IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I Ul 125 122 12.2 ^ 13.6 ^M US IL25 IH 1.4 ■ 20 Vl v. ^ / ^J^'.^ ^J" ■^' Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WiST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) 872-4503 ^v ^^ <> [v <*>. cS^ , (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol y (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: L'exemplaire film* fut reproduit grAce h la gAnArosit* de: La bibliothdque des Archives pubiiques du Canada Les images suivantes ont tx^ reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet* de l'exemplaire film«, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. 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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. by errata led to ent jne pelure, 'apon d 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 I 4 PRIVATE JOURNAL. LONDON : PKINTKI) HV THOMAS UAVISON, WlinuFHIAKS. V rt THK PRIVATE JOURNAL or CAPTArN (J. F. LVON, OF 11. M. S. HECI.A, I nuiiiNG THE RECENT VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY UNDER CAPTAIN PARRY. WITH A MAP AND PLATES. LONDON : JOHN MURRAY, ALIiEMAKLE-STREET \m\'. I IIA Ol TO CAPTAIN W. K. PAinn , irNDEU WIIOSK COMMAND Or THE EXPEDITION FOR THE IHSCOVERY OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGK, I irAVE HAD THE HEARTFELT SATISFACTION OF SERVING, AND WHOSE FRIENDSHIP I AM PROUD TO POSSESS, THESE RECOLLECTIONS OF THE DAYS WE HAVE HAPPILY PASSED TOGETHER, ARE INSCRIBED BY HIS SINCERE AND GRATEFUL FRIEND, GEO. F. LYON. lake Pi'cl'a more Aiitli( 1 strc at th( view, its fa with i w^ritte lire-si< that it ^hape PREFACE. I*i:i{ii.\rs tluTo are not many readers wlio lake the troul)lc of casting an eye over a Preface, knowing that it is usually neither more nor less than a sort of appeal from the Author to the Public. Notwithstanding this, I strongly feel the necessity of placing one at the head of my little journal, with the view, 1 confess, of bespeaking something in lis favour from those who may honour it with a perusal ; assuring them that it was written solely for the amusement of my own tire-side, and without the most distant idea that it would ever see the light in any other ^ihape than that of its original manuscript. :{ VUl I'llEFACK Being sent with the other journals to the Admiralty, in obedience to Captain Parry's instructions, my friend Mr. Barrow, in re- turning it to me, advised me strongly to publish it, on account of the number of little anecdotes it contained relative to the habits and disposition of a people entirely separated from the rest of the world, and with whom we had for so great a length of time kept up an intimate and constant intercourse. He observed also, as an additional in- ducement, that Captain Parry, in his au- thentic and official account of the expedi- tion, had not deemed it fit or necessary to enter into many of those minute and pecu- liar traits which are requisite for displaying the character of a strange, people. Captain Parry's opinion on this subject agreeing with Mr. Barrow's, I could no longer hesi- tate; and therefore, after a few abbrevia- tions, and the omission of some details of I' I'llEFACK. IX s to the Parry*s , in re- ngly to [iber of ! to the entirely Id, and ngth of onstant natural history, and of scientific observa- tions, I sent the original manuscript to the printer. This is the brief history of my private gossiping journal, thus making its appearance before the Public, on whose kindness and indulgence I now beg to throw myself. G. V. L. nal in- his au- expedi- isary to I pecu- Dlaying !iJaptain freeing jr hesi- brevia- ;ails of Dt'JK Expc Fa D.I Pa Pa sto Ships Ol Ai Esl arr Ml Wolf Joi (; O N T E N r 8. CHAPTER I. Depiirturc from England page CHAPTER H. Expedition to examine Hurd's Channel — Anchor within it — Farther examination — Gore Bay discovered — Red snow — Dangers of Hurd's Channel— Enter a large inlet — Captain Parry's absence in boats — He meets with natives — Captain Parry's second absence and return — Approach of winter — Ships stopped by young ice — Cut into and take winter quarters 5G CHAPTER HI. Ships take their winter quarters — Theatricals — The school — Observatory built — Foxes — Shortest day — Christmas — The Aurora — New year — Arctic fox — Wine frozen — Arrival of the Eskiniaux, and a pack of wolves — Snow houses — Interior arrangement — Tattooing — Honesty of the natives — Frost bites Luxuries — Manner of sewing — Boldness of the wolves — Music — Arnalooa 87 CHAPTER IV. Wolf caught — The snufF-box— Seals caught — Voracious feeding — The marines — Okotook and Iligliak — An eclipse — Ayookitt —Walrus killed— The 13th, wolf killed— Charts obtained— Journey across the island — A dance — Kettle and the spirit — Beef stolen 137 1 \ll CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. Natives clianjTo tlicir stations — Gluttony — DoPcrtod lints — Tlic first tliaw — Arrival of birds — Land expedition — Snow blindness — Snow storm — Return to the ships — Deatli of a seuniaii — Deer are seen — Singular phenomenon — Canal completed — The gardens — yXppearancc of the island — Death of two seamen — Ice breaks up, and we leave the island . . page 1 "H CHAPTER VI. Leave Winter Island — Dangerous navigation — The coast — Bar- row River — Walrus Idilod — New natives — Land at Igloolik — Tents — Inli;il)it;iiits — Bad weather — Hospitality of natives — State of the ice — l>one huts — Salmon procured — Land journey with Toolemak — Sledges — Fires — A ball — The koonik — Re- turn on board . 214 CHAPTER VH. Enter strait of Fury a:id Hecla — Land journeys— State of the season — Rears killed — Liddun Island — Andierst Island — Ex- amine state of the ice — A cave — Extraordinary currents — Seek winter quarters — Igloolik — Ice huts — An anchor lost — Ships frozen in ........ 2G2 CHAPTER VIH. Annatko — A man beats his wives — Geographical intelligence — Strangers arrive — White wolf — Sun leaves us for forty-two days — Toolemak's hut — Christmas-day — Distresses of the natives — Effect of the climate . ■ . 286 CHAPTER IX. Persons of Eskimaux — Their dress and ornaments — Occupalums of the women — Canoes — Sledges— Weapons — Hunting on the ice — Dogs — Land animals — Wolf-traps — Fishing — Geogra - phical knowledge— General tlisposition — Marriages — Estima CONTENTS. Xlll nits— Tlic I'bliiulnoss scMinaii — L»tc(l — The seamen — page 1 7i^ last — Bar- lijloolik — natives — 1(1 journey Dnik — Re- 211 ate (»f the land — Ex- nts — Seek )St — Ships . 2G2 lligenco — forty-two 5 of the 286 tion of women— Treatment of ehihlrcn — Conduet to the aged, tn the sick, ;md the dea«l — Superstitions . page 30f) CHAPTER X. New Year's-day — Anecdotes (»f bears — The sun returns — Drift ^vood — A sick woman and chihl — They die — Visit to the grave — Man eaten by dogs — Kaglia — Her deatli— A theft — Visit distant huts — Specimens of eating — Scurvy — Death of IMr. Khler — Arrangements for Fury to remain another year — Too- lemak drunk — Aj)pcarancc of vegetation — Strangers arrive — V anity of a woman — Togorlat's en water yoeii, and an ollinjf made — Passage down Hudson's Strait and across the i\tluntic — Arrival asid hospitable receptioti at Lerwick . . . 444 cciipations ng on the — Geogra- — Estima DIllECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES. Man and Woman of tlie Savage Islands - Oomiak, or Woman's Boat Snow Village - - - - - . Dancing Party - - - _ Eskimaux Men of Igloolik - - . . Eskimaux Women of Igloolik - . . The last Appearance of the Sun, as Frontispiece To face Page - 17 - 41 - Ill ■ 170 - 311 • 315 tuMMini ,ht t/tr ttft tfirrrf^ Jti/i " tS^.f. hj ./f/i i .V"ri'>!i,.Hhr "T^ n- 0*)onrr.U (J* hart I "v X -1. 1 A^. \ r~--i H- , 1 i-s', , ' / < ^ , .lit. /.s'.'/ v.- -.'.;. , ,„,.■-'"'■' / I ,.. \ ,..•" ....•("'■' •■. y 't V \ \. \ / ^ \ > V V' .... \ \ V \ \ \ y \ S r ^-^.^,v' •^iiftii .ti" (lit c- 1 ....^^■n \ '\ s 1 r-^ ~fl£'^' ,,.-\'' ■■^'•— K ' ...111 \ ,i.,tr .Utr' ^%., .^S;:^-' Sl>li>l"»'.' XS l^l^l p.T— -^,j^. "— >■ •linlM !/„■ art Mrrrt^ Jim '/A?v Iv.M ' ■Vi„i-,:i,.tll^„,„il,S/r^ll.,^„li,„ f.otinfittii/r Itf^f lh• little pouches, &c. ; and from the children were pro- cured sniciU toys and models, their parents directing them in their bargains and beggings also. There was one little child, who, having no merchandize to dispose of, ran about holding up the red legs of a dovekie, in hopes that their colour might attract a customer; but meeting with no success, the poor little trader was returning disconsolate to his mother, when a button which I gave him put the poor child quite into raptures, and underwent more kissing than button ever received before. Both sexes eagerly sold their clothes, and some went away nearly naked, notwithstanding the severity of the weather. I must however say, in justice to the softer sex, that they were more correct in the choice of what parts of their clothing they would dispose of, than the men ; for I do not remember to have seen a single lady part with her breeches, while the gentlemen were by no means so scrupulous, and evinced no shame at appearing nearly naked. A nail was considered a fair equivalent for a spear with ivory head, and with line and bladder attached to it. Small pieces of iron hoop were equally valuable ; and a knife might purchase any article. Saws, how- ever, were the most eagerly inquired for; and, had any been produced at first, nothing else would have been taken. In all exchanges the natives showed as much joy as if they had acquired the greatest riches, although in many instances they were losers by the bargain. V ( 1 u DKSi'UllTION OF Till-: NATIVKS I It I had every reafson to suppose tliat a womaTi would uctually luive sold her child to u marine who was ottering a knife for it ; and, on mentioning the cir- cumstance on hoard, IVIr. Sherer assured me that a man and woman had heen very pressing for him to huy a hahy also. Our ignorance, at the time, of the language and customs of these people, might have led us into error in this respect, although appearances were as 1 have stated. The strangers were so well pleased in our society, that they showed no wish to leave us, and, when the nuuket had quite ceased, they hegan dancing and playing with our people on the ice alongside : this exercise again set many of their noses hleeding (which at their first arrival we had ohserved to be the case), and discovered to us a most nasty custom, which ac- counted for their gory faces ; jind which was, that as fast as the blood lan down, they scraped it with the fingers into their mouths, appearing to consider it as a refreshment or dainty, if we might judge by the zest with which they smacked their lips at each sup- ply. Some of the most quiet came on board the ship, and behaved very well ; while others walked quietly alongside, gazing occasionally at the men, but more frequently at some quarters of Old English beef, which were hanging over the stern, and had a most attractive appearance. Some slices were cut off* and thrown down to them, and these they instantly devoured with great satisfaction ; but they refused to eat the biscuit which was offered at the same time. One OF TIIK SAVAdK ISLANDS. Of: woman in particuljir attnictcd f^eneral notice by her unwearied application for presents, and by feifpniiif^ to be hurt, and cryinj^ to excite compassion ; in which she no sooner succeeded, than a loud and triumphant laujrh proclaimed the cheat. Of all horrible yells, this laugh was tlie most fiend-like 1 ever heard ; and her countenance corres])onde(l with her voice. She had lost all her front teeth, with the exception of the eye-teeth ; her mouth was plentifully ornamented by blue tattoo-lines ; and a vast profusion of black, straij^ht, and matted hair, hung all round her head and face. At her back was an imp not more pre- possessing in features than herself, and screaming itself black in the face. Although the countenances of the other young children were generally rather pretty than otherwise, yet, from their dress and man- ner of walking, they might, without any great stretch of the iuuigination, have been taken for the cubs of wild animals ; particularly some who were laid for safety in the bottom of the women's boats, amongst blubber, the entrails of seals, &c. of which they were continually sucking whatever was nearest to them. In order to amuse our new acquaintances as much as possible the fiddler was sent on the ice, where he instantly found a most delighted set of dancers, of whom some of the women kept pretty good time. Their only figure consisted in stamping and jumping with all their might. Our musician, who was a lively fellow, soon caught the infection, and began 26 DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES cuttlnjT capers also. In a short time every one on the floe, officers, men, and savages, were dancing together, and exhibited one of the most extra- ordinary sights I ever witnessed. One of our sea- men, of a fresh ruddy complexion, excited the ad- miration of all the young females, who patted his face and danced round him wherever he went. I was half inclined to suppose they fancied him a woman, although he was nearly six feet high, and stout in proportion. I am sorry to give but a bad account of the morals of our visitors, some of whom were very importunate in offering their wives in ex- change for a knife, and the women as anxiously pressing the bargain. The exertion of dancing so exhilarated the Eski- maux, that they had the appearance of being boisterously drunk, and played many extraordinary pranks. Amongst others, it was a favourite joke to run slily behind the seamen, and, shouting loudly in one ear, to give them at the same time a very smart slap on the other. While looking on, I was sharply saluted in this manner, and, of course, was quite startled, to the great amusement of the by-standers : the joke consist- ing in making the person struck look astonished, which, as may be supposed, was always the result. Our cook, who was a most active and unwearied jumper, became so great a favourite, that every one boxed his ears so soundly, as to oblige the poor man Ol' THE SWAGE ISLANDS. f>7 to retire from such boisterous marks of approbation. Amongst other sports, some of tlic Esklmaux rather rouglily, but with great good humoin-, challenged our people to wrestle. One man, in particular, who had thrown several of his countrymen, attacked an officer of a very strong make, but the poor savage was instantly thrown, and with no very easy fall ; yet although every one was laughing at him, he bore it with exemplary good humour. The same officer afforded us much diversion, by teaching a large party of women to bow, curtsy, shake hands, turn their toes out, and perform sundry other polite accomplishments ; the whole party, master and pupils, preserving the strictest gravity. As sailors seldom fail to select some whimsical object on whom to pass their jokes, they soon found one in the person of an ugly old man, possessing a great stock of impudence, and a most comic coun- tenance. He had sold all his clothes, with the ex- ception of his breeches, and in this state they made him parade the decks, honoured by the appellation of king. Some rum was offered to this exalted per- sonage, but he spat it out again with signs of great disgust. In order to show him that it might be drank, one of the seamen was told to finish the glass, but he refused to touch it ** after such a brute." The boat- swain, however, with much humour and a knowing look, stepped forward, saying, " Here, hand me the glass, I '11 drink with the gentleman," and nodding a J28 nKSiUIi'llON ()!•' TIIK NATlVkS health, which was veturncd by our kiii^, he drank off the gro«T. Sugar was offered to many of the grown people, wlio disliked it very much, and, to our surprise, the young children were e(|ually averse to it. Towards midnight all our men, except tlie watch on deck, turned in to their beds, and the fatigued and hungry Ivskimaux returned to their boats to take their supper, which consisted of lumi)s of raw ffesh and Idubber of seals, birds, entrails, &c. ; licking their fingers with great zest, and with knives or fingers scraping the blood and grease which ran down their chins into their mouths. I walked quietly round to look at the different groupes, and in one of the women's boats I observed a young girl, whom we had generally allowed to be tlie belle of the party, busily employed in tearing a slice from the belly of a seal, and biting it inf o small pieces for distribution to those around her. 1 also re- marked that the two sexes took their meal apart, the men on the ice, tlie women sitting in their boats. At midnight they all left us, so exhausted by their day's exertions, that they were quite unable either to scream or laugh. The men paddled slowly away, and the women rowed off with half their party asleep. A few went only to a piece of floating ice astern, where they lay down for the night, while the others made their way to the shore, which was about eight miles distant. OF TITK SAVAr.K TSf.ANnS. 21) Diiiiiif^ tlu' wliolc time tliosc people remained, they appeared to plaee the most implieit eoiilidenee in the lionesty of our men, and when the canoes were hauled up on the ice they lel't them un])rotecte(l, and wan- dered ahout, without any fear that the iron or other articles which they contained shouhl he stok'n from them. Some of our peoph* took the canoes and pad- dled ahout, to the great annisement of their owners, wlio feared no damage being done to them. During the time our people lay off in the boats, tliey afforded much diversion, by calling the New- foundland dog to them, and making him fetch and carry. This animal had at first caused some alarm by running playfully after the children, and pulling their tails, but the dread soon wore off. My black cat was considered a far more formidable animal, and I could persuade no one to touch it. A few instiinces of dishonesty occurred where iron lay neglected in view ; but it is scarcely to be wondered that such a temptation should prove irre- sistible : had small golden bars been thrown in the streets of London, how would they have fared? In drawing out this long account of one visit, my prolixity maybe excused, when I state, that it is merely intended to amuse my own fire-side circle ; yet, volu- minous as it is, I have witheld any account of the stature, and general appearance of the people ; or any description of their boats and instruments, being cer- tain of seeing more of them. In the mean time, however, it may not be uninteresting to quote the 30 DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES. i! brief but accurate description of them as given by that able old navigator John Davies, in the year 1586. " The people are of good stature, well pro- portioned, with small slender hands and feet, broad visages, small eyes, wide mouths, the most part un- bearded, great lips and close teethed ; they are much given to bleed, and therefore stop their noses with deer's hair, or that of an elan. They are very simple in their conversation, but marvellously given to thieving, especially of iron ; they did eat all their meat raw." On the morning of the 23d we remained nearly beset; yet although there was scarcely an opening amongst the ice, the indefatigable Eskimaux again paid us a visit. One solitary canoe first reached us, and the owner finding no competitors, and that he was likely to have the market to himself, with great shrewdness exhibited only one article at a time, and kept at such a distance from the siiip, as to preclude all possibility of our overlooking his cargo. He however trifled so long as to lose all his customers, and was quite in despair on seeing several more canoes coming off. Every thing he possessed was now drawn from his boat and pressingly offered, and amongst other things he produced a fine unicorn's horn, which, of course, readily found a purchaser. Two large Oomiak's (women, or family boats) at length came alongside, filled with women and young children, and steered, as we had before observed to be the ciise, each by an old man. These people were no fi TASSAGE UP HUDSON S STRAIT. 31 at mg be no sooner alongside than they commenced singing and dancing with great vehemence ; and to my surprise an old blind woman joined in the merriment with as great apparent delight as her companions. In this boat was a man who had lost one of his arms. Several single canoes hung alongside by ropes which were thrown to them, and in this state, with a fresh breeze, we ran until we came amongst some heavy ice, when our visitors were warned to take pre- cautions against being jammed. Such, however, was their ardour for barter, that we could neither induce them to move, or to pay attention to our signs, and as to hearing us amidst their own din, it was impossible. At length, as we expected, a woman's boat was badly stove by a piece of ice cutting one of the bottom skins. Silence immediately ensued, and it was pleasing to observe the attention which was paid to the sufferers by all the men, who left off trading, and assisted to haul the damaged boat on a piece of ice for the purpose of repairing her, and even those who could not be of any service remained behind with the rest. After a time, a fine lively boy, in a most elegant white canoe, came paddling up to us, and keeping way with the ship, endeavoured to insinuate himself into our good graces, by talking and laughing incessantly. He succeeded to his wish, and was enriched by presents of buttons, nails, beads, and pieces of old iron, all of which he acknowledged by a peculiarly joyous C17, at the same time cramming them into his ' 33 PASSAGE UP HUDSON'S STKAIT. II' mouth. When this store-house was filled, he made as long a speech as his riches would permit, and turning for the shore, parted from us with the swift- ness of an arrow. On the 24th, to our infinite astonishment, we did not see a single piece of ice, and in consequence beat up to the N. W. without interruption, until the evening of the 25th, when we were off the Upper Savage Island. Parties here landed from each ship, and the requisite observations being taken, we all set out on excursions to explore the island. It is high and rocky, principally of a reddish granite, but pro- ducing also gneiss and sandstone. Its length is about three miles, its breadth two. Near where we landed were quantities of bones, which we conjectured to be those of the walrus. Much frozen snow lay in the clefts of the rocks, whence issued small streams of water. On the top of the isle were many pools beautifully transparent, near one of which a grouse (tetrao lago- pus), in summer plumage, was killed. In the marshy ground, near the water, the vegetation was extremely luxuriant. Amidst the various mosses and grasses, the delicate white flower of the andromeda, and brilliant yellow poppy, were eminently conspicuous. In drier places, a beautiful species of butter-cpp was very abundant, as was also the dwarf willow, of which I had heard so much, but had never seen before. This arctic tree grows close to the ground, and spreads its lilliputian branches over an extent of from one to three feet. Its stalk rarely exceeds PASSAGK UP HUDSON'S STRAIT. 33 three inches in circumference, and all the wood is twisted and deformed. On many of the higher parts of tlie rock were piled small heaps of stones, near one of which I found part of a human skull. Two hares and several little snow buntins were seen. Fragments of a whale's skeleton, driftwood^ and ivory, marked by instruments, showed that Eskimaux had at some time been settled here ; and fire-places were also seen by many of our party. Footsteps of some cloven-footed animal, probably the rein-deer, were frequently met with. Moskitoes were very numerous, as were also common flies. Amongst the lichens, I observed a very diminutive insect resembling a mite in figure, but possessing great activity of motion. It was of the most brilliant scarlet, and tinged the fingers of the same hue when taken between them ; being, on account of its extreme delicacy, instantly crushed. On the 27th, ^8th, and until the evening of the ^9th, when we were beset, we made some little pro- gress as the various state of the weather and ice per- mitted. The aurora borealis was once seen during this time in the west. It was faint, and did not ex- hibit any interesting peculiarities of appearance. A small drag net, let down to the bottom in 64 fathoms, procured for us some interesting specimens of moluscae, and several beautifully delicate varieties of white coral. Amongst the polypi was one of a very singular description, and of a pale pink colour. On being taken into the hand it threw out several D '4'\< I'ASSAGK UP HUDSON'S STRAIT. i I,- ! small balls of various sizes from that of a hemp seed to the bigness of a white currant, which fruit they almost exactly resembled in colour, transparency, and consistence. Their form was perfectly globular ; and, even with the aid of a microscope, I could discover no opening in them. Some, on being boiled, became soft and flabby, although they did not burst ; and others, which I put in spirits, retained to a certain ex- tent their first appearance. With the above animals many fragments of stone were brought from the bottom, and these consisted of granite, gneiss, red feldspar, and limestone. Great quantities of seals were seen during the day in active chase of each other in the water, which the seamen call a seal's wedding. The 30th, and great part of the 31st, we were so enveloped in fog as to be under the necessity of keeping company by signal guns, and during the whole of this time had a most favourable wind, of which in this unknown coast we dared not take ad- vantage. When it cleared, however, we again made some progress along shore, and in the evening saw Cape Dorset and Salisbury Island. While off^ the first of these places we observed several canoes using every exertion to come up with us, and we waited to receive theln. Eight kayaks (men's canoes) and one oomiak soon joined, but were very unwilling to come near us. A boat was therefore lowered from each ship to go to them, and purchase curiosities, as well as a supply of oil for the use of the ships. Ail the men wore jackets entirely composed of the skins of VISIT FKOM THE NATIVES. ii5 birds, having tlic feathers next the body. This dress appeared to have undergone no more curing than in scraping the fat from the inside of the skins, and afterwards drying tliem. The women were clothed as our former visitors, but their dresses appeared neither so good, clean, or neatly sewed. Both sexes, however, had cleaner faces, or much fairer complexions ; and such is taste, and so singularly it varies, that there was one of the young girls whom we considered as very pretty. I was happy in being able to see the sail of the oomiak, which was lug-shaped, and formed of the intestines of walrus, sewed together with great neat- ness, in breadths of about four inches. The mast, which was placed well forward, was made of wood, and had a very neatly formed ivory sheave for the halyards to run on. In this boat we found but little to purchase, with the exception of oil. Another com- modity however was offered, in the shape of a young child, which, as it really appeared, the mother would have sold me. I had a knife, and a piece of iron in my hand, and with the latter wished to purchase a seal's skin, but the woman having taken a fancy to the knife, endeavoured to obtain it by alternate offers of seals' skins and bags of oil. At length, of her own accord, she lifted up a little child, of about four years of age, and apparently a girl, offering it with one hand^and holding out the other to receive the knife. Can it be possible that in three instances I should have been mistaken,and that the women would not sell their infants ? All I can learn of these people certainly gives them great D *^ I H Mi VISIT I'llOM THK NATIVES S' \f praise for affection to their children. This however may at some future time be cleared up. An old man had charge of the ladies as usual, and was not very ceremonious with them, giving to those who stood in his way pretty smart shoves and blows with his elbows. Amongst the traders was one man who afforded much amusement by lying at a short distance, and holding up a raw and bloody piece of blubber, for which he demanded a nail in exchange; showing at the same time his high sense of the value of this equivalent by uttering loud cries, and licking the inviting morsel with as many smacks of the lips, and expressions of satisfaction, as a young child would discover while attacking a rich sweetmeat. There was another man, who possessed a far ipore enticing piece of goods, aline unicorns horn ; but when he had received a piece of iron in exchange for it, he, with a shout of triumph, shoved off, without giving up the horn. He appeared perfectly insensible to all our stratagems to •allure him alongside, and in vain were glittering knives and other treasures displayed for this purpose. During this time the other poor wretches were eagerly selling all their possessions, and stripping themselves of every article of dress which could find a purchaser. We at length made sail, when our friend of the horn ran up alongside, and sold it for a knife to the man he had first cheated ; but in this last instance he again attempted to escape with his prize The horn was six feet in length, and weighed lylbs. . OF CAPE DOHSKT. 3i In this ?;■ , .uiu ii.:t nlntu ■ arc •■';!'':-l ^ ,, xiul i>?!(' I . t.viMi liy flu.' })i rsoii snii ,.'■ .:- • 't^tb^ hour ;*it? thtt, 't fj nhoui H, ci, ^ -'-J -t , . _;-; ^ ■«■> . 1 .' ■ !i"iaj/!Hr>'»U', utiil s^ii^W ^<'rv vrrv lB^»:^ ■^*'] liertNW »5u>i;.-' ;«;■ 'iiivv -«. |vr|*^«-irt iinn-'tu- T'ui * «'i4a#;h riwni-i, ''^ a!'''i|^Ui-'d t'' *Sr • i,>i-'A :l -W' ih,]U iii^ MH'-H t'^-i. 'Mo- t .->■. { •.,«:->, .'■ . •^v^j^j :f Cfc v.?,'.. t:*^'** .1. ft 'i %. I Ol CAl»K DOUSKT. 41 Hudson's Bay, and as we might not again meet with a woman's boat, I shall here describe it as well as I am able. The oomiak (umiak, Greenland), or luggage boat, is chiefly used, according to Crantz, for the purpose of removing the effects of families in their excursions during the summer season. The frame-work is of wood and whalebone, the bottom flat, and both head and stern nearly square. The skins which cover the frame are of the seal, and deprived of hair ; they are at all times somewhat transparent, but more parti- cularly so when wetted. Seats, to the amount of five or six, are placed in the boat as with Europeans. Two very clumsy oars, with flat blades, are pulled by the women, and one is used by the person who steers. The sides of the bout are flat, and about three feet high ; they vary much in size. Of those which came off the first time, there was one which measured twenty- five feet by eight, and contained women, boys, and small children, to the amount of twenty-one persons. On the morning of the 2d we had run out of sight of the land. The refraction of the horizon was ob- served to be more than usually great. During the forenoon we came to much ice, whose motion was extremely impetuous : each piece, whatever might be its magnitude, and some were very large and heavy, appeared to have an independent impetus, and the noise with which they rushed together, resembled the sound of a torrent of water. We were at this time near the spot which, in the charts, is assigned to the Mill Islands, but did not see them ; this name was i' 4i> VASS THK MILL ISLANDS. I jj;iv(Mi thoin by Bartin in Kil.'), "by reasoiiof grinding tlic ice," a circumstance which has been noticed by other navigators. We found the tides to be mipetuous and irreguhu' ; and when the ice slackened a Httle, so as to allow of our making some progress, we observed that, although the ship was going three knots tinough the water, several large j)ieces of ice, whicli drew more tlian tlie ships, were lieading us as if we liad been at anchor. From all that I could observe during the time we were on this innnediate spot, 1 am inclined to believe that on this site is the coiiHux of two op- |)Osing tides, which occasion the extraordinary eddies amongst the ice. From this day until the