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LONDON, E.: PUBLlSTfED nv JAMES IMUAY AND SON, CHAKT AND NAUTICAL BOOKSELLERS, 80 & 102, MINORIES. 1801. %* Communications for the future improvement op this, or any op OUR Works, are respectfully solicited, and will be thank- fully acknowledged. INDEX. ANY OP TIIANK- PIO* AvVltCTC, POBT 12 Alden'8 Ucef 68 Ammen's, or Cashe's Ledge .... 79 Andrew's Harbour, St 51 Annaiwlis and Gut 38 Ann, Cape 78 Annisquam 76 Archer's Rock 85 Asia Shoal, The 103 Aspotogon Harbour 13 Avery's Lodge 77 Bauson's Ledge 84 Baker's Island (Maine) 58 Baker's Island (Mass.) 84 Baker's Island Breakers 85 Banquereau, or Bank Qucro .... 34 Bantam Hocks 19 Barnstaple 92 Barrington Bay 20 Bartletfs Reef 135 Bass Harbour (Maine) 59 Bass Rip, The' 102 Bass River 112 Bear Island 58 Beatson Ledge 36 Boaver Harbour (New Brunswick) . . 44 Beaver Harbour (Nova Scotia) ... 5 Beaver lall 123 Bedford Reef 115 Bellisle Spit 9 Bell Rock 8 Bergen Point Light 158 lieverly 86 Bickerton Horbour ....... 3 Bird Island Light 118 Bishop and Clerks' Light 105 Bishop Head 45 Black Roits Iron to Halifa: Wft^'hes. Cranhi 80 fcrt hi tnd 10 m flOiizoiital Of tho JCOflv of 3 from the ptiiiso is ji *ttor, the . CANSC •round, ai ^ovv then ifcpilot^ or -"■ iSailinjj Bull, over ■^hen abo\ ^Jtil you liirry you SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE COAST OF NORTH AMERICA, FROM CAPE CANSO TO NEW YORK HARBOUR. *^(,* THE BEARINGS AND COURSES ARE ALL BY COMPASS, UNLESS EXPRESSED to TJIE CONTRARY. THE SOUNDINGS ARE ALL REDUCED TO THE LEVEL OP low WATKR, SPRING-TIDES ; AND THE DISTANCES ARE IN NAUTICAL MILES OP SIXTY TO EACH DEGREE. CAPE CANSO TO CAPES SABLE AND ST. MARY. CAPE CAXrso OR CANSJCAW.-Qff the eastern extremity of Nova Scotia there Hve a number of islands and dangorous rocks, among whicli no ship should venturo without an intimate knowledge of the locality. Cape Canso is, properly speaking, tho eastern point of the largest of these islands, St. Andrew's. Between this island fiid the main shore there is a narrow passage of 9 to 13 fathoms water, but as there ti-e many rocks scattered about, it is only fit for small vessels, and these must be navi- gated with considerable care. From St. Andrew's Island to Tor Bay, a distance of 18 liles, the coast is extremely irregular, presenting to view several white cliffy points; is also bordered with small islands, and hero at times the sea breaks in a most iiious manner, llence, following the coast westward to Lismmb Harbour, the shore composed of red earth and forms several beaches; and from Liscomb Harbour to pie Hugged Islands, (excepting tho White Isles, wliich are white rocks,) tho capes l^d outer Islands are bound with black slatey rocks, generally stretching out in q^its from east to west. From the Rugged. Islands to Devil's Island, at the entranco t Halifax Harbour, there are several remarkably steep red clifl's, between which are iclics. Cranberry IslamJ. — On the northern part of Cranberry Island there is a lighthouse 0b fci't high, which exhibits two fixed lights at 75 and K) feet above the sea, visible 15 And 10 miles. The building is of wood, octagon-shaped and striped red and white poii/.ontally, and the lights are 35 feet apart. Of the many rocks in the vicinity of Cape Canso, the breaker, named tho Bass, a |POck of 3 feet water, lies more than 2 miles in an E. \ S. to E. by N. i N. direction flfon) the lighthouse on Cranberry Island ; at seven-tenths of a mile, S.E., from Capo Canso is a similar rock, named the Roaring Bull ; and at 1 mile to the E.S.E. of tho jitlei-, there is said to be another, but its existence is doubtful. CANSO HARBOUB, within St. George's Island, is well sheltered, with good p(;und, and sufficient depth for vessels of any burthen. In a rough sea the dangers •fiiovv themselves; but with smooth water it is hazardous to enter the passages without ;||-,pilot, or a leading wind. •• Sailing from the westward into this harbour, so soon as you have passed the Roaring Bull, over which the sea generally breaks, run for Pitipas, or Red Head, taking care, •#lu'n above the Black Rocks, to keep them open of the rocky islets oil' Ca])o Canso, Wtil you bring Glasgow Head and the north end of Inner Island in one, whicli will lirry you above Llan-of-War Rock; then steer westerly, being careful to avoid B AVIIITE IIAA^EX. Miiclcorel Rotlc, and nial;e for Ijurylng Island, tlie norlli end of wliicli yon Tiitist not approach nearer Uian to havo a depth of 5 fathoms; then anchor to the north-westward of it, on a bottom of mud. Cominij from the eastward, pass between Cape Canso and Cranberry Island, giving the latter u snlHcient berth, to avoid a shoal which stretches to the southward of it, and steer fur Vilipas Head, as before directed. The Northern Passage between DurroU's and George's Islands, notwithstanding its narrowness, yet having a depth of water and a clear channel, will be found to be the best passage into Canso Harbour. In sailing in, keep mid-channel between J3ald and Nett Kocks, the former being above water, and the latter drying at one-quarter ebb ; Avhen you may steer with safety, by attending to the chart, and the situation of Bury- ing Island. At Canso Harbour it is high water, F. and C, at 7h. 48m.; the tide ranges from IJ, to 01. feet. DOVER HAY. — At about 7 miles to the south-westward of Cranberry Island is Dover I'a}', a deep inlet lying between Little and Big Dover Islands, Little Dover Island JHMng on the eastern side. At the head of the bay there are many sunken rocks, but in other parts there are 10 to 11 fathoms, with the exception of a rock of about '1 feet lying in the entrance at a mile iiom White Point, the south point of Little Dover Island. From White Point a dangerous ledge extends out a mile to the southward, many of the rocks forming which are visible in bad weather; these require a good berth to be given tiiem because they are steep-to. Tlie anchorage is on the western side of the bay at about a miio above Big Dover Island, and anchorage may also be obtained between the small islands north-westward of Little Dover Island and the eastern shove. The anchorage within Little Dover Passage is also perfectly secure in any weather. Little Dover Passage is the narrow intricate channel separating the north point of Little Dover Island from the shore. It has in it a depth of 2 to 9 fathoms, and is only fit lor small vessels. BIG DOVER HARBOUR.— This is a small harbour on the western side of Big Dover Island, in which there is a depth of 5 to 10 fathoms water. Care is requisite when running in, as there are rocks on either side of the entrance. When inside, the anchorage is in 7 fathoms under a small island at the head of the bay. The channel between Big Dover Island and the shore is narrow, but it affords the advantages of a dock, as vessels can lash to both sides and still be in 30 feet water ; when half-way through, however, there are not more than 10 feet water. WHITE HAVEN lies 4^ miles to the westward of Big Dover Harbour, and is an inlet running into the land a distance of about 3^ miles, which is still further prolonged by the Pleasant Kiver, a broad and deep stream falling into the head of the bay. At its entrance are several islets and sunken ledges, so that caution is necessary when running in, and the assistance of local knowledge would appear to bo requisite. Of the rocky islets, the larger and outer one, named White Head, from the colour of its sides, is 70 teet high ; this islet appears round and smooth, and is a use- ful mark, as the passage in, on cither side, is in mid-chaimel. Olf the head are two breakers, one in a S.S.E. and the other in an E. by S. direction, but the distance is not stated ; there is also a patch of 4 feet lying half a milo S.S.W. + W. from White Head.* The depth when inside White Haven averages 9 to 12 fathoms, and there is a small island in the middle, about naif way up. This island bears the name of Fisherman's Island ; it is surrounded by a sunken knlge, particularly on the western side; so that the sal'est passage woTild appear to be eastward of it. White Haven has a very irregular shape, and no doubt anchorage ma}' be found in many parts of it. The coast is very barren and has a desolate appearance, particularlv about the entrance. TOll BAY. — The entrance of this bay is formed on the wcs'. bide by a bold head- land, named Berry Head. The channel in is between this head and the islets to the eastward. E.S.E. fnmi the head, and south of George's Island, are three very dangerous rocks, which do not break when the sea is smooth. Within the buy, under the peninsula, there is anchorage, in from to 4 fathoms, muddy bottom, up to the ♦ On t!ic Houtli-wcut oxtremlty of Whifc Head lulnnd there is a liuhtliousc 36 feet his:li, which shows a liuUt Jhnliinu every lo" ut 5j feet nlxne the sen, visible 11 iiiile-i. The huildliij,' is pyra- midal ill form, unci colounil white. Tlie \\\i\\{ is not totally ohscuied diniiiy the eclipse.-'. It was inteiidiil to i>hu'(> a l.irpreffiin on the i liiiid. to ho llred every hiilf hour in foggy weuthcr ; wo uro uuctrti'.iu wticthvr this intention hns Iceu carried out. COUXTEY nAKBOUE, &c. 8 ist not ilward how themselves whenever there happens to be a heavy scii, the entrance is rendered comparatively easy. Having passed the Black Ledge, which is the innermost dunger, the navigation will be perfectly safe for the largest fleet. The tide is scarcely per- ceptible, except when, in spring, the ice and snow dissolve, and heavy rains aro pre- valent. The approach to Country Harbour should be made if possible with the assis- i tance of a pilo* . In approaching from the westward, and liaving passed Castor and [Pollux, give Capo Mocodome a good berth, as a rock named the Bull lies olf it, and has 5 to 7 fathoms close to it ; this rock lies half a mile from the extremity- of the [cape, and dries at low water. The Black Ledge above this cape is partly dry al l. Between Goose and Harbour Islands there is a depth of Id to 12 fathoms, and between Harbour Island anu the shore are G to 8 fathoms. The latter pass;igo ia Jiarrow, but there is here excellent anchorage on a muddy bottom, which is a convenient road for going to sea during almost any wind. Isaac Harbour, on the north side of the entrance to Country Harbour, is about 3 nilcs long, and has a depth of 6 to 7 fav/i.-jms water. The ground is good for hoKling, so that the small coasting vessels frequently run into it. Fisherman's Harbour lies south of Country Harbour, immediately behind the Black iedge. It is about 2.j miles in extent, and has a depth of 10 to and 3 fatho:ns, the atter being at the head of the bay, where is the anchorage. In entering from the \ost\vard, great care is required to avoid the Bull Rock, upon which the sea breaks iu >ad weather. Birkcrton Harbour, a little to the west of Fisherman's Harbour, is fit for small rossols only ; but it is a safe, convenient, and snug little harbour of 5 to 3 fathoms ^ater. At 2 miles to the west of it i.-* ILoUiun Harbour, a place of shelter for coasters, ^nd resorted to by the fishermen. Indian Harbour is a shallow and unsafe creek, bub las good lands, well clotheil with pine, maple, birch, and spruce. The next inlet, lamed fVinc Harbour, has a bar of sand, which is nearly dry. D 2 I- LISCOMB IIAEBOUK. ST. MARY'S RIVER.— This river is difficult of access, as it i.s barred by shoal j^rouiul, whicli extends across the stream, at the distance of ly mile above Guiiuing- Pi)int, tlie West point of the entrance ; the assistance of a pilot will therefore be neces- sary wlion attempting to run in. Helow the bar, towards the western side, is a middle ground, which appears uncovered in very low tides ; and above the bar, nearly in raid- channel, is a small, rocky islet. ThepassajE:e over the bar is on the eastern side of this islet. The tide, which is very rapid, indicates the channel ; the latter is devious, between mul-banks, dry at low water, which extend from each shore. The depths upward are from 24 to 18 feet. Sailing in, you should proceed for 4 miles N.N.W., then 2 miles N. by W. ; and afterwards N.N.W. to the Fork, where it divides, the western branch terminating in a brook ; the eastern branch continuing navigable a quarter of a mile Hirther up the rapids. The town of Sherbrook is, at present, a small village at the head of the river, about three leagues from the sea. The islet, named Wedge Isle, which lies at the distance of half a league south from the S.W. point of St. Mary's River, is remarkable, and serves as an excellent guide to the harbours in the vicinit}'. A beacon, erected upon it, may be seen from 6 to 8 miles off; this beacon is of wood, 110 feet high, covered at the top, and painted white. The side of the islet, towards the mainland, is abrupt, and its summit is 115 feet above the sea. From its S.W. end ledges stretch outward to the distance of half a mile ; and some sunken rocks, extending towards it from the main, obstruct the passage nearly half-way over. About 2 miles south from the Wedge is a fishing-bank, of 30 to 20 feet, the area of which is about 2( Meet above the levL'l of the sea. Tiie isles are bold on the south side, and there is a safe pass.ige between tlum; good auchora<;c also exiaU within them, in from 10 bu 7 fathoms. From thc^o SHEET IIAEBOUR. islands many rocks and ledges extend 5 or miles from E. loE.N.E., which are bold-to, and mostly dry, the water within them beinj^ always smooth. EEAVEIl HARBOUR. — The Pumpkin and Reaver Islands are very remarkable to vessels sailing along the coast, particularly Pumpkin Island, which is a lofty and darlc barren rock. Inside of them there is smooth and exfollcnt shelter during a southerly gale. Sutherland Island, north of them, has, on its N.W. side, a small but deep and bold inlet, where a vessel may lie concealed, and as secure as in a dock. When in the offing, Beaver Harbour is remarkable on account of the small island which lies north of the black rock, having at its southern end a red cliff, being the only one on this part of the coast : having entered the harbour, you may choose your anchorage, according to the direction of the wind, the bottom being generally mud. The basin on the west side is so steep-to, that a small vessel may lie afloat with her side touching the beach. A stranger wishing to enter the harbour should bo furnished with a pilot. A revolving light, visible 1^ minute, and dark ^ a minute, is exhibited in a light- house, of a square form, standing on the south end of the Outer Beaver, or William's Island. The lantern is 70 feet above the level of the sea, and the building is painted white, with two black balls on the seaward side to distinguish it in the day-time. In clear weather the light can be seen about 12 miles. From it Sambro' Li miles, which has only 5 feet over it, and 22 fathoms close within and with- out it; this is supposed to be the Brig Rock, but if so, the bearings are not correct. These two notices are inserted, to show that some dangers exist hereabout, and will be sulHcieut to warn the mariner to search for, and cautiously avoid them. HAXiXFAX KAKBOVR lies about 120 miles westward of Cape Canso, and 113 miles ea.-tward of Cape Sable, and is one of the finest in British America. It is easy of approach and accessible at all seasons, and is large enough to accommodate almost an}' nunilicr of vessels in perfect security. Its direction is nearly North and South, and its length about 14 miles. The channel up to the town is nowhere less than ^ a mile broad, nor under G fathoms in depth, except in two places where there are only 4^ I'atlunns ; these "re named the Neverlail and ]\liddle Shoals. Its upper part, known by the name of Bedlbrd Basin, is a beautiful sheet of water, containing about 10 square miles of good anchorage. The town of Ilalitax is the capital of Nova Scotia, and contains above 18,000 inhabitants. High water on the days of full and change at 7h. \\)\\\. ; springs rise G and neaps 4^- feet. The land about the Harbour of Halifax, and a little to the southward of it, is in ui)pearaaco rugged and rocky, and has on it, in several places, scrubby withered wood. Altlioiii^li it soems bold, it is not high, as it is only to be seen from the quarter-deck of a 7l' gun-ship at 7 leagues' ilistance ; excepthig, however, the high lands of Le Have and Aqiologon, which have been seen 9 leagues oil". When Aspotogon highland, which has a long level appearance, bears North, distant G leagues, an E.N.E. \ E. course will carrv to Sat evel appt' nbro' Li' i iy-hl house. The entrance of the harbour is between Chebucto Head and Sambro' Island on the western, and Devil's and Macnab's Islands on the eastern side. Sambro' Idand is small 8 HALIFAX. h and rocky, lies 4 miles S.W. of Cliebucto Head, and is surrounded by a multitude of rocks and shoals, bearing the general name of Sambro* Ledges, through and among which are deep water passages, but too intricate for a stranger to attempt. To avoid thein, give the island a berth of at least 3 miles. Pilots may bo obtained from Sambro Island, and if a vessel fires a gun during a fog, it will be answered therefrom. Devil's Island lies close olf Ilartland Point, is small and rocky, and connected with the main by a flat nearly dry at low tide ; in passing give it a berth of \ of a mile or more. MacnaVs, or Cornwallis Island, forms the eastern side of the channel into the harbour, and is connected with the eastern shore by a flat of 8 to 12 feet, upon which is situated the little island named Lawler. The passage on this side of the island, named the Soutli-east Passage, is too shallow and confined to be used by any but boats, so that vessels always use the western passage into the harbour. From the south end of the island a shoal extends about \\ mile to the southward, and upon this fiat there is a small island, named the Thrum Cap. Northward of Macnab's Island is George Island, a small island lying nearly in mid-channel opposite the town. Close off it there are 4 to 8 fathoms, and in the channel between it and the town are 8 and 14 fathoms, while to the eastward of it are from 10 to 14 fathoms; both channels being free from danger to within a cable's length of either shore. Lights. — Sambro' Island has a white octagon-shaped lighthouse upon the middle of it 60 feet high, showing a fixed light at 115 feet above the level of the sea, visible 20 or 21 miles. On the southern end of Devil's Island there is a building painted brown, with a white belt, from which a light, appearing red towards the sea, is shown at the height of 45 feet above high water, visible about 8 miles. From this island pilots may be obtained. Near the extremity of Maugher's Beach, a gravel spit extending from the middle of the western side of Macnab's Island, there is a white circular tower having a red roof, from which a fixed light is shown at the height of 58 feet above the sea, visible 10 miles. When Sambro' Light bears W.S.W., this light should not be brought to the westward of North, and it will clear the Portuguese, Rock Head, and Thrum Cap Shoals. Dangebs. — The rocky promontory of Chebucto Head, south-westward of which, and around Sambro' Island, are numerous rocks and shoals, must always be carefully ap- proached when entering the harbour from the westward. The assistance of local knowledge is absolutely requisite to enable you to sail among these dangers, and, therefore, a stranger should give Sambro* Island a berth of 3 or 4 miles in passing, and Hot attempt any of the channels inside them. Bell /^or/t.— This is a small rock of 6 feet, lying /^ of a mile from the shore, nearly midway between the entrance to Catch Harbour and Chebucto Head. In a northerly direction, towards the coast, it has a spit of 'i\ fathoms, extending Irom it a Bhort distance, but in other respects it is steep-to, there being 7 and 8 fathoms close to its eastern, and 13 and 24 fathoms close to its western, side. Between it and the shore there are 14 and 8 fathoms, but no ship should attempt to pass inside it, on account of the datigerous rocks, named Duck and Duncan Reefs, which extend from the land and nearly block up the passage. Bell Rock bears IVom the extremity of Chebucto Head nearly S.S.W. \ W. one mile, and from White Head, the east point of Catch Harbour, E. \ N. about ^ a mile. To avoid it on the east side, do not go to the westward of the line of Sandwich Point in one with Chebucto Head, about N. \ E., as that mark will carry you clear of it, and also to the eastward of the Sisters, and tlie other ledges in the vicinity of Sambro' Island. Portuguese Shoal. — This is a small shoal of 4^ or 5 fathoms, the outermost of those lying before the entrance to the harbour. It lies 3 miles S.W. \ VV. from the light- house on Devil's Island; 4 miles S. ^ E. from the lighthouse on Maugher's Beach; and 2^ miles N.E. \ N. from the extremity of Chebucto Head. Close-to it all round are 6 and 7 fathoms. Its western side is marked by a black buoy, lying with George Island open a little westward of the light on Maugher's Beach. Rock Head. — This shoal lies nearly J of a mile to the E.N.E. of the buoy on the Portuguese Shoal. It is about \ of a mile in extent, and has 3^ to 4^ fathoms upon it, with 6 to 10 fathoms close-to all round. To clear it, as well as the Portuguese Shoal on the east side, bring Sambro' Lighthouse Island open east of White Head, bearing S.W. ^ W. A black buoy with white bell and frame is placed on its south- eastern side. HALIFAX. 9 Lichjield Rock. — Tliis small shoal lies on the western side of the approach to the liarboiu- at ralher more than f of a mile from the shore, in the direction of S.E. by S. ^ S. from the mouth of Herrinif Cove. It has upon it 2 j fathoms, and there are 9 to 10 and 17 fathoms at a short distance from it, the deepest water being between it aud the coast, wliere there is as much as 20 fathoms. It is marked by a white beacon buoy, moored on its eastern side. Neverfail Shoal. — This is a shoal of 4i- fathoms, lying in the middle of the appi'oach to the harbour, at nearly midway between the Lichfield Rock and the Thrum Cap Shoal. It has 5 and 6 fathoms immediately around it, and, we believe, at present is not mjirkcd by a buoy. You may sail between it and the Lichfield Rock by bringing the flag-staff of the Citadel open east of Sandwich Point, bearing N. \ W., or, between it and Thrum Cap Shoal, by bringing George Island open a little to the westward of Mangher's Beach Lighthouse. Mars' Rock. — This rock lies southward of and under Sandwich Point, the western point of the harbour, at from \ to -3 a mile from the land. On its shoalest ])art there are 2\ fathoms, and immediately around it are 8 and 10, deepening to ID and 20 fathoms. Its eastern edge is marked by a white beacon buoy. Thrum Cap Shoal. — This is a shallow flat of 1| to 3 fathoms, extending a mile to the S.S.W. from the south end of Macnab's Island, on the eastern side of the liarbour. It must be carefull}' avoided when making the harbour from the eastward, aud tlie red beacon buoy on its edge should always be passed on its south side. Maujher's Beach. — From the south side of this beach a flat of 2^- to 4^ fathoms extends about ^ a mile, and has on it, near the extremity, a patch of 3^ fathoms. To clear this flat when running into the harbour, bring the Roman Catholic Chapel, at Dartmouth, in one with the east point of George Island, bearing N, ^ E., and you will avoid it in 10 or 11 fathoms. There is also a shoal running l-g- cable's length off from the northern side of the beach, and named the Horse Shoe Reef. The Middle Ground is a small gravelly patch of 4^ fathoms, 13'ing right in the fair- way of the channel, with Maugher's Reach Lighthouse bearing S.E. by S. j S., distant y of a mile ; close-to all round are 6 and 7 fathoms. It extends East and West a cable's length, and is about 30 fathoms broad ; as you fall off to the eastward of it you will have from 7 to 13 fathoms water, muddy bottom, while on the west side there are from 10 to 14 fathoms, coarse aud rocky bottom. Pleasant Shoal extends from Pleasant Point nearly half way over towards the north-west end of Macnab's Island. There are but 3 and 4 feet over it in many parts, but its extremity is marked by a white buoy which should always be left on the port hand in entering. lleed^s Rock, a small rock having 4 feet over it, lies in-shore, about half way between Point Pleasant and Halifax. The thwart-mark for it is a farm-house in the wood over a black rock on the shore, bearing W. by S. There are 5 and 7 fathoms around it, and a white beacon buoy is moored off its eastern side. Ives Knoll has but one foot of water over its centre, and from 9 to 15 feet on other parts ; it lies off the north end of Macnab's Island, .separated therefrom by a narrow channel 4 and 5 fathoms deep, and on its western side there is a red buoy, moored opposite the white one marking Reed's Rock. Belleisle Spit extends \ of a mile from the shore at the south end of Halifax, oppo- site the south point of George Island, and has a white beacon buoy on its outer edge. One-fourth of a mile further in, on the same side, is the white beacon buoy on the edge of the Leopard Shoal. Directions. — No vessel ought to attempt the harbour of Halifax without having a local pilot on board. In the event of not being able to get one, the following direc- tions may be serviceable. Ill sailin(f into Halifax Harbour from the tvcstward, yon should advance to the eastward so as to pass Sambro' Lighthouse at the distance of a league, taking care not to approach nearer to it on account of the various dangers in its vicinity. When the lightiiouse comes to the westward of N.N.W. you may proceed N.E. or N.E. ^ N. about 4^ miles, which will bring you off Chebucto Head. Here you will brln<» the leading mark on, which is the Citadel Flagstaff, just open of Point Sandwich, N.^ W., and, by keeping them thus open, you will pass between the Portuguese black buoy, aud the Nevcrlail and Thrum Cap Shoals on the starboard, and Lichfield white beacon buoy on the port hand, up to the white bciicon buoy on the edge of Mars' Rock, which must be left also on the port side by opening the flagstaff a little more to the eastward. 10 HALIFAX. Sandwich Pulnt, wliicli is bold-to, may now bo approached, and passed at the distance of a cable's length, and bj' keeping Chebucto Head a little open of Sandwich Point, about R. V W. you will continue in the fairway up to George Island, leaving the Middle Ground a little on j-our eastern side, and the white buoys on Pleasant 8hoal and Eecd's Rock on j-our western. Or, when up with Mars' Eock buoy, you may haul to the eastward and bring Dartmouth lioman Catholic Chapel in one Avith the east point of George Island, N. i E., which will load in between Maugher's Beach or Light- house IJank and the Lliddle Ground, u]) to abreast the town, passing the red buoy on Ives Knoll on the starboard side, and ihe white ones on Pleasant Shoal, Eeed's Hock, and Uelleisle Spit on the port side. Or, when abreast of Chebucto Head, or when Sambro* light bears W.S.W., the light on ]\Iaugher's Beach should never be brought to the westward of North. Keeping the light from North to N. by E. will lead in clear of all the shoals, except the Neverfail, up to abreast Sandwich Point. Those advancing from the westward will see the light on jMaugher's Beach, when they are as far up as Chebucto Head; it is then a good mark up to Sandwich Head. Li saiUnjf into Halifax Harbotiv from the eastward,* especially with an easterly wind, and intending to pass in between the Kock Head and Thrum Cap Shoals, steer towards Devil's Island, leave it \ a mile to the northward, and steer West, making due allowance ibr the influence of the tide. If this course be made good j'ou will pass above a mile northward of tlie bell buoy on the south end of Bock Head Shoal, and one- third of a mile southward of the red buoy oil" the south-west end of the Thrum Cap. As soon as George Island appears open westward of Maugher's Lighthouse, haul up and proceed on that line of bearing, and as you near Sandwich Point, open the island gradually more to the westward, till the lloman Catholic Chapel comes in line with the east end of George Island, then proceed as before directed. In turning to windward, give the upper or inner part of Maugher's Beach a berth of 2 cables' lengths, in order to avoid the Horse-Shoe Beef, that runs from the north part of the beach to the distance of 1^ cable's length. You may stand to the Sandwich Point side to within two ships' length, that being bold-to; but stand no farther over to the westward, to avoid Point Pleasant Shoal, than keeping Chebucto Head well in Bight without Sandwich Point. When up with George Island pass it on either side, as most convenient, giving it a berth of 80 or 100 lathoms, and choose your anchorage at pleasure, in from 13 to 6 fathoms, muddy bottom. From George Island into Bedford Basin there is no obstruc- tion to shipping, if a moderate berth be given to the shores. Ships of war usually anchor oft" the Naval Yard, which may bo distinguished at a distance by the masting sheers. Merchant-vessels discharge and take in their cargoes at the town-wharves. Small vessels, from the eastward, occasionally proceed to Halifax by the S.E. pas- sage, within Macnab's Island, and on the eastern side of Lawler's. On the shoalest part of the bar of sand, which obstructs this passage, there are, however, but 8 feet at low water. Above the bar the depth increases to 5 and 10 fathoms, bottom of mud. On the bar of the channel between Mucnab's and Lawler's Islands there are but 3 feet at low water. Herring Cove, on the western side of the harbour, \\ mile south-westward of Sand- wich Point, has an entrance about 100 lalhoms wide, and quite bold on either side, with 7, 5, and 4 fathoms up to the elbow that Ibrins the inner cove, where small ves- sels may lie in perfect security in a depth of 7 to 9 feet. In Macnab's Cove, formed by an iudeut of the island on the northern side of Maugher's Beach, tlicro is good anchorage in from 9 to 4 fathoms, muddy bottom. The * It is snitl that there is great difflcuUy in maklnL.' Halifiix from tlic eastward, particularly in tho winter season, in consequence of tlie winds beinff too frequently from the W.S.AV. to N.W., and blowint; so liard as to reduce a ship to very low canvas, if not to bare poles, and should the wind come to tlie eastward, it is invariably attended with such thick weather as to prevent an observation, or seeing to any f^reat dii-tance : hence, under sucli circumstances, it would be imprudent to run for the sliore, more particularly in winter, when the easterly winds are attended with sleet and snow, wliieli lodi;e about the maitH, sails. ri<«iiuj;-, nnd every part ol' the ship, bocomin;;- a solid body of ice so soon as the wind shifts round to the N.W., which it does suddenly from the eastward. These are circumstances of real dilliiulty ; and it lias been recommended, in such a case, to run far to the south-westward (avoidins- the CI ulf Stream), and tlitnce from llie S.W. coast, to keep the Bhorc ou board, ull the way to Halifax. SAMBEO' HAKBOUE. 11 distance ch Point, ving the lit Shoal nay haul the east or Light- buoy on el's liock, the light cping the Neverfail, see the US then a n easterly >als, steer aking duo will pass , and one- rum Cap. , haul up the island e with the ch a berth the north Sandwich rtlicr over ad well in giving it a n 13 to 6 10 obstruc- ished at a ir cargoes S.E. pas- e shoalcst t 8 feet at ii of mud. but 3 leet i of Sand- ither side, small ves- rn side of ttom. Tho ularly in tho ) N.W., aiul lid the wind observation, (lent to run th sleet ami a solid body rte rastwnrd. case, to run to keep the ^ best spot is represented to be in 7 fathoms, with the extremity of Jlaui^hor's Beach touchini:,' Sandwich Point, and the tower on George Island touching Ives Point, Mr. Davy, R.N"., of H.M.S. Cornwallis, made tlie following remarks v.hile proceed- ing from Halifax to Quebec. The Cornwallis left Halifax on Juno Itli, 1838 : — " Wind north with fine weather, sailed with Pearl, Doe, and Charybdis for the Gut of Canso. Passed out between the Thrum Cap and Rock Head Shoals to within a cable's length of the Thrum Cap buoy, having 10 fathoms water; this channel is quite safe. Being thus clear, 27 miles led us to the southward of the Jedore Shoals ; then East for White Head, wind and weather looking favourable. Just to the east- ward of Cole Harbour* is a remarkable red cliff, making in a well-formed saddle ; the red is bright, and the eastern coast, thereby, is easily recognised ; while the coast to the westward of Halifax is known by its white cliffs. It is advisable for strangers running from Jedore to Canso, not to approach the coast nearer than 10 miles, until abreast of Tor Bay. This is a spacious bay, having Berry Head at its western point and Cape Martingo at its eastern, 5 miles apart. White Head Island, immediately to the eastward of Tor Bay, is the most remarkable land on the coast, and is as a beacon to the pilots; it stands well out, and from the westward terminates the eastern view. Being 10 miles south of it, steer N.E. by E. for Canso Lighthouse, which is a tall wliite building, and makes well out to seaward, on a small low island, named Cran- berry Island, It exhibits good fixed lights, which must be brought to bear West before keejiing away; then steer N.N.W., until George Island bears West, thence N.W. and N.N.W, for Cape Argos, avoiding the Cerberus Shoal, which is very dangerous, and directly in the track ; leave it on your port hand. Cape Argos makes like a round island, and is bold to approach ; passing this, the distance across the gut becomes nar- rowed to 1^ mile."— iVrtM^. Mar/., 1839, p. 299. Catch Hahbour. — At 1^ mile south-westward of Chebucto Head is the small harbour or cove named Catch Harbour, which has a bar of 9 feet at low water, right aci'oi-s the entrance, over which the sea breaks heavily, when the wind blows on shore. Within the bar there are 2 and 2J- fathoms. This harbour is too small, and the access to it is too diflicult, to allow it to be frequented by any but the smallest vessels. At its head there is a stream of good fresh water. Coast »vestwabd of Halifax. — On the coast from Halifax, westward, to Mar- garet's JJii}^, the country appears, from the offing, very rocky, with numerous inlets, the shore being steep-to, and bounded with white rocky cliffs. The high lands of Aspo- togon, on the east side of Mahone Bay, are very remarkable; and proceeding eastward from Mahone Bay the rocks which surround the shore are black, witli some banks of red earth. Between Cape Le Have (which is a remarkable promontory, 107 feet above tho sea, bald on the top, with a red bank under it, facing the south-w^estward) and I'ort Metway, there are some hummocks inland, about which the country appears low and level from the sea ; and, on the shore, white rock and stony beaches, with several low bald points ; hence to Shelburne Harbour the land is woody. About the entrance of Port Latour, and within land, are several barren spots, which, from the oiling, are easily discerned ; thence, to Cape Suble, the land appears level and low, and on the shore are some cliffs of exceedingly white sand, particularly at the entrance to Port Latour, and at Cape Sable, where they are very conspicuous from tlie sea. SAMBRO' HARBOUR.— This harbour lies 1| mile to the N.N.W. of Sambro' Island. The Bull Rock, already noticed, lies off its entrance, and there are other rocks between the latter and Sambro' Island. The best channel into it is, theref«)re, between Pennant Point and the Bull Rock ; but vessels from the eastward may run up between Iimer Sambro' Island and the Fairweather Rock, An islet, named the Isle of Man, lies within tho entrance, and must be left, when sailing inwards, on the Jell, or port hand. Tho anchorage is above this islet, in 4 to 5 fathoms, muddy bottom. This place is generally the resort of coasters in bad weather. From the anchorage you may run through the narrow passage in 2 anu 3 lathoms water, and so enter Sambro' Basin. The passages between the rocks and ledges lying to the southward of Sambro' Har- bour may oftentimes conduce to tho safety of vessels making the land by mistake so far to the westward of the light as to be unable to clear the dangers southward of it, but * A very shallow bay 4 miles eastward of Devil's li^land. 12 MAEGAEET'S BAT. 1 1 1 I ■'^ should be attempted only in cases of emergency ; the depth of water is sufficient for the largest ships, but grout prudence is required. PENNANT HARBOUlt (named Port Affleck by Des Banes) is situated round tlio point to the westward of Port Sambro', but, although it possesses good anchorage, it is but little frequented. The islands on the western side of it are bold-to, the groimd is good, and the depth of water is generally i'rom 5 to 10 ftvthoms. It is extensive, and sai'e in bad weather, and the dangers are all visible. At its further end there is an inlet named Dagge Cove. TENANT BAY (or Bristol Bay), between Pennant Harbour and Tenant Basin (Shuldham Harbour of Des Barres), has an entrance obstructed by several rocks and islets, but, once gained, it is extensive atid safe ; and in bad weather the dangers show themselves. There is anchorage in 9 fathoms ; the ground a tough blue clay.^ When entering, the land presents, to the eye of the stranger, the rudest features of nature. It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at 7h. 45m., and the tides rise above 8 feet, PROSPECT HARBOUR is situated about 2J miles to the westward of Tenant Bay, from which it is separated by a large cluster of islands and broken land, the outer extremity of which is named Cape Prospect, or Mars' Head. On approaching, Prospect Harbour presents a rugged, broken appearance, but it is safe and extensive, and in rough weather the dangers mostly show themselves. Vessels coining from the eastward and rounding Cape Prospect, must beware of a rock with 17 feet over it, lying South, about one-third of a mile from the cape; go not between it and the cape, but proceed on its southern side in 20 and 21 fathoms water, and by keeping more than half a mile from the land you will steer quite clear of danger, and may sail boldly up its eastern channel between Prospect and Betsy's Islands ; having passed these, the channel narrows : the western passage is between Hobson's Nose and Dorman's Rock. There is good anchorage for large ships above Pyramid Island, and also for small vessels, within Betsy's Island, in 4| fathoms, stiff blue clay. There is a breaker, with 3 fathoms over it, at the distance of two cables' lengths to the eastward of Dor- man's Rock. SHAG HARBOUR (Lcith Harbour of Des Barres), the next westward of Prospect Harbour, is the N.E. arm of an inlet, of which the N.W. arm is Blind Bay; in both excellent anchorage may be (bund. The Hog, a sunken rock, lies in the common entrance without, and has only 6 feet of water over it ; it bears S.E. ^ E., nearly 1^- mile from Taylor's Island (Inchkeith). In rough weather, with the wind on shore, the sea breaks over it; and, in fair weather, it may be perceived by the rippling of the tide. There is a good channel on either side, but that on the west side is the most difficult, there being a ledge extending half a mile towards it, E.S.E. from the eastern extremit}' of Taylor's Island. DOVER PORT lies on the western side of the entrance to Blind Bay : it is formed by Taylor's Island and several other islands, and affords good and safe anchorage. The eastern passage is the best, and when sailing in, give a berth to the reef, which extends S.E., half a mile, from Taylor's Island. The anchorage is within the body of Taylor's Island, in 10, 9, or 7 fathoms, muddy bottom. The western entrance, at the west end of Taylor's Island, has numerous sunken rocks in it, and the water being shallow it should not be attempted. The coasts,^ between Halifax and tliis place, are cragg}', broken, and barren ; the sliore also is iron-bound and steep, and a tree is scarcely to bo seen. Fish, however, are abundant, and the harbours are conveniently situated for the tishery. MARGARET'S BAY. — This bay is about 25 miles in circumference, 9 miles in length, and with an entrance about 2 miles wide. The water in it is deep, and in various parts of it there are harbours capable of receiving the largest vessels, which may frequently lie close to the shore. On the west side of the entrance is the high land of Aspotogon, the summit of which, estimated to be 438 feet above the sea, is very conspicuous, and may be seen 18 to 25 miles off, so that it is a good mark lor this part of the coast. If brought to bear N.W. (true) this high land will lead directly to the entrance of the bay. The land on either side of the entrance consists of high rocky cliifs, which are steep-to, with deep water of G to 10 fathoms immediately off them : it is not, however, prudent to go close to the shore, as the examination of the bay wsis but indiiferently executed, and there may be sunken dangers unfound by the sur- veyors. The principal anchoring places iu the bay are Head, Hubbert's, and North- west Harbours. On South- half a I rough danger vessels mid-ch Ont water, And South- water, bad w( At MargJi feet h it am southe AtU a com MAEaARET'S BAY. 13 On tlio western side of the entrance to Margaret's Bay is a small rocky island, named Sonth-west or Holderncss Island, which is about 50 leet high, and steep-to. At nearly half a mile to the eastward of this is a 4-fathom danger, on which the sea breaks in rough weather; but as there is so much water over it, it can scarcely be called a danger, except to deeply-laden vessels. Between South-west Island and the shore small vessels may pass, but care is necessary to avoid a patch of 3 fathoms, lying nearly ia mid-channel. On the eastern side of the entrance to the bay, there is a rock which dries at low water, lying about 300 yards from East Point, and having close to it 5 and 7 fathoms. And in the middle of the entrance to the bay, at about 1-J- mile to the southward of South-west Island, is a ledge of rocks named the Horse-shoe, part of which is above water, shelving on all sides ; this rocky ledge has 6 and 8 fathoms close to it, and in bad weather the sea breaks over it with considerable violence. At about 2y miles to the northward of East or May Point, on the eastern side of Margaret's Bay, is Peggy's Point, and at a mile beyond this is Shut-in Island 208 feet high, which is covered with wood and bold-to ; but there are two ledges between it and the inner part of Peggy's Point, over which the depths are 8 and 9 feet. In a southerly gale the water is smooth on the lee side of the island, and the bottom good. At 1^ mile, N.E. ^ N., from Shut-in Island is a smaller isle, named Luke's, forming a complete break to the sea, and used as a sheepfold ; there is good anchorage on the N.E. side of it, smooth in all seasons ; this, therefore, is a usual place of shelter. Within two miles northward of Luke's Isle ai*e the Strelitz Isles of Des Barrcs, but the principal of these are now named Jollimore's Isles. A reef extends north-eastward from the latter, and the land within forms the harbour named Hertford Basin, wherein the depths are from 7 to 10 fathoms, and the anchorage is safe under the lee of Jolli- more's Isles. Head Harbour, or Delaware River, situated in the N.E. corner of the bay, is an excellent anchorage, and so safe a place that a fleet might be securely moored in it side by side, and unaffected even by a hurricane. The lands are high and broken, and Moser Islands, at the entrance, are used as sheepfolds. Huhherfs Cove, the Fitzroy River of Des Barres, is situated in the N.W. corner of the bay, and may be entered by a stranger, by keeping the western shore on board : and a ship dismasted or in distress may here find shelter. If without anchors, she may safely run aground, and will be assisted by the settlers. At the entrance of the cove, towards the eastern side, is a ridge of rocks named Hubbert's Ledge (Black Ledge), which is about 100 fathoms in extent, and covered at high water : it may be passed on either side, keeping the land on board, the shores being bold. Long Cove (Egremont Cove) is 2^ miles to the southward of Hubbert's Cove, and affoids good anchorage with a westerly wind. To the southward of Long Cove the coast is bold and rugged, without any danger, except a small rock, of 6 feet watei", which lies close in to the land. North-west Harbour is situated about a league to the southward of Long Cove, and its entrance is divided into two channels by a small island named Horse Island. On either side of the island there is a good passage with 10 fathoms water ; and good anchorage, adapted for small vessels, may be obtained behind it, in from 6 to 9 fathoms, or farther up, in 5, 4, or 3 fathoms. The south point of entrance to North- west Buy is formed by Owl's Head, which is an abrupt precipice, with deep water close to it. To the north-westward of South-west Island is what is commonly named the South-west Harbour, which is formed by Owl's Head and the shore. Owl's Head is literally a rocky island, sepai'ated from the main by a very narrow passage, not even navigable for boats. Here are 5, 6, and 7 fathoms water; but the place is seldom frequented. Vessels from the eastwai'd bound for Margaret's Bay, usually go in between the Horse-shoe and East Point. A northerly course will carry you midway between right up to the head of the bay, without encountering any danger, except those already described. ASPOTOGON HARBOUR.— This harbour lies to the westward of South-west Island, but is too shallow for ships. At its entrance are Bla^k, Saddle, and Gravelly Islands and Shoals, to the southward of which is Seal Ledge, a shallow and dangerous shoal lying W. | N., 2f miles from the Horse-shoe, and W.S.W. ^ S., 3 miles, I'rom the southern part of South-west Island, 14 MAIIOXE BAY. Iway between Iron-bound and Green Islands, but its exact position inown, and therefore it is omitted in the charts. The probable to be guarded against; there is otherwise water ought At tho distance of 5 miles, W.S.W. -^ S., from the south point of South-west Island is Iron-bound Island, which is about a mile long, narrow, and ste(.'p-to. It lies S.S.E. ?, S., l.\ mile from New Harbour Point, tho extremity of the peninsula which divides ^largaret's and JVIahonc iJays ; between is a good channel of from to 17 fathoms water, the ground consisting chiclly of black mud. Green Island, which is small, lies S. I E., 3 miles, from Iron-bound Island ; S.W. by S., 7 miles, from South-west Island; W.S.W., 9 miles, from Taylor's Island; and W.N.W. ^ W. from abreast of Sambro' Lighthouse. There is said to be a shoal of only 2 fathoms, midv is not accurately known, existence of such a danger sufficiently deep for any vessel. MABOZO'Z: BATS is divided from Margaret's Bay by tho peninsula, on which stand the high lands of Aspotogon, the appearance of which in three regular swellings is very remarkable at a great distance in the offing. This bay extends nearly 4 leagues from !N.E. to S.W.,' and contams numerous islands and rocks, the largest of which. Great and Little Tancook Islands, are on the eastern side. Green Island, above mentioned, lies without the entrance ; another small isle, named Duck Isle, is situated on the opposite side ; and a larger, named Cross Island, is situated more to the westward. There is a channel, one mile in breadth, between the two latter. The Outer Ledge, which always breaks, lies N.E. ^ E., If mile, from the east end of Duck Island, and W. | N., 3 miles, from the west point of Green Island. The Bull Rock, another danger, lying at a mile to the southward of Great Tancook, bears from Green Island N.W. ^ W., 4^ miles, and from the east end of Duck Island N. ^ E., 4 miles : this rock is visible at one-third ebb, and from it the S.W. end of Flat Island bears E. by N., 1200 fathoms distant, and tho west point of Tancook Island N. by W., If mile distant. Further up, N.W. by W., 400 fathoms distant from tho west point of Tancook Island, lies Rocky Shoal, between which and Tancook Island there is deep water. At l-j- mile north of Great Tancook is a sunken ledge, named the Coachman, which is visible at low water only ; the east ends of Great Tiincook and Flat Island in one will lead you clear on the east side of this ledge ; the west end of Iron-bound Island open with the west point of Little Tancook will lead you clear to the southward ; and Governess Island on with the west point will cai'ry you safe on its north side. At the head of Mahone Bay are a number of little islands, more or less connected together by rocky reefs. Behind these islands is the small town of Chester, having in its vicinity a fertile and well-wooded country. Among the islets there is good anchorage, and here vessels frequenting the bay generally ride ; the various anchorages, however, require care to get to them. To run into Mahone Bay, you ought to have a pilot on board, as an attempt to do so without cannot be unattended with risk. When approaching from the eastward, the first land seen will be Green Island, which is round, bold, and moderately high. Hence to Iron-bound and Flat Islands, both steep-to, the distance is about 3 miles ; passing these you proceed to and between the Tancook Islands, which are inhabited : the passage is good, and there is anchorage, under the isles, in from 12 to 7 fathoms. On proceeding towards Chester, the only danger is the ledge named the Coachman, above mentioned. Chester Church open of the west side of Great Tancook, leads clear to the westward of the Bull Rock, and down to Duck Island. The islands off the town render the water in the harbour smooth and pleasant ; when within, the depth is from 5 to 2 fathoms. It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon, in Margaret's and Mahone Bays at 8h. ; and the vertical rise of tide is from 7 to 8 feet. LUNENBURG OR MALAGUASH BAY.— This bay lies outside the entrance to Mahone Bay on the western side, and is about 3J miles in extent, with a depth of water over its surface of 10 to 7, decreasing to G and 5 fathoms, which latter depth is at its head. Although the bay is easy of access, yet the assistance of a pilot ought to be obtained when running in, as there are several dangers to be avoided, Ibr which of course local knowledge will be the best guide. At the entrance to the bay is Cross Island, which is about 30 feet high, and has on its north-east side a nook, where coasters may lie securely. The Hounds' Rocks lie oflf this part, and must have a berth in passing. The west and south sides of the island are bold, and there is an excellent fishing-bank at 2 miles from its southern end, on LE IIAA'E EIVEE. 15 which are from 11 to 17 fathoms wator. Oil tlie S.E. point of tlio ishind is a litjlilhouse, ill hit. li-' 20' X., and lon^. Gt^ 7' W. The tower is of an octaijonal shape, painted red, with two li.iL,'ht>! phiced verticall}', 33 feet apart. The lower litjht i« lixed, and tho u|)per ono llasliea at iiid-rvals of a minute, appearin:j brij,'iit 15" and dark 15". The liglithouso is a station fui [lilots. In sailinjj into Luniniburg Bay, you may pass on eitlior side of Cross Island ; but tho cliannel on tlie west side of tho island is the l)est, as it is the widest. In sailing throu':o 11 fathoms; but there is a bar, which renders this place totally imfit for affording shelter to any but the smallest class of vessels. RUGGED ISLAND HARBOUR seems to have been so named from its craggy and rugged appearance, and the numerous dangerous ledges and sunken rocks at its entrance. This place is seldom resorted to, unless by the fishermen, on account of the difficulty of access, although, within, the anchorage is good, in 4g and 4 fathoms ; strangers must, therefore, in all cases, take a pilot. In a gale of wind, the uneven rocky ground at the entrance causes the sea to break from side to side. At a mile from the western head is a bed of rocks, named the Gull, over which the sea always breaks.* Thoinas, or Rugged Island, to the east of the harbour, affords a good mark for it, this island having high rocky cliffs on its eastern side; from its southern point sunken recks extend to the S.W. nearly a mile, and within those is the Tiger, a rock of only 4 feet, lying South, half a mile from Rug Point, the eastern point of the harbour. Having cleared these on the outside, haul up to the N.N.W, for the islands on the left or western side, in such a manner as to avoid a shoal which stretches hall- way over from the eastern side. Pursuing this direction, you may proceed to the anchorage iii tlie north arm of the harbour. To the westward of Rugged Island Harbour is Green Harbour, having an island on the western tide of the entrance, and running in fully 3 miles : this and the River Jordan, situated still further to the westward, appear to be places where good anchoniges may be obtained, but they are at present little frequented by shipping, althougli they have many inhabitants. They are open to Boutherly winds, which cause a heavy rolhng sea. SHEL13URNE HARBOUR, or Port Roseway.- Cape Roseway,the S.E. point of Rosent'ath or Macnutt's Island, is a high cliff of white rocks, the top of which is partly without wood. The west side of the island is low. The lighthouse on the capo is painted black and white in vertical stripes, and exhibits two fixed lights vertically, by which it is distinguished at night from the light of Sambro', or that at Ilaliliix. Thn upper light is about 1(X) feet above the level of tlie sea, and the sniaUer light is 02 feet. The latitude of this lighthouse is 43° 37' 31" ; longitude, 05" 10' 30". Mr. Backhouse has given the following directions for tliis harbour : — " When coming in from the ocean, after you have made the lightliouse, bring it to boar N.W,, or N. W. by N., and steer directly for it. The dangers that lie on the east side, going in, are the Rugged Island Rocks, a long Icdg- that stretches out from the f^atcr takes place at 8h. on the days of full and change ; springs rise 7 feet, neaps 5^, and neaps range 4 feet. The light on Boccaro Point has been described on page 19. Vessels from the eastward should round Boccaro Point at a berth of 2 miles or more, but be very careful to avoid the Brazil Rock, before described, and when the lighthouse bears N.E. by E. 2 miles distant, you will be in a depth of 13 or 14 fathoms, and have the Bantam Rocks midway between ycm. and the lighthouse, and should steer N. ^ W. 5 miles, giving either shore a berth of y of a mile, to avoid the shoals extending from them. This course will carry you up to abreast Clam Point, the eastern end of a small island, then haul up N.W. by N. towards the Lighthouse Rock, and continue so for Ij mile, and you will be in a depth of 5 or 6 fathoms, where you may anchor. To l)roceed to Barrington a pilot is requisite. It is said, however, that the channel may generally be discovered by the water appearing dark ; even then it will require a lead- ing wind to wind through it, and it is therefore much safer to obtain such aid. If from the westward, give Cape Sable a berth of 3 miles, and steer towards Boccaro lighthouse, bring it to bear N.E. by E. distant 2 miles, and proceed as before. The eastern side of Cape Sable Island should not be approached nearer than Ij or 2 miles till Boccaro lighthouse comes to the southward of E.S.E., because of the numerous rochy ledges detached and extending from the shore. Oil the north-western side of Cape Sable Island there is a passage up to the head of Jiarrington Bay, but tlie extensive flats adjoining the opposite snores, together with the numerous rocky heads, render the channel so narrow and winding that none but small vessels, with a commanding breeze, and under the guidance of local knowledge, ever run in by it. Directions would, therefore, be useless. Besides which, the tide of «bb is forced unnaturally through to the eastward, by the Bay of Fundy tide, at the rapidity of 3, 4, and sometinicB 5 knots an hour. CAPB SABXiB. — Cape Sable is the south-eastern extremity of a small narrow island, which is separated and distinct from Cape Sable Island. The cape is white, broken, evidently ditninishing, and may be seen at the distance of 5 leagues. Two rocky ledger extend 1^ mile southward from the cajie, upon which the general depths are 3^ to 5 fathoms, but there are three much shallower sjiots, with only 7, 12, and 15 feet water over then>. About IJ mile westward of the cape, and extending 2 miles southward from Blaok Head, is another ledge, the outer part of which bears the name of S.W. Ledge, and has on it one or two heads of rock, wliich beoome dry 3 or 4 feet «t low water of spring tides, and others just awash at that time. These ledges aio exceedingly dangerous, particularly as the tides, both flood and ebb, set directly across them at the rate of 3 and sometimes 4 miles an hour, causing u strong break to a con- PUBNICO HARBOUE. n m Biderable distance, particularly when the wind is fresh ; it will then often extend fnlly 3 leagues out, shifting its direction with the tide, the flood carr^'ing it to the westward, and the ebb to the eastward ; the former running a considerable time longer than the latter. This rippling, or breaking of the water, may be considered hazardous to pass through in a gale of wind ; but there are not less than 14, 16, 18, and 20 fathoms,- rocky ground, be3'ond the distance of 3 miles from the cape. Go no nearer at any t\m& to the cape than this, and you will avoid all the dangers lying off it. It is high water at Capo Sable, on the days of full and change of the moon, at 8h. 30m. ; spring-tides, rise 9 feet, neaps 7 feet, neaps range 4|- feet. Three miles north-westward of Cape Sable lies a small island 20 feet in height, ancfc named Green Island ; it is connected with the groiip of islets to the eastward by a ledge partly uncovered at low tide, and when approaching it from the southward do not bring it to bear northward of N.E. when you are withiti two miles of it, so as to avoid tho rocks between it and the S.W. Ledge. Green Island Bank has 4^ and 5 fathoms, and extends nearly east and west f of a mile, its centre being | of a mile W. bv N. from the island; close-to all round it are 6 and 8 fathoms. At 1^ mile N.E._i N. from Green Island is the entrance of the channel into Clarke Harbour, which runs ia south-eastward and southward about 1:^ mile between two extensive shoals, to the anchorage in 3 or 3^ fathoms ; it is too difficult for a stranger to discover, although it is frequented by the coasters and fishermen. SHAG BARBOVR. — The entrance to this harbour is 6 miles north-westward of Cape Sable. Ibthenrunsin to the northward between Stoddart Island on the eastern and Bon Portage Island on the western side, and is from 6 to 9 fathoms deep in the fairway. The best anchorage is in 5 or 6 fathoms 2^ miles above Stoddart Island ; just before reaching which, however, the channel becomes very narrow by the encroachment of tha shoals extending from both shores, and there is, besides, a small rock just awash at low water lying right in mid-channel. This rock may be avoided by bringing the house on the middle of the northern side of Stoddart Island just open eastward of a detached rock off Prospect Point. Hence to Cockerwit the channel is narrow, shallow, and winding, and the very small vessels that go up to that place, do so by the aid of local knowledge. Here it is high water on full and change days at 9h. ; springs rise lli^, neaps 8|, and neaps range 5 feet. The flood runs in northward and the ebb the contrary. CocKEuwiT Passage, the southern part of which forms Shag Hai'bour, is the channel inside the Bon Portage, Mutton, and St. John's Islands, its northern entrance being about 2 miles southward of Pubnico Harbour. It is too shallow in parts to be serviceable to any but small craft, and the masters of these must be acquainted witk the navigation to take them thrc gh in safety. Least depth, 7 to 9 feet. The western sides of the above islands should i.ave a good berth given them to avoid some shoals, and rocks, the outermost of which, named St. John's Ledge, has the sea mostly break- ing over it. PUBNICO BABBOVB is a very goodone.easyof access, and well situated for vessels- bound to the Bay of Fundy, which, in distress, may here find supplies as well as shelter. From the lighthouse on Seal Island to the entrance of Pubnico, the bearing and dis- tance are N^E. by E. 14| miles. The entrance, between St. Ann Point and the eastern phore, is nearly 1 mile wide, and from 6 to 12 fathoms deep. Hence the bay runs in (j) miles N. by E. ^ E., but is only 1 mile in average breadth, and the greater part of this space is occiipied by broad fiats uncovering at low water. Jlho channel up to Pub- nico is, therefore, narrow and winding, though not under 5 fathoms in depth till within 2^ miles of the head of the bay. High water takes place on full and change springs rise 12^- feet, neaps 10, and neaps range 5^j feet. ^ of the moon at 9h. 3m., .., „.. .^ , i- , l " . r i On Beach Point, ^ust within the entrance and on the eastern side ol" the channel, GO fathoms within low water mark, is a square white lighthouse, 27 feet high, from which a fixed light is shown at the height of 28 feet above high water, visible 8 miles. The red light kept open westward of St. John's Island clears St. John's Ledge, and when making for the harbour in any other direction the light must not bo brought ta the southward of E.S.E. .^ ^ , , Coming from the eastward for Pubnico, beware of the Brazil Rock, give Cape Sable a berth of not less than 3 miles, and steer N.W. by VV. 10 miles, then haul \ip N. by E., 9 miles, till abreast the south end of St. John's Island, making due allowance for the sot of the tidal stroamd, the flood running north-westward and the ebb south-east- oo THE TUSKETS AND MUD ISLANDS. war J, and also taking care not to approach the western side of Bon Portage and Mutton Islands nearer than i^ or 2 miles, or into less than 12 fathoms wat«r, always keeping Pubnico liirhthouse open westward of St. John's Island, and thereby avoid the St. Pubnico lighthouse open .John's Ledge, over which the sea generally breaks. Steer now N.E. i E. towards the lighthouse, leave it about a cable's length on your starboard side, and the buoy on the extremity of the rocks, just within the lighthouse, on your port hand; | of a mile N. by E. of this buoy is the best anchorage in from 6 to 10 fathoms, abreast Meres House. ., , ,. On sailing towards Pubnico, you pass St. John's Island, 2^ miles before you arrive at the entrance of the harbour ; the north side of the island affords good shelter during a S.E. gale; small vessels lie along the beach forming its eastern part. Coming from the southward and westward for Pubnico, remember the positions (pages 23 and 24) of the Blonde and Purdy Kocks, and the Elbow Shoal, off the south end" of Seal Island. A berth of 5 miles off the lighthouse will clear all, and you may, when that building bears N.N.W., steer N.E. by N. 13 or 14. miles, which will carry you up to abreast St. John's Island. Then haul up towards Beach Point lighthouse, and proceed as before. Tusket Biver, Sfc. — B2tween Pubnico Harbour and the Tusket Islands, the southern- most of which (Bald Tusket) bears W. by N. | N. 9| miles from St. Ann Point, there is an extensive bay with a great number of islands in it, through and among which several rivers form deep, but narrow and winding channels, the principal and also the westernmost being named the Tusket lliver, having on its right bank, 6| miles within the entrance, the Plymouth Settlement, nearly all the way up to which a depth of 3^ and 5 fathoms can be maintained. In the different reaches of this river good anchor- age may be had, but to go up to either will require the aid of a skilful pilot. Unless bound to one of these rivers, this bay should be avoided, for there are two or three out- lying dangers, the St. Ann Shoal, Gull Ledge, and S.W. Shoal, &c., which might prove fatal to a stranger. Beach Point lighthouse kept northwai'd of E.S.E. leads out- side all. THE TUSKETS, oe Tusket Isles, consist of a group lying off the extremity of the peninsula forming the western side of Tusket lliver, and 9| miles westward of Pubnico Harbour. Some of them are of considerable size, and there are many shoals and ledges among them, so that, although there are navigable channels between, no s^^rangor ought to attempt to pass through them. The southernmost, named Bald Tusket, is 50 feet high, and surrounded by a flat of from 6 to 12 feet. Southward and detached from this island and one another bj- deep water of from 10 to 17 fathoms, are three shallow spots, all of which may be distinguished by the tide rippling over them. The outermost and shallowest (12 feet), named Cleopatra Shoal, lies If mile S. by E. from the island. Between Cleopatra Shoal and Soldier Ledge there is a channel 2 miles wide and from 5 to 9 fathoms deep. The tide, however, occasions a heavy ripple, which might prove dangerous to small and deeply laden vessels. In the fairway the currents run, near tlio middle of each tide, about '2\ knots an hour, the flood in a north-west and the ebb in a south-east direction,or nearly that of the channel, and turn about 40 minutes after high and low water at Pubnico. To pass through this channel, southward of Cleopatra Shoal, from tlie entrance of Pubnico steer W. by N., and you will, if this course bo made good, pass out well to the northward of Soldier's Ledge and Jacko Ilidge. Soldier's Ledge. — The centre of this dangerous ledge bears S.W. by S. ;? S. 3^ miles from Bald Tusket, and'N.N.W. 23- miles Irom Flat Island, iW -r'-th- western- most of the Mud Islands. Its extent is about \ a mile in a north and MMtii direction, and breadth about -4 of a mile. Tlio shallowest or middle portion uncovers 2 hours after high water, and the sea may generally bo seen breaking over it, but on the other parts there are from 1 1 to 2^ fathoms, A flat of .'3.^ and 4 fathoms extends fully a mile further soutliward, and | of a mile further northward from the ledge; theuca nearly all the way towards the Western 'i'uskcts the tides produce a heavy rippling. Between Soldier Ledge and the Mud Islands the channel is 1^ mile wide, and from •IJ to G fathoms deep, but as the tides set athwart its direction, care should be taken to avoid being driven on tho former, or upon the ledges among the latter, over both of which they set with considerable strength. • THE MUD ISLES, sometimes called the North Seals, are a group of islets occupy- SEAL ISLAND. 2a ing a space of 3^ miles in extent from north to south, and 1^ mile in breadth. Com- luencing with the northernmost, they are named Flat, Hound, Mud, and Noddy. Kound Island, the highest of the cluster, attains an elevation of 25 feet, and is covered with wood, as is also Mud Island, the largest and central of the group. Among them are several passages with 2 and 3 fathoms in them, serviceable to coasters, and on their western side, f of a mile off Mud Island, lies the Black Ledge, which covers only at high water of spring tides, and has many shoal patches in its vicinity, the outermost, named Mud Island Shoal, having 4 fathoms over it, and distinguishable by a breaking sea in very heavy weather; it lies 2^ miles N.W. by.W. ^ W. from Noddy, the southernmost of the Mud Islands. The eastern side of these islands may be approached to within ^ a mile, and if requiring to anchor, moderate protection from a westerly wind may be had in 6 or 8 fathoms at that distance off the middle of Mud Island. With a south-easterly wind there is anchorage off the north-west side of Flat Island in 4| to 6 fathoms. Between the southernmost Mud Island and Seal Island there is a channel 2^ miles wide, mid from 8 to 18 fathoms deep, except on a shoal running a short mile southward from Noddy Island, over which are 5, 6, and 7 fathoms, and always a strong rippling of the tide. The ilood sets N.W. and the ebb S.E. in this channel, with a velocity near the middle of each tide of nearly 4 miles per hour. When sailing through it keep on the Seal Island side, on account of the above-menti(med overfalls. The course and distance to pass from Cape Sable to between Seal Island and the Mud Islands is N.W. by W. ; several spots may be found in this track, of from 9 to 7 fathoms, bottom of gravel, upon which the sea breaks violently in spring tides. The north end of Seal Island is tolerably bold-to ; there being within -I of a mile of it from 5 to 7 fathoms. SEAZi XSXiAVB.— In approaching the Bay of Fundy from the southward ov south- eastward, the most conspicuous object, and that to which the shipmaster's /ittention ought to be directed, is Seal Island, as it is the outermost island off this coast of Nova Scotia, and is readily distinguished in the night-time by its excellent light. Its soutliern extremity bears from Cape Sable about "W.N.W. | W., distant 17 miles. The island is a little more than 2 miles in length from north to south, and ^ a mile in aver- age breadth, and ita southern part, covered with scrubby trees, is elevated 30 feet above the sea. The lighthouse on the south point of Seal Island is of an octagonal shape, built of wood, and painted white ; it shows a conspicuous fixed light at 98 feet alcove high water mark, which may he seen, on approaehing, from every point of the compass, to the distance of about 18 miles. The building must not be approached by strangers nearer than at least 5 miles while it bears between W.N.W., northerly, and E.N.E., and then with great care, in order to avoid the various dangers in the vicinity of the island. The position of the lighthouse is lat. 43° 23' 34" N., and long. G6° 0' 62" W. Off the middle of a curve in the eastern shore vessels may anchor in 5^ or 7 fathoms, wlicn the wind is from the westward, and in Crowell Cove, on the western side, in 4^ fathoms when it blows from tlie eastward. It is safest to enter this latter anchorage from the northward, passing in between the north end of the island and Limb's Limb Lodge, as a shallow spit runs westward from the middle of the island almost all tho way over towards that ledge, upon which there are but 12 and 13 I'eet water. High water on the days of full and change in the cove at 9h. 2rn. ; springs rise 12^ feet. On tho eastern side of the island the tide makes to the northward at half ebb and runs till high water, when it turns again to the southward, and oif the southern side the current of ebb begii\s 50 minutes after high water at Crowell Cove, and sets S.E. by S., with an average velocity of 2| miles an hour, over tho Elbow and Zetland Shoals, and tho Blonde Rock. The flood runs in almost the contrary direction. Limb's Limb atid Devil's Limb are two ledges of rocks lying about a mile off the western shore of Seal Island ; the former, showing itself one hour alter high water, bears N.W. by N. \ N. 1| mile from the lighthouse, and is separated from the 12-foet spit which extends \ a mile westward from Crowell's Cliimnoy and ibrms the south side of Crowell Cove, by a very narrow channel of 3J and 1^ lathoms deep ; and the latter, which is \ a mile southward of Limb's Limb, and about 8 foot above high water, has another shoal 2 cables southward of it, bearing the name of Loch Foyne, and un- covering at low water of springs only. Both these rocks are stcop-to on their western 24 THE BLONDE EOCK, &c. side, and should, therefore, be cautiously approached. There is a good channel between Devil's Limb and Loch Foyne Shoal and Seal Island from the southward up to the southern edge of the 12-feet spit, and the smoothest anchorage is said to be in about mid-channel, where will be found 3^ or 4 fathoms, clear sand. The Elbow and Zetland Shoals lie off the south end of Seal Island. The Elbow Shoal causes a violent rippling, and is separated from the rocks extending from the island by a channel \ a mile wide, and 6 to 8 fathoms deep, in which the tide also pro- duces a heavy rippling. Hence it extends above a mile southward, and is \ a mile broad, the soundings over it in general ranging from 3 to 5 fathoms, but there are three or four places with only 15 feet over them, and one near the middle of even much less water; this is named Elbow Rock, and bears S. by W. -j W. If mile from the lighthouse. Zetland Shoal is westward of the Elbow, and was discovered in Novem- ber, 1848, by the ship Zetland, when it was reported to have but 18 feet over it, but a subsequent examination by Com. Shortland, R.N., shows it to have not less than 21 feet on its south-west extremity, and 10 and 12 fathoms close-to. To the north-eastward of it the soundings are 4y, 7, 4|, 6, 8, and 5 fathoms as you proceed towards the island in the direction of the lighthouse, which bears from the shoalest (21 feet) spot nearly N.E. 1| mile. Blonde Rock. — At the distance of 3^ miles S. \ E. from the lighthouse is situated the Rlonde, a small and very dangerous rock, which generally breaks, is two feet above the water at low spring tides, and on which the frigate of that name was lost in ? 77. Close round the rock are 7, 9, and 10 fathoms water. The Blonde is particularly dan- gerous, as the ebb-tide sets strongly towards it ; and from the lowness of Seal Island, you may be on it before you are aware, even in fine weather. About a mile to the westward of the Blonde are very heavy and dangerous overfalls, which present a very alarming appearance, but not less than 9 fathoms have been found in and around them. The Pvi'dy Bock has 13 or 14 feet over it, is small, breaks in heavy, weather, and is surroimded close-to by deep water of 8 to 14 fathoms; it bears from Seal Island lighthouse S.E. by E. \ E. distant 2^ miles, and from the Blonde Rock N.E. by N. 2? miles. When making for the anchorage under the east side of Seal Island, or for the channel between that island and the Mud Isles, its position should be carefully guarded against. Therefore, as before observed, strangers, in large vessels particularly, should avoid getting entangled among or thrown upon any of these dangers, by giving Seal Island lighthouse a berth of at least 5 miles, while it bears between W.N.W., northerh', andE.N.E. Pollock Rip, a small shoal spot of 6 fathoms, is said to lie about llf miles S.W. by W. J W. from the lighthouse ou Seal Lsland, and W. by S. 10 miles from the Blonde Rock. Dangebs westward of Mud and Tcsket Islands. — Besides Mud Island Shoal and Soldier Ledge, before described, there are several shoals and rocks above and under water, situated between 3 and 6 miles off the western side of Mud and Tuskct Islands, and, commencing with the southernmost, are named Jacko Ridge, Gannet South Shoal, Gaimet S.W. Shoal, Gannet Dry Ledge, S.E. Rock, South Rock, Gannet Rock, North Rock, and Green Island. The Jacko Ridge consists of two shallow patches, separated by a depth of 7 fathoms, the northern and shoalest (4^ fathoms) portion lies 6^ miles N.W. by W. from Flat Island, the north-westernmost of the Mud Isles. This ridge generally shows a long tide ripple, extending north and south, and is said to break in a heavy sea. Gannet South Shoal is 2 miles north-eastward of Jacko Ridge, with 10 and 10 fathoms between, and 4f miles W. ;i S, from the southernmost or Bald Tusket; it has 4 fathoms over it, is small and steep-to, and causes a ripple, and sometimes breakers in a ver}' heavy sea. Gannet S.W. Shoal is narrow, has 3 and 3} fathoms ou each end and 4 near its middle, and extends north and south l of a mile. It shows a small ripple, breaks iti heavy weather, and has immediately off it 5 to 10 I'athoms. From its centre Bald Tusket bears E. J S. (5 miles, and Gannet South Shoal S.E. nearly 2 miles. Gannet Dry Led (je en- Opossum's Ledge, some very dangerous nnd steep rocks :J of a mile in extent, which uncover about 2 hours ebb and generally break, lie 1^ mile further northward, with Bald Tusket E.S.E., southerly, G^ miles, and Gannet Rock N.E. | E. breaks near Jebogu Shoal, Outer THE GANNET EOCKS, &c. 25 is the westernmost of these dangers, and night by keeping Yarmouth lighthouse to may be passed the eastward in of 1| mile distant. This safety on a clear N.N.E.^E. S.JE. Rock breaks in a heavy sea, and has 16 feet water over it, or even less, and from 5 to 10 fathoms all round ; it lies If mile eastward of Gannet Dry Ledge, and 1\ mile S. by E. \ E. from Gannet Rock. About midway, but a little westward of the direct line between it and Gannet Kock, is the South Rock, w^'^h shows itself above the water at half-tide. Gannet Rock is small but high, about 50 feet above the sea at high water, and whitened with the dung of birds. It lies 2f miles S.S.W. from Green Island, and 3| miles W.N.W. of Spectacle Island, the westernmost of the Tuskets; in passing through the channel between these latter islands and the rock, bear in mind the position of the S.E. Rock, and give the southwest side of the Tuskets a berth of 1^ mile or more to avoid the Spectacle, Harriet, and other ledges lying off them. One-fourth of a mile northward of Gannet Rock ia the Noi'th Rock, which shows itself at half-tide. Green Island has shallow water all round it, which on the south side extends off ^ a mile. It is small, about 50 feet high, and bears from Jebogue Point S.W. f S. 2^^ miles. When passing Green Island, observe, therefore, that the reef from the island runs to the southward \ a mile, and has off it from 6 to 5 fathoms water, and that between it and the Gannet Rock are from 12 to 17 fathoms, except about midway, where there is a small spot with only 4^ fathoms over it. The shore of the mainland to the eastward is studded with a number of small islands, which have channels in and among them leading to the different settlements on the banks of the various inlets, and several dangerous shoals outside, so that a good berth should at all times be given them, and the aid of a pilot obtained if bound to any place hereabout, or requiring to take shelter under their lee. JEBOGUE RIVER is 18^ miles northward of Seal Island, and has its entrance between Jebogue Point on the western, and Reef Island on the eastern side, but before it are three dangerous shoals, which divide the entrance into two principal channels, and when within these, the water soon shoalens to 7 and 9 feet in the passage round the eastern side of the Fox and Beal Islands, and to 12 and 16 feet in that on their western side. It soon deepens again, but the channels become very narrow, and when abreast the northern part of these islands on either side, anchorage may be had in from 12 to 18 feet, about a mile within the river. The channels here unite and run to the north- ward between broad mud flats extending from both shores, which make it very narrow and winding. It is high water on the days of full and change at 9h. 47m. ; springs rise 1Q\, neaps 11, and neaps range 6^ feet. Reef Shoal, distinguished by a tide rip, has 12 and 13 feet over it, is steep-to, and lies \\ mile S. \ E. from Jebogue Point, and W.S.W. | of a mile from Reef Island. The best channel, named the Inner Channel, is to the westward of it, and you may clear it on this side by keeping Yarmouth light open westward of the west tangent of Jebogue Point. Keep upon this bearing till about \ a mile from the point, then haul up to the eastward for either passage, accoi'ding to circumstances. Jebogue Ledge, sometimes named the Dragon, also makes a rippling of the tide and breaks with an ordinary swell at low water ; upon it are 14 and 16 feet, and one spot near the centre nearly awash ; it lies one mile S.W. \ W. from the extremity of Jebogue Point, and 2 miles W. by N. of Reef Island. Inside this is the Jebogue Point Shoal, upon which are 13 and 15 feet. The two divide the Inner from the Northern or Outer Ciiannel. To clear their northern side bring the Earthy Cliff of Fox Island open southward of Jebogue Point, E.N.E. | E., and it will lead up to the point, which should be rounded to the eastward at the distance of 3 cables' lengths. A pilot is neces- sary for a stranger. The Roaring Bull and Foul Ground. — These are two dangers off the north-western bide of Jebogue Point. The Foul Ground, over which there is a ripi)ling of the tide, has 9 feet least water over it, and is \ a mile in extent north-west and south -cast. Between it and the nearest shore, from which it is | of a mile distant, there Jire from 4 to 10 fathoms. From its centre Yarmouth lighthouse bears N. ^ E. 3 miles. The Roaring Bull, or Bagshot Rock, is 3 feet above the sea at low water of spring tides, is steep-to on all sides, and very small ; it lies above a mile offshore, and when on it, Yarmouth light bears N. by E. 2^ miles. Between it and the Foul Ground are 4 and il 26 THE LURCHEE AND TRINITY SHOALS. m 5 fathoms. There are three or four spots of 4y and 4| fivthoms between Jebogue Point and Yarmouth, but all witliin 1^ mile of the land. YAnMOVTB. — Although situated on the extreme western shore of Nova Scotia, Yarmouth is a place rapidly rising in importance. Yarmouth Sound runs in north- eastward, between Cape Fourchu and the main land. When within, good shelter can be had Irom all winds, but the channel, though not less than 15 or 18 feet deep all the waj' up to the town, is narrow and winding, and in one or two places its free use is impeded by rocks and shoals ; hence to a stranger the aid of a pilot is very necessary. About halfway in on the eastern side is Bunker Island, joined to the main by a low beach ; inside this island is what is usually called Yarmouth Harbour. The wharves of the town extend from the shore across the flats to the edge of the channel, and vessels lie ofi" them in 2, 3, and 5 fathoms. High water takes place here on the days ol' full and change at lOh. 6m. ; springs rise 16f , neaps 12^, and neaps range 8^ feet. Cape Fourchu, or the Forked Cape, is very remarkable, being rocky, barren, and high, and is so named from the island, which forms it, having two narrow prongs running out to the southward. The cape bears from Jebogue Head N. by VV., distant 4| miles. Just within the extremity of the East Cape or Prong, and on the western side of the harbour's entrance, there is a lighthouse, which exhibits a brilliant revolving light, at 117 feet above the level of the sea, visible for 1^ minute, and invisible ^ a minute, to the distance of 20 miles. The building is painted red and white, in vertical stripes ; is 58 feet high, and stands in lat. 43° 47^' N., and long. 66° 9' 25" W. In fine weather you may approach the light to within ^ a mile, and anchorage may be obtained to the eastward of it, and also to the westward during tine weather, but caution is requisite. We believe a fog bell is struck seven times in each minute during thick weather. The inlet formed by the two prongs of Fourchu Island must not be mistaken for the entrance to Yarmouth, which lies to the eastward of them both. From the eastward, bound to Yarmouth, pass well to the southward and westward of Seal Island, and steer so as to leave Jacko Ridge, Gannet S.W. Shoal, and Gannet Dry Ledge at a good berth on the starboard side, and you will thus leave Gannet Rock and Green Island at least 2 miles to the eastward. When in sight of Yarmouth light- house do not bring it to bear northward of N.N.B., to avoid the Foul Ground and Roaring Bull. If overtaken hereabout by thick and fog^?y weather it would perhaps be advisable to stand ofl' and on into not less than 20 fat'r ms, rather than close with the shore, at the same time being careful not to get to the nortl\ward of the parallel of the lighthouse, for fear of grounding upon the dangerous Lurcher Shoal. When you are within 1^ mile of the lighthouse, steer for it, pass it at the distance of ^ a mile, and haul round to the eastward into Yarmouth Sound, keeping in mid- channel, and, if necessary, you may anchor in 3^ or 4 fathoms with the lighthouse bearing W. by N. ^ N. distant about 3 cables, or proceed further in, but as the channel becomes confined and intricate, a pilot is indispensable to a stranger going into the harbour. On the east side of the entrance are some rocks which cover at ^ flood, named the Hen and Chickens ; the spire of the church in line with the middle of the low beach between Bunker Island and the main just clears their outer edge. The country around is veiy fertile, and a good coasting trade is carried on with Halifax, Annapolis, and St. John's. Several fine vessels have been lately built here* and everything encourages the expectation that before many years elapse the town of Yarmouth will be one of the most prosperous in Nova Scotia. J7ic Ltirc/iet' consists of two patches, named the S.W. and N.E. Shoals. The S.W. Shoal covers an ex^ient of about 2 cables in length north and south and one cable in breadth, upon which are from 9 to 18 feet, but there is a prolongation eastward and westward for a short distance whereon are 4 and 6 fathoms ; all round almost close-to arc 8, 10, and 13 fathoms, and a little farther off", on all sides except the northern, from on +r^ QA Cathoms, while between it and Cape Fourchu are 28, 38, and 14 fathoms, miles N.W. by W. ^ W. from Cape Fourchu, in lat. 43° 50' 12" N It lies lit miles N.W. by W. i W. from Cape Fourchu, in lat. 43° 50' 12" N. and long. 66° 29§' W. The N.E. Shoal is a very smjdl patch of 5 fathoms with 12 and 14 around it, lying N.E. 2^ miles from the S.W. Shoal, being separated therefrom by soundings of 8, 11, ai d 17 fathoms. The flood sets northward and the ebb southward over this shoal, both producing a heavy tide rip, and at neaps running with a velocity of 2^ knots per hour. Trinity Ledge lies about 6 miles ofl* the shore between Capes Fourchu and St. Mary, and bears from the latter S.W. by W, Q\ miles. It extends E.N.E. and W.S.W. \ a S.W. COAST OF IS^OVA SlCi 27 V ht als rIi' -ea, and t iu heavy iimtiediatc in The flood runs to the northward and the ebb the contrary, at the rate of about 2i i an hour. From Cape Fourchu to Cape St. Mary the coast trends N. by E. | E. 17-o i and should not be approached nearer than a mile. The tides near it follow its diieciion, running at the rate of 1^ mile an hour, the flood northward and the ebb southward. The coast has a level and woody appearance, with a few red earthy banks, and in the vicinity of Cape St_. Mary the land has a gradual rise till it attams the height of 300 feet about 5 miles in shore. Directions. — ^Vessels coming round Cape Sable, and intending to take the passages northward of Seal Island, should give the cape a berth of 3 miles or more, and proceed through either of the channels already' described, whichever may suit their convenience, but such a course will require the aid of skill and resolution, and if to these be added a local knowledge, then time and distance can be saved and safety ensured. From the above-mentioned berth off" Cape Sable to the passage between Tusket Islands and Soldier's Led^e (page 22) the course and distance are N.W. by N. 18 miles, which, if made good, will carry you nearly 2 miles eastward and northward of Round Island. This dii'ection may be continued so as to pass out between Gannet Rock and Green Island, leaving Cleopatra, Spectacle, and other ledges off" the south-western side of the Tuskets, f of a mile oft' on the starboard side, and the S.E. and Gannet Rocks a similar distance on the port hand. If bound into Yarmouth you may now follow the directions given on page 26, but if bound for the Bay of Fundy or St. Mary's Bay, pass either out- side the Lurcher Shoal by steering first N.W. | W. 22 miles, and afterwards N. by E. ^ E. 30 miles to the entrance of the bay of Fundy ; or between the Lurcher and Trinity Ledges by following a N. by W. ^ W. course 24 miles, then haul up N.E. into St. Mary's Bay, or steer N. ^ E. 20 miles further for that of Fundy ; or inside the Trinity Ledge by sailing along shore and keeping at from 1^ to 5 miles therefrom up to Cape St. Mary, the southern point of entrance of St. Mary's Bay. Which of these courses is to be taken depends on the force and direction of the wind, but in either case make due allowance for the set of the tides, and remember that both flood and ebb run very strongly over the Lurcher and Trinity Ledges, the former to the northward and the ebb the contrary'. From the before-mentioned berth off Cape Sable towards the channel between the r.ortli side of Seal Island and the Mud Isles (page 23), steer N.W. by W. 15 miles, and pass through it on a N.W. course, keeping nearer Seal Island than Noddj', to avoid the overfalls off the latter. This N.W. course may be continued for 30 or 35 miles, till well out to seaward, leaving Mud Island Shoal and Jacko Ridge from | to 1^ mile to the northward of you, after which a N. by E. ^ E. direction will cany you towards the Bay of Fundy, outside the Lurcher. Or, if intending to go inside the * J annet Rocks, and out to the southward of Green Island, and having continued on the N.W. course till Seal Island Lighthouse bears S. by E., steer N. ^ E. 11 miles, or till abreast Gannet Rock, sailing between Mud Island Shoal and Soldier and Spectacle Ledges to the eastward, and Jacko Ridge, Gannet South Shoal, and S.E. lioek to the westward. Now haul out north-westward, give Gannet Rock a berth of i a mile on the port hand, and proceed as directed in the previous paragraph. For a stranger, however, it is advisable to keep well outside ':o the southward of Seal Island, say at about 35 miles, passing at the disUmce of 20 miles to the westward of it ; thus the Bay of Fundy will be open, and the course up first N.N. W., till on the parallel of Cape Fourchu Light, and then N.N.E. for the entrance of the bay. This will carry you outside the Lurcher, but the tide will make a difference in these courses, as it sets in a south-easterly and north-westerly direction, and near the Manan Ledges the ebb runs W.S.W. and the flood E.N.E., at the rate of 4 knots an hour, which must be allowed for. From Seal Island up to Cape St. Mary the land is level and well wooded, and the soundings, under 60 fathoms, extend fully 25 and 30 miles oft' the land, westward of Bryer's Island. Near the Manan Ledges are 60, 80, and 100 fathoms at 3 and 4 miles' distance, therefore the lead should always be kept going. IHhi 28 SABLE ISLAND. If a chart of the S.W. coast of Novji Scotia be examined, and the relative situation of that coast, as exposed to the Atlantic Ocean, with the consequent and variable set of the tides about it, as well as about the Manan Islands, &c., be considered, the mariner will be naturally led to consider that its navifjation, involved in occasional difficulties, requires very great attention ; and the supposition is justified m consequence of the great number of ships lost hereabout ; yet there are few obstacles which a moderate exercise of skill and resolution would not have been able to overcome, and it is to be feared that the absence of these qualifications occasioned such losses to a greater extent than the actual dangers of the navigation. " In order," says Mr. Loch wood, "to lessen these accidents, if not totally to prevent Ruch latal oci'urrenccs in future, let the mariner bo fully convinced of the necessity of frequently sounding with the deep-sea lead, and see the expediency of having his ancliors and cables fit for immediate use ; this cannot be too strongly impressed upon his mind, (or vessels well equipped and perfect in gear, with their anchors stowed as in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, have been here wrecked in moderate weather, and so frequently, that such gross neglect cannot be too much reprobated ; such serious losses will, we trust, be hereafter prevented, more especially as it is so dependent upon the mariner himself, and may be, in most cases, remedied by only sounding in time, and keeping the lead in continual action." If i'rom Europe, and bound to the Bay of Fundy, endeavour to keep in about 43° or 43° 5' N., and having obtained soundings on the western part of Sable Island Bank, keep the deep-sea lead going as you proceed to the westward, sounding progressively on the Le Have and Cape Sable Banks ; the former may be known by the hard rocky bottom, and the latter by being generally black gravel. These precautions become more necessary, as a fair wind is frequently accompanied by a thick fog, often for several days together. In thick weather, by a careful attention to the soundings as you approach towards Cape Sable, and keeping your vessel under commanding canvas for getting soundings, Tou may round the cape with safety in 35 or 40 fathoms : the soundings will inform you when olf tlie cape, being small black stones, sand, and gravel. When across this bank you will fall into deep water in the bay, and may shape a course for the American shore, and should endeavour to make the land about Moose Peake Head, or Machias. Mount Desert and the Skuttock Hills may be seen at a great distance; sometimes they may be seen clearly from the mast-head over the fog. I M-i il SABLE ISLAND AND BANKS OFF NOVA SCOTIA. SABXiE ZSXiAND. — The east end of this remarkable island is situated in lat. 43° 59' 5" N. and long. 59° 48' 27" W., according to the determination of Captain Bayfield, K.N., who survej'ed it in 1851. The island is almost entirely compoi'ed of white sand, of a coarser nature than the soundings about it, but nevertheless sufficiently fine to be easily moved by the winds, which have a considerable effect in altering the features of the land, large sand hills being rapidly formed, and again in a short time removed. There are but a few large stones on the island, such as there are being probably the ballast of wrecked vessels, and there is an entire absence of anything deserving the name of soil, so that no cultivation whatever can be carried on, the sole production of the island being two kinds of grasses, wild peas, strawberries, and cranberries, of which latter the quantity is so great and the quality so fine, that they have been proposed as an article of export. There are no tiees, and fuel is obtained from the drift wood, mostly the product of wrecks. Fresh water is easily obtained by digging a few feet in the sand. The cattle are principally wild horses, besides the domestic animals belonging to the establishment; there are also great numbers of rabbits. Sable Island is about 18 miles long, and 1^ mile broad in its middle, but tapers at each end to a narrow point, particularly at its eastern end. The direction of tho island is about E. by S. -^ S., and in the greater part of its interior there is a salt lake oi 5 to 12 feet water. The climate is said to be healthy, and those who have resided here for a number of years speak of it in terms of high praise, notwithstanding the frequent fogs and consequent humidity of the atmosphere ; it appears to be greatly influenced by the proximity of the island to the Gulf Stream, which is distant from it SABLE ISLAND. 29 only about 70 miles to the southward. Winds from the southward almost immediately dissolve the snow which may have previously fallen, causing, with the alternating northerly winds, a wider range and yet a higher mean temperature than occurs on the neighbouring continent during the winter months. The southerly winds coming thus Jrom a warm to a comparatively cold sea, are compelled to part with a porHon of their moisture, and hence are almost always accompanied with a dense fog. Tiiese winds greatly prevail during the summer months, tho.se from the south-west especially; on the contrary, winds from between North and East prevail mostly during the spring and early summer, and are usually attended with fine weather. In autumn and winter the easterly winds bring bad weather, and are accomp.inied by a falling barometer. When approaching Sable Island from tjie northward, it appears at the distance of 10 miles to consist of a long range of sand-hills, some of which are very white. From the southward the range of white sand appears more continuous, and very low towards the west end of the island. On a nearer approach many of these sand-hills are seen to be denuded by the waves, so as to form steep cliffs towards the sea ; in other parts they are covered with grass and defended by a broad beach, which, however, canuot bo reached without passing over ridges of sand, covered with only a few leet of water, and parallel to the shore, at distances not exceeding ^ of a mile ; these form heavy breakers, dangerous to pass in boats when any sea is running. The landing is in general impracticable on the south side, excepting after several days of northerly wind. On the north side boats can land only in southerly winds, and after some continuance of fine weather ; but there are surf-boats at the establishment which can land dry when an ordinary boat would be instantly swamped. The sand-hills at the eastern portion of the island average 60 and 70 feet in height. One of these sand-hills, named the East Hill, at about a mile from the East Point, is considered an eligible position for a lighthouse, should one ever be established. The principal establishment on the island (1851) is situated on the north side, between the pond and the sand-hills, and consists of a house for the superintendent and his family, and of various other buildings. Opposite the ostablishment is the west flagstaff, which is strongly and substantially erected on a sand-hill 40 feet high, and at its summit is a croto's-nest, or look-out, 100 feet above the sea ; from this look- out it is in contemplation to show a small light occasionally. To the eastward of this flagstaff about 7 miles is the middle flagstaff, standing on a hill near the east end of the salt lake ; but this will probably be soon removed to a more advantageous position on the south side of the island, where there is a house, aiid where it will be better situated to report wi'ecks, as well as to render prompt assistance. The east flagstaff is on a sand-hill on the north shore of the island at about 2} miles from its east point. Besides the houses at the flagstaffs there is an unoccupied one on the north side, which was distant in August, 1851, about 320 fathoms from the west extreme of the grassy sand-hills. These various flagstaff stations are extremely useful, as no wreck can take place on the island at a greater distance than 6 miles from one of them, and signal is at once made of such a melancholy occurrence to the superintendent at the piincipiil establishment. Anchorage. — Off the north side of the island, excepting near the east end where the deep water appi'oaches too near the land, the anchorage is good between the depths of 5 and 10 fathoms, and at the distance of 2 and 1 miles from the shore. The bottom is of fine sand holding well, but the sea is so heavy, excepting with off-shore winds, that a vessel should weigh instantly on the first appearance of a wind from sea. Great caution is necessary in approaching from the northward at night or in thick weather, because the east end of the isla il and the north-east bar are very steep on that side, although the soundings afford sufficient warning further to the westward. The south side of the island may be safely approached by the lead, excepting near the bars, where it becomes Bhallow and dangerous, but it is advisable to have the advan- tage of a commanding breeze, on account of the strong and uncertain tides and currents. Vessels seldom anchor off Ihis side of the island, because of the prevailing southerly swell, and the consequent difficulty of landing. The Bars. — At each end of the island are dangerous bars, upon which the sea breaks in bad weather. These bars are extremely difficult to avoid when at a short distanco from the north side of the island, and caught with a strong northerly wind, and if to this we add the suddenness of the dense fogs prevalent at some seasons of the year in 30 SABLE ISLAND. hi I the vicinity of the islantl, a vessel under such circumstances is placed in great peril, and nothing but the most careful navigation is able to extricate it. Their state, as repre- sented by Captain Bayfield in 1851, is as follows : — " Tlie North-west Bar is dry to f of a mile out from the end of the grassy sand-hills, but it has several patches of sand nearly dry, about a mile further i^ixt, and which are supposed to have collected around the remains of old Avrecks. The North-east Bar is dry four miles out from the grassy sand-hills ; the sea wash- ing over the outer half of that distance only in rough weather. At the distance of IJ mile out on this bar a sand-hill, about 10 feet high, and with some grass on it, has accumulated around the wreck of a vessel lost there in the year 1820. If we add the dry parts of the bars to the length of the island, the whole extent of sand dry at present, Avill be 22 miles ; and if again we add to this distance the still greater length of the bars under water at either end, the whole will form a bow or crescent concave to the north, and extending over 52 miles of sea. Caught within the horns of this crescent in a strong northerly gale, the situation of a vessel would bo ex- tremely perilous ; for the ebb-tide sets to the southward, directly on and over the bars, usually at the rate of l^or 2 knots, and when accelerated by winds much faster ; whilst the flood-stream runs at a much less rate iu the opposite direction. The whole extent of the North-west Bar, from the end of the grassy sand-hills to the depth of 10 fathoms, is nearly 17 miles ; the dry part being succeeded by 9 miles of foaming breakers in bad weather, and the remaining 7 miles, from 5 to 10 fathoms of depth, being usually shown by a great ripple, or a heavy cross sea. The direction of this bar is N.W. '^ N. (magnetic) for the first 12 miles, then W. by N. for the remaining distance ; beyond which the water deepens gradually to the westward for many miles. The North-east Bar extends 14 miles out from the grassy sand-hills to the depth of 10 fathoms. Its direction is N.E. by E. ^ E. for the first 7 miles, beyond which it curves gradually till it terminates to E.S.E. The dry part of nearly 4 miles is succeeded by 8 or 9 miles of breakers when there is any sea running. I have considered this bar as ending at the depth of 10 fathoms, bitt the ridge of sand continues, with a depth of from 10 to 13 fathoms, and often a heavy breaking sea, 10 miles further to E.S.E ., and then ends abruptly; the sound- ings increasing to 170 fathoms, in a distance of 3 miles further in the same direction. Both bars are extremely steep, and consequently dangerous of approach on the north side; the North-east Bar especially so, having 30 fathoms of water close to it. To the southward, on the contrary, the water deepens gi'adually out for so many miles, that it would seem almost impossible for any vessel, using common precaution, to run on shore on that side either of the island or its bars. Yet by far the greater number of shipwrecks have taken place there, affording a sad proof of the culpable neglect of the Bounding lead, so common in the mercantile marine. Some of these vessels camo on shore in fine, although foggy weather, after ruiming for many miles in shallow water, when one cast of the lead would have shown them their danger, and in many cases saved both life and property. In most cases the vessels were thought to be far to the eastward of the island, when they ran on shore upon it, having been set to the westward by the currents. That this alleged cause is the true one, there seems little reason to doubt, for the general tendencv of the currents, between Newfoundland and Sablo Island, is to the westward, althougn they are greatly modified by the various banks over and between which they flow ; and are also rendered inconstant and irregular, both in strength and direction, by winds present and at a distance. These currents are, first, the great northern current along the east coast of Newfoundland, which is deflected to the westward by the Great Bank, and secondly, the current out of the Gulf of St. Lawrence composed not only of the stream of the Kiver St. Lawrence, but ah-^o of the branch of the northern current which is so generally found entering the Gulf through the Strait of Bellcisle. I have already mentioned the set of the tidal streams over the bars; they too arc doubtless much influenced by winds. It was difficult, on account of the surf, to ascer- tain the exact time of high water on the full and change days, but it was at 7^ hours nearly, and the rise not exceeding four feet. This was on the north side of the island. I am inclined to think that it is nigh water somewhat earlier on the south side, as has been alleged, and that portions of the flood tide wave, after passing round the bars, SABLE ISLAND. 31 converge and meet on the north side, making? high water there perhaps an hour or more hiter ; but I am not aware that any precise or sufficient observations have ever been made to ascertain this. It is said by the people of the ishmd, that all floating things which have been lost overboard anywhere in the vicinity of the island, are sure to be found on it gooner or later. This would lead us to suppose a prevailing circular motion in the currents or tidal streams, to which the arrangement of the island, its bars, and the middle ground to the north of it, in their peculiar shape, may in whole or in part be due." In case of shipwreck, it is of course greater hazard to life to be wrecked on the bars than on the island, and as it is important to know on which bar the vessel is, and the consequent direction in which to seek for safety on the island, you may ascertain this, should the island be obscured by fog or the darkness of night, by observing the direc- tion of the breakers, those on the N.E. bar extending between N.E. by E. and E. until near its outer extremity ; whilst those on the N.W. bar extend N.W. ^ N. J^\gs, Sfc. — Captain Bayfield, R.N., says : — " Some of the heaviest gales in these seas have been from the N.E. and East quarters, and they are usually followed, almost immediately after the barometer has reached its lowest point of depression, by an equally strong gale, from between the North and West, and which is always accompanied by clear weather and a rising barometer. Easterly as well as southerly winds are foggy. The latter become less predominant as the summer advances, when westerly winds and clear weather become proportionately of less rare occurrence. It is the fogs, even more than the irregular tides and currents, that render this island so dangerous ; they frequently last many days and nights in succession with the prevalent easterly and southerly winds of early summer ; and even as late as the begin- ning of August, when we were about the island, only 6 days out of 19 were entirely free from fogs. Winds between North and West are, in general, frequent in autumn and winter ; they almost always bring fine clear weather, with a rising barometer, but are often of great strength, and in winter accompanied with intense frost." It is high water at Sable Island on the days of full and change of the moon at 7h. 30m. Ordinary spring-tides rise 7 feet, and neap-tides 4 feet. The flood seta in from the S.S.W. at the rate of \ a mile an hour : but it alters its course, and increases its velocity, near the ends of the island. At half-flood it streams north, and south at half-ebb, with great swiftness, across the North-east and North-west Bars ; it is, there- fore, dangerous to approach them without a commanding breeze. ADDITIONAL DESCRIPTIONS.— The foregoing describes Sable Island as it existed in 1851 ; we add the following by Mr. Darby, the late superintendent of the island, written in 1829, because it aftbrds many interesting particulai-s not included in it. Wo remark, generally, that the island has frequently been partially destroyed by the sea washing over it, and great changes in its configuration have from time to tinio resulted from these inundations— therefore, no reliance ought to be placed on the state of the bars for any length of time. " The soundings about Sable Island decline regularly only on the south side ; but Approaching the isle from any other bearing whatever there is comparatively deep water (10 fatlioms and more) close to danger. In foggy weather, vessels should not approach the north side or point of either bar nearer than 25 fathoms. Two belts encircle the isle, the outer — a mile from the shore— 2^ fathoms. Theso belts are increased by galea, and by high winds raking the island, which drift the sand from them to the bars. The isle is composed of loose, light sand, and high gales fre- quently alter its outline and appearance. When ft vessel is on shore in a fog it becomes of the utmost importance to ascertain hor true position, in order to save the ship or the crew ; therefore, lower a boat, and observe that if the breakers extend in a N.W. and S.E. direction, you are on the N.W. bar. If the breakers extend W.S.W. and E.N.E., you are on the N.E. bar; and if they are Been to the northward, ahead, and extending from east to west, you are on tho south side of the island ; but should they be seen to the southward, ahead, and extend- ing from oast to west, you are on the north side of tho island. The prevailing winds are from East to South, and from South to West, when tho novth or leowaruBido of tho island is comparatively smooth, and, therefore, should bo Bought. There is a swashway in each bar to save lives : got to leeward by crossing cither bar (according to tho wind) at these places. No risk in modorato weather, but if the surf should appear too dangerous, land as you can, or try to weather tho bar y CO SABLE ISLAND. Id'' I- M St altog(;tl)er, I- Haviiii:: once gained north of the bar, haul up S.E. or W.S.W. (as the case may be) lor tlie land ; and'take the boat ashore, as near the house as may be convenient. The semi-circular form of the north side is favourable for boats, as under a Avindwavd curve a lee is alforded from east and west winds ; but with fresh north winds this form is against a boat getting off the land. Therefore, if ashore on the north side, push the boat right before the sea for the land, rather than risk getting to leeward by crossing either bar; but if ashore on the south edge of either bar, wind north, land on the south side. If ashore on the north-east bar in tolerable weather, xvind about west, you may land at the east end without crossing the bar, and {vice vcrsd) if on the north-west bar, and owing to the inner belt, high water is best landing. After landing, if owing to fog you cannot judge your situation, so as to shape your course to one of the houses, seek the lake, and then proceed. Stronf* gales cause annual shiftings of the sand on both bars, which in the course of years must alter their form and extent. I have given the form of the bars as found in 1823. Mariners approaching the isle are warned to keep the lead going, and never to go nearer ou the south side than 10 fathoms, or the north side than 25 fathoms. North-iccst Bar extends 16 miles, and is 2 miles wide ; the land bears S.E. from its point. The tide on this bar sets north, slacks at half-flood, and turns south before hi"h water: its rate is two knots. The bank, to the west, and this bar are travelling to Jiorth-east. The soundings are particularly irregular to the N.W. and W.N.W., with very vari- able currents. The whole of this bar breaks in bad weather. North-east Bar extends 28 miles and is 2 miles wide, the land bearing W.S.W. The flood-tide sets N.N.E. 5 knots, the ebb 3 knots or less, and is scarcely felt with a spell of south and south-west winds. In gales of wind the whole bar will be one lino of breakers, but in more moderate weather they do not extend beyond 18 miles, and a vessel may cross at 24 miles in 7 fathoms. The bar is travelling north. South side of the Island. — The current on this side, in shoal water, with prevailing south and south-west winds, sets rapidly eastward until it reaches the end of the north-east bar; it then joins the St. Lawrence stream, which passes the bar in a S.S.W. direction, and runs strongest in April, May, and June. I have sufficient reason to believe that the Gulf Stream, in 42° 30' N., running E.N.E., occasions the St. Lawrence stream, running S.S.W., to glide to westward. The strength of this stream has never been noticed, and three-fourths of the vessels lost have imagined themselves to the eastward of the island, when in fact they were in the longitude of it." A subsequent description of the island in 1837, by the same gentleman (Mr. Darby), speaks of it in the following terms. In alluding to the tides, he says : — " Eiwteily, southerly, and S.S.W. winds, set a rapid current along shore in shoal-water, to the W.N.W, and N.W. ; that is, along the shore of the western end of the island, but not the eastern or middle, as there the current, with southerly and S.W. winds, sets to the eastward. The natural tendency of the flood-tide is toward the coast. When it etrikes the island it flows to the eastward, over the north-east bank, and to the west- ward over the north-west bank, and passes the west end in a north-west direction so rapidly that it carries the sand with it; and the hills of the west end being high and narrow, they are undermined at tluir base by it, and tumble down some tliousands ot tons of sand at a time. This the current beneath catches, and sweeps away to the N.W., increasing the bank. As soon as this current passes the extreme point of the dry bar, it tends more across the bank to the N.E. ; the motion of the sea contributing to keep the sand in motion ; the current carries it to the N.E. and spreads to the N.W. Although across the bank from the island, to the distance of 15 or 20 miles to the N.W., there is a flood and ebb tide, the flood setting to the N.N.E., the ebb to the S.S.W., the flood comes over a broad flat bottom until it arrives at the highest rid;li, in parta thickly wooded, and bordered with sandy Hats which run out in some places as much as ^ and Ij mile; while the opposite, or northern sliure, is constituted of high dill's, having deep water close under them. About 8 miles before arriving at the head of the bay, and just above the entrance of Slssibou River, is the western end of an extensive sand and rocky bank, which occupies the greater portion of its breadth, leaving only a narrow though deep channel on each side, one close along under the cliffs of tbe northern shore, and the other at from g to 1} mile from off the southern. Near the middle of this shoal there is a small spot of only 4 feet, rocky bottom, but with this exception the soundings upon it range from IJ to 2^ uud 3^ iathoms. Above the shoal the depths are 5, -1, 3, !?, and IJ, fathoms, tho latter being found on the broad mud Hat which occupies the head of the bay. At the entrance of St. Mary's Bay high water on tho days of full and cfwmge takes C 2 86 BUYER'S ISLAND, &c. p: I* .1 U place at about lOjli., and at its head at lOli. 40ni. The tides follow the direction of the shores with a velocity of f or 1 knot an hour, except in the neighbourhood of the Grand and Petit Passages, where it is so much gi-eater, that it is necessary, with the flood, when abreast and near their entrances, to guard against being carried through thera. Weymouth. — The River Sissibou, upon the right bank of which the village of Weymouth is situated, empties itself into St. Mary's Bay, on the southern side, 18 miles within Bryer's Island, and 8J miles E. by N. from Petit Passage, south entrance. At the mouth of the river there is a hard bar, which partly dries at low water, spring- tides ; but at high water there are 14 or 15 feet on it, and sometimes 1 or 2 feet more. Ships of 300 tons occasionally go here to load timber and deals, as there are or were two saw-mills, one near the entrance, the other about 2 miles up the river. At low water the channel of the river is very narrow, so that it is necessary to moor head and stern ; but there is sufiicient water for a vessel to load afloat at that period. It is said that in the summer time a vessel may, after loading to about 14 feet inside, take a part of her cargo in without the bar, where there is good riding, in 6 or 7 fathoms. Both sides of the Eiver Sissibou are well settled, and there are several good farms. At Weymouth, about a mile inside the bar, there is an English Church with its parsonage-house. On the west side of the river stands the village of New Edinburgh. On the days of full and change it is high water at lOf h, ; springs rise 22, neaps 17, and neaps range 12 feet. When sailing towards this place do not approach the southern shore of the bay nearer than 1^ mile, or into less than 9 fiithoms. On the north side of the bay, and nearly opposite to Sissibou Eiver, is a little inlet named Sandy Cove, where small vessels, when it blows hard, may run aground on a bottom of soft mud, and lie sheltered from all winds. SXiTBX'S ISXtAlTD, on the north-west side of the entrance to St. Mary's Bay, is 3j miles in length, from north-east to south-west, and ly mile broad. Its shores have deep water at less than ^ of a mile off", except on the south-west side, but the approach to the island should be carefully made, on account of the S.W., Beatson, N.W. Ledges, &c., hereafter described. A lighthouse of an octagonal shape, painted white and 55 leet high, stands on the western side of the island, and exhibits a brilliant fixed light, at 66 feet above the sea, visible 15 miles between the bearings of S. by W. | W. westerly and northerly, to N.E. by E. Here the tides are very strong, rendering great care neces- sary when sailing in this vicinity. Pilots can usually be obtained. The position of the lighthouse is 44° 14' 57" N., and long. 66° 23' 40" W. Gull Sock and Ledge are on the south-west side of Bryer's Island. The ledge extends 1^ mile S.W. \ S, from the south point of Pond Cove, partly shows itself at one-third ebb, and is terminated by a small rock, named Gull Rock, which is 6 feet above high water: its breadth does not exceed ^ of a mile, but it is very steep-to, particularly on the southern side, where 16, 24, and 30 fathoms are found at a short distance off. Bryer's S. W. Ledye lies If mile W.S.W. \ S. from Gull Rock, with that rock just open northward of Dartmouth Point, the eastern point of the southern entrance of Grand Passage. It is small, has only 12 feet over it, makes a heavy tide-rip, and there are from 7 to 10 fathoms all round. From it Bryer's Island lighthouse bears nearly N.E. by N., not quite 4 miles distant. South-westward of it and between it and the Gull Rock the tides create a strong rippling, but the depths range from 6 to 10 and 20 fiithoms. The flood runs N.W. by N. and the ebb S.E. by S. dn'ectly over this danger, on which account great caution should bo exercised in navigating hei'eabout, Beatson and N. W. Ledges, Sft-,, lie 3 miles off" the north side of Bryer's Island, with deep water between and around them. Beatson Ledge is the westernmost, has but 12 feet over its shallowest parts, and bears from the lighthouse N. \ W. 3^ miles. The N.W. ledge is likewise small, and has upon it a rocky head whereon are only feet, so that it is exceedingly dangerous; it is distant 4| miles N. by E. from the lighthouse, and vessels may pass between it and Beatson Ledge by keeping Gull Rock in line with the extreme western point of Bryer's a,/ 'nd, and to the eastward of it by bringing Mauri- Ivan's Mark (a large granite boulder on the eastern side of Grand Passage) m one with the North Point of Hryer's Island. South-eastward of the N.W. Ledge are some shallow patches of 5^ and 6 fathoms, named the Frenchman's Elbow, with the exception of which the soundings between these dangers and Bryer's Island are from 10 to 40 fathoms. Over all of them the flood sets to the northward and the ebb the contrary, with a velocity of about 4 knots an hour, and creating u heavy tide-rip. GRAND AND PETIT PASSAGES. 87 When standing to the northward, vessels should not go so near to the Nova Scotia shore as to shut in Bryer's Island light, for then they will be in danger of running upon some of the ledges about the Gull Kock. In advancing from the westward towards the island, the tide ripples strongly, even in 33 and 45 fathoms, when you are at the dis- tance of 8 or 10 miles off the island. GRAND PASSAGE and Westpoet. — GrandPassage, the channel separating Bryer's from Long Island, is 2 miles long, but the deep water channel is under ^ of a mile in width where narrowest, though not less than 5 fathoms deep. The flood and ebb set through it at the rate of from 5 to 6 miles an hour, the former to the northward and the latter to tlie southward, besides which, right in the middle of the channel, f of a mile off the northern side of Peter's Island, there is a dangerous shallow patch named Passage Shoal, and on the eastern side of the northern entrance the Cow Ledge and Shoal, so that it requires the aid of a pilot to pass through in safety, if at all unac- quainted. The village of Westport is on the western side of the passage, off the southern end of which, between it and the Passage Shoal, is the best anchorage, in from 7 to 9 fathoms. High water on the days of full and change at lOh. 47m. ; springs rise 21^ feet, neaps 16, and neaps range 10 feet. Peter's Island is nearly in the middle of the southern entrance of the Grand Passage, and has on its eastern side a light beacon showing two white lights, horizontally, at an elevation of 40 feet, which is intended as a guide to vessels entering the harbour or running through Grand Passage. It stands in lat. 44° 16' 30" N., and long, 66° 20' 20" W., and will be seen on the approach from seaward and St. Mary's Bay, until shut in by the south side of Bryer's Island afid Dartmouth Point, on Long Island side, namely between N.E. by E., northerly, and N.N.VV \ W., and on the north side (coming out of the Bay of Pundy) between S. by W. and S.S.W. When in the passage, or fairway through, the light will be seen all round, and can be passed on either side ; but tho eastern passage is the deepest and widest, and most recommended. The southern entrance of Grand Passage is 11 miles N. by W. from Cape St. Mary. In running for it, from abreast of Cape St. Mary, you will have no impediment what- ever, tiicre being a depth of from 14 to 30 fathoms, and at the entrance of the passage as much as 18 fathoms in mid-channel. Pass round the eastern side of Peter's Island, keeping rather nearer that island than the eastern shore, and if intending to anchor off Westport, haul up W.N.W. for it, giving the north side of Peter's Island a berth of 2 but not more than 3 cables' lengths, to avoid the Passage Shoal. Or, if going through the passage, when abreast the lights of Peter's Island, steer N. ^ E. towards the northern end of Bryer's Island, leaving Passage Shoal on your port hand, and when the Bay of Fundy is fairly open, proceed out on a N. by E. ^ E. course, with Peter's lighthouse the apparent breadth of the island open westward of Sand Point, the west extreme of Long Island, which will carry you clear of Cow Ledge and Shoal out into the bay. Loiiff Island, separated from Bryer's Island by the Grand Passage, and from DigbyNeck by the Petit Passage, extends N.E. ^ E. and S.W. | W. IO5 miles, and has nearly a uniform breadth of 1^ mile throughout. Its shores are straight with deep water close-to. On the northern side the flood runs north-eastward and the ebb south- westward at the rate of from 2 to 2^ knots an hour. The island is thickly covered with wood, with partial clearings, and in parts attains an altitude of 214 and 226 feet. PETIT PASSAGE, between the east end of Long Island and DigbyNeck, is 2 miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W. and 280 fathoms wide in its narrowest part, the depth of water being from 6 to 23 fathoms. The flood runs through it to the northward and tho ebb tho contrary, at the rate of 7 knots an hour. Nearly i of a mile north-eastward of Boar's Head, the western point of the northern entrance, there is a small detached shoal of 7 feet water, with 16 and 18 fathoms immediately off its outer edge ; this must be guarded against by keeping nearer the eastern than the western shore when going into or coming out of the passage by this entrance. In sailing through keep near the middle of tho channel. On the western side, nearer the northern entrance than the southern, lies Eddy Cove, a convenient place for vessels to anchor in out of the stream of the tide, which runs so rapidly that, without a fresh leading wind, no ship can stem it. Digh^/ Neck, the name given to a peculiar projection of tho land from the main of Nova Scotia, is a peninsula about 17 miles in length N.E. by E. ^ E. and S.W. by W. i W., and li mile in breadth. From Petit Passage to Gulliver Hole the distance is 18 miles; the intervening coast is straight and boTd-to, except at Sandy Cove, where a narrow shoal projects i a mile north-eastward with from 1 to 4 fathoms over it. Tho 4. 88 ANNAPOLIS, &c. m m 4:. H i tides follow the direction of the shore, running with a velocity of about 2 knots an hour. The whole of the coast from Grand Passage to the Gut of Annapolis is bound vrith high rocky cliffs, above which is a range of hills that rise to a considerable height ; their tops appear smooth and unbroken, except near Grand Passage, Petit Passage, Sandy Cove, and Gulliver's Hole, where those hills sink in valleys, and near the Gut, where they terminate by an abrupt and steep declivity. Gullivers Sole is 7^ miles westward of the Gut of Annapolis, and affords tem- g)rary anchorage for small vessels in settled weather in from 5 to 8 fathoms, rom Gulliver's Hole across Digby Neck to the head of St. Mary's Bay the distance is 2 miles. AnrwAPOKlS OR DZOS7 GVT. — This is the entrance to Annapolis Basin. Its length is 2^, and breadth where narrowest | a mile, and depth from 12 to 21 and 30 fathoms. The shore, on both sides, without the Gut, is iron-bound for several leagues. The stream of ebb and flood sets through it at the rate of 5 knots, and causes several whirlpools and eddies. The truest tide is on the easteni shore, which is so bold-to, that a ship might almost rub her bowsprit against the cliffs, and be in 10 fathoms water. A shoal runs off Point Prim, the western point of entrance, about 30 fiithoms. Just inside and a short distance off the western shore there is a small isolated rock above water, named the Man-of-War Rock, and -I of a mile further in, on the same side, another shoal projecting about the same distance into the channel. It is better, therefore, to keep nearer the eastern side of the Gut than the western. High water on the days of full and change at llh. 2m. : the range of tides varies from 16* to 28 feet. In the offing the tide turns fn-shore a little before and off-shore a little after high and low water respectively. On Point Prim, a lighthouse, of a square shape, exhibits a fixed light at 76 feet above the sea, visible about 13 miles. The building is of wood, painted red and white vertically. Mr. Lockwood says, " That the abrupt precipices of the high lands which form the Gut, cause those gusts of winds which rush down so suddenly and so violently from the mountains. The tide also huiTies your vessel through with great force. At the entrance there is no anchorage, except close in-shore, near the outer western point." Annapolis Basin, in the south-western corner of which is the town of Digby, is a large bay receiving the waters of several rivers, the chief of which is Annapolis River, which runs parallel to the Bay of Fundy for a very considerable distance, being sepa- rated from it only by a narrow tract of hilly land, not more than 8 miles wide. On its banks are the towns, named Laurencetown, Bridgetown, and Annapolis, the last of which is \0\ miles within and to the eastward of the Gut, but to go up to it strangers should obtain the assistance of a pilot, for, although there are not less than 18 feet at low tide in the fairway, there are, besides the banks running off the shores and sur- rounding Goat Island, several detached patches of 3, 6, 9, and 10 feet that might pick up a vessel whose master is not acquainted with their position. The southern part of Annapolis Basin is occupied by a broad and shallow flat, but there is anchorage in 6 or 8 fathoms betweenit and the western shore, in proceeding to which from the Gut, keep along by the western shore at the distance of :|^ or \ of a mile off it, and bring- to about f of a mile before you come to the town of Digby. Marshall Cove. — From Annapolis Gut to Marshall Cove the distance is 2G miles, the intervening coast having but one slight curvature, namely St. Croix Bay, in which temporary anchorage may be had in 4 or 5 fathoms in settled weather; the bay is 2 miles westward of Marshall Cove, and with this exception the land is bold-to, with a few rocky cliffs near the Gut, and many banks of red earth under high lands, Vvhioh appear very even. At Marshall Cove or Port Williams there is a breakwater for the accommodation of a few small craft, and also a white square beacon showing a fixed light, which at the distance of about o miles appears of a bright colour, but on a nearer approach it changes to green. Marciarctville is about 11 miles eastward of Marshall Cove, and 38 from Digby or Point Prim lighthouse, the intervening coast being similar to the foregoing. Here there is also a small breakwater, and a light shown from a white square beacon, which at the distance of 5 miles appears as a bright light, but on a nearer approach as a red one. JBlach Roclc Point, considerably to the eastward of Margaretville, may be distin- guished by a lighthouse of a square form, painted white, situate on the southern shore of the Mines Channel, which exhibits a fixed light visible about 12 miles. The lighthouse stands in lat. 45° 10' 48" N., at about three-quarters of a mile westward of BASIN OF MINES. S9 1 a nearer Kennedy's Breakwater, and 2| miles eastward of Giran's Breakwater. Small vessels resort to both these places, and the light will therefore be a useful guide to vessels bound to them, as well as to Spencer Island anchorage, or into the Basin of Mines. The light is elevated 45 feet above the level of high water. Spring-tides rise and fall here about 50 feet. BASXSr OP MZNES. — In the channel leading into the Basin of Mines, from Cape Split to Cape Blo^vmedown, and from Cape D'Or, on the north side, to Partridge Island 18 miles beyond it, the land rises almost perpendicularly from the shore to a very great height. Between Cape Blowraedown and Partridge Island there is a great depth of water ; and the stream of the current, even at the time of neap-tides, does not run less than 5 or 6 knots. Off Cape Split there are whirlpools, very dangerous with spring- tides, which run at about 9 knots an hour. Having passed this place, you may anchor in a bay on the north shore, named Eden Cove, situated between Partridge Isle to the east, and Cape Shai-p on the west. Hence, if bound to Windsor River, it will be necessary to get under weigh two hours before low water, in order to get into the stream of the Windsor tide on the southern shore : otherwise, without a commanding breeze, a vessel would run the hazard of being carried up with the Cobequid or eastern tide, which is the main stream, and runs very strongly both ebb and flood ; while the Windsor tide turns off round Cape Blowmedown to the southward, and is then divided again, one part continuing its course up to Windsor, and the other forming the Cornwallis tide, running up the river of that name. As an assistance to vessels frequenting Eden Cove, and navigating the Basin of Mines, a small lighthouse has recently been erected on Partridge Island, which shows a fixed light at about 30 feet above the sea, visible 10 miles. The building is coloured white, and is octagon-shaped. WINDSOR RIVER.---This is a small river on the south side of the Basin of Mines, leading to the town of Windsor. It is not very wide, but there is a depth of 6 fathoms at the entrance, which rapidly deci'eases to 2 fathoms as you proceed up. Before the entrance there are some shoals, for which reason no stranger ought to attempt to run. up without the assistance of a pilot. As some assistance to the navigation of the river a small lighthouse has been erected on Horton Bluff, the west side of entrance, which shows a fixed light at 95 feet above the sea, visible about 15 miles. The following remarks on the river were written as far back as 1824 : — " In running into Windsor River, a house on Horton Bluff (within the river on the west) should be kept on a South bearing, and the gap in the land formed by Parsborough River, North ; this will take you through the channel between the Flats, which cannot be passed by a vessel drawing 15 feet much before half-tide. Off Horton Bluff the ground is loose and slaty, and a ship will be liable to drag her anchors with a strong breeze, particularly at full and change ; it might, perhaps, therefore, l^e better for men-of-war to moor across the stream, and fully one-third from the bluff. The banks and flats appear to be composed of soft crumbling sandstone, which is washed down from the surrounding country in great quantities during the spring ; and, by accumulating on them, are constantly increasing their height, and, consequently, lessening the depth of water over them." Between the Windsor River and the Cobequid River, the river in the eastern part of the Basin of Mines leading to Truro and Onslow, there are extensive flats which are mostly dry at low water. These extend 6 miles from the shore, and have deep water close to their edges, so that they require careful navigation to avoid. There are also dangerous flats lying off from the north shore, so that a shipmaster must have an intimate knowledge of the channel, to enable him to take his vessel up the Cobequid River.* The Cornwallis and Horton Rivers, westward of the Windsor River, have an entrance common to each. There are flats before them, and none but the smallest vessels can rnn up them. HAUT ISLAND is situated at the entrance of the Mines Channel, and forms a J* r 1 1 « On Burnt-coat Head, on the south side of the river, leading to Truro and Onslow, there is a small fixed light, shown from a square white building, at the height of 75 feet, and visible 13 mUea in clear weather. From the lighthouse Cape Blow-me-Down bears W. by N. f N., 26 i miles; the Brick-kiln Ledges N.W. i W., westerly, 7i miles; and Ecuaomy Point N.W. i N., 4 miles. 40 QUACO LEDGE. \'i 11 1^ ^ prominent and very remarkable object from the height and steepness of its roclcy cliffs, which, in a most singular manner, seem to overhang its western side. At its eastern end, however, there is a moderately good landing-place, and anchorage at half a mile off, in 18 fathoms, with the low point bearing about N.E. by N. ; here, also, is a stream of water running into the sea. The east end of this island bears from Cape Chignecto S.W. i S., 4 miles, and from Cape D'Or W. ^ N., 9 miles. The position of the centre of the island, as determined by Capt. Owen, R.N., by astronomical observation, is in lat. 45° 15' 6" N., and long. 65° 0' 6" VV. Cape D'Or and Cape Chignecto are high lands, with very steep cliffs of rocks and red earth, and deep water close under them. There is nearly the same kind of shore to the head of Chignecto Bay, where very extensive flats of mud and quicksand are left dry at low water. The tides come in a bore, and rush in with great rapidity, and are known to flow, at the equinoxes, from 60 to 75 feet perpendicular. This renders the Basin of Mines, and many of the rivers hereabout, navigable to a great extent, even up to Londonderry, Windsor, and Onslow, at the extremity of Cobequid River. It is high water, on the full and change, at Cape D'Or and Cape Chignecto, at llh. ; and spring-tides generally rise from 30 to 40 feet. Off Cape Split, at lOh. 15m.; springs rise 40 feet; and on the south side of the Basin of Mines, at llh, 30m., spring- tides rise about 38 feet. CHZGlO'ECTO BA.V is divided from the Mines Channel by the peninsula, of which Cape Chignecto is the western extremity. It runs up E.N.E., and may be considered as the north-eastern branch of the Bay of Fundy. Having advanced about 12 or 13 miles within it, you will see on the northern shore Cape Enra<,'6, or Enraged Cape, on which is a lightliouse of a square form, painted white, which shows a fixed light at 151 feet above the sea, visible 15 miles between the bearings of N.W., by the south, to N.E. Nearly opposite to Cape Enrage is Apple River lighthouse, on the southern shore. The lighthouse stands on Hetty Point, on the northern side of the Apple River, ?iad is about 3 leagues eastward of Cape Chignecto, in about lat. 45° 26' N. It is a square white building, showing two fixed lights horizontally. These lights are 40 feet above the level of the sea at high water. The rise and fall at spring-tides here is 55 feet. At about 11 miles beyond Cape Enrage, the bay divides into two branches, the one leading to Cumberland Basin and the River Missiquash, which runs across the isth- mus, and is the boundary between Nova Scotia and New F'unswick; the other branch runs northerly to the Petcudiac River.* The Cumberland branch is navigable to within 13 miles of Verte Ba}'', in the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; and it is remarkable that when the rise of tide in the Cumberland Basin is 60 feet, that in Verte Bay is only 8 feet. From Cape Enrage towards Quaco the land is good, but much broken with steep declivities ; the weather is generally humid, the winds boisterous and changeable with limited and short intervals of sunshine. From Quaco to St. John's the island is high, and the interior hills rise in easy inequalities ; the ravines of the cliffs are deep and gloomy, and the indents have beaches. Black River, west of Quaco, distant 12 miles, although dry from half-tide, is a safe inlet for a small vessel. Quaco Ledge is \\ dangerous shoal of gravel, upon which many vessels have grounded, situated about 12 miles S.E. \ E. from Quaco; it extends from N.W. by N. to S.E. by S. about 3| miles, and is half a mile broad; and there are several irregular patches of rocks lying off its N.E. side. This ledge shows itself at half-tide, and dries for about 100 yards, having but 12 feet of water over it at common tides. At half a mile to the N.E. the eddies with the flood-tides are strong and numerous, ihe ship's head going nearly round the compass in the space of half an hour ; the ebb is a true tide, and sets in u W.S.W. direction towards the ledge. The soundings are from 7 to 14 lathoms, at about 2 cables' lengths all the way round ; but they shoal more gradually from the * On Grindstone Island, at the entrance to this river, theiv is a small white octas'onal building which shows a fixed liglit at CO feet iibove the sea, visible 12 miles. According to Captain Shortland, E.N., its position is in lat. 45° 43' 13" N., \o\v^. 64° 37' 25" \\. ; being a difference of about 10 miles between it and the longitude hitherto assigned to the island. Cape Eurag6 lighthouse bears fiom it S.W. by W. i W. 10 miles. ST. JOHN'S HAEBOUE. 41 N.E. The mark to go clear to the southward of the Quaco Ledge, is Cape D'Or on with the south side of Haut Island. Its position, as determined by Captain Owen, R.N., is lat. 45° 15' 2" N., and long. 65° 23' 25" W. On a small rock off Quaco Head is a lighthouse painted white and red, in horizontal stripes. It shows a bright light visible about 15 miles, whicli revolves every 20 seconds, during which time it appears for 14 seconds, and is dark the remaining 6 seconds. The position of the building is lat. 45° 19' 35" N., and long. 65° 31' 55" W. Spring-tides rise 24 feet, and neap-tides 20 feet. ST. jroBir'S SilLBBOXTR. — The entrance of this harbour bears from the entrance of the Gut of Annapolis N. | W., 11 leagues, and may be distinguished by the light- house on Partridge Island, which shows a fixed light at 119 feet above the level of the sea, visible 20 miles. The tower is painted red and white, in vertical stripes, and is furnished with a bell, to be tolled in thick or foggy weather ; its position is lat. 45° 14' 2" N., and long. 66° 3' 30" W. As a guide to vessels making St. John's, a large iron fog-bell has lately been placed in 7i fathoms, at the entrance of the harbour. It lies with Cape Spencer bearing S. 59° E. ; Cape Mispick, S. 62° E. 3| miles ; Partridge Lighthouse, N. 21° E. 1^ miles; Sheldon Point, N. 49° W. If miles ; Medginish south-east point, N. 76° W. 2 miles ; Cape Negro, red mark, S. 81° W. 4i miles ; and Cape Split, S. 78° W. The height of the bell above the buoy is 19 feet. A heacon light is shown within Partridge Island, from a tower erected upon a spit or bar which runs out from Sand Point S.S.E. about half a mile, and which dries at two-thirds ebb. This light is of great utility to the coasters,°and all other vessels having pilots on board, as it enables them to enter the harbour at all hours of the night. North-east from the beacon light, just off the town, is a ridge of rocks which is covered at 2 hours' flood ; from this ridge and eastward of the town are extensive flats of sand and mud, which dry at low water, and extend along the road to Cranberry Point, stretching off about 2 cables' lengths. The bo" tom, for several miles southward of Partridge Island, is muddy, and the depths gratiual, from 7 to 20 fathoms, affording excellent anchorage ; the passage west- ward of this island has in it 10 feet ; that to the eastward has 16 feet ; and abreast ot the city are from 7 to 12 fathoms. A breakwater has been erected on the eastern side of the entrance to the liarboui', below the town, for the purpose of reducing the inset of the sea, especially during a southerl}"- gale. The CriT OF ST. JOHN stands on the River St. John near its mouth, and carries on a considerable trade, and many ships are built here. Within the harbour is a valuable fishery, where large quantities of salmon, herrings, and chad are cured for exportation. In the most severe winter it is free from the incumbrance of ice. The country on the banks of the river abounds in excellent timber, coal, limestone, and other minerals. Partridge Island is about 2 miles to the southward of the city, answering the double purpose of protecting the harbour, and, by its lighthouse, guiding and directing the mariner to its entrance. The entrance into the river, 2 miles above the town of St. John, is over the Falls, a narrow channel of 80 yards in breadth, and about 400 long. This channel is straight, and a ridge of rocks so extends across it as to retain the fresh water of the river. The common tides flowing here about 20 feet, at low water the level of the river is about 12 feet higher than that of the sea ; and, at high water, the level of the sea is from 5 to 8 feet higher than that of the river ; so that, in every tide, there are two falls, one outward and one inward. The only time of passing this place is when the water of the river is level with the water of the sea, which is twice in a tide ; and this opportu- nity of passing continues not above 10 minutes : at all other times it is impassable, or extremely dangerous. After passing the Falls, you enter into a gullet, which is about a quarter of a mile wide, and two miles long, winding in several courses, and haviiig about 16 fathoms in the channel. Having passed this gullet, you enter a fine large basin 1^ mile wide, and 8 miles long, which enters ' lie main river. The river branches some hundreds of miles up, in a serpentine manner, and runs through a country which abounds with timber, coal, limestone, and many othe'* minerals ; and the surrounding lands are now becoming highly cultivated. There is water enough to navigate vessels of 50 tons as high as Frederickton, and in all the bi-anches of the lakes adjacent, except in dry seasons. At times of great freshes, which generally happen between the 42 ST. JOHN'S HAEBOUB, 18' - i '^ beginning of April and the middle of May, from the melting of the snow, the Falls are absolutely impassable to vessels bound up the river, as the tide does not rise to their level. The following directions for St. John's Harbour and Meogenes Bay were written a few years since by Mr. Backhouse. It should be mentioned that from Captain Owen's survey it would appear that the passage on the east side of Partridge Island is the best, there being in the other only 7 to 13 feet, and some shoal spots of less water at low tide. " When you make Meogenes Island, or Partridge Isle, so as to be distinguished from the lighthouse on the latter, then make a signal for a pilot, and the intelligence from Partridge Island will be immediately communicated to the city of St. John, whence a pilot will join you. Should the wind be contrary, or any other obstruction meet you, to prevent your obtaining the harbour that tide, you may sail in between the S.W. end of Meogenes Island and the main, or between the N.E. end and the main, and come to anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms at low water, mud and sandy bottom. The mark for the best anchoring ground here is, to bring the three hills in the coimtry to the N.E. in a line within Rocky Point Island,* and the house on Meogenes Island to bear S.E. by S. Should the tide of ebb have taken place at the beacon, you must not, by any means, attempt to gain the harbour that tide, but wait the next half-flood, to go over the bar, as both sides of the entrance of this harbour are nothing but sharp rocks dry at low water : and the tide of ebb is so rapid in the spring, when the ice and snow are dis- solved, that all the anchors on board will not hold the ship from driving. On the Nova Scotia side of the Bay of Fundy, your soundings will be from 50 to 60, 70, 80, to 95 fathoms ; stones like beans, and coarse sand ; and- as you draw to the northward, the quality of the ground will alter to a fine sand, and some small shells with black specks. Approach no nearer to the south shore than in 50 fathoms ; and, as you edge off to the N.W. and W.N.W., you will fall off the bank, and have no soundings. When you have passed Meogenes Island, edge in-shore toward Rocky Point, until Meogenes Point {Negro Head) is in a line over the N.W. corner of Meogenes Island; sailing in between Rocky Point and Partridge Island, with these marks in one, will lead ypu in the best water over the bar (9 to 15 feet), until you open Point Mispick to the northward of the low point on Partridge Island ; then starboard your helm, and edge towards Thompson's Point, until the red store, at the south end of St. John's, is in a line over the beacon ; keep them in one until you pass the beacon at a distance of a ship's breadth ; then haul up N.N. W. up the harbour, keeping the blockhouse, at the upper part of the harbour, open to the westward of the king's store, situated close to the water side, which will lead you, in mid-channel, up to the wharves, where you may lie aground dry, at half-tide, and clean your ship's bottom, or lie afloat in the stream at single anchor, with a hawser fast to the posts of the wharves on shore. — N.B. The tide of flood here is weak, but the ebb runs very rapidly all the way down past Meogenes Island." The following directions are based on the details of the survey of Lieutenants Harding and Kortright, acting under the orders of Captain W. F. W. Owen, of the Royal Navy, in 1844. When running for St. John's avoid the rocky ledge running off Inner Mispick Point, the eastern side of the entrance, to the distance of 2\ cables' length, and which is steep-to, with 30 to 40 feet close off j and having brought the stone barracks in one with the Wesleyan Chapel,t at the back of the town, bearing N. f E., steer in with this mark on, and it will carry you outside of the shoal water extending from the eastern side of Partridge Island. When Carleton Church comes in one with the cliff end (the termination of the cliffs forming Negro Point), bearing about N.W. f N., you must change your course to tliis direction, and it will lead you in from 15 to 22 feet at \\ cable's length to the northward of the shoal ground extending between Partridge Island and Negro Point. Continue in this direction until the stone church at the back of the town comes on the end of the breakwater, when you * This is an islet, lying at a cable's length from the point, and more properly named the Shag Eocl'. It is surrounded by sunken rocks. t This building will be known by its octagonal tower with a circular top. It is situated in the N.E. part of the town. MTJSQUASH HAEBOUE. 43 must run up with this mark past the beacon-lifjht into the harbour. When just above the beacon-light steer N. by W. or N. by W. ^ W., and anchor off the town. Be careful to keep the lead going when following these directions, that you do not strike on the shoal spots. To the north-eastward of the beacon-light, and just off the town, is a ridge of rocks which is covered at 2 hours' flood. From this ridge, and eastward of the town, there is an extensive flat of mud and sand which dries at low water; this extends along the coast to Cranberry Point, and runs about 2 cables' lengths ft-om the shore. Cran- berry Point is cliffy, and has some rocks running ofl' it. It is high water on the days of full and change at llh. 44m.; spring-tides rise 23 to 25 feet, and neaps 21 to 23 feet. Signals. — The following signals are displayed at Partridge sland, on the approach of vessels to the harbour of St. John : — One ball close for 1 square-rigged vessel. One ball half-hoisted for 2 „ Two balls close for 3 „ Two balls separated for 4 „ A pendant of any colour for 5 „ A pendant under a ball for 6 „ A pendant over a ball half-hoisted for '. 7 „ A pendant under two balls close for 8 „ A pendant under two balls separated for . 9 „ A flag of any colour for 10 or more. • The above are displayed at the east or west yard-arm, according to the direction in which the vessels are at first observed ; and as soon as their rig can be distinguished, descriptive colours will be hoisted at the mast-head in the following order : — A union jack, with a white pendant over for a small armed vessel. A blue pendant „ merchant ship. A red ditto „ merchant brig. A white and blue ditto „ foreign vessel. A white ditto (without a ball) „ top-sail schooner or sloop. A red flag, piei'ced white „ steamboat from St. Andrew's and Eastport. A ball at the mast-head vessel is on shore or in distress. Should immediate aid be necessary, guns to be fired. In foggy weather, a gun will be fired on Parti'idge Island in return for each heard at sea. Should a vessel require a pilot, her descriptive pendant will be displayed at a yard-arm, in the place of a ball. In regard to the time for going through the Falls, near St. John, it may be men- tioned that the Falls are level (or still water) at about S^ hours on the Jtoocl, and about 2h on the ehh, which makes them passable four times in twenty-ibur hours, about 10 or 15 minutes each time. No other rule can be given, as much depends on the floods in the River St. John, and the time of high water or full sea, which is often, hastened by high winds, and in proportion to the height of them. To the W.S.-westward of Meogenes Island is Flat Bay, in which the depth is 5 and 4 fathoms water. It is a small harbour occasionally used by coasters. Hence the land runs nearly W.S.W., passing Negro Head, and Halfway Point (on which is a white horizontal stripe, about 5 feet broad, and which appears to be 40 feet long), to Cape Musquash, which is 9 miles from Partridge Island. Close off Cape Musquash is the Split Rock, with 8 fathoms very near it ; this rock is marked by seven white balls, six of which are distinctly visible at a distance of 10 or 12 miles. MUSQUASH HARBOUR lies about a mile to the westward of the Split Rock. Its entrance is about half a mile wide, and there is a good anchorage a little way in, with 4 i'athoms water ; but farther on a bar runs across the harbour, over which are only 1^ fathoms. Small vessels sometimes pass to the westward of the islands, and run up the river, which, when past the bar, has 2, 2^, and 3 fathoms water. This harbour is open to the so award. On Musquash Inner Head, to the westward of the Split Rock, is a white vertical stripe, visible from the westward, with two of the balls on the Split Rock ; but on coming up the bay, when the stripe is lost sight of, the whole of the balls on the Split Rock are seen. Besides the above there is a beacon on Gooseberry Island with the letters Gr I marked on it, and the top of the pinnacle painted white. The white m \-fi. BEAVER AND ETANQ HAEBOURS. ;^i mark can be seen at some distance from the S.W., but the letters are only visible when the island bears North. From the entrance of Musquash to Point Lepreau, the coast runs to the westward nearly 10 miles, and is irregular, with a few inlets. The first of these inlets is about 1| mile to the westward of Musquash western point, and of no note whatever ; iu your way to it, a berth must be given to the shore, particularly about Musquash Point, on account of some rocks lying off that part; there are channels between these rocks, but few vessels will venture through them. Besides this inlet there are Chance and Little and Great Dipper Inlets, but they are of little use, and too difficult of access to be run for. Hence to Point Lepreau the coast is high and broken, and must be avoided on account of the rocks lying off it. POINT LEPREAU. — On Point Lepreau there is an octagon-shaped building, painted red and white in horizontal stripes, which shows two fixed lights, vertically, at 81 and 53 feet above the sea, visible 15 miles. The range is about two-thirds of the circle from W.N.W., round by south, to E. by N. A gun is fired to answer signals. The building bears from the easternmost Wolves E. by N., distant 11 miles: its position is lat. 45° 3' 50" N., and long. 66° 27' 4" W. Westward of Point Lepreau, and between it and Red Head, is Maces Bay, in which are numerous islets and rocky ledges, so that it is a place rather to be avoided than frequented. On ics eastern side is a rocky ledge running out from the shore fully ly mile in a S.W. ^ S. direction, which dries at low water. It may be cleared on the south side by bringing the lighthouse on Cape Lepreau to bear S.E., and on the west side the Brothers' Islets N. by E. ; these marks will avoid the ledge iu 13 fathoms, and it must not be approached nearer as it is steep-to. At the head of the bay is Mink Island, within which is anchorage for small vessels. At the back of Maces Bay is Lepreau Bay and River, in which is good anchorage in 4 or 5 fathoms, and shelter from the south-eastward ; here are some saw-mills, at which deals are cut. In running for this place avoid the rocky ledge previously mentioned, and enter the bay, passing the Brothers' Islets on the west side. Prom the Brothers' a ledge runs to the eastward joining the shore. W. by S. from Point Lepreau, distant 3^ or 4 miles, there is stated to be a shod, of which the actual situation is not known ; if such should exist, it must be surrounded with very deep water, for a short distance from its presumed position there are 26, 28, and 31 fathoms, mud, mud and sand, and gravel. BEAVER HARBOUR lies 7 niiles to the westward of Red Head; between is a small place named Seely Cove, in which small vessels may occasionally anchor for a short time. Beaver Harbour is an excellent place to run for when cauglit by an easterly wind, and unable to reach St. John's Harbour, as it is above a mile wide at the entrance, with 10 fathoms water on each side, and 15 fathoms mid-channel, and there are no dangers at the entrance going in. In entering, keep the western shore aboard, until you bring the Goal Rock to bear East, distant about half a mile, when you may anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms, good holding-ground. It is said that there are no regular pilots, but that the fishermen on the coast are well qualified for the task; althougjj in clear weather they are not absolutely necessary. At about 1} mile from Beaver Harbour is a small island close to the shore, named Little ]\loose Island ; around it there are rocks, and close off it to the southward arc 8 to 15 fathoms. Hence to Deadman Bay the distance is 1 j mile. Deadnian Bay is a small bay running in to the E.N.E., about IJ- mile. It is not more than ^ of a mile wide, but in it there is a depth of 10 to 7 fathoms, which rapidly tlecreascs towards the head of the bay until it becomes dry. Off Deadman Head, tlio south jjoint of the bay, there is a half-tide rock, close to which there are 5 and 10 fathoms, so that it must be cautiously avoided. This bay occasionally aflords a temporary shelter to the small coasting vessels. STABTO HARBOUR.-— This harbour affords excellent and well-sheltered anchor- is built on a Huiall point jutting out from the main land, and carries on a considerable trade ui deals. On the western side of Etang llai'bour ai'e Cuiliff, McCunn, White, and Bliss GEAND MANAN ISLAND. 45 <*V;!. Islands, having about them a number of smaller islets and rocks. The approach to the harbour is either through Bliss Harbour, the sheltered anchorage existing between Cailitt' and Bliss Islands; or, to the eastward of all the islands, through the narrow passage formed by them with the eastern shore. If the former passage be adopted, gi-eat care is necessary to avoid the Man-of-war Kock, a sunken ledge lying in mid- channel off the western end of Bliss Island ; if the lattei', to avoid the Roaring Bulls, some ledges on the eastern side of the channel near Pea Island, and the Mare and other rocks off the east end of Bliss Island on the western side of the passage. Besides these two passages into Etang Harbour, there is a third to the northward of Cailiff Island, but it is so nai*row, and at the head of the island so shallow and encumbered with rocks, that it is not suitable for anything much larger than boats. In Bliss Harbour, there is good sheltered anchorage in 6 fathoms, protection being afforded to the southward by Bliss Island. A small vessel may also anchor in 8 fathoms in Fisherman's Cove, on the north side of that island. At Etang Harbour it is high water on the days of full and at change of the moon at llh. 10m. ; spring-tides rise 21 to 25 feet, and neaps 21 to 22 feet. The variation of the compass in 1847 was 17° W. WOLF ISLANDS.— The Wolves are three or four islands from 60 to 100 feet high, situated 5 miles to the southward of Etang Harbour; they may be passed on either side, there being deep water close to them ; but among them there is no sheltered anchorage, except for small vessels in the summer time. With light winds, a lee-tide, or tliick weather, you may let go anchor anywhere between the Wolves and Beaver Harbour, in good holding ground, with a depth of 20 to 25 fathoms. GRAM'S XMIAlTABr* — This island lies at the entrance of the Bayof Fundy,cominands an uninterrupted view of every vessel that passes to or from it, and has several good harbours to which they may run for shelter. The nearest part of its north-western shore is distant 5| miles from Quoddy Head, on the coast of Maine, and White Head Island, off its south-east side, is about 25 miles from Bryer's Island. The soil of the island is generally considered to be good, and the inhabitants are enabled to raise from it the productions of the neighbouring land. The woods, consisting of firs, beech, birch, maple, &c. «&c., are equal in size and quality to any grown in Anu'rica. The western «irfeof the island is veiy straight and uniform, consisting of cliffs which rise to the height of from 180 to 4(X) feet above the sea level. On this side there is but one small inlet in the whole I'ange of clills, and that only capable of affording shelter to boats, though very small vessels, it is said, may run through the narrow entrance at 2 hours before high water ; it is situated about 4 miles south-westward from Bishop's Head, the north point of the island, and is commonly called the Dark Cove, being enclosed by a low and narrow sand-bank, within whirli are 5 and 7 fathoms. Along this coast as far as the South-west Head, there are 3, 4, 5, and 6 fathoms close to the land, deepening to 13, 30, and 40 fathoms at ^ a mile off", and thence rapidly to 45 and 50 fathoms at the distance of a mile. The Hood, running northward, follows the direction of tliis coast, and the ebb the same, setting to the southward ; at springs their velocity ranges from 2^ to 3 knots an hour. Biiihop livad, the western extremity of which is Uiuned Long Eddy Point, forms tlie northern ])oint of Grand JManan, and is abrupt and bold, having at tne distance of ^ of a mile off" it a depth of from 30 to 40 fathoms. The laud over it rises to an alti- tude of 300 and 350 leet.* Th(> coafcni shio of the island is of a nature the very contrary to the western, being lower anil much indented, and having numerous islands olf it, between and among which are several excellent harbours, where, under the guidance of local knowledge, the largest vessels may obtain shelter. Wlinh Gove is on the eastern side of Bishon Head, between it and Swallow's Tail; here small vessels occasionally ride during southerly winds to await a turn of the tide. In it the donth is 12 to 4 fathoms, and the anchorage is said to be moderately good, but it would be very imprudent to remain hero during nortlieriy winds. LoNO Island IHy lies to the south-eastward of Whale Cove, and is formed by the It is intcndoil (1850) to erect a llLflithouio on the northern end of Oraud Mauan. 46 THE MANAN LEDGES. ili Swallow's Tail,* a bold, high, ragged, and barren-looking point, and by Bong Island, which bears S. by W. from its extremity, distant 1^- mile. The bay is open, but pos- sesses all the advantages of a harbour, and affords good shelter from the westward ; the soundings vary from 12 to 5 fathoms, bottom almost wholly of mud, except a ridge of rocks and gravel that extends from the ledge which shows itself within the Swallow's Tail ; some rocks lying :f of a mile off the north end of Long Island, and becoming awash at low water springs ; and the Dutch Ledge, which extends half way over from the shore towards Long Island, and covers at the last quarter flood. In Flag's Cove, the nortiiern corner of the bay, the depths are from 5 to 8 fathoms, bottom of stiff clay, and vessels have frequently been protected there during a severe gale ; when rounding the point next within Swallow's Tail do so at a berth of 2^ to 3 cables' lengths, to avoid the ledge just mentioned, the outer part of which uncovers at the last quarter ebb. Also, just within and westward of the north point of Long Island, ships may anchor in from 12 to 18 feet, even locking in the north end of Long Island with Swal- low's Tail, on a strong muddy bottom, entirely sheltered from the wind and sea, but when making for this anchorage, the north end of Long Island should be rounded at a distance of not less than 3 or 4 cables, to clear the two shallow patches lying off it, and then the island shore should afterwards be approached, to avoid the Dutch Ledge running | of a mile off from the main; Long Island is joined to Grand Manan by the Farmer Ledge, which is always visible. Southward of Long Island are High, Low, and Big Duck Islands ; the two former are connected with one another and with Nantucket Island and Grand Manan by rocky ledges, and have to the northward and southward of them two small bays, wherein are from 3 to 8 fathoms, but it is not recommended to run for either. AH three islands should have a berth of ^ a mile or more, to avoid the rocks surrounding them. Here the Hood runs north, and the ebb south, at a rate of between 2 and 3 knots per hour. A long and narrow ledge, 1| mile in length, runs southward from Big Duck Island, the top of which, near the extremity, is always visible ; within this ledge, between it and lloss, Cheyne, and White Head Islands, is a deep bay, which vessels may enter and run up northward along the inside of the ledge, and anchor under the western side of Big Duck Island, in 3 or 3^ fathoms, good holding ground. A shallow but narrow flat connects the north end of Big Duck Island with Ross Island, which latter is joined to Cheyne, and Cheyne to White Head Island, by broad flats composed of sand and rock, and dry at low water. White Head Island is the largest and outermost of the islands on the south-east side of Grand Manan ; here resides, or did reside, an able and active pilot. It is sur- rounded with reefs, those on the western side being distant one mile from it, and those on the eastern projecting outwards about half a mile. The space to the southward of the island for tlie distance of nearly 4| miles, and with a breadth of 2^, is occupied by a number of detached rocks and shoals, with deep water channels between and around them, which take the general name of the MANAN LEDGES, and consist of the Black Rock, the north-easternmost, which is about 10 feet above high water ; the Brazils, uncovering at low springs ; the Tinker, or north-westernmost, which dries at low water, except at very small neaps ; the Dia- monds, just seen at low water sprinfjs; the Crawley Shoal, of 18 feet; the lians, or westcnimost; the Proprietor, a rock just seen at low water, having foul ground extend- ing nearly 'I of a mile southward I'rom it ; and the Old Proprietor, or the outer and southernmost of these dangers, which uncovers at half tide. Over and through the chamu'ls among these rocks there is a rapid tide-current of from 4 to 6 knots an hour, the llui)d running eastward and north-eastward and the ebb south-westward and west- ward, and lor a considerable distance south-eastward Jrom the Black Rock is a very .leavy tide-rip, on the ebb, known by the name of Bull Head Rip. These ledges shoul'd tiu'reloro have a wide berth, and strangers should very carefully avoid being drawn into either of the passages among them. To avoid them on their eastern side keep I I' these daiiirers is, the north-easternmost high land of Manan well open of the Long and Duck Islands. Durni g an easterly wind the tide-rips are impassable. • A ligbthonie ia In courso of erection on Swallow'* Tail. GEAND MANAN HAEBOTJE AND SEAL COVE. 4^ The Old Proprietor, as before observed, is the outermost and most dangerous of tha Manan Ledges, dries at half ebb, covers a space of half an acre at low water, and when covered has the tide setting strongly over it. There are from 25 to 35 fathoms at \ of a mile southward of it, and when upon it Gannet Rock lighthouse bears W. by S. 5f miles, the Black Rock N. by E. 3| miles, and the South Point of Three Islands N.W. by W. ^ W. 4 miles. The narrow ridge of foul ground running southward from the Proprietor, upon which are from 2 to 4 fathoms, is ^ of a mile westward of the Old Proprietor. The Clark's Ground, a rocky shoal of 6 and 7 fathoms, over which the ebb creates a heavy rippling, lies \\ mile N.E. by E. f E. from the Old Proprietor ; and another, called the Roaring Bull, whereon are 6 or 8 fathoms and usually a heavy and dangerous ripple, is said to lie 3 or 4 miles eastward of it. Geand Habboub is a small and shallow inlet, formed on the south-eastern side of and between Grand Manan and Ross Islands. At its entrance are 5, 4, and 3 fatho.flS, decreasing to 2^ and 2 as you proceed inwards in mid-channel towards the mud flata at the head of the bay, which are dry at low water. This is a convenient place for ships without anchor or cable, as vessels may enter and lie securely on mud. The chan- nel is very narrow, but protected from the sea. High water takes place on the days of full and change at lib. 4m. ; springs rise 17f , neaps 14|^, and neaps range \1\ feet. When making for this harbour in an emergency, you may proceed in between the western side of the Manan Ledges and the Three Islands, or between the Three Islands and Wood Islands, but the aid of a pilot should be obtained. If no such help can be had, and there is no alternative but to run for this place, then in the former case keep to tha southward of the Old Proprietor by the marks just given, and bring Mark's Hill (the greatest elevation on the south side of Grand Manan) open southward of Green Islands (the next within Three Islands), bearing N. by W. \ W., which will carry you betweea the Rans, Diamond, and Tinker Rocks oIachias Seal Island lights. Between this shoal and Grand Manan there is a clear pas- sage, and also between it and the Bull Rock ; but the North Rock and Shoal obstruct the channel between it and Machias Seal Island. The S. E. Ledge has 5 fathoms upon it, rocky bottom, makes a lide-rip, and breaks only in heavy weather. It lies 6 J miles W. j S. I'rom the Yellow Ledge (of the Murr (Jroup); S.W. ^ W. 3;] miles from Bull Rock; and S.E. i S. 5J miles from Machias lights. T/te S.E. Shoal is a very dangerous patch of 7 or 8 feet water, of but small extent, stoep-to. and breaks in heavy weather. It is distant 1\ mile S.E. from Machias Seal Ishuul Lighthouse!*, and has from 15 to 30 fathoms between, except in one little »\H)t, where are only 12 feet; this is situate about j ofa mile from the island. The flo«.d runs over this shoal to the N.E. by N., and the ebb S.W. by S., with u velocity of about 3 knots \yev hour. . , MACHIAS SEAL ISLAND, &c. 49 Among the foregoing dangers are two or three shallow spots of 6, 7, and 8 fathoms, which generally show themselves by a rippling of the tide, but the foregoing are the only rocks that have been at present discovered between the Murr Ledges and Machias Seal Island. Still a stranger would, if circumstances permitted, act wisely in keeping well outside all these ledges, and not attempt any of the passages among them. MACHIAS SEAL ISLAND, &c.— Machias Seal Island is 3 cables in length, and 2 in breadth where broadest, and about 20 feet above high water. A ledge extends f a mile north-eastward from its north end, upon the middle of which is a rock always above water, and connected with the island by a part of the ledge that becomes dry at low tide. On its eastern side, besides the S. E. Shoal above described, there is a spot with only 12 feet on it and 12 fathoms around it, lying -I of a mile E.S.E. from the south point of the island, with 13 fathoms between. On the other sides of the island deep water of 13 and 14 fathoms will be found at less than 2 cables' lengths off. Near the middle of the island, in lat. 44° 30' 7" N., and long 67° 6' 15" W., are two buildings of a white colour, which bear from each other E.S.E. and W.N.W., distant 165 feet. They exhibit fixed lights at 58 and 54 feet above the sea, visible about 15 miles, and are intended as leading lights for clearing the Murrs and other dangers southward of Grand Manan. Vessels standing to the northward and the lights to the westward, 5 miles, when they bring the lights in range, or covering one another, must tack to avoid the Murr Ledges. A gun is fired every 4 hours during a fog as a warning to vessels. From the circumstance of two lights being shown from the same station they will be easily recognised. From the lighthouses the S.E. Shoal bears S.E. 1^ mile distant ; the S.E. Ledge S.E. i S. 5f miles; St. Mary's Ledge, the southernmost of the Murr ledger, E.S.^., southerly, 11| miles ; Wallace Ledge, the northernmost of that group, E.*"^ S. 10 miles ; the S.W. Head of Grand Manan E. by N. ^ N. 10^ miles; the Middle Shoal E.N.E. 5| miles ; and the North Shoal N. ^ Tj. If mile. At 3^ miles. West, from the Seal Island Lighthouses is a rock, which has caused the wreck of several vessels. It was seen by a Captain Johnstone, of the ship Liverpool, trading to St. John's, in 1834, and is said to be well known to the regular traders and pilots. T/ie North Rock, about 4 feet above high water at spring tides, is situated on the middle of a shoal of 3| fathoms, which is about ^ of a »r.ile in «xtent from E.S.E. to W.N.W. Around this rock are from 6 to 14 fathoms almost close to, and there is always a rippling of the tide in its neighbourhood. When on the rock the lighthouses on Machias Seal Island bear S.W. by S. 2^ miles distant, and there are from 15 to 46 fathoms in the channel between it and the ledge extending from the north end of that island. The North Shoal breaks in heavy weather, has 7 or 8 feet over it, and 9 and 12 fatlioms around. It is very small, and bears from the lighthouses N. \ E. If mile, and from the North Rock W. by S., distant rather more than 1 mile. Between it and Machias Seal Island the depths range from 20 to 50 fathoms, and between it and the North Rock from 15 to 26 fathoms. All around and over this shoal there is always a rippling sea. Grand Manak Bank has soundings over it varying from 24 to 30 and 40 fathoms, and makes a tide-rip of very great extent. The flood sets over it in a north-easterly direition, and the ebb in a south-westerly, at a rate of about l\ mile an hour. Its shoalest part (24 fathoms) is situate in lat. 44° 14.^ N., and long. 07° 3' W., or 15^ miles S. £ W. from Machias Seal Island Lighthouses. Around it the depths soon increase from 40 to 40, 00, and 70 fathoms. Between Great Manan and the coast, the channel is from 6 to 10 miles wide, with bold shores. The depths quickly increase on each side, from 12 to 40 and 50 fathoms ; the greatest depth bemg near the north end of Manan, where are from 50 to 55. This ia considered by many to bo the best and safest passage up the Bay of Fundy, as it is the most advantageous with the prevalent winds, which are from the westward. r A88AMAQVODBT BAT lies northward of Grand Manan Island, and is an ex- tensive bay, having over its surface a depth of 14 to 17 fathoms water. Before its entrance are a number of iilands and detached rocky dangers, among which there are generally passages, deep enough for the largest vessels, but, as these passjiges are in- tricate, no vessel ought to attempt to run through them without the assistance of a pilot. The principal of these islands are named Campobello, Moose, Indian, Duer, rendlctou, and Macmaster, the larger of these being Campobello and Deer Ihlauds B so PASSAMAQUODDY BAT. l! < The port in the hay most usually frequented by shipping is St. Andrew's, a well« sheltered roadstead, lying at the extremity of a peninsula 5 or 6 miles within the entrance. Various rivers fall into the bay; the Magaguadavic, on its eastern side, is the outlet of Lake Utopia, and the St. Croix, on its westeni side, is deep enough for moderate-sized vessels ; but, as there are some rocks about half-way up, the navigation requires care. At its head the St. Croix River divides into two streams, that to the northward taking the name of Oak Bay. ,^ Passamaquoddy Bay with the Chapeneticook, or River St. Croix, divides the British American territory from that of the United States. In November, 1817, the com- missioners appointed by the respective governments, under the treaty of Ghent (the last treaty of peace), decided that Moose, Dudley, and Frederick Islands, in the Bay of Passarnaquoddy, should belong to the United States ; and that all the other islands in the same bay, with Grand Manan, in the Bay of Fundy, should belong to Great Britain. The citizens of the United States were to continue to enjoy the riglit of navi- gating through the Ship Channel, between Deer Island and Campobello ; and, of course, through the channel between Moose and Deer Islands. There are three passages into Passamaquoddy Bay, viz., the Western Passage, Head Harbour Passage, or Ship Channel, and the Letite, or Eastern Passage. The first is that between Campobello and the main land to the S.W. ; the Head Harbour Passage lies between Campobello and Deer Island ; and the Letite, or Eastern Passage, runs in to the eastward and northward of both Deer and Campobello Islands. The passage usually adopted by British ships is the latter. The easternmost, and consequently the outermost of the small rocky islets before the entrance to Passamaquoddy Bay, is the White Horse, which appears at a distance like a white rock, but i8''ieally a small islet, barren and destitute of trees, while the islets about it are covered with them ; it, therefore, serves as a beacon. Close-to all round it is deep water of 11 to 20 fathoms. Campobello Island, on the south side of the entrance to Passamaquoddy Bay, is about 7| miles long in a N.E. by N. direction, and 2 miles broad. It has a very irre- gular shape, and its eastern side is bold, there being 20 fathoms at ^ a mile off, which deepens rapidly as you recede from the -land. The southern end of the island is sepa- rated from Quoddy Head by a narrow rocky channel, in which the water is too little to allow any but the very smallest vessels to pass ; vessels therefore usually go north of the island when entering the bay. At the north end of Campobello Island, just under the lighthouse, there is a little har- bour, named Head Harbour, in which the small coasting vessels sometimes find shelter. In it there are 10 to 3 fathoms, and when within, protection is afforded by an island from easterly winds. The bottom is said to consist of mud. The lighthouse on the north-east end of Campobello Island is painted white with a red cross on it ; it is 34 feet high, and shows a fixed light at 64 feet above the sea, visible 15 miles. On the west side of Campobello is the harbour of De Lute, a fine anchorage for vessels, having at its south-west end a place named Snug Cove. Moose Island, on the opposite side of the channel, belongs to the United States, and British vessels are not allowed to ride there above G hours at any one time. A ship of 500 tons may ride, moored head and stern, in a fine cove at the south end of this island, safe from all winds, but the anchors are very much exposed with winds from the east. Quoddy Head is of moderate height, and has a lighthouse upon it 55 feet high, showing a fixed light at 133 feet above the sea, visible 17 miles. The position of the building is in lat. 44° 49' N., and long. 60° 57' W., and as it is painted red and white in horizontal stripes, it appears very conspicuous when making Passamaquoddy Bay from the southward or westward. At about a quarter of a mile without Quoddy Head lie two remarkable rocks, named the Sail Rockf., which, at a distance, resemble a ship ; to the eastward of these there is a wliiilpool. 1*1 passing it is requisite to give these objects a berth of half or three- quarters of a mile before you haul in. Deer Island, within Campobello, is about C^ miles long, and 2^ miles broad, and has an irregular shore, containing several small harbours. Off its north end are a number of little islets, which form with the eastern coast the channel into Passama- quoddy Bay, named the Lotile Passage. This island, with the islets about it, gives such protection to Pausamaquoddy B.iy from the southward, that it may bo considered as perieetly laud-locked. _ . PASSAMAQXJODDT BAT. SI ST. ANDREW'S HARBOUR lies on the eastern side of the River St. Croix, and is formed by a small island named Navy Island, lying off the town, which protects the roadstead from the south-westward. The town is a pleasant little place, and the har- bour being good, is much visited by vessels for the purpose of loading timber, which is longer, and said to be of a better description than that of Nova Scotia. The merchants of this town also load timber at other places, at Oak Bay, in the St. Croix River, and at Bocabec, Digdeguash, and Magaguadavic in the north-eastern part of Passamaquoddy Bay, all of which are excellent harbours. Navy Island is pretty bold-to on the south-western side, but shingly flats extend off it towards the town, and nearly join the flats from the main shore, there being only a very narrow passage between at low water. The channel to the north-westward of the island is very narrow at low tide, the flats nearly joining ; but at high water, spring* tides, there is a depth of 18 to 24 feet. The channel to the eastward of the island is considered to be the best, and it has been well buoyed and marked ; at the narrowest part of the channel is a lighthouse on the town side, which shows a fixed light at 35 feet : here the channel is only 20 fathoms wide, and has a depth at low water of 8 to 14 feet. St. Andrew's Lighthouse, according to Lieut. Koriright's (R.N.) survey in 1844, stands in lat. 45° 4' 10" N., and long. 67° 3' 48" W. It is high water, on the days of full and change, at lOh. 50m. ; springs rise 24 to 26 feet, and neaps 20 to 22 feet. Variation of the compass 15° 33' W. CHAMCOOK HARBOUR, 3| miles to the northward of St. Andre\y's, is one of the best harbours in Passamaquoddy Bay ; indeed, in some respects, it is considered preferable to St. Andrew's, there being more water, and a greater extent of anchorage. Before it there is a large island named Minister Island, which at its southern extremity is connected to the shore by a bar, dry at low water. The entrance to the harbour is therefore round the north end of Minister Island, through the narrow channel which that end of the island forms with the shore. This channel is rocky on either side, and we believe is buoyed ; in it there is a good depth of water for vessels of a moderate size. When within the entrance you may anchor in 6 to 8 fathoms, and be perfectly sheltered from all winds. At the head of the harbour there is a wet dock. In Bocabec Bay, northward of Chamcook Harbour, there is a depth of 9 to 7 fathoms, and protection is afforded to the southward by two small islands, named Hardwood and Hospital Islets. These islands are surrounded for a short distance by a shallow flat, and are connected to each other by a rocky ledge j on their northern side small vessels occasionally anchor in 6 fathoms. To the eastward of Bocabec Bay are Bocabec and Digdeguash Rivers, having at their entrance a number of small islets. DIRECTIONS. — To ran into Passamaquoddy Bay a stranger must always take a pilot, as the many rocky islets at the entrance make the navigation intricate and dan- gerous without the assistance of local knowledge. The Western Passage, between Campobello and Quoddy Head, is at its entrance about a mile wide ; but the passage gradually narrows to the W.N.W., and N.N.W., and at 2 miles up a rocky bar stretches across, which in parts becomes dry at low water. At rather more than a mile within the entrance, you may come to anchor in 5 to 3 fathoms, well sheltered, either by day or night, and can wait for a pilot, who may be obtained, on firing a gun and making the usual signal ; the pilot will take the ship to Snug Cove or Moose Island, whence another may bo obtained for St. Andrew's, the Rivers St. Croix, Magaguadavic, &c. Largo ships, bound into the bay, should pass to the eastward of Campobello, steering N.E. by E. and N.E. towards the Wolves, which lie about 6^ miles eastward from the northern part of Campobello. So soon as the passage between Campobello and the VVhito Horse bears W.N.W., steer for it, leaving the White Horse on your starboard side, and keeping Campobello nearest on board. You will now, proceeding south-westward through the Ship Channel, leave a group of islands on your starboard side, and will next see Harbour De Lute, above-mentioned. Between the Wolves and the north end of Campobello there is a depth of from 00 to 100 fathoms. With the latter bearing S.S.E., or S.E., there is a depth of 19 and 20 fatlionis, where ships may anchor securely from all winds. The courses thence to Moose Ishmd are S.W. by W. I W. and S.W. 5 miles. If bound from Mooso Island up the River St. Croix or Scoodic, as you puss Bald JB 2 52 GENERAL EEMARKC ON THE ¥' ;J,iil- ' Head, opposite Deer Island, give it a berth of half a mile, as a ledge of • ccks lies off it. Having passed this point, the course and distance to Oak Point, or Devil's Head, will be about N. by W., 4 leagues; the latter may be seen from the distance of 10 or 12 miles. On this course you will leave to port Pross Ledge, three-quarters of a mile from land, and 6 miles from Bald Head. In the upward course from this, there are some shoal parts, which may be avoided by the lead. TIDES.— Common tides, within the southern passage of Passamaquoddy Bay, rise about 20 feet. At Welsh Pool, in Campobello Island, the tide flows at lOh. 57m., full and change ; and runs, when strongest, between Moose Island and Marble Island, and between Deer Island and Campobello, nearly 5 miles an hour. In the Bay, the stream of tide is scarcel^r perceptible. It is high water on the eastern side of Grand Manau at lOh. ; springs rise 25 and 20 feet. „ '• r OEKTSRAXi RBMARKS OS i- ■^M THE NAVIGATION OP THE BAY OP PUNDY. Ships navigating the Bay of Pundy have to encounter an atmosphere almost con- stantly enveloped in thick fogs, tides setting with great rapidity over the rocks and shoals with which it abounds, and a difficulty of obtaining anchorage on account of the depth of water ; so that, under these circumstances, the greatest attention is requisite, in order to prevent the disastrous consequences which must necessarily attend a want of knowledge and caution. When off Cape Sable, with a westerly wind, and destined for the Bay, it is best to make the coast of the United States, about the Skuttock Hills and Little Manan Lighthouse,* as you can pass with greater safety to the westward of Grand Manan than to the eastward, and can have shelter, if required, in the several harbours of that coast. Between Grand Manan and the coast of Maine the passage is free from danger; vessels beating through, generally stand from side to side, particularly in fogs, the depth being irom 12 to 50 fathoms, with a bold shore on each side, and the tide through regular and strong. The Wolf Islands may be passed on either side, as there is deep water close-to ; but they afford no sheltered anchorage, except for small fishing vessels in summer time. With light winds, a lee tide, or thick weather, you may let go an anchor anywhere between the Wolf Islands and Beaver Harbour, in good holding ground, in a depth of 20 or 25 fathoms. Point Lepreau is bold-to, and was formerly considered dangerous in dark weather, as it projects so far into the sea, but its light- house, with double lights, is now an excellent guide. Hence to St. John's the com'se is free from danger. When steering between Grand Manan and Bryor's Island, the utmost caution is requisite during thick weather, as vessels are frequently drawn amongst the islands and ledges to the southward of Manan by the flood setting directly on them : the most dangerous is the Old Proprietor (see page 47), which, at low water, is uncovered for the space of half an acre. When the wind, therefore, veers at all to the southward, make the best of your way to St. John's Harbour, or you may secure an anchorage in Grand Passage or St. Mary's Bay, as it seldom blows in that direction above 18 hours with- out bringing on a fog. The prevailing winds here, and on all the coast of Nova Scotia, are from W.S.W. to S.W. nearly as steady as trade-winds ; excepting that during the summer months they are rather more southerly, and accompanied, with but little intermission, by fog, which requires a north-westerly wind to disperse it. It is, therefore, recommended not to leave an anchorage without making arrangements for reaching another before dark, or the appearance of a fog coming on, which with a S.W. wind is so sudden, that you are * Little or Petit Manan Lif-htUouse exhibits a Axed light, varied by flashes every two minutes i lat. 44° 22 N., long. 67" 63 ^Y. NAViaATION OF THE BAT OF FUNDT. 58 unawares enveloped in it ; nor to keep at sea during the night, if it can he avoided. Whenever the wind blows directly off the land, the fog is soon dispersed. The tides are very rapid, but regular ; and although the wind against them alters the direction of the rippling, and sometimes makes it dangerous, it has little or no eflfect Ujpon their courses. The flood sets from Cape Sable to the north-westward through the Seal Island and Bald Tusket Passages, at two or three knots in the hour ; after which its rate increases to 4 or 5 knots ; thence taking the direction of the shore, it flows past Cape St. Mary, and then N.N.W. towards Bryer's Island : it sets but slowly up the extensive Bay of St. Mary, which adds to its strength along the eastern shore ; then increasing its rapidity as the Bay of Fundy contracts, it rushes in a bore into the Basin of Mines and up Chignecto Bay. Between Bryer's Island and the opposite northern coast, and for some distance up the Bay of Fundy to the eastward, the first of the flood sets strong to the northward (nearl3r North) ; so that it will be extremely dangerous for a vessel to run in the night or thick weather, from any part of the southern to the northern coast, without making a large allowance for the set of the tide, and keeping the lead constantly going. The following note on the Navigation of the Bay of Fundy is by Com. W. Peel, H.M.S. Daring .-— " The prevailing winds in this Bay during the months of July, August, and Septem- ber are from S.E. and S.S.W., which roll in before them a dense wall of fog that pene- trates everywhere, and which is only occasionally lifted by a change of wind from the northward. The navigation, therefore, during this period, particularly in the month of August, requires gi'eat firmness and caution, but is far from being so dangerous as represented. Unfortunately, from the short summer of the climate, and long severity of winter, the whole activity of trade is compressed into this brief period. The northern shore of the Bay of Fundy is clear and bold- to, in its whole extent, with several beautiful harbours, and a safe deep passage between it and Grand Manan Island, whilst the Wolf Islands, or the very remarkable rock named the * White Horse,* are a guide against being carried by the tide into the channels that open the Passama- quoddy Waters. A ship, therefore, may with proper precautions navigate along the shore in perfect safety. It is the passage between Grand Manan Island and the Nova Scotia shore that is really dangerous, but here no ship should attempt to pass without the prospect of clear weather. She may anchor in Bryer's Island Passage, if coming from the northward, or in St. Mary's Bay, if from the south, until an opportunity occurs. To pass through the passage formed by Jryer's Island would at once clear everything ; but the tide runs through with great rapidity, and breaks across in a heavy ripple. A rock also exists in the channel, the position of which is not generally known. The Daring attempted once to beat through, but the pilot had mistaken the time of tho tide, and when half way, losing his nerve, he gave up charge. I have no doubt, however, but that it would be of great service to the commerce of St. John's, New I3runswick, to have attention drawn to this passage, as the means of clearing the dangers outside ; for there is this other advantage in standing close in to the Nova Scotia shore, which is the reverse on the other side of the bay, that the fog seldom comes close home. For this reason, and also on account of the Bank of Soundings, in coming from the eastward into the Bay of Fundy, I would prefer coming up by the Nova Scotia shore, to standing across for the other side, as recommended in the General Directions. The tides in the Bay of Fundy, though extremely rapid, are very regular, and the wind, during these months, seldom blows with violence, or without dispersing the fog in the immediate vicinity of land. The water, also, in the bay above Grand Manan, is smooth, though rendered dangerous to boats in many places from the rippling of the tides. I will not attempt to describe the several harbours that the Daring visited. A pilot is necessary for a first acquaintance ; but nowhere better than in tne Bay of Fundy, from the vivid recollection of the land, that is impressed upon the mind by anxious attention, can one so quickly learn to dispense with Iris services. I would recommend a ship stationed in the Bay of Fundy to make Digby, in the Basin of Annapolis, her chief resort. A ship's company can here have liberty without being exposed to the great bribes for desertion offered at St. John's ; fresh provisions are cheap and excellent, and water can easily be obtained by tho ship's boats without 54 GENEEAIi EEMAEKS OKT THE w £■■■' I ■' ' ! ^ ■.- in;.-, i iii IM |-:f i having to purchase it, as at the former place. The Basin of Annapolis also is more free from fog than any other place, and the entrance is wide enough for a ship to work through," — Nautical Magazine, December, 1848. The following remarks on the " Passage into the Bay of Fundy " are by Mr. R. Leighton, master of the barque Royal Adelaide:— " Our Directions recommend ships bound to the bay to make the Skuttock Hills upon the United States* coast, and enter by the Grand Manan channel ; one side of which is formed by the main land, and its approach is facilitated by lights and sound- ings. Where the shores are not bold, and the lead a good guide, the dangers are pointed out by lighthouses in clear weather, and fog signals when it is thick : thus the danger from fogs in this channel is much lessened, and as the assistance of St. Andrew's pilots is generally procurable here, with this local aid detention seldom occurs, when bound to St. Andrew's. The tides in this channel are regular, and by using it you avoid, by closing with the main land, the rapid tides setting upon Grand Manan and its ledges both ways. It is allowed to be the best channel into the bay, but it is not much used by St. John's ships. The reasons which they assign are, chiefly, that within the bay the channel for them is on the wrong side. They first object to running to leeward when approaching the bay with north-easterly winds, which occasionally continue a considerable time, and they hold to the weather shore, making the Nova Scotia Banks of Soundings a check in making Bryer's Island ; but this is an isolated point, being divided from the main land by St. Mary's Bay, and the guides in approaching it are not equal to those on the other side. In the channel there is a ledge upon Bryer's Island side and the Old Proprietor (see ])ages 36 and 47), forming the long projecting point of the Grand Manan Ledges, and they not being indicated by beacons or lighthouses, render this channel dangerous ; the banks are too steep to render soundings a good guide j and the marks upon Grand Manan frequently, even in fine weather, cannot be made out, and there are no guns, or gongs, when you meet with a thick fog.* But this passage, with all its faults, is generally used to St. John's, because the Nova Scotia side of the bay is more bold and straight than the other, and the tides more regular ; so that in thick weather their effects can be better calculated, whilst upon the other side the freshets, in that season, cause a superficial current, which both upsets any calculation of the tides, and renders the log useless ; and, in the lower parts, the rapid tides setting upon Grand Manan render the calm almost as dangerous as the gale in thick weather. But however you may avoid tides and currents bound to St. John's, there is no avoiding the dense fogs of the Bay of Fundy ; and, in this respect, the position of St. Andrew's gives it a great advantage. It is known that upon the American coasts it is, frequently, a thick fog over the sea, while the land is clear, particularly if the wind be not blowing directly upon the coast ; and provided that soundings give sufficient warning, and the wind admits of hauling off, the land may often be approached by the lead, and your position ascertained or even your port gained. Whilst the Bay of Fundy is full of dense fog, St. Andrew's Bay, with the islands forming it, and the channels between them, may be all fine and clear. I have laid wind-bound upon Bar Island reef for four days, with the winds south, and south- easterly, and the edge of a dense fog in the bay, running along from Head Harbour to Wolf Islands, while we had fine, clear weather; and ships coming through the Grand Manan channel, and bound to St. Andrew's, emerging from the fog, like coming through a door in a wall, and finishing their passage in similar fine clear weather; but those bound to St. John's must still contend with that formidable danger to this navigation. The freshets in the spring of the year, the nearness of the Falls to the town of St. John's, throwing so large a volume of water into that harbour, and the tortuous points of the river, render the current so strong, and produce such whirling eddies, that but a small portion of the river is available for ships to anchor in ; and with strong southerly winds a strong lipper comes into the harbour, and their roadstead also is open to this wind. But whatever natural defects the harbour may have, or whatever obstructions there may be to the navigation in reaching it, the skill and energy of its inhabitants are undoubted; and all must admire the fine model of their ships, and their admirable combination of sailing and carrying qualities. But nature * Vuh deacription of Macliias Seal Island and Gannet Rock lighthouses, pages 47 to 49. NAViaATION OF THE BAT OF FUNDT. 6S has been more favourable to St. Andrew's ; her capacious land-locked bav guards her fine anchorages. St. Andrew's is a fine harbour, but the anchorage in the stream is rather small, and some of the wharves are dry at low water, but have a fine gravel bottom. Chamcook is the best natural harbour that I have ever seen, and I think may challenge comparison with any in the world. It is completely land-locked, and although it has a rise and fall of 30 feet, yet it is nearly tideless ; the high bar of Minister Island, which connects that island to the main land, only overflowing at high tide. Minister Island forms the outer boundary of the harbour, leaving the entrance rather narrow, having a spit from each point (as there are from all points), but quite safe. They would only require a beacon on them ; the anchorage is large, and good holding- ground. I found the bottom foul within 3 fathoms at low water, but a fine line of tidal wharves might be constructed upon the sides of the creek, which brings down the water from a lake at a considerable elevation above the tidal level, and which passes through the saw-mill dam. I beg the worthy proprietor's pardon, I should have said that the lake was a reservoir and sluice to the first float dock in British North America. Nature has in those respects been more favourable to St. Andrew's than to St. John's, and now that it is to be the terminus of the great North American railway, there is a great field open for the skill and energy of her inhabitants to raise her to a flourishing condition ; and it is to be hoped that the results of that great work may be good and widely spread, and facilitate both commercial and social improvements in extension." — Nautical Magazine, 1849, page 248. PASSAMAQUODDY BAY TO CAPE ELIZABETH. The most remarkable elevations of land between Passamaquoddy Bay and Cape Elizabeth are the Skuttock and Mount Desert Hills and the Hills of Penobscot. T le Skuttock Hills are five in number, and at a distance appear of a round form ; they lie to the N.N.E. of the Port of Goldsborough, and are readily distinguishable from any hills to the eastward. The Mount Desert Hills may, in clear weather, be seen from a distance of 15 to 20 leagues. The Penobscot Hills can be seen over the Fox Islands, when bearing from N.W. to N.N.W. When within 4 or 5 leagues of the Mount Desert Hills, the Skuttock Hills will bear about N.N.E. When approaching the land from the southward and eastward, the first object seen will probably be the Mount Desert Rock, as it is the outermost rocky islet oft' the coast of Maine, and is readily distinguished by its lighthouse. The rock itself is small, but the lighthouse being 60 feet high, will be sufficiently apparent ; it is of a grey colour, and shows a fixed light at 75 feet above the sea, visible 14 miles in clear weather.* The bearing of the rock from the lighthouse on Baker's Island, at the entrance of Mount Desert Harbour, is said to be S. 12° W. about 15 miles. Near Mount Desert Rock, at the distance from it of 3,614 feet in a S.W. by S. durection, there is a ledge of 3 fathoms, named the Columbia|Ledge, from the ship com- manded by Captain Owen, R.N., who discovered it. Close to it, inside, are said to be 22 fathoms, and outside from 17 to 30 fathoms. At the Mount Desert Kock, the stream of flood divides, and runs eastward and westward. With the Skuttock Hills bearing N.N.E., and within the distance of 5 leagues of those of Mount Desert, the tide of flood sets E.N.E., and the ebb W.S.W. ; but at 9 or 10 leagues from the land, the current, in general, sets to the S.W. and more westward. From the Mount Desert Rock to the Fox Islands the flood-stream sets W.S.W. along the shore ; but it still runs up to the northward into Blue Hill Sound, Isle-au-Haut Bay, &c. LITTLE RIVER.— This harbour lies about 15 miles south-westward from Quoddy Head, and nearly due west from the middle of Grand Manan Island ; it is the first harbour met with after leaving Passamaquoddy Bay, the inlets forming Ba.ylis Mistake, Haycock Harbour, and Moose Cove, being of no value to shipping. The harbour requires a pilot to assist you to enter, and it is said that the entrance cannot be seen until you approach the northern shore, and that you should not run for it before it beai's N.W. or N.N.W. There is a bbift" point of rocks on the starboard hand, going in, * A fog-bell is attached to this lighthouse. 66 MACHIAS BATS. It W\i, IM I I' -i \ m and an island In the middle of the harbour. In entering, leave the island on your porfc side, and Avhen you have passed it half a mile, you may anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms, muddy bottom, and be protected from all winds. The land between this harbour and Quoddy Head trends N.E. by E. ^ E., above 4 leagues. As a guide to assist vessels in making Little Kiver Harbour, a small light flashing every 1^' is shown from the island at the entrance, at 40 feet above the sea level, which is visible about 10 miles. AKACBZAS BATS. — There are two bays lying to the westward of Little River Harbour, of which the larger is the westernmost. The Great Machias Bay is about 5 miles in extent, and has at its head the town of Machias, situated at the junction of two streams, named the East and West Rivei's. The assistance of a pilot is necessary to enable a stranger to enter either bay. LITTLE MACHIAS BAY.— The entrance to this bay is about 2 miles to the westward of Little River Harbour, and has before it a number of small islets, about which there may be unseen dangers, so that they must be cautiously approached. These islets lie nearly in the middle of the entrance, and are said to have 8 and 12 fathoms close to them. When within, the bay has a N.N.W. ^ N. direction, and we believe possesses good anchorage on the port side, in a depth of 5 to 2 fathoms, but open to the south-eastward. At a short distance from the west side of Little Machias Bay is an island 2 miles in extent, named Cross Island. This island lies on the east side of Great Machias Bay, and is separated from the shore by a i^arrow passage, in which are said to be 4 and 1^ fathoms ; but it would not be prudent for a vessel to attempt to run through without the assistance of local knowledge, as the channel has rocks in it. GREAT MACHIAS BAY.— The entrance to this bay bears N.W. ^ W., 14 leagues, from Bryer's Island Lighthouse ; N.W. by W. ^ W., 22 miles, from Gannet Rock Lighthouse ; and N.W. ^ W., lOg miles, from the lighthouses on the Machias Seal Isle. The Machias Seal Isle and Gannet Rock are nearly true East and West from each other, at the distance of about 14 miles, and several dangerous ledges lie between them.* Directly fronting the entrance of Great Machias Bay, within the distance of a league, are two small islets named the Lihhee or Liby Isles, on the southernmost of which is a lighthouse coloured grey, 35 feet high, exhibiting a fixed light at 52 feet above the sea, visible 12 to 15 miles. Attached to the building is a fog-bell, which is rung in misty weather. At a league N.E. \ N., from this lighthouse is the S.W. end of Cross Island, previously mentioned. In sailing for this bay from the Seal Islands, and steering N.W. ^ W., you will gain sight of the Libbee Isles' Lighthouse, which is to be left on the port side : rounding these isles you theace proceed North into the bay, taking care to avoid the ledge run- ning off 1^ mile from the south-west end of Cross Island. On this course you will leave on the port side a large white rock, named the Channel Rock ; and, unless bound upward into Machias Harbour, you may haul to the westward. When you have advanced half a mile above this rock, bring a high round island, covered with trees, to bear North, when you may anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms, muddy bottom ; but should you intend to go up to the town of Machias, keep on a north course, until you have advanced above a high round island on your port hand ; you then steer W.N.W. or N.W. by W., for a point covered with birch-trees, and having a house on it. On the starboard hand there are flats and shoals. You may keep on the port hand after you pass this house, until the river opens to the northward, when you may run up to Cross River, and anchor in 4 fathoms. From Machias Bays westward as far as Goldsborough, a distance of about 35 miles, the coast is so intricate and studded with such a multitude of islands and rocks, that no description we could give of it would be of service. It has as yet been but indifferently surveyed, and our knowledge of its dangers is still very imperl'ect, so that vessels when sailing along or visiting its harbours will do well to use extra caution. In succes- sion are passed the harbours of Buck's, Little Kennebec River, Englishman's Bay, Moose-a-beck Beach, Indian River, Pleasant River, Narraguagus Bay,t Dyer's Bay, &c., in several of which vessels may anchor in the greatest security, but the access to them is too difficult for strangers to attempt. In sailing along after quitting Machias * It is intended to erect a lighthouse on Round Island, in Machias Bay. t On the south-eastern point of Pond Island, Narraguastis Bay, there is a reu building 29 feet high, which shows a fixed light at 45 feet above the sea, visible 12 miles. PLEASANT RIVEE, &o. m Bays, you first pass the Libbee Islands, then Head Harbour Island, the Wass Islands, Nashes Island, and afterwards Petit Manan Island. The course and distance I'rom off the Libbee Islands to a berth off the Great Wass Island are about S.W. by W., 10 milf 3, and from the latter to the Little Manan Isle W. by S., 13^ miles. The first lighthouse met with after passing that of the Libbee Islands, is one erected on Head Harbour or Mistake Island, off Moose Peake Beach. It is a white building 40 feet hi^h, exhibiting a light flashing every 30", at 65 feet above the sea, visible about 14 miles. On Nashes Island, at the east side of the entrance to Pleasant River, there is a light- house, showing a fixed flashing light of a red colour, at 47 feet above the mean level of the sea, visible 12 miles in clear weather. From this light Black Rock, which is always above water, bears S.E. by S. \ S., 3^- miles, and Jourdan's Outer Ledge, which ia covered at high water, S.W. by W. \ W., four miles. On the south end of Petit Manan Island ihexe is a lighthouse 109 feet high, which shows a fixed light, flashing every 2' at 125 feet above the sea, visible about 17 miles. In the vicinity of this lighthouse there are many dangerous ledges, extending from it from 2 to 5 miles. We believe that a fog-hell has lately been attached to this lighthouse, which is sounded in thick weather every 20". Petit Manan Island is almost connected to the shore by a ledge which dries at low water. Prom the lighthouse Moulton's Ledge, w\ich dries at low tide, bears W. by N., distant 4 miles ; Jackson's Ledge, or Eastern K >ck, on which there are 12 feet at low water, bears East, 4 miles ; the S.E. Rock, on which are 7 fe-jt, bears S.E. by S., 4 miles J and a ledge of 16 feet S.S.E., 2 miles. In steering from Petit Manan Island to a berth off the Great Wass Island, already noticed, the course and distance are E. by N., 13| miles; am' from th; latter to the Libbee Lighthouse, off Machias Buy, N.E. by E. 10 miles. GOLDSBOROUGH HARBOUR.— To run into Goldsborough i t anger ought to have the assistance of a pilot. The Skuttock Hills, previot'sly mentioned as ! ing to the N.N.E. of the harbour, form a good mark iu runniT- ;- r the entranc.-; as by bringing them in that direction, and steering on that cour: i, yc - will, on approaching the harbour, see the Petit Manan Lighthouse, which sho. id be left on the starboard hand. This lighthouse stands at about a league to the southward of the point between Dyer's Bay and Pigeon Hill Bay. At the entrance to the harbour there is an islet covered with trees on the eastern and two on the western side. Within the entrance the harbour is a mile wide, and you may anchor in from 4 to 6 fathoms, whore you please. The course in is N.N. W. 1^ mile, then N. ^- E., 4 miles, when you may anchor in 3 to 4 fathoms, safe from all winds, on a muddy bottom. PLEASANT RIVER.— This river lies eastward of Goldsborough, and equally with that harbour requires the assistance of a pilot to carry you in, as it would be exceed- ingly imprudent for a stranger to attempt to run in without. When coming iVom the westward, you leave Petit Manan Island on the port hand at the distance of about \ ^ mile, and in passing it must pay particular at'^'^ntion to the rocks and ledges scattered about in its vicinity; steer then about N.E. 1 > »• iles, and it will carry you up with Nashes Island, which you must leave on your starboard hand, at the distance of i of a mile. The course then is N.E. by E.,2| nnles,into Tibbett's Narrows— a narrow channel \ of a mile wide, formed by Tibbett's Island on the N.W. side, and on the S.E . side by Ram Island. By steering N.E. \ E., one niik from the middle of these Narrows, you will reach Shabby Island, which you lef. n: ou your starboard hand at the distance of one- eighth of a mile ; and when \ a mile above it may anchor in from 5 to 6 fathoms, good holding-ground. Shabby Island bearing S.W. by S. Coming in from sea, and eastward of all the shoals and ledges, bring Nashes Island Light to bear N. by W., and run up for it, taking care not to approach the southern end of the island nearer than half a mile, as there is a sunken ledge fully one-third of a mile from the shore. It is necessary to be careful when entering, as the river has not been surveyed. DYER'S BAY.— Immediately eastward of the entrance to Goldsborough Harbour is Dyer's Bay, which may be entered by giving Petit Manan Island a berth of half a mile, leaving it on the starboard hand. If you bring the light to bear N.E., at three- quarters of a mile, a N. by W. course will carry you into the mouth of the bay, leaving a large dry ledge on the port hand ; when abreast of this ledge, which is hold- to, give it a berth of 15 or 16 fathoms, then steer N. \ E., about 4 miles, for a berth, where you may anchor, safe from all winds, in 4 or 5 fathoms, muddy bottom. H Ik \ I r u i U 68 MOUNT DESEET ISLAND. ■I ' Vm BOWBEAE HARBOUR lies close to Djer's Bay, and with that bay must be entered by the assistance of a pilot. In approaching from the westward, and bound for Pigeon Hill or Bowbear Harbour, bring Petit Manan light to bear N.E., and rua for it, giving it a berth of a quarter of a mile, and then steer N. ^ W., about 4 miles. In steering this course you will leave the Egg Rock on your starboard hand, when you will make the westerly shore, giving it a berth of half a mile; then steer N.N.F., a mile, when you will be opposite Dyer's House, and may anchor, in 3 fathoms, safe from all winds. Prospect Harbour, westward of Goldsborough, is frequented principally by the coasters. MOVNT DESERT ZSKASTD is a large island of about 10 miles in extent, which may bo easily recognised by the hills upon it. On its southern side there is a deep inlet, named Soaraes Sound, at the head of which is the small village of Eden. This inlet has several islets at its entrance, which make the approach rather difficult ; but when within there is said to be a depth of 7 to 4 fathoms. The names of the islands before the Sound are the Great and Little Cranberries, Sutton's and Bear Islands. At the entrance to the Sound are two good harbours, called the North-east and South-west Harbours, the approach to which should always be made with the assistance of a pilot, as the navigation is intricate, and the harbours have not been surveyed. Sear Island is a small island covered with spruce trees, lying nearly in the centre of the passage between Sutton's and Mount Desert Islands. It has a lighthouse of red brick u))on its western end, which shows a fixed white light at 97 feet above the sea, visible 15 miles in clear weather. From Baker's Island Light, this light bears about N.W. by N., distant 5^ miles ; monument on Bunker's Dry Ledge, W. by N. \ N., 2^ miles ; Granite Ledge, (8 feet at low water,) W. \ N., one mile ; outer end of Long Ledge, X.E. J N., 4-^- miles ; north-west point of Cranberry Island, N. by E. \ E., 4 miles; and Flynn's Ledge, N.E. by N., 3 miles. Baker's Island and Cranberry Island form the western side of the entrance of the passage to Bear Island, and are covered with spruce trees. Baker's Island LigJit, situated near the centre of the island, is elevated 105 feet above the level of the sea, and exhibits a fixed light, flashing every 1' 30", visible, in clear weather, at the distance of 17 miles. A fog bell is struck by machinery once every 12 seconds during thick and foggy weather. Mount Desert Eastern Pass. — When approaching from the westward, an' bound into Mount Desert, bring Baker's Island Light to bear North, and run lor it, leaving it on your port hand. After passing it, steer N.N.W. until the light on Bear Island bears VV.N.W., and run direct for it. In running this course you will pass Sutton's Island on your port hand : its shores are very bold, and you may approach them to within one cable's length ; this island lies near the centre of the passage, but the best water is to the northward of it. If, huwevcr, you are desirous of going to the westward of it, when between Bunker's Lodge and Cranberry Island, steer W. by S. until Sutton's Island eastern point bears N.E. ; you may ticn anchor, or run tarther in, into Hadlock's Harbour, to the south of you, or steer W.N.W., about 3 miles for S.W. Harbour. Bunker's Ledjfc, on which is a stone beacon with a cask placed on a stafl' in its centre, bears from the eastern end of Sutton's Island, E. \ N., about a mile ; this ledge you leave on your starboard hand. When api)roaching the ledge, you can do so to within 2 cables' lengths. When the light on Baker's Island is entirely obsciirod behind the eastern jwint of Cranberry Island, you are then westward of Bunker's Ledge; and if you have a head wind, may run to the northward until the light on Bear Island bears W. by N. In running for IJear Island Light, you may appi'oach Bunker's Ledge, to within a cable's li-ngth, loaving it on your starboard hand, and after passing the light about a quarter of a mile, nuiy anchor in 12 fathoms water, with the light bearing from East to E.N. E., good holding-ground; or you may run for N.E. Harbour, about a mile to the northward of the light. About hivlf a mile to the N.W. by W. of Bear Island Light there is a /o/yc, bare at low water, having on its western edge a spar-buoj', painted black, which you leave on your starboard hand; this ledge bears I'rom the centre of N.E. Harbour S. ,\ W. Bi Tl .E. Harbour S. i W. Bunker's Ledgo bears from Baki-r's Island Light N. by W., distant about 1. miles, ear Island Light bears from IJunker's Ledge, W. byN."i N., distant about 3 miles, he middle of Cranberry Island bears fronj Bunker's Ledge S.S.W., distant 1] mile. BLUE HILL SOUND. 59 N. I N., iE.,4 Baker's Island and Cranberry Island, as before stated, form the western side of the entrance of the passage to Bear Island. A bar extends from Baker's Island to Cran- berry Island, which is covered at high water; this opening is often mistaken by strangers for the passage into Cranberry Island Harbour. You must always recollect, that before entering Cranberry Island Harbour, the light on Baker's Island will be entirely obscured behind the eastern point of Cranberry Island. You may go in on either side of Bunker's Ledge, but strangers should leave it on the starboard hand. Between Herring Cove and Bear Island Light, near the north shore, are several rocks and ledges, covered at high water. The S.W". Hahboub op Mount Desert. — This is one of the best harbours on the coast, as it will accommodate a large number of vessels, as many as 100 having been at anchor here at one time. To run in, if coming from the westward, when up with Long Island, steer N.N.E., 6 miles, leaving the Two Duck Islands on your starboard, and the Three Calf Islands on your port hand ; this course will bring you up midway between the Great Cranberry Island and Mount Desert : you now steer up midway, until you open S.W. Harbour, when you may haul in N.W. or W.N.W., keeping nearest the starboard hand, on account of a ledge on the port hand, which runs oft" half a mile, and anchor, in 5 or 6 fathoms, muddy bottom, safe from all winds. It is high water here at 12h., the rise of tide being about 12 feet. Off the S.W. point of Cranberry Island, there is a rock bearing from it about West, distant 'f of a mile. The eastern passage into South-west Harbour is situated between Bear Island and Sutton's Island, after having passed which you may run for the harbour according to the above instructions. FRENCHMAN BAY lies on the east side of Mount Desert Island, and is a large inlet containing a number of islands. In it are the harbours of Mosquito and Winter,* Flander's Bay, Taunton and Shilling Rivers, and the town of Sullivan, which wo believe allbrd moderate accommodation to small vessels. The access to this bay has been represented as difficult without the assistance of local knowledge. It has not yet been examined, and we possess no information of it which we could depend upon as accurate. BASS HARBOUR is a small harbour at the south-west end of Mount Desert Island. It has a bar at the entrance over which only vessels drawing 8 feet can pass at low water. The access is therefore rather difficult, and requires the assistance of local knowledge.f When you leave this harbour and are bound to the eastward, it is said that you should steer E. by S. till you get up with Baker's Island Light, which lies to the east- ward of tlio Cranberry Islands ; then steer E. by N., 4 leagues, to Skuttock Island. When you pass this Island, and are bound to Goldsborough, you must steer N.E. about 5 leagues, and keep that course till you bring Goldsborough harbour to bear N.N.W. ; then you must leave throe islands on your port and one on your starboard hand, and run into the harbour, where you may anchor in 5 or G fathoms, and lie safely from all winds. BLUE HILL SOUND, to the westward of Mount Desert Island, is the wide inlet into which the Union River falls. (>ver its surface there arc a great number of islands and rocks, so that it is quite impossible for a stranger sul'oly to navigate its waters. The dopth of water is, we believe, sufficient for the largest ships, but on account of the intricacy of its channels only the coasters visit it. The principal islands hefore its entrance are the Ducks Islets, Long, Little and Orcat Placentia, JMarshall's, and Burnt Coat Islands ; the outermost of which are the Ducks and Long Islands. The following instructions have been given for this Sound : — " As soon as you are past Long island, you will open a large Sound to the N.N.W., which course you are to steer (! or 7 leagues, when you will be up with RobertsDii's Island, leaving the Ship and Burgo on your port hand. Robertson's Island is the only island near that place that has a liouso upon it. The south part of that island is clear of trees, on which the house stands. When you ai)proach the sou<'' part of the island, give it a berth of i of a mile, as there are several sunken rocks oil" t he i)oint. When you bring this islnnd from S.W. to N.W., you nniy anchor in G or 7 fathoms water, muddy bottom; but ifyo'iaro bound to Blue Hill Hiy.you may stand to the northward direct • On the Kor.lli point of Mark Isliuid. Winter llnrlwur. tlur.' i^' n snmll flxcil Jijjlit. t On tlu' cast Hide of tlio cntr»nce to Hbs» lUrbour there Is a small Hashing light of red colour, visiblu ISmilco. 60 PENOBSCOT BAY. i for the Blue Hills, which you may sec 10 or 15 leagues distant. If bound to Union Eiver, you should take a pilot at Robertson's Island, as it is not prudent for a stranger to go further without one." ISLE-AU-HAUT. — South-westward of Mount Desert is Isle-au-Haut, a remarkable land, composed of high, steep cliffs, which has a large bay on each side of it. On its eastern end there is good landing and anchorage at half a mile off, in 18 fathoms, with the low point bearing N.E. by N., where there is a stream of water falling into the sea. The highest part of the island is in the middle, and presents the appearance of a saddle.* PEWOBSCOT BAT. — This is one of the largest and most important bays in the northern provinces of the United States, and contains the most easily accessible anchorages of the whole coast between Cape Cod and the Bay of Fundy. At the head of the bay is the River Penobscot, which collects its waters in the northern part of the State of Maine, at about 200 miles from the coast : this river runs through several lakes in its course, and afterwards unites Avith what is named the Eastern Branch, and then taking a southei-ly direction, it falls into the sea. Near the outlet of the river is the town of Bangor, situated at about 50 miles from the sea, and which is accessible to vessels of about 30 tons burthen. In Penobscot Bay there are various islands, the principal of which are Long Island, opposite the port of Castinc, and the Fox Islands more at the entrance of the bay ; this latter group of islands occupies an extent of about 10 miles, and, together with Isle-au- Haut, form what is termed Isle-au-Haut Bay. Outside the entrance of Penobscot Bay are Matinicus, Wooden Ball, Seal, and other islands, the exact locality of which can be best seen by u reference to the chart. Of}' the south-western side of Isle-au-Haut is the Saddle Back Ledge, a high black rock, somewhat resembling a saddle, on the S.E. end of which is a lighthouse, built of granite, 36 feet high, which shows a fixed light at 51 feet above the sea, visible 13 miles. From this light the south point of Isle-au-Haut bears S.E. by E. \ E., distant about 2^ miles; Seal Island, S. by W., about 10 miles; Wooden 15all Island, S.W. by S. ; Matinicus Island, S.W. \ VV., 12 miles ; Brimstone Island, W. \ N., 2 miles ; Little Isle-au-Haut Harbour, N.E. by E, \ E., G miles distant ; Eagle Island Light, North, distant about 15 miles; and Fox Island thoroughfare, N. by W., distant about 8 miles. At about 2 miles, N.W. by W., from the light there is a small sunken ledge, which breaks at low tides with a little motion of the sea. 'Y\\Q Matinicus Islands \ic southward of the Fox Islands, directly before the entrance of Penobscot Bay, and have between them a passage of 30 to 30 fathoms water. To the eastward of these islands, about 6 miles, is the Seal Rock, and between is another rock to the south-eastward. The outermost of the Matinicus group of islands is the Wooden Ball Koek, which is distant 7 miles, N.N.E.,from the JVIatinicus Lighthouse. This group of islands should not be approached closely until surveyed, as there may bo some dangers not yet discovered. On a rock, a little southward of the larger Matinicus Island, there are two fixed lights at 85 and *J0 feet above the sea, visible about 15 miles, and also a bell which is struck 10 times in a minute during foggy weather ; from these lights Seal Island bears N.E. by N., distant 1 miles. It is said that when you are sailing along the coast in a N.E. and S.W. direction, these lights will ajmear separate, but when sailing N.N.W. and S.S.E. they appear .ii one; hence they will be open when you are approach- ing Penobscot Bay. ISLE-AU-HAUT B.\Y.— When making the lighthouse on Saddle Hack Ledge, bring it to bear from N.W. by N. to N. by VV., and rtiii it close aboard, leaving it on your port hand. If bound up the bay, bring tlio light to bear South, and steer Nortli for t'.ie light on Eagle Island, which you may approach to within ono cable's length, by leaving it on you" port hand. Alter passing Euglo Island Light, steer N.N.W., about 8 miles, which course and distance will bring you up with the Chaimel Jtock.f which you leave on your starboard hand. Give it a berth of ono-eightli of a mile, and steer N. by E., about 10 miles, for Dice's Head Light. When running this course you will pass Cape Rosier, a high bluff, which you leave on your starboard hand. ♦ On .Spoon Islaml, one of tlic emnll islands off tlie east side of Islo-au-IUut, a liuhthouHo la being built. t TJio Ohannol Rock m»y bo known by its being a small rock of n yellowUh colour, lying to the wotwaul of ft small group of Ulauda ; it may at all times bo »uun above the water. PENOBSCOT BAY. 61 Westward of the Matinicus Islands are the Green Islands, Metinick, St. George's, and Manheigin Islands, between which are various passages suitable for the coasters, excepting the channel between Green and Metinick Islands, where there is a reef of rocks under water. Upon Manheigin Island there is a lighthouse 3G feet high, which exhibits a light revolving every minute, at 175 feet above the sea, visible 19 miles. A fog bell is placed on Mana>ia Island, about one mile westward of the light. When approaching Majil. -J jfin Light you can run close to the island on either side, taking care to go betweeii :.ome dry ledges on the northern side of it. In the island there is a small harbour, open to the S.W., which bears E.N.E. from Seguin Island. The FOX ISLANDS, as before mentioned, divide the entrance of Penobscot Bay into two parts, the eas';ern of which is named Isle-au-Haut Bay. On Browns Head, the southern head of the Pox Islands, there is a lighthouse 23 feet high, which shows a fixed light at 39 feet above the sea, visible 12 miles. This lighthouse stands at the distance of 2 rods from the shore, and from it the following observations were taken :— Fiddler's Ledge, a reef above the water at two hours' ebb, bears from it W. \ S., distant about 3 miles : Crabtree Ledge, breaking at high water with a little sea, W. by S., about Ig mile ; and the Iimer Dog Fish Ledge, S.W., about 3 miles.* On Heron Neck, the sooth point of Green Island, the southernmost of the Fox Islands, a lighthouse has recently (1854) been erected for the purpose of guiding vessels into Carver's Harbour and Hurricane Sound. The tower is joined to the end of the keeper's dwelling, is constructed of red brick, and has its base at about 68 feet above the level of ordinary high water. The height ot the light above the ground is 24 feet, which makes a total height above the ser- of 92 feet, so that it ought to be seen at the distance of about 10 miles. The roof of the lantern is coloured black, and the light is a fixed ((lashing) red light ; it will thus be easily distinguished from other lights in its vicinity. From the building to the east end of Seal Island the bearing and distance are S. by E. f E. 13 miles ; west end of Wooden Ball Rock, S. f W., 12 miles ; Bay Ledge (3 feet at low water), S. by W. \ W., 3^ miles ; lights on the Matinicus Rock, S. by W. ^ W., 15 miles; Heron Neck Ledge, dry, S. by W. ^ of a mile; west end of Matinicus Island, S.S.W. i W., 11 miles; Hurricane or Deadman's Ledge, covered at high water, W. by S., ^ a mile ; and Saddle Back Lighthouse, E. by S., 7 miles. Between the Heron Neck Ledge and Otter Island, Brimstone Island and Saddle Back Light, the whole distance is full of sunken ledges. Carver's Harbour and Hurricane Sound. — To run into these places a stranger ought to have a pilot ; but in the event of not obtaining one, then the following instruc- tions, by Captain R. King Porter, may be followed : — " Carver's Harbour is a safe anchorage for vessels drawing 10 feet water, lying about two miles from Heron Neck. To run in, bring the light to bear N.E., and run for it. Deep water exists within a ship's length of the rocks. At half a mile from the light you will pass to the eastward of the P -dman's Ledge, (the Eastern Hurricime Ledge,) dry at low water. One-fourth of a 'le, S. by W. from the light, lie:j Heron Neck Ledge, always above water. Pass betweci the light and the ledge, (a narrow but deep channel,) and you will open Deep Cave on Green Island : keep on in an easterly direction, giving the diftercnt points of Green Island a berth of a cable's length. When up with the S.E. point, you will be nenr a dry ledge ^ of a mile from the point — leave it on the starboard hand : Carver's Harbour will then be in sight, and iniiy be known by the houses around the harbour, bearing N.E. by N., distant one mile, (live the east point of Green Island opposite the first house, a snnill berth, and run for the harbour, leaving some dry ledges on the starboard hand. Keep nearest the star- kiard shore, at the entrance of the harbour, to avoid some sunken lecfges on the opposite side. Anchor in the middle of the harbour in 10 feet at low v ' • , soft bottom, good holding-ground, and ^ood anchorage. ILurrivanc {:>ouud is formed by Green Island, on which the lighthouse stands, on Iho east, and a range of islands and ledges on the west side, and is a sale roadstead lor any class of vessels. To run in, bring Heron Ncek Light to bear N.E., and run for it; when half a mile from the light you will pass Deadnum's Ledge, which leave on your port hand, and when midway between the ledge and the light you will bo in tho entiance to J[urricano Sound, which runs in in a northerly direction. ;f : I U-..11 • FlddkrV I.cdtfo bears ftom Crnbtrcc Toint W.S.W., about ^ a milo ; Crabtrco Ledgo from tho Kauu' \w\\\i H.w. by s., iiboiit J a luiltt) niul lliti luncr Dog riuU Lcilgo bcara b.y.E. frcm the i^ttX)' treuLvdiju, ilUtuut nbuut Iji milv. f1 62 PENOBSCOT BAT. I:- ^!|- J.in Keep midway between Green's Island on the east, and the islands and ledges on the west side, and when about 1^ mile above the entrance you will be near a dry rock : pass to the eastward of it, and anchor when you have room to give the rock a good berth. There is anchorage all the way up the sound, but the water is deep until you get above the rock." On the western side of the western channel into Penobscot Bay, (the channel formed by the Fox Islands and the western shore,) is Otvl's Head, on which is a lighthouse 19 feet high, showing a fixed light at 100 feet above the sea, visible 16 miles. Thence in sailing up to Penobscot River, you pass by Camden on the west, and Cape Rosier on the east. Immediately round Owl's Head is a small cove, to sail into which bring a ix)cky point lying on your starboard hand to bear N.E., and a ledge of rocks without that point to bear E.N.E., and anchor in 4 fathoms. You will lie open to the wind at E. by N. and E.N.E., but with all other winds you are safe. The tide of flood here sets to the eastward, and the tide of ebb S.W. through the Muscle Ridges. The eastern channel into Penobscot Bay is very intricate. It lies between Isle-au« Haut on the west, and the smaller islands on the east, through the channel named Long Reach, which is formed by the shore of Sedgwick on one side, and Deer Island on the other, until it unites with the main channel, between Cape Rosier and Isleborough, or Long Island. Above this, on the east, stands Fort Castine. Lights. — Besides the lights already described, the following are exhibited in Pen- obscot Bay :— A fixed light, visible 12 miles, on Marls Island, on the west side of Deer Island. The building is coloured white, and 12 feet high. A fixed light at 106 feet above the sea on Maglt Island, in Isle-au-Haut Bay, which can be seen about 16 miles. The building is coloured white and 30 feet high. A fixed light visible 9 miles, on Pumpkin Island, as a guide to Buck Harbour. A fixed light on Dices Head, near Castine, at 130 feet above the sea, visible about 17 miles. A fixed light on Old Fort Point, above Castine, at 103 feet above the sea, visible 16 miles. This is intended to mark the entrance to Penobscot River. A fixed light on Grindel Point, at the entrance of Gilkey Harbour, Long Island, at 39 feet above the sea, visible about 11 miles. This light is attached to the keeper's dwelling, which is coloured red. A fixed light on Negro Island, r.t the south side of the entrance to Camden Harbour. This light is 52 feet above the sea, and can be seen 12 miles off. A fixed light on Whitehead Island, jjust outside the^^bay, on the west side of the en- trance. The I uilding is 34 feet high, of grey colour, and shows the light at 70 feet above the sea, visible 15 miles. Attached to this lighthouse is a bell, weighing 1600 lbs., which strikes in foggy weather three times a minute. The light is small but of great importance, as all vessels bound to Penobscot Bay, going in-shore, are oblio-ed to pass by the light through the Muscle Ledges. A stranger wishing to pass this light must, if coming from the westward, run in lor the land east of Manheigin, until the light bears S.W. ; then steer N.E.,and you can pass within half a cable's length of the head. DIRECTIONS. — Penobscot Bay is we believe being surveyed, but as no charts of it have been published, and as there may be many dangers scattered about, of which we have no knowledge, we cannot do better than recommend strangers always to take a pilot when bound into it. In the event of not being able to get one, the following re- marks may be of service. By proceeding from.Mount Desert Rock on a W.N.W. course, you leave the Isle-au- Haut and Fox islands on the starboard, the Seal Rock, Matinicus Isles, and Green Island, on the port side, and thus arrive olfUu' Muscle Ledge Islands, which lie to the north-eastward of Whitehead Lighthouse, ov, the western side of the bay. Tlie fairway course to Owl's Head is N.W. Ly N. Havhig advancccf to this point, you niiiy liear away for either side of Isleborough or Long Island; proceeding past BeHasf 15iiy and Brigadier Island, keeping the \mi shore on board. When you pass lirigadier Island for Old Fort Point, (Fort Pownall,) observe, before you come to it, that an extensive ledge of rocks lies about three-quarters of n mile to the E.S.I*], of it, whieii irt uncovered at haU-tide. These roeks are readily jwrceivcd, when the wind blows, by the breukera. You nuiy puss within a cable's length of Fort Point in smooth water. If bound up the River, from Old Fort Point, with the wind ahead, and an ebb tido, PENOBSCOT BAT. you may make a good harbour in the East River, at about a league E.N.E. from that point. The entrance of this river is on the south side of Orphan Island ; here you may lie safe from all winds, and anchor in 8 or 7 fathoms, good holding-ground. You leave Orphan Island and several rocks, which are above water, on the port hand. If requisite, you may anchor to the N.W. of the island, on the starboard hand, before you pass through ; but, with the wind and tide favourable, you may proceed up to Marsh Bay, keeping towards the port shore. Marsh Bay is about 1| leagues above Orphan Island. When passing the bay, keep nearly in the middle of the river, and you will have neither rocks nor shoals until you arrive at the falls. To sail up to Castine, ^c, hy the S.M. and eastern side of IslehorougJi or Long Island, bring the light on Dice's Head to bear N.E. by N. and run for it, until you are within half a mile of it ; then steer E. by N. for the beacon on Hornaar's Lodge, leaving Otter Rock beacon on your port hand a cable length's distant, and Bull's Head, Noddle's Point, and the beacon on Hormar's Ledge on the starboard hand. You may approach tlie starboard shore off the entrance of Castine Harbour to about a cable's length, and steer E.N.E. , which will carry you up the Ship Channel. You may anchor off the town, near the wharves, in from 8 to 10 fathoms water. The har- bour is easy of access, and the tide rises, F. and C, 10 or 11 feet : it is high water at lOh. 45m. To enter Penobscot Bay from the S. W. — In coming in from the south-westward, and being near Whitehead, with its fixed light, be careful not to haul in for it until it bears N.E„ as you will thus avoid the ledges of rocks, lying nearly W.N.W., one mile, from Whitehead. Within these ledges, at about a pistol-shot from shore, there a safe passage. In passing the head, to the eastward, you will see a good harbour IS on the port hand, named Seal Harbour, wherein you may lie safely, with any wind. In going in, give the port shore a berth, to avoid a sunken ledge extending about two-thirds oveV the mouth of the harbour, which breaks with any sea, except at high water. Vessels of 60 or 70 tons may double close around the head of the light, and anchor right abreast of the store in the harbour. Those taken with calm and ebb-tide may anchor anywhere off the light in from 12 to 20 fathoms. If the wind takes you at N.E. and ebb-tide, so that you cannot get into Seal Harbour, you may run into Tennant Hai'bour, which bears W. by S. from Whitehead, about 4 miles distant. To gain this place, continue a W; by S. course until the first house on the starboard hand bears N.N.W., when you may anchor in 4 oi 5 fathoms, good ground. In sailing from Ten- nant Harbour, you may steer E. by N., one league, towards White Island Lighthouse : but bo careful not to haul in for it until it bears N.E., as a large ledge of rocks bears about W.N. W. from the head to the distance of a mile. Camden Harboub. — The North-east Ledges bear from the light on Negro Island, at the mouth of Camden Harbour, N.E. -J N., distant about three-eighths of a mile. North-east Ledges to Morse's Point, N. by W., distant about half a mile : these ledges arc covered at high water, but are above the surface of the water at two hours' ebb. Barit's Point forms the western side of Camden Harbour, and bears from the light O"" "-"■" ••"••• »^.....».^ j^' 12 niilos. From the Graves to the Owl's Head Light, S. by W., k W., distant about 10 miles. In coming from the westward, and bound to Camden Harbour, brmg Owl's Head Li<,'lit to bear South, and steer N. \ E., for Camden Light, leaving the Graves and North-east Rocks on the starboard hand : the Graves is a small black rock, and \n above tiio surface of the water at all times, and you may approach it within u oablo'a length on all sides. When up with the lighthouse, leave it ou the port hand one cable's len-th, and steer N.W. by N. .j N., or N.N.W., distant nearly half a mile, and anchor near the north shore, in IVom 4 to 5 lathoms water, good holding- ground. If you aro to the eastward, and bound for C:vmden Harbour, bring the light to boar W.S.W., or S.W. by W., to clear the North-east Ledges. SROAB BAV.-Immediately to the westward of Penobscot Bay is Broad Bay. tho navigation of which is too intritato for any di'scription to ho of service. At the entrance are many islands and sunken ledges, so that none b\it tlioso well acqiininted onglit to attempt "to run in. Ou tho north eud of Franklin hlund, ouo of the ishmds at tho en- , ' n It, \\ 64 BROAD BAY. i |J I 1 1 1* trance of the bay, is a lighthouse 35 feet high, which exhibits a fixed light flashing every 1' 30" at 54 feet^ above the sea, visible 12 miles ; from this light the entrance of George's River bears E.N.E., distant 3 miles. The western point of Broad Bay is named Penmaquid Point. On it there is a light- house showing a fixed light at 75 feet above the sea, visible 14 miles, which is very useful to those frequenting Bristol and Waldoborough Rivers. From this light Manheigin Light bears S.E. ^ E., distant 12 miles. Thex'e is also a lighthouse on Marshall's Point eastward of Franklin Island ; it is 24 feet high, and shows a fixed light at 31 feet above the sea, visible 10 miles. And a light revolving every minute is also shown on the north-east side of the south island at Tennant Harbour; the building is coloured white, 26 feet high, and the light can be seen about 13 miles ofi". George River. — This river is situated in the eastern part of Broad Bay, and requires the assistance of a pilot to enter. In sailing into it bring the North Damiscove, or White Island, to bear W.S.W., then steer E.N.E. for Franklin Island Light, which stands at the entrance ; leave that on the starboard side, and you may sail past within a cable's length of it. When abreast of Franklin Island Light, (which is on your star- board hand,) steer N.E. for Otter Island, distant 4 miles, and when within a quarter of a mile of it, leave it on your port hand, and steer E.N.E. for Cauldwell Island, having a high round rock, named Goose Island Rock, at its S.W. end. When you are abreast of this rock pass it at a distance of a cable's length, leaving it on your starboard side, and steer N.E. by E. and N.E. ; but you should keep Cauldwell Island best on board, on account of a sunken ledge lying in the middle of the river. In beating into George River, you ought to be particularly careful of a sunken ledge, which bears E.N.E. from Franklin Island Light, distant 2 leagues : also of another ledge lying off" the S.E. end c. Gay's Island, which extends one-third of the way across towards the Goose Rock. Should you fall in with Manheigin Island in steering for George River, you should steer N.N.W., leaving Manheigin Island to the starboard, until Franklin Island Light bears N.E. by E., when you may run for it, and sail as above directed. Franklin Island Light may safely be run for, when bearing from N.E. by N. to E.N.E. In running from White Islands for George River, be careful to avoid New Harbour Ledges, which lie E.N.E., distant 3 miles, from Penmaquid Light, and have only 5 feet water over them ; and when beyond these, you will see the Western Egg Rock,which bears E.N.E. from Penmaquid Point, W.S.W., distant 2 leagues, and W. by S. from Franklin Island Light, distant 1 league, which leave on your port hand ; you will then discover the Eastern Egg Rock, lying nearly South from Franklin Island Light, distant 3 miles, which must be left to the starboard. The Egg Rocks bear from each other E.S.E. and W.N.W., distant 1 league ; their appearance is very similar, but you will pass between both, and have an excellent clear and open channel. You may distinguish one from the other by their bearings from the light. Should the wind be ahead, and you be coin- pelled to turn to windward, stand on to the northward until Franklin Island Light couies E.N.E., and to the south-eastward until it bears N.N.E., without any danger. To the northward of the range of M'Cobb's Island, and the Western Egg Rock, the ground is foul and rocky ; and so it is to the eastward of the range of Franklin Island Light and the Eastern Egg Rock. M'Cobb's Island forms the western entrance to George River, and bears N.W. distant l\ miles from Franklin Island Light. JOHN'S BAY HARBOUR.— The western side of the entrance of John's Buy Harbour is formed by Thrum Cap Island, which is a small bare island bearing from Penmiiquid Point W.S.W., distant about 'Z\ miles. Penmaquid Point forms the eastern side of the bay, and is a low bare point ; but the shores are bold on all sides. The lighthouse is situated on the south-east side of Penmaquid Point, and bears from the western point of the bay E.N.E., about half a mile. Vessels westerly bound, and falling in with Manheigin Island, and wishing to malco a harbour in a strong c?.W. wind, must observe the following directions: — Bring Manheigin Light to bear S.E., and steer N.W., distant about 11 miles, for Penmn(iuid Point; and when the light on the said point bears E.N.E., distant half a mile, you are then up with the western point of Penmaquid : leave it on your starboard hand, and give it a berth of one-eighth of a mile, then steer North for John's Bay Harbour, leaving John's Island,* M'Cowu's Point, on your starboard hand, and Butford's • John's lelnudig small but high, covered with ipruce-trecB, and situated new vhc centre of the bay. TOWNSEND HARBOUE. 65 Islancl, Stuart*d Island, and M'Farling's Point on the port hand. If j'ou are from the westward, and bound into this harbour, you bring John's Island to bear N. b^'- E., and run until you are within one cable's length of it : then steer North for High IsUuid Head, which you leave on your port hand, and when abreast of said head, steer N. ^ E., about three-eighths of a mile, and anchor in from 4 to 5 fathoms water, good holding- ground. John's Bay Harbour lies about 5 miles to the eastward of Townseud Harbour, and is a fair open bay, having no rocks or shoals at its entrance, and vessels may run in without fear, by following the preceding directions. BOOTH BAY, or Townsend Haeboub, is the inlet next eastward of Sheepscot River, and may be known by the lighthouse on Burnt Island, with its fixed light. Its entrance lies between Cuckold Islet on one side, and the Bantam Ledges with Damis- cove Isle on the other, the distance between which is 2| miles. With Burnt Island N. by E. you may run in without danger; and thence, with assistance, proceed to the harbour of Townsend. In coming from the westwai'd, leave Seguin Island on your port hand, giving it a berth of about half a mile ; then steer N.E. by E., three leagues, when you will, if clear weather, open Townsend Light, on Burnt Island, bearing about N.N.E. : but still continue your N.E. by E. course until Burnt Island bears N. by E., then stand for it, continuing N. b^' E., and leaving it on the starboard (?) hand till up the harbour. At about three quarters of a mile, N.N.E. , from the light there is a small bold island, named Mouse Island, which you leave on your starboard hand : after passiijg it you haul up N.E. for the Esistern Harbour, or continue your course N. by E. till you get the Westeru Harbour to bear W.N.W,, when you may run in until Burnt Island is shut in by the land ; or, you may anchor anywhere within Mouse Island, as neither roclcs nor shoals lie off from the land. In coming for Townsend, from the eastward, bring Manheigin Light to joar E.S.E., and steer W.N.VV. about 13 miles; which course and distance wui lead you into the passage between, and to the northward of, the outer island and the main. In steer- ing thus you will make Burnt Island light bearing about N. VV. by W. ; and then steer W. by N. until you get that light to bear N.\V. Then haul up lor it, keeping it on your port bow until up with it. You now steer N. by E., and follow the direc- tions given above. SHEEPSCOT RIVER.— If bound to Sheepscot River, from the westward, and you make the Island of Seguin, (upon which a lighthouse is erected, having a brilliant fixed light at 180 feet above the level of the sea, visible 20 miles,) you will leave the light on the starboard side, giving it a berth of hall' a mile ; and when you |xiss it to the eastward, you must bring it to bear S.W. by S. and steer N.E. and N.E. by N., 3 leagues, which will bring you to Ebenicook Harbour, on the eastern side of the river, which is fronted by several islets. The entrance of this place is narrow, but it nuikes like a basin when you get into it. The entrance in lies E. byN. You cannot get in here with a N.E. or easterly wind, but must have the wind South or westerly. After you get into the harbour, you must haul up N.E. or N.E. by N., as there are several sunken rocks on the starboard hand as you go in. There is anchorage in •! fathoms, muddy bottom, safe from all winds. But, if bound up Sheepscot River, in a large vessel coming from the westward, you must go to the southward of Seguin Island, steering about N.E. or N.E. by E., one league ; and when the river bears North, or North a little westerly, you may run North, and keep the starboard hand best ou board. There are many rocks and ledges, some above and some under water, lying to the north-eastward ot' Seguin ; when you get up as high as Ebenicook, leave the two Mark Islands on your port hand, keeping your course North, a little easterly. Here it is requisite to have a pilot. A brilliant light revolving every 30" at 40 feet above the sea, and visible 12 miles, is shown from Hendrick's Head, at the mouth of Sheepscot River, on the starboard haiul going in. KENNEBEC RIVER.— Pond Island Lighthouse (situated on Pond Island to the northward of the Seguin Light, and which bears a llxed light at 51 feet above the level of the sea), bears N. i W., 2^ miles, from Seguin Lighthouse. These lights are int(>nded to facilitate the entrance to Kennebec River, which is one of the most oonsi- di'iable in the state of Maine, but its channel is too intricate to be navigated without the assistance of a pilot. The following instructions have been given for entering this river: — "If cominjj into Kenueboc River iVum the westward, keep about u nuartor of a mile iVoia 6Q SEaUIN AND POND ISLANDS. Seguin Light; in doing wliieh you will avoid Jack-knife Ledge, which bears from SeguMi Light N.W., distant 1:^ miles, and Ellingwood's Rock, lying North, one-quarter of a mile, from Seguin. Alter passing Ellingwood's Rock, bring Seguin Light to bear South, and steer North for Pond Island Light. Leaving Pond Island a cable's length on the port hand, care should be taken on the flood tide to haul quickly round Pond Island Point, to avoid the Sugar Loaves, (two small islands bearing North, half a mile, from Pond Island,) upon which the tide sets very strongly. The course after passing Pond Island is about N.W. to the fort on Hunnewell's Point, (to which you will give a berth of a cable's length,) and steer North, one mile, for Coxe's Head, on which also is a fort. The course is then N.E. to Perkin's Island, which you will leave on the starboard hand, about a mile, and you will give it a berth of a cable's length, to avoid two sunken ledges lying nearly abreast of Perkin's Island, and near the middle of the river; then steering about North, one mile, you will have fine anchorage at Perkin's Plats, in 4, 5, and 6 fathoms. This is as far as a vessel, conducted by a stranger to the place, should ever venture to advance, especially with a heavy ship. There is good anchorage anywhere between Seguin and Pond Islands, when the weather is moderate, in from 5 to 8 i'athoms, within half a mile of Pond Island : but should the wind blow with any violence, and you are far enough to windward to weather Ellingwood's Rock and Seguin Ledges, then it will sometimes be advisable to run for Townsend Harbour : or, with the wind at N.VV. and a flood-tide, you may, by fetching within a cable's length of the Lower Sugar Loaf, and leaving it on the port side, run into good and safe anchorage, in from 6 to 3 fathoms, in Heald's Eddy. If bound into Kennebec, and falling to the eastward of Seguin, bring the light on Pond Island to boar N.W. by W., and run for it until within a cable's length, then follow the preceding directions. There is safe anchorage, with an oflP-shore wind, anywhere between Small Point and Seguin, only taking care to avoid Jack-knife Ledge. Safe anchorage may be found from Coxe's Head to Perkin's Island, nearest the eastern shore. The usual rapidity of the tide between Seguin and the entrance to the Kennebec is 3 to 4 knots. There is also a passage into the Kennebec River, leaving Pond Island on the starboard hand; but that is not recommended, for only 16 feet can be obtained at high water." Eastward of Seguin there is deep water. At the westward, the tide of flood sets strongly into New Meadows, and W.N.W. into Broad Sound, and up to Portland ; the ebb-tide is the reverse. Between Seguin and Cape Elizabeth the soundings are various ; at times there are 18 or 20 fathoms, rocky bottom, and within a cable's length you will find 30 or 35 fathoms, muddy bottom. The whole of this district is now being surveyed. There are several rocky ledges near Seguin, which bear from the light as follows : — Five-Fathom Ledge, S. by W., three-quarters of a mile ; Ellingwood's Rock, North, a quarter of a mile; Seguin Ledges, N.N.E., distant half a mile, which always dry ; Jack-knife Ledge, N.W., 1| milet', over which are 8 feet water, Wood Island Reef, N.N.W., distant 1 J- miles, which has 4 feet water on it : and the Whale's Rock,N.N.E., distant If miles. NEW MEADOWS RIVER.— At about 6 leagues, E.N.E., from Cape Elizabeth, and 2 miles westward of Small Point, is the mouth of the Meadows River, a large inlet all'oiding good shelter during adverse winds. If you should happen to fall in with this inlet with the wind at S.E. or S.S.E., and bound to the eastward, you will find good shelt(!r in the above river. In standing to the northward, you will have a large round island on your starboard hand covered with spruce-trees, together with two large rocks, one named the Brown Cow and the other the White Bull, which are some distance liom each other. Wlien sailing in, you must leave the Brown Cow on your starboard, and the White Bull on your port hand, and may approach to the latter within a cable's length, and when vou have passed it, should steer tor Horse Island, lying to the starboard, which has a house upon it, and to which you may approach within a quarter of a mile. To the westward of the island there is a large rock, which is covered at high water, but is h-iie at half-tide; you may go on either side of it when it is in sight, but the widest passage is to the eastward. When you have passed this rock, steer N. by W. or N.N. W., which course will carry you up to a large island, named Bear Island, which is covered wiili spruce and biich-treos. When you have passed this island about a quarter of a HUSSEY SOUNt), &o. et mile, you may haul in for the starboard shore, and anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms water. This is the best place for anchoring with the wind S.S.E. or East; but it is necessary to be careful of a ledge of rocks running to the northward of this island, about half a mile off. You may anchor in this bay according to the direction of the wind ; if it should be to the eastward, anchor on the east side. If you have lost your anchors and cables, there is a large cove on your starboard hand, about 2 miles from Bear Island, bearing about North, which is sufficient to hold 30 or 40 vessels; it is land-locked all round, so that no wind can damage a vessel after she gets into it. HUSSEY SOUND. — If from the eastward, and you make Seguin Light, bring it to bear East, and steer West for the Sound, if you have daylight and a leading-wind, as you have nothing but islands on your starboard hand, between which the tide of flood sets strongly ; when you get within 2 miles of the Sound, you will make two islands, without trees, named Green Islands. Continue your course till Hussey's Scund bears N.N.E., then steer in. When past the two islands, after entering the Sound, leave three islands on your port, and two islands on your starboard side ; the northern island on your starboard is called Smith's Island ; when you have passed it about three- quarters of a mile, you may haul away E.N.E. till you shut in the said island to the S.E., then anchor, in 8 or 9 fathoms, muddy bottom, with Hog's Island to the S.W., Basket Island to the N.W., Great Gabegue Island to the N.E., and Smith's Island to the S.E. In this harbour 200 sail of vessels may ride safely from all winds : and when wind and tide serve, may be out to sea again in an hour. The Half-way Rock is high and black, about 600 feet in diameter, and elevated about 10 feet above the level of the sea. At the distance of 600 feet from the rock, on the N.W.jNovth, N.E., East, and S.E. sides, there are 5 and 6 fathoms, deepening gra- dually to 25 fathoms, within three-quarters of a mile. From it a reef extends W. by S., one-eighth of a mile, and has 10 fathoms within a cable's length of it. You may approach this rock on all sides within a quarter of a mile, and find from 15 to 25 fathoms. The Drunken Ledges may be seen at all times breaking with a little motion of the sea. Mark Island is small and bare, with a stone monument on it as a guide for vessels running into Broad Sound. Eagle Island is small, high, and covered with trees ; it is situate at the entrance of the said sound. Mark and Eagle Islands form the eastern side of tho entrance to Broad Sound ; and Brown Cow and Jewill's Islands the western side. Green Islands are two in number, and bear from Jewill's Head S.W., distant 1^ miles. The Bulwark, a not very extensive ledge, being barely half a mile in circumference, has 2^ fathoms on it at low water, gradually deepening to 5, 7, 8, and 12 fathoms. It bears from Portland Lighthouse, E.S.E., about 6 miles ; and from Cape Elizabeth, E. by N. nearly 6 miles. It is marked by a buoy, and the sea breaks over it during strong S.E. winds. PORTKAirD. — Portland Harbour is situated at the outfall of the River Stroud- water, and has an extent of about I5 miles, with a depth at low water of 1^ to 5 fathoms, the latter being immediately off the wharves of the city. The approach to it is through the channel formed by the islands Bang, House, Ram, Peak, Great and Little Hog (which are all more or less connected together by a shallow flat) and the mnin land, which channel is nearly hnlf a mile wide, lies in a N. by W. and S. by E. direction, and has a depth decreasing from 10 to 7 fathoms. The harbour is consequently landlocked, and affords ample and secure protection to vessels from all winds. It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at lib. 25m. : — mean rise of springs 9f feet and neaps 7^ feet. The lighthouse on Portland Head on the south side of the channel to the harbour is 49 feet high, and shows a fixed light at 81 feet above the sea, visible 14 miles ; near it is a fog beli which is struck by machinery every 30" during thick weather. There is also a small red light on the extremity of the breakwater at the south side of the harbour.* • On Fort Hill, Portland, there is an observatory, from which vessels approaching the coast can bo seen even at a distance of about 40 miles, Shipmasters requiring assistance should place their (iisi;,'u over the private signals, and if thoy are sufficiently near to be clearly seen, information of tlieir situation will be conveyed to the owners. We believe that if this building is brought in one with I'ortlaud Lighthouse, it will clear AlUen Ledge. F 2 i-' In' lif^l !'i'S' lllf.:: I : 63 PORTLAND AND CAPE ELIZABETH. Immediately in front of the approach to Portland Harbour there is a small rock 26 feet under the surface of the water, named Jordan. It has soundings close round it of 4 to 8 fathoms, and is marked by a buoy. The bearings from it are Portland Light- house, N.W. by W. I W. one mile; Ram Island N. by E. 1^ mile; and the light- houses on Cape Elizabeth S.S.W. 3^ miles. The coast southward of Portland to Cape Elizabeth, a distance of 3| miles, is rocky, and has a depth of about 6 fathoms almost immediately off it. At 2^ miles southward from Portland Lighthouse there is a slight projection of the land, from which a reef named Trundy's Ledge extends out nearly a mile in a N.E. by E. direction, and is marked at its extremity by a black buoy ; the reef near the land is awash at low water, but in other parts the soundings over it are 3 to 2 fathoms at the same periud of tide. As the lead drops from the reef at once into 5 and 6 fathoms water, great cir- cumspection is necessary when navigating in its vicinity. Besides Trundy's Reef there is a small rocky patch of 6 feet water nearly midway between it and Cape Elizabeth, which is also marked by a black buoy. When steering for Portland from the southward do not approiich Cape Elizabeth nearer than 4 miles on account of the various rocks that lie off it ; bring Portland Light to bear N.W. by N. aj^d steer with that mark on until you are -I of a mile from the lighthouse, when you should change the course to N. by W. towards the south- west end of House Island. When Fort Preblo bears S.W. by W. | W., steer N.W. ^ W. till well past the breakwater, when a W.S.W. -j W. course will lead into the harbour to the anchorage off the wharves. If instead of anchoring off the wharves the roadstead of Hog Island be preferred, steer N.E. as soon as Fort Preble bears S.W. by W. | W., and it will carry you into it. The depth here is 4 to 7 fathoms, and there is excellent shelter from all winds. CAPS XSl^ZtABETB is a bold point having two white buildings upon it, each 53 feet high, one of which shows a fixed and the other a revolving light of 1' interval. As these lights are 143 feet above the sea they can be seen in clear weather at a distance of about 17 miles. Tlve utmost care is requisite when approaching the .-cape, because some very dangerous r^efis lie off it at various distances, all of which are steep and have deep water in their jmmadiate vicinity. These reefs bear the names of Taylor, Old Anthony, Alden,* and H^e and Cry; the latter is the outermost. They are all buoyed we believe, ^nd as ^n additiooal means of keeping vessels from them a bell boat has been moored near the Alden Rock, The depth close to the rocks at the base of the cape is about 6 fathoms, and there is a passage sufficiently deep for the largest vessels between the reel's just mentioned and the laud, hnj:, this, it is alnoost needless to say, should only be attempted by those having an intimate knowledge of the locality. The shore near the lighthouses forms two coves named J)yer's and Staple's, whi^h are too open and exposed for anything larger than boats. CAPE ELIZABETH TO CAPE ANN. RZCBMOXVB XSXiANB. — Immediately westward of Cape Elizabeth is an island of about a mile in extent, named Richmond, which is connected to the shore by a ledge * I,ieut4;nant Woodhull, U.S. Navy, wlio surveyed Aldon's Reef in 1854, reports as follows : — " It lies about N.E. and S.W., and by compass tlie north liglit on Cape Elizabetli bears from it N.W. by W. 3 miU's; barn on Richmond Island West 4^ mile.*; rortlaml Light N.N.W.^ W. (i| miles; and the light on Wood Island S.W. by W. ^ W. about 14 miles. It is about 950 feet long and -.'50 feet wide. Its shoalest part is on the west side, and through its centre from north to south the water is quite deep ; which circumstance doubtless gave rise to the belief that there were two distinct rocks or ledges, which supposition, I think, is entirely disproved by my recent survey. TIk rock, as it is called, but which more properly should be considered a reef, is of immense dimensions, extremely irregular in form, having shoal projections on it from 4^ to 24 feet, at low water. I discovered but one rubble with 4j feet water on it, one with C. several with 8, and a very considerable number of shoal spots with 1 1, 1'2, 13, 14, 15, &c. feet, all estimated at low water. The reef lies immediately in the way of all navi>;ution, and particularly of vessels bound westwanl, or of those leaving the harbour at Kiclimond Island. I consider this the 'great danger' when approaching Portland Harbour, and the ' key' to the lesser ones of the Ihw ami O//, Old Anthonij, and Taylor's Hcefs. It is the cause of much anxiety and care to the navigator, "and one that is avoided with the greatest di/hciilty in thick weather, and during the prevalence of the teriible easterly storms by which tlie coast of Maine is so frequently visited." EICHMOND AND WOOD ISLANDS. 69 partly dry at low water.* From the eastern end of this island some dangerous rocks, named Watts' Ledge, extend out ^ of a mile, close to which is a depth of 3 and 5 fathoms, rendering it imprudent to approach this side of the island very closely ; a sunken ledge, called West Ledge, also runs out from the west end of the island about ^ of a mile, and it is necessary when rounding this end of the island to do so at a mo- derate distance, in order to give the ledge a good berth. On the north-west side of thtj island, in the harbour, there is a small wharf. In the bay eastward of Richmond Island, between it and Cape Elizabeth, there is a depth of 5 to 2\ fathoms on a bottom of hard sand and rock : but so many dangers are scattered about, that no prudent shipmaster would attempt to anchor here. These dan- gers are mostly under water, and bear respectively the names of Stephen's Rock, the Sisters, Seals, Dancing Breaker, and Crowell's Rock. The harbour on the west side of the island is safe to ride in with winds from any )oint between North and S.W,, and is convenient when vessels are unable to get to Port- and, as it is easily entered. The depth is from 8 to 2^ fathoms, and the anchorage )eing of clay, with a crust of coarse sand from 6 inches to a foot in thickness, is very good for holding. On the north side of the harbour there is a small island, named Ram, having near it some rocks called the Brothers, and also a rock named the Chimney; the latter is visible at half tide. At nearly 2 miles W. f N. from the west end of the island is a rock also dry at half tide, named Old Proprietor ; and at the back of the harbour is the outlet of the small river Spurwink. To enter the harbour, stand in by the western extremity of the island about N. ^ W., being careful to give it a good berth on account of the West Ledge, a rock under water lying about -^ of a mile from the point : this rock is very dangerous, as it has a depth of 5 and 6| fathoms close to it. When the western light on Cape Elizabeth is well open, then haul up until the wharf bears East, when j'ou may anchor in the best anchorage for vessels of heavy draught. Vessels of lighter draught may stand in until the wharf bears S. by E. When beating in, the only precaution necessary is to look out for the Old Proprietor and the Chimney Rocks, for if you struck on them the vessel might suffer serious damage. When approaching the harbour from the eastward, give the island a berth of ^ to ^ a mile, until its western extremity bears N.E. by N., then haul up N. ^ W., and proceed as before. It is high water here on the days of full and change at lib. 30m. The mean rise at spring tides is 11 feet, and at neap tides 7^ feet. The set of the tidal current does not exceed f of a mile per hour, and its direction in the harbour as well as outside is much influenced by the wind. WOOD ZSabAirs. — From Cape Elizabeth to Wood Island, on the south side of Saco Bay, the course and distance are about S.W. | S. 8 miles ; and thence to Cape Porpoise S.W. 9 miles. VVood Island is high and woody, and has on its eastern side, near the entrance of the Saco River, a lighthouse 47 feet high, which exhibits a red light revolving every minute at 62 feet above the sea, visible about 13 miles. The harbours formed by Wood Island should , ioa: Island, fet the entrance to the harbour of the Cape, there is a lighthouse 25 feet high, which shows a small fixed light at 38 feet above the level of the sea, visible about 10 miles. Cape Porpoise Harbour affords shelter to small coasting vessels, and is principally used by them, as at low water vessels drawing 10 feet lie aground. Strangers ought to take a pilot, the harbour not having been surveyed, and it would be imprudent to attempt to rim in without. lu the event of not obtaining one, the following remarks may be useful :-r- If you are from the eastward, and make Wood Island Light, when bound to Cape Porpoise Harbour, bring that light to bear N.E. by N., and run S.W. until Cape Por- poise Light bears N. by W. ; then steer directly for this light until you shut in Wood Island by the eastern head of Cape Porpoise Harbour, when you will be abreast of a ledge, upon which the sea breaks when the wind is at all high, named the Old Prince, lying \ a mile, S.E. by S., from Cape Porpoise Light. Now steer N.N.W. until Cape Porpoise Light bears E.N.E., when you will be up with the entrance of the harbour. If it should be low water, you must keep midway between the two points, but with high water keep the port shore best aboard. From between the two points steer N.W. •J of a mile, and then anchor in 3 fathoms, at low water. By following these direc- tions you will find from 3 to 6 fathoms water. The harbour is not safe except with a fair wind. Opposite to the lighthouse is Folly Island, which forms the western side of the harbour. The S.S.E. point of Folly Island bears from the light S. ^ W., about 1\ mile, and a shoal projects from it to nearly a mile. A spar buoy, painted red, and elevated 9 feet above the water, is or was moored in 8 lathoms, at low water, near the Old Prince, with Cape Porpoise Lighthouse, bearing N.N.W., distant about | of a mile ; the Old Prince being distant from the buoy about ^ of a mile on a N.N.E. bearing. When running for Cape Porpoise Harbour you may go on either side of the buoy, by keeping it close on board, and after passing it, bring it to bear S.E. by S., and steer N.W. by N. for the entrance of the harbour. The above directions given for entering can then be followed (1836). XESrxrSBXnrx lies south-westward from Cape Porpoise, and vessels bound to it must have the assistance of a pilot. At the mouth of the harbour are two piers (one on the northern and the other on the southern side of the channel) running from the shore about 3 to 400 feet towards the bar, and extending a little beyond low-water mark, with a flagstaff and beacon on the top, which may be seen about one mile distant. Due south from the head of the piers, at the distance of f of a mile, is a rocky ledge named the Fishing Rocks, which is covered at high water : between this and the head of the piers is the anchoring ground. You should keep well to the eastward of this ledge when approaching, although a tolerable passage lies westward of them, but it should only be navigated by those acquainted. On the bar are only 2 or 3 feet at low water; but there is a rise and fall of common tides of from 8 to 9 feet, increasing some- times to 10 and 12 on full and change. The Fishing liocks extend E.N.E. and W.N.W., and are partly dry at 2 hours' ebb, so that the sea breaks upon them with the least swell, or when there is a little wind. Near the rocks is, or was, a red spar buoy, in 4 fathoms at low water, and elevated 10 feet above the surface of the sea, and on the shoal a spindle is also erected, with a cask at the top; this latter bears from the spar buoy S.W. by W. \ W., distant \ of a mile. The spindle lies with Flying Point bearing E. by N., | of a mile; Fox Point N.E., I of a mile ; Boothby Point N. by W., about | of a mile; and Harding's Rock W.N.W., about f of a mile. Kennebunk is frequented principally by vessels in cases of distress. The course and distance from Cape Porpoise to Cape Neddick are nearly S.W., 12^ miles : between lies Wells Bay, and immediately northward of Cape Neddick is the Cape Harbour, which is very small.* * The "Wliite Hills are an important landmark for this part of the coast, aa they may be seen many leagues off at sea, like a bright cloud above the horizon, and when no other land is in sight. Their position is about N.W. from Portland, and N.N.W. from Wood Island. Thejr have been seen TOEK LEDGE, &c. n it i of a BOOST ISXiAXUB, &o. — When raalcintj the land between Cape Porpoise and Ports- mouth, more than orduiury care is requisite, because some i.slets and .houis lie oU' it at various distances, and particularly in the vicinity of Portsmouth. Upon account of these, strangers are recommended not to go northward of" hit. 43^ when the weather is thick, neglect of this simple precaution having proved fatal to many shipmasters. The northernmost of these islets is Boon Island, which is low and of but small extent, being only about } of a mile long ; it is situate in lat. 43° 7' 16", aiid long. 70^ 28' 15", and is consequently Sf miles S.E. ^ E. from Cape Neddick. For the purpose of aiding shipmasters to avoid the various dangers in its neighbourhood, a lighthouse 123 feet high has been erected on its western part, which shows a fixed light at 133 feet above the sea, visible 17 miles. This light is 46 miles from Seguin Light, and 30 miles from the two lighthouses on Cape Ann. It has been stated that there is a ledge of rocks at about a mile northward from Boon Island, which renders a close approach to that side of the island dangerous ; this may or may not be the case, but there is certainly a sunken rock at about f of a mile from it, in a W.S.W. direction, so that shipmasters will be prudent in giving the island a wide berth on that side. This rock is named Pollock, has but 17 feet water upon it at low tide, and we believe has deep soundings at a short distance from it. At about 3 miles E. ^ S. from the lighthouse there is a sunken rock, which, its position being so much seaward from the island, is extremely dangerous ; it has there- lore been marked by a bell-boat. The soundings around this reef are very deep, a cast ol' 52 fathoms having been obtained at a mile eastward from it, and 26 fathoms at the same distance from it northward. At about midway between it and Boon Island there is a rocky patch of 4^ fathoms. It has been asserted that in the vicinity of Boon Island a current is frequently found setting to the south-westward, but further observations are required to establish the fact. York Ledge. — At nearly midway betveen Boon Island and Portsmouth Harbour there is a rocky shoal named York Ledge, part of which bt'comes dry at three-quarters tide. Upon it a beacon has been erected, so that if ordinary precaution be exercised a vessel will have but little difficulty in avoiding it. As a sunken ledge of 4 to 6 feet water extends from the beacon about f of a mile in a north-easterly direction, ship- mast(!rs must give it a wide berth on that side, approaching it only with great care, and especially as there is a depth of 7 2 fathoms close to its extrenjity. Between this sunken ledge and Pollock Rock near Boon Island, the soundings appear toaverage 15 to 13 fathoms. There is also a sunken rock immediately off the west side of the beacon. At If miles S.VV. | S. from the beacon on York Ledge, and E. 1° S. 4 miles from the lighthouse on Whale's Back Ledge, Portsmouth, there is a sunken rock of 6 feet water, named Murray's Rock.* The depth close to it is 4j fathoms. There is also a rock 12 feet under the surface, at | of a mile eastward of this rock. XSI^ES or SBOAXiS. — Besides Boon Island and York Ledge there is a remark- able cluster of rocky islets lying off the shore between Cape Porpoise and Cape Ann, at about 6 miles south-eastward from Portsmouth Harbour. In tlie course of the survey of this part of the coast the group has been examined, but the result of this explora- tion has not yet been made public. The following description we have derived from various sources, but it is necessarily imperfect in some of its details. The Isles of Shoals may be seen in clear weather from a considerable distance, and the various objects upon them, the lighthouse, meeting-house, &c., aid considerably in re- cognizing them. If bound to Newbury or Portsmouth give the islets a large berth by gonig t\illy 3 miles southward of them, because that at about 2 miles from them there is a dangerous rock, named Innes, which dries at or a little before low water; the position of this rock is said to be about 2 miles S.W. by S. from Star Island. in latitude 43° lO', at 46 miles from Cape Elizabeth, where there are 80 fathoms of water, muddy ground. If, from this spot, a VV.N.W. course be steered, the Agaraenticus Hills will soon come into view ; tliese, wheu bearing W. by N., 6 or 7 leagues, appear to be three iu number, the smalk'.-^D king to the eastward ; at the same time will be seen Wells, or Bonabeg Hills, bearing W.N. W. From t'lie northern part of Jeffery's Bank, in 45 fathoms, the hills of Agamenticus bear W. by N. to W.N.W. * Lieutenant Murray, U.S. Navy, who discovered this rock through his vessel striking upon it while surveying in 1868, says that " it may be cleared, after doubling tlje bell-buoy otf Boon Island, by keeping the Whale's Back open northward at least two points, until the monument on York Ledge is passed. The depth within a ship's length of the rock i» 7 to 11 fathoms." We believe that it has been buoyed. It, 1i'* ?r "72 in 'k i 1 ' {:■ i '; THE ISLES OF SHOALS. WJiite Island, tlie soutli-westevnmost of the Isles of Shoals. \» a rocky island three- quarters of a mile in lenjjth from S.E. to N.W. Upon it there is a lighthouse 40 feet hij,'h, whifli shows a lifjlit revolvinf^ every half minute at 87 feet above the sea, visible 15 miles ; its position is lat. 42° 58' and "long. 70° 37' 4". From its north-west end a reef extends out about one-third of a mile. Lo}i(fo]ier's Island lies about 1^ mile northward of White Island. It is about five-eiyhths of a mile- in length, and high at each end; but, at high tides, the middle is sometimes covered. The island is surrounded with rocks, some of which are always above water. The south end bears West from the meeting-house, and the north end about W.N.W. I W. from the same object. Star Island, distinguished by its meeting-house, is about f of a mile in length from S.E. to N.W., and about | a mile in breadth ; its north end is covered with buildings. Tlie meeting-house stands on an eminen.ce, a little northward of the middle of the island, fronting the west; the roof of this building is only 12 feet high, but thence to tlie top of the steeple, which stands in the middle of it, i.s 30 feet more : and the whole height, from the surface of the water, is about 65 feet. Being painted v>rhite, it may be seen from a distance of 8 or 9 leagues. 0(1' the south end of this island, at about thx'ee-quarters of a mile from shore, lies a rock named Anderson's Eock, which is uncovered at hall-tide, and should, therefore, have a good berth when passing. From the meeting-house it bears about S.S.E. There is also a rock between Star Island and Londoner's Island, bearing from the meeting- house N.W. by W. I W., distant one-third of a mile. Cedar Island lies eastward of Star Island ; it is small, being only about i of a mile from east to west. The east end bears from the meeting-house E. \ N., and the west end E.N.E. 72 E., three-eighths of a mile from the same object. At half a mile from the south-east end of the island is a rock, uncovered at hulf-tide, which bears E. by S. from the meeting-house. Smutty Nose Island is nearly a mile in length from east to west, and about half a mile in breadth. It may be known by a windmill on its north part. At its west end there is a fine harbour, named Haley's Cove, where fiiTteen or twenty small vessels may lie sal'ely in all winds. There are several buildings near this place. Between the island and Hog Island, which lies to the northward, there is a sufficient depth of water inr any vessel, by keeping nearly in mid-channel ; but there are reefs on each side. Tlio east end of Smutty Nose Island bears from the meeting-house nearly E.N.E. five- eighths of a mile. Hofi Island, a high islet northward of Smutty Nose Island, is about one mile iu length from east to west, and five-eightiis of a mile Irom north to south. The west iMid lies from the meeting-house N. by W. \ W., and the east end N.N.E., seven- eighths of a mile from the same building. Duck Island, the northernmost of the Isles of Shoals, is low and rocky. Some parts are covered at high water, and rocks jiroject from it in every direction, especially at its north-west end, where a ledge runs otF to the distance of half a mile. It is the niost (l.uig(!rous of the Islos of Shoals, and must be cautiously avoided. Its cast end bears from the meeting-house nearly N. by E. | E. Capk Neddick on the main land is a cliffy point wi'h a detached bold rock named the Nubble, close to it. Hence to York River the distance is about 2i miles, and the shore, with the exception of just under the cape, is shallow to nearly half a mile out; this Hat, however, decreases ni bntadth from the coast as you approach the north point of the river. The soundings on a supposed lino from the capo to the river average fathoms.* York Iflver is but a narrow stream, yet its outlet forms a good harbour for small xesscls, where shelter nniy be obtained against winds from the land ; it is consequently much resorted to by coasters. The depth is 3^ to 2 fathoms at low tide. Some rocks named Black and Milbury Ledges lie off the north shore, rendering great care neces- • Tn tlio IN'iiort. of tlio Coast Survi'y. jtrcwntcd to TonKn'SM, 1858, it Ih nu'iilioiied tlmt several iliin^crs liinl tiicii disrovcri'd tiy tin- Hiirvoyors wliili' cxurnininK this i.art of tlio const ; but nn tlu>y l';tv,. not liiiii inserted on flic imtiliMliod nkutcli idiart of tlio coHst. and detHilvd porticularH of tlirm I: ivo T>ot to otir knowledge hoon made put>lic. wi- can only nlludc to tlicrn. Tlipy comprloc u di'tnclied rock >; of u mllo nortliward and (■a8t\vard of York I.L'dgc; Duck Inland rA>dgc ; Hooii Mand l,.'(lj;<( ; a lisliinsr Icdjje oil" K.-nnilmnk ; a rock olf York Ulvgr, at more tlian a mile IVyiii Iho •horo, and bare at low tides j aud u rock olF (jaye Ntddick. PORTSMOUTH. V3 mile ill .'he west seven- sary wlien nininng in ; two patches of 18 and 16 feet alec lie nearly ^ mile S.S.E. ^ E. from East Point, the north point of the river. From York River to Portsmouth Harbour the distance is nearly 5 miles, along a rocky coast. When tacking, beware of the Stone Eock, 8 feet under water, situate half a mile off the shore at about 1| mile from the river. PORTSlVIO'D'TBi — Portsmouth is an excellent harbour situate at the outlet of the Piscataqua River, which .joins the sea in about lat. 43° 3', and there forms by its chan- nels a number of small islands of which those named Great and Gerrish are the most to seaward. The channel inwards has a depth of 7 to 8 and 9 fathoms, and there is excel- lent accommodation and shelter for shipping. The town is three miles from the mouth of the river, following the course of the stream. East side of Harbour. Gerrish, the easternmost of the islands forming Portsmouth Harbour, has on its eastern, southern, and south-western sides, some detached rocks, awash, or nearly so, with the surface of the water ; but none are further out than three- Juarters of a mile. These bear the names of East Sister, West Sister or Branscomb, 'hilip, Kitt, Whale's Back &c., and we believe that buoys mark their most seaward limits, so that if vessels keep outhide that distance from the island, and clear of the line of buoys, they will incur no risk of damage from them when approaching the harbour from the north-eastward.* Some small islets are also at a short distance from the tiouth-west end of the island, but are connected to it by a shallow flat. On the west end of one of these ledges, the Whale's Back, and consequentlj' on the east side of the entrance to the harbour, there is a lighthouse, 40 feet high, which shows a light flash- ing every 1^ minute at 58 feet above the sea, visible 12 miles. West side of Harbour. Great Island, on the west side of the entrance to the har- bour, is about three-quarters of a mile in extent, and has on its north shore a village named Newcastle. Its south side forms, with the main land, a snug little anchoring place for small vessels, named Little Harbour, where is a depth of 3 to 10 feet water. At the north-east end of the island is Fort Constitution, and at ^ of a mile southward ol' this there is a leJge of rocks running from the shore called Stielman Rocks, the extremity of which is marked by a buoy. Liqht. Besides the light on Whale's Back Ledge, already mentioned, there is a lighthouse (the Portsmouth Liglithouse) at Fort Constitution, which shovs a fixed light at 70 feet above the sea, visible 14 miles. The course into the harbour is N. \ E. between these lights. Gunboat Shoal. Outside the harbour, and at about a mile from the coast south of Great Island, there is !> shoal of 3,j and 4 fathoms named the Gunboat, upon which a cast may perhaps be obtained when making the port from the southward. It is not more than a quarter of a mile in extent, and has soundings of to 10 t'athonis close to it. Its position is S. \ W. 2| miles from Portsmouth Lighthouse ; S. by E. 1^ milo from Odiorne Point; and S. by W. \ W. 2] miles from Whale's Back Lighthouse. Upon it the sea breaks in rough weather. Directions. — Mlien approaching PortsmontI Harhour from the eastward of the Ides of Shoals at night, bring Portsmouth Light to bear N.W. \ W. and eo: /. .7.*, under wnter, are K. ^ S. J of a iii<:e ft-oin WJinlo'H Uack LIghthouHu j K. J N. i of a mile from Kitt Hockii ; and J of a lulle off Gerrish hlinid. n\K( St*tiMt open westward of that island. It is necessary to give the buoys on Kitt Rocks and Stielman Rocks a good berth, the former not less than 200 yards, and the latter 100 ^-ards ; and, when p; ssmg up the inner harbour, the buoys marking ledges on the port hand a berth of 30 lict. Hampton. Fiom Portsmouth to Hampton Harbour the distance is about 10 miles. This harbour is but a small place, aifordiiig very indiflerent accommodation ; we possess no description of it, and believe that it is only frequented by the smallest coasters. It is said that several sunken rocks lie off its entrance. irEWBUaYPORT. — The entrance to Newbuiyport Harbour is 6 miles southward from Hampton Harbour, and 1(5 miles from Portsmouth, and is formed by the outtall of the Merrimack liiver. The channel over the bar being of sand and influenced by the pre- vailing wind, ciianges so much that instructions for crossing it are useless ; the assis- tance of a pilot is therefore always necessary. During easterly gales it is scarcely possible to enter the river owing to the very heavy sea on the bar, and the uncertainty of the direction the channel n)ay have taken. Lujhtn. On the south side of the entriuice to the river, and on the north end of Plura Island, are two fixed lights, the more powerful of which is visible at a distance of 13 miles. The beacon light is shilted according as the changes of the channel may render necessary. When approaching Newburyport from the south-eastward, the direct course from a position two miles northward of the Salvages, off Cape Ann, is N.W. about 11 miles. As soou as you decrease the water to 12 or 11 fathoms, author unless a pilot be ready to assist you in crossing thf bar. The rivor should not be approached i)earer thai that deptli, because if a strong easterly wind commence to blow, very great difficulty would be experienced in keeping ofl shore.f l! ♦ When approaching rortsmoutli Harbour from the north-cnutwanl, Jlurray's Rock, already mentioned as being \\ mile touth-we.stward of York Ledge, must be very cautiously avoided. It it, we believe, marked by a buoy. Heit r to page 71. t 1 lie Murine .Society of Newburyport erected, some years since, at their own cxpcn«o, ■Jevral huts, at proper diHtuiues from each other and from the ^hore, and ple who visited I'lum Isluu'! ..1 .unnnuT.fiise huts weroina fewyt ars totully destroyed. The mislortunes attending this generous and humaiu' attempt in favour of tlie s^hip- wrecked mariner, deterred the Murine .Society, as well as other bodie.^ and individuals, from a liko benevolent attempt, r'.til the establishment of the 51. rrimack llinnane Socieiy in \SK>'i. t'onceiving it all \)lut(ly necessary that some relief should be allorded the uufortun ito sutierer on so desolate • spot, and in the most inclement season of the year, the .Society voted to build three huts on the isliiiid, and have canied their generous resolutions into lull elUct. Ihe exertions of this benevoKnt lu.-.titution will be, in future, to preserve tnese huls in repair, and in perfect supply of materials lor lire, and other necessaries for the support and jireservation of life. .Many, no doubt, will owe their lives to the humanity of this design, and with grnteful leelings contiil)Ute themselves lo the prescr- vsition of others. 'Ihe exjHiise and trouble will be trivial in comparison with the noble purjioscs it may answer; and the hope of its answering these purposes will bu alone a sulUoieut runiuneratiou to tlie generous projectors. I'liim the report of a (\>mmitt(e, appointed by the Society, which was published % few yetrs Hiuce, we have the following description of the huls, and directions to tliu muHner where to liml them ; — •' Ihc iiouKo for the keeper of the lightn, erected by the United States, is about 20 rods south from the lighihouseg. About k'OOO puces, or 1^ miles, south from tlii» house and the light*, ou the ln»ia« KEWBTJRTPOET. It Some years ago the following signals were in use at Newburyport, and, for aught we know to the contrary, may be so still. They were exhibited when the sea on tiie bar was too violent for pilots to cross it. " When a vessel comes into the bay, and cannot get over the bar at high water, owing to insufficiency of the tide, a red square flag will be hoisted up, with a pendant under it ; and, so soon as these signals are seen from the vessel in the bay, she must keep off, and try some other port. When the usual signals for vessels are kept up, the ship must lay off and on, without the bar, keeping to windward until signals be made for her to come in : and when it is a suitable time to come over the bar, a red square flag will be hoisted half-mast; she may then come in, keeping the lights in a range or in a line. \i\\ that would ilrcady , 11 K-, L'-works, iiiid tliu A totull/ Llie >liip- iiu n lika inceiviiiK m>lnti> ■ un tliu llt'Volcllt riald fur vvi- tlii'ir pri'scr- rjioHcit it rtttiuu to i>\v )»'ar» lu liuil utli fr"»n lu iiwiUd of the island, Is the first hut, to which tlie mariner, in daylight, may be directed by a beacon, about 300 paces to the east, witli a liand pointing to tlie Iiut. 21)00 paces, or about Ij miles, soutli from this, is tlie second hut, with a similar beacon, about 400 paces 8.E., pointing to it. 17U0 paces, or about a mile, south from this, is a third, with a beacon, bearing East, 500 paces distant. 0000 paces, or about 3 miles, south of this, is a house occupied by Mr. Sj)iller and family, which is about a mile from tlie south end of the island ; and about We.st, a mile from the south end of the island, are two otiier houses, with families. ' These huts, together with the other houses mentioned, form a chain from one extremity of the island to the other. The unfortunate mariner, whose late may wreck him on this shore, can, by noticing the point of the compass from whicli the wind blows at the time of his being wrecked, be ((overned in his course across the island, where he will lind himself under the lee of the higlur land, and protected in some measure from the violence of the tempest. Ky keeping along the margin of tlie i^laud, where the travelling is good, and before coming quite to the marsh, either north or south, ho will be certain of meeting with one of these huts or houses, where he may lind temjiorary relief. If) facilitate still further the means of conveviiig immediate assistance to those uniortiinute mariners wlio may be wrecked on this island, a number of gentlemen were incorporaied for the purpose, and liiivu completed a bridge and turnpike-road from Newburyport to I'lum Island. This road leads in ft south-easterly direction from Newburyport, and the bridge crosses riuni Island nearly about a (liiarter of a mile to the S.W. of .Seal Island. An elegant hotel has been erected at the east end of tlie bridge, within 100 rods of the sea-shore, a mile south from the lights, and about three-(iuartersof a mile northerly from the northernmost house erected by the Merrimack Humane .society before nuiitioned. The hotel is painted white, has three white chimneys, and may serve as a landmark lor seiinan. If a vessel, by stress of weather, should be obliged to run ashore on this island, and the master can make any choice of the place, it is most eligible to run on to, as nearly opposite this house aa possible, as assistance and shelter can be more promptly afforded, and the communication will bo more direct with Newburyport. It rarely happens that any life is lost on this beach, in attempting to escape from the wreck, when the crew remain on board until low tide. Unless the vessel is in imminent danger of going to pieces iniinodiately, the seamen should never take to their boat." In a course nearly north from t lie lighthouses on I'lum Island, and about half a mile distant, across the mouth of th.e Alerrimack River, is wie southern extremity of Sahshury IJeach, named J^alis- hiiry I'oiiit. From this jwint a sandy beach extends northerly on the verge of the ocean, without an inlet or interruption of any eonseijuence, until it reaches Hampton Kivtr. This beach is connected Willi the main land by a salt-marsh, of consick-rable extent, intersected by a variety of small rivulet» and creeks, which render it impossible for a shipwrecked mariner to reach the inhabited part ol SttlislMiry. Here, too, the haplejs mariner is sometimes destined to sutler the misfortunes of ship- wreck, and to reach a desolate an ' inhospitable shore, only to aggravate the horrors of his death, l.vcn if he can attain the llrst and wished-for object in escaping from the dungers of the ocean, ho tlicn lir.ds himself a solitary wanderer on the coast, without shelter or sustenance ; and, in his Iruit- li'ss sciirch for them, muft iuevitaMy perich. Although the N.K. storms are generally most fatal to vessels on this part of the coast, yet Salis- hiiry Heuch is not so frequently a place of shipwreck us I'lnm Island; but to guard against a iKMsiblliiy iif accident, which must iometimes happen to the unskilful or inexperienced navigu'or, tlic Marine »ocMy creeled a hut, similar to those of I'lum Island. Here they deposited everythin(< iiecihstiry for the relief of such as might need it, and were at the pains and expense frupiertly to Inspect it. and renew their generosity by replenishing it; but this has .shared the same fate with those on I'lum Island ; not so much, however, from the insuniciency of it» foundation, or the violence iif the winds, as from the wuntoniiess of indivi«luals and companies, who frequent this «pot, in the warm season, on parties of pleasure. The Merrimack Humane .Society have extended their bene- volent views to this part of the coast, and have erected a hut about three-quarters of h mile north liom liliick Kecks, so named, and about K>o paces from tli«' sea->hoie. I his hut will be maintained 111 commodious repair, and provided with everything suitable lor thoie who may be so unlbrtuimle aa to need its shelter. Others, on the same coast, will be erected as speedilv at the funds of the society, ami the charity of individuals, will render it powlble, and will be cou.tuiently furnished and pro- vidvU lur the tumu luuduble purpuse. ^6 IPSWICH, ANNISQUAM, «fcc. m When a pendavit is hoisted half-mast, the vessel may come in, keeping the lights a little open to the northward. When a blue burgee is hoisted half-mast the vessel may come in, keeping the lights a little open to the southward. When a vessel is seen in the bay, and does not get in before night comes on, the fol- lowing lights will be made : — For a vessel to keep off, and not to attempt to come in over the bar during the night, a lantern will be hoisted to the top of the flag-staff. When there is proper time for a vessel to come in over the bar during the night, two lanterns will be hoisted, one at the top of the flag-staff, and the other half-mast high. The vessel must then lay off and on at the bar until a light is made in the eastern light- house, at a window about 8 feet below the lantern. Tlie vessel may then come over the bar, keeping the lights in a line ; and when she gets abreast of the upper light, there is good anchorage. The signal for vessels in distress is a white square flag, with a large black ball in the centre, hoisted half-mast high." From Newburyport to Ipswich Harbour the distance is about 7 miles along the east side of Plum Island, a narrow island, which is separated from the main land by a shal- low sound. It is not more than 500 paces across, and its north end forms the south side of the entrance to the Merrimack River, wliile its south end is the north shore of the Ipawich River. Chat part ol the island bounding the sea consists almost entirely of yellow sand, perfectly smooth on the beach, but, farther from the sea, driven by the wind into hillocks, or heaps of funtastio forms, and preserved in that shape by the suc- cessive growth of grass and shrubs. On the back part of the island, where it is washed by the soand, is an extent of salt-marsh, bounding its whole length. At the southern- most end of the island there are several houses, with families, and a considerable spot of land in good cultivation, northward of which is a grove of pine-trees 1^ mile in extent. IPSIXTICH. — The mouth of the Ipswich River is fronted by a bar which frequently shifts, rendering the assistance of a pilot necessary to strangers. The navigable chan- nel is shown by buoys, and on the shore opposite the end of Plum Island there is a lighthouse, 34 feet high, which shows a light flashing every 1^ minute at 40 feet above the sea, visible 12 miles. There is also a small beacon light at about 173 yards eastward from this, which is moved as the changes of the bar render requisite, in order that the two lights in one may be the leading mark over the bar. The usual depth on the bar is 7| feet. Unless bound to Ipswich or Annlsquam, it is recommended not to get into a less depth off this part of the coast than G fathoms, as it is shallow a long way out. At about 2 miles south-eastward from the lighthouse at Ipswich, and midway between it and Annisquam, is the entrance to tlie River Essex, which is fronted by a bar, upon which the usual depth is 7 feet. AirxrzsQirAM. — Annisquam is a barred harbour, to enter which the assistance of a pilot is always necessary. The depth in the channel is seldom more than 6 feet at low tide, and we believe that buoys mark its limits. On Wigwam Point, east side of entrance, there is a white lighthouse, 35 feet high, which shows a fixed light, visible 12 miles. At about half a mile north-eastward from Wigwam Point, there is an islet (Davis's Keck) close to the coast, which forjns with the shore eastward of it a little cove calicil Ilodgkins, where is a depth of 5 to 3} fathoms. Northward of this half a mile, a ledge of rocks extends some distance t'rom the land, and has its limits marked by a buoy ; this ledge bears the name of Plum Cove Ledge, partly shows at low tide, and has close to its edge a depth of 5 fathoms. XOCXPOItT. — At nhout 3 miles north-eastward from Annisquam is Halibut Poiiit, tiie northernmost point of the promontory forming Cape Ann ; it is a boM rocky headland, having at a short distance from its base a depth of Ikthoms, which rapidly increases to 12 and 1(5 fathoms, tlu^ latter being at \ of a mile out. The coast on the east side of this point I'alls in to the southward and forms Sandy liay, a hny having an extent of about one mile, an^l at tlie head of which is the harbour of Rock- port. Over the surface of this bay is a depth, geticraliy, of 12 and 14 fathoms, and it 18 to some extent sheltered against heavy seas from the south-east-a-ard and eastward by Straitsmouth Island, Avery's Ledge, Little uud Dry S 'vuges, and by the Uungeroui rocky shoal named Flat Ground. m STRAITSMOUTH ISLAND. 77 ■Rockport is a small harbour, having a depth of 15 to 7 feet at low tide. It Is formed by a pier or breakwater, and its entrance faces the north-east. It is seldom visited by foreign vessels, the sunken ledges eastward of it rendering it by no means easy of access by strangers. When running in, be careful to avoid the rock, just under the surface, at a short distance north-eastward from the pier-head. At about a mile northward of Rockport there is a small anchoring place in the cliii's, termed Pigeon Cove. It has been formed by running out a breakwater from the land to a ledge of rocks dry at low water, by which means shelter has been obtained against north-easterly winds. The depth is 13 to 7 feet, and the space is very confined. When running for Rockport from the northward, or from Rockport to Pigeon Cove, the shore at the head of Sandy Bay must be very carefully approached, because there are two ledges of rock, named Sandy Uay Ledge and Dodge's Rock, which are much in the way of vessels, and especially the latter. Dodge's Rock being nearly ^ of a mile i'rom the land. To avoid these rocks, do not go westward of the head of the breakwater or pier at Rockport bearing South. When approaching Rockport from the eastward, care is necessary to avoid a sunken rock (12 feet) situate midway between the lighthouse on Straitsmouth Island and the liarbour, at about :j of a mile from the coast. As there is a depth of 11 fathoms close to it, and 71 fathoms inside it; it is very dangerous, and should be marked by a buoy. The instructions appended to the chart (U. S. Coast Survey) of Rockport, 1858, are: " Approaching the harbour from the southward, bring the northern liglithouse on Tlialcher's Island to bear W. by N., and the lighthouse on Straitsmouth Island N.W. byN.,as these markswill clear theLondoner; then steer N. N.W. 2 W., passing about two cables' length northward and eastward of Straitsmouth Lighthouse. When this latter building bears S.W. by S., steer W. by N. until the large granite factory in Rockport conu^s W.S.W., when you should run for it on that bearing, passing midway between the points of the harbour, and anchor in 11 feet water, or pass between the buoys to the pier-head." Straitsmouth Island. — This is a small islet separated from the shore by a very narrow and rocky passage of only 3 feet water at low tide. Upon its north-eastern ex- tremity there is a white lighthouse 21 feet high, which shows a fixed light at 33 feet above the sea, visible 11 miles. Ami'ys Ledge, — At about 3- of a mile N.N.E from the lighthouse on Straitsmouth Island, and separated from it by a depth of 5^ to 6^ fathoms, is a dangerous patch of rocks named Avery's Ledge. It has upon it onl^ 4 leet water at low tide, and is marked by a buoy. Its edges are v ory steep, there being in its near vicinity soundings of 7 to 10 tathoms. Salvages. — These are two patches of rocks titua'.e one mile from the lighthouse on Straitsmouth Tsland, between the bearing;, of E. by N i N. and N.P]. i E. The east- erumost av Oove the surface, and hence tertijod Dry Salvages; the others are called Little Salvages. There is a depth of 5 fatlioms ciose to these rocks, which rapidly increases Morthward and eastward to 20 futhon^s, which is at a distance of not more than half a mile from them. Soundings (jf 43 and 4(> fathoms have been obtained at two miles eastward from them, but tlie botton: there appears to be very uneven, a3 almost immediately afterwards, and I'urther eastward, were some casts of I'J and 21 fatlioms.* To avoid the Salvages, and consequenlly the Flat (around westward of them, do not ap- nroach this part of the coast nearer than the north lighthou.se on Thatcher's Island, bi'aii'ig S.W. ^ S., unless you are bound to Rockport. Flat Ground. — At I oi' a mile N.N.E. \ E. from the lighthouse on Straitsmouth Lland \y ■ • y maiking the south end of a narrow shoal, named the Flat Ground, which thence extends nearly half a mile in a similar direcLion, with soundings upon ifc varying from 2 to 17 feet.' Its north end lies with the extremity of H.ilibut Point, lic.uuig VV^^^W. l N. 24 miK-s, and c 1 ve to it are oomnlings of 5 andO fathums, which rauidly increase to 16, 20, and 30 fathoiiis. • ft lias been staled that at 7 to l(> miles fVom Thatclicr's lisland, in an Kasit or H.K. direction, lli.io i\n' h'Vlt.iI :.lony ispot."* of 111 to IS rutlionis' water, liuviiig on tlieir ucctorn side a doptli of JiH II. !0 tHilionift; Ijist no such rtOUiidiiiK-' were olituined l)y Die U.H Coast Surveyors wlieii cMiiiiiuiiiff tl'-^ ititrt of tlie o>u.'ut {) miles in width. Upon this ))ank the soundings vary from 30 to 40 latlion'S, and there are HO and 90 fathoms close-to on its eastern side, deepening to V^O and VM) as you run to the south-eastward. The i>r.>sumed longitude of this bank is GO 2u' W., and it is stated to run Irom lat. 42'' M)' to 43'' 3' N. Tlie Fipiienie-; Hiii\k i)robably lies more east.vard than the position indicated above, Lieut. T. B. liuu'er. of the Const Survey Serviie, 1 ■. >>; obtiiined stmndings of 3rt fathoinu, on the 17th of Uclobbr, ly53, in lut. i'2,^ IT N., and lung. (jU^ 13' \V., at a CASHE'S OR A:MMEN'S LEDGE. 79 locality where 100 fatlioma had hitherto been supposed to be the depth. The surface of the spot giving these soundings is about 3 miles in extent from North to South, and 2 miles from East to West, and immediately around it are 38 and 40 fathoms. Lieut. Huj^er says, " On the 17th inst., I touched the bottom in 40 fathoms, and endeavoured to follow the line of soundings. I was struck with a strong tide-rip, in appearance the same as thos''^ off the Nantucket Shoals, trending to the northward and westward. I ran one line along the eastern edge, sounding in 36, 38 and 40 fiithoms, another line through the middle of it, and before leaving the ground, a line on the southern edge. I am disposed to think that there are several different knolls, with a depth varying from 30 to 70 fathoms, not now laid down on the chart. The character of the bottom, as far as I was able to obtain it, was coarse sand in the 30 fathoms water, and soft mud in the deeper parts." CASHB'S KEDGE. — This ledge lies about 15 miles eastward of the Fippenies, and is situated on a bank of 20 to 40 fathoms water, the extent of which is not well ascertained. On the eastern side of this bank you will soon get into deep water, and there are soundings of from 89 to 90 and TOO fathoms between it and the Fippenies. What renders Caslie's Ledge so dangerous is a flat white rock, in extent about 300 feet, which is situated on the eastern edge of the bank, and has 26 feet or less water upon it. South of this rock there is said to be a gully of 90 fathoms water running in upon the bank in a south-westerly direction, upon the south side of which, at 3 miles southward of the flat white rock, there is a shoal of 7 fathoms, having immediately around it soundings shoaling suddenly from 15 to 30 fathoms on all sides except the east, when it deepens suddenly to 80 and 90 fathoms. At about 9 or 10 miles to the N. by W. of the flat white rock, and separated from it by soundings of 10 to 35 fathoms, rocky bottom, there is a shoal of 11 to 14 fathoms, bottom of kelp. Cashe's Ledge has heen described by several navigators ; but, until sought for by Commander Davis, of the U.S. Navy, (a copy of whose report is given sub;>equently,) its position was not very accurately ascertained. Commander Owen, R.N., a few years since, ran a lino of soundings of 40 to 45 fathoms across the bank, in a north- westerly direction, but was unsuccessful in finding the 26 feet rock, although we believe his search was repeated several times. Tho following description of Caslie's Ledge by the Master of H.M.S. Beaver, was written some years since; it will be observed that the latitude and longitude he assigns to it are incorrect, according to the more accurate determination of Com- mander Davis ; — " I took my departure from Thatcher's Island, eastward of Cape Ann. The island bore North irom me, distant 3 miles. From this bearing I steered E. f N., with a fair wind, 65 miles, and fell in with the bank where Cashe's Ledge is, about 2 leagues to the northward of the shoal, in 60 fathoms water, liard black clay. This bank extends from North to South 7 leagues, and from East to West 2 leagues. In the middle of the bank is the shoal mentioned : its length and breadth is about half a mile. It is rocky, and its soundings very irregular, having 10 to 4 fathoms in the length of a boat. You will have 17 fathoms of water within a cable's len;;th of it, deepening as you stand froni it, to 90 fathoms. As you approach the bank, you sound in from 60 to 35 fathoms, brown sand, with black stones and broken siiells : then in 30 fivthoms it grows rocky. Tho (Uirrent on the ledge is exceedingly i'a])id ai;d unaccountable. If the wind blows strongly, any vessel would founder, although she should not strike on it. The situation of the ledge, by four days' good observation, is hit. 43° 1' N., long. 69° 6' W. As this is a very dangerous shoal, all sliips should endeavour to keep clear of it. On the shoalest part are only 12 feet at low water." It lias since been said by Mr. Backhouse, Master of H.M.S. Argonaut, that this lt mid south sides of the inland are soundings of 5 and 3 fathoms, the latter depth being • Tliene Iinrlioiirs li«vc been recently surveyed hy tlie United StnteB Coast Survcyorn, «nd a very eli';r:iiit elmrt i>t tlieni liax tjeen piiblUlied by tlie omce, at Wa«hliigtuu, wLlcli should b« lu the pon- ■e;i»ivu uf every unu frefjueMtin^ thii part of tlie cuait. SALEM, AND MAEBLEIIEAD. 85 y naiTow from the e surface authwartl between rbour, at ■ises to a aruund it juoys, at vard, tlio u mile ill y; nearly nt Light rest ward, itward of en shells, lus uiilil hould be mer har- and the I of lijL-ht adcptli, jar N.E., ck Shoal, ht bears ■ — From I distaiiee ch lie at II sitiiiite Is, rocks, ;en rocks so ns to y innirii- oiie weii ho Half- It lies lence i(s •, 40 lect . On it per bull, S. i E. 10 feet, Jepth of bearitijf )ove the the east h being id a very 1 the |).;hthouse8 on Baker's Island, bearing E.N.E. } E., when you should steer N. by W. J '■'. till the beacon on Bowditch's Ledge ranges with the south end of Little Misery Island, and the east light or. Baker's Island bears E. | S. Steer now N.W. \ N. till the centre of Great Haste bears South and in oue with Marblehead Lighthouse, when you must proceed as before. Beverly Harbour has a depth of 15 to 20 feet at low t'de, but the space for anchoring is very limited. The assistance of local knowledge is necessary when oiioosing a berth. We believe that all rocks dangeious to navigation are marked by beacons or buoys. Salem. — If approaching Salem by the Main Ship Channel, iteer as previously directed until Great Haste Islet comes in one with Marblehead Lighthouse bearing south, and then steer S.W. ^ W. into the harbour. If the Cat Inland Channel be preferred, continue as instructed for approaching Beverly until Great Haste Islet comes in one with Marblehead Lighthouse, alter which the course is S.W. i W. Salem Harbour has a depth of 4rJ fathoms to 3 feet at low tide, and sufficient room for a large number of vessels. It is almost landlocked. Marblehead. — If most convenient to approach Marblehead by the Main Ship Channel, steer as directed for Beverly, until the hotel on Cat Island opens west of liiigle Island, then change the course to W.S.W. until the east light on Baker's Island boiirs E. I S., when you should steer South till the south end of Eagle Island ranges with Baker's Island Lighthouses, bearing E.N.E. \ E., and Marblehead Light bears S.W. \ S., then steer S.W. i W. into the harbour. Cat Island Channel. — Continue as instructed for approaching Beverly until Mar- blehead Light bears S.W. ^ &., when you may steer S.Vv. ^ W. into the harbour. Sot4th Channel, or channel between Marblehead Rock and Cat Island. Bring Mar- blehead Light to bear N.W. by W., and stand for it till the lighthouses on Baker's Island bear N.E. J N., then steer N.W. i N. till Marblehead Light bears S. by W. i W., when the course is S.W. ^ W. into the harbour. Marblehead Harbour is about a mile in extent S.W. and N.E. , and half a mile broad. It bus a denth of 4 to 2 fathoms on a bottom of hard black mud, and buoys mark the most prominent dangers, so that but little risk is incurred when running in. On its noith-western side is Fort Sewall, and on its south-eastern side a lightliouse 23 feet high, which shows a fixed light at 43 feet above the sea visible 12 miles. Nahant Peninsula, Ac. — When running from Marblehead southward a good berth must be given to Turn Moore's Rocks, a ledge jutting out from Marblehead Neck, at LYNN HARBOUR. 87 fathom I Iway be- named Sauli'fl, se buoys he shore. OBO from s Island W. I W. htliouso .'ur East, wcon the id House inue the 1 on Cat ng at the ste is in iltered to jua Vita) lich steer steer for Bring its fie Island vhen you the south S. Steer arblehcad space for ary when narked by previously e bearing proaching Iter which ient room ''atn S/it'p iS west of >r's Island nd ranges [ght bears ntil Mar* )our. Iring Mar- in Baker's W. i W., tile broad. mark the . On its ,se 23 feet ;ood berth I Neck, at nearly | of a mile from the lighthouse. It has a depth of 4 fathoms close to its ex- tremity, is bare at \ ebb, and marked by a buoy. Tinker's Island.--Th\s is a small rocky islet lying off the south end of Marblehead Neck, to which it is joined by a sandy flat, nearly dry at low water. At about i of a mile south-westward from its south end, and separated from it by soundings of 3f to 9 fathoms, is a rock named Roaring Bull, which is marked by a buoy. Piff Rocks, Ram Islands, Sammy's Rock, &c. — These are all situated at various distances from the shore between Marblehead Neck and Phillip's Point, the north point of Nahant Bay. The Great Pigs, the outermost of these rocks, is as much as 1^ mile from the land, and there being deep water in their immediate vicinity, great care is requisite when passing along in thick weather. Nahant Bay, on the north side of Nahant Peninsula, has a depth of 12 to 7 fathoms, the latter being at about 1;^ miles from the shore, and almost close to the edge of a shallow flat of 12 to 7 feet, which thence extends westward to the beach. The north point of the bay (Phillip's Point) has a rocky ledge jutting out from it some distance. There being no shelter in the bay, vessels should only anchor iu it with winds from the land. Egg Rock. — In front of Nahant Bay there is a small rock, named Egg, upon which is a lighthouse, 25 feet high, which shows a fixed light at 87 feet above the sea, visible 8 or 10 miles. Nahant Peninsula. — The Nahant Peninsula, or Rock, as it is sometimes called, is about 2 miles in extent, and connected to the shore at its northern end by a low beach, dry at low water. This low beach is scarcely broader than is sufficient for a good horse-path, and rendered almost impassable by the sea-weed with which it is thickly covered. On the seaward side of this beach, there is an extensive strand of sand, which at low water is as smooth and hard as marble ; for three miles it stretches away without shell or stone, a surface of the finest sand, so hard that the heaviest waggons scared}' make an impression on it. The peninsula is a place of great resort in the summer season to the inhabitants of the neighbouring districts, its attractiveness being heightened by a readiness of access to it from all parts of the Northern States. Lynn Habboub. — Nahant Peninsula forms, with the coast on its western side, a large shallow bay, the upper part of which takes the name of Lynn Harbour. Lynn is a la.^e and flourishing town situate at the head of the harbour, which is much resorted to by the smaller class of coasting vessels. Shoals dry at low water occupy the whole of the harbour, leaving between them narrow channels of generally only a very moderate depth. The depth on the bar is only 2 feet when the tide is out. When approaching L3'nn Harbour from the eastward and coasting along the south- west side ol Nahant Peninsula, care is required to avoid a sunken rock named Bass, which lies about midway between Nahant Head and Bass Point, the south-east and Bouth-west extremities of the peninsula, at nearly half a mile from the shore. It has a depth of 6 and 7 fathoms close to it and is marked by a buoy. There is good anchorage in front of Lynn Harbour in 5 or 6 fathoms, whore vessels may ride in bad weather. The mark is the hotel on Nahant Head, E.N.E. BOBTOir HARBOim.— From Lynn Harbour to Coliasset Rocks on the south side of Boston Bay the distance is about 12 miles, and between is the harbour of Boston, which, although it aff'ords a sufficient depth of water for the largest ships, is far from easy to enter by reason of the numerous islands and reefs scattered over its surface. The assistance of a pilot is therefore always necessary, and strangers ought not to attempt to run in without.* The islets and sunken rocks in Boston Bay are separated by channels ot various depths, and are moreover so thickly scattered about that an attempt to describe the\n in detail would be useless. Suffice it then to say that there are three principal cluinnels. Broad Sound, Main Ship, and Back or Western Way, and that these are entered through several minor channels, of which those named North, South, Hypocrite, and Black Rock, are most important to mention. Lights.— T\\Q lighthouse on Brewster Island is 66 feet high, and coloured white, and shows a light flashing every 30" at 100 feet above the sea, visible 15 miles. There is also a screw pile lighthouse on the west end of the Spit or Brewster Bar, • The harbour has been recently examined by the offlceri enRBged In the murrey of the coa«U of the United States, and a chart, tlie result of their labouri, h»» been published. This chart should be In the posseision of ever/ ono frecjuentiDg the port. 88 BOSTON. m j liV 11 i IP It abreast the Narrows, wliich shows a red fixed light at 36 feet above the sea, visible 7 miles. In addition to the light on Brewster Island, and that on the Spit, just mentioned, there is a lighthouse on the north-east end of Long Island, one of the islands in Boston Bay, westward of Brewster Island. It is of iron, 22 feet high, and shows a fixed light at 80 feet above the sea, visible 15 miles. Rocks and Siioals. — The principal dangers in and about Boston Harbour are the rocks and lodges near the shore, under the surface, and surrounded bv deep water. They are all distinctly marked on the chart we have referred to, and. shipmasters ignorant of the locality are earnestly entreated not to approach them without a pilot. The following are particularly to be avoided. Outside. — Davis's Ledge near the IMinots ; Martin's Ledge and Tewksbury Rock, near the Outer Brewster Island ; and Maffitt's Ledge, north of the Devil's Back ; which are dangerous to vessels beating into Boston Bay and Broad Sound. The rule is, firstly, to keep eastward of Cohasset Light bearing South ; secondly, not to approach the Outer Brewster nearer than f of a mile on the east side ; and, thirdly, to keep westward of Maffitt's Ledge, giving it a good berth when passing. Inside. — Nash's, Kelly's and Tower Rocks. Directions. — If from the eastward, endeavour to keep in about lat. 42° 20', as you will then be on the parallel of Boston Harbour ; or, should you be in the immediate vicinity of Cape Cod, bring the lighthouse on Race Point to bear South, 3 miles, and steer N.W. ^ W., as that course will carry you well clear of Cohasset Rocks to a posi- tion in front of Brewster Island Lighthouse, whence the harbour can be entered by the instructions subsequently given. When following the latter course it is necessary to keep northward of the direct bearing (N.W. | W.) if the wind be N.E., and westward of it if it be S.W., and make in all cases allowance for the set of the tide ; w^th a leading wind and fiood tide the direct course may be made good, but not so with the ebb, as that sets towards ]\[inot's Ledge Light. If from the north-eastward or vicinity of Cape Ann, no particular instructions are necessary, for unless the weather be very thick, the various lights of Thatcher's Island, Gloucester Harbour, Baker's Island, and Egg Rock will prevent too near an approach to the land ; in any case the lead should be freely hove. In the almost improbable event of getting close up to Cohasset Light without having seen those just mentioned, steer from the coast with it bearing South until the depth of 15 to 17 fathoms is attained, when you may steer W.N.W. for Boston Light. It may here be remarked that the bottom in the vicinity of Cape Ann is rocky, but towards Cape Cod fine sand. To Clear Shoals outside the Channels. — To keep eastward of Davis's Ledge, Cohasset Rocka, keep northward of the line of bearing of Cohasset Light West. Togo north of Harding's Ledge steer N.W. from the light on Minot's Ledge, Cohasset Rocks, until Point Allerton bears W. \ S. when you may steer W.N.W. into Nantasket Roads -, but make allowance for wind and tide. From Nahant Head, if hound for the Main Ship Channel steer S.S.E., or such a course as will give the Graves Rocks a berth of half a mile, passing them on their eastern side ; and, from the Graves steer S.S.W. or S. by W. \ W. until up with the bearing that takes you into the channel. When steering the latter courses great care is required to avoid Tewksbury Rock (10 feet) and Martin's and Boston Ledges, which hitter are marked by buoys. If convenient the Graves may be passed on their western side by giving their south- west point a berth of a cable's iength. Tacking in Boston Bay. — A vessel working up to Boston Harbour in the day, may safely stretch anywhere from Minot's Ledge (Cohasset Rocks) to Nahant Head, until up with the Graves on the one side and the Hardings on the other. The north-east part of tiie Graves must not be approached nearer than half a mile, but the Hardings may be approached close to the buoy. Inside of the line from the Graves to the Harcf- ings vessels may stand to the southward to within half a mile of the shore, and to the iiortinvard to within ^ of a mile of the east end of the Outer Brewster, or the east end of E|;g Rocks. When up with Egg Rocks vessels must not go further northward than to bring Boston and Long Island Lights in one, and when passing Point Allerton must be careful not to go inside or southward of the buoy. A stranger may beat up to the anchorage inside the light on Brewster Island in the day by making short tacks, and keeping at about two cables' lengths from that island, and there wait for a pilot. Rocki BOSTON. 80 When working up to tlie harbour In the night the roclis off Cohasaet, and also Harding's Ledge will be avoided by not going south of the bearing Hrcwster Island Light VV.N.W. When within two miles of that light, vessels must not go farther northward than to bring it to bear S.W. ^ W,,* and when near Egg or Shag Hocks they must not pass northward of Long and Brewster Islands Lights in range. Main Ship Channel. — After making Boston Light (that on Brewster Island) if the weather be bad, or the vessel one of heavy draught, it must be brought to bear W.N.W. to approajh it, as this will lead southward of Thieves' Ledge and northward of Hard- ing's Ledge. A vessel of light draught may run for it when bearing anything between S.W. and W.N.W., until within \ of a mile of the light, when it must be brought to bcar_ W.N.W. to enter the channel. When abreast of the lighthouse bearing North, and in mid-channel, or hallway between it and Point Allerton buoy, a W. | N. course made good leads to the beacon on False Si)it, but if the tide be ebb or the vessel on the north side of the channel, steer West or West southerly, to avoid going on False Spit. The beacon on that spit must be left, on the starboard hand. The course by George's Island is N.W. \ VV.fwith the beacon on Nick's Mate and the middle of the monument on Bunker's Hill in range, until up with the eastern end of Gallop's Island. From this point the course through the Narrows is N.W. by N., keeping in mid-channel and steering for the high land on Deer Island until up with Nick's Alate, which is left on the port hand. Nick's Mate should be passed with Deer Island Beacon on with the nortli-east end of Apple Island by a vessel of light draught, and with it on with the south end of the island by a vessel of heavy draught, to avoid the shoal ground about it. As soon as Nick's Mate is passed steer W. \ N. into President Roads, and con- tinue thus until the west side of Long Island is just clear of the north-east bank of Spectacle Island, when the course must be changed to N.W., keeping this range on until abreast of the buoy on the south-east part of Bird Island. This range leads safely by the Lower Middle, Castle Island Rocks, Governor's Island Point, the Upper Middle, and in the best water over the shoal ground above the Upper Middle. When up with the buoy on Bird Island the course is N.W. by W. \ W., towards the State House, until abreast of the buoy on Slate Ledge, and then N.W. by N. for the anchorage. Hypocrite Channel. — This channel is between the Outer Brewster and Sunken Rocks, thence it runs between Green Island and Little Calf Island, and afterwards to Ram Head, where it enters Broad Sound Chamiel, leaving the buoys on Hall-tide Rocks, Devil's Back and Alden's Ledge on the starboard hand. It is unsafe to strangers. If bound for this channel bring the Graves to bear North, and the south point of Green Island West, and thence steer for the passage between Green Island and Little Calf Island, through which you should run in mid-channel. After passing Green Island steer S.W. by W., keeping the south part of the Graves open southward of Green Island, until the light on Brewster Island is shut in with the Great Brewster, when the Half-tide Rocks, marked by a buoy, will have been passed ; then haul up West t'r.v;ird8 Long Island Light, leaving the buoy on Alden's Ledge on the starboard hand. When up with the buoy at Ram Head leave it on the port hand at 50 lathoms distant. • Such are the instructions on the chart of Boston Harbour, tlie result of the survey made by the United States Coast Surveyors, and publislied at tlie omcc. Wnsliiiitton, 18.^7 ; but we should say that the bearing S.W. \ W. is safe only beyondiha distance of two miles IVom the hght.for the Shag or Kgg Rocks, Boston Ledge, Martin's Ledge, and Tewksbury Hock are all within two miles of it. It appears to us from the ciiart that if vessels keep eastward of the line of bearing Cohasset Light S.S.I<:., they will clear all these dangers, and also the Graves Uocksj and that if intending to enter Nantasket Iloads they must keep southward of the line of Long Island Light and Urewster Light in one, or southward of lirewster Island Light W, \ N. t This course, N.W. \ W., leads over or close to a rock which has recently been discovered in the Narrows, in nearly mid-channel, and in about 4 fathoms water. Its position is so dangerous to nnviRation that it ouglit to be removed by blasting. The published report of it is as follows : — " J'ower Rock or Ledge, upon which many vessels are supposed to have struck, is much nearer False Spit, and the sailing line passes between the two rocks, the distance between them being 85 yards. The following are the bearings from it: False Spit beacon F. i N. (N. 74° E.), Narrows Lighthouse N.E. \ N. (N. 83^ E.), and Nick's Mate beacon N.W. i W. (N. (Jl" W.). y;a«i/i'«.— South-west corner of Nick's Mate beacon and Foundry Chimney in Navy Yard. False Spit beacon and Itoston Lighthouse. The rook is of Irregular shape with a base of about 130 feet in circumference, and rises to a peak, with » depth on the crest of 17 feet at near low water, \!>{i feet e being run for em and perfect, lence at going SCITUATE AND PLYMOUTH. 01 of the difficulties encountered during the construction of the lighthouse will be apparent fi^otn the fact, that a landing can only be effected in fine weather after a continiiance of westerly winds, and then only for a period of two or three hours. Boats cannot lie alongside the rock at any time when the wind is but light, on account of the swell, and a footing is obtained only with much trouble and danger. An easterly wind, however light, raises a sea which renders it impossible to approach the rock. The Outer Minots should not be closely approached on their eastern side, because a reef named Davis's Ledge lies nearly half a mile from the lighthouse on an E. by S. i S. bearing. It has we believe a depth of 16 feet over it at low tide, has soundings of 13 to 9^ fathoms close to it, and is marked by a black buoy. SCXTVATB. — Scituate is a small harbour about halfway between Boston and Plymouth, upon the bar of which is a depth of only 10 or 13 feet at ordinary tides. Its northern point of entrance, named Cedar Point, consists of a very narrow projection scarcely joined to the shore, having on the seaward side very foul ground ; its south point is cliify. Only a few vessels run into Scituate, the accommodation being very scanty. At about two miles W. by N. from Cedar Point there is a meeting-house, and near the N.W. side of the harbour a farm-house with two large barns at a little to tho northward. To enter the harbour, the mouth of which is nearly one-third of a mile wide, it is said that " you oujjht to bring the meeting-house or farm-house to bear about W. by N. from the middle of the entrance, and run in, on that direction, for the farm- house, until the bar is passed, which is a hard bed of stones and gravel, that does not Bhift. After you are over the bar, and upon sandy ground, haul up and anchor near the beach, on the south side of the harbour." The coast northward of Scituate, between it and the Cohasset Rocks, is far from clear of danger, it ought, therefore, to have a wide berth given to it. The Cohasset Kocks are followed south-eastward by a number of small detached rocks, which bear the general name of Stellwagen's Ledges, and which are situate at various distances from the land. At about half a mile northward from tho harbour a ledge of rocks, called Long Ledge, juts out from the shore ^ of a mile, and is succeeded immediately bv deep water of 4^ and 5^ fathoms. There is also a small patch of 3i fathoms at about a mile N.E. ^ N. from the extremity of Cedar Point. Froni Scituate Harbour the coast runs 8 miles south-eastward to Brandt Point, off which is Rowland's Rock, a ledge of only 7 feet water, lying at 1^ miles due West from the shore, with Gurnet Lights bearing S. i E., distant 4J miles. Within this ledge, at the distance of three-quarters of a mile, is Egg Rock. These dangers are, we believe, marked by a buoy: c' 'e to their outside edge is a depth of 4 to 9 fathoms. At about 3i miles southward from Bi. ndt Point, and 2 miles before you reach Gurnet Point, Plymouth, there is a very dangerous reef of 7 feet water, named High Pine Ledge, which extends out from the coast about a mile, and has soundings of 5 to 7 fathoms close to its extremity. It is, we believe, marked by a buoy. VXiTMOVTH. — Plymouth Harbour, 6 miles southward of Brandt Point, is formed on the north side by a long narrow neck of land named Salthouse Beach,* which extends southerly from Marshfield, and terminates at Gurnet Point, and on the south side by a smaller beach within, which juts off from the main land near Eel River, about three miles from the town. The harbour may be known by a round hummock on its northern side, named Gurnet Point, upon which two small fixed lights are established ; and on its southern side by a double high land, named the Monument. The Monument side is full of shoals and quicksands, which dry in several places ; but on the Gurnet, or north side, there is a channel, in which vessels may ride safely with all winds except those from the eastward, during the prevalence of which it is necessary to run farther up the harbour, and anchor within Brown's Island, a sandy flat only just above water. The lighthouses on Gurnet Point are of equal height, the lanterns being about 90 feet above the level of the sea: the lights are visible about 15 miles, and are * On Salthouse Beach is one of the huts erected and maintained by the Humane Society of Massa- obuaetts, for the reception and relief of shipwrecked mariners. There is a breach in tho inaer boaob, which expose! the shipping, even at the wharfs, during an easterly gale. I if 92 BAENSTAPLE AND WELLPLEET. if"'' it, m f ¥' f u ^ m 'M so situated that they cannot be brought in a line when northward of them, unless on shore. Strangers require the assistance of a pilot when bound into Plymouth, ns the channel is subject to frequent changes. In the event of being unable to obtain one, the follow- ing instructions appended to the chart issued from the OflSce of the United States Coast Survey, 1857, may be useful. " Approaching from the southward bring Gurnet Lights in range and nm thus until you are half a mile from them, when the tree on Saquish Head will bear West. Steer now W. by S. till the tree bears N. i E., and Duxbury Pier W.N.W. ^ W. ; then W. ^ N. till Duxbury Pier bears N.N.E. ^ E., and the pier-head on Long Beach VV.S.W. ^ W. If bound to Plymouth steer now S.W. ^ S., passing the latter pier-head at about 80 yards distant, and anchor when Gurnet Lights are shut in behind Long Beach. If bound into Cow Yard, instead of adopting the last-mentioned course, S.W. ^ S., steer North half a mile, passing to port, or on the west side, of Duxbury Pier, and giving it a berth of 100 yards. Anchor in 41 fathoms. When beating into Plymouth Harbour do not stand into less than 3 fathoms on the northerly tack. On the southerly tack the best guide is the rips marking the edge of Brown's Island or Shoal, which can be distinctly seen except in very calm weather." White Horse Lone Rock. The south point of Plymouth Bay is named Elisha's Point ; it should not be closely appi'oached, because a rock, known as the White Horse Lone Rock, lies off it at a short distance, in the immediate vicinity of which is a depth of 65 fathoms. Manomet Point. At 2y miles south-eastward from Elisha's Point, and 5| miles southward from Gurnet Point is Manomet Point, off which are the dangers termed the Mary Ann Rocks. These are from -^ to ^ of a mile from the shore, and have a depth of 7^ fathoms close to outside them, and b\ fathoms in the narrow channel which separates them from the sunken ledge jutting out from the point. A 6-feet sunken rock, named Stellwagen's Rock, has recently been discovered at about a mile from the shore, from which Manomet Point bears nearly North 2 miles. It has a depth of 5 and 7 fathoms in its immediate vicinity. From Manomet Point southward, the shore of Cape Cod Bay is lined by a flat of 10 to 16 feet, which extends out in some places more than a mile. In other respects there is deep water over the whole surface of the bay, with the exception of the extensive Billingsgate Shoal, mentioned subsequently. S ARM'S TAPKS. — The entrance of the port of Barnstaple bears nearly S. by W. 19 miles from Race Point Light, and S.E. f S., 7 leagues from Plymouth Lights. There is a small fixed light on Sandy Neck, the west side of the entrance. Vessels from the northward must not approach the bar nearer than 5 fathoms, until the lighthouse on Sandy Neck bears S.W. \ W., for a long bar stretches out from the point fully 3 miles in a N.E. direction, on the eastern part of which is a buoy, lying in 2 fathoms water; the light bearing from the buoy N.E. \ E., distant 3 miles. When up to this buoy, haul close round it, leaving it on the starboard side, and run about two cables' lengths S.S.W., to clear the south-west part of the bar, then steer S.W. by W. h W., for about 1\ mile, or until the light bears S.W. by S., which will be the case when you are up to Yarmouth Flats; then continue direct for the light. Always be careful to make the above courses good, for the flood-tide generally sets strongly over tliese flats, and the ebb runs equally strong to the northward over the bar. Continue for the light, until you get witliin a cable's length of the beach, and follow the shore round the point. There is safe anchorage inside, abreast of the light, with all winds ; and with the light bearing from S.W. to N.E., you will have from 5 to 2^ fathoms. There is usually a depth of 6 to 7 feet over the bar at low water, and from 2 to 3 fathoms in the channel. Vessels drawing 8 feet water may, at high tide, bring the light to bear S.W. \ W., and run directly for it.* VTBXiXirZiBET. — On Billingsgate Island, at the entrance to Wellfleet Bay, there is a lighthouse 34 feet high, which shows a fixed light at 40 feet above tlie sea, visible 12 miles. The building has a square form, is coloured red, and bears a black lantern. Wellfleet Bay has an extent of about 6 miles in a N. by E. dii'ection, and a breadth of 2^ miles. Its western side is formed by a chain of islets, the southernmost of which is " These instructions for tlie port are imperfect owing to louie recent changes in the bar. Strangers must avail tliemselve* of a pilot'8 assiatance. PROVIXCETOTVN. 93 that bearing tlio lighthouse ; all these are more or less connected together by sands dry when the tide is down. The surface of the bay is almost wholly occupied by shaUDW flats, even, or nearly so, with the surface at low water, and there are some rocks in the middle of the bay, bearing the names of Middle, Lumpfish, Wood's Reach, Sand, and Channel, the situations of which can be best seen by a reference to the chart; the most dangerous of these, or those most in the way of vessels, are, we believe, marked by buoys. Between these flats, and in a direction nearly ^larallel to the islets, isachiuinel averaging in depth 2| to 5^ fathoms, access to which is over a bar of 7 feet. Vessels anchor in this channel and obtain shelter from almost all winds. When running for Welllleet Bay, it is necessary to give a wide berth to the western side of Billingsgate Island, because a shoal of 8 to 15 feet extends from it nearly 5.^ miles W. by S. ^ S. from the lighthouse. This is the position of the buoy at its extreme point, but thence it gradually increases in breadth eastward until its base includes the whole of the islands forming the west side ol' the bay ; consequently it forms a very prominent danger to vessels approaching from the northward. Although so dangerous to vessels bound to the bay, most excellent shelter from northerly gales can be obtained under it. Its edges are steep-to, especially on its southern side, where the lead will drop from 10 or 14 feet into 4j fathoms. When bound to Wellfleet from Cape Cod, get the lighthouse on Race Point to bear East 1^ mile, and steer S. ^ E., maintaining at the same time a good lookout for the buoy on the extremity of Billingsgate Shoal. When up with it, pass it on the west side, and bring the lighthouse on Billingsgate Island to bear E.N.E., and then steer E. by N. I N., until the lighthouse bears N.E, by E. ^ E., at which time you will be 2 miles from it, and in a depth of 4 or43 fathoms, sandy bottom, and should anchor. When beating up the channel care must be taken not to approach too near Billin"s- gate Shoal, as the soundings decrease rapidly. Good anchorage may be obtained further in the bay in 3 or 4 fathoms water on soft bottom, at f of a mile S. ^ E. from the lighthouse, but the approach to it should not be attempted by vessels of burtht;n with- out a pilot.* We believe that there is a small fixed light on Mayo's Beach at the head of Wellfleet Bay, visible about 5 miles. Truro. — Northward of Wellfleet Bay, and at about midway between it and Pro- vincetown, is the harbour of Truro, which is merely the outlet of a small shallow stream, dry, or almost so, at low tide. The bank lining the shore extends out opposite the river nearly a mile from the beach. PKOVZNCETOAXrxr. — Immediitely under the extremity of Cape Cod is the harbour of Provincetown, which is justly considered to be one of the best harbours of refuge on the coast of the United States, as it contains a depth of 10 to 2| fathoms on good ground, and ample room for a fleet of the largest vessels, which may ride shel- tered against gales and free from a heavy swell. The bay is almost landlocked, being open only to the south-eastward. Its extent from the lighthouse to the town is nearly 1^ mile. The north and east sides of Provincetown Bay are formed by the mainland of Capo Cod, and its west side by a low point of land (Wood End) jutting out south-eastward from Race Point, the extremity of the cape. On the extremity of this low point of land, named Long Point, there is a lighthouse 25 feet high, which shows a fixed light at 28 feet above the sea, visible 11 miles. Vessels bound to Provincetown from the northward may run within a moderate dis- tance of the liglithouse on Race Point; and having brought it to bear East half a mile, may steer S.S.E., about 4 miles, when the lighthouse on the Highlands will bear E. f N., and they should run for it 2\ miles, as it will bring them in the fairway of the harbour ; then haul up N. by W. into the harbour, and anchor in 5 to 7 fathoms, with the lighthouse on Long Point bearing S.W. by S., or they may go further iu and anchor with the lighthouse S.E. ^ E. * These instructions for Wellfleet are according to the surrey of Lieut. C. U. McBlair, since which the lighthouse alluded to has been removed, and a more substantial Btructure erected in its place. In the otHcial notice announcing the erection of this building, it is mentioned that " the rinigcs remain the same as those published on the Coast Survey Chart of 1 h53 with the old light- house," but the latitude given, 41° 62' 2i", differs 45" from the position of the old building, 41° 61' 37", lu'iice we suiipect that it has been placed f of a mile northward of it. If our surmise be correct, tlie r.inges can scarcely be similar. In this case of doubt a prudent shipmaster will refrain Irom ruuniug for Wellfleet without a pilot. 94 STELLWAGEN'S BANK. r .\h ;..i r' lli' •"I it ■i I m When running from "Race Point to Wood End, ailer the black land, or hummocks are passed, you will come up with a low aandy beach, which furms the harbour, extending between 2 and 3 miles to Wood End, which is difficult to be distinguished in the night ; it is very bold, and you will have 25 fathoms within half a mile of the shore. When beating into Provincetown Harbour, keep the eastern shore on board, until you get into 5 fathoms, standing no farther westward than to bring the light to bear S.E. ^ E., as there is a long spit of sand running off from the western shore, which is very bold, and with a depth of 11 fathoms within a stone's throw of the shore. In case it blows so hard that you cannot beat into the harbour, you will have good anchorage without, in from 10 to 15 fathoms. If in Boston Bay, and you wish to run for Provincetown Harbour, endeavour to fall in with Race Point. If in the night, and you cannot see the land, bring the light on that point to bear E. by N., and run for it until you have soundings of 20 fathoms, when you will be half a mile from it, or what will be better, do not decrease the soundings below 28 fathoms, which will give an offing of a mile from the shore. From the latter position (the lighthouse E. by N. one mile) steer S.S.E. h E. until Long Point Light bears N.E. by N., when ^'ou should steer N.E. ^ E., untu the same object bears W. by N. ^ N. ajid then N.W. mto the bay, where you can anchor in 11 to 8 fathoms opposite the town. When running along the coast from Race Point, care is required to give it a good berth, because a shoal named Shank Painter Bar, upon which is a depth of less than 16 feet, extends out from it ^ of a mile. It has soundings of 23 fathoms close to its edge, consequently the lead gives no warning of its close proximity. Wood End must also be very carefully approached, being very steep, as almost im- mediately off it is a depth of 21 fathoms. Long Point equally requires a wide berth on its south-eastern side, a ^lat of 6 to 15 feet stretching out from it ^ of a mile, which is immediately succeeded by deep water of 16 fathoms.* CAPS COS. — Race Point, the extremity of Cape Cod, is low and flat, with marshes behind it. The lighthouse stands on a gentle rise of the land, close to the beach, and is a white building 28 feet high, which shows a fixed light Hashing every I5 minute at 35 feet above the sea, visible 11 miles. A fog bell has been placed at a short distance from the lighthouscf Vessels caught by a gale from the north-eastward may anchor under Race Point, at from ^ to f of a mile from the lighthouse, in 10 to 4 lathoms water, and find shelter. The ground is stated to be moderately good for holding. It is not prudent to remain long, nor must the shore be closely approached, because the bank of 10 to 15 feet, running off from the beach, extends ^ of a mile out and is steep. The harbour of Provincetown will be the best place to run for. Stellwagen's Bank. — This is an extensive bank of 13 to 18 fathoms fronting Massachusetts Bay, and situate almost immediately in face of the harbour of Boston. It commences at about 6^ miles N.N.W. from the lighthouse on Race Point, where is situate a small shoal spot of 9^ fathoms, thence it extends in a curved form, the curve bein^ to the eastward, 18 miles in a northerly direction to its north end (13 fathoms), which is situate 16 miles S. by E. ^ E. from Thatcher's Island, Cape Ann. The sound- ings close to its edge are 30 to 20 fathoms, deepening rapidly eastward and west- ward, the 100 fathoms line being at little more than 10 miles from its eastern side. Between its northern end and Cape Ann the depth is 40 to 55 fathoms. It forms an extremely valuable guide to vessels making Boston in thick weather, as a single cast of the lead upon it, the soundings eastward of it being so deep, is sufficient to determine a vessel's position with some degree of certainty. It has been buoyed, a red buoy having been placed on the 9^ fathoms patch at its south end, a black and white one in th« middle, and a black one at its north end. * It is remarked on the chart of the harbour, published by the United Coast Surrey Office, 1857, that " Long Point Bar extends out ^ of a mile N.N.E. from the liglithouae. The harbour is accessible with a N.E. wind, but care should be talcen to keep close in along Long Point, and stand on the port tack towards Truro, until the harbour can be made on the other tack. Extensive flats lie eastward of the harbour along Truro shore ; they shoal gradually, but the shore should not be approached nearer than one mile." t The lantern of this lighthouse was refitted in 1855, and the official notice announcing the change omitted to mention the limit or degrees of arc of illumination. The old light was not visible seaward of the bearing from the ship of S. by W. ^ W., as it was established solely to guide vessels into Provincetown Uarbour, that vesaels caught in Boston Bay by an saaterly gale might gain a safe anchorage. THE PENINSULA OF CAPE COD. 95 CAPE COD TO LONG ISLAND SOUND. From Race Point, mentioned in the previous section, the coast trends 9} miles in a curve to the Highlands, a range of hills 135 feet high, situate close to the sea beach, and remarkable for being the only land much raised above the sea level on the whole of the peninsula of Cape Cod ; they are consequently visible at a considerable distance from all directions. When coasting along the beach should not be closely approached, because a ilat of 7 to 15 feet extends out about ^ of a mile and is almost immediately succeeded by deep water ; this is especially the case along the north shore of the cape between the distances of 1^ and 6 miles from Race Point. Highlands Light. — The lighthouse on the Highlands consists of a white tower 60 feet high, which shows a fixed light at 195 feet above the sea, visible 20 miles. Its position is lat. 42° 2' 21" and long. 1QP 3' 18".* We believe that there is a telegraph station near the lighthouse which is in communication with the Merchants' Exchange News Room, Boston.f CAPE COD TO CAPE MALABAR.— The following description of the coast from Cape Cod to Cape Malabar, pointing out the spots on which the Trustees of the Humane Society have erected huts for the relief of such persons as may be unfortunately wrecked on this part, is by a member of the Humane Society of America, and was written in the years 1804. J " The curvature of the shore, on the west aide of Provincetown, and south of Race Point, is called Herring Cove, and is 3 miles in length. There is good anchoring-ground here, so that vessels may ride safely in 4 or 5 fathoms of water, when the wind is from north-east to south-east. On Race Point, there are about a dozen fishing-huts, containing fireplaces and other conveniences. The distance from these huts to Provincetown Harbour is 3 miles. The passage is over a sandy beach, without grass or any other vegetable growing on it, to the woods, through which is a winding road to the town. It would be difficult, if not impossible, for a stranger to find his way thither in the dark ; and the woods are so full of ponds and entangling swamps, that if the rrad was missed, destruction would probably be the consequence of attempting to penetrate them in the night. Not far from Race Point commences a ridge, which extends to the head of Stout's Creek. With the face to the east, on the left h.ind of the ridge, is a sandy shore ; on the right is a narrow sandy valley, beyond which is naked sand, reaching to the hills and woods of Provincetown. This ridge is well covered with beach-grass, and appears to owe its existence to that vegetable. Beach-grass, during the spring and summer, grows about 2\ feet high. If surrounded by naked beach, the storms of autumn and winter heap up the sand on all sides, and cause it to rise nearly to the top of the plant. In the enstiing spring the grass sprouts anew, it is again covered with sand in the winter, and thus a hill or ridge continues to ascend as long as there is a sufficient base to support it, or till the circumscribing sand being also covered with beach-grass, will no longer yield to the lorce of the winds. On this ridge, half way between Race Point and the head of Stout's Creek, the Trustees of the Humane Society have erected a hut. It stands a mile from Peaked Hill, a landmark well known to seamen, and is about 2^ miles from Race Point. Seamen cast away on this part of the coast will find shelter here ; and, in north-east storms, should they strike to leeward of it, and be unable to turn their faces to wind- ward, by passing on to Race Point, they will soon come to the fishing huts before mentioned. At the head of Stout's Creek, the trustees have built a second hut. Stout s Creek • It has been recently stated that a wide berth ought to be given to this lighthouse on the Highlands, on account of landslips, which it is probable may form shoals off some part of tha coast in its vicinity. t This station was established in 1856, and it is said that vessels in the vicinity of the lighthouse will be immediately reported to Boston and elsewhere if they exhibit their telegraph numbers. X This description of the coast, southward of Cape Cod, is still the best we have. It is very diffi- cult to recognise in the charts of the Coaft Survey the various localities alluded to, as but few of them are named. Cape Malabar is the name sometimes given to the south point of Monomoy Island. Since 1804 great changes have taken place in the coast line, and we believe that many of the huts are not now in existence. ,|tt If! ♦ ij:' li:-*! ' 96 CAPE COD PENINSULA. is a small branch of East Harbour, in Truro. Many years ago there was a bed of salt-marsh on it, and it then deserved the name of a creek ; but the marsh was long since destroyed, and the creek now scarcely exists, apiiearing only like a small depression in the sand, and being entirely dry at half-tide. The creek runs from N.W. to S.E., and is nearly parallel with the shore on the ocean, from which it is at no great distance. Not far from it the hills of Provincetown torminate ; and should not the hut be found, by walking round the head of the creek, with the face to the west, the hills on the right hand, and keeping close to the shore on the harbour, in less than an hour the ship- wrecked seamen would come to Provincetown. The Humane Society, several years ago, erected a hut at the head of Stout's Creek, but it was built in an improper man- ner, having a chimney in it, and was placed in a spot where no beach-grass grew. The strong winds blew the sand from its foundation, and the weight of the chimney brought it to the ground; so that, in January, 1802, it was entirely demolished. This event took place about six weeks before the Brutus was cast away. If it had remained, it is probable that the whole of the unfortunate crew of that ship would have been saved, as they gained the shore a few rods only from the spot where the hut had stood. The hut now erected stands or a place covered with beach-grass. To prevent any accident from happening to it, oi' to the other hut near Peaked Hill, the trustees have secured the attention of several gentlemen in the neighboui'hood. From the head of Stout's Creek to the termination of the salt-marsh, which lies on both sides, and at the head of East Harbour River, the distance is about 85 miles. A narrow beach separated this river from the ocean. It is not so regular a ridge as that before described, as there are on it one or two hills, which the ncighbouiing inhabitants call islands. It may, without much difficulty, be crossed everywhere, except over these elevations. By these hills, even during the night, the beach may be distinguished from those hereafter to be mentioned. It lies from N.W. to S.E., and is in most parts covered with beech-grass. The hills have a few shrubs on the declivities next the river. At the end of the marsh the beach subsides a little; and there is an easy passage into a valley, in which are situated two or three dwelling-houses. The first on the left hand, or south, is a few rods only from the ocean. The shore which extends from this valley to Race Point, is, unquestionably, the part of the coast the most exposed to shipwrecks. A N.E. storm, the most violent and fatal to seamen, as it is frequently accompanied with snow, blows directly on the land; a strong current sets along the shore; add to which, that ships, during the operation of such a storm, endeavour to work to the northward, that they may get into the bay. Should they be unable to weather Race Point, the wind drives them on shore, and a shipwreck is inevitable. Accordingly, the strand is everywhere covered with the fragments of vessels. Huts, therefore, placed within a mile of each other; have been thought neces- sary by many judicious persons. From the valley above mentioned the land rises, and at less than a mile from it the high land (or Highlands) commences. On the first elevated spot (the Clay Ponds) stimds tlic lighthouse. The shore here turns to the south ; and the high land extends to the Table Land of Eastham. This high land approaches the ocean with steep and lofty banks, which it is extremely difficult to climb, especially in a storm. In violent tempests during very high tides, the sea breaks against the foot of them, rendering it then unsafe to walk on the strand, which lies between them and the ocean. Should the seaman succeed in his attempt to ascend them, he must forbear to penetrate into the country, as houses are generally so remote that they would escape his search during the night; he must pass on to the valleys, by which the banks are intersected. These valleys, which the inhabitants call Hollows, run at right angles with the shore; and in the middle, or lowest part of them, a road leads from the dwelling-houses to the Rea. The first of these valleys is Dyer's Hollow, \\ r.iles south of the lighthouse. It is a wide opening, being 20() rods broad, from summit to summit. In it stands a dwelling- house, a quarter of a mile from the beach. At \\ miles south of Dyer's Hollow, there is a second valley, called Harding's Hol- low, climbmg is necessary. I'assmg fdistnncc ad ; and net far from it, on the south, is Pamet At the entrance of this valley the sand has gathered, so that at present a little bing is necessary. Passing over several fences, and taking heed not to enter tla- louse i 10USO River, which luns from east to west through a body of salt-marsh. CAPE COD PENINSULA. 97 s a bed of long since pression in . S.E., and ,t distance. t be found, n the rij^ht r the ship- reral years oper man- grew. The e chimney eniolished. If it hiid vould have he hut had revent any istees have lich lies on miles. A ige as that uhabitants over these [ished from ,rts covered river. At age into a 8 left hand, ly, the part %nd fatal to d ; a strong of such a . Should shipwreck agments of ght neces- it the high stands the o the Table ul'ty banks, tt tempests ing it thou Should penetrate his search ntorsected. the shore; ;-hou8e8 to |se. It is a dwelling- ling's Hdl* lent H little t) enter the ind. Tliis is Pamct The third valley, half a mile south of Harding's Hollow, is the head of Pamet Hol- low. It may with ease be distinguished from the other hollows mentioned, as it is a wide opening, and leads immediately over a beach to the salt-marsh at the head of Pamet River. In the midst of the hollow the sand has been raised by a brush fence, carried across it from north to south. This must be passed, and the shipwrecked mariner will soon come to a fence which separates what is called the road from the marsh. If he turns to the left hand, or south, at the distance of a quarter of a mile, he will discover a house. If he turns to the right hand, at the distance of half a mile he will find the same house which is mentioned in the Ibregoiiig paragraph. The fourth opening, f of a mile south of the head of Pamet Hollow, is Brush Valley. This hollow is narrow, and climbing is necessary'. Entering it, and inclining to the right, } of a mile will bring the seaman to the house, which is situated at the head of Pamet. By proceeding straight forward., aiid passing over rising ground, another house may be discovered, but with more dittioulty. These three hollows, lying near together, serve to detsignate each other. Either of thein may be used, but the head of Pamet Hollow is the safest. South of Brush Valley, at the distance of 3 miles, there is a fifth opening, named Newcomb's Hollow, east of the head of Herring River, in WelUleet. This valley is a ^ of a mile wide. On tlio north side of it, near the shore, stands a fishing-hut. Between the last two valleys the bank is very high and steep. From the edge of it, west, there is a strip of sand 100 yards in breadth. Then succeeds low brushwood, a ^ of a mile wide, and uhnost inipassable. After which comes a thick perplexing I'orest, in which not a house is to be discovered. Seamen, therefore, though the distance between these two valleys is great, must not attempt to enter the wood, as, in a snow- storm, they woidd undoubtedly perish. This place, so formidable in description, will, however, lose somewhat of its terror, when it is observed, that no instance of a shipwreck on this part of the coast is recollected by the oldest inhabitants of VVellHeet. Haifa mile south of Newcomb's Hollow is the sixth valley, called Pearce's Hollow. It is a small valley. A house stands at the distance of a little more thau u ^ of a mile from the beach, W. by S. The seventh valley is Cohoon's Hollow, ^ a mile south of Perrce's Hollow. It is not very wide. West from the entrance several houses may be iouud at tlie distance of a mile. This hollow lies E. by N. from Wellfleet Meeting-house. At 2 miles south of Cohoon's Hollow is Snow's Hollow, the eighth valley. It is smaller than the last. West from the shore, at the distance of \ of a mile, is the country road, which goes round the head of Blackfish Creek. I*assiiig through this valley to the fence, which separates the road from the upland and marsh at the head of the creek, a house will immediately be lound, by turning to the right hand or north. There are houses also on the lelt, but more reinote. The high land gradually subsides here, and 1\ miles to the southward terminates at the ninth valley, called Fresh Brook Hollow, in which a house is to be found a mile from the shore. West. The tenth, 2^ miles south from Fresh Brook Hollow, is Plum Valley, about 300 yards wide. West is a house, J of a mile distant. Betw ii'M these two valleys is the Table Land. After this there is no hollow of importance to Capo Malabar. From Fresh Brook Hollow to the commemement of Nauset Beach, tho bank next the ocean is about 00 feet high. There are houses scattered over the plain open country; but ncrr of them are ne;irer tbati a mile to tho shore. In a storm of wind and rain they might be discerned by daylight ; but, in a snow-storm, which rages here with excessive fury, it would be almost impossible to discover them, either by night or by day. Not far from this shore, to the southward, the trustees have erected a third hut, on Nauset Beach. Nausit Beach* begins in latitude 'U° 51', and extends south to lati- tude 41° 'll'. It is divided into two parts by a breach which the ocean has made through it. This breach is the mouth of JWiuset or Stii(/c Harbour; and from the open- hig the breach extends North, 2^ miles, till it joins tho nniin land, it is about a • On Xamrt Iknch titcre ai-c tliree lifrhltiounoi, each of wlilcli Is IS feet liijtii. Tluy arc dl^'tant from iHcli oilier about f.d yanin, and exliiliit lixfil Hclitsi at Ud feet alwvc the kca, vUlbli' iO iulk». Their poaltiou is lat. 41 61' 87" «ud long. tiU" Ob' 44" W. ,1,1 98 CAPE COD PENINSULA. 1^'- ^ ■ i I- 1* ■• ' : 4 I J! i'il hi; ii«: hit f N furlong wide, and forms Naiiset Harbour, which is of little value, its entrance being obstructed by a bar. This northern part of the beach may be distinguished from the houthern part by its being of a less regular form. Storms have made frequent irrup- tions through the ridge, on which beach-grass grows. On an elevated part of the beach stands the hut, about l^ miles north of the mouth of Nauset Harbour. Eustham Meeting-house lies from it W.S.W., distant If niiles. The Meeting-house is without a steeple ; but it may be distinguished from the dwelling-houses near it by its situation, which is between two small groves of locusts, one on the south and one on the north, that on the south being three times as long as the other. About 1^ mile from the hut, W. by N., appear the top and arms of a windmill. The southern part of Nauset Beach, most commonly called Chatham Beach, and by a few persons Potanumaqunt Beach, begins at the mouth of Nauset Harbour, and extends 8 or 9 miles south to the mouth of Chatham Harbour. It is about 50 rods wide. A regular well-formed ridge, which, in the most elevated part of it, is 40 feet high, runs the whole length of it ; and, with the exception of a few spots, is covered with beach-grass. This beach forms the barrier of Chatham Harbour, which, from Strong Island, north, receives the name of Pleasant Bay. A mile south of the entrance of Nauset Harbour it joins the main land of Orleans, except in very high tides, when the sea flows from the north-eastern arm of Pleasant Bay into the Harbour of Nauset, completely insulating the beach. By those who are acquainted with the shallow, it may be safely forded at any time ; but strangers must not venture to pass it when covered with water, as below the channel is 7 feet deep. On this beach, about half-way between the entrances of Nauset and Chatham Harbours, the trustees have erected a fbur'h hut. The spot selected is a narrow part of the beach. On the west, the water adjoining it is called Bass Hole. Salt-mai sh is north and south of it next the beach, but is here interrupted. Orleans Meeting-house lies from it N.VV. Tlie Meeting-house is with- out a steeple, and is not seen ; but it is very near a windmill placed on an elevated ground, a conspicuous object to seamen coming on the coast. It may be necessary to add, that there are three windmills in Orleans, forming a semicircle; that the mill re- ferred to is on the right hand, orN.E. point; and that the mill in the middle point of the semicircle stands on still higher ground. The Meeting-house of Chatham is situated from it S,W. This Meeting-house is also without a steeple, and is concealed by Great Hill, a noted landmark. The hill appears with two sunnnits, which are a quarter of a mile apart. The hut lies east from Sampson's Island, in Pleasant Bay. Lest seamen should miss this hut, by striking to leeward of it, the trustees have erected another on the same beach. It stands a mile north of the mouth of Chatham Harbour, east of the meeting-house, and opposite the town. Another spot on the same beach would be a proper situation for a hut. It is north of the fourth hut, and east of the middle of Pochet Island. The highest part of the ridge is near it, south. A break in the ridge, over which the sea appears t«ometiates to have flowed, divides this high part from the northern portion of the beach. On the beach of Cape Malabar, or the sandy point of Chatham, the trustees have built a sixth hut. This beach stretches from Chatham 10 miles into the sea trtwurds Nantucket ; and is from a quarter to three-quarters of a mile in breadth. It is con- tinually gaining south; above three miles have been added to it during the past 50 years. On the east side of the beach is a curve in the shore, called Stewart's Bend, where vessels may anchor with safety in 3 or 4 fathoms of water, when the wind blows lionj N. to S.W. North of the bend are several bars and shoals. A little below the middle of the beach on the west side, is Wreck Cove, which is navigable for boats only. The hut stands 200 yards from the ocean, S.E. from the entrance of Wreck Cove, half a mile. Between the mouth of the cove and hut is Stewart's Knoll, an elevated part of the beach. The distance of the hut from the commencement of the beach is 6 miles, Hud from its termination 4 miles. Great Hill, in Chatham, bears N. by W., distant 1) miles; and the south end of Morris' Island, which is on the west side of the beach, N. by E., distant 4 miles. Two miles below the sixth hut is a fishing hut, built of thatch, in the form of a wigwam. It stands on the west side of the beach, a quarter of a n)ile from the ocean. Annually, in September, it is renewed, and generally remains iu tolerable preservatiuu during the winter. Another spot, a few rods from the sea, 4 miles south from the commencement of the Uach, and half a miU north of the head of Wreck Cove, would be u proper situatiua CHATHAM HAEBOUE, &c. v9 ice being from the nt irrup- rt of the Eustham 1 without lituation, le north, the hut, , and by •our, and t 50 roda [a 40 leot ! covered ich, from I entrance les, when Nauset, w, it may II covered f between u/-h liut. [uining it it is here B is with- elevated icssary to e mill re- ! point of 8 situated by Great irter of a tees have Chatham it. It is ; highest .a appears on of the tees have i townrda is con- } past 60 fs Bend, lid blows )olow the jats only, 'ove, half ed part of G miles, , dititant he beach, form of a ho ocean, sorvaliou ;nt of the situutioa for a hut. A little south of this spot, in storms and very high tides, the sea breaks over from the ocean into Wreck Ccve. Cape Malabar Beach may be distinguished from the two beaches before described, not only by its greater breadth, but also by its being of a lest regular form. It is not so well covered with grass as Chatham Beach. From Stewart's Knoll south to the extremity, it is lowest in the middle. In this valley, and in other low places, fresh water may be obtained by digging 2 feet into the sand. The same thing is true of Nauset and Chatham Beaches. The six huts, the situations of which have thus been pointed out, are all of one size and shape. Each hut stands on piles, is 8 feet long, 8 feet wide, and 7 feet high ; a sliding door is on the south, a sliding shutter on the west, and a pole, rising 15 feet above the top of the building, on the east. Within, it is supplied either with straw or hay, and is farther provided with a bench. The whole of the coast, from Cape Cod to Cape Malabar, is sandy and free from rocks. Along tha shore, at the distance of half a mile, is a bar, which is called the Outer Bar, because there are smaller bars within it, perpetually varying. This outer bar is separated into many parts by guzzles, or small channels. It extends to Chat- ham ; and, as it proceeds southward, gradually appmaches the shore, and becomes more shallow. Its general depth at high water is 2 fathoms, and 3 fathoms over the guzzles ; and its least distance from the shore is about a furlong. Off the month of Chatham Harbour there are bars which reach three-quarters of a mile; and «)lf the entrance of Nauset Harbour the bars extend half a mile. Large heavy ships strike on the outer bur, even at high water, and their fragments only reach the shore. But smaller ships pass over it at full sea; and when they touch at low water, they beat over it, as tiie tide rises, and soon come to the land. If a vessel is cast away at low water, it ought to be left with as much expedition as possible ; because the fury of the waves is then checked, in some measure, by the bar; and because tha vessel is generally broken to pieces with the rising flood. But seamen, shipwrecked at full sea, ought to remain on board till near low water, for the vessel does not then break to pieces ; and by attempting to reach the land before the tide ebbs away, they are in great danger of being drowned. On this subject there is one opinion only among judicious mariners. It may be necessary, however, to remind them of a truth, of which we have full conviction, but which, amidst the agitation and terror of a storm, they too frequently Ibrget."* CBATRAM RARBOUB, on the south-east part of the peninsula of Barnstaple, is a convenient station for the fisliery. It has but 18 feet of water at low tide ; and the bar is continually shifting. The vicinity has been remarkable for shipwrecks, but the approach is now much improved by two lighthouses on the west side of the harbour, * Life-Boats, &c. — At Cupe Cod and the surrounding neighboiirlioo5nchu»ett8 Humane Society, at Boston, on Cue 13th of April, 1849, — Notices of the locations of tlie bouts and roclcefs were printed and cxten-ively distributed amungs^t tlie shipping. Following is a copy of the Notice, which cannot but prove interesting to our readers: — " The uudcrsigncd give notice that the old boats of the Society are stationed as follows : — Life dresses for the crew. Edgartown, Martha's Vineyard 1 boat 6 Nantucket, near Tuckernuck 1 n <> Chatham, near the Lights Id H Nauset Beach, Kastham 1 „ ft Between Highland Light. Cape Cod, and Race I'oint 3 „ 15 riymouth, north of the town 1 h ^ Scituate, inside the harbour 1 •• & Cohasset, ditto 1 •• ft Nantasket Beach and Hull 2 „ 8 Lynn, near Swamscut 1 « ft Mnrblehead ilurbour 1 •> ft Ulouoester Harbour 1 •• ft Kockport, formerly Sandy Bay 1m ft Annisquam I » * rium Island, under the care of, and belonging to, the) j j^ Merrimac Humnne Society ) *' There liave been locnted very recently eighteen other boats, nomed No. I, twenty-four feet long: No. a. twenty and twenty-one feet long ; No. 3, fifteen and sixteen feet long— which are Utted aJur H 2 100 NANTUCKET ISLAND. 40 feet high, which exhibit fixed lights at 70 feet above the sea, visible 14 miles. It is said that since their erection the beach has somewhat extended.* On Cape Malabar the south point of Monomoy Island, at 3 leagues southward of Chatham Lights, there is a fixed light at 33 feet above the sea, visible 12 miles. Monomoy Island was a few years since separated from the main land bj an irruption of the sea through the sand beach. WAXil'TVCXET ZSXAlffD is about 15 miles in extent from east to west, and 5 miles broad in its widest part, which is at its south-east extremity, the northern and western parts tapering to points. This island may be recognised by its lighthouses and windmills, which, it is said, can be seen at a considerable distance. The north- west side of the island forms a fine road for ships, which from the eastward, and under 1 I", i-iS m h the plan of Colonel Stanton, with India Rubber canvas floats, made by the Union Rubber Company — the depot of which is No. 19, Nassau Street, New York. They are located at Life dresses for the crews. Nahant, No. 1 1 boat 8 Cut River, Marshtteld, No. 1 1 „ 9 Point Alderton, No. 2 1 „ — Cohasaet, No. 2 1 ,, — Scituate Neck, south of Minot's, No. 2 1 „ — Chatham, near the lifjhts, No. 2 1 „ — Monomoy Point, near the lijrht, No. 2 1 „ 6 Cutfyhunk, near the light. No. '-' 1 „ g Gay Head, near the light. No. 2 1 „ 6 Plymouth, south of the town. No. 2 1 „ — Deer Island, Boston Harbour, No. 3 1 „ 5 Boston Light, No. 3 1 „ 8 Swamscut, Lynn, No. 3 , 1 „ — Ipswich, near the light, No. 3 1 „ 5 Marblehead Neck, No. 3 1 „ — Scituate Harbour, No. 3 1 „ — Cutlyhunk, near the other Boat, No. 3 1 „ — Duxbury, at Powder Point, No. 3 1 „ 6 Rockets for throwing a line to wrecks, so as to establish a communication whereby a boat may be more safely hauled through the surf, are stationed at Boston Light — at I'oint Aldir- ton — Scituate Neck, south of Miuot's Ledge — Ipswich Light, Highland Light, Cape Cod— and at Chatham. Three other boats are being built, under an appropriation from the State, for Plum L«land — one to be under the care of the Jlerriraac Humaue Society ; one at Race Point, Cape Cod, and one at Wellllect, near to Newcomb's Hollow, for the Massachusett's Humane Society. Life prisirvcri for all the crews are to be ftirnished from the same appropriation, to as to in&ure safety, when board- ing wrecks, from the exposed beaches. The undersigised applied to the Secretary of the Treasury to give orders to the Revenue cutters to protect the property of the Humane Society, and to alTord facilities for inspecting the boats and houses on the coasts, and to make experiments, &o. In answer the Secretary writes : — •' In so far as the aid of the Revenue vessels, when employed in the duties tipecially a!>8igned to them by the ninety -ninth section of the Act of March second, 1799, may be useful in proniutiiig the objects of the Society, the department cheerfully assents to your requests. Of this the Collectors at Boston and Newport have been informeil " The Committee earnestly recommend those who may be cast on the exposed beaches, not to attempt to leave the ship until low water — as many lives have been sacrificed by too hastily attempting to land on a rising tide. R. D. Forbes, David Seaks, Samuel Austin, Committee Mass. Humane Society. Boston, April 24, 1849. * Chatham Hurbour siifTered much by a storm in May, 1851, which formed a new entrance and wnshcu ?wav part of the beach. We extract tlu' fuUowingfiom tUcAew York I'oiiriir oCAimc 19, is.'A : ~ •' The new entrance intoChathtuii Harbour was sounded hut week. In the south channel the slioalest place found had 9 feet of water upon it at low tide, and the water is constantly fj^rowiny deeper. In tlie part of the chitnnil where the bench was, the sand Is wushtd entirely away, and there are Ki feet at low water, and muddy botteun. At Mrst, there were two pansaues tlnoiij,'!!, with a narrow htrip of beach between. This strip Is now nearly all wnitiiined soundings of II fathoms, gruy sand and yellow specks, la lat. 40° 46' 80" and long. 69^ 34' 30", or about Vi miles S. ^ E. from the soutli 104 NANTUCKET SOUND. i, ■ [Ml m .L. :j It has been observed " that about the coast of Nantucket and the Shoals, the bottom is generally sandy, and the tide very rapid. In moderate weather a vessel had better anchor than be driven about. The course of the tides over the shoals is nearly regular. The N.E. tide makes flood. A south moon makes lull sea in the harbour of Nan- tucket. A S.S.E. and N.N.W. moon makes high water on the shoals. The tide of flood sets N.E. by E., and ebb S.W. by W., from 2 to 3 miles in an hour : the rise and fall is from 5 to 6 feet." xrAirTircXBT SOtrVD is the space between Nantucket Island, Martha's Vine- yard, and the mainland of Massachusetts. In length it is about 25 miles, in average breadth about 15 miles, and the general depth varies from 6 to 8 fathoms ; but the many shoals, for which this neighbourhood is notorious, very much interfere with its navigation, and render it advisable for all strangers to obtain the aid of a pilot, especially as these banks are so precipitous that the approach to them, in some cases, is not detected by the leadsjnan before the vcjssel is aground, and being composed of loose sand they are exceedingly liable to change their form, depth, and position, besides which, the irregularities thus produced in the level of the sea-bottom give rise to those remarkable currents so peculiar to this locality, and so frequently dis- astrous to commerce. On the edges of the sands most in the way of vessels passing through, or to or from any of the ports in the sound, buoys are placed, which are shifted and re-moored as circumstances require. The principal places in the sound are, Nantucket Harbour, on the north side of Nantucket Island; Edgartown and Holmes' Hole, on the north-east coast of Martha's Vineyard ; and Old Stage and Hyannis Harbours on the Massachusetts shore. There are three entrances to Nantucket Sound, the eastern one between Monomoy and Nantucket Islands, the southern, named Muskeget or Tuckernuck Channel, between Nantucket Island and Martha's Vineyard, and the western between Martha's Vineyard and Elizabeth Islands, named Vineyard Sound.* Lights. — The two fixed lights on the west side of Chatham Harbour; the fixed light on Cape Malabar, the south point of Monomoy Island, and the northern point of the eastern entrance to Nantucket Sound ; the fixed light on Great Point, the north-east extremity of Nantucket Island, and the south point of the said entrance ; and the fixed and flashing light on Sankaty Head, the south- east extremity of Nantucket Island ; have all been described on pages 99, 100, 101. Pollock Rip LigJitvessel, moored in 6 fathoms, 3j miles S.E. by E. \ E. from Monomoy Lighthouse, on the southern side of the shoal, 1^ mile S.E. from its shoalest (7 feet) spot, is coloured red, and exhibits a fixed light at 45 feet from the water, visible 12 miles in clear weather, and in the day-time a red hoop-iron day-mark is hoisted at the mast-head ; during foggy weather a bell is rung end of the Fishing Rip. It was supposed that this cast was on a rip of | a mile in extent from N.N.E. to S.S.W., as only a short time previously the depth was .12 fathoms, and immediately after- wards the lead was again hove in 32 fathoms. This rip (the Asia Kip, as it is called on our chart) was subsequently sought for by Lieut. Phelps, of the United States Coast Surveying Service, who not only examined it, but found another in its vicinity fully fii miles long from N.N.E to S.S.W., and 2 miles broad, upon which was a deptli of 10 fatliouis. Full particulars of these discoveries are expected to be made public shortly. * The following regulations relative to the pilotage were in force some years since, and are added, as they may still be in use : — By the Act for regulating the compensation to pilots, 1820, it was enacted, that any person who shall faithfully and skilfully pilot any vessel through the Vineyard Sound, over Nantucket Shoals, to her port of destination in Boston Bay, or eastward thereof, shall be entitled to receive the fol- lowing rates of pilotage; — From the Ist of November until the 3l8t day of March, inclusive, for a vessel not drawing more than 11 feet of water, 3 J dollars per foot; if drawing over 11 and not more than 14 feet, 4 dollars per foot; if drawing over 14 feet, 4^ dollars per foot. From the 1st day of April until the 3Ist day of October, inclusive, for a vessel not drawing more than 11 feet, 2^ dollare per foot; if drawing over 11 feet, and not more than 14 feet, 3 dollars per foot; if drawing over 14 feet, .^i dollars per foot ; with an addition of 6 dollars if such person shall be landed at any place to the eastward of Cape Anne, and not eastward of Portsmouth; or of 10 dollars if lauded eastward of Portsmouth. The provision? of this Act do not extend to any case where an agreement, in writing, shall be made between the master or owner of a vessel, and the person who may undertake to act as pilot of such vessel, fixing any other rate of pilotage for such aurvicei; but nothing in the Act affects aoj law respecting pilotage previously in Ibree. ie bottom lad better y regular. • of Naii- 'he tide of e viae and la's Vine- ,n average I ; but the ■e with its >f a pilot, [)me cases, in posed of position, ttoni give lently dis- Is passing vrhich are lorth side coast of sachusetts Monomoy Chiiniiel, Martha's ; the fixed ! northern on Great , point of ;he south- 99, 100, I E. from 1. from its feet from hoop- iron 1 is rung extent from lately afler- n our chart) Service, who to S.S.W., icoverics are i are added, person who cket Hhoal.-i, eive the fol- lusive, for a nd not more Ist day of et, '2^ dollare rawing over at any place cd eastward inf;r, shall be ;t as pilot of all'ects an/ NANTUCKET SOUND. 105 and a horn sounded every alternate 5 minutes. A S. by W. course up to, or a N. by E. course for 2 miles from this lightvessel, will, if made good, take a vessel through the slue or swashway, over the shoal, in not less than 3 fathoms ; the black buoy distant | of a mile N. | E. from the lightvessel must be passed close to on its eastern side. The Shovelfull Lightvessel is moored in 5| fathoms in the southern part of the channel between that shoal and the Handkerchief Bank at 4^ miles W. \ N. from Pollock Rip lightvessel, and S.W. \ W. If miles from Monomoy lighthouse. It is painted green, and shows a fixed light 40 feet high, visible 11 miles. A red hoop-iron work at the mast-head serves as a day mark, and in foggy weather a bell is rung and a horn sounded every alternate 5 minutes. By preserving a W. ^ N. course from Pollock Kip lightvessel you will not have less than 4 fathoms up to the Shovelfull, and by passing a red buo}', and leaving the latter lightship close on your port hand, and the opposite black buoy on the south edge of that shoal on the starboard, you may steer N. -^ W. towards Powder Hole or the northern shore of the sound. HandkereJiief SJioal Lightvessel is schooner-rigged, with a black oval grating day- mark at each mast-head, and her hull is painted straw colour, the word " Handker- chief" ill large black letters being on each side. It lies in 5^ fathoms, 1^ mile south- ward of the south part of the shoal, with Monomoy lighthouse N.E. \ N., and Great Point lighthouse S. \ W., and shows a fixed light 40 feet above the level of the sea, visible 10 miles. This and the two former lightvessels serve as excellent guides to vessels entering Nantucket Sound through Butler's Hole, for, by steering West for nearly 3 miles from Pollock Rip lightvessel, or till Monomo}' lighthouse bears North, and then shaping a S.W. by W. course towards the Handkerchief lightvessel, which may be passed on either side, they will go clear of the Pollock Rip, Shovelfull, and Handkerchief on the starboard, and of the Broken Rips or Stone Horse Shoal on the port hand, in not less than 17 or 18 feet water. Although the prominent edges of these banks are pointed out by buoys, too much freedom should not be taken with these courses, because, at the turning point, the channel is onl}' one mile in width, and but very indifferent warning is given by the lead of an approach to either side. Nantucket Harbour, Bass River, and Hyannis Lights are mentioned in the subsequent description of those places. The Bishop and Clerks are a ledge of rocks situated 2 miles southward of Hyannis Harbour, in the northern part of Nantucket Sound; upon the north part of the shoal is a granite tower built on a cylindrical pier 12 feet high, and as the tower has an elevation of 47 feet, the light, which is a revolving one, with a bright flash every half minute, and is shown at the height of 59 feet above the level of the sea, can be seen at the distance of 14 miles. A fog bell is rung by machinery in thick or hazy weather, the interval between the sounds being 15 seconds. Bound to Hyannis a vessel by steering N.W. 9 miles from the Handkerchief lightvessel, will be within 2 miles of this lighthouse, and may then proceed for the harbour as hereafter directed. Cross Rip Lightvessel is stationed in the middle of Nantucket Sound, in the main channel which lies between the extensive Horse Shoe and Tuckernuck Shoals, in a depth of 8 fathoms. It is of a straw colour, sloop-rigged, has a red hoop-iron day- mark at the mast-head, and, during night, exhibits a fixed light at the height of 39 feet, visible about 7 miles. During foggy weather a bell and horn are sounded every alternate 5 minutes. About -3- of a mile south-westward of the lightvessel is the buoy marking the edge of the Cross Rip; the usual passnge is between these. From Handkerchief lightvessel to Jross Rip lightvessel the course is first W. ^ S. 8 miles, and then W. by N. iN. nearly 3 miles. Cape Toqe Lighthouse consists of a whitewashed wooden tower, with a black lantern, and' stands on the north-east extremity of Martha's Vineyard, on the i^oint forming the eastern side of entrance to Edgartown Harbour. The light is fixed, elevated 55 feet above the sea, and visible to the distance of 13 miles in clear weather. A shoal runs off northward from the base of the lighthouse a distance of i of a mile, the edge of which is marked by a buoy. Edgartown light is mentioned in the description of that place. Succonesset Lightvessel is moored in 6 fathoms, in what is called the North Channel of Nantucket Sound, near the south-west end of Wreck Shoul, and nearly J106 NANTUCKET SOUND. I ?, t ml .'.1 IM ■iel. If in- tending to anchor above the first wharf, keep near the wharves to avoid the shoal off the inner jwint of Chappaquiddick. In the night, alter passing the outer buoy, or Cape Poge, make use of the lead, and tack when the bottom changes fron> soil to hard, especially on the western side, where the water shoals suddenly from 5 fathoms to 12 I'eet. After Cape Poge bears E. by S., the course changes from S. by W. to S.S.W., NANTUCKET SOUND. Ill and in sailing up you must observe the before-mentioned precautions as to making usa of the lead. There is good anchorage off the town in from 3^ to 4 fathoms. If intending to anchor in the outer harbour, follow the above directions until the harbour light bears W. b}' S., and Cape Poge Light about N.E. by E. ^ E., when you may anchor in 4^ or 5 fathoms water, good holding-ground. When anchoring, be careful, as the bank on either side is steep-to. HOLMES* HOLE.— This is a harbour lying on the north side of Martha's Vine- yard, and is very useful to those frequenting Vineyard and Nantucket Sounds, as it is a place of shelter easy of access. It is well protected from all points except the north, to which direction it is quite open. Its entrance, between the East and West Chops, is 1^ mile wide ; thence to the head of the harbour, where the width is only \ of a mile, the distance is about 1^ mile. Soundings of from 6 to 3 and 2 fathoms may be had up to abreast the town, gradually decreasing as you advance inwards. On the East Chop a telegraph has been erected, and on the West Chop a white lighthouse, which exhibits a fixed light at 60 feet above the sea, visible to the distance of 12 miles. Time of high water on the days of full and change llh. 43m. Rise of highest tides observed above the plane of reference , 3.1 feet. Fall of lowest tides observed below the plane of reference 0.8 „ Fall of mean low water of spring tides below the plane of reference... 0.1 ,, Height of mean low water of neap tides above the plane of reference 0.2 „ Mean rise and fall of tides 1.7 „ Mean rise and fall of spring tides 1.8 „ Mean rise and fall of neap tides 1.3 „ Mean duration of rise } Iteckoning from the middle of one stand to ) 6h. 41m. Mean duration of fall ) the middle of the next ) 5h. 21m. Mean duration of stand Oh. 11m. If from the ea.stward, follow the directions for Nantucket Sound given on page 107, and when abreast East Cliop haul in to the southward. When coming in from the westward bring the East Chop well open with the West Chop lighthouse, and it will load you clear of the Middle Ground. See the directions for Vineyard Sound. Give the VVest CIiop a berth of half a mile, until y(m are past the buoy marking the rocks off that chop. You can beat in by the lead with perfect safety, the shores being tole- rably bold and clear. You can anchor in 3 fathoms, mud, with the West Chop light just open of the woods on Low Point. Small vessels may anchor farther in, and im- mediately off the town. If you make the light on the West Chop in the night, bearing S.E., you will be clear of the Middle Ground, and may steer for the east side of it till you get into 4 or 3 fathoms on the Hat near tlie chop, and then steer S.E. by E., taking care not to approach the land nearer than in 3 fathoms ; but, if in running S.E. by E. the water should deepen to G or 7 fathoms, haul up S. by W. or S.S.W. to 4 or 3 fathoms, as above directed. PoWDEU Hole is formed by a small curve of the land to the westward and north- ward of the south end of Mouomoy Island, and immodiatelv \ye9tward of the light- house ; it affords a snug anchorage for a few small vessels in from 12 to 18 feet, sheltered from all but northerly and ninth-westerly winds. To proceed to this place steer W. | N. from Pollock Kip lightvessol up to tlieSliovelfull liglitship and the black buoy on tlie south-west end of the Shovell'ull Shoal, leaving in your course a black and white buoy on your starboard, and a red buoy on your port hand. From the Shovel- full lightvessd ha\il upon a N. ^ W. course through the narrow but deep channel between the Shovelfull and Handkerchief Sboals, leaving the red buoy on the edge of the latter on your western side, and as the I'ormer shoal is very shallow and steep-to it will be necessary not to deviate nmch from this course, and to tack at the first shoal cast (under 4 fathoms) of the lead. When M()n(»nu)y lighthouse bears East steer N.E. till it bears S.E. by E. i E., then steer for the liLrlithouse, and when past Monomoy Point, which shimld have a berth of 50 yards, haul in to the southward, and anchor close inside the point in 2^ fathoms, to avoid the Hats to the eastward. Old Stage IIarbouu lies in the extreme north-east corner of Nantucket Sound, and is formed by the extensive fiats which project from the eastern and northern shoroH, which make a kind of basin with an entrance above a mile in width, and onen to th« nouth-westward, the eastern and western sides of which are marked by two buoys, th« red to bo left to starboard and the black to port when entering. Anchorage may b« 112 NANTUCKET SOUND. 1^^ ■1i m I Vit 1 iii i i had in this harhour in ahout 4 fathoms water, good holding ground, but exposed to all winds from the southward and westward. Bound to this place from Butler's Hole, proceed on the before-mentioned N. ^ W. course from Shovelful! lightvessel till Mono- moy lighthouse bears East, when a N.W. by W. direction should be followed to clear the north end of Handkerchief Shoal, and as soon as Monomoy light bears E.S.E. ^ E. steer North a little westerly, leaving the buoys on Roger's Shoal to starboard, and bringing the said light to bear S.E. ^ S., then a N.E. course will lead to the anchorage. Bass Rivee, on the northern shore of Nantucket Sound, will itself only admit very small craft. Before its mouth is a well sheltered roadstead in 15 and 16 feet, except against southerly gales, which bring in a heavy sea, rendering the anchorage insecure. Here there is a small breakwater behind wliich vessels anchor in 6 or 8 feet at low water. Those of light draught may run up close under the breakwater to the eastward of it. A fixed light is shown from a white tower on the keeper's dwelling, situated about a mile eastward of the river's entrance, at the height of 40 feet above the sea, which is visible in clear weather at from 8 to 10 miles off. Vessels approaching from the west- ward should bring the light to bear N. by E. to clear the east end of the breakwater, and those approaching from the eastward should bring the light to bear N.W. before running in for the anchorage. HYANNIS HARBOUR, also on the northern shore of Nantucket Sound, is formed by the point or peninsula of Gammon on the eastern, and the S.VV. Ground on the western side. In the fairway up to and within the small breakwater there are from 15 to 18 feet water, and at the head of the landing wharf from 4 to 6 feet. The deep-water space for anchoring inside the breakwater is, however, very confined, being not more than •| of a mile in extent, the shallow flats from both shores, especially the Point Gammon side, encroaching upon it and thus limiting its area. High water here on full and change days at 12h. 22m. Rise of highest tide observed above the plane of reference 5.34 feet. Fall of lowest tide observed below the plane of reference 1.03 „ Fall of mean low water of spring tides below the piano of reference... 0.32 „ Height of mean low water of neap tides above the plane of reference 0.19 „ Mean rise and fall of tides 3.2 „ Mean rise and full of spring tides 3.9 „ Mean rise and fall of neap tides 1.8 „ Mean duration of rise ) reckoning from the middle of one stand to ) 6h. 44m. Mean durati(m of fall ) the middle of next J 5h. 41m. Mean duration of stand Oh. 9m. The lighthouse, showing a revolvinof light with a bright flash every | minute, on the Bishop and Clerks' Ledge, hius been described on page 105. The harbour light, called also the Bug Light, is situated on the mainland, inside the breakwater; the building is coloured white, and the light a fixed one, elevated '30 feet above the mean level of the sea, is visible to the distance of 8 miles in clear weather. The dangers in the way of voB.sels entering Hyannis Harbour are: — the Bishop and Clerks, now distinguished by a granite tower on their northern part serving as a light- house, which boars S. by E. nearly 2,j miles from Point Gammon ; by giving this lighthouse a berth of ^ of a mile ou the east, north, and west sides, and of one mile on the south side, vessels will pass clear of the rocks in not less than 14 feet. The Senator S/ioal and Oazclle Rock, which lie olf the southern side of Point Gammon, and are both marked by buoys, that on the tbrmor lying nearly a mile in a south- easterly direction from the point, the other inside it and nearer the point ; both buoys should have a good berth on y(»ur northern side. The Middle Ground, which is about a mile in extent from N.W. by W. to S.E. by E., has 15 to 18 I'eet water on it, excojjting at its eastern end, where there is a spot of 12 feet, which lies W. by N., 1.^ mile, from the lighthouse on tlie Hishop and Clerks ; this spot is marked by a striped buoy. The 5^. W. Ground, a. iUi o\' from 7 to 10 feet, water running off 1^ miles southward from the west side of the harbour, with several rocks upon it, the oulerniost group of which, named Gallatin, lies W, ^ 6. from the buoy on tho south-east corner of the ground, and N.W. by W. ^ W. from the Gangway buoy. The Oanffioai/ Rock, a patch of 10 feet, is situated on the W.S.W. Ledge, outside the S.W. Grouiid; tho buoy on it bears W. by S. \ S. from Point Gammon, and N.W. by W. \ W. Iroui NANTUCKET SOUND. 113 Bishop and Clerks' lighthouse. The Great RocJc, above water, which lies on tho eastern side of the passage into the harbour, S. \ W. 1^- mile i'rom the Bug Light. And the Half-tide Rock lying S.E. j E. :f of a mile from the Great Rock, and N.VV. f VV. from Point Gammon. DiUECTioNS. — Bound to Hyannis from the eastward, follow the directions given on page 107 for vessels sailing through the north channel of Nantxicket Sound, till abreast of Bishop and Clerks' lighthouse. Or, from the Handkerchief lightvessel steer N.W. towards the s.aid lighthouse, and give it a berth on your port hand of \ a mile or more. Or, if from the southward and eastward, and in a position oil' Great Point, with its lighthouse bearing South, distant about 3 miles, steer N.W. by N. towards the Bishop and Clerks, and round the\n sit the same distance. To sail through the North Channel, or that between the Bishop and Clerks and the Senator Shoal, having proceeded on either of the two latter courses, till the Bishop and Clerks' lighthouse bears W. by N. about \ of a mile distant, steer N.VV. \ W. about 3 miles, until Point Gammon bears E. by N, \ N., and the Bug Light is in one with the west spire of Hyannis ; here the east end of the breakwater will be in one with the second small windmill of the salt-works westward of the Bug Light, and on with the end of the wharf, bearing N. | E. Hun in with this latter mark on (N. f E.) about 1^ mile, double close round the east end of the break- water, run N.N.W., a cable's length or so, and anchor in 16 feet water on a nmddy bottom. If bound into Hyannis by the Middle Channel (the one between the Bishop and Clerks and the Middle Ground), pass at least one mile to the southward of the Bishop and Clerks' lighthouse, leaving the buoy on the south extreme of the reef on the star- board hand, and bring Point Gammon to bear N. by E. ; run in on that course until the lighthouse on the Bishop and Clerks bears E. \ S., distant nearly one mile, when you steer N.N.VV., 2 miles, leaving the striped buoy on tlie Middle Ground 3- a mile to port, until Point Gammon bears E. by N. \ N., distant 1 J- mile ; you now proceed as before. If bound in by the West Channel (the one between the Middle Ground and the W.S.W. Ledge), proceed from Vineyard Sound up to Succonessct lightvessel by reversing the directions on page 108, and fn-.n that lightship steer E. by N. \ N., and when Point Gammon bears N.E. by E., distant 2^ or 3 miles, run on that course, leaving the Gangway buoy three-fifths of a mile to the northward and westward, until tlie Bug Light is just open to the westward of the West Spire, and the east end of the breakwater is on with the second windmill westward of the Bug Light, when you may run N. I E., as before. To sail from Holmes' Hole to Hyannis, steer E. by S. \ ^.J^\ miles, passing between the red buoys on the east and west end of the S{piasli Meadow and the strij)ed buoy on the east end of Hedge Fence ; Cape Poge lighthouse will then bear S. hy W., distant 2\ miles. Or, from the entrance of Edgartown Harbour steer N.E. to the same positicm oft' the lighthouse. Now shape a course towards Succonessct lightvessel, steering N. by E. or N. by E. \ E., and when up with it, leave it a short distance on the port hand and steer E. by N. \ N., as before, leaving the red buoys on Eldridge and on the north-west end of Horse Shoe Shoal on the starhoard hand. Vou will know when you are oft" this end of the Horse Shoe by your water deepening to l>, 10, and 11 fathoms. In turning to windward do not approach the Horse Shoe nearer than into li depth of 10 fathoms, nor to the shore than into 'i\ fathoms. In worliing up llyatniirt llarboiir, when abreast of the S W. Ground, do not approach nearer than 2^ fathoms to either shore. When to the northward of the Great Rock, the eastern murk is the Ihi" liight on with West Spire; and when to the northward of the buoy on the south- east end of the S.W. Ground, the western mark is tho west end of tho breakwater on with Bug Light. VZKBYARS BOVirD, the western channel to or from Nantiieket Sound, runs >n E.N.E.-ward, between Martha's Vineyard and the Eliziibetli Islands, which latter scnarate it from Buzzard's Bay. Its length is 15 miles, the average breadth about 1. nulfs, and tho soundings range from 10 to 10 fathoms, excei»t in the immediate vicinity of the shoals. The Elizabeth Islands are (5 in number, and form a narrow chain of \\ mile in breadth, and 14 miles in length, extending in an E. by N. i N and W. by S. \ 8. direction. The principal dangers in tho sound are, the Devil's Bridge, tho Sow and Pigs, Lucas Shoal, and the Middle fd buoy, les are very lly near on iL' separated oms. It is )y a striped kV. by VV. a uud, and 1 1 mile off the nearest part of the shore of Martha's Vineyard, with from 5 to 18 fathoms between. There is a small isolated patch of 18 feet 1^ mile S.W. by W. i VV. from Lucas Shoal, with 5 and 7 fathoms between. The Devil's Bridge, a broad ridge of rockn extending north-westward ^ a mile from Gay Head, has a red buoy on its extremity, but being steep-to, vessels should exercise considerable care in rounding the head, giving it a berth of one mile or more. The So/v and Pigs Recfls formed of rocks of various shapes and sizes, resting on a hard bed of mixed rock and pobbles, with the interstices tilled with sand and clay. The rocks extend from the West BlutF of Cuttyhunk Island, the westernmost of the Elizabeth Isles, in nearly regular succession, iir.st VV. by S. iibout IGOO yards, then S.S.VV. 820 yards, and terminate in a S.W. by W. direction 550 yards. The general direction and length of the reef, measuring from Cuttyhunk Island, is S.W. by \V. ^ W. 1| mile. Small vessels whose masters are acquainted sometimes pass over tiie middle of the reef, through a swatch way wherein are i'rom 12 to 17 feet, and sometimes between the red buoy on its extremity and the lightship; but strangers should always pass outside and southward of the lightvessel. Southerly and westerly winds always cause a heavy swell, while those liom the north-westward and eastward maintain a smooth gentle sea. The first of the flood sets strongly to the northward over this reef into Buzzard's Bay, and, therefore, caution is required to counteract its influence when in this vicinity at such a time. Directions. — Having followed the instructions for sailing through Nantucket Sound up to West Chop and Nobska Point, given ou page 107, it trom the main channel through that sound, and steering on the last-mentioned (N.W. by VV.) course, as soon as you are about a mile S.E. by E. from Nobska lighthouse, alter your course to VV^S.W. Or, if from the north channel of that sound, from between L'Homme de Dieu Shoal and the main of Massachusetts, steer West towards Xobska lighthouse, and when it is distant I2" mile from you on that bearing, haul up W.S.W., as before. Continue ou this VV^S.W. course, and you will pass .'rom 1 to 1^ mile northward of the striped buoys on the west end of the Middle Ground and Lucas Shoal, from 'S} to 4 miles northward and westward of Gay Head, and about a. mile eastward and south- ward of Tarpaulin light. When Cuttyhunk lighthouse bears N.N.E. and the Sow and Pigs lightvessel N.N.W., you will be in a tlepth of 11 or 15 fathoms, and may steer W.X.VV. towards Newport Harbour, VV^est for the channel on the north side of Block Island, and W.S.W. towards the south side of Block Island and ^lontauk Point. Vessels from the westward, bound through Vineyard and Nantucket Sounds to tho eastward, or to any of he ports in the same, will iiud no dithculty in reversing the foregoing directions and those given on page lOO. Coming from the southward and eastward, you may run for the light on Gay Head, when it bears from N.N.E. to E.S.E,, giving it a berth of about 2 miles, to clear the Devil's Bridge, which extends fronr the light N.W. by N. nearly a mile. As the tlistauce cannot be exactly ascertained in the night time, you should, at that time, keep the lead going; and if, when the light bears S.H by E. or S.E., you fall into 7 or 8 fathoms, haul up to the northward until you deepen to 10 or 12 ; if then it be flood- tide, steer N.H. ; but, if ebb, N.E. by E.,'3 leagues. E.N.E. will then be the course for Vineyard Sound, and it will carry you to the northward of the ^liddle Ground, until you see the light on the west chop of Holmes* Hole ll.irbour, towards which you may then run in, observing only to keep one mile from tlie shore, until the east chop appears a cable's length open; when with the tide of ilood you may steer directly Ibr it, with the ebb, however, keep it one point open, until you have a wnidmill open about a cable's length on the west side of the harbour. You may now run up in the middle of the luuhour, till you get in a depth of -1 or 3 i'atboms, when you anchor in good ground. See page 111. If coming into the Sound in tho night, with a strong north-westerly wind, haul ti) the northward until you have smooth water 'uider the Kii/.aheth Ishinds, where you may anchor in from 11 to lO fathoms. With tho wind to the southward, it' at all a(i|uainted, it is best to run through the Soiif/t Clunnicl, between the Middle Ground I and Martha's Vineyard : but observe to appro.uh the island no nearer than to the ile[ith of 7 fathoms, until you are abreast of Lujubert's Cove, in which there is a good iiuchorage with southerly anil easterly winds.* This place may bo known by a high * When iiiakiinf lor thl» itluce or chunnul, rcini'ijibiT the iiositiou of Lucus Sjlioul, &c. Sec puyc IH !'■ U6 VINEYAED SOUND. i'f fr.T ll'l it^:( n -J II I " ''• sand-bank named Necunkey ClifF, on its eastern side ; mid-way in the cove is the hest anchorinaf, in from 5 to 3 fathoms, sandy ground. The western end of the Middle Ground lies about l-y mile without the cove, and has from 9 to 14 feet water over it. Should you intend to proceed hence towards Holmes' Hole, the course from opposite Necunkey Point will be about E. by N., keeping sufficiently near the land to clear the Middle Ground, You may run along by the lead, in from 7 to 4 fathoms until you approach nearly to the West Chop, in the depth of 3 fathoms. With this depth you maj' round the chop in the same manner as when running down from the north side of the Middle Ground. Along the shore, between Necunkey Point and the west chop, there is good anchorage in from 6 to 4 fathoms. WOOD'S HOLE. — This place is immediately westward of Nobska Point lighthouse. It has two entrances, one from Vineyard Sound, between Nobska Point and Nona- messet, the easternmost of the Elizabeth Islands, and the other from Buzzard's Bay, between Long Neck and Uncatena Island. Thus Wood's Hole serves as a harbour, and also as a channel ibr small vessels passing from the sound into the baj'', or vice versa. There are two harbours, both on the eastern side of the channel, and named Great and Little Harbours. Great Harbour, on the south-east side of Long Neck, affords anchorage in from 4 to 8 fathoms, but is open to southerly winds ; its length is ^ and breadth ^ of a mile, the principal dangers are pointed out by buoj's, and there is a landing-place, named Bar Neck Wharf, on its eastern side, nearly close to which are 5 and 6 fathoms water. Little Harbour, separated from the Great Harbour by Parker's Neck, has its entrance ^ a mile north-westward of Nobska lighthouse, runs in about ^ of a mile to the northward, and is, therefore, also open to southerly winds, is from 1 to 2 cables' lengths in breadth, and has a depth of from 6 to 10 feet at low water. It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon in the Vineyard Sound entrance at 8h. 34m., and in the Buzzard's Bay entrance at 7h. 59m. ; the mean rise and fall of spring tides at the former place is 2 feet, neaps 1"23 feet ; and at the latter 4*7 feet, neaps 3'14 I'eet. The fixed light has been before described on page 114. Having arrived off Nobska Point by the directions given on pages 107 and 108, and in- tending to proceed into tlie Great Harbour by the Ship Chaimel, when off the harbour in 6 fathoms, bring a yellow house* at the head of the harbour to bear N. ^ W. Steer for it, leaving a black buoy on the port hand, and two red ones to starboard, and when Bar Neck Wharf bears E.N.E. anchor. Or, steer N.W. for the inner harbour, and bring-to in from 4 to 8 fathoms. Red buoys mark the eastern and black the western limits of this channel, in which, if these courses are preserved, there is not less than 18 feet water, except on a patch lying nearly ir. mid-channel off the extremity of Parker's Neck, whereon are only 15 feet, which you will leave a little on your port hand. Another bearing for entering by this channel, from the above position off the harbour, is the Blacksmith's Shop on Bar Neck a vessel's length open westward of the blulf land of Parker's Neck. Continue on this course till the southern point of that neck comes in range with the church to the north-eastward, then steer for the eastern part ot the breakwater until Bar Neck Wharf bears E.N.E. , as before. In a small vessel, as soon as Parker's Point comes in line with the church, you may haul round to the eastward of it, giving it a berth of half a cable's length, and proceed up into the Little Harbour. The Eastern Channel into Wood's Hole Harbours is only suitable for vessels of very light draught, there being but 8 feet over the bar which connects Parker's Neck with the Great Ledge situated in the middle of this entrance When entering by it give Nobska Point a berth of 2 cables on your starboar ■ side, and steer N.W. by W., passing midway between the black buoy on tlio south-east part of Great Ledge and a red buoy marking a 3-feet patch lying off the mouth of Little Harbour. Hiiul up North if bound into the Little Harbour, or, continue on your course, give Parker's Point a berth of nearly a cable's length, and steer for the Great Harbour as before. To pass from the Great Harbour into Buzzard's Bay when abreast Lone Rock gpindlo, bring the largest house on the high land of Parker's Neck to bear E. -} N., steer W. ^ S. so aa to leave Lone Rock spindle and two black buoys almost close-to on the lelt hand, and when the bay is broad open, steer out N. by W. ^ W., leaving s^ red buoy about a cable's distance on your riglit, and a black one off the north- * This house it the westcrntuoat on Bar Neck i it has wings, and is one and a half storey high. VINEYAED SOUND. 117 I is the best the Middle iter over it. om opposite to clear the 19 until you is depth you lorth side of 3 west chop, ■j lighthouse. b and Nona- zzard's Bay, s a harbour, bay, or vice , and named Long Neck, its length is s, and there ose to which Harbour by thouse, runs ,herly winds, feet at low :he Vineyard :. 59ni. ; the 23 feet; and described on 1 108, and in- ; harbour in 6 y. Steer for d, and when larbour, and the western less than 18 Y of Parker's port hand, the harbour, I oftheblutr )f that neck the eastern In a small y haul round up into the Rsels of very s Neck with by it give .W. by W., edge and a Haul iij) ve Parker's larbour as Lone Rock ear E. -} N., lost close-to W., leaving the north- itorey high. east point of Uncatena Island a similar distance on your left hand. See Wepecket Island, &c. TARPAULIN COVE.— This cove is near the middle of Naushon Island, on the western side of the Vineyard Sound, and, although small, is yet a good place of shelter, as if you are well provided with ground-tackle you may ride out a heavy gale, tlie ground being excellent. The soundings in the cove are from 15 to 18 feet, deepening immediately outside to 8 and 10 fathoms, but there are some rocks lying nearly l.j cable's length from the shores of the cove which must be avoided. Near tlie light- house there is a rock of 7 feet, marked by a black buoy, to be left to port on entering. This cove is exposed to all winds between East and E.S.E. Vessels when at anchor here should moor in 5| fathoms with Gay Head Light just open with the lighthouse point. High water on full and change days at 8h. 4m. ; springs range 2.v, neaps 1]- feet. The fixed light on the south point of the cove has been described on page 114. Quick's Hole, the passage from Vineyard Sound into Buzzard's Bay between Pasque and Nashawena Islands, is but | of a mile wide, though from 4 to 8 fathoms deep in the fairway. Its eastern entrance is N. y E., 5 miles from Gay Head lighthouse, and distinguished by a black buoy on the southern and a red buoy on the northern side. Steer in midway between these buoys N.W. by N. till half-way through the Hole, then North into Buzzard's Bay, keeping as nearly' as possible the middle of the channel throughout, or, if obliged to deviate at all, approach nearer the western rather than the eastern shore, following souiewhat the bend of tliat coast. Half a mile northward of the western entrance there is a small and steep rocky patch of 3^ feet, marked by a striped buoy, to which a berth should be given on either hand. Menemsha Bigut, immediately north-eastward of Gay Head, affords good anchor- age in from 5 to 9 fathoms, about 2| miles eastward of the lighthouse, with the wind from East, round by South, to S.VV., but being much exposed to the influence of northerly winds, it should be resorted to only in the summer, or at other times from necessity. There is no danger in the bight, except the flat lining the shore, which may be avoided by giving the land a berth of | a mile, or by not going into less than 5 fathoms. When rounding Gay Head for this bight give the lighthouse a berth of 1| mile or more to avoid the Devil's Bridge, the extremity of which is pointed out by a red buoy. From this anchorage to Tarpaulin Cove the course and distance are N.N.E., 6^ miles, leaving the .striped buoy on Lucas Shoal for 1-} mile to star- board. No Man's Land and Channel. — No Man's Land is a small island situated off the south-west end of Martha's Vineyard. It is about 1^ mile in length and | of a mile broad, and separated from Martha's Vineyard by a channel 2^ miles wide, and from 3^ to 6 fathoms deep ; but there are two or three shallow and rocky patches which very much check its fiee use and makes it safer to pass outside the island if at all unacquainted. Almost dose-to on the south side of the island there are soundings of 3, 4, and 7 fathoms, but a shallow flat lines its nortli-east side ; temporary anchor- age, however, may he had in 3 or 4 fathoms off its north-western shore when the wind blows from south or south-eastward. The Old Mau and Lone Rocks, which occupy a position right in the fairway of the channel, and are, we believe, nuuked by buoys, divide it into two passages; to sail through the southern, keep at about I * '"'1ifr, ihe westernmost of the Elizabeth Isles, has been described on page 114. When entering Buzzard's Bay bring it to bear East, distant 3^ miles, and then steer N.E. by E. Sibboii Rock (15 feet) lies N.W., 1^ mile irom this light. Round or DumpJinf] fixed light is placed on a white building serving as the keeper's dwelling, at the height of 42 feet above the sea, and is visible to a distance of 12 miles. It is situate on one of the Dumpling Rocks lying off Round Hill Point, on the western side of the approach to New Bedford, and 7^ miles N. by E. f E. from Cutty- hunk light. Clark's Point light is shown from a white tower 4S feet high, and built on the point forming the western point of entrance of New Bedf(n-d Harb'ur, 3^ miles, nearly N.N.E. from the Dumpling light, and 11 miles on a similar bearir , from thiit of Cutty- hunk. The light is fixed, 57 feet above the mean level of the sea, and visible to the distance of 12 miles. Mattapoiset, or Ned's Point, is a fixed light at the height of 43 feet, visible 11 miles ; it is exhibited from a white building erected on the point of that name, on the northern side of the harbour, and is, therel'ore, about 16 miles within and on the we.st side of Blizzard's Bay. Bird Is/and, about 2^2 miles further towards the head of the bay, and also on its western side, is on the northern side of the entrance to Sippican Harbour, aud has upon it a white stone lighthouse, exhibiting a light, revolving once in every 1^ minute, from a black lantern, at an elevation of 35 feet, visible 10 miles. Wing's Neck, or Wenaumet Neck, at the head ol' the bay, and nearly opposite Bird Island, has a white dwelling house on its western extremity, on the top of which is a fixed light, 44 feet high, and visible 10 miles. This light and the revolving one on Bird Island serve as excellent guides to vessels bound up to the head of Buzz.ird's Bay in the night time. DiKRCTioxs. — It maybe mentioned that the soundings across the entrance of Buz- zai'd's Bay, between the Sow-and-Pigs on one side, and the Hen-and-Chickens on the other, and to some distance within, are very irregular, varying from 5 to 10 and 15 fathoms ; the bottom generally hard. From i\\& tpestward -AniS. bound up Buzzard's Bay shape a course so as tobringSiugh- konnet Point to bear north, distant 3 miles, then steer ¥j. 4 N. till Cuttyhunk light- house bears S.S.E., leaving the bell buoy,* lying off the extremit}- of the Hen-and- Chickens, about a mile distiint on the port, aiul the striped buoy on the Ribbon Ri-ef a similar distance on the starboard hand. Now change your course to N.E. by E. \ E., f)assing 1\ mile westward and northward of the small island named Penikese.f and eaving the black buoy on Mushaum Ledge, 1} mile, iuid the striped one on Wilkes' Ledge, one mile distant on j'our western siilo. Having followed this hitter direction for nearly 10 miles, it will carry you well outside all the dangers before the entrance of New B.'dford,* and up to abreast the black l>\U)y on the extremity of the ledge running \ of a mile southward from West Island, and to where Ciark'^j Point lighthouse will bo ♦ It consists of a b'ack can buoy, with a bill wcigliin^"- 300 po^uul^ secured on its top in an iron frame, surmounli;il by a hoop iron ilay-ni;irk, and x-, moored in 7 I'aUioui.s water about i of a niilo S. by K. from tlie Old Cock, and N by \V. fr.nn the Vineyard or Sow and Tijis lijj;liive'ican, Ware- change dti^'s jat the tide- i set of the iternmoat of zzard's Bay »i Roclc (15 the keeper's itance of 12 \>int, on the from Cutty- )uilt on the niles, nearly i;\t of Cutty- 'isible to the t, visible 11 anie, on the on the we.st [ also on its nd has upon linute, from pposlte Bird which is a Mug one on izz.trd's Bay noe of Buz- cens on the 10 and 15 fin;; Saugh- nink liglit- e Hen-and- bon Rref a by E. \ E., ikt'so,t and oil Wilkes' lirection for entrance of go running 3US0 will he op in an iron \ uf a mile ru>sel. It id ut one mile, •cky |)at.h of ])()iiit is n ttden vessels, from Clark's if the above BUZZAED'S BAT. 119 seen bearing N.W, by W. Hence you may steer N.E. towards the head of the bny, passing at a good berth on your port hand, in successive order, the spindle on the Cor- morant Rock, the striped buoy on Nye's Ledge, the black buoy on Bobell Rock, and Bird Island lighthouse; and on your starboard side, when near Bird Island, the black and the red buoys on the edge of the shoal fronting Scraggy Neck-, and Wing's Neck lighthouse. Between these two lighthouses your -oundings will be i and 5 fathoms, gradually decreasing as you approach the broad aiu lallow flat OL-cupying the head of Buzzard's Bay, over which are the channels to Wareham Harbour and ]\I()numet River. Even if no pilot has yet been obtained, it will be necessary for a stranger now to get such assistance in order to proceed to either of these places. Bound to New Bedford, Mattapoiset, or Sippican, and having fol'owed the above instructions till j'ou arrive off the entrance of the one you are bound for, then proceed as subsequently di- rected in the description of those places. Vessels from the eastward sometimes enter Buzzard's Bay through Quick's Hole (see page 117), taking care, in passing out of it into the bay, to keep Ga}' Head Light o|)en about a ship's length by the south-east point of Nashawena, till you are at least one mile north of the Hole, and this will carry you to the eastward of the Lone Rock, which lies about \ ainile from it, has only 3.^ fe.,'t of water over it, but there is a good cliannel on either side and 5 fathoms close-to all round. This rock, however, is now distinguished by a red and black striped buoy, and, therefore, can tlie more easily be cleared on either hand. From the Lone Rock, bound to New Bedford, steer N. \ W. 5 miles, towards Clark's Point lighthouse, or till you strike hard bottmn in 5 or 6 fathoms, on the south-east corner of the Great Ledge, which is on the western side of the channel, pointed out by buo3's, and situated rather more than one mile eastward of Dumpling lighthouse; then N.E. by N., about a niile, till in G or 7 fathoms, sticky bottom, when the light on Clark's Point will bear N.N.W., and you will be at the entrance of the eastej-n channel, cind may proceed as hereafter directed. But if bound up the Bay, from the Lone Rock steer N.E. by N. till up with the black buoy on the south-east end of West Island Li;dge, when Clark's Point lighthouse will bear N.W. by W., and you may proceed as betbre. The channel from the eastward, as above, is considered to be the best; but if cir- cumstances render it more convenient, you may proceed to the northward of the Eliza- beth Isles, by first passing to the southward of the Sow-and-Pigs lightvessel, and run N.E. by N., with the Dumpling lighthouse in this dir('e;Lion, leavii^g Ribbon Reef striped buoy to the eastward of you, and when Pune or Penikose Island bears I'].S.E., you may change your course to N.E. by E. \ E., and proceed up the bay as directed for vessels coming from the westward. If running for New Bedford, as soon as Clark's Point lighthouse bears N. \ W., at which time Gay Head light will bear S )uth, steer for it till you strike hard bottom in 5 or 6 fathoms off the south-east corn^-r of the Great Ledge, then haul up N.E. by N. about a mile, and when Clark's liglithouse is seen bearing N.N.W. you will be at the entrance of the eastern channel into that har- bour, as before, Penikkse Channel, the passage between Penikese Island and Cuttyhunk and Nashawena Islands, has from 4 to 6 fathoms water in it, and is considered^ safe and re- liable lor vessels of the greatest draught beating up the bay or bound for New Bedford, but is so confined by isolated rocks and the shoals extending from the islands, that it cannot be recommended to strangers. Vessels sailing through to the eastward leave the black buoys on the northern and the red ones on the southern side, passing the striped buoy on i\Iiddle Ledge on either hand as most convenient. Cattyhunk Uarhour, between Nashawena and Cuttyhunk Islands, in which there is good anchorage in from 2 to 4 fathoms, has its entrance from this channel ; when going in take care to leave the red buoys on Whale Rock and Pease Ledge on the star- board hand. NEW BEDFORD, a place of consider;) ble trade, is situated on the western shore of Buzzard's B.iy. Generally speaking, its harbour may be consideredjis cf)mprised be- tween Round Hill and Dumpling Rocks on the western, and Sconticut Neck on the eastern side. Between these points there are a great number of rocks and rocky ledges which divide the entrance into several channels : the three principal and the most used are, the Eastern, between the ledges off Sconticut Point and the North Ledges ; the I^liddle, between the North and Great Ledges ; and the Western, between Sandsi)it and Dumpling Rocks. All of these have from 4 to G fathoms in them. Withm arc 1 an- dauarara Harbour, ou the western side, wherein are from 16 to 10 feet water ; (."lark s n m ,'■ ?••;■■■ l^i -■'1 120 BUZZAED'S BAT. 4:i: iiti I n m Cove, leading up to the south side of the town of New Bedford, and possessing a depth of Irom 18 to 10 feet, over a hard bottom ; and the outer and inner harbours of New liedford proper, the former consisting of the space between Clark's Point and Egg Ishmds and Flat, up to Fort Flat and Palmer's Island, and having soundings in it ranging from 15 to 24 feet, also over a hard bottom, and the latter of the space inside Palmer's Island and between the towns of New Bedford and Fairhaven, over the greater part of which, however, are but from 9 to 12 feet, except in the pool immediately off Palmer's lighthouse, wherein are 3 and 4 fathoms. Vessels, therefore, under the charge of a pilot, may run up into the inner harbour and have not less than 16 feet at low water all the waj'. On the days of full and change, high water takes place at the entrance at 7h. 57m. The rise of the highest tide above the plane of reference ... 6*2 feet. Height of mean low water „ „ » ••• '8 „ Height of mean high water „ „ „ ... 4*5 ,, Mean rise and fall of tides 3*7 „ Mean rise and fall of spring tides 4'6 „ Mean rise and fall of neap „ 2'8 „ Mean duration of flood ) reckoning from middle of one ) 6h. 50m. Mean „ of ebb ) slack to middle of next ... ] 5h. 33m. Mean „ of slack Oh. 42m. The strength of the flood is about ^ of a mile an hour, and of the ebb about the same, except in the Western Channel, off the Dumpling Rocks, nhere it attains a rate of |^ to -^ a mile. It should be remembered that at the entrance the last of the flood and first of the ebb sets athwart the channels and over the various lodges, though at other times their direction is nearly the same as that of the channels themselves. The tides are sometimes very much forced down in the inner harbour by N.W. winds. From the soundings before given deduct -^^ of a foot for low spring tides, and If for storm tides. As before stated, (page 118) the fixed light on Dumpling Rocks is shown from the top of the keeper's dwelling-house at the height ot 42 feet; Clark's Point, also fixed, at an elevation of 57 feet; and that of Palmer's Island at the height of 32 feet, from a white building erected on the north-east e. i emity of the island, opposite the town. The former two are visible to a distance of 12 miles, but the last to not more than 9 miles. Clark's Point and Palmer's lights in range lead up to and through the Middle Channel clear of all dangers, passing, however, very close to the westward of the North Ledges. For strangers entering New Bedford it is safest to employ a pilot, but should they be imable to get one, then it would be advisable for them to run in by the Eastern Channel, for which purpose, when up with the entrance as directed on page 119, bring the tall white beacon on the eastern side of the entrance to the iimer harbour in range Avith the very high dark spire in Fairhaven, and steer for them N. \ W., passing be- tween the buoys on Mosher Ledge and Henrietta and Packet Rocks, on the starboard, and those on the North Ledges, and Old Bartlemy, on the port haiid, up to Butler's Flat, the buoy on the edge of which lies f of a mile north-eastward of Clark's Point lighthouse, and must also be passed on the left hand. Now bring Palmer's light in range with a tall factory chimney (Wamsutta),* nearly N.N.W., steer for them, and pass in the best (16 feet) water between Butler's Flat and Egg Flat beacon up to near the southern end of Palmer's Island, or, anchor in from 16 to 20 feet to the westward of the beacon. From the south end of Palmer's Island steer towards the ends of Fair- haven wharves until half way between them and Palmer's light, then haul up towards the most northern spire in New Bedford, and anchor near the town in 8 or 9 feet at low water of spring tides. Those at all acquainted mostly use the Western Channel, who, in rimning in from the southward and westward, give the bell buoy off the Hen-and-Chickens, and the hlack buoy on Mushaum Ledge, a good berth on the port hand, as already directed, steering N E. by N. towards Dumpling liglithouse,t and when Mushaum Point bears * Wamsutta factory is a large stone building, with a very tall chimney on its eastern side ; it is /n the northern part of tlie town of New Bedford, and may be seen over Fairhaven Bridge. t About midway between Srushaum Point and the Dumpling Rock is a small patch with only one foot over its shallowest part, which is marked by a buoy. Close-to all around there are i fathoms. w. tot betv Wh Clai shot ig a depth rs of New and Egg lings in it )ace inside ,he greater idiiitely off the charge low water h. 57m. I. I. 1. ;the sfune, ate of \ to d and first ther times e tides are From the lor storm I from the 30 fixed, at et, IVom a the town, •re than 9 he Middle the North lid they be ! Eastern 119, bring r in range issing be- starboard, 3, up to [)f Clark's ler's light hem, and ip to near westward of Fair- ) towards .'et at low ; in from and the directed, lint bears iidu ; it is 1 only one fathoms. BUZZAE B.AT. eaxiwnrd Wk \ the lighthouse, ai 'hey advance, so as f' pas-* iirdoftht ight. niles, until .1(1 Inez ,i>ys a '•on on f I touth- vVamsuttw (actory W. by S., bring White Rock open a ship's Icii to the northward, gradually keeping the rod; >re open a between the Sundspit and Dumpling Rock but , and \ ot mii^' «'a When Dumpling light boars W. by N. they steer N.E. by N. n. Clark's light is in range with Palmer's light, leaving Middle Ledj; short distance to the westward ; then N. by E., tiearly, towards the I west end of Egg Island Fhits, till Palmer's light conies in a line wit chimney, then proceed as directed in the previous paragraph. If using this channel in the night-time pass Mushaum Point with Dumpling and Clark's Points Lights in one, and when you are a mile from the Dumpling Light, steer N.E. \ N. until it bears W.N, W., then steer past it, leaving it \ of a mile to the west- ward, and follow the directions already given. To run through the Middle Channel, keep Palmer's light a handspike's length open eastward of Clark's Point light, about N. \ W., and you will pass up in the best water, between Great Ledge on the western side, and the North Ledges on the eastern. When \\ mile from Clarli's Point light, the beacon on Egg Island Flats will bear N. by E., nearly ; steer for it until Palmer's light and tlie chimney of Wamsutta Factory are in line, when you will be near Butler's Flat buoy, and may pass up to New Bedford as before. MATTAPOISET.— Sconticut Neck, on the eastern side of the harbour of New Bed- ford, and West Island, form also the western side of a shallow bay, in which at present there is no place of any importance. Mattapoiset Neck, the next projection of the land to the north-eastward, and Angelica Point, constitute the western and eastern sides of Mattapoiset Harbour, v.'hicli runs in about 2 miles north-westward, and has a depth decreasing from 5 and 4 fathoms at its entrau(;e, to 3, 2, 2\, \\, and 1 fathom at its head, abreast the wharves of the town. On Ned's Point, about a mile before you com© to Mattapoiset, on the north-eastern side of the harbour, there is a white building sur- mounted by a black lantern, from which a fixed light is shown at an altitude of 43 feefc above the level of the sea, visible to the distance of 11 miles. From this lighthouse the northern entrance to Wood's Hole bears S, by E. f E., 8-| miles ; the spindle on the Cormorant Rock S. \ W., nearly 3 niiles ; the buoy on Nye's Ledge S. by E. f E., 2^ miles ; the buoy on the S.E. point of Mattapoiset Ledge S. f E., 1^ miles ; the buoy on the N.W. part of Mattapoiset Ledge S. \ W., about 1^ mile ; and the buoy on the Snow Rock S. by E., nearly |^ of a mile. Mattapoiset is said to be a good harbour for small vessels, and easy of access. When bound for this place, before coming up with West Island, bring Bird Island Light to bear N.E. by N., and run for it until the light on Ned's Point bears N.N.W. \ W., when you may haul up N.W. by N. In running this course, you will pass a white buoy with two black stripes on it, lying on the middle of Nye's Ledge in 2\ fathoms ; this ledge is a quarter of a mile across, has not more than 8 feet on some parts of it, and must be lelt on the port hand. Sailing on in this course, a black buoy will be passed also on the port hand ; this lies on the S.E. part of Mattapoiset Ledge, in 2^ fathoms. You will next pass two buoys, one on your starboard hand, and the other on your port side ; the latter on the east side of the Sinking Ledge, in 3 fathoms, and the former on the side of the Snow Rock, in 2^ fathoms. Over the Snow Rock are 8j feet. Keep mid-way between them, and when Ned's Point Light bears East you may anchor in 2 or 2 1 lathoms water, good bottom. Besides these buoys are two others : one is moored about N.E. from the Snow Rock in 3 fathoms, by the side of Barstow Rock ; the other on the extremity of Ned's Point, in 2 fathoms. SIPPICAN HARBOUR, 3 miles north-eastward of Mattapoiset, has its entrance between Charles' Neck and Bobell Rock on the western, and Sippican Neck and Bird Island on the eastern side. It thence runs in N. by W. | W., 3 miles, the deepest water, 13 to 21 feet, first being found along the eastern, and afterwards along the western shore, passingon the west side of a small island lying nearly in mid-channel, up to Sippican, where are irom 7 to 10 feet. Bird Island is smill, only 5 or 6 feet above the level of the sea, and has upon it a lighthouse, which is 29 feet high, and shows a light revolving every 1^ minute, at the height of 35 feet, visible to the distance of 10 miles. From the north entrance of Quick's Hole this light bears N.W. by N., li miles, and from the north entrance of Wood's Hole N. \ E., 9 miles. To run up to Sippican, a stranger should obtain the aid of a pilot. c. t>- j WAREHAM.— The entrance of Warehara River is Z\ miles northward of Bird I 1! 122 BUZZARD'S BAT. m-v Ijl''-,, m VVi: Island, and in the north-west corner of tlie head of Buzzard's Bay. The town is about 2 inil(>s within the river, but only small vessels ascend to it under the guidance of local knowledge, there being but 9 and 6 feet, and perhaps less, water in the channel at low tide. The harbour should only be attempted in the daytime, when you pass up leaving the black buoys on the port hand and the red ones on the starboard. SANDWICH HAKlJOUlt.— The little and shallow harbours of Back River, Monu- met River, and Cohasset are frequented by small vessels only, and these go in under the pilotage of persons acquainted with the navigation. They are situated in the north- east corner of the head of Jiuzzard's Bay, and the deepest chaimel to tnem lies almost close along the northern shore of Wing's or Wenauniet Neck, nearly up to Toby's Island, where the depths are irom 2 to S^ fathoms. Going into Back lliver Harbour by the chainiel between Toby's and Marshne Islands, it should be remembered that from the former a ridge of shoal water extends over towards the latter, whereon are only 6 to 9 feet. Having passed over this ridge, you will have from 15 to 20 feet water, which depth you will maintain for a short distance, and then come up with a ridge of hard sand above a cable's length broad, also with only 6 or 9 feet water over it ; after this is passed there will be from 3 to 3| fathoms quite \ip to the harbour's mouth. Bound to jMonumet or Cohasset Harbour, the best water, as before stated, runs along the northern side of Wing's Neck till nearly up with Toby's Island, and then turns to the northward towards Tempos Knob Point, and afterwards to the north-eastward, passing on the western side of Marshne and Hog Islands. Northward of the latter island the water gradually shoalens from 12 feet as you approach either harbour. The fixed light on the extremity of Wing's Keck has been described on page 118. On the eastern shore of Buzzard's Bay, proceeding from Wing's Neck southward, are the harbours of Red Brook, between Wing's Neck and Scraggy Neck ; Cataumut, immediately southward of Scraggy Neck ; Wild Harbour, separated from the former only by a small peninsula; Hog Island Harbour, nearly 2 miles further southward; Quamquisset Harbour, 4 miles southward of Hog Island Harbour : all capable of accommodating the small coasting craft which frequent the neighbourhood. The shore of Scraggy Neck, and also that about Hog Island Harbour, and between it and Quam- quisset, should have a wide berth given it, if not bound to one of these places, because there are several very shallow spits and some detached rocks extending from and lying oft" it, in some places, to and at the distance of one mile, or nearly so. Wood's Hole, between Naushon Island and the main, has been described on page 116. Wcpecket Island, ^c. — When making ibr the northern entrance of Wood's Hole, be careful to avoid the shoal ground around Wepecket Island, and the rocks north- eastward of it. The island is small and lies about \ of a mile off Naushon, being separated therefrom by a narrow but deep channel, and 8i miles nearly £.S.E. from Dumpling lighthouse, on the opposite side of the bay. Abi>ut | a mile north-eastwiU'd from the island there is a spot of 6 feet water, connected to the shoal which surrounds the island by depths of frgm 9 to 12 feet. And at 1^ mile from it in the same direc- tion lies a small rock, named the Wepecket Rock, which has but one foot of water over it, and is steep-to on all sides ; it is marked by a buoy striped horizontally, and may, therefore, be passed on either side at a moderate berth. Westi'oet — Between the Hen and Chickens and Saughkonnet Point, the coast forms a curve, at the head of which is the entrance to Westport, a place of but little importance, and frequented only by small vessels under the charge of locat ex- perience. In the bay thus formed are several rocky heads, the positions of which can be best understood by reference to the chart, but as they lie at a good distance from the shore, large vessels in particular shoidd carefully avoid getting to the nortliward of an imaginary line joining the Hen and Chickens and the rocks otf Saughkonnet Point. We believe the authorities have authorized the erection of a lighthouse on the Point of Rocks, on the west side of the entrance to Weatport. SAirCHXONN'BT RIV£R. — The entrance to this river is between Saughkonnet Point and Sachuest Point, on Rhode Island, the course and distance to it from a posi- tion about a mile south-westward of No Man's Land is N.W. 22 miles, and from a similar position off the south-east end ol" BU)ck Island N.E. 23 miles. A shoal flat extends \ a mile south-westward of Saughkonnet Point, upon which are several large rocks always above water, and f of a mile S. by W. from Sachuest Point lies the Cor- morant Rock with 6 and 7 fathoms close-to all round ; but there is a shallow bank of 3 and 4 fathoms \ a mile westward of it. To avoid these dangers shape a course mid- NEWPOET. 123 \ is about ;e oC local lel at low p leaving >r, Monu- > in under he north- es almost ;o Toby's Harbour eied that ereon are to 20 feet up with a /^ater over harbour's •re stated, ilaiid, and ds to the lorthward ich either re 118. juthward, Jataumut, lie tormer uthward ; lapable of The shoro [id Quam- s, because and lying )d's Hole, id's Hole, ks north- on, being 5.E. from eastward urrounds me direc- ater over and uiay, >he coast L-e of but local ex- ivhich can from the ird of ail et Point. Point of ghkonnet m a posi- id from a shoal flat eral large the Cor- V bank of urso mid- way between the two points, steering N. by E. Keep near the middle of the river, and the dei)th will gradually decrease JVom 10 to 8, (5, 4, and 3 fathoms as you advance upwards. When about 3 miles within its mouth yon may anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms abreast Gray's Landing, or you may proceed 3 J miles further to just above Foglaiid Point and hring-to in a similar jdoptli opposite Corey's Wharf. Fogland Point projects nearly half-channel over towards the western or Jlhode Island shore, and thus reduces the width of the river to | of a mile. From this latter anchorage there is water com- munication with Fall River, juid Tnuiitcm, and round the north end of Ilhode Island with Bristol, Providence, Pautuxet, Warwick, Gretaiwich, Wickford, or Newport. WBIVPORT, or RiroUE Island llAHBoun, has its entrance 6 miles westward of Paughkonnet River, and 7 miles N.E. f E. from Point Judith, between Rrenton's Reef and Reaver Tail, which are 1:^ mile apart, the intervening depths ranging from 10 to 20 fathoms. Thence the channel runs in 3 miles north-e;istward to abreast the town of Newport, and is nowhere less than |a mile in width, nor under 10 lathoms in depth. Fronting the town and separated from it by a narrow passage only :, of a mile wide and from 12 to 21 feet deep, is an elongated island, named Goat Islai d, having a shoal spit* extending from each end, the extremities of which are marked by buoys, and a battery near its centre. On a projecting point on the southern shore of the har- bour is Fort Adams, midway between which and Goat Island good anchorage may be had in from 5 to 7 fathoms, soft bottom. Rose Island, with its battery, is situated near the middle of the harhour, and has shoal water extending a considerable distance from its eastern and northern sides. North-eastward of Rose Island is Coaster's Har- bour Island, with the Gull Rocks between ; on eaidi side of these rocks there is a channel 150 fathoms wide and 5 and 7 fathoms deep, and anchorage in 4 or 6 fathoms can be had between them and the town, the best passay^e to which is between Rose and Goat Islands. Abreast the ferry on the western or Conanicut slmre of the harbour there is likewise good anchorage in from 5 to 9 fathoms, soft bottom. The best anchorage, however, is within and nearer to the Goat Island side than to that of Rhode Island, as the other parts of the harbour are grassy, and, therefore, apt to choke tlie anchors. High water takes place here at 7h. 45!n. on the days of lull and change of the moon ; spring tides rise 4^, and neaps 3 feet. The duration of the flood averages Oh. 21m., and that of the ebb 6h. 3m , reckoned from the middle of the stand at low water to the middle of the stand at high water ; the mean duration of the stand, or still water, is 23 minutes. Bvenions Reef ami LigJdvessel. — Brenton's Reef extends | of a mile S.S.W.-ward from the eastern point of entrance of Newport Harbour, aiul shows itself by breakers with even a slight motion of tiie sea; some portions of it are bare at low water. Its south-west extreme is marked by a buoy, which must be left on the starboard hand going in. The Seal Rocks are ^ a mile eastward of Brenton's Reef, but do not extend so far from the land. Brenton's Reef Lightvessel is moored in 13 fathoms, about 5 a mile S.S.W. from the reef, with Point Judith liglithouse S.W. by W. | W. ; Beaver Tail N.W. ; and Castle Hill Point N. by E. The vessel is of a straw colour, with "Brenton's Reef" painted on each quarter, and shows two fixed lights at the height of 40 and 50 feet above the level of the sea, visible 12 miles. A fog-bell and fog-horn are sounded during thick weather every alternate five minutes. Beaver Tail tonus the south point of Commicut Island, and the west point of entrance of Newport Harbour, and has a lighthouse upon it consisting of a square granite tower 49 feet high, attached to the south-east angle of the keei)er's dwelling, and exhibiting a fixed light 82 feet above the level of the sea, visible 14 miles. To warn vessels of theif position a whistle is blown during I'oggy weather. _ About 300 yards S.S.W. from tiit; lighthouse is a sunken rock, named the Newtown, which becomes awash, and, causes the sea to break over it with any swell, and is marked by a buoy moored in 5 fathoms off its southern side. On one of the Lime Rucks, near the south shore of the harbour, opposite the south end of Goat Island, there is a small fixed light, 30 feet high, and visible to the distance of 11 miles in clear weather. It serves as a guide to vessels proceeding to the wharves of the town through the channel between tlie Lime Rocks and the buoy on tiie edge of the spit extending from the south end of Goat Island, wherein are from 12 to 18 feet water. . * A breakwater has been constructed upon the northernmost spit ; it runs parallel to the shore of N?wno.rt, and affords protection to vcsiels ly':ig])etween it and the town. 124 PEOVIDENCE EIVEE. !';*( it ( 'k ''- V ! On the north end of the hreaJcvmter, extendln keeper's dwelling, at an altitude of 36 feet, and visible to the distance of 10 miles ; this light is intended as a guide to vessels proceeding north-eastward up to Fall River (u- Taunlon, and n)ust be loll on tho port, and the beacon on the opposite, or north end of Rhode Island, on the starboard hand. PROvinENCE River. — Irom Newport Harbour there are two passages to Providence River, one on the eastern side of Prudence and Patience Island, and the other on their western side, between the latter island and Warwick Neck. The usual course is, liaving quitted N«?wport Harbour either by the channel westward of Rose Island, or by one of those between it and Coaster's Harbour Island, to leave tlie buoy on the Triangle Rock on the starboard hand, and steer towards the spindle on Half-way Rock, which may be passed on either side. In this course, give the shore of Oonld Island a good berth, and when steering towards Hope Island give the north point of Conanicut Island also a good berth. Hope Island lies nearly in the middle of the channel between Prudence Island and tho western mainland, and has a good passage on either side; give its north-east end a small berth. You now shape a course towards Warwick Neck, whereon there is a tower, attached to tho south end of the keeper's house, from wl.ich a fixed light ia shown at the height of 51 feet above tho level of tho sea, visible 14 miles. d, is also Harbour: , be lelt to hicli may nning otf the north Coaster's Triangle nd, bring irport will I'd Sound, and steer harbour's rses must ', in order on to the :ail light- J between :auk light !stern side out N. by 1 gravelly lorthward From off A. Should ; from the ., and run )f ar about luid shape lid all fear le Bottom E. by E. lal ground channel to go up ern side iiiilding, 10 miles. there is titude of ;juide to ell on tho ard hand. ovidence on their s, having )y one of i^ie Hock 1 nwiy he uTth.and id also n 'rudenco give its whereon h a fixed les. NAERAGANSETT BAT. 125 South-westward of Warwick Neck light you will perceive a beacon, erected upon .i rock situated in about mid-channel, which can be passed on either side, hauling up westward into Greenwich Bay, or northward into Warwick Harbour. Bound to Providence River, leave Warwick Neck to port, steering between it and Patience Island, and when the light bears West, steer towards Nayat Point, on the eastern side of entrance to Providence River. Upon Nayat Point a white square brick tower 31 feet high has been erected, from which a fixed light is exhibited at an elevation of 45 feet, visible 11 or 12 miles; a rocky shoal extends southwardand westward about 200 yards from the point. Nearly opposite Nayat Point is Connimicut Point with its sandspit and beacon.* In sailing from Warwick light towards Nayat Point, you leave the buoy on Providence Point, tlie north Point of Prudence Island, on the starboard hand, and run so far to the eastward as to bring Prudence Island to bear South, by which you leave the MidJewp(trt, page 12 1. Give the lighthouse a good berth on your starboard hand to clear tiie Newtown Kock, and keep along at a moderate dis- tance otf the Conanicut Island shore, so as to avoid the Whale Rock and Jones' Ledge, both of which are steep-to all round, and lie off the western or mainland shore, the former at the distance of 400 fathoms, with Beaver Tail lighthouse bearing E. J- N., 1^ mile, atid the latter, on which are only or 7 feet, about 350 fathoms Irom Watson's Pier, and N.W. 1 mile from the lighthouse. Anchorage may be had wherever con- venient, but if intending to go into Dutch Ishir.d Harbour, run up till within \ a mile of the lighthouse on the south point of that island, and then haul in north-eastward, keeping at from 1 to 2 cables' lengths from its eastern side, as a fiat runs olf above \ of a mile from the shore ot Conanicut Islai\d. WicKFOui) is a small harbour on tho western aide of Narragansett Bay, opposite tho north end of Conanicut Island, and 6 miles within Dutch Island lighthouse. On Poplar Point, tho south point of entrance, a fixed light is shown from the top of the keeper's dwelling; it is 61 feet above the level of the sea, aiid visible to the distance of 12 miles. In sailing towards Wickford the widest chaimel is on the west side of Dutch Island; thence you may pass cm either side of Fox Island up to Poplar Point. Although the rocks and shoals in\he bay and off the harbour's cntrunco are marked by buoys or spindles, still it would be safer to employ a pilot. • ThU Is ft boncoii ll^lit. 'I'"' '""ucon con.xl«t» of wood. i«|nar«' In Miape, and palnti-d wtilfe.witu a ditiii'llf am\ vane on its Hununit pointing ti. ilie direction ol tlic chunii.l. It Is, liowevi-r. liatilt- to l)i> swipt awny tty tlic U-v, b.< wits tlie caio lu the early part of 1860; at »uoli times vcMols will do well tu give the iioiiit a wide bcrtli. 'A 1 ■J- 126 . BLOCK ISLAND. W Pi If 'f, ft*' r; Iff Point Jttdith Is said to appear like a nail's head, malving rather bold. It may be further distiiiufuished by a white stone building, 4G feet high, on which is a lantern 67 feet above the level of the sea, showing a light revolving every 15"; it cannot, there- fore, be mistaken for that on Conanicut Island. Between this point and Block Island there are from 5 to 24 fathoms. . BKOCX IS^bAUD lies nearly In the middle of the entrance to Long Island Sound, and is about 5 miles long from north to south, and 3 miles broad at the southern end, whence to the northern extremity of the island it tapers to a point. It is of moderate height, and has a white lighthouse, with keeper's dwelling attached, upon its northern extremity, which shows a fixed light at CO^ feet above the sea, visible 13 miles. Be- tween the bearings, from the light, of E. 35° S., by the south, and S. 25° W., it is hidden by the elevated parts of the island, but it may be seen in all other directions. A depth of 6 and 7 fathoms will be found at a short distance off all round the island, except at its noi'thern extremity, where a shoal runs off about a mile to the northward, which has 7 to 10 feet upon it at low water, and 5 to 10 fathoms close-to all round. To avoid this shoal, you shovdd not approach the lighthouse nearer than a distance of 2 miles ; other marks are, — Old Harbour Point open of Claj- 1 lead (the projecting points on the east side of the island), to clear its eastern side ; or Point Judith Lighthouse nothing to the northward of N.E. to clear its western edge. Tliis shoal is very dangerous to approach, as the tide sets across it with considerable strength. At about 2^ miles to the south-westward of Block Island is the Sotith-ivest Ledge, •which is Ij miles in length, in a N.E. and S.W. direction, and has on its shoalest part 5 fathoms, rocky bottom. Upon it in blowing weather from seaward the sea breaks heavily. The marks lor it are the oast point on the south side of the island just opeu with the middle point, and Block Island lighthouse N.E. ^ N. Direct ion's for approac/iinff Block Island, Sfc. — In approaching the south shoal of J^antucket, the tide runs swiftly, but regularly, to the N.E. and S.W. Near this shoal to the southward, in 25 or 30 iathoms, there is a fine bhick and white sand ; to the eastward, in the same depth, there is coarse sand, gravel, and shells. Near the shoal the water appears very light coloured, the bottom being of black and white sand, with green shells. Nine or ten leagues to the westward of this shoal, in 30 or 40 fathoms, there is a black mud of a shining smooth quality, and here lies the Tuckernuck Channel. If, when coming from sea, you should fall into Block Island Channel, you will find from 54 to 70 fathoms, soft muddy bottom. It is most likely that you will first gain ground in latitude 40^, and in standing to the northward, may shoalen your water to yo fathoms ; thence, when in sight of Block Island, you will have from 25 to 20 fathoms, Bandy bottom. With Block Island bearing North, 4 or 5 leagues distant, yo\i cannot sec any land to the northward or eastward : but on ai)proacliing the island, you will see Montauk Point with its lifihthouse, to the westward, imiking as a long low point. In sailing to the W.S.W. you will make iu> romarkahle land on Long Island, .as its broken land apjiears at a distance like ishuids. You will have 20 or 22 fathoms out of sight of land, sandy bottom in some, and clay in other places. The charts will he the best guide to soundings. To the southward of No Man's Island, there iscoarsesand, like gravel stotu's, in 2i> and 25 fiithoms, and S.S.W. from it, in 2S or 30 fathoms, coarse red sand. S.S.E. from Block Island, in what is termed Block Island Channel, there are 30 and 40 fathoms, with oazy bottom; but, shoaling the water to 25 or 20 fathoms, you will find co,irsi> sand In approMching the south sid(! ol' Hlock Island, from t]\e southward, the water »hoalens gr.idually. When the island heais (rom N.W. to N. by W. the bottom is mud ; this is co\nmoiily named IJlock Island Channel. Tliis island apj)ears high and round as you come I'nun the southward ; and, if IVoni the S.I]., it is like a saddle, low in the iniddle and high at eai'li end, though hij,du'sL to the southward. Lo frc bn 1 by an dit 127 It may be lantern 67 lot, tliere- )ck Island nd Sound, thern end, i" moderate i nortliorn liles. Be- ' W., it is ections. the island, lorthward, ound. To of 2 miles ; on the east iini.E. } N. 2i miles from the Gull light, and likewise the Race Bad', situated half a mile south-west of Race Point, the west end of Fisher's Island, which rock hat* an iron spindle upon it. We believe that a buoy is placed on or near the Cerberus Sho;d, and another on the Valiant I'ock. Having passed through the Race or Main Channel yon will have fairly entered Long Island Sound. Coming in between Block Island and Montauk Point, and when approaching the latter, i\w Montauk sh(Htl,\\\\K\\ brcuks in heavy weather from seaward, and has 4 I'athoms over it, should be avoided; its position is with Montank light N. by W. dis- tance 2^ miles. About 3 miles south-westward of the S.W. end of Block Island there is a rocky ledge over which the sea also breaks in heavy weather I'roin seaward, but the depths upoi it are not less than 5 and (5 fathoms. Being in 7 fathoms gravelly bott oin w ith Montauk light S.W. by S. distant 2 miles, a N.W. \ W. course for 13 m mti iles will bring you up to Gull Island light, Icaviiii,' the shallow Hat extending \ of .. le Irom the north side <.f Montaidv Point, the Washington shoal, nwA the Shar/titnir/ Urrf, trlie hitter marked by an iron bell boat, on your port hand, and the Cci-hcrus Shoal; mentioned in the previous paragraph, on your starboard side. The shoalest spot of the Washington Shoal, 12 feet, is with :\lontank light 2i miles distant on a S.K. 1 E. bearing, and thi.t of the Shagwong Reef with the same building S.E. ^ S. ',V\ miles ; therefore, when tacking wes tward iVom tlu' ab(»ve N.W. \ W. course, ,'\!oii" t luk light should not be brought eastward of S.S.E. A K.. as hmg as you are within 'U miles from it. But if desirous of passing outside the Cerberus Slioal, then, from the foregoing pos by N., or wi ition with Montauk light S.W. by S., 2 miles, steer with the ebb N.W. th the ilood more northerly, for 1[ miles, and afterwards W. by N. \ N., miles towards tJull Island, when you may proceed as bel'ore directed With (Jull Island light bearing South distant half a mile, the course and distnnee to where KalUner's Islandflashing light bears North 51 miles, are W. ,i S. \\\ ^ 'les. U^iou this course, und when through the Race, you will Bee to the nortiiward th 'tart- 5 ;J 128 LONG ISLAND SOUND. m lU! m iii Zc<^ JSee/" Uglitvessel, which is moored off the south end of that extensive reef, and shows two fixed lights. About 6 miles further westward is Haichett's Reef, which is joined by a Hat of 2| fathoms to the sand extending nearly 2 miles southward from the mouth of Connecticut River. Still further westward is the commencement of the Loiig Sand Shoal, a narrow sand, with a lightvessel showing a fixed light moored in 1\ fathoms near the middle of its south side ; it runs nearly parallel to the northern shore for a distance of 5 miles, with only G, 9, and 15 feet over it, and as it lies upon the average 2^ miles therefrom, great caution is required to avoid it when standing towards that shore. These dangers are buoyed, so that with the assistance of the lightvessel and the fixed light on the west point of entrance of Connecticut lliver, ves- sels will be enabled with care to pass clear of them; the depth of 22 fathoms is sufficiently near to approach them in foggy weather. From the west end of Long Sand Shoal to Falkner's Island, a distance of 9 J miles, there is no outlying danger beyond 1^ mile from shore, except the rocks around Falkner's Island and Klmherley s Reef, which is small, has only 10 feet over it, and lies 3 miles from the coast, with Falkner's light about W. \ S., 1^ mile. The foregoing are the most prominent objects and dangers met with in tacking to the northward-from the before-mentioned (W. 5 S.) course; the first on the port hand is Plum Island, the northern shore of which should have a berth of at least half a mile to avoid a 9-feet rock l^'ing off it; the light on the west end of this island revolves once in every 30 seconds. About halfway between Plum Island light and the fixed one on Horton's Point, 12 miles further westward, a shoal of 6 feet fronts the small bay between Terry's and Rocky points ; a berth of about one mile should, therefore, be given to the land in its vicinity to go clear of it. Also, immediately westward of Ilorton Point, and thence to a considerable distance, a shoal extends from the land above a mile, which in some parts has but 3, 6, and 9 feet over it. With Falkner's Island light bearing North 5| miles the coiirse and distance thence to the lightship on the south side of the Middle Ground, are VV. \ S., 21 miles. Leav- ing this track and bei.t: ";^ towards the northern shore, a too near approach should not be made thereto, especially between Falkner's Island and New Haven fixed light, for at 51 miles westward of the former are the East Ledr/c, Browit's Reef, &c., lying over 2 miles from the mainland, and westward of them is Brarford Reef\\\t\\ a beacon upon it. The light on the east side of New Haven entrance is a fixed one, and that on Stratibrd Point, nearly 11 miles south-westward, revolves once in every 1,^ minute. Likewise when approaching the Long Island shore, a berth of at least 2 miles should be given it, for in several places between Horton Point and the fixed light on Old Field Point shoal water of 6 and 12 feet extends off 1 and If miles. The Middle Ground lightvessel lies ^ of a mile south-west of the shallowest (2 feet) spot of that sho^l, and exhibits two fixed lights. From the south side of the Middle Ground or Stratford Point lightvessel steer W. \ S. 18 miles, or from a berth 2^ miles South from Stratford Point steer \V. by S. \ S., about 19 miles, you will then have Lloyd's Point distant 2 miles on a southerly bear- ing. In this course the prominent dangers and objects on the Connecticut shore, when clear of the buoy on the north end of the Middle Ground, are, the shallow flat extending 1^ mile from the land immediately westward of Stratford lighthouse; the fixed red light at the entrance of Bridgeport; the fixed light on Fairweather Island, at the en- trance to Black Rock Harbour ; the Fairfield Bar or PenfiehVs Reef and tlie shallows surrounding Pino Creek Point, the former of which extends south-eastward 1^ mile from Shoal Point, and has a beacon and buoys near its outer edge, which may be avoided by not bringing Stratford Point light to bear anything eastward of E.N.E. while within 8 miles from it ; the shoals and rocks fronting the Norwalk Islands to the dis- tance of nearly 1^ mile off the easternmost of the group; and the revolving red and white light on Sheffield Island, the westernmost of the Norwalk Isles. Bu(fd'ft Reef, a snuill spot of 4 fathoms, lies lij mile S.VV. ^ S. from Sheffield Island light; this, and the reef running about the same distance westward from the said light, will require care to avoid when nearing the coast hereabout. On the suuthern shore, westward of Old Field Point, there is nothing in the way of vessels if a berth of I'j mile be given to the land, until abreast the fixed light on Eaton's Neck, where, besides the shoal ex- tending nearly a mile from the lighthouse point, the extremity of which has a buoy off it, there is a small rocky patch of 19 feet, also marked by a buoy, lying at IJ mile N. by W. I W. from the light, with deep water cloae-to all round. Lloyd's Point, tlio next westward of Eaton's, should likewise have a berth of at least | of a mile. With Lloyd's Point South distant 2 miles, the course and distuncu towards the fucd LONa ISLAND SOUND. 120 reef, and which is from the \t of the loored ia northern lies upon standing ce of the iver, ves- ifficiently Shoal to mile from 1 is small, t W. i S., t with in e first on srth of at id of this land light feet fronts lie should, [mediately ends from nee thence es. Leav- should not light, for lying over jiicon upon [nd that on \ minute, iles should Old Field Ground |sho^l, and deer W. ^ |y S. i S.. Iierly hear- lore, when extending fixed red at the en- shallows Jid H niile Ihe iivoidi'd .E. while Ito the dis- |g red and [W'-y Reef, Ight; this, Vill require Vstward of I he given shoal ex- la buoy off \\ mile N. |*oint, tlio e. the fixed light on Execution Hocks are W.S.W. 12 miles, passing on your starboard band the Cow Rocks lying nearlj^ a mile off Shippan's Point, and the fixed light on Groat Cap- tain's Island; and on your port hand the Centre Idand Hcef, running one mile off from the point next westward of Lloyd's, and the shoals olF Oak Neck, Matinicock, and Prospect Points. The Execution Rocks occupy a position in the fairway of the Sound, and must be left on the starboard hand, and a S.VV. course for 3| miles steered, which will bring ii^ou up to the south end of City Island, passing Hart Island, the south point of which las 5 fathoms at a short distance off, on its eastern side ; and leaving on your port hand the Old Hen and the broad fiat which runs oft' above half a mile from the shore immediately eastward of Sand's Point, the revolving light on Sand's Point, the shal- lows off the said lighthouse, the Oangway Rock buoy, and the buoy on the edge of the Stepping Stones. From the south end of City Island keep in mid-channel, steering S. by W. till up m ■with Throg's Point fixed light, at the eastern entrance to the East River. Hence through Hell Gate to New York a vessel should preserve the middle of the river, passing northward of the Two Brothers, round northward and westward of Table »)r Great Mill Rock in Hell Gate, and through the channel east or west of IJlackwell's Island, according to circumstances. The confined nature of tlie channel, togeUior with the influence of winds and tides, all the way I'rom the Execution Rocks to Now York, make it advisable at all times to employ a pilot. Tides. — Between Block Island and Point Judith high water takes place on the full and change of the moon at 7h. 31m. ; springs rise 3j and neaps 2] loc't; and the average duration of the flood is 6h. 18m., that of the ebb being (5h. 6in. lloioabout, during the first quarter of the flood, the direction of the stream by compass is N. \ W. and the rate 1 mile por hour ; during the second, about N.N.W. IJ mile ; in the third W. by S. 1 mile ; and during the last quarter, S.VV. by W. about \ a mile an hour : the first and last quarters of the ebb run about E. by N., the second and third E. 4 N. and W. f S. respectively ; the greatest velocity, during the second quarter, is 2.j miles, and the least, during the last quarter, | of a mile an hour. Between Block Island and Montauk Point it is high water at 7h. 58m. ; springs rise 2f, and neaps If leet; the mean duration of the flood is (3h. 20m., and of the ebb 6h. 5m. The direction of the flood varies from W.N.VV. \ N. at its early part, to N.W. by N. near its termination, and that of the ebb from E. by N. at its connneiicement to about S.E. by S. at the latter part. The velocity of the former ranges between \ a mile an hour in the first quarter, to \\ in the third ; the rate of the ebb is gioatest during the second quarter, when it attains to l^^y mile, and least during the la; t quarter, at which time it does not exceed \ of a mile au hour. In the Race, between Little Gull Island and Fisher's Island, it is high water at 9h. 38m.; springs range 2|, and neaps 2:^ feet. The flood or in-going stream continues for about 6 hours, and the ebb for Gh. 20m., the former having a mean direction of about N.W. by W., with a velocity of from \-^q on the last, to ^^^ miles por hour upon the second quarter ; and the latter S.E. by E. 3 E., between l^^^ and 4 miles an hour, attaining its greatest rate during the third quarter. In the fairway of the Sound the direction of both flood and ebb is nearly that of the Bound itself, na'mely, W. \ S. and E. \ N. till nearly up with Lloyd's Neck, and tluii W.S.W. and E.N.E. to the Execution Rocks; hence to City Island about S.W. \ 8. and N.E. \ N., and from City Island to Throg's Neck S. by W. and N. by E. But as you approach the islands and shoals near either shore, their direction is of course varied according to circumstances, and strangers should, therefore, not attempt tlitj channels in and among them witliout the aid of local knowledge. The velocity of the flood is greatest between the Race and Long Sand Shoal, where it attains to a rato (.f from 1* to 2 miles an hour ; thence westward it gradually decreases till near the Execu- tion Rocks, where it does not exceed 1 mile, and at Throg's Neck it meets with the stream out of the East River, and an almost perfect stagnation is pro Mystic River, is 34 feet high and coloured white ; about 11 miles off, being shown at the height of 44 Morgan is Kouthwavd of it. and on the west side its light, a fixed one, nuiy of entrance to seen LONa ISLAND SOUND. 131 the tides lie sound otf New riner, in- ould lose le sucees- ssing on- how that jhange of I's Island b of Long the saino (stward of t Ledge, a ^, with 13 louse, and lonis. To E. by N. last trends I or ponds, w outlets ; I bo found of 10 and d and the and which J in length, dth where t there are idge of the ult of the the most are many jrocceding iver, West id change |)d is about the east- per hour, lid Sound, )f the sea, le keeper's Ites of the 1 sound, on jsterii side building let, a tixcu ly N. from lid on the shows a ll is rung jp channel Ihe sound, \A white ; ight of 4'1 feet. The light on the North Dumpling, an islet in the western entrance to the sound, W. by S. 3| miles from Eelgrass Lightvessel, is a red fixed light 70 feet high, ex- hibited from a white tower 25 feet high, and is, therefore, visible at a distance of 12 miles ; a bell is rung in foggy weather. Directions. — At the eastern entrance to Fisher's Island Sound a chain of isolated reefs, with from 3 to 6 fathoms between, forms a kind of curve from the east point of Fisher's Island to Watch Hill Point. There are many channels tlirough it, but the three principal are the Watch Hill Point, Lord's, and East Point Channels. When approaching, therefore, great caution should be exercised, particularly as the tide sets over the rocks with considerable strength. If to the eastward of Watch Hill Point and "bound through the sound, steer so as to give the point a berth of 2 cables' lengths to avoid the Gangway Rock and buoy ; you will thus leave the spindle on Watch Hill Reef 3 or 4 cables on the port hand; a W. f N. course should now be followed, giving the next point to Watch Hill, namely Napalree Point, a berth of 3 cables on your star- board side, in case the buoy marking the reef running from it should be driven from its position; as you proceed on this course the two spindles marking the rocks on each bide of Lord's Channel will be left to port, and that on Latimer's ]iQiii* should have a berth of ^ of a mile on yonv starboard hand. When nearlj' abreast Latimer's Reef, you will have on the opposite side of the channel the VVicopesset Reef, Seal, and Young's Rocks, consequently you should not approach the shore of Fisher's Island hereabout nearer than 3^ or 4 cables, though, we believe, Young's Rock, has a buoy off it. Continue on the above(W. f N.) course, leaving East Ckunp Islet on the port, and the the starboard side. As soon lis Ellis' spindle, which buoy and spindle on Ellis' Reef on is about li^ mile westward of Eeljj Lightvessel, bears North, distant 3^ cables' lengths, steer W. f S., passing on the north side of Dumpling Lighthouse ;t this will carry you out to the lightvessel oif the south end of Bartlett's Reef, and a fresh course can then be shaped up Long Island Sound. But if bound to New London continue as before — that is, W. | N., and you will probably pass over an 18 feet hard spot, just before you come abreast of Groton Long Point ; give this point and the buoy on the edge of the off-lay from it a good berth, and also the point next westward of it, off which there is a rock, with only 1 foot over it, at the distance of 2 cables' lengths. When the spindle on Seaflower Reel'J bears S.VV. by W., and the North and South and lengths. Hammocks or Dumplings are in range, the first will be distant 4 cables' the buoy on the Horse Shoe Reef§ wdlhea similar distance otf on your starboard side; from this position the New London Lighthouse will appear just open north of Smith's House N. W. by W. ^ W., a course that when followed will lead up to the former through Pine Island Channel. In following these directions notice, that between Watch Hill Point and Latimer's Beef, the last of the tide sets across the reefs which lie between Watch Hill Point and the east end of Fisher's Island. This set, on the obb particularly, must be allowed for. On the flood it is not so strong. Lord's Channel, on the eastern side of Wicopesset Islet, should not be attempted by a stranger, unless the leading mark, namely, Stonington Lighthouse, open a sail's breadth to the eastward of the hotel in the northern part of the town,|| can be clearly distinguished. When such is the case follow that direction, passing between the two spindles, giving the eastern one a berth of \\ cable's length, and when Watch Hill Po'int Lighthouse bears E. \ S. haul up W. | N., and proceed as before directed. East Point Channel, between Wicopesset Islet and Fisher's Island east point, is likewise not recommendable to a stranger i in it there arbonly from 15 to 18 feet water. The leading mark is Latimer's spindle in line with the centre and highest part of a * A rock lies \ oi a mile E. by S. from Latimer's Spiiulle, with only 3 feet upon it, wbich is marked by a buoy on its eiisteni side. t The North Dumpliiiy is bold-to, except on the east side, wliere a shoiil extends from it a cable a '^Tseatlower Reef lies '\ of a mile N.W. from North Dumpling Lighthouse, and being but of fmall extent may be cleared on either side by giving the spindle a berth of 2 cables. 4 Tli'e llorsj Shoe Ui-ef, nearly awash at low water, is li mile N. i W. of North Dumpling light, Rnd about I of a mile N'.K. by N. from .Sentlower Iteef. II The hotel is ft large white building with a cupola. Jk ml 132 LONG ISLAND SOUND. wood on Mason's Island, bearing about N.W. f N. ; this leads over or very near a sunken rock of 4 feet, which has a buoy on it to be left on the port hand going in. Having followed this line of direction till within 3^ cables of the spindle, steer W. | N. as before. Coming in from the westward, when the lightvessel off Bai'tlett's Reef bears North, distant nearly \ a mile, steer E. | N., and pass almost close-to on the north side of North Dumpling Lighthouse up to where the spindle on Ellis' Reef bears North, distant 3J cables' lengths. An E. f S. course will then lead out between Watch Hill Point and Reef, and by reversing the foregoing directions for passing through from th'e eastward, a vessel will be enabled to get out by one or other of the channels clear of the reefs at the eastern entrance of Fisher's Island Sound. Fisher's Island Sound is perfectly safe with these instructions, and is to be preferred, if bound to the eastward on the flood or westward with an ebb tide, to going through the Race, or to the south of Fisher's Island ; but it should not be attempted by strangers without a leading wind, and great attention should be paid to the lead. The assistance of a pilot is of course advisable. Little Nakbaganbett Bat, in the extreme eastern part of Fisher's Island Sound, is formed by the narrow tongue of low land running first westward from Watch Hill Point, and afterwards northward towards Stonington, but being occupied for the greater part of its area by a flat of hard sand, with only 2, 3, and 4 feet water upon it, none but the smallest craft can enter or pass through it and up the Pawcatuck River to Lottery or Pawcatuck Bridge. Stonington Habboue, on the western side of the town of that name, and on the north shore of Fisher's Island Sound, has a length of about 6 cables, and a breadth of 3^, with from 7 to 16 feet in it at low tide, and a fine breakwater, constructed by the Federal Government at an expense of 50,000 dollars, inside which there is a depth of 12 and 13 feet. On the days of full and change of the moon it is high water at 9h. 5m., the Mean duration of Flood ) Reckoning from the middle of one slack- ) 6h. 15ra, Mean duration of Ebb J water to the middle of the next ) 6 10 Mean duration of Slack-water 25 Height of mean High Water above the Plane of Reference 3ft. lOin. Height of mean Low Water 1 3 Rise of the highest Tides observed 4 7 Mean Rise and fall of Tides 2 7 Mean rise and fall of Neap Tides 2 6 Mean rise and fall of Spring Tides 3 The fixed light on the extreme point of land has been mentioned, as one of the lights in Fisher's Island Sound, on page 130. Bound into Stonington from the eastward, and having followed a W. f N. course from the Gangway Rock buoy, lying 300 yards ott' Watch Hill Point, then as soon as Napatree Point bears N.E by N., steer If.W. by W. towards the highest part of the wood on Mason's Island, until the beacon on the end of the breakwater, which is a white conical stone with a black barrel on the top, comes on with a large circular build- ing (an engine-house) at the inner end of the steam-boat wharf, bearing N. by E. ^ E.; haul up on this bearing, turn in dose round the breakwater, and anchor just far enough in to swing clear of it m 2 fathoms, mud. Smaller vessels can, wlien Napatree Point bears N.E. by N., run in with the break- water beacon in line with the easternmost white house on the north-west side of the harbour, N. by W. | W., passing over a sandy bank in 9 and 10 feet at low water, close to the west side of Bartlett's Reef,* and giving the lighthouse point a berth of a cable's length or more. If from the southward, and resolved to enter the sound by Lord's Channel, bring the hotel, before mentioned, open a sail's breadth westward of Stonington Lighthouse, which will carry you through Lord's Channel in 6 to 3^ fathoms water. Steer now north- westerly so as to clear the shoal water extending from Bartlett's Reef until the light bears N. by E,, when you may steer directly for the beacon on the end of the breakwater, into the harbour, * Bartlett's Reef lies \ a mile S.S.E. i S. from Stoninspton Lig'jt, and has but 4 and S feet upon it. LONG ISLAND SOUND. 133 ery near a going in. ^rW,|N. ars North, e of North distant 3^ Point and eastward, he reel's at preferred, 5 through strangers assistance nd Sound, ^atch Hill d for the r upon it, i Rivet to id on the breadth of ed by the a depth of iter at 9h. 15m, 10 25 lOin. 3 7 7 6 ! lights in N. course IS soon as art of the hich is a lar build- rE.AE.; A' enough \e break- de of the iter, close a cable's )ring the se, which w north- the light akwateri it upon It- Bound toStonington from the westward, steer as already diroctcd to wlioro the indle on Ellis Reef bears North, distant 3| cables' lengths, continue spiiiuie on r.iiis Keel bears iNorth, distant 3.^ cables' lengths", continue on an E. J N. course, passing about a cable's length soutluvard of Eelgrass Lightvossi-l, and when btonnigton Lighthouse bears N.E. f E * run for it, until the beacon on the breakwater IS on with the engine-house, then proceed as before. At niglit haul in for tlie anchorage when hall a mile from tlie lighthouse, steerin< it \U2} house open of Fisher's Island ; and when the spire of New London Church, bearing "N. 8° VV,, is in one witli the gap on Bolle's Ilili, steering with it in that direction will carry you between the Race Rock and Valiant Rock, or, you may bring New London Lighthouse a sail's breadth to the eastward of the church spire, bearing N. 5° E., which will carry you to the westward of the Valiant Rock, or between that rock and the Gull Lighthouse. Thence steer for New London as hereafter directed. In case the weather should be thick when you are bound to the westward through the Race, and New London church spire is not to be seen, steer for the Gull Light- house, keeping it northward of West, until New London Lighthouse bears N. ^ E., when you must steer up for it; you will thus pass at about ^ a mile eastward of^ the Gull Lighthouse. Should the Gull Lighthouse be brought to bear S. by W., you may steer N.N.E. for the Roads, making proper allowance for the tide, which is very strong. In the winter season, when bound to or from New London, keep well to the west- ward, should the wind be at N.E. and stormy. Your course imder such circumstances, for a good anchorage, is W.N.W, from the Gull, about 2^ miles; then haul up, should the wind continue at N.E., and steer N.W, until you get into 10 fathoms of water, muddy bottom. Anchor as soon as possible. Here you will be westward of Black Point, between it and Hatchett's Reef. This is the best place to ride in, with a N.E. gale or thick weather, when the harbour of New London cannot be attained. Here you will see Saybrook Light bearing about W. by N. To run into and up the Harbour of New London in the deepest water, through the Western Channel, bring the lightvessel off Bivrtlett's Reef to bear W. by S. f S., and New London Lighthouse N. f W., distant about 1^ mile, and steer N. i E., and it will carry j'ou up in mid-channel in from 4|- to 6 fathoms. In this course you will leave on your port hand the Rapid Rock and Goshen Reef, the Mercer's Rock, and Eleven-feet Rock, the Hog's Back, Melton's Ledge, and also several others close in, but which can be avoided by not running nearer than 250 yards to the shore ; and on the starboard hand S. W. Ledge, Frank's Ledge, and the Black Rock, Most of them are pointed out by buoys.* Vessels after passing the lighthouse are often embarrassed by light winds, and, after rains; by a strong surl'ace current setting out on the flood-tide. To make »ip with a head wind. When outside the South-west Ledge, keep the lighthouse between N.N.W. andN.N.E., but it is advisable not to bring the lighthouse to Tr M by on 0( L( i * Jtapkl liocJc lies S.S.E. from the buoy on Goshen Reef, and | a mile from Go-hen Toint, and has but 10 feet water upon it ; tlie marks for it are Long Rock on with Fort Griswold Monument, and the east end of Fislier's Island open to the northwai 1 of North Hammock. Goshen /feq/',- there are several rocks scattered over the shoal ground around this reef, for which there are no marxs, but which are cleared by the ran.ites for the Middle and In-shore Channels. Mercer's Jioclc, on Sarah's Ledge, has 14 feet water upon it, and is buoyed ; the marks lor it are Shore Rock on with a large stone house about N.W. by N., and the east hillock on Eastern Toint on with a house, bearing N.E. by N. Three cables' lengths within Mercer's Kock,with 4f fathoms between, is a buoy placed on the outermost of a number of rocks (of which Shore Rock is the largest) fronting the land here- about to the distance of ^ a mile od". The 1 l-feet rock lies W. by S. ^ of a mile from the lighthouse. Hoff's Buck and Melton's Ledge, which is buoyed, are in the bay named Green's Harbour, to the southward of Kort Trumbull, and out of the way of vessels proceeding on the above bearing (N. \ E.) ; if tackinf; towards the west side of the river hereabout, do not shoaien the water below 18 feet, or bring the lighthouse anything to the westward of S. by \V. S. ir. Ledge has but 7 feet over it, and is marked by a buoy on its western side ; it lies S) cable's lengths S.E. by S. from the lighthouse. Between this leJge and the Bluck Rock is a small ledge of 13 feet, named Frank's Ledge, which lies with Fort Griswold Monument in one with the hollow in Latham's Chair, and a house and rock near the lighthouse in one; close-to, round this ledge, are 4 to 5 fathoms. The Black Bock is above water, and lies close in-shore southward of Eastern I'oiut, and Latliam's Chair close in-shore northward of that point. It has been reported that near the South-west Ledge there is a rock not on the charts, of which the following is an account by the master of the vessel which struck upon it. We may remark that on reference to the chart of the harbour, (the result of a survey made bj"-the officers of the United States Navy,) which was published in 1848, no mention of the rock is made, but on the contrary there appear to be 5^ fathoms at or near the spot alluded to ; — " A few days since (May 10th, 1851,) while going out of New London Harbour, with a very light wind from the S.W.. we struck on a ro|ck about a mile from the lighthouse. The lighthouse then bore N.N.W. Owing to very light winds we soon got our vessel otT, without sustaining any very serious injury. Vessels going out of the harbour should be very cautious, an it is no easy matter to get a vessel off rocks like these, and more especially where there is much wind. Probably if there had bceu a good breeze we should have lost our vessel.'* LONO ISLAND SOUND. 135 ih, bearing t direction jririg New e, bearing r between I hereal'ter d through ill Light- s N. i E., istward oL i. by W, !, which is the west- unstances, ap, should of water, of Black Ith a N.E. Here you rough the f S., and md it will II leave on lleven-feet which can starboard iinted out ;\\t winds, keep the ighthouse nt, and has uiiient, and tliera are niar'xs, but on Sarah's ith a large ise, bearing uoy placed land hcre- lighthouse. our, to the f{N.iE.); 1 8 feet, or 9 cable's 11 ledge of hollow in ledge, are ern I'oiut, s, of which mark that he United e contrary 0th, 1851,) ruck on a very light ing out of these, and we should in through clear of Prank's to the eastward of N. | E. When up with the White Rock, before reaching Fort Trumbull, keep the Presbyterian Spire open of Port Point, by which you will clear Melton's Ledge, which lies 150 yards to the eastward of Powder Island, and is marked by a buoy. To run through Blaclt: Zedqe Channel, yoxn may bring the Presbyterian Spire on with Port Point, N. by VV., or the Eastern point of the harbour in one with Ocean House, N. \ E., as either of these marks will lead Ledge. If from the eastward. Keep the lighthouse just open to the northward of Smith's house, bearing N.W. by W. ^ W., and it will take you through the Pine Island Channel in from 4^ to 3 fathoms. When to the eastward of Seatlower spindle, keep the lighthouse open to the southward of Pine Island, and it will clear the Horse- shoe and Groton Long Point. When up with Pine Island, which is bold-to, there being 16 feet immediately off it, keep Long Rock open to the southward of a large stone house to the westward, and you will clear the north point of Black Ledge. Between Goshen Reef and the shore is the Middle Channel ; it is narrow, but has a depth of from 13 to 18 feet. When running from the westward after passing Two- tree Island Channel, bring the large black rock, south of Two-tree Island, on with the first large tree to the northward of the house on Black Point, and you will go through the channel in 13 feet. When up with the buoy on Mercer's Rock, you may steer for the lighthouse, and pass into the harbour. To go through tha In- shore Channel, the one between the Middle Channel and the shore, which lies about one-eighth of a mile from Goshen Point, and amongst the rocks bordering the coast, follow the above range (the large black rock south of Two- with the you tree Island on with the first large tree, &c.) until Middle Rock is on black rock, near the east point of the harbour, which latter mark will take through the channel in 8 to 10 feet water. Pass 20 yards to the southward of Middle Rock, and then steer for the black rock until Port Griswold Monument is open to the eastward of the lighthouse, when you may haul up the harbour, giving Quinnipeag Rocks (the rocks near the lighthouse) a berth of 100 yards. This channel is only to be followed when the wind is from the northward, and with a vessel drawing under 10 feet. Baktlett's Reef, the south point of which is 3-J- miles S.W. from New London lighthouse, and a similar distance E. by S. f S. from the extremity of Black Point, extends thence N.N.W. \\ mile, or to within^ of a mile of the shore, and afterwards curves round W.N.W. \ a mile to the buoy on its north-western extremity, where there is also an islet named Two-tree Island ; its greatest breadth is about \ of a mile. In many parts the reef dries at low water, and there are narrow swatchways between these parts with 2^ fathoms and upwards in them. Close-to all round the reef are from 4 to 7 fathoms water, and you will find 13 fathoms, fine sand and mud, at less than \ a mile off its southern extremity. A lightvessel with " Bartlett's Reef' painted in white letters on each quarter, lies off the south end of the reef, and exhibits two fixed lights at the heights of 28 and 35 feet, which are visible at a distance of 10 miles ; during foggy weather a bell is rung and a horn sounded every alternate 5 mimites. Two-tree Island Channel, between the north end of Bartlett's Reef^ and the shore, has a breadth of | of a mile, and is from 4^ to 13 fathoms in depth. When passing through it do not stand into the bay to the northward, as there are several sunken rocks scattered about in it, which would prove dangerous to a vessel striking thereon. Eastward of Black Point, between it and Mill Stone Point, is Nlantlc Bay, which is said to be one of the best harbours of refuge on the northern shore of Long Island Sound, while the wind is northward of West and East. When between Birtlett's Reef and Black Point run for a small island, named White Rock, which lies \ a mile westward of the eastern point, and as it is bold-to you may pass it on either side, and anchor to the north of it in 3| tathr ;ns. On the western side of Bartlett's Reef and off Black Point the bottom is hard, but between it is soft, thus serving as a good guide when running for the anchorage in foggy weather. In the north-east corner of the bay, westward and northward of Waterford Islet and rooks, there is a narrow channel of 10 and 11 feet water up to the village, through whicu the Niantic River empties itself into the sea. The bay westward of Black Point is shallow with many rocks in it, the outermost h 130 LONG ISLAND SOUND. t i-i, "i t w I- ill I 1 if of which have a buoy on their southern end. Off this bay good anchorage may be had in 10 I'iithoms, muddy bottom, with a N.E. gale or in thick weather, bringing-to any- where between Black Point and Hatchett's Reef. HatcheWs lieef lies off Hatchett's Point, its eastern extremity behig 2| miles about W. by S. i S. from I31ack Point ; here it is shoalest (5 feet) and is about \ a mile broad, with a buoy on its south-east and another on its north-east extreme, thence it extends VV.S.W.-ward and joins the extensive sands fronting the entrance of Connecti- cut River, the water over it varying from 10 to 15 feet in depth. It should not be approached nearer than into a depth of 12 fathoms. Between its northern side and the shore there is a blind and narrow channel 85 and 7 fathoms deep, leading in from the eastward up to the Connecticut River Bar, through and over which small craft under the guidance of local knowledge frequently pass. SATSROOX. — The River Connecticut ialls into Long Island Sound about 11 miles westward of New London, but the deposit brought down by it has heaped up an extensive bank of hard sand, which runs out 2 miles south-eastward from the points of entrance, and effectually bars the river from the approach of all vessels above a certain draught. The gi-eatest depth that can be ensured at low water over the bar is from 5 to 7 feet, but to maintain the latter depth up to Lydne Point requires the aid of a skilful pilot. The wharves of Saybrook are Ij mile within the bar, and on the north-eastern side of Siiybrook Point. On the days of full and change, high water takes place at lOh. 17m. ; springs range 5 feet, and neaps 2^- ; the duration of both flood and ebb is about 6 hours each, allowing 36 minutes for still water. As a guide to vessels running for this place, a fixed light is exhibited from a white building erected on Lynde Point, on the west side of the mouth of the river ; it is 80 feet above the mean level of the sea, and may be seen at a distance of 13 miles. A bell is rung in foggy weather. Vessels bound to Saybrook, Essex, or any other place in the Connecticut River should employ a pilot. When one cannot be had and it is compulsory to enter, then the following instructions (1851) by Lieuts. Goldsborough, and Woodhull, U.S.N., will perhaps be found useful : — " Vessels bound into Connecticut River will, when in 3^ to 4 fathoms water, bring the lighthouse to bear N.N.W.,* then steer N.E. until the lighthouse bears N.W. by W., then steer N.W. ^ W., or for the north-east end of Lynde Neck. When the beacon (on the port hand S.E. 3 cables from the light) bears S. by W., steer N.N.W. until abreast of the wharf at Saybrook Point. Wlien the light bears N.N.VV. Duck Island will be well open with Cornfield Point, and Fort Fenwick (on Saybrook Point) open with the lighthouse. Vessels will find good anchorage by bringing the lighthouse to bear from N.E. by E. to N.N.E. one mile distant, in 3 and 4 lathoms water, soft bottom, and by hoisting a signal can always procure a pilot. The changes on the bar are frequent, and sometimes very considerable in the course of even a few days, especially after a storm or freshet. Vessels, therefore, should not attempt to cross it without a pilot." LONG SAND SHOAL is narrow, and has but from 6 to 15 feet over it, the shallowest part being near the middle. Its eastern end (15 feet) lies 1| mile S.S.E. \ S. from Saybrook lighthouse, whence it extends about W. ^ S. 5 miles to the buoy on iis western extremity, from which Saybrook light bears E.N.E. 5 miles. On its south side, near the centre of the shoal and about i of a mile from it, in 7^ fathom.s, sandy bottom, a light vessel has been placed ; she is sloop-rigged, and shows a fixed light 40 feet above the water, which should be seen under ox'dinary states of the atmosphere at a distance of 10 miles; has a square cage-work day-mark at the masthead, and is painted red, with the name of the station in black letters on each quarter ; in foggy weather a bell is rung and a horn sounded every alternate 5 minutes ; and from it Saybrook light bears N.E. | N., Bartlett's Reef Hghtvessel E. ^ N., Little Gull Island light E. by S., and Falkner's Island light W. ^ N. A too near approach to Long Sand Shoal may be dangerous, as it is steep-to, and probably increasing so as to become connected at the north-east end with the bar of Connecticut River. It is also the more dangerous because the tide sets at wi ve of we Ch Sh tag N %i * In doing this the buoy on the •extremity of the bar should be left a abort distauce on the star- board hand ; it lies about S.E. ^ S. l^ ~'Ue from the lighthouse. lay be had ig-to any- liles about t ^ a mile , thence it Connecti- uld not be le and the 1 IVom the raft under 1 11 miles ped up an the points [3 above a the bar is s the aid r, and on 1 change, i 21 ; the s for still m a white • ; it is 80 s. A bell irer should , then the S.N., wiU ter, bring N.W. by Vhen the N.N.W. Id Point, will find N.E. one ^n always e in the L-e, should • it, the oy on its its south !s, sandy light 40 nosphere i, and is in foggy from it .11 lislaud steep-to, id with tide sets the star- LONG ISLAND SOUND. 137 athwart it to the north-west and south-east. The buoy near the eastern end, with that on the wehtern, and the lightvessel near the middle, will, however, very materially assist vessels passing up and down the sound in sailing clear of it. About 2 miles westward of Saybrook lighthouse is Cornfield Point, southward and westward of which are several detached reefs, known by the names of Hen and Chickens, Crane, &c. ; between the buoys marking their outer edges and Long Sand Shoal there is a channel one mile wide and 6 and 8 I'athoms deep, through which small vessels sail, whose masters are acquainted with the locality, when going to or from Connecticut River. These reefs are separated from each other and from the shore by narrow and deep channels, and are steep-to on all sides. The bays westward of Cornfield Point are shallow and rocky, and offer no advan- tages, except to the smallest craft; indeed, in the whole of the distance thence to New Haven there is no place of any importance, particularly to strangers, and the coast is fronted by shoals, rocks, and rocky islets, in and among which coasters find an in-shore passage with northerly winds. The outermost of these dangers, and, consequently, those most in the way of vessels navigating the sound hereabout are, Kimberley's Reef, Falkner's Island and the surrounding rocks, and East Ledge, and Brown's, Wheatons, and Bran ford Reefs; they are situated at distances varying from 2 to 3 miles from the land, but may be avoided if, when in the vicinity of Falkner's Itiland, the depth is not lessened under 15 fathoms, and, when well to the westward of that island, under 9 or 10 fathoms. Kimberley's Reef, on which there are only 10 feet, is very small and steep-to with 5 and 8 fathoms a short distance off all round. As before stated, it lies 1^ mile E. \ N. from Falkner's lighthouse, and 3 miles South from Hogshead Point, the nearest part of the shore. Falkner's Island, &c. — Falkner's or Falcon Island is 2f miles southward from the nearest point of the main at the small and shallow harbour of Guildford, and bears fl'om Little Gull Island light W. % N. 24^ miles, and from Stratford Point light E. i N. 20^ miles. A narrow reef of rocks extends from it nearly \ a mile north- ward, the extremity of which has a buoy upon it, and around Goose Island, a mile westward of Falkner's, there is likewise a dangerous reef running northward also about the same distance. The south side of Falkner's and the west side of Goose Island are steep-to, but on all others they will require to have a good berth given them. The white building on Falkner's Island, which has an elevation of 41 feet, exhibits a fixed light varied by flashes every 1^ minute, at the height of 98 feet above the mean level of the sea, and visible 15 miles. There is good anchorage for small vessels on the western side of Falkner's Island, with the wind from the eastward. In going in, give the south end of the island a small berth, and anchor with the light bearing E. by S., one-third of a mile from the island, in 3 fathoms, soft bottom. There is, also, a good and smooth bottom close on the north-east side of the island, where, with a westerly wind a vessel may anchor in 21 fiithoms, with the lighthouse bearing S.W. by S. The passage between Falkner's Island and the banks and rocks extending from the northern shore is 1^ mile wide, and 5, 6, and 8 fathoms deep. In running through, there will be Kimberley's Reef and those on the north side of Falkner's and Goose Islands to avoid, on the port hand, and the rocks and shoals off the shore, on the starboard side ; the former may be cleared by giving the lighthouse a berth of | of a mile, and when it bears S.E. by E. and Goose Island South, you will have passed them; and the latter by keeping Hammonasset Point to the northward of East. Thi^s point may be known by having two small blufls at its extremity ; it bears E. by N. \ N. 5^ miles from Falkner's lighthouse, and is surrounded by rocks and a shallow flat. As soon as Goose Island bears South you should steer more southerly to clear the reefs hereafter mentioned. „ , . ^ , 1 , «. j Sachem's Head Harbour is about 3 miles N.W. of Falkner s Island, and affords good shelter " om all but westerly winds which throw in a very heavy sea. Sacheni s Head forms the south and Joshua's Point, upon which is a small clump of cedars, the north side of this httle harbour, wherein the depth is only from 9 to 12 feet at low water. High water on full and change days at llh. ; springs range 6^, and neaps 4^ feet. The Goose Rocks lie i of a mile off the harbour's mouth ; they must have a good berth in entering from the westward, because, at the distance of 2 cables' lengths in a south-westerly direction from them, there is a small isolated ledge with only 3 feet upon 13S LONG ISLAND SOUND. J 'M I it. To run in, bring tha small clump of cedars, which stands on the north chop of the harbour to bear North, steer for it, and give the south chop a berth of a cable's length. When the harbour is fairly opened, haul in and anchor in from 9 to 11 feet on soft sticky bottom. Very small vessels may run into the little creek in the south-east corner, and, making fast to the rocks, be perfectly sheltered from all winds, lying in the mud at low water. Two miles westward of Sachem's Head is a group of islets, named the Thimbles. One-third of a mile south-westward of the Outer Thimble is W/ieaton's Reef, with a buoy on its northern end. BrowrCs Reef is southward of W'heaton's, and East ledge south-eastward; the latter bears S.W. by S. i S. | of a mile from the Outer Thimble. Branford Mecf has a beacon on its northern part, and is dry at very low tides ; it is not of very great extent, but deep water of 7 and 8 fathoms is found at a short distance off it all round. Falkner's Island bears from it E. by S. nearly 7 miles distant, and New Haven light N.W. by W, \ W. 4f miles. Therefore, to pass clear on the southern, or outside all these rocks, do not bring Falkner's Island lighthouse south- ward of E. \ S., or decrease the depth below 8| fathoms. There is a good passage northward of the ioregoing reefs, between them and the Outer Thimble, Inner Reef, and Nigger Heads, but, although the extremities of these dangers are distinguished by buoys or beacons, and the water deep enough for the largest vessels, the channel should not be attempted by a stranger. UTEIV BAVEir HARBOXIlt is 12 miles westward of Falkner's Island, and nearly half way up Long Island Sound ; it is formed by the union and at the outlet of the Quinnipiac and Mill Rivers, and is exposed to southerly winds. The water shoalens gradually up to the bar near Fort Hale, whereon the greatest depth at low water is 10 or 12 feet; but this soon increases again to 15 and 18 feet, and then, as you approach the town, decreases to 7 and 8 feet. The channel-way has a breadth of 4 cables at the bar and of only one cable near the end of Long Wharf. High water takes place on the days of full and change of the moon at llh. 16m. The Rise of highest tide above the plane of reference is 7ft. 7in. Height of mean High Water 6 4 Mean rise and fall of Tides 5 8 Mean rise and fall of Spring Tides 6 6 Mean rise and fall of Neap Tides 5 1 The flood has an average duration of 6h. 24m., and the ebb of 6h. 5m. The lighthouse shows a fixed light 93 feet above the sea, visible 15 miles ; it stands on the extretnity of Five-mile Point, on the eastern side of the entrance ; a boll is tolled in foggy weather : on the end of Long Wharf there is a fixed red liglit 44 feet above the mean level of the sea. DANaEHS. — The outermost of these, on the port hand going in, are the Luddinaton Rocks, which are situated 1^ mile S.W. from the lighthouse, and consist of two Hnatn pointed rocks 10 yards apart, with 12^ feet upon them ; around them are 17 and 19^ feet. Nearly f of a mile N.N.W. from the Luddington Rocks is a hard patch of 11 feet, and between this patch and the western shore are several others of 6 and 6 feet water. On the starboard hand are the S.W. Ledge, Quixos' Ledge, Adams* Fall,* &c. ; therefore the lighthouse, which appears very conspicuous, shoiild not be approached too near while bearing to the northward of N.E. by E. The S. W. Ledge is marked by a buoy, bearing from the lighthouse S.W. by S. \ S., one mile, and from the spindle on Quixes' Ledge W.S.W., half a mile. From 5 to 10 lieet is the depth on this ledge at low water, and there are fr«)m 10 to 18 lect betwtien it and (juixos' Ledge. Quixes' Ledge has frojn 2 to 5 feet on it, bears from the lighthouse S. \ E., distant about ^ of a mile, and is marked by a spindle. North-westward of Quixes' Ledge dihtunt \ of H mile is anotiier rocky shoal of 6 feet, the depth between tlieni being 15 feet. Jietween these shoiils and Morgan's Point are 8 to 12 feet, hard ground, but no navigable chan- nel. The Round Rock, dry at low water, is about half a mile East of (.^nixes' Ledge, and about a quarter of a mile off the shore. Adams Fall, a shoal of 4 to 5 feet, is * We bulleve that attempts aro making to remove sume uf tliosc obstructluas hy blasting. hop of the }'s length. !et on soft south-east ing iu the Thimbles. '.ef, with a and East the Outer ' tides ; it at a short ly 7 miles ss clear on »use south- ■n and the emities of ater deep ;ed by a md nearly 3 outlet of The water , depth at 1 feet, and way has a of Long t moon at LONG ISLAND SOUND. 139 k 7in. 4 8 6 1 ; it stands ; a bell is ht 4i feet ddinaton iwo unarn and Vd\ ateh of 11 and G feet Ul * &e. ; oaehed too rked by a pindle on k'd^e at Quijccs' ant about htant -} of Jk'tween ible Chan- s' Ledge, 5 feet, U IS uting. distant about half a mile from the lighthouse point, and is marked by a biioy, which bears fron\ the lighthouse S.W. jj W., and from the spindle on Quixes' Ledge N. VV. \ W., about half a mile. Between Adam's Fall and Five-mile Point is a depth of 17 to 16 feet at low water, but no vessel should attempt to run through. Directions. — If bound into Newhaven, give Falkner's Island a berth of about one mile, and steer W. by N., until the light on Five-mile Point is north of j'ou. You will now be in 6^ fathoms, soft ground, and ma}' steer N.VV., giving the lighthouse a berth of Ij miles, to avoid the S.W. Ledge, the buoy on which must be left on the starboard hand. When the lighthouse bears N.E., you may steer up N.N.E. for Fort Hale, leaving the buoy on Adam's Fall on your starboard hand. In this course you will probably pass over the Luddington Rocks, alieady mentioned ; therefore, what is better still, as soon as Fort Hale comes in line with Fair Haven Spire (a white wooden church), follow that direction, and when nearly abreast of the fort, give it a berth of one-fourth of a mile, and steer up N. ^ W. for the end of Long Wharf, leaving Black Ledge, which is i of a mile N.W. of .the fort, on your starboard hand. A little to the north-westward of Fort Hale is a buoy in 15 feet, and above that, at about f of a mile on the opposite side of the channel, is another in 9 I'eet, on the extremity of the shoal ground extending from Sandy Point. Close olF the end of Long Wharf are 7 and 8 feet, sott mud. It is recommended when sailing up to keep the lead going ; the soundings from Adam's Fall upwards are upon soft mud. Coming from the eastwtird, vessels occasionally pass between the buoy on the S.W.- Ledge and the spindle on Quixes' Ledge, as there are 3:^ fathoms between, excepting in mid-channel, where there is one small spot of 10 feet : this lies nearer the S.W. Ledge than the spindle. Steer about midway between the buoy and the spindle, so as to leave the buoy on Adam's Fall at the distance of a quarter of a mile. Bring the leading mark up to Fort Hale on, namely, Fort Hale in range with Fair Haven Spire, which will lead you up in from 17 to 14 and 10 feet, soft ground. Give the fort a berth when rounding it, and steer as above directed for Long Wharf, going into not less than 7 feet. Should you wish to anchor in Morris' Cove, biing the light on Five-mile Point to bear S. by E., when anchorage may be obtained in 2 to Ij fathoms, muddy bottom. Your course thence up the harbour is about North, with a fair wind, and in beating up, the above-mentioned directions must be followed, to keep the lead going, in order to avoid the hard ground on the western shore, for while you continue on a bottom of mud, no danger can possibly ensue. Vessels bound in from the westward must leave both buoys on the starboard hand, approaching no nearer to either of them than half a cable. When beating in, your soundings will be from 2 to 3 and 4 fathoms, but you must be careful to stand no nearer than 2 fathoms on the west shore, on account of the hard ground. To these directions may be added the following by Lieutenant G. S. Blake, of the U.S.N. :— "Bring the Lighthouse to bear E.N.E., and run for it until Fort Hale is m range with the larger of two church spires next each other in the villageof Fair Haven. You will then be about half a mile from the light in 3 fathoms water, and but a short distance to the westward of the buoy on Adam's Fall Ledge. S. I E. you will see the buoy on the S.W. Ledge, and still further to the eastward, the spindle on Quixes* Ledg«'. Kun into the harbour upon the above-mentioned range, Fort Hale nnd the Spire, imtil the lighthouse beurs S. by E., when you will be in 2 fathoms, soft bottom. Then steer up a lilth' to the westward of the head of liong Wharf, and you will soon doi-peii into 2} and 2| fathoms. A little ahove Fort Halo is a buoy which you leave to the eastward, and | of a mile further up, anotlu-r, which you leave to the westward. Soon after leaving this last buoy, you will shoal to 8 and 7 feet, carrying this depth up to the head of ijong Wharf." , i -i Stuatfobd. — The coast from New Haven trends south-westward 8. ^ miles to Strat- ford Toint, and sho\ild have a berth of (»vt'r i a mile, for from the prnj»>cting points a rocky olf-lay extends almost to that distance. There is no place of impoitanet* between, though small vessels will fmd temporary anchorage in 12 feet, in a small bay mimed Milford Haven, midway between Charles Island and Cedar or Pino Trees Point. Btrutford Harbour, formed at the outlet of the Hourttttunic Itivor, is a box- harbour with 140 LONG ISLAND SOUND. only 3 feet in the channel way at low water ; it is, therefore, only used by small coast- ing vessels. On Stratford Point, the western side of the entrance, there is a light- house, striped black and white, showing a light revolving once in every 1^ minute, at an elevation of 53 feet above the mean level of the sea ; and being visible at a distance of 12 miles, is of great use to all vessels beating up or down Long Island Sound. The coast immediately westward of Stratford Point is fronted by an extensive hard sandy flat, the 3-fathom edge of which is in some places nearly 1^ mile off; therefore vessels not bound into either Bridgeport or Black Rock Harbour, should give the shore a good berth, more particularlj? as there are some 9-feet patches upon the bank, the outermost of which, we believe, is marked by a buoy. MIDDLE GROUND lies 5| miles S. | \V. from Stratford Point, and 5 miles N. by E. ^ E. from Old Field Point lighthouse, and has but 2 feet least water upon it at low tide ; it is about i a mile in extent from north to south, with a buoy on each end, and ■| of a mile broad. You may pass on either side, according to circumstances, but the southern channel is the one most generally used, especially as a light-vessel off the south end of the shoal offers additional assistance in clearing that danger. This light-vessel is moored in 11 fathoms, ^ of a mile south-west of the shallowest part of the Middle Ground, and should be passed on its southern side. It has the name of the station painted in large black letters on each quarter, and shows two fixed lights, 32 and 40 feet above the level of the sea, visible at the distance of 10 miles ; during foggy weathei* a bell is rung and a horn sounded every alternate 5 minutes. BRZBOBPORT.— The small harbour of Bridgeport, at the mouth of Pequanock River, is 3^ miles westward of Stratford Point lighthouse, and though difficult of access, is much resorted to by coasters. The channel up to the town is very narrow, and leads over an outer and an inner bar, the least depth at low water being 6 and 7 feet, similar to that abreast the wharves of Bridgeport. Beacons and buoys point out the fairway, but a stranger should employ a pilot. On the west side of the entrance of the channel into Bridgeport, and upon a white frame-work building, there is a small fixed red light 23 feet above the water, visible about 6 miles. High water on the days of full and change at lib. 11m.; springs range 8| feet, and neaps 5. As before stated, the entrance to this harbour is obstructed by two bars, the outer one of which has been deepened by dredging, and the cut, which is f of a mile long, is indicated by a buoy at each end in line with the deepest water. The inner or northern buov bears from the outer buoy N. | E., distant § of a mile. To run in, keep these buoys in one, passing the lighthouse on your port hand and the inner buo}- close upon the starboard bow, to pass the outer bar ; then keep a couple of cables' lengths south-easterly, or outside of the line of the north-east and south-west beacons upon the edge of the western flats, standing on across the inner bar in from G to 10 feet water. Haul up round the north-east beacon, deepening to 16 feet, when a buoy which marks the north-east point of the western flats, will bear N.W. by N., | of a mile distant. Run up through the channel for the town, keeping this buoy a little on the port bow. There is safe and good anchorage between Bridgeport entrance and Fairweather light. If mile westward, in all winds from W.S.W., by the north, to E.N.E. The Hhore on the eastern side of the light is bold, having 3 fathoms almost close to it, and deepening gradually outwards. This buy is considered one uf the best places for an- chorage on the north shore of Long Island Sound, as the gmund is good and the sound- ings shoalen moderately, until at a mile from the shore there are d to 3 fathoms water, with the li^'ht bearing about West; thence to the coast the depths are IH to feet. In coming hither from the eastward, after passing at about 2 miles from Stratford Point light, the course to Black Rock light will be W.N.W., and you should keep in sound- ings on the starboard side of not less than 4 fathoms : and outward, or on the port side, to not more than 8 fathoms. BIiACX ROCX HARBOVR, a small place of refuge | of a mile in extent from north to south, and 3 cables' lengths broail, formed by the nniin on the western and Fairweather Island on the eastern side, and open to the southward, lies 6J miles west- ward of Stratford Point lighthouse, atid round to the eastward and northward of Fair- field Bar, and is safe and easy of access, the depth in it varying from 5> and 12 feet at the eiitrance to G, 8, and 11 feet alnvnst the village. For the time of high water, and the rise and fall of the tide, see Bridgeport, j)rece(ling. Fairweather Island, which is low and narrow, has upon the south end of it a lighthouse, 36 feet high, showing a f bo LONG ISLAND SOUND. 141 mall coast- is a light- ly minute, risible at a ong Island insive hard '; therefore '8 the shore 3 bank, the niles N. by on it at low ch end, and ces, but the if the south light-vessel the Middle the station 1, 32 and 40 jgy weathei" ' Pequanock [lit ol' access, w, and leads feet, similar the fairway. ' the channel Led red light of full and rs, the outer mile long, is or northern land and the a couple of south-west |,r in from 6 x>et, when a by N., I of )y a little on i'airweather I.N.E. The w to it, and laces for an- the sound- jlioms watiT, I) foet. In [tford Point Ip in souiid- lio port side, loxtont from a'stern and Imiles west- linl of Fair- Id 12 feet at water, and |)d, which is showing a fixed light at 52 feet above the sea, visible 12 miles. A reef, partly awash at low water, runs about a quarter of a mile to the southward from the lighthouse, and has on its ex- tremity a buoy. When you have rounded this buoy, on your starboard hand, the har- bour will be fairly opened, and you may run up N. ^ E., in 8 to 10 feet. At 1\ mile S. f W. from Black Rock lighthouse is the outer end of the Fairfield Bar, a reef runnhig off \\ mile in a S.E. f E. direction from Shoal Point, and being dry at low water serves as an efficient protection to Black Bock Harbour agaiust heavy seas from the southward. At the extremity of this reef there are some rocks awash at low water, named the Cows, and near them is another cluster, named the Penfield's Reef; these rocks lie just within the 18- feet line, and have from 4 to 6 fathoms at \ of a mile to the eastward of them. This reef is marked at its extremity by a beacon upon • rock, named the Huncher, and there are two buoys on the south-eastern and southern sides of this danger, which will assist a vessel in ascertaining its limits. If comin» into Black Rock Harbour from the eastward, when abreast of Stratford light (which pass at a distance of 2 miles to avoid a shoal spot south of it), bring Black Rock hght to bear W.N.W., and steer W. by N. f N., keeping it on the star/ board bow. Enter midwo tltat it I; in this 4 since the »gs on it ; sland, but It inserted ;e-\vork in nt; 24 feet which the lit anchor- by Shelter e may also lern side of ind, during stern Plain e you will vessel may 1, touching and in one Gardiner's S. 45° E. f the tide, and, where ;s about 10 shape, for th extreme 200 yards ched to the ;ed light at sandy Hat, jout I oi" a IS about 1} a flat of 14 its western louse. .nda, and ia part, which Plum Gut, n every 30 feet water, are 12 feet less thau 6 fathoms, when approaching inc. east side of the island. The northern shore of the island should have a berth of at least ^ a mile, as there are a 6 and a 9-feet rock lying off the middle of that side, with deep water close-to. DiEECTioNS. — In the daytime, if bound to Gardiner's Bay, and having rounded Montauk Point, steer N. by \V. ^ W., until you clearl}' discover the points that form Fort Pond Bay, and see the red cliff, on the western point, open of CuUoden Point, or the eastern point. You may then steer W. by N., for the channel between Gardiner's Island and Plum Island, passing between the Shagwong and Cerberus Reefs. Having made Gardiner's Island you may round its northern low point, only taking care not to approach it nearer than ^ a mile, on account of the 12 to 15 feet shoal which runs off it. New London Lighthouse kept a sail's breadth open to the eastward of Plum Island will carry you up into the middle of Gardiner's Bay, in the deepest water, and out of the tide, where you may anchor at pleasure in from 5 to 8 fathoms. Or, you may also reach Gardiner's Bay by attending to the following instructions :— Being three-quarters of a mile to the eastwai'd of Montauk Point, in 5 to 6 fathoms, steer N. f E., 1^ mile, when you get into 7 fathoms, gravelly bottom, with Montauk Point bearing S.W. by S., distant 2 miles. Steer now N.W. ^ W., 4^ miles, until Montauk Light bears S.E. by S. ^ S., 5^ miles, when j'ou will be in 14 or IG fathoms, grey sand and gravel. Then haul in W. by N. ^ N., until Plum Island Light is in sight, then run for it on this course until Little Gull Island Light bears N.E. Run in with it on that bearing until Plum Island Light bears N.W., then haul in to the S.S.E., and anchor in from 3| to 4| fathoms, muddy bottom. On rounding Montauk Point in the night, when the land or light can be seen, and during a westerly gale, yon may anchor when the light bears S.W. by S., in 8 or 9 fathoms, coarse sand. Having brought Montauk Point to the southwai'd of West, when the weather is thick, and you cannot clearly ascertain the distance from the pointj the lead must be your guide. Steer as high as W.N. W. until you have gained 9 fathoms, then haul off into 13 ; and if you suddenly shoalen from 10 to 6, steer otf E. by N. until you gain 11 or 12, when the lead, kept well going, will prevent your going too near the reefs. To go through Plum Gut to the Avestward, give Pine Point, the south point of Plum Island, which is moderatel}' steep, a berth of 2^ cal>Ies' lengths, and stoer so as to bring the west bluff of Plum Island to bear N. by W. Keep it on that bearing until you have brought the poplar-tree clear of the east end of Mr. Jerome's house, or until you have brought Pine Point to thi^ southward of East ; you will then observe a wood, close inland of the high bluff of Jiong Island, which, when bearing W. ^ S., will be in one with the rocky point, which is the next point to Oyster Pond Point. Steering with the wood and this point in one, will carry you clear of the reef lying off the north bluff. In running through the Plum Gut to the eastward, keep the point over the middle of the wood before mentioned, until the poplar tree is to the west end of the house ; then steer to the southward, giving Pine Point a berth as before. Pine Point bearing E. by S. will lead clear of the shoals coming to the eastward. The tide runs 4 or 5 knots in the gut. The flood sets about W.N.W., and the ebb E.S.E. It is high water at 9h. 38m. on the days of full and change. SAG BAABOVR is in the south-west corner of Gardiner's Bay, on the south side of Shelter Island. Extensive sand-banks bar the approach to it, over which, we believe, from 12 to 15 feet water can be carried, but the channel up to Sag is narrow and winding, and, though buoyed throughout, it is advisable to employ a pilot. ^ When in, excellent shelter can be had in a moderate depth, and supplies of all descriptions can be obtained at the village. About one mile inside the ba.-, and on the port hand in entering, is Cedar Island, with a white building on it, used as a keeper's dwelling, on the top of which a small fixed light is exhibited, at the height of 34 feet, visible to the distance of Coming into Gardiner's Bay, between Plum and Gardiner's Islands, and having brought New London Lighthouse a sail's breadth open eastward of Plum Island, yon may proceed on that bearing up the middle of the bay to the outer edge of Sag Harbour bar. Or, when Gardiner's Point light bears South, distant 1 or 1^ mile, a S. W. ^ S. course for 7i miles will answer the same purpose. Entering through Plum Gut and Irom abreast of Pine Point a S. by W. ^ W. course for 6 miles will likewise lead up to the entrance of the harbour. The direction of the channel over the bar is W.S.W. up to Cedar Island light. L a 143 LONG ISLAND SOUND. I I Ilfi . I ORBBXirpORT is situated on the Long Island shore, opposite the north end of Shelter Island, and the channel to it, which leads in from Gardiner's Bay, between Kain'a Head and Long Beach Point, has a depth of not less than 5 I'athoma, and is marked by buoys, but as the encroachment of the sand-banks extending from both shores contracts it to very narrow limits, large vessels especially should take a pilot. In running for this place, from the entrance of Plum Gut, steer S.W. 4^ miles, which will bring you up to the buoy at the entrance of the channel. Long Beach is 3^ miles long, and covered with low cedar trees, which you leave on your starboard hand going up to Greenport, You will have, from Plum Gut to the entrance, on this course, from 7 to 4^ fathoms of Avater, and in tacking towards Long Beach you will shoal your water to 3 fathoms, and if you get any less, haul to the southward. From the entrance your course is W.N.W. 5 W., 1^ mile, which will carry you to the elbow of the bank off Long Beach Point in from 4 to 10 fathoms ; steer now N.VV. -3- N. for nearly a mile, and then about West, a similar distance to Ilay Beach Point, on Shelter Island, which you leave on your port hand ; haul close round Hay Beach Point, and your course is S.W., one mile, to Greenport ; then you may come to anchor in a good harbour. From the middle of the channel off' Gardiner's Point to Greenport the distance is 6^ niiles, on a S.W, by W. ^ W. course. Sailing on in this course you will shoal your water from 6 fathoms, gradually decreasing to 3 fathoms on the Long Beach side; and when up with the buoy at the entrance of the harbour, follow the above directions to Greenport. On each side of Shelter Island there is a channel leading into Noyack, and Little and Great Peconic Bays, that on the northern side being the deepest. To go to either of these places a stranger must obtain the assistance of a pilot. From the Hace weshoard the first dangers requisite to be pointed out are the two rocks lying off the middle of the northern side of Plum Island ; they have 6 and 9 feet over them, and may be cleared by giving the island a berth of at least \ a mile. Passing the entrance of Plum Gut, and distant about 5 miles westward from the flashing light on the west end of Plum Island, the coast makes a short curve, forming a small bay, fronting which and distant nearly | of a mile from its head, is a bank with only 6 feet least water over it, with from 4 to 8 fathoms all round; to avoid this, Terry and Kocky Points, the east and west points of the little bay, should have a good ofl&ng given them, say, of f of a mile or more. . Jlorton Point, above 6 miles further westward, has a red brick tower upon it 30 feet high, from which a fixed light is exhibited at an elevation of 110 feet above the mean level of the sea, and visible to the distance of 18 miles in clear weather. Here commences a sand-bank which runs westward and parallel to the coast to beyond Duck Pond Point, a distance of 6 miles, its outer edge, near the middle, being about one mile from high-water mark ; upon its eastern part the soundings over it vary from 3 to 9 feet, and on its western from 9 to 12 feet, and as there is deep water of from 6 to 10 fathoms close-to its outer edge, great care should be exercised when tacking towards the land hereabout; the depth of 12 fathoms, if preserved, will lead clear of it, or Hortou light kept to the eastward of E. by N. will serve the same object. At Duck Pond I'oint the bank begins to close with the shore, and for 3^ niiles westward does not extend from it more than ^ of a mile, but at Jacob's Point its 3-fathom edge curves out to above f of a mile oft' the coast, then recedes, and oft' Koanoke Point again runs out to seaward above \\ mile, and has here near its extremity only 12 and 15 feet, which .deepens immediately to 18 and 19 fathoms. This part is, therefore, very dangerous, l)articiiliirly in thick or hazy weather. From the 12-i'eet spot Horton light bears E. by N. \ N. distant 12| miles, and Faulkner's Island light N. by E. \ E., also 12^ miles. Consequently, as soon as Falkner's light comes to the eastward of N. by E., that on Hortoii Point should be maintained on* a bearing more easterly than E. by N., and a ■\V. by N. course steered towards the lightvessel oft' the south end of the Middle Ground, wliich will carry you clear of another prolongation of the bank from Herod's Point, about 5 miles westward of that from the point of Roanoke, on the edge of which, at nearly 1^ inile off the point, there are but 6 and 14 feet, and 17 fathoms at a short dis- 4ance outside. Hence to the Old Sow Bocks the edge of the bank in 3-fathom8 is not more than f of a mile from shore, but it shoalens very rapidly to 9 and 6 feet. The Old Sow Rocks are situate 1\ miles eastward of Old Field Point lighthouse, and hero tlie land should have a berth of 1^ mile or more, as there are only 3 fathoms at 1^ n)ili> from ir, which soon decreases to 12 and 9 leet as the beach is approached. Mount Miseri/ Shoal is another and the last projection of this bank which fronts the LONG ISLAND SOUND. 149 1 end of n Ram's irked by ntracts it ; for this ou up to [ covered reenport. thorns of fathoms, course is ng Beach len about I leave on one mile, mce is 6^ lioal your lach side; directions Little and ) either of re the two and 9 feet ^ a mile. from the e, forming bank with this, Terry ;ood offing upon it 30 above the ler. Here j'ond Duck it one mile 3 to 9 feet, fathoms 3 the laud Hortou )uck Pond does not curves out n runs out eet, which dangerous, )eiirs E. by 121 miles. E., that on N., and a lie Ground, od's Point, f which, at short dis- lonis is not feet. The e, and hero horns at li ed. fronts the coast all the way from Horton to Old Field Point ; it is 1| mile E. J- N. from Old Fiold Point, and J of a mile northward of Mount Misery Point, has but 6 feet water over it, is steep-to, the outer edge being marked by a buoy, and between it and tlie latter point are soundings of 3, 2\ and 2 fathoms. Mount Misery Shoal forms the soutliern, and Middle Ground the northern side of the channel most frequently used by vessels passing up and down Long Island Sound, and by the exorcise of mere ordinary care and the aid afforded by the lightship off the south point of that ground, and the lighthouse on Old Field Point, they may sail through it clear of both these dangers. Old Field Point is nearly opposite Stratford Point, and 31 miles westward of Hortou Point. The white lighthouse upon it shows a fixed light at the height of 67 feet above the mean level of the s-sa, visible 13 miles. Eastward of Old Field Point, between it and Mount Misery Shoal, is the entrance to Setauket Bay, wherein are the villages of Fort Jefferson and Setauket; but as the channel over the bar is both shallow and in- tricate, none but very small vessels under the control of persons acquainted with the bay can reach either of these places. Smithtown Bay. — The extremity of Crane Neck Point is 2 miles westward of Old Field Point. Here the coast runs in 2^ miles to the southward to the entrance of Stony Brook Harbour, the bar of which is shallow and can only be crossed in sal'ety by the aid of a pilot. The bars of Nissequaque River lie 4 miles \V. by S. from that of Stony Brook, the intervening coast being fronted by a broad and shallow flat ; within the river's mouth are the villages of Nissequaque and Darlington, to which small craft ascend under the guidance of local knowledge. Hence to Eaton's Neck Point the coast trends N.W. by VV. \ W. Ta miles, and should not be approached nearer than one mile, for a flat of hard sand extends off to nearly that dista\ice in several ])laces. Crane Neck and Eaton's Points are the east and west extremities of Smithtown Buy, distant 11 miles from each other; they should have a good berth in passing, especially the latter point, and when between them, if the depths are not reduced below 10 and 9 fathoms, you will be clear of the flats lining the shores of the bay. BUXTTXirGBOMr BAV runs in 2 miles to the southward, between Eaton's and Lloyd's Necks, is above a mile in width, and in the fairway there are soundings of 5 and 6, decreasing as you advance inwards to 4 and 3 fathoms. Good anchorage vaxvj be had in any part, except with northerly winds. Its shores are lined with sandy flats, and should have a berth given them by large vessels when seeking shelter in it. In the south-east corner of the bay there is a narrow channel, about 60 fathoms in width and 3 and 4 fathoms deep, leading in between the sand-bank extending southward from East Beach Point and that fronting the mainland, into Cow Harbour, or North- port Bay, wherein are from 9 to 4 fathoms gradually shoaling as you proceed eastward round Little Neck Point towards the village of Northport, where there are only 4, 5, and 6 feet water, or southward into Centreport Inlet, which hius but 3 and 2 feet in its narrow and winding channel. In the south-west corner of the bay are the entrances of two shallow inlets ; that running in southward, and named Huntingdon Harbour, has 10, 8, and 6 feet in it, but the channel-way is not more than 50 fathoms in width ; and that running in westward, named Lloyd's Harbour, is much frequented by coasters, and may be entered by bringing the point of West Beach to bear West or W. I N.,* stand in on that direction keeping the point close aboard, and anchor when within it, in 10 feet, or haul in directly round it and lie in soft mud at low water perfectly sheltered from all quarters. High water on the days of full and change at llh. ; spring tides range 9 J, and neaps 6*- feet. On Eaton's Neck Point, the eastern side of the entrance to Huntingdon Bay, there is a white lighthouse 56 feet high, showing a. flxed light at an elevation of 138 feet above the sea, visible 17 miles in clear weather. From the shore of the lighthouse a reef stretches out 4 cables' lengths north-eastward, with as little as 2 feet of water on its outer part, the extremity of which is marked by a buoy moored in 13 or 14 feet ; from this spot shoal water of 16 and 18 feet extends nearly ^ of a mile further ui a N.N. westerly direction, the northern end being also pointed out by a buoy ; JUid ^ «- mile still further north-westward, with from 4 to 7 fathoms between, lies a small rocky patch of 19 feet, with the lighthouse bearing from it S. by E. \ E., distant \\ mile ; • Upon West Beach, and just within the extremity of this point, is a brick-built tower 34 feet high, which exhibits a fixed liglit 48 feet above the mean level of the sea, visible 10 miles, and is ot much service to vessels seeking refuge in Lloyd's Harbour in the uight time. • • 150 LONG ISLAND SOUND. l^ m this has likewise a buoy on its northern side. Therefore, large vessels in passing should keep at above 2 miles from this ptjint, and those entering Huntingdon Bay from the eastward should exercise great care either in rounding these dangers or in going through between them. OYSTSK OB SYOSSET BAT is separated from Huntingdon Bay by Lloyd's Neck; its entrance lies between Lloyd's Point and the reef extending | of a mile north- ward from Hog Island, which forms the western side of the bay. As a spit runs three- fourths the distance over from Hog Island towards Lloyd's Neck, the channel, which is thereby confined to the eastern side of the bay, is only 1^ cable wide, that is, from 3 fathoms on one side to 3 fathoms on the other, though the depth varies from 4 to 10 fathoms, but when inside the spit there is plenty of room and a good depth of water, which shoalens very gradually as you proceed southward up Cold Spring Harbour. In this harbour from 14 to 17 feet over a soft bottom will be found to within 100 or 150 fathoms of either shore, but it is quite exposed to northerly winds, whereas Oyster Bav Harbour, an arm of the bay running intothesouth-westward, forms a spacious and sate retreat from all winds, with good anchorage in 7a or 8 fathoms, soft sticky bottom ; smaller vessels may go further in and anchor in what depth they please. It is high M'ater on full and change days of the moon at lib. 6m. ; springs range 9^ feet, and neaps 5^, Entering from the eastward, be careful to give Loyd's Point a berth of ^ a mile or more, to avoid Morris Hock and the flat surrounding the point, the north-east edge of which is marked by a buoy. When this point is rounded the eastern shore of the bay may be followed to within two cables' lengths. From Centre Island Point, the western point of entrance, a reef, named Hog Ishuul, or Centre Island Keef, juts out N.N. West- ward I of a mile, and has a buoy on its extremity, and for 3 or 4 cables further north- ward there are not more than 15 or 18 feet, deepening afterwards to 5 and 6 fathoms. Also, as before stated, from the eastern shore of Hog Island, a spit of from 5 to 7 feet water over a hard bottom makes uearly across the bay, to avoid which you must keep the eastern shore close aboard until you have fairly opened the mouth of Ovster Bay Harbour, when it will bear about S.W. by W. ; run into this hiirb0 yards of it, when steer for the south end and Horn's Hook and the white house on Gibb's Vessels ])assing through either tin' Main S )ass witinn 20 yards of it, tacking before *oint are in range, ip Channel or Middle Channel, take the channel ht.sY of Blackwell's Island, the vviiuls being more steady in that direction. Go ,y close to Horn's Hook, aKi ays avoiding the eddies. After passing Horn's '. as near the middle uf tin* channel us possible, and never shut in one point of land 1)retty close to Horn's Hook, aKi ays avoiding the eddies. After passing Horn's Hook, Lcep as near t" Avith another. Take the same course with a sortherly wind, but with a northerly wind cross over to the <'(r.v/ side of HIackweirs Island, giving the Bread aud Cheese a wide berth. Tho greatest danger from the eildies of !{read and Cliees*- is on the ebb. The Kastern Chanucd is oidy safe with the wiud northward and westward, the line of true nirrent being vovy narrow. Shave Hallet's Point very closely, and steer with Flood Rock open on the starboard bow, a vesuel will apparently be ttcttiu); upon the rock, but • TIu> only I'lovntion on tlio vtiM nldo of Wunl's Inland. t Glbb'i Point, Long Isiuud, in Huulliwurd ul° iliu uurtli i)ulut of iiluckwell'i IaUuU. EAST EIVER AND HELL GATE. 153 nstances, er water. Quince's, id of the eive their mvenient , depth lit tide, and the Gate, diip with b-sti'eam he south- Channel. I narrow, the flood jtter and i the best the Hofj's 130 yards ;and close ^lill RoLk open tlie le south- f^e; steer Inhind) a ) Channel to reach rd of and inel. ir Nogro ick a^ain dward of I directly and the Mill and ndUibli'st ylander's the wind, 19 feet at After vithin (50 ig before take the ion. Go I's Hook, I I of land 8s over to th. The he line of ith Flood rock, but I. "when her bow gets within the influence of the true current, it will put her head directly through the channel. Vessels always get on the Gridiron from those on board not niaknig up their mind in time which channel to take; in light winds, steer for Ilallet's Point when abreast of Pot Hock ; for the Main Ship Channel when abreast of the Frying Pan. With ih^Jlood tide and a fair wind go either around Great Mill Rock or throu^rh the Middle Channel." Feom Neav York Northwards. — There are two passages from New York Bay and Hudson River, one to the southward and eastward of Governor's Island, named Huttermilk Channel, in the middle of which is a shoal of 14 feet, and the other between Governor's Island and the south point of the city, which is the better of the two and the most used, although the three sunken rocks. Diamond,* Prince, and Quince, are great and dangerous obstructions to it; yet as they generally appear by the rippling of the tide, and are buoyed, they may with care be easily avoided. The tide during the last quarter ebb, sets from the North or Hudson's River around Fort Point, and flows up the East River, at the rate of 3 knots; whence, with a like velocity, it returns 3 hours before the North River at high-water time. This is a great convenience to ships in shifting their berth from one river to the other. Ships of war may, during the summer season, ride in either river, in the stream ; in the winter they haul to, or moor between the wharves. When clear of the belbre-mentioned sunken rocks, keep as nearly as possible in mid-channel of East River, up to Hlackwell's Island. Blind Rock and Governor a Table i?ocA; extend S.W. 6tK) fathojns,ona range fr^m Blackwell Island. The channel on the west side of the island is clear, and throughout deep, a boat's length from the shores. There is a sunken rock two-thirds of the way up the channel, and about 30 fathoms from the starboard shore. Before you enter into either of the Blackwell Island Channels, if flood, let the tide be nearly spent; if ebb-tide, endeavour, by stemming the stream, which continues swift until a quarter of an hour before the turn of the tide, to reach Ilell Gate at low water slack, the most desirable time to get through. As you run up between Flood Rock, which is steep-to, and the point of Long Island, bear up nu)ie easterly, keeping the mid- channel. The least drain of tide will show the Hog's Back dangers on your port, and the Pot Rock on your starboard, by the uncommon ripple and boiling appearance of the water. Lieuts. Porter and Davis, U.S.N., give the following instructions to vessels passing TUUOUUII Hkll Gatk from TUE Soi'TIIWARU: — Flood tide. — "The channel east of Blackwell's Island is the best; vessels standing through the west channel run great danger of being carried by the current on to Middle Reef (extending north-west from Flood Rock). With a head wind, vessels may beat through Hell Gate, either by the East Channel, or with a commanding breeze, go round to the northward ot Great Mill Rock. lii the hitter case, a stretch very near Hog's Rack nuiy be made with safety. With a fair wind, small vessels may keep in the East Chamul, and in the main body of the current. Large vessels nmst go ihrougii the Main Ship Channel. In the Main Ship Chajmel, steer with the Great Mill Rock well open on the starboard bow, and stand past it far enough to avoid the edtlies, which extend about 30 yards to the northward of the n)ck ; steer then with the ripple of the Frying Pan one point on the port bow ; after passing the Frying Pan, haul up for Negro Point, passing clear of it about OO yards, then if a vessel kei'ps in the middle of the chamiel, the current will take her to the westward of the Middle Groinid olf Lawrence's Point. In entering Hell (Sato Irom the east side of Rlackwell's Island, take the middle of the channel, avuid'ng the eddies about Bread and Cheese, and those about Hatter's Dock, which show very plainly ; pass Astoria Feiry about 50 yards otf (on the star- board hand), and steer lor the centre of Flood Rock, this \\ ill put a vessel in the true flood tide when she is abreast Flojd Rock. From Flood Rock steer for an old house on Ward's Island (then bearing altout NK. } E.) with poplar trees in Iront of it, until nearly u[) with the ripple of the Frying Pan, when haul up or keep away for Negro Point, and proceed as lte(()re directed. Approaching Hell Gale through the west channel of IJlackweH's Island, do not attempt N • Wy bi'lli've that xotiK- iitttinplH liiive \wen nriil arc sfiU to Ih' iiiiulo to romovc this rock, which lias so ofU'H iiijiirud or entiirly dismliU-d tho-n- vrnsoU wliich Imvi- bwn forced upon it tliroiiRh th« quantity ol'sliiijpiujij or burgu* coustuiilly ims-Miiig to and from tho Kttiit llivur, uud thu* blycWtiig "P tliu fairway. 154 EAST EIVER AND HELL GATE. P to pass over to the Eastern Channel, unless the wind is fair and fresh, then stand across past Flood Rock until the old white building on Ward's Island opens to the right of it, when proceed as before directed. With a light wind from the westward a vessel is at the mercy of the current, and her only chance to avoid being drifted over on Cram's Bank (south-east of and opposite iNegro Point), is to hug the Frying Pan, passing only one length to the southward of it, and tack in towards Negro Point when it bears North, stand on only long enough to get headway on the vessel, tack again and keep the mid-channel. Entering Hell Gate (with no prospect of wind), anchor in Hallet's Cove* (south- eastward of Blackwell's North Point) to the northward of Thornburn's Dock, taking care not to let go the anchor with any headway on, as the ground is very rocky, and many anchors are lost at this place. In getting under way from Hallet's Cove, stand out due West from Thornburn's ; vessels i'requently stand too near Hatter's Dock, when they invariably strike on Bald Headed Billy, a round smooth rock dry at low water. In case a vessel is caught in tlie eddies of Bread and Cheese, the only chiince of avoid- ing the rocks is to stand through between Bread and Cheese and Blackwell's Point, a good 7-feet channel at low water, and about 50 yards wide. When, owing to light westerly or N.E. winds, vessels are drifted within the inflnence of the Pot eddies, they must inevitably go over on Cram's Bank and get on shore to the north of Wooisey's Bath House: to avoid this run into Pot Covef and anchor; the current turns into Pot Cove opposite Wooisey's Bath House, and will enable a vessel to reach good anchorage. Slackwater. — With a fair wind, take the East Channel. With a head wind, allow room for tacking when near Flood Rock, as a slight under-current often makes vessels miss stays, when they go upon the Gridiron. The longest tacks can be made by going to the northward of Groat Mill Rock, but a vessel this way is in danger of losing the slack water, which never lasts more than 10 minutes, and generally not more than 6 minutes. Ebb tide. — With a fair wind, keep along the shore near Hallet's Point to avoid the strength of the currents ; but alter passing this point, keep mid-channel to avoid the rocks off the southern extremity of Ward's Inland. Unless the wind, however, is very fresh, it is not advisable to attempt to pass through Hell Gate from the southward after the ebb tide has been running 20 minutes. Abreast of Hallet's Point, vessels meet the strong current which sets them back over on the Gridiron, and they must either go on shore or anchor at great risk." From Hell Gate to Throg's Neck the middle of the channel should be preserved, pass- ing over the Middle Ground between Marsh Island and Lawrence's Point, before men- tioned, and keeping along by the northern shore, leaving the North Brother aiid Uicker's Island on the starboard hand. The deepest water over the Middle Ground is near Marsh Island ; it has only 20 feet over its shallowest part, which is right in the fairway. Tides. — There is a ditlereiiee in the tides and tidal currents between Gove.nor's Island and Negro Point (Ward's Island), at the eastern entrance to Hell Gate, of about 2J hours. Between this point and Throg's Neck, near which the easterly and westerly cur- rents meet, the change is small. Hence through Long Island Somid, see "Tides," page 129. At Hell Gate it is high water on the full and change days of the moon at lOh.lOm.; springs range Oj, neaps A\ i'eet. At Throw's Nirk at lib. 20m.; springs range 0|, and neaps 6 liv . And at New York ((Jovernor's Island) at 8h. lUm. ; springs range 5^, and neaps 3^ feet. The nunn body of both tides passes on the east side of Ward's Island; off Negro Point Bluff the change from ebb to flood takes ))lace suddenly. With the ebb, which runs to the westward, the tidal current passes close to Pot l{ock ; the slack water lasts only a few minutes. South-eastward of the Flood Rock the current of ebb, which is de- ilected from Hallet's Point, and recoiling iVoin theGridiron, makes num<>rous eddies affect- ing its velocity ; its force is lost in the whirls, but the westward motion of the main body is uiiitbrin ; its greatest velocity is very close to Flood iJock— too close for a vessel to lie safely. Between Great Mill Rock and Ward's Island the ebb current runs a direct course, but that of the flood has numerous, though not violent eddies; the direction of 1 i ,1' The miiMlo of Hiillot's (.'ovc is occupied by a rocky patch of l.T.'» yardu iu extoiit, with only II bihI la Iffl wHti'i over it. t In doing Nu ri'miniU'r the position und depth over the 81u'li; fk-om North to Houth, and 104 yards in breadth, and, we believe, is marked by a buoy, whiuli •liuuld be loft on the port hand. '■i NEW YORK. 159 Nun huoys mark Gedney's Channel and the Mahi Ship Channels to the city ; can buoys mark the south channels of the bar and Swash Channel ; and sj)ar buoys the False Hook and East Channels. On entering the channels from seaward the red buoys must be left on the starboard, and black buoys on the port hand. Buoys with red and black horizontal stripes mark obstructions, and may be passed on either side. Buoys with white and black per- pendicular stripes will be found in mid-channel, and must be passed on either side close- to. Tides. — By observing the times of high and low water, it will be seen that they are very nearly the same all the way from Delaware lliver to Block Island and south of Nantucket; of course, not in the bays and harbours and up the rivers, but on the outer (toast. Consequently, vessels bound to New York and making the land in the vicinity of either of these places, and in sailing thence in the customary routes towards Sandy Hook, they will have the same succession of tides, within some 15 minutes, as if they remained off these points. So that leaving, for example, at high water, they would have, according to the elapsed time, the ebb and flood alternating every 6j hours, as if they had anchored off these positions. As the flood tide sets in generally to the northward and on shore, and the ebb the contrary, they will know by the time that elapses from their departure, and the period of tide at which they started, what tidal currents they may expect to meet with as they approach New York. The following particulars relative to the tides in New York Bay are the result of the observations made by the oflicers engaged in the United States Coast Survey. High water on the days of full and change at Sandy Hook at 7h. 29m. Rise of the highest tide observed above the plane of reference, May 30th, 1836, during a heavy gale from E.N.E 8ft. lin. Height of mean low water, above the plane of reference 1 Height of mean high water, above the plane of reference 5 9.6 Mean rise and fall of tides 4 9.6 Mean rise and fall of spring tides 6 3.4 Mean rise and fall of neap tides .' 3 9.8 High water on the days of full and change at Governor's Island at 8h. 19m. Rise of highei't tide observed above the plane of reference, October 31st, 1837 7ft. 4in. Height of mean low water, above the plane of reference 10.3 Height of mean high water, above the plane of reference 5 7 Mean rise and fall of tides 4 8.7 Mean rise and fall of spring tides 5 8 Mean rise and fall of neap tides 3 8,7 The mean duration of flood and ebb tides, reckoning from the middle of one slack- water to the middle of the next, from observations made in 1811, is — At Sandy Hook flood 5h. 59ra. „ , ebb 6 1 ,, slack-water at flood 22 „ slock-wdter at ebb 20 At Governor's Island flood 5 57 „ ebb 6 17 „ slack- water at flood 29 „ slack-water at ebb 28 The following observations on the direction and force of the currents in the harbour and vi(;inity ol' New York were made in 1844, by Lieutenant Charles H. Davis, of the United States Navy. The rate is in miles per hour, the bearings those of the true compass, and the observations were made as much as possible when the influence of the wind was small :— 160 NEW TOEK» I ,t; I'i;:; m I I [Ml- M ■ hkh w i.'t' i i m m m mi STATIONS, lat Quarter. 2nd Quarter. 3rd Quarter. Flood or Ebb, Direction. 2 Direction. "S M 0.9 Direction. 0* ' hcivigation are Gedney's and the Main Ship Channel, in which are 23 feet at mean j' v v f.u4f, or the South and Swash Channels, with 21 and 17 feet respectively. Entering by Gedney's and the Main Ship Channels, steer T^.W. ^ W. from the Ughtvessel for the black and white perpendicular-striped nun buoy at the entrance of the former, then W. bv N. 1^ mile, or till the two range lights nciar Point Comfort* come in line, bearing about W. by S., when you must haul up for them on that bearing, and continue till the two Main Channel lights, just westward of the Highlands of Navesink, are brought in range, nearly S. by W., which will also be shown by the main light on Sandy Hook being open south of the West Beacon. Steer now, with these latter lights in line over the stern, about N. by E., which will lead up towards the Narrows, clear of West Bank and Craven's Shoal. As soon as Kobin s Reef light bears N. by W., shape a course for it, passing in mid-channel through the Narrows (see I^ote at foot of page 158), and when about 2 of a mile from the lighthouse haul up N.E. by N, for the city. Entering by the South and Swash Channels, steer from the lightvessel W. by N., until the Elm Tree or Swash Channel range lights on Staten Island, which can be seen outside the bar, come in a line bearing about N.W. ^ N., then steer towards them till the red can buoy (No. 8), which marks the" Upper Middle," is passed, or till the Main Ship Channel range (lights in one, nearly S. by W.) is on, when haul up on that range towards the Narrows, and proceed as before. Vessels drawing more than 17 feet should not be taken through the Swash Channel on the above range at low water. Having proceeded on the line of the Elm Tree lights from the South Channel bar to where the Aroint Comfort lights are in one, the direction of th.) latter may be followed, and the Main Channel lights brought in line as before, if drawing too much water to pass through the Swash Channel. The False Hook Channel, safe though narrow, runs along the eastern side of Sandy Hook, between it and the Outer Middle, the Oil Spot, and False Hook Shoals. From 15 to 18 feet of water can be carried through at the distance of \ of a mile or so from the shore ; but as no good ranges can be given, this passage should only be attempted hy those acquainted. The shoalest part of the shoals, namely 12 feet on Oil Spot, lies f of a mile off shore, and S.E. by E. \ E. from the main lighthouse on the Hook. The East Channel has its entrance about one mile northward of Gedney's, and runs in nearly parallel to that and Swash Channel, being separated from them by the Dry Romer, &c. ; it is safe for vessels of light draught, but is very little used, as tne ranges are distant ard uncertain, and the East Bank shoals up very suddenly. The Fourteen Feet Channel, about 2\ miles from the shore of Coney Island, is narrow, winding, and without leading marks or buoys. It is the northernmost of the channels into New York Bay, and but very seldom used. For a description of the East River from Long Island Sound to New York) see page 151, * A stranger, when up with the buo7 at the entrance of Gredney's Channel, may cross the bar in 21 feet water by bringing the East Beacon on Sandy Hook in line with the inner (or Wilson's) light at Point Comfort, nearly W. \ S. When the water deepens again to 4 fathoms, steer to the northward, so as to bring Gedney's Range Lights on to pass the Hook. THE END. tORDOK : SAVILIi AKD XDWARDS, rRINISRS, 0HAND03 8IRBCT. to decrease } advisable mind that dney's and South and . from the jntrance of Comfort* at bearing, ^hlands of wn by the now, with owards the Reef light e Narrows se haul up W. byN., ich can be jr towards passed, or m haul up more than nge at low mel bar to e followed, h water to e of Sandy lis. Prom 10 from the attempted I Oil Spot, use on the Iney's, and rom them very littld Is up very ley Island, rthernmost ew York> IS the bar in or Wilson's) steer to the