) iSrfO CP'Ve t^^/')^' '■ //•7 r> c Ve) AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS KAILS Ol NIA<.ARA. 7 America AND THE x\MERICANS A NARRAIIVE OF A Tour ill tJic United States and Canada WITH CHAPTERS ON AMERICAN HOME LIFE BY ALEXANDER CRAIB, E.S.A. AUTIIOK >1K "ANCItNT AN!> MOUEKN RF.I.ICION," KTC, KTC. ALEXANDER GAR D N E R i)ublia1)rv to 'i»rr fttajrBtr U)r iDiurfn PAISLEY; and 26 PATERNOSTER SQUARE, LONDON 1892 V PREFACE The Author has been recommended by his Publisher to write, in a few words, a brief preface ; and no doubt wit li the desirable object of conforming to public opinion and to the usual custom in the world of literature. But if the writer may be understood, and pardoned for saying so, he humbly thinks it impossible for any author, in a few words — it certainly is so for him — to formulate such a preface as would give any fair, just, and ade- quate con'e[)tion of what this narrative of travel contains. Since, however, a brief preface is reccmmended, the writer avails himself of the opportunity to explain, in a word or two, how this volume came to be published. Some time ago the author was led to contribute to the Press a series of articles on America ; also, certain papers in separate form to several magazines and periodicals ; and the favour which these contri- butions obtained, on both sides of the Atlantic, first suggested the idea of this publication. But as in the matter of publishing and of what is likely to be of any value, an author is not always, perhaps not often, the safest guide, the writer therefore submitted his manuscript to a literary gentleman of the highest reputation, who on returning it very kindly assured the author that he had read it carefully and with very much interest, and conceived — in terms only too ap- preciative — that, as the narrative embraces a large proportion of PREFACE. the most interesting cities, localities, and institutions of Canada and the United States — that, as it introduces much new and fresh matter on questions of national importance, especially on topics relating to American home-life, it would supply to a con- siderable extent a felt want in books of travel, and would, in his opinion, meet with a wide measure of success. On receiving this, far too high, estimate of the narrative, the author placed it with the main portion of the matter in the hands of the publisher, who on reading the manuscript was also good enough to speak oi the general tone and tenor of the work very approvingly; and with his cordial consent and guid- ance, with certain suggestions and alterations, the author has prepared this volume, v.'hich, he ventures to hope, presents a fair and accurate picture of what came within his observation, of America and the Americans, when travelling in the United States. The author has only to convey an expression of warmest thanks to his friend, the Rev. J. B. Davidson, M.A., of Peter- head, who so efficiently assisted in reading the proofs as the work was passing through the press. January, 1892, CONTENTS CHAPTER I'AGE I. — The Voyage Out, 9 11. — The Gibraltar of America ; On the St. Lawrence to Montreal, - - - 19 III. — Montreal and Ottawa, the Seat of the Canadian Government. - - - 27 IV. — The Thousand I.sles ; Toronio ; Niagara Falls, 3" V. — Detroit to Chicago; Impressions of the American Board of Missions, - - 49 VI. — Chicago, Material Aspects, Moral Tone, Miscellaneous Recollections, - - 60 VII. — Chicago, its Streets, the Press, Schools, various Institutions, . - - 69 VIII. — Mr. Moody, the American Evangelist; His Church and Labours in Chicago, - 79 CCA TEATS. CHAiTF.u \\r,r. IX. — The Prairif.s; Springfield; Abraham Lin- coln ; The Mississippi, - - - - 85 X. — St. Louis, its various Sights and Incid- ents; The Journey to Cincinnati. - 95 XI. — Cincinnati, Characteristics, Scenes, and Social Life, 103 XIL — From Cincinnati to Pittsburg, across the Alleghanies, - - - - 115 XIII. — Washington City, its various Institu- tions AND Places of Interest, -, - 125 XIV. — Philadelphia, the Quaker City: Bethany Sunday School, - . - - - 137 XV. — From Philadelphia to Ne\vark, - - 151 XVL — Niav York, the Metropolis of America, - 158 XVII. — New York, its Programme, Government, and Institutions, 169 XVIIL — Brooklyn, "The City of Churches." - iSo XIX. — The late Rev. W. H. Beecher, the King of American Preachers, - - - 188 CONTENTS. CllAPTEk . PACK XX. — Dr. John Hall, New York; Dr. Talmagk, Brooklyn Tabernacle, - - - 197 XXI. — American Competition and our Agricul- turists, ------- 207 XXII. — From New York to Worcester, Mass., - 216 XXIII. — Boston, the City of the Piigrim Fathers, 230 XXIV. — The Vicinity of Boston, - - - - 244 XXV. — New England and Religious Liberty, - 257 XXVI. — New England, its Rural Life; Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe; Emerson, the Poet-Philosopher ; Manufactur- ing Interests, 266 XXVII. — American Hotels and Hotel Life, - 281 XXVIII. — The Churches of America, - - - 290 XXIX. — Home Life in America, - - - - 304 XXX. — America a vast Country ; Republicanism V. Monarchy ; Wit and Humour ; In- ternational Relations, - - - 317 America and the Americans CHAPTER I. THE VOYAGE OUT. T T was a bright, lovely morning in the early autumn, a morning of great beauty, like a morning in June, when I embarked on a vessel of the Allan Line at Glasgow, to sail by Liverpool, for a tour through Canada and the United States of America. In attempting here a narrative of my travels, I do not forget the fact inat a vast amount has been said and written on America, embracing every State, leaving nothing of a general interest in any part untouched. But while bea'-ing that in mind, and not assuming anything beyond the range of my personal observations travelling the country, I yet venture to put my impressions in a more extended and permanent form than I was able to do in a series of articles in some of our newspapers and periodicals on my return from the New World. America is a great country; no country is greater; and no country in the nineteenth century rises more impressivel) before the mind, in t'le development and progress of affairs So, from its greatness and position among other countries, as well as from its close relation to our own, we can hardly hear and read too much regarding it. " One of the strangest things," remarked a friend, conversing with me one evening on America, *' is the different opinions and impressions that strangers travelling in America give on the same things." But after all, this is not so lO AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. Strange, even when the opinions and impressions are not only different, but really contradictory ; for be it remembered, as we have said, America is a great and boundless country. Every writer has his own experience to narrate, but it is impossible for a writer, or for a thousand writers, adequately to represent every- thing. Then again, life in America is so full of progress, energy, and moving power ; business in all branches is so varied and so multiplied, and changes take place so rapidly that minds receive vary different impressions in the shortest sjace of time. In my travels through America, I endeavoured to study facts, and all I attempt or wish to do is to record my observations, and to record them faithfully, frankly, and, I trust, without feeling, prejudice, or exaggeration, ho[)ir.g that the record may prove of interest, and convey some useful information to those who have not visited the country themselves. But enough of prehminary remarks. On leaving Glasgow there were but few cabin passengers on board ; at Liverpool our vessel received her " cargo and complement." \\ hen we were but leaving Glasgow, a fellow-j^assenger, of the true Yankee type, " made up ' to me, and addressed me thus : " I guess you're for America." How he knew puzzled me, but in some way he "guessed" it, and though thus early in the voyage, he very frankly bade me "welcome" to his great country. He had been to the Continent, and having " done Europe," as he put it, was returning to the States, and had much to say on the superiority of America "to all the nations of the world." He was. as I have said, of the true Yankee tyi)e, — a frank, intelligent, well-informed, well-read traveller ; and he had all the more to say to me as the cabin passengers were but few, and as he found ! playfully bantered with him on the faults and failings ascribed by us in the Old Country to our American cousins. It may be here stated that as a nation our friendship with America is of the closest kind. We now know each other well ; we manifest a warm interest in each other's welfare ; we rejoice in each other's success. To say that the Old Country is apt to THE VOYAGE OUT. It look down upon the New, and adversely to cri'u- ise her move- ments is simply not true. The fact is we love each other as mother and daughter. The Americans have a warm regard, a strong feeling of affection for the (Jld World ; and we have a high and sincere njipreciation of all the splendid (lualities and successes of the New World. This is as it should be ; on many grounds much might be advanced in favour of friendly inter- course and kindly feeling between America and ourselws. An eminent, politician has said "The coming and g«»ing between the two countries has done untold good, in uniting Great Britain and America." And no doubt but it has ; this " coming and going " extends our knowledge of each other's affairs and gives insight into character, and otherwise shows the growth, the life and the controlling forces of the two nations. Travelling in America I everywhere received a kind welcome and much hospitality and attention. The Americans are a warm-hearted friendly j)eople. They are of a kindly disposition and "given to entertain strangers," I have much to say in their praise, and not one word to record that would in the leaTt degree detract from the high esteem in which they are deservedly held where they are known. The Alabama (juestion which so grieved many of them was happily settled long ago ; and we hope that the two nations so closely linked together in warm friendship and interests of the greatest value, both material and moral, may long recognise their affinity, and continue in harmony, peace, and good-will, their " only rivalry, the rivalry of love." When but a mere lad I was greatly drawn to books of bio- graphy, narrative, and travel. Among places which attracted me not a little interest was attached to America, but however Miuch we may know a country s aff.iirs from books, on visiting it we fmd, if I may so s|)eak, that we know next to nothing, " America is without question beyond any conception from books." California itself is big enough to hold not only the population of Great Britain and Ireland, but half as many more. 12 AMERICA AND THE AMERICAXS. The one state of Texas is larger than twice the size of our United Kingdom; No wonder that the Americans boast of their country as superior to all other countries of the world. Surely, taking the above facts into consideration, their boast is not a vain one. In this great country, then, I was deeply in- terested when a boy, and of this great country I read much; but a visit to America was af the time regarded by me as too ad- venturous to be entertained even for a moment. The spirit of pro[ihecy was not with me, nor could I beheve that the sun would ever rise on the day when I should attempt the heroic journey across, IJut in this world of ours wondciful things occur, and one day I found myself on board a noble vessel of the " Allan Line," whose colours gave signal that we were soon to sail for that great and wonderful country I had so longed to see. I must confess that on board tlie vessel, even before she sailed, many "shifting lights and shadows" crossed my thoughts. In books of imaginative writers I had read of dangerous voyages, of vessels in storm, burned, wrecked, ice-enclosed, and otherwise imperilled, so that the reader may guess how the pictorial was forced on one's feelings, particularly when the engine set itself to its task, and the noble vessel left the Mersey bound for the great Atlantic. But travellers are not influenced by the "shifting lights and shadows" of time; nor do they count on risk and danger cither by land or sea. On leaving Liverpool we were all in cxc client spirits. Friends who had come to see us off waved their handkerchiefs, as if to say " Ciod sj^eed the ship, all safety and happiness attend your passage." I recollect well that the uppermost thought in my mind was, " I am now on my way to the New World." Moving about on the deck of the ship, we soon became acquainted with our fellow passengers. " What a mighty voyage is before us ! " s.Tid some of the more tumorous ones — others spoke but lightly t)f the voyage and talked as if gut " costume," forsooth! Ours is a free country; the man of inventive imagina- tion may dress himself according to his own tastes; and whether he be laughed at, or spoken of as a curiosity, he may follow his own likings or carry out iiis own theories of "attire" even on board a vessel on the .\tlantic. The first day leaving Liverpool, being in good spirits, we all dined together. '1 he sea was calm and ([uiet : there was little motion. Everybody was well, and, judging from appear- ances, nobody was to be ill. The day was bright and clear ; and we noticed how wonderfully even the most timid plucked up courage and expressed themselves as to the voyage con- fidently. There was a brother minister on board. He had been for some years missionary in the "foreign field," but thinking that he would be more successful in his work and better of a 14 ..MERICA AND THE AMERICANS. " helpmeet," he took shipping, and one fine day came home for one who had reserved herself for him, glad to be his companion in labour in the far-off land. To this couple I was introduced. Towards evening, being Saturday night, the missionary asked me to go with him to the captain that we might arrange for the services on Sunday. The good captain had no objection to services, but looking up into the sky he said with a significant smile : " I daresay one service may be all that you will get com- fortably through." What did he mean? The reader will under- stand our intentions were good, but it turned out as the captain predicted, and both ministers were baffled to conduct even one service. The weather changed, towards night it became gloomy, the wind rose, and there were signs of a formidable sea. Before retiring for the night and getting into our berths, or shelf-beds, some of us went on deck and were interested in the sights and coloured signal-lights seen on the waters. But after the first night those signal-lights were all left behind, and I do not know that we passed more than one or two ships all the voyage from Liverpool to Canada. This is a striking fact. I mention it here as showing the vastness of the mighty waters. Throughout the night I was a good der.l tempted to wakefulness by the movements of the ship, rising, falling, rocking, reeling, and performing antics, not of the most enjoyable kind. On a fine night at sea, it is pleasant to slumber and sleep to the swing of the ship and the music of the ocean. But at six o'clock on Sunday morning I was wakened by the bell, and at once sprang from my berth and began dressing, when the ship gave a plunge, and it was with difficulty that I could keep my feet at all. The wind was blowing hard, there was a strong chopping sea, the waves were rising high in thick spray, dashing and beating against the ship. All at once she became too perpendicular for my head. I had not yet got my " sea-legs," and before I was half ready for breakfast at half-past eight, I felt quite uncomfortable, and to my regret was unpresentable all day. " This is an unhappy start," I remember saying to myself. THR VOYAGE OUT. 15 As I write I have still a vivid recollection of my first experi- ence at sea. Trips to Paris, Vienna, and other parts of the Continent have wrought refreshment in me, renewal of body and mind, "but these feelings," thought I, "are peculiar, and not to my taste." My fears were in case I should be the only one absent from breakfast ; but when I learned that the seats were empty, that only the captain and four passengers were able to appear, I was thankful, and indeed gratified ; and my friends here will do me the justice to say that in this at least I was wonderfully unselfish. The day wore on, nearly everybody was ill, and of course the Sunday service as arranged was not held. All day I kept my berth, as I could not very easily keep my feet. Nor did I care to be vis'ble on the morning of the following day, as the ship kept up her pranks, rocking, bumping, rattling about. The stewards were most kind and attentive. In the afternoon a gentleman nautically clad in blue came to see me, and asked with a laugh. "^Vhat about the preaching yesterday?" It was good Captain Scott. After several incjuiries, he said, " You must get up and come on deck as soon as you can, otherwise you may lie here all the voyage." Somewhat afraid, but following his advice, I made the attempt. In less than half-an-hour I was upstairs, and soon better ; after this I enjoyed the voyage amazingly, though it was rougher and longer than usual, owing to the dreary, miserable foggy weather, which we encountered as we neared the other side. Among the •' sea-sick," were the missionary and his young wife, who were excessively ill, almost unable to speak the one to the other. For eight days they did not appear. " Poor creature ! " said the captain, speaking of the young wife, " she is very bad, and she says," he added with a hearty laugh, "'If I had known this I wouldn't have come.' " But all recovered, and as these voyage experiences arc not of the most pleasant kind, we siiall not detain the reader further in relating them. The weather continued through the voyage somewhat broken and the sea l6 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. rough. In fact, if the passengers had been asked their opinion, they would have voted this "a stormy passage." The second Sunday we hjd iwo se'-vices, both well attended, reverently conducted, ana delightfully enjoyable. Each service lasted an hour, and the whole of the exercises had a subduing and solemnising influence. The sermons lasted twenty minutes, the morning sermon was on the love of God in Christ, the afternoon or evening sermon dealt with the grounds of our Christian hope. It was pleasant to see the interest of the pas- sengers in the services — pleasant to hear the bell ringing as on land, assembling brethren together to join in prayer and praise. Before reaching the Gulf of St. Lawrence the shi|) lay three days in a dense fog. We were in the regions of ice ; it was dreadfully and piercingly cold. There was danger of moving for fear that we might come into collision with some ~:her vessel, or encounter some large ice-berg, twenty-four ol which were counted within sight of the naked eye as the fog cleared away. Some of us tried to sketch the great ice-mountains, but the out- lines changed so much, and the cold was so intense, that we could produce no satisfactory result. One of the most remarkable thinLjs on board these large steamers is the freshness of " table- supply," and other necessaries for a long voyage. Our passage was rather a long one, owing to a heavy sea, head winds, and the dense fog that we met with before we entered the St. Lawrence ; yet everything on table was as fresh and as good when we landed in Canada as when we left Liverpool. It may be asked " How do the passengers amuse themselves on a long voyage?" In various ways. \Vhen the sky is clear and the sea fairly calm, the deck of the ship is a scene of life and stir all day long. Games, conversations, debates, socialities and amuse- ments are engaged in ; songs, music, and concerts are arranged for to be given in the evenings. Some read books, others write letters, some again play cards and otherwise enjoy themselves as at home, when friends are together on a social evening. So that unless a passenger be in himself dull and uninteresting, or un- THE VOYAGE OUT. 17 well, he will not weary, nor will time hang on his hands. It is wonderful how quickly the time passes on a voyage at sea. One never-failing source of amusement, weather permitting, is watch- ing the course of the shij) and looking on the whales and porpoises playing near ; and the hour-bell telling the passing time, the songs and movements of the sailors, the whistle calling them to duty — these things break the monotony of the voyage and have all an interest at sea. The night we reached the Gulf of St. Lawrence was beauti- fully clear and brilliant, the stars were lustrous, we were going at full speed. It was pleasant to see the gallant ship, how proudly she ploughed through the Straits of Belle Isle, the water flashing behind with phosphorescent light. We retired for the night ; early next morning we were told we were in America. This message made some of us jump, dress, and hurry on deck ; but as yet no land could be seen. We saw, however, a glorious sunrise, and were thus amply rewarded for appearing so early. It was next day ere we sighted land. Tiie reader may imagine our feelings when we first saw it in the distance. Sailing up the River St. Lawrence, we noticed, thus early in autumn, several inches of snow on the tops of the lower Canadian hills, but the air was balmy and delicious. We ])assed several sea-going steamers, and on the coast, here and there, were small villages with straggling white wooden houses, and forests beyond. It was at five o'clock in the morning when we arrived at the old but interesting city of Quebec; two guns were fired, the ship was landed, and thus ended our somewhat tedious, though enjoy- able voyage. The great Atlantic had been safely crossed. There had been no quarrelling among either passengers or sailors ; all were happy as one family ; everything tended to prouiote friend- ship and peace. Standing on the shore at Point Levi, after *' attending to the receii)t of custom," we shook hands, took leave of one another, sorry to break up the hapj)y associations that had been formed. '• We part," said one, " never all to meet again, till the great voyage of life be over." True ; but, l8 AMERICA A.VD THE AMERICANS. under the guidance of the Great Captain, we hope to meet then, on that shore, as it is said, "where the sun never goes down, and where the crossing of life's waters is left behind and remem- bered no more for ever." CHAPTER II. THE GIBRALTAR OF AMERICA ; ON THE ST. LAWRENCE TO MONTREAL. 'T^HE morning of our arrival in Quebec was bright and airy, but for September, rather cold. My first impressions of the old city from Point Levi were unfavourable. It was observed by a passenger that the town was " not very lively " ; by another, "as dull as you can desire to see." But these observations were made by travellers who had not yet honoured Quebec by paying it a visit, and at an hour in the early morning when the busiest city looks as if the entire population were imprisoned, or had gone on a holiday trip. We must remain for a time in Quebec and see it during the day to receive correct impressions. To European travellers Quebec is a city of great interest. Until recently it was the capital of united Canada. It is an old fortified town, with a grandeur all its own, and is rightly called the Gibraltar of America. It is situated on a steep promontory on the north side of the St. Lawrence, and is divided into two parts, the Upper Town and the Lower. It was founded by Champlain in 1608 on the site of an Indian village called Stadacona. It continued to be the centre of French trade and commerce till it fell into the hands of Britain by the memorable victory of Wolfe in 1759. Well- informed readers will recall the gallant incidents of its history, and especially its brave struggles in connection with the name of Wolfe. We were taken to the spot where the noble hero bled and died just wnen he had gained the victory. His last words were these, " God be praised, I die in peace." And it may be worth noting that before he engaged in his last battle he was heard to 20 AMERICA AND THE AMERfCAXS. repeat (iray's " Elegy," and to murmur the appropriate saying, "The path of glory leads but to the grave." A suitable pillar marks the spot where the hero fell. I was told when in Quebec that "the General who led the French against Wolfe, full in tlie last battle and died before the light of the following day." The people of Quebec are proud of their old city, and proud to re- late the incidents of its history. The Upper Town claims to have some buildings of architectural beauty ; but the Lower Town, which lies on a long, narrow strip of Idnd, has neither beauty, plan, nor arrangement ol any kind. Its streets are irregular, narrow, and ill-paved; and the idea of walking in some of them in wet weather is not to us attractive. Quebec has a population of over 77,000, and is a city of docks, wharves, and extensive shipping. In its religious faith it is intensely Roman Catholic. The cathedral is by far the most conspicuous building in the Upper town. It is handsomely fitted up, and seats over 4,000 people. The walls are hung with fine paintings of saints, martyrs, priests, and beautiful drawings of apocalyptic vision. But although Quebec be intensely Roman Catholic, other denominations are fairly represented in it. There are Presbyterians, Indejjendents, Bai)tists, and Methodists. At the time of my visit there were manifest signs in the old city of a quickened religious life. Hundreds and hundreds were night after night having the Gospel preached to them by ministers and evangelists in the different Protestant churches ; and notwithstanding the great power of the priests over the Catholics, some of them were attending the meetings, and several cases of " new converts " to the " true faith " '^vere recorded. I took part in some of these religious services. At a large " Open Testimony Meeting " one night, I heard one or two who had been Roman Catholics say that they had come under the power of Divine truth, and were now free men in Christ Jesus. It does not, however, befit my plan here to discuss Roman Catholicism, nor is it in my mind to detain the reader with THE GIBRALTAR OF AMERICA. 21 remarks on the subject. But this we may state, that of late the Romish Church in Canada has been putting forth renewed energy, and Roman Catholicism, in certain districts, is growing with such rapidity that it seems almost to take the breath from some of the foremost American Protestant leaders. Yet in Canada the Gospel is making progress ; and that a mani- festation of the power of the Spirit should appear in Quebec, and such a manifestation too as old men testify they have never before witnessed, is significant, hopeful, and encouraging. We are not of those who believe in " hasty verdicts," or who claim to have the gift of prophecy, yet we have no hesitation in saying that these religious movements point in the right direc- tion. But, as an able and somewhat famous guardian of tlie truth predicts, " a mighty conflict yet remains to be fought in (Canada." Be it so. Darkness ere long must yield to light. Magna est Veritas et prevalcbit. But returning from this momentary transgression of our plan, the fjreat obiect of attraction, and of ever memorable interest in Quebec is the Citadel, the most formidable fortress in America. Standing on the " Heights " the view is magnificently grand. The area embraced is more than forty acres, and the line of fortifications nearly three miles in length. We had the good fortune to meet a friend in the city, and to be accompanied by him to the summit. He knew the battlements and their surroundings. On our way up he remarked, " When we get to the top you will see a sight unique, and surpassing in beauty." We were not disappointed. The Citadel, suspended as in the air, affords a most splendid and extensive panoramic view of attractive loveliness, enough to recompense a traveller for his journey across the Atlantic, The fine expanse of country, its varied and beautiful scenery, its breaks and vistas, the smiling sky, the mountains, the hills and vales, the forests, the streams and rivers amid which are seen the much frequented P\ills of Montmorenci, higher than Niagara, but narrow, the miles of Canadian hamlets stretching out in rows as streaks 22 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. along the landscape, the beautiful St. Lawrence sparkling and glancing in the sunlight, the noble steamers and trading vessels, the innumerable rafts of timber, the tiny ships, and the busy mart of commerce, " right down hundreds of feet below," with its vehicles, cabs, casks, goods, barrels, baskets, and busy workers — all this is viewed from the "Heights"; and the scene is one of the grandest and most enchanting that die eye can rest upon. At this moment it is vividly before our mind, but, as another has observed, "to express its glory is the difificulty." To say that no view is finer in America might be an exaggera- tion, but it is certainly very fine, and never to be forgotten. A story is told of a painter, who, exhibiting his picture, found it necessary to say, "^Vords fail to describe its beauty," so when speaking of the scene presented to the eye on the Citadel, and trying to exhibit its beauty, one feels some such exegesis called for. No traveller to Quebec with an opportunity should miss going to the Citadel and seeing the sight for himself. While in (Quebec, the quay of the St. Lawrence, we made several friends, and shall always entertain pleasant recollec- tions of their name and of the place. Montreal was our next station. There are two routes ; one by the Grand Trunk Railway, the other by the "river line of steamers." I preferred the "river-line," the more popular and to me the more agreeable route. Two splendid river steamers make the trip daily during the season of navigation. At four p.rn. we went on board the Montreal^ a magnificent vessel, in every way a model of elegance, neatness, and comfort. A few minutes after the time advertised the steamer started; and sailing up the St. Lawrence we were interested in viewing the pleasant villas, the scattered villages and hamlets, and other Canadian curiosities to be seen from the boat. The villages and liamlets are favourable specimens of Canadian dwellings, and are decidedly of French style and character. The French were the first to settle in Lower Canada ; most of them belong to the Roman Catholic faith. The better-class houses are painted ON THE ST. LAWRENCE TO MONTREAL. 23 white, with red roofs ; and on a fine evening in the setting sun they present a somewhat briUiant lustre. Here and there appear the tin-covered spires of the Roman CathoHc churches, an arrangement in architecture altogether peculiar to Canada. On the river we passed several rafts of timber, some of which were very large. The sight is highly interesting. On the rafts is built a shed for the raftsmen, and borne along by the breeze, the hardy sons of toil may be heard heartily joining in the well-known " Canadian Boat Song " — Row, brothers, row, the stream runs fast, The rapids are near and the daylight's past. In a quiet evening on the water the effect is delightful. " But come," said a friend, jokingly, "and I will show you a beautiful sunrise." "A sunrise at twilight 1" What could he mean? Ah, well ! the fine Montreal steamer had on board a large number of passengers, almost every variety and accessory of Canadian fashion. But need we conceal it? The "beautiful sunrise " which our friend took us to see was a " fair couple," newly united in the bonds of love, whose eyes were filled with admiration of one another, and who were enjoying in each other a " world of bliss," such as, Kingsley says, "cannot bo expressed by pencil and colouring." With them life was in the first bloom of its romance and beauty, just what we hope it may continue to be, free of self, full of kindness, love, and something higher, the one to the other. But hush ! Another friend suggests it is moonshine — " honeymoonshine." But we must leave this young couple to "the joy of their love"; we wish for them all blessing, prosperity, and happiness. I was very pleased to make the ac(]uaintnnce of a merchant on the river St. Lawrence — an intelligent man. He gave me much information as to Canada, and I was the more pleased to make his acquaintance because he spoke with a wide knowledge, and a long experience of the people and country. I made inquiries as to the condition of the smaller farmers, irom wh.it 24 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. he remarked, I found this class in Lower Canada to be very poor. But by my friend's description their future prospects were bri^^hter and more encouraging than we sometimes hear. "The land, " he said, " has never been properly cultivated. Most of the small farmers, indeed all of theai, were poor to begin with, and they have never been able to do the land or themselves justice. But," my friend added, "I look beyond all this, and believe that the farmers of Lower Canada will ere long rise, if not to fight against their burdens, yet to throw them off, and to be a pros- perous people." Canada, we are accustomed to speak of as a new country, though Mr. Bryce, Professor in Manitoba College, Winnipeg, in his recent book on Canada, says that there is a tradition as to the first settlement of the country as far back as 638 i5.c. This fact is stated in the chronological table of his book and given as "the date of the birth of Solon." But the tradition is altogether too vague to be of much value in the annals of Canadian history. As to the relations of French and English settlers in Canada we may quote an incident from Mr. Bryce's book which may be recalled and regarded as interesting. "This incident took place on the 27th of June, 1792, as the election for Charlesbourg, near Quebec, was closing. Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent, and father of Queen Victoria, was in Canada at this time, and was present at this gathering of the electors. High feeling prevailed, and a riot seemed inevitable. 'I'he prince, seeing the danger, rushed to a prominent place, and called for silence. " He then in pure French called out, 'Can there be any man among you that does not take the king to be the father of his people?' A shout of ' God save the king ' greeted the question. * Is there any among you,' then asked his Highness, 'that does not look on the new Constitution as the best possible one both for the subject and tiie Government ?' Loyal shouts were again repeated. ' Part then in peace. I urge you to unanivirty and concord. Let me,' continued the speaker, ' hear no Uiire of ON THE ST. LAWRENCE TO MONTREAL. 25 the odious distinction English and French. Vou are all his Britannic Majesty's Canadian subjects.' The effect of this speech was magical. Harmony was at once restored. Happy for Canada had the princely advice been always followed." The Canadians as a people, are jealous of their position and rights. Of recent years a good deal has been said on the ques- tion of the United States annexing Canada. Dr. Cloldwin Smith and otiiers argue that " annexation is legitimate and natuial." Canada is an immense territory, larger than the United States, but its entire population is not more than the population of Scotland, less than four and a half millions, while the United States have a population now over fifty-two and a half millions ; so that if the ''annexation " of the two countries come to be a I)ractical ijuestion, " the legitimate and natural "" thing would be as Dr. Smith argues. But will that satisfy the Canadians? No. They would no doubt welcome annexation if it came in their way. .\nd their way is somewhat like the way of the old Cameronian woman. This woman was greatly exercised in licr mind as to what was to be the future of her church, at, or as likely before the time when the Cameronians united with the Free Church. "So you're to jine wi the Free Kirk, are you?" asked a neighbour. " Na, na," said the old woman, •' they can jine fa likes, but we're nae to dae that, I houp, for we were a church lang afore the Free was born, and if there's tae be any jinin' it maun be the Free Kirk to jine wi' us." Bravo! my old woman. This may amuse Dr. Rainy but not more amusing is the old woman's idea of the Free Church, a large body joining the small Cameronian body, than of the four and a half millions in Canada annexing the fifty-two and a half millions in the United States. Mr. Bryce has something to say on this great question : — " Canada has now as large a population as had the United States when they fought for and gained their independence, and should Canada," he says, "declare for independence, she m 'st be prepared to take her place among the nations, must immedi- a 26 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. ately face the building and equipment of a navy to protect her coast-line and fisheries, must establish a standing army, at least as large as that of the United States, must follow her very con- siderable commerce to every part of the world with a consular and diplomatic service, must enormously increase her foreign department of government, and, severed from British connection, pilot her own way through the treacherous shoals and dangerous whirlpools of international complication." " With international relations with the United States so varied and complicated, independence would probably be but the pre- lude to annexation, a contingency which the interest, sentiment, and patriotic attitude of the great mass of Canadians forbids even to be discussed. While all Canadians of any character or standing oppose the suggestion made, probably the French Canadians are the most determined in opposition to indepen- dence and its probable result." But what is to become of the great outlying territories of Canada ? " Oh," says the Canadian, " we are making a great Pacific Railway which, we believe, will create a large population, and have great results on the trade and commerce of Canada." No doubt but the results will be very beneficial to Canada, and do good to other countries. As to railways creating a pojiula- tion, we in the Old Country speak rather of the population creating the railways. But for us in the distance to profess to be an authority, or even to give our opinion on these great problems, is surely vain and foolish in the extreme, so we return to our expedition and v)ur personal observations. The twilight now deepens, and night draws on. We repair to the state-room, and partake of a " royal supper " — everything was abundant and of the best (juality, and the cooking^perfection. After supper — or perhaps, to some, more correctly dinner — there were some games, some music, no little merriment and laughter. At a reasonable hour we retired to rest, enjoyed a refreshing sleep, and at six o'clock in the morning we were in Montreal, i8o miles from Quebec. CHAPTER III. MONTREAL AND OTTAWA, THE SEAT OF THF CANADIAN GOVERNMENT. r~\^ reaching Montreal, after bidding good bye to a few recently ^-^ made acquaintances, the choice of a hotel was of first and paramount importance. In this, however, we had no difficulty. A kind friend directed us to a most comfortable house in the centre of the town where everything was in excellent order and beautifully clean. After breakfast we sallied forth into the streets to have a look at the city. The morning was bright, the sky clear and unclouded. The sun shone out with a strength and warmth as if it had been midsummer instead of autumn. The houses and villas had a "neat and fresh" a])pearance, and the large residences looked comfortable and spacious. Toward the east end of Montreal the inhabitants are of a poorer class, most of French origin as the names over the doors of their shops indicate. As we moved about here and there seeing the towns, I was very much struck with an aspect of new- ness and freshness in every object that met my eye. I felt indeed in a new country and among a new people. Montreal is a large flourishing city, the commercial of the capital of Canada, and of enchanting interest to all Canadians. Its situation is delightful ; it stands on the margin of the St. Lawrence, at the base of a beautiful eminence known as "Mount Royal," from which it derived its name when it fell into the hands of the British in 1760. In the upper and better part of the town, the streets and avenues are planted as ir Paris, with rows of slirubs and beautiful trees, whose branches in summer shade from the sun, and whose appearance when in full leaf must be 28 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. exceedingly picturesque, conveying to the mind the idea of a kind of compromise between town and country life which is very pleasant. The population of jSIontreal is about 150.000. The city extends along the shore of the St. Lawrence for nearly three miles, while in breadth it goes back towards Mount Royal fully a mile and a half in average, but in some i)laces more than that On the top of Mount Royal a fine view is obtained, including the blue hills of Vermont in the distance and the boiling rapids of Lachine, also an extensive range of varied Canadian scenery and the broad rolling waters of the noble St. Lawrence, and close below the mansions and villas, the churches and institutions of the city. In recalling the view from Mount Royal the memory is filled with delight. Thanks to the clear sky and the brightness of the day ! There was a "golden sun " and joy and beauty in all things around. Montreal is a city of wonderful activity, and movement in all departments of commerce, and industry. With respect to many things, no city in Canada approaches to Montreal ; and only a few cities in the Unites States can excel the commercial capital. The "stores" and warehouses are of great magnitude, beauty, and taste. Of late there has been a great outcry in England against American competition ; and it is (juite a fact that the Americans can now manufacture and supply articles in nearly all the different departments of trade, if not better, at least lighter and cheaper than manufacturers in the Old Country. Of recent years the Americans have gone largely into the manufacturing of hardware goods, tools and implements of all kinds. Talking in the " store " of a gentleman of an extensive business in Montreal in the "hardware line," he said, speaking of his warehouse, "It is all, or nearly all, supplied from makers in our own country ; " and he was somewhat indignant with these English critics who constantly claim all " advantage and glory " to the " European name." Among the ecclesiastical buildings of Montreal, the Roman MONTREAL. 29 Catholic Cathedral of Notre Dame stands out conspicuously, and is an immense structure. It is built in the Gothic style of the thirteenth century, is richly decorated, and accommodates 10,000 people. At the front of the building there are two massive towers which rise to the height of 220 feet each. In one of these towers is a peal of bells. In the other 's the monster bell which, from its bass sound goes by the name of " Gros Bourdon^ It weighs nearly 30,0001b., and is used as the fire alarm of the city. On one side of the bell is engraven the Latin inscrijnion : — "Negotiamini dum venio. Omnis spiritus laudet Dominum. Fundataj anno Marianopolis 206. Victoria: Reginoe Britannia- rum, X\'III." (Occupy till I come. Let every soul praise the Lord. Founded in the year of the city of Mary, 206 — Of Victoria, the Queen of Britain, 18.) On the other side is engraven another Latin inscription ; but we did not take it down, and do not remember it further than that it indicated the presentation of the bell to the cathedral by the merchants and tradesmen of the city. In regard to the •\bove inscription that which strikes us most is its good teaching. If *he inhabitants of .Montreal and visitors to this Cathedral be willing to receive instruction the inscription will not have been engraven in vain, for every time the " Gros Bourdou " rings there may be heard in its far sounding tolls a call to iiraise the Lord. The Roman Catholics are very numerous in Montreal — three to one of the population ; and throughout Lower Canada, five to one, if not more. In the more (piiet streets of the city priests are seen in large num'jers moving about : and the priesthood, by virtue of its authority, backed by organised force, has immense power over the people. The Roman Catholics have beside their large cathedral, several other places of worship, and several fine convent schools, ho'>i»itals, and large nunneries, the 'argcst nunneries, indeed, known in the world. These convent jchools, hospitals, and nunneries as instituticms are significant of great wealth, which has increased enormously of recent years JO AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. owing to the rise of property, a large amount of which has been in the hands of the Roman Catholics since the early settlements of the Frencli. Some of the convent schools give a very superior education and in consequence attract the children of Protestant parents. "There is an evil here," remarked a friend, "and a sore evil too, for what is the fact? In these schools the priests exercise all authority, and eagerly embrace every opportunity of teaching the doctrines and faith of their own Church to the children in attendance." This is quite natural, nor can we reasonably find fault. The pity is ihat parents send their children to these schools. " I regret," said a father in speaking of his daughter, who had become a Roman Catholic, " that I sent her when a child to the convent school." This was unfortunate, but the end was exactly what the priests desired, and what the father might have expected. In Montreal there are the two classes of Catholics, the French and the Irish. As a rule, they keep apart from each other, and do not, as is often observed, " pull well together." Seeing Roman Catholicism from the outside, we only know the external condition of things. The internal working of that system is extremely difficult to get at. If we knew all about the Catholics we would find wider differences among them, and greater divisions than they hold up and deride among Protestants. But the signs of the age are hopeful. There is a restless feeling behind the darkness, and a panting desire for light. Recently an eminent father and orator of the Catholic Church in Canada renounced Catholicism. On him it is said the true light has dawned. He has come to the front, and is earnestly labouring in Montreal in a mission to the Catholics with marked success. In St. Catharine-street the Church of England has a hand- some cathedral, a perfect specimen of Gothic architecture. This church invites attention and is well worthy of a visit. In its neighbourhood there are beautiful avenues, villas, and numerous churches with fine spires, all tending to distinguish the ecclesiastical architecture of the city. I visited several of the MONTREAL. 31 churches. They are ex'ceedingly handsome, very commodious, and in every way comfortable. Most of them have large halls, parlours, and lecture-rooms attached to them, the general plan being to have the halls and rooms in the ba'cment storey. The Christian people of Montreal take a lively interest in Christian work, in Sunday-Schools, in Bible-classes, in social meetings, and in evangelistic effort. Great attention is paid to music in the churches. Every church has its fine organ and choir ; and net as a substitute for silence on the part of the people, but as an inducement and help to congregational singing, now made more a part of real worship than it used to be, both in the Old World and in the Xew. In the churches of America there is a ful- ness in the singing, a culture, a heartiness which is very attractive and ennobling. Dr. \\'hite of London truly says, "Whithersoever Christianity travels over the earth there it awakens the charm of sacred song in its noblest form as the expression of the soul's joy in things eternal." We have something to say on the churches of America further on. Meantime we only note that they are well attended, well supported financially, all of them doing good work, and many of them with large success and much blessing. We spent a happy Sunday in Montreal. At the forenoon service we worshipped in St, Andrew's Presbyterian Church — the church where the Rev. Gavin Lang, of Inverness, was once minister — now under the pastoral care of my friend, the Rev. Mr. Hill, who is doing excellent service out there. The preacher who happened to occupy the pulpit on that occasion was the Rev. Mr. Stevenson, a Congregational minister in Montreal. The text v^^as from i Chron., xi. 17: "And David longed and said, Oh that one would give me to drink of the water of Beth- lehem that is at the gate !" An able sermon was preached — a sermon full of spiritual thought, deep feeling, and very beauti- fully expressed. At the close of the service, on leaving the church, we overheard a gentleman remark, " It was a discourse that, of no ordinary merit." Another said, "Well, there was no 32 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. twaddle about it, I guess he's a smart man ; he knows what he says." In the afternoon we visited some of the Sunday Schools, and had pleasure in addressing the children. Mr. Bains, the Su])erintendent of the Zion Congregational Church School, invited me to his hospitable home to an afternoon cup of tea, which was the occasion of a friendly Christian gathering ; and, by the way, this is a feature of the social life of Canada, which is very pleasing. Christian friends come together for an hour or an hour and a half, and have prayer and religious conversation on the Sunday evening. On our way to the house of Mr. Bains we witnessed a large procession of Roman Catholics in the streets, headed by a number of priests. After its line of march this procession engaged in a peculiarly mysterious ceremony, of which neither Mr. Bains nor his friends seemed to have any idea what it meant. Occasionally there w^as heard a doleful howl from the priests at the very top of their voices, then followed a solemn " amen " from the people in a quieter and more subdued tone. If we cannot understand them, yet, let us do them credit and at least recognise their devotion and faithfulness to the Catholic Church. In the evening we went to James's Street Church, nor were we disappointed there. A capital sermon was preached from the text " Come and see ;" the whole service was most interesting and full of spiritual refreshment. The service over we next went to the rooms of the Y.M.C.A., where we had promised to address a meeting of young men at 8 o'clock. There was a large respectable audience present ; " Christian workers and earnest seekers after the higher life from all parts of the city," as my friend Mr. Budge expressed himself at the close of the meeting. My address was on " The law and strength of the Christian character." After the first meeting closed, a second meeting was held for prayer, and to give an opportunity for any to remain for spiritual conversation. One scarcely knew whether most to rejoice with those noble young men whose heart-set purpose was visible in the joy of their countenance, or to thank MONTREAL. 33 God for the great desire manifest among so many to learn what those joyous facts of Christian experience really meant. The work of these Y.M.C.A/s in America is now well-known by all interested in such movements, but still there is no little ignorance in some ([uarters regarding it. Differing from ordinary ministerial work it seeks the evangelisation of the people ; es[)ecially does it seek the evangelisation of young men and women by definitely committing them on the side of religion through the acceptance of Jesus Christ and service for the Master. I am glad to have this opportunity of bearing my testimony in favour of the Christian young men of Montreal. Let a stranger to the city but go to the rooms of the Association, and he will find there a most active, earnest band of workers, whose efforts are deserving of the highest praise. One of the most conspicuous of public buildings in Montreal is the M'Gill University, a famous seat of learning, steadily increasing in its popularity among the students, and a valuable institution to all Canada. It was founded by a Scotch merchant, who left a considerable portion of his "goods "for its endow- ment. The principal of the University is the distinguished Dr. Dawson, widely known in this country as in America as a great scholar, teacher, and student of Geology, The other professors, notably Professor Murray, are all men of mark : and there are fully 300 students attending the classes. We have referred to the interest that Christian people take in the churches. As an example, we may mention that Dr, Dawson, in addition to his College work, which is very heavy, teaches a Bible Class at Stanley Street Church, where he is a member, every Sunday afternoon. Stanley Street Church, some of my readers may know, long stood out against instrumental music in tlie service of the sanctuary. Mr. John Leng, M.P. for Dundee, notices this fact in his "America in i''^76," and wonders how they got over the last verse in the Scottish version of the Psalms, where the people are exhorted to praise God with cymbals, trumpets, instruments and organs. 34 AMERICA AMD THE AMERICANS. But come, let us see the far-famed Victoria Bridge before we leave the city. This bridge is altogether a remarkable structure. We crossed it by train, and went under it by boat. In crossing by train one sees nothing, the tube through which the train passes being equivalent to a tunnel. The bridge is best seen from the river, and by taking a boat one gets a fine view of the whole structure. The " Victoria " was constructed by the genius of George Stephenson, at a cost of 7,000,000 dollars. What an immense sum ! exclaims the reader, for a bridge. Yes, an immense sum, but the work was great. Let the reader think. The Victoria Bridge has twenty-five arches or spans in it, and, including the embankments, it is at least a mile and three- quarters long, and is well named " the eighth wonder of the world." It was opened by the Prince of Wales when on his visit to Canada in i860. It connects Montreal in unbroken railway communication with all parts of the United States and though of immense cost it is in every way of immense benefit to Canada ; indeed, its value to the commercial capital alone can- not be over-estimated. After staying for ten days in Montreal, we left the city on a Tuesday night at 9.30. At eight o'clock that same evening we addressed a meeting in the "Association Buildings," at the close of which a few of the young men accompanied us to the railway station — we should say " depot " rather, for this is the name in use in America, and not station. Saying adieu to these young men, we took our seat in the car en route for Ottawa. Very respectable, well-dressed people moved hither and thither. Be- side me sat a curious old priest, with his Prayer-book in his hand. He was inclined to interrogate. At first he was not, as we thought, over-polite, but we did not quarrel ; indeed, we be- came friendly, and entered into conversation together. He wanted to know what country I came from, where I was going, and what was my profession. Finding that we were not of his " faith," he said, somewhat abruptly, " I wonder that you are a Protestant." "Why do you wonder at that?" " Be- IN THE CARS. 35 cause," said he, "the Protestants are all wrong; there is no religion outside the Catholic Church." " Oh ! how can you say so ? Protestant ministers teach and preach Christ, and Christ is religion." " That may be," said he, " but as you speak of ministers, they commit a great evil in that they marry. I am married to the Church, and I care for the Church, and live for the Church. I have built two churches in my day, and if I had had a wife I couldn't have done that." "You are mistaken," we gravely remarked, " had you had a wife you might have perhaps built four churches ; your wife would have helped you ; two can always do more than one." He did not, however, see the force of this, and as he had to leave the car, he had only time to say, "You should be a priest." "Why?" "Oh, because I guess you would make a good one." Ah ! that was flattering from a priest : it was superfluous to add a word. I offered him a small book : he took it, thanked me, promising to read it, and so we parted. But what is all this on the seat ? American newsvendors go to and fro in the railway cars putting down by the side of the traveller a host of books, magazines, pamphlets, and, of course, all for sale. AVe were not inclined to buy. The seller on return- ing had to gather up his goods and go somewhere else in hope of a better " market." But where are we now ? Since leaving Montreal our train has been running at full speed, although, by the way, that does not mean that we have got a great distance on our journey. For though the Americans think and speak of them- selves as uncommonly clever, quick, and "go-ahead" in all their movements, the Grand Trunk did not seem to us to be parti- cularly obliging, or in any great haste to convey passengers to their places of destination. But we must not complain. We have passed several small towns, hamlets, rivers, and hills once held sacred by the tribes of Indians that used to inhabit the villages around. Five hours in the car and we reach Ottawa, the seat of the Canadian Government. Before arriving in the capital we passed 36 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. some fine springs, whose medical qualities are known far and wide, and where during the summer months people flock in large numbers to drink the waters and to enjoy one another's society. Ottawa is, as remarked, the chief seat of the Government of Canada. For a number of years the seat of Government was in Montreal, Quebec, and Toronto in turns. This plan did not work well, and Ottawa was selected as a permanent place, the most desirable in the Dominion. To a stranger its Parliamen- tary buildings are of great attraction. They are very beautiful, and in every way worthy of Canada. They are designed in the Gothic style, constructed of stone, situated on an elevated plateau r6o feet above the Ottawa river, and are seen miles away in all directions. The buildings contain two Legislative Halls, which closely resemble our Westminster Halls ; and like their originals, they are beautifully decorated and handsomely furnished. Not a great many years ago there went to Ottawa, from Wind- sor Castle, the fourth veritable daughter \ Queen Victoria. She was received by the Canadians with acclamations. But Court hfe in Canada must have presented a strange contrast to the Princess from what she had been accustomed to in Kmiland. But she liked Canada, and found herself quite at home in the "primitive court" of Ottawa. Royalty is in great favour among the Canadians, and nothing was wanting on their part to make the Marquis and Marchioness of Lome happy when in their Canadian home. In introducing here the names of the Mar(]uis and Mar- chioness of Lome, we must not overlook the names of Lord and Lady Duffcrin. Both of them were great favourites with the Canadians. Arthur Mursell, in his "Sketches," says, "It would be impossible for any Governor to have acquired a more universal or enthusiastic popularity than did Lord Duffcrin.'' This is true, although, like every outstanding man, the noble lord had " a f«,w detractors." Another name which we often heard mentioned while in OTTAWA. 37 Canada deserves notice. We refer to the Hon. Mr. M'Kenzie. ex Prime Minister. This gentleman is everywhere spoken of as a great and good man, possessing a clear intellect, a comprehen- sive, discerning mind, with "a wonderful memory for facts and figures." Mr. M'Kenzie when Prime Minister, had a strong hold on the affections of the Canadians. Even those who differed from his policy said that he was an earnest, conscientious upright man, in all things anxious for the interests and welfare of the i~ieople. Sir John Macdonnld, the present Prime Minister, is we]l-si)oken of as a clever j-iolitician, a calm, self-possessed man. Imuiedialely above the city, at the western extremity oi Ottawa, are the Cliaudire Falls; of all the Falls in America these are considered by many next in importance, beauty, and grand- eur to Niagara; and certainly the mad rush and whirl, "the boiling, seething, foaming character of the waters give a name to the place," and the whole forms an imi)ressive scene which " a poet-seer might describe, or a painter depict." The Ottawa peo[)le have turned the water to good account, having several large saw- mills at work, employing from five thousand men, and sawing "about 250,000,000, feet of timber per annum." The difficulty in the " lumber " line was long the dulness of trade. But things have changed for the better and the lumber market has con- siderably revived. Leaving Ottawa en route for Kingston and Toronto we pass through a very fine section of the country of Canada. The land presents a fertile appearance, the soil is rich and fruitful ; farm- ing and things in general appear to be in a prosperous condition. The district too, has a name in history, for here during the time of the Indian-French wars several battles were fought, of which legends are blended with chronicle, and d'^ods with victories and defeats; and of which also many amusing stories are told. Three hours after leaving Ottawa we come to Prescott, a town containing 3,500 inhabitants, and soon after to Brorkville, one of the prettiest towns of Canada, — a town which received its name in honour of General Brock who fell on Queenstown Heights in 181 3. CHAPTER IV. THE THOUSAND ISLES, TORONTO, NIAGARA FALLS. AT/"E are now in the district of the famous world-renowned Thousand Isles. These isles, though thus named, are actually i,8oo in number. They vary in size, shape and ajipear- ance, some being but mere dots of rock a few yards square ; others, again, covering acres of land thickly wooded, and in summer wnen rich in foliage the sight presents the most charm- ing picturesque view conceivable. The islands extend on the broad breast of the St. Lawrence to a distance of fifty miles, and are constantly the scenes of the most exciting life. On one of these islands Mr. G. M. Pullman, of the " Pullman Car" lame, has erected a handsome summer villa, which has been visited by many other American and European celebrities. From the number of these islands and the extremely intricate character of the channels among them, an admirable retreat was afforded for the insurgents in the Canadian rebellion of 1837, when it was threatened to overthrow the British Government in the Dominion. A story is told of a man named Johnson, who in his daring opi)osition to the Canadian authorities became an object of pur suit. lie found among these islands a place of safety. His daughter Kate aided him in his seclusion, j roviding provisions for her father, and skilfully rowing him in her canoe from one place of concealment to another, eluding the pursuers under the shadow of night. This faithtul and very devoted daughter re- ceived the title of "Queen of the Thousand Islands," and, noble girl ! she deserved it. The islands abound with sayings and stories of romance, and are full of the traditions of Indian life. For instance, the Indians believe that at some point of the group TORONTO. y^ of the Manitoulin Islands there is gold to be found, but the " Manitou," that is, the Great Spirit, has forbidden his children to go in search of it ; they tell you that those who have been disobedient to the " Manitcu,'' and have risked going, have never returned, but have always been overwhelmed in a tempest, carried away and punished for their disobedience. But we are soon in Kingston, nearly 200 miles distant from Montreal. We had letters of introduction to several gentlemen of this town, but were sorry we could niA present them, ns v/e were unwilling to break our journey. Kingston is an important town in Canada West. It has a population of over 13,000, and is one of the strongest forts in the Dominion, Many of the public buildings are handsome ; there are some good educational insti- tutions in the city and some large churches, the largest being the Romon Catholic chapel. The shipbuilding is very extensive in Kini^'ston, and the different branches of trade and commerce are carried on with great activity and vigour. Having got a glimpse of the town and having refreshed the " inner man," we take our seat again in the car and proceed to- wards Toronto. The train runs through a fertile and prosperous part of the country. We recollect passing fine towns adorned with elegant residences and public buildings. In the car with us. among others, were three gentlemen, who had been as they put it, "exploring Canada," and who gave to all who cared to listen, a glowing description of their mission. " I guess," said one, "it is a great country." " I am embarrassed," said another, "to know what is to be the end of it." "The end of it," said the third, "will be annexation to the States." I'he people of Canada are not so sure about this. The States may stretch ftjrth their arms to Canada, but from all we saw and heard she will not too hastily fall into their embraces. Journeying on, we come within sight of the capital of the province of Ontario, and are soon in the city of Toronto. The day of our arrival was cold ; towards night a tremendous thunderstorm broke out, accompanied by vivid Hashes oi 40 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. lightning and a heavy downfall of rain. We stayed several days in Toronto, and had pleasure in visiting the buildings, institu- tions, and points of interest in and around the town. The country round about Toronto is flat. The city itself is a large important flourishmg i)lace. Its main streets are broad, well paved, well laid out, and well lighted. The buildings are most substantial in appearance ; many of them are exceedingly beautiful, generally built of a light-coloured brick of a soft pleasing tint. Some of the finest building? are Osgf)od Hail, the Lieutenant-Governor's mansion, the Normal School, and Trinity College. The University is a fninous building, and ranks second to none in America as a seat of learning. Tiie Rev. Mr. MarHng was got)d enough to take me to the University, and through the building. The style of architecture is Norman, the best of its kind in America. There are some able professors here, and a large number of students. " The Canadians of the rising generation,'' says a writer, " ought to be well instructed, for they have many advantages.'' Principal (Irant i)cars a high name in the University and throughout Canada, lie is a scholar, distinguished for his great learning, his wide and varied accomplishments, and for his most successful labours amoni; the students, by whom he is regarded with feelings of loyalty and affection. Referring to the public buildings and institutions of Toronto, there are some twenty banks in the city, and over sixty large handsome churches. One of the largest of the churches is the fine Wesleyan Tabernacle, erected during the time of the late Dr. Punshons eloquent ministry, which stands in the centre of the town on a large square, and is an edifice of great si/e, comfort, and beauty. " Ah," said the gentleman, who took me through the building, " it was a good thing for Toronto that Dr. Punshon came from England : and good also," he added, "that Daniel happened to be cast into the den of lions," " But what had Daniel to do with Dr. Punshon's coming here, or Dr. Punshon with Daniel in the den of lions?" " Why sir," said TORONTO. 41 he, " have you not heard of Dr. Punshon's famous lecture on 'Daniel?' While in Toronto, as our minister, he went all over America delivering that lecture, raising money to erect a church to a .commodate the crowds that come to hear him preach ; and here it stands, and will stand for ages, in memory of that great and TOod man.'' I understood mv friend now, and coni^ratulated him in having had, for a time in Toronto, the ministry of so |)o\verful and so eloquent a preacher as the late Morley Punshon really was. " Yes," we remarked, " it was gcjod for the Wesleyans that Dr. Punshon came fro:n England, and good, as you say, that Daniel was cast into the den of lions, otherwise, you might not have had this fine Tabernacle." " I guess not," said he, l)rnudly shaking his head, as though he believed that a kind Providence had had in view the erecting of the Wesleyan Church of Toronto when Daniel was cast into the den of lions. At all events the building is a large, noble, structure, and accommo- dates 3,000 people with comfort. During our stay in the city we addressed two large meetings, at the request of some of the min' -ters, to whom we were introduced by our friend Mr. Smith, a gentleman in business out there, who went from Glasgow, now a good many years ago. In visiting the rooms of tiie Y. M. C. A. at the Central Buildings we were pleased to find a number of the young men of the city interested in Association work, though there was not the same deep interest manifested in this respect in 'I'oronto. nor the same energy, life, and blessing, as in Montreal, The contrast struck us very forcibly. The manufacturing interests of Toronto are considerable. Almost every branch of industry is engaged in, but especially is an extensive business carried on in the "lumber" line. The harbour affords great facilities for shi|)ping. Numbers of steamers run daily from east to west ; the traffic is very e.Ktensive. Leaving Toronto at 7 a.m., v\'e crossed Lake Ontario to Lewiston by steamer, a distance of thirty miles, and from thence seven miles 42 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. by train, and at ii a.m., we got our first glimpse of the rushing, thundering, roaring waters of the great Niagara. When the train halted, we left our baggage at the station, and iiurried to the Falls. Passing the village oi Niagara, we were guided to the spot by a thick cloud of mist, rising lar above the waters, hovering about in the air. The llrst view which we got was from Prospect Point. The conception that abides in ones mind of the whole scene is composed of a multitude of impressions. Niagara is a sight to be pondered over, and reflected upon. It would be easy to write a chapter and fill it with notes of admira- tion ; but it is not so easy to communicate the iin[)ressions made on the mind, as one gazes on such a iiiighty tumun of majestic grandeur. We shall briefly note what we saw, leaving it to produce in the reader's thoughts what fiielings it may. The view transports the traveller to another world ; it excites within him mysterious emotions of mingling wonder, delight, and awe. It is notliing to say tliat the spectacle is sublime, stupendous, gorgeous — a scene of might, majesty, and power. Language is too meagre to describe the scene at Niagara. The continuous roaring of the waters awakens astonish ment. But the correct idea is most difficult to give. It is as if all the lions that have lived since the time of Daniel till now had been let loose to raise their voice in one tremendous roar : yet the idea is not one of noise; there is nothing of terror or clatter conveyed by the sound; it is rather the sound of a grand rolling organ, or of thunder in subdued tone, reverberating among the mountains ; nor is the presence and influence of the roaring water disturbing, but calming to the mind. The sound both appeals to the ear and to the eye, and leaves stamped upon the heart a feeling, changeless and indelible, an image of enchanting grandeur. 'I'here are two great Falls. The larger is the Canadian, or Horse Shoe Fall. It is 1,900 feet in widtl with a drop of 160 feet. The beauty of this Fall is the curve of the water, resembling a horse-shoe. The descending sheet that pours over the ledge is twenty feet thick, varying in resplendent colours as FALLS OF yLiCAKA. 43 the beams of a clear sun play upon it. Professor Lycll states thai about fii'tcen hundred niiilions of cubic feet of water pass over this lall every hour. '["he smaller Fall is the American. It is 900 feet in width, with a drop uf 164 feet. BdiIi i-"a!ls re-unite their waters at the foot, and the river runs varying iu breautii from 6oo to 1,000 feet, in depth Iroin 200 to 300 lect. Immediately below the .Vmcrican Fall is an inclined tramwa)-. moved up and douii ()y means o{ an endless rope, l.ly the side is a staircase, if one prefers to walk, of 300 ste[)s. l*erry-boats are at the foot of the incline, to row siiihtseers across ; to strangers the crossing looks perilous, within the very spray of the Falls. I e.\[)ressed myself so to the boatman, but he only smiled at my timidity, and at (lice started for tiie other side. Hut the feeling of danger leaves the mind, and from the boat, as we sail acrcjss, is obtained one uf the I'lnest views of the hurrying waters, dashing with madden- in- impetuosity to the gulf beiow. I'iie tmy vessel gives additional effect, and impresses u[)on one s mind the vastness of ilic scene. We were greatly itruck with the siilmess of the river. li appeared hardly to move , \et there must l)e intense motion, lor a short distance down there is a tremendous agitation. On the Canadian side, on IJritish soil, stands the large Clifton House Hotel, commanding in a single view the entire Fall. The cloud of vapour from this point presents an ever-moving picture, fresh in lorni, as the wind turns it about. On the edge of the Horse Shoe Fall is a small museum. We strolled in to see it. It is (juite a '" curiosity shop," with " objei is " and " views," and all sorts of small articles for sale. Purchasing a icv: mementoes of our visit, we returned to the American side. Instead of taking the ferry-boat we crossed the river by the Suspension Bridge. This bridge was opened in 1869; it is 1,800 feet below the Falls ; it has a tmver at each end 120 I'eet high. The span is 1,230 feet from tower to tower. The height fiom the water is 25O feet. There is a single track for carriages, and space 44 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. for foot passengers. The view from the bridge, suspended in mid-air, is exceedingly fine. A bridge leads across the rapids to Goat Island, with its wonderful sii;hts and thrilling incidents. This island is a delightfully pleasant spot in summer. It is covered with trees and bubhes, evergreens, grass, and wildflowers grow in ai)un- dance, the atmosi)here of s[)ray being favourable to vegetation. We linger on the spot. We go to the very brink of the rapids. We watch the waves tossing about in all directions. We stand on the rocks around which the wild waters are foaming and surging. The upper part of the island presents a w;)ndrous sight to the eye. The river, u))wards of three-quarters of a mile broad, exhibits a scene of wild confusion, and a[)pears to be coming down with appalling fury, as if determined and powerful enough to sweep away the whole island, which it doubtless will by degrees. We felt the solid rocks tremble as we stood listening to the everlasting roar. At the lower end of (ioat Island, standing between the two mighty cataracts, the appear- ance of Niagara is sublime. Here the scene is majestic. It overwhelms the mind with a sense of awe. A friend who was with us remarked, as he gazed on the torrent preparing and hastening to fake the fearful jilunge : "That is a sight of speech- less wonder !" The cloud of spray and mist reminds one of the pillar of cioud which guided the Israelites in the wilderness, and feeling as \u Jehovah's presence, I thought I heard a voice saying, " Put off thy shoes from off thy feet, for the place whereon thou standest is holy ground." A small house is erected on the side of the rocky precipice that overlooks the Falls for the accommodation of visitors wishing to pass under the wonderful "Cave of the Winds." Oilskin dresses are provided, and a guide accompanies us. P"urther and further down we go amid blinding showers of spray. At length the lowest depth is reached. How strange the scene I The rocks behind, the mighty torrent above, the darkness, the din, the roar, the splashing floods all around, are startling, and create FALLS OF M AGAR A. 45 in the imagination a strange, nervous impression. One feels when standing here as in a dream. Above the Canadian Fall are three rocky islets called ** The Sisters." There are strong bridges, slightly convex, leading to these " Sisters." The remotest of this grouj) is the island where a gentleman was rescued by means of a rope as he was being rapidly borne down by the current. There is seldom a year but some lose their lives in venturing into places of danger among the rapids. Two young people at a pic-nic [larty were hurried into the foaming abyss the week previous to our visit, and a couple on their marriage tour a few weeks before lost their lives in the same wa\. We once heard the late John Gough, the famous temperance orator tell, in the City Hall of Glasgow, in the most graphic language, the story of one who, venturing too near the rapids, lost all command of himself and fell over into the abyss, and no trace of him was ever found. A long interesting story is told of "The Hermit of the Falls." It is this, in brief. A gentleman of education and culture made his ap[)earance at Niagara. He was fascinated with the beauty and grandeur of the i)lace. It was lu him a temple of adoration, and feeling " it 's good to be here,' he built a tabernacle, in which he lived, studiously avoiding all society. After a year's residence, the poor hermit was one day gratifying himself with a bathe in the river when, seized with the cramp, his body dis* ajjpeared. Days after it was found miles from his desolate hut. The motives that led him to seclude himself are still wrapped in obscurity. .\round the Falls has sprung up a little town. It is simi)ly a busy bazaar all summer. The shops are filled with fans, photo- graphs, screens, ornaments, jewellery, and animate and inanimate wonders. Guides, touters, sellers of relics, infest Niagara during the season of visitors. Hut we are informed the place is ([uiet enough in winter. The sellers go back to the cities, and leave only the resident population, which we compute at 2,500. In 46 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. surveyinu the Falls and communing on their grand reality, the words of Old England's great poet were recalled to mind : — " These are Thy glorious works, Pannt of gooci. Almighty i Thine this imive:->al frame, This wondrous fair. Thyself how wondrous tlien, Unspeakable ! who sittest above these heavens To us invisible, or dimly seen In these, Tliy lowest works." And again the lines of Mrs. Sigoiirney when she sang : — " Flow on for ever in thy glorious robe Of terror and of beauty. Yea. flow on Unfatliom'd and resistless — God hath set IIi> rainbow on thy Ajrehead, and the cloud Mantled round thy feet. And He doth give Thy voice of thunder jiower to speak of Ilini Eternally — bidding the lip of man Keep silence -and upon thine altar pour Incense of awe-struck praise." Yet some are but little moved and less inspired with Niagara. An Irishman once remarked, " Shiire, it wotild be a mi^htv grand place if it were in Ireland.'" 'What the late Henry Ward r>ee(her said of visitors to America, may be said of visitors to the Falls. " 'J'hree classes," said Mr. Leecher, "should not visit America ; those who have eyes to see but see not ; those whose bilious tem])eraments make them that they can hardly be civil : and those who on all subjects arc better informed and know more than others."" Why some individuals have no wish to see the Falls of Niagara would not be difficult to shew, but when Mr. Froude, the great historian of England tells us in his " Oceana ' that he was within a iaw hours of Niagara and yet did not go and see the sight for himself, we are the more surprised. Men and their tastes are strange things! A gentleman whom woj know, who visited Paris during the summer of the FAhil)ition in; 187S, was askid by some friends what he thought of the Exhibition — *' The F^xhibition," said he, " is a huge i)lace, but I FALLS OF XIAGARA. 47 didn't go aii'l see it; the fact is, there were too many goings," by which we suppose he meant it was not select enough for him. Mr. Froude seems to have b;iHeved all '• the nonsense " that is talked about Niaj;ara, and was too easily turned aside from see- ing the >ight for himself Anthony Trollope, Professor Tyndall, \V. D. Howells, Newman Hall, and a host of other eminent travellers all write and speak of Niagara as the one surpassing glory of America. The Princess and her husband when in Canada enjoyed their visit to the Falls, and speak of the scene as of thrilling attraction, the most glorious in vision of all the great sights they left behind them in the New AVorld. Returning from the Canadian side, coming over the Suspension Bridge, we made up to a gentleman who was strolling about, Mzing on things around. He was an Englishman, a man of O C? O 7 some culture, and "scientifically inclined." He was an artist: he had been sketching the FaUs from various points of view. I found him a most intelligent, agreeable companion ; we kept to- gether for a time. He showed me some proof sheets of an able work on a scientific subject that he had corrected during the early morning, and sai 1 he was assisting the author in bringing this book through the press. As we talked together a walking photographer drew up, and raising his hat, he asked, "Have you had your photos taken?" " Yes," we replied, " />u/ not here" emphasising the words. He then turned out of a small hag a number of photographs showing the position of individuals that he had photograi)hed, some with their faces to the Falls, some with their backs, some on their knees, and others in atti tudes which cannot very easily be described. " Anything," as my companion remarked, "to drive a trade and so gain the favourite dollar.". It was here, one is reminded, where the brave but too daring Captain Webb lost his life. The boatman who rowed him to the top of the Rapids advised him " to let well alone " and enjoy the ^5000 he had won in peiforming feats in the English Oiannel, but he would not be advised, and poor man he perished 48 AMERICA AXD THE AMERICANS. in the roaring currents. Since then a man and a woman per- formed the daring and most dangerous prank together in a barrel ; while a man from Boston attempted the feat and got tiirough with the aid of a cork jacket. He was insensible for hours afterwards, and thinks he must have been mad to have ventured on such a perilous experiment. We shall not longer detain the reader in further attempting to describe Niagara Falls. Every traveller gives his own experience. At first sight the Falls to some are disappointing, but after lin- gering on the spot, after surveying the waters above and below, they grow on the mind until they become impressive in their giandeur and beauty. We only wish that our friends in the Old Country had been with us, to share in the pleasure of a scene which attracts from all lands, and which will remain through all the eventful years to come the natural glory of the New World, and well worth crossing the great Atlantic to see. CHAPTER V. DETROIT TO CHICAGO.— IMPRESSIONS OF THE AMERICAN BOARD OF MISSIONS. r\^ the evening of Friday, October i, we reluctantly took ^-^^ leave of Niagara to go west to spend the Sunday in Detroit. We vv'ent by way of Buffalo, a rapidly growing ciiy situated on the lower extremity of Lake Erie, and a place, we were told, of much wealth and intelligence. We passed through the centre of the city and saw its large shops, its busy streets, its handsome churches, and beautifully wooded squares. The general features of the country are pleasant. The district is the centre of a fine agricultural region. The soil is fertile, in some places deep, rich, and abundantly prolific. There are many thriving farms in this part of the country, the average size of which is loo acres. But there are fine farms three times that size to be seen. Rural scenery in autumn appears to ad- vantage in America. The "fall '" is the best time of the year for travelling there. The trees are exceptionally beautiful ; gorgeous in the rich colour of autumnal leaves — gold and scarlet and crimson foliage. But journeying on, towards morning we came to the River St. Clair, which we crossed at Sarnia, but not by bridge, as our trains cross rivers at home. No, the Americans are a go-ahead people ; they do things differently from us ; so at Sarnia the car runs on to a steamer which is waiting the arrival of the train, when passengers going west are taken across the St. Clair without ever once having to move from their seats. As the boat was crossing bearing the car to the other side, we made the remark to a Yankee friend, " This is wonderful ! How clever you Americans are ! " " Yes," replied he, " I guess we 50 AMERICA AND THE AMERICA .VS. know how to go about things." Well, the incident referred to, though in itself trivial, is one significant of the Yankee character, and of the enterprise and of the speedy way things are done on the American continent. At Sarnia we had time for refreshment, then starting, we arrived in Detroit on Saturday forenoon, at eleven o'clock. Detroit is a fine old town, one of the oldest in the country, and very pleasant for a stranger to visit. It was founded by the French of Canada in 1670 ; then a small place, but now it has grown so in size that it extends along the Detroit River for nearly three miles. The streets are wide, and in the upper part of the town well laid out, and finely shaded with trees. The private residences and villas are built in good taste ; they have all a considerable allotment of garden ground attached to them, which is beautifully ornamented and finely kept. The shops, warehouses, and stores are large, and every branch of trade and industry carried on. The churches are commodious and numerous. We shall not soon forget the pleasant Sunday we spent in Detroit. Having met the Rev. Mr. Milligan, of the Scotch Presbyterian Church, on Saturday, we worshi])ped with him and his good people on Sunday morning. Mr. Milligan preached a capital sermon, instinct with life and moral intensity. There was a large, intelligent, and attentive audience. In the afternoon we visited the Sunday School in connection with Mr. Milligan's church, and had pleasure in ad- dressing the children. In the evening I preached to the congre- gation at the usual hour. At the close of the service several friends from the Old Country came round to the vestry, express- ing their good wishes, and hoping that we might have a j^leasant and enjoyable time in America. \Ve have the pleasure of recording that in the old Scotch Presbyterian Church of Detroit, the Rev. Dr. Ferguson, of the E. U. Churrh, Montrose Street, Cilasgow, preached when on a visit to ...iierica some years ago. His sermon is remembered by those who heard him with pleasure and profit. " It was the means," said one, " of life and blessing DETROIT. 51 to me." '■ I, too, received good from it," said another, and re- member the sermon well." The evening servire in the churches of Detroit commences at S.15— a rather late hour, the reader may say, at least compared with the hour of our evening service in England and Scotland where an evening service is held. We asked why the ordinary evening service was so late, and suggested an earlier hour, hut ministers and friends to whom we spoke only smiled and said, "An earlier hour would not do; the ])eople like a late hour, and would not come earlier. Well, every country follows its own customs, but 8.15 seems late; but a late hour for the Sunday evening service is the established custom all over ('anada and the United States. On Monday during the day we visited the various institutions and places of interest in Detroit, in the evening attended a public meeting of the citizens in the Opera House on the ques- tion of the due observance of the Lord's Day in the city. In Detroit there is a large (ierman, l-'rench, and Irish element in the pojnilation, which inclines to infringe on the Sabbath by o])ening shops and by doing business on that day. At the time of our visit, the (juestion of *' Sunday trading '" was one greatly agitating the peojjie of Detroit. The mayor of the city, fcjrtun- ately, v.as a Scotchman, and, true to " his colours," set his face against all infringement of the Sabbath. The meeting which we attended in the Opera House, was large and enthusiastic ; the sjieeches were animated and powerful. \\'e wtre glad that we went to the meeting, for we saw and heard sufficient to convince us that the respected citizens would not allow the Sunday to be misused, but would preserve it to the town as the day of rest. All honour to the Scotch mayor ! We lelt the meeting at 9.30 p.m., as the prophetic words were being heartily sung which we often heard while in America : " There's a good time coming." It was a beautiful night. Our course was still westward. Chicago was the next city we had " booked for.'' The country between I )etroit and Chicago is not particularly mteresting. We 52 AMEIUCA AND THE AMERICANS. remember passing through belts of forest giving way to cultiva- tion. Here and there were large piles of wood ; everything looked rustic and new. The fields cleared out were divided by wo(jdcn fences. With the exception of the elm, the oak, and pine, other trees are not saleable, and are burnt on the fields. In places wht.'re the plough was at work we noticed all oxer the fields, in new districts, the bare trunks of trees standing, present- ing to the traveller a strange appearance, and, as a friend facetiously remarked, " an expressive censure on the advance of civilisation " for so destroying the i)rimneval forests not long ago inhabited and trodden by wild animals. Emigrants, we imagine, settling here, find it rou;^h work for a time, but by and by, if steady and persevering, they get on well, and live in comfort, the lords of their own domains. The soil of Michigan is generally of black mould, and grows fine wheat and corn. The word "corn," however, in America always denotes '' Indian corn '' or maize. The straw is of no use : it is burnt on the field to get it out ot the way. At my side in the car sat an intelligent Canadian farmer. In conversation he remarked that Scotchmen were by far tlie best class of men to engage in farming out in America, particularly rough farming. They clear the ground and make for themselves a good farm, he went on to say, in less than half tl.e time that many do from other countries. I inquired at him the rate of wages, l-arm labourers get from 15 to 20 dollars per month, with board. Bui in Canada there are five months in winter when labour is altogether suspended because of the frost and the severity of the weather. Ma^on?, ( arjjenters, and bri( klayers get from 2 t(j 3 dollars a day. and have no diffic ulty in finding constant cinploynieni all the year throuu'h. When I am asked : '• IK) you advise trades- men to go to America?'' I reply, and without he/.itation, •' Most certainly I do." There is room in that great country —even in Canada alone — for millions more than at present inhabit it. A hard working steady man has chances in America he never can DETROIT TO CHICAGO. 53 have at home. Such a man will always find employment, and is not likely in the New World ever to become a hel|)le.ss paui.er. On the journey between Detroit and Chicago there were in the car several coloured travellers of the Negro race. They were afTable. conversational, and amusing. Three of thiin appeared as if Univeisity students, from the intelligent and able way in which they discussed University subjects. One of the three in particular was entitled to be styled eloquent — indeed an enthusiast on University matters, from his manner of speeih. Ihe other two both showed themselves to be well-read in educational affairs ; all the three could apply a robust incisive rriti(ism with tlie sting of satire, to the weak [joints in the sphere of the higher education of their country. We are accustomed to talk and think of " the black men '' of the world as so far behind the white men. as less intelligent and loss able to deal with intellectual problems, but if the three above referred to be a fair sanijile, they will, with our advantages as a people, rival us any day. .\t one of the stations a gentleman came into the car, and Scaling himself beside me, began, after a few nunutes, to question mc in the fc^llowing fashion : " Are you travelling far?" " Where are you from ? " " Not from the States I gues-^ ? " " .Are you from Lower Canada?" "Oh no," I replied, "I am not frv)m the Slates nor from Lower Canada." He then asked me, '• .\re you a stranger f '' " What profession are you ? " " What's your age?" His ([ueslions were most amusing : and not being 1:1 any haste to answer him, he went on with a string of them longer than I can remember. Concluding at last that I was a jirofessor or doctor of medicine, — it was too bad of me, but I allowed him to rest in tiie satisfaction of his conclusion, simply saying, " you are near enough my profession now ?" This incident of travel was to me very amusing ; and were I not to make a remark upon it, it wt)uld go to confirm the errone- ous impression that is abroad in our country, that the .\mericans are impolite to strangers, and rude in spee( h and behaviour. So 54 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. far as my observation went when in America, this is not the case. The (juestions put by the gentleman referred to were not meant as "rude,' but rather in the way of that kindly interest wiiich is characteristic of the V'ankees, and without any intention or wisli to offend a stramier traveliini' in their country. Kverv -latiop and people have their own national life, their own manners a* a customs, growing out of their own history and surroundings. Our conclusions of one another are often loo hastily drawn and erroneous. My imjjression of the Americans is tlii>, — they are intelligent, free, and frank, of a kindly tli->position, without re- straint, and obliging to a degree. When we arrived in Chicago — the wonder of the world as the ciiy is called — it was moining. The station officials were smari looking men, very attentive to those travellers who hid luggage, or "baggage," as it is termed across the Atlantic. Chicago, pro- nounced "Shikahgo,' is a large, crowded city, the Xew York (jf the W'e^t, a city of rapid growth, though the signs of this are not so ap[)arent as one might suppose. Tiie wcxjden houses that we read of are all in the outskirts. Chicago proper, is substantialiy built, [)resenting to the eye, warehouses, shops, and buildmgs of that magnitude which means business, wealth, and energy. About lo o'clock a.m., as we started to make the acc[uaintance of those gentlemen to whom we had letters of introduction, we observed here and there great nu nbers of well-dressed people hurrying along with book in hand, is if going to church on Sunday. What could this mean? The explanation was tliat the "American I)oard of Missions" had met in Chicago and was holding there its week of Atmual Meetings. It may be interesting to present a brief notice of what we saw and heard of the work carried ou by this Board of Missions. The place of mcetmg was Farwell Hall. This Hall belongs to the Young Men's Christian Association of Chicago. It is situated in Madison Siieet, in the midst of the business portion of the city, and owes its existence to Mr. Moody, the well-known Evangelist, at whose suggestion it received its name, alter one «'! AMERICAN BOARD OF MISSIONS. 55 the warmest friends and supporters of the association. Farwcll Hall is a ncjblc buildin^', and cost many thousand [)ounds. It has galleries all round, and seats 2,500 people. Besides the large hall the building contains a lesser hall for lecturer-, a lihrary, class-rooms, reading-rooms, dining-rooms, bedrooms, offices ()i relerence (where young men seeking employment register their names), and other convenient and valuable apart- ments. It is in this building where the far-famed Chicago noon-day prayer-meeting is held. Here the merchants and men of busi- ness come together and spend an hour or half-an-hour in prayer in the midst of the bustle of the day. It is a rule of this noon- day meeting that no one is allowed more than three minutes to speak or pray. It matters not who the gentleman may be, it is one of the first principles of the meeting to touch the bell when tlie three minutes are up. The rule is a good one. Many have thus an i^ppc^rtunity to speak or pray ; and, besides, the jjrinciple acts as an admirable check on mere speaking to \\\\ up time, when a speaker has really nothing to say. We made our way lo i'arwell Hall, and found it almo,-,t filled with ministers, missionaries, delegates, and friends who had gathered to this great religious convention, I can never forget the im|>ressive sight, nor tiie interest manifested in the subjects discussed by the i)uard, nor the courtesy, kindness, and hospitality shown to strangers and visitors by the Christian friends of Chicago. On the wall behmd the platform, for the occasion, were suspended three large maps: (i) I'iie World; (2) Asia .Minor; (3) India. The following mottoes surrounded the ma[)s, and could easily be read ix^nw any part of the hall : " The field is the world "; '" Tlie gift of God is eternal life"; "The earth shall be full of the knowledge of the Lord"; "Preach the unsearchable riches of Christ"; "Watchman, what of the night?" " ihe morning Cometh''; "Israel shall blossom and bud, and fill the face of the world with fruit "; " Lo, I am with you alvvay, even unto the end of the world." On the platform sat fathers, ripe in intelligence, men of mark, 56 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. and such as were more prominently to take part in the meetings. It was a noble sight, one upon which we are not often permitted to gaze. How fortunate in being in Chicago at this time ! The singing was inspiringly grand ! It was conducted by Mr. Bliss, perhaps the finest and most effective singer in America. He sang several solos, accompanying himself on the cabinet organ. His full, rich, sweetly-modulated voice, with his whole soul in tlie words, thrilled and stimulated and helloed the audience to devotional feeling. We are extremely sorry to lecord that since this meeting of the lioard of Missions in Chicago, Mr. Dliss " lost his life " in a railway catastro])he which occurred in the west of America. But the calamity found this noble man waiting the call with his face towards heaven. He was a good man, of whom it was said, " he sang f(jr love of souls and his country." And now, though his voice can no more be heard in the world below, it is heard in the world above, for there, far away on the everlasting hills, he joins " the throng " in songs of redeeming love. We were gratified in hearing progress reported. In the various churches and mission-stations of the Board a great and a noble work is being done. In the Zulu Mission numerous cases of awakening and conversion during the past recent years had cheered the hearts of the missionaries. In Western Turkey the Ciospel is quietly gaining in influence and power. In Central Turkey the missionaries spoke hopefully of the work. In Eastern Turkey progress was reported, and it was emphasised that native Christians engage heartily in aggressive operations. The thought occurred to us in the meeting that some of the Christians at home might do 'worse than take a hint from these native brethren. The Empire of India is moving intellectually and socially. The field is one of great promise. The work in China, too, was spoken of as very interesting. In North China prejudice is passing away, and there is an open door for the Gospel. In Japan opportunities for doing good are very abundant. In Nicronesia the "good news " spreads from island AMERICAN BOARD OF MISSIONS. 57 to island. The missionaries labouring among the American Indians have many hindrances, hut they receive tokens of divine favour. The missions also in papal lands are hopeful. In Spain, and in the Austrian I-^mpire, although th^re have long been hard struugles, yet good is being accomplishetl, and labourers are encouraged to work, to [jray and e\;>ect soon to see a speedier march to victory. There were good men, wise men, —ministers of ( iiurches, pro- fessors of colleges, missionaries, and la\ men —from all parts of America, and from widely-extended mission fields, all met to re- port, to pray, and arrange mi'^^ionar}- effort. A^ at the May Meetings in London, an annua! missionary sermon is preached. Dr. Andrews, president of the Afarielta College, was the preacher. His text was Rom. i. 14, from which he ably enforced the idea tliat Christians om^/it lo feel that they pay a debt rather than offer a gift when they give part of their means to the su{)port and spread of the (lospel. The sermon was cjuielly but effectively delivered : there was much in it for meditation and reflection. but one feels it impossible to re[)roduce in prmt the spirit and scene of such a gathering. Tb.e Hoard met for five days ; it is gratifying to know that year alter year it grows in its numbers, representative character, and power. " We need all our strength,"' remarked one with touching pathos ; " for it is terribly hard to raise a fallen world." " It is not easy to break the prejudices of the heathen." Vet "' He is faithful that promised." Irom various other parts missionaries testified that His Word had come not in word only, but in [tower ; and their combined testi- mony was a beautiful proof of the divine efficacy which accom- panies the preaching of the (losjjel in all lands. After the reports of the work were given, the vast asse' ibly sang with great heart and joyful spirit, the well-known hymn : — "The morning light is breaking," etc. i'lesident Hopkins remarked that in this divinely appointed mission " angels had taken part ; " and from all we saw and felt 4 58 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. of the spirit of the labourers from distant fields we may be allowed to say that the kind people in Chicago had "entertained them unawares." A sacred grandeur characterised the meetings all through : we felt a holy impulse of great and mighty faith per- vading them in a marked degree. There were different ideas ventilated as to the advisability of certain plans of action ; but there was entire oneness of spirit as to the ends sought to be ac- complished. Seldom have we witnessed a deeper desire to embrace the world with heart, hopes, and prayers Nor did the enthusiasm of the meetings spend itself in words and prayers as is too often the case. The peoi)le of America are thoroughly practical and large-hearted. It was announced that 45,000 dols. were raised during the few davs of meetings for the work of the Board. The chairman stated that money was needed, and "like the blessed rain of heaven,"' wrote a friend, "gifts poured in u[)on us." Here was seen a proof of true faith, and so beneficent, that the chairman remarked : " We have now enough ; let us close the meeting." For a few moments we were asked to bow our heads in silent prayer, and then all rose and heartily joined in singing the glorious old Marseillaise of Christendom : — " All hail the power of Jesus' name, Let angels prostrate fall ; Bring forth the royal diadem, And crown him Lord of all," etc. Touching words of farewell were then spoken by the mission- aries, and again the great audience rose and joined in singing the hynm : — " Blest be the tie that binds, Our hcnrts to one in love ; " etc. The benediction was pronounced, and the large gathering separated, never all again to meet until from their different reap- in^ fields the Master shall call them to bring home their gathered sheaves, to be united and glorified with Christ their Saviour and Head for ever. AMEKICAX BDARD OF MISSIONS. 59 The American Board of Missions is doing a truly noble work as a Missionary Association. This Mission has many warm advo- cates and sympathising friends tliroiighout America. Its work in distant lands is known far and wide : its annual gatherings go far to stir u]i missionary zeal and to foster that large Christian unity which in the whole world we need so much. If there be one thing more than another, that the earnest Christian people of America are enthusiastic about, it is Foreign Missions. The appeals made to the churclies at their large gatherings, not so much for money as for men, are profoundly impressive. Young students are invited in finishing their college course to consider the claims of the foreign field, and ask themselves why they should not go as missionaries abroad. One speaker who had been on tlic mission field for many years, advocated the cause of missions with unusual eloquence. "It is," he said, "a strange thing to hear that much hackneyed cry ' Missions a failure' : wherein consists the ' failure ' ? is the mystery to us. Can it be shown ? No," he replied, "it would be nearer the truth in all charity to speak of ' failure ' at home rather than abroad. But on this great question of Foreign Missions the prejudice is rapidly passing away, and the Christian nations of tiie world are fast coming to see and feel alike." Leaving the meeting on our way home, we remarked to our friend Mr. Blane, "your foreign Missions are in the hands of noble men, able advocates who honour their work, men who can give a good account of themselves." " I guess you're right," replied Mr. Blane ; "our ministers abroad, some of them, are very distinguished, and foremost in the field of Mission enterprise." We were impressed on the great occasion referred to with the deep interest manifested in Missions, with the great ability, high tone, and spiritual character of the missionaries. Those who have a " prejudice "' against Missions should visit America during the annual sittings of the American Board, and consider the subject anew in the light of the testimony supplied there, supported by facts brought forward in the spread of Christianity from scores of distant missions all over the vast kingdoms of the world. CHAPTER VI. CHICAGO.—MATERIAL ASPECTS, MORAL TONE, MIS- CELLANEOUS RECOLLECTIONS. A NEA\' England friend, whom I met when travelling in .\ustria the year before I made my American tour, bade me very carefully observe things in Chicago, " for in many respects," said he, " what you see there will give you a fair im- pression of our cities and people." I recalled to mind his words, and shall now endeavour to give the reader the result of my visit to that great city, as far as my limited faculties of observa- tion will allow. Chicago is situated on the south shore of Lake Michigan, more than one thousand miles of railway journey from Boston, and two thousand miles from the sea by Buffalo, Montreal, and Quebec. But though Chicago be two thousand miles from the sea, vessels load there, and by means of lakes, rivers, canals, and the river St. Lawrence, find their way to the Atlantic, and in many instances do not shift their cargo till they reach their destination on this side. When we told this to a friend, he remarked : " It is wonderful.'' And so it is ; but Chicago, as we have already hinted, is the wonder of the New World. Travellers and tourists to the States who have not visited Chicago, have not seen America. The growth of the city has been something marvellous. It is not more than fifty years old, but has a population of ntarly, if not altogether, 6co,ooo inhabitants. In wealth, com- merce, and trade, it is perhaps the second city of America. The railway traffic is immense. This gives to the city, very largely, its splendid commercial advantages. Chicago has railway communication with all parts of America. Trains come CHICAGO. 6i from the South, the East, and the North-West, bringing to the markets and the stores of the city the produce of the now cul- tivated prairie-lands of the tar West. I'here are forty different Hnes of raihvay in direct communication with Chicai,'o. The number of trains arriving in the city and leaving daily is over three hundred ; and when one remembers that it is less than fifty years since the first rail was laid, this is the more wonderful. Of the various industries of Chicago, the most extensive are in timber, grain, beef, pork, wool, hides, and live stock. Mr. Blane, a retired merchant, in taking us to places of interest in and around this wonderful city, remarked with a smile : " You see. sir, we are on the way to outstrip New York." ^Ye have said in a former chapter that it was worth crossing the great Atlantic to see Niagara ; but to men of business, interested in the material piogress of a country — in railways, markets, manu- factories, shipping, and other kinds of enterprise, it is more worth crossing the Atlantic to see Chicago. Fifty five years ago, the name did not appear in the best maps of America. The first white men who visited the district were two Jesuit mis- sionaries, in 1662. The Delaware Indians, or real men, as they called themselves, inhabited the regions ; in 18 18, (jnly two white families resided in Chicago. The first white man who erected a house for himself in the i)lace, we take credit in saying, was a Scotchman. In 1831, a dozen families constituted the entire population. The gentleman who infijrmed us as to these historical facts was proud to say that his family was " one of the twelve." Up to 1831 there had been no progress in Chicago — no streets, no constituted town council, no post otifice, no religious services, no Sunday-schools, and, what may appear to some strange, no Christian evangelization or missionary effort. At this date, Chicago was but a camp in the woods, invaded by bears and wolves, and attacked by savages. In 1835, ^ number of p^eople engaged in the fur trade settled in the place, and the population increased to about 3000. It was at this period of 62 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. its history that a permanent purpose of colonization originated among the settlers. The grand Illinois and Michigan canal was commenced which connects the great ciiain of lakes with the Mississippi, and to it is traced the tirst real impetus in Chicago's trade and conmiercc. The city went on increasing, when, in March, 1837, a formal city charier was granted ; the first muni- cipal election was held, when W. B. Ogden, Esq., was chosen Mayor. The following statistics in round numbers will show the re- markable growth of Chicago. In 18 18 only two white families ; in 183 1 only a dozen, among wolves and savages ; in 1840 there was a population of 5000; in 1845, 12,000; in 1850, 29,000: in 1855, 70,000: in 1S60, t 10,000; in 1865, 200,000: in 1870, 300,000; in 1875,400,000; in 1880, 500,000, and now there are about 600,000 in the city. The growth of Chicago has been very wonderful. It has received the name, and is everywhere known in America as the "' go-ahead," or the " lightning city " of the United States. Newman Hall says when he visited Chicago he thought he saw the word " go-ahead '■ written on every face, and heard or hinted in every conversation. Many things which we had read of the Americans we could not believe until we crossed the Atlantic ; for example, the rais- ing, the moving and shifting of houses. We had read of this, but we could scarcely believe it till we saw for ourselves. A stranger in entering Chicago, at once notices, in some of the streets, the pavements from fourto six feet, higher than in the centre of the road where the horses go. How is this ? The town was built on too low a level ; difficulty was found in draining it ; there was not sufficient fall to take the water away. Some in- genious Yankee suggested the raising of the houses ; machinery was contrived for this j)urpose. Chicago was lifted from four to six feet, and afterwards properly drained. Standing one day with Mr. Blane talking on this subject, he pointed to a large " block " of solid masonry and said, " the whole of that was raised six feet, and all done so quietly that business was not CHICAGO. 63 suspended for a single moment ; and many of the people inside never knew at the time of the operation that they were being raised." The process of raising the houses is ingenious yet simple. The walls and the foundations are laid hare, holes are cut at short intervals, and logs are passed through, with jack- screws placed below ; levers are put into the jacks, when the men at a given signal turn the screws, and the whole mass of masonry rises imperceptibly but surely : then logs are put in, and the building rests on these logs till a stone foundation is built ; the screws are then slackened and the wood removed, and the building afterwards rests on a foundation as firm as a rock. Then, again, in Chicago, houses have been moved ; shifted backwards to widen the street as the traffic required ; and not only so, but moved and shifted from one part of the city to another. For exam[)le, if a man finds trade dull in the east end, he moves his house to the west end, or he goes north or south where trade is brisker. With us in the Old World these things are considered impossible, and when we read of them they arc thought to be " exaguerations," but in the " go-aliead city '' of Chicago, they are of frequent occurrence. The Rev. Newman Hall of London, says he saw six houses moved when in Chicago in the forenoon of one day. Truly the inventive skill of the Yankee mind is wonderful ! Chicago is a money making place. H. G. Spafford, Esq., one of the foremost business men of the city, took me through several large warehouses. "These firms," said Mr. Spafford, *' have been splendidly successful." He meant, we may infer, that they were money-making establishments. " Dollars, dollars — cents, cents I " is the one great cry of Chicago. The Rev. David Macrae remarks in his " Americans at Home," that " dollars are the voice of prayer in the morning, and the voice of thanksgiving at night." To live for money, and to be successful in making it, is considered in Chicago to be "noble living." They boast of it, as through a speaking trumpet. Not 64 AMERICA AA^D THE AMERICANS. that they are irreHgious, and infidel in their opinions ; no, they are largely a church-going people. Numbers of the large merchants of the city and the professional men, are in true sympnthy with Christian culture, and all good Christian work, yet, many hastening and hurrying to be rich, fail to carry into practical activity the ('hrisiian sentiments which they sympathise with, and so they become men of a worldly life. As it has been often remarked, Chicago is a city of many evils. Drinking, betting, swindling and gambling abound. The temptations and vices common in a large community prevail. Mr. Montgomery, an active member of the Y.M.C. A. of Chicago, in taking me through the rooms of that fine institution said, " there is much good doing here, much blessing accompanying the efforts of the young men;" but he then added, "we need our strength, the moral tone of our city is very low." He spoke as one well accjuainted with Chicago, and emphasised his words ; the testimony of I)r, Gibb and others was to the same effect. The immense business which is carried on in ('hicago, her hurry mg competition — her crowding and pushing — her "lightning" speed, and a thousand things all tend to lower and deaden her spiritual life, to sophisticate the conscience of the city, and so to darken the light of truth. '1 "o write at great length on the evils of Chicago is not our design ; nor would this be expected in a book on travels. We are ha])j)y to record that many agencies, and agencies of a powerful nature, are at work, and much good, in the spheres of religion and philanthropy, is being accomplished in the city. There are few cities in America that people are more interested in hearing and reading about than Chicago ; and no wonder since it is altogether so remarkable a city. In this chai)ter we have made reference to its drainage ; but our readers must not imagine that Chicago is in a perfect slate as to its drainage, for, looking about from place to place, we noticed some localities as yet altogether undrained. These localities are, however, new, and largely occupied by emigrants, people of CHICAGO. 65 different nationalities. Some are Indians, who, as if feeling their inferiority, draw together. And there are Norwegians, Scandinavians, Germans, French, and Irish, congregated here and there according to their national character. All over the Western settlements of America, the teeling or princi[)le of separation is very noticeable among the peoj)le. It may appear strange tliat settlers in a free country possessing independence and republican ecjuality should thus detach themselves, and gather into one place. Yet, on a moment's reflection, it is not so strange ; it must be remembered that many are Roman Catholics, and it is a fact well known that Popery and Priesthood look upon this j)rinciple as one of the prime conditions of their strength, and so encourage separation. But this way of settling in a new country is surely attended with many drawbacks and disadvantages, particularly among the poorer and lower classes of the community. It oj)erates greatly against the training and culture of the higher intellectual and moral faculties of the rising generation, which ca.i only appear and develo|) as tiie lower portion of society is brought into contact with the higher. Here lies the true genius of evolution ! Out of it comes a purpose of elevation for tb.e race, discipline, and reform ; and therefore one cannot help thinking that alter all many of the settlers in a new country miss the higher advantages of emigration. Great ingenuity combined with engineering skill is displayed in Chicago ; this will have appeared to the reader in the raising shifting, and moving of the buildings, as well as in tlie drainage of the city. In these things great engineering skill is notable, but not more notable than in others deserving mention. .Some years ago the sewerage of the city was e.xceedingly bad ; in con- se(|uence the lake water became so mixed with extraneoas matter that near the shore it was not fit nor safe for use. What was to be done ? Pure water was a necessity. After much planning and scheming a shaft was sunk a full half-mile out in the lake to the depth of 50ft. The water, this distance from the shore, and entering the shaft at such a dcjuh, is thought to be 66 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. free from all impurities. A tunnel about five feet square is made of solid masonry under the stiff blue clay bed of the lake, and through this tunnel the water comes into the city in great abundance. A powerful engine of 800 horse-})ower sends it to the top of a lofty tower, whence it flows unpolluted all over Chicago. The supjily by means of this display of engineering skill is estimated as sufficient for two milli(jns of people ; and one cannot but think that at the pre'ient ratio of increase it will n')t belong until this fast growing Western metropolis reaches that po[)ulation. We were much interested in other things which dis])lay great ingenuity and mechanical skill, viz., the " elevators " in the large granaries for warehousing the grain. The trade carried on in grain is very extensive ; the amount brought to Chicago and shipped is perhaps larger than in any other city of the world. Gigantic buildings range along the wharves. Machinery is so fitted up that when a vessel comes along the side it is emptied by a chain of buckets with the greatest rai)idity. The operation is somewhat after the princi- ple of our "river dredi^'ing-boats,'' but with a lighting sjieed |H'culiar to Chicago. The stt)rage capacity is very great : 30,000,000 bushels can be stored in the granaries. The Board of Trade enforce stringent rules in inspecting and weighing the grain, and in directing the whole trade. The storers receive certificates of (juality, but as the merchandise consists largely in speculation, it is difficult to see how an honest man can well carry on his business among so many smart adventurers. In giving an idea of things in Chicago, the provision markets and live-stock yards are likewise notable. The '' Report of Trade " shows the number of hogs brought to the markets annually to be between two and three millions. P()rk-|)ai king is one of the chief sources of wealth in the States of Illmois, Ohio, Missouri, Indiana, and Kentucky. 'I'hese places are old centres in the trade, but Chicago has far outstripped them all. We imagine, as far as food is concerned, there is little fear uf want CHICAGO. 67 among the people. "We did not care to visit the famous slau^litering establishments, but our well informed host, who was l)erfecily familiar with the jirocess, gave us a full account. ■'\\'e do things," said our friend, '"somewhat differenily from you in the < >ld Country." I had no idea of what was to follow, for at the time I had neither heard nor read anything of mechanical appliances f t slaughtering hogs. I intpiired: "Do you kill the pigs in a different way fiwm u.>?" With ein])hasis he replied, "I gu<. ss we do," and really his '"guess"' was true, fr in Chicago tlicv do not kill and cure after the stereotv])ed fashion of the Old Country. 'I'he slaughterm^-houses are large, divided into different compartments, and the pigs are killed in this way : — A trough or inclined gangway is put up, and at the killing and curing season the pigs are brought in tlocks ; as they enter the gangway they receive a blow, are killed, carried away, scraped, rut up by machinery, and on pass- ing through this process — the whole being tonverted into pork — the meat is pa< ked i'l b.irr^ 's, and at tually in the most un- believable space of a few minuies, is ready for rail or shipping ; the pork thus speedily [)repared is then despatched to its destination. The thrilling account of the (ireat I'irc that occurred in Chicago in 1S71, which reduced so large a jtortion of the city to ashes, was read over tlie whole world. The loss of life was great ; property was destroyed to the value of three millions of dollars. On an area of one mile in width by four miles in breatkh the flames swept the city. On entering Chic.igo we e\i>e»ieil to see ruins and broken down walls, as memorials marking the ravages of the great fire : but no such niemotiais are to be seen. The ruins have been rejiaired, llie broken ut as there are wrong im- pressions abroad concerning these evangelists — more especially concerning Mr. Moody, his church and work in Chicago — something in this line, gathered from the scene of his labours and from a strictly reliable source, may be of information to the reader and of more importance, as going to establish facts in some (juarters yet unknown. It was with a feeling of special interest that I visited Mr. Moody's church in Chicago, because I knew him when in this country, and esteemed him for his eminent labours and success as an evangelist. I can here testify most sine crely, that both he and Mr. Sankey are highly and very widely esteemed in America. Many stories of an amusing kind, some of them very ridiculous, are toid of these good men, which, if true, would certainly not be to their credit ; but like stories are told of every public man whose life is a force among men, and whose methods of work we are unaccustomed to. i'liis much, however, is certain : Chicago is under man) deep obligations to Messrs. Moody and Sankey for the great work which for years they carried on in that city. "All who know Mr. Moody intimately," says the Rev. Mr. Daniels, of Chicago, " sjjenk of him in the highest terms of respect." "He is a true man," Mr. Daniels MR. MOODY, THE EVANGELIST. 79 adds, *' in favoor with all classes of the community." H. G. Spafford, Esq., a leading advocate, a gentleman highly respected and of much influence, speaking to me of Mr. Moody and his work in Chicago, said : " He is a good man, a lover of truth, and very honourable. His one great aim is to save men, and so advance the cause and kingdom of Christ." Mr. Moody's life motto has been, since he began his Christian efforts, the great maxim of Ciiristianity, *' None of us liveth to himself." On coming, a young man, from Boston to Chicago to push his way in the world, he joined Plymouth Congregational Church, of which the Rev. Mr. Roy was minister ; and knowing that, as a member of the Christian Church, work was to be done, not for him, but by him, he set about it, and in this way : — He took four pews, filled them with young men, and Sunday after Sunday kept them full — a good beginning in the way of Christian usefulness. It is a kind of work this which many of our young men might do — a work which would go far to solve that most anxious " non-cl ach going " problem in our large cities ; and though not a work particularly popular among young men, yet a work which, if undertaken in a Christian spirit, would bring its own reward. It was long, however, until Mr. Moody started a Mission of his own. Renting a deserted saloon in a destitute part of the city, he started a Mission school and a Sunday evening meeting. On week nights, after business hours, he visited the district around the saloon till in this way by individual effort he filled both his school and evening meeting with the poorest of the poor whom he wanted to reach. This kind of work he found for a time very difficult, but he persevered in it; and with much prayer and tenderness of heart he won the afiectioni. of the poor and soon a large number gathered Sunday after Sunday to hear the young man, " the missionary enthusiast ' as he was called. Some of the Christians in Chicago sympathised with his Mission, encouraged him, and became his assistants in the work. To this day they have the fullest confidence in Mr. Moody and 8o AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. are proud to say of him, as was said of another thousands of years ago, " In every work that he began for the Lord, he did it with all his heart and prospered." The Mission there became known as a successful institution, and by and by it was necessary to form a mission church. In 1S63 a building was erected in Illinois Street, capable of accommodating 1300 ])eople, a church was organised, after the congregational order, office-bearers were appointed, and Mr. Moody became a poiiular man. In this way a large impulse was given to his zealous labour. The Americans are fond of having mottoes and scripture texts ill their halls, Sunday schools, and places of religious meeting. The walls of Mr. Moody's first church were profusely ornamented with mottoes and texts such as '' God is love," " Have faith in God," " Pray without ceasing," etc. And in this church mission work was carried on, on a large scale, till the great fire that swept over Chicago destroyed the building. Soon another church was erected, a very handsome, capacious place of meeting, and fitted up with church halls, class rooms, and every accommodation. The building is 120 feet by 100 feef. It has an upi)er and lower floor. The upper floor is where the church services are conducted. This part of ihe building contains an auditorium with galleries all round ; the seats are arranged in circular fc^rni, with capacity for holding 2,500 sitters. The building has double windows with a sky-light, tliirty six feet in diameter ; the lower part has a large hall, and nine rooms for classes, committees, and other church purposes. We have to thank Mr Hitchcook, the worthy superintendent of the Sabbath school, for a sight of the church and for much information with regard to tbeir mission work. Standing in one of the rooms I asked him, "Can you tell us the real secret of Mr. Moody's success?" He replied, "I might mention several things, but I cannot better cxi)ress the secret of his success than by saying, he icorks very /uird, and he hnon's God and trusts I/ini.^^ By all who know Mr. Moody, these words will be acknowledged MR. MOODY, THE EVANGELIST. 8l as true. But he ha> certain qualifications as a sjjcaker, certain intuitions of mind that, go where he may, will ever secure him an audience. He is an admirable manager of men, a brilliant leader, a capital organiser, and much in favour with the common people. He knows their thoughts, speaks in their language, and draws his illustrations largely from their every day life experience; his one book is the Bible, the book which beyond all books he knows, and giving (lospcl addresses, its truths with an apt anecdote came forcibly to his mind. Add to ail this, health, strength, and cheerful disposition, Mr. Sankey's fine hearty singing, and you have the elements of his power, the secret of his great success. "But why does not Mr. Moody," it is asked, "remain in his own church and labour, instead of wandering over the world?" His strength, and he knows it, is not in remaining in one place, 'uut in moving about, stirring up others to zealous work, diffusing the materials wliich an evangelist gathers in going abroad. But though Mr. Moody dot.s not remain in Chicago, as the minister of the fine church known by his name, others are there ins|)ired with a like spirit, carrying on the Mission. All the meml)ers of the church have some cinirch-work given them to do. " But what of those who do nothing? Such people, we imagine, would .lot long remain in this church. They would feel them- selves in the wrong i>lace, and would seek a (juieter ministry. 'I'here are meetings held in the church or some of the h.ills almost every night. Sometimes tlree or four meetings of a different kind arc going on in separate rooms, tiie same night, at the s.imc hour. The church motto is. " To every man liis work." riie people here really love such work; they arc trained to it : and the amount of good which they accomplish, even though many of them be poor, is very wonderful. lUit they are not all poor. Some of them are amongst the best citizens of Chicago — wealthy, cultivated, influential men. The peculiar circumstances of the church have been found to develop the 82 AMERICA AXD THE AMERICANS. gifts of the brethren, and to draw Christian workers from all classes of society. There is a large band of earnest young men in Christian fellowship called " The \'okefellows Band." 1"heir duty is to go into tlic streets an hour before the ordinary church services, and to distribute tracts and give invitations to the meetings. It cannot be a very comfortable thing to remain long in the district a non-church goer. As an effective means of drawing the members of the church together, monthly " sociables " are held, which mean a cup of tea, friendly conversation, addressess, recitations, singing, and some good music. In the event of any member not being at the mecling, some one makes it his duty to call "right off," as they say, to know the reason of absen'^e. It has ])een remarked by persons not in sympathy with Mr. Moody, that he built a large church in Chicago and left it heavily burdened witli debt. Such is not the case. The church was free of debt before it was dedicated, as Mr. Spafford assured us when we were tliere. "Mr. Moody." he said, "al)hors debt on a l)uilding reared to the worship of the .Mmighty.'' No debt, not a cent, is there on the Chicago Avenue Church. The dedication services were conducted by Dr. I'rooks, St. Louis, wlio preached from the text, "In whom all the buikling fitly framed together growth into an holy temple in the Lord." The (^hurch cost over 67,000 dollars, or something like ^14,000 sterling, a handsome sinn for a mission clnircbi. 'I'lic dedic.Ttion hymn, sung to tiie tune Dii/:c Sfn\t, reads — " Our F.itlicr, (lod, lltcrn;)! ( )nc, And Thou, the liviiitj Curncr-^tonc, And Holy Spirit, one and three, Wc dcdic.ite thi.>* house to Tlicc. Take for Thine own. and write in power Thy name on wall and shaft and tower ; And make it. I>y the ble-^inL;; i;iveii, A house ol (Jod— a gate of Heaven. MK. MOODY, THE EVANGELIST. S3 Here may Thine honour dwell, O Lord ! Here power attend the spoken word ! Here saints be fed — here sinners find The Lamb who suffered for mankind ! Here may there rise jirevailin^ prayer — Here praises ring — here vani.~h care — Hera trembling ones lay down their fears, And bathe a Saviour's feet with tears. And here, though some around should sleep, Helj) us true watch and ward to keep, Waiting with prayer the midnight cry, ' liehuld the Dridegroum drawelh nigh !' So Lord, at la.-t, may every one Who here profi.>sed to love Thy Son, lie found among the host that .stands Within the * house not made with hands." " Such is a brief notice of Mr. Moody, the American Evangelist, and liis cluirch in Cliicago. lie is a great man: hut great as his work is, he is not held, as a Christian teacher, in high, admiration by .11. What teacher or [Jiiblic man really is ? The late Lord Fieaconsfield is reported to have said "Mans position is full of miscoiiceptions--a mistinderslanding to those who stand at a distance ; when a cliance kindness is paid there is often in the same heart, towards him, a mingling of pity." As to the substance of Mr. Moody's teaching, he lias a definite belief, P. positive theology. "Accept Christ," he constantly .says, "and everything else is included." This teaching is urged by Mr. Moody, not so much in the v,ay of doctrine, as the way or course of our souls life. It is real in his hands, and administered by him it becomes, as a matter of fact, real to thousands upon thousands, who testify that they have received saving good from his preaching. Whetlier, therefore, we agree with Mr. Moody's doctrine, anil adnnre him (^r otherwise, to accomplish the work that he has done in Europe, say nothing of America, is to con- 84 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. stitute him, beyond question, an able, famous evangelist, " a great benefactor of the community." But after all, in the growth and development of religion, or in the life that is eternal within the soul, the teaching of an evangelist, however highly we value it, is but elementary. It is very desirable ; indeed, in the present state of the world, it is essential ; and it is everywhere recognised by the church ; yet it is only elementary. The whole task of building up remains to be done. Now, what is the fact? Is it not that too many evangelists, instead of preaching and persuading men to love their neighbour and be upright and faithful, as a means of soul blessing, go on reiterating the "one thing," until it becomes Ti'liollx !>tia)ii)iii/iss iviif iiuiiifeyestitii;? There is nothing that preachers should guard more against than the religious phrases and hollow statements now abroad and often used, though not tl-.e outcome of high character, thought, and genuine faith. Of Mr. Moody and his companion, Mr. Sankey, and of men like them, in the real secret of a high Christian life, with the rare faculty of evangelistic labours, the church cannot have too many. On the other hand, of men of much speech, meaningless phrases, who, da/zled by Mr. Moody's success, set themselves to imitate his methods and reiterate his cry, lacking his high quali- fications and marvellous intuitions, we cannot have too few. ''One is your Master, even Christ.' But, we fear, in making these remarks, that we may be going beside and beyond our place without being aware of it. 'I'here are spiritual moods ditiiicult to account for, and frequently the deeper thoughts of the " innvjst life" utter themselves, — not here, however, we venture to hope, so much in the way of preaching, as of that natural observation which comes to mankind, and which is to all an experience in the thought and expansion of the human .spirit. CHAPTER IX. THE PRAIRIES—SPRINGFIELD— ABRAHAM LINCOLN— THE MISSISSIPPI. \"\ THILE in Chicago, we had an invitation to the town of Milwaukee, in the State of Wisconsin, to take part in a large Christian Convention of Foreign Missions. Before this visit to the Far West, we thought that Milwaukee was only a small rustic town, a place " beginning to be," but we found our mistake. Milwaukee is a handsome city, larger than Aberdeen ; a city of wide streets, of splendid buildings, of large industries, evidently a residential town of the wealthy, the fashionable, and well-to-do. Driving in the more fashionable thoroughfares seems to be very common in Milwaukee among the ladies — in- deed, it is so all over America and much more common than in Edinburgh, London, or Paris. In the Public Parks carriages of all kinds, and driven by ladies, swarm. Every lady in America must have a horse and a carriage, and likes driving herself. On leaving Chicago our way of travel lay westward ; so bidd- ing adieu to those kind, warm-hearted friends whose accjuaint- ances we had made while in the city, we booked for Sprmgfield by the Great St. Louis Railway. Punctually at the appointed time, the train gave signal, moved from the station, and we were again on another stage of the journey. Railway journeying in America is much more plensant than in Europe. The rail- way cars are constructed on a different plan from our English carriages. The cars are long, all the seats face the engine, and are arranged in rows of two, finely cushioned on each side ; there is a passage along the middle, and doors open at each end, and an iron platform with handrail over the coupling of the 86 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. cars allows the passenger to walk comfortably from one end of a train to the other. Passing three miles of lumber wharves, which line the Chicago river, we came into the productive, rich, and extensive plains of Illinois. A smart-looking, well-informed " true-born " Ameri- can gentleman, as he called himself, sat by our side. We very soon became acquainted ; the Americans are free with a stranger, and enter freely into conversation. We cannot ventur to de- scribe minutely what passed, but I remember well that I had scores of questions to ask about the prairies — questioiis concern- ing the plains, the rivers, the swamps, the forests, the roads, etc., and questions relating to the people, education, schools, churches, and I know not what. At first, if we judge rightly, our American friend felt incurious, and seemed quite astonished at our string of questions, and at our interest in the prairies. " I guess," said he, smiling at me, " your intention is to settle here." But when we assured him that ■ e were simply on a tour through his country, anxious to see it and gain facts concerning it, he then treated our questions with gravity, and gave us much information on prairie life. There is nothing particularly attractive as to scenery on the Great St. Louis Line. The features of the prairies of Illinois are for miles unbroken or unmarked. The country is of a level surface; the land is now largely under cultivation. At intervals we passed through thinly inhabited districts, where the fields were small and the land scarcely broken from its virgin condi- tion. Here and there were seen clumps of timber, patches of forest, meadows, pieces of grass, and " shanties," or wooden erections, which looked in the distance like as many large boxes placed on the ground. Each of the prairie districts has its own common school, its own Sunday school, and place of worship. The day-schools of America are dependent for their maintenance on a system of taxation, and the churches are supported by voluntary contribu- tions. In ihe outlying districts the mmisturs are badly paid, THE PRAIRIES. 87 and as a result it is no strange thing to hear sometimes of self- denying, hard-working, noble men compelled to "ring in," and go and try another sphere of labour. Speaking of the schools and churches of these new outlying prairie districts, Whittier's lines come to mind, when he said : — " We cross the prairie, as of old The pilgrims crossed the sea, To make the West, as they the East, The homestead of the free ! We go to plant our common schools On distant prairie swells, And give the Sabbaths of the wild The music of the bells." The process of cultivating the prairie land is this : — It is ploughed in sutnmer, left fallow during winter, in the spring of the following year it is sown. In some parts the soil is so rich and so productive, that it requires no manure of any sort for a succession of years, and farmers have excellent crops. Like every ether commodity, the price of land is very much higher than it used to be. Twenty-five or thirty years ago it was bought for three or four shillings an acre, a dollar was a fair figure ; now it costs from three to four pounds sterling ; if culti- vated, the price per acre is ^\o or more. Industrious, hard- working men, who have been in the prairies for some time, have made in many cases a modest fortune, and are to-day the happy lords of their own domains. About one hundred and thirty miles south-west of Chicago, we passed Bloomington, a city of 24,000 inhabitants, with a university, a large nc-mal seminary, and several iiigh-class schools. It was interesting to hear this university, its professors, and Its work, discussed by two fellow travellers who sat close behind in the car. One spoke from personal knowledge of the university and its teaching. The professors, said he, were highly able, scholarly men, doing much good. The other showed his antipathy to ail such institutions by declaring that if he had his 88 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. way he would have them "blown into fragments ! "' This some- what tragic remark seemed "a crusher"; it so paralysed the conversation that nothing more was said on the topic. Fifty miles further west we reached Springfield, the capital of the State of Illinois. It has a population of about 25,000, and is the commercial centre of a large agricultural trading district. The town is regularly and effectively laid out, in broad streets, in pavements partly wooden and partly stone, fine gardens, elegant houses, and some delightfully pleasant walks. It has several imposing churches, a good university, and a number of fine banks and " stores." Among American cities, Springfield attracts the attention of travellers to the States interested in the history of the country. It was here where the great and good Abraham Lincoln resided, and practised as a barrister, when he was elected to fill the pre- sident's chair. The house he occupied is an unpretending wooden structure in one of the thoroughfares. There are four small rooms on the basement ; the upper flat is but a half storey. This incident is told in America : — When Lincoln was nominated president, Mrs. Lincoln wished the upper storey of the house raised. He declined ; the house was good enough. On one occasion, however, when Lincoln was from home a ^'ew weeks, his wife took the opportunity of carrying out her wishes ; on re- turning he was taken by surprise, for he scarcely knew his own house, it had been so much improved. Abraham Lincoln lies very near the heart of all America. The people are everywhere proud to speak of him, and justly so, for he was altogether an illustrious, and in many ways, a remark- able man. The reader may be interested in a few leading facts of hi- life, connected with his Springfield home. He was born in Kentucky in 1809 ; his parents were poor ; his father emigrated to Indiana, where he cleared soi le land, and built a log-house. As Abraham grew up, he was required to assist his father, and on this account his entire schooling did not exceed more than ABRAHAM LINCOLN. S9 one year ; but he was very fond of books, and read everything he could lay his hands upon. In 1830 his parents removed from Indiana to Illinois, Here he helped his father to plough and cultivate the land. He grew very tall, strong, and healthy. At the age of twenty he stood six feet four inches. Guarding against the prevalent evil of the age, he abstained from all intoxicating li(iuors ; before the world Lincoln grew up a young man whose moral character was with- out a stain. A\'e may note, by the way, what oxygen, food, and water can do for young men ! Afte:- assisting his father for a time on the farm, Lincoln left home "to seek his fortune in life." At fust he hired himself as a labourer to the neighbouring farmers ; then he got a situation as clerk in a general "store." This was a step upward. In his new situation he began to feel the want of a good education, and at once gave his attention to luiglish Grammar, the con- struction of the English language, and to the study of more solid useful books. It is said he knew Shakesi)eare well, and could repeat the whole of Burns. He had his difficulties as to educa- tion, but he persevered with his studies, and gradually rose step by ste[) in the world, till he became one of i.\merica's great men. In 1834 he was elected to the Illinois Legislature. At tliis time he assisted a land surveyor, and, becoming increasingly studious, he now spent his leisure hours in studying law. In 1836 he was admitted to the bar, and removed to S[)ring- field, where he acquired reputation as a trustworthy man, a good citizen, an accurate lawyer, and an able pleader. As illustrative of his character as a lawyer, he would never undertake a case at law which did not seem to him to be just. If misled by fair and false pretences, as soon as he found it out, he at once gave up the suit, and would plead no more, even when he would have gained the case. Another thing to be noticed, he was always ready to help a poor client. Lawyers and barristers som.etimes shrink from the poor man's case — Abraham Lincoln never. 90 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. In 1842, in his thirty-third year, he married. In 1846 he was elected member of Congress. He had studied American affairs closely, and was always found on the side of truth and freedom ; he spoke and voted against slavery in every form, ever seeking the national progress, always identifying himself with the best interests of tlie people. In i860, at a convention held in Chicago, he was nominated for the presidency ; there were other three candidates, but Lincoln received a majority of votes. At once a telegram was sent to him at Springfield ; he was in the newspaper office when the message arrived ; he rose, put the telegram into his pocket, and remarked playfully as he left the room, " There is a little woman at home interested in this matter." The news spread. At night a large number of friends and citizens gathered round his house, and gave, " Three cheers for Abraham Lincoln, next President of the United States." It was an exciting scene; but Lincoln was in no way elated. He came to the door, bowed his head, and said, " There are times which sometimes come to a man, when it is his duty to be silent; that time has now come for me." The next day an official committee came to acquaint Lincoln of his nomination ; some of his Springfield friends, anticipating this official visit, who, knowing his habits of abstinence, sent him sundry wines to entertain his visitors. How did Lincoln act ? This must have been a moment more trying than had ever occurred in his history before. His decision and strength of character were equal to the trial. He re^^urned the gift with sincere thanks, and, even u[)on this nost important occasion, offered no stimulants to his guests. On the 4th March, 1861, Lincoln took his seat in the Presi- dent's chair. It was an exalted position; but it n;ver changed his honest, straightforward, unpretending manner of life. He was a true, high-princi|)led niaw, simple-minded, unfaltering in his adherence to right, the friend of the poor, and warmly devoted to the best and highest inte .s of his great country. ABRAHAM LINCOLN. 91 Such are a few of the leading events of Lincc'n s hfe, as con- nected with the city of S[)ringfield. His memoir says he was a Christian man. He had Christian parents. Speaking of his parents, we find him saying, "All I am or expect to be, I owe to my mother; blessings on her memory." He was exceedingly fond of children. As he went from place to place, and from city to city, he often made his way to the Sunday School and ad- dressed the young. He believed in Sunday Schools, as one of the great forces which go to make a people great and strong, and having faith in the ultimate triumph of good, it gave him pleasure, in a variety of ways, to assist the spread of truth wherever he went. If, at the death of Al)rahani Lincoln by the hand of an assassin, the whole continent of America was thrilled by the sad inteUJgence, our readers may imagine, better than we can • x; ress, the dreadful shock which S[)ringfield received when the mournful tidings reached the city. The news sent a thrill of horror through the town ; tremblings were felt in every heart ; the people, be- wailing their loss, could only say in broken accents, " Poor Lincoln is no more 1" All the shops and "stores" were closed, and black crape hung out on the sides, doors, and windows of houses. The tide of grief flowed high, and speedily the wide Atlantic rolled the sad tidings to our shores; Europe bowed her head in sorrow, and shared in sympathy with the multitudes of bereaved, outbursting, lamenting hearts. The people of Springfield, with whom Lincoln had been so closely associated, begged to have his body ; in the cemetery, two miles from the town, may be seen the tomb of the martyred President, on which is the simple, but never-to-be-forgotten word, *' LINCOLN." On account of this great and good man's tomb, S[)riiigfield will have an immortal name in the United States of America, and will ever remain a place of attraction to travellers from distant shores. "The memory of the just is blessed." ^Lany visitors to the cemetery of Springfield, standing by the grave of Lincoln, away from the public eye, have dropped 92 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. honest tears of sorrow on his tomb, and paid heartfelt homage to his sacred dust. "The righteous shall be in everlasting re- membrance." And to this Heaven is pledged. Immortality begins here ; and they who, like Lincoln, persevere building up their lives in goodness and truth, live and expand in another and fairer world. Our travels are still westward. We leave Springfield and start for the city St. Louis, on the Mississippi River. When we arrive we are nearly half-way to California. According to ideas of distance at home, this seems a long and formidable journey, but in America, where everything is on such a large scale, it is com- mon enough. The day v.'as beautifully clear; a slight mist had overhung the sky the evening before, but towards daybreak it cleared away, and the morning was bright and lovely. I do not remember anything of interest to note until we reached the town of Alton. It was autumn : we passed through broad acres and fertile fields, where the people were busily engaged harvesting the fruits of the season. It was a charming day — a cloudless sky was overhead, and though the verdure of sum- mer had begun to fade, the leaves were beautifully tinted with their autumnal hue. The climate in this western district is most genial, perhaps a little hot in summer, but during the autumn season very delightful. The cheerful song of birds added specially to the enjoyment of the scene. On reaching Alton we were curiously struck with the site and general appearance of the town. It is situated at the junction of the Chicago and Indianapolis Railway to St. Louis, on a lime- stone bluff, overhanging the eastern side of the Mississippi. The houses are of red stone ; they present a strange appearance on the side of the hill, and impress one oddly enough, "like," as we have read somewhere, "as many flies clinging to a precipitous rock." The population in Alton is about 22,000. The town is favourably situated for trading and commercial purposes, but its progress has not been so marked as in tiie case of many Ameri- can cities. Travellers have premised not a little on the origin THE MISSISSIPPI. 93 of the name. It may be of Scotch etymology, suggested at first by a settler from the old country, and named Alton from auld toon ; or it may be from the Latin adjective altiis^ which means iiigh. At all events Alton is a high town, and altogether peculiar in its appearance. One cannot soon forget the impression it makes on the mind on entering it for the first time by the Chicago line. But the hour to start for St. Louis is up. " All aboard," on we go, though at a little slower rate than in the old country. At this stage of our travels, our European eyes were strained to look on the great Mississippi River. We confess to a feeling of dis- appointment. The water of the Mississii)pi has a foul, impure, muddy appearance. The banks are low, bare of heaiihy trees, and the scenery tame and uninteresting. But generally speaking this is characteristic of American landscape. All over that great country, where I travelled, the scenery is tlat. tame, monotonous, except among the Alleghany Mountains, and there the scenery is something grand. There is but little variety compared with our scenery in P'urope. Travelling in the New World, we miss the hills and dales of the Old Country, the mediaeval castle, the snug comfortable cottage by the way side, and the massive stone man- sion, with its garden, lawn, shrubs, and trees. No doubt America is but young ; as time rolls on it will grow in the things that con- fer beauty and variety on the general landscape of a country. The Mississippi River, including the Missouri, is of large dimensions. Its name, as interpreted from the Indians, means "The Father of Waters." It is the longest river in the world, actually flowing in its course upwards of 4,500 miles, a dis- tance of nearly as far again as from (keat Britain to America. It forms a portion of the boundaries of ten States, has 1,500 navigable branches, and drains an area of nearly one million and a half square miles. The Americans speak proudly of their big country, and when wc reflect on the si/e of its cities, its plains, and rivers, it is not much to be wondered at. America is indeed a great place, and beyond all comprehension when $4 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. taken in connection with the hopes which it kindles in the American heart. ''But see!" says a traveller, interesting me in the scenes of the West, " we are nearing St. Louis." The train is now cross- ing the great suspension bridge which spans the Mississippi River. The bridge is an immense structure. The citizens of St. Louis are proud of it, and justly so ; it stands unrivalled as a river bridge in the world. Great difficulty was found in con- structing it ; in length it is fully a mile ; the central piers on vhich it is laid are sunk to a depth of over loo feet below the surface of the water, and rise above to the height of 50 feet, so as not to hinder the navigation of the river. The bridge is high enough to admit of llie largest vessels passing under it. It has two stf evs- ihe lower for the railways, and the upper for vehicles and foot passengers — and is altogether a marvellous ])iece of skilful engineering, which not long since would have been pronounced impossible. J>ut what can the ingenuity of the Americans not achieve? All who have travelled "'n the United States will at once acknowledge that we cannot too highly magnify their wonderful engineering ability and inventive skill. CHAPTER X. S'J\ LOUIS—ITS VARIOUS SIGHTS AND IXCiDlt.NTS—TIIE JOURNEY TO CINCINNATI. „ /^UR first business in St. Louis was to find our way to a hotel ^-^^ to regale ourselves with a good wash and a little refresh- ment. Speedily we stroll into the streets. The town is all in a bustle. Great numbers of people hurry hither and thither. Calling on a friend, to whom we had a letter of introduction, we remarked, "St. Louis is a large town."' "A large town!" re- plied he, seemingly not flattered with the remark ; " it is the great metropolis of the west." And truly we had not been long in St. Louis till we found it really a great city, more ancient, and in some respects more interesting, than its rival Chicago. It has a population of nearly 600,000. The streets are wide, regularly laid out, running parallel to the river, and crossed by avenues at right angles. In the old French part of St. Louis, the streets are narrow and crooked, some of the houses are quaint erections of wood, with high garret windows. Dickens writes amusingly in his " American Notes " on these old tenements. He says, " they are lop-sided with age, and with their heads askew, they look as if they were grimacing in astonishment at the American imjjrovements." But since Uickens visited St. Louis, things have wonderfully improved, even in the old French part of the town. Among its public buildings are a City Hall, Court-House, Custom-House, Exchange, two Hospitals, an arsenal, a fine library, several banks, and several very large hotels. There is a Cathedral, and there are some fine Churches, of different denominations. 96 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. The various branches of its extensive traffic are in lumber, flour, cotton, fur, oil, sugar, iron, provisions, &c. ; in fact, a variety of everything necessary. The steamboats, all with their curious stern-paddles, line the quays, and are seen in shoals for fully a mile and a half About one third of the inhabitants of St. Louis are Germans. With this class Sunday is not observed. Their shops are open ; they trade as on other days of the week, spending their spare time in public parks, many of them in drinking saloons. Llost of the Germans hold what are called "rationalistic views," and, therefore, scarcely sensible to religious impression. There are numbers of Unitarians here, and Roman Catholicism largely j)revails. This is partly accounted for from the fact that the early French settlers in the valley of the Mississippi were Roman Catholics, but partly also from the accumulation of wealth, which has come to them from property. ■ To some parts in the west, the Irish have come in large numbers, and not by any means the best class of Irish. In these districts "priestism" has gained ground. In St. Louis there are numbers of Scotch people, and they have all the name of being industrious and [)ushing. Some of them are very prosperous. A young gentle- man who, less than twenty years ago, served his apprenticeship to the drapery business in Glasgow, and went out to St. Louis, has now one of the largest "stores" in the city, and lias, through good character and perseverance, attained to a position of great honour as a citizen. To this gentleman we were introduced. In conversation, we inquired at him who are the best class of men to emigrate west ? His prompt reply was, "Not your idle clerks and lazy shopkeepers, but the hard-working, industrious man of any trade or profession who means to succeed."' At a certain house in St. Louis, the residence of a retired merchant, we had occasion to call one evening. In a large, well-furnished room sat the old gentleman, like a squire of olden time, well pleased with himself and his beautiful surroundings. \Ve had not been very long in the room when there came in a ST. Lor/s. 97 handsome young maiden, accompanied b}' a fine-looking elderly lady, her mother or aunt, as we supposed. At all events, we were hospitably entertained, and made to feel quite at home. At one side of the room stood a handsome piano of dark colour, like finely polished ebony. Through the evening the old lady asked if we were fond of music and singing. " It would be delightful to have some music and singing," I remarked. The young lady then played some beautiful pieces, and with a finely cultured voice sang several of our Scotch songs with such a fine effect as made me feel as if spending the evening in a Highland home. " How beauHfully the young lady sings our songs,"' I observed again and again, addressing myself to the old gentleman. But no reply. He had fallen asleep. Waking up from his doze, he said, "Ves, she sings well, there's nothing I like better than a good Scotch song, but, sir, I must apologise to you, for I have surely been asleep." I had pleasure in visiting some of the day-schools of St. Louis. These are numerous and good; the branches of education suited for what we may call every-day life career are well taught. There are two Universities, and a Normal Seminary. Many of the young receive a good education. But here it is not the young man who has the best education who is most looked after, and receives the highest salary. In St. Louis, as in Chicago, the cry is, " Dollars, dollars, cents, cents." As the Rev. I). Macrae has observed, " It is the man v.'ho can reckon quickly, raise stock, run a store, that is of most importance in St. Louis." The two cities, Chicago and St. Louis, are commercially in keen competi- tion ; in both, the citizens hasten to be rich ; and, as can be easily perceived, "a high education" where studies offer no facili- ties in this direction, is of little account with the majority of people. The demand of America is for practical knowledge. The large salaries draw her youths sooner into industrial activity than in the Old Country ; and we may add, from the openings young men have in America as well as from the immense size of the country, life out there is of more business value than with us. 7 98 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. But we are sorry that we cannot bear very high testunony as to the state of religion among the young men in the " great metro- polis of the west. About the time of our visit " a spiritual dead- ness " appeared to have settled on the city. " Among a few young men," said Dr. Brooks, " you may meet with an earnest Christianity, but among many, religion is, I fear, but a name." Cities and towns everywhere in America are famed for their Y. M. C. Associations, and for the amount of good work in con- nection with these Associations. But to our astonishment we found no such institution existing in the famous city of St. Louis. We were informed that some years ago an effort was made in this direction, but men of all views and shades of opinion had been admitted members ; in carrying on the work doctrinal dif- ferences arose, and the whole thing fell through. The friend who gave us this information added, "We must now wait till Messrs. Moody and Sankey visit us to give an impulse to Christian people before anything can be done. We heartily acknowledge the good Mr. Moody has done in advocating Y. M. C. A. work, but the wisdom of waiting until he might visit the city did not commend itself to our mind. We ventured respectfully to say, "Commence at once;" and we hope by this time Christian friends of St. Louis have promoted a scheme to get a building to afford accommoda- tion for young, doing association work in this, the largest or second largest city of the Western States. At this stage in our travels we might linger and give many inter- esting particulars on influx, progress, and civilization respectmg the western territories of America, but having indicated general, though brief, impressions of the prairies, the Mississippi River, and the " Great Metropolis," we now turn south-west en route for the city of Cincinnati. In turning our course from the far west we had brought to mind the prophetic words of Bishop Berkeley. Long ago, v,-hen the settlements of America formed but a narrow fringe upon the eastern coast, this bishop, standing on the high tower of prophecy at one of the eastern gates of the New Country, and viewing her vast domains, uttered these prophetic words : — THE JOURNF. V TO C INC INN A TI. 99 •' Westward the course of empire takes its way The Tour first acts already past ; A fifth shall end the drama with the day Time'i noblest offspring is the last." It is a century and a half since these lines of hopeful words were uttered ; whether Berkeley's hope be fulfilled in the highest interests of humanity, we may not hastily say. But noting the enormous developments of America, of one thing we may be certain, that in her material prosperity she is truly "Time's noblest offspring," and we will add, a boundless inheritance is lying " westward," waiting our aspiring young men who coinplain that there is no room for them to rise or succeed in this country. The journey from St. Louis to Cincinnati may be made either by steamer or by rail. Travellers who have leisure often choose a few days' pleasant sailing on the Ohio River. But for several reasons we prefer "a railway run." This is another long journey; but without any special concern we at once set out for the depot — we say depot, for the Americans never speak oi a railway statioti. On our way we remember witnessing a sunset of exquisite beauty. It was of marvellous splendour. P'ascinated with its magnificence, we lingered gazing on the scene. It would be difficult to exag- gerate its great glory. It was on a Friday evening ; the day had been lovely; a broad expanse stretched to the verge of the hori- zon, beautifully tinged and tinted with a rich reddish colouring. As we gazed on the scene, the setting sun went down that lovely evening, pouring streams of golden light into the valley, leaving an impression on our mind never to be forgotten. Perhaps America contains nothing finer to the eve of a traveller from the Old Country than her lovely sunsets ; their exquisite beauty sur- passes all description; they are as glimpses of "the golden gates" shining into view. We are now at the depot. At the office we purchase a ticket, or rather a series of tickets all printed on the same slip, and feeling rather fatigued we feel inclined to rest for the night. An extra dollar or two secures a comfortable curtain-bed in a hand- loo AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. some sleeping-car. We enter in good time. The car soon gets as full as it can be ; yet there was no crov.-ding, no pushing, no crushing, no annoyance of any kind, such as is often experienced at a railway station at home. The time for the locomotive to start is up, and suddenly a voice outside cries, " All aboard ; " in a moment or two, without any premonitory sound of whistle or bell, the long well-filled train moves away, leaving behind the city of St. Louis, sitting like a cjueen on the banks of the " Great Father of Waters,"' robed in the deepening shadows of night, but brilliant with those innumerable radiances that sparkle and glimmer so beautifully in the darkness of eve when the veil of light is just withdrawn. Soon, however, all is lost to view, and nothing is seen save the car within and its living freight. The car is of large dimen- sions, not inaptly called a " silver palace car " ; it is handsome outside, while within it is well carpeted, richly cushioned, taste- fully ornamented. The windows are of double plate-glass, with handsome hangings, and the rails shining in finely polished silver plate ; the roof is lofty and airy ; the berths are upper and lower as in a first-class steamship ; the beds, clothes, and fittings are scrupulously clean ; we were all well attended to by a " darkey," who was very attentive and obliging. At each end of the car is a mirror, a lavatory, a fountain with plenty of good water, and a stove which keeps up a genial temperature through the night. Everything is first-class, beautifully fitted up, calculated to please, and to make travelling a real luxury. But, after all, it is not so much the fineness and beauty of the carriage, as the company you have, that makes railway travelling interesting and memorable. We look about us ; our fellow-travellers are well- dressed, intelligent looking, courteous, agreeable, and all that one could wish. The incident that lingers most vividly in my mind is to the following effect : — Jm.mediately before me sat two of our loqua- cious transatlantic cousins, who, v.ith a sharp nasal tone, and in the ordinary voice, discussed all manner of things. At first we THE JOURNEY TO CINCINNATI. loi telt inclined to be annoyed, as the conversation to strangers was not easily understood. By-and-by the subject of elementary education in the common schools of the country became the toj)ic in turn. I remember how the two Yankees became quite animated, and probably imagining that we were in some way or other connected with schools, made several pertinent criticisms on a policy of training, which in their estimation was " not the thing to produce a race fit for the country." These sharp edu- cational apologists advocated drawing in " the schools," and a more thorough business training for boys, sewing and better household training for girls; "for," said one of the two, " mul- titudes go into the world without that practical knowledge of things which is, I guess, the want of these progressive times." The conversation became interesting, and affords additional proof of what was touched upon in a previous cliapter. Inci- dentally we must here record our praise to Mrs. Henry Ward Beecher for her valuable household directions that some time ago appeared in Tlie Christian Uiuon, kindly sent us by one of the members of Plymouth Church, Brooklyn. But the locomotive rolls on ; we go to bed ; our repose is somewhat disturbed by the stopping of the train at the different stations on the line, where passengers drop in and out almost constantly the whole night, indicating by the way that the Americans are great travellers, teaching us in " these progressive times " to use night as well as day in the attainment of likely and possible ends in life. Nevertheless, we get fairly rested, and between thinking, dosing, sleei)ing, and dreaming the hours of night pass away. Morning breaks, and soon the genial beams of a rising October sun shine pleasantly in upon us. Roused by the intelligence that Cincinnati is not far distant, we rub our eyes, stretch our limbs, but, like Dr. Talmage, have to think once or twice before we jump to our feet and dress. Dressing is not so comfortable in a " berth-bed," the major part of our toilet w-e defer till we go to the dressing-room at the end of the car. To understand this and other peculiarities of railway travel- 102 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. ling, it is necessary to remember that the cars are not divided into compartments, but open from end to end like a long nairow room, with a passage in the middle and sofa seats on either side. The train after a night's run has arrived in the Cincinnati depot. From thence by a street car we proceed to one of splendid hotels for which America is so famed. Passing along the streets we heard some sweet sounding bell ringing a joyous peal, as if giving us a gladsome welcome to the city of Cincinnati, the commercial capital of the State of Ohio. In the hotel I found myself seated at the breakfast table with a gentleman who had come from St. Louis by the same train. His finely cut features and eyes of in- tellectual grey spoke promptitude and perseverance. He had recently been to the famous jManmoth^Cave. " I cannot," he said, " describe it. The most graphic description would fail to convey the faintest idea of its surpassing mystery and grandeur." It was not, however, very easy for us to arrange a visit to this wonderful cave. We regretted this, as we were much interested in what the gentleman told us of this, "the mightiest phenomena that ever impressed his mind." CHAPTER XL CINCINNATI— CHARACTERISTICS, SCENES, AND SOCIAL LIFE. A FTER breakfast and the writing of one or two letters, we went into the street and took cars on several different routes, to get, first of all, a general view of Cincinnati. " Here is another great city," I remarked. In extent, in industry, character, and the march of things, Cincinnati is a striking con- trast to what we had been accustomed to imagine. The city is one of the principal and most interesting cities of the United States, It is situated on sloping ground on the right bank of the Ohio River. The river is crossed by a splendid chain-bridge which connects Covington and Newport with the city. Of this bridge, let me inform the reader, the inhabitants are proud, and not without good reason ; it is 2,500 feet in length, and is the largest and most magnificent "chain bridje" in the world. The population of Cincinnati is c^ose on 400,000 ; the town is substantially built, with fine broad streets running to the river, which are crossed by others at right angles, regularly dividing the city into squares, giving Cincinnati the appearance of a large chess-board. The order and regularity of the streets struck us ; they are numbered from the river, beginning with Water Street, Front Street, Second Street, Third Street, and so on. Tiie cross streets are named, for the most part, after trees, as Plum Street, Elm Street, Vine Street, Walnut Street, etc. The order and division of the city must be most convenient for postal, police, and other municipal arrangements. The " stores " are large ; an extensive trade is carried on in pork, shipiJiiig, and in all kinds and departments of ''goods" in I04 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. the various important commercial establishments of a great enter- prising city. In writing on Chicago we detailed in brief the history, statistics and progress of that exciting and wonderfully bustling, go-a-head city. There would not be the same interest for details on the affairs of Cincinnati. Sufifice it to say, the town was first laid out in 1789, and named after Cincinnatus, the Roman Consul and rural hero, who saved his country in the time of war. In 1819 Cincinnati was made a ^'.ty, and now in its extent, population, commerce, and trade — in its politics, literature, newspapers and periodicals — in its charitable institutions, societies, hospitals, reformatories — and, further, in its homes, residences, schools and churches — it stands high on the list of American cities, and is in all respects a fair specimen of civilisa- tion and progress among the Western States. Here, as in other large cities and centres of population, there are diversities of nationality. We met with Germans, Scandina- vians, French, Welshmen, Irish, and Scotch. These foreign elements influence very considerably the affairs of the city. The residents are sometimes fond of displaying a little vanity to strangers. In conversation with an eminent nierchant greatly interested in Cincinnati, he remarked, " \'ou will be m-jch pleased, I guess, with your visit to tiiis city." Of course, I said I was, and on returning home would have the pleasure of testi- fying to its importance and distinction. This seemed to my friend very satisfactory, who, as he smoked a pipe, smilingly added, " You see, sir, we can hold our own in Cincinnati ; why, cert'nly we can, and in my opinion a good deal more. I guess we can hold our own, sir." This peculiarity of character among the Americans is observable in every city, and is stimulated by ambition and the love of gain. I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of several friends in Cincinnati: of their kindly attentions and many courtesies I retain the most grateful im- pressions. In the way of mere sight-seeing there is not much to interest C INC INN A TI. lo; and attract a stranger about Cincinnati. In the outskirts, how- ever, the private residences are eleganth huilt, all of them large, some of them delightfully neat, with trees, flowers, and beautiful gardens. It has been remarked that the popular taste of America in the art of floriculture and horticulture is behind. True, in many places in that great country there is room for improvement. But in the suburbs of Cincinnati and other suburban regions, as at Brooklyn, Boston, Philadelphia and Washington, we saw beautiful villas, large gardens, finely laid out, neatly kept, the very sight of which was most refreshing and agreeable. It should be borne in mind that the art of floriculture and horti- culture can only be practised and flourish as America grows and matures in the luxuries of civilised life ; it gardeners, as a ciass of emigrants, have hitherto not been much looked after, as the country advances they will be appreciated more and more. We noticed everywhere in America that the houses inhabited by the working class in the suburban regions are clean, neat, and comfortable ; indeed it is one of the features of social life above all others whicli impressed us with nuich satisfaction, that the homes of the working people are better in America than in Britain. " This is the result," said the merchant al ove referred to, "of well-organised, well-carried-out building societies." Most of the steady, welldoing working men of America ccmnect them- selves with these associations, and in due time secure a house of their own, and so become their own ])roprietors. One of the most attractive places in the outskirts of Cincinnati is the cemetery. It is about three miles out of town, but well repays a visit. We pleasantly recall to memory visiting the P'cre la chaise of Paris, a handsome enclosure of two hundred acres, but the splendid cemetery of Cincinnati encloses actually five hundred and fifty acres. The walks are retired ; and the monu- ments there raised by the hand of sorrrowing love out of resnect to the dead are costly and graceful. A favourite design is a marble erection surmounted by an angel. We noticcil in many of the graveyards stones of Peterhead granite, taken all the way io6 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. across the mighty Atlantic ; some of them before being finished and fitted up must have cost thousands of dollars. But we may not linger in the resting place of the dead. Here some of the American heroes lie buried. The name of Cincinnati is closely connected with the civil war. The sufferings and exertions of the city were very great ; over the grave of noble men who fell in the rebellion is erected a monument grand in design and execution, worthy of the place and the sacred memories which cluster within the shades of this magnificent enclosure. For many years Cincinnati has been noted among the States for the deep interest the city has manifested in the educa- tion of the young. It is long since the rights of conscience were first declared, and parents and guardians granted the liberty of restraining their children, if they thought fit, from attending school during the time the Bible was read. This liberty every- where exists throughout America. But, some time since, Cin- cinnati and the State of Ohio excluded the Bible entirely and all religious books from the common schools. On account of this step large numbers of good people feared that Ohio was drifting to infidelity altogether. But in reality the controversy about the Bible m the common schools can have little or no influence on teaching and practical working. None ; the vital point is to have teachers of the right stamp, whose heads and hearts carry the principles of truth, duty, order, and school efficiency. A large reward always follows, we here say parenthetically, the appointment of good teachers. Education being one of the chief blessings of a peoj^lc, School Boards should encourage good teachers, and vacancies should be filled not so much on considerations of " economy " as of getting the right and best (lualified man in character and attainments for the place. A remarkably strong temperance sentiment prevails in Cin- cinnati, and throughout the State of Ohio. As is known to the reader, a n'liisky 'war has been carried on for long by a heroic band of ladies, who, surcharged with stroiig moral purpose and persistency, are determined not to yield or give up the struggle C/NC/AWJ:/. 107 till their country be rescued " from the curse," and the drink- ing traffic banished from the land. Enquiry led us to the conclu- sion that this 7ohisky 7var movement on the part of the ladies had done much good. The vindication of this is in fhe ever- increasing influence which the temperance movement wields throughout the United States. "I guess," said a gentleman whose tiny but energetic wife is nobly enlisted in the ranks, " it is in good hands ; they'll yet drive it into a corner. " More than once this heroic whisky band have been brought into court before a judge, reprimanded, and vvarned not to pray any more in the streets. But — noble band ! " None of these things "' move them. They stand firm and faithful, joined heart and hand in this their holy quest, singing and praying : — " Oh, brothers, erring hrothers ! Who've wandered from your way, Our Father's loving pity Still seeks you all to day. ' The vast majority of ministers in America are in strong active sympathy with temperance work. Mr Moody finds time now and again to write a note to the temperance crusade. In one of these notes, he says : " I am in most hearty sympathy wim you in the grand work in which you are engaged. God has so blessed the women's temperance work that none would dare question its efficiency. May the Holy Spirit guide you in all your conclusions. My prayer is with yours, that God may remove the curse of intemperance from ours, and from all lands."— Z>. Z. Moody. We cannot say that we witnessed " much drunkenness " when travelling in America, yet in large cities drinking prevails, pro- ducing crime, poverty, insanity and disease ; yearly enslaving its thousands ; socially and morally degrading and otherwise des- troying many once hopeful lives. "May temperance hearts be strengthened with new love, and stirred to fresh zeal," writes a friend of the good cause : and we may add, may they be lifted loS AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. into clearer faith, that, Hke " Horatius at the Bridge," they may hold steadily to duty, and still pray, waiting and listening for the music of coming feet " to help in the rescue." We had the pleasure of spending a Sunday in Cincinnati. On Saturday through the day, we visited the Young Men's Christian Association rooms. A meeting was to be held at night ; and desirous of seeing as much as possible of the organizations of the city in their religious, intellectual, and social bearings, at the appointed hour we made our way to the meeting. Entering the large audience-room where the people were gathering, the first thing that took our attention was the stranger's " Welcome " hanging on the wall behind the platform. This motto shines forth from the portals of all the Young Men's Christian Associations in America, and produces at once a feeling of home and happiness in a stranger's mind. The meeting was what is called a " Christian Fellowship Meeting." It consisted of both sexes. We remember listening to several very interesting testimonies. A young man testified how through grace he had been enabled to give up his wordly companions, and leave off his sinful ways ; -another, an orator in his way, illustrated God's regard for the wayward ; a third, put in a word for soldiers and the temperance cause ,: so the meeting went on, and useful lessons in godliness and sobriety were pleasantly imparted. At the close of this testimony meeting, we were called upon by the chairman as a stranger to say a few words. On leaving, a Christian lady of energetic appearance, invited us to come to the prison on Sunday morning and address the prisoners. We hesitated, debating within ourselves whether to say "Yes" or "No." At last we promised to go. The morning was very wet ; but, true to our promise, a little before the hour of service, which was at 9 a.m., we started forth for the jail, and found from sixty to seventy prisoners seated on forms about the centre of one of the corridors ; others were looking out from their cells, and all waiting as for some one to come to say some- thing to them. Two gentlemen assisted in the service. Prayer, CIXCIXNA 77. 109 reading, and singing over, I was introduced in this somewhat high-sounding way, "the Rev. Dr. Craib from Old Scotland will now give an address." The scene is vividly before our mind as we write of it. What a melancholy, dull, dejected appearance these poor unfortunates had ! Some of them had a lawless reckless look, which told the sad story of men who, tempted in an evil hour, had fallen victims to crime, were now suffering their just deserts. What could we say to them ? What message did we or could we deliver, but the message of God's great gift to the world, and His willingness to save and help us, when .we cast ourselves and our burdens on Him. " What do you think is the cause," I enquired at one of the gentlemen, " of so many being in prison ? " " 'J'he chief cause," he replied, " is drink. '" " Some of the prisoners we addressed to-day," I remarked, "judging from their appearance have been in good positions," "1 guess," said he, "some of them have. Did you notice a prisoner sitting to your right leaning his head on his hand during your address ?" "I did." "\\'ell yon man was once a teacher and in a good position — drink brought him here." Then there was a prisoner immediately behind him who was once a man of considerable reputation in one of the Western States. He told me also of a third who had been in a good practice as a doctor, but giving way to drink, committed some outrage, and was in jail suffering the punishment of his crime. My heart was filled with sacred sorrow, with sorrow so deep that it broke into tears, heartfelt and sincere, and I murmured to mvseH and said " Oh God ! Thou beneficent Ruler of the universe, and must we see such scenes in every city ! " On the authority of an official in one of our prisons, " Sometimes a pri- soner is arrested in jail, and turned from a life of crime and shame to a life of faith and blissful trust in Christ, which is com- fort to the chief of sinners. " On leaving the prisoners we made for the Seventh Street Con- gregational Church. On Saturday afternoon we had met the good minister, the Rev. E. Halley, who invited us to worship no AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. there in tlie morning and preach in the evening. We arrived at the ch.ircli half-an-hour or more before the time of worship, and found a fine large, orderly school in efficient operation. In Cincinnati, as everywhere else in America, the church services are held morning and evening. The Sunday school meets an hour or an hour and a half, before the morning service, then again in the afternoon. The arrangement is much the same as in England, and to have the day thus divided is found to advance both the interests of church and school. We could not but think that the different branches of church work were perhaps done more efficiently in America than at home ; certainly in many cases with much more comfort, energy, and spirit. There was a good attendance at the Rev. Mr. Halley's church. Outside, the building looked more vcncable with years than many churches in the States ; inside, the house was cleanly kept, and comfor'iable. The singing was hearty, and the .prayers devotional. The pastor selected for his text, " Seek and ye shall find." The sermon was thoughtful and suggestive, very practical, and vigorously delivered. We enjoyed the service very much, and went away believing that the seed thus faithfully sown would root itself in the minds of the hearers, and on good soil produce abundant fruit. Returning through the street, we halted by the way and looked into a coloured diurch. The preacher was a full-black negro of the darkest African hue, who appeared to be about thirty-five to forty years of age. He had a good voice, was Uvely and animated in his delivery, and spoke with great readiness, con- siderable penetration, and much feeling. His text was, " No chastening for the present seemeth to be joyous," etc. The part of the sermon that we heard produced a most favourable impression on our mind, and strengthened our previous convic- tion that the negroes have a definite spiritual work to accomplish among themselves, for themselves, by their own sons ; therefore " Knit to one head, and members of each other, Let brother give a friendly hand to brother." CINCINNATI. Ill An amusing incident occurred in this coloured church, which we briefly relate. At the close of the sermon, a rather elderly- looking white man rose from his seat, and proceeding to the lower platform, addressed the audience in these words : — '' My friends, you will ail agree with me, when I say, that we have had a very excellent sermon. But I guess it is not the kind of a sermon some of us wanted here to-day. We wanted a sermon on giving — increased giving- — to support ordinances among us. My friends, some of you may not know that we are 150 dols. behind, and as our pastor has not informed you, I take this opportunity of doing so You all know me, and you know I'm a i)ractical man ; and because I am, I say right here, and right off, that many of you recjuire to be more liberal in your giving. The other Sunday, when standing at the door, I observed several — I speak to young men especially — who only put ten cents into the plate. Now, my friends, this cannot go on. Some of you, I guess, spend twice as much on theatres, newspai)ers, and tobacco as you do on the church. Next Sunday, and right on, we require the collection to De as large again, and this can easily be done. I'm not a rich man, as you all know, but I always put a dollar into the plate as my collection. I say this much, because I am interested in the prosperity of this church, and that you may be encouraged to do the same." j The above is the sum and substance of the practical mans remarks ai: the close of the minister's sermon. We hope his words, though they provoked some smiling and laughing, were helpful and inspiring to the people ; and that the young men whom he more particularly addressed, may not soon forget such good advice. The incident was to me perfectly amusing at the close of a religious service, but, after all, practical men are the men our churches need to-day, if we would have reality in religion and a s[)eedy evangelization of the world. After leaving the coloured church, ai.d dinner over, we visited the Union Bethel Sunday-school. This school, we must inform the reader, is one of the largest, if not the largest, in the United 112 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. States. It is a great mission institution ; the actual number of Sunday scholars on the roll, Mr Lee, superintendent, informed us, was 3,500. The school is divided into three departments — the prhiutr}\ the intermediate, and the advanced classes. A\'e were much pleased with what we saw and heard. The singing was remarkably good ; a gentleman presided at a large harmonium ; another led with the cornet ; all heartily joined, and a spirit of love, energy, and devotion seemed to pervade the entire school. The opening exercises over, the teachers are allowed thirty minutes for class instruction, then all gather together, and for a few minutes the superintendent examines the school on the lesson of the day. A large number of jxarents, friends, and visitors were present, and all were delighted to see such a number of children together, and hear them sing " of Jesus and His love." We congratulate this noble band of Christian teachers, all actively, and heartily employing their time and talents, working so earnestly and lovingly among the children. As we looked ui)on the school from the platform, we breathed a prayer that many rich sheaves might here be gathered, and the little ones all folded safely in the arms of the Good Shepherd. In the evening we occupied the Rev. Mr. Halley's pulpit. But instead of preaching a sermon, we were specially requested to give some account of " Christian effort in Scotland." The audience seemed interested, as if they appreciated the address. Several friends who had come from the old country, and had settled in Cincinijati, stayed behind, some to express thanks, others to send messages home. A well-known eminent Pro- fessor from Princeton College, U.S., who was in Cincinnati at the time, happened to attend the service. He did me the honour of saying that he was "glad to have the privilege of listening to one from the old country." And he went on remarking, " I do not know any country that can boast of so many scholarly theologians, men of solid worth as Scotland." " What do you say of Germany and England ? " I enquired. C/NCJ.VNA 77. H| " Cierniany stands high," said the professor ; " as for England, contrasting it, in the sense I refer, well it cannot ' be spoken of,' to use a common phrase, ' in the same day.' Englishmen, that is Oxford and Cambridge men, are ahead of you as classical scliolars, but much your inferiors as theologians ; and what I am pleased to know is, that though wonderful changes have of recent years come over us, the professors and theologians of Scotland uphold the distinguishing truths of old Christianity." " That is so," I replied, " but from the changes that have taken place in the theological attitude of the times, the question is not now so much the old truths of Christianity, as that which is best fitted to meet the wants of the age, and lead out the mind in benevolent work." " I agree with that," said the Rev. Mr. Halley, " and if you will pardon a remark, I have often thought that we make too much of ' doctrine,' if that is what you mean by the phrase 'Old Christianity.'" "I mean by the piirase 'Old Christianity,'" rejoined the professor, "the doctrines of the standards of the Presbyterian Church. I am glad to find that these doctrines are held in absolutely good faith by the majority of the Presbyteri iU ministers in the old country." I'earing, in case my good friend Mr. Halley should again ])ut a troubles(;me question, I asked the professor his opinion, as to whether he thought the doctrinal changes tliat the theological world had been experiencing o( recent years, would lead to a reconstruction of Christianity and the creeds of Christendom ?" " Not in our day,'' was his prompt reply. A gentleman standing close by, who had listened to all this, said, " In my opinion ' a recon- struction of Christianity ' is what is needed ; then, on the basis of that, a new religion would be founded." " A new religion," remarked the professor, " I object to that phrase ; it is meaningless without an explanation ; religion is ever new to the heart that feels its need of God and yearns for comfort." The conversation here ended. On leaving the church, a man came up to me and said, " Once lost, but now found." We walked along the street together; his story was very interesting. 1 8 114 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. repeat it as near as possible in his own words : — " I had been a wanderer for years, Some weeks ago, I came from Boston to this city. One evening in wandering through the streets, home- less and friendless, the sound of music caught my ear. It came from the rooms of the Young Men's Christian Association. A meeting was being held. I ventured in, when I heard some one speak of God's love to wandering souls. My heart was touched; I became deeply impressed; I felt I was a great sinner. At the close of the meeting, I left the rooms of the association resolved to lead a new life. But no rest came to me ; I knew not what to do. One night I went to another meeting addressed by an earnest young man; our attention was directed to John iii. i6, ' For God so loved the world,' etc. A new light such as I had never seen shone on that word, and there I was enabled to give myself up to Christ, and I felt as if I heard Him say, ' Thy sins are forgiven thee.' " Such was the substance of this young man's story. But as is often the case, he fell into mental darkness, and had been in great distress all day longing to see the light. His former enjoyments were wearisome ; he had sorrow and pain, and could only cry, " Oh, that I had light." On hearing our testimony as to "Christian effort in Scotland," in connection with something said, the feelings of his heart were brightened; he took courage ; again the light met his eyes ; he went home with peace restored and with joy and comfort of mind. This Sunday in Cincinnati was to us a very interesting and pleasant one. We cannot but think in reflecting on it, without any reference to a religious or non-religious mino, how very largely the truths of religion cheer the downcast spirit and become the foundation of felicity and joy to our young men who, valuing real happiness, when dark days yet overshadow them, receive these truths into their hearts. CHAPTER XII. FROM CINCINNATI TO PITTSBURG, ACROSS THE ' ALLEGHANIES. C\^ Monday morning we left Cincinnati for Pittsburg, having before us a journey of 300 miles. We started for the depot in the early morning and in good time to secure a comfortable seat, one favourable for as good a view of the country as possible. The cars soon whirled away, filled to their utmost capacity. There was, I remember, an imposing train. Late comers had difficulty in obtaining even standing room till passengers more fortunate left at stations on the way. Having several times been asked as to the expense of railway travelling in America, we may here state in a sentence that a single ticket for this extent of journey cost somewhere about ten dollars, and there being no second and third class carriages in the United States, of course there is nothing cheaper. Our route was from East to West through the State of Ohio. In travelling we were interested in the features of the country. The agricultural districts of this State impressed us as not unlike parts of our old Scotland. The land is mostly in a state of cultivation. The soil is rich and productive. There are fine farms, the average size of which is 100 acres, and in a good year the crops are splendid. During these long journeys — lasting for a whole day — one was sometimes glad of a friend to talk to, or a book to read, or indeed, to listen to the conversation of fellow travellers. Close behind us sat two Yankee gentlemen, each with book in hand, and in freshness of mental vigour, talking freely on dogmas of "theological position and change." Who they were we did not ii6 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. learn, but they appeared to be perfectly well acquainted with the great questions of the day as between theology and science. The more talkative and pretentious of the two, in the course of converse, remarked that the Church was " moving in the way of great doctrinal changes." He seemed by this to create the impression as if he knew something. At all events, he had been scanning some cloud, which, through the aid of his prophetic glass, indicated to his mind a coming change in the attitude of the religious world. What was the interpretation ? A day of conflict, trial, and tribulation for the Church ! And so, accord- ing to his testimony, there are " rocks a-head " in America as at home. These are agitating times. Theology and the Church are rocked on troubled waters. Everywhere criticism marks inquiry. With many good people this state of things is sadly lamented and regarded with the greatest alarm. Others again are more hopeful, believing that " the Church and theology in these times bid fair to reform ; and so they say let the worst come ; let the storm arise and the tempest rage, the gale which may heap the sea into mountains will only waft us the more speedily to the haven of rest. We should not, if we are wise, be too impatient with matters of " position and change " in theology. The Church of Christ is not bound to one condition or stereotyped law of things. She may prosper and discharge her missions worthily to the world under various conditions ; for holding Christ as her Head, and following Him she will yet go forward among the nations and kingdoms of the earth, guiding the world and bringing mankind in still larger numbers into the higher realms of truth to know the great things of the living Lord. In conversation on this subject with us, a leading scholar in America, a Joshua in Israel, held that the intelligence and faith of the country were becoming clearer, stronger and more decisive, and, in missionary operation far more devotect and active than heretofore. " Oir faith in Christianity," he remarked, " is strong ; there need be no alarm in America as to religion ; FROM CINCLXNATI TO PITTS lU'RG. 117 men may, as did Mr Miles of Chicago, forsake the pulpit for the stage, one here and there do unexpected things ; and men like Colonel IngersoU, of whom you have heard in Europe, may attempt to argue down religion, but these things the world in all ages has been accustomed to; they do not much move us; what we see and hear in this way only serves to indicate the extent to which the gospel leaven is working in the United States." Such were his observations, and his sensible view of things. But lo ! the train has been rushing along ; we are in Columbus, a town with a population say of 45,000, evidently a place of considerable importance in the State of Ohio. It is the i)olitical capital of the State. Our stay was brief, but long enough, how- ever, to recognise signs of an important local metropolis, with all the niacliinery of activity, labour, finan':e, and official profession. Columbus, we have said, is a pi. ice of considerable importance, and we are justified in making the remark, for the reader must be told that it is here where the State Congress assembles ; and further, in that Columbus as a city prides itself in taking the initiative in all practical movements for the good of the State of Ohio, or as the residents say, " for the good of the community at large." And so it is true, cities, like mortals, are infinitely confusing ; they rise in their estimation as they spread their own fame. But now we are coming near to l*itts!)urg, the liirmingham of America. The great furnace fires, the high chimney stalks, the clanking of hammers tell us that we have reached the city. *' What a smoky place ! " was our first exclamation ; and at the risk of offending the " residenters " and some Pittsburg friends, we must in all honesty and fairness give judgment that this is the smokiest town we have ever visited. Several years ago we remember staying for a time in our English IJirmingham, and we recollect asking a friend, " How can people live in such a smoky atmosphere?" But Pittsburg, in the State of Pennsylvania, sometimes humorously called " Pitchburg," carries the palm. In all our travels over a large part of the world it is the sootiest, iiS AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. smokiest, dirtiest city we have ever seen. We may have been unfortunate in our visit, for the day was wet, and the atmosphere impure, dense, and foul ; but Pittsburg exists in our mind a place enveloped, defiled, and famous in smoke. Of the smoke and the soot we complained, but were sooi silenced by the smart remark of an honest Yankee, who raid, " That which you comi)lain of is I guess the real prosperity and wealth of the place." We could not well dissent, for it just amounts to that; the smoke of the city is its support and progress. The history and modern development of Pittsburg is interest- ing. The town is situated on the Alleghany and Monongahela Rivers, at the head of the Ohio. It was built in 1765, on the site of an old Fort, and named Fort Pitt, in honour of our illustrious statesman, William Pitt. At first the town was only a military station, but as America opened up it became a great centre of commercial enterprise, and so the name was changed from Fort l^itt to Pittsburg. In this district there are some of the finest, richest deposits of coal, iron and steel to be found in America. In the city and neighbourhood there are very extensive glass works ; and works of oil and copper employing many hands, and other industries of large manufacture. From the centre of the town, within a radius of but a few miles, there are over 500 large factories. Among the public buildings are a fine court-house, an immense Roman Catholic cathedral, a large number of com- modious churches, halls, schools, colleges, and like other cities of America, several charitable institutions. An anecdote is told in the States, of an Irishman, who on landing in America, being asked where he intended to settle, replied, where he could find food and shelter, and where there was most given away. The charitable institutions everywhere existing in the States, do not " gi'e away " as the Irishman thought, but they provide for tho deserving poor, the aged, and such as are afflicted and unable to work. On ths other side of the river is the Allegheny city, which FROM CINCINNATI TO PITTSBURG. no lies on the slope of a hill looking down upon the toiling population of Pittsburg. It is here where the wealthier citizens have their homes, to which they go in quiet retreat at the close of the busy day. The population is 65,000 ; including both cities, the two together contain over 300,000 inhabitants. Many scholars and readers are acquainted with Outlines of T/ifo/ogy, by the learned Dr. Hodge of America. He was long connected with the Western Theological Institution of the Presbyterian Church, which has its seat on a commanding eminence near the city. It is a great building ; from its height is obtained a wide view of the scenery around. There are other colleges and seminaries here. We were happy to be informed, that among the professors there existed a large liberality of sentiment, much frankness, and fraternal feeling, and not only among the professors, but also among the ministers of all denominations in the city. This is as it should be, everywhere as it may be, and ought to be. Of late we have had communicated to us intelligence of a strong Temperance Revival in Pittsburg. A friend in writing to me, says that "people by scores are signing the pledge." This is pleasing, and what is hopeful is this : the press of the city and the ministers of all denominations heartily aid the work. In the order of our travels we now arrange to leave the city. We left in the morning, for we had again and again been told by friends acquainted with the route to be sure and cross the AUeghanies in "open day." For some days before it had been wet, but the rain had passed away, the sky was clear and beautiful, with a sufficiency of white soft autumn clouds to bring out objects at a distance with great distinctness. The journey across the AUeghanies is one of the scenes of the New World first and uppermost in our thoughts. No traveller to United States should miss seeing the .Alleghany mountains. For hours we gazed on a feast of vision which has left on the mind a lasting ineffaceable impression. The scenery is most picturesque, at some sections overwhelmingly grand, transcending 120 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. all power of pen and pencil to give the reader even the faintest idea of its glory and magnificence. (Generally speaking, the landscape of America, is, as already recorded, monotonous, flat, and uninteresting, but here it is varied and bold, striking in the extreme, and such as to stamp the memory and heart as the die stamps the coin. The most beautiful scenery ojiens before the eye at every turn. This is indeed, a region of high mountains and steep hills, rich valleys and fertile plains, brightened by numerous streams and ripi)ling waters, smiling woodlands, villages and houses of fanciful designs, lofty trees, gardens, and the most charming sights, altogether beyond description. It was interesting to watch the long snorting train pursuing its course along the heights and windings of this mountainous journey. At times the irou-horsc would give a shrill whistle and dash into shade and darkness, then emeige, presenting to the eye glimpses of beauty through the tree-to[)s so lovely, so grand, so far-reaching, as to suggest the vision of Moses from Pisgah. In some parts the scenes were most exciting. The sensation of a traveller here for the lirst time is : .Am I in a dream? Or where am I ? Have I taken wings and soared away to some Elysian land or to some fanciful panorama? This is something like the sensation which we experienced crossing the lofty, lovely Alleg- hany mountains, at the highest i)oint three thousand feet above tile level of the sea. At one stage of tlic journey the line is named the Horse Shoe bend, and rightly so, for the curve exactly resembles a horse shoe, and from the giddy precipice a traveller looking down into the mountainous depths below sees men as children and "things dwindling into littleness." The town of Alton lies in this district ; it is famed for its railway-works ; these are very extensive. It is said a hundred or more engines, and an ec]ual number of car- riages and a thousand of waggons are here made every year. l'"()r Uiiles descending the mountainous heights the engine re(iuires no steam at all, but on the other hand the train recjuires the application of brakes to regulate the speed. Hearing of so Al.I.K(;ilANY WOUNTArNX. 122 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. many railway accidents in America, the reader may be apt to connect a feeling of peril with this romantic journey among the mountains, but it is carefully made and not in the least to be dreaded for its danger. There is no steadier, safer travelling in the United States than crossing the AUeghanies. The great danger of railway travelling in America has always been the wooden bridges, often too hurriedly erected, but these are bemg rapidly displaced by more solid and safer erections. We are glad that we took the advice of our friends and that we crossed the AUeghanies in "open day." Our anticipations were more than realised ; we look back upon the journey through the mountains and glens of the AUeghanies with the greatest pleasure and delight. On our way we passed Harrisburg, the capital of Pennsylvania, a large thriving town on the left bank of the Susquehanna River, with many attractive qualities, handsome buildings, and as many diverging railways as are in the large city of Glasgow. Associated with Harrisburg, the following incident lingers in my memory. Our train came from the far West ; among others it brought a young man " on board" who, as his attendant re- marked, was " going home to die." Home to die ! Poor fellow ! He was in the last stage of consumption. He had travelled a great distance, his strength was almost gone. The shirking of the train was more than his poor body could bear, and widi the feeling of a deep shadow on his heart he sighed in a low tremu- lous moan and said " Oh for home ! Oh for home ! " He had left in youthful vigour, and had gone west with the intention of pushing his way and making his fortune, but an unseen hand arrested his plans, and a voice said "Return." When he was taken out of the car, as we looked upon his wasted frame, it was manifest that a few months had done the work of the " three- score and ten years." The streams of life's vital force were fast becoming dry on the shore of earthly existence, and the heart wearily and sadly yearned for home, there to rest we trust in peace, and in joy, satisfying and real. BALTIMORE. \z\ J -An hour at Harrisburg, ample refreshments, consisting of coffee, sandwiches, confectionery, fruits, altimore is a great commercial metropolis ; the town was foimded in 1729, and so named in honour of the Hon. Lord I'altimore. The city is the sixth in size in the United States ; it has a population of say, 325,000, and does a large trade in shipping, in flour, oysters, fruits, and traffic of various kinds. It is built on sloping ground on the River Patapsco, twelve miles from its entrance into Chesapeake Bay, and 200 by ship's course from the open sea. Baltimore is divided into two parts, old and new town. In the old portion of the town the streets are narrow, irregular, and not particularly clean. The new part is very different ; the streets are wide, well made, and well kept. We shall not deal with the matter of Churches ; but there are some fine ones in the city, some large Schools, several Literary Institutions and Charitable Homes. The most notable building in Baltimore, is the City Hall, the largest of its kind in America. It is a most extensive, magnificent, structure, was six years in building, and cost two and a-half millions money. The true boast of the Americans awakened in their minds by enterprise and competition, is as to all things in the way of vastness ; and so the great buildings of every city present to the eye of a stranger, aslong prophetically declared, but pictures of astound- ing surprise. CHAPTER XIII. IVASHINGTON CITY,— ITS VARIOUS INSTITUTIONS AND PLACES OF INTEREST. nPHE distance between Baltimore and Washington is forty miles, south-west. There is little of interest in the route, the district is pleasant, everywhere clad in autumnal verdure until the train reaches the eastern branch of the Potomac, and emerges from the Washington tunnel, when the white lofty dome of the Capitol is seen towering over the tree-tops, on the right. Arriving in Washington as at Cincinnati, we heard the sweet sound of bells in the distance, as if bidding strangers a joyous welcome to the Capitol. We took a hire and made for the Tremont Hotel, a comfortable, well-conducted establishment on the American plan. After " fixing " and arranging matters at the hotel, and having a note of introduction to Mr. Hall, Secretary of the Y.M.C.A., we went there and received a plan of the city from him, and much useful information as to the best time for visiting the buildings, and the more prominent objects of interest in and around Washington. The Young Men's Christian Association can boast of a handsome building, and there is in connection with it a large band of energetic, intelligent, devoted young men, all heartily labouring in some way in Association work. Washington is the metropolis of the great Republic, the federal capital, and the seat of the general Government of the United States. It is situated in the quiet atmosphere of the district of Columbia, on the east bank of the broad Potomac River, and has a population of about 150,000, of which a large number are coloured people. The site was chosen by Washington himself, in the hope that the city would soon become a great and prosperous metropolis. 126 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. A prominent author thus si)eaks of Washington : — " The position was selected with three special advantages in view. l'"irstly, That being on the Potomac it might have the full advantage of water communication, and a seaport. Secondly, That it might be so far removed from sea as to be free from invasion : and Thirdly, That it might be centred alike to all the States. As regards the first of these advantages, the river does not allow of large vessels coming up, so that Washington can never be great in its shipping. As regards the second, singularly enough ^^'ashington fell into the hands of the British in the war of 1812. As regards the third advantage, owing to the lie of the land, and the irregularities of the coast, Washington can never be so easy of access as other sites would have been. Baltimore would have been far better." Thus speaks a prommenl author on tlic advantages of Washington. Nevertheless it is a fine city, and America is agreed on it as the capital. 'J'he leaders of the United States and men of influence in the Government of America, have done what they could for its honour and prosperity. No rival has ever been put forward for the honour of entertaining the supreme legislative and judicial courts of the country. The ground embraced in the plan of A\'ashington city is very extensive, much of it still unbuilt on, so that, as yet, the city is of i)rospective, rather than present grandeur. Only a small part of the original design has been completed. Hence, the significant descriptive epithet so often applied to ^Vashington — "The city of magnificent distances." In times past the thoroughfares were " not up to the mark." They are now the finest and grandest in America, straight in line, well planned, and alive with traffic and business. The principal street avenues are shaded with fine trees growing on the sides. The streets are of great length, and are from 100 to 120 feet wide, while the avenues are from 130 to 160 feet wide. These avenues diverge from fine scjuares in various parts of Washington, crossing the other streets transversly, and named after several States of the Union. The streets which run East and West are named after WASHINGTON. 127 the letters of the ali)hahet, A Street East, B Street West, etc. Those which run North and South are numbered i, 2, 3, etc., as First Street North, Second Street South, etc. On all the streets and avenues of \Vashington tramway cars run : handsome e(]uij)ages are seen at certain seasons of the year in great abundance. Among the public buildings, the great Capitol stands out without a rival. It is an imposing edifice of the C.recian style, built of white marble, with grand ornamental portico, set in stately pillars, with a broad towering dome, rising UASl|i.\(.iT:i\. 400 feet above the ground. It occupies a commanding position on the brow of a plateau in the eastern part of the city. There it rises in bold prominence surrounded with e.xtensive wooded grounds, containing a great variety of beautiful trees at this season gaily plumed with tinted foliage of the richest hue. The building is 753 feet long, 307 feet high, and covers an area of 3i acres. The ascent to the top of the majestic dome is by a flight of stairs. I was most fortunate in my visit. The day was beautifully clear, and all things radiant in the beams of a cloud- less sun. We had an extensive view from the top of the dome 188 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. over the whole city and district around. 'I'he avenues all like the spokes of a wheel radiate towards this great House of Parliament. On some of these avenues as yet there are few or no buildings, so that they only look like fine drives, and nothing more. Entering the Capitol by the east front, a visitor is at once struck with the fine appearance of the door. It is all of bronze, weighs 20,000 pounds, and cost 30,000 dollars, that is about ;!^6ooo of our money. This celebrated door contains eight panels, descriptive of the life of Columbus, beginning with his departure from Palos, and ending with the death-bed scene of the great explorer, in which he is represented as saying, "/// manus iiias Domine contmendo ineum spiniinn " (Into Thy hands, O Lord, I commend my spirit). The Rotunda occupies the centre of the building, and is in itself a splendid circular hall, ninety-six feet in diameter. On its walls are eight highly decorative paintings, representing scenes and events of great interest in the history of America. The paintings represent the S/gnif/^' of the Declaration of Lidefen- dence ; the Surrender of Burgoyne ; the Surrender of Cormvallis ; the Landing of Columbus ; and others. From the Rotunda we pass to the grand Senate Chamber, which is much the same as our House of Lords. It is a beautiful Hall, one hundred and twenty feet long, by eighty feet wide, has seats for seventy-four senators, and gallery accommodation for a thousand people. In the southern wing is the spacious Hall of Representatives, much the same as our House of Commons. It is one hundred and fifty feet long, by ninety-three feet wide. The ceiling is arranged in forty-five panels of stained glass, containing the arn.s of the several States. This Hall, I was informed, is considered by many critics the finest apartment in the world. But both halls are finely ornamented, and are very handsome indeed. We spent sometime in the Library of the Capitol ; which is of great si-oe and. interest. The ceiling is of iron, with fire proof cases. There arc here more than 205,000 volumes, exclusive of WASHINGTOW 129 60,000 pamphlets. It is the largest library in America, we were pleased to learn that it may be consulted by readers at any time, and by strangers without even an introduction. In theCapitol there are many chambers, halls, and accommodation rooms. Turning from the grand, imposing Capitol, we may state that the building as it now stands, cost not far from 12,000,000 dollars. Going slowly to the city we visited the Patent Office, a large edifice, with a fine portico of Doric pillars at three of its fronts. This building is devoted to Fine Arts, navigation, engineering, hydraulics, models, implements, and all kinds of surgical, philo- sophical and chemical appliances. From the Patent Office we make for the Government Treasury House, a grand, massive building of the Ionic order, five hundred and eighty feet long, by three hundred feet wide. The immense size of the monolith columns on three of its fronts is especially noteworthy. There are about two hundred large, well-furnished rooms in the Treasury House. Among the things that struck me here was the great number of female clerks employed. These females are bright, independent, smart, Yankee looking girls. All over America young women are employed to a far greater extent in public offices than at home in the old country, and many of them receive handsome salaries. The next place that we visit is the President's House, the Executive Mansion or " The White House" as it is more common- ly called. This Mansion has long been the official residence of the Presidents of America. It has an elegant handsome appear- ance. There are no military officials at its gates. A stranger may enter without obstruction or questions. The Palace as we would call it is built of freestone, and modelled after the palace of the Duke of Leinster. The chief President has twelve hand- somely furnished family rooms on the second storey. The other rooms are occupied as the offices of the President and Secretaries. A beautiful garden faces the building. The grounds embrace an area of twenty acres, and are very beautifully and artistically laid out, and it goes without saying, well kept. 9 I30 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. Turning from " The White House " we visit another fine public building, the Smithsonian Institution. The edifice, unlike the President's House in appearance, is of red sandstone. The style is Norman-Gothic ; the entire length of the building is four hundred and fifty feet. It has nine towers in all, the effect of which is very fine. This Institution was endowed by James Smithson, an Englishman. Its object is, " the increase and diffusion of knowledge among men." Why Smithson bequeathed this gift to the United States is not known, for he w\is never in America ; his reasons have never been explained. The National Museum occupies a large part of the building. This Museum is exceedingly valuable. It is visited by distinguished men from all parts of the States. Lectures are delivered to students and the intelligent public. No doubt much good is done in carrying out the design of the founder, but it struck me that an institution such as this is, would have served its end better, and been of more service to America, had it bee-i in the centre of a larger population, as in New York or Philadelphia. The grounds of this institution comprise fifty acres; and each of the various public institutions having so nmch land apart, explains why Washington was designated the "City of Magnificent Distances." But besides the famous institutions referred to, there are many other handsome buildings, splendid specimens of architecture. For example, there are the various Departments of Agriculture, the City Hall, the Gallery of Art, the Navy \'ard, the Arsenal, the Washington Monument, and the Congressional Cemetery, with its fine ornamental grounds so well laid out in squares, paths, and avenues. Here lie many of the once famous men of America, and here are to be seen many monuments of great interest as works of art and cemetery design. There are also in Washington some grand hotels, some fine banks, churches, schools, and other public institutions, of a charitable and social purpose. We were taken by a prominent citizen to several of the schools and educational institutions and were greatly pleased with the teaching, and success of these schools. Among the WASHINGTON. 131 coloured race there is much good work being done. The work of educating the negroes has long been a difficult one, but it is carried on in Washington now with great efficiency. The schools are "graded," that is, divided into classes, according to the proficiency of the scholars ; and to see a room swarming with black boys and girls, all orderly, busy at lessons, was to me, who had never before seen many black children together, a strange but interesting sight, one of the most touching scenes that I witnessed in America. While in Washington I was introduced to Dr. Rankin, the energetic, able, and devoted pastor of the fust Congregational church of the city. He said, in speaking of the old country, " I have great admiration for .Scotland and Scotchmen." Dr. Rankin is a correspondent of Dr. Hately Waddell, (Glasgow, and, though he has never seen him, he greatly admires that gentleman for his fine translation of the Scriptures into the Scottish dialect, which is known in America. Dr. Rankin is much interested in the educational institutions of his city ; especially is he interested in the Howard University. P'or the Howard University, America is indebted to (ieneral Howard, who, not satisfied with primary education, and higher " Freedmeu's schools," founded this seat of learning with faculties of law, medicine, and other departments. The College is open to negro students and a large number of that class attend this university. As to the capacity of the negroes. Dr. Rankin and Professor Fairfield both testified to their intelligence, ability, and powers of comprehension. '' Some of the coloured students," remarked the Professor, " are in no way inferior to the white." ''Some of them," he added, "stand high in their examinations and obtain the degree of 15.. \., with high honours." At one time in the history of America, it was thought impossible to improve a negro, but freedom, and the power of truth can do great things. Of this fact " Uncle Tom," is a noble example. "America," we remarked in leaving the University, "may well rejoice in Ahralvm Lincoln's celebrated proclamation." " Ves," replied the Doctor, " he guided our country through the heaviest 132 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. trial that ever assailed it." For long, slavery hindered tlie progress and development of the States, but slavery is abolished, prohibited, and impossible on any portion of American territory. On a Friday evening we attended Dr. Rankin's Sunday School Preparatory Meeting. The doctor was present and at the close of the meeting, asked if we would accompany him to-morrow morning at half past seven to the provision market. This we promised to do, and at the appointed hour met the doctor, basket on arm going to the market to provide f^imily requirements for Sunday. I was struck with the number of gentlemen at the market in the early morning performing what would be considered in this country a somewhat humble office. With us it would be con- sidered " menial" and lowering to ministerial dignity. Certainly it would look very odd, but the same " feelings "' do not exist in America on this matter as with us, the ladies there encourage the practice, freely entrusting the '• marketing " to their husbands and "handicraftsmen" without the least fear as to the proper purchasing of these " domestic commodities." Leaving the market, and breakfast over the day was spent sight- seeing. To a friend who accompanied us we made the remark that " Washington for effect is the finest and most attractive city of all the fine cities of the United States." " Undoubtedly," was the ready reply. " If you speak of it by way of contrast it is unsurpassed." In some parts, among the coloured people, the houses are of wood ; among the better classes they are of brick, faced with stone or marble, and look very handsome. The interior very much resembles our Fnglish houses. The dining and drawing-rooms are mostly on the ground floor, and communicate with folding doors, thrown open in the evening for the comfort of the family. Among the better order, the houses are tastefully " fixed," as they always say in .\nierica, and display comfort, but not extravagance. We remember being taken through a gentleman's house — a gentleman in good position — and on rcmarkiuij tlut we were much pleased with all we had IVASIJIXGTON. 133 seen, he said " I guess it's better to be without too extravagant fix- ings, with a balance in your banker's book, than to have your house adorned and your brains puzzled about the ways and means." This remark was significant, with a reference to some one in difficulty, no doubt, but very sensible, coming from one in that position where luxuries, and extravagances arc often held in high estimation, but which do not replenish the pockets, nor always prove investments of profit. It may seem strange, but in America, the servant of the house is above answering the bell and opening the door at the call of a visitor. This is looked upon as the duty of her mistress. Indeed at places where servants do open the door to visitors, immediately you enter the servant disappears, without ever think- ing of showing you into the room or announcing your arrival. l"or a stranger this is not always very comfortable, though it is of frequent occurrence. I did not experience it myself, but a gentleman traveller from 1-^ngland, declared that again and again in calling on people he had been lelt by tl'.e servant in the entrance-hall, to amuse himself among nothing but hat-pegs and umbrellas, with no choice remaining but to return whence he came or open a door on speculation, with the risk of intruding on a company, or somebody, or worse — at best a somewhat unpleasant introduction to a family. But travellers to .America must not complain ot its customs — .\merica is the land of freedom, and therefore that boon, even in the case of domestic servants, must be granted, for they are indignant if spoken to in the way of " counselling on matters," and will very soon leave the laniily, and make a change to another. America is a re[)ublican country — of this we were several times reminded while travelling in the United States. Hut not willing to be driven from the field, we ventured to say that though it was more fashionable to speak of " liberty and etjuality" in America than in this country, it did not after all strike us that the difference was very great — at least not so great as many imagine, for, whatever, may be the laws, customs, and privileges 134 A ^T ERIC A AND THE AMERICANS. of the people, the spirit of aristocracy there appears, and displays itself in a variety of ways. The truth is, therefore, that there is as much social and practical equality in Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, as in Washington, the federal capital of the United States. In all countries human nature is very much alike. No- where are the tastes of society backward in favour of distinction. Everywhere peo|)le of fortune, education, and i)osition, have a feeling of superiority. In this sense, why should it be otherwise? The rich are socially above the poor ; and the learned are in- tellectually above the ignorant. We have remarked that we were several times reminded of republicanism while in the United States, but not once from the lips of ihe/aifer sex. This could hardly be ! Beauty is not a republican quality : it is essentially despotic, and will never sur- render its supremacy and privilege. Republican ladies ! In vain we mention the word, there nowhere exists, nor can exist, any such beings. Equality, then, among ladies is beyond the bounds of possibility, and with this we think the fairer sex will heartily agree. It has been said that a strong prejudice exists m the United States against European travellers. This was not our experience. In our opinion a gentleman will meet with nothing but kindness and be well treated from one end of America to the other. Of course the Americans are not to be " put upon" by anybody or everybody who may visit this country. They have their peculiat- ities, their likes and dislikes, as every nation and people have, but in good society they will be found an intelligent, entertaining, hospitable jieople. They are keenly observant and very soon detect " bad breeding." They are able to draw their own con- clusions, make their own acquaintances, and form their own opinions. I speak here of good society, where the people are educated, and above ignorance and pretension both in manners and morals. There is, we freely admit, a i)lainness and abruptness in man- ners, at first amusing, if not startling to English visitors. Not in WASHINGTON. .>-•> the sense however of rudeness, but in the way of that open free- ness of manner, which is one of the chief characteristics of this country. We spent a very pleasant Sunday in Washington. At 9.30 a.m. we visited the large Sunday School in connection with Dr. Rankin's ministry. At 1 1 a.m. we attended divine service at the church, a large, comfortable, commodious house. The sermon was i)reached not by the Dr. but by a brother minister from New Jersey city. It was a thoughtful, earnest, quietly delivered discourse, the preacher's great desire being to guide the minds of his hearers to rest in "the Fatherhood of God, the keystone of faith, hope, and love." In the afternoon Dr. Rankin took me to his coloured mission church, and would have me address the negroes. There was a large attendance ; men, women, and children, all as dark as swarthy Ethiopians. I hardly knew what best to say, for the doctor had smilingly told me, " Now if you are not interesting, and tell them one or two stories, or if you keep them too long, you need'nt be surprised at seeing them rise and go out." I took the hint, and began my address with a story of an incident of American life, by way of arresting their attention. Toward the close I embraced the opportunity of asking a few ([uestions, to test their understanding of gospel truth. The negroes answered, much to my delight; and the answers were intelligent, and given with great readiness. Talking with a gentleman who laboured among these " darkies," I asked, what was his experience as to the ability and capacity of the negroes in accpiiring knowledge. He replied "In many cases not inferior to others; but," he added, "they have many ditticulties to struggle against, which you cannot well understand. " He referred to their past condition as a race and its effects. As the negroes grow u[) these evils will be corrected and overcome. There was a large number of young " niggers" at the service. JJut what will they all do when they go into the world ? ' I asked myself, ^^'ell, some will go to college ; others will follow after some trade or 136 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. occupation ; others, again, will go to sea ; they make good cooks, waiters, and domestic servants. Our impressions of the negroes are on the whole very favo'irablc Christian work among them is *' not so much time and money thrown away," as some would try to make us believe, As yet, however, they but " hewers of wood and drawers of water" to society. At night we occupied Dr. Rankin's pulpit and were introduced to his people as a " minister from the island of Scotland." When the service was over, several friends, lately from the old country, glad to see us, tarried to shake hands and send home messages to those whom they had recently ^ft behind. To Dr. Rankin, Messers Scott, Hall, Playfair, and others, we were much indebted for the information they supplied, and for the time which they spent in taking us to the various institutions and places of interest in and around Washington. CHAPTER XIV. PIIILADELPIIIA, THE QUAKER CITY, BETHANY SINDAY SCHOOL. T LEFT Washington city at eight o'clock in the morning for -*- Philadelphia, the capital of Pennsylvania. The distance between the two cities is 140 miles, route via Baltimore, through the States of Maryland and Delaware. This district of late years has vastly improved ; not long ago it was but a lonesome dreary wilderness, with slavery existing in it, up to the time of the American war. Since then, however, the physical, as well as the social and moral aspects of things have wonderfully changed. Among other stations on the route, one was named "Aberdeen," which brought to mind our own northern granite city. Here and there we caught some fine glimpses of the inlets of Chesa- peake Bay ; in crossing the creeks, streams, and rivers whicli lay in our way, for many miles, we had lovely views of scenery now and again presented to the eye as we looked on the banks of the flowing waters, sparkling in the sunlight of an early, autunmal sun. We crossed the broad waters of the great Susquehanna river by a fine bridge 5250 feet long, erected at a cost of a million and a half dollars. Passing Havre de Grace and other towns and villages, we had some time at Wilmington, a pleasant town w;th 33,000 thousand inhabitants, and an abundant supply of oysters, very large and very delicious to those who relish their flavour. Wilmington is situated on a river named Brandywine, and in i)ass- ing it travellers have a little pleasantry with one another over the name of this " stimulating" stream. The next town on the route which we have noted in our book is Chester, a small place but of some historical importance, for it was here in 1682 where 138 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. William Penn, the celebrated English quaker and founder of the colony of Pennsylvania, first touched American soil, A tree is said to mark the spot where he landed. Travelling through the States of Maryland and Delaware, as the train pursued its course T had brought to mind something of what, when but a mere youth, I had read of the old Indian tribes which used to inhabit the district, and the names of John Eliot and David Brainerd, two holy, devoted missionaries who nobly laboured and suffered among this people, and through whose instrumentality great things were wrought in the spread of civilization, light, and truth. But we are nearingthe city of Philadelphia. At half-past one the train arrives. Everywhere, on every side, are signs of busy life. Naturally froiH the depot we proceed to a hotel, engage a room, enter our name, unj)ack our luggage, refresh ourselves with a wash, and make for the dining-room, a splendid hall, with lofty ceiling, small separate tables, mosaic floor, and an abundance of waiters, men of colour, but very respectful looking, clean, and orderly, going about their duties as if they were " born waiters." The dinner over, we commenced, by taking a car through the principal streets to the suburbs, exploring the Quaker city, if we may use such a phrase, in giving our impressions of the great Philadelphia city. We felt on historical ground — memories of Penn, Franklin, and other fathers were recalled ; some curious but interesting stories were told us of the history and movements of some of the early settlers here. Strolling about, we came upon the rooms of the Young Men's Christian Association. The building is of large diameter, handsome, well planned, with every convenience for carrying on Association work. The well-known Philadelphia merchant, Mr. John Wanamaker, was the president of the Association, Mr. Rowland, the managing-superintendent. The latter gave us a hearty welcome, showed us through the building, and related many interesting particulars as to the Association and its work, among the young men of this great city. And truly Philadelphia is a great city. It has a population of nearly 900,000, and is, therefore, the second city in number and PHILAnELrillA. 139 importance of the United States. It was planned and.named by William Penn the (Quaker ; it is situated between two Lireat rivers, the Delaware and the Schuylkill, ninety five miles from sea. The site is level, the general appearance solid, stable, regular. The thoroughfares are very busy ; the traffic is immense. Tn addition to carts, lorries, vans, etc. , 650 tramway cars run, employing 3600 horses in the service. The streets run east and west, north and south, crossing each other at right angles, dividing Philadelphia like Cincinnatti, into large blocks or squares, which give the city the appearance of a large chess-board. The streets that run from east to west are chiefly named after trees, as Chestnut Street, Walnut Street, Vine Street, etc., while those which run from north to south are numbered First Street, Second Street, Third Street, and so on up to Seventy Street, if not higher. Most of the dwelling-houses are of red brick, faced with white marble ; their green Venetian shutters give them a cheerful, comfortable appearance. They are numbered according to " blocks" or squares, a new hundred commencing with every new square, making it easy to know the locality of a house, and convenient for sanitary, postal, and other municipal arrangements. Phila- delphia has a fine supi)ly of water ; the reservoirs are on a picturesque eminence, beautifully laid out in public gardens, and tastefully ornamented. Among the spacious buildings, the most attractive to strangers is the Independence Hall. Of this vener- able erection, the most interesting building in many respects in America, the Americans are justly proud. Near this Penn, the celebrated Quaker, made his contract with the Indians, and here the first Congress met. 'i"he Hall was long used as a State House ; from its doorway steps was read to an immense crowd of people the Declaration of Independence on July the 4th, 1776. Wiihin the building are many interesting relics, portraits, and documents of a historical nature." Before the entrance stands a fine statue of General Washington, bearing the inscription — "To General Washington, the father of his country, first in war, first in peace, and first in the affections of his people." Suggestive 140 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. testimony to a great man ! And there are many such testimonies throughout the United State?, not only to General Washington but also to President Lincoln, whose name is everywhere held in highest honour. I looked with veneration upon many of the statues, scenes, and associations of those two noble, distinguished, unsurpassed warriors, statesmen, and men. The following very fitting and beautiful tribute, composed on Washington by the late Dr. Andrew Reed, has been sent by a friend for publication, and will be read with interest : — WASHINGTON, THE r.RAVE— THE WISE — THE C.OOD : WASHINGTON, SUPREME IN WAR, IN COUNCIL, AND IN PEACE : WASHINGTON, VALIANT WITHOUT AMniTION, DLSCKEET WTIHOUT FEAR, AND CONl-TDENCK WmiOUT PRESUMPTION : WASHINGTON, IN DISASTER CALM, IN SUCCESS MODERATE, IN ALL HIMSEI.I" : — WASHINGTON, THE HERO, THE i'ATRIOT, i HE CHRISTIAN, THE FATHER OF NATIONS, THE FRIEND OF MANKIND, WHO, W HEN HE HAD WON ALL, RENOUNCED ALL ; AND SOUC.HT, IN THE BOSOM OF HIS FAMILY AND 01' NAIURI-,, RETIREMENT ; AND IN THE HOPE OF RELIGION, IMMORTALITY. From the Independence Hall accompanied by two friends we proceed to the great City Hall, a magnificent building in the centre of the city, built for municipal purposes. The citizens are proud to say that it is the finest of its kind and without a rival in any city throughout America. Its full height is fully 450 feet ; it is seen at a great distance, from all points of the city, and far beyond it. The whole building is of white marble ; it has a commanding appearance ; we were told the cost greatly exceeded PHfLA DEI. Pin A. 141 the original estimate of 10,000,000 dollars. The Masonic Temple is a structure of great splendour. The Girard College is another magnificent building. It was founded by Stephen Girard, a city merchant. It is of enormous size. The Rev. I). Macrae in his Notes says " that 20,000 people could stand upon the roof." The object of this institution is to feed, clothe educate and care for orphans, giving them trades at a certain age according to their tastes. It is an unspeakable boon to the poor of Philadelphia. As to the churches of this city, they are numerous — Presbyterians, Methodists, Independents, Baptists, etc., also Quakers' Meeting-houses, missions, schools, academies, colleges, banks, hotels, hospitals, and other large beneficent homes on whose walls there are inscribed in keeping with other homes and the general taste of the Americans, beautiful mottoes such as " A Saviour to redeem," " God is love," " One is our Master, even Christ," " Let brotherly love continue," and others expressive of large-hearted charity and fraternal love. These mottoes have an influence for good. Speaking with an aged inmate of one of these homes she pointed to an inscription on the side of her room and said, "That wonderfully helps me." We knew what she meant : the testimony of others was to the same effect. 'J'he good words aid their vision, and revive and refresh their memories. The reader may wish to know the arrangement or plan followed in getting the aged or infirm into these charitable institutions : it is this, a church in the city engages ten rooius, or five, or three, as the case may be, and takes the poor there and supplies their wants through the institution. The plan is an admirable one, the inmates do not feel as in a " Poor House." I went and saw the large church where for many year the late Albert Barnes preached. In the vestry his well-known commentary was written and all his literary work done. Here he prepared his sermons, and we were informed he did so often before breakfast. It may seem strange why Mr. Barnes went to his vestry to do his sermons and other literary work. The reason is this. It is the custom in America 142 AMERICA AM) INK AM/ih' /CANS. for ministers to study in their vestries. 'I'he church furnishes the minister's Ubrary ; and ministers, where the people are thoughtful, have their sanctum sanctorum well stocked with a splendid supply of historical, critical and theological books. I had great pleasure in hearing of Mr. Barnes' most abundant labours. The reader n^ay not know, but like some other good men, in days of ecclesiastical enquiry, agitation and strife, he, too, was libelled for "unsoundness in the faith." While his case was being tried, although suspended from preaching, he regularly attended divine worship in his own church, and j)atiently sat for a whole year in his pew, listening to others a[jpointed by the Assembly to preach. When the time of suspension was at an end, the first Sunday he occui)icd the puli)it large crowds filled the house ; it was thought he would inveigh strongly against the conduct of the Assembly for suspending him. But good man that he was ! he took no notice of the treatment he had received, but " preached Christ as before, the Son of (Jod and Saviour of the world." He was an earnest Christian man, of a kindly disposition, honourably consistent, and much esteemed in Philadelphia. From Mr. i5arnes' church we drove to the fine park where the great Exhibition of 1S76 was held. It is of immense size, the largest park in the world, said to be 9000 acres in extent. There are other fine parks in Philul liihia and all display popular taste, good gardening and great advance in ornamental and useful adornments. We found Philadelphia to be a great publishing emporium, in this respect next to New York. The machinery is vast and perfect. Immense numbers of books, journals, magazines, papers and periodicals are issued ; we were much pleased to see in these printing establishments plenty of space, good ventilation, and every provision for the health and comfort of the workmen. We say nothing here of the quality of the news- jxipers, journals, etc., which are so extensively issued in the city, but their vast circulation implies that the Americans are a reading people or such vast numbers of books, newspapers and journals riiii.ADEf.rniA. 143 would not be issued and circulated in the United States. 'Hie Presbyterian Sunday-school Union of America, has its head- (juarters in Philadelphia. It has a useful si)here in relation to the young, and is a powerful means in bringing hearts and homes watchful of their own good into contact with the light of truth and the guidin., conscience of spiritual men who take every pains to direct the young. As to the " fashionable life " of Philadelphia we have nothing to say. In this respect cities are much alike. " The people who live for pleasure "' some one has well said, *' are of little account in the life and character of the nation." But "fashionable life," may be read in another way as regartls its bearing on "the life and character of a nation." The reader must be left in passing to decide for himself. If there is a temj)tation in America, " to live for pleasure " we may believe the Americans are able to estimate such living at its proper value. At the time of our visit some little de[)ression was felt in the various branches of manufacture and commerce. Trade was said to be rather "dull and not satisfactory,"' yet wages were good ; the ordinary foctory girls were seen with their ]iarasols in the streets going to and from their work. But let us be charitable, and believe that the parasols were rather for comfort than fashion, more for shade than show. Or making inquiry as to the physical and social condition of the people in the poorer localities, we regret to say that among the French, German, and Irish we found "drink" to be an abounding evil prevailing here as elsewhere. Intem- perance seems to be the world's besetting sin, at least of every city, leading vast numbers into poverty, degradation, and miseries of almost every descrii)tion. But notwithstanding there are hopeful signs at work here as in Pittsburg : a remarkable temperance movement has commenced of late which is to many an individual and family the one hope of a new life, ^\'hat a blessing it would be for the Church and the world, were the drinking customs of society arrested and abolished from this and every land ! God-speed to all such movements and to every 144 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. means national or local employed to rescue the slave of intem- perance. We have no wish to intrude ourselves, or to meddle with the secret concerns of any, but we may here be allowed to quote a single verse popular in America in the temperance cause : it is this, — " Chribtian, Christ for thee has died, And for thy brother too ; See that his soul no woe betide Through thoughtlessness in you." We remember a pleasant evening spent in Philadelphia in the house of the well-known Mr. Geo. H. Stewart, a truly noble, intelligent, generous Christian man, who has on several occasions visited "old Scotland." He talked freely of our cities, our customs, our mountains, our beautiful scenery and other rational attractions, and of the spread and influence of the great religious movement in Scotland :,omi years ^^^o under his "much attached friend and brother Moody." "But it 1? cpgic;," he said, "for an evangelist to labour with results in Scotland than America ; there is a better backbone in theology with you than with us." Very pleasant are our recollections of an afternoon spent in the Bethany Sunday-school situated in Twenty-second Street, corner of Bainbridge. The Bethany school is now known as a national institution ; it is of immense size, of various and complicated machinery, but excellent management, under the devoted superintendent, Mr. John Wanamaker. There are over 2,300 children on the roll. Mr. Wanamaker is assisted in this great work by a large staff of teachers whose teaching embodies the the best results of the American Sunday-school system. In my travels in the United States as elsewhere I have visited many Sunday Schools, but I have never visited one more interesting, and more a model school in its management and teaching than the 01.. above named. This Bethany School was first started by a few earnest people in a tent erected in the sum- ,ilip|l|!;)llll!l!|ll!ltl!ll:i,;;.; ij|i;m!! 1 ■ ' ■ fii .'%l 1,1 ,.i I ' i;'" to 146 AMERICA AXD THE AMERICANS. mer of 1S58, in a district of Philadelphia where much sin and social disorder reigned. This tent was in a small way and plain enough ; it was built of an old ship-sail, l.)Ut piijvcd indeed a " tabernacle in the wilderness." The work so prospered that a more [)ermanent " tabernacle" had to be erected. It was named " Dethany," a designation very appropriate for such a mission ; a name full of the tenderest memories of one whose life was spent among the outcast, the fallen, the destitute and needy, preaching " the gospel of the kingdom to the [joor." Wonderful success attended the efforts put forth by the Ijethany workers. Crowds were drawn within the gates. Soon the house became too strait. A new site was purchased, and a larger building erected on Twenty-second street, Bainbridge. Hai;|)ily the good work went on ; all wrought, Nehemiah-like ; all gave heartily ; the children begged with collecting cards ; in this way the enterprise was hastened and when completed was to the joy and rejoicing of many. Hut all this was only an earnest of " things to come.' The mission so prospered that in 1874 the ijethany Schools had to be taken down, rebuilt, and greatly enlarged. If intense interest was manifested in the erection of the first Bethany, more so even was this the case in the erection of the second. Said a friend upon the occasion of our visit, " The undertaking was our talk by d.iy and our dream by night." It was a noble enterprise, and the people of Philadelphia, the city of " brotherly love,"' felt It a real jjrivilege to iiave a share in the building of this " house ot nil icy." The building is large ; it is 140 feet long by 112 feet wiiie, seaiini; ovi r 3000 scholars and teachers. The front is CM(ularin fi)nn, rising three storeys, with bell-lower and projected s|)ire 105 teei hit;h. The style of architecture is Scandinavian, tpKiiiit and pu tures.jue, " but not too extravnganlly fi.xed." 'I'he arrangement ot the mteiior for the purposes \\\ view is admirable. i'liere is first die large centra! hall, with a beautiful green fountain playing in the middle, 'i'his hall is 63 feet by 5S feet, rising gradually from the platform to the other end, arranged pmi.ADEl.rHlA. 147 that all can see the su[)crintenclent. Standini; on the platform, to the right is tlie "chapel" for male infant scholars ; to the left another for female infant scholars ; to the north are a series of radiatini; rooms for adult classes separated from tliu central hall by glass sashes ; to the south is a fine lecture hall, with graceful gallery, seating 350 jieople, separated from the main hall by a glass division, ihe visitors' gallery runs round the sides and the end of the sch(jol gallery ; it is reached by distinct entrances from the outside. The south-west part of the building is four storeys high : it contains kitchen, and halls and rooms for all kinds of social, moral, intellectual and religious improvement. Wide staircases lead to the second lloor, and here again are halls and class-rooms in great abundance, but none empty— all well occupied. 'l"he building is airy and the ventilation [)erfect, everything is clean, bright, and cheerful. On Sunday nu^rning at half-past nine a school service is held, and worship for all who may come at half-past ten. 'l"he regular school service is held in the afternoon at half past two o'clock. Now is the time to see ilethany. Let the reader accompany me to the school, and us imagine ourselves seated on the platforn). The afternoon is bright and lovely. See! what a stream of happy faces pours for half-an-hour into the grand l;uilding. As the chil- dren enter, the secretaries and assistant superintendents are busy — scholars and teachers receive a pleasant greeting. Details arranged, the hour up, the superintendent appears on the plai- lorm, and with his foot rings the prei)aration bell. The doois are now closed : all who come after are checked as late comers, 'i'he teachers are in their places before the hour ; every teacher is responsible for the quiet behaviour of his or her class. "They know their duty," said Mr. \Vanamaker, " and attend to it.'' There is, therefore, no calling t(j order by the superintendent, no recjuesting noisy children to be cjuiet from the platform. The second bell rings, and absolute silence reigns. A short invocation is offered up by the superintendent, then the organ plays, and all rise and join in singing the hymn, "Holy, holy, holy, Lord Clod H^ AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. Almighty." After this a brief portion of Scripture is read, and prayer offered, then come questions and answers on the " golden text" of the day, and after this all join again in a hymn or invocation, such as— *' Help us Lord, throughout this day, While we sing and while we pray ; Let Thy Spirit with us stay While we hear of Jesus." After this comes the taking up of the missionary offerings ; then follows a distinctive feature of the IJethany school. " Have you brought your Bibles with you?" asks the superin- tendent, raising his own above his head. All over the school up go the Bibles of teachers and scholars. Should the superintendent see any boy or girl in any of the classes not having the sacred Book he at once requests the teachers to see that all bring their Bibles ; and what a variety, large and small, of all colours and shapes may be seen in Bethany Sabbath School ! Once more the bell rings ; notices for next Sunday or other intimations are given out and the Scripture lessons by the teachers begin. Half-an-hour is allowed for instruction, during which time we visit the class-rooms. Returning to the platform, the central hall looks like a hive of bees, and the whole school presents man}' features of earnest, encouraging work. The half- hour has quickly passed ; again the su[)erintendent mounts the " rostrum,'' and the bell-signal is given for the lessons to close. Another ring of ihe bell and all are quiet, orderly, and ready to join in the closing exercises. These closing exercises are varied according to circumstances. The superintendent briefly with a few remarks or illustrative story, seeks to fasten the main truth of the lesson on the minds of the scholars. A hymn is sung, or a solo by one, the chorus by the whole, or a part of the school, and together with the organ and cornet which are both used, the voices of the children produce a grand, inspiring sound, such as " the voice of many w:Uers ; " then the benediction closes the PHILADELPHIA. 149 service. In retiring, the scholars receive the illustrated Sunday school paper named, " Our Paper,'' with the appropriate heading — "And He led them out as far as to ISethany, and He lifted up His hands and blessed them." A short prayer meeting is held, attended by teachers, friends, and the more serious scholars. The teacher sometimes linger in the class-rooms praying with and for their scholars. Who can estimate or speak of results in Sunday school teaching like this? It is truly "a work of faith and labour of love." There is a fine library connected with the Bethany school, but no books are given out or exchanged on Sunday ; this is done during the week. The Sunday evening in Bethany has its large evangelistic meeting. Nor is this all ; there is regular visitation through the week by the teachers among the absentees. This part of Sabbath school work is most important, and in Bethany it is not neglected. " Reward tickets" .are given to the cliildren for acting as "workers" in connection with the school in bringing new scholars to the classes. The attendance is marked and kejit by a system of quarterly cards, one of which is held by every scholar. On entering the school this card is punched like our tramway car ticket opposite the day and date. The system is a good one ; it helps to increase the attendance at school, while, the (quarterly "Attendance Cards" go far in training the children to punctuality and regular habits so useful in after life. When a boy leaves the Bethany school and goes to a trade or profession, his master knowing about the " Attendance Cards" asks him for some of these, and is able to judge somewhat of the boy's habits and what he is likely to be at his trade or profession if engaged. We would commend this very attractive and useful system of " Reward Tickets" with great sympathy and affection, as we do the quarterly " Attendance Cards," to the superintendents, teachers and friends whoFe work is among the children of our Mission Schools at home. It is a capital training to the young ; by this means they learn under the glow of their young life to form regular habits and to become the powerful advocates of their own missions. CHAPTER XV. FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEWARK'. r\^ life and its associations in the Quaker City we saw much ^-^ to praise and little to blame. The common sins of humanity peculiar to a large city, it is true, are apparent in Philadelphia, but the many good things we saw there live in our mind while the bad fade and are forgotten. An early breakfast, and we took leave of the city for Newark, in the State of New Jersey, where we made a short stay with a friend before visiting New York, the great business metropolis of the United States. The morning was rather cold and chilly, but a bright brilliant sun emerging from the bosom of the horizon, glittering and radiant in floods of light, soon shed a genial warmth comfort and beauty on all things below. Nothing is more lovely or delight- ful in America in the early morning than the appearance of the rising, gleaming, smiling, sun. During our travels we often gazed on a sunrise or sunset with feelings of admiration ; and in recalling those glowing scenes of crimson beauty, even a prosaic Scotchman begins to grow romantic and sentimental. The distance between Philadelphia and Nev/ York is ninety- two miles, but Newark is twelve miles nearer, so that we had only eighty miles of a journey at this stage. We passed large towns, villages, and summer resorts, and crossed rippling waters, streams, and rivers by fine bridges, but saw nothing worthy of notice till we came to Trenton, thirty-five miles north-east of Philadelphia, and fifty seven miles from New York. Trenton is a place of some importance ; it is the State capital of New Jersey, with a population of 24,000, and pleasantly situated on the left bank of the river Delaware. " It is from every point of view," FROM PinLADEI.nilA TO XFJVARk'. 151 said a fellow traveller, " well laid out ; the streets and buildings are handsome, and the different operations of manufacturing carried on very extensively." The town is a place of historical fame, celebrated for a victory gained by (General \\'ashington over the British, December, 1776. Ten miles firther on we reach Princeton Junction, where a brancli line three miles in length goes off to Princeton, the seat of the Presbyterian College of the same name. Princeton is the most celebrated seat of learning in America ; it is finely situated on a wooded ridge, and visible from the Junction. It excels in literary and historical interest ; here, also, Wasliingtcn gained a victory over the British, in the war of the Revolution, about a month later than at Trenton. In the cemetery near the College buildings lie buried Aaron Burr, Jonathan Edwards, and other eminent divines. At present the distinguished Dr M'Cosh is president of the College at Princeton. The doctor is known as an eloquent author and theologian. He is a Scotchman, an Ayrshire man, and, as a friend has remarked, " a Scotchman to the backbone." He has been many years in America, but the more advanced theology and customs of the new country have in no way influenced him to wander from the " old paths." In speaking on matters of faith and freedom, Dr. M'Cosh does not trim his sails in the direction of the "advanced party," whose critical and scientific knowledge now so agitate the currents of theological thought. Nay verily ! he strongly takes the defensive and repressive side of things. Before his eyes the sunbeams of modern light play in vain. He is suspicious of the temper and tone of the Neo- Evangelical school, and has no patience with advanced thinkers, professors, and preachers. In effect, he says to such, " Separate yourselves, constitute a new denomination, and wither away." This shows the doctor's religioi i temperament and how he counsels ; but his sayings are severely criticised both on this and on the other side of the Atlantic. To many theologians the doctors counsels on matters of faith and doctrine appear unwise, altogether out of keeping with the history and conception of 152 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. things in that great Republic which \", the clearest and grandest proof in the life and movement of a great people, that in the reign and region of a living Christianity, faith is compatible with an advanced theology, and all freedom of opinion. Truly we live in agitating changeful times in the theological world. It would, however, be out of place and away from the aim of this book to linger and comment ; besides, it would savour too much of presumption on our part. But whatever may be our opinions, respecting advanced thinkers, professors, and preachers, candid discerning readers, who follow their own convictions, as tliey watch the course of events, will not hesitate to say that on no hypothesis can it be deemed wise to " cut off," or to censure men who are under trial, for this would be to i)rejudge their case, and injurious to the cause of truth, because contrary to all reason, and christian forbearance. Everywhere, in every land there is a growing feeling in favour of doctrinal review and reform ; but, alas ! theories long received, articles and confessions, are stubborn t/iings, not to be meddled with ; and as to folding them up and putting them on the shelf as " relics of the past," that can never be, till the ecclesiastical war-drum has ceased to beat in the camp, and the spiritual army has advanced and developed into a larger, newer, and nobler whole. But is not the Captain Himself leading the way ? The creeds and essentials of one age are often but the bondage of another. Not that the writer undervalues creeds and essentials, as bonds in the unity of a common faith ; rather does he appreciate them and hold to them, but why should the whole advancing world not advance in "faith and freedom?" Does not the moral being of men respond to this ? As time rolls on, and the Christian Church, recognising more the living verities of faith, becomes more obedient, true, and loyal, post-canonical theories, doctrines, documents, will have their place in the rear, not in front, and life thus quickened and expanded, will grow into unity of a purer deeper in-born faith, and into greater power and freedom of knowing the hidden things. Is not this something FROM PHILAJ)El.PHJA TO NEWARK. 153 like the principle of becoming wise ? The mission of truth to this world is of onward march ; and though for a time it may be darkened, beclouded, and in bondage, it will yet stand forth, and in its changed garments will shine, guiding the true and faithful successively on to a higher s[)iritual realm and to the final harmony of all things. But this is a digression, and possibly for the reader we may have tarried too long. We turn from our digression then with a word of cheer to all on the battle-field of reform, who in the ranks of the Church militant, bravely fight following their Leader, waving the flag of faith and freedom, whether in Rome. Geneva, America, Lambeth, or Scotland. Leaving Princeton Junction, we reach New Brunswick, on the river Baritan — a fine growing town of 20,000 inhabitants, said to have the largest india-rubber manufactories in America. I-Yom New Brunswick, passing several small places, we come to " P^lizabeth City," a handsome town, with a population of 26,000 whose public and private buildings ar? remarkably elegant, neat, and comfortable. Elizabeth City is a favourite resort, largely inhabited by people retired from active life, and business men from New York. We now arrive at Newark, where we break the journey, spend some time with a friend who had recently settled here from Glasgow. He was glad to see us, to have the news from Old Scotland. But how precarious is life ! Three months after my visit to Newark, the news followed me that the " sable chariot" had carried him to his long home. Around Newark we found a large district well-wooded and very beautiful. I had a letter of introduction to Mr. Thomas Russell, agent of the large firm of John Clark, Jun., & Co, Glasgow. Mr. Russell was kind enough to take us to his fine house at Mount Clair, a lovely spot five miles from Newark. Here we stayed a night, and have pleasant memories of the kindness and hospitality of both Mr. and Mrs. Russell. In the evening we accompanied Mr. and xMrs. Russell to their weekly church meeting. There was a good attendance ; the people looked very respectable and devout. The minister himself was from home : the gentleman who 154 AMERICA A XI) THE AMERICANS. presided, after ten minutes' address, " threw the meeting open," thus giving an opportunity for any one present to say a few words or to lead in prayer as he might fe "1 inclined. IJeing a stranger we were called upon by the presiding gentleman to say something, and had pleasure in agreeing to his request. After the service Mr. Russell and another friend took us through the church, which is a model of its kind. There was the appearance of every com- fort and every convenience for carrying on Sunday Schools and other religious instruction. But to give the reader some idea of Newark ; it is a city and port of New Jersey, nine miles from the Hudson, situated on the west bank of the Passaic river, with a population of about 1 15,000. Many of the buildings are handsome, the town is industrious, celebrated for its extensive manufactories of leather, boots, shoes, clothing, hats, jewellery, &c. There are several fine Churches in Newark, Schools, Banks, and other establishments. The principal street is two miles long, 130 feet wide, pleasantly shaded by large trees, which a little before our visit were "beautiful in golden, scarlet, and crimson foliage." In the State of Nev; Jersey, as indeed in almost every State in America, there are to be seen many fine residences, many elegant villas, with plots of ground and beautiful gardens, finely laid out and tastefully kept. The houses are largely of wood, but when well " fixed " look neat and comfortable. \Vood is very plentiful in America and more easily worked than stone, and from the speedy way of doing things in the Slates, we need not wonder that so many wooden houses are erected. We asked the gentle- man whose name has been mentioned, " Are you not afraid of fires in these wooden houses ? " The reply was, " We are accustomed to them, and fewer accidents occur than you would expect." We recollect, however, in two or three places hearing at night the portentous sound, " Fire, fire I " and on going to the street saw the bright flames glowing and blazing with infuriated rage. But after all, as Mr. Russell remarked, fewer accidents happen than one would expect. FROM PHI [.A DEI r HI A TO NEWARK. 155 The features of the State of New Jersey are varied — some portions of the country are hilly, and others flat and sandy sloping to the sea. The climate is milder here than in some parts of America, the soil is very rich, and the country round is considered very healthy, except in some of the flat and marshy parts. Very good cultivation may be seen in the State of New Jersey ; there are some fine farms here, yielding splendid crops of maize, wheat, oats, potatoes, &c. In a good season plums, apples, peaches, grapes, and garden commodities are very plentiful. Of late, farming has not been so "run after," in America, and waste land can be had much cheaper than it could some years ago. A gentleman well-known to the author, who went out from Glasgow, bought a hundred acres, intending to farm it ; but owing to family circumstances after a time had to leave the country ; he says he could scarcely get his land sold at any price ; at last before coming home he had to dispose of it for a mere trifle. It should be stated that the 100 acres referred to, were undrained, and not particularly rich in (juality, and farmers in buying land care only for the best. Consequently a traveller will see large tracts of land lying in its virgin state. We were greatly pleased with our visit to Newark. From there Mr. Russell accompanied us to New York. As we sat on the car, a newsagent came " on board " with a bundle of papers, etc., some of which sold readily. " Listen," said a " smart-looking like " gentleman to another. Here is an article headed, " A friendly word to smokers." Then he commenced to read, " Tobacco is a slow poison," but was interrupted by his friend who began strong- ly to animadvert on the article as having been written by a silly man, " I guess, I don't believe a word of it," said he, " or a vast number in America are in a bad way." The use of tobacco is very prevalent in the United States, much more so than in this country ; quite as much as in Germany. Cigars are more generally used than pipes ; those who can't afford cigars resort to chewing. Dickens in his " American Notes " refers to this foul habit, but as we think, from our experience, in a somewhat 156 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. & exaggerated sense. Smoking tobacco is bad enough, but chewing is highly injurious and to be condemned and objected to en many grounds. Yet in America this objectionable habit — so foul and impure — is among all classes almost universal. This is clear- ly indicated, for, everywhere in the residences and homes of the people spitoons are seen in every room ; in the public rooms in the Western districts these utensils are placed in every available corner. In hotels and places of public resort they are in great abundance ; they are much larger than the small " toy-like-aftair " used in this country. Notices are hung on the walls requesting visitors to use the spitoon, and not to si)it on the floor. But not- withstanding, the floors suffer from tobacco chewinij. Even in the Capitol tobacco stains are seen on the floors in almost every chamber, hall, or room of the building. Chevving is a popular habit in the higher, as in the lower social life of America, every- body seems to practise it as a luxury or indulgence which they seemingly cannot do without. " Alas ! " it may be said, " for the habits of the Yankee people." But if the Americans smoke and chew tobacco to a much greater extent than we do in this country they are rarely seen with "the snuff-box." Snuffing is certainly not believed in America to be a condition or " mark of grace," as it was with the old elder away in the Highlands, in the story told by Dr. Aird the venerable moderator of the Free Church. The story is to this effect : — In the old days of patronage a minister was placed over the parishioners of Alness, much against the wishes of some of them. Commencing his ministrations the good minister, as may be imagined, was coldly received by his objectors. He began his visitations among the people, and one day called upon an elder, who greeted him very grufily. The minister however, took a chair, and in a little while took out his snuff-box, ' Oh,' said the elder, ' ye tak snuff, dae ye ? ' ' Oh, yes.' ' Wee),' said the elder ye maun be guid after a,' but that's the first mark o' grace I've seen in ye.' ' How do you make that out ? ' asked the minister. FROM PHILADELPHJA TO NEWARK. 157 ' Dae ye no read in the sacred book o Solomon's temple,' replied the elder, 'that a' the snuffers were o' pure gold?' According to this story snuffing takes " the shine out of smoking." At all events the snuff-box stood the minister good service when, as "a mark of grace," it so changed the opinions of his elder. In America snuff is almost unknown ; even the tobacconists do not keep it; in some States it can only be obtain- ed from the chemist, and when i)urchased is found to be "as dry as dust, with no pungency or effect." CHAPIKR XM. NEif ]UA'A', IIIK MErKOPul.lS Ul- AMERICA. IVj EW YORIv is a stupendous city, of indescribable interest. I congratulated myself on coming within view of this great commercial metropolis. The first sight of the city suddenly recalled certain youtliful imaginations that had entered our dreams, but the peculiar emotion with which we strained our eyes in looking at things cannot easily be described. Of the magnitude and activity of the place we had no idea. The morning of our arrival was fine ; the sky was full of freshness, beauty, and charm. Not a cloud dimmed its brightness ; and though the "American fall " was well through, as the day advanced, and the glowing sun ascended the bright blue canopy of heaven, i)ouring down its lustrous rays, we felt the heat at mid-day as great as with us in the old country at midsummer. We stayed for some time in New York, and retain grateful memories of friends who assisted in making our visit to the city very pleasant. To all, but partic- ularly to George Douglas, Es([., Rev. (i. 1). Matthews, I). I)., Messrs. Russell, Stuart, Service, and Scott, we here record our grateful thanks. He and his good wite kindly invited us to make their house our home while in New York ; and the genial hospitality, courtesy, and kinduess of that Christian family, we will not soon forget. New \'ork, we have said, is a stujjendous city, the largest in the United States, a city of commercial magnificence and of first importance in the civilized world. It has been often described, but friends interested in it must see for themselves, for the best description is inadecpiate ; indeed it is not possible to convey to those at a distance anything like a full and correct idea of the i6o AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. character and condition of a place of such magnitude and resources. The city is built on Manhattan Island, a long strip, thirteen and a-half miles in length, with an average breadth of fully a mile and a-half, comprising an area of twenty-two square miles. On the west side is the far-famed Hudson. On the opposite side is the East-Rivt:r, dividing New York from Long Island, on which is situated the fine city, lirooklyn, with its handsome buildings, high spires, fine churches, residences, avenues, and parks. The population of New Vurk, is nearly a million and a half, and adding Brooklyn, it is nearly two million and a half, nearly three times the size of Glasgow. For some time past commerce and trade have been unusually perplexing. There have been of late years a great number of heavy failures in this city. The success of many of the large firms has dis- appeared : many a disappointed idealist sits in despair, feeling his misfortune a burden too heavy to bear. But from the week- ly review of trade, we find that the markets and things in general are now considerably improved. As to the streets and aveuues of New York, — the avenues run I'araliel with the length of the island ; the streets cross at ri-ht angles, and extend from river to river. The names are painted on the lamp-i:'OSts, to which are attached pillars for posting letters. The whole arrangement of the streets is admirable, and though New York be such an immense place, a stranger can find his way about with little trouble. Some of the principal avenues are over ten miles in length, by a hundred feet in breadth, finely shaded with trees, growing on the sidewalks, In a hot summer day the trees look pictures(iue and refreshing, but .it the time of our visit the falling leaves were suggestive of ccniing winter and of winter near at Inunl. The streets are everywhere i)usy : tb.e great jiromenade thoroughfare is r>roadway. It is a wonderful street of show and bustle, movement and activity, and taken altogether, as Thackeray and Dickens both say, is the finest street of any city in the world. It is five miles in length, incessantly crowded, as 0.\ford Street, I'iccadily, or Fleet Street, London. X£ir ]t;A'A'. i6t and is at every hour of the day a scene of great attraction to strangers. What a bustle ! It is just one stream of ceaseless excitement. The stones on the pavement are polished witli the tread of the feet. Tramways are not i)ermitted in Broadway, but omnibuses, carriages, and oth.er vehicles are in abundance. As in France the horses and vehicles pass each other to the opposite side from with us in the old country. It is very difficult to steer through the cri)wd. On several occasions we could not but admire the sagacity of the horses and the cleverness of the drivers in making their way. On these omnibuses in Broadway there are no conductors. The driver opens and shuts the door by a strai) for the i)urpose. Payment is made on ente- ng tiie 'bus through a slip into a box near the driver. I'he tramway cars which run on the avenues employ conductors. The cars and omnibuses are showily i)ainted : there arc no outside seats, and for this reason, in summer it is too hot and in winter it is too cold. The peoi)le of New York are a "moving people,"' life is tuned to one key of hurry, bustle, excitement, con- sequently the cars and omnibuses are always tilled ; so are stages and steam-ferries, which ply almost night and day, carrying thousands of passengers from one place to another. 1 he ferry- l)oats too are very busy. How rapidly they fill, especially to- wards evening, crossing to Brooklyn, where a large immber of the business men of Xew York have then- ([uiet. comfortable, attractive homes, 'ihese ferry-boats are of great si/.e, and are well managed. The centre is reserved for horses and vehicles, while the sides are partitioned off and fitted up as cabins fur l)assengers. The river between New ^'ork and Brooklyn is about a cjuarter of a mile wide. A great viaduct spans it. ** What a mighty project," I remarked to a Yankee. " U'hat a spirit of enterprise to attempt such a work,"' " I guess,'' said he, "there was long a difficulty in the way."' " Was the pnjject found to le nigh impossible ? "' I asked. " Some dispute," he replied, " or want of money.' There are no underground railways in Xew York as in London, but there is an " Elevated Railway " running II 1 62 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. in the middle of one of the streets, half as high as the houses. This railway adventure, is set up on iron girders and supports, bridging the whole of the roadway of the street, or running above the foot-way upon either side on a level with the second floor of ELEVATtI) RAILWAY. the i)uilding. It appeared to us as the train went rattling, whistling, hissing past within two yards of the window where we were sitting to be a noisy, risky, dangerous operation. ]]ut we were informed " the run ' was safe enough, convenient, and use- ful, liut such a railway must be a great nuisance and mustcnor- NEIV YOJiA'. 163 mously depreciate the value of proj)erty, if not utterly spoil it. It is because of its immense public convenience that the citizens so peacefully agree concerning it. There are in New York many conspicuous buildings, large and lofty structures built of iron, stone, brick, marble and granite. The finest arc the Insurance Offices, and City Hall, the Opera Houses, IJusiness ICstablishments, Banks, Hospitals, and Benevo- lent Institutions. There are also si)lendid Churches, Universities, Academies, Schools, etc. Among the ''Stores" Stewart's whole- sale and retail establishment is a magnificent place. It is built of cast iron, highly ornamented in imitation of (irccian architec- ture, and painted snowy white. This business erection occupies an entire block ; if all its floors were in one it would cover fully ''•fteen acres of ground. The inside is handsomely and elaborate- ly furnished ; the warerooms are lofty, spacious, well-lighted, well-heated, and in every respect models of arrangement. Every- thing about this establishment betokens fabulous wealth. The most extensive jewellery "store" is Tiffnay's, and as the Yankees, of both sexes, are fond of jewellery, a vast number of dollars must be turned over in this establishment. In a great number of these large business " stores '' and other establish- ments of a social, benevolent, and religious kind we were pleased to meet with a Scotchman at the head of affairs. But, as the Americans say. in New ^'ork things are a good deal " mixed," so we found Englishmen, (lermans, Italians, I-rench, and Irish in many of these establishments and institutions, and some of them of equal character, position, and influence with our own fellow-countrymen. It may be asked— How do the diversities of race and things so " mi.xed " affect the manners, customs, dress and fashion of the people ? Well, we had an opportunity of seeing something of fashionable life, in busy, bustling, gay New York, Dress, manners, and fashion supply material for much amusement, study, and reflection ; among both sexes there is endless variety. The American-born gentlemen who are able, follow the customs and fashions as imported from fashionable i64 A^n:RlCA axd tiie jmekicaxs. life. The " young gentlemen of the period " dress in style, with a great display of linen, a broad turned-down collar, a tastefully adjusted neck-tie, cultivated whiskers, a gold ring, a showy watch- guard, and of course a cigar. \'es ; the young gentlemen of New York are gentlemen of " the period." They dress well, they follow the fashion, they are stylish. Dut in this respect we need hardly say that the young ladies in fashionable society far surpass them. Among the " ui)[)er ten '' some of tl.e American ladies are said to be " outrageous exhibitions '' of effective dressing. With the exception, however, of these exhibitions of. " loud fashion,"' the usual attire of New York ladies is showy, but neat and in good taste. If we dare venture a comparison, American ladies are smart, refined, and sufticiently pretty, though smaller and paler, than ladies in the old country. It has been said " they do not make good wives.'"' This all depends. At all events, the gentlemen of America are not afraid to speculate in their direction ! If we may judge from what we saw, there are many well-managed, bright, attractive, comfortable homes in America, where — " Love hath happy hours which rise, O'er earth, as over paradise." '• I guess had it not been for my sweet loving wife," said an American io me, '" I could not have borne uj) under my disappointments and mistortunes of late." How true it is as many will say — *' The man who weds a loving wife, Whate'or l>etide h.im in hi> life, Shall hear up under all."" New York in itself to sight-seers is not found very interesting. Hut there are a number of places of attractive, convenient resort in the city. Among these some fine squ. res in the very centre of the town, which are o[)en at all times for the people to come and rest and enjoy themselves among trees, shrubs, and flowers. I'rom one of these S(iuares we fmd our way to the Central Park, A'/iir YoA'h: i6; so called because situated in the centre of Manhattan Island, although as yet in the west end of the city. It was afternoon. What a number of vehicles are dashing along, of different shapes, colours, sizes, and all light and handsome, and drawn by finely- matched, sprightly horses. " Anything special this afternoon," we cntjuired. Nothing special, yet the scene wa . just like May- fair. The park is two and a-half miles in length, three-quarters of a mile in breadth, with an area of nearly 900 acres beautifully laid out in broad drives, long avenues, neatly-kept footpaths, winding among trees and thickets, the shade of which is very agreeable and refreshing under the hot sun of an American summer. Here and tliere are statues and busts of Shakespeare, Scott, Burns, and other gifted men, graceful fountains playing and sparkling, and beautiful lakes, upon whose placid waters in summer pleasure skilTs are iii abundance, and skaters in winter. The whole park presents a lively, pleasurable, and highly-fashionable scene. This jiark is the great boast of New Yorkers ; a visitor should not miss seeing its magnificence and style, its vivacity, beauty, and aristocratic display. It cost two million dollars, and is not inferior to the Bois de IJoulogne of Paris. From the Central Tark, accompanied by a citizen, we went and saw the harbour and its surroundings. The harbour is of immense size ; it is crowded with large vessels, steamers, ban pies, tugs, and boats, of all sorts and sizes. Like Broadway, it exhibits a scene of intense traffic and confusion ; it shows the most remarkable shipping capacity of any harbour in any i)art of the globe. On the Hudson side, its surroundings are by no means inviting. Market sheds and provision houses line the piers ; goods and wares of every mentionable description are laid out for purchasers and passers by ; the streets and lanes are here badly paved, ill kept, overcrowded with stands, basket-, barrels, casks, and a niulti[)licity of things, so that it becomes quite a serious business to get along at certain hours of the day. Leaving the harbour we are next taken to some of the low or l€6 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. poorer districts of the city. In these localities we must say the social and moral condition of the com.munity is not flattering, but low enough. It is a familiar saying, that " One half of the world knows not how the other half lives." Especially is this true of communities like New York, where society is marked off by sharp distinctions of poverty and wealth, and where the poor make up more than one half of the population. We had no idea of the amount of poverty, vulgarity, and vice to be witnessed in the lower districts of New York, till we visited these neigh- bourhoods. In Broadway and in other streets and avenues everything is attractive, imposing, and elegant, betokening wealth and magnificence ; but in the streets, alleys, and lanes there is a background of misery, vice, and sham.e. A stranger walking casually through the main thoroughfares of New York does not see the distressing aspect of affairs. It is in the low neigh- bourhoods, towards night, that the desolate, the demoralised, the drunken, and the vicious are to be seen sauntering about in large numbers as in the wynds of Glasgow and closes of Edinburgh. In wandering through those far-off sights, Near where the Hudson's waters flow, We saw in many a face the blights Of sorrow, weakness, want, and woe. Of the woes, the sorrows, aA the vices that abound, the one great cause is drink ! " What an evil it is in our cities," says one, speaking of a friend who had fallen through intemperance. Yes ! the drink is the great evil of almost every city. In New York very much is being done through Christian philanthropic agencies to help the needy and the unfortunate to put this drink temptation out of the way. We were greatly pleased in visiting the Hospitals, Infirmaries, Asylums, Reformatories, Missions, Schools, and educational Seminaries of New York. Many of these Institutions are very large, and well worthy of a visit. Some of them are not so dis- tinguished as others, but in all of them there are signs of attention, NEIV VORR'. 167 and evidences of care, health, and good management. They are upheld mostly by city funds, and regularly appointed officials superintend their affairs and report annually, or as called for in cases of change, complaint, or dispute. A visit to the Bible and Trn'-t Societies also pleased us very much. Both institutions are large, both doing valuable work in United States, and in many other parts of the globe where American missionaries labour. Indeed, we don't know that it would be far beside the mark to affirm that no institution across the Atlantic is accomplishing more real permanent good than the Bible and Tract Societies. Each society has its own field and character ; each is spreading wholesome truth, and through the missionaries, reaching multitudes in far-off lands now untaught in the way of life. As a religious institution, the Mid-day Fulton Prayer Meeting is known the v.'orld over. This meeting is held in a hall in Ful- ton Street, conducted much the same as the Glasgow or Edin- burgh noon meeting, with this exception, that the exercises of prayer are briefer, never exceeding more than two or three minutes. Requests for prayer come from all parts of the United States. Flirnest people, merchants, men of business feel it to he a good thing to come here for an hour at mid-day ; they return to their business and homes carrying into their respective duties increased strength and joy. An important auxiliary in the moral sphere of things in New York is the Young Men's Christian Association. Too much could hardly be said in praise of this flourishing institution. It is doing a grand and truly noble work among young men, help- ing them socially, physically, intellectually, -nd above all, spiri- tually. The building stands on Twenty-third Street, corner of Fourth Avenue, and cost ;i^6o,ooo. It is a large, handsome erection, five stories high, with numerous apartments, including halls, lecture-rooms, offices, etc. All are under the management of earnest men for the best education of the city. Many young it',S AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. men in New \'ork have received good by coming to these rooms ; many have gone to their homes singing in their hearts, " Awny ye false, delusive snares, Wiiii tcin]itcrs of tlie mind ; "Tis here I fix my youthful choice, And here true bliss I find." According to a programme put into my hands there is divi- sion of labour among the young men at the head of the Associa- tion. The duties of some are of a social kind, others more literary, others again are of a musical nature, etc., and so on, dividing the work. A favourite verse in the Association is this : " Oh ! that each, in the day of His coming, may say, I have fought my way through ; I have llnished the work Thou didst give me to do, Oh ! that each from his Lord may receive the glad word, Well and faithfully done ! Enter into my joy and sit down on my throne." It is calculated that over eight hundred persons enter the rooms of the Association every day, and that upwards of one hundred thousand come to the reading room every year. CHAPTER XVII. NFAV YORK', fTS PROGRAM ME, COVERiXMENT, AXD /.VSy/Tl'T/OAW. A DISTINGUISHED lecturer discoursing recently on morals in New \'ork, said " The sin of this large and ever- expanding city is ambition, gold, trickery, pretension, show," and, he added, " tliis I fear, may not be a comfortable reflection for some in this audience." The lecturer is an eminent American orator, one that is always faithful in the delivery of his message. As to the audience we cannot judge, although, according to the law of probability, the remark was doubtless very fitting and well- timed ; at all events, if apjjlied to the programme and aim of New York, there is much truth in it. Eor New York, of all cities, is one terribly taken up with, and engrossed in the affairs of time. And while there are not a few merchants and men of business of high and estimable character, who live above the low view of simply i;etting rich in the world, yet, speaking generally. New York is engrossed and literally immersed in worldly avoca- tion and strife. Her social attainments are " pleasure, wealth, and position." What a blessing that Sunday comes round, draw- ing aside the veil, letting in the light of higher thoughts upon the soul! But what is the programme of the merchants and busi- ness men of New York ? Well, certainly, it is not concealed ; it is short but expressive; it is this : "To buy, sell, and get gain." That is without question the programme of New York city. It is an old one, and very comprehensive. It carries in it the pur- pose of that superlative luxury which seeks to overawe right liv- ing by fictitious grandeur. It is considered by many in " high places" to express the right view of life; hundreds and I70 AMERICA AXD THE AMERICANS. thoi'sands are living commentaries upon it. What does the reader think? A friend says, " That programme, seriously viewed, is as a ring enclosing the horizon of the mind, beyond which there is no throb of life." Suggestive observation ! And so it is true that the men, instead of absorbing, are absorbed by the "lower things" of life, and show that their faith is not a Divine m- spiration, and is from below rather than from above. There is a dangerous materialism abroad in America, running through all the States ; especially is this felt in New York city, where so many live as if "the almighty dollar" were the great end and aim of existence. But who can live and draw comfort from such a programme? Yet, it is the boast of thousands, the sum total of whose life is, "To buy and sell, and get gain." But it is said the world over, " Business is business," and so says the New Yorker; he goes on engrossed and immersed in worldly affairs ; his mind gets confused and dark, turning its own way, following after mammon — which, in the end, is often to his "great harm and loss." At the time of my visit to New York, the city was astir with the ferment of some " new and great ideas," as to the local administration of affairs. Reform was urgently called for. Read ing men know that the government of New York has never been in good repute. To quote the words of an imperial writer, "The government of New York, from clear trustworthy records, kept by those who have watched the life of the city from strongest motives of public and private interests, has not been popular among the people ; the reason is that its policy has been too elastic, too commercial and selfish, and hence, honest men have always had difficulty in office, and many because of the corruptions allowed and practised have stood aloof from politics altogether, and those who know the real state of affairs can well understand for themselves and judge." This state of things is unfortunate for the interests of truth and justice, but such, we believe, is the case. I remember one day conver- sing with a merchant of good position in New York, who re- NE'\' VOKA: ■ lyi marked to me, in words like these, "While it would be unwise and misleading to credit all you hear as to the character and mechanism of our legislature, it is only too true that its policy has not tended to give moral influence and dignity to the city." 'I'he very day after this remark was made, I read an article of considerable ability in a respectable, well-conducted newspaper, charging some of the city officials with deception and fraud ; and speaking 3f this article to a New Yorker, he said, "It points, I guess, to the perils of the city." Every now and then cases of dishonesty come to light, and often in connection with "powers that be,"' and the administration of affairs. But why don't the citizens rise up and combine to suppress, and put down the evils referred to ? This has been tried, but it is not an easy matter to approach " the powers that be," and to remonstrate with them; like everything else of an evil nature, an evil government trans- mits and perpetuates its policy and keeps itself only wide-awake to any programme of the people on the part of justice, righteous- ness and integrity. Then it must be considered that to rise up and combine against " the powers that be," would be treated as a grievous wrong, and followed by very serious consequences. Besides, what is the fact ? Is it not that American law is tor often at the disposal of men whose " leanings " are to the side which promises the surest and highest reward? Here is the draw- back, and this in some measure explains the difficulty which honest citizens have in grappling with, and putting down, the sins and wrongs of " high places." But in thus speaking of the evils in the programme and govern- ment of New York, it must not be imagined that the Americans are alone to blame. By no means ; for New York is not an American city ; at least it is not a fair specimen of one. It is thoroughly cosmopolitan in life and character. Foreign elements are here strong and influential, and as the result, the government is largely held and controlled by foreign power. Whether this be of advantage or disadvantage may be a matter of opinion ; but the fact should not be overlooked, or we shall grievously mis- 172 AMERICA AXn THE AMERICANS. judge and wrong our i\merican friends. And further, ihis also should be remembered, that the errors and evil practices of "high places " are not peculiar to one city, people, or country. Repre- sentative autliority everywhere has its defects, for humanity is cveiywhere much the same. As a peojile, we have been accus- tomed in this country to criticise and to look beneath the surface of things. Healthy criticism is a most desirable thing. Nothing influences society more ; nothing shapes and matures opinion better. In the politics and government of a country, criticism is all important. The point here is that in whatever country we have men at the helm of affairs of weak moral principle, and of selfish policy, they will blunder, fall into error, and in matters of the highest interest involve themselves and others ; and of this, alas, we have but too many proofs at home. In New York we hear that the " local government "' is redeeming itself. The tidings which reach our shore are hopeful and sh.ow a calmer trust in the integrity and wisdom of " the powers that be," than a few years ago. " Wiser men,"' it is said, "have recently been elected to office;'' if anything is needed among rulers it is wisdom. The wise man hath said " Wisdom is better than weapons of war." The people of this great city may soon expect the fountains of justice and judgment to become purified and en- lightened. As this is brought about, a higher morality will be diffused throughout New York, and fraud and corruption, we may expect, will be overthrown. Reading the history of politics and warfare in a country, we see that the only safeguard of a nation is high-minded conscientiousness, strict integrity, and loyalty to i)rinciple. In keeping with this idea, a most expressive prayer is found in the books of the Common Council of the city, which we here insert. The prayer is as follows : — " We beseech thee, O Thou who art the fountain of all good gifts, (jualify us by Thy grace that we may with fidelity and righteousness serve in our rcs[)ective ofificcs. To this end en- lighten our darkened understandings, that we may be able to distinguish the right from the wrong, the truth from the false- NEW YOA'k'. 173 hood ; and that we may give pure and uncorrui)ted decisions, having an eye open to Thy Word, a sure guide, giving to the simple wisdom and knowledge. Let Thy law be a light to our feet, and a lamp to our path, so that we may never turn away from the path of righteousness. I)ee[)ly impress on all our minds that we are not accountable unto man, but unto (iod, who seeth and heareth all things. Let all respect of persons be far removed from us that we may award justice unto the rich and the poor, unio friends and enemies alike ; to residents and strangers accord- ing to the law of truth, and that not one of us may swerve there- from. And since gifts do blind the eyes of the wise and destroy the heart, therefore keep our hearts aright. (Irant unto us that wo may not rashly prejudic r.ny one without a fair hearing, but that we may patiently he.;: tho parties, and give them time and opportunity for defending themselves in all things, looking up to Thee and to Thy Word for counsel and direction." Such is the prayer found in the records of the Common r uncil of New York. We recommend that it be read by all in authority ; for, as in the kingdom of grace, it is written so in morals " The meek will He guide in judgment, the meek will He teach His way." Some time ago, in a railway carriage, I overheard two gentlemen discussing the skill and ability of the Americans, more particu- larly as seen and illustrated in the science and art of mechanical contrivances. One praised the Americans, spoke highly of iheir good ([ualities, and, in general, of the enterprises of the country. The other, somewiiat doubtlul or more guarded, said, " I grant the Americans are clever : there is an inmiense amount of go about them, but I am not so sure of all you say as to their skill and ability.' \Vell, their motto, as a people, is " Forward;" nor are they easily overcome by the drawbacks and difficulties of their way. A better evidence of this could not be found than in the water works of New York. The undertaking was on a most gigantic scale, and altogether of remarkable contrivance. .\ writer says, "The water woiks ol New Yoik at onie tlnuws 174 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. every other work of the kind into the shade, since the days of the old Roman times." The water question was long a pressing one, but a plan was originated, heartily gone into, and though at first spoken of by many as quite impossible, was undertaken and successfully completed. The water is brought from West Chester, by means of an acjueduct, a distance of forty miles, over valleys and rivers, and through rocks and hills, and is reserved in large reservoirs in the city, which give out a plentiful supply for the whole j)opulation. This a([ueduct took five years to construct, and cost between two and three millions st -''ling, but it stands forth now in the mechanical world an enterprise of wonderful ingenuity, skill, and ability ; of this contrivance the citizens of New York are justly proud. Then the electric telegraph is another illustration and proof of mechanical ingenuity and skill in America. The whole of the United States is " run " with wires. All over the vast territory, in every city and town, the telegraph is largely used. All the offices, hotels, and establish- ments, of any size, have what is called "their despatch." In an establishment in New York, a " smnrt " Yankee said to me, " These appliance-, I guess, are of immense service to us." " No doubt," I replied. " Yery great, sir," said he, " for by their use I guess we know the prices of the London and Manchester markets before you do in Glasgow." " Indeed," said I. " How can that be ? " for the remark was rather a mysterious one at the moment. The explanation is found in the difference between Greenwich time and New York time, there being five hours of difference. For example, say it is 12 noon now in London, it is only 7 a.m. in New York, and so business transacted at 12 noon in London or Manchester, according to the tin»e that a telegraph message takes to cross the Atlantic, would be known in New York at 10 a.m., and therefore, though the remark see ns at first strange, when viewed and explained in this way, it is seen to be in a sense true. The arrangements for signals, in the event of fire breaking out in the city, are admirable. They are wrought on the same principl'j as already described in our impressions on NEIV VOA'A". 175 Chicago, and are known in almost all the large cities and towns in America. The Press of New York, too, shows wonderful ingenuity and skill : it is an agency of mighty power in the cause of industry, commerce, education, and religion. It is so all over the States, but New York is the headquarters of all the publishing and printing business so extensively carried on in America. Eooks, magazines, newspapers, and periodicals, of vast variety abound, and all kinds of literature have an immense issue. As miyht be expected in such a large, mixed city, there are many sensational, pernicious imblications circulated, and many "infidel issues ' sent forth among the people, obviously ensnaring in tone and character, leading the foolish into all kinds of vice and crime. " In the name of society ; in the name of Ciod," said a reformer once, "this must be stopped." It would be good for many a man, many a home, were something done to re[)ress such publi- cations ; yet, repressive measures in this direction are difficult to carry out. But the Press of America is becoming much more enlightened, purer and higher in its tone and character; so, putting the healthy, and good, in literature, against the unhealthy, and bad, the former a thousand times over will over-balance the latter. The Christian press of America is to be commended. It is doing very much to guide and inspire the whole life of that great country. Some of the publishing establishments are con.spicuous buildmgs, of immense si/e, enterprise, and influence. The i)rogress made say during the last thirty years in the working of these e .tablishments has been amazing; all the mternal arrangements, the machinery, the presses, furniture, and fittings, are of the most modern invention, everything as perfect and complete as the highest ingenuity and skill can invent. The various offices and departments of these establishments are airy, well-ventilated, and in every way made comfortable for the workmen. This is important, and those publishers and pro- l)rietors in New York that have regard to the healih and welfare of their cmf>loyccs^ have gained for themselves, as masters, a good 176 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. name, which in these days of strikes, pressure, and disorder, is something to admire. Among the jjrinting and publishing estabhshments of New York, we were greatly interested in the firm known as " Harper and Brothers/' the most extensive of its kind in America, This firm is situated in P'ranklin Square, it employs a vast number of compositors, its machines are of the newest construction, expensive, and ehiborate. \\'e were intro- duced to the editor of Harper's Monthly, well-known, widely circulated, and looked upon with envy by engravers in the old country. One single copy of 11 irpcr's Monthly would cost, if issued alone, over £1000. Its profits are found in its enormous circulation. The editor is a man of very superior intelligence, of a genial frame of mind, an '"enthusiastic admirer of Scotland, a Scotchman.'' We have referred to the more conspicuous buildings of tlie city ; but have said nothing of the restaurants and hotels. These establishments we need hardly remark are very large. We were impressed with tlieir magnitude, their elegance, their com- fort, and convenience. But we reserve what we have to say on hotel life in America for another chapter. We only say in passing what has often been said by travellers, " in no other city of die world is there such hotel accommodation as in New \'( rk." With regard to living in general, it is rather expensive. 'I'he rents of the houses are high. In coiiversation on tliis very subject, a Mr. Scott, at whose house we were spending the evening, asked, " A\'hat would this house rent at in Cilasuow?" "Sav £1^0,"' we remarked. "Ah !" said he, "J pay 2500 dollars." "Yes," and added his wife, "We were glad to get it at tliat." 2500 dollars would be about £500. It was certainly a good house, but a high rent. Middle-class people rent their houses at, say t'250 to £300. Among mechanics and the oi)erative classes, the rent is a serious item in living. Respectable working people pay from £20 to £30 a year. Bricklayers, masons, carpenters, painters, etc., earn about three dollars a day. Now, this may look to some at home "capital pay,"' but all things considtred, a I NEIV YORK. vn good tradesman getting plenty of work, can do as well at home as abroad. Everything depends upon a man's ability, skill, and character. In New York, Chicago, St. Louis, and several other places, we met with families who had gone to America years ago, as poor to-day as when they left home. The Irish are the least successful. They leave Ireland and go to America to better their position, or, as they say, " to escape poverty," but many of them regret ever leaving old Ireland, and look with longing eyes to- wards their native land. The following is given in M'Aulay's notes in America — ■ •' They say there's bread and work for all, And the sun shines always there ; But I'll not forget old Ireland, Were it fifty times as fair. " But these observations only apply, let me say, to that foolish class who go out to America expecting to find gold in the streets, thinking that they will have nothing to do but to gather it and become "rich and great in a day." Alas, for such vain ideas ; fortunes even in America are not so plentiful. An Irishman of the class referred to, is said to have made this remark : "Your Hor )ur. Sir, I have been deceived with the country." Perhaps it would be nearer the truth to say that the country had been deceived with him. It is always a blessing at home when the inactive, the idle, and the foolish, move from our shores, but wherever such people go they find their mistake. It is to this low class of emigrants that the roguery, drunkenness, and crime found in large cities of the United States are to be traced. Simply to go out to America will not improve a man's posi- tion ; therefore our counsel would be that all who are destitute of the qualities which are necessary " to rise in life," should stay at home. In these days of vigorous appliance and close competition in all departments of labour, only hard-workir.g, steady, industrious men, can rise or expect to better their posi- tion in this or in any other country. But well-doing pushing 12 I7S AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. men, emigrating to America are sure to succeed. Many who have gone from the old country have vastly improved their con- dition ; many have made large fortunes, and are now retired, spending their time and strength in helping to guide the institu- tions and the affairs of their adopted country. Before we leave New York, another visit is paid to the harbour to see the shipping, the stir, and bustle on the shore. The. harbour is pre-eminently one of the striking wonders of New York ; there one looks upon a scene of mighty movement, ever throbbing with excitement and noise. The bay resembles a forest ; it is alive with its steamers and steaming engines ; its vessels, with their spread sails and coloured signals from all nations of the world, make it of imposing appearance, and of unprecedented interest. Away in the distance, on Beldoe's island, stands the very conspicuous and famous Statue of Liberty, the figure of a female holding in the one hand a tablet with the date of America's Independence affixed to it, and in the other hand a torch raised over the head with arm erect. This statue is 350 feet above the level of the sea, and said to be as high as the golden cross on St. Paul's Cathedral in London. I.ir.rKTY STATUE, NEW YORK HAKIiULK. CHAPTER XVIII. BROOKLYN— '' THE CITY OF churches:' T N crossing the river to Brooklyn, I was greatly struck with the immense size of the place. Many people imagine that Brooklyn is but a suburb of New York, and a place of small dimensions. What a mistake ! Brooklyn is a great and growing city. It has a population of nearly 600,000, and claims to be one of the finest of American cities. It is the home of many of the foremost, wealthiest, and most gifted men of the United States. Many of the merchants and representative rie;! of New- York have their dwel. gs in Brooklyn. The city is large, and, as the saying is, " It has made for itself a chapter in history." The town is situated on the west end of Long Island. It was founded by the Dutch in 1628, and derives its name from the Dutch, Bnickkn (Brokenland). It is divided into twenty wards, and. has its own civic and municipal arrangement and adminis- tration. The streets and thoroughfares are all broad and long, and filled with cars, carriages, and the usual traffic of busy life. The avenues are beautifully lined with shady trees ; on these avenues stand the fine houses and dwellings of the more wealthy, well-to-do people of the city. The private houses of Brooklyn are far more numerous in proportion to stores and shops, to the size of the place, than any other large city of the United States. As to the design of these, some are of one design and some of another, and painted brown, red, and green, according to taste ; but all are home-like, and if not all classical, are yet elegant, clean, and pleasant to the eye of the passer by. But we should expect Brooklyn to be a fine city, since indeed she is the "daughter city" of New York, separated only from the "mother I BROOKLYN. iSi City by the East River, across which, by the way, a perpetual run of steamers ply morning, noon, and night. On a clear, bright day, it is not a little amusing to watch the traffic of the river. Innumerable vessels and boats, of all sorts and sizes, pass and repiss, and the numbers of people that are constantly crossing from one city to the other are very great. The steamers and boats do their best to keep time. Sometimes we noticed the crossing-steamer just moving away from the ferry as people came rushing to the spot. But there is this comfort, there is never very long to wait, for at the different ferries, boats cross every few minutes. Brooklyn is a city singularly favoured with church privileges ; it bears the name "The City of Churches.'' Everywhere these structures appear, with spires rising all over tlie town in grand array. Many of the churches are large buildings, well designed, and commodious; many of them present to the eye a very fine, very pleasing, and very beautiful blending of order and adjust- ment. The interior is always comfortable, and shows the good taste, the culture, and the wisdom of their architects. Nor are the pulpits filled with ordinary men. The ministers of Brooklyn are of world-wide fame as preachers, theologians, and scholars. The late Rev. H. \V. Beecher, Doctors Talmage, Storrs, Cuyler, Budington, and others, are men of great eminence, whose names are known to the ends of the earth. At the time of our visit Messrs. Moody and Sankey were holding special evangelistic services in the town, and crowds were every night thronging to hear them. The visits of these evangelists to Brooklyn had the countenance and support of nearly all the ministers and many of the distinguished men of the city. At these meetings, say what we luay of them, the community for once were furnished with a proof of Christian fellowship and co-operation. Presbyterians, Congregationalists, Baptists, Episcopalians, and Methodists sat side by side, most cordially uniting in the work, and without a discordant note. Of the churches we may say, in the words of Jerome — " Vox qiddem dissona sed tina religio'" — "Their voices i82 AMERICA AND THE A.VEA'/CANS. are different, but their faith is one." Union among churches of different name is a matter of respect, reverence, and thanks- giving ; and when the flag of religion is thus raised by earnest advocates, the small differences among men and churches soon disappear. Having heard not a little of the fame of the late Rev. H. W. ]5eecher, I was anxious to see his weekly prayer- meeting, and on the evening of the meeting I attended, accom- panied by my friend Mr, Douglas. On entering the hall, a large and highly-respectable audience had assembled. But alas ! it was whispered that Mr. Beecher could not be present. " What a pity," said Mr. Douglas. Yes ! we were sorry, and not a little disappointed. But hush ! the people are drawing together in the fellowship of the Spirit to seek that inspiration which belongs to the great congregation, and which does not belong to us in our solitary meditation. In a few moments a gentleman appears on the platform, gives out a hymn, and all join in singing; then comes a short prayer, and ten minutes' speaking from the platform. After this, singing ; and the meeting is " thrown open " for any that please to take part. But who is the gentleman presiding over the meeting ? It is the assistant pastor of Plymouth Church. " Does he ever preach for Mr. Beecher?" I enquired ; and the answer was, " He may occasionally, but his principal work is in visiting the sick and afflicted." We have said the meeting was " thrown open." This was Mr. Beecher's custom. He took up but a small portion of the hour — say fifteen minutes — and ihe rest of the time was given to the people, and they occupied it well. The subject introduced to the meeting was " Revivals." After Mr. Halliday had spoken, another gentleman spoke, exhorting the Church to pray. Another followed for five minutes, who, resuming his seat, said, " We should like to have a word from any stranger who may be present in our meet- ing." Not intending to speak, I was yet called upon to say something by way of bearing testimony to the work of the Churches at home. The meeting gave attention to a few remarks, and on concluding I remember a gentleman very BROOKL YN. '«3 earnestly prayed for the Churches of his city, and for a great and mighty work to be accomplished in their midst. This prayer brought the hour of meeting to a close, but before the benedic- tion was pronounced, a gentleman said, " Give me a few minutes to state the case of a poor woman who has this day lost her hus- band, and is left a widow with several children in great distress." The gentleman, I understood, was the missionary of " Bethel Mission," where Mr. Beecher's people carried on a work among the poor. The missionary stated the case of the woman very effectively, and produced an impression upon the meeting. " Let the hat go round ! " cried one. This was done, and a large collection taken up. I forget exactly what the collection amounted to, but it was over 150 dollars, greatly to the praise of the people. Leaving the meeting, Mr. Douglas and myself both felt that we had spent a profitable hour with a deeply religious, reverent, earnest people. The hall in connection with Plymouth Church will seat over 600, and that night it was quite full, and besides, a number occupied a side gallery which was thrown open for additional accommodation as the people came in. How privileged the people who had such a man as Mr. Beecher as their minister so long ! How happy the minister who has such a devoted people, and such a weekly prayer meeting ! Plymouth Church, I shall only here add, has long done and is still doing great and truly noble work in Brooklyn, Speaking to a New Yorker of what I saw and heard at this week night service in connection with Plymouth Church, he re- marked, '• it would be a very interesting piece of news for the public if Mr. Beecher's large prayer meeting hall was not filled ; " he then added, " while other pastors and churches have half- empty meetings, Plymouth Church Friday evening meeting is always well attended, often crowded." This gentleman was° as I understood, a member of the Broadway Tabernacle, New York. He spoke of Dr. Taylor, the pastor there, in very high and flattering terms. He said, *' You should go and hear him preach before you leave the city." I replied that I had been in l84 AMERICA AND THE A MEN /CANS. the Dr.'s study the day before, and had had a long and interest- ing talk with him. *' He is a grand preacher," said he, " and a grand representative of your country." Dr. Taylor, I need hardly say, is a Scotchman, well and widely known ; and his church has done an immense deal of good in New York. Dr. Taylor's ministry attracts vast crowds of all classes, who are thrilled by the eloquence of the preacher. But to proceed with our narrative of sight-seeing. Our friend, Mr. Douglas, had arranged that on Saturday morning we should go and see Greenwood Cemetery. It was a pleasant morning, the sky was beautifully clear, without a cloud ; we went by car through the streets ; here and there on our way we got a glimpse of the neighbouring country. During our travels we had visited some of the finest cemeteries in America ; but in point of scenery, view, and beauty, the Greenwood Cemetery surpasses them all. The most graphic pen that ever wrote would fail to convey to a person that had never seen it, the faintest idea of the charming attraction and beauty of Greenwood. It is an ex- tensive place ; acres upon acres are beautifully laid out ; the view on every side is of the most striking, diversified character. A week might be spent here, admiring its beauties and prospects. Walking about, the visitor comes to a grove, then an avenue shaded with trees and shrubbery, then to a broad open green with a fountain and lake in the middle ; in every part of the cemetery there are seen fine monuments, gorgeous tombs, statues, and costly erections of all kinds, raised in memory and honour of the departed, illustrious dead. There are to be seen, also, in every part of this most charming cemetery, beds and rows of most lovely flowers. The woodland thickets, at the time of our visit, were beautifully tinted and lighted up with brilliant hues of yellow, brown, and crimson. Altogether, the Greenwood Cemetery is a most delightful, and really most charming place ; and the Sv ; ery, the sights, and views, are such as are never to be forgotten. But we must not linger in the "city of the dead.' Vv'e return again ^•; car to Brooklyn. The city BROOKL YN. 1S5 looks exceedingly gay. Saturday is the great day for fashionable display. What a number of carriages, fine horses, and handsome ecjuipages I How light these vehicles are ! The wheels seem not thicker than the thin hoops which boys and girls play with in our streets. The driving, too, is so rapid and so exciting. We remarked to Mr. Douglas, " Accidents must be numerous." '' No," he replied, *' they are very rare ; we seldom hear of an accident." In America the large cities all have their pleasure grounds and parks. Some of these grounds and parks are exten- sive, of great variety, and of remarkable taste and beauty. Brooklyn is not behind. The fine Prospect Park of this city will compete with its rivals ; it is laid out on an immense scale, and is of great attraction It has been said " the Americans have neither artistic instinct nor cultivated taste." But this is a great mistake. All over the vast American Continent there are many indications and proofs that the Americans have a special aptitude for artistic design, and a high appreciation of the " beautiful ; " and, as lime rolls on, compliments to the artistic taste of the Americans will not be wanting. As to the social and moral condition of Brooklyn, if we com- pare " The City of Churches," with other cities, it may suffice to say that though poverty, vice, and destitution appear in certain localities, Brooklyn is not so bad, and may be spoken of as a *' socially, well-to-do, wealthy city." The drink question is exciting considerable interest at present. There are many earnest advocates of temperance in Brooklyn. " If the drink were only banished from society," says one, *' humanity would be saved, and life stimulated, transformed, and filled with prosperity and joy." Dr. Cuyler remarks, " They who have courage and faith, and patience to labour on, will yet see brighter and better days." Americans prophecy of their country that " the drink will pass away, and that things will come out right in the end;" and in all their labours for the good of humanity, " praises and appreciation," as says the distinguished Froude, " are their fair due." No one interested in things " pure or lovely " can travel %m AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. long in America, and not feel himself lifted into an atmosphere of larger faith or a more hopeful world. As a people, the Americans are earnest and active in all their undertakings ; they are broadly sympathetic in their views, both as to humanity and doctrine ; and let me emphasize, the majority of them are less worldly and more truly religious than is commonly believed in the old country. One evening, dining with George Scott, Esq., a leading merchant and an active citizen of Brooklyn, the conversation turned on " Work among the Young." I put this question to him, " How do you manage, in connection with your Sunday Schools and Bible Classes, to keep your young people together?" His reply was intensely interesting ; the following is a summary of what he said — " We give our young people something to do. My own experience among the young is that work is necessary. So, most of our Churches have a ' Young People's Association.' This interests the young people in the good work of the Church, and keeps them busy, which is, I guess, very much what is required. The acti\o members of the Association require to hold the doctrinal belief of the said Church where the Associa- tion is part of its organisation. It is not essential to membership that the others should make any statement of their belief, except in Evangelical Churches to hold to the divinity of Christ. The Association, remember, is entirely for young people ; it is under an active president, an earnest man, wide-awake to the require- ments of the yoji g mind. Once a month a " sociable " is held, at which short addresses, recitations, songs, and musical per- formances, are the order of the evening. Old and young are invited ; the meeting is always well attended, and wonderfully interesting. Then, on Monday evening of every week, a young people's prayer meeting is held, which usually goes the round of a certain number of private houses. This meeting for prayer is conducted by the " active committee," but any one wishing may take part in it, either by offering prayer, or by addressing a few words to the audience. Should a stranger be present, he ■r-i BROOKLYN. 187 receives, at the close of the meeting, a hearty shake of the hand, with the remark, 'We are glad to see you, and we hope you may come again.' " Such is a brief summary of Mr. Scott's reply to my question. I was particularly careful to ask him if he ever detected any dan- ger from the spirit of over-zeal, or over-forwardness, or any en- gendering of self-importance as the outcome of these meetings. His reply was, "the danger, I guess, is commonly the other way." "Beginners in religion," he added, "'are in danger of being tongue-tied for life." The late Rev. H, W. Beecher, minister, a man of large experience among young people, would often say, " I dread increasingly the rigid, inelastic formalism which pre- vails in the churches, far more than I dread the defective belief and the over-enthusiasm which many good people so decry in young hearts." A defective belief to begin with, if led on, will grow and mature. Professor Bryce says, "the most imperfect beginnings in things spiritual, often attain U the fullest and highest faith." As to the enthusiasm which many decry in young hearts, they misunderstand it ; lacking it themselves, they condemn it in others. "The most resplendent ornament that can shine on the brow of a young man," says the ancient orator, " is the ornament of enthusiasm." The association referred to, and its operations, must prove a capital training for Sunday School work, and that home evange- listic effort, to which, with a marvellous devotion, many of the young men of our churches now so readily and heartily give their spare time. But in all such meetings the president must be a man of earnest faith, and not that only : he must be possessed of tact and of great good sense, otherwise, the working object of the meetings may disappear, and the opportunities for speak- ing but prove occasions to engender conceit, which is fatal, since it cools enthusiasm and kills the true spirit of our religious and earnest progress in life. CHAPTER XIX. THE LATE REV. H. W. B EEC HER, THE KING OF AMERICAN PREACHERS. A MONG the first questions that a stranger is asked in New ■*■ York city is this : " Have you heard any of our great preachers ? " It was our good fortune to hear several of them. Their presence and eloquent speech are with us still. We heard the late Rev. Henry Ward Beecher, Dr. Hall, and Dr. Talmage, all of them on one Sunday in their own churches ; Mr. Beecher in the forenoon, Dr. Hall in the afternoon, and Dr. Talmage in the evening. Besides, on the same Sunday, early in the morn- ing, we heard Mr, Moody, the famous American evangelist. He happened to be in Brooklyn in the large Rink conducting a series of meetings, assisted by his friend and co-worker, Mr. Sankey ; so, whether for our inspiration in things spiritual, or whether for our good or ill, we were at church on that memorable Sunday from seven in the morning till very nearly ten at night. Truly a memorable Sunday ! Leaving Mr. Moody's service at half-past nine, we made for Plymouth Church, and although there fully three-quarters of an hour early, large crowds had gathered before the door of the great building waiting to get their chance after the regular con- gregation had passed in. The crowds who assembled at the doors of Plymouth Church on Sundays, during Mr. Beecher's lime, were always large, but this Sunday owing to Mr. Moody's early service, at which it was reported there were 10,000 present, the crowds were larger than usual. How glad we were that we had an " order of admission " from Mr. Beecher on Saturday evening. On showing it, we were at once admitted, and con- THE REV. H. \V. FEECHER. 189 ducted to a comfortable seat, the third or fourth in front of the pulpit or rather platform. On our way to Mr. Beecher's, an incident occurred which we cannot but here relate. Passing along one of the streets, I he: rd my name quietly called out, and was not a little astonished. Who can this be? we are far from home; who can know us here? Looking behind me, I saw a smart, smiling boy coming up. Who could he be? I could scarcely believe it, but bravo! he was a little fellow who had recently come from Glasgow, and who had been a scholar in my Sabbath School in that city. He was quite a little boy, but that Sunday morning he had walked six miles to see me. He left home at five o'clock, and thinking that he would meet with me at Mr. Moody's meeting, went there ; but not being successful, he thought he would go to Mr. Beecher's church, and perhaps see me there. I wanted to take the dear boy into church with me to hear Mr. Beecher. But no; he was going to see an uncle which he had in Brooklyn, and off he ran, perfectly delighted that he had seen me in America. His name was Macaulay. May he wear it with honour, and be- come an illustrious representative of the great historian. But now Plymouth Church is filling fast, yet it is half-an-hour to the time. The building is a large, commodious one ; in every way a moi t conJortable house. It has double galleries, and will seat nearly 3000 people. It is well arranged and exceedingly well lighted. The seats are painted white, with a brown-beading; the whole interior has a bright and elegant appearance. I read upon Mr. Beecher's desk, " Mount of Olives," and noticed that the words were printed in 18C9. By force of habit we think of "pulpit," but Mr. Beecher had no pulpit, simply an open rostrum or railed-in platform. He disliked a pulpit, and had a low plat- form near the people, with plenty of room for action and move- ment. He remarked, in speaking with me in his own house, *' In the old country you have pulpits. I do not like them. A preacher should not be stuck up in a box against the wall, but should be near the people, and have freedom and igo AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. latitude to move about." On one occasion the late Charles Dickens gave one of his readings in Mr. Beecher's church ; it is said he remarked to Mr. Beecher that the arrangements of the interior were severely plain but perfect. Behind the platform is the singers' gallery, with its splendid organ and imposing choir. The organist 7'as rather an old man, but quite a musical genius in his way. He came in about seven minutes before the hour, took his seat at the organ with a smoking cap on. The noble church was crowded — the people were sitting on chairs all along the aisles ; every inch of available space was occupied. A few minutes before the hour Mr. Beecher appeared, and seated him- self on his chair on the platform. For a moment he looked round the vast audience, and with a smile bowed his head once or twice, as if taking strangers into his sympathy and confidence, then taking up the hymn-book began to turn over the leaves. A beautiful flower filled a vase which stood on the platform, and which looked very bright and pleasing. Prompt at half-past ten, the hour of worship, a voluntary was sung by the choir. We admired the organist's playing and the musical performance of the choir ; the singing was grand, solemn, and hearty. There is nothing in particular that we have to record as to the order of the exercises. In America divine worship is conducted much the same as at home. After an anthem by the choir, Mr. Beecher rose, and stepping to the desk, invoked the divine blessing on the service. Then a hymn, which was sung by the whole congregation with great heartiness and effect. Then the reading of the chapter. There was nothing to strike one in the reading ; it was done in a quiet, distinct, and unaffected manner. The prayer was spiritual and elevating ; beautifully simple in its language, yet comprehensive and reverent. It conveyed the impression of a very earnest, very thoughtful, good man, who knew to Whom he was speaking, and who was anxious to bring the worshippers to a throne of grace. When he began to pray for the nation at large, his voice increased in compass ; it rose with his pleadings, and was very touching in its tone. Another THE KRV. If. ir. BEECHER. 191 hymn, then the text was given out, " Workers together with ("lod " (II. Cor., vi, i). Ciiving out his text Mr. Beecher paused for a moment, and putting his hand up to his head, drew it over his white, flowing hair, brushed back behind his ears, then quietly began his discourse. In his exordium he spoke of the devoted spirit and masterly mind of the great Apostle ; and then laid down the principle of the text that all meti, in (lod's great universe, were "Workers together with Him," and this he declared was true, whatever philosophers or men of science may say, whether they believed it or not. We took notes of the sermon, but as Beecher's sermons, like Spurgeon's, have been everywhere read, this we need only say — the sermon was charac- teristic ; it was animated and luminous, thoroughly practical, and earnestly and eloquently delivered. It was remarked upon by some of the audience " as a more spiritual and less political and ecclesiastical sermon than many delivered that day in New York." The great congregation seemed a highly intelligent one, being largely composed of lawyers, doctors, New vork merchants, and men of professional position. The service over, the people, on retiring, were heard saying — " Isn't it beautiful to listen to him?" "What a fine sermon." "Yes! we have had a good time." " Did you ever hear a better sermon?" Mr. Beecher was a powerful preacher. He was often called odd and eccen- tric, spoken about the beginning of his ministry as one of the curiosities of the New World. He may occasionally have said amusing things, but he was a man of singular goodness, power, and ability. He was not easily compared with others. He had an intensely sympathetic, luminous, enthusiastic nature, a large heart, and a deep religious life. On the platform he was a ready speaker, of fluent utterance, free of all " ministerial mannerism." Wherever he preached or lectured people crowded to hear him. His ministry to America was one of freedom and progress. In faithfulness to his conscience, he claimed liberty in working and following out the principles of Congregational polity. He hated all sectional narrowness, and extended a brotherly hand to all 192 AMERICA AND THE AMERICAXS. whom he found loved God and our Lord Jesus Christ. His one great aim through life was to inspire and direct the thoughts and purposes of men on Christian principle ; and is not that the best test of a great preacher ? In theology, Mr. Beecher held to the Fatherhood of God, the brotherhood of man, and Christ as the Saviour of the world. His .vork in New York was greatly blessed. Plymouth Church seats nearly 3000, and was always crowded. At the time of my visit the membership was 2300 or thereby. The people are now under the ministry of Dr. Lyman Abbott, Mr. Beechcr's successor, and are influential, active, and strong as a congregation in all good work. Of the many great preachers that have appeared in America, inspiring humanity, Henry Ward Beecher was the Prince of Preachers, a giant in his day. To him America owes an incal- culable debt of obligation which the Americans readily acknow- ledge. For a long period, and to a very deep extent, his per- suasive eloquence thrilled not one Christian community or country only, but the Christian world at large. As to Mr. Beecher's early life, it may be interesting to say a few things. He was born in Litchfield, Connecticut, on the 24th of June, 1 813, and was the eighth of ten children, who had to be sup- ported on a small salary received by his father as the minister of a small church at Litchfield. In his biography he tells us that when only a mere boy he had to learn so to work as to be able to put his hand to everything. He could sew, darn, and knit, or chop wood better than he could do his lessons. The Catechism was his greatest trial. He hated it, but had to learn it. His father was a minister of the narrow Puritans, though a man of a large, tender heart, and in every respect a model father. At the age of fourteen, Henry, overflowing with boyish energy, set his mind on going to sea. He even determined to go with- out his father's consent, but fortunately the good man skilfully turned the boy from his design. He induced him to enter Mount Pleasant Institute at Amherst, to study mathematics and navigation. Here new dreams and new visions arose to his ima- THE REV. ir. If. HE EC HER. 19J gination. " I shall have that boy in the ministry yet," was his father's shrewd remark. This desire was gratified, for Henry re- solved to be a minister, and in due time settled in the pastorate of a small church at Indianapolis. Mis first religious impressions, as he used to say, were traced to the influences of a wonderfully bright Christian home, combined with his power of reflection and imagination, love of nature, and his capacity for looking "from nature to nature's (lod." All through life, Mr. IJeecher was a student of nature, and was a i^nssionate lover of flowers. Soiiie one once reniarked to him that flowers were pretty, but were they worthy of the attention of a man who had an invnortal soul ? " Since the Almighty had time to make them," v.-as his reply, *' it does not seem amiss for me to take time to look at them." He referred to this the evening of my visit, and seemed much pleased when I told him that I was fond of flowers. He had a much loved farm, and took a deep interest in his horses, his doL;s, his chickens, and his bees. He was an enthusiast, too, for colours ; it is well-known that he was accustomed to carry gems in his pocket. When his brain was over-wrought or over-excited by hard study, he would stand in cold water over the ankles for ten minutes, then sit down in his chair, take out one of these gems, turn it in his hand, and look at it till his brain cooled down ; then he would go to bed, and get a quiet, sound, refreshing sleep. Shortly after Mr. Beecher's settlement in the small church at Indianapolis, he took to himself a wife ; and the young couple commenced their married life on £80 a year. His manse was two rooms above a stable. They had no servant ; he and his wife, as he tells us, did all the indoor and outdoor work them- selves. His ministry was highly successful ; ere he was twenty- three years of age, he had made his mark. It would be hard to tell the joyous secret of his success. He combined in one l)erson, in a high degree, great gifts and many endowments. He had a splendid constitution to begin with, a well-balanced and highly-cultured intellect. He read widely, and pondered over »3 194 AMERICA AND THE AMEKICAi\S. problems of the mind and the mysteries of life. Never remark- al)lj for his orthodoxy, he (luickly set aside the narrow doctrinal behefs of the old theologians. The secret of his success largely lay, if we may judge, in his ease, his grace, his force, and finish, as an accomplished orator. liut this is not all : he knew men intimately, all types of men ; the secrets of the human mind and heart were as well known to him as the functions of the physical frame are to the anatomist or doctor. Then he was a man full of faith, intensely in sympathy with "the struggling weakness" of his fellowmen. He would often finish a sermon or para- grai)h with the touching words, " Why do you doubting, sinful ones delay ? " " (lod is on your side." " God is always working for you, drawing to Himself those who most need Him." " Cod lives not to decree concerning you, nor to condemn, but to pity and to save." Conversing with Mr. Deecher, in his beautiful drawing-droom, on " things ministerial," he remarked in words like these, " what I often say to ministers let me say to you, ' to save a soul from death is worth the ministry of an entire life.' " Then he added, " My whole life has been that of reconciling men to God, and developing in them such power and such feelings as shall bring them into sympathy in their conditions with the Divine life, and thus build them up in the finer qualities of character and heart." He did me the honour of thanking me very cor- dially for the few words of address which I gave his people the evening of the prayer meeting referred to in a previous chapter. It was while Mr. Beecher was a young man that the great anti- sLivery crusade arose in America. What he did in that move- ment, both with word and pen, is now recorded by history. On week days and Sundays, in the pulpit and out of it, to his ever- lasting renown be it here stated, denounced slavery with force, fiery indignation, and with the most unsparing severity ; and continued denouncing it till the slave-system of America was for ever swept away. An incident w^hich occurred in the Broadway Tabernacle, New York, revealed to many his power and deter- THE KEW H. //'. li EEC HER. 195 mination on the ciuestion. At a large meeting there, Mr. lleecher tooks the chains that had bound John IJrown, flung them on the platform, and before the great audience, trami)led them under his feet. 'I'his incident shows very strikingly the l)rave, chivalric spirit of the man, his splendid Christ-like instinctive feelings as the lover of humanity. Like Lloyd (iarrison and Abraham Lincoln, at no small risk, he fought valiantly in the cause of the negro slave. He came to this country in 1863, and with his un- rivalled powers of platform speech, his groat humour and self- possession, faced immense audiences in London, Manchester, Liverpool, and Glasgow. A storm of ill-feeling arose against him from sympathisers with the South, hisses and groans threatened to silence him, but he stood unmoved and would not be silenced. " He was found," says a writer, ** to be a strong man in the cause." His appearance and addresses in this country gained for him the title of being "the Wilberforce of America." We cannot dwell much longer on the life and noble career of this truly noble man. Designed for active service, and prepared for it, he was not confined to the pulpit or to one way of njaking his voice heard. For years, and single-handed, he edited a reli- gious newspaper. The Christian Union, conducted with breadth and ability. But his great life-work was in preaching. To him, as the pastor of Plymouth Church, he used to say, '* My pulpit is my sphere." He was the manliest of men, the king of preachers in the fulness of vitality, spirituality, sweep and powers of inspiring eloqence. '* Not merely a maker of sermons, or im- parter of ideas," to use his own language, " but a servant of the Master, creating men in the Divine image, and inspiring life with higher ideals of personal character, growth and true manhood.'* Preaching was simply a passion with Mr. Beecher. Busy as he was, he found time to study "in railway trains," he says, "in odd minutes on platforms, on boats, wherever the opportunity occurred." His mind was richly stored, his early training and discipline were very thorough and complete. He only needed 196 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. the place, the audience, and his eloquence "poured out a full deep stream." I am glad that it fell to my lot to meet Mr. Beecher before he was removed from the sphere of his earthly labour. He was very kind, and I would fain pay this richly deserved tribute to one who so attracted me. He had his dark days ; a black shadow threatened to darken and eclipse his good name. He bore it all in silent sorrow, firmly convinced of his own personal goodness, his sincerity of heart, and his growing fellowship with the Divine life. The fiercer he was tried the better he preach^ \ and prayed, and the richer he grew in faith and love. His inno- cence was established; the "Tilton conspiracy" was a failure. He stood up before his congregation Sunday after Sunday in the bravery of his integrity, in the purity of his manhood, and long ere he finished life's career, the lips of "gossiping fools" were silenced. I had the pleasure when calling on him of being introduced to his good wife. She impressed me as a lady, resplendent, like her husband, in those bright genial qualities of mind and heart, which make " women the beacon-light of man's ambition," and which go far to draw forth his thoughts and aspirations to some- thing higher and holier than his own " rougher nature." Mr. Beecher agreed with Thackeray, " that a good woman is the loveliest flower that blooms under heaven." Mrs. Beecher's bright, cheerful disposition, her clinging trustful affection, her sweet beautiful influence made Mr. Beecher the happy man of a happy Christian home. CHAPTER XX. DR. JOHN HALL, NEW YORK— DR. TALMAGE, BROOKLYN TABERXA CLE. T_T AVING heard the celebrated Rev. Henry Ward Beccher preach, I was anxious to hear Dr. John Hall, a famous Presbyterian minister, and Dr. Talmage, of the Brooklyn Taber- nacle, another preacher of world-wide fame. Dr. Hall preached in his own church, the Sunday I heard him, at 4 p.m. He ministers to a wealthy people in one of the finest and most handsome churches of America. A stranger is at once struck with the magnificence and costly elegance of this church. The building completed costs no less than 1,600,000 dols., or about ;;t^2oo,ooo — the site alone having cost j^6o,ooo. " What a sum for a church ! " says my reader. Yes, a large sum ; but Dr. Hall's congregation is very rich. Then, let us remember, the Americans generally can do a thing handsomely ; they grudge no outlay and no expense in connection with the House of God. But probably at the time Dr. Hall's church was built it was easier to get a million dollars than it would be to get half a million now. However, the church is a most magnificent, costly edifice, admirably adapted for congregational purposes. The pews are of fine oak, and finely cushioned ; down stairs they rise slightly away to the back or end of the church ; from any part of thr house the minister can be easily seen. Dr. Hall is perhaps the most famous Presbyterian minister of America. His presence, as he comes before an audience, is at once manly, self- possessed, earnest, frank, and homely. He preached, or lectured, the Sunday afternoon that we heard him, on " David and Goliath ; " and in presenting their history, he drew from it les- igS AMERICA AXD THE AMERICANS. sons which he enforced and applied. His aim was to hold up the life of David to his hearers, as illustrative of the power of faith in the career of a truly good man. The sermon was deli- vered without manuscript; all through it was fresh and elevating, very interesting, and tlioroughly practical, just the thing that is needed from the pulpit to make preaching a power and useful. Dr. Hall is an easy, fluent, ready speaker. Nor does he ever hesitate in his delivery, and his diction is so accurate that every word might be printed as he utters it. Fresh blood has run in the veins of many eminent American preachers. Dr. Hall came originally from Ireland, from a cliurch in Dublin, but he was not so widely known then as he is now. He is an active, methodical man, and goes through a great deal of work. Besides his weekly pulpit preparation and his pastoral work, he contributes largely to the press of America. He is a man of great good sense, a theologian, sound views, breadth and ability ; a preacher that presents the '* why and wherefore " of Christianity to his people, so that all who " sit under " his ministry, and listen Sunday after Sunday to his teaching, are indeed highly favoured. We cannot but express the earnest hope that such a man as Dr. Hall may be long s[)ared, and that his ministry, at once so able and attrac- tive, may long abide in power. On retiring from the service, I felt that this was none other than the House of (lod, and the Gate of Heaven. The Sunday evening was devoted to a visit to Brooklyn Tabernacle, Dr. Talmage's Church. The hour of divine worship there is half-past seven — a rather late hour, but so it is with the second service in America : in some places indeed it is as late as a quarter past eight But this late hour does not interfere with the attendance at the Tabernacle. Dr. Talmage is another famous preacher. His preaching draws together large crowds. The Tabernacle 'n which he ministers is an immense size of a building, with sitting accommodation for nearly 5000 people. It is built after the amphitheatre style — something like tlie Kibble Palace of Glasgow, but with a gallery on all sides except DK. TA'.MAGE. 199 the end occupied by the platform and the organ behind. The acoustics are good, the whole of the internal fittings all that could be desired, and the great building always filled to over- flowing. It was with difficulty we got in, and when we got in, the place was so full that we had to sit in one of the aisles. The service began by a voluntary on the great organ. The instrument is a splendid one, and so built that the key- board and pedals are in front of the platform. A minute or two before the hour Dr. Talmage appeared and seated himself in an easy chair on the platform. He had an overcoat on his arm, a felt hat in his hand, and was plainly but neatly dressed with a black coat and a black neck tie. He looked as if he had jus* arrived from a journey, rather like a traveller or a New York merchant than a clergyman. The voluntary over, he advanced to the front of the platform and gave out a hymn, which was sung with great heart by the large congregation. The singing was inspiring and powerful ; but in point of taste, culture, and harmony, not to be compared with the singing in Plymouth Church. What seemed rather odd to a stranger was this, — the singing was led by a cornet, played by a gentleman, who stepped on the platform as each hymn was given out. In our country to use a cornet would be thought vulgar, or not very orthodox, and any attempt made to bring it in would be resisted. But the Doctor and his people are not so particular as we are on this side the Atlantic, nor do they care what a stranger visiting the Tabernacle may think of their modes and ways of doing things, provided any good purpose be served. Dr. Talmage says that the cornet is helpful to the singing ; that it attracts crowds to his Tabernacle who otherwise might not come under the sound of the gospel. And no doubt but such an instrument would be helpful, and of considerable attraction to a class. At all events, it is regularly used in Brooklyn Tabernacle, and is loud enough, for its sten- torian notes are heard above the rolling tones of the great organ. After the singing Dr. Talmage offered prayer ; then read a portion 200 AMERICA AXD THE AMERICANS. of Scripture ; then singing again, and the Doctor said, " Let us continue the worship of (lod and take np the collection." The worshippers were earnestly reminded that the collection was one of the essential elements of worship, " Bring an offering and come irito His courts." The bo.xes went round, the collection was taken, then came the text for the evening, "On that night ruuld not the King sleep" (Esther, vi. i). The Doctor, who held a small I>ible in his hand, on giving out the text laid the Bible on a small table which stood by the side of his chair. He then repeated his text, " On that night could not the King sleep." Proceeding with his discourse, he re- marked, in an emphatic way, that " there must have been an interposition of Providence here. The King was anxious to sleep, but he could not ; sleep had fled from him. So it is," said he, "with an offended conscience. It, sure enough, will keep a man from sleep ; and of this," he added, " many of you, I fenr, have had experience." But we need not linger on the sermon. It was characteristic of Dr. 'I'almage. Not " .scien- tilic " nor intellectual, nor " well built up," nor, in the right sense of the word, elotjuent ; the sentences were abrupt, b/oken, and unsustained. Neverthelesr^, it was an able and a telling sermon in its way. It was specially addressed, we were told, to the sinful and careless, and was intended to awaken the con- science and heart. For three quarters of an hour the attention of the vast audience was interested, commanded, and rivetted. The Doctor preaches ex tempore^ and in listening to him it would strike one that his sermons were simply " thrown off" on the spur of the moment. Such is not the case. He tells us that he writes and prepares for his pulpit with diligence and care. And while his discourses are of that nature that would not edify, nor please an educated and refined taste, what is perhai)s better and a much higher compliment, they are calculated to arrest the mind, to awaken the conscience, to influence the heart and life; and this they do, among a certain class of people, where thou- sands of sermons more refined would fail. Altogether, Dr. DK. TALMAGE. 201 Talmage im[)ressecl me as an earnest, practical man. of an im- pulsive, sympathetic nature. His mind is vivid, clear, imagina- tive. He has a wide experience, a large knowledge of human life. He calls things by their right names, and, as it has been quaintly remarked, " He has a great power of anecdote." His voice is not strong nor musical, but it is capable of filling a large plice. Much was said by way of criticism as to his lecturing tour, and his "money-making visit" to this country some years ago. And he continues to be the subject of queer talk, and of many stories and statements. Yet we cannot but give as our opinion that he is a true man, an able and eloquent preacher, and more gifted as a scholar and theologian than many of his more acute and learned critics. I am inclined to think that the many stories and statements current in relation to him are absurd, nothing more nor less than pure fabrications. I cer- tainly do not attempt here to vindicate Dr. Talmage ; nor do I agree with him, nor praise him in all things. At the same time, candour compels me to testify that he is an earnest, hard-work- ing man ; nor should we be influenced by prejudice or by doubt- ful gossip ; but should interpret the Doctor with all charity, and so extend to him as an American, all reasonable indulgence. Of his ministerial work we need say nothing. It is well known to the world, and needs no pen to write in its praise : the Tabernacle is its standing witness. Dr. Talmage's life is before the Christian public ; his sermons are read by thousands, and thousands, in many languages ; he ought to have the prayers of all good men. But with reference to the Sunday evening ser- vice, before the benediction was pronounced and the congrega- tion dismissed, an urgent invitation was given to all to remain to a short prayer meeting. Fully one half of the great audience remained — say 2500 — and this large number remaining we could not but think that it said a great deal for the Doctor and his influence among his own people, and for their faith and zeal, and for the bond of union between them in the great and good work in which pastor and people are engaged. But if we may be 202 AMERICA AXD THE AMERICANS. pardoned for saying so, it was a rare meeting. The Doctor spoke briefly, and urged upon those who might lead in prayer to be short and to the point. " A great many pray," he remarked, " and yet never pray." For example, the other evening some one began his jir^yer by saying, ' Lord thou hast been our dwelling place in all generations.' Now, when a man does that in a prayer meeting, where we are met directly for the conversion of souls, you will pardon me saying, I doubt if he really prays at all. Brethren pray," said he, " and let us have a good meeting." Two very earnest, short, appropriate prayers were then offered ; the Doctor observed, •' That's right, God will answer such prayers." " And now," said he, " I want all you who are anxious, who wish to be prayed for, to stand up." " My experience," continued he, " is that it is a good thing to stand up and publicly declare yourselves to be so far on the side of religion." " Then all you who wish to become Christians to-night stand up; and you who are already Christians will bow your heads in silent prayer." A pause en- sued. Again Dr. Talmage enquired, " Are there any anxious souls here to-night ? " " Have I preached to-night in vain ? " " Have the brethren prayed in vain ? " " It cannot be." " Are all in this great audience converted } " " No, I am not prepared to believe that." " Again I ask you who want to be on the side of religion to signify this much by rising up." "This may be the last opportunity you may have." " Now, are there no anxious souls in this Tabernacle to-night?" "Ah, I see one in the gallery; an old woman." "May God bless her; she is not ashamed of Christ ; she has courage to rise." " Any more ? " " I see another, and another — three, four, five." Ah, the Spirit of God is mightily at work amongst us." " Impressions have been made." " Thank God, there are many anxious." " I see them rising around me in all parts of the house." " Now, keep on your feet, and you Christians in silent prayer keep on praying." " Any more ?" " This is the last time I shall ask." " Is there one more ? " (Here a young man stood up by our side). " Let DR. TAUIAGE. US pray," said Dr. Talmage. He offered a brief, earnest prayer for the conversion of all those who were standing, and then pronounced the benediction, and the audience dispersed. Hut was the meeting over? No, an after "enquiry meeting " was held, and I saw that a good many went into a room behind. Mr. and Mrs. Douglas went home. But anxious to see the last of it, I stayed this second meeting. From thirty to forty were in the room. Handing in my card, Dr. Talmage said, "Come away, I am glad to see a brother minister from Scotland ;" and, turning round, he pointed me to a man who was on his knees in a corner, and said, " There's a Scotchman ; he is fighting a hard battle there with the devil." The man heard the remark quite well, and naturally looked up to see who I was. " Now," said Dr. Talmage, " don't look up. P'ight your battle and get the victory ; and in the strength of the Lord go home a conqueror and a saved soul this very night." "That man,'' remarked the Doctor, as he turned to me, " has a history. He is a hard-headed Scotchman, as I have been dealing with him for several nights ; and to-night he came to the Tabernacle with Butler s Afia/o^y under his arm, and he wants me to explain a difficulty he has met with in the third chapter. But I have no time for that here; the best way for him to settle his difficulty and fight his battle is on his knees." Well, that was one way of settling a difficulty over Butler's Analogy^ and perhaps in the case referred to, if the man was an " enquirer," the most timely and most appropriate way. It is not for us to say, or to even make a single remark ; we only hope the difficulty complained of was got over, that the struggle with the "enemy " did not last long, and that the Scotchman came off the meeting a conqueior. " Come and dine with me on Tuesday," said Dr. Talmage. " I shall be glad to see you." I accepted the invitation, and spent a very pleasant afternoon with the Doctor. Referring to Sundry night, I remarked that, if he were in Scotland, he could not go about things in a prayer meeting in the same way. " Perhaps not," said he, " but I am not in Scotland, that makes all the 204 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. differencf ; and by getting those young men and women lo stand up bti^re the audience, I got them so far '.ommitted to religion, and so far strengthened against temptation ; and when you get a man committed and moved to prayer, you get him a long way." Very true ; but whether such *' ways and methods " be of lasting profit to the cause of religion, and a substantial gain to the Church, may be a question. Of course, no one can very easily judge in these matters for another, nor cnn we prescribe " ways and methods " of work : it is still more difficult to give an opinion which may have value on so famous, so original a man as Dr. Talmage really is. Travelling in America, I found a ureat many in every State loud in his praise, very appreciative of iiiPi, and always ready to defend his " ways." Others, again, I found quite the reverse : hostile to him and to his •' methods '* of working. But whatever may be said, it struck me that he was pre-eminent in the art of "committing men," and very popular with a large body of people. " His |)opularity, to a great extent," remarked Mr. Douglas, "lies in his own personal satisfaction of what he does ; " and we may add, " with the public's approval," otherwise he would not get such crowds to hear him. A missionary who is staying with me just now — a gentleman who has been seven years in India, one of the most distinguished of missionaries — tells me that he is a great admirer of the Rev. Dr. Talmage. He reads his sermons, he says, in the far off regions of India, and receives much inspiration and benefit from them. " I like that remark," he adds, " about * committing people,' and shall enter it into my note-book and reflect on it when I return to my work." The fearful descriptions which Dr. Talmage has sometimes given in his sermons of ^Jew York, its sins, its drunkenness, its misery, and its appalling consequences, have seriously alarmed many in the Old Country, who have relatives or friends in the great city. Nor is this alarm to be wondered at. A medical DR. TAI.MAGE. ?o5 authority of some years' experience of New York, declares that " in tlie poorer (luarlers of this city many have but a wretched, and beyond all imagination, a miserable existence."' And Dr. Talmage, who has seen with his eyes, gives it as his judgment that " New \'ork is a ce^•spool of evil, morally dangerous to live in." He declares that it is wonderful that the city is not swallowed up by an earthcjuake, or that it is not destroyed by flood or fire, as were the "cities of the plain." Now, all this is very terrible, and most alarming to people at ^i distance ; and had we the o[)portunities of knowing the full truth as to the moral condition of the city, certain (quarters might be found still more appalling. To us it is inconceivable that any one can speak lightly of the admirable efforts put forth by 1 )r. Talmage, in seeking to lessen crime, sin, and sorrow in New York. All this we say, and very emphatically. Yea, we say more : we wonder that, when the legislatures of other cities are doing so much for the cause and moral welfare of humanity, why the authorities of New York are not doing more. But having said this much, we beg to doubt if, after all. New York be very much worse than other large cities. I was most careful during my visit there, to make very particular enquiry at persons who knew the state and condition of New York well ; and I found this, that while there are countless evils in that city, it is perhaps not more fatally wicked than other cities. Those of my readers who know London or Paris, Glasgow or Liverpool, may see as much drinking, and as much sin and sinful associations in any of these cities as in New York. But I would not here make any comparison between cities, nor for a moment would I attempt to make New York more righteous than it is; but that this great metropolis is worse in its social and moral life than other large cities, if we knew all, I do not believe. Against the tide of sin and inic^uity in New \^Jrk, there are raised strong bulwarks of moral reform, and churches, young men's classes, Sunday schools, religious societies, benevolent institutions; and there, too, the old Gospel, AMERICA AiXn THE AMERICANS. which is the power to reheve captives from the enemy, is ably and faithfully preached. Nor does the press of the city fail to speak on all great questions affecting the life or welfare of the Community. Such are our varied and many-sided experiences as connected with New York. We only add that if faith is to have any practical value it ought not to concentrate its attention too much on the dark, or '* overstramcd side of things," hut rather on that noble enthusiasm which, face to fa( e with evils, grows still more noble in its strenuous eflbrts to fight against those sins, temptations, and crimes which so terribly degrade and ruin the pride and glory not only of large cities, but of smaller towns and country villages as well. CHAFFER XXI. AMFKiCAN COMPET/T/ON AND OUR AGRICULTL' RALISTS. *' T^HE question of American competition," says a shrewd observer in the current number of an able monthly, "is the agriculturalist's much-vexed question ; and no doubt, from any i)oint of view, foreign competition is an irksome and trouble- some question to our agriculturalists, especially American competition." Since the passing of the " I'ree Trade Laws " the home producer has had to maintain a hard struggle with the foreign competitor, very much as a writer expresses it, "with his hands tied behind his back." In discussing this much-vexed subject, though enormous difficulties at present surround it, bearing on the life of the nation and its community of interests, we are not altogether without hope that the home farmer may ere long have his difificulties somewhat removed, and be " put in a better position that he may compete on more equal terms with the foreign competitor." In glancing thus hopefully at the " attainable " in our agricultural economy, the reader may readily understand that we do not wish our " dicta " to savour of officialism in this great question ; nor do we wish any to imagine that we have a bishop's com- mission to speak and write with authority de omnibus rebus. The ofificial communication which is before us as we write, is from the pen of the Secretary of Her Majesty's Legation at Washington. The Secretary has been long an acknowledged authority on the finances of America, and held in high reputa- tion for his able and trustworthy reports on the agricultural condition, prospects and development of the country. *' It may he assumed, " he remarks speaking on the broader aspect of the AMr.hWCA AND THI'. AMERICANS. ible to predict what the future of the cattle trade may be, those who know the great advantages that American competitors have, and the enormous difficulties that so handicap our home agriculturalists, cannot bi;i feel that there is a great deal of truth in what the able Secretary says. That the agricultural trade at home is "destroyed" we cannot credit; nor do wc sympathize with that "cuckoo-cry" that "the farming interest of this country is coming soon to an end." The position and prospects of our agriculturalists may at i)resent appear somewhat gloomy, disheartening, and vexing, but the farming interest of this country is not quite so bad as to be '• hopeless." We are informed that the "stock" on an ordinary-sized farm, as prices go, is not sufficient to meet its working requiremenfs. The greatest breeders in England and Scotland say that " the traffic from Canada and the United States has strangled the home trade." The shipments of American cattle which ha\e been landed in Cilasgow and other ports, say, during the last few months, have been unusually large. This bears out the Secre- tary's prediction. Then take Aberdeen, and what have we there? No fewer than twenty arrivals of cattle within the last three months or so; in all, 9514 head of cattle and 1705 sheep. Is it any wonder, then, to find our home breeders disheartened, and our farmers as a class crying out against American competition ? For many years the markets of this country were uncontrolled, especially in the kind of cattle and produce which the Aberdeen- shire and northern farmers deal in. The cattle, the wheat, the AMERICAN COMPETITION. 309 barley and corn, indeed, all kinds of marketable produce, ran very high in price ; bui this is changed " nowadays," as the farmers say, not so much by home influences as by American markets and American competition. Nor must we forget that during those years the rents were very much raised; (;irms were so "run upon" by tratlesmen from the cities that the farmers had to offer too much to retain their holdings. It was dithcult in those days, indeed scarcely possible, to get a good farm at any rent. 15ut, as the farmers a<;ain say, "things have changed," prices have fallen, farms by the hundred have been given up, and many of them are now in the pro- prietors' own hands, not let. Now, considering all this, together with the advantages of farming in America, and the facts that come to us in relation to the agricultural interests of that great country, what is to be done at home ? With nearness to the markets, or with prudence, careful management, and hard labour, or with the exceptional goodness of a particular landowner, some few farmers may pull along and get a bare "existence," but what of the great majority? What is to be done for them ? There is but one thing in our opinion that can give any sub- stantial satisfaction and that is a re-valuation and re-adjustment of the rents — that the land should be purchased and taken over by the State, that it should belong to the State to hold, manage, and transact our agricultural interests is too sweeping and too risky a reform, even for those who go in for " The Modern Social Economy Scheme " to very seriously advocate. We con- cede at once that a national agricultural system may have its attractions to some, and might have its advantages in the service of individuals. But would our agriculturists in the main be any better of it ? Would they be on any higher level, or any more able to cope with foreign competition ? It does not appear that they would, because " the new sch^^me " would not remove the agriculturists' difficulties, nor touch the real question at issue. One of our leading politicians, and a politician of out- 14 no AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. Standing name, says, in his opinion, ** the game is not worth the candle, save to gain some votes at the time of an election." That doesn't look as if the new scheme was " widely popular and soon to become law," as we hear it said by that class of political reformers who are but too remarkably fond of gratifying them- selves and their constituency by the images and vain pledges of extravagant speech. We think what the agriculturists need, and what they believe in themselves, is a re-valuation and re- adjustment of their rents. How is this to be done ? The atti- tude of the American markets and the position of our home agriculturists require, of all interested in the prosperity of the nation, that this question be considered. Hut the problem is more difficult than is very easy to conceive. Some of our national reformers see their way to a solution of the question at once. Their policy is advanced indeed ; it consists in the advocacy of Socialism ; let all land-owners and proprietors throw up the land, they argue; let it be redivided and meted out to all alike. But what of the great constitutional question ? " Is this fair to the land-owners and proprietors ? " " We must not,"' they reply, " discuss that question." J^ut in all seriousness we are bound to discuss it, otherwise it would be like treating the land-owners and proprietors of our country as patients, having an operation performed upon them without their consent. How does that appear to the friends who march under the banner of " Socialism ? " But the land question — the question of re-valuation and re- adjustment of rents — would be best and most satisfactorily settled, we are told, " by a duly appointed State Commission." There are serious drawbacks to a State Commission on a great con- stitutional problem like this. These State Commissions have not always been successful, nor have they been very able in in- numerable instances to satisfy the parties concerned. It is easy enough to remark. " Let a State Commission be appointed ;" but do the people who want a State Commission api)ointed know precisely what such a Commission would do? Our advice to AMEKIC.lv com petition. 211 these people would be to think a little before they decided on a State Commission in relation to the re-adjustment of rents. Others, ayain, would have a division of the land and two valuators appointed to a district, one by the proprietor or pro- prietors of the district, the other by a vote of the people farming the land of the said district, while in the case of disj^ute a thiid valuator would be called in, whose valuation would be final. ^Vith this latter scheme we have no fault to find, provided the third valuator when called in be not told the valuation of the other two. If this were clearly and distinctly understood, it would make the two valuators appointed to go over the said district most conscientious, just and careful ; and would do away with the evil of " the one valuator working for ihe one party, and the other valuator working for the other." The idea of a third valuator knowing the valuation of the two respectively appointed is manifestly absurd. Such a valuation must in many cases involve hopeless peri)lcxity ; its root principle is wrong, it can answer no just equitable purpose, and against it we believe a large number of our })ro[)rietors, factors, and farmers protest. lUit when the third valuator knows nothing of the valuation (jf the two in dis[)ute, this gives a just interest to his valuation as well as to theirs, and acts as a satisfying, reasonable, salutary refo!ui , and is equally just, as by principle, both to proprietors and farmers. As things are in the Old Country, the agriculturist's situa- tion in numerous instances is most trying. He is to be sympa- thized with ; and one should think our agriculturists have some curious thoughts and questionings within themselves in their more reflective moods, as to their money being sacrificed, and their labour thrown away, and their life wasted without any provision for themselves and families when old age overtakes them. There are of course two sides to this story ; it would not be ditlficult to defend the other side pretty effectively. The agriculturists as a class are given to complaint, and are not very easily pleased. This is an actual fact, and some of them indeed complain in a 2t2 AMERICA AM) TIIE AMERICANS. senseless, if not offensive way, when there is no great occasion for doing so, seeing that on their own confession their farms " pay ; " and when a farmer says as much you may be sure that he has something to his credit. But while not sympathizing with all who " cry-out " for a reduction of rent, the position of the majority, as we have before remarked, is trying and perplexing without a doubt. They pay a high rent ; they have had no re- valuation and no reduction ; they pay much for manure, labour, and working expenses. Then the American traders come into the country and are able to supply the country's demands at a lower rate than our home agriculturists can possibly do. Still, it is said, " they have held their own with America, and many of them have grown rich and have made fortunes." This was the case in "the good old times," particularly in the south, but not now. In these days there are very few " fortunes " made at farming. Foreign competition guards against this and will guard against it so long as our ports and shores are free, and all other stretches of the earth's surface protected by taxation. Then consider over and above this that America is a country of great possibilities of develo[)ment. The (quantity of grain i)roduced in America is enormous. Last year the State of Minnesota yielded over 41,000,000 cjuarters of wheat ; and in Manitoba, the adjoin- ing territory in the dominion of Canada, the returns were some- thing " fabulous ; " and now since the railway communication makes it possible for grain to be brought from the remotest States, and since the cultivation 01 the land in America costs but little, the American competitor has immense advantages over the home agriculturalist. Thus we see that in America, taken from any view of calculation, farming is worth one's while as comi)ared with this country. The fields out there are ever widening, and now that money is circulating more freely, there is sure very soon to be a large number i)f farmers and labourers who will leave our shores for America. The Secretary at Washington tells us that, '' tlie farming pros- pects of America are bright and growing bri- iilcr ; "' the same J.\rr.K/CAX COM PETIT/OX. z\}, ihing is said by all whf) have any fair arquaintance with the coun- try. The farmers tiieniselves in America entertain the most hopeful views of the agricultural interest of the United States, Nor is the case of our home farming improved when we take into consideration the important markets and the supply of America. IJoth the North and the South are having heavy re- turns this season from their large crops. America sup[)lies hutcher meat considerably cheaper than we can do at home. I'^or example, "prime beef" in New York ranges from 6d. to 8d. per lb., and fresh butter of the best quality is sold at lod. the lb., and cheese at 5d. Now, so long as cattle and agricul tural produce continue to be remunerative at these i)rices, our farmers are thereby held in check and sorely handicapped in the agricultural race between the two countries. It WIS my good fortune to spend a portion of my time in America in a fine fertile, agricultural district, where I had special opportunities of seeing of the best farms, and of judging of the farmer's position, his success, and his comforts, all round ; and I should here observe that a traveller from the old country, enquiring into the agricultural interests of America, will receive everywhere a hospitable welcome and every information from the farmers of the New World. The agricultural ca[)acity of America is of unlimited extent. This may be judged not only from the extent and vastness of the territory throughout the States, out also from the number of hogs, sheep, and cattle, which is, we may affirm, beyond all calculation. The estimate of cattle in the United States is given at over 42,000.000. Referring to the chai)ter in this book on Chicago, the reader will there find it stated that the trade carried on in hogs is some- thing extraordinary. A large proportion of that same trade is with Great liritain and Europe, and when we consider that a ship from America, with a cargo of pork, can be landed in Liverpool, London, or Glasgow, and the pork sold at a less price than the pork of this country, and eijually good, we cannot but see that there is here something very seriously affecting the 2X4 AMERICA A.YD THE AMERICANS. ni^ricultural interests of our country. But how to remedy matters is the difficulty. They talk of Ireland and the condition of the ayricullurists there. Why, their condition is not more '* deplorably had " than is the condition of many of the aE^ricul- turists ill l''.nu'hui(l and Scotland. As to the state and condition of the Irish farmer it may be bad enough, and it is very riyht and proper for our Queen and Ciovernmcnt to direct their efforts in the way of bctterintj it. But the fact is, we can never listen to the Irish land ([uestion, as discussed on the social pro- gramme of i)arty politics at this moment, with any enthusiasm, or indeed without seme feeling of dissatisfaction. We concur with Sir William Thomson when he says "that politicians in their present dealings with Ireland are too impatient of results ; " yea, and too ready in their own eyes to shape and draw their conclu- sions; too anxious, as facts testify, to stir up strife in the relations of classes, and too unconcerned by far to establish peace and order, justice, law, and generosity, which are never at variance with good goverriHient, and which fortune will, even with refer- ence to Ireland, smile upon in the end. The adoption of some comprehensive scheme to raise the level of the agriculturists throughout the whole of our Queen's dominions would be appreciated by America and other countries, and would be hailed with much satisfaction at home as a great and timely scheme. It is not easy for language to over-estimate the need of something to raise our agriculturists and put them in a better position in relation to foreign competition ; but what that scheme is to be is the problem. In a circular recently drawn up and sent to some of the members of Parliament known to be more in sympathy with the great difficulties of agricultur- ists in this country, there appears to be a growing feeling that farming is kept back, and farmers made to struggle with their hands tied, on account of our *' Free Trade laws," once so popu- lar, but now seemingly seriously in the way of the farmer's prosperity and success. Nothing, however, comes of a circular as addressed to a representative in Parliament; how could there? AMFKICAA' COMPFTfT/ON. aif They are flooded with circulars. Their clerks, in many cases, Ljive them the waste-basket without ever readinj^ them. But the removal of the evil complained of would only, we fear, bring upon the nation a greater evil. Regard must be had to the capacity or incapacity of a country. What are its wants and necessities ? and what materially is it able to produce ? Our country could not, by a long way, supply its demands ; and were we as a nation to repeal the " Free Trade laws," and have all foreign imports taxed, what would become of us? ""he (juestion of living within ourselves, so far as maintaining our- selves is concerned, need not detain us in the discussion of this subject. It is of no value — the demands of our country are infinitely greater than its powers of supply. CHAPTER XXII. FROM NEW YORK TO WORCESTER, MASS. T^ROM New York by rail to Worcester, a city of Massa- chusetts, the journey was made in seven and a half hours. We left the Metropolis at eight o'clock in the morning, and arrived in Worcester at half-past throe in the afternoon. Along the route we had a bird's-eye view of the country. At some of the stations there was a considerable stir, a good many people seemingly travelling ; but we do not remember anything parti- cularly calling for remark except that the scenery was beautiful, and glowing with the well-known " tints and colours " which so characterise an American " fall." To appearance the land was not so rich and fertile as other districts that we had seen in passing through the States. Our fellow-pa ;sengers were the chief attraction, and the day being fine, and the harvest all gathered in, there was an unusually large number of the agricultural class, as we thought, travelling. Immediately beside me sat a group of farmers, whose conversation turned on the abundant harvest, farming affairs, and the appearance of better times. They had encoun- tered difficulties and adversity for a series of years, but all were hopeful, and all agreed in forecasting a prosperous future. Before very long one of the gentlemen turning to me, as I was glancing at the pages of one of several books that a vendor had placed on my knee, enquired, "Are you from the West?" " No !" " Are you from Canada?" " No ! " " Then I guess," continued he, " you're from the Old Country," and before I had time to say yea or nay, as if he had had an object of a very dis- tinct and practical kind in view, he went on : *' Are you in I' ROM NEW YORK TO WORCKSTEK, MASS. search of land ? Take my advice, keep your eyes open, and don't be in too great a hurry experimenting."' "Thank you, sir," I said, " that is certainly sound advice, but if you will not think me rude, may I ask arc you an authority in such matters ? '' " I am a New Jersey man,"' replied he ; and transcribing from my note-book I find that about seven years ago this gentleman had bought some land in the State of Nev/ Jersey, bui having paid too much for it, his " experimenting was not a success." Another gentleman, who heard his remarks, said : " I have a piece of land that I would gladly dispose of and leave room for a margin," whatever that *' margin " might mean. It was not in our way to " experiment," even with the inducement of a *' margin." Another gentleman in the car had a farm in the State of New York, which even in the *' dull times " brought him " a good re- turn." He had loo acres, 12 of which were laid out in orchards. He had 550 peach and apple trees, each tree averaged 50 lbs. or more. He had also a vineyard of three acres, which produced 150 dollars' worth of grapes and cherries. And further, he had returns of 600 bushels of Indian corn, equal to 220 dollars. Then he considered that he would draw for wheat, sheep, and cattle, say from 600 to 750 dollars. And he had a large garden which yielded over 200 dollars' worth of market provisions. So, putting the whole together, this farmer had indeed, we thought, " a good return " from his farm. His working expenses were but small. He had only two hired servants, and after paying them, the rest of his income was clear profit. There was one thing in particular that grieved these farmers, and against which agriculturists in the eastern States all grumble — namely, the fact that sheep and cattle, and all kinds of farming produce, can be brought from the far west, and actually sold as cheap in the New York markets as cattle and produce from the nearest States. But the same thing applies to any and every country. The nearer the markets, the higher the land and rates. On the farms of America the horses and imple- !lS AMERICA AXD 7 HE AMER/CAXS. mcnts are much lighter than at home. On some farms in America tliere arc good working horses, but in no country is there greater attention paid to the rearing of. horses than in (Ireat Britain, particularly Scotland. i'o one of the gentlemen inclined to complain of "dull times " and the reduction in prices, we suggested, " Why not go to Canada?" ".Manitoba," we said, "was a fine country." "Per- haps so," replied he, " but I do not like Canada." " Why do you not like Canada?" I enrjuired. "'I'he winters there," said he, " are too long and too severe ; " as for Manitoba, he was not jirepared "to bury" himself in a "wilderness." Manitoba is not certainly a paradise, but as the saying is, " first come best served." After this conversation we had a long talk with the train con- ductor. At first he was reserved in his manner and talk for a Yankee, but after a little he became quite frank, and conversed on things very freely. lie gave me much information about the country through which we were passing, and the places and homes that marked this journey. Referring to the conversation that we had had with the farmers, he spoke of the agriculturists in the States as having had "a good time" for years. "And now," said he, " that the markets are perhaps lower than they used to be in America, and farming produce more reduced, I guess few of them are from hand to mouth." This was the opinion of the train conductor, who appeared to be a well-in- formed and very intelligent man, as, by the way, the railway conductors in America generally are. He had many (juestions to ask me about the Old Country ; and though he had never seen it with " his own eyes," he yet looked upon it through " the eyes of his grandfather," and spoke of it as their ancient home. I asked him if, in his experience, there was much diffi- culty or trouble with passengers. "You must often have," I said, " in a great country like America, some disagreeable, trouble- some people. How do you treat them ? " His reply was some- thing like this. " \Ve very seldom have troublesome people en iiva'(7-:sj7:a\ 219 hoard, except occasionally a drunken party of Irish emigrants ; and if need he, ihoy arc smartly dealt with, and put off at the first depot we come to. 'I'hat is/' he added, " if we have to interfere in a case of any serious (luarrelling." On arriving at Worcester, Mr. AVitherby, a gentleman that we had met the summer before when travelling in .\ustria, was v/aiting at the depot to bid us welcome to his hospit:ible home during our stay in the old city. He and his noble lady, we must here record, spared no trouble in making our visit to Worcester truly pleasant and enjoyable ; and happily for us Mr. Witherby had abundant leisure, not only to take us over the town, but here and there by rail to places of romantic and historical interest in Mass. He s[)ent a week and more with us ; and without him we could not have seen the fine country round Worcester half so well. Nothing clings closer to our memory in connection with our travels in America than the hospitality and kindness of Mr. and Mrs. Witherby and their large circle of friends. Mr. Witherby and the inhabitants of Worcester are proud of their fine old city, and so they may, for the beauty of the town struck me more the longer I stayed. It lies in a rich valley forty-five miles west of Boston, surrounded by beautiful hills, and is a fine specimen of a New England town. The poi)ulation is over 52,000, all in as comfortable circumstances as in any city in America, and many of them, judging from fine residences, wealthy, and living on their fortunes. The streets are broad, well- kept, finely shaded and laid out, as are all streets in New Eng- land towns, as if in the anticipation of a large future. The houses have a remarkably bright, clean, comfortable, homely appearance. In the outskirts of Worcester among the fine residences the gardens as usual are lovely ; and lawn tennis grounds on which the young ladies and gentlemen play with as much enthusiasm as at home, are quite common. Worcester was the home of the late Mr. John Gough, the widely known, the famous and much celebrated temperance 220 AMI-.RiCA AN/i '17/ K AAfEh'/CANS. orator of America. We heard a great deal concerning him and his work while in Worcester. He must have been a man of marvellous qualities as a platform speaker. His voice was rich in tone, powerful, and extremely flexible, lending itself easily to the various moods of ringing speech, tender pathos, narration, and yearning appeal. It has been well said, that " Mr. (lough was the man of his time for America." His eloquence was mighty in arousing the apathy of men ; he did much, yea, more than any other man of his day, in bringing about the high temperance sentiment that we find in America, particularly in the States of New England. The old epigram which says, *' We cannot make a nation sober by legislation," he did not believe. " It is the principle of law," he replied to the men who used this epigram as an argument against his temperance orations, "to make it easy to do right and difficult to do wrong." Mr. Witherhy and his friends, Messrs. Philip and M'Gregor, well-known in Worcester, were great in the praise of Mr. Gough. In several of his addresses, which they were good enough to pre- sent to me, I find him arguing in this way, "You hail legislation in restricting and guiding materi'al things, such for instance as vaccination, the sale of poisons, sanitary reform, etc. You see the same law, or the same principle of law, working for the nation's welfare ; for example, in the suppression of obscene theatricals, criminal amusements, street pollutions, and the like. You see all this, you are bound to admit it, why then do you tell me that ' we cannot make a nation sober by legislation.' " He then continues his arguing by saying, "But you turn aside and you say, the one to the other, ' after all we cannot easily create virtues by law,' as if that was not very much the same question. I say we can create virtues by law ; " and then as if turning to the chairman of the meeting, he asks, " Is not virtue most surely fostered by the use of laws ? stop the conditions of evil and you create virtues as a natural result. This is my posi- tion, and if any man can correct me or can give better exhorta- tions and counsel on the subject, let him now speak." Mk. JOHN GOUGll. iit " Ah," with a shrug of your shoulders, you say, ** the drink question of America is insoluble." "Then there's a sore here which badly wants your help, but you would let the sore run its course, and put forth no efforts to heal the nation? Is that what you mean when you say it ib ' insoluble ? ' Perhaps, you say, * I would trust divine grace.' So do I. There are some good people who lay groat stress on this doctrine, don't they ? What does it mean ? In ten thousand cases it means ' don't do anything.' Yes! you believe in 'divine grace,' but do you believe in using the means at your command to arrest, control, prevent, that which is so sinful, so unrighteous, and so deadly as the drink traffic of our nation most surely is ? That's what I want you to consider, lest you lower the dignity of your own be- lief, and in the end lose the reward of your doctrines all round." Men boast of " grace " full manfully, When yet their lives afford No means of blessing to the world, No offering to the Lord. It is not our intention further to dwell on ?\Ir. John Gough the late famous orator in the temperance cause of America ; but in all religious reverence let it be said, that though gone from the scenes of his earthly labours, he lives in the high esteem and universal testimony of the American nation, reaping a rich and abiding reward in that cause which grows and prospers all over the United States, and which is now essentially popular as a branch of the work of the Christian church in that great country. But though not dwelling further on Mr. John Gough, we may be permitted to give one of his most touching temper- ance stories, as sent to us from America, and by one of Mr. Gough's most intimate friends. The reader, we think, will follow the story with intense interest, and may imagine what a thrilling effect it would have upon a large audience when told with the swelling heart and the fine imaginative soul of the celebrated orator. The friend who sent us the story has remarked that " it AMERICA AND TUli AMERICANS, I)roducc'd impressions never to he for^'otten, and must have done good in the temperance cause." The story is headed, " The IJridal Wine-Cup," and is as follows : — " ' Ves, Marion, lay aside your scruples for once,' said the father, 'the company expect it. Do not infrinije ui)on the rules of eticpiette; in y(Hir own home act as you please, but in mine, for this once, please me.' " ' Every eye was turned towards the bride. She was very pale, though more composed, and her hand shook not, as smil- ing hack, she gracefully accepted the crystal tempter and raised it to her lips. 15ut scarcely had she done so, when every hand was arrested by her piercing exclamation of, ' O ! how terrible ! ' " ' \\'hat is it ? * cried one and all, thronging together. " ' What ! ' she answered, while an inspired light shone from her dark eyes, ' wait, and I will tell you. I see,' she added slowly, pointing to the sparkling liipiid, 'a sight that bcggais all description, and yet listen — I will paint it for you if I can. It is a lovely sjiot ; tall mountains crowned with verdure rise in awful sublimity around ; a river runs through, and bright flowers grow to the water's edge. There is a thick, warm mist, that the sun seeks vainly to pierce. Trees, lofty and beautiful, wave to the airy motion of the breeze. Tiiere I see a group of Indians gather; they move to and fro with sorrow upon thcii dark brows ; in their midst lies a manly form, with dark cheek, deathly eyes wild with the fitful fire of fever. One friend stands beside him -I should say kneels — for see, he is i)illowing that poor head upon his breast. "'(lenius in ruins! on the high, holy-looking brow, why should death mark it, and he so young ? Look, how he throws back the damp curls ! see him clasp his hands ! hear his thrillin;^ shrieks for life ! mark how he clutches at the form of his com- panion, imploring to be saved ! O! hear him call pitcously his father's name ! see him twine his fingers together as he shrieks •• THE UK IDA/. n'L\K-Cl'P:' 22j for his sister — his only sister— the twin of his soul — weeping for him in his distant native land? " ' See !' she exclaimed, 'see, his arms arc lifted to heaven I he prays, how wildly, for mercy ! but fever rushes throui;!! his veins. The friend beside him is weeping ; awe-stricken, the dark men move silently away, and leave the living and the dying together.' .\s the bride paused, there was Ji hush in that princely parlour, broken only by what seemed a smothered sob from some manly bosom. She spoke again. Her voice was low, faint, yet awfully distinct. She still fixed her sorrowful glance upon the wine-cup, and said — "' It is evening now; the great white moon is coming up, and her beams lie gently on his forehead. He moves not — his eyes arc set in their sockets — dim are their piercing glances ; in vain his friend whispers the name of father and sister — death — and no stjft hand, no gentle voice, to bless and soothe him. Hi.s head sinks back ! one convulsive shudder I he is dead ! ' " A groan ran through the company, so vivid was her descrip- tion, so unearthly her look, so inspired her manner, that what she described seemed actually to have taken place then and there. They noticed also that the bridegroom hid his face in his hands, and was weeping. " ' iJead ! ' she repeated again, her lips (juivering faster, and her voice more broken; 'and there they scooi) him a grave; and there, without a shroud, they lay him down in that dam}), reeking earth. The only son of a proud father ; the idolized brother of a fond sister. There he sleeps ! In that distant country, with no stone to mark the spot — he lies — my father's son — my own twin brother ! — a victim to this deadly [joison. Father,' she exclaimed, turning suddenly, while the tears rolled down her beautiful cheeks, ' father, shall I drink it now ? ' " The form of the old father was convulsed with agony. Ik- raised not his head, but m a smothered voice he faltered, 'Nk, no, my child, in (iod's name, no.' " She lifted the glittering wine cup, and letting it suddenly 224 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. fall to the floor, it was dashed in a thousand pieces. Then, as she looked at the fragments of crystal, she turned to the com- pany, saying, ' Let no friend, hereafter, who loves me, tempt me to peril my soul for wine. Not firmer are the everlasting hills than my resolve, God helping me, never to touch or taste that terrible poison. And he to whom I have now given my hand, who watched over my brother's dying form in that last solemn hour, and buried him there by the river, in that land of gold, will, I trust, sustain me in that resolve.' The father left the room, and when, an hour later, he returned, and with a more subdue 1 manner, took part in the entertainment of the bridal guests, no one could fail to sec that he, too, had determined to banish the enemy at once and for ever from his home. Those who were present at that wedding can never forget the impres- sion so solemnly made. From that hour, many of the company foreswore the social glass." But to return in our narrative to Worcester. I look upon it as an honour to have had the privilege of paying a visit to this fine old city, to have seen the home wht. j Mr. Gough lived, to have heard so much of his work and the part he played in the temperance movement all over the United States. His name in itself is to many Americans of undying interest, while in respect to the memories it awakens in connection with the cause of tem- perance, the people of this country, who had the pleasure of hearing his great orations when on a visit to England, will not soon forget the man, who so touched their hearts and lives with his thrilling eloquence. Mr. Gough's life of usefulness in the temperance cause earned for him the esteem and affection of the Christian community wherever he went. It may be suggested to the mind of the reader that some people are inclined to lay too much stress on temperance work. Possibly that is so ; yet its spirit is most surely the spirit of cur Christian manhood and service. It would be foolish, indeed, for any to say that the one hope of a country, say America, lies in the temperance movement. The temperance movement has IIORCESTEK. 225 made immense progress in the United States of late years. " It is now, we may say," as an authority from the States ob- serves, " the movement of the whole people of America, for the great cause lies in the heart of the nation." And that surely augurs well, we may add, for the future i)iosperity of America. But that the temperance movement alone " bears the glory " of a "prosperous future," we must say that we do not agree with those who affirm as much. The temperance movement at home and abroad has our true sympathy and support, but that move- ment is not alone to " bear the glory " of the future progress and prosperity of nations. It has its part to play in the bringing aljout this happy day for the human race, but the movement is only one of the many humanising agencies all at work, and all doing their best, in the country, for the district where they are placed. The people of Worcester and of the New England States are more — well, if we do not say prudent, say reserved, in their manners, more restful in their disposition, more like the English than to the south or west of America. Uut in every State and district of the New ^Vorld the people are of bright, sanguine temperament, full of high hopes, and intluenced by great possi- bilities as to the future of the American nation. All of them have a common and a marked interest in their tine country ; and all of them in speaking to a stranger, speak of it as t/ie one country destined to influence the future ot the world more than any other. We who live in tlie Old Country smile at this; we arc amused at the idea ; wc like it ; but wc say, " It"s just the way that the Americans talk." Wc think nothing more about it, though when wc begin to know America and consider its boundless resources and its vast possii)ilitics, both inside and outside its dominions, we can hardly doubt for a moment but what the Americans say on this great (luestion is true. As to Worcester, the cili/ens are famed for the interest they take in education, politics, and pliilanthropic effort. Mr. Witherley introduced us to several Scotchmen, some of whom aaS AMEf^JCA AND THE AMERICANS. arc at the head of affairs in the city. S[jeakinj^ with a gentle- man one day, and a man of good [Kjsition, the chief partner in a large " dry goods store," he remarked, " We like your ( ounlry- nien ; we admire their ability in business. Two or three oi our local authf;rities are Scotchmen ; and they are men of eminum e, and \\ orcester is proud of them." We were pleased to have this testimony in favour of our countrymen from a Vankee, and from one wIkj was himself a gentleman of business ability and l)re-eminently a suc(;c:ssrul man. He kindly sent an invitation to Mr. and Mrs. Witherley for us to spend an evening with him and some friends, which we gladly ace e[)ted and enj(jyed very much. We had S(jme good nmsic, singing, and general talking on (lueslions of the day. Through the evening the cimversation of a few of some of the more ambitious philosophising gentlemen piesciit turned on the govemment of the country, more [)arti- cularly the administration of its local affairs. One of the gentle men asked me : ' How do you in the Old Country manage your elections ? There are some drawbacks with us in America that we don't seem to be able to get over." " What are these ? " I encjuired. " (Jne difficulty in our electioneering," said he, "is this : we are always too nmch in the bustle and hurry of the hour." " I sup|)Ose you mean by that," said I, " that your electioneering prei)a.ations are put off too long, thai you drive things too much into the ' hour ' of the election." " That is so," he replied. Then he went on in a very sensible way stating that in their niunici[)al affairs, the election, or ap[)ointment, fell into the hands of those self-seeking men who became the nominees of those cliques who have no interest in good administration, and no lilness ncjr claim to represent the people. This is a ([uestion which recjuires to be looked into in connection with our elections at home, as well as in America. An(jther drawback which our friend referred to, lay in the difficulty in getting the right candidates to come forward, candi- dates who are interested in the affairs of the people, honest, cap- able, etTicient men. The same ditticulty in thib respect is felt \\\ n'ORCFST/:A'. 227 every country and kiiigcluin. In iiU!JibcrI«jbr> c;i ,c.s in llic Old Country, as in the Xc-.v, candidates come forward when there is a vacant constituency who are entire strangers ; and, unlike Artenius Ward when he said, " I have tiie .i^ift of oratory, but I haven't it about nie, ' these men havinj,' n(j lrf liiemselves, the best man thev i-'.iw i;et within themselve':, or one well-known to the great body of the voters, who will jjerform a straight- forward, honeht, and conscientious part in the conducting of their affairs. There are some fine buildingi in Worcester, some large public in^>titutions, such a. ihe Anli(iuarian .Society, the Library, the \'. M. C. A., the Asylum, and several Homes for the \\)o\\ the Aged, and the Infirm. The city can boast of some very fine ( hurches, about thirty, most of thcin of the Congregational order. 'I'be Inilariaus are largely reprv.sented in Worcester as all over New l-aigland. We spent a happy .Sunday in Worcester. In the forenoon we were induced to preach in the Old South Churdi. In the after- noon the minister himstlt preached, taking his text from the .\< ii. i'sahn at the 13th verse, frtjm which he gave a studious and most excellent discourse. In the evening, a special united meeting was convened in the i\ev. Mr. rhiliji's chun h, whidi we addressed, the sul.iject being, by re(iuest, " ( !hur( h-life and Methods of WOrk in Scotland." The large church was densely crowded, and all through the service the ])eople were most reverent and attentive. At the lime of my visit, the churches known as " Evangelical " were having special evangelistic^ meet- ings, and in a considerable measure were enjoying revived life and prosperity. On Monday the ministers of the iov/n had their monthly or quarterly meeting. I rei eived a kind invitation to 228 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. that meeting, and had in this way the pleasure of seeing most of the ministers of the town. The object of these quarterly meet- ings is first to promote brotherly intercourse, then to advance the spiritual life and work of the churches. One of the ministers read a paper on, " How best to awaken and interest the Churches in the Work of Evangelisation." The subject was discussed by the brethren with great fulness. One minister, in speaking on a branch of the subject, told us that for seventeen years he had had a number of earnest young men selected out of the congre- gation, and recognised by the Kirk Session, as doing special work for the Church among the non-church-goers of the district. These young men visited the district as arranged, kept a private note-book, and reported cases of interest to the minister as they occurred. The minister spoke of his church as receiving much good year by year through the labours of these earnest young men, whom he called " The Pastor's Committee." Such meet- ings among ministerial brethren, exchanging ideas on Christian work, are most useful. They quicken and stimulate to healthy action ; they call into play new trains of spiritual and intellectual force ; they help to facilitate expressions of opinion on social and religious (questions. But we must not omit to mention an interesting visit to an in- stitution which Mrs. Witherby took us to see. The institution is for respectable old women. It was principally got up and fur- nished by the Christian ladies of Worcester. It is a model in- stitution — clean, well-conducted, most comfortable and cheerful. There is a perfect freedom, and a feeling of home life about it. Mrs. Witherby is a constant visitor. She devotes a great deal of her time to the institution. She took us through the rooms. On the walls were " fixed " beautiful texts and mottoes. Con- versing with an old inmate, she said, referring to the motto on the Wall of her room, "I read that when I lie on bed and cannot see my Bible." We were greatly pleased with our visit to this benevolent house. The warm glow of Christian love and sym pathy is felt within its walls. May heaven bless and prosper all il'ORCESTEK. 229 such institutions. It is good to remember the feeble, the needy, afflicted, and such as have no help or helper. "Inasmuch," says the Master, "as ye do it to one of these, ye do it unto me." The thought that here arises to one's mind is this — amid all the ills and sorrows of life, an earnest Christianity is at work that has at heart the interest and welfare of humanity. They are happy in- deed who labour in their spare hours to sweeten the sorrows of life, and so bring back to hearts " the shadow of departed bless- ings." Mrs. Witherby and others in the i)erformance of their Christian efforts, merit the support and grateful sympathy of the Christian public of Worcester. .\n institution so admirably pro- moting the material and spiritual good of the aged, must go far to brighten and re-make many a life, and therefore deserves our highest commendation and praise. CHAITKK XX I IT. BOSTON^TIIE CITY OF THE PILGRIM FATHERS. TT was with a fcelinp; of s])ccial interest that I visited IJoston, the city of the Pilp;rini leathers, frdin the fact that I hnd several near relatives residin^^ in and n..ar the c:ity. IJoston is the capital of Massachusetts. The older part of the city reminds one of an English town more than any other city in America. It claims to be "the centre of the universe;" and though in size, industries, and commercial pursuits, it is far behind New York, St. Louis, or Chicago, it is yet a large, important, commanding city, one of the foremost in America. Its population i', consider- ably over 300.000, and fiom its name as a city c-f intellectual eminence, wealth, and social refinement, if not "tht^ -^entre (jf the universe,'" it may be looked upon as the Athens of the New World. I will not attemi)t to treat of Boston and its many traditionary associations at great length ; yet, as a prominent town, it may be of interest to the reader to point out those principal objects of importance in and around the city which have left an indelible impression upon my mind. Mr. \\'uherl)y, whose name we have mentioned, accompanied us from Worcester to Doston. On arriving, our first business was to pay one or two short visits : that done, we went to the Common, a large, wooded park, finely laid out, almost in the centre of the town. This fine park is enclosed by an iron railing, and wi h its grand trees, its monu- ments, and its inviting walks, it is admired greatly by visitors, and spoken of through all America as " the pride of I'.oston society," and of national interest. At the upper end of the park near by, stands the massive House of State, commanding a nosTOiV. mnqnificent view of the city. We went to the top of the build- ini;, and had a s|)lendid iianoramic view of the town and neii;hbourhood. Inside arc to be seen monuments of fine artistic beauty and paintini^s, the work of hi^h art, descriptive of the revolution in the early history of the country, conveying to the mind traces of heroic bravery, dauntless couraije, and thoughts of sacrifice and loss, in relation to many homes and many sorrowing hearts. On leaving the State House we were taken to an old elm tree on the Common of national fame, one of the olde>t trees in America, a relic of historic times, the centre of many a i)oi;,tical gathering, and familiarly known as " Liberty Tree." It is said to have been planted before the settlement of Boston. In 1S52 it was nearly destroyed by a severe storm which swept over New I'ngland. Since 1854 »his venerable elm, some\shat broken down, is protected by an iron fence. Adjoining the Common is a public garden of twenty-four acres neatly laid out, ornamented with a beautful conservatory, with many choice plants and flowers, and with walks, ponds, and some fine erections of artistic statuary very pleasing to the eye. I'Vom the public garden we went to the business part of Doston. The older streets are very narrow and irregular. Either they were originally intended to be so, or a snare must have got into the plan of the city, and the builders getting en- tangled, gave it uj) for a bad job, and followed the man who laid the first stone. The newer streets, especially in the more fashionable parts of the town, are broad and fine. Common- wealth Avenue, a view of which is here presented from the bridge, is one of the finest streets of any city in 'America. As to the site of Boston it is well chosen. The city is built ii|)on an oblong peninsula of uneven surface, rising at three different points into an eminence, one of which is nearly 140 feet above the level of the sea. The original site was called Shawmeet — an Indian name, meaning " Living Fountain. ' The first owner of the peninsula was John Blackstone, who sold his 3t s i; ^*]\ C I fiOSTOX. " riglit and title " for ^30 The early settlers <;ave the towii the name of i'reniont. Il was aftcr\v;irds chanucd to IJoston in honour of tiitj Rev. John CJotton, whi; went from IJoston in the old country, and who has heen well described as the Mclancthon of New I'jiL^land.' Passing from these historic references, in addition to the Stale-House, the ("ommoti atid Public (larden, the i)rinoston. They belong to very different schools of faith though bearing one name. Some of them are evangelical in their teaching ; they are after the type of Dr. (^banning, whose minis- try moved, inspired, and for many years led the thought f)f Xew llngland. Chanalng was a most wontlerful man ; he was " i)re- eminently a (.'hristian preacher." ihorougidy good at heart, h^yal to evangelical sentiment, and though not recognised as " ortho- dox," he manifestly believed, and much more finnly than many of the most "orthodox,"' that Jesis (."hrist was the Son of (iod and Saviour of the world. He was a Unitarian by name, but he was, says Dr. Ularke, "a maii better than his creed." The spirit of a high Christian vjharity touched, moulded, and inspired his great exairi,)le and his every pulpit utterance. In tlie words of another, " Ciiann'ng, though a Unitarian, was by national sentiment a Chilstian minister.' He entered into ccjmmunion with Christ ; and because he found in Christ, as the Son of Cod and Saviour of the world, the loftier and more spiritual idea of God's "holiness," which is the highes?: standard oi Divine hei]), he worshii)ped Him, giving Hini honour and glory e(iual with the I'ather. And here it is wheru the Evangeli< al Liutarians always api)ear more noble than tiicir creed. Dr. Taylor, one ot their own ablest theologians, has said, " There is but one hand in the universe of life, and that hand is the hand of Christ, the Son of Cod and friend of man." Theodore I'arker's belief was altogether of another tyi)e ; he 236 AMF.KICA AXP THE AMERICANS. rcpr-jsentcd another, and a very difTcrenl, Unitarian school. His writinj;s, frt)m every point of view, lack tlie vitality, the philanthiopy, the charity, the sacred devotion, and the power to l)ity, comfort, and heal, which so su[)reinely characterize the writings of Channing. lUit the fact is that the theology of J5os- ton has of recent years greatly changed. 'I'heodore Parker's teai hing has almost died out or is given up. Theology, liUc eveiything else of a changeful nature, changes with time, and it must change if it is to be (jf service in governing and leading on the ever-growing thought of the generations of the world. Nor should any object to the phrase when we say, "evergrowing thought"; for, if religion be "a living thing," thought must grow, and growing, must change with the ages to have any spiritual reality and any hold on the world's higher life. " The faith of Christ " must be infinitely more to the mind and heart of Christendom than a supreme record or tradition; and since "the faith of Christ " grows with the ages, theology, as expressive of that faith, must widen and change immeasurably. But all this leaves the truth unimi)aired, nor does evangelical doctrine suffer as a result. Vet many good people are afraid, they are alarmed at the movement ; it causes them pain, and they try to check it and kee[) it back. Ijut the (juestion refuses to be silenced, and will refuse, until the churches are made willing to respond, and yet further with friendship and grace lu consider its claim. But why should we be alarmed at the attitude of theology ? Why should 've be afraid of the changes that are taking place in this and in other countries? Let us remember that saying: Magna est Veritas et praevalelnt, and let us feel that on this basis Evangelical Christianity is absolutely without danger from any change, and absolutely safe. To some the issues may appear in the distance as the dark shadows of a black cloud overhanging the religious world, and others may wonder and seriously enquire "What after all is human life to gain in the end?" The "gain " of this very change, let us reply, is in good hands. The prophets, the seers, and the apostles, have long since passed It OS TON. tyt from the world, hut the truth remains with inspiration, unction, power, and blessing, for those whose personal loyalty to Christ leads them to follow Him as their I M'vine Lord and Saviour. ^Ve have, therefore, nothing to fear, for no change through which the truth has passed, or may yet pass in future years, can in any way render it less »' vine or less mighty as tlu one sui)reme power ot the wcjrld which, by the law of righteousness, is eternal. But even now the Christian Church is only very slowly appre- hending what " the faith of Christ " really is. For a long series of years Boston, though able to claim some eminent and highly-honoured theologians, was yet without a man of master force in inllucncing the religious faith of New Eng- land. The Rev. Joseph Cook, known to us as the author of The Boston Monday Lectures^'' is, as a " Defender of the l-aith," the greatest preacher in New England. His lectures on themes of theology have extended over many years. We had the pleasure of hearing one of them. It was on " The Life Here- after," and was all through a forcible, masterly, and striking argument on the doctrine of immortality. His lectures have always attracted immense crowds. He is very elocjuent as a speaker ; he possesses a theological and critical mind ; he deals with great subjects, and, combining in himself intelligent piety with intellectual culture, he is able to influence the best life of New England. Some of the Americans consider him the greatest preacher and the most honoured champion of orthodoxy in the present day ; others, again, while affirming that he has done grand service in the cause of religion, say that he is inclined to be too traditional for the theological thought of America. Nevertheless, he is recognised by men of all creeds as a man of inspired power, a man of prayer, a man as genuine and devout in spirit as he is fearlessly and intellectually strong. Joseph Cook is not a minister or mere lecturer for the sake of earning a livelihood. He is a thinker and a Christian teacher, a man who I lives Christ and who speaks of Him as the life and power of t theology for all time. When we retired from the lecture the | 23* AMERICA AM) THE AMEKICAXS. deepest thought in our heart was this : '• (lood-bye, thou noble, thou l)ravc defender of the faith ! (lod bless thy testimony to the truth, and as the apostle of orthodoxy to .America may a rich reward crown all thy works of faith and labours of love." But. turning our thoughts in another direction, we were struck with the immense amount of business done in n-any of the establishments and "stores" of Boston. The activity, courtesy, and politeness of the storekeepers pleased us very much, '•'riiey play their part well,'" as a friend remarked, "and go through an i normous amount of business in a day." No master of a business in America will long retain in his emi)loyment a man who is not active, smart, and interested in his work. The rule in Boston, as in other cities of the United States, in pur- chasing goods is " ready cash." On one occasion r well-known and highly respectable gentleman, in buying some goods, ran short of money. Goods to the extent paid for were delivered at his home, and no more, though it is said he had purchased the double of what was delivered when in the "store." \VY'll, this is what a stranger purchasing goods might expect, but the gentle- man referred to was not a stranger, and so the incident illustrates the general style and business rule in purchasing goods in the '* stores " and establishments in the cities of the New World. I have been asked, " since Boston is said to be ' the centre of the universe,' and a city of much wealth, are there any poor people to be seen there?" "and do the poor," it is further asked, " get the help of the rich ? " There are poor [)eople in Boston, as in other cities. Poverty is a burden which the world has carried from its infancy. " Oh, to be wealthy,'' says my earnest reader, " and able to help the poor, say one in a dozen of the many who call at my door !" Christian kindness, liberality, and courtesy, are everywhere manifested to the deserving poor in America, and to a greater degree than in the Old Country. This is evidenced from the ' hilanthropic institutions, homes of refuge, and homes of chatii;, which every city of America pos- /i OS TON. 239 sesses in large numbers. Boston is not behind in tliis re^[)ei t. Those of the class of homes, hospitals, and institutions, referred to that we had time to visit, pleased us very nuK h. They were all so tastefully clean, so thoroughly well kei)l, and so remark- ably pleasing in their interior effect as to deserve only highest praise. The Rev. Mr. Hrook, a popular clergyman in the city of Bos- ton, has well said, '• There is with us too much |)overty, Un) much drunkenness, too much distress ; these things make the whole world dark ; yet we labour in hope and in the faith that light may arise, that our nation may grow and advance toward that glorious time which men of [irophetic vision tell us is soon to dawn upon our world.' As they prophesy in America, so let us labour to — " Aid the 'dawning,' tdnqiie and pen, Aid it, cry all honest men, Aid it paper, aid it type, Aid it, fur the hour is ripe."' We visited with much interest the Bunker Hill monument, one of the greatest attractions of Boston. The morning was some- what dull and hazy, but th.e haziness cleared away, and standing on the top of the monument we had a magnificent and tar-reach- ing view of both land and water. Bunker Hill is a place of historic fame in the suburbs of Charlestown. Tlie monument is commemorative of an eventftil battle which was fought in this district in the great revolutionary war when the American nation obtained a famous victory over the Britisli. Of this victory the Americans delight to speak. They are indeed very proud of it, as the light of their eyes indicate when telling the story to a stranger from the Old Country, The monument was erected to the cause of civil and religious freedom, it was dedicated in 1843 by a solemn ceremony, on which occasion the celebrated Daniel Webster delivered an eloquent oration. The obelisk is of granite. It is 221 feet high, and we counted 300 stone steps in going to the top. 240 .\MF.i;it'.\ AXn TIIF. AMERICANS. The way up is fatii:uini^ and somcwhnt tedious, but the fine view from thi' heii^ht well ie|>a\s nny effort to ascend. The friends accompanying; us did not venture to the top, since they had been ohin there before and were periia|)s somewhat wearied. After viewing the city and its sui)urhs from the heiuht and rej^ain- inj; streni^th, we descended and found (jur friends resting on a L^arden seat where we left them. We had not exchanged many words when one with the ap|)earance very niu< h of an "Irish tram])" drew up to us, and hfiing his hat said, " \'our h(,nours, I'll take you round and show ye the spot." W'e declined his offer with thanks, saying that we kncjw all about it, and that we were strangers to IJcjston. This was not enougli. He was not so easily shaken off. So he began, as if especially addressing myself, to enlarge and with tragic vehemence on the memorable battle referred to, denouncing IJigland, but graciously freeing " auld .Scotland " from any blame. \\'hen he found that we turned to go and would not listen to his tirade — told perhaps a thousand times on the same spot for a few cents to get drink — he pro[)osed "a glass." " No, you have too much already, ' said one. ".Sure, ycr honour, I haven't tasted for a waak and more." " Why do you say that ? you have a strong smell of drink u[.(jn you," remarked my friend. " How d<; you explain that if you haven't tasted for a week and more?" Like a true Irishman, liis reply was ready, "Sure, your honour, it's easy enough ex- plained, it must be one of the company. ' In the neighbourhood of iJunker Hill is the United States Navy Ward, a jdace of many memories and of much interest. 'I'his Xuvy ^'ard embraces a hundred acres of ground; and to its claims and ca|)abilities, in the safety and welfare of America, belong ail the honours worthy of this most extensive place. From the Navy \'ard we next visited the Harbcnir, and spent a good deal of time in seeing the shipping. The harbour accommodation is large, and considered exceedingly good. . ., Our friend Mr. Witherby gave us an intr(;duction to one of the ' " chief harbour officials, from whom we got a good idea of the -^': i .'it ■ " ^■X rilK tl.LI. IIULMf., NtUllLKKV .sTKtLT, UOsIO.S. i6 242 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. shipping in general, and the state of the harbour trade. The slipping in B(jston has always been one great source of the growth, wealth, and prosperity of the city. A large trade is here carried on with India, China, and other distant lands. The ship-owners have now but little reason to complain of "dull times.'' A revival in the shipping line is very manifest. The wonder is that so many trading vessels not only find something to trade in, but that they are always so busily employed and seldom or ever disappointed of a cargo. I availed myself of the op[)orlunity when in Boston of paying a visit to the Public Library, and was greatly struck with its size, its fine assortment of books, and its crowds of i)e()ple of all ages and sexes perusing newspapers and periodicals of which there was an abundant supply. ^Ve were shown over the Library by Dr. Clark, well known in Boston and over New Ennland for his able advocacy of Missions and his extensive knowledge of all kinds of literature home and foreign. The library was founded in 1852. Since then, over 7,000,000 books have been circulated — "books embodying solid thought," said Dr. Clark, "and repre- senting every kind and class of literature and reading." The Library is supported by city funds, legacies, donations and sub- scrifHions. Its yearly income is about ^26,000 ; it is managed by trustees, and employs in its service one hundred and twenty- five persons. " How is 'Thcclogy ' circulated with you," I enquired of Dr. Clark. " Theology," he said, " is rather at a discount in a cir- culating library." Let no reader with a disposition to censure the Americans and their literature conclude, that because "Theo- logy " is not much circulated by their public libraries that books of this class are not read with them. The Americans have their great University and College libraries, and if we measure their reading on theology by these, we may then believe that know- ledge of theological literature is the boast of all educated Ameri- cans. Perhaps the good citizens of Boston may sympathise with the remark of the old Highland woman to a young relation /iOS70X. 243 about the Pi/i^runs Pro'^nss, when she said, " Och Maggie, ai c ye no feared to read sic a gude book, an' this no the Sabbas day." A great deal has been said in praise of the ladies of Boston as if they were above the averai^e of American ladies in birth, man- ners, talk, and appearance. In an article whicli appeared about mid-summer in one oi our ably conducted monthlies, the writer, in describing the IJoston ladies, extols them as "so bright, so handsome, so noble, so dignified, and so highly cultured and re- fined, ' as if to make us believe that ihey are '' angelic," or separated from any near relationship with womankind. No doubt in a city of wealth and fashionable life like Boston, many noble specimens of the fair sex may be seen, ladies of high posi- tion, refinement and culture; but at the risk of offending our fair cousins in the capital of New England, they are, after all, very much like the ladies of " fashionable society " in other cities. Those writers who, from personal observations or other- wise, so extol the "virtues" of the Boston ladies at the expense of others, contribute but little or nothing to the sense of that true credit which is woman's highest praise. The poet fittingly puts it, giving praise where praise is due, — " A lady's noLIcsl station is retreat, Her fairest virtues lly from ])ul)Iic sight." We were greatly pleased, indeed fascinated with the city of Boston. It is, we can sincerely say, because of its many attrac- tions, and because of the law of association, enshrined in our heart with feelings of admiration and life-long memories ; nor is any city of ancient or modern date more replete with historic interest and lofty recollections than Boston, if for no other reason than that it is the citv of the Pilgrim I'alliers. " The men who gave this nation liirth, The Pilgrims of tlie sunset wave ; Who won at firat this virgin earth, And freedom with the soil they gave. Soli Deo C/orta," CHAPTKK XXIV. THE VICINITY OF IWSTON. "Xj OT a few of our most pleasant memories in recalling our vi lit to IJoston gather around places in its vicinity. 'I'hree miles out, in the (juiet town of Cambridge, across the Charles river to the north-west, stands the famous seat of learning kn(nvn as Harvard University, the Oxford of America, and the oldest of its kind in the New World. It was founded in 1638, a few years after the landing of the Tilgrim I'athers, by the Rev. Jolin Har- vard, who be([ueatlKxl to it a legacy of ^800, which from time U) time has been added to, so that the university is now richly endowed. As to the College buildings, there are some fifteen of them in all, mostly located in C'ambridge, except a medical school in r>oston. Sometimes the university scholars of the Old ^\'orld smile, if they do not sneer, at the university honours which come to this country from the other side of the .Atlantic, as if these honours were no indication of scholarship or attainments, and of more value. But as to Harvard and Yale, they are, and have long been, equal in their degrees and standard of graduation to any of our universities in the Old Country. Both Yale and Harvard Universities can show in their history many illustrious names on the list of their professional staff. Harvard suggests the names of Longfellow, Lowell, Wendell Holms, Phillip, Agassiz, Whittier, and a host of others, men of the highest repute and of the most scholarly reputation. The library of this university is a very extensive and a very fine one. It contains an immense collection of books from all parts of the world, some of them very rare. A good many from our own country may be THE VIC m IT) ■ OF r.OS TOX. 24 5 seen on its shelves. The Hbrarian remarked to us that it always gave them pleasure at Harvard to have a donation from Old Scotland. And with the smartness and instinct of a true Yankee, as with excellent j.;ood taste in conversation with a Scotchman, he added, " Your bo(jks are of a hi^h order ; they invariably furnish us with a literary treat." Then he went on to say something like this, "The other day, after reading half over, or attempting to read a book on ' Symbolism," that some author had sent to the lil)rary, not willing any longer to bewilder my senses and lose my intelligence in following the theories of a mere sentimentalist, I gave up the book as a bad job, and put it on the shelf as so much lumber that should have been buried out of the way." " But isn't a college library omnivorous?" I said. " We are always glad," was his reply, " to have good books sent to the library, and we are never disappointed with books from Old Scotland." We thanked him for this compli- ment to our fellow-countrymen ; and, in here recording it, let us hope that it may be turned to some account on behalf of the Harvard library. This university embraces all the grades and various branches of college study. ,\t first it had no very real distinctive character, and was little more than an ordinary good class school ; but under increased requirements and the management of eminent men, this institution grew to its present dimensions. Students of every name and denominational type attend the Faculty of Arts, but in the theological classes the large majority belong to the Unitarian body. Harvard may, therefore, be said to be a Unitarian Uollege, though it is due to the resident professors - those of them in connection with that body — to state that they are not by any means of a narrow, I igoted belief. They are quite the opposite ; most liberal and lolerant men as they a-e, scholarly and cultured. In proof of their liberal spirit, we may mention that evangelists, ministers, divines of the most orthodox creed are asked now and again, as opportunity occurs, to address 246 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. 'he theo'oiical students, and otherwise to take part in services conncM ted with the university. On one o< rasion the distinared in mind and heart to hear it, consequently they came away with a deeper apprehension of its meaning. As to Longfellow, his songs and poems filled our early dreams. How pure and ennobling their influence have been upon the world ! They are ever new, ever sweet, and sweeter still. The poet, his whole life through — if we may so express his mental 24S .-/ MRRTCA AND 771 F. A.VF.k'/CANS. and spiritual attitude — l)elievcd in Truth, Trust, and Poicer, In Truth outgoing ; in Trust inworking ; and in Power ongoing ; and all the three making for the triumph of righteousness over wrong in the world ; and with that deeper and more steadfast assurance which only a great poet seer can see. In our (juiet life in the country we hold fellowship and sweet communion with the poets ; we draw from Longfellow's songs from different sides. We find them sweetly devout, full of spiritual meaning, ever fresh, ever breathing fortii that hirge divineness of soul which enkindles enthusiasm, love, and delight as we try to realise in imagination that actual life and experience which may he ours, as expressed by the mind in the songs of the poet. Longfellow was a man of great personal goodness and nobility of character, exceptionally fitted for the work to which he was called when a professor at Harvard I'niversity. His culture was gentlemanly and broad, his readiiv^ widely extensive, and his learning multifarious. " In all things,'" it is recorded of him, *' he disjilaycd a rare insight into that perfection of human nature which is the glory ol man by virtue of his powers to attain to." Longfellow's time at Harvard was pronounced a boon and a blessing to the students of that university. Retiring from the college he spent the remaining years of his life at Craigie House writing on the sweet, inspiring themes which have comforted and cheered those souls who brood on life's mystery, with words of tenderness and beauty as with music set to the facts of his own spiritual aspiration. The following is beyond question, the finest sonnet he ever wrote : — " As a fond mother, when the clay is o er, Leads by the hand her little child to bed, Half willing, half reluctant to he led, And leaves his broken ]ilaythings on the floor, Still gazing at them through the open door, Nor wholly re-assured and comforted By promises of others in their stead, Which, though more s]ilendid, may not please him more ; /•///; VICIM lY ('/■• JiOSTO.W 249 Sn nature dcalN with us, and takes away Our playthings one by one, ami hy the hand Le.id-i ii-i ti> rest sd gently that we go Scarce Knowing if we wish In };n or >tay, Heing too full of sleep to understand How far the unknown transcends what we know." When the mournful event of his departure took i)larc. thousands and thousands felt in the bereavement th it they had sustained a personal loss. What better or more lUtim; tribute could be rendered to the poet's memory than thai which is con- tained in the following; lines : — '• Up and away, like the dew of the morning, Scaring from earth to its home in the sun ; So let me steal av/ay, gently and lovingly, Only remembered by wiiut I have done. Not myself, but the truth that in life I have sjxikcn. Not myself, but the seed that in life I have sown. Shall pass on to ages-all about me forgoUen, Save the truth I have spoken, the things I have ilone." Returninj^ to Boston, I had a long conversation with the Secretary of the American Hoard of l^'oreign Missions, on the operations of the Hoard in foreign parts, and on the religious aspects of New iMigland. He w.is a grent admirer, I soon fr und. of both Longfellow and I'cll, a ship of sity Ions burden. 'J'hey sailed to I'lyniouth wliere they joined the May- jlo'wer, a vessel of a hundred and sixty tons lying in the Southampton waters awaiting tlieir atrival. On the 5th of August the vessels weighed anchor and set out on a voyage to cross the great Atlantic. The Spi'tdwcl/ proved unseaworthy, and the whole band sailed in the Ma yj/owcr Q:ir\\ i.. September, Their [)arting from loved friends in H(;lland was an affecting scene, "with many elements about it," remarks Or. I'unshon, "of the moral sublime." Money was scarce with the Puritans. Only a hundred could be taken to their new home. Those le- maining claimed that their pastor, y^V/// Robertum, should remain witii them, who has been well described as "a bioad-soulcd, sensible man, in the midst of an extreme narrowness of religious belief." Hut he breathed a pure, high-toned life ; he was an earnest interpreter of I)i\ine things : a strong, skilled, brave man — a true hero, yet of a sweet disposition and gentle as a child. 'I'ruly it was a tc;uching sight to look on the parting of these Pilgrims. ''They went out." like .\braham of old, "not knowing whither they went," nor how it would be with them after they crossed the .\tlantic. 'i"he vessel, remenibcr, was but small. Would she be able to brave the stormy sea? W'cjuld all on board arrive at the long wished-for shore? Kre they set out they engage in earnest prayer, and the answer that comes in the thoughts that move their hearts bespeaks their destiny and safe arrival. We look on the vessel shining in the radiance of the sun as she leaves the Southampton waters. We an.xiously follow her in our mind's eye, as she proudly circles round the bay. We watch her with reverence, wiiii prayers, and with eyes of wonder. We say, " with solicitude indeed, but without misgiving " ; — " Sail on, sail on, ye mariners, Ve shall not suffer wreck ; While up In (k)il the I'ilijrims' prayers, Are risiiii; from your deck. i6o .iMF.h'/c.i .ixn rni-: AMZ-h'/cAXs. Sail on, sail on, yc sca-f;irl ship, Willi l)lcssini^s and with hopes ; Sail on, sail on, no shadowy hands, Arc pulliny at your ropes. Take heart, take heart, ye mariners. (Jod's errands cannot fail ; Sail on through storm and wind and tiile, 'rhroiii;h darkne.i.-. and lhroUL;h hail. TaKC coiiraj^e, (.) ye Tili^rims true, The po>l yu yet shall win ; And all the bells of (Jud shall rin^, Vour yood ship bravely in.' We must forbear dwelling on the voyage. The weather proved stormy, and, with the discomforts to which they were otherwise subjected on the small ship, we can pardon a certain cantanker- ous leeiing exhibited at times by them. They made Cape Cod Hay on the iith of November, where they anchored till they should send e.\i)editions to explore the land. At first a suitable locality was difficult to Hnd. Clreat hardships had to be endured. At length they fixed on a spot, and landing, on the 23rd De- cember, they resolved to found a settlement, which they called New Plymouth. 'J'he winter was very severe ; they had but imperfect shelter, and were but badly fed, consecjuently sickness set in, and carried the more fcible of them to an early grave. In the first months of the. history in the New World they re- sembled a patriarchal family. They were governed by one or two of the bravest among them who, in their wisdom, gave counsel and ruled the household. By-and-bye they provided a Constitution for themselves, in which they dutifully acknowledged King James of England, " but left no very large place for his authority." Under this Constitution they prospered ; and good men, feeling It difficult to live in England, and more so after Charles the Eirst came to the throne, took sail for the new settlements. Here they built small townships of wooden huts, here they laboured hard and here they suffered, but after a few years they overcame their difficulties, and began to live in comfort and prosi)erity. AY/f /■:.V(;/..-ixn ./.\v> rfj/c/oi's nnr.Rrv. rr.i Having glanced at the historical combination of forces which led tlie Tiiritans to New England, we may now note sonic of the laws and principles which guided them as a body politic. They were a br;ive, stout-hearted, n(jble peojjle. No dit'ticultics of soil or settlement could long resist their steady, industrious, labori- ous effort. In 1631, eleven years after their settlement, a law was passed that "wlioever should :cfuse the office of governor, being called thereto, should pay a fine of twenty pounds." 'I'his suggests that some one in those early days must have been shrink- ing from the respunsibilites of office. " It is a pity," says an author, "that we do not know his name, for in these days, when position and honour are so run after, he would have earned an immortal name very cheaply." They made attendance on Lord's Day ordinances con)pulsory. Xo man was to be free unless he was in full church communion ; whiU-, as a matter of fact, not one-fourth of the adult part of the population, from the way in which they were separated and otherwise compelled to live, coulil have ever been in full communion or in counnunion at all. Their churches were of the Congregational order. The sujiport of religion was made compulsory on the inhabitants of a parish or township, as was the education of the young. A school- teacher received hveire pounds of a salary and was considered well paid at that figure. We may be asked, " Where did their teachers come from, and what education ha 1 they?" Some intelligent, fairly well-educated young man was fixed on and " entreated to become schoolmaster." In the same way able, sober, godly men were chosen as the ministers of religion. " Horse-racing," we find, "forbidden'' by them, and '"walking about late at nights." Drunkards were most severely punished, so were convicted liars and men who uttered profane oaths. A certain Mrs. ?•. was brought before the court upon " a charge of falsehood," but the charge was not proven. She was dismissed with the admonition that she was to beware of " unnecessary talking." "Admirable counsel, and suitable for all ages!" One Mrs. H. was charged with falsehood and fined ten shillings. 262 A ME NIC A A XV THE AMEi - day as the " Pilgrim lathers," whose spirit is doubtless still alive in the nation and most active in all the moral influences of modern civilisation. CHAPTER XXVI. NEW ENGLAND, ITS Rl'R A f. I.IEE-MUS. HARRIET JUiECIIER S'JOirE — EA/EA'SOA, J HE EOET ■ RHILU- SOPH ER -MAN UEACTUltIM; INTERESTS. "IXTHI^N Daniel \Vel).ster, the celel)rated statesman of America, affirmed that the memories of New England were the pride of his country, and of immortal fame " he affirmed only," says Mr. P>lanc, " what is still recognised by all authorities as strictly sol)re truth." New England has always been with the Americans the pride and boast of their great country, and whether viewed in its characteristics of art and industry, or in its political and ediK ational institutions, or in i's moral and religious history, or. indeed, in any aspect of thought and action, it has a tiiousand tender, undj'ing memories, by which it is linked, and as closely linked in living interest to the Old World as it is to the New. Our friends were especially anxious that we should see the villages and the rural districts of New England, and we shared in the desire. Rural life suggests many rencclions ; and whether walking in the woods under the shade of the pines and elms, or in the villages seeing the men busy, and the children at play, it is very pleasant, '["here is a calm, sweet repose, a traiuiuil beauty about the country life of New England which is n(jt experienced by a traveller in the same way in any other district of America. In some parts the scenery is en( hantingly beauti- ful, while among die white mountains it is so ronuniically grand and imposing as to be in sobre thought beyond all description. The small towns and country villages look so pretty ; and those of thim which lie embosomed among the hills are exceedingly picturesque, rendered more so in w inter, as we imagine, by the RURAL J.//E JN XRir ENC.I.AM'. 267 "leafless trees in black against the snow." This reminiscence may here sugj^est the enfjuiry, whether it be our feet or o;;r eyes that guide us in life ? \\'hich should it be ? If it be our eyes rather than our feet then let us ask, Do we always see and appreciate the glory and beauty of Nature ? The cottages and country villas of New England have all nice gardens in from tastefully laid out, rich in flowers, and well kept. The homesteads and old farm houses are comfortable- looking. They bespeak anliijuity and hospitality. The churches are mostly all painted white. How sweet, how lovely, how pure they look among the trees and evergreens growing around. They seep^ to whisper of faith and immortality, and to ask the soul, " What crown could we put upon you except that of a pure and beautiful life ? the crown which is your glory and reward, and which fadeth not awny." Are we wrong in believing that Nature loves these sacred buildings more than she does any other house "made with hands?" At all events, she beautifies and adorns them, watches over them and takes them to her bosom with more than a mother's tenderness and care. As to agriculture in New England, the old class of farmers of the I'uritan type — that class whose (pialities of heroic industry, intelligence, and action so lpearing, and will soon be wholly extinct. In referring to this, Mr. l^dward Harry, \\\\u has had a long ex- ])erience of New ICngland, states that the chief cause of this extinction is traced to the spread of knowledge and otherwise to the march of civilisation. It should also be remembered that youn., men brought up in the country are much more inde- pendent than they used to be. They leave their home at an early age, and go to some near town where they may better push their way. The same thing 's taking |)lace in the country districts all the world over ; and hence the jjopuLitions of our towns is increasing, while in the country it is decreasing. Then, again, the fortunes which many have made, and are making -as it is reported — on the rich lands of the vast territories west f)f 26S AMERICA AND THE AMERICASS. Ohio and the Mississippi, have influenced thousands ; conse- quently we do not wonder that the small farmers of New F.ng- land and their sons, who, feeling the drawbacks of a poorer soil and a poorer living, should yield to the greater attraction and go to that part of America whicli j)romises best to repay their labour and toil. The conclusion of all this clearly points, and at no distant date, to the complete extinction in New England of that heroic class of agriculturists, whose memories the nations and kingdoms of the earth must long venerate and America honour as " the pride and glory of tne New Wc Id." But it is urged, both by Mr. Marling and Mr. Collington, that this migra- tion from New England to the far west will be beneficial to the common weal of the great brotherhood of America in the spread of those principles of integrity, industry, and virtue, which have gained so high a name for the New England people. This idea is strongly urged by these gentlemen, but identified as they are with the lands of the far west, the idea is of less value and should only be accepted for what it is worth. We must look at facts and see how tiiey a))ply in the history and moveinents of the world : and in doing this it would not be ditificuit to show that the principles and virtues of those who have left New Eng- land and migrated west will not be strong enough — strong though they be — to overcome the worldly com[)etition, the intense selfishness, as Ruskin would say, the love of gain, in the low, enslaving aims of that time-serving life which so robs the nation of its beautiful future, and takes from mankind the gar- ments of the great departed. Travelling in America we were much impressed with the woods, the forests, the lakes, and the great rivers of the country. Gazing on these we were filled with rapturous admiration, ^^'e seemed to see mysterious signs and to hear mysterious voices in looking on the mighty Mississippi, the St. Lawrence, thf Ohio, the Hudson, and others, all great rivers, enchanting in their splendour and beauty, and fascinating in their scenery. New England, as a district, is not behind. It abounds in beautiful J/A'.S'. HARRlEr BEECHER STOlVE. ^69 rivers, fine meadows, large lakes, hills, woods, and forests of every variety and condition, all of which excite in the mind of the naturalist a real enthusiasm, and " fit the country to be called," as it has been said, " a land of dreams." Among the towns and places which we visited, in addition to those already mentioned, wc may mention here the city of Hart- ford, a city of Connecticut, with a population of 30,000, a lovely si)ot in point of natural environment, but more lo\ely still in point of historic associations and pictures of life vivid to the mental eye. Hartford is known as the residence and home of Lushnell, the far-famed theologian, of Mark Twain, the clever humourist, and of Harriet Bcechcr Siowe, the well-known author of " Uncle Tom's Cabin," besides others honoured as men of more than loCc-^l fame. To Mrs. Stowe we had our first introduction when visiting in Brooklyn. Hut couiing t(j ilart- ford, we spent the greater part of an afternoon at her sweet, lovely residence, so beautifully shaded by the countless branches of the overhanging trees. The house is built of dark, red store, and has a very comfortable, hospitable-looking api)earance. Room opens into room, all of which are neatly and richly, though not extravagantly, furnished. Mvery table is loaded with books. The walls are hung with fine paintings, etchings, and engravings. In one room there is an oil painting of Abraham Lincoln, the finest, as a work of art, to be seen in America. Mrs. Stowe has undying admiration, and affection deei) ^^'"''i ^''^'^j *"'' ^^'^ memory of Lincoln. She talked of him as *' a king among men, a hero, a statesman, and withal," she added, "a humble Christian." The old lady was dressed in black, as she usually is, I believe, and with her beautiful white hair brushed aside, resting on her shoulders in curls, she looked to me much younger than I had expected to see her. She talked feelingly of the hero of her fascinating story, and when I told her that I had heard '' Uncle Tom " preach, and had spent an evening with Iiim and his wife on the occasion of their last visit to this country, she looked at 270 .}m/-:a'/<\i ./.^7' /•///•; am/-:k/c.l\'s. 1110 for a moment in silence, as if thinkiui; on the time when she wrote the scenes of his hfe, then with eyes beaming, and with a smile playing on her (oimtenance, she saiil. ''and you heard him preach, and spent an evening with him ? \\'ell, what did \oi: think of his sermon ? Were vou favourahlv impressed with it?"' " \'ery much so, indeed," I remarked. "Do you re- member the text?" she asked, "and where was it ?"" ''I remember it well," I replied, "it was in Hebrews, xii. {h;ipter anIic licauty saw, Ant that licauty which mir eyes Turn til, when love ami synijiathy i^row wi>e, And paMS throuLjh mikt-: and clouds to soncjs of rc.->l. Mr. r.ecchcr had liis own share of the trials and troubles of life, we must admit, and in diverse ways, hut by the inspiration of his faith and bv the workin'^ of his love in converse with the Unseen, those trials and troubles became as parts of a ilivinc disci[»line, and developed in him such a beautiful spirit, in all (Christian uenerosiiy and harmonious wlmleness, that it proved the deaili-doom of all that was so strangely advanced or attem[)ted to be advanced against him. How maivelkuis are the ways of Providence with i/ood men of great gifts. The best men suffer most, while the worst men suffer least. In his trials and troubles Mr. Heecher learned, as he was w(jnt to say, the most spiritual and most precious lessons of his ministry. And now that he is gone to another world, ere yet the I. ipse of time has set in, the great .American nation reads, as with new eyes, the marvels of his life, and everywhere proc laims his praise, and will continue to proclaim it for many u long century to come. We have referred to Mr. Deecher's life and ministry in a lormer chapter. W'e would only here add in a sentence that all descriptions fail to make us realise his wonderful jiower (ner man, unless we remember what he used to say that he got his experience not from the creeds and dogmas alloat in the ecclesiastical world, but from dod working in him, through Christ the Son of God, and Saviour of mankind. He truly surrendered himself to the indwelling Spirit. 'i'iie love of (lod was his supreiT^e inspiring power, and standing before men as an ambassador for Christ in full vision of the throne, he was not afraid to preach those glorio'ts truths which had been too long kept in the background. The Westminster divines were, without a doubt, great and good men, and their views of divine truths have satisfied many millions, yet they dwell too much on the stern side of the divine character to the exclusion of the other. Mr. J7-: AMERICA AM> IJIl: AMliRICAX.^. liccchcr spoke ot God not as a stern Judge, sitting upon His tiirone to condemn mankind, but as the l*'alher and Friend of all, our brother-man, our Divine Lord and Redeemer. Such a ministry will abide in the memory of the American nation for ages yet unborn, and will be to the Christian world at large a " heritage more precious than of lands or gold." At Hartford, in the house of our friend Mr. Littlejuhn, we met a gentleman one evening who, with no rudeness of manners, was yet a brilliant talker on all to|.>ics of conversation. He had just returned from a visit to (lermany, and had a great deal to say on schools, colleges, and matters of education in general ; and, notwithstanding the high position which is due to the schools of (krniany, in this gentleman's o[Mnion the American system of free education excelled every other system of all the niany systems that lill ihc world. '• \'ou arc before us in the old Country in many thin^^s, ' he remarked, addressing himself to me, "but you are a long way behind us in your common schools and your national system of elementary education." 'ihat much we had at the time reluctantly to admit. But now things have changed. Our Covernmcnt has adopted the system of free education, greatly to the benefit of the poorer classes of the comnmnity; so that, in matters of ordinary school education, we are now in the Old World very much on the same fo(jting as in the New. In connection with education in America there is in all the large schools in the cities what is called a " probation class,'' where new comers are kept in trial for three weeks before they are admitted and enrolled as full scholars entitled to all the l)rivileges of the school, such as free entertainments, free books, and sunnner trips. This "probation class'" is ([uile an Ameri- can idea. It is intended to correct irregular attendance at school and other abuses which stand in the way of successful teaching. The city of Concord, the cai)ital of the State of New Hamp- shire, was another place which wc visited when staying in New EMEKSOJV. 27i England. It is an inteicstiPL; town, siiuatcd on the River Nlcrri- niac, some fifty miles north-west of Boston, with a population of something like 10,000. liut our visit to Concord was too hurried to admit of our doing it and its surroundings justice. Its streets are weh-mado and well k(j[)t. After passing through a few of them the friend who was with me said : " This is an important town,'' and from the general appearance of its beauti- ful lesideiices, its large institutions, and its fashionable life, we agreed that it must b*.' "a most important town," and a popular place of resort. W'c naturally enquired for the house of the famous and highly distinguished Emerson, the poet-philosopher. The thought of this house before I saw it had a fascinating influence over me. The philosopher himself is no longer there, having died in the spring of 1SS2, but his house, now occupied by his son, Ur. E!merson, is very much as he let"t it. It stands not far from the historic bridge where the first shot was fired in the Revolutionary War. There is nothing particularly striking about the house, but it is interesting as once the home of this illustrious man, this far-famed poet-philosopher. His library is a great study; it is not large, but it is well selected, and of the best (juality. The books are arranged so as to be easily reached, and they are all on the shelves as v.hen Emerson handled them. Many of them are well-marked, as if thev had been often read and well-used. As to the other rooms of the house I need not enter into particulars further than to say that they are well-furnished and beautifully kept. Mrs. I'jnerson, the widow, is still alive and in the enjoy- ment of good health and of all her faculties. She is able to be about, though, unfortunately, on the occasion of our visit she was confined to her room suffering from a bad cold, and we had not the pleasure of seeing this dear old lady. The estimate in which Emerson is heUl .imong the thinking people of America is very high. But like many others whose names are celebrated in history, he had to toil long and to do a vast amount of solid work before he attained to much popularity. 18 174 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. Tile higlicsi yreatncss very often docs not come all at once. It was toward the latter years of his life that his name came to the front in the schools of thought, and that he became known to the world as a great philosoijhcr. Many attempts have been made by the guilds of literature in this country and America to describe Emerson as a thinker, a man of books, a philosopher, and a public teacher. To add to these is here no i)art of the \ Titer's province ; but in all that has beer dvanced in praise of this great man, little has been said to reveal him in private life and society. We may therefore be allowed, in a sentence, to state, from a letter in our possession received from a gentleman in IJoston, a close and intimate friend of Emerson, that he appears to have been a delightful and fascinating companion, *' I have spent," says this gentleman, " many a pleasant hour with him."' Then he goes on to state that though Emerson was a man of brilliant conversational powers, yet in private life his talk was generally simple ind easy, and v_ry different trom his thoughtful writings and his masterly speeches delivered to large audiences. One or two remarks strike me in this gentleman's letter as worth quoting. " Emerson, unlike many," he says, " was in all moods of mind an accomplished listener; and when in society, in the company of those with whom he was not very familiar, if he descerned anything officious or jjrcsuming, or un- generous, fussy, or disappointing, he was eloquently reticent, and had but little to say to them. But any one having his confid- ence and familiar with him, found Emerson n, most agreeable companion and derived much pleasure and inspiration from his conversation. He was a generous, warm-hearted, true, and sympathetic friend." As to his writings and doctrinal position we may not always agree with him. His teaching, it is said, is altogether, "aside from the principles of evangelical Christianity." That means — according to the views of some well-meaning people — that it is out of harmony with their belief, and conse- (juenily no part of true religion. But as Professor Momerie would ask, Who in matteis of "faith" can be the judge /■:.]//■: A' so A'. of true religion? Even to raise the <|uestion betrays an in- credible ignorance of the real nature of moral and spiritual truths which are, as we (ind by the testimony of the senses as well as by the testimony of scripture, self-attesting to minds able to realise them. l'eo|>le have heard that iMuerson is "heterodox,"' and taking this UMtlcr for granted, tlicy ncjt only do not read his writings, but they pass on the " heterodoxy '' to others as an in- dis[)utable truth. It a man does not care for my writings, if he does not read them and judge for himself, is it any i)roof at all against me what he says ? Or should people care much for his oi)inion ? \ct this is the secret to a large extent cjf that age- long " heterodoxy "' which is passed on from one generation to another. No doubt a good deal that lunerson said, in lecturing on religious subject, must have been deejily peri)lexing to young minds. In his writings we find much sjjecially intended for mature consideration, .md for the world to retlect upon and to think over from more points of view than one. To readers of shallow thought this is perplexing, But what is the fact ? Is there not much in history and tradition, yea, is there not much in the Lible itself that is perplexing and even staggering to the youthful mind. Hut as our interest in the precious book deepens, as our s[)iritual experience grows, as we bring a thoughtful mood to bear on the doctrines of the Ilible, we come to see a new and a richer meaning in their teaching, and to be more charitable with those who reverencing the Divine Being, yet differ from us on (juestions of doctrinal interpretatiun. Our religious systems, our views of moral and spiritual truth largely spring out of, and are largciy coloured, by our religious ciilture and experience. All through his career Emerson was an ardent lover of nature and a devout student of the Bible, realising in it the actual life not in fancy, but in reality and in conscious nearness to his reason, in contact with the higher aspirations of thought and feeling. Then as to the heathen, he affirmed that the human itistinct among all nations and races, and among men of all ages, 276 AMERICA AX J) THE AMERICANS. is in support of the doctrine, that man is the oflspring of the the (iod and I'ather of all. To a certain divine somewhat ignorant of his writing, curiously ([uestioning the philosophei as to his theological belief, he very fittingly replied, " My belief is before the world, and when the time comes for revision the world will pronounce a final judgment, and for the benefit of those who may not know.'' On the cjuestion of Emerson's theological position there is no lack of information and com- mentary. Love was the central truth of his teaching, and to him, the definition, '* Ciod is love,'' was perfect. It was as George Macdonald would say, " the meeting-ground on which man meets man, and through which he is immortal, related to God, and destined for perfection." And these views, founded on revelation, were calculated, as Emerson maintained, to deepen earnest religious conviction, rather than to shock the faith and feelings of men. But, enough, and more than enough, h.as been put before the world of recent years to show Emerson's belief. Indeed, if all the articles and papers written on this great man were collected and put together, they would fill not merely a few volumes, but whole shelves of a library. How any educated or fairly well-read divine, could be in ignorance of Emerson's theological views in this age of l)Ooks and reading material, is not very easy to be accounted for. By Emerson's death America lost a bold and original thinker, a poet, and profound philosopher, a man of genius whose teacliing gave a new impetus to the educational, literary and theological history of his time. The people of New England are recognised all over the world as ingenious and full of resource. The invention of machinery and its application to commerce and labour, the spread of technical and general education among the working classes, the erection of mills and factories in the chief centres of population, and the increase of all kinds of mechanical and industrial forces. — These things show the ingenuity and resources of a people in every (luarter of the globe and in every country. But in New England the commercial and industrial instincts and interests are in M.l.Vr'FACTrKfNC /NTr.KESlS. 277 *-# ™ I — ■ I 'I II - - - ■■■■ .. ■ I I I— I I ■ ■ ■ some things, by common consent, far ahead of almost every nation of the civilised world. In company with Mr. MCulIoch, a young man who some years aj^o, went from (Uasgow to Lowell, a manufacturing city 25 miles north-west of I'oston, the writer had the i)lea.sure of visiting the large mills there ; and we are happy to record tiiat we were much jjlcascd with our visit. And we were the more pleased with our visit because we found tl.at in the erection of these large mills attention had been paid to the comfort of the workers, as ajjpears in matters of good ventilation, plenty of fresh air, space to work in. order and cleanliness, and in other arrangements of a beneficial nature too little thought about by many of our mill owners in the old country, who profess to bo leaders of the peo|)le and interested in the onward movements of social life and industrial labour. I may mention that the lot of the factory workers in America, and of the working classes in general, has a better industrial basis than in the old country. In the first place they have higher wages in America; then they have more comfortable homes, a better social position, i)urer pleasures, more strength of character, and in some way a higher moral instinct and more independence of sj^irit than the same class have in England. They feel themselves in a world not of hopeless struggles, but rather in a world that has in its various j)ursuits and occupations a i)roper proportion of comfort and remuneration with which to enrich their lives and their material condition. In visiting the large factories in Lowell we were especially struck with the appearance of the workers, 'i'he girls are intel- ligent, genteel, and for their position well-educated. Tiiey are never seen going to and from the mills bare-headed, bare-footed, and poo'-ly clad, as the factory girls in Glasgow and Dundee ; but well-dressed, and in fact looking like ladies of the middle class. They earn an average of seven to eight dollars, and some even ten dollars per week, Ihe result is that they can live well, 278 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. dress in good style, and if they are willing, they can lay aside something for future' life and old age. " At the present time," .ays Mr. Burns, " the labour question is the one question agitating the nations of the world." In the large manufacturing cities of England, the "position and life" of the factory workers is a problem receiving some attention. At a recent Christian Conference held in Glas- gow, the labour question in relation to the factory girls was discussed at great length. There were differences of opinion in the conference, but the majority of those present thought that for one thing, the hours of factory labour were too long. Con- tinuous labour in a close factory, it was argued by Mrs. H. Cooke, is a great oppression to girls, and injurious to both physical and moral life. To see a conference of Christian men and women convened in the interest of factory girls is surely a sight for sore eyes ! It is, however, one of the many signs of an advanc- ing age. Some think that to shorten the hours of factory labour would reduce the wages. But as Mr. Halsey points out, long hours and low wages as a fact in the history of commerce go to- gether. The scale of wages depends upon the manufacturer's prosperity, and that depends again upon the purchasing power of the people. Some of our more cautious advisers in this matter say that if the hours of factory labour were shortened, our manu- facturers would be so handicapped that it would be impossible for them to compete with foreign countries. But as it has been well said, it is not the cheapness of our manufactured materials, but their quality that secures for us the markets of the world. There was a time in the history of industry when our manufac- turers were regardless of : he quality of their goods, because there was little or no competition in the foreign market, little or no money in the country, and consequently the cheapest goods were the most saleable. That time has passed away, the markets have changed, the demand now is for the very best goods that can be producea. As to the manufacturers of America, we may be sure that with all their wonderful implements and MANUFACTURING fNTEKESTS. 279 machinery, with all their trading skill, capacity, and genius, they will not fail to turn their labour to good account. Of the manufacturing interest of the United States in com- parison with other countries, one needs to be possessed of more knowledge as to the trading than we can lay claim to. But this is certain that the manufacturing position of America is rapidly developing. " In some of our specialities the Americans may not be equal to us," says Mr. John Leng of Dundee, " but in their own they surpass us." Their mills have all a prosperous appearance ; their workers are all well paid ; they send out first class goods, and the reason is that nothing else would pay. The Americans have plenty of money to spend and they will not purchase an inferior article. Nor is this idea without its signifi- cance. It shows that the manufacturing interests of America are safe and in keeping with the intelligence and the onward growth of that great country. With regard to the ever-recurrent problems of capital and labour, it is in any country, and from any aspect of view, a much- vexed subject. For when one manufacturer, trading in the teeth of another, sends his material into the market the tenth of a penny cheaper all round and quite as good, there must be in the competition between the two manufacturers a wrong done somewhere, or a difference made somewhere in the trade, call it fair or unfair. Now, what is to be done to the manufacturer or trader who sells below his neighbour? Nothing, and he knows it. What, then, is his neighbour to do? He finds that in some way he must cut down his expenses. But how? He cannot buy cheaper machines and cheaper looms ; he cannot add an hour or the minute of an hour, to the working day of his employees ; nor can he purchase his raw material at a cheaper market, or economise it in preparation but a trifle. What is to be done ? The only thing for him to do, he concludes, is to reduce the workmen's wages, and thus we find throughout the civilised world it is the working man that generally suffers ! In saying this, it is not to be understood that we are taking sides 28o AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. with any one class, or in any way advancing our remarks as an apology for the working men of England. The working men, in the competition and the struggles inherent to industry can, with their increased education and growing intelligence now very well take care of themselves. They have the power to think, to organize, and maintain their rights in a Christian community, and so far as the material elements of life go they are able in every sphere of labour to fashion and mould their own position; and if they would unite their strength and endeavour to bring their intelligence and sympathy into full accord with their master's interests, they would do much to benefit themselves and much to put on a surer and better foundation the industrial interests of the world. Of course all know that Socialism is at work influencing the nations and trying to arouse the Christian community to a sense of the fact that on it rests the responsibility of an ideal state of society. But an ideal state of society, so long as indolence, envy, drunkenness, greed, and selfishness exist, is a long way off. At the sHn-ie time Christian men must not grow indifferent and heedless in the matter, thinking that of necessity things must remain as they are. No, " we must," as Emerson says, " accept the place which Providence has found for us, the history and connection of events, and do all we can for the divine idea which every man in some degree represents." The oracle or law of truth runs, " We are members, one of another," and holding by this law, because mankind are bound to it by a spiritual aflSnity, all classes should labour in harmony and brotherly sympathy, striving to seek the health and happiness of the entire com- munity. Our hope for the future of humanity lies not in any Socialistic movement nor in any legislative measures, but in that mutual love, esteem, and regard, due from man to man, which are to be established in the earth by a Divine hand and a Divine influence. CHAPTER XXVII. AMERICAN HOTELS AND HOTEL LIFE. TT was a true remark and of moral insight which is credited to Swedenborg, the mystic, in answer to a question bearing on the ethical laws of a particular nation and people when he said, " If you wish to know the real life and inner relations of a nation and people, the best means to employ is to study the hotels of their country." "The hotels of a country," says Mr. H. Greer, " have a great history and a great central influence about them. Their ethics, so to speak, reveal national character and show how life moves from home." American hotels are a great study. They are a distinct institution in the life of the country. They are as a general rule larger, grander and far more numerous than in the old country. In all the cities, towns, and villages of America these institutions are conspicuous. They are built after the French style rather than the English. They are large and numerous in order to meet the requirements of a vast country and the needs of a people who travel much. Whole families, newly married couples and old married couples, reside in these hotels. And young men also board in the hotels, gentlemen who either do not wish a private house of their own, or who cannot find, unfortunately, a suitable person to look after it. Young men in America do not as with us reside in lodgings or board with private families. There are no doubt exceptions to this, but as a general rule the majority of them prefer living in boarding-houses and hotels. During my visit to Chicago I met with several families whose home had always been in one of the hotels of the city. To us, in the old country this seems strange and an expensive way of 2S2 AMEA\'CA AND THE AMERICANS. living. But as we have said in the former chapter the Americans have money and they use it for their personal comforts. Besides, special arrangements are made by the proprietor or manager of the hotel with those who adopt this mode of living. Mr. Blane of Chicago told me that many families can live cheaper, and with more style and sociality in a hotel than in houses of their own. They are better served and have less care and less trouble about things. In America house-rents are high, and good domestics are most difficult to find. Then again, the Americans like to travel about and see the world, and they do travel far more than the English and Scotch people do. Add to this, as in France, so in America, families are small, there being seldom more than two or three in a family. Four or five children are considered a large family, and all this favours travelling and living in hotels. Going into a city a traveller is sometimes in difficulty to make choice of a hotel. At Philadelphia I asked a gentleman which hotel I should go to. He named one and said, " I guess you should go there ; it's the best in Philadelphia." I asked another gentleman. He named another hotel and said, " it's the most fashionable and the best in the city." A third gentleman recommended a third hotel, and speaking in its praise concluded by saying, "it's the best and cheapest in the city."' And so, I suppose, had I asked a dozen gentlemen, a different hotel would have been named by all of them, and every hotel " the best in the city." The fact is that people in general have only the personal knowledge of one hotel in the place ; and if it be a good and comfortable house, it is invariably spoken of them as the best. At Philadelphia I did not select any of the hotels recommended, but went to another more convenient ; and I may say, as the gentlemen said, " it was the best in the city." In the busy season American hotels are usually crowded. The public ofifice of these establishments is of great convenience. Here the proprietor or manager, cashier and clerks, are to be found. A traveller goes into the office, and if he wishes AMERICAN HOTELS AND HOTEL L/FE. 2S3 rooms, he is taken to apartments, inquiries are answered, and all needful information supplied with the greatest civility. It is in this office you find a telegraph counter, a barber's shop and a boot-black's chair. You don't set your boots outside your bedroom door at night to be cleaned by morning as in this country. You have to clean them yourself, or get them cleaned on your feet. The ordinary ch i"ge is ten cents ci' fivepence in English money ; but the charge is often higher. A gentleman may pay 15 or even 20 cents for the blacking of his boots in New York. A friend of mine tells me that he once paid 24 cents for getting his boots cleaned and 75 for getting his hair cut. What do you say to that my dear economical reader ? The American " shoe-black " knows how 10 charge as you may infer. But returning to the hotel and the office ; here the letters are arranged and put into the boxes with numbers corresponding to the rooms. Here, too, a traveller receives information about railways, steamboats, and other things he may want to know if a stranger to the place. He may also secure a ticket to any part of the States where he wishes to travel, or if he is very anxious indeed, to any nation in Europe ! And by taking his ticket here he will save himself all that trouble, pushing and crushing, often encountered at a busy railway station. Then in every hotel of America there are large " baggage " rooms, where a traveller may leave his luggage with perfect safety for months and months. The proprietor is responsible. There is also a newspaper and bookstand in connection with the best houses. In addition, the grand establishments have shops attached to them, where the necessaries for travelling can be obtained, though sometimes at a little more cost than elsewhere. Of all cities in the world, travellers from every nation agree that New York is the city of neat hotels. To give the reader some idea so as to enable him to judge of their greatness, grandeur, and current expenses, we present the following items and particulars. The figures are taken from " Glimpses in America." They relate to the con- 284 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. sumption of beef^ eggs, oysters, fish, milk, etc., and show some- what of hotel life in New York. The writer says — " Fifteen hotels alone require 54,000 lbs. of fresh meat weekly. Of this quantity about 35,000 lbs. are beef, and as a bullock averages about 1000 in weight, one might suppose a few would suffice. But consider that these hotels use, or profess to use, only the best pieces, and the slaughter must be large. About 350 bullocks every week, or 20,000 in the year, are needed for these fifteen houses. 60,000 lbs. of fish and 15,000,000 bivalves go the same way ; 3240 quarts of cream, and 27,330 quarts of milk, 8875 lbs. of butter, 13,210 lbs. of sugar, 2795 lbs. of coffee, and 685 lbs. of tea, are in the weekly bill of fare in these establishments; also, 5290 head of game, and 2450 lbs of poultry a week; 10,000 barrels or flour and 20,000 of potatoes a year. One hotel uses four boxes of lemons a week in cooking ; another uses a barrel of oranges a day ; and two or three of them have been known to consume weekly 3000 lbs. of grapes. The fifteen hotels — which include the Grand Central, the St. Nicholas, the Sturtevant, the Windsor, and the Fifth Avenue Hotels — consume weekly 24,000 lbs. of soap. The washing of table linen, towels, etc., signifies about 19,000,000 pieces in the year. The average weekly consumption of gas in these fifteen establishments is 1,873,000 feet. They can provide, in an emergency, beds for 7640. They require 600 male servants, with as many females • and they boast of having 4622 rooms; and it is estimated that the receipts average about £8000 a day." The above figures and particulars are given by the author of •' Glimpses in America," as verified and reliable. What a daily consumption ! What an enormous turn over of money ! Yes, the turn over is enormous ; but it is not all profit. There must inevitably be much waste in these institutions, and losses, besides the wear and tear, which must come to a very heavy item. The grand hotels of America are all magnificently and extravagantly furnished and decorated. The bedrooms ure most spacious, airy, and pleasant ; not like the miserable, narrow, stuffy places that AMERICAN HOTELS AND HOTEL LIFE. 285 one is often put into in London or Manchester, Edinburgh or Glasgow. But though it is allowed that New York is the city of grand hotels, there are other cities where these establishments are of larger dimensions. At Saratoga, for example, one huge hotel has 1000 rooms, and all of them furnished in great style. Some of the finest hotels in America are in Chicago. I visited the Palmer House, the Sherman House, and the Grand Pacific Hotel. Their size, style, and grandeur are beyond conception. The Grand Pacific occupies an entire " block," and cost over a quarter of a million sterHng for the building, and £70,000 more for furniture. On one occasion, travelling in Austria, and stay- ing for a time in the city of Vienna, we were struck with the si/e, grandeur and style of the hotels of that far-famed city. But many of the hotels of America are larger, grander, and in every way superior to the finest in Vienna. The rate of charge depends on the size and quality of the hotel. At the best hotels the charge runs from four to five dollars per day, or about one pound in our money. This includes meals, bedroom, and attendance. There are, however, good hotels where the charges are from two to three dollars a day ; and there are smaller hotels in the poorer localities of a large city where the charge is only a dollar and a half a day, and smaller houses still at one dollar. Wines and liquors are not included. But wines, spirits, or beer, are seldom used at the table in America. There is a great deal of drinking, no doubt, but it is not at the table, but at the bars and saloons. Temper- ance sentiment, however, as we have before remarked, is growing in the States ; this fact indicates a change in the character and customs of the people, and is most conspicuous in connection with the hotel life of the country. The hours of meals gener- ally are : — Breakfast from 7 to 11 a.m.; dinner from 2 to 6 p.m.; and tea and supper from 6 till midnight. The bill of fare always contains great variety. We here insert an ordinary bill taken from the table of a hotel in Washington : — 286 AMERICA AM) J HE AM ERIC A XS. DIN NER. Sour. Oxtail. Turtle. Tonialc). Mixed Dish. Fish. Doilcd Salmon and Sauce. Toilet de Sole, a la Colbert. Potatoes Stewed and Fried with Sauce. Warm Dishes. Uoiled or Roast l!eef. Tongue. Ribs of Beef. l!cefsteak. Mutton. Mutton Choj«. Oysters, Turkey. Goose. Chicken — with Sauce. Coi-u Dishes. Leef. Mutton. Tongue. Salmon. Turkey. Chicken. Lobster. Lettuce. VEGETAni.ES. Potatoes — Boiled, Stewed, or Mashed. Tomatoes. Beans. Succotash. Beets. Creen Corses. Onions. Pastry. Rice Pudding. Apple Pie. Plum Pie. Ncsselrode Pudding. Tarts. Dessert. Grapes. Apples. California Pears, Peaches. Raisins. Green Tea or Coftee. The above bill of fare is but an ordinary one. It shows con- siderable variety, and may be considered a fair specimen of an ordinary dinner-bill at an ordinary hotel. It is interesting for a stranger to see a large dining-hall filled with two or three hundred people at dinner. The Americans do not waste much time over their meals, except when friends meet. Nothing is heard at dinner-halls but the sound of knives and forks, and the move- ment of busy waiters. From ten to fifteen minutes is about the time that business men spend over their dinner, and some of them despatch it in less time even than that. At a hotel in New York a stranger came in to the dining-hall at the hour of dinner one day. He seated himself at jne of the small tables near to where we happened to be sitting, but he seemed greatly puzzled with the bill of fare, and had difificulty in making up his mind A.^fEK/CAX HOTELS AND HOTEL LJFE. 287 what to order. Several others who came in at the same time had actually finished before lie had ordered his first dish ; nor did the waiters assist him. I overheard one say, "Ah, he's English, he's English." Time is money to an American. It must not be wasted at dinner. But this way of hurrying through, and actually bolting one's food, is very bad and injurious. How- ever, it is not so much the custom now, even in America, as it used to be. The waiters in the principal hotels are largely of the negro race. I found in my experience the majority of them well-disposed, smart, obliging men. Sometimes when we did not know all the dishes on the bill-of fare the waiter would explain. At other times we would say, just bring us something new and nice. The negro waiters in a good house do their best to please. Nor were we ever disap- pointed, except once in Cincinnati, when leaving it with the *' darky " to bring us something "good and nice," he brought us something — well, I know not what it was, but seeing I stood in doubt of it he brought me another and more palatable dish. On one occasion in Paris, I asked a French waiter to bring me something " new and nice," and what did he bring ? A " dish of frogs," and after served me with horse flesh. The frogs, fried and prepared for the table with a kind of sauce, were delicious. The horse flesh is rougher in the grain and sweeter to taste than ox flesh. Oysters are very general and a famed commodity in America. We did not particularly like the taste of them at first, but by and by they became more palatable, and as a table dish we write in their praise. I greatly enjoyed the fruit, which is abundant in the United States, and always a good supply at the table. But how does the hotel life of America affect the people ? This is -n important question. Whole families reside in this country, as we have said, in hotels. To us, with our old ideas of home and home training, hotel life appears to be a very artificial way of living. Nor can we think it very healthy, either in relation to 288 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. the physical or moral condition of the people. Certainly it would not with us contribute to cheapness, nor to our ideas of social comfort. The hotels of a country are indeed most useful and convenient ; they furnish suitable and re.idy accommodation to travellers. What could we do without them ? They are, in the present circumstances of society, a necessity. But what place of public resort, however well-ordered and good, can be equal to the private home, where domestic life is sacred and secluded from an "obtruding and impertinent wo ' ^ ? " "Home" is a sweet, sweet word ! " Home, sweet home, ^ ere's no place like home." For domestic training, for training in morals, the bringing up of a family in all that is sacred, civilising, and pure, there is " no place like home." In hotels grand some have their home, " From care," say they, " we're free," Still what of that, my own sweet home, Is better far to me. In other homes I greet you all, No home would we despise, But what of that, my own dear home. Is sweeter in my eyes. But as presenting a contrast in the experience of travellers to the United States, we may be allowed, in closing this chapter, to give a few sentences from what Mrs. Carbutt and her husband say as to American hotels. From what we here quote it looks as if they had suffered some obstruction or embarrassment in these institutions, or that they are too much inclined to make a mountain out of a molehill, if we may be pardoned for saying so. Mrs. Carbutt writes — " The great want in American hotels which is much felt by Europeans, is the omniscient porter of continental Europe, or the friendly landlord of English inns. The guide-books are very poor things, the waiters are generally strangers, so there is no means of obtaining information. The American landlord is rarely seen ; we saw him occasionally, and found him a curious creature. He is delighted to discuss the AMERICAN HOTELS AND HOTEL LIFE. 289 weather or politics with you, but if you ask a question as to how best to visit the neii^hbourhood, or the price of carriages or any- thing connected with his business, his dignity is up in arms at once. He considers himself a gentleman, and you want to treat him as if he were a hireling. As for the clerks at the hotel offices, tliey are ijroverbial for imjiertinence even in America. " The following is a specimen of ilieir manners. Our linen had returned from the laundress, and an important piece was missing, so Edward went to the office and asked the clerk to make inciuiry. ' Vou must have counted wrong,' said the clerk ; 'nobody wants your things.' This was in one of the best and oldest established hotels in the States." Possibly Mrs. Carbutt and her husband may have been too troublesome to the clerk, or too taxing, and at fault in the feeling of American projiriety, or they may have shown too sharp a con- trast in their manner for the Yankee intellect. The specimens, some may think, which Mrs. Carbutt here gives of American manners indicates a kind cf feeling like having "revenge," or a tone of " spite," which means a " blow," or sympathy lost and respect turned to hate. But American landlords and their clerks at the hotel offices must be accustomed to such things, and whatever a dissatisfied traveller may think fit to record against them by way of romance, if not of " revenge," gives them not a moment's thought, nor does it in the slightest affect their business. 19 CHAPTER XXVIII. THE CHURCHES OF AMERICA. HTHE Churches of America belong, as in the Old Country, to different denominations. The buildings are ot every form, size, and arrangement. Many of them are of large, spacious, handsome exterior, in many respects fine specimens of ecclesias- tical architecture. As a rule the walls are high, the doors being approached by a flight of stone steps. To the rear of the main building or below it, are halls, committee-rooms, minister's study, vestry, and other necessary church arrangements. One thing in particular, let me here mention in a general way, is this, the deep interest which the Christian people of America everywhere manifest in their respective churches. This is very pleasing ; it developes that earnest spiritual life which is seen in regular attendance on ordinary services, Sunday-school work, week-night prayer meetings, classes for the young, and work as- signed for the individual member. Nor do the Americans grudge either labour, time, or expense, to have their churches made in- viting and attractive. They believe in large buildings, wide roomy pews, carpeted floors, softly-cushioned seats, and every comfort in the sanctuary. Instead of the high pulpit once so common in the Old Country, there is in America, a low, con- venient platform, around which the furniture and fittings gather, and from which the whole interior looks admirably fitted for the purposes of religious worship. The seats downstairs rise some- what towards the doors, whilst in the galleries they are so graded and arranged that every worshipper may have a distinct view of the minister from any part of the building. The acoustic pro- perties are most excellent, the preacher, speaking in his ordinary THE CHURCHES OF AMERICA. 291 voice, being heard perfectly well in any corner of the church. Almost all the churches of America — in town and country — have spires ; some of them are very fine, and all of them are most graceful and artistic. These spires, the Americans tell you, give character and attraction to the buildings. They are a (luict but striking testimony to religion in a community if they are nothing more. They indicate sornctiiing of the energy, the style and taste of the American peo[ile. Not reckoning the Roman Catholics, the principal denomina- tions are the I]aptists, the Methodists, the Presbyterians, the Congregationalists and the Episcopalians. As to organisation, equii)ment, plans and efforts, these denominations differ, but in matters of faith and doctrine, they are substantially one, all standing by the fundamental principles of our common Chris- tianity, all active in religious work, and all a power for good. In point of numbers, the Baptists and Methodists rank high. "The Baptists," says Arthur Mursell, "are somewhat narrow, bigoted, and exclusive." There are, it is true, noble exceptions, yet it will not be denied that this remark is honest, and applies to them as a denomination. The Presbyterians in the different congregations so called are numerous, and make one strong powerful denomination. The Congregationalists are a large aggressive body, especially in the New England States. The Episcopalians are not so numerous, and in America as in I'3ng- land, there are two prominent schools in connection with the Episcopalians — the Ritualistic and the Evangelical. At the time of my visit to New York, the " Ritualistic " element was causing the Rev. Mr. Tyng and other evangelical clergy great annoyance. Among the Presbyterians and Congregationalists there is nothing but kindly feeling and close brotherly intercourse. There exists between these two denominations an " eligibility scheme," — that is, a minister of the Congregational Church, duly qualified, is eligible for election to a Presbyterian Church, and vice versa. If it be asked, How does this scheme work ? Does 292 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. religion in any way suffer as the result ? Not in the least. The very opposite is the fact, as with all readiness the reader may believe. The churches of America understand and can inter- pret religion better than that. They trust to it as the spiritual power of the world's progress, and that without prejudice in favour of one denomination more than another. Faith in Christ in the one church is as much the product of Divine life as in the other. " Dost thou love and fear God ? " " Art thou willing to undertake some active Christian work ? " asks the American divine, " Then, no matter by what denominational name thou art called we give thee the right hand of Christian welcome." The various systems or plans of church finance in America are of in- terest. Some churches have the ordinary " pew-letting system," others have the " subscription " plan, while others again receive the collection just before the sermon, and look upon it as part of the worship, as they do at Dr. Talmage's Tabernacle, Brooklyn. In many of the churches the " envelope " system is adopted, which means that each member of a given church brings so much enclosed in an envelope as his weekly offering, and puts it into a box at the door on entering the sanctuary. In those churches where the plan of " pew-letting " is followed, the pews are rented much higher than in the Old Country. Pews in America are called "slips." In the large fine churches a pew, say of five sittings, lets at lOo, 150, and 200 dollars a year ; and in some churches even more than that. In Dr. Hall's church, New York, and in Plymouth church, Brooklyn, most of the pews run very much higher than 200 dollars a year each. In some churches the sittings are let by auction, the highest bidder getting the best pew. " By auction ! " exclaims the reader ; " Do the Americans let their church-pews by auction?" I asked this very question at Mr. Scott of Plymouth, and his answer was, " We do, and I guess the plan is a fair and just one." Certainly there can be nothing very seriously said against it, though; with many church-going people in the Old Country it looks out of keeping somehow with religion, and would be THE CHURCHES OE AMERICA. 293 spoken against as very objectionable, if not unpardonable. But in these things it is all very much a matter of custom. The " auction " system has this in its favour, that all members and sitters have an equal chance. No favouritism can be shown to any. The money goes into a common fund, out of which the minister is paid and the other officials. The churches where the "subscription" system is in opera- tion, the members and friends of the said church are called upon monthly to give their subscrijition, or (juarterly, as may be ar- ranged. Then, again, in churches where the '* collection " is taken before the sermon, the people are trained, as we have hinted, to look upon their giving as part of the worship which at the time they offer to Almighty God. Dr. Talmage, .e remem- ber, thanked God in his prayer before the sermon for the " offer- ing " made to the Lord. He blessed God for those who offered heartily, while he prayed for those who had not made this part of the service a "matter of conscience." In some places we found the " envelope " plan largely adopted. We here insert a specimen envelope sent us by a friend in Bethany Church, Phila- delphia, where Dr. Pierson, who is at present on a visit to this country officiating for Mr. Spurgeon, was up till very lately the esteemed and much-respected minister. The envelope reads thus, and will explain itself : — " God loveth a cheerful giver. — 2 Cor. ix. 7. This Envelope is for your Weekly Offering to SUPPORT THE GOSPEL AT BETHANY, And is to be put in the Collection Box, Sabrath, April 18 " Upon the first day of the week let every one of you lay by him in store, as God hath prospered him. — i Cor. xvi. i, 294 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. This plan of giving so much weekly in support of religious or- dinances is Scriptural, and whether carried into effect by the en- velope or otherwise, when faithfully attended to, never fails to bring to the giver its own reward. But whatever plan Christian churches may adopt, it should be impressed upon the people to give heartily, systematically, and as they are able. Where real Christian obligation is felt, any method of church finance will work well and prove efficient. A great deal of attention is paid in America to sacred music. We have never heard heartier, finer singing than in the Rev. Dr. Rankin's church, Washington, and in Plymouth church, Lruoklyn. At the latter, worship began with a voluntary on the fine organ, exquisitely rendered ; then followed a short prayer ; after came the chant, " O God, Thou art my God, early will I seek Thee." There was a choir of over seventy; but what pleased us most was the hearty way in which the whole congre- gation joined in the singing. We mean nothing unkind to the churches at home when we remark, that as to sacred music they are in their own showing far behind the churches of America. There are exceptions, but, generally speaking, a great deal of church music in the Old Country, good in its selection, perfect enough in itself, and beautiful enough too, is not the inspiring power to spiritual worship which it should be. This is to be regretted. Of recent years the American churches have seen a great change in sacred music. Dr. Ritter, a musical authority, refers to this in a recently published work. He stntes that sacred music is being so studied, at the present time, in the churches that the Americans, above and beyond any other nation of the civilised world, are beginning, as by an inward impulse, to feel its power. The late Mr. Bliss, in his short day, did much to awaken an interest in the study of church music. So has Mr. Sankey done. His sing-ng mny not be so artistically and so perfectly rendered as some musical authorities would like, but it is acknowledged in America to have been a wonderful power in connection with THE CHURCh-.S OF AMERICA. 295 evangelistic effort. Any one, in true sympathy with a religious meeting, hearing Mr. Sankey sing one of his fine solos, will for long hear the echoes of his voice and feel its magic power linger- ing in the spirit, even at the distance of years. In good church music there is a lofty, holy elevation of heart and mind, and in this, a powerful and effectual means by which to deepen and to lead on the souls' life, because in such singing the spirit which is embalmed in the words is caught by the singers, and entering into the circle of devout thought deals first hand in the nature of things with the congregation's deepest life. Thougntful persons have always found their highest spiritual ideals, and their fullest expression of the inner feelings, in good music and song. One reason why so much of our sacred music goes for nothing and is of no spiritual value, is the fact that it is too thoughtlessly taught, or taught only with the view of satisfy- ing musical taste, and not wedded to the " emotions of a godly heart." Another reason is that, though singing be now system- atically taught in all good schools, yet the children are not so well instructed in this respect as they should be. They are instructed in a way, but in many schools they are not thoroughly taught. They never master the elements of music, except in the case of the few who are specially gifted. Then, there is a reason relating to the congregation itself in its acts of solemn worship. The psalm or hymn may be rendered with devout thought, and with a high degree of proficiency on the part of the singers, but what then ? If congregations be heartless and void of those devout emotions of soul which should characterise this holy exercise, it becomes entirely valueless as an inspiration to spiritual worship, and without any blessing of heart to an ex- pected end. For long, quartette singing, consisting of two male voices, bass and tenor, and two female voices, soprano and alto, was very common in America. But quartette singing is rapidly passing away ; the singing is now more congregational, r.nd is every- where rendered with that high musical proficiency, and that life zr,') AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. and heartiness which aid the worshippers in rising to higher levels of spiritual thought and feeling. During the years of large prosperity, when money was being made in all lands, the Americans paid enormous sums to church choirs. Some city churches actually paid from three to five thousand dollars a year for singing alone. But the depression in commerce and trade, which was so widely felt in the United States a few years ago, put an end to the expenditure of such enormous sums on choir-singing in common sanctuary service. The order of worship in the churches is much the same as in this country. There is first the voluntary by the organ, or, as in some churches, by the organ and choir, then prayer, then a hymn by the congregation, then the reading of the scriptures, followed ^.v a chant, another short prayer, a hymn, and then the sermoh. .. ne sermon over, a short prayer or hymn before the benediction brings the service to a close. The stated hours of worship are morning and evening. The Sunday school and Bible classes meet in the afternoon. In the summer season the churches of New York, Brooklyn, Boston, Chicago, and other large cities have three months of a holiday — July, August, and September, when families leave the cities and go to the country for a " change of air." But the cities during these months are not left altogether without church services. Two or three congregations in a district unite their worship, and so keep open one church for the convenience of those who are at the time still in the city. Do those churches who close for three months suffer as to their finances ? I may be asked. Not in the least ; the members and supporters of each church remember their obligations to the sanctuary, and of course bring their collections and contributions when they return. This is honest, this is fair, this is principle. And office-bearers, looking anxiously after the welfare of Zion, will see that this be attended to and not forgotten. In things material America has made extraordinary progress, but not more so than in things spiritual. The leading powers THE CHURCHES OF AMERICA. 297 nmong the denominations are the Old School and the Ne^v. For two hundred years or more the narrow faith of the Puritans of New England held America in its iron grasp. But a strong spiritual re-action has set in : a re-action animated with larger hopes and with a forward impulse in the churches' widest interest. Not that the main truths of the old faith are dis- believed in, and thrown aside by scholars. That is not so. But scholars — men of enlightened thought — now read a new and wider meaning in those truths. The love of God is more recog- nised as supreme, and more dwelt upon by preachers as the one chief power by which our spiritual faculties, desires, and purposes are raised and united to larger life. But it is not easy for many good people to sympathize with the faith of the New School ; nor is it easy for others to see the points of distinction between the two. The Rev. Newman Hall tells of a young American, who had confessed to his thoughtful aunt that he could see no difference between the Old School and the New, for, their worship and their preaching were similar. She replied, " Oh ! my dear nephew, there is a great difference, and I'm sorry you don't see it. The one school says we sinned in Adam, and the other says we sinned by Adam ; but — " (then after a pause) she added, " but which sticks to which I don't know." The supreme question among the Americans is not so much the " New faith " or the " Old," but that faith which quickens and enlarges the soul's life, and which satisfies the heart and produces and maintains the highest Christian character. Those, therefore, who so cling to the " Old faith " as to speak against the " New'' and against all change in doctrine, should ask them- selves, — Are the fundamental truths of Christianity destroyed thereby ? Human creeds and opinions change, but true, living Christianity survives all chcnge and becomes more real and more a power in the world as time moves on. The essence of Christianity in creating thought, as in sustaining virtue, it is allowed, is divine. Then may not that which is divine, the :o8 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. Americans would argue, produce higher views of the eternal truth than have been known as yet by man ? If so, let us believe that the " larger faith," so disliked by some, may have a deeper value as a ministry to our world than we at present see. To condemn the quickening energies of spiritual thought, where true, living Christianity is maintained, including personal for- givenness and reconciliation with God, is surely in a high degree foolish, and what we may yet have to regret. We live, we must remember in these times, in the knowledge and critical acumen of an advancing age ; and, whether in America or elsewhere, thoughtful men of the different schools attracted by an earnest Christianity, and imbued with a devout Christian spirit, are worthy of all hoJiour and regard. But the fear of some is, in case the churches of America, now so rapidly breaking away from the past, should become but " time-servers," and cease to be evangelical, and to be led in " pastures green." The wide spread revivals of religion, which so often take place in America, are proof against all such fear. Truth and love, in complete hold of the heart, are the two mighty propelling powers in the churches, and so it is not the " New faith " or the " Old faith " so much which tells on the world as that inexhaustible heart power, whose doctrines and life show men to be students, and honest in the sacred cause. Doc- trines as such give rise to endless discussion ; they can be con- strued to unite with any belief, and perforce to answer any purpose. One of the greatest masters of the human heart once said, " Doctrines are in themselves uncertain, disappointing, un- satisfying, and barren." Truth and love — so free, so unchanging, so sure — are of wider fame. They are the churches' power ; and like the mighty river they flow in majesty, refreshing arxi blessing everything with which they come in contact. Let us not be staggered, let us dismiss all fear as to the churches ceas- ing to be evangelical. Yea, let us honour the Divine love, kt us seek it in our chief delight, and we shall find that whatever doctrinal changes take place the Divine love can never change ; THE CHURCHES OF AMERICA. aqo it is eternal in the growth of thought, progressive, sacred, and sure. As a rule, the " clergy " of America aie men of high character, and of a high type ( f Christian ministry, I had but little oppor- tunity, comparatively sjieaking, of judging their preaching myself; but the result of my inquiries at the late Henry Ward l)eecher, Dr. Taylor, Dr. Cuylcr, Mr. Russell, and others well able to give an opinion, was that the sermons preached in America would compare favourably with those preached in the Old Country. Perhaps in America, among the more scholarly preachers, the tendency of the present day is to elaborate essays addressed to the intellectual faculty rather than to earnest, practical appeals to the heart and conscience. I did not hear, I must state, one poor sermon in all my travels, I admit I went to those churches where I was likely to hear the best preachers, and though they differed in the style and struc- ture of their discourses, their sermons were all interesting ; some of them were highly original, fresh, vigorous, and full of beauty both as to matter and style. To speak of the fauhs and failings of the American pulpit might be easy enough, but this is not at all necessary, nor is it to our credit and advantage to do so. It has been done too often, and bv an assumed superiority which, to say the least of it, is not very honest and pleasing. Almost all the people of America attend some place of worship on Sunday, •' not so much to listen to great sermons and able doctrinal discussion," writes an American bishop, " as to learn of Christ and to receive Christian inspiration and instruction." "Our spiritual sympathies in this country," he adds, " are with worshipping habits and aggressive effort." In an age of much hurry and pressure, we may be sure that good sermons rather than great, are the best sermons for any congre- gation. It is well sometimes to hear a great sermon, to be led with trembling awe to 1 «ok out upon the boundless prospects as from some lofty mountain peak of levealed truth ; but the rich pasture grounds where the flocks feed, and where the corn waves 300 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. lie in the vales below. Sermons for ordinary worshippinci peo])Ie should not be too elaborate, nor too scholarly and intellectual ; nor should they be long, wearisome, dull, and tedious, but earnest, thoughtful, inspiring, and full of that deep religious faith which is the inspiring, redeeming quality of the Christian church. Preaching should promote Cliristian sym- pathy and spiritual thinking, it should draw out our best instincts towards Christ's conception of men, and it should send the hearers away with their hearts influenced and refreshed, and full of enquiry and determination to be faithful to those most solemn vows made within the hallowed sanctuary. Some authorities in matters ecclesiastical tells us that " there is far too much preaching now-a-days." And it must be admitted that there is a great deal of honest truth in what they say. But the danger is not, we think, in " too much preaching " so much as in not making enough of preaching in the highest and best way. To do this churches require not " great preachers," but preachers distinguished for their intelligence and culture, for their humane, sympathetic views, for their power of arresting and interesting an audience, and of making luminous the spiritual subjects which they handle. But instead of this what is the fact ? In too many pulpits sermons are preached by men of good scholarship and good ability, and yet these sermons, speaking most charitably, bear no trace of spiritual thought and power in the treatment of the passage, or of interest and insight into human nature. I would not utter an unkind or ungenerous word, or a word that might crush or needlessly grieve any. Such words accomplish no good, even in the common things of life ; but I give it as the result of my experience that of too many preachers that I have known and listened to, I could not but deplore the preaching, and turn away from it with feelings of deep sorrow and regret, and with a strange disquietude of heart. The kind of preaching we refer to is but a matter of mere form, a something overlaid with a weary " religious sentiment," ortho- dox enough, and sensational enough sometimes, but without any THE CHURCHES OF AMERICA. |0| spiritual attraction, thought, or signs of godhness and power. 1 have been several times asked, " Do the Christian churches of America hold by the miracles and by the inspiration of the Bible?" Dr. Lyman Abbott, successor to the late Rev. H. W. IJeecher, and a man of wide knowledge, testifies that they do, on the " lines of the larger faith." Their belief, he says, in all the fundamentals is firm and strong, though tolerant and pro- gressive. It is not made a question in America as to which view of divine truth in the common bond of Christianity has been bngest received. The question rather is which view of truth is fullest of the Supreme life ? or, which view breathes in it most of the Divine love and its revealings ? The Christian churches of America rely on the divinity, per- sonality, and work of the Saviour. Christ is their God-man, their centre and power, because He is their source of life, their Lord, and their highest religious ideal. But in America, as everywhere else, there are degrees among the Christian people as to their divine ideal. Some have their divine ideal in the mere statements of a dry doctrinal belief, though, as preached, it changes no one's life, and makes conversion a matter of no con- sequence. Others find their divine ideals in popular attractions and in those sensational methods which bring some under "concern," but which have no genuine, spiritual, abiding, interest. The real Christian ideal surpasses all these. Its bless- ings are immediate, final, and progressive on the life and on the action of the soul and mind, renewed in righteousness, holiness, and truth. Not that our Christian life is perfect, otherwise all faith, discipline, and effort, and all yielding to the indwelling spirit, would be fruitless and of no avail, The press is far more used to advertise the Sunday services in America than at home. In the programme of advertisements which I saw in a New York paper some of the names of the churches struck me as odd. For example, there was " The Church of the Incarnation," "The Church of the Redeemer," "The Church of Calvary," " The Church of the Disciples," " The Church of the Holy 302 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS Apostles," "The Church of Strangers," "The Church of Sea and Land," and other odd names too numerous to mention. In several of the churches which we visited we found that when an applicant applies for church membership the following cjuestions were asked : first, " Do you believe yourself to be a Christian?" "What are the grounds of your hope?" "If admitted, what can you do for the Church ? " " Do you pro- mise to attend church faithfully and support the cause of the (lospel as you are able?" Then questions of this nature are put : " Are you willing to work in the Sunday School ? or would you prefer to have a district and engage in visitation ? or what can you suggest are you willing to do ?" " For sixteen years," said one of the ministers at a large convention, " I have faith- fully put these (juestions to all young people joining my church, and I have not an idle member." Happy minister ! A strong recommendation in favour of this excellent method is that it is scriptural. The Great Master has said " To e'ery man his work." In all the churches where I worshipped I noticed that no p'^oner had the minister pronounced the benediction tlian the people were shaking hands and speaking with one another, the minister himself hastening to speak with the organist or some member of the choir, or with some of the audience in the passage. I suppose this may be found necessary, though we confess we much prefer the " Scottish ideal " of being alone for a short time after the service. But nothing struck me so much in America as the new and ever-expanding spirit which is being shed forth in larger spiritual life upon the churches in deepening their brotherly regard, in augmenting their holy zeal, and in widening the range of that deep seated affection which is the bond of all true brotherhood, and the blessing, the power, and the joy of all Christian labour. Thus it will be seen that in America the Christian religion is evangelical, broad in its life, and " progressive;" and as an able spiritual thinker remarks, " vaster in its outlook, and more THE CHURCHES OF AMERICA. 303 triumphant in its march, than either we or our fathers had be- lieved." \Ve heartily wish the churches of America every blessing, all success, and great prosperity in their common work in moulding and shaping the life of the nation for the "mil- lennium of God." CHAPTER XXIX. HOME-LIFE IN AMERICA. ''T^HE two mightiest forces working in the nations of the world, determining the future of the human race, are man's faith and man's horae-Hfe. In its true and constructive ideal home- life may be affirmed supreme. " It is essentially the greatest power," says Professor Leighton, " in the programme of a people for their general good, and under its various aspects a theme large enough to engage our attention to the end of time." It is a great pity that, with all our books on America, little or nothing has been said of home-life in that country. There is room, we beg to suggest, for a book on this all-important theme, and in the hands of a competent writer such a work would render valuable service to the community, and would meet with m.any keenly-interested readers. After his last visit to the Old Country, on his return home the late Rev. H. W. Beecher said, in addressing a meeting of his friends, that nothing struck him more when travelling in Eng- land than the ignorance which prevailed, even among the intelli- gent community, with regard to home-life of x^merica ; and he added that ''absolutely not one out of twenty in Europe know anything about us." When my friend, Mr. G. Scott of Brooklyn, communicated this, he asked me " Can it be ? " What do you say for the "ignorance" of the mother-country? He then added, by way of joke, " We must send over to the dear old mother a pair of spectacles, with which she may look across the Atlantic and see us in our happy homes." As to the " ignorance " referred to it may be accounted for in this way : travellers or writers on America are ever telling us HOME-LIFE IN AMERICA. 30$ that our cousins there "live in hotels and boarding-houses." But when they tell us this they do not mean that there is no home-life in the country. It is true that many in the New World live in hotels and boarding-houses, but it is also true that many live in their own private homes, and that, whether viewed from the exterior or the interior, these homes surpass in beauty, accommodation, and comfort, the homes of other lands. With reference to the Old Country, there is no comparison. For one thing, we have not the " ground accommodation," except under certain conditions, nor have we the money and the abundant wealth which the Americans have, nor the culture and taste except in rare instances. Our working classes are, as compared with the working classes of America, sadly handicapped in the race of life, and sadly kept behind in their struggle for existence. As things are, how can they rise ? How can they have culture and taste ? How can they be pure and good when families live in one room, as thousands and tens of thousands do in our large cities ? But — The wise among them leave this land, Why say " how oild, romantic ! ' They go to find a belter home Across the wild Atlantic. As to America I agree with those who tell us that it has its dark side. The large cities have their " sins and sorrows " in the extreme. Mr. G. Douglas of New York and I visited a num- ber of those wretched homes in a low district of that city. As the result of our visits, it would be easy to write and paint a graphic picture on misery, degradation, rags, shame, and disorder, but such writing, in our estimation, never does much good, since it draws the mind invariably to the source whence it came. The bright side of things in society is a thousand times more pleasant, and true of home-life across the Atlantic than is the dark side. Mrs. Stowe, who is an authority on this matter, tells that " domestic life in the States of America is not dark as some 3o6 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. would paint it, but fair, bright, and healthy, with comfort added or diminished as the home is attended to or neglected." If we particularise, the house is beautiful and commodious, the rooms are handsomely furnished, each room according to its distinctive character. Generally a fine green, mossy-coloured carpet covers the floor, with paper on the walls to match. The furniture, which is largely of oak, walnut, and pine, is of a lighter make than with us. The decorations are done in the larger dwellings in such a manner that the harmony of taste and colour is like soft music. The Americans are peculiarly fond of carv- ing, and we must honour them by saying that it is cleverly, gracefully, and delicately done, as becomes a skilful, smart, and ingenious people. The walls of the rooms of rich and poor are hung with choice ornaments, pictures, and paintings ; and here and there in a room may be seen tasteful designs, illumi- nated texts, and mottoes of rare beauty. In the windows the flowers are profuse — sweet-scented, bloming flowers of a variety of colours, fine roses, pansies, fuchsias, ferns, and geraniums of the most lovely hue. Then every working man has his own garden beautifully laid out and beautifully kept. Every garden which we saw, and we saw many, charmed us as a rare bit of art, skill, and taste, designed to advance and promote the useful and the beautiful^ and to contribute to the annihilation of the useless and the i4gly. Turning to the interior of the home, the bedrooms are perfect in their own way. They are as costly, beautiful, and elegant, in their furniture as any other room of the house. Dark covers on the beds are seldom seen. We only remember three or four in all our travels, and they were of crimson colour. The bed is usually all gracefully white. The dressing-room is *' fragrant with scents and soaps," as a friend newly home from the States remarks, "and prodigal with mirrors, brushes, and various toilet commodities." Clearly the Ameri- cans as a people go in for a house as commodious as possible and for all home comforts. Nor is this a mere dream picture. There is nothing, indeed, that one could suggest in the way of HOME-LIFE IN AMERICA. 307 home comfort, accommodation, and convenience, but they already have. Even the working classes have their "select library " in their best room, where, if the husband be inclined, he may retire from the common room and enjoy the refreshing inspiration of a good book. And further, as affording solid enjoyment, music is an enter- tainment of the home very common in the States. Like the Germans, the Americans are fond of singing and all kinds of instrumental music. An institution called the " home-concert " exists in America, and is becoming more and more a part of the country's home-life. In Washington, Brooklyn, and Worcester, we were present at several of these entertainments, and were very mucli delighted with them. The piano or cabinet organ, the violin and harp accompany the singing; and it may be men- tioned here that, both in private and public, sacred music in America has the place of honour ; it is more widely popular than secular music. Dr. Tritton, a musical authority, a gentleman who claims to know the musical taste of the country, emphasises this fact, and our experience is at one with him. At the close of one of these concerts I remarked to a young gentleman, — the principal performer of the evening — "How beautifully you sing and play. We have enjoyed a musical treat." " You do us more than honour. Sir," he said, " in thus applaud- ing our poor efforts ; but allow me the remark, that, as a people I guess, you will find us in America to be musically inclined." " But perhaps," intei posed a courteous, smiling, clever, though eccentric Americanised little man, "Our Scotch friend may agree with Carlyle, who wrote that the x\mericans are ' the greatest bores on the face of the earth.'" "No, certainly not," I replied ; " You are aware, great man though he was, that in dealings with problems or people, Carlyle did not always speak within the limits of a mathematical precision." " I guess that is so," said an elderly gentleman. " He was a smart, highly-gifted man, Carlyle ; his writings are full of intellect, but his nature was too hard, too dogmatic, and too sensitive, and consequently 3o8 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. we in America think be was less useful ' to the world than many of his inferiors.' " The Americans are a kindly, generous, hospitable peo[)le. This is a striking feature of their character — a feature, we must not neglect to say, that is above and beyond all praise. They are perhaps the most genial, agreeable, warm-hearted type of people in the world when fairly treated. Certainly none is readier to welcome a stranger and to admit him to all the com- forts and hospitalities of their home than are the Americans. They have the happy knack of pleasing strangers and of draw- ing and attracting them, one reason being that they are naturally brotherly, unaffectedly social in their manners, and altogether unrestrained by any " considerations of propriety " and custom. Another reason is — if we may be allowed to bay so without offence — they are never over-much in earnest. Sometimes "earnestness" is misdirec*ed, and becomes rudeness, or anything but a virtuous quantity. Other faults might be brought against our fair cousins, but at any rate never that one. They can hit hard in argument, be firm and stern if need be ; but they are always kindly true, and in a high degree natural, social and courteous. Their home-life has, as it should have, much free- dom and goodness in it — much attraction from every side, and much of the virtue of that which is agreeable, pure, and loving. To verify the first of these statements we may mention that the servants, as may be arranged, sit at the dinner table with the master, mistress, and family, a custom very general in some of the States, though unknown or unheard of in European lands. The idea of restriction on " class-prejudices " hardly exists. The master, mistress, and servants are in their home-relationship face to face upon the common level of humanity. We in this country are widely separated as classes, and hidden from one another. In America it is not so. Nevertheless, and under all conditions, even there " fashionable society " directs itself and wears a high aristocratic bearing conspicuously apparent. But if we pass from " class prejudice " to discriminate on mat- HO ME LIFE IN AMERICA. 309 ters of custom, manners, and taste — if we speak of the ** short- comings," or better, the habits of our American cousins, there is this primal fact which is found in their home-Hfe, as in every phase of American life, a certain undefinable restlessness of mind and heart, true in them, no doubt, but a trifle too much for our liking — a feverish feeling, which, let us say, without any social or moral dissecting process, applies to every Yankee as perforce of habit, a custom which is inbred, replenished, and tnjoyed as a faculty of the nation's life. This restlessness of heart, of thought, and movement, which, let us remember, is perfectly natural in the States, and of the very soul and blood-relationship of the New World, means, as interpreted by the "old-fashioned'' customs of this country, a want of that quiet calmness, " dig- nity," which we deem essential to the manners of the " perfect gentleman." If this be held a fault in good society in the Old Country, our American cousins are not ashamed of it : " Rather are they anxious," says Mr. Howell, " that it should be known as part of their inherited life and position." Their manners and customs for " the perfect gentleman " differ from ours in this country. To understand their rules of etiquette we must know the people themselves, and look at things through their eyes, not through our own. This explains the difference. In our country society goes by the established and justified custom of an introduction as between man and man. Anything else jars with our feelings and is hardly considered proper. " What nonsense ! " an Ameri- can would say to you, and then ask, " Why should a man wait to speak to another until he is introduced?" If you answer " It is the custom of the country and the way of society," he would say, •' I guess this is carrying things too far, as in the case of the gentleman who saw another drowning, but v.ho could not at- tempt to rescue him because he had not been introduced." In purely domestic matters, more affecting ladies, it has been said, " They are not good managers in America, but they arc extravagant in household affairs, and in every direction." Mr. 3IO AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. Mill, in comparing them with the ladies of the Old Country, and whose experience across the Atlantic entitles him to be listened to with respect, affirms that "this is their great fault." We must not here pause to enter on their defence, nor is it required; suffice it to say that the ladies of America, generally speaking, " have more in their hands," " more to come and go on," in managing their household affairs. This, considered a'ong with the life of the country and the enjoyments of society, the ladies in the States are, it may be said, very much as ladies in other lands, some good in the management of their homes and some bad. But, in case we send into the air a perfect ring of smoke, let us not meddle with things which we do not understand. This much we may state, that according to Dr. Leep and Mrs. Stowe, " the charge of extravagance brought against the wives in America is the outcome of prejudice rather than truth." The cooking, let us remark, is a subject which fitly claims a word. Fortunately in these days of advanced education, even a girl at school knows a good deal about it. In America the negroes are largely engaged in this industry. They make, it is allowed, capital cooks. In mostly all the hotels, boarding-houses, and large private establishments one always finds a " darkie " the chief cook. He is up in the art of cooking ; he understands the business thoroughly, as if he were an ancient Greek ; he, in- deed, can cook a dinner to perfection, and is as interested in it as if in solemn earnest he were preparing for the ancient gods. In relation to the poor man's home a remark is here called for. We all admit and we all know on the side of comfort what tidiness and cleanliness mean in a home. " If we surround our- selves with dirty things," says George Dawson, " we by and by become dirty." In America no untidy-looking, ill-favoured sights ever meet your eyes. In this country with the same class these sights can hardly be avoided, simply for the want of proper kitchen or scullery accommodation. Let a stranger visit the poorest home in America at any hour of the day — if it deserves the name of a home — and he will never see kitchen utensils no ME- LIFE IN AMERICA. 311 lying about in disorder, dishes unwashed, tubs, pots, and pans among your feet — never ; and the reason is as hinted — an "off room " from the kitchen is provided in which all the rough work of the house is done ; and in this way the poor man's kitchen fireside, as the rich man's, is always tidy, clean and comfortable. In considering the important relations of home-life in America, the marriage union is rightly held all over the States as the most perfect form of its constitution. True, there may be many a bachelor's home, and many a spinster's home, and all of them may be bright, attractive, pure, and good; but it is not with such home-life surrounded by its purity, charity, and love, that we have here principally to do. In America, marriages are the oc- casion of great display. At the time of our visit to Chicago, I recollect a Miss Burton, a young lady of fashionable life being married ; according to reports some two thousand invitations were sent out for the occasion. It is the custom in the States and at all marriages, that the officiating clergyman receives a fee which varies in amount as parties can afford to pay. It has been said that in America the marriage-tie is not held as very sacred, close, and binding. This may be true among a certain class, but generally speaking, marriage in America is re- cognised and held as a divine institution, the true expression or mirror of the country in relation to things spiritual, pure, and lovely. "Why then," asks Mrs. Hensley, "do the husbands so readily and so easily divorce their wives ? " The legal profession might here answer by saying, " Our cases of divorce, considering the size of our country, are not more numerous than in other countries." "America," says Dr. Abbott, "holds the sacredness of marriage and the purity of a home with one husband and one wife." How could it be otherwise ? America is, in truth, a Christian nation, surrounded with churches and Christian insti tutions, all inspiring the people with a high sense of that which is sacred, spotless, and pure. Of course the reader will recognise that life in the New World differs from ours in its adaptations to the relationship of the 312 A ME PIC A AND THE AMERICANS. country and the character of the people. It is in a social sense freer than ours, more radiant and attractive. All life in the States is different from ours ; it is more essentially intense, more significantly rapid and advanced. In the management of domestic affairs there is difficulty in getting good servants. However close and friendly the relationship between the classes may be, this difficulty has always existed. Servants' wages are high ; there they are as independent as you please ; they don't as a rule answer the door-bell ; they don't brush boots ; they have their own rooms in which to receive their visitors ; if the mistress quarrel, or find fault with them, they very soon throw up their situation, and are always sure of another in a day or so. The washing is an industry that is hardly ever seen to in the house, either by domestics or by a washerwoman. Every town has its laundries, and there, and not in the home, the washing, the starching, the ironing is done. This, while a relief to the servants, is also a comfort to the home over the greater portion of the community. But in estimating the constitution and conditions of the home in relation to life, to society, and to labour, it should be known that the Americans make more of their life than we do ; that is, they do more work in America than in this country. They rise earlier ; they begin work earlier ; they require two hours less sleep ; they work harder than men are able to do here. Recall- ing the words of Mr. Blane, of Chicago, in referring to this, he said, " I guess one man with us, in any business or profession, will do as much work in ten years as one with you will do in thirty." How is this? Well, for one thing, the atmosphere of America is much lighter than ours, the sky clearer than here, and there is no oppression in the air, no feeling of weariness and ex- haustion as in our country, consequently men — both professional men and labouring men — are able to do more work. And let us add, that every man who is not an idler or the victim of strong drink will do better in the New World than in the Old. For in the New World there is no restraint or restriction on HOME-r.IFE TN AMERICA. 313 labour ; no attempt to " hem in " the working man, or to restrict the product of his hands. Then, he is better paid, and there- fore he is able to have a better home, more commodious, better furnished. He is aMe also to have a " better table," better fare ; he is able to dress his wife and children better, and he himself has a much lighter heart, and is not the slave and drudge that he would be in the Old World. A gentleman in England at the head of a large establishment for young ladies, and interested in domestic economy, has written me asking — " Did you find in your travels that it is a custom in America, in well-to-do families, to take wine at dinner, and to have it on the table daily ? " I am glad that this ques- tion has been asked, otherwise I might have passed it over. Well, my experience is this, and I replied to the gentleman re- ferred to in almost the same words ; — In America a very strong abstinence principle prevails among all classes of the community. That being so, the feeling of the country goes against the custom of wine at "the dinner-table." Perhaps not one family in twenty use wine at all, " and consequently," as our friend Dr. Williams remarks, " the physician and his drugs will be less in requisition there than here." In not a few families, however, where we had the pleasure of dining, we found that it was the custom for the gentlemen immediately after dinner to retire to another room, and there they had wine or coffee, or " something stronger," ac- cording to their taste and wishes. But I am asked, " What about the administration of family life out in America?" "Do parents discharge their duties to their children wisely and well?" It may depend on what is meant by " wisely and well." Love lies at the root of the home- life, and should be the ruling principle in all family administra- tion. In America, family life has much elasticity in it, much freedom in it, combined with much pleasant jubilation, joy, and brightness. But the freedom referred to does not mean, in a well-ordered home, that the children a'-e without discipline and brought up to have their own way and to act as they like. 314 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. Assuredly not ; for that would be " the freedom of a license " unworthy of any home, and would be in after years to the children's sorrow and loss. In America, as elsewhere, the best parents are not without their faults ; but certainly they en- deavour, while giving much liberty to the young, to implant in their minds the sentiments of dutiful affection, sobriety, and religion, and those other qualities which are happy, bright, and " of good report " in society. In a large number of the homes where in our travels we visited, family worship was regularly conducted, if not always in the morning, certainly always in the evening, and at an early hour in the evening before the younger members of the family retired to rest. As to the Sabbath in America, and how it affects the Christian home, it is made in the higher sense, not a day of gloom, or fear, or over-restriction for the children, but a day of joy, freedom, and spiritual illumination, — a day which imparts and unfolds to the heart of the little ones that new and gladsome power that Christ brought to the world, which is everywhere the joy and salvation of the home-life. For long in the Christian homes of New England it was the custom, as in the Old World, to gather the family together on the Sabbath evening, that the parents might instruct the children in the doctrines of the faith of Christianity as then held. Every child, at a certain age, had to repeat the Catechism without failure, and as he grew up he had to answer in strict examination all the doctrines believed, and be able to teach and explain them to others. But in our day Christian parents in America lay less stress on doctrinal teaching. Why ? Because they look now on the presence and powder of a " highly-developed Christian love " as of more spiritual value than " dogmas and doctrine." Not that sound doctrine and wholesome is despised in the States, as some would have us believe, but on the practical side the Americans hold religion to be a life — a life the largest, the noblest, the divinest that can mould and penetrate the soul of man : and because they hold religion to be a life in communion HOME-LIFE W AMEHICA. 315 with the Eternal Spirit, they argue that not mere doctrine but the inspiration of the living soul alone can reveal it. That being so, rightly viewed, out of that idea have come the deeper thoughts and the broader thinking which so inspire and minister to the breath of the great spiritual world to-day. *' In a Christian home," says Dr. Hall of New York, " there is nothing more to be feared and guarded against than the mere form of religion." Then he adds, "and this we say with a strong sense of the great good which our Christian nation has received from forms and methods of religious appliance." The Spirit alone satisfies the human heart and answers alone in the human soul to that type of religion in the domestic circle which makes the home-life attractive, bright, and happy in relation to the higher form of a •* highly-developed, Christian love." With- out this Christian love and its influences playing around the hearts and homes of the great American nation, all other loves, joys, and comforts, even if they abound, would not secure domestic peace and happiness. How many a home, beautiful to the eye, finely and elegantly furnished, is rendered distressingly bitter in the training of children, — a place of discord, strife, and temper, tor the want of such gentle, tender, true love I I have only to add on this subject that, with those philosophers who engage by their theories of philosophy to reconstruct and guide society in " the rule and culture of the home," I have little or no sympathy. Pliilosophy in this aspect, as a theory for the world's woe, sickness, and need, is not new. It has been tried from age to age as " the gospel of hope " for humanity, but in some unseen way the aim and desires of the world " syste- matically elude its grasp." Alas I we say emphatically, for man's fondest dreams, and for all his noble views ! But America finds ihe inspiring principle in Christian love : and since *' the gospel of hope " which America receives consists not in " doctrines and dogmas " believed, nor in the luminous philosophic theories of ihe age so much, as in the inspiration of the living soul in com- munion with a Higher Will, we may be sure, — and the reader 3l6 AMERICA AXD THE AMERICANS. will agree with me that in this higher faith, stretching beyond the human mind, we see the home-life of a Christian community, (juickcning the conscience, touching the child's life at the very spring of its existence, and in this way becoming the holiest and noblest institution on earth, the mightiest force and factor of the great human world. CHAPTER XXX. AMERICA A VAST COUNTRY— REPUBLICANISM VERSUS MONARCHY— IV/r AND HUMOUR — INTERNATIONAL KELA TIONS. \ 1 /"E have now come almost to a conclusion, having traversed the wide field which was proposed to us when we con- sented to undertake this work. At the beginning then of this, our concluding chapter, rather than at the end of it, we may be allowed to state to the reader, and especially to friends across the Atlantic that, keeping in view the plan and size of this volume, we have had to pass over a number of places associated with our travels, and otherwise to abridge and curtail, here and there, throughout the narrative. But, after all, since brevity is the order of the times in which we live, modification may be here wiser than amplification. Nothing has been wholly omitted considered essential to a fair presentation of these travels, and nothing has been injuriously curtailed. Let us believe then that enough has been written in this work, and written, as we can truthfully affirm, without partiality, in all honesty of purpose, giving the thoughts and ideas suggested to our mind, during our sojourn in that great and supremely-vast country, America. Should the reader who has followed us through these chapters think that our impressions and observations on America differ somewhat from other writers, we reply, " Quite so " : this much was stated at the commencement of the book, and this much, we may be allowed to say, comes as part of our reward, and as a recommendation to the value and fairness of the work. Every traveller to a new country has his own way of viewing things and his own way of travelling. " If we travel," says Mr. Compton, •' wnen the shadows of night have fallen upon the ground, when 3i8 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. the features of the country are veiled from our inspection, we can discern but little. But if we travel in the light of day, when the sun shines and casts his lustre over the earth, then the features and beauties of the country appear ; and these beauties, if they excite our admiration at the time, remain with us through all the years of life." Before crossing the Atlantic, we had no conception what a vast country America really is. The idea of its vastness no one but a traveller there can understand, consequently lessons of humility are among the first impressed on the mind in visiting that country. " One learns in going to America," says a writer, " that the world is a little larger than it appears at home." Then, society there, and the varied affairs of life as subjects of thought, are so diversified as to surpass the compass of the mind. As a territory America is immensely large ; then its growth and civilisa- tion are so far-reaching, its trade and commerce so vast and extensive, its climate and productions so healthy and varied, its cities and rivers so large, and its social and material progress of all kmds so rapid and successful ihat, practically speaking, America is a world in itself — a world of interest, of study, and of admiration — the greatest, the most advanced, and most hopeful nation on the face of the globe, with prospects brighter and better than any other. A significant question bearing on this was lately put to us by a young man at the close of a lecture to a literary society in Aberdeen. " But when America gets filled with people, and all her advantages used up, what then ? " Yes, indeed, what then ? But very many years must elapse before that question need be asked, or before any such thought need deter our young men from crossing the Atlantic to push their fortune in the New World. The States of America, it has been computed, are so vast and so rich as to support a population, with comfort, of 300,000,000 of people. They cannot, therefore, be filled up and be without attraction and prospect for many ages to come. But America is not only rich and vast as a territory, and AMERICA A VAST COUNTRY. 319 superior and more wonderful in her productions to any nation under the sun, but turning our thoughts to the future of that country, and to no distant time, America has in other directions influences at work, destinies c^uite her own, and high and pecu- liar — destinies that will reflect grandeur and blessing on *' the coming age," when the world at large shall have been touched as by an unseen power, and lifted into that region of a freedom and joy supremely beautiful, and a peace perfect and universal. For what are the facts ? America is a region of fertility of soil and intelligence of population. The land is fair and fruitful, the people are loyal and cultured. The common schools of America, unrivalled in their system of education, have an immense influence in raising the people, and in binding them together as in a social paradise, blessing them as no other nation has been blessed before. Another very powerful influence in America is this : the rich and poor stand together side by side in social equality and personal advantage. There is no feeling of littleness there, nor of comparing one man with another, nor of social restraint or class prejudice in any way. This is indeed one of the great wonders of the New "World, and in this may be found a prophecy as to what America, in the development of human life and resources, will one day become. But standing thus high in her superiority of advantages over us in the Old Country, she yet does not stand apart from us ; rather does she honour us by inviting our people across to her rich and fertile lands to share her privileges, to be nurtured and fed, and to gather wealth on her unexhausted and inexhaustible soil. The thousands and tens of thousands who have crossed the Atlantic have been provided for with a liberal hand ; and still the invitation to our people from many voices in the New World is—" Come and live under our sunny skies, on our green earth, amidst woods and waters, if you are willing to cultivate the soil, and you will not remain poor but will soon find the promise of plenty a realised fact." Should any say "We seek for advice," Americ - herself can best give it. Her vast territories 320 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. are not half occupied. Millions of acres are waiting for cultiva- tion, and these acres not forest-land but prairie-land, which only want a hopeful heart, a pair of willing hands, and a plough, to yield a rich reward. But let us not send out to America our lazy clerks, our useless shopkeepers, and our worn-out paupers. America will not yield her advantages to such, nor does she wish to make their acquaintance at all. But to men who can work, to the hardy sons of toil, to all who are willing "to rough it" a few years, she gives a very hearty welcome. Messrs. Ellis &: Todd, who went from the Old Country to Oxford County, Canada, some years ago — both most reliable men, let me remark — write to us to say : " We often wonder that so few farm-servants, and farmers with a small capital, come out to Canada. Hard working, steady men always succeed here, and in a few years make a fortune. We have a splendid country, a healthy climate, fine, rich land, and plenty of it. Then we have all other advantages — good society, good churches, good schools, and every facility to make the country attractive and prosperous." With regard to America as a nation, the " pros " and " cons " of Republicanism versus Monarchy are often discussed by repre- sentative men, as if to show how wide apart the two Govern- ments are. In our opinion they are much closer, and in a great degree nearer in their practical working than is usually supposed. In America theirs is under different names an elective limited monarchy, and ours a hereditary limited monarchy. \\ hatever is good in our system has its counterpart there. Our practical politics incUne us to them and theirs to us. " But there is this drawback with monarchy," said a well-informed Yankee to me ; " the want of national liberty and individual equality as between man and man." Then he very gravely added, " and the cost, as you well know, of the Queen and the Royal Family." The cost of the Queen and the Royal Family is the hobby-horse, if we may so speak, of America and of all Republicans. But they forget, or they do not know, that the revenue from lands — the private REPUBLICANISM V, MONARCHY. 321 property of the crown — nearly meets the cost which they com- plain of. We assured our friend on that point, and in terms of courtesy and respect, for he was a man well-read in these matters, and much our senior ; yet, notwithstanding all that we said, he shook his head, and remained, we believe, firm in his own conviction that monarchy was a great expense to a nation. But we are persuaded that a comparison of the expense of Republicanism in America, with its paid presidents, senators, clerks, and officials, would be in fiivour of Britain. Then, as to the working of the American system, even though the States of the Union stand firmly together, there are difficul- ties in that country grave and serious. For example, a change of President every four years is in itself a serious matter ; but it is more serious when we think of the many thousand changes that accompany this event. These changes are the occasion of fierce discussion, political strife, exasperation, turmoil, and con- fusion, beyond what we in the Old Country can have any idea of; and, if we did not regard this much, as bearing on the Republicanism of America, we should be found unfaithful as a witness to what we saw of the political affairs of that country. But when the turmoil of an election ceases, the whole Union has immediate peace, and a surer light shines out to guide its way. Happily in Britain there has been no change in the Crown for the last fifty years. Her Majesty, our noble Queen, has reigned long, and long may she reign on that triumphant throne which has spread light and freedom, peace and joy, throughout the whole earth ! With heart and voice, in all loyalty, honour, and attachment, we all repeat "God save the Queen." After having travelled many thousand miles through Canada and the States, I found myself the second time in Montreal. Several families there made my stay alike pleasant and instruc- tive. Messrs. Murphy, Scott, and M'Gill showed me all the points of interest in this busy and finely-situated city ; they also took me to some of the outlying districts of Lower Canada, which we had thus the pleasure of seeing in the winter season, 21 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. " all robed and nursed in snowy white." But we must forbear giving any details here of this second visit to Montreal, except to relate an incident as requested by a Canadian friend. It is this — Half a century ago or less, when English wit and humour was a subject sought after and cultivated by a class as the grand object of life, it was believed that Scotchmen were so prosaic and so unromantic as to be without any sense of wit or gift of humour ; and that, indeed, they could hardly understand a joke or enjoy a laugh, at least as compared with Englishmen. Well, what we allude to, as requested by our Canadian friend, is this : One evening, in the house of Mr. John M'Gill, Montreal, a friendly gathering was held in honour of the writer before start- ing for the Old Country. At that friendly gathering, among others, a gentleman was present who introduced this subject of wit and humour for conversation, and with special reference to England and Scotland. He stated that the subject had been discussed in this form only a few weeks before by a Young Men's Literary Club at Pittsburg, and at the close of the debate — a debate, he affirmed, conducted and taken part in wholly by Americans, real and true — old Scotland scored twenty to ten over England as possessing the higher and deeper faculty of genuine wit and humour. " Good for old Scotland i " it was remarked ; " and good for America, too ! " let us say, for does not this verdict of the Pittsburg Club somewhat reverse the opinions so long entertained of our prosaic Scotchmen, and turn the tables on our English neighbours? As to how this change has been wrought in old Scotland we need not here enquire. But what says the English reader to the verdict of the Pittsburg Club ? Possibly he may assign it to sheer ignorance or to an American farce, or he may put the incident down to a piece of Yankee diplomacy given expression to in the presence of a Scotchman. Well, remembering that " one man's opinion is not as good as another " on many things, we shall not quarrel over the point, nor shall we contend for the verdict referred to. But being the only Scotchman in the company, our friend Mr. M'Gill called INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS. 323 upon us to make some remarks by way of giving our opinion. We had pleasure in acceding to his request, though all that we need here say as to the drift of our remarks is that, however pleased we were with the compliment of the Pittsburg Club in favour of Scotland, we did not claim to give an opinion or com- promise in the very least the honour that had been assigned to England so long in this matter of wit and humour. The problem of " annexation " has long engaged the minds of politicians, public men, and the columns of the daily press. Is Canada to be annexed to the United States ? is the question which many in America have chiefly at heart. We found in our travels that the Canadians are content to remain as they are ; they have no wish for annexation with the United States. Indeed, they are opposed to it; they say "leave annexation alone, for we are not yet quite prepared to hand over our Dominion as a present to the States." " No, perish the thought ! '' said a patriotic Canadian to me, " we are not going to do that." Canada is a great country. Its population is small, not much larger than Scotland ; but its territory is immense ; it is far larger than the entire United States ; it has had a history, and it will, we believe, have a future of its own. But it was understood that the Canadian Government, as recently as the occasion of the Fisheries Conference, presented to che Government at Washington, or wished to have introduced, a form of reciprocity with the United States, as the basis of a commercial union, though without success. What does this commercial union mean ? What would be its advantages ? An interchange of traffic it is said ; then what would be the result ? It must be admitted that commercial union involves political union as a necessary consequence ; and this, again, involves to reasonable foresight many questions grave and deep, and to what such a union might lead to. The risk here is, in case any after-arrangements were gone into that might essentially break all connection between Canada and the mother-country in a complete amalgamation to the United States. Many regard 324 AMERICA AND THE AMERICANS. this as the ultimate destiny of Canada ; but it is right to add that the Canadians themselves protest against it as an idle as- sumption. Any way the Canad ins have a splendid country, stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and a maritime power of vast importance uniting them with all countries and kingdoms of the world. It is the strong conviction of many that if a system of free reciprocity wcte devised between Canada and the mother-country — a system that would share in a new chapter of English history and give mutual and substantial benefit — the two countries would become supreme in one : the mother-country would be greatly helped, and C« ada would ^ave a career of prosperity hitherto unknown. Our task is now finished. In a concluding word, we are happy to state that there exists a close and intimate friendship between America and Great Britain. The bond which holds us together is the feeling that we are but one nation under two Governments. Born of the same race, we speak the same lan- guage ; we are inspired by the same spirit ; we live under the same Christian laws ; we are animated by the same interests, and pursuing the same career of commerce, peace, and freedom ; we exist, we may say, in every way as one nation and people. Any rupture occurring between us and America would be a serious calamity. But let us hope that no bitterness, strife, or ill-feeling, will ever arise. The Alabama Question was the occasion of a temporary misunderstanding, but the public sentiment of America has long since undergone a complete change, and that question is now entirely forgotten. Nor did I ever hear, in all my travels in the United States, a hostile word or whisper breathed in relation to the Old Country. Nay, we felt quite at home, and were every- where most cordially and kindlv received. This we record as our exper-ence, with gratitude, l > illustrate the hearty good-will between the two nations ; and this is no exceptional experience; it is common to every traveller who goes to the New World, not as a factious, crazy critic, to depreciate and despise the people, VOYAGE HOME. 325 but as a friend, real and true, and interested in them, and in their country and affairs. This they expect ; and while they are ciuick and astute to deal with a critic, they are most agreeable, pleasant, and courteous to a friend ; and to one from the mother-country they entertain the feelings of a very warm affection and sincere regard. And so ends the record of our impressions and observations on America and the Americans. We only add, that our home- ward voyage was in December, and, according to our good captain, it was " a fine passage throughout." THE END.