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 1 
 
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 22X 
 
ii- 
 
•■( 
 
 I 
 
 flLL-R0Ur^D I^eUTE 
 
 fANO 
 
 PANORAMIC GUIDE 
 
 OF THE 
 
 IT-. LaMlilllNliil 
 
 «Bk^ 
 
 EMBRACING 
 
 ^""Rlverst^T« ''"""' ■'°'-°"^°' Thousand Islands and 
 
 River St. Lawrence, Ottawa. Montreal,kOuebec 
 
 the Lower St. Lawrence, 
 
 AND 
 
 The White inountains, 
 Adirondacks and 
 
 Saratoga. 
 
 CANADA RAILWAY NEWS COMPANY (Limited), 
 496 St. James Street, Montreal 
 
 publishers and General Rail«,ay He«)s Agents. 
 
 "RANCHES AT 
 
 Toronto, Ont., Stratford, Ont, St. John, N.B. 
 
 
 > vWl 
 
 ^ "H e^*^ 
 

 C ^ ■' 
 
 7 
 
 Lf* 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 >* 
 
 V! 
 
 > 
 
 Classifioil In.iex to Advertisers ^''^*'^^ 
 
 Index to Maps .',.'..., 
 
 Index to Places ..'.*.'.'.'.'.','.'. 
 
 Introduction ..'.'...'.*."..'.*.'.*, 
 
 VARIOUS ROUTKS I!Y KAIL AND WATKU DICSCKIBkI) 
 
 BiifTalo, N.Y 
 
 Niiif^ara Falls " '♦"' 
 
 Suspension JW.'ijrVto Tirmio'hy''Sia^^ rklls'paVk an,i ' Ri;;.r ^^'^^ 
 
 Niagara '"'""" Navigation Co,, (Von. Queenston and 
 
 Siispensfu., Bridge ^o'ToroiVtJVik'aVwIbiVis^ ^^'^^ 
 way to St. Cmiiarines and Port Dailiousie, and Steamer Em- 
 press of India ri, r^ 
 
 Toronto ?7-58 
 
 Toronto to Lakes Simcoe" and' Conchicl.Vng Vi; GnuVl TrmVk ii;.', '''*""'* 
 
 Barne aiKi Oriilia >-<^ ^>,y., 
 
 Toronto to Montreal via C.P.ll. or G;;nd T^'ink R. H." lok]'u„\: ^'"^^ 
 
 on, and Rici.eJienct Ontario Xavigation Steamers, or %y 
 
 Man.h ?/.?.'r''Ti' ^u '"• 1"' ^^'I'^'^'ill''. Kingston. Thousand 
 
 Islands iJrockvdIe, Rapids of the St. Lawrence 67 lO"? 
 
 Montre.al to Ottawa v,a C.P R. or Ottawa River Navigation Co-; 
 S earners bt. Anne's Lake of Two MountainsT Carillon, 
 L Ongnal, Caledonui Springs ' ' ^nAu^^ 
 
 Ottawa ' fc • ••• 104-107 
 
 Montreal ,,',',', \v)V^ 
 
 Montreal to Quebec, via RichdiVu'^t OnuVi;' NkVigation' Co'.', 
 
 Sorel and liiree Rivers . ° i^o ,-> 
 
 Qii'bec ••;. ^8-102 
 
 Quebec to Lower St. Lawrence and Saguena; 'Ri'v;;,' ViVr. &'o. ' 
 Navigation Co Murray Bay, Tadousac and Hal lla 1 Bay 
 
 Quebec to Wlnte Mountains, via Quebec Central .t Grand Trunk 
 
 R.R., Sherbrooke, Island Pond, Gori.am and Portland ; or by 
 Quebec Central Ry., to Sherbrooke, and Boston & Maine Z 
 Newport, V t., thence by Boston & Maine Ry . . . . . . . . '. . log-DS 
 
 VVliite Mountains •' Torolo 
 
 Portland and Orchard Beach l'. ^'.'.'.'.[[i kt'lZ 
 
 Montreal and New York, via Central Vermon't Ry^'st! Alb.;;,; 
 
 and Burlington, and Chumplain Transportation Co . 207-209 
 
 fa^ ^u' ' ^'^T^'''^' "'" Adiron.lacks, Port Kent, Au- 
 sable Chasm, Lake George, and Albany; or by rail, to 
 Rouse s Point and Plattsburg, and the Champlain lUsport 
 jition Co. to Burlington ami Ticonderoga, thence by R.R. as 
 
 before to Albany and New York ...,. ^ ^^-^v. as 
 
 Saratoga -210210 
 
 217-234 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
INDEX 
 
 TO 
 
 CITIES, TOWNS AND PLACES OF INTEREST. 
 
 ID 
 
 Adiromiacka 
 
 Alexandiia Bay, N.Y .,,..'.'.". ^' 
 
 Ausuble Clia.sin, N.Y. .!!'.!.".* *.lj.*[.' 
 
 Barrie, Out •••••• 21 
 
 Basin, N.H ."!".'..'..".'.'.!'..".'.'.'.'. 
 
 Batigcai), Que '.......'.'.*.','." 
 
 Beauce Junction, Que....*.*,". !..'.'.".]* .'."'*' 
 
 Bcauliarnois, Que 
 
 Belleville, Ont .'." '.'.'.'.'.'.'.",'.',,', 
 
 Black Lake, Que '.'.*.'.''**.".*..'.' 
 
 Bowman ville, Out '**.'* 
 
 Brock's Monument, Ont 
 
 Brockville, Ont !..'." 
 
 Burlington, Vt ."..'.'.".*.'...." 
 
 Cacouna, Que !.,',...*'.'. 
 
 Caledonia Sprinj^s, Ont. ...".'," .\ .'.',". .'.','.*,* 
 
 Cannon Mountam, N.H ".'.!'..'.*!'.!! 
 
 Vnpe Eternity, Que ..'!.'!'...!..," 
 
 Cape Triniiy, Que '.".'..■...... 
 
 Cape Vincent ..'.....',' ' ' 
 
 Carillon, Que !!!!.!., '. 
 
 Caugiinawaga, Que '•'.'.'..'.'.'.',....". 
 
 Cedars, Que *...'....,!!. 
 
 Ciialeauguay Lake, Adiroiulacks ...!.. 
 
 Chaudiere Kiver, Que 
 
 Cliaudiere Falls, Que 
 
 Cliicoutimi, Que 
 
 Clayton, N.Y 
 
 Chry.-ler's Farm, Ont. ....."'. ]!".".''. 
 
 Cobourg, Ont ....'.'.".,.'.' 
 
 Cornwall, Out .*.*.',*'.".. 
 
 Coteau du Lac, Que V.'.... ! 
 
 Devil's Hole, Nia>gara Falls '.'..'. 
 
 Dickinson's Landmg, Out *.*...".'.'. 
 
 East Angus, Que 
 
 Eagle Cliif; N.H 
 
 1-2 1 ;i 
 
 N2 
 
 .i-2i(; 
 r.5 
 
 200 
 152 
 191 
 
 9;{ 
 
 72 
 
 191 
 
 (18 
 
 55 
 
 X5 
 
 208 
 
 176 
 
 107 
 
 195 
 
 184 
 
 188 
 
 74 
 
 107 
 
 m 
 
 94 
 215 
 171 
 171 
 187 
 
 79 
 
 88 
 
 G9 
 
 92 
 
 93 
 
 41 
 
 92 
 19,'{ 
 19tj 
 
 4 
 
«t> 
 
 INDEX . 
 
 XXI 
 
 PAGE 
 
 211-2i;5 
 «2 
 213.21(5 
 05 
 2U() 
 162 
 191 
 93 
 72 
 191 
 08 
 55 
 .S5 
 208 
 176 
 107 
 195 
 184 
 183 
 74 
 107 
 96 
 94 
 215 
 171 
 171 
 187 
 79 
 88 
 69 
 92 
 93 
 41 
 92 
 
 urn 
 
 19(j 
 
 ^ 
 
 «► 
 
 4 
 
 KclioLake, N.U '"*'■« 
 
 Kntivaufl, iV.H 196 
 
 Fliimo, The, N.H .'.', -"-' 
 
 FoitNiajrara, N.Y '...'.. -00 
 
 Fraiicoiiia Notch, N.U ^l 
 
 Ganar)oqiie 19(! 
 
 Gaitliby, Que ..."..'.'.'!.",' 79 
 
 Giosse Isle, Que ...,...'. ^'^ 
 
 Ooiliam, Quo l''' 
 
 Ha! Hal Bay, Que ."..'".',■. I'-'S 
 
 Harlaka JuDction, Quo... ^^^ 
 
 HowanI Falls, N.H... I'JO 
 
 l.-land of Orleans Que. .'.'.'! .".■.■■. 201 
 
 Kiii(,'stor), Out '.','.. ^^'} 
 
 Lacliiiie Kapiil.«, Que..,! ..'...'.'.' ^'^ 
 
 LakeCliainplaiii ^^''-^'^ 
 
 J^ake (Vmchiching, Ont...!... '^^^ 
 
 LakefieM, Ont ., [ (iC^ 
 
 Lake St. Cbarle.s Que. ..".*.' ".*.' "" 
 
 l.nke St. Franci.s Quo ^^'^ 
 
 Lake St. Peter, Que... ' '''•^ 
 
 Lake St. Joim, Quo.... .'.'.'.' iiii 1;^0 
 
 Lake VVeedon, Que 1"^ 
 
 ixnesouie Lake, N.H .,..'. ^^2 
 
 Leniioxvilje, Que 200 
 
 Lewi^tori, N.Y ',',['/, 19-^ 
 
 LongSault Rapids, Out !.'.".' ^2 
 
 Luna Island, Ont i'" 
 
 Lvon Mountain, Ailirondacks. "..'.*.'.".". ' J'l 
 
 L'Orifinal, Quo 212 
 
 Marbleton, Que \',\ 107 
 
 Mount Washuigton, n!h." .'.'.'.*.'." " ^'''2 
 
 Ma.ssena Springs, N. Y *. ' • ^ '''^ 
 
 Montreal, Que !.*!!."'..,".." ^^ 
 
 Montniorenci Falls, Que '.!!'..".". 112-145 
 
 Mount Lafavette, N.H....' l''^ 
 
 Mount McGregor. ; *.".*. *' 201 
 
 Murray Bay, Que '.'.., 234 
 
 Niagara, Ont [ 174 
 
 Niajia'a Fall.s, Ont ^<> 
 
 Ogdensliurg, N.Y..., 12-50 
 
 Oka, Que.. .".■■.;;;; so 
 
 01(1 Orchard Beach. Me 106 
 
 Orillia, Ont !.' .'!."'.'.*."!. 204-206 
 
 Ottawa, Ont 06 
 
 Peterborough, Ont.... 108 111 
 
 Plattsburg, N.Y '. 71 
 
 Port Kent, N.Y 211 
 
 Port Hoi)e, Ont 214 
 
 69 
 
xxu 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PA(1E 
 
 I'uul, N.ll -01 
 
 l\.ithiii(l, Me ■'iO.'J 
 
 PicscoU, LMi( «7 
 
 Profile Lnl<p, N.ll l'J« 
 
 Piolilc" lto(;U, N.H 19H 
 
 Prosix'Ci Park, Niagara Falls IH 
 
 Qiidicc '5:^ 
 
 Qih'Ik'o OmI imI Railway I'JO-lM 
 
 Qiioc-iiHloii, Out ^'1 
 
 Uidpan Lakes <!7 
 
 liiviore dn Loup, Que '75 
 
 Uouso'fl Pont, N.Y '-^10 
 
 St. Anm'H,Qiie lO-J 
 
 Sagnenay Uiver, Que 177-1^*9 
 
 8aranac Lake, Adirondacks 212 
 
 Saratoga Sprinj^s, N.Y 217-2;{4 
 
 Slierbrooke, Que I'J' 
 
 Silver Cascade, N.H 201 
 
 SinilhV Falls, Out C7 
 
 Sorel, Que 150 
 
 St. Albans, Vt 207 
 
 St. Anne's Falls, Que 174 
 
 St. Uelen's Island, Que 150 
 
 St. llejris, Que 0;i 
 
 St. Catiiarines, Out 57 
 
 Talousac, Que 17H 
 
 Tlietfonl Mines, Que _ j91 
 
 Tluiusand Islands - ' o-_7'^ 
 
 Three Sisters, Niaj^aia Fal Is 'i"5 
 
 Three Kivers, Que 152 
 
 Ticonderoftn, N.Y 217 
 
 Toronto, Out 59-(;4 
 
 Trenton, Out 70 
 
 'J'wo Mountains, Que 105 
 
 Victoria IJridje, Que I'lO 
 
 Wliiilpool Rapids, Nia>;ara Falls 50 
 
 Windmill Point, Out 87 
 
 Waddingtou, N. Y 83 
 
 While Mountains, N.H 19r)-202 
 
 Walker's Falls. N.H 200 
 
INOiCX. 
 
 201 
 
 2o;{ 
 
 87 
 I'JH 
 198 
 
 IK 
 
 153 
 
 1 1)0-1 9:{ 
 
 54 
 
 (;7 
 
 175 
 210 
 105 
 
 177-H9 
 212 
 
 217-2:U 
 194 
 201 
 G7 
 150 
 207 
 174 
 150 
 
 »;5 
 
 57 
 
 178 
 
 191 
 
 75-7S 
 
 •53 
 
 152 
 
 217 
 
 . 59-04 
 
 70 
 
 105 
 
 14G 
 
 50 
 
 87 
 
 83 
 
 ,195-202 
 
 200 
 
 INDEX TO MAPS. 
 
 r.iiKiratnii of NMagarii VnWx uikI St, l.iiwioiiw Kiver, facing imgix 
 • iniiid 'I'niiik llMihviiy, »■ •• 
 
 C'liiiiiiliiin l'Hi!ill(,' Kiillwiiy, •' <i 
 
 MiigiUM I'lillH I'iirk & Hiver Kiiihvay, '< " 
 
 Ill 
 
 (H, 1U«, VIS 
 
 
 122 
 
 
 
 m 
 
 
 -tH 
 
 ' ' if 
 
 CLASSIFIED INDEX TO ADVERTISERS. 
 BOOTS and SHOES. 
 
 IJiiiylM.ii n. B., Toronto, Out ....Miip fiicliig |i. t!) 
 
 Sti'wiirt \V. II., Moiitroul, (^110 Ma|) facing p. lO'.i 
 
 CHEWING CUM. 
 
 Colin «ri)». & Kko, Now York xv 
 
 CONFECTIONERY. 
 
 Tfster J. W., &Co., Montreal o;j7 
 
 CIGARS. 
 
 I)uvl8 Sam., & Sous, Montreal Map facing p. G5 
 
 Villeiiciive, " yjij 
 
 HATTERS and FURRIERS. 
 
 Jlcmlerson J., & Co., Montreal I 
 
 Lalil)citu J. lJ.,(iiiobec < )pp(i8itB pugo fJH oiul of J'uuoraniic map 
 
 HOTELS. 
 
 Avt'iLue lIouBO; Montreal, Que,. [•'.. S. Koyiiolds ii 
 
 Hotel Cliamplaiii, Blurt' l'(iii,t, N.Y„ O. S. Seavoy ' xvl 
 
 ITotol Klorciicc, (.luclit'c, I!. 'J'rudel ji j 
 
 lIoteM'ictoria, do do iji 
 
 Jacques Cai-Ucr Hotel, Moiitro.il,(^)uo., T, Shallow Map faeini,' p. 12'J 
 
 (jKieeii's Hotel, 'J'orouto, Cint., Jl<''?avv & Winuett .. ., (H» 
 
 f^>ueen's Koyal, Niagara-oiittie-,. i ■ Ont 
 
 I'nited States, Saratoga, K.Y., '! )iiii)kiiis. Gage & Perry 220 
 
 Walker House, Toronto, Ont.,.1oliii Wright Front cover 
 
 HOUSE FURNISHINGS, Etc. 
 
 l.ecomto Omer, Quebei; v 
 
 Surveyor L. J. A., Montreal, Quo 
 
 Map lacing p. 109 
 
 LIVERY STABLES. 
 
 .Vdams & Hodgson, Saratoga Springs, N. Y , 221 
 
 Hough George, Quehec vi 
 
 MILLINERY and DRESSMAKING. 
 
 Drake Helen, Jloutreal , yj 
 
 Valleo Mdme., (Juehec y 
 
xxiv 
 
 Itmliior 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 MINERAL WATFRS. 
 
 Uoil, .SaiiitiiKii, N.Y n"\". •• •■• xl 
 
 Koyal ..... Bftfk of map fHcIng p. i'.a 
 
 MUSEUMS Of ART. 
 
 S(K'!uty of Arts, Montreal, Que 
 
 Thos. Tugliy, N'iun.ira Falls, X.Y. .". . ...'..*. .','."." 
 
 l.lv.TiK.lM J. K., (Juehec. 
 Vallcu I,. r.,Qiu'bec ... 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHS, Etc. 
 
 (ialc 11..;., Qui. bee. 
 
 OLD CURIOSITY SHOPS. 
 
 xvii, xvlll 
 
 ix 
 xil 
 
 vll 
 
 V 
 
 PIANOS and ORGANS. 
 
 D..iiii;il(.ii Organ .V Piano (Jo., llowinanvilli', Ont ... 
 Foisy Fruros, M jiitroal 
 
 RAILWAYS. 
 
 0«mi.nanPacl.lc Hallway Mnp facing p. 
 
 Delaware & Hudson Hallway 
 
 QucLcc Central Railway .' 
 
 Q..oi,oo& Lake St. Join; Railway. :.;:.;v;;..\';.::;.;:;;.;v.','.'.".;i;i;p'fa;,ngp; 
 
 (.ran,l I n.nk Ky B,ick of Cover an,l ,n,.p faeing ,. 
 
 Niagara Falls Park & Ulver Ky j,ap faci.i \. 
 
 RESTAU.^ANT. 
 
 Crystal Palace, Quebec, Jos. Treniblay 
 
 STEAMSHIP and STEAMBOAT LINES. 
 
 Clnonplain Tran.sport!ilion Co., Geo. Uashlow, Gen. Manager 
 
 Niagara Xavigation Co 
 
 Otta,v.t Hiver Navigation Co '''.'.'^'.'^^^ZZ:::.Z':::^'^^{;_ 
 
 Hicl.elieu& Ontario Navigation Co Map lacing p. 
 
 SEWING MACHINES, Etc. 
 
 Poisy Frores. Montreal 
 
 SPORTING GOODS. 
 
 V.&B. Sporting Goods Co., Quebec Mapfaeiiigp. 
 
 SOUVENIR GOODS. 
 
 Cochenthaler M., & Co., Arontreal, Que insuie baok cover and 
 
 Hemsley H., Montreal, (^ue n.^uie f,ont cover and 
 
 beifertG., Quebec 
 
 2t!) 
 vli 
 
 80 
 xill, xlv 
 
 iao-io;t 
 
 (>4 
 48 
 
 1!3S 
 xil 
 
 108 
 
 IT 
 
 vil 
 
 1J8 
 
 240 
 
 129 
 
 iv 
 
 
 
 i 
 
ix 
 xil 
 
 vii 
 
 V 
 
 h 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 L'.llt 
 Vii 
 
 80 
 till, xiv 
 190-103 
 
 I 'J'.' 
 
 4S 
 
 -'38 
 xii 
 1(18 
 IT 
 
 1J8 
 
 240 
 
 129 
 
 iv 
 
 THE All-Round Route and Panoramic Guide 
 OF THE St. Lawrence has far exceeded in success 
 the most sanguine anticipations, of the proprietofs 
 and they feel that their desire to publish such a book as 
 would meet the requirements cf the traveller, in making 
 the popular tours described therein, have been fully an- 
 preciated. ^ 
 
 They feel certain the present edition will prove still 
 more useful and attractive than all previous ones, advan- 
 tage having been taken of suggestions made in regard to 
 alterations, additions and improvements. 
 
 Every attention has been given to securing accuracy 
 of detail, so as to make this work a most reliable and 
 valuable Guide to tourists ; and the Publishers, therefore 
 hope to secure a continuance of support and patronage' 
 They still solicit suggestions which may tend to benefit 
 the work in future editions, and all favors will be duly 
 acknowledged and, whenever practicable, made use of. 
 
f 
 
 All-Round Route 
 
 AND 
 
 PANORAMIC GUIDE 
 
 OP THE 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 Buffalo. 
 
 This important and beautiful city is situated at the 
 eastern end of Lake Erie, where the Niagara River leaves 
 the Lake on its way over the Falls of Niagara to Lake 
 Ontario, and is a fitting starting point to our itinerary. 
 It is one of the great railway centres of the United 
 States, being the terminus of the great Trunk Lines, 
 both East and West, as well as the great roads that 
 reach the vast lumber, coal and oil fields of Pennsyl- 
 vania. Its shipping interests are most extensive, as it is 
 the principal emporium for the cereal products and flour 
 of the Great West in course of transmission and distri- 
 bution to Eastern points. Being the western terminus 
 of the Erie Canal, the great agricultural and a full share 
 of the mineral wealth of the West here stops to pay toll 
 in course of transhipment, thereby enriching the pros- 
 perity of Buffalo. In manufactures it has a foremost 
 place, and bids fair ere long to outstrip all other points 
 
 Jii 
 
 Ik 
 
 f 
 
i 
 
 \i I 
 
 .ill 
 
 ; 
 
 ALL-HOUND ROUTE \ND TANOKAMIC GUIDK 5 
 
 in the Union, when the magnificent and stupendous 
 scheme of tapping the enormous water power of Niagara 
 by a tunnel, and bringing it to Buffalo, is accomplished— 
 a scheme which the energy and enterprise ofsome of its 
 most prominent men is actually pushing to completion. 
 Factories will then spring up like magic, and thousands 
 of wage-earners will be added to the respectable army of 
 that class of citizens which the city now owns. Like all 
 great commercial centres-^the result of the application 
 of brains and energy to .. ural advantages, its advance- 
 ment in culture and education has kept pace with its 
 material development, and Buffalo provides for its citi- 
 zens unsurpassed facilities for general instruction, and in 
 some specialties it takes the lead, and invites the whole 
 continent to participation. Particularly is this the case 
 with respect to a practical business traininvr. 
 
 Among the notable institutions of Buffalo is the well- 
 known Bryant & Stratton Business College, located in 
 the new college building, 99 W. Genesee st., corner Nia- 
 gara Square. 
 
 This college was established in 1854, and has a high 
 reputation for giving a most thorough, practical and 
 complete business education. Its patronage extends to 
 every State and territory and all the Canadian provinces. 
 Graduates of this time-honored institution are uniformly 
 successful, and may be found occupying important posi- 
 tions throughout the country, from the Atlantic to the 
 Pacific. References and commendations are given of 
 the high character of the school from all sections of the 
 country. 
 
 J, 
 
 % 
 
6 ALL-ROUND ROUTK AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 The Bryant & Stratton Buffalo Business College is 
 one of the pioneer business schools in America. ''It 
 stands at the head'' and is one of the few institutions that 
 has a building of its own constructed specially for its 
 purpose. This is a great advantage, as it affords un- 
 equalled facilities and has every modern improvement, 
 adding to each student's comfort and enabling him to 
 accomplish much more than would otherwise be possible. 
 For ten years this school has made a specialty of giving 
 a thorough course by mail for those who desire a business 
 education but cannot leave home. It is commended in 
 the highest terms. Visitors to Buffalo are always wel- 
 come, or a handsome catalogue will be mailed free upon 
 request. 
 
 Caton's National Business College, 460 Main st., 
 also offers the best advantages for a thorough business 
 education. It has achieved great success, and a diploma 
 from it may be regarded as a passport to advancement 
 in all clerical pursuits and business generally. 
 
 Main street is the principal thoroughfare of the city, 
 and divides it into East and West sides. Delaware 
 avenue. North Street, and other adjoining streets in- 
 clude the fashionable district for residences. A ride 
 through this to the Front and the Park over the smooth 
 asph..it pavement is very enjoyable. The Front Ger- 
 mania Park and the Parade, so popular with east-side 
 folk, are also pleasant places of resort. The unrivalled 
 summer climate of Buffalo, its fine hotels and its prox- 
 imity to Niagara Prills makes it an unusually attractive 
 
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 -H 
 
 
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ill 
 
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 <- 
 
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 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 7 
 
 city to tourists. There are several fine trips which have 
 Buffalo as their starting point, but the most desirable 
 and fashionable is that " up the Lakes," which no tourist 
 should fail to take. 
 
 The average American traveller, 
 accustomed as he is to the 
 many luxuries of modern trans- 
 portation, nevertheless, is al- 
 ways on the alert for any in- 
 novation that caters to his 
 creature comforts, whether it 
 be in the shape of elegance of 
 surroundings, ease and comfort of sleeping accommoda- 
 tions, speed of his transporting medium or mere gastric 
 novelties. In the early history of the great lakes the 
 passenger steamboats that plied between Buffalo and 
 Upper Lake ports were supposed to be the acme of trans- 
 portation facilities, but with the advent of the exclu- 
 sively passenger steamships, each accommodating 450 
 passengers, of the Nortlicrti Steamship Company, that 
 will ply between Buffalo and Duluth, in connection 
 with the Great Northern Raikvay, commencing with the 
 first Tuesday in June, 189^, the march of improvement 
 has eclipsed the old style of steamboat not only in ele- 
 gance of appointment, novelty of arrangement, elabor- 
 ateness of detail, and superiority of cuisine, but in speed 
 as well. 
 
 ] 
 
8 
 
 ALL-UOUNU UOUTK ANU PANORAMIC GUIUK, 
 
 The vessels have been ■ built under special survey in 
 order to obtain the highest classification in the United 
 States Standard Rules. The construction throughout 
 has been planned and carried out with the view of mak- 
 ing these vessels not only the most modern and 
 luxurious, but also the strongest and safest conveyances 
 on the lakes. 
 
 TIIK INTERIOR. 
 
 Crossing the gangway we enter the vestibule, and the 
 ticket office, steward's office and men's cafe totheritrht • 
 to the loft the i)arcel room and main stairway to the 
 saloon above. 
 
 On the spar deck is the grand saloon, with its long 
 sweeping lines of beraity, lofty roof, the mellow light from 
 the amber-tinted glass, the highly polished and carved 
 mahogany, the panels tinted in warm russet-green tones, 
 the relief work picked out with gold, the luxuriously 
 upholstered furniture and sumptuous carpets. 
 
 h 
 
 1 
 

 ALL-ROUND KOUTP: AND J'ANOHAMrO GUIDK. 9 
 
 A special feature, and one that adds much to the 
 appearance of the grand saloon, is the finely designed 
 balcony front. This, like all other brass work on the 
 boat, has an "antique brass" finish that harmonizes and 
 contrasts with the mahogany finish in a very pleasing 
 manner. 
 
 The staterooms arc arrarsged in a double line along the 
 sides of the vessel, and are all handsomely finished and 
 fitted out, well lighted and ventilated. Many of the 
 rooms arc provided with sliding doors, so that two state- 
 rooms, if desired, may be used as one. Several large and 
 more sumptuously finished staterooms with private 
 bath and lavatory connected havealso been provided for. 
 On the port side of this deck are located toilet and 
 bath rooms for ladies, while on the starboard side are the 
 bath rooms and lavatories for gentlemen. The barber 
 shop is also on this deck, next forward of the gentle- 
 men's lavatory. 
 
 At the fore end of the hurricane or promenade deck a 
 large deckhouse has been fitted with exceptionally large 
 and handsome staterooms— the entire house is beauti- 
 fully finished in panelled white mahogany, and ev-ry con- 
 ceivable convenience for the comfort of the passengers 
 has been provided. The house may be entered from the 
 hurricane deck or from the spar deck by means of a 
 handsomely finished staircase. A large, airy and beauti- 
 fully finished smoking room has been arranged at the 
 fore end of this house, commanding an unobstructed 
 view in front and on both sides of the vessel. 
 
 
 i 
 
10 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE, 
 
 It has been the purpose of the management to build 
 the finest boats on the lakes — that shall be remarkable 
 for their thorough construction — their safety — speed 
 and beauty — to the critical admirer of marine architec- 
 ture, there is nothing to be desired — the decorations and 
 furnishings appeal to cultivated taste and are of a char- 
 acter to please and attract the general public. 
 
 The following is the proposed schedule for the exclu- 
 sively passenger steel steamships " North-West " and 
 "North Land " of this Line. 
 
 From Buffalo, Tuesday, June 5th, until October 9th. 
 From Duluth, JuneSth, until October 12th, all inclusive. 
 
 Leave Buffalo, 
 Arrive Cleveland, 
 Leave Cleveland, 
 Arrive Detroit, 
 Leave Detroit, 
 Leave Sault. 
 Arrive Duluth, 
 
 Leave Duluth, 
 Leave Sault, 
 Arrive Detroit, 
 Leave Detroit, 
 Arrive Cleveland, 
 Leave Cleveland, 
 Ar.nve Buffalo, 
 
 , . . Tuesday, 
 
 9 P- 
 
 M. 
 
 , . . Wednesday, 5 A. 
 
 M. 
 
 (t 
 
 8 A. 
 
 M. 
 
 « 
 
 2 P. 
 
 M. 
 
 (1 
 
 3 P. 
 
 M. 
 
 . . . Thursday, 
 
 12 M. 
 
 
 . . . Friday, 
 
 8 A. 
 
 M. 
 
 RETURNING. 
 
 
 
 . . . Friday, 
 
 4 P. 
 
 M. 
 
 . . . Saturday, 
 
 12 M. 
 
 
 . . . Sunday, 
 
 10 A. 
 
 M. 
 
 ti 
 
 II A. 
 
 M 
 
 it 
 
 5 P. 
 
 M 
 
 Ci 
 
 • • • 
 
 8 P. 
 
 M. 
 
 . . . Monday, 
 
 6 A. 
 
 M. 
 
 f i 
 
 i 
 
ALL-UOUND KOUTK AND PANOkAMK) CUIDK. 
 
 u 
 
 III 
 
 
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 \ I 
 
 , 
 
12 
 
 AI.I.-HOl'M. liOUTK AND I'ANOHAMlC GUIDE. 
 
 N.agara tails, the great Mecca of all tourists, may be 
 reached from Buffalo by .ithcr of two routes. By rail in 
 the luxurious cars of the N.Y. Central Railway 'or 
 by water via the palace steamer Cohunbia. of the 
 R.cheheu & Ontario Navigation Company to the 
 picturesque old town of Chippawa. and thence by the 
 I^mgara La.ls River and Park Railway, the new electric 
 l.nerecenth- constructed, which has revolutionised the old 
 style cf seeing Niagara. 
 
 NIAGARA FALLS. 
 
 F all the specimens 
 of Nature's handi- 
 work on this con- 
 tinent, the Falls 
 ofNiagaraare the 
 grandest. At all 
 seasons and under 
 all circumstances, 
 under all the vary, 
 ing effects of sun- 
 
 ,; , . , , ''ght. or moon- 
 
 light, or the dazzling glare of electric illumination the 
 scene ,s always sublime. The whirling floods, the cease- 
 less monotone of the thunderous roar, the vast clouds of 
 spray and mist that catch in their depths the dancino- 
 sunbeams, and transform them into hues of a thousand 
 rauibows, seem striving to outvie each other In the tri 
 bate of homage to the mighty "Thunderer of the 
 
ALL-IiuUND UOUTK AND PaXoUAMJO GUIDr. I3 
 
 The Niagara River, extending from Lake Erie to. 
 Lake Ontario, a distance of thirty miles, has a total fall 
 of 334 feet ; the greater part of the descent is confined 
 to a distance of seven or eight miles, uithin which space 
 are the grandest Rapids and Falls in the world The 
 rapids are so strong two miles above the Falls as to 
 entirely prevent navigation. 
 
 The Falls of Niagara may justly be classed among 
 the wonders of the world. They are the pride of 
 America, and their grandeur, magnitude and magni- 
 ficence are well known to all the civilized world Ever 
 smce the discovery of this wonderful cataract, thousands- 
 have flocked thither from all countries, to gaze with feel- 
 ings of the deepest solemnity on the tumultuous fall of 
 vvater and to adore the power and majesty of the 
 Almighty as there exhibited and realized amid the 
 sublime scenery of this stupendous water-fall. 
 
 Over this great cataract has been pouring ceaselessly 
 through the centuries of the past, with the deafening roar 
 of a thousand thunders, a torrent of water over three- 
 fourths of a mile wide and 200 feet in depth, or an a-crre- 
 gate, ,t is calculated, of a hundred million tons per hour 
 No wonder that to this grandest of natural shrines our 
 untutored aborigines were wont to come yearly and wor- 
 ship their Great Spirit, and propitiate him by the sacri- 
 fice of an Indian maiden, sent down on the current in a> 
 flower-laden canoe to her death in the terrible vortex • 
 no wonder that they led thither the first missionaries- 
 who penetrated these wilds, and pointed in speechless 
 awe to the mighty cataract ; and no wonder that in 
 
14 ALL-ROUND ROUTK AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 these latter days thousands of tourists from every part 
 of this continent and Europe annally make this spot 
 their destination, and stand gazing in mute surprise, as 
 did the savage and the priest before them; at this won- 
 der of the world. 
 
 In the following pages we shall attempt to guide the 
 traveller to the various points whence the finest views 
 of the Falls and the scenery surrounding them may be 
 obtained, and thereafter conduct him to the spots of 
 peculiar interest in the neighborhood. 
 
 Father Hennepin, a French Jesuit missionary, was 
 the first white to see the Falls of Niagara, when on an 
 expedition of discovery in the year 1678, over two hun- 
 dred years ago, and the first description of them was 
 published by him in 1683. 
 
 They are shown upon Sanson's map of Canada 
 (spelled "Ongiara") published at Paris in 1657, and on 
 Champlain's of 1632. 
 
 The points of interest to be visited, besides the great 
 Fall itself, and the National Park surrounding in on 
 both sides of the Line, are : The Rapids above the Falls, 
 and the old town of Chippewa ; the ground where the 
 memorable battle of Lundy's Lane was fought; the 
 Whirlpool below the Falls, and the Rapids on both'sides 
 of the River ; the Suspension bridges ; the Gorge to 
 Lewiston, 7 miles in length ; and the Lower Niagara 
 River, from Lewiston to Lake Ontario, 14 miles distant 
 — on the American side; the Gorge to Queenston 
 
 J 
 
ALL-T!OUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 15 
 
 and to Queenston Heights ; General Brock's Monument ; 
 and the Lower River to Lake Ontario— on the Cana^ 
 dian side. 
 
 General opinion is much divided as to which side of 
 the Falls affords the most attractions, many travellers 
 asserting that the American side has superior charms, 
 as the Rapids and Goat Island are to be reached from' 
 that side only ; whilst others take the broa-jcr view of 
 the question— that the minor attractions ought to rive 
 place to the Falls, and that the only place to obtain^n 
 unmterrupted view of the two mighty cataracts is from 
 the Canadian side. 
 
 The Village of the Falls, on the American side, lies 
 on the east side of the river, in the immediate vicinity 
 of the grand cataract, 22 miles by rail from the city of 
 Buffalo on Lake Erie, and 300 by rail from Albany. 
 This is a fashionable place of resort during summer and 
 autumn, and a most pleasant resting-place for those who 
 mtend to sojourn for a time within sound of the 
 Falls. 
 
 To those who intend visiting " the Falls," we would 
 recommend the long-established and complete " Cataract 
 House," at this point, which is situated on the bank of 
 the river, overlooking the rapids above the American 
 Falls, and within a stone's throw of the torrent. 
 
 From its windows and piazzas, the rapids, the beautiful 
 islands and the American Falls are in plain view. In 
 the spaciousness and cleanliness of its rooms, the ela- 
 gance of its appointment, the completeness of its service, 
 and the taste, daintiness and richness of its table, it will 
 bear comparison with the best anywhere. 
 
 1 1 
 
16 ALL-Ki^IND ROUfE AND 1'ANOIIA.MIG GUIDK. 
 
 Before leaving the tails most people wish to obtain 
 •ome memento of their visit. We may mention that their 
 taste in this respect may be amply gratified at Tiigbys 
 Museum where photographs, curiosities and souvenirs of 
 endless variety may be procured. Tugby makes a spec 
 >alty of articles made from the rock of the Falls. 
 
 It is scarcely necessary to say that days of sojourn at 
 the balls are desirable to see them in all their varying 
 aspects, and become fully acquainted with their beauty 
 and grandeur, underrated by those who only make a 
 flying visit. Jiut a short time since, Niagara Va\h had 
 gained an unenviable notoriety for the ta.x~if not 
 indeed to be termed c.xtortion-which was levied upon 
 every visitor for the privilege of obtaining access to any 
 pomt from which the I-'a!!, could be viewed. 
 
 Particularly was this the case on the American side • 
 but nou all that has been changed, and " Free Nia<Tara'' 
 invites all the world to come and view its beautres as 
 the greatest wonder of Nature on this Continent. 
 
 _ To see the Falls thoroughly formerly cost for admis- 
 sions over $5; but now the whole is thrown open/r., 
 excepting, of course, such extras as passing „„der the 
 fMs, crossing the ferry, taking the Inclined RaiUvav 
 or going over the Suspension Bridge. A visiror cn'i 
 conveniently reach the whole on foot, or take a carriac^e 
 for the purpose, without any additional expense, further 
 than a charge of 10 cts. for crossing the bridge to the 
 
 ^ands on the Canadian side on foot, and from 25 ct. 
 *■<' . ' '-• j. in r carriage. 
 
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Advertisements. 
 
 The 
 
 AMERICA'S SCENIC LINE 
 
 I^iebelieu Si Ontopio 
 
 Owning and operating the 
 greatest Line of St'eamers 
 on inland waters .... 
 
 ■ACUIML H*>" 
 
 Dooigotion ^o. 
 
 SOO IHiks of Lakeii, Rivers and Rapids 
 
 FROM 
 
 TORONTO 
 
 Montreal, Quebec and the 
 Far-famed Sagnenay 
 
 I'assing throueli tue cliarni- 
 ing suenery of the .... 
 
 TIIOIISAKD ISLAKUS and the 
 
 wnrldrenowiied RAPIDS of the 
 
 ST. lAWRESCE RIVER. 
 
 *« 
 
 P 
 t 
 
 S 
 
 F 
 o 
 
 c< 
 
 f< 
 tl 
 
 is 
 k 
 
 TorOlltO«Montf/ll lolnc^ TUemie iron steamers "Spai tan," "Cor- 
 loavin. Toronto L.y ex..pt Sunda^ 'aVs^ urSil.r^t^'Ku-^e^^c'j^Iff.ri^: 
 « i?A'^''y' "* "r"f "t «ow"«n^"'« Po't Hope CoS Kln™rciay?Sn Kound 
 ajui connecting at Montreal with steamers for (Quebec and the Saguenay. 
 Al0tltr<?dl*0u?bpC IqIMP The palatial iron steamers "Quebec "and 
 
 composed of the magnificent iron steamers 
 
 "'^— "■ - " "Cauada," ami '•Sagne- 
 
 30 a.m., foi- Chicoutimi. 
 
 .^V^fr^olwm^Sa^ve^Jn^b'^Vn^'"^ ""^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 'a^ingaf in';n.ledlatr^r?s'!''''' "'''''' '""'''P* S""'^''>"' "*» ^ ' '" ' ^ -^■' 
 
 mm 
 
 Tir'Uo'f'ft an>J luformatlon may be obtained from the principal Railway an.l 
 r.„„,=^ 1 Ticket pfflces throughout the United States and Canada. State- 
 
 rooms can be secured on application to 
 
 J. P. OOLAN, No. 2 King Street East, TOUNOTO, Ont. 
 
 H. FOSTER CHAFFBB, Dlst. Pass. Agent, m St. James St., MONTREAL, Que. 
 
 L. H. MYRAND, QUEBEC, Que. 
 
 C. F. Gildepsleeve, 
 
 , -» _ - General Manager. 
 
 U G Fopdet, Alex. Milloy 
 
 President. Traffic Manager 
 
 6E«JERAL OFFICES ; 228 St. Paut Street, MONTREAL 
 
ALL-ROUND R0UTJ5 AND PANORAMIC GUIDE, 
 
 17 
 
 en and Rapids 
 
 ro 
 
 ) and the 
 Saguenay 
 
 ue charm- 
 le . . . , 
 
 the 
 
 mSoftlie 
 RESCE KIVEK. 
 
 tan," " Cor- 
 ' Algerian," 
 ,'30 p.m. tlie 
 ton, Round 
 d Cornwall. 
 
 uebec, " and 
 itrea! daily 
 tiling at in- 
 
 on steamers 
 nil '• Sag\ie- 
 Cliicoutimi. 
 
 Mlway and 
 lula. State- 
 
 lEAL, Que- 
 
 oy, 
 
 io Manager 
 
 The movement for the preservation of the scenery of 
 the Falls of Niagara originated with the State of New 
 York in the year 1869. On the 30th of April, 1883, the 
 State Legislature passed an Act entitled : " An Act to 
 authorize the selection, location and appropriation of 
 certain lands in the Village of Niagara Falls for a State 
 Reservation, and to preserve the scenery of ^Niagara 
 Falls." On April 30th, 1885, the establishment of the 
 Reservation was provided for by the passage of an Act, 
 entitled : " An Act to provide for the payment of the- 
 awards for the lands selected and located by the Com- 
 missioners of the State Reservation at Niagara." 
 
 The sum of $1,433,000 was devoted to the purchase 
 of lands, etc., and a tract of 107 acres was made a Re- 
 servation, which was declared formally open to the 
 public on the 15th of July, 1885. 
 
 The area expropriated by the American Government 
 includes Goat Island and adjacent smaller islands, with 
 what is known as Prospect Park and a strip of land on 
 the mainland. By this noble act, which received official 
 imprimatur at the hands of Grover Cleveland, the Go- 
 vernor of the State of New York, afterwards President 
 of the Union, the freedom of the Falls in the United 
 States Territory was effected by the removal of all char- 
 ges, while the simplicity a- id grace of the many lovely 
 spots sui rounding the great cataract was restored by the 
 removal of many of the unsightly buildings and eyesores 
 which overspread them. In viewing the scenery of the 
 Falls of Niagara from the American side, the visitor 
 
 B 
 
i» 
 
 18 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 should take in what is called the Grove, on the mainland, 
 then the Islands— followed by the points of view on the 
 River Road, and the places of interest not included in 
 the Reservation. The Grove comprises the grounds of 
 the old Prospect Park Company, including what are 
 familiarly known as the " Ferry Grove" and " Point 
 View," purchased by the Prospect Park Company in 
 1872. Within the " Ferry Grove" are the Ferry Pavilion, 
 Groves and Fountains ; rarely, indeed, do Nature and 
 Art 30 perfectly combine to spread before the delighted 
 gaze so much that is wonderful, beautiful and sublime- 
 Passing through the umbrageous grove, along the beau- 
 tiful winding carriage drives, we emerge upon the Point 
 where thousands of visitors have been photographed, 
 the grand adjacent scenery being utilized to fill in the 
 pictures. 
 
 A solid wall of masonry guards this spot, and conti- 
 nues along the banks of the River to the Suspension 
 Bridge. Standing at the angle, directly over the Amer- 
 ican Falls, so close that one might almost thrust out 
 his hand into the roaring mass of water as it rolls seeth- 
 ing by, wc have spread before us a magnificent view of 
 Goat Island, the Horseshoe Falls, the Suspension Bridge, 
 the American Falls, with frowning rocks below, and the 
 Ferry to the Canada side. Cool, shady walks run in 
 all directions through the Grove, and rustic seats at in- 
 tervals invite the visitor so linger here and gaze at the 
 magnificent scenery. In the beautiful Pavilion, visitors 
 can " trip the light fantastic toe " within sound of the 
 roar of the great cataract. A fine restaurant is also on 
 
3UIDE. 
 
 e mainland, 
 view on the 
 included in 
 grounds of 
 g- what arc 
 md " Point 
 Company in 
 ry Pavilion, 
 Nature and 
 e dch'ghted 
 id sublime* 
 I the beau- 
 1 the Point 
 tographed, 
 ' fill in the 
 
 and conti- 
 suspension 
 the Amer- 
 thrust out 
 rolls secth- 
 :nt view of 
 on Bridge, 
 V, and the 
 Iks run in 
 sats at in- 
 ize at the 
 n, visitors 
 nd of the 
 is also on 
 
 ALL-IIOUXD ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 19 
 
20 
 
 ALL-BOUND ROUTE AND PANUUAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 the grounds, where they can regale the inner man when 
 tired of sight-seeing. Then we may enter the Ferry 
 House and descend the Inclined Railway through a cut 
 in the bank to the water's edge, a distance of 360 feet, 
 to the steamboat landing at the base of the American 
 Falls. The spiral stairs constructed herein 1825 having 
 become shaky with age, the present novel but commo- 
 dious contrivance was inaugurated. The flight of steps 
 leading along the railway consist of 290 steps. The car 
 is drawn up the inclined plane by water power, an over- 
 shot wheel being turned by a stream diverted from the 
 river for that purpose. Aroimd a wheel eight feet in 
 diameter, which turns in a horizontal position at the head 
 of the railway, runs a cable two and a half inches in dia- 
 meter and 300 feet in length, attached to a car a: either 
 end, and supported by pulleys placed at convenient inter- 
 vals down the grade. At the foot of the stairs, turning 
 to the left, from the base of the descending torrent, one 
 of the most magnificent views of the Falls may be ob- 
 tained, looked at through those wonderful clouds of 
 rising spray, refracting the sun's rays in all colors of 
 the rainbow, and sparkling and shimmeiing in the light, 
 Hke clouds of diamond dust. The Ferry to the Canadian 
 side is close at hand, and from this point, called " Hen- 
 nepin View," the best general view of the Falls from the 
 Grove may be had. Seating ourselves in the ferry boat 
 we are soon dancing over the agitated waters. From 
 the river the Falls ate seen to great advantage. For- 
 merly the shades of night brought the pleasures of the 
 day to a close, but science and enterprise have lengthened 
 the hours of enjoyment for us. Eighteen electric lights 
 
ALL-KOUiND ROUTE AND PANOUAMIC GUIDK. 21 
 
 pour their brilliant rays upon the scene, infusing the 
 spray clouds with gorgeous rainbow tints, and illuminat- 
 hv^ the rolling waters with a brilliancy beyond descrip- 
 tion. The Canadian side stands out clear and distinct, 
 and the whole scene is wonderfully beautiful, weird and 
 sublime. 
 
 There is fascination about this mighty cataract which 
 seems to chain us to this spot ; and when we seek to 
 leave it, draws us irresistibly back again. Even in de- 
 scribing it, however inadequately the task may be ac- 
 complished, we are loth to lay down the pen and tear 
 ourselves away. The Almighty has invested Niagara 
 with a power that none can resist ; and they who gaze 
 upon it for the first time have a new era in their exis- 
 ence opened up, new thoughts and impressions stamped 
 indelibly upon their hearts, which haunt them in after 
 years, and linger in their memories till time is swallowed 
 in eternity. 
 
 We should explain that the larger cataract stretching, 
 from shore to shore is the Canadian or Horseshoe Fall, 
 whilst the smaller one is the American. The dimen- 
 sions of the two Falls must necessarily be a matter of 
 computation, and they are estimated as follows : — 
 
 The American Fall, looo feet across, with a drop of 
 164 feet. 
 
 The Canadian Fall, 2600 feet, following the contour, 
 with a drop of 158 feet; and it is stated by Professor 
 Lyell that fifteen millions of cubic feet of water pass 
 over this fall every minute ! 
 
09 
 
 ALL-KOUND KOUTE AND PANOUAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 The traveller in his first visit to the Falls is impressed 
 with a sense of inexpressible amazement. His emotions 
 are not unlike those of the votary of necromancy, who, 
 when once within the magic circle, trembles under the 
 influence of the enchanter, even before he confronts the 
 wizard himself. 
 
 HORSESHOE FALL. 
 
 Who can forget his first view of this grand and stu- 
 pendous spectacle? The roaring is so tremendous that 
 it would seem that if all the lions that have ever lived 
 since the days of Daniel could join their voices in one 
 " Hallelujah" chorus, they would produce but a whisper 
 in comparison to the deep diapasod of this most majes- 
 tic of all Nature's pipes or organs. 
 
 The bridge which connects the mainland with Goat 
 Island is eagerly passed, and we explore the whole of 
 this curious crag, which is rightly named, for it is found 
 fantastic enough to suggest that goats only could find a 
 comfortable footing. The sublimity of the scene in- 
 creases at every step ; but when we come upon the 
 mighty Cataract, we gaze in speechless wonder, and 
 words cannot describe the grandeur of this scene nor 
 the emotion which it excites ; neither can the pencil, 
 any more than the pen, do it justice. The siient and 
 still picture wants the motion and the sound of that 
 stupendous rush of waters. It is impossible to paint the 
 ever-rising column of spray that spires upward from the 
 foaming gulf be'ow, or the prismatic glory that crowns 
 
 i 
 
.^LL-UOU^•D UOUTK AND I'ANOKAMIC (IMDE. 
 
 2'.\ 
 
 it; for there indeed has God forever "set His bow in 
 the cloud, and cold must be the heart that in such a 
 scene remembers not His covenant. 
 
 THE ISLANDS. 
 
 liATH ISLA D, 
 
 Between the mainland and Goat Island, affords a view 
 of the Rapids, the smaller Islands and the brink of the 
 American Fall. 
 
 COAT ISLAND, 
 
 Separaiing the American and the Horsehoe Falls, is the 
 largest Island in the group, and is covered by original 
 forest. If comprises the greatest part of the territory of 
 the Reservation, and on account of its surpassing inter- 
 est ample time should be taken in visiting it. From the 
 Road as you pass to the Island, and to the right, a 
 carriage-way and footpath lead to Stedman's Bluff, a 
 point overlooking the American Fall and the River 
 Gorge ; a stairway and bridge connect Stedman's Bluff 
 and Luna Island dit the brink of the American Fall. 
 
 Luna Island is beautifully placed just in the very curve 
 of the American Falls. This island, as it appears in its 
 summer as well as its winter dress, is graphically de- 
 scribed in " Picturesque America," from which we quote 
 as follows: " It is pleasant enough in summer, for it has 
 evergreens, trees and bushes, grasses and wild flowers 
 in abundance, the atmosphere of spray by which it is 
 
?4 ALL-ROUND KOUTK AND I'ANOIJAMIC (JI'IDK. 
 
 surrounded being apparently favorable to vegetation. 
 At night time, when there is a moon, a fine lunar bow 
 is visible from the bridge that connects it with Goat 
 Island, and hence its name. But the great glory of 
 Luna Island is in the winter, when all the vegetation is 
 encrusted with frozen spray. The grasses are no longer 
 massed in tufts, but each particular blade is sheathed in 
 a scabbard of diamonds, and flashes radiance at every 
 motion of the wind. Every tree, according to its foliage, 
 receives the frozen masses differently ; in some, especi- 
 ally evergreens, with pinnatified leaves, each separate 
 needle is covered with a fine coating of dazzling white. 
 In others, where the boughs and branches are bare, the 
 spray lodges upon the twigs and gives to th^ eye cubes 
 of ice that greatly resemble the uncouth joints of the 
 cactus. In some evergreens the spray be ing rejected 
 by the oleaginous particles forms in apple -like balls at 
 the extremities of the twigs and the nooks of the 
 bn.nches. Those close 1o the verge of the fall are loaded 
 so completely with dazzling heaps of collected frozen 
 spray that the branches often -ivc way, and tlie whole 
 glittering heap comes ilash ng down in crumbh"t.g ruin. 
 On the ground the spray falls in granulated circular 
 drops of opaque white ; but, wherever there is a stone 
 or boulder, ice is massed about in a thousand varying 
 shapes. Let us peep down from the verge, and. regard- 
 less of the smoke of the waterfall, give our attention 
 solely to the ice. It stretches in great columns from the 
 top to the bottom of the falls, and a colonnade is formed, 
 such as one reads of in the fantastic stories of the East,' 
 where alabaster and marble, jade and porphyry are 
 
L'lItK. 
 
 vegetation. 
 le lunar bow- 
 it with Goat 
 at fjlory of 
 vegetation is 
 re no longer 
 sheathed in 
 :e at every 
 o its foh'agei 
 )mc, especi- 
 ch separate 
 zling white, 
 re bare, the 
 • eye cubes 
 aints of the 
 ng rejected 
 ke balls at 
 >ks of the 
 
 are loaded 
 :ted frozen 
 
 the whole 
 bli:.g ruin. 
 :d circular 
 
 is a stone 
 id varying 
 id. regard- 
 ■ attention 
 s from the 
 is formed, 
 
 the East, 
 )hyry are 
 
 Ar,l,-ltOi;N'I» R01.TTK AND I'ANOKAMrC GCIDK. 
 
 25 
 
 carried to the skies in the tremendous palaces of pre- 
 Adamite kings. The frozen spray descending upon 
 these covers them with a delicate tracery of flowers and 
 ferns, and even of resemblance to human heads, which 
 is a beautiful and strange sisiht. 
 
 " In winter time we may not descend on the Ameri- 
 can side ; but if we might, surely we should discern the 
 most wondrous ice configurations along the verge of the 
 pathway. The descent can be made at this time under 
 the Table Rock ; and the visitor passes from the stair- 
 way into a defile of the kind that Dante dreamed of in 
 his frozen Bolgia. Along *he side of the rock walls are 
 rows of sta'actites, about the size of the human body, to 
 which all of them bear a quaint resemblance. Upon the 
 other side, massed along the verge of the bank, are ice 
 heaps that mount up fifty feet into the troubled air, some 
 of them partially columnar in shape, but the majority 
 looking like coils of enormous serpents that have been 
 changed by the rod of the enchanter into sullen ice. 
 
 "It must be remembered that if winter gives much, 
 it also takes away much. Tf it covers the trees and the 
 grass with diamonds, and heaps up ice serpents, and 
 builds colonnades and spires and obelisks, it takes away 
 a great part of tiie volume of the water, for the thousand 
 rills that feed the great lakes have been rent from the 
 hills by the fierce hand of the frost giant, and clank 
 around his waist as a girdle. Those who love color and 
 light and majesty of sound will do well to come in the 
 summer; those who like the strange, the fantastic, and 
 the fearful must come in the winter. But the true lover 
 
 n 
 
26 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 of the picturesque in nature will come at both times. 
 Each has its special charms ; each has something which 
 the other lacks, but in both are pictures of transcendent 
 beauty." 
 
 THE CA\E OF THE WINDS 
 
 Is under the Central Fall, between Goat Island and 
 Luna island. It is reached by descending the Biddle 
 Stairs, on the face of the Cliff, between the American 
 and the Horseshoe Falls. A suitable building has been 
 erected for the accommodation of those who wish to 
 perform the feat of passing under the Falls. Oilskin 
 dresses, clean and dry, are supplied, and for a small fee 
 an experienced guide will accompany parties under the 
 great sheet of water, and describe fully the locality, not 
 forgetting the incidents connected with i\ The scene 
 within the Cave is one of inconceivable grandeur. Con- 
 versation is impossible, the mighty cavern asserting its 
 right to be alone heard, as its thunders reverberat'e in 
 every direction. 
 
 Visitors to the Cave pass behind the Central Fall, and 
 returning upon the bridge in front obtain the nearest 
 view of the American Fall. 
 
 On the bank above, the path follows the edge of the 
 Cliff to Porter's Bluff overlooking the Horseshoe Fall, 
 the Canadian Rapids and the Gorge below the Falls.' 
 From the Bluff a stairway and bridge lead to Terrapin 
 Rock, a point upon the brink of the Horseshoe Falls, 
 affording the best general view of the Falls from the 
 Islands. 
 
DE. 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROTTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 27 
 
 •0th times, 
 ling which 
 nscendent 
 
 sland and 
 :he Biddle 
 American 
 ; has been 
 o wish to 
 Oilskin 
 small fee 
 under the 
 :ality, not 
 rhc scene 
 xr. Con- 
 serting its 
 berate in 
 
 Fail, and 
 e nearest 
 
 ge of the 
 hoe Fall, 
 he Falls. 
 Terrapin 
 oe Falls, 
 from the 
 
 f 
 
 From Porter's Bluff the carriage road and walk over- 
 looking the Canadian Rapids lead to 
 
 THE THREE SISTER ISLANDS. 
 
 Three small islands lying side by side near the head 
 of Goat Island, connected with Goat Island and with one 
 another by bridges spanning small cascades. 
 
 These Islands afford the best views of the Canadian 
 Rapids. The cascade extends from the head of the third 
 and the most remote of them to the Canadian shore. 
 This latter is the Island from which Mr. Joel R. Rob- 
 inson rescued a Mr. Allen in the summer of 1841. Mr., 
 Allen, having started just before sun-down for Chippawa 
 (a village three miles up the river on the Canada side), 
 had the misfortune to break one of his oars in the midst 
 of the river. The current caught his boat and bore it 
 rapidly towards the Falls. As his only hope of safety, 
 he steered with the remaining oar for the head of 
 Goat Island, but failing to strike that he was bearing 
 swiftly past this little Island, when, knowing that the 
 alternative was certain doom, he sprang for the land, and 
 reached it with but little injury. Having matches in his 
 pocket, he struck a signal light at the head of this island, , 
 but it was not seen until morning. Mr. R')binson res- 
 cued him by means of a boat and cable. 
 
 The first of the sisterhood, or the island nearest you, 
 is called Moss Island. That feathery show of a cataract 
 betweer yourself and Moss Island is called the Hermit's. 
 Cascade, from its having been the usual bathing place 
 of PVancis Abbot, the Hermit of Niagara. 
 
! i 
 
 ill! 
 
 28 ALL-UOUXn ItOiU'K AM) l-ANOItAMIO GLID;. 
 
 i 
 '4 
 
 «i"!N(i rN!ill;-||iK 
 
 ' AVli (ir THE \VJJ>, 
 
Di':. 
 
 AI.I.-lioL'NL) lidUTK ANM) I'ANuliAMlC GUIDI':. 
 
 THE IILRMIT 01' THE FAM.S. 
 
 Si* 
 
 m 
 
 As we think it will be interesting, we shall relate the 
 story of this strange persoii. Many years ago, in the glow, 
 of early summer, a young stranger of pleasing counten- 
 ance and person made his appearance at Niagara. It was 
 at first conjectured that he was an artist, a large port- 
 folio, with books and musical instruments, beinc amonc 
 his baggage. He was deeply impressed with the majesty 
 and sublimity of the Calareict and the surrounding 
 scenery, and expressed an intention to remain a week, 
 that he might survey them at his leisure. But the fas. 
 cination which all minds ol sensibility feel when in the 
 presence of that glorious work of the Creator grew 
 strongly upon him, and he was luard to say that six 
 weeks were insufficient to become acquainted with its 
 beauties. At the tnd of that period he was siill unable 
 to tear himself away, and desired to " build there a taber- 
 nacle," that he might indulge in his love of solitary 
 musing, and admire at leisure the sublimits of Nature. 
 He applied for a spot on the Three Sister Islands, on 
 which to erect a cottage after a model of his own, one 
 of the peculiarities of which was a drawbridge to ensure 
 isolation. Circumstances forbidding compliance with 
 this request, he took up residence in an old house on 
 Iris Island, which he rendered as comfortable as the 
 state of the case would admit. Here he remained about 
 eighteen months, when the intrusion of a family in- 
 terrupted his habits of seclusion and meditation. He 
 then quietly withdrew, and reared for himself a less 
 commodious habitation near Prospect Point. Whea 
 
30 
 
 A.LL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC CxUIDE 
 
 winter came, a cheerful fire of wood blazed upon the 
 hearth, and he beguiled the long hours of evening with 
 reading and music. It was strange to hear in such soli- 
 tude the long-drawn, thrilling notes of the violin or the 
 softer melody of the flute, gushing forth from that low- 
 browed hut ; or the guitar breathing out so lightly amid 
 the rush and thunder of the never-slumbering torrent. 
 Though the world of letters was familiar to his mind, and 
 the living world to his observation— for he had tra\4lled 
 widely both in his native Europe and the East— he 
 sought not association with mankind to unfold or to in- 
 crease his store of knowledge. Those who had occa- 
 sionally conversed with him spoke with equal surprise 
 and admiration of his colloquial powers, his command 
 of language, and his fervid eloquence ; but hv seldom 
 and sparingly admitted this intercourse, studiously avoid- 
 ing society, though there seemed in his nature nothing 
 of misanthropy or moroseness ; on the contrary, he 
 : showed kindness to even the humblest animal. Birds 
 instinctively learned this amiable trait in his character, 
 and freely entered his dwelling, to receive from his 
 hands crumbs or seeds. 
 
 But the absorbing delight of his solitary residence 
 was communion with Niagara. Here he might be seen 
 at every hour of the day or night, a fervent worshipper. 
 At the gray dawn he went to visit it in the veil of mist ; 
 at noon, he banqueted in the full splendor of its glory '; 
 beneath the soft tinting of the lunar bow he lingered,' 
 looking for the angel whose pencil had painted it^ and 
 at solemn midnight he knelt at the same shrine. ' Nei- 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE A.ND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 31 
 
 ther the storms of autumn nor the piercing cold of winter 
 prevented his visit to the temple of his adoration. There 
 was at this time an extension of the Terrapin Bridge, by 
 a single beam of timber carried out ten feet over the 
 fathomless abyss, where it hung tremulously, guarded 
 only by a rude parapet. Along this beam he often 
 passed and re-passed in the darkness of night. He even 
 took pleasure in grasping it with his hands, and thus 
 suspending himself over the awful gulf, so much had 
 his morbid enthusiasm taught him to revel amid the 
 terribly sublime. Among his favorite gratifications was 
 that of bathing, in which he indulged daily. 
 
 On a bright but rather chilly day in the month of 
 June, a man employed about the ferry saw him go into 
 the water, and for a long time after observed his clothes 
 to be still lying upon the bank. The poor hermit had 
 taken his last bath. It was supposed that cramps might 
 have been induced by the chill of the atmosphere or 
 the water. Still, the body was not found, the depth and 
 current below being exceedingly great. In the course 
 of their search they passed on to the Whirlpool. There, 
 amid those boiling eddies, was the body, making fear- 
 ful and rapid gyrations upon the face of the black waters. 
 At some point of suction it suddenly plunged and dis- 
 appeared. Again emerging, it was fearful to see it leap 
 half its length above the flood, then float motionless ex- 
 hausted, and anon spring upwards, and seem to struggle 
 like a maniac battling with a mortal foe. For days and 
 nights this terrible scene was prolonged. It was not un- 
 til the 2 1st of June that after many efi"orts they were 
 
I • 
 
 32 
 
 Al.L-HOUND KOUTK AND PAXOltAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 able to recover the body and bear it to his desolate cot- 
 tage. There they found his faithful dog guarding the 
 door. Heavily had the long period worn away wliile he 
 v.atched for his only friend, and wondered why he de- 
 layed his coming. He scrutinized the approaching group 
 suspiciously, and would not willingly have given them, 
 admittance. A stifled wail at length showed his intui. 
 tive knowledge of his master, whom the work of death 
 had effectually disguised from the eyes of man. On 
 the pillow was his pet kitten, and in "ifferent parts of the 
 room were his guitar, flute, violin, portfolio and books 
 scattered, the books open as if recently used. It was a 
 touching sight: the hermit mourned by his humble re- 
 tainers, the poor animals that loved him, and the body 
 ready to be laid by strange hands in a foreign grave. 
 
 The motives that led this singular and accomplished 
 being, learned in the languages, in the arts and science, 
 improved by extensive travel, and gifted with personal 
 beauty and a feeling heart, to seclude himself in the 
 flower of youih from human society are still enveloped 
 in mystery. . All that is known is that his name was 
 Francis Abbott, that he was a native of England, where 
 his father was a clergyman, and that he received from 
 thence ample remittance for his comfort. These facts 
 had been previously ascertained, but no written papers 
 were found in his cell to throw additional light upon 
 the obscurity in which he has so effectually wrapped 
 the history of his pilgrimage. 
 
ALL-HOUND UOUTK AND PANORAMIC GUEDK. 
 
 33 
 
 THE THREE SISTER BRIDGES. 
 
 These costly and substantial structures are built over 
 the three channels which separate the Three Sisters 
 from each other and from Goat Island, presenting new 
 grand views of the Rapids and Falls, unequalled from 
 any other point. These three bridges combine strength 
 and beauty. They are alike, being slightly convex, 
 that is, higher in the middle than at either end, thus, 
 adding to their strength. 
 
 Their ends are fastened into the solid rock. Two 
 rods two inches in diameter pass under each bridge, 
 and are also fastened into the rocks at either end. The 
 peculiar construction of the railing adds much to their 
 strength and beauty. A fourth island, or sister, was 
 discovered while the bridges were being built ; to it 
 a bridge has also been thrown. From the head of 
 the third sister may be seen one continuous Cascade or 
 Fall, extending as far as the eye can reach, from Goat 
 Island across to the Canadian shore, varying from ten 
 to twenty feet in height. From this miniature Niagara 
 rises a spray similar to that of the great Falls. The 
 Rapids here <iescend fifty-five feet in three-quarters of 
 a mile, and they are one of the prominent features of 
 Niagara. 
 
 Viewed from the Bridge they look like " a battle- 
 charge of tempestuous waves, animated and infuriated, 
 against the sky." 
 
 For ages before Hennepin's visit opened up this su- 
 blime manifestation of nature to civilized man, and for 
 
 
 
Ill 
 
 p 
 
 I 'I 
 
 W I 
 
 34 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND rANOKAMIC GUIDK. 
 
 more than two centuries since, the mighty river has con- 
 tinued to flow in " floods so grand and inexhaustible" 
 as to be utterly unconscious of the loss of the hundred 
 millions of tons which they pour every hour over the 
 stupendous precipice. 
 
 "Still do these waters roll, and leap, and roar, and 
 
 tumble all day long ; still are the rainbows spanning 
 ^^ them a hundred feet below. Still, when the sun is on 
 
 them, do they shine and glow like molten gold. Still, 
 ^^'when the day is gloomy, do they fall like snow or 
 ^^seem to crumble away like the front of a great chalk 
 
 chfr. or roll down, the rock like dense, white smoke. 
 ^^ i:iut always does the mighty stream appear to die as it 
 
 comes down, and always from the unfathomable o-rave 
 II arises that tremendous ghost of spray and mist which is 
 ^ never laid, which has haunted this place with the same 
 
 dread solemnity since darkness brooded on the deep, 
 ' and that f^rst flood before the deluge-Light-came 
 '' rushing on creation at the Word of God." 
 
 From the Three Sister Islands, the carriage road and 
 walk continue to the head of Goat Island, where the 
 water divides, one portion going over the American Fall, 
 and the other over the Horseshoe Falls. 
 
 From this parting of the waters a view of the upper 
 Niagara River is obtained, including both banks of the 
 stream and the islands around. 
 
 From the head of Goat Island, the road and walk 
 follow the margin, completing the circuit of the Island 
 at the point of entrance, from which there is a midway 
 
 
ALL-liOUND UOUTE \NI) rANORAMIU GUIDE. • .3"» 
 
 road to the Canadian Rapids, and a footpath tlirough 
 the woods to the Horseshoe Fall, and another foot-path 
 to the Three Sister Islands, 
 
 POINTS OF VIEW Ox\ THE RHER ROAD. 
 
 Ox THE MAIXLAXD, the River Road, commanding 
 views of the Rapids, the Island, and the Canadian shore, 
 extends up the stream along the river bank to the Old 
 French Landing, at the eastern boundary of the Reserv- 
 ation. 
 
 From this road many historical points on the Xiagara 
 frontier are visible. .At the mouth of the Cayuga Creek, 
 five miles above the Falls on the American side, Rober' 
 Cavelier de La Salle, in 1679, built and launched the 
 "Griffon," the first vessel that sailed the upper lakes 
 Further down at the Old French Landing, within the 
 Reservation, La Salle and the Missionary, Louis Henne- 
 pin, embarked after the portage of their canoe from 
 Lewiston, a point on the river seven miles below the 
 Falls. The landing place was used by the early French 
 and British traders, and before their coming by the 
 Indians of the Neutral Nation and their successors, the 
 Senecas. The wooded shores of Navy and Buckhorn 
 Islands are visible, noted for occurrences in the French 
 and British wars. About a mile above the Falls is the 
 site of the French Fort du Portage, destroyed by Jon- 
 caire before his retreat in 1759. The chimney of the 
 barracks, built in 1750, is yet standing, and the outlines 
 of Fort Schlosser, built by the British in 1761, are 
 visible. December 29th, 1837, during the "Patriot 
 
 '{ 
 
36 
 
 AI.1.-R0UXD EOUTK AM, rAM,|,A>,„; auiUK. 
 
 Kebdl.on the st.amcr "Caroline" was seized at 
 Schiosser Landing, about two n.ilcs above the Ll 
 owed out ,„to the tive,-. set on fite, and allowed -oci ft 
 uth the eurrent over the l-alls, Inuther down upon 
 he nver bank, within ,he Re.serva.ion, where the b u V 
 
 e.ectcd by De Pej-ste,-, a Kritish officer, in ,767 a,d 
 used ,n preparing tin.ber for stoekades along the ri^ 
 
 W nl'^' tf"r •"*-'"" =''^'^ °'"'^ Stedn,a„ ■ 
 
 tir::;e;;;;;:;;:/r^'-""-°f''-'^'"'<--tedon 
 
 THE NKW SUSI'EXSIOX liRIDGE, 
 
 One-eighth of a mile below the American Fall w.s 
 e..cted ,n .869. The towers on the Canadian ^de 
 120 feet h.gh, and on the American side io6 feet hi^^h 
 The span is 1,230 feet from tower to tower. The height 
 from the water to the floor of the bridge is 256 fee 
 
 s de for foot passengers. The bridge has at each side a 
 strong radmgfive feet high. The estimated strength 
 of structure ,s over 150 tons^and as 10 or 15 tons is a 
 that could well be placed on the bridge at one t me by 
 
IDK, 
 
 seized at 
 tlic Falls, 
 k'ecl 'o drift 
 own upon 
 - the bluff 
 '■ saw mill 
 W67, ar.d 
 tile river, 
 'man and 
 rectcd on 
 
 ALL-HOUND ROU'IK AND I'ANitRAMIC GUIDi;. 
 
 37 
 
 'all, was 
 side are 
 :et high, 
 e height 
 256 feet. 
 ■ at one 
 :h side a 
 strength 
 ns is all 
 i:ime by- 
 
 its ordinary traffic, its stability was fora time considered 
 l)roblcmaticaI. It has, however, passed through twenty- 
 five winters with its load of ice and frozen spra\' so that 
 long since full confidence has been established. 
 
 It stands a great, lasting monument to J. T. Bush, 
 who conceived the project, and carried it to a successful 
 termination. The view from the center of it is exceed- 
 ingly fme ; suspended in mid-air and full view of both 
 the American and Horseshoe Falls, with the river above 
 and below, and its beautiful banks from 150 to 250 feet 
 perpendicular, a scene of unsurpassed beauty and rrran- 
 deur IS spread before the beliolder. 
 
 THE RAILWAY SUSI'EN'SIO.N IJKIDCK 
 
 Spans the river two miles below the Falls, and is 
 admitted by all to be a wonderful triumph of engineerino- 
 skill. Mr. Roebling, of Trenton, New Jersey, was the 
 engineer of this bridge, which, as the name implies, is 
 constructed on the suspension system. The two towers 
 supporting the entire structure, which is in one span of 
 825 ft., are about 70 feet high, and built on and into 
 the solid rock, the height from rail to water being 258 
 ft ; the bridge is supported by four cables, each com- 
 posed of 8,000 wires, and measuring gj4 inches in dia- 
 meter, aggregate length of wire employed being more 
 than 4,000 miles, wliilst the entire weight of the bridge 
 is 12,400 tons. Its cost was half a million dollars. It 
 is constructed for the joint purposes of road and pedes- 
 trian traffic, and for the Great Western Railway of 
 Canada, now part of the Grand Trunk Railway system. 
 A stone's throw from the Suspension Bridge is the 
 
38 
 
 ALI.-U.^UNl) KOUTK AXn PANORAMIO .;uiDK. 
 CANTILEVER BRIDGE 
 
 owned by the Michfgan Central Railu-ay. It is inter 
 csting from an engineering standpoint, as being one of 
 the first bridges of tl.is description ever erected U'ork 
 v.as commenced on it April isth. 1883. and the whole 
 structure was completed the December follouing. The 
 totalcngth of the bridge is nine hundred and ^en feet 
 andhcghtofrail above water two hundred and forty- 
 five^feet. A short drive on the American side bn^s 
 
 ■VHIRLPOOL RAPIDS, 
 
 Which leap along exiilthigly i,„ti| they are arrested 
 about one hundred rods belou- the Railway Suspension 
 ndge b„„e Uhirlpool, one of the finest and n,o t i C 
 est,n.cj spots about Niagara Falls, This delightful spot 
 ,s v,s,ted by many thousands of people annually. ' i 
 a ,nag„,ficent sight. ,|,e river here, urns abruptly to 
 he r,ght formM,g an elbow; in its rage it see.ns t , 1 ave 
 thrown .self against the lofty rock, which for,,, the 
 gorge, as .determined to find a new outlet, and ro.,„d 
 and round ,„ that awful mac's.ro.n the current has 
 
 the bank; and ..s the waters rush against the opposite 
 banks, a wh.rlpool is formed, on which logs, and ofte,' 
 dob.es, have been known to float n.any days. 
 
 There is no perpendicular fall, or external outlet at 
 he wh,rlpo<^ The distance across it is one thous ,k 
 feet , perpend.cularheight of the ban! ,. 350 feet. Here 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND I'ANOUAMIO OUIDK. 
 
 39 
 
 It is 
 
 inter- 
 
 eirig 
 
 one of 
 
 cd. 
 
 Work- 
 
 the 
 
 whole 
 
 ving. 
 
 The 
 
 id te 
 
 1 feet, 
 
 and 
 
 forty- 
 
 e brings us 
 
 bursts upon the view one of the most beautiful and 
 sublime sights in the world. Thri)ugh a narrow gorge, 
 rush, in their tumultuous and maddening course, all the 
 waters of the Great Upper Lakes. The immense under- 
 current forces the water in the centre thirty or forty feet 
 higher than at the edges. 
 
 The ever-varying changes the waters constantly un- 
 dergo are indescribably beautiful and fascinating. One 
 is never tired of gazing at this wondrous scene. The 
 rocky banks of the river plainly showing the different 
 strata exhibit the wonderful processes of nature. From 
 this point the finest view of the Railway Suspension 
 Bridge can be obtained. To look at this beautiful 
 structure from the water's edge, at this point, one could 
 almost believe the fairies built it. It was near this spot 
 that Blondin crossed inc gorge on a rope, with a man 
 on his back. 
 
 ■MAID OF THE MIST." 
 
 No visit to " The Falls " is complete that does not in- 
 clude a trip on " The Maid of the Mist." She is quite 
 an "institution," and there have been several of the name 
 engaged successively in conveying tourists up to the 
 spray of the cataract. The trip is perfecUy safe, and 
 no accident has ever occurred to steamer or passenger. 
 The starting point was until recently from the Canadian 
 side, but now two vessels, bearing that name, perform the 
 trip from both sides of the river, and can be reached by 
 the Incline Ry. A view of both falls of unequalled 
 grandeur is obtained in this, way, and the visitor who 
 
 5|.! 
 
40 
 
 ALL-BOUND ROUTE AND rANOIlAMIC GUIDK. 
 
 IT.' u'l '"!,^PP°''""==' '•" 'he height of the Falls from 
 the banks w,ll realize their magnitude perfectly. ~he 
 farefor the round trip is only 50c. 
 
 It is now a matter of history how this tiny steamer 
 wh,ch conveyed tourists under the spray of the cTeTi 
 Hor^shoe Fall, successfully escaped 'he'hands of h 
 sheriff, by passmg through the whirlpool. 
 
 the old Suspension Bridge, June ,;, .86,, and spran, 
 boldly out mto the river, to try one of the most perilous 
 voyages ever made. She shot forward like an a^ro w o 
 I.ght, bowed gracefully to the multitude on the Brile ' 
 and w,th the velocity of lightning passed on her course 
 Many beheld this hazardous adventure, expect ."evry 
 .nstant she would bedashed topieces, and iisapp^Jf:^ 
 ever. Amazement thrilled every heart, and it appeared 
 as .f no power could save her. -. There ! there I "Zstll 
 uppressed e..ciamation .hat escaped the lips o all 
 She careens over ; she is fe/.'she is &«/" But 
 gu.ded by an eye that dimmed not and a hand thlt 
 never trembled, she was piloted through those m ddened 
 waters by the intrepid Robinson, in perfect safety and 
 
 She is the only craft, so far as is known, that ever made 
 th,s fearful tnp, and lived. Though the pilot had per! 
 
ALL-ROUXD ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 41 
 
 formed many hazardous exploits in saving the lives of 
 persons who had fallen into the river, yet this last act in 
 taking the "Maid of the Mist" through the whirlpool is 
 the climax of all his adventures. 
 
 THE DEVIL'S HOLE 
 
 Is a large triangular chasm in the bank of the river, on 
 American side, three and a half miles below the Falls. 
 The Bloody I ui, a ravine so call from a sanguinary en- 
 gagement between two hostile Indian tribes, falls into 
 this chasm. 
 
 1,; 
 
 m 
 
 (alii 
 
 THE CANADIAN SIDE OF THE FALLS. 
 
 A few years ago the Canadian shore of the Niagara 
 River, along the greater part of that grand natural curve 
 that affords the grandest view of the grandest scene on 
 eartli, b.ad been almost robbed of its natural beauty by 
 the settlers in the vicinity. Here was to be seen a grist 
 mill, there a saw mill, here a most unpicturesque-looking 
 second class hotel, here again a cheap restaurant, and 
 every here and there an ugly wooden residence all more 
 or less out of repair from constant exposure to Niagara's 
 summer spray and winter icicles. We have changed all 
 that now. The mills arc gone, the restaurant is abol- 
 ished, the hotel is wiped out, and in place thereof we 
 have a long two-mile-and-a-half stretch of green turf 
 and gravelled walks and drives, bordered on the west 
 by the turbulent waters of the Niagara, and on the east 
 by the towering cliff which forms a fitting background 
 to the majestic scenes it overtops. This long stretch of 
 
42 
 
 ALL-ROUND .OUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDK. 
 
 or the ri.: m ' ce:rtr b "":'"^" ^^°""' ^^^ ^^"^ 
 throw of the prett;vLe,;Ch" ^^"^^^ -^--'^ 
 cial Park, whfch ^Zf I ^^'P^''''^' '^ the Provin- 
 nnrl Ir '^ °"t during the vear rS^?- qq 
 
 3»d on Mav 24th rS9Q '^ •^^'^ r«67-S8, 
 
 "WHEN VICTORUNUGARA FALLS PARK" 
 
 bea„.r. ^.■.Hc"oXXi:r:;''T.e:r' "-■^ 
 
 ■■•pretty piece of rustic architecture tndtf""" 
 S'derable dimensions. It 1, builV V f °' "" '"^o"- 
 SKle„.a„s being each Inlaid v'",™:'',^."'?^^^' "« 
 amis, in cedar also At *r rowncial coat-of- 
 
 «.ereareplaced1:;istel,'tr:::---heo.:her, 
 
 •T^ontubt:^:: I*;^-;;-;;. "- visitor finds hi„,se,f 
 "liich winds ea i 1 ^"'^•''S'"'='" f«'"> "idth 
 distance otTr ^77^' """"^^ "^ P-'^ at a 
 comes to a ju' c'^^io,' f. ff u" '"' "'" ^^'"'' "■" '' 
 museum garde He "^'°" ™<' "' fr™' °f 'he old 
 leads from the 'vesfer,; f '°""'' "'™ "^^ ^ "^'^ ""ich 
 the " Murray „re r""' °' ""^ P"''' '<"'>-" as 
 
 tranceJnhe' o'at """"^\'"^-" f~m .hen.ain en- 
 the ,Uo„atG„teway_rather over halfamile 
 
DE. 
 
 a hundred 
 d the bend 
 - a stone's 
 le Provin- 
 ■ i88y.S8, 
 he piibh'c 
 ive title of 
 
 :K," 
 
 euphony, 
 
 hern ex- 
 at Gate- 
 in ed this 
 ■teway is 
 ) i neon- 
 da r, the 
 coat-of- 
 2 othei-, 
 
 himself 
 I width, 
 rk at a 
 :, till it 
 he old 
 which 
 )wn as 
 in en- 
 . mile. 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE ANb PANORAMIC GUIDE. 43 
 
 On either side of the carriage- way, separated from it by 
 a narrow margin of sod, runs a finely-gravelled pathway, 
 four feet wide, for pedestrians. Here and there during 
 the course of the winding avenue, and always opposite 
 the points of chief interest, run side-paths or turn-outs 
 which lead to the edge of the cliff, and enable visitors to 
 approach without risk — for a strong rustic cedar fence 
 has been erected all along the brink of the shore — to 
 within a few feet of Niagara's waters, and so drink in at 
 their ease, free from the annoyances of dusty roadways 
 and inii)ortunate cabmen, the unparalleled beauty of the 
 '. . s that surround them. At the point in front of 
 ■[".''.hie Rock house, where many thousands of the fair and 
 the brave annually encase themselves in ugly oilskins, 
 that they may experience the sensations produced by a 
 trip beneath the famous "?Iieet of water," and where 
 hitherto to do so they ha^ e had to make the toilsome 
 descent and ascent of the circular wooden stairway used 
 for that purpose, a very great improvement has been 
 made. The old snethod was a most uncomfortable and 
 inconvenient means of securing the desired sensation ; 
 and to avoid it, a powerful hydraulic vertical lift has been 
 erected a little distance north of Table Rock house, and 
 at a point where the cliff is nearly vertical instead of 
 overhanging. The lift is sufficiently large to accommo- 
 date ten or twelve persons, ami makes its drop of ninety 
 feet in about 45 seconds. The car runs in an open iron 
 tower of great strength and stability. The wate rrc- 
 quired to work the lift is brought in large pipes from the 
 river above the Falls, a distance of some foui hundred 
 feet. These pipes are laid in a channel blastei out of 
 
44 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDI, 
 
 the compact limestone rock nnH r^. j 
 
 and expensive nartZn At' , ""^"^ ^ ""''y ^^^'^^^ 
 
 makin,^ o ^e'p j ''',Tf — P'-shed in the 
 
 ^^the.;;enio;d^';.o:rr:^-;-:,:xr-^ 
 
 -^terestis ,,reatly intensified, and the t ," b " ''' 
 cage to the pathway uner The 7" '"'° '^^' °P^" 
 
 both of them before lor,. ,tt H J f °""'' 
 u.der the old rjglme it «.£ . d ' '''™'"'"^'-=d 'h^t 
 
 •^ijc rails and nver scenery. 
 
 Isiaildart^rolp o;B'ff"-'''T^ '"■"^" ■•"''""- ^edar 
 Of mainland,! no. tfuJr'f T' '"' "'""■"- ^'"P 
 
 -e ad^i... of°;;r;Lfr;tJ:t^:^f,:- 
 
H 
 
 DE. 
 
 fy tedious 
 led in the 
 spectacle 
 ■1 trip, its 
 comes an 
 > the visi- 
 the open 
 ch'ffs, by 
 s. This 
 atbuild- 
 ) be Mr. 
 f the old 
 5 of the 
 >y those 
 nuseum 
 of fact 
 i and it 
 one or 
 ?d that 
 ' under 
 santer 
 cents. 
 Dinted 
 o visi- 
 :ludes 
 
 redar 
 strip 
 e for 
 lal— 
 
 ALL-ROUKIJ ROUTE AND I'ANOKAMIG GUIDE. 45- 
 
 
 
46 
 
 ALL-KOUND ROUTE AND TANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 H 
 
 onl>- ten cents eacli, while a carnage full of people passes 
 the gate for fifty cents, and rolls into a perfect pa' 
 o beauty. Entering this division of the park from that 
 which we have already traversed, and crossing a sub- 
 stantial .on bridge, we come upon Cedar Isl^nd-so 
 named from the abundance of trees of that order found 
 upon ,t The island has been neatly laid out with walks 
 and well planted with a variety of trees and shrubs 
 Cedar predominates, that being native to the soil, but' 
 the beautiful catalpa, the odorous magnolia, and other 
 specimens of less familiar trees have been introduced and 
 are added to the natural beauty of the spot. Leavin' 
 Cedar Island by another bridge, we have reached the 
 beaut^u Dufferin Islands. But the visitor cannot cros 
 th.s bndge without haWng his attention arrested and 
 his admiration excited by the view to his right A hun 
 dred yards or thereabouts farther down, the river is 
 again crossed by a pretty foot suspension bridge One 
 end rests upon the Dufiferin Islands and the other makes 
 a junction with a beautiful valley that runs around the 
 base of Clark-hill, which could hardly be excelled in 
 fairyland itself. A rustic cedar rail protects the outer 
 side, and through th. whole of its length it is overhung 
 by cedars and willows, hanging low as though to kiss 
 
 "by "^'"^ '"' "^^' ''''' '"^^^^ ^' '^^y -- 
 
 Coming back again to the main bridge-on which we 
 have lingered so long-we cross to the islands. Here 
 we have a succession of exquisite sylvan scenes, of which 
 we can mention but one or two. Chief among them 
 
 ■-"'tjl^?^!^^'' 
 
JE. 
 
 >le passes 
 : paradise 
 from that 
 ig a sub- 
 land— so 
 er found 
 th walks, 
 
 shrubs, 
 soil, but 
 id other 
 ced and 
 Leaving- 
 hod the 
 ot cross 
 'ed and 
 Ahun- 
 I'iver is 
 . One 
 makes 
 nd the 
 led in 
 
 outer 
 rhung 
 :o kiss 
 :ourse 
 
 :h we 
 Here 
 vhkh 
 them 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 47 
 
 Stands "The Lover's Walk," a beautiful promenade which 
 extends for a considerable distance around the great 
 band of the Dufferin Islands, and which rests upon crib- 
 work designed as a protection against the erosive action 
 of the swift current. The cribwork has been fully pack- 
 ed with large stones, and a firm fenced walk erected 
 over them. The town has been left far behind in the 
 rear,— it might be many miles for anything seen or heard 
 of it. In the midst of the thick woods of the islands 
 the only sound that breaks the stillness are the roar of 
 the distant cataract, the swift coursing of the river hard 
 by, and the trickling everywhere of water over the crib- 
 work. 
 
 "And the winds and the waters, 
 
 In perpetual measure, 
 Go winding around ns, 
 
 With roll upon roll ; 
 Till the soul lies within 
 
 In a circle of pleasure 
 Which hideth the soul."' 
 
 A little way from the main group of these islands lies 
 a pretty islet which has been named " The Lovers' Re- 
 treat," which has an excellent walk with an arbor at the 
 end of it. There are numerous other points of beauty 
 in and about the islands, which will present themselves 
 to visitors. Driving rapidly through the remainder of 
 the park we come to the soutliern or Dufiferin gateway, 
 being what was in former days the Burning Spring esta- 
 blishment. A Chippewa farmer, several years ago, in 
 digging a well a mile from the spot, tapped the source 
 of supply of the Burning Spring, and so inadvertently 
 
4S 
 
 f i-,ri i 
 
 !! I 
 
 MM 
 
 u 
 
 I 
 
 
 ALL-KOUNl) ]{OLTK AND PANOKAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 provided the Park with an excellent gateway. The P.rk 
 conta.nsin all 154 acres, and upwards of $400,000 have 
 been expended m the expropriation and laying out of it. 
 
 No description of the Falls would be complete with- 
 out reference to the old 
 
 TAB^l:; ROCK 
 
 From which such a grand view of all the Falls was for- 
 merly obtained. It now exists only in name and'in the 
 interest which attaches to its site. It was a truly ma-ni- 
 ficent crag, overhanging the fearful abyss, and it c'^on 
 stituted one of the wonders of the place. It was situated 
 at the angle formed by the Horseshoe Falls and River 
 Bank. Many accidents are recorded, from the temerity 
 of tourists who ventured too near its margin. It how 
 ever, fell in 1863, and had this accident occurred an hour 
 or t.vo earlier in the day, the Victoria Bridge, the Grand 
 Trunk Railway and many other Canadian undertakings 
 might not have been accomplished, for a very short time 
 previous to the disappearance of the slippery c^ranite 
 there was standing upon it. viewing tlie Falls, the distin- 
 guished engineer of those great works, with several of 
 his colleagues. 
 
 WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS 1"AKK-(CANADIAN SIDE). 
 
 _ This attractive resort (always in the shade after noon) 
 IS situated on the Canadian side of the Niagara River 
 Rapids, one minute's walk north of the Railroad Suspen 
 sion Bridge, and is reached hy a double hydraulic gra- 
 
ALL-UOUND ROUTE AND I'ANOIIAMIC GUIDE. 49 
 
 
 III 
 
 OLD TABLE ROOK. 
 
 D 
 
i i 
 
 50 ALL-BOUND KOUIK AND rA»„„.»„c OVWE 
 
 ^-he::r;;cj^:f tr ".r ^^'-'^ ^^"- 
 
 along the ed« of Z ' >. ^' " ''''' '"^"^'^ »'"d 
 feet, across a rustir T"? ^u "'=''«gl>'°f one hundred 
 
 .ifu.' cascS: r^:„ X?;- rctir r"'^^ ^^^"■ 
 
 over two hundred fe;t above hL 71 T "= ^l'"^ 
 point of the rapids a rustic nlatformt t ^"""^^"^ 
 
 ed,projectingfLyfeetr.r't tMesfptrifTh"'™"" 
 affording the most sublime vlev/T ,u"""'- 
 rapids. Beneath thi, nbTf • T """^ wonderful 
 bubbles up with mlht " ^°"''"S ^="- "'"''' 
 
 ^i^^rtiiz:'!::' %""''"' ^^^^^ "'-o-. 'he 
 deurwhichisZ Tn :crar,:'-^r"^*r''''^™'- 
 
 cliffs rise inaneirlvn ^ ?<"• nearly 250 feet, 
 
 and across he gtrge s't S? " ""\ ^'°^' *- 
 Bridge, the passhK, Tr,f f- " "«'">' S^'^pension 
 
 dista^nce. bT^ Td^S th" H ^'*' '''^^*'"S= ''" '"e 
 green formed bv the 1 .^ "'' ^""'^"'"■•k of dark 
 
 ceaselessly.ltrlda ::trtL"r?'Tr™^'^- 
 that ascend totheskv anHf .J ' °f"''"" "»»' 
 
 more grandly b autiM n u""' ""'' "'"'"'"'y a" the 
 
 through the'narr : p Les bea2' T"'' ^"''""^ "" 
 rocks ihat for a<.es hate h ^ ' "'^^ ^'^ai-^t the 
 
 con,es the accuCfatn'oT lar^^''^ -'^ ?°^^' 
 and higher as they flow onward c 1/ T^, '«''" 
 agony for more room tomove, h;;Te1tm he ""^ " 
 by the silent, awful cliffs nJ T- hemmed in 
 
 lulcuifs. Dashmg onward, driven for- 
 
 l'9.S'S!!S.'J'S'.'-.*W3fi.frT'»»- 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 51 
 
 •ward by the never-ending flowing from behind, they 
 reach the mpst contracted part of the channel. Here 
 for a moment it seems ahnost as if the mighty volume 
 paused, unable to struggle further, and then with renew- 
 ed effort, impelled by some all-powerful but invisible 
 force, it dashes up in one great volume of 20 to 30 feet, 
 into the air, and with a noise of thunder bursts through 
 the iron rocks that seek to confine it, and boiling, 
 swirling, bubbling into crystal foam, at last it finds its way 
 into the calm green channel beyond the gorge. When it 
 is remembered that the river at this point is only 300 
 feet wide, that the Falls of Niagara present a front of 
 one and a quarter miles, and that the flow of water over 
 them averages four feet deep, it will be seen that the 
 channel of the Whirlpool Rapids sinks to a depth of at 
 least 200 feet. At no point near the Falls can the visitor 
 obtain so good an idea of the great volumeof water that 
 forces its way through Niagara River, and consequently 
 the Whirlpool Rapids Park is one of the principal points 
 of interest. It should be visited by everyone who o-oes 
 to Niagara Falls. 
 
 Having done justice to the beautie of " the Falls," 
 we shall decide upon the route to be taken for Toronto. 
 There are several means of getting there : one on the 
 American side of the river, by the New York Central 
 R.R., to Lewiston ; another, on the Canadian side by 
 the electric railway, which closely parallels the ^^orge to 
 Queenston ; and by the Michigan Central R.R. to Nia- 
 gara-on-the-Lake. The Niagara Navigation Company 
 makes close connection at all these places, and on a 
 
 Hi 
 
 r 
 
62 ALL-ROUND JJOUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDK. 
 
 sunny, calm day nothing 
 can be more pleasant 
 than the water excursion, 
 by the magnificent side- 
 wheel palace steamers 
 "Chicora and Chippe- 
 wa," or the luxurious 
 "Cibola" which daily 
 make tups eaJi way 
 7^ across Lake Ontario, bet- 
 ween Toronto and Lew- 
 -—^^wfrnm^ .,^.^u, ^u '^'^°"- ^^""om Niagara 
 
 'S^.IP?'^ ■' ' ■^'''"' *° Lewiston the 
 
 • ^fc2j|^ railway follows the course 
 
 the high ndge overlooking the rapid stream, until we 
 ^mve at Lewiston Station. The fourth route is by the 
 -Grand Trunk Railway of Canada. If your tickets read 
 by this hne, take the cars at Suspension Bridge and 
 enjoy a pleasant ride through a lovely c(.untry to St 
 Catharines and Port Dalhousie, making connection at 
 the latter place with the magnificent steamer " Fmpress 
 of Lidia," which makes two trips daily between Toronto 
 and Port Dalhousie in close connection with G T R 
 trains. • a. xv. 
 
 LEWISTON. 
 
 This village is situated at the head of navigation on 
 the lower Niagara, where it is met by the Rome, Water- 
 town & Ogdensburg Railway, as well as the n!y. Cen- 
 tral, and is a place of considerable importance.' It lies 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 53 
 
 three miles below the Devil's Hole and seven miles be- 
 low the Falls. 
 
 It is an exceedingly pleasant and very well built town, 
 but its commercial prospects have been very much in- 
 jured by the construction ofthe Erie and Wclland canals. 
 It contains, besides a pronortionate number of stores and 
 hotels, churches of all .i.c various denominations and an 
 academy of considera ilc .-,ize. In i8i 2, it was the head- 
 quarters of General /a Ren?, elaer, of the New York 
 Militia. 
 
 The Michigan Central Rail wayon the Canadian side, 
 leaves Clifton or Suspension Bridge, where are the Sus- 
 pension and Cantilever bridges and the junction with 
 the Erie R.R. Soon the track, after running alongside 
 the Grand Trunk R.R. for a few miles, dips suddenly 
 under, and, emerging, begins to wind slowly down the 
 mountain side. Far below lie, laid out before the eye, 
 the fertile and well tilled farms of fruit and grain, or- 
 chards and sheep-dotted pasture of the " Garden Dis- 
 trict of Canada ; " above, upon the summit ridge, boldly 
 stands out against the sky Brock's Monument. Having 
 reached the lower level, the train runs tlirough a succes- 
 sion of vineyards and peach groves, and ^ains the river 
 at Niagara-on-the-Lake. 
 
 The Niagara Falls Park and River Electric railway, 
 running from Chippewa, three miles above the Falls 
 fwhere connection is made by steamer with Buffalo) 
 closely follows the course of the river to Queenston. 
 The route is so laid out as to take in all the best views 
 of this interesting trip. From the cais of the company 
 unobstructed views are had of the mighty cataract, the 
 
64 
 
 ALL-IIOUXD IfOUTE AND PATOB4MI0 GUIDE. 
 
 on h .„or cal Queenston heights, the foaming and raain^ 
 whTlpool and the great stretch of quiet waters bj^ond 
 
 QUEENSTON 
 
 Is the terminus of the Niagara Falls Park and River 
 
 abo'm the "" ■";" '™'"*' """"'■ "ft'-nver.and 
 about the same distance f-om the Falls. It is a the 
 
 head of navigation, and .. well adapted to be the 'erltf 
 It ira'^rr*"^""'' ='-"---' -^ .eave lo™; 
 I was the? 'T ""'"'"' '"^^ly °PPO-te Lewiston. 
 It was the Canadian termination of the first Suspension 
 budge, and ,s associated in history with the gal" 
 fence made by the British on .he adjacent heiglts in 
 
 bu tl: '^'^ J'"' "■"'»"' ■•= P'--""y -t-ted 
 but It has suirered from the same causes that have re 
 
 a^ded the growth of Lewiston. Near this point tic 
 
 river becomes more tranquil, the shores appear less 
 
 brokenand wiid and the change in the scenery aflb'ds 
 
 a p^easmg transition from the sublime to the beautll 
 
 The monument which we have referred to stand on 
 
 ts'^nfm'f Th"' ~"^^"'°"' ""■'"" "- ""^ge deriv:d 
 Its name. The present structure occupies the site of the 
 former one, which was blown up by a miscreant narn^ 
 Lett, on the , 7thAp.il, ,840. Thewholeedifice isone 
 hundred and ninety feet high, and is overtopped by not 
 more than two or three monuments anywhere On t "e 
 sub-base, which is forty feet square and thirty 'feeihilr 
 
 theb..eof the pedestal is twenty-one and a half feci 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 55 
 
 square, ten feet high, surmounted with a heavy cornice, 
 ornamented with hon's heads and wreaths in alto relievo.' 
 In ascending from the top of the pedestal to the top of 
 the base of the shaft the form changes from square to 
 round. The shaft is a fluted column of freestone, seven- 
 ty-five feet high and ten feet in diame;..'r, vJhereon 
 stands a Corinthian capital, ten feet high, on which is 
 ^^•rought in relief a statue of the Goddess of War. On 
 this capital is the dome, nine feet high, which is reached 
 by 250 spiral steps from the base on the inside. On 
 the top of the dome is placed a colossal statue of General 
 Brock. Standing on the gallery supporting this, there 
 is unrolled to view a matchless panorama of battlefield 
 and vineyard, of cataract and quiet stream, of dark wood 
 and steepled villages, and breadth of peach orchards, and 
 far away across the blue waters of Ontario the smoke of 
 the great city to which our feet are set. Here we em- 
 bark on one of the palatial steamers of the Niagara Navi- 
 gation Co.'y, the "Chippewa," " Cibola," or "Chicora," 
 which make six trips a day and close connection with 
 all railway and steamer lines. 
 
 ' ii 
 
56 
 
 w 
 
 I 
 
 ALL-IIOUND ROUTE AN]J PANORAMKJ omDE. 
 
 NIAGARA-ON THE lake. 
 
 Th,s,s one of the oldest towns in Ontario, and was 
 
 he Falls and .ss.tuated where the old town of Newark 
 stood, and ,s opposite to Youngstown. It faces the riter 
 on one s,de and Lake Ontario on the other. The trade 
 of tins place has been largely diverted to St. Cathari™! 
 nee the con,piction of the Welland Canal; and he 
 other towns upon the Niagara River have suffered in 
 common ron, the same cause. Its surroundi, g a e 
 full o var,ed ,,„d historical interest, and from its health- 
 ful and beauflul situation and attractions in the way If 
 boa.ng, fish.ng and shooting, it has become a popuhr 
 um„,er re^,rt and boasts of an excellent hoteHrthe 
 •Queen s Royal Hotel," which is one of the most 
 delightful summer houses on the continent. 
 
 Almost immediately after leaving Niagara we pass be 
 tween the two Forts Niagara and Massfsauga : t e fo ' 
 mer garnsoned by American troops, and the latter, in 
 W';: "il':^: "V'^/^'^'^'-^ °f "" Majesty Qu'een 
 s sa,d, on a caIn, „,f,ht, the watchwords, as given bv 
 he troops on changing guard, could be heard dist ,"ctlv 
 from one side to the other across the water. ' 
 
 FORT NI.ACARA. 
 
 This fort stands at the mouth otthe Niagara river on 
 
 le A„encan side. There are many intefestingso- 
 
 uafons connected with this spot. During the earlier 
 
t' V" 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 57 
 
 part of the past century it was the scene of many severe 
 contests between the Whites and .he Indians, and sub- 
 sequently between the Engh'sh and the French. The 
 names of the heroic La Salle, the courtly De Nouville 
 and the gallant Prideaux will long retain a place in che 
 history of the country. The village adjacent to the 
 Fort ,s called Youngstown, in honor of its founder, the 
 late John Young. 
 
 Of late, important repairs have been made around 
 the Port, and the entire wall has been constructed anew 
 Here was fought the battle of the 24th July 17C7 in 
 which IVideaux.. the English General, fell, and after 
 which the French garrison surrendered to Sir WilUam 
 Johnson, who succeeded to the command of the English- 
 
 TORON-O VIA G. W. DIVISION OF GRAND TRUNK 
 RAILWAY AND STKAMER "EMPRESS OF INDIA." 
 
 One of the most popular ways of reaching Toronto is 
 by takmg the special G. T. R. steamboat express from 
 Suspension Bridge (twice daily), which passes through 
 the Garden of Ontario, and gives us a splendid view of 
 the Welland Canal with its wonderful locks and ship- 
 ping. Passing under it we shortly arrive at the busy city 
 of St. Catharines, with a population of over 10,000 
 which, besides being the principal point in the Niagara 
 District for business, and having quite a fame for a num- 
 ber of factories of various kinds, enjoys the widest cele- 
 brity for its medicinal springs, which are much resorted 
 to from both sides of the line, and, with the excellent 
 hotel accommodation to be had, combine to make St- 
 
I 
 
 ■58 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND TANOUAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 Catharines a place of much resort. The tourist on con- 
 tinuing his journey will take the express of the Grand 
 Trunk Railway, and after a few minutes' run will arrive 
 at Port Dalhousie, at the mouth of the Welland Canal 
 where the train runs directly along-side of the fine lake 
 steamer - Empress of India," and after an enjoyable 
 two and r, :alf hours' sa.l acrosr the blue waters of Lake 
 Ontario he arrives at the City of Toronto, landing in 
 the very centre of the city, near all the railways and 
 hotels, and alongside of the river steamers for Montreal- 
 The view of Toronto from the A\ater is very fine indeed, 
 and its public buildings and wharves indicate it to be a 
 city of importance and prosperity, 
 
 TORONTO 
 
 Is not only the Capital of the Province of Ontario and 
 one of the most flourishing cities in Canada, but it is one 
 of the most progressive cities in Her Majesty's Dominions 
 It IS situated on a beautiful bay separated from the Lake 
 by a penmsula known as Gibraltar Point, which r>erves 
 to form a safe and well-sheltered harbor. Toronto 
 boasts of several fine hotels, the chief amongst which is 
 
 THE QUEEN'S. 
 
 It is situated on Front St., between York and Bay Sts 
 and is a short distance from the railway stations and 
 steamboat landings. 
 
 This Hotel, under the veteran management of Messrs 
 McGaw & Winnett, is the most comfortable hotel in the 
 Dominion. While possessing every modern conve- 
 
ALL-KOUND ROUTK AND PANOKAMIC JUIDE. 
 
 59 
 
 •ua.u<iii.as-ua. 
 
 nience, and the latest and most scientific improvements 
 the Queen's has always been famous for the solid, cosy, 
 home-like comfort which is characteristic of the best 
 English hotels. Elegance and comfort is combined in 
 the happiest manner. The Queen's is one of the lar^^est 
 houses in Canada, and is the temporary home oi nine 
 out of every ten of the English tourists who come to the 
 city. 
 
 The best proof of an hotel's excellence is found in 
 the standing of the people who patronize it. On the 
 occasion of visits of members of the English Royal 
 Family to Toronto, this hotel has always^been their 
 stopping place. The Governor-Generals and Prime 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GL'iDE. 
 
 Ministers of the Dominion also make the QuemV, tluJr 
 headquarters wlien in Toronto. 
 
 Its register has included most of the n:<^mber., jfthe 
 nobility and distinguished persoiiaj/es who have visited 
 Toronto. 
 
 The hotel is remarkable for its cooluess In the hot- 
 test days of summer, on account of its pleasant 'situation 
 tvro hundred yards from ihe lake. It k suirounded by 
 • beautrfuJ grounds and stately shade trees, although it is 
 only tsvo jninjtes walk from the business centre of the 
 city. 
 
 The hoto; possesses every scientific appliance for ven- 
 tiiating, heating, lighting and plumbing. Its system of 
 fire protection makes it absolutely secure. Rooms en 
 suite with bath rooms and dressing rooms are lound on 
 every floor. 
 
 The service is unexcelled. The cuisine is marked by 
 the best E^nglish and French cookery. 
 
 The Walker House, at the corner of York and 
 Front Sts., is another first class, and very popular and 
 comfortable hotel. It is complete is every respect, and, 
 has long enjoyed a most extensive tourist patronage. 
 Mr. D. Walker is proprietor. 
 
 The Arlington, at the corner of King and John Sts. 
 is a comparatively new house, and is first class in every 
 respect. It is the headquarters of leading politicians 
 and business men and their families. The house is very 
 handsomely furnished throughout, and everything is in 
 the best and most modern style. The attendance is 
 excellent, and W. G. Havill is a very popular effi- 
 
 cient manager. 
 
ALL-ROUND HOUTK AND PANORAMIC GUIDK. 61 
 
 The Queen City, Toronto, formerly Little York, was 
 founded in 1794, and by the last census, that of 189 1, is 
 given a population of 181,220, now swelled to 250,000 
 The official numbering of 1881 was 86.445, showing an 
 advance ni wealth and population greater than any 
 other city in the Dominion. This beautiful city, which 
 IS HI fneformof a parallelogram., is built with o rcat 
 regularity, and its streets are well paved and always 
 clem, spacious and well lighted with gas. The liouses 
 and private residences are generally well built and sub- 
 stantial, and in the principal thorough-fares have often 
 an elegant appearance. Its public buildings are nume- 
 rous, very substantial, and many of them beautiful and 
 well worthy of inspection by all tourists and visitors 
 It is the seat of Law and Provincial Government, and 
 the headquarters of the Educational Department of 
 the Province. Many of the dwellings and business struc- 
 tures are built of brick, which has a hght, soft and 
 pleasing tint. The name of York was changed, after it 
 was mcorporated as a city in 1 834, to Toronto-meaninc., 
 in the Indian language. "The Place of Meetin-" It 
 was twice captured by the Americans in 18 13. who des 
 troyed all the fortifications and burned the public build- 
 ings ; smce then, enterprise and capital have taken the 
 place of shot and shell, and now it can with pride boast 
 of some of the finest buildings of their kind in America 
 among which may be mentioned : 
 
 WEST OF VONGE STREET. 
 Custom House, Front St. 
 ^ stcoTs^.^"''""'"'' ^''''''"''' ''''' °^ ^'"S and 
 
62 
 
 ALL-UOUNI) HOUTK AND PANOIUMK; (JUIDK. 
 
 lii^ 
 
 I! 
 
 r 
 
 Old Parliament Muildinjrs, Front St. 
 
 New Parliament Huildinj^s, Queen's Park. 
 
 St. Andrew's Church, King St. 
 
 Central Prison, Strachan Ave. 
 
 Zoological Gardens, Industrial Exhibition Grounds. 
 
 Inilustrial Exhibition Grounds and Palace. 
 
 Osgoode Hall, i.aw Courts, Queen St. 
 
 The New University Huildings, 
 
 Dominion Observatory, south of University Buildings. 
 
 McMaster Hall, Bloor St. 
 
 Monument to the late Volunteers who fell at Ridgeway 
 
 Queen's Park. 
 Monument to the late Hon. George Brown, Queen's Park. 
 Provincial Lunatic Asylum and Grounds, Queen St. 
 Trinity College, Queen St. 
 Knox College, Spadina Ave. 
 
 m 
 
 IIORTICULTUEAL GABDKN8. 
 
ALL-llOUND HOUTK AND rANOUAMIC GUIDE, 63= 
 
 •k. 
 
 
 
 EAST or VONGE STREET. 
 
 Normal School, Museum, etc., Gould St. 
 Horticultural Gardens, Gerrard St. 
 St. Michael's Cathedral (Roman Catholic), Bond St. 
 St. James' Cathedral (Episcopal), King St. 
 St. Lawrence Market and City Hall Buildings, Kintr 
 and Front Sts. 
 
 Metropolitan Church (Methodist), Queen St. 
 
 Baptist Chuch, Jarvis St. 
 
 Old St. Andrew's Church (Presbyterian), Jarvis St. 
 
 Unitarian Church, Jarvis St. 
 
 Post Office, Adelaide St. 
 
 Public Library, Church St. 
 
 General Hospital, Gerrard St. 
 
 Rooms of the Ontario Society of Artists, King St 
 
 The Cemeteries-The Necropolis, St. James' a^nd Mount 
 
 Pleasant, 
 The Rosedale Bridges, the Bank Buildings, etc. 
 
 THK CHIEF PLACES OK AMUSEMENT ARE THE 
 
 Pavilion Music Hall, Horticultural Gardens, Gerrard 
 St. E. 
 
 Grand Opera "House, 5 Adelaide St. West, 
 Toronto Opera House, 27 Adelaide St. W. 
 Academy of Music, King St, W. 
 Masse}'' Music Hall. 
 
 The Normal School and Trinity College are both fine 
 edifices ; the University of Toronto, before its destruc- 
 tion by /v ;, was one of the finest buildings in America, 
 
 li-i 
 
 illlj 
 
64 
 
 ALL-R.H.N,, ,,.,.( 1^ ^jjjj PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 I ' 
 
 |(i i 
 
 and is second to none on this side of the Atlantic as a 
 seat of learning. The style of architecture was Norman 
 with siKli slight deviations as the climate demands, and 
 the building was one which an> . r., might justly feel 
 proud of possessing. New buildings on the same site and 
 in the same unique style of architecture are now com- 
 P eted. They arc situated in a large, beautiful park 
 whoso avenues are ornamented with stately trees etc 
 aad approached by College Avenue, which is one-half 
 mile long, and lined with double rows of beautiful shade 
 f-ees. Adjoining these beautiful grounds on the east is 
 the Queen's Park, which comprises about So acres, taste- 
 fully laid out ; here may be seen a monument, consist- 
 nig of a brown .stone shaP surmounted by a ma^nific- t 
 marble statue of Britannia. This monument was erect- 
 ed to the memory of the Canadians who fell in re- 
 pelling the Fenian invasion of iS66. Osgoode Hall in 
 Queen street (named after the first Chief Justice of the 
 Province), is .mother imposing building of the Grecian- 
 Ionic style, and is surriounCed by a be.-rutiful dome. Its 
 library and rotunda are uneq ailed in America. The 
 City Hall and ^ :ourt House ii course of erection will be 
 among the finest to be seen anywhere; they will cost 
 over $2,000,000. 
 
 Toronto has ..umerous manufactures, among which 
 are extensive foundries, tanneries, breweries, distilleries • 
 furniture, carriage, reaping and .,, nving machine manu- 
 factories ; starch, glue, soa, nd candle factories ■ exten 
 sive ropewalks ; flour mills . a to be found.-in fact 
 every Ime oftrade is repres. .ted by business firm, whose 
 characteristics are such as to warrant us in speaK.ng of 
 them in eulogistic terms. 
 
 1 1 
 
Advertisements 
 
 Qiiebec S Lake St. John Ry., 
 
 CANADIAN ADIUONDACKS 
 
 ''""su.anrs7.!r''' ^'"«<'»""" ^'th Sa^uenay 
 r400aS4C, CACOUNA. 
 
 MURRA Y Bf,Y d QUEBEC. 
 
 .■n.il-back'to tile roTrlt'oUy^'"''''^^ ''>' '"*y-'i«'i' 
 •rOIICIIIK« at all the BKAlTlfl'L SEASIDE RESORTS 
 
 <To,[,';,!o^?rH'^t^r"-^"-. ^"^ "-" ''"am of 
 
 nectio,, wim the Isla d Cwf .^-.'.L !? Si'>- 
 oliaiKP, of Lakp St ^^ T '"J'SMld Dig. 
 
 <)ua.fH;UcL%i„^g*Wfoun:i8^' '"""''' '" ^'"' 
 
 IMKtOR AND SLKEPING CAKS, 
 
 Magnificent Scenery, Beautiful Olimate. 
 
 Apply to the Ticket Af^ontso. .11 Principal Cities 
 
 **-='• H'.RDY, , _ 
 
 ff'n. />*.«. 4»/ "•«. scorr. 
 
AW/IA1I3 
 
■ i ?b, 
 
&I tf 
 
 I- 1! 
 
 II: ^ 
 
 Advertisements. 
 
 All Con noisseu rs 
 
 SMOKE 
 
 
 l«******>««*>«*««*^«^>«^K»«*-«*>«*«*«»^^^5J5«^JK*-«^^*^«* 
 
 ■Ik 
 
 La Flora Especial 
 
 ^ 
 
 *»**«j((iK«J8(***««j««j*JJ(*jJ(**JKi8.«j8^aK^jKjjj^^^j{j^^^j^^^^^^^^| 
 
 ^^ ^*y 
 
 G IGARS 
 
 "^i' <^ 
 
 Superior to the majority of 15 cent imported cigars. 
 EL PflD R^EEDLES. 
 
 New size, worth double the price charged. 
 
 -**• 
 
 MANUFACTURED BY. 
 
 S. DAVIS 8c SONS, 
 
 M 
 

 i\ 
 
 
 cigfars. 
 
 id. 
 
 
 ALL-ROUND KOUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 65 
 
 It has a splendid harbor, which admits of vessels of 
 the largest size navigating the lakes; it is remarkably 
 well sheltered, and affords great facilities for its extensive 
 and constantly increasing trade. 
 
 ^ A very pleasant detour from Toronto, and one which 
 is very fashionable, is the run up the Northern Railuay 
 line to the beautiful waters of Lake Simcoe and Couchi- 
 ching. 1 his should on no account be omitted from the 
 itmerary of any St. Lawrence tourist, and we shall make 
 a slight digression to conduct him to its beauties. Taking 
 the Northern and North-western Division of the Grand 
 Trunk Railway, we pass through a populous and fertile 
 country with extensive farms, substantial farm-houses 
 and large saw-mills, stopping at intervals at stations 
 which are models of neatness and beaut)-, being adorned 
 with flower gardens and lawns watered by refreshing 
 fountains. A k^v hours' pleasant ride brings us to Kem- 
 penfeldt Bay, the southern arm of Lake Simcoe on 
 which is situated 
 
 BARRIE, 
 
 the county town, a prosperous place of 6,000 inhabitants 
 beautifully situated upon sloping hillsides, which show- 
 off to picturesque advantage its pretty residences and 
 handsome churches. Barric is a delightful summer resort 
 with an excellent fleet ofyachts and boats, whose charm- 
 ing lines and sea-worthy appearance indicate that the 
 place is favored with the possession of superior boat- 
 building advantages. 
 
 A further run by train from Barrie. skirting the Lake 
 and affording beautiful vistas of its waters at many points,' 
 
 E 
 
 N 
 
\l 
 
 66 
 
 AliL-KOUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC lUIDE, 
 
 and we come to the neck of land which connects Sim- 
 coe with Couchiching, called the " Narrows," and reach 
 Orillia. This is beautifully situated on a slope by the 
 Lake, and is fast rising in importance. Sailing and 
 boating are the favorite pastimes of the people, and are 
 extensively indulged in. 
 
 Couchiching ! Well may the curious tourist, struck by 
 the peculiarity of the name, ask its meaning. Indian 
 nomenclature is always appropriate and descriptive ; 
 here the varying breezes, welcome adjuncts of a summer 
 resort, that fan the surface of the lake have given the 
 Indian name for " Lake of many winds. ' This locality 
 is among the highest in America, being 750 feet above 
 Lake Ontario, 415 above Lake Huron, and 390 feet 
 above Lake Superior. The rapidity of the rise from 
 Lake Ontario may thus be judged ; and the consequent 
 elevation and clearness of the atmosphere and the cool 
 breezes would, apart from any other consideration, be 
 sufficient to commend the localit>- as a favrrite one for 
 a summer visit. 
 
 Another enjoyable trip is to the Upper Lakes, reached 
 by the Canadian Pacific to Owen Sound, and thence by 
 C.P.R. lake steamships through Lakes Huron and Supe- 
 rior to Fort William, passing through the celebrated Soo 
 Canal. This most enjoyable trip can be made in a 
 week. 
 
 Having returned to Toronto, we may continue our 
 tour eastward, either by boat in one of the fine steamers 
 of the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Co.'y, or by rail 
 in a palace car of the Canadian Pacific or Grand Trunk 
 R.R, 
 
ALL-BOUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 TO MONTREAL BY THE C. P. R. 
 
 67 
 
 It is a pleasant ride from Toronto eastward in the 
 luxurious cars of the Canadian Pacific Ry., which run 
 through an interesting and picturesqn. part of the coun- 
 try. The route is past the famous fishing lakes at the 
 headwaters of the Trent, past Tweed and Sharbot Lake 
 where connecting lines lead to Kingston at the head of 
 the Thousand Islands through whose wonderful maze 
 and the numerous rapids of the St. Lawrence the trip 
 to Montreal may be continued. From Smith's Falls 
 (128 miles from Montreal) branch lines extend to Brock- 
 ville on the St. Lawrence and to Ottawa, and passengers 
 instead of proceeding direct to Montreal may here change- 
 their route and proceed via the capital. 
 
 The celebrated fishing resorts of the Rideau Lakes 
 may also be reached from Smith's Falls by steamer, and. 
 the voyage continued by river and canal to Kinc^ston 
 The trip to Montreal by rail, houever, is equally inter- 
 estmg. Passing through a well-settled section, quaint 
 old French villages are touched, and a glimpse obtained 
 of habitant life. The Otta\va river is crossed at Ste 
 Anne's, made famous by its picturesque beauty and the 
 magic pen of the poet Moore, and soon the mighty St 
 Lawrence comes into sight. The approach to Montreal 
 through orchards and farms and pretty villages furnishes 
 a pleasing view, the train running on elevated tracks 
 almost into the heart of the city. The tourist is landed 
 at the imposing Windsor Station, one of the finest depots 
 m America, near which are the Windsor and other 
 hotels and many of the chief points of interest which 
 delight the sight-seer. 
 
 lii; 
 
68 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND I'ANOItAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 After leaving Toronto by the G.T.R. or steamer, the 
 first place of any importance we come to is 
 
 BOWMANVILLE, 
 
 a thriving town of about S.ooo inhabitants, in the midst 
 ofa very fine agricultural district, and prettily situated 
 on an elevated plateau, from which two streams run on 
 either side into Lake Ontario. About two and a half 
 miles from the town is its port, styled Port Darlington, 
 and affording excellent harborage, where the daily 
 line of steamers first stop after leaving Toronto. The 
 fine water power at their command has been utilized 
 by the enterprising citizens of Bowmanville with great 
 energy ; numerous manufactories have taken root, and 
 given the town a great impetus. Principal among these 
 we may mention that of the Dominion Organ & Piano 
 Co., which was started many years ago, and was taken 
 hold of by the company of the same name who 
 still carry it on, in 1875. The officers of the Com- 
 pany are J. H. Farwell, Detroit, president ; John Wesley, 
 secretary and treasurer ; George Piggott, manager of 
 the manufacturing department; and W. S. Russell, 
 manager of the tuning department. The business of the 
 Company has increased from the first, until now they 
 are turning out 200 organs and 50 pianos per month. 
 The factory is a fine four-story building with mansard 
 roof, fronting on two streets, 165 feet by 175 feet. Their 
 instruments have carried off prizes at the Industrial 
 Exhibition, Philadelphia, 1876, and Paris, 1878. Their 
 organ is the only one outside the United States which 
 has received at\ International Award, and their business 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 69 
 
 extend to all parts of the Dominion. England. Australia, 
 South America and Germany-a fact which speaks vo- 
 luntas as to the merit of the instrument they turn out. 
 Ihe next place of importance is 
 
 PORT HOPE, 
 
 situated sixty-three miles from Toronto. A small stream 
 that here falls mto the Lake has formed a valley, in 
 wh.ch. and on the rising hills beyond, the town is situated 
 The harbor formed at the .nouth of this stream is one of 
 the best on the Lake. Port Hope is a very prett3- town. 
 The town ,s mcorporated, and contains over 5.000 inhab- 
 itants On the western side, the hills rise gradually 
 one above another, the highest summit called " Fort 
 Orton" affording a fine prospect, and overlookino- the 
 country for a great distance around. 
 
 COBOURG 
 
 lies 6 miles below Port Hope. It is a town of 8,000 
 inhabitants, and is situated in the centre of an exceedin-^ly 
 fertile section of the country. Its harbor is safe and com- 
 modious, and a large quantity of grain, produce, etc is 
 annually exported. It is very prettily laid out. and its 
 streets are adorned with numerous elegant residences and 
 public buildings, including the Town Hall and Vic- 
 toria Coileg^e (VVesleyan). Cobourg has a number of 
 industries of various kinds, which give employment ^o a 
 great portion of its population, chief amongst which is 
 the Crossen Car Works. 
 
 About 30 miles east of Cobourg and 12 miles west of 
 
 ' I 
 
 'I'idii I' ' 
 
 I 
 
7(» 
 
 -VLL-ROUNIi ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 f*' iv 
 
 ■»• -i 
 
 1 1 
 
 Belleville, on the Grand Trunk Ry., and at the meeting 
 of the beautiful River Trent with the Bay of Quinte, lies 
 the town of 
 
 TRENTON, 
 
 beautifully situated at the base of a mountain, and sur- 
 rounded by a charming country whose fertility is famous. 
 Its population numbered 4,364 by the Census of 1S91, 
 and it is the seat of an extensive lumber and milling in- 
 dustry. The country watered by the River Trent is 
 very picturesque, and is considered the most desirable 
 shooting, fishing and camping ground on the continent- 
 Traced to its source the Trent passes through Rice Lake, 
 reserved by the Government for fishing purposes on the 
 payment tf a. small sum, and, from the quantity of wild 
 rice which ^frves to it the name, and fringes its borders, 
 it is the IvorviC of the wild duck and other fowl. The 
 River Otofiabee is reached farther on, and 
 
 LAKEFIELD 
 
 nestles in quiet beauty, where it widens into the Lake of 
 Rapids. A few days fishing and shooting is recom- 
 mended in the far-famed sporting district of Rice Lake, 
 and Munro's House, the " Queen's," will be found an 
 excellent stopping place. Thence between bold and 
 rocky banks it races to 
 
 PETERBOROUGH. 
 
 Both these places may be easily reached by the Grand 
 Trunk R'y. from Port Hope or Belleville, and Peterboro 
 direct from Toronto by the Canadian Pacific. Peterbo- 
 
ALL-llOUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 71 
 
 rough is a very thriving town surrounded by a most pro- 
 ductive as well as attractive country ; it is now aspiring 
 to the dignity of a city, having more than 10,000 inha*^ 
 bitants. Its appearance is handsome, and it is joined to 
 the village of Ashburnham, opposite i fine bridge. 
 
 The river has excellent fishing, and canoeing is much in 
 vogue amongst the inhabitants— a taste which has been 
 fostered by the superior article turned out by the Cana- 
 dian Canoe Co'y., which has its factory there. They 
 build canoes of all sizes, from cedar, basswood and other 
 woods, and judging from their rapidly increasing business 
 their work must be giving satisfaction. Their prices are 
 reasonable and workmanship unsurpassed; theyalso build 
 row-boats and launches, the former of which are very 
 popular, and the latter are equal to any in simplicity, 
 speed and appearance. The " Grand Central," under the 
 management of Mr. David Lackie, can be recommended 
 as a first class hotel. It is the grand centre for commer- 
 cial men, tourists and campers. The electric cars for 
 all parts of the town pass its doors every five minutes. 
 The house is equipped with every modern convenience, 
 such as electric bells, baths, etc. A free bus meets all 
 trains. 
 
 Having made this pleasant detour, we return to the 
 main line of the Grand Trunk, and reach 
 
 BELLEVILLE, 
 
 a town of considerable importance situated on the Bay 
 of Ouinte, 44 miles from Cobourg. This town has grown 
 rapidly during the past fewyears, and has now a popula- 
 tion of over 10,000. It is well built, well lighted, and 
 
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 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
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 possesses a fine harbor, with an unh'niited water power 
 supplied by the River Moira, which passes through the 
 city and furnishes power for the numerous manufactur- 
 ing industries of the place. Amongst the most impor- 
 tant is the G. &. ). Brown Mfg. Coy., who are the most 
 enterprising and progressive bridge-builders in Canada. 
 Their work is to be seen in every part of the country ; 
 but their chef d'ceuvre may be said to be the highway 
 bridge which joins Belleville with Rossmore, and is the 
 longest and finest of the kind in the Dominion, In the 
 suram.-ir time, steamers leave daily for different ports 
 along the bay and River St. Lawrence. Massassauga 
 Point on this bay is quite a resort, and excellent fishing 
 is to be had there. Among the windmg and romantic 
 shores of this bay the more destructive form of enterprise 
 has happily stayed its hand, so that much of the primitive 
 beauty survives. Then, too, the charm of this famous 
 bay is in no slight measure due to cloud effects and the 
 changeful humor of the sun, while the inlets and wooded 
 headlands, and the waving barley fields beyond — for the 
 barley of the Bay of Quinte is far-famed— all add to the 
 beauty of surrounding scenery. Belleville is an incorpor- 
 ated city, and contains, besides the county buildings, 
 many very handsome stores and churches, with a college, 
 a convent, banks and other buildings of a superior class. 
 
 KINGSTON 
 
 is reached 50 miles further east. A settlement was 
 begun here by the French under Governor De Courcelles 
 in 1672, and was known as Fort Cataraqui. Subsequent- 
 ly a massive stone fort was erected by Count de Fron- 
 tenac, and received his name. 
 
 f i 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 73 
 
 This Fort was alternately in the possession of the 
 French and the Indians, until it was destroyed by the 
 English under Col. Bradstreet. in 1758. In 1762, the 
 place fell into the hands of the English, from whom it 
 received its present name. Pleasantly situated at the 
 head of the Thousand Islands, where Lake Ontario, the 
 last link of the chain of the inland seas of the West, 
 together with the Bay of Quinte and the Great Cataraqui 
 Creek, are united to form what is now the St. Lawrence 
 proper. From this place to the Gulf of St. Lawrence 
 the distance is 700 miles. Including the series of lakes 
 to the head of Lake Superior, the total length of this 
 great jland water course is about 1900 miles. 
 
 As a place of defence it stands next in strength to 
 Quebec. The batteries of Fort Henry are calculated f 5r 
 the reception of numerous cannon and mortars of the 
 largest calibre. These, together with neighboring mar- 
 tello-towers, form a formidable and efficient defence 
 against any aggressive movement which might be direct- 
 ed against the city. The Royal Military College is situa- 
 ted here. 
 
 Kingston possesses two colleges, and has several hand- 
 some public buildings, such as the Court House, Cus- 
 tom Hou.se, City Hall, Banks, Post Office, etc. The 
 population is about 20,000. Adjacent to the city is 
 Portsmouth, where are located the Provincial Peniten- 
 tiary and Rockwood Lunatic Asylum. 
 
 Opposite Kingston are Wolf and Garden Islands, 
 between which and the city lies the bay, a beautiful sheet 
 of water. 
 
 King.ston is 172 miles from Montreal, and at this point, 
 
 I n 
 
 I ; 
 
 lii 
 
74 
 
 ALL-UOUND ROUTE AND PAXORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 which is also reached from Toronto by C.P.R. and con- 
 necting lines, we purpose leaving the train, and continu- 
 ing our journey by water on one of the steamers of the 
 Richelieu & Ontario Nav. Coy. 
 
 THE FOIST, Kl.VdSTOV. 
 
 CAPE VINCENT 
 
 is a pretty frontier village of Northern New York, sit- 
 uated immediately at the point where the blue waters of 
 Lake Ontario flow into the broad channel of the St. 
 Lawrence. It is directly opposite the thrifty city of 
 Kingston, and at the head of the Thousand Islands 
 group. The country about the Cape is celebrated for 
 its scenery, healthfulness and historical points of interest 
 and the drives along the old river roads or around the 
 numerous bays are very enjoyable. 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDK. 
 
 75 
 
 Steamers leave Cape Vincent several times daily for 
 all points in the Thousand Islands and Canada ; there 
 is also a regular ferry to Kingston. 
 
 The steamer which leaves Toronto in the afternoon is 
 due early next morning, thereby enabling the tourist to 
 view all the scenery down to Montreal. 
 
 THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 
 
 This remarkable archipelago really includes about 
 1,700 islands, which dot in the most romantic manner 
 the River St. Lawrence, beginning near Kingston at the 
 outlet of Lake Ontario, and extending some iorty miles 
 town the river to Brockville. They present to the view 
 of the passing traveller everj-thing conceivable in the 
 way of an island from a bare rock a yard across to an 
 island covering many acres, some heavily wooded, some 
 covered only with grass, some cultivated as farms, some 
 containing only a beautiful summer residence with its 
 surrounding pleasure-grounds, and others fitted up with 
 rustic seats and tables for pleasure parties. Some of the 
 islands are hilly, while others scarcely rise above the 
 water's surface, and viewed from the deck of a steamer 
 winding its way among them, make an impression upon 
 the mind that memory tenaciously clings to. Of course 
 these localities are the haunts of sportsmen, especially 
 those who enjoy fishing and wild fowl shooting, and 
 every facility for these pursuits, as well as for boating 
 and other watering-place recreations, is furnished by the 
 summer hotels among the islands. 
 
76 
 
 ALL-ROUND IIOUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE 
 
 m I 
 
 'if . 
 
 At times the vessel 
 passes so close to the 
 islands that a pebble 
 might be cast on their 
 shores. Again look- 
 ing ahead, it some- 
 times appears as though further 
 progress is effectually barred, but 
 the boat winds about tortuous pas- 
 sages until a "clear road " is once more seen. Sud- 
 denly the river seems to come to an abrupt termination 
 but approaching the threatening shores a channel sud- 
 denly appears, and you are whirled into a magnificent 
 amphitheatre lake. This is, to all appearances, bounded 
 by an immense green bank. At your approach the mass 
 Js moved as if in a kaleidoscope, and a hundred little isles 
 appear in its place. 
 
ALL-UOUXD KOUTK AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 77 
 
 " A MAZE of isles in wondrous beauty planned : 
 A thousand times the torrent leaves a strand. 
 Unnumhered channels— seeming each the way, 
 Till trying all, the parted'waters stray 
 'I'o murmur softly at each lovely shore 
 That smiling bars the path, half lost before. 
 
 Oh ! mighty river, all thine inland seas 
 
 With all their marvels boast not match for these 
 
 Thick clustered beauties— as though hand had brought 
 
 Earth's fairest fragments to the common spot. 
 
 Or nature's richest chest of jewels rare 
 
 Perchance had fallen, burst and scattered there." 
 
 Such is the charming scenery presented on this beau- 
 tiful route. 
 
 i-Aiiiv LAxn— duo of the loco islaiuls. 
 
 ■^'^fr^ 
 
 These islands,"too, have been the scene of most ex- 
 citing romance. From their great number, and the 
 labyrinth-like channels amongst them, they afforded an 
 admirable retreat for the insurgents in the Canadian in- 
 surrection of 1837 and for the American sympathizers 
 with them, who under the questionable name of " pat- 
 riots " sought to overthrow the British Government in 
 Canada. Among these was one man who, from his 
 daring and ability, became an object of anxious pursuit 
 
 ! 
 
78 
 
 ALL-ROUi\D ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 3 *f- 
 
 to the Canadian authorities. Here he found a safe 
 asylum, through the devotedness and courage of his 
 daughter, whose skillful management of her canoe was 
 such that with hosts of pursuers she still baffled their 
 efforts at capture, while she supplied him with provisions 
 in these solitary retreats, rowing from one place of con- 
 cealment to another under the shadow of night. 
 
 The trip by steamer among these islands lasts for 
 several hours, and for scenic effects and variety of 
 picturesque views it is simply unrivalled. It is unique 
 and without a parallel in the world. The international 
 boundary line between Canada and the States is laid in 
 mid-stream, thus dividing the ownership of the islands 
 between both countries. While many of them might as 
 well be situated in an unexplored wilderness for all the 
 trace of civilization they show, a great proportion of the 
 larger ones bear the handsome summer residences of 
 wealthy people, and at different points grand hotels 
 have been erected, the most popular of them being sur- 
 rounded by cottages, presenting the appearance of 
 thriving villages, while the snowy tents of camping and 
 picnicing parties are here, there, and everywhere upon 
 the smaller isles, as the fancy of their occupants dictates. 
 All the great hotels and the most imposing summer re- 
 sidences are upon the American side, but it does not 
 follow that the portion south of the international line is 
 the finest ; on the contrary, it is now universally ac- 
 knowledged that on the Canadian side are found the 
 most beautiful scenery, by far the best fishing, and the 
 most desirable sites for camp or cottage, and it bids fair 
 soon to attract the greater number of visitors. 
 
ALL-IiOUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE, 79^ 
 
 GANANOQUE. 
 
 The first place of importance on the Canadian side 
 after leaving Kingston is the pretty town of Gananoque, 
 about 1 8 miles to the east, and situated at the confluence 
 of the St Lawrence with the Gananoque River. The 
 town has a population of about 5,000, and is quite famous 
 for the number and variety of its manufactures. 
 
 To the tourist, however, it is principally interesting as- 
 being almost in the midst of the looo islands, and acces- 
 sible to them by rail and steamer from all points. 
 
 ■ 
 
 y«^-5 
 
 CLAYTON 
 
 is the first stop- 
 ping place of the 
 steamer on the 
 American side. It 
 is a delightful 
 place of resort, 
 being situated 
 directly in front 
 of the upper 
 group of the 
 Thousand Islands. The finest fishing on the River St. 
 Lawrence is found in the immediate vicinity of Clayton ; 
 pike, black bass, pickerel and maskinonge of extraordin- 
 ary size being the usual catch. Experienced and attentive 
 oarsmen, the best of boats, and splendid hotel accommo- 
 dation render this the favorite resort for fishing parties. 
 All lines of steamers stop at Clayton. Wagner's Palace 
 
ii,! 
 
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 :i.i i 
 
 I; 
 
 
 
 It If 
 
 !l 
 
 ■ '1 
 !.i 
 
 80 
 
 .MJ-nOUNl) liOUTK ANI. I'ANOKAMIC GUIDK. 
 
 Sleeping Cars run through without change from New 
 York in thirteen hours, and through cars from Utica in 
 four hours. 
 
 At certain centres of these transient communities are 
 landmgs for steamers and objective points for the tra- 
 veller, the first of them being at Round Island, which h'es 
 opposite Clayton, N.Y., and boasts of a fine hotel and 
 quite a number of cottages. This was formerly the scene 
 of a large Baptist camp-meeting. A few miles further 
 on, and ,n the very heart of the archipelago, is Thousand 
 Island Park, one of the most popular resorts on the 
 river, and speciall}- patronized by Canadians. Approach- 
 mg the park there is a beautiful view from the steamer 
 of crystal water, and island after island, stretching away 
 as far as eye can see, until they appear to form an un- 
 broken coast-line. 
 
 Thousand Island Park began as a religious summer 
 encampment, under the charge of a Methodist organiza- 
 tion, which purchased a large territoi at the head of 
 VVellesIey island. Since 1875 nearly 400 cottages and 
 several hotels have been built there, also n immense 
 tabernacle of worship on Sunday, and for lectures, con- 
 certs, and the instruction of classes during week days • 
 but the enjoyment of yachting, boating, fishing and 
 flirting takes up much more time among all the visitors 
 and residents than does attention to the seasons in- 
 structive exercises. At the lower end of this same is- 
 land is another hotel settlement named Westminster 
 Park, under the influence of the Presbyterian church. 
 
 A beautiful and devious run of half a dozen miles 
 further takes the steamer to 
 
ALL-UOUND ItOUTK AND PAXoilAMK! (;i;il)i:. 81 
 
 
 ■ ''Ml 
 
 VC--W'--^' 
 
 # M ^■i^ 
 |!, it: ir-f*'.*! 
 
 mm 
 
 ,?■■ ii-'itj 
 IS: 'i IP'ilf 
 

 J: 
 
 IJ -ll 
 
 I' I 
 
 82 ALI,-I10UN1> UOUTK AND I'AXOKAMIC GLIUK. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA BAY 
 
 ; > 
 
 A SOKNK XKAK ALEXANDRIA IIAV. 
 
 —the very centre of summer life in the Thousand Is- 
 lands. As a summer resort Alexandria Bay is fairly 
 entitled to the name of the "Saratoga of the St. Law- 
 rence." It is one of the most popular watering-places 
 
ALL-KOINI) lioiTE AND TAN'OIiAMK! G'. 
 
 IDK. 
 
 .S3 
 
 in America, and among its cottanrc owners and regular 
 visitors are many who liav.; distinguished themselves in 
 various walks of life. 
 
 l.AKK OF THK ISLKS— 1000 IslaiUlS. 
 
 Some two or three hundred yards below the village 
 IS a position from whence one hundred islands can be 
 seen at one view. Undoubtedly the pleasantest part of 
 the Lake of a Thousand Isla-Hs lies adjacent to Alex- 
 andria Bay, at which arc erected the finest hotels in the 
 
 P 
 
fff I 
 
 fit 
 
 
 T 
 
 l» 11 
 
 n 
 II 11 
 
 84 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANOltAMIC GUIDE, 
 
 Islands. Within siglit of these hotels are the beautiful 
 lawns of Westminster Park, the handsome villas of Hay- 
 den Island, the commanding situation of Mr. Hart's 
 " Eyrie," the breezy site so dear to the lamented Dr. J. 
 G. Holland, where the anxieties of " Scribner " were 
 exchanged, for the nonce, for the lotus existence of 
 
 RUSTIC lililDfil:, NOIIKV Isr.ANUS. 
 
 " Bonnie Castle," the rugged promontories of Carleton 
 Island, associated with scenes of the early French his- 
 tory of the continent, and many others, named and un- 
 named, upon which Nature has left her sweetest im- 
 press. 
 
 The cluster known as the " Three Sisters" are the east- 
 ern sentinels of this extraordinary group of rooo Islands; 
 and after we pass them, the glittering roofs and spires of 
 the handsome town of 
 
WE. 
 
 beautiful 
 s of Hay- 
 [r. Hart's 
 ed Dr. J. 
 r " were 
 stence of 
 
 ALL ROUND ROUTK AND PANORAMU' (iUIDK. 
 
 85 
 
 T» 
 
 X 
 
 Carleton 
 
 ?nch his- 
 
 and un- 
 
 itest im- 
 
 the east- 
 Islands ; 
 spires of 
 
 A (JUK-^T sruT— 10(1,1 Islalliki. 
 
 BROCKVILLE 
 
 on the Canadian side are sighted. It is built on an 
 elevation which rises from the banks ot the St. Laurence 
 in a succession'of graceful ridges, and is one of the pret- 
 tiest towns in Canada. It receives its name from General 
 Brock, the hero of Queenston Heights in 1812. It is on 
 the line of the Grand Trunk Ry., and a branch of the 
 Canadian Pacific Ry. runs from it to Ottawa, the Cana- 
 dian Capital. There is also connection by ferry with 
 the Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg Ry. Many fine 
 public bui dings and private residences attest the pros- 
 
 ti 
 
86 
 
 ALL-IJOUM) KOUTK AND I'ANOIUMKJ GUIDE. 
 
 pcrity and enterprise of its inhabitants. The hotel accon,- 
 modat.on is very good. The population is about 
 10,000. 
 
 OGDKNSHURG 
 
 Is situated on the A 
 
 Micrican side of ti)e riv 
 
 year 1748, the Abbe Fran(;ois Piquet, wl 
 st3icd the " apostle of the Ii 
 
 er. 
 
 In th 
 
 e 
 
 blish a m 
 that tribe had 
 
 "ociuoi^ 
 
 10 was afterwards 
 was sent to esta- 
 
 ission at this place, as many of the Ind 
 
 manifested a d 
 
 tianity. A settlement was be 
 
 ians of 
 esirc for embracinn- Chris- 
 
 th 
 
 IS mission, and a fort called " La I _.,^„ 
 built at the mouth of the Osweqatchie, on Vl 
 1 h 
 
 gnn in connection with 
 
 lesentation" was 
 
 ic west side. 
 
 remains of the walls of this hort are still to b 
 
 In October, 1749, it was attacked by a band 
 Indians, who. althmuTh k,-.,,-,.i. ' i_ . 
 
 c seen. 
 
 Ind 
 desti 
 
 of Mohawk 
 
 bel 
 
 s, who, althou-h bravely rep'ulsed, succeeded ... 
 ■oyin- the palLsadcs of the fort and two of the vessels 
 
 ong;ing to the col 
 
 the settlement soon after ti 
 
 ony. The Abbe Piquet retired fr 
 
 om 
 
 e conquest of Canada, return- 
 
 ing to France, where he died in 1781. 0-densbu.< 
 
 increas 
 
 a V 
 
 ed rapidly within the past fe 
 
 as 
 
 population of over 10,000. It has railroad 
 
 in every direction, and from its facilities fo 
 
 w years, and has now- 
 
 con nection 
 
 grain and merchandise, it h 
 trade from the West. 
 
 r transhipping 
 
 as secured a larqc forward 
 
 insT 
 
 im 
 
 PRESCOTT 
 
 Is situated on the Canadian side of the St. Lawrence 
 opposite Ogdensburcr. and contains 4000 inhabitants It 
 IS one of the most beautiful towns in the v.alleyofthe 
 St. Lawrence. Amon-st its principal objects of interest 
 
Al-I.-liOUNI) UOVTK AND J'ANOUAMIC GI'IDE. 
 
 8 
 
 arc old I-'ort Wellington, 
 named in honor of tlic Iron 
 Duke, also the tomb of Jiar- 
 bara Heck, tlie founder of 
 Methodism in America. 
 
 About a mile below I'rcs- 
 
 cott at a place called Wind 
 
 |y^^ ,-:^:p'~? Mill Point, the Dominion 
 
 ^^^ Goverimient has reconstriict- 
 
 "■ cd from the old wind mill one 
 
 '■Hv 
 
 ipJBWP 
 
88 
 
 AI,I,-K()IINI) KOUTK AND I'ANOKAMU; (JUIDH. 
 
 Of the la.-cst and best lisht-houscs in the Dominion of 
 Canada. It was at this place that in November 1837. 
 the patriots under Van Schultz, a Polish exile, establish- 
 ed themselves, but were driven from it by tlic Canadian 
 M.htia with fearful loss. About four miles below I'.es- 
 cott on the American shores is Point Arie, uhcre the 
 State of New York has erected an Insane Asylum ; the 
 cost of this mammoth and maornificent structure will be 
 almost three millions of dollars. The grounds comprise 
 1,000 acres. On the left of the steamer, and opposite 
 the new asylum, is Chimney Island, on which the remains 
 of an old 1-rench fortification are still to be seen. 
 
 The next town on the An.erican side is Waddington ; 
 and in the river opposite it is Ogden Island. On the 
 Canadian side is Morrisbu,- which contains about - 000 
 nihaoitants. A short distance below Morrisburg, on' the 
 Canadian side, is Chrysler's Farm, where in 1813 a battle 
 uas fought between the English and the Americans 
 
 I 
 
 rhn-ty miles below Ogdensburg is Louisville, from 
 whence stages run to Massena Springs, a place of popular 
 resort and of beautiful surroundings, distant about 7 miles. 
 When six miles below Prescott the descent of the 
 Gallops Rapids is made, being the first rapids of the St. 
 Lawrence ; at the head of the Edwardsburg Canal, at this 
 
A1,I,-1!()I;NI-) ItOUTK AND I'ANOUAMIG (;i;ii)i:. 
 
 89 
 
 point, the Dominion Government has expended some 
 two and .i half millions of dollars in cnlar<fin^ tJieC'anal 
 and removing obstructions from the river channel. 
 
 Following the descent of the Gallops, another rapid is 
 passed almost immediately ; this is called Rapidcdn Plat. 
 The descent of these rapids is made with full head of 
 steam on, yet there is scarcely anything to indicate that 
 our steamer is not pursuing its usu il smooth and even 
 course, until, after passing Monisbuig, tourists will ob- 
 serve our noble steamer increase her speed, thus indicat- 
 ing the near approach of the most fascinating and excit- 
 ing event of the trip. 
 
 LONG SAULT. 
 
 The increasing swiftness of the current of the river 
 soon reveaL to us the fact, that we are about to cnte'' 
 the first of those remarkable and celebrated Rapids of 
 the St. Lawrence. " Shooting the Rapids" (as this por- 
 tion of the voyage is termed) is a most exciting scene, 
 but no one need fear the undertaking, as fatal accidents 
 have been comparatively unknown. The rapid we now 
 enter is known as the " Long Sault," so called from its 
 extent, it being a continuous rapid of nine miles, divided 
 in the centre by an island. The usual passage for steam- 
 
a ■■; 
 
 
 III 
 
 S f 
 
 •JO 
 
 AI.I.UoLMi UOITK AMt I'ANdltAMIc (JIJIDK 
 
 ers isontlu- south sulc. The channel on tl 
 was fornu'i-Iy considered unsafe ami d: 
 
 ic north siMc 
 
 niations have Iiccn niad 
 
 n:;cr(vus ; iwain- 
 
 c, and it is now di 
 
 ilcscendcd w ith 
 sale!)'. The passa.L^c in tiic soutlicrn channel is very 
 'lan-ow . and such is the velocity of the current that a 
 i-att, it is said, will drift nine miles in forty minutes. 
 
 The (irst passa-e made by a steamer down these rapids 
 was ah.Hit 1S40, and then under the -uidance of a cele- 
 brated Indian named Tironhiaiiere. 
 
 'I'lic rapids o( the " Lon.^r Saull" rush alonn- at the 
 rate of sometliint;- like twenty miles an hour. When the 
 vessel enters within their influence, the steam is shut off, 
 and she is carried onward by the force of the stream' 
 alone. The sur-iiinr wafers present all the an<^ry ap- 
 pearance of the ocean in a storm ; the noble boat strains 
 and labors; but unlike the ordinary pitching and tossintr 
 at sea, this goin<,- liown hill by water produces a hitrhl^ 
 novel sensation, and is. in fact, a service of some daiu,rer, 
 the imminence of which is enhanced to the imaginat'ion 
 by the tremendous roar of the headlong boiling current, 
 (ireat nerve, force and precision are here reciuired in' 
 piloting, so as to keep the vessels head straight with the 
 course of the rapid ; for if she diverged in the least, pre- 
 senting her head to the current, or " broaching to," as 
 the nautical phrase is, she would he instantly capsized 
 and submerged. Mence the necessity for enormous power 
 over her rudder. 
 
 I 
 
Illi- 
 cit li 
 cry 
 It .1 
 
 )ias 
 
 .Mo- 
 
 tile 
 the 
 off, 
 un 
 ip- 
 ins 
 
 'Iff 
 ily 
 
 cr, 
 
 on 
 It. 
 ii> 
 lie 
 
 0- 
 
 is 
 
 cr 
 
al 
 
 92 
 
 In 
 
 ALL-KOUiNl) IJOITK AND TANoUAMI 
 
 C (il'IDM 
 
 VVl 
 
 1011 dcsaMuiinnr the rapids a tiller is attached to the 
 niddcr itsoir, so that tlic tiller can l)c manned as well as 
 the wlicel. Some iilea may be entertaine<l of the force 
 necessary to keep the vessel steady while descending a 
 rapid, when it rcHiuires four men at the wheel and twti at 
 the tiller to ensure safe steering. 
 
 A canal u miles long, with seven locks, offers safe 
 passat^e for such a craft as dare not try the "shoot,'' 
 also permiltintr the passage of steamers on the ujjwar'd 
 trip. '1 jicre are also four similar canals at otiier points. 
 Fnit our vessel is already feeling the full power of the 
 stream, and after the nrst startling thrill of this sliiiing 
 down a water step comes ;i feeling of intense excitement 
 which never abates during the lialf hour's run of the 
 Long Sault. Like the first experience of the arrowy 
 rush of the toboggan, running the rapids of the St. Law- 
 rence produces a sensation that cannot be described, but 
 must be felt to be understood. 
 
 At the head of these rapids is a village of some 500 
 inhabitants, and known as Dickinson's Landing. 
 
 At the eastern entrance end of the Cornwall Canal, 
 which all craft must use on the ascending journey, since 
 none could liope to stem the Long Sault, stands the 
 town of Cornwall, wliich, in recent years, has developed 
 into a manufacturing centre,— its enormous blanket-foc- 
 tory and cotton-mil 1 being the conspicuous features of 
 the place. Near it runs the " Province Line," and we 
 pass out of Eastern Ontario into Quebec. Near the 
 same point, also, the boundary line, which divides 
 Canada from the United States, recedes from the St. 
 Xawrence. and the course of the River is hereafter in Her 
 
ALIi-UOUNl) UoUTK AND rANOUAMIC (H'lDK, 
 
 03- 
 
 Majesty's Dominion. lk)th sides of tin,- river, gradually 
 open into the wide expansion of Lake St. Francis, 
 prettily diversified with woods dud farms, while bosky 
 islands at intervals afford a welcome retreat for campers, 
 and tents and light summer residences gleam plea- 
 santly under the trees by the river side. On the left 
 bank wc pass the little town of Lancaster. ( )n tiie right 
 shore are .St. Regis and Dundee, on Canadian territory, 
 with l''ort Covington and Salmon River, contiguous in 
 the Uniteil States. 
 
 The tourist will observe from the deck of the steamer 
 the old church of St. Regis built about the year 1700 
 lifting its tin roof above its neighboring houses. The 
 bell hanging in this church is associated with a deed of 
 genuine Indian revenge. On its way from I*" ranee it 
 was captured by an I'jiglish cruiser, and taken into 
 Salem, Massachusetts, where it was sold to the church at 
 Deerfield, in the same State. The Indians hearing of the 
 destination of their bell set out for D-jerfield, attacked the 
 town, killed forty-seven of the inhabitants, and took 
 one hundred and twelve captives, " among whom were 
 the pastor and his family." The bell was then taken 
 down and conveyed to St Regis, where it now hangs. 
 
 COTE A U DU LAC 
 
 is a small village situated at the foot of Lake St. Francis. 
 The name, as well as the style of the buildings, denotes 
 its French origin. Just below the village are Coteau 
 Rapids, which are about 2 miles in extent and very 
 rapid. 
 
u 
 
 ALL-ROUND ItOUTK AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 In tlic expedition of Gen. Amherst (1759), a detach- 
 ment of" three lumdred men, that were scirt to attack- 
 Montreal, was lost in the rapids near this place. The pas- 
 sage through these rapids is very exciting. After leaving 
 Coteaii, the Steamer passes under a magnificent new iron 
 bridge constructed across the River by the Canada Atlan- 
 tic Ry., and i }< miles in length. 
 
 BEAUHARNOIS 
 
 is a small village at the foot of the Cascades, on the right 
 bank of the river. On the north bank, a branch of the 
 Ottawa enters into the St. Lawrence. 
 
 itffl 
 
 I 
 
 CEDAR RAPIDS. 
 
 At first sight this rapid has the appearance of the 
 ordinar}- rapids ; but once the steamer has entered it, 
 the turbulent water and pitching about renders the pas- 
 sage very exciting. There is also a peculiar motion of 
 the vessel, which seems like settling down, as she glides 
 from one ledge to another. A short distance below this 
 we enter the 
 
 SPLIT ROCK, 
 
 so called from its enormous boulders at the entrance. 
 A person unacquainted with the navigation of these 
 rapids will almost involuntarily hold his breath until this 
 ledge, which is distinctly seen from the deck of the steam- 
 er, is passed. At one time the vessel seems to be run- 
 ning directly upon it, and you almost feel certain that 
 she will strike, but a skillful hand is at the helm, and in 
 
ALL-KOUNI) HOUTr, AMi I'ANoUAMlU (;l:I)1;. Do 
 
 i h 
 

 MA 
 
 m 
 
 ALL-UOL'NI) IIOUTE AND PANORAMIC (JI.'IUE. 
 
 *n instant more it is passed in safety. We now come to 
 itiL iufcl of this series of rapids, cai, d the 
 
 CASCADI-: RAI'IDS. 
 
 This is a very fine rapid. It is remarkable on account 
 ol its numerous white crests foaming on top of the dark- 
 ish waters, through which the vessel passes ; and as the 
 shortness of the waves has the effect of pitching the 
 steamer as if at sea, the sensation is very enjoyable. 
 After passing the Cascade, the river again widens into a 
 lake called Lake St. Louis, where the dark waters of the 
 Ottawa by one of 'ts branches join the St. Lawrence. 
 This series of four rapics are eleven miles in extent, and 
 have a descent of eighty-two and one-half feet. On this 
 lake the tourist from the deck of the steamer has a mas- 
 nificent view of the Montreal Mountain about thirty 
 miles distant. After passing through this lake, 
 
 LACHINE 
 
 is reached. It is nine mile;, from Montreal, with which 
 it is connected by railroad. It derives its name from the 
 first settlers thinking, when they reached this point, that 
 they had discovered the passage which would lead them 
 to China. The Lachine Rapids begin just below the 
 village. On the opposite side stands 
 
 CAUGHNAWAGA, 
 
 an Indian village lying on the south bank of the river 
 nea*- th<' entrance to the Lachine Rapids, and deriving 
 its name . <r: the converted Indians, who were called 
 
 
 W 
 ii 
 
I , 
 
r 
 
 11 
 
 98 
 
 ALL-KOLMD KOUl K AM» I'ANOIJAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 Caughnaii'aga, or praying Indians. Shortly after leaving 
 this Indian village, the tourist can contemplate the new, 
 magnificent bridge recently constructed by the Canadian 
 Pacific Railway, being the second span over the mighty 
 St. Lawrence we pass. It is built on the most recent 
 scientific principles, and resembles the great International 
 Railway Bridge at Niagara. The steamer now glides 
 down the rapid stream with increasing swiftness, which 
 clearly denotes that a formidable rapid is ahead. Still- 
 ness reigns on board ; away goes the steamer, driven by 
 an irresistible current, which soon carries her to the first 
 pitch of the 
 
 LACHINE RAPIDS. 
 
 The next and last great obstacle is just ahead — the 
 far-famed Lachine Rapids. An Indian pilot takes 
 charge of the steamer of Lachine, in ivhose practised 
 hands the vessel can laugh at the wrath of the torrent, 
 .and immediately after passing the stately steel bridge 
 of the Canadian Pacific Railway (referred to elsewhere) 
 the first powerful influence is felt of the current that 
 plunges in foamy speed down the incline below. One 
 of the best features of this route is that excitement stead- 
 ily increases with the journey until it culminates with 
 the exhilarating dashdown the wild turmoil ofLachine's 
 angry water. Though apparently exceedingly danger- 
 ous, the passage is in reality perfectly safe, but the 
 suggestion of peril adds an additional zest to the under- 
 taking. The pilot is an interesting study as the steamer 
 begins the flying race. He stands with all an 
 Indian's stoical indifterence, his strong hands grasping 
 
 r; 
 
ALL-ROUXD KOUTK AND I'.VXOIUMIC GU DE. 99 
 
 the Wheel and his keen eyes reading the tumult of waters 
 and tracing the path as easily as you or I might read a 
 book. Not a rap cares he for the huge rocks that frown 
 above the flood nor their fellows ambushed behind the 
 snowy toam. He has iron nerve and the confidence 
 born of long practice and a perfect knowledge of the 
 channel, and he attaches but slight importance to the task 
 of guiding the vessel to the calm of quiet water below 
 What to the tourist is a blood-stirring, intensely interest ' 
 ing adventure is to him merely a matter of business • 
 and so you dart down the daring rush, feeling a joyous 
 excitement, and wishing the "shoot - were m.ny miles 
 longer, while the pilot merely holds the boat to her 
 course till the dash is ended, and he and you are a-ain 
 in smooth water and the rapids are IcTt behind The 
 actual running of the Lachine rapids is alone well worth 
 the trip, for a like experience cannot be enjoyed else- 
 where ; it is a popular amusement witli citizens of Mon 
 treal. The sensation which tingles through every nerve 
 as one stands on a steamer pitching down an inclined 
 plane of water at the rate of twenty miles an hour is 
 such a one as would liave given a "distinct pulsation " 
 to Charles Matthews' blase hero in " Used Up." This 
 is how the experience has been described : 
 
 " Suddenly a scene of wild confusion bursts upon the 
 eye ; waves are lashed into spray and into breakers of a 
 thousand forms by the submerged rock which they are 
 dashed against in the headlong impetuosity of the river 
 Whirlpools, a storm-lashed sea, mingle their sublimity in 
 
lOU 
 
 ALL-UOrNll lUUITK AND rAN<iUAMlC GIUDK, 
 
 liAl'TISTL, AN IXriAN I'lLOI', STKI'RINC. A STEAMER 
 DOWN THE KAI'IDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 ;i sini;Ic rapid. Now passing- with lightning speed within 
 a few yards of rocks which, did the vessel but touch 
 them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the 
 crash could sound upon the ear. Did she even diverge 
 in the least from htr course — if her head were not kept 
 straight with the course of the rapid — she would in- 
 stantly be submerged and rolled over and over. Ere we 
 can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the 
 walls of waves and foam like a bird, and a second 
 
ALL-'tOU.Vl) liOUTE AND I'.VNOllWIKJ GUlDK. 
 
 101 
 
 •■l 
 
 afterwards you arc floating- on the calm unruffled boso;n 
 of the river below." 
 
 But though this trip is full of pleasant excitement, it 
 is practically attended with no dan<,fer. An experienced 
 Indian pilot, who knows each rock and almost every 
 wave, has guided the steamers which make the " shoot " 
 for years, and no accident of any consecjuence has ever 
 happened, nor has a single life been lost in this beautiful 
 but dangerous spot. 
 
 " And wv have piissed the tenilile Lnchinr, 
 
 Have fflt a fearless tremor through the soul 
 As the huge waves upreared their crests of green, 
 Holdini,' our feathery bark in their control 
 As a strong eagle holds an oriole," 
 
 But we speedily forget the i)erils as we pass the beau- 
 tiful wooded shore of Nun's Island, with its shady green 
 pastures, and come upon the royal-looking city. On 
 the opposite shore, behind the villages of Laprairie and 
 Longueuil, rise the isolated mountains of Montarvillc, 
 Rougemont, Shefiford, and the nearer Bekeil. As we 
 near Victoria Bridge it seems impossible that the steamer 
 can pass under, and the question is sometimes asked 
 whether there is any arrangement for lowering the fun- 
 nels, Tlie steamer glides along ; we look up and see 
 our mistake, and then look down upon the innocent 
 questioner. 
 
 The river itself is so fascinating in its strength of 
 crystal purity, so overpowering in vastness and might, 
 that it would dwarf an ordinary city. It does dwarf 
 every other place along its banks — Quebec alone except- 
 ed. It bears, lightly as a garland, the chain of the great 
 
\r I 
 
 102 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 bridge that binds its opposite shores with multiplied 
 links of massive granite. The green slopes of St. Helen's 
 Island resting like a leaf on the water, the forest of 
 masts and red and white funnels, the old-fashioned hay 
 and wood barges, the long line of solidly built revetment 
 wall, the mnjestic dome of the Honsecours Market, the 
 twin towers of Notre Dame, palatial ware-houses, graceful 
 spires sown thick as a field, and the broad shoulders of 
 Mount Royal uplifted in the background, make up a 
 picture that artist, merchant or patriot — each for his 
 own reason — may well delight to look upon. 
 
 -:, _.,tCw^f^^ 
 
 _ Li: 
 
 •—- 
 
 A (iLIMI'Si; OV ini- IIAIillllli, MDMliHAr. 
 
 
» 
 
 1 s 
 of 
 
 ly 
 
 nt 
 le 
 ul 
 of 
 a 
 lis 
 
 ;S\\lt"/' ■ ( 
 
 We take a wide sweep in 
 front of the city, and come 
 into port near the island of 
 St. Helen's, past great hulls 
 of ocean steamers and full- 
 rigged ships, where the old 
 weather-stained Bonsecours 
 Market, and still older Bon- 
 sccours Church, bid us wel- 
 come to Montreal. The 
 steamer rounds up to the 
 Ccmmissioncrs' wharf, to 
 dischaige its Quebec pas- 
 sengers into the huge palace 
 floating alongside,and then 
 continues its way to the 
 "Canal Basin" where we all 
 must leave her. 
 
 i 
 
1<)4 
 
 ALL ROUND HOUTK AND I'ANOltA.MlC GUIDK. 
 
 THE TRIP FROM MONTREAL TO OTTAWA 
 
 is one which no tourist should nii>s. It can be made by 
 rail or river, and by either it is a delightful experience. 
 By the Canadian Pacific Railway, which follows the 
 northern bank of the Ottawa, it is a four hours' run up 
 the be .utiful Ottawa valle\' throiij^h the iiarrow well- 
 tilled farms characteristic of the Province of Ouebcc. 
 A succession of thrifty towns an:l \illages, some of which 
 are picturesquely situated summer resorts, are pass^'d 
 and with high hills forming the distant horizon lo 
 the right and the broad waters of the Ottawa, of 
 which frequent views are obtained, there are unend- 
 ing scenes of beauty which charm the senses of the 
 lovers of nature. At the French city of Hull, the line 
 swings across the river just above the famed Chaudiere 
 Falls, of which an excellent view is had from the train, 
 and Ottawa is reached. The return trip can be made 
 by boat ; but if it is decided to re\erse this order by se- 
 curing tickets at Montreal by the C^tawa River Naviga- 
 tion Co., we take the train which leaves the Bonaven- 
 ture Depot at 8 in the morning, and stepping on board 
 the steamer " Sovereign," Cai-lain H, W. Shepherd, sail 
 up the river. By this last route we have a bettt r oppor- 
 tunity of seeing the beautiiul scenery of the St. Lawrence 
 and Ottawa Rivers, where they first meet. It is a bright 
 morning, and the sun glances slantingly along the 
 majestic waters, tinging with golden light the tips of the 
 wavelets as they rise, one after the other, to greet his 
 rays. A faint mist, like a delicate veil, spreads over the 
 bosom of the river, on which one or two islets repose, as 
 
ALL-ROUND KOUTK AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 105 
 
 childhood sleeps on its mother's bosom, yet it does not 
 conceal the enchanting beauty of the scene, but adds 
 grace and loveliness to the charms which it vainly strives 
 to hide. It is soon dissolved, and the light breeze which 
 has sprung up carries it all away. 
 
 Away \vego, stemming the current, until in due time 
 we reach Ste. Anne's, where are a succession of rapids 
 which we avoid by going through a lock. More islets 
 are here, round which the Ottawa bubbles andstiuggles 
 in its course, while the pretty village of Ste. Anne's re- 
 poses in quiet beauty upon the bank. This village is 
 considered the starting point for the Ottawa River by 
 all orthodox voyageurs, as the last church on the island 
 of Montreal is situated here, and is, moreover, dedicated 
 to their tutelary saint, from whom also the village takes 
 its name. Emerging from the canal, again we enter the 
 Ottawa, having left the St. Lawrence far astern, and come 
 to Sherringham Park, situated on He Perrot, opposite 
 the lower part of Ste. Anne's,— a beautiful spot, which 
 has become a most popular excursion ground, and is 
 admirably laid out and equipped for the purpose; after 
 sailing about two miles, we find the shores recede on 
 either hand to about 8 miles wide, and the recession con- 
 tinues for a distance often miles, for we are in the Lake 
 of Two Mountains, so called from two mountains on the 
 north side rising four to five hundred feet from the water. 
 The river divides here into four branches ; that which 
 we have just come up, another which diverges towards 
 the northeast, and forms the western boundary of the 
 Island of Montreal ; the third called the Dutchman's 
 Chenal ; and the fourth passing Vaudreuil around He 
 
106 ALL-KOUND ROUTE AND PAiNORAMIO GUIDE. 
 
 Pen-ot. There is the He Jesus, and beside it Pigeon 
 Island, on which are the ruins of an Indian village. 
 For the purpose of guarding against the incursions'of 
 the Indians, the French built a fort on the Island of 
 Montreal, opposite to the village, but both village and 
 fort have now fallen into decay, and lar.^a^ trees are 
 growing inside the ruined walls of the latter. 
 
 The beautiful summer residence of the late Sir John 
 Caldwell Abbott, ex-Premier of Canada, is on this pro- 
 perty, and several prominent citizens of Montreal have 
 built charming villas along the shore of the Lake at this 
 point. A few miles further on we arrive at a fine wharf 
 named Oka, situated in the Indian Village of the Two 
 Mountains. This village is inhabited by the remnant 
 of two tribes, the Iroquois and Algonquins, as the village 
 ofCaughnawaga, opposite to Lachinc, is by a remnant 
 of the Iroquois. A Roman Catholic church divides the 
 settlements, as the people are all baptized into that 
 church. Three or four chapels stand on the mountain 
 side. The highest peak of the mountain is called Cal- 
 vary, and on certain religious fetes of the church it is 
 frequented by both whites and Indians. On one of the 
 hills at Oka is visible from the steamer the Monastery 
 of " La Trappe," which has of late years being erected 
 there. The monks of the monastery wear the peculiar 
 dress of the Order. They are agriculturists, and have 
 purchased a large estate near Oka, which they are 
 rapidly transporting into the garden-like scenery of Old 
 France. The rules of" La Trappe " are very strict, only 
 male visitors being admitted into the monastery; ladies 
 are stopped at the threshold. The monks are not al- 
 

 ALL-ROUND llOUTE AND PANOIIAMIC GUIDK. 107 
 
 lowed to converse with one another. They rise at z 
 a.m., and breakfast shortly afterwards in silence, and 
 this meal is the one meal of the day ; they retire to rest 
 after prayers at sunset. Now we stop at the villages of 
 Como and Hudson. Both these places are the resort of 
 some of our Montreal friends, who pass the summer 
 months therewith their fimilies. At the head of the 
 Lake of the Two Mountains the banks contract, so that 
 the river is not more than half a mile in width, and it con- 
 tinues thus narrow for about a mile, when there is again, 
 an expansion for the length of nine miles, forming the 
 Upper Lakeof the Two Mountains. On the souUiern 
 banks is the mountain Rigaud, where there is also a 
 settlement of the same name. The river a^^ain contracts 
 to the breadth of half a mile, and continues, sometimes 
 broader, sometimes as narrow, until we reach Carillon. 
 Great improvements nave been made at this place by the 
 Railway Company, by building new wharves and sta- 
 tion houses, and here again the navigation is impeded by 
 rapids. A railroad overcomes the distance between the 
 two stretches of navigable water, and by it we arrive at 
 Grenville, whence we proceed by the new steamer " Em- 
 press" (Captain Bowie) to L'Orignal, seven miles distant. 
 About eight miles from L'(3rignal, situated in the midst 
 of a most chanuing country, is the celebrated Caledonia 
 Mineral Springs. Leaving L'Ongnal, after a few plea- 
 sant hours' sail, we arrive at 
 
 m 
 

 108 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND I'ANOIiAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 OTTAWA. 
 
 Otta\v.\ was selected 
 by Her Majesty as the 
 Capital of the Domi- 
 nion, and the Govern- 
 ment buildini^s have 
 consequently been 
 erected there. The Par- 
 liament Buildings, with 
 the Departmental offi- 
 ces, occujjy thne sides 
 of a square on a bluff of ground called Barrack Hill, over- 
 looking the river. They contain two Legislative Halls 
 one for the Senate and the other for the House of Com- 
 mons, both being the same size as those provided in 
 the English Houses of Parliament for the Lords c/id 
 Commons, and like their originals very handsomely 
 decorated and conveniently furnished. The grounds in 
 front of the building are handsomely laid out. A large 
 library is also provided, which at present contains over 
 155,000 volumes. The buildings are designed in the 
 Italian-Gothic style, and constructed of stone found in 
 the neighborhood. When it is stated that the cost was 
 $3,000,000, and the position almost unique, the tourist 
 ought not to lose the opportunity of seeing them, as 
 they alone are quite worth the delay which must neces- 
 sarily be devoted to the sight. The rest of the city 
 (which is of course increasing much, and keeps pace 
 with h'^r sister cities) is very handsomely and substan- 
 tially built. Sparks street, the scene of the assassination 
 
Advertisements. 
 
 ]C Ottawa River HaV. fn ^'"^yBoyal MailSteamera 
 
 lir.i \vi;kn 
 Sflo.wli.lIn,„un,ISteWI'ala..eSi™,Mor. 
 
 "SOVERE/GN" eg "EMPRESS" 
 
 ^^ SHOOTING UACHINE RAPJOS, 
 
 aiii tocoiiiit'ct with Stc.ainor at t .,„i • '^y*" A. 
 
 iii:ai> DFJ-HK : d %*/ o "' __ 
 
 Common Street, MONTREAL. "" ""^PKEkd, Jr., 
 
 Manager, 
 
 Ml 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 ■1 
 
 
 IHHt l^ 
 
 1 
 
 ^^H'll 
 
 
 ,^■1 
 
 ' 
 
 ,^U 
 
 
 iH 
 

 Advertisements. 
 
 The Ottawa River Hav. fn ^^^y^'^. ^^^'^ steamers 
 
 IIKIWKBN 
 
 AM) CALIilMiMA SI'HI.\t;s ... 
 
 Si-loiidid Iron iinil Sle,-I I'„la.f St.,' ih 
 
 Sovereign " t£ " Empress " 
 
 , ,. TO MONTREAL. 
 
 Le,.vM„ Qu.P„ s U ,uu-l, OTTAWA, f-r MomUvmI |,bily ex..e,,l SundnyJ at T.UO u.,a. 
 
 -=— SHOOTING MACHINE RAPIDS. 
 
 „, _ _ TO OTTAWA. 
 
 ati'^i *''¥lCKETSr«t"l"i;uU^;[,'^'^i;;;;t ''^^7^ l-avln. 0.T.R. Depot. Montreal. 
 184 St. 'i^^^C^^.^;;^]^^^^^^-!^^ 143 and 
 
 lIKAIl ilFl'K i: 
 
 88 Common Street, MONTREAL. 
 
 R. W SurnuiTDrk •.. 
 
 Manager. 
 
 
 '■**^****»»»»***»JSl« 
 
I! ^m^n 
 
i, . Ctvj-;!!;^,- ' ,- : -H s.,;jj^f^j4y, . j(j: 
 
11^ 
 
 riEij 
 
 Advertisements. 
 
 . 341X 
 
 ^%^ W. H. STEWART 
 
 Fop hiKh g^Pade footwear in ^^ * ^ f 
 
 The l^inesf (American 
 
 ond Canadian Goods. 
 
 Oi'.r Gentlemen's Han.l-sewed Boots are ev- 
 
 in Stock.'" ' •'""' '' ' ^" ^^^*^« ^it 
 
 n«?/^®'~^' "''"' '■■•' L«'l'^«' fi"e shoes, 
 CHILDREN'S Goods a specialty, 
 
 fHICES MODERATE 
 
 ^V. H. STEV^ART 
 2293 Sf. Cafherrnfi St., 
 
 __ ^^ONTREAI,, Can. fl| 
 
 25 pep cent, saving of Lemon. 
 
 'Rapid" CORK SCREWS 
 
 AND REPAIRS FOR BOTH. 
 
 Door Cecils ' - - 
 
 WITH ASSORTED ARTISTIC 
 
 iSronzG Trimmings, 
 Table and Pocl^e* Cuilerv. 
 
 SPECIAL VALUE, 
 
 Truif and Card 
 
 - ' - Presses, etc. 
 
 L- J. fl. SURVEYER, 
 
 6 St, Lawrence Street, 
 
 '^>''^'« MONTREAL. 
 
 AT 
 
 J. 
 
>Cix 
 
 ^RT 
 
 ALL-ROUND KOUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 109 
 
 zcrs 
 
 IC 
 
 immgs, 
 2rv. 
 
 c{c. 
 
 EVER, 
 
 at, 
 
 TREAL. 
 
 of the late Hon. T. D'Arcy McGee, is close to the Par- 
 liament buildings. 
 
 The Rideau Canal (which connects the Ottawa River 
 with Lake Ontario) divides the city near the Parliament 
 Buildings. This canal is excavated at the base of a 
 ravine over 150 feet below the roadway. The upper 
 and lowci portions of the city are connected by two 
 
 1'AIii,i.\mi:ni' iu ii.iunos. 
 
 bridges : one known as the Sappers' ]5ridge ; the other 
 being a magnificent iron bridge erected by the Corpora- 
 tion, and which leads to the broad avenue on which the 
 Parliament Buildings stand. The Rideau Canal here 
 falls into the Ottawa after pn-sing a series of eight mas- 
 sive stone locks. 
 
 Amongst the chief attractions in the neighborhood of 
 
 I if*' 
 
3.10 
 
 ALL-ROUND KOUTK AND PANOIUMIC GUIDE 
 
 Ottawa is the ChaudicreF-ilic o -j 
 
 f lliej are immediateiy nbove the chu „ •» 
 
 western extremity. The width of the .^ea or ft f' ' 
 hundred feet, while its depth is forty £^1 " '""■ 
 ing:. foaming character ofth™ 111 ^^^"^' '"'''" 
 
 ."-e. On the northern sideiihf::::^,:;::'^:;;: 
 
 '''^"^8.^:^ 
 
 rAin.i.vMK.NT iiun.Dixfis 
 
 Chaudiire, and here the waters, after their leap seem to 
 
 ?rr:;ed°"r ^'r^^^" p--^^- ^^y «h.-c.rt =; " 
 
 A lie iverties, half a mile bwer down nr ^ 
 existence of such a passage is a mer atte ^ j f 
 
 o rt'tt:;:"i':r ""^^'"''^ -^ .-lojis^rd- 
 
 mterested, to determine. These falls are crossed 
 
ALL-ROUND HOUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. Hi 
 
 by a fine suspension bridge, which leads to the thriving 
 city of Hull on the opposite shore. Before leaving 
 Ottawa, we ought to pay a visit to one of the timber 
 slides, which are tolerably frequent in the upper river 
 One ,s erected on the northern bank, and we will here 
 tarry for a moment whilst we watch the fate of one of 
 those hugh rafts of hewn wood down its headlong rush 
 These water-shoots are erected for the purpose of getting 
 the fallen trees from the higher level down to the river 
 at the smallest possible cost, and, whenever water can 
 be obtained in sufficient quantity, this has been done 
 Where the descent is very steep, these "shoots" are 
 broken up at stated intervals into long straight runs, in 
 order to destroy the impetus which the rafts would 
 naturally acquire. The descent on one of the rafts down 
 the timber slide is a thing only to be attemped by those 
 who possess strong and steady nerves. To sav that 
 there ,s much danger in such an excursion would be to 
 exaggerate the risk, while to say that there is none 
 would be as far from the truth. An application to the 
 
 boss of a gang of raftsmen would without difficulty 
 obta.n the privilege of a ride down. The population of 
 Ottawa IS about 50,000. 
 
 MONTREAL, 
 
 the commercial Metropolis of the Dominion of Canada 
 IS situated upon the south shore of an island (bearing the 
 same name) and at the base ofa beautiful eminence 
 known as Mount Royal, from which both the city and 
 IS lard derive their name. Its population is. with suburbs, 
 about 300.000. The island is about thirty miles long 
 
 J 
 
112 ALL-ROUND KOUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 and ten broad, and is formed by the river Ottawa de- 
 bouching into the St. Lawrence at its western and east- 
 ern extremities — the former near St. Anne's, the latter 
 at Bout del'Isle. It is famed for the fertility of its soil, 
 and is frequently called the " Garden of Canada." The 
 site ofthe city was first visited by Jacques Cartier in 1535, 
 and at that time he found a village of Indians situated 
 near the foot of the Mountain. He landed a short dis- 
 tance below the city, at a point still known by the name 
 of the Indian village, " Hochelaga." When he reached 
 the top ot the mountain, to which he was guided by the 
 Indian Chief" Donnacona," he was so struck by the mag- 
 nificent outlook, that he named it in honor of his master 
 *' the Royal Mount." Champlain also visited the site 
 in 161 1, but the village, with its inhabitants, had been 
 swept away, probably by some hostile tribe. A few 
 years ago a large quantit}' of skeletons and pottery was 
 discovered under buildings on the site of this village. 
 The first settlement was made by the French in 1642. 
 In its early history the city was repeatedly attacked by 
 the Indians, and in 1684 a wooden wall erected for de- 
 fence. This was replaced in 1722 by a massive stone 
 wall with redoubts and bastions. In 1759, when Can- 
 ada was conquered by the British, Montreal had a 
 population of 4,000 souls. The streets were narrow and 
 the houses low. Some of these buildings are still stand- 
 ing, and a walk through the two or three streets still re- 
 taining these primitive buildings and narrow paths 
 strongly reminds us of the quaint old towns of Rouen, 
 Caen, and others in Normandy. At the date named, the 
 town was divided into upper and lower town : the upper 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 113 
 
 part then being the level of the present Court House 
 In the lower town the merchants and men of business' 
 chiefly resided, and here also were the place of arms 
 the royal magazines and the Nunnery Hospital The 
 principal buildings were in the upper town, such as the 
 palace of the Governor, the houses of the chief officers 
 the Convent of the Recollets, the Jesuit Church and 
 Seminary, the Free School and the Parish Church In 
 1775, the city was taken by the American forces under 
 Montgomery. The growth of the city has been exceed- 
 ingly rapid, and the view, as seen on our approach by 
 steamboat, with Mount Royal for a background, covered 
 with beautiful villas, interspersed here and there with 
 tall spires, is majestic, and for beauty almost unrivalled 
 
 MOSTItE.VL I-Ito.^r TUK HAKIIOR. 
 
 The river frontage is almost three miles in len-th ex 
 tending from the Victoria Bridge to the village of Hoche 
 laga. For upwards of a mile it has an excellent stone 
 retaining wall, from the entrance to the Lachine Canal 
 to below the Bonsecours Market, which, with its glitter- 
 
 I i 1 
 
i 
 
 114 ALL-ROUND HOUTK AND PANORAMKJ GUIDE. 
 
 ing dome, forms one of the most conspicuous objects m 
 the right foreground, and contrasts with the neighboring 
 spire of the Bonsecours Church, one of the oldest 
 churches in Montreal. We think the view from the 
 steamer can scarcely be surpassed, as we sail under the 
 centre tube of the Victoria Bridge, and first view the long 
 array of glittering spires, the lofty towers of the Parish 
 Church of Notre Dame, the well-proportioned tower of 
 the Customs Buildings, and the long unbroken line of 
 cut stone flanking the wharf 
 
 At the beginning of the present country, vessels of more 
 than 300 tons could not ascend to Montreal ; its foreion 
 trade was carried on b>^ small brigs and barques, and 
 the freight and passengers were landed upon a low 
 muddy beach. In 1809 the first steam vessel, called 
 the "Accommodation," built by Hon. John Molson, 
 made atrip to Quebec ; she had berths for about twenty 
 passengers. Now behold the contrast that fifty years of 
 industry, intelligence, enterprise and labor have pro- 
 duced—ocean steamers of over 5.000 tons ; the magni 
 ficent steamers of the Richelieu & Ontario Navigarion 
 Company vieing in splendor and comfort with th^^e far- 
 farmed Hudson River boats ; ships from 700 to 5,000 
 tons, from all parts of the world, lying alongside' the 
 wharves of the harbor, which are not equalled on this 
 continent in point of extent, accommodation, approach 
 and cleanliness. 
 
 It is .easy to trace the two main divisions of the popu- 
 lation of Montreal. Taking St. Lawrence Main street 
 as a dividing line, all that is east of it is French, and all 
 that is west of it is English-speaking. The two nation- 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND rANORAMIC GUIDE. 115 
 
 alities scarcely overlap this conventional barrier, except 
 in a few isolated cases. The extreme eastern portion is 
 designated the Quebec suburbs, and there the native 
 people can be studied as easily as in the rural villages. 
 They are anjioncst, hardworking race. Their thrift is 
 remarkable, and they manage to subsist on one-half of 
 what would hardly satisfy the needs of people of other 
 nationalities. The old folks speak little or no English,, 
 but the rising generation use the two languages indifterl 
 ently, and herein possess a marked advantage over the 
 English, Scotch and Irish. Their poor are cared for hy 
 the St. Vincent de Paul Association, and the Union St.. 
 Jcseph is devoted to the relief of artisans during life and 
 of their families after death. There is a great deal of 
 hoarded wealth among the French inhabitants, but, as a 
 rule, they do not invest it freely. 
 
 The western pa.t of the cit)- is English-speaking 
 Numerically, the English portion is not so great ns the 
 Scotch. Tn perhaps no section of the Colonies have 
 Englishmen and Scotchmen made more of their oppor- 
 tunities than in Montreal. 
 
 Sherbrooke street is scarcely surpassed b\- the Fifth 
 Avenue of New York in the magnificence of its build- 
 ings. In winter the equipages present a most attractive 
 spectacle. In this respect only St. Petersburg can claim 
 precedence over Montreal. 
 
 The south-western portion of the city is occupied 
 almost exclusively by the Irish. It is called Griffintown 
 Griffintown comprises a little world within itself— shops,' 
 factories, schools, academies, churches and asylums. 
 
llfi 
 
 Ar.L-RCUm, KOUTE AM, PAN'ORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 .he"ll° r '^' ""• '^ '■^"""■-'' f- "» apple.- 
 vma,e„ and HC, fan,.. /,. T '. Jh' t;':,:'';:,'.'.^ 
 
 nvers a. Bout de Tlsle, „„ the ca,„er„ v^e iL ci" 
 
 ON THE MOUNTAIN HRIVK 
 
ii 
 
 ^^3^ ■» 
 
 ALI..J101NU no.-TK AND PAXORAMIO ,>UIDE. 117 
 
 is bm,„tifui|y provided with summer resort,. Lachine 
 
 Trtr ";i:.r'' fT" 'T°" '"^ °PP-'"Hr "r 
 
 bland .'rki'!^ ■ " " *'°"'""'" P""^ -" an 
 "S ana I ark. l|,c drive round the former is a fivorif^ 
 
 a e^oon recreation for citizens and visitors. ,t a e : 
 
 by curves to the highest altitude, whence a ma^n fice 
 
 anorama ,s outspread. The Mountain I'ark fs ,il 
 
 .He.nidd,eoftheriver,a„:;:i!nrcrot;':: 
 arrow .Montrea nosspsse^ t r^I^^ ^ 
 
 excelled. The Island wa.s purchased by the Imnerf.I 
 Government for rnHftary p.,,osc.s. and^.n-acl"' ? 
 
 . ^^^":Le!r^-.^;'^^-p-^^'sn-on.th: 
 
 i'X*„' 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^^^ ua ersedge, and thusafifbrds a capitahnili- 
 ^^^^'^^. '^•■>' '^"-^'-^ - .ame feature makes 
 
 ;^; ' #^ :i^ n^ '"'^''^^^ *° g'^t ^ ^'evv of the city. 
 
 
 ■"=. 
 
 '^^ 
 
 -»V;" 
 
 '^l^ 
 
 
 
 -~ . »>~j 
 
 •=f'5^. 
 
 -J,; 
 
 'J-\ TlIK .MULWl.U.N, AIO.NTHK.VL. 
 
118 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 The principal streets run parallel with the River 
 That fronting on the harbor is Common street, on which 
 the most striking and interesting buildings are the Cus- 
 tom Houses, at the junction of Commissioners street, 
 ongmally erected by the Royal Insurance Company 
 and m 1870 purchased for $200,000. There are three 
 principal entrances, the most imposing being that by 
 the stone portico facing on Custom House square, and 
 the other '. , being from Commissioners street and 
 Common street, respectively. The Long Room, the 
 chief feature of the building, is 93 feet long, 26 feet wide, 
 and 27 feet high. The ceiling is very beautifully decor- 
 ated, and at one end is placed the Royal Arms The 
 warehousing apartments are exceedingly spacious and 
 commodious. Three elevators, worked by steam power 
 are used in taking packages to the different flats. 
 
 The Harbor Commission consists of members nom- 
 mated partly by the Montreal Board of Trade, the Corn 
 Exchange, and the City Council, and partly by the 
 Dominion Government. Its duties are to watch over 
 the harbor, and generally to supervise all matters con- 
 nected with the commerce of the city other than the 
 collection of custom duties. The Board has also care of 
 the channel of the river as far as Quebec. The Com 
 mission occupies a large cutstone building adjoining the 
 lixamining Warehouse to the west. 
 
 The Inland Revenue Office adjoining it to the east on 
 Custom House Square, recently christened Place Royale. 
 was. in old times, the market-place of the town. 
 
 Ihe Bonsecours market occupies a square on the river 
 front, 500 feet long. It is crowded on the forenoons of 
 
IDE. 
 
 he River. 
 . on which 
 2 the Cus- 
 ers street, 
 Zomp'ci ny, 
 are three 
 ? that by 
 uare, and 
 :reet and 
 oom, the 
 feet wide) 
 ly decer- 
 ns. The 
 ious and 
 m power, 
 s. 
 
 :;rs nom- 
 the Corn 
 by the 
 tch over 
 ers con- 
 than the 
 J care of 
 le Corn- 
 ling the 
 
 east on 
 Royale. 
 
 he river 
 oons of 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANOIUMIC GUIDE. 119 
 
 market days, when the manners of the Aaditaut can be 
 studied to advantage. He has come to the city with 
 his produce, and quiet, patient and courteous he waits 
 for customers. From the market, go up the lane lead- 
 ing to the old-fashioned 
 
 liONSECOURS CHURCH. 
 
 The re/uvos on the walls, the altar, the antique pulpit 
 remind one of a seventee th century parish church in 
 Brittany. We are taken back to the days of Marguerite 
 Bourgeois, who laid the foundation-stone more thtn two 
 centuries ago. 
 
 The next street of importance, running parallel with 
 the river, is 
 
 ST. PAUL STREET, 
 
 which is lined on both sides with substantial, massive 
 buildings. This street is the principal seat of the whole- 
 sale trade of the city. 
 
 A short distance from this street up St. Nicholas St. 
 is the magnificent new Board of Trade Building, in 
 which the Corn Exchange hold their meetings. This 
 fine block fronts, on three streets, and the Canada Ship- 
 ping Company have commodious offices in it, where 
 tickets may be bought for all parts of Europe by their 
 fine steamers. 
 
 NOTRE DAME STREET 
 
 is reached next in order, and besides being the oldest 
 and longest thoroughfare in the place, contains a num- 
 ber of buildings, both handsome and interesting. At 
 
120 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 Z old r . :' ''' '''°'' ^ ^^^'^ ^'-^ structure on 
 
 tsTclt :''''' '"' '■" ^'^ ^^^^ «^'^' -tending 
 
 o St. Catherme street, are the extensive workshops of 
 the Canadian Pacific Railway. ^ 
 
 Going westerly from the Gaol we come to the auainf 
 
 SOHxMEK I'ARK 
 
 where entertainments are given afternoon and evenin.. 
 dur,ng tl,e s„n„„er mon,l,s, by an excellent Ba, d a ded 
 by other attractions of a pleasing character. A ort 
 distance from this is the Daihousie Square station o the 
 Canad,an Pacific Railway from which trains fo Ot° t 
 Quebec, and the Canadian Northwest leave. A shor 
 distance on is the 
 
 CITY HALL, 
 
 a very handsom; building, 4S5 feet in length, and built 
 
 nansard roof and central pavilion. All the municinal 
 offices are in this building. The Recorder's Co" 3 
 Police Oft,ce are in the basement. The city is gover ed 
 by a n.yor, elected annually, and thirty-thrfe Tl er- 
 men. Adjoinmg this is the 
 
 COURT HOUSE, 
 
 bunt after the Grecian style of architecture, and second 
 o ew bu,ld,ngs in thecity. The most str king feature 
 IS Its large lon.c portico. The front is divided tato five 
 compartments, the wings advancing somewhat les than 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PAXORAMn GUIDE, 121 
 
122 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 the centre, sr as to give the fafade an artistic pro- 
 minence, and to free the, building from that mcnotony 
 wh.ch marked the earlier public buildings of the city. 
 Ample proportions are given to the entrances, vesti- 
 bules, corridors and staircases, while spacious halls of 
 justice and public offices are laid out, as well as ante- 
 rooms, private chambers for the judges and chief officers 
 of the court. Th. total length of the building is 300 
 feet; w.dth 125 feet; height. 90 feet. It is built entirely 
 •of Montreal stone. 
 
 These buildings flank 
 
 JACQUES CARTIER SQUARE, 
 
 Which extends to the Steamboac landing, and is orna- 
 mented with a statue of Nelson. On the east side of the 
 .^quare facing the City Hall, are the old buildings 
 formerly known as the Chateau de Ramezay, venerable 
 for the.r historical association, erected in 1722, and 
 which in early days served as a Government House. 
 Here it was that during the occupation of the city by the 
 Americans the celebrated Benjamin Franklin. Charles 
 Carroll, and Samuel Chase, the commissioners of Con- 
 rgress. held their councils of war. and beneath its roof 
 he first printing press ever used in Montreal was set up 
 to print the manifestos. 
 
 Westward from this point the street is lined with 
 
 ZuvuV.''^': ^°"^P'^"°"^ ^^ongst which is the old 
 
 Tmetttt "^^ -^•'- 
 
HOTEb JACQUES CARTIER 
 
 Jacques Oai'tiei' oquarG. 
 
 fills elOMaiit UiUfl is iiio.-t coiilially looatoii (ou IW Sipiiirp of the 
 sinie naiiii'), lii'iim I'l^.v nf ncci's.s f msu ail Railw:iv s'alloim aisil 
 Steamlioat l!ii(liiij/s, 1111(1 to all (if tlic li'-idiiii; VVIioleKalc and Kctali 
 lidii^cs, and lilaccs of anmsciiicm.-i, Jin'ciallv adapted for visitoi-g to 
 Montreal, located in tlie heait of the Citv. Iiiit e>!eai)i?i« tlie noise and 
 (■•miiaioii in«ejiar,.lile from (.iiat tlioroi'glifares. Tlie house in con- 
 diiclcd pn the Anieriean (ilaii. All e|i|ioiiitiiientM in the 'uost Moderu 
 and Sii|i(-iior Style ; Cuisine and Service of the t» sit. 
 
 PRICKS JIIIDERATH. 
 
 THOMAS E. SHALLOW, Proprietor. 
 
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 < ' MaQchcit£r\ 
 
 |^^;J.r,^,„a ., ^^^^ ^___ _^ 
 
 /-'''''I' _X "^ORTLANO TO ' '.IVERVOOI. 
 
 n/v 
 
 
 
 Wvetjj 
 
 ^^^oll, 
 
 
 ; 
 
 Mapoftf), 
 
 itWlSAVtN 
 
 ': '^(j^^ 
 
 
 
 
 III'", 
 
 Ijrono^ 
 
 ^UullMny^burg 
 
 and r^onnectiops. 
 
 iUc 
 
 CbiubcriliuTK i 
 
 
 kOlif 
 
i 
 
 1770-4HE SflRflTOGfl-1895 
 
 5» <K fK 
 
 Red Sprin 
 
 SARArOGA S^^^ 
 
 ~'W'W"^ 
 
 An Alkaline Water— Alterative, Diuretic, Tonic. 
 
 CELEimATKD volt TJtK i'CIiE OF 
 
 Salt Rheum, i 
 
 Erysipelas, 
 
 Inflamed Eyes, 
 
 t 
 
 And all Diseases of the Skin. 
 
 For Bheiimatiam, Rheumatic Gout, and Lumbago. 
 The * *RBn SPRTJ>(G j\r.KA.LT?fB BATHS " are 
 
 unrix^iilled. 
 
 '*JgBJ3 SPRING WATBJg" is said in hattles 
 only, and Shipped Bverywhere. 
 
 RED SPRINGS GOMFANY, 
 
 Saratoga Sprinqs. n. y. 
 
 I .nnTOuinM i Hnu^ sahMti^ 
 
1895 
 
 1 
 
 Tonic. 
 
 )f the Skin. 
 
 o. 
 
 HS " are 
 
 hottles 
 
 lY, 
 
 ALL.ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 123 
 CHURCH OK NOTRL DAME, 
 
 facinc^ Place d'Armes Square, whose towers are seen in 
 
 such bold relief as we approach the city from the water. 
 
 ihis IS the lariTcst completed edifice of the kind in 
 
 Amcnca. except the Cathedral of Mexico ; the found- 
 
 ations of it were laid in ,672, and a church, on the 
 present site, completed in 1678. In ,829 it was opened 
 for public worship. The pile was intended to be repre- 
 
 I- 
 

 Its 
 
 a peal of 
 
 towers are 227 fee n h; ^ ' "' 
 
 eleven bells. /nnV Jo ;S:'"1.^ - 
 
 Bourdon " of the western n! '"'• '^^^ " ^ros 
 
 «ve heaviest bel^ irt Ir^'zt T^' T'' ''' 
 pounds, is sfx feet IM and l " , ^^"-^'"^ -^^'^^^'^ 
 
 eight feet seven inche in d "'°"'^ '"^''^■^"^es 
 
 ■nclics .n diameter. The nave of the 
 
 """"""" ""^"'^^'^'>^MK.,uu,n. 
 
 church, including the snn^f. 
 
 nearly So feet r,r , ,1." "^ 7' 'l "° f-' '•" 'ength, 
 -■de aisles, which n,:;3u ; 3', ,/ "f"' .^"'"-'^ of the 
 -e five feet thiC. The chLl': ;"!"' ''' "'^"^ 
 on extraordinary occasions, when W ° ' "•°°°' ••"'" 
 000 persons. "'"'^' "'^^ used, 15,- 
 
ALL-ROUND itOUTK IsD PANORAMIC GUIDE 125 
 
 further on we rear I. MnC-u c. , "^ ^^"^^^t. . Uittlc 
 
 ex.e„u., f„r:;,': X' XX':*^^ 
 
 steamers to Victorm Q \ PP^"" '''^■^'' 
 
 «'i'. JAMES STREET, 
 
 immediately adjoining the Cn„rt u 
 this streef ;/ ^^ "^ ^^^"^^ ^"d facing 
 
 Churcl,. This is the llH ^ ; ' P'«byterian 
 
 movcd to It' m^H ^°"S'-^^="°" has long since 
 -^'..u Lo moie modern quarters in Qf f-^,-^ ■ 
 
 the upper part of the city ' ^^'''"'"^ ^t- 
 
 On our vvay west along St. James st. we conn t„ qt 
 Lawrence iVIain st., a handsomely built Td w" ^• 
 
 thoroughfare, which is lined with fi'^ne a 1 shop T 
 
 ofaiihousei';dit2r:;:,;,tt'v::j-''',^-- 
 
 house furnishings. A shortl" fa ^ h gher'T^Tth" 
 piano estabh'shment of T F r F.; ? ^ ' ^^^ 
 
 -the musical line can be pLLTd"^':'"?;'"'^''"^ 
 machines, etc. Procured, as well as sewing 
 
126 ALL-nOl'ND ROUTE AND PANOKAMIC 
 
 Gl'IUK. 
 
ALL-ltOUNU KOUTE AND I'ANOnAMIC GfllJF. 127- 
 
 Returning to St. James st., we pass the line new 
 building of La Bamjuc du Pcuplc, and come to the 
 piacf d'Armes square, framed in, as it were, by the 
 Corinthian portico of the Montreal Hank, the Ionic 
 colonnade of the Imperial iUiildin-s, and the towers of 
 Notre Dame. 
 
 On the left hand of the square are the 'ofty sandstone 
 buildings of the Royal Insuranc ; Co.. the Ontario Bank 
 of Ohio sandstone, and the Live.^Mol & [ ondon Insur- 
 ance Company's office. This row a pretty piece of 
 street architecture. On the right hand side is a fine block 
 called Muir's buildings. The fourth flat is occupied by 
 the honorable fraternity of Freemasons. Next is the 
 elegant building, occupied by the Jacques Cartier Bank, 
 m the modern French Renaissance style, and at the 
 corner the peculiar architecture of the New York Life 
 towers up in its handsome dress of brown sandstone. 
 
 The Bank of Montreal, built in the Corinthian style 
 of architecture, has a frontage on St. James street of 
 over 100 feet, and extends to Fortification lane in the 
 rear. The entrance is by a portico, supported by 
 immense columns of cut-stone. These are surmour.cd 
 by a pediment. ^ The .sculpture on the pediment is 52 
 feet long, and weighs o\-er 25 ton , there being over 
 twenty different pieces. The figures are colossal, S feet 
 m height for a human figure, and placed at an elevation 
 of 50 feet from the ground. The arms of the bank, 
 with the motto " Concordia Salus," forms the centre of 
 the group. The sculpture is in Binny stone, executed 
 by Mr. John Steel, R.S.A., Her Majesty's sculptor in 
 Scotland. 
 
 f 
 
128 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 Adjoining is the Post Office, on the corner of St 
 James and St. Franfois Xavier streets, with a frontage 
 of 129 feet. Its depth from St. Francois Xavier street 
 to Montreal Bank building is 95 feet. The hei-ht of 
 the mam building from the ground level to the roof is 
 88 feet, and from the basement to the summit of central 
 tower 120 feet. The building is constructed o^ Mon- 
 treal greystone. The style of architecture is the modern 
 Italian. The Central tower contains a .' .rge illuminated 
 clock, with immense dial plate. It cost about $800 000 
 The Bank of British North America, west of St 
 Frangois Xavier street, is built entirely of cut-stone* 
 and is of the composite style of architecture ; opposite' 
 this IS the establishment of M. Cochenthalcr, the head- 
 quarters for souvenirs and jewellery. 
 
 The Molson's Bank on the corner of St. James and 
 St. Peter streets, is a magnificent building, built entirely 
 of Ohio sandstone. It is three stories in height, with a 
 lofty basement. The style of architecture is the Italian, 
 and is highly ornamented. The main entrance is 
 through a portico supported by highly-polished columns 
 of Scotch granicc. 
 
 The Merchants' Bank of Canada, said to be the finest 
 building for commercial purposes in America, is situated 
 on the corner of St. James and Fv. Peter streets. The 
 general design is of modern Italian character, the base- 
 ment being rusticated and faced with grey Hc-lifax 
 granite, while the rest of the building is built of Ohio 
 sand-stone, with polished Peterhead red granite columns 
 in the principal et ranee. Internally, the arrangement 
 IS somewhat peculiar, the general banking office beino- 
 
» 1 
 
 p. O. Box 1059, 
 
 Did you evep 
 see a 
 
 OUANAf 
 
 Camp Outfits and Aocepsorifs, Pr( 
 Blankets, Camp Clotliiiig. Bureau of In 
 
 The V. i 
 
 11 
 
 
r*«in!TW*ry*JVti»«t 
 
 4 
 
 *. 
 
 in!!i?i 
 

 fl 
 
 P. O. Box 1059, 
 
 Did you ever 
 838 a 
 
 Tklrphonf i';0. 
 The Dw-.? pf SalmoJi ot 
 
 OUAN AN ICil E SL°sr.T. 
 
 •t 
 
 ALSO 
 
 OK 
 
 EXKILTMON 
 
 DAILY AT OUK 
 
 STORE, 
 
 51 Pabrique St 
 
 Camp OHtfits and Accessories. Provisions and Guides to order. Canoes, Touts, 
 nkets Camp Clothing. Bureau of Information aa to liow and where to go Fishing. 
 
 Blankets, Camp 
 
 The V. & B. Sporting Goods Oo„ QUEBEO. 
 
f 
 
 m 
 
 : 1 
 
 RPIIONF t'J'J. 
 
 ALSO 
 
 \'naniche 
 
 AL.MON 
 
 TROUT 
 BASS, 
 tHlNQ 
 
 TACKLE 
 )F THE 
 E.ST GUADE- 
 
 Canoes, Tents, 
 to go Kishing. 
 
 UEBEO. 
 
 P, 
 
 
 i I 
 

 p 
 
 DidI 
 
 IJU'OiiTEK OK 
 
 Diamonds and Fine Watcfjes 
 
 AN,> .HAXtlKAfTrBER OK 
 
 STERLING SILVER SOUVENIRS, 
 
 Spoons. Oyster Forks, Paper Knives, Brooches, 
 Studs, Links, Photo Stands, Etc. 
 265 and 257 
 
 St. James Street, 
 
 MONTREAL. 
 
 JL 
 
 
 sterling Silvor 
 
 Salt Spoon, 
 
 £0c. 
 
 Samples of Spoon Handli; 
 
CD 
 
 ALL-noU^n ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GVWF 199 
 
 S Buntttttcr'" "''f"'" "'"'"""^^ -^''"^■'' 
 
 VICTOItIA Si^l AUK 
 
 fivt'dTr"?'''""" '^'"'^' "^^'^^ ^^^ ^'•-'' -^h dials in 
 hve dififerent parts of the structure. 
 
 .ht '^Zi '^'''^"'' °" ^''^ '°'"" '^^ the handsomest 
 shops ,n the c.ty. chief amongst which are the well- 
 
 equipped fancy goods and souvenir house of R Hem- 
 sley and the fur warehouse of John Henderson & Co 
 At the intersection of McGill street with St. James is 
 the very fine new sandstone building erected by the 
 
 I "^ 
 
130 
 
 AU-noUND ROUTE AND l-AXOnAMIO GUIDK. 
 
 occup,. J b> a large fountain. At the south end of tln^ 
 
 MafetvO^'v""' '"'"""^'" "^n-'tatueo H 
 Wood "^ Ah" y"^"'^'f"™ "'"'"dio of M. Marshall 
 
 beautiful fit "f ^"« "'^'^ "-"g this street is the 
 teaut.ful Bonaventurr ^:at,o„ oi th. Grand Trunk 
 Ry., from which trains on the Central Ver , oTt 
 
 Tn rcltaO R °"' ?"''' ^""""= '■•" ^^^°'™"^ 
 Vi-y.i. L,ential) Rys. also start. 
 
 CRAIG STRI.KT 
 
 ed, and has several places of interest, an.ongst which is 
 
 VIGER SQUARE 
 
 at the junction of St. Denis and Crai^ one of th. fi . 
 squares in Montreal n . . • , ^'^^ ^"^^^ 
 
 fountain s a neat conservatory which supplies the other 
 squares of the city with nianfc tu Hpnestneotf7er 
 
 fully laid out J^ T . ^^ ^''°""^' ^'^ ^'^auti. 
 
 V ^'1'" out, and tne utmost carf> T,iri ^- • • 
 
 J^e^be d,. , „ , -;- -^^^^^^ 
 
 wnicn are ^ ntifu..y cu tivated Farincr if ; t- • 
 (E^^op.)Chureh, Which has the ri;:^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 Chief among the public squares and ^arden^ . f M 
 
 -ofBaihousiestr^il-^srirtanrr^h 
 
AU..R01.XD „o™ AN,, ,.AN-„„,,„o o„,„,. jjj 
 
 French chvs nnH Promenade in the old 
 
 Plains of Abraham th '^ exception of the 
 
 An,e,ica whi h ha's bee;^ " "° °""P'^« "' ^'"""'^ '" 
 armies of so mat Z'T "''^ '™d^-' >>>• >he 
 The Chinm ^^ 5 "' "'"'ons in martial array " 
 
 an f f™ r^: L'":™^"!' '"""' '.'- ^°-' "»•-: 
 
 and Armory of a°„rb: '„ rdtV™, "r^ °"' '"^^ 
 
 The Board of Arts and Matfa ^^ "at^^-P^: 
 nominated by the Prnvinr.-.i n commission 
 
 industrialexhfbi o„rc™;:l^°TT'"' '°^ •'"'''■■"g 
 
 etc. It occupies ^ ^ZM^TT'T'^'r' 
 tr ^hamn H^ lu r "^^^°^^S at the east end of 
 gicJ:Z ''""■ '^'^^'y "-"Pied by theGeolo- 
 
 The building situated on the corner r.rr- • 
 toria square is one of the file tT„ le iy^'Vh TT 
 .s the medi.^val or decorated GotWc Th; ^ V''^ 
 
 and some ..urfeetofthe base is oXtralh-rr" 
 but he superstructure is of Ohio sandstone Th t'u 
 
 secu!:r r e^:Lstr'- " '--- "- ^ 
 
 cLciebiastico-secular structure in fJ,o -^ 
 namely: a richly crocketteH c • '''^>'' 
 
 -a.arcadedLerortr:cr:;SJ'"L;- 
 
 pff 
 
ft 
 
 132 ALL-1?01 Nl) ROUTK AND I'ANOHAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 and Victoria square. The effect is striking and highly 
 favorable. This wa formerly occupied b>- the \'.M.C.A. 
 Association, which, however, not satisfied with the pc s- 
 -session of so fine a building, have erected one on a 
 grander scale on Dominion square, opposite the Wind- 
 sor Hotel. 
 
 The street which bounds Victoria square on the west 
 n: the main avenue from the fashionable residential part 
 of the town to the business part. A short distance up 
 Its steep incline, at the junction of Lagauchetiere 
 street, is a cluster of handsome stone churches of Gothic 
 architecture :-St. Bartholomews Reformed Episcopal ; 
 with St. Andrew's, Presbyterian, facing it ; and on the 
 opposite side of the street the Unitarian Church of the 
 Messiah, with St. Patrick's, Roman Catholic, almost 
 adjoining. 
 
 DOKCHK.STi'R .stiu;j;t, 
 
 the next main avenue of importance, contains several 
 fine churches. A short oistancc to the east, after 
 mounting Beaver Hall Hill, the ascent mentioned, near 
 Its conjunction with Bleury st., is the College of St 
 Mary's, largely attended by the youth of Canada and 
 U. S. It is conducted by a large staft" of Jesuit Fathers 
 Adjoining is the Church of the Gesu. which is beautifully 
 frescoed and ornamented, the work of foreign artists 
 principally, in which are delineated incidents in the lives 
 of Christ and the apostles. At the corner of St Moni- 
 que and Dorchester sts. is St. Paul's Church, the hand- 
 somest Presbyterian church in the place, in the early 
 English style, with a very striking tower. 
 
sr. PAir.N I iiiHc n, 
 
 i 
 
 
111! 
 
 il 
 
 f; 
 
 134 
 
 ALL-ROUXD IIOUTE AND PAXOIUMIC GVlDE. 
 TURKISH IJATH IXSTlTUTi'. 
 
 The Turkish Bath Institute has become one of the 
 best known public institutes in Montreal. It is cen 
 
 ' f' M r r.''^;^''"^ °" '"'• '^^""'^"'-' '''■'''' '-^t the foot 
 ot McGill College avenue, and not far from the Wind- 
 sor Hotel. The building is five stories high, towerinc. 
 oyer the surroundings, and contains one hundred and 
 fifty apartments. The baths situated in the first storv 
 are complete in every detail, roomy and luxurious. No 
 baths on the continent are better fitted for the admin 
 istraUon of the Turkish or hot air bath, and all forms of 
 hot and cold water bathing in the most efficient and 
 enjoyable manner. In the treatment of the sick thc> 
 baths are supplemented by Massage and Swedish 
 movement treatment, together with that strict attention 
 to physiological law and nature's simplest means of cure 
 which tlie most advanced thinkers in the medical world 
 are now so earnestly inculcating. TJie success of this 
 Institute in the treatment of the ailing, particularly 
 rheumatic cases, and thedifi-erent forms of blood disease 
 IS undeniable. In 1 889, an artesian well, 1 550 feet deep' 
 was added to the attractions of the establishment, and 
 IS yielding an unlimited quantity of sulphur water The 
 immense swimming bath of the Institute is supplied with 
 this valuable medicinal water. A prominent feature of 
 the Mont-eal Turkish Ruh is the accommodation for 
 travelle:s. About 75 rooms are devoted to this pur- 
 pose. The superior character of the rooms and furnish- 
 irigs the choice and healthful dietary, and the attraction 
 of the baths, have made a great success of the hotel de- 
 partment of the Institute. The sanitarium department 
 
 
 II 
 
 ft 
 
 IN 
 
 , 
 
 f i 
 
 - - .^--^zsaaami 
 
■-4, 
 
 L 
 
136 
 
 ALL-ROUXD ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 ■' 
 
 b s n„f 1*^ P'°"^"' '■" Montreal, of this school. Tl e 
 busmess management is in the hands of Mr F F 
 
 S^irh^rdr^'r''^" ""-■'---— 
 
 DOMLMOX SQUARE 
 '•s next reached, at the corner of uhich is the 
 CATHEDRAL OK ST. JAMES, 
 
 Zrl''- '°T''"'' ■■""' P°P"'-'y "I'ed St Peters 
 
 ti.e poi„ts°ofS Iter's" 7" " ^ '' ^^"'^ ''""^ 
 
 dia„ climate Alead/v^T "f"' '° '"^ C"'"" 
 
 f. J • 7 ^^'"^^'^ay \ve have the domes and th^ 
 
 t^ '':::t "^•'^ h" "-^ ■•"'-■■°"-.^" .o 
 
 ictbinonea and ornamented with t<^ m,,^!, . 
 
 financial considerations „i,l IZ^ A L'7" '" " 
 "" of the square and Osborne st ,1 a C "^- 
 rnass,ve structure, the Windsor st. station of thec"""" 
 
138 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE 
 
 A number of fine, large churches are next met The 
 Domniion Square Methodist al the corner, and the Amer- 
 rican 1 resbyterian near Drummond street, with Cres- 
 
 •cent church, Presbyterian, west of Drummond street • 
 
 near the intersection of the latter is 
 
 ^'KW V. M. ( . A. lUII.DIMi. 
 
 VICTORIA SKATING RIXK, 
 
 the largest and best rink in Europe or America. It is 
 250 by 100 feet, and when hghted at night with gas and 
 elecric.ty presents a dazzling sight, particularly on car- 
 nival mght, when the ice is crowded with hundreds of 
 graceful skaters in every variety of costume. Some dis- 
 tance on, near Gu>- street, is the celebrated 
 
 GRE\' NUNNERY 
 
 founded in 1642. This edifice covers an immense area 
 and the chapel and wards of the nunnery are annually 
 visited by numbers of tourist.s. The old nunnery near the 
 river, so long the centre of attraction from its quaint ap- 
 pearance and solemn-looking walls, has given .ay to 
 beautiful warehouses and stores. 
 
 I1' 
 
 !»> WAU^'|.'»«- 
 
ALL-ROUND KOUTE AND PANORAMIC OUIDE. 
 
 130 
 
 ST. CATHERINE STREET. 
 
 In the eastern part of this street, near the intersection 
 of Colborne avenue, are the Kennels of the Montreal 
 Hunt Club, the largest and best conducted hunting estab- 
 lishment in America. Everything connected with it is 
 most complete and convenient in appointment aud man- 
 agement. The hounds are from the best strains of the 
 Old Country, and the live fox alone is hunted at the 
 brilliant meets of the club in autumn and spring. Near 
 this on Papineau Avenue is the Piano Manufactory of 
 P'oisy Freres, where the finest instruments are turned 
 out. 
 
 At the corner of St. Denis and St. Catherine are two 
 notable churches, the large edifice of St. James, Roman 
 Catholic, with convent adjoining, and that of Notre 
 Dames de Lourdes, in some respects the most remarkable 
 and beautiful church in the city. The architecture of the 
 latter is Byzantine and Renaissance, of the Venetian 
 type, and the interior is frescoed beautifully by the brush 
 of Mr. Bourassa, whose genius has given expression in 
 painting to the doctrine of the Annunciation in a series 
 of lovely scenes from the life of the Virgin 
 
 Near the corner of St. Catherineand St. Urbain streets 
 is the 
 
 COMMERCIAL ACADEM\. 
 
 a handsome building in pretty grounds, which is largely 
 attended by the youth of the French population. Facing 
 it in the rear, and separated by Ontario street, is St. 
 John's Church, where the Ritualists of the Episcopal 
 
UO ALL-KOUND HOUTE AND I'ANORAMIG GUIDE. 
 
 Churcli worship. A long line of low brick buildings 
 faces St. Catherine street, westward of the gates of the 
 Commercial Academy; this is the Nazareth As^•lum 
 for the blind, and the chapel, though unpretentious from 
 the exterior, is within beautifully ornamented with scenes 
 by M. Bourassa, the painter of the Notre Dame de 
 Lourdes Church. Passing Bleury street, the new and 
 handsome Methodist 
 
 II 1 
 
 CHURCH OF ST. JAMES 
 
 is reached, with its be 
 
 th 
 
 uitiful St. Catherine wheel 
 
 e entrance, built at a cost of $300,000. Th 
 
 FIRST liAPTIST ClIUKCH AXI) ST. GAISRIEL's 
 
 over 
 
 I'resbyterian, face each other a little furthe 
 
 th 
 
 e corner of Phillips 
 
 tht 
 
 r on ; and at 
 
 square 
 ART OALI.ERV, 
 
 Where there is a good collection by native and foreign 
 artists. ^ 
 
 On the west side of Phillips Square is 
 
 CHRIST CHURCH CATIH'.DRAL, 
 
 Episcopalian, which in unity of design and symmetry of 
 proportion surpasses anything of its kinds on this conti- 
 nent. It is in the early KngUsh style, and is in the form 
 of a Latm cross. The stone used is Montreal limestone 
 feced with white standstone from Caen in Normandy' 
 The Fulford Memorial at the side is very handsome, and 
 in keeping with the architecture of the church. 
 
i 
 
 142 ALL-ROUNU ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 THE NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY 
 
 has a building a few doors below St. Catherine street, 
 in University Street, which bounds the Cathedral at the 
 west end. It contains a good collection of objects, con- 
 nected with Canadian history and the native race of 
 Canada, as well as of general scientific interest. As we 
 go west there are several fine churches facing this street. 
 
 ERSKINE CHURCH, 
 
 Presbyterian, corner of Pei;l, in .Gothic style, of rough 
 limestone, faced with dressed stone. 
 
 l! 
 
 f 
 
 EMMANUEL CHURCH, 
 
 corner of Stanley street, Congregational, in the early 
 English style ; St. James, Episcopalian, near Mackay 
 street. 
 
 SHERBROOKE STREET 
 
 is a broad, handsome street at the base of the mountain, 
 lint- d with the residences of most of the wealthy citi- 
 zens of the place. It has, however, several buildings and 
 objects of public interest worthy of inspection. The ex- 
 treme west end of it is marked by a pile of massive build- 
 ings of extensive proportions. This is the educational 
 establishment of the Seminary of the Order of the Sulpi- 
 cians, and original seigneurs of the Island of Montreal. 
 It is a college tor the education of youth and training of 
 priests, and is very largely attended, both from Canada 
 and the United States. The old manor house of the 
 
ALL-HOUND UOUTE AND >. ,• ORAMIC GUIDK. 
 
 14» 
 
 seigniory is still standing, and near Sherbrooke street 
 the two remaining towers of the mountain fort stand out. 
 
 1 III: -iHllNAUV 
 
 Amidst the residences of Sherbrooke, street, the 
 grounds and buildings of McGill College and affiliated 
 colleges occupy a conspicuous place. This is the chief 
 University and teaching institution of the Province ; and 
 beginning with a modest endowment of the Founder, 
 James McGill, of ^30,000 in 1813, it has developed, by 
 the aid of handsome donations from wealthy citizens of 
 Montreal, into a most efficient centre of education. The 
 buildings are substantial, without attempt at architec- 
 tural effect, and comprise — the Medical School, laborato- 
 ries, etc., at the northeast end ; class rooms and laborato- 
 ties in the centre ; and at the west the Molson convoca- 
 tion hall, college museum and library. The Presbyterian, 
 Methodist and Congregational bodies have theological 
 colleges at the west of the ground. The large and hand- 
 some building, fronting the college buildings to the left„ 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANOR\MIC GUIDE. 145 
 
 is the Peter Redpath Museum of Natural History, the 
 gift of that ge.Uleman to the University ; while that on 
 the right IS the new Science building. 
 
 University street flanks this side of the grounds, at 
 the head of which, facing Pine avenue, stands the P -1 
 Victoria Hospital, the gift of two of Montreal's ci. ,. 
 Lord Mount-Stephen and Sir Donald A. Smith, who 
 ^Mth a view of commemorating the Queens Jubilee, 
 constructed and equipped this beautiful hospital, the 
 city having provided the site. 
 
 There are many pleasant drives in and around Mon- 
 treal, the most popular being those around the Mountains 
 and by the Lachine Road. For the former we take 
 aicmy or St. Lawrence street, passing on our way 
 a limestone structure surmounted by a beautiful dome 
 This ,s the " Hotel Dieu.'" a cloister and hospital. The 
 building with its enclosure covers an area of several acres 
 Immediately after passing the toll-gate, a road turns 
 to the left leading to the beautiful " Mount Royal Ceme- 
 tery," the resting-place of the Protestant dead of Mon- 
 treal, and the grounds will compare favorably with 
 the celebrated cemeteries of the Old World. The Roman 
 Catholic Cemetery adjoins the Mount Royal, and is 
 approached by a road leading to the opposite side of the 
 Mountain. The drive on which we have entered is a 
 very delightful one. A fine view is obtained of the 
 country from Cote des Neiges, across the Island to the 
 Back River, or Ottawa, with its numerous hamlets 
 convents and churches ; and for a picnic commend us 
 to the Pn^sfs Island close to the old mill of the rapids 
 
 K ' 
 
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 Photographic 
 
 SciKices 
 Corporation 
 
 33 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
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 ALL-UOL-XD UOUTE AND PANOUAMI^ GUIDK. 
 
 ing 
 
 Sault au Recollet, a deliglnful spot, and where, dur 
 the season, a -ood day's fishing is to be had. 
 
 The drive to Lachine will prove of the greatest inter- 
 est Tlie Lower Lachine Road leads along the banks 
 of the St. Laurence, and during the drive there may be 
 seen the steamer descending the rapids. 
 
 A VISIT TO THE VICTORIA BRIDGE 
 
 should be made at this point. Visitors are allowed to 
 examine the first tube without an order ; and as they 
 are alike, to see one tube is to see all. The Bridge is a 
 wonderful structure, and reflects as much credit on the 
 successful builders as upon the original designers The 
 tube through which the trains pass rests upon twenty- 
 four p.ers, and is about a mile and a quarter lone. The 
 p.ers are all at a distance of 242 feet, with the excep- 
 tion of the two centre piers, which are 330 feet ; upon 
 these rests the centre tube, which is 60 feet above the 
 summer level of the St. Lawrence. At the centre of the 
 bndge ,s an opening from which there is a magnificent 
 view of theriver. 
 
\ 
 
 if: 
 
 
!1 
 
 148 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 The bridge is approached by two massive enbank- 
 ments, the one en the Montreal side being 1,200 feet, 
 and that on the south shore 800 feet in length ; which 
 together, including the abutments, make the total 
 length of the bridge 9,084 feet, or a mile and three-quar- 
 ters nearly, constructed at a cost of $7,000,000. 
 
 We shall now leave Montreal and proceed to Quebec, 
 taking as our conveyance the popular Richelieu & On- 
 tario Navigation Company's Mail Line. The two splen- 
 did vessels the " Montreal " and the " Quebec" make a 
 trip between Montreal and Quebec every night, except 
 Sunday, during the time that navigation is open. Any 
 traveller preferring the land route can take the train of 
 the Canadian Pacific Ry. (from Dalhousie Station), 
 ^vhich runs along the north shore of the St. Lawrence 
 "directly into Quebec ; or the Grand Trunk Railway, and 
 •amve at Point Levi opposite " the Ancient Capital " 
 tas Quebecers are fond of styling their city), whence a 
 steam ferry will soon convey them across the river ; or 
 by the Grand Trunk to Sherbrooke, thei -y the 
 picturesque Quebec Central Railway. To .. . y, how- 
 ever, the most agreeable route is that selected by us for 
 description. We shall, therefore, go on board the 
 " Montreal " or " Quebec," take a stateroom, and be 
 landed early next morning at one of the quays of 
 Quebec. 
 
 The scenery on this part of the route is not striking, 
 we shall therefore content ourselves with briefly noticino- 
 the principal points, many of which our vessel will pass 
 while probably we ourselves are enjoying a refreshing 
 sleep. As we steam out of the wharf, we pass by the 
 
DE. 
 
 : enbank- 
 [,200 feet, 
 h ; which 
 the total 
 iree-quar- 
 ). 
 
 D Quebec, 
 eu & On- 
 wosplen- 
 ' make a 
 It, except 
 ;n. Any 
 e train of 
 Station), 
 ^awrence 
 way, and 
 Capital " 
 vhence a 
 river ; or 
 y the 
 y, how- 
 by us for 
 oard the 
 , and be 
 quays of 
 
 striking, 
 
 noticing 
 
 will pass 
 
 ^freshing 
 
 is by the 
 
 (ill 
 
 
 1^; 
 
 IT. 
 
 Ilil 
 
150 ALL-]:OUx\D ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE 
 
 JI. [i 
 
 shores Of the Island of St. Helen's, so called after the 
 beautiful wife of Champlain, the first Governor of Can- 
 ada and the founder of Quebec. Just below the Island 
 IS the village of Longueuil, a favorable summer resort of 
 the citizens of Montreal. 
 
 SOREL, 
 
 or William Henry, is situated at the mouth of the Riche- 
 lieu, the outlet of Lake Champlain into the St Lawrence 
 It occupies the site of a fort built by the Marquis de 
 1 racy m 1665, and was for many years the summer re- 
 sidence of the English Governors of Canada, and here 
 yueen Victoria's father at one time resided. The popu- 
 lation is about 5,000. 
 
 Immediately below Sorel, the river widens into a lake 
 called 
 
 ST. PETER, 
 
 which is about 35 miles in length and abet 10 miles 
 in width. It is very shallow, except in a narrow channel 
 wh.ch has been excavated for the ocean steamers and 
 sailing vessels of very large tonnage coming up to 
 Montreal during the summer season. 
 
 In calm weather it is pleasant sailing over its waters 
 but, owing to its shallowness, a strong wind causes its' 
 waves to rise tempestuously, and many wrecks, princi- 
 pally of rafts, take place every year. 
 
 We now touch at the half-way port of 
 
152 
 
 ALL-EOOND llOUTE AND PANOItAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 THREE RIVERS, 
 
 sm,a ed af the confluence of the rivers St. Maurice and 
 St. Lawrence, n.nety miles below Montreal, and the 
 same d,stance above Quebec. I, is one of tl^e ofct 
 et led towns in Canada, having been founded n 6 
 It is well la,d out, and contains many good buildines 
 
 Catholic Church, the Ursuline Convent, and the English 
 and Methodist Churches. The celeb;ated S. Ma^ ice 
 Forges, s.tuated near the town, have been in ope'a on 
 for more than a century. The population is ,'000! 
 
 BATISCAN, 
 
 j> village of little importance„is the last stopping.place 
 before reaching Quebec. Seven miles above QuebeT 
 we pass the mouth of the Chaudiere river. A short 
 
 t'T'lZMr""'"" "^'"""^'' '"= ChaudlTre 
 i alls. T le Falls are very beautiful and romantic and 
 
 arean „y visited by large numbers of tourists. The 
 
 r.ver at th,s pomt is about four hundred feet wide and 
 
 he he,ght of the Kails is one hundred and twen i-fi e 
 
 fee . The course of the river is thickly studded with 
 
 much to the beauty of the scenery. 
 
 ijLT''"^ '''""" ""' ^'- ^='"'^"«' 'he country upon 
 
 t banks presents a sameness in its general scenery un 
 
 t.U. approach the vicinity of Quebec. The vH ag^'aTd 
 
 areoailr .7 "^ '"^" buildings, the better class 
 are pamted white, or whitewashed, having red roofs. 
 
ALL-KOUND EOUTE AND PANOKAMIC GU:Di.;. ]o3 
 
 of he Catholic churches, which are all constructed in a 
 style of architecture peculiar to that Church. 
 
 The rafts of timber afford a highly interesting feature 
 on the river as the traveller passes along. On each a 
 shed IS bu.lt for raftsmen, some of whom rig out their 
 huge, unwieldy craft with gay streamers, which flutter 
 rom the tops of the poles. Thus, when several of these 
 rafts are grappled together, forming, as it were, a float- 
 ing island of timber, the sight is extremely picturesque ; 
 and when the voices of those hardy sons of the forest and 
 he stream jom in some of their Canadian boat-songs, 
 the wild mu.=ic, borne by the breeze along the waters 
 has a charming effect. Many of these rafts may be seen 
 lying in the coves at Quebec, ready to be shipped to the 
 different parts of the world. 
 
 We now come within sight of the " Gibraltar " of 
 
 ferca^:: ^'^ ^°^^^'^^ 
 
 QUEBEC. 
 
 Quebec was founded by Champlain. in 1608. on the 
 s.teof an Indian village, called ^W^,^;,^. ^ ,-3 ^.^ 
 second city in the Province, and has a population of about 
 65,000. The form, of the city is nearly that of a tri- 
 angle, the Plains of Abraham forming the base, and 
 the r, vers St. Lawrence and St. Charles, the sides It 
 The IT T ' •" P-^^-Upper and Lower Towns. 
 The Upper Town ,s strongly fortified, and includes with- 
 .n .ts imits the Citadel of Cape Diamond, which is the 
 most formuUble fortress in America. The Lower Towa 
 
154 
 
 ALL-ltOL-ND liorrK AXI. I'AXOItAMIC tJUIUK. 
 
 is built upon a narrow strip of land which runs at the 
 base of the Cape, and of the high grounds upon which 
 Upper Town stands; and the suburbs of St. Koch's and 
 St. Johns extend a'ong the river St. Charles to the 
 1 .ains of Abraham. Quebrc was taken by tlie IJritisJi 
 and Colonial forces in 1G29. but restored to France in 
 1722. It was finally captured by Wolfe in lyzg and 
 together with all the French possessions in Nortii 
 America was ceded to Great Britain by the treatv of 
 1763. ^ 
 
 y\ 
 
 Sr. I.OUIS GATK. 
 
 The principal streets in Quebec, including the city 
 and suburbs are the following : Sf. JJtu Street, \\\\\c\v 
 
 i 
 
 ^W 
 
 ^^^ 
 
 ^\^ 
 
 irvv 
 
196 
 
 -ll.I.-riOUNI. liOUTE ASU P4S0RAM.C Cfu.n. 
 
 ul Tn 1 '"" ''"=' '° -''•■ J"'-"'' Gate in the 
 
 Upp^rTown. ami ,.s occupied cl.iefly by letail stores • 5, 
 
 ^-« i/-r.., a l,a„dso,„c a„d wcli-bu^lt s.rc c" afd 
 
 ."g r.o„, the Place d'Ar,„e. to the old St. loTct 
 
 giom, Is «hcre the nuhtary were drilled, and is an ele 
 o "s. Lo"; '"""f "' "."•^"'^ "-"■■•e^^ Granl Alt 
 
 street ,n «h,ch are many elegant villa residences • S- 
 John street without is also -i fin,. .^ . '^'^ ' ^^ 
 
 shops and private dwell! '." T, ptl^rT' t '" 
 the Lower Town is St. Peter, o,: Teh" d oTth: 
 hnrves and sn,all streets which branch from it'n's. of 
 
 a": .ttd.'"^"™"" ""'""'- ""^ -chant;"rc:: 
 
 ■ ♦ ^.-' .«h 
 
 
 »»,»„..- — -^ 
 
 
 'iiix-;i-'A:'- 
 
 Or.D MT. LOUIS GATK. 
 
ALL.„0l.M, KOUTE AND PANOaAMIO OU,,.,; 137 
 
 the fortifications of the r,>.w /"'■'^'^•^'-"^'^'■aced within 
 
 and Hope gates, communicated witiT^rT ^'^'"-^^^^ 
 and two of which, St. Loufe and St ul °""' 
 
 municated with the subnrh! r ., •* ' S*'"' '^°"'- 
 three-quarters o a m le Trl ."" -f "' "^"''- ^bout 
 Towers, frontingthe P ain^o^ih T "' '""^ ^^«^"° 
 
 ^.peaetheadLceo;::::--^^^^^^ 
 
 uutferin Terrace, in Upper Town ,-« . 
 out from the edge of the rn!l V. P''°"^^"ade built 
 
 '-----—-eTottalt^^^^^^^^^^^ 
 
158 
 
 ALI--i;Ol'NI) IIOUTK AM) I'ANuKAMIC fJUIDl-:, 
 
 making it tliC longest pl.,ce of the kind anywhere. It 
 occupies the site of the old castle of St. Louis, which was 
 burned in 1834. and was erected by a nobleman whose 
 name it bears. It was opened in its present form on June 
 10, 1879, by the Princess Louise, its former title of Dur- 
 ham Terrace being changed to the present one. 
 
 At its eastern end is erected the magnificent chateau 
 Frontenac hotel, in which Montreal capitalists have in- 
 
 ^ 
 
 OLD ST. .rollN'.S GATK. 
 
 vested nearly $1,000,000. Its site, overlooking the St. 
 Lawrence, is perhaps the grandest on the continent, af- 
 fording an incomparable view of the picturesque and 
 historic surroundings. It is built after the style of the 
 chateaux of Old France, of course modified to meet 
 modern requirements. The stately structure is seven 
 stories high, and is so planned that every window affords 
 a charming outlook. It contains no fewer than Vj 
 
 „ 
 
 %% 
 
' : 
 
 160 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 sleeping apartments, either single or in suites, of from two 
 to eight, as may be required. The chateau is worthy of 
 .its grand site, and in the magnificence of its luxurious 
 appointments finds no rival in Canada, and very few in 
 the world. 
 
 The Public Garden fronts on Des Carrieres Street, 
 Upper Town, and contains a fine monument, which was 
 erected to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm in 1827. 
 1 he height of this monument is 65 feet, its design is chaste 
 and beautiful, and no stranger should leave Quebec with- 
 out visiting it. 
 
 The Place d'Armes is an open piece of ground around 
 which the new chateau Frontenac, the Government orifices, 
 the English Cathedral, and the old Court House are situ- 
 ated. 
 
 The PZsplanade is a beautiful piece of ground, situated 
 between D'Auteuil street and the ramparts. 
 
 The Basilica or Roman Catholic Cathedral, which 
 fronts on the Upper Town market-place, is a very large 
 and commodious building, but with no great pretensions 
 to architecture. It was founded in 1666 by Bishop Laval, 
 and, being destroyed at the capture by Wolfe, was rebuilt 
 as it is now. The interior is handsomely fitted up, and 
 has several fine paintings by the old masters, which are 
 well worthy of inspection. The church will seat 4,000 
 persons. It has a good organ. 
 
 St. Patrick's Church on St. Helen street. Upper Town 
 is a neat and comfortable building, and is capable of 
 seating about 3,000 persons. 
 
 St. Roch's Church, on St. Joseph and Church streets, 
 in St. Roch's suburbs, is a large and commodious build- 
 
 'Wi 
 
 
 w 
 
►'■53 '■ 
 !■ ■ f ■ 
 !'b --J ■' 
 
 ALL-KOUNI) KOUTK AND PANOUAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 161 
 
 
 KKNT ClATi;, 
 
1 
 
 162 ALL-ROUND UOUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 ing, and will seat 4,000 persons. There are several good 
 paintings in this church. 
 
 The Church of Notre Dame des Victoires, in the Mar- 
 ket Square, Lower Town, is one of the oldest buildings 
 in the city. It has no pretensions to architectural beauty^ 
 but is comfortably fitted up, and will seat over 2,000 
 persons. 
 
 PROTESTANT CHURCHES. 
 
 The English Cathedral is situated between Garden 
 street, St. Ann street, and the Place d'Armes, Upper 
 Town, and is a handsome edifice, 135 by 75 feet, and will 
 seat between 3,000 and 4,000 persons. This churchy 
 which was erected in 1 804, has a good organ and is neatly 
 fitted up. 
 
 Trinity Church, Episcopal, situated on St. Nicholas 
 street, Upper Town, ts a neat cut stone building, erected 
 in 1824. It is 74 by 48 feet, and the interior is hand- 
 somely decorated. 
 
 St. Andrew's Church, in connection with the Church 
 of Scotland, is situated on St. Ann street. Upper Town. 
 The interior is well fitted up, and will seat 1,300 persons. 
 
 St. John's Free Scotch Church is situated on Francis, 
 street, Upper Town. It is a neat, plain structure, and 
 will seat about 600 persons. 
 
 The Wesleyan Chapel, on St. Stanislaus street, is a 
 handsome gothic building, erected in 1850. The interior 
 is well fitted up, and it has a good organ. It will seat 
 over 1,000 persons. 
 
 The Congregational Church on Palace' street. Upper 
 Town, is a neat building of cut-stone, erected in 1841, 
 and will seat about 800 persons. 
 
 HI 
 
 'L^ 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 163 
 
 The Baptist Church, on St. Ann street, Upper Town, 
 is a neat stone building, and will accommodate 450 per- 
 sons. 
 
 The other principal buildings worthy of notice are : — 
 The new Parliament and Departmental Buildings on the 
 Grande Allee on high ground outside the St. Louis Gate. 
 They are of grey stone, and present an imposing ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 The Hotel Dieu hospital and church, which front on 
 Palace Street, Upper Town, and connected with the 
 cemetery and garden, cover an area of about ten acres. 
 The buildings are spacious'and substantial, and the hos- 
 pital has beds for about sixty sick persons. 
 
 The Seminary Buildings, adjoining the Cathedral, are 
 massive, quaint and interesting. The chapel has some 
 fine paintings. 
 
 The General Hospital is cituated on River St. Charles, 
 in the St. Roch's ward. The hospital, convent and 
 church are a handsomequadrangular pile of stone build- 
 ings, well adapted to the purpose for which they are de- 
 signed. 
 
 The Ursuline Convent, situated on Garden street 
 Upper Town, was founded in 1641. A number of fine 
 paint-'ngs are here to be seen, and application for admis- 
 sion should be made to the Lady Superioress. 
 
 Laval University is between the Seminary Gardens and 
 he Ramparts. Upper Town. The buildings, which are 
 of massive grey stone, form three sides of a quadrano-le, 
 and have a fine garden in the rear. The Museum' 
 Library and Picture Gallery are worthy of notice. 
 
 ; » 
 
 f; 'i-J 
 
 ij 
 
164 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC OUIDK. 
 
 The Court House and the City Hall are substantial 
 stone buildings, situated on St. Louis street, and well 
 adapted to their respective purposes. 
 . Morrin College, at corner of Am. and St. Stanislaus 
 Streets, is a Protestant institution, and contains the lib- 
 raries of the Historical Society, a rare collection relating 
 to Canadian History. 
 
 The Marine Hospital, situated in St. Roch'sward. on 
 River St. Charles, is intended for the use of sailors and 
 emigrants, and is a beautiful stone building of four stories. 
 It was erected at the cost of ;^ 15,000, and will accommo- 
 date about 400 patients. 
 
 The Lunatic Asylum is situated at Beauport, two and 
 a half miles from Quebec, and is an extensive building 
 enclosed in a park of some 200 acres. 
 
 The Music Hall is a handsome cut-stone edifice, situa- 
 ted on St. Louis street, Upper Town. 
 
 As the seat of French Power in America, until 1659 
 the great fortress of English rule in British America,' 
 and the key of the St. Lawrence— Quebec must over 
 possess interest of no ordinary character for well-in- 
 formed tourists. Living is comparatively cheap, and 
 hotel accommodation equal to Montreal in every respect. 
 
 A city crowning the summit of a lofty cape must 
 necessarily be difficult of access ; and when it is re- 
 membered how irregular is the plateau on which it stands, 
 having yet for thoroughfares the identical Indian paths 
 of Stadacona or the narrow avenues and approaches of 
 its first settlers, in 1608, it would be vain to hope for 
 regularity, breadth and beauty in streets such as modern 
 
ALL-ROUIJD ROUTE AND PANOUAMIC GUIDE. 165 
 
 Cities can glory in. It is yet in its leading features a 
 c.ty of the 17th century-a quaint, curious, drowsy, 
 but healthy location for human beings ; a cheap place 
 of abode. If you like a crenelated fort with loopholes 
 grim-looking old guns, pyramids of shot and shell, such 
 .s the spectacle high up in the skies in the airy locality 
 called the Upper Town. Some hundred feet below it 
 appears a crowded mart of commerce, with vast beaches 
 where rafts and timber innumerable rest in safety a fevJ 
 feet from where a whole fleet of Great Easterns miaht 
 float securely on the waters of the famed river. On the 
 Flamsof Abraham stands Wolfe's Monument close to 
 the spot where the immortal hero expired and near to 
 the well rom which water was procured to moisten his 
 parched l.p. A fc.v minutes more bring one to Mr 
 Incesv.Ila.VVolfi^eld. where may be seen the ru^c^ed 
 pa^h up th. St. Denis burn, by which the Highlanders 
 and the English soldiers gained a footing above, on the 
 13th September. 1759, destined to revolutionize the new 
 world, the British being guided by a French pris^.^r 
 of war. brought with them from England (D-^nis de 
 V.tre an old Quebecer), or possibly by Major Stobo 
 who had. ,n I7S8. escaped from a French prison in 
 Quebec, and returned to his countrymen the English 
 accompanying Saunders' fleet to Quebec. ' 
 
 The tourist next drives past Thornhill, Sir Francis 
 Hincks- old home, when Premier to Lord Elo-in 
 Opposite appears the leafy glade of Spencer Wood" so 
 grateful a summer retreat that my lord used to say 
 "There he not only loved to live, but would like to rest 
 his bones." Next comes Spencer Grange, then Wood- 
 
 UP 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 ■ 
 
 r'fl 
 
 s 
 
 ■ 
 
 in 
 
 ■ 
 
 ( '■ 
 
 iimM 
 
 ifl 
 
 l:[iH 
 
 V 
 
 S:HB 
 
 ' M IHl^H 
 
 M 
 
 m 
 
i|4J 
 
 ) 1 
 
 1G6 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANOEAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 field, the beautiful homestead of the Hon. Wm. Shep- 
 pard in 1840, and of the late James Gibb for many 
 years after. Then follows lovely Benmore, Col. Rhodes' 
 country seat— Clermont, Beauvoir, Kilmarnock, Catara- 
 qui, Kelgraston, Kirk-Ella, Meadow Bank, etc., until 
 after a nine miles' drive Redclyfife closes the rural lands- 
 cape. Redclyfife is on the top of the cape of Cap Rouge, 
 where many indications yet mark the spot where Rober- 
 val's ephemeral colony wintered sfs far back as 1541. 
 The visitor can now return to the city by the same road, 
 or select the St. Foy road, skirting the classic heights 
 where General Murray, six months after the first battle 
 of the Plains, lost tne second, 28th April, 1760— the St. 
 Foy Church was then occupied by the British soldiers. 
 Next eomes Holland House, ' Montgomery's head- 
 quarters in 1755, behind which is " Holland Tree," over- 
 shadowing as of yore the graves of the Hollands. 
 
 The tourist shortly after observes the iron pillar, sur- 
 mounted by a bronze statue of Bellona, presented in 
 1855 by Prince Napoleon Bonaparte, intended to com- 
 memorate this fierce struggle. 
 
 In close proximity appears the bright parterres or um- 
 brageous groves of Bellevtie, Hamwood, Bijou, Westfield, 
 and Sails Brtiit, the dark gothic arches of Findlay Asy- 
 lum, and the traveller re-enters by St. John "Suburbs, 
 with the broad basin of the St. Charles and the pretty 
 Island of Orleans staring him in the face. Drive down 
 next to see Montmorenci Falls, and the little room 
 which the Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria's father, occu- 
 pied in 1 79 1. A trip to the Island of Orieans, in the 
 ferry, will also repay the trouble ; it costs very little — 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 167 
 
 half an hour of brisk steaming will do it. Cross to St. 
 Joseph, Levis, per ferry steamer, and go and behold the 
 most complete, the most formidable as to plan, the most 
 modern earthworks in the world. Drive to Lake Beau- 
 port, to luxuriate on Its red trout, then to the Hermitage 
 at Charlesbourg. Step into the Chateau Bigot; sit 
 down like Volncy, amidst the ruins of Palmyra, and 
 meditate on the romantic though unhappy fate of dark, 
 eyed Caroline, Bigot's Rosamond. You imagine you 
 have seen everything ; not so, my friend ! tell your 
 driver to let you out opposite Ringfield, on the Charles- 
 bourg road, and the obliging proprietor will surely grant 
 you leave to visit the extensive earthworks behind his 
 residence, raised by Montcalm in 1759— so appropriately 
 called Ringfield ; hurry back to town to spend the 
 evening agreeably at the Morrin College, in the cosy 
 rooms of the Literary and Historical Society, and retire 
 early, preparing yourself for the great campaign of the 
 morrow. 
 
 To THE Lakes ! To the Lakes ! ' 
 
 Here are ^i^\v o{ t\itvci:—Lake Calvaire at St. Angus- 
 tin, Lake St. Joseph, Lac a la Truite, Lake Philippe, 
 Lake Jaiine, Snoxv Lake, Lac Blanc, Lac Sud-ouest, Lac 
 Vincent, Lac Thomas, Lac Claire, Lac McKenzie, Lac 
 Sagamite, Lake Burns, Lac Bonnet— sW within a few 
 hours drive from Quebec, with the exception of Snow 
 Lake. It is not uncommon to catch trout weighing 
 from 12 lbs. to 2d lbs. in Lake St. Joseph and Snow 
 Lake during the winter months. 
 
'11 j? 
 
 1G8 
 
 ALL.I!Or.M. noiTK AND PANORAMIC (illl.K. 
 
 LAKK ST. CHARLES, 
 
 thirteen miles north-west of Quebec, is one of the n,ost 
 p.Uuresque spots in Canada, and during the summer 
 — ,s^ec,.ent.y Visited on ^^^ 
 beauty. There .s a remarkable echo at the Lake which 
 arnes some few .seconds before repeating the :!::! 
 u te,ed. It ,s then re-echoed, "as though the nynmhs 
 
 i".i,^uoodstojom Ml their sport." To those that are 
 fond of anghng. the lake affords an ample suppyTf 
 speckled trout. ^* ^ ' 
 
 niE FALLS 01' MONT.MORKNCL 
 
 In taking o.,r clopart.ne fro.n Quebec, and on our 
 
 TiJfI ,T '"."■•'" ""-■^■^b-'^-d cascade 
 Th,..e Falls, winch arc situated in a beautiful nook of 
 the nycr, are higher than those of Niagara, beini 
 n.ore than two hundred and fifty feet, but they „re'«y 
 narrow-bemg only some fifty feet wide. This nlZ 
 .. celebrated for its winter amusements. Du ' I " 
 frosty weather, the spray from the falls accumulaLto 
 such an extent as to form a cone of s^ .,e eight elt 
 
 called the Lad.es Cone," and it is this of which visi- 
 ors make the most use, as being less dangerous than the 
 higher one They carry ■• toboggans " -long thin piec s 
 o wood about 8 orto fee. in length, by" one foot „ 
 width turned up m front,-and having arrived at the 
 summit, place themselves on these and slide down with 
 .mmense velocity. Ladies and gentlemen both « er 
 
AM,-l!i)lNl) UiWTK AND I'ANcMlAMK^ (Jl'IDH. 109 
 
 With equal spirit into this amusement. It rniuires much 
 sk. I to avoid bcin^r capsized, and sometimes people do 
 hnd themselves at the bottom minus the toboggan. 
 
 "^ ■.■;*=*; 
 
 
 Visitors generally diive to this spot in sleighs, taking their 
 provisions v.ith them ; and upon the pure white cloth 
 which nature has spread out for them they partake of 
 
i 
 
 170 
 
 AlX-llol-xn BOUTK AM. PXI.onA.Ml,: (iUir.E. 
 
 nlvZIrn •■"l' '"'"" " "•»' "Srccable picnic. 
 fhr-rougW,- warms and invi,,„,„.s the sy,„e„,. There 
 brin.t^ ,' '■' '" ""•••'"*»""•■■ f-"- tl.c purpose of 
 
 down m! . -r ""^"" "'"■" '"">• '''■*^- "> -■"--■ 
 down l,e ,cy n,o.„„.nM,. and to, hose who can cnjo,- this 
 
 knd of pleasure ,t i. jjreat spor.. The drive ,o .he 
 
 ra 1 ,s very beautiful ; the scenery on the ro„d .hrnugh 
 
 Be u, or,, where the Provincial Lunatic Asylun, ,s b,^lt 
 
 tiK e l7"'o ■'k'^ *■"" "' '■"""•• •""-■ 'l-'^"ce of 
 
 called Natural Steps." being a series of layers of the' 
 hmestone rock each about afoot in thickness, and fo 
 about hal,.,a.„„le receding one above the o.her. to the 
 I.e.ght of nearly .o feet, as regular as if formed by t e 
 hand of n,a„. They are a great object of wonder and 
 
 ZZ^ "" ."^■■"^ '" "''' '"= '""^ ■'■'o-id certaLl/ e 
 included in tlie visit. 
 
 The visitor to Quebec should not fail to visit the Town 
 
 "f Levis, on whose heights once encamped the En..lish 
 
 troops n, ,759, ,,„d bombarded thecit?; Not Ion-, since 
 
 an encampment of Indians w.as located at that place, 
 
 ow called St. Joseph de Levis, and the citizens .and 
 
 V.CW these dusky roamers. In rear of the Town of Levis 
 are constructed three forts for .he protection landward, 
 ofthe pos,t,o„. They are of triangular formation, th' 
 base facn,g the city, and consisting simply of a wall' 
 mthout any defence except the ditch, leaving it open 
 to be battered by the guns of the Citadel in the event 
 
ALL.KOl'NI) UOl'TK AND l'.\ ouAMn; OUlOR. 171 
 
 Of occupation by an cnicny. The two of her sides arc 
 strongly loop-holed casements, protected I,y a f,dacis, 
 and havipfr loop-holed caponni^res at the anirjes to 
 suecp the ditch, and which arc reached by subterranean 
 passa;?rs. The ditch all round the fort is 20 feet deep 
 b> abc.t 4c icet in width, and is crossed at only one 
 P'Hit 1 y a drawbrid^re, uhich is removed at will Kach 
 fort contains at least one large well, and has accommo- 
 dation for about 400 men. These forts cost the English 
 Croveinment $1,000,000. 
 
 Within a few miles from the Town of Levis are the 
 I^alls of the ChaudicVe, which by some are considered 
 second to Niagara. They arc about .30 feet in height 
 and command from the beholder a sentiment of awe and 
 wonder. The wild waters rush over the i)recipice with 
 the san-c grandeur and magnificence as at Niagara and 
 Montmorency, and the deafening roar stuns, the first 
 few moments, the mind of the most stolid spectator. 
 Here IS seen a breadth of watcrnot existent at Mont- 
 niorency, and there is a grander stretch of scenery which 
 as It were, entrances the beholder. ' 
 
 Down the valley, in 1775, swarmed the brave Mont- 
 gomery and his misled followers, and on the banks of this 
 river they first looked up the city which eventually proved 
 their prison or their grave. 
 
 Near by is the Church of New Liverpool, famed for 
 Its beautiful frescoes. The return to the city by boat 
 is fully recompensed by the delightful view which is 
 afforded of all the prominent points of interest in the 
 Old World City of Quebec. 
 
4 ; '-. 
 
 m 
 
 ii 
 111 
 
 172 AU-ROUND ROUl-K ASU IMNORAMIC GUIDK. 
 
 to>m'rT "T""''"" '"" ^"''""y "P'^"'" "P to the 
 "y tne Jacques Cart.er R.ver, and embracin- 
 
 LAKE ST. JOHN 
 
 T^^tT""-. "'"'" ""^ ^«" ■"»' l-™-^h "itl. 
 vCer hi o K "? """■' P'"''""' '"P ^••'" be n.adc fro,„ 
 
 (~& ?rei;'Tr ■ R t ^"'■^ '\ *= ^■"^^"•■■■^<" 
 
 r„„i J •' " R-'i'l^ray to the lake To the 
 
 ang er and sports.nan thfs region offers particu ar 
 tracons, and a trip .0 Quebec is not rcgrd , 1 /as 
 complete wthout an onting o„ the Lake St. Joh,, ^ail 
 
 THE LOWER ST. LAVVRENCE RIVER. 
 
 or V r I '""*' "' '""='= '° "«'^- his arrang^ents 
 for v.s.tmg that very popular resort, the Saguena, iC 
 many years past, thousands of Canadians a.td African 
 have wended their way to this famous river, and the r 
 
 Cui: 'Nor'"h™r ""^ "^^^ "> makeirstiitto : 
 
 popular. None who have been there but have resolved 
 and to those who have not enjoyed this nrost lovely „f !, 
 
 • Starr r "::" t '" '"^ '»"^-^= °f shak%: 
 
 and not upon the order of your going, but goat once " 
 All ,nfor„,at,on concerning the raeans of transit can be 
 ascertan,ed at the hotel to which we took our 2" 2 
 "/^ '^'oja,e; but in case they may neglect to attendrotl 
 
■a ■■ 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 173 
 important duty of seeking such requisite knowledge we 
 
 Te c^lJ"!""™"" '"^ r-" ~-» ™> bet:;:, 
 
 yuebcc and the Saguenay, leaving Quebec four times a 
 
 ;r ■ T *! '""'' ■"■ ""= ^"^■-'"'=■•3 fro." MonTreal 
 Tese boats belong to the Richelieu & Ontario N igt 
 t.on Company. They are elegantly fitted „p for ute 
 omfort of passengers, and furnished with every co 
 vemence; n.dced, there is nothing wanting to Ld r 
 
 'r mu. ■;" «"^ --'—teaming away down 
 stream at a good speed, and turning our eyes from Ih,. 
 cty «e have just left, we see ^ ' 
 
 THE I.SLAND OF ORLEANS, 
 
 frort'L'',' "'■'' ''''" "' '"^- '■* °f '^'•'"'"'■'. - called 
 from the lu.xunant growth of its wild grape vines It i, 
 
 -tuated 9 n,iles below Quebec. ,t is ^o miles i rienli? 
 and 6 m.les „, its greatest width. There are severalXiU 
 ages scattered over its surface. Like the Island of Mo 
 .real, ,ts so ,s very fertile. On the right, the top spires 
 or.hepar,sh churches glitter in-the sun like silver. These 
 and t e wh,te,vashed farn.-houscs are objects character! 
 .s.co„e country of the habitant. Assoon asthe Is d 
 of Orleans ,s passed, Cape Tourment of the Laval 
 Moun ams ,s well seen I, rises to 2000 feet; on the 
 highest elev,a„on across was erected in ,6.6, eplac d 
 by a small chapel in 1870 
 
 THE FALLS OF ST. ANNE. 
 
 Seventy miles belou- Quebec the River St Anne 
 c.npt,es ,nto the St. Law,ence. About two miles front 
 
174 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND rANOKAMIC GUIDK. 
 
 the village are the celebrated falls of the same name. At 
 this point there is a solitary vale of rocks, almost a 
 natural grotto, through the centre of which the stream 
 rushes until it escapes by a narrow channel, and con- 
 tmues its course, rusuing downward with ever-increasing 
 velocity. The scene below the cataract is very errand 
 Five miles below St. Anne's River we pass Gross^'e Isle, 
 a spot which ever recalls sadness. Thousands who left 
 their homes on the far off shores of Great Britain, with 
 hearts full of the prospect of prosperity in the new world 
 of America, have here found their last resting-plact 
 In one single grave the bodies of about 6,000 Irish 
 emigrants lie interred. Apa-t from these sad recollec 
 tions, the "Quarantine" Island is a fair spot, and its 
 scenery is very beautiful. At this point the river widens, 
 and ere long has reached such a width as to render its 
 shores almost invisible from the deck of our gallant ves- 
 sel. 
 
 All along the route the river presents one continuous 
 panorama of the wildest scenery, only second to the 
 noble Saguenay River. 
 
 From Les Eboulements downwards, the majestic wall 
 of mountains continues unbroken, until we reach the 
 deep recess of 
 
 MURRAY BAY. 
 
 This is a favorite summer resort, 90 miles from Quebec, 
 a primitive settlement, resting among hills and mountains' 
 possessing good sea bathing, and affording sport to the 
 angler or rifleman. Here also is a valuable mineral 
 spring, whose waters are highly recommended to inva- 
 h"ds. 
 
 IIB 
 
ALL-ItOUND KOUTE AXD PANORAMIC GUIDE. I75, 
 
 Some miles below Murray Bay, 
 
 THE PILGRIMS 
 are seen. They consist of a remarkable group of rocks 
 
 the m,rage seemmg constantly to dwell about them 
 due to refraction of the sun's rays, owing to the rocS 
 bemg^sparsely covered with vegetation. Steaming acrosl. 
 
 RIVIERE DU LOUP 
 
 is reached. It is one of the favorite summer resorts and 
 whilst probably not as thronged as some, is frequ 'nt d 
 by many of the best families of both Montreal and Que. 
 bee. The site of the town of FraserviUe (the name un- 
 der wh.ch ,t ,s incorporated) is very beautiful ; on a level 
 plateau at considerable elevation it commands a most 
 xtended view of the St. Lawrence and the disTant 
 Laurentian Mountains. The lover of Nature will enly 
 the beautiful eftect of a June or July sunset as seen frZ 
 here--when the sea-like river lies calmly at his feet 
 
 Connection is made here with the Intercolonial Rail- 
 way. Tourists to or from the Atlantic States or Pro- 
 vinces via Halifax or St. John, take leave of us he" 
 Those desirous of visiting the far-famed watering-place 
 
 CACOUNA 
 
 can, after an exceedingly pleasant drive of about six 
 miles, bordering the sea-shore, find themselves in a_ 
 
 !:i1 
 
 s 
 
m 
 
 176 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 fashionable resort containing numerous private seaside 
 cottages. 
 
 BAIE ST. PAUL. 
 
 It is just a great cleft in the rocks, through which a 
 torrent fed by cascades from the surrounding mountains 
 pours an impetuous stream. The bay is flanked on the 
 east by the lofty Cap aux Corbeaux, named from the 
 hoarse croaking of the ravens that inhabit its uood- 
 crou-ned cresc and inaccessible shelves. Their cries 
 carried far out on the river by the coming squall, have 
 always been of ill omen to the sailors. The old /ladt- 
 tauts are more than half inclined to think this gloomy 
 cape, constantly enshrouded by clouds, the abode of 
 demons. 
 
 There is. too, at Bale St. Paul a portion of the fin-er 
 of Saint Anne, a relic which makes the church a place 
 of renown. A number of earthquakes have taken place 
 in th.s vicinity. In i860, a very severe one occurred, 
 and It IS said that in 1791 peaks north of Paie St. Paul 
 were in active eruption. 
 
 VV'e now see 
 
 3\ 
 
 ISLE AUX COUDRES, 
 
 noted for its rich mineral mines, and so named from 
 the hazel trees Cartier found there; it is one of the 
 oldest French settlements, and in itself would furnish 
 material for an article. It was here that, in 1759, 
 Admiral Durells squadron waited for the rest of W'olfe's 
 expedition. The troops camped for two months on the 
 island whose people had fled to the recesses of the hills 
 behind Bale St. Paul. 
 
 It- i i 
 
te seaside 
 
 which a 
 lountains 
 'd on the 
 from the 
 ts wood- 
 eir cries, 
 lall, have 
 old /m/>/- 
 > gloomy 
 ibode of 
 
 le finger 
 a place 
 en place 
 iccurred, 
 St. Paul 
 
 ed from 
 
 : of the 
 
 furnish 
 
 ' 1759' 
 Wolfe's 
 
 on the 
 
 he hills 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTK AND PANOR.VMIC GUIDK. 177 
 
 We nou- steer across for the north shore ; a tremen- 
 dous chasm opens to view, black, forbidding, like the 
 entrance to a world beneath the mountains. 
 
 Weare at the mouth of the Saguenay. In a moment 
 Its eird fascmation has seized you, and will hold you 
 spell-bound, so long as you sail through the stillness that 
 
 :V^ 
 
 MOUTH or Till: .sA(iii:.v.\v. 
 
 broods over the mountain shores which confine its deep 
 black waters. ^ 
 
 To the right of the entrance of this wonderful river is 
 
 TADOUSAC. 
 
 This is a ver)- pleasant spot. There is a fine hotel 
 and ,n connection with it all kinds of sports for the 
 
 M 
 
 K 
 
178 ALL.lJOr.M) ItOUTK AND PANOUA.MIU GUIDE. 
 
 amusement of visitors. Within 3 or 4 miles in the interior 
 there are numerous small lakes abounding with trout, 
 and between Tadousacand St. l<:tienne, on the Saguenay 
 River, there is very good sea-trout fishing— free to all. 
 Visitors can be supplied with boats and guides. The 
 Steamboat Company's issue of tickets to the Saguenay 
 alTords ample time for tourists to lay over. Tickets are 
 good for the season. The hotel has recently been reno- 
 vated throughout, and the proprietors have spared no 
 means to provide for the comfort of their guests. 
 
 Tourists visiting the Saguenay should no^t fail to spend 
 a few days here. Carriages meet all boats, and a medical 
 attendant resides in the hotel during the season. 
 
 The view from the hotel cannot be surpassed, having 
 a stretch of 27 miles of water, St. Lawrence to Green 
 Island on the south shore, ^\hile the Bay, pronounced 
 the finest below Quebec, is within 200 yards of the hotel. 
 The bathing at this place is \ery superior. A large 
 number of villas have been erected, including one buHt 
 by His Excellency Earl Dufierin, now' owned b}- Sir 
 R. Cameron, of New York. 
 
 Tadousac is interesting from its having been from an 
 early period the capital of the French settlements and 
 one of the chief trading-posts. The great white hotel 
 throws its shadows over the little two-hundred-year-old 
 chapel of the Jesuits, which stands at the foot of its lawn 
 still preserved in all the simplicity of its time. Here 
 are the ruins of a Jesuit establishment, and on this spot 
 once stood the first stone and mortar building ever erect- 
 ed in America, the home of Fatlier Marquette, the ex- 
 plorer of the I\Iississippi. A cluster of pine trees over 
 
le interior 
 th trout, 
 iaguenay 
 "ce to all. 
 es. The 
 )aguenay 
 ckets arc 
 :en reno- 
 Dared no 
 
 5. 
 
 to spend 
 medical 
 1. 
 
 , having- 
 o Green 
 nounced 
 le hotel. 
 A large 
 ne built 
 b\- Sir 
 
 from an 
 nts and 
 te hotel 
 ''ear-old 
 its lawn 
 Here 
 his spot 
 r erect- 
 the ex- 
 es over 
 
 ALL-ROUND KOUTE AND i.AXOi;A.MIc (iUlDK. 179 
 
 t (1 
 
 TAJJOUSAC .■<1I0\VI>0 lIOTliU 
 
 20O >-ears old has grown from 
 the centre of these historical 
 ruins. 
 
 But the scenery of Tadou- 
 sac — what words can do it jus- 
 tice ! Mountain, flood and 
 forest combine to make up one 
 harmonious whole, grand bey- 
 ond description. 
 
 The landing for Tadousac 
 is made at I'Ansc-a-l'Eau. 
 
 i 
 
 J 
 
180 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANOitAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 This little place is noted as being one of the Govern- 
 ment Fish-breeding establishments, where you may see 
 thousands of young salmon in all stages of development 
 from the ova to lively little fellows a couple of inches 
 long ready to people the shallows of some reputed river • 
 and you may watch hundreds of the parent fish swim^ 
 ming majestically round the pond at the outlet, or leapincr 
 m vain at the net-work barrier that separates them from 
 freedom. 
 
 Getting abroad again we now steam up the far-famed 
 River Saguenay, the most singular river in the world. 
 
 It is not a river with undulating banks and shelving 
 shores and populous villages, not a river precipitous on 
 one side and rolling land oi\ the other, formed by the 
 washing away of the mountains for ages. This is not a 
 river of that description ; it is as if the mountain range 
 m bygone days had been suddenly cleft asunder, leavin.T 
 a rocky gulf 60 miles in length and hundreds of feet in 
 depth. 
 
 In ascending the Saguenay for the first time the scale 
 of its scenery is bewildering : everything is deceptive, 
 till even a feeling of disappointment mingles with that 
 of awe. Norwegian fiords are grander, and the Rhine 
 is more picturesque, so the glib tourists say as they 
 wonder at the impression which these semingly low hills 
 so evidently make upon all on board. But by degrees 
 the immensity and majesty assert themselves. As an 
 abrupt turn brings th? steamer close in shore, you realize 
 that the other bank is a mile, aye two miles, distant, and 
 that the black band at the base of the mountains, which 
 roll away one beyond the other, is in truth the shadowed 
 
ALL-BO.™ ROUTE A^ PANORAMIC OU.DE. 181 
 
 lace of a mighty cliff, rising sl.cerfrom the water's ed.,e 
 
 very i„;j:7.: ir^.ttrr ^ '•" "- 
 
 but the o.er>^,eh„i„, "^^^L'yi:":::^'"^ 
 
 theme with infinite variety of dctnil r- !, ^'"'"^ 
 
 over-powere,, by the cvid^Kes ofl i ity IrcT'^r '"' 
 
 power, and this eff^" hel tencTbvTh:';°" °' »"^"' 
 
 iidvc buept and blackened the hill tone . 
 
 r x;::rr::r -" -'-t "'^^^^ -- 
 -..ef^afot^^ord2^;tr:;r:;;L^:^tL^ 
 
 accentuate the lone^ nesj aT 7"1 °""'= °"'' 
 
 0PP0r.neiedgethatCXsanict rS :rarai 
 of white sail in the distance nn^ "<e cove, a shoal 
 
 mocking call echoes frol t ; ocj ZZ"""',:'"'' 
 
 .Hefaceofthesehinswhichwere:Se7ht'.refp:fn;: 
 
182 AI.L-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 of waters were seen and the foundations of the round 
 Avorld were discovered." 
 
 Some writers describe the Saguenay as cold, d-earj-, 
 inhuman, gloomy. Surely they never saw it with the 
 light of the rising sun streaming through its gorges, 
 gladdening its vast solitudes, dancing on the ripple of 
 current, gleaming over the broad, calm bays, playing on 
 the waterfalls that shine like silver threads aniong^'the 
 dark-green firs, searching out the inmost recesses of the 
 giant clefts, throwing warmth and color into grey syenice 
 and sombre gneiss. Did they trace the reflection to 
 Cape Eternity down through unfathomable depths, and 
 then with bewildered eye follow the unbroken sweep of 
 that calm profile upwards and upwards, till sight was 
 led on past the clouds into the infinite ? Had the triune 
 majesty of Cape Trinity, stern, solemn, anc uiysterious, 
 no other impression for them than one of gloom ? Did 
 these mountain walls not seem to them like lofty portals, 
 guiding straight into the opal glor)- that lights the west- 
 ern sky at sunset ? Throughout all this grandeur of 
 lonely Nature in her wildest mood there comes a calm 
 which tempers awe. You feel why the Poet-King found 
 in the great rocks his imagery of security, and how truly 
 he sang, " The mountains also shall bring peace." 
 
 ETERNITY AND TRINITY. 
 
 The first rises to a height of 1900 feet and the other 
 to 1800. If the only recompense for a visit to the Sa- 
 guenay was a sight of these stupendous promontories 
 with Cap Trinity showing its triple steps leading up 
 from the river, the cross and the statue of " The Holy 
 
: GUIDE, 
 of the round 
 
 cold, d"cary, 
 J it with the 
 
 I its gorges, 
 he ripple of 
 , playing on 
 
 among the 
 :esses of the 
 grey syenite 
 eflection to 
 depths, and 
 en sweep of 
 
 II sight was 
 d the triune 
 
 mysterious, 
 oom .-' Did 
 ofty portals, 
 ts the west- 
 jrandcur of 
 mes a calm 
 King found 
 d how truly 
 :acc." 
 
 d the other 
 
 to the Sa- 
 
 omontorics 
 
 leading up 
 
 The Holy 
 
 
 U-NDlJi: CAl'E I'ltlMi'V. 
 
16-1 
 
 n , M 
 
 ALL-KOIM) lioUTE AND PANOIUMIC GUlIiE. 
 
 Viroin " recently erected on the mountain, an.l the pro- 
 file, we are sure no visitor would regret it. 
 
 The statue is built in three piece^of twelve feet each 
 maknicT it i„ all ^6 feet in height. 
 
 The steamers shut off steam when appmachin- these 
 capes, and the captain shapes his course to ..ive the 
 
 CAl'K KTI.IUNU'V. 
 
 passcger, the best view. Ti,c echo produced by the 
 blou,.,,, of the whistle or the firing „f a gun is very fine! 
 
 After sixty miles of th 
 
 IS overpowering n:ggedness, 
 
 HA ! HA ! BAY 
 
 is reached. The fields and houses around Ha ' Ha , 
 Bay bnng back a memory of civilization.-not a very 
 
ALL-ROUNI. HOIITE AND PANOKAMIC O 
 
 mm:. iSo 
 
 r 
 
 "A ! HA ! II.VV. 
 
 pronounced impression,, for tlie little liamlcK nfSt a, 
 phonse and St. Alexis, .nnd the seat IT , '^'" 
 
 a.-e with difficult, distinguished Ct:TS;;:t't 
 ders strewn along the slopes, seen, lost in" he v st 
 Phm,eatre. The story goes that the bay Jas Led fr 
 the surpr sed laugh of the fir f t- , "°'" 
 
 i lit. name IS aptcr to 
 
 III 
 
18G ALL-ROrND ROUTE AND PAXORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 express the feeling of relief one experiences when the 
 mountains recede for a space, and afford, as it were, 
 license to speak with unbated breath. 
 
 Good fishing can be had here. There is also good 
 shooting to be had in the season, and the trout and sal- 
 mon fishing is unsurpassed. 
 
 The Telegraph and Post-office are quite near the hotel, 
 The scenery of Ha ! Ha ! Bay, together with its pretty 
 surrounding villages, is unequalled, and every facility 
 is accorded the tourist to visit all points of interest 
 roundabout. 
 
 To a geologist the traces of the great convulsion are 
 nowhere more striking than here, where you have the 
 evidences of an almost inconceivable torrent. The bay 
 is, in truth, simply what is left unfilled of one branch of 
 the Saguenay cleft. Twenty miles straight on inland, 
 Lake Ken ogam i, a thousand feet deep, surrounded by 
 cliffs and mountains, confirms the proof that the 
 immense alluvial deposits which form the greater part 
 of the peninsula-shaped strip from Lake St. John to 
 where the Saguenay and Ha! Ha! Bay separate, are the 
 debris, washed down by a flood like thousands of Niaga- 
 ras tearing through an abyss opened in a moment, The 
 islands in Lake St. John, and the smooth, rocky hillocks 
 that occur so strangely in the clay lands above Chicou- 
 timi, are the water-polished tops of mountains buried in 
 sand and clay. 
 
 At Ha ! Ha ! Bay arable lands begin. Once beyond 
 the hill, and you can drive on a good road one hundred 
 and fifty miles or so over a score of rivers, away past 
 the southwest shore of Lake St. John. 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 187 
 
 But our way lies along the Saguenay. The narrow 
 passage once passed, where the steamer undergoes the 
 stern scrutiny of Cap Est and Cap Quest, grim and stark 
 cliffs, set only half a mile apart, one begins to see tiny 
 settlements here and there in the ravines between the 
 flanks of the hills and on the narrow strips of the 
 meadow between their base and the river. Trees are 
 more numerous and of a sturdier growth. Cattle are 
 
 AlTltOACHIXO CHKOlTlMr. 
 
 browsing, boats are moving about, and tugs are taking 
 lumber to the vessels anchored in mid-stream. 
 
 In the distance the tall spire of Chicoutimi church 
 marks the end of the steamer's voyage, for Chicoutimi is 
 well named, if the derivation from the Cree " Ishko- 
 timew," " up to here it is deep," be correct, and Pcrc 
 Lajcune, in the " Relation" of 1661, says that Chicou- 
 timi is " lieu remarquable pour ctre le terme de la belle 
 navigation ct Ic commencement des portages." 
 
 ■ 'i 
 
 {^ 
 
188 ALL-ROUKD KOUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDK 
 
 Chicoutiini is set on a hill and cannot be hid. It is 
 not a city indeed, but it is an incorporated tou-n, the 
 seat of a bishopric. Eeautiful for situation, it is the joy 
 of the whole world up here. For are there not sidewalks, 
 and shops, and a convent, and a colleo-e 
 
 The country all round Chicoutimi offers the most 
 varied and magnificent scenery with the St. ]\Iarouerite 
 range of Mountains in the back-ground, and numerous 
 lakes and rivers with the numberless rapids and falls, 
 one of which is called after the great artist de L'Aubin- 
 iere, whose painting, la Chute de L'Aubiniere, was 
 bought and offered to Her Majesty the Queen of Eng- 
 land. 
 
 ^ The Chicoutimi River forms a fine foil of forty feet 
 high just at the end of the main street. This river, in 
 its course of seventeen miles from Lake Kenogami, 
 descends 486 feet by seven falls and a continuous series 
 of rapids. 
 
 Opposite Chicoutimi is the picturesque village of St 
 Anne, perched on a bold bluff, along the edge of which 
 winds the road which leads to Terres Rompues, the 
 " broken lands." whence you take a last look down' the 
 long, beautiful vista of the Saguenay, before you turn 
 to scale the thirty-five miles of falls and rapids that 
 have to be mounted before you see the birthplace of 
 this mighty river, which is as broad and deep and strong 
 at its very beginning as if is at its mouth. 
 
 Leaving Tadousac on the return journey, the steamer 
 again makes its way across the St. Lawrence to Riviere 
 du Loup for the convenience of Cacouna passengers. 
 Those desirous can here go ashore, and take the train, by 
 
 
jIDE. 
 
 ' liid. It is 
 1 town, the 
 it is the joy 
 t sidewalks, 
 
 I the most 
 Marguerite 
 1 numerous 
 5 and falls, 
 J L'Aubin- 
 iniere, was 
 en of Kng- 
 
 (ovty feet 
 •s river, in 
 Kenogami, 
 uous series 
 
 lage of St 
 i of which 
 ipues, the 
 down the 
 you turn 
 pids that 
 :hplaco of 
 .nd strong 
 
 e steamer 
 to Riviere 
 
 assengers. 
 i train, by 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 189 
 
 the Intercolonial Railway, to Quebec. Having sailed 
 down the river, this will prove an interesting diange, 
 and bring them into Quebec much earlier. 
 
 Those tourists taking the train at Riviere du Loup 
 ■^?i'.V"'^^'^ ^"""<^<^tion at Point Levi, which is opposite 
 
 cnicouTiMr falls. 
 
 Quebec, with trains of the- Quebec Central Railway for 
 the White Mountains, which we next intend visiting 
 with them. Those who still keep to the boat, on arrival 
 at Quebec, will probably prefer lying over a day for 
 rest before proceeding on their journey. 
 
V 
 
 i 
 
 » ii 
 
 Urn. 
 
 ' : 
 
 190 ALL-liOUNlJ KOUTE AKD ^A^'ORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 QUEBEC TO WHITE MOUNTAINS, VIA 
 QUEBEC CENTRAL RAILWAY. 
 
 The Quebec Central Railway is a new and favorite 
 summer tourist route from Quebec to all White Mountain 
 points. Taking the day train leaving Levis and a seat 
 in the magnificent Monarch Parlor Sleeping Cars, which 
 run through to New York without change, the traveller, 
 while enjoying the good things furnished from the well- 
 appointed buffet car, has from the t'-ain a magnificent 
 view of Quebec and the majestic River St. Lawrence. 
 The train leaving Levis follows the shore of the river 
 for several miles, and the Beauport slopes and Ealls of 
 Montmorenci are in view ; presenti}' it shoots abreast of 
 the Isle of Orleans, whose low shores with their expanse 
 of farmland, and their groves of pine and oak, are still 
 as lovely as when the wild grape festooned the primitive 
 forests, and won from the easy rapture of old Cartier the 
 name of " Isle Bacchus." The delight which this pan- 
 oramic view affords the traveller is in a few minutes 
 interrupted by the arrival of the train at Harlake Junc- 
 tion, the transfer station with the Intercolonial Railway ; 
 leaving here, glimpses of several Canadian villages, 
 cottages with red-painted roofs and the ever-recurring 
 village church, with its tin-covered roof and spire, engage 
 the eye, until the valley of the Chaudiere River is 
 entered. This valley is noted for its gold mines, and as 
 being the route by which Benedict Arnold reached Que- 
 bec ; in the smiling grain-laden fields, rich meadows 
 and picturesque slopes of this sunny region, we see 
 nothing likely to recall the daring hazardous march of 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 191 
 
 Arnold on his way to Quebec 109 years ago. Proceed- 
 ing on, we arrive at Beauce Junction, where dinner can 
 be procured at the restaurant opposite the station. 
 Bidding farewell to the Chaudiere, and passing St. 
 Frederic, Tring, Broughton and Robertson stations, we 
 reach the famous asbestos mines at Thetford, which to 
 the naturalist or mineralogist will prove most interesting. 
 The place has a volcanic aspect, with earth, rock, and 
 charred timber heaped in uncanny masses. The grey 
 ridge of rocks in which are the open quarries has'' the 
 appearance of an extinct crater. The asbestos is found 
 in irregular seams interspersed through serpentine rock. 
 The fibre, which is exceedingly fine, runs transversely 
 across the fissures of the rock. It was evidently crystal- 
 lized into its present form by the action of water. The 
 seams widen as they deepen, showing that they were 
 produced by an upheaval of enormous force. After 
 blasting, the asbestos is "cobbed" off from the rock 
 with hammers. Its fibrous texture renders it valuable 
 in a hundred ways, and new uses are constantly being 
 discovered for it. Steam-pipes are sheathed with it"; 
 roofs coated with it to render them fire-proof. It is 
 spun with other fibres into cloth that will not burn. 
 The writer has seen a glove, soft, pliable and warm* 
 spun from the pure asbestos, which enables its wearer 
 to handle red-hot coals with perfect freedom. It is 
 cle-'ned simply by being thrown into the fire, when the 
 glove becomes snowy white. 
 
 At the next station, Black Lake, which name is de- 
 rived from the beautiful lake, lying deep among the 
 hills hundreds of feet below the railway, asbestos has 
 
i 
 
 I 
 
 192 ALL-EOUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE, 
 
 also been found in large quantities, and of the best 
 quality. These mines are a short distance up the 
 mountain, but are visible from the passing train. They 
 are operated by twocompanies— one American and one 
 English, and give employment to about 600 men. Black 
 Lake is one of the most picturesque spots in Canada, 
 and is, during the summer months, a favorite resort for 
 the angler and sportsman, who often land speckled trout 
 weighing from two to six pounds each. The vicinity 
 abounds in lakes and streams, wild and romantic scenes, 
 boundless forests, and rich mines of asbestos, iron, marble 
 and soap stone ; gold has also recently been discovered 
 
 there. 
 
 Garthby, on the shore of Lake Aylmer, one of the 
 
 most beautiful sheets of water in this part of Canada, is 
 
 the site of an extensive lumbering establishment, as is 
 
 also Lake Weedon, the next station. Passing Weedon 
 
 we arrive at Marbleton ; the chief industry of this place 
 
 is its lime and marble quarries, which are worked by tl e 
 
 Sherbrookc and Dudswell Lime Co., by whom a very 
 
 extensive business is carried on. After leaving Marble- 
 
 ton, the line follows the shore of the St. Francis River, 
 
 and at this point the farm houses and their dependant 
 
 buildings are substantial. Still further along the line 
 
 the train traverses a series of deep ravines, where little 
 
 creeks, perchance raging torrents in their season, lead 
 
 down to the St. Francis, which sparkles and eddies far 
 
 below as we catch glimpses of it through the woods. 
 
 There is a wide place in the river, called in local par- 
 lance the Basin, a great cauldron-like place, which 
 catches the river as it comes dashing along, and whirls it 
 
)E. 
 
 ■ the best 
 i up the 
 in. They 
 n and one 
 ;n. Black 
 n Canada, 
 : resort for 
 :kled trout 
 e vicinity 
 itic scenesi 
 on, marble 
 discovered 
 
 one of the 
 Canada, is 
 nent, as is 
 g Weedon 
 f this place 
 ked by tl e 
 )ni a very 
 ncr Marble- 
 ncis River, 
 dependant 
 mg the line 
 where little 
 eason, lead 
 I eddies far 
 woods. 
 1 local par- 
 ace, which 
 nd whirls it 
 
 ALL-ROUND ItOUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDK 193 
 
 about for a time before it releases its waters to flow 
 onward. At East Angu, the new medical pulp mills o 
 Messrs. Angus & Co. are situated. This place has 
 grown to be quite a village, though three years a-o it 
 was a virgin forest ; a substantial bridge has been built 
 across the St. Francis River at this point, and brings 
 this village ,n close connection with Cookshire, which is 
 five miles distant on the Can. Pac. Railway. In half 
 an hour or less, a bird's-eye view of Lennoxville is 
 enjoyed, and foremost in the distance appear the towers 
 of Bishops College, the Oxford of Quebec, in connec- 
 tion with which is Bishop's College School of wide- 
 spread and favorable note, and extensively patronized, 
 not only by the youth of Canada but by many from the 
 United States, Proceeding we reach Sherbrooke, in 
 fifteen minutes, where connection is made with the 
 Grand Trunk Railway for Portland ; Boston & Maine 
 Railway for Newport, Boston, etc.; the Central Ver- 
 mont Railway for Montreal, Lake Memphremagog. 
 New York and all Western New England points ; and 
 the Canadian Pacific Railway for Montreal, Lake Me- 
 gantic and the Maritime Provinces. 
 
 Tourists taking the Boston & Maine Railway will at 
 Newport connect with the South Eastern Division of 
 the Canadian Pacific Railway for Montreal. 
 
 Sherbrooke is an incorporated town, the capital of 
 the County of Sherbrooke, on both sides of the river 
 Magog, and on the Grand Trunk, Boston & Maine, and 
 Quebec Central railways, ror miles east of Montreal, 
 and a similar distance by the Canadian Pacific. 
 
 N 
 
 } I 
 
 I i' 
 
II: 
 
 194 ALL-ROUND llOUTE AND PAXOKAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 It is beautifully situated at the confluence of the St. 
 Francis and Magog rivers, the site rising gradually from 
 the former to a considerable elevation in the upper 
 town. The hill slopes of Sherbrooke are conspicuous 
 several miles off, and in the distance the spires and 
 public buildings glitter in the sun. Just above its junc- 
 tion with the St. Francis, the River Magog descends 
 114 feet in little more than half a mile, affording an 
 almost uninterrupted succession of the water power, 
 along which several large manufacturing establishments 
 are placed. There are many places of interest within 
 and near the city, which are well worth a visit. 
 
 It contains the head office of the Eastern Townships 
 Bank, the chief offices in Canada of the British Ameri- 
 can Land Company, several insurance agencies, churches 
 of five or six denominations, an academy, many stores 
 and manufactories of woolen and cotton cloths, flannels, 
 iron castings, machinery, axes, pails, etc., also saw mills, 
 breweries, etc. Population about 12,000. To Len- 
 noxville, three miles beyond Sherbrooke, is a pleasant 
 drive; here the St. Francis is joined by the Massawippi, 
 which brings the tribute of the Coaticook and other 
 streams, as well as the overflow of Lake Massawippi. 
 Overlooking this, " the meeting of the waters" at Len- 
 noxville, and surrounded by a landscape of rare love- 
 liness, is the University of Bishop's College, with its 
 pretty chapel and collegiate school. Above and below 
 Lennoxville, the St. Francis lingers among some sweet 
 scenery; the stillness of the scenery here is in striking 
 contrast to the rude concourse of Sherbrooke, where the 
 Magog dashes wildy down a deep incline, carrying with 
 it the waters of lakes Magog and Memphremagog. 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDK. 195 
 
 Continuing our tour via Grand Trunk we will, in 
 about seven hours, find ourselves, after a very pretty ride 
 through a mountainous country, at Gorham, 90 miles 
 from Portland, and the entrance to the mountains, 
 offering most striking views. The grandeur and beauty 
 of the mountain scenery and of the romantic, richly- 
 wooded glens, through which in an endless variety of 
 silvery cascades and silent pools run the rivers Andros- 
 cognin and Peabody, with their abundant brooks, 
 delight all beholders. The drive by a stage from Gor- 
 ham to the Glen House is exceedingly pleasant, the 
 scenery all round being grand in the extreme. For 
 several years the summit of Mount Washington has 
 been occupied during the winter as a station of the 
 Meteorological Department of ihe United States Army. 
 The mountains are becoming more and more popular 
 as a summer resort on account of their delightful tem-^ 
 perature and wild and beautiful scenery. 
 
 Mount Washington, 6,288 feet, is the highest peak 
 of the Rockies ; a hotel at the top furnishes meals and 
 lodgings to tourists who desire to spend the night on the 
 mountain. A newspaper is also published there, and the 
 ride up the mountain with its ever changing views, as 
 the road winds, is one never to be forgotten. There are 
 in these mountains many waterfalls, some of them of 
 great beauty, the most famous being the falls of Am- 
 monoosuc, descending more than 5,000 feet in the 
 course of 20 miles. 
 
 From the base of Mount Washington an ordinary 
 railway brings us to Fa by a n's, from] which excursions 
 
 
 h::i| 
 
1 90 
 
 A1.I.-!!"(;M) lioriK AxM) I'ANOUAMIG (iUIDE. 
 
 tt 
 
 
 Ilia)- be niadc to Twin IMoiintain, Hethlchem or Fran- 
 conia Notch, the latter celebrated as the home of the 
 
 OLD MAN Ol THK MOUNTAIN. 
 
 The Franconia hills with their beautiful scener}- are 
 the tlienie of admiration to the tourist. Their grandeur 
 is mt so overpowering as at the White Mountains, but for 
 quiet, beauty and repose the Notch cannot be excelled 
 
 These hills are a very picturescjue group, extending 
 several miles to the southward, west-south-west of the 
 White Mountains, and separated from the Presidential 
 Range by two chains of ponderous peaks. 
 
 ECHO LAKE, 
 
 a clear, limpid sheet of water, of great depth and trans- 
 parency, is encircled by rare scenery. Here are the 
 centres of the most marvellous echoes ; the human voice 
 will be echoed distinctly several times, while the report 
 of a gun breaks upon the rocks like the roar of artillery. 
 The Indians believed that these echoes were the voice 
 of the Great Spirit. 
 
 Our space forbids lengthy notices of all the points of 
 interest in this vicinity. We shall, therefore, merely 
 name the prominent. 
 
 Eagle Cliff, a magnificent, bold promontory, almost 
 overhangs the lake; but the sight of sights is the 
 celebrated Profile, or Canon Mountain, directly oppo- 
 site the cliff. It derives the latter name from a group 
 of mighty rocks upon its summit, which looks like a 
 mounted cannon. The former name, is its most familiar 
 itle. 
 
 isi v 
 
ALL-noUNf) liOUTM AND I'ANORAMIU GUI'JE. 197 
 
 OI.l) MAX OF .MllU>TAlIf. 
 
I lis.) 
 
 198 ALL-UOUND ItOLlTK AN'K I'ANOUAMIC GUII»K. 
 
 The most attractive point of interest is the (^Id Man 
 of the Mountain, or the Great Stone Face, which hangs 
 upon one of the highest cliffs, twelve hundred feet 
 above Profdc Lake— apiece of sculpture older than the 
 Sphinx. This stran<;e apparition, so admirably coun- 
 terfeiting the human face, is eighty feet long from the 
 chin to the top of the forehead, and is formed of three 
 distinct masses of rock, one making the forehead, 
 another the nose and upper lip, and a third the chin. 
 The rocks are brouglit into tho proper relation to form 
 the profde at one point only, namely, upon the road 
 through the Notch. The face is boldly and clearly 
 relieved against the sky, and, except in a little senti- 
 ment of weakness about the mouth, has the air of a 
 stern, strong character, well able to bear, as he has done 
 unflinchingly of centuries, the scorching suns of summer 
 and the tempest-blasts of winter. Passing down the 
 road a little way, the " Old Man " is transformed into 
 a " toothless old woman in a mob cap ; " and soon after 
 melts into thin air, and is seen no more. Hawthorne 
 has found in this scene the thcinr of the pleasanttst of 
 his " Twice-told-Tales," that calKd " The Great Stone 
 Face." It is unquestionable the most remarkable natural 
 curiosity in this country, if not the world. 
 
 Immediately below the Face nestles the beautiful 
 sheet of water known as Profile Lake, or The Old Man's 
 Mirror. It is one of the gems of mountain pictures. 
 The finest trout live in the waters. At the Trout House, 
 a short distance below the lake, can be seen several hun- 
 dred of these speckled beauties. 
 
AM-KolNIi IKUTM AND I'ANoKAMIC oniu:. 
 
 199 
 
1 ,* 
 
 200 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDK. 
 
 Lonesome Lake is on Mount Cannon, about a thou- 
 sand feet above the road, with a bridal path leadin<,^ up. 
 Walker's Falls are on the left of the road, and are 
 reached by a forest path leading first to a series of step- 
 like plunges, then to falls of 50 feet and 60 feet. 
 
 ^ Mount Lafayette, 5,280 feet high, is the monarch of 
 Pranconia. Walker's Falls is a most picturesque moun- 
 tain cascade. The Basin, five miles south of the Notch, 
 is a re; rkable spot. Pemigewasset River has here 
 worn curious cavities in the rock. The Basin is 45 feet 
 in diameter. It is nearly circular, and has been gradu- 
 ally worn to its present shap- by the whirling of rocks 
 round and round in the current. Here just below the 
 Basin is 
 
 THE FLUME, 
 
 one of the most famous of all the Franconia wonders. 
 Leaving the road, just below the Basin, we turn to 
 the left among the hills, and, after a tramp of a mile, 
 reach a large granite ledge, 100 feet high and about. 30 
 feet wide, over which a small stream makes its varied 
 way. Near ihe top of this ledge we approach the ravine 
 known as the Flume. The rocky walls here are 50 feet 
 in height and not more than 20 feet apart. Through 
 this grand fissure runs the little brook which we have 
 just seen. Except in seasons of freshets, the bed of the 
 stream is narrow enough to give the visitor dry passage 
 up the curious glen, whicn extends several hundred feet, 
 the walls approaching, near the upper extremity, to with- 
 in ten or twelve feet of each other. About midway a 
 ■tremendous boulder, several tons in weight, used, to 
 
 i '. 
 
ALL-ROUND liOVTli AND i'.VNOIi.VMIU GUIDK. 201 
 
 hang suspended between the cliffs, where it haci been 
 caught suspended in its descent from the mountains 
 above. A bridge, dangerous for a timid step, has been 
 sprung across the ravine, near the top, by the fallin,' of 
 a forest tree. The Cascade, below the Flume, is a con- 
 
 Tnic Fi-iMf:. 
 
 tinuous fall of more than 600 feet, the descent being very- 
 gradual, and is styled the 
 
 SILVER CASCADE, OR THE SECOND FLUME. 
 
 The Pool, a wonderful excavation in the solid rock 
 and the Georgiana, or Howard Falls, complete the lions 
 of the region. 
 
 (I 
 
 ■f 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 m 
 
 III 
 
<:1 
 
 1 
 
 202 ALL-POUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 If the tourist desires, he may continue his stajje ride 
 to Plymouth, and return to New York or Boston via 
 Boston & Maine Railroad and its connections. 
 
 Fabyan's is situated at the centre of the mountain 
 railway system. All the express trains with Pullman 
 and other palace cars which run between Boston, Fall 
 
 tJiAAVFOKI) N;>TCH. 
 
 River, Providence, Worcester, Springfield, New York 
 and the White Mountains arrive and depart from this 
 place. All trains from the summit of Mount Washincr- 
 ton leave here also. 
 
 Resuming our journey to Portland and its neighbor- 
 ing seaside resorts, we will take the Maine Central Rail- 
 
f 
 
 rje ride 
 ton via 
 
 )untain 
 uUman 
 n, Fall 
 
 York 
 n this 
 ihing- 
 
 hbor- 
 Rail- 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 203 
 
 road from Fabyan's, and. after a pleasant ride through 
 quieter scenery, arrive at Portland, a bustling town ''of 
 40,000 inhabitants, most charmingly situated in the great 
 land-locked Casco Bay, which forms for Portland a most 
 magnificent harbor, capable of sheltering the navies of 
 the world, and which has gained for the city the soubri- 
 ouet of "The Natural Seaport." 
 
 In form, Portland consists of a narrow peninsula, pro- 
 jecting from the mainland for three miles in a north- 
 easterly direction, with tide water on cither hand ; its 
 narrowest point is scarcely three-quarters of a mile in 
 width. On the southerly side an arm of Casco Bay, some 
 half mile ■,: separates it from the Cape Elizabeth 
 shore, wh.'. ;■; on the opposite side, Back Cove, so call- 
 ed, lies between it and the beautiful suburban town of 
 Dcering. 
 
 From the centre, the lowest point, which is itself fifty- 
 seven feet above tide-water, the site of the city rises by 
 gradual slope upon either side to an elevation at its 
 northeastern extremity of one hundred and sixty-one 
 feet, where a bold bluff overlooks the sea and commands 
 a delightful view out over th j waves of Casco Bay, is- 
 land-studded and flecked by a hundred sails, to a horizon 
 where the broad circle of the sky is met by the as broad 
 expanse of sea. 
 
 Still higher rises the opposite extreme of the city, un- 
 til from an elevation of one hundred and seventy-five 
 feet, also terminating in a frost-fringed butte, the visitor 
 looks out over the tree tops upon a scene of animation, 
 beauty and grandeur, which is incomparable. 
 
204 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 Over the roofs and tree tops of suburban Deering the 
 view expa. -Js to a horizon where the White Mounliins 
 range stands in bold outh'ne against the western sky, 
 ninety miles distant, yet each peak standing out in in- 
 dividual distinction, while with a good glass the snow- 
 capped habitations upon the summit of Mt. Washington 
 may be discerned. 
 
 The town is rich in tasteful residences and fine busi- 
 ness blocks, and nowhere upon this continent, the bust- 
 ling cities of the West not excepted, have such phe- 
 nomenal strides in growth and adornment been made in 
 the past few years as are here apparent on every hand. 
 
 Forming as it does the great commercial centre of the 
 State, its manufactures, themselves far reaching ir^ many 
 instances, are eclipsed by its trade interests. 
 
 The seaside resorts in the vicinity are famous, and at- 
 tract numbers from all parts of the continent. 
 
 The most charming of these is Old Orchard Beach, 
 which may be considered an environment of Portland, 
 being reached by a haif-hour rail journey from the city 
 through Pine Point and Scarboro. To anyone who de- 
 lights in the ocean, Old Orchard is a name which con- 
 jures up pleasant memories of gradually sloping beach 
 of the purest of white sea-sand, washed continually by 
 giant breakers, faced by two score of hotels, large and 
 small, affording accommodation for three thousand 
 guests, with their orchestras, hops, a.id fashionable socie- 
 ty, a pine grove of eighty acres situaced on a bold bluff 
 
 
 
ALL-KOUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDK. 20r. 
 
 overlooking the sea, abounding in secluded trystin- 
 placos for lovers; a camp ground, where that New Ena- 
 iand institution, the camp-mceting, is indulged in each 
 season ; a community of summer cottages running down 
 to the sea-wall ; a merry-go- rouud for the children • a 
 camera obscura, presenting, however, not more varied 
 pictures than the gaily dressed throng which occupy the 
 promenade, the hotel verandas, and the beach,_the ever 
 glorious beach, with its eight miles of solid white sand 
 rtard as a floor and without a pebble, where one may 
 walk, or ride, or safely disport in a surf without under- 
 tow,-a beach unexcelled on the whole Atlantic coast 
 and one of the grandest cooling-ofif places nature has 
 provided for a long suffering public. There are beaches 
 and beaches, yet Old Orchard bears the palm, a lonc^ 
 Ijne of surf combing high above the sand and breaking 
 continually, yet washing no debris to lie in unsightly 
 prominence and mark the receding tide. Indeed this 
 fact ,s a peculiarity of Old Orchard. One may walk 
 trom the mammoth bathing-houses to the water's dge 
 upon an unsullied stretch of sand, so pure that ladies in 
 S.Iks and dainty whites recline thereon unsoiled, and so 
 gently sloping that one may safely venture far beyond 
 the line of breakers ; there is no danger line. It is the 
 Ideal beach for children of an older as well as smaller 
 growth, and the most popular resort upon the Maine 
 coast. 
 
 Among th>: attractions of the place is the Beach Rail- 
 way running along the shore 4 miles to the Saco Fiver 
 and affording a very pleasant recreation. Old Orchard 
 has a perfect system of drainage and an extensive water 
 
 li^ 
 
206 
 
 ALL-ROUND UOUT?] AND PANORAMIC! GUIDE. 
 
 supply taken from the Indian Spring, 4 miles away, and 
 having properties similar to the Poland water. Recent- 
 ly, also, a kite-shaped race-track has been established, 
 which is very popular and promises to be the fastest in 
 the world. 
 
 The beautiful waters of Southern Quebec and North- 
 ern Maine — the famed Memphremagog, Megantic and 
 Moosehead lake? — each of which has distinctive attrac- 
 tions — are reached direct from Montreal by the Cana- 
 dian Pacific " Short Line" to the Maritime Provinces, in 
 which are many pleasant resorts. By this line are sev- 
 eral routes to the fashionable resorts on the American 
 seaboard through the White Mountains and the many 
 summering places already mentioned, and to Boston and 
 other New England points. 
 
ALL-ltOUND liOUTK AND PANOHAVIC GUIDE. 207" 
 
 SOUTHWARD FROM MONTREAL 
 
 VIA LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 TJie tourist who wishes to reach the summer resorts of 
 Lake Champlain and the regions south of it by the most 
 pleasant route will take the Central Vermont R.R. from 
 Montreal. 
 
 After leaving Montreal and passing through the great 
 Victoria bridge, nearly two miles in length, we^s-s^ 
 through a country which is lacking in points of interest 
 until we have passed seventy miles from Montreal, when 
 the first prominent town in the Green Mountain State is 
 reached, St. Albans, which is the commercial centre of a 
 large and fertile count-y, situated on a sloping upland 
 three miles from Lake Champlain. The healthful cli- 
 mate, the pure air, the attractive drives and the excel- 
 Knce of its hotels render St. Albans an unusually attrac 
 tive summer resort. 
 
 The town is regularly laid out; the streets diverging 
 from the spacious and rarely beautiful park, which is the 
 focal part of the town, are shaded with towering elms 
 and maples. 
 
 From the elevation of Bellevue and Aldis Hiiis, in rear 
 of the town, is obtained one of the most delightful views 
 found in this or any other country. 
 
 At your feet lies the village ; gazing beyond the vil- 
 lage, the eye takes in a broad level tract of land reaching 
 to the lake shore, where that picture begins, wh ich 
 
208 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 I! 
 
 coupled with its historic associations, has made the name 
 " Champlain " world renowned. One of the most pic- 
 turesque parts of the lake is at this point, being com- 
 pletely dotted over with verdant islands. Beyond the 
 lake the Atlirondacks rise in vast groups, forming in 
 their grandeur a fitting object upon which to cast the 
 last lingering gaze. A country offering such rare de- 
 lights cannot fail of being in great favor. 
 
 From St. Albans we pass through the pretty villages of 
 Georgia, Minton and Colchester. At Essex Junction a 
 branch line leads to Burlington, the "Queen City " and 
 metropolis of Vermont. ; No city or village surpasses 
 Burlington in beauty of location, the hill upon which it is 
 situated rising gradually back from the lake front until 
 its highest point is reached, one mile from the shore. 
 Burlington is a delightful place in which to spend the 
 summer months, and being the gateway to the water 
 routes on Lake Champlain, all points of interest are easily 
 accessible. 
 
 The Lake Champlain route is one of the most interest- 
 ing and attractive lines of travel presented in the whole 
 country. It is rendered such by the exquisite and varied 
 beauty of the scenery, by the thrilling historic associations 
 impressed upon it, by the rare accommodation and com- 
 fort of the steamers of the Lake Champlain Transporta- 
 tion Company to the tourist, and by being the most 
 direct and eligible route between Saratoga, the White 
 Mountains, Mount Mansfield, the Adirondacks, Montreal 
 and Quebec. It combines many decided and peculiar 
 advantages, and prominent among these is the pleasant 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDK, 209 
 
 Change from the dust and heat of the cars to the spa- 
 cious and airy steamers. Lake Champlain stretches a 
 distance of 120 miles, almost due north and south, and 
 seems designed by the hand of Nature to form an ave- 
 nue of commerce and social intercourse. Travelle-s who 
 have widely explored the objects of the New and Old 
 World unite in pronouncing the waters of Cluimplain the 
 most beautiful and impressive the eye can rest upon 
 Varied features unite to complete the panorama. • The 
 waters of the Lake, whether reposing in a calm or 
 surging under the power of a tempest, are indescribably 
 beautiful ; but this attraction is infinitely enhanced by 
 the islands which, in varied form, stud its bosom, by the 
 peninsulas which pierce it, and by the bold, rocky preci- 
 pices that hang over the Lake. The shores on either 
 side are impressive and beautiful : now a long line of 
 rugged cliffs, crowned by dense forests, appears, and now 
 sm.h„g,„ luxurious ranges of culture and elegance, em^ 
 bellished by farm houses, mansions and villages, with 
 their ghttering spires. All this scene of beauty is en- 
 hanced by the dark framework of mountains that fm 
 part magnificence to the whole. The Champlain Trans 
 portafon Company has its headquarters in Burlington 
 and ,ts steamers form the regular line to all points on' 
 Lakes Champlain and George, as well as the popular and 
 direct route to Saratoga, Troy. Albany and New York 
 
210 
 
 ALL-KOUiNU UOUTK AND PANOUAMIG UUIDK. 
 
 ,m 1: i 
 
 -■?! 
 
 MONTREAL TO PLATTSHURG, AUSABLE 
 CHASM AND THK ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 The route to New York City from Montreal lies among 
 some of the most celebrated scenery of America. It cm- 
 braces Lake Champlain, l^.rt Ticonderoga, the Adi- 
 rondacks, Lake George, Saratoga Springs, 1 he CatskiUs 
 and the magnificent scenery of the Hudson River 
 Leaving Montreal by the Grand Trunk Railway, and 
 crossing the St. Lawrence by the famous Victoria Bridge, 
 connection is made at Rouses Point with the Delaware 
 & Hudson Ry. From this point the journey southward 
 may be pursued entirely by rail, or partly by steamer, as 
 desired- if the latter, the tourist may enjoy a delightful 
 trip from Plattsburg to Ticonderoga, by the Steamers of 
 the Lake Champlain Transportation Co.'y over the 
 waters of the beautiful Lake Champlain, among the 
 scenery made memorable by the annals of hi.story. 
 
 ROUSE'S POINT. 
 
 Rouse's Point is picturesquely situated on historic 
 Lake Champlain, between the Adirondacks and Green 
 Mountains, whose lofty peaks form a picture of enchant- 
 ing beauty, as, like majestic sentinels, they stand guard 
 over the placid and cooling waters of beautiful Cham- 
 plain. Fort Montgomery is located here, on the site of 
 old " Fort Blunder," which name was given from the 
 fact that it was built on Canadian soil, thereby laying 
 the foundation of the famous Ashburton treaty. 
 
 It was at Rouse's Point, also, that the lake was en- 
 tered at the time of its discovery, July 4, 1609, by 
 Champlain, after whom it was named. 
 
ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDK. 211 
 
 A run of 25 miles brincjs us to Plattsburg, which 
 modern events having rendered the most conspicuous 
 point on the Lake, the tourist will soon discover that a 
 sojourn of more than a single day will be required for an 
 insj)ection of its varied objects of interest. 
 
 The military works made memorable in the siege of 
 Plattsburg in 1 8 14 claim the attention of the tourist, who 
 
 will also make a pilgrimage to the military gnivesin the 
 cemetery. The drives are delightful. 
 
 THE ADIRONDACKS. 
 
 The great wilderness of north-eastern New York is 
 generally known as " The North Woods'' ox di%'' The Adi- 
 rondacks" according to the view taken of its surface- 
 The former title indicates merely a wild, densely-wooded 
 region ; the latter, a region occupied by all the varied 
 
 II 
 
 H 
 
Ill 
 
 ') :i 
 
 212 ALL-UOUND ROUTE AND rANOUAMlO GUIDE. 
 
 scenery pertaining to a most remark.iblc lake and moun- 
 tain system. 
 
 This wild region ol dense forest, majestic mountains, 
 matrnificcnt lakes and beautiful rivrrs. lies in the counties 
 
 Ai:SAIILli CHASM. 
 
 of Herkimer, Hamilton, Lewis, St. Lawrence, Clinton, 
 Franklin and Essex, and aggregates over 3,500,000 acres 
 — a tract of land of an area of 100 miles square. 
 
 
ALL-KOUND ROUTE AND PANOllAMIU GUIDE. 213 
 
 The region is the only primitive hunting and fishing 
 grounds left within any reasonable distance of New York- 
 City, and offering as it docs rare health-restoring qualities, 
 combined with excellent deer hunting, and the best brook 
 and lake trout fishing accessible, is yearly more than 
 doubling its number of visitors— in fact, the limit is only 
 measured by hotel c.puoit '. 
 
 The Adirondacl reipon i; iteadily growing in favor as 
 a resort for person, aificted /ith throat and lung trou- 
 bles; and while it is d h, ^ny means a sure cure for 
 all, however deeply tiic disease may have become set- 
 tled, yet. if persons so afflicted will go there in time, they 
 will find the dry, pure air, imprej;nated as it is with bal- 
 sam and pine, to be of infinite relief, and many living 
 witnesses are there found to prove its benefits. 
 
 AUSABLE CHASM. 
 
 The landing for Ausable Chasm 
 
 is Port Kent, 15 miles from Platts- 
 
 burg, 10 from Burlington, 66 from 
 
 I Fort Ticonderoga, and 107 from 
 
 I Caldwell, the head o^'Lake George. 
 
 I The Chasm is distant three miles 
 
 fr.)m Port Kent by rail. 
 
 The trip through the chasm is 
 one of intense interest, and cer- 
 tainly a half-day should be given 
 
 to it, but it can be made in two or 
 
 three hours. The boat-ride over the last half-mile is 
 one of the great features of this passage through a land 
 of surprises, and the novel sensation of shooting the 
 
 \m 
 
214 
 
 ALL-nOUND IIOUTK AND rANORAMIC ,iVWF,. 
 
 rapids and floating over unknown-depths, although ac- 
 comph'shed in perfect safety, is something long to be 
 remembered. 
 
 ROUTE TO AUSABLE CHASM. 
 
 Leaving Plattsburg, a few hours ride brings us to Port 
 Kent, the point of entrance into the Valley of the Aus- 
 able River, but chiefly interesting to the tourist as the 
 starting point for the famous Aasable Chasm,;. Here 
 close connection is made with trains of the D. & II. 
 Railway, by the new railway just opened, the Keesc- 
 ville, Ausable Chasm, & Lake Champlain Railroad, three 
 miles to the Chasm and six to Kecseville. The scenery 
 on this line is very beautiful and picturesque, especially 
 where it crosses the chasm at the Horse-shoe Falls by a 
 cantilever bridge 240 feet long and 140 feet from the 
 Avater. Here is presented the finest view of the most 
 picturesque part of the chasm. On arriving at the Lake- 
 view House, the hotel there, where in time for a com- 
 fortable supper the night can be spent, in the morning 
 the same train on the D. & H. R.R. or steamer foV 
 Lake Champlain can be taken for the South, as if re- 
 maining at Plattsburg, and of course in doing so making 
 precisely the same connection through Lake George if 
 desired, the only differer-e being that, in staying at 
 Ausable Chasm for the night, the tourist is presented the 
 opportunity in the moi-ning of seeing the wondrrful 
 Chasm, having ample time to do so e/i route if his desire 
 may be to push through that day without any loss of time. 
 Although, L the traveller, in search of pleasure and the 
 beautiful, can find it possible to spare the time, we know 
 

 ALL-UOUNl) ROUTE AM. rANoilAMlC GVim. 2] 5 
 
 AUSABLE CHASM. 
 
Il" *... 
 
 216 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 of nowhere upon his route where he will find more to re- 
 pay him than here for a day, or very much longer even 
 if he can give it, in exploring the wild fastnesses of Aus- 
 able Chasm, or in enjoying the many attractions offered 
 him. 
 
 HOR8K SHOE FALLS, AISAULE CHASM. 
 
 Continuing our course down Lake Champlain, the 
 tourist will soon perceive the venerable ruins of old 
 " Fort Ti— ," looming up on a high rocky cliff at the 
 
i to re- 
 ;r even 
 >f Aus- 
 offered 
 
 I, the 
 f old 
 It the 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 2l7 
 
 conflueno; of the waters of Lakes George and Champlain. 
 Mount Defiance stands opposite to the former, and 
 Mount independence on the eastern shore of the Lake. 
 Tironderoga is now the southern terminus of the Steam- 
 boat Line, and here connection is made with trains to 
 Lake George, or to Whitehall, Saratoga, and the southern 
 points. 
 
 The completion of the railroad between Lakes George 
 and Champlain is an attractive feature of tne Lake 
 George route, as a tedious stage ride is avoided. There 
 are two daily lines of steamers each way through Lake 
 George to Caldwell. 
 
 One hour's ride on the D. & H. Ry. brings us to 
 
 SARATOGA SPRINGS, 
 
 which still retains its popularity and prestige as the 
 greatest watering place of this continent after more than 
 half a century's supiemacy in that respect. Long befoie 
 the discovery of Saratoga's wonderful springs by the 
 whites, the place was the resort of Mohawks, Oneidas. 
 Onondagas, Senecas and Cayugas. who came thither for 
 the health-giving properties of the waters. The first 
 white man to visit the place was Sir William Johnson 
 who, in 176/, was conveyed there by his Mohawk 
 friends, in the hope that the waters might afford relief 
 from the serious effects of a gunshot wound in the thigh 
 received eight years before in the battle of Lake George' 
 at which time his army defeated the French legions 
 under Baron Dieskau. The prosperity of the villacre 
 began in 1789, with the advent of Gideon Putman, and 
 has continued almost uninterruptedly, until to-day it 
 
\r 1. i 
 
 218 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 has a resident population of 12,000 and a cummer popu- 
 lation of sometimes 60,000, and offers more attractions 
 than any watering-place in the world. 
 
 Its hotels are the largest and most luxurious in the 
 ^yol■ld ; Its streets are the most beautiful, and every thincr 
 that taste cr wealth could suggest has been done to 
 make it. />a. "xcdleuce, the first of resorts. The villa-e is 
 most charmingly located in a healthful situation, ^'sur. 
 
 >*ll! WlI.r.IAM .roilNSTO.N AT SAUATO,; A. 
 
 rounded by beautiful scenery, with the blue rano-e^ of 
 mountains visible upon cither side, with an interme'diate 
 country as fair as the eye could de=ire to look upon The 
 principal street is Broadway, lined with double rows of 
 magnificent elms; the throngs of carriages and people 
 that crowd It present a spectacle unlike anything else in 
 world. Newport and Interlaken, Ems and Long Branch 
 
>E. 
 
 merpopii- 
 ttractions 
 
 us in the 
 
 /ery thing 
 
 done to 
 
 village is 
 
 ion, sur- 
 
 ^^^&^ 
 
 ^m^^^m 
 
 nges of 
 nediate 
 n. The 
 "ows of 
 people 
 else in 
 branch, 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 219 
 
 have their special charms, but nowhere else is so much 
 of general splendor concentrated in so limited a space. 
 
 UNITED STATES HOTEL. 
 
 The old United States Hotel was built in 1824, and 
 was destroyed by fire in 1865. The present magnificent 
 structure was completed in 1874, but Saratoga had 
 already become the noted resort of all our watering 
 
 PJMSTli iTATEi MOTEL 
 
 TOMPKINS, GAGE. S;. CO.. PRopmcroRs. 
 Sabatoga Springs. N,Y. 
 
 places, frequented by our mothers and fathers in their 
 teens, and by their mothers and fathers too, arrayed in 
 the fashions of that day, which were just beginning to 
 yield to a new order of things, but which seems ;i odd 
 to us as ours doubtless in ^hei-- turn will seem to a later 
 generation. 
 
 ■I.il 
 
 ?i 
 
220 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUr:,.:. 
 
 i'i' 
 
 But though that old r^ime ha. passed awa. ,V one 
 .ense, the U„i,ed State. Hotel Jin,,,,,. ,■ : 'p 'e, ,' .. 
 st.ll und,rn,„,shed, a:,d remain, as ,nuch « eve,- a , Ilntt 
 
 U.eei,tesoc,etyofourl..nd, retun, year after year to 
 find the scent of the , Id roses lingering there s.'ll and 
 he same atmosphere of refinement „ hid, ch.m.ed b" 
 so much ,n ,he , youth. It is this that confers a pe^ulia; 
 o. .a«,...,upo„ the .. States, "and tha.e„mn,e„d' , 
 
 ™ed ,:Vi r '"""°" '" ''°""- '•"' '° '"^ '™"y edu- 
 cated .,, ,.,:.,„y,„t ,„„ig„„^ „,^^ ^.^.^ .^ every year. 
 
 sa.d. ,„ ,N„ .,.crld-..-built in the form of a hollow square 
 ;"• """' P/°P"'y' ••> P<^ntagon, has about 9,; ,00ms for' 
 
 "■^ in 1 V "'°" ''""'°" «"•«' "tending 656 
 
 f-t m length, ,ts p,azzas taking 2,300 feet of sp.ce ii 
 
 a •■'"cotl'at' "■" ^™'""'^ '°'" '''"' =■"«. »"d include 
 a Cottage ™-g on the south side of the nlaza m-,r, 
 than five hundred feet in extent T,,- / 
 
 „f .1. , extent. rh,s \v,ng forms one 
 
 of the most desirable features of the house, as it Tfford! 
 fam,l,es and parties, „ ho may prefer it, the quiet ad 
 seclus,o„ of a private villa, .i,h all the a.ten to^ and 
 conven,ences of a hotel of the first class. The rooms of 
 th.s w,„gare arranged in suites of from one to sT^en 
 bearooms w„h parlor, bathroom e.c., in each suite 
 The hotel building is of b,-ick, six stores high divided 
 
 walls, and there are, besides, ten staircases, afo din., 
 ample means of escape from fire. The t S 
 

 ALL-ROUND UOUTE AND I'ANORAMiC GUIDK. 221 
 
 thoroughly plumbed, and the bedrooms are supplied 
 with gas, water, and marble basins. 
 
 The elegant drawing-room, superbly furnished with 
 carpets of the most costly weave, elegantly upholstered 
 furniture, costly chandeliers and mirrors, is on the 
 Broadway side, and in the Division Street wing are the 
 dining hall, 52 by 212 feet, with 20-foot ceiling, private 
 drawing and dining rooms, and the grand ballroom, ii-> 
 by S3 feet, with ceilings 26 feet high, artistically and 
 appropriately decorated. The interior court, surrounded 
 by extensive piazzas, and ornamented with beautiful 
 shade trees, fountains and lawn statuary, presents, in 
 the evening, when illuminated with colored hVhts and 
 enlivened with Stub's orchestral music, a fairylike 
 scene. 
 
 Everything, in a word, that is needed to make hotel 
 life attractive can be found in this admirably arranoed 
 establishment. Nothing apparently has been omit'ted 
 that might conduce to the comfort and convenience of 
 its guests. The private park of the hotel is one of the 
 attractions of Saratoga Messrs. Tompkin's. Gage and 
 Perry, the capable and genial hosts, have worked hard 
 to bring the service of the " United States " to its present 
 state of excellence, to which the distinguished patrona-e 
 the Hotel enjoys is a well-deserved tribute. "^ 
 
 To such an establishment a good livery is a necessary 
 adjunct, and this is furnished by Messrs. Adams & 
 Hodgman, of Division street, opposite U. S. Hotel, who 
 have an extraordinary variety of conveyances and equip- 
 ages, including landaus, victorias, cabriolets, one two 
 and three seat glens falls buckboards, carts, phaetons 
 buggies, etc., on hire for any period. 
 
 i 
 
•>■) > 
 
 ALL-KOCM. KOL-TH AND PANOlUMlU CUIDK 
 
 h 'i: 
 
 ^?;:! 
 
 ll Ji If 
 
 |H 
 
 Their establishment Is the largest and finest in Sara- 
 toga. 1 nces reasonable and service first class 
 
 In addition to their livery they have boarding stables 
 enfrely separate from the li^■ery. and accom.n'odations 
 for one hundred horses. 
 
 THK HUICSTIS HOUSE, 
 
 oca ed on South Broadway, Saratoga Springs, is a select 
 fam.ly hotel, first class in every respect. vW.ich offer 
 
 home f'T"' "-q-^'-^d '-attractions as a vacation 
 home for those m pursuit of rest and recreation 
 
 It IS especially commended to those who enjoy the 
 vivacity and inexhaustible possibilities of; muse 
 
 - 
 
 1, 
 
II IK. 
 
 'St in Sara- 
 
 s. 
 
 iiiff stables 
 
 iniodatioiis 
 
 iJlMl^ 
 
 )f 
 
 •; iViUse 
 
 H.iA.-' 
 
 y 
 
f 
 
 .J 
 
 ••- 
 
■■■.,^ 
 
 t». 
 
 ALL-.:uUND noVTE AXD .'AXOUAMIC UUIDE. 225 
 
 ail ^^r ^ St t^::j°r'' ^^ ^ "^^^^'^ »-- ^n^^ 
 
 ment Built ' ''""'' ''^'""«^^">-^"t a„d enjoy- 
 
 ment. i:5uilt to accommodate only a limited mnnK * 
 guests -inrt /-^f . "^ «■ "iimea niiinbcr of 
 
 gucst.s, and catenn'r on V totli-if rl. c r 
 
 furnishe,, ag.ar,my of a.f,"c and cI ""T' ' '""'" 
 'I- Hues,,-,, located on So th B ""f" "'"''""^• 
 corner of Ciicuh..,, . , "™'i>l"^y near tlie 
 
 villas and be" if „■ "":' '"""""^^^^y hand.on.e 
 Con.re^s LrZ , f ""f-"' °'"'~'''' ""= ^harnn-„g 
 
 ~.He,rea,Ho,e.,..ndu;ero.frr-r^^^^^ 
 ■^ easonable. ' '"'""^'^ unexcelled ; rates 
 
 THE WAVERLY 
 
 is one of the nicest and most comfortable Hotels .t 
 Sar.itoga ; it consists of one hundred r7 J 
 
 hnnriv=^ c ^ r iiunarea rooms and six 
 
 a..a,ea„d„e,We„.na.^d,a„d.pXr;^^^^^^^ 
 tnbute to the comfort and pleasure of its guests. The 
 
220 
 
 ALL-UOUND HOUTE AND I'ANOUAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 terms are very reasonable, and special rates arc made by 
 the week. vir. H. W. Slocum, the proprietor, is a most 
 eflficient and popular host, and succeeds admirably in 
 making everyone comfortable and at home. 
 
 THE SPRINGS 
 
 in the Saratoga valley are among the natural curiosities 
 of the world. There are 28 in the village limits, no two 
 alike in composition. 
 
 The'first of these springs which is historically noted 
 is that which still flows in sprightly volume, delicious 
 cool and grateful to the taste, known as the High Rock 
 
 Spring, mentioned in a letter of Sir William Johnson 
 about one hundred and fifty years ago. 
 
 The Hathorn Spring discovered in i868 has steadily 
 for the years last passed been becoming the supreme 
 favorite with visitors. Its waters, cool, delightfully rasp- 
 ing to tongue and faces, showing in the glass like a 
 volume of white beads, are, to many who drink, the most 
 grateful beverage known to their palates. They are 
 furnished at their natural temperature, and also warmed 
 
 f 
 
HUE. 
 
 re made by 
 •r, is a most 
 mirably in 
 
 il curiosities 
 nits, no two 
 
 •ically noted 
 e, delicious 
 High Rock 
 
 am Johnson 
 
 has steadily 
 the supreme 
 jhtfuUy rasp- 
 glass like a 
 ink, the most 
 They are 
 also warmed 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 227 
 
 for those who prefer them in that way. At some inter 
 vals m the season there arc daily thousands of visitors 
 dnnk.ng at the spring, while day and night workmen 
 are busily engaged bottling and casing them for a stead- 
 ily extending patronage over this country for passenc^ers 
 for he ocean steamers, and for all the harbors of^the 
 world. 
 
 The throngs of visitors go to the spring and return 
 from It. expressing their delight with the draughts which 
 they have quaffed, and the piles ofcases ready for trans- 
 portation by the railroads show how wide-spread and 
 extensive is the thirsty constituency for the waters. 
 
 Clinical experience and chemical analysis, then, would 
 guide us to the selection of a mineral water havin- a 
 less irritant and depleting effect than the bitter waters 
 of foreign importation so widely used, and this is claimed 
 for theHathorn Water of Saratoga Springs. It is free 
 from the objectionable sulphates and contains the chlo- 
 rides ,n large proportion, combined with the carbonates 
 of hme and magnesia, upon which its aperient properties 
 
 The catharatic action produced by the Hathorn 
 water will not be found depressing; the sluggish liver 
 IS freed from its over-loaded condition, intestinal circula- 
 tion is improved, and the flow of blood throu^xh the 
 capillary vessels of the digestive canal is no longer re- 
 tarded. The digestive organs are roused to improved 
 functional activity, and the blood and the various tissues 
 and organs regain their norma! condition. 
 
 The use of Hathorn water is, however, not limited 
 to cases of constipation and disorders of digestion In 
 
! 
 
 1: 
 
 1 
 
 : 
 
 r 
 
 i 
 
 
 t 
 
 
 \ 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 
 ■■%i> 
 
 Sly ■ ' 
 
 II ' I 
 
 V ■ 
 
 
 228 ALL-ROUND KOUTE AND PANOEAMIG GUIDE. 
 
 urinary disorders, in llthiasis, phosphatic deposit, in 
 chronic diseases of the bladder, in the gouty habit, and 
 in various forms of skin disease, it presents claims to 
 superior excellence, and its use has been followed in 
 many instances by great improvement in cases that had 
 received but varying benefit from ordinary treatment. 
 Its cathartic action is, however, necessary to such im- 
 provement, and its alterative effect may then be secured 
 by smaller portions taken two or three times a day. Its 
 action upon the kidneys is to produce free and copious 
 secretion, and in some instances, when its eftect is to 
 produce excessive action, it is better to omit the altera- 
 tive doses for a time, either entirely, or to diminish the 
 quantity taken for that; purpose. 
 
 The popular verdict, according the Hathorn water, the 
 preference, is evidenced by the following fact : 
 
 The annual sale in bottles of this most popular mineral 
 water has for twelve years /argcly exceeded the sale in 
 bottles of any other American natural mineral water, 
 and the popular verdict merited in the opinion of C. F. 
 Chandler, Ph. D., M.D.,ofthe School of Mines, Colum- 
 bia College, New York, who stands as a chemist at the 
 head of his profession ; he says : " No water in Saratoga 
 county is more highly favored by nature than the Ha- 
 thorn water. // t/ic pcpiilar verdict accords it the prefer, 
 encc, the water xvill merit it. There is nothing in the 
 water that can in any way injure the most delicately 
 organized system, provided it is not used in excess, or 
 at improper times. 
 
UE. 
 
 leposit, in ' 
 habit, and 
 claims to 
 allowed in 
 ;s that had 
 treatment, 
 such im- 
 be secured 
 V day. Its 
 nd copious 
 fleet is to 
 the altera- 
 ninish the 
 
 I water, the 
 
 lar mineral 
 the sale in 
 eral water, 
 on of C. F. 
 les, Colum- 
 mist at the 
 n Saratoga 
 :in the Ha- 
 ' the prefer. 
 ing in the 
 delicately 
 I excess, or 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE, 
 
 THE RED SPRING 
 
 229 
 
 is an alkaline water with alterative, diuretic and tonic 
 effects, and is celebrated for the cure of salt rheum, ery- 
 sipelas, inflamed eyes and al! diseases of the skin. For 
 rheumatism, rheumatic gout and lumbago the Red Sprino- 
 alkaline baths are unrivalled. Red Spring water is 
 sold in bottles only and shipped everywhere. 
 
 The Red Spring is situated on Spring avenue and 
 Geneva street, in the north-eastern part of Saratoga 
 Springs, and within easy walking distance of the prin- 
 cipal hotels. It was discovered in 1770, or almost as 
 early as the locality was visited by white men, was the 
 second one found, and one of the two thac for many 
 years were the only ones known. These two laid the 
 foundation for Saratoga's unrivaled prosperity and 
 growth. 
 
 F"or more than one hundred years the " Old Red 
 Spring," as it is familiarly called, has been giving up its 
 hea'iiig fountain to the world, and has accomplished a 
 vast number of cures. During that time it has steadily 
 grown in public esteem, and has received the most 
 flattering recognition from the medical profession. 
 Since it was carefully and thoroughly retubed in 1871 
 its remedial virtues have seemed to increase. 
 
 A recent medical v.-riter on the springs says: "The 
 Red Spring may be compared to the v/onderful Carlsbad 
 of Europe. Both springs have performed marvelous 
 cures, and are comparatively weak waters ; nor can their 
 virtues be ascribed to any particular ingredient. The 
 very fact that the Red Spring Water contains less 
 
i': 1 
 
 i I 
 
 Mi > 
 
 230 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 mineral impregnation than some other waters, makes it 
 much more desirable in certain affections than it would 
 otherwise be ; this is especially true when an alterative 
 action is desired. The remarkable virtues of the water 
 may be due to the peculiar combination of its mineral 
 constituents, or possibly to medicinal agents unrevealed 
 by any analysis to which it has been subjected. 
 
 SARATOGA CARLSBAD 
 
 is a natural saline-alkaline lithia water. It is not like 
 other Carlsbad waters, native or foreign, as it contains 
 no Glauber's salt, and it differs in its effects from the 
 other saline-alkaline waters in containing more bicar- 
 bonate of lithia with salines and alkalies than any other 
 natural mineral water. This happy combination of 
 Nature's Laboratory is acknowledged by physicians to- 
 day as being the strongest and most efficient lithia water 
 ever offered ; the five years of its use since the discovery 
 of the Spring has also placed it at the head of morning 
 aperient waters and the most serviceable and harmless of 
 all uric acid solvents. Its superiority over many diur- 
 etic aperient waters is that its tonic restorative proper- 
 ties strengthen the excretory organs and restore the 
 natural and regular action. It is an indispensable 
 therapeutic adjuvant, and should be freely used in indi- 
 gestion, billiousness, torpid liver, constipation, hemmor- 
 rhoids, litha^mia, insomnia, rheumatism, gout, and aU 
 diseases associated with the uric acid diathesis. 
 
ALL-ROUND KOUTE AND PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 THE ROYAL SPRINC 
 
 231 
 
 water was exploited in 1886. and has obtained . u-H 
 
 DR. HAMILTON'S MEDICAL INSTITUTE 
 
 and contribute to their liealth. ^^ 
 
 THE SARATOGA BATHS, 
 
 in Phila St are the finest and most complete in Americ 
 and furnish every description of bath to those who /o'n 
 for treatment of this kind. ^ 
 
 WALKS AND DRIVES. 
 
 The Chief promenade, of course, is Broadway uhich 
 
 a direct hne. The sidewalks are wide and well paved, 
 
 pi 
 
232 
 
 ALL-ROUND ROUTE AND PANORAMKJ GUIDE. 
 
 
 and shaded by a double row of beautiful trees. All the 
 large hotels, the shops, Oriental bazaars, and several of 
 the principal .springs, have their main entrances on 
 Broadway. 
 
 Congress Spring Park is a much-frequented resort, 
 and a favorite playground for the children. It is laid 
 out in a highly artistic manner. There are beautiful 
 laws, an artificial lake, a deer park, and a delightful 
 grove of forest trees. Boring's military band gives con- 
 certs in the park three times a day, morming, afternoon 
 and evening. 
 
 Admission to the park is regulated by tickets, for 
 which a nominal charge is made to adults, but children 
 under ten years of age, accompanied by guardians, are 
 admitted free. 
 
 Woodlawn, Judge Hilton's magnificent park, is on 
 North Broadway, about two miles out. It comprises 
 alDout fifteen hundred acres, beautifully laid out in walks 
 and drives, leading acro.;s rustic bridges, over miniature 
 lakes, through inviting groves of forest trees, passing 
 here and there pretty cottages occupied by overseers 
 and caretakers of the estate. Here and there throughout 
 the grounds are sculptured marbles, evidence of the re- 
 fined taste of the owner. 
 
 The old Indian trail from the Hudson River, which 
 was traversed for centuries by the tribes of the Six 
 Nations, runs right through the centre of the place, 
 along the ridge, and, followed faithfully, will lead, so the 
 old settlers say, to the summit of Mt. Marcy, the ancient 
 king of the Adirondacks. 
 
ALL-KOUND ROUTE AND PAXOHAMIC OUWK. 
 
 238 
 
 ;s. All the 
 d several of 
 itrances on 
 
 tickets, for 
 but children 
 lardians, are 
 
 park, is on 
 [t comprises 
 out in walks 
 er miniature 
 ■ees, passing 
 by overseers 
 3 throughout 
 ce of the re- 
 liver, which 
 of the Six 
 if the piace» 
 II lead, so the 
 , the ancient 
 
234 ALL-ROUND liOUTE VXD PANORAMIC GUIDE. 
 
 An afternoon can be spent here very pleasantly. A 
 mile beyond is Glen Mitchell, a favorite resort for excur- 
 sion parties. 
 
 Circular street, which leads from Broadway, bounding 
 the upper end of Congress Park, contains many elegant 
 private residences, and some fashionable boarding 
 houses, 
 
 The most frequented drive is to the lake, about five 
 miles. Stopping awhile at Moon's for refreshments, you 
 can, if desired, prolong the trip and take the iitile steam- 
 er which plies at frequent intervals the upper end of the 
 lake, about seven miles, a delightful sail ; or you can, if 
 preferred, take the drive around the lake, which will be 
 found equally enjoyable. , 
 
 Several Tndian encampments and amusement grounds 
 for children are within easy walking distance. 
 
 Chapman Hill. Wagmain Hill, Waring Hill, Bemis 
 Heights and Ballston are all popular drives. Bemis 
 Heights, about 15 miles distant, in a southeasterly dir- 
 ection, is memorable as the scene of two important en- 
 gagements in the Revolutionary war, between the 
 British army under General Burgoyneand the American 
 army under Gates. A handsome monument has been 
 erected on the ground by the State and National -ov- 
 ernments. '^ 
 
 The Geysers are situated about a mile and a half from 
 the village, and are well worth a visit. They may be 
 reached by the cars of the Union Electric Railway. 
 
 A highly interesting feature of Saratoga is " The 
 Pompeia," an exact reproduction of the house of Pansa 
 buried by Vesuvius in the year 79. 
 
 l.,,'* 
 
ALL-noUND ROUTK AND PAKOKAMIO GUIDE. 235 
 
 Probably the greatest of recent additions to Saratoga's 
 attractions „ the new Convention Hall, the most pe, 
 feet assembly room for great gatherings in Amcric " 
 The bu.ld.ng ,s located on Broadway, between Con"re s 
 Pa. kand the Windsor Hotel, adjoining the Pompeia The 
 
 ™ "d ^h t'°?", ™' "" ^™""^ «°- ■' -'^ 'Wly 
 
 arranged that a fa.rly good pair of ears, i„ ..ny one of 
 .ts five thousand opera chairs, can hear every word ad 
 dressed to them from the platform. It is a sld -^id 
 
 to fZ""- Z'l t ^'"'"^' *<"-oughly and omit the trip 
 o h s.or,c Mt. McGregor, where General Grant spent 
 the last days of his life. The distance is only ten mi 
 and the t.me occupied but thirty-five minutes. 
 
 road is '"""■''r T' '■°'"'-- '^ "^kingly beautiful. The 
 road ,s one of the most remarkable achievements of 
 .V.I engmeermg of the present time, running, as it does 
 to the very summit of the mountain, eleven h ndred fee 
 above Saratoga, and with a grade in some places a 
 «.gh as two hundred and forty-six feet to the mile 
 
 ve^fi'ne"™h'"''''^'''"'''' *c Astern Outlook is 
 very fine, cmbracmg the great Adirondack region and 
 
 MlntaTn:" '";"°"'^-^'-" P-' °f '"e State, the Green 
 themrM ^"!"°"'' ->d. in the extreme distance, 
 the White Mountains of New Hampshire. 
 
I 
 
 4 
 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 
 
 il I 
 
 11 '' " 
 
 JI ,J 
 
 1 •« * 
 
 236 
 
 ALL-KOUND KOUTK A.ND TANOUAMIC OUIDK. 
 
 !Jf f1 
 
 1ft- 
 
^n 
 
 
 c 
 o 
 
 H 
 9 
 
 o 
 
 o