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Lorsque Ie document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seui clich6, il est fiimd A partir de Tangle 8up6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant Ie nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ■AMBiMiW u '/ CAiPTAIJ^ K^l /'^ ^/ JK j-.s: ■«»« - . «l ll 1*1 I l^ll i THE LIFE AND VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, Dra^rn up from his Journals, and other authentic documents ; and comprising much original information : r c j^ •^1 ^ 'I By the Rev. GEORGE YOUNG, A.M., Corresponding Member of the Wernerian Natural History Society, and of the Northern Institution ; Secretary to the Whitby Literary and Philosophical Society ; and Honorary Member of the Literary and Philosophica.' Societies of Yorkshire, Hull, Newcastle, Leeds, &c. ILLUSTRATED WITH SEVERAL BNORATIMOB. r H LONDON : WHITTAKER, TREACHER, & Co. OLIPHANT AND SON, EDINBURGH j AND M'lEOD, GLASGOW. 1836. €o tbt $ting. ' '► SIRE, As thejirst Life of Captain Cook wan dedicated to Your Majesty s Royal Father, the illustri- ous Patron of Navigation and Science, it is fit that this new history of that renowned Seaman, should be dedicated to a Sovereign, who has known by experience the duties and enjoyments, the hardships and perils, of a seafaring life ; who is feelingly alive to whatever concerns the welfare of the British Navy, ready to crown with distinction the eminent Commanders of the present day, and to honour the memory of former Navigators, whose names shine bright in the annals of their country. In availing myself of Your Majesty's gracious permission to dedicate this work to my revered and beloved Sovereign, I may be allowed to express a hope, that the brilliant example of heroism, patience, loyalty, patriotism, and benevolence, which it exhibits, may prove useful to various classes of Your Majesty's subjects, especially that class to whom Your Majesty's name must be peculiarly dear. That the naval, commercial, and general interests of Your Majesty's Empire may c«. itinue to flourish ; and that the reign of Your Majesty may be long, peaceful, and glorious, is the ardent wish of Your Majesty's most devoted servant, and loyal subject, GEORGE YOUNG. Whitby, Dec, Ist, 1835. ■BW^— I"' 'W. .i»«U. ..J. _J»ii PREFACE. i (i f The Life of Captain Cook, by Dr. Kippis, was published in 1788, four years after the appearance of his last Voyage to the Pacific ; and although several biographical sketches have since been pro- duced, no other respectable Life of Cook has issued from the press. During the 48 years that have intervened, materials for an improved history of the great navigator have been accumulating. Much light has been thrown on his discoveries, by the labours of succeeding voyagers, and the progress of events ; important effects have resulted from his voyages ; and not a few particulars of his history, unknown to Dr. Kippis, have transpired. A new Life of Cook, embodying the substance of this additional information with what is already pub- lished, has thereforie been long required. A work of this description has for some years been contemplated by the author, whose attention was drawn to the subject, by an early predilection for this renowned mariner, and the pleasure ex- perienced in preparing a sketch of his life, for the biographical department of the History of Whitby and its Vicinity ; but especially by the enjoyment of facilities for obtaining an intimate acquaintance with his history, during a residence of thirty years near the spot where he was bom, and amidst the scenes where he passed his childhood and youth. Several original anecdotes, unpublished letters, and other valuable materials for history, have been procured, through intercourse with his relations, friends, and acquaintance, including one or two surviving school companions. mmi' I" VI PREFACE. As the most interesting portion of the life of Cook was spent in his three successive voyages of discovery, it is chiefly from the published narratives of these voyages that his biographer must draw- materials. At the same time, the author has avail- ed himself of those illustrations of his character and discoveries, which have been furnished by cotemporary publications, and the journals of suc- ceeding navigators ; as well as by the writings of Missionaries, and others, who have resided for years in the countries which he discovered. A much more extensive use of such helps was at one time intended, and the value of the preseni; work might have been greatly enhanced, by introducing r^ore copious illustrations from Forster, Vancouver, Tumbull, Ellis, Beechey, and others. But the Voyages of Cook himself comprise so much inter- esting matter, that such additions could not have been made, without condensing that matter too closely, or extending the work beyond its proposed limits. The abridged view of Cook's voyages and dis- coveries here given, is not copied from Kippis, but drawn up from the original narratives, wil't the assistance derived from other sources referred to. This volume is, therefore, not a mere abridgment, or compilation ; but an original work, the result of much labour, and patient investigation. In a com- position of this nature, great care is necessary, to exhibit a fair, perspicuous, and interesting view of successive transactions and events; with a judi- cious selection of details and illustrations, and an accurate statement of dates, localities, and other particulars: and, notwithstanding the pains be- stowed on this work, the intelligent reader may I I PREFACE. vn detect various blemishes. In a field so extensive, and amidst objects so multitudinous, it is difficult to p,ive every thinji' its proper place, and its pro- portionate share of attention. A prominent^ posi- tion may have been assi<^ned to inferior toi)ics, while others more worthy of notice are placed in the back ground ; and matters comparatively triv- ial are perhaps amply set forth, while subjects of greater moment are unreasonably compressed, or altogether thrust out. The author has not, in every instance, preserved as he intended, a uniformity in the spelling of S. Sea names and words. Inaccu- racies of this kind are, however, excusable, as the names are spelled differently in the different voy- ages ; and, having then no written language as a guide, each navigator adopted an orthography of his own. Thus, the name Tamehameha is written by Sam well, Ka-mea-mea; by Vancouver, Tamaah- maah ; by Turnbull, Tamahama ; while, in Cook's last voyage, it is Maiha-maiha : and hence, Capt. Beechey, not adverting to this, erroneously states, that this chief " is not mentioned in the official account of Cook's voyage." Yet, whatever faults may be discerned by a crit- ical eye, in this account of the life and voyages of Cook, the author flatters himself, that it will be found both ample and interesting. Care has been taken, to preserve as nearly as possible in all their freshness, those graphic delineations of nature and of man, which abound in the original narratives ; and to give a becoming prominence to those pas- sages which best display the grand features of our navigator's character, and to those also which con- vey the most important moral lessons. In this way, it is hoped, the work is calculated to profit. wmmmtm vm PREFACE. as well as to please : for, while the surprising ad- ventures and singular discoveries of our hero, can scarcely fail to give delight ; the exhibitions of his conduct, and the occurrences of his life, are fraught with valuable instructions, wliich it is the duty of his historian to point out. It would have been gratifying, to have dwelt longer on the happy re- sults of his voyages, in the extension of commerce, science, civilization, and religion; but it was neces- sary to confine the book within certain bounds, to adapt it for general circulation ; especially among seamen, for whose use it is peculiarly designed. With this view, it does not '"ome forth in the sliape of a bulky tome, but assumes the form of a neat pocket volume, to be a suitable companion in voy- ages and travels. In conclusion, the author would express his gratitude to his respected friends, who have liber- ally patronized and promoted this undertaking. In every quarter where he has had occasion to apply for information or assistance, he has received the most polite attentions : and as his obligations are too numerous to be acknowledged in detail, he entreats his correspondents and friends, who have furnished him with books, extracts, letters, registers, inscriptions, and oral information, to accept this general acknowledgment of their esteemed services. May the work which they have so kindly encour- aged, afford them all the entertainment which they have expected ; and may it prove an incitement to virtue and piety, to benevolence and temperance, to bold enterprise and patient continuance in well doing; to eVery thing, in short, that constitutes genuine goodness, and true greatness ! a N CONTENTS. Page. ' CHAPTER I. Birth, Pftrentaji^e, and early Employments of Cook, to 1)18 entering the Navy .. .. CHAPTER II. Cook volunteers into the Navy — is promoted— serves at Quebec, and Newfoundland. — Returns home, and mar- ries — is appointed Marine Surveyor of Newfoundland, &c. His Charts. Mistake of Chalmers CHAPTER III. Cook appointed to conduct the Voyage to the S. Sea, for observing the Transit of Venus. Officers and Scientific Gentlemen. Arrival at Madeira, — Rio Janeiro — ^Terra del Fuego — Pacific Ocean — Otaheite CHAPTER IV. Friendly intercourse and trade with theTahitians. Port and observatory erected. Musket stolen — ^native shot. I'ootahah — Oberea. Transit of Venus. Manners of the natives. Tupia and his boy taken on board. Departure from Otaheite CHAPTER V. Huaheine visited— Ulietea—Otaha—Bolabola. Depar- ture from the Society Islands. Oheteroa discovered. Comet seen . . . . . . . . • . CHAPTER VI. New Zealand discovered. Some natives killed : others taken and kindly treated. Various capes and bays observed. Bay of Islands. Queen Charlotte's Sound* The natives cannibals. Cook's Straits. The islands circumnavigated. Memorials left. Everett's verses.. CHAPTER VII. New S. Wales discovered, and the coast traced. Botany Bay. Thirsty Sound. The Endeavour strikes on a rock; is got ofiT, and repaired. Transactions at Endeavour xCiver •. •• «. .. •* «• 9 17 33 49 56 r,- 76 CHAPTER VIII. Perils of the voyage— Providential Channel. Possession Island— Endeavour Straits. New Guinea— Savu. Ba- tavia. Great sickness and death there, and on the pas> sage to the Cape. Voyage home . . . . . 95 r wmmmpwm* mmm CONTENTS. CHAPfER IX. Page. Cook received with much honour. His letters to Mr. Walker. Narrative of the voyage. Visit to Ayton and Whitby. New expedition. '^Resolution and Ad- venture. Instructions for the Second Voyage . . 109 CHAPTER X. Arrival ai Madeira — St. Jago— Cape of Good Hope. Ant- arctic Seas. Icebergs. Snips parted. Aurora australis. Dusky Bay. The ships meet in Q. Charlotte's Sound 123 CHAPTER XI. Animals and Vegetables left at New Zealand. Voyage to the S. and E. — Islands discovered. Otaheite. Oaiti- piha. King Waheatua. Matavai. King Otoo. Hua- lieine. King Oree — Omai. Ulietea — Oreo, Oedidee.. 140 CHAPTER XII. Harvey's Island discovered. Friendly Isles. Services of Attago. Stupid Areeke. Passage to New Zealand. Ships finally parted. Q. Charlotte's Sound. Canni- balism. Voyage towards the S. Pole. Return north- ward. The Captain's plans : his sickness and recovery 157 CHAPTER XIII. Easter Island. — Marquesas. Other islands visited. Ota- heite : improved state of the island : large fleet. Trans- actions at Otaheite. Population. Huaheine: Oree— > thefts — dramatic representations. Ulietea: friendship of Oreo : parting with him, and with Oedidee .. .. 172 CHAPTER XIV. Small islands met with. Savage Island. Annainooka. New H; brides : — MallicoUo — Erromango. Transactions at Taona; its Volcano, &c. Erronan — Annatom — Tierra del Espiritu Santo, of Quiros. Bougainville's Passage 196 CHAPTER XV. New Caledonia. Incidents there. Coast explored. Dan- gers incurred. Norfolk Isle. Q. Charlotte's Sound. Horrible fate of a boat's crew, belonging to the Ad- venture. Sequel of the Adventure's Voyage 220 CHAPTER XVI. Voyage to Terra del Fuego. Christmas Sound. Cape Horn. Success Bay. New Year's Harbour and Isles, in Staten Land> S. Georgia discovered. Sandwich Land. Southexn Thule. Arrival at the Cape of Good Hopch— St Helena — AscensioD—Fernaado de Noironba — Fayal. Arrival in England 243 4 ige. 109 125 1 140 157 172 196 220 243 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVII. XI Page. Interest felt in Cook's arrival. Honours conferred on Iiim. New Voyage projected. Letters to Mr. Walker. Notices of Omai — his trip to York, Scarborough — Mulgrave, &c. Cook's Father. Lord Mulgrave, the navigator. Cook's honours as a scholar ; — his merits as an author. Equipment of the Resolution and Dis- covery. Presents to Omai, &c. Letter to Commodore Wilson. .. CHAPTER XVIII. Cook proceeds on his third voyage. Teneriffe. Cape of G. Hope. Kerguelen's Land. Van Diemen's Land. New Zealand. Kahoora the murderer. New Zealand youths taken on board, to accompany Omai. CHAPTER XIX. Discovery of M angeea— of Wateeoo. Omai meets three of his countrymen. Hervey Island. Palmerston Island. Komango. Annamooka. Feenou, and other chiefs. Hapaee Isles. Festivities and exhibitions there. King Poulaho. Tongataboo. .. CHAPTER XX. Festivities at Tongataboo. The natche, &c. Eaooa. Observations on the Friendly Isles. Toobonai discov- ered. Arrival at Oaitipiha in Otaheite. Visit of the Spaniards. Omai's imprudence. Matavai — Otoo — Oedidee. restored. War with Eimeo. Human sacrifices. Peace CHAPTER XXI. Eimeo. Maheine's dishonesty. Severe measures for re- covering stolen goats. Huabeinc : Omai's settlement there. His history. Notices of Oedidee. Ulietea. De- serters; trouble in recovering them. Bolabola. Christ- mas iHland. Sandwich Islands discovered — Atooi — Oneeheorv CHAPTER XXII. American t^oast. Nootka Sound. Prince William's Sound. Cook's River. Oonalashka. The Tschutski. Behring's Straits. Progress stopped by ice. Return southwai-d. Norton's Sound. Russian traders at Oona- lashka. Return to the Sandwich Islands— Mowee— Owhyhee— Karakakooa Bay. Close of Captain Cook's Journal .. 262 306 323 34? P ;'i? 378 398 4 mmmmmm Xll CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXIII. Page. Crowds of natives. Divine honours paid to Capt. Cook. Reflections on the subject. Kin<{ Terreeoboo's inunifi- cence. Furniture of the Morai bouajht. Departure from Karakakooa. Return. Thefts ofthe natives. Attack on the pinnace. Cutter stolen. Capt. Cook endeavours to get the King on board : is opposed. Quarrel with the natives. Death of Capt. Cook. Treatmentof his body. Negociations for recovering it. Villageof Kakooaburnt. Bones of Captain Cook recovered and interred. CHAPTER XXIV. Sequel of the voyage. Its publication. Cook's death uni- versally lamented. His high character acknowledged, and his memory honoured. Respect shewn to his family. Notices of his relations. Monuments erected to his honour. Happy results of his Voyages. .. .. 417 443 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Portrait of Captain Cook Marton Church (see below) Staitlis Whitby, from the Angel Inn Yard New Zeal anders in Dusky Bay Otaheite, from the N.W., with Canoes Death of Captain Cook Easby Monument To face Title. p. P- P' P- P- P- P- i 4 8 136 376 435 458 i «n B. i )k 17 THE LIFE OF COOK. 13 CHAPTER I. ^^<^.' i: Birth, Parentage, and early Employments of Cook, to his entering the British Nary. Captain James Cook, the prince of navigators, one of the brightest ornaments of his country, pos- sessed not the advantage of an illustrious parent- age ; but, like not a few of the great and noble, he rose to eminence by the splendour of his talents, and the worth of his character. His father, who had the same name, followed the humble occupa- tion of an agricultural labourer. He is said to have come from the village of Ednam, near the banks of the Tweed, well known as the birth-place of Thomson the poet. The circumstances which induced him to quit his native home, and settle in Cleveland, in the north-east part of Yorkshire, are not known; but when he left his father's house, quite a youth, his mother bestowed her parting blessing in these words, " God send you grace !" and when he married a young woman whose christian name was Grace, and who appears to have been a native 2 m.. ■■■i IMiR^P Z LIFE OF COOK. of Cleveland, he observed, jocosely, that in one sense at least, the prayer of his pious mother had been answered. The young couple resided for a time in the small township of Morton, in the parish of Ormesby, not far from Guisborough; and the baptism of their son John, who lived to the age of twenty-three, is entered in the parish register at Onnesby, under the date of January 10th, 1726-7. From hence they removed to the village of Marton, about a mile to the westward ; and here their son James was born, October 27th, 1728. His baptism is thus entered in the parish register at Marton : " 1728. nobr 3. James ye Son of James Cook day labourer baptized." The house in which he was bom was a small thatched cottage, of two apartments, which was de- molished by the late Major Rudd, about the year 1786, when he was erecting his mansion house, laying out pleasure grounds, and making improve- ments in the village. The site of the cottage is in the grounds behind the hall. Timothy Lax, an old shoemaker of the village, who died lately at the age of fourscore, and whose wife's mother, Ann Mainsforth, who lived to the age of ninety-six, was present at the Captain's birth, conducted the au- thor to the place where ^ the cottage stood. No vestige of the walls is left ; but a willow tree grows at the spot. It should have been a weeping willow, to express the regret which every stranger feels at the destruction of a dwelling, which ought to have been carefully preserved, and decorated with ever- green shrubs and fragrant flowers, in honour of the hero who drew his first breath under its roof, and who, had he not been prematurely cut off, might Kave breathed his last in a palace, as a peer of the BIRTH AND PARENTAGE. 3 realm. The cottage was at one time the village alehouse, with the sign of the Bear, and was kept by one William Pearson. When young Cook was but a few months old, his father removed to ano- ther cottage, a little further to the south-west, but in the same village. During his residence at Mar- ton, he was chiefly employed as a day labourer, by Mr. Mewbum, a farmer. At his native place, our illustrious navigator re- ceived the first iTidiments of his education, being taught to raad by Dame Walker, the schoolmis- tress of the village. Being honest, frugal, and sober themselves, his parents studied to bring up their offspring in the fear of God, and in habits of industry and goodness. Their upright conduct soon procured them a better situation j for, about the year 1736, they removed to the neighbouring parish of Ayton, where the father became hind, or foreman, on the farm of Airyholm, belonging to Thomas Skottowe, Esq. During their residence here, which was for seve- ral years, young Cook, at Mr. Skottowe's expense, was put to a day school at Ayton, taught by a Mr. PuUen, and was instructed in writing and arith- metic, in addition to reading. The school-house, situated in the upper part of Ayton, bears an in- scription, stating that it was built by Michael Pos- j, -te in 1704, and rebuilt in 1785; consequently, its appearance has been altered since it had the honour of Cook's presence. With some of his school-fellows the author has conversed, and ob- tained from them a part of this narrative. Nothing worthy of notice appeared in his character or ac- quirements at school, except a resolute adherence to his own plans, in preference to any proposed by m 4 LIFE OF COOK. his comrades. When the boys of the village as- sembled in the evening, to plan an expedition in search of birds' nests, or devise some other project for amusement. Cook might be seen in the midst of them, proposing his plan, and insisting on its superiority to any other ; and even when the cur- rent of opinion was in favour of another scheme, he would still pertinaciously adhere to his own, and proceed in the direction chosen by himself, at the risk of being almost deserted by his companions. In such juvenile transactions, we Tiii^> trace the genu of that unshaken perseverance, that inflexible finnness, with which, in mature life, he pureued the objects of his research. During the intervals of his attendance at Ayton school, and for two or three years after he had left it, young Cook was employed along with his father, in agricultural laboui-s on Mr. Skottowe's fann; and he is said to have been a stable-boy for a short period. His turn of mind> however, being suited to some better employment, he was placed, at the age of sixteen or seventeen, with Mr. William Sanderson, shopkeeper, in Staiths, a considerable fishing town, ten miles north-west from Whitby; with a view to learn the business of haberdasher, or country shopkeeper. Here, besides the concerns of the shop, a fresh set of objects engaged the youth's attention. His new residence was close to the German ocean, on the bosom of which crowds of vessels were seen passing and repassing; his new companions were young fishermen and sailors, ever ready to rehearse the adventures of a seafaring life ; his leisure hours were oft«n spent in making short excursions in fishing cobles; and thus, by degrees, he became so attached to a seafaring pro- ■' * j^ .:* ■*• Si •^rmammim EARLY EMPLOYMENTS. 5 fession, that he felt little inclination to prosecute the business of a shopkeeper. Accidents appa- rently trivial are frequently ordered by an allwise Providence to bring about the most important re- sults; and when young Cook had been about a year and a half with Mr. Sanderson, a circum- stance occurred which gave a new and powerful impulse to his growing desires for a change of employment. One day, while he was attending in the shop, a young woman, who had purchased some articles, gave him a new shilling in payment. Struck with the beauty of the coin, he resolved to keep it as a pocket piece, replacing it with one of his own. But the master, whose eye it had caught at the time of payment, missing it from the till, hastily charged him with purloining it. This charge the lad indignantly repelled, explaining to his master the true reason of its disappearance. He did wrong in making any such exchange, with- out naming it to his master ; yet there can be no doubt that he was not prompted by avarice ; and in this affair we see an early instance of that fond- ness for curiosities which he felt so strongly in his later years. It is worthy of remark, that the coin which so forcibly attracted his notice was what is called a South-Sea shilling, of the coinage of Geo. I, marked on the reverse S S C, for South Sea Com- pany; as if the name of the piece had been in- tended to indicate the principal field of his future discoveries. The altercation which took place about the shilling increased young Cook's aversion to shop- keeping, and strengthened his predilection for a seafaring life ; and Mr. Sanderson, who was a worthy man, finding him bent on going to sea, did ^■>- ■W«WT*'-. 'Jn*.- ( . JCTIiif LIFE OF COOK. not oppose his wishes ; but, with the consent of his parents, conducted him to Whitby, where he in- troduced him to Mr. John Walker, a respectable shipowner and master mariner, to whom he was bound an apprentice for three years. Mr. San- derson and his family, of whom a son and daugh- ter, Mr. John Sanderson and Mre. Dodds, survived till this history was begun, continued ever after to have a friendly regard for our hero. The house and shop where he lived with Mr. Sanderson, have long ago been swept away by the sea, which has made considerable depredations on the lower part of Staiths; but the counter behind which Cook served, with its venerable till, may still be seen there, in the shop of Mr. Richard Hutton. Our young navigator faithfully sei-ved his ap- prenticeship to Mr. Walker, first in the Freelove, of about 450 tons, employed in the coal trade, that great nursery for seamen ; and afterwards, during his last year's service, in the Three Brothers, a fine new ship of nearly 600 tons ; which, by Mr. Walker's direction, he assisted in rigging and fitting for sea. This vessel, after making two coal voy- ages, was engaged for several months as a trans- Kort, and employed in carrying some troops from liddleburgh to Dublin, and conveying other troops from thence to Liverpool. In the spring of 1749, the ship was paid off at Deptford ; and was subse- quently employed in the Norway trade, in which Cook finished his term of service in the month of July, being then nearly twenty-one years old. In the course of his apprenticeship, he spent several intervals at Whitby, chiefly in the depth of winter, when the coal vessels are usually laid up. At such Um^s, according to a custom then general I EARLY EMPLOYMENTS. 7 among Whitby shipowners, he lodged in his mas- ter's house, which was situated in Grape Lane; being the house lately occupied by Wakefield Simpson Chapman, Esq., and now by Samuel Wharton, Esq. The place where Cook slept, al- though it has undergone alterations, is still viewed with no small interest. Under the roof of Mr. Walker, a worthy member of the Society of Friends, the youth would naturally be confirmed in those habits of regularity and temperance in which he had been brought up, and which were eminently conducive to his future greatness. His sober de- portment and studious turn of mind made him respected by all the family; and he was a par- ticular favourite with Mary Prowd, a trusty old nurse or housekeeper, many years employed in Mr. Walker's house. In the winter evenings, she al- lowed him a table and a candle, that he might read or write by himself, while the other apprentices were engaged in idle talk or trifling amusements. That eagerness for knowledge, which afterwards grew so rapidly, had even then begun to take deep root in his mind ; and he found it a great advan- tage to be in the service of a gentleman who was ready to encourage him m every thing laudable. It is probable, that during part of the winter months, he attended a day school, or evening school, to learn the first principles of navigation ; according to a laudable custom, which has long prevailed among the young seamen of Whitby. His practice as a seaman, from the close of his apprenticeship until he entered the navy, exhibits nothing memorable. He went before the mast, as the phrase is, for above two years, serving on board of various ships. In 1750, he was in the Maria, •J ^m^i ■'^ 8 LIFE OF COOK. belon|?ing to Mr. John Wilkinmrn of Whitby, em- ployed in the Baltic trade, under the command of Captain Gaskin, a relation of Mr. Walker. Next year he served in a Stockton ship; and in Feb- ruary, 1752, Mr. Walker enp^aged him as mate of the Friendship, of about 400 tons; his character, as an intelligent, active, and steady seaman, being now well established. This situation Mr. Cook held three years ; during which, as well as in his previous service, he was acquiring that expertness in seamanship, and that intrepidity in danger, which are so necessary for a British seaman ; and for which Whitby sailors, in particular, have often been distinguished. The vessel was employed in the coal trade, one of the best schools for making good seamen; and so well was Captain Walker satisfied with the ability, faithfulness, and good conduct of his mate, that he was about to promote him to the command of the Friendship, when new and unexpected circumstances led Mr. Cook to bend his talents and services in another direction. The name of the last vessel in which he served Mr. Walker, was a kind of memorial of the con- nexion between them; for their fnendship lasted during life, and even unto this day the memory of Captain Cook is revered by Mr. Walker's de- scendants, some of whom still reside at Whitby. ^ ft' ■iP^ ff ".■:^;V, r 1 .M ■*l I I i 1 \\ CHAPTER II. Cook volunteers into the Navy. — Is promoted to be Master's Mate, and afterwards Master. — His services at the Siege of Quebec, and the Survey of the St. Lawrence — His services at Newfoundland. — He returns to England, and marries. — He is employed as Marine Surveyor of Newfoundland and Labrador. — His Charts. — His skill in Astronomy. — Mistake in Chalmers's Biographical Dictionary. In the beginning of summer, in the year 1755, when hostilities commenced between England and France, Mr. Cook was with his vessel in the river Thames ; and there being a hot press for seamen, he at first concealed himself to avoid being pressed : but, upon second thoughts, he resolved to volunteer into the navy, " having a mind," as he said, " to try his fortune that way." He went accordingly to a rendezvous in Wapping, and entered with an officer of the Eagle, a sixty gun ship, then commanded by Capt. Hamer, who was succeeded in October, by Capt. (afterwards Sir Hugh) Pal- liser. Soon after he had entered, Mr. Walker gave him a letter of recommendation to his Captain j and when a few months had elapsed, William Osbaldeston, Esq., M.P. for Scarborough, wrote to Captain Palliser on his behalf, at the request of some of his friends. On this occasion, the re- commendations of Messrs. John and Henry Walker, were seconded by Mr. Skottowe ; whose kindness to the parents of our navigator was unabated. It was in this year that Cook's father, who, having ■^ 10 LIFE OF COOK. I been employed by Mr. Skottowe in repairing and building walls, had acquired some practice as a stone mason, built a house for himself near the centre of the village of Ayton ; where he resided for several yeai*s, following the occupation of a mason, while he also rented and cultivated a piece of land near the village. The house, now occupied by Joseph Shearwood, is a well built stone house, having over the door the initials of James and Grace Cook, with the date; J. G. C. 1755. Independent of the recommendations of his friends, Mr. Cook soon became a favourite on board the Eagle ; his activity, talents, and good conduct, being observed by Capt. Palliser, and all the officers. When he had been two yeara or more in the service, he was preferred to the station of Master's Mate; in which capacity he served on board the Pembroke, in 1758, at the taking of Louisburg ; from whence he wrote Mr. Walker a distinct account of the transactions at that place. Next year, he was promoted to the rank of Master. He was first appointed to the Grampus sloop. May 10th ; but this appointment not taking place, he was assigned to the Garland, four days r Icr ; and, that vessel having sailed be- fore he couid join her, he was next day. May 15th, appointed Master of the Mercury ; there being a fixed resolution on the part of those in power, to promote a youth so deserving, and so well recom- mended. The Mercury sailed for North America, and joined the fleet under Sir Charles Saunders, engag- ed, along with the land forces under Gen. Wolfe, in the memorable siege of Quebec. Here the talents of Mr. Cook were called into action, in a ) I i J i 1 I ( i I I SERVICES AT QUEBEC. 11 service of high importance for the prosecution of the siege. It was necessary to take the soundings in the channel of the St. Lawrence, directly in front of tks enemy's entrenched camp at Mont- morency : and Cook, being recommended for this service by his friend and patron, Capt. Palliser, performed it in a manner that gave complete satis- faction to his officers, but with no small peril to himself. For several nights in succession, he was employed in taking the soundings, and making a sui-vey of the channel. But when he was finishing his task, he was discovered by the French, who collected a number of Indians in a wood near the river side, where they launched their canoes, to surround him and cut him off; and he had just time to escape, by pushing ashore on the island of Orleans, near the guard of the English hospital ; abandoning his boat to the Indians, who entered it at the stem, while he was leaping out at the bow. By that time, however, he had so effectually accomplished his work, that the draught of the channel and soundings, which he furnished to the Admiral, was found as correct and complete as it could have been made in day light, after Quebec had come into the possession of his countrymen. In executing such a task in the night time, and in the immediate presence of an enemy, Mr. Cook gave a most striking proof of his cool bravery, ac- curate observation, unwearied patience, and inde- fatigable pei-severance ; qualities for which he was ever after distinguished. His success was the more remarkable, as he had never been taught drawing, and was not known to have ever used a pencil before. This effort of his talents was presently followed by another, which did him equal credit. i 12 LIFE OF COOK. V. He Wtas employed to survey the wholtj of the river St. Lawrence below Quebec; and so completely did he execute this service, that his chart of the St. Lawrence, which was published, with the soundinpfs, and directions for sailing, immediately came into general use, and still maintains its high reputation. On the 22nd of September, 1759, Mr. Cook was appointed Master of the Northumberland man of war, commanded by Lord Colvill ; and wintering at Halifax, he employed his leisure hours in read- ing Euclid, and studying astronomy, with other branches of science connected with his profession. His books were few, and his opportunities for im- provement limited ; yet by dint of application, and vigour of intellect, he made uncommon progress. It is scarcely necessary to add, that he soon gained the esteem and friendship of Lord Colvill, as of every officer under whom he served. In 1762, after the Northumberland had been employed in the recapture of Newfoundland, Cook's talents were again conspicuously displayed, in making a survey of the harbour and heights of Placentia ; which gained him the favour and high esteem of Capt. (afterwards Admiral) Graves, Commander of the Antelope, and Governor of Newfoundland. Toward the close of the year 1762, Mr. Cook returned to England, and on the 21st of Decem- ber, married, at Barking in Essex, Miss Elizabeth Batts, an amiable and worthy lady, who still sur- vives him, at a very advanced age. His marriage brought a considerable accession to his happiness ; although his domestic enjoyments could only be tasted at intervals, the duties of his profession obliging him to be much more abroad than at J 1 SURVEY OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 13 I .. , » 1 ^1 home. This is one of the many privations to which seamen must submit, and for which they are en- titled to the sympathy of their countrymen. After the general peace, concluded at Paris, in 1763, Capt. Graves was again sent out as Governor of Newfoundland ; and knowing the importance of being well acquainted with the country which he was to govern, he obtained an establishment for the survey of the whole coast, and succeeded in procuring the appointment of Mr. Cook, as Marine Surveyor, having the fullest confidence in his quali- fications for the service. Notwithstanding his re- cent marriage, Mr. Cook accepted the appointment, and proceeded with Capt. Gmgiss to his station ; where he was first employed in surveying the small islands, Miqu^lon and St. Pierre, before they were given up to the French ; Capt. Graves contriving to retain those settlements till the completion of this survey, although a French Governor had al- ready arrived to take possession of the two islands, in terms of the late treaty. In the close of the year, Mr. Cook returned to England; but, on the 18th of April, 1764, he was again appointed Marine Surveyor of Newfound- land and Labrador, with a vessel, the Grenville schooner, to attend him in his official duties. In this station, he had now the happiness of serving again under his worthy patron. Sir Hugh Palliser, who had received the appointment of Governor and Commodore of Newfoundland and Labrador. In finishing the survey whicH^he had begun under Capt. Graves, Mr. Cook rendered a most important service to his country, and to the general interests of navigation. He not only produced a faithful delineation of extensive coasts, of which no correct 14 LIFE OF COOK. I charts previously existed, I it explored also the in- terior of Newfoundland, more fully than had ever been done; discovering large inland lakes, and other unknown features of the island. Among other discoveries, he is said to have found copious mines of coal in Newfoundland, so close to the shore, that the coals might be thrown directly from the works into the vessels. In these undertakings Mr. Cook was occupied for four or five successive years, in each of which he appears to have returned to spend the winter at home, resuming his station again whenever the advance of spring would permit him. The last year in which he went out as Marine Surveyor of Newfoundland, was 1767. But the main object of his appointment was completed in 1766, in which year he delivered his charts of the coasts of New- foundland and Labrador at the Admiralty office ; and, on the proposal of Sir Hugh Palliser, was allowed to publish them for the service and en- couragement of navigation. These charts bear the same character for accuracy, as his chart of the St. Lawrence. In the summer of 1766, Cook had an opportu- nity of observing an eclipse of the sun, near Cape Ray, on the Newfoundland coast. The result of his observations was communicated to the Royal Society by Dr. J. B«vis, who calls him " an able mathematician ;" and who also communicated the result of an exact observation of the same eclipse, taken at Oxford by the Rev. Mr. Homsby, with a computation of the difference of longitude of the two places of observation, by Mr. Geo. Witchell. The entire paper is inserted in the fifty-seventh volume of the Philosophical Transactions. ^^irrm^^^ MISTAKE OF CHALMERS. u % During the progress of his labours as Marine Surveyor, Mr. Cook might occasionally be engaged in other undertakings for the public good ; but there is a service ascribed to him by some of his biographers, which was done by another officer of the same name. The following paragraph stands as part of the Life of our navigator, in Chalmers's Biographical Dictionary : " He received a commission, as Lieutenant, on ** the first day of April, 1760 ;• and soon after gave " a specimen of those abilities, which recommended ** him to the commands which he executed so highly ** to his credit, that his name will go down to pos- " terity as one of the most skilful navigators which ** this country has produced. In 1765, he was with " Sir William Burnaby on the Jamaica station ; " and that officer having occasion to send dispatches " to the governor of Jucatan, relative to the logwood- " cutters in the bay of Honduras, Lieut. Cook was " selected for that employment ; and he perfonned " it in a manner which entitled him to the appro- " bation of the Admiral. A relation of this voyage "and journey was published in 1769, under the ** title of ' Remarks on a passage from the river *' Balise in the bay of Honduras, to Merida, the " capital of the province of Jucatan, in the Spanish "west Indies, by Lieutenant Cook,* in an 8vo. " pamphlet." The writer of this paragraph has not observed, that there was another Mr. James Cook in the navy, cotemporary with our hero. He was made Lieutenant, April 1st, 1760, eight years before the great navigator attained that dignity ; but he never rose above that rank, for long after the death of Capt. Cook, the name of this James Cook still 1 ' 16 MFE OF COOK. remains in the list of Lieutenants, in 1787. To him the honour of the voyage to Merida undoubtedly belongs, and not to our great navigator, who was then busily employed on the coast of Newfound- land. The glories of the latter are so abundant, that there is no occasion to swell the amount by robbing another. In the year 1765, Mr. Cook's mother died, at the age of 63. The family tomb-stone in Ayton church- yard, which records her death, and that of two sons and three daughters, most of whom died in infancy, is understood to have been carved and lettered by her husband; who, about 10 years after, removed from Ayton to Redcar, to spend the evening of his days with his daughter Margaret, the wife of Mr. James Fleck, a respectable fisher- man and shopkeeper, who is still alive. $ i ! I ^ im lly ras id- nt, by ;he ;h- wo in nd ars :he •et, er- \ ' \ CHAPTER III. Modern voyaffcs of discovery, for scientific objects. — Voyage io the South Sea, for obserTingr the transit of Venus, projected. Cook appointed to conduct it, with the rank of Lieutenant. Equipment of his ship, the Endeavour. His Officers and assistants. Mr. Ranks, Dr. Solander, with other scientific gentlemen, accompany him. Arrival at Madeira, with some notice of the inhabitants. Arrival at Rio Janeiro : illiberal conductof the Viceroy of Brazil. Arrival at Strait Le Maire. Perilous excursion in Terra del Fuego : some account of the natives. Notices respecting the Strait of Le Maire, and that of Magellan. Passage round Cape Horn, and into the Pacific. Discovery of several small islands. Arrival at Otabeite. The deliberations of the Royal Society in 1767 and the beginning of 1768, seconded by the liberality of the government, produced a result highly interest- ing to our navigator, opening to his enterprising genius a new and extensive sphere where he was destined to shine. At this period, and for some years before, the British government had the honour of instituting voyages of discovery very different from those of the early navigatx)^. Expeditions of this kind were formerly set on foot for the purpose of conquest, the acquisition of territory and of wealth. But now commenced a new era in the annals of navigation, when voyages of discovery were undertaken for the interests of science ; for acquiring a knowledge of the different seas, con- tinents, and islands, on the face of our globe ; and for ameliorating the condition of the savage tribes that might be discovered. 3 I 18 1 COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. On a voyage of this description. Commodore Byron, in the Dolphin, accompanied by Captain Mouatt in the Tamer, sailed in 1764, the year after the general peace ; and having circumnavi- gated the globe, and made several interesting dis- coveries, he returned in May, 1766. About three months after his return, Capt. Wallis, in the Dol- phin, 'and Capt. Carteret, in the Swallow, were also sent out to make discoveries in the southern hemisphere. Previous to theix" return, another voy- age to the same quarter was proposed and resolved on, the chief object of which was purely scientific. It had been calculated, that a remarkable transit of Venus over the sun's disc would take place in June, 1769, which would be observed with most advantage in one of the South Sea islands ; and as an accurate observation of the transit, and a comparison of observations made in different quar- ters of the world, appeared to be of essential bene- fit to the science of astronomy, the Royal Society presented a memorial on the subject to the King ; who immediately gave orders to the Admiralty, to provide and fit out a vessel, for conveying some gentlemen skilled in astronomy to one of the islands in the southern Pacific, with a view to accomplish the object proposed. This scientific expedition, according to the plan of the Royal Society, was to have been conducted by one of their number, Alexander Dalrymple, Esq., who was eminently fit for the undertaking. But this gentleman would not consent to proceed on the voyage, unless he was appointed to the command of the vessel, with a brevet commission as Captain ; as was done in the case of Dr. Halley, in 1698. To this proposal. Sir Edward Hawke, first Lord of ■I r EQUIPMENT OF THE ENDEAVOUK. 19 the Admiralty, decidedly objected ; declaring that he would not entrust the command of the vessel to one who had not been regularly bred to the sea, and that he would rather suffer his right hand to be cut off than sign such a commission. Mr. Dal- rymple being equally inflexible, it became necessary to select another commander; and Mr. Stephens, Secretary to the Admiralty, recommended Mr. Cook, as an Officer peculiarly qualified for such a service ; and, to assure the board of the correctness of his opinion, referred them to Sir Hugh Palliser, by whom Cook's merits had long been known and appreciated. Sir Hugh warmly seconded this recommendation, being glad to have such an op- portunity of serving his friendi Mr. Cook was accordingly appointed to command the expedition, and with this view was promoted to the rank of Lieutenant, his commission being dated May 25th, 17t)8. An appointment so congenial to his inclinations, could not fail to be highly gratifying to our navi- gator ; who was further indulged in being permitted, with Sir Hugh Palliser, to select the vessel which he should command, out of many that were then lying in London river. His choice fell, as might be expected, on a Whitby vessel, the Earl Pem- broke, of 370 tons, built by the grandfather of the present Thos. Fishbum, Esq., of Whitby, and then belonging to Mr. Thos. Milner of that place. This ship was accordingly purchased, and having re- ceived a new name. The Endeavour, was taken to Deptford to be fitted out for the voyage ; was manned with a complement of 84 seamen and marines, armed with ten carriage and twelve swivel guns, and furnished with all necessary stores. t^^mm^imm 20 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. While the Endeavour was t\iim\r out in the river, an incident occurred which deserves to be recorded. A small Stockton trader gtiinj^ up the river, laden with goods, accidentally ran athwart the bow ol* the Endeavour, and occasioned some damajj^e. The master of the trader was immediately ordered on board the Endeavour, and the Lieutenant began to reprimand him for his negligence. The master replied, that he hoped he would deal kindly with an old acquaintance; at the same time making himself known to him as one who had been his school-fellow at Ayton. This mutual recognition recalled to the minds of both, the juvenile adven- tures and enjoyments in which they had shared. Looking back with pleasure on the scenes of early life. Cook not only forgave the companion of his youth, but treated him with wine and other refresh- ments, and dismissed him with additional tokens of affection and esteem. The officers appointed to serve under Lieutenant Cook, appear to have been well chosen for assisting him in his important enterprise. Mr. Hicks, hi« first Lieutenant, Mr. Gore, his second Lieutenant ; Mr. Monkhouse, the Surgeon ; Messi-s. Saunders, Monkhouse, &c., Midfehipmen ; Mr. MoUineux, the Master ; with the rest f jf the officers ; were, generally speaking, lovers of science, feeling a particular interest in the objects of the voyage. To these officers was added Mr. Charles Green, an eminent astronomer, who had long assisted Dr. Bradley in the royal observatory at Greenwich. He was ap- pointed to aid Lieut. Cook in observing the transit of Venus, and in prosecuting other objects connected with astronomy : for which purposes, they were fur- nished with the most complete apparatus, and receiv- T HIS SCIENTIFIC COMPANIONS. 81 od ample instructions from the Council of the Royal Society, on the best method of conducting their inquiries. Capt. Wallis having returned from his voyage round the world, a little before the Endea- • vour sailed, at his suggestion, the island of Ota- heite, which he had discovered and named George Island, was fixed on as the best spot for observing the transit of Venus. But there were other scientific gentlemen, whose presence and services our navigator enjoyed. He was accompanied by Joseph Banks, Esq., afterwards Sir Joseph Banks, Bart. ; who with laudable zeal devoted his time, talents, and property, to the pur- suits of science, especially in the department of natural history. This gentleman, who possessed a y considerable estate in Lincolnshire, had, after leav- ing the university of Oxford, crossed the Atlantic in 1763, to study nature on the coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador ; and the perils of t hat voyage having no way damped his enthusiasm in the prosecution of his favourite studies, he deemed it a privilege to accompany Mr. Cook in this honourable expedition. Mr. Banks, at his own expense, engaged some other men of science, to participate in the labours and pleasures of the voyage. Of these the most distin- guished was Dr. Solander, a Swedish gentleman, J an eminent naturalist, who had been a pupil of the great Linnaeus, and now had an appointment in the ), British Museum. Two artists were engaged, Mr. Buchan, and Mr. Parkinson; the former a good landscape painter, the latter skilful in the depart- ment of natural history. Mr. Banks was also attended by Mr. Sporing, his secretary ; and by four servants, two of whom were men of colour. Thus, the number of persons on board the 22 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. i I ? fl : Endeavour amounted to nearly one hundred; and among these there was more of talent and science than had ever embarked before in any one vessel. No wonder that the expedition excited a great interest in the republic of letters, not only in Britain, but in other kingdoms of Europe. Every thing being ready for the voyage, the Endeavour sailed down the river on Saturday, July 30th, and on that day fortnight anchored in Ply- mouth Sound ; and having waited there for a fair wind, finally quitted the British shores, on friday, August 26th. On the passage to Madeira, some hard gales were experienced, which occasioned the loss of a small boat and a quantity of poultry ; and in Funchiale roads, where the ship was anchored on tuesday, September 13th, Mr. Weir, the Master's Mate, was carried overboard with the anchor, and drowned. At Madeira, where they remained a week, to take in refreshments, Lieut. Cook and his officere, with the scientific gentlemen, were treated with much kindness and respect, by Mr. Cheap, the English consul. Dr. Thos. Heberden, the princi- pal physician of the island ; and by the inhabitants generally. Even the Franciscan friars, and the nuns of Santa Clara, gave them a friendly re- ception. The latter, underetanding that they were visited by a company of philosophers, took the opportunity of putting their philosophy to the test, according to their own views of it, by asking them, among other things, when it would thunder ; and, whether a spring of fresh water could be found within the walls of their cor- vent ! Our philosophers, however, employed themselves here in more ap- propriate researches; in examining the natural productions of the islapd, and making observations M\ RIO JANEIRO. 23 , on the manners and customs of the inhabitants. They had an opportunity of noticing^ in particular, with regard to the mode of preparing the celebrated Madeira wine, how pertinaciously men will adhere to the customs of their fathera, rejecting those mo- dern improvements by which an immense saving of labour and expense may be attained. Their wine-press and other apparatus seemed as rude and simple, as what might have been used in the days of Noah. Thj next place at which Mr. Cook touched for refreshments was Rio de Janeiro, where he arrived on Sunday, Nov. 13th. On the voyage thither, as well as during the run from Plymouth to Madeira, our philosophers employed themselves in examining those curious phenomena, and those olyects in natu- ral history, which came in their way. They found some new species of birds, and some new genera of small marine animals ; and ascertained, that the lu- minous appearance often presented by the sea, is to be ascribed to the presence of myriads of small ani- mals, each emitting a white light. Among these lu- minous creatures, Mr. Banks observed a new species of medusa, and three new species of small crabs. — The love of science, which is valuable to all, is of immense worth to those who go to sea. Observa- tions of nature will beguile the tedium of the long- est voyage, and make the time which would other- wise hang heavy, pass smoothly and profitably on. The liberal treatment which Lieut. Cook and his companions experienced at Madeira, had led them to expect a similar reception at Rio Janeiro ; out in such anticipations they were woefully dis?,p- pointed. A great part of the time spent here was occupied in altercations with the Viceroy, a 24 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. fli 111 very unworthy representative of the King of Por- tugal. Tyrannical, rude, and ignorant in the extreme, he could not comprehend what was meant by a scientific expedition ; and of the transit of Venus over the sun's disc, he could form no other concep- tion, than that it was " the passing of the north star through the south pole ! " To such a person, a ship manned with philosophers was an object of terror and suspicion. In his view, the noblest sci- ence consisted in knowing the value of a diamond . a topaz, or an amethyst ; and the best philosophy in procuring the greatest quantity of gold and gems. He watched the mines of Brazil with jealous care, and guarded them with sanguinary laws; laws corresponding with the cruel expense at which they were wrought, an expense of more than 40,000 lives per annum ; an annual importa- tion of negroes to that amount, being required to supply the horrid waste of human life in working the mines. rx To the scientific gentlemen it was a severe mor- tification, to be prohibited from following their favourite pursuits, in a country where every field was decked like a garden with the riches of Flora ; and where myriads of the most beautiful winged insects perched on the flowers, or fluttered in the gale; but the Viceroy sternly refused them per- mission even to land. To an understanding of his calibre, it seemed incredible, that men of their rank should wish to tread his shores, for the purpose of collecting lilies and heaths, or of hunting for bee- tles and butterflies. Their views, he presumed, were directed to other treasures than those presented by nature in every field. During their stay liere, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander got on shore only •f "f n g SBJT RIO JANEIRO. 2a \i 'A V, once or twice by stealth ; a guard-boat being sta- tioned to prevent them from passing. Even the Commander could not land, without a Brazilian officer to attend him every where as a spy; nor return on board, without an officer intruding into his boat. To these and other vexatious restrictions, our navigators were forced to submit. Indeed, when, in one instance, an attempt was made to break through the Viceroy's regulations, the pin- nace and her crew were detained by his orders, for two or three days. On this occasion, as on others of a like kind, Cook's behaviour was at once digni- fied and prudent. He sent the Viceroy a spirited remonstrance : he also wrote to the Admiralty a full account of this unfriendly treatment, with a copy of his correspondence with the Viceroy ; which he had an opportunity of forwarding by a Spanish packet from Buenos Ayres, the Comman- der of which politely offered to convfey letters to Eui;)ope. On monday, Dec. 5th, having taken in such refreshments as were judged necessary, the En- deavour weighed anchor, and began to leave this i'lhospitable shore. The Viceroy had sent the i/eutenant a polite letter, wishing him a good '- oj age ; yet, as if resolved to continue his incivility to the last, he omitted sending orders to the fort of Santa Cruz to allow the vessel to pass, so that on coming abreast of the fort, she was fired at, and was detained there two days till the necessaiy order arrived. At last our navigators got clear of the hai'bour, and of their guard-boat ; after which, Mr. Bank, got ashore on some small islands, where he procured many species of plants and insects. From Rio Janeiro, Lieut. Cook directed his 26 COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. 'i ji f course for the Strait of Le Maire; and, in run- ning along the coast of South America, the vessel, in some places, passed through myriads of land insects, some on the wing and others on the water, although the distance from the land could not then be less than thirty leagues. While the Endeavour was rapidly advancing into a high southern lati- tude, '-^ necessary to prepare for the cold and the stoi- f the antarctic regions ; the ship was furnished „ith a new suit of sails, and the men were supplied with fearnought jackets and warm trowsers. On the 11th of January, 1769, our navi- gators discovered the coast of Terra del Fuego ; and on the 14th, they entered the Strait of Le Maire. The current of the tide being against the Endeavour, in entering the Strait, she had a heavy sea to encounter off Cape St. Diego; but sustained no damage. Lieut. Cook anchored at two or three places in the Strait; and at one of them, the bay of Good Success, remained a ^^l^ole week, taking in wood and water. Mr. Bi >ks and Dr. Solander landed on different parts of the coast, to collect new species of plants and animals ; a pursuit in which they were eminently successful. One of their excursions from the bay of Good Suc- cess, in search of alpine plants upon the hills, proved fatal to two of their attendants, and brought the whole party into imminent danger. They were accompanied by the astronomer and the surgeon, the two artists, and four servants, together with two seamen ; their number being thus twelve in all. Climbing the neighbouring hill, and forcing their way through pathless woods, for several hours, they found on the other side a swamp covered with low bushes, where they expected a plain. The way 1 [ T' TERRA DEL FUEGO. ^7 through this to a rov.xy hill proved longer than they had supposed, and was excessively fatiguing. To aggravate their sufferings, the day which had been fair and pleasant, became dark and chilly, with piercing winds and keen blasts of snow. When they had got about two thirds over the woody swamp, Mr. Buchan was seized with a fit, and could proceed no further. A fire was, there- fore, kindled on the spot, and those who were most fatigued were left with him, while the rest pushed forward to the summit of the rock. Here the botanists obtained a rich variety of alpine plants ; but they soon found that this treasure was dearly purchased. The cold became more intense, the snow showers more frequent ; and the day being far spent, for it was tlA-ee o'clock when they en- tered the swamp, it was found impossible to return to the ship that evening, so that they had now the cheerless prospect of spending the night among the bleak and desert mountains, amidst all the ri- gours of winter, although it was now the midsummer of that dreary region. Sending for Mr. Buchan and those that were left with him, they proceeded in a direction that seemed more favourable for crossing the swamp, and for reaching the wood and the shore. About eight o'clock in the evening, while it was yet good day light, they all met on a hill, Mr. Buchan being now greatly recovered ; and from thence they set forward through the swamp for the nearest valley, to seek a place of shelter for the night ; Mr. Banks bringing up the rear, to see that no straggler was left behind. Dr. Solander had warned all the party against the danger of being overcome with torpor, when travel- ling through snow amidst intense cold ; repeating 28 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. ' those words, " Whoever sits down will sleep ; and whoever sleeps will wake no more." Yet they had not gone far, when the Doctor himself proved the first that felt an irresistible inclination to lie down ; and Richmond, one of the black servants, was seized with the same drowsiness. Mr. Banks sent forward five of the company, to get ready a fire in the first convenient place they could find ; while he and four others remained with the Doctor and Richmond, whom they contrived to drag on with them till they were nearly through the swamp, when they both insisted on lying down, declaring that they could go no further. As it was found impossible to carry them, they both sat down among the bushes, and instantly fell asleep. In a few minutes, however, some of the vanguard returned with the welcome news, that a fire was kindled in the wood, about a quarter of a mile further. Dr. Solander was awaked from his slum- ber, mucli benumbed ; and consented to go for- ward: but all attempts to rouse poor Richmond were fruitless ; and he was left behind, under the care of the other black servant and a seaman. The Doctor was with difficulty brought to the fire ; and after the party were a little refreshed, two were sent back ::'^ assist in bringing Richmond for- ward also. In half an hour they returned, stating that they found no person on the spot, and that no one answered to their repeated shouts. It was now discovered, that one of the absentees had a bottle of rum, the company's whole stock ; and it was concluded, that the party having awakened Richmond, and partaken too freely of the rum, had lost their way, in attempting to reach the fire themselves, instead of waiting for the assistance ■\ i TERRA DEL FUEGO. 29 liV promised them. As it snowed incessantly for two hours after, all hopes of seeing them alive were j^iven up ; but, about midnight, to the great joy of the party, a shouting was heard at some distance from the fire. Mr. Banks and four others proceeded in the direction of the sound, and found the sea- man almost exhausted. He was speedily brought to the fire, and by his direction the other two were found soon after. Richmond was still on his legs, but unable to walk ; his companion lay senseless on the ground. All hands were called from the fire, and a simultaneous eflfort was made to carry them thither ; but the task was found altogether hopeless, owing to the difficulties of the way, the darkness of the night, and the exhausted state of the party. An attempt to kindle a fire on the spot proved equally abortive, owing to the quantity of snow that had fallen, and was still falling. Mr. Banks and the party, after placing them under the shelter of some boughs of trees, were forced to leave them for the night; some more of their number, particularly Briscoe, another of Mr. Banks's servants, now be- ginning to be attacked with torpor. With much difficulty they regained the fire, from which they had been absent an hour and a half. The rest of the night was spent in misery and terror, in gloomy reflections on the fate of their companions, and dreadful anxiety respecting their own. The dawn of morning brought small relief; nothing but snow appeared on every side, and the snow blasts had scarcely abated in their frequency or their fury. About six, the clouds became less dense, and the place of the sun could be discerned through them. Three of the company were despatched as soon as possible, to look after the poor wretches who were 30 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. i ■4- left among the bushes ; and quickly returned with the melancholy, but not unexpected news, that they were dead. The snow showers still con- tinuing to fall, it was not till after eight o'clock, when indications of a thaw appeared, that the party could hope to prosecute their journey with success; especially as two of them, Briscoe and Mr. Buchan, although able to walk, were still invalids. Before setting out, they shared the only article of food which they possessed, — a vulture, which they had providentially shot during their excursion, and which, being divided into ten portions, according to their number, furnished about three mouthfuls to each. Having finished this repast, they set out about ten o'clock, much of the snow being then melted; and after a walk of about three hours, they were agreeably surprised to find themselves on the beach, and at no great distance from the ship ; their route this day being direct, whereas on the former it had been very circuitous. Their safe return on board was matter of great joy and congratulation to Lieut. Cook and their friends, as well as to themselves, much anxiety having been felt on their account, when they did not arrive the preceding evening. In some of their excursions, our naturalists met with the rude inhabitants of the country, with whom they were on friendly terms. These people appeared to hold the lowest place in the scale of civilization ; being inferior in some respects even to the CafFres of South Africa : whom they resem- bled, in having conical or bee-hive huts, rudely constructed with poles, partially covered with grass and branches; in having no other gannent but the hide of a beast, thrown over their shoulders v TERRA DEL FUEGO. 31 with that in bedaubinj^ their bodies with paint ; and in wear- ing bracelets of beads, shells, or bits of bone. They had no furniture, not even an implement to dress their food. Yet their bows and arrows were neatly formed, and the latter had barbed heads of glass or flint. They seemed to be a dull uninteresting race, possessing a very small share of curiosity or pene- tration. The most remarkable custom observed among them was, that when they were introduced to any new place, or new object, one of their num- ber shouted with all his might for some minutes. On reviewing this description of man in his savage state, it is not unprofitable to recollect, that such were once the inhabitants of our own enlight- ened country. The ancient Britons were little, if any thing, superior to the present natives of Terra del Fuego. Foundations of their conical huts, oc- casionally placed in rows like streets, have been found in considerable quantity on the Eastern Moors of Yorkshire, not far from the birthplace of our great navigator; and in the centre of each foundation, forming a hollow in the ground, remain- ders of the fires of the British savages may be dug up.* Their beads, and flint arrow-heads neatly barbed, are oft;en found in the fields; and it is well known, that they also painted their bodies, and wore rude dresses of skin. The time may arrive, when the wretched inhabitants of Terra del Fuego shall be as enlightened as those of the British isles. While the naturalists were pursuing their favou- rite studies, the Commander was chiefly employed in taking soundings, bearings, and observations, • See Young's History of Whitby and its Vicinity, Vol. II, pp. 666-681. 32 COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. P to ascertain every thing connected with tlie safe navigation of this important strait. His observa- tions, in some of which he was assisted by Mr. Green, were continued all along the shore, from the entrance of the strait as far as Cape Horn ; and the result was given in a chart of the coast, much more correct than any before published. As this chart was constructed for the benefit of future navigators, so for their guidance, Mr. Cook gives excellent instructions for passing the strait of Le Maire, and doubling Cape Horn. In this voyage too, he performed the important service of ascer- taining, that the passage into the Pacific by this channel, is much more safe and expeditious than that by the strait of Magellan. His voyage from opposite the eastern entrance of that strait round Cape Horn, and northward beyond its western ter- mination, occupied only thirty-three days ; whereas Capt. Wallis, in the Dolphin, was three months in passing through the strait, and encountered no small danger in the passage, as most navigators had done before him. The strait of Magellan, or Magalhaens, was dis- covered in 1520, by the famous navigator of that name, a native of Portugal in the service of Spain; who firet crossed the Pacific ocean, discovering in his passage the Ladrone and the Philippine islands ; and whose ship, the Victory, first circumnavigated the globe. The strait of Le Maire was discovered in January, 1616, by the Dutch navigator James Le Maire, and his comrade William Schouter; and they passed through the strait, under circum- stances nearly corresponding with those which Cook considered as essential to a safe navigation. The island on the left they named Staten Land, in STRAIT LE MAIRE. 33 safe honour of the " High and Mighty States ;" Port Maurice, on the right, one of the spots where Cook also anchored, was so called from Maurice of Nassau ; Barnevelfs Isles, beyond the strait, had their name from a Dutch gentleman of rank ; and Cape Horn was so called, in honour of the town of Horn, the native place of Schouter. In passing the strait, they encountered immense numbers of penguins and whales. In their progress to India, they fell in with some of the South Sea islands, and remarked the eagerness of the natives to obtain nails. ' Lieutenant Cook sailed from the Bay of Good Success, January 22nd, and on the 26th, took his departure from Cape Horn, steering into the Pacific Ocean for Otaheite. On Wednesday, March 1st, after a run of 660 leagues, it was found that the ship's latitude and longitude were the same by obseiTation as by the log ; a proof of the accuracy with which the navigation was conducted, and of the absence of all remarkable currents. On the 2Dth, a valuable young man, one of the marines, was lost under circumstances truly lamentable. He had taken a small piece of seal skin, belonging to a servant of the Commander ; this trivial theft, partly committed as a joke, was magnified by his comrades into a serious crime, and while he was threatened by the sergeant with exposure and pun- ishment, his mind was so overpowered with the idea of suffering disgrace, that he walked overboard. On tuesday, April 4th, our navigators saw, for the first time, one of the South Sea islands ; and were delighted with the rich appearance of its groves of cocoa and palm trees, which, when con- trasted with the dreary land of Terra del Fuego, 4 34 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. seemed a terrestrial paradise. The island havinp^ a lagoon in the middle, was named Lagoon Island. Its natives were seen on the beach, armed with long spears. On the same day, another small island was passed, which received the name Thrumcap Island ; and next day, a low island, which, from its remarkable form, was termed Bow Island. On thursday the 6th, two clusters of islets were passed, which were named the Groups. Some of the natives approached the ship in canoes, but durst not venture near enough to be taken on board. On friday, the 7th, another low island was discovered, abounding with birds, which was therefore designated Bird Island. Next day, another island was passed, or rather, a lagoo^ encircled by a chain of islets ; for which repson was called Chain Island. On monday, April 10th, they passed the island of Maitea, wWch Wal- lis discovered, and named Osnaburgh Island. On the day following, they obtained a distant view of Otaheite; and on thursday, April 13th, they cast anchor in Matavai Bay ; having been eight months and a half in making their passage from London. I CHAPTER IV. Frieridly intercourse vrith the natirea of Otaheite. Regula- iions for trading. Etcursion into the country ; its deliij^htful aspect. Visit to Tootahah, the rej^ent. A fort with an observatory erected. A native unfortunately shot, when stealing a musket. Death of Mr. Buchan. Lieut. Cook's strict regard to justice. Visit of Oberea. The quadrant stolen, but recovered. Divine service at the fort. Visits to Tootahah; thefts committed by the natives. Preparations for observing the Transit of Venus. The Tran' 'f, success- fully observed, at three different spots. The 1 ng's birth- day kept. Nails stolen by some of the ship's company* Survey of the island. Manners of the natives. Improper intercourse with them. Tupia and his boy taken on board. Departure from Otaheite. While the Endea'^our was approaching Matavai Bay, which Wc2iis named Portroyal, several canoes came off to her from the shore, filled with natives, bearing branches of trees as tokens of peace and amity ; and when these were received by the sailors, and stuck in the rigging of the ship, the natives began to trade with them, selling cocoa nuts, bread-fruit, and other products of the island, for beads and other trifles. When the ship an- chored in the bay, this friendly commerce in- creased, to the satisfaction of both parties ; and to ensure order, and prevent quarrels, the Command- er issued a set of judicious regulations, to be observed by all his people in trading with the natives. Among his officers and crew, were some who had been at Otaheite in the Dolphin ; and !t 36 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. these, particularly Messrs. Gore and Mollineux, were now of considerable seiTice, from their know- ledge, both of the place and of the people. Among the natives who came off to the ship, was an elder- ly man named O./haw, wlom they immediately recognised as an old friend, who had been very serviceable to Capt. Wallis and his crew. With this friend, the Commander, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solan- der, and a party of men under arms, went on shore ; and were received with profound respect by a number of the natives, bearing in their hands green branches of trees, as emblems of friendship. The visitors, plucking some branches from the trees, displayed the same token ; and marching on about half a mile, were conducted to the spot where the Dolphin had watered. Here the green branches were deposited, and signs were made, that the place was at the service of our navigators ; an offer which was not accepted, Matavai Bay being considered a more eligible station. The party then took a walk through delightful grovr;s of trees, laden with cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, and affording the most grateful shade. Among these trees were the simple dwellings of the natives, each consisting of a roof supporter* by wooden pillars, and generally open on all sides. The scenes thus presented to the view of our naviga- tors, in a circuit of four or five miles, were at once novel and enchanting, appearing to realise the poetical fables of Arcadia. Next day, two chiefs came on board the Endea- vour, and on their invitation, Lieut. Cook and his scientific friends embarked in two boats, and paid a vi*?it to Tootahah, now regent of that part of the island ; his nephew Outou, or Otoo, the young i OTAHEITE. 37 king, being a minor. Whappai, the father of Otoo, was alive ; but possessed neither the crown, nor the regency. Tootahah, who lived at Eparre (or Pare), about four miles to the south-west of Matavai, re- ceived them in a house of uncommon length ; where they were seated opposite to him upon mats, and a friendly interchange of presents took place. They were next introduced to another chief, Toubourai Tamaide, and Tomio his wife ; at whose house they dined on fish, bread-fruit, &c., baked among heated stones, after the Tahitian fashion. But the ban- quet was suddenly broken up; for Dr. Solander and Mr. Monkhouse had their pockets picked, the former losing an opera glass, and the latter his snuff box : and Mr. Banks, demanding redress, started up, and hastily struck the butt end of his firelock on the ground ; upon which almost all the company scampered off in great terror. Through the exertions of the chief, however, the stolen arti- cles were speedily recovered; and the party re- turned in safety to the ship. On Saturday, April 15th, Lieut. Cook began to erect a small fort on the point of land adjoining to Matavai Bay ; both to accommodate the gentle- men belonging to the expedition with lodgings on shore, and to have the astronomical instruments properly fixed, for observing the transit of Venus ; from which last circumstance, the spot has ever since been named Point Venus. To prevent inters ruption, the Commander drew a line within a cer- tain distance of the ground marked out; signifying to the natives, that none of them should cross that line, except some of their chiefs : a restriction to which they patiently submitted, sitting down on the outside of the circle, to witness what was going^ TT ■T*W^^—^WTTW»«• e the GREAT COMET. 55 comfort and safety of all our seamen, did they fol- low his example. On the 30th, the great comet of that year was observed: its tail subtended an angle of 42°. When Tupia saw it, he instantly cried out, that the people of Bolabola would kill the inhabitants of Ulietea : the sight of a comet, among the South Sea islanders, as among many other nations, being^ regarded as portending war and bloodshed. I ■ i';;r ^ Tssrr- ■I ' 1^! It i > •■ ^li 1 -^1 CHAPTER VI. Discovery of New Zealand. Landings in Poverty Bay. Hos- tile attacks of ttie natives: some of them kilted. Three boys taken on board, and kindly treated. Friendly intercourse with the natives established. Yoyaee southward to Capo Turnagain, and from thence northward, along the east coast. Various incidents during the voyage, and different places visited. Tegadoo— Tolaga — Mercury Bay — River Thames. Attack by the natives in the Bay of Islands. Transactions there. Navigation round the North Cape, and alonir the west coast to Queen Charlotte's Sound. Incidents there ; the New Zealanders found to be cannibals. Discovery of Cook's Strait, dividing New Zealand into two islands. Cir- cumnavigation of both islands completed. Memorials of Cook's discoveries left in that country. Everett's Verses, occasioned by the discovery of one of these memorials by a Missionary. I Having proceeded as far as 40° 22' S. latitude, and encountered strong gales, without any signs of land, Lieut. Cook altered his course, advancing in a westerly direction; and after observing several birds, seals, and bunches of sea-weed, which indi- cated an approach to some shore, land was at last seen from the mast-head, on the 6th of October, by Nicholas Young, a boy; aft«r whom the first head- land observed was named Young Nick's Head. Next day, the land was perceived very distinctly ; and its aspect differed greatly from that of the islands lately visited. Four or five ranges of hills appeared to rise one above another, with a chain of lofty mountains above all, having part of their NEW ZEALAND. fl7 summits covered with snow. Our navigators natu- rally supposed, that they had at last discovered the terra incognita australis, the great southern continent, so long sought for ; but it proved to be Staaten Land, or New Zealand, first seen by Tas- man, a Dutch navigator, Dec. 13, 1642, and now for the first time re-discovered. In approaching the shore, on the 7th, and 8th, the hills and valleys were perceived to be generally clothed with woods, containing some trees of an immense size ; and from the smoke that arose in various paits, the country was known to be inhab- ited. Having cast anchor in a bay, which was after- wards named Poverty Bay, the Commander, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and others, went on shore with the pinnace and yawl, at the mouth of a small river. The natives, whom they saw on the banks, fled at their approach ; but while the gentlemen were proceeding to visit some huts, four men, arm- ed with long lances, rushed out of the woods to- wards the yawl, which was left in charge of four boys. The cockswain of the pinnace, after calling to the boys to drop down the stream, fired twice over the heads of the men who were pursuing them ; but as they persisted notwithstanding in the attack, one of them was shot dead while he was in the act of lifting his spear to dart it against the boat. The other three stood motionless, as if thunder-struck; and then hastily retreated, drag- ging their dead companion for a short space. The English upon this, aft«r examining the body, re- turned on board the ship. Next day, the Commander and his friends landed again, with a strong party of seamen and marines. 1= SB s 4 58 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. I s and addressing the natives through Tupia, whose language was found to be the same as theirs, though a different dialect, endeavoured to engage them in a friendly trade. Some of them coming near, re- ceived presents of beads and nails, of which last they knew not the use. When some of them attempted to seize the arms of the British, Tupia warned them of the consequences ; yet presently after, one of them snatched away Mr. Green's han- ger, and ran off with it, waving it in triumph. Mr. Banks fired at him with small shot; upon which he retreated further, still waving the stolen weapon. Mr. Monkhouse then shot him dead, and with some difficulty secured the hanger, from other natives who ran to seize it. Some more small shot was fired, before the other warriors retired up the country. Disappointed in these attempts to establish a friendly intercourse with the natives, the Com- mander resolved, if possible, to surprise some of them, and take them on board, that by presents and kind treatment, he might gain their friendship, and by their means open a correspondence with their countrymen. Accordingly, when he had quitted the shore, he placed the three boats so as to intercept two canoes that were coming in from the sea. One of them was rapidly paddled towards the shore, and escaped ; and the seven people on board the other, boldly resolved to fight, rather than surrender ; although a musket had been fired over their heads to frighten them, and Tupia had given them assurances of safety, if they came along-side as friends. When the Commander's boat came up, they began a furious attack with paddles, stones, and other weapons ; and the Biit- ^ . NEW ZEALAND. — POVERTY BAY. dO ish firing in self defence, four were unhappily shot : the other three, who were youths, leaped into the water, but were taken. Lieut. Cook deeply regret- ted this unexpected slaughter, and acknowledged that it could not be defended on the principles of justice and humanity; as these poor creatures did not deserve death for refusing to confide in strang- ers. But in taking this step he was not aware that it would occasion such blood-shed ; and he was extremely anxious to get some of the natives in his power, to convince them, and their country- men, of his friendly intentions. The captives, when taken on board expecting nothing but death, were overjoyed to find them- selves treated with kindness. They were clothed and fed; and Tupia took great pains to comfort and cheer them. In the evening, they so far re- covered their spirits, as to sing one of their songs : the air was solemn, like a Psalm tune, and per- formed with considerable taste and skill. Next morning, they were dressed, and adorned with bracelets, anclets, and necklaces; and were de- lighted to learn that they were to be set on shore : but when the boat made for the landing place near the river, they intreated that they might not be set ashore there, as the inhabitants were their enemies who would kill and eat them ; and they pointed to another part of the bay as their own home. It was necessary, however, to land near the river, as a party had gone thither to cut wood : but when a large body of the natives came down towards the beach, the boys suddenly quitted the bushes to which they had retired, and claimed the protection of their English friends. When the latter were about to reimbark, lest a new quarrel, and further w^ 60 COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. m m i I lit I '^\ m bloodshed, should take place ; the youngest of the boys espied his uncle among the natives, and beg- ged his protectors to stay and talk with them. The river being between the parties, a parley com- menced by means of Tupia. The three boys shewed their countrymen the ornaments which they had received ; and then going to the body of the man who was killed the day before, lying near them on the beach, they covered it with a part of the clothes that had been given them. Upon this, the boy's uncle swam across, bringing a green branch, which was received by the hands of Tupia ; and many presents were giv him in return. He declined an invitation to go o board the ship, and was left on the beach ; where, having pulled ano- ther green branch, he laid it on the dead body, with much ceremony : and the body was after- wards carried off by the natives on a kind of bier. All this being considered as a ratification of peace, the boys, who had preferred embarking with their new friends, consented after dinner to be put ashore ; and although, on being landed, they still shewed a reluctance to part with the English, they were afterwards observed among the natives un- hurt; and were seen to come down and wave their hands three times towards the ship, after which they retired with several companions in the direc- tion of their home. Next day, four men came on board from a canoe, and afterwards many others; all of whom were treated with presents, while some also engaged in trade, selling their clothes, paddles, and weapons, for articles on board. They stated, that the three boys were safe at home, and that they themselves had been encouraged to come on board, by hearing NEW ZEALAND. 61 \f of the kind treatment which the boys had received. They invited the Commander to return into the bay, which he was now leaving ; but he chose ra- ther to proceed southward along the coast, in quest of a better harbour, and to make further researches. When the canoes departed, three men were acci- dentally left behind; and they were so far from feeling uneasy, that they entertained the ship's company with dancing and singing. Next morn- ing, however, they were in great consternation, and uttered loud wailings, with many tears, when they found that the ship had carried them so far from home. But two canoes having approached, they invited the people to come alongside and receive them, assuring their countrymen, that the strangers in the ship did not eat men. In one of the canoes was a chief, who came on board, handsomely dres- sed, and having a patoo-patoo, a short wejipon like a battledoor, made of bone, instead of the usual material, green talc, or jade. The three men went away with him, to the satisfaction of all parties. * In coasting along, our navigators observed several patches of cultivated ground ; and saw also some fortified towns, inclosed with high rails, situated on detached rocks, or other strong positions. The natives, at different points, came off in canoes ; but generally kept at a distance. On the 14th, five large canoes, with 80 or 90 aimed men on board, approached the ship, and began to sing their war song, and brandish their spears for action. Tupia infoiined them, that there were weapons on board, which would, like thunder, destroy them in a mo- ment, if they persisted in any hostile attempt; and a shot being then fired wide of them, they were so alarmed at the flash, the report, and the sight of 62 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. '1 i! * I i i:i M^ I Ml the pfrape-shot spreading far in the water, that they paddled off in great terror. Tupia called to them to come unarmed, and they would be kindly treated; and the people of one canoe, leaving their arms in another, accepted the invitation, and received some presents. Next day, several canoes came off, and sold fish and other articles ; but when Tayeto, Tupia's boy, was over the ship's side, among others, handing up what was bought, one of the New Zealanders suddenly seized him, and dragged him down into the canoe, where two men held him, while the rest plied their paddles vigorously, the other canoes following with all speed. The marines being order- ed to fire into the canoe, one man dropped, and the rest quitting their hold of Tayeto, he leaped into the sea, and swam towards the ship ; and some muskets and a great gun being fired at the canoe which turned to pursue him, he escaped on board. After recovering from his fright, the little boy brought a fish to Tupia, as an oflfering to his Eatua, or god, in gratitude for his preservation ; and Tupia, commending his piety, directed him to throw it into the sea. It were well if all seamen, on obtaining signal deliverances, shewed equal gratitude to the true and living God. — Some of the gentlemen, who looked after the canoes with their glasses, saw three men carried up the beach from them, either dead or severely wounded. The cape where this unhappy event occurred, was named Cape Kidnappers. Having proceeded along the coast as far as 40° 34', S. latitude, the Commander, on tuesday, Oct. 18th, seeing no appearance of a good harbour, and the aspect of the country growing manifestly worse, turned back to examine the more northerly parts /! NEW ZEALAND. — TEGADOO. 68 of the coast; giving the name Cape Tumagain to the last point of land then observed. On Wed- nesday, two chiefs came on board from a canoe, and being very kindly treated, as they had heard others had been, resolved to stay all night in the ship, together with their servants; their canoe being hoisted on deck. Next morning, when they took their departure, they were surprised to find them- selves so far from home. On the 20th, the Endeavour anchored in a bay called Tegadoo, to the north of Poverty Bay ; and during two days spent there, the natives shewed much friendship, and traded honestly with fish and sweet potatoes. Plantations of the latter, and of coccos and gourds, inclosed with fences of reeds, were visited by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. The natives lived chiefly on fish, with fern roots for bread. They had no animals but dogs, which, like the Tahitians, they used for food. The men, at least the chiefs, had their faces, as well as various parts of their bodies, tattooed, in spiral lines. The faces of the women, and of some of the men, were besmeared with a mixture of red ocre and oil, which was transferred to the noses of such as saluted them. The natives of both sexes were generally dressed in cloth made of the New Zealand flax, sometimes ornamented with pieces of the skins of dogs or of seals. They were more fierce than the Tahitians, but did not disgrace themselves by the same lasci- viousness, and appeared remarkably vigorous and healthy* It was noticed as a token of their clean- liness, that every cluster of houses had a temple of Cloacina. In the afternoon of the 21st, while the boats were employed in getting water, Mr. Banks and his party, who were very successful in collecting r <' I, 64 COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. i . ■ r ill! I, ' ' ■ J • > i;t plants and rare birds, engaged a canoe to take them on board. In their first embarkation, they ovei*set their frail barge in the surf, but eventually they all reached the ship in safety. On the 22nd, Lieut. Cook removed into another bay called Tolaga, a little to the southward ; which was pointed out by the natives as more convenient for his purpose. Here the Endeavour anchored for a whole week, taking in copious supplies of water, wood, and excellent celery. The armourer's forge was set up, to repair the iron work ; a friendly trade was carried on with the natives ; their houses, fortresses, and canoes were examined ; one of the latter being very large, measuring 68 ft. in length ; their military exercises were exhibited, and their hideous- war-song chanted. The plants, and natural curiosities of the place, were also carefully observed; pa]i**^^*cularly some singular perforated rocks. On monday, Oct. 30th, our navigators proceeded on their voyaged In their progress northward, for some days, several canoes, full of armed men, came off at different fK)ints, and threatened an attack ; but the firing of a shot or two quickly dispersed them. The country appeared more populous, as they proceeded; and the number and size of the ca ioesj that came off, increased. On Saturday, Nov. 4ih, the Endeavour anchored in a bay that was named Mercury Bay, from the observation of the transit of Mercury there, on thureday the 9th. During ten days spent here, good supplies of mackerel and other fish were obtained ; partly by hauling the seine, but chiefiy by purchase. Oys- ters and other shell-fish were also plentiful; and wild fowl, particularly shags and ducks. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander made great additions to •f NEW ZEALAND. — MERCURY BAY. 65 their collections of plants. The intercourse with the natives was for the most part friendly ; oppor- tunities were enjoyed of seeing their strong-holds, and witnessing an exhibition of their mode of at- tack and defence. On the 9th, however, while Lieut. Gore had the charge of the sbip, a man who / 1 sold him an article of native dress r<>r a piece of British cloth, paddled off with the cloth without delivering the article ; a species of fraud which had been successfully practised by several of the na- tives : and Mr. Gore was so provoked by the inso- lent Hiiiuner in which the fellow held up the cloth, I and bid him defiance, that he shot him dead. The Commander regretted,, that the effect of small shot had not been tried in this instance, as it had suc- ceeded in others. Yet the natives made no at- tempt to revenge his death, regarding it as the just punishment of his crime. After taking formal possession of the country in the name of His Majesty, our navigators sailed from Mercury Bay, on Wednesday, Nov. 15th, and proceeded along the coast. An old chief, called Toiava, was very useful to them while in the bay ; and his name was of service to them on other paits of the coast. The services of Tupia also continued to be very efficient : he remonstrated very eloquently with those natives who, from time to time, ap- proached the ship with hostile intentions. On the 18th and 19th, a large river was discovered, which from its resemblance to London river, was de- nominated the Thames. Here the vessel remained a few days, while observations were making on the coast, and up the river; on the banks of which were some trees of immense size, one of them mea- suring about 20 ft. in girth, and 89 ft. from the root 6 :H if'i : * ( I t 66 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. to the first branch. The natives were very friendly : they knew Toiava, and had heard of Tupia, whom they addressed by name. They traded fairly, and for the most part behaved well : but on the 22nd, a young man who was on deck, being detected in stealing a minute glass, was punished with twelve lashes, by order of Lieut. Hicks, then in command. This gave great offence to the natives, and they entirely desei'ted the ship. On the 24th, the Endeavour sailed from the river Thames, proceeding to the west and north, accord- ing to the direction of the coast. The natives came off in canoes, at various points ; and some- times gave annoyance by hostile demonstrations, or by dishonesty in trading ; so that it was necessary, in some instances, to frighten them with fire arms, as well as to employ Tupia's remonstrances. But nothing serious occurred till Wednesday the 29th, when the ship was at anchor in a bay among many islands, from which the place was named the Bay of Islands. The Commander, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went with the pinnace and yawl, manned and aimed, to an island near the ship. When they were on shore in a cove, the natives who had been visiting the vessel in many canoes, landed on the island also, and crowded around the cove, lO the number of two or three hundred. After remaining quiet for a time, a party of them ran to each boat, to draw it on shore, while the rest began to press in upon Mr. Cook and his friends. Upon this, he and Mr. Banks, with two men, fired on them with small shot ; which made them retreat in confusion. One of their chiefs tried to rally them, rushing forward with his patoo-patoo ; but on the discharge of Dr. i NEW ZEALAND. — BAY OF ISLANDS. 67 dendly : L, whom rly, and le 22nd, jcted in I twelve mmand. ,nd they the river , accord- 5 natives ad some- Eitions, or ecessary, [ire arms, es. But the 29th, ing many the Bay .d by Mr. ; pinnace [and near , cove, the in many crowded 3 or three X time, a raw it on upon Mr. and Mr. Vila small sion. One ig forward irge of Dr. Solander's piece, this champion ran off with the rest ; and a few shots being soon after tired from the ship over their heads, they were wholly dis- persed. " In this skirmish," says Capt. Cook, " only two of the Indians were hurt with the small shot, and not a single life was lost ; which would not have been the case, if I had not restrained the men ; who, either from fear, or the love of mischief, shewed as much impatience to destroy them, as a sportsman to kill his game." This was not the only instance, in which the humanity and prudence of our great navigator saved many lives. Having gathered some celery in the cove, the Commander and his friends proceeded to examine a cave in the rocks, when an old chief came forth, with his wife and brother, and in a suppliant tone begged for protection. They spake kindly to him, and made him some presents; and when he ex- pressed great solicitude for another brother who had been wounded, they assured him that he would recover. From the top of a hill, in the same is- land, they enjoyed an extensive view of the bay, which was uncommonly romantic and interesting ; being filled with innumerable islands, forming as many harbours, where the water was as smooth as a mill-pond. Numerous towns, horses, and planta- tions were also in sight, the coantry being more populous than any part of the coast hitherto visit- ed. Friendly intercourse, and fair trade, were car- ried on with numbers of the inhabitants, during some days, while the ship was detained here by calms and contrary winds. As some of the natives had been punished for theft, so it was necessary at this place to punish three of the ship's crew, who had broken into a plantation, and dug up some '■^BP f 68 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. I i I > M h^ f potatoes ; for the Commander resolved to dispense equal justice to New Zealanders and Britons. The Bay of Islands, then for the first time visited by Europeans, has since been the scene of many interesting transactions. Of late yeara, it has been distinguished as the principal seat of Christianity in New Zealand. Here the first sermon in that country was preached, in 1814, by the Rev. S. Marsden, A.M., senior Chaplain in New South Wales ; and through his zealous exertions, and the faithful and persevering labours of the Ministers and Catechists employed by the Church Mission- ary Society, much progress has been made in christianizing and civilizing the rude inhabitants. In quitting the Bay of Islands, on tuesday, Dec. 5th, the Endeavour was in great danger of driving ashore, being within a cable length of the breakers ; and after escaping this danger, she actually struck on a rock, but providentially went off without re- ceiving the slightest damage. Encountering stonny weather in his progress along the coast. Lieutenant Cook did not reach the North Cape till the 17th: and after standing off and on for about a week at the northern extremity of the country, the land first seen by Tasman, he proceeded southward, along the west coast ; where the country, in many places, appeared desolate and barren. On monday, Jan. 15th, 1770, the Endeavour, afler much sailing, was brought to an anchor in a cove on the N. W. side of a spacious bay, whicli was named Queen Charlotte's Sound; iwul re- mained there thret* woeks. Here wood and >*ater were had in abundance, with a copious supply of excellent fish ; tho jirmourer's forgo was set up, for repairs; and the vessel was careened. Mr. Banks il: I NEW ZEALAND. — Q. CHARLOTTE'S SOUND. 6J) spense IS. visited many LS been tianity in that lev. S. South md the inisters [ission- ade in itants. y, Dec. driving ■eiikei"s ; iT struck lout re- stormy utenant e 17th: iveek at \\e land thward, n many leavour, lor in a [, which ivnti re- id >*ater ipply of t up, for r. Banks and Dr. Solander enjoyed themselves in botaniz- • ing, and the Commander in surveying the adjacent coasts. In this task he engaged with his wonted diligence and zeal, searching every bay and cove, examining every island and rock, and ascending the hills in different places, to take the general bearings of the land, and make remarks on the grand features of the country. In the mean time, our navigators had much fair trade and friendly intercourse with the natives ; which nothing occur- red to interrupt, except that, on January 21st, which, being Sunday, was very improperly given to the crew as a. holiday, to spend in amusement, one of the officers approaching a heppah, or village, with a boat, and seeing some New Zealandera coming in canoes to visit him, imagined that their intentions were hostile, and firing three muskets, wounded some of them. Among those who visited the ship, was an old man named Topaa, who was particularly friendly and serviceable. Through him, as well as by other moans, indubitable proof was obtained, that the New Zealanders Ha© found a secret out, which birds or beasts, M«st cruel, cunning, treacherous, never knew, — The luxury of devouring one another. I wsffi their practice to roast and eat the bodies of their enemies slaim in battle. Seven men had lately been devoured by the people near the cove ; some, of their bones were seen and examined, the nat^/es acknowledged having eaten the flesh, and one of them gnawing a bone, and drawing it through his mouth, made blgns that it had afforded >r ■■^■■i I 70 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. a delicious repast. The heads of the slain men were not eaten, except the brains ; but were cured and preserved as trophies. Four of them were brought on board by Topaa, and Mr. Banks pur- chased one as a curiosity, while others procured specimens of the bones. This was the commence- ment of a traffic which has since been carried on so extensively, that almost every Museum in Britain contains a New Zealand chiefs head. Three specimens, finely tattooed, are in the Whit- by Museum. During their stay in Queen Charlotte's Sound, the ship's company had abundant supplies of fish, celery, and other refreshments; and early every morning, were gratified with the wild melody of myriads of birds, which sounded like small bells exquisitely tuned. On tuesday, Februaiy 6th, the Endeavour left Queen Charlotte's Sound, and after escaping im- minent danger, in clearing some rocks, where thci tide formed a rapid current, proceeded in a S. E. direction, to the entrance of a strait, whicli had been seen by the Commander from the tops of the mountains, and was found to divide New Zealand into two large islands. Through this strait, hence- forth called Cook's Strait, our navigators passed ; and the Commander then sailed in a N. E. direc- tion, till he was in sight of Cape Turnagain, which had been observed in coasting southward on the other side of the island ; and thus he convinced all on board, that they had circumnavigated an island, of which some of his officers had previously ex- pressed a doubt. Altering his course to the southward, liieut Cook circumnavigated also the whole of the south- NEW ZEALAND. 71 em division of New Zealand, doubling the South Cape, and returning northward along the west coast, till he reached the vicinity of Queen Char- lotte's Sound. In making this circuit, which prov- ed that this country was no part of the expected southern continent, all the skill and vigilance of our great navigator were required, to shun tlie dangers arising from numerous rocks and shoals on the coast, and encounter the difficulties occa- sioned by unfavourable winds, and boisterous wea- ther. In this circumnavigation, he sometimes gave way to the opinion of the officers on board, sailing in a direction where l.hey thought they saw land, while he was sure there was none : but when many advised him to enter a cove or harbour on the west side of the island, he decidedly refused, perceiving from the steep and lofty rocks which formed the entrance, that the wind there must either blow light out, or right in; and that although they might then easily enter, it might be a month be- fore they could get a v/ind to bring them out. Several islands were discovered towards the South Cape, to one of which was given the name Banh, while another was called Solander. The whole country of New Zealand was found to lie between 34 and 48° of S. latitude, and between 181 and 194° of W. longitude. The southern division was more barren, and more thinly inhabit- ed, than the northern; and a good part of the in- terior was then covered with snow. On the 27th of March, the Endeavour entered a bay, which was named Admiralty Bay, about ten leagues N.W. of Queen Charlotte's Sound ; and having taken in a supply of wood and water, was ready to sail on the 31st. ~ ' ^muL-^^ 72 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. In his intercourse with the natives, Lieut. Cook discovered, that the New Zealanders were divided into several independent tribes, or states. Along a great part of the east coast, the inhabitants ac- knowledged a chief called Teratu for their king ; but his authority did not extend to the Bay of Islands, nor to Queen Charlotte's Sound ; nor was the one of these places dependant on the other. To preclude the claims or pretensions of future navigators. Cook was careful to leave, in various parts of New Zealand, memorials of his discovery. In Mercury Bay, the name of the ship, and that of the Commander, with the date, were cut on one of the trees near the watering place ; while the British flag was displayed, and the country for- mally taken possession of, in the name of King George III. The same ceremony was observed at Queen Charlotte's Sound ; where also two posts, with the names and dates as before, were set up, one near the watering place, and the other on the highest part of the adjacent island of Motuara, At this last, a bottle of wine was drunk to the health of her Majesty ; and the empty bottle, with other articles, joyfully received by the old chief, Topaa. On the main land, two small pyramids of stone were erected on two different hills; and balls, beads, coins, and other European articles deposited in them. Yet these were not the only memorials left in New Zealand, to record the visit of our illustrious navigator : another was observed about seventeen years ago, by the Rev. Samuel Leigh, under circumstances particularly interesting. This gen- tleman, connected with the Wesleyan Mission- ary Society, who commenced a Mission in New Ti EVERETT 8 VERSES. 73 Zealand in 1822, paid a previous visit to the Bay of Islands, and other places in the northern part of that country, in 1818; and in one of his walks near the shore, he was delighted to meet the name COOK inscribed on a rock. When Mr. Leigh, on his return to England, related the circumstance, the recital produced the following beautiful verses from the pen of his friend, the Rev. James Everett, now of Newcastle, which he has entitled THE MISSIONARY AND THE MARINER. As once around the Hebrew sage. Sole monarch of their den. The lions, crouching, still'd their rage. Till then unawed by men ; So Leigh, upon New Zealand's shore. Calm and intrepid stood, 'Midst cannibals, untamed before. And hot from scenes of blood ; For angels — answers to his prayer, — And God, — even Daniel's God, — were there. No Briton's foot to guide was found. No British voice to cheer ; Each face was strange, as strange the sound That fell upon his ear : But, while he mused along the strand, — Upon a rock sublime He traced the carvings of some hand. Left legible by time : When forth with quicken'd step he flew, — A known inscription met his view. II f 74 cook's first voyage. 'Twas not the hand that once appear'd. Appalling Babel's King ; 'Twas not the language to be fear'd. When death is on the wing ; But to the Briton, doom'd to roam, A hand stretch'd o'er the seas. Language that rapt his spirit home, LUce music on the breeze ; The name of Cook that mountain bore. The date when first he trod the shore. The bold adventurer seem'd to rise In vision to his sight. And with a voice as from the skies, Inspir'd him with delight: — ** An ocean-ranger was my lot, « With Britain's flag unfurl'd, " The guide to many a desert spot, " While sailing round the world : " 'Tis yours to preach, — your Lord display, " And Baptist-like, prepare his way." iim. i No tvritten words, from Nature's birth. In Zealand could be shewn. Till Britons, grasping sea and earth. Engraved them deep in stone ; And in that language, deeper still. And brighter far shall shine Celestial Truth, — Jehovah's will. In characters divine. And letters first on granite spread. Till Nature's exit shall be read. EVERETT S VERSES. These "stones cry out" in Britain's praise, Far o'er the ocean's wave ; The mariners their voices raise, Though slumbering in the grave : The name of Cook, — and but the name, His eulogy contains ; 'Tis like the hallowed trump of Fame, O'er mountains, seas, and plains ; And rocks, uprear'd by Nature's hand, , His monumental piles shall stand. 75 And Leigh, thy name like his shall live, — Survive the lightning's shock, Though Time should his erasure give Those carvings of the rock ; The word of God shall be proclaim'd. And David's harp be strung. The human savage sweetly tam'd. And converts, old and young, As " living stone;- shall build sublime Thy monument ol ^ aise through time. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ ^/ /- l/.. U.. ^ & 1.0 ■50 ""^^ iina^ S?^ IS I.I llllfl 1.25 1 ^ 1 1 {{1.4 III 1^ 1.6 m > In the mean time, the refreshments which the place afforded, had a happy effect on the health of the ship's company. Some useful vegetables were discovered by Mr. Banks ; particularly Indian kale, cabbage palms, a species of beans, and plenty of purslain; all which were liberally used. Good supplies of fish were also procured, and quantities of valuable shell-fish, among which was a veiy large kind of cockle. During the last month of their stay, several excellent green turtle were taken, which afforded the ship's company many delicious meals. In these refreshments, not excepting the turtle, all on board had an equal share ; the mean- est seaman having the same fare as the Commander. This plan of distribution was admirably calculated to .:ncourage the men, amidst the dangers and pri- vations of such a voyage. They could not object to share with their officers in every hardship, as they were admitted to partake with them iii every luxury. Pigeons of various sorts, with some beautiful I m 90 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. cockatoos, loriquets, and parrots, were found here. That singular animal, the kangaroo, now well known as peculiar to New Holland, was also discovered. It resembles the jerboa, in being formed for leaping, rather than running ; the hind legs being remarka- bly long, and the fore legs very short. Two of them were killed and eaten, and one of them furnished a rich repast. Other new and singular animal» were occasionally observed. One day a seaman, who had been rambling in the woods, returned and told that he had seen the devil. "He was," said Jack, " as large as a one gallon keg, and very like }} it ; he had horns and wings, yet he crept so slowly through the grass, that if I had not been afeard, I might have touched him ! " This formidable ap- parition turned out to be a very large species of bat; which certainly had a frightful appearance, although it had no horns. Mr. Banks, in one of his numerous trips into the country, had the good fortune to take an anipial of the opossum tribe, a female, with two young ones. On friday, July 6th, he sailed some leagues up the river in a boat, ac- companied by Lieut. Gore and three men; and spent the day in examining the country, and its various productions. In the evening they lodged on the banks of the river ; but were so annoyed with musquitos, that they could not sleep. Next day, they traversed the country in various directions, and proceeded further up the river, which was soon contracted into a fresh water brook. In the evening, they found a fire burning, which some ot the natives had recently left, and saw near it a number of huts, and some ovens dug in the ground, like those of Otaheite. Notwithstanding their near neighbourhood to the savages, the party laid ••* ENDEAVOUR RIVER. 91 id here. known :overed. eaping, ;mai'ka- of them mished animals seaman, led and IS," said ery like ) slowly feardy I ible ap- ecies of jarance, 1 one of he good tribe, a Illy 6th, )oat, ac- m; and and its ' lodged '^ed with 3xt day, ■ections, ich was In the some of ear it a ground, eir near ty laid themselves down, and slept soundly on a bed of plantain leaves, spread on a sand bank, with their cloaks for bed clothes, and bunches of grass for pillows! They returned safely in the morning, down the river, favoured by the ebbing tide. Such of the natives as had been seen, having hitherto fled when our people approached them, the Commander resolved to try what could be done by appearing to take no notice of them. This scheme succeeded so well, that when four natives made their appearance on the 10th, two of them ap- proached the ship in a canoe ; and at length, invited by friendly signs, came alongside. Presents of cloth, nails, beads, and paper, were received by them with indifference, as they knew not their use ; but when a small fish was thrown them, they expressed the greatest joy imaginable, and paddled off to bring their companions, with whom they quickly returned. Some more presents were given them, and they all landed, and were prevailed on to lay aside their lances, and sit down beside Tupia and his friends. They continued here until dinner time, but declined an invitation to dinner. Next morning, three of them returned, bringing with them another, whom they introduced by his name, Yaparico. This man not only had his ears pierced, but a piece of bird's bone thrust through the carti- lage that divides the nostrils, and projecting about three inches on each side. This grotesque orna- ment of the natives, the sailors jocularly called their sprit-sail yard. The rest also had holes in their ears, as well as in the cartilage of the nose ; but at this time the holes were empty. They also wore bracelets of plaited hair on their arms ; and some were afterwards seen with necklaces of shells. ¥ ) .'I % 92 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. With this love of ornament, they had no idea of wearing clothes; and one of them, to whom part of an old shirt was given, instead of using it to cover his body, tied it as a fillet round his head. At this visit, they brought with them a fish, apparently in return for the one given them the day before. The natives paid several other visits to the ship ; but nothing remarkable occurred till the 19th, when no less than ten men came on board. Twelve tur- tles were lying on deck, and the natives signified that they wanted one ; and by looks and gestures, expressed great disappointment and anger when it was refused. Some biscuit was offered one of them ; but he snatched it, and threw it overboard in dis- dain. One of them again applied to Mr. Banks for a turtle, and on being refused, stamped with his foot, and pushed him away in a rage. Repulsed in their successive applications to every officer on deck, they suddenly seized two turtles, and began to drag them towards their canoe ; and when they were taken from them and replaced, they repeated the seizure again and again. Baffled in all their attempts, they at last leaped into their canoe in great indignation, and paddled towards the shore. The Commander, with Mr. Banks and five or six men, getting into a boat, arrived before them, at a place where several seamen were variously employed. As soon as the natives landed, they seized their anns, and before any one was aware of their design, they snatched a firebrand from un- der the pitch kettle, and making a circuit to the windward of the few things then on shore, set fire to the grass in their way with surprising dexterity ; and the grass being tali and dry, blazed with great fury, burnt the wood work at the smith's forge. ENDEAVOUR RIVER. 93 idea of n part of to cover At this rently in )re. he ship ; th, when elve tur- signified gestures, when it of them; d in dis- lanks for with his lepulsed fficer on d began hen they repeated [ in all ;ir canoe irds the and five ►re them, variously ed, they is aware Tom un- t to the , set fire sxterity ; 1th great 's forge. m and would have consumed a tent belonging to Mr. Banks, had he not quickly brought some people from the ship to save it. Not satisfied with this revenge, the infuriated savages set fire to the grass, at another spot where a quantity of nets and linen were laid out to dry ; but a musket, loaded with small shot, being fired at one of them, they took to flight, and the fire there was extinguished; but where first kindled, it spread far into the woods. The Indians being still in sight, a musket ball was fired among some mangroves near them, upon which they speedily retreated. Some time after, their voices were heard in the woods, and as they seemed to draw near, the Commander, with Mr. Banks and a few more, went to meet them. When the parties came in sight, the savages halted ; an old man came to meet the English, and after utter- ing some unintelligible words, went back to his companions, who then slowly retreated. The Com- mander's party seized some of their dails, and fol- lowed them about a mile ; both parties then halted, and the old man again approached, carrying a pointless spear, and performing various ceremonies; when, signs of peace being made in return, he called out aloud to his companions, who having set up their lances against a tree, came forward as friends. The spears that had been taken from them were now returned, and the reconciliation was thus completed. Some presents were given them, and they walked back with the Commander and his friends to the ship, making signs by the way, that they would not burn the grass any more. Tliey remained about two hou'-s near the ship, but would not go on board. A few days after, a man who had strayed from a party collecting Indian r ) T 94 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. ,i':r. kale, fell in with four natives broiling a bird and part of a kangaroo at a fire. The man, who was unaimed, had the presence of mind to dissemble his fears, and sat down beside them in apparent good humour. They examined his clothes, hands, and face ; but treated him with great civility, and afterwards directed him on his way to the ship. Little could be made of the language of these peo- ple; but they were wont to express surprise, by exclaiming, chercau, or cher, tut, tut, tut, tut ! Aft«r much time spen^ in selecting the best channel, and waiting for a fair wind, our navi- gators, on Saturday, August 4th, sailed from the harbour that had so long sheltered them, and which they called Endeavour River. They might have named it Mercy River, in commemoration of their merciful deliverance, and the many mercies here experienced. The journal of the voyage records, that on July 1st, being Sunday, the men had liberty to go on shore. That day should have been ob- served as a day of thanksgiving for their almost miraculous preservation; and doubtless many of them must have been sensible of the special pro- tection which they had enjoyed, and their deep obligations to a merciful Providence. 1 CHAPTER VIII. Difficulties experienced in prosecutinjjr the Toyage northward. The Endeavour quits the coa«t, and passes through the bar- rier reef into the main sea. Imminent danger of driving against the barrier reef; escape through Providential Chan- nel, and return towards the Coast. Completion of the arduous task of exploring the East Coast of New Holland, or New South Wales. Landing on Possession Island. Yoy. age through Endeavour Straits towards New Guinea. Hos- tile behaviour of the Inhabitants of New Guinea. Landing at the Island of Savu. Friendly intercourse with the King, and the Dutch Resident. Refreshments procured. Arrival at Batavia. Repairs of the ship. Prevailing sickness of the ship's company. Death of the Surgeon, of Tayeto, Tupia, and four others. Departure from Batavia. Landing at Prince's Island : supplies procured. Dreadful sickness and mortality on the passage to the Cape of Good Hope. Loss of Mr. Sporing, Mr. Parkinson, Mr. Green, Mr. Monkhouse, and nineteen others. Arrival at the Cape ; and stay there. Departure from the Cape. Death of Mr. Mollineaux. Ar- rival at St. Helena, ana voyage thence to England. Death of Lieutenant Hicks. Arrival at Deal. ssJ ■r-5V'. . t>t'^j^:.:''/irt' After moving slowly to the northward for a week, through a labyrinth of shoals, rocks, and islands, the Commander ascending a high island, to look out for the best passage, perceived an outer reef, stretching along the coast, several leagues from the shore, with some openings through it into the main sea. On this island, which from the lizards seen there was called Lizard Island, he spent the even- ing of the 11th, with Mr. Banks and others; and next day they touched at another island, which they named Eagle Island, having found there an A 96 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. ■i " S:t eagle's nest with young ones, and seen also an enonnous nest, built with sticks on the ground, twenty-six feet in circumference, and two feet eight inches high. In the mean time, the Master, who was employed in searching for an inshore passage, had spent the night on another island. When the parties met on board, it was resolved, that it was better to go out into the open sea, than continue a • mgerous course amidst rocks and shoals, amongst which they had been entangled for almost three months, and had sailed 300 leagues, without once having a man out of the chains heaving the lead ! Accordingly, on monday, the 13th, they passed through a channel in the great reef, now known by the name of the barrier reef of New Holland, and just beyond it they had no ground with 150 fathoms. AH on board expressed their joy at be- ing once more on the open sea; although their joy was somewhat damped by obsemng the leaky state of their vessel, which seemed ill able to con- tend with the mighty billows, now dashing against her. Having sailed three days to the northward, they found themselves, on the 16th, in imminent danger of driving against the great coral reef, over which the waves were beating with tremendous fury ; and although the boats were got out ahead to tow the ship, she was carried within 100 yards of the reef, before her progress was arrested. Even then, de- struction would have been inevitable, had not a light breeze sprung up in their favour, just at this crisis of their fate. During another calm, the waves were carrying them rapidly towards the breakers; when the same light breeze providen- tially returned for their preservation. Soon after. ^H' ' 11 PROVIDENTIAL CHANNEL. 97 also an ground, set eight ter, who passage, '^hen the it it was ntinue a amongst )st three out once he lead ! r passed 7 known Holland, with 150 )y at be- their joy le leaky e to con- against ird, they it danger er which ury; and ) tow the the reef, then, de- ad not a st at this aim, the ards the 3roviden- on after. they discovered an opening in the reef, through which the Commander resolved, if possible, to carry the ship; but after reaching it with some difficulty, the ebb tide, rushing out of the opening like a mill stream, carried them out to sea for a quarter of a mile, thus placing them in safety for a time, though in the opposite direction. Being still embayed in the reef, the tide of flood soon returning, drove them again into the bight, and they must have forthwith despaired of relief, had not another opening providentially appeared, on reaching which, they were hurried through by the tide with amazing rapidity, and soon found them- selves in safety. Thus they escaped the danger which proved fatal to the Pandora twenty yeare after ; and with becoming gratitude, Lieut. Cook named this opening Providential Channel. The mind of man, like human life, is subject to strange vicissitudes : all on board thought them- selves happy in regaining a situation, which only three days ago they were so glad to quit. There were no new capes or bays to be seen in the main sea ; and the enthusiasm attending a first discoveiy, made them cheerfully brave every danger, rather than leave unexplored the interesting country which they had the honour to discover. In again prosecuting their voyage to the north- ward, they proceeded with great caution, as before ; carefully marking, as they advanced, the grand features of the coast. At length, to their no small joy, they reached the north point of New Holland, called Carpentaria, on tuesday, August 2 1st, hav- ing thus completed an achievement unparalleled in the annals of navigation. No where was the nautical skill of Capt. Cook displayed to greater 8 98 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. ;, (,. U I advantage. He had explored this new and dan- gerous coast from 38° to 10i° S. latitude, being nearly 2000 miles, when reduced to a straight line ; and in the greater part of that space, the ship had to thread her way through a labyrinth of shoals., rocks, and islands ; often approaching to frightful coral reefs, rising abruptly like a wall. In addition to the pleasure of accomplishing this arduous task, the Commander had now the satisfaction of ascer- taining, that New Guinea forms no part of New Holland. At this memorable point of his progress, the Commander, with his friends Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, landed on an island, and climbed a hill, to get a better view of the direction of the coast. Here he hoisted the British colours, and formally took possession of the whole east coast of New Holland, for his Majesty King George III, by the name of New South Wales. Three volleys of small arms were fired, which were answered by the same number from the ship ; and in commemora- tion of this ceremony the island was called Pos- session Island. The straits through which they were to pass to the westward, were called Endea- vour Straits, and a group of islands lying to the northward, Prince of Wales's Islands. Before landing on Possession Island, they saw ten natives, one armed with bow and arrows, the rest with lances; but they all went away when the boat approached. They were all naked ; which was the case with some women, seen next morning on the beach. In pursuing their course to the westward, our navigators found, that dangers still awaited them ; for the Endea/our narrowly escaped being wreck- • 'i / ,i NEW GUINEA. 99 nd dan- being lit line ; hip had ' shoals, frightful addition )us task, )f ascer- of New ress, the and Dr. 2d a hill, lie coast, formally of New r, by the oUeys of ed by the imemora- lUed Pos- lich they d Endea- ig to the Before n natives, rest with the boat h was the ig on the ward, our ted them; ag wreck- ed on a shoal, on Saturday the 25th. Having cleared the shoals, and proceeded for some time in a westerly direction, the Commander stood to the N.W. to fall in with New Guinea, aiid cam6 in sight of it on the 29th. They soiled along the coast some days, without seeing aiiy convenient place for approaching the shore. At last, on monday, September 3rd, the Commander, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and nine oth6rs, set out in the pinnace to effect a landing; but the watet was so shallow, that they had to wade about 200 yards to reach the shore, leaving two men ill charge of the boat. The land was found richly clothed with trees, among which they saw th6 cocoa nut, the plantain, and the breadfruit As they advarced along the shore, three Indians ruSh^ ed out of the woods with a hideous shout ; and while one of them threw something from his -hand that blazed like gunpowder, the other two thret^ their lances at the party, who fired some small shot in return. A third lance being thrown, it waS judged proper to fire with ball, which made them instantly retreat; and as they ran vnth great agility, none of them appeared to be seriously wounded. Reluctant to endanger the lives of the savages any further, the Commander and his party returned t6 the boat, from whence they had a view of from 60 to 100 natives, who had come down to the beach. They appeared to be of the same race as the New Hollanders, and like them were stark naked. Som6 muskets were fired over their heads, and hearing the bullets rustling among the trees, they walked away; and the party returned on board. The Commander was strongly urged by some of the officers, to send a force on shore, to cut down the 1*. i I 100 COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. cocoa nut trees for the sake of the fruit ; but this proposal he peremptorily rejected, as at once un- just and cruel, since it would have occasioned a sacrifice of life, which the necessity of the case could not warrant. The boat was therefore hoisted in, and they made sail to the westward. In coasting along New Guinea, and proceeding thence towards Java, Lieut. Cook made various observations on the islands and other objects in his rout, correcting the inaccuracies of the charts here- tofore published. After passing Timor, and other islands, he arrived on monday, the 17th, at an island, where none was laid down in the charts ; and all on board were agreeably surprised, to see, not only houses, fruit trees, and cultivated fields, but numerous flocks and herds, and some people on horaeback, one of them in a complete European dress. Lieut. Gore, and afterwards Dr. Solander, went on shore to procure refreshments ; but obtain- ed only a few cocoa nuts, for which some linen was given in return. It was supposed at first, that the island, which was inhabited chiefly by Malays, was a Portuguese settlement ; but on getting round into a bay, to which the ship was directed, they found a large Indian town, where Dutch colours were uoisted, and three guns fired. It proved to be the island of Savu. On the 18th, Lieut. Gore waited on the Rajah, or King; and informed him, through a Portuguese interpreter, that the ship was a man of war, belonging to Britain, and had sick on board, for whom refreshments were wanted. The King, whose name was A Madocho Lomi Djara, expressed his readiness to furnish supplies, but stated that he was not at liberty to trade with strangers, without the consent of the Dutch i SAVU. 101 but this once un- sioned a the case e hoisted oceeding ; various cts in his irts here- ind other ih, at an B charts; 1, to see, «d fields, le people European Solander, it obtain- )me linen first, that T Malays, ng round ted, they h colours proved to eut. Gore med him, ! ship was had sick wanted. ;ho Lomi supplies, rade with le Dutch resident. The latter proved to be the European seen from the ship, Mr. Johan Christopher Lange, a native of Saxony ; who spoke very civilly to Mr. Gore, and assured him that the British might buy of the natives what they pleased. The King and his attendants, with Mr. Lange, went on board the I f^ Endeavour, where they accepted an invitation to dinner. Dr. Solander and Mr. Sporing under- standing Dutch, could converse with Mr. Lange, while others on board could t.alk with some of the natives who spoke Portuguese. The King desiring to have an English sheep, Mr. Cook presented him with the only one left; and on his expressing a wisli to have also an English dog, Mr. Banks politely gave him his greyhound. Mr. Lange was presented with a spying glass, which he seemed to covet. They promised to bring down to the beach next day, plentiful supplies of buffaloes, sheep, hogs, and fowls. The King, before going on shore, was gratified with seeing the marines exercise, nncf was much struck with the precision of their move- ments. The royal party were dismissed with many presents, accompanied to the shore by Mr. Banks and Dr Solander; and were saluted with nine guns, for which three cheers were returned. On the 19th, the Commander, with Mr. Banks and others, went on shore ; but they were mortified to find that the promised supplies had not come to the beach. They dined Vf'Jh. the King on rice and pork, sitting on mats after the Indian fashion. On various pretences, the sale of refreshments was delayed by Mr. Lange ; but at last, through the interest of an old Indian, to whom Lieut. Cook gave a spying glass and a sword, the market was opened; and nine buffaloes, six sheep, three 102 COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. I ' (. I Jhqgs, with quantities of fowls, limes, cocoa nuts, and eggs; as filso. several hundred gallons of palm syrap, were procured, on pretty reasonable tenps. ( Among the natives of Savu, some remains of the practice of tattooing, so general in the South Seas, wera qbseryed. One of the residents here was Mr. Frederick Craig, whose office was to instruct youth iiji, reading, writing, and the principles of Christ- ianity, He boasted, that thqre were 600 Christians in that province ; yet there was neither minister :ipLpx chujrchpn the whole island. The morals of ihe people were stated, however, to be remarkably ^pyrect. Instances of illicit commerce between the gexes were jvlmost ijnkfiown, and cases of theft, or revenge, were of i^fire occurrence. On fricjay, Sept. 21st, the Endeavour again set sail, on a westerly course; and came in sight of ^ava in the evening of the 30th. On tuesday, Oct. 2nd, a boat was sent on shore, and procured some cocoa nuts and plantains for Tupia, who was very ill ; and also some herbage for the cattle. Two Dutch ships being seen off Anger Point, Lieut. Hicks was sent on board to inquire after news; and learnt, among other things, that the Swallow, Capt. Carteret, which had not returned to ijngland when the Endeavour cailed, had been at Batavia about two years ago. On the 3rd, an officer came on board, to make inquiries concern- ing the ship, and its voyage ; but, owing to un- favourable winds, it was not until tuesday, th^ 9th, that the Endeavour camt to an anchor in Batavia roads. Here they found, among many other ships, the Harcourt Indiaman, with two English private traders ; and during their stay, the Earl of Elgin, 1^ ■I.- H BATAVIA. 103 coa nuts, allon^ of easonable ins of the )uth Seas, e was Mr. uct youth 3f Christ- Christians r minister morals of smarkably jtween the >f theft, or again set n sight of 1 tuesday, procured 1, who was the cattle, ger Point, quire after 3, that the )t returned , had been he 3rd, an !S concern- ing to un- Eiy, the 9th, in Bata'via )ther ships, lish private rl of Elgin, Capt. Cook, and the Phoenix, Capt. Black, al^o anchored in the roads. The Commander and his friends went on shore on the 10th, and were politely received by Mr. Leith, the only respectable English resident ; who invited them to dinner, and assisted th^m in pro- curing lodgings and supplies. The Lieutenant was afterwards introduced to the Dutch Governor General, who received him courteously, and pro- mised to attend to his wants. A dreadful storm of thunder, lightning, and rain, occurred at night, when a Dutch East Indiaman, having an iron spindle at the maintop-gallant-mast head, was struck with lightning, and severely injured; while the Endeavour, which was near it, having an elec- trical chain, sustained no injury. The Endeavour requiring to be thoroughly re- paired, for her voyage homeward, she was removed for that purpose to the isle of Onrust; while the gentlemen connected with the expedition had lodg- ings on shore. The stores were landed on Cooper's Island, close adjoining to Onrust. The ship's bot- tom was found to be in a worse state than was supposed : the false keel was almost all gone, the main keel considerably injured, a great quantity of sheatliing torn off, and several planks much dama- ged. Some of them were so worn, for the length of six feet, fis to be only an eighth of an inch in thickness ! " How much misery did we escape," says the Captain, " by being ignorant that so con- siderable a part of the bottom of the vessel was thinner than the sole of a shoe; and that every life on board depended on such a slight and fragile barrier !" Yet, while this discovery demanded special , f ii !J,«.«W.>JMW' H 'J «« 104 COOK S FIRST VOYAflE. gratitude to Providence, for presei'ving them from shipwreck, they were now exposed to dangers that proved more fatal, and which no skill or caution on their part could shun. When they landed at Batavia, they were all rosy and plump, except Tupia. Even he was in high spirits at first, and walked in his native dress about the streets, where he was taken for Otourou, who came hither with M. Bougainville ; while his boy Tayeto danced in extasy, at the sight of the houses, carriages, streets, and people. But in a few days, owing to the in- salubrity of the town, situated among rivers and canals, with stagnant and putrid waters, almost every person, both on board and ashore, became afflicted with fever and tertian ague. A tent was set up for the reception of the ship's company, on the 26th ; and poor Tupia, who had been lodging with Mr. Banks, desiring to breath a freer air, was conveyed by Mr. Banks, who was then ill himself, to a tent pitched for him on Cooper's Island. Soon after, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Monk- house the Surgeon, were dangerously ill. On the 6th of November, the Surgeon first fell a sacrifice to this ^atal climate ; which was a serious loss to the ship'., company in their present sickness. Dr. Solander was just able to attend the funeral ; but Mr. Banks, who had been partly delirious, was confined to bed. On the 9th, they lost poor Tay- eto ; and Tupia, who loved him with the tender- ness of a father, was so aflfected at the loss, that he died a few days after. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solan- der were, by the advice of the Physician, removed into the country ; where, under the care of Malay female nurses, whom they bought on purpose, they gradually recovered. By the 14th, the ship was U! I ( BATAVIA. 105 em from ^ers that caution mded at , except irst, and ts, where ,her with meed in i, streets, • the in- vers and i, almost , became tent was pany, on lodging r air, was [ himself, id. Soon Monk- On the icrifice to ss to the ss. Dr. gral; but ous, was oor Tay- 2 tender- 3, that he r. Solan- removed of Malay ose, they ship was found to be thoroughly repaired, very much to the satisl'action of the Commander : but now he him- self was taken ill, as well as Mr. Sporing, and a seaman who had attended Mr. Banks ; and at this time, not more than ten of the ship's company were fit for duty. The rainy season having commenced about the 26th, the suft'erings of our people at Batavia were greatly aggravated. On the 8th of December, the ship being perfectly refitted, and having taken in most of her water and stores, and received the sick on board, ran up from Onrust to Batavia roads ; but owing to the sickly state of the men, she was not completely ready to sail till monday, the 24th. On that day, Lieut. Cook took leave of the Gover- nor, through whom he had been supplied with money from the Company's treasury. A dispute arose at that time, about a man who had run away from a Dutch ship, and got on board the Endea- vour ; but as indubitable proof was obtained, that the man was a British subject, he was allowed to remain with his countrymen. On tuesday, Mr. Banks and the rest of the scientific gentlemen went on board; and on Wednesday the 26th, the En- deavour sailed ; on which occasion, she was saluted by the Earl of Elgin with three cheei*s and 13 guns, and by the garrison with 14 guns; which saluta- tions were returned, by the help of the swivels on board. During their stay at Batavia, the ship's company lost seven of their number; viz. the Sur- geon, three seamen, Mr. Green's servant, Tupia, and Tayeto : and at this time, the number of sick on board amounted to forty. On leaving Batavia, our navigators proceeded towards the Straits of Sunda, the channel between 106 COOKS FlRS'i VOYAGE. I Java and Sumatra ; and were in that channel at the commencement of the year 1771. On the 5th of January, they anchored at Prince's Island, at the further end of the Straits, to procure wood, water, and refreshments for the sick ; some of whom were much worse than when they embarked. Here the Commander went on shore, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander ; and were met on the beach by some Indians, who conducted them to their King. His Majesty received them kindly ; but they differed with him about the price of a turtle ; yet soon after, they procured a good supply, both of turtle and of water. In the evening of next day, Mr. Banks visited the King, who was dressing his own supper in his temporary palace in a rice field, where he received the stranger very graciously. Supplies of fish, fowl, deer, and vegetables, were purchased on some following days. On friday, the 1 1th, Messrs. Banks and Gore visited an Indian town, of about 400 houses, named Samadang, divided by a river, over which they were ferried in canoes. While the people were getting wood and water, an axe was stolen by the natives ; but through the influ- ence of the King it was restored. Mr. Banks made him several presents, and took a friendly leave of him on the 13th. Two days after, our navigator quitted the Straits of Sunda, taking his departure from Java Head, and steering direct for the Cape of Good Hope. This was by far the most melancholy part of the voyage. The seeds of disease received at Batavia, soon began to appear in dysenteries and slow fevers. Mr. Banks was for some time among the sick, and his life was despaired of. The ship was nothing better than an hospital, in which those who were ; CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 107 lannel at 1 the 5th sland, at re wood, of whom id. Here "r. Banks beach by eir King, y differed 3on after, jrtle and [r. Banks n supper where he ipplies of ihased on I, Messrs. of about y a river. While I', an axe :he influ- nks made f leave of lie Straits ,va Head, )d Hope. Lit of the i Batavia, )w fevers, sick, and I nothing vho were I able to go about, were too few to attend the sick who were confined to their hammocks. Death, at last, began to make fearful havock among the ship's company; so that for some time they had almost every night a dead body to commit to the sea. In the course of about six weeks, they lost Mr. Sporing, Mr. Parkinson, Mr. Green, the boat- swain, the carpenter and his mate, Mr. Monkhouse the midshipman, the sailmaker (a drunken old man, the only person not seized with sickness at Batavia), the sailmaker's assistant, the ship's cook, the corporal of the marines, two of the carpenter's crew, a midshipman, and nine seamen ; in all, 23 persons, besides the seven lost at Batavia. On friday, March 15th, they anchored at the Cape of Good Hope. The Commander waited on the Governor, who promised him every thing the country could afford : and a house was immediately provided for the reception of the sick. Great as was the loss of the Endeavour, it was found that other ships had, in the voyage to India, suffered still more. The Houghton Indiaman, then at the Cape, had lost between 30 and 40 men by sickness, and had many in a helpless condition when she left the Cape for England. Having remained here till the 13th of April, and procured a variety of stores and refreshments, Lieut. Cook got the sick on board, and too..: leave of the Governor. The vessel moved from the bay on the 14th, but, not having a fair wind, did not finally leave the coast till thursday, the 25th. In the afternoon of that day, they lost the Master, Mr. Robert MoUineux, a young man of good parts, but unhappily given to intemperance, which brought on disorders that shortened his days. It is melancholy if' 108 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. r ; ' \v. \f % i to think, how many of our brave seamen fall victims to the beastly vice of drunkenness. On the 1st of May, they arrived at St. Helena, where they remained till the 4th, to procure refresh- ments. From hence they sailed for England, in company with the Portland man of war, and twelve sail of Indiamen. On the 10th, the Commander finding his ship sailing more heavily than any of the fleet, made a signal to speak with the Portland, upon which Capt. Elliot himself came on board ; when Lieut. Cook, intimating that he could not keep up with the fleet, gave him in charge a letter to the Admiralty, and a box containing some log- books and journals. Our navigators, however, did not lose sight of the Indiamen, till the 23rd ; and on the same day they lost Mr. Hicks, the fii*st Lieutenant. He died of consumption, from which he was not free on leaving England. Next day, the Commander promoted Mr. Charles Clerke, a worthy young man, to act as Lieutenant in his stead. They continued on their course till the 10th of June, when land, which proved to be the Lizard, was discovered by Nicholas Young, the same boy that first saw New Zealand. On the 11th, they ran up the channel ; and on the 12th, at 3 P.M. they came to an anchor in the Downs, and landed at Deal; thus happily arriving in their native country, after an absence of two years, and nearly eight months. fall victims 5t. Helena, Lire refresh- ing-land, in and twelve Commander lan any of e Portland, on board ; could not I'ge a letter : some log- •wever, did 23rd; and 5, the fii-st rom which Next day, Gierke, a ant in his le 10th of le Lizard, same boy 11 th, they at 3 P.M. id landed ir native nd nearly (> CHAPTER IX. Cook is cordially welcomed on his arrival — introduced to the King — raised to the rank of Commander. His Letters to Mr. Walker, giving a summary account of his Voyage. Publication of the authorised narrative of the Voyage, re- ceived with much eagerness. A new Expedition planned. Cook's visit to Ayton and Whitby. The Resolution and Adventure engaged for the new Voyage: Captain Cook appointed to the former, and Capt. Purneaux to the latter. Equipment and sailing of the Vessels. Capt. Cook's In- structions delivered to him at Plymouth. The happiness enjojed by Lieut. Cook, on being safely restored to the bosom of his family, and the society of his friends, after an absence of nearly three years, may be better conceived than described. But it was not by his kindred and particular friends only, that our great navigator was welcomed to his native country : the whole British public hailed his arrival with joy, and he was every where received with that respect and admiration, which his eminent talents, surprising adventures, and important discoveries, were calculated to command. He was justly regarded as an ornament to his country, and his company was sought by persons of every rank, not excepting royalty itself. A few weeks after his arrival, he was introduced to King George III, and had an hour's conversation with him, during which His Majesty paid him some high and gratifying compliments. And it r 1 r .'':- X ! I 110 LIFE OF COOK. was fit that he, who had taken possession of so many countries on His Majesty's behalf, and had acted the part of his representative at the courts of so many Kings of distant islands, should have the honour of an interview with his own Sovereign. The Admiralty Board, at which the Earl of Sandwich now presided, expressed their warm approbation of his services ; and on the 29th of August, he was raised to the rank of Captain Com- mander. He expected to be made Post Captain at once, without passing through that intervening stage ; and he well deserved to enjoy that distinc- tion ; but a regard to etiquette, and the usual forms of promotion, prevented his being advanced higher for the present. The difference, indeed, was only in rank, not in emolument. His friends who had recommended him to the service which he had so ably performed, particularly Sir Hugh Palliser, must have been delighted to find, that he had not only come up to their high expectations, but lar exceeded them. His services in observing the transit of Venus, as well as his connection with those eminent naturalists, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, procured him the es- teem and regard of the President and Council of the Royal Society. His papere relating to the transit, with those of Mr. Green, were put into the hands of the Astronomer Royal, for the use of the scien- tific world. Some time after. Captain Cook pre- pared a paper " On the flowing of the Tides in the South Sea," which was read before the Royal Society, May 21st, 1772, and is published in the 62nd Volume of the Philosophical Transactions, While thus respected and honoured by his King and country, and admitted to the society of the LETTERS TO MR. WALKER. Ill ssion of so ilf, and had ; the courts hould have Sovereign, le Earl of heir warm the 29th of ptain Com- st Captain intervening lat distinc- asual forms iced higher , was only s who had he had so h Palliser, he had not is, but far Venus, as laturalists, lim the es- incilofthe ;he transit, the hands the scien- Cook pre- des in the he Royal ied in the actions. his King ity of the ■ f i fl great and the learned, Captain Cook did not forget or neglect his old friends in the north. His Whitby friend, Mr. Walker, having written him soon after his arrival, with kind inquiries concerning his > health and success, was favoured with a brief ac- count of his voyage, in two lettei*s, before the publication of his journal. The insertion of these letters will not be deemed a needless repetition : the reader will rather regard them as valuable docu- ments, giving a summary of the events and results of his first voyage, in his own words. — The first Letter is as follows : Mile-end, London, 17 th Aug. — 71. Dear Sir, Your veiy obliging letter came safe to hand, for which and your kind inquiries after my health, I return you my most sincere thanks. I should have wrote much sooner, but have been in expectation, for several days past, of an order to make my Voyage public, after which I could have wrote with freedom. As this point is not yet de- tennined upon, I lie under some restraint. I may, however, venture to inform you, that the voyage has fully answered the expectation of my superiors. I had the honour of an hour's conference with the King the other day, who was pleased to express his approbation of my conduct, in terms that were extremely pleasing to me. I, however, have made ' no very great discoveries, yet I have explored more of the Great South Sea than all that have gone before me ; in so much that little remains now to be done, to have a thorough knowledge of that part of the globe. I sailed from England, as well provided for such 112 LIFE OF COOK. ) I' li.'i'''; i<' ; ' ! a voyag^e as possible, and a better ship for sucli a service 1 never would wisli for. We touched first at Madeira, and took in wine ; after that at Rio .faneiro, where we recruited our provisions. We next touched in Straits le Maire, in a port in Terra del Fuego, where we took in wood and water. This was in the month of January, that is, in the midst of summer ; yet the weather was exceeding cold and stormy, with snow. We left this place towards the latter end of the month, and in about 3 weeks time got round Cape Horn into the South Sea, without ever being once brought under our close-reefed top- sails : however we had no want of wind. The highest south latitude we were in was 60° 12'; and here we had finer weather than in a lower latitude. We arrived at George's Island, the place of desti- nation, on the 13th of April, — 69 ; having in our rout thither discovered several islands, which are of no great note. We met with a very friendly reception by the natives of George's Island, who supplied us with all manner of refreshments that the island afforded. We had here an extraordinary good observation of the Transit of Venus, which was one of the principal objects of the voyage. We left this island, after a stay of three months, and afterwards visited some others lying in its neighbourhood ; where we were plentifully suppli- ed with fresh provisions. We left these islands on the 9th of Aug., and steered to the southward, in search of the so much before talked-of Southern Continent; which we did not find. Before we left the above islands, the voyage was very agree- ble and pleasant : the remainder was attended with such a variety of circumstances, that I must defer to some other opportunity to enter upon it. — Should i.' ! LETTERS TO MR. WALKER. 113 for sue] I a uched first hat at Rio ions. We »rt in Terra ater. This he midst of g cold and ;o wards the weeks time ea, without -reefed top- vind. The 0° 12'; and rei' latitude, ce of desti- iving in our , which are !ry friendly sland, who iments that traordinary nus, which le voyage, ee months, ring in its illy suppli- islands on iithward, in ■ Southern Before we very agree- ended with must defer it.— Should I come into the North, I shall certainly call upon you, and am, with great respect, Sir, Your most Obliged Humble Servt. Jam. Cook. t To Capt. Jno. Walker at Whitby. The second Letter, written about a month after, not only continues the narrative, but recurs to his favourite theme, Otaheite, and the other South Sea Islands. Mile-end, London, \3th Sept. 1771. Sir, In my last I gave you some account of my Voyage, as far as the South Sea Islands ; the remainder shall be the subject of this letter. What I mean by the South Sea Islands are those that lie within and about the Tropics. They are in general small: George's Island, which is only about 33 leagues in circuit, is one of the largest. The inha- bitants of this island gave us an account, and the names, of 130 islands lying in these seas. They are of two kinds, very low, or very mountainous. The low islands are such as are called Keys in the West Indies ; that is, mostly shoals, ledges of rocks, &c. The chief produce of the firm land is cocoa nuts. These and fish, with which all these islands abound, are the chief support of the inha- bitants. The mountainous parts of the high islands are in general dry and barren, and as it were burnt up with the sun ; but all these islands are skirted round with a border of low land, which is fertile and pleasant to a very high degree, being well clothed with fruit trees, which nature hath planted here for the use of the happy natives. These people 1) 114 LIFE OF COOK. m !t| I may be said to be exempted from the curse of our forefatliers. Scarce can it be said that they earn their bread by the sweat of their brows. Benevo- lent nature hath not only provided them with necessaries, but many of the luxuries of life. Loaves of bread, or at least what serves as a most excellent substitute, grow here in a manner spon- taneously upon trees ; besides a great many other fruits, and roots : and the sea coasts are well stored with a vast variety of excellent fish. They have only three species of tame animals, hogs, dogs, and fowls; all of which they eat. Dogs we learned from them also to eat; and there were but few among us who did not think, that a South Sea dog ate as well as an English lamb. Was I to give a full description of these islands, the manners and customs of the inhabitants, &c., it would far exceed the bounds of a letter. I must therefore, quit these terrestrial paradises, in order to follow the course of our voyage. In the beginning of Aug. 1769, we quitted the tropical regions, and steered to the southward, in the midst of the South Sea, the height of 40°, without meeting with any land, or the least visible signs of any. We then steered to the westward, between the latitude of 30° and 40°, until we fell in with the cast coast of New Zealand, a very small part of the west coast of which, was first discovered by Tasman in 1642 ; but he never once set foot upon it. This country was thought to be a part of the Southern Continent ; but I found it to be two large islands, both of which I circumnavigated in the space of six months. They extend from the latitude of 34° South to 47^° South, and are toge- ther nearly as big as Great Britain. It is a hilly. LETTERS TO MR. WALKER. 115 jrse of our t they earn Benevo- them with Bs of life. I as a most nner spon- many other well stored They have s, dogs, and we learned sre but few uth Sea dog I I to give a lanners and d far exceed e, quit these r the course quitted the )uthward, in ght of 40°, least visible le westward, Lintil we fell a very small st discovered nee set foot be a part of it to be two navigated in nd from the md are toge- It is a hilly. mountainous country, but rich and fertile j especi- ally the northern parts, where it is also well inha- bited. The inhabitants of this country are a strong, well-made, active people, rather above the common size. They are of a very dark brown colour, with long black hair. They are also a brave, warlike people, with sentiments void of treachery. Their arms are spears, clubs, halberts, battle-axes, darts, and stones. They live in strongholds, or fortified towns, built in well chosen situations, and accord- ing to art. We had frequent skirmishes with them, always where we were not known : Our fire aiins gave us the superiority. At first some of them were killed ; but we at last learned how to manage them without taking away their lives : and when once peace was settled, they ever after were our veiy good friends. These people speak the same language as the people of thy South Sea Islands, we had before visited, though distant from them many hundred leagues, and of whom they have not the least knowledge, or of any other people what- ever. Their chief food is fish, and fern roots : they have too, in places, large plantations of potatoes, such as we have in the West Indies, and likewise yams, &c. Land animals they have none, either wild or tame, except dogs, which they breed for food. This country produceth a grass plant like flags, of the nature of hemp or flax, but superior in quality to either. Of this the natives make cloth- ing, lines, nets, &c. The men very often go naked, with only a narrow belt about their waists : the women, on the contrary, never appear naked. Their government, religion, notions of the creation of the world, mankind, &c., are much the same as those of the natives of the South Sea Islands, 116 LIFE OF COOK. /( . We left this country on the 1st. of April, 1770, and steered for New Holland, all the east part of which remained undiscovered ; my design being to fall in with the southern part, called Van Die- man's Land: but the wincls forced me to the northward of it about 40 leagues, so that we fell in with the land in latitude 38° south. I explored the coast of this country, which I called New South Wales, to the northern extremity; in the doing of'which, we were many times in great dan- ger of losing the ship. Once we lay 23 hours upon a ledge of rocks, were obliged to throw our guns and many of our stores overboard, received very much damage In her bottom ; but by a fortunate <::ircumstance got her into port, and repaired her. Great part of this coast is covered with islands and shoals ; which made the exploring it exceeding dangerous, even to a very great degree. We sailed upon this coast near 400 leagues by the lead, with- out ever having a leadsman out of the chains, with sometimes one, two, and three boats ahead, to direct us; and yet, with all this precaution, we were very often obliged to anchor with all sails standing, to prevent running ashore. We at last surmounted all difficulties, and got into the Indian Sea, by a passage entirely new. The east coast of New Holland, or what I call New South Wales, extends from 38° to 10^°. If New Holland can be called an island, it is by fi-r the greatest in the known world. The interior part of this immense track of land is not at all known : what borders on the sea coast is a mixture of fertile and barren land ; tlie soil, in general, is of a loose sandy nature. The natives of this country a'-e not numerous : they are of a very dark brown or choco- pril, 1770, st part of ign being Van Die- ne to the we fell in I explored lUed New ty; in the great dan- lours upon r our guns eived very I fortunate aaired her. slands and exceeding We saDed lead, with- hains, with ahead, to aution, we ih all sails We at last the Indian /hat I call ) 10i°. If it is by \v.v ilerior part all known : re ot fertile of a loose try a'-e not n or choeo- LETTERS TO MR. WALKER. 117 late colour, with lank black hair : they are under the common size, and seem to be a timorous, in- offensive race of men. They spoke a very difterent language from any we had met with. Men, wo- men, and children, go wholly naked. It is said of our first parents, that after they had eaten the forbidden fruit, they saw themselves na-:ed, and were ashamed; these people are naked, and are not ashamed. They live chiefly on fish, and wild fowl, and such other articles as the land naturally produceth ; for they do not cultivate one foot of it. These people may truly be said to be in the pure state of nature, and may appear to some to be the most wretched upon earth; but, in reality, they are far more happy than we Europeans, being wholly unacquainted not only with the superflui- ties, but with many of the necessary conveniences, so much sought after in Europu : they are happy in not knowing the use of them. They live in a tranquillity, which is not disturbed by the inequality of condition : the earth and sea, of their own accord, furnish them with oli things necessary for life; they covet not magnificent houses, household stuff', &c. ; they sleep as sound in a small hovel, or even in the open air, as the King in his palace on a bed of down. Alter quitting New Holland, we steered for the coast of New Guinea, whore we landed but once : then made the best of our way to Batavia, and in our way touched at an island, partly under the Dutch East India Company. Here we got plenty of refreshments, which were very acceptable. We arrived at Batavia in Oct., all in good health and high spirits. On our arrival at a European settle- ment, we thought all our hardships at an end ; btit --^ \*k''- 118 L1F£ OF COOK. Providence thouglit proper to order it otherwise* The repairs the ship wanted caused a delay of near 10 weeks, in which time we contracted sick- nesses, that here, and on our passage to the Cape of Good Hope, carried off above thirty of my peo- ple* The rem linder of the voyage was attended with no material circumstance. If any interesting circumstance should occur to me, that I have omitted, I will hereafter acquaint you with it I however expect, that my Lords Commissi, i^i * the Admiralty will veiy soon publish tht «:ioje Voyage, Charts, &c. Another voyage is thought of, with two ships ; which, if it takes place, I be- lieve the command will be conferred upon me. — If there is any thing that I can infonn you of, in regard to my late voyage, I shall take a pleasure in it : and believe me to be Your Obliged Servt., Jams. Cook. These letters may give us an idea of those par- tial notices of his voyage, which Captain Cook communicated to his particular friends, previous to the publication of the entire narrative. The latter was looked for by the public with intense interest ; and it is not surprising, that unauthorised attempts were made to gratify such eager curiosity. One of these anticipations of Cook's narrative was entitled, " A Journal of a Voyage round the World." This must have been the work of som'» one connected with the expedition ; and although the account which it contained was comparatively dry and meagre, it wab received with eagerness. A copy of the Journal of Mr. Parkinson, th: property of Mr. Banks, his employer, having been f-S NEW EXPEDITION PLANNED* lig otherwise* I delay of icted sick- 3 the Cape 3f my peo- s attended interesting lat I have with it I. the vViioie is thought )lace, I be- ipon me. — you of, in a pleasure vt, IS. Cook. those par- )tain Cook s, previous itive. The dth intense nauthorised jr curiosity, narrative round the )rk of som** id although oiparatively eagerness kinson, th. laving been Sk* surreptitiously obtained, together with his valuable drawings, was also printed ; but an injunction from the Court of Chancery f(5r some time prevented its publication. The authorised account of the Voy- age, drawn up by Dr. Hawkesworth, from the the Commander's Journal, and the papers of Mr. Banks (afterwards Sir Joseph Banks), at last ap- peared ; and was received by the public with that high regard which it justly merited. Its value was • greatly enhanced by the excellent charts and draw- ings that accompanied it, liberally furnished at the expense of Government. By this Publication, the fame of our navigator was soon spread abroad, not only in the British dominions, but among all the nations of Europe, and throughout the whole civil- ized world. While public curiosity was amply gratified by the perusal of this most interesting narrative, the discoveries which Cook had made, excited a desire after further discoveries. Even before it was pub- lished, as appears from the close of his second letter to Mr. Walker, a fresh expedition was talked of, and it was proposed to send two ships, under his command, to make new researches in the Pacific Ocean, and particularly to explore the southern hemisphere, in order to put an end to all further speculation about a great southern continent. This proposal meeting with the approbation of a patri- otic King, and a liberal Government, and accord- ing with the wishes of Cook himself, steps v;ere immediately taken for carrying it into eflfect During the progress of this new and important meiasu , Capt. Cook found leisure to pay a short visit to his relations and friends in the north. His father was still living at Ayton, and must have been 't 1 mmmfm mmmm mmmmm 1-20 LIFE OF COOK. .' ! >k overjoyed to see his only surviving- son, p'esened through so many perils, and now raise 1 to an elevated rank, enjoying the respect and admira- tion of his country. His father's friend, and his own early patron, Thos. Skottowe, Esq., was now no more, having died in the beginning of that year. But about this period, Captain Cook be- came intimately accjuainted with another respected '.-d, Commodore Wilson, then, and for many ^ s after, residing at Ay ton. This gentleman had performed many gallant exploits in the East India Company's service, and had, among* other enterprises, discovered, in 1759, the eastern pas- gage to China, by Pitt's Straits, so called after the name of the vessel which Capt. Wilson then com- manded. As Cook and he were kindred spirits, brothers in bold enterprise and successful discovery, they felt powerfully attracted to each other, and formed a friendship which lasted during life. According to promise, Capt. Cook paid a visit to his worthy friend, Mr. Walker ^ Whitby, who, with his family, shewed him great kindness and respect. All, indeed, who had known him during his residence in Whitby, would be desirous to re- new their acquaintance, with one who was not only a credit to the place where he had spent his youth, but an ornament to his country. But of all his Whitby friends, no one received him with more cordiality than good old Mary Prowd, the worthy nurse, who had distinguished him with her special regard, when an apprentice boy. Her opinion of his worth had been amply confirmed, and her hopes of his future greatness more than realized. She had been delighted to hear of his adventures and preferments, and was overjoyed at the thoughts m VHEPARATIONS FOR HIS SECOND VOYAGE. 121 j)''esen'ed iel to an :l admira- l, and his , was now g of that Cook be- respected for many gentleman 1 the East long other istern pas- 1 after the then com- L'ed spirits, discovery, other, and life. aid a visit itby, who, dness and lim during rous to re- was not spent his But of all with more he worthy ler special opinion of and her realized, idventures .e thoughts II of once more seei. g him. Previous to his arrival, she had been taught, that she must not now call him James, in the same familiar way as before ; she must recollect his rank, and call him Captain. Molly resolved to abide by these instructions, but the moment he appeared in iier presence, the burst of her affections overpowered every other feeling : forgetting all her lessons, she stretched out both her arms to welcome him, and exclaimed in her own native phraseology, " O honey James, how glad I's to see thee !" Captain Cook would of course congratulate Mr. Fishburn on the excellence of the Endeavour, in which he had circumnavigated the globe ; and which, instead of being laid aside as unfit for ser- vice, was already sc .it off for the Falkland Isles, as a store ship. The choice of the two vessels wanted for the new expedition under his command, being left to himself, lie selected two ships made by the same eminent builder, both the property of Capt. Wm. Hammond of Hull, and now only from 14 to 16 months old. It was Cook's firm opinion, often expressed, that no ships were better adapted for voyages of discovery, than those constructed at Whitby for the coal trade ; being of a moderate size, and strongly built. The largest of these two vessels was named the Resolution, of 462 tons burthen ; the other was the Adventure, of 336 tons. On the 28th of November, Capt. Cook was ap- pointed to the command of the Resolution, with a complement of 112 oflScers and men, including marines ; while Mr. Tobias Furneaux, who had been second Lieutenant with Capt. Wallis, was promoted to the command of the Adventure, with, a complement of 81. The ships were fitted out in :v-:=r::rr-i^! 122 LIFE OF COOK- J '1^ ' Ai ,1 y ' the most complete style, the former at Deptford, the latter at Woolwich ; and were furnished with every thing that could contribute to the comfort of the officers and crew, and the success of the voyage. Among the excellent stores and provisions put on board, there were large supplies of antiscorbutics j such as, sour crout, salted cabbage, portable broth, marmalade of carrots, malt, and inspissated juice of wort and beer. Amidst eager desires for geographical discovery, the cause of science was not forgotten. The Ad- miralty engaged Mr. Wm. Hodges, an eminent artist, to make drawings and paintings of interest- ing objects, occurring during the voyage. Mr. John Reinhold Forster and his son were appointed to fill the department of natural history ; for which the Parliament made provision. And, although there was no transit of Venus to observe, astrono- my had also its representatives, in Mr. Wm. Wales and Mr. Wm. Bayley; engaged by the Board of Longitude, the former for the Resolution, the latter for the Adventure. Both ships were supplied with excellent timekeepers, and astronomical apparatus* Captain Cook was highly satisfied with the se- lection of the officers under his command. His first Lieutenu^'t was Mr. R. P. Cooper ; his second and third Lieutenants, Messrs. Clerke and Pickersgill, had served under him in his first voyage; as did also Lieut. Edgcumbe, of the marines, two of the warrant officers, and several of the petty officers. His coadjutor. Captain Fumeaux, had for his Lieutenants, Messrs. Joseph Shank, and Arthur Kempe ; and Lieutenant James Scott, of the ma- rines. The winter months having been employed in rH )eptford, tied with mfort of I voyage. 3 put on )rbutics ; le broth, ed juice Lscovery, rhe Ad- eminent interest- ^e. Mr. ppointed 3r which although astrono- a. Wales 3oard of he latter lied with )paratus< 1 the se- His first :ond and ikersgill, >; as did o of the officers, for his Arthur the ma- ioyed in COMTVltNCEMENT OF HIS SECOKU VOYAGET 123 fitting out the vessels, the Resolution sailed from Deptford, April 9th ; but was detained at Wool- wich by contrary winds till the 22nd, when she dropped down to Long Reach, where the Adven- ture joined her, and both ships received their powder, guns, and gunner's stores. On the 10th of May, they sailed from Long Reach, to proceed to Plymouth ; but the Resolution being found to be very crank, it was thought proper to put her into Sheerness, to make some alterations in her upper works. The necessary alterations were exe- cuted by the officers of the yard ; and during their progress, the Earl of Sandwich and Sir Hugh Palliser came down, to see that eveiy thing was done properly. This occurrence gave rise to some reflexions on the judgment of Capt. Cook, in mak- ing choice of the Resolution for this voyage ; but his good opinion of the ship was not shaken, and the event shewed that his judgment was correct. On the 22nd of June, the Resolution, having undergone these alterations, sailed from Sheerness ; and on the 3rd of July, joined the Adventure in Plymouth Sound. Here the Earl of Sandwich and Sir Hugh Palliser, who had been inspecting the dock-yards, paid the last mark of their assidu- ous attention to the equipment of this expedition, by going on board the Resolution, to assure them- selves that every thing was provided according to the Captain's wishes, and that the ship answered his expectations. At Plymouth our navigator received his instruc- tions, directing him to take both vessels under his command ; to touch at Madeira, and the Cape ; and then proceed in search of a southern continent, circumnavigating the globe in a high southern aaoB 124 cook's second voyage. latitude, and getting as near to the south pole as was practicable ; and, in the event of interruption by stormy weather, to retire to some known port, to refresh the people, and refit the ships; and then resume his researches, when the season allowed. If a southern continent was found, he was to ex- plore its coasts, and cultivate an acquaintance with its inhabitants; if none appeared, he might employ himself in discovering such islands as might be situated in the unexplored parts of the southern hemisphere. If the Resolution should be lost, he was to prosecute the voyage in the Adven- ture; and after circumnavigating the globe, re- turn home by the Cape of Good Hope. No time was fixed for his return; and in all unforeseen emergencies, he was authorized to act according to the best of his judgment. — These instructions be- ing received, and a copy delivered to Capt. Fur- neaux, with the necessary directions, both ships were ready to take their final departure from England. pole as irruption vvn port, md then allowed. LS to ex- aintance le might lands as ts of the hould be ! Adven- lobe, re- No time iforeseen )rding to ions be- pt. Fur- th ships re from I CHAPTER X. Arrival at Madeira — at St. Jago — and at the Cape of Good Hope. Letter to Mr. Walker. Voyage towards the Ant- arctic seas, and unsuccessful attempts to find Cape Circum- cision, or any other land in the direction of the south pole. Numerous ice-bergs — Cold and stormy weather. The Resolution and Adventure parted in a fog. Aurora australis. "Voyage of the Resolution to the eastward in a high southern Latitude. Arrival in Dusky Bay, New Zealand. Healthy state of the crew. Refreshments procured. Excursions in Dusky Bay, and friendly intercourse with the natives. Pas- sage from Dusky Bay to Queen Charlotte's Sound. Happy meeting with the Adventure, which had touched at Yaa Diemen's Laad. On monday, July 13th, 1772, the Resolution and Adventure sailed from Plymouth ; and on the 29th, they anchored in Funchiale Roads, at Madeira. Here our navigators met with a friendly reception ; and having procured water, wine, and other refresh- ments, sailed again on the 1st of August. In the beginning of the month, Capt. Cook made tlwee puncheons of beer, from the inspissated juice of malt ; and found the liquor in a few days very brisk and drinkable. The stock of water being low, the ships, on the 9th, put into port Praya, in St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verde Islands ; where not only supplies of water, but of meat and fruits, were obtained. They sailed again on the 14th ; and on the 19th, one of the carpenter's mates, of the Resolution, a sober, worthy man, fell overboard fTT" 126 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. i '/; i/ and was drowned. On the 27th, a similar loss occurred on board the Adventure, where one of tlie petty officers died. At this time there was no sickness on board the Resolution. Heavy rains had recently fallen, which in hot climates often prove injurious to health ; but the Captain, follow- ing some hints received from Sir Hugh Palliser, and Capt. Campbell, took care to have the ship aired and dried with fires made between decks, and obliged the people to air their bedding, and to wash and dry their clothes, whenever there was oppor- tunity. On the 8th of September the ships crossed the line, when the foolish ceremonies, usually prac- tised on the occasion, were not omitted. These of course afforded some sport to the people on board. The officers and scientific gentlemen had their amusements also, on the voyage ; making observa- tions on the currents, the birds, and the luminous appearance which the sea occasionally presents. This last was asceitained, as in the former voyage, to be produced by myriads of insects. On the 11th of October, the Captain and his friends had an opportunity of observing an eclipse of the moon. On the 29th, they came in sight of Table Mountain, and next day came to an anchor in Table Bay ; having reached the Cape, without experiencing any of those calms, or encountering any of those torna- does, which some of their seafaring friends in England had assured them they would meet with near the line, in consequence of their sailing at an improper season of the year. At the Cape, Baron Plettenberg, the Governor, received our navigators with great politeness ; and informed Capt. Cook of two French vessels which, CAPE or GOOD HOPE. 127 ilar loss lie of the was no vy rains ;es often 1, follow- Palliser, the ship ;cks, and I to wash s oppor' crossed Uy prac- These of m board, id their observa- uminous presents. voyage, the 11th had an le moon, ountain, »le Bay; cing any 5e torna- ends in leet with liling at ovemor, jss; and s which. about eight months before, had made some dis- coveries to the southward of the Mauritius ; and of other two French ships, under the command of j M. Marion, that had passed the Cape in March, on h a voyage of discovery to the South Pacific Ocean. ■' Aotourou, whom M. de Bougainville brought from Otaheite, was to have returned with M. Marion, k had he been living. /■ Three weeks were spent at the Cape, during which the Resolution and Adventure were caulked and painted, and in every respect put in as good condition as when they left England. Here Lieut. Shanks, being in ill health, was left behind, at his own request, to return home ; Mr Kemp was pro- moted to be first Lieutenant of the Adventure ; and Mr. Burney, a midshipman in the Resolution, ap- pointed to succeed him as second Lieutenant. Here also, the scientific corps of the Resolution acquired an accession of strength, in the person of Mr. Sparrman, a Swedish naturalist, and a disciple of Linnaeus, who at Mr. Forster's request and ex- pense, was engaged as his assistant. Two days before his departure from the Cape, Capt. Cook wrote a brief farewell letter to his Whitby friend, Mr. Walker, which the reader will be gratified to see ; especially as it expresses his reliance on the care of Providence, in the view of approaching dangers. Cape of Good Hope, 20th Nov., 1772. Dear Sir, Having nothing new to communicate, I should hardly have troubled you with a letter, were it not customary for men to take leave of their friends before they go out of the world ; for I can 12S COOK S SECOND VOYAOF,. hardly think myself in it, so lonjj^ as I am (leprivocl of havinp^ any connexion with the civilized })art of it, and this will soon he my case for two years at least. When T think of the inhospitable parts I am jjfoinjT to, I think the voyage dangerous ; I however enter npon it with j^reat cheerfulness. Providence has been very kind to me on many oc- casions, and I trust in the continuance of the divine protection. I have two g-ood ships, well provided, and well manned. You must liave heard of the clamour raised ajjainst the Resolution before I left England : I can assure you, I never set foot in a finer ship. Please to make my best res})ects to all friends at Whitby, and believe me to be, with gr^at regard and esteem, your most aftectionate frier Jams, Co On the 22nd of Nov. our navigators sailed from the Cape, directing their course southward for Cape Circumcision, the land said to have been seen by M. Bouvet in 1 739. Wann jackets and trowsers, allow- ed by the Admiralty, were served out to the men, in anticipation of the colds and storms of the Antarctic regions. The advantages of this precaution were speedily apparent ; for, on the 6th of Dec. the ther mometer fell to 38, and a severe stonn began, ac- companied with rain, hail, snow, and sleet; which, continuing for several days, destroyed a great part of the live stock brought from the Cape of Good Hope, and drove the ships so far to the eastward of their course, that they had no hopes of reaching Cape Circumcision. On the 10th, being in latitude 50° 40' S. they began to see icebergs, which increased in number and size, as they advanced towards the south J some being about two miles in circuit, and m deprived d part of years at parts I eroiis ; I rf'ulness. nany oc- le divine )rovided, d of the J re I left foot in a icts to all itli gr^at frier Co ded from for Cape en by M. rs, allovt^- men, in Antarctic ion were the ther ac- which, eat part of Good tward of ing' Cape tude 50° ncreased ards the cuit, and jfran, ') I icF.nrufjs. 12!) / (U) feet hif?h ; yet such was the force of tlu^ waves, that the sea broke rip^ht over them. On the 13th they reached 54° S., being the latitude of Ca})e Circumcision; but they were 10° of longitude east of it. On nionday the 14th, in latitude »>4° 50' S. and longitude 21° 34' E., their progress was stopped by a compact field of ice; when they bent their course eastward, along the edge of this field, work- ing their way among numerous icebergs, like so many floating rocks, the danger of striking against which, was much increased by frequent foga. During this navigation, the cold was often so in- tense, that the sails and rigging wer(« all hung with icicles. The sleeves of the men's pickets being too short, and their aims exposed to the cold, the Captain, with his wonted humanity, had them lengthened with baize, and had a cap of baize, strengthened with canvas, made for each of the men ; which contributed much to their comfort. Symptoms of scurvy appearing also on board, recourse was hr.d to the antiscorbutics, which were served out daily under the direction of the Sur- geons. After reaching 31° 30' E. longitude, our navi- gators changed their courae, and stood to the south-west, still keeping among the icebergs ; and on tuesday, the 29th, they were in 59° 12' S. latitude, 19° 1' E. latitude. No tokens of land having been seen, and no bottom found in sound- ing, Capt. Cook resolved, the wind being now favourable, to run as far west as the meridian of Cape Circumcision ; and having sent for Captain Furneaux to come on board and dine with him, acquainted him with his plan. On thursday, the 3l8t, they found themselves in considerable dan- 10 130 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. [|lr^ ! ger, exposed to stormy weauier, among fields and masses of ice, being then in 60° 21' S. latitude, and 13° 32' E. longitude On Saturday, the 2nd of January, 1773, they I'^ere favoured with a sight of the moon, which they bad seen but once since leaving the Cape. The 1 Altitude was found to be 58° 53^ S., longitude 9° 34^' E. This being near- ly the meridian of Cape Circumcision, though 95 leagues to the south of its latitude, the weather Clear, and no land whatever in sight, Capt. Cook was of opinion, that Bouvet must have been mis- taken with respect to Cape Circumcision, and that he had taken a large iceberg, or assemblage of ice- bergs, for land; a mista'ce which our navigators themselves were sometimes in danger of commit- ting. Disappointed in searching for land in this direction, Capt. Cook now pursued a S.E. course, taking in during his progress masses of ice, which being melted afforded supplies of excellent fresh water. On the 17th of January, when our navigators had attained the latitude of 67° 15', being only 22° 45' from the south pole, they found it impossi- ble to proceed further, the ice being entirely closed to the south, without the least appearance of an opening. Here many whales were playing about the ice, while peterels, pintadoes, and other birds, were seen in great numbers. Returning towards the north, Capt. Cook proceeded to search for the land said to have been recently discovered by the French. For several days, the vessels kept a north- erly, or N.E. course, in very unpleasant weather, sometimes thick and hazy, at other times stonny and boisterous, with showers of snow and sleet; till on monday- February 1st, they were in latitude % i f I I RESOLUTION AND ADVENTURE PARTED. 13.1 48° 30' S., longitude 58° 7' E., nearly in the me- ridian of the Mauritius, and about the place where the French were said to have discovered land. The Adventure, in this voyage, usually kept at the distance of four miles from the Resolution, that the ships might take in a wider range. Floating pieces of sea weed or rock weed, with numbers of divers and other birds, being seen from both ships, they were the more eager in searching for land, these being considered indications of its proximity. They sailed to the east, and south-east, till Wed- nesday morning ; when, Capt. Furaeaux expressing his belief, that there was land to the north-west, Capt. Cook, though of a different mind, steered in that direction till the morning of Saturday, the 6th ; when, finding adverse winds, without any appearance of land, he again proceeded towards the south-east. On monday, Feb. 8th, in latitude 49° 53' S, longitude 63° 39' E, a thick fog came on, during which the Adventure parted from the Resolution ; and although Capt. Cook continued to cruise about near the same spot for two days, making frequent signals, no answer was made, and when the weather cleared up she could not be seen. After this, Capt. Cook continued on a S.E. course in the Resolution till he reached the latitude of 60° and upwards, and then steered to the eastward, keeping nearly in that latitude unti. Wednesday, March 16; when, having attained the longitude of 146° 53' E, being nearly the meridian of Van Diemen s Land, he turned towards the north-east. He proposed to examine the eastern point of Van Diemen's Land, and ascertain whethe* it was joined to New Holland or not, a point not then deter- mined; but the wind being unfavourable, he I IIJIIIIIUPIPIPMI JJ iiMli j|,L .mmtfA k 132 COOKS SECOrtU VOYAGE. steered directly for New Zealand, where he hoped to finH the Adventure ; and having the advantage of a strong gale, he made the land on thursday, the 25th. During the whole voyage from the Cape to New Zealand, the Captain and his scientific friends made frequent observations for ascertaining the variation of the compass; though they met with many interruptions, through hazy or stonny wea- ther. The islands and masses of ice, which sup- plied them with water, furnished another subject of investigation ; as also the appearances presented by extensive fields of ice, which, when partially en- veloped in clouds, or fogs, were sometimes mistaken for land. Their attention was likewise directed to the currents, the sea weed, the birds, and the seals ; and they found, to their mortification, that the" presence of penguins, albatrosses, pintadoes, and seals, does not always indicate that land is near. But the most beautiful and interesting phe- nomenon observed in this voyage, was the aurora australis, or southern lights, which in clear evenings appeared toward the south pole, as the northern lights are seen in our country towards the north pole ; and exhibited the same vivid and flitting coruscations, with parallel, and sometimes spiral rays. This splendid phenomenon was first seen early in the morning of Feb. 17th. Capt. Cook was not hitherto aware of its existence, although a bright light was seen toward the south, in his first voyage, during the passage from New Guinea to Savu. It was on friday, the 26th of March, that the Resolution anchored in Dusky Bay, near the West Cape of New Zealand : and although she had been I I hoped antage irsday, / m r DUSKY BAY. 133 117 days at sea, and had sailed 3660 leagues, without being in sight of land, the crew, with one exception, were all well ; owing to the means so carefully employed by the Captain for preserving their health, and especially the judicious use of antiscorbutics. An excellent harbour being discovered on the south-east side of Dusky Bay, by Lieut. Pickersgill, and hence named Pickersgill Harbour, the Resolu- tion was here comfortably moored, in the immediate vicinity of wood and water; and as the place also abounded with fish and wild fowl, Capt. Cook resolved to make some stay here, especially as no European had hitherto landed in the southern division of New Zealand. A large overhanging tree, vhich reached to the gunwale of the ship, formed a communication with the shore ; where a space was cleared in the woods for setting uj) an observatory, a forge, and tei for various uses. The place did not afford a sup^ily of wholesome vegetables; but the Captain, who had t uide beer several times from the inspissated juice of wort during the voyage from the Cape, discovered in the woods a tree resembling the American black spruce ; with the branches of which, together with the same inspissated juice and molasses^ and ;mi infusion of an herb growing here called the tea-herb, he made some fine spruce beer, at once refreshing and medicinal. The poor sheep and goats, that had survived the Antarctic storms, were so aflfected with scurvy, that they could scarcely eat even the most tender leaves, their teeth being all loose. On the 28th, a canoe co^-'aining six or eight people came in sight, the first inhabitants seen since the ship's arrival. Signs of friendship were made ■ I II .JAL. li i «m» » mU i M n ' I: 134 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. ? i to invite them to approac'h ; but without effect. Some time after they had retired, the Captain went with two boats to seek them ; but found only a canoe, in which he left some trinkets for them. No other natives were seen till tuesday, April 6th, when the Captain and the scientific gentlemen, on their return from examining a fine capacious cove, with a fresh water river, on the north side of the bay, observed a man and two women on a small island. The man hallooed to them as they were passing; but when the boat approached him, he discovered manifest signs of fear. He stood on the point of a rock with his club in his hand, while the two women stood behind him at the skirts of the wood, each carrying a spear. When the boat came to the spot, he still kept his post, and when Captain Cook landed, and went up and embraced him, all his fears were dissipated. The two women now ventured to draw near, while some of the party landed from the boat '. and a friendly con- versation, little underetood on either side, was car- ried on for about half an hour. In this friendly chat, the youngest of the two women had the principal share, j'liiiliii4:Miililllill \k m^mmmmm •J :■•' I '. DUSKY HAY. 137 In the meiin time, the Captain proceeded on nionday witli two boats, to exj)lore the upper part of the bay on the south side; Messrs. Forster and Hodf^es being with him in the one boat, while laeut. Cooper had the charge of the other. Both parties passed the night on the shore ; and next morning examined a river, on the banks of which they saw some natives, who would not accept an invitation to draw near, but retired into the woods. After- wards two other natives were seen on the shore, aimed with spears ; and the Captain advancing to them alone, one of them was persuaded to lay down his spear and approach. He held out in his hand a grass plant, which the Captain took hold of also, and when both had muttered some words alternate- ly, peace was considered as fully settled, and they saluted each other as friends. The New Zealander gave the Captain his hahou, or cloak ; and received in return a hatchet and a knife, as did also his com- rade. They invited the Captain and his friends, whom they kindly saluted, to go to their habita- tion, and get something to eat; but on account of the tide, he could not accept their invitation. They accompanied him and his friends to the boat, which they assisted in launching ; having first de- sired them to put away the muskets, the murderous effects of which, in shooting ducks and other wdld fowl, they had that morning witnessed. A few other natives appeared in the skirts of the wood, but did not come near. Many other excursions were made in Dusky Bay, for surveying, botanizing, duck-shooting, seal-killing, and fishing. After the 25th of April, the weather became veiy rainy and hazy ; which greatly marred the pleasure of such excursions. S rrrsEssfflsai 1^ l.i f I 138 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. '■i IM k' =1 ■ The Captain, however, completed his survey of Dusky Bay, with all its intricate windings, coves, and islands ; and, on thursday the 29th, having got every thing on board, and having sown with garden seeds of various sorts a piece of ground where the tents had stood, he sailed from Pickers- gill Harbour, and made for a new passage out of the bay to the northward, which he had discovered in his survey. Contrary winds and adverse cur- rents, with the necessity of proceeding cautiously through this new channel, so impeded his progress outwards, that he did not get fairly out to sea till tuesday. May 11 th. Astronomicpi observations were made at Pickere- gill Harbour by Mr. Wales, for determining the variation of the compass, proving the chronometers, and ascertaining the longitude. This last was found to be 166° 18' E. ; the latitude 45° 47' 26i" S. During the passage from Dusky Bay to Queen Charlotte's Sound, nothing remarkable occurred, except the appearance of some waterspouts, so often observed in the Pacific Ocean. On the 18th of May, the Resolution arrived in Queen Charlotte's Sound, where, to the great joy of both parties, the Adventure was found at anchor; having arrived here six weeks before, or about ten days after the arrival of the Resolution in Dusky Bay. The Adventure, after losing sight of the Resolu- tion on the 7th of February, had cruised some days near the spot; when not seeing the Resolution, nor hearing her signals, she bore away in the direc- tion in which botiv had been sailing ; but took an easterly course in a latitude about 8° lower than the Resolution. On the 9th of March, Capt. Fur- 7 ' THE ADVENTUUE FOUND. 130 neaiix fell in with the south part of Van Diemen's liancl ; and spent live days in a bay which he named Adventure Bay. He explored a part of the coast, but saw no inhabitants ; although their fires were perceived in various parts, and some of their rude bee-hive huts were met with in Adventure Bay. Some small islands were discovered on the east side of Van Diemen's Land, and named Fur- neaux's Isles. Van Diemen's Land, like New Zealand, had been discovered by Tasman, in 1642 ; yet it was still uncertain, whether it foniied the extremity of New Holland, or not. Capt. Fur- neaux, as well as Capt. Cook, was prevented by contrary winds from ascertainirg the point ; but he ■ sailed northward till he saw a part of New Hol- *fl land, lying about 39° S. latitude ; and the impres- sion on his mind was, that a deep bay, and not a strait, intei-vened between that point and Van Diemen's Land. He arrived off Cape Farewell in New Zealand, on the 3rd of April ; but, the wind being unfavourable, it was not till Wednesday the 7th that he anchored safely in Ship Cove, Queen Charlotte's Sound. Here Capt. Furneaux and his people waited the arrival of the Resolution, enjoy- ing the refreshments which the place afforded, and having tents on shore on the island of Motuara, and an insulated Heppah adjacent. They had - enjoyed friendly intercourse with the natives, who 1 remembered the Endeavour, and made particular inquiries after Tupia, at the news of whose death they expressed much concern. -s: srsi ii' CHAPTER XI. Rcfresliinents obtained in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Means used to 8tocl( the country with useful animals and vegetables. Friendly visits of the natives: their migratory habits. Both ships sail from New Zealand to the S. and E. Sickness on board the Adventure ; healthy state of the Resolution's crew. Several islands discovered. Arrival at Otaheite. Dangers incurred in approaching the southern peninsula. Trade with the natives. Visit to King Waheatua. Remo- val to Matavai. Friendly trade and intercourse with King Otoo and his people. Passage to Iluahine. Large supplies obtained through the warm friendship of King Oree. Thefts committed by the natives. Omai taken on board the Ad- venture. Visit to Ulietea. Kindness of Oreo and his people. A false alarm among them. Plentiful supply of refreshments. Oedidee taken on board the Resolution. After the arrival of the Resolution at Ship Cove, Capt. Cook, knowing- where scurvy-grass, celery, and other wholesome vegetables, were to be found, and ever anxious for the health of his crew, set out early the very next morning to procure a supply ; and having returned at breakfast time with a boat load, gave directions for boiling fresh vegetables, along with wheat, pease, and portable broth, for the crews of both ships, at their different meals. The vessels being both in good order, and the peo- ple healthy, our navigator prepared to set out on further researches, and gave Capt. Fumeaux in- structions to get ready for sea. In the mean time, both Captains, with a laudable view to increase the comforts of the natives, as well as to provide ■ l QUEEN CHARLOTTE S SOUND. 141 supplies for future voyagern, endeavoured to stock the country with useful animals and vef?etahles. Several gardens had already been planted by Capt. Furneaux, in which potatoes, turnips, carrots, and parsneps, were now thriving, particularly on Mo- tuara : and Capt. Cook j)lanted another garden on Long Island. The uses of these vegetables were pointed out to some of the natives, who seemed pleased with the prospect of these new supplies of food. Capt. Cook set on shore a pair of goats, and Capt. Furneaux a boar and two breeding sows; leaving them in retired spots, without inibraiing the natives, that they might breed and multiply in the woods undisturbed. A ram and a ewe, the only survivors out of the live stock bought at the Cape, were also put on shore from the Resolution ; but both were soon after found dead, having pro- bably eaten some poisonous plants. The Adventure's people had reported, that some New Zealanders had offered their children for sale ; but Capt. Cook discovered, that the children had been brought, only with a view to their receiving presents. One day a man brought his son on board the Resolution, and presented him to the Captain ; who was made to understand, that he wanted to have a white shirt. The request being granted, the boy went all over the ship, shewing his new dress. This freedom offended Old Will, the ram goat, then on board, who giving him a butt with his horns, knocked him backward on the deck. Will would have repeated the blow, had not some peo- ple come to the boy's assistance. The shirt being dirtied by this adventure, the boy was sadly afraid to face his father in the cabin, till introduced by Mr. Foi*ster ; when he preferred a heavy com}>laint :\ I 142 COOKS SKCONI) VOYA(jr.. u}»;ainst (M)iirov. tlie j;freat i\o'^, as ho calltnl ilio j^oat ; and could not be paciliod, till the shirt was washed and dried tor him. 'J'lie do};' heiuj;- the princij)al beast in New Zealand, the natives appli- ed tlu^ term to every reatly alarmed, and wanted tbe IJritisb to fire on them, as they w ere their enemies. Ikit the Captain, on the contrary, invited the strangers on board ; and tbeir chief, after performin{^ the usual ceremo- nies, came into the ship with some of bis j)eople ; when peace was immediately established on all sides. About an hundred of this new tribe, with six canoes, beinp; at Motuara, the Captain, with Mr. Foi-ster and othei-s, went in a boat to visit them, and met with a very friendly reception. Some presents were ^\\en them, and their attention was directed to the g;ardens planted on the island. The party soon returned on board, where they spent the remainder of the 4th, being His Majesty's birth- day, in festivity. Capt. Furneaux and his officers were entertained on board the Resolution, and the crews of both ships had a double allowance, that tiiey might participate in the general joy. \\ f s i !■■ Ql!F,KT. CIIAIlL()TTi:S SOUND. 143 It is rcmjirkablo, that while almost o.very family and tiihe that visited the shij> inquired (or Tiifiia, and shewed that they knew the value of the articles iaJ w mL':'j «Sr J J 150 COOK S SECONO VOVAGE. ' r 1 created on shore, in the evening- of August 30th, by some seamen and marines ; when alanii was spread among the inhabitants, and the timorous King- fled several miles from his house ; but the oftenders were taken and punished, and the King was brought back. On tuesday the 31st, the Captains and their friends paid him a final visit, when he received from Capt. Cook three Cape wethers. Capt. Fur- neaux had previously given him a pair of goats, male and female. He now sent for three hogs, as presents to the Captains and Mr. Forster ; and one of the three being noticed as small, it was exchang- ed for a larger. Otoo embraced Capt. Cook several times at parting, and seemed much moved. A few more hogs were obtained from Potatow, a friendly chief, and from Oamo. On visiting the latter, Lieut. Pickersgill saw his wife Oberea, once venerated as Queen of the island, but now grown old, poor, and of little consequence. "When the ships were about to sail, a young man named Poreo offered to go in the Resolution ; but after he had got an axe and a spike nail for hi8 pretended father, another person came to demand him. The Captain perceiving that a trick had been played, kept him on board. A Spanish ship, which had visited Otaheite three months before the arrival of the Resolution and Adventure, had taken away four of the natives. The tents having been taken down, and the sick, who had greatly recovered, being received on board, our navigators quitted Otaheite, on Wednesday, September 1st, and on the 3rd they arrived at the harbour of Owharre ( or Fare ) in Huaheine. Here they met with a kind reception, and purchased a f 1 I HUAH£IN£. 151 t 30th, m was morous but the e King id their eceived pt. Fur- )f goats, hogs, as and one jxchang- k several ved. A tatow, a iting the rea, once >w grown )ung man tion ; but lil for his ) demand trick had ,nish ship, before the had taken id the sick, I on board, ednesday, ived at the ine. Here urchased a plentiful supply of hogs, fowls, and fruit. King Oree was stUl alive, and hastened to meet with his friend. The Captains and Mr. Forster were intro- duced to him with much ceremony. Five young plantain trees were carried into the boat, with three young pigs and a dog; and lastly, the pewter plate with the inscription, left in 1769, which with some beads and a counter had been carefully preserved in a bag. In return, three young plantain trees were, at the desire of their guide, decorated with looking- glasses, nails, medals, and beads ; and, with these in their hands, the three visitors advanced towards the King, an avenue being made for them to pass through the crowd. The plantains were taken from their hands, and laid one by one before the King ; the first being said to be for Eatoua — " God," the next for Earee—" the King," and the third for Taya — " friendship." These ceremonies being ended, Oree advanced to Capt. Cook, fell on his neck, and affectionately embraced him ; while the tears that trickled copiously down his venerable old cheeks, bespoke the language of his heart. Through the kindness of this worthy chief and his people, not less than 300 hogs were procured by gift or pur- chase, with great quantities of excellent fruits and roots. The exchange of names between him and the Captain was considered as stiU existing ; and every day he sent, for the table of his friend, a plentiful supply of the very best fruits and roots, ready drest. Notwithstanding the warm friendship of the King, some of his subjects shewed a very different spirit. On monday, September 6th, a chief com- pletely equipped in his war habits, was very trouble- some and insolent at the trading place; which L'sate? ii) I I (I 1', m 152 COOK S SECOND VOYAfiE. Copt. Cook observing, took from him his two clubs, bioke them before his eyes, and forced him to retire. A guard was then placed here, to prevent further insults. On the same day, Mr. Sparrman having' imprudently gone out alone botanizing, was assault- ed by two men, who stripped him of every thing except his trowsers, and struck him repeatedly with his own hanger. Another of the natives gave him a piece of cloth to cover him, and conducted him to the trading place. His appearance in this pitiful plight, filled the nniives with alarm for the conse- quences; so that I y all fled from the spot. The Captain recalled a fiew of them, and assured them, that such as were innocent of the crime that had been committed, had nothing to fear. He then repaired to the King, to complain of the outrage, taking with him the man who brought back Mr. Sparnnan. The good King wept aloud at the re- cital of the robbery, as did many of his attendants. He then expostulated with his people who were present, on the disgrace of this transaction, re- minding them that Oree (for so he named Cook) had behaved towards them with much kindness, both now, and on his former visit. Having taken an inventory of the articles seized by the robbers, he hastened to set out with Capt. Cook in pursuit of them ; and in spite of the earnest entreaties and tears of his people, who dreaded his putting him- self in the power of our navigator, he resolutely stepped into the boat, while his weeping subjects were ready to pull him back by force. The Cap- tain, under these circumstances, was reluctant to take him ; but he insisted on going. They landed on a part of the coast where the robbers were sup- posed to be skulking; but after travelling some n ■■K I HUAHEINE. 153 retire, iirther laving' 3sault- thing y with ve him him to pitiful conse- , The i them, I at had then )utrapfe, ck Mr. the re- sndants. bo were ion, re- 1 Cook) indness, ig taken robbers, I pursuit itaes and ing him- Bsolutely subjects ?he Cap- ictant to y landed vere sup- ng some miles into the country, without overtaking them, the Captain determined on returning, and the King, with great reluctance, consented to give up the pursuit. On regaining the boat, they found Oree's sister at the place, and some others who had come hither by land. His sister, as well as he, insisted on returning in the boat, notwith- standing the tears and entreaties of their friends ; and the Captain rewarded their confidence in him by liberal presents. They were set ashore in safety at Owharre, where hundreds welcomed their ar- rival, and many embraced their King with tears of joy. Mr. Sparrman's hanger, and part of his coat, v/ere soon after restored; with some things that had been stolen from a shooting party. The Captains and Mr. Forster paid the King a farewell visit, on tuesday, the 7th ; when along with other presents, there was given him a copper plate, inscribed, "Anchored here. His Britannic Majesty's Ships Resolution and Adventure, September 1773." The pewter plate was also returned, and both were put in a bag, with some medals, to be carefully preserved, and shewn to future visitors. He gave them presents in return, and embraced Capt. Cook at parting, with tears in his eyes. He afterwards came on board, to beg them to go ashore, and see punishment inflicted on the robbers, who had just been apprehended; but the vessels being under way, the invitation was declined. He went out with them full half a league, when again taking an affectionate leave of the Captain, he returned in his canoe, with but one attendant, all the rest having gone long before. — At this place, Capt. Fumeaux took on board the Adventure a young man named Omai, a native of Ulietea, where he it fl t! K )i II ld4 CUOKS S£COND VOYAGE. had had some property, of which he had been dis- possessed by the men of Bohibola. Tlie ships anchored in the harbour of Ohamane- no, in Ulietea, on Wednesday morning. Here also our people were kindly treated, and had the offer of more hogs and fruit than they could take. The inquiries after Tupia, were far more frequent here than at Huaheine, or Otaheite. Mr. Banks wa» every where inquired after. Oreo, the chief of this part of the island, an old acquaintance of Capt, Cook, gave him and his companions a welcome reception ; and, as the strongest pledge of friend- ship, exchanged names with him. He treated him and his friends with a heiva more than once. Many presents were interchanged, and much trade was carried on. On tuesday, the 14th, the Cap- tains, with other officers and gentlemen, from both ships, dined with Oreo, on baked hogs, bread-fruit, and other native provisions, all excellently and cleanly dressed. Aft«r they had dined, the boat's crew, and native attendants, consumed what was left ; and the common people were eager to pick up the crumbs that had fallen among the leaves which served for a table-cloth. The poor were observed to have very indifferent fare : several of them daily attended the ships, and assisted the butchers, to obtain from them the entrails of the hogs. Oh Wednesday, the 15th, the natives discovered unaccountable terror and sorrow: Oreo and his family fled from their house, and the whole neigh- bourhood was in a manner deserted. The few who durst venture near, spoke with strong symptoms of fear, about guns, and about people killed and wounded. Capt. Cook, unable to divine the cause .. s ULIETEA. \65 of this alarm, and afraid that some disaster had befallen Lieut. IMckersjpU and two boats crews, whom he had sent to Otahato purchase a sea stock of bananas and plantains, resolved to see Oreo, and inquire what had happened. Taking a boat with some of his people, and a native, he rowed to the northward, and soon came in sight of Oreo's canoe. The chief landed, and the Captain followed him; a crowd being on the shore encouraging him to land. Here he first met the chiefs wife, a venerable old lady, who threw herself into his arms, and wept bitterly. Oreo, in like manner, as soon as the Captain reached him, threw his arms about him, and burst into tears ; while the women, and almost all around, joined him in loud lamentations. The Captain looked on with amazement, unable to account for this universal grief, or to get a word of explanation on the subject. At last upon close inquiry he discovered, that all this alarm and grief had arisen from the absence of the two boats crews ; it was supposed that they had deserted, and that hostilities would be carried on against the whole island till they were recovered. The Captain dispelled their feara, by assuring them that the boats had gone by his orders, and would soon return. He then came on board, accompanied by some of the natives, who proclaimed the peace to all whom they saw, in rowing along the shore. At this time, Poreo, the Tahitian youth who had come hither in the Resolution, having conceived an attachment to a young woman whom he met here, went away with her, and returned no more. His place was more than supplied by Oedidee, a young man of 17 or 18 years, a native df Bolabola, and a near relation of the great Opoony, the King n«MH Ui h ■« I fij !., Pi. 156 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. of that island ; whom Capt. Cook received on board the Resolution, in preference to several other na- tives who begged to accompany him. The boats having returned from Otaha, well laden with plantains, our navigators having now obtained here abundant supplies of fresh pro- visions, including no less than 400 hogs, resolved to set sail. On friday, September 17th, they took their leave of Oreo and his son, who came on board for that purpose. Mutual presents and expres- sions of kindness were interchanged; the chief begging Captain Cook to return, and requesting him to say when he would renew his visit. Such questions were often put to our kind hearted navi- gator : it was with regret that those who knew his worth consented to part with him ; and they usually sought to alleviate the sorrows of parting, by the hope of reunion. !|| li h oard na- well now pro- )lved 1 took toard 1 pres- ' chief , sting Such navi- w his 1 ually y the CHAPTER XII. Hervey's Island discovered. Arrival at Eaoowee. Friendly reception there, and at Tongatahoo. Services of Attago. Copious supplies obtained. Stupidity of the Areeke, or King. Passage to New Zealand. Resolution and Adventure part- ed in stormy weather. Arrival of the Kesolution in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Friendly intercourse with the natives. Capt. Cook's cure to stock the country with useful animals and vegetables. Shocking instance of cannibalism witnessed. Healthful state of the crew of the Resolution, which prose- cutes the voyage to the Antarctic regions without the Ad- venture. Approach to the South Pole. Return northward. Plans formed by the Captain: his sickness and recovery. Having taken their departure from Ulietea, on friday, September 17th, our voyagers steered a westerly course, inclining to the south. On the 23rd, an island, or cluster of islets, was discovered, and named Hervey's Island. It abounded with cocoa-nut trees, but no inhabitants were seen. From thence they pursued their course, till on friday, October 1st, they arrived at Middleburg, or Eaoowee, one of the group discovered by Tas- man, in It)4.J, which Capt. Cook afterwards named the Eriendly Islands. At Middleburg, the natives came boldly along- side in canoes, and some of them came on board, before the ships anchored in what was hencefoi^^h called J^iUglish Road. Among those who boarded the Resolution was a chief named Tioony, who 9^!^P 158 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. I Its ! him was highly pleased with a hatchet and other presents given him; and who accompanied the Captains and their friends to the beach, where an immense crowd, all unarmed, received them kindly, and promptly bartered pieces of cloth and matting, for nails and other articles. Some, indeed, handed bales of cloth into the boats, without waiting to receive any thing in return. Tioony conducted the visitors through the crowd to his own house, which stood at the head of a fine lawn, under the shade of some shaddock trees, commanding a most delightful view of the sea, and of the interesting scenery around. Here the natives were treated with a tune on the bagpipes ; and in return, three young women sung a song, and these receiving gifts, all the women present began to sing also. The strangera were then taken to another house of the chief, in an adjoining plantation ; where they were treated with bananas, cocoa-nuts, and a bowl of ava, prepared in their presence. Capt. Cook alone tasted the latter, which was brewed, as in other South Sea Islands, by the natives chewing the root, spitting out the juice into a bowl, and then diluting it with water. The party returned on board to dine, accom- panied by Tioony, who declined to partake. After dinner, they again went on shore with him; and while Mr. Forster and others were botanizing in the country, the Captains were conducted to Tioony's house ; where fruit and greens \rere set before them, to which Oedidee and Omai did ample justice. He then shewed them his rich and extensive plantations, all well laid out, neatly in- closed with reed fences, and planted with various fruit trees and roots. Hogs and large fowls were Hi" TONGATABOO. 159 ' i ■t seen near the houses, and in the lanes between the plantations ; but none were offered for sale. Next day, the Captains and their comrades, hav- ing taken a friendly leave of Tioony and his people, proceeded to the island of Amsterdam, or Tonga- taboo. Here their reception was equally agreeable. White flags were displayed along the shore, as emblems of peace ; many people came off to them in canoes, presented them with some ava root, and invited them ashore by friendly signs. When they had anchored in Van Diemen's Road, the natives crowded on board, and began to traffic with the seamen, by exchanging native cloth for some of their clothes. This barter being likely to hurt the seamen, and hinder the purchase of provisions, Capt. Cook prudently put a stop to it ; and the natives finding that nothing but eatables would be bought, brought plenty of fruit next day, with some pigs and fowls ; for which they received nails and pieces of cloth. Before our people had landed, a chief named Attago attached himself to Capt. Cook and ex- changed names with him. He proved of great service during the stay of the ships, attending the Captain from morning till night, and acting as a guide and agent in almost every transaction. The Captains and scientific gentlemen were received kindly on shore; and while the latter went into the country, the former, after stopping a short time on the beach, and distributing presents to those whom Attago pointed out as chiefs, some of whom were his superiors, rested under the shade of a tree, the natives forming a circle around them. The Captains expressing a desire to see the country, Attago led them along a lane, to an open green. -^ r'TSr HH 1.1 i 160 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. f (: V'l in ;* f .' .1 ' in front of an ajiatooca, or place of worship. It was a raised mount, with a house upon it, towards which three elderly men, sitting down on the green, directed a speech or prayer. On going to the house, which, like the dwelling houses, was con- structed with posts and rafters, and covered with palm thatch, the visitors observed two rude images within. Attago, when asked if they were gods, did not seem to understand the question; but as he tumbled them about very roughly, it did not ap- pear that they were viewed with much veneration. Similar structures were observed by our people, in their rambles through the island ; the whole of which they found in a high state of cultivation, abounding with the richest tropical fruits and vege- tables. The plantations were fenced with reeds, and intersected with narrow roads, generally shad- ed with trees. When the party had returned on board to dine, an old chief, superior to Attago, came on board, and tasted both fish and wine with them. After dinner, this chief, who went on shore before the officers, took a walk with them into the country. Before they set out, Mr. Wales, who had taken oft" his shoes and stockings, to wade asliore from tlie boat, had them snatched from him ; and being unable to pursue the thief along the sliarp coral rocks, was lell in an awkward predicament. Atta- go, however, soon found out the tlunl', and brought them back. The okl cliief shewed his visitors a pool of fn>i*h water, a scarce article in these islan'^s: and liaving conducted them down to the shore of Maria May, shewed them a large double canoe of his own, not yet launched. The canoes of these islanders wen*. l)etter constructed than those of 'fci' TONGATABOO. 161 f. It ;reen, the s con- i with mages is, did as he lot ap • jration. Lple, in liole of ivation, id vege- 1 reeds, [y shad- to dine, ^ board, . After jfore the country, taken off from the lul being jirp «'<>ral it. Atta- lI brought visitors a se islan'^s: e shore of ble tanoe 2S of these I those of Otaheite ; but their cloth was inferior. Their lan- guage was nearly the same, and their pereons were tattooed in a similar way. — The chief presented Capt. Cook with a hog; and many other hogs were purchased on that day and the following, with abundance of fruits and fowls. After this, the seamen were again permitted to traffic for curiosities; but various thefts and frauds were committed by the natives. In one instance, a thief was fired at, but not hurt. On Wednesday, October 6th, Capt. Cook and his friends were introduced to tlie Areeke, or King, of the island ; who sat before them with sullen and stupid gravity, neither answering their addresses, nor returning their salutes, nor noticing the pre- sents given him. lie sent on board, however, a quantity of excellent provisions, ready dressed, for the Areeke of the ship . On paying him a farewell visit next day, they found him in the same stupid posture, motionless as a statue, and seemingly unconscious of their attentions, their presents, and other objects around him. A friendly leave was taken of the old chief, and afterwards of Attago ; who beggsd that Capt. Cook would return, and bring him, among other things, a suit of clothes like his own uniform. In heaving the coasting cable of the Resolution, it parted in the middle, being chafed by the sharp coral rocks ; so that the anchor was lost, and half the cable. The supplies procured here, amounted to 130 hogs, 300 fowls, a few yams, and abundant supplies of bananas and cocoa-nuts. The natives of thosi! islands appeared to be well made and healthy. The females were generally modest, but lively and merry. Some cases of 12 rsp** 162 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. a loathsome disease being on board, Capt. Cook took all possible care to prevent it from being com- municated to the inhabitants. It would be well, if under all circumstances, our seamen were pro- hibited from that illicit intercourse with females, by which they have too often disgraced themselves in foreign lands. On quitting the Friendly Islands, Capt. Cook resolved to proceed direct to Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New Zealand ; and from thence set out again to prosecute his discoveries towards the south and east. It was on thursday, October 7th, that our mariners left Tongataboo; and on the 8th, they saw the island of Pilstart, also discovered by Tasman. On thursday, the 21st, they arrived off New Zealand, near that part of the coast which Capt. Cook first discovered. When they were near Cape Kidnappers, two canoes came off to them ; one containing some fishermen, who exchanged fish for some nails and pieces of cloth ; the other, two chiefs, who received some nails v/ith much eagerness. Capt. Cook committed to them some pigs, fowls, seeds, and roots, to stock this part of the country ; the people of which he considered as more civilized than those of Queen Charlotte's Sound. The chiefs promised to take care of the pigs and fowls, as well as to sow the seeds, and plant the roots. These people remembered the Endea- vour, and expressed their fears of the guns. After these men had left him, Capt. Cook pro- ceeded southward beyond Cape Turnagain, with a view to pass through Cook's Strait, and revisit Queen Charlotte's Sound. But very stormy and squally weather coming on, with adverse winds, and a iew intervals of calm, he was for some days I'' QUEEN CHARLOTTE S SOUND. 163 t. Cook ig com- be well, ;re pro- females, umselves )t. , Cook larlotte's e set out the south rth, that the 8th, vered by nived off a,st which were near to them ; xchanged the other, rlih much hem some lis part of isidered as Charlotte's :are of the 1, and plant the Endea- ms. . Cook pro- rain, with a and revisit stormy and erse winds, some days baffled in all his attempts to pass through the Strait; being sometimes driven out to sea, some- times to the south, and sometimes to the north. His difficulties were augmented by having fre- quently to wait for the Adventure, which liere, as in other parts of the voyage, was often a good way to leeward. Twice during these tempests, the ships lost sight of each other, but again joined. A third time, nowever, the Adventure disappeared during heavy gales at the entrance of the Strait, and was no more seen, Capt. Cook would have steered into a large bay, in the southern division of New Zealand, had the Adventure been with him ; but Queen Charlotte's Sound was their ap- pointed rendezvous. He anchored two hours at an inlet, where some natives came off, and received with avidity a few nails that were given them; but seemed very indifferent about two couples of ^owls, that were committed to their charge, with a view to stock that part of New Zealand. At length, on the 3rd of November, the Resolution was safely moored in Ship Cove ; but the Adven- ture, which was supposed to have got there first, had not arrived. The sails and rigging having been much damag- ed by the recent gales, measures were promptly taken for repairing them. Tents were erected for the sailmakers and coopers; and the smith's forge was set up. Fresh supplies of wood and water were taken on board ; the biscuit was aired and picked, that part which was wholly wasted being taken away, and that which was partially dariiaged being rebaked. Among the natives who now visited the ship, there were several whom Capt. Cook recollected to M 164 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. ¥. have seen in his first voyage ; particularly an old man named Goubiah. He was reported to have killed the goats that were put on shore up the sound; although, according to other statements, they were still alive. The youngest of the two sows, left by Capt. Furneaux, was found alive among these people, who intimated that the boar and the other sow were preseiTed elsewhere. The gardens were found in a flourishing state, the na- tives having touched nothing except the potatoes. As these people appeared to take care of the ani- mals left with them, the Captain now gave them a boar and a young sow, along with some fowls. The traffic carried on with the natives at this time was principally for fish, which they were much more dexterous in catching than our people. Some petty thefts were committed ; and the Cap- tain was one day much amused in observing, that a chief who pretended to keep off the people, and prevent them from stealing, contrived to pick his pocket of a handkerchief; and then professed his innocence of the theft, till the handkerchief was taken out of his bosom, when he put it off with a laugh. Six small casks having been stolen from the watering place on the morning of the 7th, the natives, dreading the consequences, all decamped. Some of them, however, returned on the 10th, and the traffic in fish was resumed. Green talc was also an article of traffic, pieces being purchased by the seamen as curiosities. On monday, the 15th, the Captain, with Mr. Forster and others, ascended a hill which he had climbed in 1 770, to look out for the Adventure ; but nothing was seen of her. He therefore resolved to proceed on his voyage without her, after waiting QUEEN CHARLOTTES SOUND. Ift5 an old have ip the ments, le two alive le boar The the na- otatoes. ;he ani- them a vis. at this ly were people, he Gap- ing, that pie, and pick his 3ssed his hief was ff with a len from i 7th, the scamped. 1 0th, and talc was ;hased by with Mr. h he had dventure ; e resolved er waiting a few days longer. In the mean time, his anxiety to benefit the country by stocking it with useful animals, was still displayed. He put on shore in the woods, at the bottom of the West Bay, a boar and three sows, with food to serve them for several days; that they might not come down to the shore in search of food, and be discovered by the natives. Some fowls were left in the same quarter, and others in the woods at Ship Cove. A pair of goats would also have been left ; but the he goat when on shore was seized with fits, and running oflf along the beach, was irrecoverably lost, being supposed to have been drowned in the sea. The boatswain and a party, being in the woods cutting broom, found a private hut of the natives, containing their most valuable property received from the liritish : and the natives having come to the Captain, complaining that some of these trea- sures had been stolen, the man whom they pointed out as the thief, was punished before them. On the same day, some officers visiting the huts of the natives, found some human thigh bones from which the flesh had been recently picked. Next day, some of the officers going ashore to amuse themselves among the people, saw the head and bowels of a youth who had been lately Jdlled, lying on the beach, and the heart stuck on a forked stick, fixed to the head of a large canoe. The head was purchased and brought on board, where a part of the flesh was broiled and eaten by one of the natives, before all the officers, and most of the men. The Captain was then absent, and when he re- turned on board, he was struck with horror, min- gled with indignation, at the sight of the head, and the recital of the circumstances. But curiosity It, ( h' 'It IGfi COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. got the better of his indignation ; and desiring to be an eye witness of what had been doubted by his countrymen at home, he ordered a piece of the flesh to be broiled and brought on the quarter deck, where it was devoured by one of these cannibals with surprising avidity. Many on board were made sick by the shocking spectacle. Oedidee stood for some time petrified with horror, and when aroused from this state of stupor, he burst into tears, and wept and scolded by turns, calling them vile men, to whom he could no longer be a friend. He would not suffer them to touch him; and looked with disgust even on the knife that had cut the human flesh, and the gentleman who had used it. It was understood that these natives had made an expedition into Admiralty Bay, to the west- ward ; where, among others, this youth had been killed by them in liattle. On the 24th, some of the gentlemen revisiting the spot, saw the heart still stuck on the canoe, and the intestines lyin;. m the beach ; except the liver and lungs, supposed to have been eaten, afler the rest of the carcase had been devoured. While the Resolution lay here, the ship's com- pany were well supplied with fresh vegetables; and the pork salted at Ulietea, and covered with pickle, was still excellent. Not an individual was now sick. Having taken every thing on board, our navi- gator sailed on thursday, the 25th ; afler deposit- ing in the garden at the Cove, under the root of a tree, a bottle containing a letter to Capt. Fur- neaux, and inscribing on the stump of the tree the words " Look beneath." By this prudent device, Capt. Fumeaux, who arrived only five days afler. I I tii. A ANTARCTIC SEAS. 167 ing to ted by of the r deck, rinibalB emade cod for iroused rs, and 6 men, d. He looked cut the ised it. d made west- id been some of eart still on the [ to have ad been p's com- ^etables ; red with iual was lur navi- deposit- 5 root of ipt. Fur- j tree the it device, lys after. i i was made acquainted with Capt. Cook's intended course. In })assing through Cook's Strait on the 25th and 26th, signal guns were tired from time to time, by the Resolution, in the hope that they might be heard and answered by her consort, if she had put into some creek or cove on either coast. It was after- wards found, that the Adventure, which had been driven out to sea, and subsequently put into Tola- ga Bay for wood and water, came into the Strait, only three or four days after the Resolution passed it. Captain Cook, however, having now waited longer than the time appointed, without seeing any thing of the Adventure, resolved to prosecute his voyage towards the Antarctic regions with the Kksolution alone ; and his officers and men had sucii entire confidence in his skill and talents, that not a man was d«yected; all proceeded on this voyage with as mu<;h cheerfulness as if the Adven- ture had been in c npany. Taking their dep. "lure fro/a Cape Palliser, on friday the 26th, our V(vagers advanced to the south and east; and on monday, December 6th, they reckoned themselves antipodes to their friends in London, Pursuing their course amidst variable weather, they saw the first iceberg on fhe 12th ; being then in lat. 62° 10' S. long. 172° W. Here also they began to meet with the antarctic petrel, and other birds peculiar to the icy regions near the pole. Advancing southward till they reached 66* lat. on th'^ 15th, they incurred no small danger, in workii^j.' I.;; • way among innumerable icebergs, and mai :f s -f loose ice, pieces of which were taken on boart' ij melt for fresh water. Their perils were often increased by thick foggy weather, and Ai IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) / A / z 4i V, 1.0 I.I 11.25 U il.6 6" V3 ^ ^> cm*. > > V ScMices Corporation li WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 iV :1? \\ 9) V ^ 168 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. lil 1 'f 1 1 BH I JE ': I w ■i m 1 i dl showers of snow ; which made it necessary to steer with much caution. To lessen their danger, . they returned a little towards the north, and then stretched to the east; hut tb weather clearing up, they again resumed a sou. erly course, and crossed the antarctic circle once more, on monday the 20th. They now met with islands of ice, lofty and rugged, with numerous peaks; and on the 23rd, the cold being most intense, the ropes were glazed over with ice, the sails were stiff like boards, and the shivers frozen in the blocks. They had now reached 67° 20' S. lat., and in this dismal region they spent their Christmas, amidst numer- ous islands of ice, about 100 being ther in sight. The number of icebergs and masses of ice appear- ing still greater on the 26th, it was found neces- sary again to take a more northerly course ; and after reaching 134° 17' W. long.. Captain Cook turned back towards the N.W., resolving to move in a zigzag couree, in different latitudes, that no considerable country or island, in those seas, might escape discovery. On monday, Jan. 3rd, 1774, he attained 140° 31' W. long., and 56° S. lat., when contrary winds obliged him to turn, and steer towards the N.E. In this direction he persevered till tuesday, the 11th ; when, being in lat. 47° 51' S., long. 122° 12' W., he altered his course, and advanced towards the S.E. On the 20th, he was again among icebergs, in lat. 62° 34' ; one of them was large and lofty, not less than 200 feet high, terminating in a peak resembling the cupola of St. Paul's. After steering eastward to 108° 7' W. longitude, our navigator finding the weather bright, and the sea clear of ice, again advanced towards the south, and on the 26th recrossed the antarctic APPROACH TO THE SOUTH POLE. 169 to steer danger, . id then jlearing Be, and nonday 36, lofty on the es were I boards, hey had I dismal nuraer- in sight. appear- 1 neces- ■se ; and in Cook to move , that no LS, might d, 1774, ' S. lat., and steer 3rsevered .47° 51' irse, and , he was } of them eet high, ola of St. B° rw. er bright, 1 towards antarctic circle ; where islands of ice again appeared, and small masses were taken on board for a supply of fresh water. Notwithstanding the increase of ice- bergs, and occasional fogs, he persevered in his course, till he reached the latitude of 71° 10' ; a much higher south latitude than any navigator had hitherto attained. His progress was then arrested by a compact field of ice, ranging east and west, from which a reflected light illuminated all the southern half of the horizon. From this vast field, mountains of ice rose in various places, to a height far beyond what our mariners had ever seen or heard of. This icy continent, Capt. Cook con- sidered as probably extending to the south pole, or its vicinity, where it might be joined to land inaccessible to man. And now, having got as near to the south pole as it seemed possible to reach, he tacked and stood towards the north, amidst variable weather. During his progress northward, our navigator was employed in arranging plans for the further prosecution of his voyage ; and these were formed on a scale proportioned to the grasp of his own gigantic mind. He* determined to go in search of the land said to have been discovered by Juan Fernandez, about the latitude of 38° S., and next proceed to visit Easter Island, or Davis's Land ; then, to get within the tropics, visiting various islands, to ascertain correctly their positions ; and, having stopped at Otaheite, where the Adventure might have touched, to run westward as far as the Tierra austral del Espiritu Santo of Quiros ; and thence advance to the south, and afterwards to the east, so as to be as far as Cape Horn in November, with a view to employ the southern summer in "gmp 170 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. 11 % 5: exploring the South Atlantic ocean. These plans^ vast as they were, met the hearty approbation of the gentlemen on board ; and even the seamen, who were all in excellent health, having only felt slight colds occasionally since they left New Zea- land, were far from being dissatisfied with the prospect of being another year on the voyage, and were now cheered with the hope of enjoying within the tropics the benefits of a milder climate. Such, indeed, were the conmianding talents and high character of our hero, that all on board were ready to adopt his plans, and prompt to fulfil his wishes : and they seemed to catch from him something of that spirit of enthusiasm for discovery, which in- spired him with conceptions so large, urged him on in his noble career, and made dangers and diffi- culties to vanish before him. After encountering some violent storms, our navigator carefully searched for the land said to have been seen by Juan Fernandez; but found nothing in or near the place where it had been laid down. He therefore concluded, that, if any such discovery ever was made, it must be only a very small island. In proceeding from hence in search of Easter Island, the Captain was taken seriously ill of a bilious cholic, which confined him to his bed for several days. On this occasion, Mr. Patten, the surgeon, not only acted the part of a skilful physi- cian, but of an affectionate nurse. When patients begin to recover their appetite, singular fancies will sometimes seize them ; and when the Captain began to be convalescent, he took a fancy to have Mr. Forster's favourite dog killed for him, there being no other fresh meat on board; and he THE captain's SICKNESS AND RECOVERY. 171 relished both the flesh and the broth, which con- tributed to restore his health and strength. Some fresh fish, caught at the time, proved also of ser- vice. During the Captain's illness, Lieut. Cooper conducted the ship, and every tiling went on in due order. mmmmm !l I; ^ I; n i' % i ! ' ii I, b i CHAPTER XIII. ArriTal at Easter Island. Friendly reception : tour througfi the island. Few refreshments got. Voyage to the Mar- quesas, and incidents there. A thief unfortunately shot. Notices respecting the inhabitants. Other islands visited, or observed. Arrival at Otaheite: kindness of Otoo and bis people : improved state of the country. Large fleet of canoes. Friendly conduct of Towha, the Admiral, and other chiefs. A thief punished by Capt. Cook in the presence of Otoo. Small fleet reviewed. Musket stolen, and recovered. Liberal supplies of provisions. Another fleet of canoes. Affectionate parting with Otoo and his friends. Remarks on the population ot Otaheite. Visit to Huaheine : kindness of King Oree. Robberies committed. An armed party sent into the country to check them. Dramatic representa- tions. Arrival at Ulietea. Friendly behaviour of Oreo and his family. Native plays and entertainments. Visit to- Oedidee's paternal estate. Affectionate parting with Oreo, and other natives ; especially with Oedidee, who left the Resolution on its departure from Ulietea. On monday, March 1 1th, Easter Island came in sight; and in the evening of the 13th, the Resolution anchored opposite a sandy beach on the west side of the island. As the ship approached the land, two natives came off in a canoe; and, after present- ing a bunch of plantains, returned ashore. Soon after, another native visited the ship, and came on board, where he remained two nights and a day. The first thing he did on entering, was to measure the length of the ship by fathoming her ; and it was observed, that in counting the fathoms he made use of the Tahitian numerals, though in other respects the language of the natives differed consi- EASTER ISLAND. 173 party yM ■'*» derably from that of Otaheite ; so that even Oedi- dee understood it very imperfectly. When the Captain and some of his people landed on the 14th, hundreds of the natives, all unarmed, welcomed them ashore. Having distri- buted among them some beads and trinkets, he made signs for something to eat ; on which they brought a few potatoes, plantains, and sugar-canes; and exchanged them for nails, looking-glasses, and pieces of cloth. In carrying on this trade, they soon betrayed an inclination to cheat and to steal ; so that our mariners were forced to be on their guard. Several European articles were seen among them, which they had procured from a Spanish ship that visited them in 1769. Some parts of the island appeared naked and barren; in other places there were plantations of vegetables; but there were no forests to yield supplies of wood, and all the water found near the shore was brackish. Next morning. Lieutenants Pickersgill and Edg- cumbe set out with a party to examine the country, while the Captain, on account of his recent illness, remained at the landing place, where a brisk traf- fic for provisions was carried on with the natives. The party were preceded in their excursion by a middle-aged chief, well tattooed, and having his face painted with a sort of white pigment. He bore in his hand a spear, with a piece of white cloth on it, as an ensign of peace. They visited several of those stone platforms, with colossal statues, first described in Roggewin's Voyage ; and found most of them in ruins, with the statues laid prostrate. Some of the latter, measured by Mr. Wales, were from 15 to 27 feet long ; and a few of those that were standing appeared much taller. In crossing I 'I I ) OTAHEITE. — THIEF PUNISHED. 181 n opportu- the naval turned out, at Oparree, quantity of on shore, s. Towha I with him le cause of oe. These ptain paid 1, attended sent in the liled to the is servants, L present to ke nothing ok another it Otoo and • the King's 1, on seeing ;truck with I took great the vessel, o was the le well ac- Powha, be- privately, ned a little him with plain's aid re now at no counte- On the 28th, Waheatua, King of Tiarabu, sent a present of a hog, desiring a few red feathers in return; and these, with some other things, were accordingly sent him. Next day, Otoo, Towha, and several other gran- dees, came on board with valuable presents of provisions and curiosities ; and at this time Towha, as well as the rest, accepted liberal returns. On this day, a remarkable occurrence took place. One of the natives, having been caught in the act of stealing a water-cask the night before, was now in irons on board, where the visitors saw him. His crime was stated to them; yet the King begged that he might be set at liberty. The Captain re- plied, that he punished his own people when they stole from the Tahitians, and was determined that this man should not escape ; and as he knew that Otoo would not punish him, he was resolved to do it himself The man was accordingly taken ashore, and tied up to a post, attended by the guard under arms. Otoo, with his sister and others, now begged hard for the culprit's release, while Towha remain- ed silent. The Captain expostulated with Otoo, on the bad conduct of this man, and others of his subjects, in stealing from the British, who had been their good friends, and took nothing from them without paying for it; he then plainly told the King, that this man must be made an example, to deter others from similar crimes, and thus prevent the loss of life ; because, if such practices continued, the thieves would very likely be shot dead. "^Yith these arguments Otoo appeared so far satisfied, that he now only requested that the culprit might not be killed. Upon this, the Captain, in the presence of a great crowd, which he commanded m^mm IN ; *■ 182 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. I}' ii ir f i to be kept at a proper distance, ordered the fellow two dozen lashes ; which he bore with great tirni- ness, and was then set at liberty. The King said nothing more ; but Towha addressed the people in a speech of nearly half an hour, delivered with much energy, and gracefulness of action : and in this harangue he ably seconded the views of Capt. Cook, condemning theft, and recommending ho- nesty. To strengthen the impression made on the multitude; the marines were ordered to go through their exercise, loading and firing in voUies with ball ; and as they were very quick in their manoeu- vres, it is easier to conceive tlian describe the amazement and awe produced by this exhibition. — The whole transaction illustrates that firmness of purpose, for which our navigator was distinguish- ed. It required no small vigour and decision, thus to inflict punishment on the subject of an inde- pendent prince, against his will, and in presence of a large concourse of his people. In the evening, Mr. Forster and the other natu- ralists returned from the mountains, where they had spent the preceding night. They had found several new plants, and enjoyed a most extensive view from the lofty peaks which they climbed, having seen the island Huaheine, which lies 40 leagues to the westward. Several other excursions of this kind were made during the ship's stay. Our navigator was happy to find, that the goats left here, by Captain Furneaux, had increased, and were likely to stock the island. The sheep, however, had all died but one. A stock of cats vi^as furnished, both to Otaheite, and to the Society Islands. On the 30th, Capt. Cook had an opportunity of E. ered the fellow ith great tirra- rhe King said I the people in delivered with iction : and in views of Capt. nmending ho- n made on the to go through n voUies with their manoeu- describe the ;his exhibition. ( that firmness ^as distinguish- 1 decision, thus ;t of an inde- ad in presence the other natu- where they had d found several extensive view [imbed, having s 40 leagues to irsions of this ay. , that the goats had increased, i. The sheep, L stock of cats [ to the Society opportunity of MUSKST STOLEN, AND RECOVERED. 183 seeing ten war canoes go through their paddling exercise; which was done with great expedition, although the vessels seemed to be but thinly man- ned with rowers. The warriors on the fighting stages encouraged the rowers to exert themselves ; while some youths sitting aloft in the curved stern, with white wands in their hands, were keeping a look out, and giving directions. Tarevatoo, who was present, desired that Mr. Hodges might be sent for, having observed that he made drawings of every thing curious. On the first two days of May, large supplies of provisions were received ; and these were the more welcome, as it was found, on examining the state of the biscuit, that much of it was rotten and use- less, and the rest required to be again aired and cleaned. The friendly intercourse between the British and the Tahitians, which had continued and in- creased since the punishment of the thief, was interrupted by another theft, committed in the night between the 7th and 8th of May ; when one of the sentinels on shore, having slept or quitted his post, his musket was carried off by one of the natives. This incident, as usual, created a general alarm, and put a stop to all trade in provisions. The Captain, to procure redress, sought an inter- view with Otoo ; but the latter had disappeared. He then detained five canoes, that the owners might I feel interested in the recovery of the musket; but I through the representations of Tee and Oedidee, t whose good faith, in reference to this matter, was suspected, the canoes were given up. Yet the mus- ket, and some other stolen articles, were brought to the tents in the dusk of the evening, by three men. 184 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. li who had pursued the thief, and taken them from him. They received u reward ; and not a few, desiring to share with them, pretended to have taken part in recovering the stolen property. One man, named Nuno, claimed the honour of having alone killed the thief; and assuming a fierce coun- tenance, laid about him with his club, to shew how he had despatched him; although it was well known, that Nuno had all the while been at home in his own house ! On the 9th, the Captain paid a visit to Otoo at Oparree. The King inquired why he fired at the canoes ; and the Captain, rather artfully, replied, that they belonged to Maritata, a Tiarabu man, one of whose people was said to have stolen the musket. Matters were soon made up by a few presents ; but, owing to some dissatisfaction on the purt of old Whappai, or Happi, the King's father, the provision market was not opened until tuesday, the 10th. On that day, Otoo was entertained by seeing the great guns fired from the ship, but felt more enjoyment in an exhibition of fire- works in the evening. Liberal supplies of fruit were sent on board next day, part of which came from Towha, now ill at Atahooroo. Oedidee was sent with his servants, to visit him with a present. On the 12th, the celebrated Oberea came with a present of hogs and fruit; and afterwards Otoo, with a great retinue, and a large quantity of provisions. The Captain treated them liberally, and entertained them at night with fire-works. The ship being now ready for sea, it was neces- sary for Oedidee to detemiine, whether he would proceed on the voyage with his English friends, or OTAHEITE. 185 them from not a few, ed to have erty. One • of having' ierce coun- ) shew how was well in at home to Otoo at ired at the ly, replied, irabu man, stolen the I by a few tion on the ng's father, til tuesday, Jrtained by ip, but felt •e-works in board next now ill at is servants, ! 12th, the Df hogs and lat retinue, he Captain d them at was neces- ■ he would friends, or remain ' at home. He was a great favourite on board, and many advised him to go to England, where he would become immensely rich, according to his ideas of riches. But the Captain told him, that if he went to England, he must make up his mind to abide there, in which case he might look upon him as a father. The youth threw his arms around him, and wept much ; but stated, that many of his friends wished him to remain at the islands. He was directed to consult with them, and having done so, he decided on remaining at home : yet Mr. Forster prevailed on him to go as far as Ulietea. Many youths at this time offered to go in the ship, to live and die in Pretanee (their name for Britain) ; and some gentlemen on board were desirous of supplying themselves with Tahitian servants ; but the Captain, knowing that they would be of little service on board, having no prospect of restoring thom to their country, and feeling the responsibility of taking pei*sons from their native place, whom he might afterwards find it impossible to take care of, stedfastly refused all such appli- cations. Otoo begged him to take some of his people to Tongataboo, to collect red feathers for him, willing to run the risk of their returning, or not; but to this proposal, also, he would not consent. On Saturday, the 14th, when the Resolution was about to sail, several chiefs, and their friends, came on board to take leave ; among whom was Towha, who being ill with swollen feet and legs, had come hither with great difficulty, from Atahooroo, and was hoisted into the ship. Parting presents were now interchanged ; and among those given to Towha, he set most value on an English pendant, the use of which was explained to him. When 186 COOKS S£COND VOYAGE. ! Jl ; ■ I :"?! ^! m'\\ ■<■' these friends had been dismissed, a fleet of canoe* was perceived coming round the point of Oparree ; upon which, Capt. Cook, and some of the office' s and gentlemen, hastened to Oparree to take a view of it ; and were gratified with observing the equip- ment and manoeuvres of the vessels, particularly their clever mode of landing. At the Captain's request, Otoo made some of the troops go through their exercise on shore ; and in this exhibition, the combatants shewed much dexterity in avoiding or parrying off the blows of their antagonists. The fleet of war canoes, forty in number, having de- parted, Otoo shewed his visitors one of his dock- yards, where two large pahies, or canoes, each 108 feet long, intended to make one double canoe, were now building. The king begged and received for this vessel a grappling and rope ; the Captain added also an English jack and pendant, and at his request the canoe was named Britannia. Otx)o and Tee accompanied his visitore on board the Resolution, to dinner ; afl;er which he . took an aflfectionate leave of them. He remained along- side in his canoe till the ship was under sail, when he put off", and was saluted with three guns. While the Resolution was leaving Matavai Bay, an Irishman, one of the gunner's mates, who had joined the Endeavour at Batavia, slipped over- board, to be taken up by a canoe, then waiting for him, according to a preconcerted plan, that he might settle on the island : but before he got clear of the ship, a boat was hoisted out, and took him up. As he had no near relations, the Captain was disposed to excuse him for wishing to remain in this delightful place ; and might have granted liis desire, had he applied at a proper time. HUAMEINE. 187 canoef )paiTee ; office' s e a view e equip- icularly aptain's through ion, the ding or The ing de- s dock- ich 108 canoe, received Captain , and at . Otoo ard the took an along- I, when ;. ai Bay, ho had 1 over- ling for that he 3t clear ok him lin was lain in ted his % In closing that part of his journal which relates to the visit now paid to Otaheite, his favourite island, the Captain makes various remarks on its form of government, on the different ranks or orders of society here, and on the amount of the population. Assuming, that each of the 43 dis- tricts in the island, might furnish, on an average, as many war canoes as Tettaha, which raised and equipped 40, and allowing 40 men as the crew of each canoe ; he thus calculates the number of able men at 68,000 ; and estimates the whole popula- tion at 204,000. These assumptions, however, are erroneous ; and the calculations founded on them far exceed the reality. When Capt. Wilson landed with the Missionaries in 1797, he estimated the population at only 16,000; and when the Mission- aries themselves, a few years after, made a more cor- rect census, they found the number to be only about 8,000. Now, although it is certain that, owing to the introduction of European diseases, the use of fire-arms and of ardent spirits, combined with de- structive wars, and the dreadful prevalence of in- fanticide, the population had rapidly declined afler the discovery of the island, — it is not credible, that in»less than thirty yeai-s the population should be reduced to only a twentieth part of what it was in the time of Cook, or not so much. It is gratifying to know, that since the Tahitians em- braced Christianity, which has checked the ravages of war and crime, their numbera are steadily in- creasing. On the 15th of May, the Resolution anchored in Fare harbour, in Huaheine ; where the good old King Oree gave our navigator a welcome reception. Much friendly trade, with interchange of presents 188 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. and entertainments, took place on the subsequent days ; but some things occurred, as at the last visit, to interrupt this agreeable intercourse. On the 16th, when Mr. Forster and his party were botanizing in the country, his servant was beset by five or six fellows, who took a hatchet from him, and would have stripped him of every thing, had not one of the party opportunely come to his assistance. Two days after, some of the petty officers having gone into the country for their amusement, with two muskets, took two natives to be their guides, and to carry their bags, containing nails, hatchets, &c. to trade with ; the treacherous guides, watch- ing their opportunity, when one musket had just been fired ofl[', and the other had repeatedly missed fire, ran oflf with the bags and all their contents. On the 20th, three officer set out on a shooting excursion, rather against the Captain's inclination ; and having offended some of the natives, the latter seized their guns, and a scuffle ensued ; but some chiefs interfering, the officers were rescued, and their property restored. On receiving intelligence of their being robbed, Capt. Cook landed with a boat's crew, and took possession of a large house, with all its effects, and two chiefs that were in it ; but when the officers returned safe, he quitted all, and went on board. As it appeared that a gang of fellows had asso- ciated, to rob all the British who came in their way, Oree, who had already given Capt. Cook peraiission to shoot the robbers, sent a message by Oedidee, on the 21st, requesting the Captain to land with 22 men, and go with him to chastise these marau- ders ; giving the bearer 22 pieces of leaves, that he might not forget the number. After visiting the HUAHEINE. 189 ubsequent last visit, 1 the 16th, )otanizing five or six nd would lot one of nee. Two ving gone with two r guides, hatchets, es, watch- had just ly missed contents, shooting clination ; the latter but some ued, and telligence id with a ge house, 3re in it; litted all, had asso- heir way, Jimission Oedidee, and with i marau- ;, that he iting the it }\ King in person, to converse with him on the object of the expedition, the Captain resolving to comply with his request, landed with 48 men, including officers and scientific gentlemen; and the chief having joined them with a few people, they march- ed in good order, in search of tiie banditti. As they proceeded, the chiefs party increased like a snowball ; when Oedidee began to be alarmed, and intimated, that some of the company were the very robbers they were going against ; and that the natives were designing to lead the British into some defile, where they might attack them with advantage. Hence, when the party, after marching several miles, were about to cross a deep valley, with steep rocks on each side, the Captain pru- dently declined going any further, especially as it was said that the robbers had fled to the mountains. The appearance of some armed parties coming down from the hills, who hid their arms in the bushes, when thev saw themselves observed, con- firmed the suspicions thrown out by Oedidee. The good King Oree was considered incapable of taking part in such base treachery ; but his people, who took advantage of his years and his feebleness, and often acted contrary to his wishes, might have formed such a wicked plot without his knowledge. When the party arrived at the landing-place, several vollies were fired in quick succession, by the Captain's orders, to impress the natives more forcibly with the power of their fire arms. The great guns had been fired on a former day, at Oree's request, to gratify his curiosity. Several peace- offerings of hogs and fruit, were sent as the result of this expedition. Abundant supplies of fruits were procured at this island ; but hogs were rather I . fit !i l' i',1 :|j 1 m 190 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. scarce. Red feathers were in less request than at Otaheite ; and it was necessary to set the smiths to work, to make nails and iron tools, to trade with ; this kind of stock being nearly exhausted. During their stay here, our people were some- times entertained by the natives with dramatic representations. In one instance, the piece repre- sented a young girl running away with the British from Otaheite. The incidents were founded on fact ; a young woman having taken a passage with them to Ulietea. She was present at the exhibition of her own adventures ; in which, among other things, her unfavourable reception by her friends on returning home, was set forth. The girl could not refrain from tears, and wanted to get away before the piece was concluded. It seemed meant as a rebuke to her, and a hint to their own females to beware of following her example. On this head, the gentlemen, as well as the girl, stood in need of a rebuke ; for, according to the captain's own ac- count, an infamous traffic in sin had been carried on by our people at Otaheite. A shirt was the usual price of prostitution : the girls went on board in rags in the evening, to return home clothed in the morning ; and to such an extent was this dis- graceful trade carried on, that several persons on board were not only stripped of all their shirts, but gave the girls shirts of Tahitian cloth, when their own were all gone. Such proceedings might well disgust even the heathen ; and it seems surprising that our navigator, who in some things was a strict disciplinarian, should tolerate practices so glaringly criminal. On monday. May 23rd, tlie Resolution sailed from Huaheine. Oree was the last native to leave 1 I ■I. i -^ i i \ ULIETEA. 191 st than at le smiths ade with ; 3re some- dramatic ce repre- e British nded on sag-e with xhibition ng other friends irl could et away d meant females lis head, need of own ac- carried was the m board )thed in this dis- sons on irts, but ;n their (■ht well rprising was a ices so sailed o leave the ship ; and when the Captain told him at part- ing, that he should see him no more, the affectionate old chief wept, and said, " Let your sons come ; we will treat them well." Next day, the Resolution entered a harbour in the south end of Ulietea ; and while the ship was warping in and mooring, which owing to adverse winds and the straitness of the entrance occupied some time, the chief Oreo, with several others, came on board to welcome their British visitors. When the Captain and his friends went on shore the day following, they were greeted with the most cordial salutations ; for, on entering the chief's house, they were met by four or five old women, weeping bit- terly, and cutting their heads with shark's teeth, till the blood ran down plentifully on their faces and shoulders. " What was still worse," says the Captain in his narrative, "we were obliged to sub- mit to the embraces of these old hags, and by that means we were all besmeared with blood. This ceremony ( for it was merely such ) being over, they went out, washed themselves, and immediately after appeared as cheerful as any of the company." After this affectionate reception at the house of the chief, they were welcomed by all the inhabitants of the place ; while multitudes crowded to see them from all parts of the island, and took up their quarters in the neighbourhood, where they remain- ed feasting for several days. The facts now stated, with others of the like kind, illustrate the uncertainty of computing the population of any of these islands, from the num- bers seen at any one point. Exempted from agri- cultural labours, and from the toil and confinement of any regular trade or business, these islanders i I 192 COOK S SIXOND VOYAGE. could quickly assemble in crowds, at any spot, to which curiosity, pleasure, or interest mifjlit draw them ; and could remain there, with little inconve- nience, lor days or weeks. The fertility and natural riches of their soil afforded them seasons of leisure, unknown in less fruitful countries. Why should they toil to make the oarth brinjf forth, When without toil she jjnve them all ihey wanted? The bread-fruit ripen'd, while they lay beneath Its shadow, in luxurious indolence; The rocoa fillM its nuts with milk and kernels. While they were saunterini; on the shores and niountnins; And while they glumber'd from their heavy meals, In dead forgetfulncss of life itself, The fish were spawning in unsounded depths. The birds were breedint; in adjacent trees. The game was fattening in delicious pastures, Unplanted roots were thriving under ground, To spread the tables of their future banquets ! The Resolution continued here ten days, during which, several excursions were made into the coun- try, particularly by Mr. Forster and the natural- ists ; many friendly visits passed between the captain and Oreo, and entertainments were mutu- ally given. Native plays were performed daily, in s> veral of which allusions were made to the British visitors. There were various theatres, and sets of performers. The only actress at Oreo's theatre was his daughter, a pretty brown girl, at whose shrine, on these occasions, many offerings were made by her numerous votaries. In one perfomiance, acted by a set of brawny fellows, the closing scene was the representation of a woman in labour, bringing forth a son ; and as the person representing the child had his nose pressed, as soon as he was taken hold of, it was inferred, that this people, like many of the African tribes, flatten the w i ULIETEA. 193 riy spot, to H«rlit draw le inconve- ftility and seasons of es. If forth, anted 2 ath ■Is. 1(1 nioiintairiH; incalH, !8, s! ays, during X) the coun- [,he natural- etween the were mutu- rmed daily, lade to the heatres, and ;s at Oreo's 3wn girl, at ny ofterings BS. In one fellows, the of a woman s the person ssed, as soon •ed, that this s, flatten the noses of their children at their birth ; which ac- counts for the fact, that these islanders, like the negroes, have generally riat noses. Mr. Forster, in one ot his excursions, saw a marai where dogs were bur ?d, probably those that were offered in sacrifice to their gods. In another place, four wooden images, each two feet long, were seen in the comer of a house, standing on a shelf. The friendly intercourse with the people of Ulietea was only once, and for a very short time, interrupted by a theft, when several articles were stolen from the boats. By the assistance of Oreo, all of them were recovered, except the iron tiller of the pinnace ; and for the loss of that, a trespass offering of two good hogs was received. On monday. May 30th, a visit was paid to the estate that belonged to Oedidee, now in the pos- session of his brother, who received a handsome present, and gave the Captain two hogs. One of these was killed and dressed for dinner in the native way, and aflTorded an excellent repast. Oedidee had promised his friends a large supply ; but was found to have lost his authority over his paternal inheritance. Indeed, in this his native island, he was treated with neglect; whereas, in Otaheite he was so much respected, that he might almost have commanded any thing he desired. While the Captain was preparing for his de- parture, much fruit was brought on board by the natives, and a brisk trade for hogs, as well as fruit, was carried on. Among the visitors was a young man who measured 6 feet 4i inches, while his sister measured 5 feet lOi inches. On the 2nd of June, a man pretended to bring news, that 14 ■pa 194 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. It two ships had arrived at Huaheine, one commanded by Mr. Banks, and the other by Capt. Fumeaux, whose persons were correctly described ; but it was soon found, that the whole account was a fabrica- tion. In the evening of that day, the natives were entertained with a display of fire-works. Saturday, the 4th, being the day appointed for sailing, the chiefs, and many others, came on board to take their last farewell. Oo-oo-rou, the heredi- tary King of the island, was of the number ; as well as Oreo, who was a kind of viceroy for Opoony the chief sovereign. Boba, the King, or viceroy, of Otaha, also accompanied them. Many presents were distributed among them. Oreo, and his wife and daughter, took a most affectionate leave of the Captain, with many tears. When the latter would not promise to return, the chief beg- ged to know the name of his marai (burial place) ; and when he replied " Stepney," he was desired to repeat the name till the natives could pronounce it ; and then. Stepney marai no Toote — " Stepney is the marai of Cook," was echoed through a hun- dred mouths at once. This inquiry on the part of Oreo was expressive of the warmest friendship ; he wished to know where the body of his friend would be laid, that he and his family might do honour to his remains. Mr. Forster, as Capt. Cook remarks, gave a more proper answer to the same question, put to him by a friend on shore, viz. '• That no man who used the sea, could say where he should be buried ;" a statement too sadly verified in the case of our great navigator. But the most aflfecting parting was that with Oedidee, who was so warmly attached to Captain Cook and his people, that, if but a slight hope of PARTING WITH OEDIDEE. 195 mmanded Ji'umeaux, but it was a fabrica- tives were ointed for J on board he heredi- imber ; as iceroy for ; King, or n. Many- Oreo, and .ffectionate When the chief be|?- ial phice) ; i desired to pronounce -" Stepney Ligh a hun- the part of ndship; he iend would ) honour to )k remarks, le question, , 'That no 5 he should ified in the his returning home had been given him, he would have rejoiced to accompany them to Britain. No words could express the anguish in this young man's breast, when he went away. He looked up at the ship, burst into tears, and then sunk down into the canoe. Before he went out of the ship, he requested the Captain to tattoo a word for him, that is, to write him a certificate, to shew to any commanders of vessels that might touch at the island ; a request that was readily granted. He was a youth of good parts ; of a docile, gentle, and humane disposition ; and, though he possessed lit- tle knowledge of the religion, government, man- ners, and history, of his countrymen, he would, in every respect, have been a better specimen of the nation than Omai. He did not leave the ship, till it was almost out of the harbour ; having staid to fire some guns ; for this being His Majesty's birth- day, the salute was fired at going away. Our navigator had thoughts of visiting Tupia's famous Bolabola ; but being now amply supplied with refreshments, he laid aside this design, and, to use his own words, "directed his course to the west ; taking his final leave of these happy isles, on whicli benevolent Nature has spread her lux- uriant sweets with a lavish hand ;" and where " the natives, copying the bounty of Nature, are equally liberal ; contributing plentifully and cheerfully to the wants of navigators." 5 that with to Captain rht hope of CHAPTER XIV. Sereml small Island:* ir.?t with. Landing on Savage Island ; ferocity of the natives. Landing at Ananiocka ; and inci- dents theret Departure from the Friendly Islands, and arrival at the New Hebrides. Landing at Mallicollo, and intercourse with the inhabitants. Their honesty. Poisonous fish. Attempt to land at Erromango: hostile behaviour of the natives. Arrival at Tanna, and transactions there. Friendly conduct of Paowang, &c. Hostility of others : peace established. Supplies obtained, and ship repaired. The Volcano : hot springs. Dwellings, and plantations of the natives. Geogy, the King. Manners &c. of the people. A man killed by a sentry. Departure from Tanna, and sur- vey of other islands, — Erronan — Annatom — ^Tierra del Espiritu S-^.nto, discovered by Quiros. Bougainville's Passage. Bay of St. Philip and St. Jago. Notices respect- ing the inhabitants. Nautical observations. i'l I r 'I Captain Cook having taken his departure from tJlietea on the 5th of June, fell in next day with Howe Island, discovered by Wallis; supposed to be the uninhabited island which the people of Ulietea call Mopeha. Another reef island, consisting of numerous islets inclosing a lake, or lagoon, was met with on the 16th. This being a new discovery, was named Palmerston Island. On the 20th, another island was discovered ; and some natives being seen on the beach, the Captain put off with a party in two boats, and landed on the shore, which was over-run with woods, bushes, plants, and stones. As they began to enter the woods, some of the islanders came upon them suddenly ; SAVAGE ISLAND. 197 rage Island; ; and inci- Islands, and lUicollo, and Poisonous behaviour of ctions there, y of otiiers : liip repaired. )lantaUon8 of )f the people, nna, and sur- -Tierra del Bougainville's tices respect- irture from xt day with >posed to be 2 of Ulietea Dnsisting of iagoon, was V discovery, I the 20th, ome natives )ut off with I the shore, ihes, plants, the woods, a suddenly ; and though peaceful signs were made to them, they answered with menaces, and threw a stone, which struck Mr. Sparrman on the arm. Upon this, two muskets were fired ; and they all retired into the woods. The party reimbarked, and after ranging along the coast for some miles, landed a second time, at a place where four canoes were lying. Here the natives rushed down upon them, through an opening in the woods, and in spite of all at- tempts to conciliate them, they came on with the ferocity of wild boars, and threw their darts. Two or three muskets, discharged in the air, did not deter them from further hostilities ; and one of their spears having passed close over the Captain's shoulder, he would have shot the assailant, had not his piece mis- sed fire. He was glad that it did, as the native* were presently dispersed by the firing of othera. It was remarkable, that when he tried his musket in the air immediately after, it went off as well as a piece could do. As no friendly intercourse with the natives could be obtained, our navigator quitted the place, to which he gave the appropriate name of Savage Island. The inhabitants, and their ranoes, were like those of the Friendly Islands. Their coast is hazardous for invaders, being lined with coral rocks, thickly clothed with trees and bushes. In noticing the height of some of these rocks, in which several curious caverns had been hollowed out by the sea, the Captain proposes the inquiry, how these rocks, if produced by marine insects, came to be raised so much above the level of the sea; and judiciously hints at volcanic agency, as the most probable cause of their eleva- tion. After passing several small islands^ and da iger- Jip I! 198 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. ous rocks, the Resolution arrived safely atAnamocka, one of the Friendly Islands, on the 26th of June. In approaching the island, a friendly bailer of nails for cocoa-nuts and shaddocks, was carried on with the natives of some small isles, which the vessel passed ; and before she came to an anchor, the natives came off from all parts, bringing yams and shaddocks, for which they received nails, beads, and old rags. A man attempted to steal the lead and line, and cut the line with a stone ; but a discharge of small shot made him return it. Early on monday morning, the 27th, the Cap- tain and Mr. Gilbert landed in a cove, where water, rather brackish, was obtained from a pond, supposed to be the same at which Tasman was supplied. The natives were very courteous ; and for a few nails and beads, assisted in rolling the casks to and from the pond. A friendly trade and intercourse being established, refreshments were procured in plenty; and some parties went into the country, to shoot or to botanize. When they returned, the Surgeon being left behind his party, got a canoe to bring him on board ; but just as he was stepping into it, a fellow snatched his gun, and ran off with it. The Captain having forborne to take prompt measures for its recovery, the na- tives next morning were emboldened to run off with Lieut. Clerke's gun, from the wav;cring place, and part of the cooper's tools. Upon this, the Captain, who landed soon after, resolved to seek redress without delay. Signal guns were fired from the ship, to bring back Mr. Forster and his party from the country; and the marines were ordered to go on shore armed. Before their arrival, Mr. Clerke's gun was restored by the naUves, ■.^ ANAMOCKA. 199 lamocka, of June. )arter of irried on hich the 1 anchor, ng yams ed nails, steal the one ; but 1 it. the Cap- e, where 1 a pond, sman was ous ; and Dlling the trade and jnts were went into Ihen they his party, just afe he I his gun, g forborne •y, the na- to run off ring place, a this, the ^ed to seek were fired ter and his nines were leir arrival, he nalives, I If whom the Captain had apprized of his resolution. To ensure the restoration of the other, two large double canoes were seized ; and one fellow making resistance, was wounded with small shot, and sent off limping. Not long after, the other gun was brought, and laid at the Captain's feet; upon which he ordered the canoes to be forthwith re- stored. The cooper's adze, after some delay, was also brought back. It was reported, that the wounded man had died ; but fortunately the report proved to be incorrect. The Surgeon bled him, and dressed his wounds ; and pronounced him in a fair way of recovery. The Captain made him a present also, to solace him in his affliction ; but it was taken by his master, or the owner of the canoe. While the usual trade was going on at the ship, it was observed, that a person who seemed to be of some consequence, collected a kind of tribute from those who sold fruit and roots, taking a portion out of each canoe ; for which cause, the sailors named him the Custom-house Officer. The seamen were as eager as ever in purchasing curiosities, and as pieces of cloth were usually given in exchange, most of them, as the Captain remarks, were "stripped of the few clothes the ladies of Otaheite had left them." The disgraceful traffic with females, alluded to in this remark, was not, however, permitted here ; for a loathsome disease, the effect of licentiousness, be- ing now on board, the Captain, to prevent its being communicated to the natives, strictly prohibited all such intercourse, and gave positive orders that no female should enter the ship. An elderly female, who had been useful in conducting the negociaticn with the islanders, oftered the Captain T nr / !*^ i 200 COOK Sj SECOND VOYAGE. a young girl, with a view to get presents ; and felt much disappointed, when he would not accept her, nor allow her to go on board. On the 30th, our navigator quitted Anamocka, and the small isles beside it, directing his course for two very lofty islands, Amattafoa, and Oghao. A column of smoke, arisir»g from the former, seem- ed to indicate the presence of a volcano; but when the Resolution passed through a channel between the two islands, in the afternoon, their summits could not be seen, being enveloped in clouds. In this passage, the ship was followed by several canoes ; and, it was noticed, that some of them were so constructed, that either end might be the stem, or the stem, according to circumstances. They changed tacks, by merely shifting the sail. The Captain had intended to touch at Tongata- boo ; but, the wind not favouring his purpose, he sailed to the westward, without landing at that island, or any other of this group, which he now designated the Friendly Islands. On friday, July 1st, a small island was discover- ed, surrounded by a reef, near which was seen a quantity of turtle, from which the place was called Turtle Isle. No channel was found to admit the ship through the reef; but the Master, who was employed in taking soundings, went through with a boat, and landed at a place where about twenty natives were seen, armed with clubs and spears. As soon as he touched the shore, they all retired into the woods : he left them a knife, with some medals and nails, and returned on board. About five or six miles to the S.W. of Turtle Isle, a num- ber of coral rocks were met with, which might be described as one of the coral reef isles, just emerging , t ^ New HEBRIDES. 201 and felt t accept lamocka, 8 course 1 Oghao. er, seem- ino; but channel on, their loped in owed by some of might be instances, he sail. Tongata- rpose, he g at that h he now i discover- ^as seen a was called admit the , who was ough with out twenty ind spears, all retired with some ■d. About sle, a num- i might be St emerging ;r* to the surface : the chain of rocks being almost all covered by the flood tide, while in the middle space, corresponding with the lagoon, there was deep water. Having made sail hence to the west, our naviga- tor, on Saturday, the 16th, came in sight of high land, which was rightly judged to be part of the country discovered by Quiros in 1606, and visited in 1768 by Bougainville, who found it to be a cluster of islands, which he named the Great Cy- clades. On the 18th, the Resolution passed the north end of Aurora Island, near the Peak of the Etoile, the most northerly of this group ; and then stretched over for the Isle of Lepers, on which Bou- gainville landed. Here people were seen on the shore, and many beautiful cascades of water pour- ing down the neighbouring hills. Some natives came oft' in canoes; but though friendly signs were made to them, instead of drawing near, they returned to the shore, where their countrymen were seen, in numerous groups, armed with bows and arrows. Between this isle and Aurora, which also appeared richly supplied with wood and water, the Resolution continued plying for two days, the wind impeding her progress southward. On the 20th, our navigator reached Whitsuntide Island ; and having passed this, discovered another island, called Ambrym ; and after that, a much larger island, named MallicoUo; where the Resolution anchored, in the evening of the 21st, in a creek which he named Port Sandwich. The natives soon came off" in canoes ; and although shy at first, were induced to exchange for pieces of cloth a few of their arrows, some of which, pointed with bone and dipped in a green gummy substance, appeared to "«•• 202 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. I I' h! / \ be poisoned. Two men ventured on board, and were dismissed with presents. Next morning, great numbers came off, some in canoes^ and others swimming ; and moie of them came on board than the Captain wished to admit at a time. He took four of them into the cabin, and gave them presents, with which they were much pleased. In the mean time, a fellow in a canoe, be- ing refused admittance into a boat that was along- side, bent his bow to shoot at the boat-keeper. Some of his countrymen prevented him, particular- ly one of the above four, who leaped for that pur- pose out of the cabin window : but the man having shaken him off, again directed his arrow toward the boat-keeper, when the Captain, who had come on deck, calling to him, he turned round to shoot at the Captain himself The latter fired at him with small shot, which staggered him for a mo- ment; but as he still remained in a hostile attitude, a second shot was required to make him drop his bow, and paddle off with his frightened comrades. At this time, some began to shoot arrows on the other side, and a musket discharged in the air having little effect on them, a four pound shot was fired over their heads, which sent them off in the utmost confusion, several of them leaving their canoes behind. The beating of drums, as if sum- moning the country to aims, was soon after heard on shore: but, in a short time, the islanders re- covered from their panic ; some came off to pick up their canoes, and finding that they were not molested, some even ventured to come alongside the ship. After a short inteiTal, the captain and some of his men, putting off in two boats, landed in the 1 M I rd, and some in n them idmit at 3in, and re much noe, be- ,8 along- ,-keeper. rticular- hat pur- 1 having r toward ad come to shoot 1 at him )r a mo- attitude, drop his omrades. s on the I the air shot was ifF in the ing their LS if sum- mer heard, nders re- ff to pick were not alongside i some of ed in the ^ MALLICOLLO. 203 face of four or five hundred people, who were as- sembled on the shore ; and though they were all aimed with bows and arrows, clubs and spears, they made no opposition. For the Captain, who had recently impressed them with a sense of his power, now approached them with signals of peace. He advanced alone, with nothing but a green branch in his hand ; and one of the chiefs, laying aside his bow and arrows, met him in the water, bearing the same emblem ; and their branches being exchanged, he took the Captain by the hand, and led him up to the crowd, among whom he proceeded to distribute presents, while the marines landed and were drawn up on the beach. Signs being made, that wood was wanted for the ship, the natives gave permission to cut down trees ; which was done accordingly. But no trade for provisions could be established ; not only because the language of the natives was unintelligible to our people, differing from any they had yet heard ; but because they set no value on nails and iron tools, and at the same time shewed great jealousy of their visitors, being very unwilling that they should go further than the beach, and greatly de- siring that they should return on board. Only one hog was received ; and it seemed to be brought as a peace-offering. The party returned on board about noon, with the wood they had cut ; and the natives also retired in various directions. In the afternoon, the Captain and Mr. Forster landed near some of their plantations and houses, of which they took a view. Their houses, which were just within the skirts of the woods, were simi- lar to those of the Friendly Isles, low, and covered with palm thatch. Fowls and pigs were seen near 204 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. their dwellings; and they had bread-fruit, cocoa- nuts, plantains, and yams. As they had no dogs, the Captain left them a pair to breed. The names of several islands in sight, were obtained from these people, as well as the designation of their own island. The harbour was remarkably safe ; but no stream of fresh water was observed. In return- ing on board in tlie evening, the Captain saw some of the natives commencing a dance, and heard the sound of a drum, and other music ; but when he approached with the boat, to take a nearer view, all was silent. Next morning, when the natives saw the Reso- lution under sail, they came off in canoes, and bartered more freely than before. Their honesty in trading deserves to be noticed, as it exhibited a striking contrast to the roguery of other S. Sea islanders. Some who had received goods, but had not delivered the price, used their utmost efforts to get up with the ship, to put the articles on board. One man, in particular, followed the vessel a great way ; and having come up with it during a calm, he would not part with the article he had brought, to any one but the purchaser ; and when the latter, who had forgotten the bargain, offered him some- thing in return, he refused it, and shewed him what he had given for it already. These islanders set most value on pieces of cloth, and marbled paper. Like the other inhabitants of this group, the men wear no clothes, but a belt, and a small piece of cloth or leaf for a wrapper. The females, who seldom came near, wore a kind of petticoat. Both had bracelets, ear-rings, and an ornament, if it might be so called, piercing the bridge of the nose : but they are described as an ugly race, of a ERROMANGO. 206 ruit, cocoa- lacl no dogs, The names tained from ,ion of their 3ly safe ; but In return- in saw some ad heard the but when he nearer view, aw the Reso- canoes, and 'heir honesty- it exhibited a other S. Sea oods, but had inost eftbrts to cles on board, vessel a great luring a calm, } had brought, hen the latter, red him some- l shewed him 'hese islanders and marbled of this group, It, and a small . The females, id of petticoat, tn ornament, if ; bridge of the ugly race, of a Tery dark colour, and having faces like monkeys. The letter R abounds in their language. They express their admiration by hissing like a goose. Leaving Port Sandwich on the 23rd, the Resolu- tion proceeding in a S.E. course, passed the islands of Ambrym, Paoom, and Apee. A group of small isles lying off the S. E. point of Apee, the Captain named Shepherd's Isles, in honour of his friend Dr. Shepherd, Plumian Professor of Astronomy at Cambridge. Among these isles, the ship was for some time becalmed, on the 24th; and was in danger of being driven on shore by currents. At this time, most of the officers were seized with violent pains in the head and bones, and were otherwise disordered, in consequence of having dined on two reddish fish, like a large bream, caught in Port Sandwich. A hog and a dog, which had partaken of this poisonous fish, died ; and a week or ten days elapsed before all the gentlemen recovered. Some of the isles which the Resolution passed on the 25th, in her progress southward, were named from their most striking features ; one being called. Three Hills ; another. Two Hills; and a third, the Monument. This last, being a steep rock, accessible only to birds, was the only island on which no people were seen. To the south of these, many other islands were met with ; the largest, which presented a most de- lightful prospect, richly diversified with woods and lawns, was named Sandwich Island ; and the names Montagu and Hinchinbrook were conferred on the two that were next in size. Standing towards the S.E., our navigator, on the 27th, discovered another large island, the name of which was found to be Erromango ; but owing 206 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. »l l< '< to contrary winds, calms, and currents, lie did not reach it till monday, Auf^ust 1st; and after ranging along the west and north coasts, not without dan- ger from contrary winds and currents, he cast anchor on the Hrd, in a hay near a lofty promon- tory on the N.R. side of the island. Next morning, he went with two boats, to look for a landing place, and to procure wood and water. The natives invited him to land ; and when he gave them some cloth, and medals, they ofl'ered to haul the boats over the breakers : but he preferred seeking a better landing place, and they directed him down into the bay, and round a rocky point, where he stepped out of the boat on a fine sandy beach. The natives having run along the shore, assembled here in great numbers ; he met them with only a green branch in his I:and, which one of them had previously given him ; and they received him very courteously, forming a semicircle round the boat's bow, at a respectful distance, under the direction of a chief. This man the Captain loaded with presents, and gave some also to others near him. When he made signs for fresh water, the chief sent a man for a little i'l a bamboo; and on his asking for something to eat, a yam and some cocoa-nuts were presently brought him. Thus far he was charmed with their behaviour ; yet as most of them were armed with clubs, spears, darts, bows and arrows, he judged it prudent to be on his guard, and es- pecially to watch the looks and actions of the chief. This man made many signs to him to haul the boat on shore ; and when he hesitated about ac- cepting some spike-nails, and began to give some directions to the crowd, the Captain suspecting that evil was intended, stepped into the boat. This I JS*^' TANNA. 207 lie (lid not er ranginf? thout dan- 3, he cast y promon- t morning, iling place, lie natives them some 1 the boats ng a better ivn into the lie stepped rhe natives ire in great een branch previously ourteously, bow, at a of a chief. 3sents, and When he ent a man asking for i-nuts were IS charaied them were md arrows, ird, and es- )f the chief. 3 haul the about ac- ► give some suspecting boat. This t they immediately began to lay hold of, and some snatched the oars out of the seamen's hands. The C'aptain pointing a musket at tliem, they desisted for a moment, but presently renewed their attempt. He then levelled his piece at their chief, to make him the sole victim of this treachery ; but it missed fire : and as the natives began to throw stones and darts, and to shoot their arrows, he found it abso- lutely necessary to order his men to fire at them. The first discharge threw them into confusion ; but a second was retjuired to drive them off the beach. Four of them fell in the skirmish, two of v hom afterwards crawled into the bushes. The Captain was glad that many of the muskets did not go off, as the slaughter would otherwise have been much greater. On his side, one man was severely wound- ed in the cheek with a dart, and Mr. Gilbert was slightly hurt in the breast witii an arrow. Having returned on board with his party, Capt. Cook observing a number of the natives assembled on the low rocky point, displaying two oars which had been lost in the scuffle, and which perhaps they wanted to restore, fired a four pound shot at them, to shew them the efl'ect of the great guns ; upon which, seeing the shot fall near them, they ran off in terror, leaving the oars standing up against the bushes. The Captain had intended to bring the ship nearer the shore, and to land again in quest of water ; but a fair wind arising, he sailed out of the bay, to pursue his course towards the south, giving the adjoining promontory the appro- priate name of Traitor's Head. On friday the 5th, our navigator arrived at ano- ther island, which was found to be called Tanna. A great light seen at the east end of it during the m 208 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. night, proved to be the flame of a volcano, which threw up quantities of fire and smoke, with a rum- bling noise heard at a distance. A fine harbour being discovered, afterwards named Port Resolu- tion, the ship was safely anchored here, in order to be supplied v/ith wood and water. While the vessel was warping in, many of the natives came oflfto her, some in canoes, and others by swimming ; and though shy at first, they at length ventured to come under the stern, and made some exchanges. They threv/ some cocoa-nuts towards the ship; and the Captain went into a boat, and picked them up ; presenting some cloth and other articles in return. This encouraged others to approach; and they soon became insolent and daring, attempt- ing to cany off every thing within their reach, particularly the buoys of the anchors. A few muskets fired in the air had no eflfect; but the discharge of a four pounder made them quit their canoes, and leap into the water. Yet finding themselves unhurt, they soon rallied ; and shout- ing, and flourishing their weapons, returned to the buoys : but a few musquetoon shots sent them all on shore, without hurting them. During these transactions, a friendly old man, named Paowang, made several trips to the vessel in a small canoe, disposing of cocoa-nuts or yams, for any thing that was given him. Towards evening, the Captain landed with a strong force, in the face of a crowd of natives; who formed two parties, on the right and the left, arfiied with clubs, darts, spears, slings and stones, bows and arrows. The Captain gave pre- sents to the old people ; and he and his men, after filling two casks with fresh wat^ at a pond, and \ mm ■r mm* TANNA. 209 cano, which with a rum- fine harbour Port Resolu- 3, in order to While the natives came y swimming ; [1 ventured to le exchanges, ds the ship; , and picked other articles to approach; iring, attempt- their reach, ,rs. A few jct; but the [hem quit their Yet finding d; and shout- returned to the s sent them all During these tmed Paowang, I a small canoe, for an> thing landed with a Dwd of natives; 3 right and the ears, slings and iptain gave pre- id his men, after at a pond, and I receiving a few cocoa-nuts, returned on board unmolested. Next day, to facilitate the shipment of wood and water, which were much wanted, and to overawe the natives, that they might not interrupt the men when at work, the Resolution was warped farther up the harbour, and moored abreast of the landing place. While this was doing, the islanders assem- bled to the amount of some thousands, aimed as before ; and stationed themselves in two parties, one on each side of the landing place. A few persons came off now and then in a canoe, bring- ing cocoa-nuts or plantains ; and, though they asked nothing in return, care was taken that they should always have something. Old Paowang was one who came otf ; and the Captain, having given him a large piece of ^loth, made signs to him, that his countrymen should lay aside their weapons. He returned on shore, and was seen speaking to both the companies on the subject; while he set them an example by laying aside his own weapons, and henceforth appearing unarmed, Some of his brethren, however, were less pacific. Three fellows in a canoe came under the stem, one of whom brandished a club, which he struck against the ship's side in defiance. He at last offered to exchange his club for a string of beads, and other trifles ; but when these were handed down to him, he and his comrades paddled off with the club. This was what the Captain expected ; and to shew the natives the effect of fire arms, a, fowling piece, loaded with small shot, was dis- charged at the rogue : and when he was out of musket shot, some musquetoons, or wall pieces, were fired ; which made all the three leap out of 15 ■/ V [I III iil U ■' 210 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. the canoe, and swim ashore with her, under her off side. The ship being moored, the Captain embarked with the marines, and a party of seamen, in three boats ; and made for the landing place, where the natives had left a space for them, and had de- posited a few small bunches of plantains, a yam, and two or three roots ; between which and the water, four small reeds were stuck up '"^h ^n the sand. Paowang and two others stoo ■ , in- viting the party to land. The Captain, remember- ing the trap laid for him at Erromango, made signs for both divisions to retire farther back, and leave more room ; and Paowang seemed to desire them to comply. But as they kept their stations, and increased in numbers, the Captain, to frighten them, ordered a musket to be fired over the right hand division, which was by far the strongest. For a moment they were alarmed ; but presently recovering themselves, they began to display their weapons. One fellow held up his posteriors, so as to express his defiance and contempt. Upon thir three or four muskets were fired, as a signal for r <-' ship to fire a few great guns ; which presently di persed them. The Captain and his friends tlieii landed, and marked out the limits on the right and left, by a line. Paowang still kept his ground, while his comrades had fled ; and his confidence was rewarded with a present. Others gradually approached ; but were now more friendly and civil : some laying aside their arms, and some climbing the cocoa-nut trees, and casting down nuts to their visitors, who gave them presents in return <.'he Captain made signs, that wood was wanteJ, 5\8 well as water; and his aged friend, with tljose \V f si j: TANNA. 211 mder her oft" in embarked len, in three B, where the ind had de- ains, a yam, lich and the ji'r\\ in the io 1 . in- n, remember- nango, made ler back, and ned to desire their stations, in, to frighten over the right the strongest, but presently a display their osteriors, so as t. Upon thir. I signal for ^'. > presently '^'^ IS friends then n the right and 3t his ground, his confidence ihers gradually indly and civil : some climbing m nuts to their n return i'he vas wanteJ, as ind, with tliose :0 around, gave him license to cut down wood, on condition that the cocoa-nut trees should be spared. Matters being thus amicably settled, the Captain and his party returned on board to dine, and the islanders dispersed. It is noticed as a very happy circumstance, that no one appeared to have been hurt by the shots, either on that day or the day preceding. The British landed again in the after- noon, and while a quantity of water was taken on board, a large supply of mullet, and other fish, was caught with the seine. They saw only a few natives, among whom was their trusty friend Pa- owang, who presented them with a pig, the only one procured at the island. Here our navigaton:'. remained for a fbrtnighi,, during which they not only took in wood, water, and ballast; but repaired the main-top mast, and the tiller. The volcano, which was about four miles to the west of them, was often troublesome. It vomited columns of fire and smoke, sometimes to a prodigious height ; and threw up great stones occasionally, with a terrible noise. The air was generally loaded with ashes, which fell at the har- bour in the form of fine powder, exceedingly an- noying to the eyes, and covering every thing with dust. It was unusually furious during rain ; and at such times, the rain which fell at the harbour was like a shower of mire. Excursions were fre- quently made into the country, and more than once a party set out to visit the volcano : bat the natives, who were jealous of such intrusions, re- fugee' to conduct them thither, and even purposely Jed them out of thv. way; and so many hilly ridges, densely covered with wood, were found to inter- vene, that the project was given up. The volcano f ii: if M 212 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. WHS not situated on an eminence, but on the side of a rido-e, wliich was far from being- the highest part of the island. In different spots on the sides of the hill, to the west of the harbour, were seen fissures in the ground, communicating with the volcano, and emitting quantities of smoke or steam, especially when it raged with most violence. The ground at these places was very hot, a sul))hu- reous smell was felt, and particles of sulphur, with a substance that tasted like alum, were found. Near some of these spots, fig-trees were seen grow- ing luxuriantly. On the same side of the harbour, a man scalded his fingers, in taking up a stone for ballast, out of some water ; and this led to the discovery of hot springs, at the foot of the clift". In one of these, the thermometer rose to 202^°, being very near the temperature of boiling water. Tlie natives soon began to be reconciled to their visitors, whose power they h d been taught to re- spect. So careful were they to avoid giving of- fence, that when an axe and other articles had been left on shore, through negligence, they brought them on board. Paowang and the old people, were particularly respectful. A few of the young men were occasionally troublesome ; and, in one or two instances, it was necessary to fire small shot, to check them. Other young people, however, be- came attached to the strangers ; particularly a youth named Wha-a-gou, who dined with the Captain, on the 9th. His friends came oflf in a canOe to inquire after him, and when he spoke to them from the quarter-gallery, they went on shore, and quickly returned with a cock, a little sugar- cane, and a few cocoa-nuts, as a present to the Captain. The latter presented him with a pair of TANNA. 213 i1 on the side r the highest s on the sides ir, were seen dng with the loke or steam, iolence. The lot, a sul])hu- s of sulphur, n, were found, ere seen grow- )f the harbour, up a stone for his led to the ot of the cliff, rose to 202i°, boiling water. )nciled to their 1 taught to re- fold giving of- liicles had been , they brought .Id people, were he young men 1, in one or two small shot, to e, however, be- particularly a dined with the 5 came off in a [len he spoke to y went on shore, :, a little sugar- i present to the ji with a pair of i dogs, on wliich he set great value. Piiovvang brought several presents ; and on that (hiy, when the Captain went on shore with the youth, his old friend brought him a present of fruit and roots, which, to make a greater show, about twenty men were employed to bring, although two could easily have carried the whole. Mr. Forster, in one of his botanical excursions, fell in with Paowang's house; where he saw most of the articles that had been given him, hanging on the adjoining trees and bushes, as if unworthy to be under his roof. The natives were at first jealous of allowing the strangers to visit their dwellings ; and told some of the men, that they might go home with them, if they stripped then^selves naked as they were. But when they became better acquainted with their new friends, they permitted them to visit and ex- amine their huts; each of which might be com- pared to the roof of a thatched cottage, taken off the walls, and placed on the ground. Some were open at both ends; others partially closed with reeds. A few were 30 or 40 feet long, by 14 or 16 broad. One hut, closed at both ends, and sur- rounded by a reed fence, was understood to contain a dead body. The Captain was very desirous to look within ; but the elderly man who conducted him, would not permit him, and was even displeas- ed at his looking into a basket that hung at one end of the hut, containing a piece of roasted yam and some leaves. He, and a woman that was with him, had locks of human hair, fastened to a kind of necklace ; and they both refused to sell any of them to the Captain, intimating that the hair was that of the dead pereon within. Tlieir houses were generally shaded with large ai4 ,!( 11 I I ■I! CUOK S SECOND VOYAGE. trees, and near most of them were some upright stems of trees, fixed in the ground, on purpose to hang up cocoa-nuts to dry. They had fine planta- tions in several places, laid out by line ; well stock- ed with fruit-trees, plantains, sugar-canes, yams, and other roots. The nutmeg appears to grow on the island; for Mr. Forster shot a pigeon with a wild nutmeg in its craw. In most of their planta- tions were some deep holes, for catching rats ; which abound here, and are very destructive to the canes. When the tiller was found to want repairing, there was but one tree in the neighbourhood j udg- ed fit for that purpose ; and when the carpenter and others began to cut it down, on the 16th, Paowang was displeased. The Captain, apprized of this, gave orders to desist; and going ashore, sent for Paowang, presented him with a dog and a piece of cloth ; and then explained to him, and to those who were with him, for what purpose the tree was wanted. Upon this, they all, witli one voice, gave their consent, and were well pleased v'ith the way he took to obtain it. The Captain too!' his friend on board to dine with him, and afterwards accompanied him on shore, to visit an old chief, named Geogy, said to be the Areeke, or King, of the island. He wore a broad red and white checkered belt, an'd had a merry open counte- nance, although very old. He had a son with him, not less than 45 or 50 years of age, who also had the title Areeke. Next day they both dined with the Captain on board ; eating heartily of plantain- pudding, greens, and yams, but scarcely tasting the salt beef and pork* Each of them received, after dinner, a hatchet, a spike-nail, and some "Tl tanna. 215 ne upright purpose, to fine planta- well stock- mes, yams, to ^row on geon with a heir planta- ching rats; structive to It repairing, irhood judg- le carpenter on the 16th, lin, apprized foing ashore, h a dog and to him, and ; purpose the all, with one well pleased The Captain ith him, and re, to visit an the Areeke, or (road red and ^ open counte- son with him, who also had th dined with ly of plantain- larcely tasting :hem received, ail, and some medals ; and then their Majesties were conducted on shoi'e, well pleased with their visit. In conversing with the inhabitants of Tanna, our people were given to understand that they were cannibals ; but as no tokens of it were seen, the Captain expresses a doubt, whether their lan- guage may not have been misunderstood. On another point, it was fully ascertained, that their actions had been misinterpreted. The uncommon attentions which they paid to some young men, and their endeavours to entice them into the woods, gave rise to an opinion, that the natives were addicted to an unnatural crime ; but it was afterwards found, that they had mistaken these youths for women. Hence the Captain observes, that there is a danger of fonning erroneous notions of a people, whose language is imperfectly under- stood. The language of these islanders bears no affinity to that of Mallicollo, but is the same that is spoken in the islands that are nearer. The natives knew nothing of Mallicollo, Apee, and the isles adjacent: indeed, their geographical knowledge scarcely ex- ceeded the limits of their horizon. The females of Tanna, as in most savage tribes, are treated with great harshness, having all the most laborious work to perform. It was common to see them carrying the* most ponderous loads, like beasts of burden, while their tyrannical lords were walking beside them at their ease. This de- gradation of the weaker sex prevails among almost all uncivilized nations. It is Christianity that most effectually elevates females to their proper sphere, and secures for them that respect to which they are entitled. -Tf •' ' 'I ' 216 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. The canoes of Tanna are very rudely constructed; but the clubs, bows, arrows, and spears are neatly made. Scarcely any implements for fishinp^ were seen, as the people live almost wholly on the pro- duce of the land. They are very expert in throwing their darts or spears ; for which purpose they use a becket, that is, a piece of thick plaited cord about six inches long, with an eye in one end, and a knot at the other; the eye being fixed on the fore-" finger of the right hand, while the other end is hitched round the middle of the dart. Mr. Wales, who was much among them, makes the following interesting remarks in his journal, relating to their expertness in the use of the spear : " I must con- ' fess, I have been often led to think the feats * which Homer represents liis heroes as perfonn- * ing with their spears, a little too much of the ' marvellous to be admitted into an heroic poem ; ' I mean, when confined within the strait stays of ' Aristotle. Nay, even so great an advocate for ' him as Mr. Pope, acknowledges them to be sur- ' prising, But since I have seen what these peo- ple can do with their Wooden spears, and them badly pointed, and not of a very hard nature, I ' have not the least exception to any one passage * in that great poet on this account. But, if I see ' fewer exceptionsj I can find infinitely more ' beauties in him ; as he has, I think, scarce an * action, circumstance. Or description of any kind * whatever, relating to a spear, which I have not - seen and recognized among these people ; as their ' whirling motion, and whistling noise, as they fly ; their quivering motion, as they stick in the ' ground when they fall; their meditating their ' aim, when they are going to throw; and their (: ii \ U. / tANNA; 217 instructed; are neatly iliinf? were n the pro- 1 throwing they use a cord about nd, and a )n the fore- her end is Mr. Wales, following ing to their ; must con- ik the feats as perfonn- luch of the eroic poem ; [•ait stays of advocate for m to be sur- it these peo- s, and them ird nature, I one passage But, if I see initely more ik, scarce an I of any kind h I have not iople ; as their oise, as they y stick in the ditating their >w, and their " shaking them in their hand as they go along, " &c., &c." As the natives were generally civil and courteous, after being made sensible of the power of fire-anus, the Captain was much displeased with any of his people, who employed these amis unnecessarily, to Irighten or hurt them. An instance of this kind had happened on the 10th, when the petty officers attending the wood party, fired at some boys, who had thrown two or three stones from behind a thicket. A more lamentable case of wanton cru- elty occurred on friday, the 19th. The men were getting some logs of wood into a boat, when several natives came forward to see what was doing ; and having overstepped the limits marked out at the landing place, the sentry ordered them to fall back ; which they readily did. At this time, the Captain saw with surprise the sentry presenting his piece at them ; and before he had time to reprove him, the rascal fired, and one of the men fell. He was lifted up, and carried off by two others, who wash- ed his wound. The Captain immediately sent for the Surgeon ; but on his arrival, the poor fellow was found to be expiring. The cruel sentiy pre- tended, that he had been forced to fire in his own defence, as a man who stood near the unfortunate victim, had bent his bow to shoot at him. This lamentable circumstance threw the natives into great consternation, and several of them ran to the plantations, and brought cocoa-nuts, &c., which they laid at the feet of the strangers, to propitiate them. — In the afternoon, when the Captain went on shore again, only a few natives were seen ; among whom were his friends Paowang and Wha- 5-gou, who promised to bring him some refresh- wr Ij: III If ,i i il It f 218 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. ments next morninp;, a promise which the very early departure of the sliip made it impossible to fulfil. During his stay at Tanna, Capt. Cook obtained the names of other islands in sight, some of which had been observed in approaching it : particularly, Immer, a small island to the north-east ; Erronan, . the most easterly of this group ; and Annatom, the most southerly : as well as Erromango, the island last visited. Port Resolution, which he now quit- ted, is situated in 19° 32' 26" i S. latitude, 169° 44' 35" E. longitude. Taking his departure from thence, at 4 o'clock on Saturday morning, August 20th, he stretched to the east and south, to take a nearer view of Erronan, and Annatom ; and see if any other islands lay beyond them. Returning thence on the 21st, he coasted along the S.W. side of Tanna ; and passing Erromango, and afterwards Sandwich Island, on the same side, he began to range along the S.W. coast of Mallicollo, on tues- day the 23rd. This is the largest island of the group, except Tierra del Espiritu Santo, the most westerly of the whole. Through the strait between these two islands, which he called Bougainville's Passage, Capt. Cook steered on the 23rd and 24th, and a small island in the passage, he named St. Bartholomew. Coasting along the largest island, our navigator, on the 25th, entered the Bay of St Philip and St. Jago, discovered in 1606 by Quiros, who named his place of anchorage, at the head of the bay, the Port of Vera Cruz. The east point of this bay, Capt. Cook named Cape Quiros; and the N.W. point, Cape Cumberland. The former is situated in 14° 56' S. lat., 167° 13' E. long. Troops of natives had been seen on the coast of Ni:W llEHRIDES. 211) he very ssible to obtained 3f which jcularly, Erronan, item, the le island low quit- ide, 169° ure from r, August to take a ind see if leturning S.W. side ifterwards began to », on tues- nd of the , the most it between gainville's and 24th, named St. est island, 3ay of St by Quiros, he head of st point of liros ; and he former long, he coast of % Malllcollo ; but, as the ship did not shorten sail, none of them cume off. Tlie natives in the ]3ay of St. Philip and St. .Tago, ventured off in their canoes to look at the Resolution ; but they soon took fright, and returned ashore. At last three canoes, containing five or six men in each, came so near as to receive a few presents. They were nearly as naked as the people of Tanna, wearing only a belt, with some long grass, or flags, hanging down before and behind. They understood the numerals, and other words, in the language of Anamocka ; but, in some respects, they resembled the New Zealanders. From the 27th to the 31st, our navigator coasted along the Tierra del Espiritu Santo, sailing round it, till he reached the S.W. point of the island, which he named Cape Lisburne. And now, having seen, and partly examined, all these islands, several of which were hitherto undiscovered, Capt. Cook felt himself entitled to give a name to the whole, and called this group the New Hebrides. He gives a description of the size and position of the principal islands, with the latitude and longitude of a number of points, as ascertained by him- self and Mr. Wales. In the construction of his charts of these islands, as well as of other groups, he not only enjoyed the assistance of that able astronomer, but of the officers on board; who, under his skilful directions, had become so expert in taking observations, for determining the longi- tude and latitude, that he himself remarks, " I have " seldom known any material difference, between " the observations made by Mr. Wales, and those "made by the officers at the same time." I ii I, •it.. I i 1 V r / CHAPTER XV- biscovory of New Caledonia. Eclipse of the sun observed tiierc. Ponrcfu! disposition of the natives. Their language, manners, houses, and plantations. Poisonous fish. Sundry incidents on shore. Breed of dogs, and of liogs, left. Coast explored, not without danger. Voyage to the S.E. end of the island. Remarkable pines. Dangerous shoals. Part of the coast left unexamined. Norfolk Isle discove ' : it8 productions. Arrival at Queen Charlotte's Sound. ndly intercourse and trade with the natives. Upper p the Sound examined. Rumours relating to the Adventure. Hor- rible fate of a boat's crew belonging to that ship, as related by Lieut. Burney. Sequel of the Adventure's Voyage. Taking his departure from Cape Lisburne, on the 31st of August, our navigator steered towards the south-west, and on the 4th of September made another interesting discovery, coming in sight of one of the largest islands hitherto met with in the south Pacific, — the island which he named New Caledonia. A high promontory seen on the coast, was called Cape Colnett, after the midshipman who first observed it. The land was found to stretch from S.E. to N.W. ; and the place to which the Resolution was approaching, was near the N.W. extremity, where there was an island called Balabea. The coast, like that of New Holland, was skirted by a reef; and a safe channel being found, the ship passed through, and anchored near a small sandy isle, which was named Observatory NEW CALKDONIA. 221 lun observed ir language, all. SuiKiry left. Coast B S.E. end of lioals. Part icove ' : its nd. ndly r p the enture. Hor- ip, as related Voyage. irne, on the towards the oaber made in sight of with in the amed New n the coast, lipman who i to stretch which the r the N.W. and called w Holland, mnel being chored near Dbservatory I 1 Tsle, because on this spot the astronomical appara- tus was set up, and an eclipse of the sun observed on the (!th, by C'apt. Cook, Mr. Wales, and Lieut. Clerke; who found the latitude to be 20° 17' 39" S., the longitude 164° 41' 21" E. Mr. Wales measured the (|uantity eclipsed by a Iladley's (juadrant, a method never thought of before ; and it was found to answer the pur[)ose of a micrometer. As soon as the ship came to an anchor, a great number of natives gathered around her, in sixteen or eighteen canoes, rudely constructed, but resem- bling those of the Friendly Isles. The people had already shewn themselves very ol iging, to the men employed in sounding the channel, presenting them with fish, for which they received medals and other articles : and now their behaviour was peace- ful and friendly, most of them being without any sort of weapon. Though shy at first, they were soon persuaded to come alongside, and receive presents; for which they returned some fish, that was by no means fresh. At length two of them having ventured on board, the ship was presently crowded ; and several being in the cabin at dinner time, partook of some yams; but had no mind to taste the pease soup, salt beef, and pork. They spoke a language akin to that of Tanna ; for yams, which are named Oofee at Tanna, are here termed Oobee ; and the principal chief, whose title at Tan- na and the Friendly Isles is the Areeke, is here designated the Aleeke. They were curious in examining every thing on board ; but had no name for goats, hogs, dogs, or cats ; these animals being all new to them. They shewed a fondness for spike-nails, and pieces of cloth, especially red cloth. The men wore only a belt and wrapper, and per^ 222 COOKS SECO^D VOYAGE. son? of note had on thfh head a concave cylindrical stiff black cpp. The /'emales, who Avere very chaste, wore a short, thick petticoat, made of the fibres of the plantain tree. Bo<^!. had ear-rings, necklaces, bracelets, and other ornaments. They were after- wards observed to cover themselves occasionally with coarse garments, made of matting, when rest- ing in their canoes. After dinner, the Captain and some friends, attended by a native who attached himself to him, landed on a sandy beach, in presence of a great multitude, who were unarmed and very courteous. Presents were made to several persons, whom the Captain's friend pointed out to him as men of note ; but when he was holding out some beads and medals towards the women who stood behind the crowd, his friend held back his hand. Among the company was a stout young man, named Tea- booma, the chief of the district Balade, where they now were. The first part of his name seemed to be an honorary title ; for the Captain was honour- ed by his friend with the designation Tea-Cook; and the chief of Balabea Was named Tea-bi. This young chief gave the Captain and his party a friendly reception ; and having called for silence, the pfcople listened attentively, while he delivered a short spe€(;h . and soon after, another chief, hav- ing called for silence, made a speech also. Their speeches, supposed to be in favour of their visitors, were well received ; and at the close of each sen- tence, two or three old men responded, by nodding their heads, and uttering a kind of grunt. The Captain having inquired for fresh water, his friend guided him in the boat to a narrow creek or river, about two miles to the eastward : and NEW CALEDONIA. 223 cylindrical :ery chaste, he fibres of necklaces, were after- >ccasionally when rest- nae friends, iself to him, B of a great y courteous. s, whom the as men of some beads ;tood behind nd. Among named Tea- 1, where they [le seemed to was honour- m Tea-Cook; Tea-bi. This his party a id for silence, i he delivered ler chief, hav- L also. Their i" their visitors, B of each sen- id, by nodding runt. r fresh water, a narrow creek sastward : and i:*' ■N^"' -i*; 3 m M they landed at a straggling village, where were some well cultivated plantations of sugar-canes, yams, plantains, cocoa-nuts, and taro roots; and tliese plantations, particularly the rows of taro root, were watered by little rills, carefully led hither by art, from a stream that decended from the hills. Some roots were baking on a fire, in an earthen jar, capable of holding six or eight gallons. In going up the creek, which was beset with mangroves, Mr. Forster shot a duck, which was the first use of fire-arms this people saw: the Captain's friend begged to have it, and on landing, told his coun- trymen in what way it was killed. The country being generally barren, the natives could not be expected to bring large supplies ; and among the hundreds that visited the ship next day, not one brought any eatables, except this friend, who pre- sented a few roots. Others exchanged clubs and darts, for nails and pieces of cloth. On the 6th, Lieutenant Pickersgill found out a better watering place, nearer the ship ; where plentiful supplies of wood could also be got. This day, the ship's butcher, Simon Monk, a man much esteemed, died in consequence of having fallen down the fore- hatchway, the night preceding. In the morning of the 7th, the Captain and a party of friends took an excursio i through the country, and ascended some hills in the neigh- bourhood, from whence they saw another ridge of hills running parallel to this ; and between the two ridges, a large valley, where flowed a serpen- tine river, on the banks of which w'^re villages and plantations. Through two openings in the opposite ridge, the sea was visible ; and the entire breadth of the island at this place was found not to exceed 224 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. ,' 31 IP tc\i leagues. The hills in both ridges consisted chiefly of barren rocks; the country bearing a great resemblance, in sevtral respe^^ts, to some parts of New South Wales, under the same parallel of latitude. Some of the plantations of the natives were passed in returning ; and these seemed to be laid out, and managed, with considerable judgment. Bread-fruit is scarce with them, and the cocoa-nuts are small. Their houses are mostly circular, and several of them rather neat, with side walls about 4i feet high, and a lofty peaked roof, suimounted by a tall ornamented post. The door posts are occasionally carved. They make a kind of tables within, with posts and cross spars ; but having no vents, their houses are always smoky. In the evening, the Captain, officers, and scien^ tific gentlemen, were again in danger of being poisoned by eating a new kind of fish. The Captain's clerk purchased a fish that was struck by a native in the afternoon ; resembling a sun- fish, with a long, ugly head. It was ordered for supper ; but providentially so much time was occupied in making a drawing and description of it, that it was too late ; so that only the liver and roe were drest, of which none but the Captain and Messrs. Foi-ster tasted. About three o'clock next morning, they were seized with an extraordinary weakness and r ^mbness all over their limbs, and lost the sense of feeling to such a degree, that a feather, and a quart pot full of water, held in the hand, seemed to be of the same weight. By the help of an emetic, and a sweat, they were soon relieved; but it was three days before they were quite well. A pig, that had eaten the entrails, was found dead in the morning. When the na- il I NEW CALEDONIA. 225 consisted ing a great le parts of parallel of the natives jmed to be judgment. cocoa-nuts rcular, and wa\h about uimounted r posts are id of tables b having no , and scien- er of being fish. The was struck )ling a sun- ordered for ti time was escription of [le liver and Captain and o'clock next xtraordinary r limbs, and iegree, that a held in the By the y were soon le they were the entrails, ^hen the na- rht. tives came on board, and saw the fish hanging up, tliey expressed their abhorrence of it, as unfit for food ; but none had done so when the fish was bought. In other respects, these people were as strictly honest as the natives of MallicoUo. On the 8th, Tea-booma sent a few yams and sugar-canes as a present ; and the Captain, in re- turn, sent him a pair of dogs, male and female. When the chief received them from the oflficer on shore, he was lost in an extasy of joy, and could hardly believe his ears and eyes. Next day, an albino was seen among those who came alongside the ship : the whiteness of his skin was evidently the eflfect of disease or accident. The inhabitants, in general, are stout, and well made, and several of thei.x tall. A few were found who measured 6 feet 4 inches. In one of their excursions, the naturalists met with the grave o^ a chief: it was like a large mole-hill, decorate(i tli spears, darts, paddles, &c., all stuck upright in the ground round about it. Many new plants, and beautifid birds, were found by Mr. Forster and his party. tlarly on the 9th, the Captain sent Lieutenant Pickersgill and Mr. Gilbert, with the launch and cutter, to explore the west coast. They visited Balabea, where Teabi and his people received them courteously. When the natives crowded around them, they drew a line on the ground, and signified that the people must not pass it. To this restriction they submitted, and one of them, rather humorously, turned it soon after to his own ad- vantage ; for, having some cocoa-nuts which one of the men wanted to buy, -lid which he was unwilling to part with, he retired to another part of the sand, and sitting down, made a circle round 16 226 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. If:' II 1 j i di^^'i him, intimating to the stranger that he must not come within it ; a prohibition to which he too yielded. The party made few discoveries; their progress, especially in their return on the 11th, was much impeded by squally winds : the cutter was nearly lost, by suddenly filling with water, and they were obliged to throw several things overboard, before they could free her, and stop the leak she had sprung. The Captain resolving to leave a breed of hogs, as well as of dogs, in this island, took a young boar and sow in a boat for Teabooma, on the 12th, and landed with them in the mangrove creek, at the village which he first visited in quest of water. Being informed that the chief lived at some dis- tance, he told the guide who had conducted the party to the hills, that he intended to leave the hogs here; but when he offered them to a grave old man, the latter shook his head, and with ^)thers present, desired them to be taken into the boat again. The Captain not offering to comply with their wishes, the guide, after some consultation, desired him to take them to the Aleeke, the local chief. At cordingly, the party, conducted by the guide, conveyed them to a house in which eight or ten middle aged persons were seated in a circle. The Captain and his present being introduced, he was courteously desired to sit down ; and then he began to expatiate on the merits of his pigs, shewing how many young ones the female might produce, ar d how soon they might be multiplied to hun- dreds. This he did to enhance their value in the eyes of the natives, tliac they might take more care of them. They pr( ented him with six yams; upon which he took leave of them, and went on board. ■'-^ ■m NEW CALEDONIA. 227 he must not I'hich he too )veries; their on the 11th, : the cutter with water, everal things and stop the )reed of hogs, took a young a, on the 12th, VG, creek, at the uest of water, i at some dis- conducted the d to leave the lem to a grave tnd with others L into the boat to comply with le consultation, leeke, the local nducted by the I which eight or Lted in a circle. ^ introduced, he a ; and then he tiis pigs, shewing might produce, Itiplied to hun- leir value in the t take more care li six yams; upon went on board. Having got the cutter repaired, and the supplies of wood and water completed, the Captain, after inscribing on a large tree at the watering place, the ship's name, date, &c., took leave of this kind and good natured people, and prepared to sail in the morning of the 13th. As Mr. Gilbert thought he saw the N.W. end of the island, Capt. Cook proposed to go round that end, and examine the opposite coast of New Caledonia. Accordingly, after getting outside the reef, on tuesday mc rning, he steered toward the N.W. ; but it soon appeared, that the island extended in that direction beyond what Mr. Gilbert had observed ; shoals and sandy isles were also seen to abound toward that ex- tremity of the country ; and while there appeared no good channel to pass through the reef, the latter was found to diverge widely from the island ; so that, in following its course, the Resolution was, on thursday, far out of sight of land. Upon this, our navigator, not knowing how far this circuitous route might lead him from the present object of research, altered his plan, and returned to follow the coast of New Caledonia towards the S.E., as originally intended. In retracing his* course on thursday afternoon, he was in danger of being driven against the reef by a tremendous swell, during an interval of calm; but a light breeze, aided by a favourable current, soon carried the ship into the open sea. On Saturday, the 17th, iic was opposite his late anchorage at Observatory Isle. Proceeding in his course towards the S.E., he stood in for the coast, on tuesday, the 20th, to get a nearer view of it; and observed that the country had much the same appearance as at Balade. He again stood off; ^,v..-^w*W>««MMMjn»Kii^. ,..„ „ f 1 , I') ^ 228 cook's second voyage. and pursuing^ his voyage at some distance from the shore, he observed, on the 22nd, a lofty promon- tory, which he named Cape Coronation. Another beyond it, seen next day, he called Queen Char- lotte's Foreland : it proved to be the most easterly point of the main land. Beyond this foreland, many low isles and breakers were seen ; which made it necessary to proceed with caution. The largest and most easterly isle in that quarter, on which there was a hill, was named the Isle of Pines, as many tall pine-trees were growing on it. Such pines were observed in great numbers about Cape Coronation, and in other parts of the coast, and had given rise to curious speculations. The philosophers on board maintained, that they were clusters of basaltic columns, the Giant's Causeway of New Caledonia ; and having in their heads, it seems, the notions of a great central fire, lately broached by Buffon, they connected with this fire the smoke that arose, in considerable quantities, from among the pines ; although the Captain re- minded them, that no smoke was seen there in the morning, and that their supposed great fire went out at night : the smoke having doubtless proceed- ed from the fires in the huts, erected in the woods. Having sailed round the Isle of Pines, and advanced toward the west on the other side of it, the Resolution was again in a perilous situation, among rocks and shoals ; and the night of the 28th was spent in much anxiety and fear. The return of daylight on the 29th, shewed that there was good cause for apprehension, the breakers having been very near the ship all night. " We owed our safety," says the Captain, " to the interposition of Providence, a good look-out, and the very brisk i: NEW CALEDONIA. 229 ce from the ty promon- 1. Another tueen Char- iest easterly lis foreland, een ; which ution. The quarter, on the Isle of •owing on it. mbers about of the coast, ations. The at they were t's Causeway leir heads, it l1 fire, lately with this fire le quantities, I Captain re- 1 there in tlie reat fire went tless proceed- in the woods, r Pines, and ler side of it, ous situation, lit of the 28th The return lat there was sakers having " We owed ; interposition the very brisk manner in which the ship was managed ; for, as v/c were standing to the north, the people on the lee-gangway and forecastle saw breakers under the lee-bow, which we escaped by quickly tacking the ship." Having cast anchor near a small isle, which from the abundance of plants it afforded was named Botany Isle, the Captain and the natural- ists went ashore in a boat, and enjoyed themselves in examining the productions of the place, par- ticulai'ly the pines, which had been the subject of dispute. They proved to be a kind of spruce pine, tall, straight, and with short branches ; excellently adapted for masts and spars. A few of the smaller trees were cut down for spars, and taken on board. Some of the pines were so large and tall, that one of them would have done very well for a fore-mast to the Resolution, had one been want- ed : and much larger trees were seen on the main land, and in the Isle of Pines. When the Resolution, by returning a little I towards the S.E., escaped with some difficulty out of this labyrinth of rocks, shoals, and sandy isles, our navigator intended to proceed round the south point of New Caledonia, which he named Prince of Wales's Foreland, and explore the other side of this large island ; notwithstanding the difficulties and dangers presented by reefs and sand banks : but when he got into the open sea, on Saturday, Oct. 1st, he was compelled by strong westerly winds to abandon his design. He regretted that he had not got the small vessel set up, of which the frame work was on board ; as in that case, he might have used the small vessel in examining the other side of New Caledonia, while the Re- solution might have remained at anchor. It was j'l 230 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. now too late to adopt this plan, as he had yet ex- tensive researches to make in the southern ocean, and the season for making them was fast advanc- ing: hence, as the strong westerly winds continued for some days, he had no alternative but to pursue his course to the S.E. On Saturday, Oct. 8th, Mr. Cooper struck a large porpoise, or dolphin, with a harpoon ; and being killed, after some exertion, it afforded a welcome meal of fresh meat. On the 10th, a high island was discovered, 5 leagues in circuit, which was named Norfolk Isle. The Captain and his scien- tific friends landed, and were the first human be- ings that set foot on the island, which was quite in a state of nature. They found many trees and plants common at New Zealand, particularly the flax plant ; but the chief produce of the island is a spruce pine, of a sort between that of New Zea- land, and that of New Caledonia. Some of the trees were very large, and of a great height. They obtained here a supply of delicious food from the cabbage palm, with a quantity of wood sorrel, samphire, and other vegetables. Pigeons, parrots, parroquets, and many other birds, resembling those of New Zealand, were observed. From hence our navigators steered for New Zealand; and, on monday, Oct. 17th, they came in sight of Mount Egmont, covered with everlast- ing snow ; and, on tuesday morning, they reached Queen Charlotte's Sound, and anchored before Ship Cove. The Captain's first care was, to see if the bottle which he had left, with a letter to Capt. Furneaux, had been taken away; and he found that it was gone, but no memorial left in its place, to indicate when, or by whom, it was taken. Yet If i QUEEN CHARLOTTES SOUND. 231 lad yet ex- lern ocean, ist advanc- continued it to pursue uck a large and being a welcome high island which was d his scien- human be- was quite in y trees and ticularly the e island is a if New Zea- Some of the eight. They bod from the wood sorrel, 2ons, parrots, mbling those ed for New h, they came tvith everlast- they reached hored before was, to see if etter to Capt. nd he found t in its place, I taken. Yet soon after, it was perceived, by indubitable tokens, that the Adventure had been at the Cove, after the Resolution had left it : for some trees that were left standing, had been cut down with saws and axes ; and a place was seen where an observatory, &c., had been set up, in a different spot from that which Mr. Wales occupied. Immediate attention was paid to the repairing and caulking of the ship ; for which purpose, the forge, tents, and other requisites, were set up. In the mean time, the health of his people was, as usual, an object of peculiar care, with our humane navigator. Fresh vegetables were prepared for the ship's company, at breakfast and dinner, over and above their customary allowance. The gardens, formerly sown and planted, were found in a thriv- ing state, although quite neglected by the natives : and it was afterwards ascertained, that the fowls and hogs left here, had not perished. To ensure more fully the breed of pigs, a boar and sow were left in a cove, during the present visit. On the 24th, two canoes with natives were seen coming down the Sound ; but, on seeing the ship, they retired behind a point. The Captain went with a boat's crew to seek them ; some birds were shot by the way, and the report of the muskets announced his approach. The natives shewed themselves in Shag Cove, and began to halloo ; but when the boat approached, they all fled into the woods, except two or three men, who stood on a rising ground, with arms in their hands. As soon as the Captain and his friends landed, the natives instantly knew them, and received them with lively demonstrations of joy ; and the rest, hurrying back out of the woods, participated in the 'i\' /.! m 232 COOK S SKCONl) VOYAGE. :il ' 'f same feeling-, enibracinpf their IJritifsli friends over and over again, and leaping and skipping about in exstasy. It was remarked, however, that the men would not suffer the women to approach : they stood looking on at a distance. When the Captain and his comrades, recognising some of their old acquaintance, asked for others by name, and inquired why they were afraid when the boat appeared ; they talked mucli about killing, an an- swer which our people did not then understand. Quantities of fine fish were purchased of tliem, both now and on subsequent days ; knives, hatch- ets, Tahitian cloth, &c., being given in exchange. On tuesday, Nov. 1st, part of another family, or tribe, came from the upper part of the Sound, and carried on trade for some days; their chief com- modity being green talc, which found a ready market. On Saturday the 4th, the Captain, with Messrs. Forsters and Sparrman, went in the pinnace, to explore the upper part of the Sound ; and, among other new discoveries, they found an opening east- ward into Cook's Strait. Within the entrance to this opening, they met with a large settlement of the natives, at a place called Kotieghenooee. The chief, Tringo-boohee, and his people, some of whom had lately visited the ship, received them with great courtesy. Having to return in the pinnace in the evening, they had no time to ex- amine this village minutely, nor to visit a large heppah, or stronghold, which they saw further up, nor to look into the many interesting coves which they passed. While the Captain, by such excursions, added considerably to his knowledge of the country, Mr. Wales was making new QUEEN CHARLOTTES SOUND. 233 ends over ind many me any ths led y more idly, I search, ms had s), but seeing I looked very earnestly at him, he put them on the ground, and walked about with seeming unconcern. Some of the people appearing to be frightened, I gave a looking-glass to one, and a large nail to another. From this place the bay ran, as nearly as I could guess, N.N.W. a good mile, where it ended in a long sandy beach. I looked all round with the glass, but saw no boat, canoe, or sign of inhabitant. I therefore contented myself with firing some guns, which I had done in every cove as I went along. " I now kept close to the east shore, and came to another settlement, where the Indians invited us ashore. I inquired of them about the boat, but they pretended ignorance. They appeared very friendly here, and sold us some fish. Within an hour after we left this place, in a small beach ad- joining to Grass Cove, we saw a very large double canoe just hauled up, with two men and a dog. The men, on seeing us, left their canoe, and ran up into the woods. This gave me rerison to suspect, I should here get tidings of the cutter. We went asliore, and searched the canoe, where we found one of the ruUock-ports of the cutter, and some shoes, one of which was known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse, one of our midshipmen. One of ihe people, at the same time, brought me a piece of meat, which he took to be some of the salt meat belonging to the cutter's crew. On examining this, and smelling it, I found it was fresh. Mr. Fannin (the Master) who was with me, supposed it M'as dog's-flesh, and I was of the same opinion ; for I still doubted their being cannibals. But we were soon convinced by the most horrid and undeniable proof. b I i, 238 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. ■■■ t' i: » , > H U.\ ■: 1 } 1 i ! 1 i' i "A great many baskets (about twenty) lying on the beach tied up, we cut them open. Some were full of roasited flesh, and some of fern-root, which serves them for bread. On farther search, we found more shoes, and a hand, which we immedi- ately knew to have belong-ed to Thomas Hill, one of our forecastle men, it being marked T. H. with an Otaheite tattow-instrument. I went with some of the people, a little way up the woods, but saw nothing else. Coming down again, there was a round spot covered with fresh earth about four feet diameter, where something had been buried. Hav- ing no spade, we began to dig with a cutlass ; and in the mean time, I launched the canoe, with intent to destroy her ; but seeing a great smoke ascending over the nearest hill, I got all tlie people into the boat, and made what haste I could to be with them before sun-set. " On opening the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw four canoes, one single and three double ones, and a great many people on the beach, who, on our approach, retreated to a small hill, within a ship's length of the water-side, where they stood talking to us. A large fire was on the top of the high land, beyond the woods, from whence, all the way down the hill, the place was thronged like a fair. As we came in, I ordered a musque- toon to be fired at one of the canoes, suspecting they might be full of men lying down in the bottom ; for they were all afloat, but nobody was seen in them. The savages on the little hill, still kept hallooing, and making signs for us to land. How- ever, as soon as we got close in, we all fired. The first volley did not seem to affect them much ; but on the second, they began to scramble away as fast I kept Hosv- The but MASSACRE OF A BOATS CREW. 239 as tlicy could, some of them howling. We conti- nued firing- as long as we could see the glimpse of any of them through the bushes. Amongst the Indians were two very stout men, who never offered to move till they found themselves forsaken by their companions; and then they marched away with great composure and deliberation, their pride not suffering them to run. One of them, however, got a fall; and either lay there, or crawled off on all fours. The other got clear, without any appa- rent hurt. I then landed with the marines, and Mr. Fannin stayed to guard the boat. " On the beach were two bundles of celery, which had been gathered for loading the cutter. A bro- ken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had tied their canoes ; a proof that the attack had been made here. I then searched all along at the back of the beach, to see if the cutter was there. We found no boat ; but instead of her, such a shocking scene of carnage and barbarity as can never be mentioned or thought of but with horror ; for the heads, hearts, and lungs of several of our people, were seen lying on the beach, and, at a little distance, the dogs gnawing their entrails. "Whilst we remained almost stupified on the spot, Mr. Fannin called to us, that he heard the savages gathering together in the woods ; on which I returned to the boat, and hauling alongside the canoes, we demolished three of them. Whilst this was transacting, the fire on the top of the hill dis- appeared ; and we could hear the Indians in the woods at high words; I suppose quarrelling, whe- ther or no they should attack us, and try to save their canoes. It now grew dark, I therefore just stepped out, and looked once more behind the 240 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. beach, to see if the cutter liad been hauled up in the bushes ; but seeing nothing of her, re- turned and put off. Our whole force would have been barely sufficient to have gone up the hill ; and to have ventured with half ( for half must liave been left to guard the boat) would have been foolhardiness. " As we opened the upper part of the Sound, we saw a very large fire about three or four miles higher up, which formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost to the water- side, the middle space being inclosed all round by the fire, like a hedge. I consulted with Mr. Fannin, and we were both of opinion, that we could expect to reap no other advantage than the poor satisfac- tion of killing some more of the savages. At leaving Grass Cove, we had fired a general volley towards where we heard the Indians talking ; but, by going in and out of the boat, the arms had got wet, and four pieces missed fire. What was still worse, it began to rain ; our ammunition was more than half expended ; and we left six large canoes behind us in one place. With so many disadvan- tages, I did not think it worth while to proceed, where nothing could be hoped for but revenge. " Coming between two round islands, situated to the southward of East Bay, we imagined we heard somebody calling; we lay on our oai*s, and listened, but heard no more of it: we hallooed several times, but to little purpose; the poor souls were far enough out of hearing; and indeed, I think it some comfort to reflect, that in all probability, every man of them must have been killed on the spot." Such is Lieut. Burney's report, concerning the tragical fate of those ten brave fellows ; who, after r MASSACRE OF A BOATS CREW. 241 hauled up af her, re- would have p the hill ; r must iiave have been the Sound, • four miles i\, reaching I the water- II round by Iy. Fannin, )uld expect or satisfac- vages. At leral volley IS talking- ; e arms had lat was still 1 was more rge canoes r disadvan- to proceed, 3venge. situated to I we heard id listened, r'eral times, far enough ne comfort an of them erning the who, after encountering so many dangers, and performing such arduous services, for their King and country, were barbarously slaughtered and devoured by the cannibals of New Zealand. Had the party been of sufficient force to have ascended the hill near them, on the top of which they saw a large fire, they might there have seen the flesh of their comrades roasting for a banquet to the crowd of savages met on the spot, or they might have seen their bones from which the flesh had been already picked. Some of the remains found on the beach they brought on board ; including the hand of Thomas Hill, another hand which was known to be Mr. Rowe's, and the head of Capt. Fumeaux's black ser- vant. These remains were solemnly committed to the deep. None of their arms nor clothes were found, except part of a pair of trowsers, a frock, and six shoes, no two of which were fellows. As it appeared certain that the whole boat's crew had perished, Capt. Furneaux did not think it prudent to risk another boat up the Sound, to make any further inquiry ; and as none of the natives were seen during the next four days, while the ship was detained by contrary winds, nothing more was then knr-wn on the subject. Pedero and others who now visited Capt. Cook, and who had no hand in the massacre themselves, could easily have given him a true narrative of this event, had they not dreaded incurring his dis- pleasure. It was when he visited this place again, in his third voyage, that he ascertained the par- ticulars of this melancholy affair. Mr. Rowe and the boat's crew, having collected the bundles of celery, had sat down to dinner, while several na- tives were near them, headed by a chief named 17 il m i[ ■ \ iv 242 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. Kahoora. No premeditated attack was intended by him or his people ; but some of them having snatched some bread and fish from the seamen, while another was stealing something out of the boat, then in c'large of the Captain's black servant, the delinquents were chastised with blows. This immediately produced a quarrel, when two musk- ets were fired, by which two of the natives were shot dead ; and before another shot could be fired, the savages, who were greatly superior in numbers, rushed furiously upon our people, and destroyed them all. Had they prudently forborne to resent so hastily the petty thefts committed, no bloodshed might have ensued, and the horrible catastrophe might have been prevented. The boat was said to have been pulled in pieces and burnt. To avoid the necessity of recurring again to the subject, it may be proper here to glance at the sequel of the Adventure's voyage. After passing through Cook's Strait, on the 23rd of December, Capt. Furneaux steered in a S.E. direction, and then proceeded eastward ; and meeting with no interruption, he was abreast of Cape Horn in little more than a month. He then attempted to disco- ver the land laid down by Bouvet ; but his endeij- vours to find it proving fruitless, he bore away for the Cape of Good Hope, where he arrived on tht^ 19th of March, 1774. Here he remained about a month, to refit his ship and refresh his people; and tiven sailing for England, he anchored at Spithetd on the 14th of July. Omai arrived safely in the Adventure, and was the firet Tahitian who set foot on our shores. 1 intended having seamen, it of the servant, 8. This o musk- ires were be fired, lumbers, estroyed resent so loodshed astrophe s said to in to the e at the ■ passing cember, Lon, and with no in little ;o disco- 8 endea- iway fo'.' d on tho about a people ; lored at id safely ian who I CHAPTER XVI, Voyage from New Zealand to Terra del Fuego. West coast of that country explored. Christmas Sound : excursions on shore, and intercourse with the natives. Cape Horn, and the adjacent coa'its. Success Bay. New Year's Harbour and Isles, in Staten Land. Coasts of that country survey, ed ; its natural productions. South Georgia discovered, and examined: its dreary aspect. Sandwich Land discover, ed ; Southern Thule, &c. Forbidding appearance of these icy regions : reasons for not attempting to explore them. Another fruitless search for Cape Circumcision. Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. News of the Adventure ; and of the French navigators. Voyage to St. Helena, — to Ascension, — to Fernando de Noronha, — and to Fayal. At- rivat in England. Sailing from Ship Cove, on thursday, Nov. 10th, and passing through the Strait that bears his name, Capt. Cook again took his departure from Cape Palliser, and steered in a S.E. direction ; but turned toward the east, when he had attained 55° S. latitude. He thus kept in a lower latitude than before, pursuing his voyage in a new track, to ex- plore a larger portion of the South Pacific. Had he known, that this was very nearly the course taken by the Adventure, he would probably have crossed that ocean in a parallel of latitude still lower. The journal of this part of the voyage con- tains nothing but a record of the changes of the weather, the progress made as to latitude and longi- tude, the variation of the compass, with notices of !i' \f. If. fl^ 'li [If- 1'^ i ' 244 COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. birds, seals, and rock- weed, and of a few striking phenomena that were seen ; particularly the aurora australis, and some singular fog-banks that were mistaken for land. During the passage, Mr. Wales ingeniously contrived an instrument for measuring correctly the angle formed by the rolling of the ship. The greatest angle observed was 38°. Finding no land in this extensive track, and having no hope of discovering any in this part of the ocean, our navigator rightly judged, that the best service he could now render to navigation and geography, would be to explore the western and southern shores of Terra del Fuego, hitherto very imperfectly known. He, therefore, made for the western entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens, and came in sight of the land near Cape Deseada, on Saturday, December 17th.; completing his pas- sage from New Zealand in about the same time as the Adventure. Bidding adieu to the Pacific, which had so long been the scene of his researches, he now coasted along Terra del Fuego, from Cape Deseada south- ward ; keeping at about two leagues distance from the shore, and marking the most striking features of the coast. To a high rugged isle, which was first in his way, he gave the name liandfall. A projecting point, about 17 leagues further south, he termed Cape Gloucester. He afterwards pass- ed Cape Noir, where he observed some remarkable rocks, and rocky islets. He then crossed the great bay of St. Barbara, which opens into the Straits of Magalhaens : and he named the S.Fi. point of this bay, Cape Desolation ; because here the country begins to be most desolate and barren, consisting of naked mountains and rocks, with frightful pre- '1 V 1 A k mm wmfm \ I TERRA DEL FUEGO. 245 cipices, and cragj^y summits spiring up to a vast height, without the least vestige of vegetation. In the interior, the mountains were covered with snow, but not on the coast. An island to the south of Cape Desolation was called Gilbert Isle, after the Master. About 19 leagues to the south of this isle, a lofty promontoiy was seen, terminating in a romantic rock, present- ing the appearance of two high towers with a sugar-loaf hill between ; and this rock, from a very natural association of ideas, the Captain named York Minster. Finding an opening on the east side of this promontory, he stood in for the land, in the evening of the 20th : and although in some parts of the entrance he found no bottom, he after- wards met with good anchorage ; and next morn- ing moved the ship into a comfortable cove, where there was a valley covered with wood, and a stream of fresh water. Here the Resolution remained a week, and this being Christmas time, the inlet was named Christmas Sound. The greater part of this Sound, which is of considerable extent, was care- fully surveyed by the Captain and his officers. It contains a number of islands : that where the ship was anchored was termed Shag Island, as it abounded with shags ; and another opposite to it, much frequented by geese, was named Goose Is- land. Numbers of coves, or harbours, were found, affording safe anchorage, with wood and water. A large one, to the west of Shag Island, was called Port Clerke ; and another, adjoining to it on the north, Pickersgill Cove. On the day after the Resolution arrived here, a serious accident happened ; one of the marines fell overboard out of the head, and was drowned. In I T . i\ :;• 'i- 846 rooks KEtoM) vovAut. other respects, the stay of our people here Was attended with considerable enjoyment. They had not only plenty of wood and water for the ship, but good supplies of celery; while the shags, ducks, and especially geese, which they shot, furnished some welcome, and even rich repasts. On the 24th, they shot no less than 7() geese, so that the whole crew had an excellent Christmas dinner, of roast and boiled goose, goose pie, &:c; and having still some Madeira wine left, the only part of their stores that improved by keeping, they kept Christ- mas as cheerfully a iost of their friends in Eng- land. The Captain gratefully observes, " Had not Providence thus singularly provided for us, our Christmas cheer must have been salt beet and pork." In their excursions, they had observed huts, and other tokens that the place was inhabited ; and, on the 24th, a number of natives, in nine canoes, came alongside the ship, and some of them came on board. By their familiarity, as well as by the knives in their possession, it appeared that they were not unacquainted with Europeans. They Were of the same wretched nation, formerly seen in Success Bay, on the east side of this country. Bougainville named them Pecheras ; a word which they had frequently in their mouth. They are described as a little, ugly, half-starved, beardless race. Most of the men had no clothing but a seal skin, scarcely sufficient to cover their shoulders ; although, by using more seal skins, and lining them with skins of birds, they might, with a little industry, clothe themselves decently and comfort- ably They are, however, inured to the cold from their birth ; for the children had no covering what- I ; I 1 , 1 I CHRISTMAS SOUND. 247 ever. Yet these people shewed a desire for warmth: each canoe had a fire in it, over which the poor creatures huddled themselves ; and when some of them were standing naked and shivering on deck, in the evening of the 26th, they gladly accepted some baize and old canvass, which the Captain humanely gave them to cover themselves. As they smelt intolerably of oil, their presence was not much desired on board, particularly at meal time. They had bows, arrows, and darts or harpoons, pointed with bone. They partook? of biscuits, but were better pleased with presents of beads, medals, and knives. Mr. Forster and his party were much gratified in their botanical excursions. Almost every plant here was new to them, and some species were re- markable for the beauty of their flowers, or the sweetness of their smell. A kind of cranberry, used for food by the natives, grows here in abun- dance ; and the tree which produces winter bark, was found in the woods. — Mr. Wales was also busy in his department, having his observatory erected on the top of a rock near the ship. The latitude of the place was found to be 55° 27' S. ; the longitude 70° 16' W. The Captain, ever at- tentive to the interests of navigation, carefully de- scribes the position and aspect of the principal points in this Sound, especially at its entrance, and has laid them down correctly in his chart. In proceeding hence on the 28th, our navigator observed in his jjrogress towards the south and east, that the coast is much indented with inlets, and studded with isles, as he had found it to the north of Christmas Sound. At the same time, he considered this coast as much less dangerous than 248 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. nv ' it had been represented. In the evening-, he had a good view of the Ildefonso Isles, a y;roup about 8ix leagues from the main. Soon alter, he passed the west point of Nassau Bay, discovered by Her- mite, in 1624. It is sometimes called false Cape Horn, being tiie southern point of Terra del Fuego. In the evening of next day, he passed the famous Cape Horn, and entered the Southern Atlantic Ocean. It is the most southern extremity of a group of islands, called Hermite Islands, lying be- fore Nassau Bay ; and was found to be in lat. 55'-"' 58' S., long. 67° 46' W. About three leagues E.N.E. from Cape Horn, is a rocky point which Capt. Cook named Mistaken Cape : it is the south- ern point of the most easterly of Hermite Isles. Between this and Cape Horn, there seemed to be a passage directly into Nassau Bay ; but, owing to hazy weather, the objects here were seen indis- tinctly. Steering for Strait le Maire^ our navigator visit- ed Success Bay on the 30th ; and sent Lieutenant Pickersgill on shore, to see if any token could be found, indicating that the Adventure had been here. Of course, nothing was observed, as she had not touched here ; but the Captain, with his usual prudence, caused a card to be nailed to a tree at the watering place of the Endeavour, to give notice to Capt. Furneaux that the Resolution had passed, in the event of his coming after. The natives whom Mr. Pickersgill met with were very friendly, and made signs for the ship to anchor in the bay. They were the same kind of people as those of Christmas Sound. The bay was full of whales and seals. By comparing the longitude of this place with that of the west side of Terra del Fuego, our \k, STATEN LANIJ. 240 I. i navigator ascertained, that its breadth is not so great as had hitherto been supposed. From Success J^ay, he steered to the east, an ( 242 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. raasses of ice occasionally burst from the cliffs, making a noise like a cannon, and floating out to sea. — No tree could be seen, nor even a shrub big enough to make a tooth pick. The only vegetation met with, consisted of wild burnet, a plant like moss, and some coarse grass growing in tufts. — Animal life was less rare : for seals, or sea-bears, were numerous; and sea birds, of various sorts, abounded ; among which were flocks of very large penguins, some weighing from 29 to 38 Jb. each. Quantities of seals and penguins were taken on board for food ; the ship's company, officers as well as men, being now so heartily tired of salt provi- sions, that fresh meat of any kind was preferred to salt beef and pork. To the south and east of this bay, several other bays and capes were observed and named, on the I8th, and 19th. At the S.E. point of the main land, a small isle was found, which was called Cooper's Isle. Round this our navigator sailed, on the 20th ; when advancing towards the south west, he came to a point which he named Cape Disappointment ; because here he saw, from the direction of the coast, and from objects observed towards the other extremity of the land, near Willis's Isle, that this icy region which he had discovered, was no part of a southern continent, as he had fancied, but only an island, about 70 leagues in circuit, being 31 leagues long, and about 10 in its greatest breadth. New land having been observed vOwaids the S.E., in passing Cooper's Isle, he now returned to visit it; but encountering a violent storm, and then a succession of thick fogs, this land was not distinctly seen till tuesday, the 24th j when it waa ' nan SANDWICH LAND. 253 cliffs, out to •ub big etation nt like ufts. — i-bears, sorts, large each. ^ found to consist of a few straggling rocks, which were named Gierke's Rocks, as Lieut. Gierke had first discerned them. The atmosphere clearing up next day, our navi- gator steered to the S. and S.E. ; and though his progress was impeded by frequent fogs, he found himself on the 28th, in lat. 60° 4' S., long. 29° 23' W. Here he met with numbers of large ice- bergs, and a sea strewed with loose ice, and the weather at the same time being thick and hazy, he could not advance farther south ; but moved about in various directions, as the winds, icebergs, and fogs permitted, till tuesday, the 31st, when, in standing N.N.K., the fog cleared away, and land was seen ahead, only three or four miles distant. This land, of which several portions were seen in succession, and which was thought to be of consid- erable extent, was named Sandwich Land. The Resolution was now approaching three high rocky islets, the outermost of which, terminating in a lofty peak like a sugar-loaf, was named Freezeland Peak, after the man who first discovered it. The elevated coast that rose behind, whose lofty snow- clad summits were seen above the c.ouds, was called Ga[)e Bristol. To the south there appeared another elevated coast, which was designated the Southern Thule, as being the most southerly land yet discovered. In steering towards it, the latitude observed was 59° 13' 30" S., longitude 27° 45' W. Some thought they saw land in the space between Thule and Cape Bristol, and the deep bay inter- vening was called Forster's Bay. The Captain attempted to proceed southward, to examine this new country; but unable to weather Thule, he tacked and stood to the north ; and the wind hav- 254 COOK S SECOND VOYAGr. !',i ing fallen, while a great westerly swell with a hazy atmosphere prevailed, and no bottom could he found with a line of 200 fathoms, the ship w.as in danger of driving against the horrid ice-clifts of Cape Bristol ; and all on board were glad when they found themselves so far to the north of this cape, that no land was seen to the eastward. Next morning, another lofty snow-clad promontory was seen, which obtained the name Cape Montagu, lying 7 or 8 leagues north of Cape Bristol, and supposed to be also part of the same country, land having been discerned in more than one spot in the intermediate space. On thursday, February 2nd, another coast was seen, about 13 leagues farther north, and was called Saunders Isle ; al- though it was thought possible, that this coast also might belong to Sandwich Land. On the same day, two small isles were discovered, and named Candlemas Isles, lying in lat. 57° 1 1' S., long 27° 6' W. These isles were the last of our navigator's dis- coveries in this dreary region. He was strongly inclined to think, that Sandwich Land might be part of a southern continent ; for the cold here was much more intense, and the ice in far greater quantity, than in the same parallel in the South Pacific ; which he could only account for by sup- posing, that the track of land near the south pole, where the ice of that region is formed, extends much farther to the north, in the direction of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, than towards the Pacific. Anxious to explore every thing, he would gladly have asrortained, whether these forbidding coasts belonged to a group of islands, or to a southern continent ; but many considerations in- SANDWICH LAND. 255 duced him to give up the attempt. Tlie country, instead of inviting research, presented an aspect inexpressibly horrid. The land was buried in everlasting snow and ice, where the wai-mth of the solar rays was never felt ; the coast had no sandj*- beach, or place of safe anchorage, but was faced with frowning perpendicular ice-cliffs, which it was dangerous to approach ; a danger that was much increased by dense fogs, squally winds, and heavy snow showers. " The ports which may be on the coas':, are in a manner wholly filled up with frozen snow of vast thickness ; but if any should be so far open as to invite a ship into it, she would run a risk of being fixed there for ever, or of com- ing out in an ice island." He justly adds, "It would have been rashness in me, to have risked all that had been done during the voyage, in discov- ering and exploring a coast, which, when discov- ered and explored, would have answered no end whatever, or have been of the least use, either to navigation or geography, or indeed to any other science." Besides, the worn-out condition of the sails and rigging of the ship, the decayed state of the provisions on board, and above all, the long continued hardships and privations of the brave Mien under his command, forbade him to persevere m such hazardous and fruitless researches. On this subject, the following passage in his journal does equal credit to his own humane feelings, and to the conduct of his officers and crew. "My people, indeed, were yet healthy, and would have cheerfully gone wherever I had thought proper to leml them ; but I dreaded the scurvy laying hold ol them, at u time when we had nothing left to remove it. I must say, further, that it would have ^femmi 256 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. :i- I f- : i i : i been cruel in me, to have continued the fatigues and hardships they Avere continually exposed to, longer than was absolutely necessary. Their be- haviour, throughout the whole voyage, merited every indulgence which it was in my power to give them. Animated by the conduct of the officers, they shewed themselves capable of sur- mounting every difficulty and danger that came in their way, and never once looked either upon the one or the other, as being at all heightened, by our separation from our consort the Adventure." For these reasons, the Captain, instead of renew- ing his attempt to get to the south of Thule, contented himself with steering towards the 8.E., to see if he could fall in with the land in that direction ; and having reached 58° 15' S. latitude, without seeing any land, or any token of its being near, he altered his course, and stood to the east- ward, to search once more for Cape Circumcision. This search, like that of Capt. Furneaux the year before, proved fruitless ; no such land could be found in the place assigned ; and besides the dis- appointment, our mariners, in this part of their voyage, suffered much from intense cold, violent gales, and dreadful showers of snow and sleet; which did considerable damage to the sails and rigging. Sometimes the quantity of snow lodged in the sails was so great, that it was necessary to throw the ship up in the wind, to shake it out of them, otherwise neither they nor the ship could have supported the weight. 1'ired with such severe and unprofitable service, Capt. Cook gave up the thoughts which he had entertained, of looking for the recent French discoveries ; yet, in making for the Cape of Good Hope, he resolved to take the dis- CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 257 isles of Denia and Maraeveen in his way ; but the winds proving unfavourable, and the weather stormy, he was obliged to pass on, and on friday, March 17th, came in sight of the African coast. At this time, pursuant to his instructions, he re- quired the officers of every rank to deliver up their journals and log-books, which were accordingly received and sealed up, for the inspection of the Admiralty. The officers and crew were also en- joined, not to divulge where they had been, till permitted by their Lordships to do so. Next day, our navigators fell in with a Dutch Indiaman from Bengal. The master, Capt. Bosch, very obligingly oft'ered them sugar, arrack, and other supplies. From some Englishmen on board, our people learned, that the Adventure had arrived at the Cape a year before, and that the crew of one of her boats had been murdered and eaten by the New Zealanders. On the day following, the True Briton, Capt. Broadly, from China^ bore down to the Resolution. Capt. Broadly confirmed the ac- counts received the day before, and liberally sent on board a most acceptable supply of fresh pro- visions, tea, and other articles ; together with a parcel of old new^spapers, which to persons who had been so long from home were highly inter- esting. The Resolution anchored in Table Bay, on Wednesday, March 22nd, which at the Cape was only tuesday the 21st, a day having been gained by circumnavigating the globe. Here Capt. Cook received a letter left for him by Capt, Furneaux, detailing the particulars of his voyage after parting from the Resolution. Capt. Newte, of the Ceres East India-man, being ready to sail for England, 18 wnr.«^_ ■BH 258 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. ,.i I .1 ( the Captain sent by him a copy of his journal, with some charts and drawinj^s, to the Admiralty, to whom he had already written by Capt. Broadly. On the arrival of the Resolution, the usual salu- tations were exchanged, and the Governor, Baron Plettenberg, received our navigators with great politeness. The scientific gentlemen, and most of the officers, took lodgings on shore ; while the Cap- tain took care to send fresh bread, meat, greens, and wine, to those who remained on board. Only three men required to be brought on shore, to re- cruit their health. The repairing of the ship was also promptly attended to. The rigging was so bad, that almost every thing, except tiie standing rigging, required to be replaced witli new articles, which were purchased at a most exorbitant price. It was not surprising, that the rigging, sails, &c., were worn out, the vessel having sailed no less than 20,000 leagues since her departure from the Cape ; an extent of voyage never performed in the same space of time by any ship before, being nearly equal to three times the equatorial circumference of the earth! And so well did the Resolution accomplish this long run, under the care of Pro- vidence, and the skilful management of our mar- iners, that they sprung neither low-mast, top- mast, lower nor top-sail yard, nor so much as broke a lower or top-mast shroud. Here our great navigator met with Capt Crozet, who was second in command under Capt. Marion, who sailed hence with two French ships in 1772. Capt. Marion and some of his people had been unfortunately killed by the New Zealandei-s, in the Bay of Islands. Crozet, who succeeded to the command, returned with the two ships to the I FERNANDO DE NORONHA. 259 iirnal, iralty, nadly. I salu- Baron great aost of e Cap- rreens, Only , to re- lip was was so anding irticles, t price, lis, &c., ;ss than ; Cape ; le same nearly iference solution of Pro- II r mar- st, top- nuch as , Crozet, Marion, in 1772. lad been ndei-s, in ed to the to the Mauritius, by way of the Phili})pine Isles. He obligingly communicated to Capt. Cook a chart, in which were delineated his own discoveries, and those of Capt. Kerguelen ; as also the track of Capt. Surville, who had crossed the Pacific in 1769, and had put into Doubtful Bay, in New Zealand, where he seems to have been when the Endeavour passed it. He was drowned in going on shore, in the port of Callao. Capt. Cook was also respectfully treated by the Dutch, Spanish, and Danish Captains, whom he met with at the Cape ; and he who had done so much for the interests of navigation, was well en- titled to the esteem and regard of his brother mariners of all nations. Having got every thing on board, and taken leave of the Governor, and other principal officers at the Cape, our navigator sailed, on thursday, April 27th, in company with the Dutton Indiaman, Capt. Rice. On the 16th of May, he anchored at St. Helena, where also he was treated with much respect: and sailing hence, on the 21st, arrived at Ascension Island, on the 28th. At both islands, observations were made by the Captain and Mr. Wales, for determining the longitude. For the same object, after remaining three days at Ascen- sion, where they caught 24 turtle, our navigators steered for the Portuguese Island of Fernando de Noronha, on the coast of Brazil, and arrived there on fiiday, June 9th. Having ascertained the longi- tude of a remarkable peaked hill on the island to be 32i° W., the latitude 3° 53' S., they returned without coming to an anchor, or even communicat- ing with the shore, and made for the Azores. On the passage, they tried the experiment of procuring • ' ..1 260 COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. ai* K. HI I' ,' fresh water by distillation; and succeeded in ob- taining 32 gallons of fresh water, at the expense of a bushel and a half of coals. The Captain regard- ed this as a useful invention, but could not advise any one to trust wholly to it; especially as he con- sidered a plentiful supply of fresh water essentially necessary for preserving the health of seamen. On the 14th of July, the Resolution anchored in the bay of Fayal, where Mr. Dent, the English consul, enteitained the Captain and his friends with great politeness. Some refreshments were procured here for the ship's company, and nautical observations made, as usual. Mr. Wales set up his observatory in Mr. Dent's garden, and by his observations, and those of the Captain on board, the latitude was found to be 38° 31' 56" N., the longitude, 28° 38' 56" W. On Wednesday, the 19th, our navigators sailed from the Azores, and passing St. George's Island, and Terceira, made sail for England, where they anchored at Spithead, on the 30th. On tli same day, the Captain, with Messrs. Wales, t'oisters, and Hodges, landed at Portsmouth, and set out for London ; having been absent from England three years and eighteen days, during which he had lost but four men, and only one from sickness. After recapitulating the methods which he had so successfully employed, for preserving the health of his people, and glancing at the principal ob- jects accomplished by the voyage, he closes his journal with the following important remarks : " But whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it is with real satisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of attention to my duty, that I can conclude this Account with ,. ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. in ob- 3nse of egard- advise le con- ntially n. ared in [English friends s were lautical set up by bis board, N., tbe 5 sailed Island, :re they b same ^orsters, : out for id three liad lost I he had le health ipal ob- loses his rks : udgment tion, and ention to unt with 261 an observation which facts enable me to make, that our having discovered the possibility of preserving health among a numerous sliip's company, for such a length of time, in such varieties of climate, and amidst such continued hardships and fatigues, will make this Voyage remarkable in the opinion of every benevolent person, when the disputes about a Southern Continent shall have ceased to engage the attention, and to divide the judgment of philo- sophers." II IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) h /. ^.^.% A v.. LO I.I 1.25 1^ us Ui u 1^ 1^ K|22 2.0 140 U IIIIII.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation V A a>^ :\ \ V ;? V<»'"T irtAiN STREET WEB^riLli.N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 6^ fel €^ ♦ °:^ . kjjim I! CHAPTER XVII. r ^ ** ,■ ■ Interest felt in Cook's arrival. Honours conferred on him. New voyage projected. His Letters to Mr. Walker. No- tices of Omai : His introduction to the King, nnd to several of the Nobility, &c. His trip to York, Scarborough, Mul- grave, and Kirkleatham, with Mr. Banks, and Messrs. CoU man. Cook's Father. Lord Mulgrave, the celebrated navigator. The Captain's appointment to the command of a third expedition. He is chosen a member of the Royal Society. His scientific Papers ; one of which obtained the gold m'idal for 1776. The Narrative of his Second Voyage prepared by himself. His merits as an author. Other Publications relating to the Voyage. Equipment of the Resolution and Discovery. Live Stock, ana other articles, put on board for the S. Sea Islanders. Rich presents made to Omai at his departure ; small improvement made by him during his residence in Britain. The Captain's instructions for the Voyage. His letter to Commodore Wilson. The safe arrival of Capt. Cook and his shipmates, after a voyage of three years duration, not only furnished the most lively joy to relations and friends, but was gratifying to the nation at large. The news previously brought by the Adventure, and published in the periodicals of the day ; with the frequent appearances of Omai, and numerous an( cdotes told of him, — had, indeed, already grati- fied public curiosity, so as to diminish the interest felt in the arrival of the Resolution ; while, at the same time, the attention of the British public was almost wholly absorbed in that great national con- cern — the American war. Yet, notwithstanding COOK RECEIVED WITH HONOUR. 263 I on hiiM. er. No- several gh, Mul- ssrs. Col* BJebrated timand of he Royal ained the d Voyage . Other ;nt of the f articles, ents made de by him structions ipmates, lot only ons and at large. Iventure, ay; with lumerous ,dy grati- e interest le, at the iblic was onal con- istanding i I these unfavourable circumstances. Cook was wel- comed home by the acclamations of an admiring country, as well as the waim congratulations of his friends. The joy exprest on this occasion was the more lively and general, as his laurels were not now, as before, entwined with cypress ; death had made no havoc among his people ; the officers and men of science, who sailed with him, had all returned in health and safety. The objects of the voyage too, had been fully accomplished ; for, while discoveries of no small importance had been made, the question as to the existence of a great Southern Continent had been completely set at rest. When the unparalleled extent of his researches, and the consummate skill with which they had been con- ducted, came to be generally known, he was, by common consent, placed at the head of all navi- gatoi-s, and was named by many, " the second Columbus." It was his happiness to find his friends and patrons, the Earl of Sandwich, and Sir Hugh Palliser, under whose auspices the expedition was equipped, still stationed at the Admiralty board, and ready to receive him with the same cordial friendship which they shewed at his departure; while on their part a high gratification was enjoy- ed, in finding that their assiduous cares in fitting out the vessels had been crowned with distinguish- ed success, while, with regard to the conduct of the voyage, their most sanguine expectations were more than realized. ^io time was lost, in marking the high approba- tion with which his sei*vices were regarded by his King and country. On the 9th of August, only ^ Wp' rr ili IP llllj R? 1 1: 1 fl/: ' ■ I i i h ■ M ' r. 1 '' ■ I J I 204 IJFE or C^- i;. died of the dropsy, Jiiid a complication of other disorders, without tlie least mixture oi' scurvy. This, sir, is an imperfect outline of my voyage, which I hope you will excuse, as the multiplicity of business I have now on my hand, will not admit of my being more j)articular or accurate. Any thing further you may want to know, you will always find me ready to communicate. I did expect, and was in hopes, that I had put an end to all voyages of this kind to the Pacific Ocean, as we are now sure that no Southern Continent exists there, unless to near the pole, that the coast cannot be navigated for ice, and therefore not worth the discovery; but the sending home Omiah [^Omai] will occasion another voyage, which I expect will soon be undertaken. Mrs. Cook joins me in best respects to you and all your family ; and believe me to be, with great esteem. Yours most sincerely. Jams. Cook. P.S. My Compliments to Mr. EUerton, if he is yet living. ■iil'^ \M f The restoration of Omai to his own country being thus noticed by Cook, as one object of ano- ther voyage, it may be proper here to glance at the history of this Tahitian, from the time of his arrival in the Adventure. He was overjoyed in landing on British ground, where every object was new to him ; the houses, gardens, shops, carriages, dresses, cattle, and almost every thing he saw, striking him with surprise. He had expressed a strong desire to see the great King, King Tosh (for so he pronounced George); and this desire ii NOTICES OF OMAI. 273 other •licity admit Any a will I did in end ean, as t exists cannot .rth the [OwttH ect will in best believe looK. , if he is country , of ano- lance at ae of his •joyed in bject was carriages, he saw, pressed a ing Tosh lis desire i I was speedily gratified; for on the 17th of July, only tliree days alter his arrival, the Karl of Sand- wich, to whom (.'apt. Furneaux had introduced liim, presented him at court. He had been previ- ously taught how to address the King, in the most fashionable style ; but, when ushered into the royal presence, he forgot his instructions, and accosted His M.ajesty in these words, "How do you do. King Tosh ?" The good natured monarch took him by the hand very fiimiliarly, made several kind inquiries concerning him, particularly as to his health, and mode of living ; and desired that he might be suitably provided for, and be inoculated for the small-pox. This last direction was tlie more necessary, as Aotourou, whom Bougainville brought to France from Otaheite, died of the small- pox at the Mauritius, when he was about to embark from thence for his native island. The Earl of Sandwich and Mr. BanH took Omai under their special patronage, and introduced him to numbers of the nobility and gentry, not only in the metropolis, but in various parts of the country. He was fond of intercoui*se with the great, and shewed no inclination for low company, or mean habits. He assumed the dress of an English gen- tleman, wearing a reddish brown coat and small clothes, and a white vest, and having his hair clubbed behind. He handled his knife and fork properly at table, his manners were easy and polite, and he generally acquitted himself well on his introduction to persons of rank. At his first inter- view with Lord Sandwich, whose high station had been mentioned to him, he pointed to the butler, and said that he was " King of the bottles ;" then turned to Capt. Furneaux, whom he called " King 19 j>i» I II ■ mmt 274 LIFE OF COOK. ri ol' the ship;" and lastly saluted his Lordship as " King of all the ships." After visiting His Ma- jesty, he was introduced to the Duchess of Glou- cester. Her Royal Highness had not provided any suitable present for him ; but it occurred to her, that her handkerchief, embellished with her coronet, would be acceptable : and Omai gratefully receiving it, immediately kissed the coronet, and made a most respectful bow to the Duchess. This politeness, so unexpected, gained him the good graces of all present. Soon after this, he was taken to Hertford, near Huntingdon, under the care of Mr. Andrews, Sur- geon of the Adventure ; and, after a course of pre- paration, was inoculated for the small-pox, through which he passed safely. During his stay here, he was kindly entertained by Baron Dimsdale, and other respectable persons in the place. Some instances of his extreme sensibility, and ten- derness of disposition, were witnessed at Hert- ford. He was much amused in observing some anglers fishing in a stream ; but when he saw that their hooks were baited with live worms, he turned away in disgust, declaring that he would eat no fish taken by so cruel a method. One day he attended a funeral ; but he was so affected, that he was unable to see it finished, and withdrew in tears from a scene so painful. When he first saw the church yard at Hertford, and was told that it was a burying place, he asked if all the people buried there had died by inoculation. After his recovery from the small-pox, he was sumptuously entertained at Hinchingbroke, the seat of the Earl of Sandwich, in Huntingdonshire ; and while he was here, the neighbouring gentlemen NOTICES OF OMAI. 275 rclsliip as His Ma- , of Glou- provided :curred to with her gratefully ronet, and less. This the good ftford, near Irews, Sur- iirse of pre- ox, through ;ay here, he isdale, and ice. Some , and ten- d at Hert- irving some len he saw ; worms, he it he would . One day iflfected, that withdrew in L he first saw s told that it 1 the people -pox, he was ngbroke, the tingdonshire ; ig gentlemen I % •s? •j« vied witli each other in varying his diversions, in order to raise his ideas of the splendour and gaiety of Britain. He afterwards visited different paits of the country, chiefly under the care of Mr. Banks ; who introduced him to a succession of pleasures. On the 2nd of November, he was taken to Cam- bridge, where he appeared in a military unifonn. He was much struck with the dress of the doctors and professors in their robes ; and shewed a super- stitious dread of every thing which he regarded as sacred. Many, indeed, supposed him to have been a priest in his own country, as Tupia was. A gentleman in the university offering him a pinch of snuff, he politely refused it, saying, that his nose was not hungry. He appeai-s to have spent most of the winter and spring in town, where he enjoyed an almost continual round of entertainments and shows. He adopted, with facility, the manners, occupations, and amusements of those with whom he associated ; and, among other things, became a proficient at the game of chess. In the beginning of June, 1775, when Lord Sandwich began his annual sur- vey of the Royal Navy, Omai accompanied His Lordship, along with Lord Seaford, Sir Hugh Palliser, and Mr. Banks, at the examination of Chatham dock-yard. Mr. Peake, builder's assis- tant, conducted the Tahitian on board the Victory of 100 guns, then repairing; and he was filled with wonder at her extraordinary size. About midsummer, he appears to have accom- panied Mr. Banks to his seat in Lincolnshire ; and in the end of July, or beginning of August, Mr. Banks took him to York races. Here thej^ met with the Hon. Capt. Phipps, and his brother, the 276 LIFE OF COOK. Hon. Augustus Phipps, then a boy ; and witli Messrs. Colman, father and son, the celebrated dramatists, the son being at that time only 13 years of age. After the races, the whole party set out in Mr. Banks's carriage for Mulgrave, by way of Scarborough ; and some amusing particulars relat- ing to tliis journey, may be seen in Mr. Geo. Col- man's Random Records. Mr. Colman gives a humorous description of Sir Joseph's ponderous carriage, with its appurtenances; and of the frequent stoppages occasioned by his botanizing propensities. The party arrived at Scarborough in the evening ; and early next morn- ing, young Colman went to the sands, to bathe for the first time in the ocean. His adventure here with Omai will be best described in his own words. " I was upon the point of making my maiden plunge, from a bathing-machine, into the briny flood, when Omai appeared wading before me. The coast of Scarborough having an eastern aspect, the early sunbeams shot their lustre upon the tawny Priest, and heightened the cutaneous gloss which he had already received from the water : he looked like a specimen of pale moving mahogany, highly varnished; not only varnished, indeed, but curiously veneered; for, from the small of his back downwards he was taltoived with striped arches, broad and black, by means of a sharj) shell, or a fish's tooth, imbued with an indelible die, according to tlie fashion of his country. He hailed me with the salutation of 7'osh (George), and uttered certain sounds ap- proaching to the articulation of — " back " — swim " — " I "— " me "— " carry"—" you ." This attempt at the English language became intelligible to me from his ** suiting the action to the utterance ," or I 1 1' ; and with i celebrated ,nly 13 years party set out e, by way of iculars relat- Ir. Geo. Col- ription of Sir )purtenances; ioned by his y arrived at ly next morn- i, to bathe for dventure here lis own words, g my maiden [ito the briny g before me. eastern aspect, pon the tawny s gloss which ter: he looked logany, highly I, but curiously ick downwards road and black, ; tooth, imbued tlie fashion of 3 salutation of |in sounds ap- back"— swim" This attempt telligible to me ; utterance ," or OMAI AT SCARBOROUGH. 277 » rather elucidating the utterance by the action ; and the proposition was, that lie should swim out to sea with me. I was * not .Tohn O' Gaunt ; but no coward, Hal ! ' — and, considering that I had never yet ventured into the sea, — and that the person to wliose care I committed myself, in so novel and nervous an exploit, was almost a stranger, and that stranger a savage, — my immediate acceptance of his offer, by springing out of the bathing-machine upon his back, may be looked upon as a bold measure, rather than otherwise." — " Omai, who was highly pleased with my confi- dence in him, walked a considerable way, before the water came up to his chin ; he then struck out ; and having thus iveighed anchor for this my first voyage, I found myself on board the Omai, decidedly not as commander of the vessel, but as a passive passenger, who must submit, without effort, to the very worst that could happen. My wild friend appeared as much at home upon the waves as a rope-dancer upon a cord ; but, as soon as he had got out of his depth, my apprehensions were aroused, and I began to think that, if he should take a sudden fancy to dive, or to turn round and float witli his face towards the sky, T who was upon his back must be in a very awkward situation. Every fresh motion of his arms and legs carried us some yards further out ; and in the intervals of these efforts, he constantly cried, " Tosh not f raid',' but Tosh was fraid, and plaguily frightened in- deed ; — that's the plain truth. After a time, how- ever, we went on so steadily, that my fears gradually subsided, and I listened tranquilly to the jargon of my vfihicle, who taught me several words in his own language, which had all some reference to our im- 278 LIFE Ol' COOK. t. mediate circumstances, and meant, 'swim, drown, boat, ship, fishes, &c.' — At last, I felt not only quite at ease, but delighted with my mode of vectigation ; it had doubtless one advantage over sailing in a ship, for there was no rolling and pitching about, to occasion sea-sickness ; and I made my way as smoothly as Arion upon his dolphin. I could not, indeed, touch the lyre, nor had I any musical instrument to play upon, unless it were the comb which Omai carried in one hand, and which he used while swimming, to adjust his harsh black locks, hanging in profusion over his shoulders. Having performed a trip of full three quarters of an hour, the Omai came gallantly into harbour, all safe, passenger in good health." " On landing, we found our fellow-travellers on the shore. My young friend Augustus was vexed that he was not with us ; but if he had, he would probably have been de trop [over- weight], for I much doubt whether the South-Sea Triton could have carried double. My father looked a little grave at my having been so venturous ; the noble Captain and the Philosopher laughed heartily, and called me a tough little fellow ; and Omai and I were henceforth constant companions." In the latter part of the day, the party proceeded to Mulgrave by way of Whitby ; and in recording this journey, the facetious dramatist, after noticing the perilous descent to the sands at Upgang, thus describes the dangers incurred in passing along the shore. " When we got upon the sands, the wind had risen, the sea roared, and it was almost dark ; the horses took fright, dragged the carriage into the surf; and the evening marine trip threat- ened to be much less propitious than my morning's ^\ \ OMAI AT IMULGRAVE. 270 1, drown, nly quite jtigation ; ling in a ng about, ly way as ;ould not, r musical the comb which he rsh black shoulders, uartere of Eirbour, all vellers on was vexed , he would ;ht], for I ton could id a little the noble artily, and mai and I proceeded I recording er noticing gang, thus sing along sands, the ivas almost le carriage trip threat- j morning's » M excursion upon the back of Omai. The unusual situation in which we were placed, must, I think, have puzzled the brave Sea-Captain, and the navigating Philosopher; for, however they might have been ice-locked, or tempest-tost, they had never hitheilo begun a voyage in a post coach and four." But the postboys piloted them through this danger, and set them down safe at Mulgrave. It was now the sporting season, late in August ; but the heads of the party at Mulgrave took little or no share in the sport, for, says Colman, " the commander of the North Pole expedition, and the visitor of the South-Sea Islands, disdained to shoot at any bird or beast more common than a penguin or a bear. — Omai, however, prowled about the pre- cincts with a gun ; — and, if practice can lead to perfection, he promised to be an excellent marks- man ; for he popped at all the feathered creation that came in his way; and which happened, for the most part, to be dunghill cocks, barn-door geese, and ducks in the pond. His slaughter of domestic birds was by no means inconsiderable ; he knew nothing of our distinctions between meum and tuum, nor of any of our laws whatever ; and had it not been that he was naturally a tender-hearted barba- rian, it is probable that, after having killed off a farmer's live stock, he might have taken a shot at the farmer himself. Even when he had to deal with the /tf/* un mighty mysteri- ously, and put his finger on my mouth, to enjoin silence ; — he then stole onwards, crouching along the ground for several yards ; till, on a sudden, he darted forward like a cat, and sprung upon a covey of partridges, one of which he caught, and took home alive, in great triumph." — " I was present at another instance of Oraonisin in my tattowed friend, when, with the intent to take a ride, he seized a grazing horse by the tail ; the astounded animal galloped off, wincing and plunging, and dragging Ins tenacious assailant after him, till he slipped from his grasp, and left him in the mire. How Omai contrived to dodge the horse's heels, and escape with his brains in his head, I cannot explain. He was not always so intrepid; there was a huge bull in the grounds, which kept him at a respectful distance ; and of which he always spoke reverentially as the man- cow." This part of Colman's reminiscences is confirmed by the testimony of aged persons, living in the vicinity. Mr. R. Rayne of Whitby, a native of Sandsend, recollects Omai well ; and states, among other things, that, during his stay at Mulgrave, he was one day found perched in a tree ; and when asked why he had taken post there, he said that he had been frightened by the great man-cow. As to the chief employments of this party, Mr. Colman informs us, that Sir Joseph pursued his favourite study — botany, and sent the two youths every morning into Mulgrave woods, to gather plants for him. The gallant Captain, he remarks, had become "an antiquarian resurrection man," and " now he had dismounted from his race-horse OMAI AT MULGRAVI',. 2.S1 ty mysteii- 1, to enjoin hing along sudden, he jon a covey ;, and took :)f Orsonisin e intent to by tlie tail ; incing and sailant after left him in dodge the ains in his t always so he grounds, ice; and of Eis the man- ia confirmed ving in the a native of ates, among [ulgrave, he and when said that he oow. is party, Mr. pursued his two youths , to gather he remarks, ction man," RACE-HORSE [the nimie of his ship], which had carried him in his marine hunt after the North Pole", being still bent on discovery, he had chosen for his " terres- trial hobby," the opening of tumuli, or barrows, on the moors. "It was a kind of field-day," says Colman, "whenever we opened a tumulus; — a grand muster of all our party, attended by heljiers, each carrying ' a pick-axe and a spade, a spade ;' and as the operation, which occupied several hours, was effected at some distance liom the house, we pitched a tent upon the scene of action, under which we dined." The culinary operations of the party are humorously described. In these, "the talents of Omai shone out most conspicuously, and he beat all his competitors." He dug a Tahitian oven on the moor, and baked his dinner in grand style : but, instead of a South Sea dog, he dressed a couple of fine Ibwls ; for plantain leaves, to wrap the food in, he had writing paper, smeared with butter ;" for yams, he had potatoes ; for the bread fruit, bread itself, the best home-made in Yorkshire." — " As to Omai's dish, in the eating, nothing could be better dressed, or more savoury : the smouldering pebble-stones and embers of the Otahitian oven, had given a certain flavour to the ibwls, which made them taste as if a ham accom- panied them. This saving by the bye, in procuring the relish of a ham, without incurring the expense of the ham itself, argues greatly in favour of Omai's receipt, and is well worthy the consideration of all good house-wives. As to the potatoes, all the Paddies of the Emerald Isle must own themselves outdone in the cooking o{ praties." Of the results of these exhumations, Colman, being no antiqua- rian, speaks with great contempt : " they consisted MR* 1 i !i. i i ■i- •> 282 LIl'E OF COOK. of a few crumbling pots, dignified by the name of ums, of less intrinsic value than a Staffordshire pipkin ; and some small pieces of copper money, with which it was impossible to toss up, for they boasted neither heads nor tails." During his stay at Mulgrave Castle, Omai occasionally visited Whitby, which Colman omits to mention. F. Wardale, Esq. and other aged in- h bitants recollect having seen him in the streets; where his appearance, as in other places, attracted much attention. When offered a pinch of snuff in the shop of Mr. Young, in Bridge Street, he replied, as at Cambridge, that his nose was not hungry ; yet Mr. Young persuaded him to try it. From Mulgrave, the whole party proceeded to- wards the north, the Hon. Capt. Phipps, and his brother, accompanying their guests, first to Skelton Castle, then the seat of the meriy J. S. Hall, Esq.; and next day to Kirkleatham Hall, the family mansion of Sir Charles Turner, Bart. After re- maining here three or four days, the Colmans left the party, and proceeded into the county of Dur- ham. Before their departure, they were gratified with the sight of a worthy individual, thus noticed in the Random Records : " In the adjacent village of Kirkleatham, there was, at this time, an individual residing in a neat comfortable cottage, who excited much interest in the visitors at the hall. His looks were venerable from his great age, and his deportment was above that which is usually found among the lowly in- habitants of a hamlet. How he had acquired this air of superiority over his neighbours, it is difficult to say, for his origin must have been humble. His eightieth summer had nearly passed away; and. ,' ) COOKS FATHEK. 283 ! name of iffordshire er money, I, for they Je, Omai (lan omits r aged in- he streets; , attracted h of snuft' Street, he e was not to try it. ceeded to- s, and his to Skelton Hall, Esq.; the family After re- )lmans left ty of Dur- e gratified ms noticed liam, there in a neat interest in venerable was above lowly in- quired this ; is difficult mble. His iway; and. only two or three years ]>reviously, he had learned to read, that he might gratify a parents pride and love, by perusing his son's first voyage round the world! — He was the Father of Capt. Cook. — This anecdote was told to us on the spot, and I vouch no further for its authenticity ; but, if it be true, there are few touches of human nature more simply aflfecting." This interesting notice of Mr. Cook contains two mistakes. He never resided at Kirkleatham, but was now living with his son and daughter, Mr. and Mrs. Fleck, at the village of Redcar, about two miles to the north of it ; though it is natural to suppose, that when he heard that Mr. Banks and Omai were at Kirkleatham Hall, he would come hither to see them. The statement, that he had now for the first time learned to read, is also erroneous. He appears to have been able from his youth to read the Bible, and his family Bible is still in the possession of one of his de- scendants. Ten years before this time, he had carved and lettered the family tomb-stone in Ayton church yard, containing an inscription of con- siderable length ; which we can scarcely suppose him capable of doing, had he then been unable to read and write. Yet as the narrative of his son's voyage contains many words that must have been new to him, he might require some assistance in perusing it; and this most probably gave rise to the mistake. While Omai and young Colman were together, they were reciprocally schoolmaster and scholar, teaching each other their respective languages ; and it has been supposed, that during his further stay at Kirkleatham, Omai received some lessons in f r I PP W [ V wt ■I I Ml !. ( 111 284 MFK OV COOK. the grammar school there ; as he is known to have visited Mr. Jackson of CJuisborough, more than once, along with his boys who then attended the school. An aged inliabitant of Whitby, Ralj)h Mil- burn, then living- at (liiisborough, saw him there at different times. His lessons, if he got any, seem to have been of small service. It is natural to think, that as soon as Captain Cook had a little leisure, he would pay another visit to his venerable father, and to his relations and friends in the north. Whether he visited them at this time, and joined Mr. Banks and Omai at Kirkleatham, to return with them to town, has not been ascertained. His visit, if paid at all, must have been very short; for, however much he might stand in need of relaxation, his numerous en- gagements in town prevented him from enjoying it. Yet his attachment to his early friends, was as strong as ever ; while his celebrity acquired for him new friendships, among persons of superior rank and worth. Of those whose friendship he began about this time to enjoy, one of the most illustrious was Constantine John, liord Mulgrave, mentioned by Colman in the foregoing extracts as the Hon. Capt. Phipps. He succeeded to the title about the very time when he accompanied his visitoi-s to Kirklea- tham ; for his father, Constantine, Lord Mulgrave, died at the Spa, in Germany, in the middle of September. His Lordship having made a near approach to the north pole, in the summer of 1773, only a few months before Cook made his nearest approach to the south pole,* naturally felt an * The Rev. Wm. Scorcsby, A.B., F.R.S., formerly Capt. Scoresby, Jun., of \^liilby, in one of his Greenland voyagcu, ■ill. ^ LORD MULGRAVi: 285 n to have lore than nded the alph Mil- n there at f, seem to s Captain y another ; relations dted them 1 Omai at n, has not ^ all, must I he mipfht lerous en- i enjoying iends, was ;quired for >f superior about this trious was itioned by Ion. Capt. It the very o Kirklea- Mulpjrave, middle of de a near er of 1773, his nearest y felt an nnerly Capt. and voyages, interest in his brother navii^ator, who had en- countered similar perils, for a greater length of time, and had displayed talents, courage, and firm- ness, akin to his own. His friendshij) for Capt. Cook was lasting, and His Lordshij) was one of the few who subscribed twenty guineas each, for the gold medal, struck to his memory.* If Capt. Cook visited the north in the autumn, his presence in town was speedily required, as he was consulted by the Lords of the Admiralty, on every thing relating to the new expedition now projected ; and among other things, as to the most proper person to take the command. At this time, all eyes were turned to himself, as the person most eminently qualified to conduct the enterprise ; but, after the sacrifices he had made, and the arduous services he had accomplished, for the public good, it seemed so unreasonable to require him to en- former irees, with a French navigator, who had made tlie nearest approach to the south pole; and taking him by tlie hand, said, "The north pole shakes hands with tl\e soutli pole." In a similar way. Lord Mul^rave and Capt. Cook met in friendship, though the scenes of their enterprise were " wide as the poles asunder." * See a biographical notice of Lord Mulgrave, the Navigator, in the History of Whitby and the Vicinity, vol. H, p. 863. &c. According to statements, which the author thinks he has heard from old persons in Whitby, several years ago, Captain Cook visited Mulgrave as well as Wliitby, between his second and third voyages, and was hospitably entertained by the noble navigator. — With regard to his visit to Whitby, after his lirst voyage, it ought to have been stated above, at p. 120, that on the day when he came over from Ayton to Whitby, some of the principal gentlemen of Whitby went out to meet him on horse- back as far as Swarthoue Cross, a distance of four miles, to escort him into the town; a mark of respect which did honour to themselves, as well as to him. Mrs. Watt of Whitby was at Mr. VValkcr's on the day of his arrival, and recollects the cordial salutation of Mary Prowde. See p. 121. made a nearer approach to the north pole than any for navigator. He met in Paris, at one of Baron Cuvier's Soir 286 I.IFF. OF COOK. counter new perils, tliat ir. one, not even liord Sandwich himself, would presume to name it. An opportunity, however, was given him to volunteer his services. Lord Sandwicli invited him to dinner, along with his friends, Sir Hugh Palliser and Mr. Stephens. The conversation turned on the nature and objects of the new expedition ; when the gran- deur of the design, its consequences to navigation and science, and the perfection it would give to the whole system of discoveries, were set forth in such glowing colours, that our hero, fired with the con- templation of the object, started up, and declared that he himself would take the command. His offer was at once joyfully accepted, and the ap- pointment meeting with His Majesty's cordial ap- probation, took effect on the 9th of February, 1 776 ; it being agreed, that on his return home, he should resume his situation in Greenwich Hospital. The satisfaction which Capt. Cook felt in this appointment, is expressed in a letter which he wrote four days afler to his friend Mr. Walker, the last of his letters to that gentleman now extant. I * m Mile-end, Uth Feb., 1776. Dear Sir, I should have answered your last favour sooner, but waited to know, whether I should go to Greenwich Hospital, or the South Sea. The latter is now fixed upon ; I expect to be ready to sail about the latter end of April, with my old ship the Resolution, and the Discovery, the ship lately purchased of Mr. Herbert. I know not what your opinion may be on this step I have taken. It is certain I have quitted an easy retirement, for an active, and perhaps dangerous voyage. My present I HIS r.ITERARY HONOirRS. 287 le it. An unteer his ,o dinner, • and Mr. he nature the gran- lavigation Tive to the th in such h the con- 1 declared md. His id the ap- ordial ap- February, n home, he 1 Hospital, felt in this which he Valker, the extant. Feb., 1776. d your last ler I should Sea. The be ready to my old ship ship lately t what your aken. it is lent, for an My present t . The former, being- deemed the best experimental paper of that year, was consider- ed as entitling him to Sir Godfrey Copley's gold medal. The Captain was doubtless apprized, that this honour was designed for him ; but he had set out on his third voyage some months before St. Andrew's day, the time when it was publicly awarded : it was therefore delivered into the hands of Mrs. Cook. On the occasion of the assignment of this medal, Sir John Pringle delivered a Judi- cious and eloquent discourse, on the value of Cook's services as a navigator, and particularly of the means which he employed for preserving the health of his crew. After noticing the glory which Cook had acquired as a navigator. Sir .lohn pro- ceeds to say, " I shall not, however, expatiate on that ample field of praise, but confine my discourse to what was the intention of this honorary pre- mium, namely, to crown that paper of the year which should contain the most useful and most successful experimental inquiry. Now, what in- quiry can be so useful as that which hath for its object the saving the lives of men ? And when shall v/e find one more successful than that before us ? Here are no vain boastings of the empiric, nor ingenious and delusive theories of the dogma- tist ; but a concise, an artless, and an incontested relation &c." The President then goes on to con- trast with Cook's success in preserving his crew, the havoc made among seamen in former voyages of discovery ; and to illustrate and recommend the various salutary methot's adopted by our naviga- tor, for preventing scurvy, and promoting health at sea. On the subject of procuring fresh water he HIS LITERARY HONOURS. 289 ;al Transac- deemed the ^as consider- 'opley's gold pprized, that t he had set IS before St. ;^as publicly to the hands 3 assignment ered a judi- he value of irticularly of eserving the glory which ir .John pro- expatiate on [nv discourse onorary pre- of the year il and most )W, what in- i liath for its And when 1 that before the empiric, f the dogma- incontested 3S on to con- ng his crew, •mer voyages ommend the our naviga- ing health at esh water he 4- W \ remarks; "Not satisfied with plenty, he would have the purest; and therefore whenever an oppor- tunity offered, he emptied what he had taken in but a few days before, and filled his casks anew. But was he not above four months in his passage from the Cape of Good Hope to New Zealand, in the frozen zone of the south, without once seeing land ? and did he not actually complete his cir- cumnavigation, in that high latitude, without the benefit of a single fountain ? Here was indeed a wonder of the deep ! I may call it the romance of liis voyage ! Those very shoals, fields, and floating mountains of ice, among which he steered his perilous course, and which presented such terrify- ing prospects of destruction ; those, I say, were the very means of his support, by supplying him abundantly with what he most wanted." The discourse is closed in the following terms . " As to your acknowledgments to Capt. Cook, and your high opinion of his deserts, you will best testify them, by the honourable distinction sug- gested by your Council, in presenting him wdth this medal : for I need not gather your suffrages, since tlie attention with which you have favoured me, hath abundantly expressed your approbation. My satisfaction, therefore, had been complete, had he liimself been present to receive the honours you now confer upon him. But you are apprized, that our brave and indefatigable Brother is, at this in- stant, far removed from us, anticipating, I may say, your wonted request on these occasions, by continuing his labours for the advancement of Natural Knowledge, and for the honour of this Society: as you may be assured, that the object of 20 290 LIFE OF COOK. I.; U ' f f tliis new enterprise is not less great, perliaps still greater, than either of the former." " Allow me then. Gentlemen, to deliver this medal, with his unperishing name engraven upon it, into the hands of one who will be happy to receive that trust, and to know that this respectable Body never more cordially, nor more meritoriously, bestowed that faithful symbol of their esteem and affection. For if Rome decreed the Civic Crown to him who saved the life of a single citizen, v/hat wreaths are due to that man, who, having himself saved many, perpetuates in your Transactions, the means by which Britain may now, on the most distant voyages, preserve numbers of her intrepid sons, her Mariners; who, braving every danger, have so liberally contributed to the fame, to the opulence, and to the maritime empire, of their country!" As the assignment of this high reward did not take place till our hero had entered on his third voyage, so it was at a period still later, that he had the honour of appearing as an author, by the pub- lication of his " Voyage towards the South Pole, and round the World." For some months he had the double task, of preparing for his third voyage, and drawing up for the press a narrative of the second. The narrotive, however, was not a labour- ed composition ; being little more than a transcript of his journal, written during tlie voyage. Yet considerable pains would be required, both in transcribing, dividing, and correcting what lie had written; and in availing himself of useful hints and notices, contained in the journals of Mr. Wales and others. It is matter of regret, that he had not the satis- faction of seeing the work published before lie II' NARRATIVE OF HIS SECOND VOYAGE. 291 t, perhaps still o deliver this engraven upon be happy to his respectable meritoriously, eir esteem and Civic Crown to citizen, v/hat liaving himself insactions, the , on the most )f her intn. oid y danger, have ) the opulence, country!" ew^ard did not d on his tliird !r, that he had r, by the pub- Soutli Pole, Qonths he had third voyage, irrative of the not a labour- in a transcri[)t voyage. Yet ired, both in ■ what he had useful hints of Mr. Wales not the satis- led before lie ¥ sailed. ^Nluch time was required for engraving the Plates, 63 in number, the expense of which, a- mounting to £2000, was liberally defrayed by the government. Yet this was not the sole cause of delay. Forster the naturalist (who had acquired the title L.L.D.) claimed the honour of drawing up the account of the voyage, and his claim was so far allowed, that it was for some time intended to come out as the joint production of Capt. Cook and Dr. Forster ; the fonner supplying the narra- tive, the latter a variety of philosophical observa- tions, and both having an equal share in the profits of the work. An agreement to this effect was drawn up in April, 1776; but, after examining some spe- cimens of the Doctor's work, the Lords of the Admiralty very judiciously resolved, that Cook's narrative should appear by itself, and Forster's observations form a separate volume ; at the same time securing to the Doctor his share in the profits of the plates. The Captain, who sailed within less than three months after this decision, left his work ready for the press, and engaged his friend Dr. Douglas, afterwards Bishop of Carlisle, to superintend the printing; yet it did not come forth till the month of May, 1777. In the mean time, unauthorized attempts were made, as before, to gratify the public curiosity. Towards the close of 1775, a "Journal of the Resolution's voyage &c.," appeared, in the fonn of an 8vo volume, of above 300 pages, price 5s. It must have been a journal which some one on board had secreted, when other documents of that kind were delivered up ; and it gives a pretty fair ac- count of the leading events of the voyage, whilst in some particulars it is glaringly incorrect. A small I!: > m 202 MFi: OF COOK. 4to volume, })rice Os, Gd., the substance of some other secreted journal, came out about half a year later. It abounds with marvellous tales, and stories of cruelty ; some of which are downright fictions, while others are gross misrepresentations of what really occurred. Several of its statements, contain- ing unjust reflectiors on individuals, were publicly contradicted by the Captain and his friends. But the principal unauthorized publicaticm, con- cerning the voyage, and the only one likely to rival that of Capt. Cook, did not appear till several months after the latter had sailed. In March, 1777, Mr. Geo. Forster published a narrative of the voyage, in two volumes, 4to, price £2 2s. This young man, chagrined at his fiither's being pre- vented from giving " a philosophical history of the voyage, free from prejudice and vulgar error, — an account written upon a plan which the learned world had not hitherto seen executed," resolved to give a narrative of the voyage himself, with the assistance of his father's journals. His work is valuable, and well written, and we may excuse his extravagant notions of his father's talents ; but we cannot so easily excuse his attempt to depreciate those of Capt. Cook, whose work was then about to issue from the press. Mr. Forster, in his pre- face, not only blames the Lords of the Admiralty, for their supposed neglect of his father,* and })ar- * Dr. Forster, insf cad of bcin": ncglpctod, Avas highly honour- ed. He was preaonted to the King, at Kow, asl.ort time attir Jiis arr'val, and Avas graciously received. The Lords of ilic Admiralty treated Iiim with respect; and iie had no right to complain, that they would not consent to his engrossing the Iionours which belonged to Capt. Cook. He was noiiccd a few days after his arrival in town, by some ^cnlrj; wiiose visit lie would rather have dispensed with ; his house beinij' broken into and plundered. ms MKRITS AS AN AUTIKdJ. 2!):] )stance of some lOut half a year tales, and stories wnvight fictions, itations of what ements, contain- Is, were publicly lis friends, publication, con- )ne likely to rival pear till several In March, 1777, narrative of the ce £2 2s. This ther's being pre- cal history of the vulgar error,— an hich the learned Lited," resolved to limself, with the Is. His work is ^e may excuse his s talents; but we tnpt to depreciate ; wan then about orster, in his pre- )f the Admiralty, father,* and par- ed, was liiglilyl»onour- ^ow, asliort liiuo alter cl. The Lords of llic and in' htul no ri^lit l" fo lus ongrossinfi the H e \v as noticed a t e w ^enlr^ wliosc visit lie louse being- broken into tiality to Captain Cook ; but insinuates, that the latter was incapable of writing a proper narrative of the voyage, that the forthcoming work was only Haul to be his, and that "the public must again converse with him by means of an interpreter." When the authorized narrative itself appeared, in two V^olumes 4to. (price £2 12s. 6d.), the injustice of such illiberal reflections was made manifest. It was obviously the Captain's own composition ; and instead of proving a dry detail of nautical matters, it was found, as the Monthly Review justly observed, to be "a well digested narrative, accompanied with observations on men and things, that would do credit even to a philosopher, or a writer by profession ; and clothed in a natural and manly style." As a composition, it even exceeded the anticipations of his friends. His style, like his own character, is clear, simple, and nervous. Fors- ter's work, indeed, has more of elegance and orna- ment ; Cook's is more distinguished for plainness, strength, and utility. In the latter, as might be expected, there are more inaccuracies, and fewer beauties, than in the former ; yet Cook always expresses himself well, his style is easy, as well as manly ; and, on the whole, its very simplicity gives it a charm, which a more polished mode of writing- would scarcely have possessed. His General In- ^oduction, which, from the variety of matter com- prised in it, must have cost him much labour, was finished only a few days before he set sail on his l^evv expedition. It closes with the following ]|aodest remarks, which are the more interesting ind valuable, as being among the last which he Wrote in his native land. ' " And now it may be necessary to say, that as I 204 LIFE OF COOK. )':H i i 1. Ii i: ji Jim on the point of sailincf on ii third expedition, I leave this account of my last voyage in the hands of some friends, who in my absence have kindly accepted the office of correcting the press for me ; who are pleased to think, that what I have here to relate, is better to be given in my own words, than in the words of another person ; especially as it is a work designed for information, and not merely for amusement ; in which, it is their opinion, that candour and fidelity will counterbalance the want of ornament." "I shall therefore conclude this introductory discourse, with desiring the reader to excuse the inaccuracies of style, which doubtless he will fre- quently meet with in the following narrative ; and that, when such occur, he will recollect that it is the production of a man, who has not had the advan- tage of much school education, but who has been constantly at sea from his youth ; and though, with the assistance of a few good friends, he has passed through all the stations belonging to a seaman, from an apprentice in the coal trade, to a Post Captain in the Royal Navy, he has had no oppor- tunity of cultivating letters. After this account of myself, the Public must not expect from me the elegance of a fine writer, or the plausibility of a professed book-maker; but will, I hope, consider me as a plain man, zealously exerting himself in the service of his country, and determined to give the best account he is able of his proceedings." "Plymouth Sound, July 7, 1776." It is one excellence of Capt. Cook's work, that in every part of it, we find him more ready to commend, than to censure. A different spirit is Pit] m m WORKS RELATINO TO THE V(>YAGE. 295 rd expedition, ^e in the hands e have kindly I press for me ; I have here to m words, than lecially as it is nd not merely opinion, that mce the want 5 introductory to excuse the 3SS he will fre- larrative ; and ict that it is the lad the advan- who has been d though, with he has passed to a seaman, ide, to a Post lad no oppor- his account of from me the ausibility of a lope, consider ng himself in mined to give ceedings." k's work, that nore ready to brent spirit is '$. breathed by Mr. Forster, who, in many passages, prefers charges of ignorance, cruelty, and brutality, both against the officers, and the men. These charges were rebutted by Mr. Wales, in an 8vo. pamphlet, published in 1778, entitled, " Remarks on Mr. Forster's Account of Captain Cook's last Voyage," &c. In these remarks, which are rather severe, Mr. Wales denies the statements of Mr. Forster, in various particulars ; and alleges that Dr. Forster, who, like his son, had " very exalted notions of himself," was extremely quarrelsome on board ; and so far from being more humane than others, required to be checked, both by Capt. Cook and Lieut. Clerke, for acts of wanton cruelty. Mr. Forster published a reply, well seasoned with acri- mony, in which, while he denies several assertions of Mr. Wales, he admits that it was not unusual for his father to have warm, and even very violent disputes with the Captain, who, on one occasion, insisted on Dr. Forster's leaving his apartment.* It is no small proof of the forbearance and good spirit of our navigator, that although Dr. Forster appears to have so often annoyed him, he never in the course of the narrative, mentions him disre- spectfully, f * The critics of those times disagree in their verdict on this controversy; the Monthly Review and the Gentleman's Maga- zine condemning Mr. Forster, while the London Magazine favours him, and the Town and Country Magazine highly applauds him, and fiercely runs down Mr. Wales. f Mr. Forster alleges (Vol. II. p. 420), that most of the gentlemen on board did every thing m their power to thwart him and his father in their pursuits, but seems to acquit the Captain of sharing in this hostility ; when he says, that they were in danger of falling " victims to that malevolence, which even the positive commands of Captain Cook were sometimes insufficient to keep within bounds." The truth seems to be, ■T 290 LIFE OF COOK. ': I 4f. ',-1 I iC 1' I . I »li 4i n !! V(: Dr. Forsters own work, entitled, " Observutiona made during- a Voyau^e round the World, on Physi- cal Geography, Natural History, and ilthic Piiilo- sophy; especially on the biarth, its Strata, &€.," appeared in one volume 4to., in 1778. It contains a mass of valuable information, and interestinf;' researches, concernino;' the human race, and the various departments of natural history. While it displays much talent and learning, no one who reads it can regret that it was published by itself, instead of being mixed u}) with Cook's narrative. To general readers, the metaphysical dis(|uisitions, and favourite theories of the author, will be found to possess little interest ; and instead of adorning the work of our navigator, they would rather have seemed to disfigure it. Yet, in a scientific point of view, Forster's Observations, as well as his son's narrative, may be regarded as of great value. Their philological remarks are more accurate than tliose of Cook, and in spelling Tahitian names and words, their orthography corresponds more witli that of the Missionaries, who having resided for that the intolerable vanity of the Forstcrs induced several of the officers to take a pleasure in mortifying them. Under the influence of mortified vanity, and disappointed ambition, Mr. Forster, in June, 1778, published a most abusive Letter to the Earl of Sandwich, charging His Lordship with atrocious acts of injustice towards him and his fatiicr, and imputing these to the sinister influence of a favourite lady, Miss Ray, who was offended at being refused some of the beautiful birds, which Dr. Forster brought home and presented to the Queen. He also prefers charges of selfishness against Capt. Cook, which the latter could now have no opportunity of repelling. It is curious to observe, that he accuses Lord Sandwich of malice, in fixing the price of Cook's work so low as to injure the sale of his. Jt might have been retorted, that he took care to get the start of Cook's narrative, to injure ils sale. Of the latter, however, according to Forster's statement, 3000 copies had thou been sold. t If ■■ EQUIPMENT or THE SHICS. 297 " Observatioiirt orkl,<)u IMiysi- d l':tliic riiilo- s Strata, &c.,'' 8. It contains .vA interesting race, and the ory. Wliile it r, no one who lislied by itself, ook's narrative, al dis(|uisitions, ', will be found ad of adorning »uld rather have scientific point well as his svin's jat value. Their arate than those ian names and )nds more with ing resided for induced several of r them. y, and disappointed ished a most abusive r His Lordship with and his t'atlicr, and >t' a favourite lady, efused some of the home and presented f selfishness against have no opportunity at he accuses Lord Cook's work so low B been retorted, that irrative. to injure its Forstcr's statement, years at tlie islands, must be I)est acquainted v/itli tlie true pmnunciation of the language. The Forsters observed correctly, that the in O-taheite, 0-mai, &c., is only a })reH\, and not properly a part of the name.* The original Astronomical Observations of Mes- sieurs Wales and Bayley, made during the Voy- age, were published by authority, near the close of 1777, in one volume, 4to. price One (Guinea. These Observations, like Dr. Forsters, were very properly detached from Cook's work. A valuable Introduction was prefixed by Mr. Wales, in which, among other things, a description is given of his Portable Observatory. The equipment of the two ships for the new expedition had engaged much of Capt. Cook's attention, before lie was himself a{)pointed to take the command. Tlie Discovery, a bark of 295 tons burthen, which was to accompany the Resolution, was selected by him ; and, like all his former ships, was a Whitby vessel. It was built in 1774, by those eminent builders, Messrs. G. and N. Lang- borne, for Mr. Wm. Herbert, of Scarborough ; ' • Dr. Andreas Sparrman, the assistant of Dr. Porster, did Dot come to Enj^land in the Resolution, but remained at the Cape, where he had embarked. He performed a journey into the interior of Africa, in August, 1775, and sent a paper to the Royal Society, giving an account of this journey, and of some discoveries which he made in natural history. The two Forsters published, in November, 177r>, in one Volume 4to (price £1 7s.), a botanical work entitled, Charac- teres Generum Plantarum, &c., exhibiting their principal dis- coveries in botany during the voyage. It is valuable, but too dear; and serves to illustrate the characters of the authors, as well as of the plants ; for, as the Monthly Review observes, the vast size of the plates, compared with the minuteness of the subjects delineated, *' while it enhances the price of the volume, gives it an air of ostentation approaching to the ludicrous.'" 298 LIFF, or COOK. ■ ! 1. () tf- • ' and was originally called the Diligenee. It is scarcely necessary to observe, that the Earl of Sandwich, Sir Huji'h Palliser, and the rest of tiie Board of Admiralty, made every provision for the due equipment of the vessels ; and took s})ecial care to consult, in all respects, the comfort of our navigator. Ca})t. Cook preferred his own ship, the Resolution ; and, in accordance with his wishes, the command of the Discovery was given to Capt. Charles Clerke, who had been one of his Lieuten- ants in both his voyrges, and was originally pro- moted by himself. Several others of his former shipmates, both officers and men, gladly embarked with him again, in this new enterprise. The two vessels were plentifully supplied, not only with an excellent stock of provisions and necessaries of all kinds, but with those antiscor- butics, which during the last voyage, were found to be of so much utility in preserving health. An extra supply of clothing for the men, adapted to the climates in which they were to be employed, was also liberally furnished. The frame work of a small vessel, sent out in the Resolution before, had never been used j yet, as the Captain found that it might have been useful in exploring such a coast as that of New Caledonia, and as it might afford the means of safety, in case of shipwreck, each ship was now furnished with a frame of this kind, to be used as occasion might require. As our navigator had humanely endeavoured to stock some of the countries which he visited, with useful animals and vegetables. His Majesty, to second his benevolent views, ordered a quantity of live stock, including a bull and two cows, with their calves, to be put on board for Otaheite, and J J I nf OFFICERS AI»l'OINTi:i). 2!)1) b'once. It is the Eurl of le rest of the ision for tlie took sj)ecial mifort of our own ship, tlie his wislies, iven to Capt. his Lieuten- iginally pro- )f his former lly embarked upplied, not ovisions and ose antiscor- , were found health. An , adapted to >e employed, me work of a n before, had found that it such a coast might afford •wreck, each of this kind, ieavoured to visited, with Majesty, to I quantity of cows, with taheite, and I other islands of tlie Pacific ; while directions were given to take on board other useful animals at the Cape of Good Hoi)e. A good supply of Eurojjean garden seeds was also furnished ; and a large stock of iron tools and trinkets, not only for pre- sents, but for barter. On this occosion, as in the former expeditions, the interests of science were not overlooked ; but, as the Ca})tain had, in his late Voyage, found him- self much annoyed by a portion of his scientific staff, he thought it best to dispense with the ser- vices of any professed philosopher. The depart- ment of astronomy was undertaken by himself, and his second Lieutenant, Mr. King ; and unto them the necessary astronomical instruments were delivered by the Board of Ijongitude, with the chronometer used in the last voyage. The province of natural history was assigned to Mr. Anderson, Surgeon of the Resolution, a gentleman possessed of considerable talents and learning ; who had assisted the Captain, in his late voyage, in pre- paring a copious vocabulary of the language of Otaheite, with specimens of other languages. A skilful artist, Mr. Webber, was also appointed to the Resolution ; and several of the young officers on board were well qualified to assist the Captain in constructing charts and plans. The Discovery was also provided with a good chronometer, and astronomical apparatus ; and Mr. William Bayley (or Bayly), who had distinguished himself by his skill and diligence as an astronomer on board the Adventure, now embarked in the Discovery, to assist Captain Clerke in the same capacity. The Resolution had the same complement of officers and men as before, and the Discovery had the 300 iiri: OF COOK. same complement as the Adventure, except that she had no marine ollicer on board. Messrs. (loro and Williamson were the first and third liieuten- ants of the llesolution, and Mr. rhilij)s, J iieutcnant of the Marines; Messrs. Burney and Jlickman were the Lieutenants of the Discovery ; and Mr. liaw, the Surfi^eon. After the ships had been (itted out at Deptford, and taken their stores on board, they j)roceeded down the river to liono; Reach ; where, on the 8th of June, the Earl of Sandwich, Sir Hugh Palliser, and others of the Board of Admiralty, as a last mark of their unremitting attention and special friendship, visited our navigator, to see if every thing had been provided according to his wishes ; and they dined with him on board the Resolution, accom})anied by several other noblemen and gentle- men. On the 15th, both ships sailed from liong Peach ; and the Discovery })roceeded towards Ply- mouth, while the Resolution remained at the Nore, till the Captain was ready to join her. He had returned to liondon, to complete his arrangements for the voyage, and to spend a few days with Mrs. Cook and his family; perhaps anticipating, that these might be, as alas ! they indeed proved, the last that he should ever spend with them. TVhen he finally quitted London, on Monday, June 24th, he was accompanied by Omai, the Tahitian, who now embarked with him, to return to his native country. This youth had become warmly attached to the British, ever since he land- ed on our shores ; and considering the hospitality which had been shewn him by persons of every rank, it is no wonder that he left them with regret. Yet his love to his native land, was as strong . s i rui;sr-NTs to «m\r. 301 lire, except tluil 1. MessrH. (Jon! (1 third liieuten- iili])s, Jiieutenant id Hickman wen? '; and Mr. liaw, out at Deptford, tliey {)roceeded here, on tlie 8th ir Hugli Palliser, liralty, as a hist tion and special to see if every ig- to his wishes ; I the Resolution, emen and gentle- ailed from Jiong [led towards Ply- ined at the Nore, in her. He had his arrangements ,v days with Mrs. mticipating, that leed proved, the h them. Ion, on Monday, 1 by Omai, the 1 him, to return nth had become er since he land- ^ the hospitality persons of every ;hem with regret, l^ was as strong as ever, and when the dear islands of the South Sea were named to iiim, liis eyes s})arkled with joy. As he liad been caressed during his stay, by men of all classes, from the prince to the peasant, so at his departure he was loaded with [)resents. His Majesty, who took a lively interest in liim tner since he was introduced to the royal presence at Kew Palace, furnished him with an ample supply of every thing fitted to make him rich and great in bis native place ; and Omai, on his part, felt a lively impression of duty and gratitude towards that amiable monarch. He received also rich presents from liord Sandwich, Sir Joseph ]5anks, and many other respectable friends, both gentlemen and ladies. While most of these presents were of a useful description, there were others that seemed unsuitable ; wliich were given him, because he took a fancy for them, as amusing toys. He received, among other things, a portable organ, a coat of mail, a suit of armour, an electrical machine ; with a rich variety of dresses and ornaments. It is much to be lamented, that during the two years which he spent in Britain, little was done to improve his understanding, or exalt his character. He became well acquainted with the amusements, the riches, the enjoyments, and the splendour of the liritisli ; but continued ignorant in a great measure of their sciences and arts, and still more of the principles of their religion. Some attempts, however, were made to instruct him. That well known philanthropist, the late Granville Shar}), Esq., became acquainted with iiim, and taught him :the first principles of writing; and it would seem that he had previously got some instructions in reading. He made such progress in the use oi" h'jy m 302 LfFi: OF COOK. letters, that on his voya<>e to the South Seas, he wrote a letter from the Cape of Good Hope to his fn'erid Dr. Solandar. Mr. Sharp endeavoured, as far as Omai's knovvledoe of our language allowed, to pour the light of divine truth into his untutored mind : and it appears that this philanthropist, or some other christian friend, presented him witli a large quarto English Bible, with numerous colour- ed engravings. This Bible, as Mr, Ellis in his Polynesian Researches observes. Vol. II, p. 97, was found by the Missionaries, many years after, in the possession of a young chief of Tahaa. His future conduct, however, shewed too clearly, that he had not imbibed the spirit of the Bible, and felt not the sacred influence of Christian principles. Omai took an affectionate leave of his London friends, and could scarcely refrain from tears, when the Captain afterwards spoke of them : but when he got on board the Resolution, his spirits soon be- came composed, and he felt quite happy. As two boats had been built for the Resolution at Deal, a crowd assembled there to see Omai, when the boats were taken on board ; but to their great disappoint- ment, he did not go ashore. On the 30th, the Resolution reached Plymouth, where the Discovery had arrived only three days before. Here supplies of water, wine, and fresh meat, were taken in. A fleet of 62 sail of trans- ports, with Hessian troops for America, \v?re in Plymouth Sound, on the 6th, under convoy of three ships of war. Our navigator could not help contrasting their object, with the peaceful and praiseworthy p jrpose of his own voyage ; and it is gratifying to notice that, in the progress of that lamentable war, orders were issued, both by the PLYMOUTH. 303 >out!i Seas, he d Hope to his ideavoured, as ►•uage allowed, his untutored lanthropist, or ed him with a nerous colour- Ellis in his II, p. 97, was yrears after, in Tahaa. His clearly, that Bible, and felt principles. 3f his London )m tears, when iin : but when pirits soon be- ippy. As two tion at Deal, a vhen the boats sat disappoint- ed Plymouth, ily three days ine, and fresh 1 sail of trans- erica, vv?re in ler convoy of ould not help peaceful and age ; and it is 3gress of that , both by the French Kinj:^, and by Dr. Benjamin Fianklin, the American Ambassador at Paris, directing- the Commanders of ships, of their res})ective countries, not to molest Capt. Cook, if they should fall in with him in the course of his voyage. It was on the 8th of July, that the Captain re- ceived his Instructions for the voyage ; marking out the course he should steer, the places which he should endeavour to visit, the objects which he should keep in view, &c. ; at the same time leaving a great deal, as before, to his own judgment and discretion. The principal object to be kept in view was, of course, the discovery of a passage from the Pacific to the Atlantic, by way of Behiing's Straits: and it may be remarked, that to encourage this attempt, the Parliament had lately passed an Act, securing a reward of £20,000 to any officer and his crew who should discover this passage, by sailing from the one sea to the other. To facilitate the success of their main under- taking, Lieut. Pickersgill was sent out in the Lion brig, a few weeks before Capt. Cook sailed, witli orders to protect the British whalers, and explore Baffin's Bay ; and after his return, Lieut. Young was sent out to that quarter, in the same vessel, next spring, with instructions to search for a pas- sage from the Atlantic to the Pacific ; iii order, if |.ossible, to meet Capt. Cook. These voyages led to no satisfactory result. It was at Plymouth, on the 7th of July, as noticed above, that our navigator put the finishing hand to the General Introduction to his second voyage. The publishing of his work was a subject that was now much on his mind, toge':lier with the grand object of his present voyage, as ajipears aSHBHBHH 304 LIFI' OF COOK. IVom ;i letter which he wrote to his Ayton friend, Commodore Wilson, two days hefore his departure from London. This letter, hitherto unpublished, the reader will think the more valuable, as bein<;- probably the last which he wrote to any of Ins friends in the north. fit ii i; ■ h( Mile End, June 22n(I, 1770. Dear Sir, I am at last upon the very })oint of setting out to join the Resolution at the Nore, and proceed on my voyap^e, the J !^tv 'on of which you have pretty well conjecturta. li I am not so fortunate as to make my passage home by the North Pole, I hope at least to determine, whether it is practicable, or not. From what we yet know, the attempt must be hazardous, and must be made with great caution. I am sorry I cannot furnish you with some New Zealand Flax seed, having not one grain of it left. Indeed, I brought hardly one home wi^h me, but left the most of what I had at the Cape, to try to cultivate it there ; for of all that was brought home in my former voyage, I have not heard of a single grain vegetating. It is much to be feared, that this ^ » ■ plant will never be raised in England. The Journal of my late Voyage, will be publi. i ed in the course of next winter, and I am to have the sole advantasje of the sale. It will want those flourishes which Dr. Hawkesworth gave the other, but it will be illustrated and ornamented with about sixty co{)per plates, which, I am of opinion, will exceed every thing that has been done in a work of this kind ; as they are all of them from Drawings made on the spot, by a very able ^ tist. LETTER TO COMMODORE WILSON. 305 Ay ton friend, his departure unpublished, able, us bein"- to any of his 20 22n(I, 1770. the very point L at the Nore, j stv "on of itvi. if I am ssage home by to determine, *^rom what we izurdous, and I am sorry I Zealand Flax !ft. Indeed, I , but left the ;ry to cultivate it home in my a single grain 1, that this f '»•. d. ill be publi. 1 :1 I am to have till want those gave the otlier, lamented with am of o:iinion, een done in a of them from ery able vtist. As to the Journal, it must speak for itself. I can only say, that it is my own narrative, and as it was ^ written during the voyage. If you, or any of your I friends, should want any [copies], care shall be I taken that you have of the first impressions. — 1 Mrs. Cook joins her best respects to you, Mrs. Wilson and family, with Dear Sir, Your most obliged and Very humble servant Jams. Cook. Wm. Wilson, Esq. 21 ~ie S!C&9i W:ii^ III CHAPTER XVIII. Departure from Plymouth. Arrival at Teneriffe — Port Praya — Cape of Good Hope. The Discovery joins the Resolution there. Voyage to tne isles discovered by Marion. Kergue> len's Land examined. Arrival at Van Diemen's Land. Peaceable behaviour of the natives : their manners, and habitations. Arrival at New Zealand. Intercourse with the natives. Health of the crew. Kahoora, the murderer of Mr. Rowe. Capt. Cook declines to avenge the massacre of the Adventure's people. Kahoora's boldness. Animals left. Two New Zealand youths taken on board, to accom- pany Omai. Mutual hostilities of the New Zcalanders. Enormous lizards in the country. A ship said to have touch- ed at it a few years before the Endeavour. |.^ J \9 On friday, July 12th, Captain Cook stood out of Plymouth Sound, and sailed down the Channel, quitting the British shoi^j for the last time. The Discovery did not sail till the 1st of August, Capt. Clerke having been unavoidably detained in Lon- don. Scarcely had the Resolution put to sea, when our navigator began to smoke the ship between decks with gunpowder, and employ other means for preventing disease, and securing the health o his crew. The process of fumigating, airing, an( drying, was frequently repeated during the voy- age ; and the happy result was, that when the ves- sel got into the tropical regions, where frequent rains and sultry' weather often produce the worst effects, the Captain had fewer sick than in either of his former voyages. tl "! TENERIFrE. 307 eneriffe— Port Praya joins the Resolution by Marion. Kergue- ran Diemen's Land. their manners, and d. Intercourse with ahoora, the murderer avenge the massacre s boldness. Animals 1 on board, to accom- he New Zealanders. p said to have touch- jour. _ ook stood out of 3wn the Channel, he last time. The t of August, Capt. r detained in Lon- ution put to sea, ke the ship between iploy other means iring the health of [gating, airing, and id during the voy- that when the ves- ns, where frequent produce the worst sick than in either Not having sufficient provender for the cattle on board, for the^ " whole voyage to the Cape, the Captain, on tliursday, August 1st, anchored in Santa Cruz road at Tenerift'e, to procure supplies ; conceiving this to be a better place for refreshments than Madeira.* Several ships of different nations were found riding at the same place of anchorage. The Governor received Capt. Cook and his people with great politeness, and they not only procured food for their cattle, but ample supplies of fruit, live stock, and other refreshments for themselves. In making his astronomical observations here, our navigator had some friendly communications with the Chevalier de Borda, Commander of the French frigate La Boussole, and Mr. Varila, a Spanish gentleman, who were also making observations, for ascertaining the ''ate of their chronometers. Our voyagers examined the city of Laguna, as well as Santa Cruz ; and some of them, particularly Mr. Anderson, made short excursions into the country, to get acquainted with its scenery and productions. Their attention was especially directed to the celebrated Peak of Teneriffe ; to the Canary birds, abounding in the island ; to the tea shrub, said to correspond with that of China; and to the im- pregnated lemon, which consists of a perfect and • Forster, in his Preface, alleges that " Capt. Cook in the Endeavour, battered the Loo-fort at Madeira, in conjunction with an English fr^ate, thus resenting an affront which had lieen offered to the British flag." This statement, which was ^tly denied by those who accompanied Cook in his first voy- Xe, does not receive the slightest countenance from the M.S. urnal of Sir Joseph Banks, which, through the kindness of db Earl of Mulgrave, I have had access to consult. The only SWcry opened by the British was that of an electrifying ma- ine, which gave the Governor a good shock, when he war gfatifying his curiosity in examining it. Had a British frigate Men there, it would aurely have been named in the Journals. 308 COOK S THIRD VOYAGK. / ' ! i I distinct lemon, inclosed within another. The climate of Teneriffe was found to be peculiarly temperate and healthful. Omai in his remarks on the Spanish inhabitants, observed, that they seemed less friendly than the English ; and that, in their persons, they were more like his countrymen. From this island, Capt. Cook set sail, on the 4th of August; and in passing Bonavista on the 10th, the ship was so close to some sunken rocks, that she but just weathered the breakers. In the alarm occasioned by this danger, the Captain, with his usual coolness, forbore to sound ; justly consider- ing, that this might have heightened the danger, but could not possibly lessen it. In passing the Cape de Verde Islands, he took occasion to correct an assertion of Mr. Nichelson, respecting the variation of the compass here; which, if trusted to, might prove fatal to the mariner. He looked into Port Praya, in St. Jago, on the 13th; but finding that the Discovery was not there, and having no occasion for further refreshments, he proceeded on his voyage. The heavy and frequent rains that fell soon after, enabled him to fill most of his empty casks with water. On the 1st of September, he crossed the line ; and on the 8th, when he was not far from Cape St. Augustine, on the coast of -^*>razil, he made some observations for ascertaining its longitude, which he found to be 35^°, or at the most 36° W. On friday, October 18th, the Resolution cast anchor in Table Bay. Baron Plettenberg, who was still Governor at the Cape, received our voy- agers with the same politeness as before. Tents were erected on sliore, the observatory set up, and refreshments procured in abundance. On the 31st, w other. The be [)eculiarly lis remarks on it they seemed that, in their itrymen. ail, on the 4th a on the lOth, en rocks, that In the alarm tain, with his istly consider- id tlie danger, n passing the sion to correct jspecting the , if trusted to, le looked into I ; but finding nd having no proceeded on 3nt rains that most of his of September, , when he was n the coast of r ascertaining 51°, or at the esolution cast ttenberg, who ivcd our voy- lefbre. Tents ry set up, and On the 31st, (API: or ciooi) iion:. :3or) a dreadful storm came on, wliich lasted three days, and did considerable damage to the tents and observatory : the Resolution was the only ship in * the bay that rode out the gale without dragging her anchors. It was not till tlie lOth of November, that the Discovery arrived, the severe gale having blown her off tlie coast. A marine had been lost overboard ; but the rest of the crew were well. Capt. Cook sent home by the Hampshire India- man, an invalid belonging to the Resolution ; and he afterwards regretted that he did not send two or three more, who were unhealthy. Immediate at- tention was paid to the refitting of the Discovery. While the vessels were preparing for sea, a ; disaster happened to the slieep, which, with the ; other cattle, had been brought on shore to graze : {} some dogs broke into the slieep j)en by night, close A to the tents, killed four sheep out of sixteen, and dispersed the rest. To recover the lost sheej), Capt. Cook found it necessary to employ some worthless fellows, " who would, for a ducatoon, cut their master's throat, and burn the house over his head." Two fine ewes were never recovered, and one ram was found seriously injured ; for which, Mr. Hemmy, the Lieut. Governor, offered to give i a Spanish ram. The Captain regretted that he i did not take it, as the Cape rams which he bought were of an inferior description. He added here many other articles to his live stock for the S. Sea Islands, including two horses and two mares. Some time was spent in caulking and refitting I the Discovery : the Resolution was partly caulked during the voyage, as far as could be done with safety to the carpenters. During this delay, our navigator was busy in making nautical observa- w I iff i , 310 COOK S TIIIR/) VOVAUi; tions, and recording his notices of the tides, car- rents, and variation of the compass ; correcting, as he carefully did, the errors of former navigators. Mr. Anderson also improved this leisure time, in making short excursions into the country, to ex- amine its rocks, soils, and natural productions. His valuable remarks on these subjects, were super- seded by a more ample account of this colony published by Dr. Sparrman. Before leaving the Cape, our navigators, not knowing where they could again meet with sup- plies, took on board such a stock of provisions as was sufficient, with what they had already, to serve them for more than two years. And now, having got their live stock and every thing else on board, both vessels weighed anchor, on Saturday, Nov. 30th ; but did not get clear of the land till tuesday, Dec. 3rd. When they were setting sail. Captain Cook gave Capt. Clerke a copy of his instructions, and directed him how to proceed in case of sepa- ration. After eyperiencing some rough weather, which carried away the mizen top-mast of the Resolution, and proved fatal to some of the goats and sheep, our navigators, on thursday, Dec. 12th, fell in with two islands, discovered by Marion and Crozet, in 1772. The largest, about 15 leagues in circuit, was found to be in 46° 53' S. lat., 37° 46' E. long. ; the smallest, which is the most northerly, is about 9 leagues in circuit, and is in 46° 40' S. lat., 38° 8' E. long. The ships passed between them ; and it was observed, that both islands are rocky, barren, and uninviting, the summits and sides of the mountains being covered with snow, while neither tree nor shrub could bo seen on the plains. "W i;. the tides, cur- ; correcting', as iner navigators, leisure time, in country, to ex- oductions. His ts, were super- of this colony- navigators, not meet with sup- of provisions as ilready, to serve id now, having else on board, Saturday, Nov. md till tuesday, ^ sail. Captain fiis instructions, n case of sepa- weather, which the Resolution, )ats and sheep, 2th, fell in with and Crozet, in ^ues in circuit, at., 37° 46' E. ost northerly, is 46° 40' S. lat, between them ; mds are rocky, ts and sides of ;h snow, while n on the plains. KERGUELEN S LAND. 311 f. Tliese Capt. Cook named Prince Edward's Islands; and other four, lying farther east, he called Mari- on's and Crozet's Islands, after the names of their discoverers. From thence he proceeded in search of Kergue- len's Land, and on the 24th, when a thick fog cleared away, he fell in with the small isles at its N.W. extremity, and soon after saw the main land. One of the isles, a high rbund rock, he named Bligh's Cap; and from a very imperfect notice of it obtained at Teneriffe, he rightly judged it to be Kerguelen's Isle of Rendezvous. In ex- ploring this country, he laboured under the dis- advantage of not knowing that Kerguelen had paid a second visit to this land, in 1773, and having only the chart of his discoveries in 1772. Hence he was led into some mistakes, in applying the names of places in Kerguelen's first chart, to spots which were not discovered till the voyage of 1773. Thus he supposed Cape Francois, the most north- erly point of the main land, to be Kerguelen's Cape Louis. From Cape Francois, our navigator traced the coast toward the south-east ; and being directed by his instructions to look out for a good harbour on this coast, he found one immediately beyond the Cape, which being entered on the 25th, was named Christmas Harbour. It abounded with streams of fresh water, and with penguins and other birds; but not a tree nor shrub was seen. Some seals were met with, which were so tame, that our mariners killed as many as they chose : a proof that these creatures were strangers to the visits of man. Yet our people were not the first visitors here : for, on friday, the 27th, which was allowed the men as a day of rest, to keep Christ- ** mrt n i. 312 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. ■ I ;: VI' iiKis, after the labours of watering, and cutting grass, one of them found a (|uai1. bottle, fastened with some wire to a j)rojectinf^ rock on the north side of the harbour ; and in this bottle was a piece of parchment, with the followinjic inscription :— Ludorico XV GaUiarum nujv, et (1. [domino] de lioijuea reyi a Secretin nd res waritimns annis 1772 et 1773. For this inscription. Captain Cook was at a loss to account, not knowing that Kerguelen had been here in 1773, and that his people had left the bot- tle and inscription in this harbour, which they named Bale de /' Oisean. Our navigator wrote on the other side of the parchment ; Naves Resohifion et Discovery de Rege Magnce Britannia', Decembris 1776. He then put it again into the bottle, with a silver twopence of 1772, and giving the bottle a leaden cap, placed it in a pile of stones, which he erected near where it was found. The south point of the harbour teraiinated in a high perforated rock. Few fish were found here, so that birds were al- most the only fresh provisions to be had. On the 29th, the ships sailed out of Christmas Harbour, and proceeded along the coast in a S.E direction. Several capes and bays were discovered and named; the land was found to be much in- dented, and towards evening, the ships, after making their way among dangerous shoals and "W KERGLELEN S LAND. 313 and cutting (ttle, fastened on the north le was a piece I'iption : — I incs as at a loss to len had been d left the bot- •, which they •ator wrote on ;, with a silver ►ottle a leaden lich he erected h point of the jrforated rock, birds were al- had. t of Christmas :oast in a S.E vere discovered 3 be much in- e ships, after us shoals and rocks, anchored in a large liarbour, whidi was call- ed Port Palliser, in lat. 49° 3' 8., long. (59° 37' E. The country liere was, if possible, more barren and desolate than at Christmas Harbour. From hence our navi}2^ators proceeded, on mon- day the 30th, to the most easterly point of Ker- guelen's Land, wliich was named Cape Digby. In an intervening- bay of great extent, an immense quantity of the large sea-weed called fucus-git/an- tcus was observed : some of the plants were judged to be above (50 fathoms long. Beyond Cape Digby, several other points of land were seen towards the south-west ; the most distant of which was named Cape George. Towards this cape Cap- tain Cook steered, to examine the direction of the coast beyond it ; but contrary winds obliged him to desist. He was sure, however, that the land could not extend much further to the south, as the track of Capt. Furneaux, in 1773, was within 17 leagues of that cape, and yet he saw no land, although the atmosphere was clear. Kerguelen's Land was tlius found to be an island of no great extent ; occupying about a degree and a quarter of latitude, and less than two degrees and a half of longitude. Captain Cook would have named it the Island of Desolation, had he not been averse to rob Kerguelen of the honour of its bearing his name. Mr. Anderson paid due attention to the natural productions of the country Its plants are few in number, not exceeding 16 ^r 18 species. A small plant, like a saxifrage, abounded on the sides of the hills, and gave them the appearance of a rich verdure. Two or three kinds of plants were eaten as sallad. No quadruped was seen but the ursine seal. The birds, however, were numerous ; con- r >-^^> M l^i,«.i,')r ir .« - i i l«< fg -l. ■I I*;; 314 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. ,m 1 !„ . n U... n sisting chiefly of penguins, i)etrels, albatrosses, ducks, shags, and gulls. Besides several small petrels, there were numbers of the largest petrel, the size of an albatross, called by the seamen Mother Carey's (xoose. These and the penguins were so tame as to be taken with the hand. From Kerguelen's liand, our navigators steered to the eastward for New Zealand. In the begin- ing of January, 1777, the weather became very hazy, yet by the frequent firing of signal guns, the vessels kept together. On the 19th, in a sudden squall of wind, the fore-top-mast of the Resolu- tion went by the board, and carried the main-top- gallant-mast with it. This occasioned some delay, as a whole day was spent in repairi he damage. On friday, the 24th, Van Dien I^and was discovered, near South West Cape ; and passing South Cape and Tasman's Head, the ships an- chored in Adventure Bay, on the 26th. Here our navigators landed, to procure wood and water, and obtain some grass for the cattle. The number of these had diminished, several of them having died at Kerguelen's Land. The grass here was coarse, aa well as scarce ; but wood and water were plentiful, and many excellent fish were caught by the seine. On tuesday, the 28th, when a party were cut- ting some spars, eight native men and a boy came to the spot, in a most friendly way ; shewing no signs of fear, and having no weapons, except that one man carried a short pointed stick. They wore neither clothes nor ornaments; but their bodies were marked with tattooed lines, and their hair and faces generally smeared with red ointment. Their skin was black, and their hair woolly ; but their features were not disagreeable. They seemed VAN DFEiMEN S LAND, 315 Is, albatrosses, several small largest petrel, y the seamen the penguins e hand. igators steered In the begin- r became very ignal guns, the in a sudden of the Resolu- the main-top- e'^ some delay, he damage. Iught pretty, e gentlemen mproper ad- liberal pre- l with great 2: what pass- ren to retire. >f Europeans ue of female akening the the party to gratification it is grossly oming those F M, The country at Adventure Bay is generally flat, and abounds with tall straight forest trees, fit for making spars, oars, and perhaps masts. A kind of opossum was the only quadruped seen ; but the kangaroo also lives in the woods. Birds are scarce and shy. The inhabitants are mild and cheerful, but possess little activity or genius. They live in very rude bark huts ; and many of them, like the fauns and satyrs of ancient fable, reside in hollow trees. The trunks are hollowed out by fire to the height of six or seven feet; in the middle were hearths made of clay, for the fire ; and in some of these dwellings there was room for four or five persons to sit around it. The people were obvious- ly of the same race as those of the northern parts of New Holland. Capt. Cook, as usual, carefully surveyed the coast, and made nautical observations to ascertain its position. The only material error which he discovered in Capt. Furneaux's sketch, was in the situation of Maria's Islands. Had the weather been fine on his quitting Xnn Diemen's Land, he might also have corrected another mistake of Capt. Furneaux aftd of former navigators, by discovering that this country is separated from New Holland by a considerable strait. But a fierce storm com- ing on, just as the vessels left Adventure Bay, they made the best of their way to New Zealand. It was not till 1797, that the existence of Bass's Strait, was observed by a Surgeon of that name, in an open boat: and Capt. Flinders, with that gentleman, first sailed through it in 1798. Capt. Flinders had also the honour of being the first to circumnavigate New Holland, m 1802, and 1803. The storm that arose when our navigators left !si^BaBBmmmwM mmmmmmmmmm^ 318 COOK S THIRD VOYAGF . Adventure Bay, commenced with a singular cliange of temperature, the thermometer rising almost instantaneously, from 70° to near 90° ; but this heat was of so short duration, that it seemed to be wafted away before the br»^eze that brought it. Oxi the voyage to New Zealand, another marine be- longing to the Discovery fell overboard, and was lost. It was on Wednesday, Feb. 12th, that the two vessels anchored in Ship Cove, and immediately began to land their empty caskF:, and to set up their observatories and tents. Many of the natives came alongside in canoes, some of whom were well known to Capt. Cook ; but none would ven- ture on board ; for seeing Omai, who was in the Adventure, when Mr. Rowe and his messmates were massacred and eaten, the natives were aware that Capt. Cook knew all that had happened, and were afraid that he was come to revenge the death of his countrymen. The Captain, however, re- peatedly assured them of the continuance of his friendship; and in a short time they laid aside their fear and distrust. Yet the recollection of that horrible event, and of the tragical end of Capt. Marion du Fresne and some of his men, made our people act with unusual caution, when- ever a party went for wood, or water, or grass. The natives were so far encouraged by the kindness shewn them, that instead of keeping at a distance, sev'-al families, from different parts of the coast, came to take up their residence near the ships. Capt. Cook witnessed the facility with which they construct a village. Part of the ma- terials were brought in their canoes, and the rest found on the spot. The men upon reaching the gular change ising almost 0° ; but this seemed to be ought it. Oil r marine be- ard, and was that the two immediately ad to set up of the natives ' whom were le would ven- 10 was in the lis messmates es were aware appened, and nge the death however, re- luance of his ey laid aside ecoUection of igical end of of his men, aution, when- or grass, ■aged by the keeping at a rent parts of lence near the facility with ,rt of the ma- i, and the rest 1 reaching the NEW ZEALAND. :319 place fixed on, began to tear up the plants and shrubs, and stick up the frame work of their huts ; taking care to set up their weapons against a tree, where they could seize them at a moment's notice. While the men were raising the huts, the women had charge of the canoes, provisions, and utensils ; and some of them gathered sticks, to make a fire for dressing their victuals. Above twenty huts were erected in less than an hour. In the mean time, the ehildren, and some aged people, were kept employed by the Captain, in scrambling for beads, so long as he had any left in his pocket. When more than one tribe or fa,mily occupied a village, their districts were kept separate by low pallisades, or other modes of division. Our people derived considerable advantage from having the natives near them, particularly in sec: ring a constant supply of fish on easy terms ; and having also abundance of celery, scurvy-nrass, portable soup, and spruce-bef- brewed on the spot, there was no want of refri.ninents. There was not, however, any sickness t(; remove ; for there were but two invalids in the Resolution, and none in the Discovery. The natives who visited the British from a dis- tance, as well as those who took up their abode beside them, not only brought fish and curiosities for sale, but sought to expose their females ibr gain. This disgraceful trade, however, did not now succeed : the Captain was glad to find, that the men had taken a dislike to New Zealand fe- males. This illicit commerce, he remarks, was never encouraged by him, though he sometimes could not restrain it. Some have considered such intercourse as promoting tiieir security among ,.l ' ,■_>? 320 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. «t savages ; but he always dreaded its consequences, being sure that it betrays more men than it saves. Among their occasional isitors was the chief Kalioora, who headed the party that killed the Adventure's people, and had himself slain Mr. Kowe. Some of his own people requested that he might be killed, stating that he was a very bad man : but the people of one tribe had often desired the Captain to destroy those of another. On the Kith of February, the two Captains, and several of the officers, with Omai, visited the spot in Grass Cove, where the massacre occurred. The place and circumstances were pointed out by some of the natives, particularly their old friend Pedero, or Pedro, who met them here, and whose real name was found to be Matahouah. Kahoora repeatedly visited the ship, and although Omai often desired that he might be killed, stating that by the laws of England a murderer must be hanged, he still persisted in visiting the Captain ; confiding in tlie declaration of the latter, that if the New Zealand- ers conducted themselves well in future, he would not revenge, at so great a distance of time, their inhuman treatment of his countrymen. Kahoora was one day greatly frightened, when he was questioned why he had killed Capt. Furneaux's people : but when he was assured of safety, he informed the Captain, that one of them had taken a stone hatchet, and would neither return it, nor give any thing for it ; upon which, the owner snatched up some bread as an equivalent; and then the quarrel began. He also stated, that he himself narrowly escaped being shot, by skulkinj;- behind the boat, while a man who stood close by him was shot dead. He then attacked Mr. Rowe, r consequences, than it saves, was the chief ihat killed the iself slain Mr. quested that he ,vas a very bad Ld often desired lother. On the ;, and several of 3 spot in Grass ed. The place )ut by some of riend Pedero, or /hose real name tioora repeatedly lai often desired that by the laws hanged, he still confiding in the e New Zealand- future, he would ice of time, their ymen. Kahoora when he was J apt. Furneaux's ed of safety, he ■ them had taken ler return it, nor hich, the owner equivalent; and 3o stated, that he shot, by skulkini; ho stood close by acked Mr. Rowe, NEW ZEALAND. 321 who defended himself with his hanger, and wounded Kahoora, but was presently overpowered by numbers. All parties concurred in asserting, that the shots fired by Lieut. Burney and his party did not take eftect on a single individual. Ka- hoora put such confidence in the word of Capt. Cook, that on seeing a portrait of ore of his coun- trymen hanging in the cabin, he desired to have his own portrait taken also, and sat without the least uneasiness till Mr. Webber had drawn it. It was observed that, although no jains had been taken by the natives to cultivate the gardens planted in the former voyages, so that they were over-run with weeds; yet there were potatoes, cabbages, onions, leeks, purslain, &c. found grow- ing. Most of the animals left in the former voy- age appeared to have been killed ; but the poultry had been preserved, and had multiplied. The Captain had almost resolved to leave no more cattle, finding no powerful chief to take care of them. Tiratou was absent ; and Tringoboohee had been killed, with 70 of his people, about five months before this. But Matahouah, and a chief named Tomatongeauooranuc, having begged some goats and hogs, the Captain gave the former two goats, a male, and a female with kid ; and the lat- ter two pigs, a boar and a sow ; under a promise that they should not be killed. Above two thirds of the inhabitants of the Sound had by this time settled near the ships. ,When our men were melting seal blubber, they iprere so fond of the train oil, as to relish the very j^immings of the kettle, and dregs of the casks. < Omai had expressed a wish to take a New Zea- lander with him to his own country ; and a youth 22 .JUiMM 9qmB 322 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. of 17 or 18 years of age, named Taweiharooa, offered to accoiiipany him, and took up his resi- dence en board. He was the only son of a de- ceased chief, and it was supposed that his mother would not part with him; but when the ships were about to sail, she took an affectionate leave of him, and then parted from him, seemingly un- concerned. A lad who was to have attended him as a servant, was taken ashore by his friends ; but another boy, named Kokoa, about nine or ten years old, was brought next day to supply his place. The father of the boy gave him up witli much indifference. It was found that the New Zealanders live under perpetual apprehensions of being destroyed by each other ; every tribe or family being on the watch to revenge the wrongs sustained from any other tribe, maintaining a kind of hereditary en- mity, the father bequeathing to his son the task of taking vengeance on his behalf. As they roast and eat their enemies, the prospect of a good meal is often a stimulus to deeds of blood. In Mr. Anderson's journal are many interest- ing notices, concerning the soil, and productions of New Zealand, and the customs, .characters, employments, manufactures, and language of the inhabitants. The two youths taken on board, informed Capt. Cook, that their country contains snakes and lizards of an enormous size ; the latter being 8 feet long, and as thick as a man's body. They also stated, that a foreign vessel had put into a port on the N.W. coast of Teerawitte, a few years before the Endeavour, which they called Tupia's vessel, arrived in the Sound. Taweiharoon, ; up his resi- soii of a cle- at his mother len the ships ctionate leave seemingly un- attended him 3 friends ; but nine or ten to supply his him up with ders live under destroyed by being on the ined from any hereditary en- son the task of As they roast of a good meal 1. many interest- nd productions ms, .characters, mguage of the ken on board, auntry contains size ; the latter , a man's body, sel had put into erawitte, a few ch they called s ^^1 Tfl: .V CHAPTER XIX. Departure from New Zealand. Feelings of the two New Zealand youths. Mangeea discovered : notices of the island and its inhabitants. Discovery of Wateeoo ; landing there ; beliaviour of the natives, who sought to detain the party on shore. Omai's policy. He meets three of his countrymen, driven hither by a storm some years before. Supplies got at Wenooa-ette. Hervey Island visltid; notices of the inhabitants. Palmerston Island; supplies got. Komango ; trade with the natives. Arrival at Arnamooka. Kindness of the natives. The chiefs Toobou a.id Taipa. Feenou, a great chief, introduced as King of the Friendly Isles. Great authority of the chiefs, and abject state of the lower orders. Singular method adopted far suppressing theft. Visit paid to the Hapaee Isles by Faenou's desire. Friendly reception there; public festivities;, single combats; liberal presents exchanged. Marines ex(Tcised. Night exhibitions. Intended treachery, as stated by Mariner. Areekee met with. Visit of Poulaho, the real King of the Friendly Isles. Landing at Kotoo. Return to Aiinamooka. Feenou's true rank. Ke- moval to Tongataboo. Meeting with Attago. Having got every thing on board, the vessels sailed from Ship Cove, on tuesday, February 25th, and having passed through Cook's Strait, proceeded on their voyage in a S.E. direction. Scarcely were they out of sight of land, when the two New Zealand youths, who were affected with sea sick- ness, began, in a plaintive song, to lament their home and their kindred, to which they had bid a lasting adieu. Their fits of wailing were frequently renewed for a number of days, notwithstanding all the means employed to sooth and comfort them ; but their sorrows gradually subsided, and at length ^ ^._4J'.1.!IH 324 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. r i! ■J. i '\\\ ji. ] iJ lliey became reconciled to their lot, and attached to their new friends. On the 29th of March, our navigators discovered an island, which was found to be called Mangeea. Next day, various attempts were made to land ; but the island, which was fertile and well inhabit- ed, being surrounded by a coral reef, no good anchorage was found, nor any convenient landing place perceived. A native called Mourooa, who was understood to be the King's brother, came oft" in a canoe, with another man ; and encouraged by Omai, who spoke to them in the Tahitian language, ventured alongside, and received some beads and nails. Captain Cook putting off in a boat for the shore, with another boat from the Discovery, the islander stepped into his boat, and approached the land with him, where many natives, armed with long spears and clubs, were collected. Some of them swam off to the boats, and came on board them without any reserve ; nay, it was difficult to keep them out, and to prevent them from pilfering. But when the boats returned towards the ships, no landing place being found, all the natives retired, except Mourooa, who accompanied Capt. Cook on board. He expressed less surprise at seeing the cattle and other strange ol)jects in the ship, than might have been expected : which perhaps arose from his uneasiness about his personal safety. Yet as he stumbled over a goat, in coming out of the cabin, he asked Omai, what bird it was ! A boat was sent to convey him near the surf, when he leaped into the sea, and swam ashore. Here his countrymen were seen crowding around him, to learn the wonders he had seen on board. When the boat had returned, our voyagers made if.,;i M ATEK<»0. 320 and attached ;ors discovered lied Mangeea. nade to land ; 1 well inhabit- reef, no good enient landing Mourooa, who )ther, came oft" encouraged by itian language, )me beads and a boat for the Discovery, the ipproached the js, armed with j ;ted. Some of 1 jame on board i was difficult to from pilfering. Is the ships, no natives retired, Capt. Cook on at seeing the | the ship, than I perhaps arose I al safety. Yet | ing out of the | it was ! A boat ^ surf, when he ore. Here his round him, to aard. voyagers made sail to the northward, leaving this fine island un- examined. It is situated in lat. 21° 57' 8., long. 201° 53' E;* and is full five leagues in circuit, rising into hills in the interior. The inhabitants resemble the Tahitians and Marquesans, being a stout, well made race. The men had no clothing on their body but a belt and wrapper; most of them wore a kind of turban of white cloih on their head, and sandals on their feet. They salute, like the New Zealanders, by touching noses, in addi- tion to which, they take the hand of the stranger, and rub it upon the nose and mouth. Their island produces plantains, bread-fruit, and taro ; but they have neither hogs nor dogs. In the afternoon of the 30th, our navigators left Mangeea, and next day they came in sight of ano- ther island, about the same extent, which was found to bear the name Wateeoo, situated in 20° r S. lat, 201° 45' E. long. Here, also, neither anchorage nor a good landing place could be found. On Wednesday, April 2nd, three canoes came alongside the Resolution, each containing one man; and the men, with a little persuasion, ventured on board, after an exchange of presents. These having departed, another man came in a canoe with a bunch of plantains, as a present from the principal chief of the island to Captain Cook, whom he asked for by name ; having learned his name from Omai, whom he met in a boat with Lieut. Gore. The Captain gave him in return an axe, and a piece of red cloth, with which he pad- dled back well satisfied. A double canoe next vl •In this voyage, the longitude beyond 180° is not reckoned WATEEOO. .021) e amusements uint Ciore unci duced succes- of whom IVIr. nformed them actini; as hin he must wait )e supplif/l lonvenience to t. They were were eager to persona so new ;d to separate iter round him, opportunity of I closely. Not ^ly, the -.nt? '3s ockets, or from I a small bayo- nai lost a dag- 3f these thefts, , but no redress :o get away to I ; so that they be detained all he saw a hole and was ap- to be roasted he saw a pig g put into the hostility was Mr. Anderson on was brought the heat occa- lelf fanned him. 1, -s. When the natives saw tlieir visitors uneasy, they renewed the tokens of peace, sticking green boughs before tlicm, whicli they were desired to take hold of: and when tliey were urgent to get their busi- ness despatched, the chief sent some people to bring a i^vf i)lantain trees for the cattle ; but inti- mated that the gentlemen behoved to stay and partake of the repast prepared for them. Accord- ingly, the multitude making a large ring, the four strangers were seated by the second chief, Taroa, and entertained with cocoa-nuts, baked plantains, and i)ortions of the baked hog. Omai was further treated with a drink of ava, prepared in the mode used in his own country. After this, the party were put on board their boats, by means of canoes, with some cocoa-nuts, some plantain trees, and other provisions brought to them. They were glad to get safe on board, about sun-set, after being so many hours in the midst of a crowd, consisting of not less than 2000 people. The Captain was very anxious for their arrival, and had brought the ships as near the shore as was prudent, with a view to their protection ; although the occasional visits of the natives, during the day, served to convince him, that nothing hostile was intended. The party seem to have, in some degree, owed their safe return to the ships, to the ingenuity of Omai, and his strong assertions of the power of the British, and the force of their fire-arais. His statements, indeed, were much exaggerated; for he told the natives, that some of the British ships were as large as their island, and had guns that could crush their whole country at one shot ; that even the guns now on board the two ships, could easily destroy the island, and kill every soul in it ; ■MiPvaHii 330 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. ^ ■( '■! ii and that, if the party were not sent safely on board that day, Captain Cook would begin to destroy them. The nearer approach of the ships to the land, in the afternoon, confirmed Omai's words ; but he took a more striking method of proving his assertions; for, when the chiefs ordered the multitude to form a ring, Omai having a few cartridges in his pocket, scattered some gunpowder in the centre, and taking a piece of burning wood from the oven where the pig was roasting, set fire to the powder; when the violent explosion, with the flame and smoke, filled the whole assembly with astonishment, and made them believe every thing he had told them. Another remarkable circumstance occurred to Omai on this occasion : he had scarcely set his foot on shore, when he recognised among the multitude three of his own countrymen ; Orououte, a native of Matavai in Otaheite ; Otirreroa, born at Ulietea ; and Tavee, a native of Huaheine. These men, with about 17 other persons, of uotli sexes, had, above twelve years before, embarked in a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over to Ulietea ; but a furious storm arising, drove them off the coast, and they were carried, they knew not whither, for many days, during which, having no provisions, all of them died of hunger and thirst, except four men, whom Providence brought in a very exhausted state, to this island, where one man had since died. The amazement of Omai, at meeting his country- men in an island about 200 leagues from their native home; and their surprise at seeing him along with a people whose persons and whose ships were now gazed at as the greatest wonders ever known at Wateeoo, may be better imagined than M'ENOOA-ETTE. 331 safely on I begin to f the ships led Omai's method of iefs ordered ving a few gunpowder rning wood ing, set fire losion, with :e assembly elieve every occurred to ;ely set his among the ; Orououte, roa, born at ine. These ijoth sexes, arked in a letea ; but a e coast, and ir, for many sions, all of )t four men, exhausted i since died, lis country- s from their seeing him whose ships onders ever agined than described. It seemed like one of the marvellous rencounters of fable, rather than an adventure of real life. Omai immediately obtained for his coun- trymen the ofier of a j)assage to their native isles ; but the kind treatment which tliey had received here, and the fresh connexions which they had formed, made them decline the offer. Tlie almost miraculous transplantation of these Tahitians affords an interesting illustration of the maimer in which the detached parts of the earth, particularly the islands of the South Sea, have been first peopled. There were females as well as males in the canoe which brought them hither ; and had they been driven on an uninhabited island, before the latter perished with hunger, that island would henceforth have been furnished with inhabitants. A fact like this, is better than a thousand speculative conjectures on the peopling of our globe. The people of Wateeoo were like those of Man- geea, having their persons tattooed, and decorated with ornaments, but wearing almost no clothes. Tlie females wore a kind of short petticoat. Their canoes were generally double ; and some of them were beautifully stained with black, in squares, triangles, and other figures ; excelling any thing of the kind which our navigators had yet seen. In the evening the ships left this island, and next morning arrived at a small uninhabited island, called Wenooa-ette, about three or four leagues noitli of Wateeoo. Here Lieut. Gore was sent on shore with two boats, and obtained about 100 cocoa nuts for each ship, and a quantity of grass, leaves, and young branches, for the cattle. The place was found to be occasionally inhabited, and ■' ' «K% » ii i >r « a 332 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. ' I II in one of the empty huts, a hatchet and some naik were left, as a compensation for the supplies taken away. From hence our navigator steered for Hervey's Island, discovered in his former voyage. He had supposed it to be uninhabited ; and was therefore surprised, in approachinj^ it on the 6th, to see six or seven double canoes, containing from three to six men in each, come off from the shore. For some time they kept at a distance ; but Omai per- suaded them to come alongside, yet no entreaties could induce any of them to venture on board. They were, however, remarkably daring in seizing whatever was within their reach, and struck one of the Discovery's men, who was preventing them from stealing the oars of a boat. They shewed, at the same time, a knowledge of barter, exchanging some fish for small nails, which they eagerly re- ceived, as they did also bits of paper, and other trifles, thrown to them. These people were more fierce and rugged in their aspect and disposition than those of Wateeoo, to which island they were subject ; having more resemblance to the New Zealunders, while they spoke a dialect that ap- proached more to the Tahitian. They wore ;l piece of narrow mat round the body ; but not one of them was tattooed. They inquired, like tho islanders last visited, the names of the ships, and their chief, the number of men on board, whence they came, and whither they were bound ; while, on their part, they very readily answered the ques- tions put to them ; and stated, among other things, that they had seen two great ships pass their island before ; which, doubtless^ were the Resolution and Adventure. n 3E. t and some nail.^ e supplies taken red for Hervey's oyage. He had ,nd was therefore he 6th, to see six ig from three to the shore. For ! ; but Omai per- yet no entreaties enture on board, daring in seizing , and struck one 1 preventing them They shewed, at larter, exchanging I they eagerly re- paper, and other people were more :t and disposition 1 island they were mce to the New dialect that ap- n. They wore a )ody ; but not one nquired, like the of the ships, and on board, whence 3re bound; while, inswered the ques- mong other things, is pass their island he Resolution and TALMERSTON ISLAND. 333 When Lieut. King was s^nt with two boats to search for a landing place, the natives hastened to the shore; and there a crowd of people, armed with clubs and long pikes, seemed ready to oppose his landing ; although some threw cocoa nuts to the seamen, and invited them to land. Their dis- positi.)ns were not put to the test, for no landing- place could be found. Being thus repeatedly disappointed in seeking grass, water, and other su})plies, while unfavour- able winds retarded his progress. Captain Cook found, that it would be impossible to do any thing this season in the high latitudes of the northern hemisphere, from wliich he was still at a great .distance. His first care now was to save the cattle, land husband the stores and provisions of the ships ; and he bore away for the Friendly Islands, to pro- cure supplies: but the winds failing him, he made for Palmerston Island, which was nearer ; and the water being much reduced, he procured 16 gallons by the still ; but soon after got a much larger sup- ply, collected during heavy showers of rain. . On monday, April 1 4th, the ships arrived at Palmerston Island ; and on some of the islets of which it is composed, large supplies of food for the cattle were obtained, consisting of scurvy-grass, palm-cabbage, young cocoa-nut trees, and the tender branches of the wharra tree. About 1200 cocv>a-nuts were also collected for the use of the ;«crew, among whom they were equally divided. iTropic birds, boobies, and other fowls, were taken :|in abundance, for the people of both ships; and {quantities of fine fish were caught, chiefly by .Omai ; who was likewise very useful, in dressing .botli fish and birds in a Tahitian oven, which he mmim •SSS^j saatsteirr^^ 334 COOKS TinUl) VOYACiK. II, '( constructed and used with a dexterity and good humour which did him credit. Excellent shell-fish was also to be had in plenty : so that here both man and beast fared sumptuously. Palmerston Island is composed of nine or ten low islets, occupying the prominent points of a circular reef, inclosing a lagoon in the centre. Capt. Cook makes some judicious remarks on the continued growth of such islands, not only by the labours of madrepores, or the insects forming the coral, under water ; but by the accumulation of sand above the ordinary reach of the tide, the growth of plants, and the increase of vegetable mould resulting from their decay. He justly supposes, that this reef may eventually form one continuous island, and may even fill up the central lagoon. — In some parts were seen the most en- chanting submarine grottoes, formed with corals, branching in great luxuriance, and richly diversi- fied in their shapes and colours ; while the shells with which they were copiously bespangled, and the beautiful fishes that gently glided along their surface, added much to the grandeur of the scene. On thursday, the 17th, the ships proceeded to the westward, for Annamooka, and passing Savage Island in the night of the 24th, came in sight of the isles that lie east of Annamooka, on the 28th. On this voyage, some heavy showers furnished a copious supply of fresh water; and the Captain finding that more could be got in an hour by the rain, than could be procured by distillation in a month, laid aside the still, as a thing attended with more trouble than profit. It is oljservable, that although the frequent rains and intense heat be- tween the tropics, are often injurious to health. Ji ANNAMOOKA. 335 ,y and good 3nt shell-fish at here both nine or ten points of a t the centre, marks on the : only by the forming the imulation of the tide, the of vegetable He justly lly form one p the central the most en- with corals, ichly diversi- dle the shells jangled, and d along their of the scene, proceeded to issing Savage le in sight of on the 28th. ; furnished a the Captain 1 hour by the tillation in a ittended with ervable, that 3nse heat be- is to health, there was not a single person on board now sick, either from the constant use of salt food, or the change of climate. The ships having cast anchor near the small island Komango, some of the natives came oft' in canoes, and bartered cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, plan- tains, and sugar-canes, for nails. Next day, canoes came from different islands, bringing fruit, roots, pigeons and other fowls, together with two pigs ; for which they received hatchets, beads, and nails. Curiosities, such as clubs, bows, and musical reeds, were also brought for sale ; but Capt. Cook gave orders, that no curiosities should be purchased, till the ships should be well supplied with provisions ; and at the same time issued salutary regulations for conducting the trade with the natives. Lieut. King being sent to Komango for provisions, re- turned with seven hogs, some fowls, a quantity of fruit and roots, together with some grass for the cattle. He brought on board Tooboulangee, the chief of the island, and another chief named Taipa, who brought a hog as a present, and promised more next day ; a promise which they faithfully performed. It was observable, that the natives who traded on this and the following day, would hardly dispose of an article to any one but Ca[)t. Cook, in whose goodness and justice they placed the fullest confidence. After some time spent in seeking a better har- bour, the ships were brought to an anchor at An- namooka, on thursday. May 1st, in the same spot which the Resolution occupied, three years before, and in which Tasman anchored in 1643. Here both the Captains went on shore next day, with several of the oflficers ; the observatories were set 336 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. t rl iij), by'permission of the natives, wlio also allowed a boat-house to be used as a tent. Toobou, the chief of the island, conducted Captain Cook and Omai to his house, situated on a pleasant spot, in the centre of his plantation. A fine grass-jjlot surrounded it, where, as he intimated, those who went in might wipe their feet; and it certainly had a most cleanly appearance, the floor beinq; covered with mats, as neat and elegant as the car- pet of an English drawing-room. Taipa, who attached himselif firmly to the Captain, had a house brought on men's shoulders, a full quarter of a mile, and [placed close to the tent. Next day, he harangued the natives at some length ; instructing them how to behave to our people, and encourag- ing them to bring their produce to market ; and his eloquence had a happy effect in increasing the supplies of food. In the mean time, the crews- of both ships were busily employed : the horses and the weakly part of the cattle were taken on shore ; some were em- ployed in making hay for them; some in filling the water casks at a neighbouring pool, and others in cutting wood. The latter cut some faitanoo trees that yielded a milky juice, so corrosive as to blister their skin, and injure their eyes; but they found plenty of more suitable wood in another spot. On tuesday, May 6th, Feenou, a great chief from Tongataboo, visited the place, and was falsely represented by Taipa as King of all the Friendly Isles, who had come hither to see the British. The natives paid their obeisance to him, by bow- ing their heads as low as his feet, the soles of which they touched with each hand, first with the mm ANNAIMOOKA. 337 tlso allowed Coobou, the I Cook and iant spot, in e jrrass-plot , those who it certainly floor beinn; ^ it as the car- Taipa, who ,had a house quarter of a Next day, he ; instructing nd encourag- market; and increasing the 3th ships were e weakly part ome were em- ome in filling )ol, and others some faitanoo corrosive as to jyes ; but they od in another a great chief and was falsely 1 the Friendly ee the British. ) him, by bow- 3t, the soles of 1, first with the palm, and then with the back part. He sent a present of two fish on board, by one of his servants; and Capt. Cook landed to pay his respects to him. Finding that this was not the Areekee whom he formv^rly saw at Tongataboo, but a tall thin person, aljout thirty years old, with features of a European cast, the Captain asked if iie was the King ; and Taipa answered for him, enumerating 153 islands under his sway. He accompanied the Captain on board, with five or six attendants ; and having re- ceived kind entertainment and valuable presents, he sent three hogs on board in the evening. From this time he dined on board daily ; and Captain Cook was glad to have his company, as none but Taipa was allowed to sit at meat with him, or eat in his presence; whereas, before his arrival, the Captain's table overflowed with natives', both men and women ; the females here not being denied, as at Otaheite, the privilege of eating with the men. One day, his servants brought on board for him, a ' mess of fish soup prepared with cocoa-nut liquor ; a dish whicli the Captain also tasted, and found to be very palatable. The despotic power of the chiefs over the com- mon people, in the Friendly Isles, was often dis- played. An axe which had been stolen out of the Resolution on her arrival, was on the Captain's application to Feenou speedily recovered, his com- mand to that effect being implicitly obeyed. An inferior chief, while Feenou was on board, ordered the people away from the tent ; and some of them venturing to return, he beat them unmercifully with a large stick. One man was so cruelly abus- ed that he was carried off for dead, though he afterwards recovered ; and when the chief was told 23 338 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. ']♦: if K Jfi tliat he had killed him, instead of being sorry, he only laughed at it. In one instance only, a chief was caught pilfering; and Capt. Cook ordered him a dozen lashes, and made him pay a hog besides. After this, the chiefs never stole any thing them- selves, but employed their servants, or slaves, to steal for them ; and so little value did they put on the lives of the latter, that when any of them were caught in the act, instead of interceding for them, they often desired our people to kill them. The poor wretches were so inured to hard usage, that a flogging seemed to make no more impression on them, than it would have made on the main-mast. Captain Clerke hit upon a less cruel, but more eft'ective, plan for checking their depredations ; every culprit that was taken had his head com- pletely shaved by the barber, and was thus not only made an object of ridicule, but a marked man ; care being taken, that all who had received the tonsure should be kept at a distance. Finding that the supplies here began to be ex- hausted, Capt. Cook got every thing on board, with a view to proceed to Tongataboo ; but Fee- nou, apprized of his design, and perhaps dreading that his own pretensions to royalty would in that case be quickly at an end, strongly urged him to prefer the Hapaee isles, a group lying to the north- east; and our navigator yielded to his importunity. Some time was lost in recovering the Discovery's anchors, the cables having been cut by the coral rocks ; but at last, on Wednesday, May 14th, the ships left Annamooka. Between this island and Hapaee, the sea is sprinkled with a multitude of small isles ; and, to avoid the risk of passing through the midst of them. Captain Cook took a IIAPAEE. 339 ig sorvy, lie )nly, a chief ordered him aog besides, thing them- or slaves, to they put on )f them were Lng for them, . them. The usage, that a mpression on le main-mast, uel, but more depredations ; lis head com- thus not only marked man ; i received the • legan to be ex- ing on board, boo; but Fee- rhaps dreading would in that y urged him to ig to the north- jis importunity, the Discovery's It by the coral , May 14th, the this island and a multitude ot risk of passing in Cook took a N.W. course, in order to go round them. In the afternoon he passed Kotoo, the most westerly of the group ; and was then near the high islands Oghao, or Kao, and Amattafoa, or Toofoa, seen in liis former voyage : the smoke of the volcano on the latter was now distinctly observed, and when night came on, it was seen to emit flames. The natives regard it as the seat of some deity. The groups of islands passed in this voyage sometimes presented a most enchanting appear- ance, each being clothed with cocoa palms and other rich trees, like a lovely garden placed in the sea ; while the beauty of the whole, heightened by the serenity of the weather, seemed to realize the , idea of some fairy land. A few of the isles ap- peared to have but recently emerged from the sea ; ; one being seen altogether destitute of vegetation, ; and another that bore only a single tree. After passing Hafaiva, Footooha, and other isles known py name, our navigators, on Saturday, the 17th, anchored at the Hapaee group ; which was found to consist of four isles, Haanno, Foa, Lefooga, and Hoolaiva, connected by reefs. Feenou, who had accompanied his new friends on this voyage, sometimes on board the Resolution, and sometimes in his own canoe, procured them a welcome reception at Lefooga, where they first i^Janded. A large assembly was held on the shore ; gp'eenou, with Capt. Cook and Omai, sat in a house placed there on purpose, while the multitude sat a circle in front of them ; Taipa, by Feenou's |irection, harangued the people, on the subject of fading honestly with their visitors, and treating ifcem kindly; and Earoupa, chief of the island, did |he same. The Captain gave liberal presents to ■ : 1 340 COOK S THIRD VOYAOE. .|; I' I ii the cliiefs, and Feenou pretended to be displeased lit his f?ivint' the ships, such a plot from being I of opinion c for giving strongly as- [iga Islands, ;atements in the account deed, it sets very dedica- anks visited k. There is he plot, not rticularly in ient by day, f which en- yet as Maii- everal chiefs son of Fee- lat the same gainst other inds, and too e case of the >, which was xnd Lefooga, plot was con- uplicity with tters, we may ; although he r of the plot, len proposed by others. However fur thi; design was rarried, a gracious J*rovidencc prevented its execution. On Wednesday, the 21st, Caj)t. C'ook took a walk into the country, where he saw plantations larger, and better managed, than in Annamooka. Re- turning on board to dinner, he found a large canoe fast to the ship's stern, in which was no less a per- sonage than the grave and stupid Areekee, seen in the iormer voyage at Tongataboo, and known by the name Latooliboula, or as some write it, Latoo Libooloo. He maintained the same gravity and taciturnity as before, and could not be persuaded to go on board. Feenou was in the ship at the time, yet the two chiefs took no notice of each other. It is now known, that Latoo labooloo, who was weak in intellect, was not actually King, but obtained the title and honours of royalty on ac- count of his high birth, as the natives here pay great deference to distinctions of rank and blood. When our navigator was about to unmoor, on the 23rd, to proceed to Tongataboo, Feenou and Taipa came alongside in a canoe, stating that they were going to Vavaoo, to get further supplies for him, and begging him to wait their return. He immediately proposed to proceed thither with the ships, to examine Vavaoo, an object that was high- ly desirable, as the large and interesting cluster of islands so named, had not hitherto been explored by any European ; but Feenou not wishing, in this instance, to have the ships with him, dissuaded him from his purpose, by falsely affirming, that there was neither harbour nor anchorage there. After he was gone, the Hapaee people spread a false report, that a large ship had arrived at Anna- mooka, perhaps wishing to get rid of their visitors. MJ^ --'-" a44 <'o«(K s Tiiiiii) v<»VA{;i:. ■' a r J* -i'.i r * n '« M now that their j)r()visi()ns were much exhausted. On moiiday. May 2t)th, the ships were moved into a bay on tlie north side of Hoohiiva. Next day a sailing canoe arrived, on board of which was Poulaho, the real King of the Friendly Isles. On the Captain's invitation, he came on board the Hesolution, bringing with him two good ftit hogs ; thouuh not so fat as himself. His attendants ob- jected to his entering the cabin, lest any one should walk over his head ; but the objection was ol)viated l)y the Captain's giving orders, that no one, during his stay, should walk over the cabin. He examined every thing attentively, and put various questions to the Captain, with whom he sat down to dinner. After receiving some presents, with wliich he was well pleased, he went on sliore, accompanied by Captain Cook ; with whom he seated himself in a small house near the shore, while the natives sat in a semi-circle in front of the house. The various articles wliich his people had got by trading with the ships, were now produced ; the owners first squatting themselves down before him, and then depositing their purchases, and retiring. He was pleased with their bargains, and ordered every thing to be returned to them, except a glass bowl, whicli he reserved for himself. His attendants did obeisance by touching his feet, and great decorum was observed in his presence. He gave the Cap- tain some more hogs, and presented him with a cap, or bonnet, covered with red feathers ; an article so scarce and valuable, that none else obtained one here, except Capt. Clerke and Omai. The ships sailed on the 29th for Annamooka, accompanied by the King and other chiefs ; but the weather growing stormy o: the 31st, they ANNAIVIOOKA. 34.3 exhausted, vere moved liva. Next {' wliich was r Isles. Oil I board the od fat hogs ; tendants ob- Y one should was obviated 3 one, during- \ie examined )us (|uestions wn to dinner, wliich he was ompanied by I himself in a \\e natives sat The various f trading with owners first lim, and then •ing. He was ordered every t a glass bowl, attendants did great decorum gave the Cap- cd him with a hers ; an article ic obtained one i. n- Annamooka, lier chiefs ; but the 31st, they narrowly escaped being wrecked on a sandy isle between Footooha and Kotoo ; at whicli last, the King and his suite, vvlio were frightened at the danger incurred, were put on shore. C'lpt. Cook also landed to examine the isle ; which he found tolerably well culti^ .*ed, but thinly peopled. On thursday, the f>th oi June, the ships anchored at Annamooka. Next day, Feenou arrived from V^avaoo. He j)retended, that several canoes were 1, coming laden with hogs and other provisions, but I had been lost in the stormy weather ; a tale to % which Capt. Cook, who was now acquainted with I his character, gave no credit. Next day, Poulaho !) and hio attendants arrived, when Feenou was con- tent to take his station among the latter ; and when the King came on board to dine, Feenou could not sit at meat with him, but after making obeisance in the usual way, by saluting liis sovereign's foot with his head and hands, retired out of the cabin. Omai, who had attached himself to Feenou, and exchanged names with him, was much disappoint- ed when another King made his appearance, and at first refused tu acknowledge Poulaho ; but now he was fully satisfied as to the rank of his friend. Yet Feenou was a chief of high rank, and great powder, being the brother of Poulaho's Queen, and holding an important place under him. Captain Cook considered him as Commander in chief of I the forces, and head officer of police ; Veeson's I Narrative makes him chief of Eooa ; and Mariner calls him tributary chief of Hapaee ; which last is perhaps his most correct designation. We learn from the Missionary Transactions, Veeson's Nar- * rative, and Mariner's Account, that his family, not many yearsi after this, attained those royal honours 346 COOKS THIRD VOYAGl^. to which he now made pretensions. On the death of Poulaho, whose son Futtafaihe ( the family name) was left a minor, his widow took possession of the government ; but was speedily dispossessed by Toogahowe, a nephew of Feenou, who got his father Moomooe, Feenou's brother, appointed sov- ereign chief, or Dugonagaboola. When Moomooe died, April 29th, 1797, Toogahowe succeeded him; and Feenou died a few weeks after, his death being said to have been hastened by his disappointment, in not succeeding to the sovereignty himself. In April, 1799, his two sons, Feenou and Toobo Neu- ha, murdered their cousin, the Dugonagaboola; and after a series of bloody wars and horrid crimes, this second Feenou secured to himself the sovereign power, over the Hapaee and Vavaoo isles; while Tongataboo, no longer the chief seat of govern- ment, was desolated by his frequent invasions, and its own internal wars. At his death, in 1810, he was succeeded by his son, another Feenou, whom Mariner considered as a prince of very superior intellect and character. Some of the Feenous bore the surname Loogolala. When the Resolution and Discovery sailed from Annamooka to Tongataboo, on the 8th of .lune, Poulaho and Fenou also proceeded thither in their respective canoes. In approaching Tongataboo, both ships struck on some coral rocks ; but got into safe anchorage in the evening of the 9th. Among many natives who visited them next morn- ing, was Captain Cook's good friend Attago, or Otago, who brought him a Log, and some yams : Toobou, the friend of Capt. Furneaux, presented a similar token of regard ; and the Captain made suitable returns to both. the deatli he family possession spossessed ho got his ointed sov- Moomooe seded him; leath being pointment, imself. In roobo Neu- »nagaboola ; rrid crimes, le sovereign isles; while of govem- irasions, and in 1810, he enou, whom ery superior 'eenous bore y sailed from Sth of .lune, itber in their Tongataboo, ;ks; but got of the 9th. n next morn- 1 Attago, or some yams : ux, presented Captain made CHAPTER XX. Kiiul reception at Ton-; but afterwards learned, tliat at this moment he was admitted to the high honour of eating with his father, a piece of roasted yam being presented to each of them for this pur- pose. A little time after, the company faced about, and formed a circle in front of the prince ; several champions entered the an a, wrestling and boxing matches were kept up for about half an hour ; two men, sitting before the prince, then delivered ad- dresses, with which the solemnity ended, and the assembly broke up. The fiatookas where these ceremonies were per- foraied, had both been previously examined, by the Captain and Mr. Anderson. At one of them were two rude wooden busts, said to be memorials of departed chiefs. Near them were numbers of etoa trees, to some of which clung many large ternate bats : one of this kind measured nearly three feet, when the wings were extended. Some mourning ceremonies, performed at the fiatookas, by Poulaho and others, on account of relations some time dead, were witnessed. Each mourner put a piece of old mat over his dress, and a small green bough about his neck; and having thrown this down, seated himself before the house, and gave his cheeks a few gentle strokes with the fist. When the death is recent, the blows are often given with such violence as to make the blood flow : hence several persons were seen with scars below their eyes. Poulaho's mourning ended with drinking a bowl of kava. Had our navigators remained a day longer at Tongataboo, they might have witnessed a funeral ceremony ; as the wife of Mareewagee died before the natche, and was to be interred on the day after. 24 ;5^IP?B!?" !PH1 354 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. Ii-M ^'i ii ! Il!»ll -v! * The Captain was also informed, that in about three months, the final celebration of the natche would take place on a far {^rander scale ; when tribute would be broup^ht from Hapaee, Vavaoo, and the rest of the islands ; and ten human victims, of the lower orders, would be sacrificed! Many other illustrations of the despotic power and cruelty of the chiefs, and the abject slavery of the common people, were observed. When a canoe was wanted for any service, the chiefs seized on the first they met with; quantities of fish were taken out of canoes, without giving the owners any compensa- tion ; and the interdict of the great chiefs was found effectual in preventing theft, when they chose to issue their mandate to that effect, and was equally available for recovering what had been stolen. Hence, although pilfering was not uncommon, there were few things of value stolen that were not recovered. Strong measures, however, were some- times required for that purpose. When part of the live stock was stolen, the Captain put Poulaho, Feenou, and other chiefs under i. rest, till this, and other property previously taken, were restored. In one instance only was a thief wounded by a musket shot ; and it was a source of great satisfac- tion to our navigators, that no lives were lost during their stay. In this isle, as in most of the inhabited isles which he visited, Capt. Cook sowed a quantity of useful garden seeds. The dogs left here in the former voyage, were found to have lived and multiplied, and more had since been imported from the Feejee Islands. To benefit the country further, he now gave to Poulaho, a young English bull and cow, with a he-goat and two she-goats j and to Feenou, wm TONGATABOO. 3-55 ut three e would I tribute and the s, of the ly other ruelty of common 3 wanted first they 1 out of )mpepsa- ^as found chose to ,s equally n stolen, icommon, ; were not ere some- 1 part of Poulaho, till this, restored, ded by a t satisfac- were lost sles which of useful he former iiultiplied, Lhe Feejee r, he now and cow, ,0 Feenou, I a horse and a mare ; besides a coupk! of ral)bits, which produced young before the Hhi])s sailed. A youn<^ boar and three young sows, of the English breed, were also left here. A cape ram and two ewes were set apart for Mareewagee ; but as he paid no attention to them, they were taken on board, and afterwards left at Eooa. The chiefs were informed, through Omai, of the great value of these animals, the trouble and expense of bringing them such a distance, the impoitance of refraining from killing them till they were multiplied, and the duty of remembering that they were indebted for them to the English nation. Among the numerous presents made to Poulaho, was a pewter plate, which he purposed to apply to very singular uses. When he had occasion to visit any other island, he left something to represent him at Tongataboo, to which the people paid the same obeisance as to himself; and whereas this honour had hitherto been conferred on a wooden bowl in V iiich he washed his hands, he would now put the p wter plat^' in its stead. The bowl had likewise bei i employed to detect theft, by a curious sort of ordeal. When any thing vas stolen, and the thief not discovered, an assembly was held, at which the King washed his hands in water in this vessel; a; id after it was cleant'd, the whole multi- tude came forward, one by one to do obeisance to it, as they did usually to his leet. If the guilty person presumed to touch it, he was expected to die immediately by the hand of Providence ; so that the individual vfho refused to touch it, through u ..V of instant death, was known to be the thief. In j,his important service also, the plate was to be loistituted for the wooden bowl. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^< ^ ^ A K ^ 7a 1.0 I.I 1.25 50 ""^^ ini^B ^ us, 2.0 1.8 U II 1.6 /}. -<^ '■^ '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation L1>' .•V (V N> LV 6^ 23 w£ST rr«romptly by the ng grog, mpanies lat they iends in girls of )ok paid )ld man, or Orra, ain trees awning ippeared •wma OAITIPHA. 363 as an ordinary chief. Another pereon was met with here, pretending to be divinely inspired, and to utter predictions, or deliver oracles, and hence called an Eatooa. He seemed to be a peraon of an indifferent character, and not much regarded. It was not till the 17th, that Waheatua, or Wa- heiadooa. King of Tiarabu, came to the place, and was waited on by Captain Cook and his friends. This was a young brother of the Waheatua, men- tioned in the former voyage, who had died . about twenty months before the arrival of the ships. His tupapotv, that is, the shed, or awning, where his body still lay in state, in a reclining posture, was found by some of the gentlemen, in their walks, and mistaken for a Roman Catholic chapel. Two men constantly guarded the place, and no stranger was permitted to enter within the palli- sades that inclosed it. The young prince, now visited, was but twelve years old, and was accom- panied by his mother ; a chief named Etorea, his tutor ; with Etary, and others. He had sent a pre- sent of two hogs, and the Captain now made him presents in return ; and after some speechifying, in which Omai bore a part, a treaty of friendship was ratified, the King and the Captain embracing each other, and exchanging names ; and then going on board together to dine. The prince afterwards sent another present of ten or tv/elve hogs, with a quantity of fruit, and cloth. Omai at the visit paid to Waheatua, wore a dress, neither English nor Tahitian, but forming a strange medley of all that he possessed. He had prepared a maro, or girdle, of red and yellow fea- thers, of very great value, intended as a present for Otoo. The Capta'n advised him to keep it on 364 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. ^!l I ' 1' i f board, till he could give it to Otoo in person : but he foolishly resolved to hand it to Waheatua, to be forwarded to Otoo as an addition to the royal maro, supposing that thus he would oblige both chiefs. But a prize so valuable was too tempting for Waheatua and his friends ; only a small part of the feathers was sent to Otoo : and hence, the effect of the present was completely lost ; for Wa- heatua felt little or no gratitude, and Otoo, whose favour was of more consequence, was highly offended. Having parted with their friends in Tiarabu, our navigators sailed out of the bay, in the morning of the 23rd, and arrived at Matavai in the evening. Next morning, Capt. Cook landed vith Omai, and found King Otoo waiting there, attended by his father, his two brothers, and three sisters, with an immense concourse of people. Omai was dressed in his best, and behaved well ; he gave the King, whom he respectfully saluted, a large piece of red feathers, and two or three yards of gold cloth ; while the Captain gave him a suit of fine linen, a gold-laced hat, some tools, a quantity of red fea- thers, and one of the rich royal bonnets, used at the Friendly Isles. The royul party went on board with the Captain, followed by canoes laden with their presents, consisting of provisions of all kinds, sufficient to serve the people of both ships for a week. The King's mother afterwards came on board, with a quantity of provisions and cloth, which she divided between the Captain and Omai. The latter was little noticed, till it was known that he was rich. Among those who met Capt. Cook at Matavai, was his affectionate friend Oedidee, or Heete-heete, '^W MATAVAI. 365 person : iheatua, le royal »e both impting part of ice, the br Wa- ►, whose highly ibu, our rning of ivening. lai, and by his with an drcssed e King, B of red I cloth ; linen, a red rea- lised at n board en with II kinds, ps for a aine on cloth, i Omai. wn that ^atavai, ;e-heete, called also Mahine, by Mr. Forster. Ho had ar- rived here three months before, and was glad to meet his English friends; whose language and manners he had not entirely forgotten, although he preferred his native dress. The Captain gave him a chest of tools, with some clothes sent him by the Admiralty ; but the latter, after a lew days, he declined wearing. During the stay of the ships here, he gave a dinner on shore to his English friends, and some Tahitian chiefs ; as Omai also did. King Otoo was of the party, at both dinners. The most valuable presents brought hither by our navigator, consisted of live stock, which he felt great pleasure in bringing ashore, and committing to Otoo. The poultry he took to Oparre, the King's usual residence ; consisting of a peacock and hen, a present from Lord Besborough ; a turkey cock and hen ; a drake, and four ducks ; a gander, and three geese : besides which, there was here the old gander, which Captain Wallis gave Oberea ten years before. The Spanish bull was here, tied to a tree near Otoo's house ; a very fine animal : and three cows were now sent to him. As the bull belonged to Etary, who proposed to take it to Bolabola, another was left at Matavai, with a horse and mare, and some sheep. The Spanish goats had multiplied, and several of them belonged to Otoo. The geese and ducks began to breed before the ships sailed. — A new garden was cleared, and many vegetables were plan' ed: melons, potatoes, and pine-apples seemed to thrive; and shaddock trees, brought from the Friendly Islands. The Spaniards had planted a vine at Oaitipiha; but the natives, trying the fruit when unripe, thought it poisonous, and trode it down. Yet it n 366 cook's third voyage. was not wholly destroyed ; and Omai, who told them of their mistake, took some slips to carry with him. — Captains Cook and Gierke took a ride on horseback for the first time, on the 14th of Sept., and continued this exercise daily during the rest of their stay ; to the great surprise and amazement of the natives, who gazed on them with wonder, as if they had been centaurs. Nothing had hither- to given them higher ideas of the power and great- ness of Europeans. The Captain was visited at Matavai by great numbera of his old friends, all of whom brought presents ; so that more provisions were obtained than could well be made use of : at the same time, there was no apprehension of exhausting the island, which every where exhibited tokens of the most exuberant plenty.' — The celebrated Oberea was now dead.' Tee, the King's uncle, had also been dead about four months. The elegant tupapow, where his body was preserved at Oparre, was visit- ed by the Captain, though he was not permitted to go within the pales. The body had undergone a process of embalming ; and being rubbed over with cocoa-nut oil, and other substances, was but little changed. The features were not much alter- ed, the joints were quite pliable, and no disagree- able smell was felt. Oamo, the husband of Oberea, died at the time the ships were leaving Otaheite. About a week after the arrival of our people at Matavai, tidings came from Eimeo, that the in- habitants were in arms, and that Otoo's party had been worsted. The formidable aimament prepar- ing in 1774, when Captain Cook was last here, had not succeeded in subjugating that island; and the quarrel between the two islands seemed to have TH WAR WITH EIMEO. 367 lio toltl ry with ride on r Sept., the rest tzement ivonder, hither- d great- >y great brought »btained ne time, e island, he most rea was Iso been tupapow, /as visit- ermitted idergone 3ed over was but ch alter- iisagree- ' Oberea, aheite. )eople at i the in- arty had prepar- ast here, nd; and I to have subsisted ever since. A council was now held, at which the Captain was present ; and after a noisy debate among the chiefs, the party for war prevail- ed. The Captain was urged to assist in the war, but refused, on the ground that the people of Eimeo had never offended him. He was desirous to bring about an accommodation between the contending parties, and afterwards spoke to the King's father on the subject, but found him bent on prosecuting the war. Towha, the great naval commander of 1774, who was not at the council, was still more resolute. Early on monday morning, September Ist, he sent word to Otoo, that he had killed a man to be offered in sacrifice to the Eatooa, viz. to Oro, the the god of war, at the great moral at Attahooroo. The King's presence being necessary at the offer- ing of a human sacrificvi, he set out immediately, with the Captain, in his boat; accompanied by Potatou, and Messrs. Anderson and Webber ; Omai following in a canoe. At a small island in their way, they met with Towha and his retinue ; who gave Otoo a small tuft of red feathers, and put on board a lean dog for sacrifice, and a priest. On arriving at Attahooroo, Otoo desired that the sea- men should remain in the boat, and that the gen- tlemen should take off their hats at the moral. The human victim, partly wrapped up in cocoa leaves and small branches, was in a small canoe on the beach, with two priests and their attendants ; while other priests and their attendants were at the moral. Otoo having placed himself about 20 or 30 paces from the priests, one of the attendants laid a young plantain tree before him, and another touched his feet with a tuft of red feathers. A 368 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. I:1K '' priest at the morai then made a long prayer ; and sent down, at intervals, young plantain trees, which were laid on the sacrifice. The priests then left the morai, and sat down with those on the beach ; taking with them two bundles, one containing the royal maro, while in the other was the ark of the Eatooa. Here the prayers were renewed, the plan- tain trees were removed one by one, the victim was taken out of the canoe, and laid upon the beach, with the feet to the sea ; and after farther prayers and ceremonies, was uncovered, and laid parallel to the shore. One of the priests then standing at the feet, made a long prayer, in which the others joined him, each holding a tuft of red feathers : and during this prayer, some hair was pulled from the victim's head, and the left eye taken out; both which were presented to Otoo, wrapped up in a green leaf. This seemed to be a relic of cannibalism, being called " eating the man," or " food for the chief : " but though it was held to the King's mouth, it was presently with- drawn, and Otoo returned with it the tuft of feathers received from Towha. Tlie body was now moved nearer the morai, with the head towards it ; and here the chief priest spoke for a quarter of an hour, addressing himself to the victim, whom he desired to intercede with Oro for success in the war. He then, with some other priests, chanted a prayer, which lasted half an hour, in a mournful tone ; and during this prayer, some hair was plucked from the head of the corpse, and laid on one of the two bundles. He next prayed alone, holding in his hand the tuft of feathers received from Towha ; which he handed to another, who prayed after him. The corpse was then removed to the most conspicu- 1 1 m HUMAN SACRIFICES. 369 lycv; and ees, which en left the tie beach; aining the ark of the I, the plan- the victim i upon the ift«r farther jd, and laid priests then er,in which X tuft of red me hair was the left eye ted to Otoo, ieemed to be « eating the though it was •esently wita- ,uft of feathers ts now moved , wards it; and terofanhour, lom he desii^d the war. He ited a prayer, ttournful tone ; r was plucked d on one of the )ne, holding m dfromTowha; •ayed after him. mostconspicu- M ■'J'j Oiis part of the moral ; the bundles and feathers were laid against the pile of stones, and two drums were beat slowly. The prayers were again renewed by the priests, while their attendants dug a grave, two feet deep, into which they threw the unhappy victim, and then covered him with earth and stones. At this time a boy squeaked aloud, and repeated his screams at intervals, while the drums were beat very loud. This was understood to be an invita- tion to the Eatooa to feast on the sacrifice : and now the dog was killed, and its entrails having been thrown into a fire to be consumed, its carcase was laid before the priests, who were praying round the grave ; and afterwards laid on a tvhatta, or scaffold, where the remains of former sacrifices of dogs and hogs lay. Upon this a shout was raised by the priests, which closed the ceremonies of the day. Next morning the solemnity was renewed ; when a pig was sacrificed, and placed on the whatta. After some prayers and ceremonies, another pig was killed ; and then the royal maro, a girdle about 6 yards long and 15 inches broad, richly adorned with red and yellow feathers, was taken out of one of the bundles, and displayed before Otoo, at whose feet a young plantain tree had been pre- viously laid : and, a long prayer having been made, the maro was carefully folded up again, and de- posited on the morai. The other bundle, contain- ing the emblem of Oro, which our navigator was not allowed to see, was then opened at one end. The entrails of the pig that was last killed, were now spread forth, and carefully examined by the priests, to see if they presented any favourable omen; the examination being accompanied with 2d h ■i 370 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. If . I ,y prayer. The entrails were then thrown into the fire to be consumed, and the carcase was placed on the whatta. The tufts of red feathers that had been used on this occasion, were all shut up in the ark of the Eatooa ; and the solemnity finally closed. During this day's service, Otoo was sta- tioned between the two drums, in front of the moral, and the Captain bebide him. Our navigator was duly affected with the hor- rors of this human sacrifice ; more especially as he counted on the stone platform, or low altar, ad- joining to the whatta, or elevated altar, no less than 49 skulls of human victims, none of which were so old as to have been injured by time, or by exposure to the weather. The skull of this poor wretch would be taken up from the grave, after the lapse of some months, and make up the number to 60. And this was not the only addition to be made at this time ; for, in ten days after, another un- fortunate victim, sent by Waheatua, was offered up here; on occasion of Otoo's restoring to the friends of the late Tootaha, the lands and posses- sions withheld from them since his death. The Captain did not know of this second sacrifice, till it was too late for him to witness it. At the place where the skulls lay, were a number of those up- right planks, or pieces of wood, called unus, curi- ously carved, and used to represent tiis, or spirits. It was observed, that, during the offering of the human sacrifice, the company present did not manifest that seriousness which might have been expected. Even some of the priests, not im- mediately engaged, were conversing together, and a great part of the company, instead of attending to the solemnities, were crowding around Omai, to n I H^B5 HUMAN SACRIFICES. 371 nto the placed hat had t up in r finally vas sta- of the the hor- ily as he Itar, ad- no less jf which ae, or by :his poor after the umber to be made )ther un- is offered [g to the d posses- ith. The rifice, till the place those up- mus, curi- or spirits. )ffeiing of esent did ight have ;s, not im- ether, and attending i Omai, to i hear him relate his adventures, a task for which he was ever ready. Yet the King seemed to feel a a superstitious awe; for when a kingfisher was making a noise in the trees, during the ceremonies, he said to Captain Cook, " That is the Eatooa." The screaming of a boy, too, when they were burying the human victim, and sacrificing the dog, seemed to impress many with the idea of a present divinity. During the horrid ceremony, the Captain ob- served a profound silence ; but, in returning home with Otoo, he expressed his detestation of it, to him and his attendants; and afterwards to Towha, whom they again met with at the small island. He told them, that such a cruel sacrifice, instead of propitiating the Deity, would rather draw down his vengeance ; and he ventured to predict, that the war with Eimeo would prove unsuccessful; which he could safely anticipate from the disunion of the Tahitians. Omai, who acted as his inter- preter, seconded his remonstrances so warmly, that Towha seemed to be in great wrath; and when Om.ii told him, that had he thus put a man to death in England, his rank would not have pro- tected him from being hanged, he exclaimed, " vile ! vile ;" and would not hear another word. Several natives present, heard Omai's statement with very different feelings. Towha seemed angry with Captain Cook also, because he peremptorily refused to take part in the war. The evening of this day was spent by Captain Cook and his friends at Otoo's house, where they were entertained with a heeva, or play, in which his three sisters were performers. With such exhi- bitions our people were often amused; besides 372 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. I*<: I < being treated with feasts, and plentifully supplied with provisions, in the form of presents ; for which, of course, suitable returns were made. On the day when Oedidee g-ave a dinner, a large present of cloth was sent by Whappai, the King's father, in a most singular way : the cloth was wrapped round two girls in such quantity, that each of them mea- sured five or six yards round, so that it was with difficulty they were conducted on board, along with a quantity of hogs and fruit. As Captain Cook sometimes entertained the natives with exhibitions of fireworks and military exercises, he was himself entertained with a speci- men of their naval manoeuvres, and mode of fight- ing at sea. Two war canoes, the one commanded by Otoo, the other by Omai, went through various movements of advancing and retreating ; till at last they closed, and after all the men on the fighting stage in Otoo's vessel were supposed to be killed, Omai's party boarded it, while Otoo and his friends leaped overboard, as if to save their lives : for in their engagements no quarter is given. The strength of these islands lies in their navies, and their decisive battles are fought on the water. The war with Eimeo, conducted by Towha, Potatow, and other chiefs, was feebly carried on. They sent repeatedly to Otoo for reinforcements , but, on monday, September 22nd, when the King was ready *;o sail with a large fleet, accompanied by his British friends, who were then ready to put to sea, news came that Towha had made peace with the men of Eimeo, and had returned with his fleet to Attahooroo. He was blamed for making a dishonourable peace, instead of waiting for rein- forcements ; Whappai, in particular, was vexed at > I mp rEACE WITH ElMEO. 373 applied • which, the clay sent of ler, in a d round jm mea- A^as with d, along ned the military I a speci- of tight- nmanded h various ;; till at a. on the Dsed to be 5too and save their ir is given, eir navies, uhe water. y Towha, carried on. )rcement.j , I the King companied ady to put flade peace ed with his •r making a g for rein- as vexed at this result, as he wisely judged, that Capt. Cook's accompanying Otoo's fleet to Eimeo, though he took no part in the war, would have been of sin- gular service to their cause. Towha, on the other hand, laid all the blame on Otoo, who had delayed too long to support him. He even threatened, it was said, to attack Otoo in revenge, as soon as Caj)tain Cook should leave the place : to prevent which, the latter openly declared, that whoever presumed to injure his friend, should feel the weight of his displeasure, at his next visit to the island. Waving their differences, at least for the pre- sent, the chiefs resolved to hold a public meeting at the great morai in Attahooroo, to confirm the peace, and acknowledge the god Oro on the occa- sion : and Towha sent a messenger with a plantain tree to Otoo, to request his attendance. Lieut. King and Omai accompanied him ; and they land- ed at Tettaha, where he and Towha had a good deal of conversation. Next morning much ava was drunk (the kava of the Friendly Isles), and one man was completely intoxicated. Towha had an affecting meeting with his wife and daughter, who cut their heads, and shed both blood and tears ; and the girl had to renew her sufferings, on the arrival of Terridiri, Oberea's son. On reaching Attahooroo with Otoo, our friends saw three canoes hauled up on the beach, with three hogs exposed in each. The intended so- lemnity, however, was not performed that day; but a chief from Eimeo came with a small pig, and a plantain tree, and placed them at Otoo's feet ; after which they had much conversation on the affairs of the two islands. .(^ 374 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. J 1 On v/ednesday, the 24th, Towha and Potatovv, with «,ight large canoes, landed near the moral ; and many plantain trees were presented to Otoo, on the part of different chiefs. The chief priest then brought out the royal maro and the ark of Oro, which were placed at the head of the grave, where a human victim had been buried; while three priests took their station at the foot of the grave. Tlie priests then pronounced various sen- tences, and sung a melancholy ditty; and when they had sung and prayed about an hour, the chief priest, after a short prayer, uncovered the maro ; and Otoo, rising up, wrapped it about him, holding also in his hand a cap of feathers, in which the red feathers of the tail of the tropic bird were most conspicuous. He stood facing the three priests, who continued praying for about ten mi- nutes ; when a man, starting from the crowd, said something which ended with the word heiva ! and the crowd thrice echoed back to him, Earee ! The company then moved to the opposite side of the morai, where the same ceremony was perfonned, ending with three cheers. The maro was now wrapped up and laid aside, after Otoo had stuck in it a small piece of red feathers, given him by one of the priests. The company next retired to a large building, adjoining the morai; and when they had seated themselves in order, several speeches were de- livered, which, according to Omai, were all pacific. A man afterwards rose up, with a sling round his waist, and a large stone on his shoulder ; and after parading nearly a quarter of an hour, and singing some sentences, he threw down the stone ; which, with a plantain tree that lay at Otoo's feet, being 'I warn OMAI S IMPRUDENT CONDUCT. 3^0 Potatow, e morai ; to Otoo, lief priest he ark of ;he grave, id ; while )ot of the rious sen- and when hour, the :)vered the about him, eathers, in tropic bird g the three ut ten mi- rowd, said heiva ! and laree ! I'he side of the performed, ) was now ) had stuck ven him by re building, had seated s were de- 2 all pacific. y round his r; and after and singing me ; which, feet, being u carried to the morai, Otoo and a priest uttered some words, which closed the solemnity. — The 4 plantain tree seems to be much used by these 1 islanders, not only as the olive branch of peace, \ but as a mark of homage, and token of devotion. It was an attack of rheumatism that prevented Capt. Cook from being present at this solemnity, i and of this disorder he was speedily cured, by an I operation which had also been successfully per- I formed here on Capt. Wallis. A dozen females, including the King's mother and three sisters, accompanied him on board the Resolution ; and when he was laid upon a bed on the cabin floor, they surrounded him on every side, and began to squeeze him with both hands from head to foot, till his bones cracked, and his flesh became a per- fect mummy. When the process had been con- tinued about a quarter of an hour, the Captain felt so much relieved by it, that he submitted to it a second time, before he went to bed. This opera- tion, which is called romee, was repeated by his female physicians in the morning, before they went ashore ; and again in the evening, when they re- turned on board. Next morning, they took leave of their patient, the cure being then perfected. Our navigator intended to leave Omai at Ota- heite, where he might have been useful in instruct- ing the natives in the management of the European animals, now left here : but he acted so imprudent- ly as to forfeit the friendship of Otoo, and all the principal chiefs. He associated with vagabonds and strangers, whose sole views were to plunder him ; and this drew upon him the ill-will of the chiefs, who found that they could not procure from any one in the ships, such valuable presents as •I 37G COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. Omai bestowed on the lowest of the people, h'm companions. He would not have behaved so un- like himself, had it not been for the sinister influ- ence of his sister and brother-in-law, who, with a few of their acquaintance, souf^ht to engross him entirely to themselves, to strip him of every thing. To save him from ruin, the Captain was obliged to take the most useful articles of his property into his own custody, to remove him to Huaheine, and peremptorily to forbid these seltish people to follow him thither. Omai, however, had got one good thing here, for the many good things he gave away; viz. a fine double canoe, presented by Tow- ha, completely equipped, and fit for the sea : and he decked it out with ten or a dozen flags and pendants, of different nations. He also provided himself with a good stock of cloth, and cocoa-nut oil, at Otalieite ; where they are better and cheaper, than at the other islands. A day or two before the ships sailed, Otoo came on board, and begged the Captain to take home a canoe with him, which he had prepared as a pre- sent to the Earee rahie no Pretane — " the King of Britain." Capt. Cook was much pleased with this token of gratitude, which was altogether spontane- ous, and regretted that he could not accept the present, as it was too large to take on board. It was a handsome double canoe, richly decorated with carved work. In leaving Otaheite at this time, it was a pleas- ing reflection for our navigators, that nothing had occurred during their stay, to interrupt their friend- ly intercourse with the inhabitants. No accidents had taken place, and no thefts of any consequence had been committed. The Captain had prudently people, his ivetl so un- nister influ- vvho, with a ill gross him svery thing. s obliged to roperty into aheine, and )le to follow >t one good gs he gave ^ed by Tow- le sea : and n flags and Iso provided id cocoa-nut md cheaper, , Otoo came take home a ed as a pre- the King of sed with this ler spontane- t accept the n board. It ly decorated was a pleas- nothing had t their friend- No accidents consequence ad prudently 1 i ■•i.. -a [XT] I 3 ^5? m m DEPARTURE FROM OTAIIEITC. 377 I infonned the cliiefs, througli Omai, at his first interview with them, tliat he was deterniined not to permit the natives to roh or pilfer ; and tliat they would ohtain a much larger share oi Jiritish commodities in tlie way of fair trade, than by at- tempting to steal : and being thus taught, that " Honesty is the best policy," the chiefs not only forbore to steal themselves, but stationed guards, in different places, near Point Venus, to prevent any of the peojile from committing depredations. When Etary, the pretended god of Bolabola, took up his residence at Matavai, he was soon after removed to Oparre ; and this was understood to have taken place at the desire of Otoo, who was afraid that his people might make attempts on the property of his respected visitors. Otoo, indeed, considered Matavai Fort as the property of the British, to be used by them on all occasions : and it is observable, that his son, twenty years after, formally ceded the district of Matavai to Captain Wilson, for the British Missionaries. On monday, Sept. 29th, the ships weighed an- chor, and stood out of the bay ; when, to gratify Otoo and his people, seven guns were fired as a parting salute. Otoo being desirous of seeing the ships sail, Capt. Cook made a stretch out to sea with him, and then in again ; when the King and his attendants took a very affectionate leave of their British friends, and went ashore in his canoe. CHAPTER XXI. »t Arriral at Eimeo : behaviour of Mahcine. Two goati stolen ; the natives compelled by severe measurcH to restore them. Arrival at Iluahcine. Ontai's settlement there: animals, and other property, left with him. liemarks on his situation : lines from Cowper. Sequel of Oniai's history ; and notices of Oedidee. Arrival at Ulietea. Desertion of a marine, who is recovered. Desertion of a midshipman and a sea- man : serious troubles incurred in recovering them. Bola- bola visited : animals left there, and at Ulietea. Discovery of Christmas Island. The Sandwich Islands discovered. Landing at Atooi. Respectful conduct of the natives, and friendly trade with them. A moral examined. Manners and customs of the natives. Landing at Oneeheow. Hev- erence shewn to Capt. Cook, as to the native chiefs. On tuesday, Sept. 30th, the ships anchored in the fine harbour of Taloo, in the north part of Eimeo ; which was found to be an excellent place for pro- curing wood and water. The natives soon came hither in crowds ; partly through curiosity, and partly to carry on a friendly trade. On thursday, Oct. 2nd, Maheine, the chief of the island, who held the supreme power, in opposition to Motooaro, the rightful sovereign, Otoo's brother-in-law, came to visit Capt. Cook, along with his wife, who was Oamo's sister ; but knowing the friendship between the Captain and Otoo, with whom he had just been at war, he approached the Resolution very cautiously, and could scarcely be persuaded to go on board. Capt. Cook received him and his lady ■At* !\ EIMEO. 379 at! stolen ; store them, animals, B situation: ind notices a marine, and a sca- |em. Bola- Discovery discovered, atives, and . Manners ow. HcT- 3fs. ed in the f Eimeo ; B for pro- )on came sity, and thursday, md, who lotooaro, iw, came who was between had just ion very ed to go his lady k with kindness, and presents were interchanged, 'i'he chief was bald-headed ; but concealed this defect by a turban. One of the natives who had been caught stealing, was punished l»y our pe()i)le with the tonsure, as inflicted at the Friendly Isles ; and hence it was sui)posed, that baldness, among tlie British, was a mark of disgrace, and some gentlemen on board, not overburdened with hair, were shrewdly suspected to be tefos. The ships had been well repaired at Otaheite ; but, this being a very convenient harbour, a few days were spent here in paying further attention to the stores, particularly in tarring the heads of the spirit casks, to save them from insects. In the mean time, four goats which had been procured from Otoo, were taken on shore to graze, with some other cattle ; and once or twice, Capt. Cook and Omai took a ride on horseback along the shore, to the no small wonder of the inhabitai^ts. The landing of the goats, however, proved the occasion of much trouble and mischief. Maheine had begged a couple of them ; but the Captain having destined them for other islands, instead of granting his request, desired Tidooa, a Tahitian chief, who was present, to beg Otoo to send two goats to Maheine, and sent a large piece of red feathers to pay for them. This arrangement did not satisfy Maheine, and or. monday, the 6th, one of the goats was found to have been stolen. A boat was despatch jd next day to Maheine, then at the neighbouring harbour of Parowroah, requiring him to deliver up the goat, and also the thief; and the boat returned in the evening, bringing not only the goat, but one of the thieves. In the mean time, the goats being sent off again to graze, ano- 380 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 1 ■( I I thei" of them had been stolen, before this came back. Next morning-, the natives were found to have deserted the place, and it was learned that Ma- heine himself had removed. The Captain, per- ceiving, that the latter had resolved to steal what he had been refused, determined to make him re- turn the g-oat : and accordingly sent a boat, with two petty officers, to Watea, whither it was said to have been conveyed, to demand it of Hamoa, chief of that place ; but the natives amused them with vain pretences, and the boat returned in the even- ing without it. Capt. Cook was now sorry that he had proceeded so far, but, with that firmness of purpose for which he was noted, he would not now retract, and resolved to recover the goat, what- ever it might cost. Omai, and two old men, who had assisted him in recovering the other goat, advised him to march with a party through the country, and shoot every person that could be met with. This bloody counsel was of course rejected ; but, on the morning of the 9th, a party of about 40 proceeded with the Captain into the interior, while three armed boats, commanded by Lieut. Williamson, were sent round to the west side of the island, to meet thera. When the land party reached Watea, Hamoa, and such of his people as had not fled, denied that they had seen the goat, or knew any thing of it. The natives had been seen running to and fro with clubs and darts ' but seeing the Capt,, in's force, they gave up the idea of resisting. Omai was employed to warn them of the consequences of refusing to surrender the goat; and as they persisted in denying all knowledge of it, Capt. Cook burned six or eight houses, and two EIMEO. 381 this came id to have that Ma- itain, per- steal what ke him re- boat, with was said to iraoa, chief them with 1 the even- rry that he lirmness of would not ^oat, w hat- men, who )ther ^oat, iroujj^h the Lild be met le rejected; y of about le interior, by Lieut. est side of land party 5 j^eople as a the goat, liad been darts • but p the idea rn them of r the goat ; 3wledge of s, and two or three war canoes lying near them. Proceeding some miles further, he consumed other six- war canoes ; but another that lay in the way, beyond these, was spared at the humble request of the na- tives, who came with plantain trees in their hands, and laid them at the Captain's feet. The party met the boats in a part of the island belonging to Otoo's friends, and returned by sea to the ships, where no account of the goat had been received. Early next morning, the Captain sent a pe- remptory message to Maheine, by one of Omai's servants, threatening to destroy the whole of his canoes, if he persisted in keeping the goat; and before the messenger set out, the carpenter was sent to break up three, or four canoes that lay at the head of the harbour; the plank being carried on board, to aid in constructing a house for Omai. In the afternoon, three or four more were broken up in tlie next harbour, and as many burnt. These last might have been spared ; for, in consequence of the message sent to Maheine, the goat was l>r«)ught back before the party returned from this work of destruction. The Captain was exceedingly grieved in reflecting, that after having resisted the pressing invitations of the Tahitians to take part in the war against Maheine, he had thus been compelled to resort to hostilities, which probably did more mischief than Towha's expedition. The natives, however, appeared conscious, that the blame rested with themselves ; for, after the goat was restored, they renewed their friendly trade, in the full confidence, that no further harm would be done them. Leaving Eimeo on the 11th, our navigators ar- rived next day at Fare harbour, in Huaheine ; \i, 382 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. Omai preceding them in his canoe. The Tahi- tians, who had come with them, gave a very ex- aggerated account of the mischief done at Eimeo ; and at this the Captain was not sorry, as the peo- ple of Huaheine required such a lesson. This island was now almost in a state of anarchy ; Oree, the friend of Cook, had been forced to resign the sovereign power, which he had held as regent for Taireetareea ; and the latter, being still a boy of eight or ten years, could not exercise much au- thority over the chiefs. As the Captain wished Omai to settle here, an assembly was held on the 13t)i, attended by a great number of respectable looking chiefs, as well as the prince; when Omai, Avith much ceremony, gave handsome presents to him, and to his Eatooa; accompanied with prayere, in which the King of B'-itain, Lord Sandwich, Cook, and Clerke, were not forgotten. Some of the presents were sent to the moral. Capt. Cook then exchanged presents with the young King; and Omai, by the Captain's direction, made a speech on the subject of his voyage to Britain, the good treatment he had there received, the rich presents he had brought back, and his wish to settle, with all his property, in that island. — Omai had expected, that Capt. Cook would reinstate him in his paternal inheritance in TJlietea, expelling the men of Bolabola ; and so tent was he on conquering the latter, to gratify a spirit of revenge, that when Etary, at Otaheite, offered to give him peaceable possession of the in- heritance of his fathei*s, he spurned at the offer. On this subject he had talked idly to some of the chiefs, present at this meeting, and they were pleased with the idea of driving out the Bolabola OMAI SETTLED AT HUAHEINE. 383 The Tahi- a very ex- at Eimeo ; 15 the peo- ison. This chy ; Oree, resign the regent for 11 a boy of much au- le here, an nded by a efs, as well ceremony, his Eatooa; le King of lerke, were ere sent to sd presents e Captain's )ject of his e had there lUght back, iroperty, in Capt. Cook leritance in la ; and so to gratify a t Otaheite, . of the in- t the offer. 3me of the they were 16 Bolabola I men : but the Captain peremptorily declaring in this assembly, that he would neither countenance nor permit any hostile invasion of Ulietea, for such a purpose, the settlement of Omai at Huaheine was at once agreed to. A piece of ground, with a front of 200 yards towards the harbour, and ex- tending backward to the hill, was set apart as Omai's property : and here a house was erected for him by the carpenters, while others were employed in making him a garden, and planting it with vegetables and fruit trees, including shaddocks, vines, pine-apples, and melons. His house being finished, on the 26th, he took possession of it, with his goods, and his family ; the latter consist- ing of four or five persons whom he picked up at Otaheite, a brother and some others who joined him at Huaheine, and the two New Zealand youths, who felt much regret in parting with their British friends. He had also a sister and brother- in-law here ; who, with his brother, received him aft'ectionately ; and did not seek to plunder him, like his relations at Otaheite. Of his prodigality there, he now heartily repented, beg-inning to feel the impoitance of husbanding his resources. Many culinary utensils, and articles of furniture, given him in England, but of no use here, he ex- changed with persons on board, for hatchets and iron tools. In order to secure the favour and patronage of some of the principal chiefs, he divided among them a portion of his property, by the Captain's direction. Some of his acquisitions excited much interest among the natives ; particularly a box of toys, which he shewed them, and his fire-works, of which he gave an exliibition in the evening of the 384 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. 28th. He himself set most value on his coat of mail, and his Eui'oj)ean weapons ; consisting of a musket, bayonet, and cartouch box ; a fowlinp;-- I)iece, two pair of pistols, and two or three swords or cutlasses. Capt. Cook doubted the propriety of his having fire-arms, as there was a danfjcer of his not makinpf a prudent use of them ; but his heart was much set on these weapons. After his settlement on shore, he had most of the officers of both ships to dinner, two or three times ; and entertained them liberally. Tlie animals left with him consisted of a horse and mare, on which he set much value ; a p^oat bi<;' with kid ; and a boar and two sows, of the Unglish breed ; besides a sow or two of his own. The i^^oat died in kidding, about a fortnight after the ships left Huaheine ; and on his sending notice of his loss to Ca})t. Cook, then at lllietea, his messengers received two kids for him, male and female, which were spared out of the Discovery. A man of Bolabola, a hardened thief, whom the Captain had severely punished for stealing a sex- tant, not only shaving him, but cropping his ears, committed depredations in Omai's garden, and threatened to kill him. Capt. Cook, to free him from such a dangerous neighbour, took him into custody, to transport him to Ulietea. He contriv- ed, however, to escape from the ship ; but was found to have removed to that very island. When about to leave Huaheine, Captain Cook got the following inscription cut upon the outside of Omai's house : Gcorgius Tert'ms, Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777. Naves I Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr. \Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr. PARTING WITH OMAI. aso his coat of isisting of a a fowlin*?- tliree swords le propriety a danfj^er of jm ; but his ;. After his lie officers of times; and ;d of a horse e ; a ffoat big f the Kinglisb n. The goat fter the ships notice of his is messengers female, which ief, whom the tealing a sex- ping his ears, garden, and K, to free him took him into He contriv- [11 p ; but was sland. Captain Cook on the outside ms, 1777. V. Ill the afternoon of the 2nd of November, our j navigators sailed out of Fare harbour, when five I guns were fired as a salute. Omai came off with ! tlie ships a short distance ; and then went on shore, having bid farewell to his kind British friends, in the most affectionate manner, with many tears. ^ Before he sailed, the Captain, for the further security of Omai, intimated to the principal chiefs, that if they should presume to molest his friend, they might expect to feel the weight of his resent- ment, on his next visit to their island. Captain Cook felt much satisfaction, in having restored him safe to the very spot from which he was taken. Yet he justly questioned, whether the happiness of Omai was not diminished, rather than increased, by his connexion with the British ; both because his riches exposed him to greater danger, and be- cause the sweets of civilized life, of which he had tasted, were no more within his reach. This last idea is beautifully illustrated by Cowper : '1 These therefore I can pity, plac'd remote ■f From all that science traces, art invents, Or inspiration teaches ; and enclos'd In boundless oceans never to be pass'd By navigators uninform'd as they, Or ploughed perhaps by British bark again : But far beyond the rest, an?' with most cause, Thee, gentle savage ! whom no love of thee Or thine, but curiosity perhaps, Or else vainglory, prompted us to draw Forth from thy native bow'rs, to show thee here With what superior skill we can abuse The gifts of Providence, and squander life. ; The dream is past ; and thou hast found again ' Thy cocoas and bananas, palms and yams. And homestall thatch'd with leaves. But hast thou found 26 u^ fit 386 cook's third voyage. Their former charms ? And, having seen our state, Our palaces, our ladies, and our pomp Of equipage, our gardens, and our sports. And heard our music ; are thy simple friends, Thy simple fare, and all thy plain delights, As dear to thee as once ? And have thy joys Lost nothing by comparison with ours ? Rude as thou art, (for vre return'd thee rude And ignorant, except of outward show) I cannot think thee yet so dull of heart And spiritless, as never to regret Sweets tasted here, and left as soon as known. Methinks 1 see thee straying on the beach, And asking of the surge, that bathes thy foot, If ever it has wash'd our distant shore. I see thee weep, and thine are honest tears, A patriot's for his country: thou art sad At thought of her forlorn and abject state. From which no power of thine can raise her up. Thus Fancy paints thee, and, though apt to err. Perhaps errs little, when she paints thee thus. She tells me too, that duly ev'ry morn Thou climb'st the mountain top, with eager eye Exploring far and wide the wat'ry waste For sight of ship from England. Ev'ry speck Seen in the dim horizon turns thee pale With conflict of contending hopes and fears. But comes at last the dull and dusky eve. And sends thee to thy cabin, well-prepar'd, To dream all night of what the day denied. Alas 1 expect it not. We found no bait To tempt us in thy country. Doing good, Disinterested good, is not our trade. We travel far, 'tis true, but not for nought ; And must be brib'd to compass Earth again By other hopes and richer fruits than yours. The worthy poet was mistaken in supposing, that these islands would no more partake of" British benevolence; yet, as far as Omai was concerned, Lcn in supposing, partake of British ai was concerned SEUL'EL OF OMAIS HISTORY. 387 Ills anticipations proved correct: for before ano- ther Britifili ship visited this group, the " ^antle savage" was no more. When Lieut. Bligh, who had been Master of the Resolution, arrived at Ota- heite, in 1788, to take bread-fruit plants to the West Indies, one of his first inquiries was for our friend Omai ; and he felt greatly disappointed, when he learned, that he and his two New Zea- land boys were all dead : so that they had lived only about ten years, if so much, after their settle- ment at Fare. The sequel of Omai's history is thus given by the Rev. William Ellis, in his Poly- nesian Researches, Vol. II. pp. 94, 95, &c. " The estimate Captain Cook formed of his cha- racter was correct : he appeared to have derived no permanent advantage from the voyage he had ipade, the attention he had received, or the civiliz- ed society with which he had been associated. He soon threw off his European dress, and adopt- ed the costume, uncivilized manners, and indolent life, of his countrymen. Weakness and vanity, together with savage pride, appear to have been the most conspicuous traits of character he de- veloped in subsequent life." " The horses, included among his presents, ap- pear to have been regarded by Mai as mere objects of curiosity, and were occasionally ridden, in order to inspire terror, or excite admiration, in the minds of the inhabitants. His implements of war, and especially the fire-arms, rendered his aid and co- operation a desideratum with the King of the iwand, who, in order more effectually to secure the advantage of his influence and arms, gave him one of his daughters in marriage*, and honoured ♦ If this is correct, the young prince who was reigning in 1 I I 388 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 1 I him with the name of Paari (wise or instructed), by which name he is now always spoken of among the natives ; several of whom still remember him. He appears to have passed the remainder of his life in inglorious indolence or wanton crime, to have become the mere instrument of the caprice or cruelty of the king of the island, who not only availed himself of the effects of his fire-arms in periods of war, but frequently ordered him to shoot at a man at a certain distance, to see how far the musket would do execution ; or to despatch with his pistol, in the presence of the king, the ill-fated objects of his deadly anger." Thus as, on landing, he resumed the worship of his country's idols, he soon relapsed into its vices ; instead of proving a blessing to the island, he was rather a curse ; and, as Mr. Ellis further observes, tiie majority of those whom he heard speak of him, " mentioned his name with execration, rather than respect." Had sufficient pains been taken, while he was in England, to imbue his mind with the principles of true religion, and to instruct him in some of the useful arts, the result might have been very different. The spot where his house stood retains the name Beritani, or Britain ; a shaddock tree, planted by Capt. Cook, grows in his garden ; his helmet, some other parts of his armour, and some cutlasses, are still displayed on the sides of the house erected there ; and even a few of his toys, including a jack-in-a-box, are preserved as curiosities. It is gratifying to add, that as Omai's bible is preserved, 1777, must have been superseded by some other chief more advanced in years ; for that boy could not have a daughter of sufficient age to be Omai's wife, previous to 1788. * ■ [1 nstructed), 1 of among ember him. ncler of his crime, to the caprice ho not only fire-arms in lim to shoot how far the jspatch with the ill-fated e worship of ito its vices ; land, he was her observes, ;peak of him, I, rather than taken, while lind with the [Struct him in rht have been [tins the name e, planted by helmet, some I cutlasses, are house erected 5, including a iosities. It is e is preserved, other chief more ave a daughter of n88. ULIETEA. nso and made use of, a building for divine worshij) now stands in front of the dark and glossy-leaved shaddock tree planted by Capt. Cook ; and on the same spot, the first school in Huaheine was opened by Christian Missionaries. ' Tlie benevolent attempts of Cook, to stock Hua- heine, Otaheite, and other islands, with horses and cattle, did not succeed : it was not till after the introduction of Christianity, and the establishment of permanent peace, that this important object was accomplished. Oedidee (or Hete-hete) survived Omai a num- ber of years. When Lieut. Watts, who had sailed with Cook, visited Otaheite in the liady Penrhyn, in 1788, three months before the arrival of Bligh, he found him at Matavai, in the service of Otoo, then called Pomare ; who was so attached to him, that he would not consent to his accompanying Mr. Watts to Ulietea. Oedidee wanted to go to Britain with Lieut. Bligh ; and he afterwards went with the mutineers in the Bounty to Toobouai; but when the Bounty returned to Matavai, in September, 1789, he was again left there ; and, from his skill in the use of fire-arms, was very serviceable to Pomare, and his son Otoo, in the war with Eimeo, in 1790. When Capt. Bligh, in the Providence, came a second time to Otaheite, for bread-fruit plants, in 1792, he took Oedidee with him to the West Indies, and he was left at Jamaica, in 1793, to take care of the plants. On monday, Nov. 3rd, the ships arrived in the harbour of Ohamaneno, in Ulietea ; and here our navigators were kindly received jjy their friend Oreo, with his family and people; and spent several days in trading for provisions, in nautical ■Tf it ' liL_'' 390 COOK S TIIIRl) VOYAGE. observations, and in paying further attention to the ships and stores. I'evv thefts were committed by the natives, but other troubles unexpectedly occurred. On the 13th, .John Harrison, a marine, deserted, and went to the other side of the island ; where Capt. Cook, accom})anied by Oreo, found him on the 15th, sittinff between two women, with his muskot lying before him. The females rose to plead for him ; but the Captain, to discourage such proceedings, rebuked them with a frown, and sent them off in tears ; and when Paha, the local chief, came with a plantain tree and a sucking pig, as a peace-offering, he rejected his gift, and order- ed him out of his sight. As it was found that Harrison had been enticed away by Paha and the women, he was punished with less severity than might have been expected. Another desertion, wliich threatened to produce worse consequences, was announced on monday, the 24th, when a midshipman and a seaman, belonging to the Discovery, were missing. Capt. Clerke went in pursuit of them ; but the natives amusing him with false infomiation, his search was fruitless. Capt. Cook, knowing that the na- tives rarely presumed to attempt baffling him in the same way, set out himself in pursuit of the fugitives next day, taking Oreo with him ; but on arriving at Otaha, whither they had fled, it was found, that they had escaped to Bolabola. Returning to the ships, he took other measures for recovering the deserters. Oreo's son, witli Poedooa, his daughter, and Pootoe, his son-in-law, were confined on board the Discovery on the 26tli; and Oreo was informed, that unless the deserters were brought back, these prisoners would be car- ULIETEA. 391 ittention to committed nexpectedly [1, a marine, the island ; Oreo, found vomen, with nales rose to discourage a frown, and iha, the local , suckinf? pig, 't, and order- s found that Paha and the severity than ed to produce on monday, id a seaman, lissing. Capt. but the natives on, his search ig that the na- )affling him in pursuit of the vith him ; but iy had fled, it d to Bolabola. other measures reo's son, with , his son-in-law, ery on the 26th; ss the deserters •8 would be car- ried off in the ships. Pootoe's father was imme- diately despatched to Bolabola, with directions to King Opoony to seize and restore the fugitives. In the mean time, many natives, chiefly women, came under the Discovery's stern in canoes, be- wailing the fate of the prisoners, especially Poe- dooa, and expressing their grief by shedding their blood as well as their tears. While the women were thus engaged in lamentation, some of the men, impatient for the liberation of the royal cap- tives, were devising means for retaliating on Capt. Cook in his own way. They first proposed to lay hold of himself, when he should go to bathe ; as he was wont to retire for this purpose daily, alone and unarmed ; but his prudence having frustrated this daring plan, they were about to seize Capt. Clerke and Lieut. Gore, who had walked out a little way from the ships ; when Capt. Cook, apprized of their danger, instantly sent a strong party to rescue them, and another to stop the canoes, that were hurrying out of the harbour. The people who were going to seize the two officers, hearing two or three muskets fired, and seeing Capt. Clerke armed with a pistol, desisted from their enterprise. A girl whom one of the oflftcers had brought from Huaheine, was the person who apprized Captain Cook of this daring conspiracy, and as the natives threatened to kill her, it was found necessary to convey her away to a place of safety. On the 28th, Oreo himself set out for Bolabola, in quest of the deserters ; they had escaped from thence to the small island Toobaee, but were there seized, and brought back to the ships ; upon which the three prisoners were released, and a friendly trade with the natives resumed. The ships were, however, 392 COOKS THIRD VOVAGK. ij . lurtlier detained, by contrary winds, till the 7tli of December. Durinj; bis stay here, Capt. Cook gave instructions to Capt. Clerke, bow to proceed in case tbe vessels should part company in tiie voyage nortbvvard. Oree, the former sovereign, or regent, of Iluabeine, was met with liere ; and Ooroo, tbe detbroned monarcb of Ulietea. 13otb of them bad still a considerable retinue, and were treated witii much respect. On monday, Dec. 8tb, tbe sbips arrived at Bola- bola, where tbere is a good harbour on tlie west side of tbe island. The wind and tide being unfavourable for entering tbe barbour, Capt. Cook contented himself witb going on sbore in a boat, accompanied by Oreo and some friends, wbo bad come witb bim from Ulietea. He was introduced to King Opoony, in tbe midst of a crowd of peo- ple ; and purcbased from bim an imperfect an- cbor, wbich Bougainville bad lost at Otabeite, to make iron tools of it for trade, tbe stock being now very low. Tbe Captain gave for it six axes, with several gannents and toys. He also presented Opoony witb a Cape ewe, having learned that be had got a Spanish ram. To Oreo be gave, at Ulietea, a pair of goats, and an English boar and sow. He stopped but a few hours at Bolabola, and then bade a final adieu to the chiefs and their friends, and to those lovely isles of the Pacific, where he had spent so many pleasant days. Many natives had begged to be taken on board, to visit Britain ; but he peremptorily refused every such application. — His journal regarding this visit to Otabeite and the Society Isles, closes with a number of additional observations, relating to the islands, their productions, and their inhabitants; -I SANDWICH ISt.KS. — ATOOI. 303 e 7th of ok gave 1 ill case voyage r regent, )roo, the hem had ted with at Bola- the west Je being ,pt. Cook [1 a boat, who had itroduced d of peo- rfect an- aheite, to )eing now axes, with presented d that he I gave, at boar and Bolabola, ; and their le Pacific, ys. Many rd, to visit jvery such lis visit to es with a ting to the ihabitants ; partly by himself, and partly by Mr. Anderson* From IJoiabola, our navigators sailed towards the north ; in the night between the '2'2ud and :23rd, they crossed the line, and on the 24th discovered a small and low uniniiabited island, in 1° 58' N. lat., 202° 28' E. long. Here they anchored for eight days, during which they obtained an abun- dant supply of iish, and about 300 fine green turtle, weighing, on an average, 90 or lOOH). each. On the 30th, an eclij)se of tiie sun was observed, on a little isle opposite a central lagoon. Here some cocoa nuts and yams were planted, and melon seeds sown. A bottle also was left contain- ing this inscri])tion : Georgius Tertius, Rex, 31 Decembris, 1777. vr ^ ( Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr. \ Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr. During the fishing for turtle, two seamen lost their way on the island ; one of them was absent a whole day, and the other was not found till the third day, when he was much exhausted for want of food, and especially of fresh water, not a drop being found in the island. From this place, which was named Christmas Island, our navigators proceeded on their course, on the 2nd of January, 1778 : and on the 18th, in lat. 21° 12' N., long. 200° 41' E., they came in sight of some high islands, which proved to be part of a new and interesting group, which Capt. Cook named the Sandwich Islands. On monday, the 19th, the ships approached an island, which was found to be named Atooi ; and some natives coming off in canoes, our people were agreeably surprised to find, that their language was, with ■ ^/imi 394 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. tm n M. ii.f little variation, that of Otalieite. They readily ex- changed fish, potatoes, and pigs, for nails. They cared not for beads ; but set a great value on iron, which they asked for by the names toe and hamaite. At the same time, their great astonishment at the sight of the ships, and the things on board, was a proof that no Europeans had visited them before. Some of them repeated a long prayer before they came on board, and were at first afraid of giving offence ; but afterwards they attempted to seize every thing they came near, and one man made off v.ith the butcher's cleaver, and gained the shore with his prize. Next day, the ships anchored in a convenient road, opposite a village called Wymoa, whe'*e there was plenty of fresh water. Lieut. Williamson had been previously sent with three armed boats, to examine the shore ; and at one place where he tried to land, the natives crowded upon him, attempting to seize oars, muskets, and whatever else they could reach ; so that he felt obliged to fire on them, and one man was unfor- tunately killed ; a circumstance which Capt. Cook did not hear of, till he had left the island. In the afternoon, the Captain went on shore ; and as soon as he reached the land, the whole of the assembled natives fell upon their faces before him, and continued to lie pros'upte, till he made signs for them to rise; when they presented to him a number of young pigs, and plantain leaves, with much ceremony, and long prayers. A friendly trad') for hogs and potatoes was tlien established, and the watering party filled their casks at a pool, without molestation. On Wednesday, the 21st, Captain Cook, with Messrs. Anderson and Webber, took a walk into ATOOI. 395 •eadily ex- ils. They le on iron, id hamaite. lent at the ard, was a em before. )efore they of giving \ to seize n made off the shore ;hored in a d Wymoa, er. Lieut, with three ind at one es crowded uskets, and hat he felt was unfor- Capt. Cook id. ; on shore ; he whole of aces before ill he made nted to him leaves, with A friendly established, iS at a pool. Cook, with a walk into the country ; and obsei-ved several morais, at each of which was a quadrangular pyramid of rude wicker-work, covered with a light grey cloth, which gave it a white appearance. Beside it was an elevated board, like the tvhatta of Otaheite, on which lay oblations of plantains ; some carv„-i pieces of wood were also set up, corresponding with the Tahitian unus ; and in an adjacent house were two wooden images, called Eatooa no veheina, or goddesses. The graves of some chiefs, were pointed out by the guide, being small square en- closures ; and close to each of them was the grave of a human victim. The Captain also discovered with deep regret, that cannibalism was not un- known here ; a v/ooden knife or saw, armed with shark's teeth, used for cutting up dead bodies, was among the articles purchased; and the natives acknowledged the use that was made of it, and affirmed that human flesh was savoury eating. The natives were only partially tattooed : the men had generally no clothing but the maro ; the women wore a short petticoat. Some of the chiefs had short cloaks of red and yellow feathers, resem- bling rich velvet ; and helmets of wicker-work covered with feathers, and adorned with an elegant crest. Some had their ha^v set up in a crest, while others had it twisted into numerous ringlets ; none had their ears pierced, but several wore necklaces of small strings and shells, and bracelets of shells, ivory, black wood, or hog's teeth. Their cloth was well manufactured, and prettily coloured ; their canoes were neatly built, but smaller than those of Otaheite ; their houses resembled oblong hay- stacks ; they had wooden bowls, and bottles of gourd-shells, neatly made, and often handsomely ..'«"» n|i| COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. 396 ^"^^^ , - ^ _^uieh were of painted : tb.ir ^^^^^^^^^^^01. ingenj^ f: the Resolution, m the hope o ^^.^^ Sace^ of anchorage m Atooi , ^^ ^ ^,,^ ^ISnted in this, as well ;- ''^^e Di^^^^^'^ """l Cer s ation, he ^vas jov ^.^ J^^^ ^^,h baffled lhe25tV, andbothships, ultci^be J, ^ ther wSh currents, anchored, on tne ^^ ^^^^^^ ^ Tsf^d, called Oneeheow. Her^;,i,es commenced a friendly trade, ^\^«P^f^|is and pieces of i on. vams, mats, and salt, ^o^^^^^,^ ,vith a part^, to existing '^"°"&e often condemns >« ^'^ ■^"f^^ *„ his honour, that ne uii _,„tive women, wmcii tag strokes to » P'^j"'%^h . ''-'cient '■ccuracy, I ; ^ ^ivpndv drawn wim < ,. '^^is iouraal the ONEEHEOW. 397 I were of ingenuity in baking r ,"f it to sea in I g a better ■ing disap- ) regain bis iscovery on Lucb baffled at anotber Lt Atooi, to commenced rs, potatoes, ces of iron, a party, to iding place; hore, on the owing to tbe e of tbe surt, This circum- ^ : for be bad r,om baving ■r.r tbe latter i se-ise, tben tp be noticed, ns in bis jour- women, wbicU -o repress. In fascinations ot add any finisb- s of wbicb 1 .ve jnt accuracy, 1 ibis journal tbe ntious manners, which could only serve to disgust those for whose information I write." Having found a better landing place, the Cap- tain went ashore on the 1st of February; and here, as at Atooi, he was received with much ceremony, and all who met him, during his walks, fell pro- strate before liim. This homage the natives pay to their own principal chiefs, none of whom were seen by Captain Cook. One of them, a youth named Tamahano, clothed from head to foot, came on board the Discovery at Wymoa, in a double canoe ; which, like that of Poulaho at the Friendly Isles, dashed over the small canoes that lay in the way, without trying to avoid them. He exchanged presents with Captain Clerke, but would not go below. The natives paid him, and his wife who accompanied him, the greatest reverence. After procuring more water and refreshments at Oneeheow, our navigators sailed hence, on monday, Feb. 2nd, leaving the rest of this new archipelago as a subject for future investigation. They had seen other three of the group, viz. Woahoo, Oree- houa, and Tahoora. The islands visited did not appear so densely peopled, as from their fertility jaight have been expected. CHAPTER XXII. American coast seen. Arrival in Nootka Sound: notices of the country, and its inhabitants. Resolution repaired. Voy- age northward : stormy weather. Prince William's Sound, and its inhabitants. Cook's River discovered, and examined : intercourse with the natives there. Progress westward. Russian Letters received. Oonalashka, and its inhabitants. Coast explored in advancing northward : natives seen. Deatli of Mr. Anderson. Arrival at the western extremity of America. The Tschutski. Voyage northward stopped by fields of ice. Sea-horses killed for food. Cape North. Coast of Asia. Return to the American coast. Norton Sound, and its inhabitants. Oonalashka revisited : Russian traders met with: their friendly conduct. Progress south- ward : return to the Sandwich Islands. Mowee, and Owliy- hee, discovered and -examined. Behaviour of the crew. Friendly trade with the natives. The ships anchor in Karakakooa Bay. Close of Capt. Cook's Journal. From the Sandwich Islands our navigators steered their course towards the north and east, in order to fall in with the coast of North America ; and at length, on Saturday, March 7th, the land of New Albion, so named by Sir Francis Drake, came in sight; the ships being then in lat. 44° 33' N., long-. 235° 20' E. The land appeared of a moderate height, diversified with rising grounds, and small hills, many of which were densely clothed with wood ; while in some parts the ground was covered with snow, an article which our mariners had not recently seen. Baffled with contrary winds and NOOTKA SOUND. 399 notices of cd. Voy- I's Sound, xamined : vestward. habitants, ves seen, extremity d stopped pe North. Norton Russian 3SS oOUth- nd Ow>y- the crew, finchor in 3 steered in order ; and at of New came in N"., long*, noderate id small led with ; covered had not nds and M foul weather, they advanced to the northward with difficulty, being sometimes driven out of sight of land ; but, on the 29th, they discovered an exten- sive sound, which was found to be called Nootka ; and anchored within the entrance, in lat. 49° 33' N., long. 233° 12' E. Here the country presented a different aspect, there being numerous lofty mountains, with snow-clad summits, while the in- tervening valleys, and the whole sea-coast, appeared like one vast and rich forest of pine and cypress. The coast was soon found to be inhabited ; and several natives, coming off" in canoes, approached the ships with much ceremony ; reciting long har- angues, singing soft and melodious songs, shaking a kind of rattles, and strewing handfuls of feathers, ana of red powder, towards their visitors. Their language had no affinity to the Tahitian, but seem- ed akin to that of Mexico. They had less vivacity than the South Sea Islanders, but had also less wantonness and violence, their behaviour being generally quiet and inoffensive. Yet they were no strangers to war and cruelty ; for among the articles which they afterwards brought to the ships for sale, were human skulls, and hands not quite stripped of the flesh, the rest of which they signifi- ed that they had eaten. No European ships had been here before, for the Spaniards who sailed along this coast in 1775, did not visit the people of Nootka Sound ; yet they were acquainted with commerce, and with the use of metals, and had tools and ornaments of iron, brass, &c., procured from the interirr. Two silver table spoons, probably Spanish, they sold to our people ; from whom they eagerly sought for iron and brass. The articles which they offered for [fti !; 400 COOK S THIRD VOYAGF. sale were chiefly skins, or furs, of tlie bear, wolf, fox, deer, lynx, martin, ermine, beaver, and sea otter ; garments made of these skins, llaxen man- tles, and woollen robes, such as they wore; their bows, arrows, spears, and other weapons; fisli- hooks, pieces of carved work, and sundry orna- ments : in exchange for which, they received knives, chisels, nails, buttons, &c. Tliey traded pretty fairly : yet were rather grasping, taking payment for the grass that was cut for the sheep and goats on board, and asking it even for wood and water. In several instances, however, they were guilty of pilfering ; and, having iron tools, they were rather dangerous thieves. Finding the trade with the ships lucrative, the people of the Sound wished to engross it to themselves ; and quarrelled, in some cases, with the numerous strangers who came hither in canoes, to visit the British. They also appeared to carry on a trade with more distant tribes, pro- curing with their British articles, fresh cargoes of skins and curiosities, to sell to the ships ; for which purpose, some of them were absent four or five days together. Here our navigators remained four weeks, during which the masts and rigging of the Resolution underwent a thorough repair ; the mizen-mast was entirely renewed, and much work done on the main-mast, and fore-mast : the adjacent forests supplying them with excellent timber. No tropi- cal fruits or roots could be got here ; but spruce beer was brewed for the crew, who were also sup- plied with excellent fish, which the natives sold on reasonable terms. The productions of the place, both animal and vegetable, corresponded, in many respects, with those of Europe. NOOTKA SOUND. 401 ear, wolf, and sea xen man- Di-e; their ons; fisli- dry orna- red knives, led pretty r payment and goats and water, e guilty of vere rather ; with the i wished to d, in some :ame hither ,0 appeared tribes, pro- cargoes of ; for which our or five 3eks, during Resolution iH-mast was one on the cent forests No tropi- but spruce jre also sup- tives sold on )f the place, ed, in many Although mucli engaged with the repairs of his ship, Capt. Cook now and then took a view of the Sound, which was found to be of great extent, and to contain several islands. Two villages were visited. At the most remote, a surly chief refused to let the strangers enter the houses; although some young girls, dressed in their best apparel, welcomed them with a song ; as was often done by parties of natives who visited the ships in ca- noes. At the nearest village, the Captain and his friends had a kind reception, and examined the the houses, and their contents, at pleasure : Mr. Webber, as usual, making drawings of every thing that was curious. The natives were of filthy ha- bits, both as to their persons, their dress, and their houses. Their persons were not handsome, and they besmeared their bodies with red paint. Their dwellings w,ve constructed of boards, sometimes rudely carved; and several families lived under one roof, their sleeping and sitting places being ar- ranged along both sides of the house, like so many different stalls in a stable, but with very low parti- tions between them. Their canoes, which had neither masts, outriggers, nor sails, were propelled with neat paddles. Their dresses were chiefly flaxen mantles, edged with fur ; and a kind of woollen blankets : sometimes they wore garments of skin. Their head was covered with a conical cap : but, on some occasions, they wore wooden vizors, or masks, curiously carved, to resemble the heads of eagles, wolves, porpoises, &c. "When drest in such masks, and fur cloaks, they looked like wild beasts, or men-monsters. In one of their houses, were two rudely carved images. When the ships left the Sound, the natives, in a 27 i \ IJJI 402 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. friendly way, attended to take leave of them ; some in canoes, and some on board. A chief, who had attached himself to Capt. Cook, receiving a part- ing present, gave him a beaver skin in return ; this being of considerable value, the Captain made him another present, upon which he insisted on giving him his beaver-skin cloak. Struck with his generosity. Captain Cook gave him a new broad sword, with a brass hilt ; which made him com- pletely happy. He and his people pressed their British friends to return again ; and promised to provide a stock of furs for them. In the journal of the voyage, there are many other important remarks concerning this people, and the productions of their country; and in these remarks, we see the science of Mr. Anderson combined with the accurate observation of Capt. Cook. It is worthy of notice, that here, as on the coast of New Holland, our navigator found the night tides considerably higher than those of the day. In the evening of April 26th, the ships sailed out of Nootka Sound ; and next day were over- taken by a tempest, during which the Resolution sprung a leak, which at first seemed alarming, but was afterwards kept under by one pump. The weather continuing stormy for some days, our navigators did not venture to approach the land till Saturday, May 2nd, when the coast, in latitude 56°, appeared considerably indented with bays and inlets: many lofty hills were seen covered with snow, while the plains were clothed with wood. Among the mountains observed, in ad- vancing northward was Beering's Mount St. Elias, in 60° 27' N. latitude. i ^ PRINCE MILHAMS SOUND. 403 2m ; some who had g a part- turn ; this ain made isisted on k with his lew broad him com- ;ssed their fomised to are many lis people, ;id in these Anderson »n of Capt. !, as on the found the [lose of the ships sailed were over- Resolution irming, but ump. The days, our ch the land ,, in latitude with bays een covered lothed with ved, in ad- mt St. Elias, On monday, the 1 1th, Capt. Cook landed on a small isle, which he named Kuye's Isle, abounding with pine-trees ; and left here a bottle, containing an inscription, and two silver pennies. Next day lie arrived at an extensive inlet, which he named Prince William's Sound : and here, in a spot named Snug Corner IJay, the leak of the Resolu- tion was effectually stopped. The inhabitants of the Sound, who came off to the ships in canoes, were quite a different race from tliose of Nootka Sound ; resembling, in their persons, habits, and dress, the Esquimaux and Greenlanders ; and hav- ing the same kind of canoes, made of seal sking stretched on a frame of slender laths. Some were large enough to hold twenty people ; others were adapted to hold one or two, having one hole, or two holes, to admit the persons of those who sat in them. Their dresses were neatly made, of the skins of seals, sea-otters, foxes, &c. : they had also water-proof cloaks, for rainy weather, formed of a thin membranous substance like bladder. They were more cleanly than the people of Nootka, and were fonder of beads and other ornaments; having not only the ears, but the septum of the nose, per- forated to receive various fancied decorations : nay, some of them had a long slit in the under lip, like a secondary mouth, which was also decked out with shells, bones, and beads. Some of their spears, knives, and arrows, were pointed with iron or copper, and some with bone ; and these, with all their other implements, were ingeniously made. In their first approach to the ships, the natives sung a kind of song, one held out a white garment, and another stood with his arms extended, like a cross ; but they would not come alongside, though ll 404 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. »' \ i 1.' 1 ; they accepted some presents thrown to them. On a suhse(|uent day, after some of tlie sailors had stopped into their hoats, a few of them ventured on hoard the Resolution ; and amonj^ others, a good lookins- chief, who wore a conical cap, orna- mented with blue beads. Several other visits were l)aid to both ships, and a friendly trade was car- ried on, the natives exchanging furs, weapons, &c., for beads, and pieces of iron. Yet they were not more honest than other savages, and made some very daring attempts at robbery ; for some of them went on board the Discovery, at an early hour, when they supposed the crew would be almost all asleep ; and drawing their knives, to frighten the watch on deck, began to plunder ; but when the crew, alarmed by the watch, began to come up, armed with cutlasses, the jjlunderers retired very deliberately in their canoes. They attempted, pre- sently after, to take a boat that was in custody of two men, from under the very guns of the Resolu- tion; a clear proof that they were ignorant of fire- arms, of which their visitors still left them in ignorance. Finding no passage towards the north in this extensive inlet, our navigators returned to the open sea, on Wednesday, May 20th, passing on the west side of an island opposite the entrance, which was named Montagu Island. Steering in a S.W. di- rection, they arrived next day at a larger inlet, now called Cook's Tnlet, the recesses of which they were, during several days, emi)loyed in exploring ; particularly in examining a large navigable river that flowed into it, since named Cook's River, the couree of which they traced upwards, as far as 6 1 ° 30' N. lat., 210° E. long.; where it was still a COOKS RIVKn. 405 em. On ilors had ventured others, a )aj), orna- 'isits were ; waH car- pons, &c., were not lade some \e of them arly liour, almost all igliten the ; when the come up, itired very npted, pre- custody of the llesolu- •ant of lire- 't them in jrth in this to the open on the west I, which was a S.W. di- larf^er inlet, f which they n exploring ; vigable river s River, the as far as 61° i was still a league in breadth, though more than 70 leagues from its entrance. Its course was nearly from north to south ; the tides in it were strong, and rose above 20 feet. On the west side was seen a lofty moun- tain, in which was a volcano. The natives who lived on tlie banks of tiie river, were of the same race as those of Prince William's Sound. Many of them visited the ships in canoes, and sold furs, salmon, and halil)ut, for beads, old clothes, and pieces of iron. Tlieir habitations were not visited, but Lieut. King landed on the east bank, to take formal [)ossession of the river and country; dis- playing the British flag, and burying a bottle con- taining an inscription and some English coins. Mr. liaw, who was of the party, bought a dog from the natives whom they met on shore, and shot it dead in their sight; which struck them with sur- prise and terror. On Saturday, June 6th, the vessels sailed from Cook's Inlet, and proceeded towards the south- west, in the direction of the coast; which was skirted with islands and rocks, with little interrup- tion, as far as to Oonalashka, where they anchored, on the 28th, in Samganoodha harbour, in lat. 53° 55', long. 193° 30.' In their progress thither, our navigators saw on the continent, a conical hill, with a volcano in its summit. The inhabitants of some of the islands which they passed, were found to be no stran.^ers to Europeans. At Schumagin's Islands, whicii were passed on the 19th, some natives, in canoes, came under the Discovery's stern, and one of them, taking off his cap, and bowing politely, delivered to Capt. Gierke a thin wooden case, which contained a Russian letter, or memorial, with the date 1778, and a reference to -t R t f 'I ■! 406 COOK S THIRD VOYAGK. > I V \ 1776. A similar document was presented to Capt. Cook at Oonalashka, ])nt he returneci it, with some presents ; knowinj^ that these letters must have been left by some Russian Commander, witli di- rections to ])ut them on board the next llussian ship that mi[,dit pass. Other natives met with in canoes, were observed to imitate Huropyan polite- ness, and one of them had on some European clothes. In approaching to Oonalashka, on the 2fith, our voyagers had escaped imminent danger ; they had cast anchor, on hearing the sound of breakers, in a fog; and when it cleared away, the perils through which they had pass were discovered. " 'J'wo elevated rocks," says Caj)tain, " were about half a league each from us, and about the same distance from eucli other. There were several breakers about them ; and yet Providence had, in the dark, conducted the ships through, between these rocks, which I should not have ventured in a clear day ; and to such an anchoring place, that I could not have chosen a better." A point of land adjacent, is aptly termed Cape Providence. The inhabitants of Oonalashka and the bouring islands, like those of Prince William's Sound, resemble the Elsquimaux and Greenland- ers, both in their persons, their dress, and their canoes ; while their manners are somewhat po- lished, through their intercourse with the Russians. They wear ornaments in their eare and nose, and some have them also in their lips. They usually take their fish and other food raw ; al- though the Russians have taught them the use of pots and kettles, which a few of them possess. Their houses are oblong pits, sunk in the ground. neigh- ^ =^M BRISTOL HAY. 407 to Capt. vith home list liuve with di- t llussiiin t with in an j)olite- Europcan 26th, our they had akers, in a Is through d. " Two vere about ; tlie same ire several ce had, in h, between ntured in a lace, that I >int of land nee. the neigh- i William's Greenland- 5, and their mewhat po- le Russians. and nose, lips. They d raw ; al- ii the use of em possess, the ground. % I about 50 feet long by 20 feet broad, with a roof of wood covered with grass and earth, appearing above ground like a dunghill. 'I'hey enter by ji hole at one end, where a post with steps cut in it serves as a ladder ; and there is a hole at tlie other end for a window. Different families live under one roof, arranged as in the dwellings at Nootka Sound ; and the accommodations here are e(|ually deficient in cleanliness. Tlie houses are heated, as well as lighted, with lamps. The people are remarkably quiet and inoffensive. They bury their dead in elevated situations, covering them with heaps of stones, like the ancient tumuli in our own country. Leaving Oonalashka on thursday, July 2nd, our navigatora proceeded to trace the American coast, which, from a point called Oonemak, near this island, makes a sudden turn towards the north-east. On the 9th, they arrived at the entrance of a large river, which was named Bristol River, in lat. 58° 27', long. 201° 55': and the bay into which it falls was called Bristol Bay. From hence the coast takes a N.W. direction, and their progress in ex- ploring it was much retarded by shoals and foggy weather. At a promontory, which was designated Cape Newenham, where the coast bends towards the north, Lieut. Williamson, by the Captain's direction, landed and took possession of the coun- try in the usual form, leaving a bottle containing an inscription. On the 21st, near 30 natives came off" to the ships in canoes ; and some trifles being thrown them, they ventured alongside, and traded with the seamen. They were of the same race as the people lately seen. On monday, August 3rd, when our navigators ( rn E-:i ! 'iii W I 408 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. svere in lat. 62° 34', long. 192°, they sustained a serious loss by the death of Mr. Anderson, surgeon of the Resolution ; who had long been lingering uader a consumption. On this painful occasion, the Captain, after noticing his skill and talents, remarks ; " The reader of this Journal, will have ooserved, how useful an assistant I had found him in the course of the voyage ; and had it pleased God to have spared his life, the Public, I make no doubt, might have received from him such com- munications, on various parts of the natural history of the several places we visited, as would have abundantly shewn, that he was not unworthy of this commendation." To perpetuate his memory, an island discovered that day, was named Ander- son's Island. His first mate, Mr. Samwell was made surgeon of the Discovery, and Mr. Law was removed into the Resolution. On the 9th, Captain Cook arrived at the western extremity of America, which he named Cape Prince of Wales, in lat. 65° 4C', long. 191° 45': but a strong north wind arising, with rain and mist, he stood '>ver to the westward, where land had been seen, wh'ch proved to be the continent of Asia; and here he entered a bay, which he named St. Laurence Bay, and landed with three armed boats, near a village of the Tschutski. About 30 or 40 men stood on a rising ground beside the village, each armed with a spontoon, a bow and arrows. Three of them approached the British, and taking oft' their caps, made a low bow, which the party returned ; but when the latter advanced, the na- tives retreated, till Captain Cook following them, alone and unarmed, persuaded them to stop ; when an interchange of presents took place, followed by ■>H T jstained a n, surgeon lingering occasion, d talents, will have found him it pleased I make no sucli com- ral history ould have iworthy of is memory, led Ander- mwell was r. Law was ;he western 'ape Prince 45': but a id mist, he I had been it of Asia; named St. rmed boats, ut 30 or 40 the village, md arrows, and taking h the party ed, the na- »wing them, stop ; when followed by THE TSCHUTSKl. 409 a friendly traffic. Some of them treated their visitors with a song and dance ; but all of them were very cautious, taking care to have their wea- pons near them. They were of a diffe^-ent race from the natives lately seen on the American shores, being stouter and taller: their clothing was of leather, or skins, well made ; and their quivers, and spontoons or spears, were handsomely adorn- ed. The latter were of iron or steel, of European or Asiatic workmanship. Their ears were bored, to receive ornaments ; but not their noses or lips. They set great value on knives, day with ha. Here [in traders, in resident ac, on the i presents articularly iluable in- )untry, the it of their wo written lim in ad- ! errors of liarge of a the way of intelligent the person low ska, he LJor Behm, 3o Captain !r of intro- Lamtschat- ka for refreshments, in returning to the north next spring. During the stay of the ships, several of the British officers visited their Russian friends at their settlement, at Egoochshac, and were kindly welcomed. They had a dwelling-house, two store- houses, and a small '^^loop ; and had a number of servants and dependants. On monday, Oct. 26th, the Resolution and Dis- covery sailed from Oonalashka, Capt. Cook propos- ing to revisit the 8anuv ich Islands ; and, after spending the winter months there, to return north- ward in the spring, by way of Kamtschatka. Next day, they encountered heavy squalls and contrary winds; and the weather continuing boisterous for several days, they were driven hither and thither, and were in danger of being wrecked among the rocks and isles near Oonalashka. During these gales, a disaster happened on board the Discovery : the main-tack gave way, killed one man, and wound- ed the boatswain, with two or three more. The sails and rigging were also much damaged. At length, on thursday, Nov. 26th, Mowee, one of the Sand- wich Islands, came in sight ; and, upon reiiching it, our navigators soon after observed Owhyhee, the largest of all the group ; and were surprised to see the summits of its lofty mountains, which are above 15,000 feet high, covered with snow. These two islands being new discoveries. Captain Cook resolved to sail round them, and to survey their extent n,nd position, and see what harbours and accommuuutions they afforded, before taking up his station at either. This service occupied several weeks, owing particularly to squally weather and contrary winds, which made it an arduous task to get round the south end of Owhyhee, where evi- M ' ., ' 4^ ( - ) ! i %' I ill 414 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. dent marks of devastation, produced by a volcano, were discerned. In this tedious circumnavigation, the Discovery was parted from the Resoluiion about a fortnight. In the mean time, both shij)s approached the shore, at intervals, to trade for pro- visions, whicli the natives brought off in canoes. On their first arrival at Mowee, Captain Cook issued orders for regulating the trade with the na- tives, with a view to ensure a proper supply of re- freshments during the stay of the ships. He also prohibited the admission of women on board, ex- cept under certain restrictions. He found liimself unable, however, to prevent them from entering the ships, in considerable numbers, even while sailing round the islands ; and many of them appeared to come with no other view than to make a surrender of their persons. It grieved him also to find, that the evil which he meant to prevent, had already been communicated at Oneeheow, and from thence had spread hither among the natives. Another circumstance now occurred, which serv- ed likewise to lessen his esteem for his crew. Having brewed some very palatable beer from sugar cane, he wished to introduce it into general use on board the ships, to save the spirits for a colder climate ; but when a cask was broached, not one of the crew would taste it : upon which he gave orders, that no grog should be served in either ship. He now learned for the first time, that they had almost resolved to refuse the spruce beer, at Nootka Sound : and he laments, in his journal, the backwardness of seamen to adopt any innova- tions on board, however saluUiry for themselves. " Few commanders," he adds, " have introduced into their shi|)s more novelties, as useful varieties i OWHYHEE. 415 1 volcano, avigation, tesuluiion )oth shij)s e for pro- ;anoes. tain Cook h the na- ply of re- He also (oard, ex- [l himself tering- the le sailing pearecl to surrender find, that 1 already m thence lich serv- lis crew, eer from ) general its for a lied, not i^hich he in either hat they beer, at journal, innova- mselves. reduced varieties of food and drink, than I have done. Indeed, few commanders have had the same opportunities of trying such experiments, or been driven to the same necessity of trying them. It has, however, been, in a great measure, owing to various little deviations from established practice, that I have been able to preserve my people, generally sj)eak- ing, from that dreadful distemper, the scurvy, which has perhaps destroyed more of our sailors, in their peaceful voyages, than have fallen by the enemy in military expeditions." It was on Wednesday, January 6th, 1779, that the Discovery rejoined the Resolution, off the south-west side of Owhyhee. Both ships had been well supplied with provisions, by friendly trade with the natives, who generally came oft' in their canoes unarmed. When the ships had for some days slowly advanced to the northward, along the west side of the island, they arrived, on Saturday the loth, at a bay named Karakakooa, where they were visited by not fewer than 1000 canoes, mostly crowded with people, and well laden with hogs, fruits, and roots. Into this bay the ships were taken to refit; and when they were anchored, Capt. Cook felt great satisfaction, in viewing the intere: Jng spot, and gazing on the surrounding multitude. " I had no where," he says, " in the course of my voyages, seen so numerous a body of people assem- bled at one place : for, besides those who had come oft' to us in canoes, all the shore of the bay was covered with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming round the ships, like shoals of fish. We could not but be struck with the singularity of this scene ; and perhaps there were few on board who now lamented our having failed in our endeavours 416 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. (' to find a Northern passa^^e homeward, last summer. To this disappointment we owed our having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to enrich our voyage with a discovery, which, though the last, seemed, in many respects, to be the most important that had hitherto been made by Euro- peans, throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean.' Such are the words with which our hero closes his interesting journal. Alas! how short sighted is man ! Little did he think, that the discovery in which he now exulted, would prove fatal to himself; and that the people, whom he viewed with such complacency, would become his destroy- ers! The details in the following Chapter, are chiefly extracted from the journal of Lieut. King, after- wards Captain King ; who wrote the last of the three volumes, in which the narrative of this voy- age is comprised. I. ist summer, tiavinsj it in nds, and to ich, thougfh be the most le by Euro- ific Ocean. " hero closes kort sighted le discovery ove fatal to he viewed his destroy- •, are chiefly King, afler- I last of the of this voy- CHAPTER XXIII. The ships incommoded with crowds of natives; clear'<;d by the chiefs. Thefts committed. Divine honours paid to Capt. Cook, as the god Orono ; sacrifice offered to him at the morau Reflections on the subject. Unfavourable circum- stances of our voyagers, a^ to moral and religious improve, ment. Liberality and constant attachment of the priests. Effects of the taboo. Employments of our people. Visits of King Terreeoboo ; his munificence. Friendly conduct of the natives ; dishonesty of many of them. Their athletic exercises. Death and burial of a seaman. Wood work and images of the morai purchased. Liberal parting presents to Captain Cook. The ships leave Karakakooa Bay : but receiving damage in a gale, soon return. Thefts commit- ted by the natives. Attack on the pinnace. The Discovery's cutter stolen. Measures taken for its recovery. Capt. Cook goes on shore to take the King on board: is opposed. News of the slaughter of a chief. Ferment among the natives : they threaten the Captain : he fires and kills one of theni. General attack on the party with stones, answered by a discharge of musketry. Fury of the natives : four marines killed. Death of Captain Cook. Unfortunate retirement of the launch which should have supported him. Treatment of his body by the natives. Negociations for recovering it. Insolence of the natives. Village of Kakooa burnt. Bones of Capt. Cook recovered and interred. I However gratifying it might be to our navigators to view the interesting groups that surrounded them, it was soon found to be extremely inconvenient to ^ have the ships crowded with these new visitors. 1 When hundreds of both sexes were on board, it was impossible to prevent pilfering on the part of the natives, or to maintain discipline among the 28 418 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. I 'H IP crew, who could not attend to the necessary busi- ness of the ships. To get rid of this incumbrance, recourse was had to the authority of the chiefs, two of whom, Pareea and Kaneena, attached them- selves to Captain Cook ; and these, at his request, soon cleared the vessels of such troublesome in- truders; who, at the command of their chiefs, jumped overboard : one fellow who linj^ered be- hind, was taken up by Kaneena in his aims, and cast into the sea. The chiefs, however, did not altogether put a stop to pilfering; for this good reason, that they themselves partook of the plun- der, and when any thing of value was missing, it was generally traced into their possession. Koah, a little old chief, sometimes introduced common persons as chiefs, with a view to get pos- session of the presents made to them. This Koah, who was said to be a priest as well as a warrior, seems to have been the first that honoured Capt. Cook with a kind of divine adora- tion. When he was conducted into the cabin of the Resolution, he approached the Captain with great veneration, threw over his shoulders a piece of red cloth, the sacred cloth in which the idols of this country were arrayed ; then stepping back a few paces, he made an offering of a small pig, which he held in his hand, while he uttered a prayer of considerable length. After dinner, when Captain Cook, with Messrs. King and Bayley, accompanied Koah on shore, four men carrying wands tipt with dog's hair, the sacred wands that were used in tabooing, marched before him, making loud proclamation respecting Orono: upon which, the whole crowd on the shore retired, except a few, who fell prostrate on the ground. The procession I i COOK WORSHIPPED AS A GOD. 419 isary bu^i- umbrance, the chiefs, ihed them- is request, lesome in- leir chiefs, igered be- aiins, and ;r, did not : this good f the plun- is missing, possession, introduced to get pos- iest as well le first that vine adora- le cabin of iptain with lers a piece the idols of )ing back a , small pig, e uttered a inner, when ,nd Bayley, en carrying I wands that lim, making upon which, xcept a few, e procession went on, as directed by Koah, to a large morai, on the south side of the village Kakooa, at the head of the bay. Here was a solid pile of stones, about 40 yards long, 20 broad, and 14 in height; with a flat paved top, surrounded by a wooden rail, on which were fixed the skulls of the victims sacrificed on the death of the chiefs. In the adjacent area were some buildings, and on one side were five poles above 20 feet high, supporting an irregular scaffold. On arriving at the morai, the party were led towards two large wooden images, to which Capt. Cook was presented by a tall young man with a long beard, named Kaireekeea, who chant- ed a hymn along with Koah. They were then led towards the five po'es, at the foot of which were twelve images, ranged in a semicircle, with a whatta, or altar, in the middle, on which lay a putrid hog, and und^r it pieces of fruits and roots. Koah, having placed the Captain under the whatta, took down the hog, and held it toward him ; then, mak- ing a long speech or prayer, he let it fall to the ground, and led him to the scaffold, which with some difficulty they mounted tog«!ther. And now approached, in solemn procession, ten men carry- ing a live hog, and a large piece of red cloth ; on drawing nigh, they fell prostrate ; and Kaireekeea meeting them, received first the cloth, and then the hog ; the former being handed to Koah, was wrap- ped round the Captain, while the latter was offered before him. The two priests now began to chant, sometimes in concert, and sometimes alternately; and after this service had continued for some time, Koah let the hog drop, when he and the Captain descended from the scaffold. He then led him to the range of images, at which he snap- I! I I! « I 420 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. ped his fingers, with some sneerin;^ words, as he passed ; till reaching the central figure, which was covered with red cloth, he prostrated himself, and kissed it, which the Captain at his desire also did. From thence he led the Captain to a sunk area in the morai, where he seated him between two wooden idols, Koah supportin"? his right hand, while Lieutenant King supportoci the left. At this time, a second procession of natives arrived, with a baked hog, a pudding, and some fruits ; and Kai- reekeea, heading the procession, presented the pig before Capt. Cook, with solemn chanting, to whicli the rest made responses, closing with the name Orono. The natives then sat down, fronting the Captain and his supporters; and while some cut up the baked hog, and prejared the vegetables, others engaged in brewing ava . and when the ava had been handed round, and tasted, morsels of the flesh were distributed also. Pareea fed Mr. King, and Koah tried to feed Captain Cook ; but tlie latter, remembering the putrid hog, could not swallow a morsel, especially as the old man did him the honour to chew it for him. — This closed the ceremony; and the Captain, after distributing some trifling presents among the natives, which pleased them much, returned on board, attended to the beach by the men with wands, and honoured by the prostrations of all whom he met. It is easy to see from this narrative, that the natives ranked our navigator among their gods; regarding him as the god Orono, a deified King and hero, belonging to the fabulous age of their chronology. This Orono (or Rono), as Mr. Ellis states, had, according to their traditions, set sail for a foreign country, in a singularly shaped canoe. L^ — ON COOKS RECRIVINO ADORATION. 421 da, as lie vliicli was nself, and J also did. ik area in ween two orht hand. At this fed, with a and Kai- ted the piff J-, to which the name •onting the 3 some cut vegetables, len the ava jvsels of the t Mr. King, .k ; but the could not Id man did -This closed distributing tives, which rd, attended nd honoured t. Lve, that the their gods; deified King ; age of their as Mr. Ellis ions, set sail ihaped canoe. He was honoured by annual games, as well as public worftliip ; and his return being expected, Captain Cook's arrival was considered as the fulfil- ment of their hoj)es. The people were taught that Orono was returned, and were invited to adore him. The idol clothed in red, was the image of Orono ; and the Captain was decked in red cloth, as his appropriate dress. It is much to be regretted, that in this instance, our illustrious countryman suffered his curiosity to overcome his sense of duty. However eager he might be, to know the religious rites of this people, he ought not to have shared in their idolatries. As a Christian he was bound, both to refuse adora- tion to their gods, and to reject it when ofl'ered to himself. He acted honourably at Otaheite, in con- demning the human sacrifice, which his curiosity induced him to witness ; and now, when he saw j)lainly, that these wretched idolaters mistook him for a god, he ought to have remembered the con- duct of Paul and Barnabas at liystra, on a similar occasion, and have shuddered at the thoughts of accepting Divine homage. If the strength of his curiosity may be pleaded as an excuse for allowing this idolatry for once, no such })lea can be advanc- ed on behalf of its repetition ; which took place a few days after, at the house, or temple, of Orono, with equal, if not greater solemnity ; not to speak of the more common tokens of adoration, almost daily offered to him by the priests or the people. It might, indeed, be thought good policy, to en- courage this veneration of his person, as a means of ensuring his safety, and the comfort of his men; but if such was his object, it completely failed. On the 17th of January, he first accepted adoration 422 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. '! i I ri and sacrifice, and alas ! on that day four weeks, he fell a sacrifice himself, and was torn in pieces ; and Koah, Pareea, and other natives, who were chief actors in the idolatrous scenes, bore a principal part in the bloody tragedy that followed. It remains to be noticed, as a further subject of regret, that the day alluded to was the sabbath, when the officers and crew, instead of participating in the idolatries of pagans, ought to have been em- ployed in the service of the true and living God. In perusing the narrative of this, as of the former voyages, the pious reader must have remarked, with sorrow, that the day of God, was rarely honoured by our mariners, above the other days of the week. With one solitary exception, no mention is made of their having divine service on that day, nor of their resting on it from their wonted l;il30urs or amusements. And here it may be stated as a sub- ject of complaint, that in the arrangements for these voyages of discovery, no provision seems to have been made for the moral and religious im- provement of the mariners. Had books of devotion been distributed on board, and a pious and intelli- gent chaplain appointed to each ship, or at least to each expedition, the officers and men, enjoying the advantages of public worship and spiritual in- struction, might have been fortified against the temptations by which so many were overcome, and warned of those deviations from duty into which they were apt to stray. Thus also, some prepara- tory steps might have been taken, for introducing the blessings of Christianity among the interesting tribes which our countrymen discovered. Such objects well deserve to be attended to by the Government of a Christian country, which owes THE TABOO. 423 weeks, he eces ; and were chief principal subject of e sabbath, rticipating > been em- iving God. the former irked, with f honoured f the week. )n is made day, nor of hibours or id as a sub- ;ements for in seems to iligious im- of devotion and intelli- , or at least !n, enjoying spiritual in- against the ercome, and into which me prepara- introducing 3 interesting ered. Such to by the which owes much of its high character and rank among the nations, to the ennobling influence of religion. They are objects closely connected with the effici- ency of the naval service ; for the most respectable Commanders of our times have publicly testified, that pious seamen are ever the most valuable ; the most faithful and trusty, the most patient and per- severing, the most tractable and obedient, the most bold and unflinching. These reflections are not meant to insinuute, that our excellent navigator had become indifferent to the interests of religion and morality. His journal shews that he often exerted himself, though with small success, to restrain his men from vice ; and it contains devout acknowledgments of Providence. Yet who that regards his memory, would not wish that, in the case mentioned, he had acted a part more becoming the Christian name ? The delusion of the natives, in taking him for their god Orono, produced immediate advantages to the British. They were allowed to select a field, for erecting their observatory and tents; and, to prevent intruders from disturbing them, the field was tabooed, the sacred wands being fixed round the wall that inclosed it. After this ceremony, no canoes durst land at the spot, no native would enter the holy ground, without special invitation, and no females could be prevailed on to approach. When presents were used to entice the latter, they invariably replied, that the Eatooa and the King would kill them, if they entered. At this very time, hundreds of females were annoying the peo- ple on board ; and when it was necessary to clear the ship, two or three hundred women were fre- quently made to jump into the sea at once, where 4 w HfW I i I f ■'■, I! 424 COOKS THIRD VOYAGF. they continued swimming and playing about, till they could again procure admittance. The party on shore, commanded by Lieut. King, received a daily supply of hogs and vegetables, more than sufficient for their subsistence ; while several ca- noes, loaded with provisions, were sent as punctu- ally to the ships. This was done by direction of Kaoo, the venerable high priest, grandfather to Kaireekeea ; and nothing was asked or expected in return, it was considered as the payment of a sa- cred tribute. The priests, indeed, continued tbe warm friends of the British during their stay; and, with the exception of old Koah, took no share in pilfering their property. The refitting of the ships, and the preservation of their stores, were at this time objects of much solicitude with our navigator: and while sailmakers, carpenters, and coopers, were employed on shore, as well as on board, in the necessary repairs; others were engaged, under his direction, in salting pork, to supply the ships during their protracted voyage. Hitherto it had been thought impracti- cable to cure meat in tropical climates; but the Captain, ever bent on useful discoveries, and im- pelled in this instance by necessity, made the ex- periment ; and by skilful management succeeded so completely, that some of the barrels of pork now pickled were brought home to England, and the meat, at the close of 1780, was perfectly sound and wholesome. King Terreeoboo, who had been from home, arrived on the 24th, when the whole bay was tabooed for more than two days ; no canoe visited the ships but by special licence, and no female was to be seen. On monday, the 25th, the King, ■ ; 'I •J 1 V f VISITS OF TERREEOBOO. 425 •bout, till he party ceived a lore than veral ca- } punctu- ection of father to :pected in it of a sa- in ued the itay; and, ) share in eservation J of much ailmakers, on shore, y repairs; in salting protracted t impracti- s; but the s, and im- ade the ex- succeeded els of pork gland, and ectly sound from home, le bay was anoe visited no female 1, the King, I with his wife and children, paid a private visit to the ships; and was fodid to be the same aged chi 'f who had gone on board the Resolution off Mowee, with some of his family and attendants, on the 30th of November; on which occasion, our people were not aware of his high rank. On tuesday, the 25th, he came off to the ships in great state ; he and his chiefs, dressed in their rich feathered cloaks and helmets, and armed with long spears and daggers, being in a large canoe ; followed by a second canoe, containing Kaoo and the other priests, with their gigantic and hideous idols, dis- play ed on red cloth; and a third canoe, filled with hogs and vegetables. The priests sung hymns with great solemnity, while the canoes paddled round the ships; but instead of going on board, the royal and sacerdotal companies made for the shore, and landed opposite the tents, where Lieut. King and the guards were ready to receive them. Captain Cook arrived presently, having followed them in the pinnace ; and when the royal party were seat- ed in the tent, the King rose up, and in a very graceful manner threw his own cloak over the Captain's shoulders, put a feathered helmet on his head, and a curious fan in his hand. He spread also at his feet five or six other valuable cloaks, and exchanged names with him ; while four large hogs, and a quantity of fruits, were brought by the attendants. A procession of priests advanced, fol- lowed by a long train of men, leading hogs, and carrying vegetables. Kaoo, the chief priest, who headed the procession, and having been from home with the King, was now for the first time intro- duced to Capt. Cook, brought a piece of red cloth, and wrapped it round his shoulders, and offered a 4 u II h i t I iln ,! ^ I' * 'ill ■: ■i . n 426 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. small pig in the usual form. Kaoo being then seated next the King, Kaireekeea and the other priests began their chanting, while Kaoo and the chiefs joined in the responses. The King and several of his retinue went on board with the Cap- tain; who arrayed his Majesty in a linen shirt, and girt his own hanger round him. When the King went on shore, the iaboo was removed at the Captain's request ; so far as to permit the natives to trade with the ships. The behaviour of the natives continuing friendly and inoffensive, the gentlemen of both ships could trust themselves among them at all times; they took frequent excursions into the country, and sometimes remained all night. The boys and girls, at the different villages, amused them with songs and dances ; and all whom they met with, were ready to serve them. When a large party, from both ships, went several miles into the country, to examine its productions, Kaoo sent provisions after them^ and gave orders to the inhabitants to assist them. They were six days on their excur- sion, but did not see the great volcano of Kirauea, so well described by Mr. Ellis, in his Tour through Hawaii, or Owhyhee. The bounty of Terreeoboo also continued ; and when Capt. Gierke, who had been in ill health, visited him for the first time, on the 28th, he received him very honourably, and gave him 30 large hogs, with a vast quantity of fruits and roots. Many, however, still annoyed our people with petty thefts ; particularly in drawing nails out of the boats and ships; which their expertness in swimming and diving enabled them to do, without much risk of detection. One person^ caught in ^ being then 1 the other )o and the King and h the Cap- inen shirt. When the ved at the the natives ig friendly hips could mes; they mtry, and boys and them with met with, I'ge party, e country, provisions ibitants to eir excur- arauea, so r through 'erreeoboo who had t time, on ably, and uantity of ople with ils out of jrtness in ), without aught in DEATH or WILLIAM WATMAN. 427 the action, was publicly flogged, as a warning to others. On the 28th, the natives entertained our people with a boxing match ; and such athletic exercises, in which they were much inferior to the Friendly Islanders, were repeated at other times. Captain Cook, on his part, entertained them with a dis- play of fire-works; at which they were greatly astonished. On thursday, Jan. 28th, died William Watman, an old gunner, long attached to the Captain, whom he had served in all his voyages. He had gone into Greenwich hospital with his beloved Captain, and quitted it with him, to follow his fortunes; and was now cut off by a paralytic stroke, only a few days before him. At the King's desire, he was buried at the moral; Kaoo and the other priests attended in silence, while the funeral ser- vice was reading ; when the grave was filling up, they threw in a dead pig, with some cocoa-nuts and plantains ; and for three nights following, they attended at the grave, sacrificing hogs, and chanting hymns and prayers, which continued till day-break. The ships being in great want of fuel, the Captain, through Mr. King, sought to purchase the wooden rails of the moral ; which the priests readily granted, without stipulating for any return. The sailors, in removing the wood, carried oflf the whole semicircle of images ; which Captain Cook observing, mentioned to Kaoo, who shewed no in- dignation at the sacrilege, but simply desired that the central image should be restored. As the resources of the country were beginning to be drained, by the vast supplies required for the ti I t 42S COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. ships, the natives made frequent inquiries about tlie time of their departure. They fancied that our people had come from a country where provisions had failed, for the purpose of filling their bellies ; and wondered that they had brought no women with them. They gave broad hints, that they had now got pretty well filled ; stroking the sides, and patting on the bellies of the sailors, whose looks were much improved during their stay : and telling them, that if they would return next season, they should then be feasted liberally. The King's bounty, however, was not exhausted ; for, having summoned his people to bring in their tribute, to enable him to give a parting offering to Orono, a public assembly was held, on Wednesday, Feb. 3rd, when the ships were about to sail ; and im- mense quantities of hogs, vegetables, and cloth, were brought before the King ; together with a large assortment of red and yellow feathers, and the hatchets and iron-ware which had been got from the British. Terreeoboo selected about a third part of the feathers and iron-ware for himself, with a few pieces of cloth ; and then presented the rest of the cloth, with all the hogs and vegetables, to Captain Cook and Lieut. King; who were astonished at the magnitude of the present, as it far exceeded what they had received even at the Friendly Isles. Mr. King was supposed to be the Captain's son ; and both Terreeoboo and Kaoo, who were warmly attached to him, begged that he might remain, and live with them. Early on thursday, Feb. 4th, the ships sailed out of the bay. Many natives accompanied them in canoes, in their progress northward ; and the King, as a last proof of regard for Capt. Cook, sent "•ar RETURN TO KARAKAKOOA. 429 iries about ed that our provisions eir bellies ; no women it they had sides, and 'hose looks and telling eason, they ^'he King's for, having r tribute, to to Orono, a sday, Feb. ,1 ; and inl- and cloth, her with a lathers, and d been got id about a for himself, i-esented the [ vegetables, who were resent, as it even at the ed to be the and Kaoo, ged that he ships sailed )anied them d ; and the ;. Cook, sent after him a large present of hogs and vegetables. Koah, who had changed his name to Britannee, accompanied the Captain to a large bay, called Toe-yah-yah. When the ships were oft" this bay, on the 6th, a stoim began, which continued, with intervals, for part :f three days; to the no small peril of the natives, who were sailing near them, some of whom were saved by the humane exertions of our seamen. In these gales, the fore-mast of tha Resolution gave way, which made it neces- sary to go into some harbour to repair it; and the adjacent bay affording no safe anchorage, while it was uncertain whether a good harbour could be found in the islands to leeward, our navi- gator decided on returning to Karakakooa ; little thinking, that this decision would lead to a fatal result. On the 11th, the ships regained their late an- chorage ; the fore-mast was taken on shore by the carpenters, the tents and observatory were again set up at the moral; and the priests, to prevent interruption, again tabooed the spot. The bay was found nearly deserted, the crowds lately assembled here having retired to their respective homes. Terreeoboo paid a friendly visit to Capt. Cook, on the 12th ; and his nephew, Maihamaiha, or Tamehameha, had previously visited Capt. Clerke, I and spent a night, with his attendants, on board the Discovery ; but some of the chiefs seemed less friendly than before. Pareea interfered unkindly in a bargain that was making for a hog; and on the 13th, several chiefs, and other natives, annoyed the watering party of the Discovery, and shewed some appearances of hostility ; on which, directions were given to the guard to load with ball. And f * • •^B#W^'"*S MP* " '*'^WI^ . . . I ■» I ii'' n 1 ] :t ■ 1 If [ » 430 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. now, the natives, having begun to reassemble in the bay, again crowded the ships, and watched for opportunities to pilfer. A fellow being detected stealing the armourer's tongs from the forge, on board the Discovery, was flogged, and sent out of the ship ; yet in the afternoon, another snatched the tongs and a chisel, with which he jumped over board, and swimming to a canoe, was paddled ashore. Pareea, who was then on board the Dis- covery, hastened ashore to recover the stolen goods. The thief, however, abandoning his plunder, fled into the country, and when the Master and a mid- shipman, who had been despatched after him in the small cutter, approached the shore, they met some natives in a canoe, bringing the articles back. The Resolution's pinnace, with five men, joining them, the Master thought his force sufficient to insist on having the thief surrendered, or the canoe that took him on shore. The thief had made his escape, and was pursued ineffectually, to a distance of two miles or more, by Capt. Cook, Lieut. King, and a marine ; who having observed that some muskets were fired after him from the Discovery, and hav- ing seen him land, supposed that he had carried off something of consequence. The thief being thus out of reach, the Master went to seize the canoe, which was hauled up on the beach ; when Pareea appeared, and claimed it as his property ; and his claim being disregarded, he seized the officer, and held him by the hair, on which one of the sailors struck him with an oar. The chief quitting the Master, now snatched the oar, and broke it in two across his knee ; and presently after, the multitude, resenting the insult offered to their chief, attacked the British with stones. The ^ QUARREL WITH THE NATIVES. 431 I semble in atched for f detected forge, on sent out of • snatched mped over s paddled I the Dis- len goods. mder, fled ind a mid- ;er him in they met icles back. n, joining nt, to insist canoe that bis escape, nee of two ing, and a ; muskets and hav- xd carried lief being seize the ch ; when property ; leized the ich one of The chief oar, and presently offered to kies. The latter, after a short resistance, were obliged to abandon the pinnace, and make their escape ; tlie men swimming to the small cutter, the two officers to a rock near the shore. The natives would have followed, and killed them ; but Pareea interfered, and checked their violence. The officers begged him to remain, till they got their boats off; but he refused, and left them. The Master was then pro- ceeding towards the tents for help; but Pareea meeting him, constrained him to return ; and the chief, finding the mob plundering the pinnace, beginning to pull her to pieces, and insulting the midshipn^an, who remained by her, again dispersed them ; and having thus saved the boat, desired the gentlemen to return on board, bringing them some of the oars which the crowd had seized. They were glad to escape in safety ; and Pareea soon overtook them in his canoe, and restored the mid- shipman's cap, and other articles, lost in the scuffle. He eagerly asked, if Orono would kill him for what had happened ; and being assured to the contrary, he joined noses, in token of reconciliation, and paddled over to the village of Kowrowa, or Kaavaroa, on the north-west side of the bay. When Capt. Cook returned, and was infonned of what had passed, he felt much uneasiness ; and observed, in going on board, " I am afraid that these people will oblige me to use some violent measures; for they must not be left to imagine, that they have gained an advantage over us " He immediately ordered all the natives to be turned out of the ships. Lieut. King posted a double guard at the observatory, where a few natives were seen to approach during the night; but they retired when they found themselves observed. Mournful 432 COOKS TIHRD VOYAGE. sounds, from the adjacent villujOfes, were heard hy the guards, supposed to be the lamentations of women. Notwithstanding the vigilance of our people, it was found in the morning of the 14th, that the Discovery's large cutter, which lay swamped at the buoy of one of her anchors, had been stolen by the natives; a theft which they committed, as was afterwards learned, at the instigation of Pareea. When apprized of the robbery, Capt. Cook resolv- ed, according to his usual plan, to endeavour to ^et the King on board, with a view to ensure the restoration of the cutter; and at the same time gave orders, that none of the canoes in the bay should be allowed to depart, that he might make reprisals on them, if necessary. About 7 o'clock, having sent Lieut. King, to take charge of the party at the tents, and try to still the minds of the na- tives there, he left the ship, with Lieut. Philips and nine marines, in the pinnace ; the crew of which were also armed, under the command of Mr. Roberts. Foreseeing that danger might arise, he took the precaution to order Lieut. Williamson, who commanded in the launch, to leave the station which he occupied at the north-west point of the bay, and come to support the pinnace. On his landing at Kaavaroa, with the marines, the Captain was received with the customary honours, the na- tives prostrating themselves before him. He was joined by Kaneena, his brother Koohowrooa, and other chiefs, who kept the crowd in order, and inquired if he wanted hogs, or other provisions. The King's sons, two boys, who had often been his guests in the Resolution, also joined him. When he said that he wanted Terreeoboo, he was con- ji. ! heard by itatioiiH of r people, it h, that the nped at the olen bythe ed, as was of Pareea. ;^!ook resolv- ideavour to » ensure the same time in the bay naight make lit 7 o'clock, of the party Is of the na- eut. Philips the crew of command of mi{?ht arise, Williamson, e the station point of the ,ce. On his the Captain ours, the na- m. He was lowrooa, and order, and r provisions, ften been his lim. When he was con- ATTEMPT TO GET THE KING ON BOARD. 433 ducted to his house ; and the Kinfy, havinjy been awakened from his sleep, came forth to meet him, and readily accepted his invitation to go on board. He according^ly went with the Captain towards the water-side, and his boys got to tlie pinnace, into which the youngest, Keowa, presently entered ; but when the King was within about 30 yards of the shore, his people, conscious of what had been done, crowded around to detain him, his wife Kanona besought him with tears not to go on board, and two chiefs taking hold of him, made him sit down. The Captain, loath to give up the point, urged him to go forward ; but the natives, alarmed at the firing of guns and musketry in the bay, by those who were detaining the canoes, crowded more closely around ; and Lieut. Philips, finding his men huddled close together in the crowd, led them out, with the Captain's consent, the natives opening a passage for them, and they were drawn up in a line along the rocks, close to the water's edge. The King, who was seated beside a double canoe, that had been hauled up hither, was again urged to rise and accompany his friend on board ; but the chiefs insisted on his staying : upon which, the Captain relinquished the attempt, observing to Mr. Philips, that he could not take the King on board by force, without the risk of killing a num- ber of the inhabitants. Hitherto the person of our navigator seemed in no danger ; but when he was quitting Terreeoboo, and walking towards the boats, a serious tumult arose among the crowd. A man arriving in great haste from the other side of thu bay, exclaimed, " It is war!" and informed the people, that Karee- moo, a chief, had been shot by one of the Dis- 29 /r vfmmtmmmtmummm'* i 434 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. M covery's boats.* Upon this, the anning of the natives, which had previously begun, became gen- eral, the women and children were sent oft', and the men proceeded to acts of insolence and hos- tility. The Captain had been annoyed by an old priest, who repeatedly offered him a cocoa-nut, with loud singing and noise : and now old Koah approached, with a pahooa, or dagger, under his cloak. Mr. Philips proposed to shoot him ; but, the Captain forbidding it, he only struck him with his piece, and made him retire. A man now seiz- ed the sergeant's musket, when a blow from the Lieutenant made him quit his hold. Another native throwing a stone at the Captain, the latter, who carried a piece with two barrels, fired one at him, loaded with small shot. The fellow, wearing a thick mat, was scarcely hurt, and brandished his spear, to dart it at Captain Cook, who, being still unwilling to take his life, knocked him down with his piece, instead of firing with ball. At this time, Mr. Roberts, not aware of the impending danger, suffered Keowa to be put on shore ; whereas, the detention of the prince might have operated pow- erfully in restraining the hostility of the islanders. And now, a man behind a double canoe, being seen in the act of darting his spear at the Captain; the latter fired his other barrel, loaded with ball, and killed another who was active in the tumult ; while the man who aimed at him was presently I shot by the sergeant. Upon this, the natives gave back a little ; but, being pushed on by those be- hind, returned to the charge, and poured a volley * According to Mr. Samweirs Narrative^ this intelligence arrived sooner ; but, on this point, Capt. King's statem^t is the most nataral. ing of the ecame f?en- !nt off, and ;e and hos- l by an old cocoa-nut, r old Koah , under his ; him; but, ;k him with ,n now seiz- w from the . Another a, the latter, fired one at ow, wearing indished his , being still I down with A.t this time, ding danger, whereas, the aerated pow- he islanders. :anoe, being the Captain; ed with ball, the tumult ; ^as presently natives gave by those be- ured a volley this intelligence g's statement is ! I. I ii ' : f 'Hfy ^ I' I m !; ► *:* hi >' I, M ^v*,. r 1 , '1 .1^ ;0 T m m: i ''Ai DEATH OF THE CAPTAIN. 435 m ffvS JIfi," l1 ill \/ \\ i r 1 \\\!f^ .0 w4 , 1 m ") kv ^Ha r -1 ^^K m ^S lb .1^ of stones among the marines, who, without waiting for orders, returned it with a discharge of musketry, while the seamen in the boats Lcgan also to fire. At this Captain Cook expressed his astonishment, and waving 'is hand, called to the boats to cease firing, and to pull in. His voice, on account of the noise and confusion, was indistinctly heard ; and while the pinnace came close in, Lieutenant Williamson, with the men in the launch, through some strange mistake or neglect, moved further off, at the very moment when their support might have saved their brave Commander, and the ma- rines. The natives now rushed on with dreadful yells, and four of the marines, who had no time to reload, fell a sacrifice to their fury; other four were wounded, including Lieutenant Philips, who saved his life by shooting his antagonist; and, with the surviving marines, got into the pinnace. The Captain, who was left alone on the rock, was making for the pinnace ; when, a chief, named Karimano, following him, after some hesitation, struck him on the back of the head, with a large club, and then precipitately retreated. Stunned by the blow, he staggered a few paces, fell on his hand and one knee, and dropped his musket. As he was rising, a wretch, called Nooah, stabbed him in the back of the neck with an iron dagger, and he fell into a bite of water about knee deep. Here the natives, crowding upon him, tried to keep him under; but struggling powerfully with them, he got his head uj), and cast a look towards the pinnace ; which was only five or six yards off, yet was un- able, it seems, to save him. The natives again pressed him down, in deeper water : he was able, however, to get his head up once more, and turn- 4 1. .!♦ Ill t www 'i- i i ill: H I' • li I ,( ! I I' .1 ,J', I : !i 436 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. ing to the rock, tried to cling to it, when another blow with a club deprived him of life. They then hauled hirn up lifeless on the rocks, and snatching the dagger from each other's hands, shewed a sav- age eagerness to have a share in his destruction. The folal event occurred about 8 o'clock, only an hour after he had landed. Such was the lamentable end of the most illus- trious of navigators. It is painful to think, that he who had done so much to preserve the lives, and increase the comtorts, of the savages of the Pacific, should thus fall by their hands ; and that some of the improved implements with which he furnished them, should be employed to destroy him. Ka- neena had purchased a large dagger, for a hog, only the day before ; and this dagger was probably used in the bloody tragedy. It is still more de- plorable to reflect, that a Commander who had made it his constant study to promote the welfare of his officera and crew, should have been deserted by some of them in the hour of peril, and left to perish before their eyes in the hands of barbarians, when a vigorous effort on their part might perhaps have saved him. Even the recoveiy of his lifeless body was an object worth contending for; and five young midshipmen, who arrived in a small boat at the close of the fatal business, saw the beach almost entirely deserted by the natives, who had been dispersed by the fire of the boats, and some shots from the Resolution ; so that the body might have been recovered without much difficulty : yet the Lieutenant returned on board, without making the attempt. Whether the late order for stopping their grog, had somewhat alienated the aflfections of the seamen from their otherwise beloved Cap- another ley then latching id a sav- truction. only an 3St illus- , that he ves, and Pacific, some of iirnished m. Ka- r a hog, probably nore de- w\io had e welfare deserted d left to rbarians, perhaps is lifeless and five 1 boat at h almost ad been me shots ght have yet the king the stopping iffections ed Cap- TREATMENT OF HIS BODY. 437 tain ; or whether they were seized with a temporary panic, confusion, or infatuation, amidst scenes so appalling ; the fatal result will ever be^remembered with the most poignant grief. When their paroxysm of rage had spent itself, the natives themselves, as Mr. Ellis relates, bewail- ed the foul deed which their hands had done. Their ideas of the Captain's divinity were 'indeed lowered ; for when they saw his blood, and heard his groans, they said, " No, this is not Orono :" yet they still regarded him as a chief of the first rank. His body was taken from the beach, and deposited in a cave above the village, from whence it was re- moved to an adjacent height, and there disposed of in the same way as the body of a native chief. It was cut in pieces, and the flesh, after being se- parated from the bones, was burnt ; the bones being reserved as objects of veneration. This kind of funeral, however barbarous in our view, they re- garded as the most honourable. The spot where the body was burnt, is described by Mr. Ellis, as a small inclosure, about 15 feet square, with a kind of raised hearth in the midst, where fragments of charcoal still remain. But the natives had losses of their own to la- ment. Seventeen were slain at Kaavaroa, among whom were Kaneena, Koohowrooa, and other three chiefs; and at the observatory, where the com- mencement of a hostile attack made it necessary to fire on the assailants, eight more were shot, including three person^; of rank. In that quar- ter, a truce was agreed to, through the medium of the friendly priests; and the firing ceased, on condition that our people should not be inter- rupted, in removing the observatory, tents, sails, I J. .if ^\ 438 COOK S THIRD VOYAGE. U i ifUi W \ I '1 i u and mast; which were dow safely conveyed on board. Many of the officers and men were eap^er to revenge the death of their beloved Commander, by an immediate attack on the natives : but, on vari- ous accounts, more moderate counsels prevailed. Lieut. King was sent, with some armed boats, to Kaavaroa, to demand the dead bodies, especially that oi Capt. Cook ; and to threaten the islanders with vengeance, in case of a refusal. Perceiving that the natives expjcted a hostile attack, he left the armed boats, and advanced alone in a small boat, with a white flag in his hand ; at the sight of which, the people raised a shout of joy, and ex- tending their arms, invited him on shore. Koah immediately swam off to the boat with a white flag also; and although little confidence could be placed in this treacherous chief, he was employed to communicate the demand to the other chiefs, and made fair promises of restoring the bodies. Koah visited the ships frequently on the 15th, but alleged various excuses for delaying to fulfil his word. In the evening, two persons came in a canoe, from Kaoo and the priests, and delivered up a portion of the flesh of the Captain, which had been all- ited to them for a religious use ; and they statec that the rest was burnt, the bones remaining wrdi the chiefs. They shed many tears for the fatia deed, asked when the Orono would come axaia, and what he would do to them on hi* return. Being asked if any part of the bodies had been eaten, they expressed their horror at such an idea: by which it appeared, that Capt. Cook was mstaken, in supposing, as noticed in p. 395, that tliese islanders avowed themselves cannibalb. These men INSOLENCE OF THE NATIVES. 439 yed on japcer to uler, by on vari- evailed. loats, to pecially slanders rceivin^' he left a small sight of and ex- Koah hite flag e placed oyed to iefs, and , Koali ; alleged )vd. In 36, from portion all- tted that T the UkL deed, L, and Being n eaten, dea: by istaken , It th»^se ese men t( cautioned our people to beware of Koah, who was not their friend. The forbearance of the British encouraged the insolence of the natives, some of whom had the audacity, to wave in triumph on the beach, the sword, the scabbard, the hat, and the clothes, of the illustrious dead. This insult inflamed the rage of the crew ; and Captain Gierke, who had taken the command of the Resolution, while Lieut. Gore was made Captain of the Discovery, gave orders to fire some great guns at the people on the shore. Soon after, Koah came off in great haste, to prevent fur- ther hostility ; stating that some people had been killed, and among others, Tamehameha, the King's nephew. It turned out, however, that this chief was only woundinl. He lived to become King of Owhyhee, and of all the Sandwich Islands ; and filled the throne in 1792, when Capt. Vancouver (now a midshipman in the Discovery) visited and explored these islands, as well as the American coast; carrying on the researches in these seas, which his great Commander had so well begun. Tamehameha had a glorious reign of 30 years, and was succeeded, in 1819, by his son Tamehameha, or Rihoriho, who, with his Queen, visited London, where they both died of the measles, in 1824. Soon after Koah's arrival, two boys swam ofF from the morai, towards the ships, having each a loniT spear in his hand ; and after lamenting the vleath of Orono, in a plaintive song, they came on board the Discovery delivered their spears, and then returned on shore. Next day, which was Wednesday, the 17tb, when a large party was taking in water for the ships, the natives harassed them much by throwing stones : 1:1 !jl m if' i I 440 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. ," 1 \m upon which, orders were given to burn down a few straggling houses near the well, where the assail- ants were sheltered. In executing these orders, our people were hurried into acts of unnecessary cruelty and devastation. The whole village of Kakooa was set on fire ; and several of the natives "vVere wantonly sliot, in making their escape from the flames. Even the dwellings of the priests, the steady friends of the British, perished in the con- flagration, with much valuable property, a great part of which had been received as presents from the ships. After this disaster, Kaireekeea, and 15 or 20 boys, came towards the shore, in a proces- sion, bearing in their hands green boughs, plan- tains, and pieces of white cloth. Being taken, at his desire, on board the Resolution, this young priest stated the losses of himself and his brethren, and justly expostulated with the British on their unkindness and ingratitude. Doleful cries and lamentations had been heard on shore every night, from the commencement of hostilities, and this night they were more dreadful than ever. In the morning of the 18th, Koah came off again, and approached the ship's side, singing his song, and offering Lieut. King a hog and some plantains ; but his offering was now rejected, and he was ordered never to appear again without Captain Cook's bones. In the evening, Eappo, a chief of liigh rank, came with presents from Ter- reeoboo, to sue for peace. The presents were ac- cepted ; but he also was assured, that war would continue, till the Captain's remains were delivered up. The natives, now made sensible of the power of their visitors, brought off to them many presents of fruitH and roots. At last, after some fuillier 1 It HIS FUNERAL. 441 vvn a few lie assail- e orders, lecessary illage of e natives ipe from iests, the the con- a great ntb fioiii , and 15 I proces- is, plan- taken, at s young t)rethren, on their lies and ry night, ind this ;ame oft' ging his id some ted, and without iiappo, a om Ter- were ac- r would 'elivered e power presents fuilher messages had passed between Captain Gierke and Terreeoboo, a solemn j^rocossion came to the beacli, in the forenoon of the 20th, i)rece(lcd by two drummers and a white flag, and after depositing some presents, retired ; when iia})po a})peared in his long feathered cloak, bearing in his hands, with great solemnity, the bones of the illustrious Cap- tain, wrapped up in new cloth, and covered with a cloak of black and white feathers. Capt. Clerke, who judged what he was bringing, went oft' to re- ceive his i)recious charge. The parcel contained the two hands entire, most of the head, with the bones of the arms, thighs, and legs. Some more bones were brought next morning, the 21st, by Eappo and the King's son; with some articles that belonged to the Captain. They were directed to taboo all the bay, which they did on going ashore ; and in the afternoon, the remains of the great navigator, having been put into a coftin, were com- mitted to the deep, with the funeral service, and military honours ; amidst the tears and sobs of the officers and crew, whom he had so long a-id so honourably commanded. It was understood, that the rest of Capt. Cook's bones had been burnt; but it has since been ascer- tained, that all the bones of the trunk, with the rest that were missing, were preserved by the na- tives as sacred relics, and deposited in the temple of Rono, where they received divine honours, as part of that god. These relics, contained in a basket covered with red fenthers, were annually carried round by the priests, to other temples, to collect offerings for the service of Rono. Mr. Ellis could not ascertain where these remains were de- posited, at the abolition of idolatry, in 1819. II CHAPTER XXIV. Sequel of the voyage. Its publication. Cook's death univer- sally lamented. His high character acknowledged, and his memory honoured. Respect shewn to his family. Notices of his relations. Monuments erected to his honour. Happy results of his Voyages. To complete the history of our lamented navigator, it will be proper to glance at the sequel of the voyage, in which he was prematurely cut off. — On the day after his funeral, the ships left Owhyhee, and passing other islands of this group, anchored at Atooi, on monday, March 1st. Here the natives were disorderly, and interrupted the watering par- ties ; owing to the absence of the principal chiefs, who had been engaged in a war with the people of Oneeheow, on account of the goats left by Capt. Cook. The poor goats, which had increased to six, were killed during the struggle. Quitting the Sandwich Isles, on the 15th of March, our voyagers proceeded towards Awatska Bay, and anchored there, in the harbour of Petro- paulowska, on the 29th of April. In their pro- gress thither, they ascertained the nonexistence of lands said to have been seen by John de Gama. At Petropaulowska, where a dangerous leak in the Resolution was stopped, they met with poor ac- commodations, but kind treatment. Capt. Gore, Lieutenant King, and Mr. Webber, paid a visit to Major Behm, at Bolcheretsk, the capital of Kamts- chatkaj travelling partly in boats, and partly in f \¥ SEQUEL OF THE VOYAGE. 434 ith univer- ed, and his Notices r. Happy avigator, 1 of the off.— On 'whyhee, mchored natives ing par- \l chiefs, )eople of by Capt. ;d to six, 15th of Awatska .f Petro- leir pro- tence of ; Gama. ,k in the poor ac- t. Gore, I visit to Kamts- artly in sledges drawn by dogs. At a Russian oatrog, or village, on their way, they met with an old pewter spoon with London stamped on the back ; an inci- dent which awakened many pleasant thoughts, anxious hopes, and tender remembrances. Major Behm and his lady, with the officers and mer- chants at Bolcheretsk, treated them with uncommon politeness, hospitality, and bounty. The Major returned with them to the ships, furni hed them with 20 bullocks, 90001b of flour, and quantities of tea, sugar, fish, &c. ; for all which he would take no payment, alleging that the Empress would feel obliged by his doing every thing in his power to supply the wants of navigators, who were employed for the general advantage of mankind, and were entitled to the privileges of citizens, in whatever country they might be thrown. Besides these pub- lic stores, he gave private presents to the officers and meii, to the value of £200; and Madame Belim sent butter, honey, rice, figs, &c. for Capt. Clerke ; who also, on account of his declining health, re- ceived daily supplies of bread, milk, butter, and fowls, from a kind priest at Paratounca. Our voy- agers testified their gratitude to the utmost of their power; shewing the generous Governor the charts of their discoveries, presenting him with maps and prints belonging to Cook's second voyage, and a large assortment of the curiosities which they had on board; sending his lady a dozen or two of Cape wine, and presenting a watch to his son, and ear- rings to his daughter. The gratitude of the sea- men must not be forgotten. The Major presented them with above 40011) of tobacco, as the gift of himself and his garrison ; and the noble-minded fellows were so struck with the liberality of their ,|;i :;p - c 444 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. kM 'I ,1 : Russian friends, that they {generously desired their grog to be stopped, that the brandy, which was here scarce and valuable, might be presented, in their name, to the garrison of IBolcheretsk ! Capt. Gierke, and the rest of the officers, did not suffer them to lose much by this spontaneous sacrifice, supplying them with rum, in lieu of the small quantity of brandy which the Major was prevailed on to accept. A circumstance occurred at this time, affording a pleasing illustration of the advantage of treating savages with kindness; being a result of the friend- ly visit which Captain Cook paid ti the Tschutski. This warlike tribe, the Russians had repeatedly, but ineffectually, attempted to subdue, or to bring into alliance with them : but what they had long tried to effect by force. Captain Cook had quickly accomplished for them by mildness and go( 'Iness. The savages, not knowing any other Europeans, had taken the British for Russians; and, impressed with the friendly conduct of their visit > '/ *m w *« ^^ N^ v^ /^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIS7MMN STREET Wt:';>JJ,N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 * f/. ■^ «? » ■PPipPillWIWgiWWi mm IH 1 1 i^ r \ . f "l . 446 COOKS THIRD VOYAGE. St. Paul, on the 24th, Captain Gierke was buried there, on the 29th ; the worthy priest who had kindly ministered to his wants, attending the funeral. An escutcheon, in honour of the deceas- ed, was pu^ up in his church ; which contained pictures ol t. Peter and St. Paul, with rich dra- peries of solid silver plates, presented by Behring. Capt. Gore now removed into the Resolution, and Lieut. King was made Captain of the Discovery. Leaving Awatska Bay, on the 9tli of October, our navigators ran along the coast of Kamtschatka, the east side of the Kurile Isles, and the Japan Islands, and reaching the Chinese coast at the end of November, anchored off Macao, on Wednesday, Dec. 1st. Here, and at Canton, which Capt. King visited, the officers and crew got a good market for their furs, which brought them above £2000 : so that the men were eager to return to Cook's River, for another cargo, to make their fortunes. Hearing of the progress of the war in Europe and America, the officers put the ships in trim for fighting; at the same time resolving to take no prizes, but observe a strict neutrality, as they understood that none of the belligerents would molest them. They sailed from Macao, January 12th, 1780; spent a week at Pulo Condore, where they bought some buffiiloes ; watered at Prince's Island, in the Straits of Sunda ; and arrived at the Cape of Good Hope, April 12th. From thence they set sail for England, on the 9th of May ; and arriving off the west coast of Ireland, they steered to the northward, and anchored at Stromness, Aug. 22nd. They afterwards arrived safe at the Nore on the 4th of October, after an absence of 4 years, 2 months, and 22 days; during which the ^1 PUBLICATION OF THE VOYAGE. 447 kS buried ,vho had ling the e deceas- ontained rich dra- Behring. tion, and scovery. October, itschatka, le Japan t the end idnesday, ipt. King d market e £2000 : ;o Cook's fortunes, irope and trim for > take no as they ts would January »re, where Prince's ^ed at the m thence lay ; and jy steered tromness, afe at the enci of 4 n^hich the ' Discovery did not lose a single man by sickness, and the Resolution only five. Such was the salu- tary effect of Capt. Cook's regulations for preserv- ing health. A Journal of the voyage, in one volume 8vo, hastily got up, and abounding with inaccuracies, was published early in 1781 : but, owing to the time required for engraving 86 plates, furnished at the expense of Government, the authorised nar- rative of the Voyage to the Pacific Ocean did not appear till the summer of 1784; when it came forth in 3 volumes, 4to, with an admirable Intro- duction by Dr. Douglas, (afterwards Bishop of Carlisle, and Salisbury) ; price £4 14s. 6d. Not- withstanding this long delay, such was the un- precedented eagerness of the public to obtain these precious volumes, that on the third day after pub- lication, not a single copy remained with the book- seller. Some who were disappointed, offered 6, 8, and even 10 guineas for a set. A second edition was published next year. The volumes, so justly esteemed, were read with a painful interest; the public being sensible, that the discoveries which they record, were purchased at a price too dear. A separate narrative of the Captain's death, which has been made use of in the foregoing chapter, was published by Mr. Sam well. Surgeon of the Discovery. The news of our great navigator's death reached the Admiralty on the 1 1th of January, 1780, in a letter from Capt. Clerke, sent from Kamtschatka with Capt. Cook's journal, through the hands of Major Behm: but the particulars were not fully known till the arrival of the ships. The heart- rending tidings produced universal grief: he was 30 f I i ■ -^.. If 448 LIFE OF COOK. lamented, not only as one of his country's brightest ornaments, hut as the common friend of mankind. Many tears were shed, and many pens were em- ployed, to express the bitter sorrow felt on this occasion : while the high encomiums bestowed on his character, genius, and achievements, marked the extent of the loss sustained by Britain, and by the world. As the most prominent features of his character have been already delineated in this sketch of his life, it is scarcely necessary to exhibit them here ; yet it may be proper to glance at one or two of those pictures of his moral and intellectual worth, that were now drawn. That of Mr. Samwell may be selected, as furnishing also an accurate descrip- tion of his pei*son. "The character of Captain Cook will be best exemplified by the services he has performed, which are universally known, and have ranked his name above that of any navigator, of ancient or of modem times. Nature had endowed him with a mind vigorous and comprehensive, which in his riper years he had cultivated with care and indus- try. His general knowledge was extensive and various ; in that of his own profession he was un- equalled. With a clear judgment, strong mascu- line sense, and the most determined resolution, — with a genius peculiarly turned for enterprise, he pursued his object with unshaken perseverance : — vigilant and active in an eminent degree ; cool and intrepid among dangers ; patient and firm under difficulties and distress ; fertile in expedients ; great and original in all his designs ; active and resolved in carrying them into execution. These qualities rendered him the animating spirit of the expedi- "j HIS HJGH CHARACTER. 449 brightest [ mankind, were em- it on this stowed on i, marked in, and by 1 character itch of his hem here ; or two of ual worth, nwell may te descrip- iU be best performed, ranked his ncient or of him with a hich in his and indus- tensive and he was un- rong mascu- esolution, — nterprise, he everance : — ee ; cool and . firm under dients; great and resolved lese qualities f the expedi- tion : in every situation he stood unrivalled and alone ; on him all eyes were turned ; he was our leading star, which, at its setting, left us involved in darkness and despair." " His constitution was strong ; his mode of liv- ing temperate- He was a modest man, and rather bashful ; of an agreeq,ble lively conversation, sensi- ble and intelligent. In temper be was somewhat hasty, but of a disposition the most friendly, be- nevolent, and humane. — His person was above six feet high ; and, though a good-looking man, he was plain both in address and appearance. His face was full of expression; his nose exceedingly well shaped ; his eyes, which were small, and of a brown cast, were quick and piercing; his eye- brows prominent, which gave his countenance al- together an air of austerity." " He was beloved by his people, who looked up to him as to a father, and obeyed his commands with alacrity. The confidence we placed in him was unremitting; our admiration of his great talents unbounded ; our esteem for his good quali- ties affectionate and sincere." To this testimony of Mr. Samwell, which is not quoted at full length, may be added that of a gentleman, who at one time seemed his adversary. Dr. Forster, in his History of Northern Voyages, after a brief account of the Captain's death, de- scribes his worth in the following terms : " Thus fell this truly glorious and justly admired navi- gator. If we consider his extreme abilities, both natural and acquired, the firmness and constancy of his mind, his truly paternal care for the crew intrusted to him, the amiable manner with which he knew how to gain tl;iie friendship of all the rm U mil it' if. . 1*1 m 450 LIFE OF COOK. savaf^e and uncultivated nations, and even his conduct towards his friends ind acquaintance, we must acknowledge him to have been one of the greatest men of his age, and that reason justifies the tear which friendship pays to his memory." Many were the tributes of respect which the poets of his country offered on this occasion. One of the earliest was Miss Seward*s Elegy; from which the following pathetic lines, relating to his bereaved widow, may be extracted as a specimen. But ah I — aloft on Albion's rocky steep, That frowns incumbent o'er the boiling deep, Solicitous and sad, a softer form Eyes the lone flood, and deprecates the storm. Ill-fated matron I — for, alas! in vain Thy eager glances wander o'er the main 1 'Tis the vex'd billows, that insurgent rave, Their white foam silvers yonder distant wave, 'Tis not his sails ! — thy husband comes no more ! His bones now whiten an accursed shore ! — Retire ; for hark ! the sea-gull shrieking soars, The lurid atmosphere portentous low'rs ; Night's sullen spirit groans in ev'ry gale. And o'er the waters draws the darkling veil, Sighs in thy hair, and chills thy throbbing breast; Go, wretched mourner ! weep thy griefs to rest ! The Moral, an Ode, by Miss Helen Maria Wil- liams, is another piece that deserves to be noticed. After describing the chai-ms, and the funeral rites, of Otaheite, and the philanthropy of Cook, whose grave the nations ought to " dress in lavish flow- ers," the fair author thus concludes : — Ah no 1 — around his fatal grave No lavish flowers were ever strew'd, No votive gifts were ever laid — His blood a savage shore bedew'd i His mangled limbs, one hasty prayer, even his ance, we le of the justifies lory." hich the Ion. One fy from inj? to his )ecimen. re ! rs, east; est! " klaria Wil- de noticed, neral rites, ook, whose avish flow- HfS MEMORY HONOURED. 451 One pious tear by friendship paid, Were cast upon the ragin(|^ wave i Deep in the wild abyss he lies, Far from the cherish'd scene of home ; Far, far from Her whose faithful sighs A husband's trackless course pursue ; Whose tender fancy loves to roam With him o'er lands and oceans new : And gilds with Hope's deluding form The gloomy path-way of the storm. Yet, Cook ! immortal wreaths are thine ! While Albion's grateful toil shall raise The marble tomb, the trophied bust, For ages faithful to its trust ; While, eager to record thy praise, She bids the Muse of History twine The chaplet of undying fame, And tell each polish'd land thy worth ; The ruder natives of the earth Shall oft repeat thy honoured name : While infants catch the frequent sound, And learn to lisp the oral tale, Whose fond remembrance shall prevail Till time has reached his destin'd bound. Had our limits permitted, extracts might also have been given from an Ode by Mr. Fitzgerald, and some verses by the late Miss Hannah More : but the following lines from Cowper must not be omitted : When Cook — lamented, and with tears as just As ever mingled with heroic dust, Steer'd Britain's oak into a world unknown, And in his country's glory sought his own, Wherever he found man, to nature true, The rights of man were sacred in his view; He sooth'd with gifts, and greeted with a smile. The simple native of the new-found isle ; He spurn'd the wretch, that slighted or withstood t t m 1 it •iWUPI KV!l«(i«*a 45^ LIFE OF COOK. The tender argument of kindred blood, Nor would endure, that any should control His freeborn brethren of the southern pole. But though some nobler minds a law respect, That none shall with impunity neglect, In baser souls unnumber'd evils meet. To thwart its influence, and its end defeat; While Cook is loT*d for sarage lives he s&v'd, See Cortez odious for a world ehslav'd I In France, as well as in Britain, the great navigator was lamented. M. 1' Abbe Lisle con- cludes his poem ' Les Jardins' with an encomium on Cook, of which the following lines are a trans- lation : — Give, give me flowers; with garlands of renown Those glorious exiles' brows my hands shall crown, Who nobly sought on distant coasts to find, Or thither bore those arts that bless mankind : Thee chief, brave Cook, o'er whom, to nature dear. With Britain, Gallia drops the pitying tear. To foreign climes, and rude, where nought before Announced our vessels but their cannons' roar. Par other gifts thy better mind decreed, The sheep, the heifer, and the stately steed ; The plough, and all thy country's arts ; the crimes Atoning thus of earlier savage times : With peace each land thy bark was wont to hail, And tears and blessings fill'd thy parting sail. Receive a stranger's praise 1 Nor, Britain, thou Forbid these wreaths to grace thy hero's brow, Nor scorn the tribute of a foreign song. For Virtue's sons to every lattd belong : And shall the Gallic mase disdain to pay The meed of worth, when Louis leads the way ? Other nations participated in the same feelings. Baron Plettenberg and the Dutch officers at the Cape, were much affected at seeing the ships T he great isle con- ncomium ! a trans- D own, dear, 'ore imes ail, u feelings, rs at the he ships NOTICES OF HIS FAMILY. 453 return without their illustrious Commander. Tiie Governor resolved to place the portrait of Cook, be- tween the pictures of Van Tromp and De Ruyter, and desired to have it purchased at any price. To honour his name and memory, the Royal Society struck an elegant medal, bearing on one side the head of Capt. Cook in profile, witli the in- scription jac. cook OCEANI INVESTIGATOR ACERRI- Mus; and on the exergue, reg. soc. lond. socio suo: on the reverse, Britannia holding a globe, with the inscription, nil intentatum nostri LiQUERE ; and on the exergue, auspiciis georoii III. They were struck in gold, silver, and bronze. A gold medal was given to each of the subscribers of twenty guineas; among whom were. Sir Joseph Banks; the Prince of Anspach, the Duke of Mon- tagu, and Lord Mulgrave. Gold medals were also presented to the King, the Queen, and the Prince of Wales; to the Empress of Russia, and the King of France; also, to Mrs. Cook, the Earl of Sand- wich, Dr. Benjamin Franklin, and a few other distinguished friends. His amiable widow, and three surviving chil- dren, were treated with that sympathy and respect to which they were so well entitled. As he had sacrificed their interests, as well as his own life, in the service of his country ; so, within three weeks after the news of his death arrived, a pension of £200 a year was settled on Mrs Cook, and £25 a year on each of his three sons. Half the profits arising from the publication of the Voyage, were also assigned them when the work was published ; and, as a further token of respect, a coat of arms, with appropriate bearings, was afterwards granted to tbe family. ;i r^ 3R ir ■t m V,!' V I- li! I ^3 ,^ I ! J 454 LIFE OF COOK. One of his three sons, Nathaniel, a fine promis- ing youth, who was brought up in the naval service, did not live to enjoy his pension ; being lost in the Thunderer, October 3rd, 1780. The youngest son, boni a few weeks before the Captain sailed on his last voyage, and named Hugh, after his friend and patron Sir Hugh Palliser, was an under-graduate at Christ's College, Cambridge, where he died of a fever, in 1793. James, the eldest son, was bred to the sea, and rose to the rank of Commander in the Navy ; but unfortu- nately perished in attempting to get on board the Spitfire, of which he was Captain, in 1794. Mrs. Cook survived her husband and children many years. She was alive when this work went to the press (See p. 12) ; but has since gone the way of all living. She appears to have uniformly conducted herself in a manner becoming the widow of so great a man. For many years she has lived in retirement; yet her faculties, naturally vigorous, were strong to the last; her affections were still warm, and hor feelings acute. Her sight also did not fail, and being near-sighted, she could, even in her 94th year, read without spectacles. She always spoke of her husband as " poor dear Mr. Cook ;" and, even to the prcwent year, when the anniversary of his death returned, she suffered violent spasms, and was confined to her room. She had similar sensations in stormy weather, two of her sons having perished in storms. Her liberality and kindly feelings continued unimpaired: not long before her death, she sent several things to the Captain's relations, whxch she thought they would prize ; and her valuable medal of him, she sent to the British Museum, only two days before ^^^^^^^^^^v- r NOTICES (»F HIS TAMILY. 45i5 promis- le naval 1 ; being ]0. The Captain igh, after •, was an ,mbridge, mes, the se to the unfoitu- boarcl the 4. children i^ork went gone the [iniformly he widow has lived vigorous, were still it also did >uld, even ;les. She dear Mr. when the e suffered oom. She er, two of [• liberality lired : not things to ught they »f him, she lays before she died. She left, by will, dGlOOO to the parish of Great St. Andrew's, Cambridge, for keeping the family monument, which she erected tiiere, in perfect repair; and for relieving yearly f^ix poor widows, householders, not receiving parochial re- lief. The inscription on the mural monument in the church of St. Andrew, the Great, is a family record, her own name being added since her inter- ment here. It is as follows : In Memory of Captain James Cook of the Royal Navy, one of tlie most celebrated Navigators, that this or former ages can boast of; who was killed by the natives of Owhyhee in the Pacific Ocean, on the 14th day of February, 1779; in the 51st year of his age. Of Mr. Nathaniel Cook, who was lost with the Thunderer Man of war. Captain Boyle Wahingham, in a most dreadful hurricane, in October, 1780, aged 16 years. Of Mr. Hugh Cook, of Christ's College, Cam- bridge, who died on the 21st of December, 1793 ; aged 17 years. Of James Cook, Esqr. Commander in the Royal Navy, who lost his life on the 25th of January 1794 ; in going from Pool to the Spitfire sloop of war, which he commanded; in the 31st year of his age. Of Elizth. Cook, who died April 9th 1771 ; aged 4 years. Joseph Cook, who died Sept. I3th 1768; aged 1 month. George Cook, who died Oct. 1st, 1772; aged 4 months. I 1 1 i? m tf r , > .1 mt n ' i ' - m ■'• 'I! 456 LIFE OF COOK. t'i( 1/ •{ m k^ 1 11 ^ M il •ii All children of the first mentioned Capt. James Cook, by Elizabeth Cook, who survived her hus- band 66 years, and departed this life, 13th May, 1835, at her residence, Clapham, Surrey, in the 94th year of her age. Her remains are deposited With those of her sons James and Hugh in the middle Aisle of this Church. The venerable father of Cook outlived his illus- trious son only a few weeks; and consequently never heard of his untimely end. He was interred at Marske, April 1st, 1779 ; in the 85th year of his age. His son-in-law, Mr. James Fleck, died a few years ago.* Mrs. Fleck, the Captain's sister, had three sons, all master-mariners ; and four daughtere : and as all the seven were married, her descendants are numerous. One only of Capt. Cook's nephews is living, viz. Captain John Fleck, of Sunderland : but three of his nieces yet survive ; viz. Mrs. Grace Carter, of Redcar, Mrs. Mary Duck, of Sunderland, and Mrs. Christiana Hustler, of Deptford. As the relations of Cook were honoured for his sake, so his surviving messmates v/ere justly regard- ed as deserving respect. Several young officers, trained under him, attained the rank of Captains ; some became Admirals ; and not a few were in- trusted with important commands. Even ordinary seamen felt it to be a high distinction to have sail- ed with Cook ; and royalty itself has deigned to honour them. In the present year, when our worthy King, William IV, who having been em- ploj^ed in the naval service himself, takes a lively interest in the welfare of seamen, paid a visit to * The author had not heard of his death when page 16th was printed. '■u ▼^ MONUMIiNTS TO HIS MI'MOUY. 457 pt. Jame» her hus- 3th May, y, in the lugh h. his illus- isequently IS interred ^ear of his Jied a few sister, had iaughtei-s: ascendants s nephews inderland : VIrs. Grace iinderland, d. red for his tly regard- ig officers. Captains ; ir were in- n ordinary have sail- deigned to when our been em- ces a lively I a visit to en page 16th Greenwich Hospital, oti the 1st of August, in com- memoration of the battle of the Nile, His TVIojesty, after inspecting the veterans of the Nile, drawn up on the lawn, went to the wards on the western side of the Hospital, to see three seamen, the sole survivers of Captain Cook, who were too infinn to come out. — Even the vessels which Cook com- manded were deemed veiierable. The Adventure, which outlived them all, was wrecked in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in 1811. When this ship, which belonged several years to Mr. Brown of Hull, and afterwards to Messrs. Appleton and Trattles of Whitby, was repaired here in the dock of Messrs. Langborne, in 1810, fragments of her old timbers were eagerly sought after, to be kept as relics. It was proposed to erect a monument to the memory of our great navigator in Westminster Abbey ; but the design was not carried into effect. Other memorials of this kind have been provided by his friends and admirers. Sir Hugh Palliser constructed a small building on his estate in Buck- inghamshire, with a pillar, on which was inscribed a fine character of Cook, ' The ablest and most renowned Navigator this or any country hath produced." This character, written by the Hon. Admiral Forbes, is published along with the nar- rative of his last voyage, being subjoined to the Introduction by Dr. Douglas. In 1812, the inhabitants of Marton procured a marble tablet, with an appropriate inscription, to be put up in the church where Cook was baptized : but owing to some neglect, it remained cased up about twelve years, when it was at length, through the influence of Archdeacon Wrangham, fixed in its proper station. The inscription is as foUows: ii Wp ■^arSEWSH J! s Ir ; ;s 1^ III v 458 LIFE OF COOK. TO THE MEMORY OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK THE CELEBRATED CIRCUMNAVIGATOR, WHO WAS BORN IN THIS PARISH, OCT. 27th, 1728, THIS TABLET WAS ERECTED BY THE PARISHIONERS OF MARTON, A.D. 1812. A monument on Rosebury Topping^, a noted liill overlooking the parish of Marten, was long- talked of. At last, in 1827, a handsome obelisk, 51 feet high, including a base 12 feet square, was raised to the memory of Cook, on the adjoining hill of Easby, by Robert Campion, Esq. of Whitby, and Easby Hall ; forming a conspicuous sea-mark, and bearing the following inscription : — Erected to the Memory of the celebrated Circumnavigator CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, F.R.S. A man in nautical knowledge, scarcely inferior to any, In zeal, prudence, and indefatigable exertions, superior to most men. Regaraless of personal danger, He opened an intercourse with the Inhabitants of the Friendly Islands, And other parts of the Southern Hemisphere. He was bornatMarton in this neighbourhood, 27th of Oct. 1738, And was massacred at Owhyhee, Feb. the 14th, 1779, To the inexpressible grief and disappnintment of his countrymen! While the Sciences in general, and Navigation in particular. Shall be cultivated among Men ; While the spirit of enterprise, commerce, and philanthr ^py, Shall animate the sons of Britain ; While it shall be deemed the high honour of a Christian nation, To spread the enjoyments of civilized life. And the higher blessings of the Christian Faith, Among Pagan and savage tribes ; So long will the name of Captain Cook stand enrolled Among the most celebrated and most admired of the Bbnefactors of the Human Rack. As a token of Respect for, and Admiration of, the character and labours of that truly great Man, who served his appren- EASBY MONUMENT. 4-VJ )R, th, 1728, [ARTON, , a noted was long e obelisk, [uare, was adjoining r Whitby, sea-mark. r to any, ions, ere. of Oct. 1728, th, J779, countrymen! 1 particular, lilanthr^py, istian nation, ife. Faith, enrolled d of the B. ;he character 1 his appren- ticeship at sea from Whitby, — thisMoNUMRNT was erected by RoHERT Campion, Esq. of Whitby, and Lord of the Manor of Easby. The foundation stone was laid by him on the l:Jth of July, 1827, being the Anniversary of the day on which Capt. Cook commenced his last voyage, and also of the birth of the Founder. It was finished on the 27lh of October, J827, being Captain Cook's birth-day, and wanting- only one year of A Centenary. II I m^^B^^Km^m f^ til 460 LIFE OF COUK. m i ii k I • May this monument long stand, as an honour to our great navigator, a credit to his liberal admirer, and an ornament to the country ! But the happy results of Cook's voyages will form his noblest and most enduring monument. On these Dr. Douglas has enlarged, in the Intro- duction to his last voyage ; and it will be proper, in closing his history, to glance at some of them. With the voyages of Cook, a new era commenc- ed in the history of geography and nautical science. His success in traversing the surface of the globe, exploring unknown seas and coasts, and facilitating the progress of future navigators, was altogether unprecedented. His labours have laid open a vast field for the study of nature, and of man ; where the philosopher, the politician, and the poet, may each find ample scope for his genius. And while his discoveries have led to the formation of flourish- ing colonies, likely to swell into a large Australian empire; they have furnished innumerable openings and facilities for commercial enterprise. At some of the new discovered groups, British consuls or residents are stationed, and an extensive trade is carried on. The character and objects of his expeditions, and the humane and benevolent manner in which he conducted them, have endeared his name, and the name of Britain, to almost all the tribes which he visited. Unlike the early discoverers, he came not to subdue by violence, but to win by kindness; his aim was to enrich, rather than impoverish ; and while he made many nations acquainted with British greatness, he sought to leave with them some lasting memorials of British benevolence. His unwearied exertions to stock the isles of the w^ RESULTS OF HIS VOYAGES. 461 lonour to admirer, ages will Qnument. he Intro- e proper, f them, ommenc- ,1 science. ihe globe, icilitating iltogether )en a vast n ; where poet, may Lnd while r flourish- Lustralian openings At some onsuls or trade is peditions, in which lame, and bes which , he came kindness; poverish ; nted with nth them levolence. les of the Pacific with useful animals and vegetables were not wholly abortive ; and so well were the natives assured of his desire to serve them, that they were delighted with his visits, and begged him to repeat them. The strong attachment of the Tahitians to Capt. Cook is well known. His picture, drawn by Webber, was preserved by their King with the greatest care ; and the names of succeeding navi- gators have been inscribed on the back of it. The first visitors after his death, thought proper to con- ceal the painful fact at Otaheite, forgetting that truth is safer than falsehood : and the mutineers who took possession of the Bounty, when they wanted a stock of cattle for Toobouai, resolving to profit by this deception, made the demand in the name of Captain Cook ; a name which operated on the natives like a charm, and made them furnish, in three days, more than was required. Even in Owhyhee, the chiefs and people still venerate the name of Cook, though they no longer worship his relics; and they deeply regret his death, as having fixed an indelible stigma on their island. " I was once," says Mr. Ellis, " in a house in Oahu, with Karaimoku, and several other chiefs, looking over the plates in the folio edition of Cook's Voyages. They were greatly affected with the print which represented his death, and inquired if I knew the names of those who were slain on that occasion. I perceived Karaimoku more than once wipe the tears from his eyes, while conversing about the melancholy event. He said he recollected Captain Cook s visit, if not also his person, though he was at Maui at the time of his death. More than once, when conversing with us on the length of time the Missionaries had been 462 LIFE OF COOK. ! ■ in the Society Islands, they have said, ' Why did you not come here sooner ? Was it because we killed Captain Cook ?' " — The death of their Kinpf and Queen in London, was regarded by many of them as a judgment of God, inflicted on the islands for the murder of the great Captain. The noblest result of Cook's voyages remains to be noticed, — the introduction of Christianity among the tribes whom he discovered, imparting the rich'- est of all blessings, and securing the increase and permanence of civilization. In 1797, the agents of the London Missionary Society were settled at Otaheite ; and after fifteen years of persevering labour, and patient suffering, the efforts of the pious and devoted Missionaries, were crowned with glorious success. Idolatry, with its b'oody rites, was abolished ; the infamous arreoy society was dissolved, and its abominations and infant-murders were put down ; the restrictions of the taboo were removed, and females advanced to their proper station in social life ; the horrors of war gave place to the sweets of peace ; and true religion, with its attendant virtues, began to prevail. The Scrip- tures have been translated and printed in the language of the natives, thousands of whom have been taught to read, while numbers have learned the arts and industry of Europeans, i he Society Isles have shared with the Georgian, in the bless- ings of Christianity and civilization ; and these blessings have spread from group to group, and from island to island, till a large portion of the Poly- nesian tribes have been reclaimed from idolatry and wickedness. Many of the early converts have carried the gospel to distant isles, and some modern navigators have been astonished at meeting with Why did :cause we leir Kin^ ' many of fie islands emains to tty among f the rich*- rease and he agents settled at ersevering its of the vned with Dody rites, ciety was it-murders tahoo were iir proper jave place 1, with its he Scrip- jd in the horn have ve learned le Society the bless- and these ), and from the Poly- n idolatry verts have ae modern Bting with RESULTS OF HIS VOYAGES. 463 bappy spots on the bosom of the Pacific, where the inhabitants had been christianized and civil- ized, without having seen a European.* This great moral revolution, unprecedented in the history of nations, not only brought to a be- nighted and wretched people the hope of eternal life, but has proved the means of saving them from almost total annihilation. Owing to the causes mentioned in p. 187, especially the prevalence of infanticide, the population of Otaheite, qnd other * The faithfulness and success of the Missionaries in the 8. Sea Islands being now matters of history, established on the unimpeachable testimonies of British, American, and French navigators, it seems strange that any persons bearinj^ the Christian name, should have the hardihood and the malice, to attempt to vilify the character, or depreciate the labours, of those self-denied men, who deserve the tjianks of the whole Christian world. The gross calumnies uttered against them by Kotzebue, who, while committing the most notorious blunders himself, pretends to correct Captain Cook, are tri- umphantly answered by Mr. Ellis, in his Vindication of the 8. Sea Missions ; where he also refutes some unjust reflections of Capt. Beechey on the females of Otaheite. One of the most unwarrantable and scandalous attacks on ibe Missionaries, has been made in the '•'■ Eventful History of the Mutiny of the Bounty," where they are charged with paving reduced the Ta,bitians "to a state of complete pauperism,'' converted their simplicity of character ** into cunning and hypocrisy," nay, dimmished the population of the island, through the effect of *'f)raying, psalm-singing, and dram-drioking ! J f How the salutary exercise of prayer, or the delightful duty of praising God, could reduce the population, is an enigma not easily solved; but the association of these with ** dram-drink* ing," implies one of the foulest slanders that could have been uttered. There is nothing which the Missionaries -have more strenuously opposed than the use of ardent spirits, which has proved one of the greatest obstacles to their »ucces8 ; and to check this baneful destroyer, they have zealously laboured to establish Temperance Societies, wherever drunkenness bad prevailed. Turn'uall, in his Voyages, has well said, '*I know no sufficient punishment that the vi^retch would merit, who should import a cargo of apiritous liquors into the Sandwioti or Society lalands ; it would in every respect ,be tantamount to the wilful administration of an equal quantity of poisoa, 31 "F" I 464 LIFE OF COOK. isles, was rapidly decreasinpf. According to Turn- bull, two thirds of the infants bom in Otaheite were destroyed ; and female children being most frequently the victims, the women on the island constituted only about a tenth part of the inhabit- ants ! But, thanks to a gracious Providence, the progress of this fearful havoc has been arrested by the gospel; and under its benign influence, the people are increasing in number and in happiness. Christianity would have advanced more speedily, had it not been retarded by the conduct of disso- lute seamen, who in the isles of the Pacific, as Capt. Beechey justly observes, "do infinite mischief to the lower order of the natives, by encouraging Ac." Yet such wretches have visited the islands ; and be- cause the Missionaries have opposed their unhallowed traffic, and especially because their licentious commerce with females has been checked throuf^h the influence of the gospel on the natives, they have advanced the basest charges against those worthy men, — charges, which the enemies of religion at home have been eager to spread. That the Missionaries have pauperized the natives, is one of those vile slanders : the gos- pel has made them rich and happy, industrious and cheerful. That their character has been changed, is indeed true ; but it is a change, not from simplicity to cunning; but from vice to virtue, from treachery to fidelity, from cruelty to kindness, from all that is vile, to all that is amiable. This writer derides the Missionaries, for their laudable attempts to in- troduce British laws, and the forms of the British constitution; and charges them with selfishness, in keeping the cattle chiefly under their own care; a measure which Cook, had he been alive, would have warmly recommended, to ensure the pre- servation and increase of the breed. That the Missionaries engross the trade of Otaheite to themselves, is another scan- dnlous falsehood : they are pursuing far nobler objects. This author's remarks on religion are strangely inconsistent. He reproaches the Missionaries as illiterate and unqualified, yet extols the labours of John Adams; he praises the Bible, yet laments the evangelization of Otaheite, and ridicules the idea ^f seeking ** food for the soul 1" In other respects, his work is highly interesting, although not remarkable for cor- rectness : he confounds the tupapoto with the morai. RESULTS OF HIS VOYAGES. 4Go to Tum- Otaheite ns: most e island inhabit- nce, the ested by nee, the ippiness. speedily, of disso- icific, as mischief ouraging I ; and be- ved traffic, ith females ipel on the ainst those )n at home aries have i : the gos- d cheerful, rue ; but it rom vice to ) kindness, 'his writer npts to in- >nstitution; ittle chiefly Eld he been re the pre- lissionaries other scan- jects. iconsistent. mqualified, I tne Bible, dicules the espects, his >le for cor- them in intemperance, debauchery, idleness, a::d all kinds of vice ; nearly sufficient of themselves to counteract all the labours of the Missionaries in the diffusion of morality and religion." Yet, not^vith- standing these and other obstacles, the triumphs of Christianity are spreading widely among these now happy isles ; and the most delightful pictures of the glorious change produced by the gospel, may be seen in Ellis's Polynesian Researches, Tyennan and Bennet's Journal, and other authentic records. When Christianity was sent to the Georgian and Society Islands, attempts were made to intro- duce it also at the Marquesas and the Friendly Isles: these attempts proved abortive, and three Missionaries were murdered at Tongataboo, during the civil wars occasioned by the Feenous. But, of late years, the gospel has been successfully planted in the Friendly Isles, by the Wesleyan Mission- aries, who have promising stations at Tongataboo, the Hapaee Isles, and the Vavaoo group ; and are extending their labours to the Feejees. The mis- sion to the Marquesas has been renewed by the London Society, with pleasing prospects of suc- cess ; while the Samoas, or Navigators Isles, and part of the Feejees, are also brought within the sphere of their operations. The introduction of Christianity into New Zea- land, has already been noticed (pp. 68, 72, 73) : the success of the Church and Wesleyan Mission- aries there, encourages the hope, that it will soon cease to be a land of cannibals and savages. The Sandwich Islands, presenting another in- teresting field of philanthropic labour, have been occupied with great effect by the American Mis- sionaries, since 1820. It is remarkable, that in idb 466 LIFE OF COOK. the year before, on the accession of Rihoriho, idolatry was utterly abolished; so that, on their arrival, the people were ready to receive them with open arms. The circumstances attending this sin- gular event, are detailed by their fellow-labourer, Mr. Ellis, in his Tour through Hawaii. The power- ful and intelligent Tamehameha had unintention- ally prepared his subjects for this change, by adopting European arts and improvements, through the advice and assistance of two respectable British seamen, accidentally left here in 1790, Mr. John Young and Mr. Isaac Davis, on whom he confer- red estates, with the rank of chiefs. Mr. Young promoted the introduction of Christianity, and was alive in 1827, at the visit of Captain Beechey. Learning, religion, and civilization, have progress- ed more rapidly here, than at any other group. Many thousands have learned to read and write ; and multitudes have become genuine Christians. At all the principal Missionary stations in the Pacific, schools are established, as well as public worship; and the printing-press is employed in aid of the pulpit. Thus the light of divine truth is diffused, conveying life, and peace, and joy, to the nations. — Contemplating such blessed results, along with the extension of science and of com- merce, we may boldly say, that the Voyages of our great navigator are connected with the best interests of the human race. In future ages, the natives of these distant isles will revere the mem- ory of that enterprising hero, who first made them known to the Christian world. '* in J i« THE END. ff^Mtby: Printed by Home and Bichardton, lihoriho, on their lem with this sin- labourer, le power- ntention- mge, by , through e British ^r. John le confer- . Young , and was Beechey. progress- jr group, md write; istians. lis in the as public )loyed in dne truth id joy, to id results, of com- :»yages of the best ages, the the mem- iiade them on. Mr James Adams Mr J. Addison, Scarbro' Professor L. Agassiz, M.D. &c., Neiifchdtel Mr Ainsworth, Scarhro, 2 cop. Mr John Alexander Mr Thomas Anderson Mr John Anderson Mr Joseph Anderson Mr John Anderson, jun. Rev. James Andrew Mr James Appleby Miss Atkinson, Sneaton Mr E. Atkinson, Stockton Mr J. Barclay, Surgeon, Edinburgh Mrs P. Barker Joseph Barker, Esq. Robert Baxter, Esq., Doncaster Richard Bayley, Esq., Castle Dyke J. Benson, Esq., Aislaby William Benson, Esq. Henry Belcher, Esq. Charles Belcher, Esq. Rev. J. Blackburn, M. A., AttercUffe cum Dalvall 32 Rev. William Blackburn William Blagden, Esq., AttercUffe J. Blanchard, Esq., York Mr William Bolton Wm. Bottomley, Esq., Scarbro', 1. p. Robert Breckon, Esq. Rev. J. Brewster, M.A., Egglescliffe Richard Brewster, Esq. LieutG.S. Brittain,R.N. 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