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MATTHEW JONES, p. l. s. (Author of "The Naturalist in Bermuda.") . I LONDON: REEVES & TURNER, 196 Strand. NEW YORK: BHENTANO 39 Union Square. MONTREAL: DAWSON BROTHERS. HALIFAX: WM GOSSIP Granville Street. P. E. ISLAND: H. A. HARVIE, Charlottetown. BERMUDA- 8. NELME8, HAMILTON. "-"ui/A. ^1 -i^^^lR •J liTlU : PREFACE. In publishing this little volume, the author requests the indulgence of a generous public. As a first effort to present the claims of Bermuda as a winter resr thf notice of those, who either from motives -, ^i' •»- nation of health, desire to visit - ill p^ oly be found to some extent in- ^ut h^ Hists, nevertheless, that there will met xH Its pages, sufficient information to attract the wa, far r tv those ' Summer Isles,' which ' distant and secluded' though they be on the bosom of the mighty Atlantic, will yet be found replete with interest, and in climatic condition during the season, not to be surpassed in salubrity by any position so easily attainable by the inhabitants of the eastern portion of the North American continent. of CO? ' yet ':, I CONTENTS. Approaches .... General Description History .... ITINERARY. St. George's David's Island Castle Harbour . . . Mullet Bay... Stock's Point . . Causeway .... Walsingham Caves Walsingham . . Paynter Vale Tucker's Town Devil's Hole .... Harrington Sound Flatts Bridge ... Flatts Harbour Gibbon's Bay Gibbet Island North Shore Mount Langton Pembroke Church Peniston's Pond Spanish Rock Smith's Parish Church McGali's Farm ... Paob. 11 17 20 41 42 44 46 46 46 47 49 52 54 55 56 56 58 59 i>9 59 61 66 66 68 68 I vHi. CONTENTS. Smith's Marsh Devonshire College Hungary Bay Hamilton .... Paget Parish Church Paget Sand Hills Royal Engineer Quarries Warwick Parish Church... Hern Bay The Lighthouse Port Royal Church Somerset Bridgo .... Elis Harbour . . Somerset Church Mangrove I^ay Watford Island Boaz Island . . .... Ireland Island Naval Cemetery Islands in the Sound , . . Spanish Point The Middle Road Brackish Pond Devonshire Old Church . . . Devonshire New Church Somerville Climate Natural History Geology Zoology. . Aves Reptilia Pisces Mollusca ■""■ •••• ••■• •••• •••• «••• •••• «••• •••• • • • • « • I • • • • Paoi. 70 71 72 78 80 81 84 85 %6 86 89 91 91 92 93 93 93 94 95 95 99 102 102 103 104 106 106 118 118 122 123 131 131 136 CONTENTS. Paok. 70 71 72 78 80 81 84 88 88 86 89 91 91 92 93 93 93 94 95 95 99 102 102 103 104 105 106 118 118 122 123 131 131 136 Tiinicata Insecta Crustacea ... Radiata .... Botany .... Marine Algae .... • * • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • < • • • • • ^ • IX. Page. .... HO 140 .... 146 145 .... 147 149 A' . MEMORANDA. The Bermuda season may be coiisideied as com- mencing Nov. 1, and ending May 31 ; as the months of June, July, August, September, and a portion of October, are extremely hot and very trying to a northern constitution. Hotel accomodation may be had both at Hamiltoa and St. George's, but the large size and conmianding situation of "The Hamilton Hotel," renders it the best in Bermuda. There are also some private boarding houses in the country. The money in circulation is principally English gold, silver, and copper. The sovereign, or £1 is equal to $4.86f Canada currency. The American $20 gold piece is equal to £4-3-4 ; the $10- £2-1-8, and $5 £1-0-10. No paper currency exists in Ber- muda, and what will be much regretted by visitors, no bank is estabhshed there. There are excellent dry goods establishments both at St. George's and Hamilton, where every requisite in the form of clothing may be had at reasonable prices. There are other stores also, where may be obtained all the necessaries, if not the luxuries of life. ' !l XU. MEMORANDA. Conveyances some of a superior description, with careful drivers can always be had at short notice. There is an excellent library at Hamilton supported by government, from which works may be obtained daily on payment of a small fee ; and there is also a lending library in the same town at which most of the principal English and American magazines and newspapers may be had. Several skilful physicians practice in Bermuda; also three or four dentists ; while excellent drug stores are to be found both at Hamilton and St. George's. \ THE BERMUDAS OR SOMERS' ISLES. " Where the remote Bermudas ride, I' th' ocean's bosom unespied." ANDREW MARVKI.L. Alone, as it were, on the wild waste of waters, about six hundred miles east of the Carolina coast, lies the little group of islets known as Bermuda. In days of yore, when lighthouses were few and far between, and navigation was beset with a host of dangers and difficulties, these islands were con, sidered as one of the greatest terrors of the deep ; for lying in the track of merchantmen from Europe to America, and surrounded far out to sea by a girt Qf barrier reef^, they too often became the last home of the mariner, who^e ship in the dark tempestuous night, was driyen ii^ fury upon the foaming breakers, and dashed to atoms amid the seething foam. There is nothing bold in scenic effect to strike the eye of the visitor on first casting a look over the entire group; no elevated peaks or cone-like craters rear their majestic forms towards the sky ; nor hillside .gorge reveal the mountain torrent leaping on its liquid way. All is on a small scale, and although with islands and rocky islets together, over three hundred may be counted, yet the whole lie in a space of twenty-three miles by three, aud so slightly 10 flEUMLDAS. raiscfl arc thoy nhovc the ocean surface, that the very highest point of land only reaches two hundred and lift}' feet. Their origin was doubtless owing to the upheaval of a portion of the ocean bed to within a few feet of the surface, and the consequent formation of land was probably a more rapid process than persons would imagine. The Gulf Stream, that ' river of the ocean,' to which the British Isles and the contiguous portions of the European continent owe their pleasant tem- perate climate, flows between the Bermudas and the eastern coast of the United States; trending to the north-ea^t as it reaches the latitude of New York; thus afford'n^ the ocean to the southward, protection from the coh^. winds and waves which course along in a southerly direction from the fro;5en north during the winter months. 0:i the eastern edge of this heated concourse of waters which circle around from south to north-east, snugly lie the Bermudas ; while within this semi-circular space, vast fields of a sea weed known to naturalists as Sargassum hacci/erum intermingle with driftwood, seeds of trees and i>iants, and al)iuidance of other vegetable matter bearing upon its surface, or within its tangled masses, n)yriads of moUusks, crustaceans, and otiier inver- • tebrate forms, which float hither and thither as the winds direct, while thousands of fishes frequent these aquatic preserves to feast upon the various forms. APPROACHES. 11 APPROACHES. There are two routes by which the Bermudas can be ™.ted ; one via New York , the other via Ha ur. Nova Scotia. By the former route communica«on IS by steamer tr:.w«ekly from November to Math andfcunightly from April to July; while bet^^ Ha .fax and Bermuda the steamer plies once a mZh threi f„^ T^^^'" """"P^' "^"^ "'^ ««"'« time, hree to three days and a half, prolonged to fonr day If head winds prevail. •' Twenty.four hou,-s after leaving either port a verv perceptible change occurs in the temperature of thi a.r; overcoats become useless, and the extra cov! ZZV^: '-"■"■" "-^--""J dispensed wth; and while the comfortable warm cabin was chosen as the chief resort on leaving port, the open deck" a la e hoiu' of the night, now become the hea 1- Sdlv chit "'t: "'" '"™ '° ''^ »"« «- '» iriendly chat. The voyage is soon over ; yet durin- the time there is much to engage the att „ ion of an enquiring mmd. The Gulf Stream in itself is ^e o wate::"or;: r r;';v -^-«"sf- the heate waters of the Gulf of Mexico, it rushes with much force through the narrow channel which div es ft Bah.™as from the Florida coast, and proceed n. north up the coast of the United States, yet at so^t ^eat ..rctiinu,'::: ihi r r:™ t^:- "i **": I 12 APPliOACHES. Strait with its burden of icebergs, is hemmed in, as it were, by the warm current, and the icy masses melting, deposit their cargoes of rocks, pebbles, and sand, on the submarine banks which have long been known to exist in that position, and are annually rising towards the surface owing to these accumula- tions ; and will, no doubt, many years to come, appear above the ocean, and form sandy islets like that of Sable Island off the coast of Nova Scotia. "When on the eastern edge of the Gulf Stream, the vessel will meet with large floating masses o^ the gulf weed before alluded to, which have been brought ^y the current from the south, or been blown from its great collecting ground to the north-east, an area well-known to navigators from the earliest times as " The Sargasso Sea," and through which Colum- bus steered with his terror-stricken crew on his memorable V03''age which resulted in the discovery of the new world. It is to these floating masses of gulf weed that the northern shores of America owe the presence of isolated examples of tropic fishes taken generally during the later months of summer. Dur- ing that period the ocean surface is rarely disturbed by violent storms, and the gulf weed floats along in immense fields, propelled both by the swift, warm current and southerly winds, to a far more northerly point than usual ; indeed, instances are known, one very recently, where turtle have been captured while floating on the v,'»\ter within one hundred miles of Halifax. The denizens of this favorable cover thus Al»P«OAC'lIES. 13 the brought within a comparatively short distance of the north-east coast of America, wander away right and left, and many strike the shores and are captured, to afford wonder to those who are unaccustomed to tlieir singular forms. Thus it is that on the coast of Nova Scotia are found almost every summer, examples of West Indian Balules, Fisfuluna, Hemi ramphm, Exoccetus, etc., also the pelagic mollusc com- monly known as the ' sea snail' (Phyaalia pelagica) ; while many large seeds of West Indian plants such as Eniada scandens, Mucuna urens and others chiefly belonging to the family Leguminosce, are picked up at Sable Island, which lies eighty or more miles off the Nova Scotian coast. Another object which will attract attention is the flying fish, which is generally observed darting from the water under the steamer's bows when she comes within 150 miles of the islands. It is a curious fish, having elongated pectoral fins, which, when expanded, are of suflScient extent to enable the fish to rest upon the air during its course, which is always a straight one, and rarely prolonged to a greater distance than fifty or sixty yards, often much less. Inaccurate observers have declared that the fins in question are used just like the wings of a bird, jerking up and down, and that the fish can vary its course to the right or left as it wills. This is not the case, for its fins merely act as spread sur- faces to enabled the fish to balance itself in the air, as long as the fins remain moist, and immediately they are dry, it falls into its element again to renew 14 APPROACHES. 11 I ! M ! i the motive power. It may just as well be said that the flying squirrel uses its expansive membrane while skimming from tree to tree as wing power, as to grant the Cying fish the power of using its pectorals as moving organs of flight. As soon, however, as the islands are made, the visitor will think but little of the ocean he has traversed or its wonderful inhabitants. Perhaps he has been terribly seasick, and only yearns to set foot upon terra firma, so we will only make a passing allusion t-^ the waters surrounding the Bermuaas. North and west of the islands, at a distance from shore in some directions of ten or more miles, lie what are known as the outer reefs, a belt of submerged rocks coated with Serpulm, marine annelides inhabiting exceeding hard and irregularly twisted calcareous tubes ; andvarious other forms, particularly nullipores, t,.ony sea weeds of a rosy colour which occur as wart- like processes on all portions of the reef rock. With- in the outer reefs and coating the inner edges of these submerged rocks, grow the various species of corals, familiarly known to all, and treasured as curiosities in their bleached and whitened form, alike in castle and cot. Very different, indeed, is the aspect they pre- sent in situ. A brown mass looking like a small bush protrudes from the edge of a reef rock, which would never be heeded by the casual observer. What can it be? Carefully break it off at its bjjso, and bring it to the surface. It is heavy and branched, and coated all over with a slimy mass Jiorfoctly disgusting Afriio ACHES. 15 to look at ; but wait a bit, laj' it by and take it safely oil shore. Tiicn lot it pass through the proper pro- cess of cleaning, and ii: a week's time on your table Avill rest one of the prettiest objects to be obtained from the Bermudian waters. There are ten or more sppr'ies of corals growing on the reefs the names t)f which will be found hereafter. Thousands of other objects help to form the population of these outer reefs and contribute not a little to their growth ; while myriads of tropic fishes here find in the snug holes and corners formed in the wave worn rocks, a home well suited to their tastes. Through certain channels in this reef, vessels reach the harbours within, but without the aid of the pilots, a daring clever set of fellows, with eyes as sharp as hawks, and nerves that never fail, it would bo useless to attempt an entrance ; so with one of these useful personages on board we will suppose the vessel on which the visitor has taken passage to be gradually approaching the land. If from New York the steamer enters the channel knoAvn as " The Narrows" which is sufficiently wide for ves- sels of the largest class, and has a depth of seven or eight fathoms at low water. The course is almost parallel with the shore until abreast of Fort Catherine. From this point to Murray Anchorage the course is somewhat semicircular, and then almost parallel with the shore all the way to the " Hog- fish Cut" opposite Spanish Point. It then trends inwards until the eastern end of Long Island is reached, where there is only a depth of two and a half fiithoms at low 16 APniOACHES. water, gradually increasing, however, to a depth of live fathoms opposite Share Point, within which lies Hamilton or Crowe Lane harbour, having a uniform depth of four or five fathoms, allowing good sized vessels to moor alongside the wharves, which possess tho very great convenience of light galvanized iron roofs, under which all luggage and freight is safe from exposure. Should the visitor arrive in the steamer from Halifax, instead of turning to the right at the entrance of tiie Narrows the vessel steers straight for Governor's Island, through an extremely narrow channel marked by buoys and poles, requiring great caution on the part of the pilot, who rarely however fails to bring his craft safe into St. George's harbour, which is entered when Governor's Island is passed. On this Halifax route there is now a very powerful and strongly built iron steamer of 600 tons, named the "Beta", commanded by Capt. Shaw, a very efficient officer, whose politeness and attention are so well known to every one who has had the pleasiire of sailing with him. The only drawback from the plea- sure of a pas^'a^e by this route, is having to land in boats, the steamer generally anchoring out in the har- bour some distance from shore. Occasionally, how- ever, she goes alongside the wharf for coaling purposes, when the visitor has no trouble whatever in landing himself and his luggage. GKNEUAL DESCUIPTIOK. 17 GENERAL DESCRIPllON. Latittide (Lighthouse on Gibb's Hill) 32" 15 ' 4" N. Longitude 04° 5 1 ' 36 " W. Shape, a narrow elongat- ed strip of land about twenty-three miles long, running nearly ecst and west, bent inwards at one extremity like a fish hook, and indented throughout by inlets with kiumerous little inlets scattered over the whole extent. Distance from Cape Hatteras in North Carolina, about 600 miles ; and from Halifax, Nova Scotia, 750 miles. The land lies very- low ; the high- est point being only 250 feet above the sea level ; but it is pleasingly diversified throughout its whole area with little hills and dales. It is covered, more or less, with groves of cedar (Juniperus harhademia) having an underwood of sage bush {Lantana odorata) and (L. cumara.) A few depressions, slightly below tlie sea level, are wet and marshy, tenanted by coarse grasses, reeds and sedges, with palmettos and cedars where the jp-ound is dry, and mangioves and avicen- nias where it is muddy. There are no lakes, streams, or wells of fresh water ; the only supply of that ele- ment being from the clouds. The roofs of the houses are prepared on puipose to allow the rain to nm free- ly into tanks undergi-ound ; some of which are of large size and keep an i bundance of water perfectly clear and fresh for two or three months, if a drought should occur. The climate, during the winter months of Novem- ber, December, .Tannnrv. Fphrimm- nnA Afnw.h ia ■ IB OliMEhAL bESCHKTloK. li If; . simply charming; the thermometer usually ranging from 60 to 70 degrees. Cool and pleasant breezes almost continually prevail ; and as may well be im- agined from its position on the wide oceap, the air of Bermuda is the purest of the pure. There is hardly a day throughout this lovely season, that the weakest invalid could not walk about, or take carriage exer- cise in : and moreover, be able to irnale the sweet perftime of roses, geraniums, and other flowers which aie always in bloom.* The trade of Bermuda is carried on by a dozen oi more island vessels and others irom England, United Stat--^, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward Island. ' the island vessels are built of cedar, the most dur- able of all woods; but as that timber is getting scarce, shipbuilding is not carried on to the extent it wa, formerly. The principal exports are onions, tcraatoes, and potatoes ; chiefly to New York, during the months of April, May, and June. Arrowroot has also been, for many years, a well known Bermu- dian product, commanding a high price in every part of the world. There are two line regiments quartered in Bermuda, as well as artillery and engineers ; and the dock^^rd has a number of officers and men attached to it. Fishes of sevoval kinds are taken in some quantity around the islands. »nrdcularly coopers (Serrani), Which are brou^-. : j tae wharves in boats furnished »ee herellS" P""*^"'" *<^^<'"°' *'^ ''»« climate. Ae., of eUch month. • i I (iENERAL DESCRriTiON. i9 with grated wells, in which the Cifh swim about until required. The angel fish (Holacanthfn) and chub {Pimeleptsrus) are considered as great dainties by epi- cures. The average price of all flsh is 3d. per lb. Butchers meat is daar, owing to the necessity of importing nearly all that is required for the consump- tion of b .th natives and troops. The host joints of beef sell at Is. '^d. ; mutton Is. ; pork 9d., per lb. Poultry is also dear, and as the climate will not allow of its keeping long after being killed, fowls, c'.ucks, &c., are always sold alive at from 9d. to Is. per lb. Eggs are usually abundant, selling foi- Is. per dozen. Fresh butter is dear, and as a rule b} no means good, selh'ig at 2s. per lb. Milk varies from 4d. to 6d. per qi'art. The roads in Bermuda are, or lather ought to be, good, for a little proper attention is all that is required to render them excellent. Stage coaches, not by any means roomy, traverse cbe country from St. (George's to Hamilton, and from Han.ilton to Somerset, and vice versa, every day, (Sundays excepted). It is hoped, however, that in a few years, a railway will be constructed between these two towns, which might be done at a very moderate cost owing to the peculiar nature of the rock, which can be cut with a common hand saw ; and once made with sleepers of cedar, which would last for twenty or more years jperfectly sound, it TOuld certainly prove a great benefit to the inhabitants, and be almost sure to pay its exi)enBes. I X" 'JO 11IST(>RV/ mSTORY. As fegards the history of these interesting Isles, we find that a certain Spanish vessel named the " La Garza" while on a passage from Spain to Cuba alx)iit the year 1515, laden with a cargo of hogs, was the first to discover them. Her captain, Jmm Beiinudez, intended to have landed, and, as was customary with vessels of his nation visiting unin- habited islands, to leave a few hogs to propagate their species, and thereby afford food to any future castaways. The treacherous elements, however, did not allow of Jiis carrying his intention into effect, for a heavy gale coming on, he was obliged to sheer off". It must ever be a source of regret to those who take an interest in scientific pursuits, that this vessel was not enabled to land one of her passengers, John Gonzales Oviedo, one of the earliest Spanish naturalists, who was on his way to examine the natural productions of the West Indian islands. Had he set foot upon the coral strand, and roamed through the dense woods of cedar, or the marshy tracts aloiig the shore, we should doubtless have been made aeqnainted with the fauna the group then possessed. We have, however, the following par- ticulars regarding the probable size of the islands, whixjh he gives in his " History of the West Indies." " Ift the year 1515 when I came to inform your Majesty of the state of things in India (West Indies), I observed that in my voyage when to the windwar(^ JlWTOltV. 21 of the Island of Bermudez, othemise called "Gorga," being the most remote of all the islands yet found in the world, I determined to send some of the people ashore, both to search for what might be there, and to leave certain hogs upon it to propagate ; but on account of a contrary wind, I could not bring the ship nearer than cannon shot. The island was 36 miles in leigth, 48 in breadth, and about 90 in circuit." * From that date to the year 1543, we have no re- corded instance of any one visiting the islands ; but during this year, tradition asserts, that another Span- iard, to whom the King of Spain had granted them, landed and took formal possession, planting a flag on a prominent headland of the south shore of^the main island, and carving the initials of his name with the date of his visit on the rock beneath. The next account of the Bermudas is from one Henry May, an Englishman, who, after having emised for some time in a privateer about the Gulf of Mexico, sailed from Lagnna, November 29, 1593, in a Frencli vessel bound for Europe. It so hapi^ened that on the 7th of December when it was supixjsed that the dreaded Bermudas were passed, the crew of this vessel were served with, a liberal allowance of wine to celebrate such a joyous event, and drink to • a speedy voyage across the Atlantic. But such was not to be their good fortune, for about midnight of *If these tlieoretical measurements atiproxlmato the friith tho ~'-~ "" '',"!~ iistjct jjuTv isKvu iiiscc uiit-r iiiib Uaie, 22 HiSTOHV. li that day of merriment the ship struck with such violence on the outer reefs, as to leave but little time for those on board to save themselves ere she settled down upon the coral bed beneath the warm ocean waves. The spot where the vessel struck is descnbed by May as being a high rock rising from the water, which, owing to the darkness of the night, they took to be a portion of the main land • but daylight revealed a different state of thinors, for they were fully twelve miles from the nearest point of the shore, now known as Fort Catherine on the north side of St. George's Island. They must have struck close to the North Rock, a solitary pinnacle which rises but ten or twelve feet above high water mark, and is only eight feet in diameter, being situate at the edge of the barrier reef in a northerlv direction from the islands. On landing, they found every part covered to the water's edge with cedar, but not a vegetable root of any kind was found to serve them for a meal. Turtle, however, they found in abundance, and during .he live month's thev lived upon the islands they fared well. Ilavinc. con- structed a small vessel of cedar wood, they put to sea and succeeded in making the coast of ]^?ova bcotia, where they procured water and ballast, and then proceeding north towards Newfoundland, were received on board a vessel bound for Europe i.nother and more particular account of the islands in early times is to be found in an old and extremely scarce black letter book, bearing on itd title pa^r^ ' ^The llISTOftV. 23 Wreck of the Sea Adventure, by Sil. Jourdan." It contains a narrative of events regarding the ship- wreck of that vessel, which was one of a small fleet despatched from England to the colony of Virginia, having on board a newly appointed governor of that possession, Sir Thomas Gates; also Admiral Sir George Somers, and other notable persons interested in the prosperity of the colony. It appears that on the vessel running ashore, the whole crew, consisting of one hundred and fifty souls, happily got safe to land with a good supply of provisions and stores of all kinds, which were of great use to them after- wards. On roaming about the islands they found food in abundance ; the wild hogs were very numerous • And particularly fat; feasting as they did upon tne berries, of the cedar. When the hogs got lean they changed their food to turtle. Sea birds frequented the place in multitudes ; especially a bird called the " cahow," since recognized as the Dusky Shearwater (Pu^nus ohscurus) . Fish of many kinds were taken daily ; indeed they Wei'e so common about the shore that Jourdan quaintly remarks : " If a man step into the water they will come round about him, so that men were fain to get out for fear of by ting." Like May and his companions, Sir George and his party built vessels of cedar with the intention of leaving the islands, which purpose they carried into effect May 10, and arrived at Cape Henry at the eri'Tance to the Chesapeake, anchoring on the 2rrd in front of .Tnmpsfnwm ^l.u flw^.v ^.,..^U„i „x» xr-..^.?..? ----- , ^.,j_ vuvn V api ;,ai ui V iigiliia 21 HfftToRY. o di ,o„ from ^a„t ^f ^^ „.^^ vo unteercd to return to Bermuda Ibr fresh supp™? the g„,|a, t old tar, and, although he lived to reach he « and, once more, anxiety and over-evert^n Kng?™d rin^rtr;:;-':'""'''' """ "''" '" n. T . , ""-^"n...., f)ut, as was customarv nt that ponod, the heart and intestines wen, Zi t the lan.l on which he „«d breathed his last The^ were nuerred on the site of the present town of sT waU was':',' " ""' """ » ^- 3-™ later a st<^„ ' wall was built around the grave, and a marble sto la.d over it l«ari„g the following dmllinsc"!!! In the ycnro ] q . lie la.ro bc,„e„.l,od l,l/.„traiV«„d "u hoar,. Soon after this, an exaggerated statement rei ^ -ining of the same day were landed tVom tlie veosel on the south side of Smith's Island in St. George's harbour, and since tliat date tlie islands liave been regularly inhabited. The next Governor after Moore was Captain Daniel Tucker, who had been a i)lanter in Virginia. He arrived in Bermuda in May 161G and resorted to vigorous measures to compel the peoi)le to work for the benefit of the Company. During Cap:.. Tucker's administration, there was struck for circulation a brass coin having on one side the figure of a hog, and on the reverse a ship : of this token, only five or six examples now ex- ist : two of which, found some years ago by a labourer on the Verdmont property, in Smith's parish, are to be seen in a case in the Public Building. It is said that owing to its extreme rarity, the "Bermuda Hog- penny" is valued by numismatists at $25. It was during Capt. Tucker's government that Norwood sur- veyed the islands, and divided them into tribes and shares. The next Governor was Nathaniel Butler, who arrived on the island, Oct. 20, 1G19. He was succeeded by Henry Woodhouse in 1623. In 1G2C arrived Philip Bell, who was again relieved by Roger Wood in lG2i). Then came Thomas Chaddocke and Capt. Turner; the latter in :G42. In 1G53 Josiah Foster became Governor, during whose administration several persons were hung at St. George's, after trial, for witchcraft. He was relieved by William Sayle in 1 r)58. It was ftbout this time that African neirroes .2« IIISTOIIY. iili'tl were .ntroduced as slaves. After Saylc came Floren- tms .Seymour in lB(i;i ; „„,! then Sir Jolm IlayJen,' Knt., ,„ 1BC9. Fiorotius Seymour again became Governor m 1«81, an.l died iu Sandy's parish, Nov. Zl! s, °"' ^''''""''' '^"""•V "'rived Jan. 29th, 1C83, and was sworn in as governor, and he was the last gom-nor appointed by the Bermuda Company. After tins date all governors were appointed by the Crown. Ihe first of these was Sir Kobert Robinson commissioned by King James 11, as Governor and Captain General and Vice-Admiral of the Bermudas, in !()«/. He was succeeded by Isaac Richier in 1691 whose administration, it is said, was "characterized by gross violation of all hiw and order." John Ooadard was next in rotation, arriving August, 1693 It was during Governor Goddard's administration that a singular grant was made to one Thomas Neale of London, " of all treasure concealed in the Bermudas." This document was no doubt the result. of a widely spread report that several years before certam Spamsh galleons had been wrecked on the reefs, and the treasure buried on Ireland Island. Governor Goddard was succeeded by Samuel Day. Ihis gentleman soon got into difHculties with the inliabitants, and a formal complaint jeing made to the Lords of Trade and Plantations, he was re-called and Beiyamm Bennett appointed in his place in May 1/01. Governor Bennett proved a most populai- offleei-, and ,t was not without regret to the inhabi- tants that he closed his admiuistration in November '% HISTORY. 27 ic Floren-, Ilayden, I became ish, Nov. an. 29th, ■ was the ompany. A by the obinson, ■nor and rmudas, in 1691, icterized ' John it, 1693. stration Thomas i in the e result before on the Island. 1 Day. ith the lade to -called n May opular nhabi- Mnber, 1713. Henry Pulleine was his successor, but did not long enjoy his government, as he died April 20, 1715, and, much to the satisfaction of the people, Mr. Bennett again took the reins of government. In July, 1720, a suspicious looking vessel made her appearance off the islands, and the sloop "Devon- shire" was hired, manned, and equipped to pursue her. This vessel was placed under the command of a Capt. Joell, a man of determined and intrepid character. After a short cruise, she encountered a heavily armed Spanish ship homeward bound, with a valuable cargo, and Capt. Joell, nothing daunted at the tremendous advantage of the enemy in point of size, unhesitatingly brought her to action. The battle lasted for some time, when Capt. Joell, finding his antagonist endeavouring to escape, determined to board, but in the attempt the boom of the sloop was shot away, the gallant captain severely wounded, and some of the crew killed. This decided the engagement, as the sloop became unmanageable, and after a temporary repair was obligee^ to returii to Bermuda. Governor Bennett was relieved by John Hope in February, 1 722. Tiiis officer proved very unpopular, md quarrels between him and his council were con- inual. At last, after hearing that a conspiracy was on foot against him, he procured leave of absence, and was succeeded by John Pitt in September, 1728. But no better results appear to have attended the 28 iiisTonr. 11 appointment of this gentleman, for he appeared to ba as unpleasant as his predecessor. It was during this year that the celebrated Dr. George Berkeley, Dean of Derry, and afterwards Bishop of Cloyne, obtained a charter from the British Government for the foundation of a college in Ber- muda, to bear the name of '• St. Paul's College," for training young men for missionary purposes in the American and West Indian Colonies; and, also, for converting the savages of America to ^aristianity. The English Parliament voted £20,000, and several private subscriptions were added for the purpose of carrying out the supposed laudable undertaking. So great was the enthusiasm of this worthy man that he actually resigned his deanery, worth £1,100 per annum, to become President of the college, with a salary of £100, which he fixed himself. But although ' he came out and resided two years in the American provinces, he returned to England without carrying out hib project. Governor Pitt resigned his post and was succeeded by Allured Popple, July 10th, 1738, who died and was buried at St. George's, Nov. 9th, 1744. An old marble monument, surmounted by the arms of the Popple family, in colours, may be seen in the parish church. William Popple, probably a relative of the late worthy, became governor July 1st, 1747. Whitfield, the celebrated preacher, arrived in Ber- muda on his way from Virginia to England, and IIISTORV. 29 •ed to be ted Dr. lerwards 3 British in Ber- ge," for } in the ilso, for »tianity. several pose of »g. So in that 100 per with a [though nerican arrying ceeded 3d and An old of the parish le late _ a Ber- , and spent several months on the islands. On the Caven- dish estate, in Devonshire parish, until lately in the possession of the Hon. J. H. Darrell, ex-chief justice of Bermuda, existed, a few years ago, an old locust tree, under the branches of which Whitfield often preached ; but a heavy gale levelled it with the ground. A stone slab marks the spot, but it is to be regretted that it bears no inscription recalling to remembrance the services of so eloquent a man in this secluded snot. Governor William Popple left the islands Dec, 1763, and George James Bruere was appointed to succeed him. His government was characterized by a series of misunderstandings with the House of Assembly until they culminated on Maj^ 27, 1780, in a resolution in connection with the council to petition the crown with reference ' ' to the misery arising .rom the administration of His Excellency George James Bruere, Esq." No answer, however, was require ' to the petition, for the death of the governor rendered further proceedings unnecessary. Next came George Bruere as Lieut. Governor i;i October of the same year. During this month occurred a fearful hurricane which surpassed in violence anything of the kind that had been experienced on the islands. During the continuance of this gale, houses were levelled tq the ground, and many a stately cedar was uprqoted 1l)y the fury of tl^e blasit. The tide rose to an extra-i ordinary height, jind the shipping suffered to a great ai) lirSTORV. extent. Indeed, so jri^f was the damarro done to pmporty of all deseriptlonR, that for many years afterwards tfie j,n-eat October gale was alluded to as an awftil visitation. On January 4, 1782, William Browne, a loyalist and native of Massachusetts, where he had held high otHcial appointments, became Governor. The year 1784 was rendered notable in the annals of Bermudian history by the establishment of a newspaper, under the title of - The Royal Gazette," the hrst number of which was issued Januaiy 17 of that year. A specimen of this newspaper may be seen in the Bermuda Library, thanks to His Excel- lency Gove^or Lefroy, who, about two years ago, very judiciously directed an old file, unfortunately incomplete, which was found in ihe library and would probubb' luive been treated as waste paper, to be ' bound for future reference. It was during Governor Browne's administration that a motion was set on foot for transferring the seat ot government to a more convenient site about the centre of the main island, and the present posi- tion of Hamilton was selected. On October 13, ] 788. Governor Browne embarked for hng and, to the great regret of the Bermndians, l..r, nnder h« able management, the business of the colony was con,I„cted very snccessftUly with both Counol .and Assembly; trade flourished, and the e.ed,t ol the country was gocxl. He was su.-oded iirsTour. 31 done to y years :;ci to as loyalist eld high } annals it of a izette," yn of nay bo Excel- fs ago, mately i would to be tration tig the about fc posi- )arked diiins, 3f the both d the eded by TTcnry Hamilton, who proved as popular as his l)rodcccssor. In the 3'oar 1703, a quantity of copper coin, pence and half-pence, was struck for use in Uermuda, which 18 now not often seen in circulation. On one side is the King's head, surrounded by the name '' Georgius HI," and on the reverse, a ship in full sai' wit": "Bermuda, 1703." In 1704, Governor Hamilton was relieved by James Crawford, who, being strongly suspected of entertain- ing Jacobite principles, had charges preferred against him at home, which caused him to be superseded, and Lieut. Col. William Campbell succeeded him. Sad to relate, this unfortunate officer, who arrived November 22, 1700, and assumed the command, only lived eight days, as he was attacked by a fever of a very malignant type, and succumbed to the disease on the first day of December. lie was buried at St. George's, as a memorial tablet in the parish church shows. On February 24, 1708, ar-ived in H. M. S. " Hinde," George Beckwith as Governor. At this time the islanders were pleased with the endeavors of Admiral Mun-ay to cause a docic d to be established, and this officer, after careltil survey, ordered the frigate " Cleopatra" to enter the channel at the East end, and proceed to the anchora'^-e ground now beanng his name. On February 10, 1801, the islands were visited by an earthquake of some severity, (lovernov^ Beckwith nrsToRv. left Bermuda April 8, 180.). In 1804, the cow-pox was intrcKluced from Carolina, and was received aVa blessing by the inhabitants, who had been subject to tha dreadful malady the small-pox from the pe.-iod of the earliest settlement of the place. In 1804 also, Torn Moore the poet obtained the post of Itegistrar of the Court of Admiralty, an office, which although a very lucrative, could not have been looked upon as a very resiyomMo one, as Moore left the islands after three month's residence, and was allowed to appoint a deputy ,„ i,i, pi^,^ (3^j^j ^^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^.^^^^^^ ^^ hold the appointment while living in England, for forty years afterwards and was not superseded until Crovernor Reid represented the case at home la April 1805, Francis Gore became Governor, but only remained until June 1806. John Hodcrson succeeded him, and a stormy reign he appear! to have had for four years ; courtesy or ceremony in his dealings with the representatives of the people, not being marked features in his character. Sir James Cockburn was the next Governor, arriv- mgm August 1811. In 1816, as built a large college in Devonshire parish, wnich has lately been rebuilt and converted into a r.unatic Asylum. Sir James was succeeded by Sir WilUam Lumley in November 1819, who appears to have possessed a temper by no means amiable or calculated to win the hearts of the people. Whatever he wished to do, whether constitutional or not, it mattered little- if -shes were thwarted by the House of Assembly such IIISTOUY. 33 or private individuals, his anger was i^nstantl} aroused, and he committed acts so violent, that Williams in his history of the islands, declares ; that " ho pennitted himself to be so governed by his passions, that in a short period after his arrival, he had rendered him- self personally obnoxious to almost every influential member of the community". To the " sincere satis- faction of the Bermudians", so says the same his- torian. Sir William terminated his unhappy adrainis- trailon by embarking on June 6, 1825 for Halifax. Sir Ililgrove Turner succeeded him, arriving at Ber- muda February 14, 1826, and continued in office until January 16, 1832, wheu Sir Stephen Chapman became Governor. The year 1834 will long be remembered ia Bermuda as that in which an Act of the Imperial Legislature released from the bonds of slavery, the coloured population of the islands. However degrading the title of slave may have been, yet in the Bermudas we venture to say that few, if any, were the instances of cruelty known to have been exercised towards the negroes Piaployed there. All, as a rule, were treated With great kindness ; so much so, that many slaves would much rather have continued in the happy homes they had been brought up in, than have had to seek their own living, which appeared such a strange new life to them. Jn the year 1835, occurred a most calamitous fire in New York, the losses estimated at $20,000,000. Many of the Bermudians sutfered great pecuniary in iii WiStOUY. loss by this fire, having invested Uirgelj in the various lire insurance offices of that cit \ On July 24, 1838, H. M. S. '' Vestal" arrived from Quebeo with eight ringleaders of the Canadian rebel- lion, wiio had been banished thence by an order of the then Governor-General, Lord Durham, but they only remained three months. Governor Chapman was relieved April 12, 1839, by Lieut.-Col. William Reid, C. B. , R. E. It was on the night of September 11, of this year that a violent hurricane passed over the islands, doing immense damage to property of all descriptions, and rendering houseless many poor families who lived in exposed situations. The new Governor was not long in ex- hibiting his peculiar fitness for the position in which he was placed, for in two months from the date of his taking the seals of oflfice, at his recommendation was introduced into the Assembly a bill for the establish- ment of public library which from that day to this has flourished, and is not to bo surpassed in regard to the high order of the works it contains, by°any similar institution in either of 'he British North American or West Indian colc.iies. But this was only one instance of the zeal this worthy man exor- cised in behalf of the country. His mind was always at work finding out new sources from which good would ensue ; and every year added to the rich store of his useful deeds. Every one knew "the good governor," as he journeyed about the islands on his missions of peace and good will to the people coin- liisfoKv. 35 hutted to his care ; and by all was he treated wltli that respect he was so justly entitled to. Every object which he thought Would tend to further the cause of useful knowledge, in him found a firm sup- porter Even his spare moments, brief as tliey must have been, in the daily life of such a hard workh,^ mmd, were devoted to pursuits of service to mar- kind. The study of meteorology afforded him intense pleasure, and his observations, made with unvaried perseverance, during his eontimied residence on the publish the work so well known to navigators as -Reid on Storms", which has been of sd Lch sei'- Vice to shipmdstei's, and remains a classic work to this day. Long, indeed, will his name be remembered by the grateful inhabitants of the Bermudas ; for under his able and judicious rule, the prosperity of the • Islands was m every respect greatly advanced. To perpetuate his memory in a more prominent mariner, flom England a granite obelisk, which was placed in he grounds of the Public Building, bearing the fol- lowing inscription ;— the Legislature in grateful remembrance o f the pubhc services and private worth of Major General S.n Wi.liam Reii>, K C B ^or must it be omitted to. mention that in all his ondeavours he was tenderly assisted and encouraged 36 lIISTOilV. HI 11, m by a talented and amiable wife. Lady Reid was greatly and deservedly beloved by all classes of the community ; for possessing a most pleasing disposi- tion, as well as a large amount of good sense com- bined with cleverness; she not only lent valuable assistance to her husband in his official as well as scientific pursuits; but by her engaging manners, i-endered society at once pleasant and agreeable. She soothed the afflicted wi ih her generous sympathy ; visited the i>oor in their distress; and in time of gene- ral sickness busied herself in personal visits and ten- der enquiries. It may be said that these encomiums on the character of a Governor and his spouse are unbecoming the pages of a guide-book; but it must be pleaded, that a singular instance of excellence in a ruling mind like that of Sir WUliam Reid is so sel- dom met with, that it is well to record in the history of a colony so bright an example of public as well as private worth. Captain Charles P:iliott, R. N., succeeded Sir William Reid, being sworn in Dec. 26, 1846. It was during Governor Elliott's administration, but while he was on leave in the summer of* 1853, that a sad visitation of yellow fever occurred, which soon be- came epidemic, and owing to bad sanitary arrange- ments and intemperance, the troops, especially at St. George's, suffered to an alarming extent. Europeans generally were attacked by it ; and two acung gover- nors. Colonel Phillpotts and Robe, fell victims within the short space of one Aveek ; and Major Oakley, of HISTORY. 3' the 5(5111 Regt., who was then sworn in on the decease of the latter officer, very nearly succumbed to the disease a few days later. This fever, like all visita- tions of the kind occurring before or since, was introduced by vessels from the West Indies. Capt. EUiott was succeeded by Lieut.-Col. Freeman Murray, Oct. 3rd, 1854 ; and he was in turn succeeded by Lieut.-Col. Ord, R. E., whose tenure of office was rendered memorable by the visit of H. R. H. Prince Alfred, then serving as midshipman in tho "Nile" flagship of Rear Admiral Sir Alexander Milne, K. C. B., April, 1862. As a memorial of this visit of royalty to Bermuda, the Prince was invited to plant a cedar tree in the grounds of the Public Building, which has grown well, and is now about twelve feet in height, being known as " Prince Alfred's Tree." Sir F. R. Chapman, a nephew of Sir Stephen Chapman, who was governor from 1836 to 1839, succeeded Col. Ord. In July, 1869, arrived the Bermuda floating Dock, which has proved of much benefit to the navy as well as mercantile marine. Then came Sir Thomas Gore Browne as administrator, from September, 13, 1870, to April 22nd, 1871, and on May the 9th of the same year arrived the present governor, Major General Lefroy, C. B., F. R. 8. ; whose tenure of office, has been characterized by'a desire to advance the cause of education, and improve the various public institutions of the colony. His Excellency has also manifested a sincere desire to 38 HISTORY. promote the science of liorticulture in its various brandies ; procuring from different quarters, particu- larly the Royal Gardens at Kew. numerous packets of seeds, trees, shrubs and plants, that might be useful as timber, or for ornamental purposes. At much trouble and expense. His Excellency has succeeded in raising from seed two or three hundred species of such trees and shrubs, which have been presented to different persons, who take an interest in such matters in various parts of the Islands. These trees will doubtless soon acclimatise themselves and form a great addition to the scenery of the country in years to come. Like Sir William Reid, His Excellency has always been known to take especial interest in the meteorology of the Islands, and therefore from the pen of so distinguished a member of the Royal Society, the public will natur- ally look forward with much interest for the appear- ance of a work upon the subject. The Public Records, dating back as far as the first settlement of the Islands, which, for many years had been allowed to remain in a shameful state of decay, through want of the most ordinary attention ; liaA^e been happily saved by the forethought of his Excellency ; who has been engaged year by year endeavoring to ^decipher the almost illegible M.S., and with his own hand copy out and arrange the whole for the binder. In future j^ears, when the historian seeks matter for ;- work upon the early history of the colony, he will lind much here to throw light upon the subject ; and ST. OEOROe's. 31) will havo good cause to remombor the efforts of Iliy Excellency to save such valuable docuiueuts IVoij} total destruction. ITINERARY. ST. GEORGE'S. This was once the chief town of the islands and residence of the governor. The Ilquse of Assembly and all the public offices concentrated here, but from its position it was considered as unsuitable for the capital ; so Hamilton, which is more centrally situate, was chosen in its stead about the latter part of the last century. The town has nothing to recommend it in the way of appearances ; the streets are so narrow that in places two portly persons would almost jostle each other in passing. They were constructed when carriages were unknown on the islands, and so they remain, and will doubtless remain until necessity compels the inhabitants to adopt a more improved style of architecture. These narrow streets, winding up the hill on which much of the town is built ; with their gardens hemmed in by high walls, over which hang different species of cacti, with papaws, bananas, and plantains towering above, and here and there the graceful form of the 40 ST. George's. I palmetto surmounting the whole ; will remind the visitor of a small Spanish or eastern town. It was from Sir George Somers, that the place took its name, whose tomb was in existence, as we learu from history, about the commencement of the eighteenth century. It stood, there is no doubt, in a niche in the wall of the old government house gar- den, for in an ancient deed now in existence, held by a gentleman in the town, a clause is inserted directing that the wall immediately around the tomb shall be kept in proper repair. Until very recently, nearly covered with weeds and rubbish, there existed a slab of slate-stone at this spot, which bore the following inscription : CHARLO'lTE HOPE Posuit JOHANNE HOPE, Praefectus 24 June, x726. which was probably placed over Sir George's dilapi- dated tomb by this lady, who was wife of the gover- nor for the time being. One object of interest at St. George's is the old parish church, which is dedicated to St. Peter. It contains one or two marble tablets remarkable for age, and the quaint phraseology of former daj's. That to the "good governor Popple" we commena to the notice of the visitor ; as also that to the unfor- tunate governor Campbell. To obtain a good view of the harbor and surrounding country, the visitor -m\ David's island. 41 should proceed, cither up to the Signal Station or Barrack Hill, from which will be obtained an exten- sive prospect. Not far beyond the barracks, and eastward of them, is a small cove on the northern shore, known as "Buildings Bay," said to be the place where Sir George Somers had his cedar vessel in which he proceeded to Virginia, built. There are three or four strong forts commanding the channel through the reefs on the north side, w'hich are well worth seeing. Old Fort, at the entrance to St. George's harbor. Fort Victoria, and Fort Albert behind the barracks, and Fort Catherine. Ordnance Island, which stands alone inshore near the landing steps, at the Market Square, was formerly a small rocky ledge, but now it is nearly covered with build- ings containing a large amount of ammunition, as well as offices for the Royal Engineer Department. DAVID'S ISLAND, forming the southern boundary of St. George's Harbour, is well worth a visit ; for although it is not extensive, yet the pretty morsels of scenery occurring in almost every pan; of it, especially on the side looking over Castle Harbour, are nowhere to be sur- passed. It is here that some of the best arrow-root to be obtained in Bermuda is grown and manufac- tured ; and this island also furnishes most of the pilots who hail from the east end of the islands. There is a whalehouse here which is now, however. 42 CASTLE HARBOUR. rarely used, as the whale fishery has been much neglected of late ye^rs. In its many pretty little baj's and inlets, a variety of shells and sea weeds may be obtained, and many a sea anemone (actinia') of lovely hue, may be seen expanding its living blossom in the clear shallow water, where the gaily coloured fishes are roving in schools ; and numbers of crusta- ceans and echinoderms are crawling over the white sandy bottom, which renders their forms wonderfully conspicuous. , CASTLE HARBOUR. Taking a boat from St. George's, a ver}^ pleasant day may be spent in sailing about this charming sheet of water, the beauties of which, on a bright sunny day, with sufficient breeze to ripple the surface of the azure waters, are not to be excelled in any part of the world. Whiche^'er way you looli; the eye falls upon scenes of the most picturesque char- acter ; diminutive in size it is true, yet nevertheless miniature gems of nature. The day's work should commence by a visit to Castle Island, which com- mands the entrance to the harbour. Although the visitor cannot land upon the island, except at one spot on its southern side, yet in passing, he will per ceive the ruins of what, many j-ears ago, was a foi of some importance, called "The King's Castle. The island is about 270 yards long by 90 broad. ] is a lonely desolate spot, the home of the lizard an prickly pear {opimiia) . As .sailing along for Sout;. CASTLE HARBOUR. 43 nmpton Tslantl, wliieli is the next to attract attention, tlie entrance channel to Castle Harbour will be cross- ed ; showing how intricate the passage must have been for the large West Indian mail steamers, which made this harbour their port of entry, for some few years after 1842. Southampton Island was also for- tified for the same purpose as Castle Island. Nearly opposite Southampton Island, but at some Mttle distance from the shore on the south side, stands "Gurnet Rock," an isolated mass, very interesting to an ornithokgist, from its being almost the only spot in the Bermudas where that rare bird the dusky shearwater {PiiJ/inus obscurus) breeds, which is evi- dently the curious bird mentioned by Capt. John Smith in his account of the Bermudas (which is included in his "History of Virginia") about two centu. 's ago, under the name of the "cahow." The rock cannot be landed upon in safety, owing to the almost continued swell of the ocean ; and many are the hair breath 'scapes that have occurred when enthusiastic naturalisfc. ivho are somewhat rare in the Bermudas, have daringly attempted the task. The last effort was made by Lieut. Reic", R. E. about two years ago: Getting as near as possible in the boat, he had to make a spring just as the swell hited her up the side of the rock ; but although he luckilj^ succeeded in making good his footing, he received some severe bruises from the jagged nature of the surface. His embarkation was happily effected with- oiit injury, and hu hud tiie pleasure of carrying home 44 MUI.LET BAY. a fine young specimen of the bird which he had secured. After passing Southampton Island, the western shore of Nonsuch Island comes in view. This island now belongs to the Military Department. Several species of the smaller shells may be obtained in the sandy bays of its southern shore. Cooper's Island next claims attention, and the visitor will not regret landing and roaming about it for an hour or two, as there is much to be seen and many shells and seaweeds to be found ; as well as a few interesting plants growing on the sandy hillocks, which are suqh conspicuous features in its scenery. If the day should be calm instead of breezy, the visitor will do well to pay attention to the curious objects beneath t'.e waters of the harbour. The bottom is every where studded with reefs, on which grow corals, gorgonias, sponges, &c., in profusion, and if the boat be provided with a pair of long handled nippers, any quantity of specimens may be obtained. MULLET BAY. About half a mile from St. George's is Mullet Bay one of the many pretty little inlets with which the islands are everywhere indented. In its centre will be seen a small island, which is now connected with the land by a wooden bridge. , ! THE CAUSEWAY, ETC. 45 STOCK'S POINT. Past Mullet Bay and forming its western shore, runs out towards Castle Harbor, an irregular promontory known as Stock's Point. At the extreme end of this point, and situate in a pretty nook, is the residence of Mr. J. T. Bartrara ; whose collection of stuffed birds and fishes, has been looked upon for years as one of the 'hons' of Bermuda. It is the only collection of its kind in the islands, and is certainly well worth seeing ; as it contains many rare specimens which have been taken here ; and the owner himself moreover, who has passed some thirty or more years in Bermuda, '« a good example of a hearty English- man ; and although advanced in years, is still in what naturalists would term " a fine state of preservation." THE CAUSEWAY. Until 1871, the only way of gaining the main island from St. George's, was by boat across the narrow entrance channel from the north side into that part of Castle Harbour called ' ' The Reach." During lieavy northerly gales, the passage was extremely hazardous, and many narrow escapes were chronicled each winter season . During the height of a gale, and indeed generally for some hours after it had ceased, owing to the heavy swell rushing in here, all com- munication was stopped, greatly to the inconvenience of the inhabitants civil and military. To the delight of all classes, tho. nrospint. p.nnsnwn^r woq pr».ic,f,.i,^.f^,] 4G WALSINOIIAM OAVES. Hi It eotnmonoea near Stock's Point, wliere an iron 8winf5 bridge 123 feet long spans the channel through which moderate sized crui't proceed from St. George's harbour to tlie nortli side, thereby saving the lengthened voyage all round the north side of St. George's Island. This bridge was constructed in England and sent out in pieces. The whole cost of the causeway was about £28,000 or $140,000. That part of it which runs along Long Bird Island is especially smooth and good to travel upon, anil is not so much exposed to the force of heavy northerly gales as that paKt which connects Walsingham with the island, the passage of which part in heavy weather is somctimos alarming to passengers in uncovered vehicles, the water dashhig in sheets completely over the way. Just at the end of the causeway, on the Walsingham side, is a deep pool which is known as " Blue Hole," in './hich several kinds of fish may be seen disporting themselves in the clear water, and if the sun bo bright, and one or two angel fish in the company, the sight is worth stopping to look at. WALSINGHAM CAVES. About a quarter of a mile ui) the hilly road which leads from the causeway towards Hamilton, stands a small wooden shed on the left hand ; while on the right, a rough and narrow road is seen, which leads to the famous caves which have afforded for many years the most singular scenes to be met with in the Bermudas. It would take pages to describe properly I i WALSmoiTAM. 47 m iron throuj^li leorge's ng the of St. icted ill cost of . That iland is cl is not l y gales rith the lather is covered ely over on tlie lown as may be , and if li in the at. d which stands a ! on the oh leads )r many th in the properly the various portions of these subterranean recesses, which present the usual api)earance of stalactitic halls and spacious chambers floored with transparent waters, on which no boat has ever yet been launched to explore the unknown regions of darkness beyond. Possibly many a cave yet remains to be discovered, which will far exceed in grandeur anything now known ; but the present caves are quite sufllcient to afford as much toilsome travel as the sitor would probably like to undergo. It may not U^ out of place here to suggest, that all persons should refrain, as far as possible, from injuring the stalactites ; which tend so nnich to render portions of the caves more interesting than others. WALSINGIIAM. Few, if any, of the visitors to these islands, ever leave them without paying one or more visits to tliis classic locality, through \/ lose sylvan glades the bard of Erin loved to roam, ar.i who has immortalized it in his musical verse. Bereft of all sentimental feelin<'- nuist he be, who can recline beneath the shade of the old calabash tree, surrounded by the charms which nature has afforded the pretty spot in which it grows, and recall to mind the famous ode the poet here penned to his friend Atkinson, «• 'Twas thus by the shade of a cnlabash tree With a few wlio could think and remember like me;" without also ^ecalliug to mind the gifted author of " Lalla Hookh " and the " Irish Melodies." 48 WALSINGHAM. It was in 1803 that Moore visited Bermuda, havino- been presented with the lucrative post of Registrar of the Court of Vice- Admiralty ; but the 'distant and sechided isle ' was too far from the busy world of gaiety he had left behind in the metroi^lis of Eno-- land ; and after a residence of a few m nths he tool his departure, leaving a deputy to do Is work, who knowing well the character he had to deal with, took sufficient advantage of poor Moore to pocket all his large salary, and still more, to leave him in the end a debtor to the imperial treasury for a large amount. Ihe grounJ.s about Walsingham are by far the most picturesque in the islands; presenting a singular enastic appearance of broken rocks, caverns^and ponds, interspersed with grassy patches and thickets in which numerous kinds of trees and shrul)s mat their foliage witli that of the orange and lemon. Here may found species of plants unknown in any other part of the islands, and in the clear waters which occur in almost every cavern mouth, the most bi-ilhant hued fishes may l,e seen, displaying their elegant forms in the blaze of the noon day sun. The colfee tree grows luxuriantly at Walsingham, and a climbing jasmine overruns Ijoth rocks and trees profusely. The soil of this district is different to that of other parts, being of a bright ])rlck red, and analysis i>rovcs it to difler also in its nature. PAYNTEPt VALE. 4U PAYNTER VALE. Not far from Walsingbam, and snugly ensconced in a grove of fine old trees, lies all that remains of the old homestead of the Paynter family. Years ago it presented a far different aspect, for the house was capacious, and the garden and shrubbery traversed with well kept walks and lawns; while a neat boundary wall ran along the public road the whole extent of the estate. Now, how changed all appears ; the house a complete ruin, with ferns growing out of the crevices, and bananas, papaws and cedars hem- ming in its remains on every side. Near what was formerly the principal entrance gate, stands a magni- ficent fiddle-wood tree ( Citliarexijlum) , the parent of all the fiddle-wood trees in Bermuda. It was brought, as we are informed by Captain William Peniston, from Barbadoes about the j^ear 1829, and planted here. Under its lofty and wide spreading branches, a cool refreshing breeze is nearly always to be felt. The old house in which the l*aynter family resided for seveial years, was latterly the residence of Archdeacon Spencej-, afterwards Bishop of Jamaica ; whose wife was a grand-daughter of Mr. John Paynter, the last member of the family to reside here. A little east of the ruined house, an avenue of tall tapering cedars, leads to the old burial place of the family, which has recently been covered over with blocks of stone to prevent desecration. Climbing a steep hill near by, the visitor finds himself in full view oO PAYNTER VALE, 4 of Harrington Sonnd, wi^l: tlio Flatts Bridge nnd village in the distance , while a little higher he will find a patch of red gronnd, on which it is said nothing in the shape of vegetation has ever been known to grow. Abont eighty yards northwards of this patch, and situate in the adjoining wood, is a small cave ; known as "Chalk Cave ;" in which an old negro woman named " Sue," lived for some years, and kept a pig in a small sty at the entrance. This cave is difficult to find, and if possible a guide should be procured, as several crevices occur in the rocky ground leading to it, into which a careless step might lead to severe injury ; and the whole thicket is so matted and over- run with creepers, that the nature of the ground is rendered invisible, making the search doubly hazardous. On returnmg and recrossing the red patch, there will be seen on the left hand a deep hollow called " Plantain Hole," in which coffee, myrtle, wild cherry, fiddle wood, and other trees are growing and entwiu' ing their branches together. This is a charming spot, and well worth the trouble of descending, in order to look at the colfec trees j'.rowing in a state of nature. After leaving this cavernous depression, and ascending the steep hill above for a short distance the visitor will come suddenly in view of Castle Harbour, with all its lovely scenery lying at his feet. Descend- ing the slope before him and arriving at the sliore, he will find himself near the Government Limestone (Quarry, from which iargc blo(tks of compavt stone TAYNTER VALE. Ol liave been taken for building fortifications, &c. Turning to the right lie will see a house, now used as a canteen, which was built by Capt. John Paynter about the year 1 750, for the purpose of storing cargoes ; and opposite which his vessels anchored. About seventj yards to the south-east of the storehouse is a cave called "Cooper's Hole" well worth a visit. This was used as a store house also when the other was full. Returning northwards along the margin of the water, the visitor will perceive a current of water rushing almost under his feet, which is supposed to flow under the land from Harrington Sound. Still continuing northwards he will soon arrive at a rail fence, which, if he follows along through ferns, myrtle, orange, &c., will bring him to another deep hollow called " Little Plantain Hole." At one time this was over-run with citron and orange trees ; but very few, owing to the great disease of 1854, now remain. Still following the fence, he will again arrive at the ruins of the old Paynter homestead from which he started. Just outside the entrance gate, and across the public road, on the shore of Harrington Sound, will be seen a cavern in the clitf, which goes by the name of " Shark's Hole." If a boat can be obtained, this cavern is well worth investigating, for several species of seaweeds are to be obtained on the rocks on either side ; while in the recesses of the cave l)e3'ond, by the aid of a torch, a beautiful collection of stalactites can be seen. On the north side of the 52 tucker's town. ehannol \oa(\mts lie would explore, Sinall excavations on tlie roeky shore, Thiit seem like fairy haths or mimic wells l^iehly em'jossed with weeds and clioiiest shells. As if iier trinkets N'j-ture chose to hide Where nou D . 65 Bermudas, we can almost confidently state, that if a stranger desires to visit any locality, however pri- vate it may be, for the purpose of enjoying its scenery, or admiring its vegetation, he will hardly find an instance of refusal to a civil request. The Bermudians are proverbially a generous, open-hearted race, who know well how to reciprocate those kindly civilities, which, when interchanged, are so pleasant, alike to giver and receiver. The waters of Peniston's Pond are quite brackish, having communication with the outer sea by under- ground channels. In heavj' Sv. jtherl}^ storms a per- fect stream of water is forced over the shore rocks at the eastern end, giving it the appearance of a natural water course, which is a rare sight in Bermudas except during a heavy rain fall. On the southern shore of this pond, about its centre, and within a few paces of the water, are wells, used for the purpose of watering cattle. The water thej' contain, like all similar excavations throughout the islands, is fresh above, but brackish beneath, as soon as the sea level is reached. This is of course owing to the simple reason that fresh water is lighter than salt. The islanders declare that there are ' ' springs " of fresh water in various places. This is only true to the extent of supply furnished by percolation of rain water to the depth such springs are found in ; a few weeks of drought would be sulllcient to prove the fallacy of the assertion that such sources are really springs. Bermuda, which is merely the peak of a GO SPANISH ROCK. submarine mountain, rising- to a lioio-ht of noai-Ij four miles from the bottom of the ocean, having its whole land area honeycombed throughout above, and most probably far below the level of the sea, can possess no fresh water supply from belou-, and can only rely upon rain falls for the necessary fluid. No' hard water, therefore, is to be had in these islands ; none but what the tanks supply, running- from roofs and smoothed surfaces, constriieted for the purpose. Peniston's Pond is a great resort of Avatcr fowl and waders, which visit Bermuda (hiring the winter- niKl many a rare bird has been obtained bv ornitho- logists in favourable seasons. SPANISH ROCK. A few yards east of the cattle wells spoken of jus<- at the base of the shore hills, an open grassy ^atch will be seen, having a mud hole about its V-entre After passing this, proceed up tiirougli the cedar grove in front, and immediately at the top a little pathway will be seen leading to the clilf beyond. Care must be taken on approaching this predpice, for If a false step be made, there is iiothin'ht sunny days, witli hor rosea and pfomnuuns in iill bloom, instilled new life into his frame. Strength indeed, must the balmy breezes and genial tempera- ture have given him, for his daily work was great. l?ising very early, he would spend a few hours busily occupied in his pretty little garden, which adjoined his residence at the corner next to Trinity Church.* Man}' a handsome flower which now blooms there, owes its existence to his care and attention, and very probably the care now bestowed upon other gardens in Hamilton, ma}' owe their origin to the example of industry set by Mr. Freer in years gone by. The trim appearance that garden presented under his labours was the theme of universal admiration. Not a weed was there to be seen ; everything bore the stamp of neatness and order. And then when the bell of Trinity Church proclaimed the hour of Morning Prayer, no ordinary sickness would prevent his attendance daily to the duties of the sanctuary. His school, which was conducted in a masterly manner, next occupied his time ; and how faithfully he endeavoured to instil learning into the minds of his pupils, none know better than they, who now occupied in the business of the world, have good reason to recollect his kindh' efforts to impart to them useful as well as religious knowledge. Would that the church could number among its ministers, * I'lic propiTty WM^ after bis cloafh, pur.iliasp.'l by that noble li(>art«cl cliri-tiuii 1 ulv, .\lrH. .loliiison, of NowloiiKilhiiul, who pra-iciilcd it to tln" cliiircli, to bo iKoil iu ti ivsiUence for the bisli 'p Ouriiij; Iiiu vUiU Ill'lV. /<> HAMILTON. many as ojood and faithful as this truly iiumble and devott'd servant of the Lord ; wlio, guided alone by a desire to live to His glory, measured not his work by his strength, but freely exhausted himself in his Master's cause. He returned to England for the benefit of his health early in 1865, taking up his residence at his much loved College of St. Augustine ; where, gradually succumbing to a pulmonary disease of long standing, he breathed his last ; to the sincere grief, not alone of his family and friends, but of every one who had had the pleasure of his acquaintance. Not far from Trinity Church, and situate on the same hilly range to the westward, is the " Hamilton Hotel," built by the corporation of the town for the purpose of affording more extensive accommodation for visi*^^ors. It is well built, and from its command- ing position, i)resents a fine appearance. On a hill east of Trinity Clmrch, will be seen a by no means sightly building, or one becoming its elevated situation. This is the " Session's House," haying on its basement floor the Court House, in which the assizes are held; and above, the " House of Assembly." It was erected in 1822. Below the hill on which the Sessions House stands, is the " Public l^uilding," erected in 1839. Here is the "Custom House," "Colonial Office," "Public Library," "Council Cham!)cr," &e. ; while on the landing of the upper staircase, are a few cases, con- tfiining enough natural history specimens, to make I ' 1 ♦ T " imble and I alone by : his work self in his )fit of his ice at his gradually standing, 't alone of a had had te on the Hamilton 'n for the modation ommand- seen a by lining its i House," louse, in " House e stands, Here is "Public e on the JOS, con- to make HAMILTON. 77 the visitor regret, that the inhabitants do not possess sufficient enterprise to estaWish a museum ; where hours might be spent by those, who, benefitting the islands by their presence, naturally look for some source of intellectual amusement in return. No place in the world presents the facilities Bermuda does for the collection of marine specimens ; and as nearly all could be preserved in alcohol, and ex- hibited in glass jars; requiring no attention for years after being placed in position, there is less excuse for the omission. It is hoped, however, that ere long the tide of improvement will at last reach ' the remote Bermudas,' and that institutions gener- ally estabUshed in other communities for their benefit and satisfaction, will be considered necessary in this. The small area in which the Public Building stands, is tastefully planted with trees, one of which*^ a cedar, was planted by the Duke of Edinburgh (Prince Alfred) in May, 1802. The memorial obe- lisk to Governor Reid also stands near. At the wQst end of the town, on tho rig!it*hand of the street which leads from the Hamilton Hotel to the steamboat wharf, will be seen crrbosomod in trees " Par-le-vHle," the residence of the Perot fomily. Immediately in front of the house grows a magnifi- cent cxan)i)le of the Indian rubber tree {i^cm elastim) while in the grounds behind, grow several tropical fruit trees which bear abundantly. The '' Hamilton Club," situate u> Front Street, is a capacious house, i)osses3i.ig from its verandah a 78 HAMILTON*. fine view of the liarhoi', nnd the opposite hil*s of Paget ; and also those of Port R03 al* Although the population of Bermuda exceeds 14,- 000 ; and has considerable trade with London, New York, Canada, and the West Indies ; it does not possess a banking establishment of an}^ description ; which to sa}' the least of it, is a very great incon- renicnce to strangers visiting the islands. So great Is the amount of silver coinage, that it is common to see bills amounting to 20 or £30 paid in this metal ; and we know an instance of a mortgage of £208 being paid entirely in Silvdr ; of which no less than £3G was in sixpenny pieces. It took the Unfortunate mortgagee ; who, to add to his troubles, had to darry the Avhole in a bjig for the distance of three milds ; several hours to count it in. We will now supi)ose tliat the visitor is desirdiis of proceeding in a westerly direction to see the dtlier portion of the group. There are several interesting localities within walking distance of Hamilton which will well repay the trouble taken in reaching them. Let him proceed along the public rood going to the eastward, skirling the shore of Hamilton harbour, and before he arrives at tlie end of the harl)oi1r, hvi will perceive four fine specimens of the cabbage palm ( Oreodoxa olemcea) with trunks as smooth as ivory, and bearing above, the curious buneli of f'oliage, which, from its resemblance to the vcgctilbh' * : ll.MIILtOX. 70 m question, has given the tree its name. It i:5 a rare tree in Bermuda, but common in the mountains of the West Indian islands, where it is not unusual to ned it rear its head far above those of the surrounding' forest trees. One or two specime)is of the cdcdanut palm ( Cocos nucifera) are also to be seen here ; as well as numerous shrubs, all natives of the West Indies. The property on which they grow, which possesses a very prettily situated residence, em- bosomed in trees, belongs to Mr. and Mrs. Reil. At the end of the wall which skirts this property^ will be seen in a cottage garden, a tree possessing to all appearances crimson leaves. This is the fire plant or burning bush {Poinciana pidcherrima) and the gaily coloured leaves will be found to be merely the elongated petals of the flower. At the bend of the road round the harbour head^ and immediately by the guard wall, in the dark offensive lookin A^ '^ Fliotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 % '*?>'• 88 THE LIGHTHOUSE, similar doom. Immediately to the southward of the light, and close in shore, is the "South-west Breaker," marked by a line of foam, at low tide ; and then the long stretch of reefs which hug the shore eastward to Castle Harbour, where Gurnet Rock is seen on the water, looking like a vessel's sail ; while all around, north, south, east, and west, the scene is bounded alone by the distant horizon. Small, indeed, is the spot we inhabit on the wild waste of waters, far removed from nearest land ; nor is our feeling of security the more confirmed, when stationed at the summit of this lighthouse, to witness the effect of some heavy gale ; when the roUing seas, which have been unimpeded in their course for hundreds of miles, thunder against the shore ; and the force of the tempest makes the whole fabric vibrate from its very foundation. Well may we exclaim in the words of the poet : — Beautiful, sublime and glorious ; Mild, majestic, foaminff, free, — Over time itself victorious. Image of eternity. Such thou art — stupendous ocean ! Butifoverwhelm'd bythee, Can we think without emotion, What must thy Creator be ? There are some very pretty little coves under the lighthouse, having their shores irregularly indented by rocks which have in some places become detached from the cliffs above. Upon these rocks, and on the sides of the cUffa, grows a pretty species of stock fOUT ROYAL CHURCH. 89 {Mattldola)^ and in holes burrowed in the more frial/le rock, the tropic bird {Phaeton) makes its nest. Several species of sea weeds can be collected about the shore, and the conchologist must not for- get that it, was under stones at this locality, where the Rev. J. B. Freer, in 1861, discovered the fine Pupa, an inch in length, which has never been taken since. PORT ROYAL CHURCH. About half a mile from the lighthouse, stands Port Royal, or Southampton parish church ; in a very exposed situation near the verge of the cliffs which overhang the south shore. If the visitor would hke to attend the services of the church in a retired and lonely spot, where, awa}'^ from the busy haunts of man, and the distracting influence of folly or fashion, he could join in the simple, yet touching ceremonies, which ought to characterize the worship of our ven- erable religion ; then let him proceed to this unadorn- ed and primitive "church of the hills," and procuring a seat by one of the open windows looking out upon the wide ocean, cast his eye over the limitless expanse. No worldly thoughts can occupy his mind when thus looking upon this, one of the fairest and grHndest of Nature's scenes. The sight is a sermon in itself. The troubled waters breaking on the reefs below, so characteristically pourtrayiug the vexed cares and sorrows of this world ; while the far off line whic'li melts into the hazy sky and marks the 90 PORT ROYAL CHURCH. uncertain limit of the distant horizon, may be con- sidered no unsuitable simile of the boundless region of eternity. There are some very interestinoc records bv longing to this parish church (now in course of rebinding) bearing date so far back as 1639, as for example : "1639. An inventory of the plate, pewter, orna- ments, and other things belonging to Port Royal church, in Southampton Tribe, m the Sumers Islands, taken Anno Dom. 1639, &c. "1716. At a parish meeting this 24 of September at Jno. Jennings' Esq., voted that the suni of nine- teen pounds or thereabouts shall be given towards the beginning of the building of a church in this Parish by the assessors hereunder mentioned, or the major part of them, &c." The church was enlarged by the addition of two aisles in 1826, and was consecrated on April 30, same year, being dedicated to St. Anne, by the Bishop of Nova Scotia (Dr. Inglis) , and the church- yard was also consecrated on the same day. The graveyard was added to and consecrated by the Bishop of Newfoundland (Dr. Field) in the year 1866.* * For the above and subsequent information regarding SomerRet Church, we are indebted to tlie kindness of the Itev. C V. Iv. Coorabo, Ecclesiastical Commissary, Hud Rector of both these Parishes. SOJfERSET BRIDGE. SOMERSET BRIDGE 91 connects the island of Somerset or Sandy's with the main island. Immediately east of the bridge, on the right hand, will have been observed a large mansion in a grove of trees. This, known as the " Bridge House," was formerly the homestead of the Tucker family, but has not been occupied for several years. To the westward of the bridge, on a neck of land which protects the waters of Elis Harbour from the ocean swell without, rises ''Vreck Hill"; so named frorn its being the spot from which the best view of the western reefs could be obtained ; which have always been consid^'red the most dangerous of all the reefs surrounding the islands. Here in days of yore, long before the morning which succeeded a tempestuous night, dawned upon the scene; the hardy fishermen and pilots of the neighbourhood would congregate, on the look out for wrecks ; which frequently afforded them an opportunity of exhibiting their maritime skill ; as well as a speedy means of replenishing their household stores, in times, when the luxuries of life were exceedingly scarce in these remote isles. ELIS HARBOUR. A perfect little gem of an inlet, which to be seen in its greatest perfection, should be visited on a bright sunny day, when its waters appear of the lightest emerald tint. But at any time it is beautiful ; 02 SOJiERSElT Cin^RCH. SO calm and peaceful does it lie surrounded by its rocky shores, clothed almost to the water's edge with the evergreen foliage of the scented cedar. SOMERSET CHURCH. About half a mile from Elis Harbour, stands thd parish church of Somerset, formerly known as Sandy's. Like most of the churches of Bermuda, it has nothing in appearance to recommend it to notice. Nothing is known in regard to the old church which existed on the same spot prior to 1783; but from the parish records we find that the present structure was commenced about 1789, and was at intervals of several years added to as occasion required. In 1826, it was consecrated, together with the church- yard, by the Bishop of Nova Scotia (Dr. Inglis) being dedicated to St. James. The church was further enlarged about the j-ear 1836," by thb build- ing two wings along the north and south sides of the church to extent thirteen feet from the present walls r so that with the vestr}' room on the north side, and a .com corresponding on the south side, at the west end of the church, these wings may enclose the entire sides of the church." In the churchyard may be seen a tombstone to the memory of a Miss Maclaine, whose epitaph was written by Captain Parry, R. N., the celebrated arctic navigator. I WATFOflD AND BOAZ ISLANDS. 93 MANGROVE BAY. At th8 extremity of Somerset Island lies Manc^rove Bay, so named from the number of those trees which formerly grew around its margin. The scenery is very pretty hereabouts, although the land Is almost level with the water. A boat excursion about the Bay and the adjoining shores, would reveal many inte/-. estmg forms to the naturalist; especially amon. tlie submerged rocks near shore ; where coral, ^or^ gomas, and several species of sea weeds, find a resting-place. On the other side of the neck of land which divides Mangrove Bay from the ocean, lies a stretch of sandy beach well worth examining; for as It hes open to the heavy westerly gales, some fine specimens of sponges and sea weeds are often cast ashore. WATFORD AND EOAZ ISLANDS, connect Somerset with Ireland Island, and do not contain much to interest tlie visitor, as their surfaces have been partially levelled by convict labour, durino- the time that Bemuda was unhappily burdened b; the p,-esence of the worst of criminals transported from the mother country. In the former island is situate the old burial ground of the convicts, where many a felon has found a last restmg pkee far aw,.y from the scenes of his crime. On Boaz Island the principal barracks and stores for the convicts were established ; but some w, ,c quar- 94 IRELAND ISLE. tercd at Ireland ; and when their numbers increased to too great an extent to allow of accommodation on land, they were distributed among old men-of-war hulks at anchor off shore. At the time of the yellow fever epidemic in the summer of 1853. there were no less than IGOO con- victs on the islands, 152 of whom succumbed to the .disease. IRELAND ISLE. Probably the most important position in the Ber- mudas is Ireland Isle ; which, although not much more than a njile in length, or a quarter of one in breadth, contains the dockyard, and other establishments connected with the Royal Navy. The Camber, which is a dock sheltered from the usual swell of the ocean by an excellent breakwater, has proved of great service to the niany war vessels that continually visit Bermuda. But the principal feature of attraction is of course "the Great Bermuda Dock," a floating mass of iron, the largest structure of the kind in the world. It was constructed for the i)urpose of dr3'-docking Her Majesty's war vessels in need of repair Avhile on the station, and is so large that vessels of the first class can be taken up with ease, with everything on board. The dock, which is of iron was built in England, and left that country for its destination in June, 1800, being towed across the Atlantic by t\yo powerful men-of-war, with a small one astern to steer by. After a very smooth passage of twenty-fiye THE NAVAL CEMETERY. 05 iicrcasetl ution on ii-of-war c in the 300 con- d to the the Rer- ich more breadth, shments Janiber, 11 of the of great illy visit iction is ng mass e world, docking kvhile on the first :hing on built in ation in by two tern to nty-fiye days, this enormous mass made the Bennudas, and after a time was safely placed in the bed prepared for it, which was an excavation to the depth of fifty-four feet below low water; and no less than 1,200,000 cubic feet of sand and coral debris was removed for that purpose. The "Royal Naval Hospital" stands on a hill immediately above the dockyard, while beneath, occupying a large space of ground, prettily orna- inented by cedar groves and smooth grassy glades, is Tf rilE NAVAL CEMETERY. Here ^ several melancholy memorials ; some to . 'cers ' I c)3ws of men of war which sailed from erin Ui" and were lost at sea; and others to young officers v.f nary or army, whose lives were cut short ere they began their worldl} career. One monument from its simplicity commands attention. It is an irregular block of Bermuda stone placed upright on an equally irregular base ; bearing on one of its rough Sides, a simple inscription, denoting that it was erected to the memory of four officers of H. M. S. "Winchester," lost on passage to England in the packet " Calypso" in January 1833. There is also a memorial stone to the memory of the officers and crew of H. M. Ships "Acorn" and "Tempest," which acting as mail packets between Halifax and Bermuda; singular to relate, left their respective h'tA 96 THE NAVAL CEMErERY. ports at the same time, and were never heard of afterwards. Three admirals lie buried here. 1, Sir Edward Griffith Colpoys, who died Nov. 9, 1832. — 2, The Honble. Sir Charles Paget, (a brother of the Mar- quis of Anglesea, the Waterloo hero) who died at sea Jan. 29, 1839.— 3, Sir Thomas Harvey, who died May 28, 1841. If the published accounts regarding the death of Sir Charles Paget be true, and v/e have never heard them disputed, they are sufficiently curious to be insened here. It appears that in the early part of January 1839, Sir Charles left Jamaica in H. M. Steamer "Tartarus" to proceed to Bermuda for the benefit of his health ; he being ill of yellow fever at the time. But for five weeks the steamer could not find the islands ; having no chronometers on board, and being unable to make out the latitude. At last the discovery was made that the steamer had passed Bermuda ; and it finally arrived safely at its destination. But the anxiety and delay, superadded to sickness was too much for the admiral, and only his moral remains reached the Somers' Islands. IIow it hapoened that an English war vessel, and that with the admiral commanding the station on board, was allowed to go to sea without a chrono- meter ; is an event so extraordinary, that we are almost inclined to doubt the truth of such a statement. \ r - THE ISLANDS IN THE SOUND. 97 At the extremity of Ireland Island, and looking over the sea, stands a large and conspicuous building having a verandah running all around it. This is *'The Commissioner's House" which was built at the expense of the English government about the year 1828, for an olHcer styled "The Commissioner"; who was sent out to superintend the Dockyard establishment. It was found, however, that an exalted personage ; with a splendid salary, and a palatial residence ; was not required in so small a place as Bermuda ; and in a few years, this building which is said to have cost no less a sum than £90,000 sterling in its erection, was suffered to remain untenanted and fall into decay. It is now used as quarters for the military stationed at Ireland Island. The anchorage ground opposite Ireland, on its east side, where one or two men of war are generally to be seen, is known as " Grassy Bay." There is an old lady, now living in Bermuda, aged 93 ; who well recollects the time, when Ireland and Boaz were inhabited by fishermen ; who lived in huts made of boughs of cedar, and brush for sides, and having the roofs thatched with palmetto leaves. THE ISLANDS IN THE SOUND. The large sheet of water, which is enclosed by the curve of the land running from Paget Parish to Ireland Island, is known as "The Great Sound." It contains several islands, generally of small size, Ill saamm 98 THE ISLANDS TN THE SOUND. but the larger ones arc very picturesque. Tucker's Island, which lies close in shore near Somerset Bridge is well worth a visit ; and the visitor should not omit to notice a lovely little cavern upon it. Grace, Ricket, Burtt, and Darrell Islands, which run in a line with the previous island, are of small size, and hirdly worth visiting. Tatem's Island lies about the middle of the sound, and Port's Island nearer in to Hamilton harbour. This latter island >,-as used as a quarantine station formerly, and possessed a hospital and graveyard , in which many victims of yellow fever have found a resting place. Until recently, close to the landing place was nailed upon a board, a piece of canvas, on which was painted by some jolly tars, lines to record the fact of their having been kept there during an outbreak of yellow fever, on board II. M. S. "Malacca." The first two lines ran as follows : — " 'Twr.s here the crew of the Malacca Drank their ale and smoked their bacca; " odd enough, this island has always been a popular resort of picnic parties ; and the very apartments which the fever-stricken patents have lived and died in, have been used again and again for dance and refection. It is certainly a pretty spot ; but an air of melancholy pervades its whole extent. There are two monuments here which tell their own tale of sorrow and suffering. One of granite bears the following inscription ; SPANISH T»OTNT. 99 In memory of Messieurs Grateau, Surgeon in chief -'71)10 Suzanne," Ensigne, and nine of tlio crew of tlift Frencli frigate, " L'Armide ", wlio died of yellow fever in this island in August 1 352, and whose remains are interred near this spot. The other monument is m.erely a large block of sandstone, bearing the following epitaph : I. M. Hospital Sergeant 1' "'' Owen, (Pompadours) who devoted to his d; y ilied respected and re- gretted by all whc k / him — Nov. 7, 1853. Also Mary his wife, his infant child, and his Dro- ther Vaul of the same fevor. This stone i& ins. :bed to the memoi7of24 brave soldier* of the /.rlillery and 6Gth Regt., who died at Port's Island of the epederalc fever in the autumn of 1853. Sheep Island, a long narrow strip to seaward of Port's Island, has also headstones to the meraory of several soldiers who lie buried there. Marshal Island, and Godet Island, lie east of the latter, and around their shores may be obtained many fine specimens of sponges, zoophytes, nnd £.mall crustaceans. SPANISH POINT. To the north of this group of islets, in the middle of the Sound, will be seen a promontory, stretching out towards Irelaut; Island. This is known as Spanish Point, and is well worth a visit. It can be reached by road f om Hamilton, being about two miles distant. When a])out half way along the road, 100 SPANISH POINT. if the visitor will take a narrow path which is seen on the left hand, he will be amply rewarded for the break in his journe}- , by suddenly coming upon some of the most charming scenery in Bermuda. The shore is here indented by numerous inlets which have their banks clothed with well grown trees and a verdant carpet of grass beneath. The waters of the sound come rippling in ; and if a pleasant westerly breeze is blowing, there is no cooler or more delight- ful spot to ruralise in than "Point Share" as the locality is named ; doubtless from its including the portion of land marked in Norwood's original map as the Point Share. If Norwood was very exact in his survey of the islands, there certainly have been many changes in the shore lines since his time ; for some] of the islets are now divided by small channels ; while others have become joined together, and some have entirely disappeared. Regaining the road again and proceeding north- wards, a depression in the land will be perceived, with boggy ground on either side. To the right, the Pembroke Marshes commence ; extending all the way to the foot of Prospect Hill ; while to the left, when the level approaches that of the sea outside, grow dense thickets of mangroves, in an almost stagnant, mass of mud. The whole of this marsh area was doubtless once open to the sea, as the investigations of His Excellency General Lefroy in 1872 have proved that the bas'n is lilled l)y decayed vegetable SPANtSH roiNT. 101 matter to a depth of from 40 to 48 feet below the present surface ; while from the bottom has been obtained sand and rounded pebbles, precisely similar to the same material found in all bays and inlets. It will be observed that the depth of this marsh basin corresponds with that of the Great Sound outside. Proceeding up the hill by the road which leads to the left (that on the right leads to Pembroke Church) at about a mile's distance, the visitor will arrive at Clarence Hill, the residence of the Admiral on this station. A little beyond Admiralty House, just on the road- side, occurs a very small cavernous hole ; which has its whole interior lined with the graceful maiden-hair fern ; a very prett}^ object indeed. The view from the face of the hill looking down to the extremity of Spanish Point, and over the water to Ireland Island, is very fine, particularly at lolv tide, when Cobbler's Isle, the Lapstone, and the Stagg's Rocks rise from the foaming waters to guard the pas- sage to the harbour within. The sandstone strata at Spanish Point, eastward on tlie north shore lies horizontally ; particularly in a small inlet near a dilapidated cottage, on the hill near Admiralty House ; and appear when closely looked at, to assume tho character of separate laj'ers of hard sandstone relieved by others of soft friable sand. There are also islets of rock of the same incliuMtion a short distance from the shore ; which present the appearance of having been attached at 102 THE MIDDLE UOAD. some time to the main. They are also honeycombed hy caverns and natural arches of singular aspect. The vegetation upon them consists of a stunted growth of cedar, sage bush, and long grass. Parsley (Apium) grows wild on the rocks about the shore. The rocks at Clarence Cove, just below the Admiral's, are very picturesque ; being hollowed out by the stormy waves of ocean, which year by year slowly but surely commit their work of destruction. THE MIDDLE ROAD. There is a public highway not often traversed by strangers, leading from Hamilton through the par- ishes of Devonshire and Smith's to the Flatt's ; which possesses some very pretty scenery at intervals. About a mile from the town the military station at Prospect is passed on the left hand, and about ano- her mile's distance onwards lies BRACKISH POND, an extensive morass, on the skirts of which grow some fine specimens of cedar trees, while amongst the close thicket of shrubs and palmettos which tenant its interior, some giant ferns and aquatic plants of divers species occur, which are not seen iu the open. In this dense region, the ornithologist will find a good collecting ground ; as owing to the diflSculty of traversing the treachorons bog, hardly any one disturbs the .S(jlitude which almost continually pre- I! bEVONSIlIKE OLD CIIUUCH. 103 vails here. Here also up in the branches of the old cedars, and occasionally in the shrubs around, may be procured the curiousl}'^ constructed nesl of the tree rat {Mus tedorum) , a specie" which was added but recently to the Bermudian fauna by the author. DEVONSHIRE OLD CPIURCH. Hard by the skirtfi of this pond, surrounded by some of the finest cedar trees to be r-een in the islands, stands the old antiquated structure which formerly served as the parish church of Devonshire. It has not been used for some time, or since the new church which stands near was completed, about twenty years ago. This old church was doubtless the successor of that which traaition asserts was standing in 1770; having its roof thatched with palmetto leaves. There is an old cedar tree stand- ing in the churchj-ard, which is said to be the oldest now existing in the islands ; and its appearance cer- tainly justifies the assertion. At the western end of the churchj-ard stand several noble cedars ; which with their wide spreading branches afford a pleasant shade in summer time to the poor horses attached to the vehicles belonging to the members of the con- gregation. Tnese fine trees, were some years ago, doomed to fall beneath the axe of the woodman ; but a public spirited inhabitant of the parish, whose name we cannot withhold — the Hon. J. H. Darrell, ex-chicf justice of Bermuda — i)urcluised the piece of ' to» »» i iii a aijte^ gwta Bii t-ja i 104 DEVONSHIRE OLD CHURCH. DEVONSHIRE NEW CHURCH. ground the}^ occupj' ; and presented it by deed to the parish, on the understanding that the trees were never to be cut down ; so doubtless, unless uprooted by some furious gale, they will long remain to orna- ment the locality ; as well as afford a grateful shelter to the poor dumb animals placed beneath ; and, more- over, will stand as monuments to record to future generations, the liberality of the worthy gentleman who saved them from destruction. The new church, situate close to the old one, is a gotliic edifice of neat appearance, set off to advantage by the luxuriant vegetation of the adjoining swamp. Its interior is very capacious, and possesses a remarkably fine open roof which affords excellent ventilation daring the hot summer months ; indeed, 80MERVILLE. 105 in this respect, with the exception of Trinity Church, Hamilton, it probably surpasses all other churches ia Bermuda. SOMEHYILLE. Ther^ iU*e many pretty private residences in different parts of the Bermudas ; but there is one we cannot help making special allusion to, which, from its peculiarly retired position, and the varied vegeta- tion sun-ounding it, possesses more of the picturesque than perhaps any other dwelling in the islands. It is "Somerville" in Smith's Parish, the residence of Miss Louisa Tucker, about a mile from Devonshire Church. It is truly a spot worth seeing ; for apart fi'om the house itself, which is somewhat romanti- cally placed in a cozy little nook beneath a hill; looking down upon a vdlley filled with choice fruit trees, and others noted for ornamental foliage ; the grounds, and especially the approach from the main road, hemmed in as it is on either side by stately mahoe, fiddlewood, and tulip trees; present the appearance of a botanic garden, more than the precints of a private residence. Miss Tucker, and her niece Miss Mary Peniston Jlre always busily engaged in superintending the improvements to the garden and shrubbery, which accounts for the air of neatness and trimness which characterises the purlieus of this sequestered and charming retreat. ion CLIMATL CLIMATE, Sue. "When the good Bishop Berkeley, to Whom we have aUuded previously, declared that the climate of Ber- muda was " one of equal tenor almost throughout the tv'hole year," he statefd what Was incoiTect ; and had the worthy preldte visited the islands, arid experienced the heat Of a 'Mudian summer ; he Would certainly have given a different account. The months of July, August, and Septertiber are generally verj' warm and oppressive, owing to the prevalence of southerly winds. The islands are too far north to share the cooling influence of the trade Winds; and are too far south to feel the bracing breezes of the north, in summer time ; so thdt they iiijiy be said to iwssess a peculiar climate at that season, whic!h is remarkable for the slight variation which takes place in the diilFUal and nodturnal tem- perature. Biit as the Bermitdian season ia supposed not to commence until November dnd end in May, the visitor will not care to trouble himself about the inconveniences of summer ; a time, when we hope that rtnlidst the congenial pleasures and pastimes of his ha))py northern home, lie will be spending his days both pleasantly and i)rolita]jly, looking forward OLIMATK. 107 iO the time when the steamer will waft him over the waves of the Atlantic to spend a winter in the " distant and secluded isles." The following monthly record of the Bermudian climate which will be found to be fairly correct, will wc trust, prove interesting to the visitor. JANUARY. The month of January is usually characterised by variable weather ; alternate storm and calm. Pleavy rain falls at intervals of a few days; succeeded either by bright hot sun or still haze; a sort of dreamy atmosphere which engenders sleep. It is a cool month on the whole ; the thermometer ranging from 50° to 7G°, but generally standing at G0° to 63°. The prevailing winds are from N. W. to N. E. changing to 8. E. and S. W. during storms. This change to south never ftiils to generate the warm moist atmosphere so much dishked by northern visitors ; begetting a clammy feeling, which can be better imagined than described. If this state of weather should continue for two or three days, it has a visible effect upon every household article that damp heat will spoil. Fresh meat putrifies. Cold cooked meats become coated with a vigorous growth of mould ; and in fact everything in the hrder suffers. Inside the house matters are no better ; the mirrors i-efuse to reflect the features, being coated with vapour. Boots and shoes are covered Avith green 108 CUJtATli. mould, and even articles of clothing suffer greatlj* All, however, soon changes; a sudden coolness is felt; the exclamation becomes general ^'Ah! here Comes the north wind," and in a few hours all damp- ness vanishes and the bracing atmosphere gratifies the feeUngs of old and young. The housewife hangs out the damp clothes, that would soon mildew if left untouched ; the cook looks over the meat and hurries that which will soonest spoil into the oven ; while at the stable, the coachman overlooks the harness which has suffered like the boots and shoes : in fact almost everything except vegetation, which profits by the change ; has to be overhauled and renovated after the southerly vapour bath. Coughs and colds are prevalent this month, among che native Ber Uans ; but as the changes of temperature are neither sudden nor extreme, they rarely affect northern constitutions ; so the most ordinary care will suffice for healthy persons; but for invalids of course the case is different, and proper precautions should be taken not to suffer exposure to the elements. Fires are pleasant at intervals this month. FEBRUARY. Th'^ climate of this month is ver^ similai* to that of January, bat slightly colder ; and a bright cedar wood fire is extremely pleasant at times. CLIMATE. 109 MARCH. This is generally considered by the native Ber- mudians the coldest winter month, and from our own observations we are inclined to believe the truth of the remark. Certain it is, that the lowest degree of temperature has generally been registered during this month. On the 17th March, 1870, the thermometer on the grass at night fell to 38«. On tl. ; two succeeding days, a gale from N. W. to N. occu red, accompanied by hail and sleet ; and on the latter day snow was said to be visible in the air, although it melted before it reached the ground. Hailstones of large size, some fully an inch in diameter, have been known to fall during this month, and the atmosphere becomes so cool after one of t^ese heav}'' hail storms, that the accumulations of hail remain in shady spots for twenty-four hours afterwards. To those who do not dislike "shivering with cold," we would remark that such a condition is easily attainable during the early part of this month. After a day or two of continued northerly gales and when the wind is blowing pretty strong from that quarter, let the cold-seeker take an open carriage and start from Hamilton for the Flatts taking the north shore road. If the dose does not prove sufHcient, by all means let the return journey be over the same route, and if the exi)cu'iinenter be not satisfied with the r'^sult, he iinist indeed be well supplied with an abundance ol' vital fluid of the warmest degree. 110 CLIMATE. Fires will be found vory comfortable at times during the early part of the mouth. The thermometer usually ranges from G0° to G5°. APRIL. April may bo considered the most charming month of the year. The native birds are beginning to nest ; trees are expanding their fresh green leaves ; flowers are scenting the air with exquisite perfume ; and the sweet-scented cedar on especially hot days, gives forth its charming balsamic odour, reminding the wayfarer of the aromatic spice groves of eastern lands. Away in the north the snow-drifts lie deep, or the chilling sleet is driving before the pitiless gale ; while the poor invalid is confined to the darkened chamber, rendered still more gloomy by the dense clouds which everj'where hang from the leaden sky ; while here in these lovely isles of the ocean the troubled patient can recline on a couch in tho open air, for the balmy breeze will not hurt the weakest frame, but only revive the droopiiig spirits by sending a thrill of joy through every nerve. This is the month for excursions in the counti^^', for nature now puts on her best attire ; the winter rains have w^atered the parched earth of the previous summer, and these bright warm sunny April days have caused a general shooting forth of all vegetable growth, deck- ing ever}' nook and corner with a fresh garb of livery in some way or other. CLIMATE. Ill It is (luring this montli that the first crops of Ber- muda produce mature. The onion, tomato, and potato ; tliose vegetable esculents which form the chief wealth of the planter, are hurried off to the ;Now York market in hopes of gaining the high prices whicl^ luxi^ry ai^d fashion can afford to give. The visitor journeying about the country lanes, ever}'- wliere perceives the bus}* labourers at work, for it is a time when no idleness is allowed ; the prosperity of the planter depending in a great measure upon the proceeds emanating from the produce of the ground during this and the succeeding month ; and therefore he and his servants must work from early morn tq dewy eve during that period, and leave tho^e pleas- ant hours of dreaniy idleness for the hot summer months, when repose is welcome indeed. The thermometer usually ranges during the month from G5° to 72°- MAY. *' The beautiftil month of Ma^- '* is an old English expression ; and one which is somewhat applicable to Bermuda. It is not such a month as April, how- pver, for the latter part of it is generally very v,-{\rm ; and northern visitors feel inclined to move towards home, wh^re the buds and blossoms are. opening, and the pleasant westerly breeze is ready to welcome them back v/ith its refreshing breath. Those who are now leaving the little islets, where they have passed,, we trust, niany happy days; will, we feel 112 CLIMATE. sure, not bid adieu to them without feelings of regi-et. The pleasant drives along the shad}' lanes ; the walks along the sandy beaches, where in the bright and joyous sunshine, the limpid waters sparkled at their feet ; the happy hours spent in chat with chosen friends, never to be forgotten for their kind words and kinder deeds ; the lovely scenery, whether of wood or water ; the former interspersed with its nooks and corners replete with natural gems; and the latter filled to repletion, with objects rich and rare. All these and more we think, will crowd upon the mind of the leave-taker as the last fond look is taken of the fast waning land. The home he is bound to has ties, no doubt, of the tenderest kind, but the casual home he has left, although he m 'y never see it again, will often recur to memory when the cold and drear}' autumn days close upon the northern land, telling of the bitter winter coming, to be succeeded by the dreaded months of spring. The thermometer usually ranges from 66^ to 76" during |;his month. JUNE. June, at least the latter part of it, is too hot to please a northo n constitution, and very few visitors remain longer thi'i the first week. Pleasant summer wea- ther has commenced in the north, and therefore there is no incentive to remain longer, unless the attractions pf these fairy isles should have captivated the taste pf some ardent lover of nature, and lure him to pro- CTIMATK. 113 long a visit, which has iloubtless enriclied his cabinet with many a rare specimen culled from the coral strand. The tliennometer usually ranges during this month from 75° to 80°. JULY. Thi--^- month is far too hot for visitors from the north, the temperature generally ranging from 80° to 8G°. AUGUST. This is generally a calm month with a temperature usually ranging from 80° to 90° ; a degree of heat which would not be considered vemar?:ably oppressive if th3 trade winds blew over the islands, but such not being the case, and the soil and rock being of a sandy nature absorb the diurnal heat to so great an extent that the nights are very nee rly as hot as the days. Sleepless nights are therefore common, and the wearied frame rises from its couch day after day only to suffer from the continued hent, and the pain- ful effects of broken rest. This is naturally a dread- ed month for European residents on the islands for that terrible disease, yellow fever, which happily occurs but at intervals of several years (ai.d at this date 1376 has not visited the island for twelve years) has nearly always commenced Hs ravages sometime during this month. W' '.ay remark here, for the comfort of those who may ioel nervous in this respect, that should no 114 CLIMATE. outbreak of the disease take place previous to tlie end of September or beginning of October, it may be considered as almost an impossibility for it to exist upon the islands during the succeeding season, owing to the reduction of temperature, which never fails to stay its progress. Visitors, therefore, having ascer- tained that the islands are h-althy during the month of October, may feel perfectly assured that such will be their state for the winter following, if we may judge from the experience of former years, even as far back as history goes. SEFfEMBER. . This is another very trying month ; weeks of calm hot weather, with the thermometer generally ranging from 80° to 90° ; and the nights nearly as hot as the daj's. The inhabitants are continually on the look out this month for hurricanes, as the worst visitations of the kind have always occurred at this period of the year. It was on the 12th of September, 1839, that the great hurricane of this century took place ; a day ever to be remembered for the fearful ravages it committed. Houses were blown down, and cedar trees of the largest size torn up by the roots. The sea sent its spray completely over the islands ; while vessels were torn from their anchorage and driven ashore even in the most sheltered harbours. Commencing at midnight of the 11th, the gale steadily increased, until at 7 a. m. of tlic 12th, tin KiUk.. CLIMATE. 115 barometer had fallen to 28.5 ; when it blew with fearful violence. It continued nearly all day, but gradually abated towards evening. As is visual before severe storms, the sea * roared ' all along the southern shore for some hours before the gale began. OCTOBER. About the end of September, or beginning of this month, a visible change occurs in the temperature ; the successive smart gales have cleared the atmos- phere of its superabundant heat, and oaused the nights to become much cooler and more agreeable. But it is still warm ; and not until the end of this month, at the earliest, should visitors arrive from the north. During this month, the sportsman enjoys more shooting than at any other time. The violent revolving gales which occur almost weekly, bring numbers of birds of many species from the American continent ; the different members of the duck tribe forming no inconsiderable portion of the whole ; while the Canada goose, and even the ponderous American swan liave been seen amidst the migratory host. gale NOVEMBER. With this month may be m<\ tg cqmmence '^ the Bermuda season." The heat of spnjiner has de- parted ; the violent gales of October h9>'e cooled tl^e atmosphere ; and winter \yith aU its bitt^er cold is grad- I IIG CLi:WATE. ually closing in throughout North America, rendering a lor "-er residence there hazardous to the weak, and by no means pleasant even to the strong. Ought not all the denizens of that bleak northern land, there- fore, to rejoice in the fact that there rests on the ocean's bosom away over the current of the gulf stream, yet only three days journey from New York ; a pretty little group of islets, begirt with charming white shores of coral sand, on which the evergreen scented cedar gi-owsas the ' forest primeval,' and the plume-like palmetto reflects its broad pendant leaves, in the transpa**ent waters of an azure and emerald tinted sea ; and where balmy brcezes continually fan the cheek, and the radiuut sunbeams grant a genial warmth, invigorating the frail system of the sufferer, and aifording a new lease of life to the already over- taxed and weakened frame. No snow, no frost, no winter, as we northern people know it ; but a lovely spring and summer kindly blended together, is the nature of the Bermudxan climate from November to May. As Madeira stands to Northern Europe, so Ber- muda stands to Northern America ; and we well know that in future years when the islands become better known, and more accommodation is provided, that great will be the number of visitors who will annually rush to this bright and happ}' land, where rest or recreation can be hourly indulged in throughout the winter months beneath the ra3's of a semi-tropic sun. Even at present there is excellent accommodation to CLIMATE. 117 be had at the chief hotel and boarding houses ; but unless tlie Bermudians bestir themselves and afford mor« facilities for visitors enjoying themselves in the way of innocent amusements, such as are provided and considered as common and necessary adjuncts to fashionable winter resorts elsewhere ; not a tithe of the number of visitors who would otherwise come, will wend their way to pass a winter in these pretty yet expensive isles. Oranges begin to ripen about the middle of this month, and are in season until the beginning of February ; but owing to the supply being limited they can generally be purchased at a cheaper rate cither in New York or Canada than here. The Thermometer usually ranges ft'om G5° to 70" this month. DJXEMBER. Tlie weather during this month is variable. Two or three da^^s of cool weather with strong breezes from the north, will be succeeded by an equal number of calm sultry dnys. Soon, however, a change takes place ; the wind veers from north by east to the southward, when a gale occurs, and for some forty- eight hours or more, the atmosphere becomes moist and heated. This state is by no means pleasant to the feelings ; and it cannot be better described than in the words of the inhabitants — " stick}^ weather." During this humid visit everything becomes mouldy, and in precisely the same stnto we have described in 118 NATURAL HISTORY. January ; and grateful, indeod, is the change when it comes, to a dry, cool, northern breeze. Fires are pleasant at the close of this month, when the wind is in the north ; reminding the visitor of his northern home and the bright and happy faces he has left behind. is ■ NATURAL HISTORY. GEOLOGY. The formation of the islands is calcareous sand rock ; derived from broken shells, corals, nullipores, &c. ; and presenting every state from friable material to the most compact limestone. From soundings recently taken by H. M. S. "Challenger" around Bermuda, it has been proved to be a peak rising abruptly from the abysmal depth of 1820 fathoms ; while at a distance of only eighty miles, its base rests on the ocean floor at the enormous depth of 3875 fathoms ; so that if the formation stood above water, it would appear as a mountain over 23,000 feet in height. Instances have been repeatedly recorded during the last half century of vessel's anchors havinj dragged up in different places within the barrier reef, and also in TTamilton and St. George's harbours, rfu NATURAL IIISTORV. 119 f ♦ ions of cedar trees, especiall3^ the roots ; having the appearance of being torn from their original positions. About the year 1869, submarine blastings carried on at the entrance to Hamilton harbour in order to deepen the entrance channel, revealed the fact of a cavern existing at a depth of over six fathoms ; containing stalactites and red earth. Again, during the process of excavating a space at Ireland Island for the purpose of forming a bed for the Groat Bermuda Floating Dock in 1870, the formation was penetrated to a depth of 52 feet below low water mark. At a depth of 42 feet, occurred a la3'er of red earth ; similar to that at present forming the common soil of the islands. This layer was 2 feet thick, and contained the remains of cedar trees ; and rested on a bed of compact calcareous sand stone. Now it is very clear that the stalactite cavern ; and the layer of red earth, with decayed cedar trees ; were at one time above water ; which in the latter case, even if the cedar trees gi-ew in the earth at the level of the ocean, would raise the islands 42 feet above tlieir present elevation ; sufficient to bring the whole bottom of the aqueous area extending from the shore to the outer barrier reef above water. In Capt. John Smith's *' History of Virginia," a work which contains a fair account of the Bermudas as they appeared about the commencement of the seventeenth centurj- : allusion is made to a very simple fact, which viewed, however, in an ornitholo- gical pciiit of view, adds a link to the chain of Tr 120 NATURAL HISTORY : 1 evidence regarding the extent of the islands in former times. It is therein stated, that large flocks of crows were seen at sunset each evening, winging their way from the main island out to sea in a northerly direc- tion. Now, the crow is gregarious in habit ; always proceeding at earliest dawn with its fellows, to some favourite feeding grounds, where it usually passes the day, retiring as night draws on to its accustomed roosting place ; generally a grove of evergreen trees. The crows, therefore, which Smith observed every evening, were undoubtedly making their way to a cedar-clothed islet out at sea, probably situate on the site of the present North Rook. Taking all these fticts into consideration, it appears to be a matter of certainty that Bermuda was at one time an island about 24 miles in length by 12 in breadth* ; and that after the submergence, along the whole course of the present l)arrier reef, there existed for several years a series of islets, which have grad- ually been washed away by the force of the tremen- dous seas which now roll unimpeded over the breakers wliich once formed their bases ; leaving the isolated pinnacle of the North Roc', as their only representa- tive. The soil of Bermuda is a red earth, which contains 35 per cent, of oxide of iron and alumina. It is very fertile and well suited for the growth of plants, as the large crops of market vegetables, which are ♦Compare Ovlodo'a account of thoiroxtont in 1515. Sec pape 20. NATURAL HISTORY. 121 annually- exported in great quantities, sufficiently testily. In some localities this red earth is several feet deep, while in others it exists as a mere coating. Its origin is doubtful ; but the fact of deposits of red clay (containing according to analysis the same ingredients as the Bermuda red earth) having been proved to exist in the deepest parts of the Atlantic bed between the islands and the West Indies, points to common causes. There is also a blackish soil, which is found in low situations, especially around the marshes. This is formed from decayed vegeta- tion, and partakes of the nature of peaty mud. These marshes, now filled with this peaty mud, to a depth of 42 feet or more in some instances ; (based upon observations made by His Excellency Governor Lefroy) and having their surfaces raised but little above the level of the sea without ; were doubtless, when the islands stood at their original elevation, deep hollows or valleys, which after the submergence of the group became inlets, gradually choking up with sandy mud, derived both from the ocean without, and the denudation of the slopes surrounding them. A dense vegetation of mangroves, succeeded by a denser growth of plant life ; would aid in solidifying the surface, until, as may be seen at the present day, it is fit for the growth of several trees and shrubs ; Avhich matted together with rushes, sedges, and the massive fronds of the great marsh fern (Acrostichum) are by their decay, gradually preparing it for the hands of the husbanduian. it 122 ZOOLOGY. ZOOLOGY. 'IP MAMMALIA. An oceanic island, so small in extent, and so far removed from any continent as Bermnda is, cannot be expected to possess many species of mammals. The following list, therefore, which is exceedingly meagre, will not be considered remarkable. The common monse (Mas musculus) is especially nnn^er- ous, and so is the rat (Jiits decumanus). The black rat (3Ius rattiis) is rare ; while another species (if. tedorum, only recently found by the author, and which generally builds a round ball-like nest on the branches of the cedar trees, is not uncommon. Two species of bat, the hoary bat ( Vespertilio pruinosus) ; and the silver-haired bat ( V. nodivagans) havo likewise been observed and captured ; but they are only oi,'casional visitants, and do not sta}' here. The common, or true whale {Balocna mysticetus) is to be seen sporting outside the reefs during the spring months; but the sperm whale {Phjsder macrocepha-> I us) is ver}' rare. During the winter the visitor will probably have an opportunity of tasting the niuch lauded ' whale ]>eof,' the taste of \Yhich w'lW, we think, be considered more peculiar than agreeable. lilji ZOOLOGY. 129 avp:s. There are only ten resident birds on the islands ; the Black bird {3Imus caroUnensis) ; the lUue bird ( Sialia sialis) ; Chick of the village ( Vireo novehora- censis; English sparrow (Pasjer domesticus) ; Red bird (^Cardinalis virginianus) ; American crow {Corvus americanus) ; Gronnd dove {Chamcepeleia passerina) ; Qnail {^Orty.. virginianus); Heron {Ardea herodias); and the American coot {Fulica amcricana) ; but many of the birds of Eastern North America visit the islands daring the autumn and winter months, driven no doubt by the northerly gales that prevail at that season so far from land ; or are carried up during the autumnal migi'ation by local whirlwinds to a great height ; where, meeting a direct westerly or north westerly gale blowing with great force out to sea, they are blown along the aerial current with amaz- ing speed far over the deep, until about the region of tlie Gulf Stream, the heated atmosphere which arises from this vast accumulation of warm waters mollifies the force of the cold northerly current of air above and allows the feathered freight to descend, probably not far from the remote Bermudas, which by an instinctive impulse they make for, and are thus saved from destruction. Tlie following list of migratory birds taken on the islands, or otherwise identified by the author's friends Lieut. Col. J. ^y. Wedderburn (late 42nd Roy. llighUui(lers) ; John I^. llurdis, Esq., (late Controller 124 ZOOLOGY. of Custonia and Navij^ation Laws in Bermuda) and Lieut. Savile Reid, R. E. ; F. Z. S., is corrected to date. The nomeiiclature is that of Coues. (See " Key to North American Birds." I 1, Robin, Turdus migratorlus. Occurs occasionally in small flocks. 2, "Wood Thrush ; T. musielinus. Very rare. 3, Olive-backed Thrush ; T. swainsonii. Rare. 4, Wheatear ; Saxicola oenanthe. Very rare. 5, Red-bellied Nuthatch ; Sitta canadensis. Verj'rare. 6, European Sky lark ; Alauda arvensis. Only once observed. 7, Shore Lark ; Eremophila almstris. Occasionally. 8, Pipit ; Anthus ludovicianus. 9, Black and White Creeper ; Mniotiltavaria. 10, Blue Yellow-backed \\ arbler ; Parula americana. Rare. 1 1 , Prothonotary Warbler ; Protonotaria citroea. Very rare. 12, Blue-eyed Yellow Warbler; Dendroeca oestiva. Very rare. 13, Black-tliroated Green Warb- ler ; Dendroeca virens. Very rare. 14, Black-tliroated Blue Warbler ; Dendroeca cceridescens. Very rare. 15, Yellow-rumped: Warbler; Dendroeca coronata. Rather common. IG, Bay-breasted Warbler ; Den- droeca castanea. Onl}' one specimen recorded. 17, Prairie Warbler ; Dendroeca discolor. Only one speci- men recorded. 18 Yellow red-poll Warbler ; Den' drwca pahnarum. Rare. 10, Pine-creeping Warbler, Dendroeca pinus. Very common at times. 20, Gold- en-crowned Thrush, ; Seiuru^ \urocapiUus. Some- times common. 21, Water T rush ; Seiurus nave- horacensis. Common. 22, Maryland yellc -^'-throat ; ZoologV. 125 Geothhjpis trichas. Rare. 23, Hooded Flj-catcher, Myiodiodes mitratua. Very rare. 24, American Red- start ; Setophaga ruticUld. V ry rare, 25. Scarlet Tanager ; Pyranga rubra. Rare. 26, Summer Red Bird; Pyranga osstiva. Not uncommon at times. 27, Barn Swallow ; Hirundo horreorum. Not uncom- mon at times. 28, Wlilte-bellied Swallow; Tachij- cineta bicolor. Rare. 29. Bank SwalloW ; Ootyle fiparia. Rare. 30, Purple Martin ; Pro.^rnejowT'pMrert. Hare. 31, Cedar Bird ; Ampelis cedrorum. Not com- mon. 32, Red-eyed Vireo ; Vireo olivaceus. Rare. 33, Great Northern Shrike, Colluris borealis. Rare. 34, American Crossbill ; CitryiVos^m awiericawa. Not common. 35, White-winged Crossbill, Gurvirostra ieuc'optera. Rare, 36. Red poll Linnet; JEgiothus Unarms. Common at times. 37, Pine Linnet; Chrysomitris pinus. Very rare. 38, Snow Bunting ; Pledrophanes nivalis. Common in winter. 39, Sa- vannah Sparrow; Passerculus sdvannd. Very rare. 40, Bay-Winged Bp'.iting ; Pooecetes gramineus. Only one specimen recorded. 41, Henslow's Sparrow; Coturniculus hensloivii. Only one specimen recorded ; 8hot by Mr. Hurdis, Decf , 1850. 42; Swamp Sparrow ; 3felospiza pahistr is. V'ery rare. 43, Snow Bird ; J'u7ico hyemalis. Very rare. 44, Fox-coloured Sparrow ; Passerella iliaca. Only one specimen re- corded ; shot by Mr. Bartram. 45, Rose-breasted Grosbeak ; Goniaphea ludoviciana. Not uncommon. 46, Indigo Bird; Cyanospiza cyaned. Rare. 47, i^ice Bird ; Dolichonyx oryzivorus. Sometimes nu- i l!i ii • l 12G /(M)LOGY. merous in autumn. 48, Cow Bird ; MoIothVm pccoris One specimen only recorded ; shot by Mr. Bartram. 49, Baltimore Oriole ; Icterus Baltimore. Rare. ijO, King Bird; T >jy annus carolinensis. Common at times in spring. Al, Pipify Fly catcher; Tyrannus domin- icensis. Very rare. 52, Olive-sided Fly catcher; Coniopiis horealis. Very rare. 53, Wood Pewee Fly Catchci*, Contopi's virens. One specimen only record" ed ; shot by Mr. Hurdis, April 30, 1852. 54, Traill's Fly catcher, Empidonax traillii. Very rare. 55, Night Hawk ; Chordeilcs virginidnus. Common at times. 56, Chimney Swift; Chwtura pelasgia. Rare. 57, Rubj'-throat Humming Bird ; frochilus coluhris. Only one specimen recorded ; shot by Mr. Bartram. 58, Belted Kingfisher; Ceryk alcyon. Common. 59, Yellow billed Cuckoo ; Coccyzus americanus. Sometimes common. GO, Black - billed Cuckoo ; Cocf-yaus erythropthahnus. Gl, Yellow-bellied Wood- pecker; Sphyrapicus variiis. Not im'^ommon. G2, Golden-winged Woodpecker ; Colaptes auratus. Very rare. G3, Long-^iued Owl; Otus wihonianus. Rare. G4. Short-eared Owl \ lirachyotus paluMris. Rare. G5. Barred Owl; Syrnium nehulosum. One spocimeii only recorded by Mr. Iliirdis, April 2, 3 851. GG, Snowy Owl ; Nyctea nivea. Very rare. G7, Hawk Owl ; Surnia ulida, var. luidsonica. Onl}- one si)eci' men ever seen. 08, Acadian Owl ; Nydale acadicd. Very rare. G9, American Marsh Hawk; Circus cyaneUs, var. hudsdnius. Occasionally seen. 70, Sharp-shinned Hawk ; Accrpiier fuscu.^. Very rare. zuoLu^iindin[)ei", Erednctcs pusithCs. Conlmoil 95, Ame- ;31 128 ZOOtOGV. f\ ( i I i rican Stint ; Tringa minutUla. Common. 96, Pec- toral Sandpiper ; Tringa maculata. Common. 97, White-rmnped Sandpiper; Tringa bonapartei. Not nncommon. 98, Purple Sandpiper ; Tringa marl- tima. VerjM'are. 99. Sanderling; Calidris arenaria. Common. 100, Willet; Totanus semipalmatus. Only one specimen recorded ; shot by Lieut. Col. Wedder- burn, July 3, 1848. 101, Greater Yellow-shanks; Totanus meldnoieucus. Common. 102, Solitary Sandpiper ; Totanus solitarius. Not common. 103) Spotted Sandpiper ; Tringoides macularius. Common. i04, Bartram's Sandpiper; Actiturus hartramius. Only One specimen recorded. 105, Hudsonian Curlew} Numenius Imdsonicus. Not uncommon. 106, Esqui^ maux Curlew ; Nunienim horealis. Not uncommon. l07. Glossy Ibis ; Ibis falmiellus, var ordii. Only drie specimen ever seen. 108, Great White Egret ; Ardea egretta. Rare. 109, Snowy Heron ; Arded cdndidissima. 'Rare. 110, Little blue Heron ; Ardea ccerulea. Not uncommon. Ill, GreenHeron; ^rtZea virescens. Rather -^mraon at times. 112, Night Heron ; Nyctiarde.. grisea^ var noevia. Oilly young birds; adult has nCver yet occurred. 113, Yellow^ crowned night Heron j Nyctiardea violacea. Rather common. 114, American Bittern; Botaurus minor. Common. 115, Least Bittern; J rt^e^a exi'/is. Not uncommon. 116, Virginian Rail; Eallus virginianus. Very rare. 117, Carolina Rail; Porzana Carolina. Very common at times. 118, Yellow Rail; Porzana novcboracensis. Very rare. 119, Black Rail; Por* ZOOLOGY. 129 Jommoil. &ana Jamaicensis. Very rare. 120, Corn-crake; Grex pratensis. Only one specimen recorded ; shot by Lieut. Col. Wedderburn, Oct. 25, 1847. 121, Piii-ple Gallinule; Porphyrio martinica. Not un- conunon. 122, American Coot; Fulica americana. Not uncommon. 12ij, American Flamingo ; Fhteni- copterus ruber. Once seen. 124, Whistling Swan ; Cygnus americanus. Only one specimen recorded. 125, Snow Goose ; Anser hyperboreus. Very rare. 126, Canada Goose ; JBranta canadensis. Occasion- ally seen. 127, Mallard ; Anas boschas. Very rare. 128, Black Duck ; Anas obscura. Not uncommon in winter. 129, Pintail; Bajlla acuta. Rare. 130, Gadwall; Chaulelasmus streperus. Very rare. 131, American Widgeon; Mareca americana. Occasion- ally seen. 132, Green- winged Teal; Querquedula carolinensis. Rare. 133, Blue-winged Teal ; Quer- quedula discors. Common at times. 134, Shoveller; Spatula clypeata. A single specimen recorded. 135, Summer Duck ; Aix sponsa. Only one specimen re- corded. 136, Lesser Scaup ; Fuligula affinis. Very rare. 137, Ring-necked Duck; Fuligula collaris. One specimen recorded. 138, Canvas-backed Duck ; Fuligula vallisneria. Very rare. 139, Golden-eye ; Bucephala clangula. Not uncommon. 140, Buffel- headed Duck ; ^Mcep/iaZa a?6eok. Rare. 141, Surf Scoter ; (Edemia percpicillata. Rare. 142, Ruddy Duck ; Erismatura rubida. Very rare. 143, Goos- ander; 3Iergus merganser. Only once seen. 144, 6 S^. margarita. Not common. 72, BuUnius ventrosus. Very common. 73, Helecina convexa. Common. 74, Truiicatella subcylindrica. Not common. 75, r. pulchella. Rare. 76, Melampwy Redjieldii. Com- mon on the borders of mangrove swamps. 77, Pedi- . pes tridens. Not uncommon. 78, Alexia bermu- densis. Common under stones, borders of mangi'ove swamps; 79, Bulla phy sis. Rare. SO, B. nitidula. Common. 81, B . punctulata ; muddy bays, common. 82, Aplysia — ; f "Sea Cat." Common at low water mark. 83, Doris f . There are several beautiful species, none of which have yet been iden- tified. 84, Placunomia f on shells of Melea- grina placunoides. 85, Peden ziczac ; "Scallop." Common in certain localities. 86, P. gruneri. Rare. 87, Lima fragilis. Rare. 88, Spondylus ustulans ; line specimens may be detached from the coral reefs. 80, S. ericineus ; in similar places. 90, Avicula atlardica ? Rare, on gorgonia stems. 9 1 , Meleagrina placunoides; " O^'ster." Common in muddy bays, attached to sticks, &c. Some handsome pearls are occasionally found inside the valves. 92, Perna cpUppiutn. Very common, attached to mangrove roots, &c. Pearls are sometimes found in the valves, of these shells also. 93, Pinna rudis. Common in muddy bays. 94, Mytilus domingensis ; "Black 140 ZOOLOGl*. p < ■, Shell." Very common in crevices of the rocks at low water. 95, Modiola tulipa. Very common in sandy beaches. 96, Area nooe. Very common about the beaches. 97, A. americana. Common, sandy beaches. 98, A. gradata. Common under stones at low water. 99, Chama macro^hylla. Common under stones at low water. 100, 0. Imgua-fdis. Com- mon in similar places. 101, Cardium serratum. Common, sandy beaches. 102, C. cygnorum. Rare* 103, Lucina tigrina. Common, sandy beaches. 104, L. doming ensis. Rare. 105, Loripes chlorostoma. Rare. 106, Venus cancellata. Rare. 107, Venus crenifera. Rare. 108, Tellina laevigata. Common, sandy beaches. 109, T. magna. Common, sandy beaches. 110, T. radiata. Common, sandy beaches. Ill, T. interrupta. Not uncommon. 112, Capsa spectabilis. Common at low water ; Flatts harbour. 113, Semele ■-■? Common ; Flatts harbour. S. — f Rare; sandy beaches. 114, Solecurtits ? Common; Somerset bays. 115, Pholas striata ; in drift timber. TUNICATA. Several species yoX, undetermined. jm INSECTA. The insect fauna has evidently been derived chiefly from the southern states of America ; although there are isolated examples of European and also Carib- bean t^-pes, which point to the transportation of ZOOLOGt; 141 siBcds and plants from those quarters as their probable mode of introduction. The author feels deeply indebted to Professor ScuiMer of Harvard University, Cambridge, Massachusetts, for the generous assist- ance he has given in determining the Orthoptera, and in procuring the revision of the remaining orders by those well known American entomologists E. P. Austen (Coleoptera) Dr. H. Hagen (Neuroptera) Dr. A. S. .Packard (Hymenoptera) H. K. Morrison (Lepidopt.) Professor Uhler (Hemiptera) Baron 0?ten Sacken (Diptera). The late Mr. Francis Walker of the British Museum also kindly identified several species. Th6 Ust corrected to date is as follows :— Coleoptera. (E.P.Austen) (Adam Whio<},F.L.S.) (Francis Walker.) 1, dicindela tortuosa. Very common in summer. 2, Pristonycims complanatus. Common. 3, Platynus cincticoUis. Not common, i, P. punctiformis. Not common. 5, Agonoderus lineola. Common. 6, Ther* monectesornaticoUis. Common. 7, CreophilusviUosus, Not common. 8, Aphodius ruricola. Rare. 9, A. fimetarius. Rare. 10, Troxscaher. Rare, ll', T. suherosm. Rare. 12, Ligyrui juvencus ; *' Hard- back." The most common beetle on the islands. 13^ Buprestis decora. 14, Agriotea -^ ? Common. U,Opatnnus f Very common. 16,Biapstinus meiallicus. Rare. 16, Phaleria testacea. Very rare. 7 142 ZOOLOGV. 17, Hyme,noru8 obscurus. Rare. 18, Lepyrus f Common in summer time. 19, Galandra oryzce. Kare. His Excellency the Governor has recently intro- duced the American fire fly Photuris which we hope tHll survive to increase the .eagre c'oleopteran fauna. liYMENOPTEBA. (A. S. Packard.) (Adam White, F. L. S.) 1, Apis melUfica; "Honey Bee." Common. 2, Vespa vulgaris. Bare. 3, Foliates canadensis; thd most common insect of the order. 4, Pelopoeus /at;*pe£; "Mason Wasp." Common in summer. 5, F. coeruleus. Not common; 6, Fompilus ■? Bare. 7, Angochlora ? Rare. 8, Formica ; — f Very common ; probably two species. 9, Jvania Icevigata. Not uncommon. 10, Ichneumon ? Not uncommon. 11, Ophion -f Common. LePidoptera. (II. K. Morrison.) (Francis Walker.) 1, Terias lisa; occasionally observed, and at intervals of years visiting the islands in flocks of countless myriads. 2, Colias phylodice. Very rare. 3, Danaida plexippus ; "Bermuda butterfly." Very common. 4, Anosia herenice. Rare. 5, Vanessa antiopa. Very rare; one specimen seen by Mr. Ilurdis at Hamilton. 6, V. lo; only one specimen taken by Canon Tristram in 1848. 7, V. polychloros ; ZOOLOGY. 143 one specimen ; Canon Tristram. 8, Pyrameis ata- lanta. Rare. 9, P. cardui. Common. 10, Juno^ ma ccenia; the most common butterfly on the islands. 11, Hipparchia andromache. One specimen; Canon Tristram. 12, Macro cila dngulata; *'Husk." Com- mon. 13, Sphinx argentata; taken by Cauon Trist- ram. 14, Gherocampa tersa; "Tobacco Musk.'' Common. 15, Agrotis malefida. Not uncommon. 16, A. suffusa. Common. 17, A, incivis. Not common. 18, A. annexa. Not common. 19, Pro- denia cammelina. Rare. 20, Perniffea laiipes. Com. mon. 21 , Leucania unipunctata (imago of the * ' Army Worm "of North America). Common. 22, PhUe- reme alhosignata. Not common. 23, Nomophila noctuella. Very common. 24, Lycomorpha pholas. Rare. 25, Deiopeia bella. Common, 26, Botys hcernalis. Abundant ; Canon Tristram. DiPTtiRA, (Baron Osten Sacken.) 1, Trypeta humilis. 2, Syrphus obUquus. Com- mon. 3, Ghaetopsis aena. 4, Tetonocera pictipes. 5, Dilophus r- sp. 6, InceUia fucorime. 7, Dicranomijia distans . Mr. Walker adds. 8, Sarcophaga ruhida. Common. 9, Anthomyia Upida, Not uncommon ; to which must be added, 10, Pulex initans; ' ' Flea." As common as in other countries. U, P. peyidmwa; "Jigger." CommQi>, 144 ZOOLOGY. Hemiptepa. (Professor Uhler.) (Adam White, F. L. S.) 1, Pangaeus Ulineatus. 2, Banasa eucMora. 3, 4ulacoatethus simulans. 4, Gorisus hyalinus. 5, Ormenis pruinosa. 6, Coclidia olitoria. 7, Cicada sp. 8, Bhaphigaster prasinus. d^R.cydnus.. 10, Cimex lectularius, Orthoptera. (Professor Scudder.) sp. Common in sandy places, sp. Very common. 3, 1, Oryllus 2, Gonocephalus ■ Stenobothrus Ulineatus. 4, Panchlora surinamensis. 5, Periplaneta americana. 6, LaUdura riparia. 7, Forcinellamaritima. 8, Ceratmoptera diaphana. We can also add. 9, (Edipoda Carolina. Common. Neuroptera. (Dr. H. Hagen.) 1, Anax Junius. Common. 2, Mesothemis longi- pennis. Common. 3, Tramea abdominalis. Not uncommon. 4, Agrion hastatum. Not uncommon. 6, A. iners. Not uncommon. 6, Hallesus maculi- pennis. Rare. 7, Myrmeleon sp. (probably new.) 8, JSschna sp. 9, Lepisma sp. Arachnid^. Several species of spiders have been collected by the author but only one is yet identified Nephila plumipes "Silk Spider" which is very common throughout the cedar groves. ; f; "ti White, or a, 3, lus. 5, Cicada cydnus.. ' places, m. 3, imensia. Ha. 7, la. We ion. 's longi' . Not )mmon. macuU- robably sp. ited by Nephila amnion ZOOLOGY. CRUSTACEA. 145 As several species in the author's collection remain undetermmed, and his present list (about 30 species) no havuig been thoroughly revised, he refrains from publishing it. It may be well, however, to identify the more prominent forms, which ahnost daily present themselves to the notice of the visitor. The common crab which runs over the rocks about the shore is Orapsus pictus a well known West Indian form The gaily mottled crab called "Turtle crab" or "Box Crab" from its habit of folding up its legs close to the carapace is Oalappa marmorata ; while the prettily variegated "lobster" of Bermuda is Palinurus amencaniis. RADIATA. As may well be imagined from the accumulation of specimens coming under this head, which now await he study of the adept in each class, it is impossible to give a satisfactory list at present. The pohiDs lowever, having naturally attracted more attention by their curious forms, we can enumerate aU those now known as Bermudian. Of corals we have, 1, IsophyiUa dipsacea. Very common, even in rock pools at low tide. 2, DiphrL cerehnfornus; " Brainstone." Very common ; speci- mens three feet in diameter can be ,een\vithin the lecfs. 3, Ocnhna d.fusa. Very con^n^on on every I I 14G ZOOLOGY. ( i reef. 4, O. varicosa. Not common ; a lovely species, having the cells protrudant. 5, O. valen- ciennesii. Rare. 6, Siderastrcea radians. Very common in rock pools. 7 , My cedium fragile. Com- mon under shelving rocks. 8, Pontes clavaria. Not uncommon. 9, P. sp. Very common in rock pools. 10, Millepora alcicornis ; the most com- mon reef coral. The Alcyonarian polyps are represented by four species of Gorgonidoe. 1 , Qorgcnia flabellum ; ' ' Sea Fan." Very common. 2, Pleccaura crassa. Com- mon. 3, Plexaura flexuosa; "Sea Rod." Very common. 4, Pterogorgia americoina ^ "Prince's Feather." Ver, common. There are many pretty species of sponges, which the visitor will find stray portions of on the shores after every gale ; and also numberless forms included under the above head, \yhich if collected and placed in museums, might be the means of increasing the dresent knowledge of the marine invertebrates of the Bermudas. ^'1 liOTANV, 147 BOTANY. We are sorry that the limits qf this little guide book will not allow of more than a list of those trees, shrubs and plants which generally come under the notice of the visitor. For a more detailed description of the vegetation of the islands the reader may consult the author's pan^phlet recently published (Botany of Bermuda; pp. 43, 1874.) The more common trees and shrubs are as follows ; the local names being placed alphabetically for easy reference. Avocada Pear ; Persea gratissima. Bamboo ; Agave americana. Banana ; Musa sapientum. Burning-bush ; Fvlmettia pidcherrima. Button-wood ; Cephalanthus occidentalis. Calabash ; Crescentia cujcte. Cedar ; Juniperus barbadensis. Coffee; Goffea arabL Coral tree, or Physic Nut ; Jatropha multijida. Fiddle- wood ; Githarexytum quadrangidarc. Grape-fruit ; Citrus racemosus. India-rubber tree ; Ficus elastica. Lemon ; Citrus limonum. Lime ; Citrus limetta. Mangrove; Ithizophor a mangle. Oleander ; Neriim oleander, III' 148 BOTANY. Orange ; Citrus aurantium. Palmetto; Sahal palmetto. Papaw ; Carica papaya. Phj'sic Nut ; Jatropha multifida. Plantain ; Musa paradisiaca. Pride of India ; Melia azedarach. I^ed Sage bush ; Lantana camara. Sage bush ; L. odorata. * Sago Palm ; Cycas revoluta. Sea Lavender ; Suriana maritima. Sea-side Grape ; Cocoloha uvifera. Shaddock ; Citrus decumanus. Spruce ; Tamarix gallica. The common plants and weeds are : — « Arrow-root ; Maranta arundinacea. Bay-bean ; Canavalia ohtusifolia. Clover ; Medicago lupuUna. Crab-grass ; Stenotaphrum aniericanum. English Plantain ; Plantago major. Great Marsh Fern ; Acrostichum aureum. Life Plant ; Bryophyllum calycinum. Melilot ; Melilotus officinalis. Prickly Pear ; Opmntia tuna. Ribwort ; Plantago lanceolata. Rush, Large Marsh ; Juncus maritimiis. Silk-weed ; Asdepias curassavica. Tittiraelly ; Euphorbia peplus. Vervain ; Stachytarphajamaicensis, Wire-weed ; Sida c.arpinifolia, 1 ,1 BOTANY. 149 MARINE ALGJE. As the collection of sea-weeds has always been a favourite amusement among visitors to the sea side, we can safely assure those who intend making a trip to Bermuda, that they will find ample facihties for procuring many beautiful examples of those interest- ing forms ; for T^^erever their walks may lead them about the 'fairy isles,' the routes traversed will rarely fail to bring them in close proximity to the shore ; where either on the rocky ledges of some retired inlet, or the glistening shelly beach of a sandy bay, they can pass hours of intellectual enjoyment, fanned by the balmy ocean breeze, or warmed by the genial rays of the pleasant southern winter's sun, and they will assuredly find that ** Each rock pool ha8 its treasure, every tide &^rew8 on the yellow sand, from Ocean's lap. Weeds, than our flowers more fair, and fitted more. By Lady s gentle fingering displayed. To beautify the album's tasteful page. Than aught that deftest pencil e'er devised Of graceful symmetry, or lovely hue : For who can paint like Nature " quoth the Bard." Dr. Rein, late president of the Senckenberg Society, Frankfort on Maine, (a valued friend of the author's) made during a two years residence on the islands, a very complete collection of the sea-weeds which has been added to by the Revd. Professor Kemp, of Galesbury, Illhiois, who has very kindly furnish- ed us with a re\ised list, for which we tender our best thanks, 150 BOTANY. I 1, Sargassum vulgare. 2, S. hacciferwn}. 3, 8. lendigerum, var. fusifolium. 4, S. Unifolium. 5, Fucus ceranoides. 6, F. distichus. 7, Sporochnus peduncidatus. 8<) Haliseris polypodioidcs. d, Zonaria parvula. 10, Taonia atomaria. 10, Dictyota dicho" toma. 11, D, fasciola. 12, D. ciliata. 13, D. Bartayresiana. 14, i). *W//'iicaia. 15, Asperococcu^ sinuosus. 16, 3Iesogloia vermiculafis. 17, ilf. v^Ve3- cews. 18, il[f. Griffithsiana. 19, Ectocarpus sp. 20, Acanthophora Thierii. 21, Digena simplex. ?2, Polysiphonia fihriUosa. 23, P. elongata. 24, P, nigrescens. 25, Bostrychia scorpioides. 26, P. won- tagneri. 27, Dasya elegans. 28, Z). mucronata, 29, D. pediculata. 30, Laurencia ohtusa. 31, Z. papil- losa. 32, ii. scoparia. 33, i/. gemmifera. 34, Cor- allina officinalis. 35, Botryoglossum platycarpum. 36, Gracilaria multipartita. 37, O. con/ervoides. 38, 6!^. armata. 39, (?. divariea^a. 40, Gelidium corneum. 41, (^ rigidum. 42, (7. abnorme. 43, Eucheuma isiformis. 44, TFar'aemam'a setacea. 45, Hypncea musciformis. 46, Helminthora divaricata. 4,7, Liagora pulverulenta. 4:8, L.valida. id, Ghrysi- menia uvaria. 60, Sphyridiafilamentosa. 51, Cera^U' ium nitens. 52, Wrangelia penicillata. 53, Rliody menia palmata. 54, JS. laciniata. 55, Centroceras clavulatum. 56, Alsidium Blodgetii. 57, Gigartina Tedii. 58, Chondrus crispus. 59, Chylocladia rosea. 60, Chrysymenia Halymenioides. 61, G. uvaria. G2, Gloiosiphonia capillar is. 63, Cryptonesmia evenulata. 64, Asparagopsis Dclilci. G5, Gq,laxaura fastigiatq,. BOTANY. 151 s. 5, G6, Sanira cuhensis. C7, Amphirva dehUis. 68, Godium amphihium. GO, C. bursum. 70, G. tomen- tosum. 71, G.adhcer ens. 72, Bryopsia plumosa. 73, B. hypnoides. 74, Gladophora membranacea. 75, G. latiorius. 76, G. luteola. 77, G. pelhcida. 78, C. 5'mc*7ts. 79, G, glaucescens. 80, 0. glomerata. 81, Enteromorpha genicidata. 82', ^. ramulosa. 83, ?7^ya latissima. 84, t^. Zac^wccf. 85, ?7. ?wza. 86, 27. fasciata. 87, Anadyomene stellata. 88, Dictyoi- phceria intricata. 89, Blodgettia confervoides. 90, Penicillus capiiatus. dl, Caulerpaplumaris. 92, C. weajicana. 93, (7. proUfera. 94, C. davifera. 95^ C. ericifoUa, var. jivt/era. 96, C/cZo^ea fiabellata. 07, {7. conglutinata. 98, HaUmeda opmitia. 99, ^cefeiwZana erenulata. 100, Dasycladus occidentalia. 101, Lyngbia majuscula. 102, Derbesia marina. 103, Porphyra vulgaris, var. laciniata. It would be needless to inform the amateur algologist, that if he desires to form a complete collection of Bermudian sea- weeds, he will have to secure the services of a boatman to take him out to the reefs, where he will find some of the rarer and more beautiful forms ; but as such visits are usually beset with difficulties, which will be looked upon by those unaccustomed to boating in troubled waters, as absolute dangers ; he will very probably content himself with investigating the shore rocks, beaches, tuKl titlal pools ; many of which present themselves at every turn, and about which he will be able to 152 BOTANY* secure specimens of at least two thirds of the species above enumerated. Should he desire to consult a standard work on the sea-weeds of the east coast of N. America, he will find Professor Harvey's excellent volumes published by the Smithsonian Institution all that could be desired. A copy will be found in the Public Library. Note. — The author having made the Natural History of the Bermudas his special study for several years ; it will afford him great pleasure, to give information to any who may be desirous of forming collections. Address : — • ^ THE HERMITAGE, HAMILTON, BERMUDA. IN DEX. Admiralty House 101 Adams, Mr. C. B 137 Algos, Marine 149 April, Climate of 110 Arachnida 144 Austen, Mb. E. P 141 August, Climate of 113 Aves 123 Bartram, Mr. J. T.. . .45, 139 Bailey's Bay Church 55 Bermuda Company 24 Bermuda Penny 31 Bermudez, Juan 20 Bell, Governor 25 Bennett, Governor 26 BjiBKELEY, BiSHOP 28 Beckwith, Governor 31 Birds, list of 123 Bland Mr. Thos 136 Blue Hole 46 Boilers ,. . . . 84 Botany 147 Boaz Island 93 Bruere, Governor 29 Browne, Governor 30 Browne, Sir Thos 37 Bridge House 91 Brackish Pond 102 Butler, Governor 25 Buildings Bay 41 Butcher's Meat, price of. . . 19 Campbell, Governor 31 Catherine Fort 15 Castle Harbour 42 Castle Island 42 Causeway 45 Caves, Walsingham 46 Camelo, Ferdinand 66 Camber 94 Chaddocke, Governor .... 25 Chapman, Governor 33 Chapman, Sir F 37 Chalk Caves 50 Chess Board, the 67 Clii:nate 18, 106 Clarence Hill 101 Clarence Cove 102 Coney, Governor 26 CocKBURN, Governor 32 CoLPOYS, Admiral 96 Cooper's Island 44 Cooper's Hole 51 Court House 76 Colonial Office 76 Council Chamber 76 Commissioner's House 97 Cobbler's Isle 101 Crawford Goverijor 31 Crustacea 145 Crow Lane Harbour 16 CuMiNO, Mr. Hugh, f. l. 8.137 Darrell, Hon. J. H. . .29, 103 Darrell Island 98 David's Island 41 Devonshire Old Church 103 Devonshire New Church . . . 104 Devonshire College 71 December, Climate of 117 Devil's Hole 54 Devil's Head 65 154 INDEX. Dock, Bermuda 94 Ducking Stool 59 East Ledge Flat 87 Elia Karbour 91 Elliott, Governob 36 February, Climate of 108 FiBLD, Bishop 74 Fishes, list of 131 Flatts Harbour 56 Flatts Bridge 66 FOSTEU, GOVEENOB 25 Fort Victoria 41 Fort Albert. 41 Frith Family 74 Freer, Rev. J. B 74, 89 Gates, Sib Thos 23 Gazette, Royal 39 Geology 118 Gibbons' Bay 58 Gibbet Island 58 Gibbs Hill 56 GoDDARD, Governor 26 Gore, Governor 32 GooDE, Mr. G. Brown 132 Government House 59 Governor's Island , 16 Groupers 54 Grassy Bay 97 Great Sound 97 Grace's Island 98 GuNTHER, Dr. a., p. r. s. .132 Gulf Stream H Gurnet Rock 43 GuiLDiNQ, Rev. L., f. l. s. . 62 Hayden, Governor 26 Hamilton, Governor 31 Hagkn, Dr. H 141, 144 Harvey, Sir Thos. ...... 96 Harrington Sound 66 Hamilton 73 Hamilton Hotel 76 Hamilton Club 77 Hern Bay 86 Hodgson, Governor 82 Hope, Govebnoe 27 House of Assembly 76 Hog-fish Cut i. 16 Hog-penny 26 HuRDis, Mr. J. L 128 Hurricanes 29. 1i Hungary Bay 72 Inolis, Bishop. 90 Insects, list of 140 Ireland Island 94 January, Climate of 107 Joell, Capt 27 Jourdan, Sil 23 June, Climate of 112 July, climate of 113 Kemp, Rev. Professor 149 King's Castle 42 Kitchen Shoals 87 Knapton Hill 63 Lapstone 101 Lekroy, Governor ... 37, 100 Lighthouse ... 86 Little Plantain Hole 51 Lough, Rev J. B. L 81 Lough. Dr. Inglis 62 Long-bird Island 46 Long Island 15 Lu-MLEY, Governor 32 Lunatic Asylum 71 INDKX. 155 Maclainb, Miss 92 May, Henry 21 Mangrove Bay 93 Marshal Island 99 Marsh, Pembroke. . . 100 March, cliraat'^ of 109 May, climate of 1 1 1 Mammalia 122 Mammals, list of 122 McGall's Farm 68 Milne, Admiral 37 Middle Road 102 MoOEE, QOVERNOE 25 Moore, the poet 17 Morrison, Mr. H. K..141, 142 MoUusca ....-, 136 Mount Langtcn 50 Murray, Governor. ...... 37 aSON, Mr. Augustus.... 66 MussoN, Mr. James 68 Mullet Bay 44 Murray Anchorage 15 Narrows, the 15 Natural History 118 Nat Kiel 82 Naval Hospital 95 Naval Cemelery 95 Novemher, climate of 1 15 North Rock..: 87 North Shore 69 Nonsuch Island 44 Norwood's Survey 25 Oakley, Major 36 October, climate of 115 Old Fort 41 Ord, Governor , . 37 Ordnance Island 41 Osten Sacken, Baron 141 Parry, Capt., B. N 92 Paget Sand Hills 81 Paget Parish Church 80 Par-le-ville 77 Paynter Vale 49 Paynter, Capt 61 Pembroke Church. 61 Peniston, Mr. Clarence . . 64 Peniston, Miss Mary 106 Peniston, Capt. .... 49 Peniston '8 Pond 64 Pearman, Mb J. 69 Perot FaL ■ 77 PiiiLPOTTS, Col 36 Pitt, Governor 27 Pisues 131 Plantain Hole 60 Popple, Governor 2^" Point Shares !•) Port Royal Church 89 Port's Island 98 Prospect 102 Prince Alfred's tree 77 Pulleine, Governor 27 Public Library 76 Public Building 76 Quarries, R. E. Quashi's Pole. . 84 58 Paget, Admiral . . . Packard, Dr. A. S. . . 96 .142 Radiata 145 Reid, Governor 34 Reid, Lieut. S., r. e. . ,43, 124 Rein, Dr 149 Reid Obelisk 35 Reptilia 131 Reptiles, list of. 131 llrach, the 45 RiciiiER. Governor 26 Rickett's Island 98 Robinson, Governor 26 Robe, Colonel 36 156 INDEX. Royal Eng. Qunrries 84 Roiids, Bermuda. .... ..... 19 Royal Gazette 39 Satle, Governor 25 Siindy's Parish 91 ScuDDER, Professor. .141, 144 Seymour, Governor 26 September, climate of .... 114 Sea bottle 83 Session's House, 76 SiiAW, Capt 16 Shea! water. Dusky 43 Sheep Island 99 Shells, list of 136 Shark's Hole 51 Slavery 33 Smith's Island 25 SirJth's Marsh 70 Smith's Church 68 Smith, Capt. John 43 Somers, Sir George 23 Soniers' tomb . . 24 Southampton Island 43 South-side stone 84 Somerset Bridge. 91 Somerset Church 92 Somerville 105 Spencer, Archdeacon .... 49 Spanish Point 99 Staggs Rocks 101 Stock's Point 45 St. Paul's College 28 Tatem's Island 98 Tristram, Canon 142 Trinity Church 74 Trunk Island 66 Tropic Bird 89 Trade of Bermuda 18 Turner, Governor 25 Turner, Sir H 33 Tucker, Governor 25 Ticker, Miss Louisa 105 Tucker's Town 62 Tucker's Town Ponds 52 Tucker's Island 98 Tunicata 140 Uhler, Professor. ,144 WalkeIv, Mb. F 142 Walt'ord Island 93 Warwick Church 85 Warwick Pond 85 Weddekburn, Lieut, Col. . 123 White, Mr. Adam 142 Whittield 28 Witchcraft 25 Wood, Governor 25 Woodhouse, Governor ... 25 Wood, Rev. J. M 81 Wreck Hill 10 Zoology 122 I L * Preparing for publication, by the same author, with illustrations of the rarer and more remarkable forms, THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE BERMUDAS or SOMERS' ISLES. I .; EEEVES & TTTHITEII, Booksellers and Publishers, 196 STI^-A^lSriD, w. o. Law Branch: 100 Chancery Lam. W.O. LONDON. DEALERS IN OF EVER> DESCRIPTION Catalogues gratis and post free on application. Shipping Orders receive careful attenuon. i jmn% HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA. Breech and JVLuzzle j^oading puNS, Cartridges and Partridge Pases, BEST GUNPOWDER, CAPS AND WADS POU SALE. Birds and Animals mounted, and Specimens for Sale or to Exchange. JOHN M. DeWOLFE llill M^ I MnUUt* CORNER or WEST i RORIE STS., "art eaiipi Has on hand at all times a. large assortment of % r^i A ARRl Including the Latest Styles. The Sahscriher having visited Ber- muda, knows the requirements of the * 'Siinny Isles " in the Carriage Line, and respeetfully solicits a continuance of the many favors he has hitherto re- oeiiVpd JOHN M. DeWOLFE. i JAHES BOWES & SONS, it BEDFORD ROW, TFe /^ay(? ^/-v^ class facilities, and ar^e prepared to execute OF Sook and Job Frinitng, WITH NEATNESS AND DESPATCH. Ord'^rs Aj/ Mail promptly attendpd to. JAMES BOWES Jl SONS. (P. O. Box 100.) ONS, W^ les, and iTCH. ^ded to. i SONS. m