill,* and forty-eight from New York ; turned in at 11 p. m. i .1 U < Monday, June 23d. - ; , . Turned out at four a. m. Sketched a view of Fort Clinton, Fort Montgomery, St. Antho- ny's Nose, the Bear Mountain and surrounding scenery; highly romantic and beautiful, being the entrance of the Highlands ; to the south very extensive and pleasing prospect down the river through Haverstraw to Tappan Bay ; dense fog on the lower part of Fort Clinton, Fort Montgomery and St. Anthony's ; the site of Fort Clinton is now occupied by the handsome dwelling-house of Mr. Ducet, a french gentle- man ; dreary situation and without society.^ * March, 1777, a quantity of stores were destroyed at Peeks* kill by a British DetachmeDt of fire hundred men commanded by Colonel Bird. f St. Anthony's Nose; from which to Fort Montgomery on the opposite side, a large boom and chain was extended in the late war, which cost not less than .^70,000 sterling. It was partly destroyed and partly carried away by General Sir Henry Clinton, in October, 1777. Morse. Fort Montgomery; north side Popelop's Creek, on which are some Iron Works six'miles south of West Point, and fifty- two north of New York. Fort in ruins, was reduced by the British in October, 1777. Morse. On the 6th of October, 1777, three thousand men, conveyed tl m 8 THE HIGH LAN D S. 5 a.m. Took boat and landed on a small Island: filled a cask with excellent water, picked up some drift wood, and got a pitcher of new milk for breakfast, 8 A. M. Returned and explored the Island ; strange serpentine form: rocks and marsh; much scrub wood ; four kinds of huckleberries ; the swamp huckleberry, a tall shrub like the alder, an excellent fruit just beginning to ripen; the other still green ; could only gather a few strawberries, the season being past. Laurel and Prickly Pear in blossom; the flower of the first, white M'ith red spots, shaped like the con- volvulus; that of the Prickly Pear, yellow and in appearance like the bloom of the melon and cucumber. Gathered the root of Sarsaparilla and a branch of Spice wood, this latter is a great sweetener of the blood and a pleasant flavor ; flushed a pair of partridges or pheasants ; though these birds more resemble Grouse than Partridge or Pheasant, I may here observe that the animals of America differ materially from those of the Old Continent, yet for want of more by some Sliips of War under Commodore Hotham, landed at Verplank-Point, forty miles from New York; of these, two thousand one hundred were transported without artillery across the Hudson to Stoney-Point, and from hence proceeded by a very difficult pass over the Donderberg to the attack of Fort Mont* gomery, and Fort Clinton, which were bothstonnad at tlievame moment! \ ? THE HIGHLANDS. appropriate designations, they frequently receive the names of such European animals as they most resemble; but these names are by no means settled ; for instance, what are known as Partridges in one part of the Country are called Quails in another, and these birds will alight in Trees, or on Paling. The Hares have white flesh. I have been informed that some Sporting Gen- tlemen have imported the English Red Fox as affording better diversion than the native Grey; and that although the Red Fox is the smaller animal, it is the more ferocious, and is eating-* out the Grey one, in. the same manner that the Grey, or common Brown Norway Rat has eaten out the native Black Rat of England. The Black Rat was, however, a smaller animal than the Grey. Mr. Bullock, of Liverpool, had one of the ohl English Black Rats in his Mu- seum, the only one I ever saw. At the cottage observed a child about three years of age, whose foot having been much burnt had been bound up close to the leg, and now adhered to it ; he walked on his heel. 9 a. m. Got under weigh ; head wind. 1 p. M. L Mills, are superior to most in construction and situation, and very profit- able ; four pairs of stones ; fifty-five miles from New York ; the Miller takes down a cargo of flour and returns with wheat. fl 1 1 10 WEST POINT. 3 P. M. Landed at West- Point,* the Gibraltar of America ; centre of the Highlands ; fifty- eight miles from New York. Yet, who would have ever heard of West- Point but for the defection of Arnold, and the melancholy death of Major Andr6! Lieutenant Kipp being personally acquaint- ed with the Commandant Captain Stille, and Messrs. Williams and Putnam bearing letters to him, we were politely received, and permitted to range over this impregnable fortress. Though very sultry, we could not resist the temptation of climbing up to the ruins of Fort Putnam ; where * West- Point, sixty miles north of New York. It is situated in the midst of the Hij^rhlands, and is stronj^ly fortified by nature as well as art. Tiic principal fort is situated on a point of land formed by a sudden bend of the River, and commands it, for a considerable distance, above and below. Fort Putnam 'v? sitijated a little further I)ack, on an eminence which overlooks v')i- other Fort, and commands a great extent of the River. On the opposite side of the River, the ruins of old Fort Constitution, with some barracks going to decay. This Portress is called the Gibraltar of America, as, by reason of the rocky ridges rising one behind another, it is incapable of being invested by less than 20,000 men. It was taken by the British, and afterwards re-taken by storm, in a very gallant manner, by General Wayne. Benedict Arnold, to whom the important charge of this fort was committed, designed to have surrendered it up to the British; but Providence disap- pointed the treasonable design by the most simple means. Major Andre, a most accomplished and gallant Officer, was taken, tried and executed as a spy, and Arnold escaped. Thus the British exchanged one of their best Officers for one of the worst Men in the American Armv. Morte. THE HIGHLANDS. 11 at a vast height above the Hiuison, over- looked much of the Hisjhlands,* and still more of the majestic river, whicJi here deviates from its usual direct course from north to south, and in no [)lace more so than at West Point, washing two sides of the triangle, so that a wind fair for approaching it, is a-head when passing it, consequently no enemy's vessel could escape destruction, if hardy enough to attempt the passage. The view from our present situation * Hipflilanda, a mountainous tract of country on the banks of the Hudson River, between forty and sixty miles North of New York. The (lassage on the Uiver through these Highlands, for the distance of about eighteen miles, is grand and romantic in a high degree. The opening ticems to have been formed on purpose for the passage of this noble River. In these Highlands are situated the important and famous Fortresses of West- Point, Fort Montgomery and Stoney-Point. The most noted Peaks are, as you ascend the River, Thunder Hill, 8t. Anthony's Nose, Sugar Loaf, Butter Hill, and )3reak Neck Hill. Ader passing the two last, the Country opens delightfully, and presents to the eye the pleasant Villages of New Windsor and Newburgh. These moun- tains abound with iron ore. Morse, The passage through the Highlands, which is sixteen or eigh- teen miles, affords a wild romantic scene. In this narrow pass, on each side of which the mountains lower to a great height, the wind , if there be any, is collected and compressed, and blows continually as through a bellows; vessels in passing through it are often obliged to lower their sails. The bed of the River, which is deep and smooth to an astonishing distance through a rocky hilly country, and even through ridges of some of the highest mountains in the United States, must, undoubtedly, have been produced by some mighty convulsion in nature. IS THE II lOH LANDS. was moHt sublime and tnagniticent. I do not recollect one that I enjoyed so much ; it was historic ground — iiad been trodden by Wash- ington, was his favorite post, and his own selection ! The scenery is, I think, iiowever, unequal to one of the views near Windermere. I allude to the view looking towards Langdale Pikes, Hard Knot, and Wry Nose. There were at present in garrison only one company of Artillery and Engineers. The Bar- racks are on a tolerably level plain of several acres, on which were feeding a few horses and about twenty cows. * ■ " ' While we were ranging over the garrison, the Captain had taken boat and gone upon a foraging expedition to the opposite shore, from whence he brought off a quarter of veal, a pitcher of milk, with some butter and cheese. Lieutenant Kipp found here three or four of his company, Avho, when disbanded on the 15th Inst, entered into the service of the Artillery and Engineers. Told somn, ch at- )m It- ir- ry te- ted nd !0- ed ics ■ka rs. cd of i»y as Mr. Williams, Mr. Putnam and Octaviiis set out for Boston, Lieutenant Kipp left us yester- day for Utica. Yesterday enclosed Mr. Isaacs' letter to the Mayor of Albany. In the afternoon of the same dav Mr. P. S. Van Rensselaer left his card. This morning left card at Mr. Van Rensse- laer's, who was gone to Schenactady. Dined at Lewis's Table-d'hote ; present, Ge- neral Campbell, Mr. Morgan, &c. Inspection of the militia ; no order ; not sized ; ill drilled. Muskets and rifles; duck guns, pop guns, and bludgeons. Tea at Mr. Ellison's. Showers in the morning ; sultry ; heavy thun- der gust. Saturday, Jun':; 28th. Walked south of the town, passed the Slaugh- ter-house, the largest that 1 had ever seen ; ten or twelve butchers at work, had already flayed thirtycarcasesof sheep, lambs and calves, many others were in the condemned hole ; excellent situation out of town open to every wind, over a creek near the Hudson; blood and entrails ik! n A I. B A N Y. thrown into the creek, where they afibrded a fine feast to a drove of hogs. Proceeded to General Schuyler's (father-in-law to Mr. P. S. Van Rensselaer, the Lieutenant Governor, here better known by the title of the Patron ;) plea- sant situation near the town ; climbed the heights in the rear of his house ; fine view of the Hudson and surrounding country ; to the N. N. E. the prospect was shut in by the mountain opposite Saratoga, to the East of the River. Followed a small stream to a deserted Mill, and from thence to a small but highly picturesque cas- cade. This is one of the most broken countries that I ever was in ; deep though narrow gullies, cut it up in every direction ; few of them can be passed even on foot, without much difficulty ; on horseback, the passage is impracticable with- out artificial aid. These gullies are evidently formed by the heavy rains of this country, whose torrents soon work a channel in a soil, appa- rently of sand and soft loam ; this part of the country may be termed the Barrens, principally producing the Scrub Pitch-Pine (Scotch Fir;) these pines were much wounded by a small grub, or caterpillar ; some I found actively employed in eating their way into the young wood, and others in their nymph state. The grass was not cut, except in one field, and that was in cock ; the Maize was not so forward as I had seen it a ALBANY. 23 fortnight ago on York Island ; the potatoes were about four inches out of the ground. Car- rots we had this day to dinner for the first time. Young potatoes and cherries have not yet ap- peared in Albany. ■ ">' • " v.? . .n. - Sunday, June 29th. Saint Peter's ; Reverend T. Ellison. Dined at home with General Campbell, Mr. Morgan, Mr. Carpentier, Mr. Cockrane, Mr. Hayward Mr. Ledgard, Mr. Bnwers and - from Charlstown. Walked to the cascade at Rensse- laer's Mills, two miles opposite side of the river, superior to the cascade visited yesterday ; it is of a very different character to Lowdore-Falls near Keswick-Lake, but I think would be ge- nerally more admired. A saw mill erected on the verge of the fall greatly improves its effect. In Winter and Spring this Cascade is visible from Albany ; and from thence, Albany is seen in its best point of view, being little more than a mile from it in a straight line. it >■■■ Cold North West Wind ; a fire this day would not have been unpleasant. - i .■ ; • Monday, June 30th. " Crossed the river to Bath, a town lately laid 24 ALBANY. out by the Patron; it at preitent consists of about thirty houses, but it is very doubtful if its furtlier progress will be so rapid. The medici- nal spring, and the baths, at one time so much wanted, are now shut up and neglected ; yet, as a watering-place, it was to have rivalled Balls- town, and as a trading-place, Lansingburg and Troy. A country girl, returning from market, (who crossed the ferry at the same time,) spoke Dutch and English with equal fluency, and I may add with equal pertness. Climbed the heights east of Bath ; fine view up tlie river, and of Troy. Returned by the Lower or Greenbush-Ferry. Never saw the wild grape and wild strawberry vines in greater profusion ; in the coppice near the river, scarcely a tree that did not support one of the former ; or a field that was not over^run by the latter. This ramble was a very wild and a very pleasant one ; the air bracing and refrestiing, and highly perfumed with the fragrance of wild roses and red cloven White clover is a native of this country ; the red is, I believe, an exotic, though it is now to be found in a wild state all over this part of the country, even in the woods. The Birds I noticed were Boblincolns, Brownthrashers, and Robins. Afternoon. Long walk to the west of the town ; fell in with the stream visited on Satur- day ; being scanty of urater, followed its roman- ALIVAN Y. 26 tic course by taking advantage of the moflt elevated parts of its roeky channel ; the cliffs on each hand nearly approached the perpendicular, and were generally from about seventy to one hundred and twenty feet, or perhaps more, in height. My progress was at length stopped by the cascade already described. The water being very clear and cool, I took advantage of where the rock was formed by the waters into a natu- ral bason, to bathe.. The neighbourhood very busy hay making. Tuesday, July 1st. •U', ' . . » Market ; beef six and a quarter cents to nine cents per lb. average price about five to six cents, in t^e fall of the year four cents. No fish, save sturgeon, vulgarly called Albany beef, and that soon bought up ; it is sold by the junk and skinned on the spot, which skin is a fine feast for the hogs which regularly attend the Fish market. The Americans brag much of their happy rid- dance from British tyranny and taxation. A word on this subject. The highest tax paid by any individual in this city, whilst under the British ciovernraent, was eight dollars per annum ; this same Gentleman now pays, to the peace establishment of his country, one hundred and sixty dollars per annum, just twenty times A L U A N V. as much! In 1787, the first year of the adoption of the present federal Constitution, a house whicii then let in Albany for fifteen pounds per annum, now rents for seventy pounds New York Currency, which is as thirty-seven dollars and fifty cents, to one hundred and seventy- five dollars. Beef then sold for three cents, now six to nine cents ; butter nine cents, now twenty cents the year round ; eggs twenty for twelve cents and a half, now twelve for twelve cents and a half; sturgeon for one-third less; wheat seventy-five cents, now one hundred and fifty cents per bushel ; wine one dollar per gallon, now two and three dollars. Accompanied Mr. How- ard and to Wendell's Falls (Mills) the same which I yesterday visited ; this morning we also explored the part below the Cascade so as to arrive at the foot of the fall ; the pool, or bason, formed in this place, appears well adapted for bathing. Evening. Caldwell's manufactory ; followed the stream on which the same is erected ; climbed heights west of the Patron's Villa. Had I the kind devil-upon-two-sticks to befriend me, (for I know not how otherwise a stranger can get acquainted with the routine of their domestic economy, so sacred from profanation do they keep their household Lares !) I would, ere 1 bid adieu to this place, offer some obser- A L H A N Y. vations on tlio manners of the Albanians, espe- cially of the old Dutch inhabitants. However \e*. us hear what says the Duke de Liancourt. " L'Hospitalite pour les Strangers ne parait pas " ^tre la qualit6 dominante des citoyens d'Al- " bany ; le pen que nous en avons vu est triste, " lourd, vit chez lui avec une femrne quelque- ** fois belle, souvent gauche, t\ laquelle il ne dit " pas trente paroles par jour, quoiquil I'appelle, " my dear/" If these " Lourds," when living, have not the heart to entertain their friends, they are at least generous to profusion, when dead ; when their eye cannot see, when their tongue cannot chide, and when their heart cannot grieve for tiie wasjte and extravagance of the " merry mourners,** v/ho, to supply the less of their friend, liberate and adopt his wine ; whO; as they consign the one to darkness, drav/ fortli *\e other to light ; and who, as good and honest executors vislang to do justice to the parties, take care that when the vault receives the one, it resigns the other* thus, no man gets drunk with his own wine; thus, the saddec-t are the most joyfol; thus, though the host is not drunk, he is dead : fhough the guests are not dead, they are drunk ; and thus no scandal to say the host and guests are dead-drunk. If I have any thing more to say of Albany, 'tis that it is beyond the latitude of E 28 ALBANY. cherries, and that the Citizens of the Country drive waggons only ; despising carts, their two horses harnessed chariot fashion. Morse, in 1797, speaks of the extreme defici- ency of good Water in Albany, and that the Inhabitants were about to introduce water from a fine spring five miles west of the City. This fine spring water is yet without the gates of the City, where, on the 1st of July, . "^00, I saw it playing like a fountain before the door of the Manor- House of the Patron, his Excellency the Lieutenant Governor. As for being obliged to use the dirty Water of the River, I will beg leave to observe to Mr. Morse, that a very great pro- portion of the City do not use the river water, which said river water is far from being dirty j rather remarkable for its purity, being a pleasant wholesome beverage. Great part of the City is supplied with water from a well in the main street ; but the best water is from a pump to the Westward of the Episcopal Church; it is a water that my palate cannot find any fault with, nor my eyes perceive in it those animalcules Kalm speaks of j neither could I discover them in the well water. Wednesday, July 2d. 4i a. m. Started in the Stage for Utica; passed SCHENECTADY. 29 Miss Jay, the Governor's daughter, in the public stage waggon ; passed General Oothout driving his own waggon. 7^ A. M. Schenectady,* (Indian Name, signify- ing End-of-the-Woods ) sixteen miles ; Brown- all's and Beal's Inn ; breakfast — loin of veal, ham, strawberries, cheese, coffee, tea, tarts, pre- served apples, &c. &c. Drove some miles through rich and fertile Flats on the banks of the Mohawk, worth one hundred and twenty-five dollars and upwards per acre ; nineteen miles. Boats poling up the Rapids, some difficulty in getting over them ; water low ; boats draw about two feet. Noon. Dine at Warren-Bush, or Tripe-Hill, thirty-three miles. 5 p. M. Canajoharee, (Indian Name, signify- ing the Boiling Pot,) fifty-five miles. Mr. Elias Kane, fellow passenger, introduced me here to his brother Archibald, who has a well * Schenectady ; one hundred and fifity to two hundred houses, on the decline. Union College incorporated in 1797; thirty- •even students; four classes; first languages, eight students; second, History and Belles Lettres, twenty students; third, Mathematics, six students; fourth, Philosophy, three students. Funds and Stock 43,422 dollars and 60 cents, and 1604 Acres of Land; Library, 1,000 volumes. Expenseof Education, including Board, &c. less than 100 dollars. Morie. There were eight hundred Indian Warriors in Schenectady when Albany was first settled; three hundred of whom lived in a space now occupied by a single farm. Morse. 30 CANAJOHAREE. furnished Store, and carries on a very extensive business. Archibald has been nearly five years in partnership with his brother James, settled in Albany, who have in that time made a clear profit of fifty thousand dollars each ; two other brothers are settled in New York, and one at Fort Anne, near Lake George. A. and J. Kane took, in the course of last Fall and Winter, thirty-four thousand bushels of Wheat, which were bought on an average at one dollar and fifty cents per bushel, fifty-one thousand dollars, and sold at New York for one dollar and ninety-three and three quarters cents, sixty-five thousand eight hundred and seventy-five dollars. They took, also, in Potash two thousand five hundred barrels, worth on an average, twenty-five dollars per barrel, sixty- two thousand five hundred dollars. So that in these two ready money articles alone, they turned over upwards of one hundred and twenty thousand dollars. A large family is no burthen in America ; the prosperity of the K -'s is owing, in a great measure, to their number ; it affords them an opportunity of playing into each others hands. Mr Archibald Kane kindly insisted on my passing the evening and taking a bud at his house, to which invitation I readily yielded. Wiiile we were engaged with a bottle of Claret, INDIAN CASTLE. 31 my servant was jockeying for a horse ; the bar- gain was soon made, and I paid down the money first demanded, sixty-two dollars and fifty cents. Scrub Pine and Oak barrens from Albany to Schenectady ; then rich Flats on the Mohawk ; Red and Ground Squirrels ; Yellow and Black Birds, Robins, Crows, a Sea-Gull and Wild Ducks. Very cold Morning; pleasant day. Walked a few miles, by getting start whilst the horses were changing. Thursday, July 3d. Mr. A. Kane had breakfast for us at 5^ a. m. 6i A. M. Started, Mr. K. and self, on horse- y3 2k. I had brought saddles and bridles with Id from New York, and had taken my place in the Stage no further than Canajoharee, having some expectation that I should buy a Horse there ; my servant went on in the stage. Road along the banks of the Mohawk. Morning very foggy; passed Stage whilst breakfasting at Hud- son's Indian Castle,* sixty-seven miles. Fall-Hill, seventy-three miles, very steep ; this declivity in * This was the principal Seat of the Mohawk Indians; abounds with Apple Trees of their planting, from which is made Cider of an excellent quality. This was the favorite residence of Brandt, the noted Indian Chief. Here are the remains of a British Fort, built during the French War. Morse. 88 UTICA. the ground makes the Little-Falls of the Mo- hawk, which interruption in the Navigation is obviated by a Canal.* Noon. German-Flats, Aldridge's Tavern, eighty miles ; here found the Stage again which bad repassed us. Dined with the passengers. No better Land than these Flats ; worth sixty dollars per acre ; produce Wheat thirty bushels : and Maize seventy-five bushels per acre. 5 p. M. Proceeded ; new Road very bad ; the Stage wisely took the North side of the River. 8 p. M. Utica (Fort Schuyler) ninety-six miles. Schwartz's Hotel, excellent house, miserably kept. Built by fioon and Lincklaen, (agents for the Holland Company,) the proprietors of a considerable number of the adjoining building lots ; those East of these are the property of the Bleeker Family, on which the principal part of the present town is built — built too on short leases of fourteen years, after which the houses become the property of the owners of the soil, to the certain loss and probable ruin of the present Residents. Utica is in the Township of Whitestown, and contains about sixty houses. No genteel family * This Canal is three quarters of a mile in length, and was completed in 1795. Morse. WHITESTOWN. 33 save Colonel Walker's, and he resides at a small distance east of the Town.* The great Genesee Road turns off at this place. An Act has lately passed for making it a Turnpike Road to Geneva and Canadarqua, a distance of one hundred miles and upwards. The expense is estimated at one thousand dol- lars per mile j the road to be four rods in width. The Inhabitants of Utica subscribed to finish the first mile ; they formed twenty Shares of fifty dollars each ; these Shares they afterwards sold to Colonel Walker and Mr. Post, for forty-four cents the dollar, who have finished the first mile : thirty miles is expected to be finished before the Winter sets in. Bridge here over the Mohawk, the River narrow, clear, and shallow j no fish; seven boats at the Wharf; heard a bullfrog; groves of sugar maple, a tree very common here. Paid thirty dollars for a horse, which Lewis had bought before ray arrival. Warm day. 1 Friday, July 4th. Noon ; mounted our horses j passed Inman's. 1 p. M. Arrived at Whitestown ; one hundred miles J White's Tavern; bad house; introduced to * fn 1790 there were but three small huts here— in 1796 thirty-seven houses. Morse. 34 ROME. Mr. Fitzpatrick. About forty houses j genteel neighbourhood j excellent land j has produced, per acre, ninety bushels of marketable shelled Corn, (maize) exclusive of inferior or Hog-Corn, and of Wheat, about thirty-five bushels : three acres in the town sold, in one lot, four years ago, for three hundred and thirty-two dollars and fifty cents.* Observed some handsome Sugar Orchards ; introduced by Kane to Mr. and Mrs. Piatt, with whom took tea ; Mr. P. a pleasant sensible young man, a correspondent of my friend Har- per, member of Congress for South Carolina. Mrs. P. was a Miss Livingston, from Pough- keepsie. Saw a dwarf of eighteen years of age, * The compact part of this new and flourishing town (Whites- town) lies ou one beautiful street about a mile in length, orna- mented with trees. Water brought from the neighbouring hills in pipes. Soil remarkably good. Nine acres of Wheat in one field yielded, on an average, forty-one butihels of Wheat of sixty pounds each, an acre ; this is no uncommon crop. This town and its neighbourhood has been settled with remarkable rapidity. All that district comprehended between the Oneida Reservaiion, and the German Flats, and which is now divided into the townships of Whitestown, Paris and Westmoreland, was known a few years since by the name of Whitestown, and no longer ago than 1785 contained two families only, those of Hugh White, and Moses Fort, Esquires. In 1796 there were, within the same limits, six parishes ; three full regiments of Militia, and one corps of Light Horse; in the whole 7,639 inhabitante, of whom 1,190 were qualified electors. Morse. ROME. 35 not three feet in height. Very warm day, espe- cially from 5 to 7 p. m. Some mosquitoes. Saturday, July 5th. Started 5^ a. m. Woods ; few Settlements. • 8 A. Bi. Rome ; (Fort Stanwix) White's Tavern, one hundred and twelve miles. Settled within six years; forty houses; situated midway be- tween the heads of navigation of the Mohawk* and Wood-Creek, on the Canal uniting those waters. Canal nearly two miles in length ; two locks, one at each end ; cost seventy-five thou- sand dollars ; lock dues from two to four dol- lars agreeable to the load ; much less expense and trouble than attended the portage, yet boatuien much dissatisfied. August 1st, Capt. Williamson informed me, that these lock dues were far from being so moderate as here men- tioned ; — that every bushel of wheat paid ten cents ; of salt, twelve and a half cents j and a barrel of flour, fifty cents. Visited the Canal in its whole lengt!> ; water very low in the Mohawk and Wood-Creek ; has sensibly decreased since the first settlement of the Country, which causes this navigation to be- * The Moliawk rises twenty miles to tlie north of the Fort; ami eight miles from Black River, a water of Lake Ontario. Momr. F m m i; 1 !;>! ■ij "? .16 WO OD-CREEK. come more and more tedious and laborious, iih* somuch that it is expected to he neglected as soon as the Turnpike Ruad is finisher! from Utica to Geneva and Canadarqua. Paid also a visit to Fort Stanwix and Blockhouse. Tlie Mohawk is not here above ten or fifteen yards across, and two or three feet deep. Wood- Creek is not above six, seven, or eight feet in width at the liead of navigation, and from twelve to eighteen inches in depth. As the boats draw two feet of water, they, during the present scar- city require every now and then a lock-full from the Canal, to assist in ascen ■■ 88 MILITARY TOWNSHIPS. 7a.m. Indian Settlement of Canaseraga, on Canaseraga Creek, one hundred and thirty-nine miles ; not numerous, perhaps twenty families j dress as the Whites, and many speak a little English; the Oneidas preserve their ancient costume, 7^ A. M. Chittinengo Creek, (me hundred and forty-one miles. 8 a.m. Sayles's Tavern at Deep Spring, in Manlius Township, one hundred and forty- three miles. Had now entered upon the Mili- tary Townships, which the State of New York had granted to the Officers and Soldiers, who had served in their line during the war. Each Soldier had a patent made out for six hundred acres. These patents were soon bought up by the speculators, who very rarely gave more than eight dollars, or half a joe, for each patent of six hundred acres, now selling from three to six dollars per acre ! 'Tis true the Soldiers sohl their patents many times over — perhaps once a week. Congress, by Act of the 16th of September, 1776, did resolve that a Bounty of Land should be given to the Continental Array, viz. : — Acres. Private and Non-Commissioned Officer. . 100 An Ensign 150 Lieutenant , 200 Major 400 MILITARY TOWNSHIPS. 39 ;,'. I • > ■. Acre*. Captain 300 Lieutcitant-Coloncl 450 Colonel 500 Ami by an Act of Tith of August, 1730, — Brigadier-General 850 Major-General 1 100 The State of New York undertaking to pro- vide for her own Citizens, serving in the Army of the United States, passed an Act on the 27th of March, 1783, which granted to them a quan- tity of Land tive-fold in addition to the grant of Congress ; making their proportion as follows : — Acres. Private and Non-Commissioned Officer, . . 600 An Ensign 900 Lieutenant 1200 Captain 1800 Major 2400 Lieutenant-Colonel 2700 Colonel 3000 Brigadier-General 5100 Major-General 6600 In 1788, the current price for a Soldiers right was eight dollars ; in 1792, they had risen to thirty ; they are now, even those in a wild, unimproved state, worth from three to five dollars per acre. 40 U£E1> MFK I N O. m ; ;, t Sayles gave us a good breakfaHt ; settled here six years ago ; gave three dollars per acre. Visited the Deep Spring ; great curiosity ; situated some feet below the general surface of the earth, in a cavity formed like a tunnel, probably by the Spring itself; it re-enters the earth at the bottom of the tunnel ; the Spring being about midway down, comes out with great violence ; is well tasted ; surrounded with fine large Beech and other Trees, — their trunks fully covered with the carved initials of visitors' names ; excellent place for a Bath, Spring- house, and Summer-house. 11a.m. Proceeded; much cleared land; soil excellent, — almost wholly in Wheat and Grass; as not more Corn (Maize) and Oats raised than necessary for family use. Crops appear even superior to those on the Schenec- tady and German Flats ; perfectly clean, — no weed or intermixture of other grain ; they reckon here thirty or thirty-two bushels per acre, or thirty-five or thirty-seven, if the ground was clear of stumps, and less shajled by sur- rounding woods. As another instance of the goodness and fertility of the soil, these ciops of Wheat are put into the ground, immediately after the brush-wood and timber are burnt and cleared off, and the harrow has passed once or twice over the field. The plough is seldom if ever I A O R I C D I. T U II G. 4t used, either for Wheat or for laying the ground down in Grass ; and this is genoral'y done after the first crop of Wheat, as pjrazing ami meadow ground is much wanted. The Hay crops are also heavy, from two to three tons per acre. The Wheat of this part of the country bears the highest price in the New York market, seUing for four-pence, eight-pence, and a shil- ling (four cents, eight cents, and twelve and a half cents) i>er bushel more than the North River Wheat, which is reckoned the next besf Grass Lands are laid down with Timothy anr' Red Clover Seeds; White Clover is a nati-'e of the country, and greatly abounds here. The Woods are almost entirely Beech and Sugar Maple; also Uickeries, Butter-nut, and other species of Walnut , 3ass, (the American name for Lime or Linden) Tulip-tree, or White- wood, or Magnolia, Elm, Poplar or Aspen, and Oak. Ground covered with the vines of Wild Strawberries. Met a boy, with a Wood- chuck or Ground-hog — a hog in miniature. Met a man, with a string of small Trout. Kane killed two Garter and one Black Snake; saw Milk Snake dead on the road. Kane has sworn never to forgive the Snake ^ mitting the Devil to take its form on a memorable oc- casion, and is therefore determi^ sd to pass no opportimity of «• bruising th-: set-pent'' s heady" and that too with " /lis heel.' *'';;]> 42 ONONDAGA. . This part of the country is notoriously infested with Snakes, especially with Rattlesnakes. Hogs hunt for and pursue Rattlesnakes with eagerness and avidity, and eat them as greedily. One hundred and forty-seven miles Limestone Creek ; one hundred and tifty-one miles But- terraar Creek; Blooming Vale, one hundred and fifty-three miles ; entered the Onondaga Reservation. The four Creeks at one hundred and thirty-nine, one hundred and forty-one, one hundred and forty seven, and one himdred and fifty one miles, are Waters of the Oneida Lake, into which they fall in one united stream ; the confluence of the three last is at one and the same point. 2j^ P.M. Descended iu.D the Onondaga Hol- low, to Wheeler's Tavern, (late Tyler's) one hundred and fifty-five miles, on Onondaga Creek. This old Indian Settlement and ten miles square, the State reserved and secured to the Onondagas ; they since |)nrchased it of them for an old song, and sold it in lots by auction from two dollars and fifty cents to five dollars per acre. Saw traces of other Indian Settlements in the course of this morning's ride. Were now only six miles from the great Salt Springs, the property of the State, situated at the junction of the Onondaga Creek with the SALT SPRINGS. 43 Salt Lake. Permission is given to any indi- vidual to make Salt, on condition of paying four cents for every bushel of Salt he makes.* The water of these Springs is considerably more impregnated with Salt than Sea-water; one hundred gallons will produce two bushels of Salt, fifty-six lbs. to the bushel, which is one-sixth Salt, agreeable to measure, or one- eighth agreeable to weight, allowing the gallon to weigh nine pounds, or one-eighth more than fresh water. As I suspect that these experiments were made with brine from the strongest Spring, and at the most favourable season, I conclude the average produce will be one of Salt for twelve of Water. Salt from Sea-water is about one for thirty ; five bushels of Salt makes one bar- rel, and fifty thousand barrels (1 believe my informer ought to have said bushels instead of * There are many Salt Springs at the head and round about this Lake, which is a beautiful sheet of brackish water, of about six miles long and two broad. About three hundred yards from tiie head of the Lake, the Salt Springs issue from tlie foot of a steep bcnk thirty feet high, whose waters are said to be twice as salt as those of the Ocean. Here are twelve kettles, of forty gallons each, constantly kept boiling, and make at the rate of twenty bushels a day of beautiful small white salt. I suppose there is sufficient water in one of the wells (springs) as would supply one hundred kettles. Two hundred cord of wood is consumed in six weeks. Patrick Campbell, March, 1792. G I w 44 SALT SPRINGS. lip' barrels) are supposed tt> be annnally made at these Works, which at four cents per bushel, yield a revenue to the State of ten thousand dollars per annum. Twelve thousand bushels •were exported to Upper Canada. Jedidiah Sanger and Co. are the principal manufacturers ; they employ thirty-seven kettles of one hundr«^d gallons each, which quantity is converted into Salt in eight hours ; they can make, therefore, forty-four barrels in twenty-four hours. The whole number of workmen do not exceed one hundred and fifty ; they receive one-fourth of the Salt made, and have wood and kettles found them. The wood is delivered at the kettles for one dollar to one dollar and twenty- five cents per cord. The manufacturers are not allowed to sell Salt higher than sixty-five cents per bushel, or about three dollars per barrel. Salt is now very low, and for cash may be bought for two dollars per barrel. By the above account twelve kettles, of forty gallons each, produce forty-four bushels of Salt in twenty- four hours, which is at the rate of one bushel of Salt to twenty-four gallons of capacity; or, al- lowing the water is converted into Salt in eight hours, it takes seventy-two gallons of water to make one bushel of Salt. But by a statement which I procured, thirty-seven kettles of one hundred gallons each, produced two hundred 1 ,1 SA LT 8PUI NGS. 45 and twenty bushels of Salt in twenty-four hours, which is at the rate of one bushel of Salt to about seventeen gallons of capucity, so as to take only fifty gallons of water to prDduce a bushel of Salt. This difference in our statements pro- ceeds probably from two causes ; the first may be attributed to the springs being of different strengths and that most Salt is produced in the hottest weather ; the second cause I attribute to the difierent size and formation of the kettles : the forty gallon kettles, were, I have little doubt, deep pot-ash kettles; whilst the one hundred gallon kettles were, in fact, shallow pans. It is also more than probable that the forty gallon kettles did not convert the water into salt in so short a tin.e as eight hours. - < " 4 P.M. Proceeded; country open; high ridges ; well watered ; fertile ; o le hundred and sixty-three miles ; quit the Or ondaga Reserva- tion, and enter Marce'lus Township, which, five years ago, was totally in wood — now many thousand acres of wheat. Patrick Campbell, who travelled through this country in March, 1792, mentions that the whole distance from the Onondaga Hollow to Cayuga was in forest; that in this place he met with on\y one house and two new erected huts. He further mentions that he never saw so many Maple or Sugar Trees, as in this district. 'Ill 46 08TI SCU LAKE. ;■ fJ? 7 P. M. Rice's Tavern ; one hundred and sixty-five miles. New house a few hundred yards east of old one ; well supplied with water, brought to the house and farm-yard in pipes ; constantly running. Rice's is situate near a Creek, the outlet of the Ostisco Lake, one of the head waters of the Salt Lake, or Onondaga Lake ; this Lake empties into the Seneca River. Dined at 9^ p. m. Not so sultry as three last days — refreshing breeze moderating the heat of the.sun. . ;. ;,;, < .,-,. i' i -w.!. • .- ;>i:r I- 11, 1 Monday, July 7th. 6 A. M. Departed ; country much cleared, as last twenty miles ; one hundred and seventy miles. Gross the outlet of Skaneateles Lake, a water of Seneca River. . *, 7| A. M. Leonard's Tavern ; one hundred and seventy-two miles: neat, attentive. Aurelius Township ; land worth three to five dollars in wood, and fourteen or fifteen when cleared and improved. 94 A.M. Proceeded; one hundred and se- venty-seven miles. Fall in with the old Genesee Road at a small Settlement on the outlet of Owasco Lake, a water of Seneca River ; one hundred and eighty miles. Separated from Kane, he going to Aurora, twelve miles further. CAYUGA. 47 Land now gravelly, consequently covered prin- cipally with Oak. , u / . = li P.M. Cayuga;* Harris's Tavern; one hundred and eighty-six miles. Finding that there were no Oats to be had, that the Hay was half a mile from the stable, and that Mrs. H. had no eggs to her bacon, I ordered my horses to the ferry, first giving them a little rest and grass. Cayuga has risen from the woods since two years, — contains fourteen houses inhabited, though not all finished, and fourteen building ; amongst these, one on the top of the Hill, first intended for an Inn, now designed for a Court-house. This town is not very healthy : the body of water is to the S.W. •the worst possible aspect. ' = . 3 p. M. Embarked in the ferry-boat ; made sail with wind on starboard bow, to wit, a North-wester; obliged to tack for fear of ruaning foul of the New Bridge. This Bridge will be a mile and quarter in leugth; the longest in America — perhaps in the world ! Yet five years ago the Indians possessed the shores of this Lake, embosomed in almost impenetrable woods ! The breadth of the Bridge is twenty- * Cayuga Bridge was ^Dished on the 4tli of September, 1800. It is a mile and a quarter in length ; admits three waggons abreast; cost 150,000 dollars; built by the Manhattan Company, and took eighteen months in building. Troy Netvspaper. 48 O WASCO LAK E. two feet within the railing ; the bends are twenty-five feet apart ; the Bridge is more than three parts finished- -was begun fourteen months ago, and is supposed will be passable in four months more : the cost is estimated at thirty thousand dollars. The Proprietors are some adventurous spirits in New York: in a few years they will receive cent per cent for their money. In February last, from fifty to one hundred teams passed this Ferry in a day, and upwards of ten thousand bushels of wheat in a week. The Lake at the Ferry has six, eight, and twelve feet water, and twenty feet of mud and soft ground — the water so clear, that I could see the bottom the whole passage ; is forty miles long and four at the widest, where the water has not yet been fathomed, and never freezes : both ends of the Lake freeze sufficiently strong to admit the passage of waggons and sleighs on the ice ; well stocked with fish, as Bass, — (this is a favourite word with the Americans ; they not only call trees by this name, but five or six distinct kinds of fish) Cat-fish, Eels, Pickerels, &c. &c. Cat- fish have been taken thirty pounds and up- wards, reckoned the finest fish in the Lake. Were an hour performing the passage ; pleasing and extensive prospect ; the mountains beyond its upper extremity, a direction in which the OWASCO LAKE. 49 Lake itself extends thirty-eight miles. The entrance of the Seneca River, about a mile in the opposite direction ; and its exit at the northern termination of the Lake, are its most interesting features. One hundred and eighty-nine miles. Bridge over Seneca River ; above and near the bridge, a grist and a saw mill ; at the foot of the Rapids, the water clear as crystal — rages like a mountain torrent; light and steep banks, covered with wood to the water's edge, chiefly Hemlocks, (a species of Pine) : the whole sce- nery highly romantic. The River is from fifty to eighty yards in width : a portage here of half a mile. Passed through much Oak timber. 4i p. M. Ghoram's Tavern, one hundred and ninety-three miles ; on the banks of the River. Dined on venison, killed last night, a mile from hence ; well supplied with fish ; drank the river water — clear and good, but too warm. ' 6 p. M. Proceeded; pestered by a Doctor, determined to know who and what, from whence and where bound? — He had more than American curiosity and perseverance. Flushed both Paitridges and Quails — Quails said not to be natives of this country — ^keep pace with the Settlements — unknown to the Indians be- fore the arrival of the Europeans — never seen in the Genesee till within these two years ; met One hundred and ;i: a man with fine large eel. 60 GENEVA. ninety-eight miles. Enter the Genesee, here divided from Junius Township, r', 7,. • •/ 8 p. M. Geneva ; head of Seneca Lake ; Powell's Hotel — large and well kept; opened within seven months after the foundation was laid. Two hundred miles. Very scorching day; thermometer 91® — yesterday was at 90**. ^ Tuesday, July 8th. . ' ;' ,; Presented Mr. Ellison's and Mr. Ramsay's introductory letters to John Johnstone, Esq. and Mr. Caton's to Captain Williamson. Present Residents at the Hotel are. Captain Williamson, Mr. Johnstone, Mr. Carr, and Mr. Calais, of Georgetown, Maryland; Mr. Scott, and Mr. Beekman : in addition to those at dinner, were, Judge Atwater and Mr. Ghoram, of Canadar- qua; Mr. Hallet and Mr. Rees, late of Phila- delphia, now of Geneva. — Very sultry. Noon, a severe thundergust; strange effect on the Lake; for ten or fifteen minutes the water assumed a variety of colours ; on this shore, a beautiful bright green, as if highly tinged with copperas, divided from the dark purple hue of the opposite shore, by white streaks. . { ,,< Wednesday, July 9th. Kane joined us at breakfast, staid dinner. CAYUGA. 51 and proceeded to Cauadarqua in tlie waggon. Day sultry — Evening) severe thundergust. I >v' • f-'^ ' t*"* t i. ■ i<, f, i.:^ Thursday, July 10th. , Mr. Carr wishing to see the Cayuga Bridge, made a party : Captaui Williamson, Mr. John- stone and Mr. Carr ; set out 4 a. m. 7a.m. Tavern, twelve miles ; breakfast. At Cayuga, met a party of Onondaga Indians going to Buffaloe Creek — twelve persons, including Squaws and Papouses — ill dressed — two only looked well — mostly dark brown hair — one rifle — ^heavy loads carried by the Squaws — com- plexion not red, but as an European would probably become by the same exposure to the sun and weather ; saw a young bear — tame and playful. On our return, turned off at twelve miles, to visit the outlet of Seneca Lake ; here found a small encampment of Indians, much finer looking people than those seen at Cayuga; had a fire, but no hut ; Squaws surrounded the fire ; men at a small distance. Thermometer 92® ; gale from W. in night, ^^ii^un .mi >^ : Friday, July 11th. "^ ^^.i .; . Day sultry; pleasant evening; ride out on the Bath Road. Last nine days as warm as I H 52 AGRICULTURE. ever experienced in America, (that is, when not 8liut up in large towns, but as much exposed to the air as in Geneva) save tliat the nights were cooler than on the sea-coast. Captain Wil- liamson never before experienced such a spell of warm weather in the Genesee. Saturday, July 12th. I . !.». mil Evening, ride out six miles on the Grand Sodus Road ; pass Indian Castle and clearances ; excellent land ; fine farms ; Hay principally got in; Wheat turning brown ; land in wood worth about six dollars per acre. Farm of one hun- dred and fifty acres, which cost two hundred and fifty dollars, sold last year to the amount of one thousand two hundred dollars in cyder, from orchards planted by the Indians ; upwards of three tons of red clover has been gathered per acre, the stalks four feet six inches to five feet six inches long. Captain Williamson gave me a stalk of Red Clover, which I measured by placing my foot on one end, and, without stooping, putting the flower bulb into my mouth. The Timber is Beech, Sugar Maple, Hick- ories, Butter-nut, Tulip or White-wood, Bass, and Oak. In the Winter, the Sugar-tree and the Bass are felled as fodder for cattle, which will greedily eat the greater part of the smaller AGRICULTURE. 53 branches, i. o. as thick as a man's wrist. — Cool, pleasant, bracing weather. i r 1 • Sunday, July 13th. Evening, ride as yesterday ; tea at Mr. and Mrs. MuUender's, from the neighbourhood of Morpeth, where Mr. M. was an Innkeeper, and failed. Knowing Captain Williamson, he came out to the Genesee, who gave him thirty acres of Land, on which he lives happily and comfortably; has six children, one girl well married in the neighbourhood — are a neat, in- dustrious, and worthy family. — ^Weather as yesterday. Monday, July 14th. Morning, bathe in the Lake ; clear gravel ; shelves quick. Evening, ride S. W. of Geneva, three or four miles ; many thriving farms ; rich lands. Flushed a Quail. — Weather as yes- terday. Tuesday, July 15th. Messrs. Carr and Calais set out for Georire- town, Maryland ; three hundred miles. Wea- ther somewhat warmer. Evening, thunder-gust. 54 HOPETOWN MILLN. Wednesday, July I6th. 5 A. M. Started with Captain WiiliatnRon, for Bath; same time, Mr. Johnstone and Mr. Scott set out to examine a Salt Spring of Captain Williamson's, lately discovered near Seneca River, fifteen miles to the N. of Cayuga. Saw reapers employed on a field of Wheat, near the Lake ; thus has the harvest commenced. Hopetown, twelve miles. Towers's Tavern ; breakfast; neat, attentive. This village con- tains about twelve families ; dry situation, half a mile from the Lake, and near to the Creek by which the Seneca Lake receives the waters of the Crooked Lake. Twelve miles and a half, Hopetown-mills, erected by Captain Williamson; large, well-built, fine situation; the grist-mill contains four pair of stones. The miller, Mr. , is from Greta Bridge, York- shire, Great Britain. Curious Limestone- Rock near the mills, resembling the ruinous wall of a fortress. Met Mr. Dana and Mr. Cuyler, on their way to Geneva; had left Bath that morning. Eighteen miles, passed through the Friend's Settlement ; their Spiritual Guide, Jemima Wilkinson, is now without influence and popularity, — the Settlers here preferring to raise Wheat, to raising subscriptions for " the friend." 1' l.V M S T A V K RN. 65 I i». M. Plum's Tavern, twenty-six miles t (lined in neat Log-house; attentive people. - Thirty-two miles, Crooked Lake to the \V, and Mud Lake to the E. ; both in sight. Our situation was one of the most elevated in the United States, or even in North America; as the waters of Crooked Lake, uniting with those discharged by the Seneca, Cayuga, Oneida and Ontario Lakes, reaches the Ocean by the River and Gulph of St. Lawrence; whilst on the other hand, Mud Lake is one of the head waters of the Susquehanna, the great feeder of the Ches- apeak; and at a very inconsiderable distance to the S. W. is one of the head branches of the Alleghany River, which, joining its waters with the Ohio, the Missisippi, and the still more con- siderable river, the Misouri, mixes with the Ocean in the Gulph of Mexico. So that this highly favoured District has water communi- cations with New York by the Mohawk and the Hudson Rivers; with Baltimore by the Susquehanna River and the Chesapeak Bay; with Montreal and Quebec by Lake Ontario and the River St. Lawrence ; and there is a prospect of an easy communication being opened with Philadelphia by the waters of the Dela- war, and with New Orleans by those of the Ohio. 7 p. M. Bartless Mills and Tavern, thirty- u t ; i!*i^ 56 FREDERICK TOW N. seven miles. Supped and slept. Mosquitoes troublesome. These Mills are situated on Mud Creek, near its outlet from the Lake. A village was laid out here by the name of Frederick- town; three or four houses only were built, when it was found necessary to relinquish the further progress of the Settlement, as the mill- dam had thrown so much backwater on the place as endangered the health of the inhabit- ants. Mr. Bartles is well supplied from the Creek with fish ; and the Indians, who regu- larly encamp near his mill every winter, take care to keep their friend well supplied with venison. As we went the horse-road from Geneva to Hopetown, we in that distance saw only one or two small clearances ; the carriage road is settled aln\ost in its whole extent, though the land is no better in quality, but preferred from its laying further from the Lake, the immediate vicinity of which was by the first Settlers thought unhealthy : experience has proved it otherwise, so that in a short time, the lands now neglected will be considered as most valuable ; though for the first twelve miles we skirted Seneca Lake, we seldom got a glimpse of it, 80 compact are the woods. After passing through the Friends' Settlement, we met with no other till within a mile of Bartles's; for BARTLES S TAVERN. 57 Plum's is merely a station established by Cai>- tain Williamson for the accommodation of travellers. We kept the horse-path to within seven miles of Bartles's, when we fell in with the carriage-road. — ^The woods were chiefly Beech and Sugar Maple, intermixed with Bass, (Lime or Linden) Hickories, Oak, and Walnut. &c. Now and then, on high land. Oak pre- dominated. Saw a Bald Eagle, Red-headed Wood-peckers, a few Blackbirds and Robins; two black, one red and a few Ground Squirrels. The road very good for horses. — Pleasant mo- derate weather. Thursday, July 17th, Started 5 a. m. Accompanied by Mr. Bartles. This gentleman has lately opened a very pro- fitable business with Baltimore, for flour and lumber, the produce of his own estate and mills ; these are shipped at his own door, in arks, which have eleven miles of descent before Mud Creek unit^is with the Conhocton, a branch of the Tioga, which is itself the north branch of the Susquehanna. Mr. Bartles builds his arks seventy feet by sixteen ; their draft from eighteen inches to two feet. In one of these arks Mr. B. sent twelve hundred bushels of Wheat ; it would ■ ■! 58 BARTLESS MILLS. M with equal ease have taken eighteen hundred bushels or upwards of fifty tons ; a thousand bushels is about thirty tons. Two hands will build one of these arks in a fortnight. Mr. B.'s were built by his sons. The materials are his own, and at hand j they are sold for lumber either at Havre de Grace or at Baltimore for about thirty dollars, which is somewhat more than the expense of construction. Persons not having conveniences for building arks, may have them constructed for one dollar for every foot in length ; those, therefore, that I have been describing, could have been sold to profit for seventy dollars each. Four hands will navi- gate one of these arks in five or seven days to Havre de Grace, a distance of three hundred and fifty miles, being the mouth of the Sus- quehanna; from whence, by the Chesapeak and the Patapsco, to Baltimore, is about seventy miles farther. Mr. Bartles's flour was esteemed the best ever inspected in Baltimore ; his Pine (White) boards were engaged at two dollars per one hundred feet, he received only one dollar and sixty-six two-third cents. He complains of this ill usage — this unmercantile transaction, and with reason. This greediness of the mer- chant most generally defeats its own purpose ; it turns the trade into a different channel. Rather than be imposed upon a second time, BATH. 59 Mr. B. will have a lumber-yard, and retail his own boards ; or will himself ship them to the West Indies. Forty-live miles ; crossed Mud Creek at its junction with the Conhocton. Fifty-one miles ; Captain Williamson's Farm, and New Houses ; fine flats and the Conhoc- ton to the S. ; a small Lake to the N. 9 A. M. Bath, fifty-two miles ; first eight miles on the E. side of Mud Creek, through White Pine, Hemlock, Oak, Yellow Pine, &c. The White Pine exceeded any that I had yet seen; many of them were upwards of two hundred feet in length. Mr. B. had measured one, when a log, two hundred and two feet, being probably the tallest Trees of their kind, and the loftiest in the world. Country mountainous, embo- soming small Lakes ; the ridges covered to their summits with thick woods, especially Oak and Hemlock. First six miles the road exe- crable, full of deep, r liry holes. After passing Mud Creek, the road, following on its N. side the course of the Conhocton, was tolerably good ; here the Timber was principally Scrub Oak, intermixed with Yellow Scrub Pine : this degeneracy of the wood is owing to its being annually burnt by the Indians ; the destructive mode of clearing a passage through the woods, and rousing the game, is now put a stop to, nothing being more destnu^tlve to tiie soil — I 60 BATH. ! fi! impoverished by its richest particles being burnt and evaporated. Near Bath, met two emigrating families on their way to Niagara. Their intention is to seek shelter under the British Government from the tyranny of that of the United States ! •' We fought seven years to get rid of taxation, " and now we are taxed more than ever !" — " D — n my eyes," said one of the sons of Free- " dom, " was we now to have another war with " England, if I would act like so d — d a fool " as I did the last !"— " How like a fool, friend?" " How ! why d — n me, to fight against them !" — These families were from the disaffected counties of Pennsylvania, the scene of the last insurrec- tion. Hundreds of them have removed, are removing, and will remove, into Upper Canada, where tliey will form a nest of vipers in the bosom that now so incautiously fosters them, and in which they will infix their deadly fangs the moment they can do it with impunity. This consequence I do not hesitate to predict ; for as I never saw u bad subject make a good citizen, so neither do I believe a bad citizen can make a good subject. It is not theybrm of Government that such as these quarrel with, but with Government itself; — with them, restraint, however mild, is oppression — law, injustice. On our arrival at Bath, we were much sur- prised to find that Mr. Dana and Mr. Cuyler r P: ^:'l' 4 BATH. 61 had got there before us, having nearly rode twice the distance that we did in about the same time — that is, ninety-two miles in twenty- eight hours. They consideral)ly shortened their journey by leaving Mr. Bartles's to the E. A new road is however cutting from Bartles's Mills to Bath, which will save six miles ih fifteen. Bath, which now contains about forty fami- lies, w?s laid out in 1792, the same year that Captain Williamson forced a passage to this, till then, unknown country, through a length of wil- derness which the oldest and most experienced woodmen could not be tempted to assist him to explore, — tempted, too, by an offer of more than five times the amount of their usual wages. Captain Williamson was then accompanied by his lend and relation, Mr. Johnstone, and a servant : afterwards a backwoodsman was pre- vailed on to join the party. It was not till 1795 that this country could supply its inhabitants with food, for till then, their flour was brought from Northumberland, and their pork from Philadelphia ; yet so ra- pidly has the spirit of improvement gone forth in this country — so suddenly has plenty burst forth, where so late was famine — and so quick the change of scene from dark-tangled forests, (whoso death-like silence yielded but to the 't\\ 68 n A T H. .( i growl of bears, the howl of wolves, and the yell of savages) to smiling fields, to flocks and herds, and the busy hum of men ; that instead of being indebted to others for their support, they will henceforth annually supply the low country, Baltimore es^tecially, with many hundred bar- rels of flour^ and head of cattle. On Captain Williamson's first arrival, where now is Bath, he built a small loghut for his wife and family ; if a stranger came to visit him, he built up a little nook for him, to put his bed in. In a little time a boarded or frame-house was built to the left of the hut ; this also was intended but as a temporary residence, though it then appeared a palace. His present resi- dence, a very commodious, roomy, and well- planned house, is situated to the right of where stood the hut — long consigned to the kitchen fire. Mr. Dana and myself each occupy two rooms in the old house ; here also Captain Wil- liamson has his offices : some of the servants sleep above. To the S. front of *he house is the garden, about two acres, aburidantly pro- ductive of vegetables and melons. The fruit trees are yet too young to yield, but their con- dition is thriving. Bath is situated in a small valley, watered by the Conhocton, running at the foot of a mountainous ridge, which shuts in the valley to BATH. 63 the S. ; this ridge is high and steep, and clothed with wood to its summit. Bath is the capital of Steuben County, which County contains at pre- sent about three hundred families. On the first settlement of the county, these mountainous districts were thought so unfavourably of, when compared with the rich flats of Ontario County, that none of the settlers could be prevailed upon to establish themselves here, till Captain Williamson himself set the example, saying, " As Nature has done so much for the North- " ern Plains, I will do something for these " Southern Mountains ;" — though the truth of the case was, that Captain Williamson saw very clearly on this his first visit to the country, that the Susquehanna, and not the Mohawk, would be ultimately its best friend. Even now it has proved so ; for at this day a bushel of wheat is better worth one hundred cents at Bath, than sixty cents at Geneva. This difference will grow wider every year ; for little, if any, addi- tional improvement can be made in the water communication with New York, whilst that to Baltimore will admit of very extensive and ad- vantageous ones. Its present efforts are those of a child, compared with the manly strength it will soon assume. Cuyler breakfasted and dined with us ; he has established himself here as a Lawyer. N ( u BATH. Dana, a nephew of Sir William Pulteney s, is from Shrewsbury. Captain Williamson has two children : Ann, nine years old ; Alexander, about seven. — Weather somewhat wanner than yesterday. Friday, July 18th. 5 A. M. Bathed in the Creek ; accompanied Captain Williamson to the Farm. During our ride Captain Williamson stopped his horse and asked me if I heird any thing? I answered that I heard what 1 considered to be the warning of a Rattle-Snake; it was the first time that 1 had ever heard one ; the sound was very audi- ble. We dismounted and killed the Snake. I cut off the rattle which had six joints. Captain Williamsons Farm occupies the greater and best part of the valley in which Bath is situated ; well watered by the Creek, and a remarkably strong spring, supposed the outlet of the Lake. This Farm likewise contains a very rich marl, and in great quantity — an excellent compost for the uplands : the flats are too rich probably ever to require it, more especially as benefiting from the overflowing of the Creek. Here Captain Williamson has built an excellent mansion-house, much superior to the one at BATH. 65 Bath, and wliich he proposes as his future residence: the plan is original, Captain Wil- liamson being his own architect. I have seen no plans for dwelling houses — for country dwel- ling houses, that I would more readily adopt than Captain Williamson's ; this is a single house, with two stories and wings. The Ame- ricans have a great antipathy to wings; they invariably hold to the ^^ solid column^'' the cellar- kitchens, and the dormar windows. Such the Government House in New York , — such the President's House in Philadelphia, and in the Federal City; — and such the two capitals of Colombia and of Richmond. Captain Williamson's people were principally employed in haymaking, under the inspection of Mr. Morrison, his intelligent manager. One of the mowers, a young Englishman, of the name of Wilkinson, wishing to settle in Ame- rica, was permitted to come out on condition of his serving a farmer one year as a labourer, after which his father, a respectable yeoman, pro- mised to honor his bills for a thousand pounds sterling. The youth had great luck in meeting with Captain Williamson ; and I have no doubt that in the course of six or eight years he will possess one of the most flourishing farms in the Genesee. Captain Williamson has very considerable 66 i\ ATH. Hi' <' '-.if. Stock in Horses and Oxen, of good breeds ; he shewed me a mare and filly, for which he had refused nine hundred dollars ; five hundred for the filly. This farm, to speak <) la Biuwn, possesses great capabilities; amongst others, an excellent tra( for a deer-park. i- << Visited Captaui Williamson's mills, a little west of Bath, on the Creek, which before the ■winter sets in, is supposed will be made navi- gable fifteen miles higher up ; at least, a fiirmer there promises to exert himself to send an ark down from thence in the spring. Should he succeed, Captain Williamson promises him a gift of thirty acres of land. The navigation of the Susquehanna will then extend to within six miles of Canadarqua Lake. — Very sultry. itf |!{ :'. B I: Saturday, July 19th. Bathed in the Lake ; form a circle — half a mile, perhaps less, in diameter ; neither inlet nor outlet ; not fathomable, at least great depth of line has been sunk to no purpose — supposed the mouth of a volcano. Dana and Cuyler saw a strange jiih — two fore-feet or paws — goggling eyes ! — a young mermaid perhaps ! — or an imp escaped from hell ! Evening accompanied Cuyler to give Mr. Pat- terson, of the Painted Post, the meeting at the 'ISJ'^'I MUD CREEK. (57 junction of the Mud and the Conhocton Creeks. This Mud Creek, by the bye, is as clear as crystal ; so is Mud Lake. Mr. Patterson is the only person possessed of a Seine-net for many a mile round ; this net he brought with him. At the first haul we took twenty-two Oswego Bass, two Suckers, and one Perch; second haul, seventeen Bass, two Suckers, and one Perch ; the third haul was unsuccessful. The Oswego Bass, or Susquehanna Salmon, is shaped somewhat like a Trout, those we caught weighing on an average three lbs. each. Mr. P. has taken one which weighed eleven lbs.; a person present saw one weighing sixteen lbs. ; are only found in the head waters of the Sus- quehanna, feed on Trout, delicious eating, most resembling Pike in taste and colour. After all, this Oswego Bass is the Pickerel or Poisson- dor6 of Canada! — Bathed in the evening. — Fine pleasant day. Sunday, July 20th. Bathed in the Creek. Succession of heavy showers throughout the day. Monday, July 21st. ■ Our whole family formed a cavalcade on the K IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 IS I.I ^ m 2.5 2.2 us i;£ illlM 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 68 SOUTHERN RIUGE. N. W. road leading to Danswille, on Canan- seraga Creek, a "water of the Genesee River. ^4 Alexander, as well as his sister, were of the party; he, as bold as Nimrod, was mounted on a Scotch Grey, nine hands or less, in height. The pony was so small that I easily stood across him with both feet flat to the ground. Afternoon, Dana and I climbed with much difficulty the summit of the southern ridge; found it very steep and lofty, and heavily tim- bered, chiefly Hemlock. Mosquitoes were trou- blesome, and we received no little annoyance from fallen and rotten trees, and the young Hemlock through which we had to brush our way. The summit was tolerably flat, but we were prevented by the foliage from getting the viewe we went in quest of. After scrambling half a mile or more along the ridge, we descended from its highest pitch by an almost perpendi- cular wolf-track ; (at least so we thought it) forded the Creek as best way to get home. — Cool pleasant wind. . / Tuesday, July 22d. ;'i..;i. Morning, bathe ; Cuyler shewed me a stem of Sicily Wheat ; also a stalk of Genesee Wheat, containing thirty stems and heads, all from one seed. Sky overcast. SNAKES. m Wednesday, July 23d. Gave Cuyler a day's work in his hay-field ; so did Dana — we had warm work of it : our delicate hands were soon blistered. Last Sum- mer I could not meet the sun without a white hat and umbrella, whilst on this scorching day of a much warmer season than the last, I am working all day in the hay-field — in a black hat, too! — Ann and her little brother took care to supply us with cans of good beer, for they seemed to think us meritoriously employed, and worthy of our hire. No inhabitant of this country would think it worth notice, that Cuyler found two rattlesnakes in the grass, one of which he killed. Few persons here but would rather attack a Rattle-Snake than a wasp. The Rattle-Snake is frequently used for food, and said to be good eating ; I had no opportu- nity of making the trial, although I had the inclination to do so. It would appear that the venemous Snakes only are used for food. The Hog certainly prefers the Rattle-Snake to all others ; and I did not learn that the Indians eat any except the Rattle-Snake. In England, the Viper, or Adder, is the only Snake used for making broth for invalids, and is the only poi- sonous Snake we have. That poisonous Snakes are alone used for food, I should attribute to 70 SNAKES. '- their being free from that most fetid odor which appears to be the protection of the harmless tribe of Snakes. Let any one irritate a common Snake, and he will soon subject himself to a most unpleasant effluvia. The Snake casts its skin invertedly, as a tight stocking is drawn off the leg. The outer coat of the eye is removed along with the skin, fixed in it as glass in spec- tacles, and is perfectly transparent. I possess a skin cast by a small English Snake, from which this description is taken. Evening — Bathe — Warm day. Thursday, July 24th. .*,4, Dana and I again assisted Cuyler in his hay- field : the day was however so hot and close, that we felt no disposition to return in the after- noon. Our shoulders, necks and backs were very sorely scorched by the sun. — Very hot day, and sultry evening. The motive that in- duced Dana and I to assume the character of hay-makers was, that Cuyler could get no la- bourers. He offered half his crop to any one who would harvest for him the other half. At Geneva, much damage was done by light- ning. At the head of Canadarqua Lake, a man was struck dead whilst felling a tree : the tree first received the lightning, then the axe, much of which was melted. AGRICULTURE. 71 Friday, July 25th. ;, u •;. 1 i.!t<;i ,••1 » My servant Lewis got drunk and behaved like a madman ; got my foot strained. Captain Williamson staid this day longer at Bath on my, or rather, on my foot's account. — ^Very sultry. Thermometer 91°. Saturday, July 26th. ''...'. Arose 4 a. m. Went into the garden in search of humming-birds ; saw three or four of these little winged fairies. 6 A. M. Captain Williamson and I set out for Geneva ; we were to be accompanied part of the way by Cuyler and Judge Kersey. 9 a.m. Capt. Pratt's, nine miles ; this gen- tleman purchased half a township — twelve thou- sand acres. Knocked down the first tree in the Spring of 1799. By the Autumn following, he, with the assistance of three hands and three yoke of oxen, had put one hundred and eight acres in Wheat ! Incredible industry ! Himself near sixty, and his son, a lad of fifteen, did a fourth part of this work. The land was very heavily timbered, and some time was necessa- rily dedicated to the building of a log-house and stable, and in procuring provisions for the men, and food for the oxen : this district too, I ii'< 72 W ATKI N8T0 W N. without roads and neighbours. In preparing new land for Wheat in this country, no plough is used. After the logs are burnt, the harrow is passed two or three times slightly OTer the field, the grain is then sown, yet I never saw finer Wheat than this of Oapt. Pratt's. I have seen it ranker; it will, however, at least, average twenty-five bushels per acre, even on the highest and worst piece of land in his whole purchase. The Wheat is fully ripe; on Monday, Captain Pratt will apply the sickle to it. Next Summer he will have probably two hundred tons of Hay from the same land, as Timothy and Red Clover were sown over the Wheat on the snow. He has also a large quantity of land prepared for receiving Wheat, and a field of Rye, which he put in last Spring. He has built a large barn and a saw-mill, on a branch of the Conhocton, which may easily be rendered navigable to Bath. Some time has been employed on the roads. 1 have been thus particular respecting Captain Pratt, as I believe no other settler ever accomplished so much with such slender means. Cross the five-mile Creek, the main naviga- ble branch of the Conhocton : in this bottom are some of the richest lands of the State. £nter Ontario County. ,;, .,> ■: , r? 3i P. M. Watkinstown, or Middletown, twenty two miles, three miles from the head of W A T K I N a T O W N. 73 Caaadarqua, Lake. The Tavern i» a house in whieh filth and, famine strive for mastepyi Leonora, vtsho catered for Gil Blaa' thieves, must have been a decent body compared to our hostess, who for our dinner hashed up the scrapings and fragments of other mens' ph&tes, or rather a wooden tray, out of which we were all obliged to eat. " Marry^ Sir,, shes all grease; " and I know not what use to put her to, but to " make a lamp of her, and run from her by her " own light. I warrant, her rags, and the tallow '* in them, will bum a Poland winter: if she " lives till Doomsday, she'll burn a week longer '* than the whole world." This was decidedly the dirtiest house in which 1 ever was in any country. It was certainly an exception from the general habits of this people. With attention to clean- liness, the family might have lived in a very enviable manner ; they had provisions in abund- ance, and the neighbourhood was well stocked with game and fish. I went to bed in my gloves and boots. The cheese dropped fatness upon us as we sat in the hall. Though settled here many years on an excellent farm, we could not get any one article we had a right to look for ; neither fish, flesh, nor fowl ; — neither eggs, nor milk, nor vegetables. Our glasses might pass for dirty horn; they would require boiling in soapsuds and scraping, ere it could be guessed 74 WATKINSTOWN. what they were made of. Our scraps were the last remains of a fine buck, killed yesterday by the host and his hay-makers with scythes and bludgeons. It is supposed he had been chased by wolves, as he was almost spent when he crossed the hay field. This Settlement contains about ten houses, whose owners are all Captains, Majors, and Colonels, living on the produce of the neigh- bouring flats : the valley contains about three thousand acres of very excellent land, worth about thirty dollars per acre. Little Hay was yet made, though not an acre of grass that was not fit to cut ; the Rye was all got in, and the Wheat ready for the sickle. The farmers in this country let their Grass and Grain stand too long; — better three days before ripe, than three after. 1»1 i>SJtl •>lV,l\ lAy'. u V'.IUI,'* •nt .■■•» -::-ii Sunday, July 27th. ,^ ■ .^^ j,, ,^ ^^.^,,^ ■^^^^. " Having slept not only with all my clothes on, but even in my boots and gloves, — so filthy was the bed, — I left my room at day-light, and went to a neighbour's house to knock up the Judge (Kersey) though Captain Williamson was him- self here best knovm as " the Judge f" thence to Captain Metcalf s to rouse Captain Williamson and Cuyler. What a contrast was here when FLINT CREEK. 76 le >y id d le 8, d 1- ie ;h IS IS le r ;e compared to the Tavern where I slept ; though in appearance a mean-looking log-house, yet within, it was clean, and the beds good, the floors bright, and the furniture, pots and pans burnished and dazzling. ^ -,- '^ .' — . 5^ A. M. Mounted our nags ; crossed the flats ; lost our way in looking for a private path across the mountains, by which we were to save ten miles ; got directions ; ascended and de- scended a steep and high mountain to Arm- strong's, on Flint Creek. Thirty-one miles; good breakfast ; people clean and obliging. The road from Pennsylvania to Canadarqua is to pass through these flats. To induce the Settlers here to undertake the making of this road, im- mediately after the harvest, was the object of Captain Williamson and the Judge in coming this route. ' ' Mr. Armstrong gave me a large rattle of ten joints, lately taken from a Rattle-Snake which had bit his brother. On receiving the bite the youtii tied a string very tight round his leg, a little above the wound ; for this purpose a withe of the bark of white ash is the best, as it infal- libly prevents the poison ascending beyond it. He then went home and cut out a piece of flesh from his leg where the fangs had enteretj, squeezed out the blood, and put salt and indigo into the wound, over which he held a piece of L I i 76 HOPETO W N. the flesh of the Rattle-Snake ; m^hen this grew putrid, which it did in a few minutes, he ap- plied a fresh piece, till he had used up all the Snake. For a few hours his leg continued swelled, and much yellow matter oozed from the wound ; he was however enabled to go to his work the second day. Mrs. Armstrong informed us of a monstrous large horn found by a neighbour, and some large teeth, which her husband had lately found. — " Where are they? Let's see them?" — ** Nay, my husband did not think them worth " bringing home, they're yet in the field." — We sent the man for them, who returned with only three of the teeth. None present knew any animal to which such teeth might belong. Captain Williamson pur- poses, after harvest, to dig about the place where these teeth were found, in hopes of further dis- coveries. Thirty-seven miles, Judge Kersey and Cuyler turned off for Bath. Thirty-nine miles. Judge Potter's ; handsome house, extensive farm ; having a considerable district remaining of the thirty-six thousand acres he originally purchased. Hopetown, Tower's Tavern, forty- seven miles ; good dinner. 10 p. M. Hotel, Geneva ; fifty-nine miles. There were no cleared lands from Bath to within two miles of Watkinstown, save Cap- AGRICULTURE. Tf tain Pratt's ; country, a succession of ridges, long and gradual ascents ; horse-path only, until we enter Ontario County; Soil excellent in the intervals, and the whole good Wheat Land, even to the top of all the ridges ; little inferior, if any so, to that under culture by Captain Pratt. Well Timbered ; noticed principally the Beech, Sugar Maple, Oak, Hickories, Chesnut, Hemlock, Bass, Tulip-tree, Ironwood with hop- like blossom. Dogwood, and a few Elms, &c. ; Beech most abounded, then Sugar Maple, and numerous plants and flowers ; Maiden-hair in abundance. Shewn the best antidote for the bite of a rattlesnake ; these antidotes are numerous. The plant I was now presented with I do not recollect having before seen. It was Solomon's Seal. Saw only one Bird, a young Thrush, if I except the red-headed Woodpecker, which is always to be met with. Passed bear-traps set by the Indians. This country much infested by Bears and Wolves. Deer very plentiful. The country from Watkinstown much like that already passed, to Flint Creek ; then more level and richer soil to Judge Potter's ; from Pot- ter's to Geneva, one continued succession of Set- tlements. On Flint Creek saw young pigeons, the first flight yet seen by any of our company ; passed close by a cock pheasant — took it for a barn-door hen ; a kind of ruff round its neck is 78 FLINT CREEK. its principal difference; in no way like an English pheasant. 'Tis said that pheasants, similar to the European pheasant, are to be met with in Upper Canada : also hares, similar to the European ones. Mr. Johnstone shewed us a bottle of water he had brought from the Salt Spring. The brine was very strong, and the smell somewhat like Harrogate water. Mr. J. found on trial that it contained one-sixteenth of its own weight of pure Salt. The Spring is in a marsh on the banks of Seneca River, ten miles north of Cayuga. What is somewhat extraordinary, the Spring rises from the bottom of a fresh water marshy so that the bottle was obliged to be sunk ten feet through the fresh to get at the salt water. Captain Williamson proposes imme- diately to establish a Salt-work on this spot, where he will have many advantages over the Onondaga works : as, no tax to the State, less expense in fuel, provisions, &c. being on a na- vigable river, and nearer the market. He will carry on the works too, with more system, and on abetter plan. ll'V ^1t Monday, July 28th. -.,,.' Bathed. Captain Williamson gave me some si)ecimens of Oats and Barley grown near AGRICULTURE. 79 Geneva ; they are (he best I have seen in America, and perhaps equal to any that I have seen in Bngland. He presented me also with a map of the Genesee, and others, including the neighbouring States and part of Canada, and some papers respecting the Genesee. — Warm day; thermometer 88<*. ■■// M< Tuesday, July 29th. 'f m i. »..».: ' ■> Warm; very warm. — Thermometer 90°. „. Wednesday, July 30th. •-;-•'; 'I Bathe. Warm to suffocation. — Ther. 92<*. Thursday, July 31st. <• ^ •' Bathed. Mr. Johnstone shewed me some stems of Wheat, each containing the Hessian Fly, in a grub or nymph state, in the joint nearest the ground. Introduced by Mr. Hallet to his sister, Mrs. Colt. Though the Thermo- meter was 94}° owing to a fine breeze, the heat was more supportable than yesterday. Friday, August 1st. ' Sky overcast ; cold, and every appearance of rain. 80 HOPETO W N. Saturday, August 2d. •.n.i IJIJM f-MV ^:;/,' ' Clear, cool, and pleasant. Bathed. Ther- mometer 80**. Wrote to the Rev. Thomas El- lison, Albany ; honored by Captain Williamson. Gave Captain Williamson an introductory letter to F. Maude, Wakefield. Afternoon, rode out to S. W. a few miles ; most of the harvest housed. Whortleberries at table ; the first this season; brought to the hotel by an Indian; those near Genesee still hard and green. Sunday, August 3d. ' Capt. Williamson set out for Utica ; received letter of introduction to Thomas Morris, Esq. Canadarqua, from John Johnstone, Esq. Plea- sant morning; close evening; heavy rain in showers. Could distinctly perceive the pro- gress of one of these showers across the Lake, which it took three minutes to cross, a distance of two miles. Monday, August 4th. ' Mr. Johnstone set out for Utica. Evening rode out five miles on road to " Friend's Settle- ment ;" almost the whole of this distance, the country cleared on each side of the road ; saw a large Owl ; also a black Squirrel : these arc S Q U I R R F. L 8. 81 larger than the English Red Squirrel, and much longer in proportion to the height and thickness, nearly approaching the shape of the Weasel. The Red Squirrel of this part of the country is however less than the English Squirrel : whilst the grey Squirrel is at least six times as large, and is very good eating ; might be mistook for Rabbit. I have made many good dinners upon them in my travels through the Western parts of North Carolina and Virginia. Of these three species of American Squirrels, the red and the grey are rarely to be met with in the Genesee ; the black Squirrels, on the contrary, are so numerous, in particular seasons, that about twelve months ago, ten young men of this place agreed to have a Squirrel feast; they divided into two bands of five each; took contrary directions in the woods ; returned at an hour agreed upon to an oAtertainment provided at the expense of the party who had killed the fewest Squirrels ; the number killed were three hundred, of which number there were not one red, and but one grey. Squirrel-feasts are very common in the back Settlements of America, but in no part more so than in Kentucky, where the grey Squirrels are more numerous than even the black Squirrel in the Genesee. In Kentucky, the rule is, that no Squirrel is to count that is not shot through the head with a rifle ball ; nor 82 SU LPHD R SPRING. does it count if it has two wounds/ — Heavy showers in the night ; morning, overcast; day, clear, cool and pleasant. >» ;i. <.. i.; >u, ni ..,>,. , ; Tuesday, August 5th. '"•'^'- "♦"''' •■••■•'?■'•■■..,,,. Bathed ; went on board the Seneca Sloop of forty tons. 9 A. M. Set out for the Sulphur Spring ; kept company with Mr. Beekman the first seven miles, when he took the right to Lyons and Sodus, and I the left towards Canadarqua. Nine miles, crossed Flint Creek over a good planked bridge near its junction with the outlet of Canadarqua Lake. Here are a set of Grist and Saw Mills, but not sufficient water to work them at present; passed through a grove of Hemlock and White Pine ; the Timber was re- markably fine, and must be very valuable in this part of the country, where it is extremely scarce. Twelve miles, reached the Sulphur Spring, which my olfactory nerves had for some time prepared me for the sight of; it breaks ground in two or three different places, which. '* Extract of a Letter from a Gentleman in Madison County, Kentucky, dated Richmond, April 4, 1805:—" On counting the «' Scalps yesterday, of a Squirrel Hunt in this County, there •' were, including a few Crows' and Hawks' Scalps, eight tho«- " sand eight hundred and fifly-seven produced on the ground*." SULPHUR SPRING. 88 of )t n d a. d 3t St k >f n y r e s almost immediately uniting, expands as imme-r diately over what appeared to be a rough pavement of limestone, passing quickly off to the marsh below, when it becomes almost stag- nated. Trees grow not in this marsh, though immediately around it — principally Maple anc Dogwood. Mosquitoes were but few; coula perceive no animalcule in the water, save a small grub with six legs on the fore-part of its body; had the legs been off, it would have greatly resembled the grub found in fruit and nuts. The water was clear as crystal, and in taste exactly like Harrogate water; indeed I believe it to be of that nature, though not so strong. Sulphur is said to have been found en masses which, when analyzed by Dr. Priestley, pro- duced ninety-six parts in a hundred of pure Sulphur. After a diligent search of half an hour, I was obliged to content myself with such specimens as adhered to substances washed by the water. I particularly selected the skeletons of leaves whose muscles having de- cayed, were supplied with Sulphur. This Spring is about half way betwixt Geneva and Cana- darqua, on what is called the Upper or North Road, though nine miles out of the way, is preferred in wet weather to the Lower Road, which in rainy seasons is the worst piece of ■■ 84 SULPHUR SPRING. road between Albany and Niagara. I should observe, that during the first seven miles, the country is cleared on each side, and also for the last three miles, though these Settlements are only of two years' standing at the most. Evening, walked to the Outlet of the Lake ; flocks of Wild Ducks ; Kingfishers, different from English Kingfishers, body lead-colour, neck white, head long, with a crest. The Outlet is not more than twenty yards in width, very rapid and deep, expanding immediately into a large bay. — Mr. Walsh arrived at the Hotel this evening. — Weather clear, cool and pleasant ; blanket necessary in the night. , , , { .I't*.** Wednesday, August 6th. '' Introduced by Mr. Hallett to Mr. Morris, of Canadarqua, and Mr. Yates, of Schenectady, who arrived late last night at the Hotel. We three breakfasted with Mr. Hallet and his sister Mrs. Colt. Mentioning my ill success yester- day in not being able to procure a specimen of the Sulphur, I was informed that the bed of the streeun, between the Spring head and the rocky channel, was a mass of pure Sulphur, equal to that sent to Dr. Priestley, of the depth of five or six feet, or perhaps more, and exists in so soft a state, that incautious persons have bogged SENECA LAKE. 85 Id or ts > • at r, le y r e jr r- )f e y o ir ft d themselves in it breast-high. On the first dis- covery of this Spring, numerous and curious pe- trefactions were found in the channel ; amongst the rest were hornets' and wasps' nests. Mr. Morris found one of the fonner, which he has preserved, ■i^'f}^'"^'''^ r"t?.;'!."rrrf^T,([->'^- ■■ : .n .. Evening, rode out with M*i Hallet and Mr. Rees to the £. side of the Lake, which, as well as almost the whole of the Lake, is in Onon- daga County. This is one of the most inte- resting rides in the neighbourhood of Geneva, and nothing but the supposed impracticability of crossing the Outlet prevented my taking it before* There is however a fording place, which being known to Mr. Hallet, we got safely over. We were now in Washington Township, which was taken off from Romulus when that encroached on the Oneida Reservation. The best view of the Lake is immediately on passing the Genesee line, when you open the two points, called Long Point and Peach- Offchapd. Poiht, beyond which the view of the Lake is^ uninterrupted to the horizon. It is pleasing to remark the great variety the same prospect affords at different times of the day, and in different states of the atmosphere. Yes- terday, when I observed this prospect. Long and Peach'-Orchard Points appeared directly opposibe to each other ; they now appeared 80 SENECA LAKE. agreeable to their real distance — that is, one, eighteen, and the other thirty miles from our present situation. Passed through tivo excellent farms on the E. side of the Lake ; one of these, which I had often noticed from the Hotel win- dow, is as productive and skilfully managed as any within the State of New York : on the se- cond farm observed a field of hay-grasSy which ought to have been cut some weeks ago ; also, a pretty extensive nursery of fruit-trees. , , The lower part of the Lake is separated by a narrow bank of gravel from a large extent of marsh and swamp, both of which abound in Wild Fowl, Snipes, Pheasants, Deer, and other Game. Having a dog with us, he put up a great many Ducks, and one Pheasant : the Pheasant sprung into a neighbouring tree, from whence he was dislodged with stones, though not till he had received a warm cannonading and a severe blow on his leg. Saw two of the large black, red-headed Woodpeckers, the first of this kind that I have seen in the Genesee. Mr. H. pointed out to me the Tamarisk, which Volney mentions as abounding so much in Syria. I had frequently seen this tree in marshy grounds, but bad supposed it the Willow. Mr. Morris returned to Canadarqua this evening, Mr. Walsh accompanying him on horseback. 1 mention horseback, as Mr. Walsh and the rest GENEVA. Hf le, ur nt 3e, in- as je- ch (0, of the Albanians are so partial to their covered waggons, that it is but on rare occasions they will mount on horseback. Mr. Walsh came hither from Albany in his waggon — literally a waggon, a plain, simple, strong, marketing, farmer's waggon. He performed the journey in five days. Mr. Morris politely invited me to take my abode with him when I visited Cana- darqua. — This day cool and pleasant. , ...» ' a of in ler a be m ?h »g le St e. ;h n y r. Thursday, August 7th. ..'Vi i.i .V .> it ri,'.(Kf(:/, This being the last day of my residence at Geneva, I shall bring together such remarks and information as I have been enabled to make and collect respecting this Settleinent, and other districts of the Genesee. ^ ' , Geneva is situated at the N. W. extremity of Seneca Lake. It is divided into Upper and Lower Town. The first establishments were on the margin of the Lake, as best adapted to business ; but Captain Williamson, struck with the peculiar beauty of the elevated plain which crowns the high bank of the Lake, and the many advantages which it possessed as a site for a Town, began here to lay out his Building Lots, parallel with, and facing the Lake. These lots are three quarters of an acre deep, and half an acre in front, and valued at one hundred m GENEVA. and fifty pounds, New York currency, (three hundred and seventy-five dollars, or eighty-fi)ur pounds, seven shillings and six-pence) each lot One article in the agreement with Captain Williamson is, thatno buildings shall be erected on the £. side' of the street, that the view of the Lake may be li^pt open. Those who pur- chase a lot have also the option of purchasing such land as lays between their lot and the Lake, a convenience and advantage which I suppose few will forego, the quantity not being great, and consisting principally of the declivity of the bank, which, for the most part, is not so steep as unfits it for pasturage or gardens. To give encouragement to this Settlement, Captain Williamson built a very lai^ and hand- some Hotel, and invited sm Englishman of the name of Powell, to take the superintendance of it. Captain Williamson has two rooms in this Hotel appropriated to- himself; andi as he resides here the greater part of the year, he takes care that Powell does justice to the estab- lishment, and' to his guests. From this cause it is, that as it respects [H-ovisions, liquors, beds, and stabling, there are few Inns in America equal to the Hotel at Geneva. That part of the town where the Hotel is situated, is in<^nded for a public Square. At Mile-Point, a mile S. of the Hotels Captain Williamson has built a GENEVA. M» handsome brick house, intended for the resi- dence of his brother, who had an intention of establishing himself at Geneva^ g.^itH'^H ^^ii/>(> In 1792, 'Geneva did tnot contain more than three or four families,; but such is the beauty, salubrity, and conveniency ofthis situation, that it now consists of at least sixty families, an Geneva is supplied with water conveyed in pipes from a neighbouring spring, and also by wells. From the Lake the town is plentifully supplied with a great variety of excellent fish. Seneca Lake is forty-four miles long, and from four to six miles wide. Its greatest depth is not known ; the water is very clear and wholesome ; the bottom, sand and gravel, with a clear, sandy beach, like the sea-shore, and consequently not infested with mosquitoes : it however swarms in June and July with the 90 THP. GENESEE. harmless may-fly. This fly is a great favourite ^ith the flsb, and has a peculiar property of slipping off" its old skin, and flying ofl* \vith a new one, leaving its old dress sticking to your clothes, or any other substance that facilitates its removal. ■-' ■••■'• .;-- <..o . This Lake is navigated by a sloop of forty tons, which runs as a packet, and carries on a trade between Geneva and Catherine-town, at the head of the Lake. Captain Williamson is now building a sail- boat, with a jumping keel lee-board, a new in- vention, the keel itself acting as a lee-board, and so contrived as to slide, or Jump into a box fitted for its reception the instant it strikes ground. Its design is as a lee-board to prevent upsetting, and its jumping-keel is to adapt it to shallow water. The climate in the Genesee is less variable than on the sea-coast. In Sum- mer, the days are frequently very warm, but the nights are cool ; in Winter, the frost is not so intense, but more steady, the snow laying longer. »• < , . From a Meteorological Register, kept at Geneva, from Sept. 6th, 1799, to January 30th, 1800, I observed that the warmest day during this period, was the 12th of September, when the Thermometer at 1 p. m. was at 80** 30", the wind S. W. and clear weather ; the coldest ONTARIU COUNTY. 91 day was the Itith of December, when at 9 a.m. the Thermometer was at 6" wind N. and clear weather. The day following the Thermometer had risen to 39^ wind S. and snow — a differ- ence of 23** in . twenty-four hours, being the greatest difference in any twenty-four hours from September the 6th to the 30th of January following. The first fail of snow was on the 17th of October, wind N.W. and Thermometer 35^. On the 5th of December the snow fell eight inches ; S. wind ; Thermometer 34^. On the 15th it fell six inches ; the wind N. £. Thermometer 27^. And on the 30th it fell eight inches; the wind N.W. Ther.30". The Indian Summer began November 3d ; clear N. W. wind. Thermometer 33° to 47». Ontario County is gently undulated ; the ridges run N. and S. This country abounds in Lakes and Streams. Although but a very small part of the Seneca and the Crooked Lakes come witliin its boundaries, it contains the whole of Canadarqua Lake and four smaller ones. Its principal Stream is the Genesee River, which disembogues itself into Lake Ontario, the northern boundary of the Genesee. Its other Streams are the Rundigut, Flint, and Salmon Creeks. . i; n The soil is very generally a rich, black, vege- table mould, producing, in great perfection, N iM r B L O M F I K L I). Oats, Barley, Wheat, Clover, and Timotliy. The Grain is cradled, the sickle being too tedious. Provisions are plentiful : good cheeue is made at the Friends' Settlemr \t. The country where cleared, is very healthy. • *- ><» ■ From exact Registers kept by the Supervisors and Assessors of the different Townships, it appears, that the County of Ontario contained in 1799, twelve thousand two hundred /ree in- habitants, and the whole number of deaths amounted to ninety-seven. Bloom field, the most populous Township, contained one thousand eight hundred and thirty-six inhabitants ; of these, three only died ; one was a person of seventy years of age, who died of an intermittent fever — the others were infants, one dying of a sore throat, the other at ten months' old, and had never been well. In five other Townships, whose total population amounted to one thousand six hundred and sixty, two only died, one of whom was sixty years of age, the other seventy. During the whole time that I have been in the Genesee, I have not seen an instance of the intermitting, or any other fever. The insalubrity of the Genesee was however proverbial, and the inter- mittent fever, or in common parlance, the fever and ague, was, when speaking of this district, called the Genesee fever. My friends earnestly H T t U E N COUNTY. oo try DIS it ed in- hs •p. nd d; ho ire at In on id ty \ie I I?, le r- ;r y cautioned me against sleeping otie night in the Genesee, if avoidable ; and ft lady o^ m v ac- quaintance put up for me a few doses ul Dr. James's Powders, which if does not appear that I shall have occasion for. . v, ^„i , • Stuben County is very much broken, being a constant succession of high hills and deep nar- row vallies, consequently not so generally pro- ductive as Ontario ; but as its streams permit of an uninterrupted water communication with Baltimore, by means of the Susquehanna, it has the advantage of Ontario County, in pos- sessing a better market for its produce, or in being nearer the best market. Near the margin of the Lake in the Town of Geneva, there is a Butter-nut Tree, on which Nature has ingrafted a Sugar Tree : indeed they bear such equal proportion to each other, that it is difficult to say which is the original Tree. A severe wound on a horse of mine was cured by the Water- Pepper Plant (Persicaria.) The brickmakers use oxen to tread or temper their clay : they are often used for treading out the grain from Wheat. In riding through the woods of the Genesee, I was much struck in seeing trunks or stems of trees standing erect, as they grew, and their upper part cut off with an axe, but considerably higher than was possi- ble for any man to reach. This enigma (for 94 CANAUARUUA. such 1 considered it) was thus explained : — The Tree had been blown down across the I'oad, and part cut off to clear the way again ; the root, then, by its weight, overbalanced the trunk attached to it, and recovered its original situation. Those roots will be often twelve or more feet in diameter, having a great weight of earth attached to them. The trees of this part of the country have no tap-roots, not even the Oaks, and are easily blown over. The more they are sheltered, the less hold they take of the ground. During a trial at Canadarqua, a witness, in examination, swore to the fact happening on the same day on which the great Tree in such a Township (naming it) was blown down, and arose again ! It was moved in Court that this man's evidence should be put aside, as not entitled to belief, but over-rtded: a great num- ber, then in Court, swore also to the same cir- cumstance. A farmer informed me that he lost a basket of provisions and his dog, by a tree root suddenly resuming its old position. — Afternoon, took a walk in the woods W. of the town. — Sultry and showers. Friday, August 8th. 6 A. M. Set out in company with Mr. Hallet, for Canadarqua. CAN ADARQU A. 85 9 A. M. Reached Mr. Morris's (sixteen miles) to Breakfast. Introduced to Mrs. Morris, the elegant, beautiful, and accomplished ahi'ir of my late pleasant companion, Kane. Intro- duced, also, to Mr. Greg, from Morpelh, in England — a gentleman reading law with Mr. Morris. Agreeable to Mr. Morris's polite in- vitation of the 6th instant — given in the true spirit of the hospitality which characterizes the Country Gentlemen of America, I became his guest, and was induced to prolong my resi- dence at Canadarqua. This Grentleman was a Member of the State Legislature, and son of the great landed proprietor, of whom Sir William Pulteney bought the Genesee. The first eleven miles of this morning's ride was a heavy timbered low rich soil, the road almost as bad as a road could be. The mosqui- toes of this swampy district were of a stouter race than any I had yet encountered, and to my utter astonishment, I found them capable of drawing blood through a thick leather riding glove. Much as the mosquitoes annoyed us, our horses had not only to suffer their attacks, but that of an insect far more dreadful. In size and figure it very much resembles the Drone Bee ; its fierceness, its sanguinary cha- racter, and the terror which it occasioned to all the beasts of the field, reminded me forcibly M>] 86 C A N A DA RQU A. of Brace's description of " The Fly" of Abys- sinia. — Saw a few Pheasants, or Grouse. — The last five miles was higher land, and more cleared. We crossed an old Indian Settlement, and passed a large party of Indians encamped near the Canadarqua Lake. Our road lay along the northern shore of the Lake, crossing its two outlets. Its natural outlet is, as in the Seneca Lake, at its N. E. comer; but an artificial outlet has been cut at the N. W. corner, which caiTies off by far the greater quantity of water. As soon as you pass this stream, you enter the town of Canadarqua, built at right angles with the Lake, and consequently not commanding any view of it. Strangers will always regret this circumstance ; for though the Canadarqua Lake is not half the size of the Seneca Lake, yet its scenery is far more attractive, and its banks would have afforded a situation very su- perior to that of Geneva. Those however who laid out the town of Canadarqua, looked for more substantial gratifications than that of merely pleasing the eye. In 1792 this town was not further advanced in improvement than Geneva, as it then con- sisted of only two frame houses and a few log- houses : it is now one-third larger than Geneva, containing ninety families, and is the County Town. CANADA RUU A. 07 Canadarqua consists of one street ; from this street are laid off sixty lots, thirty on each side. Each lot contains forty acres, having only twenty-two perches, or one hundred and twenty- one yards in front : thirty lots, consequently, extends the town upwards of two miles ; but the extremities of the i)resent town are not more than a mile and a half a-part. These lots are valued in their unimproved state at six hundred dollars to one thousand dollars each. The Land is very good : two tons and a half of Hay has been made per acre. The principal inhabitants of Canadarqua are, Thomas Morris, Esq., Mr. Phelps, Mr. Ghoram, (who are the greatest land-owners in Canadar- qua and its neighbourhood) and Judge Atwater. In a groupe of Indians I observed one who towered above the rest. Mr. Morris informed me that his great size had procured him the name of " The Infant.^' He appeared to us and the other spectators, to be some inches higher than myself: we measured, and I was found to be the taller. He was six feet one inch, and owed his gigantic appearance to his dress. Col. Brandt, the celebrated Mohawk Chief, left this town yesterday morning, which was to me a great disappointment, as I had an intention of visiting his Settlement on La Grande Riviere. At noon, we had a very '!)| 98 CANADARQUA. severe thunder storm. The lightning struck twice in Canadarqua : it destroyed a bam in BloOmfield. f ,m m; i.an ., : .. .i:j . uu ii.t; Saturday, August 9th. ,, -, , Mr. Ghoram shewed me a petrified wasp's nest, found in digging a well : it was incorpo- rated with a piece of winstone. Mr. Morris shewed me a large ox. — Warm morning ; plea- sant evening. h! Sunday, August 10th. 5 A. M. Set out with Mr. Hallet and Mr. Morris, for Geneva. Saw a flight of young pigeons ; dined at the Hotel ; present, Captain Williamson, Messrs. Johnstone, Morris, Hallet, Rees, Bogart, and Holt ; tea at Mr. and Mrs. Colt's. Was shewn the Mandrake Fruit, or May Apple, shaped like a Lime ; a pleasant acid, but considered unwholesome. — Warm morning — pleasant evening. Monday, August 1 Ith. Breakfast at Mr. and Mrs. Colt's ; dine at the Hotel ; present, Mr. Hall, and Mr. Mc. Kenzie, of Northumberland, Pennsylvania. — Evening, returned with Mr. Morris, to Canadarqua. — Warm morning — pleasant evening. TANADARQUA LAKE. 99 k In Tuesday, August 12th. «":•."■ ,'i;x'. in;. # t'l 'vj ^ Walk over Mr. Morris's Farm. — Pleasant morning — rain, evening. Wednesday, August 13th. * '••'*' r' Rode with Mr. Morris ten or twelve miles along the west banks of the Lake. The scenery for the last six miles was rather tame ; it then became highly beautiful from a succession of bold promontories advancing into the Lake en*- riching and varying its prospect. We princi- pally rode along the Beach, and sometimes in the Lake, to avoid fallen trees ; met with two Sulphur Springs. Canadarqua Lake is eighteen miles in length, and from one to one and a half in breadth. The water near the outlet is very shallow, but of very great depth near the head of the Lake. The new outlet, previously men- tioned, has shoaled the water so much, that near that end of the Lake a considerable sand- bank has appeared above its surface. The shores are low the first six miles ; the Lake is then embosomed in high cliffs and mountains. The bottom is sand and gravel : its waters con- tain Salmon-Trout of twenty-five lbs. weight — Striped Bass and Pickerels, from three to four lbs. — together with Sun-fish, and many too CANADARQUA L A K K. others. Cat-fish and eels are not to be met with in this Lake, as they require a muddy bottom, though very fine ones are taken in the outlet. The Lake is much frequented by Wild Ducks, and the Farmers drive the Deer into it, where they become an easy prey. The Lands for the first six or seven miles were gravelly and poor, having no other Timber than Oaks, and those widely apart. They af^ terwards became more heavily timbered, with an intermixture of Hickory, Walnut, Dogwood, and Ironwood. Passed three clearances ; two of them were low points of land projecting into the Lake. Soil excellent. We returned by a road parallel with, and a mile W. of the Lake. This part of our ride was through a more improved Country, and the Soil of the first quaUty, producing Sugar Maple, Bass, &c. One farmer was still employed with his Hay and Timothy ; his harvest had been got in some time ago. — Sky overcast ; rather too hazy for a good prospect. Evening cold and damp ; found a fire very comfortable. Thursday, August 14th. Morning, took a walk W. of the Town ; evening, ride out with Mr. and Mrs. Morris, INDIANS. 101 N. and E. of the Lake. Passed an Indian wig- wam ; other Indians sleeping round a fire in the open air, partly undressed. ' Friday, August 16th. Evening, ride with Mr. and Mrs. Morris to Mills ; crossed outlet ; excellent Lands, chiefly Sugar Maple. Saturday, August 16th. • Evening, ride with Mr. and Mrs. Morris, £. side of the Lake, three miles. Excellent Land ; two or three clearances. —Evening and night, heavy rain. Sunday, August 17th. Attended a Presbyterian Congregation held in the Court-house, being the only religious assembly in '^anadarqua. There were present fifty men, and thirty women. Evening, rode out with Mr. and Mrs. Morris, E. side of the Lake. Monday, August I8th. 8 A. M. Took leave of Mr. and Mrs. Morris. At two hundred and twenty-one miles, took right fork, the left being the road to Big-Tree. 102 CANAWAOOS. ,> Two hundred and twenty-four miles, Bloom- field Meeting-House ; as yet, the frame-work only is put up, being a very handsome skeleton. The situation is a very fine one. Two hundred and twenty-eight miles, Major Sears' Tavern. Two hundred and thirty miles, Creek and Mill. U p. M. Canawagos, or New Hartford ; Mrs. Berry's Tavern, a single house on the banks of the Genesee River, two hundred and forty-one miles. There is another Tavern on the Hill — a better House, but inferior accommo- dation to Mrs. Berry's. An open, well-settled country the whole of these twenty-five miles, especially the Township of Bloomfield,* which was the first settled, and is the most populous district in the Genesee. The quality of the Land is very different /"om what might be ex- pected from this circumstance; for instead of being one of the best, it is one of the worst tracts in the County — being a thin soil or gravel, consequently incapable of being heavily Tim- * " In November, 1804, a waggon load of Wheat containing " 100 bushels, was brought by four yoke of oxen from Bloomfield " to Albany, a distance of 230 miles. The Wheat was purchased " at Bloomfield fords, currency per bushel, (62f cents, or 2s. 9|d. " sterling) and sold at Albany for 17s. 3d. per busiiel, (two dollars " and 16| cents, or 9s. 8fd. sterling.) The journey going and " returning may be performed in twenty days, notwithstanding " the badness of the roads at this season." — Albany Gazette. O £ N E H E £ RIVER. 103 bered. Oak is the only Timber produced, and is much scattered, and without Underwood. Passed three schools. Conversed with a Settler anxious to remove W. of the Genesee River to the Holland Purchase, where he expected Land at two dollars, and to sell his own at four, five, and six dollars. Met a few Indians. Saw Blue Birds, Yellow Birds, King's Bird, Brown Thrasher, Jay, large black Woodpecker, a bird smaller than a Wren, and an Owl-like Hawk. Hazel Nuts almost ripe. Good Spring Water at Mrs. Berry's ; river now fordable ; the banks very high and steep; overflow in the freshets ; Land in New Hartford worth ten dol- lars per acre ; river water not very clear. Dine at Mrs. Berry's. 5 p. M. Proceeded on journey ; cross the river. Two hundred and forty- three miles, Baker's. Two hundred and forty-six miles, Dugan's ; intended to lodge here this night, but finding no stable for my horses, I proceeded to Stafer's, which I reached at 7 p. m. Two hun- dred and forty-nine miles ; this respectable farmer lives off the road in anew boarded house, the only one of that description between Mrs. Berry's and the mouth of the river. Stafer is the oldest Settler, Indian Allen excepted, on the Genesee River. When Stafer first settled on this River, about twelve years ago, there 104 G E N i: S C E FLATS. l' \ ' were not more than four or five families settled l»etween him and Fort Schuyler, (Utica) a din- distance of one hundred and fifty miles, and at this time there is a continued line of Settle- ments, including the towns of Cayuga, Geneva, Canadarqua, and the populous township of Bloomfield. '. ' •• Stafer's Farm consists of eight hundred acres, one hundred of which are a part of the cele- brated Genesee Flats, which have their northern termination at this place. The Genesee Flats, or Open Plain, is an extensive tract of land bor- dering the Genesee River, and I believe princi- pally the west bank of it : its extent I am not acquainted with. It terminates, as above men- tioned, at this place, and extends above Big- tree, which is miles from Stafer's. Captain Williamson, when speaking of this Plain, says, " where ten thousand acres itnj " be found in one body, not even encumbered ♦♦ with a bush, but covered with grass of such *' height, that the largest bullocks, at thirty feet " from the path, will be completely hid from the " view." Others have informed me, that they have seen the grass upon this Plain ten feet in height, and have had it tied over their heads whilst on horseback ! This Plain I entered upon the moment I crossed the Genesee River, and was much struck with its appearanee. To the O E N E H E K FLATS. lOo Ij N. and S. no eye could discover its extent ; it was bordered by the river to the E. and on the W. by the dark matted Forest of Ages. That no tree is to be found on this Plain, may be owing to its being- subject to the inundations of the River; and it is not improbable that it was once overspread by a Lake. Stafer informed me that he paid seven dollars a barrel for Salt, and that six dollars was the usual price. This he considered as one of the greatest hardships of his situation ; for the in- habitants of the Back Country are not only under the necessity of salting their provisions, but of giving Salt to their cattle, — to them so necessary, that they could not live without it. I have frequently seen my horse scrape with his teeth, and lick the manger, for the Salt which it had imbibed, to the neglect of his food, how- ever hungry. Wild animals resort to the Salt Springs, or Licks, which are dispersed through- out the Western country. My accommodations at Stafer s were very in- different, but the very particular attention and civility of this family made me full compen- sation. Tuesday, August 19th. I^ft Stafer's at 6 a. m. At two hundred and 100 <; F. N E N E K I. A N n I N (J . fifty-five miles, crosHcd a very dangerous bridge over Black Creek : this bridge was constructed of loose poles lai..f<((iuMii > Had a fine view, from the top of the bank, of the two lower Falls, of which I took a sketch. I next took a view of the great Fall. This being the most interesting, I left my horse in charge of my servant, and by a path which Col. Fish pointed out to me, descended to the bed of the River. My first project was to go under the Falls, in which 1 so completely suc- ceeded, as to penetrate to the centre rock, no GENESEE FALLS. li \\ m 111 i which divides the Fall into two parts. From the projection and curvature of the water when falling, and from the upper part of the precipice overhanging its base, the lower part having caved in from the action of the water and the spray, I had sufficiency of room ; but the spray wet me to the skin, and prevented my breathing freely. A cray-fish fell at my feet, which not a little surprised me, as I expected that every thing brought down by the current would be carried along with the body of water ; otherwise I risked being knocked on the head by some of the larger fish ! My situation was very singular. A river falling over my head ! On one hand, a dark black rock, the fragments of which had the appearance of slate-shiver, but were, in fact, an imperfect limestone ; on the other, an arch of waters, forming a canopy above me at the height of ninety-six feet, white with foam, and illumined by a bright sun ! With an eye hurried along with the precipitated river, my ears stunned with the raging tumulj;, and my whole frame, as the rock I stood upon, shaking with the concussion, I found myself in a scene which under no circumstances could be calmly contemplated ! Oozing from the rock, under- neath the Fall, I observed a Sulphur Spring, and also a Salt Spring. After coming from under the cataract, I took off all my clothe.«. O E N E S E K FALL », 111 and laid them in the sun to dry. I now swam across the River, and went under the eastern side of the Fall, as far as the centre rock before mentioned. On my return I entered the water higher than I ought to have done, and found that instead of descending the River, I was drawn towards the Falls. It immediately oc- curred to me that the pressure of the falling water upon the surface of the stream caused this attraction, and that I should be less ex- posed to it by diving; I adopted this expedient, which was probably the means of saving my life ; for it was with the greatest difficulty that I reached the western shore. Whilst resting to recruit my strength, I took two sketches of the Falls. The bed of the River is limestone rock, flat as a table, but piled in layers above each other, so that the River in some parts is very deep, and in others scarcely covers the surface of these flat rocks. I did not accurately exa- mine the width of the River at this place, but above the Falls, it appeared to be about one hundred and fifty yards wide. The banks of the River were upwards of two hundred feet high, being the same ridge which makes the Falls of Niagara. Following the ridge, Nia- gara Falls are not more than sixty-six miles from those of the Genesee, whilst, by the pre- sent route, it is at least seventy-six ; some make mi Hi GENESEE FALLS. it eig!ity-six, from tlie River at Hartford to Buffaioe Creek, from which you liave to de- scend at least twenty-five miles to the Falls of Niagara. The route by this ridge is not only fi-om thirty to forty miles nearer than that by Buffaloe Creek, but is a much better country to carry a road through ; this being high, dry, and tolerably level ; the other for a great part low and swampy. An Indian path is already marked out on this ridge to Niagara Falls, but is very difficult to distinguish ; at some future time, the main road to Niagara will be carried this way. The Main or Middle Falls, as already men- tioned, are ninety-six feet in height : he Lower Falls are fifty-four feet, being in fact two Falls, forming a pair of steps. Col. Fish remembers these Falls united in one pitch, which makes them differ essentially from the Middle Falls ; for in one case the rock wears away at the top, and in the other at the bottom. I have no me- morandum of the height of the Upper Fall at Fish's Mills ; it is, however, the most incon- siderable. Some day, perhaps, all the Falls will be united in one, like that of Niagara. — Rattlesnakes are frequently seen at these Falls. I now ascended the bank, which in some places is nearly perpendicular, and joined my servant, wLo had been waiting two hours and had began «■; O E N E S E E FALLS. 11.3 M il to fear some accident had befallen me. I found no Mosquitoes below the banks of the river, but they were troublesome in the woods. In a few minutes 1 joined Col. Fish at the Mills. These Mills were built in 1789, by a Mr. Allen, called Indian Allen, from his long residence among the Aborigines of this country, who on condi- tion of building them, had a tract of one hun- dred acres adjoining given to him by Mr. Phelps, the Mills to remain Allen's property. The Grist Mill is very ill constructed ; it is erected too near the bed of the River, and the race so improperly managed, that it is dry in Summer, and liable to back-water in Winter. It contains but one pair of stones, made from the stone of a neighbouring quarry, and which is found to be very suitable for this purpose. This Mill is not at present able to grind more than ten bushels a day ; were it in good order, it would gi ind sixty. This was the first Mill erected in the Gene~ee Country. It was not only resorted to by the inhabitants of Bradloe, Caledonia, Genesee Landing, &c. but by those living so far distant as Canadarqua. It is now almost entirely neglected, in consequence of being so much out of repair ; and the Settlers on the W. of the River are obliged to resort to the Mill at Rundicut, which from Bradloe is at least eighteen miles, besides having a river to cross. 3 114 GRNESKK R I V K R. <■} 1 l:'i| i 1 : "'^ HK :. . (' 9k ^ •1 H ffi* . l' Bi H ^B ;' I ^R H ' \ I jif .^ The Saw Mill is already ruined. Indian Allen, soon after the erection of these Mills, sold the property to Mr. Ogden, of Newark, New Jer- sey, who re-sold it to Captain Williamson, the present possessor. Captain W. perceiving the value of this property, proposes to huild a new and much larger Mill, a few feet higher than the present one. It will be then out of the way of ice and back-water ; and by taking the race from a more favourable part of the River, where in the driest seasons the channel has six feet water close alongshore., it will have a never- failing supply of water : and as, in consequence of the Falls, there must be a portage at this place, the race is to serve the purpose of a canal, not only to float logs to the Saw- Mills, but for the river craft to discharge and take in their lading. The Genesee River, above the Falls, may be about one hundred and fifty yards wide. In the whole distance between King's and Stafer's, fifteen miles, six of which you have the river in sight : there are three or four clearances ; the rest is through thick woods of Beech, Bass, Sugar-Maple, Tulip-tree, Oak, Hickory, Ches- nut, Butter-nut, Black Walnut, Dogwood, Iron- wood, and two or three Hemlock Fine. I ob- served White Pine on the opposite banks of the River, and could perceive the tops of those BIG SPRING. 115 en, the er- the the lew lan the the ver, six 'er- ice his ' a lis. in be In in be Pines which line the shores of Lake Ontario. — Saw Black and Ground Squirrels, Pheasants, and Wild Pigeons. — Horse-Flies and Mosqui- toes troublesome. • "■ ' ' ' . '. 7 p. M. Reached my old quarters at Stafer's, two hundred and seventy-nine miles. — Morning overcast. • • Heavy showers in the morning ; remainder of the day clear and pleasant. Wednesday, August 20th. 5i A.M. Mounted on horseback ; two hun- dred and eighty miles, Allen Creek ; two hun- dred and eighty-five miles, Baker's. I here took an Indian path, inclining S. W. and at two hundred and eighty-seven miles, fell in with the main Niagara Road. 8 A.M. Pie Tersen's Tavern at the Big Spring, two hundred and ninety-two miles ; got here a tolerable breakfast, and very good feed for my horses. The house was neat, and had two good beds. Capt. Williamson, the proprietor, has laid out a town, in acre lots, at this place, but at present two families only are settled here. Pie Tersen possesses twenty-six acres, which cost him three dollars per acre ; of his acre lot he has made an excellent garden, from whence he cut for me a water-melon. Within two II Ih ill M(J II I O SPRING. miles of the Big Spring is the Scotcli Settlement of Caledonia, containing about twelve families ; six other families are settled in the immediate neighbourhood of Caledonia. These Settlers purchased their land of Captain Williamson for three dollars per acre. Captain W. gave each family a cow, and supplied them with wheat for the tirst year; to be repaid in kind. He is also not to charge any interest for the first five years. After breakfast I visited the Big Spring ; it spreads over two acres, on a limestone bed. This small Lake never freezes ; at its outlet it has force and water sufficient to turn two, or more, large water wheels. The stream from this Spring falls into Allen Creek, on which Caledonia is situated, and which I crossed at two hundred and eighty miles. I was much entertained by observing a spe- cies of Snipe constantly fluttering near the sur- face of the water, from which they were very busy in picking up their food ; but this employ- ment met with constant interruption from a Pigeon-Hawk, whom they, however, baffled with the greatest facility. They did not appear to see the Hawk till they were, as it were, in his talons ; they then dipped into the water, but ihe im- mersion was so sudden — so quickly did they emerge again, I could scarcely perceive that O ANSON 8 TAVERN. 117 iate lers for ach for also they went under the water at all. A Duck, which was sailing quietly on the Spring did not come off so well ; I saw it shot with a rifle by Hotbread, an Indian Chief. He was an old Seneca Warrior between sixty and seventy years old, whose mother was still living. This venerable Princess, who, being named from a Sulphur Spring, is called Canawagos, or Stink-Hole, can be proved, I was informed, to be at least one hundred and twenty years old ! yet able to walk about and plant her own Maize. She lives surrounded by forty of her children, grand-children and great-grand-chil- dren, and some of the latter old enough to make her a great-great-grand-mother. The residence of this tribe is very near Hartford, or Can; .wagos. Hotbrea J's beard was about two inches long, but thin. He had a Nag with him whose ears were rimmed and tipt with silver ! 11 A. M. Proceeded on my journey; two hundred and ninety-seven miles, Ganson's Ta- vern. When my friend L passed this place last year, Ganson's was a solitary house in the Wildern ess, but it is now in the midst of a flourishing town,* in which twenty-one families * In tlie United States of America a Town is a District of con- si(lcrable.extcntt gen' rally six miles square. W If I ; .' 118 THE U' 1 L D E R N E 8 N. are already settled. A new Tavern and a num- her of dwelling-houseH were building. Two hundred and ninety-eight miles re-croHH Allen Creek ; the bed, a flat limestone Rock, fifteen or twenty yardn wide, with three or four inches of water. A handsome bridge was building. This Creek is the western termination of Capt. Williamson 8 purchase. 1 now entered into what is called the Wilder- ness. From fiaker's at two hundred and eighty five miles, to two hundred and eighty-seven miles, the face of the Country presented high "stony Land with scattered Oaks ; thence to two hundred and ninety-four miles same kind of limestone land, but not so hilly. At two hundred and ninety-four enter thick Woods of Beech, Sugar Maple, &c. in thin rich vegetable mould, covering a bed of stones. A very handsome Road, four rods or sixty - six feet in width, has been cut out the whole distance from the Genesee River to Ganson's, being twelve miles in nearly a straight line. 2 P. M. Reached the Holland Company's Storehouse and Walter's Tavern, three hundred and four miles and a half. The Holland Com- pany consists of a number of Merchants and others, principally resident in Holland, who purchased a very large tract of land of Mr. Morris. This territory, for such it may be U itOLLAND COMFANy'h LAND. 119 im- Otiti ck, iiir IS on er- ity en Kh .vo of GCI :h, d, y- le 8, t S i called, in on the East bounded by VVilliamson't) purcliasc, and on the West by Lake Erie and Niagara River; but its Northern and Southern boundaries 1 am not accurately acquainted with. No part of the Holland Company's Land is, 1 believe, yet settled, but at present under survey for that purpose. One of the principal Surveyors, and his gang, were at the Tavern, and fully occupied the lodging hut; this, with the additional circumstance of there being no hay for my horses, and no other feed than Oats cut green in the Straw, induced me to give up my design of sleeping here this night, but rather, push on to the next station. The Surveyor informed me that they put no dependance now on the Mariners' compass ; that it will frequently give ctn error of sixty rods (poles) or three hundred and thirty yards in ten miles ; that it gave an error of eij,* iy-four ihou- thousand acres in running the Ea«t line of Capt. Williamson's purchase, which was not discovered till after the deeds were signed and the money paid; the difference however, was generously yielded up by Mr. Morris to Cap- tain Williamson, who otherwise would not only have lost this quantity of land, but would have been cut off from Sodus Bay, Seneca Lake and the excellent situation of Hopetown Mills on the outlet of the Crooked Lake. i ii 1-20 DAVIS S TAVERN. II I ||: The life of these Surveyors is a vei7 dangerous one, being not only exposed to the inclemency of the seasons, but to the attack of Mosquitoes, Snakes and other troublesome and dangerous insects and reptiles. " " "^' ^'< ' ■ * t r . . i ; . ' Mrs. Walter complained that the emigrants from Pennsylvania and New Jersey were very insolent and thievish. -• 'f* «;■■ v ' - <■. 4 p. M. Left Walter's ; three hundred and nine miles, fell in with the Tanawantee Creek, sluggish, shallow and broad. 6i p. M. Reach Davis's Tavern three hundred and sixteen miles, near a small run of good water. This is one of those stations which the Holland Company have this year established for the accommodation of travellers, who, hi- therto, have been obliged to sleep in the woods. Davis first began to ply his axe in January last ; he has now a good log-house, a field of green Oats sown on the 18th of June, (the only feed I could get for ray horses,) and a very excellent garden, the most productive of any, for its size, that I have seen since leaving New York. He has also cleared a pretty extensive field which he will put into Wheat. On this land the logs were now burning, and I passed a great part of the night in making-up the fires. This em- ployment I preferred to harbouring with a number of strangers, one of whom was sick 1 1 'l ! r " i * P. II '} i , MAPLE SUGAR. 121 and not expected to live till morning. This, however, was only the fearful conjecture of Davis, for the Physician gave better hopes. I got some Maple Sugar to my tea, it was better prepared than what I generally met with at these log-huts : for unless sufficiently sepa- rated from its molasses, it has a disagreeable taste of the sap. When at Bath Mrs. Williamson gave me Loaf Sugar from the Maple, which was very white, and of a harder and closer grain than any manufactured from the Cane. It had no particular flavour to distinguish it from the West India Sugar. It was not, however, so sweet ; in other words, it would not go so far. The Backwoods of America abound more with the Sugar Maple than with any other Tree, at least I found it to be the case in the Genesee. The finest Trees of this kind that I ever saw were at the foot of the main Alleghany Ridge, near the Sweet Springs of Virginia ; they were clumsily tapped with an axe. In the Genesee, the Maple and other Whitewood Trees are cut. down in the Winter for fodder for the Cattle, which will eat all the smaller branches even to the thickness of a man's wrist. On hearing a Tree fall the Cattle set off full scamper to- wards it. It is only during four or five weeks in the Spring that the juice of the Maple can be col* w if I ! '» i 122 DA VIS 8 TAVERN. lected. The largest Trees, which seldom exceed six feet in diameter, will yield five gallons of sap in one day, though there have been Trees of that extraordinary size as to yield upwards of seven gallons a-da,y. One man may, in the course of a month, make from five to six hundred pounds weight of Sugar. In 1794 eighty-three families in Vermont made fourteen thousand pounds weight of Maple Sugar; and in 1791 forty fami- lies in Orange County made nearly the same quantity. Mr. and Mrs. Davis paid me every possible attention, but I cannot praise them for neat- ness. Perhaps I ought not to have expected it, when the peculiarity of this situation, and a large family of small children, are taken into consideration. From Allen Creek, two hundred and ninety- eight miles, to Walter's, three hundred and four miles and a half, was the counterpart of the Oneida Woods, of course excellent Land, and execmble roads. The tract just admitted room for a waggon. In a little time the mire holes would be impassable; the waggoner would then take his axe and cut out a new passage. From three hundred and four miles and a half, to Davis's at three hundred and sixteen, the road was somewhat better, but the woods the same. At Davis's the woods are composed I r H K W 1 L D K R N E S S. 123 of small tall saplings which were very closely crowded. i*; '^ This Morning experienced a very keen frost, with a bright sun. So late as 1 1 a. m. I stood in the sun to warm myself, my hands being much benumbed with the cold. Very scorching sun, and Flies and Mosqui- toes troublesome in the Afternoon, especially after leaving Walter's. Night moderate.- Slept in the gang-way be- tween the two huts forming Davis's house. Thursday, August 21st. G'^trt at day-break. Three hundred and eigh- te- 'as, leave the thick Woods and enter up ' wie Big Plains. These Plains are open groves of Oak in a light shallow soil on lime- stone. The Oaks are dispelled at widb inter- vals, and none, apparently, larger than two feet and a half in diameter. There is no underwood, but the ground covered, as it were, with Fern and Scrub Willow, or Tamarisk ; the Grass was therefore limited in Quantity and very coarse. These Plains are many miles in extent ; and it struck me that 1 had seen Park Grounds in England much resembling them. Three hundred and twenty-one miles the Oaks smaller and more compact. Three hundred and twen- R 124 T A M A M' A N T E E. ty-two miles, enter thick Woods of Beech, Maple, &c. . !,■- .<-_? .A>.Ui>.M;^ .} 7i A. M. Reach the Indian Town of Tana- wantee, three hundred and thirty miles. This Settlement is on the West banks of the Tana- wan tee Creek, which I now crossed for the second time ; it bore, however, a very different character here than at three hundred and nine miles, being clear and rapid. At Tanawancee reside from fifteen to twenty families of Seneca Indians, who are well supplied with fish from the Creek. Here, also, has been settled, from the year 1794, Paudit, a French Canadian ; he very cheerfully gave such refresh- ment to ourselves and horses as his slender means would afford. He conversed in very good English, and is well acquainted with the Seneca language. I could not refuse myself the pleasure of tickling Paudit's vanity. I informed him, that obscure as he might think his situation in an Indian Village, yet that his name was known throughout all Europe and America. That I had seen honourable mention of him in a splen- did French Work in eight volumes, which had been immediately translated, both in England and America, in consequence of the very exalted character of its author, who was no other than his noble countryman the Duke de Liancourt. Fuither 1 mentioned to him the ■I i WHIRLWINDS. 125 Duke's grateful acknowledgment of his services as his trusty guide through an American Wil- derness ! This incense was too grateful to Pan- dit's vanity, to permit him to accept any other compensation for the hospitalities of his house. Paudit treated my Horses with some good Hay, which they had been a long time without. Tanawantee is two or three miles to the North of the direct Road, which I was obliged to quit in consequence of the storm of the 8th Inst, having made it an impenetrable abattis. These Storms, or Whirlwinds, seldom extend more than two or three miles in breadth, but many hundred miles in length. In the autumn of 1792 one of these Storms was traced from the Upper Lakes of Canada, to the sea coast in Pennsylvania. Captain Williamson was at that time in the Genesee ; he heard the Storm roar above his head, and small branches of Fir fell at his feet, yet the Indians in cOiTCipany assured him that you must follow the West line of the Storm, at least three hundred miles, before you could meet with Pines ! A Storm of this kind tears up every Tree in its way. That on the 1st Inst, was much less violent, yet it twisted off all the upper branches of many trees, which it was not, from the shel- ter they received from others, able to overturn. One very hot calm day I had the satisfaction to I IT" 126 THE WILDERNESS. see a Whirlwind in miniature ; it was not more than twelve feet in diameter, and moved at the rate of about one mile an hour. It passed over a field of Maize, tearing off the dried leaves, and carrying them, with a circular motion, far high- er than my eyes could follow. A great body of leaves were constantly ascending, but I could not observe any come down again. I crossed the line of this Whirlwind to feel its force ; it was not so powerful as I expected from its effects in the Maize Field. Left Tanawantee and passed through open Plains of Oak, with less of the Tamarisk and more Grass, to three hundred and thirty-four miles, where I lell in with the old Road. I had now much difficulty in making my way through thick Woods of Beech, Maple, &c. to three hundred and thirty-six miles and a half; thence to three hundred and thirty-seven miles an Oak Plain ; again thick Woods of Beech, &c. to three hundred and forty-one miles ; and an Oak Plain for the next three miles lOi A. M. Ransom's Station; three hundred and forty-four miles. I was here greatly surprized with an excellent breakfast; a tender Chicken, and good loaf Sugar to my Tea. Ransom, like Davis, sat down in the Woods in January last. He has one hundred and fifty m 1,. THE WILDERNESS. 127 its pen md bur vay . to ilf; lies cb, md red ilit )af ds I acres, for which he is to pay three hundred dol- lars ; ten acres are cleared and in Oats. He has the advant^e of Davis, in being surrounded by the Plains, which afford Hay and Pasturage. The Holland Company have laid out a new Road from Ganson s to Bufialoe Creek, which passes to the South of Davis's Station, but falls in with the present Road at Ransom's. This new Route will make a saving of ten miles in forty-two. Ransom informed me, that by an account which he has kept, no less than one hundred and fifty-five families, with their waggons, have passed his house this Summer, migrating from Pennsylvania and New Jersey to Canada. Six- teen waggons passed in one day. l^ p. M. Rode through Oak Plains, but which presented very diflerent features from those already passed. These Oaks, instead of being regularly intermixed, were arranged in screens, or belts, enclosing Plains of very irre- gular figures, some very long and narrow, others of an oval and round form ; and from half a mile to two or three miles in diameter. On these open spaces there were very few Trees, and those very small ; but the belts were formed of Trees closely crowded. These Belts were seldom more than from twenty to sixty or eighty yards in width. The only \vay I could n 128 T H ii W I L D i: R N !•: H ». account for this appearance, was, that in the direction of these belts the soil was deeper than on the open spaces, where it scarcely covered the limestone rock. •* i v i..; • /rr^ >iM -i; $ Three hundred and fifty-two miles, the Eleven Miles Run. This stream passes over a smooth bed of limestone, and after heavy rain shews here a beautiful Cascade, having a picturesque fall of thirty feet. At present the Water escapes by crevices in the bed of the stream, before it reaches the fall, and re-appears at the distance of one hundred yards below the foot of the falls. Leaving ray horse to the care of my servant, I scrambled down to the foot of the falls, in hopes of finding those stones resembling agate, which Mr. Clay speaks of. I was disappointed in my search. My Route now lay through thick Woods of Beech, Maple, &c. to three hundred and fifty-five miles; then Oak Groves and Plains to three hundred and fifty-nip a miles, where the solitary axe of a Backwoods-man was at work. I now entered upon a new Road opened by the Holland Company, similar to that cut by Captain Williamson from the Genesee River to Ganson's. This Road is through very heavy timbered land. Following the Road three miles, the present extent of it, brought me to the Village of Bufialoe, on Bufialoe Cre^^k. Pal- B U F P A L O E CREEK. 120 mer's Tavern three hundred and sixty-two miles. aiiHHur, -. ' \ .;.)tJ.ia I'fi *» *.-! t k>',-.l From the Piazza of this Tavern I delightfully feasted my eyes on the expanse of Lake Erie ; the British Fort on the opposite Shore ; a gal- lant Fleet riding at anchor; the winding and rich Banks of Buffaloe Creek; and the Ri 'er Niagara taking its impetuous course from the Lake. ■ •" The Tavern was crowded with Indians. I observed two in very rich dresses of scarlet and green cloth. The great body of the six Nations are settled about eight miles from hence at a place called Great Buffaloe, on the same Creek, ; at which place they reckon about fourteen hundred Se- neca's; and four hundred more, composed of Cayugas, Onondagas, Tuscororas, and Dela- wares. As for the Mohawks, they removed under Colonel Brandt, to La Grande Riviere, in Upper Canada. The Indians on Buffaloe Creek live remark- ably well ; they possess, not only productive Fields and Gardens, and plenty of Fish, but they receive annually amongst them eight thou- sand dollars, being the interest of one hundred and twenty thousand dollars arising from the sales of their Lands ; principally those now pos- sessed by the Holland Company. 130 L A K R E R I F.. »' i Leaving Bufllaloe, I followed the shore of Lake Erie to its outlet. Tlie appearance and roaring of the waves were sucli a novelty to my Horses, that it was with difficulty they were made to approach sufficiently near, as to per- mit me to ride on the wet and firm sand. Three hundred and sixty-five miles, reached the ferry- house. . : . The setting Sun gave a fine glow to the Land- scape, richly illuminating the Lake, the River, the Fort and the Lake-Fleet moored in front of it, and which consisted of eight armed Schoo- ners from seventy to ninety tons each. Crossed the Niagara River in a Scow ; it is five furlongs, or five-eights of a mile wide, and the Channel thirty feet in depth. ;i -, • . -^ ■■•' - - - • • - -., (■, : . ■• .;■ t' ,■•1'.,.' .11 , ■ ..'■,) r ; I UPPER CANADA. i ,»' ■ y.i. Thursday, August 2l8t, 1800. 7i p. M. Wintermoth's Tavern; three hundred and sixty-six miles ; having rode fifty miles this day. At Sun-rise the Flies and Mosquitoes began to be very troublesome. At Ransom's the great Horse-Flies were so numerous and blood -thiraty that my Horses could not eat their food for them; yet Ransom informed me that there were very few compared to what had been during the more early part of the Summer, when they drove the Cattle from the Woods which he was obliged to protect with the smoke of large fires. They attack in silence, yet a Horse seems always sensible of their approach. Met with one Whortleberry-bush. Saw a young Bear, which, being in great want of food, I if ■t 1.V2 NIAGARA KIVRR. was sucking his hams, not paws ; which I was informed they will continue doing for hours together when hungry. — Warm day. — Strong breeze on the Plains. — Sultry evening. Iff I Friday, August 22d. ,_ 5a.m. Leave Wintermoth's. I was now on the banks of the Niagara River, and not more than seventeen miles from its celebrated Cata- ract. Had I been suddenly set down in .Fairy- Land I could not have been more alive to ex- pectation. My mind, too, was agitated by that pleasing tumult which those experience who are on the point of realizing, for the first time, the favourite wish of their heart. I pursued the course of the River by a very excellent road. This River possesses features, which, though frequently seen in Tide-water Bays, Inlets and on the Sea-Coast, yet rarely characterizes a running stream. Instead of the banks partak- ing of a straight or easy flowing line, they are a continuation of long points of Land making into the River, and as the Road follows the same line, the present travelled distance be- tween Fort Erie and Chippawa might be less- ened one half. C li 1 1> P A W A. 133 Ths Niagara is certainly a very noble Stream, but its banks are tame and void of all interest. The United States Shore was hid by La Grande Isle, covered with wood and unsettled. On the Canada side, the whole distance to the Falls, with little exception, is settled ; and that principally by emigrants from the United States since 1792. I only passed two boarded Houses, and those little larger than log-huts. I observed King-fishers, Pigeon-Hawks, Mot^s and Grasshoppers, but no Mosquitoes, and fp >7 Flies. During my approach to Chippawa, I had, for many miles, observed a heavy smoke arise on the Canada side of the Niagara, which I attributed to the burning of logs, on a piece of Land then clearings but when within two miles of Chippawa, 1 evidently perceived that what I considered as smoke, arose from the River, and it then occurred to me that it was the Spray of the Falls. I stopped my Horse and could distinguish the roaring of the Waters, from its gradual introduction upon my ear, the noise of my Horse's feet, and the absorp- tion, as it were, of all my other senses in that of vision. 8^ A. M. Reached Macklam s Tavern, Chip- pawa, three hundred and eighty miles, ti/iving breakfasted, I set out on foot for the Falls ; the distance is three miles by the Rf ac, but not 134 THE RAPIDS. i i |i more than two by the line of the River. I fol- lowed the Banks of the River, having the spray in sight. At first I found that I could keep pace with some drift Wood, but which, on reaching the first small breaker, or rapid, began to be carried on faster than a Horse could trot. As I ap- proached the Falls, the Banks of the River became higher and higher, owing to the decli- vity of its bed, for the ground preserves the same level both above and below the falls. At the beginning of the great Rapids the River- bank is at least one hundred feet high. These Rapids are highly beautiful. There are those who admire them aia much as the Falls themselves. They certainly would alone make a fine picture ; they extend upwards from the edge of the Fall about eight hundred yards, and have a declivity in this distance of about seventy feet, which declivity is very perceptible to the eye. The bed of the river is here very shallow, and thickly strewed with rocks, but which do not appear above the surface, except those along the north-west edge of Goat Island. Those who have seen heavy and dangerous breakers on a rocky sea-coast, may form a good idea of these Rapids. From the high bank on which I now stood, I beheld at my feet a plot of cultivated ground, im " ■ i' iu THF BAf»>E>*. ^,1 ,i yii m If.!' i; ■'^i«rf' wiore than two by the line of ttie Kiver. 5 fol- lowed thf> Banks of the Uiver, haviiig-the spmy in stijht. ' At first Tfotm^iflMW* f«**-'!*k-^ k-<^.p pare with v»m«» drift- Wootl, l5««it W'-Srtk'ifc"'** 'St. ♦!-'•■• I^J«^ -wwaH ttfest^ker* t>r rapid, lM«ga» ti'* *«•• tarnt'd <*» fe»t€*«-th?i,u vt llors^* couM timt. As I ap- proHche*! thm Falb, the Banks of ihv Eivor befani? highfrr and hig-her, owing ta the decli- vity of its bed, for the grovind preserves th<* same 3evc?l l>oth above and below the iaib. At tlK» kigintiiDf of the jirreat }la^»4s tne liUvtu- iHd»n ""^ ■ f^tr-n %:? uividi as the FfiU» Ijhtffawfri > ^ ."sy certaifily would alone make a fine [tictnre : they extend upwards from the %dfe of the Fall abont eight hundred yards, and Kavf si d#»r!ivilf i« th^ 4iiJta«ce of about 'Ifebtifittlf fe'-'f: whiffk- -rL«=^:^^t'ii«y si^'vii**^ j»«r<:teptiWe ^hrt\\F.-p;, miiii thickly stffiwed t»^ . rs;>»^:«, but o «*»t Hpjjear altjove the surface, except t!v4.i*i«i^ *«»*»*^;^^ ^hf nor»h-west edge of Goat lr>land. 1PB«(I* ;v .t'ijn heavy and dangerous breaker; rdijky *eft-coast, inay form a good idea of th*-'v.' Hapids.; '•'' ' ;■-■'*' t^fv'' '. - From tJH* i fh bank on which I now -;tood, 1 beheld at nt^ ^M-t a plot of cultivated gronitd, % .1 . 1 ^ 1^ \\ \' r 1 1 it ri 'i P^^ 1, ' 11' Jill TABLE UOCK. 135 mills and houses— ^the Rapids — a mill-race formed in the Rapids — an island dividing them, and beyond, Goat Island, dividing the River and the Falls. Descending by a very steep and difficult road, I came to a deserted distillery, where I stopped to recover breath, and to allay my thirst at an excellent spring. I next pene- trated a close thicket, interrupted almost at every step by small streams of water ; the roar- ing of the cataract I took for my guide : emerg- ing from the tangled thicket, I found myself upon the Table Rock, and the Niagara River dashing over it at my feet ! — Vain would be the attempt to describe my sensations at this mo- ment ! I was standing on the same rock from which the river is hurled ; this, rushing at my feet, and the precipice yawning below them. To gain a more favourable station, I crept upon my hands and knees to a projection of the rock, which, by a sudden curve at this place, was di- rectly opposite to a huge column of falling water, if water it could now be called ; — for the velocity of the current, the resistance of massy rocks in the Rapids, and the present resistance and admixture of another element, had lashed it into foam, white as the driften snow, and so compact as to resemble a falling body of pure vegetable cotton. - • This beautiful column of water, (for so must I 1 |« 136 FALLS OF NIAGARA. ^ r ir^ I. I I i ; I A I call it,) 80 near as to be almost within reach, and in such bold reiie^io to the rest of tlie Fall, most irresistibly seized my attention ; my eye followed it into the profound below, and when raised, was again attracted, and again plunged T^ith it into the gulf. Thus, for a time, was I insensible to my perilous situation : I had crept upon a projecting slab of the rock, not more, I believe, than four feet, perhaps less, in thick- ness, and overhanging the base of the rock which supported it full fifty feet! This slab has probably since fallen, as these rocks are con- stantly caving in, and the cataract receding. After making good my retreat, I shuddered at the danger that I had been in, but to which the absorption of my faculties, by su imposing a scene, and my eagerness to gain tlie most favour- able point of view, had not permitted me in the first instance to advert. I must repeat, that vain would be my endeavour to describe my sensations at this my first view of the Cataract of Niagara — the grandest spectacle of the kind in the known world ; one of Nature's sublimest features. A majestic river, suddenly contracted into less than half its former space, is, after dashing over a bed of loose rocks, amongst which it has a fall of seventy-one feet in about eight hundred yards, precipitated, roaring, as it were , with very terror, into a dark abyss, OOAT ISLAND. 137 dashed into foam by its fall, and throwing up a thick cloud of spray- — a cloud that is seen to hang over the Falls, by those navigating the Lakes Erie and Ontario, by spectators one hun- dre<1 miles distant from each other ! When to the impression made upon the eye, is added that made upon the ear, your senses partake of the tumult of the scene — a scene which seemed to give me a new sense ; a sense of the vast, the grand, and the sublime. The line of the Falls, following the curve, and the face of Goat Island, is three quarters of a mile in length ; the River at Chippawa, two miles higher, is two miles in width. Goat Island, as already mentioned, divides the Falls of Niagara into two parts ; but the great bulk of water rushes down the Canada side, which has not only more than twice the breadth of the other, but being twelve feet nine inches lower, causes a greater draught, inso- much that in the centre of the Horseshoe, so called from the curved nature of this Fall, the body of falling water is supposed to be fifty feet in diameter, preserving its unbroken blue colour, being too compact a body to be dashed into foam. It is from this column of water that arises the cloud of spray. The Rapids, on the United States side, begin eight hundred and fourteen yards, or about half a mile above the S-f| I Ilk f' ll ii ll ii) lii 13R FALLS OF N I A (i A It A. Palls ; ill this distance then is a Fall of titty- seven feet eleven inches, which added to one hundred and forty-nine feet nine inches, the per- pendicular pitch on that side, gives a total of two hundred and seven feet eight inches. The perpendicular pi£ch on this, the Canada side, is only one hundred and thirty-seven feet. The day was highly favourable to a good view of this noble scene : a bright sun, hid at intervals by passing clouds, gave a great variety of lights and shadows, the spray forming an Iris. A painter might here study to great advantage. This Cataract, bursting upon the sight, after forcing a toilsome passage through dark and dreary forests, and contemplated in the wild and native dress which Nature gave it, must have more potently struck the senses, and roused the feelings of its first visitors, than it can now do of those who view it surrounded with mills and houses, and cultivated fields.^ ^ " Betwixt the Lake Ontario and Lake Erie, tliere is a vast and " prodipous Cadence of Water, whicii falls down after a sur- " prising and astonishing manner, insomuch thut the Universe " does not afford its parallel. — This wonderful Downfall is about " six hundred feet, and composed of two great cross-streams of " water, and two Falls, with an Isle sloping across the middle of " it. The Waters which fall from this horrible precipice, do foam "and boil after the most hideous manner imaginable, making an " outrageous noise, more terrible than that of thunder; for when " the wind blows out of the South, their dismal roaring may be 1' A L L S OF N I A (i A R A • 139 Perceiving a very heavy thunder-gust coming on about 3 p. m. I returned to Chippawa, which " heard more than fifteen leagues (45 miles) nfT. The Niagara " River, at the foot of the Falli, is a quarter of a league " (1320 yards) broad." — Father HennepiiCt (Missionary) Tra- vels from 1679 to 1682, dedicated to King William. — London, printed in 1698, in 2 vols. p. 533, illustrated with Maps and Figures, " As for the Waterfall of Niagara, 'tis seven or eight hundred " feet high, and half a league (one mile and half) broad. To- " wards the middle of it we descry an Island that leans towards " the Erecipice, as if it were ready to fall. All the beasts that " cross the water within half a quarter of a league (660 yards) " above this unfor..unate Island, are sucked in by force of the " Stream. Between the surface of the water, that shelves off '* prodigiously, and the foot of the precipice, three men may " cross it a-breast without any other damage than a sprinkling " of some few drops of water." — Baron La Hontaine^s Travels from 1683 to 1694. Dedicated to the Duke of Devonshire. — London, printed in 2 vols, in 1703, p. .'382, illustrated with 23 Maps and Cuts. Father Charlevoix, who visited the Falls of Niagara in 1720, judged the Fall to be 140 or 150 feet; the form a horse-shoe, and 400 paces in circumference. Divided in the middle exactly by a very narrow Island, about half a mite long, which comes to a point at the Fall. Supposes that some of the water falb into a Cavern, as the noise is very dead, like Thunder at a distance, and that nothing re-appears of all that has fallen into it — as the wreck of a canoe, or the bodies of Indians. At a distance one would take the mist arising from it for smoke. One cannot go ten steps vrithout walking upon an ant-hill, or meeting with rattlesnakes. It does not appear that Captain Carver, whose Travels in North America were from 17()<) to 1768, visited the Falls of Niiiifara; waving any description on account of their having been so iVrqiiently (loBcrihrd. He, however, says he heard them T l^ ^ 140 F A h L S OF N' I A (i A R A . ; mt .■; '\ hi m ] had scarcely readied before tlie storm burst over liead. At the Cataract, it was a tremen- dous strife of the four elements for mastery. • i ' - t twenty miles off; and that others nsflertcd that the sound of them reaches 45 miles. Carver gives the Full at 140 feet, and nearly as much Fall in tlie River between the Fall and Queenstown. The Duke de Liancourt visited the Falls of Niag^ara in 1795. He describes the River Niagara as increasing in breadth till it reaches Chippawa, where it is three miles wide, when the rapidity of the stream is much increased by the sudden contraction and inclination of its bed. He then introduces the following fanciful ubservation: — " Apr^s un pays presque plat, inie chaine de rocs " tr^s-blancs s'^leve ici aux deux c6t^-s du fleuve, ri-duit ii la *' largeur d'un mille; ce sont les Monts Alleganys qui ont, pour *' arriver t ce point, traverse tout le Continent de l'Am^>rique '• dcpuisla Fioride." De Liancourt mentions the Fall as 160 feet. lie gives a terri- ble account of the difficulties he experienced on his descent to the bed of the Riv^r to see the Falls from below. He «ays one may go under the Falls, bub does not say that he did go under them. The description of the Falls from the Table Rock is con'ectly and admirably given as follows: — " M. de DIacons nous a conduit d uu point cnnnu dans Ic " pays sous le nora de Table Rock; c'est une partie du Rocher " d'oA le fleuve se pr^!cipite, un s'y trouve jl la hauteur dc son " lit, et presque dans scs caux, de maniere que I'on voit dans " unc enti^rc s^curit*3 le torrent fondre sous ses pieds, ct qu'on " y serait entrain^ soi-ui6uie, si Ton avau(,'ait deux pas de plus? " lA on jouit d-la-fois du beau spectacle de ces euux ecumantes, " arrivant i\ grand bruit par-dessus les Rapides de cette ^tonnante " Cascade dont rien nc s^pare, et du Bassin tournoyant ou elle " s'engloulit. C'est ccrtainement de ce lieu que cette merveille " de la Nature doit ^trecontcmplee, si on ne vent la voir que d'un " seul; mais il fuut la regarder de tons les points, et de tons on " la trouve plus belle, plus merveilleuse, on en est plus ^tonn6, plus " frapp^ d'admiration, de stupe-faction. II' I l" A L L 8 OF N I A U A If A 141 Instead of euting a solitary dinner an 1 ex- pected, I found a party had collected during iny absence, consisting of Mr. Murray, of Chippawa ; Mr. Steadman, of Fort Schlusser ; " La ChAte de Niagara tie peut ^tre compar^e & rien; cc n'est " pas de I'agrdable, ni dii daiivage, iii du romantique, ni du beau " mfirre qn'il faiit y aller chercher ; o'est du iiurprcnant, du ** merveilleux, de cc Hublime qui saiift il-la-fois toutes les facult^s, " qui »'en empare d'autaut plus profond^ment qu'on le conteniple " d'avanta^^e, et qui laisse tuujours ceiui qui en est saisi dans i'im- " puissance d'exprimer ec qu'il f-prouve." — Voyage dims les Etats-Unit d'Amiriqite, fait en 1795, 1796, ^ 1797. Par La Hochafoticanld- Liancourt. ii Paris, Van 7 de la Republique. Weld, who visited the Falls of Niagara in 1796, says, the pitch of the Fall on the United States side is 160 feet, and 142 feet on the Canada side; and that their breadth is as follows: — YARDS. Breadth of the Horseshoe Fall ■ . . . 6pU Goat Island 350 the Small Fall 5 the Small Island 30 Fort Schlusser Fall - - - - 350 Total .... 1335 Being fifteen yards more than three quarters of a mile. , Weld further says, that though he himself did not hear the Falls half a mile off, yet that it may be heard forty miles ofF, nnd that he saw the spray when distant from it fifty-four miles. He describes the Table Rock as forty feet above the bed of the River, although it is upon the same level with it. He says that the Rock is perceptibly wearing away, as the Cataract has re- ceded many yards within the memory of man; and that the River was formerly much shallower than it now is. The quantity of water which passes over the Falls he estimates at 670,255 ton in a minute. He also FORT S (} H L H S S F, R . York laid claim to Mr. Steadman s property, as being 'within their right to a mile in depth along the River. Captain Williamson so far befriended him as to get an Act passed in the Lower House of the Legislature of New York, that Mr. Steadman should retain so much of his property as was improved, amounting to fifteen hundred acres ; but Mr. S. has little hopes of his Bill passing the Upper House. In the mean time some lawless persons took possession of the property. Steadman, how- ever, again repossessed himself. In conse- quence of these circumstances the property has been suffered to go to ruin and waste: there still remains, however, an excellent Orchard, from which its proprietor one year received a profit of five hundred dollars for the fruit, besides amply supplying his own family. This Orchard is sometimes robbed by boys, who cross the River below the Falls in a canoe. Fort Schlusser is now a ruin. We took for our guide to the Falls a Here- fordshire man, of the name of Coldrakes, who came to this country with Philip Steadman, elder brother to the John Steadman already mentioned. Quenched our thirst at an excel- lent Spring near the Rapids, which on this side, also, are very beautiful. After passing the race of an old Saw-mill, we reached the brink >perty, depth so far in the York, ich of ng to little [ouse. took how- !onse- ty has there hard, ved a fruit. This who anoe. Here- who man, ready xcel- this ?the >rink ^ ^ 'J W ^ h i ^ ^ (J » A f, l*«» '^ F K 1 A I. * R A. I4rr .■t* iiwic. |?^'ti»r4%, the Hoj'!*«wsh*>*« . m> ;ik**vd*^^ :^'htvngU 1 lUiiiitiott '«••■•* . ^^7^!N«»«* fwM>i <3K? n^m l«>r th« painter, -' fti^f^m Uu' Um em-fiiktim W \miUmhtr ■«»>{-■■ ,^ r-'""''-^-'' U5 ^-j Mi^w tiie fails, but • ■''^■•*- •■-'-"■ ..n-.H.*ii 4+1- vv©* tjtefc*'.'' ^Afs no de- "7"f'^ tjKU-l", i««.'U --fj-il ^' fvwv 'hf Hives the 'ieafi " fc;K,rfc^-i l#«!ii^. :#Vf4i.ut? «h«!'. «;W ,^isHi' j^iiV, Wi'tJlJj pf'iHM- ■ •.■;,^M^^^^' !v^i*n m-i i't^'Mf^ ■ ' #- M. **i ..-t^t •St. \?; PALliS OF NIAGARA. 147 of tl»e Fjill. This is certainly the most hand- some and the most picturesque view of the falls of Niagara. From thi* point of view the two Falls blend into one picture, the Horse-shoe Falls presenting themselves in fine perspective. I here made two sketches.. Though I mention this as the best point of view for the painter, yet the best station for the spectator is undoubt- edly Table Rock. If the United States side presents you a more beautiful arrangement of the scenery, it is only from the Canada side that you can behold it in its sublimity. It was ray intention to go below the Falls, but Coldrakes informed us that there was no de- scent but by a rope; I considered this mode as too dangerous, therefore relinquished my design. Coldrakes had frequently been upon Goat Island with Mr. Philip Steadman. The man- ner of reaching the Island is to cross the River two miles above, so far as to reach the dead water occasioned by the Island dividing the River into two Currents. From the Island a bar stretches far up the River, which princi- pally enables yon to reach the Island, as you pole your canoe along this bar. Goat Island contains one hundred and iifty acres of good Land: Mr. Steadman once raised a remark- ably fine crop of Turnips upon it. It takes, V ri i!^ 14U O O A t ISLAND. its name from a venerable goat which long re- sided upon it ; other animals had been landed at the same time with the goats, but they could not survive the first winter, when every thing on the Island is incrusted with ice from the frozen spray of the Falls. Coldrakes is assured that much of the Island has fallen down since he first was acquainted with it. He offered to conduct mo there, but 1 trembled at the offer ; and was not the better reconciled to it by his relation of the following adventure : — That he and a companion, crossing from Fort Schlusser, had the misfortune to break an oar ; from the agonized spectators, help was vain ; — they saw the boat hurried along by the current, and put up an ejaculatory prayer for their lost friends. Life is dear;— and perhaps there is not an axiom better worth acting upon than that " whilst there is life there is hope!" Under similar circumstances, an Indian was seen to shroud his head in his blanket — extend himself in the bottom of his canoe — resign him- self to the mercy of the stream, and dash down the current ! The most careful search was made below, but neither the body of the Indian, nor a fragment of his canoe was to be found. . The remaining oar was left in the hands of Coldrakes ; this he instinctively, as it were, COLDUAKES ADVENTURE. Uy plied to leeward with all the skill and strength which his spirits, aroused and quickened by his desperate situation, supplied him with : fatigue he felt not — if he had, the moment lost in changing the oar into his friend s hands, would have been destruction. Coldrakes' back was fortunately to the danger, yet he saw no hope in the stupor of his companion : he perceived, however, the boat slanting towards the shore. In shooting the first Rapid she almost fi'led. Straining every nerve, he brought the beat to rub the banks y — she took the ground ; — 1 e had just strength to spring on land ; but when he cast a wild look at the yawning abyss, roaring for its prey, he felt his heart sink within him ; and he afterwards confessed, that had the same terrors come over him whilst exposed to the danger, he never should have escaped it. Coldrakes pointed out to me the spot where the boat was stopped by a small projection of (he land ; it is now the entrance of the Mill- race, and not apparently one hundred yards above the Falls. Had they passed that par- ticular point, their destruction was inevitable. I gathered a few wild plums, of the size of the damson, but of a reddish orange colour ; they were lyell favoured. We saw a number of very large ant-hills, on which a Bear had left tlu' print of his pjiwiii, and other marks of hiis I I') 9 I" I I . . 150 11 A T 1" L E N N A K C S. having searched them lor a fiivourite food. Their track is very similar to that of a Hare. Bears live in the clefts of the rocks below the Falls, as do also Wolves ; and 1 may add Rattlesnakes, which are found in great number and extraordinary size. Coldrakes assured me that he had kille. 1 one having twenty-four rattles. I never heard of one having more than eighteen, and very few people have seen them with as many as fourteen. It is known, how- ever, that there are few old snakes but what have lost some of the joints of the rattle by accidents ; they are very brittle. The usual antidote for the bite of the Rattlesnake is the Broad Leaf Plantain. Mr. Wm. Cuyler gave an Indian a valuable consideration to show him what his tribe considered as the best antidote ; the Indian showed him the Wild Solomon's Seal. Coldrakes said that he knew none equal to what he called Poor Robin's Plantain, and which he de?-cribed as only growing in moun- tainous countries. Captain Lawton met us at Fort Schlusser on our return. He re-crossed the River at the same time '•vith us, but instead of poling up the shore, he pulled his canoe dirtctly across — an act of ttmerity in which no one has yet dared to vie with him. Mr. Steadman remembers when no boat or canoe dared even venture so low down as Chippawa. CHIP 1» A W A V U E UK. un i 'Wild Fowl, alighting liigli up the river, are sometimes, in the night, carried down the FallH : not seeing tlieir danger, they allow the stream to carry them too fai, its rapidity and descent not allowing them to take wing. Ducks and Gulls acquainted with the Falls, have been seen within one hundred yards of the pitch, but thev are careful to swim with their heads down the stream, for with their breasts to the current, they cannot take wing. IVIr. Steadman assured me that the Niagara River increases in depth, and consequently that the volume of water which passes the Falls is considerably augmented. Formerly the River opposite to Chippawa was very low in the Summer months ; and Mr. S. remembers hav- ing once seen the bed of the River dry from the Fort Schlusser side to the bar running from the South point of Goat Island. The channel in this part of the River is now fifteen feet in depth. — Saw a Fishing-hawk with a large fish in its claws. In the evening took a walk three miles along the Banks of the Chippawa Creek, navigable forty miles for bateaux, and settled the whole of that distance. This creek divides the town of Chippawa. — No clouds; powerful sun; plea- sant air. u ^. , When in the Genesee, 1 heard different opi- nions as to the possibility of penetrating under, the Falls. Mr. Morris, of Canadarqua, in two different visits to the Falls, had failed. Capt. Williamson, Mr. L , and others, I under- stood, had succeeded. Respecting these latter^ they must have either considered the going under a small stream,, separated from the main River» as going under, the Falls ; or, that the air does not at all times rush from the cavity with the same force as, during this visit of mine. The difficulty atr tending this enterprize was corroborated by the, information I afterwards received from Mr.. Bender living near Mrs. Siracoe's Ladder, and from Lieutenant Crawford, commanding at Chippawa.. ^ / Bender, in company with three Settlers, de- termined as a Sunday's frolic, to go under the* Falls. After a few ineffectual attempts, one man very desperately rushed under this liquid arch, instantly fell, and \nth difficulty crawled back again : this was the only successful in- stance that Bender was acquainted with. Lieutenant Crawford had accompanied four different parties to the Falls, and there was al- ways contention who should first succeed in FALLS OF NIAGARA. 155 getting- under them ; yet, familiarized as he is to the place, he never succeeded himself, nor witnessed success in others. The same features which distinguish the Great Fall of the Genesee, were repeated here on a larger scale. The rock was caved'-in, and consisted of a black rock, as a vast quan- tity of rock-shiver, like slate-shiver, was ac- cumulated under and near the Falls ; yet Table Rock and the bed of the River is limestone, which extends, as I was informed, many hundred miles to the Westward, and as far as the Genesee River to the East. I heard no Southern boundary assigned to it. I observed here, as well as at the Genesee Falls, a Sulphur Spring oozing out of the black rock near the Cataract. I met with a dead Snake near the Falls, and in scrambling over the rocks, started a Racoon. On my return I met four frolicsome girls, and two men and four boys fishing ; so that it ap- pears that the Sunday, even in this remote part of the world, if not kept as a holy day, is at least considered as a holiday. One of the men stood like Patience on a Rock, poizing a spear, and expecting a Sturgeon ; — the boys, with far humbler views, were content to catch Pickerel and Cat-fish. Salmon come up to the foot of the Falls. X l.^fi SKETCH OF THK FALLS. The spray having completely wet me to the skin, I undressed, and whilst my clothes were drying, I refreshed myself by bathing ; a fissure of a rock in which the water entered, served as an excellent bathing-house. In another rock I discovered a natural grotto, in which I took shelter from the sun, whose rays were extremely scorching, owing to the reflection of the spray, which at the same time impeded the circulation of the air. -i ; " . .■>.-> ' The spray extends to a considerable distance from the Falls ; I felt it the moment I descended Mrs. Simcoe's Ladder. Seated in the grotto, I took a sketch of the Falls. From every point of view below the Falls, they present two dis- tinct pictures. The best point for the painter, on the Canada side of the River, would, I think, be from Bender, provided that a screen of pines, hiding the Horseshoe Falls, was cut down. To the spectator there is no view of the Cataract so impressive as that from Table- Rock. Before I left the foot of the Falls I shud- dered when I cast my eyes upwards and beheld the slab on which 1 had outstretched myself during my first visit, and which so frightfully overhung its base. The ground was strewed with massy fragments of the cliffs which had fallen down, and a little time would probably add this to the number. id, Hi' I h lU m S K K T f^ H or T H r FALLS. The spray having romplotcly wet, xne to the i»kin, 1 undressed, and whilst ruy clothes wei^ drying', I refreshed rnftf'Ifhy bathing; a fissurf: of a rock in which -of^'^'fl, served a« Ml «.v*r*#*M<»nt ^latbn . „*; v^itipi nH:k,I' d^'ovt^ft'd a natnnM gw»tr n i Hn^k »fc**lt«'r fttwfi dw «ia), whose rays wercfixtremely »f!9rchiiig, owing to the reflection of the »pray, which at the same time impeded the eirculation of the air. • ?' 'The !>pray extends to a eonsideranttr! t«. Falls, wiw cut 4owii. To the i«|>e(:lator there is no view of the •.h. 1 ishud- ' .ij>«'aid8 and beheld outstretched myself I which. so friwhtfnllv I'ive ground wfis strewet^ >1 the cliffii whh.h had . > !e tim^ would prohaKH I** ■ tinct pu Jures de-. the slai during v. overhung i- with massj fallen down add this to thr »tu«>b«?r. 11: ■J ? ^ ^ Q H T H K FALLS BY M O u N L I O H T. lo7 I gatliered ii specimen of the Black or Under Rock, another of the Superficial or Upper Hock,* also, some Spar, and a substance very soft, and as white as snow, which, rather than be at a loss for a name, the fisherman told me was congealed spray ! I now attempted to ex- plore the shore below Mrs. Simcoe's Ladder, but after scrambling over a few rocks, I found the River ran close in with the Cliffs, and con- sequently was obliged to return. Nothing fur- ther presenting itself to my curiosity, I ascended the Ladder very much fatigued, having been four hours below. From the top of the Ladder 1 took another sketch of the East, or United States Falls, being a good point of view. ' Met with Mr. Macomb, of New York, at Chippawa, by whom I sent a few lines to Mr. Morris, of Canadarqua. In the evening went and took a Moonlight View of the Falls. — This day no clouds ; sun very scorching ; hazy. Monday, August 25th. ' ' "' , • . . * 8 A.M. Left Chippawa; turned ofT the main road, descended the steep bank, and rode to * These substances were analyzed, but not accurately, by Dr. Moyes. The Black-rock was an imperfect limestone, containing a large portion of clay : it was precisely the same as the under- stratum of the Genesee Falls. The specimen of the upper- stratum, which forms the bed of the river, was a very perfect and pure limestone, Th? white substance was g-ypsum. im T 11 K l< A I' 1 1) H. I the edge ul' the River near the Mill-racu; din- mounted and remained half an hour to sketch the Rapids. The eAect wan far more {^rand than when Meen from above ; it wan a 8ea of Breakers ! The Fall is ho conHiderabie as to Nhut out the sight of Land when looking up the Rapids. I am surprised that painters have ne* glected the Rapids. 1 could not pass Table-Rock without paying it another visit. I was now contirmed in iny opinion, that this view is superior to the view from below. The air was uncommonly clear, and the Falls appeared to the greatest advan- tage. I took a final sketch of this noble object. .i/ ' . ;, , ,, i„,,: .; ,; ^ ,;; ':'. ■ . -' \ ,,>'K'r\ Bruce dipped his goblet into the Source of the Nile! — With more humility, but perhaps with greater thirst, I, on my hands and knees, drank of the Falls of the Niagara ! Two hours had nearly passed before I had resolution to leave the Rock ; the greater my intimacy with the Falls, the more they won upon my affections. I was now going to take leave, and perhaps for ever, of an object, to attain a sight of which, had been a principal design of mine for many years ; — an object that for these last four days had been " my ever new delight!" — an object that J. O , Esq. a gentleman of i U U K e N H I'd W N. IftU the IjUW ill New Yurk, was this Suiiiiuer in- duced to visit, who, to have a better view of the FallM, would not deign to dismount, but at the first sight, exclaimed, *' Is that all?"' and rode on ! — So true is that trite saying, •* Many men — many minds !" Noon ; arrived at Queenstown ; Fairbank's Tavern, three hundred and ninety miles. The distance from Queenstown to the Falls by the line of the River, is eight miles and three quar- ters : the greater part of this distance is well settled. I had no view of the River after leaving Table-Rock. — Buck-wheat Was in flower. Queeiistown is at the foot of the Table-land. From the brow of the ridge above Queenstown the prospect is very extensive; the principal objects are, the River and Fort Niagara, unless I include Lake Ontario, which bounds the horizon to the North-East. The Niagara is not navigable higher than Queenstown, consequently ttiere is a portage from this place to Chippawa, which employs numerous teams, chiefly oxen; each cart being drawn by two yoke of oxen, or two horses. 1 passed great numbers on the road taking up bales and boxes, and bringing down packs of peltries. Fourteen teams were at the wharf waiting to be loaded. Here were also three schooners : in one of them, the Genl. Simcoe, 1(30 SALE OF HORSES. Mr. Ogilvy, and friends, had taken their pas- sage, and secured one for me. I here met with my friend Faudit, of Tannawantee. ^Hna^i^^u 1 gat down to a miserable dinner at Fair- bank s Tavern, and ajler dinner sent my intro- ductory letter to Col. Hamilton from his friend Mr. Bache, of New York, which procured me an invitation to supper. The goodness of my supper made amends for the badness of my dinner. — Col. Hamilton has a good house and garden. — Very warm day. ; . , Tuesday, August 26th. f f.^,; Walked to the summit of the ridge before breakfast; breakfasted with Mr. Clarke; sold my horses to Mr. Innis for one hundred dollars, being seven dollars and fifty cents gain. My horses had very much improved by the journey ; Lewis was an excellent groom, and had taken good care of them. I expected at least one hundred and twenty dollars for the young Bay, which I had bought at Canajoharee. He would have fetched two hundred at New York ; vet I felt myself much obliged to Mr. Innis for giving me one hundred for the two. The market had been overstocked ; no other person would buy them at any price. Mr. Innis did not want them : he was on the point of setting out for the Grande Portage, and expected, therefore, T H K W n 1 U L I» () () L. IGl tliat in consequence of their low price he could afford to pay for their keep till his return. Gave Colonel Hamilton eighty-eight dollars and eighty-seven cents and a half in gold for a Bill at par for twenty pounds sterling, being John Monroe's first and second of exchange on Brooke Watson. ;fu: M^.n ,iii!-« . •nu'': v.l *,;! i Made a party to see the Whirlpool, distant four miles up the River. 1 was very much dis- appointed in its appearance, the River being very low. It was still curious ; and is caused by a sudden bend in the Channel. The Banks are remarkably high ; they appear to overhang the stream, and that a stone dropped from the cliff would fall into the water. Tempted by this appearance, I took up a stone, exclaiming, ♦' I will have it to say that I have thrown a stone across the River Niagara !" I threw, but I saw no stone fall either on the opposite banks, or even in the water. Attempts of this kind were made by the whole party, yet not a single stone reached the Fiver. There is every appearance of the Falls having been once at Queenstown, and their having worked their way up to their present situation by the gradual wearing away of the rock for almost nine miles! Yet Lahontan described Goat Island above a hundred years Jigo to be situated where it now is. What a field for spe- ii i 10*2 THE WHIRLPOOL. dilation ! From the present Falls to Queens- town the banks are a solid rock, almost per- pendicular, and I should suppose at least three hundred feet high. Colonel Hamilton permitted me to take a copy of the following Memorandum, given to him by four gentlemen appointed Surveyors by the Government of the United States : — * Feet Inc. Perpendicular Height of the Rapids above the -i Great Fall, > Perpendicular Height of the Great Fall, 149 9 ' TOTAL 207 8 Projection of Table Rook, 50 feet 4 inches West Niagara to the Falls by the Road, 151 miles Queenstown to Ditto, by the River, 8} ditto Falls to Chippavra, 2 ditto Cliippawa to Fort Erie, 18 ditto Distance from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario,. 35iditto Breadth of the River at West Niagara, 500 yds. Ditto at Queenstown, 427 do. Ditto at the Whirlpool, 236 do. Face of the Falls following the bend and Goat ) , „„„ , , , , ^ r . h 1320 do. Island three quarters of a mile, > Datfd Queenstown, Dec. 8, 1789, (signed,) JOSEPH ELLICOT, BENJAMIN ELLICOT, FREDERICK SAXTON, BENJAMIN RAY. * In an Extiairt of a Letter from Audrew EU cot to Dr. Rush, dnfeH Niagara, Decemher 10, I7H9, he jji?es 136 poles, or 742} I IPi QU EE NSTO W N. 163 The Whirlpool abounds in fish; never freezes ; and has generally its surface covered with logs, trees, ice, and such other floating substances as it draws within its vortex. * Dined with Mr. Clark, who shewed us fossil bones, a petrified snake, and a petrified wasp's nest, presented to him by Mr. Masson, the King's Botanist, who had collected them in the vicinity of Lake Erie. Queenstown contains from twenty to thirty houses, whose fronts are E. and W. the worst possible aspect, but which has been regulated by the course of the River, which is from S. by E. to N. by W. very rapid, and full of eddies. On the side of the River opposite to Queens- town, the Government of the United States design to establish a Landing ; or rather, renew the old Portage to Fort Schlusser.* There are yards for the width of the River at the Falls; so that if both this and the above account are correct, the curve of the Falls must be almost equal to twice the breadth of the River. * Extract of a Report of the Secretary of the Treasury, in obedience to a Resolution of the Senate of the United States of North America, relative to Public Roads and Canals; printed in April, 1808:— " From Montreal (which is at the head of the Tide- water) to " Lake Ontario, the ascent of the River St. Lawrence is esti- " mated at about 200 feet. From the Eastern extremity of Lake " Ontario, an inland navigation for vessels of more than 100 tons " burtlien, is continued more than 1000 miles, through Lakes '' Eric, St. Clair, and Huron, to the Western und Southern ex- Y KM I N T i: N D li U ( A N A L. at present only two houses there, one of which is the Ferry-house ; a road being opened from this place to Tannawantee, distant only thirty miles. Another scheme of the Anglo-Americans is, to do away the necessity of a Portage, by sub- stituting a Canal in its place : this object can be best explained by a quotation from Captain Williamson's Account of the Genesee : — " The " Fall was found to be three hundred and twenty " feet from Steadman s Landing (Fort Schlusser) " above the Falls, to Queenstown Landing be- ♦' low : the distance to be cut (for the proposed *' Canal) did not exceed four miles, nearly three " of which is on a level with the navigable part " of the River above the Falls." To judge from Captain Williamson's descrip- tion, the construction of this Canal would be a trifling labour: he has, however, forgotten to mention, that these four miles are to be cut through a limestone rock, full of fissures, which would make it necessary to line the Canal with " tremlties of Lake Micliig^an, nithout any other interruption " than that of the Falls and Rapids of Niagara, between Lake *' Erifl and Lake Ontario. The descent froni Fort Schlusser to " Devil's Hole, a distance of four miles, which includes the per- " pendicular Falls of Niagara, has by correct measurement been " ascertained at 375 feet. The whole Fall from Lake Erie to " Lake Ontario, is estimated at 450 feet, making the elevation " of Lake Erie above tide-water, 660 feet." T H K GREAT LAKE 8. WG tarred plank, or other materials impervious to the water. — Very sultry day. Wednesday, August 27th. 4i A. M. Ascended the Ridge ; discovered two fishermen asleep in the midst of their Cat- fish and Eels. As I am now about to take leave of the Nia- gara River, cross Lake Ontario, and descend the St. Lawrence to Quebec, — I will previously offer some description of the Sources of these Waters. Whoever casts an eye upon the Map of North America, must be struck with the gran- deur of the scale which Nature has there made use of in laying out her works. Five immense Lakes of fresh water are seen to occupy a con- siderable portion of that division of the globe. Lake Superior, the northernmost and western- most of these, and the farthest removed from the Ocean, is, by Sir Alexander Mc. Kenzie, justly considered as the grand Reservoir of the River St. Lawrence. Lake Superior occupies nearly the highest part of the North American Continent ; for, with the exception of a few small streams, tlie Mississippi takes the waters arising to the 8. of it', the Lake of the Woods tiioso to the N. \\ . ; Ijl I I0() 'r H K GREAT LAKE ,S. and Hudson Bay those to the N. This Lake, which on the most moderate calculation, (that of Mc. Kenzie's,) is twelve hundred miles in cir- cumference, and whose area is equal to that of England and Wales, empties itself at its S.E. extremity into Lake Huron, a lake little inferior to Lake Superior itself in size, being estimated by Carver at one thousand miles in circum- ference. Lake Huron also receives the water of Lake Michigan, which on Mc. Kenzie's map appears the larger Lake of the two. Receiving these streams at its N. W. angle, Lake Huron discharges its superabundant waters at its south- ern extremity into the small Lake St. Clair, thence they pass into Lake Erie, the smallest of the four great upper Lakes, though Carver assigns to it greater dimensions than he does to Lake Michigan. Lake Erie is not less than three hundred and fifteen miles in length ; Carver says three hundred ; and Father Hen- nepin estimates it at four hundred and twenty : its greatest breadth is about seventy miles. The general direction of these Waters have been hitherto from N. W. to S. E. ; they now take a N. E. direction till they reach the Gulph of St. Lawrence, their whole course being up- wards of two thousand miles, though Carver and Captain Williamson estimate their course at two thousand miles ere they reach Lake N 1 A (i A U A U 1 V li II. 107 Ontario, the last and least of the great Lakes; yet Lake Ontario is two hundred and fifty miles in length, and eighty or ninety in breadth. The Strait which connects Lake Erie witli Lake Ontario, is called the Niagara River ; and as I do not know any Traveller who has de- scribed this most singular River, I will bring together in this place some few remarks which I was enabled to make upon it. Niagara River is in length thirty-four miles ; its width, at its outlet from Lake Erie, is five furlongs, or eleven hundred yards, the Current very rapid, and the Channel thirty feet in depth. From this place it becomes almost immediately divided into two majestic streams by La Grande Isle, which is twelve miles in length, and from four to seven in breadth. At Chippawa, (sixteen miles from Lake Erie) the River is two miles wide, and the Channel fifteen feet deep ; at the Falls, (eighteen miles) the curve of the precipice is six furlongs, or one thousand three hundred and twenty yards ; at the foot of the Falls it is reduced to one hundred and thirty-five poles, or seven hundred and forty-two yards and a half, being suddenly contracted within the deep rocky Channel, which it has worn for itself to the depth of three hundred feet, and in length nine miles, to Queenstown, at the foot of the Ta- ble-Land. The whole Channel of the River, from 168 NIAGARA K I V L It. the present foot of the Falls, to Queenstown, seems to be worked out by the Cataract itself, which evidently appears to have receded all the way from Qiieenstown, the first and natural station of the Cataract ; for from hence upwards to the Falls the Channel is confined between Clififs three hundred feet in height, massy frag- ments of which, as they became undermined, fell down and strewed the bed of this raging and unnavigable torrent. The Cataract has, then, receded nine miles, but who can calcu- late the ages it has consumed in a progress which is so slow, that Hennepin, in 1679, de- scribes Goat Island in its present situation? Goat Island now contains one hundred and fifty acres. It was, no doubt, much larger in Hen- nepin's time. Charlevoix, who made all his calculations under the mark, said it was half a mile long in 1720. At the Whirlpool (twentj- three miles) the River is further reduced, to a mere span, being two hundred and thirty-six yards only across. , . ,.;( . ►;?=_' ', At Queenstown, (twenty-seven miles) where the River escapes from its mural confines, and enters the Low Councry, it is four hundred and twenty-seven yards in width, and navigable for Schooners of ninety tons burden. At West Niagara, (late Newark, thirty-four miles) where the River enters Lako Ontaiio, it N I A (1 A K A R 1 V !•: R. U't9 is five hundred yards wide, not one-half of the wdth of its outlet from Lake Erie, nor do 1 be- lieve that the Channel is even so deep, and cer- tainly not swifter ; 1 therefore feel well assured much of the water finds a subterraneous pas- sage from the foot of the Falls into Lake Onta- rio. Twenty-seven miles below Lake Erie is the termination of the Table-Land, which is marked by a Limestone Ridge, three hundred feet, and upwards, of perpendicular height. No part of this ridge, which I saw, was bare or re- markably steep, but covered with a thin soil and a growth of timber. To the West and North it follows the curve of Lake Ontario, towards York Harbour ; on the other hand it runs due East. Eighty miles in that direction I met with it at the Genesee River, which it breaks into three Falls ; the lower of these Falls is fifty- four feet deep ; the middle Fall ninety-six feet ; and the upper Fall must be something under thirty feet. It appears, then, from the preceding de- scription of the River Niagara, that the Cataract which I have already described, does not fall from a Mountainous Country, as most travel- lers have asserted, much less from " les Monts " Allegany s qui ont, pour arriver a ce point, '* traverse tout le Continent d'Amerique de- " puis la Floride," according to the Duke de Liancourt's visionary description, but from one 170 W P, ST NIAGARA. Hat Country of vast extent, to another flat Country more lowly situatetl. The upper Coun- try, for some hundreds of miles, is a vast bed of limestone, and the soil so thin in places that trees will not grow upon it. Plains of this kind I crossed in my way from the Genesee River to Buflfaloe Creek. 84 A. M. Embarked on board the Governor Simcoe Schooner of ninety tons, commanded by Captain Sampson. Pretty good accommo- dations. Mr. Tough very kindly furnished me with bedding. In addition to our own party, were Captain and Mrs. Claus, Mr. , and Mrs. Mc. Kay. The ladies had the State Rooms, of course. 10 A. M. Landed at West Niagara, three hun- dred and ninety-seven miles, (formerly called Newark*) the situation is pretty, the Fort new * This Town was burnt to the ground by the Americans in the Winter of 1813, deprivin^^ the Inhabitants, during an inclement Season, of shelter and of food. The British and Canadians retaliated by burning no less than dye Settlements on the oppo- site Banks of the Niagara River. So painful are the origin and tlie events of this unhappy contest to the feelings of the Author of this Journal, that although the Histories of this War are to be fouiid in his Library, he has never perused them, and only now adverts to the subject to say, that as this is the first, so will it be the last Note that he shall introduce respecting these hos- tilities. Many of the warriors opposed to each other were per- sonally known to the Author, and it is to his mind a very painful recollection, that garrisons in sight of each other, and who had WEST NIAUARA. 171 and remarkably neat ; it is built on the edge of a handsome green, or common, which is also skirted by a few tolerable looking houses. The Garrison consisted of the Queen's Ran- gers, and a few companies of Canadian Volun- teers. Although a very warm day the officers were playing at fives. The military are upon good terms with those of the opposite American garrison. It was my intention to have crossed the River for the purpose of visiting Fort Niagara, having a letter of introduction to Major Revardi, the commanding officer, but the shortness of our " reciprocated" civilities aad friendly intercourse, should after- wards seek each other's destruction. It ought to make nations cautious how they draw the sword, when they reflect that neither party in this contest trained permanently one foot of territory ; and that on negociating; Peace, each party thought it wise not to discuss or attempt to settle those respective claims which led to the War. — How admirably does Lady Randolph paint such scenes : — " War I detest ; hut war with foreign foes, " " Whose manners, language, and whose looks are strange, " Is not so horrid, nor to me so hateful, " As tliat which with our neighbours oft we wage. " A river here — there an ideal line " By fancy drawn, divides the sister kingdoms. " On each side dwells a people similar, " As twins are to each other, valiant both, " Both for their valour famous through the world ; " Yet will they not unite their kindred arms, " And if they must have war, wage distant war, " But with each other fight in oriiel ronflict." i!.;'i I7i FORT N I A (• A li A. Btay prevented me. We were, however, allowed to dine on shore. The Tavern was a very bad one, but we fortunately got a tolerable dinner. Embarked at sua-set. Came opposite to Fort Niagara, built on a high point, or bluff*, projecting into Lake Ontario. This point of land washes away very fast, so that in a few years the Fort itself will be endangered. In the years 1793 and 1794 the Anglo-Americans were very clamorous that the Western Posts should be delivered up to them, agreeable to the treaty of peace of 1783. When these Forts were sur- rendered to the United States, in conformity with Mr. Jay's treaty of November 18th, 1794, the British immediately built Forts opposite to them, on the Canada side of the Line. What is singular, the whole of these new Forts are erected in superior situations to the old ones, and consequently command them. The air dying away, we were obliged to take the Schooner in tow to prevent her drifting on a Heef running from the Point already men- tioned. At one time we had not more than two feet water to spare. After supper we were furnished with a speci- men of the good breeding of our fellow passen- gers. To accommodate the ladies the gentlemen went on . rearing its head and fore-part of its body out of the water, they conjectured meant to attack them ! All this they deposed on oath before a Magistrate. The Indians present, who have always a corroborating story ready, (for in- stance, the Mamoth Bull,) asserted that their people had seen ihree such Snakes, and had killed two! In North America no Snake that was ever measured exceeded seven feet. In South Ame- rica Snakes have been killed and their skins sent to Europe, in size equal to this great Snake of Lake Ontario. See Steadman's account of Surinam. The Water of Lake Ontario is clear and well tasted ; we had no other to drink. The Water of Lake Superior, Mr. Ogilvy informed us, was still superior. Friday, Auoust 29th. if ■■I IP Foggy morning. The crew mutinous. From ill will to the Captain, they, during the night, kept the Schooner a different course from the one directed. 10 A. M. Made land, but which was totally unknown to the Captain ; supposing, however, that the crew had designedly over-shot the Kingston Channel, he ordered the Vessel to be k 1 N (. S 1 O N , 176 put about, found his conjecture right, and at 2 p. M. landed us at Kingston, five hundred and forty-seven miles. I paid two guineas for my own passage, and one for my servant's. Dined at a friend of Mr. Ogilvy's. We here met with much difficulty in procur- ing a bateau ; at last succeeded, by Mr. Ogilvy promising that it should be replaced by one of his own as soon as it arrived, many of his ba- teaux being momentarily expected. Mrs. Mc. Kay wished to take a passage with us, but as, on board the Schooner, she had re- turned our politeness with incivility and rude- ness, we informed her that we were already as many as the boat would conveniently accom- modate ; but that Mr. Ogilvy would order his people to give her a passage in the first loaded bateau that went down. Had I not met with Mr. Ogilvy, 1 must also have gone down in a loaded bateau ; i. e. on the top of thirty-six packs of peltries, exposed to the weather, and obliged to find my own bedding and provisions. As it was I partook of the ample stores and conveniences furnished by Mr. Ogilvy, and in part by a Mr. Robbins, of Quinte Bay, on the north coast of Lake Ontario, to the west of Kingston, who joined our party. — Admired the situation, but not the town of Kingston; it contains upwards of one hundred houses. n^ t ^ 176 R I V E U ST. L A W n K N C E. 5 P. M. Embarked with a light favourable breeze. The Islands are very numerous at the outlet of the Lake ; en one of these we landed to cut a mast. They were covered with wood. Passed eight of Mr. Ogilvy's bateaux going up to Kingston, to be loaded with peltries. Night. Wind died away. Midnight. Our Engagh landed at a red house thirty miles from Kingston, made a fire, and put on their kettles, containing a mess of pork and peas. The Engages (for so the bateau men are called) are always French Canadians, the most hardy, industrious, and cheerful watermen perhaps in the world. They frequently sing to the motion of their oars, and always do so in passing other bateaux, or on approaching a house or village: their songs are very simple, but very pleasing. We had four Engages as our regular comple- ment, and a fifth who was a passenger. Our party did not quit the bateau ; we had good beds, and protected by an awning of oil-cloth, made, for the sake of its portableness, of the finest Irish linen. Saturday, August 30th. Calm morning* Unmoored at 4 a m. The Engagh plying their oars. i r H li THOUSAND ISLANDS. 177 5a.m. a light favourable breeze gave us an opportunity of setting sail. 8^ A. M. Landed at a house called Gary's, where we breakfasted on our own provisions. Our bateau was not only liberally furnished with stores, but Mr. Ogilvy had a complete breakfast equipage and service for dinner. We had with us the luxuries as well as the necessaries of life. Having re-embarked, we soon found our- selves among the Thousand Islands, but whe- ther more or less, no one is able to decide ; indeed that person must possess an indefatiga- ble curiosity who would attempt to number the Islands in this singular Archipelago. They consist for the most part of limestone rock, slightly covered with earth, and giving support to a few Scrub-Firs, Cedars, and the Hemlock Pine. As we were going over very good fishing ground, we baited a couple of hooks, and soon caught a black Bass, and almost as soon lost our hooks, unfortunately the last of Mr. Ogilvy's stock. — Saw a flight of pigeons, and an eagle. 3 p. M. Dined on board at the outlet of the Lake of the Thousand Islands, generally called Cochehatchie Lake, although the Cochehatchie River falls into the St. Lawrence much lower down. — The wind breezing up, we carried a press of sail. 178 L E S G A L () T S. mm 5 P. M. A gust of rain, which, as usual, killed the old wind, and introduced a new one from the opposite quarter. The banks on the Canada- side thickly settled. No Settlement on the United States side. ' >' "'■ •>; : rr > ,. - ,jf 7 p. M. Passed Fort Levi, situated on an Island said to be thirty-five leagues from Kingston, and the same distance from Mont- real; though on the maps it is placed much nearer to the former than the latter. We had now reached one of those Rapids, which, under the name of AS'ati/f, are represented by travellers as so frightful and dangerous. To these Rapids the French gave the name of Les Galotsj illuminated by the rising moon, they made a most beautiful and picturesque appear- ance. I beheld them with solemn pleasure, and, confiding in the skill of our Engagisy descended them without the smallest apprehension. Ob- served a mill built at the edge of the Rapids. A great number of American prisoners were confined at Fort Levi during the war. A party of them seized a bateau and attempted escape, but were lost in the Rapids. A fleet of bateaux were poling and dragging up the Rapids : we met great numbers in the course of this day and the preceding night. - Q\ p. M. Landed at Presqu' Isle, where we had tea and supper at i; Mr. Shafer's. LE LONG SAUT. 179 10 p. M. Re-embarked. Midnight ; shot the Rapide Plat, or the Smooth Rapid. The de- clivity is here greater than at the Galots, but the unbroken surface of the water conveys less the apprehension of danger. The moon was now obscured, there fell a very heavy dew, and the wind was a-head. Le Rapide aux Citrons is marked on the map a little below the Rapide Plat. I do not recol- lect noticing it ; probably 1 might be asleep at the time we descended it. I slept not, how- ever, when we came to Le Long Saut ; it was 4i A. M. when we hurried down this Rapid with astonishing velocity. The starboard side of our bateau almost rubbed the bank, but whether of an Island or the Main, I know not. 1 was desired to count the lai^e trees that we could almost touch as we passed them ; this appeared no ways difficult, but I was soon dizzy and confused with the trial. The water was so transparent as to cause a visual deception ; I was in constant fear that the bateau would strike the rocks, which the water appeared scarcely to cover. The Saut du Plat I wished longer, but of Le Long Saut I had quite enough. I did not like to run so near the bank, and much less did I like the appearance of larger masses of stone so near tlie surface of the water. 2 a itl HiO LAKE ST. V R A N ( I S. On the map a portage of a mile and a half is here marked, as necessary to convey the loading of the ascending bateaux. ■ ; After having passed two large Islands called Les Deux Fr^res, we then descended a small Rapid called Le Moulinet, at La Point Ma- ligne. This river throughout its whole length is thickly strewed with Islands : we now passed two considerable ones, Isle aux Bateaux, and Isle i\ la Barbue. 7i A. M. Reached Cameron's at the head of Lake St. Francis, where we breakfasted. While descending the River, a head wind did not greatly obstruct our progress, as we had a strong current in our favour : in the Lake the current was not perceptible ; the wind was against us, so that it was only very hard rowing that enabled us to reach Pointe au Baudet at 4 p. M. which being seven leagues from Came- ron's, was at the rate of a league an hour. — Cameron's Point was still in sight. Landed at Pointe au Baudet, and dined at Captain Mc. Koy's, whose house is built on the division-line separating Upper from Lower Canada.. — Overcast; slight rain; wind shifted to our larboard quarter. 5 p.m. Re-embarked. • 7 p. M. Reached the Outlet of the Lake, which Lake is thirty miles long, and from two R A P I D E D E S C E D R E S. 181 to six miles in width. Having again entered the River, we descended Le Saut dii Coteau dii Lac, or the Rapide du Coteau St. Francois. I forgot to mention in its place, that Lake St. Francis is very shallow, interspersed with numerous and large Islands, and \?Lrge fields of rushes appearing above water. It is easily affected by the wind, and subject to storms. We saw a few Loons, and passed a great num- ber of bateaux bound up to Kingston for a lading of peltries. 9 P.M. Landed at Le Coteau des Cadres, a small village three leagues from the outlet of Lake St. Francis. — Drank tea at a French Lady's, the fat and chatty Madame Charr6. Disliking our quarters at the Tavern, we at 10 p. M. adjourned to the bateau. Not being able to compose myself to sleep, and observing that Mr. Ogilvy and the Seigneur of Bertheir were as restless as myself, I proposed a moon- light ramble to the Rapids, whose waters were roaring in our ears. The moon shone " ma- jestic on high," which, together with a wood burning most fiercely on one of the Islands, gave a grand effect to the Rapids, which are the most considerable of any in the River. Clouds of spray were thrown off by their concussion against the rocks, and this formed another great beauty to the scene. A Mill is 182 RAPIDE PES CEDREM. :i. most admirably situated near this spot ; I never saw so good a Mill-Dam and Mill-Race, and yet art had little or nothing to do with it ; indeed art never designed any thing so perfectly adapted to the purpose. The Rapids make a portage necessary here of a mile and a half. Near the Mill, are remains of fortifications. I counted twenty-four bateaux laying at the Wharf, bound up the River. Midnight ; returned to the bateau highly de- lighted with our ramble. — Came on a heavy fog, owing apparently to the spray. Monday, September 1st. 5a.m. Began to descend a string of Rapids, which fol' : disclosed. One very strange effect it howevt-r produced : a raft navigated by a number of meri loomed, in so odd a manner that we had not a person in tiie bateau who did not mistake it for a large Island covered with trees ! Observed on the east banks of the River the village of Cachenonaga, inhabited l>y what are called civilized Indians converted to liie Chris- tian Faith. This part of the River is very rapid and very shallow. 10a.m. Landed at La Chine, the bateau from the shallowness of the River not being able to descend the Rapids to Montreal. La Chine is nine leagues from Le Coteau des Cedrcs, and three leagues to Montreal. Not being able to procure a calash, I waited till 1 p. M. when Mr. Tough and I took the stage, and at 3 i*. m. were set down at Dillons Hotel, ill M () N T R K A L. \Ho Montreal, two imndrcd and ten miles from Kingston, and seven hundred and fifty-seven from Albany, by the route which I had taken. We had a pleasant ride along the banks of the River from La Chine. The opposite side of the road was thickly settled, every house in the centre of a large orchard, loaded with fruit. 4 p. M. Dined with Mr. Ogilvy. In addition to our river party, were his partners, the Firm of whose house is, " Parker, Gerrad, Ogilvy and Co." In the evening Mr. James Cuthbert intro- duced me to his brother Mr. Ross Cuthbert ; Mrs. R. Cuthbert, who was a Miss Rush, daughter to Dr. Rush, of Philadelphia ; and to his sister, Miss Cuthbert. — Evening, heavy thun- dergust ; rain in the night. Tuesday, September 2nd. Enclosed Mr. Bache'a letters of introduction to Joseph Frobisher, Esq. and to Mr. John Gray. Breakfasted at Mr. Cuthbert's. Intro- duced by Mrs. Cuthbert to Mr. and Mrs. Mc. Tavish ; at the same time paid my respects to Mr. and Mrs. Liston, who had arrived at Montreal the preceding evening, and were Mr. Mc. Tavish's guests. Met a large party here, who had assembled to pay their respects to the British Minister and his Ladv, and to whom I i lOrt MONTREAL. I r !ft' WH.4 introduced ; namely, Sir Joiui and Ludy Johnstone, Dr. Selby, and Mrs. and Miswen Ogden. Permisnion being granted Mr. and MrH. Liston and friends to visit the French Seminary of , and the Convent of the Hotel Dieu, I, through the kindnesH of Mrs. Cuthbert, made one of the party. All that I observed at the Seminary was, that the Priests were well lodged, had a Library well stored with Theological Tracts, and what appeared to afford them as much pleasure, a garden abundantly stocked with fruit. Whenever a tree began to decay, a tin plate was nailed over the sorCf which gave the old trees a most veteran-like appearance, as though they had undergone the surgical opera- tion of the trepan. The Nuns received us in the Refectory, un- veiled ! All my romantic ideas of a Nunnery instantly fled. The greater number were old, and not one of them could be called handsome : their dress was very unbecoming, and very coarse. We were shewn all over the Convent, even the private cells of the Nuns; most of these cells had a motto over the door, the most general one was, " ^ Dieu seulT — I entered one which appeared among the neatest ; it was lighted by a small window, contained a small betl, a chair, a small chest of drawers, a toilette. TH E N t' N N r: H Y. I»7 a .small crucifix, and a tow Htuall religious priiilH. *• t , <• • .i 1 w s the only one of our party who did not speak I'rench, one; of the livelieut of the Nuhh was the only one who could speak English; she therefore kindly attached herself to me. Our conversation turned upon the Institution ; I made my observations freely as they occurred to my mind ; they were taken in good pari, and retorted with much »pirit and some share of wit. On bantering her on the cowardice of retiring from the world, when there was more merit in resisting its temptations, than in secluding one's- self from them, she quickly replied in a French proverb, " Si nous somnies hors de la bataille, nous ne smnmes pas hors du combat." A smile, which I could not conceal, showed how well I understood her. The only method of revenge she took was to talk to rae afterwards in French. We next visited the great Roman Church ; what I was most struck with, as being to me perfectly novel, was a person going about with a large basket full of bread, and cut in very small pieces, of which the greater part of the congregation took two or three pieces and eat them during the service. Received a visit from my old friend and fellow-passenger. Captain Mc. Kenzie, late of uf.2 2 IJ i. li {'■ ■ft i I i:i 188 MONTREAL. tho (lOth, now of the 41st. — Dined and passed the evening at Mr. Cuthbert's. — Overcast and showers. Wednesday, September 3d. Breakfasted at Mr. Ogilvy's ; returned Mr. Gray's and Captain Mc. Kenzie's visits ; in- troduced to Lieutenant Derenzy. Took a walk with Mr. James Cuthbert, and went on board the ship Euretta, of three hundred and sixty tons, and the Montreal, of four hundred tons ; this latter was built at Hull. The Euretta has better accommodation for passengers than 1 have ever yet seen on board any vessel. These vessels lay close along shore ; there is no necessity for a wharf; the goods can be rolled on board on planks: yet deep as the Channel is at this spot, there is scarcely water for a bateau a few yards above. We had a very fine view from the Citadel and the Champ de Mars. 1 was introduced to a veteran of one hundred and eighteen years of age! He had served in the battle of Malplaquet, and was at the con- quest of Canada under Wolfe and Amherst. He was bent nearly double, but could walk with the aid of sticks. Dined as Captain Mc. Kenzie's guest at the ^\ () N r u r. a l. 1U9 nu'ss-room of the 4l8t, Tea at Mr. Ogilvy's ; lu^companied him to the coffee-rGom, to attend a sale of horses ; introduced by him to Mr. Mimro, of Quebec. Supper at Mr. Cuthbert's. — Clear pleasant day ; wind N. W. Thursday, Ski'tember 4th. Dined with Mr. Frobisher at his country- house : the party was a numerous one ; among the rest, Messrs. Mc. Tavish, Lees, Henry, Todd, Machel/tj and Captain fioyd, of the Montreal. Evening at Mr. Cuthbert's. — Heavy rain the greater part of the day. Friday, September 5th. A party of my friends took me the tour of the mountain on horseback. The summit af- forded a fine view of the Country, the River, and the Town ; the latter a most dazzling ob- ject, owing to the roofs of a great number of the Houses and Churches being covered with tin as a preventative against fire ; for the same purpose iron plates are nailed over the doors and window-shutters, which, together with these buildings being of stone, it is to be supposed would pretty eftectucally secure thorn from fire, yet few towns h;ur suffered moro from this ralamitv. \) ;i if4 "S ■' II ml 190 M O N T It li A L. i. Owing to the trees which cover the wliole summit of the mountain, our prospects were chiefly in a direction towards Montreal and the St. Lawrence ; to the W. and S. W. our views were very confined. This mountain has given its name to the town, whose real name is Ville Marie. I was not content to visit the mountain in the usual way, but rambled up and down every path in search of new openings, for it would be difficult to imagine finer scenery than that which it embraced : it had all the grand features of landscape — wood, water, and distant moun- tains; those of Vermont were clearly distin- guishable. Dined at the Hotel as the guest of tiie cele- brated Alexander Mc. Kenzie, known here by the name of " Nor west Mc. Kenzie." He and his party are the only successful adventurers who ever penetrated across the Continent of North America to the Pacific Ocean. Mr. Mc. Kenzie had no less than thirty of his friends at table. — Passed the evening at Mr. Cuthbert's — Pleasant clear weather. i i I Saturday, September 6th. Received a letter of introduction from James Ciithbert, Esq. to Lieut.-Col. de Chambault, A. DC. i\ son Excellence leGouverneurMilnes, V A U K N N K. HM h Quebec ; and from Mr. Ogilvy a letter to in- troduce me to his partner, Mr. John Mure. Captain Me. Kenzie introduced me to Capt. Frende, of the 41st, who was going by water to Quebec, and who obligingly offered me a pas- sage. The party consisted of Captain Frende, Lieutenant Hall, three Serjeants, one Corporal, and twenty-three Privates ; also, eight Canadian Engagh to manage two of the King's bateaux, freighted with £.30,772, Halifax currency, or £.27,694 16*. sterling in specie. 1 had taken care to lay in a basket of wine and porter ; Capt. Frende had done the same, with the addition of provisions and groceries. At noon we pushed off from the Barrack Wharf, with a fine favourable breeze and clear plea- sant weather : both banks of the River thickly settled. Noon till 1 p. M. Passed two or three Churches and Vill. ges ; to wit, Longueil, E.* — St. Fran- cois, W. — Bouchervile, E. li p. M. Pointe aux Trembles, I'Enfant Jesus Church and Village, ten miles and half. 2 p. M. Saw the large double-towered Church at Varenne, a considerable Village on the E. side of the River, fifteen miles. Passed two considerable Islands in this part of the River, the Isle Commune, and Isle Therese. * W. and E. denote whetlior on tlie AVcst or Eusl Side of (lif IJiver. f"1 hi ■i 102 LA V A LTE R I K. h 2 J p. M. Bout de risle, (de Montreal) iifteeii miles. ■ • ^ ... . -i '. . :: ., ,,.;.-... - 2i P. M. Church and Village of Repentigui, W. eighteen miles. 3i p. M. Chi-rch and Village of Verdheres,* E. twenty-one miles. 4 p. M. Church and Village of St. Sulpice, W. twenty-seven miles. 5i p. M. Church and Village of La Valterie, W. thirty-four miles ; prettily intermixed with groves of trees near a small Island ; hay-making along the banks of the River, being the second crop. 7i p. M. Church and Village of St. Joseph de la Noraye,t forty-four miles. 8 p. M. Landed at a small cottage within five leagues of Lac St. Pierre, forty-seven miles. We had now run forty-seven miles in eight hours, for which we were more indebted to the current than to the wind, which gradually died away. We landed in the expectation of dining more comfortably on shore than on board : the cot- tage was, however, so scantily furnished, that it could only supply us with a table and a table cloth, which from being ourselves so well pro- vided, we could not consider as a disappoint- ment to be regretted. The reason of our dining * The Canadians pronounced tins word Vacf-'<:re. t In a Canadian Almanack this is written D^Autrey. \ i. II N' W H L V. S O M K V () C. UK] 80 late was, that the Soldiers and Engages might at the same time prepare their suppers. Indeed it is necessary that the Engagh should land three times a day to boil their kettles ; they are seldom at a loss for wood, and soon strike up a fire. 9 p.m. Re-embarked. Clear moonlight night. Fell asleep ; and at 10 p. m. awoke by a sudden shock produced by the bateau taking the ground. The fog was so uncommonly thick that we could not see ffom one end of the bateau to the other : thus were our hopes to cross Lake St. Pierre by moonlight, frustrated, and thus un- comfortably situated were we obliged to pass the night. This fog apparently was of the most unwholesome nature ; heavy, clammy, and pos- sessing a most disagreeable burnt smell ; it was also very cold, and there not being a breath of air, respiration was very difficult. The Soldiers were the principal suflerers, as onr end of the bateau was covered with an awning. Sunday, September 7th. b\ A. M. We were now enabled to see our situation : instead of being, as we supposed, aground on some of the marshy islands, which block up, as it were, the entrance of Lake St. Pierre, we found ourselves within oar's length of the W. shore, and a cottage hard by : it was too late to regret our being so long ignorant of 1})4 M A I) A M E U K F K L T K R I E. , I 'III this circumstance, yet we did regret it, and severely too. The fog was still heavy on the waters, and having no wind, we rowed till 6i A. M. when we landed at Pierre de Pelterie's, seven miles below Berthier, and three miles from Lac St. Pierre, being in the whole fifty- five miles. It appears, therefore, that we had passed the night within two or three miles of Berthier, the residence of my friend, James Cuthbert, who possesses the Seigneurie. Breakfasted upon our own provisions, with the addition of some milk and eggs, which Madame de Pelterie was so obliging as to borrow for us, Indeed this lady was in the ut- most distress : the property they lived upon was disputed by the two neighbouring Seigneurs, and all their goods had the preceding day been taken from them and sold for the benefit of a creditor. Tears ran down her cheeks as she told her story ; she possessed a very genteel address, and had the remains of beauty. We were astonished to see such a woman a pea- sant's wife. 8 A, M. Re-embarked ; the fog still hanging over the waters. The channel of the River is here contracted by the Isle du Pas ; as it was, opposite to Berthier, by that and the interme- diate one of Isle au Castor ; indeed, if it was not for these Islands, and those of De Richelieu, U ' T R O 1 S RIVIERES. 19o oil" tlu' inoiitli of the River Sorei, the entrance of Iho liiikc would be about a mile below La Noraye. At Berthier the River Au Chicot falls into the St. Lawrence, a small stream. 9 A.M. Entered Lake St. Pierre, fifty-eight miles, abreast of the Bay of Atocas, and the Masquinongez River, which appears a consi- derable one. The wind blew i Sunset. Abreast of the Church of La Madeleine, N. W. On the opposite shore is the Village of Becancourt, on the River of the same name ; formerly the Grande Riviere Pu- ante, the Petite Riviere Puante falling into the St. Lawrence somewhat lower down. C H A M 1' L A I N . 107 II' 81i p. M. Landed at the Village of Champlain, one hundred and six miles. Our accommoda- tions were so good that we even procured tea, (not much known among the Canadians.) I got a good bed. The Military were obliged to guard the dollars. Our motive for landing at Champlain was the opposition we met with from the flood tide. The tide is, I believe, perceptible at Trois Rivieres, perhaps higher, but certainly not in Lac St. Pierre. Monday, September 8th. 2 A. M. Embarked ; clear moon ; what little wind was stirring was direct a-head. 3 A. M. The wind breezing up made it very difficult rowing. 3i A. M. Pass the Village and River of Ba- tiscan ; one hundred and twelve miles. Pass Village of Bequet, E. and Village and River of St. Anne, W. one hundred and twenty-two miles. 5^ A.M. The wind had now become so strong that, rather than waste our strength to little or no purpose, we landed at a point of land on the S. E. side of the River in St. John's Parish, one hundred and twenty-six miles. This part of the RivtT is full of daniferous rocks, which •'Si ! ' 198 'IH i: U It I D E. extend from both banks of the River to the Ship Channel, and of which the greater number appear above the surface at low water. In con- sequence of these rocks we had much difticulty in landing. Having gained the beach, we looked out for some path by which we might climb the steep and wooded bank whose almost perpendicular side appeared as if it would baffle any attempt to penetrate into the country. We were not long in finding a footpath which led us through a winding gully to the top of the bank, and thence conducted us to a cottage, where the poverty of its inhabitants disappointed our ex- pectations of a breakfast. At the next cottage we met with, we were more fortunate. We were provided with milk, eggs, and bread ; there was also a large apple- pie, but its appearance was not sufficiently inviting. Upon this expedition I had been obliged to brush up my old French as inter- preter to the party. I had hitherto been content merely to proclaim our wants ; but seeing at this early hour a young girl standing before a bit of broken glass, in a linsey-woolsey petticoat and without gown, most assiduously decorating her hair with powder, pomatum, and ribands, I asked her if those were not her bridal orna- ments? — " Alas ! (said the mother) " she is in- THE MARRIAGE. lao " deed going to be married ! She is too young ; " she is scarcely sixteen : we want her to wait *' a year or two, but young girls think it a fine " thing this matrimony !" — Neither this mourn- ful speech, nor our presence, could for a moment withdraw the damsels attention from the deco- ration of her head ; but the entrance of a young clown had a very different eflect, as, without ceremony, he went up and saluted her at her toilette. The youth appeared to have made no alteration in his usual dress : her's was confined to her coiffure ; for, without putting on a gown, she immediately accompanied him to the door, and, after kissing her mother, drove off in a calash to church. In my ramble after breakfast I saw a church and four calashes at the door. On entering it I was disappointed in my wish to witness the marriage ceremony : it was performing behind the altar ; I could hear, but a screen prevented my seeing. The church was small, but its or- naments most richly gilt. I now descended to the beach. The Engages had made a large fire, and were employed in boiling their pot. The Soldiers had also made a fire. Having nothing better to do, I deter- mined to make one for the Officers. There being great plenty of drift wood and dead branches, ! had soon, 'vith Lieutenant Hall's •i Ji N '«mv?s' tsw'' Accompanied Capt. Frende and Capt. , of the Artillery, to the Arsenal, where I saw a large collection of arms as well kept and as well arranged as those in the Tower of London. Capt. invited me to dine at the Artillery mess. Left my card at Madame le Blanc's boarding-house, for Mr. and Mrs. Liston ; re- ceived an invitation from Col. Hale to dine with him en/amille on Friday. Dined at the mes<^ of the Artillery Company,' (Major Guthrie, Major Burton, &c. &c.) In the evening Cripps drove me out in a calash along the Heights of Abraham, passing the country seats of the Bishop and the Governor. Re- turned by the Montreal Road. ;' jr?'; '?' .• Thursday, September 11th. After breakfast Captain Frende and I hired . a calash, and drove to the celebrated Falls of Montmorenci, about seven miles below Quebec. Some give the height of the Fall at three hun- dred and forty feet, others at three hundred feety and some again are content to say that the ■ i-j the ing his il r a ell >n. iry c's •e- th ie »g ry e-. J ft Ifi- ■t I- d )f -* l- t, e FALLS OF M O N t «) !v th:»n iwo hiUMlrtM* rtnd forty ; nor do I think thnl it is higher f})>>n two hundred and ihriy ; indv m) I alwij,%->.i taki* tlie lowest cralculMioi) m riU 'j>!iitlt'i 'Dndtr. Height, hvater-faUs Where \» the mih- linn? jiroduced with such a«toui8hii»(s; effect ai at IViagara -that Vrinc.e of Catanif^H ' Yet Ni**- gam km from the Tu hie- Hock not iilaw thao oina huiw't*>f* mf^ f'Mty-nifM>fet*tttiiiem€h«?« pitr.h. The iK'st vk:v of the Fsitlw of Mootin* r» im i is from a Summ«*r-fiw * ■We ^^r"^' ^^, i«.i '. tnred m, but was greuH anuiiua ;.wi 8,,uj»toin Frendci enxm Hfter^vardw joiniijg: me; hb tr<;,>.d shook this crai«y building, ever vibraimg vtkh the coucussioa of the Falls ! -For a mom*iU i HfHiaht ij«< gone;- (he next monmni we -tverw i rrafimm. We hud the b*i^t joJ-^niij*^:- -« -innther Siin>mfr-how*t: i.m ^, ' t! dweUmghoiiie bjjik lef iV»*mtiritpv^m'&rof iJMMMlit. FwMBii t 1 took a sk^jtoh i>f ^ j^iii*. The aft+^rt^j. ^d a character o» tl* i»w»; ^^- 1 ■ FALLS or MONTMORKNCI. 2(M> Mater does not fall more than two hundred and forty ; nor do I think that it is higher than two hundred and forty ; indeed I always take the lowest calculation in all matters of wonder. Height, however, has but an inferior place among those causes which produce the sublime and beautiful in water-falls. Where is the sub- lime produced with such astonishing effect as at Niagara — that Prince of Cataracts? Yet Nia- gara has from the Table-Rock not more than one hundred and forty- nine feet nine inches pitch. The best view of the Falls of Montmorenci is from a Summer-house hanging over the abyss ! We were earnestly requested not to enter the Ruin : we saw the steps descending to it de- cayed, the beams supporting it partly rotten, and evidently given way ; yet thinking that my weight would make no sensible addition, I ven- tured in, but was greatly alarmed on Captain Frende soon afterwards joining me ; his tread shook this crazy building, ever vibrating with the concussion of the Falls ! — For a moment I thought us gone ; — the next moment we were safe on terra Jinna. We had the best perspec- tive view from another Summer-house on the lawn in front of the dwelling-house built by Gen. Haldimand, a former Governor of Canada. From this station I took a sketch of the Falls. The scenery had a character oi' its own \ the 210 GOVERNOR M I L N K M. n rri| !. I banks udjoiuing the Falls were covered with pine, but below them a naked cliflf. The Fall itself is a fine one, very superior to the Cohoes Fall on the Mohawk, and afforded no less de- light than the greater Fall of the Genesee. Our return was by Mill, a Distillery, and Charles River Bridge ; Charles River ap- peared to be nothing more than a tide water. Noon ; waited upon Colonel Hale, who ac- companied me to the chateau, when I was intro- duced to his Excellency Governor Milnes. Our conversation was private for nearly an hour. He asked many questions respecting the United States, and Upper Canada. He was to dine to-day with the Bishop, but he hoped that to- morrow he should have my company. On informing him that the next day was fixed for my departure, he was polite enough to expos- tulate on the shortness of my visit. An Officer of the Garrison had procured me permission to examine the works, but a very heavy rain the whole of the afternoon prevented my having that pleasure. Friday, September 12th. Introduced to Major Butler and to Captain Christie, from both of whom received invitations to dinner. Captain Frende was much inclined to pass another day or two in Quebec, but his THi; RETURN VOYAGE. 211 «lnty lorbado him ; lio, theioforc, notwithstand- ing tlie rain continued very heavy, gavo instant orders for his departure. Tliero was, however, no obligation on my part to accompany him. I had informed Ca» tain Frendc that 1 should most probably remain a few days longer than himself at Quebec, and return by land for the advantage of seeing more of the country. Be- sides, I knew tliat the navigation in bateaux, against so rapid a River as the S' Lawrence, was very tedious. Yet, so much wa.^ I attache',' to the society of Captain Frende and Lieatenai>t Hall, that I determined to be of the party, and share their future adventures on this voyage. The bateaux had been hauled so " high ^nd dry," that we lost a tide before we could l*. uncH them ; in doing of which, one man broke his arm, and another got a black eye in return for a difference of opinion : and, as if these circum- stances had not created confusion enou[ ' a couple of large mastiffs fell a fighting in the midst of us. Seeing how things were going, that is, that there was no immediate prospect of our soins, 1 withdrew from the scene of action, and that during so heavy a sho :• of rain, that I thought it a sufficient excuse \o request slielter at a house where I had observed two pretty girls at the window, and v»nich also afforded a n sight of the i)rorrf tiings of our party. 1 was 2 E l! I 1| 1 !.-» 212 QUEBEC. chceifully admitted into the room, when I told them the plain truth ; that I was on the point of embarking, had observed them at the window, and thought it well worthy the trial if I could not have one half hour's conversation before I left Quebec. They entered readily into my views, and gaily told me that they would excuse an impertinence where there was so little pros- pect of a repetition. So chatty, lively and frank were these girls, that I saw with regret that the Engagh had succeeded in launching their bateaux. Before I take leave of Quebec, I will observe, that this celebrated city is divided into the Upper and Lc^ 'er Towns, both of which are fortified. These fortifications are now entirely neglected, but the fortress, which is wholly se- parated from the Upper Town, has been almost daily strengthened since the American war ; so that such engineers as have seen it look upon it as impregnable, even had the enemy possession of the city. It may be said of Quebec, (which can be said of no other fortress,) that three Generals, com- manding the armies of three difTerent nations, have fallen under its walls — Montcalm, Wolfe, and Montgomery. Quebec, as I was informed, contains about ten thousand inhabitants, being about one-fifth I i CAPIi ROUGE. 213 larger than Montreal. Weld, speaking of the prospect from the Upper Town, says, that for grandeur, beauty, and diversity, it surpasses all that he had hitherto seen in America, or indeed in any other part of the world. Now, in my opinion, the objects are much too distant to be interesting ; you have neither fore-ground, nor middle-ground ; it is all perspective : very infe- rior, surely, to the view from the Beacon Hill at Boston, or from the Battery at New York. There is a custom at Quebec which I no where else met with : the water-carts are all drawn by dogs ! The 6th Regiment, and a company of Artil- lery, were at this time in Quebec. At 3 p. M. we took our departure from Mr. Godfrey's Brewery, which furnished us with some excellent ale, indeed the very best I ever drank not brewed in England. The ebb tide had been mnning two hours, we had, however, the advantage of a favourable light breeze. 6 p. M. Took down sail, being calm. 7^ p. M. Landed at CapeRouge, three leagues from Quebec. The tide being out, we had much difficulty in gaining the shore, impeded in the first in- stance by slippery rocks, and in the second by a muddy swamp. It was a dark night, the rain succeeded by a heavy fog ; trudging -.xhuix, wo 214 THE POST-HOUSE. sought a night's lodging, to the disturbance of the screaming snipe. The first house which we came to was so very filthy, that we determined to look out for another ; the second, which was the Post-house, was little better, and in one respect worse, it containing six dirty children. Eggs and milk were all the provisions that the house could afford, but we had abundant stores of our own. Among the women was a very old Dame, who gave up her bed to Hall, and slept with two other of the women. Hall was not satisfied with getting the old Lady's bed, but could not resist interrupting her prayers, for we all slept in one room ; he every now and then gave her a slap, which her posture he said so irresistibly invited, with a — " Come, have not you done yet?" The old Lady, instead of shewing any re- sentment at this behaviour, mildly desired that he would not intemipt her, as she had to begin again ; but neither the old Dame's request, nor Captain Frende's nor my persuasion, had any effect upon Hall : he seemed to give her a par- ticular time to say her prayers in, and when that period was expired, he renewed his thump and interrogation of " Come, have not you done vet?" The old Lady observing that his question was always the same, asked me what he said ; on informing lier, she replied, that unless the ST. A U O U S T I N. 215 gentleman would cease his persecution, she must remain on her knees the whole night. Won, I believe, by h .*r ;^«atient behaviour, our wild friend permitted 1 ^ ; to say her prayers in peace. In fact I never met a man who had so ungovernable a flow of animal spirits as Hall. At midnight we were roused from profound sleep by a thundering knocking at the door, and the sudden entrance of L'Estrange of the 6th, and his party, in pursuit of two deserters. We breakfasted at seven o'clock, but were not able to procure eggs and milk for our serv- ants, which was the first disappointment of the kind we had met with. The charge, too, was exorbitant ; and although the item was not put in the bill, I rather think that we had to pay for the pleasure which Hall took in slapping the old Dame. 8a.m. Embarke'i. On our way we met with a cart which we pressed to put us on board. 9 A. M. Obliged to ply our oars ; no wind and heavy fog ; tide almost expended. 10 A. M. Mill, and Cape Rouge Bay, where we breakfasted in going down; twelve miles. Here the whole N. W. shore is lined with bare rocks extending some distance into the River. lOi A. M. Ghnrch and Village of St. Augustin ; a pretty situation under a wooded cliff', thirteen miles and a half. Sun breaks out. JpiS. F ■ W' il 216 CAPE SANTE. Noon. Calm ; sun scorching. We dined on board, and drank a glass to the memory of the gallant Wolfe ! This day being the anniver- sary of his glorious death upon ** the lap of victory that moment won." i p. M. Church and pretty Village of Pointe aux Trembles, twenty-one miles ; also opposite to a Church on S. £. side. 3i p. M. Church of Le Cur6 on S. E. side. 3 p. M. Pass River of Jacques Cartier, twenty- eight miles and a half, which takes its name from the Frenchman who discovered Canada in 1534. Three sloops and a schooner passed us, coming down right before the wind. 3^ p. M. Having neither wind nor tide in our favour, we knded at Cape Sant6, a considerable Village, with a large double-towered Church, called the Trois Sceurs, being built by three Sisters, and is the handsomest Church which 1 saw between Montreal and Quebec. We got excellent quarters at this Village, being thirty miles from Quebec. To fill up the time we took our guns, but could only kill a plover. We bathed, and visited the Church. As the tide would serve soon after midnight, we went to bed in good time, without being disturbed by Hall beating the great drum. POINTE DE CHAMBAULT. 217 Sunday, September 14th. 3| A. M. Embark with a favorable light air. 4i A. M. Pointe Platon, S. E. side, thirty-three miles, where we had slept on the night of the 8th; wind breezes up. ' '' 5 A. M. Pointe de Chambault, N. W. thirty- nine miles. The Church and Village are situated on this Point, which form a very conspicuous bluff or promontory. From this promontory to Cape Sant6, a distance of three leagues, our Engagh gave the name of the Rochelieu, being a bed of rocks forming a continued Rapid, and not passable by ships, except at high water. The Rocks are for the most part bare at ebb tide, and occupy the greater part of the bed of the River. 7a.m. Church and Village of Les Grondine, N. W. forty-five miles. A thunder-storm now came on. The invariable effect of such a storm is either to kill the wind, or change it : this killed it. 7iA.M. Landed in St. Jean's Parish, S. E. side, forty-eight miles, four miles and a half below the place where we passed so much time on the 8th, and our situation was very similar. Our breakfast was a bad one ; we could not obtain an egg in the whole village. !! M •2I» CURIOUS PLANT. i The winf them, 1 made the best of my way to the Post-House, one hundred and fifty miles, where I hired a calash of Monsieur Robillard. The calash was ready, but Robillard had P. send into the fields to catch a horse. An ill-fa- voured rough-coated little animal was soon brought and harnessed. I was scarcely seated, before the wild Canadian Colt ran off with me full gallop into the fields, the road not being fenced off. " How is this ?" said I to my youth- ful conductor, who could neither stop the horse nor guide him, " O ! nothing, Sir ! nothing, but '' that the fool likes to gallop in the fields better ST. SULPICE. 227 ** than on the road, as he was never in a calash *' before." " Nor was I ever in a calash before, " and from this specimen 1 suspect 'tis your in- " tention that I shonld never get into one again." " If the fool only knew how much better run- " ning he would have on the road, and that he " must go to St. Sulpice at last !" " I don't " care where he goes to at last, but I should " have been better pleased had he gone to St. " Sulpice at first." By good management, or good luck, or, per- haps, by a portion of each, the calash was pre- vented from being overturned ; and when the horse had once experienced how much better running it was on the road, he never shewed an inclination to make another sally into the fields. 2i p. M. Reached Desnoyer's, at St. Sulpice, seven miles and a half, (one hundred and fifty- seven miles and a half,) which distance my little Canadian ran within the hour, notwithstanding his vagaries in the fields. For this stage of two leagues and a half I paid two dollars, or two shillings and sixpence currency, being one shilling currency per league, or about three-pence half penny sterling per mile. If two persons travel in the same calash, the price is about one-fourth more. Weld has given a description and engraving oi' this vehicle, but he has given It a G much 1 1 I.! m it (.1 228 MONTREAL, m n smarter appearance than what it possesses. It is not so roomy as he represents it, and the dri- ver, instead of being at a respectable distance, is seated with his back against your knees. In Lower Canada there are no other public carria- ges. They afford a much pleasanter mode of travelling than the stages of the United States ; or, if we have any reference to the expence and expedition, to any of the public vehicles of Europe Desnoyer, like Robillard, had no stables ; he therefore was obliged to send a boy into the tields to catch a horse. 3^ p. M. Reached Deschamp's at Repentigny, one hundred and sixty- three miles and a half from Quebec. I was half an hour in crossing the ferry to Dubreuii's, at Bout de I'lle, one hundred and sixty-four miles and a half. This branch of the St, Lawrence, or rather of the Otawa or Grande Riviere, which forms the Island of Montreal, is but a small body of water, comprred to that which runs in front of the Island. 43 p. M. Brions, Pointe aux Trembles, one hundred and sixty-nine miles. 6i p. M. Reached my old quarters at Dillon's, Montreal, one hundred and seventy-eight miles. Previous to a few remarks respecting the country and inhabitants bordering the St. Law- RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 220 rence, I \ ill give a short description of a River which I had navigated from Kingston to Que- bec, a distance of three hundred and eighty- eight miles, and whose waters I had traced from Lake Erie, one hundred and eighty- two miles above Kingston, making a total of ftve hundred and seventy miles. The St. Lawrence, from Montreal to Quebec, preserves pretty uniformly from one to two miles in breadth, being rarely contracted within these limits. After passing Quebec, or rather the Island of Orleans, it assumes more of the appearance of a Bay than a River. At Tadou- sac, where it receives the Saguenai, a consider- able River from Lake St. John, it is four leagues in width, and still expanding in its course, enters the Gulph of St. Lawrence, at the Island of Anticosti, with a spread of twenty leagues from ehore to shore. From Lake Ontario to Trois Rivieres the banks are low, thence gradually increasing in height to Quebec, \»here the summit of Cape Diamond is three hundred and thirty-seven feet ; or, by some accounts, as many yards above the level of the water-line. The tide make^ as high as Trois Rivieres, but the water continues fresh eighty miles below Quebec. From the Island of Anticosti to Quebec, the distance is somewhere about four hundred mile;?!, u i230 RIVER 8 T. LAWRENCE* ijf II and navigable for ships of war. The French are said to have sailed a frigate as high as Montreal. Vessels, however, of considerable burthen annually visit this Port, more than five hundred miles from the Ocean ! If there be any other River in the World which will admit a Ship of four hundred ton to this extent, which I much doubt, it must be either the Amazons, or the Rio de la Plata ; for the Mississippi can scarcely be ascended in large Vessels higher than New Orleans, and the Nile and the Ganges are only navigable for small Craft. No River has a more noble origin than the St. Lawrence, if Lake Superior be allowed to be its fountain-head : — a Lake whose superabundant waters trace a line of nearly two thousand miles ere they reach the ocean. That Lake Superior has a just claim to this distinction, will be ad- mitted, if it be considered, that the accession of water which she receives from'those magnificent streams which pour tribute into her bosom, is not equal to the evaporation constantly taking place on her surface, and still less to supply her liberal gifts to Lake Huron, a Lake little infe- rior to herself in magnitude, which receiving the waters of Lake Michigan, and probably ad- ding from her own stores, sends the accumu- lated wealth by the River St. Clair to Lake Erie, which Lake pours large tribute by the If ^ t 1 r A N A 1> I A N S. 231 Niagara into Lake Ontario, the last and least of these five immense fresh-water Lakes, the largest in the known world ; one alone posses- sing a greater surface than the Island of Great- Britain. In addition to what I have already said res- pecting Lower Canada, I must add, that the Farms which border on the St. Lawrence are generally small; — that the Canadians are bad ib,rraers ; — that their houses are dirty ; — that no fresh air is ever admitted at the windows, consequently their rooms have a close sickly smell, like those in a workhouse or gaol ; — that they sleep piggishly, using straw beds and co- loured pillow cases ; — that fleas and bugs are innumerable ; — that each family keeps two or three barking curs ; — that the men are rude and surly, but the women generally v(;ry civil and obliging ; — that their food is principally bread and milk ; — that the men have dark dingy com- plexions ; are seldom without a short pipe in their mouth, a worsted cap on their head, and a worsted sash round their waist. The cows are small ; the horses mere ponies, but of a hardy unconquerable spirit — no wonder; spirit seems to be the natural concomitant of the smaller animals ; wisely designed, no doubt, to counterbalance the superior strength of those of larger growth. Did the King of Prussia act ti ^n 232 <: A N A D I A N 8. ■: t I I wisely in raising a regiment of giants? Yes! they were intended for parade, and not for battle. « i ,/ . From Lake St. Pierre to Montreal, the Ca- nadians were very busy getting in their second crop of hay, but still more busy in dressing tlax, an operation chiefly performed by the women and girls, who took their stand near the public road. Though I passed numerous bands of flax- dressers; though I passed many a group of girls washing clothes in the River; though I visited the Villages, and entered the farmers' houses, I did not see one pretty country-girl. I understand that the same remark has been made in France, their mother-country. The l^easantry of Germany are rude and ill-favour- ed ; the women more so than the men. During a residence of two years in Germany, I saw much beauty among the higher classes of soci- ety, but not one solitary instance of it among the lower. The case appeared not quite so desperate in Holland, yet not a pretty milk-maid did I see amongst her Frows. Love in a cottage does not appear to be confined to any country ; but Beauty in a cottage must be sought for in Eng- land only. You will go far and will fare worse, if you seek it in Scotland, or even in Wales. MONTREAL. 233 This flower is too delicate to be transplanted, if I may judge from the sickly appearance it puts on in the United States. It is no Sun- flower! it thrives best in temperate climes, and under a clouded sky ; yet protected from the elements and treated with tenderness, it will flourish under the torrid zone itself. Finding myself most at home with Mr. and Mrs. Cuthbert, I passed this evening with them. Afternoon overcast. ■■ — ■ Friday, September 19th. Strangers at Montreal are expected to make morning visits ; expected or not, I called upon the Cuthberts, Mr. Frobisher, Mr. Ogilvy, and Captain Mc. Kenzie. Frende and Hall did not reach Montreal till the afternoon. Not being able to make Point aux Trembles on account of the head-wind, the strength of the current, and the lowness of the River, they were under the necessity of sleeping at Bout de llle; or in other words, of passing the night there, for the bugs murdered sleep. As Captain Frende's guest, I dined at the mess of the 41st. Among others present were Captains Mc. Kenzie, John, and Bayard ; Lieutenants Derenzy, Mair, True, Cameron, Biillork; .Tohnstonc, Hall, Saunders, Campbell, 234 M O N T R K A L. and CouUhurst. Supped with Mr. Ogilvy. — Sultry day ; rain at night. Saturday, September 20th. I this day had to regret my loss in the society of Mr. Broom, of New York, a fellow-lodger, who accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Liston on their return to the United States. Dined with Mr. Frobisher at his town house. We were twenty-two persons at table. Among the guests were Governor Morris, of Morrisa- nia, Senator for the State of New York in Congress, and late Embassador to the Court of France ; for manly beauty, for strong sense, for powerful eloquence, and for brilliancy of fancy, few countries have produced his equal. Edward Livingston, of New York, and Mem- ber of Congress, sat opposite to G. Morris ; they were opposite, too, in their principles, and kept up a most animated and interesting con- versation the whole evening. Livingston had extensively cultivated the Belle Lettres, and the Polite Arts ; indeed, his taste was the ruin of his fortune. He had a more lively fancy than Morris ; more playful, but not so keen : in a word, he was the only thoroughly-good-temper- ed Democrat I ever met with ; this was my first inlroducticn to him ; I had frequently enjoyed Mr. Morris's society. M N T R K A L. 235 Ml*. Jones, a young Irishman, of high birth, was introduced as a relation of Mr. Livingston's. Mr. Ashfield, (an old acquaintance of mine) was introduced as the nephew of G. Morris. Among the other distinguished strangers was Mr. Hearne, who had passed a great part of his life in. India, and was well acquainted with the languages, manners and politics of that country. His present residence was or the banks of Lake Champlain. ' • •: The Officers of the 41rl whom I noticed in this party, were Colonel Thomas; and Captains Mc. Kenzie, Bayard, Campbell and Cameron. I also noticed among the company, Lieutenant Cady, of the Artillery ; Major Murray, whose residence is on the Grand or Otawa River ; Dr. Selby ; the Hon. James Mc. Gill, and the Hon. John Lees, Member of the Executive Council. Messrs. Mc. Tavish, Cuthbert, Todd, Henry, and Lister. — Rain greater part of the day. Sunday, September 21st. Went to the Roman Church ; had little of the ceremony, and none of the magnificence, of the Roman Church at Baltimore. Dined at the mess of the 41st, as Captain Frende's guest ; Ashfield was of the party ; he expressed a fear that he should be made tipsy, 2 H 1^ lis f v* l\ m I.- 1', i '2'Mi M <) N r l< K A L. adding, " 'tis the fate of all Strangers, I hear ; ♦' What think you?" " I think that the mess •• doors will not be locked ; and 1 think that " when I've got my quantity I shall walk away." We hot! realized our expectations. When I found myself on the point of trespassing against sobriety, I walked off; my friend staid to finish the Campaign ; or, without metaphor, the Cham- pagne. This is another of the thousand-and- one instances that predictions generally realize themselves. — Raw morning; pleasant evening; rain in night. Monday, September 22d. Morning, visits to the Cuthberts and Mr. Ogilvy. . , . • 1 : • Went to see some Wood Ducks ; birds almost unequalled in their plumage. In Parkinson's Museum 1 was shown, I think, the same Bird under the name of the Mandarin Duck. Paid ha)f a guinea for a pair of handsomely ornamented Moccasins. I had given two dol- iars for two pairs at Albany. Visited the Mili- tary Tennis-Court, where I saw a pleasing and manly display of activity and skill. How supe- rior to billiards ! Dined with Mr. Mc. Tavish. Mrs. Mc. Ta- vish was the only very handsome woman I saw [\ M () N T It E AL. 237 ill Canada. In addition to many of Ihc gentle- men wiiom I had met at Mr. Frobisher's, qh Morris, Livingston, Jones, Ashiield, Hearne, were Judge Ogden, Mc. Gilvray, two Mc. Gills, Leicester, and a stranger. In the evening came Mr. and Mrs. Ogden. — Fine pleasant weather. I'll ! ■ Tuesday, SEi'TEMiiiiu 23d. Dined and passed the evening at Mr. Ciith- bert's. The conversation turning upon riddles, I observed, that riddles were easy of solution in proportion to their apparent difficulty; more easy as they became more paradoxical; as a ship is known at first sight by those who know little or nothing of its materials; and that 1 never had been long puzzled by a riddle, nor did I think that I could be. Mrs. Cuthbert replied that she knew a riddle which had bafHed the peneti'ation of all to whom she had ever proposed it, and that if I found it out she would give me and my friends a dance. The words of the riddle 1 have forgotten; but I very soon hit upon the solution, which was, " A whale during the time that Jonah was in its belly." As 1 was to leave Montreal the next day, the cards were instantly sent out, and the party speedily assembled ; among whom wen; my friends Mc. Kenzie, Dercnzy, and Wells, ■W '■ y, i \ "iu V^. ^ "«' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // // di< ,%> ,sr ^4^ •<>«»** Wednesday, September 24th. V'VjH'* I am now going to take leave, most probably, for ever, of Montreal. Never place had so won, in so short a time, upon my affections. During the ten days of my ever-to-be-remem- bered residence here, I have not been allowed to take a single meal at my Inn, except at breakfast, a liberty I would not give up. There was a daily strife among my friends who should entertain me, and every effort used to induce me to prolong my visit. This kindness was the more flattering as I did not come recommended, like Mr. and Mrs. Liston, Mr. Morris, or Mr. Liv- ingston, by diplomatic rank, political celebrity, or splendid talents; but, as an unknown and obscure stranger, was invited to the same par- ties, and received upon the same footing, with these exalted characters. I had often heard of the hospitality of Montreal : I now experienced it. To Mr. and Mrs. Cuthbert, Captain Mc. Kenzie, Mr. Ogilvy, Mr. Frobisher and Captain Frende, I shall ever feel myself indebted ; less for their many civilities, than for that friendly manner with which they were accompanied. MONTREAL. 239 The Guthbei'ts considered me as part of tlieir family : to them I gave most of my leisure hours ; — sometimes I was in their library before breakfast, and frequently dropped in after supper. Montreal contains about eight thousand in- habitants, principally French Canadians. The most wealthy class are the Merchants of the Old and New North-west Companies, through whose hands pass all the peltries of Upper Canada, and the vast regions to the N. N; W. and W. of the Great Lakes. • > - . . These gentlemen are chiefly Scotch by birth ; but Mr. Frobisher, the late Head of the Old N. W. Company, is a native of Halifax, in York- shire. A daughter of his married a school-fellow of mine, Capt. O'Brian, and was burnt to death at Exeter, ■^t.'.ij, iU. ■i^.iiu-t j^h: (^ii:}j%>S\:f\ ■■■ Some details respecting the N.W. Companies have been given by the Duke de Liancourt, and Weld ; bnt the real transactions of these Com- panies are locked up in the breasts of themselves and servants. The Nor west Mc. Kenzie stands conspicuous for his knowledge of them, the fruit of a most adventurous spirit, and of un- paralleled success. Montreal is situated on an Island surrounded by the waters of the Utawa and the St. Lawrence, which Island is twenty- eight miles in length, and ten where broadest. n •240 MONTREAL. The principal houses are built of stone, and though very expensive, are not showy on the out- side; having, on the contrary, a prison-like appearance, from the causes mentioned in a preceding part of this work : within they are commodious and warmed by means of a stove in the passage, from whence flue-pipes are con- ducted through all the rooms, which, with dou- ble windows, and sometimes double doors, render these houses warmer in winter than those in less severe climates. Farenheit's Thermometer is sometimes 20^ below Zero, or 52*^ below the freezing point at Montreal, yet the inhabitants are perfectly com- fortable within doors, nor does the closeness of their rooms render the atmosphere, injurious to health, or any ways offensive. Notwithstand- ing that the generality of the Canadians muffle themselves in furs when during the nipping frost they venture in the open air, yet I am told that a peasant will frequently during the severest weather harness your calash with the neck of his shirt open. <,. om . ' Better bread is made at Montreal than at any other place which I am acquainted with. My good fortune still continued to befriend me. Mr. Livingston, Mr. Jones, and Mr. Hearne had fixed upon this day for their return to tiie United States. Mr. Hearne had a vessel CROSS THE ST. LAWRENCE. 241 of his own waiting at St. John's for himself and friends ; he then mentioned this circumstance to me, with an offer of her accommodation and an invitation to be of their party : it is scarcely ne- cessary to note my acceptance. We took break- fast at Mr. Mc. Gilvray's, where we met Gou- verneur Morris, Ashfield, and M&sson, the King's Botanist. Masson had been some time at the Cape of Good Hope, and had lately ex- plored Upper Canada ; his collections for His Majesty's Gardens at Kew, were no doubt valu- able and extensive. Morris and Masson were much entertained by the drawing and descrip- tion of the wax-plant* found among the rocks on the 14th instant. It was new to them both ; so also was the tassel-tree, which I had met with at the Little Falls of the Potowmac, and at French-town. 1 gave the seeds of the wax- plant to Mr. Morris. 9 A. M. Embarked in a canoe with a strong N. wind, arid though the waves in consequence ran very high, I saw nothing in this passage to induce Weld to represent it as so very frightful. Insensible to danger, I sat admiring the sur- rounding scenery, while the boatmen, for one hour, were striving, with all their strength and all their skill, against wind and waves, and a * Si> called from tlip wax-like appearance of that part of the plant containing the seetl. 242 LA PRAIRIE. rapid current ; — circumstances which might have filled my mind with apprehension, had I, like Weld, entered Canada by the route of Lake Champlain ; but the Rapids of the St. Lawrence had familiarized me to these scenes ; and had Weld seen himself amidst the " agreeable hor- rors"* of the Rapide des Cedres before he had made this traverse, he would have been silent as to its dangers. — Such the effect of habit. 10 A. M. Landed at Longueuil, where we found a stage which had been engaged for U A. M. After a pleasant drive of eight miles along the S. £. bank of the St. Lawrence, com- manding a fine view of Grant's Island, Montreal, the Rapids, and distant Mountains, we reached La Prairie, eight miles. Turning off to the S. £. we crossed a flat country, the land poor, the farms wretched, and the uncultivated land producing those marks of a thin and hungry soil — the Spruce Fir, the Double Spruce Fir, the Larch Fir, the Balsam Fir, the Hemlock Fir, and the White Birch, the favourite tree of the indigenous natives of this country ; it furnishes the bark with which they make their canoes, the most portable and the most elegant vessels that ever pressed the bosom of the waters. ' ' * See Lord fJarilenstone's Travels. i CHAMBLY RIVER. 243 3 p. M. Reached St. John's, twenty-six miles. We got a good dinner at Cheeseman's Tavern, a better house than I expected to find here. St. John's, though a poor Village, has all the appearance of a Sea-port and Garrison. There is a Custom-house for the entrance and clear- ance of all goods that traverse Lake Champlain, the principal channel of communication between the United States and Canada. ' J'n, .. ;^ ,:„- 6 p. M. We embarked on board the Swiftsure sloop of eighteen tons, and again met with my old luck in crossing Lakes. A more favourable wind could not have blown than what blew all this day ; it now gave us only a few expiring sighs. Having fell calm, we dropped anchor and went to bed. I was obliged to 6ne of my friends for mine. Thursday, September 25th. The Swiftsure has no cabin ; we had slept in the hold. When we turned out at six o'clock this morning, we found ourselves only four miles below St. John's, moored 0}^osite to Bingham's Tavern, where we were under the necessity of passing all this day and following night, with but indifferent accommodations; thirty miles. The cause of our detention was one of the severest gales of wind I ever wit- nessed, increasing in violence during the night. 2 I 244 C H A M B L Y H I V F. R. Friday, September 26th. ;t ..:?. t,. ■»; A. M. Found the Sloop high and dry, the storm having been from the South, had had the whole range of Lake Champlain forcing its waters into the Chambly River, and thus raising it above its natural boundaries, Our Captain had not been aware of this circumstance, and was very much out of temper to find, that on the cessation of the storm, the river suddenly retreated within its usual limits, leaving his vessel on dry land. There were no other means of getting the Sloop into her destined element but by taking out the whole of her cargo, which consisted of salt in bags. It was still a work of difficulty, and employed ten men four hours. Hi A. M. Embark and set sail with flaws from the N. W. The clouds were heavy and broken, allowing the sun to gleam upon us at intervals. 2i p. M. Pass the He aux Noix, thirty-nine miles. I should consider the proper outlet of Lake Champlain to be at this place, yet on the maps it shews us part of the River Chambly, which is represented, contrary to truth, to pre- serve nearly the same breadth to within a short distance of Pointe-au-fer. Whether Lake or River, a flock of ducks were swimming upon it ; when Jones levelled his gun, and shot one LAKE CHAM 1' LAIN. 245 dead, and broke the wing of another. The boy, our only sailor, was sent in the canoe in chase. We were highly diverted by the eager- ness and manoeuvres of the lad : many times his hand was stretched out to seize the duck, which, with a flap, or a dive, constantly evaded him. A signal was therefore thrown out for his recall. In the mean time, Jones was as actively, but more profitably employed : he had stripped his victim of his feathers, disemboweled him, dismembered him, and digested him ; — that is to say, had put him into his Digester, where, amidst the fumes of savoury sauces, he was soon prepared for our dinner. '' io '■!■ 'Ml ;i;f oniT-DjOnj V.)!}-) ixH; Uii^ 'j '^''t ■.■>*'|' .;ii"i: i- i:;KH'i''.i / M . ' r. '•*'.'. • Mi' ,•)'/ ■n:itt l*> t,n ?>tlj itJtnn litis .i»-. -ji J,; ■'■.-. ' •• > 5 1'' .ji vi ,'i. tUi,> v'jjro ij)o ,/'.>.i . •(''■:r*» 'u!l Art, I* O-J tl'"' ?Hf^>^V!.^'' >'i*' l».M;ii «.<. UNITED STATES. 'J lA'rt ; i ill! \i';lki. \'v, "ti i'ii: ,n'i(i ; ■)a«i'.M'«M, , ri ; it v'VU ' <.} (»«i{! idit Un} l,v.;i ..•.'• rl 6 p. M. Pass the Division-line and enter the United States, abreast of Rouse's Tavern, fifty- one miles from Montreal 8 p. M. Ran on a reef off Pointe-au-Fer, a dangerous point and reef projecting far into the Lake. — Slept on board. — Clear cold night. 5 ' Saturday, September 27th. 6 A. M. Landed at the Custom-house, or Cumberland-head. We here breakfasted at Ransom's Tavern, seventy-five miles. Cum- berland-head and Bay are opposite to the Grande lie, the largest Island in Lake Cham- plain, and situated in its broadest part This Island is about fifteen miles long, and from tM^o to four in width. We had passed tviro h A K C C H A i\l 1' L A 1 N . 247 other conMiderable islands between tliis and Pointe-au-Fer. * ;ui.n . lOl A. M. Re-embark ; calm. U P> M. Light head-wind from the South. 2^ p. M. Beat past Crab Island, which in the map is called St. Michael's, seventy-nine miles, a very small Island between the New York shore and the centre of the Grande lie. 6 V. M. Beat past Yaleur Island, eighty-three miles ; called by our Captain, Belcour Island. It is situated between the Southern extremity of Grande lie and the West Shore. 8 p. M. Had beat past Grande He, eighty- five miles, and gained the open part of the Bay. In consequence of a calm and light head winds, we had not advanced, during the whole of the day, at a greater rate than a mile an hour. — Light head wind during the night .{,. Sunday, September 28th. • At daylight we passed four small Islands, called in the map the Four Winds; but our Captain called them the Four Brothers, ninety- eight miles. We had passed the Two Sisters in the course of the night. — Slight rain. 9 A. M. Land on the Flat Rock, one hundred and three miles. The sloop being becalmed, we had landed to make the best of our way on 24B L A K F. r H A M 1* L A I N . toot to Mr. Hearne's. The walking along ihe lieach being very ditficult, Jones and I under- took to explore our way inland. We were soon swamped, and glad to gain the beach again. The rain now fell very heavy, and the rocks we had to scramble over became so slippery, that falls were unavoidable. I got a severe one. The rocks and stones were very curious, a re- mark which I was sorry to be obliged to make en pasaant. At the end of two miles we came to a creek which we passed in a canoe, one hundred and five miles from Montreal. This creek is called the River Bouquet in Pownall's map. After a most unpleasant walk of seven miles, which we were three hours in performing, we at mid-day reached Mr. Heame s charming retreat, situated in the recess of a small bay, whose Southern boundary is that great natural cu- riosity the Split-Rock. Soaked through with rain, and covered with dirt, we were introduced to Mrs. Heame ; her father, Mr. Bainham ; and to Miss Bainham, her sister. iiHl !•' i "Jl'Jj « .lit ; .Jjf ■. n;i:!. Our toilette made, and breakfast finished, we joined the Ladies, when Livingston bore away the palm in gallantry : in fact, Jones was not disposed, and I was too prudent to enter the lists against him. He drew Misss Bainham to a LAKE C H A M l> I. A I N. 24M favourite topic of his — Poetry. Much was said respecting Burger's Leonora. Miss B. Iiad seen two different translations of it, but there was a third which she understood had still greater merit, and that she was never able to procure. I informed Miss B. that a friend of mine at Montreal had forced my acceptance of two small Books of Poems, as a resource against ennui, should I be troubled with it during any part of my journey to New York ; and that I remarked the Poem in question in one of the Volumes. The Book was produced, and Mr. Livingston offered to copy the Poem. This gave me a fair occasion to request Miss B. would spare Mr. L. that trouble by accepting the Volumes, which would alone reconcile me to what I considered as a trespass, if not a robbery, upon Mr. Ogilvy's goodness to me, whose uniform kindness I felt too deeply to make it necessary to preserve these particular marks of it. My intention, however, was no less than to shew a sense of the obligation which I considered myself under to Mr. Heame ; and Miss Bainham, from seeing it in this light, was, no doubt, induced to accept of the trifle. Mr. Livingston having lands in this neigh- bourhood which he wished to visit, remained, with Mr. Jones, the guest of Mr. Hearne : he 250 LAKE CH A M PLA I N. ! presented me with all his spare stores, to which Mr. Heame added some bread, cheese, and tea. The Sloop having discharged her cargo of salt, I took leave of my friends, and at 3i p. M. we set sail with a favourable wind, accompanied with rain. 3| p. M. Doubled the Split-Rock. 4i p. M. Landed two passengers at Bason- harbour, Vermont, one hundred and fifteen miles from Montreal. The Sloop being without cargo or ballast, we had been under great ap- prehension, while standing across the Lake, of the vessel turning keel upwards. I had pre- pared for the event by keeping aloof from the passengers who had embarked at Mr. Heame's, and taking a station whence 1 could easily spiing overboard without fear of being entan- gled in the rigging, and afterwards regain the wreck, which, in case of upsetting, would, I knew, float keel upwards. Having landed two of our passengers, we stood before the wind, when all fear of danger to the vessel vanished ; yet if we escaped an accident, which we were all apprehensive of, we witnessed one as singular as it was unex- pected. For the probable was substituted the improbable : — Katlin. our only sailor^ except the Captain, was on deck, eating his bread and cheese, when the Captain gibed the boom. LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 25 L Seeing the boy s danger, I called out, " Katlin, " the boom ! the boom !" But instead of falling flat on the deck, he merely made a low stoop, when he was instantly knocked overboard. Knowing that he must drift into the wake of the vessel, and that the canoe was dragging astern, I called out, " Catch at the canoe! " catch at the canoe !" Finding that the boy had not laid hold of the canoe, ray servant endea- voured to untie it and then to cut it : fortunately I saw and prevented him. I now begged the Captain would jump into the canoe and go after the boy, who we heard repeatedly call, " Bring the canoe! why don't you bring the " canoe !" — For some time the Captain seemed determined to make no effort to save the boy. He exclaimed, " He's lost! he's lost! he can't ♦' swim ! Besides, how can I find hira ? Its so " dark, ^ can't see the sloop's length ; and who's " to take care of the sloop?" — I now in a man- ner forced the man overboard, saying, " For " God's sake jump into the canoe ; do your best, " or the boy's death will lay heavy on you. The *' sloop ran but run ashore, ami surely we know " how to prevent that !" The Captain rowed off in the canoe, and we gave one shout that help was coming. To describe the state of our feelings at this time, would be impossible : not a word was spoken : ■2 K B'l ' m II. 11' '2r)2 LAhE ('. HAMFLAIN. we scarcely dared to draw our breath. It was half-past eight o'clock, and the night so dark, that Katlin was not seen after he fell overboard. The sloop at the time was under full sail, and going at the rate of five knots an hour. Every moment Ratlin's cries became more distant and faint, and when the Captain went in search of him, his voice was no longer heard. For fifteen minutes we were in a state of most anxious suspense : we then distinguished the Captain's cheers, which we heartily returned . ...:..,/.,,.. < He related that he had left the sloop a con- sideri ble distance before he received any answer to his loud and repeated calls, and that Katlin was so exhausted when be reached him, that he had great difficulty in getting him into the canoe. . ,. . Ratlin's relation almost exceeded credibility. He had heard my warning, and thought that he bad stooped sufficiently low for the boom to pass over his head. He had also heard my exclamation to seize the canoe, which he was on the point of doing when it gave a sudden swing and baffled him ; that finding he could support his head above water, be dismissed all fear, expecting that the canoe would come every moment to his assistance. When he no longer heard our cheers from the sloop, hope began to fail him, and he was on the poioi of LAKE CHAM PLAIN. 253 resigning himself to a watery grave Mrhen he heard the Captains life-restoring voice. Ooi telling Katlin that we despaired of his safety, as we understood that he could not swim, he replied, " Nor can I ! I was never before out " of my depth ; I am ibnd of bathing, and I ** have often seen lads what diey call tread the " water, and that's what I did." The truth of this account was made manifest by . the boy not only retaining his hat on his head, but its being perfectly dry ; and what adds to the singularity of this event, the boy never quitted his grasp of the knife that he was eating his bread and cheese with. It now ap- peared that it was a most fortunate circumstance that ray servant in his ccmfusion could neither untie nor cut the tow-rope. Had he effected this purpose, the boy must have perished ; for had there been light enough for him to have seen the canoe, he could nxat have swam to it. 9 p. M. Pass the Strait between Crown-point and Chimney-point, on the opposite, or Vermont Shore, one hundred and twenty-seven miles. Midnight. Abreast of Ticonderoga and Su- gar-hill, and Fort Independence on the Vermont side ; one hundred and forty-three miles. Be- tween Sugar-hill and Fort Ticonderoga is the outlet of Lake George. It was by gaining pus session of Sugar-iiiU that Burjfoyne oblij^ed ilic 254 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. Americans to abandon Ticonderoga in the night ofthe5thof July, 1777. The Lake now became very narrow, but highly romantic, being hemmed in by the steep sides of the mountains ; certain points present- ing their bare cliffs, while others were profusely wooded. — Kept the deck almost the whole night.- :■ •' • ■■" '--'■■'■>•■ ■:. .'.•_,, ■ ■ . Monday, September 29th. 4 A. M. Mistook the Channel and ran on the Mud. ! { I j> ' •' ■; • • •'* ■ ■ ■; 6 a.m. Cold Spring, one hundred and sixty- three miles from Montreal. It being calm, we took to our sweeps. The Channel now became most intricate and tortuous ; on each side were the Drowned Lands, which in wet seasons are covered with water : the marsh was at this time dry, and its tall reeds loaded with innumerable filackbirds ; we also saw Snipes and Wild Ducks. But what principally engaged my at- tention was a mountain remarkable for its height and form, and covered with a fine variety of Wood, the White Pine pre-eminent, whose fo- liage displayed the richest painting of Autumn. The Scenery was altogether grand and roman- tic, beyond what even the Hudson itself could shew. Rocks and Mountains, Bays and Pro- LAKE CHAM PLAIN. 255 montories, were combined with that happiness of effect which Nature only can produce, and which is in vain looked for in the ideal repre- sentations of her by the artist. ,,; We saw many traces of the Musk- Rat, which seems to have learned his art of constructing; his habitation from the Beaver ; with this differ- ence, however, — that while the latter appears to trust his security to the strength of his works, the former more wisely trusts to the difficulties he places in the way of an enemy's approach. Should man attempt to drain his marsh, he is sure to tap the embankment. I saw no cultivation on the borders of this part of the Lake, except two or three recent clearances. — Morning clear and calm. — Break- fast on board. lU A. M. Enter South-bay, one hundred and seventy-one miles. Landed in Vermont, and walked through the Swamp, as from want of wind I could easily keep up with the sloop. Gathered a few INuts of the White Hickory, which I found very bitter. i Noon. After a walk of one mile, (one hun- dred and seventy-two miles) I re-embarked, a light air from the S. having sprung u|). 1 p. M. Pass Putnam Rock, one hundred and seventy-two miles, where General Putnam, with twenty-four men, defeated five hundred French 256 LAKE CU A M P L A I N. and Indians. Pass Fiddlers Elbow, so culled from a sudden turn. li p. M. Pass Castleton River, one hundred and seventy-two miles and a half. 2 p. M. My Voyage b^ng conclnded, land at Skenesborough, now called Whitehall, one hun- dred and seventy-three miles. Wrote to Mr. Heame. ■'• ••' ■..- :si.. a i. ... — :h ^ ,(.:i , -. ,:. I had now traversed the vrhole length of Lake Champlain, celebrated in the annals of the American Wars, and frequently visited for the beauty of its scenery. Its length is es- timated at one hundred and fifty miles, reckon- ing from the extreme points of embarkation, Skenesborough and St. John's. This distance between the two principal ports and marts of Trade on this Lake is pretty correct, as the sum of the distances set down in this Journal is one hundred and forty-seven miles. The maps ge- nerally give that part of the Lake lying between Ticonderoga and Skenesborough the name of South River and South Bay, a distance of thirty miles ; and that lower division between the lie aux Noix and St. John's is very properly given to the Chambly River, which is an additional reduction of thirteen miles, leaving one hundred and four for the length of the Lake, which in its broadest part does not exceed eighteen miles. Having hired a waggon to transport myself, ST. ANNS. 257 servant, and baggage, I at 3 p. m. set out upon my journey to Albany. My road lay along Wood-Creek ; the land on each side is bad, and hemmed in by mountains. ■<}'"'. ^t'-'^-^^^'^i^fi^i^*- 6 p. M. Reach St Ann's, one hundred and eighty-four miles. I found Lamb's an indiffer- ent Tavern, but himself a very obliging Land- lord. After dinner I dismissed my driver and his waggon. I had contracted with the owner of the waggon that he should take me to Albany for ten dollars, a distance of seventy-three miles ; but as he gave me to understand that I was the only person obliged, I was determined to convince this surly Dutchman that there were others who would consider the obligation in a bargain of this kind as mutual. On making my wants known, Mr. King of- fered me his services for eight dollars. Nothing could be more moderate. I was aware of the imposition practised on this road, and when at Skenesborough I was asked twenty dollars, and informed that others had given seventy, I replied, " I know this is all true ; but I know " also that you are Dutchmen, and if you do " not take ten, I will walk." It was in a common country waggon, seated on two chairs, with straw under their feet, and not even a tilt-cloth over their heads, that the British Minister and his Lady traversed this part of the country. : 'irjQ 8 T. A N N 8. Mr. Morris, on the contrary, made this jour- ney with a princely retinue, with Carriages, Tenl, Maitre d'Hotel, Cook, and Kitchen es- tablishment. He had guns and fishing-tackle ; and wiiile he admired the beauties of Lake George, of the St. Lawrence, and the woods of Canada, he made them amply supply his table with Fish and Game ; — so that the Representa- tive of a Republic travelled like a Prince, while the Representative of a Monarch travelled like a Republican. Hn Tuesday, September 30th. ',.%•?. ^ A 6h A. M. Left St. Ann's. Mr. King requested that I would breakfast at his house, one mile further on, which 1 did on my own provisions, having more spare stores than would serve me to Albany. ■ifi' i /n'o'Tr-j -, My road lay over a rough country, no part of which had been under cultivation more than two or three years ; — a country which checked Burgoyne in his rapid career of victory; — a country whose natural difficulties he found it an Herculean labour to overcome, and to which the Americans were more indebted for the sur- render of Burgoyne and his Army, than to the courage, or the superior number of their troops. Passed through the new Settlement of Kings- ton to Sandy-hill, one hundred and ninety-four HUDSON RIVER. 259 miles, where I tirst got sight of the Hudson River, and fell in with the Road from Lake George, which Lake is ten miles to the N. W. ; and Glens Falls on the Hudson, about two miles to the W. These Falls were highly worthy of a visit, but I did not know of their existence till I arrived at Albany. 9k P.M. Reached Fort Edward, one hundred and ninety-six miles. Hi A.M. Dined on my own provisions at Glusher's, two hundred and two miles. Noon ; proceed. I p. M. Cross the Hudson, at two hundred and seven miles. My road from Fort Edward to this place had been along the E. side of the River; but from this ferry it keeps the right bank all the way to Albany. Here is a re- markable feature in the River ; it is still, deep, and spreads out into two Bays, that to the West running far inland; the whole length of the one to the East we traversed in the Ferry, landing at the very extremity of a sheltered Cove. It was probably at this place that Burgoyne passed his army, and whose encampment ex- tended hence to the Fish-kill, a distance of two miles, from the 10th to the 17th of October, 1777, when this gallant band was under the mortify- ing necessity of piling its arms. Passed the Fish-kill or Schuyler's Creek, 2 L 200 s r I L L w A r r. h . two hundred and nine miles. To tiie right I 8aw the Church at Saratoga ; on the left, due east, was a mountain which I had long had in view : this remarkable mountain is, 1 have great reason to suppose, the same which 1 observed from the Heights W. of Albany. 2^ p. M. Took a second slight refreshment at Fitzsimmons' Tavern, two hundred and four- teen miles. 3J p. M. Proceed on foot, and cross the two fields of battle of the 19th of September and 7th of October, 1777. Pass through Stillwater, Iirettily stiuated. 5^ p. M. My driver again baited his horses, two hundred and twenty-three miles ; proceed on ft)ot. ' 7^ p. M. Take up my lodging for the night at a Dutch Tavern, two hundred and thirty-one miles, having journeyed forty-seven miles this day ; — good travelling for a farmer's waggon ! My Landlord, like the generality of Dutch Innkeepers, was churlish, and extravagant in his charges. The soil of America appears not to have any influence upon the character they brought with them from the Fens of Holland ; they are still to the tenth and twentieth generar tion X>tt/c/* in person, dress, mind, and manners. On crossing the Hudson, the Dutch Ferryman asked me for my fare as a foot passenger. T H 1<: C O H O K 8 1- A L L S. 2(n " How 80 ?" — " Because you got out of the " waggon ; iiad you remained in it I must liave " been obliged to consider you as part of the " load." — Fine pleasant day and evening ; moon- " light night. . - Wednesday, Octouer 1st. 6 A. M. Begin my last day's journey. Pass through the handsome Village of Waterford,* or Halfmoon-point, two hundred and thirty- three miles. View of Lansingburg,t on the op- posite side of the River. Cross the Mohawk, over the Bridge at the foot of the Cohoes Falls, near which I breakfasted at Forth's Tavern, two hundred and thirty-five miles. After breakfast 1 visited the celebrated Cataract of the Cohoes, and strange to say, I was more pleased with it now that I had seen Niagara, than I was live years ago, when I beheld it with disappoint- ment. I then expected a grand and romantic Fall ; I now amused myself with comparing its features and character with those of the many * " On December the 3(1, 1804, an excellent Bridge, 800 feet " in leng^th, across the Hudson, from Waterford to Lansingburg, " was o|iened with inuuh ceremony and eclat. A itrocession, " military, civil, and masonic, was formed at Lansing'Inirg, " crossed the Bridge, and partook of an entertainment at Water- *' ford ; the Governor and other respectable characters being " among the guests." — New York Paper. f I visited tiiis place and Waterford on thf 23d of June, 179.J. u 26-2 TROY. Falls which I had lately seen. Niagara over- hangs its base; — this projects in massy abut- ments; the Rock is of a very hard r^uality, yet in the bed of the River, which iu solid Rock, the water has worn deep furrows and channels ; so that in one place, the water being low, the River was collected into one of these channels, about thirty feet wide, where the stream was very deep and rapid, all the rest of the bed being dry excepting the pot-holes — circular ca- vities formed by the rotary motion of stones and water. This River furnishes Pike, Bass, and Trout. 9 A. M. Proceed. 9} A. M. Opposite to Troy, the view of which is highly beautiful from the Ferry-house; a noble River ran in front, and in its rear rises a high screen of varied woodlands. I now passed through a range of meadows that might vie with the celebrated German Flats, previously mentioned. 1 may here observe, that the country improved in beauty and fertility as I proceeded from Skenesborough to Albany. I had observed on my route Pheasants, Black, Red, and Ground Squirrels, a Sea-gull, and a Skunk. I had almost forgotten to observe, that in the meadows just spoken of, are some of the noblest Elms I ever saw, and many covered with Grape-vines to their very summits. A I' I' U () A Cll TO ALBANY. 203 I was now no longer in a Htrange coimtry ;— step by step I recognized some well known oU» ject pointing out the vicinity oi Vlhany. Fiir in the horizon rose the Katskill Mountains, so beautifully arranged as justified my fuiiner ad- miration of them. The Hudson, broad, rapid, and clear, reflected the early beams of the morning, and the neat and comfortable dwell- ings lining its eastern banks with the towns of Troy, Lansingburg, and Bath, overtopped and contrasted by the neighbouring wooded heights : these, with the gay spreading meadows and their vine-covered elms, formed a glowing scene, that gave fire to my spirits ; for a more animated prospect I had not beheld since I left New York. All that eagerness and anxiety, all that " pleasing hope and fond desire," which agitates the bosom of those returning after a long absence to the abodes where affection has been awakened, and where expecting friends are stretching out the arms of welcome, took possession of my soul : not that Albany, or its inhabitants, had any strong hold upon ray affec- tions ; but in Albany 1 saw the haven from whence I had departed, and where I should end, all that had been new and doubtful of an Expedition, which, however pleasantly prose- cuted, and however happily terminated, had not been without its cares, its apprehensions, and its dangers. r" m ,1 ii[ 264 ALBANY " The Genesee Fever' was still proverbial for its malignancy, though tiaw unjustly so ; yet a schoolfellow of mine, Mr. Dennison, of Not- tingham, would have been added to the list of its martyrs, had not the benevolence of Captain Williamson interfered. Many others of my ac- quaintance who visited the Genesee were seized with the fever ; indeed few of them escaped it. Shooting the Rapids of the St. Lawrence will never be considered as boy's play: unknown dangers, too, no doubt, oft hung about me, but hidden from my sight and averted by that Almighty Being, who, in two impressive in- stances, snatched me from destruction when all hope of other aid had died within me. With such sentiments, (and who in like circumstances would not entertain such sentiments ?) could 1 do other than hail the sight of Albany ? lOi A. M. Reach Lewis's Tavern, Albany, two hundred and forty-live miles from Montreal. Waited upon the Rev. Thomas Ellison, Mr, Ramsay, and Mr. Walsh. — Tea and Supper at Mr. Ellison's. — Pleasant bright day. Thursday, October 2d. r; I' liH" Wrote an account of my adventures to John Johnstone, Esq. of Geneva. Met with Mr. Archibald Kane, who had so well entertained UR' at Canaj(»iiiir('r. Dint'd with the Mayor, ; Vti A L IJ A N Y. 2U5 Philip Van Rensselaer, Esq. who invited a large party to meet me. — Took my passage for Nev/ York. , . Friday, October 3d. I passed the morning in wandering about the environs of Albany. M P.M. Embarked. On stepping on board the Sloop Magdelene, Capt. Wendal, I recog- nized Mr. Cuyler, of Green-bush, from whom I had received civilities on my first visit to Albany in 1795, and father to Mr. Wm. Cuyler, of Bath, Steuben County, with whom I had formed a friendly intimacy during my residence in Captain Williamson's family. Mr. Cuyler introduced me to my fellow-pas- sengers, Mrs. Bruce, a widow lady of New York; and Mrs. Le Roy, his daughter, the wife of Mr. Robert Le Roy, Merchant, of New York. I was so much pleased with the appear- ance of these Ladies, as to be happy in so re- spectable an introduction ; while to them it was no little gratification to find that their future as- sociate was no stranger, but one to whose pro- tection Mr. Cuyler cheerfully confided them as his acquaintance and his son's friend. Mrs. Le Roy had her two children witli her ; .Tacob, about seven years of age, and Ml I'm ')l ii W6 THE LOWER OVERSLAUGH. I Louisa, in her third year. Immediately after ray introduction, Mr. Guyler took his leave, and we set sail with a smart fair wind at N. W. 5 p. M. Grounded on the Upper Overslaugh, three miles. 7 p. M. Grounded on the Lower Overslaugh, eight miles. As there was no prospect of our getting over this shoal till the tide had attained its highest point, we took in all our sail and car- ried out an anchor into deep water. This Lower Overslaugh has seldom more than eight feet water upon it even in Spring tides, and our Sloop drew seven feet, though a great part of her lading was on board a Lighter, and not to be shipped till we had passed these shoals, which are a severe interruption to the navigation between New York and Albany, and which might otherwise be carried on in vessels of larger burthen than are now employed in this trade. There are a variety of channels among those beds of sand called the Overslaughs, and the main channel shifts almost every year. The remedy is easy : block up all the channels ex- cept one, and the water will accumulate there and keep it ever free. Having made all snug on deck, we sat down to an excellent supper, which had been sent on board by Mr. Cuyler. I found the two Ladies precisely what I wished Ladies in a ship's cabin THE SLOOPS CABIN. ^67 to be ; — not so free and ecisy, as to forget the manners of the drawing-room ; nor so starch and full of self-importance, as to raise contempt and disgust. •" '♦ '^ ^-^^ <^'« <-** * ^ '•rMrAt\2\ Hitherto I had voyaged with Ladies too free, or too consequential. Having at this time no- thing to fear from coarse manners, or mistaken pride, I had only to guard against, and prevent, another source of much uneasiness and con- straint, which, among those the best disposed for harmonious intercourse, inevitably arises from the want of that proper understanding which delicacy, seemingly, forbids. 1 thus opened the subject: — " You will observe, Ladies, " that we all sleep in the same cabin ; that a slight " curtain only separates us. I know from ex- *' perience that a system, understood by both ** parties, should be adopted for our mutual " convenience ; for where false delicacy hds pre- " vented explanation, — constraint, inquietude, " and real indelicacy, has been the consequence. " My plan is simply this : — that we sup at " eight, breakfast at eight, and dine, as wind, " weather, and circumstances permit ; — that we " chat and talk an hour or two after supper, " when I will keep the watch on deck for an " hour,-— time sufficient, surely, for you to put •• on your night-caps ! one hour before, and two *' hours after dinner, I will leave you in full 2 M it 2()8 CASTLSTON. " possession of the cabin ; but at no time do I " wish to have exclusive possession of it myself, ** as I shall always make my toilet before " breakfast. I am an early riser, and will walk " the deck till you announce breakfast." The Ladies very kindly thanked me for yield- ing so much to their accommodation, assuring me, at the same time, that I had removed their only objection to the sloops, so superior in other respects to the journey by land. — Plea- sant weather and fair wind, N. W. ; very bright moonlight night. ., ,j _., , , . * , ,, K'i' ,■!*:*«">< iTS-?,(«: -t\'i 1;". Saturday, October 4th. -'*'**, ;v1 Went early on deck ; the dawn brought on a heavy fog. 7 A. M. Being high water, we endeavoured to warp off the shoal ; we succeeded only in part, and were obliged to wait another tide. It is always high water at Albany at the rising and setting of the moon. • - < - ^ r? 8 A. M. The fog having dispersed, I took the boat and rowed to Castleton, on the £. shore, and having procured milk and eggs, I hastened back to breakfast. On the W. shore 1 noticed Colonel Nicol's house, where we landed the accomplished tutor of his children on my voy- age up. An Island which lay a short dis- WILD GRAPES. 26d tence above us, I recognized to be Overberg or High-hill Island, which in June last afforded me nothing better than sour cherries ; I deter- mined, therefore, to try my fortune after break- fast on a smaller Island that lay nearer to the Sloop, and was about two miles in length. I took two hands in the boat with me, and finding the Island uninhabited, we took formal pos- session of it. The province of discovery was left to me, while my companions undertook to procure a mess of fish. There was great plenty of good Timber on the Island, and so much Underwood, that I found it very difficult to make the tour of it. I collected the small black frost-grape, and the large tough fox-grape. I was informed that on some of the Islands in this part of the Hudson, there were not only other species of the fox- grape, but also a red grape, and a very fine white grape, both unknown in other parts of the United States. ' ' >• On re-joining the two sailors at our rendez- vous, I found that they had caught a dish-full of Yellow Perch. ' On my return on board, I was sorry to ob- serve that we had received two additional pas- sengers, a Mr. Thurman, and his niece. Miss Brazier. <5 p- M. Being high water we succeeded in 270 COEYEMAN S ISLAND. warping off the Overslaugh. We now took on board our full lading from the Lighter, our cargo consisting of four hundred barrels of pot- ash, of four cwt. each, value £3 per cwt. or £4,800* New York Currency, being thirty dol- lars per barrel. >;;. . <>. j, -. ;^p^:^T..yjj-^^^ .^-y. ,ij«,f.;r' Falling calm We out sweeps, and rowed three miles, eleven miles from Albany, when we came to an anchor. — Very fine day and night. Sunday, October 5th. C ♦, rf.*,-'* K .Hi O As the moon set the fog rose. 9i A. M. Fog cleared off with a light air from the North. 10 A. M. Light head- wind from the South. :. Noon ; Drifted to leeward of an Island op- posite to Coeyeman's, twelve miles. Here was another detention, but fully compensated to the original party, by the beauty of the surrounding scenery, and the harmony of our society. Mr. Thurman was a sensible person, of a quiet and serious cast His niece was apparendy of nn unsociable disposition, which every effort of our's to amend proved unavailing. She seemed best pleased when left to her own meditations ; and these, judging from her countenance, were not very profound. ,;, , , ^ .. . ,■ , . . ,. * As the New York Currency is eig;ht shillings the doDar, .£4,800 is 12,000 dollars, or .£2,700 sterling. VILLAGE OF COEYEMAN's. 27 J As for Jacob, he Mras too wild for his mother, and was put entirely under my care. Louisa was my little darling. In the evening I took Jacob with me, (a great favour) and made a trip to the Village of Coeyeman's, consisting of about thirty houses on the W. shore, and at the mouth of Coeyeman's-kill. Visited General Mc. Kay's. — Calm morning ; rain in the night ,.f, Monday, October 6th. "•'i During the whole of this morning we had d severe storm of wind and rain, thunder and lightning from the South. Our situation to lee- ward of Coeyeman's Island, which we yesterday considered as a piece of bad fortune, now turned out to be the most secure situation we could have chosen. 3 p. M. The storm having spent its fury, and the wind having got into the W. and being mo- derate, we got under weigh. "" '' ' ' 3i p. M. Abreast of Baltimore, fourteen miles. This is a shabby Village on the W. shore, and contains about twenty-five houses. " ' 5 p. M. Abreast of Mr. Mc. Machin's house, near Kinderhook Landing, on E. side, twenty miles. Moderate as was our present rate of sailing, we made still less progress in the night, the wind having less influence than the tide. 272 CITY OF HUDSON. Tuesday, October 7th. ><; 1 A. M. Came to an anchor off Lunenburg, thirty-four miles. 6 A. M. As I did not care to trust myself among the Algerines* I took the boat, and al- lowing my young friend to accompany me, we crossed over to the £. side of the River, and landed at the City of Hudson, thirty-four miles, where we procured milk, bread, and beef, but no porter could be had. Jacob was quite de- lighted with the frequent trips I made on shore, when I never failed to take him with me, if cir- cumstances would admit of it. It had two bene- ficial effects : it put him on his good behaviour, and tranquilized his mother, who never thought him safe but when I b'»d charge of him ; for, like a true " Pickle" his delight was to alarm her by running into danger : the more dan- ger, the more fun. Louisa saw her interest in these expeditions ; — she never was forgotten in our trafficking with the natives ; she took care to be the first to rummage the basket, and gene- rally found something for her own store-room. 8 A. M. Weighed anchor. The wind being S. we had to beat down the River. 10 A. M. Abreast of the Village at the mouth of the Katskill, forty miles. It is a pretty situa- • Sec page 1.5. K A T S K I L L MOUNTAINS. 273 tion in Jay's Valley. We had a fine prospect, including the Katskill Mountains. On the op- posite or E. side of the River was Oakhill, the seat of John Livingston, Esq. of New York ; forty miles. — Up top-sail. 11 A. M. The Old Manor-House of the Liv- ingstons, on E. side, forty-two miles. 2i p. M. Chancellor Livingston and his mo- ther's house, a fine situation, fifty miles. Wind increased. — Down top-sail. 3i p. M. Abreast of the pretty and well-built Village of Redhook, E. side, fifty-two miles. The Katskill Mountains now appeared to their greatest advantage. 44 p. M. A stately house, built by John Liv- ingston, which, with two hundred acres of land, cost fifty thousand dollars, E. side, fifty-six miles. When we were abreast of the Esopus Meadows, (sixty miles) we thought it time to fill our water-casks, but to our vexation this work had been deferred too long, for the water was already brackish, at this distance of one hundred miles from New York. The Captain, in justification, assured us, that he had never known the water brackish so high up the River ; that the water is generally fresh in the High- lands, and sometimes even in Haverstraw-bay, sixty miles below our present situation. 10 p. M. Abreast of Poughkeepsie, E. side, half way between Albany and New York, 274 NKWBU RO H. eiglity miles. The wind had been very variable the whole day, and our rate of sailing about three knots an hour. — Fine clear weather. Wednesday, October 8th. •." > 1 A. M. Came to an anchor. 6 A.M. Weighed anchor with wind S W. 8 a.m. Took the boat and landed at New- burgh, on the W. shore, ninety-eight miles. This is a large and neat town, and a considerable part of it appeared to be recently built. If I may judge from a Newspaper printed here once a week, the great body of the inhabitants are highflying Democrats. The title of the Paper is, " The Rights of Man,** and sold for one dollar and a half, or six shillings and nine- pence sterling per annum, jftreakfast waited my return. 1 brought on board a supply of bread, milk, butter, tea, and porter ; for the porter I paid three shillings and six-pence per bottle, or two shillings sterling. "•' ~ ' 10 a.m. Passed the small Village of New Windsor, on the W. side, one hundred miles. The Southerly wind died gradually away. On its falling calm we came to an anchor ; instantly Jacob and I jumped into the boat, and landed at a solitary house called Marlborough, near the mouth of Murderer's Creek, on the W. side, one hundred and one miles. Wild chesnuts were all that this place afforded us. M THE HIGHLAND 8. 275 We here received a forecastle passenger on board, — a black wench, who surprised me much by addressing me by name. She had been servant to my Landlady at New York, Mrs. Ford, a buxom widow, who married Belvidere, a miserable Frenchman, who not being able to pay for his board and lodging, was happy to surrender his person. 5 p. M. Weighed anchor ; the wind being from the S. we were obliged to beat down the River. At this place the River forms a large Bay, contracting at Polleple, or Porpoise Island, being the entrance into the Highlands. PoUeple's Island appears to have been the foreground of Weld's view on the Hudson, the Mountain on the right being the Butter Moun- tain, and that on the left the Face Mountain ; though it has more the appearance of a fancy piece, so little is it characteristic of the sublime and romantic scenery of the Highlands. The profile of the Face Mountain so strongly resem- bles the profile of the human face, that 1 had for some time my doubts whether art had not assisted in improving the likeness. I have seen other blockheads which did not possess so sen- sible a countenance. 8 p. M. Abreast of West-point, one hundred and five miles. 10 p. M. St. Anthony's Nose, Fort Clinton, 2 N 27« T A P A N BAY. and Fort Montgomery, one liundnMl and nine miles.* VIM \ 11 p. M. Pass Peekskill, on E. side, and Dun- derberg, or Thunder Mountain, on W. side, one hundred and twelve miles. Midnight. Pass Yerplank-point, on £. side, and Stoney-point, on W. side, and enter Haver- straw Bay. Thursday, October 9th. 6a.m. Pass Teller's-point, on the E. side, and Verdrielige-hook, on the W. side, one hun- dred and twenty-five miles, and enter the Tapan- bay. 10 a. m. Abreast of Tarry-town, one hundred and thirty miles. The wind being still S. we continued to beat down the River. Noon. Came to an anchor during the flood- tide ; took the boat and went on shore ; got a supply of bread, milk, hay, and apples. We were here informed that a sloop on her voyage up from New York was lost in the Bay durinjj the severe gale of the 6th. ' : - This event most strongly impressed u|)on us the folly of repining at what we called " bad * See the Plate, where St. Anthony is in front, Fort Clinton on the left, and Fort Mont|;oinery on the right. On asccailini; the River the Plate represents St. Anthony on the right ; and Fort Clinton is designated hy the house of Monsieur Diicet. ai« rAPAN fJAV. i«d Fort Montgomery, one humhed aruJ nine ntites.* 1 1 p. u. Pa«8 1% on E. side, and Dua-? ane fe«ttl«'^ ■ --si**. and Sfot*ey-po»at, oa W. t*ic!e, and enter Hav* r* straw Bay Thi'Rsdav, Octobeh Oth. mA %'tmiitw^?'-'km>k.i ■;**,. •*- vv , 5»t«l«'. ot*e him* drt^ ifcftd fweririy-five «liJtes,^sWld enter tk:- Ta^H^- b&f. 10 AM. Abreast of 'rarry-towij, oa« huiidreil and thirty miles. The wind being still S. Wf continued lo beat down the; River. "■ * ' Noon. Carae to an audi or during the riood- tiit m snpph- #f y^ftss,, t»tli, ^f. md ^}p\m. We w«re here i»l"or«M?«l tlia* a sloop on lur voyage up fr«Jiai B8«w Y«r% !•«« lo»*t in the Bay regsed ujH»n «» the foll|. ©if f«f*»«fMf at what we called '* bad m 65 © ^ * Ste«lhe l****^, '.^ijsw^ Jli. Aiithrtn.v is in fronts Fort CliiUoii . =^ the left, and F(*rt Mw-^s^nmi-t y *m Ute right. On HscttMttiiijg ?,j- River the Pbte i«!»,i(( ^.tr'1 ''.■-■'' .•' >f ;» V J- ■ ^1^ I ROUTE rROM ALBANY TO NIAGARA, Sic i(c. ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO NIAGARA, AND UPPER AND LOWER CANADA; AND THENCE TO HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIAj Extracted from the Minutes of Mr. Clay, of New York, taken in 1798; those of Mr. L. taken in 1799; and an anonymous Route received from Captain Ltman, of Nova Scotia.— The Notes annexed to this Route are by Captain Williamson, in 1799; and the Author of the preceding Tour, 1800. Albany* to Schenectady, sixteen miles ; a daily Stage. Fort Schuyler, now Utica, ninety- six miles. From Schenectady to Fort Schuyler you may take the Mail either on the N. or S. side of the Mohawk River. I would not ad- Miles. * From Albany to Schenectady, 16 Bent's, 30 John Fonda's, 40 Dewight's, 56 Hudson's Indian Castle, . . 70 Aidridge's, German Flats, .80 Hotel, Fort Schuyler, ... 96 Hence, the road from Fort Schuyler to the Genesee, from being, ill the month of June, 1797, little better than an Indian path, was 2 O 284 ROUT E. vise going by water. The lliver has many Rapids, and is a tedious business of four days. If you intend to travel on horseback, you must purchase horses at Fort Schuyler, and please to observe they will ask you one hundred dollars for what you will get for sixty. Tavern, in Utica, is a dirty, bad house, but you will find no other unless the new one is completed, which I expect must be done, and is a hand- some one. C. Schwartz Hotel is an excellent house. Stages run from Albany to Utica, where horses may be purchased cheap and good. N. B. — Take Saddles and Bridles from New York, or any other large city. L. Miles. *T • J' n^ ) 1 11 a pretty good house. C. * Laird slaverns,^. , ,. , > 107 a tolerable house. L. The Landlady, a buxom dame, fond of com- pliments. C. so far improved, that a Stage started from Fort Sciiiiyler on the 30th of September following, and arrived at the Hotel, Geneva, in the afternoon of llie third day, with four passengers. This line of road having been established by law, not less than fifty families settled on it in the space of four months after it wan opened, ft now bids fair to be, in a few years, one continued Settlement from Fort Srhuyirr to the Genesee River. All lust Winter (1797) two Stages, one of them a Mail Stage, ran from Geneva and Canadarqua to Albany weekly. Williamton. * Laird's, on the Great Genesee Road, 106 miles. W. ROUTE. 285 The Old Woman tells strange stories of the Indians; at their first Settlement, twelve years ago, there was not one house W. of them. L. Oneida Castle,* one hundred and nineteen miles, a Village of the Oneidas. Schonandoc is the Chief, a fine old fellow, seventy years of age ; speaks French a little. You may intro- duce yourself to him. C. . i in Wemps's Tavern,"!" one hundred and twenty- three miles ; a clean house, two good beds. L. This man is very intelligent and attentive. A small log-house. I expect his new house is complete. You must stop here to sleep. C. Canadaraga, one hundred and twenty-nine miles. A dirty Hotel is miserably kept here. At the Indian Village an Indian keeps a Ta- vern, which curiosity only would lead you to. L. Wood's, one hundred and thirty-five miles. Keeler's, one hundred and forty-one ; clean and tolerable — better than Wood's. * Van Epps's, near the Oneida Reservation, 112 miles. W. t July 5t(i, 1800. Slept at Wemps's, in a neat boarded house, adjoining his old log-house; there are seven good beds in the new part; much pleased with the neatness and attention of the people. J.M. Sills's, at the Deep Spring, 129 miles. . .., July 6th. Breakfasted at Sayles's, near the Deep Spring, 143 miles ; neat people ; Deep Spring worth visiting; water good. \\u were novv in the Military Township of Manlius. J. M. •28(1 ROUT K. One hundred and forty-Nix miles, to lireak- faat. TliiH Inn m five miles from the Salt Springs. The men employed on those works are con- stantly troubled with the ague and fever. A quantity of Salt may be procured here sulKcient to supply all America. C. -; » • " . Old Keeler's, one hundred and forty-three miles. li ..:^ Onondaga Hollow, one hundred and Jforty- six miles, Squire Tyler's ; a good-looking house, but dirty and ill kept. Six miles from this, on Lake Onondaga, the great public Salt-works are to be seen. Enquire the state of health there, if it is late in the Summer. L. Rice's, one hundred and fifty-six miles ; clean and comfortable. Contrive to sleep at this house, as there is not a good one between it and Geneva. Leonard's Inn, one hundred and seventy miles ; a very dirty, bad log-house. You will find two or three new Taverns built near this place ; suppose are completed by this time ; about eighteen or twenty miles from Keeler's. Cayuga,* one hundred and seventy-six miles; * Cayuga, Harris's Tavern, 186 miles. Bacon and grass were all that was to be met with here, — worse accommodations than I had yet met with. The New Inn is not yet finished; am since informed that this building is now intended for a Court- house. Bordering the Lake, near Harris's Tavern, is a fine Spring of Water, which at present supplies the Town. J. M. U O V T K. m7 it had Tavern, a tietter wus uhortly tu Im3 estub- •II li. Cayuga Lake, one hundred and eighty-four miles. A good Tavern watt building here on the top of the hill : the one on the edge of the Lake was vile and dirty. ., (i .., , ., J'erry,* one hundred and seventy-seven miles, across Caynga Lake, — a beautiful ocene. X. , Geneva, t one hundred and ninety-eight miles; a fine handsome Tavern. You had better re- main here tvv^o or three days, to recover your- self. C. Geneva on Seneca Lake ; \ a charming situa- tion. The Hotel is established and supported * A bridge is now built across the Lake at the Ferry ; was be- gun in May, 1799, an': '.-j;n;! r c- Ganson will be troublesome if he is suffered to get tipsy. He is the last Settler between Genesee River and Buffaloc Creek on Lake Erie. Seven miles on the Road, the Holland Company's Purchase commences, and where they had a Store-house for the Surveyors, at which Mr. EUicot, or a Clerk, staid, and would allow strangers to rest there : but it was ex- pected some Settlements would be made be- tween Ganson's and Buffaloe, in the Spring of 1800, and the Store-house deserted. It is there- fore requisite to make particular enquiries before you come to Genesee River respecting this part of the Road. Enquire also about the Road through Tantewante Swamp, which is much the nearest to Niagara ;* but sometimes dan- * Should curiosity induce you to visit the Falls of Niagara, you will proceed from Geneva by the State Road, to the Genesee River, which you will cross at New Hartford, west of which you w:ll find the country settled for about twelve miles; but after that, for sixty-6ve miles, to Nia^ra River, the country still remains a wilderness. This road was used so much last year (1707) by people on business, or by those whom curiosity had led to visit the Falls of Ni^ara, that a station was fixed at the Big Plains to shelter Travellers. At this place there are two Roads that lead to Niagara River ; the South Road govs by Buffaloe Creek, the is ROUTE. 291 gerous in wet weather, and always difficult to find. If no new Settlements are made, you will have to take some provisions. L. :i^'> ' From Ganson's to Buffaloe Creek, neither Log-house or any accommodation, and is se- venty-four miles. You cannot easily miss the way, provided you keep the Indian track : you must purchase a blanket at Canadarqua, and carry your provisions with you for the seventy- four miles, which takes you full two days. Take care and you need only sleep out one night ; mind and have a flint and steel, and some punk. other l.y ' nnwandoe Village to Queenstown Landing. The Road b "" c Creek is most used, both because it is better, and beca. » ' jommands a view of Lake Erie; and the Road from this to the Falls is along the banks of Niagara River, a very interesting ride. The River is in no place less than a mile over, and the picture is enlivened by a variety of landscapes. Niagara River is the only outlet of Lake Superior, and all those immense Lakes that afford, from the Falls, an uninterrupted navigation of near 2,000 miles to the westward. As you approach Chippaway, a military station two miles above the Falls, the rapidity of the River increases, bounding to a great height, where it meets with resistance from the inequality of the surface ; and this vast body of water at last rushes over a precipice of 170 feet. The Falls can be viewed from several different places; but they are seen to most advantage below. You can, with safety, approach the very edge of the Fall, and may even go some distance between the sheet of falling water and the precipice ; but this experiment re- quires caution : the footing is unequal and slippery, and blasts of condensed air rush out with such violence as to deprive you, for some moments, of the power of breathing. W. 2 P 292 ROUT E. You will find a fire at night very useful, if tlie weather should be quite warm. < The Holland Company's Store-house, two hundred and forty-nine miles. Creek on the Big Plains,* two hundred and seventy-four miles and a half. Here you will stop and refresh yourself. The water is good and the situation beautiful. You may unsaddle your horses and turn them loose ; they will not leave you. May rest here two hours very safely. Tannawantee Creek, f two hundred and eighty- six miles and a half: good water and plenty of crayfish, if you look after them. Here you must build your house for the night, and you will want an axe, which you must buy at Canadarqua, and make a large good fire. Need not mind wood, as it is plenty. You will have occasion for a good fire. Breakfast before you set out. C. ■"'■'• Twelve-Mile Creek, three hundred and six- teen miles and a half. Here you will dine. * Station, on the Big Plain, 274 miles. W. " We slept at Big Plain, twelve hours' ride from Canawagos, " distance 33 miles ; stopped to breakfast at Butter-mill Falls, " and at Tannawantee Creek, to dine: had frequently to cross this " Creek. At midnight, much annoyed by gnats and mosqui- " toes." — Due de Liancourt. f*^ Second Day. — Dined at Tannawantee; 15 wigwams; slept at " Smallfall's."— Our rfe £. ROUTE. 203 Good water and good feed for your horses. After you refresh yourself walk down the Creek half a mile. If the Creek is low, the water loses itself and comes out under the Rock. If the Creek is full, you will see a fine beautiful Fall. If you search under the Falls, yoa will find stones resembling agate. C. . ■ j . » . .^■■ Mtlei. ': .u-j-'i4tj(,# '■■\iii JIT .'«.'* BuffaloeCnjek,»5^^8i Tavern yerydirty C. IZOX A bad Tavern. L. Here you may introduce yourself to the Sur- veyor, who has a house from which he sends out his Deputies, who are surveying the Dutch Company's Lands. See the Indian Village about five miles from hence. C. Ferry on the River Niagara, three hundred and four miles, a little below Fort Erie.t Enter Upper Canada. L. .,. Miles. ^,. C 320 A very good Tavern. L. •^'"PP^^'y-JsSOiAverygoodlnn. C. * Buifaloe Creek, 317 miles, W, " Third Day.— Fall in with Buffaloe Creek, 12 or 15 miles "before yoa reach Village; Seneca Indians; forty wigwams; "Creek; bad ford, muddy; four miles from Lake Erie. Before <* you reach Settlement of Lake (Fort) Erie, pass Creek 40 feet " in width, but so deep in mud, obliged to pass in cauoe and "Jlounder your horses through the Creek. Three miles from " this Settlement cross Niagara River." — Due de L. t Fort Erie ; 50th Regiment, Major Pratt, Lieut. Faulkner. Chippawa, opposite Fort Schlusser; unhealthy; pretty good Ta> 294 ROUTE. i ...Here rest, and make excursions to the Falls. L. K,H^ Jfu^^l A*{.f:< I' '» it iuvi: <:x*.f. ;. . At Bufialoe Creek you can hire a boat, and go down Niagara River to Chippaway, which is beautiful, and send your horses over the Ferry ; or, cross yourself, you will find a charm- ing ride on the banks of the River. At Chip- paway, a garrison of a Company of the Queen's Rangers, commanded by Lieutenant Co wel. If you see him, please make my best respects to his Lady. C. Falls of Niagara,* three hundred and fifty- vern; River three miles wide; at the Falls one mile in width ; one mile and a half to the Falls; three miles to follow the River; Falls 160 feet. Fort Chippawa, Captain and Mrs. Hamilton ; Mrs. H. jolie, douce, aimable; tix enfant. On Lake Erie, the Lotowha Sloop of War, of 16 fj^uns, forty tons; cost .£6000 sterling; also the Chippawa Sloop of War, Captain Haro. Niagara River above and below the Falls, and the Lakes ; partially frozen ; ice carried down the Falls s^elivent en matte touvent jutqu' i la moitii de ta hauteur! Flour and Saw Mills near the Falls ; the latter curiously con- structed; take one-twelilth for grinding, and one. half for sawing; Sulphur Spring in the Canal of the Saw Mill ; Iron Ore near this. The River first passes atQueenstown, nine miles from the Falls. The Land from Chippawa to Newark, good, but not of the first quality ; first settled about 1785, but principally in 1791 and 1792; value two dollars and fifty cents per acre; cleared, to that in wood, as 40 to 200. The River contains Sturgeon, Pickerel, White Fish, Rock Fish, Herrings, Carp, Salmon, Trout, Perch ; 500 and upwards taken in three hauls of a net, 100 feet by 4. — Due de L, * At the Falls 135 poles or 742^ yards wide, the end twenty tt O I) T E. 205 two miles and a half. Do not miss observing them from the Table Rock, and be sure to go under them, and do not forget to carry a pint of brandy with you, and some dry clothes. Leave your horses at the Farm, a little below the Falls. C. ■<> '\"M *. : ^ .■;;-:'Sh \'>',r. .-^ ^^;! '^i'-'Y At the Falls, enquire for the Table Rock, from which you have the best view of the Falls ; and for the Indian Ladder, by which you may descend to the bed of the River below the Falls, and approach them. If it should be a cloudy day, when the Sun, at one time, shines clear and bright, and, at another, is deeply obscured, you will then see the Falls in their true cha- railes off ; tremulous motion in the earth ; wore away seven miles of the Rock, the Fail being' (supposed) formerly down the north- em side of the Slope, now known by the name of the Landing ; present pitch of the Fall, 150 feet; 65 feet more of Fall to the Landing, and 58 feet for half a mile of Rapids above the Fall; so that Lake Erie is about 300 feet above Lake Ontario. — Andrew Ellicot to Dr. Rush, dated Niagara, December 10, 1789. From the Falls to Q,ueenstown, the nearest place to which Shipping approach the Falls, the River is confined within a chasm in the Rocks, 150 feet deep, and to all appearance cut out by the force of the water. Queenstown is a neat village, and has all the appearance of a sea-port : it is not uncommon to see at that place several brigs of 100 tons burthen, and many smaller vessels. The Fall was found to be 320 feet from Steadman's Landing, above the Falls (of Niagara) to Queenstown Landing below : the dis- tance to be cut (for the proposed Canal) did not exceed four miles, nearly three of which is on a level with the navigable part of the River above the Falls. W. ?Yi I ' ■ I' 296 ROUTE. ! racter. 1 will not attempt to describe them, but be satisfied in pointing out to you the best places, and best mode for taking this most awful scene. Do not descend at your first visit, as you will find your time fully occupied on the Table Rock, and different parts of the banks of the River, and you ought to employ five hours in going to the bed of the River below the Falls. It requires more time than you would expect, and when you are below you will not be inclined to return without a full investigation. The rain has made many gullies in the banks of the River, (which you will pass in going to the In- dian Ladder) and firom the advanced points of some of them, you may catch a view of the Falls through the Trees in a very interesting manner; but I expect there is not a place from whence they can be seen that you will leave unvisited. Attend particularly to the current of the River as you go from Ghippeway to the Falls ^ also, to the Spray of the Falls. See them by moon- light. When you are on the Table a lock, also, when you are under the Falls, remember to shut your eyes, and stop your ears for a few mo- ments ; and on opening them suddenly, if the effect is not beyond your conception, your con- ception is beyond mine. I did not go to the United States side of the Falls, and understand it is not worth while. L. ROUT E. 297 Qneeustown * three hundred and fifty-nine miles and a half. Between the Great Falls and Queenstown is a Whirlpool, worthy of notice. On the top of the Hill above Queenstown, take a view of Lake Ontario, &c. ; also walk to the banks of the River whenever you can, at and between this Hill and the Falls. L. '(^>/ ''^ One mile before you reach Queenstown, ob- serve well the view from the Hill, of the River, and Lake Ontario. C. x .-^ ..-!.».': v>y vm>\ Newark, t three hundred and thirty-seven • . .. .■■ ■ , , . '.•,.■ ,,'» . ,. ■ ,,. jr ..■•. •„. .:....•! * Queenstown is the key to the trade of the Western Lakes, and numbers of teams are daily employed between it and Chip* paway: the distance by the carrying-place now in use, on the British side, is eleven miles; the carrying-place formerly in use, on the United States side, was only six miles ; but the mountain forming the Falls is more abrupt. W. — [See the preceding Note respecting the Canal proposed, to obviate the necessity of this portage.] J. M. Queenstown, first settled in 1792; tolerable good Tavern, Mr. Hamilton's une tris-jolie nutison dant le style Anglais.— Due de L. ■\ Newark, 100 houses ; Newspaper, the only one in Upper Canada ; Colonel Smith, of 50th Regiment, possesses d,000 acres ; cultivated by the troops; 9d. sterling per day ; one dollar per day is the usual wages for labour. Mtyor Seward, of the Ar- tillery, and Captain Pilkinson, of the Engineers; Navy Hall; General S>mcoe, Captain Parr, and Major Dobson, of the 60th Regiment. Heat, close and oppressive; most so in the night; Thermometer 92° ; to Kingston, 150 miles ; passage from sixteen hours to five days; took passage on board the Onondago Sloop of War, of twelve 6-pounder8, eighty tons, Captain Earle. Lake Ontario, liable to sudden and dangerous storms ; not navigated ' i*. 290 ROUTE. miles. At the mouth of the River Niagara, on Lake Ontario, opposite to old Fort Niagara, where there is a garrison of the United States. X. -j'The Commanding Officer resides at Newark, and great improvements are going on. From this place, or Queenstown, you will find a ves- sel for Kingston.* C. 7 '-' " ' ' ..i*-.' ;,i » from November to April. Besides the Onondago, there is on Lake Ontario, the Mohawk, of 12 guns, a Sloop of 40 tons and 6 guns ; the Missassagu, and two others, under the command of Commodore Bouchette ; Captain's pay, two dollars per day; First Lieutenant's, one dollar and twenty cents ; Second Lieu- tenant's, seventy cents ; Seaman, eight dollars per month. — ■Merchant Vessels, — Captain, twenty-five dollars; and Seamen, nine and ten dollars per month. On the borders of the Lake, wild rice and hemp. Fort Oswego, Captain Mc. Donnel ; thirty boats pass per month, seven months out of twelve. Twelve miles up the River is the first American Settlement; thirty miles W. of Fort Oswego, is Grand Sodus Bay, settled by Capt. Williamson. * Kingfston, 130 houses ; not so well built as Newark ; three Merchant Vessels; eleven voyages per annum. In two last years exported to Quebec, 1,000 barrels of pork, at eighteen dollars per barrel of SOSlbs. Land produces twenty or thirty bushels of Wheat per acre; Wheat, one dollar per bushel; Wood, oue dollar per cord ; Land from fifty cents to one dollar per acre ; Schooling, one dollar per month. — Sugar Maple very abundant ; no Sugar made in Upper C'^nada, but by the Indians, who make from 2 to 3,U00lb8. per anuL- 1, and sells for twenty cents per lb. Beaucoup de pierret tailonneutet, contenantet des imprestiont d'animaux de mer. — Newark boards, 100 feet of one inch, sixty cents ; one inch and half, ninety cents ; two inches, one dollar and ten cents.— Kingston Boards, 100 feet of one inch, one dollar, and the rest in proportion. — Due de Lianeourt, ROUT R. 280 If you return to Utica on horseback, and do not go through the Tantewantee Swamp, leave your horses at Chippeway, and take the Stage to Newark, you will thereby give your horses rest, and they will fare better than at Newark ; but if you go to Oswego, or into Lower Canada, it must be by water, in which case you can sell your horses at Newark or Niagara for what they cost you, at least. Horses, that will cost at Utica forty or eighty dollars, being hardy and active, will perform the journey wonderfully well. L. - i'fK{,!0 :-.. .■',/f> ■ ; r?*.>;;nrC'' ' • . ■ - ■Ui,ilu „ ■'■■luiu'^) . .,■.:.,.„.„,„,,.. y • -- - < - 1 - '..:■- : Hit, •.•■H>ii "' ' '. >• I'ue ,1 K f.-^, ,• i;.<^ fi/T > ^1 ■ / _•» ,■ ' f .» ■ I . ■ I ' '*, i -• ..•• . '. 2 Q ■A MH) Ron T 1,. '' ALBANY, ON HUDSON RIVER, TO HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA. »>JJ|Ji«v' ■ -i APost-iioad. Camareska's, 999^ Across the Portage to Tarn- j ^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ eskwata Lake, - - S Modawaska Settlement oQ||o« French Arcadians, - ) ^ ,„^ Great Falls, British Post, - 1208f Birch Canoe Presque Isle Ditto, - - - 1268 ( «'"»' _, , . , , CI i /-v \ til* Courier. Fredenckstown, the seat of } ) Government, - - - -) _ ,,, _ «xi 1 «iir>((n tlie Packet St. John's, Bay of Fundy, - 1418 { ^.^^ ^^^,^.^^ Across the Bay to Digby, - 1454 in a Packet. Annapolis, 1472^ -_.. J , _-f,r Good Carnage Windsor, 1559>- ^^^^ Halifax, 16053 ROU T i:. 301 ALBANY TO MONTREAL. Albany, Milvi. ■il-f.'\, :. 1 J'-;-'! Mil«i. Flats, - - . 5 Dr. Smith's, - - 80 Waterford, - 12 Burlington, 150 Hnlfinoon, - 18 Sandbar, 104 Stillwater, - 22 John Martin's, - 178 Ensign's, 28 Savage's Point, - 184 Dumont s Ferry, 30 Windmill's Point, 190 Fort Edward, 48 He aux Noix, 202 Sandy Hill, - - 50 St. John's, - 216 Fort Anne, - 60 La Prairie, «,j,^ ? 234 Skeensborough, - 72 Montreal, t,.*f:' 243 ' .,'.!'''.«»M ' ^^^ '.■ ii ;?»• h\ i«-M •1') ■■'•'■ f . . • • "■'-■ t ■ f ,:.••• '■■'H i 1 . V-\lf^.y'*^ ' .?»'»* , >■/ r» <» •■' '.!•■ If » . • !{. h'ii ,.,,^ i 1 APPENDIX. .'» .f !.< T ,tri> I ..t. /> 'H I r -I I ,,.. i Mr. Hodgson, in the Appendix to his ** Letters from North America," published in 1824, p. 413, Tol. 2nd, gives a Translation of the first four verses of the 19th Psalm, done at the Cornwall School, State of Connecticut, under the super- intendence of the Rev. John Serjeant, into the Muh-he-con-nuk Language, being the Language of the Stockbridge Tribe of Indians. Dr. Douglasb, in his '* Historical Summary," published at Boston, (New England,) in 1749, vol. 1, p. 189, writes, " Besides these (Indian " Tribes,) there is in the S. W. corner of the " Province of Massachusetts Bay, about twenty- " five miles east from Hudson River, a small " Tribe of Indians called Housatonicks, upon " a River of that name ; they are lately inter- '' mixed with the English in the Townships of " Sheffield and Stockbridge." — I have no doubt A 1» !• K N I> I X. 303 that the Housatonicks are the Stockhridge Tribe mentioned by Mr. Hodgson, as the River from whence they take their name rises in Stock- bridge or its neighbourhood, and falls into Long Island Sound, at Stratford, in Connecticut. Why Mr. Serjeant called the dialect of these Indians the 3Iuh-fie-con-nuk, instead of the Hou- ^a/ontc^ Language, is not so easily explained. The Author of this Work has in his possession the Second Edition of an Indian Bible in the Natick Language, by John Eliot ; published at Cambridge, (Massachusetts,) by Samuel Green, in 1685, and dedicated to the Hon. R. Boyle, Esq. Govemour, and to the Company for the Propa- gation of the Gospel to the Indians in New England and Parts adjacent in America. The Dedication signed at Boston, October the 23d, 1685, by WILLIAM STOUGHTON, JOSEPH DUDLEY, PETER BULKLEY, THOMAS HINCKLEY. 304 APPENDIX. ?V. V • u '-.n^ PSALM XIX. . •:*/.<('■ Vernon of the Indian Bible in the Natick Lanyuage, printed at Cambridge, (N. E.) 1685. Verse I. Kesukquash wunn&litiihkun- eau wusso!isum(')oi)k God, kah mamachekesuk kuli kontuniuli teaumoo wunnutchegane aim- kausuonk. The Reverend John Serjeant'* Vertion in the Muh-he-con- nuh Language. Verse I. Neen woh-we-koi-wau-con- nun wih-toiD-mon-nau-woh neb week-cliaii-nauq-tho-wau- con Pob-tom-now-waiis ; don neh pau-muh -lioTn-mau-we- noi-eke wpon-nooth - ne - kaun wnih-tau-nuh-kau-wau-con. . . Verse II. Woh-kom-inaun au|)-to-naiin, don tpooh-quon wau-wiht-no- waunnooh -torn -mail -wau-con, ' ■ Vbuse IK. -u'Si' >■' Stoh nit-hoh aup-to-nau- wau-con een-huh un-neekh- tho - wau - conneh au-ton-nib stob ptow-wau-mooq. THE LORD'S PRAYER, IN Malthen; Part of Verse IX. Nooshun kesukqut, qiittia- naUmunach koowesuonk. Verse X. Peyaumooutoh kiikketassoo- tamAonk, kuttenantain6onk iic n nach ohkoit ncane kemikqiit. Verse XI. NiirameetHUongiish isekds- iikokish assuinxinnran yeiiypu kcMikok. . Verse II. II6sekueu kesukodtasb ke- ketoolikon: kah b6hsek6eii nii- konasli nateteanog wabteauonk. vivii'.. M Verse HI.'" W'anne unn6ntuowdoukauun- noo asa mat penoowontoo wa- onkanunnoo adt m(> nootamd- muk iikkuttoowonganoo. THE NATICK LANGUAGE. Chop. VI. Verse XII. Kali ahqiioantainaiinnean niim- niatcbeseongash, neaiic match - enehukqueagig nutaliquontum- ounnoiiog. Verse XIII. Ahqiie sagkompasftinaiin- iiean en qiiti'lihtiauuganit, we be pohquolnvussinnean wutch matcbitut, Netvutcbe kiitabta- uiin kctassflotanioonk, kah nie- niihkosiionk, kah s/Tl)siiin(k)iik inirluMiir. Aiiii'ii. A !• V K N 1) I X. iUh'i " By Act of the Massachusetts Bay As- •' sembly, Anno 1746, the Indian Reserves being " distinguished into eight Parcels, Guardvar? or " Managers for these silly Indians wer^ ap- " pointed," — Speaking of thj Seventh Parcel, Dr. Douglass adds, " The Indian Plantation of " Natick, veith a Minister and Salary from an " English Society for propagating the Gospel " among the Indians in New England ; he offi- " ciates in English, and his congregation are " mostly English ; it lies about eighteen miles " W. of Boston, not exceeding twenty families " of Indians. •' Mr. Eliot, formerly a Minister of Roxbury, " adjoining to Boston, (N. E.) with immense " labour translated and printed our Bible into '* Indian ; it was done with a good pious de- " sign in the Natick Language ; of the Na .icks " at present there are not twenty familL^s sub- " sisting, and scarce any of these can read." — Douglass s Summary f 1749. ■*> Of the Indians which composed the eight Tribes existing in Massachusetts in 1746, ex- clusive of the Housatonicks, whose Reserves of Land were under the management of appointed Guardians, not one is now living. Dr. Douglass himself foretells their speedy extinction, " these silly Indians" being persuaded (of course by their Guardians,) to enlist as Soldiers, were 300 APPENDIX. isent to Cuba, Gartbagena, Cape Breton, and Nova Scotia. " Scarce any of them survived." The Natick Language has therefore to all intents and purposes become a dead Language. That a person should be found to translate the whole of the Old and New Testaments, with all the Singing Psalms, into a Language which was never a written Language, with those who spoke it ; — that he should print two Editions of this Indian Bible, which probably no other individual except himself could read and under- stand, is one proof among many of ill-directed zeal. This Bible was the fruit of a Bible Society. Other Bibles equally incomprehensible have been since published through the same desire of propagating' the Scriptures ; and though the la- bour of such Translations is great, and the ex- penditure enormous, yet it is not attended with such difficulty as that of finding individuals who could read and understand the Book when printed. In fact these Translators make a Lan- guage of their own, and their Works are " still- born' from the press. . ^ 'Vr l( 1)< »• -V** AMOUNT OF EXPENSES, vKifK, Tp • '■•■^■■'t ■ f'iHiirti,"^^'* -it:* ;<5f ti •* I' THRBB MONTHS AN0 MNI&TBEN DAYS, DURING A TOUR *' THROUGH THE GENESEE AND THE CfANADAS, In the Summer of 1800. : «> Dollon. Cent*! 2 ''\ 3 12i For a birth in the Packet from New York to Albany, 160 miles. Fare in the Stage from Albany to Canajo haree, 55 miles, - - , • Ferry across the Niagara River, - 1 Birth in the Packet from Queenstown across } . -1 Lake Ontario to Kingston, 157 miles^ > Sailors, - - - * i * 60 Stage from La Chine to Montreal, 9 miles, 1 Half Fare of Calash from Quebec to the Falls 3 ^ of Montmorenci, 7 miles, - ^ ,},i '^, Travelling Post in Calashes from La Valtrie > q qq to Montreal, - - - > Ferry and Stage from Montreal to St. John's, i 26 miles, - - - - > Passage across Lake Champlain, 150 miles. Waggon from Skeensborough to Albany,^ 72 miles, - - - - > Passage from Albany to New York, 1605 miles, - - - - > Cartage of Luggage, 1 6i 2 50 9 75 30 88i i 41 2 R 308 EXPENSES. l)ay». 4 6 6 19 2 ( TAVERN EXPEl^SES, &c. Dollari. Centa. On board Sloop from New York to Albany, Bill, City Tavern, Lewis's, Albany, On the Road from Albany to Geneva, - Bills at Powell's Hotel, Geneva, On the Road to and from Bath, 4^ Ditto from Geneva to Chippawa, 8 Bill at Chippawa, - Ditto at Queenstown, - Ditto at West Niagara, Ditto on board Sloop Lake Ontario, fV. '.1 2 \ 2 13 t. On the Voyage down the St. Lawrence ^ to Montreal, - ' ^^*' ^^» _^ ■ • ■ M ii ■ 3 Ditto from Montreal to Quebec, ,.- , 3 Bill at Harrald's Coffee-house, Quebec, 6 From Quebec to Montreal, - 10 Bill at Dillon's Hotel, Montreal, 6 Montreal to Skeensborough, - 2 Skeensborough to Albany, - . , - „ 2 Bill at Lewis's Tavern, Albany, • _'• 6i On board Sloop, Albany tu New York, Sundries, - , - . . - - 90^ Tavern Exjy.nses, &c. 3 mo. IQdays, Fares, Packets, &c. t«rtv? yi^d ntii-vi J. M.'s /wrfwirfMa/ Expenses, 7 374 11 18| 8 75 39 68^ 2 25 3 m 4 62^ 1 37i 3 4 66i 1 25 8 85 3 15 7 90| 4 15 2 56i 1 3U 3 75 6 25 9 93J 135 41 30 88i 166 29i ,-,^!( ) ■*» f T.} 7 Days' Board and Lodging at Tontine, New York, - Passage to Albany, - - . 4 Days on board the Sloop, 6 Ditto at Albany, _ _ . Stage from Albany to Utica, 96 miles, 2 Days on the Road to ditto, 4 Ditto from Utica to Geneva, - 19 Ditto at Powell's Hotel, Geneva, 2 Ditto to and from Capt. W. at Bath, - 9^ On the Road from Geneva to Queenstown, 2i Passage and Expenses from Queenstown to Kingston, 3 Days on Voyage down to Montreal, 22 Ditto Bill at Dillon's Hotel, Ditto, Ferry and Stage from Montreal to St. John's, 1 Passage across Lake Champlain, 6 Days' Expenses on board the Sloop, - 2 Ditto on Road from Skeensborough to Albany, - - _ _ 2 Ditto at Albany, Passage from Albany to New York, 6i Expenses on board the Sloop, 3i Ditto at New York, - iOl Dollars. Centi. 7 25 vni 2 4 50 7 12i 5 624 1 56i 4 31i 26 68| 2 18* 8 181 5 17 1 18 22i . 1 Ci 2 50 2 56i 1 3U 3 18| 2 3 62^ 3 113 8i Slew Pair of Boots, 8 50 'our months' wages at 12 dollars, . 48 m) 581 310 RECAPITULATION OF EXPENSES. EXPENSES CONTINUED. Cost of two Horses, - Ditto of two Saddles, - Sold two Horses, Ditto two Saddles, Velise and Crupper, Slioeing, - - Saddle stuffing, - , Drugs and Blankets, Hay and Oats, Dullan. Genu. Dollart. Centi. 92 50; 50 '^142 50 100 30 130 12 50 8 25 5 93| • vJL, ' .J, ■; 3 43J 60 68i Expense of 2 horses from Utica to Queenstown, 91 8H RECAPITULATION OF EXPENSES. ■^- '" ' Dollars. Centi. '£• *• ^• My Individual Expenses, 166 29i - or - 37 8 3 My Servant's ditto, - 169 58i - or - 33 3 Two Horses' ditto, - 91 8U - or - 20 13 3 "T'' 427 68J - or - i)6 4 6 ■-?* ■I-'' oi' i^i-; ', 'A I -f ' 1 i .1 : I \' c • tn* • • SPACK OF ».'<,>o COUNTRY TRAVERSED IN rnE TOUR THnovon THE GENESEE AND THE CANADAS. II ■ ' • . • Country Direct June, iHUO. j,i,p,_ jn,^.^_ 21—26, Voyage from New York to Albany, 160 160 Excursions on the Banks of the> ,„ >• 12 Hudson, - - - 5 26 July 1, E''''.ursions in the neighbourhood ofi .^ ' '■ Albany, - i^'.-v ■ . S 2 — 5, Albany to the Head of the Mohawk > , ,q^ Navigation, - - 5 ^>-200 5 — 7> Fort Stanwix, or Rome, to Geneva, 88 ^ 8 — 15, Excursions in the vicinity of Geneva, 80 16—18, Geneva to Capt. Williamson's, Bath, 52 52 18 — ^25, Excursions ai'ound Bath, - - 60 26—27, Return to Geneva by different Route, 60 60 28Aug.7, VisittoaremarkableSulph. Spring, } E. Shore of Seneca Lake, &c. S 8, GenevatoMr.Morris's, Canadarqna, 16 16 9 — 17, Excursions in vicinity of Canadarqua, 1 14 18 — 19, Canadarqua to the Genesee^ Falls, and Landing, - 3 19— 21, Genesee Falls to Buffaloei 00^'^"^ ^^^ Creek, Lake Erie, - 5 21—22, Buffaloe Crock to Chippawii, 18 UYM) 052 312 roUNTHY TUAVER8KIK • • i'f ■ T^':^:i niruct Milei. Milri, Aug. Brought forward, - - 1030 652 21^24, Excursions to and around the Falls"! r of Niagara J extended to both > 44 sides of the River, - - 3 26, Chippawa to Queenstown, - 10 10 26, Excursion to the Whirlpool, &c. 16 27 — 29, Queenstown to West Niagara, 7 ) West Niagara, across Lake On- M57 tario, to Kingston, - - 150^ 157 Excursion on shore at West Niagara, 3 29 S'ep.l, Kingston down the St. Lawrence? to Montreal, - - - > 210 2 — 5, Excursionson the Islandof Montreal, 20 6 — 9, Voyage from Montreal to Quebec, 178 178 Excursions on the Banks of the St. ^ Lawrence, - - _ 3 9—11, Visit to the Falls of Montniorenci, 3 • and back, - - . S 14 Other excursions around Quebec, 16 12— 18, Return to Montreal, - - 178 178 Excursions from the Ranks of thei . St. Lawrence, - - > 19—23, Further excursions around Montreal, 20 24oc<.l, Montreal to Albany, - - 245 245 3 — 10, Albany by water to New York, 160 160 Excursions on the Banks of thei Hudson, - - - S Miles Traversed, 2343 1804 N. B. — The imitial excursions on tliis Houte are 5 < ■I I INDEX. MISCELLANEOUS. Agfate, 128. Agonizing^ scene, 148, 140. " Agreeable horron," 232. Af^riculture, vide Farm. Albaniana described, 26,27. Ale, excellent, 213. •! - i Albany Beef, see Sturg^eon. Algiers, why Lunenburg^ is so called, 15. Algerines, 272. Anecdote of Betsy, the Moun- tain Nymph, 6. Anecdote of a Scotch Presby- terian Minister, 13. Anecdote of an Irish Gentle - man, 14. Anecdote of an Indian, 148. of fellow passengers, 172,173. , Ant-hills, 149. Antidote for bite of rattle snake, 77, 160. Appendix, 302, 306. Apple Trees, 31. ' Arks, 57, .'»8. Archipelago, asingfularone, 177. Arsenal at Quebec, 208. Backwoods man, a skilful one, 71, 72. Bald Eagle, 67. '' ' Barley, 78, 79, 92. '. Bass, a Fish, 48, 202. Bass, Black, 142, 177. ' ' BasM, White, 142. Bass Tree, see Lime Tree, 41, 62, 77, 100, 114. Bass Tree, favors the richest soil, 100. I' - . .1 Bat and Dog, 142. Bateau, descend St. Lawrence inone, 176,184, 191, 203. Bateau, ascend St. Lawrence, 211, 226. Bateaux, Fleeto of, 176, 178, 181, 182. Bath, a natural one, 166. Bears, 77, 131, 132, '19, 160. Beartraps, 77. Beard, an Indian's! 117. .; Beauty, Female, 232, 233, 236. r II. INnKX. Beaver, 255. Beech, 37, 40, 41, 52, 67, 77, 114, 118, 124, 126, 128. Beef, price of, 25, 26. Birch, White, 242. Blackbirds, 31, 57, 254. Black Snake, 41 BInck Walnut, 114 Bluebirds, 103. Boat, of improved construc- tion, 90. Bob-Lincolns, 24. Bounty uf Land granted, 38. Bread, excellent, 240. Breakfast in the Unit^^d States, 29. Breakfast in Lower Canada, 198. Brickmsking', 93. Brick House in the Genesee, 89. Bridal ornaments, 198, ,• 1 Bridge, Cayuga, 47, 48. dangerous, 106. rapidly constructed, 109 new, building, 118. over the Moliawk, 33, 261. British tyranny and American liberty, 60. Broad-leaf Plantain, antidote for bite of the rattlesnake, 150. Brown-Tnrasher, 24, 103. Buger's Leonora, 249. Buildings,American style of, 63. Bull- Frog, 33. Burgoyne's encampments, 259, 260. Butter, price of, 26. Butternut Tree, 41,52, 93, 114. a remarkable one, 03. Cachenonaga Indians, 184. Calash, Canadian, 184, 226227. Campbell's Travels, 43, 45. Canada discovered, 216. Canadarqua described, 96, 97. Canal at Niagara, contem- plated, 164, 165. Canadians, 231, 232. Canaseraga Indians, 38. Canoes, 148, 150, 241, 242. Cartier, Jacques, di^oveK Ca- nada in 1634, 216. "•♦• Cascades, 22, 23, 26, 128. Cat, 220, 222. and Woodpecker, 222. Catfish, 48, 100, 108, 155, 165. Cattle fed on Forest Trees! 52, 53, 121. Carro'ji, 23. ' Cataract of Niagara, feelings ou approaching it, 133, 134. Cataract f Niagara, on first beholding it, 136, 136, 137. Cataract of Niagara, on first discovery, 138. Cataract of Niagara, on leaving it, 13». Cayuga Indians, 129. Cedars, 177. Charlevoix's Travels, 139. Cheese, 92. ; Cherries, 23, 28. Chesnut Tree, 77, 114. Church, English Episcopal, 20, 23. I N D K X. iii. fyhurch Roman, 187, 23d. Cider, 31. Clay's Route from Albany to Miagfara, 283, 298. Glover, White, 24, 41. Red, 24. 72, 92. luxuriantgrowth of, 52. Climate, Qeoesee, 52, 70, 79, 84, 90, 91, 92, 93, lOQ. Climate, at Montreal, 240. Compass, Mariner's, bad guide on land, 119. Congress grants Lands to UiQir Army, 38, 39. • ; Convent of Hotel D^«a, 186, 187 Country, New York to Albany, 3, 18. . ; Vicinity of Albany, 21, 28. from Albany to Geneva, 29, 50. from Qeneva to Bath, 56, 57,50. ... f I,, .,.,'■? s from Bath to Geneva, 76. from Geneva to Sulphur Spring,- 82, 83, 84. from Geneva to Canadar- qua, 95, 96. from Canadarqua to Genesee River, 101,102. Banks of Genesee River, 102 115. , , from Genesee River to Lake Erie, 115, 129. Banksof Niagara River, 130, 131, 132, 133, 134, 170. Banks of St. Lawrence, 176, 230. ' Montreal to St. Joliirs, 241, 243, Country, Banks of Lake Cham- plain, 243, 256. from Skenesbro' to Albany, 256,264. Cows, Canadian, 231. Crayfish, 110. Cro\ifra, 34. Curious Stones, 200. Curlews, 220. Custom-house, 246. Dances, 16, 237, Danger imminent. 111, 250,253. Death of General Wolfe, 216. Deep Spring, 40. Delaware Indians, 129. Deer, 77, 86, 100. Deer, killed with scythes, 74. De Liancourt's travels, 17. Dinner, singularly filthy, 73, 74 Disaffected Counties of Penn- sylvania, 60. Dog buried alive under the root of a tree, 94. Dogs in Water-Carts, 213. Dogwood, 77, 83, 100, 114. Douglas, quotation from, 171. Duck, shot by an old Seneca Warrior, 117. Duck, shot by Mr. Jones, 244, 245. Ducks, wild, 31, 151, 224, 244, 245, 254. Dutch extortion, 257. fireside and funerals, 27. frows, 27, 232. market girl, 24. waggons, 28, 29, 87,257. wit, 6. Dwarf, 34. iS- fv. I iN O K X. Eagle, 177. Eels, 48, 49, 100, 166, 201. Eggs, price of, 26. Ellicott's Letter to Dr. Rush, 162, 163. Elms, 41, 77, 262. Embarkation on the Hudson River, 3, 265. Emigration, 60, 120, 127, 133. Engages, traits of character, 176, 182, 183, 193. Engages, their conduct on shooting a Rapid, 182, 183. Expences trarelling, 307. Family large, not burtheusome, 30. Farm, Williamson's, 64, 65. Piatt's, 71, 72. East of Seneca Lake, 86. Morris's, 90. Stafcr's, 104. Davis's, 120. Ransom's, 126, 127. Canadian, 231. Filth, its ne phis ultra, 73. Fields of Battle, 7, 8, 10, 170, 203, 204, Fir, Scotch, 22. Fir, see Pine. Balsam, 242. Larch, 242. Hemlock, 242. Spruce, 242. Double Spruce, 242. Falls, see Cohoes, Genesee, Glens, Mohawk, Montmo- ren(i, Niagara. Fish, in Cayuga Lake, 48. Fish, in Cunadarqiia Lake, 99, 100. in Niagara River, 156, 166. in Mohavk River, 262. a strange one, 66. Fishing- hawk, 151. Fishing- party, 67. Flattery, grateful in a wilder- ness, 124, 125. Flax-dressers, 232. Fleet on Lake Erie, 120, 130. Flies, the plague of, verified, 131. Flour-wheat, best quality, 58. Fogs, 193,225. Forest of Ages, 105. Forts, ancient remains of, 182. Fowl plucked alive! 221. Foxes, Red and Grey, 9. Freemasons' Lodge, 205. French Seminary, 186. Frost, a keen one, August 20th, and same day, mosquitoes still keener, 123. Gardens, 120, 129. Gardenstone's Lord, Travels, 242. Garrisons, 142, 171. German It'easantry, 232. Garter- Snake, 41. Genesee Country, enter the, 60. when and in what man- ner settled, 61 , 71, 72. Genesee Falls, their distance from Niagara, 111, 112. Genesee Fever, 92, 93, 264. Road, the Great, 33. Wheat, 68. ■I' I N n K X. V. (i\\ Bias' Leonora, 73. Grain, luxuriant Crops, 32, 34. Grape Vines, 262, 260. Grapes Wild, 24, 269, great va- riety of, 269. Grasshoppers, 133. Grass ten feet high ! 104. Grouse, 8, 96. Grub, the Pine, 22. in Sulphur Spring, 83. Gulls, 151. Gypsum, 157. Half an Hour's Chat, 211, 212. Hares, 9, 78. Harrowgate Water, 83. Harvest, 72, 74. Hats, Beaver, Manufacture of, 89, Haunted Room, 205, 206, 207. Hawk, 103. Hay, heavy Crops, 41. late Crops, 86, 100. second Crops, 224, 232. its scarcity, 125. Ilayiield, volunteer two days' work, 69, 70. Haz^l-nuts, 103. Health, state of in Genesee, 9^. Hemlock Pine, (see Fir,) 49, 59,68,77,82, 114,177. Hennepin's Travels, 139. Hessian Fly, 79. Hickory Tree, 41, 62, 57, 77, 100, 114. Hickory Tree, white, 2.55. Hogs, how fedf 22, 26, 42, 69. Holland Company, 32, 118,127, 128, 129. Holland Purchase, 103,118,119. Hoot-Owl, 37. H( ;'n, prodigiously largf, 76. Horses purchased on the Mo- hawk, 31, 33. Horses of a superior breed, 66. cured, 93. sold in Canada, 160. expences of, 310. Canadian, 226, 227. Horse-fly, dreadful, 95, 96,131. Hospitality, American, 30, 95. Canadian, 238,239. Dutch, 27. Hotel, excellent, 88. Huckle Berries, 8, 80. Humming Birds, 71. James's Powders, 93. Jay Bird, 103. Jay's Treaty of 1794, 172. Impenetrable Secret, 238. Indian Squaw, 37. Youth, 37. Settlements, 37, 38, 42, !24. Ditto deserted, 52, 96. Indians s ipplanted, 29. described, 51, 101. kill Venison, 56. burn the W .)ds, 59. set Traps, 77. sell Wortleberries, 80. encamped, 51, 96. metwith, 37, 38,51,96, 101,103,117,124,129. the Infant, 97. Colonel Brandt, 97,129. Hotbread, 117. Canawagos, his Mother, 117. ii^ vi. INDBX. Indiaus gaily dressed, 120. at Tannawaotee, 124. on Buffr loe Creek, 120. attack Waggon Train, 144,145. Resignation of one, 148. Inventive Faculties, 174. Conversion, 184. Inquisitive Doctor, 49. Iron Wood, 77, 100, 114. Keswick Lake, (6. B.) 23. King Bird, 103. Kingfisher, 84, 133. La Hontaine's Travels, 130. Lake Fleet, 129, 130, 143. Lakes of Fresh Water, the larg- est in the known world, 165, 166. Lake Luck, 195,223,243. Land, productive powers of, 32, 72, 97, 102, 103. Land, value of on the Mohawk, 29. at German Flatts, 32. at Whitestown, 34. Military Townships, 39. at Geneva, and in the Genesee, 74, 88, 97. Head of Canadarqua Lake, 74. Banks of Ditto, 97. Bloomfield Township, 103. New Hartford, 103. within the Holland Pur- chase, 103. Big Spring, 115. Caledonin, 116. Genesee Flatts, 101. Land, Route from Albany to Ni* agara, in 1790.— 283. Laurel, 8. Letters introductory, 21, 50, 160, 185, 190, 191, 207. Lightning, the fatal effect of, 70. Lime Tree, see Bass. Limestone Rocks, 54, 111, 157, 164, 169. Lakes, see Canadarqua, Cay- uga, Champlain, Crooked Erie, George, Huron, Kes- wick, (G. B.) Michigans, Mud, Oneida, Ontario, Onon- daga, Ostisco, Owasco, St. Clair, St. Francis, St. John, St. Lewis, St. Pierre, Scanea- teles, Seneca, Sameskwata, Superior, Thousand Islands, Windermere, (G. B.) Loaf Sugar, of the Maple, 121. Log House, a pattern of neat- ness, 75. Longevity, extraordinary, 117. 188. Looming, singular effect of, 184. Loons, 181. Magnolia, (see Tulip Tree.) Maiden Hair, 77. Maize, 22, 34. Mamoth Bull, an Indian Story, 174. Mandrake Fruit, 98, 142. Manhattan Company, 47. Maple, 83, 124, 126, 128. Maps and Papers, a present of, 79. im M i 1>)DEX. Vii. Mariner's Compass not to be de- pended upon in running divi- sion lines, 119. Market, Albany, 26. '■ *'*J' " Matrimony a fine thing!" 199. May Apple, 98, 142. . ' May Fly, 90. Mercantile Dishonesty, 68. Merry Mourners, 27. Mess of the Artillery, 208. Mess of the 4lst Regiment, 189, 235, 236. Meteorological Register, b'). Midnight Ramble, 181. Migration ofthe Pennsylvanians 60, 120,127. . " . ' Militia, inspection of, 21 . Military Townships, 38, 39. Milk Snake, 41. Mills, 9, 20,23, 26, 54, 82, 101, 102, 181,210,215,223. Moccasins, 236. Mohawk Indians, S 129. Morse's American Geography, 4,5,6, 7, 10,11,13,14,15, 18, 20, 28, 29, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35. Mollis, 133. Mosquitoes, 35, .56, 68, 83, 8(>, 95, 120, 131, 133.;— of a for- midable race, 95. Mushrooms, 221. Musk Rats, 255. Nags' Ears tipped with Silver ! 117. Night-clothes, novel, 74. Night, how passed in the wil- derness, 120, 121. North -west Company, 239. ' New Ditto, 142, 339. Nun, conversation with, 187. Nunnery, visit to, 186. Nuts of the White Hickory, 265. Oak, 41, 47, 49, 62, 67, 69, 77, 114. Oak Barrens, 31, 100. Oaks, select a poor and gravelly Soil, 31, 100, 103. Oak Plains, 123, 126, 127, 128. Oats, 78, 79, 92. , . i. .. Oneida Indians, 37. Onondaga Indians, 42, 51, 129. Ontario County described, 91, 92. Orchard, Indian, 52. at the Falls of Niagara, 146. Oswega Bass, or Susquehanna Salmon, 67. Owl, 80. Ox, large, 98. Oxen draught, used for temper- ing clay, and treading out wheat, 93. Papouses, 51. Parade of 6th Regiment, 207. Partridges, 8, 9, 49. Passengei-s, Fellow, in Sloop Sally, 3, 4, 19, 21. In Schooner Gen.Simcoe, 170, 175. In ilateaux, 176, 191. In Sloop Swiftsure, 243. In Sloop Magdalene, 265. Peltries, 175. Perch, 67. ' :j viii. I N D R X. Perch, Yellow, 209. Periloua Situations, 111,148,149, 209, 260, 263. Persicaria, 93. . ,, ..<. >i Petrifactions, 86, 98. Pheasants, 8,77,86,96,116,262. Picly firing the Woods, 59. Soil, fertility of, 32, 34, 40, 77, 91, 92. Soil in Ontario County,6cnesee, 77,91,92. Soldiers sell their patents of Grants of Land, 38, 39. Soldiers fearful of GItosU! 206, 207. Soldier finds a Nondescript Plant, 218. Solomon's Seal, an antidote for bite of the Uattlesuake,77,150 Spice Wood, 8. Squaws, 51. Squirrels, Black, 57,80,115,262 Grey, 81. Ground, 31, 57, 115,262 Red, 31,57, 81,202. American described 81 Squirrel Feasts, 81, 82. Stage to Utica, 28. State of N.York, 145,146 Strawberries, wild, 6, 24, 41. Storm, a remarkable one, 125. Storms, 70, 98, 125, 139, 140, 271. Strange Fish, 66. Striped Bass, 99. Stiiben Coimty, Genesee, de- scribed, 93. Stu.-geons, 6, 25, 155. Suckers, a fish, 67. Sutrar Maple, 33, 37, 41, 45, 52, 57,77,93,100,101,118,121, 122. Suj^ar Maple selects the richest Soil, 100. Sugar Orchards, 34. Sugar of the Maple, its quality and how manufactured, 121, 122. Sulphur Springs, remarkable, 82,83,110, 155. Sulphur found en masse, 83, 84, 85. Sunfish, 6, 99. Surveying Lands, error in, 119. Surveyors, severe life of the, 120 Susquehanna Salmon, (see Pickerel.) Tamarisk, 86, 123. Tassel Tree, 241. Taxation, 25. Teeth, find three large ones, 76. Temerity of Capt. Lawton, 150. Tennis Court, 236. " The Fly," 96. Thermometer at 94J'' in shade, 79. Thrush, 77. Thunder-gusts, kill or change the wind, 16, 217. curious eflect of, 50. Tide in St. Lawrence, 197. Timber of the Military Town- ships, 41. the Genesee, 77, 100. on the Banks of Genesee River, 114. Timothy Grass, 41, 72, 92, 100. none other cultivntcd in the Genesee, 41. I N I) K X. M. T«»wii n»(l Townslii|iH liuvu llic saini; siKuiflcalion, 117. Tree blown down and rises a2— I'HJ. View from Bender's, 157. by Moonlight, 157. from the Summit of the Table Land, 159. by Moonlight, of Les CJa- lots, a ilapid, 178. by Moonlight, of Le Saut du Coteau des Ci^dres, 181, 182. from Summit of the Mont- real, 189, 190. of the Falls of Noutmo- renci, 209, 210. from the Upper Town ' f duebec, 213. on Lake Champlain, 254. on the Hudson, 270. Vines, Grape, 24, 262. Strawberry, 24, 41. War of 1813, 170,171. Wasp's Nest, petrified, 98. WateroftlieGreatLakes,whole- snme and well tasted, 174. Water of the Hudson, brackish one hundred miles from New York, 273. Water, to be brought to Albany, 28. that is brought to Ge- neva, 89. Water-melon, 115. Water-carts drawn by Dogs, 213. Water-pepper, 93. Wax Plant, 208, 241. AVeather, very warm, 79. Weld's Travels, 14 1 , 153, 21 1 . Wheat, price of, 26, 41, 102. l>rofitalile trade in, 30, 102. \ll. 1 N J) K X. Wheut, linu cultivated, 40,73. on the German Flats, 32. at Whitestown, 84. ill the Military Townships, 40. the best kind, 68. value of in the Genesee, 63, 103. growth of in ditto, 68, 74, 77, 92, 102. infected with the Hessian Fly, 70. Sicily, 68. Whip.poor-Will, 37. ' Whirlwind, 126, 126. White Pine, the loftiest of Trees, 69,82. Whitewood Tree, celebrated, 6. Whortleberries, (see Huckle- berries,) 80, 131. Wigwams, 101. ' Wild Buck, chased by Wolves, 74. killed with scythes, 74. li Wild Kiii-k liojfgiitlily «>nlen, 73, 74. Wild CheKnuts, 274. Ducks, 84, 80, l(K». Fowls, 86. Pigeons, 106, 177. Plums, 149. \\ How, 86, 123. Windmills, 15. ' ' • Wine, price of, 26, Wolves, 74, 77, 160, Wood-chuck or Ground Hof^41 Wood-duck or Mandarin Duck, 236. Woodpecker, large black, 86, 103. large grey, 222. red head, 67, 77. Wood-pigeon, 200. Woods, present a singular ap- pearance in the Genesee, 93, 04. Yellow Bass, a fish, 6, Yellow Birds, 31, 109. PLACES. ■ i >M I Albany, City of, 17, 18, 102, 185, 263, 264, 277. Algiero, (see Lunenberg.) Alleghany Ridge, 121. River, 66. Allen Creek, 115, 116, 118, 122. the Western termination of Williamson's pur- chase, 118. Amazons River, 230. Antiscosti Island, 229. Atocos Bay, 195. Aurania, see Albany, 18. Aurelius Township, 46. Aurora Township, 46. Baltimore on the Hudson, 16, 271. Maryland, .55, 57, 62, 63, 236. Barnegat, 13. Hartles's Mills, 55. Bath, near Albany, 23, 24, 263. Bath, Stuben County, Genesee, 59,61,62,63,72,76, 121. Batiscan Village, 197. River, 197, 219. Battery at New York, 213. Beaconhill, Boston Mass, 213. Bear Mountain, 7. Beoancnurt, 196. Becancourt Rifer, or Grande Riviere Puante, 190. Belcour Island, vide Valeur Island. Bason Harbour, Vermont, 260. Berthier, 194, 196, 225. Bequet, 197. Bethlehem, 17. Big Spring, 115. Big Tree, 101. Black Creek, 106. Black River, 35. Bloody Bridge, 145. Bloomfield, 102. Bloomfield Township, 92, 102, 104. Blooming Vale, 42. Boucheville, 191. Bouquet River, 248. Bout de rile, 184. Bout de rile de Montreal, 192, 22S, 233. Bradloe-bay, 109. Breakneck-hill, II. Buifaloe Creek, 128, 129, 170. Buffaloe Village, 128, 130. Great, 129. Buttermar Creek, 42. Butter Mountain, 11, 13,275. Caclienonttga Village, 184. IMAGE EVALUAT!ON TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4^ A\«^ 1.0 I.I il.25 |^|2.8 us u 2.5 iiiiiZ 11 12.0 1.8 U ill 1.6 VI Ta %' /, °>y .. -> 7 -(^^ Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 d^ \ ^ ^ 4 o <1? O^ ''?) 4- I/. ^ Xiv. INDKX. Cadarqili, (see St. Lawrence Cayuga Lake, 47. River,) 183. ';-i''>.a • " » •" Chambly River, 244, 266. Caldwell's Manufactory, 26. Champ de Mars, 188. Caledonia, 116. Champlain Lake, 243—256. Canada, Upper, 180, 210, Village, 197, 220. 241. Charles River, 210. Lower, 180, 231, 232. Chesapeake-bay, 65, 58. Canadarqua, 61, 75, 80, 82, 83, Chicot River, 196. 86, 87, 04, 96, 07. Chimney- point, 263. .>^> •<>*. described , 96, 97, 98, 101 , Chippawa, 132, 133, 137, 139, 104, 107. 141, 142, 144, 161, 167, 160, Canadarqua Lake, 66, 70, 73, 162, 167. 82,91,96. ^ Chippawa Creek, 151. ' described, 99, 100. Chittenengo Creek, 38. Canajoharee, 29, 160. <^hurchof the Trois Sosurs, 216. Canal at Little Falls of Mohawk, Cochehatchie River, 177. 32. Coeyemans Island, 270, 271. Canal connecting^ Mohawk and Kill, 271. Wood Creek, 36. Village, 270, 271. Canaseraga Settlement, 38. Cohoes Falls, 210, 261, 262. Creek, 38, 68. Cold Spring, 254. Canawagos, (see New Hartford) Conhucton Creek, 57, 59, 62, 102. 64, 67, 72. Cape Diamond, 202, 204, 229. Crab Island, 247. • -. i ■■ of Good Hope, 241. Crooked Lake, 54, 65, 91, 119. Rouge, 213. Crown Point, 253. Rouge Bay, 202, 215. Cumberland Head, 246. Village, 202. Bay, 246. • Santi, 201, 216. Dansville, 68. Cascade at Rensselaer's Mills, Davis's StaUon, 120, 121, 122, 23. ■ ■■' ''■' ■■' ''"■■•••■ 123. at Wendell's Mills, 26. Delaware River, 16. • .'<■- in the Wilderness, 128. Detroit, 142. > ./ Castleton on the Hudson, 268. Devil's Hole, 164. Castleton River, Vermont, 256. Division line between the United Catherine- town, 90. States and Up. Canada, 130. Cayuga, 46, 47, 64, 104. between Upper and Lower Bridge, 47, 48, 51. Canada, 180. I N D K X. ' XV. Division lirie between Lower Ca- Fort Ticonderoga, 253, 254. nada and the United States, WestNiagara,170,171,173. 246, i^ ! West Point, 10,11. Drowned Lands, 254. Fortress of Quebec, 204,212. Dunderberg, or Thunder Noun- Four Winds, or Four Brothers tain, 8,11,276. >» n-.; Islands, 247. Eleven-mile Run, 128. ' Frederick Town, Genesee, 66. Erie, (see Fort and liake,) 129, French Town, Delaware, 241. 130, -Vi iSU ..n-.>Hi f. Friends' Settlement, 54, 80. Esopus Flats, 14. '«',;? Ganges, 230, Island, 14. ' ■'• Genesee Country, 50. f • Meadows, 273. Falls, 106,109,110,111, Esperanza, (seeLunenberg^.) 112, 113, 114, 153, 155, Exeter, (O.B.) 239. ' 204,210. ■ 'if Flats, 104, 105. Face Mountain, 13, 276. ' ' ''^' Fall Hill, 31. - Landing, 106,107,108,109 Fidler's Elbow, 256. Mills, 106, 112, 113, 114. Fish-kill, 259. River, 68, 102, 103, 104, Five-mile Creek, 72. ' ' 105, 106, 107, 108, 169. Flat Rock, 247. 170. Flint Creek, 75, 77, 82, 91. Geneva, 50, 63, 70, 76, 77, 83, Fort Anne, 30. 87, 88, 89, 90, 93, 96, 104. Chippawa, 132, 142. ' described, 87. Clinton, 7, 8, 275, 276. George Town, Maryland, 50. Constitution, 10. German Flats, 32, 34. Crown Point, 253. Glens Falls, 259. Edward, 259. Goat Island, 134, 135, 137, 147, Erie, 129, 130, 132, 162. 151, 161, 168. Independence, 253. Grand Sodus Road, 52. Levi, 178. Grande lie, (Niagara) 133, 144, Montgomery, 7, 8, 11,276. 167. Niagara, 159, 171, 172. Grande lie, (Lake Champlain,) Putnam, 10. 246, 247. 8chlusser,141,143,144,145, Grande He PorUge, 142, 160, 146, 163, 164. 183. Schuyler, (see Utica,) 232. Grande He Riviere, 97, 129. 8tanwix, (see Rome) 35, 36. Grand River, (seeUttawa River) Stoney-point, 11. Grant's Island, 242. XVl. I N D B Xk Great BuflaloeVillKgfl, 139. He aux Bateaux, ISO. ;,.; ,''.] Lakes, 165, 166. He au Castor, 194. ;'.,„ Green Bush, (Seat of Henry Island of Jesus, 184. Cuyler, Esq.) 265. Islands explored, 8, 17. ^ , OreenBush Fferry, overHtidspn, He du Pas, 194. .1 24. lies de Richelieu, 194. Greta Bridge, (0. B.) 54. Islands of the St. Lawrence, in* Gulph of St. Lawrence, 55, 166, numerable, 176, 177, 180. 229. He Commune, 191. . ^. , ..; Giilph of Mexico, 55.. He Therese, 191. , ■ i.>.i < - i Katskill, 272. ■''' ! Half- Moon, Pointy (sea W«tta> ford.) .> . ^ ^ Mountaips, 14^263, 273 Halifax»(G.B.)23e. Village, 272.. Hard Knot, (G. B.) 12. KewGardens»(G.JB,).241. , Havre de Grace, Maryland, 58. Kentucky, 81, 82. ,,;,,,- Haverstraw Bay, 5, 6, 7, 273, Kinderhook, 15. 276. lianding, 271. Heights of Abraham, 208, 204, Kingston, (New York) 258. 208. .,.".:;. r.- \_:; ;; (Up. Canada) 107, 143, High.hill Island, see Overterg. 175, 176, 178, 183, 185. Highlands, 7, IQ* 11,. 273, 275. La Chine, 184. Holland. Company 'a Lands, 118, La Floride, 140. 119. La Grande He, 167. Hopetown, 54, 76, 119. La Grande Riviere, 97, 129. Horseshoe Fall, 152, 153, 154, Lake above the Hudson, 6. 155, 156. singular, near Bath, 66. Horse Race, 7. Cayuga, 47, 48, 49. Hudson City, 15, 72. Champlain, 224, 23.5, 243, River, 4, 11, 19, 259, 256. 263, 265. , ,, Cochehatchie, 177. Hull, (G. B.) 188. Erie, 129, 130, 137, 138, Jacques Cartier River, 202, 216. 162, 163, 164, 166, 167, Jesus Island, 184. 169, 230. Jay's Valley, 273. :. ^^ George, 30, 224, 253, Indian Castle, 31. ,,. 259. Path, 116. Huron, 166, 230. " He aux Noix, 244, 256. Michigan, 166,230. Ile&laBarbue, 180. Oneida, 36, 42. IN DKX. XVll. S 1 Luke Ontario, 35, 137, 159, 162, 163, 164, 165, 167, 168, 169, 172, 173, 174, 175, 229, 231. .,,;„,„» St. Clair, 166. St. Francis, 180, 181, 195. St. John, 229. St. Louis, 183, 184. St. Pierre, 192, 193, 194, 195, 197, 222, 223, 224. Seneca, see Seneca Lake. Superior, 166, 183, 230. of the Thousand Islands, 177. of theTwo AIountain8,183, 184. Windermere, (G. B.) 12. of the Woods, 165. La Madeleine, 196. Langdale Pikes, (G.B.) 12. La Noraye, (see St. Joseph de,) 195. LansingburgfCity, 24, 261, 263. La Pointe Mai.' ;ae, jlOO. La Prairie, 242. La Velterie, 192, 226. Le Coteau des Cadres, 181. Le Cur6, 216. L'£nfant Jesus, 191. Le Groudine, 200, 217. Les Deux Frdres, 180. Limestone Creek, 42. Little Fails of the Mohawk, 32. Longueil, 191, 242. Lotbiniere, 200. Lunenberg, 15, 272. ^ Lyons, 82. Manlius Township, 38. Manor House, Governor Van Rensselaer's, 20, 26. Manor Houseof the Livingstons* Marcellus Township, 45. Marlborough, 274. Masquinongez River, 195, 224. Mexico, Gulph of, 55. Middletown, (see Watkinstown) Milepoint, 88. Military Townships, 38. , , , Missouri River, 55. Mississippi River, 65, 230. Mohawk River, 35, 36, 55, 63, 261. Great Falls, (see Cohoes,) 261, 202. Little Falls, 32. Monts Alleganys, 140. Montmorenci, Falls of, 208,210. Montreal, or Ville Marie, 55,143, 178, 183, 185, 195, 213, 228, 230, 238, 239, 240. Montreal, the Island of, 184, 228, 239. the Mountain of, 189, 190. Morpeth, (G. B.) 53, 95. Mount Pleasant, 6. Mud Creek, 56, 57, 59, 67. Lake, 64, 67. Murderer's Kill, 274. Navy Island, 143. Newark, (see West Niagara.) Newburgh, 11, 274. Newcastle, (G. B.) 20. New Hartford, 102. Orleans, 55, 230. Windsor, 11,274. c XViii. INDEX. New York, 3, 65, 63, 77. Ontario Lake, 35,91, 108, 116. '■ York Island, 277. Orleans Island, 203, 329. ' Niagara, Falls of, 111,132,133, Ostisco Lake, 46. • m 136, 136, 137, 138, 139, 146, Ottawa, (see UtUwa River.) 147, 162, 158, 15©, 162, 164, Oua Machiche River, Great, 167, 168, 169, 204, 209, 261, 195. 262. M. Little, 195. Niagara, Fort, (see Fort Nia- Overberg Island, 17, 269. gara, Fort West Niagara, Overslaugh, Lower, 18, 266, N West Niagara, and Nftvy 270, 277. Hall.) ,«trit^X Overslaugh, Upper, 18,266. Niagara, River, 130, 132, 183, Owasco Lake, 46. 134, 136, 136, 137, 188, 139, Painted Post, 66. ' • 140, 141, 143, ISO, 151, 159, Paris Township, 34.- ♦"'•■ 161, 162, 165, 167, 168, 169, PaUpsco River and Bay, 68. 170,231. j!^ ?^ Peeks-kill, 7, 276. Nile, 168,230. ' ■■' ' Pennsylvania to Canadarqua, 76. Nottingham, (O.B.)264. Perrot Island, 183. North Carolina, 81. Philadelphia, 60, 66, 61. North River, (see Hudson River) Pointe au Baudet, division line Northumberland, Pennsylvania, betwixt Upper and Lower 61,08. •:-,4^iyt.i'il<^ri ,ii Canada, 180. »•- ■ • ' - Oak-hill, 273. «..-.«,r-.« Pointe de Chambault, 200, 217. Ohio River, 66. • •'«*?•- 8U Fer, 244, 246. Oneida Castle, 36. du Lac, 196, 221. Creek, 36. ' Levi, 203. ' - Indians, 37. '"i »* ' Machiche, 19&. Woods, 122. ' ' ' Maligne, 180. Lake, 36,42. "»• « '»^- Platon, 201, 217. Mills, 37. aux Trembles, Montreal Reservation, 34, 37, 85. County, 191,228,233. Woods, 37. aux Trembles, 21 miles Onondaga County, 85. • '■" " from auebec, 202, 216. Creek, 42. * '^ " aux Trembles, Village Hollow, 42. *'*" *' and Church of, 216. Lake, 46. "*'' ' Polleple or Porpoise Island, 276. Reservation, 42, 4^. Popelops Creek, 7. Ontario County, 63, 72, 91, 92 Portages, 36, 150, 163, 180, 182. ■ 93. Potowmac, Little Falls of, 241. I N O K X. XIX. Poughkeepsie, 14, 273. I'resqu' lale, 178. ...>,.;^, . .., Putnam Rock, 2ft{>. Quebec, 6ft, 203, 204, 205, 207, 208, 210, 211, 212, 213, 229. Queenstown,l43, 144, 159, 160, 161, 102, 163, 167, 168. Quints Bay, 175. . i\ff} Rapids of Niagara, 134, 137, 146, 149, 152, 158. of the St. Lawrence, 178, 179,180,181,182,219. of Le Saut des Galots, 178. «fLeSaut Plat, 179. of Le Saut aux Citrons, 179. of Le Long Saut, 179. of Le Saut du Moulinet, 180. ,5i(H|i:iiu:'., «f Le Saut du Coteau du Lac, 181. of Le Saut du Coteau des Cadres, 181, 182, 242. of Le Saut do Buisson, 182. of Les Cascades, 182. of La Chine, 184. of Le Saut de la Biche, or Le Rochelieu, 200. above Montreal, 241. Rapide du Coteau St. Frangois, (see Saut du Coteau du Lac.) Redhook, 14, 273. Repentigny, 192, 228. Kio de la Plata, 2:)0. Riviere St. Frangois, 224. ail Chicot, 19,'i. au Lnup, 195, 224. Riviere de I'Assumption, 181. des Prairies, 184. Grande, Puante, 196. t*^ Petite, Puante, 196. . St. Jean, 184. Roohelieu, 197, 198, 200, 217. Rocks, dangerous, 107, 198,217. Rome, on the Mohawk, 35. Romulus Township, 85. ». Rundigut Creek, 91. . . i< Bay, 107, 109. M Saguenai River, 229. -;•> ,^ ' St. Anne, Canada, 197. River, 197, 209. New York, 257, 268. St. Antoine de Tilly, 202. St. Anthony's Nose, 7, 11,275, 276. St. Augustin, 202, 215. St. Charles, 222. ;./ St. Clair River, 230. St, Croix Parish, 201. St. Frangois, 191. . i!, -yiit* St. John's Parish, 197, 217. Village, Chamhly Ri- ver, 243, 256. St. Joseph de la Noraye, 192, 195, 222. St. Lawrence River, 165, 177, 185, 191, 203, 213, 232. St. Lawrence River is properly the junction of the Cadaraqiii with the Uttawa, 183. St. Maurice River, 196. St. Michael's Island, (vide Crab Island.) St. Sulpice, 192, 227. Sfllmon Creek, 91. i ■ XXir 1 N D K X. Salt Lafce, 43, .W. -'?'•■'•.■? .<■( t'> ■•.f'V •'V '.>Jt,■;^ ..; , ,vri( IW.su> -'>■> ,,.-, -r' ,<.;■:!;•; t7 1 -t' <-;) ( t^ f. •■• ,. v., , V '' .i«U -' .XA (I / 1 1} U Hi," . 'liJti v.H .. < ',;( ,.j^. twi( «iw 'i 185, 188, 189, 233, 236, 237, 238, 239. Cuyler, Henry, Esq. 265, 266. William Howe, Esq. - 64,60,63,66,68,69; 70,71,74,76,150,265. Dana, Mr. 54, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 69,70. '^'^''■r De ChambauU, Col. 190, 207.' " DeLiancoui-t, Due, 17,124, 125, 140, 141, 109, 239. De Peltcrie, Madame, 194, 224, 225; Denison, Mir. 264. Derenzy, Lieut. (4lst.)188,233. Devonshire, The Duke of, 139. Donnelly, Skipper, 3, 20. Ducet, (or Iiucet) Mons. 7, 276. Ellicott.'Andrew, Mr. 162. Benjamin, Mr. 162. ■tfi. Ellicott, Joseph, Mr. 102. Ellison, Rev. Thos. 20,21,23, 60, 80, 264. Ellison, Mr. 20. ;,',.•..,! Fish, Colonel, 106, 100, 112, 113. Fitspatrick, Mr. 34. Fort, Moses, Esq. 34. Ford, Mra. 275. Frende, Capt. (4l8t.) 101, 200, 201, 203, 206, aor, 208, 210, 211, 214, 218, 220,222,223, 233, 235, 238. Frobisher, Joseph, Esq. 185, 189, 233, 234, 237, 238, 239. Ga:rden8tone, Lord, 242. Gerrad, Mr. 185. Ghoram, Mr. 50, 07, 09. Granger, Mr. 106, 107. Gray, Mr. 185, 188. " ' Greevetf, Mr. 107. Gregr, Mi*. 95. ''' ' Guthrie, Major, (Artillery) 208. Haldimand, General, 209. Hale, ColoneT, 207, 208, 210. Hall, Mr. 08. Hall, Lieut. (4l8t.) 191,199,201, 203, 206, 211, 214, 215, 216, 218, 221, 223, 233. Hallett, Mr. 50, 79, 84, 85, 89, Hamilton, Colonel, 160,161,162. Harper, Robt.Goodloe, Esq. 34. Hay ward, Mr. 23. Hearne, Mr. 235, 237, 240, 248, 249, 250, 256. Hearne, Mra. 248. ■'''' Hennepin, Father, theTrnveller, 139, 166, 168. XXiv. INDIX. Henry, Mr. 180,235. Lawton, Captain, 160. ^),^.t Holt, Mr. UH. Ledgard, Mr. 23. Hotbread, Indian Chief, 117. Lees, Hon. John, 180, 235. Hotliam, Commodore, 8. L'Estrange, Lieut. (6th.) 215. Howard, Mr. 20. Le Roy, llobert, Mr. 265. Hudaon, Henry, 18. Mrs. 265, 277,278. Jay, Oovemorof New York, 29, Jacob,jun.2(>5,271,272, 172. 274. Jay, Mist, (davghUr of the Louisa, 266, 271, «7a, above,) 29. 'orj i.!' Leicester, Mr. 237. *.;.,«» il,,;* Jenkins, Menrs. S. and T. 10. Lewis, Tavern -Keeper, 10. Indian Alien, 103, 114. Thomas, Groom, 71, 160. Innii, Mr. 180. « . Judge, 14. John, (Seaman on board De Win- Lister, Mr. 235. /f ., jf ter's Ship, Oct.2lBt, 1707,) 3. Listen, Mr. and Mrs. 186, 186, John, CapUin, (4lBt.) 233. 208, 234. Johnstone, Lieut. (41st.) 233. Livingston, Mr. 14. «..;•. m Sir John and Ladyi v: ,.i( Chancellor, 273. 186. i ! Edward, Esq. 234, John, Esq. fiO, 61,64, . » - 235,237,238,240, 61,78,79,80,80,08, , • . 248, 249. 264. .-f •«-.y= John, Esq. 273. Jonas, Mr. 4. Lucet, Mons. (vide Ducet.) Junes, Mr. 236, 240, 244, 246, Macbeth, Mr. 189. 248, 249. Mc. Gill, Hun. Jas. 235, 237. Isaacs, Mr. 21. Mc. Giloray, Mr. 237,241. Kalm, (the Traveller,) 28. Mc. Kay, General, 271. Kane, Archibald, Mr. 29,264. Mrs. 170, 175. f • Elias, Mr. 29, 41, 46, 60, Mo. Kenzie, Mr. 98. 96. Captain, (4l8.)187, James, Mr. 30. 188,191,233,235, Katlin, (Sailor-boy,) 260—253. 237, 238. Kersey, Judg^, 71, 74, 76. Alex. Esq. 165,166, King, Mr. 106. 190, 239. King William the Third, 130. Mac Machin, Mr. 16, 271. Kipp, Lieut. 4,10,12,19,21. Macomb, Mr. 157. Lahontan, Baron, (theTraveller) Mc. Tavish, Mr. and Mrs. 185. 130, 161. 1 189, 235, 236. iNnsz. xxv. Mair, Lieut. (41st.) 233. MiMoii, Mr. the King'M Bo- taniit, 163,241. Mayor of Albany, (i«e I'liilip Van Renwelaer.) ' * •^' Maude, Francig, Mr. 80. Metcair, Captain, 74. Milnes, Robert 8liore, His Kx- ceHency, 190, 207, 210. Monroe, Mr. John, 101. Montcalm, General, 212. Montgfonnery, Gen. 204, 212. Montour, Monsieur, 223. Morgan, Mr. 21,2-3. Morria, Robert, Esq. 05, 118, 119. Morris, Thos. Esq. 80, 84, 83, 86,87, 95, 97, 08, 100, 101, 154, 157. Morris, Mrs. 05, 100, 101. Hon. Gouverneur, 234, 235,238,241. Morrison, Farmer, 65. Mousley, Mr. 4. Moyes, Dr. 157. Mullenders, .53. Munro, Mr. 189. Mure, John, Mr. 191, 207, 208. Murray, Mr. 141. Major, 235. Nicholas, (free African) 3, 16. Nicols, Mr. 17, 268. O'Brian, dipt, and Mrs. 239. Opden, — Esq. of New Jersey, 114. Ogden, Judge, Mrs. and Miss, 186, 237. ...» v. :> if. OgiUy, Mr. 142, 160, 175, 176, 177, 181, 185, IBS, 189, 101, 207, 233, 234, 238, 249. Oothout, General, 29, ' '' Parker, Mr. 186. "^ Patron, The, (see P. 8. V*n Rensselaer,) 22, 24. Patterson, Mr. 66, 67 Paudit of Tanawantee, 124, 160. Pelteric, Madame de, 104, 224, 225. Phelps, Mr. 07, 106, 107. ^••"•»' Pickering, Octavius, 4, 10, 21. Timothy, Esq. 4. Place, Mr. 207. Piatt, Mr. and Mrs. 34. "'"'" Post, Mr. 33. " '' Potter, Judge, 76. Pratt, Captain, 71. Priestley, Dr. 83, 84. Pulteney, Sir William, 64, 95. Putnam, Mr. 4, 10, 19, 21. . General, 255. Ramsay, Mr. 20, 50, 264. " Ray, Benjamin Mr. 162. Rees, Mr. 50, 85, 89, 98. Rcvardi, .H«jor, 171. Robbins, Mr. 17.7. Rush, Dr. 162, 185. Miss, 185. Samson, (Skipper) 170, 174. Sanger, Mr. 4. Jediah and Co. 44. Saunders, Lieut. (4l8t.) 2.33. Saxton, Frederick, Mr. 162. Schonondac, the Oneida Chid', (see Route.) d XXVI. INDEX. Schuyler, Genera], 22, Scott, Mr. 60, 54. Seigneur of Berthier, (see James Cuthbert, Esq.) 142, 181. Selby, Dr. 186,235. Sbafer, Mr. 178. Smith, Colonel, 13. Stafer, Mr. 103, 104, 105, 115. Steadman, Philip, Mr. 146. John.Mr. 144,145,146. Mr. 141, 150, 151. Stewart, Mr. 37. Still, Captain, 10. Thomas, Colonel, (41st.) 235. Thurman, Mr. 269, 270. Todd, Mr. 189,236. Tough, Mr. 142, 170, 184. True, Lieut. (4l8t.) 233. Van Rensselaer, Philip, Esq. 21, 22, 264, 265. Van Rensselaer, Stephen, Esq. Lieut. -Governor of the State of New York, 20. Volney, 86. Walker, Colonel, 33. Walsh, Mr. 84, 86, 264. Washington, General, 12. Watson, Mr. Brooke, 161. Wayne, General, 10. Weld, Mr. (the Traveller,) 141, 153, 213, 227, 239, 241, 275. Wells, Mr. 237. White, Hugh, Esq. 34. Wilcox, Major, 12. Wilkinson, (Farmer,) 65. Jemima, 54. Williams, Mr. 4, 10, 19, 21. Williamson, Captain, 50, 61, 63, 64, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 71, 74, 76, 78, 79, 87, 98, 105, 114, 115, 116, 118, 119, 125, 128, 146, 154, 164, 166, 264, 265. Williamson, Mrs. 121. Alex. 64, 68, 69. Ann, 64, 68, 69. Wolfe, General, 188, 203, 212. Yates, Mr. 84. WAKEFIELD: RICHARD NICHOLS, TYPOGRAPHER. MDCCCXXVI.