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Hiotographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WiST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO

(716) 872-4503

<*>.

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4£.

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32X

PRIVATE JOURNAL.

LONDON :

PKINTKI) HV THOMAS UAVISON, WlinuFHIAKS.

THK

PRIVATE JOURNAL

CAPTArN (J. F. LVON,

OF 11. M. S. HECI.A,

nuiiiNG

THE RECENT VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY UNDER
CAPTAIN PARRY.

WITH A MAP AND PLATES.

LONDON :

JOHN MURRAY, ALIiEMAKLE-STREET

\m\'.

I IIA

CAPTAIN W. K. PAinn ,

irNDEU WIIOSK COMMAND Or

THE EXPEDITION

FOR THE

IHSCOVERY OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGK,
I irAVE HAD THE HEARTFELT SATISFACTION OF SERVING,

AND

WHOSE FRIENDSHIP I AM PROUD TO POSSESS,

THESE RECOLLECTIONS

OF THE DAYS WE HAVE HAPPILY PASSED TOGETHER,

ARE INSCRIBED

BY HIS SINCERE AND GRATEFUL FRIEND,

GEO. F. LYON.

lake

Pi'cl'a

Aiitli(

1 strc

at th(

view,

its fa

with i

w^ritte

lire-si<

that it

^hape

PREFACE.

I*i:i{ii.\rs tluTo are not many readers wlio
lake the troul)lc of casting an eye over a
Preface, knowing that it is usually neither
more nor less than a sort of appeal from the
Author to the Public. Notwithstanding this,
I strongly feel the necessity of placing one
at the head of my little journal, with the
view, 1 confess, of bespeaking something in
lis favour from those who may honour it
with a perusal ; assuring them that it was
written solely for the amusement of my own
tire-side, and without the most distant idea
that it would ever see the light in any other
^ihape than that of its original manuscript.

VUl

I'llEFACK

Being sent with the other journals to the
Admiralty, in obedience to Captain Parry's
instructions, my friend Mr. Barrow, in re-
turning it to me, advised me strongly to
publish it, on account of the number of
little anecdotes it contained relative to the
habits and disposition of a people entirely
separated from the rest of the world, and
with whom we had for so great a length of
time kept up an intimate and constant
intercourse.

He observed also, as an additional in-
ducement, that Captain Parry, in his au-
thentic and official account of the expedi-
tion, had not deemed it fit or necessary to
enter into many of those minute and pecu-
liar traits which are requisite for displaying
the character of a strange, people. Captain
Parry's opinion on this subject agreeing
with Mr. Barrow's, I could no longer hesi-
tate; and therefore, after a few abbrevia-
tions, and the omission of some details of

I'llEFACK.

s to the
Parry*s
, in re-
ngly to
[iber of
! to the
entirely
Id, and
ngth of
onstant

natural history, and of scientific observa-
tions, I sent the original manuscript to the
printer. This is the brief history of my
private gossiping journal, thus making its
appearance before the Public, on whose
kindness and indulgence I now beg to throw
myself.

G. V. L.

nal in-
his au-
expedi-
isary to
I pecu-
Dlaying
!iJaptain
freeing
jr hesi-
brevia-
;ails of

Dt'JK

Expc
Fa
D.I
Pa
Pa
sto

Ships
Ol
Ai

Esl
arr

Wolf

Joi

(; O N T E N r 8.

CHAPTER I.

Depiirturc from England

page

CHAPTER H.

Expedition to examine Hurd's Channel — Anchor within it —
Farther examination — Gore Bay discovered — Red snow —
Dangers of Hurd's Channel— Enter a large inlet — Captain
Parry's absence in boats — He meets with natives — Captain
Parry's second absence and return — Approach of winter — Ships
stopped by young ice — Cut into and take winter quarters 5G

CHAPTER HI.

Ships take their winter quarters — Theatricals — The school —
Observatory built — Foxes — Shortest day — Christmas — The
Aurora — New year — Arctic fox — Wine frozen — Arrival of the
Eskiniaux, and a pack of wolves — Snow houses — Interior
arrangement — Tattooing — Honesty of the natives — Frost bites

Luxuries — Manner of sewing — Boldness of the wolves —

Music — Arnalooa 87

CHAPTER IV.

Wolf caught — The snufF-box— Seals caught — Voracious feeding
— The marines — Okotook and Iligliak — An eclipse — Ayookitt
—Walrus killed— The 13th, wolf killed— Charts obtained—
Journey across the island — A dance — Kettle and the spirit —
Beef stolen 137

\ll

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

Natives clianjTo tlicir stations — Gluttony — DoPcrtod lints — Tlic
first tliaw — Arrival of birds — Land expedition — Snow blindness
— Snow storm — Return to the ships — Deatli of a seuniaii —
Deer are seen — Singular phenomenon — Canal completed — The
gardens — yXppearancc of the island — Death of two seamen —
Ice breaks up, and we leave the island . . page 1 "H

CHAPTER VI.

Leave Winter Island — Dangerous navigation — The coast — Bar-
row River — Walrus Idilod — New natives — Land at Igloolik —
Tents — Inli;il)it;iiits — Bad weather — Hospitality of natives —
State of the ice — l>one huts — Salmon procured — Land journey
with Toolemak — Sledges — Fires — A ball — The koonik — Re-
turn on board . 214

CHAPTER VH.

Enter strait of Fury a:id Hecla — Land journeys— State of the
season — Rears killed — Liddun Island — Andierst Island — Ex-
amine state of the ice — A cave — Extraordinary currents — Seek
winter quarters — Igloolik — Ice huts — An anchor lost — Ships
frozen in ........ 2G2

CHAPTER VIH.

Annatko — A man beats his wives — Geographical intelligence —
Strangers arrive — White wolf — Sun leaves us for forty-two
days — Toolemak's hut — Christmas-day — Distresses of the
natives — Effect of the climate . ■ . 286

CHAPTER IX.

Persons of Eskimaux — Their dress and ornaments — Occupalums
of the women — Canoes — Sledges— Weapons — Hunting on the
ice — Dogs — Land animals — Wolf-traps — Fishing — Geogra -
phical knowledge— General tlisposition — Marriages — Estima

CONTENTS.

Xlll

nits— Tlic

I'bliiulnoss

scMinaii —

L»tc(l — The

seamen —

page 1 7i^

last — Bar-
lijloolik —
natives —
1(1 journey
Dnik — Re-
211

ate (»f the
land — Ex-
nts — Seek
)St — Ships
. 2G2

lligenco —

forty-two

5 of the

286

tion of women— Treatment of ehihlrcn — Conduet to the aged,
tn the sick, ;md the dea«l — Superstitions . page 30f)

CHAPTER X.

New Year's-day — Anecdotes (»f bears — The sun returns — Drift
^vood — A sick woman and chihl — They die — Visit to the grave
— Man eaten by dogs — Kaglia — Her deatli— A theft — Visit
distant huts — Specimens of eating — Scurvy — Death of IMr.
Khler — Arrangements for Fury to remain another year — Too-
lemak drunk — Aj)pcarancc of vegetation — Strangers arrive —
V anity of a woman — Togorlat's <leath — Toolemak takes lea\c

37r)

CHAPTER XI.

Journey in searcli of a western sea, and return — Arrival of
strangers — Fish procured — A river discovered — Mice — Mr.
Ho{)pner's two excursions — Walrus sinks a boat — The ice
breaks uj) — Reason? for the ships returning home — The ships
make an offing 41G

CHAPTER XH.

Rxpedition returning — A landmark erected — Account of Igloolik
— Drift (»f the ship — Danger of the ships while driving — Lyon
inlet — Death of Mr. George Fife — His case — The ships drive
out of Lyon lalet — ()j>en water yoeii, and an ollinjf made —
Passage down Hudson's Strait and across the i\tluntic — Arrival
asid hospitable receptioti at Lerwick . . . 444

cciipations
ng on the
— Geogra-
— Estima

DIllECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.

Man and Woman of tlie Savage Islands -
Oomiak, or Woman's Boat
Snow Village - - - - - .

Dancing Party - - - _

Eskimaux Men of Igloolik - - . .
Eskimaux Women of Igloolik - . .

The last Appearance of the Sun, as Frontispiece

To face Page

- 17

- 41

- Ill
■ 170

- 311
• 315

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entered th(

PRIVATE JOURNAL.

CHAPTER I.

DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND.

At daylight of the 8th of May, 1821, his Ma-
jesty's ships Fury and Hecla, accompanied by the
Nautilus transport, carrying stores, weighed, and
stood out from the Little Nore.

On the l6th, having made Kinnaird's Light, near
Peterhead, we sent the pilots on shore, and by them
were enabled to send letters to our friends.

Making the Orkneys on the 18th, it was Captain
Parry's intention to take the ships through the
Pentland Firth, and we procured pilots for that
purpose from some fishing-boats, which were catching
cod in great plenty for the London market, to which
they are forwarded by a company established for that
trade at the Orkneys. We had scarcely, however,
entered the Firth, when the wind came so fresh from

-1

9 rASSAClK ACIIOSS TlIK ATI.ANTIC.

the northward as to oblij;c iis to !)ear up for Wide-
wall IJay, in the island of South Ronaldsha. This
place, althouj^li small and shallow, afforded good
shelter for our little scpiadron. We remained four
days, and, during that period, received the most
hospitable treatment from the lairds of the country.
The island appeared to me even more unprepossessing
than I had expected, owing, pcrliaps, to having left
England at so fine a season ; at all events, it was cal-
culated to prepare me for the barren scenes we were
so soon to visit.

On the 22d, we made another fruitless attempt
to pass through the firth, but the rapid tide and
strong west wind were too much for us, and wc ran
into Long Hope, in the island of Walls.

A heavy gale from N.N.P]. confined us for tln*ee
days; and on the 30th of May, we left Long Hope,
passed amongst the islands near Strom ness, and
made an offing. Until the Gth, we had an un-
interrupted fair wind, when it fell calm.

On the evening of the 7th we again recovered
our favouring breeze, and as we approached nearer
to Cape Farewell, saw abundance of the Cape hens,
which, unlike most other sea-birds, appeared to live
more on the water than on the wing, seldom rising
unless disturbed. In changing their place they have
a most graceful manner of propelling themselves for-
ward ; for, as they generally settle with expanded
wings, so by the slightest exertion can they again
shoot forward and settle, and this elegant skimming

I'AssACii: vt'iioss riiK ait.vn'tu'.

motion is often ropoated from wave to wave, until
they remove from the objcet of ahirm.

We were now nearly al»rea.st of Cape Farewell (the
southern extreine of (rreenland), and Hattered our-
selves we should pas^s it without a ^ale, although the
Greenland pilots said it vvas imposslide. As they
predicted, so it happened j the evening sky assumed
a wild, and to me, unusual appearance, and a heavy
gale set in from the southward, blowing with great
fury until afternoon of the l'2th, when a gentle
and favourable breeze sprung up. Two swans Hew
past us to the westward, and of course were looked
upon as indications of our approach to the land.

On the evening of the 14th we saw our first ice-
berg ; and all those to v horn such objects were new,
afforded much amusement to the old hands, by their
anxiety to see it. I was amongst the number,
and gladly made a sketch of it, considering it would
always be interesting to look back to my first intro-
duction to these wondrous floating masses. It was
not a large berg, and near it were several flocks of
rotzes (alca alle) which did not appear alarmed by
the ships sailing amongst them.

In the forenoon of the l6th an ice-berg was seen
a-head. To one who, like myself, was a stranger to these
climes, I need scarcely apologize for mentioning the
novel beauty of the evening of this day. At a quarter
past ten the sun set : the sky over-head was of the
purest azure, here and there sprinkled with light sil-
very clouds of the most fantastic forms. At about

B 2

PASSAGE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC.

mid-heaven, in the western sky, a range of purple
clouds, edged with vivid gold, fonned a delightful
contrast with the softened crimson of the setting sun.
In opposition to this glowing scene, the eastern hea-
vens were filled with heavy clouds of a brilliant
whiteness, and cold appearance, backed by a clear
blue sky. The calm sea exhibited, in a softened de-
gree, the beauties above it, and its surface was occa-
sionally ruffled by the rapid motions of large shoals
of porpoises, attended by multitudes of birds. The
ships lay motionless together, and their bells alone
broke the universal stillness. This delightful even-
ing far excelled, in my opinion, any Italian sun -set ;
but the presence of two large ice-bergs reminded us
but too well that we were in a far different climate.

On the 17th a heavy gale came on from the south-
ward ; during which a sea stove and carried away one
of our quarter boats. With but little abatement in
the wind we came amongst a quantity of loose ice on
the morning of the 18th, and at 9 a.m. in lat. 60°.
53 N. long. 61°. 39 W., we made the pack, or main
body of ice, having many large bergs in and near it.
As the transport was liable to injury from the ice
during this fresh weather, we stood off from it again*

The pack edge was in a straight line, and pre-
sented the appearance of a low rugged wall. The
morning was gloomy, and the wind which set on to
the ice kept it in continual motion : snow fell occa-
sionally, and a slight coating of ice formed on the
"ggij^g* Over the pack I observed, for the first time,

the
thoi
witl
dive
rolli
occa
thei]
lasti]
my s
with
take
and j
the t
Oi
pack
I whicl
I tilus.
f tered
^ tions
ships,
^ ice, a
% before
I a clea
I conni
^ or dar
; enable
f called
both !
braces
foot.

PASSAGE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC.

' purple
•lightful
ing sun.
em hea-
brilliant
a clear
ened de-
vas occa-
ve shoals
is. The
jlls alone
ful even-
sun-set *,
ninded us
climate.
;he south-
away one
tement in
ose ice on
lat. 60°.
or main
d near it.
n the ice
n it again*
and pre-
all. The
set on to
fell occa-
jd on the
first time,

the luminous appearance called the blink, which, al-
though very white, was not of course to be compared
with the body by which it was caused. Flocks of
divers and gulls swam with unconcern amongst the
rolling masses by which they were surrounded, and
occasionally rising to avoid a coming wave, resumed
their search for food. As first impressions are always
lasting and forcible, I may be forgiven for mentioning
my sensations on this day, which I can compare only
with those I experienced on riding from Tripoli to
take a view of the desert, amongst whose barren
and inhospitable sands I was then about to undertake
the tedious journey, which ended so unhappily.

On the weather moderating, we stood along the
pack edge to look out for some convenient place in
which to put the ships while we unloaded the Nau-
tilus. As we now considered ourselves to have en-
tered on the scene of action, many requisite prepara-
tions were made for our new service. In all whaling
ships, and such as are obliged to run much amongst
ice, a large and broad plank is ji ected across the ship,
before the mizen-mast, at such a height as to afford
a clear view over the bows ; in order that whoever is
conning, the ship may have timely notice of any heavy
or dangerous pieces of ice lying in her way, and be
enabled to steer her clear of them. This walk is
called a spike plank, and was on this day got up in
both ships. We also rove light tacks, sheets, and
braces, and bent a smaller foresail with a boom at the
foot, as being more easily worked than the other.

"**^

PASSAGE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC.

In the afternoon we were surrounded by a very
dense fog, which froze as it fell, and quite encrusted
the rigging ; it soon cleared away, and we saw a
strange sail to the S.E. In the evening we observed
the appearance of distant land, which we supposed
was a part of Resolution Island, then 64 miles
W.S.W. ofus.

During the first watch a large fragment was ob-
served to fall from a berg near us, and to throw up
the water to a great height, sending forth, at the
same time, a noise like the report of a great gun.

On the evening of the 20th we made fast to a berg
at some distance from the pack, in order to clear the
transport. Occasional gales, the necessity of making
an offing, and many other of the attendant difficul-
ties usually experienced amongst ice, prevented our
entirely clearing the Nautilus until the 30th of June.

On this day Mr. Scrymgeour, of the Nautilus, dined
with us, and received more messages and commissions
to our friends at home than he could possibly re-
collect. Our letters were all written in readiness,
and a fair wind, which soon sprung up, hastened his
departure.

At one o'clock on the morning of the 1st July
I took Mr. Scrymgeour on board his ship, . and re-
turning on board, turned the hands up to give him
three hearty and very sincere cheers as he disappeared
in the fog. I do not recollect that any of our faces
appeared very lively during the remainder of this
day. In the evening, having found a lead (or lane of

■4.

ENTERING HUDSON'S STRAIT.

a very
trusted
saw a
3served
ipposed
i miles

was ob-
row up
at the
;un.

) a berg
[ear the
making
difficul-
ted our
f June.
, dined
missions
bly re-
idiness,
ned his

St July
uid re-
ive him
)peared
jr faces
of this
lane of

water), we made some progress : a large whale came near
us. Early on the morning of the 2d, we ran through
some heavy ice, and made fast to a small berg, where
we were soon beset. At noon, on the clearing up of
a fog, which had for some time surrounded us, we
discovered land about 10 miles from S. S. W. to
W. N. W., which we immediately knew to be the
Black Bluff, on Resolution Island : making sail, we
were soon introduced to the company of some un-
usually large ice-bergs. The altitude of one was 258
feet above the surface of the sea: its total height there-
fore (allowing one-seventh only to be visible) must
liave been about 1 806 feet*! We had scarcely passed
this floating mountain, when the eddy tide drifted us
with great rapidity amongst a large cluster of eleven
bergs of a great size, and having a beautiful diversity
of forms. The largest of these was 210 feet above
the water.

The floe ice was running wildly at the rate of at least
three miles an hour, sweeping us past the bergs, against
any one of which we might have received incalculable
injury. We therefore attempted to make fast to one,
in order to ride out the tide (for all were aground),
but our endeavours were unavailing ; and the Fury
had much difficulty in sending a boat for some men
who were on a small berg making holes for her ice

* This, however, is supposing the base under water not to
spread beyond the mass above water.

ENTERING HUDSON'S STRAIT.

anchors. We were no sooner swept past the cluster
than we were instantly, and not very quietly, beset.
In the evening the master and myself counted 54
bergs from the mast-head. We were now in the
entrance of Hudson's Strait.

During the 3d we made some progress amongst
very heavy floes ; when, on the tide turning in the
evening, the loose ice flew together with such ra-
pidity and noise, that we had barely time to secure
the ships in a natural dock, before the two streams met ;
and even then we received some very heavy shocks.

During the first watch, we watered the ship from
the pools on the floe to which we were fast, and this
being the first time of doing so, afforded great amuse-
ment to the novices, who even when it was their watch
below, preferred pelting each other with snow-balls
to going to bed. During the night the ships, al-
though still beset, parted to a great distance from
each other, evidently under the influence of some
extraordinary eddy. On the 5th the weather cleared,
and the ice slackened a little. Button's Islands were
seen in the distance, and we made some westing ; but
on the tide turning in the evening, were again swept
back.

At 2 A. M. on the 6th the inshore tide took the
ship and swept us fast towards the rocks, past which
the ice was driving at full five miles an hour. On
nearing the shore, a low rugged point was observed,
on which the ice was grating with extreme violence.

and
tially I
again I
two c\
off'frc
have

PASSAGE UP HUDSON'S STRAIT.

■^
&.

the
^hich

On
[rved,
lence,

',1

and we fully expected to be carried upon it. Providen-
tially the same eddy which had caused our troubles
again relieved us by taking a sudden turn, at about
two cables' length from the danger, and carrying us
off from it. Had we touched on a sunken rock we must
have upset, as the whole body of ice would have gone
over us.

To give some idea of the pressure we at this time
experienced, I may mention, that five hawsers (of five
and six inches) were repeatedly carried away ; and at
length our best bower anchor was wrenched from the
bows, and broke off at the head of the shank with as
much ease as if, instead of weighing twenty-one cwt.,
it had been of crockery ware. The crown fell on the
ice, from whence we launched it as soon as possible
into the sea, lest, as it was painted with the ship's iiame,
it should, on being driven to sea, give rise to some
unpleasant conjectures. Our troubles, even now,
were not at an end, for we soon perceived a large
berg, which had once before threatened us, coming
to the ship very rapidly, while any attempt to avoid it
would have been of no avail. When at about half a
mile distant a large fragment was detached, and fell
with a loud and, at that time, no very agreeable noise.
By 4 A. M. it had passed close astern of us. Its
height, we supposed, was about 150 feet. In the
course of the forenoon the ice carried us gradually
off the shore, and further from it than the Fury, who
was now as far west of us as she had been east on the
preceding morning.

PASSAGE UP HUDSON'S STRAIT.

}■ .

On the forenoon of the 8th we were carried to the
same point as on the Gth, and had, if possible, a nar-
rower escape. A large floe, to which we were fast,
had acquired a rotary motion, and by this means
the ship and it were exposed by turns to the danger.
Mr. Fife came down from the crow's nest, and very
quietly told me we should be on shore immediately,
as he saw the rocks close to us. Our former favour-
ing current, however, again swept us out of danger. In
the afternoon we joined the Fuiy, and, making fast to
the same floe, were both close beset for seven days.
During this long period we saw two ships under
Resolution Island on the 13th, also beset, and on the
14th, a third joined them.

In the forenoon of the 15th we made a little pro-
gress, but were again beset, and made fast to a small
berg, under the lee of which was a small space of
open water, as is generally the case with these bodies;
for in consequence of their great draught, the floes
and comparatively light ice soon drive past them, so
that a ship is sometimes left in clear water whilst
hanging on to one. This was a remark of Captain
Parry's in his last voyage, and we had in the present
frequently seen the same effects from large floes.
Dining the first watch a heavy body of ice came np
against the wind, and bore us with great force against
the berg : our bowsprit first took it, but we received
no further injury than the loss of the dolphin striker
and a few small ropes. We then got cl^ar, and a
very dull rainy night followed.

I monyu
I was on]

ii'i

PASSAGE UP HUDSON'S STRAIT.

id to the
le, a nar-
fere fast,
is means
I danger,
and very
ediately,
ir favour-
nger. In
Iff fast to
/en days.
ps under
id on the

ittle pro-

a small

space of

e bodies ;

the floes

them, so

sr whilst

Captain

3 present

ge floes.

came up

3 against

received

n striker

r, and a

On the evening of the l6th we contrived to join
the strange ships, and made fast to a floe near them ;
they proved to be the Prince of Wales and Eddystone
(the Hudson*s Bay traders), with the Lord Welling-
ton, which had about 160 natives of Holland on
board, who were going to settle at Lord Selkirk's
colony on the Red River. While nearing these
vessels we observed the settlers waltzing on deck for
above two hours ; the men in old fashioned grey
jackets, and the women wearing long-eared mob caps,
like those used by the Swiss peasants.

As we were surrounded by ice, and the thermo-
meter was at the freezing point, it may be supposed
that this ball al vero fresco afforded us much amuse-
ment. We learned from the Hudson's Bay ships
that they had left England twenty days later than
ourselves. As for the Lord Wellington, she had been
nineteen days hampered amongst the ice before she
joined the others ; and as this navigation was new to
her captain and crew, they almost despaired of ever
getting to their journey's end, so varied and constant
had been their impediments. The Dutchmen had,
however, behaved very philosophically during this
period, and seemed determined on being merry,
in spite of the weather. Several marriages had taken
place, (the surgeon, who was accompanying them to
their colony, acting as parson,) and many more were in
agitation; each happy couple always deferring the cere-
mony until aflne day allowed of an evening's ball, which
was only terminated by a fresh breeze or a fall of snow.

.1 \

PASSAGE UP HUDSON S STRAIT.

Experience having shown us how impossible it was
to calculate on remaining in company all night, we sent
our letters on board in the evening, and our precau-
tion was most fortunate, as by daylight on the 17th,
we were swept to above two miles from the ships, and
totally beset. A small seal (phoca hispida) was shot
by the Fury, and a whale was heard blowing close to
us, although we did not see it. For several days
during our detention in the entrance of Hudson's
strait, I had amused myself in searching amongst the
holes of water which occurred between the floes, for
different species of moluscse, which the seamen call
" whales* food ;" and on this day in particular, was
fortunate in finding several beautiful varieties, of
which I made drawings, while they continued alive.
Among this number v^ere the elegant clio borealis,
various heroes, medusae, argonautae, and crustacae of
the shrimp kind. It may not here be irrelevant to
mention a certain curious slimy matter which floats
in streams of many fathoms in length along the sur-
face, resembling dirty soap suds in colour, but being
of a more oily consistency. Crantz mentions the
same appearance in Greenland, and supposes it to be
the spawn of muscles. Several northern voyagers
also notice this substance, but each one assigns a dif-
ferent nature to it. It is greedily devoured by the
mallemucks.

We made but little progress for four days, and on
the 21st found ourselves abreast of the Lower Savage
Islands. I have avoided as much as possible entering

mto
which

St my o\
' dull

westmg
Intl
and we
made f
bear ly
were in
very cl(
them.

I great d
face

strengt
springs
very fal
lashed i

A BEAR KILLED.

ible it was
it, we sent
ir precau-
the 17th,
ships, and
) was shot
g close to
^eral days
Hudson's
longst the
; floes, for
amen call
cular, was
rieties, of
ued alive.
borealis,
ustacae of
slevant to
lich floats
5 the sur-
)ut being
ions the
s it to be
voyagers
gns a dif-
ed by the

s, and on

er Savage

entering

into technical subjects in this my private journal;
which, as it is only intended for the inspection of
my own family, I am aware that they will find quite
dull enough without the assistance of the daily oc-
currences of the ship. It will, however, give some
idea of the difficulties we had experienced, when I
observe that we were 19 days in passing Resolution
Island, a distance of about 60 miles ; and that even
the small progress we made was by the assistance of
the tides. Baffin, Hudson, Fox, and others, agree
in saying, that out of three tides they generally
made one to the westward. Thus proving that
the floods are more powerful, and of longer dura-
tion, than the ebbs. This must have been our case
also, as even when many days fast to a floe, and
close beset, we have found ourselves making a little
westing.

In the evening the ice opened more than was usual,
and we had a good run until near midnight, when we
made fast. During the evening we saw a very large
bear lying on a piece of ice, a-head of us. Two boats
were instantlysent in chase of him, and had approached
very close before he moved, when, appearing to scent
them, he quietly took to the water. It was with
great difficulty he was killed, and he boldly turned
to face his pursuers as long as he had sufficient
strength, for he swam rapidly, and could make long
springs in the water. As these animals, although
very fat and bulky, sink the instant they die, he was
lashed to a boat, and brought alongside. On hoist-

A BEAU Kir<LED.

ing him in we were astonished to find that his weight
exceeded lOOOlbs !

His dimensions were as follows :

LENGTH.

Feet. Inches.

Snout to the insertion of the tail 8 7i

The head only

From the eye to the ear .

Nose to the centre of the eye

The ear alone

The tail from root to tip .

Fore claws

Hinder claws

Tusks ....

GIRTH.

Round the body
Neck
Fore leg
Hind leg
Round the snout
Round the forehead

HEIGHT.

Shoulder
Rump

BREADTH.

The paws
Between the ears
Between the tusks .

4-1-

VISIT FROM THE ESKIMAUX.

The animal may be considered as an unusuisHy
large one, and the weight enormous. I have met
with but two instances of larger bears having been
killed, and they were by Barentz's crew at Cherrie
Island.

Our prize was very fat, his colour a yellowish white,
and the hair covered with a kind of sticky oil, which
gave it a shining appearance, and made the hands
feel very clammy after touching it. On opening the
body a most noisome effluvia filled the whole ship.
The smell was very pungent, and quite different from
any other I had ever experienced. The heart con-
tinued to beat on being taken out, although the
animal had been three hours dead. Our seamen ate
it without experiencing any of those bad effects which
old northern navigators attribute to bear's flesh, which
made three of Barentz' people ** so sick that we ex-
pected they would have died, and their skins peeled
off from head to foot." Having procured a large tub
of blubber from the bear, the carcass was thrown
overboard, and the two first walruses we had seen,
soon after made their appearance near us, probably
attracted by the smell.

We continued beset all this day and night at about
six miles from the Savage Islands. In the afternoon
a loud shouting was heard, and we knew that the
Eskimaux were coming off to us, although we could
not see them amongst the loose ice near the shore.
A number of people were at length observed paddling
along a lane of water which led to the Fury, and

" ■ I

VISIT FROM TIIK K8K1MAIIX.

Others were seen carrying their canoes over pieces of
ice, and then launching them again. The nearer
our visitors approached, the more vehement were
their cries of joy and salutation. The loud " Hu,
haa," resounded from all quarters ; for our people
again repeated it, to encourage the natives.

We soon had a large assemblage of canoes along-
side our floe, and a most noisy but merry barter in-
stantly took place : all of us being as anxious to pur-
chase Eskimaux curiosities, as they were to procure
iron and European toys. In less than an hour we
had thirty canoes round us, and five of the women's
large boats, or " Oomiaks :" all exactly agreeing with
the description which Crantz gives of the boats of
the Greenlanders. As we are now entering on the
natural territories of these people, I need not give
a full description of their vessels until a farther ex-
perience enables me to do so with confidence. An
old man steered each woman's boat by an oar, and
appeared to have a kind of authority over the ladies.
Some boys were also in the boats ; but no men, ex-
cept the steersman. In the largest of the Oomiaks
I counted twenty-one persons. It is quite out of my
power to describe the shouts, yells, and laughter of
the savages, or the general confusion which existed
for two or three hours. The females were at first very
shy, and unwilling to come on the ice, but bartered
every thing from their boats. This timidity, how-
ever, soon wore off, and they, in the end, became as
noisy and boisterous as the men.

I«

eces of
nearer
t were
"Hii,
people

along-
rter in-
to pur-
)rocure
[)ur we
omen's
ig with
oats of
on the
t give
er ex-
An
r, and
adies.
n, ex-
omiaks
of my
iter of
xisted
jt very
rtered
how-
,me as

DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES.

^^.

» ■:3^_

The cast of countenance of these Eskhnaux per-
fectly resembles that of the Greenlanders, as far as I
could judge from Crantz. A first interview does not
authorize my attempting to describe their features ;
but I may safely say, that I could not, even in a dozen
visits, have discovered the regular colour of their skin ;
from its being so covered with blood, grease, and
dirt, as to baffle all attempts to trace its natural hue.
Its artificial dye was of a dull copper or brown colour.
Amongst some of the young girls we occasionally
could discover a deep purple tinge of health on the
cheeks; and the skins of both sexes were very soft
and greasy to the touch. The hair of the women
was confined in a knot on the top of the head, or
on the forehead in some ; but others, like men,
wore it in glorious confusion all over their necks and
faces. Whichever way it was arranged not a curl
was to be seen, and the jetty black of these locks
gave an air of inexpressible wildness to each counte-
nance. The men had very scanty or no beards, and,
as far as we could learn, the bodies of both sexes were
destitute of hair. A species of ophthalmia appeared
very generally to exist ; many persons had lost their
'ye-lashes, and some were nearly blind. A very
curious kind of wooden eye-shade was in general
use, and was so contrived as to admit but little of the
dazzling glare of the ice. -

On the knuckles of some of the men I observed
white leprous blotches, of the same dead-looking
colour, when contrasted with their dark skin, as I

f .

DESCllIl'TION OF THE NATIVES

»•■■

have discovered in similar cases amongst the Arahs.
One maimed person only was seen, and this was a boy
about eight years of age, who had lost an arm below
the elbow, and his lip appeared also to have been
injured. The poor little fellow seemed pale and me-
lancholy, showing no wish to mingle in the sports of
his c6untrymen j on which account I gave him a fine
brass button to put him in spirits.

It is scarcely possible to conceive any thing more
ugly or disgusting than the countenances of the old
women ; who had inflamed eyes, wrinkled skin, black
teeth, and, in fact, such a forbidding set of features
as scarcely could be called human : to which might
be added their dress, which was such as gave them
the appearance of aged Ourang Outangs. Frobisher's
crew may be pardoned for having, in such super-
stitious times as A.D. 1576, taken one of these ladies
for a witch ; of whom it is said, " The old wretch
whom our sailors supposed to be a witch, had her
buskins pulled off, to see if she was cloven-footed ;
and being very ugly and deformed, we let her go."
The young children were pretty, lively, and well-
behaved.

The dresses of the Eskimaux were chiefly com-
posed of seals' skins, but many articles of clothing
consisted of those of bears, deer, wolves, foxes, hares,
and birds, all sewed in a neat and even elegant man-
ner, with the sinews of animals. The habits of the
men differing in some degree from those of the
women, I shall describe each separately.

OF THE SAVAGE ISLANDS.

One or two jackets of seals' skin, having no opening
the front, reach as low down as the upper part of
the thigh. The outer one has a hood for covering
the head, but at this season of the year it was suffered
to hang between the shoulders. The trowsers have
no waistbands, but are drawn by strings tight round
the body. They descend to below the knee, whence
the boots complete the clothing of the legs. They
are of seals' hide ; and half-boots of variegated skins
are sometimes worn over all. The soles of these are
composed of strong skin deprived of hair, and per-
fectly impervious to water. Mittens of deer or seals*
skin, warmly lined, and fitting close to the hand,
were generally worn. Of all the articles of male
attire there are other complete sets which resemble
them in form, but are made of the intestines of seals,
or the skins of animals deprived of hair, and which,
by being water-proof, protect the fur clothing from
the rain, or spray of the sea. A few of these dresses,
which we purchased, were transparent, resembling
broad ribands of white oil-skin: and formed of the
seals* entrails. Some gloves resembling strong parch-
ment proved a great comfort to our leadsmen while
sounding in frosty weather.

The jackets of the women, although of the same
materials as those of the men, differ from them very
essentially in form. I however do not think the
ladies have been judicious in the fashion of their
clothes, which give them a most monkey-like ap-
pearance.

c 2

.. H

DKSCllIPTION OF THE NATIVES

A small peak or flap hangs down in front to the
depth of about six inches, but its extreme narrowness
renders it a very useless appendage ; while behind
there is another flap or tail, which reaches nearly to
the ground, is about six or eight inches broad, and
rounded at the lower extremity. Much attention is
paid to ornamenting these flaps, by sewing very neat
borders of different coloured skins round their edges.
The hoods of the women's coats are also much larger
than those of the men, being for the purpose of
carrying their young children stark naked against
the back.

The arrangement of the colours of skins, and
the formation of their clothing, are very strictly at-
tended to. Thus the dark and mottled part of the
seal is placed in the centre of the back or breast, while
the lighter shades are on the sides. In the sleeves,
the fore and back piece are often of two colours, and
the cuffs also of a different hue. As each of the
numerous varieties of seal affords a peculiar skin, it
may be imagined that these people avail themselves
of this in order to arrange the most opposite and
glossy colours in the same habit. The women wear
no trowsers, or, at all events, very few do so. They
have, however, rather a complicated substitute for
these indispensables ; for round the loins a tight
leather girth or girdle is laced, one part of it passing
between the thighs. Long stockings, or, more pro-
perly speaking, legs of trowsers, are then drawn on,
and attached to the hind part of the girdle. Yet,

OF THE SAVAGE ISLANDS.

with these contrivances, a portion of the stomach and
upper leg is shown naked. The boots were the same
as those worn by the men.

It was impossible to distinguish sexes by the dresses
of the children ; some of their jackets having one
tail, others two, and many none at all.

In this short account of the clothing of our visitors,
it must be remembered that it is the summer dress I
describe : what their winter costume may be is merely
conjectural.

A very singular custom prevailed amongst them
in concluding the most trifling bargain ; for no
sooner had they received an article in exchange
for their goods, than it was instantly applied to the
tongue, and licked several times previous to being
put away in security *. Whatever might be the
article given, even if a sharp razor, the bargain was
not concluded until it had gone through the above
ceremony ; and I frequently shuddered at seeing the
children draw a razor over their tongue as uncon-
cernedly as if it had been an ivory paper-knife.
We had a convincing proof of the importance at-
tached to the above custom, in one poor woman whom

• Captain Cook mentions a curious custom at the Isle of
Amsterdam which much resembles this.

" All articles given in exchange were lifted to the head. Some-
times they would look at our goods, and if not approved return
them back J but whenever they applied them to the head the
bargain was infallibly struck." — Second Voyage.

DEFCIUPTION OF THE NATIVES

I detected going over the side with an ice-axe upon
her shoulder, which, fancying she had stolen it, I
ordered to be taken from her. This she loudly and
firmly resisted, crying bitterly, and looking anxiously
round for the person from whom she had received
it, making signs that it had been given in exchange
for a very handsome seal-skin jacket which she had
been observed to wear, and at the same time licking
every part of the axe, to show it had been a bargain.
By this we were convinced that some one had been
despicable enough to give this poor creature an
article which he knew would be taken from her
again. When a button or other trifle was given as
a present, without demanding an exchange, it did
not receive the customary licking. Nothing can
equal the eagerness for barter evinced by these sa-
vages, or the frenzy they exhibited to possess a nail
or any other trifle. To describe the various modu-
lations of their screams of joy or anxiety would be
absolutely impossible. We, however, in the general
confusion, were of opinion that the word used for
barter was " ChT bo ;" for it was repeated in every
key to which the human voice can be raised. " Pille
tay" was also clamorously and frequently repeated ;
and we had no doubt that it implied " Give me,"
all ages and sexes being most indefatigable beggars.
They were, however, traders as long as they had any
stock. From the men we purchased oil, weapons, and
ivory j the women supplied us with skins, ornaments,

OF THE SAVACIE ISLANDS.

>•

little pouches, &c. ; and from the children were pro-
cured sniciU toys and models, their parents directing
them in their bargains and beggings also. There
was one little child, who, having no merchandize to
dispose of, ran about holding up the red legs of a
dovekie, in hopes that their colour might attract a
customer; but meeting with no success, the poor
little trader was returning disconsolate to his mother,
when a button which I gave him put the poor child
quite into raptures, and underwent more kissing than
button ever received before.

Both sexes eagerly sold their clothes, and some
went away nearly naked, notwithstanding the severity
of the weather. I must however say, in justice to
the softer sex, that they were more correct in the
choice of what parts of their clothing they would
dispose of, than the men ; for I do not remember to
have seen a single lady part with her breeches, while
the gentlemen were by no means so scrupulous, and
evinced no shame at appearing nearly naked.

A nail was considered a fair equivalent for a spear
with ivory head, and with line and bladder attached to
it. Small pieces of iron hoop were equally valuable ;
and a knife might purchase any article. Saws, how-
ever, were the most eagerly inquired for; and, had
any been produced at first, nothing else would have
been taken. In all exchanges the natives showed as
much joy as if they had acquired the greatest riches,
although in many instances they were losers by the
bargain.

V (

DKSi'UllTION OF Till-: NATIVKS

I had every reafson to suppose tliat a womaTi would
uctually luive sold her child to u marine who was
ottering a knife for it ; and, on mentioning the cir-
cumstance on hoard, IVIr. Sherer assured me that a
man and woman had heen very pressing for him to
huy a hahy also. Our ignorance, at the time, of the
language and customs of these people, might have led
us into error in this respect, although appearances
were as 1 have stated.

The strangers were so well pleased in our society,
that they showed no wish to leave us, and, when the
nuuket had quite ceased, they hegan dancing and
playing with our people on the ice alongside : this
exercise again set many of their noses hleeding (which
at their first arrival we had ohserved to be the case),
and discovered to us a most nasty custom, which ac-
counted for their gory faces ; jind which was, that as
fast as the blood lan down, they scraped it with the
fingers into their mouths, appearing to consider it as
a refreshment or dainty, if we might judge by the
zest with which they smacked their lips at each sup-
ply. Some of the most quiet came on board the ship,
and behaved very well ; while others walked quietly
alongside, gazing occasionally at the men, but more
frequently at some quarters of Old English beef,
which were hanging over the stern, and had a most
attractive appearance. Some slices were cut off* and
thrown down to them, and these they instantly devoured
with great satisfaction ; but they refused to eat the
biscuit which was offered at the same time. One

OF TIIK SAVAdK ISLANDS.

Of:

woman in particuljir attnictcd f^eneral notice by her
unwearied application for presents, and by feifpniiif^ to
be hurt, and cryinj^ to excite compassion ; in which
she no sooner succeeded, than a loud and triumphant
laujrh proclaimed the cheat. Of all horrible yells,
this laugh was tlie most fiend-like 1 ever heard ;
and her countenance corres])onde(l with her voice.
She had lost all her front teeth, with the exception of
the eye-teeth ; her mouth was plentifully ornamented
by blue tattoo-lines ; and a vast profusion of black,
straij^ht, and matted hair, hung all round her head
and face. At her back was an imp not more pre-
possessing in features than herself, and screaming
itself black in the face. Although the countenances
of the other young children were generally rather
pretty than otherwise, yet, from their dress and man-
ner of walking, they might, without any great stretch
of the iuuigination, have been taken for the cubs of
wild animals ; particularly some who were laid for
safety in the bottom of the women's boats, amongst
blubber, the entrails of seals, &c. of which they were
continually sucking whatever was nearest to them.

In order to amuse our new acquaintances as much
as possible the fiddler was sent on the ice, where he
instantly found a most delighted set of dancers, of
whom some of the women kept pretty good time.
Their only figure consisted in stamping and jumping
with all their might. Our musician, who was a
lively fellow, soon caught the infection, and began

DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES

cuttlnjT capers also. In a short time every one on
the floe, officers, men, and savages, were dancing
together, and exhibited one of the most extra-
ordinary sights I ever witnessed. One of our sea-
men, of a fresh ruddy complexion, excited the ad-
miration of all the young females, who patted his
face and danced round him wherever he went. I
was half inclined to suppose they fancied him a
woman, although he was nearly six feet high, and
stout in proportion. I am sorry to give but a bad
account of the morals of our visitors, some of whom
were very importunate in offering their wives in ex-
change for a knife, and the women as anxiously
pressing the bargain.

The exertion of dancing so exhilarated the Eski-
maux, that they had the appearance of being
boisterously drunk, and played many extraordinary
pranks. Amongst others, it was a favourite joke to
run slily behind the seamen, and, shouting loudly in
one ear, to give them at the same time a very smart
slap on the other.

While looking on, I was sharply saluted in this
manner, and, of course, was quite startled, to the
great amusement of the by-standers : the joke consist-
ing in making the person struck look astonished,
which, as may be supposed, was always the result.

Our cook, who was a most active and unwearied
jumper, became so great a favourite, that every one
boxed his ears so soundly, as to oblige the poor man

Ol' THE SWAGE ISLANDS.

f>7

to retire from such boisterous marks of approbation.
Amongst other sports, some of tlic Esklmaux rather
rouglily, but with great good humoin-, challenged
our people to wrestle. One man, in particular, who
had thrown several of his countrymen, attacked an
officer of a very strong make, but the poor savage
was instantly thrown, and with no very easy fall ;
yet although every one was laughing at him, he
bore it with exemplary good humour. The same
officer afforded us much diversion, by teaching a
large party of women to bow, curtsy, shake hands,
turn their toes out, and perform sundry other polite
accomplishments ; the whole party, master and pupils,
preserving the strictest gravity.

As sailors seldom fail to select some whimsical
object on whom to pass their jokes, they soon found
one in the person of an ugly old man, possessing a
great stock of impudence, and a most comic coun-
tenance. He had sold all his clothes, with the ex-
ception of his breeches, and in this state they made
him parade the decks, honoured by the appellation of
king. Some rum was offered to this exalted per-
sonage, but he spat it out again with signs of great
disgust. In order to show him that it might be drank,
one of the seamen was told to finish the glass, but he
refused to touch it ** after such a brute." The boat-
swain, however, with much humour and a knowing
look, stepped forward, saying, " Here, hand me the
glass, I '11 drink with the gentleman," and nodding a

J28

nKSiUIi'llON ()!•' TIIK NATlVkS

health, which was veturncd by our kiii^, he drank off
the gro«T.

Sugar was offered to many of the grown people,
wlio disliked it very much, and, to our surprise, the
young children were e(|ually averse to it.

Towards midnight all our men, except tlie watch
on deck, turned in to their beds, and the fatigued and
hungry Ivskimaux returned to their boats to take their
supper, which consisted of lumi)s of raw ffesh and
Idubber of seals, birds, entrails, &c. ; licking their
fingers with great zest, and with knives or fingers
scraping the blood and grease which ran down their
chins into their mouths.

I walked quietly round to look at the different
groupes, and in one of the women's boats I observed
a young girl, whom we had generally allowed to be
tlie belle of the party, busily employed in tearing a
slice from the belly of a seal, and biting it inf o small
pieces for distribution to those around her. 1 also re-
marked that the two sexes took their meal apart, the
men on the ice, tlie women sitting in their boats.
At midnight they all left us, so exhausted by their
day's exertions, that they were quite unable either to
scream or laugh. The men paddled slowly away,
and the women rowed off with half their party asleep.
A few went only to a piece of floating ice astern, where
they lay down for the night, while the others made
their way to the shore, which was about eight miles
distant.

OF TITK SAVAr.K TSf.ANnS.

21)

Diiiiiif^ tlu' wliolc time tliosc people remained, they
appeared to plaee the most implieit eoiilidenee in the
lionesty of our men, and when the canoes were hauled
up on the ice they lel't them un])rotecte(l, and wan-
dered ahout, without any fear that the iron or other
articles which they contained shouhl he stok'n from
them. Some of our peoph* took the canoes and pad-
dled ahout, to the great annisement of their owners,
wlio feared no damage being done to them.

During the time our people lay off in the boats,
tliey afforded much diversion, by calling the New-
foundland dog to them, and making him fetch and
carry. This animal had at first caused some alarm
by running playfully after the children, and pulling
their tails, but the dread soon wore off. My black
cat was considered a far more formidable animal,
and I could persuade no one to touch it.

A few instiinces of dishonesty occurred where iron
lay neglected in view ; but it is scarcely to be
wondered that such a temptation should prove irre-
sistible : had small golden bars been thrown in the
streets of London, how would they have fared?

In drawing out this long account of one visit, my
prolixity maybe excused, when I state, that it is merely
intended to amuse my own fire-side circle ; yet, volu-
minous as it is, I have witheld any account of the
stature, and general appearance of the people ; or any
description of their boats and instruments, being cer-
tain of seeing more of them. In the mean time,
however, it may not be uninteresting to quote the

DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES.

brief but accurate description of them as given by
that able old navigator John Davies, in the year 1586.

" The people are of good stature, well pro-
portioned, with small slender hands and feet, broad
visages, small eyes, wide mouths, the most part un-
bearded, great lips and close teethed ; they are much
given to bleed, and therefore stop their noses with
deer's hair, or that of an elan. They are very
simple in their conversation, but marvellously given
to thieving, especially of iron ; they did eat all their
meat raw."

On the morning of the 23d we remained nearly
beset; yet although there was scarcely an opening
amongst the ice, the indefatigable Eskimaux again paid
us a visit. One solitary canoe first reached us, and the
owner finding no competitors, and that he was likely
to have the market to himself, with great shrewdness
exhibited only one article at a time, and kept at such a
distance from the siiip, as to preclude all possibility
of our overlooking his cargo. He however trifled so
long as to lose all his customers, and was quite in
despair on seeing several more canoes coming off.
Every thing he possessed was now drawn from his boat
and pressingly offered, and amongst other things he
produced a fine unicorn's horn, which, of course,
readily found a purchaser.

Two large Oomiak's (women, or family boats) at
length came alongside, filled with women and young
children, and steered, as we had before observed to be
the ciise, each by an old man. These people were no

TASSAGE UP HUDSON S STRAIT.

at
mg
be
no

sooner alongside than they commenced singing and
dancing with great vehemence ; and to my surprise
an old blind woman joined in the merriment with as
great apparent delight as her companions. In this
boat was a man who had lost one of his arms.
Several single canoes hung alongside by ropes which
were thrown to them, and in this state, with a fresh
breeze, we ran until we came amongst some heavy
ice, when our visitors were warned to take pre-
cautions against being jammed. Such, however,
was their ardour for barter, that we could neither
induce them to move, or to pay attention to our
signs, and as to hearing us amidst their own din,
it was impossible. At length, as we expected, a
woman's boat was badly stove by a piece of ice
cutting one of the bottom skins. Silence immediately
ensued, and it was pleasing to observe the attention
which was paid to the sufferers by all the men, who left
off trading, and assisted to haul the damaged boat on
a piece of ice for the purpose of repairing her, and
even those who could not be of any service remained
behind with the rest.

After a time, a fine lively boy, in a most elegant
white canoe, came paddling up to us, and keeping way
with the ship, endeavoured to insinuate himself into
our good graces, by talking and laughing incessantly.
He succeeded to his wish, and was enriched by
presents of buttons, nails, beads, and pieces of old
iron, all of which he acknowledged by a peculiarly
joyous C17, at the same time cramming them into his

PASSAGE UP HUDSON'S STKAIT.

II'

mouth. When this store-house was filled, he made
as long a speech as his riches would permit, and
turning for the shore, parted from us with the swift-
ness of an arrow.

On the 24th, to our infinite astonishment, we did
not see a single piece of ice, and in consequence
beat up to the N. W. without interruption, until the
evening of the 25th, when we were off the Upper
Savage Island. Parties here landed from each ship,
and the requisite observations being taken, we all set
out on excursions to explore the island. It is high
and rocky, principally of a reddish granite, but pro-
ducing also gneiss and sandstone. Its length is about
three miles, its breadth two. Near where we landed
were quantities of bones, which we conjectured to be
those of the walrus. Much frozen snow lay in the clefts
of the rocks, whence issued small streams of water.
On the top of the isle were many pools beautifully
transparent, near one of which a grouse (tetrao lago-
pus), in summer plumage, was killed. In the marshy
ground, near the water, the vegetation was extremely
luxuriant. Amidst the various mosses and grasses,
the delicate white flower of the andromeda, and
brilliant yellow poppy, were eminently conspicuous.
In drier places, a beautiful species of butter-cpp
was very abundant, as was also the dwarf willow, of
which I had heard so much, but had never seen before.
This arctic tree grows close to the ground, and
spreads its lilliputian branches over an extent of
from one to three feet. Its stalk rarely exceeds

PASSAGK UP HUDSON'S STRAIT.

three inches in circumference, and all the wood is
twisted and deformed. On many of the higher parts
of tlie rock were piled small heaps of stones, near one
of which I found part of a human skull. Two hares
and several little snow buntins were seen. Fragments
of a whale's skeleton, driftwood^ and ivory, marked
by instruments, showed that Eskimaux had at some
time been settled here ; and fire-places were also
seen by many of our party. Footsteps of some
cloven-footed animal, probably the rein-deer, were
frequently met with. Moskitoes were very numerous,
as were also common flies. Amongst the lichens, I
observed a very diminutive insect resembling a mite
in figure, but possessing great activity of motion.
It was of the most brilliant scarlet, and tinged the
fingers of the same hue when taken between them ;
being, on account of its extreme delicacy, instantly
crushed.

On the 27th, ^8th, and until the evening of the
^9th, when we were beset, we made some little pro-
gress as the various state of the weather and ice per-
mitted. The aurora borealis was once seen during
this time in the west. It was faint, and did not ex-
hibit any interesting peculiarities of appearance.

A small drag net, let down to the bottom in 64
fathoms, procured for us some interesting specimens
of moluscae, and several beautifully delicate varieties
of white coral. Amongst the polypi was one of a
very singular description, and of a pale pink colour.
On being taken into the hand it threw out several

'4'\<

I'ASSAGK UP HUDSON'S STRAIT.

I,-

small balls of various sizes from that of a hemp seed
to the bigness of a white currant, which fruit they
almost exactly resembled in colour, transparency, and
consistence. Their form was perfectly globular ; and,
even with the aid of a microscope, I could discover
no opening in them. Some, on being boiled, became
soft and flabby, although they did not burst ; and
others, which I put in spirits, retained to a certain ex-
tent their first appearance. With the above animals
many fragments of stone were brought from the
bottom, and these consisted of granite, gneiss, red
feldspar, and limestone. Great quantities of seals
were seen during the day in active chase of each other
in the water, which the seamen call a seal's wedding.
The 30th, and great part of the 31st, we were so
enveloped in fog as to be under the necessity of
keeping company by signal guns, and during the
whole of this time had a most favourable wind, of
which in this unknown coast we dared not take ad-
vantage. When it cleared, however, we again made
some progress along shore, and in the evening saw
Cape Dorset and Salisbury Island. While off^ the
first of these places we observed several canoes using
every exertion to come up with us, and we waited to
receive theln. Eight kayaks (men's canoes) and one
oomiak soon joined, but were very unwilling to come
near us. A boat was therefore lowered from each
ship to go to them, and purchase curiosities, as well
as a supply of oil for the use of the ships. Ail the
men wore jackets entirely composed of the skins of

VISIT FKOM THE NATIVES.

ii5

birds, having tlic feathers next the body. This dress
appeared to have undergone no more curing than in
scraping the fat from the inside of the skins, and
afterwards drying tliem. The women were clothed
as our former visitors, but their dresses appeared
neither so good, clean, or neatly sewed. Both sexes,
however, had cleaner faces, or much fairer complexions ;
and such is taste, and so singularly it varies, that there
was one of the young girls whom we considered as very
pretty. I was happy in being able to see the sail of
the oomiak, which was lug-shaped, and formed of the
intestines of walrus, sewed together with great neat-
ness, in breadths of about four inches. The mast,
which was placed well forward, was made of wood,
and had a very neatly formed ivory sheave for the
halyards to run on. In this boat we found but little
to purchase, with the exception of oil. Another com-
modity however was offered, in the shape of a young
child, which, as it really appeared, the mother would
have sold me. I had a knife, and a piece of iron in my
hand, and with the latter wished to purchase a seal's
skin, but the woman having taken a fancy to the knife,
endeavoured to obtain it by alternate offers of seals'
skins and bags of oil. At length, of her own accord, she
lifted up a little child, of about four years of age, and
apparently a girl, offering it with one hand^and holding
out the other to receive the knife. Can it be possible
that in three instances I should have been mistaken,and
that the women would not sell their infants ? All I
can learn of these people certainly gives them great

D *^

I H

VISIT I'llOM THK NATIVES

praise for affection to their children. This however
may at some future time be cleared up.

An old man had charge of the ladies as usual, and
was not very ceremonious with them, giving to those
who stood in his way pretty smart shoves and blows
with his elbows. Amongst the traders was one man
who afforded much amusement by lying at a short
distance, and holding up a raw and bloody piece of
blubber, for which he demanded a nail in exchange;
showing at the same time his high sense of the value
of this equivalent by uttering loud cries, and licking
the inviting morsel with as many smacks of the lips,
and expressions of satisfaction, as a young child would
discover while attacking a rich sweetmeat.

There was another man, who possessed a far ipore
enticing piece of goods, aline unicorns horn ; but when
he had received a piece of iron in exchange for it, he,
with a shout of triumph, shoved off, without giving up
the horn. He appeared perfectly insensible to all our
stratagems to •allure him alongside, and in vain were
glittering knives and other treasures displayed for
this purpose. During this time the other poor wretches
were eagerly selling all their possessions, and stripping
themselves of every article of dress which could find
a purchaser.

We at length made sail, when our friend of the
horn ran up alongside, and sold it for a knife to the
man he had first cheated ; but in this last instance he
again attempted to escape with his prize The horn
was six feet in length, and weighed lylbs. .

OF CAPE DOHSKT. 3i

In this <lay*s party I saw but one beggar. On the
whole these people neither appeared so noisy, impu-
dent, or fearless, as our first visitants, and they were
certainly much poorer, at least if we might judge by
the state of their clothing.

We beat up along shore between Cape Dorset and
Salisbury, and Nottingham Islands, during the morn-
ing of the 1st of August, which was mild and fine;
and in the course of the day received another visit
from the Eskimaux, who came off in four men's
boats and one oomiack. They had little to sell,
but we derived much amusement from the more
than usually grotesque crew of the latter, which,
in this instance, was commanded in chief by an old
and fat woman, although two stout boys were with
her. This female coxswain carried a small child at
her back, in whose features we fancied it possible
to trace some resemblance to European infants,
although its colour, natural or artificial, was many
shades darker. There were several other voung
children in this boat, very pretty little savages, with
fine dark eyes, and white teeth ; but although their
countenances were lively and intelligent, there was
a kind of wildness in their looks, not a little
heightened by the profusion of " elf locks'* which
hung over their necks and faces. One poor
infant, notwithstanding the tumult caused by the
elder people, lay quietly asleep in the bottom of
the boat, wrapped in a skin, and having both legs
jammed into a boot. Its mouth was filled with a

;i8

VISIT I'llOM THK NATIVES

large piece of blubber, which kept the jaws distended,
and probably caused the child to fancy itself still at the
breast, for it moved its lips as infants do when they
dream. I had forgotten this quiet little personage
for some time, but on looking again, found it still in
a sound sleep, in defiance of the numberless thumps
and kicks it received from the women as they danced
and scrambled about the boat. It lay so torpidly
that one of our people thought it was dead, which
induced him to go into the boat and set the little
sleeper upright. The child no sooner opened its
eyes, than creeping into a corner of the boat for se-
curity, it occasionally peeped out with the same stupid
gravity as a young owl when exposed to a strong glare
of light. On observing the cork which had filled the
babe's mouth, I found it was not that of a seal, and
soon discovered a large piece of fresh whale's blubber,
with the skin on, lying in the stern of the boat.

One of the officers purchased a hatchet of English
manufacture, bearing the initials H". V and Co. It
was mounted like an adze, on a short handle, to which
it was very firmly attached by strong thongs of hide.
The iiaft was scooped out in such a way as to allow
the hand to fit it, and each finger had its particular
place.

Some of the girls gave every thing they received
in exchange to the old woman commanding the
boat, who instantly put them into her mouth (which
is the principal pocket of these people), whatever
their nature might be. Her riches at length almost

or i'Al'K DORSKT.

•iO

choked her j needles, pins, nails, buttons, beads, and
other et ceteras, being most happily jumbled together;
yet, to my surprise, she did not become less noisy or
voluble in her speech, although I saw that she could
not open her mouth without dropping some part of
her treasures, which a little girl was employed in
picking up again. In the afternoon the number of
our visitors increased ; and one man in particular
gained our friendship by his merriment, and the
strict honesty of his dealings. His boat lay alongside
that of the women, and as we had good way through
the water, it required all his attention to keep her
steady: unfortunately, he was for a moment off his
guard, and his frail canoe upset, leaving him beneath
it. We were extremely anxious about this poor fel-
low ; as he had not his paddle in readiness, we knew
that he could not right his boat again, as is the custom,
and were fully aware of the difficulty he must have
in extricating himself from a vessel so contrived, that
the sitter is encased nearly to the arms : a boat was in
consequence instantly lowered and sent to his assist-
ance ; but we soon had the satisfaction of seeing him
rise, and haul himself gradually on to the bottom of
the canoe, lying on his belly, and balancing with his
hands and legs lest this slight support should once
more fail him. He appeared totally unconcerned,
and never once looked to see if assistance was coming,
although he was a long way astern. On being taken
into our boat, he neither expressed pleasure or sur-
prise at his deliverance, but grasping his paddle.

1 1

VISIT FIIO.M TlfK NATIVKS

which had been picked up near the canoe, very
quietly sat in the bow and assisted in rowing on
board ; his own boat in the meantime towing astern
full of water.

His countrymen and women, when they saw him
upset, took not the slightest notice of his disaster,
but continuing their dancing and barter, did not turn
their heads a second time to see if he was alive, or if
any person was gone to his relief. This brutal in-
sensibility, although differing from their behaviour
when the women's boat was stove some days before,
yet exactly agrees with what Crantz relates of the in-
sensibility of the Greenlanders on similar occasions.

When our unfortunate cast-away came alongside,
he succeeded in borrowing a jacket from some of his
paity, and, as he had lost his iron, I gave him u
whole hoop, and some wood to repair his broken
paddle, which made him the richest of all our visitors.
The mistress of the oomiak lent him a small whale-
bone scoop to bale his boat out, and I observed that he
seemed to have some authority over her, for he after-
wards assisted her in the traffic, and appropriated
to himself whatever was given in exchange : from
these circumstances we concluded they were man and
wife, yet his tender partner did not cast one glance
behind when she was in such danger of being widowed.
All the Eskimaux we had seen, were fat and in good
case ; and the men of this day were remarkable for
having more beard than the Savage Island people.
As we were now going out of the known parts of

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Ol CAl»K DOUSKT.

Hudson's Bay, and as we might not again meet with
a woman's boat, I shall here describe it as well as I
am able.

The oomiak (umiak, Greenland), or luggage boat,
is chiefly used, according to Crantz, for the purpose
of removing the effects of families in their excursions
during the summer season. The frame-work is of
wood and whalebone, the bottom flat, and both head
and stern nearly square. The skins which cover the
frame are of the seal, and deprived of hair ; they are
at all times somewhat transparent, but more parti-
cularly so when wetted. Seats, to the amount of five
or six, are placed in the boat as with Europeans.
Two very clumsy oars, with flat blades, are pulled by
the women, and one is used by the person who steers.
The sides of the bout are flat, and about three feet
high ; they vary much in size. Of those which came
off the first time, there was one which measured twenty-
five feet by eight, and contained women, boys, and small
children, to the amount of twenty-one persons.

On the morning of the 2d we had run out of sight
of the land. The refraction of the horizon was ob-
served to be more than usually great. During the
forenoon we came to much ice, whose motion was
extremely impetuous : each piece, whatever might be
its magnitude, and some were very large and heavy,
appeared to have an independent impetus, and the
noise with which they rushed together, resembled the
sound of a torrent of water. We were at this time
near the spot which, in the charts, is assigned to the
Mill Islands, but did not see them ; this name was

4i>

VASS THK MILL ISLANDS.

jj;iv(Mi thoin by Bartin in Kil.'), "by reasoiiof grinding
tlic ice," a circumstance which has been noticed by
other navigators. We found the tides to be mipetuous
and irreguhu' ; and when the ice slackened a Httle, so
as to allow of our making some progress, we observed
that, although the ship was going three knots tinough
the water, several large j)ieces of ice, whicli drew more
tlian tlie ships, were lieading us as if we liad been at
anchor. From all that I could observe during the
time we were on this innnediate spot, 1 am inclined
to believe that on this site is the coiiHux of two op-
|)Osing tides, which occasion the extraordinary eddies
amongst the ice. From this day until the <Jth we lay
beset, nothing occurring of interest, except that on the
4th we lirst saw Southampton Island to the westward,
and veiy distant.

On the morning of the 9th we made a little
progress to the westward, passing the largest and
heaviest Hoe we had yet seen, it being about lour
miles by two in extent. A narwhal, or sea-unicorn,
made its ap^Hjarancc several times near the ship,but not
close enough for us to distinguish its horn. In the
afternoon,by working to the N. W. we got to the north-
ward of Southampton Island, and into the entrance
of what appeared a deep broad strait, bounded to the
northward by what we supposed to be islands.

We made pretty good progress until noon of
the 10th, when we were rapidly beset, and con-
tinued so almost constantly until midnight of the
11th, by which time we had arrived close under
the northern islands. Here we were again beset.

IN I'HK I'llOZKN STllAir.

4{}

until the afternoon of the l'2th, drivinj^ rapidly to
the southward ; the niovinjjf ice striking^ us very
heavily at times. A black whale and several uni-
corns were frecjuently seen. On the larjj^e Hoe, to
which we were fast, were vest quantities of stones,
mud, sand, and weed ; the Hrsl of these were various
kinds of granite, gneiss, horneblende, ([uartz, black
and white mica, lime-stone, uuidrepore, and clay slate.
Some of the j)ieccs of granite contained abundance of
small but very brilliant garnets. It is a cause of sur-
prise how such quantities of stones and shells as we
had lately seen could be thrown on pieces of ice of
from (me to several miles in circumference; and
above all, that these extraneous substances shoidd be
as plentiful in the centre as near the edge of the
floes. Of these objects 1 made a small aiul very
pretty collection, and, in subsequent visits to the
shore, there were several of the kinds which 1 was
unable to find. 1 learnt from Captain Parry that he
had landed on the night of the 11th on a small low
island, for the purpose of ascertaining the set and
time of the tide : he there found the remains of an
Eskimaux hut; and brought olf some mosses, grasses,
and specimens of granite.

In the afternoon the ice drove past us with a fresh
breeze, and left the ships and their protecting floe in
open water. No ice was in sight to the westward,
and for the first time since entering the straits from
the Atlantic a long troubled sea arose. I mention
this circumstance, in order to favour a remark on the
extraordinary and unforeseen changes to which this

IX TIIK FJIOZKX STRAIT.

navigation is subject, for by 6 p. :\i. we were suddenly
beset by a vast body of ice from the northward, and
in three hours not a single hole of water could be
seen from the mast-head in any direction. After
this period the ice again opened, and we had abundant
sailing room, of v/hich we took advantage.

On the 13th the weather was calm and fine, and
as the unicorns were numerous round us, boats were
sent, but without success, to strike one. There were
sometimes as many as twenty of these beautiful fish
in a shoal, lifting at times their immense horn above
the water, and at others showing their glossy backs,
which were spotted in the manner of coach-dogs in Eng-
land. The length of these fish is about fifteen feet,
exclusive of the horn, which averages five or six more.

As was expected, we were close beset in the after-
noon. Tiie ships were now in a vast basjn, having
four apparent outlets, of which an opening to the
N. W. particularly attracted our attention, and was
now about ten miles distant. In the evening a large
bear was seen lying on the ice, a-head of the Fury,
and as the ships drove slov.ly towards him, he rose to
approach them. A large party of the Fury's people
went to attack him ; but were scarcely within shot,
when he turned and made for the shore with a speed
I could not have believed so unwieldy a beast capable
of exerting. His pace was a kind of shuffle, but I
certainly think as quick as a sharp gallop of a horse.
Three other bears were seen during the first watch,
but at a great distance, and not coming towards us.

We continued beset, though not quiet (for at each

ci
oj
w

IN TlIK I'ROZKN STRAIT.

change of tide we worked anxiously to get into some
open water near us), until the forenoon of the Kith,
when we got clear of the pack after four hours hard
labour. The Fury was by this time in the centre of
the strait ; aiul in the afternoon we picked up her
small boat, which Captain Parry had obligingly sent
to inform me of some dangers he had discovered in
the channel, which he had sounded at various times
during the preceding night. In his note he also in-
formed me that he had slept on Southampton Island,
where he saw remains of Eskimaux huts, and even
fancied he heard the cries of those people on the hills.
In pools on the beach, himself and boat's crew caught
sufficient sillocks, or young coal-fish, to serve for two
meals for his ship's company, and a dish of them
which he sent me was very fine. During the night
the white whales lay literally in hundreds close to
the rocks, probably feeding on the sillocks.

In consequence of the great force of the NW.
tide setting out of the opening, we were five hours
in getting through the Narrows, a distance of about
three miles. The night set in as we accomplished
this; and coming into soundings at midnight, we
found the Fury, and anchored near her. Daring
the afternoon, large flocks of snow buntins flew past
us, and numerous unicorns were seen, until we came
to the Narrows, when they were as abundantly sup-
planted by the white whales. *

When morning broke on the 17th, we found that
the ships were anchored off a low beach at the head
of an immense and beautiful bav. A thick haze

IN THK FllOZKX STRAIT.

hung over the low land, but boats from eacli ship
landed to explore this interesting place. The re-
quisite observations being made, parties were sent
inland to examine its productions, and to search for
game. The shingle beach was so shoal, that the
boats grounded at some distance from it, and the
whole of the western land, as far as we could see,
was one uninterrupted plain, abounding in lakes and
marshes occasioned by the recent melting of the
snows. The vegetation was rich in the usual Arctic
plants, grasses, mosses, poppies, and the ground
willow. Several rein-deer were seen a short distance
inland, and a fox was killed by one of the Fury's
dogs. The rib of a whale was found about three
miles inland^ and in a contrary direction, but equi-
distant from the sea ; the crown bone of one of these
creatures was also observed.

Near the beach were seen the remains of several
Eskimaux huts; and one of the officers, who walked
to the westward, found several perfect ones of a
coniqal form, resembling lime-kilns, but having only
an entrance at the top. They were all of stone.
On looking into one he saw a human skull, which was
split longitudinally, but no other bones were near it.

Moskitoes were very numerous, and we were fre-
quently reminded of their presence by extremely
sharp stings. I also saw a few flies, of which some
that I caught appeared to my uninformed eye like
the common house-fly in England. The poor things
were so benumbed by the cold as to be unable to fly,
and their only motion was by short hops, like insects

DUKK OF YORK'S BAY.

which have burnt their wings in a candle. The
ground was in many places much burrowed by some
small animal, and one mouse (mus Hudsonius), was
caught, which resembled those found at Melville Island.
During my walk I saw no rocks, the ground being
almost entirely swampy. A block of gneiss or gra-
nite occasionally occurred, but merely lying on the
surface. The beach afforded us a few common shells,
and some in a fossil state. The boats were left above
a quarter of a mile on the flat beach by the ebb tide,
and in launching them we found several beautiful
varieties of madrepore. Our birds which had been
shot were many of them new to us, and were as
follows :

Large black-throated diver.
Red-throated diver,
Pintailed duck (females),
Black-throated golden plover,
Swiss lapwing.
Gray phalarope,
Glaucus gull,
Boatswain gull.

Colymbus Arcticus.
Colymbus septentrionalis.
Anas glacialis.
Charadrius Africanus.
Tringa Helvoetica.
Tringa lobata.
Larus glaucus.
Larus parasiticus.

And some small sandpipers. Amongst the birds
seen, but not procured, were the eider duck, tern or
Greenland swallow, plovers, and the snowy owl.

We weighed before noon, and having ran about
three miles to the northward, found the water shoal
so rapidly that we again came to an anchor. As
there was the appearance of a small outlet in this
direction. Captain Parry went with two boats to
examine it. In the evening he returned, having

DUKK OF YOKKS HAY.

Ibiind the passage impassable even for boats. The
width was from one to two miles, but the whole
channel at low water was choked up by shoals, be-
tween which the ebb tide came from the northward at
the rate of five or six knots ! On one of these places
was a singular building, constructed of the two jaw-
bones of a whale set upright, and covered over at
the top with whalebone. Each boat took a share of
this last to make brooms, and a boarding-pike was
left in payment. In the grey of the evening several
deer came to feed close to the low beach, and fre-
quent flights of ducks and tern passed us.

Since our first arrival, numerous whales were con-
stantly seen, and at one time two parties of seven
each lay for some minutes within fifty yards of us.
Our Greenland masters expressed much astonish-
ment at finding these fish in such shallow water, and
were more so at not seeing any of their skeletons, as
the flatness of the beach warranted the supposition
that the tide must occasionally leave one of these
monsters aground.

On the 18th, we ran to the south end of the bay
during a fog, trusting entirely to our leads. An-
choring, two boats were sent to trace the continuity
of the low land at the bottom of the bight, whicb
was about ten miles distant. In the mean time I
landed on the high eastern land with Captain Parry,
in order to have a full view of the surrounding
country. On landing, we were led by a gradual
ascent of about half a mile to the foot of the moun-
tains. This slope was composed of thin sounding

IN THE DUKE OF YORK'S JJAV.

plates of magnesian limestone j and the few stunted
willows, rising three or four inches from the ground,
reminded me forcibly of the southern ascent to the
** Soudah mountains " in Fezzan. The resemblance
was not a little strengtliened by the total absence of
all living creatures. The mountains, which were of
granite, were traversed by very broad veins of red
feldspar. We procured some fine specimens of white
quartz, mica, and large but imperfect garnets in de-
composing gneiss. I was so fortunate as to pick up
a fine fossil imbedded in limestone, and resembling
in some respects the root of a stag's horn. Above
the granite, on the mountain's top, was an extensive
plain^ entirely of the same fragments of limestone as
we had seen on the beach.

The summit of the mountains afforded us an ex-
cellent view across the western or low side of the
bay, but in no direction could we discover a distant
sea. The form of the basin was so clearly defined
as to leave no doubt that we must go out by the
same channel as we had entered. On descending
we saw a solitary gray phalarope, ranging undis-
turbed in a broad water-course, near which some
snow was lying in the ravines, which doubtless sup-
plied several small streamlets we had found trickling
down the rocks. Desolate as this shore was, yet we
found traces of Eskimaux, as we had invariably done
wherever a landing was made. On a small eminence
was a pile of stones, and near it were others, in a
circle. Our visit to the high land, and the ob-

IN THE DUKE OF VOllKS BAY.

!•:

servations made by tlic ships and boats, now con-
vinced ns that wc had discovered one of the most
magnificent and conunodious harbours perhaps in
the world, in which the whole British navy might
find anchorage. The soundings were good, the bot-
tom of strong clay, and the entrance so formed as to
be capable of being most completely fortified. From
some officers who had also landed on the east side of
the bay, I learnt that they had found the crown bones
of two whales : one very high on the beach, above any
tide marks, and the other some hundred yards up
the side of a sloping hill. The boats having returned
at midnight from sounding the south bay, we weighed
at daylight of the 19th ; but having run a few miles
towards the strait, the wind failed us, and wc an-
chored near a small shoal which we had found in the
centre of the bay. I landed on this with Captain
Parry. From its shape, and the peculiar soundings
round it, I conceive it must have been formed by
the tides sweeping round the bay. We erected a
pile of stones on the spot, but they were covered by
the tide before the ships had cleared the strait, which,
on weighing, we accomplished by the evening. The
sea was clear of ice, and the night fine ; when, at
10 p. M. one of the most sudden and violent squalls-
I almost ever saw came sweeping from the north-
ward, and barely allowed us to reduce the ship to main-
topsail and foresail. A sea soon rising gave us much
trouble, as a heavy stream of ice lay in our way, and
we did not pass it without some severe shocks.

!!•

IN THK FROZKN STRAIT.

The inoining of the ^Oth showed us most clearly
that wc were in the Frozen Strait of Middleton.
An anxious day was closed by passing an opening to
the southward, which was Sir Thomas Roe's Wel-
come, and running for some high land to the NW.
which appeared to form a bay. We then hove to
for the night.

For some time past our compasses had been nearly
useless, and each advance which we made to the
northward, rendered them still worse. Thick wea-
ther had precluded our making any celestial ob-
servations during the last forty-eight hours ; so that
we were very anxious for the morning, to allow us
to judge if we had arrived at the first stage of our
journey. Morning came, but cloudy : we, however,
distinguished land all round us, although imperfectly
marked. Snow and thick weather soon came on,
during which we continued beating up to the north-
ward and westward. At eight p. m. the sky cleared
up, and we found ourselves in an immense and clearly
defined bay, the extreme points of which, as far as
we could then judge, were from NE. by E. to SW.
by S. We lay to for the night, and by the moon-
light saw that the bottom of the bay was clear of ice.
The weather moderated, the barometer rose, and the
wind came fair in readiness for the morrow. The
moon this night exhibited a very singular appearance ;
for a ray, or stream of light, shot up or down alter-
nately from the upper and lower edge, and resembled
in either case the tail of a comet. This phenomenon

KNTKU UKPULSK UAV

invariably acquired additional brilliancy from tbe
intervention of a passing cloud, which caused no
change in the form of the ray.

On the morning of the 2*2d of August we ran
into Repulse Bay ; and, leaving the ships under sail,
Captain Parry and myself, with several officers of
each ship, went on shore on the northern side. Mr.
Palmer, in the mean time, was despatched with a boat
to examine the bottom of the bay.

Near the point on which we landed, were found
the remains of an immense Eskimaux settlement.
Above sixty circles of stones (which are used to
confine down the lower edges of the skin-tents) were
counted, several small fire-places covered with soot,
about a dozen perfect store-houses for flesh, and
every thing which would make the place appear to
have been inhabited of late years. Numerous high
piles of stones were fantastically reared amongst the
dwelling-places, and many were so formed as at a
short distance to bear an exact resemblance to the
human figure. Some parties went inland to shoot ;
but, as I wished to obtain observations, I was by that
means prevented enjoying my first American walk
to any extent. I had, however, time to stroll to a
neighbouring hill, where I had the satisfaction of
finding, with the assistance of one of our men, the
crown-bone, and, ultimately, the whole skeleton of a
whale. It lay across the upper end of a small green
ravine, and was at least 100 feet above the level of
the sea! With the exception of the head, every

IlKPULSK BAY.

part was covered with fresh moss and dark earth,
through wliich a sinall stream of water was oozing.

It is well known that the Eskimaux carry large
portions of whales* bones to their huts, for the pur-
pose of collecting the oil which exudes from them ;
and they afterwards make use of the dry bone in
constructing sledges, &c. Yet, allowing this to be
the case, I can in no manner conceive it possible
for them to remove an entire skelelton even one foot,
much less up the steep side of a hill. The remains
of which I speak were so situated that no dwellings
could be placed any where near them, and the fact
of their lying in a water-course docs away with the
idea of their having been brought to the spot for the
sake of the oil.

Having entered on this subject, it may not be
irrelevant to mention again the facts of having found
three crown-bones at a distance from the sea in the
Duke of York's Bay ; and to these I may add that
which Captain Liddon found during the last voyage,
a mile and upwards inland, on Melville Island, and
having others of the whale's bones near it. This,
as did two of the above mentioned, was lying on
a flat secondary formation ; but the skeleton I had
found was on a granite rock, covered, as I have
observed, with moss and swampy earth.

Continuing my ramble, I found some other Eski-
maux circles and piles, in which were bones only
recently picked, torn skins of birds, broken utensils,
and old shoes, mittens, &c. In a ruined grave I

REPULSE BAY.

found a human skull, which appeared perfect, but it
broke on my lifting it up. A long cove (of which
there were many on the shore) ran up near the huts,
and its waters were absolutely hidden by the quantities
of young eider ducks, which, under the direction of
their mothers, were making their first essays in
swimming. Near them I started a white owl, and
pursued this magnificent bird for some time, but in
vain. Our sportsmen, who returned at noon, brought
with them a white hare, and an ermine in its summer
coat. They had seen several rein-deer in the di-
stance. One of the Fury's men had found a grave
formed of rough stones, so as to shelter the body
in a kind of vault. Near the skeleton were laid
implements of the chase, such as ivory spear-heads,
stone arrow-heads, knives of wood, ivory, and slate,
and one having a very decayed blade of iron. Broken
arrows, and a variety of little models of canoes and
paddles, apparently the toys of children, completed
this assortment of articles which had once been of use;
and there were also several long and slender pieces
of asbestos, which, but for the weight, might have
been taken for chips of decayed fir. I afterwards
learned that three other graves had been found, and
believe they contained some of the same articles as the
first.

At noon we obtained a meridian altitude, which
gave the latitude 66" 30' ,51" N. ; and by good
sights the longitude was found to be 86° 28' 4" W.
Before returning on board I caught two little tail-

HEPULSK BAY.

less mice ; and having put them in a hox, they
devoured with avidity, bread, cheese, meat, and
grass : never did I see two such voracious animals.
Their appetite, however, was their ruin ; as, in a
few hours, I found one had half devoured the other,
and was itself at the last gasp. Mr. Palmer came on
board at 5 p. m. and reported having found an-
other bay at the bottom of the large one. This place
had been hidden from our view by islands, and was
five or six miles in extent. At its entrance, huts were
found, which appeared to have been very recently in-
habited ; for near them were lying pieces of the skins
of musk-oxen, deer, bears, seals, &c. Numerous
black whales were seen by Mr. Palmer when exa-
mining the coast of this little bight ; and having
ascertained beyond a doubt that no passage existed
through to the westward, he returned on board.
Thus our examinations of this much-doubted place
were terminated ; and the veracity of poor Middle-
ton, as far as regards this bay at least, was now at
length established; and in looking down the strait
we had passed, he was fully justified in calling it a
" frozen strait." We were now indisputably on
our scene of future action, the coast of America ;
and it only remained for us to follow minutely the
line of shore in continuation from Repulse Bay.

5(>

liUUD's CHANNEL EXPLOltKD.

CHAPTER II.

Expedition to examine Hurd's Channel — Anchor within it— Far-
ther examination — Gore Bay discovered— Red snow — Dangers
of Hurd's Cliannel — Enter a large inlet — Captain Parry's ab-
sence in boats — He meets with Natives — Captain Parry's
second absence and return — Approach of winter — Ships stopped
by young ice — Cut into, and take, winter-quarters.

During the early part of the morning of the 23rd,
which was hazy, we coasted Repulse Bay, and, leaving
it, passed two other indentations of the shore, while
following the continuity of the land to the eastward.
Heavy streams of ice lay in our way, and a strong set
of tide was in opposition to us. At 5 p. m. an open-
ing was discovered, and Captain Parry was induced,
from its appearance, to anchor the ships off its mouth,
whence was a great rush of tide, bringing very heavy
ice with it. I gladly accepted Captain Parry's pro-
posal to explore this place, as we could not afford
time to wait for fine weather, in order to obtain a
clear view from the ships ; and accompanied by Mr.
Bushnan and four men, provisioned fcr four days, we
set out, taking with us a boat in case of having to
pass any other inlet than the one we saw. We had
a small tent, which, in the form of the roof of a
house, and supported on four boarding pikes, held

IIUIID'S CHANNEL EXPLOllEl).

us comfortably. Our dry clothes, and a blanket
made into a bag, were in knapsacks. Leaving the
ships at 7 PM. we pulled to the high land, forming
the western boundary of the inlet, and landed on a
rocky point, on which very heavy ice lay aground.
Hauling our boat up, and marking her situation with
a small flag, we strapped on our luggage, and set out
for a hill about two miles to the northward ; and on
whose summit we had no sooner arrived, than we
perceived we were on an island of about seven miles
in length, running east and west. From hence our
view, owing to the constant rain which fell, was so
limited, that we were more confused than benefited
by it. We therefore returned to the boat to pass the
night, which set in before wc reached her. On our
descent the ships were observed driving to seaward,
pressed by the heavy ice and impetuous current, which
was setting out upon them *. We pitched our tent on
the rocks where we landed, and lay down until the
morning. In the course of the night the ice set past
the point on which we were, at the rate of at least
four knots ; and the pressure was at times so great as
to cause large pieces to burst with loud reports on the
low rocks and grounded hummocks, over which it
became piled in many places to a great height.

The whole of this ice consisted of compact, heavy,
and dirty pieces, evidently not of the last year's f irma-
tion, but apparently from some large sea, which is

* The Fury lost an ancljor by the heavy strain which carno
'lowii on hor.

.'58

JOURNEY TO EXPLORE

not often broken up. Constant rain fell throughout
the night : and at 2 a.m. on the 24th, perceiving it
was slack tide, we launched the boat. The inlet,
however, was literally choked up with ice, but which
was fortunately so heavy as to allow us a precarious
passage between the grounded masses and the rocks.
Two hours labour brought us to the northern shore
of Bushnan's Isle, whence, finding open water, we
crossed the strait to the northward for a high bluff,
which we had seen from the ships. About mid
channel we passed a rocky isle or isles, two or
three miles ia circumference. On rounding a small
bluff at this place, on which were great numbers
of the silvery gulls and then' young, we saw four
deer feeding in a little valley, but they ran quickly
from us, and we shortly after saw an old bear and her
cub galloping along the rocks, near the water*s edge,
and apparently watching us. They shortly after went
into the sea amongst some ice, and we lost sight of
them. This circumstance induced me to name the
place Bear Island. The strait which we crossed may
be estimated at about four miles in breadth, and having
passed it we landed on a low rocky point, on which
we hauled the boat.

Leaving the point, which I named after my old
friend and messmate Captain Cheyne, we made on
for what I had called Brook's Bluff, which, owing to
the heavy rain, was but indistinctly seen. Our road
lay over steep and precipitous rocks of granite and
gneiss, and we were occasionally relieved by passing
tl\rougli .^luall vallev.s and f5\vampy ravines. Two

HURD'S CHANNEL.

id
iu

d
d

hours brought us to the Bluff, whence we anticipated
an extensive view, but had scarcely climbed its steep
side, and reached the summit, when u very heavy
snow-storm suddenly fell, and, covering the mountain,
limited our prospect to a few yards. As our ascent
had been difficult, I was fully aware of the impropriety
of waiting until the snow had fallen in sufficient
quantity to cover our path. Taking therefore a
hasty and most comfortless breakfast, we descended
with great caution. Our hopes being for the time
defeated, and our curiosity as to what lay before us
more strongly excited, I determined, when the weather
should clear up a little, to proceed to the eastward,
but in the mean time, having found that the eastern
part of the Bluff was covered with silveiy gulls and
their young, we amused ourselves in procuring enough
for our day's meal. The spots on which these
birds assembled were nearly perpendicular, and quite
clear of the attacks of any wild animals. There was
no appearance of nests, but the young ones sat in
clusters of three on the naked rock. While gull
shooting, four deer ran past us. When the weather
cleared a little, we passed along the borders of an ex-
tensive lake, lying at the foot of the Bluff, and in
which countless multitudes of young gulls were learn-
ing to fish and swim under the guidance of the pa-
rent birds, which, with incessant cries, were hovering
near them. Three hours walk over a country ren-
dered doubly gloomy by incessant rain brought us to
a small strait about a mile in breadth. As this place

i '

JOUILNEY TO EXPLOKK

excited some interest, I determined on following it to
the northward. The people were left to pitch the
tent, and, if possible, make a fire ; and I then set out
with Mr. Bushnan and one seaman. Having walked
about six miles from the tent, we arrived on an open
sea, over which the thick weather did not permit our
obtaining a view of above half a mile. We were there-
fore constrained to return without having satisfied our-
selves. A covey of ten ptarmigan flew past, and we
also saw six very timid deer. A marmotte was added
to our stock of specimens. We had endeavoured to
take him alive, but as he ran under a large stone, and
defended himself with great vigour, we killed him.
This creature, on being first besieged, threw out of
his mouth a great quantity of small roots and buds,
on which he had been feeding, and repeatedly uttered
a shrill cry, resembling a chirp and a whistle, if it be
possible to combine two such sounds.

In the evening the rain ceased for the first time
since leaving the ships, and permitted our making a
fire and cooking our birds. The rocks being covered
with wet spongy moss, we paved our tent with rough
stones, and spreading the ashes of our fire of andro-
meda over these, made a tolerably dry bed. Con-
stant snow fell during the night, which was very cold,
and at 6 A. M. on the 25th, we again set out, coasting
the little channel to the southward, and thence round
to point Cheyne, where we arrived, after having walked
about twelve miles over the most uneven rocks we had
yet seen. Our view had been limited to a few yards

KURD'S CHANNEL.

from the shore, for the snow-storm was succeeded by
a constant and heavy fall of rain. On the beach and
the rocks, which overhung it, were several remains of
Eskimaux settlements, on many of which the smoke
of fire yet remained. We also saw several storehouses
for containing provisions, built of rough stones, and
about six feet by three in extent. One set of stones
were differently arranged from those we had before
seen, all of which were circular. This was about
twenty-five feet by fifteen, and at either end, the
ground was raised as if for sleeping-places. Other
singular arrangements of stones also attracted our
notice. They were flat single pieces set up at about
three yards apart, and extending about a quarter of
a mile, down a gentle slope, which led to a small lake
in a grassy valley.

Launching the boat, we pulled for the Bear Isles
to obtain a good view of the ice rushing through the
opening, and to seize the first opportunity to make
for the ships. While waiting, some walruses rose to
gaze at the boat, and remained a short time near us.
Our observations on the tides, while at these islands,
with those during the night, were all extremely inte-
resting, as tending to prove that the flood here came
from the northward. At noon, when it was high
water, the ice became tranquil for a short space of
time, and we found our way out to seaward. On
landing at a small isle to dine, we saw one ship at
about 10 miles to the westward, and hoisting a
blanket as a sail, we made for her. The weather.

NARROW ESCAPE OF THE FURY.

now we were quite soaked, began to clear up, and

we most fortunately arrived on board the Fury at

nightfall, then seeing the Hecla in the distance.

The ice in the Frozen Strait being in very rapid

motion, we could not get alongside the ship ; but,

after making what way we could amongst the loose

pieces, we reached a floe, to which the Fury had made

fast, just as the thick fog came on. The Fuiy's men

hauled our boat over the floe, for about half a mile :

The Hecla could not join, being prevented by the

ice. Our journey had been unsatisfactory in the

extreme, owing to the constant bad weather, yet it

gave us hopes that some kind of passage existed near

the small inlet we had found. The first favourable

change was to decide.

During the night the ice carried the Fury close
in with an island, which, from its shape, had acquired
the name of Saddle Back ; and while we all remioined
in a state of anxiety, swept her between it and a
smaller island, where, fortunately, the soundings
were good ; for had they been otherwise, and had the
ship taken the ground, the ice would have gone over
her, and nothing could have saved her. After this
immediate danger, the ship was carried into open-
water.

The Hecla having joined on the morning of the
26th, I went on board, and afterwards again set out
for the shore, to look for a sheltered anchorage,
which having found, I came on board. During the

ANCHOR IN DUCKETT COVK.

time we were sounding, great numbers of that beau-
tiful bird, the Cireenland swallow (sterna hirundo),
continued hovering near our boat. Heavy ice and
irregular tides kept us in the centre of the Frozen
Strait all this day.

On the 27th, Captain Parry went to examine
my anchorage, but, during tlie night, it had been
quite choked up with heavy ice : he soon found an-
other, a snug place, wliich he permitted my naming
Duekett Cove. Into this we stood, and anchored the
ships in security. Captain Parry now determined
on examining the inlet by the boats, he taking one
route, and I another. Mr. Bushnan accompanied
me to examine our little channel, and Captain Parry
stood to the S.E. Our inlet, which had given rise
to many sanguine hopes, proved only to be the di-
viding channel between an island and the main, and
about six miles in length by one mile in breadth.
As we proceeded up this to the northward, we found
a long rolling ground-swell setting against us, and
breaking occasionally, at the same time frequently
causing the boat to pitch bows under. This was ex-
traordinary, as being the first sea of the kind we had
yet met with since leaving the Atlantic, and there-
fore excited considerable hope that we should find
some outlet to the northward. Being quite unable
to round the point, we landed within it ; and from the
unaccommodating form of the rocks, were obliged to
carry the boat on our backs for above three hundred
yards, before we could place her in safety. A heavy

GORE BAY— CJEORGINA ISLAND.

t; ;■

surf broke on the shingle beach, to the north of the
Cape (which I named after a vahicd friend, Montagu),
and the weather being clear we saw the land all around
us, forming an immense bay. The requisite bearings
were taken for the construction of our chart, and we
returned and pitched the tent on a smooth gravelly
place, which had once been the flooring of an Eski-
maux dwelling.

The forenoon of the 28th was devoted to taking
angles, obtaining sights, &c. ; and having, in the
course of these duties, ascended a steep mountain,
we saw the formation of the northern land more
clearly than before, and that it encircled a noble bay,
in which lay a few small islands. This place I had
the pleasure of naming Gore Bay ; and the island
beyond our first little channel was honoured with
that of Georgina's Isle.

. A large opening presented itself to the eastern sea,
at some miles distance, and an island half-way to it
was remarkable for its formation. A point of the
eastern opening bore the name of my friend Farhill,
and Rouse's Isle was the appellation of the place I
have mentioned above.

Our people, in their rambles, caught a bee (co-
vered with very minute lice), two butterflies, and a
couple of mice. Some deer were seen grazing, but
they were not so accommodating as to allow a near
approach.

Our boat floated soon after noon, and we sailed to
the only point round which it was possible for an

HKU SNOW.

opening to exist ; l)ut finding the land continuous,
we next rounded CJeorgina's Isle, and in the even-
ing, at slack water, we made for the ships, where we
arrived before midnight. Captain Parry had not yet
returned. Our sportsmen, during my absence, had
killed a fine deer, several grouse, and a perfectly
white hare.

On the 29th Captain Parry returned, but again
left the ships with six boats to sound the straits. In
the mean time parties went to walk on shore. Two
of the officers were nuich astonished, when crossing
a ravine, by seeing a large white bear walk leisurely
down it : he did not observe them, but slowly took
the water, where having played lazily for some time,
he swam for some ice in the centre of the channel.

Red snow was brought off to the Pury, and I also
found some near the ships : its colour was considered
as much fainter than that seen on a former voyage,
and the appearance of the mass was not unlike what
is called raspberry ice, in a far better climate, where
cold is made subservient to luxury. It may be need-
less to say that the colouring matter of red snow was
proved, prior to our leaving Englaiid, to consist
of a species of fungus, capable of re-production by
artificial cold, and I believe it was even found prac-
ticable, by placing it in a particular light, to give it
a greenish tinge.

Of all the reasons given for this remarkable ap-
])earance, that by a Peter Paterson, who, in lfi71»

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GAME I,AWS F.STABTJSTTKI).

I i"

visited Spitzberj^lieu, is the most anuisin£r : '* The
stones of the rocks are full of white, red, and yellow
veins, like marble ; upon any alteration of the weather,
these stones sweat, which, together with the rains,
tinges the snow red."

When Captain Parry returned at night, Mr. Grif-
fiths brought on board a large doe, which he had
killed while swimming (amongst large masses of ice)
from isle to isle ; two others, and a fawn, were pro-
cured on shore by the Fury*s people. We now were
under the game laws, as they existed at Melville
Island ; by which it was enacted that, for the pur-
pose of economizing our ships' provisions, all deer
or musk-oxen killed should be served out, in lieu of
the usual allowance of meat : hares, ducks, and other
birds, were not at this time to be included. As an
encouragement to sportsmen, the heads, legs, and
offal of the larger animals were to be the perquisites
of those who procured the carcasses for the general
good. In the animals of this day we were convinced
that our sportsmen had not forgotten the latitude to
which their perquisites might legally extend, for the
necks were made so long as to encroach considerably
on the vertebrae of the back ; a manner of amputating
the heads which had been learnt during the fomier
voyage, and, no doubt, would be strictly acted up to
in the present one.

The morning of the 30th proving too calm to al-
low of our going through the strait, shooting parties

I.KAVK DUCKKTT COVK

went on sliore. We saw several deer, and C'aptain
Parity's grey-hound had some long chases after them,
but they were far too fleet for hhn.

The day was so warm that the party, with whom
I was, were glad to pull off their coats and waistcoats,
which is, perhaps, the only instance of too much sun-
shine I shall have to record. The valleys were fertile
in grasses and moss ; and the fineness of the weather
had drawn forth a number of butterflies, spiders, and
other insects, which would, by their gay colours and
active uiotions, have almost deceived us into an idea
that we weie not in the Arctic regions, had not the
Frozen Strait, filled with huge masses of moving ice,
reminded us but too forcibly, that we were in the
most dangerous part of them. In our walk we found
a large mass of black mica, from which we obtained
specimens of eight or ten inches in length, and Ave
or six in thickness.

In the afternoon, every one having returned on
board, we warped out of the cove and stood into the
channel. When abreast of Bear Island, I sent our
small boat to bring ofF some flags which had been
placed as leading marks on a small island near it :
she had scarcely left us when the wind came very
fresh, and she was hid from our view by the moving
ice. As we were in the centre of a most rapid tide,
we dared not heave to for some time ; and when at
length we did so, our three boats which were tow-
ing astern were torn from us by the ice. Our little
boat now appeared in a hopeless state, as she had to

(58

DANGEROUS CHANNEL.

contend with heavy wind and wihl ice, whicli, with
an impetuous tide, ran against the rocks with loud
crashes, at the rate of four or five knots in tlie centre
stream. I wouhl, jit this moment, gladly have given
an arm to see her come on board. With great
difficulty, we picked up the others, each having
a man in her. At dusk the tide slackened, and
I vshall never forget my sensations at seeing our
small boat struggling successfully Jigainst it ; she
reached us at length, with her two men much fatigued.
Standing again to the eastward, the tide soon made
and the ice followed us rapidly. The Fury having
had no impediments had ran out of sight, but we had
been unable either to look for anchorage or to pass
the greatest set of tide. The land was bold and steep
too, yet to keep under sail during a dark night in
such a place was impossible. After some anxious
hours we found a small nook in which we could set
bottom and there we anchored. As it blew hard
off the shore, the ice did not touch us, but passed at
no great distance with a crashing noise during the
whole night. Weighing at daylight on the 3Jst, we
found the Fury anchored in a bay, and soon after
both ships stood to the eastward, (iore Bay was
packed with ice, and Georgina Isle closely beset in
every direction. With the wind and tides consider-
ably in our favour, we made our way through a large
quantity of ice, and at 6 p. u. found ourselves in the
S.E. opening. To the northward were three other
openings but these closely fdled with ice. This

IN lOXS C11ANNKI-.

enemy soon again paid us a visit, and the pressure
carried us near the shore, whence, with tlie assist-
ance of the Fury's boats, we again were cleared by
niglit-fall. A prevalence of" fog, northerly wind,
and heavy ice in floes of some miles in circumfer-
ence, had carried us, in spite of constant labour and
exertions, which it would not here be interesting to
enumerate, to the very spot on which we were on
the 1st of August ! and :;hree days were sufficient for
the purpose. Thus on the. 3rd of September we found
that, after having with infinite anxiety tmd trouble
traced the coast to the northward for upwards of a
month, we were now again on the spot from whence
we had commenced our operations. It is worthy of
remark that, luiving been For a considerable time
without meeting with any old ice, we should, on en-
tering the large opening between America and ** Fox
his farthest," find the sea filled with a constant supply
of unusually ponderous floes, covered with sand,
mud, stones, &c., and from their form and nature,
certainly not of a recent or bay formation, but in all
respects warranting the supposition that they pro-
ceeded from some large and open sea. While lying
helpless among the ice, we were one morning gra-
tified by the sight of a white whale, attended by its
young one, which lay a short distance under water
near the ship : the mother, as usual, was of a cream
colour, but the cub was of a slatey hue ; and we ob-
served that, wherever its dam moved, it invariably
kept the same position, which was immediately over

KNTKH LYON INLKT.

her back, and at about a foot from her. The Aurora
had been very briUiant for some nights, and we now
found it appear constantly in clear weather.

It was not until the 5th that we could get forward,
and then, by one of the usual changes in the navi-
gation of these seas, we ran at the rate of six knots
for some hours, unimpeded, to the north-eastward.
Having made a large inlet or opening in the land,
we anchored for the night at its mouth, and weighing
at daylight on the Gth ran up it for about twenty-five
miles, its breadth being about eight. Some islands
lying in our way, and the wind failing, anchorage
was found, and the ships came to, divided by a small
isle. Our births were so confined that we could not
swing, and therefore moored to the rocks. Captain
Parry now left us, with two boats provisioned for a
week, to examine the head of the inlet. During our
stay at our anchorage, parties were daily sent in
quest of game, but although twenty-one deer were
seen in one herd, none could be obtained. Smaller
animals and ducks were abundantly procured. In
some short excursions which I made amongst the
hills, or more properly mountains, I found many
lakes on their tops, in which the red throated divers
were frequent. In the valleys, as usual, were thick
moss and grasses, but all the eminences were of bare
reddish granite and gneiss. Near the beach, these
rocks ass^umed a greyish tinge, and they were full of
garnets of a brilliant colour, but in such a brittle
state as to break in detaching them. Madrepore,

TRACKS or NATIVllS.

I'ossil shells, aiul other interesting specimens, on a
small scale, were found on the shore near the tide
marks. Some islands near us had a rusty iron ap-
pearance, and their rocks inHuenccd the magnet.
A few masses of plumbago, or what is called black-
lead, were brought off. They resembled the ashes
of a blacksmith's forge in colour and shape, and were
of the size of hazel-nuts. On every point within the
range of our walks, we found recent traces of Es-
kimaux, and at about a mile from the ships was a
place which they could not have quitted above a few
days, and perhaps in consequence of seeing the ships.
A few of the tent circles had small raised sleeping
places, which were covered with branches of some
dwarf shrub we had not yet met with : to me it re-
sembled birch, yet from whence could it have been
brought? and why, if from a distance, was it now
left behind ? On the mountains behind these remains,
and at a good mile from the sea, were circles and
piles of stones, which appeared to have been decoys
for deer, or shelter for the hunters to hide behind.
The whole of the land on this side of the inlet had
a great tendency to form bays and fiords (of which
we found several running three or four miles), and
was therefore admirably adapted for the summer
residence of Eskimaux. The quantity of seals which
we daily saw also promised a plentiful supply of
food, and their extreme boldness would render them
an easy prey. Some of the officers one evening

f <v

SKALS KILLKl).

killed four, of* which two were of the kind called
phoca barbata, or the bearded seal, in conseciuence
of their large thick whiskers, and the others were
the p. vittelina. The former were immense animals,
and very fat, weighing, as wc supposed, eight
or nine cwt. The dimensions of one were as
follows :

LENGTH.

From the nose to insertion of tail

Ditto to fore paw, or flipper .

Of fore flipper

Of hind flipner .

Its breadth when opened out

Of the tail from root to tip .

C IRC UM FERE NCi:.

The belly ....
Behind fore flipper
Before hind flipper
Head, behind the ears .
Of the nose

Fi. In.

. 8

. 1

. ^J

. 7

. 5

. 3

. 2

. 1

The vast quantity of these creatures had doubtless
been attracted to the spot by the abundance of small
shrimps, moluscae, and other marine insects, with
which the sea is almost discoloured in the bays.
The gulls, the eider and other ducks and divers,
also derive a plentiful subsistence from the same
means which Nature has here so abundantly sup-

SUM'S UKI'HKAl HKI'OUK IHK K I,.

plied. Several black and white whales were seen
daily ; and, in many instances, close to the ships.
Once in particular, a larj^e black whale rose and lay
so near our side, that he could have been struck from
the {gangway.

On the 11th we observed that the strait between
our harbours and the islands lyin«r off' was filled by an
extensive Hoe, which occuj)ie(l its whole breadth. From
the hills we perceived that a vast quantity of heavy
ice, under the influence of a southerly wind, was ra-
pidly rtllin«>- the inlet. The accumulation still conti-
nuing, we feared that our protecting floe might break,
and allow the whole weight of ice to come down on
us. On the 1^2th, therefore, I sent the Fury to a
bay about three miles higher up the inlet ; and when
she was secure we followed her through the same
channel. It being dead low water, the bottom was
clearly seen, and, at one time, we passed so close to
a sharp rock, which was only eight feet under water,
that our hand lead fell on it. This danger, from its
shape, had not been detected by th boats, which for
two days had sounded the channel.

Mr. Sherer having returned I'rom Captain Parry,
1 was informed by him that they had seen three men,
who ran along the rocks, following the boat, which,
from the nature of the shore, could not easily effect a
landing. When this was accomplished, Captain Parry
walked up to the natives, who stood perfectly upright
and motionless until he approached. Two carried

TWO I'AMIL.IKS (H NATIVES

bows and iiiiuw.s, the third had a spear. A kind of
salutation, i't>si>nd)lin^ thut which l^ludson received
from tlie natives at Cape Digges, now took place,
winch was by stroking the breasts in a solenni man-
ner. 'I hey then led to a tent composed of skins, and
near it were several deer hides stretched on the ground
to dry Two women, and four children, here made
their appearance, and completed the party to nine.
The tent was unfurnished, and no provision of any
kind was seen within it, which led to a supposition
that it was a mere temporary residence for the accom-
modation of the men, who were deer hunting. The
whole appearance of these people was far more pre-
possessing than that of our first visitors, and the ab-
sence of the smell of train oil led our people to sup-
pose, that at this immediate period, they did not sub-
sist oil seals, but deer only. Their dresses were of
the skins of the latter, clean, and in good order.
There was but one men's eanoe, which lay in readi-
ness for the chase of any deer which might cross the
inlet, a circumstance which Captain Parry had fre-
quently witnessed. One of the women wore a bracelet
of black and white beads, which she must have held in
great esteem, as, on coming to the boat, it was found
she had taken off and hidden it. The roots and
branches of ground willow were brought down to the
beach for firing, on the backs of the women, being
piled above the little children which lay in their hoods.
In this task the men afforded them no assistance.

ARK DlSrOVKUKl).

Captain Parry j^ave the \/oniL'n some presents, hut
nothing afforded so mnch delight as the empty tin
meat canisters, which they hugged and kissed with
the liveliest demonstrations of joy. One of the men
parted readily with his how, arrows, and cjuiver, all
very curiously formed, and which in some future page
I shall descrihe.

Before the interview was concluded, a pewter jug,
and two spoons, were missed from the boat. Mr.
Sherer, whose property they were, would have nuide
instant search for them, but C aptain Parry was at
Hrst unwilling to suppose that people who had been
so kindly treated could make so ill a return. When
at length the examination was made, the articles were
found on a woman, who, instead of being ashamed,
laughed immoderately at her detection. Mr. Sherer
had been bargaining with this lady for her boots,
which were of a most cumbrous size, and one which
she pulled off was readily parted with, but no per-
suasion could induce her to give him the other.
This led to suspicion, and, on examination, the pot
and spoons were both found in it. Of course the
thief and her countrymen were all driven away, and
the boat went on with the survey.

Early on the 13th I went to the S. W. land to look
for anchorage, and afterwards ascended some barren
mountains of granite, on the top of which were, as
usual, several Eskimaux circles of stones. From the
heights I saw an immense body of ice entering the

•)

rUANSAt IIONS Willi. K

straits very raj)i(lly fioiu tlic seaward. An otficer,
who liad rambled in a different direction from myself,
brought down u Hne salmon trout from a lake in the
mountains, and four white hares, which lie had killed
amonfjfst the rocks. IJefore 1 could reach the ships
I ibund they were close beset with heavy ice, and it
was with difficulty we j;ot the boat on board.

On the 1 1th, after four hours warpiii'i; throujijli one
mile of loose ice, we made an offing and ultimately
anchored off' a beach at the head of the inlet. At
8 p. M. Captain Parry returned on board, having failed
in finding any outlet to the place he had been exa-
mining, which was very extensive, full of fiords, and
rapid over falls of the tide. The first three days,
after leaving the ships, were foggy and unpleasant,
the latter five particularly fine. He had procured a
sufficiency of game to afford his people a hot supper
every evening, which, after the constant labour of the
day, was highly acceptable.

Deer were very numerous, but they invariably took
the water on being disturbed, in preference to running
inland, and they swam with great vigour. In one
instance he chased some across an inlet a mile in
breadth, in a boat pulling four oars, and they
escaped.

Wishing to connect more satisfactorily the land
between Gore Bay and our present inlet (which
Captain Parry had done me the honour to name after
me), and to examine carefully the land we had ran so

IN I. YON INLKT.

I 4

rapidly past on the .>tli aiul (itli, Captain Parry a^ain
left us on the eveninjj of the l.'ith, provisioned for
nine (hiys. Mr. lloppnor, who had !)cen away t«)
examine a small inlet, returned at the same time,
brinf];inji; with him the earcasses of three Hne deer,
killed by himself and crew. The wind continiied
fresh from the N. N. W. until the '21st, and, durinjif
this time, nothinpj of any interest occurred. Mr.
floppncr was sent to examine the south-eastern en-
trance of the large inlet.

While we remained at our different anchorages,
our sportsmen had been pretty successful, and, to
explain what I mean by this tenn, I subjoin a list of
animals and birds killed by t^e Hecla's people in a
fortnight : 4 deer, 40 hares, 82 ptarmigan, .00 ducks,
3 divers, 3 foxes, 3 ravens, 4 seals, ermines, mar-
mottes, mice.

My English sporting friends must not laugh at the
number of animals I put in company with real game,
for it is to be understood that in the Arctic regions,
where for only three months in a year the sea is open,
or the land clear of snow, even a mouse is worthy of a
chase, as a specimen ; but the foxes, ravens, &c. were
not always thrown away when skinned ; and, latterly,
they became dainties to many — myself amongst the
number.

The form of the ermine is extremely elegant, the
body being long and slender like that of the weasel ;
the legs short and muscular and its motions ex-

AVXIKTY I'OU THE

I
i

tremely active and graceful, the piercing black and
prominent eyes adding not a little to the pleasing
appearance of the animal. The brown ones when
running have the appearance of little foxes, carrying
their tail horizontally, and taking surprising leaps.
When pursued, the ermine has the power of emitt'ng
a very strong musky smell, which I once had an op-
portunity of observing in a chase that a boat's crew
and myself had after a white one, over some steep
rocks, where its colour alone enabled us to continue
the pursuit.

On the 21st, finding the inlet nearly clear of ice,
we weighed and stood down it, but baffling winds
and calms allowed us to make very small progress;
and we esteemed ourselves highly fortunate at night-
fall in finding the ships off a place where we could
obtain soundings ; here we anchored, unprotected
from all winds but the north, and at the foot of a
steep rock. We lay here until the 24th in anxious
expectation of the return of Captain Parry ; when,
his proper time having expired, I determined at all
events to run down the coast, well aware of the diffi-
culties the ships must encounter ; for the side of the
inlet on which we were was bounded by high rocky
hills and steep cliffs, near which it was impossible to
anchor ; while on the opposite shore the soundings
were generally regular, and anchorage might be found
all along it ; but there we should have been effectually
removed from the track the boats were to pursue on

RFTURN OF CAPTAIN PARRY.

their return. In tlie afternoon the wind came round
and blew hard up the strait. From the mast head
the sea was observed to be covered with heavy ice,
but happily open towards where we expected the
boats. In the evening we tried in vain for anchorage,
and I found we must continue under sail in this place
during a long dark night, half a gale blowings and the
ice setting in from seaward. Under all these circum-
stances it may be conceived how anxiously the boats
were looked for : as for the ships, they were in no
danger. At 8 p. m. the Fury burnt a blue light,
which was answered instantly by a distant flash from
a musket in the boats, who had before made the signal
unperceived by us, while in the act of wearing. At
10, to my great satisfaction, Captain Parry and his
people came back safe and well. I now learned, tliat
on the second evening they were frozen up in a place
where we had tried for anchorage this afternoon.
Here he was detained two anxious days, and, at
length getting clear, he ran down to, and sailed round.
Gore Bay, at that time perfectly clear of ice, but by
the next morning it was quite filled with heavy pieces,
which much impeded his return. During the first
night, the cries of Eskimaux calling to each other
were heard on Georgina's Isle, and the boats instantly
crossed ; but it being dark, all search proved ineffectual.
Having satisfactorily connected the land of Lyon Inlet
with the Bay, Captain Parry again returned, but was
once more frozen up in a small bay, where he was

ANKC'DOTE OF A DOK.

ii <

detained three days; when, finding there was no
chance of getting out, in consequence of the very
rapid formation of young ice, he determined on car-
rying the boats over a low point of land, one mile and
a half in width. This arduous task was accomplished
after nine or ten hours severe exertion, and they
then reached the ship.

Much game had been fortunately procured by the
boats* crews, and consisted of two fine deer, about
twenty hares, and a dozen grouse. From Captain
Parry I learned an interesting anecdote of a doe and
her fawn, which he had pursued across a small inlet.
The mother, finding her young one could not swim
so fast as herself, was observed to stop repeatedly, so
as to allow the fawn to come up with her, and, having
landed first, stood watching it with trembling anxiety
as the boat chilsed it to the shore. She was repeatedly
fired at, but remained immoveable until her offspring
landed in safety, when they both cantered out of
sight.

During the •25th we ran to the entrance of the
strait, when finding the sea filled with large floes, we
again ran a short distance up it. Some hours were
occupied during very inclement weather in seeking
an anchorage ; one at length being found, we came
to in the evening. Our anchorage becoming unsafe,
in consequence of the approach of ice, we left it on
the 26th, and ran to the opposite shore ; the short-
ness of the daylight rendering it necessary to seek

SAFETY COVK.

for shelter many hours before the approach of night.
In the evening, while off a shelving beach, the Fury
grounded on a shoal ; we immediately anchored as
near as was consistent with our safety, and she hove
off by us and making sail took a new birth. A
boisterous night brought a quantity of ice down upon
us, but we received no damage; and at daylight on
the 27th the Hecla was found so close to the grounded
ice on the shoal as to render it necessary to run into
the strait again. With four boats Captain Parry and
myself sounded for some hours, and at length suc-
ceeded in finding a snug cove, into which we gladly
ran the ships. In this place, which from its se-
curity obtained the name pf Safety Cove, we re-
mained a week, during which we had so severe a
northerly gale as to oblige us to strike the lower
yards and topmasts ; and it continued unabated
with heavy rain for four days. In the meantime
officers were sent on shore twice each day to walk to
the hills and observe the state of the ice ; all their
reports, however, were unfavourable to our leaving
the inlet.

We were surprised at finding three grouse, as we
imagined they had all left the country. I killed them,
and observed that they had now completely assumed
their snowy plumage. The tracks of marmottes,
mice, and ermines were very numerous ; and I ob-
tained one of the latter, after having been much
amused by seeing it hunt over some mice tracks in
exactly the same manner as a hound after a fox.

ATTEMPT TO LEAVE

When this little creature was killed, 1 actually trod
on him in seeking his body amongst the snow, for he
was so thoroughly white that I could not see him,
his black tail being covered. I now observed a
curious kind of burrow made by these animals be-
neath the snow, which was pushed up in the same
manner as the tracks of moles through the earth in
England. These passages ran in a serpentine direc-
tion, and near the hole or dwelling-place the circles
were multiplied, as if to render the approach more
intricate.

Several deer were at various times seen on shore,
and in one instance they were twenty-six in a herd.
Two large whales remained constantly near the ships
in the cove, and one was an object of particular in-
terest, as on its left side near the tail was a large
wound or indent, which our Greenland fishermen
conceived had been caused by a harpoon. Had the
weather permitted we should have endeavoured to
strike this fish.

On the 4th a more favourable report was made of
the appearance of the ice from the hills, and we in
consequence weighed and stood into the strait.
While canting the ship in her narrow anchorage we
saw a large bear on the beach close to us, lying with
his head between his paws watching our motions. As
we were then too much occupied to endeavour to kill
him, I made signs to the Fury, but they did not un-
derstand me until too late to go after him. As we
quitted the cove the animal rose and leisurely mounted

LYON INI.KT.

8J5

a small eminence, from whence he anxiously watched
us for some time and then walked oif along the beach,
on which it had been almost our daily practice to go
singly and unarmed to search for specimens.

At the entrance of the inlet we found the ice still
packed, and, after the usual search, secured an an-
chorage for the night. At 1 a.m. on the 5th a
heavy body of ice came driving fast from the NW.
It was partially stopped for an hour by a shoal near
us, but at length bursting over this, we were so com-
pletely beset as to be in very unpleasant circumstances
until daylight, when, by one of those almost magical
changes we had so often observed, it suddenly left us,
and in two hours not a piece was to be seen. The
mouth of the inlet, however, was still close packed,
and young ice formed strongly within our anchorage.
While on shore at noon with Captain Parry, a curious
hawk hovered over us for some moments, and at
length pouncing very near a dog which was with us,
we observed that the bird was perfectly white, with
the exception of the tips of its wings which were jet
black. As we had just crossed a recent bear track,
my gun was loaded with ball, so that I could not
procure the hawk, which I had little doubt v/ould
prove a new bird to us. During our walk we were
much struck by a beautiful appearance which every
where presented itself; every stone with sharj) or
irregular edges had them deeply encrusted with most
brilliant crystals of transparent ice, exhibiting all the
prismatic colours in the glare of the sun. To their

G ^

, »

THE WINTKR BEGINS TO SKT IN.

vivid hues a strong cantrast was opposed by the dead
opake white of the surrounding snow. In such of the
valleys as exhibited any signs of vegetation, we ob-
served that every withered flower or stalk of grass
which rose above the rest was encased in an icicle,
resembling in fonn that part of a child's coral which
is put into the mouth, although of a far larger size.
Many of the small stems, which formed the nucleus
of these icicles, did not exceed a small packthread in
thickness; and I observed that each was situated on the
northern side of its attendant crystal. The clearness
of the day, and the glistening of the surrounding
scenery, had on the whole a most novel and fairy-like
appearance.

With a fresh breeze from NNW. we weighed
on the morning of the 6th, and ran down the strait ;
but towards noon the wind ceased in a great measure,
and we came amongst young ice, in that state called
sludge, which resembles in appearance and con-
sistency a far better thing — lemon-ice. From this
we came to small round plates, of about a foot in
diameter, which have the appearance of the scales of
gigantic fishes. In this form it has the name of
pancake ice, and next assumes that of bay ice. I
have been thus particular, because on this day we
passed through each of the above stages in the suc-
cession in which I have named them. As our impe-
diments increased, I accompanied Captain Parry in
the aflemoon to sound a small open bay in a little
cape of land, forming the SE. extremity of the

SHIPS smiTKl) HY ICE.

inlet, and round which, had the ice permitted, we
should have endeavoured to reach a distant point,
about twenty miles to the north-eastward.

In this bay we found the young floe rapidly form-
ing. Having, as well as circumstances would permit,
ascertained the safety of the anchorage, we brought
the ships in after noon. The water was here so
transparent as to allow of our seeing the bottom in
nine fathoms.

The ice continuing to form solidly round the ships,
an officer was occasionally sent to the shore to see
if the offing was clear enough to permit our getting
forward if we should cut out ; but the reports were
unfavourable.

in
le

c
r

CHAPTER III.

Ships take tlieir winter quarters — Theatricals— The school-
Observatory built — Foxes — Shortest day — Cliristinas — -The
Aurora — New year — Arctic fox— Wine frozen — Arrival of the
EskimauXj and a pack of wolves — Snow houses — Interior
arrangement — Tattooing — Honesty of the natives — Frost bites
— Luxuries — Manner of sewing — Boldness of the wolves —
Music — Arnalooa.

On the forenoon of the 8th I accompanied Cap-
tain Parry on shore, to examine from the hills the
distant sea ice. Every thing indicated the settled
commencement of the winter, and it was decided to
remain in our present position with the ships. We
found the land covered with snow, on which we fre-
quently crossed the recent tracks of bears ; and in
one place found the lair, or hole in the snow, where
one of these animals had slept the preceding night.

On our return we walked off* to the ships, not
however without being pretty frequently reminded
of our situation, for the ice bent, like leather beneath
our weight ; a quality which I believe is only pos-
sessed by salt water ice, and that when recently
formed.

In the evening both ships* companies were em-
ployed in cutting a canal, by which we might enter
farther into the bay, and having advanced about half

'. M

TAKE OUR WINTER QUARTERS

a mile, the ships took up their winter quarters.
During the operation of sawing, several men at va-
rious times fell through the ice, but being speedily
drawn out and fresh clothed, no unpleasant conse-
(juences were brought on by these cold baths.

During the first week our time was fully occupied
in clearing and preparing the ships for the winter.
What we did professionally will not interest my little
family circle, I therefore pass it over. Suffice it to
say that every arrangement which could contribute
to our general comfort and health was made by Cap-
tain Parry.

The warming apparatus by Mr. Sylvester answered
admirably, and promised us a more pleasant tempera-
ture than could by any means be procured in the
former voyage. The crews and officers of each ship
were put on rather a reduced allowance of provisions,
which, however, was still cimply sufficient, now that
no severe labour was going on.

The carpenters v;ere set to work in erecting a small
house for an observatory on a beach about two cables*
length a-head.

A liberal subscription having been made amongst
the officers prior to leaving England, by which a
stock of theatrical clothes, &c. was purchased, it was
now proposed by Captain Parry that, as our active
operations had ceased for a time, we should make
arrangements for performing plays once a fortnight
tliroughout the winter, as a means of amusing the
seamen, and in some degree to break the tedious

riiKA'niit Ai.s.

sj)

monotony of our conlineuieut. As tliore could br
no desire or hope of excellinj^, every officer's njune
was readily entered on the list of dramatis persona*.
Those ladies who had cherished tiie j^rowth of their
beards and whiskers, as a defence against the incle-
mency of the climate, now jrenerously a«»reed to do
away with such unfeminine ornaments, and every
thing bade fair for a most stylish theatre.

The weather had of late been clear and Hne, and
during the last week a party from each ship had been
employed on shore, in boiling and extracting oil from
the blubber we had obtained during the summer, as
a winter's store for our lamps. The smell of the
burnt fat attracted numerous tbxes to our neighbour-
hood, and on the 19th I was so fortunate as to catch
one in a trap. He was small, and not perfectly
white, but his tameness was so remarkable, that I could
not resolve to kill him, but confined him on deck in a
small hutch with a scope of chain. The little animal
astonished us very much by his extraordinary saga-
city, for, during the first day, finding himself much
tormented by being drawn out repeatedly by his
chain, he at length, whenever he retreated to his hut,
took this carefully up in his mouth and drew it so
completely after him, that no one who valued his
fingers would endeavour to take hold of the end at-
tached to the staple.

During the night of the 25th the foxes were ob-
served in great numbers on the beach, and in foui^
hours fifteen were caught in my trap alone. 1 was
surprised on getting up in the morning to see this

» ',

SIIRIMI'S.

'* ►'

iiiiinciise lieap piled on tiie deck of my cubiii. It
was remarkable, that all whicii had as yet been caught
or shot were males and very fat ; their Hesh, indeed,
had so good an appearance, that many trials were
made of it. All were horrified at the idea of eating
foxes, but very many soon got the better of their
delicacy and found them good eating. Not being
myself very nice, I soon made the experiment, and
found the flesh much resembling that of kid, and after-
wards frequently had a supper of it.

About this time two remarkable varieties of these
animals were caught by an officer of the Fury ; their
colour was a deep cliocolate, and in some places the
tips of their coat were grizzled.

We had for some time observed that, in the fire-
hole, which was kept open in the ice alongside, a
countless multitude of small shrimps were constantly
rising near the surface, and we soon found that in
twenty-four hours they would clean, in the most
beautiful manner, the skeletons of the foxes, round
which, as long as any flesh remained, they would
cluster like a swarm of bees, not even letting go
their hold when the carcass was lifted out of the
water : they never devoured the sinews, so that all
the limbs remained attached at their respective joints,
and it was only requisite to dry them to form as com-
plete a skeleton as an anatomist would wish to see.
The shrimps would not eat skin of any kind, for I
placed the flipper of a seal amongst them, and in a
few hours it was quite cleaned within-side, the bones
being left as in a bag. I tried some experiments on

rii soHoor.

these little ^i^luttoiis l)y t'reeziiij^ them in ditiereiit
tciin|H;ratuies, and eiulenvouriiig to bring them to

life again, but did not

fact, my cruelty

succeed ;
«lid not deserve that I should.

Northerly winds h»d now become very prevalent,
and I observed, on poles which had been placed as
direction posts, that a thin coating of transparent ice
was formed on the side opposed to that quarter, while
to the southward the wood remained dry and clean.
Scarcely a night passed without the appearance of
the Aurora Borealis, which, although not so nuigni-
ficent as might be expected a few months later, was
extremely beautiful.

Much to the credit of our seamen, a proposal was
on this day made in each ship, for permission to
open an evening school. We most gladly entered
into their views, and gave orders for the necessary
arrangements : we had abundance of stationery for the
writing scholars, and there were several elementary
school-books in the ships for learners to read,
while bibles were in each mess for those who had
made some progress. Almost every man could read
and write a little, but several found that from long
disuse it was requisite to begin again.

On this afternoon, we, for the first time, witnessed
the beautiful phenomena of a pair of mock suns ;
they were situated on each side of a brilliant halo, of
which the sun was the centre, and whose diameter
was 22° : their regular form continued about half an
hour, after which they gradually vanished. Our first
play was performed on the evening of the !)th, and

(Jl^ENINCi THK THEATRE.

appeared to afford much auiuseiiieiit to the men :
our dresses were good, and the theatre tolerably
large ; to which may be added that the ladies were,
with the exception of beards, figure, voice, and fe-
minine action, most bewitching personages. 1 have
given a copy of the play-bill for the evening.

THEATRE ROYAL,

WINTER ISLE.

The Public are most respectfully injormed that this little, yet ele-
gant, theatre will open for the season, on Friday ne.rt, the 9th
of November, 1821, when will be performed Sheridan's cele-
brated Comedy oj'

THE RIVALS.

Sir Anthony Absolute C.iptaiu Parry.

Captain Absolute .... Captain Lyon.

8ir Lucius O'Trigger Mr. Crozier.

Faulkland Mr. Edwards.

Acres Mr. Henderson.

Fag .... Mr. Hoppner.

David Mr. Heid.

Coachman . . . Mr. Bushnan.

Mrs, Malaprop . Mr. Richards.

.Tulia Mr. Hooper.

, . ' Lydia Languish .... Mr. Slierer.
Lucy .... Mr. Mogg.

Songs by Messrs. Palmer and Henderson will be introduced in
the course of the evening.

Doors to be opened at half- past 6, Curtain to rise at 7 precisely.

OBSKRVATORY KRKCTEI).

The weather having been for some time very un-
settled, and the temperature high, we feared some
chance gale would send us and our harbour ice out
to sea. On this day it cracked in many places, and
as a precaution, we got anchors and cables on the
beach. While digging holes in which to place our
anchors, I observed, that at about two feet below the
surface, which was soft and unfrozen, we came to
hard ice-bound gravel, on which it was impossible
to make any impression without the aid of pick-
axes. As this spot was far above the rise of tides, it
may be inferred that the summer's suns of ages have
not had the power of thawing to a greater depth
than I have mentioned. A large bird (probably a
crane) was seen by one ofHhe officers at a great
distance on shore, and its track, with that of abund-
ance of foxes, as if they had been chasing it, was ob-
served on many places in the snow. The observatory
was on this day completed.

The morning of the 14th was rendered particu-
larly interesting, by uncommonly beautiful appear-
ances which attended the rising of the sun. Pre-
vious to its becoming visible, a spiral ray of a most
delicate pink hue, shot from the horizon, and in-
creasing in size and brilliancy, at length reached the
zenith, at which time its form was like that of the
flame produced by a blow-pipe. On the appearance
of the sun, the whole eastern sky partook of the
blush colour of the first ray ; and the snow, the
ships, and the whole of the desolate surrounding

"ii

FROST SMOKK

scenery, were warmly illuminated until the entire of
the sun's disk had risen above the horizon, then the
usual grey tints assumed their accustomed place, the
scene became doubly desolate, and a fall of snow
completed the contrast with the delightful vision
which was past.

The unsettled, comparatively mild, and cloudy
weather now ceased, and a decided and severe frost,
with a clear sky, gave us reason to expect the winter
in good earnest. The sea to the eastward continued
open at times, owing to the rapidity of the tides, and
dovekies constantly frequented the holes of water.
These, and two ravens, furnished conversation and
gun-carrying to all our sportsmen. I shall have oc-
casion to mention, at times, an appearance which is
called frost smoke : this is only seen when some
space of water, by the sudden breaking or constant
motion of the ice, is left exposed and unfrozen ; a
vapour then rises in clouds, which floats immediately
over the open space, like the steam from a caldron.
This freezes instantly, and being driven by the
wind, deposes itself in a fine powder on the sur-
rounding ice.

When any great extent of water is seen, the frost
smoke of course is very much increased, and entij*ely
hides the horizon from the view ; seldom, however,
rising above 2° in altitude, and presenting, by its
dusky gray clouds, a fine foil to the matchless blue
of the sky in frosty weather.

On the 27th we exhibited the two farces of

FOXES.

" Raising the Wind'* and the " Mock Doctor,'* witli
Phantasmagoria, the temperature at 20° below zero in
the open air.

The cold was more severely felt on the 28th than
any other time since entering winter quarters, from
the extreme shai*pness of the wind : several of our
people were frost-bitten, and a poor fox on deck was
found to be severely benumbed. This animal was
considered as untameable, and would not even agree
with two others of his own kind, which were also
prisoners ; but in his distress, on being taken below,
his nature appeared to change, and he became as
tame as a dog, walking to the different messes, and
quietly taking food from the hand : the sudden
change of temperature, however, proved too much
for him and before morning he died.

On the 1st of December a grouse was seen astern
of the ships, walking on the snow, on which, being
of the purest white, his motion alone made him
visible. One of our people, walking to the eastward
to try and shoot dovekies, observed several of these
birds near him, in the tide-way ; they appeared quite
fearless, and allowed him to approach very near,
when suddenly, a fox was observed stealing towards
them, and the whole flock rose with loud cries of
alarm. From its having been ascertained that the
foxes catch these birds (parts of their feathers, and
in one instance a whole wing, being found in the
stomachs of several), it becomes an interesting ques-
tion how they can get to them. The temperature

li-ii
t

HARK KII.LKD.

I ''

would prevent a fox from swimming, and it is a
known fact, that dovekies are very rarely, even in
mild weather, seen out of the water.

A whale was seen to the S. E., and seals fre-
quently rose in the open water. Our walking parties
frequently found traces of a hare, which on the 13th
was killed : the animal was miserably poor, weighing
only 5 lb. 15 oz., and having nothing in its stomach.
Excepting the usual black tips to the ears, it was
quite white, and its fur resembled swans-down rather
than hair. It was a matter of wonder to us how
this creature could have escaped the large packs of
foxes which were constantly hunting during the
night, and whose tracks absolutely covered the place
where it was shot. Above sixty foxes had now been
taken, and yet there seemed but little diminution in
their numbers.

On the 17th a shivering set of actors performed
to a great-coated, yet very cold, audience, the co-
medy of the " Poor Gentleman."

We were much amused during the exhibition of
this play by a burst of true English feeling. In the
scene where Lieut. Worthington and Corp'. Foss re-
count in so animated a manner their former achieve-
ments, advancing at the same time, and huzzaing for
" Old England ;" the whole audience, with one ac-
cord, rose, and gave three of the heartiest cheers I
ever heard. They then sat down, and the play con-
tinued uninterrupted.

\* '■■

SHORTKST DAY.

A bear was seen on the afternoon of the 20th,
at about a mile from the ships, to which he was
cautiously walking, smelling as he advanced. The
warning-signal was hoisted to parties on shore, and
I accompanied several others in chase of him ; but
after a most fatiguing run to no purpose, he cantered
off with the speed of a horse, and making for the
moving ice in the inlet, was soon lost sight of in the
frost smoke. By his foot-marks, we judged that he
could not have been very large, the hind paw mea-
suring 14 inches by 7, and the fore one 7i inches
each way. The shape of a bear-track is curious, as
resembling that of a man, were it not for the too
plainly marked toe-nails, which make deep dents in
the snow.

December 22nd, our shortest day, was extremely
fine, and the sun rose to 37' above the horizon,
giving us three hours daylight, at least sufficiently
clear to allow of our taking a long walk. How great
the difference between this place and Melville Island,
where, for ninety days, the sun was not seen ! Com-
fortless as an arctic winter certainly is, yet it has de-
grees of wretchedness, amongst which the absence of
light is the most severely felt. This winter, how-
ever, we were blessed by the daily appearance of the
sun, although it was powerless as to warmth.

On Christmas eve, in order to keep the people
quiet and sober, we performed two farces, and ex-
hibited phantasmagoria, so that the night passed
merrily away.

CHRISTMAS.

|:i^ • .1

Christmas day was very fine, and we all attended
church on board the Fury, as we had been accustomed
to do every Sunday since we were frozen in. The
people then returned to their dinners, at which En-
glish roast beef, that had been kept untainted since
the transport left us, was the principal luxury. To
this were added cranberry pies and puddings of eveiy
shape and size, with full allowance of spirits. I never
indeed saw more general good humour and merriment
on a Christmas day since I went to sea. A pretty
compliment was paid to all the officers by a well
meaning, but certainly not very sober crew, by abso-
lutely forcing each in his turn, beginning with my-
self, to go out on the lower deck, and have his health
drank with three hearty cheers.

On the 26th, we sent all the people for a run on
the ice, in order to put them to rights, but thick
weather coming on, it became necessary to recall them,
and, postponing the dinner hour, they were all danced
sober by 1 p. m. the fiddler being, fortunately, quite
as he should be. During this curious ball, a witty
fellow attended as an old cake woman, with lumps of
frozen snow in a bucket ; and such was the demand
for his pies on this occasion, that he was obliged to
replenish pretty frequently. At night we were all
much startled by an account of a bear being seen be-
tween the ships, and arms were prepared in conse-
quence, but the return of daylight gave us no traces
of him.

We had now reached the end of our first year,

CIIllISTMAS.

without having experienced any weighty difficulties,
and both officers and men enjoyed excellent health.
A good footing had been established on the coast of
North America, from which we could again proceed
in the summer, and we were blessed with spirits and
zeal for the renewal of our exertions. No signs of
scurvy, the usual plague of such voyages as ours, had
occurred ; and, owing to a plan of Captain Parry's,
we had been in the practice of raising a sufficiency of
mustard and cress between decks to affijrd all hands
a salad once, and sometimes twice, a week. Our
men had taken the greatest pleasure in their school,
which might in some measure be attributed to their
having had the management of it in their own hands.
There was not a man in tl^e ship who could not, by
this time, read and write, and on Christmas day I
received sixteen copies from those who, two months
before, scarcely knew their letters. These little spe-
cimens were all well written, and sent with as much
pride, as if the writers had been good little school-
boys, instead of stout and excellent seamen.

As we now had seen the darkest, although not by
many degrees the coldest season of the year, it may
not here be irrelevant to mention the beautiful ap-
pearance of the sky at this period. To describe the
colours of these cloudless heavens would be impossible ;
but the delicacy and pureness of the various blended
tints excelled any thing I ever saw, even in Italy. The
sun shines with a diminished lustre, so that it is pos-
sible to contemplate it without a painful feeling to the

II 2

100

AURORA.

eyes, yet the blush colour, which in severe frost always
accompanies it, is, in my opinion, far more pleasing
than the glittering borders which are so profusely
seen on the clouds in warmer climates. The nights
are no less lovely, in consequence of the clearness of
the sky. The moon and stars shine with wonderful
lustre, and almost persuade one to be pleased with the
surrounding desolation. The aurora borealis does
not appear affected by the brilliancy even of the full
moon, but its light continues still the same. The
first appearance of this phenomenon is generally in
showers of falling rays, like those thrown from a
rocket, although not so bright. These being in con-
stant and agitated motion, have the appearance of
trickling down the sky. Large masses of light suc-
ceeded next in order, alternating from a faint glow
resembling the milky way, to the most vivid flashes,
which stream and shoot in every direction with the
effect of sheet lightning, except that after the flash,
the aurora still continues to be seen. The sudden
glare and rapid bursts of these wondrous showers of
fire, render it impossible to observe them, without
fancying that they produce a rushing sound; but I
am confident that there is no actual noise attending
the changes, and that the idea is erroneous. I fre-
quently stood for hours together on the ice, to ascer-
tain this fact, at a distance from any noise but my
own breathing, and thus I formed my opinion. Nei-
ther did I observe any variety of colour in the flashes,
which were to my eye always of the same shade as

AURORA.

101

the milky way, and vivid sheet lightning. The
stars which gleam through the aurora certainly emit
a milder ray, as if a curtain of the finest gauze were
interposed. It is remarkable that whenever the
weather is calm, the aurora has a tendency to form
an arch, at whatever position it may occupy in the
heavens. On the 29th of this month we were par-
ticularly gratified by a beautiful exhibition of this
kind at near midnight. A perfect arch was formed
to the southward, stretching from east to west ; its
centre elevated about two degrees above the horizon.
The night was serene and dark, which added con-
siderably to its effect, and the appearance continued
unchanged for about a quarter of an hour; but on a
slight breeze springing upv small rays shot occasion-
ally to the zenith, and the arch became agitated with
a gentle and undulating motion, after which it spread
irregularly, and separating into the usual streamers,
soon diffused itself over the whole sky. In stormy
weather the northern lights fly with the rapidity of
lightning, and with a corresponding wildness to the
gale which is blowing, giving an indescribable air of
magic to the whole scene.

I have never contemplated the aurora without ex-
periencing the most awful sensations, and can readily
excuse the poor untutored Indians for supposing
that in the restless motions of the northern lights,
they behold the spirits of their fathers roaming in
freedom through the land of souls.

102

NKW YKAK.

*>f

A. D. 18-22.

The commencement of a new year has always a
feeling of pleasure attached to it, whatever may
be our pursuits, and although the 1st of January
was not less solitary than other wintry days, yet we
formed little parties of castle-builders, in order to
cut out work for the summer, as if, instead of being
many months distant, it was to arrive on the morrow.

On the 2nd I saw the first whirlwind which had
been observed in this country. It came from the
westward over the flat ice, passed near our stern,
and finally disappeared round Cape Fisher. The
circumference of the column of loose snow which was
drawn into the vortex of the whirlwind was at first
very inconsiderable, but increasing rapidly it assumed
the appearance of a small water spout. It was to
be regretted that it passed astern, instead of over the
ships, as it would then have given us some idea of its
powers.

Foxes, and another solitary hare, which had been
twice fired at while seeking food alongside the Fury,
were the only animated objects which had for some
time occupied our attention. Above one hundred of
the former had been at various times entrapped or
killed, and several were kept as pets in each ship.
Of those in the Hecla I had attentively observed the
habits, and shall offer a few remarks on them, with
the intention of somewhat relieving the stupidity and

AllCTIC FOX.

103

monotony which will be found in uy joun „i, even
by my own partial family.

In form, the arctic fox bears great resemblance i<^
our European species, although considerably smaller,
and owing to the great quantity of white woolly hair
with which it is clothed, is somewhat like a little
shock dog. The brush is full and large, affording
an admirable covering for the nose and feet, to which
it acts as a muff when the animal sleeps. Although
the head is not so pointed as in our English reynard,
yet it has as completely the air of cunning which is
so observable in all species of foxes. The eyes are
bright, piercing, and of a clear light hazel. The face
of the female was always remarked to be shorter than
that of the male, and it has less of cunning and more
of mildness in its general expression. The ears are
shoit, and thickly covered with hair, having the ap-
pearance of being doubled at the edges, or rather of
having been cut in the manner that tender-hearted
people crop their terriers. The cheeks are orna-
mented by a projecting ruff, which extends from be-
hind the ears quite round the lower part of the face,
to which it gives a very pleasing appearance.

The legs are rather long than otherwise, and show
great strength of muscle. The feet, which are large,
are armed with strong claws. When the animal is
standing still, the hind legs are so placed as to give
the idea of weakness in the loins, which is certainly
not the case, as few creatures can make more power-
ful leaps. The general weight was about eight

> ,'

104

AUCTK' FOX.

pounds, altliougli some were as low as seven, and a
few as high as nine pounds and a half when in good
case.

The arctic fox is an extremely cleanly animal, being
very careful not to dirt those places in which he eats
or sleeps. No unpleasant smell is to be perceived,
even in a male, which is a remarkable circumstance.
To come unawares on one of these creatures is, in
my opinion, impossible ; for even when in an ap-
parently sound sleep, they open their eyes at the
slightest noise which is made near them, although
they pay no attention to sounds at a short distance.
The general time of rest is during the daylight, in
which they appear listless and inactive ; but the night
no sooner sets in, than all their faculties are awakened ;
they commence their gambols, and continue in un-
ceasing and rapid motion until the morning. While
hunting for food they are mute, but when in captivity
or irritated, they utter a short growl like that of a
young puppy. It is a singular fact, that their bark is
so modulated as to give an idea that the animal is at a
distance, although at the very moment he lies at your
feet. It strikes me that nature has gifted these
creatures with this kind of ventriloquism in order to
deceive their prey as to the distance they are from
tlioK^ Although the rage of a newly caught fox is
quite ungovernable, yet it very rarely happened that
on two being put together, they quarrelled. A con-
finement of even a few hours often sufficed to quiet
these creatures ; and some instances occurred of

AUCTIC I'OX.

105

their being perfectly tame, although timid, from the
first moment of their captivity. On the other hand
inhere were some, wliich, after months of coaxing,
never became more tractable. These we supposed,
were old ones.

Their first impulse on receiving food is to hide
it as soon as possible, even though suffering from
hunger, and having no fellow-prisoners of whose ho-
nesty they are doubtful. In this case snow is of great
assistance, as being easily piled over their stores, and
then forcibly pressed down by the nose. I frequently
observed my dog-fox, when no snow was obtainable,
gather his chain into his mouth, and in that manner
carefully coil it so as to hide the meat. On moving
away, satisfied with his operations, he of course,
has drawn it after him again, and sometimes with
great patience repeated his labours five or six times,
nntil, in a passion, he has been constrained to eat
his food without its having been rendered luxuriant
by previous concealment. Snow is the substitute for
water to these creatures, and on a large lump being
given to them, they break it in pieces with their
feet, and roll on it with great delight. When the
snow was slightly scattered on the decks, they did
not lick it up as dogs are accustomed to do, but by
repeatedly pressing with their nose, collected a small
lump at its extremity, and then drew it into the
mouth, with the assistance of the tongue.

On the 8th a hare was killed while seeking food on
our dirt heap. It was very thin, and weighed 7ibs.

106

WINE FROZEN.

On dissection it was discovered that the leaves of
the herb-tea which was served out to our people, had
been the cause of its frequent visits alongside.

The coldness of the weather proved no bar to the
performance of a play at the appointed time. If it
amused the seamen, our purposes were answered, but
it was a cruel task for the performers. In our green-
room, which was as much warmed as any other part
of the theatre, the thermometer stood at 16^, and
on a table which was placed over a stove, and about
six inches above it, the coffee froze in the cups. For
my sins I was obliged to be dressed in the height of
the fashion, as Dick Dowlass, in the " Heir at Law,"
and went through the last scene of the play with two
of my fingers frost-bitten ! Let those who have wit-
nessed and admired the performances of a Young,
answer if he could possibly have stood so cold a re-
ception.

About this time we discovered that much of our
wine was frozen, and Captain Parry sent a bottle of
port for my inspection : it was congealed in thin pink
laminae, which lay loosely and occupied the whole
length of the bottle. The ice was almost tasteless;
but, if any thing, of a sweet flavour. White wine,
on the contrary, froze into a solid and perfectly
transparent mass resembling amber.

The tracks of a small animal had been for two or
three days found on the snow piled against the stern,
ard on this morning he jumped from out a heap of
small sails stowed abaft. Those who saw the crea-

KILAIINK CAUGHT ON BOARD.

107

ture had so many different opinions of its size and
colour, that no rational conjectures could be formed
of its nature ; most voices, however, declared it to be
brown. In the night my servant caught it in a small
trap placed on deck ; and on examining our captive,
" lo ! 'twas white," and a very beautiful ermine. I
had soon a convenient cage made for perhaps the
first of these animals, which was ever caught on board
a ship 400 yards from the land. He was a fierce
little fellow, and the instant he obtained daylight in
his new dwelling, he flew at the bars, and shook them
with the greatest fury, uttering a very shrill passionate
cry, and emitting the strong musky smell which I for-
merly noticed. No threats or teazing could induce
him to retire to the sleeping-place, and whenever he
did so of his own accord, the slightest rubbing on the
bars was sufficient to bring him out to the attack of
his tormentors. He soon took food from the hand,
but not until he had first used every exertion to reach
and bite the fingers which conveyed it. This boldness
gave me great hopes of being able to keep my little
captive alive through the winter, but he was killed by
an accident in a few days.

On the 22nd our usual theatricals took place. Tem-
perature in the air 22° below zero, but not much felt,
in consequence of the calmness of the night.

The cold having been gradually increasing, we
expected that the ice to the eastward would soon
be quite stationary ; but on this day, to our surprise.

108

BEAR SEEN.

U'4

|Jv

, 4

« i

it became detached across the mouth of our little
bay, so that we had open water at 350 yards astern
of* the ships.

A whale was seen to the southward, at a great
distance, and seals and dovekies near the shore.

On the morning of the 27th, just before church,
our carpenter came on board from a walk round the
S. E. point, and reported having seen a bear in that
direction, at the distance of 500 yards from him,
and advancing along a young field of ice to the place
on which he stood. The weather being squally, a
most fortunate shower of snow, assisted by the frost
smoke, hid Bruin for a few moments, during which
Mr. Pulfer very wisely made his retreat, fearing that
the next clear moment might show the stranger at a
less agreeable distance. This being the second bear
we had seen since the setting in of the cold, affords
a most interesting proof that these animals do not,
in all cases, remain in a torpid state during the
winter. Indeed such stories of their sleeping, as I
have met with, seem so ill attested, that I doubt the
truth of them, at least as far as respects the Polar
bear, an animal from which naturalists have ever
been too far removed to allow of their giving an
opinion about it. The brown, or North American
bear, may perhaps be different from the white one, as
it varies so much from it in habits. The thermometer
was at this time 35° below zero, yet the animal above-
mentioned was evidently deriving his subsistence

ARRIVAL OF ESKIMAUX.

109

from the sea, in which we observed, almost daily,
some seals to make their appearance. These crea-
tures form the principal food of bears in the summer
season. In the winter, all animals in this country
must suffer great privations. As a proof of what
foxes will eat to satisfy hunger, I may mention
having examined the stomach of one which con-
tained a mass of rope yarns and line, of the size of the
doubled fist ; amongst which some pieces of sinnet or
plaited stuff, were above six inches in length !

ARRIVAL OF THE ESKIMAUX.

re-
ce

An unexpected and most welcome break in the
tedium of our winter's confinement was announced
on the morning of the 1st of February, by a cry of
Eskimaux ! Eskimaux ! from some of our people, who
were takin^; their solitary diurnal walk on deck, and
we saw a large troop of strangers coming over the
ice from the westward, and occasionally heard them
set up a loud shout.

I accompanied Captain Parry to meet them, our
party consisting of six ; we walked behind each other
in order to make our number appear small, lest the
natives should be alarmed ; and soon saw them make
a halt and form into a line, in which position they
stood until we joined them. They were all unai*med,
and silently saluted us by stroaking their breasts.

110

ESKIMAUX.

¥ '*,

J II

II, . 1

which we did not fail to imitate. The party con-
sisted of twenty-one men, two very old women, and
two children ; one man was so aged and weak, as
to be obliged to support himself on a staff, and at
length, from weariness, sat down with an old woman,
his wife, on the ice. We distributed beads and
trinkets to all, but our presents were received with
so vacant a stare, that it was plain the donors excited
more wonder than their gifts. As the strangers had
brought several skins and blades of whalebone, we
bartered for these and their ivory knives, which soon
conquered their fears, and we all became very good
friends. On a jacket being purchased, we found a
piece of European worsted lace within it, and soon
observed that several men wore a small bracelet of
beads, which circumstances excited great interest,
as showing that by some means or other, they must
have been received from our factories. We gladly ac-
cepted an invitation to the huts, and at the desire of
the natives we preceded them in the path, but for what
reason I know not. A walk of two miles brought
us to the huts, situated on a shelving beach, which
commanded a full view of the ships, from whence we
must have easily seen the Eskimaux, had they arrived
prior to the preceding evening.

Some men now ran before us to apprise the in-
mates of our arrival, and we were then led into the
first dwelling, where we found six families silently
awaiting our visit, the women and children sitting
with their legs doubled under them, behind the men.

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ESKIMAUX.

Ill

who sat on the edge of their sleeping-places. A
distribution of ornaments being made to the ladies,
we were soon established on a good footing, and vi-
sited each hut in its turn. Our astonishment was
unbounded, when, after creeping through some long
low passages of snow, to enter the different dwellings,
we found ourselves in a cluster of dome-shaped edi-
fices, entirely constructed of snow, which, from their
recent erection, had not been sullied by the smoke
of the numerous lamps that were burning, but ad-
mitted the light in most delicate hues of verdigris
green and blue, according to the thickness of the
slab through which it passed. The natives were evi-
dently in their best apparel, and made a very neat
appearance ; the darkness of their deer-skin dresses
affording a strong contrast to the brilliancy of their
habitations. To attempt giving a description of all
we saw in one visit would be ridiculous ; suffice it to
say, we were much pleased, and determined on spend-
ing the ensuing day with our new friends, of whom
about fifty persons of both sexes accompanied us on
board, and we were now as familiar as old acquaint-
ances. As we walked I assisted in singing to them
some songs and chorusses, and met with unbounded
applause, in such ditties especially as terminated in
" Tol de riddle loll," which never failed to excite
loud screams of admiration, and a vast deal of jump-
ing. Our harmony at length aroused the ambition
of the ladies, three of whom, whose liveliness belied
their appearance, which was that of age and ugliness,

I'll

112

ESKIMAUX.

v.-

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'■' ■ V!

t v;

commenced an extraordinary and most monotonous
ditty, in which we joined. Dancing was occasionally
introduced as a change of amusement, and in this
manner we arrived most merrily on board.

The strangers walked in a quiet and orderly man-
ner about the upper deck, but could not avoid occa-
sionally giving vent to their admiration, by those
indescribable screams which had already so much
amused us. Order, however, did not long continue,
for the natives met our seamen more than half-way
in frolic ; and in a short time, with the assistance of
a fiddle and drum, every leg was in motion, our
people assisting, in no slight degree, in the general
shouting and yells. Our music attracted the Fury's
proportion of visitors, and we soon had the ship full.
Some old women sang to different groupes which as-
sembled round them, and others danced, or rather
jumped, with so much spirit, as to bathe themselves
in perspiration.

An old man, whose appearance was much in his
favour, accompanied me to my cabin, where he be-
haved with great decorum, and neither asked for
nor expected a present. A small hand-organ af-
forded him a very great treat, and he listened to it
with such an expression of pleasure on his counte-
nance, as would be shown by a lover of music on
hearing the performance of an orchestra ; breathing
gently, making no noise, and unconsciously opening
his mouth. A musical snuff-box succeeded this in-
strument, and underwent a very strict examination j

KSKIMAUX.

ii;;

(luring vvliich, my visitor repeatedly uttered a faint
but highly expressive cry of pleasure. Drawings of
the Eskimaux, in Hudson's Strait, surprised him
much, but he immediately understood them, and
pointed out many parts of their dress which differed
from that of his own tribe.

The sketch of a bear we had killed in the summer
was hailed by a loud outcry, and he instantly un-
covered his arm to show three very extensive wounds
made by one of these animals, which he had killed.
The name of my new acquaintance was " Nak-k?!-
khToo," or " Bladder," but this was soon changed
by our people to that of *' Kettle," in consequence of
my having given him a brass one.

The sailors very soon discovered that the natives
could do "any thing in the world," and amongst other
accomplishments were convinced that they could chew
tobacco ; but when I saw several of them swallowing
very large pieces of it, I thought proper to put a stop
to so cruel a joke *. They all endeavoured to smoke,
but none succeeded in drinking grog except a poor old
woman, who was very thirsty in consequence of having
danced and sung without intermission, for above
two hours. Bread was well received, and a mess of
train-oil and bread-dust was mixed up in a tin-pot for

> I.

* This reminded me of the alarm created by a similar frolic
of Cook's people, at the Sandwich Islands. The snfferer there
fancied himself poisoned. As for the Eskimaux, I could not
learn, on the foUowinjj day, that the tobacco had caused any
unpleasant feelinp,s to their well-oiled stomachs.

114

WOr.VES SKEN.

•Sfl

{ I/-:

one very hungi7 man, who scooped it up with the tip
of his tongue : not being greedy, however, lie called
his wife and daughter, when they, with the same in-
struments, assisted him very readily, each taking a lick
in turn. The grog-drinking old woman was treated
with the half of a frozen and uncleaned fox, which
she greedily attacked, thawing it by repeated licking
and sucking with her tongue. During the stay of
the Eskimaux, persons were stationed to watch that
they stole nothing, but never were such precautions
less necessary, the most perfect and natural honesty
being evident in all their actions. As yet the word
PlUe-tay (give me) had not been heard, and what-
ever presents were made, met with a grateful recep-
tion, and the accustomed licking with the tongue.

Soon after the Eskimaux had appeared in the fore-
noon, a pack of thirteen wolves (the first we had yet
seen) passed astern of the ships, and went round the
S.E. point : at night they came alongside several
times, and were repeatedly fired at, but without
effect. From this being their first visit, it would
appear that they had followed the Eskimaux, and
were, in some measure, dependent on them for sub-
sistence. I had on this day purchased the skin of one,
which appeared as if very recently killed.

At an early hour on the 2nd, I accompanied
Captain Parry and several officers to pass the day at
the huts; on nearing which, we observed all the
male inhabitants to come out and range themselves
in a line to receive us, stroking their breasts, and

s
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s

ii
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\ \

SNOW HOI^SKS.

115

bidding us welcome as at the first interview. Each
then retired to his proper dweUinfij in order to re-
ceive our visits, with the same quiet and respectful
compliments as on tlie precedinj>' day.

We now found that tlie })eautiful transparent
appearance of the interior of the huts had almost
ceased, the purity of the snow being much darkened
by the smoke and breath whicli had congealed on it
during the night ; there still, however, continued to
be so clear a light, that the finest work could be
done by it without straining the eyes. There were
five clusters of huts, some having one, some two, and
others three domes, in which thirteen families lived,
each occupying a dome or one side of it, according
to their strength. The whole number of people
were 21 men, 25 women, and 18 children, making
a total of 64.

The entrance to the dwellings was by a hole about
a yard in diameter, which led through a low-arched
passage of sufficient breadth for two to pass in a
stooping posture, and about 16 feet in length ; an-
other hole then presented itself, and led through a
similarly shaped, but shorter passage, having at its
termination a round opening, about two feet across.
Up this hole we crept one step, and found ourselves
in a dome about seven feet in height, and as many
in diameter, from whence the three dwelling-places,
with arched roofs, were entered. It must be observed
that this is the description of a large hut, the smaller

I 2

110

DKSCnilTION OF TMM

ones containiiip^one ortwo fauiilics, having the domes
somewhat differently arranjjjed.

Each duel I in <T^ might he aveniged at M- or 10 feet
in diameter hy (> or 7 in height, but as snow alone
was used in their construction, and was always at
hand, it might be supposed that there was no particu-
lar size, that being of course at the option of the
builder. The laying of the arch was performed in such
a manner as would have satisfied the niostreffular artist,
the key-piece on the top, being a large scpiare slab.
The blocks of snow used in the buildings were from
four to six inches in thickness, and about a couple
of feet in length, carefully pared with a large knife.
Where two families occupied a dome,'^a seat was
raised on either side, two feet in height. These
raised places were used as beds, and covered in the
first place with whalebone, sprigs of andromedu, or
pieces of seals' skin, over these were spread deer
pelts and deer skin clothes, which had a very warm
appearance. The pelts were used as blankets, and
many of them had ornamental fringes of leather
sewed round their edges.

Each dwelHng-place was illumined by a broad
piece of transparent fresh water ice, oi about two
feet in diameter, which formed part of the roof,
and was placed over the door. These ^^ indows gave
a most pleasing light, free from glare, and something
like that which is thrown through ground glass. We
soon learned that the building of a house was but

SNUW IIOL'SKS.

117

ling

the work of an hour or two, and tliat a couple of
men, one to cut the slabs and the otiier to hiy them,
were hihourers sufficient.

For the support of the hunps and cooking a])pa-
ratus, a mound of snow is erected for each family ;
and when the master has two wives, or ii motlier,
both have an independent phice, one at each end of
tlie !)ench.

I find it impossible to attempt describing every thing
at a second visit, and shall therefore only give an account
of those articles of furnitin*e, which must be always
the same, and with which, in five minutes, any one
might be acquainted. A frame, composed of two or
three broken fishing-spears, supported in the first
place, a large hoop of wood or bone, across whicli an
open meshed and ill-made net was spread or worked,
for the reception of wet or damp clothes, skins, &c.
which could be dried by the heat of the lamp. On
this contrivance, the master of each hut placed his
gloves on entering, first carefully clearing them of
snow.

From the frame above-mentioned, one or more
coffin-shaped stone pots were suspended over lamps of
the same material, crescent shaped, and having a ridge
extending along their back : the bowl part was filled
with blubber ; and the oil and wicks were ranged close
together along the edge. These wicks were made of
moss,andtrimmedbya pieceof asbestos,stone,orwood :
near at hand a large bunch of moss was hanging for a
future supply. The lamps were supported by sticks.

118

INTKllKJH or THK

'fcij

1^1, -r !

r ■' 1

bones, or pieces of horn, at a sufficient lieight to admit
an oval pot of wood or whalebone beneath, in order to
catch any oil that might drop from them. The lamps
varied considerably in size, from two feet to six inches
in length, and the pots were equally irregular, holding
from two or three gallons to half a pint. Although I
have mentioned a kind of scaffolding, these people did
not all possess so grand an establishment, many being
contented to suspend their pot to a piece of bone
stuck in the wall of the hut. One young woman
was quite a caricature in this way ; she was the in-
ferior wife of a young man, whose senior lady was of
a large size, and had a corresponding lamp, &:c. at
one corner, while she herself being short and fat, had
a lamp the size of half a dessert plate, and a pot which
held a pint only.

Almost every family was possessed of a large
wooden tray, resembling those used by butchers in
England ; its offices, however, as we soon perceived,
were more various, some containing raw flesh of seals
and blubber, and others, skins which were steeping in
urine. A quantity of variously sized bowls of whale-
bone, wood, or skin, completed the list of vessels,
and it was evident that they were made to contain
any thing.

The first specimen we had of the indifference of
the Eskimaux, as to what they put into their mouths,
was in consequence of Captain Parry's purchasing a
lamp at the time it was burning. The woman who
sold it instantly extinguished the light, and vigor-

"T^'--X

ESKIMAUX HUTS.

119

ously commenced cleaning the lamp, which con-
tained as much soot as oil, by scraping it with her
fingers, which, with their load of sweets, she con-
veyed rapidly to her mouth. The tongue finished
the operation ; the lamp was licked perfectly clean,
while in return it covered her face with soot, and
caused us all a laugh at her uncouth figure, in
which she joined most heartily.

In Kettle's hut we met with a most graceful re-
ception from his wife, Oom-gna, who presented each
of us with a piece of rein-deer fat as a compliment.
I ate my morsel, and found it sweet and good.

While examining the interior of the huts, we
found many opportunities of establishing ourselves
in the favour of the Eskimaux by attentions to their
children, whose first appearance gave me a most fa-
vourable idea of their quiet and unobtrusive manners,
and I never afterwards had occasion to alter my opi-
nion of them. I could not look on these modest
little savages, without being obliged to draw com-
parisons rather disadvantageous to many sweet little
spoiled children in England, and I inly determined,
should I ever be blessed with a family of my own, to
tell them many stories of these Indians, whose orderly
behaviour might be an example to them. Of the
outward garb of my young friends I cannot say much,
for they were as dirty as human creatures could pos-
sibly be ; their large dresses, which I shall at some
future page describe, giving them when their faces
were hidden, the appearance of young bears, wolves,

•*••

120

liSiv I M A I X N U 11 SI N a .

Ift

seals, and puppy dogs : they were, however, the pic-
ture of health, rosy, fat, and strong, with the finest
black eyes imaginable, and a profusion of long jetty
hair.

The faces of the young women would, if cleaner, have
been considered pleasing, notwithstanding the great
breadth of their features, for they had a fine rosy colour
with, brilliant and expressive eyes. All the females,
while we were present, repeatedly uttered a kind of
grunt, which I at length discovered to be a sign of
great satisfaction. We observed a boy, of at least
four years of age, walk up to his mother and ask for
the breast, which she immediately presented to him,
at the same time squeezing the milk into his mouth
with both her hands.

Attention to the comforts of the children was evi-
dent in every action of the mother ; yet, whatever
romantic ideas I might have formed about nursing
in England, I could not here conjure up any very sen-
timental fancies, the babes being kept naked against
their parents' bare back, which, it might be conceived,
did not much improve the naturally dirty appearance
of the latter. But I dare not, and indeed have no
wish to proceed farther on a subject which would
disgust those I am striving to amuse.

Scarcely any ornaments were worn, or possessed,
by the women, except a small bracelet of beads, so
that they received our looking-glasses and trinkets
with raptures, which showed that they were as much
delighted with innocent finery as the fair sex in a

TATTOEING.

121

better country. When I say they have few ornaments,
I am in error, for I ought to mention the Kak-keen
(or tattoe) with which they are covered, not excepting
the thighs and breasts. The patterns vary a little,
but their position is always the same. To describe
their arrangement, I should have ventured to give a
drawing of a female figure in the frontispiece, and
have painted the ornaments e7i place, had I not
thought the introduction of a naked lady not quite
correct ; besides which, whatever may have been said
of the looseness of the manners of the women, I am
confident none would have consented to the exhibition
of more than one limb at a time.

My curiosity determined me on seeing how the
kakeen was performed, and I accordingly put my-
self into the hands of Mrs. Kettle, whom I had
adopted as my Amama, or mother. Having furnished
her with li fine needle, she tore with her teeth a thread
off a deer's sinew, and thus prepared the sewing appa-
ratus : she then, without a possibility of darkening
her hands beyond their standard colour, passed her
fingers under the bottom of the stone pot, from
whence she collected a quantity of soot ; with this,
together with a little oil, and much saliva, she soon
made a good mixture, and taking a small piece of
whalebone well blackened, she then drew a variety of
figures about my arm, differing, as I easily saw, from
those with which she herself was marked ; and calling
her housemates, they all enjoyed a good laugh at the
figures, which perhaps conveyed some meaning I
could not fathom.

l\u

TATTOEING.

l-^'l

■^<^

■ ■i''i [■'

I liad, however, only determined on a few stitches,
so that lier trouble was in some measure thrown away.
She commenced her work by blackening the thread
with soot, and taking a pretty deep but short stitch
in my skin, carefully pressing her thumb on the
wound as the thread passed through it, and beginning
each stitch at the place where the last had ceased.
My flcsli being tough, she got on but slowly, and
having broken one needle in trying to force it
through, I thought fit, when she had completed forty
stitches, or about two inches, to allow her to desist :
then rubbing the part with oil, in order to staunch a
little blood wliich appeared, she finished the operation.
I could now form an idea of the price paid by the
Eskimaux females for their embellishments, which for
a time occasion a slight inflammation and some degree
of pain. The colour which the kakeen assumes when
the skin heals, is of the same light blue as we see on
the marked arms of seamen.

Such general good humour and merriment reigned
in every hut, that observing but one sad face, that of a
young woman, I was led to inquire by signs the cause
of it, and found that it was occasioned by her suf-
fering from a complaint in the chest, and from grief
at having lost her infant ; yet this poor creature always
brightened up on being spoken to, and endeavoured
to look as happy as her companions. During our
visit we had not omitted to purchase little toys and
trifles which were new to us, and in all the traffic it
was observable that the husbands and wives consulted
each other on any bargains of importance. We

llOiNKSTV.

Ij^cJ

easily effected the purchase of bows and arrows which
had stone heads, and observed that some of the bows
were made of the split horn of deer, strengthened by
the usual assemblage of sinews along the back.

In every family we found proofs of some inter-
course having existed with Europeans, although ap-
parently through an intermediate channel; knives,
tools, two large copper kettles, and beads having been
met with ; amongst the tools were some women's
knives, mounted by Europeans : one had the names of
Wild and Sorby, and another that of Potter, while
several had initials stamped on them in Roman
letters.

We were all in admiration of the honesty of the
natives, who would not even appropriate a bead
dropped by accident, without permission, even al-
though novelty and opportunity m.ight have been
offered as an excuse for them.

To convince myself more fully of their possessing
this noble virtue, I left knives, scissurs, looking-
glasses, and, in fact, my whole stock in trade on the
bed-place in Kettle's hut, from whence I absented
myself for a considerable time, leaving above a dozen
natives behind me. On my return I found my goods
carefully covered with a skin, and unmoved from the
spot on which I had placed them.

From some of the officers I learnt that various
articles which they had accidentally dropt, or left
behind, were brought by those who found them, hold-
ing the objects up, as if inquiring for their proper

5 •

i l»il

121-

riiosr JUTKS.

.;^:i I

I •
I' I -■

A )

owners. Several Eskiinaux, while standing outside
the huts, received trifling presents, such as a needle
or button, and in almost every instance, returned
soon after to offer a pair of mittens, a skin, an ivory
ornament, or some other exchange, which they
thought would prove acceptable. While sitting at
home the natives appeared greatly to feel the cold,
and indeed the warmest dwelling only rose the
thennometer to 5° above the freezing point. In
consequence of this comfortless temperature, both
sexes had a custom, which I afterwards found to bo
very general, of withdrawing their arms from the
loose sleeves of their jackets, and crossing them
against the naked breast. I have before mentioned the
snug place in v/hich the naked infants aro deposited,
and where they lie very warm ; but I was amazed,
in two or three instances, to see these little creatures
sitting with half their bodies exposed to a tempera-
ture of 3'2° below zero, for at least ten minutes,
while their mothers were outside the huts, and this
without any injury to their tender skin; while we full-
grown Europeans, with all our precautions, were fre-
quently frost-bitten in half the time. In these cases
the Eskimaux have a very effectual way of restoring
the circulation, which is by laying a warm hand on
the place affected. We, on the contrary, had always
been accustomed to rub the spot with snow, which fre-
quently caused irritation, and left the part so tender
as to render it extremely susceptible of other attacks.
As we dined in one of the huts, the natives of course

i)()(;s.

1,25

partook of some of our food, whicli they approved
very much; but in no one instance did they bej^
for any, though their own stock of provisions seemed
but scanty, and in fact, very few of the people took
a full meal while we were with them. What they
did eat was in as many instances raw as boiled, and
both food and utensils were so indescribably filthy
and oily, that the stomachs of many of our party
were quite turned. I however had fortunately served
a kind of apprenticeship to bad and unsavoury
food, and therefore managed better. My friends,
the Arabs, were frequently brought to my re-
membrance by the repeated and satisfactory eructa-
tions of both sexes. As almost every digestible
substance i? eaten by Eskimaux, it can scarcely be
supposed that their dogs were in very good case, and
in fact, the poor lean creatures prowled about the
huts in a most dejected manner. The system of
starvation seemed to have the effect of making these
animals particularly docile at this period, which we
were not sorry for, as they had most terrific tusks.
To prevent them from straying to any distance, it
was customary to tie one of the fore legs up to the
neck, so that an attempt to run, immediately threw
the animal down. Some which appeared wild and
shy were tethered by their sledge harness to a stone
or piece of ice. The younger branches of the dog
family were well taken care of, and there were two
or three litters with their mothers lying in the beds of
their masters.

1^26

WOLVKS.

■ ■ ■» , .

We returned on board at dusk, highly delighted
with our visit, and inclined to think most favourably
of our new acquaintances.

A wolf was shot during the night, by two of the
Fury's officers. It was a male, and very large, yet
so miserably thin, as to weigh only OSlbs.

Some officers who visited the huts on the Sd^ had
the satisfaction of seeing the return of the hunters,
who had been sealing on the ice, bringing in four
seals which they had procured. Amongst some
fresh instances of honesty, I heard of one man bring-
ing a dog which had been sold, and which afterwards
escaped home, to the person who purchased it, and
who could not have known it again amongst the
great number of others of the same colour. Two
men, also, were observed struggling for an ornament
which had been dropped, but it was soon seen to bo
a dispute as to which should bring it to the proper
owner.

Twelve wolves were lying in wait between the huts
and the ships, for any Eskimaux dogs which should
pass, and we saw one unfortunate animal very nar-
rowly escape from them. On the 4th, I again
went to the huts with a party : we met with some
young men on the way, who were coming to the
ships, but they turned back with us. In order to
amuse us, they shot occasionally at any lump of ice
which lay in their way, with a small bow which was
made for the market. As they seldom hit their
mark, I held up my leg in derision, as a butt to be

I-UXUUIES.

Vil

shot at, but I evidently saw that although they affected
to take a steady aim, they avoided hitting it, for fear
of hurting me. On entering the huts, we every where
saw abundant proofs of the recent capture of seals,
blubber, flesh, blood, bones, and offal, lying in every
direction ; all the lamps were well supplied with fat,
and every cooking pot was in requisition ; stewing ex-
traordinary mixtures of meat, blood, and uncleaned
entrails, under the superintendence of the women ;
two of them, in Kettle's hut, were discussing with
great satisfaction and sociability, a large pot of
boiled seal's blood and oil, which they sipped alter-
nately one mouthful each until it was finished, with
far greater zest than European ladies take their tea.
The soup being drank, the younger damsel licked
the blood from her fingers with great decency and
decorum, afte: which she scraped whatever had
dropped on her jacket and boots with a long knife,
carefully cleaning it occasionally with that inimitable
pocket handkerchief, the tongue. The elder lady,
disdaining the frivolity of her companion, gloried
in the tokens of feasting by which she was covered,
and scorned to remove the luxurious blushing paste
which coated her face and hands. Both then
treated themselves to rather a strange but very plen-
tiful dessert from the heads of two young children,
which underwent the strictest examination ; and
such luckless interlopers as were discovered, soon
found a grave in the mouths of the relentless hun-
tresses, who cracked them between their teeth with

. }

lJ?8

MANNb:i{ or i)inr.i,iN(; holks.

■I

. li-

the most evident satisfaction. On pointing out tlie
woman whom I had seen sucklinj>* lier son on the
first day, she repeated this little scene of tenderness
immediately; but not content with this exhibition, she
squirted her child's provision over us with such
spirit, as to drive us out of the hut.

I had employed a younjjj man named A-yo-kltt, to
manufacture an eye-shade for me. As is customary
with negroes, he cut towards the left hand, and never
used the thumb of the right, as we do, for a check to the
knife. A small awl answered the purpose of a whetter
to him, and also as a drill for making holes, in which
case a bow and string are used as with us to give the
rotatory motion, and a piece of wood or bone is held
between the teeth and pressed with force on the
drill, to steady it. '-CJie neatness with which holes are
made in ivory, is extraordinary, considering the tools
made use of, but above all, the piercing foxes teeth is
the most amazing,the holes being scarcely large enough
to allow of a fine needle passing through them.

Ata-na-ghtoo, a fine young woman, came to the
hut while I was in it, and taking her little sister
out of her mother's hood, sat herself very quietly
down and suckled it. 8he had lost her own child
a short time before. In coming back to the ships,
we met several natives returning home, all of whom
held up the different presents they had received,
with signs of great satisfaction. Near the Hecla, we
found a woman and her rosy little child on their
knees busily seeking some very small beads which

MANNKIl OP SKWING.

V20

had been dropped on the snow at our first interview
with the natives, the spot having been marked by
the erection of a small slab of snow. On our ap-
proach she ceased her occupation, as if fearful that
we should prevent her ; but by her looks, asked if
she might continue the search, licking at the same
time one of the beads, to show that she would re-
ceive them as a present from us. A small necklace
which I added to her stock, made the poor creature
completely happy. In the beaten track we passed a
tin canister containing a knife, some pieces of iron
hoop, and beads, which had been left by the owner,
with the most implicit confidence in the honesty of
our people and of his own countrymen. He was in
the mean time employed with a dozen others, in
turning up our dirt heap, from whence many prizes
of broken bottles, rags, and pieces of wood were very
gratefully taken, Mr. Hoppner's permission having
been obtained before they commenced their search.

On the 5th. some of us again visited the huts, and on
our way were passed by a wolf, which did not betray
any alarm at our appearance, but quietly walked on.

We found that the men were nearly all absent on a
scaling excursion, and the women busily occupied in
making shoes, boots, and other articles for the market ;
and now, for the first time, we observed the pecu-
liar manner in which they use their needles; this
is, by holding them betwixt the thumb and middle
finger, while the impetus is given by the fore-finger,
well armed by a thimble of leather: all sewing,

, /

180

SICK BOV.

I I',

I ,:

therefore, is towards the body. Their manner of
working is extremely neat and regular; but what
particular kind of stitch they commonly use, I am un-
able, from my ignorance of every thing except darn-
ing, to specify. Sinews of deer, split to the requi-
site thickness, answer the purpose of thread, and are
undoubtedly much more durable. While at work
the women frequently chaunted, in a low tone, their
monotonous tunes, which much reminded me of the
** boori, or vvitch songs," sung by the Soudan ne-
gresses while occupied in their household work.

In a compartment of one of the huts the entrance
was half blocked up with snow, in order to confine a sick
idiot boy who had been left by his parents when going
to the ships. I observed the poor child, who was five
or six years of age, busily occupied in devouring the
contents of the lamp, taking, indiscriminately, oil,
moss, blubber, and soot, and seasoning these deli-
cacies by an occasional bite of a very dirty lump of
snow. Whilst I was admiring the taste of the boy,
he was suddenly seized with a severe epileptic fit, and
before we could break down the door, had forced him-
self from between his deer-skin blankets, and fallen
naked on the icy floor: after a very strong fit he
gradually recovered, and from mere exhaustion fell
asleep. Some of the Eskimaux who were present,
turned the whole affair into ridicule, and said he had
eaten too much ; but I soon found that the child's fa-
tuity proceeded from a frequent recurrence of epilepsy.

During our visit I was enabled to add many words

AYOOKITT.

to my vocabulary, and was cheerfully assisted in that
object by the readiness of the natives to give ine in-
formation, it being merely requisite to point a pencil
at the object in question, and to produce a book, to
set all in company vociferating iu name with most
merry shouts. Ay-o-kitt, Kfi-ree-ta, and his wife
Ata-na-ghioo-c'e, accompanied us back to the ships.
In our walk we heard the cry of the pack of wolves
very close to us, and as we supposed, in chase of
some prey near, or amongst the hummocky ice. On
our dirt heap we found, as usual, a large assemblage
of men, women, and children, some of the latter of
whom were so very rosy and pretty, that in spite of
their dirt I longed to kiss them.

Kettle was on the quarter-deck, exhibiting his
powers of eating on an immense pot of bread dust,
moistened with train oil, of which also he occasion-
ally took a mouthful with great relish*. Ay-o6-kTtt,
who had become a great favourite of mine, paid me
a long visit in the cabin, where I gave him food,
obliging him to use a knife and fork like an European,
to wipe his mouth previously to drinking, and not to
put any piece of meat beyond the size of an orange
into it at one time ; the Eskimaux having an extra-
ordinary propensity to cram their mouths so full as
to allow no room for respiration.

As I enforced my instructions by example, I after-

* Crantz says the Eskimaux will not drink oil ; perhaps not
as a draught, but they certsdnly enjoy an occasional sip with any
dry food,

! t

132

BOLDNESS OF THE

;^r I; ■ 1

. t

'1 ;

t:' ^

wafds washed my face and hands, making him do the
same ; during the operation, I saw him cast many
longing looks at the tempting piece of yellow soap
which we Were using, until at length his repeated
Ay-yfia's of admiration determined me on making
him happy, and he devoured it with delight.

The wolves had now grown so bold as to come
alongside, and on this night they broke into a snow
house, in which a couple of newly purchased Eski-
maux dogs were confined, and carried them off, but
not without some difficulty, for in the daylight we
found even the ceiling of the hut sprinkled with
blood and hair. When the alarm was given, and the
wolves were fired at, one of them was observed carry-
ing a dead dog in his mouth, clear of the ground, at
a canter, notwithstanding the animal was of his own
weight. He dropped his prey, however, on being
pursued, and I joined two men in bringing back the
dead dog, during which the whole pack of twelve
wolves eyed us very eagerly, and we could just discern
them through the gloom, sidleing along parallel to
us as we walked to the ship. Before morning, they
tore a quantity of canvas off the observatory and de-
voured it.

During the two last days, all the Eskimaux who
had visited us complained sadly of hunger, which
we endeavoured to alleviate. Although the weather
had been very fine, no attempts were made to take
seals ; and we soon began to find that these impro-
vident people rarely sought for food until impelled

TACK OF WOLVES.

133

by necessity little short of starvation. The huts
contained only a few old people, with the women and
children, destitute of food; the lamps were extin-
guished, and all the oil licked frca them : yet the
men were all walking about on board the ships, with-
out any regard for the distresses of their families.

Early in the morning of the 7th, the wolves came
in a body and carried away the carcass of a dog which
had been moored as a decoy, on the ice alongside
with strong ropes, even before a musket could be got
ready for them ; and when they had dragged their
prize a short distance from the ship, a most furious
battle was fought for it. For several nights they
had broken and straightened baited hooks and chains
set for them by the Fury, and when it is known that
the hooks were made of the iron ramrods of muskets,
some idea may be formed of the strength of jaw re-
quisite to break them. .

In the evening a wolf was taken in a trap set by
the Fury, and three balls were fired through him
while imprisoned. His hind legs were then tied,
and he was dragged out, tail foremost, by a rope ;
this he instantly bit through with ease, springing
at Mr. Richards, who was the nearest to him, and
seizing him by the knee : being thrown off, the ani-
mal flew at his arm, but, with great presence of
mind, Mr. Richards grasped his throat and flung
him back, at the same time retreating a pace or two,
when the wolf quickly made his escape, having done
no other damage than tearing Mr. Richards's clothes,
and slightly wounding his arm. It was very for-

ins

;t i

Ki. 1

134

ESKIMAUX MUSIC.

tunate that the requisite quantity of winter clothing
formed a good defence, and that the person attacked
was a powerful young man, the effects might other-
wise have been more serious. Mr. Nias struck the
animal once or twice with a cutlass, but without doing
it any injury.

On the morning of the 8th the same wolf was found
round the S.E. point, frozen quite stiff. A raven
discovered the position of the carcass, by hovering
over it, after having picked out one of the eyes.

Captain Parry invited me on board the Fuiy to
an Eskimaux concert, in which live ladies and a
gentleman performed. Their tunes were extremely
monotonous, but sung in good time. As these
ditties will frequently be mentioned, I may here in-
sert them, without deferring it to a general account.*

* No. 1, as many verses as " Chevy Chase."

^^ ^^f^^ n : ^ - 9 -if -f - FF\j' r P pl

Amna aya aya am - na, ah, &c.

Song

^S^E^

^^^

^ Sldlli.^^ F3 Tf3T3=^^

This tune is most commonly used 3 and as almost each person
has a song of his own, of course every wife sings her husband's
" favourite air, unless in company, when all sing alike.

ESKIIVUUX MUSIC.

135

Oko-took, the man, uncovered his head while sing-
ing, and observing his little boy's hood up, pushed
it back somewhat roughly. The women, while sing-
ing, either entirely closed, or kept their eyes half
open in a very languishing manner.

In return for the .^OLgs, Captain Parry and some of
the officers treated the natives with some instrumental
music, of which I thought the flageolet was most ad-
mired. Ilig-li-ak, the wife of Oko-tdok, appeared to
have a very accurate ear, and seemed much distressed
at being unable to sing in time to a large organ.
All the women had remarkably sweet voices ; and I
think the tones of Togor-lat, when speaking, were as
musical as any I had ever heard. The distress of the

No 2 has only one verse.

wat - - &c.

Pillitay, a - wata - wat -

w^m

• ••m I d • ■ • f-p>

(i\

ah! hooi!

ah ! hooi !j

It is absolutely impossible to describe by notes, or otherwise,
the two last words, which are uttered with a wildness ap-
proaching to a joyous yell.

136

A PRESENT.

via

,|i r

people at the huts was extreme on this dayj and
many of them were found chewing pieces of dirty
hide with the hair on. Our visitors therefore were
plentifully supplied with oil and bread-dust for them-
selves and for those who were absent. Water was as
much required as food, no lamps being alight to thaw
the snow ; and some enormous draughts were conse-
quently made. Parties who had been in quest of seals,
returned without having been successful. Kettle came
on board, and, after much fumbling, and ultimately
pulling off one jacket, produced and offered me a
curious fishing-hook and line attached to a piece of
deer's horn : the hook was made of a bent nail, fitted
into a lump of ivory of the size of a walnut, which
I was given to understand would, by its glittering
in the water, prove attractive to the fishes.

As this was the first present I had seen or heard
of, I could not do less than invite the donor and his
wife below, where, amongst other things, I showed
them some dresses and weapons from the Savage
Islands: the former of these differed materially in
cut and material, being of seals' skins, from the
Winter Island costume, and of course excited much
interest. While examining these, I was surprised
by the old man's suddenly rising, and exactly imi-
tating the cries and gestures of our first visitants,
and afterwards performing the quiet salutations we
had received from his own tribe; this he did in so
marked a manner, as to convince all present that he
was drawing no very favourable comparison between

ARNALOOA.

1»7

the two. I now learnt that he called the other
people Khtad-ler-miioo. My old friends being dis-
missed, I received a visit from a very comical fellow,
the smallest of the tribe, four feet ten inches in
height, and his young and pretty wife. I obtained
a tolerable sketch of the latter, and a copy also of the
kakeen on her arm and shoulder. During this time
she frequently blushed deeply, which convinced me
that these people have, in spite of their otherwise
rather irregular conduct, an innate sense of modesty,
as far as regards exhibiting any part of the person.
In return for the complaisance of my visitors, I treated
them with some bread, and a couple of mould candles,
of which, in consequence of my respect for the lady,
the largest, a fine six to the pound, became her
share. These dainties were most thankfully received ;
and when Arna-loo-a had discussed the tallow, I
took the wick from her mouth, lest her swallowing it
also, as she fully intended doing, should disagree with
her. The husband, who had obtained, in addition
to his proper name of Koo-^lit-teuk, or great coat,
that of the "Jealous little Man," appeared to have some
cause for being so ; as I observed the young lady, in
spite of her blushing, to cast some very roguish looks
on the party in my cabin ; from this I found the cor-
rectness of Crantz's statement, that " the Eskimaux
women are as well skilled in the language of the
eyes, as a Turkish courtezan."

138

WOLF CAUGHT.

*.v.

CHAPTER IV.

Wolf caught— The snuflF-box — Seals caught— Voracious feeding
— The marines — Okotook and Iligliak — An eclipse — ^Ayookitt
—Walrus killed— The thirteenth wolf killed— Charts obtained
— Journey across the island — A dance — Kettle and the spirit
— Beef stolen.

The people at the huts slaughtered three dogs,
and were found eating scraps of skins. On receiving
this information, we instantly sent sufficient bread-
dust to afford them a meal.

On the 10th we sent them a further supply, add-
ing to it the carcass of a wolf killed by the Fury.
No seals were caught ; and the people who took our
provisions up, reported that the hunger of the natives
was quite voracious ; yet the grown people first sup-
plied all the children, and afterwards divided the re-
mainder in equal portions amongst themselves.

On the night of the 11th, a wolf was caught in a
trap, set by Mr. Griffiths, and after being to all ap-
pearance killed, was in that state dragged on board.
The eyes however, as it lay on the deck, were ob-
served to wink whenever any object was placed near
them: some precautions were therefore considered
necessary j and the legs being tied, the animal was
hoisted up with his head downwards. He then, to
our surprise, made a vigorous spring at those near
him ; and afterwards repeatedly turned himself up-
wards, so as to reach the rope by which he was sus-
pended, endeavouring to gnaw it asunder, and making
angry snaps at the persons who prevented him. Sc-

SEALS TAKEN.

139

veral heavy blows were struck on the back of his
neck, and a bayonet was put through him, yet above
a quarter of an hour elapsed before he died ; having
completely convinced us that for the future, we
should not too easily trust to the appearance of death
in animals of this description.

On this day the poor Eskimaux caught two seals,
which were equally divided, the captors merely ap-
propriating the skins in addition to their regular
share.

On the 13th, three more seals were taken, and all
past miseries were forgotten, in the enormous feeding
which now took place. Every lamp was alight ; and
boiling and stewing went on with great spirit. Kettle
and his wife brought me the model of a canoe, pad-
dles, &c. which I had commissioned him to make;
and in return I presented him with an axe, which
was received with such raptures by his wife, as almost
to throw her into hysterics. On the first visits of the
Eskimaux, they had been much puzzled to account
for all the kabloona not being related to each other,
as they themselves were. To save trouble, there-
fore, I became the father of every body ; and, as my
cabin was the largest, and I lived by myself, they all
believed me to be so ; until at length some of my
adopted children were found to be a few years older
than myself, a contradiction which Mrs. Kettle, who
was most indefatigable in her inquiries, could not at
all reconcile.

The coldness of the 14th, although it confined us
to the ships, did not prevent the Eskimaux from

140

LEAP-FttOG.

coming down. Oko-took, and his wife Iligliak, paid
me a visit ; and on my exhibiting, amongst the usual
articles of show, a musical snuff-box, they took it for
granted that it must be the child of my small hand-
organ. While listening to its tunes, they frequently
repeated, in a low tone, the word In-ntia (a spirit),
with great emphasis, and I have no doubt that they
fancied some superior being was enshrined in the
instrument. Oko-took informed me that there was
no food at the huts ; yet none of the men were in
search of seals, but were carelessly lounging about
the ships. He wore a medal of copper, which had
been given him by Pa-ri, with the ships' names
stamped on it; and other medals were afterwards
distributed, in the hope that owing to the wander-
ing life of the Eskimaux, some one of these orna-
ments might, through our factories, reach England
before our return.

Our hungry visitors on the 15th were no sooner
fed, than the game of leap-frog was set on foot by
our seamen. The Eskimaux having no idea of jump-
ing in this manner, afforded much amusement. The
younger men took such over-leaps, as frequently to
pitch upon their heads, when, with great unconcern
and much good humour, they again returned to the
game, although the blows they received brought
the water into their eyes. The general mirth was
not less excited by the effects of a winch, at which
one man easily mastered and drew towards him ten
or twelve others, who held by a rope, using all their
strength, and grinning with exertion and determina-

SEALS CAUGHT.

141

tion, until conquered ; when they all joined in their
usual good-humoured laugh. Kettle, who was too old
to join in these amusements, stood by with some other
veterans, and the whole party laughed until the tears
ran down their cheeks. Before my old friend went
away, he drank nearly two quarts of water at a
draught, and I gave him some dog's flesh for his
wife, which for security he placed between his inner
boot, and the naked calf of his dirty leg. To other
ladies who remained at home, I sent a few choice
candle ends by their husbands, a piece of civility for
which I afterwards received the warmest thanks.

Two of our friends had their faces fantastically
painted with water-colours, which afforded them much
amusement, and they said that their wives would
not know them again, but would imagine they were
Kabloona women. (A pretty compliment to our
fair ladies at home). To ensure patience while the
ornaments were applied by candle-light, we treated
each in his turn with a bite of the lower end, until
our ornaments and candle expired together.

On the l6th, I was rejoiced to find that the seal
hunters had been successful ; blood, blubber, entrails,
skins, and flesh, lying sociably intermixed in savoury
heaps. Abundant smoking messes were in prepara-
tion, and even the dogs looked happy as they unin-
terruptedly licked the faces of the children, who
were covered with blood and grease from the chin
to the eyes. Universal merriment prevailed, and
such men and children as could bear more food
stood lounging round the women, who sat sucking

14^

UKLICACIES.

A':

,1-

their fingers, and cooking as fast as possible. While
the messes were preparing, the children solaced
themselves by eating such parts of the raw uncleaned
entrails as their young teeth could tear, and those
morsels which proved too tough, were delivered over
to their mothers, who soon reduced them to a proper
size and consistency for their tender offspring.

While witnessing these little intermediate repasts,
I learnt a new, and certainly very effectual way of
cleaning the hands of children, which is simply by
introducing them clenched into the mouth of the
mother, who, in a very short time, by the assistance
of her tongue, renders them quite as they should be.
At the distribution of the contents of one of the
pots, I was complimented with a fine piece of half-
stewed seal's flesh, from which the kind donor, a
most unsavoury looking old lady, had, with the most
obliging politeness, first licked the gravy and dirt,
and bitten it all round in order to ascertain the
most tender part on which I should make the first
attack. My refusal of this delicacy did not offend ;
and we had much laughing on the subject, parti-
cularly when the old woman, with well-feigned dis-
gust, and many wry faces, contrived to finish it her-
self. In my rambles on this day of plenty, I found,
beyond a doubt, that the women do not eat with the
men ; but waiting until they are first satisfied, then
enjoy a feast by themselves. In the mean time how-
ever, the females who superintend the cooking have
the privilege of licking the gravy from the lumps
of meat as they are taken out, and before they are

DELICACIES.

143

ow-

■lave

mps

are

presented to their husbands. Both sexes eat in the
same manner, although not in equal proportions;
the females very seldom, and the men very fre-
quently stuffing until quite stupified. A lump of
meat being given to the nearest person, he first sucks
it all round, and then pushes as much as he can into
his mouth, cutting it from the larger piece close to
his lips, to the great danger of them and of his nose.
The meat then passes round until consumed, and
the person before whom it stopped is entitled to the
first bite of the next morsel. In this manner a
meal continues a long time, as each eats, or rather
bolts several pounds, and the pots are in consequence
frequently replenished. In the intermediate time,
the convives suck their fingers, or indulge in a few
lumps of delicate raw blubber. The swallows of the
Eskimaux are of such marvellous capacity, that a
piece of flesh of the size of an orange very rarely re-
ceives half a dozen bites before it is bolted, and that
without any apparent exertion. The rich soup of the
meat is handed round at the close of the repast, and
each takes a sup in turn until it is finished, when the
pot is passed to the good woman of the house, who
licks it carefully clean, and then prepares to make
a mess for herself. On all occasions the children
are stuffed almost to suffocation. The meals being
finished, every one scrapes the grease, &c. from his
face into his mouth, and the fingers are then cleaned
by sucking. In one of the huts a most lively little
boy, of about four years of age, challenged me to
dance, and began singing and beating his drum,

144

AMUSINCJ CHILD.

.*-■

♦ . '

- M

r"!

which he accompanied by the usual caperings. When
it became my turn to exhibit, the little fellow sat with
the greatest solemnity to witness my performance.

After we were both well tired, I was much amused
by seeing him take my book and pencil, with which
he walked to every person in the hut, and gravely
asking their names, affected to write them down as
he had seen me do. This shrewd boy was, in my
opinion, the ugliest of the tribe ; and his face, in ad-
dition to excessive dirt, was so completely shadowed
by long and tangled hair, that he could scarcely
make use of his eyes. His jacket and breeches were
all of one piece, of the skin of a deer, and into this
dress he was ushered by means of a split in the back.
He wore, as a cap, the skin of a fawn's head, orna-
mented with tassels at the edge, having the ears,
nose, and eye-holes complete, so that when viewed
from behind it was scarcely possible to imagine that
any thing human was contained in so wild a garb*.
The drum of which I have spoken is formed of
whalebone, and over this a thin skin or bladder is
stretched. It is played on by being beat on the
lower edge, and not the skin, and sounds like a bad
tambourine. I saw two only of these instruments,
both of which were children's toys. Returning on
board, I passed seven wolves, which, although it was
open day, were prowling near the huts as if on the
watch for the dogs. Mrs. Kettle, who had brought

* This poor little fellow was drowned at Igloolik, by falling
through a crack in the ice.

TIIK MAUINKS,

II;

falling

nic a pair of fi^loves, visited nic with licr husband ;
and after they had sociably eaten a couple of candles
and a little lip salve, were treated with a sight of some
prints of animals, by which means I obtained the
names of several, as they instantly recognized those
they had been accustomed to see. My little black cat
afforded them an unceasing fund of entertaiinnent,
although a long time elapsed before they would ven-
ture to touch him with their naked hands. When
the animal jumped over my arms, their admiration
was expressed by slowly and forcibly inhaling their
breath, and quickly nodding the head. Some laven-
der water which I made the old woman smell to
caused her to sneeze as if she had taken a large
pinch of snuff, and she said the scent was Ma-mait-
pok (very bad).

Kettle was on this day constituted a medal man,
and was sent away much pleased with his ornament.

The 17th being Sunday, our visitors were refused
admittance in the early part of the day, and when
we all left the Hecla to attend church on board the
Fury, their astonishment was unbounded ; never
having seen us in regular uniform, but generally in
thick great coats, they could scarcely recognize even
their particular friends. The gay appearance of the
marines, such, even in this climate, is the attractive
influence of a red coat, so delighted the ladies, that
they all danced and shouted in an ecstasy of plea-
sure as each soldier passed before them.

Togor-lat, Eewe-rat, and their children, with Poo-

146

THE SERJEANT.

to6arlo5 and his wives, paid me a visit. The ladies
were all highly ornamented by the hand of Captain
Parry, who had cased their pigtails in scarlet cloth.
Togorlat's little child Toben-rat was exceedingly
amusing ; and being pulled naked out of her mother's
hood volunteered to dance. With her, as indeed
with all the other children, I observed that as soon
as the awe at first excited by our presence had worn
off, they did not allow our visits to interfere with
their sports; but, on the contrary, often performed
many little tricks for our amusement.

During the exhibition of Tobenrat's dancing, I ob-
served the eyes of the elder ladies turned with great
complacency on the serjeant of marines, my servant,
who b jing in his best jacket excited great admiration.
It was but too plain that I shone with diminished
rays in the presence of so brilliant an object ; I there-
fore made a determined struggle for precedence, and
succeeded to my wish by producing a flashy coat lined
with yellow baize, and once worn with becoming dig-
nity by Major Sturgeon, in the " Mayor of Garratt."
Togorlat*s visit was, as I soon found, for the purpose
of entrusting her poor idiot son to my charge, in
order that he might be cured and fed. The mother
was evidently distressed by my refusal, not being
able to understand my reasons for declining such a
task. In addition to natural imbecility of intellect, the
unfortunate child was dumb; it had also the rickets,
epileptic fits, and a very unpleasant squint. Both
parents were extremely attentive to the poor boy,

M ■ *

M vmmi

W')I.F-TRAP.

never losing patience with him, and employing very
mild words to direct or reprove him. Each lady
having been presented with a bottle, which was in-
stantly stowed in her boot, my visitors took their
leave. From some of our gentlemen who were at the
huts I was surprised to hear, that the immense store
of flesh which I had seen on the preceding day was
entirely consumed, and that every one complained of
hunger, although, on a moderate average, each per-
son must have eaten ten pounds in the course of the
preceding night. A dog having been carried off by
the wolves, a trap was set close to the huts. This con-
trivance was formed of heavy slabs of solid ice, having
a ponderous door or portcullis of the same material,
which fell in a groove. This was kept up by means
of a string passing along the top of the structure,
and carried through a hole at the farthest end, where
it was fastened to a hoop of whalebone which bore
the bait, and was slightly hooked under a projecting
piece of ice, so that when the vfo\£ or fox pulled the
meat, the hoop flew clear and the door fell. The
trap was so low and narrow as tc preclude all possi-
bility of the imprisoned animal escaping, so that he
could be easily killed as he lay. I heard this even-
ing with the greatest pleasure, that our seamen had
agreed amongst themselves in a most generous deter-
mination of saving a daily proportion of their pro-
visions to assist the Eskimaux, in case they should
again be reduced to the same miserable si;ate of starva-
tion from which we had already once or twice relieved

L 2

j:^,

148

TATTOEING.

* .

I I

i I I

them. In all cases we daily issued a supply of
bread-dust and oil ; and I frequently saw our kind-
hearted men adding portions of their allowance of
meat for those who were most distressed.

Two fine seals were caught on the 18th, and one
of our officers was at the opening of the animals,
which was numerously attended by man and beast.
The fattest parts of the still warm entrails were given
to the children, and the grown persons then selected
such morsels as suited their palates, throwing the re-
fuse to the dogs. A new refinement in the luxury of
eating was on this day, and very frequently after-
wards, observed, — this happy country alone affording
almost constant means of procuring it; which was, that
the children amused themselves by allowing various
parts of the intestines to freeze quite crisp before
they ate them, so that they could snap them off in
lengths with their teeth, as our English youngsters
despatch barley-sugar.

On the 19th Togorlat and her mother Il-yuo-mia
brought me some little figures of Eskimaux very
neatly made and clothed, the characters and shapes,
particularly of the women, being exceedingly well
kept up. Togorlat employed half an hour in sewing
a pattern on my arm, and the old woman was em-
ployed by Mr. Bird in the same manner. I soon
however found from the loquacity of this ancient
lady, and her patient*s ejaculatory ohs ! that she was
extremely careless, and gave greater pain than was
necessary, while with barbarous indifference she

OKOTOOK AND ILIGLIAK.

149

mm
very
lapes,
well
wing
em-
soon
cient
e was
1 was
she

stitched away as if it was an old shoe she was ope-
rating on. My lady was more expert, and completed
a very pretty pattern ; but poor Mr. Bird, after all
his sufferings, discovered from the crookedness of the
lines, that Il-yoo-mea was more than half-blind, and
as the marks were indelible, there was no remedy.

Amongst numerous visitors on this day were
several children, whose rosy appearance was quite
delightful. Many of them had not yet been weaned,
though above three years of age, which was a most
providential circumstance; since the rank and coarse
food eaten by the grown-up persons would have ill
suited their palate or stomach, and the breasts
of their mothers could alone have saved their lives
during the three or four days' starvation to which
they were recently exposed. Had they been weaned,
they must all have fallen a sacrifice to the impro-
vidence and waste of their parents. Kettle, in his
usual merry way, gave me a great deal of information
respecting the manner of killing deer and bears in
the water, accompanying his description by most ad-
mirable pantomime, in which these people can coavey
a great deal of meaning. I shall at a future page
have occasion to mention the pursuits above named >

Okotook, and his intelligent wife Iligliak, paid me
a visit, and from them I obtained the names of many
birds and animals, by showing specimens and draw-
ing.s. Their little boy, an ugly and stupid-looking
young glutton, astonished me by the aptitude with
which he inntatcd the cries of each creature as it was

160

OKOTOOK AND ILIGLIAK.

exhibited. The young ducks answering the distant
call of their mother, had all the effect of ventrilo-
quism ; indeed, every sound, from the angry growl
of a bear to the sharp hum of a moskitoe, was given
in a wonderful manner by this boy. While ob-
taining the names of several trifles, I accidentally
showed some articles we had procured from the na-
tives of the Savage Islands, when Okotook rose and
imitated their cries with the same marks of contempt
as had before been shown by Kettle. Some of these
toys were now compared with others we had received
from his own tribe, and Iligliak examined the sewing
and fashion of their clothes, all of which objects they
immediately turned into ridicule ; and i saw that
national pride, which is said to exist in ail savages
in an eminent degree, was very evident in these
poor people, who considered the Shiad-lermi-oo as
barbarians in comparison with themselves, Okotook
appearing extremely indignant at being asked if he
was one of them. During their visit I frequently
observed this couple take each other by the hand,
and particularly while their attention was engaged by
a book of engravings. This I attributed to mutual
affection between man and wife, and, contrary to the
existing reports of these Indians, I felt convinced that
the women were really treated with great tenderness,
and that they loved their husbands. I found a most
joyous set of countenances on deck, in consequence of
some seals having been caught ; yet although a plentiful
breakfast had without doubt been made at the huts,

AN ECLIPSE.

151

not a grain of the usual allowance of bread-dust was
allowed to be left behind. By way of balance to
their good fortune in sealing, a line dog was lost in
the afternoon. The animal had strayed to the hum-
mocks a-head of us without its master, and Mr. Elder,
who was near to the spot, saw five wolves rush out,
attack, and devour it in an incredibly short space of
time ; before he could reach the place the carcass was
torn in pieces, and he found only the lower part of
one leg. The boldness of the wolves was altogether
astonishing, as they were almost constantly seen from
the ships during the day-time prowling amongst the
hummocks, or lying quietly at no great distance in
wait for dogs. From all we observed, I have no reason
to suppose that they would attack a single unarmed
man, both English and Eskimaux frequently pass-
ing tlA^Td without even a stick in their hands ; the
animals, however, exhibited no symptoms of fear, but
rather a kind of tacit agreement not to be the be-
ginners of a quarrel ; even though they might have
been certain of proving victorious.

An eclipse of the sun took place in the afternoon,
while a number of Eskimaux were on board. They
appeared much alarmed, and with one accord hurried
out of the ship. Before they were all on the ice a
brisk squall came on, and added not a little to their
terrors. Okotook ran wildly about under the stern,
gesticulating and screaming to the sun, while the
others gazed on it in silence and dread. The cor-
poral of marines found two of the natives lying pro-

152

AYOKITT.

, I

strate with their faces to tho ice quite panic-struck.
We learned tliat the eclipse was called shiek-e-nek
(the sun) tdoni-lik-pa.

Hearing that a piece of iron bolt and a tin funnel
had been missed from the deck, on making inquiry,
some of the Eskimaux, and especially Ka-wiin-gut, the
father of Iligliak, accused Kettle, who was absent, of
the theft. Ayokitt, who sat with me for some time,
amused himself by drawing men, animals, boats, &c. in
so curious and ingenious a manner, as to determine me
on treasuring his productions. In the animals there
was one striking peculiarity, which consisted in
having both eyes on the same side of the head. As
my friend had been very attentive to some officers
who slept at his brother's, I was glad of an oppor-
tunity of repaying his kindness, by inviting him to
sleep on board, which he gladly acceded to, and
having divested himself of his outer coat, washed his
face and hands, by my positive order, and made
himself look decent, he drew a chair, and] joined an
evening party round the fire. Coffee and ginger-
bread were given him, and he drank and ate with a
very resigned countenance, as if he was taking them
medicinally. He tried to smoke a segar, but failed,
to his great mortification, for it was evident that he,
as well as many other of his countrymen, was partial
to the smell of it. After all other attempts to please
the palate of my guest had been equally fruitless, he
succeeded to admiration with about 3lbs of tiie fat of
pork, a proportionate quantity of bread dust, and a

AYOKITT.

153

ase
he
of
a

quart of water. Having taught him to snufFmy candle,
and to stir the fire, to commit all the little animals he
might catch to the Hanies, instead of his mouth, and
to avoid a few other Eskimaux habits, we sociably sat
down to look over Rees*s Cyclopedia, and to examine
the plates, amongst which those of horses were the
most incomprehensible to him, especially after I had
succeeded in explaining that we rode on them.
These he distinguished by the name of Took -too, or
rein-deer, and all insects were Tak-ka-likki-tria, or
butterflies.

The worst compliment of all was paid to the poor Ka-
bloona, or Europeans, as in two instances he gave that
appellation to crabs, and once to a very lively party
of frogs ! In the course of the evening, he told a
long story about the eclipse, which he said had been
frightened away by Okotook ; and that all the Innii
were much alarmed, with the exception of himself, but
that seeing we were not frightened, he was very brave,
and laughed, disdaining to fall on his face, and say ya-
whooi 1 He spoke with great anger of the theft which
had been committed, accusing Kettle as the thief,
and afterwards calling over his own family on his
fingers, adding after each name, and with emphasis,
'* not a thiof." The poor fellow being of a lively dis-
position, was pleased with all my attempts to amuse
him, and seemed to con>ader me a very great " an-
natko," or wizard; but liad any Europeans seen me
making faces, they would have decided that I was
"no conjuror.'* To every object whose une and
formation he could nor comprthend, he applied in-

154

AYOKITT.

y . ' !

discriminately the same name ; and the chronometers
excited more than ordinary exclamations of surprise,
from his fancying they were alive. At about nine
o'clock he was completely tired out, yet was with
great difficulty prevailed on to lie down before my
fire; where he soon began snoring and dreaming,
frequently muttering words as he slept. He awakened
me so early on the morning of the 23d, that in self-
defence I was obliged to get up and answer the numer-
ous questions he put to me, while at the same time
he was busily assisting to brush my clothes, and to put
the cabin in order. Having shaved myself, I per-
formed the same operation on him, and afterwards
superintended at a fine warm water washing, to which
he was subjected, and which altered his complexion to
such a degree, that on looking in a glass and exa-
mining his hands and arms, he repeatedly exclaimed,
he was not Ayokitt, but a Kabloona. On his back
and right arm I observed three very large and
deep scars, made, as he said, by a she-bear, which
with her two cubs he had attacked, and killed. The
animal's tusks must have met on his arm, the point
of the smaller teeth being visible between them.
Having made a plentiful breakfast, and being en-
riched by a present of a boarding pike, on which
the ship's names and date of the year were studded
with small nails, my visitor took his leave. His
mother soon afterwards came and gave me abundant
kdo-yen-a's, or thanks, for my attentions to him,
and for the boarding pike, in particular.

Three seals were killed on the ^4th, one of which

togoklatVs hut.

155

was found to be with youngj. The little ib-liau, or
foetus, was covered with very fine hair, resemblin<]j
raw silk in colour. The man to whom it belonged
could not be prevailed upon to skin it, as he intended
to make a delicate feast on its flesh.

I observed on this as on former occasions, that the
heads of the seals being first parboiled, were always
given to the children. Some of the men were making
little ivory models of spears, and I now observed
that this material was cut by continual chopping
with u knife, one end of the ivory resting on a soft
stone, which served as a block. To smooth and
polish the work when finished, a gritty stone is used
as a file, and ':ept constantly wetted with saliva. In
Iligliak's hut I saw a large bag entirely composed of
the skins of salmon, neatly and even ornamentally
sewed together. I found Togorlat dressing two very
dirty little dolls for me, but as slie had made them of
her own accord, and intended them as a present, I had
not the conscience to find fault with her performance.
Close to where she sat, I observed a hole in the snow
entirely filled with hair, which she told me was the
combings of her head, and endeavoured to explain
her reasons for keeping so strange a mess : I failed
in comprehending what she said, but from her man-
ner was convh.ced that there was some superstition
attached to her hoard. Her sick boy had a severe fit
during my stay, from which I recovered him by splash-
ing him with snow water, to the great amazement
of his mother, to whom I explained, as well as I was

hich

156

OLD KETTLE.

able, the efficacy of such treatment during the at-
tacks. The poor woman gave me many thanks, and
appeared to attend very earnestly to my instructions.
On first arriving at the village, old Kettle had
beckoned me to come to his hut, but I had refused, tell-
ing him at the same time that he was a thief. When
I was going away, however, 1 observed a child who was
stationed on the look-out, run in to inform him of it,
and I had not proceeded far when he came hallooing
after me, very thinly clad, and in great agitation. He
brought a tin pot and a piece of iron to assist in his
explanation, and vehemently demanded who had ac-
cused him of robbing me. Kawungut was no sooner
named, with others ofOkotook's family, than the old
man's rage became excessive, and he talked or rather
vociferated in such a high key, as to convince me that
he was abusing them all. As I understood a few
words of his defence, and was already disposed to
believe him innocent, we shook hands, and each
making a long and equally unintelligible speech,
parted as good friends as ever.

The Eskimaux had been complaining for some
days of the ravages of the wolves, whic!i, besides
wounding and killing their dogs, had destroyed a
sledge of skin, and torn and devoured the covering
of a kayak. They had also repeatedly entered the
passages into the huts, when the dogs were confined
there.

It having been supposed that a boarding pike had
been stolen, an officer and some men were sent to

WALRUS KILLED.

157

the
ned

had
t to

the huts to search for it, but they received a most un-
gracious reception from the hulies in particular, who
loudly declared that all the kabloona were thieves,
who had stolen their clothes, the weapons of their
husbands, and every thing they had ; and that amongst
other valuables we had robbed them of all their stone
pots. While this outcry was going on, these poor
creatures seemed quite unconscious that they sat
surrounded by presents of all descriptions, which had
been abundantly heaped on them, and for some of
which they had eagerly proffered their goods. This
quarrel confirmed me in an opinion I was very un-
willing to admit, that when seal's flesh and oil for
the lamps were abundant, no one cared for us, or for
the provisions we had given them ; while, on the
other hand, a day of famine rendered them altogether
as grateful. I should not state this want of proper
feeling, had we not gradually been led to remark it j
for, where people possess so few bad qualities, and so
many good ones, it is painful to be obliged to dis-
cover faults. A wolf was caught, and another shot
from the ship, during the two last days.

We heard, for the first time, of a walrus having
been killed, and I joined a party to go and see it ; but to
our great disappointment we found only large junks
of its flesh and skin. All the men were in a state
of stupidity, resembling intoxication, from excess of
eating. The women were rather better conditioned.
I inquired every where for the head of the walrus,
for which I offered a knife, but could get no informa.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

1.0

I.I

^ -2.2

IL25 i 1.4

2.0

1.8

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO

(716) 872-4503

L17

».

'^'*

^>^

158

ILLNESS OF THE NATIVES.

. :*>■"•

i ii, !

tion about it, until in Okotook's hut I soon disco-
vered by the sulkiness of the men that some one whom
they disliked had been successful, and afterwards
found I was not incorrect in supposing it to be Kettle
who had killed the animal. All the family agreed
in saying, that the head had been thrown into the
sea, which I fully believed, supposing it was so dis-
posed of from some superstitious motive, as being
the first killed in this season ; but no sooner was my
knife produced, than the memory of my friends took
an extraordinary turn, and it was recollected that the
head was somewhere on shore, and that it would
be brought to me.

Captain Parry had a shooting match on the ice.
The mark was a spear at thirty paces distant, and,
amongst some good shots, an arrow was lodged deep
in the wood, for which the marksman received a
knife as the prize. Three bows were broken in the
contest.

During the last two or three days, the natives
had suffered severely from coughs and colds, owing
to the thawing and incessant dropping from their
huts, which during the recent abundance of food
had been overheated by lamps, and rendered so
rotten, that in one of them a woman, who was clear-
ing the snow, fell through the roof. I walked out
to visit the invalids, and found them even worse
than I had expected ; some had lost their voice, and
a few of the most talkative women were so hoarse
as to render speaking painful. One poor man was

THE TIIIRTKENTII WOLF KILLED.

159

bleeding in a stream from the nose, and had an in-
flamed throat, both as I suspected from excessive-
gluttony. I recommended a dry sleeping place, and u
few other simples to the sufferer, and in a short time
had abundance of patients, to whom I prescribed
hot water, plenty of sleep, and very little food ; and
I have no doubt the two first clauses were strictly
attended to, in consequence of inattention to the
third. The flesh heaps on most of the floors, dis-
covered to me that one or two other walruses had
been killed, and even the dogs had their full allow-
ance, which had made them very bold and surly,
several instances occurring of their coming behind
and biting people.

Having on all former visits observed their ex-
cessive timidity, I am led to suppose that hunger
affects Eskimaux dogs differently from others of their
species, as when almost starved they are fearful as
hares, and when well fed acquire courage ; whereas
we know that to make an English dog savage, he is
kept in poor condition. A few of the younger men
were occupied in rebuilding and repairing the snow
houses during a heavy gale and drift, which came on
before we returned, but they remarked that they had
eaten too much to be sensible of the cold.

On the 5th, the last of the thirteen wolves was
caught in a trap made by some of our officers in
imitation of those used by the natives. The poor
Eskimaux were now relieved from a grievous plague,
which it appeared had followed them all along the

h.^*'-/

1 i

160

CHARTS OIJTAINED.

coast ; and their thanks were warmly given on seeing
the last of their tormentors hanging under our
stern.

During the last few days we had been most agreea-
bly employed in obtaining charts of the countries
around us, from Iligliak, and Eewerat, who were our
hydrographers, and appeared to enter into our ideas
with great spirit and judgment. In all essential points
our two informants agreed extremely well. I was
for some time incredulous as to their knowledge of
the position of the cardinal points of the compass,
conceiving that a people who, for weeks or months,
(according to the part of the coast they are living
on) do not see the sun, and again for the same time
have it continually above the horizon, could have
no idea of the east or west, which we Europeans
misname the points of the sun's rising or setting.
1 was ultimately convinced of my error, and from
many concurring circumstances was led to suppose
that the stars, and particularly the constellation Ursa
Major, were their chief guides in this respect.

After a time, our hydrographers on sitting down
to mark a chart, invariably commenced by making
four dots on the paper, and pointing them out as
the positions by which the trending of the coast was
to be regulated. The sum of our information was,
that an extensive sea existed to the northward, and
was open in the summer ; and that in this sea were
several islands, on which the Eskimaux resided, either
as fixed settlements, or for a time during their jour-

PHII.OSOPIIV OF THK XATIVKS.

161

neys along the co<ast, which were performed chiefly
over the ice before the sea opened. The two principal
islands were called Amit-yook and Ig-luo-lik, and
were the birth-places of the greater part of our winter
acquaintance. We acquired by degrees other in-
formation, which I shall hereafter state. I may here
mention, that Repulse Bay is the place distinguished
by the name of Ay-wee-lik, and is also a settlement
of importance.

On the 13th, nearly all the women came in a body
to the ships, complaining that they had neither food
nor fire at home. We relieved them as well as was in
our power ; and, attended by a large company, I ac-
companied them again to the huts, Togorlat hanging
on one arm, and Ilyoomeea (her mother) on the
other, in imitation of what they were told the Ka-
bloona women were accustomed to do. Our walk
was, as usual, enlivened by songs; and the poor
thoughtless creatures, who but an hour before were
in an excess of misery, were now the gayest of the
gay. So singularly happy is the disposition of the
Eskimaux, that when their wants are for a moment
relieved, they forget that they have ever suffered
from hunger, or that they may on the morrow be
again in the same distress. We found some of the
young women at home, and one man only with them ;
this was old Ik-kia-ra, who had been for some time
in such a state as to make us suppose he could not
outlive the winter. His constant posture was lying
on his face between two deer skins ; where he coughed

I (if!

PREPARATIONS I'OR A JOURNEY

St-

i ■ . .1,

jind groaned unceasingly, without exciting compas-
sion from any one of his country-people, except his
son Il-wi-shuk. The ladies, having no one to keep
them in order, were all remarkably frisky, and con-
tinued running and screaming from hut to hut, like
wild creatures ; their mothers, however, did not quite
approve this conduct, and frequently told them to be
quiet ; which had the same effect on them as a similar
injunction would have had on a party of young En-
glish romps ; the girls taking eveiy opportunity of
quizzing the old women, whenever they could do so
unobserved.

The preparations for a journey to explore the
coast were all completed by the 14th. Two sledges
were to carry twenty days' provisions, and a skin
boat ; all of which, with knapsacks and a tent, we
purposed to drag. Our load was, however, found too
heavy for us ; but it was determined to make trial of
the largest sledge for three days, in order to examine
the land near the ships ; and if the contrivance an-
swered, we should still have time sufficient for our
long journey. The day was remarkably fine, and,
forgetting that we had ever read Esop's Fables, it
was agreed that this " one swallow " was to be the
sign of spring.

On thij 1 5th of March, we proceeded towards the
hills to the northward of our winter quarters. A
strong wind arose soon after our starting, and in-
creased to a heavy gale ; the utmost view was bounded
to twenty yards, and every time of resting to take

ACROSS THE ISLAND.

ICS

breath, we all received severe frost bites. At ten,
we arrived at a quantity of grounded ice, directed by
which, we made our way round the head of a bay,
and reached the side of a small hill a little after
eleven. The extreme severity of the weather deter-
mined me on pitching our tent, and waiting until
we could from the rising ground command a view
of our future route. When the tent had been
pitched an hour, and our party had put on additional
clothing, and were all smoking, to promote warmth,
the temperature at our feet only stood at one degree
below Zero, and over head, amongst the smoke, at
seven degrees above : in the outer air it was — 5° ;
which, although of itself sufficiently cold, was ren-
dered doubly piercing by the strength of the wind.
The longer we sat, the colder we became, in spite of
all our care. A deep hole being dug in the snow, I
found that it would be possible, by extending our
excavations, to make a cavern in which we might
pass the night ; for it would have been next to im-
possible to have continued in the tent. Some of the
men were therefore immediately set to work, and
had so good an opportunity of warming themselves,
that our only shovel was lent from one to the other
as a particular favour. By 4 p. m. our cavern was
finished, and of sufficient size to contain us all in a
sitting posture. Making a fire, we managed by its
smoke which had no vent, to raise the temperature to
+ 20°; while outside, it had fallen to — 25^ We
now cleaned our clothes as well as possible from the

M 2

1(>4

A .TOUUNKY

.' i 11

;■ 'I

thick coating of snow-drift, and soon felt compara-
tively comfortable, in a temperature of -|- 15®, to
which our air in the cave had fallen by 8 p. m. ;
when closing the entrance with blocks of snow, we
crept into our blanket-bags, and huddled close to-
gether, to endeavour to procure a little sleep. Our
small dwelling had a very oppressive feel ; and our
uneasiness was not a little augmented by the reflection,
that a spjide alone could liberate us again after a
night's drift of snow ; our roof being two feet thick,
and not of the most secure description, had a toler-
able chance of breaking down on us ; in which case,
confined as we were in our bags, and lying almost
upon each other, we should have had no power of ever
extricating ourselves.

At daylight on the iGth, we found the tempera-
ture at + 26** until we dug out the entrance, when
it fell to + 15°; while outside, it was — 25o.

At 9, A. M. the gale was unabated, the weather and
drift continuing as severe as ever. The tent was half
buried in the snow ; and I therefore set all hands to
work at digging out the sledge ; but it was so deeply
sunk, that we could not reach it, and in the at-
tempt our faces and extremities were most painfully
frost-bitten. With all these difficulties before us,
Mr. Palmer and myself consulted together as to
whether it would be most prudent to endeavour to
pass another night in our present precarious situation,
or, while we were yet able to walk, to make an attempt
to reach the ships, which we supposed were about six

ACROSS TIIK ISLAM).

in. J

miles from us. Wo could not see a yard of our road,
yet to remain appeared worse than to go forward ;
the last plan was therefore decided on. Having placed
all our luggage in the tent, and erected a small flag
over it, we set out, carrying a few pounds of bread, a
little rum, and a spade. The wind now being in our
backs, we walked very briskly, and having an occa-
sional glimpse of a very faint sun through the drift,
managed to steer a tolerable course, but evidently not
over the same land as on the preceding day. We
ascended one gentle acclivity, and afterwards had a
long run down a slope, at the foot of which we came
to grounded ice, and observed the tracks of Eskimaux
men and dogs a little before noon ; but these were so
confused, that we were at a loss which marks to follow.
Not knowing where to go, we wandered amongst the
heavy hummocks of ice, and suffering from cold, fa-
tigue, and anxiety, were soon completely bewildered.
Several of our party now began to exhibit symptoms of
that horrid kind of insensibility which is the prelude to
sleep. They all professed extrem' willingness to do
what they were told, in order to keti in exercise, but
none obeyed ; on the contrary, they reeled about like
drunken men. The faces of several were severely
frost-bitten, and some had for a considerable time lost
sensation in their fingers and toes j yet they made
not the slightest exertion to rub the parts affected,
and even discontinued their general custom of warn-
ing each other on observing a discoloration of the
skin.

I i!

I- !

IGO

A .lOUKNKY

Mr. Palmer employed the people in building a
snow wall, ostensibly as a shelter from the wind, but
in fact to give them exercise, when standing still must
have proved fatal to men in our circumstances. My
attention was exclusively directed to Serjeant Speck-
man, who having been repeatedly warned that his
nose was frozen, had paid no attention to it, owing
to the state of stupefaction into which he had fallen.
The frost-bite had now extended over one side of his
face, which was frozen as hard as a mask ; the eye-
lids were stiff, and one corner of the upper lip so
drawn up as to expose the teeth and gums. My
hands being still warm, I had the happiness of re-
storing the circulation, after which I used all my en-
deavours to keep the poor fellow in motion ; but he
complained sadly of giddiness and dimness of sight,
and was so weak as to be unable to walk without as-
sistance. His case was so alarming, that I expected
every moment he would lie down never to rise again.
Our prospect now became every moment more gloomy,
and it was but too probable that four of our party
would be unable to survive another hour. Mr. Pal-
mer, however, endeavoured as well as myself to cheer
the people up ; but it was a faint attempt, as we had
not a single hope to give them. Every piece of ice,
or even of small rock, or stone, was now supposed to
be the ships, and we had great difficulty in prevent-
ing the men from running to the different objects
which attracted them, and consequently losing them-
selves in the drift. In this state, while Mr. Palmer

ACKUS.S lllK ISLAND.

I or

was I'liniiiug luuiul us to warm hiinselt', he siuUlenly
pitched on a new beaten track, and as exercise was in-
dispensable, we determined on following it wherever
it might lead us.

Having taken the serjeant under my coat, he re-
covered a little, and we moved onwards, when to our
infinite joy we found that the path led to the ships,
at which we arrived in about ten minutes after. I
waited immediately on Captain Parry to remove his
anxiety on our account, and then proceeded to my
own ship.

One man had two of his fingers so badly frost-
bitten as to lose a good deal of the Hesh of the upper
ends, and we were for many days in fear that he
would be obliged to have them amputated. Carr,
the quarter-master, who had been the most hardy
while in the air, fainted twice on coming below, and
every one had severe frost-bites in different parts
of the body, which recovered after the usual loss of
skin in these cases.

Thus ended an excursion, in which for thirty
hours we were exposed to the most constantly severe
weather which had been experienced during the
winter, the thermometer on the ice near the ships
having stood at 32** below zero the whole night. All
thoughts of the long expedition were now given up
until a more advanced season.

I (is

\ sri'KHsriTioN,

■.(tm.

: I

» , ^ : 1

4 .
► ■

The pile, which continued unubuted until the ISth,
hud not been much more favourable to the natives
than to oiu'selves, for it prevented their sealing, and
they now came in numbers to beg for food and water.

Amongst other women who came on board was
young Ib-bt-kuk, round whose neck I found sus-
pended an old broken spear-head of nuisk ox horn ;
whilst I was observing it attentively she endeavoured
to hide it in her hair, and with cries of alarm said she
should die if I touched it. By degrees, however, 1
pacified her, and was at length pei*mitted to examine
this extraordinary charm, but could not induce her
to part with it, from her dreading that her father
would kill her mother and herself if she returned
home without it. Visitors to the huts found all the
men absent, and the women at high romps. Four-
teen of them voluntarily exhibited some very curious
dances and contortions for nearly three hours, till at
length their gestures became indecent and wanton
in the highest degree. This was the first instance of
any exhibitions which had the slightest indelicate
tendency, and might be accounted for by their being
uncontrolled by the presence of their husbands. As
a proof that tlicy were perfectly conscious of the im-
propriety of their conduct, a little boy was stationed
as sentinel at the door, and a woman occasionally
ran out to see if any of the men were returning
home.

On the 20th I found every one at the village
in the highest spirits, old 11-yoomia excepted, who

A (OM KHI.

100

was inoiuninjr over one of her sons. This hopeful
young man liatl eaten so ahundantly of walrus flesh
that his stomach was become hard and swollen, and
he lay naked and grunting between his deer-skins.
Even though he acknowledged that lie was full to
the throat, his tender mother continued, during the
whole time of my stay, to supply him with small pieces
of meat and blubber to relieve his pain ! I found To-
gorlat busily stringing a fishhook of her own manu-
facture, which she had no sooner completed, than
calling Mr. Richards, she offered it as an ornament
for the collar of his Newfoundland dog, requesting in
return a lock of the animal's hair to suspend round the
neck of her sick boy, on receiving it, she expressed
the most lively joy at the acquisition of so valuable a
charm. I now was enabled, for the first time, to
observe the way in which the seals* skins were pre-
pared, several of the old women being busily occu-
pied in depriving them of the hair. Although the
hides had been previously well soaked in urine, the
women's tongues were used to clean their scraping
knives.

As universal good humour prevailed, and Okotook,
contrary to custom, was not sulky, a party of women
were easily assembled in his hut, which was by far
the best and largest, to sing. Eleven of them col-
lected for this purpose, and Okotook, as master of
the ceremonies, placed himself in the centre of a
circle which they formed.

He now moved slowly round, with lifted elbows
and closed hands. His eyes were nearly shut, and

170

A LANCK.

. ' ' ,

I li <

ijii

1 1 ' '

ill a sharp discordant voice he repeated " Oo-yee-oo-
ySe," several times, at the same moment showing his
teeth. This I construed into a kind of invitation to
the ladies, who simultaneously burst into the usual
chorus of " Amna-a, ya, a ya,** with their eyes
closed, and all standing in a perfectly upright posture.
The hands of many were joined under the front flaps
of the jacket.

Okotook; in the mean time, continued humming
to himself, and swinging his head and arms alter-
nately from side to side in a heavy manner, jumping
occasionally on one leg and kicking the other as
high as it would reach. This figure he enlivened
at intervals by most discordant screams, while his
inexpressibly wild countenance, and long tangled
locks hanging over his face, gave him an air of sa-
vageness which I am unable to describe. Two
acts, of about ten minutes each, were occupied as
above ; and the man being fatigued gave up his place
to another. The women were now asked to perform
some tricks, and Iligliak stepped forward to jump
from her knees to her feet with a rapidity almost
amounting to flying, when her ponderous and puffed
out boots are considered. Each woman then in tuni,
and sometimes two together, in diflerent tones, re-
peated the words as in the note*, without drawing
breath. We had not before heard these expressions.

* Ta-ba-ta-ba

Ta-ba-ta-ba

Kl-ba-khi

Kr-ba-khi

Kl-bQd-loo-ba

KX-bud-Ioo-ba

K&i'-bo

Kai-bo.

■3

t-5

* !|-

A DANCi:.

171

and from our afterwards finding them in every wo-
man's mouth at merry-making, I was inclined to
suppose that they had some mystical meaning, as
they were never used in ordinary conversation. It is
not improbable that they may be words of another lan-
guage, and I note them in hopes that, some one who
is curious in these matters may discover their origin.

Affairs were in this merry train, when unfor-
tunately, one of the party of the kabloona asked for
the closing dance of the preceding day. The men
laughed, but the women looked very serious, con-
ceiving such a request as a breach of confidence.
They instantly began in a hurried manner to leave
the hut, and in half a minute the whole party was
dispersed. Shek-o6byoo offered his services, with ten
dogs in his sledge, to take myself, another officer, and
a frozen wolf, on board, and we set off in high style.

I learnt that some officers and men had seen a
bear from the S. £. point, at about the distance of
half a mile, cantering towards a small pool of open
water. This was the third which had been seen in
the course of the winter.

On the S2d, Mr. Elder saw two hares, and suc-
ceeded in killing one of them, which weighed eight
pounds and a half, and was in better case than many
we had killed in the summer. As no thaw had com-
menced, and the lands in every direction were deeply
covered with hard frozen snow, I could not conceive
on what the creature had fattened.

In the afternoon. Kettle, who returned from an

172

KETTLE AND THE SPIllIT.

f': I -

unsuccessful walrus hunt, came on board for rest and
food. While eating I observed that he became agi-
tated, and frequently paused, although very hungry.
At length, in answer to my inquiries, he said that
Torngak (a spirit) prevented him from eating by
being seated on the opposite side of the cabin, and
making faces at him. He now asked my permission
to drive the tormentor away, which being granted,
he raised a shout like the bellow of a bull, but with
a more gurgling sound, which was heard all over the
ship ; and trembling a little, held up his hand near
his mouth, when collecting his breath he blew on the
tips of his fingers as if driving away a fly, or some
particles of dust. This blast was sufficient to dismiss
his tormentor, and he began again to eat with great
satisfaction. The poor savage assuredly believed
that he saw some supernatural object, the cabin
being rather dark, for nothing could induce him to
repeat his cry, or to blow again on his fingers, his
constant answer being, " I don't see him."

Two or three trifling instances of dishonesty had
of late been discovered, and the offenders had been
banished the ships with disgrace. I was now sorry
to find that old Kettle was unquestionably one of
the guilty, and that he had purloined an iron spoon,
with which he was eating pea-soup, from the Fury.
The weather on this day being very thick, and several
Eskimaux having crowded under the awning, the
old man managed to get down to my cabin unob-
served, announcing as he entered, that he had brought

NEW MANNKR Ol' XUHSINC;.

me, as a present, tlie delicate skin of the foetus of
a seal, which he had secreted under his jacket. Con-
sidering this as a brihe, I refused it, but without
giving a reason, and sent him on deck, not however
until he had voluntarily acknowledged the theft,
and entered into a long protestation of his inno-
cence ; again offering the skin if I would speak to
Pari about him. Having observed this kind of
cunning in two or three instances, I began to suspect
that a present was rarely offered, unless as an ex-
tenuation of some fault previously committed.

The weather continuing very stormy, and the
hunting having ceased, it became our duty, as usual,
to provision the Eskimaux. The women have a very
curious way of feeding the young children, which
are carried in their hoods. Without being obliged
to use their hands, or even to take the infant from
its nest, the mother contrives by a sudden jerk and
twist of the shoulders, to bring her burthen before
her, so that as the jacket turns, the child is thrown
nearly on its back, with the face looking upwards;
the parent then stoops and supplies the little one
until it is satisfied, from he^ own mouth, in the man-
ner of birds feeding their young ; a good upright
shake then puts all to rights, and the inhabitant of
the hood lies coiled away out of sight, safe from the
influence of the cold. We had for some days been
much amused by young Arna-lo6-a, who having
had her face washed, and her hair ornamented with
a few buttons and some scarlet cloth, gave herself

174

BEEF STOI.EN.

l6S?|;j

W '

!i i

all the airs of an experienced coquette, craning up
her neck, and affecting to twinkle her eyes in a
most engaging manner. An occasional smile or
condescending look was vouchsafed on the by-
standers, in order to exhibit her teeth, which had
been subjected to the discipline of an old tooth-brush.
The husband paraded her about with great satisfac-
tion, while a large party of women were mimick-
ing them both, and imitating Arnalooa's toss of the
head. I mention this little anecdote of an Arctic
belle, as a fresh proof that an innocent love of ad-
miration and finery is not confined to Europe and
other civilized countries, though the treasures of
the toilet are widely different ; a musk-ox tooth, a
sailor's button, or a nail, pendant from the pigtails,
being as much prized as a set of diamonds would be
in England.

A most shocking theft was on this evening com-
mitted by a man and his little son ; which was no
less than the last piece of English corned beef, be-
longing to the midshipmen. Had it been an eighteen-
pound carronade, or even one of the anchors, the
thieves would have been welcome to it ; but to pur-
loin English beef, in such a country, was quite
unpardonable. The rogues were seen making off
with their prize, and a general chase was given ;
but owing to the gale and drift then blowing, and
to a feint practised by dropping a piece of fat, and
kicking snow over it, as if the whole was buried,
the beef was never again seen. Ayookitt and Nan-

GEOGRAPHICAI, INFORMATION

175

naoo slept on board, in my cabin, and gave inc much
interesting information : amongst other things, I
learnt that Nannaoo was bom at a place called Noo-
wo5k, which, from the charts obtained, we had
every reason to suppose was the northern shore
of the Wager River. In this country both black
and white bears are numerous. Rein-deer and
musk-oxen are also common in large herds, and the
lakes and rivers abound in fish. The KablSe, a-ghio,
which I suppose to be the wolverine, is also found
in the mountains : the Eskimaux esteem it good
eating. My informant had some traditionary story
about the kabloona, although, neither himself nor
his father, who died while he was a boy, had ever
seen them. My imperfect knowledge of the lan-
guage at this time prevented my learning more
than that brass kettles, beads, and iron, were ob-
tained by Noowook people, who travelled to the south-
ward, and from them again found a sale amongst the
northern tribes. Ayookitt, who was born at Ay-wt-
lik (Repulse Bay), confirmed what I had heard from
others, that his country produced the same animals
for food as Noowook, with the exception of the black
bear. Great interest had been for some days ex-
cited in consequence of information received from
Iligliak, of a large sea existing three days to the
westward of Repulse Bay. Of this she drew charts,
which were acknowledged to be correct by those
who had visited the place ; Ayookitt confirming all
she had said, and in nearly the same words. It ap-

i|;;hi|i

17G

(;f.oouaphical information.

pears that a small stream, which is luinavigable even
for the light canoes of the Eskimaux, discharges
itself into Repulse Bay : this run of water is from a
large lake, one day's journey inland, whither the
natives annually resort in great numbers, and pitch
their tents on its banks. This visit being for the
jpui'pose of fishing, the men take their kayaks and
oatch abundance of salmon. The lake extends one
day's journey, from east to west, at which end a
second stream, similar to that communicating with
Repulse Bay, finds its way to the sea, which is one
day's walk west of it. Beyond this sea no land is
seen in any direction, but the coast to the right
and left is continued as far as they know of food being
afforded to the Eskimaux.

It is a remarkable coincidence, that the officer
who was despatched by Middleton, to examine the
Wager River, reported, that from the mountains,
about fifteen leagues above Deer Sound, he saw a
large sea with islands in it, to the northward ; and
the position assigned by them to this water, exactly
agrees with that laid down in Iligliak's chart. To
support still farther this favourable idea of the
proximity of a western sea, it seems that when Cap-
tain Parry, in the autumn, was examining the upper
end of Lyon Inlet, he one evening sent Messrs.
Bushnan and Ross to take a look round from a high
hill, and on their return was informed that they
had seen a sea and head-lands to the westward :
that scarcely expecting, however, to find one in that

GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION.

177

direction, he conceived they were mistaken, althougli
Mr. Slierer and liiniself, fVoiii the beach, observed a
luminous appearance in the same direction, like a
faint ice blink. These circumstances, when put to-
gether, had an air of probability, which in every
subsequent conversation with the Eskimaux became
more and more evident. In a cliart of Iligliak's,
which I have in my possession, she connected ♦ >
land, from our winter quarters to the N.W. sea,
rounding and terminating the northern extremity of
this part of America, by a large island, and a strait
of sufficient magnitude to afford a safe passage for
the ships. This little North- West Passage set us
all castle-building, and we already fancied the worst
part of our voyage over ; or, at all events, that be-
fore half the ensuing summer was past, we should
arrive at Akkoolee, the Eskimaux settlement on
the western shore. On all these interesting heads,
my friend Ayookitt stood an excellent cross-ex-
amination, which left no doubt on the minds of
his hearers as to the truth of what had been ad-
vanced.

!i>ii<

ill'

178

NATIVES CHANUK THEIll STATION,

•: ^ 'I

CHAPTER V.

Natives diangc their station— Gluttony — Deserted liuts —
The first thaw — Arrival of birds — Land ex}H>dition — Snow
bh'ndness — Snow storm — Return to the ships — Death of a
seaman — Deer arc seen — Singular phenomenon — Ganal com-
pleted — The gardens — Appearance of the island — Death of
two seamen — Ice breaks up, and we leave the island.

As it was now a week since any seals or walruses
had been taken, and as the weather had been very
cold and windy, the distresses of the Eskimaux were
extreme. Several men and women stopped all day
at the ships, and my friend Nannaoo remained during
the whole night. He hastened away very early in
the morning, without taking any leave, and ran all
the way to the huts, at wliich we observed the people
in a great bustle. Seven or eight men came down
on their way to the water to hunt, but said nothing
about what was going on ; at length Mr. Sherer,
who had walked out early, came and informed us,
that about thirty men, women, and children, had
taken their goods, and departed with sledges over
the ice, to the westward, without having ever given
us the slightest hint of their intentions.

On hearing the news, I hurried off to the huts,
and found them broken, dirty, and forsaken by all
except some old women, and the oldest man, Akiara,
who was sitting alone upon a skin in one of the treble-
domed huts, without lamp or food, and having no
shelter but the bare icy walls, the former inmates

NATIVKS C'HANdK THKIR STATION.

179

IP' no

lijiviiijif cirricd away all their furniture. It was
painful to sec this poor creature, left in a situation
which to an European would appear the extreme of
misery, yet in good spirits, chuckling and laughing,
utterly insensible to the wretchedness of his situation.
His old wife was down at the ships to procure food
for him, and, as I afterwards found, was dancing on
deck, in no hurry to return. Kettle and Ewerat,
with their flimilies, remained. Poor Togorlat was
the only person who had a lamp alight to melt snow,
hut she had not sufficient oil for more than two
wicks. In spite of the desolation and want which
prevailed, the women were in. the highest spirits at
the huts, as well as on board, and from the expe-
rience I have had of both sexes, I am confident that
starvation tends greatly to promote merriment and
good humour with an Eskimaux, although any of
my countrymen can vouch for its having a very con-
trary effect on an Englishman. Some biscuit which
I carried with me was actually bolted by the chil-
dren, when given to each in its turn ; yet not one of
them, although literally half-starved, attempted to
push himself forward for his portion, but patiently
waited until it was put into his hand.

I found on my arrival on board, that five old
women who had come to the ship to procure food
for their families, were dancing on deck, as if they
were the happiest creatures in the world; kicking
their legs as high as their heads, making faces and
screaming with all their might. These worthy matrons

180

NATIVES ADUirX.

had oaten a bucket full of bread-dust, and were sup
plied witli shares for those at lionie ; but in their
uiirtli they quite forgot their errand, and when
reminded of it by me, instead of taking their de-
parture, each was determined on dancing over again
all the figures performed during my absence, before
she would take leave. In the evening we saw four
men adrift in the strait upon a piece of ice, from
which they could not at that time have a chance of
escaping. I went to the S. E. point, intending to
launch a boat and go to their assistance, but the sea
was too full of young ice to render it possible t<»
reach them. They were at least two miles from tlie
shore, but happily the wind and tide were in theii
favour ; and when the night set in with rain and snow,
we saw them driving towards the fast bay ice. Witli
a glass I had observed a large space on their float
covered with the blood of a seal or walrus, so that
they had abundance of the food most congenial to
their palates, and as the cold was a little above zero,
they could manage very well for one night. It was
only to be wondered at that we had never before
seen any of these people in the same dangerous situa-
tion, as from the daring way in which they ventured
on the moving ice, such accidents might have been
more frequently expected. Three men, who walked
past the ships after an unsuccessful hunt, told us
that their comrades had been adrift from before noon,
yet they appeared quite unconcerned about them.
Some officers who came late from the village, in-

(ii.riioNY.

ISl

lornieil me that Nanuaoo liad not, as wc suspected,
accompanied Okotook, but hud returned while tliey
were there riom an inisi/ccessful search after seals.
He tohl them he had no home, no skhis to sleep on,
and no food ; and that hv knew not where to pass
the night. All the presents he had received from
us had gone with Okotook, who, amongst other
things, had laid claim to his hoarditig pike, and thus
having secured the poor lad's property, he had turned
him adrift. My protege wandered about the huts
dressed in an old sailor's jacket and comforter, and 1
was sorry that he did not come for his warm birth
before my Hre, to which, and some supper, he would
have been welcome as usual.

We found on the .'Jrd, that the party who had
been adrift had killed two large walruses, which
they had carried home during the early part of the
night. No one therefore came to the ships, all rc-
iriaining in the huts to gormandize. We found the
men lying under their deer skins, and clouds of
steam rising from their naked bodies. From Kooi-
littiuk, I learnt a new Eskimaux luxury : he had
eaten until he was drunk, and every moment fell
asleep, with a flushed and burning face, and his
mouth open : by his side sat Arnalooa, who was
attending her cooking pot, and at short intervals
awakened her spouse, in order to cram as much as
was possible of a large piece of half-boiled flesh into
liis mouth, with the assistance of her fore finger, and
having filled it quite full, cut off the morsel close to

" 7W3*w*anyi; '"j^ -,

182

SOME NATIVES UETURN.

"W*

•i}^4 [•

. «

lliij;! f

it :

^ Id

his lips. This he slowly chewed, and as soon as a
small vacancy became perceptible, this was filled again
by a lump of raw blubber. During this operation
the happy man moved no part of him but his jaws,
not even opening his eyes ; but his extreme satisfac-
tion was occasionally shown by a most expressive
grunt, whenever he enjoyed sufficient room for the
passage of sound. The drippings of the savoury
repast had so plentifully covered his face and neck,
that I had no hesitation in determining that a man
may look more like a beast by over-eating, than by
drinking to excess. The women having fed all their
better halves to sleep, and not having neglected
themselves, had now nothing to do but to talk and
beg as usual.

Amongst other proofs of ingratitude in these poor
savages, there were several who this day affected to
despise the bread-dust and oil, which had recently
saved the lives of themselves and infants ; and even
went so far as to complain of the small allowance
given them ; plainly intimating that we were in duty
bound to maintain them, whenever by idleness, ex-
cessive gluttony, or ill success, they were destitute of
food. As I was coming out, Pootooarloo's two wives
came in from the absent party to beg for flesh. They
received as much food as they could manage to eat,
but when they solicited contributions for their hus-
band, the portions were very small, and unwillingly
bestowed, by which it would appear that since the
division of the tribe, separate interests prevailed,

! it.

somp: natives return.

183

ti as ii
[ again
jration
s jaws,
atisfac-
iressive
for the
lavoury
I neck,
a man
lian by
ill their
glected
ilk and

se poor

scted to

ecently

id even

owance

in duty

Bss, ex-

itute of

wives

They

to eat,

ir hus-

illingly

ice the

cviiiled,

-1

and that the usual partnerships were dissolved. From
all I could learn, I had great reason to suspect that
Okootook, in some fit of sulkiness or disappointed
avarice, had been the cause of the recent change of
abode. There was one benefit, at all events, derived
from the breaking up of the tribe, which was, that all
the detected thieves were of the absent party, with the
exception of old Kettle. As the time for refitting
the ships was now fast approaching, we should not
have been sorry if the whole tribe had left us; for
although in idle times they had lightened many a
tedious hour, yet, from their habits of crowding the
decks, they were by no means desirable spring visitors,
while duty was going forward, and the people were
busily engaged in fitting for the summer.

Pootooarloo had heard so good a report of the
flesh-pots at the deserted village, that on the 4th,
he came back with wives, dogs and baggage, built a
new snow hut, and again established himself. The
people of property did not, however, quite meet his
wishes ; for, during the whole of the first day, he
neither received a piece of flesh, or even blubber
enough for his wives to light their lamps with. Iligliak,
also, walked in with her little boy to obtain food, but
only procured as much as herself and child could eat.

The snow, on such parts of the ship as were
painted black, thawed in small spots, at mid-day :
the thermometer was at zero, in the shade. This
was the first time of our having observed the most
trifling indication of the returning warmth of the sun.

M^f

1:^

'%""

1 ;'

; ii

J! ;;* |!

184

FINAL DEPARTURE.

The Strait being filled by a quantity of heavy
loose ice, which the calm weather could not dislodge,
the Eskimaux were again in difficulty ; on the 10th,
there was not even a lamp alight ; twenty-five grown
persons and six small children had, in six days, eaten
and wasted every part of two walruses, which, from
the known bulk of these animals, must have weighed
nearer twenty than fifteen cwt. ! News arrived that
the distant party had killed five or six seals, by
watching their holes in the ice, and that old Kettle,
with his own and two other families, had hurried off
to the land of plenty. The remaining few came
daily in a miserable state, and partook of our so
lately despised bread-dust, the poor thoughtless crea-
tures still fancying that it was their right.

On the 12th, the observatory was pulled down,
and out of its wreck I was enabled to supply a dozen
men with wood for a bow or a spear each. The
women all told us with a sorrowful, and no doubt
sincere look of grief, (for they were going where
they had little chance of procuring any thing to eat),
that on the morrow they should take their departure.
We therefore made a general distribution of presents,
and in return received locks of their hair, neatly
plaited.

On the 13th, a party walked out to witness
the departure of our winter acquaintances. Two
sledges stood ready packed with skins and house-
hold furniture, to a yard in height. Tin pots,
bottles, and jars, hung dangling all round the sides

FINAL DEl'AllTUllE.

185

of the heap, while knives, pieces of iron, and wood,
filled up the chinks. The smallest children stowed
in deer skins, were tied up and arranged like bun-
dles on the top of the load. The transparent win-
dows of fresh-water or lake ice were also to be car-
ried off, as the new settlement was on the sea, and
no others could be obtained. The two team of dogs
seemed quite aware that they were to perform a long
day's journey, and were impatient to set out, lifting
their noses to the sky, and all howling in most me-
lancholy concert for some minutes; they were kept
in order by the young boys and a girl, all of whom
handled the long whip with surprising dexterity, and
with as much satisfaction to themselves as torment
to the dogs, which at len;;th commenced fighting
with such fury, that the head and ears of several were
covered with blood. The signal of departure being
given, the vehicles were shot down the slope of the
hill with great speed and spirit. The women walked
briskly on with the men, and the whole party was in
the highest glee. One man paid exclusive atten-
tion to each sledge, in order to see that nothing fell,
and also to flog the dogs, a ceremony which is
seldom omitted, whether necessary or not. We had
not proceeded far when we saw two dark spots on
the distant ice, and I learnt that poor old Ak-yara
and Kawungut's mother Eewitko, who could not be
less than seventy years of age, had been sent off at
day-light to find their way as they could. Had either

:1F

186

AGED WOMAN.

<• i

i'l,

of these poor old people fallen into one of the nu-
merous deep fissures which we found in the ice, they
would have been unable to extricate themselves, and
must have fallen a prey to bears or wolves, or if
spared such torments, must have been frozen to
death. We accompanied the natives about a couple
of miles on their road, and then left them ; our part-
ing was ludicrously pathetic, for they all pretended
to cry, saying, that they should never see us again ;
unless indeed they had nothing to eat, when they
would come, a family at a time, and pass the day and
night on board with me. We could just discern the
distant huts, which, as I was informed by Mr. Bird
who visited them, were situated about ten miles from
the ships in the centre of the inlet. At the middle
of their journey the travellers came up with the old
man, who, leaning on a staff, walked with great dif-
ficulty; he was now therefore permitted to ride.
The old woman had vigorously outwalked him by
above a mile, and was still fresh. Some idea may
be formed of her strength, when I mention that she
had a great grandson eight years of age.

The men were all absent from the huts, watching
seal holes ; while the women were busy making
boots, gloves, &c., which they would have sold, had
they not been informed by the new comers that the
market was more favourable at the ships. Oo-mtng,
the wife of the man who stole the beef, was all
attention and civility ; in the mean time picking

DESERTED HUTS.

187

Mr. Bird's pocket of his handkerchief. He however
found it again, which made the lady very merry and
witty on the subject of her own roguery.

Two families yet remained behind, as the sledges
could not stow their effects, and on our walk back to
the ships, they accompanied us. Togorlat, who was
of the number, brought her sick child, and that he
might not be in the way, or in mischief, he was tied
by a rope-yarn to the rudder chains, from whence
he struggled and kicked for freedom, like a young
puppy dog.

I had several times, in my rambles through the
world, seen huts which 1 imagined could not be
equalled in point of wretchedness of appearance ;
but I was yet to learn that of all miserable places on
earth, a snow village recently deserted is the most
gloomy. The huts, when viewed from without,
glisten beneath the rays of a spring sun, with a
brilliancy which dazzles and pains the eye, but the
contrast within is therefore the more striking. The
roofs melted into icicles, and coated with smoke,
arches broken and falling from decay; the snow
seats, floors, and partitions covered with every kind
of filth and rubbish, bones, broken utensils, and scraps
of skins, form altogether the most deplorable picture,
while the general air of misery is tenfold augmented
by the strong glare of light which shoots through
the hole once occupied by a window.

For two or three days the ships' companies had
been occupied in cutting a trench round the vessels,

( ■

-r-L' ,.'*-

188

GREEDINKSS OF THE NATIVES.

st^

*'.

r} ,'■■

'■a. ;{ !

MiiMi

in order that they might rise to their hearings pre-
vious to our beginning to work on the holds. On
tliis day, after a good sally, the Hecla rose like a cork
from the ice which had held her down ; and was
found in 191 days to have altered her draught six
inches and a half.

Scarcely a day had passed of late without a visit
from the Eskimaux, who, having taken no seals for
above a week, were pinched with hunger. It not
unfrequently happened, that women with children at
their backs walked to the ships and back again in one
day (a distance of about twenty miles), to obtain a
little bread-dust. The most indefatigable beggars of
either sex ceased to ask for wood, iron, or any thing
but food, which we, from the frugality necessarily
attendant on our situation, could but ill afford to
give. We soon found that some of the people had
immense proportions given them in consequence of
their general acquaintance, and because they were
as importunate after a full allowance as if they had
eaten nothing for a month. My friend Ayokitt was
an instance of this ; for he one day came from the
Fury, his face covered with crums and oil, and
so full, that he was obliged to sleep in my cabin for
an hour or two to recover himself; yet his eyes were
no sooner opened, than in the usual monotonous
manner, he repeatedly cried tii-moo-a (food), as if
extremely hungry. I refused to supply hi»^, and in
high dudgeon he went to the midshipmen , who be-
lieving him iU want, gavo hnri such a feast as to

THE FIRST THAW.

IHJI

send him once more to sleep. On awaking he again
asked for food, but meetinjr with no more in the
Hecla, went to the Fury, where, as Captain Parry
inforaied me, he continued to eat during the whole
day. This little anecdote will serve for the whole
tribe, old and young, male and female.

The poor neglected dogs were more to be pitied
than their masters, for no one fed them, and 1 verily
believe that they had not made half a dozen meals
during the winter ; yet were they worked as much,
and thrashed as continually, as if they enjoyed abund-
ance of food, and were in a condition to bear anv
thing. Owing to the voracity of these animals T
lost both my tame foxes, which I had carefully ke]>t
for above six months. The cage of one being toni
open, he made his escape in such fear as never t(^
return ; the other had both her legs broken, and was
otherwise so much hurt, that I had her killed.

Mr. Crawford, who had been occupied in preparing
a little garden for the Fury, found an Eskimaux
grave, from whence he took the skull. He also dug
up a quantity of little bent pieces of wood, resembling
the ribs of a kayak, and having holes through them,
which appeared as if a boat had been buried also.
Can it be possible that the Eskimaux ever inter thcii
dead in canoes as is done by tribes of Indians on the
north-west coast of America ?

Although the sun did not appear on the 3rd, yc<
the temperature was at 42. and 40. A general t)ia\'
now took place for the first time, and a few houi^

• I

190

ARRIVAL OF BIRDS.

?■

■I

enabled us to judge of its rapid progress : the tops
of the hills exhibiting a speckled appearance, in con-
sequence of the exposure of such rocky points as had
been but lightly covered with snow. A flock of
fifteen ducks*, a grouse, two gulls, a raven, and
five snow buntins, were seen in the course of the day,
and three of the latter were killed. Their plumage
was beautiful ; the black of the wings, and a small
cream-coloured horseshoe-shaped mark on the breast,
affording a delicate contrast to the white of the body.
The buds of the saxifrage, on which they appeared
to have fed, had tinged the heads, beaks, and necks
of a faint blush or pink colour. It was almost a
sin to destroy birds so like our robins in their fami-
liarity and confidence in man, yet, as our consciences
were easily bribed by any new food, we ate and
found them fat and very sweet.

For some days the sea had been open to a con-
siderable distance during the prevalence of off-shore
winds. The season appeared to be improving, and
it was determined that on the morrow I should set
out along the coast. In fact, the temperature had
been such as to have warranted our starting a week
earlier, though not sufficient even at noon, except
on occasional days, to thaw ice, or to afford us a
draught of water, without which we could not travel ;

r i-i

* It may to those who do not really know what sensations the
first appearance of the return of animals and warmth have upon
tlie minds of men mIio have passed a dreary winter, seem ridi-
culous that we should count the birds.

LAND EXPKDITION.

H)I

■i

and as we were to carry twenty days* provisions, it
v/as not in our power to take much wood for thawing
spow. Each of my party was supplied with a pair of
snow shoes, and we carried on our sledges a tent to
be spread on four boarding pikes, and of sufficient size
for us to stow in while in a sitting posture. Our
knapsacks contained warm clothing, and a blanket
formed into a bag, and each person had an Eskimaux
suit of warm deer skins to sleep in. Our whole load
amounted to 1200 lbs., of which each man drew
1 *2(3lbs., and Mr. Palmer and myself 95 lbs. a piece.

LAND EXPEDITION.

As it is not my intention to give in my private
journal an official report of an extremely uninterest-
ing journey, I shall here observe, that I have ren-
dered the account as short as possible. My only
reason indeed for at all inserting it, is to give an
idea of what the " genial month of May'* is, in the
polar regions.

We left the ships on the evening of the 8th, and
having walked four hours, the time we allowed for
each period of travelling, pitched our tent for the
night. A second advance of four hours brought us
on the forenoon of the 9th to the point of the dividing
strait, which I named after Mr. Hoppner, and on
which we rested until the evening. The weather
was extremely cold, and water could only be pro-

;

jf)a

REIN-DEKU.

•I»'

(I ':

I !

cured by thawing. The clearness of the day ad-
mitted of* our taking the requisite observations to de-
termine the situation of our position, which 1 named
after my old travelling companion, Belford. In the
evening we entered on the heavy-grounded ice in the
strait, so as to cross the narrowest part, for a par-
ticular point of which we had taken the bearings.
Loaded as we were, it was with the greatest difficulty
we made our way amongst and over the hummocks ;
ourselves and sledges taking some very unpleasant
tumbles. It required two hours and a half to cross
the ice, although the distance was not two miles, and
we then landed on a snuill island when^ we passed
the night. In the strait we observed the tracks of
wolves and foxes ; we also saw the foot- prints of a
young bear, and those of its mother were found on a
small isle adjoining that on which we slept. Several
islands and shoals lay in the strait — these were named
Bird's isles.

The morning of the 10th brought no abatement
of the cold northerly gale, and on starting we crossed
a second strait of ice of a mile in width, and then
proceeded along shore to the N.E. Our road lay
over extremely irregular ground covered with steep
ridges of snow. Ten deer were seen at different
times, but so exceedingly timid that we had no
chance of approaching them.

When in the evening we pursued our way, a so-
litary deer joined us, and regulating his pace by ours,
trotted near us for above a mile. He came two or

SNOW BLINDNESS.

193

three times within gunshot, but esi-aped u.-hurt.
Three others afterwards tantalised us for above an
hour by wheeling round our party at full speed, just
out of range. Our walking time having expired, we
gladly tented, for we were so cold from being ex-
posed on a hill-side to a northerly gale at a tem-
perature of 18, that it was with difficulty we unlashed
our sledges. Before midnight the thermometer fell
to 12.

Our forenoon's walk on the 11th brought us to
the head of a handsome bay, where we pitched our
tent. At noon the thermometer was 22. Notwith-
standing the care which had been taken by covering
the eyes with crape, and using shades, five of our
little party became severely affected with snow blind-
ness, which unfortunate circumstance prevented our
going forward until they were somewhat better.
Before evening two of the sufferers became quite
blinded by the inflammation, and all complained of
most acute burning pain ; their faces, eyes, and even
heads being much swollen and very red. Bathing
would have afforded relief, but the sun did not favour
us with a single drop of water, and we could only
afford a sufficiency of wood to thaw snow for a
draught at noon. As the morning of the 12th
brought no change in our invalids, another day was
necessarily lost. The weather however was mild,
and towards evening, by breaking pieces of ice, and
placing them in the full glare of the sun, we obtained
as much water as we could drink, and a sufficiency

194

A GRAVE.

i-:

\t f

r» I .

for the sick to bathe their faces, which afforded them
amazing relief. Rambling near our tent, I found
several of that description of Eskiniaux landmarks
which are so common along the coast, and amongst
these was one pile of stones built with more regularity
than usual, and, as I supposed, over a grave. A
single slab, which formed one side, was five feet in
length by two in breadth, and must have been brought
with some difficulty from the hills. As it would
have been interesting to observe how the body lay,
we searched for one, but the ground was so hard
frozen, that our boarding-pikes would make no im-
pression on its surface. It is scarcely necessary to
say, that during our detention we were enabled to
ascertain with accuracy the situation we were in, which
I named Blake's Bay.

The morning of the 13th was fine, with the ther-
mometer at 10. Seven deer passed close to the tent
when we were getting up. Although the eyes of our
invalids were far from well, and considerable inflam-
mation still existed, it was found that by following
and looking down on the sledges of those who could
lead the way, we might again set forward. Our
forenoon's walk was along a flat beach, off which, at
about a mile distant, lay a chain of low islands and
shoals. We rested on a rocky point, on which were
numerous piles of stones, and remains of Eskiniaux
summer-residences. At noon the sun was sufficiently
powerful to afford us a draught of water without the
tedious task of thawing it ourselves, which we had

TllAVF.LLINC;.

(lone invariably at mid-day, and each cveninpj except
one, since leavinjr the sliips. Tlie second portion of
our day's journey brouglit us to the top of a hijiifh
hill, from whence the sea was distant about two
wles. I'he rocks on the eastern face were bold and
abrupt, and the snow was thawed from their flat
sides. This bare state of the bluff had rendered it
a favourite resort for deer, of which we saw several
picking up a wretched subsistence from lichens that
grew in the crevices, or by digging withered moss
from under the snow.

On the morning of the 14th we descended Ad-
derley*s Bluff, towards the sea, near which it became
steep, and in many places precipitous : at its foot,
on the salt ice, the snow lay in such deep ridges as
very materially to impede our progress, especially as
the snow-shoes of some of our party were broken,
and almost useless. Stopping on a low point at noon,
the people caught two hairy brown caterpillars, which
were crawling languidly over the snow.

In the evening we crossed a bay, about two miles
in width, to a rocky isle, on which stood one of those
fantastic piles of stones, which the Eskimaux build,
in imitation of a man with his arms extended. Be-
yond the isle was a snug cove, in which, from the
appearance of the ice, I should imagine that our two
ships might have lain securely. When we stopped
for the night, the weather appeared on the change,
and heavy scud came from the S.E.

The wind came from this quarter on the morning

o 2

196

SNOW STORM.

#'■

I ! i :l !

of the 15th, bringing a fall of snow, and an increased
temperature to 'i6°. Soon after setting forward we
came to a bay, which, from the increasing thickness
of the weather, Mr. Palmer and myself thought
proper to examine to the head. We afterwards
crossed its entrance, a distance of about four miles,
over flat ice ; but long before this was effected, the
snow and drift fell so thickly that we walked at ran-
dom, not seeing any object to guide us : arriving at
length at the foot of a hill, we pitched the tent im-
mediately. For sixty-eight hours we remained on
this wretched spot, unable to move out without being
covered with snow. The high state of the tempera-
ture (30°) thawed the snow as it fell on the rocks,
but still we could obtain no water, as the constant
drift kept the desired fluid in a kind of pappy state.
We had however, in one respect, more than we could
have desired, for there was a continued dripping
through the tent, which wetted our clothes and
blankets entirely through, keeping us in a constant
steam ; our dwelling being but 1 1 feet by 6, and
5 feet high, shaped like the roof of a house, obliged
us to sit huddled together. Three books, which
were read all round, with the requisite operations of
eating and sleeping, beguiled the time, until the
morning of the 18th, when we enjoyed a glimpse of
the sun, and forthwith sallied out to stretch our
legs. Mr. Palmer accompanied me to the top of a
neighbouring hill, from whence we obtained an ex-
./: tensive view to the north-eastward, indeed as fai- as

RETURN BACK.

197

we could have reached in two days* journey. A
pomt near us was named Elizabeth, and the most
distant cape, which we hoped to find the N.E. ex-
tremity of America, I called after an old friend,
Cape Wilson. Half of the time allotted to our out-
going had now expired, our wood was almost ex-
pended, and it was also necessary to be prepared to
experience as many difficulties on our return, as in
our journey from the ships. My principal fear was
for the eye-sight of our people, who, I found, in-
variably suffered more pain when in the warm tent,
than during exposure to the air.

We therefore set out on our return, and our loads
being of course considerably lightened, we crossed
any hills which lay in our way, cutting over points
and, in fact, considerably shortening our distances.
From some of the declivities we enjoyed frequent
agreeable slides on our sledges, which were worn as
smooth as glass. The snow, in some places, was
steep for at least a quarter of a mile, and we had
only to lie at length on our loads, when one push
was sufficient to send us forward with the velocity of
the cars, on the montagnes, in the public gardens at
Paris.

By the evening of the 20th we were arrived near
Hoppner's Strait, at about three miles from the
island on which we had slept on the 9th. The cold
was sufficient, in consequence of a fresh northerly
wind (thermometer 14°), to give two of our party
frost-bites. A herd of seven deer tantalized us for

198

ARlllVAI. ON BOARD.

.^-.

il^

K- -'

»l!

some time, and escaped unhurt : though we very
anxiously endeavoured to procure one, it being gene-
rally agreed that dining for a dozen days off frozen
preserved meat was by no means agreeable.

The daily average of travelling, on our return, was
eighteen miles ; but on the 21st, we resolved to make
a forced march over Winter Island. We therefore
walked for eleven hours, with no inconsiderable load
behind us, and reached the ships in the evening.

The unfavourable state of the season, which had
only melted the snow on little patches of pointed
rocks, entirely precluded all possibility of our making
any observations on the nature of the desert over
which we had passed : such rocks as were partially
exposed were of gneiss, and a few detached pieces of
granite were seen. While resting on the 14th, we
found a few rounded masses of feldspar in a decom-
posing state, and on breaking the outer crust, ob-
tained some small grains of hepatic iron pyrites, of
the size of peas. We did not discover a single plant
of any description, in a state of vegetation, which may
account for the almost total absence of birds, as we
saw only a raven and three snow buntings. The deer
appeared in a wretchedly thin state, their high wi-
thers having the appearance of humps. It may be
inferred, however, that in the summer these animals
are very numerous, from the quantity of those pe-
culiar piles of stones, behind which the Eskimaux
hunter conceals himself, found in every rocky situa-
tion. We were only twice able to procure water at

13EATH OF A SEAMAN.

199

noon without thawing the snow, and were often
many hours in painful want of it. I cannot close
this abstract of our uninteresting journey, without
giving to our friends, the snow-shoes, the praises
they deserve. My people, not understanding them,
wore them the first day merely because they were
told to do so, but they proved in the end our
greatest help ; without them we could not have
made five, or, in some cases, one mile a day, as the
snow, now softened by the moderate temperature, re-
ceived us knee-deep at every step.

Our expedition, though limited, had answered the
end for which it was set on foot, which was the de-
ciding to what point the ships might run, without
being obliged to lose time in standing in-shore, to
examine any indications of bays or inlets.

As far as regarded the ice, or the advancement of
the spring, no change was observable at our winter
quarters ; and the only news I learnt was of a melan-
choly nature. James Pringle, one of the seamen of
the Hecla, who had been employed on the 8th, with
others of a fatigue party, to drag our loads for three
or four miles from the ships, had, as I then ob-
served, fallen behind, and lay on the snow : I there-
fore sent the others back, and the surgeon, who
was fortunately one of the party walking out to see

200

DEATH OF A SEAMAN.

.('J

US off, was sent to examine into his case. I now
heard that he had been taken so ill, with giddiness in
the head, that it was requisite to send a sledge to carry
him on board. By proper remedies he apparently re-
covered on the next day; but on the I6th, while em-
ployed aloft, he fell from the mizen-topmast head to
the deck ; his jaw was fractured, his neck dislocated,
and the poor fellow never moved more. This fatal
event threw a general gloom over every one, the de-
ceased having been a good and respectable seaman,
and highly esteemed by all his shipmates. Captain
Parry very kindly attended to the necessary arrange-
ments for his funeral, and on Sunday, the 19th, the
officers and crews of both ships walked in procession
to his grave, which was dug on the spot near where
the observatory had stood. When our shipmate was
laid in the ground, a volley was fired over him, and
every one attended divine service on board the Fury.
During our absence Mr. Hoppner had put the
ship in summer order, had painted the boats, and made
every thing in readiness for active service. Two
families, who had chosen to separate from the main
body, had built a couple of snow huts on the ice
near the ships, and on the morning after my return
they came to pay me a visit. Kooilittiuk had been
tutored in making a dandy bow, and came to me,
with a knowing shake of the head, and a " Werry
well I taank you. Captain Lyon,** as a welcome
home again. My report of having seen deer, deter-
mined our little party on setting out immediately

LAST OF THJ-: NATIVES LEAVE US.

201

for Amityook, and two or three days were now
occupied in carrying their heaviest goods on in ad-
vance. They had no sledge, and were endeavour-
ing to make a substitute by plaiting whalebone, with
which wretched contrivance they would have at-
tempted to set out. Fortunately, however, it was in
my power to give to each family one of the sledges we
had recently used; and on Kooilittiuk's receiving
his, Arnalooa, with the usual conscience of these
people, was extremely displeased that she did not, at
any rate, receive a knife for herself, saying at the
same time, that I gave every thing to her husband.
To draw the loads, which were, ultimately made into
one, and placed on a bone sledge which Captain
Parry had formerly purchased and now gave them,
they had but one grown dog and a small bandy-
legged puppy ; for this latter, however, a small harness
was made, and he was not allowed to be idle. Much
interest was felt for the poor natives, who were about
to set out on a journey which, by their own account,
would occupy thirty or forty days, and this without
a morsel of food, except a few candle ends and pieces
of bread, which any one of the party could have eaten
at a meal. They were, notwithstanding, in as high
spirits as if in a land of plenty, and talked of killing
deer and seals with the greatest confidence.

On the 25th our little party went to take leave
of Captain Parry with three cheers, and the men re-
ceived a boarding-pike each. They then came to
me, and each man was presented with a hatchet.

202

APUKKIA.

Amidst the general joy at receiving these gifts, I
observed my friend Kooilittiuk stooping and running
over the edge of each axe with his thumb, in order
to ascertain if his own was as good as the others,
which, finding to be the case, his happiness was quite
complete, A poor divorced woman (Apukkm) who
had no one's success to rejoice in, was a silent spec-
tator, and stood with tears in her eyes gazing on the
rest ; but though at other times the greatest beggar
of the tribe, now neither by words nor looks asked
for a parting present. Her feelings were such as
must have agitated even a civilized person; but I
made her happy by a present of a knife, with a
promise, that when she brought me any man as her
husband at Amityook, he should receive an axe. The
poor woman was more than satisfied, she had not
power to thank me. With all their shouting, laugh-
ing, and jumping, I could clearly perceive that our
little band of travellers frequently allowed a look to
escape them, which acknowledged that they were
leaving their best friends. In the hopes of seeing us
in the summer, and I believe at the moment feeling
gratitude for past favours, the women as well as the
men attached themselves to their sledges, and having
given three hearty cheers, set out on their dreary and
hazardous journey.

The weather was clear and fine, and much open
water was seen to the eastward. Two large flocks
of ducks now visited us. A bear track having been
observed on the point in the morning, some of us

DKEll AllE SKKX.

203

went to examine it, and now found that the animal
had landed, and had several times crossed the path
of the officers who had first traced his steps. We
did not meet with the creature, but suspected that
he must be lying close at hand amongst the heavy ice,
and no doubt looking with a watchful eye at us.

The first grouse (five in number) were killed on
the 30th, their plumage still wintry white. The
two first deer also were seen by Mr. M*Laren ; and
I afterwards, in looking for them, saw eight more, but
too shy to allow of my approaching within half a mile
of them. One of the ravens which had attended us
throughout the winter was killed ; and it was remark-
able, as being the only bird we had seen whose
plumage underwent no change during the winter, as
it always continued of the same glossy black as the
English raven. -

Serjeant Wise killed a king duck (anas spectabilis),
which was in most beautiful plumage. This bril-
liant bird, in size and form, resembles the eider
drake, but in the colouring of the head there is an
essential difference : this is on account of a large
orange-coloured patch of flesh, which protrudes from
the side of the skull on each side, along the root of
the beak. In feel, grain, and colour, it exactly re-
sembles the rind of a fine orange, but changes to a
dingy brown soon after death.

Some long-tailed ducks (anas glacialis) were also
killed on this day, and large flocks of both the above
kinds were seen in the open water of the strait.

J.M)4

SINGULAR rilKNOMKNON.

Several f^rouse were killed, and it was observed that
the plumage of the females was bejijimiinfij to ehaiige.
Swans also had now made their a))[)eanince.

In the afternoon a most singuhir phenomenon was
observed in the heavens. The western sky was blue
and cloudless, while over he.ad it was hazy, and
abounding in what sailors call " mackerel and mares-
tails." The division of colours was by a most per-
fect arch, the legs of which stood in the N. E. and
S. W. A strong breeze from the westward did not,
in any way, affect the edge of the bow, which was
clearly defined. With the legs stationary, the whole
clouded part receded, or fell slowly to the eastward,
in the same manner as the hood of a carriage is
thrown back, until by degrees, and after the expira-
tion of two hours, the sky was all of the same pure
azure as had at first been seen in the west. A
strong wind continued blowing all night.

Captain Parry having determined on cutting a
canal for the ships to get to the open water, which
daily tantalised us, both crews were accordingly set
to work at sawing a track which had been marked
out, being 197 feet in width at the outer end, and
fifty near the ships, while in length it was 2058 feet.
Besides this there was a second cut from the Hecla
to the Fury, 350 feet in length, by fifty to sixty
in width. The average thickness of the ice was
three or four feet j but in some places it was as
much as twelve feet, and was extremely difficult to
cut.

SWAN'S NKST.

5205

A swan's c^^ was brouj^lit off to mc, and a second
left in the nest, which Sergeant Wise had found
about two niik's from tlie ships. 1 immediately
went to sec it, and found tlie female sitting, with
the male standing near. They both, however, took
flight before we could get a shot. They were quite
white, except on the neck and breast, which ap-
peared slightly tinged with yellow. The legs and
feet were of a deep black. The nest was a large
oval mound of peat, which, as it was in small pieces,
not exceeding a walnut in bigness, must have caused
infinite labour in its construction, and as the country
was still almost entirely covered with snow, the
birds must have brought their materials from some
place we had not seen. The size of this nest was
enormous, being five feet ten inches by four feet ten
inches, and two feet in height. The cavity for the
eggs was on the top, and about eighteen inches in
diameter, so that the whole body of the female bird
was seen while sitting. As the swans had not re-
turned on the evening of the 8th, I took the second
egg, fancying they had forsaken the nest, but in this
I was mistaken, for in the course of the same night
a third was laid. They were handsomely shaped, of
a dull white, and weighing eight ounces each, so
that they afforded three good meals to one of our
invalids.

On the 9th, I brought off the first flowers we had
seen in blossom; they were of the saxifraga oppo-
sitifolia; and it is singular, that on the same day of

' ' 1

206

THK SEASON.

\u^.

, ■ I
t
i

the same montli, the same flower was first seen at
Melville Island.

This tardy appearance of vegetation, at a place
nine degrees to the southward of the winter-quarters
of the last expedition, offers a strong argument in
favour of the hypothesis, that latitude makes but
little or no difference as far as regards this portion
of the polar regions. Neither had we yet expe-
rienced sufficiently mild weather to have produced a
shower of rain, although in the former voyage it had
been abundant before June.

During the last week, ducks, plovers, grouse,
sanderlings, turnstones, dotterels, and gulls, were
shot ; and deer were seen by all who walked a short
distance inland. More than half the canal was at this
time cut, and the ice floated out of it. The sea
continued open as before ; but the weather was still
sharp, and the ground, except on ridges, deeply co-
vered with snow.

On the 14th, a brent goose was killed. We had
given over all thoughts of seeing any thing more of
the Eskimaux, when on this day four of them came
down to us to bid farewel, to beg, and, as we soon
found, to steal, as much as possible. Kettle, his wife,
and Teea, slept in my cabin ; and I was obliged to
pass half the night in watching the first couple, who,
after all, robbed me of nothing but a thimble. In
the morning, however, a pick-axe, lead and line, and
various et ceteras, were taken from the side of the
canal J but it all ended in detection, owing to the

CANAL FINISHED.

J207

imprudence of my umamri, who, as it was affirmed by
some, endeavoured to secrete a thirteen-inch block
in her boot !

The weather on the 18th was rather foggy; and,
during an hour or two, we enjoyed the first rain
whicli had fallen for nearly nine months. The
ice, or rather the snow upon it, had become ex-
tremely soft and wet, which rendered walking dif-
ficult. The canal was now completely finished, with
the exception of floating the ice out between the
ships. This truly arduous task had occupied our
people for fifteen days, from six a. m. to eight p. m. ;
but even, under such constant exertion, there never
was a set of men who laboured with more spirit and
good-humour: the singing at each saw was con-
tinual; and a person with closed eyes might have
fancied himself at some country merry-making.

Supposing that our passage was now open to us,
and that the morrow would be the last day at Winter
Island, a party of us went to the little S. E. hill (now
named Cape Fisher), in order to take our farewell of
so charming a spot. We had distinguished it by
the name of the Yackee (Eskimaux) stone, as being
the place from whence these people had been in the
habit of taking a view of the state of the ice to sea-
ward, prior to making their excursions for seals
and walruses. We here painted the ships' names,
drank to our future success, and smoked a few segars
very merrily. While we sat on the moss, fancying
ourselves very rural, though in reality extremely cold,

-Ta^j^

208

THE (JAUDKNS.

I' '%

a few ill-fated buntings came near enough to be shot,
and were instantly roasted for our supper. Takinj;!^
each a piece of the Yackee stone as a souvenir, wo
returned on board at dusk.

To those who have had the happiness of residing
in our own dear country all their life, surrounded
by beautiful scenery, it may appear impossible that
persons who had also tasted for a time tlie same
blessing, could ever feel attachment to a barren icy
shore; yet I can answer for my own sensations,
bordering closely on regret at leaving our winter-
quarters, which, however dreary, had still afforded
us a kind of home for nine months, and which by
habit, had possessed many points of interest. Thus,
although flat, and for above eight months entirely co-
vered with snow, we had distinguished our walks by the
high-sounding names of the Promenaie or Cause-
way, South-east Point, East Bay, Hills, Yackee Huts,
Yackee Stone ; and last, though not the least im-
portant on the list, the " Garden *' of each ship, was
a favourite lounge. These last places consisted of a
hot-bed, each covered with three sashes, made for
the purpose in England. The attempts at rearing
a variety of vegetables succeeded to admiration ;
by dint of coaxing, mustard and cress, peas two
inches high, and radishes the thickness of threads,
crowned our endeavours in the Heel i, to the weight
of three pounds when all mixed together ! The gar-
dens, however, answered one most excellent purpose,
by making many of our people walk to observe their

CANAI. I'lLLLI) ITI'.

UOi)

> shot I

lir, we

siding
unded
le that
I same
en icy
lations,
winter-
ftbrded
lich by
Thus,
relv co-
s by the
Cause-
5 Huts,
ast im-
lip, was
ed of a
ade for
rearing
ration ;
as two
ihreads,
weight
'he gar-
lurpose,
ve their

progress, wlio otlicrwisc would have taken no exor-
cise. We produced vegetables in good earnest on
board the ships, from following a plan pursued by
Captain Parry during the last voyage; which was,
by rearing mustard and cress in boxes, placed in the
vicinity of the various stoves. In this manner we
were enabled to afford a little salad to each mess oc-
casioiiiil'y ; «nd vve reared, on the whole, one hundred
pounds of this most desirable antiscorbutic. Happily,
we had not in either ship any occasion for this in in-
dividual cases, owing to the excellent and magnificent
provision of comforts of all descriptions which were
sent out with us.

To return to the ships : during the night of the
18th, on which we had built all our castles, the
whole body of ice astern broke, filled up our hard-
wrought canal, and fixed us as firm as ever; some
grounded bergs, on a shoal without the bay, pre-
venting the harbour floes from going to sea. Further
ruptions took place on the 21st, all equally unfavour-
able. While thus detained, as the island was now bare
of snow, and the lakes were thawed, parties went
daily on little shooting excursions. On the 25th,
I shot a mouse, which was the first seen this season ;
it was in its brown summer clothing. I mention
this circumstance, because those at Melville Island
were white. A dovekie was also shot on this day,
whose plumage formed a most beautiful variety be-
tween the summer and winter garb, being spotted
all over with black and white feathers. A wind up

APPEAllANCE OF THE ISLAND.

the inlet having filled it with ice, vast numbers of
king, eider, and pin-tailed ducks, with a few brent-
geese and divers, ai:d six swans, resorted to the
lakes or swamps, which also afforded subsistence
to red phalaropes and sand-pipers; while on the
dry land, the golden plover was frequently met with
ir.« beautiful plumage. In my walks, I found that
the swan's nest was situated in the centre of a lake,
so that I could not have reached it ; and had a brood
been reared in it, they would have been out of the
range of our guns. Up to this period we had found
no eggs ; although in a brent-goose which I killed
were two ready for laying.

In several of my excursions inland, I was asto-
nished by the rapid change in the surface of the
country; which, from its appearance when deeply
covered with snow, we had all supposed was flat and
regular. I now found, that although low (for I should
not have supposed the highest hill to be above 200
feet), it was rough, stony, and, except in the valleys,
of ragged masses of granite and gneiss. There was
one remarkable feature in this island, which I had
also observed in other places during the preceding
summer; and which was, that on the most elevated
spots it was common to find ridges of rounded
shingle, as if thrown up by the action of the waves,
by whose attrition perhaps the stones had been worn
smooth. On some of these inland beaches I found
fossil marine shells in masses of limestone. Our
collectors of specimens, myself amongst the number,

APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND.

211

found frequent detached masses of clay iron-stone ;
and in some instances, small veins of iron pyrites
were procured. Only one block of sand-stone was
seen ; but lime in great quantities lay amongst the
shingle ; some was black and foetid, but the ge-
neral character was compact, and curiously marked
throughout with small ferruginous lines and curved
veins. Magnesian limestone was scarce.

Vegetation could scarcely be said to have began ;
as, excepting the saxifrage, there were but few mosses
and grasses which had thrown out buds. Every rock
was more or less covered with a black shrivelled
lichen, having the same appearance as the little dry
blotch, which sometimes rises from the effect of
heat on wood which has frequently been painted
black. In the bottom of many little transparent
pools amongst the rocks, I observed a few plants
more than usually forward, and each bud was en-
veloped in a delicate pearl-like bubble.

On all the eminences, and in fact wherever a large
stone could be found, were traces of the Eskimaux,
either as huts, graves, fox-traps, &c. ; and there was
one spot near the Yackee stone, which had obtained
the name of the Slaughter-house, in consequence of
the immense quantity of seal, walrus, and other bones,
left by some summer settlers.

Having, as well as in my power, given a short
description of a place which even the most determined
writer could not say much about, I must now turn to
a melancholy account of occurrences in the Fury.

' i

212

DEATH OF TWO SEAMEN.

William Souter (quarter-master), who had for
six days been suffering from an inflammation of the
bowels, died on this evening. This sad event, it
was supposed, tended materially to hasten the end
of John Reid, carpenter's mate, who had for several
months been in a consumptive state. The latter
poor fellow breathed his last on the following day,
at the same hour as Souter had died, and as he had
himself prognosticated on hearing of the decease of
the first. Both these men were esteemed by their
shipmates and officers, and were much regretted.

On the 28th, the officers and men of each ship
carried the bodies in procession to the east hill,
where both were laid in the same grave. Inscrip-
tions on small slabs of lime-stone were placed on
the tombs of Pringle and the two last sufferers.

On the 30th, our sportsmen added to our list a
deer, which, although large, was in very poor con-
dition ; and a Sabine gull, the only one as yet pro-
cured in the course of our voyage. An egg of the
king-duck (we had invented a new name in orni-
thology, calling the females " queens") was brought
off from a nest of turf and grass on an elevated spot
in a swamp : no down was found in its construction ;
by which it would appear, that the females do not
pluck it from their breasts until the time of incubation
draws to a close. The egg was long, but small, and
of a dull greenish yellow.

The wind had for two days been strong from the
northward, with much snow and sleet ; but on the

ion;

not
ation

and

LEAVE WINTER ISLAND.

215

,', ^

' t'

first it veered to the N. W. whence it blew in heavy-
squalls. The sea now cleared rapidly to the eastward,
and the bay ice gave way as far as where the ships
were lying. Four Eskimaux came down to us, and
we learnt that the greater part of them had returned
to pitch their tents near their former quarters.

I must here account for having omitted a par-
ticular description of the habits and peculiarities of
this extraordinary people, but as we were confident
of again meeting with them on our summer ex-
pedition, I thought it better to wait till I could
more closely observe them, and better understand
their language. It would indeed have been im-
possible to give a connected account of a whole tribe,
merely from a casual view of one half-starved portion
of it, their wants having so broken in upon their
usual pursuits, that in no one instance did we see a
family acting independently of our assistance.

'i i

214

EEWEKAT'S PAllTY.

:''■■!

CHAPTER VI.

Leave Winter Island— Dangerous navigation— The coast— Barrow
River — Walrus killed — New natives — Land at Igloolik — Tents
— Inhabitants — Bad weather — Hospitality of natives — State
of the ice — Bone huts — Salmon procured — Land journey with
Toolemak — Sledges — Fires — A ball — The koonik — Return on
board — Whale killed— OflF Nerlinakto— -Captain Parry leaves
us— His return and discovery.

With a fresh breeze from the N. W. we made sail
from our winter quarters at 7 a. m., having been
frozen in for two hundred and sixty-seven days ! Our
first run, after rounding the S. E. point, or Cape
Fisher, was opposite to Adderley's Bluff, where
we made fast to the land ice, until a change of tide
had set the loose ice off shore, and allowed us in the
evening to get as far as Point Elizabeth, where we
remained for the night.

Early on the 3rd we made a few miles towards
Cape Wilson, and the tide obliged us to make fast to
the land floe. A short time before we stopped, we
were astonished by seeing Eewerat and his little
party, who had left us thirty-nine days before, tra-
velling along the smooth ice about two miles in-shore
of us. We soon after saw a man, who from his pe-
culiar gestures we imagined to be Kooilittiuk, perch
himself on a high hummock, about half a mile from
the edge of the land floe, where he continued screaming
and making bows until we had sailed past him. The
ships were no sooner secured, than Captain Parry

EEWEllAT'S PARTY

21i

sent an officer to bring our friends on board. From
the Fury they came under our bows, and several of
us went to them in a boat, which, as they had never
before seen one afloat, caused them much amusement.
Kooilittiuk, as being by far the greatest proficient
in complimentary English, had constituted himself
master of the ceremonies j and the whole party were
unfeignedly glad to see us j as well as our tin pots
of various shapes and sizes, with sundry iron hoops
besides. The travellers had killed only two deer,
but seals had been so plentiful that they had ob-
tained more than the numbers of " all their fingers
and toes." They were therefore all in good case,
very greasy, and more than usually dirty. Their
time appeared to have been spent in dragging forward
their heavy load by easy stages, and taking long
gormandizing rests as food presented itself. From
Eewerat, who was the only person capable of giving
any information, I learnt that he considered us as
ten days from Amityook. Cape Wilson he named
AttTg'il-root, and a long low island off it, Aoo-lit-tt-
wik ; both which places agreed in every respect with
the chart he had formerly drawn. The tide again
serving, we took leave of the Eskimaux, and in
shaking hands, Kooilittiuk, with a knowing look, en-
deavoured to persuade his friend Mr. Richards to
leave his gloves behind him. He bore the refusal,
however, with great magnanimity, and advancing
before his companions, took his leave by a bow, and
the expressive speech of " Welly well I taank you,"

S16

IMPETUOUS TIDKS.

r *

to which three cheers were added as chorus by the
rest.

On securing the ships in the evening, the heavy
ice came down on us with such force as to snap our
hawsers, and to carry us on board the Fury, by which
means we broke her best bower anchor, and cut our
waist boat nearly in two. It was not until the pres-
sure ceased that we again got clear ; but we lay in
dread of a repetition of this destructive squeeze
during the whole night. Since leaving Winter Island
we had been in the habit of remarking the amazing
regularity of the soundings, which at some miles
from the shore always were between forty and fifty
fathoms. At every mile we advanced, we found
the tides more impetuous, and they swept past the
edge of the land floe at the rate of at least three
miles an hour, bringing heavy ice down from the
northward, which we could only escape by securing
the ships within some little nook or point in the fast
ice, which acted as a fender.

On the morning of the 4th, the pressure was so
heavy as to break us adrift from three hawsers ; we,
however, were able to get secure again. Casting off
in the forenoon, we towed with all the boats for a
short time until the ice again began to set in on us.
As the Fury followed close astern, we could not get
fast, and to avoid again being carried down on her,
we were obliged to let the ice take us where it
would. The same stream which hampered us, left the
Fury in clear water, and she got fast. During the

'^'

DANGER OF THE HECLA.

217

the

remainder of this day and night, and until the
evening of the 5th, we made constant but fruitless
attempts to get to the land floe, and in one instance
four or five of our men were each on separate pieces
of ice, parted from us in the endeav >ur to run out a
hawser. A heavy pressure closing the loose ice un-
expectedly gave them a road on board again ; and
but for this circumstance we must have seen them
carried away by the stream to certain destruction.
When at length we were secured, the Fury was
twelve or fourteen miles N. E. of us.

During the 6th we advanced about a cable's length,
and at noon experienced so heavy a pressure, that for
a quarter of an hour our stem was lifted two feet out
of the water, when the ice again slackened, and the
ship righted. We were afterwards employed in
towing and warping all night, and a light breeze fa-
vouring us, reached the Fury by noon on the 7th.
She was lying in wait for us, sheltered in a bight of
the land ice near the island before mentioned. We
found that her sportsmen had killed a deer and se-
veral ducks, and a flock of Sabine gulls were seen.
A few eggs only were picked up, which might be ac-
counted for by the number of foxes we observed to
be foraging about the island. Starting in the after-
noon, two trips carried us about four or five miles on
our way, when we made fast early on the 8th, but
were not suffered to remain long in tranquillity. The
flood-tide coming down loaded with a more than ordi-
nary quantity of ice, pressed the ship very much at
between 6 and 7 a. m. and rendered it necessary to

218

DANGER OF THE HECLA.

.4*;'

get the stream cable out, in addition to the other
hawsers, which were fast to the land ice. This was
scarcely accomplished, when a very heavy and ex-
tensive floe took the ship on her broadside, and being
backed by another large body of ice, gradually lifted
her stern as if by the action of a wedge. The weight
every moment increasing, obliged us to veer on the
hawsers, whose friction was so great as nearly to cut
through the bitt-heads, and ultimately to set them on
fire, so that it became requisite for people to attend
with buckets of water. The pressure was at length too
powerful for resistance, and the stream cable, with two
six and one five-inch hawsers, all gave way at the same
moment : three others soon following them. The sea
was too full of ice to allow the ship to drive, and the
only way in which she could yield to the enormous
weight which oppressed her, was by leaning over on
the land ice, while her stern at the same time was
entirely lifted to above the height of five feet out of
the water ! The lower deck-beams now complained
very much, and the whole frame of the ship under-
went a trial which would have proved fatal to any less
strengthened vessel. At the same moment the rudder
was unhung with a sudden^ jerk, which broke up the
rudder-case, and struck the driver boom with great
force. We were in this state, when at 9 a. m. I made
known our distresses to Captain Parry by telegraph, as
I clearly saw that in the event of another floe backing
the one which lifted us, the ship must inevitably turn
over, or part in midships. The pressure, however,
which had been so dangerous to us, now proved our

SEPAHATION OF THE LAND ICE.

219

best friend ; for the floe on which we were borne,
burst upwards unable to resist its force ; the ship
righted, and a small slack occurring in the water,
drove several miles to the southward before she could
again be secured and get the rudder hung ; a circum-
stance much to be regretted at the moment, as our
people had been employed with little intermission for
three days and nights, attending to the safety of the
ship in this tremendous tide-way. It may here be to
the purpose to observe, that we found the flood-tide
coming from the northward, and generally running
nine hours, while the ebb seldom exceeded three or
four.

On the forenoon of the 9th we again made sail,
after having passed a very anxious night. Constant
labour during the whole day advanced us about two
miles ; but at midnight the sea opened, the wind came
in our favour, and we ran to the northward in spite
of our enemy the flood-tide. On our way, we picked
up a letter attached to a boarding-pike, which had
been left by Captain Parry to inform me of the state
of the ice and soundings in the place where we saw
the Fury lying. I now learnt, that at the time we
had suffered so much from the heavy pressure, the Fury
had not been left in repose, but had moored with a
bower cable to the land ice ; this alone had enabled
her to ride out two tides, after which she shifted into
a bight occasioned by a separation of the land ice.
We continued running with a fresh breeze in company
with the Fury until .5 a.m. on the 10th, when we made

220

THE COAST.

I™

fast to some heavy grounded ice close to the land.
The soundings had been so regular, that, had it been
requisite, we could have approached to within half
a cable's length of the beach, and even now we lay in
five fathoms water at a stone's throw from it. This
enabled a party to take a walk on the shore, and we
ascended to the rising ground by the side of a large
and wild water-course rushing with great rapidity over
a rugged bed of grey gneiss. The sides were over-
hung by steep cliffs of snow, and from beneath these
issued several small streamlets which joined the larger
rush of water. The land was high, but not irregular,
and was covered in many places with detached pieces
of granite, quartz, and lime-stone. Where this super-
strata did not occur, the dark grey gneiss was found.
The valleys were swampy, and in one of them,
there was a lake of about two miles in length, where
moss and rank grass were abundant ; but the only
two plants we saw in flower were the blue saxifrage
and a few yellow poppies. Sorrel was found, but of
so diminutive a size as merely to-suffice to show itself
amongst short moss. The whole scene was desolate
in the extreme. Eleven deer, however, enlivened it
a little, but they were extremely wary.

Of birds, one grouse, and a few buntins were seen,
and I shot two Siberian larks, the alauda flava of
Linnaeus. On the rocks I found several half torpid
caterpillars, and about thirty coccoons, which latter
were so numerous, that had I made any particular
search for them, hundreds might have been procured.

THE COAST.

Remains of Eskimauxtent circles, and hunting coverts
were scattered along the side of the ravine, where I
found a perfect lamp, which I was about to clean
from what I supposed to be an accumulation of dirt,
when I discovered, that instead of being of the lapis
olaris, or pot-stone, it was formed of several pieces of
granite cemented together in a way which we had
never before seen. -^

During the 11th, we were twice set adrift by the
floating and breaking of the grounded ice, but by
night were again tolerably secure, and in some mea-
sure sheltered from the tides, which rattled past us
with great impetuosity. A calm prevented our
moving, although the sea was clear.

On the 12th, we ran a few miles to the N. E.,
until the wind failed, and the boats were five hours
in towing us in-shore, where we made fast to ice.
During the evening we had observed a considerable
notch in the land, from whence a current set out-
wards with great rapidity, and freshened the sur-
face of the sea, at a distance of a mile from the
shore. At night, a deer came and looked down on
the ship from the rocks, and one of the watch had
merely to go on shore and shoot it.

As the land to the N. E. was still closely beset with
ice, and the wind was unfavourable for sailing, I
accompanied Captain Parry to examine the place we
had seen on the preceding evening. A boat was at
the same time sent from each ship to haul the Seine.
We soon found ourselves at the entrance of a river.

222

IJ ARROW RIVER.

I ^J^* ,

0.'

I" ■■

hut were not able to proceed above a mile or two up it,
before our progress was arrested by a small fall, or
rapid. At this place the stream was about as broad
as the Thames at Vauxhall. We here hauled the
boats on the beach, and proceeded up a rising
ground, in order to command a better view. Before
we had advanced a mile, we heard the roaring of a
cataract, and arrived at the top of a very magnificent
cascade, surrounded by the most picturesque and ro-
mantic scenery,,

When we had examined, for a time, this new and
interesting object, lead lines were brought from the
boat, and the result of our observations gave the
height of the fall as follows. Where the principal
fall commences its descent, the breadth is about
forty-five yards ; from thence the first leap is
about fifteen feet, at an angle of nearly thirty de-
grees from a vertical line, and then becoming nar-
rower, (or from thirty-five to forty yards), it falls
perpendicularly ninety feet more, or 105 in total
height. The basin which receives this immense
body of water is somewhat of a circular form, and
about a quarter of a mile in diameter, being rather
more than the breadth of the reach immediately
below it. Before returning on board, I crossed the
lower stream, in order to obtain a front view of the
cascade, and found it extremely magnificent ; the
position of the sun creating a delicate rainbow in the
immense clouds of spray which arose to the height of
seventy or eighty feet.

If,'. .
h

(;AME PROCUllEl).

2'^(3

up it,
ill, or
broad
[1 the
rising
Jefore
: of a
Ificeiit
ad ro-

w and
in the
^e the
incipal

about
lap is
ty de-
g nar-
it falls
1 total
imense
m, and

rather
idiately
sed the

of the
it ; the
J in the
3ight of

I traced the river a short distance above the cas-
cade, and observed three other rapids, really de-
serving their name ; the clear stream running over
them with great force. The course wa in a winding
direction to the westward, and the banks were ex-
tremely wild and striking. Rocks of gneiss and granite
sometimes hemmed the stream, but more generally
its shores were gently sloping from the plains, which
abounded in flowery vegetation ; it was impossible
to look on this first interesting country we had seen,
without fancying that the air was scented and more
pure than usual, and that it might, without detrac-
tion, remind us of the scenery of a better land. In
the swamps I found several chalybeate streamlets, one
of which savoured strongly of iron. Deer abounded in
the valley; four of them were killed, and several
wounded ; king and eider ducks skimmed along the
water, and black and red-throated divers were also
seen. The golden plover was frequently met with, and
a pair of hawks, which had built their nest on a steep
cliff near the principal fall, whirled repeatedly over our
heads, while we continued near the foot of the rock.
One of our people brought me an exceedingly pretty
nest with five eggs, of the snow buntin. This was
lined with rein-deer's hair in the same neat manner
as those of our chaffinches, and the outer part was

grass.

Our boats of fishermen met with no success,
merely catching one ugly looking fish, which was
immediately recognised by the seamen as what they

S I

I I

1 :i

' " • 1 9 SSI

WALIvUS KILLED.

called a bull-head. Could the boats have got to the
basin at the foot of the fall, I have no doubt they
would have had better success, as from the remains
of Eskimaux dwellings I am inclined to think that
salmon might have been procured.

We all returned on board, highly delighted with our
day's discoveries, which made a stronger impression on
us from comparison with the desolation and wretched-
ness of every other place we had before visited. If
I might judge by my own feelings, every one who
had been on shore went to bed a little home-sick.

During the night we had a most favourable run
to the northward, but on the morning of the 14th,
thick weather and a change of wind checked us a
good deal. In the course of the day we made some
low land, which answered to the description given of
Amit-yook. We continued working along shore, (in
twenty-five fathoms, at the distance of eight and ten
miles), until on the 15th, when the wind came lightly
round in our favour. On some stream ice near us
were several herds of walruses basking in the sun ;
and I went, accompanied by Mr. Fife, to procure
one. They allowed us even to land on the pieces
of ice on which they lay, before they commenced
their cumbrous retreat, facing us, with open mouths.
We killed one, but he sunk before we could get
the boat to him, and wounded several others, when,
seeing the Fury's boat had been more successful, we
went to assist in towing her. On our way we met
a male and female attended by their cub, and soon

WALRUSES.

225

wounded the two old ones. They fought us how-
ever with desperation, and would not retreat. The
female, on being killed, was secured alongside, but
the male, even when shot in three places, and having
two lances sticking in him, attacked us furiously,
although each time he approached, he received a
bayonet to the socket. Having at last driven him near
the Fury's boat, our joint efforts despatched him, after
about ten minutes struggle. This brave animal had
repeatedly attempted to hook his tusks over the gun-
wale of the boat, had stove her slightly in three
places, and left eight deep marks on her bow. The
cub, which was black and without tusks, continued
by its parents during the whole combat, and fre-
quently endeavoured to mount on the back of which-
ever first rose to the surface. To this may be attributed
the more than usual fierceness of the old ones, whose
fears for their offspring prevented their own escape.
The female, on being hoisted in, was considered as
rather small by those who were judges. On each
side she had two teats, almost concealed in the
belly, but they could be pulled out to the size and
length of those of a sow. The stomach contained
only about Sibs. of pebbles, and a handful of sea-
weed. The blubber was not above two inches in
thickness, perhaps owing to the animal's being re-
duced by suckling its young. The flesh was coarse
and dark-coloured, but the greater part of us pre-
ferred it to such thin vienison as had at this time
been procured. During the night we continued

i I

226

NEW NATIVES.

running slowly to the northward, passing a cluster
of three or four small islands, on which were the
appearances of large stone huts, although we saw no
people. On loose pieces of ice near the shore, such
a quantity of walruses were lying, that some of our
officers who had been in Spitzbergen assured me
they had never before seen them so numerous.

As we advanced on the morning of the l6th, we
still continued to see more land, all of which bore
the same character of flatness as that we had lately
passed, and we at length came to a track of flat and
unbroken ice, extending, as far as we could observe,
to the land north of it. A view from the crow's
nest in an instant showed us the very positions
which had been laid down with such admirable ac-
curacy by lligliak ! At nine in the forenoon several
tents were seen^ on shore, and we bore up to commu-
nicate with the natives, whom we observed coming
off in five kayaks. Captain Pariy in one boat, and
myself in another, with several of our officers, went
to join them. The strangers at first showed evident
signs of timidity, and would not for some time ap-
proach us, until on receiving a few presents their re-
serve wore off, and all crowded round us, asking
questions — " Who are you, what are you, whence do
ye come, what is your name, what d' ye want ?** &c.
with great rapidity and anxiety. We now fortunately
understood enough of their language to answer them
satisfactorily, and our friendship was therefore soon
established. One fine-looking fellow, in a bear skin

LAND AT IGLOOLIK.

227

coat, hung on by our boat, and was delighted at hear,
ing tidings of our Winter Island people. His wife,
he informed us, was sister to Okotook and To-
gorlat, and his own name was Innook-shioo. As the
weather had become ihiek, and snow fell with a fresh
breeze, we could not see the land ; but our new friends
piloted us along the edge of the ice, and their kayaks
cqt gracefully over a rolling sea which was rising.
After a very long pull we came to a creek in the ice,
and saw tents on shore, at about half a mile from us.
Our boats being hauled on the ice, the cries of our
guides soon brought out the whole population, who
hastened towards us, but with evident signs of fear,
until assured by those who led us by the hand, of our
friendly intentions. Innook-shioo, who had taken
charge of me, hurried me forward as fast as he could
run, and each of our party found some one to con-
duct him in the same manner. Some old men were
amongst the first we stopped to speak with, and three
of them carried spears or staffs made of one entire
piece of ivory of the unicorn's horn. They all, on
approaching, quietly stroked their breasts, repeating
the words Man-ik-to-mi and Tai-ma. One of the
old people presented me his ivory spear on seeing me
look at it, and fell back, not expecting any return ;
he however considered a knife, which I gave him, as
a most valuable equivalent, and held it up with great
satisfaction to show to the others. Captain Parry's
party had proceeded to the larger assemblage of
tents, while we went to five which were about half a

Q'2

228

TENTS.

■*4<>

.^>v

mile from them. All the people we met were intro-i
duced to us by name, but in a very hurried manner,
as my conductor did not slacken his pace until close
to his own tent ; where, at the entrance, stood his
wife with two walrus tusks, which she threw rudely
towards us, and then ran away. The husband, how-
ever, soon pacified her, and we all went into their
little dwelling. The lady, whose name was Ang-
ma-l6o-t65-een'ga, was some years younger, and
much better looking than her sister Togorlat, and
might have been called a pretty woman even in Eu-
rope. I quite delighted her by speaking of her re-
latives, and showing the kakeen her sister had worked
on my arm. All the Winter Island news was talked
over, and I found in each of the other tents some
of our officers giving the same information to attentive
audiences. Tents now taking the place of huts in my
narrative, I made a sketch of Innookhioos, which was
single, and one of the best ; and I may as well en-
deavour at once to describe these dwellings, a few
minutes sufficing to show us their whole construction.
The covering is of the skin of the walrus, cut into
layers of about the thickness of a dollar, and ex-
tremely transparent and oily. At the end facing
the north, seals* skins, with the hair still on them,
form a good defence against the cold winds. Be-
neath this part is the sleeping place, alone distin-
guished by having several deer skins spread on the
bare ground. All the seams of the covering are
i»ewed together with such care as to be perfectly

.'.fi

INHABITANTS.

229

water-proof, and the entrance has additional skins,
which are flapped over and kept fast by having a
stone placed on the lower edge. To support the
tent, a pole of bones lashed together, some broken
spears, or, in a few instances, a unicorn's horn is used,
and to increase the height, is placed on a large stone
in the centre. The diameter of the base is ten, twelve,
or fourteen feet, according to the circumstances or
number of inmates ; and when a tent is double, it is
merely formed by joining the mouths of two single
ones, and making the opening on one side. Besides
the portion I have called the sleeping place, there is
but little standing room, as on one side of the door
is accumulated an immense heap of flesh, blubber,
bones, birds, eggs, &c. &c. &c. which lie at the mercy
of the heels of all who enter, the juices forming an
intolerably filthy mud on the shingle floor. From
this profusion of delicacies, thus jumbled together,
it may be unnecessary to add that the food of the
family is selected as wanted. The bottom of the
tent covering is fastened down either by large stones
or a mound of gravel piled over it, and the top of
the pole has one or two skin lines carried from it for
security and steadiness.

Wherever we went, the inhabitants produced all
their little store of valuables for sale, but they ap-
peared miserably poor, ill clothed in dirty deer skins,
and not having sufficient bedding to make them
comfortable at night. On the other hand they were
fat, and had provisions in abundance ; even their
dogs were in high condition, numerous, and the

S30

BAD WEATHER.

:-^'
■.»'«

most beautiful animals of the kind I had ever seen.
The people were very well behaved ; free, without
being rude, and extremely anxious to show us atten-
tion. Each was much pleased when we entered his
tent, thanking us for so doing, and offering us a seat
on the deer skins. We were shown the father, bro-
thers, and other relations of Kooilittiuk, which now
cleared us of an error into which we had fallen, of
fancying ourselves at Amityook j instead of which we
learnt that the land was insular, and was called Ig-
16o-lik, the northernmost inhabited island laid down
by Iligliak. The young wife of Toolooaghioo was
shown us J a very pretty well-grown girl, about four-
teen years of age, with a pair of fine black eyes. She
asked several questions about her husband, who was
soon expected to come for her, and was pleased at
hearing that he had plenty of tin pots and was an
expert seal catcher; neither did she seem sorry to
find that he was well grown and handsome.

There were at this time seventeen tents along the
beach, and we supposed the natives to amount in
number to 120. Near each tent was a canoe placed,
bottom upwards, with stones laid over to prevent its
being blown away. The paddle, spears, and equi-
page lay near, on the ground.

In the afternoon the wind and drift increased con-
siderably, and the loose ice off the edge of the land fioe
was set in motion by a rolling swell. Captain Parry,
fearing the weather would become each moment
more unfavourable, decided on going off at once ;
for, although we could not see half a mile, he hoped

HOSPITALITY.

S31

that the hourly fog signal of a gun would direct us.
The boats were launched, which gave most of us a
good cold bath, and out we pulled. The Fury's
boat soon got out of sight, ours being a gentleman
crew, and we continued to struggle against wind,
sea, sleet, and rolling ice for two hours, when, having
shipped two seas, we bore up before a third should
swamp us, and made for the fast ice, directed by the
sea we heard beating against it. After much anxiety
We got the boat through some large pieces, which
occasionally met with a heavy crush, and hauling
her up on the floe, we dragged her to the shore,
which we found to be about a mile off. The
Eskimaux no sooner saw our distress, than disre-
garding the weather, they came in a body, and as-
sisted to get the boat up a steep bank of shingle
forming the beach, and to turn her bottom upwards.
As we could not stay by her, we lay of course en-
tirely at the mercy of the natives, who might, if they
had so pleased, have stripped her of every thing in
the night-time. I however made a long oration, in
which I believe nothing was understood, but that I
had plenty of tin pots, which should be distributed
if I found them honest. An old man then said
something which seemed to influence the crowd,
who all followed us, and I do not believe a single
person went within twenty yards of the boat during
the whole night, although she lay directly in the path
between the two groups of tents, and contained an
immense treasure of wood anpl iron ; both which sub-
jstances had scarcely ever been seen amongst the tribe.

THE WOMEN.

.'4*.;

We all found tents to receive us, the hospitable
natives showing great anxiety to shelter our cold and
dripping party. Myself and three other officers were
conducted to a large double tent, where a woman
was brought to each to pull off and wring our wet
garments, and to assist in clothing us with the fur
dresses, which the men had stripped themselves of to
give us. We were then put in full possession of a
sleeping place, and though with one skin only to
cover us, it was their all j and even the dirt and
smell of the tent were forgotten in the delightful
hospitality of our entertainers, who thus tried every
means in their power to make us comfortable. The
weather, as we expected, became extremely severe,
yet our host took on himself the charge of watching
the boat, going out frequently, and returning with
the report that all was well.

When, after an hour or two, the tent was cleared
of the numerous visitors who came to look at us,
Ang5-wush-ya (its master) asked if the women should
sing, which, on our assenting, they commenced doing
with great glee, while he exhibited as a dancer, watch-
ing our looks very anxiously to observe if his endea-
vours to please were successful. To the dance was
added an exhibition of grimaces, and the extraor-
dinary guttural cries of the women; which being
finished, it became our turn to sing, and we gave
them some noisy choruses, even though we were still
so chilled that our teeth chattered. The women
observing this, tucked us up as well as they could,
spreading boots, mittens, raw duck skins, and what-

RETURN ON BOARD.

S33

ever else they could collect over our legs ; while the
men carefully stopped up the cracks in the tent, co-
vering J;hem with bunches of feathers. At length
the endeavours of our female attendants were suc-
cessful, and those kind attentions which their tender
sex have ever paid to men in distress, were suf-
ficient to warm the whole of our party. Our host
remained standing all night, which no doubt was
intended as a mark of respect for us. At about
eight o'clock, we were agreeably surprised by seeing
one of the Fury's people, who informed us that
Captain Parry had been obliged to follow our ex-
ample, and was now at the distant tents.

The morning of the 17th was but little more favour-
able for going off, as we could see nothing of the ships j
at four, however, we started, having given every
thing in our possession to our hospitable entertainers.
Every one was anxious to have a share in launching
the boat over the floe, and several men, bearing their
Kayaks on their heads, and accompanied by women,
carrying the paddles and spears, walked down also.
Eleven of them put to sea with us, although we could
not discern the ships, and it was not until the ex-
piration of four tedious hours that we heard guns,
and arrived on board the Hecla. Our different hosts,
boats and all, were taken into the ship, where they
received abundant presents for themselves and fami-
lies. A light breeze soon separated us from our
friends, who now made for the shore again, and we
stood for what we supposed the head of the bay.

The people we had now seen were all connected

234

STATE OF THE ICE.

^.#»■■

by birth and marriage with our winter friends, yet it
was the general opinion that they exhibited a greater
variety of feature. The young people of both sexes
were, many of them, good looking and even handsome ;
several of the men had stronger beards than we had
before seen, and in one case, of a reddish brown
colour. The kakeen of the women was neither so
abundantly or neatly marked as in the former tribe j
though on seeing us examining their arms, many of
them exultingly pulled up the knees of their breeches,
to show that even their legs were not devoid of orna-
ment. Two women had each lost a finger, one of
whom showed us in pantomime, that her husband had
sawed it off in consequence of a swelling j a man
also had lost a finger by a seal ; and we observed a
fine looking fellow much maimed about the eye and
temple, from the bite of a she bear, which, with her
two cubs, he had attacked and killed. As we saw
nothing of the surface of the island, and were again
to return to it, I shall now take my leave of the
Eskimaux, and return to our ships ; which, as I
learnt from Mr. Hoppner, had been very unplea-
santly situated at one period of the stormy night
which was past. The wind and thick weather
troubled us during the whole day, and the ships
were alone enabled to keep together by fog signals.

The weather clearing on the 18th, enabled us to
see the flat unbroken ice, extending from about east
to west, and filling a deep apparent bay, formed by
distant land to the northward. We now had an
admirable subject for the trial of our patience, as until

BONE HUTS.

235

the dissolution or breaking up of the ice-field, we
must unavoidably remain at its edge. We rounded
the S. £. point of land, and beating up until the
evening of the 19th, again came to a similar floe,
lying across a bay or bight, of which the land was
but indistinctly seen from the mast-head. Its ap-
pearance however was broken, and its extent from
about west to S. E. On the 20th, we bore up for
Igloolik, where on the ^3d a party landed from
each ship. On our way to the shore, the sea was so
smooth between some patches of young ice formed
during the night, that we observed the spray from
the oars to run in little silvery globules along the
surface, in the same manner as quicksilver on any
hard plane ; and it was not till the expiration of five
or six seconds, that these brilliant drops stopped*
and suddenly mingled with the other water.

Our friends met us at the edge of the ice, and haul-
ing up our boats, led, or rather dragged us, to their
tents. One woman, far advanced in pregnancy, had
partaken so largely in the general frenzy, that she
absolutely foamed at the mouth, and had all the ap-
pearance of being raving mad : the fit however gra-
dually wore off, and she became pale and composed.
With many others I visited the winter huts, which
were decidedly the most extraordinary edifices I had
ever seen, being entirely constructed of the bones of
whales, unicorns, walruses, and smaller animals, the
interstices being filled with earth and moss : they were
domed, and the base of the largest was seventeen or
eighteen feet, its height about nine. A thick coating

236

HONE HUTS.

.•^-■

of soot and filth covered the interior of these abodes,
of which there were five, and a most noisome efflu-
via exhaled from them ; the entrances were rudely
arched, not extending far, but extremely low. The
whole of the buildings were so dilapidated, that we were
enabled to see the interior without entering; which was
not to be regretted, on account of the state they were
in. The ground all around was strewed with skulls
and skeletons of animals; and human heads were
picked up, to the amount of at least a dozen ! Bones
indeed were so numerous, that we literally trod
on them. A large stagnant field of mud sur-
rounded the place, adding its full share of sweets,
as it was constantly ploughed up by all who walked
through it to the huts : the bottom of this also felt
as if covered with bones. Near at hand were several
large tumuli, which had formerly been dwellings, but
which were now solid moss-covered mounds. From
their appearance in decidedly different states of anti-
quity, from the very slow progress either of vegetation
or decay in a country which for at least nine months
in the year is frozen as hard as a rock, and from the
natives never recollecting them as being inhabited,
I am led to suppose that the island of Igloolik must
have been, for centuries, the residence of Eskimaux.
It is strange that the skulls of men should have been
left to lie neglected under-foot amongst those of all
kinds of animals : but the natives treated the matter
with the utmost indifference ; and a lad who accom-
panied me a few miles inland to shoot, carried down
to the boat for me a couple of human heads, I had

A DASKET.

237

found near a lake, with the same willingness as some
ducks which I had killed. In the course of my ram-
ble, I saw four more of these remnants of Eskimaux,
which were eagerly pointed out by the boy, when
he saw I was interested in them. Near one, a stone
cooking-vessel was lying, and had probably been
buried at the same time as the body.

In addition to the above specimens, I was so
fortunate, after a long chase, as to shoot a snowy
owl, an extremely rare and beautiful bird, and sel-
dom seen even in these regions. Naturalists place
it between the eagle and the owl ; and indeed all its
motions, when first wounded, bore far greater resem-
blance to the former than to the latter bird : its size
was immense. It is remarkable that the white owl
sees equally well as other birds, in the most bright
weather, and always takes its prey by daylight.

Amongst some other trifling purchases which I
made, was a small round basket, composed of grass,
in precisely the same manner as those constructed
by the Tibboo, in the southern parts of Fezzan, and
agreeing with them also in its shape. This is a most
striking coincidence, that savages who dwell in the ex-
tremes of heat and cold, should, with nature only for
their guide, both use the same method, although not
the same material, in the formation of their baskets.
It was my wish to buy some of the kow, or tent-
covering, of thinned walrus hides, but I found none
which was not in use. A poor fellow, however,
seeing a knife offered in exchange, ran instantly and
made an attack on his tent, in which his wife was

23S

SALMON BOUGHT.

I'-P

sitting, and they both began cutting it to pieces be-
fore I could prevent them. The covering being all
in patches, I refused to buy any part of it, but
the poor wife sat down so contentedly to repair
the damage, and seemed in such perfect good hu-
mour, that the knife was given gratis with all my
heart. While idling the time until the hour of
going on board, we gave scrambles of beads to the
women, who, many of them with children on their
backs, tumbled about, one over the other, with the
most delightful good humour ; and it was observed,
that if by accident any one dropped a bead, the
others were as anxious to pick it up, and restore it,
as if it had been for themselves. The little girls as-
sembled, to the number of eleven, to sing and make
faces, and squatted down before us for that purpose,
with great glee. They were pretty children, of from
five to ten years of age, and the leader of the troop
was a girl of superior appearance, with full black eyes
and a fine complexion, sister to Arnalooa. This
matron, who we found was actually married to, and
living with, Kongolek, a fine young man, of about
eighteen, was thirteen years of age only.

The natives accompanied us to the boats, and
cheered until we were out of hearing. , •

Landing again on the 24th, we found that a man had
Mrived from a distance with a cargo of salmon, which
IUXU17 was of course eagerly purchased, as the greatest
treat we had met with since leaving England : the
fish were small, from 18 inches to 2 feet in length.
The carcasses of two or three deer were also procured.

TOOLEMAK.

S39

;ces be-
dng all
it, but

repair
>od hu-
all my
lour of
I to the
n their
dth the
)served,
ad, the
jtore it,
girls as-
id make
purpose,
of from
le troop
ick eyes
. This

to, and
)f about

its, and

man had
1, which
greatest
nd : the
length,
rocured.

Captain Parry landed for the purpose of endeavour,
ing to induce the natives to bring a sufficient quantity
of fish for the supply of the ships, and succeeded in
engaging a man, named Too-le-mak, to set out for
that purpose on the morrow : he was to be absent four
days. As I could be well spared at this time, and
liked these kind of excursions, I asked and obtained
Captain Parry's permission to accompany the Eski-
maux, and was landed the same night, accompanied
by George Dunn (s.) of the Hecla.

A LAND JOURNEY.

We soon found Toolemak, and were welcomed to
his tent; where, for two hours, the crowd was so
great that it was impossible to move an elbow. A
new deer-skin was spread for me, and Dunn having
found a corner for himself, we all lay down to sleep,
not, however, until our host, his wife, their son, and
a dog, all naked, except the lady, who, with the de-
corum natural to her sex, retained her breeches, had
turned in beside me, under cover of a fine warm skin.
It rained incessantly during the night.

At 10 A. M. on the SGth, we set off, and walking
about two miles, found the sledge on a beach, near
the southern ice. Four men were to accompany us
on this vehicle, and the good-natured fellows volun-
teered to carry our luggage to it. A second sledge
was under the charge of three boys, who had eight
dogs : our teams consisted of eleven. Passing along
the strait which divides the island from the main

I.,

^ ^

240

JOURNEY OVKR THE ICE.

-.4.,

land to the southward, Toolemak pointed out two
assemblages of stone huts, to which, in the summer,
or more properly, when the ice breaks up, the na-
tives come in order to fish, and sometimes to kill
a whale or an unicorn. The weather was so thick
that we could not at times see a quarter of a mile be-
fore us, but yet went rapidly forward to the W.N. W.,
where, after about six hours run, we came to a high
bold land, and a great number of islands of reddish
granite, bold and barren in the extreme. We here
found the ice in a very decayed state, and in many
places the holes and fissures were difficult, if not
dangerous to pass. At the expiration of eight hours,
our impediments in this respect had increased to
such a degree as to stop our farther progress. Dunn,
the old man, and myself, therefore walked over a
small island, and saw beyond it a sheet of water,
which quite precluded any advance but by boats.
At three miles west of this were two bluff hills, se-
parated by an apparent strait of half a mile in width,
and beyond that lay a flat field of ice, over which was
land in the distance.

In the hope that the morning would prove more
favourable for our obtaining a view of the land, the
only advantage to be derived from our visit, since the
state of the ice prevented our reaching the fishing-
place, it was decided to pass the night on one of the
rocky islands. The Eskimaux, with their customary
improvidences having brought no provision with
them, I distributed our four days' allowance of meat
in equal proportions to the whole party, and they all

KONGOLEK.

241

lay down to sleep on the rocks, having merely a piece
of skin to keep the lain from their faces ; and in
this comfortless state they remained very quietly for
eight hours.

The morning of the 27th was rather fine for a
short time, or, properly speaking, the rain was less
violent ; and we saw above thirty islands in one
group, vc-rying from one hundred yards to a mile
in length : these I named the Coxe group. Two
deer were seen on the northern land (Khiad-la-
ghToo), and Toolemak accompanied Dunn in chase
of them : one was killed by the latter, as he informed
me, in consequence of the old man's lying behind
a stone, and imitating the peculiar bellow of these
animals, until it was led by its curiosity to come
witiiin a short gun-shot. We crossed with the sledges
in order to bring the deer down, and found that the
old man liad skinned and broken it up after his own
manner, and I divided it into shares. The entrails
and paunch I was about to leave on the plain, but
was reminded by the anxious looks which the natives
cast on these objects, that Crantz describes the latter
as a Greenland delicacy, where it is called '* ne-
roo-kji, or the eatable." I accordingly assigned
these choice morsels to young Kong-o-lek (scurvy
grass), who bore them off in triumph ; not, however,
until a few handfuls had been swallowed by his com-
panions. Arriving on the ice, a skin was taken from
the sledge for a seat, and we all squatted down to a
repast which was quite new to me. In ten minutes;

NEROOKA.

%■

the Eskimaux had picked every one of the deer*s
bones so clean, that even the hungry dogs did not
attempt to gnaw them a second time. Dunn and
myself, as an experiment, made our breakfast on a
choice slice cut from the spine, and found it so good,
that at dinner-time we preferred the same food to
our share of preserved meat, which we had saved
from the preceding night. The windpipe is exceed-
ingly good ; and I am confident, that were it not
from prejudice, raw venison might be considered as
a dainty.

Of the neroo-ka I also tasted a small portion,
considering that no man who wishes to conciliate or
inquire into the manners of savages should scruple
to fare as they do while in their company. I found
this substance acid and rather pungent, resembling,
as near as I could judge, a mixture of sorrel and ra-
dish leaves. The smell reminded me of fresh brewer's
grains ; and the young grasses and delicate white
lichen on which the deer feed, were veiy apparent.
Wishing to procure some salt-water to give a relish to
our venison, we found that although five or six miles
from the fishing-place (or river, as Toolemak called
it), the water was almost fresh in the broad fissures
amongst the ice. As we sat, I observed the moskitoes
to be very numerous, but happily incapable of tor-
menting, as they lay in a half-torpid state on the ice.

Coasting onwards about two miles, our sportsmen
went to the hills, while I obtained the meridian alti-
tude, which gave the latitude ^). 26. 48. N., the

SLEDGES.

western extreme of Igloolik bearing E.S.E. about
twelve miles. Soon after noon the weather became
as foul as ever, and I was unable to obtain sights for
the longitude ; we therefore set out on our return,
and without seeing any other object than the flat and
decayed ice, passed from land to land with our former
celerity j dashing through large pools of water much
oftener than was altogether agreeable to men whose
clothing had been wet for thirty or forty hours, and
who had not been warm for a longer period. We had
proceeded in this manner for above five hours, when
Kongolik, who was driving at the time, and paying
more attention to the nerooka which he was vora-
ciously eating, than to his dogs, upset us into a deep
hole, which broke the sledge, and gave us a complete
ducking. The vehicle being mended by our shivering
party, we again made boldly forward ; but our mis-
fortunes did not terminate here, for we were twice
again upset •, and, finally, the dogs broke the main
trace, and ran like a pack of wolves for the land.
A large block of ice at length entangled and stopped
them, and the Eskimaux soon brought them back,
when another hour, and some plentiful floggings to
the delinquents, brought us to the place from which
we had first set out.

This excursion had given me many opportunities
of observing the dexterity with which the sledges
and dogs are managed, and which I had never seen
to advantage at Winter Island. Our eleven dogs
were large and even majestic looking animals ; iiiul

u 2

I ">

244

DOGS.

,,5-"

ik'i

im old one of peculiar sagacity was placed at their
head hy having a longer trace, so as to lead them
through the safest and driest places ; these animals
having such a dread of water as to receive severe beat-
ings before they will swim a foot. The leader was
instant in obeying the voice of the driver, who never
beat, but repeatedly called to him by name. When
the dogs slackened their pace, the sight of a seal or
bird was sufficient to put them instantly to their full
speed, and even though none of these might be seen
on the ice, the cry of " a seal ! a bear ! a bird !" &c.
was enough to give play to the legs and voices of the
whole pack. It was a beautiful sight to observe the
two sledges racing at full speed to the same object, the
dogs and men in full cry, and the vehicles splashing
through the holes of water with the velocity and
spirit of rival stage coaches. There is something of
the spirit of professed whips in these wild races ; for
young men delight in passing each other's sledge,
and jockeying the hinder one by crossing the path.
In passing on different routes the right hand is
always yielded, and should an inexperienced driver
endeavour to take the left, he would have some
difficulty in persuading his team to do so. The
only unpleasant circumstance attending these races
is, that a poor dog is sometimes entangled and thrown
down, when the sledge, with perhaps a heavy load, is
unavoidably drawn over his body. The drivp»' sits
on the fore part of the vehicle, from whence he jumps
when requisite to pull it clear of any impediments

OOYAllKA'S TENT.

which may lie in the way, and he also guides it by
pressing either foot upon the ice. The voice and
long whip answer all the purposes of reins, and the
dogs can be made to turn a corner as dexterously as
horses, though not in such an orderly manner, since
they are constantly fighting, and I do not recollect
to have seen one receive a flogging without instantly
wreaking his passion on the ears of his neighbours.
The cries of the men are not more melodious
than those of the animals, and their wild looks
and gestures when animated, give them an appear-
ance of devils driving wolves before them. Our dogs
had eaten nothing for forty-eight hours, and could
not have gone over less than seventy miles of ground ;
yet they returned, to all appearance, as fresh and
active as when they firt set out.

We were joyfully wt3lcomed to Ooyarra*s abode,
where the place of honour, the deer-skin scat, was
cleared for my reception. His two wives occupied
one end of a double tent, while at the opposite ex-
tremity, the two aged parents, with the young bro-
ther and sister of his senior wife, were established.
The old mother, Now-kU-yoo, assisted the young
women in pulling off our wet clothes and wringing
our boots, which, being of Eskimaux manufacture,
she afterwards soled and mended without any request
on our parts, considering us as part of the family.
Our knapsacks and clothes^ being all wet, we gladly
turned into our blanket bags, which had been better
guanknl, before a dozen or two visitors of each sex.
Dunn slept in the little tent to watch our goods, and

24<>

FIHE.

I liad a small portion ol* Ooyarra's screened off for
me with seals' skins. Tired as I was, sleep was de-
nied me, as I was obliged, on the arrival of each new-
set of people, to answer their questions, as to how I
could possibly have got into the bag; the manner
in which I had wrapped it round me for warmth
leading them to suppose that I was sewed up in it.

My host and his wives having retired to another
tent, and my visitors at length taking compassion on
me, I went comfortably to sleep, but at midnight
was awakened by a feeling of great warmth, and to
my surprise found myself covered by a large deer
skin, under which lay my friend, his two wives, and
their favourite puppy, all fast asleep, and stark naked.
Supposing this was all according to rule, I left them
to repose in peace, and again resigned myself to rest.

A large assemblage was gathered on the 28th to
" hear me talk of Ne5o-ning-et-ua, or Winter Island,
and to see us eat." The women anxiously volun-
teered to cook for us, and as we preferred a fire
in the open air to their lamps, the good-natured
creatures sat an hour in the rain to stew some venison
which we had saved from our shares of the deer.
The fires are generally made of bones previously
well rubbed with blubber, and the female who attends
the cooking chews a large piece, from which as she
extracts the oil, she spurts it on the flame.

During the constant visits I received in the course
of the day, it was pleasing to observe the solicitude
expressed about the little tribe at Winter Island ;
and the bare mention of a name which was familiar

A BALL.

247

to my auditors, was sufficient to procure me the
warmest thanks. On speaking of the little party
with Ewerat, I had forgotten the name of one young
man. Every person tried in vain to assist my me-
mory, until an old woman came in and asked if it
was It-kam-mtik, or whether I had even heard of
such a person. I no sooner told her he was the
man, and on his way to Igloolik, than she ran about
the tent beating her head, and crying, " I am his
mother, I am his mother T* After noon, as 1 lay
half asleep, a man came and took me by the hand,
at the lauie time telling Dunn to follow. He led
me to a tent which, from the general silence within,
1 supposed was empty ; but on entering, I found
eighteen women assembled, and seated in regular
order, with the seniors in front. In the centre,
near the tent pole, stood two men, who, when I
was seated on a large stone, walked slowly round,
and one of them began dancing to the favourite
tune of Am-naa-ya a-ya in the usual manner.
For the second person I could not at first account,
but soon found that he was the dancer's assistant ;
and when the principal had pretty well exhausted
himself, he walked gravely up to him, and taking
his head between his hands, rubbed noses with him,
amidst the plaudits of all present. After this, as
if much refreshed, he resumed his performance,
occasionally however taking a koonik to enliven
himself and the spectators. The rubbee, if I may
use the expression, was at length led forward by the
rubber, who then rushed into the air to cool himself.

}i48

KOONIK.

I*' ' s

In this manner live ur six couples exhibited, obtaining
more or less applause according to the oddity of
their grimaces. At length a witty, greasy fellow,
in consequence of some whispering and tittering
amongst the ladies, advanced and koonlk'd nie, so
that I was obliged to stand up and have my nose
rubbed, to the great amusement of all present. My
turn being come, I exhibited a figure invented ex-
pressly for the occasion, and chose as my partner a
very pretty girl, which highly delighted the women,
and her old mother in particular. As this young
lady's education had not made her a great proficient
in dancing, she compromised by making faces and
crying the Magh-ma, in which accomplishments
she was very expert, and was assisted by the
whole of the other females. The men not being
yet weary, left it to me to call on fresh dancers, all
of whom I was obliged to challenge by a koonik ;
my only resource therefore was, to select such as
had the cleanest noses. Having been as patient as
they could wish for above an hour, and being quite
overpowered by the heat and vapour of the crowded
tent, I made a hasty retreat, after having distributed
needles to all the females, from the youngest of
whom I of course exacted a koonik in return. A
general outcry was now made for Dunn, a very
quiet north countryman, but he having seen the
freedoms which had been taken with my nose, had
very prudently made his retreat out of sight, anti-
cipating that it would come to his turn if he re-
niaincd. In the evening several kayaks went to kill

Hunks TV.

210

walruses, and while thoy were distant I observed
that they had taken a couple of* these animals. My
glass therefore underwent a general examination,
and all the tribe, even to the little children, took
their turns to peep through it. During a short in-
terval of fine weather we hung our clothes out to
dry, and the contents of our wet knapsacks, instru-
ments, beads, knives, &c. were left exposed on the
bare ground while we walked inland to shoot some
ducks. We cautioned no one against thieving, and
were so much at their mercy that every thing might
have been taken without a possibility of detection,
yet at our return not a single article was even moved
from its place, and I do not believe that it had en-
tered their ideas to touch the most trifling particle
of our property during our absence.

On the morning of the ^9th, I was really happy
to find that the ships were not yet in sight, as I should
thus be enabled to pass another day amongst the hos-
pitable natives, and still see them in their quiet state-
I soon discovered that an Eskimaux, when not agitated
by the pleasure of seeing us land from our boats,
and distribute presents, was quite a different creature
from what I had before supposed ; uttering no screams,
showing the utmost readiness to oblige, and being
to all appearance grateful for any kindness shown.
While making my rounds, I met with several others
of the natives who were also visiting, and who each
invited me to call at their tent in its turn. Wherever
1 entered, the master rose and resigned liis seat next

ill

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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Sciences
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WEBSTER, N.Y. M5S0

(716) 172-4503

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ii50

VlSITINti.

the wife or wives; himself standing before me, or
sitting on a stone near the door. I was then tohl
to speak, or in fact, to give a history of all I knew of
the distant tribe, which from constant repetition I
could now manage pretty well. In one tent I found
a man mending his paddle, which was ingeniously
made of various little scraps of wood and bone, lashed
and pinned together. He put it into my hands to
repair, expecting, as I was a kabloona, that I should
succeed much better than himself. An hour after-
wards, the poor fellow took me by the hand and led
me to his tent, where I found a large pot of walrus
flesh evidently cooked for me. His wife licked a piece
and offered it, but on receiving some hint from him
she took out another, and having pared off the out-
side, gave me the clean part ; and had it been carrion,
I would not have hurt them by refusing it. During
the showers of rain which fell frequently throughout
the day, the inmates of whichever tent I was detained
in, did all they could to amuse me. The men showed
some curious knots on their fingers, and other puzzles,
for which in return I exhibited the cat's cradle. The
little girls were very expert in a singular but dirty
amusement, which consisted in drawing a piece of
raw sinew up their nostrils, and producing the end
out of their mouths.

Visits appeared to be regularly interchanged be-
tween families, and whoever happened to be in the
tent, partook of such food as he saw at hand ; for
which purpose every man carries a long knife, used

THE WOMEN.

.^51

in the hunting excursions, in readiness to cut his
share of whatever is offered. A stranger to these
people would suppose, from seeing so many naked
weapons, that they were carried for such purposes as
some civilized Europeans use their knives for; but
the Eskimaux seem to have no idea of injuring any
part of the human figure except their own f ngers,
which they constantly cut most lamentably, by their
over anxiety to feed themselves. On the left hand
of a man, not above twenty years of age, I counted
sixty gashes ! These people also derive a peculiar
satisfaction from licking the blades of knives and
razors, from heel to point, at intervals, during meals,
or a pause in conversation, and the tongues of many
of them bore witness that this operation is not always
performed with impunity. Even little children were
allowed, while sitting naked in their mothers* hoods,
to flourish a razor about as if it were a piece of wood.
I remarked, that the want of proper and natural
curiosity which we regretted as existing amongst our
first friends, could not be laid to the charge of these
people, who put very rational questions respecting our
food, dress, country, wives, &c., and in a quiet way
awaited my answers. The women were particularly
inquisitive about their own sex ; and when I went so
far as to say, rather too boldly, " that they never wore
the breeches," a general cry was raised, " how cold
they must be \** and it excited equal astonishment
when I explained that they were so void of taste as
not to be tattoed. '

HKCLA AURIVKS.

:^'

The weather clearing in the afternoon, one ship
was seen in the distance, which diffused a general
joy amongst the people, who ran about screaming
and dancing with delight. While lounging along
the beach, and anticipating the arrival of the ship, I
proposed a game at leap-frog, which was quite new
to them ; and in learning which, some terrible falls
were made. The women (even those with infants)
would not be outdone by the men, and accordingly
formed a party of jumpers also. Tired with a long
exhibition, I retired to the tent, but was allowed a
very short repose, as I was soon told that all the
people from the southern tents were come to see my
performance; and on going out I found five men
stationed at proper distances, with their hands down,
for me to go over them, which I did amidst loud
cries of Ko6-yen-na ! (thank you.)

As the ship drew near in the evening, I observed
her to be the Hecla, but not expecting a boat at so
late an hour, I lay down to sleep. I soon found this
a vain attempt, for a clamorous party came drumming
on the leather sides of the tent, telling me a little ship
was coming ; and I soon found that the boat was nearly
on shore. Ooyarra's senior wife now anxiously begged
to kakeen a little mpr. on L^y arm, which she had no
sooner done thai, the youngest insisted on making
the same mark, and amidst the wildest cries and agi-
tation, they sat down with needle and thread to em-
bellish me. When the boat landed, a general rush
was made for the privilege of carrying our things

1.1

'yiiftlMf

UKTIJIIN ON nOAUU.

down to it. Awarunni, the girl who owned the
little dog which slept with me, ran and threw him
into the boat, when after a general koonik we pushed
off, fully sensible of the unremitted attentions of
these good tempered people. Toolemak and Ooyarra
came on board in my boat, in order to pass the night
and receive presents, and we left the beach with three
hearty cheers.

Having given such a long account of my adven-
tures, it may be requisite to turn to objects of more
importance to the expedition. I had found the ice
over which we passed, flat, unbroken, but much
decayed into holes. The general thickness was still
above a foot, and amongst the islands much greater,
owing to the packing incidental to the rise and fall
of the tides. Astronomical observations, or good
ideas respecting the lands, could not be obtained in
consequence of the weather, which, with the kind of
fiitality that had attended all my little excursions,
^vas more than usually severe and foggy.

Ooyarra, although he had been on board before,
came timidly up the side ; but Toolemak, who had
never seen a ship in his life, was quite at home in
a moment, shaking hands, slapping the backs, and
asking the names of all who were near him. My
visitors did not go to sleep like the other savages.

JOIN THK FUllY

'Wtfc

but never closed their eyes the whole night, rambling
about the decks to examine every thing, and being
pleased at having permission to work with the watch.

On the morning of the 30th I sent my guests on
shore, with presents to all my particular friends.
Some officers who went to the tents for the day, re-
turned in the evening but without Dunn, whom I
had sent to shoot ducks, he having, as they supposed,
rambled too far inland with one of the natives. A
strong breeze and thick weather prevented my send-
ing for him on the following day, and on the 1st of
August we beat up to the northward, found and
joined the Fury. Having communicated with Cap-
tain Parry, we again parted to run for the island
wliere I landed, and brought off our man, who had
been treated very kindly, and had received some pro-
visions which the officers had left for him.

During my little excursion, the ships had visited
the coast to the N.E., and landed on three or four
islands, on one of which were remains of a lai^e
Eskimaux settlement, answering exactly to Iligliak's
account ; in this the skulls of men and beasts,
broken weapons, utensils, &c. were lying scattered
about. Some were of opinion that this place had
been hastily abandoned, many effective articles being
found in the huts.

At night we rejoined the Fury, and beating up to
the northward, made fast to the edge of the ice near
a small isle, on the ^2nd. In the afternoon we killed

SCURVV t;RASS.

«r>5

a male walrus after a very animated fight. The marine
beef had now risen so highly in general estimation,
that the whole carcass was well disposed of.

On the morning of the 3n\ I accompanied Cap-
tain Parry to Tern Island, which is very flat, about
a mile in length, and having a lagoon in the centre.
The weather was fine, and our walk was ren-
dered interesting by finding quantities of the eggs
and young of the tern (sterna hirundo, Linn.), a few
eider ducks* nests, and above all, some scurvy grass
on the beach : of this we brought off a good quantity
for our respective crews, and boats were afterwards
sent for more. It would have amused a country-fed
Englishman to have seen the delight with which we
made away with some pounds of this stringy and wi-
thering vegetable, which although in seed, was still
valuable, as being the first full green meal we had
made since leaving home.

A large body of loose ice obliged us to make sail
in the evening; and again hanging on during the
4th, we made several attempts to strike one of the
numerous whales which were blowing near us, in the
open water. On the oth, however, the Fury's boat
got fast, and the other boats soon joining, I had the
pleasure of assisting at the death. Our prize was
towed to the Fury, where she was flinched, and each
ship had an equal share. She was called a pretty
little fish ; to give an idea, therefore, of the diminutive
creature, I here describe her dimensions :

l.'^^

mi ■

ii5G WHALE KILLKI).

Ft. III.
From the nose to centre of tail - - - - 38 9
The tips ii^uin project from the centre di-
vision .5

Extreme length of the fish 43 1)

Breadth of the tail from tip to tij) - - - 15 10
Broadest part of the head, which is hetween

the root of the jaw-bones 7 ''^

Nose to the root of the jaw-bone - - - 13 7

Longest blade of bone hi the mouth - - 9 1^^

Length of fin from tip to socket ... .5 j

Extreme breadth of the fin 3 3

Thickness of the blubber 10

Average thickness of the skin - . - - 1

The night of the 5th, and the whole day of the 6th,
were occupied in boiling a sufficient store of oil for
the winter, or winters, yet to be passed by lamp-
light. Whale steaks were now added to our list of
Arctic dishes. Great numbers of the white sort (del-
phinus leucas) were seen playing along the edge of
the ice, and they even approached the ships, but their
excessive timidity would not allow of our striking
one.

On the 7th we stood for Igloolik, the Fury having
the crang, or carcass of the whale in tow ; and in the
evening we pulled it in shore, and delivered the rich
gift to eleven Kayaks, who met us. The natives
instantly made a furious attack on the flesh, and we
left them eating, in order to row to the usual tent-

NKUMXAKTO.

ing-place, which we found deserted, and could see no
traces of the people. Returning on board we met
Toolemak, who had been one of the whale eating
party, and who informed us that the tents were
removed a short distance up the south side of the
island. On the following day this old man with an-
other came on board, and made some charts j in all of
which we clearly perceived that a passage must exist
somewhere to the N.W. The ice, however, though
now very thin, still held on with the greatest obstinacy,
and rendered us as inactive as we were impatient.
On the 1 1th we shifted to the fast ice, near an island
to the N.W. of Igloolik*: we here met with several
men and women, who, with twenty-six dogs, some
of which carried little panniers, had walked from
Igloolik for the purpose of catching brent geese,
which were very numerous, and beginning to moult.
They used nooses of whalebone for this purpose, and
had already taken a few. When walking across the
island, I surprised a flock of several hundred geese,
but unfortunately they were still able to fly. From
the southern shore I was enabled to obser- *; that
the whole of the ice I had passed over with Too-
lemak was still fast. While here, I was agreeably
surprised by seeing two fine bucks run before me,
and by using the Eskimaux stratagem of imitating
their bellow, was so fortunate as to entice and kill
one, which proved the best-conditioned we had yet
seen, having three inches of fat on his haunches.

* Nerlinakto.

QryH

LAllflK DKKn.

While bringing down our game, we saw tlic second
animal in the centre of a hike, surrounded by three
of our people, who liad wounded him, when Dunn,
with his usual success, despatched him. These ani-
mals were the first we had ever seen. The horns
of each had a thick covering of soft fur, and were
thirty inches high, from the crown to the top antlers.
Toolemak and some others came on board, and
remained till the evening, when they were sent on
shore. It soo!i after came on to blow hard from
the southward, with snow, hail, and rain, at in-
tervals ; yet in this bitter weather the poor Eski-
maux were full fifteen miles from home, and had
nothing to shelter them. The gale continued all
night, and the ice at this place being too thick to
allow of the ship forming a dock, we lay beating
very hard against it for several hours, under the
influence of a short swell. We now unhung the
rudder for its security, and at the expiration of
twenty hours became quiet, in consequence of a
large body of ice enclosing us from the southward.
Heavy rain fell without intermission during the 1 2th,
and great part of the 13th, on the afternoon of which
day we perceived the loose ice setting to the S. E. in
defiance of a fresh breeze from that quarter. This
circumstance tended still further to confirm our opi-
nion, that in addition to the regular tides, there was
a constant current setting from the westward, through
some opening in that direction. One of the officers
who visited the island brought off a white owl, ex-

K, >

CAPTAIN I»AiniY LEAVKS US.

259

actly corresponding in size and colour with the one
I had killed at Igloolik.

On the 14th, Captain Parry determined on setting
out over the western ice to the land in that quarter,
in order to have ocular proof that a sea actually ex-
isted immediately beyond it, as had been constantly
asserted by the Eskimaux; for although there was
no doubt of the truth of their reports, yet, as it was
of the utmost importance, he very properly deter-
mined on solving this interesting question himself.
The season had now advanced to a most alarming
period, strong ice having formed almost eveiy night
of calm ; the month of August was half expired, and
in this high latitude we could not expect to navigate
for many days in September. In case the summer
now past should have been an unfavourable one, and
the autumn not improved, we could hardly hope to
proceed much farther; and in waiting for favourable
openings, we might most probably be overtaken by
the winter. ,

Captain Parry was accompanied by Mr. Richards
and four men ; a fatigue party also attended for the
first stage, or day's journey. It was most fortunate
that a former overlapping of the floes had left an
additional thickness of ice, near where we lay, reaching
to the islands about seven or eight miles to the west-
ward. Along this they proceeded, as a passage over
the other ice would have been almost impracticable.

The weather was thick and unsettled on the 15th,
much snow falling; this continued on the l6th, when

2G0

STATK OF THE ICE.

we found large masses of ice driving down on us
from the N. W. The ships also moved with it, and
the thick weather prevented our finding any opening.
A short interval of light allowed us to obseiTe that
we were still off Ner-lt-nak-to, and in a small bight,
formed by two shoal points running off' from that
island, and having their position clearly defined, by
the quantity of grounded ice which lay on them.
In this unpleasant, and occasionally dangerous situa-
tion, we lay until the (20th, driving at each tide,
from thirty, into five and seven fathoms water, the
shoals alone preventing our being carried to sea, as
we hung on by a large floe which lay between them,
and shifted its place without the power of moving
outwards, the offing being filled with the immense
floes which came rapidly down from the westward.
We received, at times, some very heavy squeezes,
and were once very nearly laid on a rock, but for-
tunately held our ground while the same wind con-
tinued. On the 20th, the piece by which we hung
acquired a rotatory motion, and carried us fairly for
the beach ; but at the same moment another rmaller
floe filled the vacant space, and we still had a friend
between us and the land. The long desired south-
erly wind soon after came slowly round, and moved
us into deeper water ; relieving, for the first time,
the anxiety in which we had been for five days.
Good fortune seldom comes single, for at 6 p. m. we
saw Captain Parry's party to the S. W. they having
come down within the island, on the still unbroken

CAPTAIN PARRY RETURNS.

2(i\

ice. Had they commenced their return by the
route they pursued in going, they must have gone to
sea, and we couUl not have had tlie power of* sending
to assist them. They arrived on board at 10 p. m.
From Captain Parry 1 learnt that lie had discovered
a large opening to the \V. N.W., beyond which, as
far as lie could observe, there lay a clear sea, which
he considered as being the place laid down in all the
Eskimaux charts.

Our travellers had no sooner arrived on board,
than thick snow and gloomy weather came on, which,
had it occurred a few hours sooner, would have kept
us separate for some days. This fall continued
until the Sith j but, as we knew the position of the
land, we made a few miles of westing, and hung to
the edge of the fast ice until the evening of the
25th, when, after some difficulty in clearing the
Fury, which was beset, we made sail, and reached
open water under the northern land.

262

ENTER THE STKAIT OF

t.^""'

.s*--

CHAPTER VII.

Enter Strait of Fury and Hecla — Land journeys — State of the
season — Bears killed — Liddon Islr.nd — Amherst Island — Ex-
amine state of the ice — A cave — Extraordinary currents —
Seek winter-quarters — Igloolik — Ice-huts — An anchor lost —
Ships frozen in.

The morning of the 26th was fine, and favoured
by a light breeze, we ran with great anxiety for the
mouth of the new strait. Soon after noon we suc-
ceeded in passing the narrow entrance, which extended
about four miles east and west, and was formed by two
projecting head-lands. That on the left was high,
but of gradual ascent, perfectly smooth, and composed
entirely of beautifully variegated sandstone. The
width of the opening was from three to one mile,
and through this a most powerful tide or current was
rushing from the westward. On the left-hand shore
we found the soundings so extremely regular, that
we did not scruple to run close to it, in order to
avoid, as much as possible, the impetuosity of the
current. On each side, beyond the narrows, the
land was bold and mountainous, that to the left
being about three, while the right shore was fifteen

THE rUllY AiND HECLA.

263

miles distant. This latter range of mountains was
capped with snow, which was distinctly marked off
from the lower part of the land. At the distance of
about ten and twenty miles from the strait were two
islands. The most distant obstructed our view to
the westward, and a more serious stop was put to our
advance, by finding, that at the nearest we came
again to flat ice extending in every direction beyond
us. Into this, with a kind of desperation, we ran our
ships with all sail set, and forced a birth for them.
In running from the strait to this place, we were
warned of two dangerous shoals, on which a quantity
of heavy ice was piled, thus acting as a beacon ; for
although our leads were constantly going, it would
have been scarcely possible for both, or even one
ship, to have escaped running on the centre shoal.

On the 27th, parties landed on the southern
shore, and on the island, abreast the ships. We
each observed the same unpromising state of the ice j
no water was seen to the westward, and the northern
land was gradually lost in the distance, trending in
the direction of the strait. The night was stormy,
and thick snow fell. The wind settling from the
N. E. we found, on the morning of the 28th, that
the ice, amidst which we lay, was broken up for several
miles, and it was with difficulty that we extricated our-
selves from it. Guided by the hand-leads (for heavy
..iow still fell), we beat to the eastward, coasting the
northern shore from the narrows, and looking in vain

^64

LAND JOURNEY

for shelter. It was not until the evening of a very
anxious day, that we found anchorage under the lee
of the island, oflP which we had at first been stopped.
Captain Parry here came on board, in order that we
might communicate together respecting future opera-
tions. The season had now assumed so wintry an
appearance, that there seemed but little probability
of our getting much farther west. We knew of no
harbour to protect the ships, and unless a favourable
change speedily took place, we had the gloomy pro-
spect of wintering in, or near, our frozen strait.
It therefore became requisite to ascertain if any open-
ing had occurred in the ice to the S. E., or if there
was a possibility of getting west in any direction,
and at the same time following our instructions of
keeping the coast of America on board.

On the morning of the 30th, Mr. Palmer was
despatched in a boat to Igloolik, provisioned for nine
days, to examine the state of the ice near that island,
and, if possible,, to visit the place which Toolemak had
conducted me to. Mr. Reid, with a party, supplied
for three days, was to walk along the southern land
to the west, in order to ascertain with certainty the
continuance of the opening in which we were ; while
I had charge of a third expedition, to cross the moun-
tains in a due south direction, and, if possible, to
reach Khec-mig, my people having four days pro-
visions. We found the mountains deeply covered
by the recently fallen snow, yet we made about three

ifer^

IN THE MOUNTAINS.

265

miles direct, by crossing over the tops of those which
had no precipices. We now found the land increase
considerably in height, and it was so intersected by
lakes, as very frequently to oblige us to retrace our
steps, and painfully to toil up the same steep cliffs
which we had just before descended with difficulty.
The depth of the recently fallen snow was from
one to three feet, and of course where chasms
occurred, was much deeper. In such cases we
found it requisite to feel our way with pikes;
for had any person fallen into these holes, it would
have been impossible to extricate him. The ac-
clivity of some of the mountains was so great that
we were obliged to separate, in order to ascend
or descend : for had one of the party lost his footing
amongst the soft snow, or had a portion of rock
been detached, the consequences would have proved
fatal to those beneath. During this first day we
were eight hours thus situated, yet in the evening
found we had not made five miles direct from the
place whence we started. From the top of a moun-
tain we stood on, the water in which the ships^
were lying, and the grounded ice off Sandstone
Island, were discernible with the naked eye. We
pitched our tent under a small projecting crag,
where we passed a very cold night. On the morn-
ing of the 31st we set out at daylight, and with
hopes of better success, in consequence of our being
on the highest part of the range ; but having scrambled

26G

THE SEASON.

41'

to the distance of a mile, we found it necessary to
return again in order to avoid a long chain of lakes.
After three hours' exertion, we passed, as we sup-
posed, clear of them, but suddenly came on another
cluster of equal extent ; and to add to our mortifica-
tion, found that we had returned to within 500
yards of the place where we had slept on the pre-
ceding night. In descending a cliff, one of the men
lost his hold, but was fortunately arrested by a rock
which lay beneath the snow, and he received no
further injury than a severe contusion on the nose.
We had been half an hour descending this precipice,
first throwing down our knapsacks, but we had no
sooner reached its foot, than the discovery of fresh
lakes obliged us again to ascend. Finding it thus ab-
solutely impossible to proceed, and having in eleven
hours travelling made only five miles, I determined
on returning; and, as it was evident that we had
been traversing the highest part of the land, made
for the cocist where the walking would be easier.
. Seven hours' rapid walking brought us in sight of
the ships, and we pitched the tent near a small bluff,
on which some gulls were settled with their young.

Two hours more brought us on the 1st September
abreast the ships, and a boat being sent out, we
arrived on board at noon. The mountains over
which we passed were of granite and gneiss, and
many of them could not have been less than 1000
feet above the level of the sea. The longest chain

THE SEASON.

2G7

of lakes ran east and west about six miles, and from
their being very narrow and bounded by precipices,
must have been of considerable depth : there were se-
veral little bars with falls, and over some of these we
occasionally waded. In every lake was abundance of
solid ice, detached from the banks, and floating in
the water ; its thickness above the water was from
six inches to a foot, and there seemed but little
probability of its thawing farther, as young ice
began to form in such places as were sheltered from
the winds. Eveiy thing I saw in this short excur-
sion tended to confirm me in the opinion that
the past and present seasons had been more than
usually severe. Above all, the backward state of
vegetation was the most remarkable ; the delicate
yellow poppy was only now in full flower, and many
other plants had but just began budding. The
purple blossoms of saxifrage were scarcely burst,
and its leaves hardly discernible ; yet the country
being at this time deeply covered with snow in many
places, and the ground hard frozen, the commence-
ment of the winter's formation of ice threatened to
prevent all the plants from arriving at maturity. We
saw no living creatures, except some silvery gulls, a few
snow buntings, and a raven, which latter I observed
as it flew, to take repeated somersets, while soaring
downwards. Near the sea we found one solitary
Eskimaux circle, half buried and overgrown with
moss, so that many years must have elapsed since it

268

DEARS KILLED.

I**;.

had been used. There were no other signs of this
truly desolate coast having been ever visited*.

During our absence, a she bear and her two cubs
drove down to the Hecla on a small piece of ice,
and all three were killed. The mother was consi-
dered as small, and the young ones were about the
size of Newfoundland dogs : they were all very fat,
and their fur was of a silvery white. Captain
Parry informed me, that he had sent Mr. Crozier
in our small boat, with two men, to make observations
on the current in the strait. They were provisioned
for four days, but on that of my return, as it blew
hard from the N. W., another boat was sent with a
farther supply, and her officer was then to examine
the northern shore of the narrows. On the 2nd

* I was about to attempt describing the excessive dreariness
of these mountains which I had visited before the snow fell, but
recollecting a few lines which seemed almost made for the spot,
I was tempted to insert them.

" But here — above, around, below.

On mountain, or in glen.
Nor tree, nor shrub, nor plant, nor flower.
Nor aught of vegetative power.

The weary eye may ken.
For all are rocks at random thrown.
Deep lakes, bare crags, and banks of stone,

As if were here denied
The summer sun, the spring's sweet dew.
That clothe with many a varied hue

The bleakest mountain's side."

Lord ufthc Isles.

I.IDDON ISLAND.

SG9

ice,

I went to Liddon Island, wliich afforded us some
extremely interesting specimens; amongst others,
we found on the beach abundance of clay ironstone,
veined in a most beautiful manner ; asbestos in small
quantities, some delicate and thickly clustered cry-
stals of carbonate of lime, and an amazing variety
of fancifully marked and different coloured sand-
stone, of which the island was formed. Eleven deer
were seen. Mr. Reid's party came off at noon,
having in a great degree found the same impedi-
ments as I had met with. By keeping chiefly near the
foot of the mountains, he made about twenty miles
along the coast, which, however, gave him no better
view than could be obtained from the mast-head.
Captain Parry now determined on going back in a
boat to the eastward of the narrows, and from thence,
by crossing the land, endeavouring to reach the
place called Kheemtg. In the afternoon he set out,
taking ten days provisions for his crew, and two for
Mr. Crozier, who continued weather-bound.

On the 4th I landed on an island * about six miles
to the westward of the ships. Its beach, on which
ice lay grounded, was flat, and entirely covered with
most minute scales of black slate. The whole land
was of a different formation from any we had seen ;
the northern part being composed of black slate,
which lay in laminae easily to be detached j and most
of the pieces were curiously fluted, or had rounded
ridges of about a finger's breadth running over them.

* Amherst Island.

270

DIFFERENT PARTIES SENT

From the appearance of the ground, where some
chasms occurred, it was the opinion of one of the
seamen who accompanied me, and who was born
amongst coal mines, that coal must lie a short
distance below the surface. Farther, towards the
centre of the island, in a line intersecting it about
east and west, a new soil presented itself, being clay
and limestone in small amorphous masses, which had
the appearance of having recently been dug and
broken up from a thick loamy bed. The northern
or slaty half was entirely void of vegetation ; that to
the southward had, in the valleys or swampy places,
a very scanty covering of moss and shrivelled grass ;
on this we saw eight deer feeding, and I killed a
well-conditioned buck, whose four quarters weighed
131 lbs. This animal, as well as others of the herd,
was shedding the hairy covering of his horns, which
were quite bloody, and had many stripes of loose
skin hanging like streamers from them. Returning
to the boat, we found two Eskimaux circles, partly
sunk beneath the ground, and apparently long for-
saken. Messrs. Crozier and Ross had returned
during my absence, and their respective reports
were, that the first officer had been unable to make
any observations on the tide or current on which he
could place any dependence, owing to the prevalence
of a strong N. W. breeze, which might in some de-
gree have increased the rapid set continually coming
down from the westward : this also prevented his re-
turning on board. He had been picked up by Mr.

TO EXAMINE THE STATE OF THE ICE. 271

Ross, who found him in the strength of the current
driving fast to the eastward, and was towed on board
by the latter, after he had ascertained that the
nearest northern shore of the Narrows was an island.

On the 5th I sent an officer to walk across Am-
herst Island, in order to see if, by passing over it, a
party could make a shorter cut to the westward, and
avoid the impediments which Mr. Reid had met with.
His report being favourable, I was induced to send
Mr. Hoppner, with a boat's crew, provisioned for
seven days, to make such observations on the trend-
ing of the coast as the season would permit. A bear
was seen on the ice near the island, endeavouring by
stratagem to come unawares upon a seal j but on our
people approaching he made off.

At midnight on the 7th Mr. Palmer returned on
board, his party having been on their oars since four
A. M. It had been his intention to have stopped at
the Narrows, but while loading his gun it went off;
his fore finger and thumb were very severely lace-
rated, and several grains of powder which went into
his eyes quite blinded him for the time. One of the
people, however, afforded him great relief by licking
the powder from under the lids. The boat's crew,
like noble fellows, forgetting their fatigue, deter-
mined on conveying Mr. Palmer on board, strug-
gling for eight hours against wind and tide ere they
could effect it. The report of this excursion was
not more favourable than the preceding ones ; loose
ice, rapid tides, and a strong breeze, being the chief

272

MR. PALMERS RKTURN.

impediments. One night was passed on a piece of
floating ice, and three others on Ner-lt-nak-td, all
in consequence of being beset. During these deten-
tions, it was clearly ascertained that the ice to the
westward and southward of Igloolik still remained
unbroken. On Mr. Palmer's arrival at the latter
island, he found it impossible to make any way up
the strait which separates it from the main, in con-
sequence of the wind and sea. He accordingly
landed, and walking along the shore for about two
miles, found the firm ice stretching quite across. In
two other excursions inland he saw nothing of the Es-
kimaux, who probably had removed to Arn-koa-khtat,
a little settlement on the western end of the island.
He, however, observed many places which appeared to
have been recently quitted, and along the beach were
some hundred piles of stones, ear^ covering the car-
cass of a walrus, or a store of blubber. He also found
a grave at the distance of a mile from the sea, and in
it was the body of a child of about eight or ten years
of age. It lay with the face upwards, and the head
to the N. £. was decently dressed in good deer-skin
clothes, and the hood of the jacket was up as if the
child had been alive. A large seal-skin, deprived of
the hair, was carefully spread over the whole figure,
and tucked in on all sides. The body was so slightly
covered with light shingle, that a fox or any smaller
animal might easily have got to it. Near the grave
were four piles of stones, under the first of which was
laid a fragment of red cloth and a piece of black silk

PARTIKS UKTCrUN.

«73

handkerchief; the second covered a pair of the i>oor
child's boots and mittens, and each of the other two
contained a whalebone pot.

Before leaving the island, Mr. Palmer saw four
large birds resembling our English bustards, and
some swans also. After a repetition of the same
struggles as he had before made, he arrived on board,
having found that it was impracticable, either by
boats or water conveyance, to examine any part of
the land S. W. of Ig-18o-lik.

In the afternoon of the 7th Mr. Hoppner re-
turned, having been about thirty miles west of the
ships, but was not able to pass round the end of the
southern land, owing to my having limited him to
time, and not wishing to be detained on his account,
in case Captain Parry should have obtained informa-
tion which required us to move. The coast still
gave the same indications of a continuance of the
strait. A wolf, two foxes, and a bear, were seen. In
the evening Captain Parry returned, and I learnt that
he had seen the place, or a portion of it, visited by me
with Toolemak. From the insignificance of this little
bight, it was not to be re«jrretted that he had found
the way by which the s ips must have reached it
entirely filled with unbroken ice. It was now but too
clearly asceitained that we were in the most western
open water, and all hopes of an alteration in our
favour were at once checked by the state of the
season. For some days the weather had been very
fine and clear, and young ice formed so strongly in

274

A CAVF.

7 .

the holes amidst the floe that we skaited on it daily.
On the forenoon of the 8th we ran to the extreme
end of the water, and made fast abreast of Amherst
Island, from whence we could command a better
view of the strait.

Landing on the Qth I walked round the island.
In the western ice several cracks were open, but the
only lane of any magnitude lay about three miles
ahead of the ships, and extended to the northern
land. I found the island to be about eight or nine
miles from east to west, and Hvc or six in breadth.
On coasting back to the boat, 1 found a most fairy-
like grotto in a small cliff of black and rugged slate,
through which the water as it oozed had formed
most brilliant icy stalactites of some feet in length ;
these hung in the front of the cave in a variety of
fanciful forms over a small basin, which was frozen
as smooth as the most polished mirror. The sun
shone full, but powerless, on the silvery icicles, which
formed a beautiful contrast with the shaded part of
the ebon grotto behind them. I cannot properly
describe the effect of this dazzling scene, but it cer-
tainly was the most delicately unnatural cavern I
had ever beheld. Returning to the ship we found
the young ice so thickly formed during the day, that
it was with difficulty we forced our way through it.

In the afternoon of the 10th, Messrs. Reid and
Bushnan, with a party of men provisioned for seven
days, left the ships to walk along the foot of the
northern land, and to obtain one more view of the

KXTUAOUDINAHY I I'HH. IS.

7">

strait, and if possible to reach or ascertain its termina-
tion in the main ocean. Tlie weatlier was clear and
fine, which was much in r heir liivour. For some days
repeated attempts had been made l)y hoats,- by patent
logs, and various contiiiancos thim the ships, to
ascertain the actual state oi the tides or currents
whicli set from under the ice ; but t)ie results merely
tended to prove them extraordinary, and out of the
usual nature of these phenomena. That there was
a prevailing set from the westward we had long
known, even before entering the strait ; and we saw
by the driving of the loose ice against an easterly
wind, that it ran with great force ; yet, at the same
time, the log seldom or ever gave any signs of cur-
rent on the surface. That there was a wonderful
under-current was without a doubt, as two deep sea
leads lashed together were always, while near Amherst
Island, swept from the ground and carried off, some-
times east, sometimes south-east, as fast as we chose
to give them line, which of course assisted to lift them
the more readily, according to the quantity exposed
to the sweep of the current. As an extraordinary
instance in point, the Hecla broke adrift on the
13th, in consequence of a piece of ice parting, and
was carried against a fresh easterly breeze, about a
mile from the fast floe. All sail being set before
the wind, we were nearly two hours in recovering
this one mile, though to all appearance, and by the
log, going between three and four knots through the
water. If the wind slackened a little, and we did

T 2

S76

THE STRAIT EXAMINED.

L*'

not go above two knots, we went fast astern by
marks in the land; yet, without any difficulty, a
boat, as drawing less water, could have run over the
same space in a few minutes. For two days a strong
N. W. wind blew, and brought with it a great deal
of snow.

On the 15th, in the evening, Mr. Reid and his
party returned, all quite well. They had travelled
about sixty miles to the westward, had ascertained
the termination of the strait, and had seen a vast ex-
panse of unbroken sea ice in continuation of that
to which the ships were fast. Traces of Eskimaux
were found along the coast, and they discovered like-
wise a very pleasant little inlet. No doubt now re-
mained of our being in the only navigable entrance
(of course I mean if unimpeded by ice) to the Polar
Sea, immediately round the N. E. point of America,
which, from its appearance, breadth, set of the cur-
rent, and other circumstances, was a discovery of the
highest interest, though the nature and thickness
of the ice which filled it gave a sad check to our
sanguine hopes of a passage. Under all these cir-
cumstances, and considering the time of the year.
Captain Parry addressed letters to the two senior
lieutenants and myself, to ask our opinion as to what
should be attempted for the advantage of the service
during the few days the sea might still continue open.

On the 19th, a general memorandum from Captain
Parry was read to the officers and crews; stating
that, having taken the advice of the senior lieute-

WK LEAVE THE STRAIT.

277

by
I a
the

Hants and myself, he had decided on leaving the
strait, and, as far as the ice would peimit, examining
the north-eastern land ; finally, seeking a birth near
Igloolik, in which to secure the ships for the winter :
thus, by being farther to the eastward, having an
opportunity of being sooner disengaged, so that we
might examine the northern lands before the strait
would again be open to receive us.

At noon we got under sail; but the Fury was
some hours before she could be cleared, the young
ice having fonned so thickly round her as to bear
being walked upon. We ultimately towed her out
with a hawser, and then ran down the strait, an-
choring for the night off the S. E. end of Liddon
Island.

At daylight, on the 20th, we again made sail, and
worked continually for thirteen hours before we could
get through the narrows, although the wind was
fresh in our favour. Contrary to all we had before
observed, the tide now ran to the westward, and
against a westerly wind. This filled the strait with
young ice, now very thick and tough, which fre-
quently stopped us in the centre of a field, and drove
us with all sail set wherever the currents or eddies
were the strongest. Boats were hung from the bow-
sprit and bows, in order to break the floes ; but they
did little good, as the ice was in many places suf-
ficiently strong to bear them and their crews; it
being, as I have before observed, the peculiar pro-
perty of salt-water ice to bend, but not to break;

27a

WE LKAVK THE STRAIT.

and holes made in it when young are burst through
as easily as a pencil may be pushed through common
blotting-paper. At one time, while fixed in a moving
floe, one of the men employed on it was almost swept
from us, and Providence alone saved him from the
danger : he merely caught the bare end of a rope
which we threw him, and in the instant was dragged
through some soft ice at the very moment the ship
bef;an to acquire way. On getting through, we
found the sea open, and remained under sail during
a very dark night. We had now been sixty-
five days struggling to get forward ; but, though
we had suffered the anxieties and difficulties of a
long voyage, we had only in that time reached about
forty miles to the westward of Igloolik. For twenty-
five days we had awaited the breaking up of the ice
in the strait, and now left it almost as we had found
it ; considering ourselves fortunate in getting clear.
We were aware that another twenty-four hours would
have sufficed to fix us there ; and the shortest period
of detention in this most desolate place must have
been above eleven months, which would have been
to us as so many years. Not a living creature would
have blessed our sight, even in the spring ; for the
continual ice forbade the approach even of ducks,
and the dreary lands would only arrest the deer for a
few days in their passage to and from better pas-
turage. We thanked God that it was possible to
pass a comparatively comfortable winter in the arctic
regions, and that we could even rejoice at the idea of

ANCHOR AT KJLOOIJK.

270

being fixed in a part where we could walk on the
shore, and procure game in the summer.

After beating up to the eastward for some hours,
we anchored, on the afternoon of the 21st, under the
lee of Tern Island. Weighing on the morning of
the 22d, with the wind from the south-east, we
worked along the north-eastern shore ; but a gale
rising, we again returned, and sought protection
under the island. It blew very hard throughout the
night, which was very dark. The weather moderated
on the morning of the 23d, but was still so unsettled,
that we could not venture out in consequence of the
continual fall of snow. Both ships, however, shifted
into deeper water; and the Fury, on weighing,
found that her best bower anchor had lost a flue.
We supplied her with a spare anchor. At near mid-
night the wind blew fresh from the north-west, di-
rectly on to the little island, which obliged us to weigh,
though it was so dark, that we could not see a quarter
of a mile before us.

On the 24th, having found the sea so full of ice
that it would have been highly imprudent to remain
longer in the offing, we anchored just within the
entrance of the little strait which divides IglooHk
from the main, intending to remain somewhere near
that position for the winter. We now perceived that
the natives had come to reside at the bone village.

On the 25th, I landed to visit my old acquaint-
ances, and found their huts in a most filthy state,
owing to the mildness of the weather, and to their

*y^Mw—«^w^

J280

THE BONE HUTS.

L^-

internal warmtli: the water was dropping from the
roofs, the ice had melted on the floors, and the
juices of thawing and half-putrid walrus flesh, with
other watery inconveniences, had made large sloppy
puddles in the low entrances, through which we were
obliged to crawl on our hands and knees. None of
these bone houses were roofed over, but their tops
were covered by transparent skins, so that no air could
penetrate, yet at the same time sufficient light was
admitted. In the largest of the buildings were six-
teen grown persons and several children, arranged
in families, each of whom occupied a very elevated
bench; so that, on entering the hut, all their feet
were on a level with our heads, the door being at
the bottom. It required a tolerable share of activity
to climb up to the family we might have wished to
visit, the slope from their feet to the base of the
edifice being rendered extremely slippery by the
before-mentioned fluids. At a more advanced state
of the season, the cold of course acts as a sweetener
and drier to the interior of these dwellings. Round
the sides of each family seat a kind of curtain of
seals' skins was pinned against the sooty walls, a
mark of decency I had scarcely expected to see. I
cannot, however, avoid mentioning a curious fact,
that a people so dirty in all their habits as the Eski-
maux should have the greatest abhorrence of soot.
In various instances, in the summer, I had seen
them, while in their tents, carefully pick out the
most minute pieces of shingle which had come in

ICE HUTS.

!281

con act with their cooking-pots, and throw them
away. During the few days also that I was sojourn-
ing with them, if the slightest mark of soot was left
either on my fingers or their own, a bird's wing and
a little saliva were instantly applied to rub out
the stain. As the bone huts could contain but a
small portion of the tribe, there were several others
constructed of fresh water ice, which even exceeded
in beauty the snow houses I have long since de-
scribed. Large slabs of transparent ice were arranged
in somewhat an octagonal form, as the walls of the
building and their joints were carefully plastered
with snow. The roofs of some were as yet of skins,
but others had the regular dome tops of snow. Too-
lemak's dwelling was a perfect octagon, and so trans-
parent, that even at some paces distance it was pos-
sible to distinguish those who stood within it one
from the other; yet, at the same time, it was so
completely air tight, as to be perfectly warm. The
door or hole of entrance was low down, and protected
by a passage of the same pure material as the hut.
His canoe was placed near at hand, bottom up,
on two walls, each formed of a single slab of ice
about five feet high ; and his whole establishment
was neatly and certainly very commodiously arranged.
All the Eskimaux had numerous families of young
puppies, and each litter was carefully sheltered, by
having a small ice house built for its reception, and
roofed in, so that the mothers leapt to them over a
low wall, which her young ones were unable to pass.

Hti2

IMPllOVIDENCE Oi" THE NATIVES.

These nurseries were as transparent as the other
buildings; and the fat little puppy dogs lay with
their parents as if enshrined in a glass case.

The people were all very ill clothed ; in fact,
many of them had but one jacket, and that so greasy
within and without, as to afford little or no warmth.
They all complained that they had killed but few
deer to supply them with skins, having sold many of
their bows to the Kabloona; and we also fancied
them to say that the summer had been an unfavour-
able one. Both sexes, however, appeared to have
been well fed during our absence, for they were in
excellent case, and had a more than usually tanned
appearance. For this I could not account, as the
summer in this climate would scarcely have effected
such a change. With their usual improvidence they
still offered their few remaining bows for sale, as
being now of no use ; yet we knew that in the spring
their desire to repossess them would be carried to the
same length as their wish in the winter to dispose
of them. Some salmon trout, six or eight inches in
length, were purchased, and, as we learnt, were
caught in the lakes on the island.

On the 26th Captain Parry left us for a few days,
intending a boat excursion to the western land.
Soon afterwards a large body of ice began to enter
the strait from the seaward, which induced me to
carry the ships about three miles to the westward,
under the shelter of a little point, on which stands
the summer settlement of Oo-Io6-khiat. We found

■•*,

MANNEK or riSHING.

283

one family still there ; and on the 27th the master of
it accompanied me round a bay, which was near us,
in order to show me the place where the trout were
caught, which was a lake of a mile or more in cir-
cumference, partly frozen over. We soon joined
two lads who were fishing on the ice : each attended
at a hole, where, with a small piece of string attached
to a short bone-handle, he continually bobbed a small
ivory model of a fish. This, from its glaring white-
ness, is employed to attract others, and while exa-
mining the strange figure, they are struck by the
fisher with the kakeeway (or little nippers), and
thus impaled. This process appears to require the
greatest patience, for in half an hour I only saw one
fish taken, and it was the first since daylight ; yet
the boys will sit quietly on their heels for a whole
day at this occupation. An ivory fish which I pur-
chased was neatly formed, about three inches long,
and having the eyes made of small lumps of iron
pyrites. The boys informed me, that beyond the
lake was a herd of deer grazing, but being unarmed
I did not seek for them. I bought at the hut a few
trout, and found them most delicate eating ; their
flesh was of a fine pink colour.

Snow and thick weather had prevailed for some
time, and were on this day accompanied by a fresh
northerly wind. Captain Parry returned at noon,
having examined a considerable portion of the land
to the westward, which was clear of ice. An officer
who was on shore this day had, with several Eski-

AN ANCHOll LOST.

li" .

niaux, two dogs to tow him through the deep snow
which had recently fallen.

We anxiously awaited the forming of the winter
floe, but as we lay in a tide-way, no young ice of any
importance was perceived until the 3d ; it then formed
fast, and rendered our anchorage very unsafe, as a
continued N.W. wind drove it past us, and caused a
heavy strain on our cables. For three or four days,
therefore, we warped ahead, as the ice offered « occa-
sional openings, and endeavoured to get under the
land, so as to leave a smaller space for the loose ice
to form in ahead of us, and thus escape considerable
pressure. In this state we remained with the ice
thickening daily, and in suspense as to whether we
should have the good fortune to escape being carried
to sea.

On the 8th, the Eskimaux first began to come off
to us on the young ice, even though it was still fre-
quently in motion, feeling their way with spears, and
exposing themselves to such imminent danger, as to
cause a shuddering in all who looked at them. It is
their custom, when walking in this manner, to extend
their legs as far as possible, scarcely lifting their feet,
but sliding them along the ice, which, being of salt
water, bends like leather. The pressure was so much
increased on the 9th, that we drove wherever the ice
chose to carry us, and on weighing, we found that
we had lost the shank and crown of the best bower.
This was the fifth anchor which was broken in the
two ships, and we were of course much distressed by

ICE BECOMES STATIONARY.

a85

BIIOW

inter
any

hmed
as a

kd a

it, two only now remaining to each of us for our
future operations.

In a day or two after this, some women and young
boys came off to us, their curiosity to see the sliips
conquering their fears of the still moving ice. I
however sent them back immediately, and perceived
that they were only just in time to reach the shore
before the ice they had walked over separated, and
ultimately drove out to sea : such is the temerity or
stupidity, I know not which to call it, of these people.

An easterly breeze on the 12th brought the ice in
such quantities, that it packed, or overlapped, very
thickly ail the day, and until the evening of the 1 3th,
when it became, as we hoped, quite stationary ; but
at night it again opened ahead of the Hecla, and
we drove to a short distance with it, when, not know-
ing its thickness, we let go one anchor which was
hanging under foot, and veered to seventy-two fa-
thoms on the chain cable, hoping it would force her
through, as it had done before ; but on the 14th, at
daylight, we were surprised to find that between the
crack and the ship, the ice had overlapped to the
extraordinary thickness of from 7 feet 9 inches to
3 feet 9 inches, each layer, as we afterwards found,
not being above two or three inches strong.

g86

CHAPTER VIII.

Annatko— A man beats his wives — Geographical intelligence —
Strangers arrive — White wolf — Sun leaves us for forty-two
days — Toolemak's hut — Christmas-day — Distresses of the
natives — Effect of the climate.

All having been quiet for three days, the Fury's
people were sent to assist in sawing us up to our
anchor. The first day's work cleared about twenty
feet only, as it was an extremely laborious operation,
it being requisite to lift each piece out on to the
main floe as soon as it was cut, owing to the rapid
freezing of the water.

On the 18th our united strength hove the anchor
home, with seventy-two fathoms of chain, by sheer
force, and we thus recovered these lost treasures.
We continued cutting until the 22d, in the hopes
of getting nearer the Fury and the shore, from the
latter of which we were a mile distant ; but we found
that in five days not above one ship's length had
been cut and cleared ; the attempt was therefore
given up, and the hands all sent to the Fury, who
lay next a thin floe not far from us, in order to cut
her through it.

ARCTIC -COACHES.

From the Eskimaux we learnt that, on the { -,
ceding day, two of them had attacked and killed a
she bear. A couple of wolves had been seen near
the ships, in fact almost within shot.

I found that the huts were now all neatly lined
with seals* skins, so sewed as exactly to fit their
dome-shaped roofs. This gave them a most com-
fortable, and in some few cases, a clean appearance,
but had made them warmer than was agreeable even
to their inhabitants, all of whom, in the largest bone
hut, were sitting stripped to their breeches, and en-
veloped in a dense smoke which exhaled from their
bodies. Near the village I found a boy in chase of
a large covey of about fifty ptarmigan, which were
so tame as to allow him repeatedly to advance within
ten paces, and discharge his arrows at them ; but he
was, fortunately for the birds, a very bad shot.

The distance from the Fury to the huts was about
five miles, and the officers of each ship always found
the Eskimaux veiy ready to carry them on their
sledges, but never forgot they were to receive a pre-
sent for doing so; and as the demand was raised
veiy speedily, we foresaw that the fare for a place in
the arctic long coaches would, in the end, become
rather exorbitant.

On the 25th we heard of three more bears bavins:
been killed. It-kam-miik, one of the travellers from
Winter Island, arrived on board : he had reached
Igloolik the preceding day, and the others of his
party were following him from Amityook, near which

^88

KEWERAT ARHIVES.

.-JL

place he informed us that Togorlat's unhappy child
had died. The traveller, who in the Hecla we had
generally considered as half-witted, inarched on board
with a most confident air of freedom, walked below,
shook hands with all his friends, drew a chair, poked
my fire, and assumed the consequence of a person
who finds himself quite at home, while the poor Ig-
loolik people gazed on him with the greatest asto-
nishment and admiration. I however really believe,
that with all the very excusable display of his inti-
macy with us, the poor creature was sincerely glad
to be once more with the Kabloona.

In one of my visits to the huts, I observed a young
girl (Sheega) rocking herself from leg to leg as if
nursing an infant, and on asking the cause, she very
innocently produced from her hood a large roll of
deer-skin, having one end rounded and dressed in a
linen cap, bordered with red fiannel, which she told
me was her little child. This was the first and only
instance I met with of the young Eskimaux girls
amusing themselves with dolls ; for the small clothed
figures which we had purchased of them were in-
tended to represent men and women, and a couple
of dozen of them would not have equalled Sheega*s
plaything in bulk.

On the 28th Eewerat's party arrived at Igloolik,
and KocTilTttiiik, with Arnalooa, came to the ships :
they recollected all our names, and took some pains
to show tliat they had not forgotten all their En-
glish. The lady was nnich altered in a])pearance,

AlCOUNT OF AN ANNAIKO.

:.'«<)

ami rather sulky, vvliich slie afterwards attributed to
the trouble sho'experienced f'roui an eruption on her
arms, j^enerally supposed to be the itch. Kluoonfi-
bVeVs child, '» hich had been Tor some time unwell,
died on this tlay.

Ooyarfi slept on board, and attbrded us nnich
amusement ah\ information on some interesting
points. He was the lirst who even voluntarily and
fully described the exhibitions of an annatko ; and
gave us a long account of the deceptions practised
by Toolemak, who certaiidy appeared to be a person
of some consideration in his tribe. 1 could not learn
if the incantations he described were performed to
avert any misfortune, or for the relief of a sick per-
son ; but the story, with appropriate action, was com-
menced by our narrator's rushing into my cabin with
a drawn knife, which we were to suppose quite
bloody, in consequence of having stabbed an evil
spirit. We held him as he desired, while he strug-
gled and breathed with great difficulty, at the same
time telling us that a real conjuror would require
a great many men to secure him. Having disarmed
him of the knife, which he had held very firmly, one
of the party licked the blood from it ; the lamp was
then extinguished, and the cleaned knife was placed
beneatii it. All being dark, a large company was
seated round in the hut, when the conjuror crouched
on the floor, and after various noises and repeatedly
blowing, his voice gradually retired to a distance;
but after some time, was again faintly heard from

290

FURY TAKKS HER STATION.

below, approaching nearer and nearer, until at length,
with a loud yell, he arrived once more on the floor
of the hut, where he fell into strong convulsions.
Lights were then brought, the knife was taken
from beneath the lamp, and again found covered
with blood of Torn-ga. This was licked by the
wizard himself, who now gradually recovered; and
it was not a little extraordinary that, instead of letting
the blood go down his throat, he swallowed it under
the tongue. The exhibition at length ceased, and
the exhausted sorcerer was indulged with something
good to eat, the general termination of all Eskimaux
assemblies.

Ooyara showed us the manner of procuring fire by
the friction of a pin of wood in the hole of another
piece, and pressed down like a drill from above.
The motion is given by a bow made of leather,
stretched on a piece of the rib of an animal, or a
deer's horn, in the manner of our cutlers' drill-bows :
the flower of the willow being the tinder. We had
never before seen this method put in practice, and
he informed us that he had learned it from his
father, rather for amusement than for utility; the
two lumps of iron pyrites certainly answering the
purpose a great deal better.

On the morning of the 31st the Fury had arrived
within about 300 yards of the shore, in five fathoms
water, the whole distance cut being 4343 feet, which,
in addition to the space she was removed from us at
first, now made her about a mile's walk. The car-

OBSERVATORY BUILT.

291

penters were forthwith set to build a house for an
observiitory ; winter orders were issued, and we went
on the same allowance of provisions and fuel as in
the preceding winter. In order to establish a re-
gular communication between the ships, messengers
were appointed to pass between them six times a
day ; and for the security of any persons who might
be caught in a snow storm, there was a line stretched
from the Fury's bow to ours, and supported by pil-
lars of snow of the height of a man.

Eewerat, Togorlat, and their little child, paid me
a visit, and really appeared delighted at seeing us all
again. These poor creatures and their little party
while actually travelling must have gone through
great hardships ; for, having found no people at
Amityook, they had but two dogs to draw the whole
of their heavy load.

On the 2nd, Toolemak and his wife visited me,
and I had the pleasure of witnessing one of his ex-
hibitions as a conjuror, which quite equalled all I
expected. He also gave me some very curious and
interesting accounts of their superstitions, in which
he only affected to believe, while his tribe really
did so. Of these, and other anecdotes of the
same nature, I shall speak more fully when treating
of the mythology of these extraordinary people.
Amongst other news received at Igloolik from the
newly-arrived families, the old man gave me a full
account of my two expeditions at Winter Island j
the first, when we so narrowly escaped being frozen

292

TOOLEMAK.

to death ; the second, my pretended journey to
Amityook. From these and other little histories I
was fully convinced that, though to all appearance
insensible of what is going forward amongst us, the
Eskimaux really pay great attention to what passes,
and, as in the present instance, relate their adven-
tures with great truth and spirit. The names of all
the kabloona who were most generally known were
so interwoven with their stories, as to give me great
hopes that those families who had travelled to Re-
pulse Bay and the Wager River might, by commu-
nication with the southern tribes, be the means of car-
rying accounts of the expedition to the factories of
the Hudson's Bay Company.

One of the seamen, who with some of his mess-
mates was at the village, had a toe severely frost-
bitten, but instantly found a friend in Toolemak,
who led him to his hut, supplied him with a warm
pair of fur boots, and sat above an hour chafing and ex-
orcising his foot. When after a time our people set out
to return on board, Toolemak observed that his patient
was still lame, and calling them all back, caught his
dogs and drove the whole party down to the ship,
although the night was setting in. In order to make
some return for so much politeness, I detained my
atata on board, and gladly spread a skin for him be-
fore my fire. As usual, he was full of anecdote, and
I learned from him the first instance of sudden pas-
sion which had occurred to our knowledge amongst
his countrymen. His account, which was afterwards

MATRIMONIAL DISPUTE.

293

fully confirmed by the parties themselves, was of a
man named Shee-ra-ghioo, whose general character
stood high with us. It appeared that his two wives,
both of whom were the mothers of grown men, had a
serious quarrel on account of the love they bore him,
or of jealousy at some marked preference he had
shown to one alone. Whatever the cause, he was
present during the altercation, and they fought
across him, scratching faces and tearing each other's
hair, which so irritated the object of their conten-
tion, that he seized the large knife of his eldest son,
chopped one lady in two places across the back of
her hand, and cut a deep gash, so much so that it
required sewing up, along the forehead of the other.
His rage then subsiding, he rushed out of the hut,
put the knife under a large stone, and broke it to
pieces.

During the night I heard a loud scratching under
the counter, and on the morning of the 13th it was
found that the wolvos had torn down and partly
eaten the carcass of a dog which had been hanging
to the stern.

We had of late been much interested in collecting
accounts of a distant tribe of Eskimaux, respecting
whom our curiosity had been excited by one of Too-
lemak's evening stories to me. The sum of the in-
formation obtained was, that ten days to the north-
ward of Igloolik was a place called Too-noo-negh,
at which a great number of people constantly re-
sided. It was situated in a deep bay, river, or

294

INTERESTING INFORMATION

.'^;'

inlet. Whales were very abundant near it, and
three kabloona ships had come there two or three
years before to catch them. One of these ships
went away, but the two others came and communi-
cated with the natives and made them presents : they
then sailed out to sea.

The Eskimaux, of late years, had seen several
ships killing whales ; and, as a proof that such was
their occupation, had frequently procured the krang
or carcass, from which the Europeans had cut the
fat. Icebergs (peeka-loo-yttng) were frequent off
the coast, and were of an immense size. The sea
produced unicorns and walruses, though the latter
were not so numerous as at Igloolik. A most re-
markable and interesting difference of costume also
existed with the distant tribe; which was, that in
the summer the women wore no breeches, but, like
the females of the Savage Islands in Hudson's strait,
used as a substitute a kind of thigh drawers, which,
fitting close, had a contrivance something like the
false sleeves of grocers, drawn up to meet them, and
fastened at the waistband ; the whole arrangement,
however, was insufficient to cover them completely,
and the lower part of the stomach, with a portion of
the thighs, was exposed to view. We, on the other
hand, were confident that along the coast of America,
from the Wager River to Igloolik, regularly-made
breeches and enormous boots were the invariable
dress of the women. There were also two other
peculiarities to be remarked ; the first of which was,

OF A NEW TIIJBK.

295

and

three

[ships

luni-

they

that the northern people wore their hair in a knot
on the crown of the head ; while the tribes of our
acquaintance had a custom of arranging it in two
tooglce-gii or pigtails, one hanging on each side the
face. The second was, that the kakeen or tattoe of
the females differed materially on the hands, arms,
and chin. Of this we had convincing proof in two
women, a mother and daughter, who, with their
families, had a few years before come to settle at
Igloolik. The whole of two other families, with
whom I spoke, had left their home a year or two
before the ships came to their country ; but the news
was obtained from some of the tribe who had ar-
rived only the preceding year, and ivho had again
left Igloolik.

It appeared that four days must be passed in
crossing over salt-water ice before travellers arrived
at the land, and they then performed the rest of the
journey on shore. One of my chief informants on
these interesting subjects was a man called Mang-
il-ya, the brother of old Kettle.

On the l6th. Captain Parry visited me with a
fine team of dogs, which he had purchased from the
Eskimaux ; and much to the credit of their former
masters, they stipulated, when selling them, that
they should not be killed, as had been done in two
instances by some of our people. In one of these
cases, the man who bought the dog asked the native
who sold it to assist him in skinning it when dead,
and for that purpose put a knife into his hand ^ but

^1}{)

A MAlJllIACiK

If,

li-

the poor fellow, with a nobleness of feeling whieh I
should not have supposed in his nature, threw it
from him, and, without answering a word, walked
away in contempt.

Young Too-loo-ak, of the Winter Island tribe,
arrived from Amityook ; at which place he had left
his father and mother, with Kettle, and several
others. This young man came to take possession of
his young and handsome wife, Erk-tua ; for which
no farther ceremony was requisite than taking his
seat by her side the moment he entered the hut,
thus establishing himself as lord and master. On
the following day, the young couple paid Captain
Parry a visit ; and the bridegroom being an old
favourite, was enriched by the present of a boarding-
pike and some useful household effects, while his fair
lady was embellished with a profusion of beads and
tinsel : both looked exceedingly sheepish, and had
very little to say for themselves : the husband was
about seventeen, and the wife fifteen years of age.

On the 21st, Toolemak brought a stranger, who
had just arrived at the island, to see me ; he was the
tallest Eskimaux we had yet seen, being five feet
nine inches and three quarters in height, but was
thin, narrow-chested, and somewhat delicate in ap-
pearance. Toolemak had made me the model of a
kayak, and this day received the promised exchange.
He soon after entered into a long preparatory dis-
course, about a vision he had lately seen in his
quality of annatkoo : the sum of which was, that an

WOI.VKS.

iv'*)"

object had appeared to him, advancing rapidly, and
making extraordinary motions; this had at first
alarmed him, but on a nearer approach he discovered
the figure of Lyon, bearing in his hand an axe, which
he immediately presented to him. This e. traordi-
nary account I answered by the relation of a dream
which I also had lately been surprised by; which
was, that Toolemak had been turned out of my cabin
for begging. My dream was instantly realized ; and
the old man bore the joke with great good humour,
though it was the means of his exchanging a warm
seat by my fire for a very comfortless walk on deck.

On the 28d, two of the officers were walking to-
wards the village, attended by our Newfoundland
dog, when, the animal being a short distance before
them, three wolves rushed forward and attacked him ;
and had it not been for his size and strength, and
the interference of the gentlemen, the poor beast
must have been killed and carried off. On the night
of the 24th, one of these voracious creatures was shot
from the ship by our indefatigable sportsman, George
Dunn: it was beautifully white, a male, and of a
large size ; he was very old ; for all the teeth, and
even the tusks, were worn down to the gums.

On the 28th, several families arrived at Igloolik ;
and on the 30th, all came to see us. Amongst others
was young Ib-bi-kuk, who had been sent forward
under the charge of her uncle (Kettle) to join her hus-
band at this place : they were an admirably matched
couple in point of appearance, being equally ugly

298

A CUllE Foil LUMBAliO.

i .'!^' '■'

l»'l''
•5'^

cUitl dirty. The husband was the /oung Tooloowak,
who had so much distinguished himself in the little
summer excursion which I had made over the ice to
Khe-mtg. This pair exhibited the same symptoms
of mauvaise honte as the other newly-married couple j
and in both instances I observed that the women
were in a high state of subjection to their young
husbands.

The 2d of December was a day of some import-
ance to us, as we saw the sun for the last time. The
upper limb was seen for a few minutes at noon ; but
so dimly, and so curiously distorted by refraction,
that its appearance can scarcely be conceived by those
who I hope may never pass a day without being
blessed with the light of the Almighty's most glo-
rious work.

It-kammtik came to me in great distress, in con-
sequence of a severe fit of lumbago which afflicted
him, and he earnestly requested that his wife might
be permitted to wash his back with soap. This the
lady performed under my instructions, and I gave
further directions that he should undergo a good
scrubbing every morning as long as a large piece of
soap which I gave him should last. This, with the
application of my musical snufF-box to his loins, a
specific in all difficult cases, gave him great relief;
and having oflfered me his wife's boots as a fee, he set
off to comfort his old mother, who remained crying
at home until his return.

In the afternoon a wolf came nearly along-side the

WOLVES KILL A DOi;.

f^l)9

Hecla, when Captain Parry's greyhound and Mr.
Reid*s terrier both went after him. Two men were
instantly sent armed to bring back the dogs, and if
possible to destroy the wolf; and it being a thick
day, they were all soon out of sight. The wolf had
been observed either to have been outrun, or to stop
occasionally to attack the greyhound, while the little
dog kept forward as well as he could. At the end
of two or three hours the people returned with Cap-
tain Parry's dog, but poor little Spark was missing.
A space was found on the snow which was much
trampled, and a few drops of fresh blood showed but
too plainly the fate of the most generally fondled
ship dog I ever saw : the poor animal was, indeed,
as much regretted as if he had been the individual
property of each officer in the expedition.

Nothing of any interest occurred until the 13th,
when I accompanied Captain Parry to the village,
where it was my intention, should Toolemak assent,
to remain during the night, in order, if possible, to
learn some farther particulars of the performance of
the annatkoo. Our reception by my amama was
most kind, and the visit gave peculiar satisfaction, as
being considered the reconciliation of a little quarrel
which Captain Parry had found it requisite to make
with Toolemak, who was not now at home. He re-
turned soon after Captain Parry had left me, in very
high glee, and untying one of his boots, produced
from it three ooloos, or women's knives, some wood.

fJOO

A NIGHT'S VISir

41,

I;-

I: '

biscuit, and pieces of tin, after which he set to work
in propping a frozen walrus against the side of liis
hut in order to make more room. The most im-
portant duties of an Eskimaux were now to be per-
formed, and the old man, with his adopted sons and
visitors, sat down to the discussion of an immense
pot of smoking seal's flesh. In this I determined on
being a partaker, as in addition to being very hungry
I had another inducement, from having a few days
before received of Toolemak a most important lesson
in politeness. He had slept in my cabin, and had
made a point of partaking whatever was offered him
to eat or drink, however repugnant it might be to
his palate, observing, as each thing was presented to
him, that it was " very good ;'* but that the kabloona
on entering a hut always turned up their noses, re-
fused what was presented to them, and always said
"dirty,'* or "bad." This was strictly true, and in
consequence I determined, for good breeding's sake,
to do as my host did. I accordingly made a plenti-
ful meal out of the common mess, and did not after-
wards refuse even a raw and frozen slice of walrus.
This conduct procured me abundance of thanks and
compliments, for they were all aware that raw flesh
in particular was always rejected by us. Toolemak was
so pleased at my complaisance, that he volunteered to
call his Torngaa from the shades below, and a large
party were invited to be present at the mysteries.
As his performance is connected with what I had

TO TOOLF.MAK'S HUT.

.'iOl

before heard on board, 1 shall give an acconnt of
both together when speaking of the superstitions of
the Eskimaux.

The incantations being finished, and the audience
dispersed, we prepared for bed. Toolemak*s son and
daughter-in-law stripped and turned in on one side,
while my worthy Aniama and Ortata did the same
on the other. A new seal's skin was spread between
the two couples, and on this I took up my quarters.
During the stillness of the night I was startled by
hearing loud explosions, which so much resembled
the report of great guns, as to induce me to awaken
the sleepers, and ask the cause. They accounted for
the noise as being occasioned by the cold bursting
the earth. Had it not been for this explanation, I
should have fancied that the ships were firing signal
guns, as I could scarcely have supposed that the frost
would have such power after the earth had been
frozen during three months, and when it might be
imagined to have become cooled as much as was pos-
sible. At 3 A. M. on the 14th, we got up and dressed
ourselves ; the first motions of the Eskimaux being
to seize a knife and a lump of flesh. The frozen
walrus was lowered down, and cut into two portions,
the largest of which was kept by Toolemak, while
the other was sent to the man who had killed and
really owned the animal. From having on other oc-
casions observed the same distribution of food, I am
convinced that the old man, either from his profession
as an Anatkoo, or his abilities as a hunter, had in-

iiOit

OLD KETTLK.

Ir .'f*'-;

i-«

variably a share of whatever provision was taken from
the stores along the beach, as well as of animals which
were killed in the daily excursions. That he was
not selfish in what his authority procured him, was
always evident from the quantity of feeders by whom
his hut was constantly filled ; and on this morning,
in particular, there was not during four hours a vacant
place. Amongst other hungry people came old
Kettle, who no sooner appeared, than Toolemak ad-
dressed him in a jeering tone, with " NakkakhToos,
a thief." To this rude greeting I was astonished at
hearing Kettle answer in a most humorous manner,
by relating the circumstance of his having robbed
Pari, which excited great merriment in all present,
and most particularly in the narrator himself. When
I prepared to leave the village, and while the people
were catching my dogs, Toolemak asked me very
seriously if any one had said " Pillitay " to me, and in
strict justice I must say, that in this solitary instance
no one begged from me. I suspected that this mo-
deration proceeded from some warning given by
Toolemak, to whom I had frequently excused myself
from going to the huts, by complaining of the un-
ceasing and general demand which was made for pre-
sents. My principal gratification in this visit con-
sisted in having been enabled to pass a night amongst
the Eskimaux in the middle of the season of darkness,
and to observe the still continued regularity which
existed ir their dwellings during so wretdied a
period.

CHRISTMAS DAY.

{J03

December *2^iul. We had now arrived at tlic
shortest day, yet although the sun was at noon below
the horizon, and had not been seen for twenty days,
we still had very tolerable twilight for two hours
before and after noon, and therefore had never found
the weather so dark as to preclude our taking the
requisite exercise. Captain Parry and myself were
frequently in the habit of driving a mile or two to-
gether with our respective sledges, and found much
amusement in doing so, as we had both become great
whips, and had most excellent dogs.

Christmas Day was celebrated by our attending
church in the forenoon, after which the people re-
turned to the important discussion of various pies,
puddings, &c. Captain Parry dined with me, and
was treated with a superb display of mustard and
cress, with about fifty onions, rivaling a fine needle
in size, which I had reared in boxes round my cabin-
stove. All our messes in either ship were supplied
with an extra pound of real English fresh beef, which
had been hanging at our quarter for eighteen months.
We could not afford to leave it for a farther trial of
keeping, but I have no doubt that double the period
would not have quite spoiled its flavour.

On the 31st, two of the Eskimaux slept on board
in my cabin. Ooyara informed me, that a bear had
been killed on the preceding night on the ice near
the huts, by his brother-in-law, who afterwards pre-
sented his sister with a shoulder of it. The hunters
occasionally killed a seal or two, and sometimes a

f304

WANTS OF THE NATIVES.

■4.;

r '

walrus ; but in this precarious success they could not
hope to support so great a number as by the recent
arrivals were now assembled at Igloolik. We there-
fore made such arrangements as our circumstances
would permit, for giving to the women and children,
or to those who were most distressed, an occasional
supply of bread dust and oil. The Fury fed the
visitors for one week, and the Hecla the next, so
that we might be certain that no one received
double allowance. Women came down daily with
children at their backs to beg for this food, although
the walk to and fro was about twelve miles, and the
general temperature to which themselves and otF-
spring were exposed v;as from 35. to 42. below
zero ! As for ourselves, in the ships we were blessed
with excellent health, and enjoyed every comfort
which our splendid outfit and the nature of our
situation would permit. In this second winter, how-
ever, we very readily admitted the truth of the old
naval adage, that ** the second year tries a man ;"
for those who felt the least inconvenience from the
cold at Winter Island were now as much distressed
by it as the others. As I was one of this number, I
shall state my own case, which was the more remark-
able, from the extraordinary and almost sudden
change I had experienced from the hottest to the
coldest climate on the globe.

At our til St quarters my clothing, with the ex-
ception of a thicker jacket, was the same as I had
worn during the summer. I never exceeded one

EFFECT OF THF. CLIMATE.

305

.»>

pair of thin worsted stockings, neither did I find it
requisite, unless the weather was windy, to wear
either a great coat or comforter when walking out.
There were two or three others equally insensible to
the cold as myself j but the change of climate had an
effect on me, which I believe was not experienced by
the rest, and which was, that the hair from my body
regularly moulted, if I may be excused the expres-
sion, and was renewed two or three times ; even in
the summer following, and this second winter, the
process still continued, although in a slighter de-
gree. My health all this time was better than I had
ever enjoyed for so long a period. But, to return to
Igloolik. We all now felt the absolute necessity of
putting on additional clothing j both while below, and
when walking out, coldness in the feet was, I believe,
the most general complaint. The weather was cer-
tainly much more severe than at our last station, and
the mean temperature of December was lower than
at Melville Island. Our stove-funnels collected a
quantity of ice within them, notwithstanding fires
were kept up night and day, so that it was frequently
requisite to take them down in order to break and
melt the ice out of them, as it collected in the same
form as the pulp of a cocoa-nut lies within its
shell.

It is remarkable that the Hecla cracked as much
and as often in the coldest weather as she did in
the former winter, which proves that the sap of the
timber, even after the trial of three hard seasons, is

306

DESCRIPTION OF THE

»^\

if->.

still influenced and acted upon by the frost. The
Fury, as Captain Parry informed me, was less affected.

During the dark season, I mean the time that we
did not at all see the sun, it was remarked with
astonishment that the aurora borealis was very rarely
seen, in fact only once or twice, and then so faintly
as scarcely to call our attention.

To a man who, like myself, merely keeps a journal
for the amusement of himsdf and family, it may be
excused if he does all he can to make it look well.
This is precisely my case, and, like a little school-boy
with the last page of his copybook, I purpose winding
up with something pretty, in order that 1823 may
begin a new book. I therefore shall attempt to give,
as far as my limited descriptive powers will admit,
a general account of the Eskimaux who have been
figuring away in so many pages of this journal, with-
out my having said what colour, shape, or pecu-
liarities they are distinguished by, and which is as
follows.

PERSONS OF THE ESKIMAUX.

307

CHAPTER IX.

Persons of the Eskimaux — Their dress and ornaments — Occu-
pations of the women — Canoes — Sledges — Weapons— Hunting
on the ice — Dog* — Land animals — Wolf traps — Fishing —
Geographical knowledge — General disposition — Marriages—
Estimation of women — Treatment of children — Conduct to the
aged, the sick, and the dead — Superstitions.

Of the persons and features of the EsMmauJc,—
The Eskimaux whom we had seen at Winter Island
and Igloolik comprised nearly all the inhabitants of
the north-east coast of America, from the Wager
River to our second winter quarters, and as they
were all related by blood or marriage, I may speak
of them as one tribe. They may more properly
be termed a small than even a middle-sized race.
For though in some few instances, and in particular
families, the men are tall and stout, yet the greater
portion of the tribe are beneath the standard of what
in Europe would be called small men. The tallest I
saw was five feet nine inches and three quarters in
height ; the shortest only four feet ten inches ; and
the highest woman was five feet six inches, while the
smallest was four feet eight inches only; between
these, of course, there were intermediate sizes, all,
however, inclining to the lowest scale. Even in the
young and strong men the muscles are not clearly
defined, but are smoothly covered, as in the limbs of
women ; and though when dressed they appear stout
well-set people, yet, taking them in a body, their

t »

308

DESCRIPTION OF THE

figures when uncovered are rather weak than other-
There is a remarkable contradiction in the

wise.

form of the most robust, which is, that however pro-
minent and well shaped the chest may be, the neck
is small, weak, and often shrivelled. They all stand
well on their feet, walking erect and freely, with the
toes rather turned inwards, and the legs slightly
bowed. Their bodily strength is not so great as
might be expected in people who, from their infancy,
are brought up in hardy living and labour. Of this
I had sufficient proof, by matching our people with
Eskimaux of equal sizes to lift weights, and it in-
variably happened that burthens, which were raised
with facility by our people, could scarcely be lifted
by the natives. They are active wrestlers amongst
themselves, but can neither run nor jump. Hardy
and patient of fatigue, yet, for persons brought up in
so severe a climate, they bear the cold with less indif-
ference than I should have expected. Few amongst
them are in the slightest degree inclined to corpulency,
although pot-bellies are universal. The females have
a greater tendency, perhaps from their sedentary
habits, to grow fat. Their plumpness, however, does
not seem wholesome, but more properly may be called
bloated, and that only on particular parts of the body.
The neck and shoulders of the young women are
generally in good, though large, proportion ; and the
arm and wrist are sometimes handsome. The feet of
both sexes are small and neat, well joined at the
ankle, and free from blemishes. The women, from

PERSONS OF THE ESKIMAUX.

309

the peculiar form of their boots, of which I shall
soon have occasion to speak, have a gait like that of a
fat Muscovy duck, and they run unlike any creature
I ever saw, with their legs spread out and toes turned
in, so as to avoid being tripped up by their boots.
For some time I was inclined to fancy that the
hands of these people were small and well shaped,
but latterly I changed my opinion, and it was evi-
dent, from repeated observations, that the original
form was spoiled by labour. The fingers were short
but not taper, and the palm was disproportionately
broad. The hands of the natives whom we met in
Hudson's Strait were certainly far better shaped.
The skin in both sexes appeared to be and was quite
smooth, being unctuous, and unpleasantly cold to the
touch. Contrary to its outward show of fineness, it
was, even in the females, very tough. The com-
plexion of the Eskimaux, when clearly shown by a
previous washing, is not darker than that of a Por-
tuguese, and such parts of the body as are constantly
covered do not fall short in fairness to the generality
of the natives of the Mediterranean. A very fine
healthy blush tinges the cheek of females and young
children, but the men are more inclined to a sallow
complexion. The features of the face are diversified
in an extraordinary manner, yet, like the Jews, they
have, even when their countenances are shaped like
Europeans, an expression altogether peculiar. This
may be attributed to the remarkable formation of the
eye, which is in all alike. The inner corner points
downwards, like that of a Chinese, and the carunculus

/■>T' ,

310

DESCRIPTION OF THE

la?:

lachrymalis, which in Europeans is exposed, is covered
by a membrane which passes over it vertically. The
skin over the upper part of the nose, between the
eyes, is frequently, particularly in the women, stretched
as tight as the covering of a drum. The eyes are
small and black, expressive and sparkling when ani-
mated, and in most infants and a few young girls
really very beautiful. Even in middle aged, or in-
deed young persons, the corner of the eye is marked
by that dreaded figure, the crow's foot ; but in old
people the wrinkles are so abundant, as to cover the
temples, and to stray down the cheek to a degree we
never see in Europe* Another peculiarity, though
not so evident in all faces, is the prominence of the
cheek bones, which frequently presents so flat a sur-
face, as to give to the women in particular the ap-
pearance of having faces as broad as they are long.
It is in consequence of this form, that the noses of
such as are full faced are literally buried between
the projections, and one of our chief belles was so
remarkable in this way> that a ruler, when placed
from cheek to cheek, would not touch the nose!
In nome families, where both parents had oval faces,
the children all resembled them; and about a sixth
part of the people we saw had high Roman noses,
and an expression of countenance, excepting always
the eyes, which seemed of a different race. The
other, and- far the largest portion of the tribe, are
broad and nearly round visaged. The mouth is ge-
nerally kept open, with a kind of idiotic expression,
so that the teeth of either jaw are generally shown.

red
rhe
the
hed

are
ani'
jirls
• in-
rked

old
•the
e we
)ugh

Pthe

sur-

) ap-

long.

es of

ween

as so

laced

nose I

faces,

sixth

loses,

Iways

The

3, are

isge-

ssion,

bown.

lr'4

'-^

■V-

ff)

s
»,

:-A

-•

;

>;
^

rKK«'»vs or rny mKiVWs

:< ; 1

■a
1.1
t-,

• *
M

:~'i

l»c lips

rati

U'l V»ro;ri:C!H'Sv:

! 1 think, ;{' r\ijv

di9orence at all ex;**?, L ?i :n ^^-r nu^u llie iow^iv,
ai. i to tke women tlu i/pj- r lip it yiv*' uu'gest. The
iTJouths lire hirj.fs, yf:i hiive n vcrv 4»'W«>^;4mc l^'nltliy
appearfmee, 'Vhv. ^ct-th an; strong:, ^<i'^ 4* «i<^y fixed
in the jjfums, 'Hi \' nrc tbnuvi] Hk*f ♦^^»muUH i»orv
pegs, and are iv> /!;it on thrftppf^'r enr* m W filc'f
ilcwu. - (J)id j>e";)io hme thi'm ff>ni o^i^" »!e^Tt '^^iJs*
them>;ttK, vnii it h l-v^r ra-'i'V rhat tiuv ;u>; drta\»;J.
IIh? oh. in ,;.% t?mah 4<i4 ryjakeri, aud ^*^mit wr- eall s
dv'^^ahL- -ehia is rrA% the ^m

fm p»€»|*l«j i

r>< %:

'■' %3>:,4l>tpsin^ in

flie (-liiii feeing etttm:lt nove^ml. Tht mousi aches
ave more thick. Ilw hair of both s<;xes is fitiinghtj
coaiNc, and of a raven hltick. In infants it Ims, fur
a few y(»«T*s, s> iih\<U of 'wr)wn. On the i^ofli^j; of
.vis Hi > ;i^.rM';*.j b»i4: fe^» k-r?\ «s?.^'t, smae aK" tntaliy

Jh */-.'(.\^ art'! <;;v//'/f.'k%'C¥.— -Thee<'jntiiwt' nft\w. pf--n^»lc'
^ •<,'s nf»w d.-.^f i ihinpT diif;'^*'* very rr^iic**. frm:w tslu;. (h'

r>f

of---acb. The uiif:w"H .•>.- ia^ttt'*-* '?{*.% fr.|*^ prms^ipaM;,
('fmi(Visuu of fino and vv-,>ii pi*i^p}.u't'd I'-iu ',-vr pc'ts.
tat' ^kf^K <if bears, seal*^, wsjives, fc)xes, and mar-

^T}r«t,ti;«s, jtrf ai^o ^ised* llif strf? j>kics aie seldom
emplovf^d htv .:rny pit «r nf tm; drc^*, ^^xcept boot> aitd
>h<)e;*i m. being more espabie oF rf:;?^j»iing ^vnicr? auf^
of [hr j»ri'., '•.•■• duribility than other kathcr.

The general winter !rei<s of 'hf :^u?u is :m imiplc

,#£i

'^>^, . ,

•^4:

-1

\.,//.t5^.:.^^Tr

.. j>:-jj_ -

-•U.

■V'-. -v^t*-'-'-:'

Si«»--..;

■r^:;.::^

«ij

f»

.jir.-

:>.?,

»"

■:SS^

PKllSONS OF THE ESKIMAUX.

Sll

The lips are rather prominent, and I think, if any
difference at all exists, that in the men the lower,
and in the women the upper lip is the largest. The
mouths are large, yet have a very wholesome healthy
appearance. The teeth are strong, and deeply fixed
in the gums. They are formed like rounded ivory
pegs, and are as flat on the upper end as if filed
down. Old people have them worn quite even with
the gums, and it is but rarely that any are decayed.
The chin is small and peaked, and what we call a
double chin is rare, the skin generally collapsing in
fat people, instead of forming in a roll. The beards
of the men are scanty, but few instances occurring of
the chin being entirely covered. The moustaches
are more thick. The hair of both sexes is straight,
coarse, and of a raven black. In infants it has, for
a few years, a shade of brown. On the bodies of
adults there is but little hair, in fact, some are totally
destitute of it. . . v^

Dress and ornaments, — The costume of the people
I am now describing differs very much from that of
the Hudson's Strait savages, though an equal degree
of neatness and ingenuity is displayed in the work
of each. The clothes of both sexes are principally
composed of fine and well prepared rein-deer pelts ;
the skins of bears, seals, wolves, foxes, and mar-
ihottes, are also used. The seal skins are seldom
employed for any part of the dress, except boots and
shoes, as being more capable of resisting water, and
of far greater durability than other leather.

The general winter dress of the men is an ample

•'I

DRESS AND ORNAMKNTS

outer coat of deer's skin, having no opening in front,
and a large hood, which is drawn over the head
at pleasure. This hood is iuvanahly bordered with
white fur from the thighs of the deer, and thus pre-
sents a lively contrast to the dark face which it en-
circles. The front, or belly part of the coat, is cut
off square with the upper part of the thighs ; but bt;-
hind it is fonned into a broad skirt, rounded at the
lower end, which reaches to within a few inches of
the ground. The lower edges and tails of these
dresses are in some cases bordered with bands of fur
of an opposite colour to the body, and it is a favourite
ornament to hang a fringe of little strips of skin be-
neath the border. These embellishments give a very
pleasing appearance to the dress. It is customary,
in blowing weather, to tie a piece of skin or cord
tight round the waist of the coat ; but in other cases
the dress hangs loose. Within the covering I have
just described is another of precisely the same form ;
but though destitute of ornaments of leather, it has
frequently little strings of beads hanging to it from
the shoulders or small of the back. This dress is of
thinner skin, and acts as a shirt, the hairy part being
placed next the body : it is the in-doors habit. When
walking, the tail is tied up by two strings to the
back, so that it may not incommode the legs. Be-
sides these two coats, they have also a large cloak,
or, in fact, an open deer-skin, with sleeves: this,
from its size, is more frequently used as a blanket ;
and I but once saw it worn by a man at the ship,
although the women throw it over their shoulders to

•l

OF THK ESKIMAUX.

313

»
*

shelter themselves and children while sitting on the
sledge.

The trowsers, which are tightly tied round the
loins, have no waistbands, but depend cnti.<My by
the drawing-strings ; they are generally oF deers*
skin, and ornamented in the same manner as the
coats. One of the most favourite patterns is an
arrangement of the skins of deers* legs, so as to form
very pretty stripes. As with the jackets, there are
two pair of these indispensables, reaching no lower
than the knee-cap, which is a cause of great distress
in cold weather, as that part is frequently severely
frost-bitten; yet, with all their experience of this
bad contrivance, they will not add an inch to the
established length.

The boots reach to the bottom of the breeches, which
hang loosely over them. In these, as in the other pai-ts
of the dress, are many varieties of colour, material, and
pattern, yet in shape they never vary. The general win-
ter boots are of deer skin ; one having the hair next the
leg, and the other with the fur outside. A pair of
soft slippers of the same kind are worn between the
two pair of boots, and outside of all a strong seal skin
shoe is pulled to the height of the ankle, where it is
tightly secured by a drawing string. For hunting
excursions, or in summer when the country is thawed,
one pair of boots only is worn. They are of seal's
skin, and so well sewed and prepared without the
hair, that although completely saturated, they allow
no water to pass through them. The soles are ge-

« I

314

DRESS AND ORNAMENTS

3 '

■ .'■ ■ -f'

:¥^

^: •

M-s^-^y: : i

nerally of the tough hide of the walrus, or of the
large seal called Oo-ghioo, so that the feet are well
protected in walking over rough ground. Slippers
are sometimes worn outside. In both cases the boots
are tightly fastened round the instep with a thong of
leather. The mittens in common use are of deer
skin, with the hair inside ; but in fact every kind of
skin is used for them. They are extremely com-
foiiiable when dry, but if once wetted and frozen
again> in the winter afford as little protection to the
hands as a case of ice would do. In summer, and in
fishing, excellent sealskin mittens are used, and have
the same power of resisting water as the boots of
which I have just spoken. At Igloolik, on our first
arrival, we found a few pair of fingered gloves, very
neally made. The dresses I have just described are
chiefly iis«d in winter. During the summer it is
customJiry to wear coat, boots, and even breeches,
composed of the prepared skins of ducks, with the
leathers next the body. These are comfortable, light,
and easily prepared. When' we first became ac-
quainted with the different parties of natives, and
before they had received presents from us, we found
that the few ornaments in their possession were worn
by th« men. These were some batideaus which en-
circled the head, and were composed of various
coloured leather, plaited in a mosaic pattern, and in
some cases having human hair woven in them as a
contrast to the white skins. From the lower edge
foxes' teeth hung suspended, arranged as a fringe

- f t

»-

the
ivell
)ers

tw.

ft.

fS5

% .^

<■

•v

' ■>

■'in vm

:r T

» •

> t

•|-..'.S'S rflP i:("\';)^':Tj

(•' tho hail

yi w

i(.*\l*<>ll '-VOiJ

I t.if" -i'

'Oi'V iluui(

or f:

iH iiU

<•(,(■.

The ;U'ihi!!:^'.r'

U<^'

•r.at;cn&i

i:Mi;t <)F llu- !>}

■\. ',)\

itt'crcnt troif. f

. fiv:. ivij'*

-■'•ru next iae skaji #'•''

rf i«-

•' ilin^it; y;-

iilifd %»M»tj?"v«t, -iod is-tlie same as the
ir.'i-'.ui of (.'vaiita. ill oidei- to keup tbc hiir<lei! if
the child fVo'Vt flrawiTiff fMe dH'm'tmh^. (wxiya^ tlu:

rh.: si^inr* '>'" .* :*^-. . ■■ >^./--jr,~,. ;^y : .■J.'a.:sid to the
^olKvr '>r iv-i'k '-^i^, -^hti^^r itjm?»?t* h<-n':ifi:ii Ui.

l.;!t llw sl3^<MMa'^ ^f *.!' ^^Ptmfa's co»t h;;\'i^ ri

til uccount : but it wwR ai Hrnt^h .".■.•crf-iiiH-vl to !).;•
ib;^ tVc purpos^:^ of f«ci!Itc;tia^ tho renioval of the
child troin tar ixsod .a ip,] f! thr' brta.st \vithou^
' :\ :-tii,i a ,»:•» '^- i>.<' }^A K'=r.

/^ 4

\ ;

• 1

. c. ^,•,■•^, ,Jp-

..,^- ■ ,.

l!,|'

4^' ■<v

'•■'<„

.•r.V-'^.»>,.

.■^^iMT*".vt_:fr^"^.-7-'*- ♦ "

OF THE ESKIMAUX.

315

across the forehead. In different parts of the hair
several wore a musk-ox tooth, a small ivory figure,
or the bone of some small animal.

The clothing of the women is of the same materials
as that of the men, but in shape almost every part is
different from the male dress. An inner jacket is
worn next the skin, and the fur of the other is out-
side. The hind flap or tail is of the form before de*
scribed, but there is also a small flap in front, ex-
tending about half way 'lown the thigh. Th€ coats
have each an immense hood, which, as well as cover-
ing the head, answers the purpose of a child's cradle
for two or three years after the birth of an infant.
This is called ama-6o-ta, and ia the same as the
amaut of Crantz. In order to keep the burden of
the child from drawing the dress tight across the
throat, a contrivance, in a great measure res^bling
the slings of a soldier's knapsack, is affixed to the
collar or neck part, whence it passes beneath the
amaoota, crosses, and being brought under the arms,
is secured on each side the breast by a wooden but-
ton. The shoulders of the women's coat have a
wide bag-like space, for which we were long unable
to account ; but it was at length ascertained to be
for the purpose of facilitating the removal of the
child from the hood round to the breast without
taking it out of the jacket. .<.■.. ...

' When a girdle is worn round the waist, it answers
the double purposes of comfort and ornament j being
frequently composed of some valuable trinkets, such
as foxes* bones, those of the kableeaghioo, or some-

316

DRESS AND ORNAMENTS

r,.!i

times of the ears of deer, which hang in pairs to the
number of twenty or thirty, and are trophies of the
skill of the hunter, to whom the wearer is allied.
The inexpressibles of the women are of the same
foim as those of the men, but they are not orna-
mented by the same curious arrangement of colours ;
the front part is generally of white, and the back of
dark fur. The manner of securing them at the
waist is also the same ; but the drawing-strings are
of much greater length, being suffered to hang down
by one side, and their ends are frequently orna-
mented with some pendent jewel, such as a grinder
or two of the musk-ox, a piece of carved ivory, a
small ball of wood, or a perforated stone.

The boots of the fair sex are, without dispute, the
most extraordinary part of their equipment, and are
of such an immense size as to resemble leather sacks,
and to give a most deformed, and, at the same time,
ludicrous appearance to the whole figure : the bulky
part being at the knee, the upper end is formed into
a pointed flap, which, covering the front of the thigh,
is secured by a button or knot within the waistband
of the breeches.

Some of these ample articles of apparel are com-
posed with considerable taste, of various coloured
skins J they also have them of parchment seals' leather.
Two pair are worn ; and the feet have also a pair of
seal-skin slippers, which fit close, and are tightly tied
round the ankle.

Children have no kind of clothing, but lie naked
in their mothers* hoods until two or three years of

OF THE ESKIMAUX.

317

led
!r.
of

led

age, when they are stuffed into a little dress, gene-
rally of fawn-skin, which has jacket and breeches in
one, the back part being open; into this they are
pushed, when a string or two closes all up again.
A cap forms an indispensable part of the equipment,
and is generally of some fantastical shape : the skin
of a fawn's head is a favourite material in the com-
position, and is sometimes seen with the ears perfect ;
the nose and holes for the eyes lying along the crown
of the wearer's head, which, in consequence, looks
like that of an animal.

Although by necessity and habit an extremely
dirty people, the Eskimaux appear fully aware of the
truth of a well-known sayiftg, and practically show
that " a stitch in time " does wonders; for, however
old or worn their dresses may be, it is rarely that
ragged clothes are seen.

Our woollen jackets, shirts, or stockings, were very
highly esteemed; and though not a tenth part so
warm as the skin coverings, yet always had the credit
with the Eskimaux of being much more comfortable
than those ; the poor creatures, who wore them
generally outside their proper dress, ascribing all the
warmth they felt to the Kabloona cloth. In this
way I have seen a thin cotton shirt placed over two
coats, while the happy wearer exclaimed with delight
that "it made him quite hot.*'

While speaking of the ornaments of the Eskimaux,
I must not omit the manner of dressing the hair.
The men generally cut it square across the forehead,
leaving the side locks as long as they will grow, and

318

OCCUPATIONS OF THE WOMEN.

sometimes these are nearly two feet in length : such

as have the hair long all over the head tie up the

tresses which would otherwise hang over the face in

a large knot or bunch, which has an odd appearance,

projecting from the forehead. The young men are

in the habit of clipping the crown quite close ; but

all have the greatest partiality for the side hair. The

women have but one way of arranging their very long

black locks, which is by dividing them neatly in the

centre of the head, and arranging them on each side

in the shape of a mighty pigtail, which has a piece of

wood or bone for a stifFener ; round this the hair is

secured by a binding of thongs of skin with the fur

on, so as to form a pretty spiral pattern, and the

end of the lock is made to form a kind of rose at the

bottom. This, as with other parts of the costume,

differs materially from the arrangement of the hair of

the Hudson's Strait women; who, as I have already

stated, tie it in one large bunch on the crown of the

head, as is also done by the females of Greenland.

Occupations qfxvomem — Before I set the ladies
to work, it may be as well to premise, that in sitting
their feet are bent under the thighs, so that the wo-
man, in fact, rests between her own legs, as is the
custom with the Arab and negro females.

Under the head of cookery, I shall here introduce
the different modes of striking a light, of which there
are two. The one in general use, however, is per-
formed by two pieces of iron pyrites, which, by a for-
cible blow, give out a few sparks ; these are received
on some dry moss kept in an oval pad-shaped bag,

OCCUPATIONS or THE WOMEN.

319

having a square opening on one side. The second
method is by friction, but I found no particular
instance of its being resorted to j and the man who
showed me the manner of doing it only learnt it
from his father, who had seen it done " a long way
to the southward."

^ The women, besides making the clothes for them-
selves, their husbands, and children, have also to
prepare the materials. The hunter conceives that
he has done his duty in killing the animals, whose
skins are to be dressed, and therefore does not
offer the slightest assistance in pi*eparing them.
Whenever his boots or dress become wet, the wife
scrapes the water from them, rubs and supples the
leather, and dries them over the lamp. Should the
boots, shoes, or gloves of parchment seal skin become
stiff by being laid aside for a time, they are then
chewed until soft by the women and girls. In pre-
paring skins, great part of the fat and oil is first
sucked from them, they are then repeatedly scraped
and rubbed between the hands, and in summer are
stretched by pegs on the ground : in winter they are
laced over a hoop, and exposed to the heat of the
lamps. When deer skins are prepared so as to re-
semble shamoy leather, the only preparation, after
the usual scraping and drying, is by chewing, rub-
bing between the hands, and ultimately scrubbing
with sand and urine : while damp, a second scraping
is given, and on drying, the skin assumes a beau-
tiful appearance.

The women prepare bird skins also by sucking and

^p^^

: 1

1 I

li.«*-,

■4.'

( • )

:^ -M

330

CANOES, SLKDGES, AVEAPONS.

drying ; they make whalebone pots, ivory ornaments,
gear for bows, fishing lines, harness for dogs, &c. &c.
They also have an ingenious method of making
lamps and cooking-pots of flat slabs of stone, which
they cement* together by a composition of seal's
blood applied warm, the vessel being held at the
same time over the flame of a lamp, which dries the
plaster to the hardness of a stone. Were I to at-
tempt enumerating all the instances of ingenuity in
these women, I should fail to express them pro-
perly, and shall therefore borrow the words of the
accurate Crantz, who says, vol. i. p. 154, ** The wo-
men perform the offices of butchers, cooks, tanners,
sempstresses, tailors, and shoe-makers, furnished only
with a crooked knife, in the shape of a crescent, se-
veral large and small needles, a thimble (of leather),
and their own teeth, with which they stretch the
leather in tanning and currying."

Canoes, sledges, weapons, — I have already given
a description of the oo-miak, or women's boat, of the
Eskimaux of Hudson's Strait, anticipating that such
vessels might not be used by the natives to the north-
westward. My conjectures on this point proved well-
founded, this tribe having no other boats than the
kayak. The man's boat differs but little from those
we saw at the Savage Islands, and the variety only
consists in having a longer peak to the stem, and
one at the stern, which turns a little upwards. The

* This cement is composed of seal's blood, of whitish clay,
and of dog's hair. The natives fancy that the hair of a female
dog would spoil the composition^ and prevent it sticking.

CANOKS.

321

given
of the

such
north-
1 well-
in the
those

only
, and

The

clay,
I female

rim round the hole in which the rower sits is also
rather different, having the front part something
higher than the back; whereas the first canoes we
saw had all their rims of an equal height, and were
round like hoops. This part was edged very neatly
with ivory, but at Igloolik there was no such or-
nament.

The peculiar shape of the canoes may be conceived
from the above account ; but the dimensions of one
may serve as a description of all the rest*. It may

LENGTH.

Body .

Stem projection

Stern projection .

Total

Abaft the hole
Before it

mciGiiT.

Ft.

In.

Rim in front

Rim behind

Breadth at centre ....

Depth at the same place
Circumference of rim ....

A flat piece of wood runs along each side of the frame, and is
in fact the only piece of any strength in the kayak. Its depth
in the centre is four or five inches, and its thickness about
three-fourths of an inch : it tapers to a point at the commence-
ment of the stem and stern projections. Sixty-four ribs are
fastened to this gunwale piece : seven slight rods run the whole
length of the bottom and outside the ribs. The bottom is
rounded, and has no keel: twenty-two little bea^is, or cross

♦u>o

DESCRIPTfON Ol

be that some differ in length, but in width or fbnii
they arc the same. The head and stern, if they may
be so called, are equally sharp, and the whole body
of the vessel has been very justly compared in shape
with a weaver's shuttle. The ribs, of which there
are sixty or seventy, are made of ground willow,
small bones, whalebone, or if it can be procured, of
good grained wood. The whole contrivance docs
not weigh above 50 or 60 lbs., so that a man easily
carries his kayak on his head, which, by the fonn of
the rim, he can do without the assistance of his hands.
An Eskimaux prides himself in the neat appear-
ance of his boat, and has a warm skin placed in its
bottom to sit on. His posture is with the legs
pointed forward, and he cannot change his position
unless with the assistance of another person : in all
cases where a weight is to be lifted, an alteration
of stowage, or any movement to be made, it is cus-
tomary for two kayaks to lie together ; and the pad-
dle of each being placed across the other, they fonn
a steady double boat. These Eskimaux have not
the art of turning their boat over, and recovering
themselves by a skilful management of the paddle.

pieces, keep the frame on a stretch above j and one strong
batten runs along the centre, from stem to stern, being of course
discontinued at the seat part.

The paddle is double bladed, nine feet three inches in length,
small at the grasp, and widening to four inches at the blades,
which are thin, and edged with ivory for strength as well as
ornament.

THE CANOKS.

H'iii

under water, like the Grccnlaiiders. An inflated
seal's bladder forms, invanal)ly, part of the equipage
of a canoe, and the weapons are confined in their
places by small lines of whalebone, stretched tightly
across the upper covering, so as to receive the points
or handles of the spears beneath them. Flesh is
frequently stowed within the stem or stern, as are
also birds and eggs; but a seal, although round, and
easily made to roll, is so neatly balanced on the
upper part of the boat as seldom to require a lash-
ing. When the Eskimaux are not paddling, their
balance must be nicely preserved, and a trembling
motion is always observable in the boat.

The most difficult position for managing a kayak,
is when going before the wind, and with a little
swell running. Any inattention would instantly, by
exposing the broadside, overturn this frail vessel.
The dexterity with which they are turned, the velo-
city pf their way, and the extreme elegance of form
of the kayaks, renders an Eskimaux an object of the
highest interest when sitting independently, and
urging his course towards his prey.

The next object of importance to the boat is the
sledge, which finds occupation during at least three-
fourths of the year. A man who possesses both this
and a canoe, is considered a person of property. To
give a particular description of the sledge would be
impossible, as there are no two actually alike ; and
the materials of which they are composed, are as
various as their form. The best are made of the

1 /S>

f)U

SLKDCiKS.

jaw-bones of the whale, sawed to about two inches in
thickness, and in depth from six inches to a foot,
Theie are the runners, and are shod with a thin
plank of the same material : the side pieces are
connected by means of bones, pieces of wood, or
deers* horns, lashed across with a few inches space
between each, and they yield to any great strain
which the sledge may receive. The general breadth
of the upper part of the sledge is about twenty inches,
but the runners lean inwards, and therefore at bottom
it is rather greater. The length of bone sledges is
from four feet to fourteen. Their weight is neces-
sarily great ; and one of moderate size, that is to say,
about ten or twelve feet, was found to be 217lbs. The
skin of the walrus is very commonly used during the
coldest part of the winter, as being hard frozen, and re-
sembling an inch board, with ten times the strength,
for runners. Another ingenious contrivance is, by
casing moss and earth in seal's skin, so that by pouring
a little water, a round hard bolster is easily formed.
Across all these kinds of runners there is the same
arrangement of bones, sticks, &c. on the upper part ;
and the surface which passes over the snow is coated
with ice, by mixing snow with fresh water, which
assists greatly in lightening the load for the dogs, as
it slides forwards with ease. We sometimes saw a
person who had but one or two dogs, driving in a
little tray made of a rough piece of walrus hide, or a
flat slab of ice, hollowed like a bowl. Boys fre-
quently amuse themselves by yoking several dogs to

WEAPONS.

325

lies in
, foot.
I thin
;s are
od, or
space
strain
readth
inches,
bottom
dges is
neces-
to say,
s. The
ing the
and re-
*ength,
is, by
touring
brmed.
e same
part ;
coated
which
ogs, as
saw a
^ in a
e, or a
s fre-
logs to

a small piece of seal's skin, and sitting on it, holding
by the traces. Their plan is then to set off at full
speed; and he who bears the greatest number of
bumps before he relinquishes his hold, is considered
a very fine fellow.

Spears. — There are various kinds of spears, but
their difference is chiefly in consequence of the sub-
stances of which they are composed, and not in their
general form. A want of proper materials has been
the means of restricting the northern tribes to few
varieties ; but I shall describe those we procured in
Hudson's Strait collectively with others obtained at
Igloolik. The principal spears are four in number,
and are as follows :

Ka-te-leek, which is a large and strong-handkd
spear, with an ivory point for despatching any
wounded animal in the water. It is never thrown,
but has a place appropriated for it on the kayak, and
is seldom seen amongst the northern tribes.

Akliak, or oonak . A lighter kind than the former ;
also i\ 3ry headed. It has a bladder fastened to it,
and has a loose head with a line attached ; this
being darted into an animal, is instantly liberated
from the handle which gives the impetus. Some few
of these weapons were constructed of the solid ivory
of the unicorn's horn, about four feet in length, and
remarkably well rounded and polished. These were
seen at Igloolik only; ivory being more easily at-
tainable than wood, or bone of the whale's ribs, which
is also used.

3J2G

WKAl'ONS.

Ip-po5-to{)-yoo, is another kind of hiind-spear,
varying but little from the one last described. It
has, however, no appendages.

Noogh-wTt. This is of tvsro kinds, but both are
used for striking birds, young animals, or fish. The
first has a double fork at the extremity, and there are
three other barbed ones at about half its length,
diverging in different directions, so that if the end
pair should miss, some of the centre ones might
strike. The second kind has only three barbed forks
at the head. All the points are of ivory, and the
natural curve of the walrus tusk, favours and facili-
tates their construction.

The whole of the above weapons are described by
Crantz under the same names, as being used by the
Greenlanders. There is, however, an instrument of
which I believe he gives no account, as probably it
does not exist there. It is a kind of nippers called
kak-ke-way, which are used in taking salmon, and
even smaller fish. When sealing on the ice, spare
khiat-kos and lines are taken, and the panna and oonak
are the only weapons. The others are merely carried
on the kayak. A large inflated seaPs skin or bladder
is used, with a khiat-ko attached to it, in wearying a
whale, unicorn, or walru"^^, and is called awataak.

Amongst the minor instruments of the ice-hunting
are a long bone feeler for plumbing any cracks
through which seals are suspected of breathing, and
also for trying the safety of the road. Another con-
trivance is occasionally used with the same effect as

1K)WS.

3)2"

the float of a lisluii^ line. Its purpose is to warn
the hunter who is watching a seal hole, when the
animal rises to tlie surfoce, so that he may strike
without seeing, or being seen by his prey. This is
a most delicate little rod of bone or ivory, of about a
foot in length, and the thickness of a fine knitting-
needle. At the lower end is a small knob like a pin's
head, and the upper extremity has a fine piece of sinew
tied to it, so as to fasten it loosely to the side of the
hole. The animal on rising does not perceive so
small an object hanging in the water, and pushes it up
with his nose, when the watchful Eskimaux observing
his little beacon in motion, strikes down, and secures
his prize.

Small ivory pegs or pins are used to stop the holes
made by th" spears in the animal's body ; thus the
blood, a great luxury to the natives, is saved.

Borv and arrows, — The same want of wood which
renders it necessary to find substitutes in the con-
struction of spears, also occasions the great variety of
bows. The horn of the musk ox, thinned horns of
deer, or other bony substances, are as frequently used
or met with, as wood in the manufacture of these
weapons, in which elasticity is a very secondary con-
sideration. Three or four pieces of horn or wood are
frequently joined together in one bow, — the strength
lying alone in avast collection of small plaited sinews^
these, to the number of perhaps a hundred, run
down tlie back of the bow, and being quite tight, and
having the spring of catgut, cause the weapon, when

.'528

BOWS.

.*■

unstrung, to turn the wrong way : when bent, their
united strength and elasticity are amazing. The
bow-string is of fifteen or twenty plaits, each loose
from the other, but twisted round when in use, so
that a few additional turns will at any time alter its
length. The general length of the bows is about
three feet and a half.

The arrows are short, light, and formed according
to no general riile as to length or thickness. A good
one has half the shaft of bone, and a head of hard
slate, or a small piece of iron ; others have sharply
pointed bone heads : none are barbed. Two feathers
are used for the end, and are tied opposite each other
with the flat sides parallel. A neatly formed case
contains the bow and a few arrows : seal's skin is
preferred for this purpose, as more eflPectually re-
sisting the wet than any other. A little bag, which
is attached to the side, contains a stone for sharpening,
and some spare arrow-heads carefully wrapped up in
a piece of skin.

The bow is held in a horizontal position, and
though capable of great force, is rarely used at a
greater distance than from twelve to twenty yards.

The peculiar term by which the search for sea-
animals is distinguished, is ma-o6k-pok ; but the
severity of the climate prevented our people from
seeing any regular chase ; and as we could only judge
from report, and from the expressive pantomimic de-
scription of the natives, I cannot pretend to offer any
connected account on this subject.

HUNTING ON THK ICE.

329

Where the ice is of sutficient strength to bear a
particular form, the breathing-places of seals bear
great resemblance to mole-hills, and have a small crack
in the upper part. By this kind of mound the hunter
stands, and listens until he hears the animal breathing,
which assures him that the place is tenanted, and
his operations commence accordingly. On striking,
the first care is to catch the line behind one leg,
so as to act as a strong check ; and for farther
security, a hitch is also taken round the ring finger,
which sometimes is terribly lacerated, and even torn
off by the struggles of a large animal. The spear
being at liberty, is now used to stab the seal until
it dies, and the hole being enlarged, it is drawn out
on the ice. The carcass speedily freezes, and is then
fit to be drawn home to the huts. The walrus is
occasionally taken in the same manner ; but it is only
when he has no open water to range in, that he is
found under young ice. The general manner of
striking him is when he rises amongst loose heavy
pieces of ice, which are moving under the influence of
wind or tide. If two or three men are together, the
operation is comparatively easy ; but we have many
accounts of unfortunate persons who have been drawn
under the ice and drowned, owing to insecure
footing, or an entangled line. The animals caught
amongst the young or moving ice, and in those
places where particulai.'ly favourable or the contrary,
are three : the walrus, trichicus rosmarus, of Lin-
naeus, or ay-wek of the Eskimaux, Large bearded

-v!

330

METHOD Ol' KlLLlNt;

M- .

seal, p. burbata, of Linna>us, or oo-ghioo of the Es-
kimaux. Small seal, p. vitellina of Linnaeus, or net-
yek of the Eskimaux.

One method of killing these animals in the sum-
mer is ingenious. When the hunters, in their
canoes, perceive a large herd sleeping on the float-
ing ice, as is their custom, they paddle to some
other piece near them, which is small enough to
be moved. On this they lift their canoes, and then
bore several holes, through which they fasten their
tough lines, and when every thing is ready, they
silently paddle the hummock towards their prey,
each man sitting by his own line and spear. In this
manner they reach the ice on which the walruses are
lying snoring; and if they please, each man may
strike an animal, though, in general, two persons
attack the same beast. The wounded and startled
walrus rolls instantly to the water, but the shatko,
or harpoon, being well fixed, he cannot escape from
the hummock on which the Eskimaux have fastened
the line. When the animal becomes a little weary,
the hunter launches his canoe, and lying out of his
reach, spears him to death.

The ooghioo rises occasionally in holes at no
great distance from the edge of the field, but
the netyek is found many miles from any open
water. The latter, therefore, is the principal and
only certain support during the greater portion of
the severe winter, and it makes a perfectly circular
hole, by which it rises to breathe, even through ice

THK WALRUS AND SEAL.

(J31

many feet in thickness. This opening it keeps con-
tinually cleared, of a sufficient size for the admission
of its body, allowing the top alone to freeze partially
over. It is thus easily discovered by the Eskimaux,
an inhabited hole being always distinguished by its
perfect form. The process in taking seals in these
situations is rather different from the way of killing
them in the young ice ; and I have seen what I believe
is a general custom, practised in two instances. A
small wall of slabs of snow being raised near the hole,
the hunter sits within it, having previously enlarged
the seal-hole, when the animal rises its head and
shoulders out of water, without fear. This he repeats
once or twice with increased confidence, and being
in no haste to dive again, the hunter rises suddenly,
and throws his spear into him. A second way is by
covering the seal hole over with snow, and then
putting the end of the spear through it, to make
an opening about as large as the neck of a bottle.
The spear is then withdrawn. The hunter mean-
while having a wall to shelter him from the wind,
sits quietly on a snow bench near the hole, and having
his weapons ready, listens attentively until he hears
the seal breathing beneath the snow. He then rises
without noise, and with all his force strikes through
the light snow, generally with success. This is the
plan during the severe and dark part ot the winter ;
and a poor fellow will sometimes sit ten or twelve
hours in this manner, at a temperature of 80 or 40
degrees below zero, without even hearing a seal.
It would be needless for me to attempt any de-

!l|!t

3f52

BKAllS.

.i''

scription of the Polar bear. An Eskimaux, with
three or four dogs, will instantly attack one of these
animals without thinking of any thing but the cap-
ture of a delicate meal, and a good skin for cloth-
ing. The dogs no sooner see the unwieldy bear,
than giving tongue, they chase and keep him at
bay until their master comes up, who throws the
khiatko into him, if he finds a piece of ice around
which he can secure the line, or otherwise darts the
spear alone behind the shoulder. He then trusts
entirely to his own activity and the spirit of his
dogs, and leaping from side to side, avoids the fu-
rious springs of the wounded animal. If the spear
drops from the wound, it is again thrown, and with
better effect ; but if it holds, the dogs attack the
animal's legs, and the man rushes on with his panna,
and despatches his enemy.

The females which have their young cubs with
them, are far more to be dreaded than the males,
though not much more than half their size. An
Eskimaux will, however, attack the mother first, and
afterwards kill the two cubs, even when nearly as
large as their dam.

Dogs. — These useful creatures being indispensable
attendants on the Eskimaux, drawing home whatever
captures are made, as well as frequently carrying
their masters to the chase, I know of no more proper
place to introduce them, than as a part of the hunting
establishment. Having myself possessed, during our
second winter, a team of eleven very fine animals,
1 was enabled to become better acquainted with their

,' /

1)(k;s.

t\iii\

gootl qualities than could possibly have been the case
by the casual visits of Eskimaux to the ships.

The form of the Eskimaux dog is very similar to
that of our shepherd's dogs in England, but he is
more muscular and broad chested, owing to the con-
stant and severe work to which he is brought up. His
ears are pointed, and the aspect of the head is some-
what savage. In size a fine dog is about the height of
the Newfoundland breed, but broad like a mastiff in
every part, except the nose. The hair of the coat is
in summer, as well as in winter, very long, but during
the cold season, a soft downy under covering is found,
which does not appear in warm weather. Young dogs
are put into harness as soon as they can walk, and
being tied up, soon acquire a habit of pulling, in their
attempts to recover their liberty, or to roam in quest
of their mothers. When about two months old,
they are put into the sledge with the grown dogs,
and sometimes eight or ten little ones are under the
charge of some steady old animal, where with fre-
quent, and sometimes cruel beatings, they soon re-
ceive a competent education. Every dog is distin-
guished by a particular name, and the angry repetition
of it has an effect as instantaneous as an application
of the whip, which instrument is of an immense
IcLgth, having a lash of from eighteen to twenty-four
feet, while the handle is of one foot only. With
this, by throwing it on one side or the other of the
leader, and repeating certain words, the animals are
guided or stopped. Wah-iiya, a-ya, whooa, to the

334

DOOS.

right. A-wha, a-wlui, u-whfit, to the left. A-look,
turn, and wtiori, stop. Wlien th(* sledj^je is sto])pe(l,
tliey are all taught to lie down, by throwing tlio
whip gently over their backs, and they will remain
in this position even for hours, until their master
returns to them.

Such of the natives as have not a sufficient number
of dogs to draw a sledge are followed to the Maook-
pok by all which belong to them. A walrus is fre-
quently drawn along by three or four of them, and
seals are sometimes carried home in the same manner,
though I have, in some instances, seen a dog bring
home the greater part of a seal in panniers placed
across his back. This mode of conveyance is often
used in the summer, and the dogs also carry skins
or furniture overland to the sledges, when their
masters are going on any expedition.

It might be supposed that in so cold a climate
these animals had peculiar periods of gestation, like the
wild creatures j but on the contrary, they bear young
at every season of the year, and seldom exceed five
at a litter. In December, with the thermometer
40° below zero, the females were, in several in-
stances, in heat. Cold has very little effect on these
animals, for although the dogs at the huts slept
within the snow passages, mine at the ships had no
shelter, but lay alongside, with the thermometer at
42° and 44°, and with as little concern as if the
weather had been mild.

I found, by several experiments, that three of my

LAND ANIMALS.

;J!)5

uiy

dogs could draw mv on a sledge, weighing lOO lbs.,
at the rate of one mile in six minutes; and as a
proof of the strength of a well-grown dog, my leader
drew llK) lbs. singly, and to the same distance in
eight minutes *. Whoever has had the patience to
read this account, will laugh at my introducing my
team so frequently in a professed account of Kski-
maux dogs generally; but 1 can only offer, as my
excuse, the merits of my poor animals, with which 1
have often, with one or two persons besides myself,
on the sledge, returned home from the Fury, a di-
stance of near a mile, in pitchy darkness, and amidst
clouds of snow drift, entirely under the care of those
trusty servants, who, with their noses down to the
snow, have gallopped on board entirely directed by
their sense of smelling. Had they erred, or been at
all restive, no human means could have brought us
on board until the return of clear weather.

Land animals, and hoxv procured* — I shall first
enumerate such creatures as are procured by the bow,
and amongst these shall include birds of different
species.

* At another time, seven of my dogs ran a mile in four minutes
thirty seconds, drawing a heavy sledge full of men. I stopped
to time them j but liad I ridden they would have gone equally
fast: in fact, I afterwards found that ten dogs took live minutes
to go over the same space. Afterwards, in carrying stores to the
Fury, one mile distant, nine dogs drew 1611 lbs. in the space of
nine minutes! My sledge was on wooden runners, neither shod
nor iced j had they been the latter, at least 40 lbs. might liave
been added for every dog.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

11.25

Lit2A |25
■^ Uii |2.2

1.4 lil.6

HiotQgraphic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREIT

WEBSTER, N.Y. 145*0

(716) S73-4S03

350

RKIN-DEKII.

Of the form of the rein-deer it is unnecessary tor
me to attempt a particular description. He visits
the polar regions at the latter end of May or the
early part of June, and remains until late in Sep^
tember. On his first arrival he is thin, and his Hesh
is tasteless, but the short summer is sufficient to fatten
him to two or three inches on the haunches. When
feeding on level ground, an Eskimaux makes no at-
tempt to approach him, but should a few rocks be
near, the wary hunter feels secure of his prey. Be-
hind one of these he cautiously creeps, and having
laid himself very close, with his bow and arrow be-
fore him, imitates the bellow of the deer when call-
ing to each other. Sometimes, for more complete
deception, the hunter wears his deer-skin coat and
hood so drawn over his head, as to resemble, in a
great measure, the unsuspecting animals he is en-
ticing. Though the bellow proves a considerable at-
traction, yet if a man has great patience, he may do
without it, and may be equally certain that his prey
will ultimately come to examine him ^ the rein-deer
being an inquisitive animal, and at the same time so
silly, that if he sees any suspicious object which is
not actually chasing him, he will gradually, and after
many caperings and forming repeated circles, ap-
proach nearer and nearer to it. The Eskimaux
rarely shoot until the creature is within twelve paces,
and I have frequently been told of their being killed
at a much shorter distance. It is to be observed,
that the hunters never appear openly, but employ

HUNTING.

337

ssary lor
le visits
f or the
in Sep-
his Hesh
to fatten
When
as no at-
rocks be
3y. Be-
i having
xrow bc-
hen call-
complete
coat and
ble, in a
le is en-
rable at-
may do
lis prey
ein-deer
time so
which is
nd after
les, ap-
skimaux
e paces,
g killed
^served,
employ

stratagem for their pui-pose ; thus by patience and
ingenuity rendering their nidely formed bows, and
still worse arrows, as effective as the rifles of Euro-
peans. When two men hunt in company, they
sometimes purposely show themselves to the deer,
and when his attention is fully engaged, wjik slowly
away from him, one before the other. The deer
follows, and when the hunters arrive near a stone,
the foremost drops behind it and prepares his bow,
while his companion continues walking steadily for-
ward. This latter the deer still follows unsuspect-
ingly, and thus passes near the concealed man, who
takes a deliberate aim and kills the animal. When
the deer assemble in herds, there are particular passes
which they invariably take, and on being driven to
them are killed with arrows by the men, while the
women, with shouts, drive them to the water. Here
they swim with the ease and activity of water-dogs ;
the people in kayaks chasing and easily spearing them :
the carcasses float, and the hunter then presses for-
ward and kills as many as he finds in his track. No
springes, or traps, are used in the capture of these
animals, as is practised to the southward, in conse-
quence of the total absence of standing wood. Musk-
oxen are killed in the same manner as deer; and
with both it is requisite, on account of their quick
scent, to make advances against the wind, or, to use
a sea phrase, to have them in the " wind's eye."
Hares arc also killed with arrows, and being quiet
animals, are easily caught sitting, liy those wlio know

ans

BIUD-CATCTIIN(;.

their liauiits. Grouse being in large coveys, present
an extensive mark for the liunter; and as they are
stupid, and not easily persuaded to fly, will see the
arrow fall amongst them with the greatest uncon-
cern. The shooter walks to pick it up, and they re-
move a few paces only before him, so that he has re-
peated shots. Swans, geese, ducks, and other birds,
if lying in the hunter's path, are killed by the same
weapon ; but they are so much more easily obtained
by other means, that he never moves out for the
express purpose of shooting them. Opinions vary
considerably respecting the skill which the Eskimaux
display in archery; but I am of that party which
condemns them as very indifferent marksmen.

Ducks and divers of all descriptions, which fre-
quent lakes, are caught by whalebone nooses, which
being fastened in great numbers to a long line, and
stretched between stones, placed at intervals across
shallow lakes, easily catch the birds while diving for
their prey, or more frequently, from being alarmed
by women and children stationed for the pui'pose.
The noose hangs below the water, but no sooner
closes on a bird than the captive rises to the surface,
where, when seen, some one wades in and secures
him. Swans are caught by springes set in their nest,
or near it, and the whalebone has sufficient strength
to hold the bird by the foot until it can be taken out.
The moulting season is the great bird harvest, as a
few persons, wading into the shallow lakes, can soon
tire out and catch the birds by hand. Marmottes

WOLF-TRAPS.

J39

resent
ey are
;ec the
iincon-
liey re-
has re-
' birds,
e same
atained
for the
is vary
kimaux
which

•

icli fre-
, which
nc, and
i across
ing for
ilanned
ui'pose.
sooner
surface,
secures
ir nest,
rengtli
en out.
st, as a
n soon
mottes

and ermines, but more especially the former, are
caught by women, who suspend a noose over their
hole, and catch them with great ease. Marmotte
skins are frequently procured, in one summer, by a
single female, to make herself a pair of breeches, in
which she takes great pride ; and some even equip a
child or two besides themselves.

I now come to the traps used to catch wolves and
foxes, and which are of two kinds in winter. The
first is made of strong slabs of ice, long and narrow,
so that a fox can with difficulty turn himself in it, but
a wolf must actually remain in the position in which
he is taken. The door is a heavy portcullis of ice,
sliding in two well secured grooves of the same sub-
stance, and is kept up by a line, which, passing over
the top of the trap, is carried through a hole at the
farthest extremity : to the end of the line is fiistened
a small hoop of whalebone, and to this any kind
of flesh bait is attached. From the slab which ter-
minates the trap, a projection of ice, or a peg of wood
or bone, points inwards near the bottom, and under
this the hoop is lightly hooked : the slightest pull at
the bait liberates it, and the door falls in an instant.
Foxes are sometimes taken out by hand, but a wolf
is speared as he lies confined. The second kind of
trap is like a small lime-kiln in form, having a hole
near the top, within which the bait is placed, and
the foxes, for these animals alone are thus taken, are
obliged to advance to it over a piece of whalebone,

'i'2

340

riSHTNCi.

which, bending beneath their weight, lets them into
prison, and then resumes its former position : thus a
great number of them are sometimes caught in a
night. In the summer they are but rarely taken,
and it is then by means of a trap of stones, formed
like the ice-trap, with a falling door.

Manner of fishing, — There is less art practised in
procuring fish than any other article of Eskiniaux
food. One kind only is caught in salt water; this
is the sillock, a small dark fish, left in poqls at certain
spots, by the falling of the tide, when it is easily
taken by the children.

In fresh water, at the spawning season, salmon are
caught in great numbers at the little rushes of water
which fall from particular lakes or rivulets into the
sea. The Eskimaux wade up to the middle in the
water, and with the kak-kg-wSy, or little nippers,
continue striking down until a fish is taken ; they
then throw their captive on shore, and continue
striking for others. One man can load a sledge with
them in a day, but the season does not last long, and
many hands render the prey timid. The salmon we
saw were small sweet-flavoured fish, weighing about
6 or 7 lbs. The other very simple process of taking
salmon trout in lakes, is by having a small ivory fish
attached to a string, continually bobbed in the water
until some curious trout comes to gaze at it, when
he is immediately struck by the kakkeway. The
fishers are generally boys, and the season is at the

(;K()(;UAi»iiirM. knuwlkih;k.

a41

close of the year, when the newly formed ice will
siifely bear their weight.

1 have seen a rude kind of fish-hook, but whether
it is used for taking fish with bait, or by jigging foi'
thein, I know not, although, from the description of
the natives, I suspect the latter.

Travelling, and ej:tent of ^geographical knowledge.
— The propensity to ramble is one of the remark-
able characteristics of the Eskimaux, who, in this
particular, resemble the Arabs of the desert, prefer-
ing the most desolate and inhospitable countries to
those which are clothed with wood and vegetation.
It is true that the sea animals are found in abundance
in the icy ocean, yet there are some stations which
have also rein-deer, musk oxen, and birds, in addi-
tion to these, but which are rarely visited, though m
nearly the same parallel of latitude. There are no
regularly established settlements along an immense
extent of coast, at which the Eskimaux can be said
to have a fixed habitation ; but there are three or
four which are considered as general mustering
places, and are, from year to year, changing their
population. Thus for instance, Igloolik, in conse-
quence of our known intention of visiting it, proved
the most attractive wintering quarter, and at least
half the dwellers along the coast hurried to assemble
there. This last place. Repulse Bay, Akoolee (by
all accounts three days west of it, and on the sea
coast), and Noowook, or Wager River, are the prin-
cipal rendezvous along the N.E. shores o( America :

•,U2

MANNKU ANI>

IT*

and at some one of these there is annually a jijather-
ing of the small hunting; ])arties, who have roamed
about during the summer, and who winter in a body.
There are few people who have not seen each of the
above-named places; and the importance assumed
by a great Eskimaux traveller, is fully equal to that
displayed by Europeans who have seen the world.
Nothing indeed affords more gratification to a man
newly arrived, than to ask him of the places he has
recently quitted, unless it be to inquire also of his
success in hunting or fishing, or the abundance of
food he has enjoyed during the summer. In tra-
velling, the Eskimaux are entirely guided by well-
known points or objects on the shore ; and therefore,
though they know the cardinal points of the com-
pass, and are also acquainted with particular stars,
they have, as far as 1 can learn, but little occasion
to depend on the clearness of the heavens, or the
presence of the sun. The setting in of winter, when
the ground is well covered with snow, and the land
ice firmly formed, is one of the principal times of
moving, as the sledges can then travel conveniently,
and food is obtained from day to day, in consequence
of their vicinity to open water.

At night snow huts are speedily constructed, warm
skins arc spread, atid the lamps are lighted for cook-
ing and heating the dwellings. In the morning the
travellers pursue their route. Of the rate at which
a certain space may be travelled over, it is impossible
to have an idea, as all accounts varv; for th

reason,

KXTKNT or 'niAVKI.MNC.

.'J4.i

if :i p'cat prize of Hesli is taken, it is customary to
remain and feed until it is devoured ; if repeated
Nuccess attends the hunters, many of these feasting'
stoppages occur; but if, on tlie other hand, their
captures are few, they have nothing to impede their
progress. The second time of journeying is in the
early summer, before tlie land ice has parted from the
shores; along this the sledges proceed easily, as it is
then free from snow. At night, tents are pitched on
the shore, from which also the winter clothing has
began to disappear, and in consequ^nce, deer ar»3
found travelling northwards.

Here, as in autumn, success, or the contrary, de-
termines the period of travelling. A third way of
passing from place to place, in summer, is by moving
along amongst the hills, killing deer, catching iish
and small animals. At the close of this short season
of happiness, the settlement nearest at hand is se-
lected for the winter quarters. If small livers or
lakes lie across the track, the men ferry over their
wives and children on their kayaks, which gj lerally
are carried with them in frames, one person Vicing
taken across at a time : if grown up, they lie on
their belly, and balance with hands and legs on the
hind covering of the boat ; but if children, they are
seated in the lap of the man who paddles. Any
weighty goods, for example, a bone sledge, &c. are
frequently left in store on the banks ; and as every
streamlet, lake, bay, point, or island, has a name,
and even certain piles of stones have also appella-

ill

341

MANNKK AND

tions, it is easy, in sume ensuing year, tu Hnd the
things which are buried, or even to describe their
situation to others. It is remarkable, that in enu-
merating the various sleeps, or days' journeys along
the shore, every one has a particular name, in the
same manner as the Alcims, or piles of stones on the
African desert, and which are also placed by tra-
vellers to mark the usual resting-places or wells.

The Eskimaux, even those who have roamed to a
short distance only, are acquainted traditionally with
their own country ; and I have seen charts of a line
of coast drawn by persons who never were on it, with
nearly the same remarks, and exactly the same names,
as those traced by experienced travellers. The whole
space of country traversed by the tribe with whom we
were acquainted extends from Noowook to Igloolik,
and is about ninety miles north of this latter ; a di-
stance of but few miles in a direct line, but compre-
hending an immense number of deep inlets, bays,
and islands. There are again distant tribes, with
whom communication is occasionally held, and who
are situated eight or ten days to the north-eastward.
This distant tribe, from all accounts, di£Pers, and in-
deed is distinct from our people, yet intermarriages
have taken place amongst them, and there are annu-
ally some travellers to and from them ; but this oc-
curs before the sea begins to break up, as it is over
salt water ice that four days* journey must be per-
foimed. There are, besides, some smaller establish-
ments on various northern islands, and in bays, of

KXTKNT Ol rUAVELLlNli.

;J4o

vvliicli, as i liave not obtained sutist'actory intelli-
gence, I shall make no other mention than that they
are strangers. One nation, however, is nearer at
hand, respecting whom none oi' our informants seem
well acquainted ; those are the inhabitants of South-
ampton Island, which, though in sight from Repulse
Hay and Noowook, appears never to be visited. Our
people gave to it, and to its natives, the name of
Khiad-ler-mi-6 ; and it is observable, that they hold
these near, but unknown neighbours, in the most
sovereign contempt, considering them as savages,
and as vastly inferior to themselves.

Captain Parry agrees with me in opinion, that the
term I have employed is used by our polished acquaint-
ances in the same manner, and to the same extent, as
the appellation of barbari, which the Greeks, and after
them the Romans, so liberally bestowed on all other
nations but their own. The savages we saw in Hud-
son's Strait, and the land they occupy, appear to be
quite unknown, and for a very clear reason. No
oomiaks have been seen, or are used by our tribe,
and no direct communication therefore can ever have
taken place by families, and perhaps so rarely by
single kayaks, as not to be remembered.

The £skimaux do not, like many other wild
people, imagine that there is no world besides that
which they occupy; but have some faint ideas of
what the unseer countries are, and take great plea-
sure in hearing of them. They have many tra-
ditionary stories of Kabloona and Indians; of the

.'ii()

OIMNIUNS OF STUANt;KJUS.

14^

latter of vvhoni, under the name It-kii^h-lTe, they
speak with fear and abhorrence : but the former,
unhkc the kabloonas of the early Grecnlanders, are
not looked upon as differing in species from them-
selves, hut as a good people, who have plenty of
wood and iron. This character, of course, may be
traced from the time of the establishment of our
factories in Hudson's Bay, which have a constant
communication with the Noowook people through
the intervening tribes, who however do not consti-
tute a part of the northern family, or, as far as I can
learn, form any settlements north of Chesterfield
Inlet, and rarely even so high as at that place.

The limits of our certain information are these :
Nowook to the southward, Igloolik to the northward,
and the land between them bounded on either side
by sea. Thus, at Akkoolee, three days to the west-
ward of Repulse Bay, according to all apcounts, the
main ocean is arrived at. It stretches to the west-
ward as far as can be seen from the settlement ; but
u farther knowledge does not seem to have been ob-
tained, as it is the opinion of the Eskimaux that no
animals for food are to be found along its banks.
From Akkoolee the sea is traced to the northward
as far as the strait which we examined in September
1822, and which is named by the natives Khee-mig,
or the closed, being, as we found it, constantly choked
with ice. None have passed this by water, yet it
opens to the westward in the main ocean. The
islands to the north of this strait are large, but it is

', tlu'v
briuor,
}rs, are

them-
jnty of
may be
of our
oiistant
hrough

consti-
^ I can
iterfieUl

; these :
thward,
licr side
le west-
its, the
le west-
it ; but
een ob-

hat no

banks.
Ithward

tember
e-mig,

choked
yet it
The

iut it is

(;knkuai, disposition.

317

known tliat a sea, perhaps a frozen one, is lieyond
them. Of the eastern coast 1 need make no mention,
as we have examined it all from Repulse Hay ; hut I
cannot conclude without bestowin*^ deserved praise
on several of our native hydrographers, for the won-
derful correctness of their charts of the coast.

CKNEllAL DISPOSITION.

Tloncstij. — I verily believe that there does not
exist a more honest set of people than the 1 rihe with
whom we had so long an ac(puiintance. Aimonijst
themselves they never even touch each other's pro-
perty without permission, and on board the ships
their scruples were the same. I have mentioned a
few trilling appropriations, for thefts 1 can hardly
call them, which were made without our consent ;
but it is only justice to allow that our unreserved
distribution of iron, and the quantity of empty tin
vessels thrown away on the dirt heap alongside, were
of themselves sutticient inducement for some few of
the natives to take such articles away, even from the
decks.

We should also consider the amazing temptations
constantly thrown in the way of poor ignorant
savages, possessed neither of wood nor iron, and
esteeming these two substances as much as we do
gold or jewels. Our acquaintances, on the whole,
amounted to about '200 people, yet only three out
of that number were considered as determined thieves.

iiki

c;en£Kai. disposition.

U.-t*

and they peif'orined their work so clumsily as to be
instantly detected. To weigh with these, very nu-
merous instances of honesty might be mentioned ;
and when things have been really dropped on the
ice, or otherwise lost, the Eskimaux, on picking them
up, have invariably brought them to be owned on
board. Notwithstanding this, however, they have
one very glaring and yet natural fault, which is
Envy, This passion exists amongst them to the
highest degree. The possession of any desirable
article by another, is sui&cient to draw down on him
a bad name from the man who covets it ; and the
women are much addicted to blackening the cha-
racter of any sister who enjoys a more than usual
quantity of beads, tin pots, &c. This vice leads
naturally to its very near relation.

Begging, Every one begs; but their demands
are invariably introduced with a piteous story of the
favours conferred on some other, and an assertion of
their own right to be equally well treated. Yet,
when presents are given, they are never content,
and the passion appears to increase with the favours
received.

Gratitude is not only rare, but absolutely un-
known amongst them, either by action, word, or
look, beyond the first outcry of satisfaction. Nursing
their sick, burying the dead, clothing and feeding
the whole tribe, furnishing the men with weapons,
and the women and children with ornaments, are
insufficient to awaken a grateful feeling, and the very

('.ENERAT- DTSPdSITrON.

fV19

as to be
very nu-
itioned ;
[ on the
ug them
vned on
ley have
which is
[ to the
desirable
1 on him
and the
the cha-
an usual
ce leads

demands
ry of the
ertion of
1. Yet,
content,
favours

tely un-
rord, or
Nursing
feeding
weapons,
nts, are
the very

people who relieved their distresses when starving,
are laughed at in time of plenty, for the quantity
and quality of the food which was bestowed in
charity.

Lying, The envious disposition of these pcojde
naturally leads them into falsehood; but their lies
consist only in vilifying each other's character, with
false accusations of theft or ill behaviour. When
asking questions of an individual, it is but rarely that
he will either advance or persist in an untruth. They
are very tenacious of being termed " thief," or " liar."
I am sorry to be so ungallant as to agree with
Crantz, that lying, envy, and quarrelling, are almost
exclusively confined to the ladies ; and to this list
begging may safely be added.

Hospitality. Of this virtue, we had a most con-
vincing proof in the treatment we received when
strangers, wet and cold, we found shelter for a night
in their tents, July l6th, 1822. On that occasion,
both sexes gave up their clothes and bedding for
our use, warming us, hauling our boat over the ice,
and assisting us in every way, and in the kindest
manner. The women in particular, though insuf-
ferably dirty, and covered with train oil, showed the
greatest tenderness and solicitude for our comfort,
though subsequently they were too apt to remind
us, whenever they wanted any thing, of the shelter
they had once afforded us. An Eskimaux is equally
hospitable as an Arab, and whatever food he possesses
is free to all who enter. He never eats with closed

iim

(iKNKRAI. nisrosiTION.

:4,-

doors, but Uy his mnnncr convinces his visitors that
they arc welcome. I liavc slept seven or eight times,
without another European, in different huts ; and
invariably have met with the same attention ; my
property was respected by my hosts, even though
begged by others ; the best seat was assigned, and a
portion of food oiiered me, while I was even thanked
for accepting and eating it. As a proof that all this
proceeded from motives of pure hospitality, if 1 the
next day entered the hut, and asked even a bit of
moss, I was required to pay for it, besides which
every thing in my possession was begged of me.

Temper. Though the Eskimaux do not ])osse8s
UHich of the milk of human kindness, yet their even
temper is in the highest degree praiseworthy. In
pain, cold, starvation, disappointment, or under
rough treatuuMit, their good humour is rarely ruffled.
Few have ever shown symptoms of sulkiness, and even
then for a short time only. Those who for an in-
stant feel anger at neglect, or at being punished for
some offence, are, in a few moments, as lively and as
well disposed to the persons who affronted them as
if nothing had occurred. No serious quarrels or
blows happen amongst themselves, and the occasional
little instances of spite which I have mentioned are
the only disagreement they have.

Revenge. The detestable passion of almost all
savages is I believe here unknown, and I could learn
of no instances of any one man having ever killed
am)ther, or of a son imbibing from his father any

MAHRIACSK.

IWI

;ors til at
lit times*
its ; niul
on ; my

though
id, niul a
thanked
t all this
if 1 the
Ji bit of
is which
me.

t possess
leir even
thy. In
r under
r ruffled,
md even
r an in-
shed for
y and as

hem as
rrcis or
casional
ned are

nost all
Id leani
r killed
ler any

dislike towards particular persons. At the distant
northern settlements, however, of which we know
nothing but by report, murders are said to be fre-
((uently committed.

Coitra^Cy and that too in an eminent degree,
must be allowed to a people who dare to face the
terrific Polar bear, and even to kill it in single com-
bat, with oidy the assistance of their dogs. There
is an independent fearless expression iii the coun-
tenance and person of an Kskinuuix, which is highly
striking. The firm walk, erect head, and unbending
eye, all denote a man who feels confident of himself.
An insensibility of danger is accpiired also in ven-
turing amongst young or loose ice, which by a change
of wind or unseen ru])tion, might carry them to cer-
tain starvation and death at sea. 'J'his very indif-
ference has, however, been the means of many men
having fallen through the ice, and some lew women
also, who have never risen again, and whose families
have told the story of their fate.

MAURI AGE, BIGAMY, &;C.

It is a very general custcmi for jfarents to betroth
their children in infancy, and this coin])act being
understood, the parties, whenever they are in-
clined, and able to keep house, nuiy begin living us
man and wife. Thus it is that so many very young
couples arc seen, and that our arrival was the means
of some marriages being made in consecjuence of the

352

MARRIAGE AND BIGAMY.

l^^ .

youthful bridegrooms being enriched by our presents
of household and hunting furniture. The husband,
though young, is still a manly person, and a good
hunter ; but the wife, in two or three instances, could
not be above twelve or thirteen years of age, and to
all appearance a mere child. Where previous engage-
ments are not made, the men select wives amongst
their relatives or connexions, paying but little regard
to beauty of face ; and as to person, that is equally
out of the question. Young men naturally prefer
youthful females ; but the middle-aged will connect
themselves with old widows, as being more skilled
in household duties, and better able to take care
of their mutual comforts. I cannot pretend to
guess at what are the requisite qualifications of a
woman in the eye of an Eskimaux, independent of
her skill in housewifery. There is decidedly no
ceremony by which married people are connected,
and I am quite unable to distinguish in what a wife
differs from a concubine, for there are some women
in that situation, as both, for the time, receive the
same title. I never, however, observed a woman
living in this manner in the same family with an ac-
knowledged wife. Bigamy is common, but I could
hear of no instances of men having more than two
wives ; the greater portion, indeed, of those we knew
had but one. Divorced women are frequent, but
they soon, by marriage, or otherwise, form other con-
nexions. Widows who have friends and good hcaltli,

KSTIMATION OF WOMKN\

353

fare equally well with those females who have husbands ;
but illness, or want of friends, seals their fate, and if
they are unable by prostitution to support themselves,
they are left to starve with their children. Cousins
are allowed to marry, but a man will not wed two
sisters. A son or daughter-in-law does not consider
father or mother-in-law in the light of relations. The
most extraordinary connexion is that by adoption,
for there are few families which have not one or two
adopted sons, their proper progeny being in like
manner adopted by others. A wealthy man will, in
this manner, take fine stout youths under his pro-
tection, and is thereby insured of being supported in
his old age, and having good assistance, while yet
himself a hunter. This curious connexion binds
the parties as firmly together as the ties of blood, and
an adopted son, if senior to one by nature, is the
heir to all the family riches. This exchange of
children is frequently made between families already
related or connected, and I am aware of but one
instance of a girl being Tegoo-wa-gha, while her
natural parents were alive.

Estimation of women, — The women are treated well ;
are rarely, if ever, beaten ; are never compelled to work,
and are always allowed an equal authority in household
affairs with the men. Though a phlegmatic people, the
Eskimaux may be said to treat them with fondness,
and young couples are frequently seen rubbing noses,
their favourite mark of affection, with an air of
tenderness. Yet even those men and women who

•»>

A A

354

ESTIMATION OF WOMEN.

seem most fond of each other, have no scruples on
the score of mutual infidelity, and the husband is
willingly a pander to his own shame. A woman
details her intrigues to her husband with the most
perfect unconcern, and will also answer to any charge
of the kind made before a numerous assemblage of
people. Husbands prostitute wives, brothers sisters,
and parents daughters, without showing the least
signs of shame. It is considered extremely friendly
for two men to exchange wives for a day or two,
and the request is sometimes made by the women
themselves. These extraordinary civilities, although
known, are never talked of, and are contrived as
secretly as possible.

Even the very early age of a female is not con-
sidered, either by herself or her wretched companions,
who are all equally willing to assist in bringing her
forward. In this deplorable state of morals and com-
mon decency, it is extraordinary that in general con-
versation not an immodest word or gesture can be
detected ; when men and women are mixed together,
and in dancing or singing parties, the females have a
seat apart, the conduct of both sexes being extremely
decorous.

When parties are out fishing, such young men as
are at home make no scruple of intriguing with
other's wives, yet if the injured husband hears of
it, it gives him little or no uneasiness. Divorced
women and widows, and even young and well-
looking girls, are equally liberal of their persons.

TREATIVIENT OF CTIII-DIIEN.

355

pies on
)and is
woman
le most
' charge
blage of

sisters,
le least
friendly
or two,

women
Ithougli
•ived as

lOt con-
)anions,
ring her
nd com-
;ral con-
can be
)gether,
3 have a
tremely

men as
ig with
lears of
)ivorced
d well-
Ipersons.

There is one very remarkable fact attached to this
general depravity, which is that we never heard of
any quarrels arising respecting women, and this may
be attributed to the men being totally unacquainted
with such a passion as love, or its frequent attendant,
jealousy. Two wives, however, will sometimes have
a quarrel about the preference of their husband, and
a pull by the hair, or a scratched face, has been
known to have passed between the disputants. It is
a generally allowed opinion that the farther North
man is settled, the more dwindled is his form, hisin-
tellect, and his passions ; and in these last, the £ski-
maux are certainly different from any race of beings I
ever saw or heard of. With all their indifference to
morality,these people, but particularly the women,have
a great dread of exposing any part of their persons,
and in this respect are really very bashful. Blushes
are by no means unknown, and may be easily excited,
even in the men. I have already, in my journal,
mentioned an instance of the loose behaviour of the
women when the men are absent, and believe that
at these female assemblages their conduct, when not
liable to interruption, is frantic and licentious in the
extreme.

Treatment of children, — Although no Eskimaux
can have the least certainty of being the father of his
wife's children, yet if she brings progeny, he is very
indifferent as to their legitimacy, and considers them
as undoubtedly his own. Nothing can be more
delightful than the fondness which parents show

aa2

356

CONDUCT TO THE AGED.

h ■ ■

to their little ones during infancy. The mothers
carry them naked on their backs, until they are
stout and able walkers, and their whole time and
attention Jire occupied in nursing and feeding them.
The fathers make little toys, play with, and are
constantly giving them whatever assistance lies in their
power. A child is never corrected or scolded, but
has its own way in every thing. Their tempers are,
however, excellent ; their spirits good, and they are
affectionate towards their parents. As they grow up,
however, they become independent, but still consider
it their duty to obey and assist their father and
mother. Amongst themselves the little ones never
quarrel or fight, and they even play at the roughest
games without losing their temper. Little boys fre-
quently attach themselves to each other, and are in-
separable companions ever after. The amusements
of each sex consist in imitations of their future occu-
pations, and while the boys are making bows, spears,
&c. the little girls are gravely affecting to superintend
the care of a hut and lamp. Parties sometimes join
forces and build small snow places, in which they put
rude models of the furniture of real dwellings.

Conduct to the aged, — Old and helpless persons
lead a quiet undisturbed life, while their own or
adopted children live ; but should their natural sup-
porters die, no one would move a foot to save them
from being frozen or starved to death. The pro-
tection afforded to the poor old wretches is of a negative
sort, for they are fed merely because food is brought

CAIIK OF THE SICK xVNl) DEAD.

357

iiothers
ley are
me and
r them,
ind are
in their
led, but
►ers are,
they are
rrovv up,
consider
ler and
es never
roughest
boys fre-
i are in-
isements
ire occu-

spears,
erintcnd
mes join
they put
:s.

persons

own or
jral sup-
ive them
;'he pro-
negative

brought

for all the inmates of the hut, but no one of their
nearest relatives would in a time of scarcity forego a
mouthful for their accommodation. In moving them
about, they are handled as roughly as if they were in
full vigour ; and if they are performing a journey,
and sinking from fatigue, the stoutest, even of their
own descendants, will not resign to them a scat on
the sledge. The old people, on their side, think
nothing of this neglect : having themselves practised
it to their parents, they do not expect attention in
their own helpless state.

Care of the sick and dead. — To the sick who have
relations living under the same roof, little or no at-
tention is paid ; sympathy or pity being equally un-
known. A wife attends on her sick husband, because
she knows that his death would leave her destitute ;
but if any other person would take the trouble off her
hands, she would never even ask to see or at all inquire
after him. A man will leave his dying wife without
caring who attends her during his absence ; a woman
will walk to the ships in high spirits while her husband
is lying neglected and at death's door in a solitary hut.
A brother will not be able to inform you if his sick
sister be better or worse, and in her turn a sister will
laugh at the sufferings of her brother. A sick woman
is frequently built or blocked up in a snow-hut, and not
a soul goes near to look in and ascertain whether she
be alive or dead. I shall have occasion to speak more
at length of this brutal insensibility in my regular
journal, and shall therefore now turn to their care of

1
J

358

SUPEIlSTiriONS.

.s-

■j,

the dead. The relatives alone attend to the corpse,
on which a few slabs of snow are placed, and if the dogs
choose to devour the body, they do so undisturbed,
for not a soul would take the trouble again to cover
it. The survivors speak of these horrors with far less
concern than they would of a dog's stealing a small
piece of meat.

Superstitions. — Notwithstanding I have, in aformer
page, pledged myself to give some further accounts of
superstitions and other subjects relating to the Eski-
maux, I find that I must now limit myself to a few
observations only, my details having already, in many
instances, exceeded the bounds I had prescribed to
myself in this little volume, and my fears of tiring
the patience of my reader predominating even over
the wish to fulfil my promise.

The Eskimaux, like all other savages, possess a
large share of superstition ; but our imperfect know-
ledge of their language necessarily prevented our
tracing any of their ceremonies to their source : I
shall, therefore, only state such peculiar super-
stitions and customs as I myself observed, though
without pretending to order or connexion.

Amongst our Igloolik acquaintances were two fe-
male and a few male wizards, of whom the principal
was Toolemak. This personage was cunning and
intelligent, and, whether professionally, or from his
skill in the chase, but perhaps from both reasons, was
considered by all the tribe as a man of importance.
As I invariably paid great deference to his opinion

SUPERSTITIONS.

359

coq)se,
;he dogs
sturbed,
to cover
[ far less

a small

a former
:ounts of
he Eski-
to a few
in many
iribed to
of tiring
iven over

30ssess a
ct know-
fited our
aurce : I
r super-
though

e two fe-
principal
ling and
from his
sons, was
)ortanee.
opinion

on all subjects connected with his calling, he freely
communicated to me his superior knowlec'ge, and did
not scruple to allow of my being present at his inter-
views with Tornga, or his patron spirit. In con-
sequence of this, I took an early opportunity of re-
questing my friend to exhibit his skill in my cabin.
His old wife was with him, and by much flattery, and
an accidental display of a glittering knife and some
beads, she assisted me in obtaining my request. All
light excluded, our sorcerer began chanting to his
wife with great vehemence, and she in return an-
swered by singing the Amna-aya, which was not dis-
continued during the whole ceremony. As far as I
could hear, he afterwards began turning himself ra-
pidly round, and in a loud powerful voice vociferated
for Tornga with great impatience, at the same time
blowing and snorting like a walrus. His noise, im-
patience, and agitation increased every moment, and
he at length seated himself on the deck, varying his
tones, and making a rustling with his clothes.

Suddenly the voice seemed smothered, and was so
managed as to sound as if retreating beneath the
deck, each moment becoming more distant, and ul-
timately giving the idea of being many feet below
the cabin, when it ceased entirely. His wife now,
in answer to my queries, informed me very seriously
that he had dived, and that he would send up Tornga.
Accordingly, in about half a minute, a distant blowing
was heard very slowly approaching, and a voice
which differed from that we at first had heard, was

300

Sri'KUSTITlOXS.

at times mingled with the blowing, until at length
both sounds became distinct, and the old woman
informed me that Tornga was come to answer my
questions. I accordingly asked several questions of
the sagacious spirit, to each of which inquiries I re-
ceived an answer by two loud slaps on the deck,
which I was given to understand were favourable.
A very hollow, yet powerful voice, certainly much
different from the tones of Toolemak, now chanted
for some time, and a strange jumble of hisses, groans,
shouts, and gabblings like a turkey, succeeded in rapid
order. The old woman sang with increased energy,
and, as I took it for granted that this was all in-
tended to astonish the Kabloona, I cried repeatedly
that I was very much afraid. This, as I expected,
added fuel to the fire, until the poor immortal, ex-
hausted by its own might, asked leave to retire. The
voice gradually sank from our hearing as at first, and
a very indistinct hissing succeeded : in its advance,
it sounded like the tone produced by the wind on
the base chord of an Eolian harp; this was soon
changed to a rapid hiss like that of a rocket, and
Toolemak with a yell announced his return. I had
held my breath at the first distant hissing, and twice
exhausted myself, yet our conjuror did not once
respire, and even his returning and powerful yell was
uttered without a previous stop or inspiration of air.
Light being admitted, our wizard, as might be
expected, was in a profuse perspiration, and cer-
tainly much exhausted by his exertions, which had

SUPEHSTITIONS.

3()1

continued for at least half an hour. We now ob-
served a couple of bundles, each consisting of two
stripes of white deer-skin and a long piece of sinew,
attached to the back of his coat. TIu'mc \ e had not
seen before, and were infornncd that they had been
sewn on by the Tornga while he was below.

I have already said that Toolcinak*s spirit with
whom he conferred on this occasion was a female ; but
he has on the whole no less than ten superior beings,
and a countless host of minor sprites. With the first
ten he holds constant communion, and transacts with
them all business relative to the health or worldly
welfare of those who consult and pay him. The above
important personages are thus named: Ay-willi-
ay-oo, or NooW-ay-oo, the female spirit of whose
conversation I have spoken ; her father Nappa-yook,
or An-now-tu-lig, of whom more anon ; Pam"J-6o-li,
a male spirit of considerable importance ; Oo-to5k,
or 0(5na-lie, a male of a gigantic size ; Ka-miek, a
female ; Amug-yoO-a and Atta-nS-ghiooa, two bro-
thers, and as far as I can learn chief patrons of the
country about Amityook ; PGck-im-na, a female who
lives in a fine country far to the west, and who is
the immediate protectress of deer, which animals
roam in immense herds round her dwelling ; a large
bear, which lives on the ice at sea, and is possessed
of vast information — he speaks like a man, and often
meets with and converses with the initiated on their
hunting excursions ; and the last is Eeghak, a male of
whom I can obtain no information. Out of this host of

SUPERSTITIONS.

h:^

^ t H-

■■■» ».

superior spirits the two first are pre-eminent, although
the female is decidedly the most important in the
eyes of the Eskimaux generally, as well as in the
opinion of her favourite votary Toolemak. This
lady is in the first place the mother, protectress, and
not unfrequently the monopolist of sea animals,
which she sometimes very wantonly confines below,
and by that means causes a general scarcity in the
upper world. When this is the case, the annatko is
persuaded to pay her a visit, and attempt the release
of the animals on which his tribe subsist. I know
not what ceremonies he performs at the first part of
the interview ; but as the spell by which the animals
are held lies in the hand of the enchantress, the con-
juror makes some bold attempts to cut it off, and,
according to his success, plenty, more or less, is ob-
tained. If deprived of her nails, the bears obtain
their freedom ; amputation of the first joint liberates
the netyek, or small seal ; while that of the second
loosens the ooghiook, or larger kind. Should the
knuckles be detached, whole herds of walrus rise to
the surface; and should the adventurous annatko
succeed in cutting through the lower part of the
metacarpal bones, the monstrous whales are disen-
thralled, and delightedly join the other creatures of
the deep. In addition to her power over animals,
Aywilliayoo has a boundless command over the lives
and destinies of mankind. Bad men and women
are punished by her in a manner I shall presently
describe ; and her own sex are afflicted with many

SUPERSTITIONS.

363

though
in the
in the

This
ss, and
limals,
below,
in the
latko is
release
[ know
part of
inimals
lie Con-
or, and,
, is ob-
obtain
berates
second
lid the
rise to
nnatko
of the

disen-
;ures of
nimals,
le lives
women
esently
I many

disorders, and sometimes killed, in consequence of
their being careless in the regulation of their diet at
certain periods, and otherwise neglecting the esta-
blished customs: all women therefore profess the
utmost dread of this female avenger, but at the same
time acknowledge that she is very good. Her house
is exceedingly fine, and very like a kabloona looking-
glass ; and, what is still more attractive to an Eskimaux,
it contains plenty of food. Immediately within the
door of her dwelling, which has a long passage of
entrance, is stationed a very large and fierce dog,
which has no tail, and whose hinder quarters are
black. This animal is by some called the husband,
and by others merely the dog of Aywilliayoo ; but
he is generally considered as the father of Indians
and Kabloona by the conjuress. This dog is also one
of the Tornga's agents in the punishment of wicked
souls after death. Aywilliayoo is amazingly partial
to Toolemak, and confers very great favours on him,
which he returns rather ungratefully, for he will-
ingly undertakes the defence of such sick women as
will pay him.

Aywilliayoo is described by her high-priest Too-
lemak as being equally wonderful in her personal
appearance as in her actions. She is very tall, and
has but one eye, which is the left, the place of the
other being covered by a profusion of black hair.
She has one pigtail only, contrary to the established
fashion in the upper Eskimaux world, which is to
wear one on each side the face, and this is of

■ K

e 1

|-5f

■J.-

364

SUPERSTITIONS.

such immense magnitude, that a man can scarcely
grasp it with both hands. Its length is exactly
twice that of her arm, and it descends to her knee.
The hood of her jacket is always worn up.

It is somewhat extraordinary that the father of
this female Polypheme, who is named Nappayook,
and is the next in point of importance, should have
but one arm, the hand of which is covered by a very
large mitten of bear-skin. His history agrees in
many respects with that of the one-armed giant of
the Greenlanders ; but in point of size there is a
vast difference, Nappayook being no larger than a
boy of ten years of age. He bears the character
of a good, quiet sort of person, and is master of
a very nice house, which, however, is not approach-
able, on account of the vast herds of walrus lying
round it, and which with numerous bears make a
most terrific howling. Toolemak acknowledged
very candidly that he had never dared to enter
this mansion, but by looking through the door he
could see that it was good. Another substantial
reason was given why no Eskimaux cared to enter
the house of the Tonga ; he has nothing to eat, and
does not even require it ; in which particular he dif-
fers widely from his daughter, who has a most vora-
cious appetite. I know not if he is the father of all
terrestrial animals, but he is certainly their patron,
and withholds them at times from the Eskimaux.
What methods are taken to make him liberate them
I know not.

SUPERSTITIONS.

365

tron,
aux.
hem

Having now been properly introduced to the Tomga
of my sapient atata, I took the earliest opportunity
of sleeping at his hut, and persuading him to per-
form his ceremonies to a party of his countrymen.
Women and even young lads were excluded, and
old KhTek-e-nekh alone remained. Amongst other
preparations, I observed a man bring in a hard bunch
of moss, over which a flat piece of sinew was stretched,
and confined in its place by a needle stuck upright ;
through its eye was threaded a finer piece of sinew,
which had its ends tied to the moss. This con-
trivance was delivered to the old lady, who informed
me that it was to be carried by Toolemak, as a pre-
sent to his patroness ; the moss being for the lamp,
and the sewing materials for mending the clothes of
the spirit. We were now all arranged in our places,
and one of the two lamps which were burning was put
out ; the whole party crying in an encouraging voice
" Ali-ant-ani," to cheer and expedite the Annatko.
This exclamation was frequently repeated, and I ob-
served that each time a wick was extinguished in
the remaining lamp. Two or three at length were all
that remained alight, and the hut being considerably
darkened, Toolemak in a loud voice began calling
Tornga ! Tornga ! Pamiooli ! Pamiooli ! ya whoi I
hooi! hooi! by which time one solitary wick alone
remained. The old woman began singing, and the
cries of encouragement were added to those of the
wizard. An indescribable screaming continued for
some little time, until we were informed that Tornga

366

SUPEKSTITIONS.

\i.:*-^
a

'i?

■ a'

refused to answer, while any light remained ; this
was as I expected, and we were in instant darkness.
Toolemak now set out to bring the enchantress.
A low base voice, which those who sat near me said
was that of Tornga, soon chanted the same tune,
which I had heard on a former occasion. I found
that the words were unintelligible, even to the na-
tives. The song being finished, a variety of ques-
tions were asked by the Eskimaux in a hurried and
lively manner, to which the spirit answered with
great gravity. To the questions relative to the
chase, the replies were not very explicit, as it is the
policy of the Annatko to leave a salvo for himself,
whichever way the predictions may be fulfilled ; and
Aiwilliaiyoo sung in so strange a manner, as to
cause some little difficulty in the interpretation of
her responses. Cries of more variety than I can
pretend to describe, and the impatient screams and
qujestions of the men, with the loud monotonous
song of the old woman, continued for about half an
hour ; the solitary and powerful chant of the spirit
was again heard, and she retreated with the same
skill as before.

Toolemak, with shouts and strange noises, soon
joined us, and his return to the world was hailed
with great delight. A lamp being brought, the
pale and exhausted Annatko crawled from behind
his screen, and seated himself amongst us.

I could not but remark throughout the whole of
the performance, which lasted about an hour and a

SUPERSTITIONS.

367

half, the wonderful steadiness of our wizard, who,
during his most violent exertions of voice, did not
once appear to move ; for had he done so, I was so
close to the skin behind which he sat, that I must
have perceived it. Neither did I hear any rustling
of his clothes, or even distinguish his breathing,
although his outcries were made with great exertion.
Once however, and once only, a short cough, barely
audible even to me, occurred while the old man was
supposed to be in the other world.

Exhibitions such as I have described are not of
common occurrence, and of course by their rarity
are rendered of greater importance. There is much
rivalship amongst the professors, who do not how-
ever expose each other's secrets, but are very myste-
rious or silent when spoken to on the subject.

In healing sickness, or curing wounds, the most ef-
fectual remedy is to blow on the person or part affected,
at the same time muttering or chanting certain words.
Whatever is done by these national practitioners is
entitled to a reward, which is very strictly exacted,
whether good or ill betide the patient. In addition
to the superstitions supported by the Annatkos,
which supply the place of religious tenets amongst
the Eskimaux, there are various independent and ex-
traordinary fancies differing in every individual.

Bones and teeth of animals, hanging as solitary
pendants, or strung in great numbers, have peculiar
virtues, and the bones of the feet of the Ka-bli-a-
ghioo, which I imagine to be the wolverine, are

368

SUPERSTITIONS.

■A:

■f I

the most in request. The front teeth of musk oxen
are considered as jewels, while the grinders, one or
two together, are much esteemed as tassels for the
strings used to tie up the breeches of the women.
Eye teeth of foxes are sometimes seen to the num-
ber of hundreds, neatly perforated and arranged as
a kind of fringe round caps or dresses, and even the
bones and teeth of fish have their value.

Leather cases of the size of a quill, and containing
small pieces of deer's or other flesh, are frequently
attached to the caps or hoods of children; but
whether to render them expert hunters, or to pre-
serve their health, I could not discover. I was as-
sured that broken spear-heads, and other equally
cumbrous pendants, worn round the necks of young
girls, were spells for the preservation of their chas-
tity; while the same ornaments caused the married
women to be prolific.

The superstitions of the sick appeared to be more
directed by caprice than established custom ; nor did
they follow any particular rule either as to diet or
conduct.

Widows are forbidden, for six months, to taste
of unboiled flesh; they wear no toogleegas or pig-
tails ; and cut off a large portion of their long hair
in token of grief, while the remaining locks hang in
loose disorder about their shoulders. No punish-
ment, however^ is threatened to those who do not
thus disfigure themselves; and a pretty widow at
Igloolik cut so small a portion from her tresses,

■• '

SUPERSTITIONS.

of whose length she was very proud, tliat tlie ab-
sence of tooglegas alone denoted her situation. After
six months the disconsolate ladies are at liberty to
eat raw meat, to dress their pigtails, and to marry as
fast as they please ; while in the mean time they either
cohabit with their future husbands, if they have one,
or distribute their favours more generally. A widower
and his children remain during three days within the
hut where his wife died, after which it is customary
to remove to another. He is not allowed to Hsli or
hunt for a whole season, or in tliat period to marry
again. During the three days of lamentation, all
the relatives of the deceased are quite careless of
their dress, their hair hangs wildly about, and, if
possible, they are more than usually dirty in their
persons. All visitors to a mourning family consider
it as indispensably necessary to howl at their first
entry, and abundance of tears are shed for about
the space of a minute by the women ; after which they
all recover themselves; begin to talk of indifferent
matters, and to eat whatever is at hand. The pre-
sence of the dead body does not at all distress them ;
and I once saw them place their plate of meat on a
little dead child, which lay wrapped within a blanket
in my cabin.

Superstitions relating to children and pregnant
women are but few; yet of these I have scarcely
collected half. It is customary in many cases to name
the child before it is born ; some relative or friend
laying their hand on the mother's stomach, and de-

15 U

370

SUPEnSTITIONS.

■J"

ciding what the infant is to be called, and, as the
same names serve for either sex, it is of no conse-
quence whether it proves a girl or a boy. When a
child is born, the mother herself cuts the navel-string
with a stone spear-head, and swathes the infant's
body with the dried intestine of some animal. After
a few days, or according to the fancy of the p^.rents,
an annatko, who by relationship or long acquaint-
ance is a friend of the family, makes use of some
vessel, and with the urine the mother washes the in-
fant, while all the gossips around pour forth their
good wishes for the little one to prove an active
man, if a boy, or, if a girl, the mother of plenty of
children. This ceremony I believe is never omitted,,
and is called kok-shtoo-wa-rt-wa.

The dead are in most cases carried through the
window, in preference to the door of a snow hut,
which, after the three days of mourning have ex-
pired, is forsaken, at least by the family of which the
deceased had formed a part. The body is always
decently dressed in its best clothes ; and those who
perform this office put on their gloves, and stop
their nostrils with skin or hair. A man or two then
drag the corpse along the ground to the place where
it is to be buried, where it is then laid on its back. A
sledge is never used on these occasions, and all the
dogs are tied up ; but they may afterwards go and
dis-inter the body, and devour it uninterruptedly, it
being only slightly covered over with snow in winter,
and in summer but Little better sheltered by a few

SUPERSTITIONS.

371

stones. It is customary to place weapons at the
grave of a man ; cooking-pots, beads, knives, &c.
are in the same manner laid near that of a woman,
and are never removed. It is extraordinary, that
with this apparent attention, the Eskimaux are quite
regardless of the body when it has once been covered j
and the nearest relations will not cover it again, even
if they see that the dogs have dug up and are devour-
ing it : this we have known to be actually the case.

It was long before I learnt that there was a rule
for laying the bodies of the dead, according to their
age. Infants have their feet placed towards the
rising sun, or east ; half-grown children, south-east ;
men and women in their prime, with their feet to
the meridian sun ; middle aged persons, to the south-
west ; and very old people, the reverse of children,
or west.

The survivors visit the graves, at least some few
have been observed to do so, and talk with the de-
ceased, who they suppose listens attentively to all that
is said. The usual way is to walk round the grave
in the direction of the sun, and to chant forth in-
quiries as to the welfare of the departed soul ; whe-
ther it has reached Aad-lee, or the land of spirits? if
it has plenty of food? &c. &c. ; at each question
stopping at the head of the grave, and repeating
MJln-nuk-16-roo, Te6-wug-15o-maan (slowly spoken)
— Ay-putt-pa-ghit ? Ay-putt-pa-ghit? (very rapidly
spoken).

No kind of religious worship exists amongst these

y B '>

372

SUPKRSTITIONS.

|*7lW''<

poor people ; and the only thinfjf approach in j:r to it
was what I observed once or twice when the natives
slept in any nnmber in my cabin, and freqnently
when I passed the night in their huts ; this was,
that one of the senior men no sooner awoke in the
morning, than he commenced a low monotonous
song while he yet lay in bed, and I never heard
a woman or young person do this, or join in the
chant.

No traces of any kind of idolatrous worship are to
be met with, as might have been expected from the
accounts of our early navigators : the little figures of
ivory, wood, &c. which we found with our Eskimaux,
and which agree with the accounts given of the " littel
images " found by old Davis and others, being only
toys or ornaments, cut for the amusement of the
children.

With all their varying and fanciful customs and
charms, the Eskimaux have a straight-forward account
of a future state, in which all believe, and respecting
which none vary. There are two places appointed
to receive the souls of the good : one of these is in
the centre of the earth, the other in kfiyl-yak or
heaven. To the latter place, such as are drowned
at sea, starved to death, murdered, or killed by wal-
ruses or bears, are instantly wafted, and dwell in a
charming country, which, however, has never been
seen by any annatko. In this higher world are nu-
merous torngas, of whom the conjurors have not
much knowledge ; two are superior to the rest j

SUPKIISTITIONS.

373

to it
lativcs
iiently
8 was,
in the
tonous

heard
in the

are to
>m the
ures of
iniaiix,
" littel
ig only
of the

ftis and
econnt
)ecting
)ointed
e is in
yak or
•owned
3y wal-
II in a
r been
lire nu-
ve not
! rest J

tlic first is named Khtoo-woo-khtak, and is a great
and powerful spirit. — The next tornga in power is
named Tat-kuk, which is also an appellation of the
moon, and is well known to the Eskimaux of both
sexes ; he has a great many dogs, and an immense
sledge, on which he goes and hunts bears, walruses,
deer, &c. in the same manner as the mortals below.
He seems to be a good familiar kind of spirit, or
" Robin Goodfellow,'* in his way; for he frequently
comes to the huts unasked, and talks with the na-
tives, when it is dark : should they wish to get rid
of him, they blow hito their hands, and off he flies. I
believe that this tornga is often blamed for irregu-
larities in which he has no manner of concern ; and
that, from a kind of half confession of my informant,
the women frequently lay the blame on liim when
they are detected in any improprieties.

The place of souls in the world below is called
Aad-lee generally ; but there are, properly, four
distinct states of blessedness, and each rank has a
world to itself, the lowest land being the last and
best, which all hope to reach. The day on which a
good person dies and is buried, the soul goes to a
land immediately under the visible world ; and, still
descending, it arrives the second day at one yet
lower J the third day it goes farther yet ; and on the
fourth it finds,

"Below the lowest deep, a deeper still."

This is the " good land ;" and the soul which reaches
it is for ever happy. The three first stages are bad

374

SUPJ'.USTITIONS.

• *"

■i' '-f

■li

uncomfortable places ; for in each the sky is so close
to the earth, that a man cannot walk erect: yet
these regions are inhabited ; and the good soul, in
passing through them, sees multitudes of the dead,
who, having lost their way, or who, not being entitled
to the " good land,** are always wandering about and
in great distress. Whether these unhappy souls are in
purgatory or not, I was unable to learn ; but they suffer
no other pain than what we should call the " fidgets.**
In the lowest Aadlee a perpetual and delightful
summer prevails; the sun never sets, but performs
one unceasing round ; ice and snow are unknown ; the
land is covered with perpetual verdure, fine sorrel grows
every where, and the dwarf willow is found in abund-
ance for firing j the large lakes of fresh water abound
with fish, and the tents of the " souls ** are pitched
along their banks ; the sea is always clear, and whales
roll about in so tame a state, that the male souls
have only to go out in their kayaks, harpoon the one
they want, and tow it to the shore ; deer and birds
range within bow-shot of the tents, and are killed as re-
quisite ; thus universal and eternal feasting and jollity
prevail, and the whole time of the souls is occu-
pied in the favourite amusements of eating, sing-
ing, dancing, and sleeping.

As far as I could learn, the reason for placing
weapons and useful utensils near graves is that their
souls may be used by their former owners in the
other world.

373

CHAriKR X.

New yc,ir'8 day — Anecdotca of bears — The sun returns — Drift
wwmI — A sick woman and <;L. d — Tliey die— Visit t«» the grave
— Man eaten hy dogs — Kagha — Her death — A theft — Visit
distant huts — S|)ecimcns of eating — Scurvy — Death of Mr.
Elder — Arrangements for Fury to remain another year —
Toolcmak drunk — Appearance of vegetation — Strangers arrive
— Vanity of a woman — Togorlat's death — Toolemak takes leave.

A. D. 1823. — New Year's Day was, as might have
been expected, welcomed by us all, even with the
certainty that many tedious months must yet pass
away before the slightest change could be perceptible
on the snow-covered land.

My friend Ooyarra slept in my cabin, and as he
never paid me a visit without giving some interesting
information, I was on this occasion also treated with
some curious stories. Amongst others, he related
several anecdotes of the sagacity of bears, of which ani-
mals he had himself, though a very young man, killed
five, and three out of that number unassisted by other
£skimaux. On one occasion he saw a bear swim
cautiously to a large rough piece of ice, on which
two female walruses were lying asleep with their
cubs. The wily animal crept up some hummocks
behind this party, and with his fore feet loosened a
large block of ice ; this, with the help of his nose and
paws, he rolled and carried until immediately over
the heads of the sleepers, when he let it fall on one
of the old animals, which was instantly killed. The

37G

BKAHS.

Other walrus with its cub rolled into tlie water, but
the young one of the stricken female renuiined Ly
its dam ; on this helpless creature the bear now
leaped down, and thus completed the destruction of
two animals, which it would not have ventured to
attack openly. This account seemed so very won-
derful, that few who heard it hesitated to declare it
false ; but for Ooyarra's credit I afterwards met with
a little book written by a Mr. Laing, surgeon of a
whaler, in which was a quotation from the " Fauna
Grsenlandica" of Fabricius, which gives a correspond-
ing account, that " in the combats between bears and
walruses, the former frequently obtain the victory,
by taking large masses of ice and dashing them against
the heads of their opponents."

The stratagems practised in taking the ooghiook,
or large seal, are not much less to be admired. These
creatures ai^e remarkably timid, and for that reason
always lie to bask or sleep on the very edge of the
pieces of floating ice, so that on the slightest alarm
they can, by one roll, tumble themselves into their
favourite element. They are extremely restless, con-
stantly moving their head from side to side, and
sleeping by very short naps. As with all wild crea-
tures, they turn their attention to the direction of
the wind, as if expecting danger from that quarter.
The bear, on seeing his intended prey, gets quietly
into the water, and swims until to leeward of him,
from whence, by frequent short dives, he silently
makes his approaches, and so arranges his distance,
that at the last dive he comes up to the spot where

BEAKS

f>7(

the seal is lying. If the poor animal attempts to
escape by rolling into the water, he falls into the
bear's clutches ; if, on the contrary, he lies still, his
destroyer makes a powerful spring, kills him on the
ice, and devours him at leisure.

From Ooyarrakhioo, a most intelligent man, I ob-
tained an account of the bear, which is too interesting
to be passed over.

" At the commencement of winter the pregnant
she-bears are very fat, and always solitary. When a
heavy fall of snow sets in, the animal seeks some hollow
place in which she can lie down, and then remains
quiet while the snow covers her. Sometimes she will
wait until a quantity of snow has fallen, and then digs
herself a cave ; at all events, it seems necessary that
she should be covered by, and lie amongst snow. She
now goes to sleep, and does not wake until the spring
sun is pretty high, when she brings forth her two
cubs. The cave by this time has become much larger,
by the effect of the animal's warmth and breath, so
that the cubs have room enough to move, and they
acquire considerable strength by continually sucking.
The dam at length becomes so thin and weak, that it is
with great difficulty she extricates herself when the
sun is powerful enough to throw a strong glare
through the snow which roofs the den. The Eskimaux
affirm, that during this long confinement the bear
has no evacuations, and is herself the means of pre-
venting them by stopping all the natural passages with
moss, grass, or earth. The natives find and kill the
bears during their confinement by means of dogs,

a78

THE SUN llETUUNS.

.i/V'/

which scent them through the snow, and begin
scratching and howling very eagerly. As it would
be unsafe to make a large opening, a long trench is
cut, of sufficient width to enable a man to look down
and see where the bear's head lies, and he then selects
a mortal part into which he thrusts his spear. The
old one being killed, the hole is broken open, and
the young cubs may be taken out by hand, as, having
tasted no blood, and never having been at liberty,
they are then very harmless and quiet. Females,
which al^ not pregnant, roam throughout the whole
winter in the same manner as the males. The coupling
time is in May.

Toonoonegh is one of the most famous places for
obtaining bears in the above-mentioned manner.

During the last week about fifty persons removed
to the north-east ice, in order to be nearer the sealing
place, and other families were also preparing to depart.
Above twenty hungry wretches came to the ships
for food, although a heavy gale and thick drift was
blowing in their faces.

On the 11th, one of the officers reported having
seen the sun from the western point of Igloolik. We,
however, saw nothing of it at the ships, though forty
days had now elapsed since it left us.

For some days past the weather had undergone a
most extraordinary change, the temperature being
generally above zero, and sometimes even as high
as 18**. and 24°. The air was thick, but at the
same time highly favourable to the bunting affairs
of the Eskimaux, who killed siveral walruses and

bJlIFT WOOD.

379

seals. The great abundance of food which now suc-
ceeded a long scarcity led us to dread that some fatal
disorders, incident to over-eating, might be brought
on amongst the natives, several of them being found
on the first day to have crammed to such a degree
as to be in great pain, and rolling themselves about
to procure relief.

On the 19th the wind shifted, the thermometer fell
below zero, and the sky became beautifully clear, so
that the sun rose with great splendour at about half-
past ten. We were all at church at the time, on board
the Fury ; but the service was no sooner over than
we hastened up to enjoy a view of the returning light.
We had not seen the sun at the time it should pro-
perly have appeared, the forty-second day from its
setting, in consequence of the thick weather, so that
forty-nine days had now elapsed since it had last
shone on us. The poor Eskimaux were no less de-
lighted than ourselves at its appearance, and on this
morning all faces were as gay and cheerful as the
bright scene around.

On the 21st, I drove to the village to see the poor
wretches who still continued ill, and found the huts
the picture of ruin and misery, above a hundred people
having removed to the sea ice. While going about the
huts we found in one of them a kind of beam of drift-
wood, which was the first we had seen. It was of fir,
rather decayed, about two feet in circumference, and
five in length. The natives said it had been washed
on shore at Nerlt-nak-to, an island adjoining Igloo-
lik to the westward, a summer or two before.

380

SICK WOMAN.

Mr. M'Laren accompanied me on the ^2Qnd to
s(^ the sick, and we carried to Takka-likkt-tcVs wife
and child, the former of whom was in a very dan-
gerous state, some arrow root and a blanket, which
afforded them great comfort : their only covering
had been a damp old deer-skin, beneath which they
lay cold and naked. In hopes of saving their lives
I took them on board, and having screened off a
portion of my cabin, gave them the quiet possession
of it.

On the morning of the 24th the woman appeared
considerably improved, and she both spoke and ate a
little, but in the course of the day she expired. I
determined on burying her at Arn-ko-a-khiak, a
point of Igloolik, and the husband was much pleased
at my promising that the body should be drawn on a
sledge by men, instead of dogs ; for to our infinite
horror, Takkalikkita had told us that dogs had eaten
part of Kaimookhiak, and that when he left the huts
with his wife one was devouring the body as he passed
it. Takkalikkita now prepared to dress the corpse,
and in the first place stopped his nose with deer's
hair, and put on his gloves, seeming unwilling that
his naked hand should come in contact with it.
I observed in this occupation his care that every
article of dress should be as carefully placed as when
his wife was living, and having by mistake drawn the
boots on the wrong legs, he pulled them off again, and
arranged them properly. This ceremony finished,
the deceased was sewed up in a hammock, and at the
husband's urgent request her face was left uncovered.

SIIK DIKS.

381

An officer, who was present at the time, agreed witli
me in fancying that Takkalikkita, from his words and
actions, intimated a wish that the living chikl might
be enclosed with its mother. We might perhaps have
been mistaken, but there is an equal probability that we
were right in our conjecture ; for according to Crantz
and Egede, the Greenlanders are, or were, in the
habit of burying their motherless infants, from a per-
suasion that they must otherwise starve to death, and
also from being unable to bear the cries of the little
ones while lingering for several days without sus-
tenance.

My dogs being carefully tied up, a party of our
people, myself accompanying them, drew the body
to the shore, where we made a grave about a foot
deep, being unable to get lower, in consequence of
the frozen earth. It was placed on its back, at
the husband's desire, and he then stepped into the
grave and cut all the stitches of the hammock,
though without throwing it open, seeming to imply-
that the dead should be left unconfined. I laid an
ooloo by the woman's side, and we filled up the
grave, piling over it a quantity of heavy stones which
no animal could remove. When all was done, and
we were on our return to the ship, the man lingered
a few moments behind us, and repeated two or three
sentences, as if addressing himself to his departed
wife : he then silently followed us. We found Sheega
quite composed, and attending her little sister, be-
tween whose eyebrows she had made a spot with

382

A CHILD DIES.

■^^i

»ii';

soot, in token that, being unweaned, it must cer-
tainly die. I did all in my power to persuade the
father that it might still live, if carefully attended
and regularly fed with soup ; but he paid very little
attention to me, and ultimately left the child to my
discretion, saying, that since I had now adopted it
as my daughter, I might take it to my country, or
do as I pleased with it, for it was no longer his,
whether it lived or died.

After my party had retired to sleep, I heard, oc-
casionally, loud sighing, and on lifting the curtains
saw Takkilikkita standing and looking mournfully at
his sick child. I endeavoured to compose him, and
he promised to go to bed ; but hearing him again
sighing, in a few minutes I went and found that the
poor infant had expired, and that its father had been
some time aware of it. He now told me, that it had
seen its mother the last time it called on her, and
that she had beckoned it to Shll-la (heaven), on which
it instantly died. He said it was good that the child
was gone j that no children outlived their mothers ;
and that the black spot, which Sheega had re-
newed, was quite sufficient to ensure the death of
the infant.

My visitors made a hearty breakfast on the 26th,
and I observed that they did not scruple to lay the
vessels which contained their meat on the dead child,
which I had wrapped in a blanket ; this unnatural
table excited neither disgust, or any other feeling
amongst them, more than a block of wood could have

VISIT TO THE WOMAN'S GRAVE.

383

done. We now tied up all the dogs, as Takkalikkita
desired, and took the child about a quarter of a mile
astern of the ship, where we buried it in the snow.

The 28th was the third day after the woman's de-
cease, but a heavy northerly gale and thick drift pre-
vented our visiting the grave, which seemed greatly
to distress the widower ; and he frequently repeated
with impatience that this was the proper day to go
out and speak to his wife.

The 29th, though not fine, was more moderate,
and I accompanied Takkalikkita at an early hour. Ar-
riving at the grave, he anxiously walked up to it, and
carefully sought for foot-tracks on the snow ; but
finding none, repeated to himself, " No wolves, no
dogs, no foxes ; thank ye, thank ye."

He now began a conversation, directed entirely
to the grave, as if addressing his wife. Twice he
called her by name, and twice told her how the
wind was blowing, looking at the same time in the
direction from whence the drift was coming. He
next broke forth into a low monotonous chant, and
keeping his eyes fixed on the grave, walked slowly
round it in the direction of the sun, four or five
times, pausing at each circuit for a few moments
at the head, his song continuing uninterrupted. At
the expiration of about eight minutes he stopped,
and turning suddenly round to me, exclaimed,
" Tak-ba," (that's enough), and began walking back
to the ship.

I now sent Sheega and her father home, well

384

MAN EATEN BY THE DOGS.

clothed, and in good case. They had been lon^
enough with me to make them wish to coniinue en-
tirely, not at all liking to exchange a warm cabin for
a wretched snow hut. The week they had passiul
on board was sufficient time to have gained them the
esteem of every one, for they were the most quiet
inoffensive beings I had ever met with ; and to their
infinite credit, never once begged any thing.

From several people who walked down, we heard,
with great regret, of the death of an uncommonly
fine young man, named Noo-gl8o, an adopted son
to old Toolemak.

On the 31st I went to Igloolik, where I found
most of the invalids fast recovering. As Pekooya's
grave was near, and there were several reports of
the dogs having eaten him, I went to be convinced
of the truth of these stories, which were told with
such unconcern by his countrymen. I found a few
loose slabs of snow lying over the upper part of the
body, but the legs, up to the hips, were picked quite
clean, the bowels were taken out, and one foot had
been torn off; yet not one of the natives, amongst
whom were an old father and a half-grown brother
of the deceased, would take the trouble to cover the
body again, and even laughed when spoken to about it.
Near the grave, if such a term might be applied to so
insecure and rude a covering for the dead, a spear
and line, with a harpoon head, a tin pot, some beads,
and other trifles, were placed. Kaimookhiak's grave
was near the man's, but since the first attack of the

- Hw m j

KAC.IIA.

385

inue CM-
.'abin for
1 passLul
hem tlie
)st quiet
to their

e heard,
mmonly
)ted son

I found
Bkooya*s
ports of
«ivinced
)ld witli
id a few
't of the
ed quite
bot had
imongst
brother
)ver the
ibout it.
ed to so
a spear
J beads,
*s grave
[ of the

dogs, she had been carefully covered with snow.
Both bodies, however, were lying on the side of a
shingle ridge, at about two hundred yards from the
huts J and the snow was so shallow, that one day's
strong thaw would leave them lying bare on the
ground*.

On the 4th I drove out to see Ka-gha, the widow
of Pekooya, who, by all accounts, was in a most
wretched state. I found her in a snow hut which
was indescribably filthy, the roof broken, so that the
piercing wind rushed in, and with no furniture except
an apology for a skin^ on which the miserable woman
was lying. She appeared forsaken and left by her
countrymen to die, and I have every reason to believe,
from the ragged and nasty state of her only dress,
that she must have been robbed as soon as her hus-
band died, in the same inhuman manner as the
Greenland widows are, according to Crantz. I shall
never forget the piteous state and squalid looks of
this deserted woman; but I cannot describe my
astonishment, when, on producing blankets and
skins to wrap her in, for the purpose of carrying
her on board to be recovered, she turned to me and
demanded what I would pay her for her trouble!!
Yet this woman must have been actually frozen to
death, had one more than usually cold night set in,
and at all events, a few days would have put an end
to her miseries. Such is the covetousness naturally

* This was afterwards the case, and the bodies were nearly
picked clean of the flesh as soon as discovered by the dogs.

C C

•".-SU

;38(>

KACniA.

so observable in the Eskimaux, and which wc had
increased by our indiscriminate presents to them. I
however determined on taking the wretched creature
on board, whether she consented or not, and I took,
as her companion, Alow-khioo, a boy of about thirteen,
brother to her late husband, and who also was very
unwell. Both my patients were lodged in one cor-
ner of my cabin, and stripped of their clothes, which
were exchanged for warm bedding.

5th, My patients having been settled by a night's
rest and a good washing, I learnt from the medical
men, that the woman's only complaint was excessive
debility from long neglect and want of clothing.
The boy suffered from pains in his joints and loins,
brought on probably by the same means.

I however found that Kagha laboured under an
infirmity which was incurable, that of a most sulky
unhappy disposition, but whether from her natural
temper, or in consequence of her peculiarly unhappy
situation, I am uncertain. At all events she would
do nothing she was told, was dissatisfied with every
attention paid her, and whenever she volunteered
to speak, it was for the pui'pose of complaining that
I had not treated her like the other sick persons,
having given her neither shirts, knives, nor beads.
The boy made a grand struggle for preserved meat
instead of walrus, and as he saw the woman receive
it, he was stanch until subdued by hunger. Both
refused any other kind of European food, although
they had been brought from a state of starvation into

KAGHA.

387

wc had
lem. I
Feature
I took,
lirtecn,
as very
lie cor-
which

night's
nedical
cessive
)thing.
I loins,

der an
; sulky
latural
ihappy
would

every
teered
g that
jrsons,
beads.

meat
eceive

Both
lough
1 into

a region of plenty \ and I even detected the lady in
throwing bread, jelly, and biscuit away, after having
pretended she had eaten them.

The 5th was fine, and snow was observed to thaw
on some black paint, under the rays of the meridian
sun. Captain Parry went out and buried Pekooya,
whose aged parents appeared thankful for this mark
of attention, or rather perhaps for a warm jacket
which each received.

On the 6th a very convenient hospital was finished
alongside the Fury, and Captain Parry received into
it Innookkhioo, who was dangerously ill with an in-
flammation of the bowels, and his family. During
the forenoon we witnessed, although in a more faint
degree, the same kind of extraordinary arch in the
heavens, as that which had appeared in the spring
at Winter Island. The legs in this instance were
planted east and west.

It would be uninteresting to give a diurnal account
of Kagha, of whom it is sufficient to say, that after
the first day of her arrival on board, she was quite
free from pain, could sit up, and was cleaned ; but
she behaved so ill that I had not a moment's peace :
she paid so little attention to decency, that my cabin
was disgusting to all who entered it ; and as I had
to sleep and take my meals there, my situation may
be easily conceived. She talked with so much un-
concern of the dogs eating her husband, as quite
to do away with my first opinion, that her extraor-
dinary humour was caused by excessive grief.

cc2

388

KA(iIIA.

On tlic 10th, Mr. M*Laren, wliosc patience had
been as much tried as mine, assured me that Kagha
was, and liad been all along, free from any complaint
but weakness and ill-humour ; and my cabin having
become a nuisance to the ship, I determined on
sending her home, or more properly, to the house of
a man wlio promised to receive her as the sister of
his wife, but, most probably, in hopes of a present
from me. I clothed her in two new warm suits, and
also gave her a blanket and a wolf skin coverlet ;
but she objected to her outer coat, because it was of
warm and thick woollen instead of deer skin, and
complained that I gave her but one blanket. The
grand cause of discontent was still that I had given
her no beads, and before she left my cabin she stole
a knife, which I afterwards found on her ; thus, be-
having from the first with the most admirable con-
sistency, and never for one moment allowing any one
to hold a more favourable opinion of her than was
formed at my interview in her hut.

Ooyarra came to see me after a very long absence,
and the savage expressed not the least concern about
the fate of his wife, whom he had so unfeelingly left
to die. From him I learnt that the distant Eski-
maux had been very successful in the capture of
seals, most of which were with young, and I pro-
cured some of the foetuses on account of their beau-
tiful skins. Three bears had been recently killed,
and the heads of two, which I obtained, were of a
terrific size ; the third was a young one.

SNOW TIIAWKI).

SH9

ICC liad
Kngha
mplaint
having
nccl on
oiise of
lister of
present
its, and
verlet ;
was of
n, and
The
I given
ic stole
Lus, be-
le con-
my one
an was

bsence,
1 about
y\y left
k Eski-
;ure of
I pro-
r beau-
killed,
re of a

Captain Parry was on this day obliged to banish
two of his patients, for his number had been in-
creased, on account of their discontent and ill con-
duct. Their chief ground of complaint was in
being limited to 5 lb. of walrus flesh per diem. The
wife of one of these people exhibited a fine example
of feeling while her husband was confined to his bed
by a severe wound in the leg *, she came twice to the
ships, and did not once ask after him.

On the iGth the weather, which had for some
days been exceedingly mild, took a sudden change,
and in an hour or two the thermometer fell to 35°
and 40°.

As a convincing proof of the flourishing state of
the natives, a seal was sold to me for a knife.

I observed, even while the temperature in the
shade was 35° below zero, that fine powder of snow
melted under the influence of the sun, when sprinkled
on a stick covered with soot ; thus making a differ-
ence of temperature, existing at the same time, as
great as 67° and upwards.

On the 21st Captain Parry was induced, from the
state in which he had found Kagha on the preceding
day, to send for her to the hospital. It appeared that
she was closed up, and alone in a small snow hut :
a single wick of her lamp was burning, and her long
hair was frozen to her bed-place in a quantity of
blood which she had been spitting. On extricating
the poor wretch from the hut, she was found in a
state of filthiness and misery not to be described;

390

KAGHA'S DEATH.

and on her arrival at the hospital, it was found re-
quisite to shave her head, her hair being covered
with vermin literally an inch deep. After being
made as comfortable as her exhausted state would
permit, she passed a restless night ; yet was sensible,
and took a little nourishment.

On the 22d she died. On dissection, the medical
men found no signs of any internal complaint ; her
lungs were healthy, but from the state of her sto-
mach, not a doubt was entertained of her having ac-
tually died of starvation. A most extraordinary and
inexplicable decay had been going forward in her
mouth, for the lower jaw was quite destroyed, black,
and carious, and not a single tooth remained in it.
When she left me, her gums were healthy and her
teeth white, and even handsome, yet this wonderful
change had taken place in ten days. There were
no symptom^; of scurvy, and the face outwardly was
uninjured. She had left me pretty well in flesh, and
able to walk, but was now the most complete skele^.
ton I ever saw. The circumstances attending her
fate were really shocking to humanity, and were not
known until it was too late to remedy them. From
the state in which Captain Parry found her, it was evi-
dent, that had food been supplied her, she could not
have cooked it, or even helped herself; and not one
of her tribe even went near her. Her nominal sister
lived within a few feet of her ; the father, mother, and
young brother of her deceased husband, were also
at hand ; yet not a soul of these ever went into her

A THEFT.

391

}und re-
covered
;r being
;e would
sensible,

medical
int; her

her sto-
iving ac-
aary and
i in her
d, black,
ed in it.

and her
onderful
ere were
irdly was
lesh, and
te skele-^.
ding her
were not
. From
t was evi-
;ould not
I not one
nal sister
ther, and
;vere also

into her

hut, but left her as a condemned being, to be starved
to death in the midst of plenty. The same, no
doubt, would have been the case with any other un-
protected widow.

Kagha's dead body lay two days unburied, in
order to give her friends an opportunity of asking
about her ; but not a friend was found, not one man,
woman, or child inquired after her, and I firmly be-
lieve none even knew where she was buried. Nesh-ya,
the woman who at first had acknowledged herself
sister to the deceased, now denied it, and treated the
whole story as a very good joke, and the Kabloonas
as a set of fools.

On the 25th a man stole a knife, or, properly
speaking, confessed having stolen one on the pre-
ceding day, and I accordingly consigned him to our
coal-hole, where I kept him in durance for some
hours. His countrymen who were on board seemed
to care little about this, and even laughed when I
said I purposed killing him. When they went away,
some of our officers, who did not know what had
happened, met them on the ice, and were told, un-
concernedly, " that Khiap-ka had stolen a knife, and
that Lyon had put him into a black place and cut
his throat." I verily think that had I actually done
so, no one, except his old mother, would have been
afflicted. On the following day my offender brought
the knife from the huts, and came, attended by an-
other man who walked before him up the ladder,
carrying the weapon in his hand. His procuring an
assistant was, as I soon found, for the purpose of ob-

39^

WOLVES.

•1 <

I is

sr' ■■'Tf?:

taining presents, the thief observing that I ought to
give him something for returning the knife, and his
companion declaring that he also had a claim on my
generosity " for having carried the stolen goods.**

On the 28th, the two wolves, which now so rarely
visited us, came very near the ship, and all my dogs
gave them chase : the old and wise were easily re-
called, but a couple of spirited young animals con-
tinued the pursuit until we could no longer see them.
In about two hours, however, both returned unhurt.
This circumstance I have mentioned as tending to
destroy our opinions, founded on former observa-
tions, and above all, on the accounts of the Eski-
maux, that their dogs, although fearless when op-
posed to a bear, will not venture in any number to
attack a single wolf. My favourites, on returning,
were in the highest spirits, and apparent anxiety
for another runj indeed we had some difficulty in
preventing their going off again in the wolf tracks.

8th, Our weather for some days past had been
beautiful, but like many lovely objects in a better
country, was very frigid towards us sea-faring people.
The Eskimaux were now in such good condition,
that there was little probability of their being in any
serious distress for food, until the next season of
darkness.

On the 13th I obtained what even the unobserv-
ing natives considered a curiosity, a young walrus
head having three tusks instead of the usual number,
two. On the left side were two nearly of an equal
length, one being one inch and a half, and the other

•» t

VISIT DISTANT HUTS.

393

ught to
and his
on my
3ds.**
rarely
ly dogs
Lsily re-
ds con-
e them,
unhurt,
ding to
)bserva-
e Eski-
len op-
nber to
urning,
anxiety
5ulty in
racks. -
id been
i better
people,
ndition,
<; in any
ason of

lobserv-
walrus
umber,
n equal
e other

two inches and a half in length ; that on the oppo-
site side was two inches long. The size of these
tusks quite did away with the idea of one of them
being a milk tooth, although on the double side
there was still but one socket for both.

On the 22d a very perceptible thaw began to dis-
play itself daily, in melting such light coats of snow
as lay on dark parts of the ship, and exposed to the
full glare of the noon-day sun. We now also ob-
served that the small kind of sea-lice, which had been
so abundant during the whole winter in the fire-hole
alongside the Fury, were equally numerous at the
Hecla's; while, by some extraordinary arrangement,
they entirely forsook their former quarters. We ac-
counted for our not having had them before, by the
Fui7*s lying in five fathoms water, while we were in
eighteen. It may be remembered, that at Winter
Island, these little creatures were constantly with us,
and did us much damage by eating our meat, when
we put it down to soak.

We had heard so much of the prosperity of the
people at the distant huts on the ice to the north-
ward, that I determined on paying them a visit, and
I drove out, accompanied by G. Dunn, my grand
assistant on these occasions, and a young Eskimaux,
to show us the road. We found the settlers, after a
very bleak drive, at about twenty miles to the N. of
Igloolik huts, and established on the sea ice, from
which their six little snow huts could not be distin-
guished at above the distance of half a mile. The
party consisted of twenty-eight persons. Here, as

394

VISIT AND RECEPTION

at our village on the island, plenty brought its evils.
One young man was recovering from a very severe
fit of illness, and his brother had recently fallen sick.
I thought I could not do better for the poor fellow
than to bleed him, and accordingly, with my knife, I
took from him about twenty-four ounces of blood,
for which piece of doctoring I received abundant
thanks, with half an offer of some liver, as a fee.
My patient, however, soon lost his good opinion,
and I believe looked on me as little better than his
murderer, when I strictly charged his mother to give
him no meat, raw or boiled, for two whole days, but
to allow him as much soup as he could swallow.

We were cordially invited into the smallest, most
miserable, and worst provided of the huts, by a couple,
whose character at the ships was eminent on the list
of beggars, but we found them every thing we could
wish. The family consisted of the man, his wife,
and three children, two of whom were half-grown ;
yet this party were living on a seat, whose breadth
was six feet, and its depth five. To this space I was
admitted, and Dunn had exclusive possession of the
floor of the same extent, but certainly the cleanest
and best part of the dwelling. As this was the only
hut which was not lined with seal skins, the water
dropped on us from every part of the roof: but, to
make up for want of other comforts, our hosts paid us
the greatest and sincerest attention I ever received
from Eskimaux, and by their cheerfulness showed
how happy they were in having their hut preferred
to others. During the time we remained with them.

AT THE DISTANT HUTS.

395

its evils.
•y severe
len sick.
3r fellow
knife, I
if blood,
bundant
LS a fee.
opinion,
than his
r to give
[ays, but
ow.

>st, most
I couple,
I the list
ve could
lis wife,
-grown ;
breadth
ce I was
1 of the
cleanest
the only
le water
but, to
paid us
received
showed
referred
h them,

they never once be^ed, and would have crammed
us with food, had we been inclined to receive it.
A lamp was given up to me that I might cook
what I pleased, and after my own manner; and we
passed a most merry evening. My chief occupation
was nursing a dirty little baby, with no other clothes
on than the skin of a fox as a jacket, and I quite won
the heart of the mama, who was an annatkoka, by
singing, to her infant, " Bye baby bunting," and
other nursery songs. The first ditty gave great
satisfaction when I managed so to translate it, as to
describe the child's father going hunting for the in-
dividual fox, of whose skin its jacket was made.
. I never slept so warmly, or in so small and dirty
a space as on this night. A young seal was my
pillow, and the burning lamp was within six inches
of my nose.

On taking my departure, I gave my host an in-
vitation to return my visit as soon as he chose, and
we followed the same tract by which we had gone
out.

When we arrived on board, we found that two
sledges had arrived from Pingitkalik. Young Too-
looak, of eating celebrity, being one of the visitors.
Captain Parry gave him as much food as he could
devour, and on the following morning his account
stood as per margin*. The raw spirits and grog

* Solids, 10 lbs. 4 oz. Water, 1 gallon 1 pint. Soup, one
pint and a quarter. Raw spirits, three glasses and a half. Grog,
strong, one tumbler ! Tliis in twenty-one hours, eight of which
were passed in sleep.

396

SPECIMENS OF EATING.

'%t

■'i.i.li

Ite. .i.ai:':JL'i,

were given him within half an hour, on board the
Hecia, but had no more effect on him than the same
quantity of water would have had on an European.

Captain Parry considering the present a good
opportunity of going to see Pingitkalik, accompa-
nied the natives home. He returned on the 4th,
and gave a favourable account of his reception. The
establishment is about twenty miles to the southward
of Igloolik, and near it at about two miles, is the line
of open water in which the men kill the walruses. '

In the afternoon, Kan-ga-ra, in whose hut we
had been so well treated on the night of the 1st,
paid me a visit. I was well aware that after I had
given him some useful presents, abundant feeding
would be the most kindly received attention, and I
accordingly pitted him against young Toolooak. He
commenced at 1 p. m., and by 8 a. m. on the day
following, had expended as per margin*. Of the

* SOLIDS.

lb. oz.

Bread-dust and train oil .... 1 10

Walrus fleshy boiled 7 1

Seal and bread 10

Two candles 3

Bread and butter 1

Total 9 15

FLUIDS.

quarts.
Rich walrus soup 2

Water above 4

Total 6 quarts

SCURVY.

397

ard the
he same
opean.
a good
ccompa-
;he 4th,
1. The
uthward
the line
ruses,
hut we
the 1st,
sr I had
feeding
1, and I
ak. He
the day
Of the

ts.

nineteen hours during which my friend remained on
board, he slept eight, without once waking or turn-
ing. Toolooak drank about the same quantity of
fluids, but exceeded in solids by five ounces. It
must, however, be remembered, that he hr^d two
hours more time than my man, who would in the
same period have beaten him hollow. '^ ^

Winter wa? now decidedly giving way to spring.
The sun thawed a little snow every day, and some-
times even caused puddles of water on the dirt along-
side. Our officers and people had for some days
past amused themselves by playing at cricket and
foot-ball, and some very lively matches took place,
although as many tumbles were made as notches run.
In the course of the last two months, some of the
officers of each ship had been more or less attacked
by scurvy, but a timely administration of antiscor-
butics had now cured them all. It appears some-
what remarkable, that the officers alone should have
been thus affected ; but some reason may be assigned
for the excellent health of the men, who were daily
obliged to take regular exercise, who had no salt
provisions, and who were carefully examined twice a
day to see if they were sufficiently clothed. The
officers, on the other hand, only took exercise as in-
clination led them. Careless of exposing themselves,
they frequently left a warm cabin to go lightly clothed
on deck, and all their stock of extra provisions was
necessarily salt, such as butter, hams, tongues, &c.

An excellent allowance of fresh Donkins's meats

quarts

d98

MR. ELDER DIES.

■J.

was issued for all» with pickles, lemon-juice, spruce,
and other beer besides, so that fresh food formed
the chief messes. We also reared mustard and cress
until the 1st of April, which gave sometimes two or
three ounces to every man at one cutting. In some-
what above four months 1 78 lbs. were grown. In
boxes round my stove I procured 14< lbs. for my own
and my servant's consumption, and at the same time
derived amusement from attending to my little gar-
den. Perhaps it is needless to say that vegetables
thus grown in the dark 'are of a light yellow colour,
and throw out but two little leaves, after which they
run to stalk until three or four inches high, an**^
then fade away.

Early on the morning of the 10th I sent a couple
of men to dig up the little child we had buried in the
snow, in January, and it was sunk with proper weights
in our fire-hole, witliout any one being the wiser. I
deemed this requisite, lest the general thaw, which
was soon expected, should leave the poor little crea-
ture a prey to wolves and dogs.

On the I^th, Mr. Alexander Elder, Greenland
mate of the Hecla, departed this life, after a con-
finement of a few days. His complaint was a con-
firmed dropsy, which had considerably swelled his
whole body and limbs, and the poor man suffered
continued and severe pain, from the oppression in
his chest, which, on examination afler death, was
found to contain six pints of water. During both
winters he had been subject to disorders in the

HIS FUNERAL.

399

spruce,
formed
1(1 cress
two or
n some-
m. In
my own
me time
btle gar-
getables
r colour,
ich they
gh, anf^

a couple
id in the
• weights
dser. I
r, which
tie crea-

*eenland

a con-

s a con-

illed his

suffered

!Ssion in

ith, was

ng both

in the

breast and side, and for some time past had been
in a great measure under the eye of the surgeon.
The deceased had been leading man with Captain
Parry on Captain Ross's voyage, and for his good
conduct had been made mate of the Griper on the
last expedition. Now having overcome the second
winter of a third voyage, the poor fellow was fated
to breathe his last at Igloolik. He was a thorough
good steady seaman, and solely by his own merit had
risen to the station which he filled at the time of
his death.

During the l6th a party were employed digging
a grave, but after many hours' labour, and breaking
ten pickaxes, were unable, on account of the frozen
state of the earth, to penetrate deeper than three
feet.

On the forenoon of the 17th, the officers and
crews of both ships attended the remains of their
deceased comrade to the grave, and the Rev. Mr.
Fisher being confined by illness. Captain Pariy, as
senior officer and patron of the defunct, read the
funeral service. Two volleys were fired over the
grave, and we returned on board amidst clouds of
snow, which were flying under the influence of the
most severe northerly gale we had experienced
during the winter.

On the 20th, after church. Captain Parry made
known to the officers and men his future intentions
with regard to the expedition, which we had arranged

400

ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE FURY

If.**'

I-

during the winter months, on a plan proposed by
Captain Parry himself, and in which I fully agreed
with him. •

It was evident that, should the ships remain out
this coming summer, should they make any progress,
and pass a third winter, their provision would be so
nearly consumed, that but a small quantity would
remain for the passage home ; and if (as there was
a possibility) we should in returning be detained,
we must of necessity pass another winter without
sustenance. With these arguments before us, it was
resolved that, although both ships could not remain
out, yet one by receiving a year's provisions from
the other, might do so ; and accordingly Captain
Parry determined on completing the Fury from us,
and making another attempt in the summer, while
the Hecla, with sufficient provisions for the passage,
should make the best of her way home. Little or
no hopes could be entertained of any passage being
found to the westward, otherwise than by the strait
which we found so firmly closed with ice ; but it was
to be hoped that some interesting additions might
be made to the geography of these dreary regions, by
attempting a passage to the northward or eastward,
in hopes of finding an outlet to Lancaster Sound,
or Prince Regent's Inlet. Circumstances, however,
were to guide Captain Parry in his intended route,
and he nobly resolved that while the means were
afforded him he would presevere in his arduous
undertaking; and thus repel any future idea,

TO RKMAIN ANOTHKR YEAR.

posed by
y agreed

main out
progress,
uld be so
ty would
;here was
detained,
' without
us, it was
)t remain
ons from
r Captain
from us,
ler, while
i passage.
Little or
age being
the strait
but it was
)ns might
egions, by
eastward,
er Sound,
, however,
ded route,
eans were
s arduous
ture idea,

that while British ships and seamen were on the
spot they neglected the slightest opportunity of
adding to the knowledge already obtained of these
countries. •

Arrangements were accordingly made for sending
stores and provisions from the Hecla, and we began
our work on the morning of the 21st, trusting for
the carriage entirely to our two excellent teams of
dogs and sledges. As a specimen of what these useful
creatures can do, I took the trouble to time my dogs
when carrying a load of l6lllbs. There were nine
of them to draw this, and they reached the Fury,
distant 1750 yards, in as many minutes !

At dawn on the 22nd, two grouse . pitched on
our dirt heap, but were soon frightened away again.
This day I admitted daylight at the stern windows,
which showed my gloomy sooty cabin to no great ad-
vantage, and no less than ten buckets of ice were
taken from the sashes and out of the stern lockers,
from which latter my spare flannels and some instru-
ments were only liberated by chopping.

On St. George's day both the ships were dressed
in flags, and at 1 p. m. we fired a royal salute, in
honour of his majesty's birthday. Our guns were
arranged in a little battery alongside, as it would not
have been prudent to have fired them on board while
the ships were so firmly sealed up in the ice. A large
party of natives were invited down, as we were in
hopes that so novel a display might make some im-
pression on them, and by giving them something to

D D

402

INSKNSIBII.ITY.

talk of, be the means of keeping up a remembrance
of us at some future time. Three or four hty, yfivvs,
were however the sum total of their remarks, and
before the salute was fired, the whole party became
tired of it, although none of them had ever before
heard a great gun or seen a flag. I led an old
woman to the side of one of our 24-pounder-car-
ronades, and entered into conversation with her,
when I observed that at the explosion she did not
even wink her eyes, but very earnestly continued a
long story about a pair of boots for which some of
our people had not contented her. A second report
caused one of our snow washing-houses to fall in, on
which the good lady uttered her hey-yaw, as if it was
the most curious part of the ceremony. Toolemak
had been expected with his family; but did not
arrive, although he had threatened to bring his
gun, in hopes that he might find some of our pow-
der after it had been fired out of the guns ; for he
complained sadly, that in the event of birds flying
near, he had no ammunition to kill them.

We were all much distressed by hearing of the
death of poor Innook-khtoo, who having again fallen
ill after his removal from the Fury's hospital, died
on the 20th at Pingitkalik. This man, the elder
brother to Noogloo, whose death I mentioned in the
winter, was confessedly the chief and boldest hunter
of the tribe, supporting by his own exertions a nu-
merous family of relatives. ,.;,.

On the afternoon of this day we finished cutting a

iibrancc
y, yfivvs,

rks, and

became
ir before

an old
ider-car-
iith ber,

did not
itinued a
I some of
id report
all in, on
I if it was
Poolemak

did not
3ring bis
our pow-
for he
ids flying

ig of the
ain fallen
ital, died
the elder
ed in the
5st hunter
Dns a nu-

cutting a

TOOLKMAK.

U)\

trench round the ships, in order to admit of the car-
penter's caulking and smoothing her bottom, for a
few streaks, as her larboard side was rubbed as rougli
as the husk of a cocoa nut, by the squeezes she re-
ceived on her passage from Winter Island. It is a
singular thing to see about four or five feet of a ship's
bottom below the water line, and while standing in
the trench, to have the water in the fire-hole, from
which you are divided by a thin ice wall on a level
with your breast.

On the 2nd May, I was informed by Captain Parry
of a singular circumstance. A couple of his officers,
while walking to the huts against a strong sea breeze,
in a temperature of 12°., observed their faces to be
coated with white and very bitter salt, which shows
how strongly the atmosphere, even at this low tem-
perature, must be impregnated with saline particles.

The first general thaw took place on the 4th May,
the thermometer rising to 3°. above the freezing
point: two hundred and thirty-four days had now
passed since it had been so high in" the shade ! In the
evening Toolemak rolled very jovially into my cabin,
telling me, that having drank four glasses of " hot
water" at the Fury, he was come to do the same with
me. He was immediately accommodated, and together
with what he obtained fit'om the officers, as well as
myself, in about ten minutes gulped down five glasses
and a half more of raw rum, which he designated as
above. Nine glasses and a half of spirits were, how-
ever, too much for him, and in a short time he became

D D 2

404

A DRUNKEN CON.IUROK.

i! ■>!» r

most noisily drunk. Mr. Fife, who had been a little
unwell in his stomach, quite delighted the old fellow
by asking his assistiincc as a conjuror, and being shut
up in a darkened cabin, he made the ship echo with
his bellowings and exorcisms. All his familiar
spirits were summoned in a bunch, and I could not
but observe that the sage immortals were as drunk
as the potent Annatko, who constrained them to an-
swer for themselves. In fact, poor Toolemak was
so overcome, and at the same time so little aware of
it, that he made some curious mistakes, and betrayed
all the secrets of his art, which 1 had in vain tried to
learn from him in his sober moments. I found that
his diving or retiring voice was, as I had before sus-
pected, regulated entirely by speaking in his hands,
and gradually covering his face with his jacket, until
the tones were rendered indistinct and ultimately
smothered. He made but an indifferent dive, yet
when I spoke to him, as I sat by his side, he assured
me he was under the earth, and that not Toolemak,
but his favourite spirit Pamiooli, was now talking with
me. While the conjurations were going forward,
which lasted about half an hour, he frequently slapped
Mr. Fife's stomach, and the latter being a very fat
man, the hollow reverberation added not a little to
the oddness of the ceremonies, for at each beating
our Annatko, in an authoritative voice, commanded
the pain to leave him. ,

Our friend committed a thousand good-humoured
extravagancies on being led back to my cabin, where

A DUUNKKN CONJUROR.

405

;n a little
)ld fellow
eing shut
echo with
1 familiar
could not
as drunk
em to an-
emak was
li aware of
1 hetrayed
in tried to
found that
before sus-
his hands,
icket, until
ultimately
; dive, yet
he assured
Toolemak,
alking with
g forward,
itly slapped
r a very fat
t a little to
ich beating
commanded

1-humoured
abin, where

he was carefully laid on a couch of skins. His own
voice having entirely left him, he did nothing but
chant in the tones of Tornga, no doubt fancying
himself highly inspired. An occasional outcry for
something to cat was immediately succeeded by his
falling on whatever wood was at hand, and biting it
deeply with his short and strong teeth. One of the
officer's doors was quite disfigured by these starts of
frenzy. I never indeed saw a drunken man more good-
humoured, and he chanted out his terms of friendship
to all around him, while to myself he occasionally
turned with great gravity, saying that I was his son,
and as well as himself was a great Annatko. All
these exertions made him so thirsty, that the most
wonderful exhibition yet remained, which was, that
as fast as he could be supplied, he drank eleven
pints and one gill of water ! At each tumbler full,
and they amounted to seventeen, he proudly patted
his belly, exclaiming Annatko ooanga (I *m a con-
juror), which no one could now for a moment doubt.
When absolutely filled to the throat, and unable to
pour down any more, his countenance fell, and in a
desponding tone he two or three times beat his breast,
and acknowledged himself vanquished : " I *m no
(nonjuror, I can drink no more." Within ten minutes
after this hydraulic exhibition, we were surprised to
find the wizard become nearly sober, though not at
all less merry, and he walked to his sledge with but
little assistance, after a few tumbles in some deep
snow which had recently fallen, and from which he

40G

CATEllPILLAllS,

;a-

■fV

^^^'

could not easily extricate himself for laughing, even
when his whole face was buried beneath it. It is re-
markable that, although this man swallowed such a
quantity of raw spirits as would have killed an Euro-
pean, yet he was not enough intoxicated to fall asleep,
and one hour was sufficient to deprive him of the use of
his legs, and again to set him up on them. I sent out
to inquire after his health on the following morn-
ing, and he was found well and merry, without the
slightest headache or sickness.

The temperature was daily above the freezing
point for several hours, but the weather was thick
and gloomy ; a constant fall of small snow rendered
the roads very soft and bad, and our poor dogs had
much labour in drawing provisions, coals, &c. to
the Fury. We heard of several families having re-
moved southward from Pingitkalik to Ooglitt, a small
island, on their way to Amityook. One of our men,
who was cleaning a large sea-horse's head which he
had purchased, found a fragment of the tusk of an-
other deeply embedded in its nostril or blowhole.
It was three inches in length, and weighed an ounce
and a quarter. This was firmly jammed in, and ex-
tricated with difficulty, from which some idea may be
formed of the furious battles fought by these im-
mense animals.

Walking on shore on the 9th, I found a great
number of caterpillars crawling about on the snow,
and on such small spots of land as lay bare. Amongst
the few little tufts of herbage which were exposed, I

iiig, even
It is re-
el such a
an Euro-
ill asleep,
the use of
[ sent out
iig morn-
thout the

freezing
was thick

rendered

dogs had
s, &c. to
laving re-
,t, a small

our men,

which he
usk of an-

blowhole.

an ounce
1, and ex-
ea may be
these im-

d a great

the snow,

Amongst

jxposed, I

AND APPEARANCE OF PLANTS.

407

picked about a dozen young buds of the following
plants : cerastium alpinum, arenaria rubella, saxifraga
oppositifolia, andromeda tetragona, and salix her-
bacea. We had, in consequence of the fineness of
the day, begun on this morning to saw through the
trench round the ship, in order to liberate her, u'hen
at noon she suddenly freed herself, and took t*vo or
three heavy rolls, to the great alarm of some natives
who were sitting in my cabin. Our having sent so
much provision to the Fury, allowed us to rise two
feet five inches abaft, and nhie inches forward, so that
it may be imagined the sudden leap of so large a body
as a ship to the above bearings was like an electric
shock.

All our work connected with the supply of the
Fury was now over, and, with the exception of a
cable, every thing had been carried by Captain PaiTy*s
and my dogs. Even two anchors, of twenty-two cwt.
each, were drawn by these noble animals at a quick
trot. I walked to Igloolik this morning, and such
was the softness of the road, in consequence of two
days' fine weather, that I was nearly seven hours
going and returning. The snow huts at the bone-
village were all in ruins. A few short days, and these
dwellings were not to leave a vestige of their existence,
or any token that their site had been the home of
man ; that feasting, dancing, singing, sickness, pain,
death, and mourning had been seen and heard during a
whole gloomy winter under the shelter of their roofs.
Returning along some partially uncovered ledges of

408

STRATAGEM TO KILL A SEAL.

..'*•■

shingle, I caught several flies which the warmth o(
the morning's sun had just brought into life. The
poor little creatures were half torpid, and hopped
about on the snow like insects whose wings had been
burnt in a candle.

A large party came to take leave on the 11th from
Ooglitt. They slept on board, and infonned us of
their intention to wander down towards our last
winter quarters during the approaching summer.
Dunn, whom I had sent to purchase provisions at
Pingitkalik for my dogs, returned the samp evening
with seven cwt. My team had travelled above sixty
miles over soft snow, and had returned perfectly fresh !
Large Hocks of ducks were seen by Dunn at sea.

I discovered at this period that the women had a
great dread of caterpillars, for I could persuade none
of them to touch some which I had spinning in a box.
The bare pretence of having thrown one into the
jacket of a young girl almost alarmed her into fits.

The weather continued to be extremely severe.
Two seals were observed to have risen on to the ice
about half a mile astern, and an Eskimaux, properly
provided with weapons, was sent to surprise them as
they lay ; but after having crawled to a considerable
distance in deep snow, and nearly reached one, the
animals both went down. The method used by the man
was to creep onwards as fast as he could whenever
the seal reposed its head on the snow, and to remain
quiet the instant the animal looked round ; and such
was the power of imitation in the hunter, that we

STRANG EKS.

409

rmth of

;. The

hopped

lad been

1th from
led us of
our last
summer,
isions at

evening
ove sixty
tly fresh !
t sea.
en had a
ade none
in a box.
into the
ito fits.
y severe.
;o the ice

properly
i them as
isiderable

one, the
y the man
whenever
;o remain

and such

that we

observed him with onr glasses to scrape with his foot,
shake and turn his head, and indeed copy all the
motions of a seal in the most skilful manner ; it is
no wonder therefore that these animals, whose sight
in the air is very imperfect, should so often permit
their enemy to approach them under the semblance
of a companion and friend.

On the l6th, a party of five women came down to
cover an extremely neat kayak, which the carpenter
had made me from the best Eskimaux models : five
well-prepared seals* skins were sufficient for this pur-
pose; and her entire weight, when dry, was forty
pounds. We learnt that several bears had recently
been killed on the northern ice, some by means of
arrows, others by the usual way, with dogs and spear-
men.

Old Takkalikkita came on this day to visit his
wife's grave, and walked from Alugnuk alone. It
was remarkable that this man should not have discon-
tinued this practice, after so long a period had elapsed,
and after having taken two new wives, which he did
within a month after the loss of his first ; but from
all I could observe, there seemed to be some super-
stitious ideas relative to his own personal welfare,
rather than any great love of the departed, whicli in-
duced him to continue his visits.

Toolemak, who invariably acted as master of the
ceremonies on all great occasions, brought three new
people down with him this morning: they had ar-
rived a few days before from a place called Pi-lVg,

.■^i-

410

VANITY OF A BEAUTY.

i;/ *■■

,{'

many days journey to the northward. They were
clean neat people, in person as well as dress; and
one of the two women carried a child, which was as
well washed as most European infants. The whole
party were well clothed in fine deer-skins. My worthy
atata and his good lady had given the strangers full
instructions how and what to beg, which they began
putting in force as soon as I had given them all pre-
sents, and no more appeared to be forthcoming ; but
I turned all the party out in a moment, to the evi-
dent mortification of Toolemak, who, I found, had
been boasting he could make his Kabloona son give
them whatever they wanted.

On the 23d, Ang-ma-loo-t5o-Tng-a, widow of In-
nookkhioo, walked down to the ships all alone, a
distance of about fifteen miles. Having slept on
board the Fury, and eaten all she could get, she
came to pass the next twenty-four hours at the Hecla,
where she expected to meet some of her people, and
to be carried home by them. While waiting the arrival
of her countrymen she sat in my cabin, and I had
an opportunity of observing, that a pretty woman in
any part of the world is perfectly acquainted with
her charms. As I sat quietly drawing at my table,
and appeared to be taking no notice of her, she
walked about my cabin until she procured a good
station opposite my large glass, and there amused
herself by putting her features and hair into the
most becoming shapes, smiling and placing her head
in various pretty postures, looking at her teeth and

INTELLKIKNT COUPLK.

411,

►y were
$s; and
I was as
e whole
worthy
jers full
y began
all pre-
ng; but
the evi-
nd, had
son give

IV of In-
alone, a
slept on
get, she
e Hecla,
>ple, and
le arrival
id I had
roman in
ted with
ny table,
her, she
a good
amused
into the
her head
ceth and

rubbing them with a piece of paper. But her eyes,
which were really very handsome, occupied her chief
attention, and for half an hour she continued to
twinkle them in a most amazing manner ; at length,
unable to contain her admiration any longer, she
turned round to me, and exclaimed, that her " eyes
were very pretty and good.'*

Nine other Eskimaux came in the evening, and,
as usual, all the party slept in my cabin. Ooyarra-
khioo, and his wife TabW, remained with us by a
general invitation until the Q6th. The man had
some days before been entirely dressed in English
clothes, and being tall and well shaped, made a most
respectable figure in a long and fashionable coat,
tight grey pantaloons, and a round hat, of which he
was very proud. He received at different times five
or six white siiirts, and these he wore one over the
other, always keeping the cleanest outside, and the
collar as high as possible above his black neckcloth.
His wife had made him a kind of great coat of
green baize, in imitation of our English ones, and
ornamented it with white cuffs and collar. The poor
fellow therefore thought in good earnest that he was
a Kabloona, and entered into all our parties and
pursuits very creditably. Both himself and his wife
were naturally inclined to be cleanly and well be-
haved, and each possessed great information: from
the man we obtained clear well-told descriptions of
the occupations of the hunters; while the woman
gave very spirited and amusing accounts of the cus-
toms and superstitions of tlic tribe.

41^'

TWO CUllIOUS ANECDOTES.

.,•*■■'

J>'

There were two remarkable stories told me by
Tabbi, which I scarcely credited, but which Too-
Icmak instantly confirmed, when I questioned him
in company with Captain Parry.

" Two years ago, some people came from near
Ak-koo-lee, and brought a report, that during a very
grievous famine which had been experienced the pre-
ceding winter, one party of Eskimaux had attacked,
killed, and eaten another party: they subsisted on
the flesh in a frozen state, but never ate it cooked or
thawed.'*

" Murders are frequently committed at Too-noo-
negh and Okko, but never openly : the victim is
watched until he sleeps, and then stabbed in the
heart with a panna. His brothers or male relatives
take no immediate notice, but watch quietly for their
revenge, which it is difficult to satisfy, as the mur-
derer never sleeps at night when others rest, but
walks continually about, during which he is in no
danger : when the other people are awake, he lies
down to sleep, and thus escapes for a great length of
time ; as no murders are perpetrated while any one
is near the devoted person, or while he himself is
awake.** -

On the i26th the weather, which for some days
had been very bad, became milder, and I determined
on driving my visitors home to Alugnuk. Mr. Bird
and Dunn accompanied me, in hopes that we might
procure some ducks. We found about thirty na-
tives at the settlement, all very glad to see us, and
on their best behaviour ; almost all of them had fre-

DUCKS PROCURED.

413

me by

Too-

d him

1 near
a very
iie pre-
:acked,
ted oil
)ked or

)o-noo-
ctirn is
ill the
elatives
ar their
e inur-
st, but
s in no
he lies
ngth of
my one
nself is

ne days
ermined
[r. Bird
e might
irty na-
us, and
liad fre-

quently of late been lodged by me, and they again
hoped to get a warm sleep, and plenty to eat. As
I took a tent, &c. we were quite independent, but
I believe we could easily have procured house-room
had we wanted it. Nannow, father to my last visitors,
and a fine, respectable old man, was all attention,
and wherever he might be living since his arrival at
Igloolik, parties always found him the same, and
unsolicitous for presents.

The morning of the 27th was extremely fine and
clear ; no floating ice was seen, but one boundless and
shining space of calm blue water. We procured a
few more ducks, and want of ammunition compelled
us to return. The men in the kayaks considered
themselves amply rewarded by receiving the skins of
the female ducks to make jackets of for summer
wear, but the brilliant males we kept as specimens.
The fat attached to the skin of these birds is con-
sidered as the highest luxury when sucked raw from
a newly-killed bird. Men, women, and children,
seem so much delighted with its taste, that the happy
one who is in the act of sucking the skin is gazed
upon by the others with the same wishing eye as
dogs cast at those who are eating. The land about
Alugnuk was very slightly uncovered, and the largest
space of bare shingle was just sufficient for the floor
of our tent. Ice for many miles in extent had
broken off since Captain Parry went to Pingitkalik,
but the open water was still about sixteen miles
from the ships. , . -

414

TOOOm^AT'S DKATH.

1 1, .4 >

*;■

Captain Parry sent a party of four for the purpose
of making some stay near the water, and borrowed
our small boat for them, in consequence of the
Fury's boats having, in a most singular manner,
sunk during the winter below the upper surface of
the sea ice on which they had been placed, and they
were now solidly fixed and full of water. Several
natives came over the island from Kayaktarioo, and
all reported having crossed several deer tracks not
far from the ships, but the weather was so very cold
and windy that no person felt inclined to go and look
after the new comers.

June 1st. May had now passed, yet such had
been the severity of the season, that, with the exceji-
tion of a few days in the beginning of the month,
the thermometer rarely rose at noon to the freezing
point, and at night fell many degrees below it. This
backwardness of the weather very much retarded an
expedition I was prepared to make to the southward
and v^restward, as from experience I had before found
how impracticable it would be to travel until we
could procure water for our support, without thawing
snow. ■ ' ■'•■ A.' ' ^ -" .- '-'- ... .: i-' ^

On the 5th, we heard that poor Togorlat, of
whom I have often spoken as a Winter Island ac-
quaintance, was dead. She had been ailing for some
time, and we rather expected her death than her re-
covery, for she l:^d fallen ill of a complaint in her
stomach, which had always proved fatal to the Eski-
niaux when once obliged to take to their bed.

,■> ( I

TOOLEMAK TAKES l^EAVE.

415

purpose
orrowed

of the
manner,
irfacc of
md they

Several
ioo, and
acks not
ery cold
and look

uch had
e excep-
! month,
freezing
it. This
irded an
mthward
re fomid
until we
thawing

Deer, hut in what number I know not, had been
seen at the place where Togorlat died, which was at
some little station near Amityook.

Toolemak and his wife came to see me previous to
my departure, which was named for the morrow;
but I soon found it was only an excuse to beg, which
caused their instant dismissal ; I had indeed so loaded
this couple with presents of all descriptions, that I
was universally blamed as having spoiled them. Some
others, who pretended^also to pay a farewell visit,
were wise enough not to beg, and accordingly re-
ceived such abundance of gifts, that I heard my worthy
atata and amama abusing me on deck in every key
to which they could raise their voice ; as Toolemak
however was uncertain of seeing me again before
he went on his purposed summer journey, he very
politely desired me to give his compliments to the
kabloona's annatko ''king George) in these friendly
terms : " Toolemak okadlekpok (speaks) Kinnt Aasi
(or king George IV.) welly well I taank you."

orlat, of
land ac-
for some
n her re-
it in her
;he Eski-
d. ^•«^'-^'

410

lOUUNKY IN SEAKCII OV

I .i^i

CIlAPTEIl XI.

Journey in search of a western sea, and return — Arrival of
strangers — Fisli protnired — A river discovered — Mice — Mr.
Hoppner's two excursions — Walrus sinks a boat — The ice
breaks up — Reasons for the ships returning home — The ships
make an oflF.ng.

JOURNEY IN SEARCH OP THE WESTERN SEA.

Nothing can be more uninteresting to readers of
journals than a long detail of courses and distance.s,
which lead to no object of importance ; I therefore
shall curtail as much as possible my report to Cap-
tain Parry, of my unsuccessful attempt to reach the
Western Sea, spoken of as being one day's journey
from Igloolik.

On the 7th, at noon, the weather being tolerably
favourable, we left the ships at noon. Alexander
Gordon (Greenland mate) and George Dunn were
the men who accompanied me. Our sledge, which
weighed 191 pounds, carried twelve hundred weight
more, besides my men and myself, who all rode
while on the sea ice.

Sleeping by the way, we arrived at noon, on the
8th, at the head of Quilliam Creek, and from the
mountains near it obtained a view of what we sup-
posed to be the plain over which the Eskimaux pass
to the sea. It ran in a S. S. E. direction ; but
though the bearings were unfavourable, we were in

A WKSTKRN SKA.

41'

Arrival of
^ ice— Mr.
— Tlie ice
-The sliips

*EA.

eadcrs of
listances,
therefore
t to Cap-
reach the
i journey

tolerably
lexander
inn were
e, which
d weight
all rode

I, on the
Vom the

we sup-
aux pass
on ; but

were in

hopes that it would turn after a few miles to the
westward ; besides this, it was the only place that
was passable on account of its flatness, all the neigh-
bouring land being mountainous and rugged.

In the evening my men, rambling in chase of
deer, saw the tracks of five different bears on the
snow, and one of these animals had climbed a moun-
tain's side, which neither of my people could creep
up on account of its steepness.

On the morning of the 9th we directed our course
over the plain : it was covered to the depth of some
feet with snow, while on our right a high ridge of
granite mountains, whose pinnacles alone were bare,
extended as far as the eye could reach. A heavy
N. W. gale with thick snow, at a temperature of 25",
soon set in, and incommoded us extremely. Our
faces and hands were painfully swollen by exposure
to it, and our track was not seen for above half a
mile. After eight hours walking we lay for the
night on the snow, the gale continuing unabated.

It was not until five p. m. of the 10th that the
snow ceased, and we ascended some snow-covered
hills in a westerly direction, but with infinite labour,
as the recent fall was so soft that the dogs sunk to
their bellies at every step, and even our snow shoes
were rather an encumbrance than of any assistance.
In the course of two hours we reached the top of the
hills, whence to our mortification we saw a chain of
mountains lying immediately across our path at about
three miles distance. A return of heavy snow again
compelled us to pitch our tent, in which we re-

E E

418

JOURNEY IN SEARCH OF

niained very uncomfortable all night at a tempera-
ture of 20°. The snow continued falling until half
past three p. m. of !he lltli, when I set forward to
attempt a passage aniongst the mountains, which
were now as completely and as deeply covered as in
mid winter, and we absolutely waded through the
soft snow. Two hours' exertion brought us to what
appeared a piece of good flat table-land, when, to
our infinite disappointment, we found ourselves on
the brink of a precipice, from whose foot the ragged
granite mountains again rose. On stopping the
sledge it sank deep in a snow wreath, and all our
efforts to move it were of no avail, until, after an
hour's labour, we unloaded, cleared, and reloaded it,
having been obliged to throw away above a hundred
weight of such articles as could be most easily spared.
On starting, it again overset, and once more our la-
bour was repeated ; but ourselves and dogs were so
fatigued and discouraged with the severity of the
weather and the heaviness of travelling, that I almost
determined on leaving the sledge to its fate, perceiving
how impossible it was for even an unloaded man to
ascend or to make any progress amongst the moun-
tains before us. At last, however, I resolved on re-
turning to the lower land, and travelling along it until
I should find some indications of an opening through
the mountains to the westward. Seven hours' passage
over the plain brought us to a small bare patch of
shingle limestone, on which we tented. A gale and
heavy unceasing snow confined us here until five p. m.
on the iitli. I have seldom passed a more dreary

A WESTERN SEA.

419

tempera-
mtil half
►rward to
IS, which
;red as in
oiigh the
s to what
when, to
•selves on
le ragged
)ping the
id all our
, after an
iloaded it,
a hundred
lily spared.
>re our la-
gs were so
ity of the
at I almost
, perceiving
ed man to
the moun-
ilved on re-
ong it until
ng through
urs* passage
re patch of
A gale and
itil five P.M.
nore dreary

time than this ; for the sun being at this season al-
ways above the horizon at midnight, and yet not
being seen on account of the snow, caused a conti-
nual and most fatiguing glare, extremely painful to
the eyes : our view was limited to about 100 yards ;
and this, with the discontented whining of our dogs,
was altogether tormenting beyond expression.

Before starting from our place of confinement, I
obtained the latitude and longitude, the sun having
shown itself for a short period, and for the first time
since seven days. We now travelled for five hours
over the plain, on which we observed the track of a
bear and several deer recently printed on the snow.
On stopping at a rocky point, we saw the ships with
a glass at about twenty-five miles north-east of us.
The constant trending of the mountains to the east-
ward had constrained us to keep in a most unfavour-
able course ; and I now perceived that we must have
taken a wrong route, for it was utterly impossible that
any Eskimaux sledge could have passed over the
mountains at whose feet we had been travelling, and
yet I knew of no other way by which they might
make a western course. I did not, however, give
up all hopes, when I observed that the hills here be-
came somewhat lower, and, above all, began to trend
to the south-west; which, in a certain degree, cor-
responded with the Eskimaux description of the land
over which they passed. At the foot of the point lay
a long narrow lake, and near it a small but deep ra-
vine ; on the shingle ridges were numerous Eskimaux

E E 2

420

JOURNEY IN SEARCH OF

. 4 .^

circles, and piles of stones. A golden plover, the
first we had yet seen, passed us on the wing. Tra-
velling about three miles round the point, we passed
the night, which was bitter cold, on the snow. The
dogs here broke my thermometer.

The 15th was thick and cloudy with a piercing
N. W. gale ; we however proceeded without having
any fixed object to guide us, until two of the dogs
were so exhausted, that we were obliged to tent for
some hours on the snow to recover them. In fact,
my whole team were much distressed, as they were
unaccustomed to land travelling, and the depth and
softness of the snow caused the sledge to hang con-
stantly as a dead weight upon them. We again
went forward, after resting, until one a. m. of the
l6th, when we tented on some rocks of serpentine,
amongst which we procured abundance of water, a
luxuiy we had as yet enjoyed but sparingly; owing to
our road having been constantly over a snow-covered
plain, we could only procure it by thawing, and in
consequence our stock of fuel was much reduced.
We here found the first flower I had yet seen ; it
was the beautiful little purple saxifraga oppositifolia,
whose blossoms appear before its leaves.

The l6th was tolerably fine, and I determined on
enjoying the comfort of a good dry rock until the
evening. In the meantime we repaired our snow-
shoes, and afforded nnicli relief to our blistered feet
by bathing them. Deer tracks were here very nu-
merous, but we saw no animals, owing to the con-

A VVESTEllN SEA.

421

^er, the
. Tra-
j passed
r. The

piercing
t having
:he dogs
tent for
In fact,
ley were
jpth and
mg con-
'e again
[. of the
•pentinc,
water, a
owing to
-covered
, and in
reduced,
seen ; it
ositifolia,

ninctl on
until the
mr snow
ered feet
very nu-
thc con-

stant wliining and fighting of our dogs, which in-
variably drove every thing from us. Starting at
night, we traversed a long and, as far as we could
discern through the thick weather, a broad lake, and
then entered on so rocky and uneven a country that
we proceeded but slowly. At the expiration of nine
hours we tented on a small rock in the centre of a
second large lake, and could just discern the moun-
tains at about a mile on the right.

A fresh and cold easterly wind was blowing all
the 17th, which day I occupied by taking a nine
hours' walk amo^jgst the mountains, in order to see
if I could find any passage to the Western Sea.
From the highest part of the range we commanded a
view of about fifteen miles, but all equally unfavour-
able. Dunn on our return killed a doe, and we
gave the better half of it to the dogs, which required
refreshment, their daily allowance being only one
pound of walrus fiesh each. I here obtained the
latitude and longitude.

On the 18th we proceeded about eight miles S. E.
over a lake to a low point, but on arriving at it, such
a heavy snow storm set in, that we could not see
half a mile in any direction : we therefore tented,
and while doing so, a large buck, which passed with-
out observing us, was killed by Dunn. Of this ani-
mal, as the former, we gave the greater part to the
hungry dogs. The night was bleak, and so tem-
pestuous, that we constantly expected the tent would
be blown over. A silvery gull hovered over, and
teased us with its screaming for several hours.

422

JOURNEY IN SKAllCH OF

U-4S*!,

,<' n

We fouiid t%at the snow had fallen to a great
depth during the night. Towards noon it ceased,
but the piercing cold gale continued, and the drift
flew about in clouds. In the afternoon we quitted
the point for another, still S. E. and about seven
miles distant. Arriving at this, on which we saw
seventeen deer at once, we observed a distant ridge
bearing south, and encouraged by seeing the land
turning a little in the desired direction, we pro-
ceeded for it with the wind blowing so sharply in
our faces as to cause them to swell and be very pain-
ful. Having travelled three hours through soft
snow, we discovered that the mountains made a
most provoking sweep to a very distant range S. E.
All my hopes of making westing now ceased, and
I was obliged to give up the attempt. I therefore
moved over the plain to the foot of the mountains,
and there tented, determined on waiting until the
gale should moderatti, when I would retrace my
steps to Quilliam Creek, from whence, if the season
permitted, I would proceed in some other direction.

The N. E. gale continued during the early part
of the day ; yet, I would have set out in despite of
our swelled faces, had it not been that the strength
of the wind prevented our walking, by catching and
turning up our broad snow shoes in such a manner
as frequently to trip us up. On setting out we
made a forced march, and went the two last days*
journeys before we tented on the little rocky isle,
where we had slept on the 17th. In the course of
our walk we saw numerous deer, some flocks of king

A WESTEllN SEA.

423

I a great
it ceased,
the drift
le quitted
out seven
h we saw
ant ridge

the land
, we pro-
jharply in
very pain-
ough soft
J made a
mge S. E.
eased, and

therefore
nountains,

until the
etrace my
the season
lirection.
early part

despite of
le strength
;ching and
I a manner
)g out we

last days*
rocky isle,
J course of
ks of king

ducks, and a couple of gulls. The wind, which had
come round to the N. W., was so cold during the night,
that water froze solid in the kettle, which we had
with us in the closed tent as we slept.

The wind continued during the ^21 st, and in the
afternoon we set out, but were soon detained, in
consequence of one of the dogs slipping his harness
and giving chase to a couple of deer, which he pur-
sued into the mountains with great spirit, and was
soon out of sight, regardless of all our cries to stop him.
We waited for some time, and at last gave him up
for lost, when, at the expiration of a couple of hours,
and after having advanced two or three miles, we
saw him tracking our footsteps, and coming back
much fatigued. We travelled nine hours on this
day, yet very slowly, owing to my having sprained
my foot amongst the rocks some days before, and
the pain having now become very troublesome. Soon
after midnight we arrived at the rock on which we
had slept on the iGth. Dunn shot a fine buck near
the tent, and we saw several other deer while he
was in chase of it ; I took my gun from the sledge,
and was occupied in loading it, when the dogs, by
mutual consent, rushed after the deer, and notwith-
standing the fatigue they had previously undergone,
ran off with the loaded sledge at such a rate, that
neither Gordon nor myself could catch them, u!itil
a broad rock bjought them up.

My leg being much swollen and inflamed, I de-
termined on resting for the day. Dunn went out
and shot a very large doc, which enabled us to give

424

JOUUNKY IN SKAKC II Ol

i ,

' Ji

the clogs such a quantity of meat and ottlil, with
their usual allowance oi* walrus Hesh, that they could
absolutely eat no more. I observed that when nearly
satisfied they paid little attention to the venison, but
sought out pieces of walrus flesh, and ate them in pre-
ference, even though they were almost dried up by
having been such a length of time in the meat bags.

The 23d was the flrst fine day we had seen for
several weeks, the sun shining with great splendour
and warmth, and softening the snow to such a de-
gree, that we were above knee-deep at every step.
We however waded forward for nine hours, and af
length reached the point whence we had seen the
ships. We here found the valley quite flooded, and
the ravine beginning to run. While tenting, we
observed a fox prowling on a hill side, and heard
him for some hours afterwards in different places,
imitating the cry of the brent goose.

It is worthy of remark, that after the sultry day a
very cold night set in, and though the sun was
about 3° high at midnight, and casting a painful
glare on every thing around, all the pools of water
were covered with ice half an inch in thickness.
This sudden change gave us great torment in our
hands and faces, which were quite scorched and
swollen by exposure to the sun, so that we could
scarcely sleep from the pain it occasioned us.

The 'il-th was as tlie preceding day. I found the
country so universally flooded, that I gave up all
hopes of reaching Quilliam Creek, and therefore de-
termined, during the coldest part of the niijjht, while

:al, with
ey could
III nearly
ison, but
n in pre-
jcl up by
eat bags,
seen for
plendour
eh a de-
Ejry step.
s, and at
seen the
ded, and
iting, we
id heard
t places,

;ry day a
sun was
I painful
of water
hickness.
it in our
hed and
,ve could

bund the
^e up all
efore de-
ht, while

A WKSTKUN SEA.

425

the snow was slightly crusted on the top, to make
for the ships. In the evening we set out, and after
wading rather than walking for eight hours, arrived
at four in the morning of the ^5th at the sea side,
about eight miles from the ships. Never did I get
into my blanket bag with more satisfaction than after
this day's journey. Dunn shot a brown and ash-
coloured crane (ardea Canadensis), which pitched
near us: it appeared quite exhausted for want of
food.

At four A. M. on the 2()th, we waded for eight
hours to the ship, having continually to extricate
the sledge, when amongst the hummocky icej at
about a mile astern of the Hecla, it was so completely
buried, that all our efforts were in vain, and we were
obliged to make a signal for assistance, ourselves
and dogs being quite exhausted. The ship's com-
pany soon came to our relief, and we arrived safe on
board.

During my absence of nineteen days, several na-
tives had taken their final departure from Igloolik,
in order to ramble during the summer to other settle-
ments, as was their yearly custom. Amongst others,
our friend Ooyarraokhioo and his wife Tabbi came
to take their leave, to the regret of every one, as
well as themselves. I was sorry to hear of their
departure, as I lost in them the most intelligent and
companionable of the tribe, and had now no one to
apply to for information, or rather, I knew no one
capable of affording it.

^26

AIUIIVAL OF STllANliEllS.

'$4..

..' I-

.1 '

Several strangers liad arrived from a place called
A-kOod-nlik, which they all agreed in saying was
five days to the N. W. These people brought most
interesting information, which was, that in the pre-
ceding year, two very large ships resembling ours, had
been wrecked at the above place; one still lay on
her broadside, the other was aground, but upright,
and both, as far as I could learn, were dismasted.
The Kabloonas, soon after being cast away, took to
their boats and put to sea. With the crew of one
ship were two women, as we supposed, for they were
described as having no breeches, but long clothes
hiding their legs. The story of the strangers was
well told; but the strongest confirmation of their
assertions was, that they had sledges made of the
painted rail-work of a ship ; and a cross piece of one
was composed of a head stave of a cask, on which
" Bread" was painted. They had also spears, eye-
shades whip handles, &c. of painted wood ; some of
the women had anchor buttons, and one was procured
which had a crest on it. As these accounts were
obtained during my absence, I am unable to state
any thing farther than what I heard on my arrival,
for the strangers had been so anxiously questioned
by every one, that I found them quite puzzled, and
incapable of giving any additional information. Mr.
Hoppner having volunteered his services to endea-
vour to reach Akoodnak, Captain Parry purposed
sending him there, if any favourable opportunity
should offer.

A SUJ»iMKU EXCUllSION.

427

;e called
ring was
irht most
the pre-
3urs, had
11 lay on
upright,
ismasted.
, took to
w of one
hey were
T clothes
igers was
of their
le of the
ce of one
an which
ears, eye-
some of
procured
ints were
to state
y arrival,
uestioned
zled, and
on. Mr.
to endea-
purposed
portunity

Captain Parry still remaining absent at a fish-
ing-place on my first arrival at the ships, I went
with Mr. Bird to pass a few days shooting on the
high land of Cupe Matthew Smith, which promised
by its appearance to abound in deer. My sledge
left us tented there, and we remained five days,
but without seeing any other creatures than a few
ducks. We were wetted to the skin every day
on this summer shooting excursion, but the heavy
rains completely cleaved the land, and the ice also, of
what remained of winter's snow •, ui\d when the sledge
came to bring us back, we travelled for many miles
through beautifully transparent water, which covered
the sea ice to the depth of from six inches to a foot
or two. The only way by which this body of fresh
water discharged itself was through the numerous
seal holes, each of which had such an eddy round it
that it was difficult to stand near.

A party of people who came to take leave, all
assured us that they were going immediately to
the wrecked ships ; Captain Parry therefore thought
this a favourable opportunity for the departure of Mr.
Hoppner, who was accordingly despatched with three
men and a fortnight's provisions, to accompany them.
I sent my four largest dogs, with panniers, to assist
in carrying the weight, and at midnight Mr. Hopp-
ner started for Kayaktarioo, whence the natives were
to proceed in the morning.

On Sunday the 13th, a party of two officers and
four men were sent, provisioned for a fortnight, to
the fishing-place, about forty miles to the westward.

4i^8

AN EXCITIISION IN SEAllCII C)l

, *•

I ^ .

in Quilliam Creek. Having nothing particular to
detain me on board, and wishing to enjoy what I
could of the half expired summer, I determined on
slowly following with my smaller team, and tenting
for a few days in the mountains beyond the creek,
to search for deer, and to make what observations I
could on the state of the country. One man and
myself occupied forty-eight hours on our journey
out, but the Fury's sledge made it in one long day.
I mention this trivial circumstance, to show the
narrow escape which one or both parties must have
had J for between the passing of the first and the
arrival of our sledge, the narrow part of the creek
above the Coxe isles, which was of perfectly smooth
ice, had by some wonderful convulsion been blown
up in a most extraordinary manner, and the ice
thrown in every direction. Our attention was first
arrested by seeing a high ragged-looking wall before
us, and on arriving at it, we found large masses of
ice eight or nine feet in thickness, and many yards
in diameter, lying on the solid and level floe ; we
were for some time at a loss to find the place
whence they had been ejected, and at length dis-
covered a hole or pool which appeared so small as
to be hardly capable of containing the immense
fragments near it j yet from this alone the ice must
have been thrown. The water, which I found to be
fresh, was running rapidly to seaward beneath this
opening, and I imagine that the vast accumulation
from the streams at the head of Quilliam Creek,
thou^ about ten miles distant, must have here

riSIl AND GAME.

129

ticular to
►y what I
mined on
(1 tenting
he creek,
rvations I
man and
p journey
long day.
show the
fiust have
; and the
the creek
ly smooth
ten blown
i the ice
1 was first
^all before
masses of
any yards
floe; we
the place
jngth dis-
small as
immense
ice must
und to be
neath this
umulation
im Creek,
have here

burst themselves a passage, and caused the forcible
ejection of the ice. Several of the blocks, and one
in particular, of above eight feet thick, and about
forty yards in circumference, were lying above 500
yards from the pool, and no traces could be foun'l of
the manner in which they had been transported to
that situation, as not a single small fragment was
lying about, to warrant the supposition that they had
fallen with a shock ; neither were any traces seen on
the smooth uncracked floe, to raise an idea that the
blocks had slid over it. The general appearance of
the solid ice was like the whole of that which filled
the inlet, and it did not seem as if even a momentary
rush of water had passed above it.

Having remained a day at the fishing-place, and
supplied the party with a small skin boat which I
carried out as an experiment, I removed, in the
evening, to the foot of the mountains at the head of
the creek, in order to enjoy an uninterrupted sport-
ing ground, and also to examine a large and rapid
river which emptied itself under the ice on the south
side of a large basin or bay which was formed here.

I remained amongst the mountains eight days,
and my man and I were out hunting from eight to
ten hours daily, yet we procured but a few ducks,
and eggs sufficient for our evening's meal. It was
not however to be wondered at, that our sport was
bad, since five days out of the six it rained un-
ceasingly, and in a truly arctic style. While here,
I examined the river, over the mouth of which it
appeared that I must have passed in my June -ex-

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

1.1

11.25

H^H

2.2

U 1 1.6

6" —

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

iSO

A RIVER.

pedition. It now ran with great rapidity, and
made such havock amongst the sea ice, that in a few
days there was not a piece left within two or three
miles of its mouth, which was ahout 300 yards in
breadth, and of very considerable depth. Proceeding
upwards for a mile, the width is about 150 yards,
and here are three rapids, almost amounting to falls, at
about 500 yards apart, their united descent being, as
near as I could judge, thirty feet. The stream above
these varies occasionally in width, from a hundred
yards to nearly half a mile ; and at three miles from
the mouth, a large estuary receives a second river of
an almost equal size, which comes from the N. W.,
while the larger stream then takes a turn to the S. £.
At the foot of the mountains the plains are well fur-
nished with grass, on which we occasionally saw a
few distant deer. A brown crane, of the same kind
as that shot by Dunn, appeared a constant inhabitant
of the river's banks, but we could never approach it.

We found in almost every direction where we wan-
dered, remains of Eskimaux summer circles, store-
houses, and fire-places, from which it would appear,
that a hunting season is occasionally passed here, and
I have no doubt that at a more advanced period, deer
are exceedingly plentiful.

On the 14th, I walked to return the visit of our
fishing gentlemen, who had called and lef): a mournful
slab of limestone in my tent, on which, beneath their
names, was inscribed, " Bad sport — no fish — no
deer :" but on my arrival I found them in ligh spirits,
the preceding day's labour having procured them

SAI.MON CAUC.HT.

431

.pidity, and
hat in a few
;wo or three
30 yards in

Proceeding
t 150 yards,
ng to falls, at
mt being, as
stream above
\ a hundred
e miles from
jond river of

the N.W.,
I to the S. E.
are well fur-
onally saw a
le same kind
nt inhabitant
' approach it.
here we wan-
circles, store-
rould appear,
sed here, and

period, deer

J visit of our
ft a mournful
beneath their
-no fish — no
a ligh spirits,
ocured them

about 100 salmon. In this walk I found the river
had made such progress in thawing the ice, that it
was necessary I should remove as speedily as possible
to the fishing-place, lest my retreat should be cut off
entirely. On the following morning, tl^erefore, Mr.
Crozier, with his whole party, came to assist in re-
moving our baggage, and we reached his tent in safety,
though we passed for two or three miles over ice
which actually trembled beneath our tread. Our
change of abode was well-timed, for in a few hours
the place over which we walked, and even a mile
below the present station, was entirely thawed, and a
deep sea of fresh water occupied the place of the ice.
Fine weather now set in, and proved highly favourable
to our fishermen, who in three days caught above three
hundred fish, which consoled us all for our former
bad success and repeated wet jackets. The salmon,
which I believe are the Salmo Alpinus of Linnaeus,
were well formed firm fish, and full of spawn ; their
average size about that of a horse mackerel, though
many were much bigger. The largest measured
28 inches, and when cleaned, weighed 8 J lbs. The
fishing-place is at the foot of an inconsiderable little
ravine, across which it was easy to wade when at its
fullest. Where it mixes with the sea, the Eskimaux
have erected a low wall of stones, about a foot high,
behind which they stand to spear the fish, but they
are obliged to exercise all their patience in this occu-
pation, as I never once saw a salmon come within
many yards of the dike. Our people made use of a
trawl in taking the fish, and the little boat was em-

432

MICE.

-J.

ployed in laying it out, and then alarming and driving
the salmon into it.

We now became very anxious for the return of
the sledges, which had been sent back after bringing
us out ; as the river was extended to a couple of miles
beyond us on the way to the ships. In the meantime
I walked out during a whole day, in search of snow
geese, which had been seen inland. After about
five miles ramble, I succeeded in seeing seventeen of
these birds walking in a line, but I could not get
near them, owing to a large lake between us. The
banks of this water were quite sprinkled with the
feathers of the brent geese, which had began to
moult, and I observed, with astonishment, long
ridges of mouse dung several inches deep, extending
for above two miles. By what means this could have
arrived here, I was at a loss to conceive, as I did not
see any mouse holes, or other traces of these ani-
mals; besides which they live in stony dry places,
and this was a swamp. It is possible, however, that
this accumulation of the excrements of mice may be
from the mus Hudsonius ; occasionally migrating in
the same wonderful manner as the lemmer of Lap-
land. I learnt from Mr. Crozier, who had found a
snow goose nest, that these birds lay five eggs.
The brent goose lays four, and the latter bird lines
its nest with down, in the same manner as the eyder
and king duck, but the down is of a far lighter
colour, being of a slaty hue.

At night on the 17th, the Fury*s sledge arrived
within a mile of us, with a team of thirteen dogs be-

V.y

RETURN TO THE SHIPS.

433

and driving

i return of
er bringing
pie of miles
e meantime
eh of snow
Vfter about
eventeen of
lid not get
n us. The
d with the
1 began to
merit, long
I, extending
i could have
IS I did not
' these ani-
dry places,
wever, that
ice may be
ligrating in
ler of Lap-
ad found a
five eggs,
bird lines
the eyder
far lighter

Ige arrived
n dogs be-

longing to both ships, and such as were the least
foot-sore. The following morning was occupied in
carrying our things to the sledge, and in the after-
noon we started. One dog had escaped to the ships,
and another was left loose on account of its bad feet,
so that we had but eleven crippled animals to drag
a load, which on being weighed at the ships, was
found to be 20.50 lbs. The poor beasts, by the time
they arrived, had completed three days without food.
We travelled eight hours the first day, and slept on
one of the Coxe Groupe.

The following morning we again set out, and in
twelve hours more the sledge arrived. This trip had
occupied fourteen days, and I now determined on re-
maining a little at the ship, as I had slept on board
four nights only in six weeks. My excursions had been
chiefly made for the purpose of enjoying the summer,
but in the whole of the above time I had seen but
eight days of sunshine : the rest of the season had
been pleasantly varied by alternate showers of snow
or rain, and occasional gales of two or three days*
continuance. I had hoped to be refreshed by an
occasional leaf of sorrel, but none was to be found ;
and the only real luxury I had enjoyed was a mess
of fresh fish, and a glass, or more properly, a tin-pot,
full of egg-flip, which was a greater treat than even
the salmon.

I found that Mr. Hoppner had returned a day or
two before me, having quitted the party he hoped to
have accompanied to the northward. As might have

F F

434

Mil. HOPPNUl'S TWO KXCUllSIONS,

u*-

!>'

been expected of these uncertain savages, they only
proceeded to Cockburn Island, and there, having pro-
cured plenty of seals and other food, seemed in no
hurry to depart. Mr. Hoppner, finding that no
decision could be obtained as to their movements,
left them after having waited a few days : they were
very kind to him, and as hospitable as I had found
them in a former instance, when the ships were not
near. On that occasion they constantly fed my dogs,
and seldom, if ever, begged any thing.

Mr. Hoppner particularly dwelt on the general
happiness and gaiety which prevailed at this season.
Seals' flesh, ducks, and eggs, were abundant ; and
the days and sunny nights were occupied in feasting,
singing, romping, and dancing. I was surprised to
hear that the women, particularly the young ones,
amused themselves by going out and watching seal
holes, and that they frequently killed these animals.
Mrs. Kettle, as it appeared, was quite a veteran in
this way; arraying herself in man's boots, she con-
stantly went out with the men on their hunting
parties, with her line and khiatko over her shoulder,
and a strong spear in her hand. Such a heroine de-
served, and did meet with great success ; she killed
several seals, chiefly for their skin, food being now
so abundant that the hunters frequently left the car-
casses, unless near the shore.

The walruses having now began to appear in the
open water, near Igloolik, it was requisite to procure
some as provision for our dogsj two boats, with

AND ACCOUNT OF J'llK NATIVES.

435

crews and officers, were therefore carried on sledges
over the ice, to a point about five miles from the
ships, whence they could be launched at pleii-
sure. Tents also, provisions, &c. were taken for a
fortnight.

On the 21st Mr. Hoppncr, with (ieorge Dunn,
left us with my small sledge, and a team of the best
dogs of each ship, for the purpose of connecting the
northern shore, and ascertaining what openings might
exist in the route to be pursued by the Fury j a mea-
sure by which much labour might be saved. The wea-
ther was extremely unfavourable for some days, and a
heavy fog with drizzling rain quite hid the country.

A couple of walruses, and an ooghiook also, were
killed in the course of the week. Mr. Richards, who
was charged with our fishing party, found the bodies
of a man and woman, who, as I before mentioned,
had been partly devoured by dogs in the winter,
again exposed by some animals having dug them up.
He buried them, and some young children likewise,
on which the " larus parasiticus," or boatswain gulls,
were feeding as they lay in the swampy ground.

On the 30th we bent sails and cables, and were in
all respects prepared for sea. Mr. Hoppner returned
in the evening, and notwithstanding the unfavourable
state of the weather, had performed what was re-
quisite, and connected the land as laid down in the
general chart.

One opening which we had seen, and had been
unable to examine at the close of the last year, was

r F 2

436

THE CJIFFOllD KIVKR.

L*«

found by him to be a most magnificent river, from
three miles to one and a half in breadth. Up this, on
the unbroken but much-decayed ice, he proceeded
for several miles, and afterwards, on coming to the
open water, walked still farther along its banks.
The place at which he turned back was above fifteen
miles from the entrance, and he could see the river
still continuing its breadth for about fifteen miles
higher up. He here found the Eskimaux slowly
making their way towards Too-noo-ne-roo-shuk :
they were in tents at the edge of the fresh water ice
awaiting its breaking up, when the men were to pro-
ceed up the river in their canoes, while the women
and dogs carried burthens by land : they had abund-
ance of very fine salmon, which were taken in a little
trickling stream, like that in Quilliam Creek. All
the natives spoke of a large water-fall, about a day's
walk beyond where Mr. Hoppner reached. The
banks of the river were more rich in herbage than
any place Mr. Hoppner had seen in these regions,
yet only two deer were there. The Eskimaux ac-
counted for this by saying that a couple of she
wolves, with their young, were prowling about near
the river side, and had scared the deer away.

As the astronomer's tent was to be struck on the
1st of August, we on this evening all received a
most polite invitation from Mr. Crauford, the wor-
thy old Greenland mate of the Fury, to tea and
cards, but, in fact, to a merry smoking party, in
which we might all meet once more while the ice

STATE or TIIK ICE.

487

was firm enough to admit of our walking on shore.
The officers of both ships found abundant room in
the tent, and we passed a most agreeable evening, in
which laughter and good-fellowship were sufficient
excuses for the antiquity of our songs and jokes,
which in two long winters were pretty well worn out
by. repetition.

On the 1st of August, the Rev. G. Fisher, in
order to avoid confusion in shifting his instruments
at a future day, now removed to the Hecla for his
passage to England, and at my request became my
messmate.

The harbour ice had now thawed into deep pools,
through which we were often obliged to wade in
passing between the ships. The general thaw, how-
ever, had ceased ; for during the night-time, as well
as a week before, a strong coat of ice had formed over
these pools, and not unfrequently had remained un-
thawed all day.

On this afternoon I went to examine the state of
the ice near the eastern point of Igloolik. . and in
order more fully to ascertain its condition, rode out
on my sledge, which was cariying tools, &c. to a spot
where it was determined to commence sawing, and
which was five long miles from our ships. At a par-
ticular point, a mile from the Fury, a crack had been
observed for some time, extending quite across the
inlet ; but its breadth was as yet inconsiderable,
being from one to ten feet only, according to the state
of the tide ; between this and the sea, there were still

438

WALItUSES SINK A BOAT.

al)out four miles of unbroken field ice. Endeavour-
ing to pass near the shore, at the end of the crack,
we got on some detached pieces of ice, and from one
of them the loaded sledge was canted off into ten
feet water. As I had with me two men and twelve
dogs, we, after some trouble, succeeded in weighing
the vehicle, and proceeding on our journey. It was
a pleasing consideration to find it at last possible to
tumble through the ice, as when once a small break
is perceived it soon extends itself.

I found Mr. Sherer, who commanded our hunting
boats, just returning with one, and towing the other,
which had been swamped in consequence of having
been badly stove by a wounded walrus. A herd had
been attacked, and of these he killed five ; three of
them were lost, having sunk when they died, in con-
sequence of the harpoons breaking ; the other two were
brought on shore. Mr. Sherer described the fury of the
wounded animals as being quite outrageous, but those
which were unhurt quickly forsook their suffering
companions. The beast which sank the first boat struck
his tusks repeatedly through her bottom, and she filled
immediately. Had she been alone, not a soul of her
crew could have been saved, for there was no ice within
three miles, and to swim would have been impossible
in such cold water. Mr. Sherer's boat was also badly
stove, and was scarcely kept free by constant baling.

On the 3d, to our great joy, we observed that the
crack, of which I have spoken, had opened so much
as to be seen from the ships ; while the outer floe had

R-- nUEAKS Ul».

liiO

Kiulcavour-
f the crack,
(1 from one
iff into ten
and twelve
n weighing
3y. It was
possihlc to
small break

)ur hunting
y the other,
D of having
A herd had
e ; three of
ied, in con-
ler two were
e fury of the
IS, but those
ir suffering
k boat struck
nd she filled
soul of her
10 ice within
1 impossible
IS also badly
;ant baling,
^ed that the
ed so much
iter floe had

moved a little to seaward ; this rendered sawing at
the sea edge unnecessary, and it was therefore settled
that our operations should commence from the crack
to the ships.

On the 4th, the crews of both ships commenced
sawing, and were thus employed until the 7th, when
we perceived that the ice in shore of the Fury had
separated from the land. The people were in con-
sequence instantly recalled, and every preparation
was made for leaving our winter quarters. Mr.
Sherer came on board with his party, having left his
boats, gear, tents, &c. and eight walruses at Igloolik,
to be brought off by the earliest opportunity.

The weather had now been fine for five successive
days, which was the longest period of good wann and
clear weather we had ever seen since leaving England,
yet still the young ice always formed at nighl.

On the morning of the 8th I received a letter on
service from Captain Parry, enclosing tv;o others from
the medical officers of his ship, desiring me to give
my opinion as to the future operations of the Fury, and
asking if I still thought it would be for the benefit of
the service that she should remain out. The surgeon's
opinion respecting the general state of the Fury's crew
so exactly coincided with what I had also observed in
the Hecla, that I had no hesitation in answering
Captain Parry ; and I here insert my letter, as it may
better explain my ideas on this important subject.

" The health of your crew being of the utmost

UKASONS rOH BOTH

importance in every point of view, I shall, in the
first place, state, that independently of the weighty
opinions of your medical officers, I have for some
lime been apprehensive, that the Fury's passing
another winter in this countiy would be extremely
hazardous. I am induced thus to express myself from
the great change I have observed in the constitution
of the officers and men of his majesty's ship Hecla,
and by the appearance of some very severe cases of
scurvy since the summer has commenced. I am also
aware that the same scorbutic symptoms have been
noticed, and do still exist in the Fury.

** Our long continuance on one particular diet, our
almost total deprivation of fresh animal or vegetable
food for above two years, and the necessary and close
confinement we have been subjected to during several
months of each severe winter, have undoubtedly oc-
casioned the general change of constitution which has
for some time been so evident. I therefore conceive
that a continued exposure to the same deprivations
and confinements, the solitude of a single ship, and
the painful monotony of another winter to men whose
health is already precarious, would, in all probability,
be attended with very serious consequences.

** When, at the commencement of the last winter,
I gave it as my opinion that the service would be
benefited by your remaining out in the Fury as you
proposed, and still attempting a farther passage to
the westward, I did not anticipate so long a confine-
ment in the ice as we have unfortunately experienced.

;i::.v<i.^s'

SHIPS RKTURNING IIO^fK.

441

ill» ill the

ic weighty

! for some

's passing

extremely

I y self from

onstitution

hip Hecla,

re cases of

I am also

have been

lY diet, our
• vegetable
f and close
ing several
ibtedly oc-
, which has
•e conceive
eprivations
I ship, and
nen whose
robability,

ist winter,
would be
iry as you
)assage to
a confine-
perienced,

and I formed my opinion on the supposition, and in
full expectation, that we should be at liberty about
the 1st of July of this year, and that the general
good liealth which then prevailed would still con-
tinue. From our being detained until the present
time, I now consider that the season in which it
is possible to navigate has so far passed, that no-
thing material can be effected by either one or both
ships. We know, from the experience of last year,
that it is not before the end of August or the com-
mencement of September that the ice breaks up in
the large strait to the northward of Igloolik, and
that until that period you would not be enabled
to re-examine the Strait of the Fury and Hecla.
Even were you to do so, and were you, as there
is every reason to expect, to find it still closed,
you would have barely sufficient time to return to
Igloolik, in order to pass your third winter. Again
— should the sea prove open to the north-eastward,
and should you deem it expedient to attempt, by
rounding the extensive land in that direction, to find
some other passage to the westward, you would in
that case depart from the Admiralty instructions by
leaving the coast of America ; and I also conceive,
that the extreme lateness of the season would not
admit of your making discoveries of any importance,
or, at all events, of such importance as to warrant
your passing a third winter at the risk of endangering
the safety of your officers and crew.

44^

THE SHIPS MAKE AN OFFING.

" Having stated my reasons for changing my
former opinion, I now beg to advise that the Fury
and Hecia return to England together, as soon as
such arrangements respecting removal of stores and
provisions as you may judge proper to make shall be
completed."

Almost immediately after I had received Captain
Parry's letter, and while in the act of writing my an-
swer, the harbour floe separated in several places under
the influence of a fresh north-west breeze. Both ships
made all sail at eleven a. m. and the Fury being in
an opening, got to sea by one p. m. In the Hecla
we were not so fortunate ; being unable to make any
impression on our winter floe, we were in consequence
carried out by it at a very slow* rate. We lay with
all sail set in a little open pool which had thawed
round us, and were perhaps the first ship that ever
was so carried out of harbour. The novelty of the con-
veyance, however, excited no very pleasant feelings ;
for we remained all night in great suspense as to
where we might next be carried, a shoal point lying
across the entrance of the inlet. At eight a. m. on
the 9th, having made a little offing, the short sea
broke our fetters, and with all sail before the wind
we ran clear of the ice.

We had now passed three hundred and nineteen days
in our winter quarters, of which three hundred and
ten were in the floe from which we had just cleared

THE SHIPS MAKE AN OFFING.

443

ourselves. I shall not attempt a description of our
sensations on this day; there are some people who
can easily imagine them, and those who cannot, will
never have waded thus far through my journal. We
had now been part of every month in the year in
confinement, having entered on the 24th of Septem-
ber, and being freed on the 9th of August.

444

PREPARATIONS FOR RETURNING.

l*"^

CHAPTER XII.

Expedition returning. — A lan-dmark erected. — Account of Igloolik
— Drift of the ship— Danger of the ships while driving — Lyon
Inlet — Death of Mr. George Fife — His case — The ships drive
out of Lyon Inlet — Open water seen, and an offing made —
Passage down Hudson's Strait and across the Atlantic — Arrival
and hospitable reception at Lerwick.

On joining the Fury, I went on board to Captain
Parry, and from him received a letter to read to my
officers and ship's company, informing them of the
change which was about to take place. We now beat
up the Inlet to our old wintering quarter, which, as
if by magic, had been entirely cleared of ice in one
night; and it was also open as far as we could see up
Quilliam Creek from the highest ground.

Preparations were now made for our receiving
several of the stores and provisions which we had
supplied to the Fury in the spring. Captain Parry
purposed remaining here a week, in order to paint
and equip his ship for her passage home.

The whole day of the 10th was occupied in trans-
porting stores, and before night every thing was
finished and stowed.

Soon after midnight of the 10th, we observed the
strait to be rapidly filling with ice j and at one a. m.
a very heavy floe came down at the rate of two

A LANDMARK ERECTED.

445

untoflgloolik
riving — Lyon
le ships drive
iffing made —
Qtic — Arrival

to Captain
read to my
lem of the
'e now beat
, which, as
ice in one
uld see up

receiving
h we had
tain Parry
• to paint

I in trans-
hing was

jerved the
one A. M.
e of two

knots, and settled across our bows : before we could
weigh the anchor, the whole floe pressed on the cable,
and drove us with it. After two or three hours*
labour, we purchased the anchor. Both ships con-
tinued under sail ; and early in the morning I visited
Captain Parry, who, in consequence of the danger
attendant on anchoring in the only place which had
appeared likely to shelter us, now resolved to give
up all idea of painting, and to proceed home imme-
diately.

In the forenoon a party of three boats were sent
to the main land with the Fury's hand-mast, which,
with a large ball at its head, and good strong rigging,
was set up on a point, in obedience to the Admiralty
instructions, as a mark for Captain Franklin, should
he pass this way. Letters were buried at the foot of
the mast. I went with other boats despatched to
Igloolik, to bring off a party who had been sent on
the preceding day to catch some salmon, and also for
the purpose of securing four of the numerous walruses
which had been killed, as food for our dogs. Each
ship landed their sledges, broken spars, and in fact
whatever could be spared that might be useful to the
natives who might come next year ; and in order that
the first arrivals should not secure all these valuables,
they were scattered about the island. The flood tide
again brought with it floes of several miles in extent,
which filled the inlet ; so that what with grounding,
being beset, and various other impediments, we had
been fourteen hours away before we reached the ships

4M>

IGLOOLIK.

at near midnight : even when we did get clear with
five of our boats, we were obliged to leave behind us
a whale-boat belonging to the Fury, as she was
hauled up on a beach a mile or two beyond where
we could reach with the other boats and crews to
launch her. We were fortunate enough, after pass-
ing a very unpleasant night, to get to sea in the
forenoon of the 12th, in a very dense fog, a south-
east wind blowing : the sea was full of loose and
heavy ice, amongst which we beat all day. In the
evening, after some very heavy rain, we saw our-
selves near Sunday Island.

IGLOOLIK.

We now considered ourselves as having taken a
final leave of Igloolik, near which we had made so
tedious and dreary a stay. It is an island of about ten
miles in length by six in breadth, and is of a very
singular form, being almost equally divided by a deep
bay, at whose mouth we wintered, which goes nearly
through it, the two halves of the land being merely
joined by a small ledge a few yards in width. The
bay is too shoal for our ships. The island is low
and tolerably even, the highest land being at its
western extremity, and " table-topped." Its eleva-
tion above the sea is 174f feet; and it is composed of
loose shingle limestone, with much magnesia in its
composition. With the exception of the above rising
ground, the whole island may be considered as one
immense swamp, full of lakes, and covered with

IGLOOLIK.

447

stunted herbage. A few ridges of gravel occur oc-
casionally. The beaches are all of the same lime-
stone as the hills ; and we obtained, on several ridges
near the sea, some curious fish bones and shells in a
fossil state, and numerous comu ammonii. There is
no regular rocky formation to be seen, though the
neighbouring lands are of granite ; but the whole
island appears to have been formed by the action of
the ice which presses on it, and occasionally turns
up the beach for a great distance ; for notwithstand-
ing limestone predominated, granite, gneiss, iron,
and other minerals were abundantly scattered amongst
it in small detached masses. The whole coast is
very shoal, but the soundings are regular. Owing
to the shallowness of the water, the whole of this
neighbourhood is the favourite resort of immense
numbers of walruses, which animals delight in such
feeding places.

Igloolik, though in appearance an inconsiderable
spot, is a very important settlement to the Eski-
maux, who have no less than four fixed places of
residence upon it, to which, as the season alters,
they move in rotation ; independent of these, the
beaches in every direction bear marks of tents having
been pitched on them. The principal dwellings are
what we call the bone huts, of which I have so often
spoken. The natives term them, as well as the
whole island, Igloolik •, and Igloo being a house, the
huts may have been the means of naming the coun-
try. From Igloolik, as the summer advanced, and

44«

IGLOOLIK.

the inlet became clear, as we had seen about Au-
gust, all removed to a point near the Fury, and
the tents were pitched within circular walls of
rough stones, apparently built with some labour, and
having perhaps stood for ages. This spot, which we
called PamSes Point, from its having been the re-
sidence of one of our acquaintance, a great man, who
was named after Mr. Palmer, was by the natives
called Oong-a-loo-yay. In addition to the circles
within which the people lived, was one entirely set
apart for assemblies, when a whale was killed, or any
great and joyous occasion, in which the happy savages
met to sing and dance. This I considered as a piece
of Eskimaux antiquity ; and being the only thing of
the kind I ever saw in the country, I shall mention
its size : the surrounding wall was of large heavy
pieces of limestone, and about three feet in height;
the enclosed space about fifteen feet in diameter;
and at the foot of the wall, large square blocks of
lime, which three or four men would hardly lift,
were very regularly placed in an exact circle as a
bench ; the upper surface of these stones was worn
quite smooth, and in some places bore a polish, from
constant use ; in the centre of the place stood one
large stone, also worn, which appeared as if intended
as a seat for the dancer who is within the circle, to
rest upon.

Round a point west of the ships, and called Ar-
na-ko^-khtak, were several small tenting-places ; and
at the westernmost end of the island were four huts,

IGLOOLIK.

440

n about Au-
e Fury, and
lar walls of
e labour, and
lot, which we
been the re-
eat man, who

the natives
the circles
; entirely set
killed, or any
lappy savages
ed as a piece
only thing of
hall mention

large heavy
it in height;
n diameter;
ire blocks of

hardly lift,

circle as a
les was worn
polish, from
e stood one
s if intended

le circle, to

called Ar-
places; and
e four huts,

built of flat pieces of limestone, but I believe not
intended for a summer residence : one of these was
really very neatly constructed. The fourth place of
established residence was a small isthmus on the
northern side of the island, to which the natives
moved before the snow had yet left the ground;
this, about four miles across the land from Pamee's
Point, was named Kayak-tartoo.

In one, and perhaps more of the large lakes, small
trout were found ; ducks, geese, and other birds
flocked to this shore in the breeding season, but were
too much disturbed by us to make any long stay.
A long low island near Igloolik was famous on ac-
count of the immense flocks of brent-geese which
frequented it ; and the Eskimaux caught great num-
bers in the moulting season. The place, from Ner-
iSk, a brent-goosey was called Ner-Ie-nak-too.

Igloolik, or more properly the winter station of
the Hecla, is in 69** 20' 42" north latitude, and in
81° 40' 12" west longitude. Mr. Fisher's observa-
tory on shore was in latitude 69° 21', and longitude
81° 36' 34", west of Greenwich.

The early part of the 13th was very hazy ; but the
wind gradually increasing, at length came round to
the north-west. We now ran through the ice to the
southward, and at intervals saw the low land, in con-
tinuation of Alugnuk, west of us; by midnight we
had run fifty miles from Igloolik, and found ourselves

G G

4^0

NATIVES COME OFF.

oil* Ooglitt, a small low island, having two winter
huts on it: the wind now became light and vari-
able.

At three, a. m. of the 14th, three of our old ac-
quaintance came oflP in their canoes from the main
land, which at this part was named Ar-wik-khToo-n-
wik. We received these first visitors so well, and so
loaded them with presents, that we were speedily
visited by six more canoes, which were all treated in
the same manner; old Nannow was amongst the
others, and was the only one who did not beg : Tak-
kalikkita also came off; and while I was handing
him a present from our small boat, in which I was
sitting alone alongside, his canoe upset, by our having
too much way, and its getting broadside on. I had
great difficulty in extricating him, and his frail bark
filled instantly ; we, however, put all in order for him
again, and repaired his losses with interest.

We remained three weary days in the offing oft'
Ooglitt, with very variable and unfavourable weather;
fogs, rain, calms, and strong southerly winds, relieving
each other. The whole sea to the southward of us
was entirely filled with ice, through which we saw
no opening. A vast quantity of walruses were heard
grunting near us all the morning of the l6th, and one
of them drove undismayed alongside on apiece of ice ^
he was killed by a single ball, but sank before a boat
could be lowered. In the forenoon I tooki one boat,
and some officers another, and we each succeeded in
killing a .walrus. The herd from which we obtained

DRIFT OF THF. SHIP.

451

vo winter
and vari-

iir old ac-
the main
k-kliToo-H-
ell, and so
B speedily
treated in
longst the
beg: Tak-
iS handing
hich I was
our having
m. I had
3 frail bark
ier for him
t.
offing oft*
e weather;
.s, relieving
ward of us
eh we saw
were heard
th, and one
)iece of ice ^
ifore a boat
ii one boat,
icceeded in
ve obtained

these were nearly all females with their cubs; and
while chasing those which had been wounded with ball,
we observed the mothers holding their young between
their fore flippers, and pushing them forward when-
ever they were in danger of being overtaken. We
merely cut off^ the heads, and took some flesh and
the liver from our prizes, which were rather small
in size.

On the afternoon of the 18th, a short continuance
of light northerly wind enabled us to make a few miles
of southing, when we were again brought up by the
ice, off the edge of which we lay for three days more.
On the 22d, by taking advantage of a slack, we
ran a few miles to the southward, and were at last
beset. We passed AmTt-yoke. Remaining beset,
we drove with the ice to the southward, and at noon
on the 24th, were abreast of Cape Penrhynn. By
noon on the 25th, we had driven to abreast the
Barrow River — rain, calm, fog, as usual. Still beset
and driving, we found ourselves, on the 26th, about
ten miles to the northward of Cape Wilson. On
the morning of the 27th, a strong northerly breeze
sprung up, and we bored or forced our way amongst
some slack ice until evening, when we made fast to
a floe in shoal water, about five miles to the north of
Point Elizabeth : we had made about twenty miles
on this day, which was more than we had done for six-
teen days ; but in doing this, the ship received some
severe shocks, as the ice was very heavy, and the pieces

GG-2

453

DANCJER OF THE HECLA

generally lay a sufficient distance apart to allow of
tlic ship's getting great way before she struck them.
We had now for many days experienced tlie effects
of the same strong current, or set of tide from the
northward, which we had so much trouble in advancing
against during the last year. Now however it was
of great assistance, as we made the whole of our way
nnder its influence, the sea being closely packed with
heavy ice, which made eight or ten miles southing in
the twenty-four hours.

At 9 P. M. the whole body of ice began running
wildly together, and the strain against the ship was
very powerful. The floe by which we hung, soon
burst in pieces by the pressure of others, and we
went adrift at the mercy of the pack. In an hour
we fell alongside another large floe and got fast to
it, but this, like the former, soon broke. As the
ship was now driving very fast inshore, we unhung
the rudder, expecting soon to strike, having shoaled
oiir water rapidly from twenty-two to eleven fa-
thoms. A heavy pressure however swept us off
again, and by midnight we found ourselves driving
on Point Elizabeth, which was flat, and had a long
shoal off it. In a few minutes we shoaled our water
from twenty-four to seven fathoms, and were still
Hearing the point, past which the ice was running
very rapidly. As an experiment, we now made all sail,
the wind being fresh from N. and the rudder being
unhung, the ship could only go off free. This

WUILK DUUTlNCi Willi THE WE.

45a

succeeded, and wc deepened our water graduuily,
although the darkness prevented our seeing if we
were again running on to any otlier shoal point.
The quick whirling motion of the heavy floe pieces
helped us considerably, and the sails pushed us into
any openings which were made ; for after any very
severe shock the heavy ice separated for a few mo-
ments before it acquired fresh motion ; and thus in
about two hours, and by a few feet at a time, we
got about a mile from the danger. The ship
seldom complained, or cracked so much on any
other occasion as on this night, but she received no
injury.

By eight a. m. on the 28th we were six miles
to the southward of Point Elizabeth, still close beset
and driving with the ice. At noon, being twenty
nn'les to the northward of Winter Island, we saw its
highest hills from the deck. A whale came up
alongside, and remained for some time. During the
night we drove round the point off Adderley's Bluif
into the deep bight to the northward of Winter
Island, ship still beset. On the morning of the
29th Turton's Shoals lay about three miles inshore
of us, and in the course of the day we neared con-
siderably two small islands, which lay off the N. E.
extremity of Winter Island. In the afternoon we ob-
served the officers of the Fury, which was a mile or two
north of us, on the ice, firing at a bear, but the animal
made off. In the evening he came to the Hecla, and
continued reconnoitring us for about half an hour,

DANCiUUS U|- TIIK SHU'S

u little out of rifle distniice. This was u small, but
at the .same time the henviest animal of the kind we
had ever seen, its haunches being f'onned like those
of a very ftit pi{^, and its belly of a great size.

During the night we were swept out of the
strength of the tides, and lay not above a mile from
the northernmost of the two islands. We continued
all day of the 30th to drive very slowly into the
opening between them ; and a little before daybreak
on the 31 st found ourselves moving quickly through
the narrowest part, which is about three quarters of
a mile. When it was light we had opened our view
a little, having passed about 300 yards from the
outer island, and 100 yards from a low rock off it.
The soundings were very regular, from thirty to
eighteen fathoms ; but the ice had considerable mo-
tion, and heavy pieces lay aground on each side of
us. When clear of the islands, the rush of tide set
us about two miles into the offing, directly for a
large shoal, on which heavy ice was thrown up, and
past which the other ice was running at alcove a
knot. We were carried within half a cable's length
of the outer edge of the shoal, and from thirty to
thirteen fathoms water. Two hours elapsed before
we drove out of the slack water caused by the shoal,
and we then floated quickly along the coast of Winter
Island. At noon we had the satisfaction of seeing
that the Fury had passed safely through the passage
between the islands, and was also clear of the shoal.
By three p. m. we rounded Cape Fisher, off which

Willi. K DUIVINC; WITH TIIK UK.

555

iK'iivy ice was j^imijikIihI, and were soon liunied past
our old winter quarteri*, wliicli were closely packed.
Wc had a good view of tlie graves of our three
people, and were }ia])py to ohbcrvc them untouched
by the natives whom we had left here, and wlio
might Iiave been tempted to open them to search for
wood or iron. The Fury remaining stationary with
the ice oil' Cape Fisher for about an hour, Captain
Parry sent three ofliecrs on shore to examine the
graves, &c. At their return they brought with
them radishes, mustard and cress, and onions, from
our gardens, which had survived a winter and were
still alive, seventeen months from the time they were
planted. This was a very remarkable proof of their
having been preserved by the covering of snow.

We had now been nineteen days coming from
Igloolik, and had been carried three degrees entirely
at the mercy of the ice. In no part of our voyage,
even at the commencement of winter, had we been
kept in such a state of constant suspense and
anxiety as to the fate of the ships ; for we were car-
ried into every bight, and swept over each point
without the power of helping ourselves ; and had we
struck, our fate would in all human probability have
been decided.

During the night we saw the aurora very bright
over Winter Island. It was remarkable that we
should have seen it so seldom and faintly at Igloolik,
and tliat now again, we should, on returning to
Winter Island, find it as brilliant as we had been

45()

IN I.YON INLKT.

uccustomed to see it at the same place two years
before. The nights were now very cold, long, and
dark, and the sea froze thickly when not agitated.

On the 1st of September at daylight we made
all sail, and forced the ship a little farther from the
land. We lost sight of the Fury, which was carried
round Cape Fisher; while in the mean time we drove
along the N. W. shore of the island, very close to
the grounded ice. Soon after noon the southerly
wind drove us directly for the beach, and at about a
cable's length from it we had fifteen fathoms water.
After four p. m. we moved slowly ofF again, and there
remained about half a mile from the rocks. At
night the wind changed suddenly to the eastward,
and blew very strong on shore. We sent down top-
gallant yards and struck the masts, driving broadside
on for the beach ; when about 400 yards from it, the
ice within us brought us up in sixteen fathoms. On
the 2nd, we again drew off and moved slowly to the
eastward. We now, with an easterly wind, bored to
the southward for a short distance, and by this
means, and by the set of the tide, got about four miles
to the S. W. of Cape Fisher, deepening our water to
fifty fathoms. In the evening we began to drive up
Lyon Inlet, and a very thick fog came on with a
strong N. E. wind. We were however in 103
fathoms; but by eleven we shoaled suddenly to
twenty-four, without knowing where we had driven.
The weather was very thick and raw, and a great
quantity of ice formed on the rigging.

DEATH or MR. FIFE.

4.51

By one a. m. on the 3rd we again deepened our
soundings to forty-nine fathoms, still driving up the
inlet. At daylight the frig cleared away a little, and
we saw the Fury near us ; we also obtained an in-
distinct view of the land, and perceived that we were
in mid channel. During the v^hole day and night we
still drove up the inlet, a fresh N. E. breeze blowing,
and no change in the ice. Soundings above 130
fathoms, rather more than a mile from the southern
shore. At daylight on the 4th a very light air came
on from the N. W. but against this we still drove to
the westward.

During the 5th we remained nearly as high up
the inlet as Five Hawser Bay. Winds very light
and variable. No change in the ice.

At day-break on the 6th a breeze sprung up from
the N. W., and in the course of the day we forced
the ship as far down as to within three or four miles
of Winter Island. It then fell calm. At three
p. M. Mr. George Fife, Greenland master, departed
this life. He had long been affected by the scurvy,
and the remedies which were necessarily admini-
stered reduced him so low that he expired from
mere exhaustion. We had for several days been in
suspense as to what turn his complaint might take,
and, though we had some hopes of him, his death
was not wholly unexpected. He was himself per-
fectly aware of his approaching end, and after settling
all his worldly affairs, resigned himself to his fate with
greater composure than I had ever before witnessed.

•Is58

MH, kii'JOs cask.

*-^pf*'.

I"^;.

Ill liini perished the father of a larj^e llimily, wlu)
depeiuled entirely on his exertions for support ; and
all his sliipnuites felt the most sincere regret at his
loss. He was an old and experienced seaman, a most
valnable and nseful officer, as well as a steady and
highly respectable man.

There were circumstances attending the illness of
Mr. Fife, which should act as an example and warn-
ing to all persons employed on such expeditions as
ours. He was a very large man, of a full habit
of body, and when in health weighed about ^40
pounds; his age about forty. From his boyhood he
had been constantly accustomed to hard work at sea ;
but having no duty during our long winters, he ceased
taking any exercise, rarely went on deck, and was
vciy averse to such antiscorbutics as were served to
us tUI. He did not at the time feel any ill effects
from his sedentary life, but eveiy one warned him of
continuing it, foreseeing what would be the conse-
quences. Having thus passed two long winters with
impunity, in this last spring his limbs became hard
and swollen, and his gums greatly inflamed. These
circumstances he concealed, from a feeling of shame,
for the space of a fortnight, at the end of which time he
became very ill, and took in a great measure to his
bed. The necessary antiscorbutics were constantly
administered, but his aversion to acids did away in a
ffreat measure with their effect. In two months his
disorder abated a little, though lie was veiy much weak-
ened, and during the last week the scurvy had almost

A DOG FOUND ON TlIK ICK.

45<)

left liiin, his h^s and <;iuiis \mn^ nearly well, yet
he continued sinkinjij, and died at last without a
strupfgle.

The morning of the 7th brought us no change,
unless it was from a calm to a light air directly
against us, by which we again drove up the inlet.
In the afternoon the tide set us down again, and
close round a point to the left of Ho])pner's Strait,
which had several shoals with heavy grounded ice oft*
it. While amongst these, the ice became stationary,
and we lay all night within a cable's length of two or
three of them, alongside which we had the satisfaction
of finding four and five fathoms water.

During the day we had heard pei'petual barking
and howling at the point, and in the evening
saw a poor dog on the ice some distance from
the land; after dark it found its way alongside, and
was caught. It was reduced to a skeleton, having
probably been adrift and starving for some time. A
continued howling being heard on the shore, wc
suspected that some Eskimaux were near us, but
none were visible. They were probably strangers, or
would otherwise have seen and come to hail the ship ;
besides this, the new dog did not appear acquainted
with any of ours, which would have been the case had
she come from Igloolik.

At daylight on the 8th we still continued amongst
the shoals, wind easterly. In the forenoon we drove
about a cable's length off the outer shoal, in nine
fathoms, and then committed the body of our de-

4()0

•nil!: siiii's DuivK out

\k^.

t'casccl shipmate to tlio tlccp. The afteniooti tide
brouglit us again to within the ship's length of the
outer shoal in seven fathoms, and we lay in eon-
siderable anxiety, until the breeze freshening, we
drove off, and all sail being set, were swept slowly up
the inlet, but still very close to the shore. Just be-
fore dark we secured the ship to a good-sized Hoc,
and passed a tolerably quiet night, during which it
rained very hard, and a thick fog set in.

At daylight on the 9th, the fog clearing for a few
minutes, we found ourselves about two cables' length
from a very steep rocky beach, but the weather soon
became as thick as ever : wind easterly and light.
The floe by which we were hanging turned us in-
sliore of it twice, but we again warped round to its
outer edge. We continued the whole day about a
cpuirter of a mile from the rocks, and at night-fall the
floe drove directly on for the shore, when we suc-
ceeded in warping to another, which took us into
twenty-eight fathoms. This last piece of ice being
in the set of the tide, held its own, and by daylight
on the 10th we found open water inshore of us ; into
this we made sail, and ran three or four miles up the
inlet to near the Fury, which was very distant : we
then, on finding the ice closing, ran as before into
the pack. At night a north-east gale set in, and we
found the whole body of ice setting slowly down the
inlet.

By tlie morning of the 11th the wind came round
to the northward ; the ice continued setting slowly

Ol-' LVON INr.KT.

401

out all day, hut towards evening began to run very
rapidly. As \vc were unable to get into the heart of
the pack, we drove the whole way close to the shore,
and passed the shoals off which we lay on the 7tb
and 8th, at about a cable's length distance, ine run-
ning two knots. During the night we drove along
Winter Island, and at daybreak on the 12th were
about three miles to the westward of Cape Fisher.
W'e continued to drive rapidly to the southward all
day, although the wind slackened, and came round
to the westward. No water was seen in any direction.
The Fury having been several miles higher up the
inlet than the Hecla, was much later in getting out of
the in-draught ; but before night we had the pleasure
of seeing her off Cape M*Laren, although about
fifteen miles distant from us. We were now in the
offing, at least fifteen miles from any land, and very
tightly beset. It is quite out of my power to describe
the extreme satisfaction we all felt on finding our-
selves at length clear of the inlet, where the ship had
been continually in danger, from which no human
exertion could have extricated her. In fact, during
the last twelve days we had suffered more anxiety and
trouble than in the whole course of the voyage ; and,
for my own part, I would instantly have preferred
being frozen up during another eleven months winter
to passing again so anxious a period of time.

Ten of the twelve nights were passed on deck in
expectation eacli tide of some decided change in our
affairs, either by being left on the rocks,or grounding in

462

OPEN WATER SEEN,

iS*..

such shoal water that the whole body of ice must have
slid over us. But, as that good old seaman Baffin
expresses himself, " God, which is greater than either
ice or tide, always delivered us."

In the course of the 13th and 14th we drove down
past Vansittart Island, and saw Southampton Island.
The Fury had been slowly nearing us all this time,
and now by signal ordered, that the extra provisions,
&c. we had began to serve out, should be stopped ; a
precaution rendered very necessary by our prospects
of detention.

On the 15th, the Fury neared us to within about
three miles. In the evening we saw a considerable
quantity of open water from the masthead in the
south-east. Fife Rock was also seen five or six miles
to the southward. The wind had now been from
the north-westward for three days ; the nights were
very cold, and the sludge-ice was formed so thick
every night, as in many places to bear a man ; so that
the pack in which we lay was in a manner cemented
together.

All hands were constantly employed during the
l6th in endeavouring to turn the ship's head to the
eastward, but without being able to move her. Mr.
Geo. Crauford, Greenland mate of the Fury, having
on the 7th been appointed to fill Mr. Fife's vacancy
as Greenland master, now joined us by walking over
the ice from the Fury, a distance of nearly two miles.
I received by him letters, &c. from Captain Pai-ry,
and learnt that all were well in his ship. At 5 a. m.

AND AN OFFING MADE.

463

on the 17tli we again began working, and after three
liours turned the ship's head. At 9 twenty men
came over the ice to assist us, and in ten hours we
warped, and sailed into the open water, which had
been about two miles from us : here the Fury was
waiting for us, and we made all sail with a fair wind
and clear sea for the Trinity Islands. We had now
been thirty-five days beset, and in that period had
driven with the ice above three hundred miles with-
out any exertion on our part, and also without a
possibility of extricating ourselves. We had by this
means abundant proof of the strong and continual
set from the northward, and the impossibility of a
ship making any way against it, unless, as in our
case ill 1822, she started before the land ice had se-
parated from the shore j by this she might warp or
hold as occasion required, if strong enough to resist
the great pressure to which our two ships were then
subjected. Until we were driven up Lyon Inlet, our
daily drift was from eight to ten miles, whatever
quarter the wind was blowing from. After clearing
the inlet, we drove to abreast of Southampton Island
at the same rate.

We ran all night east-south-east, and made seventy
miles by noon of the 18tb. With a light but still
favourable breeze, we continued our course, and I
passed the day on board the Fury with Captain
Parry. As the Trinity Isles were not above twenty-
five miles distant at dark, we lay to until 3 a. m. on
the UHli, when we again made sail. By 8 a. m. we

464

PASSAGE DOWN HUDSON'S STRAIT.

U<i-

\l:

were some miles beyond the islands, and abreast the
centre of Nottingham Ishmd. Favourable weather
continued, and still running east-south-east, by noon
of the 20th we had made a hundred and ten miles
in the twenty-four hours ; an amazing progress for
people who had for above two years considered twenty
miles in the same period as a subject of great ex-
ultation. As we now considered ourselves in the
fair way, we made preparations for crossing the At-
lantic, by hoisting in and breaking up our waste
boats, which were old and unseiTiceable, getting the
spike plank on board, and bending large courses,
reaving sea ropes, &c.

In the evening we saw the land, distant, and east-
south-east : it was, as I supposed, the bluff above the
Upper Savage Island. We also discovered a large
berg, which was a novelty, and the first piece of ice
seen since we quitted the pack on the 17th, a longer
period of open water than we had ever met with since
the Nautilus left us. .• **

As we were now above halfway down the strait, a
good look out was kept for the Hudson's Bay ships,
this being their general time of returning ; apd it may
be imagined, that after twenty-nine months absence
from civilized man, we were very anxious to obtain
news of old England.

We continued running four and five knots with a
South-easterly wind all the 21st and 22nd. On the
forenoon of the 2Srd we made, and in the evening
passed. Resolution Island, at about mid-channel be-

CROSSING THE ATLANTIC.

465

twceii it and Button's Islands; before dark we were
in the offing and swell of the Atlantic. During the
last two or three days we saw several bergs, but no
other ice ; and passing near one, picked up some solid
blocks, which were stowed away as presents for our
friends at home, to cool their wine.

The breeze moderated towards evening of the
2 1th. Nothing could be more delightful than the
change of temperature we now began to experience ;
the air and water at noon were 40°, and fell but
little lower during the night. Numerous flocks of
mallemuks and kittiwakes hovered round us all day ;
and being now new to us, as none had been seen
since July, 1821, enlivened the scene very much.

With variable but favourable winds, we continued
to lay our course, and average above 120 miles a day;
one or two sharp gales, with very heavy sea, set in
from the south-eastward, but the wind soon went
down again. In the blowing weather, we had an
excellent opportunity of observing how the Hecla
behaved ; and it was agreed by all, that her qualities
as a good sea boat were established ; we rolled very
deep, but so easy, as on no occasion to give any ap-
prehension of her carrying away any of her spars.

On the 7th October, during a short calm, I spent
a few hours with Captain Parry, and received such
instructions as were requisite in case he should leave
the ships as soon as we made the land. On the
8th, a heavy S. E. gale blew all day, and brought
us under main-topsail and foresail j but in the even-

H H

4G6

AIUIIVAL AND HOSPITABLE

li^

il.-

ing it subsided, leaving a very uneasy sea; on this
day we saw a galliot, which crossed us at a few miles ;
and our beiijg once more in a frequented track, was
a great satisfaction to us. On the morning of the
9th, we saw an English ship a few miles to the north-
ward of us, which appeared to have lost some of
her yards during the recent gale. In the forenoon
we made the land of Orkney, having only been
three weeks in running from the ice off South-
ampton Island, and sixteen days from Resolution
Island 'y an amazingly speedy and no less desirable
passage, as two-thirds of our way was run without
our having had a single gale. On this forenoon,
both ships exercised their guns, in order to have every
thing in readiness in case of a war ; for although our
force was insignificant, we were yet sufficiently strong
to resist any small privateers; and with respect to
foreign men of war, we felt confident that they would
not molest us. As we did not intend, in any case, to
act otherwise than on the defensive, we were now as
well prepared as we could possibly be ; but hoping,
for the good and happiness of our country, that all
the world were still at peace. A signal was made at
noon, for the officers to prepare their documents to
be delivered up, agreeably to the Admiralty orders,
by noon on the morrow. The strong southerly wind
continued all night, and at one, a. m. on the 10th,
we passed Fair Island, between Orkney and Shet-
land J we then bore up for Lerwick, in Shetland, at
which port we arrived and anchored at noon.

UECEPTION AT SHETLAND.

Here ceases the regular journal of our voyage j
and while I feel the extreme difficulty of describing
our reception in our own country, I rejoice in being
able to pay a just tribute of gratitude to the inhabit-
ants of Lerwick, in particular, for their unparalleled
hospitality towards us. The entire population, dressed
in their best clothes, received us on our arrival with
repeated cheers ; at night, the whole town, even to
the most miserable cottage, was thickly illuminated,
tar barrels were burnt in every street, while cheer-
ing and rejoicing continued throughout the night;
every door was open to us, and all whom we met
proffered us compliments and sincere offers of service.
To describe the effect this produced on our feelings
would be impossible : the sudden burst of news for
two years and a half, the glorious accounts of the
happy state of our country, the sight of civilized
man, with our own emotions at having been spared to
return home again, — were most painfully delightful.

On the Sunday forenoon, the officers of both ships,
and as many men as could be spared, attended the
church seiTice, when the venerable Mr. Menzies
gave us a most excellent discourse. This worthy
divine oflPered up for us two such prayers and thanks-
givings as can never be forgotten ; and while doing
so, his own feelings were such as frequently to stop
his utterance ; the whole congregation was in tears,
as if rendering thanks for the return of their nearest
relatives, instead of perfect strangers as we were.
Insensible indeed must have been the heart of any

I !

ARRIVAL IN THE TIUMKH.

one of 118 wliicli was not overflowing with gratitude
to the Almighty and protecting God, who had carried
us in safety through so many dangers.

llie wind ceased during the night, and on tlie
morning of the 13th, came round from the north-
ward ; at noon we weighed, and, accompanied by all
the gentlemen of the place, sailed from the port :
our friends left us, when we discharged our pilots,
under three hearty cheers ; and with a fair wind we
ran for the coast of England. On the l6th. Captain
Parry landed at Whitby, and his Majesty's ships
Fury and Hecla made for the Thames, which we
entered on the 21st, after an absence of two years
and a half.

THE END.

LONDON:

PRIMTSO BT THOMAS DATISOH, WHITBFRIARS.

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