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NOTES
ON THE
UNITED STATES
OF
AMERICA.
PHILADELPHIA.
rKINTES AT THX OTFICE OF THE VMITSD STATES
6AZETTC.
1806.
ip
\ \
1 i
Monday morning f nth Nov* 1806.
My dear Sir,
IN answer to your inquiries resp-^cting
the United States of America, I send ou the
enclosed notes which you may communicate to
any of your friends who may be prompted by
curiosity or interest to seek information on the
subjects to which you referred. You will,
however, take notice, that I do not aspire at
the character of an author, and therefore the
hints now sent are not to be published.
I am,
With esteem and respect.
Your obedient servant.
I
IH
i
1
NOTES, esfc.
:■!
1
BETWEEN the high colouring of exag-
geration and the dark shade of detraction, it
may be difficult to discern the truth in what re-
lates to America. Not only the manners, which
travellers estimate, as usual, by comparison with
their own, have been exalted by some to the
innocenc of paradise and degraded by others
to the corruptions of a brothel ; but things
which admit of more easy and accurate esti-
mation, even the soil and climate, have been
represented as variously as the temper, genius,
and manners of the people.
NOTES OM THE
** I am sorry, Sir, you kept such bad com-
pany in Spain," said a gentleman in Paris to
one who indulged himself in the ridicule of
Spanish customs. This flippant reply might
be made to certain descriptions of American
society, which border on caricature. But
instead of resorting to repartee, which would
here be misplaced, it seems proper to remark,
that when strangers undertake to delineate the
character of a nation from what they meet with
in trading towns, great part of whose inhabi-
tants are (like themselves) strangers, the por-
trait, however excellent in colour and expres-
sion, will liardly possess the merit of a good
likeness. These painters should consider that
a miin who has a proper regard for his own
character would be restrained from such great
incongruity, if not by candour, at Least by
common sense. They should consider too
tlmt customs aiid manners must be taken toge-
tlier by him who would estimate them justly ;
because the best, when viewed in detail, may
be made a subject of blame or ridicule. Fi-
lyitlTED STATRS,
mlly they should know that long residcr.cc and
an intimate acquaintance with the best company
are pre-requisites to forming a just opinion and
delineating a faithful resemblanofe. It is easy
to conceive that one bred in the politer circle*
of London might not be pleased with the man-
ners of Amsterdam, Hamburgh, or Philadel-
phia. The inhabitants of those towns have
the humility to believe they want that high
polish which courts alone can give. But what
shall be said of youngsters just fledged and yet
warm from the nest of Cambridge or Oxford^
who discover in the best company of Berlin or
Vienna a fund of contemptuous merriment f
Who consider the gentlemen of Germany as
bears, and those of France as monkiesi
When the count de Laraguais was asked, on
his return from England, his opinion of its
produce and inhabitants, he exclaimed, " Ah
" c'est le pais le plus drole qu' on puisse imagi-
ner. lis ont vingt religions, mais ils n'ont qu*
une sauce. Toutes les liqueurs sont aigres
" hormis k vinaigre. lis n»ont de fruit m^
«
it
8
NOTES ON THE
"/
" que les pommes cuitcs, et de poli que
" I'acier.'* "^Tis the strangest place you can
conceive. They have twenty religions and but
one sauce. All their liquors are sour except the
vinegar. They have no ripe fruit but baked
apples^ and nothing polished but steel.
It would be well that this speech were
printed on the title page of some books of
travels in America which Englishmen have
published, and in which (with no evil intention
perhaps, but merely to display their genius and
national superiority) they have degraded Ame-
ricans below the most vile and vicious in Eu-
rope. That we, like others, have too good an
opinion of ourselves may be true ; but foreign-
ers who on this ground charge us with ridicu-
lous vanity should recollect the decision on a
memorable occasion. ** Let him who is guilt-
** less cast the first stone.'* It may also be
true that we have in the north the vices attached
to commerce, and in the south those which
result from domestick slavery ; but we have
I
UNITED STATES.
the virtues which arise out cf those conditions.
He who travels through this extensive country,
picking up rare incidents to pourtray manners
in which the meanness of a Dutch huckster
shall be combined with the profligacy of a
Polish lord, may gratulate himself on the col-
lection of materials for a biting satire. But
should he put them together and publish the
patchwork, it would perish before his eyes
by the mortal disease of self contradiction.
The American who claims for his country a
proud exemption from the ills attached to
humanity is less to be applauded for his zeal
than pitied for his folly. Truth, however, will
warrant the assertion, that our vices are not so
great as might be expected from our condition.
The Virginian is not cruel : the Yankee is not
dishonest : the spirit of commerce has not de-
stroyed the charities of life, and taken in the
aggregate there is as fair a proportion of genius,
virtue, and politeness in America as in Europe.
Particular comparisons would be invidious.
There is, however, one general trait which must
B
1
10
NOTES ON THE
.!*
strike the most cursory observer. The stran-
ger of every country is 'received here with
frankness and cordiality. He cannot, indeed,
enjoy the venal respect of an inn, but may on
the contrary be offended by a surly manner,
amounting, sometimes, to downright rudeness :
for American tavern keepers too often take
occasion to display their pride (which they
falsely consider as a mark of freedom) to guests-
whom they are bound by duty as well as interest
to serve and to please. No man of sound
mind will defend or attempt to excuse this-
conduct which is equally ridiculous and bru-
tal ; but it may be accounted for by a simple
fact. In the early settlement of a country, few
are wealtliy enough to keep an inn. Those -
few being of what the French would call les
«or^^/« are persons of higher standing in so-
ciety than the greater , part of their guests. The
commercial spirit has not yet bent their pride ;
but it will eventually, as in other countries,
smooth the supercilious brow into a smile of
wejcpme* Each reserving, as in other coun-
J
^
f^i
UNITED STATES*
11
tries, the right to compensate his cringes to the
rich by his contumely to the poor. Another
disgusting trait of American manners is the
insolent familiarity of the vulgar. But this
does not arise from the greater stock of imper-
tinence in our blackguards, but from the want
of those restraints which they feel elsewhere.
Let it, however, be observed, that the insolence
complained of is perceivable only in the lowest,
worst educated, and truly contemptible part of
the people, or rather (to speak correctly) of
the populace. Secondly, that the great ma-
jority of that populace is made up of imported
patriots, the offcast and scum of other countries.
And, thirdly, that these wretches abuse a mo-
mentary consequence, arising from the dearth
4>jr labour, to supply the increased and increa-
sing demand of agriculture, manufactures, and
trade. When peace shall confine commerce
to its former channel, such fellows must take
their flight or model themselves to the respect-
ful demeanour which distin^ishes the real pco-
p\t of America : than whom lione are more
12
NOTES ON THE
civil and obliging when fairly treated. But he
who displays in this country the insolence of
an upstart will surely meet with mortifica-
tion.
There is one striking characteristick in
the manners of America, which is generally in-
teresting. A traveller who would be intro-
duced into the first companies of Europe,
bating the case of uncommon merit or peculiar
felicity, must show his stars, his ribbands, his
military commission or noble descent. Above
all, he must not show that he is a merchant or
mechanick. But in America these passports
and precautions are alike unnecessary. He
who behaves himself well will be well received.
He will be estimated at what he is worth. His
money, if he has any, will procure him as
much respect as elsewhere, provided no glaring
vice or folly destroy its influence. Even then
he may in America, as elsewhere, find societies
to receive him when repelled by those who
respect themselves. He will be estimated at
UWITED STATES
IS
what he is worth, and if he has merit, the
honours and offices of the country are open to
him.
The extent of the United States renders
it impossible to speak of the climate but in
reference to particular parts. It is so various
that amateurs can please themselves. The
Province of Maine offers to them the fogs of
Britain, and by visiting Georgia they may bask
in the heat of the torrid zone. But, cries an
Englishman, have you any where a temperate
climate. By this, especially if he comes from
Lancashire, is meant a climate in which it
would be difficult, but for the relative length of
days and nights, to distinguish winter from
summer, and in which it rains four days out
of five. Those who seek such climate in
America must go to the neighbourhood of
Nootka Sound. But if by a temperate climate
be meant an atmosphere warm enough in sum-
mer to ripen every fruit not peculiar to the
tropicks, without that intensity of heat unfa-
•t
14
NOTES ON THE
Si
ill
vourable to health and industry, a climate
not so cold in winter as to destroy the cherry,
apricot, or peach tree, yet cold enough to g^ve
the earth repose from vegetation, and provide
ice for the succeeding summer ; that climate is
found in the middle states of America. The
winter along the sea coast, commencing about
the middle of December and continuing to the
middle of March, is variable. Sudden thaws
are succeeded by sudden frosts. A south-
east wind brings vernal air from the Gulph
Stream, and a north-wester pours down frost
from the mountains. Beyond these mountains,
however, the cold is steady and not severe.
From the middle of March to the middle or end
of April, the weather, generally bad, is some-
times fine enough to deserve the name it bears
of spring. May, though cloathed in blossoms,
and sometimes in the beginning bound by
frost, may generally be .ranked among the
summer months, and September has equal
rights, although sometimes a slight frost sup-
ports the clium of autumn. Thus the slimmer
UNITED STATES.
15
is nearly five months long, and in that period
five to fifteen days may be expected uncom-
fortably warm. The months of October, No-
vember, and great part of December, are fine.
No man who has not enjoyed the autumn of
North America can form an idea of weather so
constantly pleasant. But the climate is change-
able, say Europeans, 2iXi6. therefore unhealthy :
to which it might be tritely replied, the climate
is healthy, and therefore not changeable. All
things figure by comparison. Climate among
the rest. An insular position, especially if the
island be small, free from mountains, and far
from any continent, secures an equable; tem-
perature of the air. But if there be no sudden
changes of heat andcold, there are frequent
variations of another sorti Almost every wind
brings rain or damp,^ drizzling, disagreeable
weather. Such weather is scarcely known in the
middle states, of America. It rains ^nd snows
in eamestf after' which the atmosphere resumes
its usual brilliance* That the climate is fa-
vourable to human life is proved by the rapi-
16
NOTES ON THE
I M
II
dity of population ; to which emigrations from
Europe do indeed contribute, but in such small
proportion as to be scarcely worth notice. The
instances of healthy old age are no where more
numerous. They who contradict this fact in-
sist that the proportion of those in America
who reach the age of eighty is much smaller
than in Europe. This remains to be proved.
But if admitted, let it be considered that the
population of Europe has increased but little
in eighty years, whereas that of America, dou-
bling in twenty years, was not, eighty years ago
more than one sixteenth of the present number.
Europe therefore ought to show sixteen times
as many old men as America. To say that a
climate is variable can form no objection unless
the supposed mutability be injurious to health
or vegetation. But if we descend from animal
to vegetable life, the advantage of America
over Europe is unquestionable ; for there it is
common to loose the fruit by unseasonable
weather, a thing which rarely happens here.
UNITED STATES.
17
Of the American soil it is impossible to
speak justly without being very minute. There
is, perhaps, none quite so bad as the heaths of
Brabant, Westphalia, and lower Saxony, There
is a great deal very good — some fields unex-
hausted by the constant harvests of a century
without manure. To speak, however, as nearly
as may be in general terms, if beginning where
Hudson's River enters the sea, a line running
south of Philadelphia along the falls of Susque-
hannah, Potomack, and Rapahanock be con-
tinued through North Carolina, South Caro-
lina, and Georgia, the lands east of it are of
indifferent quality, although there be many
large tracts of excellent soil. West of this
line to the mountains the land is generally
good, but yet large tracts may be found which
are bad. From New York to Boston the land
between the mountains and the sea is rocky,
and in some places the soil, generally fruitful, is
meagre. There are fine vallies between the
different ranges of mountains, and some of the
mountains have excellent soil to the top. The
e
18
NOTES ON THE
It
III
ih
great western valley from Quebeck to New
Orleans, is perhaps unequalled for extent and
fertility. In ascending the St. Laurence and
descending the Alleghany and Ohio, the moun-
tains on the left recede, and at length subside :
those on the right lie at a vast distance beyond
the western shore of the lakes. At the
head of the St. Laurence is that congeries of
inland seas, whose waters, almost as trans-
parent as air, preserve in this majestick stream
its constant fulness. Those lakes, of which
Ontario, the last, and by no means the lar-
gest, presents a surface of more than five thou-
sand square miles, are of such vast extent,
that no supposable quantity of rain can make
any important change. Moreover, all the rivers
they receive would not supply in a year the
waste by evaporation in a month. They are
unquestionably fed by springs, and as their
surface varies very litde, so the supply of water
which they pour into the St. Laurence is con-
stant. Many considerable streams which some-
times overflow and are at other times much
UNITED STATES.
19
reduced, flow into that river ; but the amount
of what they furnish is so small compared with
the volume from Lake Ontario, that in a space
of fifty leagues from Cadaraqui to the mouth of
Attawa River, the depth of water seldom varies
a foot in a year.
The climate of this immense valley is un-
commonly regular, fenced by a broad rampart
of mountains against the mutability of the
ocean, its seasons are determined by the ad-
vance and recess of the sun ; and as causes
must precede effects, the warmth of spring in
the latitude of forty. five (which is the northern
boundary of the United States) is seldom com-
pletely established before the first of May,
neither does the cold reign of winter commence
until the middle or end of November. A
recent fact deserves to be noted here. During
the storm which on the 23d and 24th of last
August made such dreadful ravage along the
sea coast from New Hampshire to Georgia, it
was (beyond the first range of mountains) calm
I' I
,^
20
NOTES ON THI
I
m
and pleasant. In going from St. Regis south-
wardly up the river for forty miles, there is
little cliange of latitude or climate : but there,
having ascended the rapids, the influence of the
lakes becomes perceptible. The winter is less
cold and the summer more mild. Keeping
on east of the lakes for about five hundred
miles through eight degrees of longitude and
three of latitude, the climate is nearly the
same. All the fruits of a temperate climate
flourish and come- to great perfection in the
open air except the peach, which has not yet
succeeded beyond the latitude of Niagara, but
at that place it is abundant. After getting on
further south and losing the influence of the
lakes, the climate is governed by the latitude,
till at length, in the neighbourhood of New
Orleans, are found the orange and sugar cane.
Some credulous people, seduced by flat-
tering descriptions of America, have been led
into ruinous speculations. They rashly sup-
posed that man could here, as m a terrestrial pa-
's
ITMITXD tTATXS.
21
i^
radise, live without labour and without law.
These were the dreams of unripe judgment,
and these were not the only illusions. It may
dissipate some of them to inform Europeans
that in America the professions of law, physick
and divinity, are fully supplied. That the ar%
of trading with small capital or no capital, is
well understood. That the fine arts, little cul-
tivated, receive but small encouragement.
That those who wander from the path of indus-
try will soon be entangled by want. That
thoj?e who expect to live by contrivance will
be greatly disappointed. The market is already
overstocked with that commodity. Labourers
and mechanicks cannot f^ul of success if they
be sober, honest, industrious and steady. But
such men seldom emigrate. The idle and
dissolute are better pleased than at home, be-
cause wages are high, and ardent spirits cheap,
so that with tolerable management they can be
drunk three days in the week. But this rogue's
jubilee is almost over. The great demand for
labour must cease wUh the war ; and even
I
22
NOTES Olf THE
while it lasts it would be better for such fellows
to enlist in Europe. They can be as idle,
will enjoy better health, and may live longer;
for rum and whiskey are as fatal as the gun and
bayonet. We frequently see an old soldier,
but an old sot is very rare.
I
The influence of exaggerated description
has in nothing been greater than in what relates
to the land of America. Those awful forests
which have shaded through untold ages a
boundless extent; those streams, compared
to which the rivers of Europe are but rills,
streams which, deep and smooth, meander
many hundred leagues through a soil waiting
only the hand of culture to produce luxuriant
abundance ; those forests, streams and plains,
dazzled the eye of reason and led the judg-
ment astray. It should have been considered
that great labour njust be applied to destroy
the forest before it can yield a harvest. That
harvest too must with labour be gathered and
prepared for market. At length embarked on
UNITED STATES.
2S
the bosom of the flood, it must traverse exten-
sive regions before it can be sold. It must
pay (in freight) not only the expense of a voy-
age to the sea, but that of the boatmen on their
return. Foreign articles also must bear a great
charge of transportation ; so that if the inhabi-
tants can obtain from their produce tlie supply
of their wants, little if any thing will remaifi to
pay for land. He, therefore, who traces along
the map the course of those majestick rivers
should calculate a little before he counts on the
advantage of their downhill navigation. The
time will come, and perhaps it is not remote,
when manufacturing to^^Tis will be established
in those regions. The produce of the farmer
will be then consumed by the artisan, and the
articles he prepares will be used by those who
till the soil. An intercourse more certain and
more lucrative than foreign trade. But until
that period arrives, every proposition respect-
ing the western country should be examined
with great sobriety.
f
34
NOTES ON THE
«:
Here the question may be asked, if it is in
no case advisable to purchase American lands ;
and as this subject may hereafter occupy much
of publick attention, some moments bestowed
on it may not be misapplied. Unquestionably
the lands of America present a valuable object
to those who are in condition to avail them-
selves of the advantage, provided they acquire
the needful information and act prudently.
The reason is obvious. Not much more than
a century has elapsed since the land of America
was worth little or nothing. At first it was
worth less than nothing, for the original settlers
were obliged to bring with them not only
cloaths and tools, but food, and must never-
theless have perished if the original stock of
necessaries had not been frequently replenished
by supplies from their native country. Land
was then given away, and few would accept
the gift coupled with the condition of settle-
ment. As population increased, it became of
more value, and as settlements extended, the
value advanced slowly at first, then with acce-
I
UNITED STATES.
25
■
lerated velocity, so that in tlie last ten years it
has been greater than in the preceding twenty.
Several causes combine to produce this effect ;
as first a general rise in the price of all commo-
dities, or, wliat is equivalent, a general de-
crease in the value of money owing to an in-
crease of the quantity. This, liowever, is not
so great as many have imagined ; for the price
of wheat throughout Europe, during the eigh-
teenth century, has been on an average about
one penny sterling a pound, and nearly as dear
in the last period of twenty years as in the first.
The expense of living arises in some degree
from taxes imposed on consumption, and
partly from the higlier style of modern house-
keeping. Admitting, however, tlie existence
and the operation of this general cause, a re-
sort must be had to others more efficient. For
the better understanding of these, let it be ob-
served that, from the progress of commerce
and the useful arts, the price of land hjis in-
creased in some parts of Europe, while it
declined in others without any considerable
D
Hi
26
NOTES ON THE
I
change in the state of population, and that in
general where population has increased the
value of lands has also increased. Thus we
have three distinct causes, commerce, manu-
factures, and population. These are perma-
nent. Those which are fortuitous should not
be noticed. Now these permanent causes have
been more developed in America than in any
other country. The population has doubled
every twenty years ; the progress of manufac-
tures is as rapid at least ; and that of commerce
is equal to both. The increase of American
manufactures is scarcely suspected abroad or
at home : but forty years ago hardly an axe or
a scythe was made on the western side of the
Atiantick. Carriages of pleasure, household
furniture, and even butter, cheese, and salted
provisions were imported. Things are in this
respect greatly changed. Much is exported
of the articles last mentioned, and even the
manufacture of superfine cloth, now in its in-
fancy, bids fair to become extensive, the wool
of America being little inferiour to that of
I
UNITED STATES.
27
Spain. The wide range of our commerce is
generally known, but one circumstance which
bears on the present object must not be omit-
ted. That commerce, which twenty years ago
was wholly supported by English credit, rests
now principally on American capital, which is
more than sufficient for the trade that will re-
main at a general peace. To apply these facts
with mathematical precision would gratify only
inquisitive minds fond of nice calculation, and
would convert this hasty sketch from loose
hints to abstruse speculation. It is sufficient,
on the present occasion, to say that by these
causes the value of land has been raised and
from the continuance of these causes must
continue to rise. Peace must operate to the
same end. first, by lessening the demand of
money to support commerce, and of course
leaving more for the purchase and improve-
ment of land; secondly, by a fall in the price
of labour, because produce being the result of
a combination between land and labour, the
share of land increases in proportion, as that of
ft
28
WOTES ON tHE
labour is diminished ; and thirdly, by the dimi-
nution of freight and ensurance, which, facili-
tating the interchange of articles, foreign and
domestick, gives greater intrinsick value to
both. Judicious speculations in land have
yielded more in the last ten years than in the
twenty preceding, or the antecedent forty.
Hence it is reasonable to believe that they will
continue to be advantageous. But the ques-
tion occurs, where and how are they to be
made ?
Those who Would derive a great imme-
diate revenue from land should purchase in the
lower parts of South Carolina and Georgia, or
in the vicinity of New Orleans. They must
purchase slaves also, and superintend the plant-
ing of cotton, rice and sugar. The profit
will be great j but the climate is not favourable
to northern constitutions; tlie culture is un-
pleasant, and there are some inconveniences,
such as occasional hurricanes and the danger
to be apprehended from a revolt of slaves.
UNITED STATES.
29
f
This culture, moreover, requires previous in-
struction and experience. North of the dis-
trict just mentioned) little revenue can be de-
rived from land. The culture by slaves in
Maryland, Virginia, and North Carolina, sel-
dom pays five per cent, on the capital employed.
But in these states, particularly the two first,
a gentleman who wishes to enjoy the pleasures
of a country life, coupled with its cares, who
has no objection to become the master of slaves,
and can submit to the inconveniences of a
warmer summer than he has been accustomed
to in Europe, with the consequent defect of
verdure, may with little difficulty discover ex-
cellent situations. He will find among the
gentlemen honourable temper, liberal man-
ners, and frank hospitality ; among the ladies
beauty and accomplishment, joined to virtue
and good housewifery. But he must not expect
that his property will increase in value. This
Catmot happen until the labour of slaves shall
have been replaced by that of freemen, a period
which seems to be remote.
s. f
30
NOTES ON THE
I
It has already been hinted that property on
the rivers which empty into the Mississippi
cannot attain to great money value until manu-
facturing towns shall grow up in that quarter.
It is to be observed that the American cultiva-
tor generally pays more for his produce in
labour than in the price of land. A first crop
of wheat costs about twenty dollars per acre,
exclusive of the land on which it is raised.
The crop in countries favourable to it may be
taken at from fifteen to five and thirty bushels :
rarely on new land so little as fifteen and
sometimes more than forty. It is evident that
the expense and amount of a crop being the
same, the value of land must depend on the
price of its produce. Where wheat sells for a
dollar, the crop usually pays for both clearing
and culture — frequently for the land and some-
times more ; but when it will not bring above
a quarter of a dollar, the most abundant crop
will scarcely defray the expense of tillage.
Hence it follows, that if this great western re-
gion were as favoun'ble to wheat as it is to In-
lir
UNITED STATES.
31
dian corn, it must lor a long time be of little
value. The scene for advantageous specula-
tions in land, therefore, is confined on the south
by the southern line of Pennsylvania, on the
west and northwest by the Alleghany moun-
tains, till we come south of Niagara, and then
by Lake Ontaf io, and the river St. Laurence,
and on the north by the boundary of the Uni-
ted States. From this tract, however, must
be excepted the province of Maine, in which,
nevertheless, there are said to be some tracts
of excellent soil, and which can certainly boast
of fine harbours and fisheries. But taken in
general, the country is not fertile, and the cli-
mate is not inviting, wherefore the current of
emigration from New England sets westward.
The northern parts of New Hampshire are
inclement and mountainous. Good land there
as well as in Vermont, is deai', and large tracts
of it are not to be purchased, neither are such
to be had either in Massachussetts or Connecti-
cut, which states are so full of people that
many thousands annually emigrate. Small tracts
I
f
ii''
32
NOT£$ ON THE
may be found which from the populousness of
the neighbourhood will yield with good man-
agement a fair rent. Men possessing about
ten thousand pounds sterling might establish
themselves here, but not before they have
dwelt long enough in the country to know the
usages, manners, and disposition of the inha-
bitants as well as the climate, soil and circum-
stances peculiar to different positions. In gene-
ral, those parts of Connecticut and Massachus-
setts which border on New York would be
preferred ; but it must be remarked that lands
along the sound bear a price far beyond their
value, and more especially those near the city
of New York. North of Massachussetts along
Connecticut river there is a charming country,
but the climate becomes harsh in going north-
ward, and rising at the same time to a greater
elevation from the level of the sea. Men of
the property abovementioned might perhaps
find a few good positions in New Jersey, or
the cultivated parts of Pennsylvania or New
York. But in none of these places is there
il
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33
room for what is understood in America by
land speculations. They must be confined to
the unsettled parts of Pennsylvania or New
York. Most of the former lie west of the
Alleghany, and the remainder consists of se-
veral ranges of mountains with the vallies be-
tween them. These mountains are in general
hi.];h, rough, and not unfrcquently sterile. The
vallies are narrow, and the access to them
difficult, The land beyond the mountains
falls under the general description of that which
is watered by the western streams, although
Pittsburg, already a manufacturing town, gives
value to the neighbourhood. In effect, the
lands conveniently situated in Pennsylvania
are for the most part inhabited ; still, however,
good tracts may be found in the counties of
Luzerne and Northampton, not too remote.-
from the circle of commerce. The roads now
laid out, and in part completed through the
states of New York and New Jersey, to con-
nect these lands with the city of New York,
together with those which open a communica-
I
34
NOTES ON THE
illlv
tion with Pliiladelphia to great part of them,
must rapidly increase their value. The inte-
riour of the state of New York presents the
fairest scene for operations on land, because it
lies within the influence of commerce. A bare
inspection of the map will show that in going
round by water from Oswego, on Lake Onta-
rio, to St. Regis, on the St. Laurence, and
thence by land to Lake Champlain, the whole
course is within about fifty leagues of Water-
ford, a village at the confluence of the Hud-
son and Mohawk rivers, to which sloops
ascend from New York. Thus, not to men-
tion the facilities which the river St. Laurence
presents, produce, when the roads now in ope-
ration shall be completed, may be brought
from the parts most remote to the tide waters
of Hudson's river for twenty dollars a ton,
without the aid which is derived from the
Mohawk river and lake Champlain. In going
west of a line from Oswego, to where Tioga
river falls into the Susquehannah, we recede
from the influence of commerce. The num-
1i(
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as
ber of coi moLiities which will bear tt nsr^-
tation, is Uiminishc J by the distance. ' om
Oswego to Albany, and i m Ti* ;;;a to ^^^w
York, is about the sam distaiv i, and the
Hudson running nearly parallel to tlie line from
Oswego to Tioga, the facility of navigation
through the whole intermediate space is nearly
equal. It must not, however, be forgotten
that a broad tract of mountains extends in a
southwesterly direction from Lake Champlain
to the northeastern comer of Pennsylvania.
These render the space they occupy less valu-
able, and render the communications more
difficult ; but during the last five years, so
many turnpike roads have been made, and so
many more are now making, that the trans-
portation will soon be easy throughout, saving
always the effect of distance. Nature pre-
sents also great facilities for inland navigation.
That of the Susquehannah has been practised
with success from above Tioga down to Balti-
more. That of the Mohawk is so much im-
proved that the merchant at Utica sells goods
f
i .mjJMf T.
p
36
NOTES ON THE
as cheap as at Albany, and gives nearly the
same price for procliicc. It must be noted
also that the mountains last mentioned do not
form a continued chain, but lie in detached
masses. Those who ascend the Mohawk river
to Rome in a batteau are already on the western
side of the mountains and can in the same boat
descend by Wood Creek, Oneida Lake, and
Oswego River, to Lake Ontario.
I
Hitherto the advantages to be derived
from the navigation of the St. Laurence have
been unnoticed, but they are eminent, and the
more so from that constant fulness of the
stream which has already been mentioned.
From the sea port of Montreal to the mouth of
Lake Ontario, merchandise is transported for
one dollar per hundred weight, a small addi-
tion to the value. The navigation downward
is much less expensive, and by means of it,
timber, which in clearing many parts of Ame-
rica must be destroyed, can be turned to good
account. Many productions sell as high at
UNITED STATES.
Montreal as at New York ; some higher.
From the hills southeast of the St. Laurence
pour down numerous streams which give value
as well as health and beauty to that country.
The coincidence of these things, with an un-
common fertility of soil, have induced num-
bars to come in from the eastern states ; and
there is every reason to believe that all the
land fit for culture will be speedily settled.
It remains to consider the manner in which
operations of the sort now contemplated are to
be performed. And first, the purchase may be
either in large tracts of uncertain quality, or in
small tracts, the soil of which is known to
be good. He who purchases a small tract of
choice land, must pay a large price, but he
has the moral certainty of a speedy sale. He
who purchases a large tract unexplored pays
less, but much of it may be bad, and the
sales will not speedily be completed. Opi-
nions on this subject vary; but experience
favours the purchase of large tracts at a mode-
i
I
1'
i)
,1,
)((,
38
NOTES ON THE
rate price. In this case there is less to be
apprehended from the mistake or misrepresen-
tation of surveyors, and frequently the pro-
portion of good land is so great, that if made
to bear the whole price, it will be as cheap as
the small tract, leaving the inferiour quality a
clear profit. Moreover, when the best lands
are sold and in cultivation, those which adjoin
them find as good and sometimes a better
market.
!■,,,
Supposing the purchase made, there are
several modes of sale. First, the land may
be sold as it was bought, in mass, at an
advanced price, which is the easiest, but
not the most profitable mode. Secondly,
It may be retailed to settlers by an agent on
the spot, who is to receive a fixed salary
or a commission. The landholder who
gives a salary to his agent is certain of
nodiing but the expense. He will generally
be pestered with costly projects of roads,
mills, and viiiages, ^vhich seldom answer any
UNITED STATES.
39
good purpose^ The roads, if not laid out judi-
ciously will not be travelled; in which case they
soon grow up in bushes and become im-
passable. The mills must have millers,
and the millers must have salaries, which
they are careful to receive, but neglect
their mills for the sake of hunting, fishing,
or other idle pursuits ; whereas the settler
who builds a mill for his own account
attends to it for his own interest. Houses
built by a landlord arc generally occupied by
vagabonds. The industrious prefer living on
their own land in their own houses. But
bad settlers repel good ones. If the agent
be paid by a commission, he will still hanker
after expensive establishments, tending, as he
supposes, to increase the sales, and at any
rate to give him an air of importance. He
will moreover pay too little attention to the
moral character of settlers, which is neverthe-
less an important circumstance ; for land al-
ways sells higher in the neighbourhood of
sober, honest, industrious people, than in that
It..
i
'1
I
40
NOTES ON THE
of the lazy and profligate. Whichever of
these two modes be adopted, the agent, if not
perfectly honest, may sell the best land to
friends, and share with them in a profit on the
re-sale. To avoid these inconveniences, a
third mode has been adopted. A contract is
made with a capable person, and the lands are
fixed at a price agreed on. He superintends
the sale to setders, which is not to be under a
price also agreed on, and for his compensation
receives one half of what remains after paying
to the owner the price first mentioned with the
interest. By this means, the interest of the
agent is so intimately connected with that of
his employer that he can seldom promote
one at the expense of the other. Whatever
mode of sale be adopted, these things are to
be remarked : first, the choice of farms and
of sites for mills, must be given freely to the
first comers on moderate terms and long cre-
dit, because the future price will depend much
on the improvements they make. Secondly,
in the progress of settlement, prices must be
UNITED STATES.
41
raised and credit shortened, so that, having
taken care that the first settlers were good,
idlers and paupers may be kept off. Thirdly,
the landlord must make no reservation of par-
ticular spots, because he would thereby dis-
gust settlers and turn them away ; whereas
he can always get back any part which may
strike his fancy, by giving a little more land
in tlie vicinity, and a fair compensation for
the expense of clearing. Besides, a choice
of situation is more easily made after the
country is opened than before. Finally, when
the sales are sufficient to reimburse the capi-
tal employed, with the interest, it is wise to
pause and let the effect of cultivation be felt.
Purchasers become eager, and prices rise, so
that what remains of good land will sell well :
the bad should be kept. It will in a certain
time become of great value, because settlers
cut down and destroy timber as fast as they
can, counting on the purchase of wood lots
when their own farms shall be stript of trees.
To get these lots they will pay three times as
p
42
NOTES ON THE
much for bad land as the good cost them ; but
the, landlord had better not sell, but kt thejn
have wood at a low price, until they are aU
in want of fuel, and then a permanent revenue
muiy be raised from the forest. This, by the
by, is a better provision for posterity than
to leave a large tract unsettled. In that case
intruders go on, careless of title, whom it is
difficult and expensive to renv)ve.
There remains another mode by which lands
niay be disposed of, which has not been hi-
therto practised, and for which, indeed, the
country was not ripe. A man may purchase
from twenty to sixty thoujsand acres, and se-
lect foV his special domain in the centre, as
much as he shiUl think proper. After making
an accurate survey, obtaining good inforraar
tioo, and duly considering all circumstances,
he may fix an agent at the, place proper for a
village, give away to good tradesmen, some
building lots, and (with each) a smaU lot for
p^tujije, it^