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l^lA(.rA]RA^f^rUA c.-tf'EMX

L( )N U( )N Loxi/MAS.ffi Ksr. jtsex. okmk. BKon-y.s^ (irkex,.ixi> KitH.uto v/rjroLX. WAKEVIEIJJ:

1826.

VISIT

TO TUB

FALLS OP NIAGARA,

1800.

LONDON:

LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN & GREEN,

PATERNOSTER-ROW,

RICHARD NICHOLS, WAKEFIELD.
MDCCCXXVI.

iitV'-''^

«9043

THOMAS WILLIAM COKE, Esq.

MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT

FOR THE COUNTY OF NORFOLK,

^C. ^C. ifC.

My Dear Sir,

I feel a peculiar gruiification in being
per.nitted to dedicate to you this portion of my
Travels in a country, where I passed the happiest
period of my life.

My most ardent friendships were formed
amongst the Americans, a jjtople whose rights
and liberties, whose prosperity and happiness
you have ever promoted from your earliest youth,
and who Justly consider you the steadiest as ivell ,
as the most zealous of their friends.

VUl.

DEDICATION.

To the Americans I am not only indebted for
numerous instances of hospitality , hut also for the
honor of your acquaintance — an acquaintance
which in the course of years has ripened into
friendship, and has fixed my attachment to the
House of Holkham,

It would be impossible for me on such an occa-
sion, not to express the high sense of obligation
I entertain, for the honor you have done me in
twice visiting my humble roof, and for this last
act of your kindness, in allowing me to dedi-
cate a work on America to the warmest of her
advocates.

I have the honor to suhscnbe myself.
My Dear Sir,
Your obliged,

and very faithful friend,
JOHN MAUDE.

MOOR-HOUSE, 1826,

■^ I

PREFACE.

The following Tour is a faithful Copy of a Gentle-
man's Journal, written to assist his memory, respecting
Che Events of one of the most interesting of the nume-
rous Expeditions he made through various parts of the
United States of America, during a residence of seven
years in that Country, at intervals from 1793 to 1803.

Europeans, who have visited America, and published
their Travels, are very numerous ; their Works volu-
minous, embellished with maps and engravings, piquant
anecdotes, political disquisitions, statistical tables, com-
mercial and agricultural information ; and in a word,
nothing omitted which Author or Publisher thought
likely to prove agreeable to the Public.

There is, however, evidently wanting in the greater
part of these Works, that more correct information
which their Authoi's might have attained from longer
Residence vn, and a less hasty passage through, the
CoVintry.

if!

ii.

PREFACE.

The Travellei*s, for the most part, were conveyed
from place to place in the public Stages, and returned
to Europe after short Visits without having had much,
if any, personal intercourse with the resident Gentry ;
consequently their Narratives betray but little acquaint-
ance with the best Society.

The author of this Tour had better opportimities
than most of his Countrymen of knowing both America
and the Americans. He traversed the old thirteen
United States from the District of Maine to Charles-
ton, in South Carolina. With Jefferson's " Notes oti
Virginia" in his hand, he crossed the series of Moun-
tains which compose the Blue Ridgb^ and visited
those objects, some of which Jefferson so vividly des-
cribes as *' the most sublime of Nature^s Works" —
the Sweet Springs : — the Natural Bridge : — the
Berkley Springs: — Madison's Cave: — and the
Junction of the Shenandoah with the Patowmac.
This last Scene alone, Jefferson says, is a "Scene worth
a Voyage across the Atlantic."

At various times and seasons he traversed Virginia
and Maryland; New York and the Eastern States;
and when resident at Boston, Rhode Island, New York,
Philadelphia, Washington, Richmond, Norfolk, Charles-
ton, and more especially Baltimore, associated with
the Inhabitants upon a fuuting the most Hattering to
a Stranger.

Numerous Journals, written by one whose early life
was spent in Ti'avel, and now clothed in handsome
Bindings have for many years quietly occupied their

PREKACU.

iU.

places on the well-filled and splendid shelves of the
Moor-House Library. After the lapse of one-fourth
of a Century, one of these Volumes has been with-
drawn from its repose, and without transcribing, has
been printed at the press of his native Town.

The Author, having with much pleasure observed,
that a superior and distinguished class of English Tra-
vellers have recently turned their attention from
"/a belle France'* and "classic Italy" to the hitherto
neglected shores of North America, has ventured to
publish this " Journal of a visit to the Falls of Niagara,"
in the hope that it may induce others of high rank to
visit a country, through which they cannot journey
without great and lasting benefit to both Nations.
As yet the English and the Anglo-Americans are in a
manner unknown to each other. As yet there has not
been any " reciprocity " of feeling. Two unfortunate
wars have alienated the afiections of the child from the
parent; and the Author of this Book must avow,
which he does with much pain, but without the most
distant intention of being personal, that the class of
English Travellers have hitherto had too great a pro-
portion of individuals among them, who by their arro-
gant bearing and illiberal remarks, have fostered and
kept alive a spirit of crimination and recrimination,
which the friendly intercourse this Work is intended to
promote, would, most certainly soften and allay. The
Americans, it is hoped, will accept the Book as a
testimonial of the Author's good will towards a people
by whom he was received more as a Relative and a
Brother, than as a Stranger; and among whom he
formed friendships that have been the solace of his life,
and, to this moment, gladden his existence.

fv.

PRBFACB.

He would now beg to draw the attention of his Coun-
trymen as well as their footsteps to the most interest-
ing Tour in all North America. In its whole line it is
historic ground. Unhappily, Hostilities between two
Nations, whom to see other than friends, is as painful as
to witness contention between Parent and Child, has
signalized almost the whole line of this Excursion. The
Banks of the Hudson — of the Niagara : — the Lakes
Erie and Ontario :— the course of the St. Lawrence : —
and the waters of Lake Champlain, have been the
Scenes of Actions to which Englishmen and Americans
must revert with equal regret.

Fortunately, however, the courage and generosity
displayed on each side in these unnatural, and thank
God ! unprofitable contentions, have taught mutual
respect ; and it is to be hoped that the better feeling,
which is now happily cultivated, will produce that
Alliance of good will and good offices, which, more than
any other, deserves the name of Holy ; and when
maintained with the zeal and intrepidity so character-
istic of each Nation, will bid defiance to any league
hereafter formed to interrupt or defeat their union and
prosperity*

It is a proud consideration for Britain, to know that
her descendants, more than those of any other Nation,
distinguish themselves by their manliness of character,
their love of liberty, the liberality of their laws and
institutions, and their improvements in arts, sciences
and agriculture : and that whilst their formidable
Navies and commercial Flags, visit every Sea, and
wave in every Port; the English Language is of all
Languages the most widely spread.

PRBFACB.

Taking it for granted, that Gray was right in assert-
ing, that a word written on the spot, is worth a cart-
load of recollections ; and that Dr. Johnson is good
authority when he says, that a traveller who relates
what he has himself seen, will be read with interest j
the Author, in the following Journal, has confined
himself to memoranda penciled on the spot and writteu
down on the evening of each day. ' ■ ^^^:

>I .1

DESCRIPTIVE LIST

OP THE PiATBS.

PLATI. i'AOC.

Engraved Title, with a Vignette View of the Falls of
Niagara, as seen iVom a Cavern.

1. 7. Entrance to the Highlands, and View up the River.
On the right hand is the Mountain called St. An-
thony's Nose ; on the left, the Three Mountains ; the
nearest to the Spectator is the Bear Mountain; the
second, Fort Montgomery ; the third. Fort Clinton,
with Mr. Ducet's residence. The course of the River
is between Fort Montgomery and Fort Clinton ; the
low Land in front of the Sloop is a small Island.

9. 8. Island on the Hudson, on which the Author landed.

9> 109. View of the middle and lower Fall of the Genesee, taken
from the summit of the banks. In this View the Upper
Cascade is called the Middle Fall, and has ninety-six
feet in descent. It was under the Arch of this Fall
that the Author penetrated. The lower Fall forms two
Cascades, which, together, have fifty-four feet descent.

4. 134. View of the Falls of Niagara, with the Rapids, and
Goat Island, from the Canada side of the River.

8, 147. View of Niagara, with Goat Island and the Rapids,
from the United States side.

6. 156. The Great Horse-Shoe Fall of Niagara, with Table

Rock, as seen from below.

7. 208. The Falls of Montmorenci, as seen from the Summer-

House, built by General Haldimand.

8. 276. View on the Hudson, looking down the River; the

Mountain in front is St. Anthony's Nose, with Fort
Clinton on the left and Fort Montgomery on the
right. This View is reversed in Plate I.

• .

JOURNAL.

New York, Saturday, June 2l8t, 1800.

6i p. M. Embarked on board the Sloop
Sally, Captain Peter Donnelly, seventy tons,
four hands, viz. the Captain, his brother Andrew,
John, who was on board Admiral De Winter's
Ship on the memorable 11th October, 1797,
and Nicholas, a free black acting as steward,
cook, cabin-boy, &c. had purchased his own
freedom and that of his wife, hoping soon to
effect that of his children ; performs well on the
violin, and is very smart. Twenty-four pas-
sengers, not births for more than half. Passage
two dollars each. Board and, liquors, as may
happen. Principal passengers. General Alleser,
of New York, violent democrat; Caul, of

4 HUDSON RIVER.

Seratoga, ditto ; Mr. Mousley, varm aristocrat
and federalist; Mr. Putnam, Mr. Williams,
Lieutenant Kipp, all three federalists ; the
youth Octavius, son of Timothy Pickering, Esq.
late Secretary of State, under the care of
Messrs. Williams and Putnam, both relations
of Mr. Pickering ; Jonas, of Montreal, Grocer :

of Michillimackinac; a drunken, Scotch

Presbyterian Minister; Mr. Sanger, &c. &c.
four raft-men, and a man and his wife from
Staten Island.

7 p. M. Unmoored ; fine S. E. breeze ; ten
knots.

8 p. M. Breeze slackened.

Midnight; cast anchor twenty-five miles from
New York, entrance of Tappan Bay, not wind
to stem the ebb. In tlTe night, severe storm of
thunder, lightning and rain. Not finding a birth
unoccupied, or scarcely one that did not con-
tain two persons, the Captain gave me his own
state room.*

*«

* Hudson River — rises in a mountainous Country, between the
lakes Ontario and Champlain; uhole length two hundred and
fifty miles. Albany to Lake George sixty-five miles, navigable
for Battoaux, exclusive of two portages of half a mile each. Tide
flows a few miles above Albnny, which is one hundred and sixty
miles from New York ; navigable for Sloops of eighty tons to
Albany, and for Ships to Hudson. Sixty miles above New York
water becomes fresh. Morse, 2nd Edition, publithed 1797.

t a p p a n ba y.
Sunday, June 22(1.

5 A. M. Turned out, got una-cr weigh:
Tappan Bay,* or Sea, five miles wide and ten
long; extremities marked by two remarkable
high bluflfs ;t scarcely a breath of air ; fog on the
higli banks of the bay ; heavy rain ; fell calm
when opposite toTarry-Town.J

* Tappan Sea — ten miles long and four wide. On the south
side fine quarries of reddish free-stuuc, used for buildings and
grave-stones, and area source of great wealth to the proprietors.

Steep-Rocks, a curious ledge of perpendicular shaley rocks,
which form the west bank of the Hudson River, with some in-
terruptions, for twelve miles from the Tappan Sea, to within
eleven miles of New York. Some of these ledges are from one
hundred and fifty to two hundred feet high. As you pass down
the river, from the Tappan Sea to those rocks, the prospect on
every side is enchanting. On the north of the Tappan Sea a fine
broad Bay opens to view, skirted with high hills; on the south the
River lies under the eye as far as it distinguishes objects; on
the west are the Steep-Rocks; and on the casta fine cultivated
country. Morsf.

Morse describes the Tappan Sea to be wider than Haverstraw-
Bay, which, in fact, is not the case, nor is it so represented in any
modern map. lie says Ilaverstraw-Bay is three miles wide: — it
is more; I was informed it was six miles. Truth, 'tis said, cannot
lie; but I say that it does lie, generally between extremes.

Tappan, four miles from the west bank of the Hudson. Major
Andre, adjutant-general of the British army, suffered here as a
spy, October 2d, 1780. Morie.

■\ I recognized in the Bluff ('Tellei's-point) separating Tappan
from Haverslraw-bay, the original of a sketch done by Blajor
Andr*?, with pen and ink, the night before his capture.

X Tarry-Town, a considerable village, thirty miles north of \ew
^'ork; here Major Andr"' was taken. Morse.

HAVERSTRAW BAY.

10 a. m. Sun broke out and light airs from the
north; beat slowly through the Tappanto Haver-
straw-Bay,* six miles wide, ten long. Stakes in
the river for the convenience of taking Shad.
Sturgeons constantly leaping out of the water.
Shewn the field from whence the three youths
first descried Major Andr6 : and the large white-
wood tree under which he was examined .f

2 p. M. Cast anchor; took boat and landed
at the ferry-house opposite to Mount Pleasant,
thirty-six miles from New York ; river here four
miles wide. Climbed the mountains to visit a
lake on its opposite side; large, considerably
above the level of the Hudson; pike, yellow
bass, and sun-fish. Strawberries on its banks.
Much chat with Betsy, who, born at the foot
of the mountain and apparently secluded from
the world, said she had been a great traveller,
" once to the meeting and twice to the mill."

7 p. M. Got under weigh ; light airs from the
north ; progress trifling. Came to an anchor in

* Haverstraw-Bay, thirty-eight miles above New York; ten
mileslongf and three wide; spreads south of Stoney-point. Morte.

f The White-wood, or Tulip-tree, was destroyed by Iightnin|f
on the 31st of July, 1801, the very day that the news arrived at
Tarry-Town of General Arnold's death; a most singular coinci-
dence. This tree was one hundred and eleven feet in heigiit; the
trunk twenty-six feet in circumference at the base; the diameter
of its branches was one hundred and six feet. Bait. Fed.
Gattttefor Aug. 25, 1801.

)m the
3aver-
kkes in
Shad,
water,
youths
white-

•t
landed

easant,

;re four

visit a

ierably

yellow

banks.

le foot

d from

iveller,

lill."

om the

:hor in

fork; ten
t. Morse.
lightning
arrived at
ar coinci-
i^^lit; the
diameter
tali. Fed.

THE HIGHLANDS.

the Horse-race, foot of St. Anthony's Nose;
river half a mile wide, channel from forty to fifty
fathoms wide three miles above Peekskill,* and
forty-eight from New York ; turned in at 11 p. m.

Monday, June 23d. - ; , .

Turned out at four a. m. Sketched a view
of Fort Clinton, Fort Montgomery, St. Antho-
ny's Nose, the Bear Mountain and surrounding
scenery; highly romantic and beautiful, being
the entrance of the Highlands ; to the south
very extensive and pleasing prospect down the
river through Haverstraw to Tappan Bay ; dense
fog on the lower part of Fort Clinton, Fort
Montgomery and St. Anthony's ; the site of Fort
Clinton is now occupied by the handsome
dwelling-house of Mr. Ducet, a french gentle-
man ; dreary situation and without society.^

* March, 1777, a quantity of stores were destroyed at Peeks*
kill by a British DetachmeDt of fire hundred men commanded
by Colonel Bird.

f St. Anthony's Nose; from which to Fort Montgomery on the
opposite side, a large boom and chain was extended in the late
war, which cost not less than .^70,000 sterling. It was partly
destroyed and partly carried away by General Sir Henry Clinton,
in October, 1777. Morse.

Fort Montgomery; north side Popelop's Creek, on which
are some Iron Works six'miles south of West Point, and fifty-
two north of New York. Fort in ruins, was reduced by the British
in October, 1777. Morse.

On the 6th of October, 1777, three thousand men, conveyed

THE HIGH LAN D S.

5 a.m. Took boat and landed on a small
Island: filled a cask with excellent water,
picked up some drift wood, and got a pitcher
of new milk for breakfast,

8 A. M. Returned and explored the Island ;
strange serpentine form: rocks and marsh;
much scrub wood ; four kinds of huckleberries ;
the swamp huckleberry, a tall shrub like the
alder, an excellent fruit just beginning to ripen;
the other still green ; could only gather a few
strawberries, the season being past. Laurel and
Prickly Pear in blossom; the flower of the
first, white M'ith red spots, shaped like the con-
volvulus; that of the Prickly Pear, yellow and
in appearance like the bloom of the melon and
cucumber. Gathered the root of Sarsaparilla
and a branch of Spice wood, this latter is a
great sweetener of the blood and a pleasant
flavor ; flushed a pair of partridges or pheasants ;
though these birds more resemble Grouse than
Partridge or Pheasant, I may here observe that
the animals of America differ materially from
those of the Old Continent, yet for want of more

by some Sliips of War under Commodore Hotham, landed at
Verplank-Point, forty miles from New York; of these, two
thousand one hundred were transported without artillery across
the Hudson to Stoney-Point, and from hence proceeded by a very
difficult pass over the Donderberg to the attack of Fort Mont*
gomery, and Fort Clinton, which were bothstonnad at tlievame
moment!

\ ?

THE HIGHLANDS.

appropriate designations, they frequently receive
the names of such European animals as they
most resemble; but these names are by no
means settled ; for instance, what are known as
Partridges in one part of the Country are called
Quails in another, and these birds will alight in
Trees, or on Paling. The Hares have white flesh.
I have been informed that some Sporting Gen-
tlemen have imported the English Red Fox as
affording better diversion than the native Grey;
and that although the Red Fox is the smaller
animal, it is the more ferocious, and is eating-*
out the Grey one, in. the same manner that the
Grey, or common Brown Norway Rat has eaten
out the native Black Rat of England. The
Black Rat was, however, a smaller animal
than the Grey. Mr. Bullock, of Liverpool, had
one of the ohl English Black Rats in his Mu-
seum, the only one I ever saw.

At the cottage observed a child about three
years of age, whose foot having been much
burnt had been bound up close to the leg, and
now adhered to it ; he walked on his heel.

9 a. m. Got under weigh ; head wind.

1 p. M. L Mills, are superior to most

in construction and situation, and very profit-
able ; four pairs of stones ; fifty-five miles from
New York ; the Miller takes down a cargo of
flour and returns with wheat.

1 1

WEST POINT.

3 P. M. Landed at West- Point,* the Gibraltar
of America ; centre of the Highlands ; fifty-
eight miles from New York. Yet, who would
have ever heard of West- Point but for the
defection of Arnold, and the melancholy death
of Major Andr6!

Lieutenant Kipp being personally acquaint-
ed with the Commandant Captain Stille, and
Messrs. Williams and Putnam bearing letters
to him, we were politely received, and permitted
to range over this impregnable fortress. Though
very sultry, we could not resist the temptation of
climbing up to the ruins of Fort Putnam ; where

* West- Point, sixty miles north of New York. It is situated
in the midst of the Hij^rhlands, and is stronj^ly fortified by nature
as well as art. Tiic principal fort is situated on a point of land
formed by a sudden bend of the River, and commands it, for a
considerable distance, above and below. Fort Putnam 'v? sitijated
a little further I)ack, on an eminence which overlooks v')i- other
Fort, and commands a great extent of the River. On the opposite
side of the River, the ruins of old Fort Constitution, with some
barracks going to decay. This Portress is called the Gibraltar of
America, as, by reason of the rocky ridges rising one behind
another, it is incapable of being invested by less than 20,000 men.
It was taken by the British, and afterwards re-taken by storm,
in a very gallant manner, by General Wayne. Benedict Arnold,
to whom the important charge of this fort was committed, designed
to have surrendered it up to the British; but Providence disap-
pointed the treasonable design by the most simple means.
Major Andre, a most accomplished and gallant Officer, was taken,
tried and executed as a spy, and Arnold escaped. Thus the
British exchanged one of their best Officers for one of the worst
Men in the American Armv. Morte.

THE HIGHLANDS.

at a vast height above the Hiuison, over-
looked much of the Hisjhlands,* and still more
of the majestic river, whicJi here deviates from
its usual direct course from north to south, and
in no [)lace more so than at West Point, washing
two sides of the triangle, so that a wind fair for
approaching it, is a-head when passing it,
consequently no enemy's vessel could escape
destruction, if hardy enough to attempt the
passage. The view from our present situation

* Hipflilanda, a mountainous tract of country on the banks of
the Hudson River, between forty and sixty miles North of New
York. The (lassage on the Uiver through these Highlands, for
the distance of about eighteen miles, is grand and romantic in a
high degree. The opening ticems to have been formed on purpose
for the passage of this noble River. In these Highlands are
situated the important and famous Fortresses of West- Point, Fort
Montgomery and Stoney-Point. The most noted Peaks are, as
you ascend the River, Thunder Hill, 8t. Anthony's Nose, Sugar
Loaf, Butter Hill, and )3reak Neck Hill. Ader passing the two
last, the Country opens delightfully, and presents to the eye the
pleasant Villages of New Windsor and Newburgh. These moun-
tains abound with iron ore. Morse,

The passage through the Highlands, which is sixteen or eigh-
teen miles, affords a wild romantic scene. In this narrow pass, on
each side of which the mountains lower to a great height, the wind ,
if there be any, is collected and compressed, and blows continually
as through a bellows; vessels in passing through it are often
obliged to lower their sails. The bed of the River, which is deep
and smooth to an astonishing distance through a rocky hilly
country, and even through ridges of some of the highest mountains
in the United States, must, undoubtedly, have been produced by
some mighty convulsion in nature.

THE II lOH LANDS.

was moHt sublime and tnagniticent. I do not
recollect one that I enjoyed so much ; it was
historic ground — iiad been trodden by Wash-
ington, was his favorite post, and his own
selection ! The scenery is, I think, iiowever,
unequal to one of the views near Windermere.
I allude to the view looking towards Langdale
Pikes, Hard Knot, and Wry Nose.

There were at present in garrison only one
company of Artillery and Engineers. The Bar-
racks are on a tolerably level plain of several
acres, on which were feeding a few horses and
about twenty cows. * ■ " '

While we were ranging over the garrison,
the Captain had taken boat and gone upon a
foraging expedition to the opposite shore, from
whence he brought off a quarter of veal, a
pitcher of milk, with some butter and cheese.

Lieutenant Kipp found here three or four of
his company, Avho, when disbanded on the 15th
Inst, entered into the service of the Artillery
and Engineers. Told som<i camp anecdotes;
Major Wilcox, to try whether the sentinel
and the officer on guard kneiv their duti/, gave
the wrong countersign to the one, and the wrong
parole to the other; the consequence was, (as
the Major knew not how to extricate himself)
that the young Lieutenant, then on duty, sent
the Major, under charge of a file of men, to
the guardhouse.

n A It N IC U A T.

• ColonrI Smith, the commandant, wishinjjf
alno to try tlie sentinel, when returning to camp
one nij^ht with a horHc and chair, gave when
challengr*' "who goes there?" " horwe and
chair!" the sentinel immediately exclaimed,
♦♦ chair stand still ! horse advance, and give the
countersign r

9 V. M. Got under weigh; having no wind,
drifted with the tide, boat a-head towing.

lOi P.M. Light southerly breeze; turned the
Scotch Presbyterian Minister out of the cabin
and put him into the hold. This man had given
himself up to dram-diinking, which kept him
in a continual state of intoxication, so that he
never left his birth but for a few moments;
his legs had running sores, which, being neg-
lected, were offensive to such a degree, that the
passengers had deteimined to pass the night
on deck, unless he were put below.

11 p. M. Passed Butter-Hill, and the Face
Mountain, the last of the Highlands.

lli P. M. Turned in; the cabin being by this
time tolerably ventilated.

Tuesday, June 24th.

4 A. M. Turned out opposite to Barnegat*

* Barnegat; eight or ton houses; tiie sole business of the few
inhabitants of this place is burning lime, from the vast quantities
of limestone which is found here. Morse.

1 1

POUGH-K E EPSI E.

and its lime-kilns, twenty miles from West
Point, and seventy-eight from New York ;
Light southerly air ; two knots.

6 a. m. Fell calm ; went on shore and got
a supply of milk and eggs ; could not procure
bread.

7a.m. Light southerly air ; got under weigh ;
hot sun.

8 A. M. Fine favoralJe breeze.

8^ A.M. Pough-keepsie* seventy-nine miles,
high wooded banks each side the river ; came
up with and [»assed four sloops. Esopus
Island ninety-five miles from New York. Eso-
pus F'lats one hundred miles; these flats, or
shoals, throw the channel of the river on the
opposite shore, where it forms a large bay ; fine
view here of the Katskill Mountains. Pass
Judge Lewis's and Mr. Livingston's country
seats.f

2 p. M. Redhook one hundred miles from
New York, beautiful situation ; opposite to the
Katskill Mountains ; two Islands decorate the

' ii

* Pough-Keepsie, eighty-four miles from \cw York, delight-
fully situated a mile from the east bank of the Hudson; contains
a number of neat buildiugs; Court- House, two Churches, an
Academy, &c. Morte.

f A young Irish Gentleman lately on a visit at Mrs. Livingston's,
enquired the height of the Katskill-Mountains, who, on ireceiving
the required information, exclaimed, " Indeed, Madam, but these
are very high Mountains for so young a Country!"

CITY OF HUD80N.

river. We were now carried along at the rate
of ten miles an hour, having scarcely time to
examine the beauty of the country, through
which we were so rapidly passing.

3 p. M. The city of Hudson,* one hundred
and thirty miles ; opposite to Hudson is Lunen-
berg,! or Algiers ; this latter name was given to
it in consequence of the piratical practices of
the inhabitants. In De Witt's map it is called
Esperanza. Above Hudson is a wind-mill ; I
do not know that there are four in the United
States. There are two near Newport.

4i p. M. Kinderhook one hundred and forty

* Hudson City. In the Autumn or 1783, Messrs. S. & T. Jenkins,
from Providence Rhode Island, nxed on the unsettled spot, where
this City stands, for a town, to which the River is navigable for
vessels of any size. In the Spring of 1786, one hundred and
fifty Dwelling-Houses, besides Shops, Earns, Four Warehouses,
several Wharfs, Spermaceti Works, a covered Rope- Walk, and
one of the best Distilleries in America, were erected ; its inhabi-
tants are at this time 1,500. Its increase since has been very
rapid. Supplied by pipes with water from a spring two miles
from the City. In February, 1786, upwards of 1,200 Sleighs
entered the City daily, for several days together. The Capital
of its Bank, (the Bank of Columbia) may not exceed 160,000
dollars.

f Lunenberg, a thriving Village of about twenty or thirty
houses. A number of the Livingstons have purchased land in and
about this Village ^0 the timount of 25,000 dollars, and have laid
out a regular town. A new Road is cutting from this Village into
the Settlements on the upper branches of the Delaware and
Susquhanna Rivers, which will probably prove highly beneficial
to the town. Morse,

BALTIMORE.

miles ; twenty houses ; Mr. M'c Machin's is tlie
principal one ; tine view ; Islands numerous in
this part of the river. Heavy thundering ; took
in sail : cast anchor.

5^ p. M. Got under weigh, in doing which,
lished up an excellent and large anchor, a valu-
able prize for the Captain. The gust, as expect-
ed, killed the wind ; in summer I never knew
an instance to the contrary. Had the gust kept
off, we should have been in Albany by seven
o'clock.

9 p. M. The wind having entirely failed us,
took the Sloop in tow, and at 7 p. m. had her
moored alongside a. Wharf in Baltimore, one
hundred and forty-five miles. Went on shore ;
took with us Nicholas and his violin, the fiddle
soon got the girls together; we kicked up a
dance and kept it up till midnight. Treated
with spruce-beer and gingerbread. Baltimore is
a shabby place, every other house a tavern ; in
number about a dozen.

Wednesday, June 25th.

3 A. M. Not a breath of air; took Sloop in
tow ; not possible to see from stem to stern, yet
passed a dangerous and difficult passage and
a bar, which require, it is said, your having all
your eyes about you.

H TO H- HILL ISLAND.

6 a.m. Made land; the fog beginning to
disperse; put the Presbyterian Minister on
shore; he is engaged by a Mr. Nichols as a
tutor to his children ! Boat returned with milk
for breakfast.

7^ A. M. Dropped anchor ; took Boat and
landed on High-hill Island, four miles in length ;
two farms ; got a few sour cherries ; one hundred
and fifty-four miles from New York. Crossed
to the opposite or west shore, and landed at a
farm house called Bethlehem, six miles from
Albany ;* numerous and handsome family.

9 A. M. Having hired a waggon, seven of our

* Albany: settled in 1760; forty-five Sloops (Vessels) owned
in Albany and forty-five in New York, &c., — total ninety Sloops
in the Albany trade, about seventy tons each — ten voyages
(twenty trips) per annum on an average; navigated by a Captain
at twenty dollars per month; a Pilot at fifteen dollars; a Seaman
and a Cook at nine dollars — total four hands. Freight twelve
cents and a half per cwt., gain one hundred dollars per voyage,
or one thousand do.irs per annum. Passage, one dollar and
twenty-five cents, average eight passengers, ten dollars a trip,
or two hundred dollars per annum.

Sloop Building nt Albany twenty-seven dollars and fifty cents
per ton, if green wood last only ten years, seasoned wood would
last thirty. Four thonsand White Inhabitants, and two thousand
Black Slaves. Revenue, 35,000 dollars. Corporation sell the
Quays (Wharfs) at two dollars and fifty cents per foot of Frontage,
and an annual rent of eight dollars and twelve and a half cents.
Lands near the Town from sixty-three to seventy-five dollars per
acre. Labour, fifty-six and a half cents per day; in harvest
eighty-seven and a half cents. Butcher's Meat ten to twelve
and a half cents per lb. Le Due de Liaucourt in 1795.

ALBANY.

passengers took their departure. Tlie day
being remarkably sultry, I determined to stay
by the Sloop. Returned on board with potatoes
and sallad.
Noon. Got under weigh ; light south air. '

2 p. M. Passed srfely t)ie Overslough.

3 p. M. Albany,* one hundred and sixty miles

».

* Albany, one hundred and sixty miles North of New York,
and three hundred and forty South of Quebec, North lat. 42, 39,
West Ion. 73, 30, Contained, in 1797, one thousand two liiindred
and sixty-three buildingfs, of which, eight hundred and sixty-three
weredwelhngf-houses; and six thousand and twenty one inhabi-
tants. In 1609, Henry Hudson ascended in his boat to Aurania,
the spot on which Albany now stands. The improvements in this
City, within five or six years, have been very fj^at in almost all
respects. Wharfs built. Streets paved, J3ank instituted. A new
and handsome style of fiuildingf introduced, and now excellent
water, (an article in which this City has hitherto been extremely
deficient, having been obliged to use the dirty water of the river)
is about to be conducted into the various parts of the City, from a
fine spring five miles from the west of the City. Albany is unri-
valled for situation, being nearly at the head of Sloop Navigation,
on one of the noblest Rivers in the World. It enjoys a salubrious
air, and is the natural emporium of the increasing trade of a large
extent of Country, West and North. A Country of excellent soil,
abounding in every article for the West India Market; plentifully
watered with navigable Lakes, Creeks and Rivers, settling with
almost unexampled rapidity, and capable of affording subsistence
to millions of inhabitants; and when the contemplated Locks and
Canals are completed, and convenient Roads opened into
every part of the Country, all which will, it is expected, be
accomplished in the course of a few years, Albany will probably
increase and flourish beyond any other City or Town in the United
States. Morte.

ALBANY.

from New York. Took up my quarters at
Lewis's Tavern, wliere I found Mr. Williams,
Mr. Putnam, young Octavius and Lieutenant
Kipp at dinner. Paid the Captain two dollars
for passage-money, and four dollars and fifty
cents, for board and liquors ; the same sum of
six dollars and fifty cents was charged for my
servant, though neither his bed nor board were
so good as mine. Our passage of four days
may be considered a long one, at this season
of the year, yet it was a pleasant one and no
way tedious. The Hudson is one of the finest
Rivers in America, and superior to them all in
romantic and sublime scenery, more especially
in its progress through the Highlands, a distance
of sixteen miles. What further added to the
pleasantness of this trip, were our frequent
expeditions on shore. We landed seven times,
and each time employed two or three hours in
exploring the country. We saw, too, the whole
of the River ; as we progressed but very few
miles during the time we occupied our births.
We usually retired at eleven, and rose at four or
five o'clock. The shortest passage ever made
on this River was by this same Sloop and Cap-
tain ; he made it in sixteen hours and six minutes,
from which should be deducted one hour for
time occupied in landing passengers by the
way. The passage often takes a fortnight to per-

ALBANY.

form it, and sometimes twenty-five or thirty days.
The passage is always shortest, the winds being
equally favorable, up the river, as you carry the
flood with you ; in the other case you out-run
the ebb. Captain Donnelly has taken 1,075
Dollars passage money in one year.

Thursday, June 26lh.

Dined with the Reverend Thomas Ellison^
fifteen years Minister of the Episcopal Church
in this city; was born at Newcastle, Great-
Britain. Mrs. Ellison and Mr. Ramsay, from
North-Britain, were of the party.

Evening. Visit SnufF Manufactory, Stadt-
house and a fine spring of wat about a quar-
ter of a mile out of town.*

Heavy thunder gust in the morning; very
sultry till noon ; pleasant evening.

* One mile North of this City, near the Manor-IIousc of Lieute-
nant Governor Van Rensselaer, are very inj^eniously constructed
extensive and useful Works for the mantifuciure of Scotch and
Rappee Snuffs, Roll and Cut Tobacco of different kinds. Choco-
late, Mustard, Starcii, Hair-Powder, Split Peas and Hulled
Barley. These valuable Works are the property of Mr. .Tames
Caldwell, who unfortunately lost a complete set of similar Works
by fire, in July 1794, with tiie Stof'i valued at 37,500 dollars.
The present Build'ngs and Machinery were begun and completed
in eleven months. These Works are decidedly superior to any of
the kind in America. The whole of the Machinery is worked by
w atcr. For the invention of this Macliiuery the proprietor has
obtained a patent. Morse,

ing
the
un

175

ALBANY.

Friday, Junk 27tli.

>n,
ch
at-
)m

It-
ir-

te-
ted
nd

!0-

ed
ics
■ka
rs.
cd
of

i»y

Mr. Williams, Mr. Putnam and Octaviiis set
out for Boston, Lieutenant Kipp left us yester-
day for Utica.

Yesterday enclosed Mr. Isaacs' letter to the
Mayor of Albany.

In the afternoon of the same dav Mr. P. S.
Van Rensselaer left his card.

This morning left card at Mr. Van Rensse-
laer's, who was gone to Schenactady.

Dined at Lewis's Table-d'hote ; present, Ge-
neral Campbell, Mr. Morgan, &c.

Inspection of the militia ; no order ; not sized ;
ill drilled. Muskets and rifles; duck guns,
pop guns, and bludgeons.

Tea at Mr. Ellison's.

Showers in the morning ; sultry ; heavy thun-
der gust.

Saturday, Jun':; 28th.

Walked south of the town, passed the Slaugh-
ter-house, the largest that 1 had ever seen ; ten
or twelve butchers at work, had already flayed
thirtycarcasesof sheep, lambs and calves, many
others were in the condemned hole ; excellent
situation out of town open to every wind, over
a creek near the Hudson; blood and entrails

ik!

A I. B A N Y.

thrown into the creek, where they afibrded a
fine feast to a drove of hogs. Proceeded to
General Schuyler's (father-in-law to Mr. P. S.
Van Rensselaer, the Lieutenant Governor, here
better known by the title of the Patron ;) plea-
sant situation near the town ; climbed the heights
in the rear of his house ; fine view of the Hudson
and surrounding country ; to the N. N. E. the
prospect was shut in by the mountain opposite
Saratoga, to the East of the River. Followed
a small stream to a deserted Mill, and from
thence to a small but highly picturesque cas-
cade. This is one of the most broken countries
that I ever was in ; deep though narrow gullies,
cut it up in every direction ; few of them can be
passed even on foot, without much difficulty ;
on horseback, the passage is impracticable with-
out artificial aid. These gullies are evidently
formed by the heavy rains of this country, whose
torrents soon work a channel in a soil, appa-
rently of sand and soft loam ; this part of the
country may be termed the Barrens, principally
producing the Scrub Pitch-Pine (Scotch Fir;)
these pines were much wounded by a small grub,
or caterpillar ; some I found actively employed
in eating their way into the young wood, and
others in their nymph state. The grass was not
cut, except in one field, and that was in cock ;
the Maize was not so forward as I had seen it a

ALBANY.

fortnight ago on York Island ; the potatoes
were about four inches out of the ground. Car-
rots we had this day to dinner for the first time.
Young potatoes and cherries have not yet ap-
peared in Albany. ■ ">' • " v.? . .n. -

Sunday, June 29th.

Saint Peter's ; Reverend T. Ellison. Dined
at home with General Campbell, Mr. Morgan,
Mr. Carpentier, Mr. Cockrane, Mr. Hayward

Mr. Ledgard, Mr. Bnwers and - from

Charlstown. Walked to the cascade at Rensse-
laer's Mills, two miles opposite side of the river,
superior to the cascade visited yesterday ; it is
of a very different character to Lowdore-Falls
near Keswick-Lake, but I think would be ge-
nerally more admired. A saw mill erected on
the verge of the fall greatly improves its effect.
In Winter and Spring this Cascade is visible
from Albany ; and from thence, Albany is seen
in its best point of view, being little more than
a mile from it in a straight line. it >■■■

Cold North West Wind ; a fire this day would
not have been unpleasant. - i .■ ; •

Monday, June 30th. "

Crossed the river to Bath, a town lately laid

ALBANY.

out by the Patron; it at preitent consists of
about thirty houses, but it is very doubtful if its
furtlier progress will be so rapid. The medici-
nal spring, and the baths, at one time so much
wanted, are now shut up and neglected ; yet, as
a watering-place, it was to have rivalled Balls-
town, and as a trading-place, Lansingburg
and Troy. A country girl, returning from
market, (who crossed the ferry at the same
time,) spoke Dutch and English with equal
fluency, and I may add with equal pertness.
Climbed the heights east of Bath ; fine view up
tlie river, and of Troy. Returned by the Lower
or Greenbush-Ferry. Never saw the wild grape
and wild strawberry vines in greater profusion ;
in the coppice near the river, scarcely a tree that
did not support one of the former ; or a field
that was not over^run by the latter. This ramble
was a very wild and a very pleasant one ; the
air bracing and refrestiing, and highly perfumed
with the fragrance of wild roses and red cloven
White clover is a native of this country ; the
red is, I believe, an exotic, though it is now to
be found in a wild state all over this part of the
country, even in the woods. The Birds I noticed
were Boblincolns, Brownthrashers, and Robins.
Afternoon. Long walk to the west of the
town ; fell in with the stream visited on Satur-
day ; being scanty of urater, followed its roman-

ALIVAN Y.

tic course by taking advantage of the moflt
elevated parts of its roeky channel ; the cliffs on
each hand nearly approached the perpendicular,
and were generally from about seventy to one
hundred and twenty feet, or perhaps more, in
height. My progress was at length stopped by
the cascade already described. The water being
very clear and cool, I took advantage of where
the rock was formed by the waters into a natu-
ral bason, to bathe.. The neighbourhood very
busy hay making.

Tuesday, July 1st.

•U',

' . . »

Market ; beef six and a quarter cents to nine
cents per lb. average price about five to six cents,
in t^e fall of the year four cents. No fish, save
sturgeon, vulgarly called Albany beef, and that
soon bought up ; it is sold by the junk and
skinned on the spot, which skin is a fine feast for
the hogs which regularly attend the Fish market.
The Americans brag much of their happy rid-
dance from British tyranny and taxation. A
word on this subject. The highest tax paid by
any individual in this city, whilst under the
British ciovernraent, was eight dollars per
annum ; this same Gentleman now pays, to the
peace establishment of his country, one hundred
and sixty dollars per annum, just twenty times

A L U A N V.

as much! In 1787, the first year of the adoption
of the present federal Constitution, a house
whicii then let in Albany for fifteen pounds per
annum, now rents for seventy pounds New
York Currency, which is as thirty-seven dollars
and fifty cents, to one hundred and seventy- five
dollars. Beef then sold for three cents, now six
to nine cents ; butter nine cents, now twenty
cents the year round ; eggs twenty for twelve
cents and a half, now twelve for twelve cents
and a half; sturgeon for one-third less; wheat
seventy-five cents, now one hundred and fifty
cents per bushel ; wine one dollar per gallon, now
two and three dollars. Accompanied Mr. How-
ard and to Wendell's Falls (Mills) the

same which I yesterday visited ; this morning
we also explored the part below the Cascade so
as to arrive at the foot of the fall ; the pool, or
bason, formed in this place, appears well adapted
for bathing.

Evening. Caldwell's manufactory ; followed
the stream on which the same is erected ;
climbed heights west of the Patron's Villa. Had
I the kind devil-upon-two-sticks to befriend
me, (for I know not how otherwise a stranger
can get acquainted with the routine of their
domestic economy, so sacred from profanation
do they keep their household Lares !) I would,
ere 1 bid adieu to this place, offer some obser-

A L H A N Y.

vations on tlio manners of the Albanians, espe-
cially of the old Dutch inhabitants. However
\e*. us hear what says the Duke de Liancourt.
" L'Hospitalite pour les Strangers ne parait pas
" ^tre la qualit6 dominante des citoyens d'Al-
" bany ; le pen que nous en avons vu est triste,
" lourd, vit chez lui avec une femrne quelque-
** fois belle, souvent gauche, t\ laquelle il ne dit
" pas trente paroles par jour, quoiquil I'appelle,
" my dear/"

If these " Lourds," when living, have not the
heart to entertain their friends, they are at least
generous to profusion, when dead ; when their
eye cannot see, when their tongue cannot chide,
and when their heart cannot grieve for tiie wasjte
and extravagance of the " merry mourners,**
v/ho, to supply the less of their friend, liberate
and adopt his wine ; whO; as they consign the
one to darkness, drav/ fortli *\e other to light ;
and who, as good and honest executors vislang
to do justice to the parties, take care that when
the vault receives the one, it resigns the other*
thus, no man gets drunk with his own wine;
thus, the saddec-t are the most joyfol; thus,
though the host is not drunk, he is dead : fhough
the guests are not dead, they are drunk ; and
thus no scandal to say the host and guests are
dead-drunk. If I have any thing more to say
of Albany, 'tis that it is beyond the latitude of

ALBANY.

cherries, and that the Citizens of the Country
drive waggons only ; despising carts, their two
horses harnessed chariot fashion.

Morse, in 1797, speaks of the extreme defici-
ency of good Water in Albany, and that the
Inhabitants were about to introduce water from
a fine spring five miles west of the City. This
fine spring water is yet without the gates of the
City, where, on the 1st of July, . "^00, I saw it
playing like a fountain before the door of the
Manor- House of the Patron, his Excellency the
Lieutenant Governor. As for being obliged to
use the dirty Water of the River, I will beg leave
to observe to Mr. Morse, that a very great pro-
portion of the City do not use the river water,
which said river water is far from being dirty j
rather remarkable for its purity, being a pleasant
wholesome beverage. Great part of the City is
supplied with water from a well in the main
street ; but the best water is from a pump to the
Westward of the Episcopal Church; it is a water
that my palate cannot find any fault with, nor
my eyes perceive in it those animalcules Kalm
speaks of j neither could I discover them in the
well water.

Wednesday, July 2d.
4i a. m. Started in the Stage for Utica; passed

SCHENECTADY.

Miss Jay, the Governor's daughter, in the public
stage waggon ; passed General Oothout driving
his own waggon.

7^ A. M. Schenectady,* (Indian Name, signify-
ing End-of-the-Woods ) sixteen miles ; Brown-
all's and Beal's Inn ; breakfast — loin of veal,
ham, strawberries, cheese, coffee, tea, tarts, pre-
served apples, &c. &c. Drove some miles
through rich and fertile Flats on the banks of the
Mohawk, worth one hundred and twenty-five
dollars and upwards per acre ; nineteen miles.
Boats poling up the Rapids, some difficulty in
getting over them ; water low ; boats draw about
two feet.

Noon. Dine at Warren-Bush, or Tripe-Hill,
thirty-three miles.

5 p. M. Canajoharee, (Indian Name, signify-
ing the Boiling Pot,) fifty-five miles. Mr.
Elias Kane, fellow passenger, introduced me
here to his brother Archibald, who has a well

* Schenectady ; one hundred and fifity to two hundred houses,
on the decline. Union College incorporated in 1797; thirty-
•even students; four classes; first languages, eight students;
second, History and Belles Lettres, twenty students; third,
Mathematics, six students; fourth, Philosophy, three students.
Funds and Stock 43,422 dollars and 60 cents, and 1604 Acres of
Land; Library, 1,000 volumes. Expenseof Education, including
Board, &c. less than 100 dollars. Morie.

There were eight hundred Indian Warriors in Schenectady
when Albany was first settled; three hundred of whom lived in a
space now occupied by a single farm. Morse.

CANAJOHAREE.

furnished Store, and carries on a very extensive
business. Archibald has been nearly five years
in partnership with his brother James, settled in
Albany, who have in that time made a clear
profit of fifty thousand dollars each ; two other
brothers are settled in New York, and one at
Fort Anne, near Lake George.

A. and J. Kane took, in the course of last
Fall and Winter, thirty-four thousand bushels
of Wheat, which were bought on an average at
one dollar and fifty cents per bushel, fifty-one
thousand dollars, and sold at New York for
one dollar and ninety-three and three quarters
cents, sixty-five thousand eight hundred and
seventy-five dollars. They took, also, in Potash
two thousand five hundred barrels, worth on
an average, twenty-five dollars per barrel, sixty-
two thousand five hundred dollars. So that in
these two ready money articles alone, they
turned over upwards of one hundred and twenty
thousand dollars.

A large family is no burthen in America ;

the prosperity of the K -'s is owing, in a

great measure, to their number ; it affords them
an opportunity of playing into each others hands.

Mr Archibald Kane kindly insisted on my
passing the evening and taking a bud at his
house, to which invitation I readily yielded.
Wiiile we were engaged with a bottle of Claret,

INDIAN CASTLE.

my servant was jockeying for a horse ; the bar-
gain was soon made, and I paid down the money
first demanded, sixty-two dollars and fifty cents.
Scrub Pine and Oak barrens from Albany
to Schenectady ; then rich Flats on the Mohawk ;
Red and Ground Squirrels ; Yellow and Black
Birds, Robins, Crows, a Sea-Gull and Wild
Ducks. Very cold Morning; pleasant day.
Walked a few miles, by getting start whilst
the horses were changing.

Thursday, July 3d.

Mr. A. Kane had breakfast for us at 5^ a. m.

6i A. M. Started, Mr. K. and self, on horse-
y3 2k. I had brought saddles and bridles with
Id from New York, and had taken my place in
the Stage no further than Canajoharee, having
some expectation that I should buy a Horse
there ; my servant went on in the stage. Road
along the banks of the Mohawk. Morning very
foggy; passed Stage whilst breakfasting at Hud-
son's Indian Castle,* sixty-seven miles. Fall-Hill,
seventy-three miles, very steep ; this declivity in

* This was the principal Seat of the Mohawk Indians; abounds
with Apple Trees of their planting, from which is made Cider of
an excellent quality. This was the favorite residence of Brandt,
the noted Indian Chief. Here are the remains of a British Fort,
built during the French War. Morse.

UTICA.

the ground makes the Little-Falls of the Mo-
hawk, which interruption in the Navigation is
obviated by a Canal.*

Noon. German-Flats, Aldridge's Tavern,
eighty miles ; here found the Stage again which
bad repassed us. Dined with the passengers.
No better Land than these Flats ; worth sixty
dollars per acre ; produce Wheat thirty bushels :
and Maize seventy-five bushels per acre.

5 p. M. Proceeded ; new Road very bad ;
the Stage wisely took the North side of the
River.

8 p. M. Utica (Fort Schuyler) ninety-six miles.
Schwartz's Hotel, excellent house, miserably
kept. Built by fioon and Lincklaen, (agents
for the Holland Company,) the proprietors of a
considerable number of the adjoining building
lots ; those East of these are the property of the
Bleeker Family, on which the principal part of
the present town is built — built too on short
leases of fourteen years, after which the houses
become the property of the owners of the soil,
to the certain loss and probable ruin of the
present Residents.

Utica is in the Township of Whitestown, and
contains about sixty houses. No genteel family

* This Canal is three quarters of a mile in length, and was
completed in 1795. Morse.

WHITESTOWN.

save Colonel Walker's, and he resides at a
small distance east of the Town.*

The great Genesee Road turns off at this
place. An Act has lately passed for making it
a Turnpike Road to Geneva and Canadarqua,
a distance of one hundred miles and upwards.
The expense is estimated at one thousand dol-
lars per mile j the road to be four rods in width.
The Inhabitants of Utica subscribed to finish
the first mile ; they formed twenty Shares of
fifty dollars each ; these Shares they afterwards
sold to Colonel Walker and Mr. Post, for
forty-four cents the dollar, who have finished
the first mile : thirty miles is expected to be
finished before the Winter sets in.

Bridge here over the Mohawk, the River
narrow, clear, and shallow j no fish; seven
boats at the Wharf; heard a bullfrog; groves
of sugar maple, a tree very common here.

Paid thirty dollars for a horse, which Lewis
had bought before ray arrival. Warm day.

Friday, July 4th.

Noon ; mounted our horses j passed Inman's.

1 p. M. Arrived at Whitestown ; one hundred

miles J White's Tavern; bad house; introduced to

* fn 1790 there were but three small huts here— in 1796
thirty-seven houses. Morse.

ROME.

Mr. Fitzpatrick. About forty houses j genteel
neighbourhood j excellent land j has produced,
per acre, ninety bushels of marketable shelled
Corn, (maize) exclusive of inferior or Hog-Corn,
and of Wheat, about thirty-five bushels : three
acres in the town sold, in one lot, four years
ago, for three hundred and thirty-two dollars
and fifty cents.*

Observed some handsome Sugar Orchards ;
introduced by Kane to Mr. and Mrs. Piatt,
with whom took tea ; Mr. P. a pleasant sensible
young man, a correspondent of my friend Har-
per, member of Congress for South Carolina.
Mrs. P. was a Miss Livingston, from Pough-
keepsie. Saw a dwarf of eighteen years of age,

* The compact part of this new and flourishing town (Whites-
town) lies ou one beautiful street about a mile in length, orna-
mented with trees. Water brought from the neighbouring hills in
pipes. Soil remarkably good. Nine acres of Wheat in one field
yielded, on an average, forty-one butihels of Wheat of sixty
pounds each, an acre ; this is no uncommon crop. This town and
its neighbourhood has been settled with remarkable rapidity.
All that district comprehended between the Oneida Reservaiion,
and the German Flats, and which is now divided into the townships
of Whitestown, Paris and Westmoreland, was known a few years
since by the name of Whitestown, and no longer ago than 1785
contained two families only, those of Hugh White, and Moses
Fort, Esquires. In 1796 there were, within the same limits, six
parishes ; three full regiments of Militia, and one corps of Light
Horse; in the whole 7,639 inhabitante, of whom 1,190 were
qualified electors. Morse.

ROME.

not three feet in height. Very warm day, espe-
cially from 5 to 7 p. m. Some mosquitoes.

Saturday, July 5th.

Started 5^ a. m. Woods ; few Settlements.
• 8 A. Bi. Rome ; (Fort Stanwix) White's Tavern,
one hundred and twelve miles. Settled within
six years; forty houses; situated midway be-
tween the heads of navigation of the Mohawk*
and Wood-Creek, on the Canal uniting those
waters. Canal nearly two miles in length ; two
locks, one at each end ; cost seventy-five thou-
sand dollars ; lock dues from two to four dol-
lars agreeable to the load ; much less expense
and trouble than attended the portage, yet
boatuien much dissatisfied. August 1st, Capt.
Williamson informed me, that these lock dues
were far from being so moderate as here men-
tioned ; — that every bushel of wheat paid ten
cents ; of salt, twelve and a half cents j and a
barrel of flour, fifty cents.

Visited the Canal in its whole lengt!> ; water
very low in the Mohawk and Wood-Creek ; has
sensibly decreased since the first settlement of
the Country, which causes this navigation to be-

* The Moliawk rises twenty miles to tlie north of the Fort; ami
eight miles from Black River, a water of Lake Ontario. Momr.

!;>!

■ij

.16

WO OD-CREEK.

come more and more tedious and laborious, iih*
somuch that it is expected to he neglected as
soon as the Turnpike Ruad is finisher! from
Utica to Geneva and Canadarqua. Paid also
a visit to Fort Stanwix and Blockhouse. Tlie
Mohawk is not here above ten or fifteen yards
across, and two or three feet deep. Wood-
Creek is not above six, seven, or eight feet in
width at the liead of navigation, and from twelve
to eighteen inches in depth. As the boats draw
two feet of water, they, during the present scar-
city require every now and then a lock-full from
the Canal, to assist in ascen<ling and descend-
ing Wood-Creek. There is another route by
which the Wood-Creek, the Canal, and the
Mohawk, as far as Utica, may be avoided ; it
is from the Oneida Lake, to ascend Oneida
Creek about three miles, from whence a road
will require making to (Oneida Castle, a distance
of about three miles more, when you fall in
with the Turnpike- Road within t^venty miles of
Utica. The advantage of this Route is that you
substitute a good land for a bad water carriage,
and save two-thirds of the distance. You save
also much time, and probably will not find it
more expensive. Had salmon for dinner, caught
in Wood-Creek.

4i p. M. Proceeded.

7 p. M. One hundred and twenty miles; Baited

ON£IDA CASTLE.

at Langdoa's ; small log hut ; one hundred and
twenty-six miles; Oneida mills; — good mills,
built for the Oneida Indians.

9 p. M. One hundred and twenty-seven miles.
Passed through Oneida Castle; six hundred
Oneida Indians; a reservation of twelve miles
square; cannot dispose of it. No bargain with
those Indians, by individuals, good in law.
Kane held a conversation with a young Squaw,
and afterwards with an Indian youth, in their
own tongue. The latter lived in a boarded
house, the only one I saw in the Castle. At this
Castle we fell in with the main Genesee Road.

10 p. M. Wemps's Tavern, one hundred and
thirty one miles ; good, civil, clean. Met here
a Mr. Stewart. Road tolerable for two or
three miles; then execrable to Oneida Mills;
thence, very good to Wemps's. Struck into the
Oneida Woods on leaving the Canal ; new road j
bogs every other step ; little cleared land the
whole route, (owing to its belonging principally
to the Indians) land, however, excellent. The
Timber principally Beech and Sugar Maple.
Birds the Whip-Poor-Will and the Hoot-Owl.
Very warm day; full moon at 8 p. m. or could
not have proceeded.

Sunday, July 6th.

Started 5 a.m.; bad road for a few miles.

> ■■

88 MILITARY TOWNSHIPS.

7a.m. Indian Settlement of Canaseraga, on
Canaseraga Creek, one hundred and thirty-nine
miles ; not numerous, perhaps twenty families j
dress as the Whites, and many speak a little
English; the Oneidas preserve their ancient
costume,

7^ A. M. Chittinengo Creek, (me hundred and
forty-one miles.

8 a.m. Sayles's Tavern at Deep Spring, in
Manlius Township, one hundred and forty-
three miles. Had now entered upon the Mili-
tary Townships, which the State of New York
had granted to the Officers and Soldiers, who
had served in their line during the war. Each
Soldier had a patent made out for six hundred
acres. These patents were soon bought up by
the speculators, who very rarely gave more
than eight dollars, or half a joe, for each patent
of six hundred acres, now selling from three to
six dollars per acre ! 'Tis true the Soldiers sohl
their patents many times over — perhaps once
a week.

Congress, by Act of the 16th of September,
1776, did resolve that a Bounty of Land should
be given to the Continental Array, viz. : —

Acres.
Private and Non-Commissioned Officer. . 100

An Ensign 150

Lieutenant , 200

Major 400

MILITARY TOWNSHIPS. 39

;,'. I • > ■. Acre*.

Captain 300

Lieutcitant-Coloncl 450

Colonel 500

Ami by an Act of Tith of August, 1730, —

Brigadier-General 850

Major-General 1 100

The State of New York undertaking to pro-
vide for her own Citizens, serving in the Army
of the United States, passed an Act on the 27th
of March, 1783, which granted to them a quan-
tity of Land tive-fold in addition to the grant
of Congress ; making their proportion as
follows : —

Acres.
Private and Non-Commissioned Officer, . . 600

An Ensign 900

Lieutenant 1200

Captain 1800

Major 2400

Lieutenant-Colonel 2700

Colonel 3000

Brigadier-General 5100

Major-General 6600

In 1788, the current price for a Soldiers
right was eight dollars ; in 1792, they had
risen to thirty ; they are now, even those in a
wild, unimproved state, worth from three to
five dollars per acre.

U£E1> MFK I N O.

m ;

;, t

Sayles gave us a good breakfaHt ; settled here
six years ago ; gave three dollars per acre.

Visited the Deep Spring ; great curiosity ;
situated some feet below the general surface of
the earth, in a cavity formed like a tunnel,
probably by the Spring itself; it re-enters the
earth at the bottom of the tunnel ; the Spring
being about midway down, comes out with
great violence ; is well tasted ; surrounded with
fine large Beech and other Trees, — their trunks
fully covered with the carved initials of visitors'
names ; excellent place for a Bath, Spring-
house, and Summer-house.

11a.m. Proceeded; much cleared land;
soil excellent, — almost wholly in Wheat and
Grass; as not more Corn (Maize) and Oats
raised than necessary for family use. Crops
appear even superior to those on the Schenec-
tady and German Flats ; perfectly clean, — no
weed or intermixture of other grain ; they
reckon here thirty or thirty-two bushels per
acre, or thirty-five or thirty-seven, if the ground
was clear of stumps, and less shajled by sur-
rounding woods. As another instance of the
goodness and fertility of the soil, these ciops
of Wheat are put into the ground, immediately
after the brush-wood and timber are burnt and
cleared off, and the harrow has passed once or
twice over the field. The plough is seldom if ever

A O R I C D I. T U II G.

used, either for Wheat or for laying the ground
down in Grass ; and this is genoral'y done after
the first crop of Wheat, as pjrazing ami meadow
ground is much wanted. The Hay crops are
also heavy, from two to three tons per acre.
The Wheat of this part of the country bears
the highest price in the New York market,
seUing for four-pence, eight-pence, and a shil-
ling (four cents, eight cents, and twelve and a
half cents) i>er bushel more than the North
River Wheat, which is reckoned the next besf
Grass Lands are laid down with Timothy anr'
Red Clover Seeds; White Clover is a nati-'e of
the country, and greatly abounds here.

The Woods are almost entirely Beech and
Sugar Maple; also Uickeries, Butter-nut, and
other species of Walnut , 3ass, (the American
name for Lime or Linden) Tulip-tree, or White-
wood, or Magnolia, Elm, Poplar or Aspen,
and Oak. Ground covered with the vines of
Wild Strawberries. Met a boy, with a Wood-
chuck or Ground-hog — a hog in miniature.
Met a man, with a string of small Trout. Kane
killed two Garter and one Black Snake; saw
Milk Snake dead on the road. Kane has
sworn never to forgive the Snake ^ mitting
the Devil to take its form on a memorable oc-
casion, and is therefore determi^ sd to pass no
opportimity of «• bruising th-: set-pent'' s heady"
and that too with " /lis heel.'

*'';;]>

ONONDAGA.

. This part of the country is notoriously infested
with Snakes, especially with Rattlesnakes.
Hogs hunt for and pursue Rattlesnakes with
eagerness and avidity, and eat them as greedily.
One hundred and forty-seven miles Limestone
Creek ; one hundred and tifty-one miles But-
terraar Creek; Blooming Vale, one hundred
and fifty-three miles ; entered the Onondaga
Reservation. The four Creeks at one hundred
and thirty-nine, one hundred and forty-one,
one hundred and forty seven, and one himdred
and fifty one miles, are Waters of the Oneida
Lake, into which they fall in one united stream ;
the confluence of the three last is at one and the
same point.

2j^ P.M. Descended iu.D the Onondaga Hol-
low, to Wheeler's Tavern, (late Tyler's) one
hundred and fifty-five miles, on Onondaga
Creek. This old Indian Settlement and ten
miles square, the State reserved and secured
to the Onondagas ; they since |)nrchased it of
them for an old song, and sold it in lots by
auction from two dollars and fifty cents to five
dollars per acre. Saw traces of other Indian
Settlements in the course of this morning's
ride.

Were now only six miles from the great Salt
Springs, the property of the State, situated at
the junction of the Onondaga Creek with the

SALT SPRINGS.

Salt Lake. Permission is given to any indi-
vidual to make Salt, on condition of paying
four cents for every bushel of Salt he makes.*

The water of these Springs is considerably
more impregnated with Salt than Sea-water;
one hundred gallons will produce two bushels
of Salt, fifty-six lbs. to the bushel, which is
one-sixth Salt, agreeable to measure, or one-
eighth agreeable to weight, allowing the gallon
to weigh nine pounds, or one-eighth more than
fresh water.

As I suspect that these experiments were
made with brine from the strongest Spring, and
at the most favourable season, I conclude the
average produce will be one of Salt for twelve
of Water. Salt from Sea-water is about one
for thirty ; five bushels of Salt makes one bar-
rel, and fifty thousand barrels (1 believe my
informer ought to have said bushels instead of

* There are many Salt Springs at the head and round about this
Lake, which is a beautiful sheet of brackish water, of about six
miles long and two broad. About three hundred yards from tiie
head of the Lake, the Salt Springs issue from tlie foot of a steep
bcnk thirty feet high, whose waters are said to be twice as salt as
those of the Ocean. Here are twelve kettles, of forty gallons each,
constantly kept boiling, and make at the rate of twenty bushels a
day of beautiful small white salt. I suppose there is sufficient
water in one of the wells (springs) as would supply one hundred
kettles. Two hundred cord of wood is consumed in six weeks.

Patrick Campbell, March, 1792.

SALT SPRINGS.

lip'

barrels) are supposed tt> be annnally made at
these Works, which at four cents per bushel,
yield a revenue to the State of ten thousand
dollars per annum. Twelve thousand bushels
•were exported to Upper Canada.

Jedidiah Sanger and Co. are the principal
manufacturers ; they employ thirty-seven kettles
of one hundr«^d gallons each, which quantity is
converted into Salt in eight hours ; they can make,
therefore, forty-four barrels in twenty-four hours.
The whole number of workmen do not exceed
one hundred and fifty ; they receive one-fourth
of the Salt made, and have wood and kettles
found them. The wood is delivered at the
kettles for one dollar to one dollar and twenty-
five cents per cord. The manufacturers are not
allowed to sell Salt higher than sixty-five cents
per bushel, or about three dollars per barrel.
Salt is now very low, and for cash may be
bought for two dollars per barrel. By the above
account twelve kettles, of forty gallons each,
produce forty-four bushels of Salt in twenty-
four hours, which is at the rate of one bushel of
Salt to twenty-four gallons of capacity; or, al-
lowing the water is converted into Salt in eight
hours, it takes seventy-two gallons of water to
make one bushel of Salt. But by a statement
which I procured, thirty-seven kettles of one
hundred gallons each, produced two hundred

1 ,1

SA LT 8PUI NGS.

and twenty bushels of Salt in twenty-four hours,
which is at the rate of one bushel of Salt to
about seventeen gallons of capucity, so as to take
only fifty gallons of water to prDduce a bushel
of Salt. This difference in our statements pro-
ceeds probably from two causes ; the first may
be attributed to the springs being of different
strengths and that most Salt is produced in the
hottest weather ; the second cause I attribute to
the difierent size and formation of the kettles :
the forty gallon kettles, were, I have little doubt,
deep pot-ash kettles; whilst the one hundred
gallon kettles were, in fact, shallow pans. It is
also more than probable that the forty gallon
kettles did not convert the water into salt in so
short a tin.e as eight hours. - < "

4 P.M. Proceeded; country open; high
ridges ; well watered ; fertile ; o le hundred and
sixty-three miles ; quit the Or ondaga Reserva-
tion, and enter Marce'lus Township, which,
five years ago, was totally in wood — now many
thousand acres of wheat. Patrick Campbell,
who travelled through this country in March,
1792, mentions that the whole distance from the
Onondaga Hollow to Cayuga was in forest;
that in this place he met with on\y one house
and two new erected huts. He further mentions
that he never saw so many Maple or Sugar
Trees, as in this district.

'Ill

08TI SCU LAKE.

;■ fJ?

7 P. M. Rice's Tavern ; one hundred and
sixty-five miles. New house a few hundred yards
east of old one ; well supplied with water,
brought to the house and farm-yard in pipes ;
constantly running. Rice's is situate near a
Creek, the outlet of the Ostisco Lake, one of the
head waters of the Salt Lake, or Onondaga
Lake ; this Lake empties into the Seneca River.
Dined at 9^ p. m. Not so sultry as three last
days — refreshing breeze moderating the heat of
the.sun. . ;. ;,;, < .,-,. i' i -w.!. • .-

;>i:r

I- 11, 1

Monday, July 7th.

6 A. M. Departed ; country much cleared,
as last twenty miles ; one hundred and seventy
miles. Gross the outlet of Skaneateles Lake, a
water of Seneca River. . *,

7| A. M. Leonard's Tavern ; one hundred and
seventy-two miles: neat, attentive. Aurelius
Township ; land worth three to five dollars in
wood, and fourteen or fifteen when cleared and
improved.

94 A.M. Proceeded; one hundred and se-
venty-seven miles. Fall in with the old Genesee
Road at a small Settlement on the outlet of
Owasco Lake, a water of Seneca River ; one
hundred and eighty miles. Separated from
Kane, he going to Aurora, twelve miles further.

CAYUGA.

Land now gravelly, consequently covered prin-
cipally with Oak. , u / . =

li P.M. Cayuga;* Harris's Tavern; one
hundred and eighty-six miles. Finding that
there were no Oats to be had, that the Hay
was half a mile from the stable, and that
Mrs. H. had no eggs to her bacon, I ordered
my horses to the ferry, first giving them a little
rest and grass. Cayuga has risen from the
woods since two years, — contains fourteen
houses inhabited, though not all finished, and
fourteen building ; amongst these, one on the
top of the Hill, first intended for an Inn, now
designed for a Court-house. This town is not
very healthy : the body of water is to the S.W.
•the worst possible aspect. ' = .

3 p. M. Embarked in the ferry-boat ; made
sail with wind on starboard bow, to wit, a
North-wester; obliged to tack for fear of ruaning
foul of the New Bridge. This Bridge will be
a mile and quarter in leugth; the longest in
America — perhaps in the world ! Yet five years
ago the Indians possessed the shores of this
Lake, embosomed in almost impenetrable
woods ! The breadth of the Bridge is twenty-

* Cayuga Bridge was ^Dished on the 4tli of September, 1800.
It is a mile and a quarter in length ; admits three waggons abreast;
cost 150,000 dollars; built by the Manhattan Company, and took
eighteen months in building. Troy Netvspaper.

O WASCO LAK E.

two feet within the railing ; the bends are
twenty-five feet apart ; the Bridge is more than
three parts finished- -was begun fourteen months
ago, and is supposed will be passable in four
months more : the cost is estimated at thirty
thousand dollars. The Proprietors are some
adventurous spirits in New York: in a few
years they will receive cent per cent for their
money. In February last, from fifty to one
hundred teams passed this Ferry in a day, and
upwards of ten thousand bushels of wheat in
a week. The Lake at the Ferry has six, eight,
and twelve feet water, and twenty feet of mud
and soft ground — the water so clear, that I
could see the bottom the whole passage ; is
forty miles long and four at the widest, where
the water has not yet been fathomed, and
never freezes : both ends of the Lake freeze
sufficiently strong to admit the passage of
waggons and sleighs on the ice ; well stocked
with fish, as Bass, — (this is a favourite word
with the Americans ; they not only call trees
by this name, but five or six distinct kinds
of fish) Cat-fish, Eels, Pickerels, &c. &c. Cat-
fish have been taken thirty pounds and up-
wards, reckoned the finest fish in the Lake.
Were an hour performing the passage ; pleasing
and extensive prospect ; the mountains beyond
its upper extremity, a direction in which the

OWASCO LAKE.

Lake itself extends thirty-eight miles. The
entrance of the Seneca River, about a mile in
the opposite direction ; and its exit at the
northern termination of the Lake, are its most
interesting features.

One hundred and eighty-nine miles. Bridge
over Seneca River ; above and near the bridge,
a grist and a saw mill ; at the foot of the
Rapids, the water clear as crystal — rages like
a mountain torrent; light and steep banks,
covered with wood to the water's edge, chiefly
Hemlocks, (a species of Pine) : the whole sce-
nery highly romantic. The River is from fifty to
eighty yards in width : a portage here of half
a mile. Passed through much Oak timber.

4i p. M. Ghoram's Tavern, one hundred and
ninety-three miles ; on the banks of the River.
Dined on venison, killed last night, a mile from
hence ; well supplied with fish ; drank the
river water — clear and good, but too warm.
' 6 p. M. Proceeded; pestered by a Doctor,
determined to know who and what, from
whence and where bound? — He had more than
American curiosity and perseverance. Flushed
both Paitridges and Quails — Quails said not
to be natives of this country — ^keep pace with
the Settlements — unknown to the Indians be-
fore the arrival of the Europeans — never seen
in the Genesee till within these two years ; met

One hundred and

;i:

a man with fine large eel.

GENEVA.

ninety-eight miles. Enter the Genesee, here
divided from Junius Township, r', 7,. • •/

8 p. M. Geneva ; head of Seneca Lake ;
Powell's Hotel — large and well kept; opened
within seven months after the foundation was
laid. Two hundred miles. Very scorching day;
thermometer 91® — yesterday was at 90**. ^

Tuesday, July 8th. . ' ;' ,;

Presented Mr. Ellison's and Mr. Ramsay's
introductory letters to John Johnstone, Esq. and
Mr. Caton's to Captain Williamson. Present
Residents at the Hotel are. Captain Williamson,
Mr. Johnstone, Mr. Carr, and Mr. Calais, of
Georgetown, Maryland; Mr. Scott, and Mr.
Beekman : in addition to those at dinner, were,
Judge Atwater and Mr. Ghoram, of Canadar-
qua; Mr. Hallet and Mr. Rees, late of Phila-
delphia, now of Geneva. — Very sultry. Noon,
a severe thundergust; strange effect on the
Lake; for ten or fifteen minutes the water
assumed a variety of colours ; on this shore, a
beautiful bright green, as if highly tinged with
copperas, divided from the dark purple hue of
the opposite shore, by white streaks. . { ,,<

Wednesday, July 9th.

Kane joined us at breakfast, staid dinner.

CAYUGA.

and proceeded to Cauadarqua in tlie waggon.
Day sultry — Evening) severe thundergust.

I >v' • f-'^ ' t*"* t i. ■

i<,

f, i.:^

Thursday, July 10th.

, Mr. Carr wishing to see the Cayuga Bridge,
made a party : Captaui Williamson, Mr. John-
stone and Mr. Carr ; set out 4 a. m.

7a.m. Tavern, twelve miles ; breakfast. At
Cayuga, met a party of Onondaga Indians going
to Buffaloe Creek — twelve persons, including
Squaws and Papouses — ill dressed — two only
looked well — mostly dark brown hair — one rifle
— ^heavy loads carried by the Squaws — com-
plexion not red, but as an European would
probably become by the same exposure to the
sun and weather ; saw a young bear — tame and
playful. On our return, turned off at twelve
miles, to visit the outlet of Seneca Lake ; here
found a small encampment of Indians, much
finer looking people than those seen at Cayuga;
had a fire, but no hut ; Squaws surrounded the
fire ; men at a small distance. Thermometer
92® ; gale from W. in night, ^^ii^un .mi >^ :

Friday, July 11th. "^ ^^.i .; .

Day sultry; pleasant evening; ride out on
the Bath Road. Last nine days as warm as I

AGRICULTURE.

ever experienced in America, (that is, when not
8liut up in large towns, but as much exposed to
the air as in Geneva) save tliat the nights were
cooler than on the sea-coast. Captain Wil-
liamson never before experienced such a spell
of warm weather in the Genesee.

Saturday, July 12th.

I .

!.».

mil

Evening, ride out six miles on the Grand Sodus
Road ; pass Indian Castle and clearances ;
excellent land ; fine farms ; Hay principally got
in; Wheat turning brown ; land in wood worth
about six dollars per acre. Farm of one hun-
dred and fifty acres, which cost two hundred
and fifty dollars, sold last year to the amount
of one thousand two hundred dollars in cyder,
from orchards planted by the Indians ; upwards
of three tons of red clover has been gathered
per acre, the stalks four feet six inches to five
feet six inches long. Captain Williamson gave
me a stalk of Red Clover, which I measured by
placing my foot on one end, and, without
stooping, putting the flower bulb into my mouth.
The Timber is Beech, Sugar Maple, Hick-
ories, Butter-nut, Tulip or White-wood, Bass,
and Oak. In the Winter, the Sugar-tree and
the Bass are felled as fodder for cattle, which
will greedily eat the greater part of the smaller

AGRICULTURE.

branches, i. o. as thick as a man's wrist. — Cool,
pleasant, bracing weather.

i r 1 •

Sunday, July 13th.

Evening, ride as yesterday ; tea at Mr. and
Mrs. MuUender's, from the neighbourhood of
Morpeth, where Mr. M. was an Innkeeper,
and failed. Knowing Captain Williamson, he
came out to the Genesee, who gave him thirty
acres of Land, on which he lives happily and
comfortably; has six children, one girl well
married in the neighbourhood — are a neat, in-
dustrious, and worthy family. — ^Weather as
yesterday.

Monday, July 14th.

Morning, bathe in the Lake ; clear gravel ;
shelves quick. Evening, ride S. W. of Geneva,
three or four miles ; many thriving farms ; rich
lands. Flushed a Quail. — Weather as yes-
terday.

Tuesday, July 15th.

Messrs. Carr and Calais set out for Georire-
town, Maryland ; three hundred miles. Wea-
ther somewhat warmer. Evening, thunder-gust.

HOPETOWN MILLN.

Wednesday, July I6th.

5 A. M. Started with Captain WiiliatnRon,
for Bath; same time, Mr. Johnstone and Mr.
Scott set out to examine a Salt Spring of
Captain Williamson's, lately discovered near
Seneca River, fifteen miles to the N. of Cayuga.
Saw reapers employed on a field of Wheat,
near the Lake ; thus has the harvest commenced.

Hopetown, twelve miles. Towers's Tavern ;
breakfast; neat, attentive. This village con-
tains about twelve families ; dry situation,
half a mile from the Lake, and near to the
Creek by which the Seneca Lake receives the
waters of the Crooked Lake. Twelve miles and
a half, Hopetown-mills, erected by Captain
Williamson; large, well-built, fine situation;
the grist-mill contains four pair of stones. The
miller, Mr. , is from Greta Bridge, York-
shire, Great Britain. Curious Limestone- Rock
near the mills, resembling the ruinous wall of
a fortress. Met Mr. Dana and Mr. Cuyler,
on their way to Geneva; had left Bath that
morning. Eighteen miles, passed through the
Friend's Settlement ; their Spiritual Guide,
Jemima Wilkinson, is now without influence
and popularity, — the Settlers here preferring to
raise Wheat, to raising subscriptions for " the
friend."

1' l.V M S T A V K RN.

I i». M. Plum's Tavern, twenty-six miles t
(lined in neat Log-house; attentive people. -
Thirty-two miles, Crooked Lake to the \V,
and Mud Lake to the E. ; both in sight. Our
situation was one of the most elevated in the
United States, or even in North America; as
the waters of Crooked Lake, uniting with those
discharged by the Seneca, Cayuga, Oneida and
Ontario Lakes, reaches the Ocean by the River
and Gulph of St. Lawrence; whilst on the other
hand, Mud Lake is one of the head waters of
the Susquehanna, the great feeder of the Ches-
apeak; and at a very inconsiderable distance
to the S. W. is one of the head branches of the
Alleghany River, which, joining its waters with
the Ohio, the Missisippi, and the still more con-
siderable river, the Misouri, mixes with the
Ocean in the Gulph of Mexico. So that this
highly favoured District has water communi-
cations with New York by the Mohawk and
the Hudson Rivers; with Baltimore by the
Susquehanna River and the Chesapeak Bay;
with Montreal and Quebec by Lake Ontario
and the River St. Lawrence ; and there is a
prospect of an easy communication being opened
with Philadelphia by the waters of the Dela-
war, and with New Orleans by those of the
Ohio.

7 p. M. Bartless Mills and Tavern, thirty-

t ;

i!*i^

FREDERICK TOW N.

seven miles. Supped and slept. Mosquitoes
troublesome. These Mills are situated on Mud
Creek, near its outlet from the Lake. A village
was laid out here by the name of Frederick-
town; three or four houses only were built,
when it was found necessary to relinquish the
further progress of the Settlement, as the mill-
dam had thrown so much backwater on the
place as endangered the health of the inhabit-
ants. Mr. Bartles is well supplied from the
Creek with fish ; and the Indians, who regu-
larly encamp near his mill every winter, take
care to keep their friend well supplied with
venison.

As we went the horse-road from Geneva to
Hopetown, we in that distance saw only one or
two small clearances ; the carriage road is
settled aln\ost in its whole extent, though the
land is no better in quality, but preferred from
its laying further from the Lake, the immediate
vicinity of which was by the first Settlers
thought unhealthy : experience has proved it
otherwise, so that in a short time, the lands now
neglected will be considered as most valuable ;
though for the first twelve miles we skirted
Seneca Lake, we seldom got a glimpse of it,
80 compact are the woods. After passing
through the Friends' Settlement, we met with
no other till within a mile of Bartles's; for

BARTLES S TAVERN.

Plum's is merely a station established by Cai>-
tain Williamson for the accommodation of
travellers. We kept the horse-path to within
seven miles of Bartles's, when we fell in with
the carriage-road. — ^The woods were chiefly
Beech and Sugar Maple, intermixed with Bass,
(Lime or Linden) Hickories, Oak, and Walnut.
&c. Now and then, on high land. Oak pre-
dominated. Saw a Bald Eagle, Red-headed
Wood-peckers, a few Blackbirds and Robins;
two black, one red and a few Ground Squirrels.
The road very good for horses. — Pleasant mo-
derate weather.

Thursday, July 17th,

Started 5 a. m. Accompanied by Mr. Bartles.
This gentleman has lately opened a very pro-
fitable business with Baltimore, for flour and
lumber, the produce of his own estate and mills ;
these are shipped at his own door, in arks,
which have eleven miles of descent before Mud
Creek unit^is with the Conhocton, a branch of
the Tioga, which is itself the north branch of
the Susquehanna.

Mr. Bartles builds his arks seventy feet by
sixteen ; their draft from eighteen inches to
two feet. In one of these arks Mr. B. sent
twelve hundred bushels of Wheat ; it would

■ ■!

BARTLESS MILLS.

with equal ease have taken eighteen hundred
bushels or upwards of fifty tons ; a thousand
bushels is about thirty tons. Two hands will
build one of these arks in a fortnight. Mr. B.'s
were built by his sons. The materials are his
own, and at hand j they are sold for lumber
either at Havre de Grace or at Baltimore for
about thirty dollars, which is somewhat more
than the expense of construction. Persons not
having conveniences for building arks, may
have them constructed for one dollar for every
foot in length ; those, therefore, that I have
been describing, could have been sold to profit
for seventy dollars each. Four hands will navi-
gate one of these arks in five or seven days to
Havre de Grace, a distance of three hundred
and fifty miles, being the mouth of the Sus-
quehanna; from whence, by the Chesapeak
and the Patapsco, to Baltimore, is about seventy
miles farther. Mr. Bartles's flour was esteemed
the best ever inspected in Baltimore ; his Pine
(White) boards were engaged at two dollars per
one hundred feet, he received only one dollar
and sixty-six two-third cents. He complains of
this ill usage — this unmercantile transaction,
and with reason. This greediness of the mer-
chant most generally defeats its own purpose ;
it turns the trade into a different channel.
Rather than be imposed upon a second time,

BATH.

Mr. B. will have a lumber-yard, and retail his
own boards ; or will himself ship them to the
West Indies. Forty-live miles ; crossed Mud
Creek at its junction with the Conhocton.

Fifty-one miles ; Captain Williamson's Farm,
and New Houses ; fine flats and the Conhoc-
ton to the S. ; a small Lake to the N.

9 A. M. Bath, fifty-two miles ; first eight miles
on the E. side of Mud Creek, through White
Pine, Hemlock, Oak, Yellow Pine, &c. The
White Pine exceeded any that I had yet seen;
many of them were upwards of two hundred
feet in length. Mr. B. had measured one, when
a log, two hundred and two feet, being probably
the tallest Trees of their kind, and the loftiest
in the world. Country mountainous, embo-
soming small Lakes ; the ridges covered to
their summits with thick woods, especially Oak
and Hemlock. First six miles the road exe-
crable, full of deep, r liry holes. After passing
Mud Creek, the road, following on its N. side
the course of the Conhocton, was tolerably
good ; here the Timber was principally Scrub
Oak, intermixed with Yellow Scrub Pine : this
degeneracy of the wood is owing to its being
annually burnt by the Indians ; the destructive
mode of clearing a passage through the woods,
and rousing the game, is now put a stop to,
nothing being more destnu^tlve to tiie soil —

BATH.

fi!

impoverished by its richest particles being burnt
and evaporated. Near Bath, met two emigrating
families on their way to Niagara. Their intention
is to seek shelter under the British Government
from the tyranny of that of the United States !
•' We fought seven years to get rid of taxation,
" and now we are taxed more than ever !" —
" D — n my eyes," said one of the sons of Free-
" dom, " was we now to have another war with
" England, if I would act like so d — d a fool
" as I did the last !"— " How like a fool, friend?"
" How ! why d — n me, to fight against them !" —
These families were from the disaffected counties
of Pennsylvania, the scene of the last insurrec-
tion. Hundreds of them have removed, are
removing, and will remove, into Upper Canada,
where tliey will form a nest of vipers in the
bosom that now so incautiously fosters them,
and in which they will infix their deadly fangs
the moment they can do it with impunity.
This consequence I do not hesitate to predict ;
for as I never saw u bad subject make a good
citizen, so neither do I believe a bad citizen
can make a good subject. It is not theybrm of
Government that such as these quarrel with, but
with Government itself; — with them, restraint,
however mild, is oppression — law, injustice.

On our arrival at Bath, we were much sur-
prised to find that Mr. Dana and Mr. Cuyler

^:'l'

BATH.

had got there before us, having nearly rode
twice the distance that we did in about the
same time — that is, ninety-two miles in twenty-
eight hours. They consideral)ly shortened their
journey by leaving Mr. Bartles's to the E. A
new road is however cutting from Bartles's
Mills to Bath, which will save six miles ih
fifteen.

Bath, which now contains about forty fami-
lies, w?s laid out in 1792, the same year that
Captain Williamson forced a passage to this, till
then, unknown country, through a length of wil-
derness which the oldest and most experienced
woodmen could not be tempted to assist him to
explore, — tempted, too, by an offer of more than
five times the amount of their usual wages.
Captain Williamson was then accompanied by
his lend and relation, Mr. Johnstone, and a
servant : afterwards a backwoodsman was pre-
vailed on to join the party.

It was not till 1795 that this country could
supply its inhabitants with food, for till then,
their flour was brought from Northumberland,
and their pork from Philadelphia ; yet so ra-
pidly has the spirit of improvement gone forth
in this country — so suddenly has plenty burst
forth, where so late was famine — and so quick
the change of scene from dark-tangled forests,
(whoso death-like silence yielded but to the

't\\

n A T H.

.( i

growl of bears, the howl of wolves, and the
yell of savages) to smiling fields, to flocks and
herds, and the busy hum of men ; that instead of
being indebted to others for their support, they
will henceforth annually supply the low country,
Baltimore es^tecially, with many hundred bar-
rels of flour^ and head of cattle.

On Captain Williamson's first arrival, where
now is Bath, he built a small loghut for his
wife and family ; if a stranger came to visit him,
he built up a little nook for him, to put his bed
in. In a little time a boarded or frame-house
was built to the left of the hut ; this also was
intended but as a temporary residence, though
it then appeared a palace. His present resi-
dence, a very commodious, roomy, and well-
planned house, is situated to the right of where
stood the hut — long consigned to the kitchen
fire. Mr. Dana and myself each occupy two
rooms in the old house ; here also Captain Wil-
liamson has his offices : some of the servants
sleep above. To the S. front of *he house is
the garden, about two acres, aburidantly pro-
ductive of vegetables and melons. The fruit
trees are yet too young to yield, but their con-
dition is thriving.

Bath is situated in a small valley, watered
by the Conhocton, running at the foot of a
mountainous ridge, which shuts in the valley to

BATH.

the S. ; this ridge is high and steep, and clothed
with wood to its summit. Bath is the capital of
Steuben County, which County contains at pre-
sent about three hundred families. On the first
settlement of the county, these mountainous
districts were thought so unfavourably of, when
compared with the rich flats of Ontario County,
that none of the settlers could be prevailed
upon to establish themselves here, till Captain
Williamson himself set the example, saying,
" As Nature has done so much for the North-
" ern Plains, I will do something for these
" Southern Mountains ;" — though the truth of
the case was, that Captain Williamson saw very
clearly on this his first visit to the country, that
the Susquehanna, and not the Mohawk, would
be ultimately its best friend. Even now it has
proved so ; for at this day a bushel of wheat is
better worth one hundred cents at Bath, than
sixty cents at Geneva. This difference will
grow wider every year ; for little, if any, addi-
tional improvement can be made in the water
communication with New York, whilst that to
Baltimore will admit of very extensive and ad-
vantageous ones. Its present efforts are those
of a child, compared with the manly strength
it will soon assume.

Cuyler breakfasted and dined with us ; he
has established himself here as a Lawyer.

(

BATH.

Dana, a nephew of Sir William Pulteney s, is
from Shrewsbury. Captain Williamson has two
children : Ann, nine years old ; Alexander,
about seven. — Weather somewhat wanner than
yesterday.

Friday, July 18th.

5 A. M. Bathed in the Creek ; accompanied
Captain Williamson to the Farm. During our
ride Captain Williamson stopped his horse and
asked me if I heird any thing? I answered
that I heard what 1 considered to be the warning
of a Rattle-Snake; it was the first time that 1
had ever heard one ; the sound was very audi-
ble. We dismounted and killed the Snake. I
cut off the rattle which had six joints. Captain
Williamsons Farm occupies the greater and
best part of the valley in which Bath is situated ;
well watered by the Creek, and a remarkably
strong spring, supposed the outlet of the
Lake. This Farm likewise contains a very
rich marl, and in great quantity — an excellent
compost for the uplands : the flats are too rich
probably ever to require it, more especially as
benefiting from the overflowing of the Creek.
Here Captain Williamson has built an excellent
mansion-house, much superior to the one at

BATH.

Bath, and wliich he proposes as his future
residence: the plan is original, Captain Wil-
liamson being his own architect. I have seen
no plans for dwelling houses — for country dwel-
ling houses, that I would more readily adopt
than Captain Williamson's ; this is a single
house, with two stories and wings. The Ame-
ricans have a great antipathy to wings; they
invariably hold to the ^^ solid column^'' the cellar-
kitchens, and the dormar windows. Such the
Government House in New York , — such the
President's House in Philadelphia, and in the
Federal City; — and such the two capitals of
Colombia and of Richmond.

Captain Williamson's people were principally
employed in haymaking, under the inspection
of Mr. Morrison, his intelligent manager. One
of the mowers, a young Englishman, of the
name of Wilkinson, wishing to settle in Ame-
rica, was permitted to come out on condition of
his serving a farmer one year as a labourer, after
which his father, a respectable yeoman, pro-
mised to honor his bills for a thousand pounds
sterling. The youth had great luck in meeting
with Captain Williamson ; and I have no doubt
that in the course of six or eight years he will
possess one of the most flourishing farms in
the Genesee.

Captain Williamson has very considerable

i\ ATH.

Hi' <'

'-.if.

Stock in Horses and Oxen, of good breeds ;
he shewed me a mare and filly, for which he
had refused nine hundred dollars ; five hundred
for the filly. This farm, to speak <) la Biuwn,
possesses great capabilities; amongst others,
an excellent tra( for a deer-park. i- <<

Visited Captaui Williamson's mills, a little
west of Bath, on the Creek, which before the
■winter sets in, is supposed will be made navi-
gable fifteen miles higher up ; at least, a fiirmer
there promises to exert himself to send an ark
down from thence in the spring. Should he
succeed, Captain Williamson promises him a
gift of thirty acres of land. The navigation of
the Susquehanna will then extend to within six
miles of Canadarqua Lake. — Very sultry.

itf

|!{

:'. B I:

Saturday, July 19th.

Bathed in the Lake ; form a circle — half a
mile, perhaps less, in diameter ; neither inlet nor
outlet ; not fathomable, at least great depth of
line has been sunk to no purpose — supposed the
mouth of a volcano. Dana and Cuyler saw a
strange jiih — two fore-feet or paws — goggling
eyes ! — a young mermaid perhaps ! — or an imp
escaped from hell !

Evening accompanied Cuyler to give Mr. Pat-
terson, of the Painted Post, the meeting at the

'ISJ'^'I

MUD CREEK.

(57

junction of the Mud and the Conhocton Creeks.
This Mud Creek, by the bye, is as clear as
crystal ; so is Mud Lake. Mr. Patterson is
the only person possessed of a Seine-net for
many a mile round ; this net he brought with
him. At the first haul we took twenty-two
Oswego Bass, two Suckers, and one Perch;
second haul, seventeen Bass, two Suckers, and
one Perch ; the third haul was unsuccessful.
The Oswego Bass, or Susquehanna Salmon, is
shaped somewhat like a Trout, those we caught
weighing on an average three lbs. each. Mr. P.
has taken one which weighed eleven lbs.; a
person present saw one weighing sixteen lbs. ;
are only found in the head waters of the Sus-
quehanna, feed on Trout, delicious eating, most
resembling Pike in taste and colour. After all,
this Oswego Bass is the Pickerel or Poisson-
dor6 of Canada! — Bathed in the evening. —
Fine pleasant day.

Sunday, July 20th.

Bathed in the Creek. Succession of heavy
showers throughout the day.

Monday, July 21st. ■

Our whole family formed a cavalcade on the

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0 IS

I.I

^ m

2.5
2.2

i;£ illlM

1.8

1.25 1.4 1.6

►

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

SOUTHERN RIUGE.

N. W. road leading to Danswille, on Canan-
seraga Creek, a "water of the Genesee River.
^4 Alexander, as well as his sister, were of the
party; he, as bold as Nimrod, was mounted
on a Scotch Grey, nine hands or less, in height.
The pony was so small that I easily stood across
him with both feet flat to the ground.

Afternoon, Dana and I climbed with much
difficulty the summit of the southern ridge;
found it very steep and lofty, and heavily tim-
bered, chiefly Hemlock. Mosquitoes were trou-
blesome, and we received no little annoyance
from fallen and rotten trees, and the young
Hemlock through which we had to brush our
way. The summit was tolerably flat, but we were
prevented by the foliage from getting the viewe
we went in quest of. After scrambling half a
mile or more along the ridge, we descended
from its highest pitch by an almost perpendi-
cular wolf-track ; (at least so we thought it)
forded the Creek as best way to get home. —
Cool pleasant wind.

. /

Tuesday, July 22d.

;'i..;i.

Morning, bathe ; Cuyler shewed me a stem
of Sicily Wheat ; also a stalk of Genesee Wheat,
containing thirty stems and heads, all from one
seed. Sky overcast.

SNAKES.

Wednesday, July 23d.

Gave Cuyler a day's work in his hay-field ;
so did Dana — we had warm work of it : our
delicate hands were soon blistered. Last Sum-
mer I could not meet the sun without a white
hat and umbrella, whilst on this scorching day
of a much warmer season than the last, I am
working all day in the hay-field — in a black
hat, too! — Ann and her little brother took
care to supply us with cans of good beer, for
they seemed to think us meritoriously employed,
and worthy of our hire. No inhabitant of this
country would think it worth notice, that
Cuyler found two rattlesnakes in the grass, one
of which he killed. Few persons here but
would rather attack a Rattle-Snake than a wasp.
The Rattle-Snake is frequently used for food,
and said to be good eating ; I had no opportu-
nity of making the trial, although I had the
inclination to do so. It would appear that the
venemous Snakes only are used for food. The
Hog certainly prefers the Rattle-Snake to all
others ; and I did not learn that the Indians eat
any except the Rattle-Snake. In England, the
Viper, or Adder, is the only Snake used for
making broth for invalids, and is the only poi-
sonous Snake we have. That poisonous Snakes
are alone used for food, I should attribute to

SNAKES. '-

their being free from that most fetid odor which
appears to be the protection of the harmless tribe
of Snakes. Let any one irritate a common
Snake, and he will soon subject himself to a
most unpleasant effluvia. The Snake casts its
skin invertedly, as a tight stocking is drawn off
the leg. The outer coat of the eye is removed
along with the skin, fixed in it as glass in spec-
tacles, and is perfectly transparent. I possess a
skin cast by a small English Snake, from which
this description is taken. Evening — Bathe —
Warm day.

Thursday, July 24th.

.*,4,

Dana and I again assisted Cuyler in his hay-
field : the day was however so hot and close,
that we felt no disposition to return in the after-
noon. Our shoulders, necks and backs were
very sorely scorched by the sun. — Very hot
day, and sultry evening. The motive that in-
duced Dana and I to assume the character of
hay-makers was, that Cuyler could get no la-
bourers. He offered half his crop to any one
who would harvest for him the other half.

At Geneva, much damage was done by light-
ning. At the head of Canadarqua Lake, a man
was struck dead whilst felling a tree : the tree
first received the lightning, then the axe, much
of which was melted.

AGRICULTURE.

Friday, July 25th.

;, u •;. 1 i.!t<;i ,••1 »

My servant Lewis got drunk and behaved
like a madman ; got my foot strained. Captain
Williamson staid this day longer at Bath on
my, or rather, on my foot's account. — ^Very
sultry. Thermometer 91°.

Saturday, July 26th. ''...'.

Arose 4 a. m. Went into the garden in search
of humming-birds ; saw three or four of these
little winged fairies.

6 A. M. Captain Williamson and I set out
for Geneva ; we were to be accompanied part
of the way by Cuyler and Judge Kersey.

9 a.m. Capt. Pratt's, nine miles ; this gen-
tleman purchased half a township — twelve thou-
sand acres. Knocked down the first tree in the
Spring of 1799. By the Autumn following, he,
with the assistance of three hands and three
yoke of oxen, had put one hundred and eight
acres in Wheat ! Incredible industry ! Himself
near sixty, and his son, a lad of fifteen, did a
fourth part of this work. The land was very
heavily timbered, and some time was necessa-
rily dedicated to the building of a log-house
and stable, and in procuring provisions for the
men, and food for the oxen : this district too,

ii'<

W ATKI N8T0 W N.

without roads and neighbours. In preparing
new land for Wheat in this country, no plough
is used. After the logs are burnt, the harrow is
passed two or three times slightly OTer the field,
the grain is then sown, yet I never saw finer
Wheat than this of Oapt. Pratt's. I have seen it
ranker; it will, however, at least, average
twenty-five bushels per acre, even on the highest
and worst piece of land in his whole purchase.
The Wheat is fully ripe; on Monday, Captain
Pratt will apply the sickle to it. Next Summer
he will have probably two hundred tons of Hay
from the same land, as Timothy and Red
Clover were sown over the Wheat on the snow.
He has also a large quantity of land prepared
for receiving Wheat, and a field of Rye, which
he put in last Spring. He has built a large barn
and a saw-mill, on a branch of the Conhocton,
which may easily be rendered navigable to
Bath. Some time has been employed on the
roads. 1 have been thus particular respecting
Captain Pratt, as I believe no other settler ever
accomplished so much with such slender means.

Cross the five-mile Creek, the main naviga-
ble branch of the Conhocton : in this bottom
are some of the richest lands of the State.
£nter Ontario County. ,;, .,> ■: , r?

3i P. M. Watkinstown, or Middletown,
twenty two miles, three miles from the head of

W A T K I N a T O W N.

Caaadarqua, Lake. The Tavern i» a house in
whieh filth and, famine strive for mastepyi
Leonora, vtsho catered for Gil Blaa' thieves,
must have been a decent body compared to
our hostess, who for our dinner hashed up the
scrapings and fragments of other mens' ph&tes,
or rather a wooden tray, out of which we were
all obliged to eat. " Marry^ Sir,, shes all grease;
" and I know not what use to put her to, but to
" make a lamp of her, and run from her by her
" own light. I warrant, her rags, and the tallow
'* in them, will bum a Poland winter: if she
" lives till Doomsday, she'll burn a week longer
'* than the whole world." This was decidedly the
dirtiest house in which 1 ever was in any country.
It was certainly an exception from the general
habits of this people. With attention to clean-
liness, the family might have lived in a very
enviable manner ; they had provisions in abund-
ance, and the neighbourhood was well stocked
with game and fish. I went to bed in my gloves
and boots. The cheese dropped fatness upon
us as we sat in the hall. Though settled here
many years on an excellent farm, we could not
get any one article we had a right to look for ;
neither fish, flesh, nor fowl ; — neither eggs, nor
milk, nor vegetables. Our glasses might pass
for dirty horn; they would require boiling in
soapsuds and scraping, ere it could be guessed

WATKINSTOWN.

what they were made of. Our scraps were the
last remains of a fine buck, killed yesterday by
the host and his hay-makers with scythes and
bludgeons. It is supposed he had been chased
by wolves, as he was almost spent when he
crossed the hay field.

This Settlement contains about ten houses,
whose owners are all Captains, Majors, and
Colonels, living on the produce of the neigh-
bouring flats : the valley contains about three
thousand acres of very excellent land, worth
about thirty dollars per acre. Little Hay was
yet made, though not an acre of grass that was
not fit to cut ; the Rye was all got in, and the
Wheat ready for the sickle. The farmers in
this country let their Grass and Grain stand too
long; — better three days before ripe, than three

after. 1»1 i>SJtl •>lV,l\ lAy'. u V'.IUI,'* •nt .■■•» -::-ii

Sunday, July 27th. ,^ ■ .^^ j,, ,^ ^^.^,,^ ■^^^^.

" Having slept not only with all my clothes on,
but even in my boots and gloves, — so filthy was
the bed, — I left my room at day-light, and went
to a neighbour's house to knock up the Judge
(Kersey) though Captain Williamson was him-
self here best knovm as " the Judge f" thence to
Captain Metcalf s to rouse Captain Williamson
and Cuyler. What a contrast was here when

FLINT CREEK.

>y
id

d
1-
ie
;h

IS
IS

compared to the Tavern where I slept ; though
in appearance a mean-looking log-house, yet
within, it was clean, and the beds good, the
floors bright, and the furniture, pots and pans
burnished and dazzling. ^ -,- '^ .' — .

5^ A. M. Mounted our nags ; crossed the
flats ; lost our way in looking for a private path
across the mountains, by which we were to save
ten miles ; got directions ; ascended and de-
scended a steep and high mountain to Arm-
strong's, on Flint Creek. Thirty-one miles;
good breakfast ; people clean and obliging. The
road from Pennsylvania to Canadarqua is to
pass through these flats. To induce the Settlers
here to undertake the making of this road, im-
mediately after the harvest, was the object of
Captain Williamson and the Judge in coming
this route. ' '

Mr. Armstrong gave me a large rattle of ten
joints, lately taken from a Rattle-Snake which
had bit his brother. On receiving the bite the
youtii tied a string very tight round his leg, a
little above the wound ; for this purpose a withe
of the bark of white ash is the best, as it infal-
libly prevents the poison ascending beyond it.
He then went home and cut out a piece of flesh
from his leg where the fangs had enteretj,
squeezed out the blood, and put salt and indigo
into the wound, over which he held a piece of

HOPETO W N.

the flesh of the Rattle-Snake ; m^hen this grew
putrid, which it did in a few minutes, he ap-
plied a fresh piece, till he had used up all the
Snake. For a few hours his leg continued
swelled, and much yellow matter oozed from
the wound ; he was however enabled to go to
his work the second day.

Mrs. Armstrong informed us of a monstrous
large horn found by a neighbour, and some
large teeth, which her husband had lately
found. — " Where are they? Let's see them?" —
** Nay, my husband did not think them worth
" bringing home, they're yet in the field." —
We sent the man for them, who returned with
only three of the teeth.

None present knew any animal to which such
teeth might belong. Captain Williamson pur-
poses, after harvest, to dig about the place where
these teeth were found, in hopes of further dis-
coveries. Thirty-seven miles, Judge Kersey and
Cuyler turned off for Bath. Thirty-nine miles.
Judge Potter's ; handsome house, extensive
farm ; having a considerable district remaining
of the thirty-six thousand acres he originally
purchased. Hopetown, Tower's Tavern, forty-
seven miles ; good dinner.

10 p. M. Hotel, Geneva ; fifty-nine miles.
There were no cleared lands from Bath to
within two miles of Watkinstown, save Cap-

AGRICULTURE.

tain Pratt's ; country, a succession of ridges,
long and gradual ascents ; horse-path only, until
we enter Ontario County; Soil excellent in the
intervals, and the whole good Wheat Land,
even to the top of all the ridges ; little inferior,
if any so, to that under culture by Captain
Pratt. Well Timbered ; noticed principally the
Beech, Sugar Maple, Oak, Hickories, Chesnut,
Hemlock, Bass, Tulip-tree, Ironwood with hop-
like blossom. Dogwood, and a few Elms, &c. ;
Beech most abounded, then Sugar Maple, and
numerous plants and flowers ; Maiden-hair in
abundance. Shewn the best antidote for the bite
of a rattlesnake ; these antidotes are numerous.
The plant I was now presented with I do not
recollect having before seen. It was Solomon's
Seal. Saw only one Bird, a young Thrush, if
I except the red-headed Woodpecker, which is
always to be met with. Passed bear-traps set
by the Indians. This country much infested
by Bears and Wolves. Deer very plentiful.

The country from Watkinstown much like
that already passed, to Flint Creek ; then more
level and richer soil to Judge Potter's ; from Pot-
ter's to Geneva, one continued succession of Set-
tlements. On Flint Creek saw young pigeons,
the first flight yet seen by any of our company ;
passed close by a cock pheasant — took it for a
barn-door hen ; a kind of ruff round its neck is

FLINT CREEK.

its principal difference; in no way like an English
pheasant. 'Tis said that pheasants, similar to
the European pheasant, are to be met with in
Upper Canada : also hares, similar to the
European ones.

Mr. Johnstone shewed us a bottle of water he
had brought from the Salt Spring. The brine
was very strong, and the smell somewhat like
Harrogate water. Mr. J. found on trial that it
contained one-sixteenth of its own weight of
pure Salt. The Spring is in a marsh on the
banks of Seneca River, ten miles north of
Cayuga. What is somewhat extraordinary, the
Spring rises from the bottom of a fresh water
marshy so that the bottle was obliged to be sunk
ten feet through the fresh to get at the salt
water. Captain Williamson proposes imme-
diately to establish a Salt-work on this spot,
where he will have many advantages over the
Onondaga works : as, no tax to the State, less
expense in fuel, provisions, &c. being on a na-
vigable river, and nearer the market. He will
carry on the works too, with more system, and
on abetter plan.

ll'V

^1t

Monday, July 28th. -.,,.'

Bathed. Captain Williamson gave me some
si)ecimens of Oats and Barley grown near

AGRICULTURE.

Geneva ; they are (he best I have seen in
America, and perhaps equal to any that I have
seen in Bngland. He presented me also with
a map of the Genesee, and others, including
the neighbouring States and part of Canada,
and some papers respecting the Genesee. —
Warm day; thermometer 88<*.

■■//

Tuesday, July 29th. 'f m i. »..».:

' ■>
Warm; very warm. — Thermometer 90°. „.

Wednesday, July 30th.

•-;-•'; 'I

Bathe. Warm to suffocation. — Ther. 92<*.

Thursday, July 31st. <• ^ •'

Bathed. Mr. Johnstone shewed me some
stems of Wheat, each containing the Hessian
Fly, in a grub or nymph state, in the joint
nearest the ground. Introduced by Mr. Hallet
to his sister, Mrs. Colt. Though the Thermo-
meter was 94}° owing to a fine breeze, the heat
was more supportable than yesterday.

Friday, August 1st. '

Sky overcast ; cold, and every appearance
of rain.

HOPETO W N.

Saturday, August 2d.

•.n.i

IJIJM

f-MV

^:;/,'

' Clear, cool, and pleasant. Bathed. Ther-
mometer 80**. Wrote to the Rev. Thomas El-
lison, Albany ; honored by Captain Williamson.
Gave Captain Williamson an introductory letter
to F. Maude, Wakefield. Afternoon, rode out
to S. W. a few miles ; most of the harvest
housed. Whortleberries at table ; the first this
season; brought to the hotel by an Indian;
those near Genesee still hard and green.

Sunday, August 3d. '

Capt. Williamson set out for Utica ; received
letter of introduction to Thomas Morris, Esq.
Canadarqua, from John Johnstone, Esq. Plea-
sant morning; close evening; heavy rain in
showers. Could distinctly perceive the pro-
gress of one of these showers across the Lake,
which it took three minutes to cross, a distance
of two miles.

Monday, August 4th. '

Mr. Johnstone set out for Utica. Evening
rode out five miles on road to " Friend's Settle-
ment ;" almost the whole of this distance, the
country cleared on each side of the road ; saw
a large Owl ; also a black Squirrel : these arc

S Q U I R R F. L 8.

larger than the English Red Squirrel, and much
longer in proportion to the height and thickness,
nearly approaching the shape of the Weasel.
The Red Squirrel of this part of the country is
however less than the English Squirrel : whilst
the grey Squirrel is at least six times as large,
and is very good eating ; might be mistook for
Rabbit. I have made many good dinners upon
them in my travels through the Western parts
of North Carolina and Virginia. Of these three
species of American Squirrels, the red and the
grey are rarely to be met with in the Genesee ;
the black Squirrels, on the contrary, are so
numerous, in particular seasons, that about
twelve months ago, ten young men of this place
agreed to have a Squirrel feast; they divided into
two bands of five each; took contrary directions
in the woods ; returned at an hour agreed upon
to an oAtertainment provided at the expense of
the party who had killed the fewest Squirrels ;
the number killed were three hundred, of which
number there were not one red, and but one
grey. Squirrel-feasts are very common in the
back Settlements of America, but in no part
more so than in Kentucky, where the grey
Squirrels are more numerous than even the
black Squirrel in the Genesee. In Kentucky,
the rule is, that no Squirrel is to count that is
not shot through the head with a rifle ball ; nor

SU LPHD R SPRING.

does it count if it has two wounds/ — Heavy
showers in the night ; morning, overcast; day,
clear, cool and pleasant. >» ;i. <.. i.; >u, ni ..,>,. , ;

Tuesday, August 5th. '"•'^'- "♦"''' •■••■•'?■'•■■..,,,.

Bathed ; went on board the Seneca Sloop of
forty tons.

9 A. M. Set out for the Sulphur Spring ; kept
company with Mr. Beekman the first seven
miles, when he took the right to Lyons and
Sodus, and I the left towards Canadarqua.
Nine miles, crossed Flint Creek over a good
planked bridge near its junction with the outlet
of Canadarqua Lake. Here are a set of Grist
and Saw Mills, but not sufficient water to work
them at present; passed through a grove of
Hemlock and White Pine ; the Timber was re-
markably fine, and must be very valuable in
this part of the country, where it is extremely
scarce. Twelve miles, reached the Sulphur
Spring, which my olfactory nerves had for some
time prepared me for the sight of; it breaks
ground in two or three different places, which.

'* Extract of a Letter from a Gentleman in Madison County,
Kentucky, dated Richmond, April 4, 1805:—" On counting the
«' Scalps yesterday, of a Squirrel Hunt in this County, there
•' were, including a few Crows' and Hawks' Scalps, eight tho«-
" sand eight hundred and fifly-seven produced on the ground*."

SULPHUR SPRING.

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St

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almost immediately uniting, expands as imme-r
diately over what appeared to be a rough
pavement of limestone, passing quickly off to
the marsh below, when it becomes almost stag-
nated. Trees grow not in this marsh, though
immediately around it — principally Maple anc
Dogwood. Mosquitoes were but few; coula
perceive no animalcule in the water, save a
small grub with six legs on the fore-part of its
body; had the legs been off, it would have
greatly resembled the grub found in fruit and
nuts. The water was clear as crystal, and in
taste exactly like Harrogate water; indeed I
believe it to be of that nature, though not so
strong.

Sulphur is said to have been found en masses
which, when analyzed by Dr. Priestley, pro-
duced ninety-six parts in a hundred of pure
Sulphur. After a diligent search of half an
hour, I was obliged to content myself with
such specimens as adhered to substances
washed by the water. I particularly selected
the skeletons of leaves whose muscles having de-
cayed, were supplied with Sulphur. This Spring
is about half way betwixt Geneva and Cana-
darqua, on what is called the Upper or North
Road, though nine miles out of the way, is
preferred in wet weather to the Lower Road,
which in rainy seasons is the worst piece of

■■

SULPHUR SPRING.

road between Albany and Niagara. I should
observe, that during the first seven miles, the
country is cleared on each side, and also for
the last three miles, though these Settlements
are only of two years' standing at the most.

Evening, walked to the Outlet of the Lake ;
flocks of Wild Ducks ; Kingfishers, different
from English Kingfishers, body lead-colour,
neck white, head long, with a crest. The
Outlet is not more than twenty yards in width,
very rapid and deep, expanding immediately
into a large bay. — Mr. Walsh arrived at the
Hotel this evening. — Weather clear, cool and
pleasant ; blanket necessary in the night. , , , {

.I't*.**

Wednesday, August 6th. ''

Introduced by Mr. Hallett to Mr. Morris, of
Canadarqua, and Mr. Yates, of Schenectady,
who arrived late last night at the Hotel. We
three breakfasted with Mr. Hallet and his sister
Mrs. Colt. Mentioning my ill success yester-
day in not being able to procure a specimen of
the Sulphur, I was informed that the bed of the
streeun, between the Spring head and the rocky
channel, was a mass of pure Sulphur, equal to
that sent to Dr. Priestley, of the depth of five or
six feet, or perhaps more, and exists in so soft
a state, that incautious persons have bogged

SENECA LAKE.

or
ts

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e
jr

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d

themselves in it breast-high. On the first dis-
covery of this Spring, numerous and curious pe-
trefactions were found in the channel ; amongst
the rest were hornets' and wasps' nests. Mr.
Morris found one of the fonner, which he has
preserved, ■i^'f}^'"^'''^ r"t?.;'!."rrrf^T,([->'^- ■■ : .n ..

Evening, rode out with M*i Hallet and Mr.
Rees to the £. side of the Lake, which, as well
as almost the whole of the Lake, is in Onon-
daga County. This is one of the most inte-
resting rides in the neighbourhood of Geneva,
and nothing but the supposed impracticability
of crossing the Outlet prevented my taking
it before* There is however a fording place,
which being known to Mr. Hallet, we got safely
over. We were now in Washington Township,
which was taken off from Romulus when that
encroached on the Oneida Reservation.

The best view of the Lake is immediately on
passing the Genesee line, when you open the
two points, called Long Point and Peach-
Offchapd. Poiht, beyond which the view of the
Lake is^ uninterrupted to the horizon. It is
pleasing to remark the great variety the same
prospect affords at different times of the day,
and in different states of the atmosphere. Yes-
terday, when I observed this prospect. Long
and Peach'-Orchard Points appeared directly
opposibe to each other ; they now appeared

SENECA LAKE.

agreeable to their real distance — that is, one,
eighteen, and the other thirty miles from our
present situation. Passed through tivo excellent
farms on the E. side of the Lake ; one of these,
which I had often noticed from the Hotel win-
dow, is as productive and skilfully managed as
any within the State of New York : on the se-
cond farm observed a field of hay-grasSy which
ought to have been cut some weeks ago ; also,
a pretty extensive nursery of fruit-trees. , ,

The lower part of the Lake is separated by a
narrow bank of gravel from a large extent of
marsh and swamp, both of which abound in
Wild Fowl, Snipes, Pheasants, Deer, and other
Game. Having a dog with us, he put up a
great many Ducks, and one Pheasant : the
Pheasant sprung into a neighbouring tree, from
whence he was dislodged with stones, though
not till he had received a warm cannonading
and a severe blow on his leg. Saw two of the
large black, red-headed Woodpeckers, the first
of this kind that I have seen in the Genesee.
Mr. H. pointed out to me the Tamarisk, which
Volney mentions as abounding so much in
Syria. I had frequently seen this tree in marshy
grounds, but bad supposed it the Willow. Mr.
Morris returned to Canadarqua this evening,
Mr. Walsh accompanying him on horseback. 1
mention horseback, as Mr. Walsh and the rest

GENEVA.

le,
ur
nt
3e,
in-
as
je-
ch

(0,

of the Albanians are so partial to their covered
waggons, that it is but on rare occasions they
will mount on horseback. Mr. Walsh came
hither from Albany in his waggon — literally a
waggon, a plain, simple, strong, marketing,
farmer's waggon. He performed the journey in
five days. Mr. Morris politely invited me to
take my abode with him when I visited Cana-
darqua. — This day cool and pleasant. , ...»

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in
ler
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n

Thursday, August 7th.

..'Vi i.i .V .> it ri,'.(Kf(:/,

This being the last day of my residence at
Geneva, I shall bring together such remarks and
information as I have been enabled to make and
collect respecting this Settleinent, and other
districts of the Genesee. ^ ' ,

Geneva is situated at the N. W. extremity of
Seneca Lake. It is divided into Upper and
Lower Town. The first establishments were
on the margin of the Lake, as best adapted to
business ; but Captain Williamson, struck with
the peculiar beauty of the elevated plain which
crowns the high bank of the Lake, and the
many advantages which it possessed as a site
for a Town, began here to lay out his Building
Lots, parallel with, and facing the Lake. These
lots are three quarters of an acre deep, and half
an acre in front, and valued at one hundred

GENEVA.

and fifty pounds, New York currency, (three
hundred and seventy-five dollars, or eighty-fi)ur
pounds, seven shillings and six-pence) each lot
One article in the agreement with Captain
Williamson is, thatno buildings shall be erected
on the £. side' of the street, that the view of
the Lake may be li^pt open. Those who pur-
chase a lot have also the option of purchasing
such land as lays between their lot and the
Lake, a convenience and advantage which I
suppose few will forego, the quantity not being
great, and consisting principally of the declivity
of the bank, which, for the most part, is not so
steep as unfits it for pasturage or gardens.

To give encouragement to this Settlement,
Captain Williamson built a very lai^ and hand-
some Hotel, and invited sm Englishman of the
name of Powell, to take the superintendance
of it. Captain Williamson has two rooms in
this Hotel appropriated to- himself; andi as he
resides here the greater part of the year, he
takes care that Powell does justice to the estab-
lishment, and' to his guests. From this cause it
is, that as it respects [H-ovisions, liquors, beds,
and stabling, there are few Inns in America
equal to the Hotel at Geneva. That part of the
town where the Hotel is situated, is in<^nded
for a public Square. At Mile-Point, a mile S.
of the Hotels Captain Williamson has built a

GENEVA.

M»

handsome brick house, intended for the resi-
dence of his brother, who had an intention of
establishing himself at Geneva^ g.^itH'^H ^^ii/>(>

In 1792, 'Geneva did tnot contain more than
three or four families,; but such is the beauty,
salubrity, and conveniency ofthis situation, that
it now consists of at least sixty families, an<i ra~
pidly receiving accessions, as the new buildings
get finished for their reception. There were at
this time settled at Geneva, Mr. and Mrs. Colt,
Messrs. Johnstone, Hallet, Rees, Bugart, and
Beekman : three of tthese gentlemen were law-
yers ; there were also two doctors, two store-
keepers, a blacksmith, shoemaker, tailor, hatter,
hairdresser, saddler, brewer, printer, watch-
maker, and cabinet-maker. A hat made entirety
of beaver is sold here for ten dollars (forty-five
shillings sterling.) • - <>

Geneva is supplied with water conveyed in
pipes from a neighbouring spring, and also by
wells. From the Lake the town is plentifully
supplied with a great variety of excellent fish.

Seneca Lake is forty-four miles long, and
from four to six miles wide. Its greatest depth
is not known ; the water is very clear and
wholesome ; the bottom, sand and gravel, with
a clear, sandy beach, like the sea-shore, and
consequently not infested with mosquitoes : it
however swarms in June and July with the

THP. GENESEE.

harmless may-fly. This fly is a great favourite
^ith the flsb, and has a peculiar property of
slipping off" its old skin, and flying ofl* \vith a
new one, leaving its old dress sticking to your
clothes, or any other substance that facilitates
its removal. ■-' ■••■'• .;-- <..o .

This Lake is navigated by a sloop of forty
tons, which runs as a packet, and carries on a
trade between Geneva and Catherine-town, at
the head of the Lake.

Captain Williamson is now building a sail-
boat, with a jumping keel lee-board, a new in-
vention, the keel itself acting as a lee-board,
and so contrived as to slide, or Jump into a box
fitted for its reception the instant it strikes
ground. Its design is as a lee-board to prevent
upsetting, and its jumping-keel is to adapt it to
shallow water. The climate in the Genesee is
less variable than on the sea-coast. In Sum-
mer, the days are frequently very warm, but the
nights are cool ; in Winter, the frost is not so
intense, but more steady, the snow laying
longer. »• < , .

From a Meteorological Register, kept at
Geneva, from Sept. 6th, 1799, to January 30th,
1800, I observed that the warmest day during
this period, was the 12th of September, when
the Thermometer at 1 p. m. was at 80** 30",
the wind S. W. and clear weather ; the coldest

ONTARIU COUNTY.

day was the Itith of December, when at 9 a.m.
the Thermometer was at 6" wind N. and clear
weather. The day following the Thermometer
had risen to 39^ wind S. and snow — a differ-
ence of 23** in . twenty-four hours, being the
greatest difference in any twenty-four hours
from September the 6th to the 30th of January
following. The first fail of snow was on the
17th of October, wind N.W. and Thermometer
35^. On the 5th of December the snow fell
eight inches ; S. wind ; Thermometer 34^. On
the 15th it fell six inches ; the wind N. £.
Thermometer 27^. And on the 30th it fell
eight inches; the wind N.W. Ther.30". The
Indian Summer began November 3d ; clear
N. W. wind. Thermometer 33° to 47».

Ontario County is gently undulated ; the
ridges run N. and S. This country abounds
in Lakes and Streams. Although but a very
small part of the Seneca and the Crooked Lakes
come witliin its boundaries, it contains the
whole of Canadarqua Lake and four smaller
ones. Its principal Stream is the Genesee River,
which disembogues itself into Lake Ontario,
the northern boundary of the Genesee. Its
other Streams are the Rundigut, Flint, and
Salmon Creeks. . i; n

The soil is very generally a rich, black, vege-
table mould, producing, in great perfection,

r B L O M F I K L I).

Oats, Barley, Wheat, Clover, and Timotliy.
The Grain is cradled, the sickle being too
tedious. Provisions are plentiful : good cheeue
is made at the Friends' Settlemr \t. The country
where cleared, is very healthy. • *- ><» ■

From exact Registers kept by the Supervisors
and Assessors of the different Townships, it
appears, that the County of Ontario contained
in 1799, twelve thousand two hundred /ree in-
habitants, and the whole number of deaths
amounted to ninety-seven.

Bloom field, the most populous Township,
contained one thousand eight hundred and
thirty-six inhabitants ; of these, three only died ;
one was a person of seventy years of age, who
died of an intermittent fever — the others were
infants, one dying of a sore throat, the other at
ten months' old, and had never been well. In
five other Townships, whose total population
amounted to one thousand six hundred and
sixty, two only died, one of whom was sixty
years of age, the other seventy. During the
whole time that I have been in the Genesee, I
have not seen an instance of the intermitting,
or any other fever. The insalubrity of the
Genesee was however proverbial, and the inter-
mittent fever, or in common parlance, the fever
and ague, was, when speaking of this district,
called the Genesee fever. My friends earnestly

H T t U E N COUNTY.

try

DIS

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ire
at
In
on
id

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I

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le

cautioned me against sleeping otie night in the
Genesee, if avoidable ; and ft lady o^ m v ac-
quaintance put up for me a few doses ul Dr.
James's Powders, which if does not appear
that I shall have occasion for. . v, ^„i ,

• Stuben County is very much broken, being a
constant succession of high hills and deep nar-
row vallies, consequently not so generally pro-
ductive as Ontario ; but as its streams permit
of an uninterrupted water communication with
Baltimore, by means of the Susquehanna, it
has the advantage of Ontario County, in pos-
sessing a better market for its produce, or in
being nearer the best market.

Near the margin of the Lake in the Town of
Geneva, there is a Butter-nut Tree, on which
Nature has ingrafted a Sugar Tree : indeed
they bear such equal proportion to each other,
that it is difficult to say which is the original
Tree. A severe wound on a horse of mine was
cured by the Water- Pepper Plant (Persicaria.)

The brickmakers use oxen to tread or temper
their clay : they are often used for treading out
the grain from Wheat. In riding through the
woods of the Genesee, I was much struck in
seeing trunks or stems of trees standing erect,
as they grew, and their upper part cut off with
an axe, but considerably higher than was possi-
ble for any man to reach. This enigma (for

CANAUARUUA.

such 1 considered it) was thus explained : —
The Tree had been blown down across the
I'oad, and part cut off to clear the way again ;
the root, then, by its weight, overbalanced the
trunk attached to it, and recovered its original
situation. Those roots will be often twelve or
more feet in diameter, having a great weight of
earth attached to them. The trees of this part
of the country have no tap-roots, not even the
Oaks, and are easily blown over. The more
they are sheltered, the less hold they take of the
ground.

During a trial at Canadarqua, a witness, in
examination, swore to the fact happening
on the same day on which the great Tree in
such a Township (naming it) was blown down,
and arose again ! It was moved in Court that
this man's evidence should be put aside, as not
entitled to belief, but over-rtded: a great num-
ber, then in Court, swore also to the same cir-
cumstance. A farmer informed me that he
lost a basket of provisions and his dog, by a
tree root suddenly resuming its old position. —
Afternoon, took a walk in the woods W. of the
town. — Sultry and showers.

Friday, August 8th.

6 A. M. Set out in company with Mr. Hallet,
for Canadarqua.

CAN ADARQU A.

9 A. M. Reached Mr. Morris's (sixteen miles)
to Breakfast. Introduced to Mrs. Morris, the
elegant, beautiful, and accomplished ahi'ir of
my late pleasant companion, Kane. Intro-
duced, also, to Mr. Greg, from Morpelh, in
England — a gentleman reading law with Mr.
Morris. Agreeable to Mr. Morris's polite in-
vitation of the 6th instant — given in the true
spirit of the hospitality which characterizes the
Country Gentlemen of America, I became
his guest, and was induced to prolong my resi-
dence at Canadarqua. This Grentleman was a
Member of the State Legislature, and son of
the great landed proprietor, of whom Sir William
Pulteney bought the Genesee.

The first eleven miles of this morning's ride
was a heavy timbered low rich soil, the road
almost as bad as a road could be. The mosqui-
toes of this swampy district were of a stouter
race than any I had yet encountered, and to
my utter astonishment, I found them capable of
drawing blood through a thick leather riding
glove. Much as the mosquitoes annoyed us,
our horses had not only to suffer their attacks,
but that of an insect far more dreadful. In
size and figure it very much resembles the
Drone Bee ; its fierceness, its sanguinary cha-
racter, and the terror which it occasioned to
all the beasts of the field, reminded me forcibly

M>]

C A N A DA RQU A.

of Brace's description of " The Fly" of Abys-
sinia. — Saw a few Pheasants, or Grouse. — The
last five miles was higher land, and more cleared.
We crossed an old Indian Settlement, and
passed a large party of Indians encamped near
the Canadarqua Lake. Our road lay along the
northern shore of the Lake, crossing its two
outlets. Its natural outlet is, as in the Seneca
Lake, at its N. E. comer; but an artificial
outlet has been cut at the N. W. corner, which
caiTies off by far the greater quantity of water.
As soon as you pass this stream, you enter the
town of Canadarqua, built at right angles with
the Lake, and consequently not commanding
any view of it. Strangers will always regret
this circumstance ; for though the Canadarqua
Lake is not half the size of the Seneca Lake,
yet its scenery is far more attractive, and its
banks would have afforded a situation very su-
perior to that of Geneva. Those however who
laid out the town of Canadarqua, looked for
more substantial gratifications than that of
merely pleasing the eye.

In 1792 this town was not further advanced
in improvement than Geneva, as it then con-
sisted of only two frame houses and a few log-
houses : it is now one-third larger than Geneva,
containing ninety families, and is the County
Town.

CANADA RUU A.

Canadarqua consists of one street ; from this
street are laid off sixty lots, thirty on each side.
Each lot contains forty acres, having only
twenty-two perches, or one hundred and twenty-
one yards in front : thirty lots, consequently,
extends the town upwards of two miles ; but
the extremities of the i)resent town are not more
than a mile and a half a-part. These lots are
valued in their unimproved state at six hundred
dollars to one thousand dollars each. The Land
is very good : two tons and a half of Hay has
been made per acre.

The principal inhabitants of Canadarqua are,
Thomas Morris, Esq., Mr. Phelps, Mr. Ghoram,
(who are the greatest land-owners in Canadar-
qua and its neighbourhood) and Judge Atwater.

In a groupe of Indians I observed one who
towered above the rest. Mr. Morris informed
me that his great size had procured him the
name of " The Infant.^' He appeared to us
and the other spectators, to be some inches
higher than myself: we measured, and I was
found to be the taller. He was six feet one
inch, and owed his gigantic appearance to his
dress. Col. Brandt, the celebrated Mohawk
Chief, left this town yesterday morning, which
was to me a great disappointment, as I had
an intention of visiting his Settlement on La
Grande Riviere. At noon, we had a very

'!)|

CANADARQUA.

severe thunder storm. The lightning struck
twice in Canadarqua : it destroyed a bam in

BloOmfield. f ,m m; i.an ., : .. .i:j . uu ii.t;

Saturday, August 9th. ,, -, ,

Mr. Ghoram shewed me a petrified wasp's
nest, found in digging a well : it was incorpo-
rated with a piece of winstone. Mr. Morris
shewed me a large ox. — Warm morning ; plea-
sant evening.

Sunday, August 10th.

5 A. M. Set out with Mr. Hallet and Mr.
Morris, for Geneva. Saw a flight of young
pigeons ; dined at the Hotel ; present, Captain
Williamson, Messrs. Johnstone, Morris, Hallet,
Rees, Bogart, and Holt ; tea at Mr. and Mrs.
Colt's. Was shewn the Mandrake Fruit, or
May Apple, shaped like a Lime ; a pleasant
acid, but considered unwholesome. — Warm
morning — pleasant evening.

Monday, August 1 Ith.

Breakfast at Mr. and Mrs. Colt's ; dine at the
Hotel ; present, Mr. Hall, and Mr. Mc. Kenzie,
of Northumberland, Pennsylvania. — Evening,
returned with Mr. Morris, to Canadarqua. —
Warm morning — pleasant evening.

TANADARQUA LAKE.

k
In

Tuesday, August 12th.

«":•."■ ,'i;x'. in;. # t'l 'vj ^

Walk over Mr. Morris's Farm. — Pleasant
morning — rain, evening.

Wednesday, August 13th. * '••'*' r'

Rode with Mr. Morris ten or twelve miles
along the west banks of the Lake. The scenery
for the last six miles was rather tame ; it then
became highly beautiful from a succession of
bold promontories advancing into the Lake en*-
riching and varying its prospect. We princi-
pally rode along the Beach, and sometimes in
the Lake, to avoid fallen trees ; met with two
Sulphur Springs. Canadarqua Lake is eighteen
miles in length, and from one to one and a half
in breadth. The water near the outlet is very
shallow, but of very great depth near the head
of the Lake. The new outlet, previously men-
tioned, has shoaled the water so much, that
near that end of the Lake a considerable sand-
bank has appeared above its surface. The
shores are low the first six miles ; the Lake is
then embosomed in high cliffs and mountains.
The bottom is sand and gravel : its waters con-
tain Salmon-Trout of twenty-five lbs. weight —
Striped Bass and Pickerels, from three to
four lbs. — together with Sun-fish, and many

too

CANADARQUA L A K K.

others. Cat-fish and eels are not to be met with
in this Lake, as they require a muddy bottom,
though very fine ones are taken in the outlet.
The Lake is much frequented by Wild Ducks,
and the Farmers drive the Deer into it, where
they become an easy prey.

The Lands for the first six or seven miles
were gravelly and poor, having no other Timber
than Oaks, and those widely apart. They af^
terwards became more heavily timbered, with
an intermixture of Hickory, Walnut, Dogwood,
and Ironwood. Passed three clearances ; two
of them were low points of land projecting into
the Lake. Soil excellent.

We returned by a road parallel with, and a
mile W. of the Lake. This part of our ride
was through a more improved Country, and the
Soil of the first quaUty, producing Sugar Maple,
Bass, &c.

One farmer was still employed with his Hay
and Timothy ; his harvest had been got in
some time ago. — Sky overcast ; rather too hazy
for a good prospect. Evening cold and damp ;
found a fire very comfortable.

Thursday, August 14th.

Morning, took a walk W. of the Town ;
evening, ride out with Mr. and Mrs. Morris,

INDIANS.

101

N. and E. of the Lake. Passed an Indian wig-
wam ; other Indians sleeping round a fire in the
open air, partly undressed. '

Friday, August 16th.

Evening, ride with Mr. and Mrs. Morris to
Mills ; crossed outlet ; excellent Lands,

chiefly Sugar Maple.

Saturday, August 16th. •

Evening, ride with Mr. and Mrs. Morris,
£. side of the Lake, three miles. Excellent
Land ; two or three clearances. —Evening and
night, heavy rain.

Sunday, August 17th.

Attended a Presbyterian Congregation held
in the Court-house, being the only religious
assembly in '^anadarqua. There were present
fifty men, and thirty women. Evening, rode
out with Mr. and Mrs. Morris, E. side of the
Lake.

Monday, August I8th.

8 A. M. Took leave of Mr. and Mrs. Morris.
At two hundred and twenty-one miles, took
right fork, the left being the road to Big-Tree.

102

CANAWAOOS.

Two hundred and twenty-four miles, Bloom-
field Meeting-House ; as yet, the frame-work
only is put up, being a very handsome skeleton.
The situation is a very fine one. Two hundred
and twenty-eight miles, Major Sears' Tavern.

Two hundred and thirty miles, Creek

and Mill.

U p. M. Canawagos, or New Hartford ;
Mrs. Berry's Tavern, a single house on the
banks of the Genesee River, two hundred and
forty-one miles. There is another Tavern on
the Hill — a better House, but inferior accommo-
dation to Mrs. Berry's. An open, well-settled
country the whole of these twenty-five miles,
especially the Township of Bloomfield,* which
was the first settled, and is the most populous
district in the Genesee. The quality of the
Land is very different /"om what might be ex-
pected from this circumstance; for instead of
being one of the best, it is one of the worst
tracts in the County — being a thin soil or gravel,
consequently incapable of being heavily Tim-

* " In November, 1804, a waggon load of Wheat containing
" 100 bushels, was brought by four yoke of oxen from Bloomfield
" to Albany, a distance of 230 miles. The Wheat was purchased
" at Bloomfield fords, currency per bushel, (62f cents, or 2s. 9|d.
" sterling) and sold at Albany for 17s. 3d. per busiiel, (two dollars
" and 16| cents, or 9s. 8fd. sterling.) The journey going and
" returning may be performed in twenty days, notwithstanding
" the badness of the roads at this season." — Albany Gazette.

O £ N E H E £ RIVER.

103

bered. Oak is the only Timber produced, and
is much scattered, and without Underwood.
Passed three schools. Conversed with a Settler
anxious to remove W. of the Genesee River to
the Holland Purchase, where he expected Land
at two dollars, and to sell his own at four, five,
and six dollars. Met a few Indians. Saw
Blue Birds, Yellow Birds, King's Bird, Brown
Thrasher, Jay, large black Woodpecker, a
bird smaller than a Wren, and an Owl-like
Hawk. Hazel Nuts almost ripe. Good Spring
Water at Mrs. Berry's ; river now fordable ; the
banks very high and steep; overflow in the
freshets ; Land in New Hartford worth ten dol-
lars per acre ; river water not very clear. Dine
at Mrs. Berry's.

5 p. M. Proceeded on journey ; cross the
river. Two hundred and forty- three miles,
Baker's. Two hundred and forty-six miles,
Dugan's ; intended to lodge here this night, but
finding no stable for my horses, I proceeded to
Stafer's, which I reached at 7 p. m. Two hun-
dred and forty-nine miles ; this respectable
farmer lives off the road in anew boarded house,
the only one of that description between Mrs.
Berry's and the mouth of the river. Stafer is
the oldest Settler, Indian Allen excepted, on
the Genesee River. When Stafer first settled
on this River, about twelve years ago, there

104

G E N i: S C E FLATS.

\ '

were not more than four or five families settled
l»etween him and Fort Schuyler, (Utica) a din-
distance of one hundred and fifty miles, and
at this time there is a continued line of Settle-
ments, including the towns of Cayuga, Geneva,
Canadarqua, and the populous township of
Bloomfield. '. ' ••

Stafer's Farm consists of eight hundred acres,
one hundred of which are a part of the cele-
brated Genesee Flats, which have their northern
termination at this place. The Genesee Flats,
or Open Plain, is an extensive tract of land bor-
dering the Genesee River, and I believe princi-
pally the west bank of it : its extent I am not
acquainted with. It terminates, as above men-
tioned, at this place, and extends above Big-
tree, which is miles from Stafer's.

Captain Williamson, when speaking of this
Plain, says, " where ten thousand acres itnj
" be found in one body, not even encumbered
♦♦ with a bush, but covered with grass of such
*' height, that the largest bullocks, at thirty feet
" from the path, will be completely hid from the
" view." Others have informed me, that they
have seen the grass upon this Plain ten feet in
height, and have had it tied over their heads
whilst on horseback ! This Plain I entered upon
the moment I crossed the Genesee River, and
was much struck with its appearanee. To the

O E N E H E K FLATS.

lOo

N. and S. no eye could discover its extent ; it
was bordered by the river to the E. and on the
W. by the dark matted Forest of Ages. That
no tree is to be found on this Plain, may be
owing to its being- subject to the inundations
of the River; and it is not improbable that it
was once overspread by a Lake.

Stafer informed me that he paid seven dollars
a barrel for Salt, and that six dollars was the
usual price. This he considered as one of the
greatest hardships of his situation ; for the in-
habitants of the Back Country are not only
under the necessity of salting their provisions,
but of giving Salt to their cattle, — to them so
necessary, that they could not live without it.
I have frequently seen my horse scrape with his
teeth, and lick the manger, for the Salt which
it had imbibed, to the neglect of his food, how-
ever hungry. Wild animals resort to the Salt
Springs, or Licks, which are dispersed through-
out the Western country.

My accommodations at Stafer s were very in-
different, but the very particular attention and
civility of this family made me full compen-
sation.

Tuesday, August 19th.

I^ft Stafer's at 6 a. m. At two hundred and

100

<; F. N E N E K I. A N n I N (J .

fifty-five miles, crosHcd a very dangerous bridge
over Black Creek : this bridge was constructed
of loose poles lai<l on sleepers. My horse fell
down in consequence of the poles slipping from
under his feet. Seeing the danger, I had already
dismounted, and was happy my horse escaped
without breaking his legs.

Two hundred and sixty-one miles, Genesee
Mills, on the Upper Falls of the River. As
Colonel Fish, the miller, had not those accom-
modations which I expected, not even a stable,
I was obliged to proceed to Mr. King's, at the
Genesee Landing, two hundred and sixty-four
miles, where 1 got a good breakfast on wild
pigeons, &c. Mr. King is the only respectable
Settler in this Township, (No. 1, Short Range)
in which there are at present twelve families,
four of whom have established themselves at
the Landing. King, though the proprietor of
three thousand acres, lives in an indifferent log-
house : one reason for this is, that he has not
been able to procure boards. The Landing is
the part from whence all the shipments of the
Genesee River must be made ; but further im-
provements are much checked in consequence
of the titles to the lands here being in dispute.
The circumstances are as follow : — Mr. Phelps
sold three thousand acres in this neighbourhood
to Mr. Granger for aboiit ten thousand dollars,

OGNESEE LANDING.

107

the payment being secured by a mortgage on
the land. Granger died soon after his removal
here, and having sold part of the Land, the
residue would r A dear the mortgage, which
prevented his heirs from administering to his
estate. Phelps foreclosed the mortgage, and
entered on possession, even on that part which
had been already sold and improved. Some
Settlers, in consequence, quitted their farms;
others repaid the purchase money ; and others,
again, are endeavouring to make some accom-
modation with Mr. Phelps. A son of Mr. Gran-
ger resides here, and Mr. Greaves, his nephew,
became also a Settler, erected the frame of a
good house, and died.

The Landing is at present an unhealthy resi-
dence, but when the woods get more opened,
it will no doubt become as healthy as any other
part of the Genesee. Went to see the new
Store and Wharf; very difficult to get goods
conveyed to and from the Wharf, in conse-
quence of the great height and steepness of the
bank.

Yesterday a schooner of forty tons sailed
from hence for Kingston, in Upper Canada,
(about one hundred miles from the Landing)
laden with Potash, which had been sent from
Canadarqua to Rundicut-bay, and from thence
in boats to the Genesee Landing. No Potash is

III

! 1

f 1

lOB

GENESEE LANDING.

made in this neighbourhood for want of kettles.
Indeed, many thousand acres of excellent Tim-
ber are annually burnt in the United States
without any use being made of the ashes, for the
Land is too rich to require them as tillage. Four
hundred and fifty bushels of wood ashes make
one ton of potash, a barrel of which weighs four
hundred weight. An Albany sloop will take on
board four hundred barrels, or eighty tons,
worth thirty dollars a barrel, or two thousand
seven hundred pounds sterling the cargo.

The Landing is four miles from the mouth of
the River, where two log-huts are built at its
entrance into Lake Ontario. At the Landinir
the Channel runs close along shore, and has
thirty feet depth; but upon the Bar, at the
mouth of the River, the water shoals to sixteen
or eighteen feet. The River abounds with fish,
principally cat-fish, which are taken with night-
lines.

Being within four miles of the mouth of the
River, I felt desirous of visiting Lake Ontario,
especially at this spot ; equally distant from its
eastern and western limits, and opposite to its
centre and widest parts, being here eighty miles
across : but as I had to navigate its whole length
in my way to Montreal, and as the Falls of
the Genesee would fully occupy the rest of the
day, I thought it best to relinquish this object.

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OEN£;r:£ falls.

109

Tlie nearest ports to the Genesee River are,
Rundicut-Bay, live miles to the £. and Bradloe-
Bay, thirteen miles to the W. The first is si-
tuated on a Creek, the channel of which is dif-
ficult to be discerned in the marsh through
which it takes its tortuous course ; and from
the shallowness of the water, it is obliged to
send its produce to the Genesee River in ba-
teaux. Four or five families are settled at Run-
dicut. Bradloe is a better situation, and a more
flourishing Settlement. ..u..

Noon, returned in company with Col. Fish ;
passed an excellent bridge over a gully forty
feet in depth. Col. Fish has the merit of this
work. He collected all the men of his neigh-
bourhood, to the number of one hundred, and
in two days, at the expense of four hundred and
seventy-five dollars, the bridge was completed.
The expense was borne by the individuals most
interested. •»■*», ft i^^^' \ imv ^jI iji.i »? \te\ i>..f<((iuMii

> Had a fine view, from the top of the bank,
of the two lower Falls, of which I took a sketch.
I next took a view of the great Fall. This
being the most interesting, I left my horse in
charge of my servant, and by a path which
Col. Fish pointed out to me, descended to the
bed of the River. My first project was to go
under the Falls, in which 1 so completely suc-
ceeded, as to penetrate to the centre rock,

GENESEE FALLS.

\\ m

111

which divides the Fall into two parts. From
the projection and curvature of the water when
falling, and from the upper part of the precipice
overhanging its base, the lower part having
caved in from the action of the water and the
spray, I had sufficiency of room ; but the spray
wet me to the skin, and prevented my breathing
freely. A cray-fish fell at my feet, which not a
little surprised me, as I expected that every
thing brought down by the current would be
carried along with the body of water ; otherwise
I risked being knocked on the head by some of
the larger fish ! My situation was very singular.
A river falling over my head ! On one hand, a
dark black rock, the fragments of which had
the appearance of slate-shiver, but were, in fact,
an imperfect limestone ; on the other, an arch
of waters, forming a canopy above me at the
height of ninety-six feet, white with foam, and
illumined by a bright sun ! With an eye hurried
along with the precipitated river, my ears
stunned with the raging tumulj;, and my whole
frame, as the rock I stood upon, shaking with
the concussion, I found myself in a scene
which under no circumstances could be calmly
contemplated ! Oozing from the rock, under-
neath the Fall, I observed a Sulphur Spring,
and also a Salt Spring. After coming from
under the cataract, I took off all my clothe.«.

O E N E S E K FALL »,

111

and laid them in the sun to dry. I now swam
across the River, and went under the eastern
side of the Fall, as far as the centre rock before
mentioned. On my return I entered the water
higher than I ought to have done, and found
that instead of descending the River, I was
drawn towards the Falls. It immediately oc-
curred to me that the pressure of the falling
water upon the surface of the stream caused
this attraction, and that I should be less ex-
posed to it by diving; I adopted this expedient,
which was probably the means of saving my
life ; for it was with the greatest difficulty that
I reached the western shore. Whilst resting to
recruit my strength, I took two sketches of the
Falls. The bed of the River is limestone rock,
flat as a table, but piled in layers above each
other, so that the River in some parts is very
deep, and in others scarcely covers the surface
of these flat rocks. I did not accurately exa-
mine the width of the River at this place, but
above the Falls, it appeared to be about one
hundred and fifty yards wide. The banks of
the River were upwards of two hundred feet
high, being the same ridge which makes the
Falls of Niagara. Following the ridge, Nia-
gara Falls are not more than sixty-six miles
from those of the Genesee, whilst, by the pre-
sent route, it is at least seventy-six ; some make

GENESEE FALLS.

it eig!ity-six, from tlie River at Hartford to
Buffaioe Creek, from which you liave to de-
scend at least twenty-five miles to the Falls of
Niagara. The route by this ridge is not only
fi-om thirty to forty miles nearer than that by
Buffaloe Creek, but is a much better country
to carry a road through ; this being high, dry,
and tolerably level ; the other for a great part
low and swampy. An Indian path is already
marked out on this ridge to Niagara Falls, but
is very difficult to distinguish ; at some future
time, the main road to Niagara will be carried
this way.

The Main or Middle Falls, as already men-
tioned, are ninety-six feet in height : he Lower
Falls are fifty-four feet, being in fact two Falls,
forming a pair of steps. Col. Fish remembers
these Falls united in one pitch, which makes
them differ essentially from the Middle Falls ;
for in one case the rock wears away at the top,
and in the other at the bottom. I have no me-
morandum of the height of the Upper Fall at
Fish's Mills ; it is, however, the most incon-
siderable. Some day, perhaps, all the Falls
will be united in one, like that of Niagara. —
Rattlesnakes are frequently seen at these Falls.
I now ascended the bank, which in some places
is nearly perpendicular, and joined my servant,
wLo had been waiting two hours and had began

«■;

O E N E S E E FALLS.

11.3

to fear some accident had befallen me. I found
no Mosquitoes below the banks of the river, but
they were troublesome in the woods. In a few
minutes 1 joined Col. Fish at the Mills. These
Mills were built in 1789, by a Mr. Allen, called
Indian Allen, from his long residence among
the Aborigines of this country, who on condi-
tion of building them, had a tract of one hun-
dred acres adjoining given to him by Mr.
Phelps, the Mills to remain Allen's property.

The Grist Mill is very ill constructed ; it is
erected too near the bed of the River, and the
race so improperly managed, that it is dry in
Summer, and liable to back-water in Winter.
It contains but one pair of stones, made from
the stone of a neighbouring quarry, and which
is found to be very suitable for this purpose.
This Mill is not at present able to grind more
than ten bushels a day ; were it in good order,
it would gi ind sixty. This was the first Mill
erected in the Gene~ee Country. It was not
only resorted to by the inhabitants of Bradloe,
Caledonia, Genesee Landing, &c. but by those
living so far distant as Canadarqua. It is now
almost entirely neglected, in consequence of
being so much out of repair ; and the Settlers on
the W. of the River are obliged to resort to the
Mill at Rundicut, which from Bradloe is at least
eighteen miles, besides having a river to cross.

114

GRNESKK R I V K R.

<■}

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The Saw Mill is already ruined. Indian Allen,
soon after the erection of these Mills, sold the
property to Mr. Ogden, of Newark, New Jer-
sey, who re-sold it to Captain Williamson, the
present possessor. Captain W. perceiving the
value of this property, proposes to huild a new
and much larger Mill, a few feet higher than
the present one. It will be then out of the
way of ice and back-water ; and by taking the
race from a more favourable part of the River,
where in the driest seasons the channel has six
feet water close alongshore., it will have a never-
failing supply of water : and as, in consequence
of the Falls, there must be a portage at this
place, the race is to serve the purpose of a
canal, not only to float logs to the Saw- Mills,
but for the river craft to discharge and take in
their lading.

The Genesee River, above the Falls, may be
about one hundred and fifty yards wide. In
the whole distance between King's and Stafer's,
fifteen miles, six of which you have the river in
sight : there are three or four clearances ; the
rest is through thick woods of Beech, Bass,
Sugar-Maple, Tulip-tree, Oak, Hickory, Ches-
nut, Butter-nut, Black Walnut, Dogwood, Iron-
wood, and two or three Hemlock Fine. I ob-
served White Pine on the opposite banks of the
River, and could perceive the tops of those

BIG SPRING.

115

en,

the

er-

the

lew

lan

the

ver,

six

'er-

ice

his

' a

lis.

be
In

Pines which line the shores of Lake Ontario. —
Saw Black and Ground Squirrels, Pheasants,
and Wild Pigeons. — Horse-Flies and Mosqui-
toes troublesome. • "■ ' ' ' . '.

7 p. M. Reached my old quarters at Stafer's,
two hundred and seventy-nine miles. — Morning
overcast. • •

Heavy showers in the morning ; remainder of
the day clear and pleasant.

Wednesday, August 20th.

5i A.M. Mounted on horseback ; two hun-
dred and eighty miles, Allen Creek ; two hun-
dred and eighty-five miles, Baker's. I here
took an Indian path, inclining S. W. and at
two hundred and eighty-seven miles, fell in with
the main Niagara Road.

8 A.M. Pie Tersen's Tavern at the Big Spring,
two hundred and ninety-two miles ; got here a
tolerable breakfast, and very good feed for my
horses. The house was neat, and had two
good beds. Capt. Williamson, the proprietor,
has laid out a town, in acre lots, at this place,
but at present two families only are settled here.
Pie Tersen possesses twenty-six acres, which
cost him three dollars per acre ; of his acre lot
he has made an excellent garden, from whence
he cut for me a water-melon. Within two

ill

M(J

II I O SPRING.

miles of the Big Spring is the Scotcli Settlement
of Caledonia, containing about twelve families ;
six other families are settled in the immediate
neighbourhood of Caledonia. These Settlers
purchased their land of Captain Williamson for
three dollars per acre. Captain W. gave each
family a cow, and supplied them with wheat for
the tirst year; to be repaid in kind. He is also
not to charge any interest for the first five
years.

After breakfast I visited the Big Spring ; it
spreads over two acres, on a limestone bed.
This small Lake never freezes ; at its outlet it
has force and water sufficient to turn two, or
more, large water wheels. The stream from
this Spring falls into Allen Creek, on which
Caledonia is situated, and which I crossed at
two hundred and eighty miles.

I was much entertained by observing a spe-
cies of Snipe constantly fluttering near the sur-
face of the water, from which they were very
busy in picking up their food ; but this employ-
ment met with constant interruption from a
Pigeon-Hawk, whom they, however, baffled with
the greatest facility. They did not appear to see
the Hawk till they were, as it were, in his talons ;
they then dipped into the water, but ihe im-
mersion was so sudden — so quickly did they
emerge again, I could scarcely perceive that

O ANSON 8 TAVERN.

117

iate

lers

for

ach

for

also

they went under the water at all. A Duck,
which was sailing quietly on the Spring did not
come off so well ; I saw it shot with a rifle by
Hotbread, an Indian Chief. He was an old
Seneca Warrior between sixty and seventy years
old, whose mother was still living.

This venerable Princess, who, being named
from a Sulphur Spring, is called Canawagos, or
Stink-Hole, can be proved, I was informed, to
be at least one hundred and twenty years old !
yet able to walk about and plant her own
Maize. She lives surrounded by forty of her
children, grand-children and great-grand-chil-
dren, and some of the latter old enough to
make her a great-great-grand-mother. The
residence of this tribe is very near Hartford,
or Can; .wagos.

Hotbrea J's beard was about two inches long,
but thin. He had a Nag with him whose ears
were rimmed and tipt with silver !

11 A. M. Proceeded on my journey; two
hundred and ninety-seven miles, Ganson's Ta-
vern. When my friend L passed this

place last year, Ganson's was a solitary house in
the Wildern ess, but it is now in the midst of a
flourishing town,* in which twenty-one families

* In tlie United States of America a Town is a District of con-
si(lcrable.extcntt gen' rally six miles square.

W If

; .'

118

THE U' 1 L D E R N E 8 N.

are already settled. A new Tavern and a num-
her of dwelling-houseH were building.

Two hundred and ninety-eight miles re-croHH
Allen Creek ; the bed, a flat limestone Rock,
fifteen or twenty yardn wide, with three or four
inches of water. A handsome bridge was
building. This Creek is the western termination
of Capt. Williamson 8 purchase.

1 now entered into what is called the Wilder-
ness. From fiaker's at two hundred and eighty
five miles, to two hundred and eighty-seven
miles, the face of the Country presented high
"stony Land with scattered Oaks ; thence to two
hundred and ninety-four miles same kind of
limestone land, but not so hilly. At two hundred
and ninety-four enter thick Woods of Beech,
Sugar Maple, &c. in thin rich vegetable mould,
covering a bed of stones.

A very handsome Road, four rods or sixty -
six feet in width, has been cut out the whole
distance from the Genesee River to Ganson's,
being twelve miles in nearly a straight line.

2 P. M. Reached the Holland Company's
Storehouse and Walter's Tavern, three hundred
and four miles and a half. The Holland Com-
pany consists of a number of Merchants and
others, principally resident in Holland, who
purchased a very large tract of land of Mr.
Morris. This territory, for such it may be

itOLLAND COMFANy'h LAND. 119

im-

Otiti

ck,
iiir

er-
ity
en
Kh
.vo
of

GCI

:h,
d,

called, in on the East bounded by VVilliamson't)
purcliasc, and on the West by Lake Erie and
Niagara River; but its Northern and Southern
boundaries 1 am not accurately acquainted with.

No part of the Holland Company's Land is,
1 believe, yet settled, but at present under
survey for that purpose. One of the principal
Surveyors, and his gang, were at the Tavern,
and fully occupied the lodging hut; this, with
the additional circumstance of there being no
hay for my horses, and no other feed than
Oats cut green in the Straw, induced me to
give up my design of sleeping here this night,
but rather, push on to the next station.

The Surveyor informed me that they put no
dependance now on the Mariners' compass ;
that it will frequently give ctn error of sixty rods
(poles) or three hundred and thirty yards in ten
miles ; that it gave an error of eij,* iy-four ihou-
thousand acres in running the Ea«t line of
Capt. Williamson's purchase, which was not
discovered till after the deeds were signed and
the money paid; the difference however, was
generously yielded up by Mr. Morris to Cap-
tain Williamson, who otherwise would not
only have lost this quantity of land, but would
have been cut off from Sodus Bay, Seneca
Lake and the excellent situation of Hopetown
Mills on the outlet of the Crooked Lake.

1-20

DAVIS S TAVERN.

II I

||:

The life of these Surveyors is a vei7 dangerous
one, being not only exposed to the inclemency
of the seasons, but to the attack of Mosquitoes,
Snakes and other troublesome and dangerous
insects and reptiles. " " "^' ^'< ' ■ * t r . . i ; . '

Mrs. Walter complained that the emigrants
from Pennsylvania and New Jersey were very
insolent and thievish. -• 'f* «;■■ v ' - <■.

4 p. M. Left Walter's ; three hundred and
nine miles, fell in with the Tanawantee Creek,
sluggish, shallow and broad.

6i p. M. Reach Davis's Tavern three hundred
and sixteen miles, near a small run of good
water. This is one of those stations which the
Holland Company have this year established
for the accommodation of travellers, who, hi-
therto, have been obliged to sleep in the woods.
Davis first began to ply his axe in January last ;
he has now a good log-house, a field of green
Oats sown on the 18th of June, (the only feed
I could get for ray horses,) and a very excellent
garden, the most productive of any, for its size,
that I have seen since leaving New York. He
has also cleared a pretty extensive field which
he will put into Wheat. On this land the logs
were now burning, and I passed a great part
of the night in making-up the fires. This em-
ployment I preferred to harbouring with a
number of strangers, one of whom was sick

1 1 'l !
r "

i * P.

II '}

i ,

MAPLE SUGAR.

121

and not expected to live till morning. This,
however, was only the fearful conjecture of
Davis, for the Physician gave better hopes.

I got some Maple Sugar to my tea, it was
better prepared than what I generally met with
at these log-huts : for unless sufficiently sepa-
rated from its molasses, it has a disagreeable
taste of the sap. When at Bath Mrs. Williamson
gave me Loaf Sugar from the Maple, which was
very white, and of a harder and closer grain
than any manufactured from the Cane. It had
no particular flavour to distinguish it from the
West India Sugar. It was not, however, so
sweet ; in other words, it would not go so far.
The Backwoods of America abound more with
the Sugar Maple than with any other Tree, at
least I found it to be the case in the Genesee.
The finest Trees of this kind that I ever saw
were at the foot of the main Alleghany Ridge,
near the Sweet Springs of Virginia ; they were
clumsily tapped with an axe. In the Genesee,
the Maple and other Whitewood Trees are cut.
down in the Winter for fodder for the Cattle,
which will eat all the smaller branches even to
the thickness of a man's wrist. On hearing a
Tree fall the Cattle set off full scamper to-
wards it.

It is only during four or five weeks in the
Spring that the juice of the Maple can be col*

I !

'» i

122

DA VIS 8 TAVERN.

lected. The largest Trees, which seldom exceed
six feet in diameter, will yield five gallons of sap
in one day, though there have been Trees of that
extraordinary size as to yield upwards of seven
gallons a-da,y. One man may, in the course of
a month, make from five to six hundred pounds
weight of Sugar. In 1794 eighty-three families
in Vermont made fourteen thousand pounds
weight of Maple Sugar; and in 1791 forty fami-
lies in Orange County made nearly the same
quantity.

Mr. and Mrs. Davis paid me every possible
attention, but I cannot praise them for neat-
ness. Perhaps I ought not to have expected it,
when the peculiarity of this situation, and a
large family of small children, are taken into
consideration.

From Allen Creek, two hundred and ninety-
eight miles, to Walter's, three hundred and four
miles and a half, was the counterpart of the
Oneida Woods, of course excellent Land, and
execmble roads. The tract just admitted room
for a waggon. In a little time the mire holes
would be impassable; the waggoner would
then take his axe and cut out a new passage.

From three hundred and four miles and a
half, to Davis's at three hundred and sixteen,
the road was somewhat better, but the woods
the same. At Davis's the woods are composed

r H K W 1 L D K R N E S S.

123

of small tall saplings which were very closely
crowded. i*; '^

This Morning experienced a very keen frost,
with a bright sun. So late as 1 1 a. m. I stood
in the sun to warm myself, my hands being
much benumbed with the cold.

Very scorching sun, and Flies and Mosqui-
toes troublesome in the Afternoon, especially
after leaving Walter's.

Night moderate.- Slept in the gang-way be-
tween the two huts forming Davis's house.

Thursday, August 21st.

G'^trt at day-break. Three hundred and eigh-
te- 'as, leave the thick Woods and enter
up ' wie Big Plains. These Plains are open
groves of Oak in a light shallow soil on lime-
stone. The Oaks are dispelled at widb inter-
vals, and none, apparently, larger than two feet
and a half in diameter. There is no underwood,
but the ground covered, as it were, with Fern
and Scrub Willow, or Tamarisk ; the Grass was
therefore limited in Quantity and very coarse.

These Plains are many miles in extent ; and
it struck me that 1 had seen Park Grounds
in England much resembling them. Three
hundred and twenty-one miles the Oaks smaller
and more compact. Three hundred and twen-

124

T A M A M' A N T E E.

ty-two miles, enter thick Woods of Beech,
Maple, &c. . !,■- .<-_? .A>.Ui>.M;^

.} 7i A. M. Reach the Indian Town of Tana-
wantee, three hundred and thirty miles. This
Settlement is on the West banks of the Tana-
wan tee Creek, which I now crossed for the
second time ; it bore, however, a very different
character here than at three hundred and nine
miles, being clear and rapid.

At Tanawancee reside from fifteen to twenty
families of Seneca Indians, who are well supplied
with fish from the Creek. Here, also, has been
settled, from the year 1794, Paudit, a French
Canadian ; he very cheerfully gave such refresh-
ment to ourselves and horses as his slender
means would afford. He conversed in very good
English, and is well acquainted with the Seneca
language. I could not refuse myself the pleasure
of tickling Paudit's vanity. I informed him,
that obscure as he might think his situation in
an Indian Village, yet that his name was known
throughout all Europe and America. That I
had seen honourable mention of him in a splen-
did French Work in eight volumes, which had
been immediately translated, both in England
and America, in consequence of the very
exalted character of its author, who was no
other than his noble countryman the Duke de
Liancourt. Fuither 1 mentioned to him the

■I i

WHIRLWINDS.

125

Duke's grateful acknowledgment of his services
as his trusty guide through an American Wil-
derness ! This incense was too grateful to Pan-
dit's vanity, to permit him to accept any other
compensation for the hospitalities of his house.
Paudit treated my Horses with some good
Hay, which they had been a long time without.

Tanawantee is two or three miles to the
North of the direct Road, which I was obliged
to quit in consequence of the storm of the 8th
Inst, having made it an impenetrable abattis.
These Storms, or Whirlwinds, seldom extend
more than two or three miles in breadth, but
many hundred miles in length. In the autumn of
1792 one of these Storms was traced from the
Upper Lakes of Canada, to the sea coast in
Pennsylvania. Captain Williamson was at that
time in the Genesee ; he heard the Storm roar
above his head, and small branches of Fir fell at
his feet, yet the Indians in cOiTCipany assured
him that you must follow the West line of the
Storm, at least three hundred miles, before you
could meet with Pines !

A Storm of this kind tears up every Tree in
its way. That on the 1st Inst, was much less
violent, yet it twisted off all the upper branches
of many trees, which it was not, from the shel-
ter they received from others, able to overturn.
One very hot calm day I had the satisfaction to

I IT"

126

THE WILDERNESS.

see a Whirlwind in miniature ; it was not more
than twelve feet in diameter, and moved at the
rate of about one mile an hour. It passed over
a field of Maize, tearing off the dried leaves, and
carrying them, with a circular motion, far high-
er than my eyes could follow. A great body of
leaves were constantly ascending, but I could
not observe any come down again. I crossed
the line of this Whirlwind to feel its force ; it
was not so powerful as I expected from its
effects in the Maize Field.

Left Tanawantee and passed through open
Plains of Oak, with less of the Tamarisk and
more Grass, to three hundred and thirty-four
miles, where I lell in with the old Road.

I had now much difficulty in making my way
through thick Woods of Beech, Maple, &c. to
three hundred and thirty-six miles and a half;
thence to three hundred and thirty-seven miles
an Oak Plain ; again thick Woods of Beech,
&c. to three hundred and forty-one miles ; and
an Oak Plain for the next three miles

lOi A. M. Ransom's Station; three hundred
and forty-four miles.

I was here greatly surprized with an excellent
breakfast; a tender Chicken, and good loaf
Sugar to my Tea.

Ransom, like Davis, sat down in the Woods
in January last. He has one hundred and fifty

m 1,.

THE WILDERNESS.

127

its

pen
md
bur

vay
. to
ilf;
lies
cb,
md

red

ilit

)af
ds

acres, for which he is to pay three hundred dol-
lars ; ten acres are cleared and in Oats. He has
the advant^e of Davis, in being surrounded by
the Plains, which afford Hay and Pasturage.

The Holland Company have laid out a new
Road from Ganson s to Bufialoe Creek, which
passes to the South of Davis's Station, but falls
in with the present Road at Ransom's. This
new Route will make a saving of ten miles in
forty-two.

Ransom informed me, that by an account
which he has kept, no less than one hundred
and fifty-five families, with their waggons, have
passed his house this Summer, migrating from
Pennsylvania and New Jersey to Canada. Six-
teen waggons passed in one day.

l^ p. M. Rode through Oak Plains, but
which presented very diflerent features from
those already passed. These Oaks, instead of
being regularly intermixed, were arranged in
screens, or belts, enclosing Plains of very irre-
gular figures, some very long and narrow, others
of an oval and round form ; and from half a
mile to two or three miles in diameter. On
these open spaces there were very few Trees,
and those very small ; but the belts were formed
of Trees closely crowded. These Belts were
seldom more than from twenty to sixty or
eighty yards in width. The only \vay I could

128

T H ii W I L D i: R N !•: H ».

account for this appearance, was, that in the
direction of these belts the soil was deeper than
on the open spaces, where it scarcely covered
the limestone rock. •* i v i..; • /rr^ >iM -i; $

Three hundred and fifty-two miles, the Eleven
Miles Run. This stream passes over a smooth
bed of limestone, and after heavy rain shews
here a beautiful Cascade, having a picturesque
fall of thirty feet. At present the Water escapes
by crevices in the bed of the stream, before it
reaches the fall, and re-appears at the distance
of one hundred yards below the foot of the falls.

Leaving ray horse to the care of my servant, I
scrambled down to the foot of the falls, in hopes
of finding those stones resembling agate, which
Mr. Clay speaks of. I was disappointed in
my search. My Route now lay through thick
Woods of Beech, Maple, &c. to three hundred
and fifty-five miles; then Oak Groves and
Plains to three hundred and fifty-nip a miles,
where the solitary axe of a Backwoods-man
was at work.

I now entered upon a new Road opened by
the Holland Company, similar to that cut by
Captain Williamson from the Genesee River to
Ganson's. This Road is through very heavy
timbered land. Following the Road three miles,
the present extent of it, brought me to the
Village of Bufialoe, on Bufialoe Cre^^k. Pal-

B U F P A L O E CREEK.

120

mer's Tavern three hundred and sixty-two

miles. aiiHHur, -. ' \ .;.)tJ.ia I'fi *» *.-! t k>',-.l

From the Piazza of this Tavern I delightfully
feasted my eyes on the expanse of Lake Erie ;
the British Fort on the opposite Shore ; a gal-
lant Fleet riding at anchor; the winding and
rich Banks of Buffaloe Creek; and the Ri 'er
Niagara taking its impetuous course from the
Lake. ■ •"

The Tavern was crowded with Indians. I
observed two in very rich dresses of scarlet and
green cloth.

The great body of the six Nations are settled
about eight miles from hence at a place called
Great Buffaloe, on the same Creek, ; at which
place they reckon about fourteen hundred Se-
neca's; and four hundred more, composed of
Cayugas, Onondagas, Tuscororas, and Dela-
wares. As for the Mohawks, they removed
under Colonel Brandt, to La Grande Riviere,
in Upper Canada.

The Indians on Buffaloe Creek live remark-
ably well ; they possess, not only productive
Fields and Gardens, and plenty of Fish, but
they receive annually amongst them eight thou-
sand dollars, being the interest of one hundred
and twenty thousand dollars arising from the
sales of their Lands ; principally those now pos-
sessed by the Holland Company.

130

L A K R E R I F..

»' i

Leaving Bufllaloe, I followed the shore of
Lake Erie to its outlet. Tlie appearance and
roaring of the waves were sucli a novelty to my
Horses, that it was with difficulty they were
made to approach sufficiently near, as to per-
mit me to ride on the wet and firm sand. Three
hundred and sixty-five miles, reached the ferry-
house. . : .

The setting Sun gave a fine glow to the Land-
scape, richly illuminating the Lake, the River,
the Fort and the Lake-Fleet moored in front of
it, and which consisted of eight armed Schoo-
ners from seventy to ninety tons each.

Crossed the Niagara River in a Scow ; it is
five furlongs, or five-eights of a mile wide, and
the Channel thirty feet in depth.

-, • . -^ ■■•' - - - • • - -., (■, : . ■• .;■

t' ,■•1'.,.' .11 , ■ ..'■,) r ;

UPPER CANADA.

i ,»'

■ y.i.

Thursday, August 2l8t, 1800.

7i p. M. Wintermoth's Tavern; three hundred
and sixty-six miles ; having rode fifty miles this
day.

At Sun-rise the Flies and Mosquitoes began
to be very troublesome. At Ransom's the great
Horse-Flies were so numerous and blood -thiraty
that my Horses could not eat their food for
them; yet Ransom informed me that there
were very few compared to what had been
during the more early part of the Summer,
when they drove the Cattle from the Woods
which he was obliged to protect with the smoke
of large fires. They attack in silence, yet a
Horse seems always sensible of their approach.

Met with one Whortleberry-bush. Saw a
young Bear, which, being in great want of food,

■t

1.V2

NIAGARA KIVRR.

was sucking his hams, not paws ; which I was
informed they will continue doing for hours
together when hungry. — Warm day. — Strong
breeze on the Plains. — Sultry evening.

Iff I

Friday, August 22d. ,_

5a.m. Leave Wintermoth's. I was now on
the banks of the Niagara River, and not more
than seventeen miles from its celebrated Cata-
ract.

Had I been suddenly set down in .Fairy-
Land I could not have been more alive to ex-
pectation. My mind, too, was agitated by that
pleasing tumult which those experience who
are on the point of realizing, for the first time,
the favourite wish of their heart.

I pursued the course of the River by a very
excellent road.

This River possesses features, which, though
frequently seen in Tide-water Bays, Inlets and
on the Sea-Coast, yet rarely characterizes a
running stream. Instead of the banks partak-
ing of a straight or easy flowing line, they are
a continuation of long points of Land making
into the River, and as the Road follows the
same line, the present travelled distance be-
tween Fort Erie and Chippawa might be less-
ened one half.

C li 1 1> P A W A.

133

Ths Niagara is certainly a very noble Stream,
but its banks are tame and void of all interest.
The United States Shore was hid by La Grande
Isle, covered with wood and unsettled.

On the Canada side, the whole distance to
the Falls, with little exception, is settled ; and
that principally by emigrants from the United
States since 1792. I only passed two boarded
Houses, and those little larger than log-huts.
I observed King-fishers, Pigeon-Hawks, Mot^s
and Grasshoppers, but no Mosquitoes, and fp >7
Flies. During my approach to Chippawa, I had,
for many miles, observed a heavy smoke arise
on the Canada side of the Niagara, which I
attributed to the burning of logs, on a piece
of Land then clearings but when within two
miles of Chippawa, 1 evidently perceived that
what I considered as smoke, arose from the
River, and it then occurred to me that it was the
Spray of the Falls. I stopped my Horse and
could distinguish the roaring of the Waters,
from its gradual introduction upon my ear,
the noise of my Horse's feet, and the absorp-
tion, as it were, of all my other senses in that
of vision.

8^ A. M. Reached Macklam s Tavern, Chip-
pawa, three hundred and eighty miles, ti/iving
breakfasted, I set out on foot for the Falls ; the
distance is three miles by the Rf ac, but not

134

THE RAPIDS.

more than two by the line of the River. I fol-
lowed the Banks of the River, having the spray
in sight.

At first I found that I could keep pace with
some drift Wood, but which, on reaching the
first small breaker, or rapid, began to be carried
on faster than a Horse could trot. As I ap-
proached the Falls, the Banks of the River
became higher and higher, owing to the decli-
vity of its bed, for the ground preserves the
same level both above and below the falls. At
the beginning of the great Rapids the River-
bank is at least one hundred feet high.

These Rapids are highly beautiful. There are
those who admire them aia much as the Falls
themselves. They certainly would alone make
a fine picture ; they extend upwards from the
edge of the Fall about eight hundred yards,
and have a declivity in this distance of about
seventy feet, which declivity is very perceptible
to the eye. The bed of the river is here very
shallow, and thickly strewed with rocks, but
which do not appear above the surface, except
those along the north-west edge of Goat Island.
Those who have seen heavy and dangerous
breakers on a rocky sea-coast, may form a good
idea of these Rapids.

From the high bank on which I now stood,
I beheld at my feet a plot of cultivated ground,

" ■ i'

THF BAf»>E>*.

^,1 ,i

yii

If.!' i;

■'^i«rf'

wiore than two by the line of ttie Kiver. 5 fol-
lowed thf> Banks of the Uiver, haviiig-the spmy

in stijht. '

At first Tfotm^iflMW* f«**-'!*k-^ k-<^.p pare with
v»m«» drift- Wootl, l5««it W'-Srtk'ifc"'** 'St. ♦!-'•■•

I^J«^ -wwaH ttfest^ker* t>r rapid, lM«ga» ti'* *«•• tarnt'd
<*» fe»t€*«-th?i,u vt llors^* couM timt. As I ap-
proHche*! thm Falb, the Banks of ihv Eivor
befani? highfrr and hig-her, owing ta the decli-
vity of its bed, for the grovind preserves th<*
same 3evc?l l>oth above and below the iaib. At
tlK» kigintiiDf of the jirreat }la^»4s tne liUvtu-

iHd»n ""^ ■ f^tr-n %:? uividi as the FfiU»

Ijhtffawfri > ^ ."sy certaifily would alone make

a fine [tictnre : they extend upwards from the
%dfe of the Fall abont eight hundred yards,
and Kavf si d#»r!ivilf i« th^ 4iiJta«ce of about
'Ifebtifittlf fe'-'f: whiffk- -rL«=^:^^t'ii«y si^'vii**^ j»«r<:teptiWe

^hrt\\F.-p;, miiii thickly stffiwed t»^ . rs;>»^:«, but
o «*»t Hpjjear altjove the surface, except
t!v4.i*i«i^ *«»*»*^;^^ ^hf nor»h-west edge of Goat lr>land.
1PB«(I* ;v .t'ijn heavy and dangerous

breaker; rdijky *eft-coast, inay form a good

idea of th*-'v.' Hapids.; '•'' ' ;■-■'*' t^fv'' '. -

From tJH* i fh bank on which I now -;tood,
1 beheld at nt^ ^M-t a plot of cultivated gronitd,

.1 .

1 ^ 1^

\\ \'

1 1

P^^

11'

Jill

TABLE UOCK.

135

mills and houses— ^the Rapids — a mill-race
formed in the Rapids — an island dividing them,
and beyond, Goat Island, dividing the River
and the Falls. Descending by a very steep and
difficult road, I came to a deserted distillery,
where I stopped to recover breath, and to allay
my thirst at an excellent spring. I next pene-
trated a close thicket, interrupted almost at
every step by small streams of water ; the roar-
ing of the cataract I took for my guide : emerg-
ing from the tangled thicket, I found myself
upon the Table Rock, and the Niagara River
dashing over it at my feet ! — Vain would be the
attempt to describe my sensations at this mo-
ment ! I was standing on the same rock from
which the river is hurled ; this, rushing at my
feet, and the precipice yawning below them.
To gain a more favourable station, I crept upon
my hands and knees to a projection of the rock,
which, by a sudden curve at this place, was di-
rectly opposite to a huge column of falling
water, if water it could now be called ; — for the
velocity of the current, the resistance of massy
rocks in the Rapids, and the present resistance
and admixture of another element, had lashed
it into foam, white as the driften snow, and so
compact as to resemble a falling body of pure
vegetable cotton. - •

This beautiful column of water, (for so must

I 1

|«

136

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

r ir^

I I
i ;

I A

I call it,) 80 near as to be almost within reach,
and in such bold reiie^io to the rest of tlie Fall,
most irresistibly seized my attention ; my eye
followed it into the profound below, and when
raised, was again attracted, and again plunged
T^ith it into the gulf. Thus, for a time, was I
insensible to my perilous situation : I had crept
upon a projecting slab of the rock, not more, I
believe, than four feet, perhaps less, in thick-
ness, and overhanging the base of the rock
which supported it full fifty feet! This slab has
probably since fallen, as these rocks are con-
stantly caving in, and the cataract receding.
After making good my retreat, I shuddered
at the danger that I had been in, but to which
the absorption of my faculties, by su imposing a
scene, and my eagerness to gain tlie most favour-
able point of view, had not permitted me in the
first instance to advert. I must repeat, that
vain would be my endeavour to describe my
sensations at this my first view of the Cataract
of Niagara — the grandest spectacle of the kind
in the known world ; one of Nature's sublimest
features. A majestic river, suddenly contracted
into less than half its former space, is, after
dashing over a bed of loose rocks, amongst
which it has a fall of seventy-one feet in about
eight hundred yards, precipitated, roaring, as it
were , with very terror, into a dark abyss,

OOAT ISLAND.

137

dashed into foam by its fall, and throwing up a
thick cloud of spray- — a cloud that is seen to
hang over the Falls, by those navigating the
Lakes Erie and Ontario, by spectators one hun-
dre<1 miles distant from each other ! When to
the impression made upon the eye, is added
that made upon the ear, your senses partake of
the tumult of the scene — a scene which seemed
to give me a new sense ; a sense of the vast, the
grand, and the sublime.

The line of the Falls, following the curve, and
the face of Goat Island, is three quarters of a
mile in length ; the River at Chippawa, two
miles higher, is two miles in width.

Goat Island, as already mentioned, divides
the Falls of Niagara into two parts ; but the
great bulk of water rushes down the Canada
side, which has not only more than twice the
breadth of the other, but being twelve feet nine
inches lower, causes a greater draught, inso-
much that in the centre of the Horseshoe, so
called from the curved nature of this Fall, the
body of falling water is supposed to be fifty feet
in diameter, preserving its unbroken blue colour,
being too compact a body to be dashed into
foam. It is from this column of water that
arises the cloud of spray. The Rapids, on the
United States side, begin eight hundred and
fourteen yards, or about half a mile above the

S-f|

I Ilk

f' ll

ll ii)

lii

13R

FALLS OF N I A (i A It A.

Palls ; ill this distance then is a Fall of titty-
seven feet eleven inches, which added to one
hundred and forty-nine feet nine inches, the per-
pendicular pitch on that side, gives a total of
two hundred and seven feet eight inches. The
perpendicular pi£ch on this, the Canada side,
is only one hundred and thirty-seven feet. The
day was highly favourable to a good view of this
noble scene : a bright sun, hid at intervals by
passing clouds, gave a great variety of lights
and shadows, the spray forming an Iris. A
painter might here study to great advantage.

This Cataract, bursting upon the sight, after
forcing a toilsome passage through dark and
dreary forests, and contemplated in the wild
and native dress which Nature gave it, must
have more potently struck the senses, and
roused the feelings of its first visitors, than it
can now do of those who view it surrounded
with mills and houses, and cultivated fields.^

^ " Betwixt the Lake Ontario and Lake Erie, tliere is a vast and
" prodipous Cadence of Water, whicii falls down after a sur-
" prising and astonishing manner, insomuch thut the Universe
" does not afford its parallel. — This wonderful Downfall is about
" six hundred feet, and composed of two great cross-streams of
" water, and two Falls, with an Isle sloping across the middle of
" it. The Waters which fall from this horrible precipice, do foam
"and boil after the most hideous manner imaginable, making an
" outrageous noise, more terrible than that of thunder; for when
" the wind blows out of the South, their dismal roaring may be

1' A L L S OF N I A (i A R A •

139

Perceiving a very heavy thunder-gust coming
on about 3 p. m. I returned to Chippawa, which

" heard more than fifteen leagues (45 miles) nfT. The Niagara
" River, at the foot of the Falli, is a quarter of a league
" (1320 yards) broad." — Father HennepiiCt (Missionary) Tra-
vels from 1679 to 1682, dedicated to King William. — London,
printed in 1698, in 2 vols. p. 533, illustrated with Maps and
Figures,

" As for the Waterfall of Niagara, 'tis seven or eight hundred
" feet high, and half a league (one mile and half) broad. To-
" wards the middle of it we descry an Island that leans towards
" the Erecipice, as if it were ready to fall. All the beasts that
" cross the water within half a quarter of a league (660 yards)
" above this unfor..unate Island, are sucked in by force of the
" Stream. Between the surface of the water, that shelves off
'* prodigiously, and the foot of the precipice, three men may
" cross it a-breast without any other damage than a sprinkling
" of some few drops of water." — Baron La Hontaine^s Travels
from 1683 to 1694. Dedicated to the Duke of Devonshire. —
London, printed in 2 vols, in 1703, p. .'382, illustrated with 23
Maps and Cuts.

Father Charlevoix, who visited the Falls of Niagara in 1720,
judged the Fall to be 140 or 150 feet; the form a horse-shoe, and
400 paces in circumference. Divided in the middle exactly by a
very narrow Island, about half a mite long, which comes to a
point at the Fall. Supposes that some of the water falb into a
Cavern, as the noise is very dead, like Thunder at a distance,
and that nothing re-appears of all that has fallen into it — as the
wreck of a canoe, or the bodies of Indians. At a distance one
would take the mist arising from it for smoke. One cannot go
ten steps vrithout walking upon an ant-hill, or meeting with
rattlesnakes.

It does not appear that Captain Carver, whose Travels in
North America were from 17()<) to 1768, visited the Falls of
Niiiifara; waving any description on account of their having
been so iVrqiiently (loBcrihrd. He, however, says he heard them

l^
^

140

F A h L S OF N' I A (i A R A .

; mt

.■; '\

hi m

] had scarcely readied before tlie storm burst
over liead. At the Cataract, it was a tremen-
dous strife of the four elements for mastery.

• i ' - t

twenty miles off; and that others nsflertcd that the sound of them
reaches 45 miles. Carver gives the Full at 140 feet, and nearly
as much Fall in tlie River between the Fall and Queenstown.

The Duke de Liancourt visited the Falls of Niag^ara in 1795.
He describes the River Niagara as increasing in breadth till it
reaches Chippawa, where it is three miles wide, when the rapidity
of the stream is much increased by the sudden contraction and
inclination of its bed. He then introduces the following fanciful
ubservation: — " Apr^s un pays presque plat, inie chaine de rocs
" tr^s-blancs s'^leve ici aux deux c6t^-s du fleuve, ri-duit ii la
*' largeur d'un mille; ce sont les Monts Alleganys qui ont, pour
*' arriver t ce point, traverse tout le Continent de l'Am^>rique
'• dcpuisla Fioride."

De Liancourt mentions the Fall as 160 feet. lie gives a terri-
ble account of the difficulties he experienced on his descent to the
bed of the Riv^r to see the Falls from below. He «ays one may
go under the Falls, bub does not say that he did go under them.
The description of the Falls from the Table Rock is con'ectly
and admirably given as follows: —

" M. de DIacons nous a conduit d uu point cnnnu dans Ic
" pays sous le nora de Table Rock; c'est une partie du Rocher
" d'oA le fleuve se pr^!cipite, un s'y trouve jl la hauteur dc son
" lit, et presque dans scs caux, de maniere que I'on voit dans
" unc enti^rc s^curit*3 le torrent fondre sous ses pieds, ct qu'on
" y serait entrain^ soi-ui6uie, si Ton avau(,'ait deux pas de plus?
" lA on jouit d-la-fois du beau spectacle de ces euux ecumantes,
" arrivant i\ grand bruit par-dessus les Rapides de cette ^tonnante
" Cascade dont rien nc s^pare, et du Bassin tournoyant ou elle
" s'engloulit. C'est ccrtainement de ce lieu que cette merveille
" de la Nature doit ^trecontcmplee, si on ne vent la voir que d'un
" seul; mais il fuut la regarder de tons les points, et de tons on
" la trouve plus belle, plus merveilleuse, on en est plus ^tonn6, plus
" frapp^ d'admiration, de stupe-faction.

II' I

l" A L L 8 OF N I A U A If A

141

Instead of euting a solitary dinner an 1 ex-
pected, I found a party had collected during
iny absence, consisting of Mr. Murray, of
Chippawa ; Mr. Steadman, of Fort Schlusser ;

" La ChAte de Niagara tie peut ^tre compar^e & rien; cc n'est
" pas de I'agrdable, ni dii daiivage, iii du romantique, ni du beau
" mfirre qn'il faiit y aller chercher ; o'est du iiurprcnant, du
** merveilleux, de cc Hublime qui saiift il-la-fois toutes les facult^s,
" qui »'en empare d'autaut plus profond^ment qu'on le conteniple
" d'avanta^^e, et qui laisse tuujours ceiui qui en est saisi dans i'im-
" puissance d'exprimer ec qu'il f-prouve." — Voyage dims les
Etats-Unit d'Amiriqite, fait en 1795, 1796, ^ 1797. Par La
Hochafoticanld- Liancourt. ii Paris, Van 7 de la Republique.

Weld, who visited the Falls of Niagara in 1796, says, the pitch
of the Fall on the United States side is 160 feet, and 142 feet on
the Canada side; and that their breadth is as follows: —

YARDS.

Breadth of the Horseshoe Fall ■ . . . 6pU

Goat Island 350

the Small Fall 5

the Small Island 30

Fort Schlusser Fall - - - - 350

Total .... 1335
Being fifteen yards more than three quarters of a mile. ,

Weld further says, that though he himself did not hear the
Falls half a mile off, yet that it may be heard forty miles ofF,
nnd that he saw the spray when distant from it fifty-four miles.
He describes the Table Rock as forty feet above the bed of the
River, although it is upon the same level with it. He says that
the Rock is perceptibly wearing away, as the Cataract has re-
ceded many yards within the memory of man; and that the
River was formerly much shallower than it now is. The quantity
of water which passes over the Falls he estimates at 670,255 ton
in a minute. He also <iays, that for some miles after the Niagara
River leaves Lake Eric, its breadth is not more than 300 yards,

1 I

142

( II I I* I' A W A.

;in old Settlement of liis I'uinily 8 on tlie opposite
Hide of the River, including Goat Island and
the South Falls ; Mr. Ogilvy, Merchant of
Montreal, and a partner in the New North West
Company ; Mr. Tough, a clerk of Mr. Ogilvy's;
and James Cuthbert, Esq. Seigneur of Berthier,
in Lower Canada. The three latter gentlemen
arrived in a bateau ; Messrs. Ogilvey and
Tough from the Grande Portage ; and Mr.
Cuthbert, from Detroit.

It added much to the excellency of our din-
ner, that these gentlemen had been fortunate
in fishing, having caught some fine White and
Black Bass. They had been taken with an
artificial fly made of white wax and a peacock's
feather.

In the evening I was introduced to Lieut.
Crawfurd, who commands the garrison at
Chippawa. In my walk from the Falls I col-
lected some of the Mandrake Fruit, or May
Apples. The root I was informed was poi-
sonous.

A Bat having flown into the room, it was
knocked down and a terrier dog set at it, which,
though he would have eagerly seized upon and

and its channel from nine to ten feet deep. Had he visited the
River in this part of its course, he could not have made so great
a mistake, as in the very place where he gives these dimensions,
the river is 1,100 yards wide, and 30 feet deep.

I
I

n I V KR N 1 AC. A K A.

14.1

killed a rat, yet on thJH occasion he loHt IiIm con-
fidence and courage; mouthing and Hliaking
the Bat with great caution and tenderneNH. —
Morning overcast; close tine day. Evening,
heavy thunder-gust.

Saturday, August 23d.

After an early breakfast, the Gentlenn^u from
the Upper Lakes set out for Queenstown, first
giving me a pressing invitation to join them
in a day or two, and accompany them to Mont-
real. This invitation I readily complied with,
as I had otherwise every reason to expect much
difficulty and delay both at Queenstown and at
Kingston ; besides very inferior accommoda-
tions.

At 10 A. M. I embarked with Mr. Steadman
in a bateau for Fort Schlusser. For fear of the
current we poled up along shore for half a mile,
till we came nearly opposite to the Western
extremity of Navy Island, when we took a slant
across the River, being about two miles and a
half above the Falls. The River is here two
miles wide, and was crossed in twenty-five
minutes with three oars.

Navy Island, so named in consequence of the
Fleet for the protection of the Upper Lakes
being built here, contains three hundred and

I 1

ih if

144

(i R A N U E I S L K.

eleven acras, and is situated between the Ea^<t-
ern extremity of Grande Isle and the Canada
Siiore. Grande Isle is said to be twelve miles
in length, and from four to seven in width. It
is excellent land, and well Timbered. Every
kind of Wood, the natural growth of this
country, is to be found there. It is also well
stocked with Deer and other Game.

This, and many valuable Islands, in the St.
Lawrence River, are in dispute between the
United States and Great-Britain.

In the Treaty of 1783, no mention is made of
them, but the division line separating Canada
from the United States, is to follow the main
Channel. Now there happens to be a Channel
on each side of the disputed Islands, and the
contest is, which is the main Channel ? In the
mean time they are left imimproved.

On landing, Mr. Stcadman took us to the
Old Mansion, and gave the following account
of the manner in which this property came into
the possession of his family : —

The Portage, or Carrying-place, which is
now from Queenstown to Chippawa, was, pre-
vious to 1792, from a place opposite to Queens-
town, to Fort Schlusser. In 1760, John Stead-
man was Ma.ster. In 1763, the Indians attacked
the train of waggons and its guard, consisting
in soldiers and waggoners, of ninety-six persons.

FORT !5(MILUSSEK.

145

Of these ninetj'-two were killed on the spot.
Three jumped down the precipice overhanging
the River, and John Steadman, putting spurs
to his horse, galloped to Fort Schlusser. The
three who jumped down the precipice, (consi-
dered by them as certain death, but which they
preferred to the tomahawk and scalping knife
of the Indians,) were preserved by shrubs and
brushwood breaking their fall. One was a
drummer, whose drum falling into the river,
took the news of this defeat to Fort Niagara.

Peace being concluded with the Indians a
few months after this massacre, they, of their
own free will, made a grant to J. Steadman, of
all the land which he galloped over in his flight.
This tract, so granted, begins at Bloody-bridge,
the scene of action, and terminates at Fort
Schlusser ; its extent in depth from the River is
such as to make the whole amount to four
thousand nine hundred and eighty-six acres.
The reason they gave for this grant was, that
they considered his escape as miraculous, and
that this gift was an atonement to him and the
Great Spirit who protected him, for their guilt
in having attempted to kill him. Many of the
Indians assured him, that tliey haa deliberate
and fair shots at him, and that had he been
a deer, he could not have escaped their rifles.

After the Peace of 1783, iho State of New

'r-

n '

14<>

FORT S (} H L H S S F, R .

York laid claim to Mr. Steadman s property,
as being 'within their right to a mile in depth
along the River. Captain Williamson so far
befriended him as to get an Act passed in the
Lower House of the Legislature of New York,
that Mr. Steadman should retain so much of
his property as was improved, amounting to
fifteen hundred acres ; but Mr. S. has little
hopes of his Bill passing the Upper House.
In the mean time some lawless persons took
possession of the property. Steadman, how-
ever, again repossessed himself. In conse-
quence of these circumstances the property has
been suffered to go to ruin and waste: there
still remains, however, an excellent Orchard,
from which its proprietor one year received a
profit of five hundred dollars for the fruit,
besides amply supplying his own family. This
Orchard is sometimes robbed by boys, who
cross the River below the Falls in a canoe.
Fort Schlusser is now a ruin.

We took for our guide to the Falls a Here-
fordshire man, of the name of Coldrakes, who
came to this country with Philip Steadman,
elder brother to the John Steadman already
mentioned. Quenched our thirst at an excel-
lent Spring near the Rapids, which on this
side, also, are very beautiful. After passing the
race of an old Saw-mill, we reached the brink

>perty,
depth
so far
in the
York,

ich of

ng to

little

[ouse.
took
how-

!onse-

ty has
there

hard,

ved a
fruit.
This
who

anoe.

Here-

who
man,
ready
xcel-

this
?the
>rink

W
^

» A f, l*«» '^ F K 1 A I. * R A.

I4rr

.■t* iiwic. |?^'ti»r4%, the Hoj'!*«wsh*>*«

. m> ;ik**vd*^^ :^'htvngU 1 lUiiiitiott

'«••■•* . ^^7^!N«»«* fwM>i <3K? n^m l«>r th« painter,
-' fti^f^m Uu' Um em-fiiktim W \miUmhtr

■«»>{-■■ ,^ r-'""''-^-'' U5 ^-j Mi^w tiie fails, but

• ■''^■•*- •■-'-"■ ..n-.H.*ii 4+1- vv©* tjtefc*'.'' ^Afs no de-

"7"f'^ tjKU-l", i««.'U --fj-il

^' fvwv 'hf Hives
the 'ieafi

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m-i

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•St.

\?;

PALliS OF NIAGARA.

147

of tl»e Fjill. This is certainly the most hand-
some and the most picturesque view of the falls
of Niagara. From thi* point of view the two
Falls blend into one picture, the Horse-shoe
Falls presenting themselves in fine perspective.
I here made two sketches.. Though I mention
this as the best point of view for the painter,
yet the best station for the spectator is undoubt-
edly Table Rock. If the United States side
presents you a more beautiful arrangement of
the scenery, it is only from the Canada side
that you can behold it in its sublimity. It
was ray intention to go below the Falls, but
Coldrakes informed us that there was no de-
scent but by a rope; I considered this mode
as too dangerous, therefore relinquished my
design.

Coldrakes had frequently been upon Goat
Island with Mr. Philip Steadman. The man-
ner of reaching the Island is to cross the River
two miles above, so far as to reach the dead
water occasioned by the Island dividing the
River into two Currents. From the Island a
bar stretches far up the River, which princi-
pally enables yon to reach the Island, as you
pole your canoe along this bar. Goat Island
contains one hundred and iifty acres of good
Land: Mr. Steadman once raised a remark-
ably fine crop of Turnips upon it. It takes,

ri i!^

14U

O O A t ISLAND.

its name from a venerable goat which long re-
sided upon it ; other animals had been landed
at the same time with the goats, but they could
not survive the first winter, when every thing
on the Island is incrusted with ice from the
frozen spray of the Falls.

Coldrakes is assured that much of the Island
has fallen down since he first was acquainted
with it. He offered to conduct mo there, but 1
trembled at the offer ; and was not the better
reconciled to it by his relation of the following
adventure : —

That he and a companion, crossing from Fort
Schlusser, had the misfortune to break an oar ;
from the agonized spectators, help was vain ; —
they saw the boat hurried along by the current,
and put up an ejaculatory prayer for their lost
friends. Life is dear;— and perhaps there is
not an axiom better worth acting upon than
that " whilst there is life there is hope!"

Under similar circumstances, an Indian was
seen to shroud his head in his blanket — extend
himself in the bottom of his canoe — resign him-
self to the mercy of the stream, and dash down
the current ! The most careful search was made
below, but neither the body of the Indian, nor
a fragment of his canoe was to be found. .

The remaining oar was left in the hands of
Coldrakes ; this he instinctively, as it were,

COLDUAKES ADVENTURE.

plied to leeward with all the skill and strength
which his spirits, aroused and quickened by his
desperate situation, supplied him with : fatigue
he felt not — if he had, the moment lost in
changing the oar into his friend s hands, would
have been destruction. Coldrakes' back was
fortunately to the danger, yet he saw no hope
in the stupor of his companion : he perceived,
however, the boat slanting towards the shore.
In shooting the first Rapid she almost fi'led.
Straining every nerve, he brought the beat to
rub the banks y — she took the ground ; — 1 e had
just strength to spring on land ; but when he
cast a wild look at the yawning abyss, roaring
for its prey, he felt his heart sink within him ;
and he afterwards confessed, that had the same
terrors come over him whilst exposed to the
danger, he never should have escaped it.

Coldrakes pointed out to me the spot where
the boat was stopped by a small projection of
(he land ; it is now the entrance of the Mill-
race, and not apparently one hundred yards
above the Falls. Had they passed that par-
ticular point, their destruction was inevitable.

I gathered a few wild plums, of the size of
the damson, but of a reddish orange colour ;
they were lyell favoured. We saw a number of
very large ant-hills, on which a Bear had left
tlu' print of his pjiwiii, and other marks of hiis

I') 9

I" I

I . .

150

11 A T 1" L E N N A K C S.

having searched them lor a fiivourite food.
Their track is very similar to that of a Hare.
Bears live in the clefts of the rocks below the
Falls, as do also Wolves ; and 1 may add
Rattlesnakes, which are found in great number
and extraordinary size. Coldrakes assured me
that he had kille. 1 one having twenty-four
rattles. I never heard of one having more than
eighteen, and very few people have seen them
with as many as fourteen. It is known, how-
ever, that there are few old snakes but what
have lost some of the joints of the rattle by
accidents ; they are very brittle. The usual
antidote for the bite of the Rattlesnake is the
Broad Leaf Plantain. Mr. Wm. Cuyler gave
an Indian a valuable consideration to show him
what his tribe considered as the best antidote ;
the Indian showed him the Wild Solomon's
Seal. Coldrakes said that he knew none equal
to what he called Poor Robin's Plantain, and
which he de?-cribed as only growing in moun-
tainous countries.

Captain Lawton met us at Fort Schlusser on
our return. He re-crossed the River at the
same time '•vith us, but instead of poling up the
shore, he pulled his canoe dirtctly across — an
act of ttmerity in which no one has yet dared
to vie with him. Mr. Steadman remembers
when no boat or canoe dared even venture so
low down as Chippawa.

CHIP 1» A W A V U E UK.

'Wild Fowl, alighting liigli up the river, are
sometimes, in the night, carried down the FallH :
not seeing tlieir danger, they allow the stream
to carry them too fai, its rapidity and descent
not allowing them to take wing. Ducks and
Gulls acquainted with the Falls, have been
seen within one hundred yards of the pitch,
but thev are careful to swim with their heads
down the stream, for with their breasts to the
current, they cannot take wing.

IVIr. Steadman assured me that the Niagara
River increases in depth, and consequently that
the volume of water which passes the Falls is
considerably augmented. Formerly the River
opposite to Chippawa was very low in the
Summer months ; and Mr. S. remembers hav-
ing once seen the bed of the River dry from the
Fort Schlusser side to the bar running from the
South point of Goat Island. The channel in
this part of the River is now fifteen feet in
depth. — Saw a Fishing-hawk with a large fish
in its claws.

In the evening took a walk three miles along
the Banks of the Chippawa Creek, navigable
forty miles for bateaux, and settled the whole
of that distance. This creek divides the town
of Chippawa. — No clouds; powerful sun; plea-
sant air.

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Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716)872-4503

152

FALLS OF NIAOAKA.

Sunday, August 24th.

iK , A-im liM^iliY^

Walked before breakfast to the Rapids ;
spray light and parted. — No clouds ; hazy.

After breakfast rode to Bender's, four miles ;
put up my horse and followed the path to Mrs.
Simcoe s |-ii^dder,* so, called frppti haying been

* " From tlie'fdot of 'Simcoe'a Ladder you may walk along
the strand for aome diatanee witbput iqeonveaience ; but as
you approach the Hprse-Shoe Fall, the way becoipes more
and more rugged. In some places, where the Cliff has crum-
bled down, huge mounds of earth, roeka, and trtes, reaching
to the water's edge, oppose your course ; it seems impossible
to pa#s theni ^ and, indleed, without a guide, a stranger would
never find his way to the opposite side ; for, to get there, it is
nscessary to tafiount nieaily to their top, and then to crawl on
your hands and knees through long dar|( holes, where passages
^ri^ lef^ qpp^i) b(itw|^n the torn-u^ rocks and trees. There is
qothing whatsoever to prevent you from passing to the very foot
of the gfreat Fall ; and you might even proceed behind the
prodigious sheet of water that comes pouring down from the top
of tbeprpoipice," &c. &9^,.^ ^^.^,, ^,, ^^^.^^ j,,„i,„,
" I a(|vanced within about six yards of the edge of the sheet' of
water, just far enough to peep into the caverns behind it ; but
here my breath was nearly taken away by the violent whirl-
wind that always rages at the bottom of the Cataract, occa-
siqo^d by the concussion of such a vast body of water against
the rocks. I confess 1 had no inclination at the time to go
farther ; nor, indeed, did any of us afterwards attempt to ex-
plore the dreary confines of thf se caverns, where death seemed
to awnit hjiQ that should be daring enough to enter their
threatening jaws. No words can convey an adequate idea of
the awf\il grandeur of the scene at this place. Your senses
are appalled by the sight of the immense body of water that

FALLI^ 6V NtAOARA.

15:)

fixed for the convehiency 6f the G6vemoi* of
Upper Canada's Lady tisitihg the f'alls. From
Mrs. Simcoe's Laddet* to the fodt'ofthl^ Falls,
is one mile, which I was oiie hoar' in travers-
ing, owing to the masses of rock I had td
scramble over. ' My first atteknpt was to get
under the arch 6f the Fall, which at the first
view promised me as much 'dUccJess as I had
met with at the Falls of the Genesiee. Vain,
however, was my every effort to get under the
arch of the Cataract t having heard of the
success of others, I did hot easily relin^ish
the attempt. 1 felt myself full as coUiected and
more determined than when I undert6ok to go
under the Falls of the Grenesee, which is no in-
considerable River. Success here appeared to
me physically impossible : the air rushed from
under the arch with so much violence, that I
with difiiculty kept my feet ; and so lotided was

" comes pouring down so closely to you from the top of the stu-
' ' pendous precipice, and by the tliundering sound of the billows
"dashing against the ropky sides of the caverns below; you
" tremble with reverential fear, when you consider that a blast of
" the whirlwind might sweep you from off the slippery rocks on
" which you stand, and precipitate you ipto the dreadful gulph
" beneath, from whence all the power of man could not extricate
" you ; you feel what an insignificant being yon are in the
*' Creation, and your mind is forcibly impressed with an awful
" idea of the power of that mighty Being who commanded the
" waters to flow," — Weld's Travels in America during the Years
1795, 1796, and 1797. London, :W Edit. Svo. 2 vols. 1800.

164

PALLS OP NIAOARA.

i !

it with spray and vapour, that it was with muchi
more difficulty I drew my breath. . ' > ,

When in the Genesee, 1 heard different opi-
nions as to the possibility of penetrating under,
the Falls. Mr. Morris, of Canadarqua, in two
different visits to the Falls, had failed. Capt.

Williamson, Mr. L , and others, I under-

stood, had succeeded.

Respecting these latter^ they must have either
considered the going under a small stream,,
separated from the main River» as going under,
the Falls ; or, that the air does not at all times
rush from the cavity with the same force as,
during this visit of mine. The difficulty atr
tending this enterprize was corroborated by the,
information I afterwards received from Mr..
Bender living near Mrs. Siracoe's Ladder, and
from Lieutenant Crawford, commanding at
Chippawa.. ^ /

Bender, in company with three Settlers, de-
termined as a Sunday's frolic, to go under the*
Falls. After a few ineffectual attempts, one
man very desperately rushed under this liquid
arch, instantly fell, and \nth difficulty crawled
back again : this was the only successful in-
stance that Bender was acquainted with.

Lieutenant Crawford had accompanied four
different parties to the Falls, and there was al-
ways contention who should first succeed in

FALLS OF NIAGARA.

155

getting- under them ; yet, familiarized as he is
to the place, he never succeeded himself, nor
witnessed success in others.

The same features which distinguish the
Great Fall of the Genesee, were repeated here
on a larger scale. The rock was caved'-in,
and consisted of a black rock, as a vast quan-
tity of rock-shiver, like slate-shiver, was ac-
cumulated under and near the Falls ; yet Table
Rock and the bed of the River is limestone,
which extends, as I was informed, many
hundred miles to the Westward, and as far as
the Genesee River to the East. I heard no
Southern boundary assigned to it. I observed
here, as well as at the Genesee Falls, a Sulphur
Spring oozing out of the black rock near the
Cataract.

I met with a dead Snake near the Falls, and
in scrambling over the rocks, started a Racoon.
On my return I met four frolicsome girls, and
two men and four boys fishing ; so that it ap-
pears that the Sunday, even in this remote part
of the world, if not kept as a holy day, is at
least considered as a holiday. One of the men
stood like Patience on a Rock, poizing a spear,
and expecting a Sturgeon ; — the boys, with far
humbler views, were content to catch Pickerel
and Cat-fish. Salmon come up to the foot of
the Falls.

l.^fi

SKETCH OF THK FALLS.

The spray having completely wet me to the
skin, I undressed, and whilst my clothes were
drying, I refreshed myself by bathing ; a fissure
of a rock in which the water entered, served as
an excellent bathing-house. In another rock I
discovered a natural grotto, in which I took
shelter from the sun, whose rays were extremely
scorching, owing to the reflection of the spray,
which at the same time impeded the circulation
of the air. -i ; " . .■>.-> '

The spray extends to a considerable distance
from the Falls ; I felt it the moment I descended
Mrs. Simcoe's Ladder. Seated in the grotto, I
took a sketch of the Falls. From every point
of view below the Falls, they present two dis-
tinct pictures. The best point for the painter,
on the Canada side of the River, would,
I think, be from Bender, provided that a screen
of pines, hiding the Horseshoe Falls, was cut
down. To the spectator there is no view of the
Cataract so impressive as that from Table- Rock.

Before I left the foot of the Falls I shud-
dered when I cast my eyes upwards and beheld
the slab on which 1 had outstretched myself
during my first visit, and which so frightfully
overhung its base. The ground was strewed
with massy fragments of the cliffs which had
fallen down, and a little time would probably
add this to the number.

id,
Hi'

S K K T f^ H or T H r FALLS.

The spray having romplotcly wet, xne to the
i»kin, 1 undressed, and whilst ruy clothes wei^
drying', I refreshed rnftf'Ifhy bathing; a fissurf:
of a rock in which -of^'^'fl, served a«

Ml «.v*r*#*M<»nt ^latbn . „*; v^itipi nH:k,I'

d^'ovt^ft'd a natnnM gw»tr n i Hn^k

»fc**lt«'r fttwfi dw «ia), whose rays wercfixtremely
»f!9rchiiig, owing to the reflection of the »pray,
which at the same time impeded the eirculation
of the air. • ?'

'The !>pray extends to a eonsideranttr! <Ait»tao€e
from the J^^lls ; I felt iJ tht; motneui I. des*;* rwJed

i'K'i 1- -8.14*1, they preseut ivio uis-
rhe h(:^t point for the painter^
on the Canada side of the River, would,
I think, he fronn Bender, provided that a screen
of pin*'*, hidiuiif the. Morisei»hc>t«. Falls, wiw cut
4owii. To the i«|>e(:lator there is no view of the

•.h. 1 ishud-
' .ij>«'aid8 and beheld
outstretched myself
I which. so friwhtfnllv
I'ive ground wfis strewet^
>1 the cliffii whh.h had
. > !e tim^ would prohaKH

I** ■

tinct pu Jures

de-.

the slai
during v.
overhung i-
with massj
fallen down

add this to thr »tu«>b«?r.

11:

■J

T H K FALLS BY M O u N L I O H T. lo7

I gatliered ii specimen of the Black or Under
Rock, another of the Superficial or Upper
Hock,* also, some Spar, and a substance very
soft, and as white as snow, which, rather than
be at a loss for a name, the fisherman told me
was congealed spray ! I now attempted to ex-
plore the shore below Mrs. Simcoe's Ladder,
but after scrambling over a few rocks, I found
the River ran close in with the Cliffs, and con-
sequently was obliged to return. Nothing fur-
ther presenting itself to my curiosity, I ascended
the Ladder very much fatigued, having been
four hours below. From the top of the Ladder
1 took another sketch of the East, or United
States Falls, being a good point of view. '

Met with Mr. Macomb, of New York, at
Chippawa, by whom I sent a few lines to Mr.
Morris, of Canadarqua. In the evening went
and took a Moonlight View of the Falls. — This
day no clouds ; sun very scorching ; hazy.

Monday, August 25th. ' ' "' , • . . *

8 A.M. Left Chippawa; turned ofT the main
road, descended the steep bank, and rode to

* These substances were analyzed, but not accurately, by Dr.
Moyes. The Black-rock was an imperfect limestone, containing
a large portion of clay : it was precisely the same as the under-
stratum of the Genesee Falls. The specimen of the upper-
stratum, which forms the bed of the river, was a very perfect
and pure limestone, Th? white substance was g-ypsum.

T 11 K l< A I' 1 1) H.

the edge ul' the River near the Mill-racu; din-
mounted and remained half an hour to sketch
the Rapids. The eAect wan far more {^rand
than when Meen from above ; it wan a 8ea of
Breakers ! The Fall is ho conHiderabie as to
Nhut out the sight of Land when looking up the
Rapids. I am surprised that painters have ne*
glected the Rapids.

1 could not pass Table-Rock without paying
it another visit. I was now contirmed in iny
opinion, that this view is superior to the view
from below. The air was uncommonly clear,
and the Falls appeared to the greatest advan-
tage. I took a final sketch of this noble

object. .i/ ' . ;, , ,, i„,,: .; ,; ^ ,;; ':'. ■ . -' \ ,,>'K'r\

Bruce dipped his goblet into the Source of
the Nile! — With more humility, but perhaps
with greater thirst, I, on my hands and knees,
drank of the Falls of the Niagara !

Two hours had nearly passed before I had
resolution to leave the Rock ; the greater my
intimacy with the Falls, the more they won
upon my affections.

I was now going to take leave, and perhaps
for ever, of an object, to attain a sight of
which, had been a principal design of mine for
many years ; — an object that for these last four
days had been " my ever new delight!" — an
object that J. O , Esq. a gentleman of

U U K e N H I'd W N.

IftU

the IjUW ill New Yurk, was this Suiiiiuer in-
duced to visit, who, to have a better view of
the FallM, would not deign to dismount, but at
the first sight, exclaimed, *' Is that all?"' and
rode on ! — So true is that trite saying, •* Many
men — many minds !"

Noon ; arrived at Queenstown ; Fairbank's
Tavern, three hundred and ninety miles. The
distance from Queenstown to the Falls by the
line of the River, is eight miles and three quar-
ters : the greater part of this distance is well
settled. I had no view of the River after leaving
Table-Rock. — Buck-wheat Was in flower.

Queeiistown is at the foot of the Table-land.
From the brow of the ridge above Queenstown
the prospect is very extensive; the principal
objects are, the River and Fort Niagara, unless
I include Lake Ontario, which bounds the
horizon to the North-East.

The Niagara is not navigable higher than
Queenstown, consequently ttiere is a portage
from this place to Chippawa, which employs
numerous teams, chiefly oxen; each cart being
drawn by two yoke of oxen, or two horses. 1
passed great numbers on the road taking up
bales and boxes, and bringing down packs of
peltries. Fourteen teams were at the wharf
waiting to be loaded. Here were also three
schooners : in one of them, the Genl. Simcoe,

1(30

SALE OF HORSES.

Mr. Ogilvy, and friends, had taken their pas-
sage, and secured one for me. I here met with
my friend Faudit, of Tannawantee. ^Hna^i^^u
1 gat down to a miserable dinner at Fair-
bank s Tavern, and ajler dinner sent my intro-
ductory letter to Col. Hamilton from his friend
Mr. Bache, of New York, which procured me
an invitation to supper. The goodness of my
supper made amends for the badness of my
dinner. — Col. Hamilton has a good house and
garden. — Very warm day. ; . ,

Tuesday, August 26th.

f f.^,;

Walked to the summit of the ridge before
breakfast; breakfasted with Mr. Clarke; sold
my horses to Mr. Innis for one hundred dollars,
being seven dollars and fifty cents gain. My
horses had very much improved by the journey ;
Lewis was an excellent groom, and had taken
good care of them. I expected at least one
hundred and twenty dollars for the young Bay,
which I had bought at Canajoharee. He would
have fetched two hundred at New York ; vet I
felt myself much obliged to Mr. Innis for giving
me one hundred for the two. The market had
been overstocked ; no other person would buy
them at any price. Mr. Innis did not want
them : he was on the point of setting out for
the Grande Portage, and expected, therefore,

T H K W n 1 U L I» () () L.

IGl

tliat in consequence of their low price he could
afford to pay for their keep till his return.

Gave Colonel Hamilton eighty-eight dollars
and eighty-seven cents and a half in gold for a
Bill at par for twenty pounds sterling, being
John Monroe's first and second of exchange
on Brooke Watson. ;fu: M^.n ,iii!-« . •nu'': v.l *,;! i

Made a party to see the Whirlpool, distant
four miles up the River. 1 was very much dis-
appointed in its appearance, the River being
very low. It was still curious ; and is caused
by a sudden bend in the Channel. The Banks
are remarkably high ; they appear to overhang
the stream, and that a stone dropped from the
cliff would fall into the water. Tempted by
this appearance, I took up a stone, exclaiming,
♦' I will have it to say that I have thrown a
stone across the River Niagara !" I threw, but
I saw no stone fall either on the opposite banks,
or even in the water. Attempts of this kind
were made by the whole party, yet not a single
stone reached the Fiver.

There is every appearance of the Falls having
been once at Queenstown, and their having
worked their way up to their present situation
by the gradual wearing away of the rock for
almost nine miles! Yet Lahontan described
Goat Island above a hundred years Jigo to be
situated where it now is. What a field for spe-

10*2 THE WHIRLPOOL.

dilation ! From the present Falls to Queens-
town the banks are a solid rock, almost per-
pendicular, and I should suppose at least three
hundred feet high.

Colonel Hamilton permitted me to take a
copy of the following Memorandum, given to
him by four gentlemen appointed Surveyors by
the Government of the United States : — *

Feet Inc.

Perpendicular Height of the Rapids above the -i

Great Fall, >

Perpendicular Height of the Great Fall, 149 9

' TOTAL 207 8

Projection of Table Rook, 50 feet 4 inches

West Niagara to the Falls by the Road, 151 miles

Queenstown to Ditto, by the River, 8} ditto

Falls to Chippavra, 2 ditto

Cliippawa to Fort Erie, 18 ditto

Distance from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario,. 35iditto

Breadth of the River at West Niagara, 500 yds.

Ditto at Queenstown, 427 do.

Ditto at the Whirlpool, 236 do.

Face of the Falls following the bend and Goat ) , „„„ ,
, , , ^ r . h 1320 do.

Island three quarters of a mile, >

Datfd Queenstown, Dec. 8, 1789, (signed,)

JOSEPH ELLICOT,
BENJAMIN ELLICOT,
FREDERICK SAXTON,
BENJAMIN RAY.

* In an Extiairt of a Letter from Audrew EU cot to Dr. Rush,
dnfeH Niagara, Decemher 10, I7H9, he jji?es 136 poles, or 742}

IPi

QU EE NSTO W N.

163

The Whirlpool abounds in fish; never freezes ;
and has generally its surface covered with logs,
trees, ice, and such other floating substances as
it draws within its vortex. *

Dined with Mr. Clark, who shewed us fossil
bones, a petrified snake, and a petrified wasp's
nest, presented to him by Mr. Masson, the
King's Botanist, who had collected them in
the vicinity of Lake Erie.

Queenstown contains from twenty to thirty
houses, whose fronts are E. and W. the worst
possible aspect, but which has been regulated
by the course of the River, which is from S. by
E. to N. by W. very rapid, and full of eddies.

On the side of the River opposite to Queens-
town, the Government of the United States
design to establish a Landing ; or rather, renew
the old Portage to Fort Schlusser.* There are

yards for the width of the River at the Falls; so that if both this
and the above account are correct, the curve of the Falls must be
almost equal to twice the breadth of the River.

* Extract of a Report of the Secretary of the Treasury, in
obedience to a Resolution of the Senate of the United States of
North America, relative to Public Roads and Canals; printed in
April, 1808:—

" From Montreal (which is at the head of the Tide- water) to
" Lake Ontario, the ascent of the River St. Lawrence is esti-
" mated at about 200 feet. From the Eastern extremity of Lake
" Ontario, an inland navigation for vessels of more than 100 tons
" burtlien, is continued more than 1000 miles, through Lakes
'' Eric, St. Clair, and Huron, to the Western und Southern ex-

I N T i: N D li U ( A N A L.

at present only two houses there, one of which
is the Ferry-house ; a road being opened from
this place to Tannawantee, distant only thirty
miles.

Another scheme of the Anglo-Americans is,
to do away the necessity of a Portage, by sub-
stituting a Canal in its place : this object can
be best explained by a quotation from Captain
Williamson's Account of the Genesee : — " The
" Fall was found to be three hundred and twenty
" feet from Steadman s Landing (Fort Schlusser)
" above the Falls, to Queenstown Landing be-
♦' low : the distance to be cut (for the proposed
*' Canal) did not exceed four miles, nearly three
" of which is on a level with the navigable part
" of the River above the Falls."

To judge from Captain Williamson's descrip-
tion, the construction of this Canal would be a
trifling labour: he has, however, forgotten to
mention, that these four miles are to be cut
through a limestone rock, full of fissures, which
would make it necessary to line the Canal with

" tremlties of Lake Micliig^an, nithout any other interruption
" than that of the Falls and Rapids of Niagara, between Lake
*' Erifl and Lake Ontario. The descent froni Fort Schlusser to
" Devil's Hole, a distance of four miles, which includes the per-
" pendicular Falls of Niagara, has by correct measurement been
" ascertained at 375 feet. The whole Fall from Lake Erie to
" Lake Ontario, is estimated at 450 feet, making the elevation
" of Lake Erie above tide-water, 660 feet."

T H K GREAT LAKE 8.

tarred plank, or other materials impervious to
the water. — Very sultry day.

Wednesday, August 27th.

4i A. M. Ascended the Ridge ; discovered
two fishermen asleep in the midst of their Cat-
fish and Eels.

As I am now about to take leave of the Nia-
gara River, cross Lake Ontario, and descend
the St. Lawrence to Quebec, — I will previously
offer some description of the Sources of these
Waters.

Whoever casts an eye upon the Map of
North America, must be struck with the gran-
deur of the scale which Nature has there made
use of in laying out her works. Five immense
Lakes of fresh water are seen to occupy a con-
siderable portion of that division of the globe.
Lake Superior, the northernmost and western-
most of these, and the farthest removed from
the Ocean, is, by Sir Alexander Mc. Kenzie,
justly considered as the grand Reservoir of the
River St. Lawrence.

Lake Superior occupies nearly the highest
part of the North American Continent ; for,
with the exception of a few small streams, tlie
Mississippi takes the waters arising to the 8. of
it', the Lake of the Woods tiioso to the N. \\ . ;

Ijl

I0()

'r H K GREAT LAKE ,S.

and Hudson Bay those to the N. This Lake,
which on the most moderate calculation, (that
of Mc. Kenzie's,) is twelve hundred miles in cir-
cumference, and whose area is equal to that of
England and Wales, empties itself at its S.E.
extremity into Lake Huron, a lake little inferior
to Lake Superior itself in size, being estimated
by Carver at one thousand miles in circum-
ference. Lake Huron also receives the water
of Lake Michigan, which on Mc. Kenzie's map
appears the larger Lake of the two. Receiving
these streams at its N. W. angle, Lake Huron
discharges its superabundant waters at its south-
ern extremity into the small Lake St. Clair,
thence they pass into Lake Erie, the smallest
of the four great upper Lakes, though Carver
assigns to it greater dimensions than he does to
Lake Michigan. Lake Erie is not less than
three hundred and fifteen miles in length ;
Carver says three hundred ; and Father Hen-
nepin estimates it at four hundred and twenty :
its greatest breadth is about seventy miles. The
general direction of these Waters have been
hitherto from N. W. to S. E. ; they now take a
N. E. direction till they reach the Gulph of
St. Lawrence, their whole course being up-
wards of two thousand miles, though Carver
and Captain Williamson estimate their course
at two thousand miles ere they reach Lake

N 1 A (i A U A U 1 V li II.

107

Ontario, the last and least of the great Lakes;
yet Lake Ontario is two hundred and fifty miles
in length, and eighty or ninety in breadth.

The Strait which connects Lake Erie witli
Lake Ontario, is called the Niagara River ; and
as I do not know any Traveller who has de-
scribed this most singular River, I will bring
together in this place some few remarks which
I was enabled to make upon it.

Niagara River is in length thirty-four miles ;
its width, at its outlet from Lake Erie, is five
furlongs, or eleven hundred yards, the Current
very rapid, and the Channel thirty feet in depth.
From this place it becomes almost immediately
divided into two majestic streams by La Grande
Isle, which is twelve miles in length, and from
four to seven in breadth. At Chippawa, (sixteen
miles from Lake Erie) the River is two miles
wide, and the Channel fifteen feet deep ; at the
Falls, (eighteen miles) the curve of the precipice
is six furlongs, or one thousand three hundred
and twenty yards ; at the foot of the Falls it is
reduced to one hundred and thirty-five poles, or
seven hundred and forty-two yards and a half,
being suddenly contracted within the deep
rocky Channel, which it has worn for itself to
the depth of three hundred feet, and in length
nine miles, to Queenstown, at the foot of the Ta-
ble-Land. The whole Channel of the River, from

168

NIAGARA K I V L It.

the present foot of the Falls, to Queenstown,
seems to be worked out by the Cataract itself,
which evidently appears to have receded all the
way from Qiieenstown, the first and natural
station of the Cataract ; for from hence upwards
to the Falls the Channel is confined between
Clififs three hundred feet in height, massy frag-
ments of which, as they became undermined,
fell down and strewed the bed of this raging
and unnavigable torrent. The Cataract has,
then, receded nine miles, but who can calcu-
late the ages it has consumed in a progress
which is so slow, that Hennepin, in 1679, de-
scribes Goat Island in its present situation?
Goat Island now contains one hundred and fifty
acres. It was, no doubt, much larger in Hen-
nepin's time. Charlevoix, who made all his
calculations under the mark, said it was half a
mile long in 1720. At the Whirlpool (twentj-
three miles) the River is further reduced, to a
mere span, being two hundred and thirty-six
yards only across. , . ,.;( . ►;?=_'

', At Queenstown, (twenty-seven miles) where
the River escapes from its mural confines, and
enters the Low Councry, it is four hundred and
twenty-seven yards in width, and navigable for
Schooners of ninety tons burden.

At West Niagara, (late Newark, thirty-four
miles) where the River enters Lako Ontaiio, it

N I A (1 A K A R 1 V !•: R.

U't9

is five hundred yards wide, not one-half of the
wdth of its outlet from Lake Erie, nor do 1 be-
lieve that the Channel is even so deep, and cer-
tainly not swifter ; 1 therefore feel well assured
much of the water finds a subterraneous pas-
sage from the foot of the Falls into Lake Onta-
rio. Twenty-seven miles below Lake Erie is
the termination of the Table-Land, which is
marked by a Limestone Ridge, three hundred
feet, and upwards, of perpendicular height. No
part of this ridge, which I saw, was bare or re-
markably steep, but covered with a thin soil and
a growth of timber. To the West and North it
follows the curve of Lake Ontario, towards
York Harbour ; on the other hand it runs due
East. Eighty miles in that direction I met with
it at the Genesee River, which it breaks into
three Falls ; the lower of these Falls is fifty- four
feet deep ; the middle Fall ninety-six feet ; and
the upper Fall must be something under thirty
feet. It appears, then, from the preceding de-
scription of the River Niagara, that the Cataract
which I have already described, does not fall
from a Mountainous Country, as most travel-
lers have asserted, much less from " les Monts
" Allegany s qui ont, pour arriver a ce point,
'* traverse tout le Continent d'Amerique de-
" puis la Floride," according to the Duke de
Liancourt's visionary description, but from one

170

W P, ST NIAGARA.

Hat Country of vast extent, to another flat
Country more lowly situatetl. The upper Coun-
try, for some hundreds of miles, is a vast bed of
limestone, and the soil so thin in places that
trees will not grow upon it. Plains of this kind
I crossed in my way from the Genesee River
to Buflfaloe Creek.

84 A. M. Embarked on board the Governor
Simcoe Schooner of ninety tons, commanded
by Captain Sampson. Pretty good accommo-
dations. Mr. Tough very kindly furnished me
with bedding. In addition to our own party,

were Captain and Mrs. Claus, Mr. ,

and Mrs. Mc. Kay. The ladies had the State
Rooms, of course.

10 A. M. Landed at West Niagara, three hun-
dred and ninety-seven miles, (formerly called
Newark*) the situation is pretty, the Fort new

* This Town was burnt to the ground by the Americans in the
Winter of 1813, deprivin^^ the Inhabitants, during an inclement
Season, of shelter and of food. The British and Canadians
retaliated by burning no less than dye Settlements on the oppo-
site Banks of the Niagara River. So painful are the origin and
tlie events of this unhappy contest to the feelings of the Author
of this Journal, that although the Histories of this War are to
be fouiid in his Library, he has never perused them, and only
now adverts to the subject to say, that as this is the first, so will
it be the last Note that he shall introduce respecting these hos-
tilities. Many of the warriors opposed to each other were per-
sonally known to the Author, and it is to his mind a very painful
recollection, that garrisons in sight of each other, and who had

WEST NIAUARA.

171

and remarkably neat ; it is built on the edge of
a handsome green, or common, which is also
skirted by a few tolerable looking houses.

The Garrison consisted of the Queen's Ran-
gers, and a few companies of Canadian Volun-
teers. Although a very warm day the officers
were playing at fives. The military are upon
good terms with those of the opposite American
garrison.

It was my intention to have crossed the River
for the purpose of visiting Fort Niagara, having
a letter of introduction to Major Revardi, the
commanding officer, but the shortness of our

" reciprocated" civilities aad friendly intercourse, should after-
wards seek each other's destruction. It ought to make nations
cautious how they draw the sword, when they reflect that neither
party in this contest trained permanently one foot of territory ;
and that on negociating; Peace, each party thought it wise not to
discuss or attempt to settle those respective claims which led to
the War. — How admirably does Lady Randolph paint such
scenes : —

" War I detest ; hut war with foreign foes, "

" Whose manners, language, and whose looks are strange,

" Is not so horrid, nor to me so hateful,

" As tliat which with our neighbours oft we wage.

" A river here — there an ideal line

" By fancy drawn, divides the sister kingdoms.

" On each side dwells a people similar,

" As twins are to each other, valiant both,

" Both for their valour famous through the world ;

" Yet will they not unite their kindred arms,

" And if they must have war, wage distant war,

" But with each other fight in oriiel ronflict."

i!.;'i

I7i

FORT N I A (• A li A.

Btay prevented me. We were, however, allowed
to dine on shore. The Tavern was a very bad
one, but we fortunately got a tolerable dinner.

Embarked at sua-set. Came opposite to
Fort Niagara, built on a high point, or bluff*,
projecting into Lake Ontario. This point of
land washes away very fast, so that in a few
years the Fort itself will be endangered. In the
years 1793 and 1794 the Anglo-Americans were
very clamorous that the Western Posts should
be delivered up to them, agreeable to the treaty
of peace of 1783. When these Forts were sur-
rendered to the United States, in conformity
with Mr. Jay's treaty of November 18th, 1794,
the British immediately built Forts opposite to
them, on the Canada side of the Line. What
is singular, the whole of these new Forts are
erected in superior situations to the old ones,
and consequently command them.

The air dying away, we were obliged to take
the Schooner in tow to prevent her drifting on
a Heef running from the Point already men-
tioned. At one time we had not more than
two feet water to spare.

After supper we were furnished with a speci-
men of the good breeding of our fellow passen-
gers. To accommodate the ladies the gentlemen
went on <leck, that they might have the large
cabin to undress in. After waiting: two hours

LAK F. ONTARIO.

173

very impatiently for the «i;rnal that the cabin
was clear, it heing then eleven o clock, I desired
Captain Claus to '•efjuest hii* wife to retire, that
I did not wish to be ki^pt any longer in the rain,
and that early rising made me very desirous of
rest. The surly Captain gave no answer; per-
haps he wished us to take a lesson of patience
from himself. Calling the cabin-boy I sent my
cumpliments to the ladies, that coHite qui coAte
I should in ten minutes go to bed— the gentle-
men having their beds in the cabin.

Warm day ; fine moonlight evening, followed
by slight rain.

Thursday, Auoust 28th.

The Night had been very calm. At 8 a. m.
our distance from West Niagara did not exceed
twenty miles. Had a favourable breeze during
the remainder of the day.

The weather was hazy, yet we had th*;: Uni-
ted States shore generally in sight. We had
fishing lines out the whole day, but did not take
a single fish : nor did we .siee the wonderful
snake. A boat that had sailed from York,
the present seat of Government, unexpectedly
returned again ; the people on board relating^
with great terror, their having seen a great
Snake, at hsisi thirly feet long, whidi, from its

174

L A K F, O N T A II I (>.

rearing its head and fore-part of its body out of
the water, they conjectured meant to attack
them ! All this they deposed on oath before a
Magistrate. The Indians present, who have
always a corroborating story ready, (for in-
stance, the Mamoth Bull,) asserted that their
people had seen ihree such Snakes, and had
killed two!

In North America no Snake that was ever
measured exceeded seven feet. In South Ame-
rica Snakes have been killed and their skins
sent to Europe, in size equal to this great Snake
of Lake Ontario. See Steadman's account of
Surinam.

The Water of Lake Ontario is clear and well
tasted ; we had no other to drink.

The Water of Lake Superior, Mr. Ogilvy
informed us, was still superior.

Friday, Auoust 29th.

■■I

Foggy morning. The crew mutinous. From
ill will to the Captain, they, during the night,
kept the Schooner a different course from the
one directed.

10 A. M. Made land, but which was totally
unknown to the Captain ; supposing, however,
that the crew had designedly over-shot the
Kingston Channel, he ordered the Vessel to be

k 1 N (. S 1 O N ,

176

put about, found his conjecture right, and at
2 p. M. landed us at Kingston, five hundred and
forty-seven miles. I paid two guineas for my
own passage, and one for my servant's. Dined
at a friend of Mr. Ogilvy's.

We here met with much difficulty in procur-
ing a bateau ; at last succeeded, by Mr. Ogilvy
promising that it should be replaced by one of
his own as soon as it arrived, many of his ba-
teaux being momentarily expected.

Mrs. Mc. Kay wished to take a passage with
us, but as, on board the Schooner, she had re-
turned our politeness with incivility and rude-
ness, we informed her that we were already
as many as the boat would conveniently accom-
modate ; but that Mr. Ogilvy would order his
people to give her a passage in the first loaded
bateau that went down. Had I not met with
Mr. Ogilvy, 1 must also have gone down in a
loaded bateau ; i. e. on the top of thirty-six
packs of peltries, exposed to the weather, and
obliged to find my own bedding and provisions.
As it was I partook of the ample stores and
conveniences furnished by Mr. Ogilvy, and in
part by a Mr. Robbins, of Quinte Bay, on the
north coast of Lake Ontario, to the west of
Kingston, who joined our party. — Admired the
situation, but not the town of Kingston; it
contains upwards of one hundred houses.

176

R I V E U ST. L A W n K N C E.

5 P. M. Embarked with a light favourable
breeze.

The Islands are very numerous at the outlet
of the Lake ; en one of these we landed to cut
a mast. They were covered with wood.

Passed eight of Mr. Ogilvy's bateaux going
up to Kingston, to be loaded with peltries.

Night. Wind died away.

Midnight. Our Engagh landed at a red
house thirty miles from Kingston, made a fire,
and put on their kettles, containing a mess of
pork and peas.

The Engages (for so the bateau men are called)
are always French Canadians, the most hardy,
industrious, and cheerful watermen perhaps in
the world. They frequently sing to the motion
of their oars, and always do so in passing other
bateaux, or on approaching a house or village:
their songs are very simple, but very pleasing.

We had four Engages as our regular comple-
ment, and a fifth who was a passenger. Our
party did not quit the bateau ; we had good
beds, and protected by an awning of oil-cloth,
made, for the sake of its portableness, of the
finest Irish linen.

Saturday, August 30th.

Calm morning* Unmoored at 4 a m. The
Engagh plying their oars.

r H li THOUSAND ISLANDS.

177

5a.m. a light favourable breeze gave us an
opportunity of setting sail.

8^ A. M. Landed at a house called Gary's,
where we breakfasted on our own provisions.
Our bateau was not only liberally furnished with
stores, but Mr. Ogilvy had a complete breakfast
equipage and service for dinner. We had with
us the luxuries as well as the necessaries of life.
Having re-embarked, we soon found our-
selves among the Thousand Islands, but whe-
ther more or less, no one is able to decide ;
indeed that person must possess an indefatiga-
ble curiosity who would attempt to number the
Islands in this singular Archipelago. They
consist for the most part of limestone rock,
slightly covered with earth, and giving support
to a few Scrub-Firs, Cedars, and the Hemlock
Pine.

As we were going over very good fishing
ground, we baited a couple of hooks, and soon
caught a black Bass, and almost as soon lost
our hooks, unfortunately the last of Mr. Ogilvy's
stock. — Saw a flight of pigeons, and an eagle.

3 p. M. Dined on board at the outlet of the
Lake of the Thousand Islands, generally called
Cochehatchie Lake, although the Cochehatchie
River falls into the St. Lawrence much lower
down. — The wind breezing up, we carried a
press of sail.

178

L E S G A L () T S.

5 P. M. A gust of rain, which, as usual, killed
the old wind, and introduced a new one from
the opposite quarter. The banks on the Canada-
side thickly settled. No Settlement on the
United States side. ' >' "'■ •>; : rr > ,. - ,jf
7 p. M. Passed Fort Levi, situated on an
Island said to be thirty-five leagues from
Kingston, and the same distance from Mont-
real; though on the maps it is placed much
nearer to the former than the latter.

We had now reached one of those Rapids,
which, under the name of AS'ati/f, are represented
by travellers as so frightful and dangerous. To
these Rapids the French gave the name of Les
Galotsj illuminated by the rising moon, they
made a most beautiful and picturesque appear-
ance. I beheld them with solemn pleasure, and,
confiding in the skill of our Engagisy descended
them without the smallest apprehension. Ob-
served a mill built at the edge of the Rapids.

A great number of American prisoners were
confined at Fort Levi during the war. A party
of them seized a bateau and attempted escape,
but were lost in the Rapids. A fleet of bateaux
were poling and dragging up the Rapids : we
met great numbers in the course of this day and
the preceding night. -

Q\ p. M. Landed at Presqu' Isle, where we
had tea and supper at i; Mr. Shafer's.

LE LONG SAUT.

179

10 p. M. Re-embarked. Midnight ; shot the
Rapide Plat, or the Smooth Rapid. The de-
clivity is here greater than at the Galots, but
the unbroken surface of the water conveys less
the apprehension of danger.

The moon was now obscured, there fell a
very heavy dew, and the wind was a-head.

Le Rapide aux Citrons is marked on the map
a little below the Rapide Plat. I do not recol-
lect noticing it ; probably 1 might be asleep at
the time we descended it. I slept not, how-
ever, when we came to Le Long Saut ; it was
4i A. M. when we hurried down this Rapid with
astonishing velocity. The starboard side of our
bateau almost rubbed the bank, but whether of
an Island or the Main, I know not. 1 was
desired to count the lai^e trees that we could
almost touch as we passed them ; this appeared
no ways difficult, but I was soon dizzy and
confused with the trial. The water was so
transparent as to cause a visual deception ; I
was in constant fear that the bateau would
strike the rocks, which the water appeared
scarcely to cover.

The Saut du Plat I wished longer, but of

Le Long Saut I had quite enough. I did not

like to run so near the bank, and much less did

I like the appearance of larger masses of stone

so near tlie surface of the water.

2 a

itl

HiO

LAKE ST. V R A N ( I S.

On the map a portage of a mile and a half is
here marked, as necessary to convey the loading
of the ascending bateaux. ■ ;

After having passed two large Islands called
Les Deux Fr^res, we then descended a small
Rapid called Le Moulinet, at La Point Ma-
ligne. This river throughout its whole length
is thickly strewed with Islands : we now passed
two considerable ones, Isle aux Bateaux, and
Isle i\ la Barbue.

7i A. M. Reached Cameron's at the head of
Lake St. Francis, where we breakfasted.

While descending the River, a head wind did
not greatly obstruct our progress, as we had a
strong current in our favour : in the Lake the
current was not perceptible ; the wind was
against us, so that it was only very hard rowing
that enabled us to reach Pointe au Baudet at
4 p. M. which being seven leagues from Came-
ron's, was at the rate of a league an hour. —
Cameron's Point was still in sight.

Landed at Pointe au Baudet, and dined at
Captain Mc. Koy's, whose house is built on the
division-line separating Upper from Lower
Canada.. — Overcast; slight rain; wind shifted
to our larboard quarter.

5 p.m. Re-embarked.
• 7 p. M. Reached the Outlet of the Lake,
which Lake is thirty miles long, and from two

R A P I D E D E S C E D R E S.

181

to six miles in width. Having again entered
the River, we descended Le Saut dii Coteau dii
Lac, or the Rapide du Coteau St. Francois.

I forgot to mention in its place, that Lake
St. Francis is very shallow, interspersed with
numerous and large Islands, and \?Lrge fields of
rushes appearing above water. It is easily
affected by the wind, and subject to storms.
We saw a few Loons, and passed a great num-
ber of bateaux bound up to Kingston for a
lading of peltries.

9 P.M. Landed at Le Coteau des Cadres, a
small village three leagues from the outlet of
Lake St. Francis. — Drank tea at a French
Lady's, the fat and chatty Madame Charr6.

Disliking our quarters at the Tavern, we at
10 p. M. adjourned to the bateau. Not being
able to compose myself to sleep, and observing
that Mr. Ogilvy and the Seigneur of Bertheir
were as restless as myself, I proposed a moon-
light ramble to the Rapids, whose waters were
roaring in our ears. The moon shone " ma-
jestic on high," which, together with a wood
burning most fiercely on one of the Islands,
gave a grand effect to the Rapids, which are the
most considerable of any in the River.

Clouds of spray were thrown off by their
concussion against the rocks, and this formed
another great beauty to the scene. A Mill is

182

RAPIDE PES CEDREM.

:i.

most admirably situated near this spot ; I never
saw so good a Mill-Dam and Mill-Race, and
yet art had little or nothing to do with it ;
indeed art never designed any thing so perfectly
adapted to the purpose.

The Rapids make a portage necessary here
of a mile and a half. Near the Mill, are remains
of fortifications. I counted twenty-four bateaux
laying at the Wharf, bound up the River.

Midnight ; returned to the bateau highly de-
lighted with our ramble. — Came on a heavy fog,
owing apparently to the spray.

Monday, September 1st.

5a.m. Began to descend a string of Rapids,
which fol' : <v each other in immediate succes-
sion ; to wit, the Rapide du Coteau des Cadres,
Saut du Buisson, and the Cascades, or Sautdu
Trou, but which are generally (all together) de-
signated by the name of the first and principal
Rapid : their united length is about two leagues,
and are by far the most formidable and dan-
gerous of any in the River, being the only Rapids
in the St. Lawrence, which the Engages dare
not venture down in the night.

As soon as we had reached the foot of the
Rapids, the Engagh drew in their oars and
left the bateau to the mercy of the current,

I, A K K H T. L U I S.

18;}

which whirled her round and round from eddy
to eddy, appearing like so many immense boil-
ing cauldrons, and very frightful ; — not so
thought the Engagh, for these men were scream-
ing with all their might, in conformity to an old
custom, that they had escaped the danger of the
Rapids. Near this spot is the Split-Rock,
through which is a short canal, or rather lock,
used by the ascending bateaux.

We were scarcely clear of the Rapide des
Cadres before we entered the Lake of St. Louis,
formed by the junction of the St. Lawrence
with the Uttawa or Grand River, which not
only exceeds the St. Lawrence in length, but
brings down with it a greater body of water.
Properly speaking, the River which we des-
cended from Kingston, is the Cadaraqui ; and
it is the junction of the Cadaraqui with the Ut-
tawa which really forms the St. Lawrence.

All the goods sent from Montreal to the
Grande Portage, at the head of Lake Superior,
and from thence up the .north-west country,
take the route of the Uttawa River. Previous
to the Uttawa reaching the St. Lawrence, it
spreads into the Lac des deux Montagnes, part
then comes round the south-west end of the
Island of Montreal, and enters Lake St. Louis
in two channels formed by the Island of Perrot,
which is a considerable Island well cultivated
and fully inhabited.

1U4

LA f H I N E.

The principal outlet of the Lake of the Two
Mountains is by the two Rivers of St. John and
Des Prairies to the westward of the Island of
Montreal, and formed by this Island and the
Island of Jesus : these rivers or channels unite
at the northern extremity of Montreal Island,
and meeting with the River de I'Assumption
from the north-west, fall into the St. Lawrence
au Bout de I'lsle.

Whilst rowing across the Lake, the fog, which
the rising sun had dispersed, came again to hide
any beauties this scene might otherwise hav >
disclosed. One very strange effect it howevt-r
produced : a raft navigated by a number of meri
loomed, in so odd a manner that we had not a
person in tiie bateau who did not mistake it
for a large Island covered with trees !

Observed on the east banks of the River the
village of Cachenonaga, inhabited l>y what are
called civilized Indians converted to liie Chris-
tian Faith. This part of the River is very rapid
and very shallow.

10a.m. Landed at La Chine, the bateau
from the shallowness of the River not being
able to descend the Rapids to Montreal. La
Chine is nine leagues from Le Coteau des Cedrcs,
and three leagues to Montreal.

Not being able to procure a calash, I waited
till 1 p. M. when Mr. Tough and I took the stage,
and at 3 i*. m. were set down at Dillons Hotel,

ill

M () N T R K A L.

\Ho

Montreal, two imndrcd and ten miles from
Kingston, and seven hundred and fifty-seven
from Albany, by the route which I had taken.

We had a pleasant ride along the banks of
the River from La Chine. The opposite side of
the road was thickly settled, every house in the
centre of a large orchard, loaded with fruit.

4 p. M. Dined with Mr. Ogilvy. In addition
to our river party, were his partners, the Firm of
whose house is, " Parker, Gerrad, Ogilvy and
Co." In the evening Mr. James Cuthbert intro-
duced me to his brother Mr. Ross Cuthbert ;
Mrs. R. Cuthbert, who was a Miss Rush,
daughter to Dr. Rush, of Philadelphia ; and to
his sister, Miss Cuthbert. — Evening, heavy thun-
dergust ; rain in the night.

Tuesday, September 2nd.

Enclosed Mr. Bache'a letters of introduction
to Joseph Frobisher, Esq. and to Mr. John
Gray. Breakfasted at Mr. Cuthbert's. Intro-
duced by Mrs. Cuthbert to Mr. and Mrs.
Mc. Tavish ; at the same time paid my respects
to Mr. and Mrs. Liston, who had arrived at
Montreal the preceding evening, and were Mr.
Mc. Tavish's guests. Met a large party here,
who had assembled to pay their respects to the
British Minister and his Ladv, and to whom I

lOrt

MONTREAL.

!ft'

WH.4 introduced ; namely, Sir Joiui and Ludy
Johnstone, Dr. Selby, and Mrs. and Miswen
Ogden.

Permisnion being granted Mr. and MrH. Liston
and friends to visit the French Seminary of

, and the Convent of the Hotel Dieu,

I, through the kindnesH of Mrs. Cuthbert, made
one of the party. All that I observed at the
Seminary was, that the Priests were well lodged,
had a Library well stored with Theological
Tracts, and what appeared to afford them as
much pleasure, a garden abundantly stocked
with fruit. Whenever a tree began to decay, a
tin plate was nailed over the sorCf which gave
the old trees a most veteran-like appearance, as
though they had undergone the surgical opera-
tion of the trepan.

The Nuns received us in the Refectory, un-
veiled ! All my romantic ideas of a Nunnery
instantly fled. The greater number were old,
and not one of them could be called handsome :
their dress was very unbecoming, and very
coarse. We were shewn all over the Convent,
even the private cells of the Nuns; most of
these cells had a motto over the door, the most
general one was, " ^ Dieu seulT — I entered
one which appeared among the neatest ; it was
lighted by a small window, contained a small
betl, a chair, a small chest of drawers, a toilette.

TH E N t' N N r: H Y.

I»7

a .small crucifix, and a tow Htuall religious
priiilH. *• t , <• • .i

1 w s the only one of our party who did not
speak I'rench, one; of the livelieut of the Nuhh
was the only one who could speak English;
she therefore kindly attached herself to me.
Our conversation turned upon the Institution ;
I made my observations freely as they occurred
to my mind ; they were taken in good pari, and
retorted with much »pirit and some share of wit.
On bantering her on the cowardice of retiring
from the world, when there was more merit in
resisting its temptations, than in secluding one's-
self from them, she quickly replied in a French
proverb, " Si nous somnies hors de la bataille,
nous ne smnmes pas hors du combat." A smile,
which I could not conceal, showed how well I
understood her. The only method of revenge
she took was to talk to rae afterwards in
French.

We next visited the great Roman Church ;
what I was most struck with, as being to me
perfectly novel, was a person going about with
a large basket full of bread, and cut in very
small pieces, of which the greater part of the
congregation took two or three pieces and eat
them during the service.

Received a visit from my old friend and
fellow-passenger. Captain Mc. Kenzie, late of

uf.2

2 IJ

{'■

■ft i

i:i

188

MONTREAL.

tho (lOth, now of the 41st. — Dined and passed
the evening at Mr. Cuthbert's. — Overcast and
showers.

Wednesday, September 3d.

Breakfasted at Mr. Ogilvy's ; returned Mr.
Gray's and Captain Mc. Kenzie's visits ; in-
troduced to Lieutenant Derenzy. Took a walk
with Mr. James Cuthbert, and went on board
the ship Euretta, of three hundred and sixty
tons, and the Montreal, of four hundred tons ;
this latter was built at Hull. The Euretta has
better accommodation for passengers than 1
have ever yet seen on board any vessel.

These vessels lay close along shore ; there is
no necessity for a wharf; the goods can be
rolled on board on planks: yet deep as the
Channel is at this spot, there is scarcely water
for a bateau a few yards above.

We had a very fine view from the Citadel
and the Champ de Mars.

1 was introduced to a veteran of one hundred
and eighteen years of age! He had served in
the battle of Malplaquet, and was at the con-
quest of Canada under Wolfe and Amherst.
He was bent nearly double, but could walk
with the aid of sticks.

Dined as Captain Mc. Kenzie's guest at the

^\ () N r u r. a l.

1U9

nu'ss-room of the 4l8t, Tea at Mr. Ogilvy's ;
lu^companied him to the coffee-rGom, to attend
a sale of horses ; introduced by him to Mr.
Mimro, of Quebec. Supper at Mr. Cuthbert's. —
Clear pleasant day ; wind N. W.

Thursday, Ski'tember 4th.

Dined with Mr. Frobisher at his country-
house : the party was a numerous one ; among
the rest, Messrs. Mc. Tavish, Lees, Henry,
Todd, Machel/tj and Captain fioyd, of the
Montreal. Evening at Mr. Cuthbert's. — Heavy
rain the greater part of the day.

Friday, September 5th.

A party of my friends took me the tour of
the mountain on horseback. The summit af-
forded a fine view of the Country, the River,
and the Town ; the latter a most dazzling ob-
ject, owing to the roofs of a great number of
the Houses and Churches being covered with
tin as a preventative against fire ; for the same
purpose iron plates are nailed over the doors
and window-shutters, which, together with these
buildings being of stone, it is to be supposed
would pretty eftectucally secure thorn from fire,
yet few towns h;ur suffered moro from this
ralamitv.

if4

"S ■'

190

M O N T It li A L.

Owing to the trees which cover the wliole
summit of the mountain, our prospects were
chiefly in a direction towards Montreal and the
St. Lawrence ; to the W. and S. W. our views
were very confined. This mountain has given
its name to the town, whose real name is Ville
Marie.

I was not content to visit the mountain in
the usual way, but rambled up and down every
path in search of new openings, for it would
be difficult to imagine finer scenery than that
which it embraced : it had all the grand features
of landscape — wood, water, and distant moun-
tains; those of Vermont were clearly distin-
guishable.

Dined at the Hotel as the guest of tiie cele-
brated Alexander Mc. Kenzie, known here by
the name of " Nor west Mc. Kenzie." He and
his party are the only successful adventurers
who ever penetrated across the Continent of
North America to the Pacific Ocean. Mr.
Mc. Kenzie had no less than thirty of his
friends at table. — Passed the evening at Mr.
Cuthbert's — Pleasant clear weather.

i i

Saturday, September 6th.

Received a letter of introduction from James
Ciithbert, Esq. to Lieut.-Col. de Chambault,
A. DC. i\ son Excellence leGouverneurMilnes,

V A U K N N K.

h Quebec ; and from Mr. Ogilvy a letter to in-
troduce me to his partner, Mr. John Mure.

Captain Me. Kenzie introduced me to Capt.
Frende, of the 41st, who was going by water to
Quebec, and who obligingly offered me a pas-
sage. The party consisted of Captain Frende,
Lieutenant Hall, three Serjeants, one Corporal,
and twenty-three Privates ; also, eight Canadian
Engagh to manage two of the King's bateaux,
freighted with £.30,772, Halifax currency, or
£.27,694 16*. sterling in specie.

1 had taken care to lay in a basket of wine
and porter ; Capt. Frende had done the same,
with the addition of provisions and groceries.
At noon we pushed off from the Barrack Wharf,
with a fine favourable breeze and clear plea-
sant weather : both banks of the River thickly
settled.

Noon till 1 p. M. Passed two or three Churches
and Vill. ges ; to wit, Longueil, E.* — St. Fran-
cois, W. — Bouchervile, E.

li p. M. Pointe aux Trembles, I'Enfant Jesus
Church and Village, ten miles and half.

2 p. M. Saw the large double-towered Church
at Varenne, a considerable Village on the E.
side of the River, fifteen miles. Passed two
considerable Islands in this part of the River,
the Isle Commune, and Isle Therese.

* W. and E. denote whetlior on tlie AVcst or Eusl Side of (lif
IJiver.

f"1

hi
■i

102

LA V A LTE R I K.

2 J p. M. Bout de risle, (de Montreal) iifteeii
miles. ■ • ^ ... . -i '. . :: ., ,,.;.-...

- 2i P. M. Church and Village of Repentigui,
W. eighteen miles.

3i p. M. Chi-rch and Village of Verdheres,*
E. twenty-one miles.

4 p. M. Church and Village of St. Sulpice, W.
twenty-seven miles.

5i p. M. Church and Village of La Valterie,
W. thirty-four miles ; prettily intermixed with
groves of trees near a small Island ; hay-making
along the banks of the River, being the second
crop.

7i p. M. Church and Village of St. Joseph
de la Noraye,t forty-four miles.

8 p. M. Landed at a small cottage within five
leagues of Lac St. Pierre, forty-seven miles.
We had now run forty-seven miles in eight
hours, for which we were more indebted to the
current than to the wind, which gradually died
away.

We landed in the expectation of dining more
comfortably on shore than on board : the cot-
tage was, however, so scantily furnished, that
it could only supply us with a table and a table
cloth, which from being ourselves so well pro-
vided, we could not consider as a disappoint-
ment to be regretted. The reason of our dining

* The Canadians pronounced tins word Vacf-'<:re.
t In a Canadian Almanack this is written D^Autrey.

\ i.

II N' W H L V. S O M K V () C.

UK]

80 late was, that the Soldiers and Engages might
at the same time prepare their suppers. Indeed it
is necessary that the Engagh should land three
times a day to boil their kettles ; they are seldom
at a loss for wood, and soon strike up a fire.

9 p.m. Re-embarked. Clear moonlight night.
Fell asleep ; and at 10 p. m. awoke by a sudden
shock produced by the bateau taking the ground.
The fog was so uncommonly thick that we
could not see ffom one end of the bateau to the
other : thus were our hopes to cross Lake St.
Pierre by moonlight, frustrated, and thus un-
comfortably situated were we obliged to pass
the night. This fog apparently was of the most
unwholesome nature ; heavy, clammy, and pos-
sessing a most disagreeable burnt smell ; it was
also very cold, and there not being a breath of
air, respiration was very difficult. The Soldiers
were the principal suflerers, as onr end of the
bateau was covered with an awning.

Sunday, September 7th.

b\ A. M. We were now enabled to see our
situation : instead of being, as we supposed,
aground on some of the marshy islands, which
block up, as it were, the entrance of Lake St.
Pierre, we found ourselves within oar's length
of the W. shore, and a cottage hard by : it was
too late to regret our being so long ignorant of

1})4

M A I) A M E U K F K L T K R I E.

I 'III

this circumstance, yet we did regret it, and
severely too. The fog was still heavy on the
waters, and having no wind, we rowed till
6i A. M. when we landed at Pierre de Pelterie's,
seven miles below Berthier, and three miles
from Lac St. Pierre, being in the whole fifty-
five miles. It appears, therefore, that we had
passed the night within two or three miles of
Berthier, the residence of my friend, James
Cuthbert, who possesses the Seigneurie.

Breakfasted upon our own provisions, with
the addition of some milk and eggs, which
Madame de Pelterie was so obliging as to
borrow for us, Indeed this lady was in the ut-
most distress : the property they lived upon was
disputed by the two neighbouring Seigneurs,
and all their goods had the preceding day been
taken from them and sold for the benefit of a
creditor. Tears ran down her cheeks as she
told her story ; she possessed a very genteel
address, and had the remains of beauty. We
were astonished to see such a woman a pea-
sant's wife.

8 A, M. Re-embarked ; the fog still hanging
over the waters. The channel of the River is
here contracted by the Isle du Pas ; as it was,
opposite to Berthier, by that and the interme-
diate one of Isle au Castor ; indeed, if it was
not for these Islands, and those of De Richelieu,

U '

T R O 1 S RIVIERES.

19o

oil" tlu' inoiitli of the River Sorei, the entrance of
Iho liiikc would be about a mile below La
Noraye. At Berthier the River Au Chicot falls
into the St. Lawrence, a small stream.

9 A.M. Entered Lake St. Pierre, fifty-eight
miles, abreast of the Bay of Atocas, and the
Masquinongez River, which appears a consi-
derable one. The wind blew <lirect a-head from
the N. E.

10 A. M. Abreast of the River Au Loup.

11 A.M. The sky overcast, the wind in-
creased, and the waves ran so high, as to make
it extremely difficult to pull against them ; so
that I had worse luck in crossing this Lake than
that of St. Francois.

Noon ; abreast of Pointe Machiche, dividing
the Great River Oua-Machiche from the Little
River of Oua-Machiche.

2 p. M. Abreast of Pointe du Iiac, seventy-
nine miles. Lac St. Pierre is seven leagues in
length, and four in width, Pointe du Lac being
its north-eastern extremity.

3 i». M. Dined on board.

4 1 p. M. Landed at the Town of Trois Ri-
vieres, eighty-eight miles. I was much disap-
pointed in the appearance of this Town : as it
ranks immediately after Montreal, is situated
on a very considerable River penetrating far
back into the north-west country, being also

2 c

.1 :

imi

B K t: A N (; O II K T.

one of tlif! oldest and favourite Settlements of
the French, and withal lying midway between
the two principal centres of industry, com-
merce, wealth, and power, I must confess that
I did expect to see Trois Rivieres partake of
these good things ; but of industry and wealth,
I saw no indications ; of power we saw one spe-
cimen, but it was power abused. We might
have been something very curious, or very wel-
come, to judge from the crowds who flocked to
\vitne8s our disembarkation ; — we were neither !
It was a Sunday evening. The good folks had
said their prayers ; were too well dressed to
stay at home ; were wandering to and fro for
an object to occupy their attention; and we
presented ourselves opportunely to dispel their
listlessness. One of the Soldiers being sick,
we left him here under the care of the Captain
Commandant.

The River St. Maurice enters the St. Law-
rence by three embouchures ; this circumstance
has given name to the Town of Trois Rivieres.

5i P.M. Re-embai-ked.

(>i Sunset. Abreast of the Church of La
Madeleine, N. W. On the opposite shore is
the Village of Becancourt, on the River of the
same name ; formerly the Grande Riviere Pu-
ante, the Petite Riviere Puante falling into the
St. Lawrence somewhat lower down.

C H A M 1' L A I N .

107

II'

81i p. M. Landed at the Village of Champlain,
one hundred and six miles. Our accommoda-
tions were so good that we even procured tea,
(not much known among the Canadians.) I
got a good bed. The Military were obliged to
guard the dollars.

Our motive for landing at Champlain was the
opposition we met with from the flood tide.
The tide is, I believe, perceptible at Trois
Rivieres, perhaps higher, but certainly not in
Lac St. Pierre.

Monday, September 8th.

2 A. M. Embarked ; clear moon ; what little
wind was stirring was direct a-head.

3 A. M. The wind breezing up made it very
difficult rowing.

3i A. M. Pass the Village and River of Ba-
tiscan ; one hundred and twelve miles. Pass
Village of Bequet, E. and Village and River of
St. Anne, W. one hundred and twenty-two
miles.

5^ A.M. The wind had now become so strong
that, rather than waste our strength to little or
no purpose, we landed at a point of land on the
S. E. side of the River in St. John's Parish,
one hundred and twenty-six miles. This part
of the RivtT is full of daniferous rocks, which

•'Si

! '

198

'IH i: U It I D E.

extend from both banks of the River to the
Ship Channel, and of which the greater number
appear above the surface at low water. In con-
sequence of these rocks we had much difticulty
in landing.

Having gained the beach, we looked out for
some path by which we might climb the steep
and wooded bank whose almost perpendicular
side appeared as if it would baffle any attempt
to penetrate into the country. We were not long
in finding a footpath which led us through a
winding gully to the top of the bank, and
thence conducted us to a cottage, where the
poverty of its inhabitants disappointed our ex-
pectations of a breakfast.

At the next cottage we met with, we were
more fortunate. We were provided with milk,
eggs, and bread ; there was also a large apple-
pie, but its appearance was not sufficiently
inviting. Upon this expedition I had been
obliged to brush up my old French as inter-
preter to the party. I had hitherto been content
merely to proclaim our wants ; but seeing at
this early hour a young girl standing before a
bit of broken glass, in a linsey-woolsey petticoat
and without gown, most assiduously decorating
her hair with powder, pomatum, and ribands,
I asked her if those were not her bridal orna-
ments? — " Alas ! (said the mother) " she is in-

THE MARRIAGE.

lao

" deed going to be married ! She is too young ;
" she is scarcely sixteen : we want her to wait
*' a year or two, but young girls think it a fine
" thing this matrimony !" — Neither this mourn-
ful speech, nor our presence, could for a moment
withdraw the damsels attention from the deco-
ration of her head ; but the entrance of a young
clown had a very different eflect, as, without
ceremony, he went up and saluted her at her
toilette. The youth appeared to have made no
alteration in his usual dress : her's was confined
to her coiffure ; for, without putting on a gown,
she immediately accompanied him to the door,
and, after kissing her mother, drove off in a
calash to church.

In my ramble after breakfast I saw a church
and four calashes at the door. On entering it
I was disappointed in my wish to witness the
marriage ceremony : it was performing behind
the altar ; I could hear, but a screen prevented
my seeing. The church was small, but its or-
naments most richly gilt.

I now descended to the beach. The Engages
had made a large fire, and were employed in
boiling their pot. The Soldiers had also made
a fire. Having nothing better to do, I deter-
mined to make one for the Officers. There
being great plenty of drift wood and dead
branches, ! had soon, 'vith Lieutenant Hall's

•i

Ji N

'«<l

iiil

■a

\ '• '

t '

%\,

!»00

THE R O (•' H E L I E U.

tiHsistance, piled up a very lartje one. Tlio
next consideration was, what was to be don<i
with the fire now that it was made? One of
our foragers opportunely came in with his hat
full of apples and eggs, which we roasted —
the latter in sand thrown into the fire for that
purpose.

We found some curious stones on the shore,
some in the shape of the block of a pulley, and
others resembling a tortoise. Captain Frende
shot a wood-pigeon. Having discovered an
excellent spring of water almost at low- water
mark, I filled a few bottles of it that we might
enjoy a good glass of brandy and water at
dinner. We dined on the beach, a flat rock
serving for table.

1 p. M. Being high water and the wind having
fallen, we re-embarked.

2 P.M. Passed the Village, Church, and Mill
of Grondine, on N. W. side.

3 P.M. Passed the Church and Village of
Lothiniere, on S. E. side.

3iP. M. Pointe de Charabault, N.W. side.
The Rocks had now become more numerous
and dangerous, the water raging over them in
a frightful manner, forming a Rapid called by
our Engagh the Rochelieit, but marked on the
map Saut in Bic/te. Any person seeing this
place at low water, or even us we now saw it.

<; A V i: s A N T v..

•201

would think il impossible that a sliip of i\mv
hundred tons could pass up sucli Rapids.

5 F. M. The wind again opposed our further
progress down the River. We took shelter
under the lee of Pointe Platon, in St. Croix
Parish, S. E. side, one hundred and forty-five
miles. The tide was falling very fast ; some
rocks, which we had actually rubbed over, ap-
peared with their heads above water before we
reached the shore; so that, had we been five
minutes later, tlie ebb would have left us on
the rocks at least half a mile from the beach.
The reef stretched half way across the River.

Our host having a large weir in the River,
was enabled to give us some fine fresh eels for
supper ; after which we ourselves were served
up to the fleas.

Captain Frende an(i Lieutenant Hall held
alternate watch. The Engages and the Soldiers
kept up a blazing fire on the beach all night.

'''^1

Tuesday, September 9tli.

It was high water at midnight, but the weather
was too boisterous to permit us to embark before
2 a.m. The wind had now fallen and shifted
to the N. ; it was very cold, there having been
a smart frost in the night

3 A. M. Cape Sante, N. W. one hundred and
forty-eight miles.

' n

•202

<; A V K D 1 A M O N I).

II' !

I I

f1 i

4 A. M. Passed the mouth of the Jiacques
Cartier River, N. W. one hundred and fifty-two
miles and a half. » ^ ^ ■ .. ....

5 A. M. Pointe aux Trembles, N. W. one
hundred and fifty-seven miles.

6i A. M. Church, Village, and Mill of St
Augustine, N. W. one hundred and sixty-four
miles and a half; the CI "^ch and Village of
St. Antoine de Tilly was also visible on the
S. K side.

7 A. M. The tide having failed us, we landed
in Cape Rouge Bay, on the N. W. side, one
hundred and sixty-six miles. It was with great
difficulty that we could find a passage among
the rocks to the shore. After scrambling up the
steep cliff", we made up to the first cottage we
saw, but which could not furnish us with break-
fast. At the next cottage we visited we pro-
cured both tea and eggs, and milk of course.

After breakfast we all busily employed our-
selves in adorning our persons preparatory to
our entree into Quebec.

11 A.M. Re-embarked; the tide still rising,
the weather calm, and a scorching sun.

11^ A. M. The Church and Village of Cape
Rouge, N. W. one hundred and sixty-nine
mik's.

INoon ; dined on board. Came in sight of
Cape Diamond — the Shipping at Quebec —

QUEBEC.

20.3

Poinl Levi, and the Island of Orleans ; shewn
the Cove (called Wolfe's Cove,) where Wolfe
landed his men, and the Cliff they scrambled up
to gain the Heights of Abraham.

li p. M. Abreast of Quebec, one hundred and
seventy-eight miles.

2 p. M. Capt. Frende, Mr. Hall, and I. landed
at the Dock Yards, and immediately directed
our steps to Harrald's Coffee-House, where we
took up our quarters. I now announced my
arrival to my friend Cripps : he soon joined us,
and introduced Mr.Coltman, of Beverley, York-
shire. Frende and I now parted : never man was
more happy to receive thirty thousand pounds,
than he to get rid of it. What pleasure he
took in the expedition was enjoyed (unless
the dollars were under his eye) with fear and
trembling. Neither he nor Lieut. Hall could
compose themselves to sleep the previous night,
so much were they haunted with the spectre of
vanished dollars and deserted soldiers.

Having gratified the first object of my cu-
riosity in traversing the different streets of the
city, and walking round the ramparts, I drank
tea with Cripps at Mr. Macnider's, where he
had lodgings. After tea, Cripps being engaged,
Mr. Coltman undertook to conduct me to those
fields of action so creditable to British heroism
— so celebrated in British history.

2 D

204

H E 1 (1 H T S OF ABRAHAM.

Descending to the Lower Town, we visited
the Wharfs, the King's Docks, and the Shipping.
With the advantage of a deep channel, they
have a tide here which rises from twelve to
eighteen feet. Leaving the town, I reached the
spot where Montgomery fell ; it was between
the first and second barrier, the River on the
one hand, and the almost perpendicular Cliff of
Cape Diamond, (three hundred and thirty-seven
feet in height) on the other, with a mere foot-
path between; even now, that a part of Cape
Diamond has been blasted for the purpose, it
forms but a narrow street.

The Rock of Cape Diamond is very hard
before it becomes exposed to the action of the
weather; it then shivers and grows soft, and
much resembles the slate-rock at the Niagara
and Genesee Falls. As there is a beaten path,
we had no difficulty in ascending Cape Diamond.
I had now got footing on the memorable Heights
of Abraham. The spot is marked where Wolfe
fell, but it was too distant for us to visit this
evening. We made the Tour of the Fortifica-
tions, and re-entered the Lower Town by a
route by which a second party of the Americans
gained entrance, and are said to have penetrated
as far as the Market-place, where Arnold, who
headed this party, was wounded. Arnold, I
was further informed, knew the town well, hav-

THE HAUNTED CHAMBER.

205

ing frequently visited it when he followed the
calling of a horse-jockey.

On being shewn to my bed-room, I found it
adjoining a Freemason's Lodge. From crevices
in the wainscot, I discovered that I could not
only overhear, but overlook their proceedings.
They were performing no mysterious rite, unless
libations to Bacchus may be considered as one ;
and divulged no secret, but when a brother
flinched his glass. A discovery I did make,
however, of a most alarming nature : hid in my
room, thirsting for my blood, I, on turning down
the bed clothes, espied two bugs, fortunately for
me, too impatient for their victim ; more I knew
were in ambush. Making a precipitate retreat,
I requested Mrs. Harrald to shew me to another
bed-room. " Another bed-room ! I could shew
" you another and another, but a bed without
" bugs, we've no such luxury !" — " 1 must sleep
" then on the kitchen table." — " We have to be
" sure another room, but" — " But what ?" —
" Nay, Sir, if you are afraid of bugs" — " But
" what of that other room?" — " To be sure it's
*' only report." — " Report ! what do you mean?"
" Why, Sir, they say the room is haunted.'' —
" Of course never slept in V — " No, not for
" many, many years." — " The bugs long since
"starved to death, then! Let me have some
*' bedding, well aired and carefully examined,

.1 ?

206

THE HAUNTED C H A M B K R.

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taken into the /taunted chamber: if there is an
old bedstead, well ; if not, let the bed be made
on the floor." — "Dear! Sir! any body might
think you were serious!" — " Serious! I am
serious ! Will a ghost suck my blood ? Will
a ghost crawl over my body? Will a ghost
stink under my nose? I dread a bug, that's
certain ; but I am not afraid of a bugbear." —
I wish others, Sir, were of your opinion ; — for
though we have the house almost rent-free,
we are afraid we shall be obliged to give it
up, as no servant will live in the house with
us ; and even your servants, Sir, though they're
Soldiers, have declared that unless the Cap-
tain will give them leave to have lodgings else-
where, they will sit all night by the kitchen
fire!" — " And now, Mrs. Harrald, inform me
how the good people at Quebec account for
the house being haunted ?" — " It was once a
play-house, but soon after was converted into
a tavern ; and a man is said to have been
murdered in the room you are to sleep in I"

Wednesday, September 10th.

I was yet in bed when Captain Frende's and
Lieutenant Hall's servants came into my room
to see if all was well with me. They had not
been prevailed upon to sleep in the house, and

THE PARADE.

207

would rather have received five hundred lashes,
than have passed the night in my room. They
certainly were glad to find that I was safe, but
much disappointed to learn that I had neither
seen nor heard any thing alarming. How sin-
gular are the effects of habit and education!
These really brave fellows would with alacrity
have stormed a battery, and yet were afraid of
a ghost I I, on the contrary, knew that what is
called a ghost was a non-entity, and would
much rather have slept in a haunted tower
than have exposed myself to grape shot.

After breakfast I addressed a few lines to
Colonel de Chambault, enclosing SeigneurCuth-
bert's letter, and requested that I might have
the honour of a private introduction to his Ex-
cellency, as the state of my wardrobe would
not allow me to present myself at the Levee ;
and that I coulJ uOt think of visiting Quebec
without paying my respects to the Governor,
more especially as he was my townsman. I
also enclosed with my cards Mr. Bache's letter
to Col. Hale ; and Mr. Ogilvy's to Mr. Mure.

No answer coming from Col. de Chambault,
I accompanied Captain Frende to the parade
of the 6th Regiment, where 1 met Cripps, who
introduced me to Mr. Place, of Leeds. On
my return to my lodgings, I found a most kind
and very affecting note from Col. Hale ; he

iife

208

FALLS OF MONTMORENCI.

r<'

U '

h ^

had that very morning lost his only child — the
situation of his family prevented his waiting
upon me, yet he pressed me not to spare his
civilities and good offices. From Mr. Mure I
received a personal visit. rim iri^t>mv?s' tsw''

Accompanied Capt. Frende and Capt. ,

of the Artillery, to the Arsenal, where I saw a
large collection of arms as well kept and as well
arranged as those in the Tower of London.

Capt. invited me to dine at the Artillery

mess. Left my card at Madame le Blanc's
boarding-house, for Mr. and Mrs. Liston ; re-
ceived an invitation from Col. Hale to dine with
him en/amille on Friday.

Dined at the mes<^ of the Artillery Company,'
(Major Guthrie, Major Burton, &c. &c.) In the
evening Cripps drove me out in a calash along
the Heights of Abraham, passing the country
seats of the Bishop and the Governor. Re-
turned by the Montreal Road. ;' jr?'; '?' .•

Thursday, September 11th.

After breakfast Captain Frende and I hired .
a calash, and drove to the celebrated Falls of
Montmorenci, about seven miles below Quebec.
Some give the height of the Fall at three hun-
dred and forty feet, others at three hundred feety
and some again are content to say that the

■ i-j

the
ing
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ell
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iry

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th

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FALLS OF M O N t «) <i fr K N ( I

«f»f)

wnter dopK not faH m«>!v th:»n iwo hiUMlrtM* rtnd
forty ; nor do I think thnl it is higher f})>>n two
hundred and ihriy ; indv m) I alwij,%->.i taki* tlie
lowest cralculMioi) m riU 'j>!iitlt'i 'Dndtr.

Height, h<Tiwev«M« hm hul aii inferior pbce
among: those causes which produce th« sublime
Hrid beauHftd in >vater-faUs Where \» the mih-
linn? jiroduced with such a«toui8hii»(s; effect ai at
IViagara -that Vrinc.e of Catanif^H ' Yet Ni**-
gam km from the Tu hie- Hock not iilaw thao oina
huiw't*>f* mf^ f'Mty-nifM>fet*tttiiiem€h«?« pitr.h.

The iK'st vk:v of the Fsitlw of Mootin* r» im i
is from a Summ«*r-<hf»!i*€' H«t ih«j '^y>fiw *

■We ^^r"^' ^^,

i«.i '.

tnred m, but was greuH anuiiua ;.wi 8,,uj»toin

Frendci enxm Hfter^vardw joiniijg: me; hb tr<;,>.d

shook this crai«y building, ever vibraimg vtkh

the coucussioa of the Falls ! -For a mom*iU i

HfHiaht ij«< gone;- (he next monmni we -tverw

i rrafimm. We hud the b*i^t joJ-^niij*^:-

-« -innther Siin>mfr-how*t: i.m ^,

' t! dweUmghoiiie bjjik lef

iV»*mtiritpv^m'&rof iJMMMlit.
FwMBii t 1 took a sk^jtoh i>f ^ j^iii*.

The aft+^rt^j. ^d a character o» tl* i»w»; ^^-

1 ■

FALLS or MONTMORKNCI.

2(M>

Mater does not fall more than two hundred and
forty ; nor do I think that it is higher than two
hundred and forty ; indeed I always take the
lowest calculation in all matters of wonder.
Height, however, has but an inferior place
among those causes which produce the sublime
and beautiful in water-falls. Where is the sub-
lime produced with such astonishing effect as at
Niagara — that Prince of Cataracts? Yet Nia-
gara has from the Table-Rock not more than one
hundred and forty- nine feet nine inches pitch.

The best view of the Falls of Montmorenci
is from a Summer-house hanging over the abyss !
We were earnestly requested not to enter the
Ruin : we saw the steps descending to it de-
cayed, the beams supporting it partly rotten,
and evidently given way ; yet thinking that my
weight would make no sensible addition, I ven-
tured in, but was greatly alarmed on Captain
Frende soon afterwards joining me ; his tread
shook this crazy building, ever vibrating with
the concussion of the Falls ! — For a moment I
thought us gone ; — the next moment we were
safe on terra Jinna. We had the best perspec-
tive view from another Summer-house on the
lawn in front of the dwelling-house built by
Gen. Haldimand, a former Governor of Canada.
From this station I took a sketch of the Falls.
The scenery had a character oi' its own \ the

210

GOVERNOR M I L N K M.

rri|

!. I

banks udjoiuing the Falls were covered with
pine, but below them a naked cliflf. The Fall
itself is a fine one, very superior to the Cohoes
Fall on the Mohawk, and afforded no less de-
light than the greater Fall of the Genesee.

Our return was by Mill, a Distillery,

and Charles River Bridge ; Charles River ap-
peared to be nothing more than a tide water.

Noon ; waited upon Colonel Hale, who ac-
companied me to the chateau, when I was intro-
duced to his Excellency Governor Milnes. Our
conversation was private for nearly an hour.
He asked many questions respecting the United
States, and Upper Canada. He was to dine
to-day with the Bishop, but he hoped that to-
morrow he should have my company. On
informing him that the next day was fixed for
my departure, he was polite enough to expos-
tulate on the shortness of my visit.

An Officer of the Garrison had procured me
permission to examine the works, but a very
heavy rain the whole of the afternoon prevented
my having that pleasure.

Friday, September 12th.

Introduced to Major Butler and to Captain
Christie, from both of whom received invitations
to dinner. Captain Frende was much inclined
to pass another day or two in Quebec, but his

THi; RETURN VOYAGE.

211

«lnty lorbado him ; lio, theioforc, notwithstand-
ing tlie rain continued very heavy, gavo instant
orders for his departure. Tliero was, however,
no obligation on my part to accompany him.
I had informed Ca» tain Frendc that 1 should
most probably remain a few days longer than
himself at Quebec, and return by land for the
advantage of seeing more of the country. Be-
sides, I knew tliat the navigation in bateaux,
against so rapid a River as the S' Lawrence,
was very tedious. Yet, so much wa.^ I attache','
to the society of Captain Frende and Lieatenai>t
Hall, that I determined to be of the party, and
share their future adventures on this voyage.

The bateaux had been hauled so " high ^nd
dry," that we lost a tide before we could l*. uncH
them ; in doing of which, one man broke his
arm, and another got a black eye in return for
a difference of opinion : and, as if these circum-
stances had not created confusion enou[ ' a
couple of large mastiffs fell a fighting in the
midst of us. Seeing how things were going,
that is, that there was no immediate prospect of
our soins, 1 withdrew from the scene of action,
and that during so heavy a sho :• of rain, that
I thought it a sufficient excuse \o request slielter
at a house where I had observed two pretty
girls at the window, and v»nich also afforded a
n sight of the i)rorrf tiings of our party. 1 was

2 E

1|
1

!.-»

212

QUEBEC.

chceifully admitted into the room, when I told
them the plain truth ; that I was on the point
of embarking, had observed them at the window,
and thought it well worthy the trial if I could
not have one half hour's conversation before I
left Quebec. They entered readily into my
views, and gaily told me that they would excuse
an impertinence where there was so little pros-
pect of a repetition. So chatty, lively and
frank were these girls, that I saw with regret
that the Engagh had succeeded in launching
their bateaux.

Before I take leave of Quebec, I will observe,
that this celebrated city is divided into the
Upper and Lc^ 'er Towns, both of which are
fortified. These fortifications are now entirely
neglected, but the fortress, which is wholly se-
parated from the Upper Town, has been almost
daily strengthened since the American war ; so
that such engineers as have seen it look upon it
as impregnable, even had the enemy possession
of the city.

It may be said of Quebec, (which can be said
of no other fortress,) that three Generals, com-
manding the armies of three difTerent nations,
have fallen under its walls — Montcalm, Wolfe,
and Montgomery.

Quebec, as I was informed, contains about
ten thousand inhabitants, being about one-fifth

I i

CAPIi ROUGE.

213

larger than Montreal. Weld, speaking of the
prospect from the Upper Town, says, that for
grandeur, beauty, and diversity, it surpasses all
that he had hitherto seen in America, or indeed
in any other part of the world. Now, in my
opinion, the objects are much too distant to be
interesting ; you have neither fore-ground, nor
middle-ground ; it is all perspective : very infe-
rior, surely, to the view from the Beacon Hill
at Boston, or from the Battery at New York.

There is a custom at Quebec which I no
where else met with : the water-carts are all
drawn by dogs !

The 6th Regiment, and a company of Artil-
lery, were at this time in Quebec.

At 3 p. M. we took our departure from Mr.
Godfrey's Brewery, which furnished us with
some excellent ale, indeed the very best I ever
drank not brewed in England. The ebb tide
had been mnning two hours, we had, however,
the advantage of a favourable light breeze.

6 p. M. Took down sail, being calm.

7^ p. M. Landed at CapeRouge, three leagues
from Quebec.

The tide being out, we had much difficulty
in gaining the shore, impeded in the first in-
stance by slippery rocks, and in the second by
a muddy swamp. It was a dark night, the rain
succeeded by a heavy fog ; trudging -.xhuix, wo

214

THE POST-HOUSE.

sought a night's lodging, to the disturbance of
the screaming snipe.

The first house which we came to was so
very filthy, that we determined to look out for
another ; the second, which was the Post-house,
was little better, and in one respect worse, it
containing six dirty children. Eggs and milk
were all the provisions that the house could
afford, but we had abundant stores of our own.
Among the women was a very old Dame, who
gave up her bed to Hall, and slept with two
other of the women. Hall was not satisfied
with getting the old Lady's bed, but could not
resist interrupting her prayers, for we all slept
in one room ; he every now and then gave her
a slap, which her posture he said so irresistibly
invited, with a — " Come, have not you done
yet?" The old Lady, instead of shewing any re-
sentment at this behaviour, mildly desired that
he would not intemipt her, as she had to begin
again ; but neither the old Dame's request, nor
Captain Frende's nor my persuasion, had any
effect upon Hall : he seemed to give her a par-
ticular time to say her prayers in, and when that
period was expired, he renewed his thump and
interrogation of " Come, have not you done
vet?" The old Lady observing that his question
was always the same, asked me what he said ;
on informing lier, she replied, that unless the

ST. A U O U S T I N.

215

gentleman would cease his persecution, she
must remain on her knees the whole night.
Won, I believe, by h .*r ;^«atient behaviour, our
wild friend permitted 1 ^ ; to say her prayers in
peace. In fact I never met a man who had so
ungovernable a flow of animal spirits as Hall.

At midnight we were roused from profound
sleep by a thundering knocking at the door,
and the sudden entrance of L'Estrange of the
6th, and his party, in pursuit of two deserters.

We breakfasted at seven o'clock, but were
not able to procure eggs and milk for our serv-
ants, which was the first disappointment of the
kind we had met with. The charge, too, was
exorbitant ; and although the item was not put
in the bill, I rather think that we had to pay for
the pleasure which Hall took in slapping the
old Dame.

8a.m. Embarke'i. On our way we met with
a cart which we pressed to put us on board.

9 A. M. Obliged to ply our oars ; no wind
and heavy fog ; tide almost expended.

10 A. M. Mill, and Cape Rouge Bay, where
we breakfasted in going down; twelve miles.
Here the whole N. W. shore is lined with bare
rocks extending some distance into the River.

lOi A. M. Ghnrch and Village of St. Augustin ;
a pretty situation under a wooded cliff', thirteen
miles and a half. Sun breaks out.

JpiS.

F ■

216

CAPE SANTE.

Noon. Calm ; sun scorching. We dined on
board, and drank a glass to the memory of
the gallant Wolfe ! This day being the anniver-
sary of his glorious death upon ** the lap of
victory that moment won."

i p. M. Church and pretty Village of Pointe
aux Trembles, twenty-one miles ; also opposite
to a Church on S. £. side.

3i p. M. Church of Le Cur6 on S. E. side.

3 p. M. Pass River of Jacques Cartier, twenty-
eight miles and a half, which takes its name from
the Frenchman who discovered Canada in 1534.
Three sloops and a schooner passed us, coming
down right before the wind.

3^ p. M. Having neither wind nor tide in our
favour, we knded at Cape Sant6, a considerable
Village, with a large double-towered Church,
called the Trois Sceurs, being built by three
Sisters, and is the handsomest Church which 1
saw between Montreal and Quebec. We got
excellent quarters at this Village, being thirty
miles from Quebec.

To fill up the time we took our guns, but
could only kill a plover. We bathed, and visited
the Church. As the tide would serve soon
after midnight, we went to bed in good time,
without being disturbed by Hall beating the
great drum.

POINTE DE CHAMBAULT.

217

Sunday, September 14th.

3| A. M. Embark with a favorable light air.

4i A. M. Pointe Platon, S. E. side, thirty-three
miles, where we had slept on the night of the
8th; wind breezes up. ' ''

5 A. M. Pointe de Chambault, N. W. thirty-
nine miles. The Church and Village are situated
on this Point, which form a very conspicuous
bluff or promontory. From this promontory to
Cape Sant6, a distance of three leagues, our
Engagh gave the name of the Rochelieu, being
a bed of rocks forming a continued Rapid, and
not passable by ships, except at high water.
The Rocks are for the most part bare at ebb
tide, and occupy the greater part of the bed of
the River.

7a.m. Church and Village of Les Grondine,
N. W. forty-five miles. A thunder-storm now
came on. The invariable effect of such a storm
is either to kill the wind, or change it : this
killed it.

7iA.M. Landed in St. Jean's Parish, S. E.
side, forty-eight miles, four miles and a half
below the place where we passed so much time
on the 8th, and our situation was very similar.
Our breakfast was a bad one ; we could not
obtain an egg in the whole village.

•2I»

CURIOUS PLANT.

The win<l and tide being against us, we were
detained iiere five hours, and as there was no
work for our guns, we amused ourselves in
making a most excellent fire : nor was our la-
bour without its reward ; for every now and
then came on a smart shower.

A Soldier found a plant among the rocks, so
very curious, that he brought it to Capt. Frende
for our inspection. Captain Frende gave it to
me ; but as there was no means of preserving it,
on account of its uncommon delicacy, I took a
drawing of the plant, and got Frende and Hall
to sign their names as vouchers for its accuracy. ^
I did this to prevent those to whom I might
shew the drawing at Montreal from considering
it a work of fancy. The stalk was eight inches
in length, of a reddish-brown colour : the rest of
the plant was of a beautiful red, and a pure
white, as if the one was made of coral, and the
other of virgin wax ; the parts whicli were red
were attached to the stem, and those which
were white were attached to the tip of the red,
but so slightly, as to drop off with the most
gentle touch : each of the white parts contained
two seeds, which I preserved. There being no
botanist in company, we could not give this
plant a scientific name.

^ p. M. Re-embarR. Calm ; and scorching
ami.

THE RAPID.

219

1 P. M. Passed tour porpoises; they were
very different from those which I had been ac-
customed to observe at sea. These were con-
siderably larger, perhaps two or three times
their bulk, and white as snow. Our Engagh
informed me that they were peculiar to the St.
Lawrence, but that they never before observed
them so high up the River.

2 p. M. Ran our bateaux on the beach, as we
had a Rapid to pass, which we could not sur-
mount without the assistance of the flood tide.
Landed, and filled four bottles with excellent
water from a cold spring. Dined on board.

3 p. M. The flood-tide making, we proceeded
on our voyage, but having to contend not only
with a powerful Rapid, but with a strong head-
wind, we, after a fruitless contest of an hour, in
which we did not advance a bateau's length,
gave up the point, and stood across the River,
that we might work up under the lee of the
N. W. shore. It now blew a gale of wind,
accompanied with lightning, and the waves ran
so high that we had much difficulty in getting
across tlie River. Passed the mouths of tlie
St. Anne, ai^d afterwards of the Batiscan, sixty-
nine miles. Low sandy beach. — Badly lodged.

Monday, September 15th.

b\ A. M. Embark. Light air from north ;
clear and cold.

2 F

220

T R J S li I V 1 i: K K S.

'' i

7^ A. M. Laiiiletl at Cliiuiiplain, seventy-five
miles ; breakfasted at the same house where we
had supped on the 7tli.

9 A. M. The wind not being favorable, the
stream was too rapid to be ascended in bateaux ;
the Engagh undertook, therefore, to drag them.
As some amusement on our walk along the
beach, Frende took his fowling-piece. The cur-
lews were very numerous, but also very shy ;
Frende, nevertheless, succeeded in shooting
eight of them, which were of three different
species. .

Having walked a league and a half, we at
lOi A. M. re-embarked, seventy-three miles and
a half. Having now the wind favorable from
the eastward, we hoisted sail, but almost as
soon as our congratulations on this happy
change had escaped our lips, the wind chopped
round and headed us.

1 p. M. Landed, being again under the ne-
cessity of dragging our bateaux. Capt. Frende
shot two other curlews.

3 p. M. Re-embark.

4 p. M. Town of Les Trois Rivieres, ninety
miles. We were now for the third time obliged
to drag the bateaux. I borrowed a soldiers
musket, and at the first discharge 1 killed four,
and at the second two curlews.

Found a cat in the woods, and took her along
with us.

1» O I N T E 1) U LAC.

2-21

It was nearly dark when we reached Pointe
du Lac, having walked nine miles from Les
Trois Rivieres.

A field adjoining the village was so stocked
with mushrooms, that in two or three minutes
we had gathered a large handkerchief full.

7 p. M. Pointe du Lac, ninety-nine miles.
Took up our quarters at the Post-house.

9 p. M. Hall, who had been left in command
of the bateaux, arrived with intelligence that not
being able to get them up as high as Pointe du
Lac, he had left them half a league below. Our
walk had therefore saved us from passing the
last two hours uncomfortably in the bateau.
Halls arrival was the signal for supper. I had
ordered a fowl and given the woman of the
house our mushrooms for sauce. When I ex-
pected the roasted fowl, behold ! the woman
brought the plucked fowl in her hands to know
how we would have it cooked? — " Good God !
" woman, the fowl's alive!" — " Why, yes, Sir!
" I cannot find in my heart to kill them myself,
*' and my husband s from home ; so, to lose no
" time, I thought I would have it plucked
" ready ! "

Having sworn a few French oaths at the
woman for her barbarity, I had the fowl killed,
lor I suppose the woman would have roasted
it alive rather than have wrung its neck.

(■ i

J I

'222

NT. ( IIAULKN.

After thiw specimen of our hosteHs, we were
not surprised at the house being dirty, the sheets
filthy, the rooms swarming with fleas, and the
beds with bugs. The ciiarges too, as is generally
the case where the accommodation is bad, were
extravagant.

Tuesday, September 16th.

6 A. M. Having a favorable though light wind,
the bateaux were ordered round the Pointe.
Previous to their arrival, 1 shot a large grey
woodpecker : it was a most beautiful bird. Like
many others of this genus, it had a scarlet crown ;
its wings were a bright yellow, and round spots
of a clear dark brown ornamented its breast.
This was the first woodpecker of this species
that I had seen. They were here very numerous,
and were now assembUng in flocks previous to
their migratory departure. " What a brilliant
*• plumage !" exclaimed Capt. Frende, " I will
** have this bird stuffed 1" It was stuffed, and
sooner than Captain Frende expected ; — the cat
stuffed it into her belly.

When the bateaux had worked round the
Pointe, a sudden fog came on, which prevented
our embarking, as we had no compass by which
to steer across Lac St. Pierre. The Engagis
were ordered to coast to the village of St.
Charles, to which we walked, being about a mile^

hX (; ,ST. 1' I K u u v..

223

10 A. M. Embarked ; calm and tolerably clear.

11 A.M. Experienced my usual fortune in
crossing Lakes ; — a head wind. Finding it vain
to contend against wind and waves, we put
back to the village, and took up our quarters at
the Canteen. We got a comfortable room and
two good beds. The people of the house were
rude in their behaviour, and unreasonable in
their charges. , ,,,< . , : , i

On disembarking, the Lake was so low that
we were obliged to be carried a considerable
distance on the backs of the Engages. Halls
donkey fell and threw his rider sprawling in the
mire : mine came upon his knees, but quickly
recovering himself, I was not dismounted. It
was bad riding, the bottom being a slight crust
of sand on a stiff, miry clay, very sHppery.

Captain Frende being acquainted with Mr.
Montour, the Seigneur of this district, we reck-
oned upon being his guests, but had the disap-
pointment to learn that he was from home. We
went to see Mr. Montour's house, and visited
his mills. Of the miller we bought a large tur-
key, a hind quarter of fat mutton, a large loaf of
bread, and four pounds of butter, for one dollar
and sixty-two cents and a half, or seven shil-
lings and four-pence sterling. Not wishing to
have another bird plucked alive, our servants
were ordered to dress the turkey for dinner.

'I'ii

LA K I V I L U E A U I. O l< 1*.

Wednesday, September 17th.

J .1'

Fog and calm iinheretl in the niorninj^.

7 A. M. Embarked. Light head- wind ; hqw
fliglits of ducks.

9 a. m. Wind began to blow fresh ; very hard
rowing; took a spell every now and then, my
hands being now better used to the exercise.

Noon. Abreast of La Riviere au Loup.

3 p. M. Arrived at the head of the Lake,
twenty-one miles from Poiate du Lac ; one hun-
dred and twenty miles. •

Inde{)endent of the St. Lawrence, Lac St.
Pierre is fed by numerous other Rivers, of
which three are of considerable magnitude ;
the Masquinongez, which it receives from the
N. W. the St. Francois, from the S. E. and the
Sorel, from the S. bringing the tribute which
Lake Champlain and Lake George pay to
the St. liawrence. With all these abundant
sources of income her expenditure is so lavish
as to leave her very low. The upper part of
the Lake is almost entirely mortgaged to nu-
merous Islands, while fields of high and strong
rushes feed like greedy cormorants upon her
bounty.

The Canadians were busily employed in
making their second crop of hay.

;U p. M. Passed Madame de Pelterie's, where

II E K T H I r. It.

22.-.

wo. \v,u\ break faste<l on the 7tli, one luundred
and twenty-three miles.

p. M. Landed at Berthicr, a lur^c Village,
one hundred and thirty miles from Quebec. On
landing, I wrote a line to my friend James
Cuthbert, to announce mim' and my friends'
arrival, he being the Seigneur of this district.
Cuthbert waited upon us with a request that we
would remove our quarters to his mother-in-
law's. Not finding that Cuthbert, as I expected,
kept Bachelor's Hall, we waved his polite in-
vitation as being too late an hour to disturb the
ladies. He then reminded me that 1 had pro-
mised to pass a few days with him, but I begged
to be acquitted of this engagement, as I was
anxious to return to New York with all speed.

We found good accommodations, and a saucy
Militia Captain, at Berthier.

. h n {'\ : . ..

Thursday, September 18th.

p. M. Embark. Thick unwholesome fog,
similar to that we had experienced here on our
voyage down. It had a clammy feel and a
burnt smell ; probably the woods were on fire.
8i A.M. Landed at St. Joseph de la Noraye,
one hundred and thirt;, -nine miles from Quebec.
This was a most miserable looking Village.
Understanding that the Priest occupied the best

l.'l

'22ii

LA VALTRIE.

, I

house, we determined to be his guests. The
house had much the appearance of a barn ; all
within shewed the extreme poverty or extreme
simplicity of the owner. Three books formed
the whole of the Priest's Library ; his wardrobe
were a few pegs driven into the wall.
9^ A. M. Re-embark, ut^- r-* t . v
10 A. M. Our party land. The Engagh drag
the bateaux ; walk a few miles ; re-embark.
Noon; dine on board. u .1 :t ,i ,/

1 p. M. Church and Village of La ValtHe,
one hundred and forty-nine miles. Our pro-
gress became now so tedious, owing to tlie great
strength of the current, that I determined to
proceed from this place by land, to which, in-
deed, my friends advised me. Taking leave,
therefore, c>f them, 1 made the best of my way
to the Post-House, one hundred and fifty miles,
where I hired a calash of Monsieur Robillard.
The calash was ready, but Robillard had P.
send into the fields to catch a horse. An ill-fa-
voured rough-coated little animal was soon
brought and harnessed. I was scarcely seated,
before the wild Canadian Colt ran off with me
full gallop into the fields, the road not being
fenced off. " How is this ?" said I to my youth-
ful conductor, who could neither stop the horse
nor guide him, " O ! nothing, Sir ! nothing, but
'' that the fool likes to gallop in the fields better

ST. SULPICE.

227

** than on the road, as he was never in a calash
*' before." " Nor was I ever in a calash before,
" and from this specimen 1 suspect 'tis your in-
" tention that I shonld never get into one again."
" If the fool only knew how much better run-
" ning he would have on the road, and that he
" must go to St. Sulpice at last !" " I don't
" care where he goes to at last, but I should
" have been better pleased had he gone to St.
" Sulpice at first."

By good management, or good luck, or, per-
haps, by a portion of each, the calash was pre-
vented from being overturned ; and when the
horse had once experienced how much better
running it was on the road, he never shewed an
inclination to make another sally into the fields.

2i p. M. Reached Desnoyer's, at St. Sulpice,
seven miles and a half, (one hundred and fifty-
seven miles and a half,) which distance my little
Canadian ran within the hour, notwithstanding
his vagaries in the fields.

For this stage of two leagues and a half I
paid two dollars, or two shillings and sixpence
currency, being one shilling currency per league,
or about three-pence half penny sterling per mile.
If two persons travel in the same calash, the
price is about one-fourth more.

Weld has given a description and engraving

oi' this vehicle, but he has

given It

much

1 1

I.!

it
(.1

228

MONTREAL,

m n

smarter appearance than what it possesses. It
is not so roomy as he represents it, and the dri-
ver, instead of being at a respectable distance,
is seated with his back against your knees. In
Lower Canada there are no other public carria-
ges. They afford a much pleasanter mode of
travelling than the stages of the United States ;
or, if we have any reference to the expence and
expedition, to any of the public vehicles of
Europe

Desnoyer, like Robillard, had no stables ; he
therefore was obliged to send a boy into the
tields to catch a horse.

3^ p. M. Reached Deschamp's at Repentigny,
one hundred and sixty- three miles and a half
from Quebec. I was half an hour in crossing
the ferry to Dubreuii's, at Bout de I'lle, one
hundred and sixty-four miles and a half. This
branch of the St, Lawrence, or rather of the
Otawa or Grande Riviere, which forms the
Island of Montreal, is but a small body of
water, comprred to that which runs in front
of the Island.

43 p. M. Brions, Pointe aux Trembles, one
hundred and sixty-nine miles.

6i p. M. Reached my old quarters at Dillon's,
Montreal, one hundred and seventy-eight miles.

Previous to a few remarks respecting the
country and inhabitants bordering the St. Law-

RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.

220

rence, I \ ill give a short description of a River
which I had navigated from Kingston to Que-
bec, a distance of three hundred and eighty-
eight miles, and whose waters I had traced
from Lake Erie, one hundred and eighty- two
miles above Kingston, making a total of ftve
hundred and seventy miles.

The St. Lawrence, from Montreal to Quebec,
preserves pretty uniformly from one to two
miles in breadth, being rarely contracted within
these limits. After passing Quebec, or rather
the Island of Orleans, it assumes more of the
appearance of a Bay than a River. At Tadou-
sac, where it receives the Saguenai, a consider-
able River from Lake St. John, it is four
leagues in width, and still expanding in its
course, enters the Gulph of St. Lawrence, at the
Island of Anticosti, with a spread of twenty
leagues from ehore to shore.

From Lake Ontario to Trois Rivieres the
banks are low, thence gradually increasing in
height to Quebec, \»here the summit of Cape
Diamond is three hundred and thirty-seven
feet ; or, by some accounts, as many yards
above the level of the water-line. The tide
make^ as high as Trois Rivieres, but the water
continues fresh eighty miles below Quebec.

From the Island of Anticosti to Quebec, the
distance is somewhere about four hundred mile;?!,

i230

RIVER 8 T. LAWRENCE*

ijf

and navigable for ships of war. The French
are said to have sailed a frigate as high as
Montreal. Vessels, however, of considerable
burthen annually visit this Port, more than five
hundred miles from the Ocean ! If there be any
other River in the World which will admit a
Ship of four hundred ton to this extent, which
I much doubt, it must be either the Amazons,
or the Rio de la Plata ; for the Mississippi can
scarcely be ascended in large Vessels higher
than New Orleans, and the Nile and the Ganges
are only navigable for small Craft.

No River has a more noble origin than the St.
Lawrence, if Lake Superior be allowed to be its
fountain-head : — a Lake whose superabundant
waters trace a line of nearly two thousand miles
ere they reach the ocean. That Lake Superior
has a just claim to this distinction, will be ad-
mitted, if it be considered, that the accession of
water which she receives from'those magnificent
streams which pour tribute into her bosom, is
not equal to the evaporation constantly taking
place on her surface, and still less to supply her
liberal gifts to Lake Huron, a Lake little infe-
rior to herself in magnitude, which receiving
the waters of Lake Michigan, and probably ad-
ding from her own stores, sends the accumu-
lated wealth by the River St. Clair to Lake
Erie, which Lake pours large tribute by the

If ^

t 1

r A N A 1> I A N S.

231

Niagara into Lake Ontario, the last and least
of these five immense fresh-water Lakes, the
largest in the known world ; one alone posses-
sing a greater surface than the Island of Great-
Britain.

In addition to what I have already said res-
pecting Lower Canada, I must add, that the
Farms which border on the St. Lawrence are
generally small; — that the Canadians are bad
ib,rraers ; — that their houses are dirty ; — that
no fresh air is ever admitted at the windows,
consequently their rooms have a close sickly
smell, like those in a workhouse or gaol ; — that
they sleep piggishly, using straw beds and co-
loured pillow cases ; — that fleas and bugs are
innumerable ; — that each family keeps two or
three barking curs ; — that the men are rude and
surly, but the women generally v(;ry civil and
obliging ; — that their food is principally bread
and milk ; — that the men have dark dingy com-
plexions ; are seldom without a short pipe in
their mouth, a worsted cap on their head,
and a worsted sash round their waist. The
cows are small ; the horses mere ponies, but
of a hardy unconquerable spirit — no wonder;
spirit seems to be the natural concomitant of the
smaller animals ; wisely designed, no doubt, to
counterbalance the superior strength of those of
larger growth. Did the King of Prussia act

232

<: A N A D I A N 8.

■: t

wisely in raising a regiment of giants? Yes!
they were intended for parade, and not for
battle. « i ,/ .

From Lake St. Pierre to Montreal, the Ca-
nadians were very busy getting in their second
crop of hay, but still more busy in dressing tlax,
an operation chiefly performed by the women
and girls, who took their stand near the public
road.

Though I passed numerous bands of flax-
dressers; though I passed many a group of
girls washing clothes in the River; though I
visited the Villages, and entered the farmers'
houses, I did not see one pretty country-girl.
I understand that the same remark has been
made in France, their mother-country. The
l^easantry of Germany are rude and ill-favour-
ed ; the women more so than the men. During
a residence of two years in Germany, I saw
much beauty among the higher classes of soci-
ety, but not one solitary instance of it among
the lower.

The case appeared not quite so desperate in
Holland, yet not a pretty milk-maid did I see
amongst her Frows. Love in a cottage does
not appear to be confined to any country ; but
Beauty in a cottage must be sought for in Eng-
land only. You will go far and will fare worse,
if you seek it in Scotland, or even in Wales.

MONTREAL.

233

This flower is too delicate to be transplanted,
if I may judge from the sickly appearance it
puts on in the United States. It is no Sun-
flower! it thrives best in temperate climes,
and under a clouded sky ; yet protected from
the elements and treated with tenderness, it
will flourish under the torrid zone itself.

Finding myself most at home with Mr. and
Mrs. Cuthbert, I passed this evening with them.
Afternoon overcast. ■■ — ■

Friday, September 19th.

Strangers at Montreal are expected to make
morning visits ; expected or not, I called upon
the Cuthberts, Mr. Frobisher, Mr. Ogilvy, and
Captain Mc. Kenzie.

Frende and Hall did not reach Montreal till
the afternoon. Not being able to make Point
aux Trembles on account of the head-wind, the
strength of the current, and the lowness of the
River, they were under the necessity of sleeping
at Bout de llle; or in other words, of passing
the night there, for the bugs murdered sleep.
As Captain Frende's guest, I dined at the
mess of the 41st. Among others present were
Captains Mc. Kenzie, John, and Bayard ;
Lieutenants Derenzy, Mair, True, Cameron,
Biillork; .Tohnstonc, Hall, Saunders, Campbell,

234

M O N T R K A L.

and CouUhurst. Supped with Mr. Ogilvy. —
Sultry day ; rain at night.

Saturday, September 20th.

I this day had to regret my loss in the society
of Mr. Broom, of New York, a fellow-lodger,
who accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Liston on their
return to the United States.

Dined with Mr. Frobisher at his town house.
We were twenty-two persons at table. Among
the guests were Governor Morris, of Morrisa-
nia, Senator for the State of New York in
Congress, and late Embassador to the Court
of France ; for manly beauty, for strong sense,
for powerful eloquence, and for brilliancy of
fancy, few countries have produced his equal.
Edward Livingston, of New York, and Mem-
ber of Congress, sat opposite to G. Morris ;
they were opposite, too, in their principles, and
kept up a most animated and interesting con-
versation the whole evening. Livingston had
extensively cultivated the Belle Lettres, and
the Polite Arts ; indeed, his taste was the ruin
of his fortune. He had a more lively fancy than
Morris ; more playful, but not so keen : in a
word, he was the only thoroughly-good-temper-
ed Democrat I ever met with ; this was my first
inlroducticn to him ; I had frequently enjoyed
Mr. Morris's society.

M N T R K A L.

235

Ml*. Jones, a young Irishman, of high birth,
was introduced as a relation of Mr. Livingston's.

Mr. Ashfield, (an old acquaintance of mine)
was introduced as the nephew of G. Morris.

Among the other distinguished strangers was
Mr. Hearne, who had passed a great part of his
life in. India, and was well acquainted with the
languages, manners and politics of that country.
His present residence was or the banks of Lake
Champlain. ' • •:

The Officers of the 41rl whom I noticed in
this party, were Colonel Thomas; and Captains
Mc. Kenzie, Bayard, Campbell and Cameron.
I also noticed among the company, Lieutenant
Cady, of the Artillery ; Major Murray, whose
residence is on the Grand or Otawa River ; Dr.
Selby ; the Hon. James Mc. Gill, and the Hon.
John Lees, Member of the Executive Council.
Messrs. Mc. Tavish, Cuthbert, Todd, Henry,
and Lister. — Rain greater part of the day.

Sunday, September 21st.

Went to the Roman Church ; had little of the
ceremony, and none of the magnificence, of the
Roman Church at Baltimore.

Dined at the mess of the 41st, as Captain
Frende's guest ; Ashfield was of the party ; he
expressed a fear that he should be made tipsy,

2 H

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'2'Mi

M <) N r l< K A L.

adding, " 'tis the fate of all Strangers, I hear ;
♦' What think you?" " I think that the mess
•• doors will not be locked ; and 1 think that
" when I've got my quantity I shall walk away."
We hot! realized our expectations. When I
found myself on the point of trespassing against
sobriety, I walked off; my friend staid to finish
the Campaign ; or, without metaphor, the Cham-
pagne. This is another of the thousand-and-
one instances that predictions generally realize
themselves. — Raw morning; pleasant evening;
rain in night.

Monday, September 22d.

Morning, visits to the Cuthberts and Mr.
Ogilvy. . , . • 1 : •

Went to see some Wood Ducks ; birds almost
unequalled in their plumage. In Parkinson's
Museum 1 was shown, I think, the same Bird
under the name of the Mandarin Duck.

Paid ha)f a guinea for a pair of handsomely
ornamented Moccasins. I had given two dol-
iars for two pairs at Albany. Visited the Mili-
tary Tennis-Court, where I saw a pleasing and
manly display of activity and skill. How supe-
rior to billiards !

Dined with Mr. Mc. Tavish. Mrs. Mc. Ta-
vish was the only very handsome woman I saw

M () N T It E AL.

237

ill Canada. In addition to many of Ihc gentle-
men wiiom I had met at Mr. Frobisher's, qh
Morris, Livingston, Jones, Ashiield, Hearne,
were Judge Ogden, Mc. Gilvray, two Mc. Gills,
Leicester, and a stranger. In the evening came
Mr. and Mrs. Ogden. — Fine pleasant weather.

I'll ! ■

Tuesday, SEi'TEMiiiiu 23d.

Dined and passed the evening at Mr. Ciith-
bert's. The conversation turning upon riddles, I
observed, that riddles were easy of solution in
proportion to their apparent difficulty; more
easy as they became more paradoxical; as a
ship is known at first sight by those who know
little or nothing of its materials; and that 1
never had been long puzzled by a riddle, nor
did I think that I could be. Mrs. Cuthbert
replied that she knew a riddle which had bafHed
the peneti'ation of all to whom she had ever
proposed it, and that if I found it out she would
give me and my friends a dance. The words
of the riddle 1 have forgotten; but I very soon
hit upon the solution, which was, " A whale
during the time that Jonah was in its belly."
As 1 was to leave Montreal the next day,
the cards were instantly sent out, and the
party speedily assembled ; among whom wen;
my friends Mc. Kenzie, Dercnzy, and Wells,

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238

MONTREAL.

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of New York. 1 won, also, a dinner from Mr.
Cuthbert, by finding out Lord Chesterfields
Impenetrable Secret" ' ^ -^lii-t'sa'^Hfir , « y''---

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Wednesday, September 24th. V'VjH'*

I am now going to take leave, most probably,
for ever, of Montreal. Never place had so
won, in so short a time, upon my affections.
During the ten days of my ever-to-be-remem-
bered residence here, I have not been allowed
to take a single meal at my Inn, except at
breakfast, a liberty I would not give up. There
was a daily strife among my friends who should
entertain me, and every effort used to induce me
to prolong my visit. This kindness was the more
flattering as I did not come recommended, like
Mr. and Mrs. Liston, Mr. Morris, or Mr. Liv-
ingston, by diplomatic rank, political celebrity,
or splendid talents; but, as an unknown and
obscure stranger, was invited to the same par-
ties, and received upon the same footing, with
these exalted characters. I had often heard of
the hospitality of Montreal : I now experienced it.

To Mr. and Mrs. Cuthbert, Captain Mc.
Kenzie, Mr. Ogilvy, Mr. Frobisher and Captain
Frende, I shall ever feel myself indebted ; less
for their many civilities, than for that friendly
manner with which they were accompanied.

MONTREAL.

239

The Guthbei'ts considered me as part of tlieir
family : to them I gave most of my leisure
hours ; — sometimes I was in their library before
breakfast, and frequently dropped in after
supper.

Montreal contains about eight thousand in-
habitants, principally French Canadians. The
most wealthy class are the Merchants of the
Old and New North-west Companies, through
whose hands pass all the peltries of Upper
Canada, and the vast regions to the N. N; W.
and W. of the Great Lakes. • > - .

. These gentlemen are chiefly Scotch by birth ;
but Mr. Frobisher, the late Head of the Old
N. W. Company, is a native of Halifax, in York-
shire. A daughter of his married a school-fellow
of mine, Capt. O'Brian, and was burnt to death
at Exeter, ■^t.'.ij, iU. ■i^.iiu-t j^h: (^ii:}j%>S\:f\
■■■ Some details respecting the N.W. Companies
have been given by the Duke de Liancourt, and
Weld ; bnt the real transactions of these Com-
panies are locked up in the breasts of themselves
and servants. The Nor west Mc. Kenzie stands
conspicuous for his knowledge of them, the
fruit of a most adventurous spirit, and of un-
paralleled success. Montreal is situated on an
Island surrounded by the waters of the Utawa
and the St. Lawrence, which Island is twenty-
eight miles in length, and ten where broadest.

•240

MONTREAL.

The principal houses are built of stone, and
though very expensive, are not showy on the out-
side; having, on the contrary, a prison-like
appearance, from the causes mentioned in a
preceding part of this work : within they are
commodious and warmed by means of a stove
in the passage, from whence flue-pipes are con-
ducted through all the rooms, which, with dou-
ble windows, and sometimes double doors,
render these houses warmer in winter than those
in less severe climates.

Farenheit's Thermometer is sometimes 20^
below Zero, or 52*^ below the freezing point at
Montreal, yet the inhabitants are perfectly com-
fortable within doors, nor does the closeness of
their rooms render the atmosphere, injurious to
health, or any ways offensive. Notwithstand-
ing that the generality of the Canadians muffle
themselves in furs when during the nipping frost
they venture in the open air, yet I am told that
a peasant will frequently during the severest
weather harness your calash with the neck of
his shirt open. <,. om .

' Better bread is made at Montreal than at any
other place which I am acquainted with.

My good fortune still continued to befriend
me. Mr. Livingston, Mr. Jones, and Mr.
Hearne had fixed upon this day for their return
to tiie United States. Mr. Hearne had a vessel

CROSS THE ST. LAWRENCE.

241

of his own waiting at St. John's for himself and
friends ; he then mentioned this circumstance to
me, with an offer of her accommodation and an
invitation to be of their party : it is scarcely ne-
cessary to note my acceptance. We took break-
fast at Mr. Mc. Gilvray's, where we met Gou-
verneur Morris, Ashfield, and M&sson, the
King's Botanist. Masson had been some time
at the Cape of Good Hope, and had lately ex-
plored Upper Canada ; his collections for His
Majesty's Gardens at Kew, were no doubt valu-
able and extensive. Morris and Masson were
much entertained by the drawing and descrip-
tion of the wax-plant* found among the rocks
on the 14th instant. It was new to them both ;
so also was the tassel-tree, which I had met
with at the Little Falls of the Potowmac, and
at French-town. 1 gave the seeds of the wax-
plant to Mr. Morris.

9 A. M. Embarked in a canoe with a strong
N. wind, arid though the waves in consequence
ran very high, I saw nothing in this passage to
induce Weld to represent it as so very frightful.
Insensible to danger, I sat admiring the sur-
rounding scenery, while the boatmen, for one
hour, were striving, with all their strength and
all their skill, against wind and waves, and a

* Si> called from tlip wax-like appearance of that part of the
plant containing the seetl.

242

LA PRAIRIE.

rapid current ; — circumstances which might have
filled my mind with apprehension, had I, like
Weld, entered Canada by the route of Lake
Champlain ; but the Rapids of the St. Lawrence
had familiarized me to these scenes ; and had
Weld seen himself amidst the " agreeable hor-
rors"* of the Rapide des Cedres before he had
made this traverse, he would have been silent
as to its dangers. — Such the effect of habit.

10 A. M. Landed at Longueuil, where we
found a stage which had been engaged for

U A. M. After a pleasant drive of eight miles
along the S. £. bank of the St. Lawrence, com-
manding a fine view of Grant's Island, Montreal,
the Rapids, and distant Mountains, we reached
La Prairie, eight miles.

Turning off to the S. £. we crossed a flat
country, the land poor, the farms wretched, and
the uncultivated land producing those marks of
a thin and hungry soil — the Spruce Fir, the
Double Spruce Fir, the Larch Fir, the Balsam
Fir, the Hemlock Fir, and the White Birch, the
favourite tree of the indigenous natives of this
country ; it furnishes the bark with which they
make their canoes, the most portable and the
most elegant vessels that ever pressed the bosom
of the waters. ' '

* See Lord fJarilenstone's Travels.

CHAMBLY RIVER.

243

3 p. M. Reached St. John's, twenty-six miles.
We got a good dinner at Cheeseman's Tavern,
a better house than I expected to find here.
St. John's, though a poor Village, has all the
appearance of a Sea-port and Garrison. There
is a Custom-house for the entrance and clear-
ance of all goods that traverse Lake Champlain,
the principal channel of communication between
the United States and Canada. ' J'n, .. ;^ ,:„-

6 p. M. We embarked on board the Swiftsure
sloop of eighteen tons, and again met with my
old luck in crossing Lakes. A more favourable
wind could not have blown than what blew all
this day ; it now gave us only a few expiring
sighs. Having fell calm, we dropped anchor
and went to bed. I was obliged to 6ne of my
friends for mine.

Thursday, September 25th.

The Swiftsure has no cabin ; we had slept in
the hold. When we turned out at six o'clock
this morning, we found ourselves only four
miles below St. John's, moored 0}^osite to
Bingham's Tavern, where we were under the
necessity of passing all this day and following
night, with but indifferent accommodations;
thirty miles. The cause of our detention was
one of the severest gales of wind I ever wit-
nessed, increasing in violence during the night.

2 I

244

C H A M B L Y H I V F. R.

Friday, September 26th.

..:?. t,.

■»;

A. M. Found the Sloop high and dry, the
storm having been from the South, had had the
whole range of Lake Champlain forcing its
waters into the Chambly River, and thus raising
it above its natural boundaries, Our Captain
had not been aware of this circumstance, and
was very much out of temper to find, that on
the cessation of the storm, the river suddenly
retreated within its usual limits, leaving his
vessel on dry land.

There were no other means of getting the
Sloop into her destined element but by taking
out the whole of her cargo, which consisted of
salt in bags. It was still a work of difficulty,
and employed ten men four hours.

Hi A. M. Embark and set sail with flaws
from the N. W. The clouds were heavy and
broken, allowing the sun to gleam upon us at
intervals.

2i p. M. Pass the He aux Noix, thirty-nine
miles. I should consider the proper outlet of
Lake Champlain to be at this place, yet on the
maps it shews us part of the River Chambly,
which is represented, contrary to truth, to pre-
serve nearly the same breadth to within a short
distance of Pointe-au-fer. Whether Lake or
River, a flock of ducks were swimming upon
it ; when Jones levelled his gun, and shot one

LAKE CHAM 1' LAIN.

245

dead, and broke the wing of another. The
boy, our only sailor, was sent in the canoe in
chase. We were highly diverted by the eager-
ness and manoeuvres of the lad : many times
his hand was stretched out to seize the duck,
which, with a flap, or a dive, constantly evaded
him. A signal was therefore thrown out for his
recall. In the mean time, Jones was as actively,
but more profitably employed : he had stripped
his victim of his feathers, disemboweled him,
dismembered him, and digested him ; — that is
to say, had put him into his Digester, where,
amidst the fumes of savoury sauces, he was
soon prepared for our dinner. ''

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6 p. M. Pass the Division-line and enter the
United States, abreast of Rouse's Tavern, fifty-
one miles from Montreal

8 p. M. Ran on a reef off Pointe-au-Fer, a
dangerous point and reef projecting far into the
Lake. — Slept on board. — Clear cold night.

5 '

Saturday, September 27th.

6 A. M. Landed at the Custom-house, or
Cumberland-head. We here breakfasted at
Ransom's Tavern, seventy-five miles. Cum-
berland-head and Bay are opposite to the
Grande lie, the largest Island in Lake Cham-
plain, and situated in its broadest part This
Island is about fifteen miles long, and from
tM^o to four in width. We had passed tviro

h A K C C H A i\l 1' L A 1 N .

247

other conMiderable islands between tliis and
Pointe-au-Fer. * ;ui.n

. lOl A. M. Re-embark ; calm.

U P> M. Light head-wind from the South.

2^ p. M. Beat past Crab Island, which in the
map is called St. Michael's, seventy-nine miles,
a very small Island between the New York
shore and the centre of the Grande lie.

6 V. M. Beat past Yaleur Island, eighty-three
miles ; called by our Captain, Belcour Island.
It is situated between the Southern extremity
of Grande lie and the West Shore.

8 p. M. Had beat past Grande He, eighty-
five miles, and gained the open part of the Bay.
In consequence of a calm and light head winds,
we had not advanced, during the whole of the
day, at a greater rate than a mile an hour. —
Light head wind during the night

.{,.

Sunday, September 28th. •

At daylight we passed four small Islands,
called in the map the Four Winds; but our
Captain called them the Four Brothers, ninety-
eight miles. We had passed the Two Sisters
in the course of the night. — Slight rain.

9 A. M. Land on the Flat Rock, one hundred
and three miles. The sloop being becalmed,
we had landed to make the best of our way on

24B

L A K F. r H A M 1* L A I N .

toot to Mr. Hearne's. The walking along ihe
lieach being very ditficult, Jones and I under-
took to explore our way inland. We were soon
swamped, and glad to gain the beach again.
The rain now fell very heavy, and the rocks we
had to scramble over became so slippery, that
falls were unavoidable. I got a severe one.
The rocks and stones were very curious, a re-
mark which I was sorry to be obliged to make
en pasaant. At the end of two miles we came
to a creek which we passed in a canoe, one
hundred and five miles from Montreal. This
creek is called the River Bouquet in Pownall's
map.

After a most unpleasant walk of seven miles,
which we were three hours in performing, we at
mid-day reached Mr. Heame s charming retreat,
situated in the recess of a small bay, whose
Southern boundary is that great natural cu-
riosity the Split-Rock.

Soaked through with rain, and covered with
dirt, we were introduced to Mrs. Heame ; her
father, Mr. Bainham ; and to Miss Bainham,
her sister.

iiHl !•' i "Jl'Jj «

.lit ; .Jjf ■. n;i:!.

Our toilette made, and breakfast finished, we
joined the Ladies, when Livingston bore away
the palm in gallantry : in fact, Jones was not
disposed, and I was too prudent to enter the
lists against him. He drew Misss Bainham to a

LAKE C H A M l> I. A I N.

24M

favourite topic of his — Poetry. Much was said
respecting Burger's Leonora. Miss B. Iiad seen
two different translations of it, but there was a
third which she understood had still greater
merit, and that she was never able to procure.
I informed Miss B. that a friend of mine at
Montreal had forced my acceptance of two
small Books of Poems, as a resource against
ennui, should I be troubled with it during any
part of my journey to New York ; and that I
remarked the Poem in question in one of the
Volumes.

The Book was produced, and Mr. Livingston
offered to copy the Poem. This gave me a fair
occasion to request Miss B. would spare Mr. L.
that trouble by accepting the Volumes, which
would alone reconcile me to what I considered
as a trespass, if not a robbery, upon Mr. Ogilvy's
goodness to me, whose uniform kindness I felt
too deeply to make it necessary to preserve
these particular marks of it. My intention,
however, was no less than to shew a sense
of the obligation which I considered myself
under to Mr. Heame ; and Miss Bainham, from
seeing it in this light, was, no doubt, induced
to accept of the trifle.

Mr. Livingston having lands in this neigh-
bourhood which he wished to visit, remained,
with Mr. Jones, the guest of Mr. Hearne : he

250

LAKE CH A M PLA I N.

presented me with all his spare stores, to which
Mr. Heame added some bread, cheese, and
tea. The Sloop having discharged her cargo
of salt, I took leave of my friends, and at
3i p. M. we set sail with a favourable wind,
accompanied with rain.

3| p. M. Doubled the Split-Rock.

4i p. M. Landed two passengers at Bason-
harbour, Vermont, one hundred and fifteen
miles from Montreal. The Sloop being without
cargo or ballast, we had been under great ap-
prehension, while standing across the Lake, of
the vessel turning keel upwards. I had pre-
pared for the event by keeping aloof from the
passengers who had embarked at Mr. Heame's,
and taking a station whence 1 could easily
spiing overboard without fear of being entan-
gled in the rigging, and afterwards regain the
wreck, which, in case of upsetting, would, I
knew, float keel upwards.

Having landed two of our passengers, we
stood before the wind, when all fear of danger
to the vessel vanished ; yet if we escaped an
accident, which we were all apprehensive of,
we witnessed one as singular as it was unex-
pected. For the probable was substituted the
improbable : — Katlin. our only sailor^ except
the Captain, was on deck, eating his bread and
cheese, when the Captain gibed the boom.

LAKE CHAMPLAIN.

25 L

Seeing the boy s danger, I called out, " Katlin,
" the boom ! the boom !" But instead of falling
flat on the deck, he merely made a low stoop,
when he was instantly knocked overboard.
Knowing that he must drift into the wake of
the vessel, and that the canoe was dragging
astern, I called out, " Catch at the canoe!
" catch at the canoe !" Finding that the boy had
not laid hold of the canoe, ray servant endea-
voured to untie it and then to cut it : fortunately
I saw and prevented him. I now begged the
Captain would jump into the canoe and go
after the boy, who we heard repeatedly call,
" Bring the canoe! why don't you bring the
" canoe !" — For some time the Captain seemed
determined to make no effort to save the boy.
He exclaimed, " He's lost! he's lost! he can't
♦' swim ! Besides, how can I find hira ? Its so
" dark, ^ can't see the sloop's length ; and who's
" to take care of the sloop?" — I now in a man-
ner forced the man overboard, saying, " For
" God's sake jump into the canoe ; do your best,
" or the boy's death will lay heavy on you. The
*' sloop ran but run ashore, ami surely we know
" how to prevent that !"

The Captain rowed off in the canoe, and we
gave one shout that help was coming. To
describe the state of our feelings at this time,
would be impossible : not a word was spoken :

■2 K

B'l '

II.

11'

'2r)2

LAhE ('. HAMFLAIN.

we scarcely dared to draw our breath. It was
half-past eight o'clock, and the night so dark,
that Katlin was not seen after he fell overboard.
The sloop at the time was under full sail, and
going at the rate of five knots an hour. Every
moment Ratlin's cries became more distant and
faint, and when the Captain went in search of
him, his voice was no longer heard. For fifteen
minutes we were in a state of most anxious
suspense : we then distinguished the Captain's
cheers, which we heartily returned . ...:..,/.,,..
< He related that he had left the sloop a con-
sideri ble distance before he received any answer
to his loud and repeated calls, and that Katlin
was so exhausted when be reached him, that he
had great difficulty in getting him into the
canoe. . ,. .

Ratlin's relation almost exceeded credibility.
He had heard my warning, and thought that
he bad stooped sufficiently low for the boom to
pass over his head. He had also heard my
exclamation to seize the canoe, which he was
on the point of doing when it gave a sudden
swing and baffled him ; that finding he could
support his head above water, be dismissed all
fear, expecting that the canoe would come
every moment to his assistance. When he no
longer heard our cheers from the sloop, hope
began to fail him, and he was on the poioi of

LAKE CHAM PLAIN.

253

resigning himself to a watery grave Mrhen he
heard the Captains life-restoring voice. Ooi
telling Katlin that we despaired of his safety,
as we understood that he could not swim, he
replied, " Nor can I ! I was never before out
" of my depth ; I am ibnd of bathing, and I
** have often seen lads what diey call tread the
" water, and that's what I did."

The truth of this account was made manifest
by . the boy not only retaining his hat on his
head, but its being perfectly dry ; and what
adds to the singularity of this event, the boy
never quitted his grasp of the knife that he was
eating his bread and cheese with. It now ap-
peared that it was a most fortunate circumstance
that ray servant in his ccmfusion could neither
untie nor cut the tow-rope. Had he effected
this purpose, the boy must have perished ; for
had there been light enough for him to have
seen the canoe, he could nxat have swam to it.

9 p. M. Pass the Strait between Crown-point
and Chimney-point, on the opposite, or Vermont
Shore, one hundred and twenty-seven miles.

Midnight. Abreast of Ticonderoga and Su-
gar-hill, and Fort Independence on the Vermont
side ; one hundred and forty-three miles. Be-
tween Sugar-hill and Fort Ticonderoga is the
outlet of Lake George. It was by gaining pus
session of Sugar-iiiU that Burjfoyne oblij^ed ilic

254

LAKE CHAMPLAIN.

Americans to abandon Ticonderoga in the night
ofthe5thof July, 1777.

The Lake now became very narrow, but
highly romantic, being hemmed in by the steep
sides of the mountains ; certain points present-
ing their bare cliffs, while others were profusely
wooded. — Kept the deck almost the whole

night.- :■ •' • ■■" '--'■■'■>•■ ■:. .'.•_,, ■ ■ .

Monday, September 29th.

4 A. M. Mistook the Channel and ran on the
Mud. ! { I j> ' •' ■; • • •'* ■ ■ ■;

6 a.m. Cold Spring, one hundred and sixty-
three miles from Montreal. It being calm, we
took to our sweeps. The Channel now became
most intricate and tortuous ; on each side were
the Drowned Lands, which in wet seasons are
covered with water : the marsh was at this time
dry, and its tall reeds loaded with innumerable
filackbirds ; we also saw Snipes and Wild
Ducks. But what principally engaged my at-
tention was a mountain remarkable for its height
and form, and covered with a fine variety of
Wood, the White Pine pre-eminent, whose fo-
liage displayed the richest painting of Autumn.
The Scenery was altogether grand and roman-
tic, beyond what even the Hudson itself could
shew. Rocks and Mountains, Bays and Pro-

LAKE CHAM PLAIN.

255

montories, were combined with that happiness
of effect which Nature only can produce, and
which is in vain looked for in the ideal repre-
sentations of her by the artist.
,,; We saw many traces of the Musk- Rat, which
seems to have learned his art of constructing;
his habitation from the Beaver ; with this differ-
ence, however, — that while the latter appears to
trust his security to the strength of his works,
the former more wisely trusts to the difficulties
he places in the way of an enemy's approach.
Should man attempt to drain his marsh, he is
sure to tap the embankment.

I saw no cultivation on the borders of this
part of the Lake, except two or three recent
clearances. — Morning clear and calm. — Break-
fast on board.

lU A. M. Enter South-bay, one hundred and
seventy-one miles. Landed in Vermont, and
walked through the Swamp, as from want of
wind I could easily keep up with the sloop.
Gathered a few INuts of the White Hickory,
which I found very bitter. i

Noon. After a walk of one mile, (one hun-
dred and seventy-two miles) I re-embarked, a
light air from the S. having sprung u|).

1 p. M. Pass Putnam Rock, one hundred and
seventy-two miles, where General Putnam, with
twenty-four men, defeated five hundred French

256

LAKE CU A M P L A I N.

and Indians. Pass Fiddlers Elbow, so culled
from a sudden turn.

li p. M. Pass Castleton River, one hundred
and seventy-two miles and a half.

2 p. M. My Voyage b^ng conclnded, land at
Skenesborough, now called Whitehall, one hun-
dred and seventy-three miles. Wrote to Mr.
Heame. ■'• ••' ■..- :si.. a i. ... — :h ^ ,(.:i , -. ,:.

I had now traversed the vrhole length of
Lake Champlain, celebrated in the annals of
the American Wars, and frequently visited for
the beauty of its scenery. Its length is es-
timated at one hundred and fifty miles, reckon-
ing from the extreme points of embarkation,
Skenesborough and St. John's. This distance
between the two principal ports and marts of
Trade on this Lake is pretty correct, as the sum
of the distances set down in this Journal is one
hundred and forty-seven miles. The maps ge-
nerally give that part of the Lake lying between
Ticonderoga and Skenesborough the name of
South River and South Bay, a distance of thirty
miles ; and that lower division between the lie
aux Noix and St. John's is very properly given
to the Chambly River, which is an additional
reduction of thirteen miles, leaving one hundred
and four for the length of the Lake, which in its
broadest part does not exceed eighteen miles.

Having hired a waggon to transport myself,

ST. ANNS.

257

servant, and baggage, I at 3 p. m. set out upon
my journey to Albany. My road lay along
Wood-Creek ; the land on each side is bad, and
hemmed in by mountains. ■<}'"'. ^t'-'^-^^^'^i^fi^i^*-
6 p. M. Reach St Ann's, one hundred and
eighty-four miles. I found Lamb's an indiffer-
ent Tavern, but himself a very obliging Land-
lord. After dinner I dismissed my driver and
his waggon. I had contracted with the owner
of the waggon that he should take me to Albany
for ten dollars, a distance of seventy-three miles ;
but as he gave me to understand that I was
the only person obliged, I was determined to
convince this surly Dutchman that there were
others who would consider the obligation in a
bargain of this kind as mutual.

On making my wants known, Mr. King of-
fered me his services for eight dollars. Nothing
could be more moderate. I was aware of
the imposition practised on this road, and when
at Skenesborough I was asked twenty dollars,
and informed that others had given seventy, I
replied, " I know this is all true ; but I know
" also that you are Dutchmen, and if you do
" not take ten, I will walk."

It was in a common country waggon, seated
on two chairs, with straw under their feet, and
not even a tilt-cloth over their heads, that the
British Minister and his Lady traversed this
part of the country. :

'irjQ

8 T. A N N 8.

Mr. Morris, on the contrary, made this jour-
ney with a princely retinue, with Carriages,
Tenl, Maitre d'Hotel, Cook, and Kitchen es-
tablishment. He had guns and fishing-tackle ;
and wiiile he admired the beauties of Lake
George, of the St. Lawrence, and the woods of
Canada, he made them amply supply his table
with Fish and Game ; — so that the Representa-
tive of a Republic travelled like a Prince, while
the Representative of a Monarch travelled like
a Republican.

Tuesday, September 30th.

',.%•?. ^ A

6h A. M. Left St. Ann's. Mr. King requested
that I would breakfast at his house, one mile
further on, which 1 did on my own provisions,
having more spare stores than would serve me
to Albany. ■ifi' i /n'o'Tr-j <!;n -i .■. ;? -^i i u>-,

My road lay over a rough country, no part of
which had been under cultivation more than
two or three years ; — a country which checked
Burgoyne in his rapid career of victory; — a
country whose natural difficulties he found it
an Herculean labour to overcome, and to which
the Americans were more indebted for the sur-
render of Burgoyne and his Army, than to the
courage, or the superior number of their troops.

Passed through the new Settlement of Kings-
ton to Sandy-hill, one hundred and ninety-four

HUDSON RIVER.

259

miles, where I tirst got sight of the Hudson
River, and fell in with the Road from Lake
George, which Lake is ten miles to the N. W. ;
and Glens Falls on the Hudson, about two
miles to the W. These Falls were highly worthy
of a visit, but I did not know of their existence
till I arrived at Albany.

9k P.M. Reached Fort Edward, one hundred
and ninety-six miles.

Hi A.M. Dined on my own provisions at
Glusher's, two hundred and two miles. Noon ;
proceed.

I p. M. Cross the Hudson, at two hundred
and seven miles. My road from Fort Edward
to this place had been along the E. side of the
River; but from this ferry it keeps the right
bank all the way to Albany. Here is a re-
markable feature in the River ; it is still, deep,
and spreads out into two Bays, that to the West
running far inland; the whole length of the one
to the East we traversed in the Ferry, landing
at the very extremity of a sheltered Cove.

It was probably at this place that Burgoyne
passed his army, and whose encampment ex-
tended hence to the Fish-kill, a distance of two
miles, from the 10th to the 17th of October, 1777,
when this gallant band was under the mortify-
ing necessity of piling its arms.

Passed the Fish-kill or Schuyler's Creek,

2 L

200

s r I L L w A r r. h .

two hundred and nine miles. To tiie right I
8aw the Church at Saratoga ; on the left, due
east, was a mountain which I had long had in
view : this remarkable mountain is, 1 have great
reason to suppose, the same which 1 observed
from the Heights W. of Albany.

2^ p. M. Took a second slight refreshment at
Fitzsimmons' Tavern, two hundred and four-
teen miles.

3J p. M. Proceed on foot, and cross the two
fields of battle of the 19th of September and
7th of October, 1777. Pass through Stillwater,
Iirettily stiuated.

5^ p. M. My driver again baited his horses,
two hundred and twenty-three miles ; proceed
on ft)ot. '

7^ p. M. Take up my lodging for the night at
a Dutch Tavern, two hundred and thirty-one
miles, having journeyed forty-seven miles this
day ; — good travelling for a farmer's waggon !

My Landlord, like the generality of Dutch
Innkeepers, was churlish, and extravagant in
his charges. The soil of America appears not
to have any influence upon the character they
brought with them from the Fens of Holland ;
they are still to the tenth and twentieth generar
tion X>tt/c/* in person, dress, mind, and manners.
On crossing the Hudson, the Dutch Ferryman
asked me for my fare as a foot passenger.

T H 1<: C O H O K 8 1- A L L S.

2(n

" How 80 ?" — " Because you got out of the
" waggon ; iiad you remained in it I must liave
" been obliged to consider you as part of the
" load." — Fine pleasant day and evening ; moon-
" light night. . -

Wednesday, Octouer 1st.

6 A. M. Begin my last day's journey. Pass
through the handsome Village of Waterford,*
or Halfmoon-point, two hundred and thirty-
three miles. View of Lansingburg,t on the op-
posite side of the River. Cross the Mohawk,
over the Bridge at the foot of the Cohoes Falls,
near which I breakfasted at Forth's Tavern, two
hundred and thirty-five miles. After breakfast
1 visited the celebrated Cataract of the Cohoes,
and strange to say, I was more pleased with it
now that I had seen Niagara, than I was live
years ago, when I beheld it with disappoint-
ment. I then expected a grand and romantic
Fall ; I now amused myself with comparing its
features and character with those of the many

* " On December the 3(1, 1804, an excellent Bridge, 800 feet
" in leng^th, across the Hudson, from Waterford to Lansingburg,
" was o|iened with inuuh ceremony and eclat. A itrocession,
" military, civil, and masonic, was formed at Lansing'Inirg,
" crossed the Bridge, and partook of an entertainment at Water-
*' ford ; the Governor and other respectable characters being
" among the guests." — New York Paper.

f I visited tiiis place and Waterford on thf 23d of June, 179.J.

26-2

TROY.

Falls which I had lately seen. Niagara over-
hangs its base; — this projects in massy abut-
ments; the Rock is of a very hard r^uality, yet
in the bed of the River, which iu solid Rock,
the water has worn deep furrows and channels ;
so that in one place, the water being low, the
River was collected into one of these channels,
about thirty feet wide, where the stream was
very deep and rapid, all the rest of the bed
being dry excepting the pot-holes — circular ca-
vities formed by the rotary motion of stones and
water. This River furnishes Pike, Bass, and
Trout.

9 A. M. Proceed.

9} A. M. Opposite to Troy, the view of which
is highly beautiful from the Ferry-house; a
noble River ran in front, and in its rear rises a
high screen of varied woodlands.

I now passed through a range of meadows
that might vie with the celebrated German Flats,
previously mentioned. 1 may here observe, that
the country improved in beauty and fertility as
I proceeded from Skenesborough to Albany.
I had observed on my route Pheasants, Black,
Red, and Ground Squirrels, a Sea-gull, and a
Skunk. I had almost forgotten to observe, that
in the meadows just spoken of, are some of the
noblest Elms I ever saw, and many covered
with Grape-vines to their very summits.

A I' I' U () A Cll TO ALBANY.

203

I was now no longer in a Htrange coimtry ;—
step by step I recognized some well known oU»
ject pointing out the vicinity oi Vlhany. Fiir in
the horizon rose the Katskill Mountains, so
beautifully arranged as justified my fuiiner ad-
miration of them. The Hudson, broad, rapid,
and clear, reflected the early beams of the
morning, and the neat and comfortable dwell-
ings lining its eastern banks with the towns of
Troy, Lansingburg, and Bath, overtopped and
contrasted by the neighbouring wooded heights :
these, with the gay spreading meadows and
their vine-covered elms, formed a glowing
scene, that gave fire to my spirits ; for a more
animated prospect I had not beheld since I left
New York. All that eagerness and anxiety,
all that " pleasing hope and fond desire," which
agitates the bosom of those returning after a
long absence to the abodes where affection
has been awakened, and where expecting friends
are stretching out the arms of welcome, took
possession of my soul : not that Albany, or its
inhabitants, had any strong hold upon ray affec-
tions ; but in Albany 1 saw the haven from
whence I had departed, and where I should
end, all that had been new and doubtful of an
Expedition, which, however pleasantly prose-
cuted, and however happily terminated, had
not been without its cares, its apprehensions,
and its dangers.

,1 ii[

264

ALBANY

" The Genesee Fever' was still proverbial for
its malignancy, though tiaw unjustly so ; yet a
schoolfellow of mine, Mr. Dennison, of Not-
tingham, would have been added to the list of
its martyrs, had not the benevolence of Captain
Williamson interfered. Many others of my ac-
quaintance who visited the Genesee were seized
with the fever ; indeed few of them escaped it.
Shooting the Rapids of the St. Lawrence will
never be considered as boy's play: unknown
dangers, too, no doubt, oft hung about me, but
hidden from my sight and averted by that
Almighty Being, who, in two impressive in-
stances, snatched me from destruction when
all hope of other aid had died within me. With
such sentiments, (and who in like circumstances
would not entertain such sentiments ?) could 1
do other than hail the sight of Albany ?

lOi A. M. Reach Lewis's Tavern, Albany,
two hundred and forty-live miles from Montreal.
Waited upon the Rev. Thomas Ellison, Mr,
Ramsay, and Mr. Walsh. — Tea and Supper at
Mr. Ellison's. — Pleasant bright day.

Thursday, October 2d.

r; I'

liH"

Wrote an account of my adventures to John
Johnstone, Esq. of Geneva. Met with Mr.
Archibald Kane, who had so well entertained
UR' at Canaj(»iiiir('r. Dint'd with the Mayor,

; Vti

A L IJ A N Y.

2U5

Philip Van Rensselaer, Esq. who invited a large
party to meet me. — Took my passage for Nev/
York. , .

Friday, October 3d.

I passed the morning in wandering about the
environs of Albany.

M P.M. Embarked. On stepping on board
the Sloop Magdelene, Capt. Wendal, I recog-
nized Mr. Cuyler, of Green-bush, from whom
I had received civilities on my first visit to
Albany in 1795, and father to Mr. Wm. Cuyler,
of Bath, Steuben County, with whom I had
formed a friendly intimacy during my residence
in Captain Williamson's family.

Mr. Cuyler introduced me to my fellow-pas-
sengers, Mrs. Bruce, a widow lady of New
York; and Mrs. Le Roy, his daughter, the
wife of Mr. Robert Le Roy, Merchant, of New
York. I was so much pleased with the appear-
ance of these Ladies, as to be happy in so re-
spectable an introduction ; while to them it was
no little gratification to find that their future as-
sociate was no stranger, but one to whose pro-
tection Mr. Cuyler cheerfully confided them as
his acquaintance and his son's friend.

Mrs. Le Roy had her two children witli
her ; .Tacob, about seven years of age, and

I'm

')l ii

THE LOWER OVERSLAUGH.

Louisa, in her third year. Immediately after
ray introduction, Mr. Guyler took his leave,
and we set sail with a smart fair wind at N. W.

5 p. M. Grounded on the Upper Overslaugh,
three miles.

7 p. M. Grounded on the Lower Overslaugh,
eight miles. As there was no prospect of our
getting over this shoal till the tide had attained
its highest point, we took in all our sail and car-
ried out an anchor into deep water. This Lower
Overslaugh has seldom more than eight feet
water upon it even in Spring tides, and our
Sloop drew seven feet, though a great part of
her lading was on board a Lighter, and not to
be shipped till we had passed these shoals,
which are a severe interruption to the navigation
between New York and Albany, and which
might otherwise be carried on in vessels of larger
burthen than are now employed in this trade.
There are a variety of channels among those
beds of sand called the Overslaughs, and the
main channel shifts almost every year. The
remedy is easy : block up all the channels ex-
cept one, and the water will accumulate there
and keep it ever free.

Having made all snug on deck, we sat down
to an excellent supper, which had been sent on
board by Mr. Cuyler. I found the two Ladies
precisely what I wished Ladies in a ship's cabin

THE SLOOPS CABIN.

^67

to be ; — not so free and ecisy, as to forget the
manners of the drawing-room ; nor so starch
and full of self-importance, as to raise contempt
and disgust. •" '♦ '^ ^-^^ <^'« <-** * ^ '•rMrAt\2\

Hitherto I had voyaged with Ladies too free,
or too consequential. Having at this time no-
thing to fear from coarse manners, or mistaken
pride, I had only to guard against, and prevent,
another source of much uneasiness and con-
straint, which, among those the best disposed
for harmonious intercourse, inevitably arises
from the want of that proper understanding
which delicacy, seemingly, forbids. 1 thus
opened the subject: — " You will observe, Ladies,
" that we all sleep in the same cabin ; that a slight
" curtain only separates us. I know from ex-
*' perience that a system, understood by both
** parties, should be adopted for our mutual
" convenience ; for where false delicacy hds pre-
" vented explanation, — constraint, inquietude,
" and real indelicacy, has been the consequence.
" My plan is simply this : — that we sup at
" eight, breakfast at eight, and dine, as wind,
" weather, and circumstances permit ; — that we
" chat and talk an hour or two after supper,
" when I will keep the watch on deck for an
" hour,-— time sufficient, surely, for you to put
•• on your night-caps ! one hour before, and two
*' hours after dinner, I will leave you in full

2 M

2()8

CASTLSTON.

" possession of the cabin ; but at no time do I
" wish to have exclusive possession of it myself,
** as I shall always make my toilet before
" breakfast. I am an early riser, and will walk
" the deck till you announce breakfast."

The Ladies very kindly thanked me for yield-
ing so much to their accommodation, assuring
me, at the same time, that I had removed their
only objection to the sloops, so superior in
other respects to the journey by land. — Plea-
sant weather and fair wind, N. W. ; very bright
moonlight night. ., ,j _., , , . * , ,,

K'i' ,■!*:*«">< iTS-?,(«:

-t\'i 1;".

Saturday, October 4th.

-'*'**, ;v1

Went early on deck ; the dawn brought on
a heavy fog.

7 A. M. Being high water, we endeavoured to
warp off the shoal ; we succeeded only in part,
and were obliged to wait another tide. It is
always high water at Albany at the rising and
setting of the moon. • - < - ^ r?

8 A. M. The fog having dispersed, I took the
boat and rowed to Castleton, on the £. shore,
and having procured milk and eggs, I hastened
back to breakfast. On the W. shore 1 noticed
Colonel Nicol's house, where we landed the
accomplished tutor of his children on my voy-
age up. An Island which lay a short dis-

WILD GRAPES.

26d

tence above us, I recognized to be Overberg or
High-hill Island, which in June last afforded
me nothing better than sour cherries ; I deter-
mined, therefore, to try my fortune after break-
fast on a smaller Island that lay nearer to the
Sloop, and was about two miles in length. I
took two hands in the boat with me, and finding
the Island uninhabited, we took formal pos-
session of it. The province of discovery was
left to me, while my companions undertook to
procure a mess of fish.

There was great plenty of good Timber on
the Island, and so much Underwood, that I
found it very difficult to make the tour of it.
I collected the small black frost-grape, and the
large tough fox-grape. I was informed that on
some of the Islands in this part of the Hudson,
there were not only other species of the fox-
grape, but also a red grape, and a very fine
white grape, both unknown in other parts of
the United States. ' ' >•

On re-joining the two sailors at our rendez-
vous, I found that they had caught a dish-full
of Yellow Perch. '

On my return on board, I was sorry to ob-
serve that we had received two additional pas-
sengers, a Mr. Thurman, and his niece. Miss
Brazier.

<5 p- M. Being high water we succeeded in

270

COEYEMAN S ISLAND.

warping off the Overslaugh. We now took on
board our full lading from the Lighter, our
cargo consisting of four hundred barrels of pot-
ash, of four cwt. each, value £3 per cwt. or
£4,800* New York Currency, being thirty dol-
lars per barrel. >;;. . <>. j, -. ;^p^:^T..yjj-^^^ .^-y. ,ij«,f.;r'
Falling calm We out sweeps, and rowed three
miles, eleven miles from Albany, when we
came to an anchor. — Very fine day and night.

Sunday, October 5th.

C ♦, rf.*,-'*

K .Hi O

As the moon set the fog rose.

9i A. M. Fog cleared off with a light air from
the North.

10 A. M. Light head- wind from the South. :.

Noon ; Drifted to leeward of an Island op-
posite to Coeyeman's, twelve miles. Here was
another detention, but fully compensated to the
original party, by the beauty of the surrounding
scenery, and the harmony of our society. Mr.
Thurman was a sensible person, of a quiet and
serious cast His niece was apparendy of nn
unsociable disposition, which every effort of
our's to amend proved unavailing. She seemed
best pleased when left to her own meditations ;
and these, judging from her countenance, were
not very profound. ,;, , , ^ .. . ,■ , . . ,.

* As the New York Currency is eig;ht shillings the doDar,
.£4,800 is 12,000 dollars, or .£2,700 sterling.

VILLAGE OF COEYEMAN's. 27 J

As for Jacob, he Mras too wild for his mother,
and was put entirely under my care. Louisa
was my little darling. In the evening I took
Jacob with me, (a great favour) and made a
trip to the Village of Coeyeman's, consisting of
about thirty houses on the W. shore, and at the
mouth of Coeyeman's-kill. Visited General Mc.
Kay's. — Calm morning ; rain in the night

,.f,

Monday, October 6th.

"•'i

During the whole of this morning we had d
severe storm of wind and rain, thunder and
lightning from the South. Our situation to lee-
ward of Coeyeman's Island, which we yesterday
considered as a piece of bad fortune, now turned
out to be the most secure situation we could
have chosen.

3 p. M. The storm having spent its fury, and
the wind having got into the W. and being mo-
derate, we got under weigh. "" '' ' '

3i p. M. Abreast of Baltimore, fourteen miles.
This is a shabby Village on the W. shore, and
contains about twenty-five houses. " '

5 p. M. Abreast of Mr. Mc. Machin's house,
near Kinderhook Landing, on E. side, twenty
miles. Moderate as was our present rate of
sailing, we made still less progress in the night,
the wind having less influence than the tide.

272

CITY OF HUDSON.

Tuesday, October 7th.

><;

1 A. M. Came to an anchor off Lunenburg,
thirty-four miles.

6 A. M. As I did not care to trust myself
among the Algerines* I took the boat, and al-
lowing my young friend to accompany me, we
crossed over to the £. side of the River, and
landed at the City of Hudson, thirty-four miles,
where we procured milk, bread, and beef, but
no porter could be had. Jacob was quite de-
lighted with the frequent trips I made on shore,
when I never failed to take him with me, if cir-
cumstances would admit of it. It had two bene-
ficial effects : it put him on his good behaviour,
and tranquilized his mother, who never thought
him safe but when I b'»d charge of him ; for,
like a true " Pickle" his delight was to alarm
her by running into danger : the more dan-
ger, the more fun. Louisa saw her interest in
these expeditions ; — she never was forgotten in
our trafficking with the natives ; she took care to
be the first to rummage the basket, and gene-
rally found something for her own store-room.

8 A. M. Weighed anchor. The wind being
S. we had to beat down the River.

10 A. M. Abreast of the Village at the mouth
of the Katskill, forty miles. It is a pretty situa-

• Sec page 1.5.

K A T S K I L L MOUNTAINS.

273

tion in Jay's Valley. We had a fine prospect,
including the Katskill Mountains. On the op-
posite or E. side of the River was Oakhill,
the seat of John Livingston, Esq. of New York ;
forty miles. — Up top-sail.

11 A. M. The Old Manor-House of the Liv-
ingstons, on E. side, forty-two miles.

2i p. M. Chancellor Livingston and his mo-
ther's house, a fine situation, fifty miles. Wind
increased. — Down top-sail.

3i p. M. Abreast of the pretty and well-built
Village of Redhook, E. side, fifty-two miles.
The Katskill Mountains now appeared to their
greatest advantage.

44 p. M. A stately house, built by John Liv-
ingston, which, with two hundred acres of land,
cost fifty thousand dollars, E. side, fifty-six
miles. When we were abreast of the Esopus
Meadows, (sixty miles) we thought it time to
fill our water-casks, but to our vexation this
work had been deferred too long, for the water
was already brackish, at this distance of one
hundred miles from New York. The Captain,
in justification, assured us, that he had never
known the water brackish so high up the River ;
that the water is generally fresh in the High-
lands, and sometimes even in Haverstraw-bay,
sixty miles below our present situation.

10 p. M. Abreast of Poughkeepsie, E. side,
half way between Albany and New York,

274

NKWBU RO H.

eiglity miles. The wind had been very variable
the whole day, and our rate of sailing about
three knots an hour. — Fine clear weather.

Wednesday, October 8th. •." >

1 A. M. Came to an anchor.

6 A.M. Weighed anchor with wind S W.

8 a.m. Took the boat and landed at New-
burgh, on the W. shore, ninety-eight miles. This
is a large and neat town, and a considerable
part of it appeared to be recently built. If I may
judge from a Newspaper printed here once a
week, the great body of the inhabitants are
highflying Democrats. The title of the Paper
is, " The Rights of Man,** and sold for one
dollar and a half, or six shillings and nine-
pence sterling per annum, jftreakfast waited my
return. 1 brought on board a supply of bread,
milk, butter, tea, and porter ; for the porter I
paid three shillings and six-pence per bottle, or
two shillings sterling. "•' ~ '

10 a.m. Passed the small Village of New
Windsor, on the W. side, one hundred miles.
The Southerly wind died gradually away. On
its falling calm we came to an anchor ; instantly
Jacob and I jumped into the boat, and landed
at a solitary house called Marlborough, near
the mouth of Murderer's Creek, on the W. side,
one hundred and one miles. Wild chesnuts
were all that this place afforded us.

THE HIGHLAND 8.

275

We here received a forecastle passenger on
board, — a black wench, who surprised me much
by addressing me by name. She had been
servant to my Landlady at New York, Mrs.
Ford, a buxom widow, who married Belvidere,
a miserable Frenchman, who not being able to
pay for his board and lodging, was happy to
surrender his person.

5 p. M. Weighed anchor ; the wind being
from the S. we were obliged to beat down the
River. At this place the River forms a large
Bay, contracting at Polleple, or Porpoise Island,
being the entrance into the Highlands.

PoUeple's Island appears to have been the
foreground of Weld's view on the Hudson, the
Mountain on the right being the Butter Moun-
tain, and that on the left the Face Mountain ;
though it has more the appearance of a fancy
piece, so little is it characteristic of the sublime
and romantic scenery of the Highlands. The
profile of the Face Mountain so strongly resem-
bles the profile of the human face, that 1 had
for some time my doubts whether art had not
assisted in improving the likeness. I have seen
other blockheads which did not possess so sen-
sible a countenance.

8 p. M. Abreast of West-point, one hundred
and five miles.

10 p. M. St. Anthony's Nose, Fort Clinton,

2 N

27«

T A P A N BAY.

and Fort Montgomery, one liundnMl and nine
miles.* VIM \

11 p. M. Pass Peekskill, on E. side, and Dun-
derberg, or Thunder Mountain, on W. side,
one hundred and twelve miles.

Midnight. Pass Yerplank-point, on £. side,
and Stoney-point, on W. side, and enter Haver-
straw Bay.

Thursday, October 9th.

6a.m. Pass Teller's-point, on the E. side,
and Verdrielige-hook, on the W. side, one hun-
dred and twenty-five miles, and enter the Tapan-
bay.

10 a. m. Abreast of Tarry-town, one hundred
and thirty miles. The wind being still S. we
continued to beat down the River.

Noon. Came to an anchor during the flood-
tide ; took the boat and went on shore ; got a
supply of bread, milk, hay, and apples. We
were here informed that a sloop on her voyage
up from New York was lost in the Bay durinjj
the severe gale of the 6th. ' : -

This event most strongly impressed u|)on us
the folly of repining at what we called " bad

* See the Plate, where St. Anthony is in front, Fort Clinton on
the left, and Fort Mont|;oinery on the right. On asccailini; the
River the Plate represents St. Anthony on the right ; and Fort
Clinton is designated hy the house of Monsieur Diicet.

ai«

rAPAN fJAV.

i«d Fort Montgomery, one humhed aruJ nine
ntites.*

1 1 p. u. Pa«8 1% on E. side, and Dua-?

ane fe«ttl«'^ ■ --si**.

and Sfot*ey-po»at, oa W. t*ic!e, and enter Hav* r*
straw Bay

Thi'Rsdav, Octobeh Oth.

mA %'tmiitw^?'-'km>k.i ■;**,. •*- vv , 5»t«l«'. ot*e him*
drt^ ifcftd fweririy-five «liJtes,^sWld enter tk:- Ta^H^-
b&f.

10 AM. Abreast of 'rarry-towij, oa« huiidreil
and thirty miles. The wind being still S. Wf
continued lo beat down the; River. "■ *

' Noon. Carae to an audi or during the riood-
tii<le; itMik tht boat and went on sh«*«; ^>t m
snpph- #f y^ftss,, t»tli, ^f. md ^}p\m. We
w«re here i»l"or«M?«l tlia* a sloop on lur voyage
up fr«Jiai B8«w Y«r% !•«« lo»*t in the Bay <l«»riil^
the sfv<af» g8t»# ftf tli«* (*feh.

, 'I km if'i'm. m/mi irtron^iy inj|>regsed ujH»n «»
the foll|. ©if f«f*»«fMf at what we called '* bad

* Ste«lhe l****^, '.^ijsw^ Jli. Aiithrtn.v is in fronts Fort CliiUoii . =^
the left, and F(*rt Mw-^s^nmi-t y *m Ute right. On HscttMttiiijg ?,j-
River the Pbte i«!»<!!i*iiH»tR %. *Tith^ir m this right ; mA '^'-m
ClifiloB is (k»igiiiite<* t*5 »<■*« h«»»« of Moflsiwir Dncei.

NEW YORK.

277

luck," when if we did not " see through a glass
darkly," if we did not " see in part," and there-
fore only " know in part," we should often know
these apparently untoward events to be the
merciful interferences of the Almighty. !. ,. ;^

Had we not run aground on tho Overslaugh,
we should most probably have been in iAiese
open and exposed parts of the River during the
gale of Monday, and might have shared the fate
of the vessel which was overtaken by the storm
and perished. i nHumi^i

5 p. M. Got undei* Weigh, and, with a strong
ebb tide under us, beat down the River till mid-
night, when we cast anchor off the Spiking
Devil Creek, north end of York Island, one
hundred and forty-five miles.

Friday, October 10th.

5 A. M. Weighed anchor, and at

8 A. M. Landed in New York, one hundred
and sixty miles. Mrs. Le Roy was only a few
paces from her own door; I saw Mrs. Bruce to her
house in Broadway, and took breakfast with her.

I have now brought to a conclusion my nar-
rative of the events and reflections which oc-
curred during this my third Voyage between
New York and Albany. The first was made
in two days and eighteen hours ; the second in
three days and twenty-one hours and a half;

278

NEW Y R K.

and the third (an extraordinary coincidence !)
was exactly the length of the two preceding
ones, being six days and fifteen hours and a
half; — a very long passage when it is consi-
dered that the run has been .nade in less than
seventeen hours. ^ -^^ r4-' a^^kM-s, .«; „, , i.

Contrary to general experience, my passages
up and down this majestic River have been
pleasant in proportion to their length : my ex-
pedition last Summer was productive of more
agreeable incidents than that in the Summer of
1795, and inferior to this last in those circum-
stances that give so much character and interest
to scenes viewed in unison with congenial minds.

My former expeditions were made in crowd-
ed society, discordant in mind and manners:
where civility could not overcome rudeness, nor
good-breeding grossness ; and where noisy ig-
norance gloried in putting modest merit to
silence. How much superior, then, was my
friendly intercourse with Ladies elegant in their
manners, of cheerful dispositions, cultivated
minds, and possessing that knowledge of the
world which one of them had perfected in the
troubles and persecutions of civil discord, which
Wreaked its vengeance on the wife, for the po-
litical sin of loyalty in the husband ; Mrs. Bruce
having been imprisoned because her husband
(a physician) was a loyalist.

NEW YORK.

279

With my arrival at New York I shall con-
clude the Journal of this Tour, in the course of
which I traversed eighteen hundred miles of
country, during a period of somewhat more than
three months ; and which was to me by far the
most interesting of any of my numerous excur-
sions through the American Continent. The
view I have given of the manners and hospi-
tality of our Transatlantic brethren is faithfully
depicted without either partiality or prejudice ;
and therefore, from motives of gratitude for a
continued series of friendly attentions to a
stranger, as I was, I sincerely hope that it will
tend, in some degree, to dissipate those unfavor-
able impressions which former travellers have
seemed anxious to encourage.

•,--1, ';';;■ hi i'

r r ; ■ ' ' fl

•«•■ » Jj/

;'>,i((

^.tr'1 ''.■-■'' .•' >f

;» V J- ■ ^1^ I

ROUTE

rROM

ALBANY TO NIAGARA,

Sic i(c.

ROUTE

FROM ALBANY TO NIAGARA,

AND

UPPER AND LOWER CANADA;

AND THENCE TO

HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIAj

Extracted from the Minutes of Mr. Clay, of New York, taken
in 1798; those of Mr. L. taken in 1799; and an anonymous
Route received from Captain Ltman, of Nova Scotia.— The Notes
annexed to this Route are by Captain Williamson, in 1799; and
the Author of the preceding Tour, 1800.

Albany* to Schenectady, sixteen miles ; a
daily Stage. Fort Schuyler, now Utica, ninety-
six miles. From Schenectady to Fort Schuyler
you may take the Mail either on the N. or S.
side of the Mohawk River. I would not ad-

Miles.

* From Albany to Schenectady, 16

Bent's, 30

John Fonda's, 40

Dewight's, 56

Hudson's Indian Castle, . . 70
Aidridge's, German Flats, .80
Hotel, Fort Schuyler, ... 96
Hence, the road from Fort Schuyler to the Genesee, from being,

ill the month of June, 1797, little better than an Indian path, was

2 O

284

ROUT E.

vise going by water. The lliver has many
Rapids, and is a tedious business of four days.
If you intend to travel on horseback, you must
purchase horses at Fort Schuyler, and please to
observe they will ask you one hundred dollars

for what you will get for sixty. Tavern,

in Utica, is a dirty, bad house, but you will
find no other unless the new one is completed,
which I expect must be done, and is a hand-
some one. C.

Schwartz Hotel is an excellent house. Stages
run from Albany to Utica, where horses may
be purchased cheap and good. N. B. — Take
Saddles and Bridles from New York, or any
other large city. L.

Miles.

*T • J' n^ ) 1 11 a pretty good house. C.

* Laird slaverns,^. , ,. ,

> 107 a tolerable house. L.

The Landlady, a buxom dame, fond of com-
pliments. C.

so far improved, that a Stage started from Fort Sciiiiyler on the
30th of September following, and arrived at the Hotel, Geneva,
in the afternoon of llie third day, with four passengers. This
line of road having been established by law, not less than fifty
families settled on it in the space of four months after it wan
opened, ft now bids fair to be, in a few years, one continued
Settlement from Fort Srhuyirr to the Genesee River. All lust
Winter (1797) two Stages, one of them a Mail Stage, ran from
Geneva and Canadarqua to Albany weekly. Williamton.
* Laird's, on the Great Genesee Road, 106 miles. W.

ROUTE.

285

The Old Woman tells strange stories of the
Indians; at their first Settlement, twelve years
ago, there was not one house W. of them. L.

Oneida Castle,* one hundred and nineteen
miles, a Village of the Oneidas. Schonandoc
is the Chief, a fine old fellow, seventy years of
age ; speaks French a little. You may intro-
duce yourself to him. C. . i in

Wemps's Tavern,"!" one hundred and twenty-
three miles ; a clean house, two good beds. L.

This man is very intelligent and attentive.
A small log-house. I expect his new house is
complete. You must stop here to sleep. C.

Canadaraga, one hundred and twenty-nine
miles. A dirty Hotel is miserably kept here.
At the Indian Village an Indian keeps a Ta-
vern, which curiosity only would lead you
to. L.

Wood's, one hundred and thirty-five miles.

Keeler's, one hundred and forty-one ; clean
and tolerable — better than Wood's.

* Van Epps's, near the Oneida Reservation, 112 miles. W.

t July 5t(i, 1800. Slept at Wemps's, in a neat boarded house,
adjoining his old log-house; there are seven good beds in the new
part; much pleased with the neatness and attention of the people.
J.M.

Sills's, at the Deep Spring, 129 miles. . ..,

July 6th. Breakfasted at Sayles's, near the Deep Spring,
143 miles ; neat people ; Deep Spring worth visiting; water good.
\\u were novv in the Military Township of Manlius. J. M.

•28(1

ROUT K.

One hundred and forty-Nix miles, to lireak-
faat. TliiH Inn m five miles from the Salt Springs.
The men employed on those works are con-
stantly troubled with the ague and fever. A
quantity of Salt may be procured here sulKcient
to supply all America. C. -; » • " .

Old Keeler's, one hundred and forty-three
miles. li ..:^

Onondaga Hollow, one hundred and Jforty-
six miles, Squire Tyler's ; a good-looking house,
but dirty and ill kept. Six miles from this, on
Lake Onondaga, the great public Salt-works
are to be seen. Enquire the state of health
there, if it is late in the Summer. L.

Rice's, one hundred and fifty-six miles ; clean
and comfortable. Contrive to sleep at this
house, as there is not a good one between it
and Geneva.

Leonard's Inn, one hundred and seventy
miles ; a very dirty, bad log-house. You will
find two or three new Taverns built near this
place ; suppose are completed by this time ;
about eighteen or twenty miles from Keeler's.

Cayuga,* one hundred and seventy-six miles;

* Cayuga, Harris's Tavern, 186 miles. Bacon and grass
were all that was to be met with here, — worse accommodations
than I had yet met with. The New Inn is not yet finished; am
since informed that this building is now intended for a Court-
house. Bordering the Lake, near Harris's Tavern, is a fine
Spring of Water, which at present supplies the Town. J. M.

U O V T K.

it had Tavern, a tietter wus uhortly tu Im3 estub-

•II li.

Cayuga Lake, one hundred and eighty-four
miles. A good Tavern watt building here on
the top of the hill : the one on the edge of the
Lake was vile and dirty. ., (i .., , .,

J'erry,* one hundred and seventy-seven miles,
across Caynga Lake, — a beautiful ocene. X.
, Geneva, t one hundred and ninety-eight miles;
a fine handsome Tavern. You had better re-
main here tvv^o or three days, to recover your-
self. C.

Geneva on Seneca Lake ; \ a charming situa-
tion. The Hotel is established and supported

* A bridge is now built across the Lake at the Ferry ; was be-
gun in May, 1799, an<l expected to be ^slxhed in September next;
will be one mile and a quarter in length, and twenty-two feet in
width ; estimated cost, 30,000 dollars. J. M.

Cayuga Ferry, 181 miles. W. .

Gorham's Inn, 103 miles, on Seneca River ; good dinner ;
people neat and attentive. J, M.

\ Powel's Hotel, Geneva, 194 miles. Water, in this town, is
brought in pipes from a remarkable Spring, at the distance of a
mile and a half. W.

This water, from the pipes not being laid sufficiently under-
ground, is not so cold as that from a Well near the Hotel, which
latter has, on that account, the preference in Summer. This
Well-water is very good. J. M.

X Seneca Lake is forty-four miles long by four to six wide. —
In 1792, the road from Geneva to Canadarqua was only an Indian
path. On this road there were only two families then settled ;
and Canadanpia, the County Town consisted of only two small

288

R O U T E.

by Captain Williamson. Perhaps there is not a
better house in the United States for liquors,
attention, cooking, and stabling; nor for pro-
visions, if the Lake is productive in Fish — or
the Woods in Game. This is a desirable rest-
ing place. In the neighbourhood are some
Indian Orchards, Forts, &c. ; and an enor-
mously large Ox bred there. L.

Ganadarque,* two hundred and fourteen
miles. C.

Canandarqui, two hundred and six miles. L.

Two bad Inns. I remained here a fortnight
with Mr. Morris ; a pleasant situation. C.

Canandarqui, on the Lake of that name.
Handsome Village; but no Tavern in it will
appear tolerable after leaving the Hotel at
Grcneva. Lt. 'K^^^^^^'M'' .''i'Wt'-'MK^h''^M

Bloomfield,t two hundred and twenty-six
miles, a good house. C. .1.1 '.'i -iv;is:A.ii*i«,*i;j

Two hundred and eighteen miles, a good
house ; several fine Settlements. L. i, ,;,,»('

.IM .it^ f'H '■

- . v*-^'') »(•' if; .,^«'-'i'i

frame houses and a few huts, surrounded with thick woods.
From Canadarqua to the Genesee River, (26 miles) only four
families resided on the road. Through all th;;^ country there are
not only signs of extensive cultivation having been made at some
early period, but there are found the remains of old Forts, where
the ditches and gates are still visible. W.

* Sanburn's, Canadarqua, 210 miles. W. " ' ''*' '
t Sears' and Pecks', 223 miles. Scanion's, on the State Road,
224 miles. W.

ROUTE.

28P

Canawagos, or New Hartford,* on Genesee
River; — Mrs. Berry's, clean and decent. An
excursion to the Falls of the Genesee is recom-
mended. At Big Tree, higher up the River,
the Flats f are much more extensive than at
New Hartford : the grass is ten feet high. Across
the Flats is a Village of Senecas. Between the
River and this place there is a remarkable
Spring called the Big Spring. L. ....

Genesee River, \ two hundred and forty-two
miles. -■; . , ii , .,•

Peterson's Tavern, § two hundred and forty-
seven miles, by the Deep Springs. Here you

* New Hartford, 235 miles. W.

\ It is diflicult to account for these openingfs, (large tracts of
land free of timber,) or' for the open Flats on the Genesee River,
where 10,000 acres may be found in one body, not even encum -
bered with a bush, but covered M'ith grass of such height, that
the largest bullocks, at thirty feet from the path, will be com-
pletely hid from the v' aw. This kind of Land, from the ignorance
of the first Settlers in regard to its quality, was supposed to be
barren, a.id six years ago (in 1792) would not have sold for
twenty-five cents an acre, is now reckoned cheap at ten dollars
an acre. W.

X A new Settlement was this year (1707) begun on the west
side of the Falls of the Genesee River, about nine miles from
Lake Ontario. The navigation of the River is here intercepted
by four successive magnificent Falls, the highest of them 96 feet,
with the Rapids above, the total height is 300 feet, within the
space of one mile. These Falls, for beauty, are not inferior lo
those of Niagara.

§ Peterson's, at the Big Springs, 241 miles. W^ ■-'

290

ROUT E.

must sleep, or go to Capt. Ganson s, two hun-
dred and fifty-two miles and a half, which is
not so good a house, and is the last on this
Road. C. <|t» "f'v,ti;|Ui ,^Mv --,'i\ ■:>': '.-j;n;! r c-
Ganson will be troublesome if he is suffered
to get tipsy. He is the last Settler between
Genesee River and Buffaloc Creek on Lake
Erie. Seven miles on the Road, the Holland
Company's Purchase commences, and where
they had a Store-house for the Surveyors, at
which Mr. EUicot, or a Clerk, staid, and would
allow strangers to rest there : but it was ex-
pected some Settlements would be made be-
tween Ganson's and Buffaloe, in the Spring of
1800, and the Store-house deserted. It is there-
fore requisite to make particular enquiries before
you come to Genesee River respecting this part
of the Road. Enquire also about the Road
through Tantewante Swamp, which is much
the nearest to Niagara ;* but sometimes dan-

* Should curiosity induce you to visit the Falls of Niagara, you
will proceed from Geneva by the State Road, to the Genesee
River, which you will cross at New Hartford, west of which you
w:ll find the country settled for about twelve miles; but after that,
for sixty-6ve miles, to Nia^ra River, the country still remains a
wilderness. This road was used so much last year (1707) by
people on business, or by those whom curiosity had led to visit
the Falls of Ni^ara, that a station was fixed at the Big Plains to
shelter Travellers. At this place there are two Roads that lead to
Niagara River ; the South Road govs by Buffaloe Creek, the

ROUTE.

291

gerous in wet weather, and always difficult to
find. If no new Settlements are made, you
will have to take some provisions. L. :i^'> '
From Ganson's to Buffaloe Creek, neither
Log-house or any accommodation, and is se-
venty-four miles. You cannot easily miss the
way, provided you keep the Indian track : you
must purchase a blanket at Canadarqua, and
carry your provisions with you for the seventy-
four miles, which takes you full two days. Take
care and you need only sleep out one night ;
mind and have a flint and steel, and some punk.

other l.y ' nnwandoe Village to Queenstown Landing. The
Road b "" c Creek is most used, both because it is better,
and beca. » ' jommands a view of Lake Erie; and the Road
from this to the Falls is along the banks of Niagara River, a very
interesting ride. The River is in no place less than a mile over,
and the picture is enlivened by a variety of landscapes. Niagara
River is the only outlet of Lake Superior, and all those immense
Lakes that afford, from the Falls, an uninterrupted navigation of
near 2,000 miles to the westward. As you approach Chippaway,
a military station two miles above the Falls, the rapidity of the
River increases, bounding to a great height, where it meets with
resistance from the inequality of the surface ; and this vast body
of water at last rushes over a precipice of 170 feet. The Falls
can be viewed from several different places; but they are seen to
most advantage below. You can, with safety, approach the very
edge of the Fall, and may even go some distance between the
sheet of falling water and the precipice ; but this experiment re-
quires caution : the footing is unequal and slippery, and blasts of
condensed air rush out with such violence as to deprive you, for
some moments, of the power of breathing. W.

2 P

292

ROUT E.

You will find a fire at night very useful, if tlie
weather should be quite warm. <ui .^ ><

The Holland Company's Store-house, two
hundred and forty-nine miles.

Creek on the Big Plains,* two hundred and
seventy-four miles and a half. Here you will
stop and refresh yourself. The water is good
and the situation beautiful. You may unsaddle
your horses and turn them loose ; they will not
leave you. May rest here two hours very
safely.

Tannawantee Creek, f two hundred and
eighty- six miles and a half: good water and
plenty of crayfish, if you look after them. Here
you must build your house for the night, and
you will want an axe, which you must buy at
Canadarqua, and make a large good fire. Need
not mind wood, as it is plenty. You will have
occasion for a good fire. Breakfast before you
set out. C. ■"'■'•

Twelve-Mile Creek, three hundred and six-
teen miles and a half. Here you will dine.

* Station, on the Big Plain, 274 miles. W.

" We slept at Big Plain, twelve hours' ride from Canawagos,
" distance 33 miles ; stopped to breakfast at Butter-mill Falls,
" and at Tannawantee Creek, to dine: had frequently to cross this
" Creek. At midnight, much annoyed by gnats and mosqui-
" toes." — Due de Liancourt.

f*^ Second Day. — Dined at Tannawantee; 15 wigwams; slept at
" Smallfall's."— Our rfe £.

ROUTE.

203

Good water and good feed for your horses.
After you refresh yourself walk down the Creek
half a mile. If the Creek is low, the water
loses itself and comes out under the Rock.
If the Creek is full, you will see a fine beautiful
Fall. If you search under the Falls, yoa will
find stones resembling agate. C. . ■ j . » . .^■■

Mtlei.

': .u-j-'i4tj(,# '■■\iii JIT .'«.'*

BuffaloeCnjek,»5^^8i Tavern yerydirty C.
IZOX A bad Tavern. L.

Here you may introduce yourself to the Sur-
veyor, who has a house from which he sends
out his Deputies, who are surveying the Dutch
Company's Lands. See the Indian Village
about five miles from hence. C.

Ferry on the River Niagara, three hundred
and four miles, a little below Fort Erie.t Enter
Upper Canada. L. .,.

Miles.

^,. C 320 A very good Tavern. L.

•^'"PP^^'y-JsSOiAverygoodlnn. C.

* Buifaloe Creek, 317 miles, W,

" Third Day.— Fall in with Buffaloe Creek, 12 or 15 miles
"before yoa reach Village; Seneca Indians; forty wigwams;
"Creek; bad ford, muddy; four miles from Lake Erie. Before
<* you reach Settlement of Lake (Fort) Erie, pass Creek 40 feet
" in width, but so deep in mud, obliged to pass in cauoe and
"Jlounder your horses through the Creek. Three miles from
" this Settlement cross Niagara River." — Due de L.

t Fort Erie ; 50th Regiment, Major Pratt, Lieut. Faulkner.
Chippawa, opposite Fort Schlusser; unhealthy; pretty good Ta>

294

ROUTE.

...Here rest, and make excursions to the

Falls. L. K,H^ Jfu^^l A*{.f:< I' '» it iuvi: <:x*.f.

;. . At Bufialoe Creek you can hire a boat, and
go down Niagara River to Chippaway, which
is beautiful, and send your horses over the
Ferry ; or, cross yourself, you will find a charm-
ing ride on the banks of the River. At Chip-
paway, a garrison of a Company of the Queen's
Rangers, commanded by Lieutenant Co wel. If
you see him, please make my best respects to
his Lady. C.

Falls of Niagara,* three hundred and fifty-

vern; River three miles wide; at the Falls one mile in width ;
one mile and a half to the Falls; three miles to follow the River;
Falls 160 feet. Fort Chippawa, Captain and Mrs. Hamilton ;
Mrs. H. jolie, douce, aimable; tix enfant.

On Lake Erie, the Lotowha Sloop of War, of 16 fj^uns, forty
tons; cost .£6000 sterling; also the Chippawa Sloop of War,
Captain Haro. Niagara River above and below the Falls, and
the Lakes ; partially frozen ; ice carried down the Falls s^elivent
en matte touvent jutqu' i la moitii de ta hauteur!

Flour and Saw Mills near the Falls ; the latter curiously con-
structed; take one-twelilth for grinding, and one. half for sawing;
Sulphur Spring in the Canal of the Saw Mill ; Iron Ore near this.
The River first passes atQueenstown, nine miles from the Falls.

The Land from Chippawa to Newark, good, but not of the first
quality ; first settled about 1785, but principally in 1791 and 1792;
value two dollars and fifty cents per acre; cleared, to that in
wood, as 40 to 200.

The River contains Sturgeon, Pickerel, White Fish, Rock
Fish, Herrings, Carp, Salmon, Trout, Perch ; 500 and upwards
taken in three hauls of a net, 100 feet by 4. — Due de L,

* At the Falls 135 poles or 742^ yards wide, the end twenty

tt O I) T E.

205

two miles and a half. Do not miss observing
them from the Table Rock, and be sure to go
under them, and do not forget to carry a pint of
brandy with you, and some dry clothes. Leave
your horses at the Farm, a little below the

Falls. C. ■<> '\"M *. : ^ .■;;-:'Sh \'>',r. .-^ ^^;! '^i'-'Y

At the Falls, enquire for the Table Rock,
from which you have the best view of the Falls ;
and for the Indian Ladder, by which you may
descend to the bed of the River below the Falls,
and approach them. If it should be a cloudy
day, when the Sun, at one time, shines clear
and bright, and, at another, is deeply obscured,
you will then see the Falls in their true cha-

railes off ; tremulous motion in the earth ; wore away seven miles
of the Rock, the Fail being' (supposed) formerly down the north-
em side of the Slope, now known by the name of the Landing ;
present pitch of the Fall, 150 feet; 65 feet more of Fall to the
Landing, and 58 feet for half a mile of Rapids above the Fall; so
that Lake Erie is about 300 feet above Lake Ontario. — Andrew
Ellicot to Dr. Rush, dated Niagara, December 10, 1789.

From the Falls to Q,ueenstown, the nearest place to which
Shipping approach the Falls, the River is confined within a chasm
in the Rocks, 150 feet deep, and to all appearance cut out by the
force of the water. Queenstown is a neat village, and has all the
appearance of a sea-port : it is not uncommon to see at that place
several brigs of 100 tons burthen, and many smaller vessels. The
Fall was found to be 320 feet from Steadman's Landing, above
the Falls (of Niagara) to Queenstown Landing below : the dis-
tance to be cut (for the proposed Canal) did not exceed four miles,
nearly three of which is on a level with the navigable part of the
River above the Falls. W.

?Yi

■ I'

296

ROUTE.

racter. 1 will not attempt to describe them,
but be satisfied in pointing out to you the best
places, and best mode for taking this most
awful scene. Do not descend at your first visit,
as you will find your time fully occupied on the
Table Rock, and different parts of the banks of
the River, and you ought to employ five hours
in going to the bed of the River below the Falls.
It requires more time than you would expect,
and when you are below you will not be inclined
to return without a full investigation. The rain
has made many gullies in the banks of the
River, (which you will pass in going to the In-
dian Ladder) and firom the advanced points of
some of them, you may catch a view of the Falls
through the Trees in a very interesting manner;
but I expect there is not a place from whence
they can be seen that you will leave unvisited.
Attend particularly to the current of the River
as you go from Ghippeway to the Falls ^ also,
to the Spray of the Falls. See them by moon-
light. When you are on the Table a lock, also,
when you are under the Falls, remember to shut
your eyes, and stop your ears for a few mo-
ments ; and on opening them suddenly, if the
effect is not beyond your conception, your con-
ception is beyond mine. I did not go to the
United States side of the Falls, and understand
it is not worth while. L.

ROUT E.

297

Qneeustown * three hundred and fifty-nine
miles and a half. Between the Great Falls and
Queenstown is a Whirlpool, worthy of notice.
On the top of the Hill above Queenstown, take
a view of Lake Ontario, &c. ; also walk to the
banks of the River whenever you can, at and
between this Hill and the Falls. L. '(^>/ ''^

One mile before you reach Queenstown, ob-
serve well the view from the Hill, of the River,
and Lake Ontario. C. x .-^ ..-!.».': v>y vm>\

Newark, t three hundred and thirty-seven

• . .. .■■ ■ , , . '.•,.■ ,,'» . ,. ■ ,,. jr ..■•. •„. .:....•!

* Queenstown is the key to the trade of the Western Lakes,
and numbers of teams are daily employed between it and Chip*
paway: the distance by the carrying-place now in use, on the
British side, is eleven miles; the carrying-place formerly in use,
on the United States side, was only six miles ; but the mountain
forming the Falls is more abrupt. W. — [See the preceding Note
respecting the Canal proposed, to obviate the necessity of this
portage.] J. M.

Queenstown, first settled in 1792; tolerable good Tavern,
Mr. Hamilton's une tris-jolie nutison dant le style Anglais.—
Due de L.

■\ Newark, 100 houses ; Newspaper, the only one in Upper
Canada ; Colonel Smith, of 50th Regiment, possesses d,000
acres ; cultivated by the troops; 9d. sterling per day ; one dollar
per day is the usual wages for labour. Mtyor Seward, of the Ar-
tillery, and Captain Pilkinson, of the Engineers; Navy Hall;
General S>mcoe, Captain Parr, and Major Dobson, of the 60th
Regiment. Heat, close and oppressive; most so in the night;
Thermometer 92° ; to Kingston, 150 miles ; passage from sixteen
hours to five days; took passage on board the Onondago Sloop of
War, of twelve 6-pounder8, eighty tons, Captain Earle. Lake
Ontario, liable to sudden and dangerous storms ; not navigated

' i*.

290

ROUTE.

miles. At the mouth of the River Niagara, on
Lake Ontario, opposite to old Fort Niagara,
where there is a garrison of the United States.
X.

-j'The Commanding Officer resides at Newark,
and great improvements are going on. From
this place, or Queenstown, you will find a ves-
sel for Kingston.* C. 7 '-' " ' '

..i*-.'

;,i »

from November to April. Besides the Onondago, there is on
Lake Ontario, the Mohawk, of 12 guns, a Sloop of 40 tons and
6 guns ; the Missassagu, and two others, under the command of
Commodore Bouchette ; Captain's pay, two dollars per day;
First Lieutenant's, one dollar and twenty cents ; Second Lieu-
tenant's, seventy cents ; Seaman, eight dollars per month. —
■Merchant Vessels, — Captain, twenty-five dollars; and Seamen,
nine and ten dollars per month. On the borders of the Lake,
wild rice and hemp. Fort Oswego, Captain Mc. Donnel ; thirty
boats pass per month, seven months out of twelve. Twelve miles
up the River is the first American Settlement; thirty miles W. of
Fort Oswego, is Grand Sodus Bay, settled by Capt. Williamson.

* Kingfston, 130 houses ; not so well built as Newark ; three
Merchant Vessels; eleven voyages per annum. In two last years
exported to Quebec, 1,000 barrels of pork, at eighteen dollars
per barrel of SOSlbs. Land produces twenty or thirty bushels
of Wheat per acre; Wheat, one dollar per bushel; Wood, oue
dollar per cord ; Land from fifty cents to one dollar per acre ;
Schooling, one dollar per month. — Sugar Maple very abundant ;
no Sugar made in Upper C'^nada, but by the Indians, who make
from 2 to 3,U00lb8. per anuL- 1, and sells for twenty cents per lb.
Beaucoup de pierret tailonneutet, contenantet des imprestiont
d'animaux de mer. — Newark boards, 100 feet of one inch, sixty
cents ; one inch and half, ninety cents ; two inches, one dollar
and ten cents.— Kingston Boards, 100 feet of one inch, one dollar,
and the rest in proportion. — Due de Lianeourt,

ROUT R.

280

If you return to Utica on horseback, and do
not go through the Tantewantee Swamp, leave
your horses at Chippeway, and take the Stage
to Newark, you will thereby give your horses
rest, and they will fare better than at Newark ;
but if you go to Oswego, or into Lower Canada,
it must be by water, in which case you can sell
your horses at Newark or Niagara for what
they cost you, at least. Horses, that will cost
at Utica forty or eighty dollars, being hardy
and active, will perform the journey wonderfully
well. L. -

i'fK{,!0 :-..

.■',/f> ■ ; r?*.>;;nrC''

• . ■ - ■Ui,ilu

„

■'■■luiu'^)

. .,■.:.,.„.„,„,,.. y

•

-- - < - 1

'..:■- : Hit, •.•■H>ii

"' ' '.

>• I'ue ,1 K f.-^, ,• i;.<^ fi/T

> ^1 ■ / _•»

,■ ' f

.» ■ I . ■ I

' '*, i

-• ..•• . '.

2 Q

■A

MH) Ron T 1,.

'' ALBANY, ON HUDSON RIVER,

TO HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA.

»>JJ|Ji«v' ■ -i <n I 1'^:*,. , .t^ifirj^} Mile,. *i*^ 'UJ^V

Schenectady, (Gilbert's, bad) 10. ^^''^;

Dickson 8, - ■•• • -* • - • 32f OnlheiifAihawk

Whitestown, U»t'^"U •«* - 801 "'»•'•
FortStanwix,'- »i"4' U - 120^ ^"^'

Oneida Lake, - ""-'^ -; - 152 '* '^
Across tiie Lake, - - - - 184 FortBrewingrton.
Three Rivers Point, - - - 202 Binjrham..

Oswago, 224 '"^•■

Niagara, 374 -^ »^' *

Kingston, across L. Ontario, 614 ' ^ ■-^'"'

Montreal, 719^

Quebec, 899 > APost-iioad.

Camareska's, 999^

Across the Portage to Tarn- j ^^^^ ^^ ^^^^

eskwata Lake, - - S
Modawaska Settlement oQ||o«

French Arcadians, - ) ^ ,„^
Great Falls, British Post, - 1208f Birch Canoe
Presque Isle Ditto, - - - 1268 ( «'"»'

_, , . , , CI i /-v \ til* Courier.

Fredenckstown, the seat of } )

Government, - - - -)

_ ,,, _ «xi 1 «iir>((n tlie Packet

St. John's, Bay of Fundy, - 1418 { ^.^^ ^^^,^.^^
Across the Bay to Digby, - 1454 in a Packet.
Annapolis, 1472^

-_.. J , _-f,r Good Carnage

Windsor, 1559>- ^^^^

Halifax, 16053

ROU

T i:.

301

ALBANY

TO MONTREAL.

Albany,

Milvi.

■il-f.'\, :. 1 J'-;-'!

Mil«i.

Flats, - - .

Dr. Smith's, - -

Waterford, -

Burlington,

150

Hnlfinoon, -

Sandbar,

104

Stillwater, -

John Martin's, -

178

Ensign's,

Savage's Point, -

184

Dumont s Ferry,

Windmill's Point,

190

Fort Edward,

He aux Noix,

202

Sandy Hill, - -

St. John's, -

216

Fort Anne, -

La Prairie, «,j,^ ?

234

Skeensborough, -

Montreal, t,.*f:'

243

' .,'.!'''.«»M

' ^^^

'.■ ii ;?»• h\ i«-M

•1')

■■'•'■ f . .

• • "■'-■ t ■ f ,:.•••

'■■'H

1 .

V-\lf^.y'*^ ' .?»'»*

, >■/

r» <» •■' '.!•■ If

» .

• !{.

h'ii

,.,,^

i 1

APPENDIX.

.'»

!.< T

,tri>

I ..t.

/> 'H

I r

-I I

,,.. i

Mr. Hodgson, in the Appendix to his ** Letters
from North America," published in 1824, p. 413,
Tol. 2nd, gives a Translation of the first four
verses of the 19th Psalm, done at the Cornwall
School, State of Connecticut, under the super-
intendence of the Rev. John Serjeant, into the
Muh-he-con-nuk Language, being the Language
of the Stockbridge Tribe of Indians.

Dr. Douglasb, in his '* Historical Summary,"
published at Boston, (New England,) in 1749,
vol. 1, p. 189, writes, " Besides these (Indian
" Tribes,) there is in the S. W. corner of the
" Province of Massachusetts Bay, about twenty-
" five miles east from Hudson River, a small
" Tribe of Indians called Housatonicks, upon
" a River of that name ; they are lately inter-
'' mixed with the English in the Townships of
" Sheffield and Stockbridge." — I have no doubt

A 1» !• K N I> I X.

303

that the Housatonicks are the Stockhridge Tribe
mentioned by Mr. Hodgson, as the River from
whence they take their name rises in Stock-
bridge or its neighbourhood, and falls into Long
Island Sound, at Stratford, in Connecticut.
Why Mr. Serjeant called the dialect of these
Indians the 3Iuh-fie-con-nuk, instead of the Hou-
^a/ontc^ Language, is not so easily explained.

The Author of this Work has in his possession
the Second Edition of an Indian Bible in the
Natick Language, by John Eliot ; published at
Cambridge, (Massachusetts,) by Samuel Green,
in 1685, and dedicated to the Hon. R. Boyle, Esq.
Govemour, and to the Company for the Propa-
gation of the Gospel to the Indians in New
England and Parts adjacent in America. The
Dedication signed at Boston, October the 23d,
1685, by

WILLIAM STOUGHTON,
JOSEPH DUDLEY,
PETER BULKLEY,
THOMAS HINCKLEY.

304

APPENDIX.

?V. V • u '-.n^ PSALM XIX. . •:*/.<('■

Vernon of the Indian Bible in
the Natick Lanyuage, printed
at Cambridge, (N. E.) 1685.

Verse I.
Kesukquash wunn&litiihkun-
eau wusso!isum(')oi)k God, kah
mamachekesuk kuli kontuniuli
teaumoo wunnutchegane aim-
kausuonk.

The Reverend John Serjeant'*
Vertion in the Muh-he-con-
nuh Language.

Verse I.
Neen woh-we-koi-wau-con-
nun wih-toiD-mon-nau-woh
neb week-cliaii-nauq-tho-wau-
con Pob-tom-now-waiis ; don
neh pau-muh -lioTn-mau-we-
noi-eke wpon-nooth - ne - kaun
wnih-tau-nuh-kau-wau-con.

. . Verse II.
Woh-kom-inaun au|)-to-naiin,
don tpooh-quon wau-wiht-no-
waunnooh -torn -mail -wau-con,

' ■ Vbuse IK. -u'Si' >■'
Stoh nit-hoh aup-to-nau-
wau-con een-huh un-neekh-
tho - wau - conneh au-ton-nib
stob ptow-wau-mooq.

THE LORD'S PRAYER, IN
Malthen;
Part of Verse IX.

Nooshun kesukqut, qiittia-
naUmunach koowesuonk.

Verse X.

Peyaumooutoh kiikketassoo-
tamAonk, kuttenantain6onk iic
n nach ohkoit ncane kemikqiit.

Verse XI.

NiirameetHUongiish isekds-
iikokish assuinxinnran yeiiypu
kcMikok.

. Verse II.
II6sekueu kesukodtasb ke-
ketoolikon: kah b6hsek6eii nii-
konasli nateteanog wabteauonk.
vivii'.. M Verse HI.'"

W'anne unn6ntuowdoukauun-
noo asa mat penoowontoo wa-
onkanunnoo adt m(> nootamd-
muk iikkuttoowonganoo.

THE NATICK LANGUAGE.
Chop. VI.

Verse XII.

Kali ahqiioantainaiinnean niim-
niatcbeseongash, neaiic match -
enehukqueagig nutaliquontum-
ounnoiiog.

Verse XIII.
Ahqiie sagkompasftinaiin-
iiean en qiiti'lihtiauuganit, we
be pohquolnvussinnean wutch
matcbitut, Netvutcbe kiitabta-
uiin kctassflotanioonk, kah nie-
niihkosiionk, kah s/Tl)siiin(k)iik
inirluMiir. Aiiii'ii.

A !• V K N 1) I X.

iUh'i

" By Act of the Massachusetts Bay As-
•' sembly, Anno 1746, the Indian Reserves being
" distinguished into eight Parcels, Guardvar? or
" Managers for these silly Indians wer^ ap-
" pointed," — Speaking of thj Seventh Parcel,
Dr. Douglass adds, " The Indian Plantation of
" Natick, veith a Minister and Salary from an
" English Society for propagating the Gospel
" among the Indians in New England ; he offi-
" ciates in English, and his congregation are
" mostly English ; it lies about eighteen miles
" W. of Boston, not exceeding twenty families
" of Indians.

•' Mr. Eliot, formerly a Minister of Roxbury,
" adjoining to Boston, (N. E.) with immense
" labour translated and printed our Bible into
'* Indian ; it was done with a good pious de-
" sign in the Natick Language ; of the Na .icks
" at present there are not twenty familL^s sub-
" sisting, and scarce any of these can read." —
Douglass s Summary f 1749. ■*>

Of the Indians which composed the eight
Tribes existing in Massachusetts in 1746, ex-
clusive of the Housatonicks, whose Reserves of
Land were under the management of appointed
Guardians, not one is now living. Dr. Douglass
himself foretells their speedy extinction, " these
silly Indians" being persuaded (of course by
their Guardians,) to enlist as Soldiers, were

300

APPENDIX.

isent to Cuba, Gartbagena, Cape Breton, and
Nova Scotia. " Scarce any of them survived."

The Natick Language has therefore to all
intents and purposes become a dead Language.
That a person should be found to translate the
whole of the Old and New Testaments, with
all the Singing Psalms, into a Language which
was never a written Language, with those who
spoke it ; — that he should print two Editions of
this Indian Bible, which probably no other
individual except himself could read and under-
stand, is one proof among many of ill-directed
zeal. This Bible was the fruit of a Bible Society.
Other Bibles equally incomprehensible have
been since published through the same desire of
propagating' the Scriptures ; and though the la-
bour of such Translations is great, and the ex-
penditure enormous, yet it is not attended with
such difficulty as that of finding individuals who
could read and understand the Book when
printed. In fact these Translators make a Lan-
guage of their own, and their Works are " still-
born' from the press. . ^

'Vr

1)<

»• -V**

AMOUNT OF EXPENSES,

vKifK, Tp • '■•■^■■'t

■ f'iHiirti,"^^'* -it:*

;<5f ti

•* I'

THRBB MONTHS AN0 MNI&TBEN DAYS,

DURING A TOUR *'

THROUGH THE GENESEE AND THE CfANADAS,

In the Summer of 1800. :

«>

Dollon. Cent*!

''\ 3 12i

For a birth in the Packet from New York to

Albany, 160 miles.
Fare in the Stage from Albany to Canajo

haree, 55 miles, - - , •

Ferry across the Niagara River, - 1

Birth in the Packet from Queenstown across } . -1

Lake Ontario to Kingston, 157 miles^ >
Sailors, - - - * i * 60

Stage from La Chine to Montreal, 9 miles, 1
Half Fare of Calash from Quebec to the Falls 3 ^

of Montmorenci, 7 miles, - ^ ,},i '^,

Travelling Post in Calashes from La Valtrie > q qq

to Montreal, - - - >

Ferry and Stage from Montreal to St. John's, i

26 miles, - - - - >

Passage across Lake Champlain, 150 miles.
Waggon from Skeensborough to Albany,^

72 miles, - - - - >

Passage from Albany to New York, 1605

miles, - - - - >

Cartage of Luggage,

1 6i

2 50
9

30 88i

i 41

2 R

308

EXPENSES.

l)ay».

4
6
6
19
2

( TAVERN EXPEl^SES, &c.

Dollari. Centa.

On board Sloop from New York to Albany,
Bill, City Tavern, Lewis's, Albany,
On the Road from Albany to Geneva, -
Bills at Powell's Hotel, Geneva,
On the Road to and from Bath,

4^ Ditto from Geneva to Chippawa,

8 Bill at Chippawa, -
Ditto at Queenstown, -
Ditto at West Niagara,
Ditto on board Sloop Lake Ontario,

fV.

'.1

On the Voyage down the St. Lawrence ^

to Montreal, - ' ^^*' ^^» _^

■ • ■ M ii ■

3 Ditto from Montreal to Quebec, ,.- ,

3 Bill at Harrald's Coffee-house, Quebec,

6 From Quebec to Montreal, -

10 Bill at Dillon's Hotel, Montreal,

6 Montreal to Skeensborough, -

2 Skeensborough to Albany, - . , - „

2 Bill at Lewis's Tavern, Albany, • _'•

6i On board Sloop, Albany tu New York,

Sundries, - , - . . - -

90^ Tavern Exjy.nses, &c. 3 mo. IQdays,
Fares, Packets, &c. t«rtv? yi^d ntii-vi

J. M.'s /wrfwirfMa/ Expenses,

374

18|

68^

62^

37i

66i

90|

56i

93J

135

88i

166

29i

,-,^!<s;;\,ta»

A 1 <

III

EXPENSES.

.30!)

MY SERVANT, THOMAS LEWIS'S EXPENSES,

From June 14th to October 14th, 1800.

'» « >( ) ■*» f

T.}

7 Days' Board and Lodging at Tontine,
New York, -
Passage to Albany, - - .

4 Days on board the Sloop,
6 Ditto at Albany, _ _ .

Stage from Albany to Utica, 96 miles,
2 Days on the Road to ditto,
4 Ditto from Utica to Geneva, -
19 Ditto at Powell's Hotel, Geneva,

2 Ditto to and from Capt. W. at Bath, -
9^ On the Road from Geneva to Queenstown,
2i Passage and Expenses from Queenstown

to Kingston,

3 Days on Voyage down to Montreal,
22 Ditto Bill at Dillon's Hotel, Ditto,

Ferry and Stage from Montreal to St. John's, 1

Passage across Lake Champlain,
6 Days' Expenses on board the Sloop, -
2 Ditto on Road from Skeensborough to
Albany, - - _ _

2 Ditto at Albany,

Passage from Albany to New York,
6i Expenses on board the Sloop,
3i Ditto at New York, -

iOl

Dollars. Centi.

7 25

vni

12i

624

56i

31i

68|

18*

181

22i

. 1

56i

18|

62^

113 8i

Slew Pair of Boots,

8 50

'our months' wages at 12 dollars,

. 48

m) 581

310 RECAPITULATION OF EXPENSES.

EXPENSES CONTINUED.

Cost of two Horses, -
Ditto of two Saddles, -
Sold two Horses,
Ditto two Saddles,

Velise and Crupper,
Slioeing, - -

Saddle stuffing, - ,
Drugs and Blankets,
Hay and Oats,

Dullan. Genu. Dollart. Centi.

92 50;
50

'^142 50

100
30

130

12 50
8 25
5 93|

• vJL, ' .J, ■;

3 43J
60 68i

Expense of 2 horses from Utica to Queenstown, 91 8H
RECAPITULATION OF EXPENSES.

■^- '" ' Dollars. Centi. '£• *• ^•

My Individual Expenses, 166 29i - or - 37 8 3
My Servant's ditto, - 169 58i - or - 33 3
Two Horses' ditto, - 91 8U - or - 20 13 3

"T''

427 68J - or - i)6 4 6

■-?*

■I-'' oi' i^i-; ',

'A I -f ' 1 i .1 : I \' c

• tn*

• • SPACK OF

».'<,>o

COUNTRY TRAVERSED

IN rnE TOUR THnovon

THE GENESEE AND THE CANADAS.

■ ' • . • Country Direct

June, iHUO. j,i,p,_ jn,^.^_

21—26, Voyage from New York to Albany, 160 160

Excursions on the Banks of the> ,„

>• 12
Hudson, - - - 5

26 July 1, E''''.ursions in the neighbourhood ofi .^
' '■ Albany, - i^'.-v ■ . S

2 — 5, Albany to the Head of the Mohawk > , ,q^

Navigation, - - 5 ^>-200

5 — 7> Fort Stanwix, or Rome, to Geneva, 88 ^
8 — 15, Excursions in the vicinity of Geneva, 80
16—18, Geneva to Capt. Williamson's, Bath, 52 52
18 — ^25, Excursions ai'ound Bath, - - 60
26—27, Return to Geneva by different Route, 60 60
28Aug.7, VisittoaremarkableSulph. Spring, }
E. Shore of Seneca Lake, &c. S
8, GenevatoMr.Morris's, Canadarqna, 16 16
9 — 17, Excursions in vicinity of Canadarqua, 1 14
18 — 19, Canadarqua to the Genesee^
Falls, and Landing, - 3
19— 21, Genesee Falls to Buffaloei 00^'^"^ ^^^

Creek, Lake Erie, - 5
21—22, Buffaloe Crock to Chippawii, 18

UYM) 052

312 roUNTHY TUAVER8KIK

•

• i'f ■ T^':^:i

niruct

Milei.

Milri,

Aug. Brought forward, - - 1030

652

21^24, Excursions to and around the Falls"!
r of Niagara J extended to both > 44
sides of the River, - - 3

26, Chippawa to Queenstown, - 10

26, Excursion to the Whirlpool, &c. 16

27 — 29, Queenstown to West Niagara, 7 )

West Niagara, across Lake On- M57
tario, to Kingston, - - 150^

157

Excursion on shore at West Niagara, 3

29 S'ep.l, Kingston down the St. Lawrence?
to Montreal, - - - >

210

2 — 5, Excursionson the Islandof Montreal, 20

6 — 9, Voyage from Montreal to Quebec, 178

178

Excursions on the Banks of the St. ^
Lawrence, - - _ 3

9—11, Visit to the Falls of Montniorenci, 3
• and back, - - . S

Other excursions around Quebec, 16

12— 18, Return to Montreal, - - 178

178

Excursions from the Ranks of thei .
St. Lawrence, - - >

19—23, Further excursions around Montreal, 20

24oc<.l, Montreal to Albany, - - 245

245

3 — 10, Albany by water to New York, 160

160

Excursions on the Banks of thei
Hudson, - - - S

Miles Traversed, 2343

1804

N. B. — The imitial excursions on tliis Houte are 5<H) niiU's.

K K MARK H.

REMARKS ON THE ROUTE.

313

lif the Tour is reduced to its shortest line^
still preserving those principal points, Albany,
Geneva, Niagara,* and Quebec, including the
Falls of Montmorenci,* 163 miles may be cut
off from the 1804, being a remainder of 1641,
of which, more than three-fourths, that is to say,
1186 miles, may be made most conveniently
by water. The 163 miles to be omitted, are 6
miles saved by going from Utica to Geneva;
112 miles by omitting the Tour from Geneva
to Bath ; and 45, by not visiting the Genesee

Falls. •' '';:■: •,;•'.

* In this Route, which may be said to describe a tcalen
Triangle, the shortest side runs from New York N. W. to Outlet
of Lake Erie, 471 miles; from Lake Erie the course is N. E. to
the Falls of Montmorenci, 580; and from these Falls to New
York, a South line from Montreal, ilis6U0; making a total of
1641 miles.

■; «.'

VI (

'.( i);i . i

..< '•

i ^ \ /:

^ lv<5 W # .i ..*(' V/

.';« .wf ./(

< tf .»f.ii

« 1. ...(

•^■■»'t.

■ -jS .) « I •

»ij-. ,» *

.:li.'1 i..-,

r ^> <

■I I

INDEX.

MISCELLANEOUS.

Agfate, 128.

Agonizing^ scene, 148, 140.

" Agreeable horron," 232.

Af^riculture, vide Farm.

Albaniana described, 26,27.

Ale, excellent, 213. •! - i

Albany Beef, see Sturg^eon.

Algiers, why Lunenburg^ is so
called, 15.

Algerines, 272.

Anecdote of Betsy, the Moun-
tain Nymph, 6.

Anecdote of a Scotch Presby-
terian Minister, 13.

Anecdote of an Irish Gentle -
man, 14.

Anecdote of an Indian, 148.

of fellow passengers,
172,173. ,

Ant-hills, 149.

Antidote for bite of rattle snake,
77, 160.

Appendix, 302, 306.

Apple Trees, 31. '

Arks, 57, .'»8.

Archipelago, asingfularone, 177.
Arsenal at Quebec, 208.
Backwoods man, a skilful one,

71, 72.
Bald Eagle, 67. '' '

Barley, 78, 79, 92. '.

Bass, a Fish, 48, 202.
Bass, Black, 142, 177. ' '
BasM, White, 142.
Bass Tree, see Lime Tree, 41,

62, 77, 100, 114.
Bass Tree, favors the richest

soil, 100. I' - . .1
Bat and Dog, 142.
Bateau, descend St. Lawrence

inone, 176,184, 191, 203.
Bateau, ascend St. Lawrence,

211, 226.
Bateaux, Fleeto of, 176, 178,

181, 182.
Bath, a natural one, 166.
Bears, 77, 131, 132, '19, 160.
Beartraps, 77.

Beard, an Indian's! 117. .;
Beauty, Female, 232, 233, 236.

II.

INnKX.

Beaver, 255.

Beech, 37, 40, 41, 52, 67, 77,

114, 118, 124, 126, 128.
Beef, price of, 25, 26.
Birch, White, 242.
Blackbirds, 31, 57, 254.
Black Snake, 41
BInck Walnut, 114
Bluebirds, 103.

Boat, of improved construc-
tion, 90.
Bob-Lincolns, 24.
Bounty uf Land granted, 38.
Bread, excellent, 240.
Breakfast in the Unit^^d States,

29.
Breakfast in Lower Canada,

198.
Brickmsking', 93.
Brick House in the Genesee,

89.
Bridal ornaments, 198, ,• 1
Bridge, Cayuga, 47, 48.
dangerous, 106.
rapidly constructed, 109
new, building, 118.
over the Moliawk, 33,
261.
British tyranny and American

liberty, 60.
Broad-leaf Plantain, antidote

for bite of the rattlesnake, 150.
Brown-Tnrasher, 24, 103.
Buger's Leonora, 249.
Buildings,American style of, 63.
Bull- Frog, 33.
Burgoyne's encampments, 259,

260.

Butter, price of, 26.

Butternut Tree, 41,52, 93, 114.
a remarkable one, 03.

Cachenonaga Indians, 184.

Calash, Canadian, 184, 226227.

Campbell's Travels, 43, 45.

Canada discovered, 216.

Canadarqua described, 96, 97.

Canal at Niagara, contem-
plated, 164, 165.

Canadians, 231, 232.

Canaseraga Indians, 38.

Canoes, 148, 150, 241, 242.

Cartier, Jacques, di^oveK Ca-
nada in 1634, 216. "•♦•

Cascades, 22, 23, 26, 128.

Cat, 220, 222.

and Woodpecker, 222.

Catfish, 48, 100, 108, 155, 165.

Cattle fed on Forest Trees! 52,
53, 121.

Carro'ji, 23. '

Cataract of Niagara, feelings ou
approaching it, 133, 134.

Cataract f Niagara, on first
beholding it, 136, 136, 137.

Cataract of Niagara, on first
discovery, 138.

Cataract of Niagara, on leaving
it, 13».

Cayuga Indians, 129.

Cedars, 177.

Charlevoix's Travels, 139.

Cheese, 92. ;

Cherries, 23, 28.

Chesnut Tree, 77, 114.

Church, English Episcopal,
20, 23.

I N D K X.

iii.

fyhurch Roman, 187, 23d.

Cider, 31.

Clay's Route from Albany to

Miagfara, 283, 298.
Glover, White, 24, 41.

Red, 24. 72, 92.
luxuriantgrowth of, 52.
Climate, Qeoesee, 52, 70, 79,

84, 90, 91, 92, 93, lOQ.
Climate, at Montreal, 240.
Compass, Mariner's, bad guide

on land, 119.
Congress grants Lands to UiQir

Army, 38, 39. • ;

Convent of Hotel D^«a, 186, 187
Country, New York to Albany,

3, 18.
. ; Vicinity of Albany, 21, 28.
from Albany to Geneva,

29, 50.
from Qeneva to Bath, 56,
57,50. ... f I,, .,.,'■?

s from Bath to Geneva, 76.
from Geneva to Sulphur

Spring,- 82, 83, 84.
from Geneva to Canadar-

qua, 95, 96.
from Canadarqua to Genesee

River, 101,102.
Banks of Genesee River, 102
115.
, , from Genesee River to Lake
Erie, 115, 129.
Banksof Niagara River, 130,
131, 132, 133, 134, 170.
Banks of St. Lawrence, 176,
230.
' Montreal to St. Joliirs, 241,
243,

Country, Banks of Lake Cham-
plain, 243, 256.
from Skenesbro' to Albany,
256,264.

Cows, Canadian, 231.

Crayfish, 110.

Cro\ifra, 34.

Curious Stones, 200.

Curlews, 220.

Custom-house, 246.

Dances, 16, 237,

Danger imminent. 111, 250,253.

Death of General Wolfe, 216.

Deep Spring, 40.

Delaware Indians, 129.

Deer, 77, 86, 100.

Deer, killed with scythes, 74.

De Liancourt's travels, 17.

Dinner, singularly filthy, 73, 74

Disaffected Counties of Penn-
sylvania, 60.

Dog buried alive under the root
of a tree, 94.

Dogs in Water-Carts, 213.

Dogwood, 77, 83, 100, 114.

Douglas, quotation from, 171.

Duck, shot by an old Seneca
Warrior, 117.

Duck, shot by Mr. Jones, 244,
245.

Ducks, wild, 31, 151, 224, 244,
245, 254.

Dutch extortion, 257.

fireside and funerals, 27.
frows, 27, 232.
market girl, 24.
waggons, 28, 29, 87,257.
wit, 6.

Dwarf, 34.

iS-

fv.

I iN O K X.

Eagle, 177.

Eels, 48, 49, 100, 166, 201.

Eggs, price of, 26.

Ellicott's Letter to Dr. Rush,

162, 163.
Elms, 41, 77, 262.
Embarkation on the Hudson

River, 3, 265.
Emigration, 60, 120, 127, 133.
Engages, traits of character,

176, 182, 183, 193.
Engages, their conduct on
shooting a Rapid, 182,
183.
Expences trarelling, 307.
Family large, not burtheusome,

30.
Farm, Williamson's, 64, 65.
Piatt's, 71, 72.
East of Seneca Lake, 86.
Morris's, 90.
Stafcr's, 104.
Davis's, 120.
Ransom's, 126, 127.
Canadian, 231.
Filth, its ne phis ultra, 73.
Fields of Battle, 7, 8, 10, 170,

203, 204,
Fir, Scotch, 22.
Fir, see Pine.
Balsam, 242.
Larch, 242.
Hemlock, 242.
Spruce, 242.
Double Spruce, 242.
Falls, see Cohoes, Genesee,
Glens, Mohawk, Montmo-
ren(i, Niagara.
Fish, in Cayuga Lake, 48.

Fish, in Cunadarqiia Lake, 99,
100.
in Niagara River, 156,

166.
in Mohavk River, 262.
a strange one, 66.
Fishing- hawk, 151.
Fishing- party, 67.
Flattery, grateful in a wilder-
ness, 124, 125.
Flax-dressers, 232.
Fleet on Lake Erie, 120, 130.
Flies, the plague of, verified,

131.
Flour-wheat, best quality, 58.
Fogs, 193,225.
Forest of Ages, 105.
Forts, ancient remains of, 182.
Fowl plucked alive! 221.
Foxes, Red and Grey, 9.
Freemasons' Lodge, 205.
French Seminary, 186.
Frost, a keen one, August 20th,
and same day, mosquitoes
still keener, 123.
Gardens, 120, 129.
Gardenstone's Lord, Travels,

242.
Garrisons, 142, 171.
German It'easantry, 232.
Garter- Snake, 41.
Genesee Country, enter the, 60.
when and in what man-
ner settled, 61 , 71, 72.
Genesee Falls, their distance

from Niagara, 111, 112.
Genesee Fever, 92, 93, 264.
Road, the Great, 33.
Wheat, 68.

■I'

I N n K X.

(i\\ Bias' Leonora, 73.
Grain, luxuriant Crops, 32, 34.
Grape Vines, 262, 260.
Grapes Wild, 24, 269, great va-
riety of, 269.
Grasshoppers, 133.
Grass ten feet high ! 104.
Grouse, 8, 96.
Grub, the Pine, 22.

in Sulphur Spring, 83.
Gulls, 151.
Gypsum, 157.

Half an Hour's Chat, 211, 212.
Hares, 9, 78.
Harrowgate Water, 83.
Harvest, 72, 74.
Hats, Beaver, Manufacture of,

89,
Haunted Room, 205, 206, 207.
Hawk, 103.
Hay, heavy Crops, 41.
late Crops, 86, 100.
second Crops, 224, 232.
its scarcity, 125.
Ilayiield, volunteer two days'

work, 69, 70.
Haz^l-nuts, 103.
Health, state of in Genesee, 9^.
Hemlock Pine, (see Fir,) 49,

59,68,77,82, 114,177.
Hennepin's Travels, 139.
Hessian Fly, 79.
Hickory Tree, 41, 62, 57, 77,

100, 114.
Hickory Tree, white, 2.55.
Hogs, how fedf 22, 26, 42, 69.
Holland Company, 32, 118,127,

128, 129.
Holland Purchase, 103,118,119.

Hoot-Owl, 37.
H( ;'n, prodigiously largf, 76.
Horses purchased on the Mo-
hawk, 31, 33.
Horses of a superior breed, 66.
cured, 93.

sold in Canada, 160.
expences of, 310.
Canadian, 226, 227.
Horse-fly, dreadful, 95, 96,131.
Hospitality, American, 30, 95.
Canadian, 238,239.
Dutch, 27.
Hotel, excellent, 88.
Huckle Berries, 8, 80.
Humming Birds, 71.
James's Powders, 93.
Jay Bird, 103.
Jay's Treaty of 1794, 172.
Impenetrable Secret, 238.
Indian Squaw, 37.
Youth, 37.
Settlements, 37, 38, 42,

!24.
Ditto deserted, 52, 96.
Indians s ipplanted, 29.

described, 51, 101.
kill Venison, 56.
burn the W .)ds, 59.
set Traps, 77.
sell Wortleberries, 80.
encamped, 51, 96.
metwith, 37, 38,51,96,
101,103,117,124,129.
the Infant, 97.
Colonel Brandt, 97,129.
Hotbread, 117.
Canawagos, his Mother,
117.

ii^

vi.

INDBX.

Indiaus gaily dressed, 120.

at Tannawaotee, 124.
on Buffr loe Creek, 120.
attack Waggon Train,

144,145.
Resignation of one, 148.
Inventive Faculties, 174.
Conversion, 184.
Inquisitive Doctor, 49.
Iron Wood, 77, 100, 114.
Keswick Lake, (6. B.) 23.
King Bird, 103.
Kingfisher, 84, 133.
La Hontaine's Travels, 130.
Lake Fleet, 129, 130, 143.
Lakes of Fresh Water, the larg-
est in the known world, 165,
166.
Lake Luck, 195,223,243.
Land, productive powers of, 32,

72, 97, 102, 103.
Land, value of on the Mohawk,
29.

at German Flatts, 32.
at Whitestown, 34.
Military Townships, 39.
at Geneva, and in the

Genesee, 74, 88, 97.
Head of Canadarqua

Lake, 74.
Banks of Ditto, 97.
Bloomfield Township,

103.
New Hartford, 103.
within the Holland Pur-
chase, 103.
Big Spring, 115.
Caledonin, 116.
Genesee Flatts, 101.

Land, Route from Albany to Ni*
agara, in 1790.— 283.

Laurel, 8.

Letters introductory, 21, 50, 160,
185, 190, 191, 207.

Lightning, the fatal effect of,
70.

Lime Tree, see Bass.

Limestone Rocks, 54, 111, 157,
164, 169.

Lakes, see Canadarqua, Cay-
uga, Champlain, Crooked
Erie, George, Huron, Kes-
wick, (G. B.) Michigans,
Mud, Oneida, Ontario, Onon-
daga, Ostisco, Owasco, St.
Clair, St. Francis, St. John,
St. Lewis, St. Pierre, Scanea-
teles, Seneca, Sameskwata,
Superior, Thousand Islands,
Windermere, (G. B.)

Loaf Sugar, of the Maple, 121.

Log House, a pattern of neat-
ness, 75.

Longevity, extraordinary, 117.
188.

Looming, singular effect of,
184.

Loons, 181.

Magnolia, (see Tulip Tree.)

Maiden Hair, 77.

Maize, 22, 34.

Mamoth Bull, an Indian Story,
174.

Mandrake Fruit, 98, 142.

Manhattan Company, 47.

Maple, 83, 124, 126, 128.

Maps and Papers, a present of,
79.

1>)DEX.

Vii.

Mariner's Compass not to be de-
pended upon in running divi-
sion lines, 119.

Market, Albany, 26. '■ *'*J'

" Matrimony a fine thing!" 199.

May Apple, 98, 142. . '

May Fly, 90.

Mercantile Dishonesty, 68.

Merry Mourners, 27.

Mess of the Artillery, 208.

Mess of the 4lst Regiment,
189, 235, 236.

Meteorological Register, b').

Midnight Ramble, 181.

Migration ofthe Pennsylvanians
60, 120,127. . " . '

Militia, inspection of, 21 .

Military Townships, 38, 39.

Milk Snake, 41.

Mills, 9, 20,23, 26, 54, 82, 101,
102, 181,210,215,223.

Moccasins, 236.

Mohawk Indians, S 129.

Morse's American Geography,
4,5,6, 7, 10,11,13,14,15,
18, 20, 28, 29, 31, 32, 33, 34,
35.

Mollis, 133.

Mosquitoes, 35, .56, 68, 83, 8(>,
95, 120, 131, 133.;— of a for-
midable race, 95.

Mushrooms, 221.

Musk Rats, 255.

Nags' Ears tipped with Silver !
117.

Night-clothes, novel, 74.

Night, how passed in the wil-
derness, 120, 121.

North -west Company, 239. '

New Ditto, 142, 339.

Nun, conversation with, 187.

Nunnery, visit to, 186.

Nuts of the White Hickory,

265.
Oak, 41, 47, 49, 62, 67, 69,

77, 114.
Oak Barrens, 31, 100.
Oaks, select a poor and gravelly

Soil, 31, 100, 103.
Oak Plains, 123, 126, 127, 128.
Oats, 78, 79, 92. , . i. ..

Oneida Indians, 37.
Onondaga Indians, 42, 51, 129.
Ontario County described, 91,

92.
Orchard, Indian, 52.

at the Falls of Niagara, 146.
Oswega Bass, or Susquehanna

Salmon, 67.
Owl, 80.
Ox, large, 98.

Oxen draught, used for temper-
ing clay, and treading out

wheat, 93.
Papouses, 51.

Parade of 6th Regiment, 207.
Partridges, 8, 9, 49.
Passengei-s, Fellow, in Sloop

Sally, 3, 4, 19, 21.

In Schooner Gen.Simcoe,

170, 175.
In ilateaux, 176, 191.
In Sloop Swiftsure, 243.
In Sloop Magdalene, 265.
Peltries, 175.
Perch, 67. '

viii.

I N D R X.

Perch, Yellow, 209.

Periloua Situations, 111,148,149,

209, 260, 263.
Persicaria, 93. . ,, ..<. >i
Petrifactions, 86, 98.
Pheasants, 8,77,86,96,116,262.
Picl<erel, or Poiiton dori, or
Oswega Bass, or Susquehanna
Salmon, 48, 67, 99, 156.
Pigeons wild, 77, 106, 116.
Pigeon-hawk, 116, 133.
Pike, 6, 262.
PineBarren, 22, 31.
Pitch, 22.
White, 58,69, 264.
Yellow, 69.
Pines Scrub, 31, 177, 242.
Plant, a singular one, 218.
Plantain, (see Antidote.)
Plover, 216.
Plums, (wild) 149.
Poems, 2 vols, a present, 249.
Pony, Scotch, 9 hands high, 68.

Canadian, 226, 227.
Poor Robin's Plantain, antidote
for bite of the Rattlesnake,
1.50.
Poplar, or Aspen, 41.
Poplar, (see Tulip Tree.)
Population, most rapid increase

of, 34.
Population in the Genesee, 92.
Porpoises, white, 219.
Potash, 107, 108, 270.
price of, 270.
Potatoes, 23.

Porter, price of in the United
States, 274.

Pownall's Map of the State of

New York, 248.
Presbyterian Congregation, 101.
Ditto Minister, 4, 13, 17, 268.
Prickly Pear, 8. ,^. ,. ,.
Priest, Roman, 226.
Provisions, price of, 26.
Cluails, 9, 49, 63.

unknown to the Indians
before the arrival of the
Europeans, 49, , ,.
Strangers to theGenesee,
49.
Queen's Rangers, 171. .,
Racoon, 156. .; , , ; ,
Raft, odd appearance of one,

184.
Rattlesnake, kill one, 64, 69.

cure for the bite of,
75, 76, 77.
Rattlesnakes, 42, 64, C9, 76,

112, 150. ... .

Rats, the Norway Brown, 9.
the English Black, 9.
Registers, Genesee, 90, 91, 92.
Rents, 26.
Riddles, 237, 238.
" Rights of Man" Newspaper,

274.
Roads, execrable, 37, 8Z, 84,

122.
Roads from Utica to Geneva,

33, 36.
Roasted Eggs, 200.
Robins, 31, 57.
Roman Church, 187, 235.

Priest, 225, 226.
Roses, wild, 24.

I N D K X.

ilU

Route from Albany to Niagara,
&c. 283, 299.

to Halifax, N. S. 300.
to Montreal, 301.

Uye, 72, 74.

Saddles and Bridles, 31.

Salmon, 156.

Salmontrout, 99.

Salt, how manufactured, 43,
44, 45.

Salt indispensible for the use of
Cattle, 105.

Saltlicks, dispersed through the
Western Country, 105.

Saltworks, 43, 44, 45.

Saltspring, private, 54, 78.

beneath the Genesee
Falls, 110.

Sarsaparilla, 8.

Scalps of Squirrels, Crows and
Hawks, 88571—82.

Scrub Oak and Pine, a degene-
racy caused by burning the
Soil, 59.

Schooners, 168.

Schooner, Governor Simcoe,
159, 170, 172, 174, 175.

Seminary, French, 186.

Seagull, 31,262.

Seine-net, rarity of in the Gene-
see, 67.

Seneca Indians, 124.

Settlement in the Back Woods,
how established, 71, 72, 117,
120.

Shad, 6.

Shaknpcare, 73.

Ship Euretta, 188.

Ship Montreal, 188. ' ■ '^ "''
Shooting the Rapidti, 264.
Showers, rate of moving, 80.
Sicily Wheat, 68.
Situation, a singular one! 110.
Six Nations, 129. '--'■■■-
Skeleton Leaves, 83.
Sketches of Scenery;—

of the Genesee Falls, 109,

111.
of the Falls of Niagara,

147, 156, 167.
of the Rapids of ditto, 158.
of the Falls of Montmo-

renci, 209.
of Views on the Hudson,
275, 276.
Skunk, 262.
Slaughter-houie well contrived,

21.
Sliding-keels, advantages of,90.
Sloop Magdalene, 265.
Sally, 3.
Seneca, 82, 90.
Swiftsure, 243, 244, 360.
Sloops, Expense of building and
navigating, 17.
nature and value of freij^ht,
108.
Snake, a frightful one, 173, 174.
Snakes, 41, 42, 69, 75, 120, 155,
173, 174.

tiie poisonous species only

uii . <i fbrfood, and why ,69

cast their skins, and in

what manner, 70.
their size in America, 174.
Snipes, 86, 116,214,254.

I N I) R X.

SniifT IVIaiiuracture, 20.

Soil, Vcf^retable, injured \>y firing

the Woods, 59.
Soil, fertility of, 32, 34, 40, 77,

91, 92.
Soil in Ontario County,6cnesee,

77,91,92.
Soldiers sell their patents of

Grants of Land, 38, 39.
Soldiers fearful of GItosU! 206,

207.
Soldier finds a Nondescript

Plant, 218.
Solomon's Seal, an antidote for

bite of the Uattlesuake,77,150
Spice Wood, 8.
Squaws, 51.

Squirrels, Black, 57,80,115,262
Grey, 81.

Ground, 31, 57, 115,262
Red, 31,57, 81,202.
American described 81
Squirrel Feasts, 81, 82.
Stage to Utica, 28.
State of N.York, 145,146
Strawberries, wild, 6, 24, 41.
Storm, a remarkable one, 125.
Storms, 70, 98, 125, 139, 140,

271.
Strange Fish, 66.
Striped Bass, 99.
Stiiben Coimty, Genesee, de-
scribed, 93.
Stu.-geons, 6, 25, 155.
Suckers, a fish, 67.
Sutrar Maple, 33, 37, 41, 45, 52,

57,77,93,100,101,118,121,

122.

Suj^ar Maple selects the richest

Soil, 100.
Sugar Orchards, 34.
Sugar of the Maple, its quality
and how manufactured, 121,

122.
Sulphur Springs, remarkable,

82,83,110, 155.
Sulphur found en masse, 83, 84,

85.
Sunfish, 6, 99.
Surveying Lands, error in,

119.
Surveyors, severe life of the, 120
Susquehanna Salmon, (see

Pickerel.)
Tamarisk, 86, 123.
Tassel Tree, 241.
Taxation, 25.

Teeth, find three large ones, 76.
Temerity of Capt. Lawton, 150.
Tennis Court, 236.
" The Fly," 96.
Thermometer at 94J'' in shade,

79.
Thrush, 77.
Thunder-gusts, kill or change

the wind, 16, 217.

curious eflect of, 50.
Tide in St. Lawrence, 197.
Timber of the Military Town-
ships, 41.

the Genesee, 77, 100.
on the Banks of Genesee
River, 114.
Timothy Grass, 41, 72, 92, 100.
none other cultivntcd in
the Genesee, 41.

I N I) K X.

T«»wii n»(l Townslii|iH liuvu llic

saini; siKuiflcalion, 117.
Tree blown down and rises

a<rain, 94.
Trout, 41, 262.
Travelliog, Republican, 257.

Priacely, 258,
Tulip Tree or Wbitewood, (see
Poplar,) 41.

singular destruction ot'unc
by lightning', G.
Turniira raised on Goat Island,

147.
Turnpike Roads, 33, 36.
Tuscorora Indians, 129.
Venison, 49, 74.
Veteran, 188.
View from Westpoint, 12.

Gen. Schuyler's, 22.
* the Banks of the Hud-

son, 7, 22.
on crossing Cayuga

Lake, 48, 49.
on Banks of Seneca

River, 49.
of Seneca Lake, 85,86.
on Banks of Canadar-

qua Lake, 99.
from the Banks of Buf-
faloe Creek, 129.
View of Lake Erie, 129, 130.
Niagara Rapids, 134, 133,

146.
Falls of Niagara, from
TableRock, 135— 141.
from Fort Schlusser side,

147.
fromhelow on Ciiniida sitlc
ir>2— I'HJ.

View from Bender's, 157.
by Moonlight, 157.
from the Summit of the

Table Land, 159.
by Moonlight, of Les CJa-

lots, a ilapid, 178.
by Moonlight, of Le Saut
du Coteau des Ci^dres,
181, 182.
from Summit of the Mont-
real, 189, 190.
of the Falls of Noutmo-

renci, 209, 210.
from the Upper Town ' f

duebec, 213.
on Lake Champlain, 254.
on the Hudson, 270.
Vines, Grape, 24, 262.

Strawberry, 24, 41.
War of 1813, 170,171.
Wasp's Nest, petrified, 98.
WateroftlieGreatLakes,whole-

snme and well tasted, 174.
Water of the Hudson, brackish
one hundred miles from New
York, 273.
Water, to be brought to Albany,
28.

that is brought to Ge-
neva, 89.
Water-melon, 115.
Water-carts drawn by Dogs,

213.
Water-pepper, 93.
Wax Plant, 208, 241.
AVeather, very warm, 79.
Weld's Travels, 14 1 , 153, 21 1 .
Wheat, price of, 26, 41, 102.
l>rofitalile trade in, 30, 102.

\ll.

1 N J) K X.

Wheut, linu cultivated, 40,73.
on the German Flats, 32.
at Whitestown, 84.
ill the Military Townships,

40.
the best kind, 68.
value of in the Genesee,

63, 103.
growth of in ditto, 68, 74,

77, 92, 102.
infected with the Hessian

Fly, 70.
Sicily, 68.
Whip.poor-Will, 37. '

Whirlwind, 126, 126.
White Pine, the loftiest of Trees,

69,82.
Whitewood Tree, celebrated, 6.
Whortleberries, (see Huckle-
berries,) 80, 131.
Wigwams, 101. '

Wild Buck, chased by Wolves,
74.

killed with scythes, 74.

Wild Kiii-k liojfgiitlily «>nlen,

73, 74.
Wild CheKnuts, 274.

Ducks, 84, 80, l(K».
Fowls, 86.
Pigeons, 106, 177.
Plums, 149.
\\ How, 86, 123.
Windmills, 15. ' ' •

Wine, price of, 26,
Wolves, 74, 77, 160,
Wood-chuck or Ground Hof^41
Wood-duck or Mandarin Duck,

236.
Woodpecker, large black, 86,
103.

large grey, 222.
red head, 67, 77.
Wood-pigeon, 200.
Woods, present a singular ap-
pearance in the Genesee, 93,
04.
Yellow Bass, a fish, 6,
Yellow Birds, 31, 109.

PLACES.

■ i >M

Albany, City of, 17, 18, 102,

185, 263, 264, 277.
Algiero, (see Lunenberg.)
Alleghany Ridge, 121.

River, 66.
Allen Creek, 115, 116, 118, 122.
the Western termination
of Williamson's pur-
chase, 118.
Amazons River, 230.
Antiscosti Island, 229.
Atocos Bay, 195.
Aurania, see Albany, 18.
Aurelius Township, 46.
Aurora Township, 46.
Baltimore on the Hudson, 16,
271.
Maryland, .55, 57, 62, 63,
236.
Barnegat, 13.
Hartles's Mills, 55.
Bath, near Albany, 23, 24, 263.
Bath, Stuben County, Genesee,

59,61,62,63,72,76, 121.
Batiscan Village, 197.

River, 197, 219.
Battery at New York, 213.
Beaconhill, Boston Mass, 213.
Bear Mountain, 7.
Beoancnurt, 196.

Becancourt Rifer, or Grande

Riviere Puante, 190.
Belcour Island, vide Valeur

Island.
Bason Harbour, Vermont, 260.
Berthier, 194, 196, 225.
Bequet, 197.
Bethlehem, 17.
Big Spring, 115.
Big Tree, 101.
Black Creek, 106.
Black River, 35.
Bloody Bridge, 145.
Bloomfield, 102.
Bloomfield Township, 92, 102,

104.
Blooming Vale, 42.
Boucheville, 191.
Bouquet River, 248.
Bout de rile, 184.
Bout de rile de Montreal, 192,

22S, 233.
Bradloe-bay, 109.
Breakneck-hill, II.
Buifaloe Creek, 128, 129, 170.
Buffaloe Village, 128, 130.

Great, 129.
Buttermar Creek, 42.
Butter Mountain, 11, 13,275.
Caclienonttga Village, 184.

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Xiv. INDKX.

Cadarqili, (see St. Lawrence

Cayuga Lake, 47.

River,) 183. ';-i''>.a • " » •"

Chambly River, 244, 266.

Caldwell's Manufactory, 26.

Champ de Mars, 188.

Caledonia, 116.

Champlain Lake, 243—256.

Canada, Upper, 180, 210,

Village, 197, 220.

241.

Charles River, 210.

Lower, 180, 231, 232.

Chesapeake-bay, 65, 58.

Canadarqua, 61, 75, 80, 82, 83,

Chicot River, 196.

86, 87, 04, 96, 07.

Chimney- point, 263. .>^> •<>*.

described , 96, 97, 98, 101 ,

Chippawa, 132, 133, 137, 139,

104, 107.

141, 142, 144, 161, 167, 160,

Canadarqua Lake, 66, 70, 73,

162, 167.

82,91,96. ^

Chippawa Creek, 151. '

described, 99, 100.

Chittenengo Creek, 38.

Canajoharee, 29, 160.

<^hurchof the Trois Sosurs, 216.

Canal at Little Falls of Mohawk,

Cochehatchie River, 177.

32.

Coeyemans Island, 270, 271.

Canal connecting^ Mohawk and

Kill, 271.

Wood Creek, 36.

Village, 270, 271.

Canaseraga Settlement, 38.

Cohoes Falls, 210, 261, 262.

Creek, 38, 68.

Cold Spring, 254.

Canawagos, (see New Hartford)

Conhucton Creek, 57, 59, 62,

102.

64, 67, 72.

Cape Diamond, 202, 204, 229.

Crab Island, 247. • -. i ■■

of Good Hope, 241.

Crooked Lake, 54, 65, 91, 119.

Rouge, 213.

Crown Point, 253.

Rouge Bay, 202, 215.

Cumberland Head, 246.

Village, 202.

Bay, 246. •

Santi, 201, 216.

Dansville, 68.

Cascade at Rensselaer's Mills,

Davis's StaUon, 120, 121, 122,

23. ■ ■■' ''■' ■■' ''"■■•••■

123.

at Wendell's Mills, 26.

Delaware River, 16. • .'<■-

in the Wilderness, 128.

Detroit, 142. > ./

Castleton on the Hudson, 268.

Devil's Hole, 164.

Castleton River, Vermont, 256.

Division line between the United

Catherine- town, 90.

States and Up. Canada, 130.

Cayuga, 46, 47, 64, 104.

between Upper and Lower

Bridge, 47, 48, 51.

Canada, 180.

I N D K X. ' XV.

Division lirie between Lower Ca-

Fort Ticonderoga, 253, 254.

nada and the United States,

WestNiagara,170,171,173.

246, i^ !

West Point, 10,11.

Drowned Lands, 254.

Fortress of Quebec, 204,212.

Dunderberg, or Thunder Noun-

Four Winds, or Four Brothers

tain, 8,11,276. >» n-.;

Islands, 247.

Eleven-mile Run, 128. '

Frederick Town, Genesee, 66.

Erie, (see Fort and liake,) 129,

French Town, Delaware, 241.

130, -Vi iSU ..n-.>Hi f.

Friends' Settlement, 54, 80.

Esopus Flats, 14. '«',;?

Ganges, 230,

Island, 14. ' ■'•

Genesee Country, 50. f

• Meadows, 273.

Falls, 106,109,110,111,

Esperanza, (seeLunenberg^.)

112, 113, 114, 153, 155,

Exeter, (O.B.) 239. '

204,210.
■ 'if Flats, 104, 105.

Face Mountain, 13, 276. ' ' ''^'

Fall Hill, 31.

- Landing, 106,107,108,109

Fidler's Elbow, 256.

Mills, 106, 112, 113, 114.

Fish-kill, 259.

River, 68, 102, 103, 104,

Five-mile Creek, 72. ' '

105, 106, 107, 108, 169.

Flat Rock, 247.

170.

Flint Creek, 75, 77, 82, 91.

Geneva, 50, 63, 70, 76, 77, 83,

Fort Anne, 30.

87, 88, 89, 90, 93, 96, 104.

Chippawa, 132, 142. '

described, 87.

Clinton, 7, 8, 275, 276.

George Town, Maryland, 50.

Constitution, 10.

German Flats, 32, 34.

Crown Point, 253.

Glens Falls, 259.

Edward, 259.

Goat Island, 134, 135, 137, 147,

Erie, 129, 130, 132, 162.

151, 161, 168.

Independence, 253.

Grand Sodus Road, 52.

Levi, 178.

Grande lie, (Niagara) 133, 144,

Montgomery, 7, 8, 11,276.

167.

Niagara, 159, 171, 172.

Grande lie, (Lake Champlain,)

Putnam, 10.

246, 247.

8chlusser,141,143,144,145,

Grande He PorUge, 142, 160,

146, 163, 164.

183.

Schuyler, (see Utica,) 232.

Grande He Riviere, 97, 129.

8tanwix, (see Rome) 35, 36.

Grand River, (seeUttawa River)

Stoney-point, 11.

Grant's Island, 242.

XVl. I N D B Xk

Great BuflaloeVillKgfl, 139.

He aux Bateaux, ISO. ;,.; ,''.]

Lakes, 165, 166.

He au Castor, 194. ;'.,„

Green Bush, (Seat of Henry

Island of Jesus, 184.

Cuyler, Esq.) 265.

Islands explored, 8, 17. ^ ,

OreenBush Fferry, overHtidspn,

He du Pas, 194. .1

24.

lies de Richelieu, 194.

Greta Bridge, (0. B.) 54.

Islands of the St. Lawrence, in*

Gulph of St. Lawrence, 55, 166,

numerable, 176, 177, 180.

229.

He Commune, 191. . ^. , ..;

Giilph of Mexico, 55..

He Therese, 191. , ■ i.>.i < - i
Katskill, 272. ■''' !

Half- Moon, Pointy (sea W«tta>

ford.) .> . ^

^ Mountaips, 14^263, 273

Halifax»(G.B.)23e.

Village, 272..

Hard Knot, (G. B.) 12.

KewGardens»(G.JB,).241. ,

Havre de Grace, Maryland, 58.

Kentucky, 81, 82. ,,;,,,-

Haverstraw Bay, 5, 6, 7, 273,

Kinderhook, 15.

276.

lianding, 271.

Heights of Abraham, 208, 204,

Kingston, (New York) 258.

208. .,.".:;. r.- \_:; ;;

(Up. Canada) 107, 143,

High.hill Island, see Overterg.

175, 176, 178, 183, 185.

Highlands, 7, IQ* 11,. 273, 275.

La Chine, 184.

Holland. Company 'a Lands, 118,

La Floride, 140.

119.

La Grande He, 167.

Hopetown, 54, 76, 119.

La Grande Riviere, 97, 129.

Horseshoe Fall, 152, 153, 154,

Lake above the Hudson, 6.

155, 156.

singular, near Bath, 66.

Horse Race, 7.

Cayuga, 47, 48, 49.

Hudson City, 15, 72.

Champlain, 224, 23.5, 243,

River, 4, 11, 19, 259,

256.

263, 265. , ,,

Cochehatchie, 177.

Hull, (G. B.) 188.

Erie, 129, 130, 137, 138,

Jacques Cartier River, 202, 216.

162, 163, 164, 166, 167,

Jesus Island, 184.

169, 230.

Jay's Valley, 273. :. ^^

George, 30, 224, 253,

Indian Castle, 31. ,,.

259.

Path, 116.

Huron, 166, 230. "

He aux Noix, 244, 256.

Michigan, 166,230.

Ile&laBarbue, 180.

Oneida, 36, 42.

IN DKX.

XVll.

Luke Ontario, 35, 137, 159, 162,
163, 164, 165, 167, 168,
169, 172, 173, 174, 175,
229, 231. .,,;„,„»

St. Clair, 166.

St. Francis, 180, 181, 195.

St. John, 229.

St. Louis, 183, 184.

St. Pierre, 192, 193, 194,
195, 197, 222, 223, 224.

Seneca, see Seneca Lake.

Superior, 166, 183, 230.

of the Thousand Islands,
177.

of theTwo AIountain8,183,
184.

Windermere, (G. B.) 12.

of the Woods, 165.
La Madeleine, 196.
Langdale Pikes, (G.B.) 12.
La Noraye, (see St. Joseph de,)

195.
LansingburgfCity, 24, 261, 263.
La Pointe Mai.' ;ae, jlOO.
La Prairie, 242.
La Velterie, 192, 226.
Le Coteau des Cadres, 181.
Le Cur6, 216.
L'£nfant Jesus, 191.
Le Groudine, 200, 217.
Les Deux Frdres, 180.
Limestone Creek, 42.
Little Fails of the Mohawk, 32.
Longueil, 191, 242.
Lotbiniere, 200.
Lunenberg, 15, 272. ^
Lyons, 82.
Manlius Township, 38.

Manor House, Governor Van

Rensselaer's, 20, 26.
Manor Houseof the Livingstons*

Marcellus Township, 45.
Marlborough, 274.
Masquinongez River, 195, 224.
Mexico, Gulph of, 55.
Middletown, (see Watkinstown)
Milepoint, 88.

Military Townships, 38. , , ,
Missouri River, 55.
Mississippi River, 65, 230.
Mohawk River, 35, 36, 55, 63,
261.
Great Falls, (see Cohoes,)

261, 202.
Little Falls, 32.
Monts Alleganys, 140.
Montmorenci, Falls of, 208,210.
Montreal, or Ville Marie, 55,143,
178, 183, 185, 195, 213, 228,
230, 238, 239, 240.
Montreal, the Island of, 184,
228, 239.

the Mountain of, 189, 190.
Morpeth, (G. B.) 53, 95.
Mount Pleasant, 6.
Mud Creek, 56, 57, 59, 67.

Lake, 64, 67.
Murderer's Kill, 274.
Navy Island, 143.
Newark, (see West Niagara.)
Newburgh, 11, 274.
Newcastle, (G. B.) 20.
New Hartford, 102.
Orleans, 55, 230.
Windsor, 11,274.
c

XViii. INDEX.

New York, 3, 65, 63, 77.

Ontario Lake, 35,91, 108, 116. '■

York Island, 277.

Orleans Island, 203, 329. '

Niagara, Falls of, 111,132,133,

Ostisco Lake, 46. • m

136, 136, 137, 138, 139, 146,

Ottawa, (see UtUwa River.)

Oua Machiche River, Great,

167, 168, 169, 204, 209, 261,

195.

262.

M. Little, 195.

Niagara, Fort, (see Fort Nia-

Overberg Island, 17, 269.

gara, Fort West Niagara,

Overslaugh, Lower, 18, 266,

West Niagara, and Nftvy

270, 277.

Hall.) ,«trit^X

Overslaugh, Upper, 18,266.

Niagara, River, 130, 132, 183,

Owasco Lake, 46.

134, 136, 136, 137, 188, 139,

Painted Post, 66. ' •

140, 141, 143, ISO, 151, 159,

Paris Township, 34.- ♦"'•■

161, 162, 165, 167, 168, 169,

PaUpsco River and Bay, 68.

170,231. j!^ ?^

Peeks-kill, 7, 276.

Nile, 168,230. ' ■■' '

Pennsylvania to Canadarqua, 76.

Nottingham, (O.B.)264.

Perrot Island, 183.

North Carolina, 81.

Philadelphia, 60, 66, 61.

North River, (see Hudson River)

Pointe au Baudet, division line

Northumberland, Pennsylvania,

betwixt Upper and Lower

61,08. •:-,4^iyt.i'il<^ri ,ii

Canada, 180. »•- ■ • ' -

Oak-hill, 273. «..-.«,r-.«

Pointe de Chambault, 200, 217.

Ohio River, 66. • •'«*?•-

8U Fer, 244, 246.

Oneida Castle, 36.

du Lac, 196, 221.

Creek, 36.

' Levi, 203. ' -

Indians, 37. '"i »*

' Machiche, 19&.

Woods, 122. ' ' '

Maligne, 180.

Lake, 36,42. "»• « '»^-

Platon, 201, 217.

Mills, 37.

aux Trembles, Montreal

Reservation, 34, 37, 85.

County, 191,228,233.

Woods, 37.

aux Trembles, 21 miles

Onondaga County, 85. • '■" "

from auebec, 202, 216.

Creek, 42. * '^ "

aux Trembles, Village

Hollow, 42. *'*" *'

and Church of, 216.

Lake, 46. "*'' '

Polleple or Porpoise Island, 276.

Reservation, 42, 4^.

Popelops Creek, 7.

Ontario County, 63, 72, 91, 92

Portages, 36, 150, 163, 180, 182.

■

93.

Potowmac, Little Falls of, 241.

I N O K X.

XIX.

Poughkeepsie, 14, 273.
I'resqu' lale, 178. ...>,.;^, . ..,
Putnam Rock, 2ft{>.
Quebec, 6ft, 203, 204, 205, 207,
208, 210, 211, 212, 213, 229.
Queenstown,l43, 144, 159, 160,

161, 102, 163, 167, 168.
Quints Bay, 175. . i\ff}

Rapids of Niagara, 134, 137,
146, 149, 152, 158.

of the St. Lawrence, 178,
179,180,181,182,219.
of Le Saut des Galots, 178.
«fLeSaut Plat, 179.
of Le Saut aux Citrons,

179.
of Le Long Saut, 179.
of Le Saut du Moulinet,

180. ,5i(H|i:iiu:'.,
«f Le Saut du Coteau du

Lac, 181.
of Le Saut du Coteau des
Cadres, 181, 182, 242.
of Le Saut do Buisson,

182.
of Les Cascades, 182.
of La Chine, 184.
of Le Saut de la Biche, or

Le Rochelieu, 200.
above Montreal, 241.
Rapide du Coteau St. Frangois,
(see Saut du Coteau du Lac.)
Redhook, 14, 273.
Repentigny, 192, 228.
Kio de la Plata, 2:)0.
Riviere St. Frangois, 224.
ail Chicot, 19,'i.
au Lnup, 195, 224.

Riviere de I'Assumption, 181.
des Prairies, 184.
Grande, Puante, 196. t*^
Petite, Puante, 196. .
St. Jean, 184.
Roohelieu, 197, 198, 200, 217.
Rocks, dangerous, 107, 198,217.
Rome, on the Mohawk, 35.
Romulus Township, 85. ».
Rundigut Creek, 91. . . i<

Bay, 107, 109. M
Saguenai River, 229. -;•> ,^ '
St. Anne, Canada, 197.

River, 197, 209.
New York, 257, 268.
St. Antoine de Tilly, 202.
St. Anthony's Nose, 7, 11,275,

276.
St. Augustin, 202, 215.
St. Charles, 222. ;./

St. Clair River, 230.
St, Croix Parish, 201.
St. Frangois, 191. . i!, -yiit*
St. John's Parish, 197, 217.

Village, Chamhly Ri-
ver, 243, 256.
St. Joseph de la Noraye, 192,

195, 222.
St. Lawrence River, 165, 177,

185, 191, 203, 213, 232.
St. Lawrence River is properly
the junction of the Cadaraqiii
with the Uttawa, 183.
St. Maurice River, 196.
St. Michael's Island, (vide Crab

Island.)
St. Sulpice, 192, 227.
Sfllmon Creek, 91. i ■

XXir

1 N D K X.

Salt Lafce, 43, .W. -<ii''i'.

Malt Sprinft, 42, 64.

Sandy.hill, 266.

Saratoga, 4, S60.

Sauts, (see Rapids.)

Saut du Tron, (see the Cascades

Rapid.) -nm
Scaneateles Lake, 46. <' '^■
Schenectady, 39.
Seneca Latce, 51, 63, 60, 84, 86,

87,89,90,91,03,119.
Seneca River, 46, 49, 64, 84.
Shrewsbury, (6. B.) 64.
Simcoe's Ladder, 162, 164, 166.
Skeneslraroufrh, 256. '^ '.»•'
Sodus Bay, «W, 119. I -<*♦- <
Sorel River, 195. »* ^J"^ »'

South Bay, 255, 266.

River, 256.
Spikin^-devil Creek, 277.
Split Rock, St. Lawrence River,

183.
Split Rock, Lake Champlain,

248,260.
Steadman's Landing, (see Fort

Schlusser.)
Steep Rocks, 6.
Stuben County, Genesee, 63,

93.
Stillwater, 260.
Stoney-point, 6, 8, 276.
Sugar- Loaf Mountain, 11.
Sugar-hill, 263.
Susquehanna River, 16, 66, 67,

63, 66, 93.
Sulphur Springs, 82, 99, 110.
Sweet Springs of Virginia, 121.
Table Land, 167, 169, 170.

Table Rock, 136, 1^, \*0, 147,

166, 166, 168, 169, 209.
Tadousao, 229. u.UiH

Tanawantee Creek, 120, 124.

Village, 124, 126,
126, 164.
Tapan Sea, or Bay, 4, 5, 6, 7,

276. ....=«...-

Tarrytown, 6, 276. !w.i ,;,,/»'.
Tellerspoint, 6, 276. ^'"^ ' " '
Thousand Islands, 177.
Thunuer-hill, (see Dunderberg)

11.
Ticonderoga, 263, 264.
Tioga River, 67.
Trois Rivieres, 196, 196, 197,

220,229.
Troy City, 24, 262, 263.
Turnpike Road from Utica to

Geneva, 33, 36.
Two Sisters Islands, 247.
United States, 172, 173, 178,

210, 246.
Upper Lakes, 143, 239.
Uttawa River or Grand River,

183, 228, 236.
Utica on Mohawk, 32, 80, 104.
Valeur Island, 247.
Varenne, 191.
Verdheres, 192.
Verdrielige-hook, 276.
Vermont Mountains, 190.

State, 250, 253, 255.
Verplank-point, 8, 276.
Villa, the Patron's, 26.
Vill«! Marie, (see Montreal.)
Virginia, 81.
Wakefield, (6. B.) 80.

IN DKX.

xxi.

Warren -bush, 20.
Washington Township, 85.
Watkiiistown or MiddletowD,

72,74,76,77. » , , . .
Waterford, 261.
Wendell's Mills, 26.
Western PosU, 172. -
West Indies, SO.
Westmorland Township, 64.
West Niagara, 102, 169, 170,
Point, 10, 27ft. Mi!!,M.r
Whirlpool of the Niagara, 161,

162, 163, 168.
Whitehall, (see Skenesbro'.)
Whitestown, 32, 33, 34.
Wilderness, The, 118.
Williamson's House at Bath,62.

Williamson's Farm and Houno

near Bath, 64, 66.

Farm and House at

Milepoint,Geneva,

rt. ,, ,t . Farm, 60.

Mills, near Bath, 6G.
western extentof his
•Settlement, 118.
Wolfe's Cove, 203.
Wood Creek, Oneida Lake, 35,

36.
Wood Creek, Lake Champlain,

267.
Wry Nose Mountain, (O.B.)12.
York, Upper Canada, 173.
York Harbour, 160. <

•: -..-.O "•«-..n . '" f.'T

*'i': >'?'•■'•.■? .<■( t'> ■•.f'V

•'V '.>Jt,■;^ ..; , ,vri( IW.su> -'>■> ,,.-, -r'

,<f-r •.it_ yyf

■ •■ -;•' '?;: ■^ r,i„Tr p.r, i-'ylfi

'.fir*- '■■ ».•,..■! ><.;■:!;•; t7

1 -t' <-;) (

t^ f. •■• ,. v., ,

V ''

.i«U -'

.XA (I / 1

1} U Hi," . 'liJti v.H .. < ',;( ,.j^. twi( «iw<ni, .«i.il

PERSONS.

Allen, Indian, (vide Indian Allen)
AUeaer, General, 3.
Ainlierst, General, 188.
Andr£, Major, 5, 10.
Armstronjf, Mr. 76. ,,.<, fj,.
Arnold. General, 10, 204, 305.
Ashtield, Mr. 235, 237, 341.
Atwater, Judge, 50, 97.
Baclie, Mr. 160, 186, 207.
Uuinliain, Mr. 248.

Miss, 248, 249.
Bartlea, Mr. 55, 56, 57, SO.
Bajrard, Captain, (41st.) 233,

235. ii

Beekinan, Mr. 50, 89. - ,

Belviderc, Monsieur, 276. ^
Bender, Canadian, 152, 154.
Betsy, the jfreat Traveller, 0.

Bird, Colonel, 7

Bishop of auebec, 208, 210.

Blacons, Mr. 140.

Bieeker family, 32.

Bogart, Mr. 89, 98. , ,

Boon and Lincklaen, 32.

Bowers, Mr. 23.

Boyd, Captain of Ship Montreal,

189,
Brandt, Colonel, Mohawk Chief,

31.

'»MI ,i'ti il'' i' ' '

Brazier, Miss, 369, 270. , .

Broom, Mr. 334.

Bruce, the Travsller, 158. , •

Bruce, Mrs. 366, 377, 278.

Bullock, Mr. of Liverpool, 9.
Lieut. (4l8t.) 233.

Burgoyne, Gen. 263, 268, 259.

Burton, Major, (Artillery) 208.

Butler, M^or, (6th.) 210.

Cady, Lieut. (Artillery) 235.

Calais, Mr. 60, 53.

Caldwell, Mr. James, 20, 26.

Cameron, Lieut.(41st.)233,235.

Campbell, General, 21, 23.

Lieut. (41st.) 233, 235.

J,;, ^ij , Patrick, theTraveller,
43, 45.

Canawagos, I ndian Princess, 120
years of age, 117.

Carpentier, Monsieur, 23.

Carr, Mr.50, 51,63.

Carver, Captain, the Traveller,
139,166.

Caton, Mr. 60.

Caul, Mr. of Saratoga, 3.

Charlevoix, Father, the Tra-
veller, 139, 168. , . ,

Charr^, Ma4lamp, 181.

Christie, Captain, (6th.) 210.

1 N D K X.

xxiii.

Clarke, Mr. 160, t03.

(JIaus, Captain and Mra. 170,

173.
Clay, Mr. 128. .i .j;..i...!
Clinton, Sir Henry, 7.
Cockrane, Mr. 23.
Coldrakex, 146—150. <
Colt, Mr. and Mrs. 70, 84, 80,

Coltraan, Mr. 203. ' ''*'"^''' '
Coulthurst, Lieut. (4lBt.) 234.
Crawford, Lieut. 142, 154,

155.
CrippB, Mr. Wm. 203, 207,208.
Cuthbert, James, Esq. 142, 185,

188, 190, 194, 207, 225.
Cuthbert, Miss, 185. '

Mr. and Mra. Ross,
> 'i 185, 188, 189, 233,
236, 237, 238, 239.
Cuyler, Henry, Esq. 265, 266.
William Howe, Esq.
- 64,60,63,66,68,69;
70,71,74,76,150,265.
Dana, Mr. 54, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68,

69,70. '^'^''■r

De ChambauU, Col. 190, 207.' "
DeLiancoui-t, Due, 17,124, 125,

140, 141, 109, 239.
De Peltcrie, Madame, 194, 224,

225;
Denison, Mir. 264.
Derenzy, Lieut. (4lst.)188,233.
Devonshire, The Duke of, 139.
Donnelly, Skipper, 3, 20.
Ducet, (or Iiucet) Mons. 7, 276.
Ellicott.'Andrew, Mr. 162.
Benjamin, Mr. 162.

■tfi.

Ellicott, Joseph, Mr. 102.
Ellison, Rev. Thos. 20,21,23,

60, 80, 264.
Ellison, Mr. 20. ;,',.•..,!
Fish, Colonel, 106, 100, 112, 113.
Fitspatrick, Mr. 34.
Fort, Moses, Esq. 34.
Ford, Mra. 275.
Frende, Capt. (4l8t.) 101, 200,

201, 203, 206, aor, 208, 210,

211, 214, 218, 220,222,223,

233, 235, 238.
Frobisher, Joseph, Esq. 185, 189,

233, 234, 237, 238, 239.
Ga:rden8tone, Lord, 242.
Gerrad, Mr. 185.
Ghoram, Mr. 50, 07, 09.
Granger, Mr. 106, 107.
Gray, Mr. 185, 188. " '

Greevetf, Mr. 107.
Gregr, Mi*. 95. ''' '

Guthrie, Major, (Artillery) 208.
Haldimand, General, 209.
Hale, ColoneT, 207, 208, 210.
Hall, Mr. 08.
Hall, Lieut. (4l8t.) 191,199,201,

203, 206, 211, 214, 215, 216,
218, 221, 223, 233.
Hallett, Mr. 50, 79, 84, 85, 89,

Hamilton, Colonel, 160,161,162.
Harper, Robt.Goodloe, Esq. 34.
Hay ward, Mr. 23.
Hearne, Mr. 235, 237, 240, 248,

249, 250, 256.
Hearne, Mra. 248. ■''''

Hennepin, Father, theTrnveller,

139, 166, 168.

XXiv. INDIX.

Henry, Mr. 180,235.

Lawton, Captain, 160. ^),^.t

Holt, Mr. UH.

Ledgard, Mr. 23.

Hotbread, Indian Chief, 117.

Lees, Hon. John, 180, 235.

Hotliam, Commodore, 8.

L'Estrange, Lieut. (6th.) 215.

Howard, Mr. 20.

Le Roy, llobert, Mr. 265.

Hudaon, Henry, 18.

Mrs. 265, 277,278.

Jay, Oovemorof New York, 29,

Jacob,jun.2(>5,271,272,

172.

274.

Jay, Mist, (davghUr of the

Louisa, 266, 271, «7a,

above,) 29. 'orj i.!'

Leicester, Mr. 237. *.;.,«» il,,;*

Jenkins, Menrs. S. and T. 10.

Lewis, Tavern -Keeper, 10.

Indian Alien, 103, 114.

Thomas, Groom, 71, 160.

Innii, Mr. 180. « .

Judge, 14.

John, (Seaman on board De Win-

Lister, Mr. 235. /f ., jf

ter's Ship, Oct.2lBt, 1707,) 3.

Listen, Mr. and Mrs. 186, 186,

John, CapUin, (4lBt.) 233.

208, 234.

Johnstone, Lieut. (41st.) 233.

Livingston, Mr. 14. «..;•. m

Sir John and Ladyi

v: ,.i( Chancellor, 273.

186.

i ! Edward, Esq. 234,

John, Esq. fiO, 61,64,

. » - 235,237,238,240,

61,78,79,80,80,08,

, • . 248, 249.

264. .-f •«-.y=

John, Esq. 273.

Jonas, Mr. 4.

Lucet, Mons. (vide Ducet.)

Junes, Mr. 236, 240, 244, 246,

Macbeth, Mr. 189.

248, 249.

Mc. Gill, Hun. Jas. 235, 237.

Isaacs, Mr. 21.

Mc. Giloray, Mr. 237,241.

Kalm, (the Traveller,) 28.

Mc. Kay, General, 271.

Kane, Archibald, Mr. 29,264.

Mrs. 170, 175.

f • Elias, Mr. 29, 41, 46, 60,

Mo. Kenzie, Mr. 98.

96.

Captain, (4l8.)187,

James, Mr. 30.

188,191,233,235,

Katlin, (Sailor-boy,) 260—253.

237, 238.

Kersey, Judg^, 71, 74, 76.

Alex. Esq. 165,166,

King, Mr. 106.

190, 239.

King William the Third, 130.

Mac Machin, Mr. 16, 271.

Kipp, Lieut. 4,10,12,19,21.

Macomb, Mr. 157.

Lahontan, Baron, (theTraveller)

Mc. Tavish, Mr. and Mrs. 185.

130, 161.

189, 235, 236.

iNnsz.

xxv.

Mair, Lieut. (41st.) 233.
MiMoii, Mr. the King'M Bo-

taniit, 163,241.
Mayor of Albany, (i«e I'liilip

Van Renwelaer.) ' * •^'
Maude, Francig, Mr. 80.
Metcair, Captain, 74.
Milnes, Robert 8liore, His Kx-

ceHency, 190, 207, 210.
Monroe, Mr. John, 101.
Montcalm, General, 212.
Montgfonnery, Gen. 204, 212.
Montour, Monsieur, 223.
Morgan, Mr. 21,2-3.
Morria, Robert, Esq. 05, 118,

119.
Morris, Thos. Esq. 80, 84, 83,

86,87, 95, 97, 08, 100, 101,

154, 157.
Morris, Mrs. 05, 100, 101.

Hon. Gouverneur, 234,
235,238,241.
Morrison, Farmer, 65.
Mousley, Mr. 4.
Moyes, Dr. 157.
Mullenders, .53.
Munro, Mr. 189.
Mure, John, Mr. 191, 207, 208.
Murray, Mr. 141.

Major, 235.
Nicholas, (free African) 3, 16.
Nicols, Mr. 17, 268.
O'Brian, dipt, and Mrs. 239.
Opden, — Esq. of New Jersey,

114.
Ogden, Judge, Mrs. and Miss,

186, 237.

...» v.

if.

OgiUy, Mr. 142, 160, 175, 176,
177, 181, 185, IBS, 189, 101,
207, 233, 234, 238, 249.

Oothout, General, 29, ' ''

Parker, Mr. 186. "^

Patron, The, (see P. 8. V*n
Rensselaer,) 22, 24.

Patterson, Mr. 66, 67

Paudit of Tanawantee, 124, 160.

Pelteric, Madame de, 104, 224,
225.

Phelps, Mr. 07, 106, 107. ^••"•»'

Pickering, Octavius, 4, 10, 21.
Timothy, Esq. 4.

Place, Mr. 207.

Piatt, Mr. and Mrs. 34. "'"'"

Post, Mr. 33. " ''

Potter, Judge, 76.

Pratt, Captain, 71.

Priestley, Dr. 83, 84.

Pulteney, Sir William, 64, 95.

Putnam, Mr. 4, 10, 19, 21. .
General, 255.

Ramsay, Mr. 20, 50, 264. "

Ray, Benjamin Mr. 162.

Rees, Mr. 50, 85, 89, 98.

Rcvardi, .H«jor, 171.

Robbins, Mr. 17.7.

Rush, Dr. 162, 185.
Miss, 185.

Samson, (Skipper) 170, 174.

Sanger, Mr. 4.

Jediah and Co. 44.

Saunders, Lieut. (4l8t.) 2.33.

Saxton, Frederick, Mr. 162.

Schonondac, the Oneida Chid',
(see Route.)

XXVI.

INDEX.

Schuyler, Genera], 22,

Scott, Mr. 60, 54.

Seigneur of Berthier, (see James

Cuthbert, Esq.) 142, 181.
Selby, Dr. 186,235.
Sbafer, Mr. 178.
Smith, Colonel, 13.
Stafer, Mr. 103, 104, 105, 115.
Steadman, Philip, Mr. 146.

John.Mr. 144,145,146.
Mr. 141, 150, 151.

Stewart, Mr. 37.

Still, Captain, 10.

Thomas, Colonel, (41st.) 235.

Thurman, Mr. 269, 270.

Todd, Mr. 189,236.

Tough, Mr. 142, 170, 184.

True, Lieut. (4l8t.) 233.

Van Rensselaer, Philip, Esq. 21,

22, 264, 265.
Van Rensselaer, Stephen, Esq.

Lieut. -Governor of the State

of New York, 20.
Volney, 86.

Walker, Colonel, 33.

Walsh, Mr. 84, 86, 264.

Washington, General, 12.

Watson, Mr. Brooke, 161.

Wayne, General, 10.

Weld, Mr. (the Traveller,) 141,
153, 213, 227, 239, 241, 275.

Wells, Mr. 237.

White, Hugh, Esq. 34.

Wilcox, Major, 12.

Wilkinson, (Farmer,) 65.
Jemima, 54.

Williams, Mr. 4, 10, 19, 21.

Williamson, Captain, 50, 61, 63,
64, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 71, 74,
76, 78, 79, 87, 98, 105, 114,
115, 116, 118, 119, 125,
128, 146, 154, 164, 166, 264,
265.

Williamson, Mrs. 121.

Alex. 64, 68, 69.
Ann, 64, 68, 69.

Wolfe, General, 188, 203, 212.

Yates, Mr. 84.

WAKEFIELD:

RICHARD NICHOLS, TYPOGRAPHER.

MDCCCXXVI.