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 1 2 3 
 
 1 2 3 
 
 4 5 6 
 
 32X 
 
TH 
 
 ORJ 
 
NARRATIVE 
 
 Of 
 
 THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION 
 
 TO 
 
 THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS 
 
 IN THE YEAR 1842. 
 
 AND TO 
 
 OREGON AND NORTH CALIFORNIA 
 
 'in the years 1843-44, 
 
 BY 
 
 COLONEL J^br'TREMONT, 
 
 HEPRINTED FROM THE OFFICIAL COT/. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 D. APPLETON AND gOMPANY, 
 
 346 & 848 BKOADWAY. 
 M.DCCC.LVI. 
 
I On the 
 ■ypar 1817 
 expoilition 
 western p! 
 pa<fi(!(l by 
 ti(in of Iwi 
 of the Re 
 Orcfioii III 
 tcrialrt coll 
 oxpeilitioii 
 til on exist i 
 Mr. Chavl 
 and secoi 
 commence 
 On my 
 month of ! 
 closely en 
 Senate hi 
 time to th 
 the time t 
 gagemcnt 
 last cxpe 
 Cciiceivin 
 fornia wu: 
 ing iinpoi 
 to its pre 
 condition 
 the Senat 
 In layi 
 California 
 to show t 
 the work, 
 on as cor 
 or other i 
 ral, and 
 known. 
 
 In exti 
 side of t 
 base of tl 
 ocean, an 
 the gulf 
 on the ! 
 Britain, a 
 
r 
 
 GEOGllAPIIICAL xAIEMOIR. 
 
 On the spcond dny of Fohniary, in tlio 
 year 1817, diirin^r my absctice on my third 
 expodition of topoijraijhitMl i^iirvoy, in the 
 ! wost(trn part of this continent, a rcsolvo was 
 I pass(!d i)y iho Senate directini,' tiio constnic- 
 : tion of two maps — one of tiio eentral scetion 
 of the Rocky mountains, and the other of 
 Orci;on and Upper Cahfornia — from liie ma- 
 terials collected by me in tlio two previous 
 expeditions, and with the additions which tlie 
 then exislinir expedition mijiht fnrnisli ; and 
 Mr. Charles Prenss, my assistaiit in the lirst 
 and second expeditions, was emjiloyed to 
 connnenco the work. 
 
 On my retin'n to tlio United States, in the 
 month of September last, 1 found .Mr. I'rcuss 
 closely enijaged >ipon the work on which the 
 Senate had employed liim ; and, from that 
 time to the present, I have myself given all 
 the time that could be spared from other en- 
 gagements to supply the additions which the 
 last expedition has enabled me to make. 
 Conceiving that the maj) of Oregon and Cali- 
 fornia was of the most immediate and ])ress- 
 ing importJUice, I first dirccied my attention 
 to its preparation, in order to bring it into a 
 condition as soon ,as possible to be laid before 
 the Senate ; which is now done. 
 
 In laying this map of Oregon and Upper 
 California before the Semite, 1 deem it proper 
 to show the extent and general character of 
 the work, and how far it may bo (iejjendod 
 on as correct, as being founded on my own 
 or other surveys, and how far it is conjectu- 
 ral, and only presented as the best that is 
 known. 
 
 In extent, it embraces the wliole western 
 side of this continent between the eastern 
 ba.se of the Koiky mountains and the Pacific 
 ocean, and brlwciMi the straits of Fiica and 
 the gulf of California, taking for its outline, 
 on the north, the Imundary line with tireat 
 Britain, and on the south, including the bay 
 
 ; of San Diego, the head of the gulf of Call- 
 
 lornia, the rivers Colorado and Gila, and all 
 
 the country through which the line of the 
 
 '. late treaty with Mexico would run, from El 
 
 Pdsn del \:)r/e to the sea. To complete the 
 
 i view in that rpiarter, the valley of the Rio 
 
 I d(d Norte is added, from the head of the river 
 
 i to HI I'aso del Norte, thereby including New 
 
 ; Mexico. The rnap has been constructi'd ex- 
 
 I pressly to exhibit the two countries of Ore- 
 
 f^'on and the Alta California together. It h 
 
 , believed to be the most correct that has ap- 
 
 ; peared of either of them ; and it is certainly 
 
 I the only one that shows the structure and 
 
 conliguration of the interior of Upper Cali- 
 
 I fornia. 
 
 The part of the Tiap which exhibits Ore- 
 gon is chiefly copied from the works of others, 
 but not entirely, my own explorations in that 
 territory having e,\tended to nearly two thou- 
 .sand miles. The part which exhibits Cali- 
 fornia, and especially the Great Uasin, the 
 I Sierra Nevada, the beautiful valley of Sacra- 
 mento and San Joacpiin, is chiefly from my 
 I own surveys or personal view, and in sucli 
 ] ca.ses is given as correct. Where my own 
 ! observations did not extend, the best autliori- 
 i lies have been followed. 
 
 The profile view in the margin, on the 
 north side of the map, exhibits the elevations 
 of the country from the .S'o;///i Pass in the 
 Rocky mountains to the bay of San Fran- 
 risco, passing the Utah and the Great Salt 
 lake, following the river Humboldt throuch 
 the northern side of the Great IJasin, cross- 
 ing the Sierra Nevada into the valley of the 
 Sacramento, where the emigrant road now 
 crosses that sierra forty miles north of Xueva 
 Helvetia. This line shows the present tra- 
 velling route to California. The prolile on 
 the south side of the map exhibits the eleva- 
 tions of the country on a difP'rent line — the 
 line of exploration in the last expedition — 
 
GKOCUAIIIK Al, Ml Moll; 
 
 fj'.iin l!ic lii'iid of thi' Arlviiisa- hy the I'liili 
 Slid S:ill l.il((', and iIiimipJi ihi' intrriorol llj.' 
 (I'rcat Ha-iii. ('riissiiii_' till' Sii'rr.i Nevada into 
 tlir Sacrami'iilo valley a1 llii' li'^ad i<( llie 
 Rill il' Ids .\ w;"/r(//ii/.v. 'l'li('sf> ]irotil(> views 
 arc yivcn inercly t'er lli(<ir iniHiws. to show 
 llio sinii'tiire of the coinitry between the 
 I{o('l;v iiioinitains and tlie sea. and llie li-e 
 and tall oi'ca>ioned liy iiioiiiilains and \alley.-. 
 I'"nll an<l di\--cri|ilivc' in-oH'e views on a lariie 
 scale are wanted, niarkin:.' Ilie ^eoln^ical 
 ,-l met lire of the country, .md exeihilin;: at 
 their |ii'o|i('r altitude's the ihlleren! products 
 of till' vejretalilt^ kingdom. Some material 
 is already collertcil fir such n piir|io('. ex- ' 
 leiidinjr on ditrerei!' Iii\ps from the Mis<is- ■ 
 ^i||pi to thi' I'acilic. lint not sulllcient. to com- , 
 plele tlie v.ork. 
 
 'I'iie Arahie li'.rures ow diflerent parts of I 
 llie map indicat" the elevation of places above j 
 the level of th' sea; a know!c(li.re ol' \vhi(di 
 is essential to a just conception of lla^ climate j 
 and a)_n'icidtural capacities ol' a country. i 
 
 'I'he lonL!itndes eslalili.-hiMl on. fin' line of 
 exploration o\ the last expedition are based 
 on a series of astronomical <iliservalions, resf- 
 inii' on lour main positions, deternuned bv 
 hniar cnhuinations. The lirst, of these main 
 jiositions is at tiie moulh of the Fmitahir (/iii 
 lidtiit river, on the Upper Arkansas ; the se- 
 cond is on the eastern shore of the Great 
 Sail lake, and two in tlu? valley of the Sacra- 
 mento, at the western bas^ cif the Sierra Ne- 
 vada. Thi«; line of astronomic.d oh:-er\ations. 
 tints carried across the continent, reaches the 
 I'acitic, ocean on thu northern shore of the 
 ijay of Monterey. 
 
 In my luihlislied map. of the year ISl.'i. 
 :'•.(■ line of the western coast was laid down 
 ..■■cordiniT to Vanciuiver. \Vheii the newly 
 "stabhshed jiositions were |)laced on the map 
 i>ow laid bctbre the Senate, it was found that 
 they carried the line of the const about I'our- 
 tceii miles W(>st, and the valleys of the Sa- 
 cramento and San Joaipiin about twenty 
 miles east ; makinir an increase of more than 
 thirty miles in the breadth of the country 
 below the Sierra Nevada. Upon examina- 
 tion, it was lound that these positions aert'ei!. 
 nearly, with the oljservatinns of ('ai)iiiiii 
 IJeeciiey, at Monterey. 'i'lu- corrections 
 reijuired by the new ])ositions were then 
 accordinii'ly u'.ado ; the basin of the Sacrri- 
 nienio aiai San .Itiaijuin valleys was removed 
 to the eastward, and the line of the coast 
 jirojecled iarllier we.-t, conformably to my 
 observations, retainini; the coiilifruration 
 ijiven to it by the surveys of Vai?8ouver. 
 
 The error iii the position of the San .loa- 
 (]i;;ii. Sacramento, and VN'aldahnialh valleys 
 still exists upiiu the niost authentic maps ex- 
 tant ; and it iippeai.< that, upon the charts in 
 <Tei|i;nd use, a ereatly erroneous position is 
 still triven to the coast. 
 
 I!\ thr rrliiii; ' \ t . ■ Ui.ited Slate- sloop- 
 oi-v,ir l'.'il-i,.o til. ( 'i iiini:nid''r Mirr.l;:'i!ri- 
 
 ery. IpMil Ire I';' i;i( ..n. i' is Irailli'ii thai 
 
 \\\ti llriti-h -iMp- ol war are now ( nua^ed 
 in n;: l.iu:; a new ^l,;■^ v of the i^\u{ aur! 
 Cua-I ol ('aliliirni.i. It is al.-o known thai 
 an Ameriran w liih' >hip was rrc.'iills In--' cu 
 1 1,1' c'l.'i-l of ( ' !|i:cii ni:' in <■■ i:i.-"ipii'n!'i' of the 
 eri'or- in the liiarls \\i,\\ in ^'.iieril um'. lor-.- 
 I:u2 the coa-! uuil i-'ands, iVniu .M'lnler;', 
 south, to.i far ea^t.' 
 
 'J'hr a.-lroneihical oh.-ervalions made bv iue 
 .■u'n:.-s tlie coiitiiii e.l. in this my third expe- 
 dition, wi're cah uli'.Iiil by I'rolc-si'r Jlub- 
 bard. of llie nalional ob~f r\ a'ory. (\\'a-h;)i;;- 
 ton v\\\.) durin'j the pre.'nt winter; and a 
 note from him on tlie ^nll|e(t of llcse nii-i'v- 
 vatioiH i^ adiii-d as an appendix to this 
 memoir. .M\ att<'ut;on ha\in;r been recently 
 called to this sub|i el. (the true |lo^ilion ol 
 the coa~t of Calilornia.) I find it worlhv of 
 remark, that the position "ivi'ii lo this coa.-l 
 on the ciiarts of ihr nld Spanish navijiators 
 au'rei's nearly witii that which would be as- 
 sien.'d to it by the ob.-ervalions of the nio.-l 
 eminent naval surveyors of the |H-esent da). 
 'J'he ]M'-ition adopted for .Monterey anil tin' 
 adjacent co,-i>!, on the map now laid lielor ■ 
 the Senate, a;jie('s nearly with that in w hit ! 
 it bad been placed by the observations o) 
 Midii>i'lu(i,\ in IT'.tl. 
 
 In eonstructinu' this map it became nece-- 
 sarv to adopt the coast line of the I'acilic. a- 
 tounil ill map- in 'S' ui'ral use. to nive i' cou;- 
 [ilet'ues-. Il wa- no part of mv de.-i;'n 1" 
 make a chari of t!i" coasl. Findinii' an errrr 
 when 1 ci:i;.i' to lay down tiie liay of .Monl'- 
 rev. 1 al'i'red iiiv map to suit it. I knew 
 nothing:' tin n of anv errors in the coa-t. 
 It i^ s.-ili- factory now lo liml tliat my astro- 
 nomical obsi ;'\aiions correspond with iho-i' 
 previoii>lv made bv Bi'echey and lielchei, 
 anil \erv L'ratifviiiLr to be able to add soiu' 
 testimonial lo the correctness of those maif' 
 bv .Malaspina lona before either of theiii. 
 Vancouxcr removed the coa.-l line as ll\.?d 
 bv Malaspina. ;uid the subsequent obser\;i- 
 tioiin carry i! bark. 
 
 * Na\ Al. — Tlf t'liili-'i Sl-ilc* ^!ii i|ror \v,ir r''lIsinolilI; 
 CiiTiiiii in.lcr J.iliii II. MiiiH:; iih'iy. M'rn.il .-i' Kd-iiin i i 
 
 I-'ihl.-iv. rioinl]"' I'-i'ili''! ail lit^t t'limi \'alM;ir;ii-(). ti li 
 
 rv:v.\ '-':l. I', ii;iii:iii i.'i .Mull'.- ly hlalisllial llli' DmiiIi 
 
 tn-.iir "li. -.ill!," .i;,.! llK- 111:; " l';un!iir;i," ii'f in 
 '2:\z- ! ill in:iklli_' a lu'w Mlrvi-y nl' tin' ^'illt' unit c'(Ki.-t ut* 
 l'niil..r:.ia. 
 
 'I'l.t' \\i,;ili' >l'.i|i " It'|,(\'' nC l'ro\ l;it'iu-L'. wa* v 
 I'er.tK If. I (111 till' loii-t. in i-iiii-.'.mii'H't ol' an i-rroi in tlu- 
 l-iiait., liiiw HI si-ni'ial ilM'. wlihli I 'i-atL' llii' ooa>Is ami 
 islaiiiU tiiiiii .Monti .'--V in Cai'i' Si, I. in. is fioii, lil'ti'i-n 'ti 
 i'.y.\\ iiiilii luo tar to lia.' la-Usaril. — .Valiolhi/ lnt<f// 
 I'mr-r. 
 
 - I 'i' I'll- .^niH'iil, iiil ri'i'i.i. ami iint rlnnaa' imvj::alijr. 
 Miilrl'olui .'l.-«.i\ on .X,\v Sjiaiil .-ay> ; 
 
 ■■ 'ri, ' !M:',hai lu'jt 111' III. ixi'i liiiiuii r ii-i-l. not oriiv 
 111 ihu ntiiiiii ■. ol asamiomii-al oli^TVation^. but pniii;! 
 pallv miia- iii,lii-ion> nn^'linl wl.lili wa. I'liiplou-il to ^i: 
 iivi'iit i-.T'aiii nmlu Till. !oi.L'iliiilo an.! la'ilinlc of loni 
 
 )ioiii'=: on tl o:i<l 't'api' San lait-a,, .Alinitirt'v . Nooiki. 
 
 Mill I'u't iVlui.'iaM wi.t li.\i.'il Ml an ali.-iilutii iiiiilili^T. 
 
'I' li.M I'l.ill'il SlllllV- .-~lfM)],- 
 
 ili. < 'liUiiii.niil^T Mmit;: ';ii- 
 ' ',','ir <■' .'.in. i^ is li';u lii'i! lll:ll 
 
 I- I'l \\:'.r iiii' now ( ii'.:iij:"il 
 
 li.i. It i-i :il.-ii kiinwii \\r,A 
 
 :\\f >hi]l \V;iS I'lC.'lills 111--' ell 
 
 iniiii.'' ill (■■i:i.;"i|Ui'ii!T i<( llir 
 
 II- ImW ill ^vipT.il i\~r. lor-.. 
 111(1 irl;lllll.-, rrnlll MmIiIiM;', 
 
 ical o!i.-cr\Mlions iimdi' liv mr^ 
 iiriil, in this my tliiiil r.\|ii'- 
 i uhiliil l.y I'n'ilc-^M'i- lliih- 
 Dlliil (ili~f r\;i'nry. ( ^\',■l■-ll::l;;- 
 tll^ pre ■■ii! wiiiliT : jiiil a 
 
 1 l!li' ^■llll|l'( t III' lll"Si' iiil.-iT- 
 
 il lis nil ii|i|>i'iii!ix to lliis 
 ti'illidll liii\ili;r ln'cii vcc(Mi!ly 
 i!i|i el. (llir tnu' |iiisili(i:i o; 
 liluriii;i.) 1 liiiil it. wiirlhy lu' 
 posiiimi j;ivi'll Id this c'oii.-l 
 till' dill S|iaiiisii iiavi^iiilnis 
 til that wiiicii wiiiilil lie iis- 
 10 oli.-i'ivaliiiiis dl' tlid ino.-t 
 iirvi'Vdis III' till.' |iri'sent da) . 
 ii|iii'(l fur .Mdiili'iTv ami tiir 
 ill till' iiia|) iidW laid lii'lor' 
 cs nearly with that in whir!, 
 c.'il liv the iiliscrvatidiis ul 
 I7!U. ' 
 
 ;; this iiKi)! it hri'anii' iiori'-- 
 
 ' cnast line of tlir I'ai-ilir. a- 
 
 2'l IU'l'ai llsr. Id nivc i< I'dli;- 
 
 a- lid |)ai'l ol' iiiv (li'siL'.n !.■ 
 till' cdasl. Fiiidiita- an iTii i' 
 lay down tiif iJay of Mdiil'- 
 
 IV nia|) to Piiit it. I hiM'w 
 ! aiiv i.Tidi's in tlip (Mii-t. 
 
 V iidw Id lind that my jistVd- 
 lidiis I'drrcspdiid with ihd-" 
 > hy Bdcclicy and lii'lclii.'i, 
 .■iiiir to 111' !il)k' to add sdiiii' 
 [■ corroclness of those niadi' 
 my: helore either of tlii-ni. 
 dved the coast line as lixi.'d 
 ml tlie siihseqiienl ol)sei'\;i- 
 
 liili'<i Sl-ilc* ^!ii'i|r<)r-\v,ir I*iillsinnlili; 
 Muiii:; iM.'iv. M'incil .-I' l!(i-i(iii . v 
 
 iliii ;ui la^t I'tinn \';ilM;ir:ii-(). hi'.i 
 
 ill .Miiir.- ly •ilaUs lliul lln' iliiiili 
 
 ;i!mI ih' li iL' ■■ r:uiiliir:i," ii'f in 
 'w Mirvfv ui III:" f:nir iinit c'o:i.-t ut* 
 
 "l!i>|,(>,"' o!" l'ri)\ i:it'iicL>. w:t- !'■ 
 l-I. il) riiiiM'trtl-'lu-r t}\' :ill iTrOi in llu' 
 
 111 UM>. wlihli I H-itlL' tlic oo;i>i.* ;iiiil 
 ■vio(';ti'i' Si. 1.iiim> froii. lil'tri-n 'it 
 o lliu i;i-l»;tril. — A'ltnoiia! hti'li, 
 
 111 r<'[ii<i. iiii.i mil' rlmiaa' na\i:::il(jr . 
 
 New Sjiiiii! .-ay- ; 
 ,il 111' In- i\'i tiiiiun (' u-i-l- iiol oniv 
 ,;ronomii':tl olwrviUluii-i. bill priiii.! 
 
 nw'lin.l wl.iili wa- I'liiplon'il t'» ■:'. 
 Till- liil.L'lluil.- :ill'! l".Mil''!n "I' linn 
 I'api* San lau-a*. .Alinitirin . Nonlii i. 
 wi.t li.XL'il in ill! ali.-iiiutii iiiiililici. 
 
 rroN' vvvvAi California. 
 
 In lavMii; this irnp before the Senate and 
 
 II until i|ialioii ol the lull work whieh my 
 pvpliinitidiis (willi sdiiie I'lirth'T exainiiia- 
 Iidiis) may eiiahle me in draw up hereafter, 
 I deem it ii prd;ier ai-compaiiiiiieiit to the 
 map to preseni some hriel iielires of Cai.i- 
 Hii;ni.\, with 11 view In show the character 
 of the fdiintry. and il- capahilily it olher- 
 wise to sustain ii cdn-iderahle popiilalidit. 
 
 III doiny' this, no irendal reiimrlis npplicahle 
 to the whdie (if ('alii'drniii can he \\<tH\. 
 'I'lie diversity in dill'erent |)arts is too iireat 
 Id iidiiiil ii'i eviierali/.alidii in the descriplinii. 
 Separate view.s of dilli'rent parts inii-t he ta- 
 ken ; and in this hriel sketch, the dcsiiin is 
 td limit the view Id the Iwii irreiit divisiens 
 of tlio country which lie on the opposite 
 sides of the Sii-.iiiiA Nkvaha, and to the 
 character of that nidiintaiii itself, so proiiii- 
 iieiit in the "trtiftiiro of the country, iind 
 exercisin;f so (jreat an intlneiice over thi> cli 
 mate. Slid, and productions of its lwdili\i 
 siuiis. 
 
 Sir.ni'.A NEVADA, 
 
 This Sii.uitA is p.art of llie ijavat inoniitain 
 riinye. which, iiiider ditlerent names and 
 with (lill'ereiit (.'levatidlis, hut with iiiiich iiiii- 
 fdniiilv of direction and peneral pro.\imity 
 Id the Cdasl. extends IVdiii the peninsula of 
 Califdrnia Id J{iis-iaii America, and witiioiit 
 a e-ap in the di-lance tlirdieili which the 
 water of tlii' ilocky iiidiintains could reach tin" 
 I'acilic dceaii. except at the two places wliere 
 the ('oliinihiii and Frazer's ri\er respect- 
 ively Hiid Ihi'ir passatji'. This j;re;it ranir'' 
 is remarkalile for its leiieth, its proximity and 
 parallelism to tin- sea-coast, its ereat eleva- 
 tion, often inoro lofty than the lldcky mdiin 
 tains, and its many ijrand volcanic peaks. 
 reacJiinu liiy:li into the rei_'ioii of perpetual 
 snow. IJisiiiii; siiiely, like pyramids, from 
 heavily thiiheri'd |)lateanx, to the lieijiht of 
 fourteen and seventeen thousand ieet ahovo 
 the level of the sea. these snowy peaks con- 
 stitute the characterizinir leatiiro of the 
 ran;j;e, and dislr.niriiisli it from the Rocky 
 riioiintains a,id all others on onr part of the 
 cuiilinent. 
 
 Tiiat part of this ranpre which traverses 
 the Alta C".\lifoi:ma is called the Sii-rra 
 Afidila, (Snowy mountain) — a name in it- 
 self iniplyinu' a jrreat elevation, as it is only 
 anplii'd. in Spanish L''('di;rapliv, to the moim- 
 laiiis whose snnimils ponetrale the reijionof 
 perpetual snow. It is a ^rriind t'eatiire of 
 ('alifornia, and a ddmiiiatini.' (ine. and iiiiist 
 he well nnderslddil heliire the striiclnre ef 
 the country and the character of its diirereiit 
 divisions can bo comprehended. It divides 
 (,'a!il'ornia into two parts, and exercises a 
 if'cided inlliionce on the climate, soil, and 
 [>rodiulions of oach. Stretcliiiii,' aloiiL;- the 
 
 c.visf. and at llin ei'iif'"il di-laiii'e e"" l.';f' 
 miles Iniin il, this oreat mumi'aiii w;i;l re- 
 ceives the warm winds, cliari.'eil with vaper, 
 which sweep across the i'acilic ocean, pre- 
 cipitates lli"ir accamiilaled iiieisiure in ler- 
 lihziii;; rains nnil snews npnii its western 
 tlaiik. and leaves cold and dry winds to jiass 
 on to the east. I leiice the c!iaracl"rislic dif- 
 ferences of the two reeions — mildness, fer- 
 tilitv, and a sii|ierl) vei.r,.tulj!e kiiiydom on 
 one side, Cdiiiparalive harreniiess and cold on 
 tlKyither. 
 
 'I'he Iwd sides of the Siena (>.\iilliit two 
 distinct climates 'I'he slate of vet/elation, 
 in <'diinectioii >.\illi sdioe iheruidiiielrical oh- 
 .servalions made diiriii'i the n '■■lit e.\pldrin:r 
 pxpedilidii td Calirdriiia. will estahlish iinU 
 ilii'istrate Ihis ditll'reiKc. In llie li"viiniiiirr 
 of Deceiiiher. iM,'). v. e cvd--eil this Sierra, 
 at latitude ;<!>" 17' \2". at Ii;" piv -eiit iisii.al 
 Ii- emigrant pass, at tlie li"ad ol the Sain. mi 
 Tniiil ri\er. 10 miles iinrlh el \ew Ilelvelia, 
 and made oli,-er\alioiis at each Imso, and in 
 the same liitiliidi'. Id delermire I he respect i\e 
 temperatures; the lun liases heiie;', respect- 
 ividy, the insh rii aiiiiiit ,000, and tli" ivst'rn 
 aliollt I.IIIKI feet alidve the level nf the sea ; 
 and the I'as-. 7.-J0ii feet. The mean results 
 of the ohservalions were, on the c.^/ reside, 
 at sunrise. (•° : at neon. 1 l" ; at siiiisi-t :!i)" ; 
 the state of veL'e'atidn and the iippearaiico 
 of the country hemi,' at the same liii.e (second 
 week (if Decemherj that df Cdiitiriaed win- 
 ter; the rivers frozen over, simw (in the 
 riilLies. annual plants dead, ^ra.-s dry, and de- 
 ciduous trees stripped of their fdliaec. At 
 \hi'. iirslirn base, the mean temperature dii- 
 rinii a correspondini.' week was, at sunrise, 
 2;)", and at siiiisel trS-^ ; the state ol' the at- 
 nidspliere and of vegetation tliat nf iiih.iliciiiu; 
 spriii;:' ; ei-ass fresh and L'iee:i. lour to eiiflit 
 inches hieli, vernal plants in hlooiii, the air 
 soft, and all the streams free from ice. Thus 
 DecemlM r, on one side of the mountain, was 
 winter ; on the other it was spriiie-. 
 
 THE i;i:r.AT n.vsix. 
 
 Fast of the Sierra Nevada, and between 
 it and the Uocky mountains, is tliat anoina- 
 loiis feature in our cuiitincnt, the (Jiikat J'a- 
 »iiN, the existence of which was aiKanced as 
 a theory after the seceiid expeditiim. aiul i.s 
 iidw eslahlished as a irooLrraphical fact. It 
 is a siiioiilar feature: a basin of some livo 
 liiindieirmdes diameter, every way, between 
 I'oiir and five thousand feel above the level 
 ol the .sea, shut in all around by moiintains, 
 with its own system of lakes and rivers, and 
 haviniT no conneclion whatever with the sea. 
 I'arllv arid and sparsely inhabited, the gen- 
 eral character of the (inr.AT I>.\si.n is that of 
 dd.sert, but with yreat exceplidus, there beinf^ 
 
CEOaRAPinCAL MRMOIR 
 
 siiiall ^Ironiiis of water IVdiii livo to lil'ly rcft 
 wido, wliic'li lose llu'iiiSL'lvcs, some 
 
 nianv pnrts of it \('ry fit for tlie resilience of 
 ii ri'vili/i'd |ieii|ile ; iiiiil of these |iiirts, the 
 Muriiiolis iiave lately estililislieil llieinselves 
 ill one nf llie lart.'e~t and liest. Mniiiitaili is 
 tlie preiloiiiinatin^' striutiiri' of the interior 
 (if tile llasiii. Willi plains lietween — tlie iiioiiii- 
 taiiis wooded and watered, the |)laiiis arid and 
 Hterile. 'I'lie interior nioiiiitains conform to 
 the law wiiirli yo\eriis llie course of the 
 Uorky iiiimntains and of the Sierra Nevada, 
 rani'iiii' nearly north and south, and present 
 a very iinilorin i haracter ol iilirn))tiies,s, ri«- 
 .11^' suddenly from a narrow hase of ten to 
 twenty miles, and attainiii;; an elevation of 
 two to live thousand leet atioNC the level of 
 the country. They are ;.'rassy and wooded, 
 sli.nvin:.; snow on their siiinmit peaUs diirinj; 
 Ihu {greater part of the year, and iitrordinj; 
 ' ' o to lil'ly feet 
 
 line in lakes, 
 (ioiiie in the dry plains, and some in the hell 
 o( alluvial soil 'it the hase ; for these nioiili- 
 tiiiiis have very iiiiiformly this belt of allu- 
 vion, the wash and ahrasion of their .sides, 
 rich in excellent ifrass, fertile, and li^'lit and 
 loose enoiinrli to alisorh small streams. IJe- 
 tweeii these mountains are the arid plains 
 whi<h receire and deserve the name of de- 
 pert. yiicli is the {general structure of the 
 interior of the (ireat Hasi'i, more Asiatic than 
 American in its character, and iiiiich rescin- 
 h'iiii,' the elevated re;;ion hetween the Cas- 
 pian sea and northern I'ersia. The rim of 
 this I?a>in i.' massive ran^jes of motinlains, 
 of which tlie Sierra Nevada on the west, and 
 the VVah-satch and Timpanotros chains on 
 the cast, are the most conspicuous. On the 
 north, it is se|)arated from the waters of the 
 Colunihia hy a hranch of the Kocky mouii- 
 tiiins, and from the fxiilf of ("alifornia, on the 
 Boiith. hy a lied of iiioiiiitainoiis ranges, of 
 which the existence has been only recently 
 determined. Snow alioiind.s on them all; 
 on some, in their loftii'r parts, the whole year, 
 with wood and <rrass ; with copious streama 
 of water, sometimes amounfini,' to considera- 
 ble rivers, tlowiiii; inwards. ;iii(l formiiii; lakes 
 or sinkiiiif in the sands. Helts or benches 
 of good alluvion are usually found at their 
 base. 
 
 Lakes in the (irrat Basin. — The Great 
 Salt lake and the Utah Ink,- are in this Basin, 
 toward.s it.s eastern rim, and constitute its 
 most interestiu;f feature — one, a saturated 
 solution of cominon salt — the other, fresh — 
 the Utah about one hundred feet above the 
 level of the Sail lake, which is itself four 
 thousand two hmidred above the level of the 
 sea, and connected by a strait, or river, thirty- 
 live miles lonji;. 
 
 These lakes drain an area often or twelve 
 thousand sijuare miles, and have, on the ea.-'t. 
 along the base of the mountain, the usual 
 bench of alluvion, which extends to a dis- 
 
 tance of three hundred miles, with wood an:! 
 water, and abundant ;;ra-s. 'I'lie Mormons 
 have established themselves on the s'r.iit be- 
 tween these two lakes, anil will liiid siiilicient 
 arable land for a lari,'(' setllemenl — important 
 troiii its position as intermediate between 1I16 
 .Mi^sissi|ipi valley and the I'acilic ocean, ami 
 on the line of coiiimuiiicalion to l,'alil. irnia 
 and Oregon. 
 
 'J'lie I'lali is aboiil thirty-live miles lon^r, 
 and is reiii.aikable for the numerous and bold 
 streams wliich it receives, coniini; down from 
 the moiintains on the southeast, all frei.h 
 water, allliuinjh 11 lar^'c formation of rock 
 salt, imbedded in red clay, is found within 
 the area on the southeast, wliich il drains. 
 'J'lie lake and its atlliieiits alVord larne trout 
 and other li-h in tjreat numlii'rs, which con- 
 stitute the food of the Utah Indians during' 
 the lishiiii; sea.son. 'I'lie (ireat Salt lake has 
 a very irrcfrular outline, frreatly extended at 
 time of meltini; snows. Il is about seventy 
 miles in leii;,'tli ; Ih'IIi lake.--, raniriiijr nearly 
 north and south, in conformity to the range 
 of the mountains, and is remarkable for it.s 
 jiredoiiiinance of salt. The wlio''^ l.iko wa- 
 ters seem thorouiihly saturated with it, and 
 every evaporation of the water leaves salt 
 behind. The rucky shores of the islands are 
 whitened by the sjiray. which leaves salt on 
 every thing it touches, and a covering like 
 ice forms over the water, which the waves 
 throw among the rocks. The shores of the 
 lake in the dry season, when the waters re- 
 cede, and esjiecially on the south side, are 
 whitened with incrustations of lino white 
 salt; the shallow arms of the lake, at the 
 same time, under a slight covering of briny 
 water, present bods of salt for miles, re- 
 sembling softened ice, into which the horses' 
 feet sink to the fetlock. I'lants and bushes, 
 blown by the wind upon these tields, are en- 
 tirely iiicrusted with crystallized salt, more 
 than an inch in thickness. Upon this lake 
 of salt the fresh water received, Iboiigli great 
 in quantity, has no percejitible ellect. No 
 fish, or animal life of any kind, is found in 
 it ; the larva' on the shore being found to 
 belong to winged insects. A geological ex- 
 amination of the bed and .shores of this lake 
 is of the highest interest. 
 
 Five gallons of water taken from this lake 
 in the month of September, and roughly 
 evaporated over a lire, gave fourteen pints of 
 salt, a |)art of which being subjected to ana- 
 lysis, gave the following proportions : 
 
 parts. 
 
 Chloride of sodium (common salt) . 97.80 
 
 Chloride of calcium . . . O.tJl 
 
 Chloride of magnesium . . . 0.;24 
 
 Sulphate of soda . . . 0.i'3 
 
 Sulphate of Line . . . . I.IJ 
 
 lOO.OC- 
 
Mildred inilcH, witli wood nr.;! 
 id.iiit ;;i;i-s. Tlic .Mnniions 
 I llicinscKis cm llic >ir.iit lie- 
 
 lakes, and wili liiid siurn-ient 
 I larije .«elllemeiil — iiiijiort'iii! 
 
 as iiileriiiediale lielweeii tlift 
 y and the IVicilic ocean, aiid 
 loiiiiiiuiiication to (,'alir.)rni;i 
 
 loiit t)iirly-li\e iniU's Innt', 
 ill' lor tlio niiiiieroiis iind liohi 
 t receives, coiniiii; down (roia 
 on tlic sontlieast, all rre!,li 
 a larire lorination of rock 
 n red clay, is lonnd witliiii 
 .-oiiliieast, wiiicli it drains, 
 atlliieiits all'ord lari.n' troiil 
 I <;reat ninnliers, wliicli con- 
 ol llie l^l.ili Indians duriTij; 
 ion. Tiiedreat Sail lake lia^ 
 r outline, jricatly extended at 
 r snows. It is aliont seventy 
 I ; Ih'IIi lakes ran^'inj; nearly 
 li, in conrorniilv to the rann-o 
 ns, and is reinarkaMe for ii.s 
 if salt, 'I'lie who'" l.dvU wa- 
 ■onfjhly saturated with it, and 
 ;ion of the water leaves salt 
 rocky shores ot' the islands are 
 le s|iray, which leaves salt on 
 touches, and a coverinj; like 
 r the water, which the waves 
 In; rocks. The shores of the 
 ■ season, when the waters re- 
 ■cially on the south side, are 
 I incrustations of line white 
 low arms of tho lake, at the 
 ler a slii;lit coverini; of hriny 
 ; heds of ,^alt for miles, re- 
 lied ice, into which the horses' 
 -• fetlock. Plants and hushes, 
 vind upon these lields, are on- 
 J with crystallized salt, more 
 1 thickness. Upon this lake 
 h water received, thonjrh great 
 IS no perce|)tihle ellect. ' \o 
 lil'e of any kind, i.s found in 
 )n the shore heiiif; found to 
 cd insects. A gi'olonfical e.v- 
 10 bed and .shores of tlii.s lake 
 st interest. 
 
 of water taken from this lake 
 of SeptomhiT, and roughly 
 r a lire, gave fourteen pint.s oi' 
 ivhicli being siilijecled to ana- 
 following proportions : 
 
 pans, 
 hum (common salt) . 97. «0 
 cii'tii . . . O.tjl 
 
 giicsium . . . 0.24 
 Jii ... 0.-_'3 
 
 le . . . . I.ij 
 
 UPON dPl.<.R Ca KOUNIA. 
 
 lOU.OC 
 
 Southward from the Utah in atiother lake 
 ."f which lilile more is now known than 
 "lien lluuiliolilt piililished his goiienil map 
 c' .Mexico. Il is the reservoir of a liaiid- 
 ■niiie ri\er, alMiiit two hiiiidred miles loiiif, 
 .-iuing In the Wah-salch ini.,i'it.uiis, and (lis- 
 chargiiii; a considerable volume of water. 
 The river and lake werecalleil hv the Span- 
 iurdf, iSViTo, C'>rrupliil by the hunters into 
 Srvjir, On (he nia[i. they are called .ViVo/- 
 /'■/, in honor of ./. .\. \ifiillii, who>e prema- 
 ture death interrupted the publication of the 
 learned work on the physical geography of 
 the basin of the Upiier .Mississippi, which live 
 yi.'ars of labor in tlio Held had prepared liiin 
 to give. 
 
 On the western fide of the basin, nnd 
 immediately within the first range of the 
 Sierra Nevada, is the I'vramid lake, receiving 
 the water of Salmon Trout river. It i.s 
 thirty-five miles kmig, between four and five 
 thousand feet aboM' the sea, surrounded by 
 mountains, is remarkably deep and clear, and 
 liboiiiids with uncommonly large salrnon trout. 
 Southward, along the bas(f of the Sierra Ne- 
 vada, is a range of considerable lake.s, form- 
 ed by many large streams from the Sierra. 
 Lake Walker, the largest among these, af- 
 fords great numbers of trout, similar to those 
 of the Pyramid lake, and is a place of resort 
 for Inilians in tlu^ tisliing season. 
 
 There are jirobably other collec-tion.s of 
 water not yet known. 'J'lie number of small 
 lakes is very great, many of them more or 
 less .sally, and all, like the riv«,.s which feed 
 them, changing their appearance and extent 
 under the inlliienceof the season, rising with 
 the melting of tlie snows, .^inking in I lie dry 
 weather, anil distinctly pre.senling I heir high 
 and low watermark. Those generally alTord 
 pome lertile and well-watered land, cupuble 
 of settlement. 
 
 Rivers tif llie (liral Rasin. — The mo.st 
 considerable river in the interior of the (Jreat 
 Basin is the one called on the map Humlxildt 
 river, as tlie mount;iins at its head are called 
 Humboldt river mountains — so called as a 
 small mark of respect tollie " .\i's/or of scien- 
 ti/ic tntcdlrrt:," who ha.s done .so much to 
 illustrate North American geography, with- 
 out leaving his name upon any one of its 
 remarkable features. It is a river long known 
 to hunters, and sometimes sketched on rnap.s 
 under tho name of Mary's, or Ogden'.s, but 
 now for the lirst time laid down with any 
 precision. It is a very peeiUiar stream, and 
 has many characteristics of an Asiatic rivor 
 — the Jordan, lor e.xample, though twice as 
 long — rising in mountains and losing it.self 
 in a lake of its own, after a long and solitary 
 course. It rises in two streams in moun- 
 tains west of the (ireat Salt lake, which 
 unite, after some lifly miles, and bears wcst- 
 wardly along the northern side of the basin 
 
 townrd.s the (ireat Sierra Nevada, which it is 
 di'>lini'd never to reai h, nun li less to pass. 
 The nioimtains in which il n-es ure round 
 and hani'-ome in their oulliiie. capped with 
 snow the greater part of the year, well 
 clothed wii')irrHHf>. *nd woml. and abuiulanl 
 in %'^'^.. * iir r.,ieam i- a narrow line, 
 r.ilboiit iillluen's, •■.-iiig h, ;.^-inrptioii and 
 evapiirR.?i,.ii hH if ijoes. nnd liTuiinaling in a 
 iiinrsliy lake, wiili low .-hon's, fringed with 
 bulrushes, nnd whitened with saline nicrus- 
 tations. Il has a iiinderate current, is Iroiii two 
 to si.\ feet deep ni the dry season, and jirolia- 
 Lly not fordable any where below the pinclion 
 of the f.irks during the lime of melting siiow.'i, 
 when Soth lake anil river are considerably 
 CB.arged. The country thnuigli which it 
 passes ^t xcept its immediale valley) is a dry 
 sandy plain, without lifass, wood, or arable 
 sofl ; from about 1,700 feet (at tho forks; to 
 ■t,20() foot (at the lake) abow tho levid of 
 the "sea, windiiiLr aiiionu' broke-i ranges of 
 mountains, and varviiiLT from a few miles to 
 twenty in breadih. lis own iiinnediale val- 
 ley is a rich alluvion. I)eautilrny covered 
 with blue-grass, herd-grass, clover, iiid other 
 nutritious grassivs ; and its coiirs is marked 
 through the plain by a lino of willow and 
 cotton-wood trees, serving for fuel. Tho 
 Indians in the fall set tire to the grass, and 
 destroy all trees e.\cept in low grounds near 
 the water. 
 
 This river pos.sesses ipialities which, in 
 the proiiress of events, in: y give it both 
 value and fame. Il lies on the line of travel 
 to California and Oregon, and is the best 
 route now known tlinnigh the (ireat Hasin, 
 and the one travelled by emigrants. Its direc- 
 tion, nearly east and west, is the right course 
 for that travel. It furnishes a levid unolj- 
 structed way for nearly throe hundred miles, 
 and a continuous supply of tho in(lis|-,ensablo 
 articles of water, wood, and grass. Its iiead 
 is towanls the (Ireat Salt lake, and conse- 
 quently towards the Mormon settlement, 
 which must become a point in tho lino of 
 emigration to (California and the lower Co- 
 lumbia. Its terinination is within lifty miles 
 of the base of the Sierra Nevada, and oppo- 
 site the Salmon Trout river pass — a pass only 
 .seven thousand two hundred feet above tho 
 level of tho sea. and less than half that above 
 the level of the IJasin, and leading into the val- 
 ley of tho Sacramento, some forty miles 
 north of Niiova Helvetia. These pro|)er- 
 ties give to this river a |)rospectivo value in 
 future communications with the I'acilic 
 ocean, and the prolile view on the north of 
 tho map shows tho elevations of the present 
 travelling route, of which it is a |iart. from 
 the South pass, in tho Rocky '.jioiintaiiis, to 
 the bay of San Francisco. 
 
 The other principal rivers of the (Ireat 
 13ashi are found on its circmnferencc, col 
 
w 
 
 (jnnoRArnrrvi, Mrniom 
 
 lecliii^ llh'ir Wiilcri* Iroiii tin'" Simwy iimiiii- 
 i.u H. wiiii'li ^Mrnlllllll If, mill iirc, i. Uc.ah 
 itiw.ii, on tliii i'a!-l, rising' in tlic iim.i^ivc 
 riiii,'(i 1)1' till' 'riiii|)iiii()i,'iH iiiiimiliiini iiiid 
 
 l.lllilli,' into llic (il(';it S.ljt lilki'. IlftiT II 
 
 (Iciiililiiijj coursi' llirmi^'li ii tciiili- iind |iictu- 
 ri'jJiiur Miili'v, two liiiiiili'cil iiiiirs Inni;. 2. 
 
 Tlu' I'i'AII IJIVI.U llllli 'l'l.MI.\NAIl/l: or 'I'lMI'A- 
 
 xoi.os. ill^('li.iri.'iiii; llicinx'lvc-i iiit" tlio Ct.-ili 
 lake nil till! ciist. iil'ii'r iratln'riii;^ their Cdni- 
 oils rtriMiiis ill till* iiil|iiiiiiii;,' part.'! nf 1m> 
 \Vi''i-sii'cli llllli 'l"iiii|innoLriH iiioiiiitaiii^. ;}. 
 Niriii.MiT iiivr.i!. ri-uiij,' Miiitli ill till' loni,' 
 rail!,'!' of llin Wiih-siiirk inoiiiilaiiis, niui 
 ralliiiLr iiiti) II laki- ot' its own iiaiiic, iifliT 
 iiialiinif iin iiralili' mid irrassy viiili'y. two 
 liiiiKJi'i'il mill's in lrii;.'lli, tlirniiirji nioiiiitaiii- 
 oiis c'liiiiilry. 4. Salmon Ti:oit river, on 
 the west, riiiininjr down Cniiii the Sierm Ne- 
 vada mid liillint; into I'yraiiiid lake, niter a 
 course of ahoiil one hiiiidn'd miles. I'Vom 
 its source, ahoiif one-third of its valley is 
 tliroiii.r|i a |iiiii'-timhered country, and for the 
 remiMMilcr of the way throiinh verv rockv, 
 naked riili,'es. It is remarkable for tlio iilmii- 
 (lanee and excellence of its salmon trout, 
 and |ireseiil^ soint! njrouiid for cultivation. 
 a. ('a::son and \Vai,ki;ii rivers, hot Ii hand- 
 some rlear-wiiter sire.ims. nearly one liimdred 
 miles leiiMf,ciiiiiiii;r. like the precediiiij. down 
 iheea.-tiTii tlank ol' the Sierra Nevada and 
 forminjr lakes of their own name at its hase. 
 They c(intain salmon trout and other lisli, 
 and form some larife hothims of ijond land. 
 G. <)wi:ns hivki!, issuing.' from the Sierra 
 Nevada on the south, is a larire hold 
 Hlream ahoiit one hiindreil and twenty miles 
 loiirj, (Tuiheriiiir its waters in the Sierra Ne- 
 vada, lliiwin;,' to the southward, anil forminij 
 a lake ulioiit ilfteen miles Imij^r at the hase of 
 the mountain. At a medimii staije it is j;eii. 
 3rally four or live feet deep, in places iifteen ; 
 wooded with willow and cotton-wond, and 
 makes continuous bottoms of fertile land, nt 
 intervals rendered marshy hv sprin^^s mid 
 small allluents tVoui the iiiountain. 'J'lie 
 water of the lake in which it terminatos has 
 an iin|ileasant smell and had taste, hut 
 around its shores are found small streams of 
 pure water ^\'illl jiood irrass. On the map 
 this has been called Ovkkns river. 
 
 Besides these principal rivers issuinn; from 
 the mountains on the circumference of the 
 Great liasm. there are many others, all 
 around, all oheyinir the ;^'eneral law of losinj^ 
 themselves in sands, or lakes, or belts of 
 alluvion, and almost all of them an inde.x 
 to some arable land, with ^rpass and wood. 
 
 Intvrliir nf thr (Irtat Jiia^in, — The interior 
 of the fireat Hasin, so far as e.xjilored, is 
 found to he a succession of sharp mountain 
 ranires and naked |ilains, such as have been 
 described. These ranj^es are isolated, ])re- 
 scnting summit lines broken into many 
 
 |ieaks, of which the hiijhput nro liotweeit ten 
 
 and eleven thousand I'eet iiIkiVi' the t-t'-.i. 
 'I'hey are thinly wiuHled with some varirtiej 
 of pine, (jiiiiiis niiiiiiiphi/lliis characteristic,) 
 (••Hliir, iHpen. and u few other trees; niiil ri;" 
 lord an excelli'iit ipiality of hunch '.n'Mw^ 
 eijiial to any loiind in the Kncky iiioiiii>,i!u-. 
 liiack-laileil di'iT and nioiintain sheep ar.; 
 Ireipieiit in these mountains; which, in con- 
 sidrratioii of their <rrass, water, and wood, 
 and the alluvion at their hase, may be called 
 fertile, in the railical sen.-e of the word, as 
 siyfiiifyini; a capacity to pmiliice. or bear, mid 
 in colli radi~linct ion tii^lerllity. In this sens.-i 
 those interior iiioiiniains may he called fertile. 
 Sterility, on the cmilrary, is the ahsohite 
 characteristic, of the valleys between the 
 inoimtains — no woinI, no water, no frrass ; 
 the (.'liiomy arteinisia the prevailiiii.' shriili — 
 no animals, except the hares, w'J Mi shelter 
 in these shrubs, and lleet and timid antelope, 
 always on the watch for dau;,'er, and tindinjj 
 no place too dry and barren which fjives it a 
 wide horizon for its view and a clear Held tor 
 its lliirht. No birds are .seen in the plains, 
 and lew on the mnuntains. Hut few Indians 
 are found, and those In ilw lowest state of 
 human (vxistence; livini; not even in coin- 
 ninnities, hut in ilu' elementary state of fa- 
 milies, and somelimes a siiiijlo individual to 
 himself — except about the lakes stocked with 
 tisli, which become thi' property and resort 
 of u small tribe. The ahuudancoaiul excel- 
 lence of the li.li, in most of these lakes, is a 
 characteristic; and the lishiiiii; season is 
 to the Indians the happy season of the 
 year, 
 
 ('limalc of the Urral liasin.—Tho climato 
 of the Great Hasin does not |iresent the rij^or- 
 ous winter due to its elevation and mountain- 
 ous structure. Observations made durinjr 
 the last expedition, show that around the 
 southern shores of the Salt lake, latitude 10° 
 30', to 41°, for two weeks of the month of 
 October, 18,3,'i, from the L^tli to the ;27th, 
 the mean temperature was 41)° at sunrise, 
 70° nt noon, and .51° at sunset ; rani^nnif at 
 sunrise from M° to ,57° ; at noon from ()2° 
 to7<)":i at four in the afleriionn, from .58° 
 to Oi)° ; and at sunset, from 47° to ,57°. 
 
 Until the middle of the month the weather 
 remained fair and very pleasant. On the 
 1.5lli, it bepin to rain in occa'^ional showers, 
 which whitened with snow the tops of the 
 mountains on the south-eastern side of tho 
 valley. Flowers were in bloom durinir all 
 the month. About the 18th, on one of tho 
 larjfe islands in the south of the lake, 'ii'/(a«- 
 lliiis, several s])ecies of nskr, cradinm, cicUf 
 tiiriiim, and several other plants, were in 
 fn^sli and full bloom ; the fjrass of the sec- 
 ond growth was cominrf up tuiely, and veirc- 
 tation, ironerally, betokoncJ tlio lengthened 
 Slimmer of the clunate. 
 
til.' liifliiMf nr(> liofxvcrn i.^n 
 iiwmil li'i't hImivc till, s .;,. 
 \V(iimIc(I with Willie \iirir|ii-.' 
 mnwiphijlliis cliariicti'ivlic,; 
 I 11 ti'u- oilier Irci'.-i ; niid ri:' 
 It (|il;ility of ImiiicIi '_'r!i w, 
 ■ I ill till' |{(irky iiiMiiiiijiu., 
 Mini niiiiiiitiiln hlicrp ar.; 
 iiioiiiitaiiH ; wliich, in (.m. 
 ir ^'rllss, sviifiT, iiiid woo,!. 
 it llii'ir liiisc, iniiy !"• cilli'il 
 iilii'iil hciiM- (if |li(« wiinl. MS 
 city til |iniiliii'ii, or liivir. iiiid 
 oii'tii-lcrility. [nllii^ sciisn 
 iirii.-iins iiiiiy'hi'Ciillcil fiTtiic. 
 I'niiiriiry, is the iilisniiitf' 
 f llic ^■ll"lll•y,^ lift ween llio 
 wimmI, lid uiitcr, Ml) (.rniss ; 
 iiii-i:i till- prc'vailiii;/ i<liriili — 
 |it till' liari'-i, w'. ■•Ii slii-ltcr 
 ami lI'M't anil tiiiiiil aiit('li)[ii', 
 iiiti-ii lor (lMii;r('r, anil tiiidiiijr 
 • and liarri'ii uliicli j,'ivcs it a 
 r its view and a cit'iir licld lor 
 lirds aro seen in the plains, 
 noiintains. Hut lew Indians 
 tliosi' in till' lcnvi>st slato of 
 '«; livini; not cvfii in coin- 
 ilio cli'ini'iitary Mate of fa- 
 cliiiii's a .siiii,'lo individual In 
 about llio lakes storked with 
 inii> llii> |iro|i('rty and rosort 
 'I'lie aliiindancoand cxccl- 
 1. in most of these luken, is a 
 and the lishinir season ia 
 tho hajipy season of the 
 
 rdrrnt Basin. — Tho climate 
 <in dons not prpsont tho rij^or- 
 
 its elevation and monntain- 
 Obsorvations made diirinir 
 
 lion, show tiiat tironnd the 
 of tho Salt lake, latitude 10° 
 
 two weeks of the month of 
 from the 13tli to the 27t]i, 
 
 leratiire was 40° at siiiiriso, 
 
 1 51° at sunset ; ranj,nnif at 
 >° to .')7" ; at noon from ()2° 
 
 in the al'lernoon, from tjS" 
 sunset, from -17° to ,57°. 
 lie of the month the weather 
 ml very pleasant. On the 
 1 rain in oceasional showers, 
 
 witli snow the tops of tho 
 le south-eastern side of tho 
 s were in bloom diirinn; all 
 Jilt the 18tli. on one of tho 
 he south of the lake, hflian- 
 'cies of nslcr, n-niHiini, ciai- 
 era! other plants, were in 
 loom ; the frrass of the sec- 
 comin(T lip lini'ly, and ve(,'e- 
 , hetokoiicd the' lengthoncd 
 limate. 
 
 UPON nrpun <\\mi'()UN1a. 
 
 'I'l'.e Ifith. 17lli, and Istli. Hloriiiv with 
 rain ; limvy at ni^rlil ; praks of the jji'iir 
 river raiiL'e and tops of »lie iiionniains con- 
 erod with >iiow. On the IHih. clearrd with 
 weiilher like iliat of late sprinjr. nnd con- 
 iinned mild and cle.ir until the end of the 
 month, w lii'ii the line weather wih iiKiiiii in- 
 terrupted liy a ilav or two of rain. Nohmow 
 within -'.on'o feel above the level of the valley. 
 
 ,\iTo-s llie ii'lei-ior. between lalilndes li° 
 and '.iH°, diirini.' the nionlli of November, 
 (."jtli toL'iVli.) the ni'-aii tempenitiire was lMI" 
 nt binirise. and 10* at sniiset ; ran(,nn;r at 
 noon (by detiched (ib^rrviltiuns) between 11" 
 and tii»°. 'There was a snow storm between 
 the Ith and 7th. the snnw falliii!.' principally 
 at niicht. and snii occasioimilv breaking' out 
 in the day. Tlie lower iiilis and \.illeys 
 vvere covered a few inches deep with snow, 
 '< liich the sun carried oil" in a few hours after 
 U*' storm was over. 
 
 'i'lie weatliiT then continued nninterrnpt- 
 rdly open iiiilil the clo^i'of the year, withont 
 rain or snow ; and diiriiii; the remiinder of 
 November, yi'ii' rally clear and beautiful ; 
 ni|.'lilsand morniii;,''' calm, a liu'bt bree/.e dil- 
 rinjj the day, and stroni,' winds of very rare 
 occurrence. .Snow remained only on the 
 peaks of the inoiintains. 
 
 On the western side of the basin, aloiif; 
 the base of the Sirrrn .\ir(iilii, iliirinu two 
 weeks, I'rom the 2.")lli .\(ivtml>''r to the llth 
 /A'o //i/"'/', the mean lemperatiire at Minrisi; 
 was 11'^, and at siiiwet ;i 1° ; raiiijinijaf sun- 
 rise from z"ro to Jl". at sunset from 'Si° to 
 44". For ten consecutive days of the s.ame 
 period, the mean temperatnro at noon was 
 45°, ran;,'inLr tiom :!;!° to 6t)". 
 
 Tho weather remained open, usually very 
 cle.ar, and tlu' rivers were frozen. 
 
 The winter of ' i:}-'44, within the basin, 
 was remarkable for the same open, pleasant 
 weather, rarely interrupted by rain or snow. 
 In lact, there is nothini.' in the climatis of 
 this ixreat interior rejrioii, elevated as it i.s, 
 and snrroinided and tr.iversed by snowy 
 mountains, to prevent civilized ni:in from 
 makin;,' it bis home, and liiidin^' in its arable 
 parts till.' m"aiis of a coinl'ortable subsis- 
 tence; and this the Mormons v.ill probably 
 poon prove in the parts about the (ireat Salt 
 lake. The pni;jress of their settlement is 
 already jfreat. On the lirsl of April of the 
 present year, they had 3.000 acres in wheat, 
 seven saw and irrist mills, seven hundred 
 houses in a fortitied inclosnrc of si.vty nere.>, 
 ."Stock, and other accompaniments of u flour- 
 ishing settlement. 
 
 Such is the (Jreat liasin. iierctofore char- 
 acterized as a desert, and in some respect;) ' 
 meritinir that appellation ; but already de- 
 mandiiiLr the ijiiililication of j/reat exceptions, 
 and deserviiijr the full (.'xaminalion of a thor- , 
 ough exploration. , 
 
 MA 11 1 riMi: 
 
 i:KiiiiiN wr.tT OK 
 
 Ni:VAIi.\. 
 
 II 
 
 rilC. MIEURi 
 
 Wisr of the Sir.iiiiA NiVAiiA, and Ik> 
 Iween ih.it moiiiilain and the ^m, is (ht! 
 second erand diM-ion o| ( 'alifcrniii, iinij tlir 
 only part to which the name iippliei in the 
 ciirrenl biiiL'uaee of the coutitrv. It is the 
 occupied 'ind inhabited jiart. and so dillerent 
 ill character — .xi divideil bv the iiioiin'ain 
 w.ill of ill' Sie.Tii from l!i'- (ireal HaMii 
 iibove — us to constitute a region to itself, 
 with II structure and conlij.Mira!;iiii — n ("oil, 
 climate, iind productions — of its o'vn ; and 
 ns iiorihern I'ersia may lie refi red ti an 
 .•"Oiiii' type of the former, so may Italy bo rn- 
 ferreil tons some iioiiit o|' coiiipari-oii for tho 
 latter. North and south. thi< region embra- 
 ces about ten de^'rei's of latitinl' — Ir mi ,'JJ", 
 where it touches the jieniniula of Ciliforniii, 
 to 1J°, where it iHiiinds on Ore;;on. Kast 
 and we-t. from the Si'Tra N'e\;iil,i to the sen, 
 it will averam'. in the middle |i.irls, l.'jo miles ; 
 in the northern jiarls •JOO — j.'i\iiij.' anareaof 
 above one hundred thousand Sipi.ire inilos. 
 Iiookinif westward from the summit of llio 
 Sierra, tho main fe.iture presented is tho 
 Ion;;, low, broad valley of the .loaipiin and 
 Sacramento rivers — the two valleys forming 
 one — live hundred miles Imi^' and til'ly broan, 
 lyinjr aloii^r the base of the Sierra, and 
 bounded to tho west by the low coast ran^fO 
 of mountains, wdiicli separates it from tho 
 pea. Lon;; dark lines ot timber indicate tho 
 streams, and briijfht spots mark the interve- 
 niny: jilains. Lateral ran^res, parallel to tho 
 Sierra Nevada and the coast, make thi; struc- 
 ture of the country and break it into a sur- 
 face of valleys and mountains — the valleys a 
 few hundred, and the mountains two to four 
 llionsand feel above the sea. 'I'heso form 
 jrreater masses, and become ni'ire elevated in 
 the north, where some peaks, in the Sliasll, 
 enter the reirions of per|)etiial siiow.^ 
 Stretched alon^r the mild coa-t of tho I'li- 
 cilic. with a ijeiieral elevation in its plains 
 and \alleys oi' only a tew hundred feet above 
 the level of the sea — and backed by the lonir 
 and lolly wall of the Sierra — inililneB.s and 
 fienialily may be assumed as the cliaractor- 
 islic of its chmate. 'I'he inhabitant of cor- 
 re-;])iindiii;; latitudes on the Atlantic side of 
 this conliiienl can with dilliciilly conceive of 
 the soft air and southern productions under 
 the same latitudes in the mariliiiK^ recrion of 
 Upper ("alifornia. The sin^^fular beauty and 
 puritv of the sky in the south of this rejrion 
 is characterized by Humboldt as a rare phe- 
 nomenon, and all travelers realize the truth 
 of his description. 
 
 The present condition of the country af- 
 fords but slifrhl data for fonnini; correct 
 opinions of the agricultural ca|iicity and fer- 
 tility of the soil. Vancouver found, at tJie 
 
12 
 
 r.EOORAFillCAL MKMOIR 
 
 mission of ,S:iii nnoiiavoiitMi-a, in 17it-J. l;ili- 
 tiidp 31° Hi', iiiiplc-;, prar:^, pliiiiis, liL'>. or.ni- 
 fps, firnpf-J, pcaclio^, mill ponipiiriuiiilcs. 
 iTrowinjr tojirtJKM- Willi tlic pliuitiun. Inniinii, 
 cocnnniit, sii;>-i\r-c;nif', nnd ilidiijrn, nil yioltl- 
 iiii^ fruit in jiliMMilancp and of oxnOl-'iit 
 qiwdity. 1 liniilioldt niontions the olive oil of 
 (JalifoVnia as eipial to that of Ai\(laliisia, and 
 liio vvine like that of the Canary Islands 
 At present. Inil little remains of the iii<:li and 
 varions cultivation which had hoen attained 
 at the niissioiH. Under the mild and pater- 
 nal administration of the " Falliers" the do- 
 cile character id' the Indians was made availa- 
 ble for lahor. and thousands were employed 
 in the lields, tlie orchards, and the vineyards. 
 At present, hnt little of this former cuhiva- 
 tion is seen. The fertile valleys are over- 
 grown with will! mustard ; vineyards nnd 
 olive orchards, decayed and nefrlected, are 
 aiiionff the remaininif vesti^'es ; only in some 
 places do we see the evidences of what the 
 country is capable. At San B.'enavenlura 
 we foii'nd the o!iv(> trees, in January, hendin<f 
 under the weiiiht of nefjlected fruit ; and the 
 mission of San Luis Ohispo (latitude 35°) is 
 still di.sliniiuished for the excellence of its 
 olives, considered fuier and larger than those 
 of the Mediterranean. 
 
 Tiie productions of the south differ from 
 those of tlie north and of tlie middle. Grapes, 
 olives, Indian corn, have been its staples, 
 with many assimilated fruits and grains. To- 
 bacco has been recently introduced nnd tlie 
 uniform s\ni.iner heat wiiich follows the wet 
 season, and is munterrupted by rain, would 
 make the sinithern country well adapted (o 
 cotton. Wheat is the iirst product of tlie 
 north, where it always constituted tiie prin- 
 cipal cultivation of the missions. This promi- 
 ses to be the irrain p-rowinfi reirion of Cali- 
 fornia. The moisture of t'le coast seems 
 particularly suited to the ,,otato and to the 
 vegetables couunon to the United States, 
 wliich grow to an extraordinary size. 
 
 Perhaps few parts of the world can pro- 
 duce in such perfection so great a variety of 
 fruits and grains as the large and various re- 
 gion inclosing the i)ay of San Francisco, 
 and drained by its waters. A view of the 
 map will show that region and its great 
 extent, comprehending the entire valleys of 
 the Sacramento and San Joaquin, and the 
 wliolo western slope of the Sierra Nevada. 
 General phrases fail to give proci.se ideas, 
 and I have recourse to the notes in my jour- 
 nal to show its climate and productions by 
 the test of the thermometer and the state of 
 the vegetable kingdom. 
 
 VALLEYS OF TIIE SAORAMRNTO ANO SAN JOA- 
 
 guiN. 
 These valleys are one, discriminated only 
 by the names of the rivers whicii traverse it. 
 
 It is a sinirle valley — a single geographical 
 formation— near .'jno miles Ion;:, lying at the 
 western base of the Sierra Nevada, and be- 
 tvveiMi it anil the coast range of mountains, 
 and stretchinir across the head of the bry 
 of San Francisco, with wliich a ihlla ot 
 iwenty-tive miles connects it. Tiio two 
 rivers!^ San Joatpiin a:nl Sacramento, rise at 
 opposite ends of this long valley, receive nu- 
 merous streams, many of thein bold rivers, 
 from the Sierra Nevada, bi-conie themselves 
 navigable rivers, tlow towa.d each other, 
 meet"' half way, and enter the bay of San 
 Francisco tosjether, in the region of tide 
 water, making a continuous water lino from 
 one end to the other. 
 
 The valley of the San Joaquin is about 
 300 miles long and (iO broad, between the 
 slopes of the coast mountain and the Sierra 
 Nevada, -vith a general elevation of only a 
 few hundred feet above the level of the sea. 
 It presents a variety of soil, from dry and 
 unproductive to well watered and luxuriantly 
 fertile. Tiie eastern (which is the fertile) 
 side of the valley is intersected with nuiner- 
 ous streams, forming large and very beautiful 
 bottoms of fertile land, wooded jirincipally 
 with white oaks ((jucrciis Idiifii^lamld, Torr. 
 and Frem.) in open groves of handsome 
 trees, often five or six feet in diameter, and 
 sixty to eighty feet high. Only the larger 
 streams, which are fifty to one hundred and 
 fifty yards wide, and drain the upper pans 
 of the monntiiins, pass entirely across the 
 valley, forming the Tulare lakes and the San 
 Joaqiiin river, wliich, in the rainy season, 
 make a continuous stream from the head ot 
 the valley to the liay. The ./»()/ hills of the 
 Sierra Nevada, which limit the valley, make 
 a woodland country, diversified with undu- 
 lating grounds nnd pretty valleys, and water- 
 ed with numerous small streams, which 
 I reach only a few miles beyond the hills, the 
 1 springs which supply thein not being conious 
 enough to carry thein across the plains. 
 ' These aflbrd many advantageous spots for 
 '' farms, making sometimes large bottoms of 
 ' rich moist land. The rolling surface of the 
 : hills presents sunny exposures, sheltered 
 ! from the winds, andhavii'g a highly fovora- 
 I ble climate and suitable soil, are considered 
 to be well adapted to the ciillivation of the 
 '■- grape, and will probably become the princi- 
 pal vine growing region of ("ahforni i The 
 uplands bordering the valleys of .ue largo 
 streams are usually wooded with evergreen 
 oaks, and the intervening plains are timbered 
 with groves or belts of evergreen and wniie 
 oaks among prairie and o|)en land. The 
 , surface of the valley consists of level plains 
 ' along the Tiilarfe 'lakes and San Joanum 
 river'^ changing into undulating and rolling 
 ground nearer the foot hills of the moun- 
 tains. 
 
liPON l.Tl'tlll CAI-Il'"OKN[A. 
 
 13 
 
 illoy — ;i siiip;le frpofrr;iphira'i 
 
 ■ ."jiio miles Imiir, lyiii^' iit the 
 :' the Sii'i-m Nc'vaila, ami be- 
 e coast ran<;o of ino(in!.iins, 
 across the hpa<l of iho Wy 
 SCO, witli which a d'Ua o' 
 los coiiiipcts it. Tiio two 
 luin a:Ml Sacraiiionto, risu at 
 
 ■ this loiinf valley, receive lui- 
 i. many o( them hold rivers, 
 
 Nevada, hecoine themselves 
 s, tlow towa.d each other, 
 , and enter the hay of San 
 •ther, in the region of tide 
 a continiions water lino from 
 )ther. 
 if the San Joaquin is about 
 
 and (iO broad, between the 
 Mst motuitain and the Sierra 
 I pfcncral elevation of only a 
 et above the level of the .sea. 
 variety of soil, from dry and 
 ) well watered and luxuriantly 
 eastern (which is the fertile) 
 ey is intersected with ntiiner- 
 rminj; larn;o and very beautiful 
 •tile land, wooded jirincipally 
 s {(]urrcii!i l(iniri;^l(i)id(t, Torr. 
 1 open frrovps of handsonio 
 ) or .six feet in diameter, and 
 
 feet high. Only the larger 
 
 are fifty to one hundred and 
 e, and drain the upper pans 
 ins, pass entirely across the 
 ; the Tuhirc lakes and the San 
 
 wiiicli, in the rainy season, 
 ions stream frou\ the head ot 
 10 bay. Theyi")/ hilh of the 
 , which limit the valley, inake 
 )mitry, diversilied with nndu- 
 and pretty valleys, and water- 
 lerous small streams, which 
 >w miles beyond the hills, the 
 supply them" not being copious 
 rry tliein across the plains, 
 many advantageous spots for 
 f sonu^times large bottoms of 
 i. The rolling surface of tlie 
 
 sunny exposures, sheltered 
 ■:, and havii'g a highly favora- 
 ;l suitable soil, are considered 
 ipted to the cultivation of the 
 1 probably becnmo the princi- 
 ng region of (!a!iforni i The 
 ring the valleys of uie largo 
 sually woodedwith evergreen 
 intervening plains are timbered 
 • belts of evergreen and wniie 
 prairie and o|)en land. The 
 
 valley consists of level plains 
 darfe lakes and San Joanum 
 g into \uidulating and rolling 
 r the foot hills of the moun- 
 
 A condensed notice from ohserva'ions, 
 ;Tr;de diu-iuii' several journeys through the 
 ■ alliv, will serve to give seme detiuite iileas 
 iif its f hmate and character. 
 
 We left the upper settlements of New 
 Il'.^'.vetia on the Mth December, and, passing 
 ihiou!;h the groves of oak which border the 
 ilio (le los Americanos, directed our course 
 in a southeasterly direction across a plain 
 toward the Rio de los Cos-um-nes, a hand- 
 some, well-wooded stream, about thirty yards 
 wide. The Cos-mii-ni' ln<iians, who give 
 name to this river, have been driven away 
 from it within a few years, and disperseil 
 among other tribes j and several farms, ot 
 ■some leagues in extent, have already been 
 established on the lower part of the stream. 
 We encamped at one of these, about eight 
 miles above the juiu'tion of the Cos-nm-ne 
 river with the 51o-kel-um-ne, which a few 
 miles below enters a deep slough in the tide 
 vater of the San .loatjuin deltir. 
 
 At this place the temperature at sunset 
 pas 55". and at sunrise 'J7°. 
 
 Our road on the loth was over the plain 
 between the Cos-\un-no and Mo-kel-um-ne 
 rivers, inclining toward the mount-ains. We 
 crossed several wooded sloughs, with ponds 
 of deep water, which, nearer the foot hills, 
 are running streams, with largo bottoms of 
 fertile land ; the greater part of our way 
 being through open woods of evergreen and 
 other oaks. The rainy season, which com- 
 monly begins with November, had not yet 
 comu'ienced, and the Mo-kel-um-ne river was 
 at the lowest stage usual to the dry season, 
 and easily forded. This .stream is about sixty 
 yards wide, and the immediate valley some 
 thirty or forty feet below the upland plain. 
 It has broad alluvial bottoms of very fertile 
 soil — sometimes live hundred yards wide, 
 bounded bv a low uplanil. wooded with ever- 
 green oaks. The weather in the evening 
 was calm, the sky mottled with clouds, and 
 the t(Miiperature at sunset 52^. 
 
 Leaving the Mo-kel-um-ne, (December 
 IG.) we travelled about twenty miles through 
 open woods of white oak. crossing in the 
 way several stream beds— among them the 
 Calaveras creek. These have abundant 
 water, with good land above ; and the Calav- 
 eras makes some remarkably handsome bot- 
 toms. I.-suing from the woods, we rode 
 about sixteen miles over an open prairie, 
 partly covered with bunch-grass, the tiniber 
 i-eapneariu'j; on the rolling liills of the river 
 Stanislaus in the usual' belt of evergreen 
 oaks. The river valley was about forty feet 
 below the upland, and the stream seventy 
 yards broad, making the nstial fertile bottoms, 
 which here were covered with green grass 
 imeng larsre oaks. We encamped in one 
 of these botinms. in a grove of the large 
 white oakf pr-vioii.sly mentioned, as qmrcus 
 
 Iniii^iiihiniln {'Varr. and Frnn.) 'fhis oak 
 is a new species, belingini: to tiie division 
 of white oaks, dislingnished by the length of 
 its acorn, which is connnoidy an inch ami a 
 half, and sometini'^s two inches. This Ion;; 
 acorn characterizes the tree, which h:,s ac- 
 cordingly been specitied by Dr. Torrey as 
 (jiiin-iis li)niii'j;litud(t — (loug-acorn oak.*) 
 'I'he tree attains frefjuently a diameter of six 
 feet, and a height of eighty feet, with a wide 
 spreading head. The many varieties of do- 
 ciduous and evergreen oaks, which predom- 
 inate thror.ghout 'he valleys and lower hills 
 of the mountains, atford largo (|uautities of 
 acorns, which constitute the principal food 
 of the Indians of that region. Their great 
 abundance, in the midst of fine pasture 
 lands, nuist make them an important element 
 in the agricultural economy of the country. 
 The day had been very warm, and at sun- 
 set the temperature was 55", and the weather 
 clear and calm. 
 
 At simrise iu?xt morning, the thermometer 
 was at •X-l°, with a light wind from the Sierra, 
 N. 75" Fi., and a clear, pure sky, in which 
 the blue line of the mountain showed dis- 
 tinctly. The way, for ihout three miles, was 
 through open woods of evergreen and other 
 oaks,''witli some shrubbery intermingled. 
 Among this was a lu\nnuf: of extraordinary 
 size, not yet in bloom. Emerging from the 
 woods, we travelled in a southeasterly direc- 
 tion, over a prairie of rolling land, the ground 
 In^coming somewhat more broken as v,c ap- 
 proacheirthe To-wal-um-ne river, one of the 
 fmest tributaries of the San Joaquin. The 
 iiills were generally covered with a species 
 of geranium, {erod'ium ciciilarium,) a valua- 
 blefilant for stock, considered very nutritious. 
 W'ith this was frequently interspersed good 
 and greeii bunch-grass, and a plant com- 
 I monly called bur clover. This plant, which 
 ! in some places is very abundant, bears a. spi- 
 i rally twisted pod, tilled with seeds, which re- 
 I mains on the grouiul during the dry season, 
 I well preserved, and affords good food for cat- 
 I tie until the spring rains bring out new grass. 
 ' We started a band of wild horses on ap- 
 i preaching the river, and the Indians ran olf 
 from aviUage on the baidv— the num lurking 
 I round to observe us. About tlieir huts were 
 I the usual ucorn rrihs. containing each some 
 i twenty or thirty bushels. We foinii! here 
 ' ')road bottoms of alluvial 
 oaks of 
 
 excellent grass, and 
 land, open-wooded, with large white 
 the new species. The thermometer, at sun- 
 set, was 54^.5, with i. calm, clear atmo.s- 
 phere. Multitudes of gee. c and other wild 
 fowl made the night noisy. 
 
 In the morning, the sky was clear, with 
 an air from S. 55 E., and a' hoar frost cover- 
 
 * The n:im« i.f plants mcnlioned in tliis memoir rest 
 on the authority ..f Dr. Torrey, hy whom llie specimeiif 
 have been exaniineil. 
 
r 
 
 14 
 
 GEOGRAnilCAL MHMOIR 
 
 iiii; thf' ST"!"!'' 'i'i'' i* liirli' Tall of snow. 
 At Minri.-c. Ilii' thf'riiKiiiicti'r WHS ■2\°J). Our 
 coiirsi' MOW in('iiii''(l niorc towiinls the loot of 
 tlif inoiiiitaiii. inid led ovi'r a lirolicii ciniii- 
 Iry. Ill about 17 miles we rcarlicil llio river 
 Aii.\-iiii.-n', aiinliier lar^jo iilllueiit to llie 
 ►•'ail Joaiji.iii, and (■niitiiiiied about six inilcs 
 u|) ibe stream. iMicniliiiji' lo ri'acli, i;ra(bially, 
 the lieart of tbe luniiiilaiMs at the head of the 
 Ltik" F.n-k of tbe Tiilari. 
 
 We encamped on tlic southern side of 
 the river, where broken hills made a sfee]) 
 hhiir, with a narrow bottom. On the north- 
 ern "ide was a low, uruhilatin;j wood and 
 prairie land, over wliicii a band of about tiiree 
 hundred ellv was slowly cominjj to \<ater 
 vvIktc wo halted, fec^dini^as they approached. 
 
 December VMh. — The weather contiinied 
 clear and pleasant. VVe continued o\ir jour- 
 ney in a southeasterly direction, over a broken 
 !\m\ hilly country, without timber, and show- 
 inij only scattered clumps of trees, from 
 which wo occasionally started deer. In a 
 few hours' ridi" wi' •.■eached a beautiful coun- 
 try of undidatinjj upland, openly timbered 
 with oaks, principally everi^reen, and watered 
 with small streams. We came hero among 
 Home vilhiires (>f Indians, of the hor.so-thief 
 tribes, who received us in an imfriendly man- 
 ner ; and. after a busy nifrht amouff them, 
 we retreated the ne.xt nioriiiiij,' tc the more 
 open country of the lower hills. Our party 
 was then a small one of 10 men, encumbered 
 with cattle, which we were driving to the 
 relief of the main body of tbe e.\|)edition, 
 which had been .sent southward from Walk- 
 er's lake, in tbe basin, along the eastern base 
 of the Sierra Nevada, and to which a valley 
 in the mountain, on the TultirS F^ako Fork, 
 had been appointed as a place of meeting. 
 
 In the evening, wo encamped at an eleva- 
 tion of 1,0(10 feet above the sea, latitude 1)7° 
 07' Al", still among the bills, on a spring hol- 
 low, leading to tiii:- (Ipper Joaquin river. 
 The day had been mild, w itii a faint sun, and 
 cloudy weather ; a'-.d, at siuisct, there were 
 ,=ome light clouds in the sky, with a north- 
 easterly wind, and a sunset temperature of 
 \:P \ pro!)ably rendered lower than usual 
 by the air from the mountains, as the foot- 
 hills have generally a warmer temperature 
 than the open valley. Klk wen' numerous 
 during the day. making, on one occasion, a 
 broken band, several miles in lenirtb. 
 
 On the 'Jlst. the tliermomeler at sunrise 
 was H-J.t! : the sky slightlv clouded, and. in 
 the course of tbe inoniing.tlie clouds gathered 
 heavy in the siiutbwe>t. Our route lay in a 
 Koutbeasterly direction, toward the ('ppcr 
 Joaipiin, crossin;: among rolling hills, a larje 
 stream and several sandy beds of allliu'iits to 
 the main river. On tbe trcs idong thi'se 
 streams, as well as on the hills, 1 noticed 
 ?ft(>,v,'>( s. About 2, in the afternoon, wo 
 
 I reached the Upper San. loaquin. Thof-froom 
 
 ' was here about 70 yards wide, and n-uch t'o 
 deep to be forded. A little way below, v>r 
 siu'ceeded in crossing, at a rapid made by ". 
 bed of rock, below wliicli. for sevi>ral niiles. 
 
 I tbe river ajipeared dei'p and not fordable. 
 
 I We followed down tbo stream for six or 
 
 I eight miles, and encampeij on its baid\s, or. 
 the verge of tbe valley jilai'!. .\t evening, 
 
 I rain b.^gan to fall, and, with this, the sprin^r 
 properly coimnenced. There had been a lit- 
 tle rain in November, but not sullicicnt tc 
 
 I revive vegetation. 
 
 l):ri iiilier -J:". — The temperature at sun- 
 rise was 39". There had been heavy rain 
 during tbe night, with high wind, and this 
 morning, there was a thick log, which U^gan 
 to go oil' at 8 o'clock, when the snri broke 
 through. We crossed an open plain, still in 
 a southeasterly direction, reaching, in about 
 twenty miles, the Tuhirex Luke river. This 
 is one of the largest and liandsome~t streams 
 in the valley, being about 100 yards broad, 
 and having, jierhaps, a larger body of fertile 
 land than any other. The broad alluvial 
 bottoms are well wooded with several species 
 of oaks. This is the principal atflnent to the 
 Tulard lake, (the bullruph lake,) a strip of 
 water, about 70 miles long, surrounded by 
 lowlands, rankly overgrown with bullrushcs, 
 and receiving all the rivers in the southoni 
 end of tbo valley. In times of Ingh water, 
 tho lake discharges into the Joaquin, making 
 a contiinions water line through the whole 
 extent of the valley. 
 
 W(' ascended this river to its sources in 
 the Sierra Nevada, about 50 miles from the 
 odgo of tbe valley, which we reached again 
 on tbo 7tb c{' Jitntianj, in the neighborhood 
 of tbo Tuiarii lake. We found tho temper- 
 ature much the same as in D-cemher. Fogs, 
 which rose from the lake in the morning, 
 were dense, cold, and penetrating, but, after 
 a few hours, gave ))l.ice to a fine day. Thr^ 
 face of the country had been much imjiroved 
 by tho rains which had fallen while wo re- 
 mained in the mountains. Several humble 
 pl.mts, among them the golden-llowered vio- 
 let [li'i/a cni^iiiilhii) and enxliiim cinil/iriinii. 
 tho first valley (lowers of the spring, which 
 courii'<l a suimy oxpo-^ure and warm sanil_\ 
 soil, were already in bloom on tbo southwest- 
 ern hill-slopps. In the fool bills of tho moim- 
 tains tbo bloom of tbe Hewers was earlio". 
 W(! travelled among mullitudiuous herds ol 
 elk, anielojie, and wild hfO'sos. Several o! 
 tlu' latter, which we killed for food, weri' 
 found to bo very fat. By tbe middle o( Ja'i- 
 iifirii, when we had readied tho lower Siu 
 Joaquin, the new green grass ciwo'ed tl.': 
 grounil among tb(> o])e!i timber on the r!( :: 
 river Ixittonis, and the spring vegetation h'. 
 taken a vigorous start. 
 
 'J'lie mean tein]K''ratuiT in the .loaqnin '.."'. 
 
 ley, during tl 
 December to 
 sunrise 2'.)" a 
 a faint breez( 
 tho morning, 
 ning. This 
 we had fduiiii 
 tains borderiii 
 5000 feet ah 
 throughout C 
 spring to bo 
 valleys below 
 
 During a 
 twoon the he 
 month of tin 
 January to t 
 tomporature ' 
 Ktinset, with 
 January, tbo 
 were thickly 
 more than ha 
 po])py, (pjsrh 
 racteristic pi 
 mnnophila in 
 ors, growing 
 bine, and cnw 
 to show a ,>• 
 wore fat, and 
 February, h; 
 on his back i 
 weigh a thou 
 obtained on t 
 um-n6 river, 
 is the most s 
 which this fi 
 March, the \ 
 was in the f 
 green oaks 
 riuni was 
 place of till 
 lands a ck 
 between tin 
 of yellow 
 tics of Lay 
 and largo 
 nemopliila 
 the ]irevaii 
 slopes to tl 
 growth of 
 oaks were 
 
 Observat 
 licnd of the 
 give, for the 
 to the 2-2d 
 sunset, the 
 and 17°. 
 moisture ci 
 12.71:2 grai 
 A siulde 
 remarked 
 to the Sinn 
 in the wea 
 the north 
 directly c.\ 
 
Smii .)(jiu|niii. TliP frtroom 
 
 yards \\'u\t\ anil iiiiicit I") 
 
 \ little Wily bnliiu, ur 
 
 iiijr. at a rapiil nmtic by ;: 
 
 which, lor spviTa! ipifps. 
 
 (i('('|) ami not tbnlahli'. 
 
 ill the strcain tor six or 
 
 iicainpiMJ on its banks, on 
 
 ilcy [ihiin. At fvcninj:. 
 
 md, with this, fill' spriiiLT 
 
 TIrtc hail bi'pii a lit- 
 
 MT, but not siitHiMunt tc 
 
 Tiio tpnipf'ratiiri' at snn- 
 
 rp hail bpcn heavy rain 
 
 with liiL'h winil, anil this 
 
 thick (bir, which l)pgaM 
 
 ■lock, when the snn broke 
 
 isseil an open jjlaiii, still in 
 
 rection, reachinsr, in ahont 
 
 'Vnhtrex Ijiikf river. This 
 
 st anil handsoine-t streams 
 
 ii; about 100 yards broad. 
 
 |)S, a lariTcr body of fertile 
 
 ither. The broad alluvial 
 
 ooiled with several species 
 
 the principal alllnent to the 
 
 bnllrnsh lake.) a. strip of 
 
 niles lonff, siirronndcd by 
 
 nerijrown with bnllrnshcs, 
 
 the rivers in the sontlioni 
 
 In times of hinrh w'ater, 
 
 's into the .Toaquin, making.' 
 
 er line throngh the whole 
 
 ey. 
 
 this river to its sources in 
 I, about ,50 miles from the 
 r, which we reacho<i airain 
 'iiianj, in the iipiiifhborhooil 
 <e. We found the temper- 
 une as in Dcnnbrr. Foijs, 
 the lake in the niorninij. 
 and jienetratinji, but, after 
 ) ])lace to a tine day. Tlr 
 y liad been much iinjiroveil 
 h bad fallen while we re- 
 luntains. iSeveral humble 
 ■m the ijolden-llowered vio- 
 ii) and iniiliiim cinitdriiiiii. 
 iwors of the sprinij, which 
 exposure and warm sandv 
 in bloom on the southwest- 
 II the foot hills of the nioini- 
 )f the llowcrs was e.arlie'. 
 ni^- niullitiidinous herds ol 
 wild horses. Several ,<'. 
 wo killed for food, werr 
 'at. Hy the middle of .A/'i- 
 id reiu'lied the lower >S;u 
 (rreen frrass cove 'ed th' 
 e open timber on the t'.i " 
 the sprinir veuetati'.'n hi I 
 tart, 
 '.'ratiirr in the Joa'jiiiii Wi! 
 
 UPON UPPKR CALIFORNI.\. 
 
 15 
 
 icy, dnring the journey, from the middle of 
 December to the midilli; of .lanuary, was at 
 sunrise 2'.)^ and at sunset h2". with irenerally 
 a faint breeze fnui the snowy mountains in 
 the morninij, and calm weather at the evo- 
 i!iii<r. This was a lower temperature than 
 we liad found in the oak reirionof the moun- 
 tains borderinff the valley, between 11)00 and 
 SOOO feet above the level of the sea. where, 
 throiiirhoul California, I have remarked the 
 sprint; to be more forward than in the o|)en 
 valleys below. 
 
 DuriniT a journev throuiih the valley, be- 
 tween the head of the Tulare lakes and the 
 month of the San .loaipiin. froii. .he IDtli 
 January to the llilli February, the mean 
 temperature was 38° at sunrise and 5:5" at 
 tiiinset, with frequent rains. At the end of 
 January, the river bottoms, in many ()laces, 
 were thickly covered with lu.xuriant frr"'^''. 
 more than half a foot lii!j;h. The California 
 po])py, (Esriischiil/ziii Citrifitrnira.) the cha- 
 racteristic plant of the California sprinfj ; 
 mrmophila insii^iiis, one of the earliest flow- 
 ers, growiiiif in beautiful fields of a delicate 
 blue, and crodiiim rirul'iriinn, were heginninn; 
 to pIiow a scattered bloom. Wild liorses 
 wore fat, and a Rrisly boar, killed on the '2i\ 
 February, had four inches thiclvioss of fat 
 on his back and belly, and was estimated to 
 weifih a thousand pounds. Salmon was first 
 obtained on the 4th February in the To-wal- 
 um-n6 river, which, accordiiiir to the Indians, 
 is the most southerly stream in the valley in 
 which this fish is found. By the middle of 
 March, the whole valley of the San Joaquin 
 was in the i'ull plory of spring ; the ever- 
 green oaks were in Hower, i^rraniitm ciciila- 
 rinm was generally in bloom, occupying the 
 place of the grass, and making on all the up- 
 lands a close sicard. The higher prairies 
 between the rivers presented unbroken fields 
 of yellow and orange-colored flowers, varie- 
 ties of Laijin and E^chnclwllzia Dalijurnica, 
 and large Iwuquets of the blue flowering 
 nemojihila nearer the strcam.s. These nuule 
 the prevailing bloom, and the sunny bill- 
 slopes to the river bottoms showed a varied 
 growth of lu.xuriant flowers. The white 
 oak.s were not yet in bloom. 
 
 Observations made in the valley, from the 
 tend of the Joacpiin to the C6"Uiii-nd river, 
 give, for the mean temperature, t'rom the 10th 
 to the 2-Jd March, 38^ at sunrise and 5ti° at 
 sunset, the dew point being '.Uf.l at sinirise, 
 and 17°. at sunset, and the quantity of 
 moi.sture contained in a cubic foot ol air being 
 t2.712 grains, and 1.072 grains, respectively. 
 
 A sudden change in the teiiiperatiire was 
 remarked in passing from tlie 'l\i-inil-iiiii-n(' 
 to the Sliitiishiiis river, there being no change 
 in the weather, and the wind continuing from 
 the norlluvesi. to v.hich we wi re more 
 directly ex|iosed on reaching the Stanislaus 
 
 river, where we opened on the bay. In tra- 
 vellinjj: down to the Stanislaus, the mean tem- 
 perature for five da' s (from the 11th to tlio 
 Kith) was 10°. 3 at sunrise. 7:i° at I p. m., 
 and ()3° ;it sunset ; and de'acheil observations 
 gave ()(>" at i) a. m.. 77° at noon, and 87^^ at 
 i! p. ni. 
 
 'I'be dew point was 38''.0, .05°. .5. T) i°.3 at 
 sunrise, at 1 in the afternoon, and at sunset ; 
 and the moisture contained in a cubic foot of 
 air 2.878 grains, ft.20!) grains, and 4.!)27 
 grains, respectively. 
 
 North of the Stanislaus for five days (from 
 Kjth to the 21st) the mean was 30°. ii at sun- 
 rise, .07° at 4 p. 111., and 1(1° at sunset. The 
 dew point was 34-'. 9 at sunrise, 37°. 1 at 4 
 p. ni.. and 40°.!) at sunset, and the quantity 
 of moisture in a cubic foot of air 2.fi71 grains, 
 2.983 grains, and 3.216 grains, at the corres- 
 ponding times. At sunrise of the 16th, on 
 the To-wal-mn-ne, the thennonieter was at 
 43°, and at sunrise of the next morning, on 
 the Stanislaus, at 35°. 
 
 The temperature was lowest on the night 
 of the 17th. At sunrise of the morning fol- 
 lowing the thermometer was at 27°, and il 
 was remarked that the frost afTected several 
 varieties of plants. On the 20th and 21st 
 there were some showers of rain, the first 
 since the end of February. These were 
 preceded by south-westerly winds. 
 
 During December and the first part of 
 January, which was still at the season of low 
 waters, we were easily able to ford all the 
 Joaquin tributaries. These begin to rise 
 with the rains, and are kept up by the melt- 
 ing snows in the summer. At the end 
 of January, the Joaquin required boating 
 throughout the valley, and the tributiirics 
 were forded with difficulty. 
 
 In the latter part of March, of a dry sea- 
 son, (1844,) we were obliged to boat the 
 Stanislaus, To-wal-nm-ne, and Au.x-um-ne, 
 and the San Joaquin was nowhere fordablo 
 below the bend where it is joined by the 
 slough of the Tular6 lake. On the 13tli of 
 March, 184fi, we were obliged to boat the 
 San Joaquin, the river being no.vbere ford- 
 able below the junction of the slough, and 
 the Indians guided us to some difHcult fords 
 of the large tributaries, where we succeeded 
 to cross with damage to our equipage. In 
 July of the same year, we boated the San 
 Joaquin below the Au.x-um-ne, it being no- 
 where fordable below the bend. 
 
 In June, 1847, the Joaquin was nowhere 
 fordable, being several hundred yards broad 
 as high up as the Anx-iim-iif river, even 
 with its hanks, and scattered in sloughs over 
 all its lower bottoms. All the large tribiittt- 
 ries, the Aux-mn-ne, To-wai-um-ne, Stanis- 
 laus, and Mo-kel-um-ne, ri'i|iiireii to be 
 boated, and were pouring down a deep vo 
 lume of water from the mountains, one tc 
 
16 
 
 gi-;o(;rapiiical mkmoir 
 
 Iwii liiiiidivil y:iril^ wide. Tlu' lii^'li wiitriv 
 c.aino t'nim tlio mclliiiir sno'.vs, uliicli, duriiiij: 
 till' p;ist wiiiliT, li;i(l a :'Ciiiiiiiliit('il to h (jrcat 
 doptli in liic inoimtaiiis. and, al the fud of 
 June, lay in the a|)|iroiicii(\--. to tlio Hi-ar river 
 pjis-«, on a hroadlh often or liftnen miles, and 
 this below the level of 7,:20l) feet. In rainy 
 sea.-oiis, whi'ii tli(> raiiH l)ei;in will) Novein- 
 l)(!r. and the snows lie on the aioiintaiiis till 
 July, this river is navitjalile for eiijlit inonth.i 
 of the year — ilie leiiiitii of tiiiio dependiiii^on 
 the soa.-dii. 
 
 The ('os-mii-iK' was the last triliutary of 
 the San Joaijuiii, and tli" last river of its val- 
 ley coiiiinj;- down tVoni. the Sierra Nevada. 
 The Rid il ■ liis AiiifririDins was the first tri- 
 butary of the valley of the Sacranienio, also 
 coniinir down, like all the respeetable tribu- 
 taries of both rivers, from the snowy sum- 
 mit and rainy side of the irreat Sierra. Tlio 
 two valleys are tmr, only discriniinated in de- 
 scription or reference by the iiaino of the 
 river which traverses the respective lialves, 
 as seen in the map. We entered the part of 
 the valley which takes the name of its river, 
 Sacrntii'tnlo, on the 21st day of March, nroinfj 
 north, and continued our observations on 
 that valley. 
 
 Wo HMuained several days on the Rio do 
 los Americanos, to recruit our animals on the 
 abundant ranjie between the Sacramento and 
 the hills. During this time the thermometer 
 was at 35° at sunrise, 64° at o'ckick in the 
 morninif, 63° at noon, ti3° at '2 in the after- 
 noon, Gl° at 1, and .53" at sun.scf, the dew- 
 point at correspondinjf times beinn; 3-1°. 0, 
 49°.9, 4f)°.G, 40°.l, 51°.G. 43'\7 ; and the 
 quantity of moisture in a cubic foot of air 
 boin;T 2.519 grs., 4.'235 jrrs., 3.808 grs., 
 4.1bl grs., 4.484 grs., 3.4G9 grs. 
 
 We left the Rio do los Americanos on the 
 24th, ten miles above tlie mouth, travelling a 
 little east of north, in the direction of the 
 Bear river settlements, at the foot of the 
 Emigrant pass. The road led among oak 
 limber, over ground slightly undulating, cov- 
 ered with grass intermingled with flowers. 
 The thermometer at 4 was 7G", and at sun- 
 set C0° ; the weather clear. 
 
 At sunrise of the 25tli, the temperature 
 was 36°, with an easterly wind and clear 
 sky. In about thirty miles iravel to the 
 north, we reached the rancho of Jlr. Koyser, 
 on Bear river; an affluent to Fvulher river, 
 the largest tributary of the Sacramento. 
 The route lay over an undulating country — 
 more so as (uir course brought us nearer the 
 mountains — wooded with oaks and shrubbery 
 in blossom, with small prairies iiitorveniu:'. 
 Many plants were in flower, and aiiKing 
 them the Caliloruia poppy, unusually mag- 
 nificent. It is the charai'teristic bloom of 
 Catifontifi at tliis season, anil the Bear river 
 oottoms, near the hills, were covered with it. 
 
 We (tossimI sev(>ral small streams, and fonim 
 the ground miry from the recent rai is. '"he 
 leniperalun- at 1 in the afternoon was 70°, 
 and al sunset t>H°, with an ea.-.terly wind, and 
 the night brinlit and clear. 
 
 The morning of the •J')\h wa-; c!e:i". (Mid 
 warmer than usual; the wind sontheasie'iy, 
 and the tomperatiir'^ 40". We travelli-d 
 across the valley plain, and in ab'.ut si.vKeii 
 miles reached Feather river, at twentysi.x 
 miles l>om its juiu'tion with t'le .Sacramento, 
 near till' mouth of the V'l//'/, so called froui 
 a village of Iniliinis who live on it. The 
 river has high banks — twenty or thirty f.-i'l — 
 and was here 150 yards widi-, a deep, navi- 
 gable stream. The Indians aidi'd us a'-ro.;i; 
 the river with canoes and small rafts. E.\- 
 tending along the bank in front of the vil- 
 lage, was a range of wicker cribs, about 
 twelve feet higli. partly tilled with what is 
 there the Indians' stall' of life — acorns. A 
 collection of huts, shaped like boe-hi'.es, with 
 iwked Indians sinining themselves on the 
 tops, and these acorn cribs, are the jiroini- 
 nent objects in an Indian village. 
 
 There is a tine farm, or rancho, on the 
 Vuva. stocked with about 3,000 head of cat- 
 tle, and cultivated principally in wheat, with 
 some other grains and vegetables, which are 
 carrieil, by means of the river, to a market at 
 San Francisco. Mr. Cordiia, a native of 
 (Jeriiiany, who is proprietor of the place, in- 
 formed me that his average harvest of wheat 
 was about twenty-live bushels to the acre, 
 which he supposed would be about the pro- 
 duct of the wlieat lands in the Sacramento 
 valley. The labor on this and other farms 
 in the valley is performed by Indians. 
 I The temperature here was 74°. at 2 in 
 j the afternoon, 71°. at 4, and 69°. at sunset, 
 1 with a northeasterly wind ami clear sky. 
 ! Al sunrise of the 27lh the temperature 
 i w.as 42°., clear, v^itli a nortlicasterly wind. 
 I We travelled northwardly, up the rigiit bank 
 of the river, which was wooded v\'ith largo 
 ! white and evergreen oaks, interspersed with 
 [ thickets of shrubbery in full bloom. We 
 made a pleasant journey of twenty-.seven 
 I miles, and encamped at the bend of the river, 
 where it turns from the course across the 
 valley to run southerly to its junction with 
 the Sacramento. The thermometer at sun- 
 sot was at 67°, sky partially clouded, with 
 southerly wind. 
 
 The thermometer at sunrise on the 28tl! 
 was at 46. °5., with a northea.sterly wind. 
 The road was over an open plain, witii a few 
 small sloughs or creeks that do not roach 
 the river. After travelling about fifteen 
 iiiilcs we encamped on Hiillf creek, a beau- 
 tiful stream of clear water about fifty yards 
 wide, with a bold current running all tlio 
 year, ll has largo fertile bottoms, wcntded 
 with open groves, and having u luxuriiiut 
 
 ijM'.vln of pea 
 
 •jaks here weri 
 
 fl.'iC raiichos 
 
 rides the stre; 
 
 seine of wliicl 
 
 cIio iiere is o 
 
 '(jolonged to m; 
 
 rarv.hcriii (IncI 
 
 of tlie Indians 
 
 and ofl'als of a 
 
 scntcil to lis. 
 
 The thcrnioiiii 
 
 at 70'-\, two h 
 
 sunset : the ' 
 
 only in the wi 
 
 The tempo 
 
 day was 5U°, 
 
 west, which 
 
 .lOiiJiwest wii 
 
 \'v fi travelled 
 
 Fine creek, a 
 
 tonis of fertile 
 
 large and ban 
 
 six feet in dia 
 
 in height. A 
 
 monieter sliov 
 
 the sky clear, 
 
 March 30.- 
 
 clouds over tl 
 
 sant morning 
 
 46° 5, and sc 
 
 is said, in the 
 
 of high wate 
 
 boltoms ot till 
 
 the tributarie 
 
 are seen, and 
 
 tinuing uj) tli 
 
 distance a 1; 
 
 about thirty-l 
 
 rbad was ove 
 
 mento, liavin 
 
 erally twu r,'. 
 
 twelve or hft 
 
 mountains. 
 
 miles to uiic 
 
 here make n 
 
 In the afteri 
 
 mouth, wo e 
 
 of these be; 
 
 inonto. It 
 
 bottom Ian 
 
 wooded wit I 
 
 more {plalai 
 
 bearing its 
 
 and peculia 
 
 native of (i 
 
 here, which 
 
 bringing in 
 
 rally throu 
 
 largo retiiri 
 
 experiment 
 
 gucccoded 
 
 vineyard, fi 
 
 consiilorod 
 
ii'.ul! slrejiiu.-, Mill] fonim 
 |>iji tlif recent mi is. Tlin 
 llie :i!'teriii)()n w;is 70°, 
 
 Ivilli Mil iM.-terlv wiiul 
 |l cleMr. 
 
 tlie L'jlh w. 
 I; the wind 
 
 Mm: 
 
 cie.i:- 
 
 Ml(i 
 
 oiiliiuMsli'-ly, 
 t\" 1(1". \Vc IrM\el|,:.,i 
 lain, Mild iu Mli'iut si;-l(en 
 
 llher nver. 
 
 twcntv-.-i.vc 
 
 KUl with t'le SMcrMiiu'liti), 
 
 > 
 
 mil, SI) CM 
 
 lied I, 
 
 (I'll 
 
 lis wild live nil it. 
 
 Is — twenty ortliirly f-.'? 
 
 lyMril 
 
 |e IiidiMlls Miileil lis 
 
 Wide, a deep, iiMvi- 
 
 iiiil 
 
 SI I ml I rulls 
 
 liMiik 
 
 M<TO;,-s 
 
 E.x- 
 
 liMiiU 111 Iroiil (.1 il](. vii- 
 of wiidier erihs, mIioiiI 
 |)Mi-lly tilled Willi wliMt is 
 stMll'ol' lil'e — Mcorns. A 
 iM|)ed like lioe-lii', es.witli 
 iniiiir themselves on t)io 
 irn crihs, nre the |iroini. 
 iidiali vilJMife. 
 iMrni, or nuiclui, on the 
 iihoiit 3,0U0 lu'Md of rat- 
 principMlly in wheMt, with 
 iind veirctMblos, which are 
 )rtlio river, to a market at 
 Ir. (.'ordiia, ,i iiutivo of 
 roprietor of the jilaco, in- 
 avernfje harvest of wheat 
 live bushels to the acre, 
 1 would ho Mhoiit the pro- 
 lands in the KMcrMinento 
 on this and other farins 
 brined by Indian.s. 
 ; here was 7 1". at 3 in 
 at 4, and 09°. at .sunset, 
 r wind and clear sky. 
 le 27tli the temperature 
 itli a no-theasterlv wind, 
 .vardly, r,p the riirht bank 
 was wooded with larcje 
 n oaks, intor.sper.sed wiTh 
 cry in full bloom. We 
 )iiriiey of twenty-seven 
 ] at the bend of the river, 
 1 the course acros.s the 
 eriy to its junction with 
 riie tlierinoiiieter at sun- 
 r partially clouded, with 
 
 ■ at sunrise on the 28lh 
 li a northea-sterlv wind. 
 Ill open plain, witii a few 
 eeks that do not roach 
 :ravellinir about (iftoen 
 on liiiilf creek, a beaii- 
 
 ■ water about fifty yards 
 iirrent riinninir "a|[ tlie 
 fertile bottmiis. wejded 
 ad liaviny; a kuuriaiit 
 
 UPON UI'l'Kll CALIKOii.Nl.V 
 
 n 
 
 .nvtii of pea vine aniony; the fjra>s. 'I'l 
 
 T 
 
 le seasons lire not vol siinineii 
 
 Illy ; tu! 
 
 cr- 
 
 oak? here were ^ettiiiu- into cri'iieral bleoiii. | stood, and loo little lias been lioii.' in atrricu 
 [•li'iC riiiichos liMVe been .selected on both tiire, to airord certain knowledLre of the ca-. 
 
 ]. 
 
 .-iJes the stream, 
 
 and stocked with cattle. 
 
 fat. 
 
 3Giiie o( which were now very 
 cho here is owned by Nea., who lurmerly 
 bclonir<'d to my e.\ploriiirr parly. 'I'liere is a 
 ranr.h>riii (Indian villai;e) near by, and some 
 of tlie Indians {gladly ran races for the bead 
 and ofl'als of a fat cow which had been pre- 
 sented to us. They were fiilirc/y naked. 
 The llr.'rmoiiieter at 2 in the afternoon was 
 
 at 70'-\, two hours later at 7 l" 
 
 1(1 (ifj 
 
 at 
 
 lacities of the coiiiilr 
 
 This I 
 
 I rill IS III the 
 
 ■lUth deirree of latitude; our pn-'linn mi the 
 river beiii^' in ;{<)" !)~' do", and loniritiido 
 121" 5l)' 1 1" west from (Ireeiiwuli. am 
 
 vatioii lUHivo the sea HiW feet. 
 
 .M 
 
 1 ele- 
 
 Milt three 
 
 miles alnive the mouth of this streaiu are the 
 first ra))iils — the present head of iiaviijalion 
 — ill the Sacraiiiento river, wliiih, from the 
 rapiils to its mouth in the bav, is more than 
 
 •JDO mile: 
 
 loll;.', and increMsiii^r in breadth 
 
 sunset: the wind east, and the sky clear I Irom liJO yards to GOO yard- in the loweJ 
 
 onl 
 
 V in the west. 
 
 tl 
 
 le teiiiperature at sunrise ol 
 r.i.o 
 
 till 
 
 ne.xt 
 
 day was 50", with cumuli in the south and 
 west, which left a clear sky at 9, willi a 
 .if'itliwest wind, and lemperature of H 1*^. 
 \ V e travelled 'JO miles, and encamped on 
 Fuie creek, another line stream, with bot- 
 toms of fertile land, wooded with ^rroves of 
 large and liaiulsomo oaks, some atlaiiilnjr to 
 six I'eet in diameter, and forty to seventy feet 
 in heijfht. At 4 in the afternoon the ther- 
 mometer showed 7 l" and Gl° at sunset ; and 
 the sky clear, e.veept in the horizon. 
 
 March 30. — 'I'iie sun rose in masses of 
 clouds over the eastern mounutiiis. A plea- 
 sant moriiiiiir, with a sunrise temperature of 
 46° 6, and some mnsquilocs — never seen, as 
 is said, in the coast country ; but at seasons 
 of liijjh water abundant and venomous in the 
 bottoms of the Joaquin aud Sacramento. On 
 the tributaries nearer the mountain but few 
 are seen, and those ^'o with the sun. Con- 
 tinuing up the valley, we crossed in a short 
 distance a lar;^e wooded creek, liaving now 
 about thirty-five feet breadth of water. Our 
 road was over an upland prairie of the Sacra- 
 mento, having a yellowish, gravelly soil, gen- 
 erally two or three miles from the river, and 
 twelve or hftecn from the foot of the eastern 
 mountains. <Jn the west it was 26 or 30 
 miles to uie foot of the mountains, which 
 here make a bed of high and broken ranges. 
 In the afternoon, about lialf a mile above its 
 mouth, we encamped on Deer creek, another 
 of these beautiful tributaries to the Sacra- 
 mento. It has the usual broad and fertile 
 bottom lands common to these streams, 
 wooded with groves of oak and a large syca- 
 more {plalnnus occi(/f«to/i.s), distinguished by 
 bearing its balls in strings of three to five, 
 and peculiar to California. Mr. Lassen, a 
 native of (iermany, has established a rancho 
 here, which ho has stocked, and is griidtially 
 bringing into cultivation. Wheat, as gene- 
 rally throughout the north country, gives 
 large returns ; coltoii, planted in the way of 
 e.xperiment, was not injured by frost, and 
 succeeded well : ami he has lately planted a 
 vineyard, for wiiicli the Sacraiiienio vallev is 
 cousidorod to iie suigiilar.v wel: .idao'ed. 
 
 part of its coiirs 
 
 1) 
 
 iiriiig si.x ilav' 
 
 that 
 
 we remaine 
 
 liere, 
 
 from the 30lh of March to tin 
 f 
 
 .'jih of Apri 
 
 le mean teiiiperature was to at sunrise, 
 52° ..5 at 9 in the morning, 57°. 2 at noon, 
 59° .4 at 2 in the afternoon. 5^° .8 at 4, and 
 52° at sunset; Mt the corres|)oiidiiig timo.'j 
 the dew point WMs at 37° .0, 11° .0,38° .1, 
 39° .(), 14° .9, 10° .5 ; and the moisture in a 
 cubic foot of air 2.838 grs., 3.179 grs., 2.936 
 grs., 3.034 grs., 3.7()G grs., 3.150 grs., re- 
 spectively. Much cloudy weather and some 
 showers of rain, during this interval, con- 
 siderably reduced the tem|>eratiire, which 
 ro.se with line weather on the 5tli. Salmon 
 was now abundant in the Sacramento. Those 
 which we obtained were generally between 
 three and four feet in length, and appeared to 
 be of two distinct kinds. It is said that as 
 many as four diflerent kinds ascend the river 
 at dilTeront periods. The great aliiiiidaiice 
 in which this fish is found gives it, an im- 
 portant place among the resources of tlie 
 country. The salmon crowd in immense 
 numbers up the Unipqua, TIamath, and 
 Trinity rivers, and into every little river and 
 creek on the coast north of the Hay San 
 Francisco, ascending the river Tlamalh to 
 the lake near its source, which is upwards 
 of 4,000 feet above the sea, and distant from 
 it only about 200 miles. 
 
 In the evening of the 5th we resumed 
 j our journey northward, and eiicamped on a 
 1 little creek, near the Sacramento, where an 
 I emigrant from " the States" was establishing 
 1 himself, and had already built a house. It is 
 ; a handsome place, wooded with groves of 
 i oak, and along the creek are sycamore, ash, 
 I cotton-wood, and willmv. The day was fine, 
 
 with a northeast wind. 
 ; The temperature at sunrise the ne.xt day 
 (April (ith), was 42°, with a northeasterly 
 wind. We continued up the Sacramento, 
 which we crossed in canoes at a farm on the 
 riiiht bank of the river. The Sacramento 
 was here about 1 10 yards wide, and with the 
 actual stage of water, which I was informed 
 conliiiueil several months, navigable for a 
 steamboat. We eiiciiiiipi'il a fi w miles above, 
 on ii creek wuujeu ^.liiicijia'ly witli largo 
 
18 
 
 (;i;iH;ifAi'iiiCAL memoir 
 
 oal;s. (Inir-s was sued mid abiuidimt, with 
 wild (iat> and poa-vliic in liif liultoiiiH. The 
 fl.iy was liiip, with a cool northwcstrrly 
 jrcczo, whi(h had in it tiio iiir of th(3 hi};li 
 niomilaius. Tho wild oats iicro wero nut 
 yet iicadrd. 
 
 Till! siKiwy /''■"'.■ '/ Shdsll borp diroctly 
 north, shu«iii;r mit iii;j;h above the otlii-r 
 mountaiiis, TcmpiTalnre at siiii.^ct 67", 
 with a west wind and sliy partly clDudod. 
 
 Aiiril, 7. — 'I'bc tonipi'ratin-eat suni-ise was 
 37°, with a nioi>t air; and a faintly clouded 
 sky indicati'd that the wind was Koiilherly 
 alonj; the eua.-t. We travelled towards the 
 Shasll peal;, the nioinitain rannfcs, on both 
 Bides of the Nalloys, l)ein|r iiifih and nigfjed, 
 and snow-co\ere(l. Some remarkable jieaks 
 in tlic Sierra, to the eastward, are called tlw 
 Sistern, and, nearly opposite, the Coast Ilanye 
 shows n jiroiiiinent peak, wliicii wc liavo 
 called jMonnt Linn. 
 
 Leavin;f the Sacramento, at n stream called 
 Red Bank rn-xk, and continuing to the iiead 
 of one of its forks, wo entered on a liif;li and 
 Bomewhat broken upland, timbered witii at 
 least four varieties of oaks, with maiiMiiila 
 (arbutus Mi'nzksii) and other shrubbery in- 
 terspersed. A remarkable species of pine, 
 having leaves in threes, (.sometimes six to 
 nine inches long.) with bluish foliage, and 
 a spreading, oak-shaped top, was scattered 
 tliroiigh the timber. 1 liavo remarked that 
 tliis tree grows lower down the mountains 
 than tne other pines, being found familiarly 
 associated with the oaks, the lirst met after 
 leaving tlie open valleys, and seeming to like 
 a warm climate. Flowers were as usual 
 abundant. The splendid California poppy 
 characterized all tlie route along the valley. 
 A species of clover was in bloom, and the 
 berries of the mansani/a were beginning to 
 redden on some trees, while on others they 
 were still in bloom. VVe encamped, at an 
 elevation of about 1,000 feet above the sea, 
 on a large stream called Cottonwood creek, 
 wooded on the bottoms with oaks, and with 
 cotton-woods along the bed, which is sandy 
 and gravelly. The water was at this time 
 about twenty yards wide, but is frequently 
 fifty. The face of the country traversed 
 during the day was gravelly, and the bottoms 
 of the creek where wo encamped have a 
 sandy soil. 
 
 There are six or seven ranchrrias of In- 
 dians on the Sacramento river between the 
 farm where we had crossed the Sacramento 
 and the mouth of this creek, and many others 
 in the mountains about the heads of these 
 streams. 
 
 The next morning was cloudy, threatening 
 rain, but the sky grew brighter as the sun 
 rose, and a south'-rly wind changed to north- 
 west, which bvDMiyii!, as if never fails to 
 bring, clear weather. 
 
 We cdntinned \C< miles up the valley, arid 
 encamped on the Sacrananito river. In ttiO 
 afleriiooi\ (Ajiril 8) the weather iigain grew 
 thick, and in the evening rain began to tiill 
 in the valley and snow <'n the inoiintains. 
 We were now tiear th'^ bead of the lower 
 valley, and the face of the country .'ind the 
 weatiier began sen.-llily to show the intluonco 
 of the rugged mountains whicb .surround 
 and terminate it. 
 
 The valley of the Sacramento is divided 
 into up[)er and lower — the lower t'vo hun- 
 dred miles long, the uppi^r aliout fine hun- 
 dreii ; and the latter not merely entitled to 
 the di-tiiu;tion of upper, as being higher up 
 on the river, iiut also as having a superior 
 elevali(m of some lhousan(N(if feet above it. 
 'J'iie divi.-'ion is strongly and geographically 
 marked. The Sbastl peak staiiils at the 
 head of the lower valley, in the forks of tlic 
 river, rising from a bas(> of about 1.000 feet, 
 out of a forest of heavy timber. It ascends 
 like an inmiense colimni upwards of 1-1,000 
 feet, (nearly the height of .Mont IManc.) the 
 summit glistening with snow, and visible, 
 from favorable points of view, at a distance 
 of 140 ni'les down the valley. The river 
 here, in descending from the upper valley, 
 plunges down through a rafiim, falling '2,000 
 feet in twenty miles. Tliis upper valley is 
 100 miles long, heavily timbered, the climate 
 and productions modilled by its altitude, itt 
 more noithern position, and the proximity and 
 elevation of the neighboring m(unitains cov- 
 ered with snow. It contains valleys of ara- 
 ble land, and is deemed capable of settle- 
 ment. Added to the lower valley, it makes 
 the whole valley of the Sacramento 300 
 miles long. 
 
 April 9. — At 10 o'clock the rain which 
 commenced the previous evening had ceased, 
 and the clouds clearing away, we boated the 
 river, and continued our journey eastward 
 toward the foot of the Sierra, "jiie Sacra- 
 mento bottoms hero are broad and prettily 
 wooded, with soil of a sandy character. Our 
 way led through very handsome, open woods, 
 principally of oaks, mingled with a considera- 
 ble quantity of the oak-shaped pine. Inter- 
 spersed among these wero bouquets or thick- 
 ets of mansanita, and an abundant white-flow- 
 ering shrub, now entirely covered with small 
 blossoms. The head of the valley here 
 (lower valley) is watered i)y many small 
 streams, having fertile bottom lands, with a 
 good range of grass and acorns. In about 
 six miles wo crossed a creek '20 or '25 feet 
 wide, and several miles farther descended 
 into the broad bottoms of a swift stream about 
 20 yards wide, called Cow creek, so named 
 as being the range of a small hand of cattle, 
 which ran oil" here from a party on tiicir wav 
 to Oregon. They are eniirelv wild, and are 
 hunted like other game. A large bdiid of 
 
(1 Ifi luilp? up tli(^ valley, nntt 
 ic Sacraiiii'iilii river. In tho 
 I S) the wi'iiilicr iiirain ^rnw 
 I' cvciiip^' mill lici::m Id liill 
 lul >-iio\v i'u the iiiHiiiitaiiiH, 
 nciir ill'"' li(>iu! Ill' llif Idwer 
 liicc III' tlie Cdiiiitrv and the 
 scn.-lljly loslidw the iiitliicnco 
 iiidiiiitiiiii.-' wliirl' stiri'diind 
 
 I tilt' t^:i( raiiicnlo ir. divided 
 lower — the lower U\o liiiii- 
 ■, tiie M|i|)er nhoiit erne Inin- 
 atler not merely entitled to 
 if U|)|)er, as lieiii;; hiil'lier up 
 I al.-.o as haviii<r a siijierior 
 i(> thonsaiid< (if feet ahovo it. 
 stninuly and (i-cdirrapliically 
 Siiastl peak stands a! tilt? 
 vcr valley, in the forUs (if the 
 1111 a liaM" df about 1.01)0 feot, 
 df heavy tiiiilier. It ascends 
 e edliinm n|)wards of 11,000 
 e iieifriit df Mdiit IJlanc.) the 
 iiifr with SHOW, aiid visible, 
 piiiiits df view, iit a distance 
 ilowii the valley, Tiie river 
 idiiiir fnuii the upper valley, 
 throiiiih a cunim. falliiijj '2,000 
 miles. 'J'his upper valley is 
 , heavily timbered, tho climate 
 IS nuKlilied by its altitude, ita 
 position, and tho pro.xiinity and 
 e nein;!! boring nionntains cov- 
 V. It contains valleys of ara- 
 is deemed capable of settle- 
 to tho lower valley, it makes 
 lley of the Sacramento 300 
 
 t 10 o'clock tho rain which 
 e previous cveninp; had ceased, 
 cleariiiir away, we lx)ated the 
 itinued our journey eastward 
 t of the Sierra. The Sacra- 
 1 here are broad and prettily 
 oil of a sandy character. Our 
 ;h very handsome, open woods, 
 aks, mingled with a considera- 
 ' the oak-shaped pine. Inter- 
 '. these were bouquets or thick- 
 kt, and an abundant white-flow- 
 JW entirely covered with .small 
 le head of tho valley here 
 ) is watered by many small 
 '^ fertile bottom" lands, with a 
 grass and acorns. In about 
 crossed a creek 20 or 25 (cei 
 eral miles farther descended 
 mttoms of a swill stream about 
 , called Cow creek, s(; named 
 njfo of a small band of cattle, 
 here frciia a party on their wav 
 'bey are eiiiirely wild, and .ire 
 licr e-ame. A "lartie bo.:,d of 
 
 UPON ITPKR TAMFORNIA. 
 
 19 
 
 nT)'.>:.-p^ was seen m the liiulier. mil live or ' 
 ■■v ct.""r came darliiitf Ihroujjh the w.imls. i 
 \\\ a'ltelopo and :"'\.'ral deer were killed. 
 "i\. re a]ipear to be two species of I lir.-e deer j 
 — ill df the kind e-eiierally called black- 
 MU^^ \ one. a larirer >pecies freipieniinir the 
 .iiriries and lnwer L;rdiii!ils ; the other, iiuich 
 . iier. and I'diiin! in the i;;diintaiiis only. 
 Tr-' mountains in tin- northeast were black 
 v.'iili clouds wli'ii \v.' reached the creek, and 
 ■■e,'y soon .' lie^'e bail ^tdrln burst down on 
 11.', scatterini,' our animals and cdverin;Lr the 
 j'-^'und an inch in depth w illi li.iilstones about 
 t!:: -izo of wild cherries. The face of the 
 c.,>in,iry appeared as whitened by a fail of 
 snow, and the wealber became iinpleasanlly 
 cnid. 'i'he eveniiej closed in with rain, and 
 t,huiii!;r ri.lliiiir aniiiiul llie bills. Onreleva- 
 tic;i J.TiMi'is between l.OOOand 1.10(1 feet. 
 At .-iiiiriso the ne\t mdrninj; the tliermoui- 
 ctor was at .TIJ". The surrouniliuLr nioun- 
 ta'.t'.s showed a cdiitiiiuiiii.-. liiu^ df snow, and 
 tho liiifh ))eaks Iddkeil wintry. Turning; to 
 tho soiitbwin'd. we retraced our steps down 
 tho valley, ;'.!id reached .Mr. Lassen"s, on 
 Deer river, on the eveiiinu'of the 11th. 'J'he 
 Sacramento botloms between .Antelope and 
 Deer river were covered with oats, which 
 had attained their full lieinbt. pi-owin^ as in 
 sow n fields. The country here exhibited the 
 maturity of spriiiir. The California pojipy 
 was every where foriuiiifj ;-eod pods, and 
 many jilants were in (lower and seed ton-ether. 
 Some varieties of clover were just befi'innini; 
 to bloom. By the middle of the month the 
 seed vessels of the California poppy, which, 
 from its characteristic abundance, is a promi- 
 nent feature in the verrotation, had attained 
 their full size ; but the seeds of this and 
 many other plants, althouoh fully formed, 
 were still fireen colored, and not entirely 
 ripe. At this time I obtained from the San 
 .Toaqnin valley seeds of the jioppy, and other 
 plants, black and fully ri]ie, while they still 
 remained preen in tiiis part of the Sacra- 
 mento — the elVect of a warmer climate in 
 the valley of the San Joaquin. The moan 
 temperature for 14 davs, from the lOlh to the 
 24th of April, was 43° at sunrise, .08° at 9 
 in the morning, 04° at noon, ()li° at 2 in the 
 afternoon, bit" at 4, and 58° at sunset, (lati- 
 tude 40°.) The thermonieter rainred at sun- 
 rise from 38° to 51°, at 4 (wlJch is the hot- 
 test of those hours of the day when the 
 temperature was noted) from 53'^^ to 88°, 
 and at sunset from 4i»'' to ().0°. The dew 
 po, It was 40. "3 at sunri.se, 47.°3 at !) in the 
 morninp-, 46.°1 at noon, 4!). "2 at 2 in the af- 
 ternoon, 4I).°2 at 4, and 4()."(1 at sunset ; 
 and the quantity ol' moisture in a cubic foot 
 of air at correspondinij times was 3.ers.l0l, 
 3.frrs.882, 3.i.rrs.Si)7. 4.<;rs.213, 4.uts.217, 
 o.urs.881, respectively. 'i'lie winds tluc- 
 tiialed between iiiirtliwe-t and southeast, the 
 
 teiiipeiTliHT depeiidiii'^ more iip.ni the state 
 of ilie sky than the direction oi the winds — 
 a clouded sky ah', ays lnwirinp the llieruidme- 
 ter tilteen or twenty decrees in a sli'irt time 
 Kiir the greater iniinber iif the davs abiive 
 [iiveii. the sl;y \\;\' id\creiland tlie atiiio- 
 sjihere frequently thick, wil 
 
 from t!io lIMh to the 
 On the 2.')lli .Mav, 
 
 nil. 
 
 :iil 
 
 rain at intervals 
 to this 
 
 \\i' r.'tiirri 
 place (I.assen'sj iVdiu an e.xcur-ion to the 
 Upper SacraiM'iild. The plant- we bad left 
 in bloom weiv now ireiierallv in .-eed ; and 
 many, iiicliiilin r the ciraructerislic plants, 
 perfectly ripe. The mean temperature df a 
 W'W days endiiii; .May. was 5 l°.7 at sunrise, 
 70".() at noon, ami i;7".3 at siiii.set. Tra- 
 vellinir soiiih into the more open and wider 
 |)art of the valley where tho bordering 
 mountains are lower :vnd showed less snow, 
 tho temperature increasiil rapidly, .\t the 
 Ifiil/i's — an isolated moinilaiii ridpe about si,\ 
 miles loiiij and .about 2.'i!in leet above tho 
 sea — the iiiorniups were pleasantly cool for 
 a few hours, but before ten the heat of the 
 Mill became very preat. tlidunh usually tem- 
 jiered by a refreshiui,' breeze. The beat 
 was usually the ixreatest abiiut fdiir in tho 
 aftenidiin. 'J'he mean temperature from 
 May 27th to .lune (itli, was til", at sunrise, 
 7it°. at nine in the morninix, 80'-'. at noon, 
 i)l)°. at two in the afternoon, (M°. at four, 
 and 80°. at sunset, ranirin;: from 53". to 
 79". at sunrise— from 85^. to 98=". at four 
 in the afternoon — and from 73°. to 89". at 
 sunset. Tho place of observation was at 
 the eastern base of the H)i!lrs. about SOO 
 feet above tho sea, latitude 39" 12', and one 
 of the warmest situations in the Sacramonto 
 vallev. At corresiiondintf times the dew 
 point was ,it .50.",), f>2.°l. 00. ".5, (;8.°2, 
 ()H."0, 00. "9, and the quantity of nioistnre 
 in a cubic foot ol' air 5.ers.253, O.srs.318, 
 7.<rrs.l91.7.j;is.!9.5.7.frrs.l04,and7!i;TS.269 
 respectively. We felt the heat here more 
 sensibly than at any other place where our 
 journeying brought us in California. The 
 Imntcrs always left the camp before daylirrht, 
 and were in by nine o'clock, after which the 
 sun firew hot. (Jauio was very fat and 
 abundant; upwards of eiplily deer, elk, and 
 hear were killed in oiit> morniuir. The ranijc 
 consisted of e.\ccllent <rrasses, wild oats in 
 lields, red and other varieties of clover, 
 some of which were now in mature seed 
 and others bojiinninj;' to ilowcr. C)ats were 
 now dryiuir in level j)laces where exposed 
 to the full influence of the sun, remainin 
 frreen in moister places and on the hi 
 slopes. 
 
 The mean temperature of the open valley 
 between the Buttes and tho .American fork 
 from the 8th to the 21st .Fuue. was fi7". at 
 sunrise. 74" at nine in the moriiiiii::, 85" at 
 noon. 87^ at two in tlif al'ternoon, 88°. at 
 
30 
 
 GiXHWi.vrincAL :\ii;.MoiR 
 
 Coiir, iinil 77". iit i^iiiii-it ; riui;;lM^' iit r^imrii^c 
 from ."il". t(.(;i". ; at 1 iVoiii si", lo <|-"., 
 mid ill .MiMM't Irom 71". to S,-)°. 'I'lic di'w 
 point ill ci rropoiulin^jj tiiiirs \\\\.< ,02". S, 
 6S°.H. i;:: .1. iiti".H, (ij".."), (iO".7, 1111(1 tlii< 
 (limntity of iiioir-tiirc in u ciiliic foot of iiir 
 bi'iiij; -I. (is:; jjr.-i., 5.70!> jrrs., (i.U^O (,'rs., 
 7.'_'I7 frrs , ().;t77 i;rs.. T).!)';} 1,'r.-;.. rc-^in-rt- 
 ivoly. 
 
 W'fslrrn Shii'i- III' Ihr Surra \i aula. — 
 Tlic wo-tcrii lliiiik of this Sicrni lu^lon^'s lo 
 tlio iimriliiiii' rcoion of ("!ilifoiiiiii. and is cii- 
 naljjf of iiildiii'j nrc'iitly lo ils vaiiii'. It is a 
 ioii;j, widr slo|ii', timlirrcd and yrassy, uilli 
 ilitorvals of aralilo land, copiously watered 
 with mnncroiis and hold streams, and without 
 tilt; colli which its name and altitndf mifiht 
 imply. In lentil li it is iho whohr cvtenl of 
 tho lonfT valley at its hase, live hundred 
 miles. In hreadth,it is from forty to seventy 
 milp.s from the smriniit of the mountain to 
 the termination ol' the foot hills in the oilije 
 of the valleys below, and almost the whole 
 of it iuailahle for some nsol'nl purpose — 
 timber, ])astura;;'e, some arable land, mills, 
 quarries — and so situated as lo be conven- 
 ient for lisp, the wide slope of tho mountain 
 beinifof easy and pnicticable descent. 'J'ini- 
 lier liolds \\\o lirst place in the advantaijes of 
 this slope, the whole beinii hcivily wooded, 
 first with oaks, which ])redominate to about 
 half the elevation of I he monnlaiii ; and then 
 with pines, cypress, and cedars, the pines 
 predominatini; ; and hence, called the pine 
 rei,'ion,as that below iscalled the oak region, 
 thuufi'li mi.xed with other trees. Tho hii^hest 
 feuminits of the Sierra are naked, massive 
 granite rock, covered with snow, in sheltered 
 places all the year round. Tho oaks are 
 several varieties of white and black oak, and 
 overirreens, some of them rescmblinji; live 
 oak. Of the white oak there are some new 
 species, attaininir a liandsomo elevation, upon 
 <i stem si.x tei!t in diameter. Acorns of un- 
 common size, and not had taste, used re<ju- 
 larly for food by the Indians, abound on these 
 trees, and will be of frroat value for stock. 
 Tho cypress, pine, and cedar are between 
 100 and -JaO feet hii:h,and live to twelve feet 
 in diameler, with ck-an solid stems. Grass 
 abounds on almost all parts of tho slope ; 
 except towards the hiirhest siiuimits. and is 
 fresh and jireen all the year niiind, bein^' 
 neither killed by coUl in the winter, nor 
 dried by want of rain in the smniuer. The 
 foot hills of the slope are siilliciently fertile 
 and <ientle to admit of ji-ood setlleiucnts ; 
 while valleys, coves, beaches and meadows 
 of arable land are found throuiihoiit. .Many 
 of the miiuei-ous streams, siane of them 
 ammnitiiiy to considerable rivers, which llov\' 
 down liie inoimliiin side, make handsome, 
 fertile v.ilk'xs. All tlie>e streams furnish 
 good water pi w '; Die climate in the 
 
 'oucr part of the .slope is thai o*" e • ^''aiii, 
 spriiif.'. v.liile abo\e, the cold is not In it". • 
 portion lo the elevation. Such islliei;e •■..'.'.[ 
 view of till' western slope of lb,! j;i,sit i.ii- 
 errii ; hut deeniiiiif that all jjeiieral vlewc 
 sJioiild rest upon po>ilive (/'//(/, I add some 
 notes taken from actual observalions i.r!,lft 
 in dill'erent a-cnls and de.- eiils in the 
 winter and S|iriui,f of IS I,")- Hi, and in dif- 
 ferent (leL'ri'i's of latitude Irom iij'^ to 41". 
 
 Ihrimtiir .|, ISI;"). — l)escenl from tiie 
 
 pass, at the head of Salmon 'iVoiit river, 
 
 I lalitiKJe lilt'-' 17', elevation 7.-_'(i() leet. A' a 
 
 I in the aflernoon the lempi'ralare at -Iti", at 
 
 sunset :! l", at sunrise ni'.'it morninij 2J"i 
 
 \ the sky perfectly clear; no snow in the pass, 
 
 I but much on tla^ mountain to|is. Here the 
 
 present emiirrant road now crosses. A 
 
 ; fork of Hear river (a considerable stream 
 
 [ tributary to Feather river, wliicn falls into 
 
 the Sacramento) leads from the pass, and the 
 
 j road follows it ; hut lindintf ibis a ruifiiea 
 
 way, wo turned to the south, and encamped 
 
 ' in a mountain meadow of ii-ood ifreen jjras.s. 
 
 A yi'llow moss very abundant on tho north 
 
 sides of the pines. 
 
 Dfcimlirr (). — The route was over good 
 travellincr crnmiid, throiij^di open pine forest 
 on a broad, leadinjf rid^'e, afrordiiiL,' an e.vceU 
 lent road. A species of cedar {Tliiu/a gi- 
 ; ifiinlifi) occurred, often of extraordinary 
 heiirlit and size. I'inits h/inlirrliiiiii was one 
 of the most frequent trees, di-tinifiiished 
 , amoiifi; cone heariiifj tribes by the loiiffth of 
 its cones, sometimes .sixteen or eij;htcen 
 j inches loiii;. Tiio Indians eat the inner part 
 I of the burr, and laive heaps of them were 
 j seen where they had been colK'cted. Leav- 
 I itifr the hijiher ridijes, and fiaiiiinj^ the 
 smoother spurs, and descendinij about 4,000 
 feet, the face of the country chan;;ed rapidly, 
 The country became low, rollin;:, tmd pretty ; 
 the pines beijan to disappear, and varieties 
 of oak, and (jrincipjdiy an everiireen resem- 
 bliiiir live oak, became tho |)re(lominatinj; 
 forest fiTowtli. These oaks bcari;reat qiiaii- 
 i titles ol larijo acorns, the princip.il food of all 
 , the Willi Indians. At a village of a few huts 
 ] which we came upon, there was a larfjo supply 
 of these acorns — ei<rbl or ten cribs of wicker 
 work, containiiiii; abiuit twi'iily bushels each. 
 The best acorns ari^ obtained from a lar"c 
 tree bel'iiiniuM- to the division of white oaivs, 
 which is very abundant, and ijeneriilly forin.s 
 the oroves on the botlom lands of the streams 
 — .-tandinii- apart, with a clean underfjrowlh 
 of !.ira>s, jiiviiifj them the appearance of cul- 
 tix.ited parks. It is a noble forest tree, al- 
 ready mentioned as a new species, sixty to 
 ei;;lily feet hijih, with a tufted snimnit of 
 spreadini,' branches, and frequently attains a 
 diameter of six feet. Tlie lari;est we 
 measured reached eleven feet. The evur- 
 I jrreeii oaks jreiierally have a low };rowlii, 
 
tlin i.li>|)(> is ilial o*" c •.":..''aTn, 
 ilimc, ilic fold is iKit in j"'^ 
 li'valion. Such isllit>i»p : 'il 
 
 'stern s|(i|)i' (if lli.> ^\\';\t bi- 
 liiiiii,' lli;it all jji'Mi'i'al vii.'wc 
 (111 posilivc (lii'ii, I add .soiiiC 
 nil iictiial iiliscrviiliiiiis i.rultj 
 •■(■('Ills imd dc- cull in llii' 
 •1111,' of IS I,")- Hi, and in dif- 
 1)1' laliliidc Iroiii ii.)"^ to 41". 
 , IKI;'). — l)tsciMit froiil tiie 
 I'ud of Saliiioii 'JVoiit. rivof, 
 ', clination 7.J(iO Irct. A: 3 
 I llic l('iii|H'ral;iiv at 4t)", at 
 sunrise ni'\t iiioniinij ^.i'^ , 
 ly clrar; no snow in llio pass, 
 
 inoiintain tops. IKmo the 
 lilt road now crossos. A 
 river (a I'oiisiderable stream 
 atlier river, wliicn I'alU into 
 i) leails IVoiii the pass, and the 
 
 ; but lindintf this a nifrfiou 
 
 1 to the south, and encamped 
 neadow ol yood ;j;re('ii ^rass. 
 
 very nhiindant on llio north 
 les. 
 
 — Tlio route was over good 
 lid, throiijfji open pine forest 
 liniX rid^'c, alVoriliiiu an exceU 
 species of cedar {Tliiii/u ^i- 
 red, often of extraordinary 
 . I'iiiiis liiiiilirrliiiiti was one 
 Freipient trees, di,-tin<jiiishcd 
 :irin;r tribes by the leiiirth of 
 letinies sixteen or eijjhtcen 
 Die Indians eat the inner part 
 il larL'e heaps of them were 
 y had been cohv'cted. Leav- 
 er riijires, and fiaiiiinj^ the 
 , and descendinij about 4,000 
 r the country chan;ied rapidly, 
 'camo low, rollin;:, and pretty ; 
 11 to disappear, and varieties 
 R'ipjilly an everiireen resein- 
 
 bocanie the |)redominatinj; 
 
 These oaks bcari;reat rpiaii- 
 coriis, the principal food of all 
 ». At a village of a few liuta 
 upon, there was a lar;:o supply 
 — eiirjit or ten cribs of wicker 
 ig about twenty bushels each. 
 IS are obtained from a lar"c 
 to the division of white oaivs, 
 bmidanl, and i;eneriilly form.s 
 lie bottom lands of the streams 
 rt, with a clean iinderfjrowth 
 ; them the appearance of cul- 
 
 It is a noI)lc forest tree, ai- 
 (1 as a new species, sixty to 
 I'll, with a tufted summit of 
 •lies, and frequently attains a 
 ix feet. The lari;est we 
 lied eleven feel. The ever- 
 ?norally liave a knv {jrowlh, 
 
 tirON UrPKR CAL1I'(»UNI.\ 
 
 91 
 
 wi'Ji loni; brunches and spreadinii tops. 
 iSniiie (if them are siiilablt- for ship timber, 
 iiiid have already bei ii ii--i d lor that piir- 
 
 I •■ 
 
 At our eveniiifi eiicampinent ol the Mb, 
 
 v.'hicli was at an elevation of five hundred 
 feel above- the sen. lat.liide IW" .Oil', 
 ami distant from the .-ea-coast about one 
 buiidred miles, the temperature at sunset 
 was 4S'^'. the sky clear and calm, weather 
 (ieliuhtfiil. and the venetation that of early 
 spriiiij'. We were still U|)oli the foot lulls of 
 the mountain, where the soil is sheltered by 
 W'Hids, and where rain fills much nmre ire- 
 iiueiitly than in the open Sacramento valley, 
 i;i:ar the edrje of which wi^ tlien were. I 
 havi^ been in copious, continuous rains of 
 ei^'lileeii or twenty hours' duration in the oak 
 r''i;ioii of the luiumtain, when not a drop j 
 fell in the valley below. Innumerable siuiill [ 
 st'-'.'ams have their rise and course throiiirli \ 
 tb. *e foot hills, which never reach the river j 
 of the valley, but an> ab-orbed in its lin;lit 
 soil. The lariie streams cominir from the 
 upper parts of the mountain maki; valleys of 
 their own, of fertile soil, covered with luxu- 
 riant (nass and interspersed with proves. 
 'J'his is the /.feueral character of the foot 
 hills tlirouifbout the entire len^rth of the Sac- 
 ramen:,) and San .loiupiin valley.s — a broad 
 belt of country, and probably destiiieil .to be- 
 come a \ ine-i,'rowin<j, as well as a j^rain and 
 jiastoral (diiutry. 
 
 y)ro;/i/'M- !».— I'hitered the valley of the 
 Sacra"ieuto. Fresh, frreen i.rrass for eijjlit 
 or tee miles into the valloy, cattle feedinpf 
 uiKui it, or lyin;; under the shade of trees — 
 the sliaile beiiiix pleasant to our own feelin^fs. 
 Further in, towards tlie midilleof tiio valley, 
 where the spriiijr rains had not yet com- 
 menced, the country looked parched and dry, 
 the ijras.s eaten down by the cattle, which 
 were quite lal and tine beef. 
 
 Asci-)il, December and .hinuary, 1813-'40, 
 latitude 37 . Finteriiiif the mountain by the 
 Rio Iii';/iy.i>( Tuhire lake, (December -24,) 
 we found its e'^iicial character very similar 
 to what it was' in the more northern jiart, 
 (latitude 39'',) the timber perhaps less heavy 
 and more open, and the mountain uenerally 
 more roui;ii. extremely rocky in the upper 
 |)arts, but wooded up to the jiranite riiljres 
 which coii'.pose its rocky eminences. At the 
 cievatiou of S.-OOO feettlie ri(l»es were cov- 
 9red with oaks and pines iiilenuixed, and the 
 bottom lands with oaks, colt<in-wi)od, and 
 Kycaiuores. .Small varietiivs of everii'reen 
 oaks reachei! the observed liei^dit of 9,4^0 
 feet, at which elevatiiai jiiiim: linnlniiiiiiii, 
 and other Mil '('ties of |)ine, lir, and cypress, 
 were larcjfe and lofty trees. Diiriiiy the 
 latter p;irt i^f December and first days of 
 .h'.niiary the :,verae-e temperatun,' of the o.ik 
 re'^ie.i,y:n;rir to about .'3,000 feet above the 
 
 Hca. w.ir-. at ..-unri<e. 3l."(i', and lit sun-et 
 ,50." .V. Ill the piiiey re;rioii. between this 
 heiL'ht and 1.10 i leet.'the averau'i' at siinri^o 
 was -J.s." 7 . anil at siin-et 3(1° )'. The low- 
 est observed temperature was at sun.-et of 
 •laniiarv 1. ubi'ii the .-ky had entirely cleared 
 after a se\ ere snow storm. The thernioiiie« 
 ler then stood at H,° 5, the elevation above 
 the sea beiiui !). 100 feet. DescendiiiL,' Ic 
 the oak rerjioii. sprinj; weather, rain and sun- 
 shine, |ive\ailed. At an elevation of 4,.'J0() 
 feet tlie temperature, lit the lii^ht encamp- 
 ment of the ;'id day of .lamiary, was 3S" at 
 sunset, and the same at sunrise, the >;rass 
 irreen, and !j;rowiiiir freshly under the oaks. 
 The snow line was then at about (i.OOit feet 
 above the level ol ine .sea. Uaiii had be^jiin 
 to fill in the valley of the San .lo.iipiin in 
 this latitude (37'') on the •JOtli of December, 
 and snow at the .same time upon the summit 
 of the mountain. The mean temperature 
 of the mountain dnrin<r this ii>ceiit and de- 
 scent (December -24 to .lanuary 8) was 31". 
 ()' at sunrise. 40°. t' at sunset. 
 
 Dcscfiit by Mr. Kern's part}-, latitude 3.'>°. 
 30', December and January. .Mr. Kern, 
 with a detached party had cros.si'd the Sierra 
 about one hundred miles fiirlher south, near- 
 ly opposite the head of tin- Tulare lakes, 
 and remained encamped in a valley or cove, 
 : near the summit of tli(> Sierra, at the head 
 j of Kern's river, from December •_'7tli to Jan- 
 ; iiary 17tli ; the cove well wooded with cver- 
 <rree:i oaks, some varieties of |)ine, lirs and 
 cedars, maintainiii!i: the usual majestic 
 i trrowth, which characterizes the cone-bear- 
 ni^r trees of the Sierra. iMitil the TJlli of 
 .lanuary the weather almost that of summer, 
 when the rains coimuenced, which was 
 almost threiMveeks later than in latitude 37°. 
 The nth there was a fall of snow, ^vaslled 
 oil" in the cove by a rain in the afiornoon, 
 the liijrli ridijos remainiuLr co\ered a loot 
 i deep. ^Tho mean temperature in the cove 
 , from Decemi'cr :i7th to .lanuary 17ili was at 
 '. sunrise '20°, at noon m°, at siiiisef .oJ". 
 After that, snow and rain, alternated with 
 sunshine, snow remaiiiiiiij' on the ridi,'i-s, and 
 winter set in fairly on all the upper half of 
 the mountain. 
 
 Ayrrui about l:ititiide 41°. (April and 
 May.) April 'Jti, 184t)— head of the lower 
 Sacramento valley. Left the river Sacra- 
 mento, eoinir up one of the many pretty 
 little streams that llow into the river around 
 the bead of the lower valley. On either 
 side, low steep ridi.'es were covered aIon;r 
 their summits with pine, and oaks occupied 
 the .somewhat broad bottoms of the creek. 
 Snowy peaks made the horizon on the li^lit, 
 and the temperature at noon was 7l", but 
 the (lav was still and hot. The small -treanis 
 are niinieroiis here, •.md have miicli Imltom 
 land ; erass and acorns abundant, and boib 
 
aa 
 
 (;i;()(;i{.\riii('Ai, mfmoir 
 
 of i'\ ci'lli'nl iinililv, r!i;iviiii|M'c| In tin- cv"!)- 
 ill;,' III luiitiiil'' It)" ;ih' ,')s". cIcMiiitm ii'invt< 
 til.' ^■<'!l I.OHit|.'..f,t,'iiiii r.il.ir-nl ■ilM-ft .')(i". 
 wi'MlliiT plcii-i'itil, (iri-ly lii'.ir-i imtiwrciiiH, 
 lour lii'iiii.' kill''(l liy tlii' liniitcis iiiirr we 
 lllid rii(Miii[)<'il. 
 
 .l/ir(/ :i7. — l''(iiiii(l a <_'0(ii| \v;iy .'ilinii,' a llaf 
 rid;,'!', !i jirrlty. (i|H'ii iiiiMiMliiin siri'am iiii lli(> 
 riLriit. till' ('iiiiiiiry lic'rimiiiiir id iis-^uiiic a 
 miiiinlaiiiniii cliariictiT, \v(I(«|imI willi iiiiii- 
 }];l('(l oak iiiiil liin^r-li'avi'il jiiiw, iiiiil lia\ii|Mr a 
 siirlaci' (if scaltiTcil roi'ks, willi ^jrasri ami 
 (liiwi'is. At noun, ci'o-'siiiL'' ii lii^l'i riil^fi', 
 till' Ihi'nnniiirti'r sliowod lil". At iiiirlit, at 
 an cli'valion of 2, IHit Ircl, we ('ii('aiM|H'il on 
 a ctmU thai went roariiii.' jnio tlic valley; 
 tein|M'ratiirc at snn^i't .'rl". 
 
 'JHIIi, conliiiiicil n|> llio stream on wiiieli 
 wo had (Mii'aiii|»ed, llii' roiinlry lisinir rapidly, 
 clothed with heavy limher. On crossin^r 
 one of the hiuh rid^ies snow ami jiiiiiix Imn- 
 hrrliiiiii appeared tojrcthpr. An hour hel'ore 
 noon reached the pass in the main ridire, in 
 nn open pini' lore^t, elevation -l.diK) feet 
 lliermonieter at .')i)°. lalitndenear ll". Snow 
 in patches, and deciduous oaks mixed with 
 the pines. 
 
 RetMrninir upon u dilFerent line, towards 
 the lower valley of the Sacramento, near its 
 head, we found in the descent a truly majj- 
 nilicent forest. It was composed mainly of 
 a cyjires.s and a lotty white cedar {'Vlitn/a 
 f^iiranlai) 120 to MO feet hiijli,) conm on in 
 llio inonntain.s of ('alifornia. All were inas- 
 fiivn trees; hut the cypress was ilistinyiiished 
 by its iinifonnly <rreat hnlk. None were 
 seen so lari^e us are to he foiuid in the coast 
 mouniains near Santa Cm/, lint there was a 
 {froator numl)cr of lareii trees — seven feet 
 beinij a common diameter — carryini^ the 
 btilk ri^rhty or a Iniiidred feet without a 
 limb. At an elevation of four thousand si.\ 
 Iiundred feet the temperature at sunset wa.s 
 48°, and at sunrise ;n°. Oaks already 
 appeared amon<jf the pines, but <lid not yet 
 siiow a leaf. In the meadow marshes of tla; 
 forest trrass was groen, but not yet abundant, 
 and the doer wcto poor. Desci'iidinir the 
 flanks of the mountain, which tell {rradnally 
 towards the plain, the way was throiiijb the 
 fiame deep forest. At the elevation of about 
 3,000 feet the timber bad bi'come more open, 
 tiic bills rolliiiir, and many streams made 
 pretty bottoms <i( rich jirass; the black oaks 
 in full and beautifnl leaf werelhirkly studded 
 amon<f the open pines, which lia<l become 
 miicli .smaller and fewer in variety, and when 
 wo lialtod near mid-day, at an elevation of 
 2,200 foot, we were in one of the most plea- 
 sant days of late sprini; ; cool and sunny, 
 with a pleasant breeze, amidst a profusion of 
 various llowers ; manv trees in dark summer 
 foliaoe. and some siil! in bloom. Amonir 
 these the white spikes of the horse-chesnut, 
 
 common ihrnuifh all the oak ri':.riot., uerti 
 conspicuous. W'e had airain n 'ached siuii- 
 iner weath"r, and the li'iiipeiature at noon 
 was 711'^. 
 
 In the allernoon we di'sci'iiilrd to the open 
 valley ot tin- S.icranieiilo, l.ilOK lei I lower, 
 where the thermometer was liS' at sunset, 
 and T) l" at sunrise. This u.as the besi liin- 
 bi red re^jion that I had seen, and the more 
 valuable from its position in'ar tlie bead of 
 the louer valley of the S.icraiiierit.., and 
 accessible from its waters. 
 
 Jim/ III' Sdii Fniiiriscii iiiul il'piiiilinl 
 fnini/ri/. — The hay of S.iii Krancisio has 
 been celehiated, from the lime of its lirs'. 
 discovery, as one of iIk* linest in the world, 
 and is |u-tly entitled to that character even 
 under the seaman's view of a mere harbor. 
 Hut when all the nccessorv adv,anta;jei 
 which belonir to jt — fertile and pic1iiresi|iie 
 dependent coiintrv. mildness and salubrity o. 
 climate, connexion with Ibi' uri'at interior 
 valley of lli<' Sacramento and San ,loa()uin, 
 its vast resources tor ship tiinb-r. f.M"iiii ""d 
 cattle — when these advanttim's are taker, 
 into the account, with its iireoirra|ihical posi 
 tion on the line of communication with Asia, 
 it rises into an importance l.ir above licit of 
 a mere harbor, and deserves a particular no- 
 tice in aiiv account of maritime ('alifornia. 
 its latitudinal [losition is that of Lisbon; it!i 
 climate is that of southern Italy; stttlo- 
 meiits upon it for more than half a century 
 attest its healthiness; bold shores and moun- 
 tains fjive it (jraiiileiir; the extent and fer- 
 tility of its dependent ( ntry irive it irreat 
 
 resources for aj;riculiure, commerce, and 
 population. 
 
 The bay of San Francisco is separated 
 from tlio sea by low mountain ranjje^. Look- 
 iiiij from tho peaks of the Sierra .Nevada, the 
 cojist mountains present an apparently con- 
 tiniions lino, with only a sinirle irap, rescin- 
 blini^ a inonntnin pass. This is the entranco 
 to tlie fjreat bay, and is the only water com- 
 munication from the coast to the interior 
 coiJntry. Approachinrj from the sea, the 
 coa.st presents a bold outline. On the smith, 
 tho borderinij mountains come down in a nar- 
 row ridge of broken hills, terminating' in a pre- 
 cipitous point, apunst which tho sea breaks 
 heavily. On tho northern side, tho moun- 
 tain presents a bold promontory, risinir in a 
 few miles to a heiubt of two or three thousand 
 foot. Between those points is the strait — 
 about one mile broad, in tlie narrowest part, 
 and live miles loiiff from the sea to the bay. 
 I'assinjj; throiiirb this irate, •^ the bay opens to 
 the ritrbt and left, e.Ntendinii in each direction 
 
 * Caltfil ('hrijAopijliF. ((iolilt-n (I.itp) on Ifii' ninp. nn 
 tlic same |>riiifi|ile that llio ji.lrhor nl' Hijiiititnim (Con- 
 s1;mtin't|il(' aOcrwarils) wan calN-il CItnjsofiraH funlden 
 Iiotn ; Till' (iinn of Ilii' harU ir. and ii^ a-lvantaijcs tor 
 i-orniniTct'. (ami tliat hct'ori' it bw-lmc ;iii i'iiltc|)Ol oi 
 eastern coiiunerci',) su^zge-leil the iiuim; lu ilie Gretli 
 
Ii nil lilt" link ri'irini., wcrn 
 
 i\'l' llllll IlL'iUM ri'iU llCll HIIIH" 
 
 III tlic t('iii|»'intiiri' itt liooii 
 
 MM \vc ili'sci'iuli'il to llic open 
 icniiiicnlo, l.tiiiil ici t lower, 
 miiiic'tcr \v;iH lis' til siimof, 
 
 ISC. 'I'llis U.l-: IJM' lll'.-l liiu- 
 
 t I linil sci'ii, .'iiiil llio innro 
 ts pii^iliiiii iii'ar Ilii' ImvuI cf 
 y of till' .S.icniiui'iil.i, iinil 
 il-* watcr-i. 
 
 /''rdiiriarii iiiiil ilpindfnt 
 l)uy "I S.iii l''i'iiiici-i(o hiis 
 , frniii till" liiiii' 111' ill tirs'. 
 in ot' llio liiii'^t III till' world, 
 litlcd to tliiit clmricti'r cvpit 
 n's view of 11 niric li;irl)(>r. 
 
 till' iici'i'ssorv iiilvaiitii;j('i 
 ) it — I'l'i'lili' anil |>i('tiir('si|iii' 
 ry. iiiililni'r*-' ami saliilirity o. 
 iiMi wiili till' irri'iit iiiti'rior 
 icraiiiriili) ami Sail .liia()iiiii, 
 's for slii|) liinli!'!'. frraiii iiiid 
 loso nilvaiittim'-^ arc taken 
 it, with its iiri'iiiri"i|'liical posi 
 1)1' coiiiiiiiiiiii'atiiiii with Ai^ia, 
 
 iniportaiu'c far almvc llrit of 
 mil deserves a iiarticidar iio- 
 niint ot' iiiaritiiHc ( 'alit'uriiin. 
 ositioii is that of l.ishim; itii 
 
 of sdiilherii Italy; s(;t,tle- 
 for more than half a century 
 ness; hold shores and iiioiin- 
 raiiileiir; the extent and fer- 
 
 endent ( iitry irive it ifreat 
 
 ii^rieiillnre, coiiiinerce, anil 
 
 San P'rnncisro is separated 
 low nioiinlaiii ranire^. Look- 
 iks of the Sierra Nevada, the 
 < present an apparently con- 
 itli only a sinirle jrap, resoin- 
 1 ])ass. This is the entrance 
 , and is the only water coin- 
 n the coast to the interior 
 •oachinij from the sea, the 
 hold outline. On the south, 
 iiiiitains come down in a Dar- 
 ken hills, termiiiatin^r in a pre- 
 ifrainst which the sea lireaks 
 le northern side, the inoun- 
 )old promontory. risiii<r in a 
 'iijfht of two or three thousand 
 these points is the strait — 
 iroad. in the narrowest part, 
 mrf from the sea to the bay. 
 1 this irate, •^ the bay opens to 
 'I, extendinij in each direction 
 
 iiliF. ((ioUfii ff.itp) Oil i!ti' innp, i:n 
 :tmi ilit» li.irhor nl' Hijuititimn (t'on- 
 isy W.1H ralli'ii Clinjstiftra!* fynlden 
 f Ilic liiirli ir, [UHJ ii- ;nl\ iintaijrs tor 
 It lift'ori' it lieclMlf ;iii i*iiIi(*|iol ol' 
 suiTjje^leil tliu nunu; lu ilitj Urt'tl^ 
 
 ITON I'i'l'KU CALIFOUNIA 
 
 98 
 
 about It 
 
 '!i.'n"'i 
 
 .llMil li, 
 
 !l,iv,' ..' 
 
 t 'A 1 ■ . , I ■ ■ 
 \V,!|iill, 
 
 O'.l . I |i| 
 
 lal,e rf 
 
 laii^i- 
 
 mile-. ha\ini^ a lol.-d l.'ti;,'lli 's! imifi' 
 mil a coi't of iiliniil 'J".! iiiili'^. It 1- 
 ly .trails iiiid projecliii!,' puiiil-', .iito 
 liii-ale li.iy, of whiidi the northern 
 lli'd Sin I'ablo anil Siii-ooii b; ys. 
 Ill' V i' \r presented is of ii niountain- 
 ilrv. ilie li:;y re-emhliiiH an iiiterior 
 leep ViiiT. Kill;; belweeii |iiirallel 
 il tmmi.i ill-, l-laiiils, which have 
 the lioli; ih.irai ler nt the >liorcs — some ment 
 iiias.-e- il riM 1<, and utliers }.'ras.--covered, 
 risiii!,' I" 'he hi'iuhi i.f three iind eiirlit liiin- 
 (Irnl I'rel — hr^'aU It.- surface anil adil to its 
 plitiiies.pie .appearance. Directly frolitiii^r 
 the enlraiKe. moiitilaiiis a few miles froiii 
 the slmre ri-e ali'ail •.'.ODD feel above the 
 Wilier, crowned by a forest of the lofty nj- 
 vrrss, which is vi^-ible from the sea, iiihI 
 ii'.ake-i a con>piciioii> landtiiark for vessels 
 iiiterinir the bay. Hi'liind, the ru^rireil peak 
 1,1 MoHiil Di-i'nJn, nearly l.dOO li'et hinli. 
 (3.770; overlooks llie surrouiulin;! country 
 of the hay and San .loaipiin. 
 
 The immeiiiate shore of the buy derives, 
 from its pio.vimate anil opposite relation to 
 the sea, the nniiie of nmlra cos/a (counter- 
 coast, or opp.v-iie coiist). It presents a varied 
 I'hariicler ol ru:.'Lred and broken hills, rolliiii; 
 ami uniiiilaliiit;' laud, and rich allnvitd shores 
 racked by fi'itile and wooded ranges, siiiltihle 
 •..r towns. NillaL'es. and hirms, with which it 
 .s beirinniiii; In be doited. A low alluvial 
 bottom l.iiiil, sevral miles in breadth, with 
 (u'casioiiai open woods of oak. borders the 
 foot of till' inoiintaius around the southern 
 arm of the hay, termiiiatini; on a breadlh of 
 twiiity miles in the fertile \alley of St. Jo- 
 sepii, II narrow plain of rich soil, lyiiif; he- 
 I'veeii raiiires from two to three tliousanil 
 'c('t hii_rli. The valley is ojienly wooded, j 
 Willi irroves of oak, free from nnderbnish, j 
 and after the spring' rains covered with ^rrass. | 
 Taken in connection with the valley of San \ 
 .'utiii, with which it forms a continuous plain, i 
 il is lifiv-live miies Ion;.' and one to twenty j 
 broad. openiuLi' inio smaller valleys anion;,' | 
 llie hills. At the bead of the bay it is twenty ! 
 miles broad, and tibout the same at the south- 
 ern end. wlcre the soil is beautifully fertile, , 
 covered in siimnier with four or live varieties < 
 of wild clover several feet liijrli. In nitiiiy 
 places it is overirrown with wild mustard, , 
 MTiiwinir ten or twelve feet liiyli, in almo.-t 
 impenetnilile lields, tliroiiy:h wliicli roads are 
 luade like lanes. On both sides the iiiniin- 
 ttiiiis are fertile, wooded, or covered willi 
 ;;iasses and scattered trees. On the west il 
 is protected from the cliillinu; inlliienre o\' 
 \\v northwest winds by the vua-tii d' /".< ita- 
 'ii\. (wild-cat rid;re), which sepanites it I'miii 
 
 the ciia,-l. Tlii-^ I' a !.rrii--y iitid liinti red 
 itioiinl.iin, watered wiili smali ftriMui-. and 
 wooded on both >ideH with many varieties of 
 trees iiiiil sbriihhery, the heavii-r forests of 
 pine iiiid cvpress occiipviie^' the wcfleri' 
 
 0(1111. 'its o*' H\/:mlinin. 
 ■in 1. 1\ iif S:iti I' run'M.c-. 
 HUM. .■ : A-i:itic in'-lti^ivf 
 gocL U) this eul itiice. 
 
 Tilt' fonn of tlic iMit:aiici? nCii 
 ., aii'I |1> .'Hh i.ii'M'.'p^ tor ciMii 
 I -li:;"iNt llif nauiH which v 
 
 lope. Timber and shinjrlcs are now obiiiiii- 
 eil IV'tu this mount. liii ; and one ot t|," 
 receiillv discovered i|iiicksil\,'r niiiies is on 
 the eastern ^ide of the motinlain, near llm 
 I'lii'blo of San .\ii^i. This raiiije termiii,ile.'< 
 on the south in the Aiuin .\iiiki point of 
 Monterey bay, and on the norlli declines into 
 a rid;,'!' (if broken hills about live miles wide, 
 between the bav ami the m'.i. iind liaviii;,' tlie 
 town of San f'raiicisco on the bay shore, 
 near its northern eNlreniily. 
 
 Sheltered Iroiii the cold winds imil fo^s of 
 the sea, iiiid liavini.' ti soil of reirarkable fer- 
 tility, the valley of St. .losepli (San .lose) is 
 capiible of |iroduciu;_r in :,'reat perfection 
 many fruits and trraiiis which do not thrive 
 on II ist in'its imnieiliale vicinity. With- 
 out takin;r into coii>ideralion the e.xlraordi- 
 liary yields which have sometimes occurred, 
 thefair average iirndiicl of wheat is estimated 
 lit lifty fold, or lilty for one sown. The mis- 
 sion eslablishnienfs of Nrncf Cliini and .S(//i 
 JtH'i, in the north end of the vallev, were 
 formerly, in the prosperous dayn of tlie mis- 
 sions, (listiii;;uishcd for the superiority of 
 their wheal crops. 
 
 'I'lie slope of alluvial laud conlinues en- 
 tirely around the eastern slioie of the_ hay, 
 intersected by small streams, and olleriiifj 
 some points which frood laiiiliii;T imd deep 
 water, with a(lvimta;.reotis petitions between 
 the sea and interior country, indicate for 
 future selllement. 
 
 The strait of i'lirijiihirf, about one mile 
 wide iind ei;i'ht or ten fal boms deep, ronnect.s 
 the San I'ahlo ami Snisoon bays. Around 
 these bays smaller valleys open into the bor- 
 deriii;; coiiiilry, and some of the stream.s 
 have a short laiinch navinnlion, which serve.s 
 to convey produce to the bay. Jlissions and 
 larij-e faiius were established at the head of 
 na\i;.'alioii on these streams, which are favor- 
 able sites for towns or villaires. The country 
 around tl'c Suisoon h.iy pre-enis smooth low 
 ridires a ,<l rounded hills, clothed with wild 
 oats, aim more or less ojienly wooded on 
 their summits. A|iproacliin;r its nmlhern 
 shores from Samiinn, it assumes, IIioiiljIi in 
 a state of nature, a ciiltiviited and beautiful 
 appearance. Wilil oats cover il in conlinu- 
 oiis lielils, and herds of cattle and bands of 
 horM's are scattered over low lulls and partly 
 isolated riil;res, where blue ini-ls and open- 
 iii;:s anioui; tlie abruptly tenninatin;^ \\\\\~ 
 indicate the nei^;bborliood of the bay. 
 
 The Siiisiiiin is connecleil with an ixptui 
 siou of the river formed by the jiincliou ot' 
 \\v Sacr.iinenio and San Joaquin, which en- 
 ter 'iie Francisco Jav m 'i.e -iniv^' latitude. 
 
114 
 
 (ilKKIUAl'IIK Al, MI'MoIR 
 
 iic.irlv. 11- llii' iiiniilli (if llii> 'I'li'^iiJ at l,i-!Miii. 
 A (li'liii 111 iwcntv-liM' irijliw ill li'ii.;!li. iliuili'il 
 iniii i-liiiiil- liy ilr<>|i (■liiitiii''!-', cniiMfrtH till- 
 liiiy Willi till' vulli'v III till' S.iii .lo^i'injii mil 
 Sui rmiit'iilK, iiilo llii' iiihiiIIk oI wliirli llii' 
 tiili' lln\\,j, and wliicli Ciller the liay tncrcthrr 
 I' mil' riviT. 
 
 .Silrli it llii' liiiy, illiil ill'' |irii.xilllllti' riilill- 
 Iry niiil ili.iii'' 111 llii' liiiv I'l S.in Kriiiicl-'Cii. 
 
 II lA lint II liiri'i' jllilrMl;iti(ill nl tin' t'li.'i^l. Iiiit 
 a little ^I'll 111 il^eir, CiilllH'eteii u illl till' iiri'iill 
 liy 11 iieti'ii-ilile iriite, M|ie|iill;; iMit lielwei'ii 
 Ki'veiity Hint i'i;.'lily iiiili'M to tin' riylit uinl 
 Icll, iiiiiiii II lirt'iiillli III' ten III lirtei'ii, iiei'|) 
 tMliili(.'ll liirtlie liil'tre^t sliili.-*. willi Imlil .■llore> 
 fiiitiilili' liir tciu lis mill Meltleiiieiils, iiiiii feilile 
 ndiareiit cniiiitry liir nilliviiliuii. 'Tlie lieiiil 
 of tlie liiiy i-* illiiiilt liirly miles iVniii the sen, 
 niu! there (•iiiniiieiices its (•iiiiiieclioii uilli 
 tin- iinlile Milleys (i| the Sail .loaiiniii mul S.i- 
 crmiii'iiti), 
 
 I'linsl riiiiii/ry nnrlh if llir hiii/ nf San 
 Vriiw'tsro. — Hetueeii the Siirriiiiii'iito valley 
 anil tlio coa-^t, imrtli ul the liay "I Sail Fiati- 
 cicco, the ciiiiiilry is lirukeii iiiin inoiiniaiii 
 ridfjcs and nilliii!.' hills, with maiiy very ler- 
 tiln valleys, made hy lal<es and small streams. 
 
 III the ititeriiir it is wooded, ;,'eiierally with 
 oak, and immedinlely aloii;,r the niast [ireseiits 
 open [irairie lands, aiiioiii,' heavily timhered 
 forests, havini; ii <;realer variety o! trees, mid 
 ocrdsionally ii larger frrowth than the tim- 
 boreil re;;iiin of the Sierra Nevada. In wime \ 
 parts il is entirely covered, in areas of many . 
 iiiilps, with a close irrowlli of wild oats, to 
 the e.\cliision of ahiiost everv other |ilant. ' 
 In the latter part of .jiuio and lie;.'iiiiiiiinr of ! 
 July, we found h(>re a cliinatc sensihly dif- 
 ferent from that of the Sacramento valley, a 
 few miles east, heiii;; much cooler and moister. 
 In clear weather, the morniii^fs were like 
 those of the Rocky mountains in Aiii;iist, 
 
 fleasnnt and cool, ibilowinir cold clear niijlit.-!. 
 n that jiart lyin^' iiiarer the c<iast, we found 
 the morniiiffs somelinie.s cold, iiccoiii|)aiiied 
 with chillinjf winds ; and foj;s frequently 
 came roliini; up over theridtjes frtMU the sea. i 
 These souietimes rose at evenini^, and coii- 
 tiiined until noon of the next day. They ; 
 are not dry, imt wet mists, leavin;r the face ! 
 of the country covered as hy a driz/.lin;j rain. I 
 TIiIh sometimes causes rust in wheat irrowii i 
 within its intliietice, hut veij;etal)les (lnurisli i 
 and attain extraordinary size. [ 
 
 I learned from Captain Smith, a resident 
 at liodciTd, tliat the winter months m;ike a 
 dcliirlilful season — rainy days (o-eiierally of ; 
 warm showers) alternatinif with mild and 
 calm, pleasant weather, and pure liriiflit 
 skies — much preferable to the summer, wiieii 
 tlie I'ofjs and stronif noilhwest winds, which 
 prevail durinir the irreater part of the vear. 
 make tlii! iiioriiiui.' part of the day disann.'Ca- 
 bly cold. 
 
 Owiiiir priiliiilily I I the foi.'', ("prin^f is pnr- 
 lii-r aliin;.' the co.i-t Ih.iii in the «\'fT'cT, 
 wliere,iiiiriii(,' the interv.il hei've'-p ' •; ;altw, 
 till' (.'round liecoiiies \er\ dry. I ''o\v< r i 
 lilooili ill Deceiiilier. mid li\ ill" iie.'iiitiin r uf 
 l''eliriiary (.Tiss iicipiires a strniij.' and li.xu- 
 riaiit |.'rowtli, iinil fruit tree- (|u'i,cli, pear, 
 apple, iVc.) are coM'red with iilii,--oiiis. hi 
 -itiiiitii)lis immriliately open tn the sen the 
 fruit rip"iis late, ireiierally at the end ol Aii- 
 j;ilst, lieiiijr retmded li" 'he chilling' illlluelice 
 of the iiiinhwest winds ; a short di-taiice in- 
 land, w here iiilerveniti;.' riiljre., nli-lriict these 
 winds and shelter the liee of the country, 
 there is a dilleienl i Innate and a reiiiarkiihle 
 dillereni'i' in the lime of ripeniiii.' Iriiiis; the 
 heat of the sun has t'lill inlliience on the 
 soil, and vey;etalinii (.'oes rapidly lo perfec- 
 tion. 
 
 The ciiiiiilry in .Inly heyjan to present the 
 dry appearance comiiion lo all ('idifornia ii.s 
 the Slimmer advances, e.Nci'pf aloni; thn 
 northern coast within the inliiieiice of the 
 foifs, or where the Liiid is sheltered hy for- 
 ests, and in the moist valleys of streams and 
 cove.sof the hills. In smiie of these was an 
 uncommonly luxuriant growth of oats, still 
 partially j;reeii, while elsewhere they were 
 ilried up; the i'ace of the country |>reseniiiij; 
 1,'eneriilly a mellow and ripened iippear- 
 aiice, and the small slrraiiis liej^'imiinj.' to 
 lose their volume, and draw up into the 
 hills. 
 
 'J'his northern jiarl of the coast country 
 is liea\ily timhered, more so a:^ it f(oe^; 
 north to the OreHjnn hoiiiidary, (12°,) with 
 many hold stream.'; faliiiii,' directly into tiie 
 .sea. 
 
 Tlif coinilnj lii'lirrf)! thr Imi/s of San 
 Fr(iiicis''(i and Mni/rrri/, — In the latter part 
 of Jiiiiiiiiii/. IHlti, a few sliruhs and tlow- 
 ers were alreadv in hloomon ihesiindv .shore 
 of iMonterey hay (lat. ;ii;° -l»'.) Amoiii,' 
 these were the California po))|iy. and m- 
 mii])hihi i:isiiinis. 
 
 On the .5tli Fehruary I found many sliruhs 
 and pl.'ints in hloom, in the coa-t mountains 
 horderinif St. .losejih's valley, between iMon- 
 terey ami the bay of San Francisco; and 
 veiretation appeared iiiucli more jjiven and 
 sprinjf-like, and further advanced, than in the 
 jilains. About the middle of Felmiary I 
 noticed the ^muiiiim in llower in the \al- 
 ley ; and from that tiuu^ veiretation U'lrnn 
 jrenerally to bloom. Cattle were obtained in 
 February, from randios amonj; tla^ neiijh- 
 borini:,' bill'^i extremely fat, selected from the 
 herds ill the raiifje. 
 
 Durinij the months of January and Fel)- 
 ruary rainy days alteriiitted with loiiirer inter- 
 vals of fair and pleasant weather, which is 
 the character of the rainy season in Califor- 
 nia. The mean temperature in the valley 
 of St. Joseph — open to the bay of San Fran- 
 
ly I 1 till' Ciiir', »<prinjf ii pnr- 
 I'lKi"! tli.'iii III till' «\'e-r'cT, 
 (• intcrv.il lii'i'vr"P ' >; :alnii, 
 •iiiiiiM MTV ilry. i''u\v< ri 
 licr. mill li\ ill" iK'.'iiiiiiii r nf 
 ici|iiiri-i II winiMj.' mill li.xM- 
 iiil Iriiil tri'iv (|«'i,(li, |ioiir, 
 
 ■OMTImI with llln,--ii||H. Ill 
 liilti'ly ii|MMl Ik till' MCii the 
 iXillcTillK III the ('Mil 1)1 All- 
 ilrd li" '111' cllilllliu' illllllc'lICi' 
 
 ' u iiiil- : II slidi't ili-itiiic(> In- 
 •viMliri;.' riil^iv, iili-lnirf ihi'sn 
 ir llii' liiic n( llic cciiiiifry, 
 III I'liiiiiitc mill :i I'i'iiiiirkiilili' 
 liiiif 111' ri|)c'iiiiiif Iniil-i ; tlii< 
 liii-< t'lill liilliii'iicr nil liio 
 inn (.'ocs nipiilly In |i('rti'i'- 
 
 II .Inly \)i'ffin In pri'M'iit llio 
 
 iMIIIIinii to III! ( 'iiljfnrililt IIM 
 
 Iviiiu'i's, I'M'i'iit iilnii}; tho 
 Aitliiii tlic iiillilriiro nt' flip 
 in Imiil i-i >liclti'ri'il hy tnr- 
 iinist viilli'ys nf Mtri'iim?" mui 
 i. In sniiii' of lliosi! war* (in 
 iiirimit (iPiwlli nf oats, still 
 uliili' I'Ui'wliiTi' llicy wnrt' 
 ■I' nt'tlii' I'niiiilry |in'st'liliii^r 
 
 llnw mill n|)i'iioil ii|i|ii'iir- 
 iiimII slriMiiis li('j:;iiiiiiii;.' to 
 III', mill ilriiw ii|i into liio 
 
 I jiart III' tlio poiirtl country 
 •rcil, mnri) so tin it j^no^i 
 I'lrnn l)c III Hilary. (1-°,) with 
 ins I'aliiiiif ilirirlly into tiie 
 
 lii'lirrcii !lir hiii/s (if San 
 IdiiliTi'i/, — In the liittor (iiirt 
 (i, a ti'w sliriilis anil tlmv- 
 ill hiniiiii on llu' saliilv sliorp 
 ly (lat. .'ill' -Id'.) AiMont,' 
 Culil'nniia |Mi))|iy. ami nn- 
 
 liriiary I found many s!lrllll^! 
 Mil. in llii' cna-t iiumnlains 
 ■I'pli's valli'y, bctwei'ii iMnn- 
 iiy (if San Francisco; and 
 rwl niiicli iiiorp jjivcn and 
 iirthnr iidvaiici'd. Iliau in the 
 tlio iniildlc of I'Vliniary I 
 'uiiim in llowcr in (lie \al- 
 tliat tiiiu^ vcffctation U'lrnn 
 n. Callli' were nbtaineil in 
 ranclins aiiioiijr tliii iiciijli- 
 f'lnoly lUl, selected froiii the 
 
 [C. 
 
 oiitlis nf January and Fel)- 
 [iltern:tted with Iniifjcr inter- 
 pleasant weather, which is 
 the rainy season in Califor- 
 temperatiiro in the valley 
 xMi to the bay of Han Fran- 
 
 Pi'oN riri;i{ cm, mouma. 
 
 v.> 
 
 cl^rf»— tVnin the l:!tli fn the JJd nf I'l lirii iry. 
 wild ftil" III -iiiiri~e, and til ''at -iin-'ef. 'I'lie 
 oakiJ III ll.i- valley, especially iilniitf llie limt 
 if th.i III'.'-, are pirtiv cnvered wiili Inii^j 
 1 iiTijMii • luiwM — an inilicalinii nf iiitn h 'ni- 
 '"iili'y III llie climate. 
 
 VVi< remained sevnal dayn, in the laii.'r 
 part nf |''eliriliry. in the Upper portion "I the 
 Ci'a>-* liliillll'iiill belwren St. .JiHeph mid 
 
 Santa ( 'rii/:. The phice of niir eiicMiiipiiieiii 
 HilK 'J.IMI'I leef alinvethe sea. and Wis co\- 
 "reil Willi a liiMirimil 1,'rnulli of (rrass, a 
 ""nnl liii.'h ill many places. At -"iinri-je the 
 t' inper.itiire wa-i in'; at iHMin tin"; iit I in 
 the iil'teniiinii (i;)"; and (ill" at siiii-et ; with 
 \ery pI'M-'anl unalher. The inoiinlaiiis were 
 wooded Willi many varii'ties of frees, and in 
 HOiiie parts wlih heavy foresfs. These for- 
 Pl^t.^ are cli,iraeteri/.ed bv a cypress (lii.rn- 
 Jiurti) III' I'xliaotdinary ilimensinns, alreadv 
 irenlinned aiiinii.r the trees of the Sierra 
 Nevada, which is ili>iiiiiriiished aiiinni^ the 
 fores! trees of .America by its superior size 
 fin-l lii'iirlit. Amiiii!,' many which we iii(>a- 
 nured in this pai-i nf ihe ninniilain, nine and 
 ten feet diameter was freipieril — eleven sniiie- 
 IJmes ; but ;.'nin'^' beynnd eleven niily in n 
 si:i;de tree, which reachiil rmirteen i'eet in 
 iliui leter. .\luive two hundred feet was ii 
 tr>-(|iient lieiirlif. In this locality the bark 
 ',vi';.i very deeply furrowed, and iiniisiiallv 
 thick, beiiiif fully si.xtei'ii inches in some of 
 the trees. The tree was now in lilnnni, llmv- 
 crw.ir near the simimil, and the tlnwers con- : 
 SOi'iiently dill'iciilt to procure. This is the | 
 vtaple timber tree of tin- cniintry. beiiifr cut I 
 into both bnanls iinil 'hiiiLrles. and is the 
 principal timber sawed at the mills, It is j 
 foft, and easily worked, weaiiiijif away too j 
 "luickly to he Used fur tloors. It seems to j 
 i.ive all the durability which anciently yave ■ 
 (he cy|)res.j so much celebrity. I'o'-ts which ' 
 have bei'ii expo.'ed to the weather fnr three ' 
 quarters nf a century (since the fmindatifin 
 of the missions) r-lmw no marks of di'cav in ^ 
 t;ie wood, and are now cnnvrted into iM'aiiis | 
 'I'ld posts for private biiildiiiLls. In Califor- 
 .lia tills tree is called the iialu ndnrmht. It 
 .f! the kiiiji' nf trees. 
 
 Amon;X 'be oaks is a handsome Inflvever- 
 jjreeii species, spccilically dilVerent from those 
 of the lower L'rounds. and in its i;eneral ap- 
 pearance niiicli reseiiililin;j hickory. The 
 bark is smooth, nf a white colnr, and the 
 vond hard and c!ose-;frained. It seems In 
 .irefer the iiortii bill sides, where some were 
 nearly four I'eot in diameter and a Inindred 
 feet hiL'b. 
 
 Another remarkable tree of these woods 
 is called in tin- lan!.'ua;je of the country iiia- 
 lirotiii. It is a braiitifiil every;reen, with 
 nrije, thick, and L'lnssv dinitatii leaves, the 
 trunk and liraucb"s reddish cnlnred. and bav- 
 ilijj a siiiontli and siiiLiularlv naked apiiear- 
 
 mice, ns if the barl liad bei'il stripped iifT. 
 Ill its {rri'cii ^fate the wimhI is hriltie, very 
 heavy, bard, and cl.i«e-',rraiiied ; it i« said t« 
 iissunie II red rnlor when dry. someiiini-s vii- 
 rieirateil, and sii«cepljh|e ot a liiL'll polish. 
 This tree was loiind hy us only in the nioiin- 
 laiiH. Sniiii" nieasiireij nearly lour feet ill 
 diami'ter. and were almiit sixty feel hi'_'li. 
 
 .■\ few ,-calfrrid lloucrs were imw show- 
 in;,' tliroiiirhniil till' tnri'-l-, and mi the n[M'n 
 rld(.ri'.-: sliriib-i were llmveriii'; ; bin U.e bloom 
 was not yi'f !,"'"''f''l. 
 
 On the 'J.'itb l''ebriiarv. we dc i "iileil to 
 the <'oa>t near the iiorlhwe.-lern point of 
 Monterey bay. lo in;,' our tinewci tlir, which 
 in the I'M'nin;,' cbaniM'd inln a culd south, 
 eiisleriv sinrm. coiitinuiiii.' with heavy niid 
 cnnslmit rains Inr several il.iys. 
 
 Diirini; this lime the mean leniperafiire 
 was .Vl" 111 sunrise. 511^.,') at lUi.. ».in.,rn^.li 
 at iinnn. t)\''Jt at \lh. in the afternoon. M^.4 
 at t, and .W. 7 at sunset. On the liSth, a 
 thick loyfwas over III" bay niul on the nioim- 
 tains at sunrise, and the llien.ionieler was at 
 UH" — 1,')'-' below the ordinary temperature— 
 risinjf at !) o'clock In .V.t". These loirs pre- 
 vail alniii,' the cnast iliiriii;.; a jTreat part of 
 the siimnu'r mid a'ltunin, but do nnt crnsa tho 
 ridjies into the interior. This locality is celo- 
 hrated for the excellence and f,'reat si/o of 
 its veiretahles. (especiallly the Irish potato 
 and onions.) with wiiicli, for this reason it 
 lias for many years supplied the shijipinir 
 which vir-its Monterey. .\ forest nf /w/o 
 roldrddi) lit the foot o|' the inniiiitaiiis in this 
 vicinity, is noted for theirreat size and hei;,'lit 
 of the trees. I nmasiired one which was 
 l!7.5 feet in lieijihl and fifteen feet in diame- 
 ter, three feel above the base. Tliouirh this 
 was distiiiuui^hed by the ureatest i.'irlli. other 
 sinToinidini;' trei's were but little inferior in 
 si/e and still taller, Their colossal lieii;lit 
 and massive bulk i^ive an air of i.'randenr to 
 the fore-^t. 
 
 These trees irrow' tallest in the bntlom 
 lands, and prefer moist soils and north hill- 
 sides. In situations where they are pre- 
 lected from till' prevailiii',;- nnrthwest w'inds, 
 they shoot up to a ;;reat height ; but wliercvor 
 their heads are exposed, these w iiids appear 
 to chill Ihein and stop their prowtli. '1 hey 
 'hen as-iume a spreailinijf shape, with larjjer 
 branches, and an apparently brnki'ii siiminit. 
 
 The rain storm clo^ed with February, and 
 the weather becnmini| line, on the Isl of 
 March we resumed our prni;re<s alonir tho 
 coast. Over the face of the country between 
 Santa ('riiz and .Mniilerey, and around the 
 plains ot' St. .Inhn.tbe jjrass, whiili had been 
 eaten down by the larij[e herds of cattle, was 
 now e\erv where spiiiii;inij up ; flowers 
 Detran o show their bloom, mid in the valleys 
 nf the mnuiitaiiis borderinu- the Silinas plains, 
 (a jilaili of some lifty miles in leiii'lli. inudc 
 
2C 
 
 CKOCJRAnilCAL .■MI'.MniR 
 
 by ;' S..!inas river.) wild (lals were tliroc 
 feet lii;!li, i.ml \\i'li lio:ulc(l, l)v tin" (Jlli of 
 M.nvh. 
 
 Diirin;:r lliro' ilay-. th;\t wo rcinniiicd on 
 out' ol' lliesi' ludiinl.'iins, ;it ;iii plcviilinri of 
 a.'JOO li'cl aliiivi'tiii' -I'M. :iii(i ill riiirhl (^' iMuii- 
 toroy. ll;" ini^iii fcinjx'ratur" wiis 1 1° .it :-mi- 
 risp, ij.j° at (t ill llip iiwiniiiijr. i]0° at noon. 
 62° at -2 in the al'li'rnonn. .07° at -1. ami M^ 
 at Hnn.-ct. At llic >;\\w hours tin' ()"\v point 
 was ■IJ'-'.O. •ls",l.,'jJ^.S. .')l".l)..5J°..',.')l".(J, 
 niul Ilic (|iianlily ol' nioi^-taro in a cnliic I'ool 
 ot !•!■, ;i2S:i yr>.. ;i.[)X-2 irrs., .1.72(J <rrs., 
 4.972 n-rs., -l.dSJ urs.. ami 4. .'3.58 frr.~.. ro- 
 spocTivi'ly. 'I'iip woatlior rpniiiinfd lirijilit 
 and pleasant ; ioijs .'^oiuotinics covorinfj tlio 
 moniilains at snnri.-c, lint fjoip;; (,(]' in ii low 
 lionrs. Tiiesp an; oppii inonntains. nntiin- 
 berod, but t'prtile in oats and otlicr grassps. 
 aflbrdin;; iinp ran^'T' lor cattle. Oalis and 
 pines are scaltpred tliinly over tlirir upper 
 parts, and in tlie liiji'lnT and inoro pxposed 
 situations tlin pvpr;.'repn oaks show the 
 conrsp and intlupi"'p of the northwpst winds, 
 Rtuntpd and hli(.'hiP!i hy their chilliip.";:, iient 
 to the firoiii.d liy their t'orce, nnd jrrowinj^ in 
 that form. 
 
 l)esremlu;:x into tlie valley of the San 
 Joaqnin, (.March 11th.) we found almost a 
 Buniiner temr.rrature. and the country clothed 
 in tl;e floral l)tunty of advanced sprinir. 
 
 Sdiillfni riiiniin/ ami r/iiiii/ scdson. (Irili- 
 <»(/t'.f 32^—3.';°. —Wi'Uth of Pnin/ Coiictplion 
 the climate and jreneral appearance of the 
 country e.\liiliit a marked chaiiLre. The 
 coast i'roni that rape trends almost directly 
 cast, the face of the conniry has ii more 
 southern exposure, and is sh"ltered by ranires 
 of low mountains from tiie violence and chill- 
 inrr ert'ectof the northwest winds ; hence the 
 climate is still more mild and jrenial. foster- 
 inrj a richer variety if produclions, diniTiiiir 
 in kind from those of ihe northorn coast. 
 
 The face of the country alon;^ tiie coast 
 is (Tenerally naked, th'' lower hills and plains 
 devoid of tree-, (hoiiiL'' 'he s'umiier heats 
 parched and bare, n'ld water sparsely disiri- 
 buted. The hi;:!ii'r ri'!'.re> ami the country 
 in tl.eir iinmediaie vicin:!y are always more or 
 less, and sometimes prcitily. wooded. These 
 usually aniinl water and yood (_'reen irrass 
 throuohoiif the year. Wiicn the pJain-liave 
 become drv. parclieil and bar" of sjrass, thi^ 
 ' 'i;('s. where, wilh 
 lliev find water 
 
 ininalion) still ren.a.in hii.'ic — some peak-i 
 al\v";ivs retainintr snow — and alliird -..pious 
 stre.ims, which run nil the year. M.inv of 
 these streams are ah-orl cd ie lli" li^rht ~-\i 
 of the larei'r plain.s ln'lo'e •' .'•; roach t.'i.' 
 sea. l'n...r!y dirccLed, ' - .laler of 'lie-.-c 
 river- is sii-iici<'nt to spte-... tuhivation ov.v- 
 tlie plains. Throuiiliout iiie country every 
 farm or rcurlui has its own .-priiifis or run- 
 iiinjr ."treaiii sullicieiit Ibr the support of 
 stock, which liitlierio h.i-. made the chief ob- 
 ject of industry in Ciililornia. 
 
 The soil is ijenerally j,'ood, of a sandy or 
 li;,dit character, easily ciilti\;iled, and in many 
 places of e.vtraorilinary fertility. <'iiltivatiou 
 has always been by iirij^alion, and the soil 
 seems to rerpiire only water to jiroduce 
 vijroronsly. Aiiionji the arid brnsli-covered 
 hills .coiitii of San Diejro we found little val- 
 l(\vs converted by a single spriiiij; into crowded 
 ffardens, where pears. |)each"s.(piinccs, pome- 
 ifranates, irrapps, olives, and other fruits 
 ijjrew In.xnriantly tnirriher, the little stream 
 
 actiiij^ upon them like 
 
 ineiplG of life, 
 
 The soutliern frontier of this |>ortioii of Cali 
 fornia seems eminently adtipted to the culti- 
 vation of the vino ;iiid the olive. A single 
 vine has been known to yield a barrel of 
 wine ; and the olive frees are burdened witli 
 the weiirht of I'riiit. 
 
 Duriiij; the ii'.onth of Atif^uxt the days are 
 brii^dit and hot. the sky pure and entirely 
 eloudle<s, and the nijrhts cool and boauli- 
 fnlly serene. In this month fruits penerallv 
 ripen — melons, jiears. poaches, prickly fir. 
 (ciictits tii'ii.it.) &c.. — and larjro bunches of 
 ri|)c (Trapes are scattered numerously throufr!] 
 the vineyards, but do not icacli maturity 
 until the following month. After the vin- 
 taijri'. frrapcs are hun'.r up in the houses and 
 so kept for use tlirou;;-hoiit the wieter. 
 
 Th.e mornings in September are cool and 
 generally didiyiitful — ue sometimes found 
 
 llipiii almost cold 
 
 enou'ii 
 
 I to freeze — the mid- 
 
 r.i 
 
 cattle {i-o up into tlnve 
 cooler wikithrr and shade 
 and good p;i-turi>. In the dryest part of thi' 
 year wo louml sheep and cattle fat. and 
 .saw flowers bloomiiiir in all the months of 
 the year. .Monr the foc/t of the main 
 rid;;-'-s tl;.^ -^"il i- rich and coinpantively 
 moi--t. woo ti'il. with iir.iss and water abiin- 
 
 dan! ; ;.ii! 
 
 Mianv 
 
 tit'.il and 
 
 podn. 
 
 the .S.'rr 
 
 I .^ . 
 
 ■ icaliii 
 
 'iti 
 
 : \\i 
 
 a'liud beau- 
 'i\o I'a'ans. Th.' ranire< of 
 ./i here appr.-iarhiu!;- it.-lrT- 
 
 day hours hri/rht and hot. hut a breeze usuall'. 
 made the shiide pleu^^anl ; ilio cveninrfs calm, 
 and nijjihts cool and cleer v.d'.en unobscured 
 by fofjs. We reached th • southern countrv 
 at the end of .fnly : and the first clouds we 
 saw a])peared on tlii' tith .S''/.''7;i/« r at siinse*, 
 ijradually spreading.' over tin; sky, and the 
 leorninj;' was (doudv. but clear aijain before 
 noon. J.iirhtniii;: at this time was visible in 
 the diroction of Sonor;;. wdiere the rainv 
 season had already comiueneiul. and the 
 cloudy weather was p"ihaps indicative of 
 its a.pproirli here. On some nijvhts the 
 dews were reiivirked to be heavy : and as we 
 were journryinir aion.'r the coast between 
 San Diecro and S.inta IJarbara, foji's occa- 
 sionally oliscureii the sun-et over the ocean, 
 and rose ne.xt inorninfr wilh the sun. On U'.' 
 wooded |)lain, at tlhj foot of the San (Jahrie! 
 luouiv.ain, in the nei^ihhorhood of Santa Bar 
 
 miry 
 by coil 
 The 
 frame 
 were 
 killed 
 
 liOW 
 
 Mififue 
 
 losinjr 
 
 si'.owi 
 
 been 
 
 had 
 
 bare 
 
 Alxiut 
 
 ters a 
 
 woodt 
 
 and al 
 
 ti;red 
 
 and 
 
rpn;;iiii hicii — poiiip poal;-, 
 Hi; siinu — iiiiil iillnril ",i|iii)ns 
 1 run all lln' yc;ir. M.my of 
 ;ir(' iih-nr! i'<l )•: ih" liylit ••••;i 
 plains li •liri' ■' •■.• iv^acli Vv 
 itiri'Clcil. ' • .,a!rr of t!;i?-i 
 ■['■nt t" sjiii", ; iihivatiun OV.T 
 Tl.rdii^licni' iiip c'linnlry oven- 
 Ills its (iwti -prini;:- or run- 
 ■■uilicicnt I'or till' t:ii|)|)ort of 
 iithorto lia-; nimlo the chief ob- 
 y ill Cnliliiriiia. 
 ijiMicnilly ^'iKiil, of a Siimlyor 
 . la-iiy ('i|lti\iil('(l, iiiid ill iniiiiy 
 nlin.-iry f(>rtility. ('iiltiv;itii)ii 
 •11 liy iiTi;;ati()ii, and tlm i^oil 
 111-;! (inly water to produce 
 AiMoiirr iho arid liriisli-covore'! 
 Sail J)le(ro wi^ foiiiid little val- 
 1 liy a single ? prin;; into crowded 
 re pears. |"^:ichi's.i|iiinc,es,pomo- 
 ipes, olives, and oilier frnii.s 
 iitly tnjri'tlier, the little stream 
 them li!ci> ii principle of lif,->. 
 1 frontier of this portion of Cali- 
 cniiiieiitly adapted to the culti- 
 viiip and t!ie olive. A single 
 n hnowii to yield a barrel of 
 le olive trees are burdened with 
 fruit. 
 
 ir.oiitli of AiifTiist the days are 
 lot. the .sjiy pure and entirely 
 id the nifrhts cool and beanfi- 
 In this luoiilh fruits frenerullv 
 tis, pears, pi 'aches, prickly fir. 
 1.) &:v.. — and larire hunches of 
 ire scattered niinieronsly throni^!i 
 [Is, I.Mit do not /each maturity 
 lo'.viiiLT month. After the vin- 
 are him'.,r up in the houses and 
 ise tliroM';'Iioiit the wii'ter. 
 iii2:s in ^'eplvmher are cool and 
 'lii;iitfnl — we .sometimes found 
 cold enou;^li to freeze — the niid- 
 iirhliiiiil hut. hut a breeze usuall". 
 ide pleasant ; (lie eveiiinixs calm, 
 ool and c!e;'r wh.en nnobsciired 
 'e reached th ■ southern countrv 
 ' .riil\- ; and the first clouds wv 
 Ion thetJth S j^' ,jil,i r ixt sunse*, 
 ;reudiiiir "ver the ^■ky, and the 
 ; cloudy, bill clear attain before 
 tiling' lit this time was visible in 
 1 of Siiiiori'.. where the rainv 
 already {'iPiiiiiK'nced. and the 
 her was perhaps indicative of 
 1 liere. On some ni;;-lits the 
 Mivirked to be heavy ; and as we 
 viiiiT iiloiirr the coast between 
 and Santa IJarbara, fon-s occa- 
 ured tlii^ siiii-et over the ocean, 
 t moniiiiir with the sun. On th' 
 I, at the I'niit of the San (iahrie! 
 the ne;;)lil)orhood of Santa Uar 
 
 UPON ri'I'HIl CALIFORNIA, 
 
 27 
 
 bar.i, and freipietitly aloiiif the wav. the 
 trees were found to be partly covered with 
 moss. 
 
 ('iiiiiilrr/ lirtiri''!i thr Sniihi Hurl'/irii riiniin- 
 tiiln and Mi)r.!n-nj, (Ui!. ;M" lio' /,/ IJti" ;{()'.) — 
 About the middle of S' i^l' iiihirwi' ('iicampcd 
 Tiear the summit of tin- Ciiisld ilc Smtln Iiirs. 
 (Santa liiirbara mountain.) on a little creek 
 v.'ith cold witer, i.'ood Iresh ijrass, and much 
 limlier ; and tliencel'orward north alonjj the 
 mountain lieliind the ,SV/;//(/ l)i,s mission, the 
 C('Untry assumed a bi'tter appearance, o-cner- 
 ully well wooded and tcilerablv well covered 
 with {jrass of ;rood (|uality — vry dillerent 
 from the dry, naked and jiarrhed appearance 
 of the country below Santa narliara. The 
 noij;lihorinij mountain exhibited lar^rc tiiiilH^r, 
 redwood or pine, probably the latter. Water 
 was froipient in small runmn^r streams. 
 Crossing the fertile valley of Sun Liiia 
 Ohispi), (h\t. .■5.5".) a sheltered valley noted 
 for the superiority of its olives, we entered 
 the Siinid Ijucjit ranL;e, which lies Iwtween 
 [he coast and the Sdlinas, or Itnoifirriiliira 
 river (of the bay of .Monterey.) We found 
 this a beautiful mountain, covered thickly 
 •with \vil({ oats, pret.ily wooded, and having 
 on the .«ido wo ascended (which is the water- 
 slioi) in every little hollow a running stream 
 of cool water, which the weather made de- 
 lig'itf"!. The days were hot, at evening 
 cool, and the morning weather clear and e.x- 
 liilarnting. Descending into the valley, wo 
 found it open and handsome, making a pleas- 
 ing country well wooded, and every where 
 covered with grass of a good qualify. The 
 coast range is wooded on both sido.s and to 
 tlie summit with varieties of oaks and jiinos. 
 T!io upper part of the Salinas valley, where 
 wo aro now travelling, would alhird excel- 
 lent stock farms, and is particularly well 
 suited to sheep. The country never becomes 
 miry in the rainy season, and none are lost 
 by cold in the mild winter. 
 
 Tlie good range, grass and acorns, made 
 game abiiudaiit, and deer and grisly lioar 
 wore numerous. Twelve of the latter were 
 killed by the party in one thicket. 
 
 Lower down, in the neighborhood of San 
 Miguel, the country changed its appearance, 
 losing its timbered and grassy character, and 
 sjiowing much sand. The past year had 
 ;i:-<'n one of unusual drought, and the river 
 had almost entirely disappe.'irod, leaving a 
 hare sandy bed with a few pools of water. 
 Alxiut liftet'u miles below S.-in .Miguel it en- 
 ters a gorge of the hills, making broad thickly 
 wooded bottoms, and atjording a good range 
 and abundance of water, the bed being shel- 
 ti;red by the thick timber. 'I'lie lower hills 
 and spurs Inaii 'he ranges, bord'Tiiig the 
 river, are M-ry dry ami bar<', airordinn^ little 
 or no grass, .-\pp^l^lcllillg the missimi nf 
 ISukdad th:' river vallev Widens, makiiur 
 
 fertile bottoms and p'.".iiis of arable land, 
 
 , some lifteeii to twentv miles broad, e.vtending 
 
 I to .Monterev bav. and bordered b\ ranges of 
 
 mountain from two to three tlmusiiiid feet 
 
 lii^li. These ranges have the cliararler of 
 
 fertile miumiains. their bills beiiii; ciivereil 
 
 with grass anil scatti'red trees, and their v:;!- 
 
 levs producing lieldsof wild oats, and wooded 
 
 I with oak groves. Heing nnshelliTed by 
 
 ' wiiods, water is not abundant in the drv sea- 
 
 sdii. Imt at the (Mid of September we found 
 
 ' springs among the hills, and water remained 
 
 j in the creek U'ds. 
 
 j On till! eviMiing of the L'oth Septembor, 
 nniiiili made their a])poarance in the sky, ana 
 the iie.xt morning was cloudy with a warm 
 southerly wind and a few drops of run — 
 tlio lirst of the rainy season. 'J'lie weather 
 then continued uninterruptedly dry through 
 all Octolx^r — fair and bright <lnring tlio first 
 |)art. but cloudy (hiring the latter half. At 
 tho end of the month the rainy season set in 
 fully, consisting generally of rain sipialls 
 with bright weather intervening, and occa- 
 sional southeasterly storms continuing seve- 
 ral days. The previous seasons had boon 
 very short and light for several years, and tlie 
 country had snirered from tho C(mso(|iipnt 
 drought. Tho prosont season commenced 
 early, and was very fi.vorable. Much ;ain 
 fell in the low country, imd snow ticcnmn- 
 lated to a great depth in the high mountains. 
 Tho tirst rains changed tho face of the 
 country, (irass immediaftdy began to shoot 
 up rapidly, and by the end of the first week 
 of Niiiejidirrlho dead hue of tho hills around 
 Monterey had already given place to green. 
 
 A brief sketch of tho weather during a 
 journey in this year from the mission of Sun 
 Jiinn 'Bajilisl'i (latitude .17°) to los Anades 
 will exhibit tho ordinary character of the 
 season. 
 
 Ill the valley of San .Tuan, during the Lat- 
 ter half of SmPinlwr, there was no rain ; tho 
 weather, generally, jileasant and bright, with 
 occasional clouds. The night clear and 
 cool, occasionally cold ; tho moinings clear 
 and sliar|), with hoar frost sometimes cover- 
 ing tho ground. Tho days were warm and 
 ploa.sant, and the evenings mild and calm. 
 On some mornings a thick fog settled down 
 immediately alter snnriso, but in a few hours 
 cleared oil' into a pleasant day. 
 
 The falling weather recommenced on the 
 30th. with a stormy day of spring ; blue sky 
 in spots, rapidlv succeeded by massifs of dark 
 clouds and pouring rain, which fell heavily 
 during greater part of the night. 
 
 The morniug of tin; 1st Dfriniiiir was 
 partially clear, but rain recommenced in a 
 few hours, with skv entirely clouded. The 
 weather brighteiieif at noon, and from a 
 liiL^h point ol'tlie hills bordering the St, .Iiian 
 ri\cr valley, up which we were travelling, 
 
23 
 
 GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR 
 
 snow was visible on MiniiiHts of ilii- ili\iiliiiij ' 
 faii;.ri' Ix'twi'i'ii tli(^ Siiii .liimiuiii wilicv ai.il 
 ttio coa.-it. It raiiioil Iwavily anil iiiccsruiitly 
 (liirini;; llic niijlit. and ccnitiiiiit'il all tlic uc\i 
 day. Jii tlu^ niiili' tlio .^ky clcMreil olV hrii^lil, 
 wilii a nortii wind, Imt cloiidi.'d np lit nmrn- 
 inj;, with rain and a liniUtMi .--'iy. 'J'liero 
 wure siiowtTs ol' rain during the diy, with 
 intervals ot' lirifrht and Ik it hun ; and tin; sky 
 at snnsft was withont a cloud. 
 
 Durintj tlio day and iiiirht of the -Itli, tliiTi! 
 were occasional shiwers. Tlio sky was 
 tolerably clear on the morning of the fltli, 
 with a prospect of fair weather. The tents 
 were frozen, and snow appeared on the near 
 ridge.s. Wo were then in a small interior 
 valley of tlio monntains, bordering the Sali- 
 nas ri\er, and. about 1,000 feet above the 
 sea. i 
 
 Decrmhcr the (ith was a beautiful day, fol- 
 lowed by a cold frosty night. ; 
 The ne.vt day we descended to the valley | 
 of the Si.linus river, the weather continuing 
 clear and pleasant during the day. Snow 
 appeared on the mountains on b(jth sides of 1 
 the vuUey, and a cloud from some of tliein ! 
 gave ii .flight shower during the night. Se- 
 veral piiccessive days were clear, with hot 
 sun ; the nights cold, starry, and frosty. The 
 new grass on the liills was coming out vigo- | 
 rously. The morning of the 10th was keen 
 and clear, with scattered clouds, and a south- 
 erly wind, which brought u|) .showers of rain 
 at "night, followed by fog in the morning. | 
 On the 1 2th, at the mission of Santa Mar- 
 garita, in the head of the Salinas valley, rain 
 began in the afternoon, with a cold wind, and 
 soon increased to a southeasterly storm, with 
 lieavy rain during all the night. The 13th 
 was cloudy, with occasional showers. Dur- ; 
 ing the night the weather became very bad, ; 
 and by morning had increased to a violent ; 
 and cold southeasterly rain storm. In the 
 afternoon the storm subsided, and was fol- i 
 lowed by several days of variable weather, j 
 By tlio 19th, the country where we were j 
 travelling between San Luis Obispo and the ! 
 Cuesta of SaiUa Ines, showed a handsome ': 
 covering of gras.s, which required two weeks ■ 
 more to Iwcome excellent. There were 
 several days of warm weather, with occa- 
 sional showers and hot sun, and cattle began 
 to seek the shade. 
 
 The '23d was a day of hard rain, followed 
 by tine weather on the 24th, and a cold 
 southeasterly rain storm on the 25th. 
 
 During the remainder of the year, the 
 W(>ather continued fair and cool. 
 
 No ridn fell during the first half of ./i/n;)- 
 aril, which we passed between Santa Bar- 
 bara and Los Angeles : the days were bright 
 niJ very pleas.int, with warm sun ; and the 
 iiiiliits, generally, cold. In the ne;>l''<'ted 
 oixhurds of the San Buenaventura and Fer- 
 
 nando nii--sior.s, the olive trees r.'tn-.'ilneJ 
 loaded with the ai)imdanl friiil. uhlcli C'":- 
 tinued in perierllv good condition. 
 
 About the 1 Itli, a day of rain succeeeiu 
 by an interval of tine weather, again in'er- 
 riipled liy a rainy, disagreeable soulheai-t.':'' 
 on the 23d. I)u-ing the remainder of tlio 
 month the days were brii;.'.t and pleasr.nl— 
 almost of summer — sun and ci.'iids varyin;", 
 the nights clear, but souietiines ;i little co!:! ; 
 and mucdi snow showinu on tiie mouiita. ; 
 overlooking thi! plain^ of San (iabriel. 
 
 In the first part of f'7(,'Vian/, at Los Ar. 
 i^i'lvs, there were some foggy and ini.-iy 
 mornings, with showers of rain at intervals 
 of a week. The weatlujr then remained for 
 several weeks uninterruptedly and lieauti- 
 fiilly serene, the sky remarkably pure, the 
 air soft and gratel'ul. and it was dillicult to 
 imagine any climate more deligl/tful. In 
 the meantime the processes of vei:e!alio:i 
 went on with singular rapidity, and. by t!i' 
 end of the month, the face of the coun; ry 
 was beautilul with the great abundance ji 
 pasture, covered with a lu.vuriaiil growth ci 
 f^eratiiiini, {rroilinin riculiiriiim,) so e.-- 
 teeined as food for cattle and horses, and";dl 
 grazing animals, 'i'lie orange trees wcve 
 crowded with flowers and fruit in various 
 sizes, and along the foot of the mountain, 
 bordering the San Gabriel plain, tields of 
 orange-colored flowers were visible at tlic 
 distance of fifteen miles from Lf)s Angeles, 
 
 In the midst of the bright weaiiior there 
 was occasionally a cold night. In the morn- 
 ing of March 9, new snow appeared on tiv.; 
 San Gabriel mountain, and there was frost 
 in the plain below ; but these occasionally 
 cold nights seemed to have no influence on 
 vegetation. 
 
 On the 23d and 27th of March tliere were 
 some continued and heavy showers of rain, 
 about the last of the season in the southern 
 country. In the latter part of April fogs 
 began to lie very frequent, rising at midnight 
 and continuing until 9 or 10 of the follow- 
 ing morning. About the beginning of May 
 the mornings were regularly foggy until near 
 noon ; the remainder of the day sunny, fre- 
 quently accompanied with high wind. 
 
 The climate of maritime California i.3 
 greatly modified by the .structure of the 
 countrv, and under this aspect may be con- 
 sidereil in three divisions — the soiillirrn, lie- 
 low Point Coiu'ei)tion and the Santa Barbara 
 mountain, about latitude 35° ; the nurllicrn, 
 from f "ape Mendocino, latitude 41"^, to the 
 Oregon boundary ; and the rniddlp, including 
 the bay and basin of San Francisco and tiio 
 coast between Point Conception and Cape 
 Mendocino. Of those three divisions llie 
 rainy season is longest and heavir-,t in the 
 nortli and lightest in the south. Vegeiution 
 is governed accordingly — c;oiiiiiig with the 
 
till' olivo Irc'O;- ivrr.iiiicj 
 uIiiiikImiiI fniil. \vlii( li c".:- 
 y irnod I'diiilitiim. 
 ii, a (lay cil' r.iiii micpi'ooi ii 
 f till'.' wfMtiicr, ajrain iiP'.-r- 
 ly, (llHajirccalili' >oiillii'a:4;:' 
 i-liii| till' rcniaiinlcr of tJK 
 wcrr lirij;.;! an'! |il'';'.s;;iil— 
 r — sun and li'iKJ-i varyin::; 
 Itiil SdiiR'tliiK^s a liUlo col:' ■, 
 .■^limvitiL' I'll till' iiioimta ■"; 
 ilalii- III' San lialiricl. 
 irt of Fi'liriKin/. at Los .\r. 
 ii! some loiiirv and iiii,-iy 
 showers ol' rain at interniis 
 weather then reiiiaiiied lor 
 miiiterniiitedly and 'jeaiiti- 
 sliv reinarkahly pnre, the 
 tel'iil. am! it was dillicult to 
 iniate more deliirlitt'iil. In 
 he processes of veiietatiou 
 ;in<riilar rapidity, and. by t)i' 
 itli, the lace of the couiiiry 
 ith the <rreat abniidaiice A 
 with a luxuriant {jrowth ';i 
 iliiuii ric III (trill III,) so t'.-- 
 lor cattle and horses, mKlVdl 
 . 'riio oranjre trees wove 
 lowers and fruit in various 
 ; the foot of the nioiinlain, 
 km Gabriel jilain. tields of 
 flowers were visible at the 
 ;n miles from Ixis Anijoles. 
 of the britiht wcaiiior there 
 'f a cold ni^ht. In the morn- 
 new snow appeared on tlvj 
 mntaiii, and there was frost 
 low ; but these occasionally 
 incd to have no influence on 
 
 nd 27th of March there were 
 1 and heavy showers of rain, 
 r the season hi the southern 
 10 latter part of April fojrs 
 f frequent, risinijf at midnight 
 until 9 or 10 of the follow- 
 \boiit the beginning of May 
 3ro rogularly fogpy until near 
 inder of the day sunny, frc- 
 anied with high wind. 
 
 of maritime California i.3 
 [1 by the strtictnre of the 
 ider this aspect may bo con- 
 divisions — the siniihi'ni, Ixi- 
 'jition and the Santa Barbara 
 : latitude ,35° ; the wr/heni, 
 idocino, latitude 'H~^, to the 
 ■y ; and the midill", iiicliidiii? 
 in of San Francisco and liie 
 Point Conception and Cape 
 f those three divisions liio 
 longest ;ind heaviest in the 
 St ill the south. Ve^i'tatiou 
 [•ordini'lv — I'oiiihur with the 
 
 UPON rri'KR CALU'OILMA. 
 
 39 
 
 rainr» — <!eca/'n',T wiiere they fail. Siiniiner 
 and winter, in our sense of the t 'rms, are 
 not applicable to this part of the country. It 
 is not heat and cnM, but wet and dry, which 
 mark the seasons; ami the winter months, 
 instead of killing vegetation, revive it. The 
 dry season makes a period of consecutive 
 drought, the only winter in the vegetation of 
 this country, which can hardly be said at any 
 time to cease. In forests, where the soil is 
 filipltered ; in low lands of streams and hilly 
 country, where the ground remains moist, 
 ffniss conliiiiies constan'-y green and (lowers 
 bloom in all the months of the year. In the 
 southern half of the country the long sum- 
 mer drought has reriiered irrigation neces- 
 sary, and the experi; iice of the missions, in 
 their prosperous liay, has shown tlial, in 
 California, as elsewhere, the dryost plains 
 are made productive, and the heaviest crops 
 pr^vliiped by that mixle of cultivation. With 
 irrigation a succession of crops may be pro 
 uuced throughout the year. Salubrity and a 
 regulated mildness characteri'/.e the climate ; 
 there being no prevailing diseases, and the 
 extremes of heat during the summer being 
 checked by sea breezes during the day, and 
 by light airs from the Sierra Nevada during 
 the night. The nights are generally cool 
 and rcfreshiUij, as is the e] udc during the 
 hottef t day. 
 
 Calilonua, beliiw tiie Sierra Nevielr, ,> 
 about the extent of Italy, geogrMphicil'v coii- 
 siilered in all the extent of Italy fro!;i tli-i 
 Alps to the teniiiiiation nf the pi niiisir-i. It 
 is of the same length, about the same ' re^dtli, 
 con-eiiiiently the .-^ame area (about on .• laiii- 
 died thousand sijiiare milesj, aiul rrr.;entrf 
 much similarity of climate and prviUK't'ons. 
 Like Italy, it lies north and south, and pio- 
 sents some dilVerences of climate and pr >• 
 ductioii'J, the eirecl of diirerence of laliluiit:. 
 proximity of high mountains, and conligiira- 
 tion of the coast. Like Italy, it is a country 
 of iiiouiitains and valleys ; ditVereiit froi.i il 
 ill its internal structure, il is formed for 
 unihj; its large rivers being concentric, and 
 its largo valleys ajipurtenaiit to the great cen- 
 tral bay of San Francisco, within the area 
 of whose waters the doiiiiiiatiiig power nvvn 
 bo found. 
 
 Geographicallv, the position of this Cal'.- 
 fornia is one of tiie iicst in the world ; lying 
 on the coast of the Pacific, fron'ing Asia, ou 
 the line of an American roac! to A:ia, and 
 possessed of advantages to ;Wvo full eifectto 
 its grand geographical posi'.ion. 
 
 AH which is respectfully cu' n^'itted ; 
 
 J. CHARLES iliEMONT. 
 
 Wasjukgton, Jam, 1S43. 
 
MISS 
 
 To Colon* 
 
 Chief 
 Sir: A 
 and repor 
 frontiers o 
 the Rocky 
 Kansas a 
 from Was 
 1842, anc 
 New Yorl 
 cessary pi 
 expeditior 
 steamboat 
 hundred r 
 Hear the i 
 we proce< 
 Chouteau 
 Dieted ou 
 lion. 
 
 Bad m 
 nomical 
 days in t 
 which is 
 river, abo 
 six beyon 
 The sky 
 enabled 1 
 tude 94o 
 The ele\ 
 feet. O 
 an animi 
 busily oc 
 arrange n 
 derness, 
 the verg( 
 with all 1 
 nomadic 
 summer 
 thing — tl 
 horses, 
 place, ai 
 
A REPORT 
 
 AN EXPLORATION OF THE COUNTRY 
 
 LTIKO BETWBtR TO! 
 
 MISSOURI RIVER AND THE ROCKY MOUNLUNS, 
 
 OR THE LINl or 
 
 THE KANSAS AND GREAT PLATTE RIVERS. 
 
 Washington, March 1, 1843. I 
 To Colonel J. J- Abert, 
 
 Chief of thi! Corps of Top. Eng : 
 Sir : Agreeably to your orders to explore 
 and report upon the country between the 
 frontiers of Missouri and the South Pass in 
 the Rocky mountains, and on the line of the 
 Kansas and Great Platto rivers, I set out 
 from Washington city on the 2d day of May, 
 1842, and arrived at St. Louis, by way of 
 New York, the 2-2d of May, where the ne- 
 cessary preparations were completed, and the 
 expedition commenced. I proceeded in a 
 steamboat to Chouteau's landing, about four 
 hundred miles by water from St. Louis, and 
 Hear the mouth of the Kansas river, whence 
 we proceeded twelve miles to Mr. Cyprian 
 Chouteau's trading house, where we coni- 
 pleted our final arrangements lor the expedi- 
 tion. . 
 
 Bad weather, which interfered with astro- 
 nomical observations, delayed us several 
 days in the early part of June at this post, 
 which is on the right bank of the Kansas 
 river, about ten miles above the mouth, and 
 six beyond the western boundary of Missouri. 
 The sky cleared ofTat length, and we were 
 enabled to determine our position, in longi- 
 tude 94o 25' 46", and latitude 39° 6' 57". 
 The elevation above the sea is about 700 
 feet. Our camp, in the meantime, presented 
 an animated and bustling scene. All were 
 busily occupied in completing the necessary 
 arrangements for our campaign in the wil- 
 derness, and profiting by this short delay on 
 the verge of civilisation, to provide ourselves 
 with all the little essentials to comfort in the 
 nomadic life we were to lead for the ensuing 
 summer months. Gradually, however, every- 
 thing — the maleriel of the camj), men, 
 horses, and even mules— settled into its 
 place, and by the lOtli we were ready to de- 
 
 part ; but, before we mount our horses, I will 
 give a short description of tiie party with 
 which I performed this service. 
 
 I had collected in the neighborhood of St. 
 Louis twenty-one men, principally Creole and 
 Canadian voyageurs, who had become fami- 
 liar with prairie life in the service of the fur 
 companies in the Indian country. Mr. 
 Charles Preuss, a native of Germany, was 
 my assistant in the topographical part of the 
 survey. L. Maxwell, of Kaskaskia, had 
 been engaged as hunter, and Christopher 
 Carson (more familiarly known, for his ex- 
 ploits in the mountains, as Kit Carson) was 
 our guide. The persons engaged in St. 
 Louis were : 
 
 Clement Lambert, J. B. L'Esperance, J. 
 B. Lefevre, Benjamin Potra, Louis Gouin, 
 J. B. Dum^s, Basil Lajeunesse, Fran9oi8 
 Tessier, Benjamin Cadotte, Joseph Climent, 
 Daniel Simonds, Leonard Benoit, Michel 
 Morly, Baptiste Bernier, Ilonore Ayot, Fran- 
 9oi8 Latulippe, Fran9ois Badeau, Louis Me- 
 nard, Joseph Ruelle, Moise Chardonnais, 
 Auguste Janisse, Raphael Proue. 
 
 In addition to these, Henry Brant, son of 
 Col. J. B. Brant, of St. Louis, a young man 
 of nineteen years of age, and Randolph, a 
 lively boy of twelve, son of the Hon. Thomas 
 H. Benton, accompanied me, for the develop- 
 ment of mind and body which such an expe- 
 dition would give. We were all well armed 
 and mounted, with the exception of eight 
 men, who conducted as many carts, in which 
 were packed our stores, with the baggage 
 and instruments, and which were each drawn 
 by two mules. A few loose horses, and four 
 oxen, which had been added to our stock of 
 provisions, completed the train. We set out 
 on the morning of the lOtli, which happened 
 to be Friday — a circumstance which our men 
 did not fail to remember and recall during 
 
CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE. 
 
 [1842. 
 
 the hnrdfihins find vexations of the ennuing 
 
 i'ourncy. Mr. Cyprian Cliouteaii, to whope 
 sindncsR, during our stay at his house, wc 
 were much indebted, accompanied us several 
 miles on our way, until we met an Indian, 
 whom he had engaged to conduct us on the 
 first thirty or forty miles, where he was to 
 consign us to the ocean of prairie, which, we 
 were told, stretched without interruption al- 
 most to the base of the Rocky mountains. 
 
 From the belt of wood which borders the 
 Kansas, in wliich we had passed several 
 good-looking Indian farms, wc suddenly 
 emerged on the prairies, which received us 
 at the outset with some of their striking cha- 
 racteristics ; for here and there rode an In- 
 dian, and but a few miles distant heavy clouds 
 of smoke were rolling before the (ire. In 
 about ten miles we reached the Santa Fe 
 road, along which we continued for a short 
 time, and encamped early on a small stream ; 
 having travelled about eleven miles. Dur- 
 ing our journey, it was the customary prac- 
 tice to encamp an hour or two before sunset, 
 whe;i the carts were disposed so as to form 
 a sort of barricade around a circle some 
 eighty yards in diameter. The tents were 
 pitched, and the horses liobbled and turned 
 loose to graze ; and but a few minutes 
 elapsed before the cooks of the messes, of 
 which there were four, were busily engaged 
 in preparing the evening meal. At night- 
 fall, the horses, mules, and oxen, were driven 
 in and picketed — that is, secured by a halter, 
 of which one end was tied to a small steel- 
 shod picket, and driven into the ground ; the 
 halter being twenty or thirty feet long, vhicli 
 enabled them to obtain a little food during 
 the night. When we had reached a part of 
 the country where stich a precaution became 
 necessary, the carts being regularly arranged 
 for defending the camp, guard was mounted 
 at eight o'clock, consisting of three men, 
 who were relieved every two hours; the 
 morning watch being horse guard for the day. 
 At davbreak, the camp was roused, tlie ani- 
 mals turned loose to graze, and breakfast 
 generally over between six and seven o'clock, 
 when we resumed our march, making regu- 
 larly a halt at noon for one or two hours. 
 Sucli was usually the onler of the day, ex- 
 cept when accident of co'intry forced a varia- 
 tion ; which, however, happened but ra.ely. 
 We travelled the next day alofg the 8anfa 
 FAroad, which we left in the afternoon, and 
 encamoed late m the evening on a small 
 creek, called by the Indians Mishmagwi. 
 Just as we arrived at camp, one of the horses 
 set off at full speed on his return, and was 
 followed by others. Several men were sent 
 in pursuit, and returned with the fugitives 
 about midnight, with the exception of one 
 man, who did not make his appearance until 
 morning, He had lost his way in the dark- 
 
 ness of the niglit, and slept on the prairie. 
 Shortly after midnight it began to rain hea- 
 vily, and, as our tents were of light and thin 
 cloth, they offered but little obstruction to 
 rain ; we were all well soaked, and gind when 
 morninji came. We had a rainy march on 
 the 12th, but the weather grew tine as the 
 day advanced. Weencamiicil it. a remarka- 
 bly beautiful situation on the Kansas bluffs, 
 which commanded a tine view of the river 
 valley, here from three to foiir miles wide. 
 The central portion was occupied by a broad 
 belt of heavy tindier, and nearer the hills the 
 prairies were of the richest verdure. One 
 of the oxen was killed here for food. 
 
 We reached the ford of the Kansas late 
 in the afternoon of the 11th, where the river 
 was two hundred and thirty yards wide, and 
 commenced immediately preparations for 
 crossing. I had expected to find the river 
 fordable : but it had been swollen by the late 
 rains, and was sweeping by with an angry 
 current, yellow and turbid as .ne Missouri. 
 Up to this point, the road we had travelled 
 WHS a remarkably fine one, well beaten, and 
 level — the usual road of a ])niirie country. 
 I]y our route, the ford was one himdred 
 miles from the mouth of the Kansas rive^. 
 Several mounted men led the way into the 
 stream, to swim across. The animals were 
 driven in after them, and in a few miputes 
 all had reached the opposite bank in safety, 
 with the exception of the oxen, which swam 
 some distance down the river, and, returning 
 to the right bank, were not got over until 
 the next morning. In the meantime, the 
 carts had been unloaded and dismantled, and 
 an India-rubber boat, which I had brought 
 with me for the survey of tiie Pintle river, 
 placed in the \\ater. The boat wa.^ twenty 
 feet long and five broad, and on it were 
 placed the body and wheels of a cart, with 
 the load belonging to it, and three men with 
 paddles. 
 
 The velocity of the current, and the incon- 
 venient freight, rendering it difficult to be 
 managed, Basil Lajeunesse, one of our best 
 swimmers, took in his teeth a line attached 
 to the boat, and swam ahead in order to 
 reach a footing as soon as possible, and as- 
 sist in drawing her over. In this manner, 
 six pa.afjiges had been successfully made, 
 and as many carts with their contents, and 
 a greater portion of the party, deposited on 
 the left bank ; but night was drawing neat; 
 and, in our anxiety to have ail over helbre 
 the darkness closed in, I put upon the boat 
 the remaining two carts, with their accom- 
 panying load. The man at the helm was 
 timid on vs'ater, and, '."■ ,;i- alarm, capsized 
 the boat. Carts, barreir-, boxes, and bales, 
 were in a moment floating down the current ; 
 but all the men who were on the shore 
 jtimocd into the water, without stopping to 
 
ilio 
 
 [1842. 
 
 nnd filrpt on the prairie. 
 nipiit it bcpan to rain lion- 
 Iciitswpre of lif.'lit and tliin 
 but little obstruction to 
 well soaked, and plad when 
 We had a rainy march on 
 ' weather prew tine as the 
 Weencarnped it. aremarka- 
 lation (in the Kansa.« bluffs, 
 '<1 a fine view of the river 
 three to four miles wide, 
 ion was occupied ity a broad 
 lier, and nearer the hills the 
 he richest verdure. One 
 ilied here for food. 
 
 ford of the Kansas late 
 
 if the 11th, where the river 
 
 1 and thirty yards wide, and 
 
 mediately preparations for 
 
 e.Npectcd to find tlie river 
 
 ad been swollen by the late 
 
 weeping by with an angry 
 
 and turbid as .ne Missouri. 
 
 the road we had travelled 
 
 ly fine one, well beaten, and 
 
 road of a ])niirie country. 
 
 the ford was one hundred 
 
 nouth of th" Kansas rivei, 
 
 ] m^n led the way into the 
 
 across. The animals were 
 
 hem, and in a few minutes 
 
 the opposite bank in safety, 
 
 on of the oxen, which swam 
 
 own the river, and, returning 
 
 nk, were not got over until 
 
 ing. In the meantime, the 
 
 inloaded and dismantled, and 
 
 boat, which I had brought 
 
 survey of fiie Platte liver, 
 
 iter. 'Die boat was twenty 
 
 ive broad, and on it were 
 
 and wheels of a cart, with 
 
 ng to it, and three men with 
 
 of the current, and the incon- 
 rendering it difficult to be 
 Lajeunesse, one of our best 
 in his teeth a line attached 
 1 swam ahead in order to 
 as soon as possible, and as- 
 her over. In this manner, 
 id been succesffully made, 
 rts with their contents, and 
 1 of the party, deposited on 
 ut night was drawing near, 
 ety to liave all over before 
 sed in, I put upon the boat 
 .vo carts, with tlieir accom- 
 J'he man at the helm was 
 and, ':i ,;i- alarm, capsized 
 S barrei.-, boxes, and bales, 
 nt floating down the current ; 
 ■n who were on the shore 
 water, without stopping to 
 
 1843.] 
 
 CAPT. FRK.MONT'S NAR11.\T1VK. 
 
 f 
 
 think if they could swim, and almost every- 
 thing — even heavy articles, such as guns 
 knd lead — was recovered. 
 
 Two of the men, who could not swim, 
 came nigli being drowned, and all the sugar 
 belonging to one of the mo«ses wasted its 
 dweeta on the muddy waters ; but our hea- 
 viest loss was a bag of coffee, which con- 
 tained nearly all our provision. It was a 
 loss which none but a traveller in a strange 
 and inhospitable country can appreciate ; and 
 often afterward, when excessive toil and long 
 marching had overcome us with fatigue and 
 weariness, we remeinbercd and mourned 
 over our lo'?s in the Kansas, (.'arson and 
 Maxwell had been much in the water yes- 
 terday, and both, in consequence, were taken 
 ill. The former continuing so, I remained 
 in camp. A number of Kansas Indians 
 visited us to-day. Going up to one of the 
 groups who were scattered among the tree.s, 
 1 found one sitting on the ground, among 
 some of the men, gravely and fluently speak- 
 ing French, with as much facility and as 
 little embarrassment as any of ray own 
 party, who were nearly all ofFrench origin. 
 
 On all sides was heard the strange lan- 
 guage of his own people, wild, and harmon- 
 izing well with their appearance. I listened 
 to him for some time with feelings of strange 
 curiosity and interest. He was now appa- 
 rently thirty-five years of age ; and, on in- 
 quiry, I learned that he had been at St. Ixiuis 
 when a boy, and there had learned the 
 French language. PVom one of the Indian 
 women I obtained a fine cow and calf in ex- 
 change for a yoke of oxen. Several of them 
 brought us vegetables, pumpkins, onions, 
 beans, and lettuce. One of them brought 
 butter, and from a half-breed near the river 
 ( had the good fortune to obtain some twenty 
 or thirty pounds of coffee. The dense tim- 
 ber in which we liad encamped interfered 
 with astronomical observations, and our wet 
 and damaged stores required exposure to the 
 sun. Accordingly, the tents were struck early 
 the next morning, and, leaving camp at six 
 o'clock, we moved about seven miles up the 
 river, to a handsome, open prairie, some 
 twenty feet above the water, where the fine 
 grass afforded a luxurious repast to our 
 horses. 
 
 During the day we occupied ourselves in 
 making astronomical observations, in order 
 to lay down the country to tliis place ; it 
 being our custom to keep up our map regu- 
 larly in the field, which we found attended 
 with many advantages. The men were 
 kept busy in drying the provisions, painting 
 the cart covers, and otherwise completing 
 our equipage, until the afternoon, when pow- 
 der was distributed to them, and they spent 
 some hours in firiiio; at a mark. We were 
 now fairly in the Indian country, and it be- 
 
 gan to bo time to prepare for the chances of 
 the wilderness. 
 
 Friday, June 17. — The weather yesterday 
 had not permitted us to innkc the olwerva- 
 tiiiiis I was desirous to obtain here, and I 
 therefore did not move to-day. The people 
 continued their target firing. In the steep 
 bank of the river here, were nests of iniiu- 
 meriilile swallows, into one of which a large 
 prairie snake had got alwiit half his IhmIv, 
 and was occupied in eating the young birds. 
 The old ones were flying about in great dis- 
 tress, darting at him, and vainly endeavoring 
 to drive him oft". A shot wounded him, and, 
 being killed, he was cut open, and eighteen 
 young swallows were found in his body. A 
 sudden storm, that burst upon us in the af- 
 ternoon, cleared away in a brilliant sunset, 
 followed by a clear night, which enabled us 
 to determine our position in longitude 95° 
 38' 05", and in latitude 39" Ofi' 4U' 
 
 A party of emigrants to the Columbia 
 river, under the charge of Dr. White, an 
 agent of the Government in Oregon 'terri- 
 tory, were about three weeks in advance of 
 us. They consisted of men, women, and 
 children. There were sixty-four men, and 
 sixteen or seventeen families. They had a 
 considerable number of cattle, and were 
 transporting their household furniture in 
 largo heavy wagons. I understood that there 
 ban been much sickness among them, and 
 that they had lost several children. One of 
 the party who had lost his child, and whose 
 wife was very ill, had left them about one 
 hundred miles hence on the prairies; and as 
 a hunter, who had accompanied them, visited 
 our camp this evening, we availed ourselves 
 of his return to the States to write to our 
 friends. 
 
 The morning of the 18th was very unplea- 
 sant. A fine rain was falling, with cold 
 wind •"rom the north, and mists made the 
 river hills look dark and gloomy. We left 
 our camp at seven, journeying along the foot 
 of the hiils which border the Kansas valley, 
 generally about three miles wide, and e,x- 
 tremcly rich. We halted for dinner, after a 
 m.arch of about thirteen miles, on the banks 
 of one of the many little tributaries to the 
 Kansas, which look like trenches in the 
 prairie, and are usually well timbered. Af- 
 ter crossing this stream, I rode off some 
 miles to the left, attracted by the appearance 
 of a cluster of huts near the mouth of the 
 Vermillion. It was a large but deserted Kan- 
 sas village, scattered in an open wood, along 
 the margin of the stream, on a spot chosen 
 with the customary Indian fondness for beauty 
 of scenery. The Pawnees had attacked it 
 in the early spring. Some of the houses 
 were burnt, and others blackened with 
 smoke, and weeds were already getting pos- 
 session of the cleared places. Riding up 
 
CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE. 
 
 [184a 
 
 the Vermillion river, I rcarlied tlif ford in 
 time to meet tlio rarts, niul, crossin<;, rn- 
 campeil on iu western side. 'I'lie weallior 
 conliniied cool, the liiermoniefer beinp this 
 evening H» low bs 49°; hut the nij,'lit was 
 •ulliciently dear for astronomicnl obscrva- 
 tioriH, which placed us in lon^iludo 90° 04' 
 07', and latitude 39° 15' 19". At Bunset, 
 tlie barometer was at 28.845, thermonieter 
 «4°. 
 
 We breakfasted the next morning at lialf 
 past five, and left our encampment early. 
 The morninjj was cool, the thermometer 
 being at 45^. Qnittinfj the river bottom, 
 the road ran alonjj the uplands, over a roll- 
 ing country, generally in view of the Kan- 
 sas fn)m eight to twelve miles distant. 
 Many large boulders, of a very compact 
 sandstone, of various shades of red, some of 
 them four or five tons in weight, were scat- 
 tcrwl along the hills; and many beautiful 
 plants in llowcr, among which tiie anwrpha 
 cancsrens was a characteristic, enlivened the 
 green of the prairie. At the heads of the 
 ravines I remarked, occasionally, thickets 
 of sali.v Inritiifdlia, the ^jiost common willow 
 of the country. We travelled nineteen 
 miles, and pitched our tents at evening on 
 the head waters of a small creek, now nearly 
 dry, but having in its bed several line springs. 
 The barometer indicated a considerable rise 
 in the country — here about fourteen hundred 
 feet above the sea — and the increased eleva- 
 tion appeared already to have some slight 
 influence upon the vegetation. The night 
 was cold, with a heavy dew ; the thermome- 
 ter at 10 p. m. standing at 4(1°, barometer 
 28 483. Our position was in longitude 96° 
 14' 49", and latitude 39° 30' 40 '. 
 
 The morning of the 20lii was line, with a 
 southerly breeze and a bright sky ; and at 
 seven o'clock we were on the march. The 
 country to-day was rather more broken, ris- 
 ing still, and covered everywhere with frag- 
 ments of siliceous limestone, particularly on 
 Jie summits, where they were small, and 
 thickly strewed as pebbles on the shore of 
 the sea. In these exposed situations grew 
 but few plants ; though, whenever the soil 
 was good and protected from the winds, in 
 the creek bottoms and ravines, and on the 
 slopes, they flourished abundantly ; among 
 them the amorpha, still retaining its charac- 
 teristic place. We crossed at 10 a. m., the 
 Big Vermillion, which has a rich bottom of 
 about one mile in breadth, one-third of which 
 i« occupied by timber. Making our usual 
 halt at noon, after a day's march of twc»ty- 
 four miles, we readied the Big Blue, and 
 encamped on the uplands of tiie western 
 side, near a small creek, where was a tine 
 large spring of very cold water. This is a 
 clear and huuGsome stream, about one hun- 
 dred and twenty feet wide, running, with a 
 
 rapid current, through a well-tinilwrcd vtl 
 ley. To-day nnlelope were seen running; 
 over till! hills, and at evening Carson brought 
 us a tine doer. JiOngitude of the camp 90^ 
 32- 35 ', latitude 39" At> 08. " Thermome- 
 ter at sunset Ib'^. A nleasant southerly 
 breeze and line morning liad given place to 
 a gale, with indications of bad weather; 
 when, after a march of ten miles, we halted 
 to no(m on a small creek, where the watf r 
 stood in deep pools. In the banK of the 
 creek limestone made its appearance in a 
 stratum about one foot thick. In the after 
 noon, the people seemed to sufl'er for want 
 of water. The road led along a high dry 
 ridgn ; dark lines of timber indicated the 
 heads of streams in the plains below ; but 
 there was no water near, and the day was 
 very oppressive, with a hot wind, and the 
 thermometer at 90*. Along our route the 
 amnrpliii has been in very abundant but va- 
 riable bloom — in some places bending be- 
 neath the weight of purple clusters ; in oth- 
 ers without a flower. It seems to love best 
 the sunny slopes, with a dark soil and gouth- 
 ern e.\posurp. Everywhere the rose is met 
 with, and reminds us of cultivated gardens 
 and civilisation. It is scattered over the 
 prairies in small bouquets, and, when glitter- 
 ing in the dews and waving in the pleasant 
 breeze of the early morning, is the mcst 
 beautiful of the prairie flowers. The arte- 
 misia, ahsinthe, or prairie sage, as it is va- 
 riously chlled, is increasing in size, and glit- 
 ters like silver, as the soutliern breeze turns 
 up its loaves to the sun. All these plants 
 have their insect inhabitants, variously color- 
 ed ; taking generally the hue of the flower 
 on which they live. The artemisia has its 
 small fly accompanying it through every 
 change of elevation and latitude ; and wher- 
 ever I have seen the asclepias luberosa, I 
 have always remarked, too, on the flower a 
 large butterfly, so nearly resembling it in 
 color as to be distinguishable at a little dis- 
 tance only by the motion of its wings. Tra- 
 velling on, the fresh traces cf the Oregon 
 emigrants relieve a little the loneliness of 
 the road ; and to-night, after a march of 
 twenty-two miles, we halted on a small 
 creek, which had been one of their encamp- 
 ments. As we advance westward, the soil 
 appears to be getting more sandy, and the 
 surface rock, an erratic deposite of sand and 
 gravel, rests here on a bed of coarse yellow 
 and grey and very friable sandstone. Even- 
 ing closed over with rain and its usual at- 
 tendant hordes of musquitoes, with which 
 we were annoyed for the first time. 
 
 June 22. — We enjoyed at breakfast this 
 morning a luxury, very unusual in this 
 country, in a cup of excellent coft'ee, with 
 cream from our cow. Being milked at 
 night, cream was thus had in tlie morning. 
 
r:. 
 
 [1843. 
 
 rdiigh a well-tinilwrcd val 
 ti.'l()|)(? wrre seen running 
 I at evpiiinp Carson brouglit 
 I -011(1 it lido iif the camp 1*0*' 
 3!}" 45' 08. • Thcrinomc- 
 75". A nlcasnnt southerly 
 inorninjr liad given place to 
 idicationa of Lad weather; 
 rch of ten miles, wo lialtcci 
 mil creeli, where the water 
 pools. In the banK of the 
 made its appearance in a 
 le foot thick. In the nfler 
 seemed to siifler for want 
 road led ulong a high dry 
 of timher mdicated the 
 IS in the plains below ; but 
 ater near, and the day was 
 with a hot wind, and the 
 90*. Alonnr our route the 
 ?en in very abundant, but va- 
 n some places bendinp bo- 
 lt of purple clusters ; in otli- 
 ower. It seems to love best 
 ?, with a dark soil and gouth- 
 I'iVcrywhere the rose is met 
 ids us of cultivated pardeiia 
 It is scattered over the 
 bouquets, and, when glitter- 
 aiid waving in the pleasant 
 early morning, is the most 
 prairie flowers. The arle- 
 ^ or prairie sage, as it is va- 
 s increasing in size, and glit- 
 as the southern breeze turns 
 o the sun. Ail these plants 
 :t inhabitants, variously color- 
 icrally the hue of the flower 
 live. The artemisia has its 
 inpanying it through every 
 ition and latitude ; and wher- 
 ?en the asclepias tuberosa, I 
 ;inarked, too, on the flower a 
 , so nearly resembling it in 
 Jistiiiguishable at a little dis- 
 lie motion of its wings. Tra- 
 fresh traces cf the Oregon 
 H'e a little the loneliness of 
 to-night, after a march of 
 iles, we halted on a small 
 ad been one of their encamp- 
 D advance westward, the soil 
 getting more sandy, and the 
 n erratic deposite of sand and 
 're on a bed of coarse yellow 
 ery friable sandstone. Even- 
 r with rain and its usual at- 
 3 of musquitoes, with which 
 'cd for the first time. 
 Vo enjoyed at breakfast this 
 xiiry, very unusual in this 
 :up of excellent coffee, with 
 ur cow. Being milked at 
 as thus had in tlie morning. 
 
 1843.] 
 
 CAPT. 1<MU:.\I0\T\S NARRATI\ H 
 
 Our m'd-day lir.lt was at Wyeth's creek, in 
 the bc<l of which were nuiiii'roiiH huiildcr.s 
 of dark forruginous sandittoiie, iiiiiigli'd with 
 ntherij of the red Kandntone airt'ndy nuMi- 
 tioned. Here a pack of cards, lyiii;; loose 
 un tiie grass, iiiiirked an encanipniciil of our 
 Oregon eiiiigrant.s ; and it wii.s at the clo.so 
 uf the day when we made our bivouac in the 
 midft of some well-tiinliered ravines near the 
 Little liluc, twenly-tour miles from our 
 rainp of the preceding right, (-"rossing the 
 next morning a number of handsome creeks, 
 n'ilh clear water and sandy beds, we reacln'd, 
 at 10 a. in., a very beautiful wooded stream, 
 about tliirly-tivo feet wide, called Sandy 
 creek, and souiotimes, as the Ottoe.s fre- 
 quently winter there, the Otto fork. The 
 country has become very sandy, and the 
 plants less varied and abundant, with the 
 o.Kceplion oi' the anuirphn, which rivals the 
 grass in ipiaiitity, though not so forward as 
 it has been loimd to the eastward. 
 
 At the JJig 'i'rees, where wo had intended 
 to noon, no water was to be tound. The bed 
 of the little creek was perfectly dry, and, on 
 tlie adjacent sandy bottom, cnrt'i, for the lirst 
 time, made their appearance. We made 
 here a short delay in search of water ; and, 
 alter a hard day's inarch of twenty-eight 
 miles, encain|]ed, at 5 o'clock, on the Little 
 Blue, where our arrival made a scene of the 
 Arabian desert. As fast as they arrived, men 
 md horses .uslied into the stream, where 
 they bathed and drank together in common 
 enjoyment. We were now in the range of 
 the i'awnees, who were accustomed to inlest 
 tills part of the country, stealing horses from 
 companies on their way to tlie moiiiitaiiis, 
 and, when in sullicient force, openly attack- 
 ing and plundering them, and subjecting 
 »hem to various kinds of insult. For the 
 'irst time, therefore, guard was mounted to- 
 night. Our route the no.\t morning lay up 
 the valley, wliich, bordered by hills with 
 grateful .-lopes, looked uncommonly green 
 and beautit'iil. The stream was about lilty 
 feet wide, and three or four deep, fringed by 
 cotton wood and willow, with frequent groves 
 of oak tenanted by ilocks of turkeys. Game 
 here, too, made its appearance in greater 
 plenty. VAk were frequently seen on the 
 hills, and now and then an antelope bouiuled 
 across our path, or a deer broke from the 
 ixroves. The road in the afternoon was over 
 tlio upper prairies, several miles from the 
 river, and we encamped at sun.sct on one of 
 its small tributaries, where an abundance of 
 prele {equiiiHum) alUirded tine forage to our 
 tired animals. We had travelled tliirty-one 
 miles. A heavy bank of black clouds in the 
 west caine on us in a storm between nine 
 and ten, preceded by a violent wind. The 
 rain fell in .-urli torrents that it was dilFicull 
 to breatlie lacing the wind, the thunder rolled 
 
 incessantly, and the whole sky was tremu- 
 l.ms with lii,'litniiig ; now and lln'ii illumin- 
 ated by a b'inding tlash, succeeded by pitchy 
 darkness. Car.'on had the watch trom fen 
 to miilnight, and to linii linil brcii a-siu'iied 
 our voimg comjiiti^ lions ilr viii/iii;i\ Messrs. 
 Uraii't and 11. lieiiton. This was their first 
 night on guard, and such an introduction diil 
 not augur very auspiciously ol the pleasure!) 
 of the e.xpediiion. Miiny things conspired to 
 render their situation iincointortable ; stories 
 of desperate and blondy Indiiin fights werp 
 rife in the camp; our position was badly 
 chosen, surrounded on all sides by timbered 
 hollows, and occupving an area of several 
 hundred feet, so that necessarily the guards 
 were far apart ; and now and then I ccnild 
 hear Ilandol|ili, as if relieved by the sound 
 of a voice in the darkness, calling out to the 
 serueant of the guard, to direct his attention 
 to some imaginary alarm; but tl.ey stood it 
 I'lit, and took their turn regularly after- 
 ward. 
 
 The ne.xt morning we had a specimen of 
 the false alarms to which all parties in these 
 wild regions are subject, I'roceedinir up 
 the valley, objects were seen on the oppo- 
 site hills, which disap|)eared brfore a glass 
 could be brought to bear upon them. A 
 man, who was a short distance in the rear, 
 came spurring up in great ha.ste, shouting 
 Inilians ! Indians! lie had been near 
 enough to see and count them, according to 
 his report, and had made out twenty-seven. 
 I immediately halted; arms were examined 
 and put in order; the usual preparations 
 ma<le ; and Kit Carson, springing upon one 
 ^f the hunting horses, crossed the river, and 
 gallojied otV into the opposite prairies, to ob- 
 tain some certain intelligence of their move- 
 ments. 
 
 .Mounted on a fine hor.»e, without a saddle, 
 and scr)uring bareheaded over the prairies, 
 Kit was one of the finest pictures of a horse- 
 man I have ever seen. A short time ena- 
 bled him to discover that the Indian war 
 party of twenty-seven, consisted of si.x elk, 
 who had been gazing curiously at our cara- 
 van as it passed by, and were now scamper- 
 ing off at full speed. This was our first 
 alarm, and its excitement broke agreeably 
 on the monotony of the day. At our noon 
 halt, the men were exercised at a target; 
 and in the evening we pitched our tents at a 
 Pawnee enc:im|)inent of last .Inly. They 
 had apparently killed bufHilo here, as many 
 bones were lying about, and the frames 
 where the liiiles had been stretched were yet 
 slaiiding. The road of the day had kept 
 the valley, which is sometimes rich and well 
 timbr-rcd, though the country is generally 
 sandy. Mingled with the usual plants, a 
 thistle (carJuus li:uc6L;rnphiis) had for the 
 l.i.-t day or two made it.i appearance ajia 
 
10 
 
 CAPT. FI11:M()NTS NAUUA'I'IVK, 
 
 [1841 
 
 ■long tlio river l)')ttnm, Inulrxrnnfia (i irifiVii- ' 
 frt) imil milk |)lii\t (iisdejiias fijriaca*) in 
 Ci>nsi(li'r;ili!(' (|imtititi('s. ' 
 
 Our iiiiircli to-day had lipon twonty-one ' 
 mili'H, iiimI till' iiMtriiiuuiiical (iliscrviitioiis I 
 pave lis H clirotKiiMi'trio l<iiif,'itiidt' of !tS° 'Jil' 
 I'J ', mid lutitiidc MP -Jd' 50". We \wrc 
 moviiii; liirwurd iit ci'voii iiitlic inori iiif, iiiid 
 ill alioiit tivi" iiidt's roiiclii'd a tnrk dI 'Iio 
 IJiui', when' IIk- road Icuvi-s that river, and 
 cmnHOsdvcr to the I'lallo. No water was to 
 be found ontiie diviiiin;^ ridne, and tliocaskn 
 were lilled, and tlie animals here allowed a 
 short repose. The road led acrohs a liit;li 
 and level prairie ridp', where were Imt lew 
 ])hints, and those principally Ihi.-tle (riiriliiiis 
 leur6;j;rajihii!i), and a kind ol dwail artemi- 
 Bia. Aiili'iope were seen rreciiienlly diiriii;^ 
 the inorniiifj, which was very stormy. 
 S(|ualls ot rain, with thunder and liH;iitnin;j;, 
 were around lis in every direction ; and 
 while wo were enveloped in one ot them, a 
 flash, which seemed to scorch our eyes as it 
 passed, struck in the prairie within a lew 
 Ininilri-d feet, seiidinir np a column of dust. 
 
 Crossing on the way several I'awnec 
 roads to the Arkansas, v.'e reached, in about 
 twenty-one miles I'roin our halt on the Hlue, 
 what is called the coast of the Neliraska, or 
 Platte river. This had seemed in the dis- 
 tance a ranire of hirrh and hrcdien hills ; hut 
 on a nearer approach were found to he ele- 
 vations (if forty to si.vty feet, into which the 
 wind had worked the sand. They were co- 
 vered with the usual tine jfrasses of the 
 country, and hordered the eastern side of 
 the ridge on a breadth of ahoiit two inile.s. 
 Chanije of soil and country appeared liei^ 
 to have produced some chany;c in the vesje- 
 tatiun. Vacli were numerous, and all the 
 plants of the refrion appeared to flourish 
 amonir the warm hills. Amoiiir them the 
 amorjiliii, in lull hloom, was remarkable for 
 its lariro and lu.xuriant purple clusters. 
 From the foot of the coast, a distance of two 
 miles across the level bottom brought us to 
 our encam|)ment on the shore of the river, 
 about twenty miles below the head of Grand 
 Island, which lay extended before us, cover- 
 ed with dense and heavy woods. From the 
 mouth of the Kansas, accordiiifT to our reck- 
 oning, we had travelled three hundred and 
 twenty-eight miles ; and the geological form- 
 ation of the country we had passed over 
 
 * "Thill plant in very oilorircroiis, nnil In Camilla 
 ehnrina Ihi! Iriivi'lliir, I'spi'iially wliin passini; llirmmh 
 WiTiids in thp rvi'iiing. Thi." Fii'iirli llwru (•al lliu tcnilcr 
 •hoiita in llii> sprini!, ns wd ilo asparau'iis. Tlu^ nativrs 
 make a diisar nl' llie Hiuvitb. galhiTini; tluMii in lliu 
 Diiirninu wlii^n llii'V arc covi'iril wiiii di'W, anil tulli'ct 
 tlie ciillim I'nmi lliiir polls In till lli'ir beds. ( iii arnmiil 
 of the niiklnoM iil lliin rntiini. I'arkinsnn calls lliu plant 
 Viniinian t<ilk."— J.nnilon'.^ KnnjrhiKrdia of Plants. 
 
 'I'he SliMU Inihins nf lliu IJpprr I'l.iltu cat tin; yiiiini; 
 pods of .Ins plant, boiling thi'iii with the uiwit of tlie 
 bufl'alo. 
 
 cnimistpd of lime and sandstmie, covered liy 
 the i>iiine erratic deposite ol sand and gravil 
 which forms the snriitre rock of the prairies 
 hetween the Mis.soiiri and .Mississippi riverc, 
 l';.\ce|)t in some occasional liiiieslone hoiilil- 
 ers, I had met with no lossils. 'I'he ph-vii- 
 lion of the I'latti' valley nlinM' the sea i' 
 here about two tiiousiiiid trel. The astro, 
 liomical ob,«ervations of the iii:'lil placed n- 
 in longitude iW VS W\ latitude -lOo IT 
 
 or,'. 
 
 ./i/;ip '.'7. — The animals were sr.incwhat 
 fatigued by their march of yesterday, am 
 after a slinrt journey of eigliieni miles aloiiji 
 the ri\or liotloiii, I encamped iie;ir the hcai' 
 of (iraiid island, in longitude, bv observa- 
 tion, fl!!" O.'/ 21'. liitiiiide lO"' 3i)' 3-i" 
 The soil here was light but rich, though ii 
 some places rather sandy ; and, with the ex 
 ce])tion of a scattered fringe along the bank, 
 the timber, consisting principally of |mplar 
 {)>njmlu>i miiiilijcnt), elm, and hackberry 
 (crliis mis: ifiilla), is contined almost entirely 
 to the islands. 
 
 Jiitw 2y. — We halted to noon at an open 
 reach of the river, which occupies ratliet 
 more than a fourth of the valley, here only 
 iibotit four miles liroiid. The camp had Inrii 
 disposed with the usual precaution, tb' 
 horses grazing at a little distance, attendii; 
 ■ by the guard, and we were all silting ()iiiet!y 
 at our dinner on the grass, when siiddrii!y 
 1 we heard the startling cry •' du momlc !" In 
 an instant, every mans weapon was in liif 
 hand, the liorsos were driven in, hobbled ami 
 ' picketed, and horsemen were gallojiing at 
 lull speed in the direction of the new comers, 
 screaming and yelling with the wildest ex- 
 citement. " Get ready, my lads ! " said tin 
 leader of the approaching party to his men 
 when our wild-looking horsemen were dis 
 covered bearing down upon them ; ' vmi: 
 allims (illrdpcr des anijis ile. Ixiiruetli:." Tliry 
 proved to be a small parly of fourteen, tin.ii r 
 the charge of a man named John Lee, nml. 
 with their baggage and provisions strap; cii 
 to their hacks, were m.-iking their way imi 
 foot to the froiilier. A brief account of their 
 lortunes will give some idea of navijntion ii; 
 the Nebraska. Sixty days since, tliey hai! 
 left the mouth of Laramie's fork, some threi' 
 hundred miles above, in barges laden with 
 the furs of the American Fur Company. 
 They started with the annual flood, and, 
 drawing but nine inches water, hoped in 
 tnake a speedy and prosperous voyage to ^'; 
 Louis ; but, after a lapse of forty days, foimii 
 themselves only one hundred and liiiriy 
 miles from their point of departure. 'I'lioy 
 came down rapidly as far as Scott's bhii!!-. 
 where their difficulties began. Sometinio7 
 they came upon places where the water wn- 
 spread over a great extent, and here they 
 toiled from morning until night, endeuvorinjj 
 
 184!1 
 
 todri 
 
 only 
 
 Siiinc 
 
 river, 
 
 und, 
 
 or tei 
 
 !-»nd: 
 
 tlieir 
 
 and I 
 
 llie \ 
 
 lloat 
 
 loth 
 
 iiver 
 
 Icngl 
 
 ilay I 
 
 i'ipal 
 
 tliirt; 
 
 wcu 
 
 it'W 
 
 .inu( 
 itirs 
 .een 
 •and 
 Ired 
 iiadi 
 
 )n ii 
 'om 
 then 
 W 
 ibni 
 or t' 
 iion 
 
 itOC 
 
 ivas 
 
 jIlOl 
 
 iupi 
 us t 
 (ver 
 van 
 piec 
 iron 
 new 
 eln[ 
 hou 
 the; 
 lian 
 foui 
 pra: 
 of : 
 liac 
 Na] 
 the 
 nar 
 
 ffoi 
 ny 
 wai 
 1 t 
 tra' 
 i 
 figi 
 oui 
 pre 
 
IIATIVK. 
 
 [I84i 
 
 I iif Mini' mill sntiilstono, covprod liv 
 • crriitic (li'|"Hit(> (il Mand iiiiil (iravil 
 Tiii-i itic siiriiirp ruck of llit> prnirir^ 
 I llic .Mi.x.-oiiri mill Mi.i.:i-.si|)|)j nvcrr. 
 ill ."(Mill' occiisiiiiml liiiii>iiiiM' l)i>ii!i|- 
 
 III lili't with no ln^^il.^. 'I'ilf ('l"V,l- 
 till- I'iiitti' viillcy iilimc lli(> Ht'ii i' 
 lilt two tiloll.ilMll ti'i'l. Tlio iistrn. 
 
 olist'rviitiniis of till' iii:'lit iilncfil i,- 
 itiidn 98° .15' .»!»■•, liilitiiilo 40o IT 
 
 •J7. — 'I'lip nniiiiiils wcTiy soincwli::! 
 
 Iiv tlii'ir iiiiirdi ol' yr-tcnliiy, mi'l, 
 fliiirt joiiriipy of i'ij,'liii'i'ii mili'.s iilmii' 
 r liotiiiiii, I ("iicmii|ii'il near the iicai! 
 Ill islaiiil, In l(iin,'itiiilr, liy olisorva- 
 
 ' V')' 21'. lafitiiili' l()"' 3!f 32" 
 
 liorc was liu'lit liiit rii'li, tlioiijjji in 
 laros rather (■aiicly ; ami, w illi tlie o\- 
 ol' a scattered tViiii;e aluliu' the liaiik. 
 lier, c'linsistiiii; |iriiK'i|ially of |)o|)lar 
 ts inoiiililmt), elm, and liacklierry 
 nis: ifiilid), \ti coTitiiiod 1^1 most ciitireiy 
 slniids. 
 
 '2S. — We lialtrd to noon at an npeii 
 of till' river, wliicli occnpios ratliei 
 lan a fourth of the valley, here oiilj 
 oiirniiles liroad. 'I'lic camp had l» in 
 d witli the iiciial precatilion, tl.i 
 j;razin<r at a little di.-^lancp, atteiidcii 
 ifiiard, and we were all siltinjj ipiietlv 
 dinner on the grass, when suddenly 
 ltd thestartlinijcry '' du mundi: .'" In 
 ant, every man's weapon was in hi? 
 ho horses svoro driven in, iiobbled ami 
 hI, and horsemen were gallopiiiir a; 
 >ed in the direction of the new comers, 
 liiiir and yelling with the wildest ex- 
 lit. "Get really, my lads! " said thi 
 of the approacliinij party to his men 
 :)iir wild-lool-iiiif,' horsemen were dis 
 d bearinij down upon tliein ; ' vmi: 
 iitlrtijii-r (IfS coiijis lie hiiiriielti;." 'I'liev 
 to he a small party of fourteen, iiiwii r 
 irgc of a man named John I^ce, am 
 leir Imcfgaije and provisions .strap; cu 
 ir hacks, were m.ikiiiir their way ii 
 the frontier. A brief account of tlicir 
 ^s will give some idea of navication ii 
 diraska. Si.xty days since, they liii'' 
 ? mouth of Laramie's fork, some Ibn 
 'd miles above, in barfires laden with 
 TS of the American Fur Companv. 
 .started with the annual flood, ami 
 ig but nino inches water, hoped in 
 1 Fpecdy and prosperous voyage to !:•'; 
 ; but, after a lapse of forty days, foumi 
 dves only one hundred and tiiiriy 
 from their point of departure. They 
 down rajiidly as far as Scott's bliiiK-, 
 their difTiciiltie.s bepan. Sometiiiii- 
 ime upon places where the water wa,- 
 over a preat extent, and liere they 
 from morniiin; until iiiglii, endeuvoriu{; 
 
 1843.] 
 
 CAPT. FUK.MONTS NARR.VTIVK. 
 
 11 
 
 to drng tlicir boat tlirongli the ^amU, making 
 only two or three miles in as many days. 
 SoinetiincM they would enter an arm ol the 
 river, where there apprareil ii line channel, 
 mid, after desceiWiiiir prosperoiiHly fur eight 
 or ten miles, would come suddenly upon dry 
 •amis, and be cuinpelleii to return, dragging 
 ttieir iKiat for days against the rapid ciirriiit ; 
 and at others, they came upon places where 
 the water lay in boles, and, getting out to 
 lliiat olV their biiat, would fall into water up 
 to their necks, and the ne.xt inoiiient tumble 
 iiver against a sandbai Discouraged, at 
 li'iigtli, and liiiding the I'latte growing every 
 iliiy more Mhallow, they discharged the prin- 
 cipal part ol tiieir cargoes one hundred and 
 lliirty miles below Fort Laramie, which they 
 secured as well as possible, and, leaving u 
 finv men to guard tbeiii, attetn|)ted to coii- 
 imie their voyage, laden with some light 
 !iirs and their personal baggage. Alter iit- 
 .cen or twenty days iiinre struggling in the 
 ianils, during which they made but one hiin- 
 Ired and forty miles, they sunk their barges, 
 iiade a aichc of their remaining furs and 
 proiwrty, in trees on the bank, and, packing 
 yn ills back what each man could carry, hail 
 •uminenced, the day before we encountered 
 them, their journey on foot to ."^t. l.ouis. 
 
 Wo langlied then at their forlorn and vag- 
 ibond appearance, and, in our turn, a month 
 or two alterwards, furnisiied the .«amo occa- 
 iion for merriment to others. Even their 
 •tock of tobacco, that sine qud nnn of a wtj- 
 i'^eur, without which the night tire i.s gloomy, 
 .vas entirely e.xhaiisted. However, we 
 ihortenod their homeward journey by a small 
 supply from our own provision. They gave 
 us the welcome intelligence that the bulf'alo 
 were abundant some two days' march in ad- 
 vance, and made us a present of some choice 
 pieces, which were a very acceptable change 
 from our salt pork. In the interchange of 
 news, and the renewal of old actjuaintancc- 
 sliips, we found wherewithal to til! a busy 
 hour ; then we mounted our horses, and 
 they shouldered their packs, and wo shook 
 hands and parted. Among them, I had 
 found an old companion on the northern 
 prairie, a hardened and hardly served veteran 
 of the mountains, who liad been as much 
 hacked and scarred as an old moustache of 
 Napoleon's "old guard." lie flourished in 
 the sobriquet of La Tulipe, and his real 
 name I never knew. Finding that he was 
 going to the States only because his compa- 
 ny was bound in that direction, and that he 
 was rather more willing to return with me, 
 1 took him again into my service. We 
 (ravelled this day but seventeen miles. 
 
 At our evening camp, about sunset, three 
 figures were discovered approaching, which 
 our glasses made out to be Indians. They 
 proved to bo Clicyennea — tvnj men, and a 
 
 Ixiy of thirteen. .Mimit a inoiilli Kinco, llipy 
 had lett their people nii the south lurk of tliP 
 river, .some three huinlred miles to the west- 
 ward, mid a party of only lour in number 
 had been to the Pawnee villages on a borsi'- 
 sti'aling excursion, troin which they were 
 retiiriiiiig unsuccessful. They were miser- 
 ably niiiiiiited on wild liorM's Iroiii the ,\rk« 
 ansas plains, and had tin other weapons than 
 bows mid long s|)ears; mid had they be'Ml 
 discovered by the I'awnees, cmild not, by 
 any possibility, have escaped. They were 
 uinrtilied by their ill success, and said the 
 Pawnees were cowards, who shut up their 
 horses in their lodt;es at night. I invited 
 them to sii|iper with me, and liiiiidol|ili and 
 the yiiiiiig Cheyenne, who had been eyeing 
 each other snspiciiuisly and curiously,' soon 
 becaiiie intimate trienils. .Mter supjier, wo 
 sat down on the grass, and I placed a sheet 
 of paper between us, on which they traced 
 rudely, but willi a certain degree of relative 
 truth, the watercourses of the country which 
 lay between us and their villages, mid of 
 which I desired to have some in'i riiiation. 
 Their companions, tliey told us, li taken a 
 nearer route over ti.e hills; but li.ey liad 
 mounted one ot the summits to sjiy out tlic 
 country, whence they had caught a glimp.so 
 of our party, and, coiitident of good treat- 
 ment at the bauds of thi; whites, hastened to 
 join coinj)aiiy. iiatitiulo of the camp 40" 
 39' .'jl". 
 
 We made the next morning si.xteen niiles. 
 I remarked that the tiroiind was covered in 
 many [ilaces with an ellloresceiice of salt, 
 and the |ilant.s were not numerous. In the 
 bottoms were rrci|ueii*ly seen Iniilescanlia, 
 anil on the dry Icnches were curdiiiis, ciclus, 
 and (HHDrpha. A high wind during the 
 morning had increased to a violent gale from 
 the north west, which made our atternoon 
 ride cold and unpleasant. Wo had the wel- 
 come sight of two biitliiloes on one of the 
 largo islands, and encmiipod at a clump of 
 timber about seven miles from our noon halt, 
 after a day'.s march of twenty-two miles. 
 
 The air was keen the next morning at 
 sunrise, the therniometer standing at 44°, 
 and it was sulliciently cold to make over- 
 coats very comfortable. A few miles brought 
 us into the midst of the biitliilo, swarming 
 in immense numbers over the plains, where 
 they bad left scarcely a blade of grass stand- 
 ing. Mr. Preuss, who was sketching at a 
 little distance in t' ear, had at lirst noted 
 them as large gro\es of timber. In the 
 sight of such a mass of life, the traveller 
 feels a strange emotion of grandeur. We 
 had heard from a distance a dull and con- 
 fused miirmiirirg, and, when we came in 
 view of their dark masses, there was not one 
 among us who did not feel his heart beat 
 quicker. It was tlie early part of tiie day, 
 
Ifl 
 
 CAl'T. FIli:.M()NT\S NAUUATIVK, 
 
 [181J 
 
 whrii tliP liorilH ore fi'ivl.D^r ; nml ovnry- 
 wlicri' tlii'v \\>'Tr ill moliiiii. I lore timl iIhtc 
 a liii;;!. iild liiill wan ri'llii)(| in \Ue ^^rans, niul 
 rldiiili ol (lii.-t ruse in tlic iiir from vnrioiiM 
 (iiirt" 1)1 till" liiiiiiN. ciu'li till* Hccnn of foiiic 
 Diihliiiati' ti^rli'' liiiliaiiN and liiitlitlo tnakc 
 the pootry and lilc ol tli(< prairie, iiiid cjur 
 niiiip was lull o! their ('.vliiiaratioii. In piarc 
 of the (|uii'i iiKMiDtdiiy of the niarcli, relieved 
 only l)y the cracking' of the whip, and an 
 
 "aniiiri' ilimr ! inl'iinl lA- lidin 
 
 HllOlltN 
 
 mill honrrs resoiiniled Iriiiii every jiiirt of the 
 line, and our evening; ciiinp was alwayn the 
 coininencemeiit of a fea>t, whicii teriniiiated 
 •»ily with our ileparliite on the Inljowiiif,' 
 moriiin;.'. At any time of the ni(;ht inijjht 
 bo ween pieees o! the most delirate and 
 ciiiiii'est meat, roast injr in ajipola^i, on sticks 
 around the lire, and the ^.'iiard were never 
 without ('om|)any. Willi pleasant weather 
 and no eni'iiiy to fear, I'li ahiiniianee of the 
 most excellent meat, ami no scarcity of 
 bread or tobacco, they were enjoyin;^ 'be 
 oasis of a voyai/eiir's life, 'i'liree cows were 
 killed to-day. Kit Car-on had shot one, and 
 was coiiliniiiiij.r the chase in the midst of 
 imolher herd, w hen his horse fell lieiidlon;.', 
 but spranj; ii|) and joined the llyin;; band. 
 'riiHMi^h coiisiilerahly hurt, be bad the l'ooiI 
 fortune to break no lones; and .Maxwell, 
 who was mounted on a lleet hunter, cap- 
 tured the runaway alter a bard chase, lie 
 Was on the point of slio(itiii!f him, to avoid 
 the loss of bis bridle, (a banilsomely mount- 
 ed Spanish one), when he found that bis 
 burse was able to come up with him. Ani- 
 mals are freipiently lost in tbi.« way ; and it 
 i.s necessary to keep close watch over them, 
 in the vicinity of the Imlliilo, in the midst of 
 which they scour oil' to the ])laiiis, and are 
 rarely relaken. (ino of our mules took a 
 sudden freak into bis bead, and joined a 
 neij;bborin;j band to-day. As we were not 
 in a condition to lose horses, 1 sent several 
 men in imrsuil, ami remained in camp, in 
 the hope of recoveriii;,' him ; but lost the 
 afternoon to no jiurpi'.-e, ;is wi> did not sec 
 liiin ai,aiin. Astninoinical observations 
 placed us in lon<ritiide lUOo 05' -17", latitude 
 40° 49' 55". 
 
 July 1. — .\lonf:f our road to-day the prairie 
 bottom was more elevated and dry, and the 
 bills which border the rii:ht side of the river 
 higher, and more bruken and jiictiiresqiie in 
 th.e outline. The country, too, was better 
 limhered. As we were riilinir quietly alonij 
 the bank, a ;rraiid herd of bnllUlo, some seven 
 or ei^'ht hundred in number, came crowding 
 up from the river, where they bad been tu 
 drink, and commenced crossing the plain 
 flowly, eating as th'\v went. The wind was 
 favoral)le ; the coolness of Ibo morning in- 
 vited to exeriiise ; the ground was apparently 
 gowl, and llie dittance uijross the prairie (two 
 
 or tiiroo inilp«) gave im a (mn opportunity to 
 ( harce them iH'lore they could i;el amoli|{tlif 
 river hill •. It was Ino line a prospect lor a 
 cbast) to Im« lost ; and, haltiiiif lor ii few nm. 
 meiiti', the hunters were bri>u;,'ht iin riiid wtii- 
 tiled, and Kit ( 'arson. Maxwell, and l,iita't(i) 
 toy;elber. 'i'liiy were now iiomewbat lem 
 than half a mile ili.-tiint, anil we rode eaHJly 
 along nnlil within iibout three hundred yanl.s 
 when a hiidden n;,'ltalinn, a wavering ill the 
 hand, and a ^allnpinir to and Iro of Bonw 
 which were scattered along the skirtH, gavi' 
 IIS the intimation that we were discovereil 
 We started together at a band gallo|), ridiiij; 
 steadily abreast of each other, and liert> tlir 
 interest of the chase became so enifroHsingly 
 intense, that wo were sensible to nothing else, 
 We were now dosing u|ion them rapidly, aiul 
 the front of the mas.s was already in rapid 
 motion for the hills, and in a few seconds the 
 movement had cunimiinicated itself to the 
 whole herd. 
 
 A crowd of bulls, as usual, brought up tiii> 
 rear, and every mow and then somi' of them 
 faced about, and then ila-hid on after the 
 hand a short distaiue, anil lurnid and lookcil 
 again, as if ir.ore than half inclined to Htanil 
 and light. In a lew moments, bowevrr, du- 
 ring which we li^il been i|iiickeningour i)ace. 
 the rout was universal, and we were goiiif,' 
 over the ground like a hiirricaiio. When at 
 about thirty yards we gave the usual shout 
 (the hunter's yns dr rluinif), tt"d broke into 
 the herd. We entered on the side, the mass 
 giving way in every direction in their heed- 
 less course. Many of the bulls, less active 
 and les.s lleet than the cows, paying no at- 
 tention to the ground, and occupied solely 
 with the buntcr,were precipitated to the CHrth 
 with great force, rolling over and over with 
 the violence of the shock, and hardly dis- 
 tinguishable in the du>l. Wo separated on 
 entering, each singling out his game. 
 
 My horse was a trained hunter, famous in 
 the west under the name of I'rovcau, ar.il, 
 witii bis eyes llashing, and the foam ilyin;; 
 from his moiilb, sprang on after the cow like 
 a tiger. In a lew moments be brought me 
 alongside of her, and rising in the stirrups, I 
 fired at the distance of a yard,tlie ball enter- 
 ing at the termination of the long hair, anil 
 passing near the heart. iSbe fell headlong 
 at the rejiort of the gun, and, checking my 
 horse, I looked around for my companions. 
 At a little distance. Kit was on tlie ground, 
 engaged in tying his iiorsc to the horns of 
 a cow wiiii'b be was preparing to cut r,p. 
 Among the scattered bands, at some distance 
 below, I caught a glimjiso of Maxwell ; and 
 while I was looking, a light wreath of white 
 smoke curled away from bis gun, from which 
 I was too far to bear the report. Nearer, 
 and between me and the hills, towards which 
 they were directing their cour=e, waa Ui» 
 
InvE 
 
 [1813 
 
 I'h) 1,'avf UN a (iiip opportiinilv M 
 lit'lorc tlicy coiilil jji't iiiiii)ii(;lli^ 
 It was iiiii line II |ir(iH|)i'('t lor a 
 
 lii-i ; mill, liiillinj,' lur ii fi'w im 
 
 JiilitiTs were liroii^'lil. iiii r.iid huiI- 
 
 (l <'iir.-(iii, Miixwcll.iinil l.nla-lcd 
 
 'licy wiTi- iimv FdiiK'wImt Irsi 
 |iiiili' ill>Miiil, Mini \M> riiilc faNilv 
 
 illilii iiiiiiiit tlirn- liMiiilrt'iJ ynnl.", 
 
 Icii iii;itnliiiii. 11 wiivcrjii;,' ill llic 
 |i ^'iilli>|iliiir III mill IVd (if eiinie 
 
 HCIltllTCll lilnll^r llio i^kirtH, J,'IlVi' 
 
 hiiilinii tliiil wf were (li«ciivorril 
 Itnm'tlicr at ii IiiiikI ^'all(i[), ridiii;; 
 |i'a>t (il ciicli iitli(-r, iiikI Ihtc ilir 
 111' clia.-^c in'caini' mi t'mrroH.siii);!; 
 
 uc were M'lisihli' In iiiilliin;^j>lM'. 
 iw (■|ii.''iiij,' ii|inn tlii'iii ra|iiilly, aiiil 
 
 llic muss was already in rnpid 
 III' hills, and in ii I'l'w ht'coiids tlic 
 liad cuniniiinicati'd itself to tlir 
 
 (if bulls, as iisiinl, brninrht up the 
 cry 'inw and tln'n soiir* (if tliem 
 t, mid llicn (laslird on aftor tlir 
 tdistiuni', iiiiil tiniii'il and lookcil 
 n.nri' lli:in lialf inclined to 8taiiil 
 111 a lew inoiiii'iils, liowevcr, da- 
 we lud lieen i|iiickenin;;our pKCC. 
 IS niiivi-r.-al, and we were Roinf; 
 oiiiiil like a liiirriLuno. When al 
 ' yards, we ;;ave the iiHiial shout 
 's /K/s (/(' rliiirf^''), and broke into 
 We entered on the side, the mass 
 ' in every dircclion in their lieoil- 
 . Aliiiiy of the bulls, less active 
 :'ct tlian the cows, payinff no at- 
 the ffround, and occupied solely 
 liter, were precipitated lo the earth 
 force, rollini,' over and over witli 
 e of the slunk, and hardly dis- 
 e in the dii.-t. Wc separated on 
 icli Hinirlinj,' out hisparne. 
 3 was a trained hnnter, famous in 
 inder the name of Provean, ar:il, 
 >es llashinir, and the foam llyint; 
 :)ulli, spran^r on after the cow like 
 1 a lew inoineiits he brought mo 
 f her, and risiiijj in the stirrups, I 
 distance of a yard, the ball enter- 
 crmiiiatioii of the lonnr hair, and 
 ir the heart, She fell hcaiilong 
 rt of the fTiin, and, checking my 
 iked around lor my companions, 
 distance, Kit was on the groimd, 
 tying his iiorsc to the liorns of 
 ■Il he was preparing to cut up. 
 scattered bands, at some distance 
 light a glimpse of Ma.vwell ; and 
 1 looking, a light wreath of white 
 'd away from his gun, from whicli 
 far to hear the report. Nearer, 
 n mo and the hills, towards which 
 directing: their course, waa ili» 
 
 1843.] 
 
 CAPT. FUHMONTS \AIIII.\ TlVr.. 
 
 IS 
 
 \toAy of tli0 herd, nnd, Kivin)( my liomn tlin 
 n>iii, we diirfhed alter them. A thick cloud 
 of dust hung upon their rear, which lilled 
 my mouth and eyes, and nearly Hiuothered 
 inc. Ill the niidHt of tlii.t I coiilil Nce nolliing, 
 mil .he liiilFilo were not distingiiishalile until 
 ivithin thirty feet. They crowded together 
 more densely Ntill as 1 came upon them, and 
 rushed along in Hiiclia compact liiHly, that I 
 •mild not olitain an entranie — the horse al- 
 ino«t leaping upon tlieiii. In a lew niomentH 
 liio masn ilivided to the right and left, the 
 hiiriiH clattering wiili a noise heard above 
 everything else, and my horse darted into 
 the ojiening. l''ive or si.t bulls charged on 
 un as wo (l.ished along the line, but were left 
 fir k'hind ; and, Hingling out a cow, I gave 
 her my (ire, but Htriick too high. She gave 
 1 tremenilouM leap, and scoured on swifter 
 than before. I reined up my horse, and the 
 band swept on like a torrent, and left the 
 place quiet a id clear. Our chase had led ii.s 
 iiilo dangerous ground. A jirairie dog-vil- 
 ige, so tiiickly settled that there were three 
 or four holes in every twenty yards siiuare, 
 occupied the whole bottom for nearly two 
 miles in length. Looking around, I saw only 
 one of the hunters, nearly out of sight, and 
 the long dark line of our caravan crawling 
 along, three or four miles distant. Alter a 
 march of twenty-lour miles, we encamped at 
 nightfall, one mile and a half above the lower 
 end of Brady's island. The breadth of this 
 arm of the river was eight hundred and 
 eighty yards, and the water nowhere two 
 feet in (lepth. The island bears the name of 
 a man killed on this spot some years ago. 
 His party had encamped here, three in com- 
 lany. and one of the number went oil" to hunt, 
 eavi':g Brady and his companion together. 
 These two had fretpiently (jiiarrelled, and on 
 the hunter's return he found Brady dead, and 
 waa told that he had shot himself accident- 
 ally, lie was buried here on the bank ; but, 
 as UEual, the wolves had torn him out, and 
 some human bones that were lying on the 
 ground we aupiwsed were his. Troops of 
 wolves, that were hanging on the skirts of 
 the buffalo, kept up an uninterrupted howling 
 during the night, venturing almost into camp. 
 In the morning, they were sitting at a short 
 distance, barking, and impatiently wailing 
 our departure, to fall upon the bones. 
 
 Ju/y 2. — Thomoriiipgwa- ,;ool and smoky. 
 Our road led closer to the hills, which hero 
 increased in elevation, presenting an outline 
 of conical peaks three hundred to tivo hun- 
 dred feet high. Some timber, apparently 
 pine, grows in the ravines, and streaks 
 of clay or sand whiten their slopes. We 
 crossed during the morning a number of hol- 
 lows, timbered principally with bo.v elder 
 {aeer negnndo), poplar and elm. Brady's 
 iaand is well wooded, and all the river along 
 
 which our road led to-day may. in genortl, 
 lie called tidcriilily well (iiiiU'red. \V(> paxiu 
 I'd near an ('liiaiu|iiiieiit ot the Oregon em*, 
 grants, where they appeared to have reponed 
 several dayn. A variety ot lioiisehold arti« 
 cles were scattered alioiit, iiml they had pro- 
 liilily disburdened llieiii>elveH here of many 
 things not absolutely necesniry. I had lelt 
 the usual road U'lore the mid-day halt, iiiul 
 in the afternoon, having i*ent several men in 
 advance to reconnoitre, mirclied diieitly tor 
 the mouth of the South Inrk. On our arrU 
 val, the horsemen were sent in and scattered 
 about the river to search the best fording 
 places, and the carts followed iiiiiiiediately. 
 riiu stream is here ilivided by an island into 
 two channels, 'i'lie sout hern is lour hundred 
 and lilty fin't wide, having eighteen or twenty 
 inches water in the deepest places. With 
 the exception of a few drv iiars, the bed of 
 the river is generally ipiiiksaiids, in which 
 the carts began to sink rapidly so soon an 
 llie mules halted, so that it was necessary to 
 keep them constantly in motion. 
 
 The northern channel, two llioiisnnd two 
 hundred and lilty fei't wide, was somewhat 
 deeper, having freipiently three feet water in 
 the numerous Ninall channels, with a bed of 
 coarsi! gravel. The whole breadth of tho 
 .Vebraska, immedialely below the pinction, ia 
 live thousand three hundred and lifty feet. 
 .Ml our eiiuipago had reached the left bank 
 safely at (i o'clock, having to-day made twenty 
 miles. Wo encaiiiped at tho point of land 
 immediately at the junction of the North and 
 South forks. Between the streams is a low 
 rich prairie, extending from their contlu>?nce 
 eighteen miles westwardly to the bordering 
 hills, when; it is live and a half miles wide. 
 It is covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, 
 and along tho banks is a slight and scaltercd 
 fringe of Cottonwood and vvillow. In tho 
 biitliilo trails and wallows, I remarked jalino 
 elllorescences, to which a rapid evaporation 
 in the great heat of the sun probably contri- 
 butes, as the soil is entirely unprotected by 
 timber. In the vicinity of these places there 
 was a bluish grass, which the cattle refuse 
 to eat, called by the voyagours" herhe saUn" 
 (salt grass). The latitude of the junction ia 
 41" Ot" 47", and longitude, by chronometer 
 and lunar distances, 100° 49' 43". The ele- 
 vation above the sea is about two thousand 
 seven hundred feet. The hunters came in 
 with a fat cow ; and, as we had lalwred hard, 
 we enjoyed well a supper of roa.«ted ribs and 
 boudins, the chef-d'auvre of a prairie cook. 
 Mosquitoes thronged about us this evening ; 
 but, by 10 o'clock, when the thermometer had 
 fallen to 47°, they had all disappeared. 
 
 July 3. — As this was to bo a point in our 
 homeward journey, I made a cache (a term 
 used in all this country for what is hidden ia 
 the ground) of a barrel of jiork. It was imp 
 
14 
 
 CAPT. FRE.MONT'S NARRATIVE. 
 
 [1842. 
 
 possible to conceal such a prococtlinjj fnmi 
 the shar|) eyes of our Clieyoiitio coni|)atiioii!i, 
 and I tlierploro told them to co and sec wiiat 
 it was tliey were burying. Tiiey would oth- 
 erwise have not failed to return and destroy 
 our cache in expectation of some rich booty, 
 but pork tliey dislike, and never cat. We 
 left oui camp at 9, continuinir up the Soutli 
 fork, the pr.iirio bottom alVording us a fair 
 road ; but in tlic long grass we roused myri- 
 ads of mos(iuitoes and flies, from which our 
 liorses sulIL'rod severely. Tiio day was 
 smoky, with a [)leasarit breeze from the south, 
 and the plains on the opposite side were co- 
 vered with bnlliilo. Having travelled twenty- 
 five miles, we encamped at G in the evening ; 
 and the men were sent across the river lor 
 wood, as there is none hero on the left bank. 
 Our tires were partially ma<le of the liois da 
 vache, the drj"- excrement of the bullalo, 
 which, like that ol the camel in the Arabian 
 deserts, furnishes to the traveller a very good 
 substitute for wood, burning like turf. 
 Wolves in great numbers surrounded us 
 during the night, crossing and rccrossing 
 from the opposite herds to our camp, aiui 
 howling and trotting about in the river until 
 morning. 
 
 July 4. — The morning was very smoky, 
 the sun shining dimly and red, a.s in a thick 
 fog. The camp was roused with a salute at 
 daybreak, and fro'i our scanty store a portion 
 of what our Indian friends called the " red 
 fire water" served out to the men. While 
 we were at breakfast, a bulFalo calf broke 
 through the camp, followed by a couple of 
 wolves. In its fright, it had probably mis- 
 taken U.S for a band of bufllilo. Tlie wolves 
 were obliged to make a circuit around the 
 camp, so that the calf got a little the start, 
 and strained every nerve to reach a large 
 herd at the foot of the hills, about two miles 
 distant ; but first one, and then another, and 
 another wolf joined in the chase, until his 
 pursuers amounted to twenty or thirty, and 
 tliey ran him down before he could reacli liis 
 friends. There were a few bulls near the 
 place, and one of them attacked the wolves, 
 and tried to rescue him ; but was driven ofV 
 immediately, and the little animal fell an 
 easy prey, half devoured before lie was dead. 
 We watched the chase with the interest al- 
 ways felt for tlie weak; and had there been 
 a saddled horse at hand, he would nave fared 
 better. Ijcaviug camp, our road soon ap- 
 proached the hills, in which strata of a marl 
 like iiiat of the Chimney rock, hereafter de- 
 scribed, make their appearance. It is proba- 
 bly of this rock that the hills on the right 
 bank of the I'latte, a little below the junction, 
 are ccrr.posed, aed which are worked by the 
 winds and rains into sharp peaks and cones, 
 giving them, in contrast to the surrounding 
 level region, something of a picturesque ap- 
 
 pearance. Wo crossed this morning nume- 
 rous beds of the small creeks which, in the 
 time of rains and melting snow, pour down 
 from the ridge, bringing down willi tliem al- 
 ways great iiuantitics of sand and gravel, 
 which have gradually raised their beds four 
 to ten leet above the level of the jirairie, 
 which they cross, making 'ach one of tl c;r. 
 a miniature Po. Raised in this way above 
 the surrouiiiliug prairie, without any bank, 
 the long yllow and winding line of tlicii 
 beds resemliles a causeway from the hills to 
 the river. Many spots on the prairie are 
 yellow with siintlo er (In'tianilnis). 
 
 As we were riding slowly along this after- 
 noon, clouds of dust in the ravines, amonj; 
 the hills to the righ!, suddenly attracted our 
 attention, and in a lew minutes column after 
 column of buffalo came galloping down, 
 making directly to the river. liy the time 
 the leading herds had reached the water, tlie 
 prairie was darkened with the dense masses. 
 Immediately before us, when the bands firi.1 
 came down into the valley stretched an mi- 
 broken line, the head of which was lost 
 among the river hills on the opposite side ; 
 and still they poured down from the ridge on 
 our right. i'Vom hill to hill, the prairie bot- 
 tom was certainly not less than two miles 
 wide; and, allowing the animals to be ten 
 feet apart, and only ten in a line, there were 
 already eleven thousand in view. Some 
 idea may thus be formed of their number 
 when they had occupied the whole plain. 
 In a short time they surrounded us on every 
 side; extending for several miles in the rear, 
 and forward as far as the eye could reach ; 
 leaving around us, as we advanced, an open 
 space of only two or three hundred yards. 
 This movement of the buffalo indicated to 
 us the presence of Indians on the north 
 fork. 
 
 I halted earlier than usual, about forty 
 miles from the junction, and all hands were 
 soon busily engaged in preparing a feast to 
 celebrate the day. The kindness of our 
 friends at St. Louis had provided ns with a 
 large supply of excellent preserves and rich 
 fruit cake ; and when these were added to a 
 maccaroni soup, am! variously prepared dish- 
 es of the cboice^i ouflalo meat, crowned 
 with a cup of coffee, and enjoyed with prai- 
 rie appetite, we felt, as we sat in barbaric 
 luxury around our smoking supfier on the 
 grass, a greater sensation of enjoyment than 
 the Roman epicure at his perfumed feast. 
 But most of all it seemed to please our In- 
 dian friends, who, in the unrestrained enjoy- 
 ment of the moment, demanded to know if 
 our "medicine days came often." No re- 
 straint was exercised at the iiospitable board, 
 and. to the great delight of his elders, our 
 ycung Indian lad made himself extremely 
 drunk. 
 
 1843. j 
 
 L 
 
TIVE. 
 
 [1842, 1 1843.J 
 
 CAPT. FREMONT'S NARIlA'nVH. 
 
 15 
 
 We cnisspd this inoniing nume- 
 the isinall creeks whicli, in the 
 a iiiiil ineltiiiL^ smnv, poiir down 
 xc hriniriiij,'' (Imvii witii them ai- 
 (liiiiiitities of siuid iiiul firavel, 
 gradually raised their beds lour 
 ahovo the level of the i)rairic, 
 crosH, making eaeh one of tl c;r. 
 Po. Raised in this way ahove 
 iliiiir prairie, without any bank, 
 ■How and winding line of Iheii 
 les a causeway from the hills tn 
 Many ppots on the prairie are 
 suntlo er (httlaiillius). 
 ire riding slowly along this after- 
 i of dust in the ravnics, amoni; 
 he right, suddenly attracted our 
 id in a few minutes column after 
 bulTalo came gallojiing down, 
 ctly to the river. 15y the time 
 herds had reached the water, the 
 darkened witli the dense nuisses. 
 I before us, when the bands tirs'i 
 into the valley stretched an im- 
 , the head of which was lost 
 •iver hills on the opposite side ; 
 y poured down from the ridge on 
 I'Vom hill to hill, the prairie hot- 
 ■rtainly not less than two miles 
 allowing the animals to be ten 
 .nd only ten in a line, there were 
 I'en thousand in view. Some 
 hns be formed of their number 
 had occupied the whole plain, 
 ime they surrounded us on every 
 ding for several miles in the rear, 
 i as far as the eye conid reach ; 
 uid us, as we advanced, an open 
 ly two or three hundred yards, 
 nent of the bufralo indicated to 
 sence of Indians on the north 
 
 earlier than usual, about forty 
 the junction, and all hands were 
 engaged in preparing a feast to 
 le day. The kindness of our 
 t. Louis had provided us with a 
 y of excellent preserves and rich 
 and when these were added to a 
 ioup, anu variously prepared dish- 
 choicest ouflalo meat, crowncl 
 of cofTee. and enjoyed with pmi- 
 , we felt, as we sat in barbaric 
 ind our smoking supper on the 
 ?ater sensation of enjoyment than 
 1 epicure at his perfumed feast, 
 f all it seemed to please our In- 
 i, who, in the unrestrained enjoy- 
 3 moment, demanded to know if 
 line days came often." No re- 
 exercised at the hospitable board, 
 great delight of his elders, our 
 Ian lad made himself extreme!) 
 
 Our encampment was within a few miles 
 of the place where the ro:id crosses to the 
 north fork, and various reasons led me to di- 
 vide my party at this point. The norlli fork 
 ,vas the principal object of my survey ; but 
 I was desirous to ascend the south branch, 
 ivitli a view of obtaining some astronomical 
 msitiontJ, and determining the mouths of iis 
 iributaries as far as St. Vrain's fort, estimat- 
 ed to be some two hundred miles further up 
 the river, and near to Long's peak. There 
 [hoped to obtain some mules, which I found 
 would be necessary to relieve my horses. In a 
 military point of view, I was desirous to form 
 some opinion of the country relative to the e-^- 
 lablishmciit of posts on a line connecting the 
 settlements with the south pass of the 
 Rocky mountains, by way of the Arkansas 
 and the south and ' Laramie forks of the 
 Platte. Crossino the country northwest- 
 wardly from St. Vrain's fort, to the Ameri- 
 can company's fort at the mouth of the La- 
 ramie, would give me some acquaintance 
 with the affluents which head in the moun- 
 tains between the two; I therefore deter- 
 mined to set out the next morning, accompa- 
 r.icd by Mr. Preuss and four men. Maxwell, 
 Bernier, Avot, and Basil Lajeunesse. Our 
 Clieyennes', whose village lay up this river. 
 also decided to accompany us. The party I 
 left in charge of Clement Lambert, with or- 
 ders to cross to the north fork ; and at^ some 
 convenient place, near to the Cnulee des 
 Prim's, make a cache of everything not ab- 
 solutely necessary to the further progress 
 of our expedition. From this point, using 
 the most guarded precaution in his march 
 through the country, he was to nroceed to 
 the American company's fort at the mouth 
 of the Laramie's fork, and await my arrival, 
 which would be prior to the 16th, as on that 
 and the following night would occur sorrie 
 occultations which I was desirous to obtain 
 at that place. 
 
 j„/,y 5,_Before breakfast all was ready. 
 We liiid one led horse in addition to those 
 we rode, and a packed mule, destined to car- 
 ry our instruments, provisions, and baggage ; 
 the last two articles not being of very great 
 weight. The instruments consisted of a 
 sextant, artificial horizon, &c., a barometer, 
 spy glass, and compass. The chronometer! 
 of course kept on my person, I had ordered 
 tlie cook to put up lor us some flour, coffee, 
 and sugar, and our rifles were to furnish the 
 rest. One blanket, in addition to his saddle 
 and saddle blanket, furnished the materials 
 for each man's bed, and every one was pro- 
 vided with a change of linen. All were 
 armed with rilles or double barrelled guns; 
 and, in addition to these. Maxwell and my- 
 self were furnished with excellent pistols. 
 Thus accoutred, we took a parting breakfast 
 v*ilh our friends, and set forth. 
 
 Our journey lh»' first day alToi-ded nolhing 
 of any interest. We shot a biiHalo toward 
 .-.unset, and having ohiained some meat for 
 our evening meal, eiicaiiiped where a little 
 timber atfiinlcd us the means of making a 
 lire. Having disposed our meat on roasting 
 sticks, we pwceeded to unpack our bales in 
 search of colTee and sugar, and Hour for 
 bread. With the exception of a little parch- 
 ed colTee, unground, we found nothing. Our 
 cook had neglected to put it up, or it had 
 been somehow forgotten. Tired and bun- 
 rrry, with tough bull meat without salt (for 
 we had not been able to kill a cow), and a 
 little bitter cotfee, we sat down in silence to 
 our miserable fare, a very disconsolate jiarty ; 
 for ve.sterday's feast was yet Iresh m our 
 meinories, and this was our tir.st brush with 
 misfortune. Each man took his blanket, 
 and laid himself down silently ; for the worst 
 jiart of tiiese mishaps is, that they make 
 people ill-humored. To-day we had travel- 
 led about thirty-six miles. 
 
 July ().— Finding that our present excur- 
 sion would be attended with considerable 
 hardship, and unwilling to expose more jier- 
 sons than necessary, I determined to send 
 Mr. Preu.ss back to the party. His horse, 
 too, ap])earod in no condition to support the 
 journey ; and accordingly, after breaktast, 
 ho took the road across the hills, attended 
 by one of my most trusty men,Reruier. The 
 ridge between the rivers is here about fifteen 
 mifes broad, and I expected he would proba- 
 bly strike the fork near their evening camp. 
 At all events he would not fail to find their 
 trail, and rejoin them the next day. 
 
 We continued out journey, seven in num- 
 ber, including the three Cheyennes. Our 
 general course was southwest, np the valley 
 of the river, which was sandy, liordered on 
 the northern side of the valley by a low 
 ridge ; and on the south, after seven or ei^ht 
 miles, the river hills became higher. Six 
 miles from our resting place we crossed the 
 bed of a considerable stream, now entirely 
 dry— a bed of sand. In a grove of willows, 
 near the mouth, were the remains of a con- 
 siderable fort, constructed of trunks of largo 
 trees It was apparently very old, and liad 
 probably been the scene of some hostile en- 
 counter among the roving tribes. Its soli- 
 tude formed an impressive contrast to the 
 picture which our imaginations involunta- 
 rily drew of the busy scene which hail been 
 enacted here. The timber appeared to have 
 been much more extensive formerly than 
 now. There were but few trees, a kii.d ot 
 long-leaved willow, standing; and numerou? 
 trunks of large trees were scattered about 
 on the ground. In many similar places I 
 had occasion to remark an apparent progres- 
 sive decay in the timber. Ten miles far- 
 ther we reached the mouth of Lodge Polo 
 
w 
 
 CAPT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE. 
 
 .1842 
 
 '.reek, a clear and liandsomn ptroam, run- 
 ning through a broad valloy. In its course 
 throuph ihc bottom it lias a imilbrni breadth 
 of twenty-two feet, and six inches in depth. 
 A few willows on tln; oanks strike pleasant- 
 ly on the eye, by their greennesn, in the 
 midst of the hot and barren sands. 
 
 The amorjiha was l're(iuent among the 
 ravines, but tlie sunflower (hrlianlhus) was 
 the characteristic ; and (lowers of deep 
 warm colors seem most to love the sandy 
 soil. The impression of the country travelled 
 over to-day was one of diy and barren sands. 
 We turned in towards the river at noon, 
 and gave our horses two hours for tood and 
 rest. I had no other thermometer than the 
 one attached to the barometer, which stood 
 at 89°, the height of the column in the ba- 
 rometer being 120.235 at meridian. The sky 
 was clear, with a high wind from the south. 
 At 2, we continued our journey ; the wind 
 had moderated, and it became almost unen- 
 dnrably hot, and our animals sufTored severe- 
 ly. In the course of the afternoon, the wind 
 rose suddenly, and blew hard Ironi the south- 
 west, with thunder and lightning, and squalls 
 of rain; these were blown against us with 
 violence by the wind; and, hailing, we 
 turned our backs to the storm until it blew 
 over. Antelope were tolerably freijuent, 
 with a large grey hare ; but the former were 
 shy, and the latter hardly worth the delay of 
 stopping to shoot them ; so, as tiie evening 
 drew near, we again had recourse to an old 
 bull, and encamped at sunset on an island in 
 tlie Platte. 
 
 We ate our meat with a good relish this 
 evening, for we were all in tine health, and 
 had ridden nearly all of a long summer's 
 day, with a burning sun reflected from the 
 sands. My companions slept rolled up in 
 their blankets, and the Indians lay in the 
 grass near the fire ; but my sleeping place 
 generally had an air of more pretension. 
 Our rifles were tied together near the muz- 
 zle, the butts resting on the ground, and a 
 knife laid on the rope, to cut away in case 
 of an alarm. Over this, which made a kind 
 of frame, was thrown a large India rubber 
 cloth, which we used to cover our packs. 
 This made a tent sutticiently large to receive 
 about half of my bed, and was a place of 
 shelter for my instruments ; and as I was 
 careful always to put this part against the 
 wind, I could lie here with a sensation of 
 eatislied enjoyment, and hear the wind blow, 
 «nd the rain patter close to my head, and 
 know that I should be at least half dry. 
 Certainly I never slept more soundly. The 
 barometer at sunset was 20.010, thermome- 
 ter 81°, and cloudy: but a gale from the 
 west sprang up with the setting sun, and 
 in a few minutes swept away every cloud 
 from the sky. The evening was very fine, 
 
 and I remained up to take some astronomi- 
 cal observations, which made our position 
 in latitude 40° 51' 17", and longitude 103* 
 07' 00". 
 
 Jiili/ 7. — At our camp this morning, at 8 
 o'clocK, the barometer was at 2() 183, flier' 
 mometer 69°, and clear, with a light wind 
 from tiie southwest. The |iast nluht had 
 been squally, with high winds, and occasion' 
 ally a few drops of rain. Our cooking did 
 not occupy much time, and we lol't camp 
 early. Nothing of interest occiirivd durini; 
 the morning. The same dreary liarrcnnesn, 
 except that a hard marly clay had rcptaccl 
 the sandy soil. Buffalo absolutely covered the 
 plain on both sides the river, and wliencver 
 wo ascended the hills, scattered lierds gavo 
 life to the view in every direction. A ^'lnall 
 drove (if wild horses made their appparanco 
 on the low river bottoms, a mile or two to 
 the left, and I sent oil" one ol I lie Indians 
 (who seemed very eager to catch one) on uiy 
 led horse, a spirited and fleet animal. Tlio 
 savage manxuvred a little to get the wind 
 of the horses, in which he succeeded — ap- 
 proaching within a hundred yards without 
 iieing discovered. The chase lor a few 
 minutes was interesting. My hunter easily 
 overtook and passed the liindiiiost of the wild 
 drove, which the Indian did not attempt to 
 lasso; all his ellorts being directed to tiie 
 capture of the leader. Hut the strength of 
 the horse, weakened by tlie insullicient nour- 
 ishment of grass, failed in a race, and all the 
 drove escaped. We halted at noon on the 
 bank of the river, the barometer at that time 
 being 20.192, and the thermomoter lOS-*, 
 with a light air from the south, and clear 
 weather. 
 
 In the course of the afternoon, dust rising 
 among the hills at a particular place, at- 
 tracted our attention ; and, riding up, we 
 found a band of eighteen or twenty biiffiilo 
 bulls engaged in a des|jerate tight. Though 
 butting and goring were bestowed liberally, 
 and without distincti'm. yet their efforts were 
 evidently directed against one — a huge gaunl 
 old bull, very lean, while liis adversaries 
 were all fat and in good order. H(> appeared 
 very weak, and had already received some 
 wounds, and, while we were looking on, was 
 severa.. times knocked down and badly hurt 
 and a 'v^-y few moments would have put at 
 end to nim. Of course, we took the side ol 
 the weaker party, and attacked the herd ; bif 
 they were so blind with rage, •.hat thoj 
 fought on, utterly regardless of our presence 
 although on foot and on horseback wo were 
 flring in open view within twenty yards of 
 them. But this did not last long. In a very 
 few seconds, we created a commotion amonjr 
 them. One or two, which were knockeii 
 over by the balls, jumped up and ran ofTinto 
 tlie hills ; and they began to retreat slowly 
 
 1842. 
 
 along a 1 
 furiously 
 had read 
 dispersed 
 to lie (low 
 remained 
 fired upoi 
 short timi 
 supper, 
 horses, th 
 in their 
 took it ii 
 went, fol 
 horse, wi 
 on his li 
 brouLrht li 
 tunately. 
 that notlii 
 the /east 
 
 The sii 
 row lines 
 promised 
 plenty of 
 ter and r 
 find clear 
 rt'nter of 
 found the 
 dred feet 
 Ihc level 
 'janks, bo 
 wood, but 
 Fcveral si 
 same con 
 Platte hot 
 clay form 
 any mois 
 Turnin^i 
 bank in 
 fnd an 
 sprcadi 
 At suns 
 thermom 
 20° E., 
 heavy 
 towards 
 sufficient 
 tions, wl 
 and lonii 
 
 Jtili/ 
 The bre 
 ibwcloii 
 iHg at : 
 Since 
 over a 
 each prr 
 leaviiifr 
 a sandy 
 peared 
 (vhich ' 
 ind on 
 fome to 
 
 Jour 
 i place 
 horses' 
 
VE. 
 
 ,1842 
 
 1842. 
 
 CM'T. FUKMONTS NAUKATIVH. 
 
 17 
 
 d tip to take ponic nstronomi- 
 ns, which inado mir position 
 ° 61' 17", aiul loiijjiiiiile 103' 
 
 t our camp tliis morninjr, at 8 
 iromoter was at •-!() 183, tlier- 
 and clear, with a li;:iit winii 
 hwest. Tlie .last iiiuht had 
 with high wind.-, and ocragion- 
 ips of rain. Our coi)l;in(; did 
 inch time, and wo loft camp 
 ng of interest occurnni dnrini; 
 
 The same dreary liarrcnne?*. 
 hard marly clay had reptaccl 
 . Buffalo absolutely covored the 
 sides the river, and whenever 
 the hills, scattered herdh gavo 
 w in every direction. A !.inall 
 iiorses made their ai)pearanco 
 ver bottoms, a mile or two to 
 1 sent oil' one ol tlie Indians 
 very eager to catch one) on my 
 pirited and tleet animal. Tlio 
 cuvred a little to get the wini! 
 
 in which he succeeded — ap- 
 
 ithin a hundred yards withoiit 
 
 ered. The ciiase lor a few 
 
 interesting. My hunter easily 
 
 passed the hinduiost of tiie wild 
 
 the Indian did not attempt to 
 
 is etVorts being directed to the 
 
 e leader. IJut the strength of 
 
 wakened by the insufficient nour- 
 
 rass, failed in a race, and all the 
 
 ?d. We lialted at noon on the 
 
 river, the barometer at that time 
 
 12, and the liiennometer 103^, 
 
 L air from the south, and clear 
 
 irse of the afternoon, dust risins; 
 hills at a particidar place, at- 
 
 attention ; and, riding up, we 
 i of eighteen or twenty buffiilo 
 °d in a desiicrafe fight. Though 
 goring were bestowed liberally, 
 , distinction, yet their eflbrts were 
 reeled against one — a huge gaunt 
 ry lean, while his adversaries 
 
 and in good order. He appeared 
 and had alrendy received some 
 i, while we were looking on, was 
 es knocked down and badly hurt 
 few moments would have put at. 
 Of course, we took the side ol 
 
 party, and attacked the herd ; bif 
 
 go blind with rage. *.hat thcj 
 utterly regardless of our presence 
 1 foot and on horseback v,o wore 
 en view within twenty yards of 
 ; this did not last long. In a very 
 s, we created a commotion amon^ 
 e or two, wiiich were knocked 
 > balls, jumped up and ran oflT into 
 and they began to retreat slowly 
 
 along a broad ravine to tlie river, ffghting 
 furio'itslv as thev went. Uy -ho time they 
 had reached fhe'liottntn, we" had pretty well 
 dispersed them, and the old bull liohbled off" 
 to lie down somewhere. One of his enemies 
 remained on the ground whore we liad first 
 fired upon tliein. and wc stopped there for a 
 short time to cut from him some meat for our 
 Bupper. \V(! Iiiid neglected to secure our 
 horses, thinking it an unnecessary precaution 
 in their fatigued condition ; but our mule 
 trMik it into his head to start, and away he 
 went, followed at full speed by the pack 
 horse, with all the baggage and instruments 
 on liis hack. They were recovered and 
 broil !iht back, after a chase of a mile. For- 
 tunately, everything was well secured, so 
 that nothing, not even the barometer, was in 
 the least injured. 
 
 The sun was getting low, and some nar- 
 row lines of timber four or five miles distant 
 promiseil us a pleasant camp, where, with 
 plenty of wood lor I'li'^, and comfortable shel- 
 ter and rich gra.=s for our animals, we should 
 find clear cool springs, instead of the warm 
 rt-ator of tlie Platte. On our arrival, we 
 found the bed of a stream fifty to one hun- 
 dred feet wide, suid< si me thirty feet below 
 the level of the prairie, with perpendicular 
 'janks, bordered bv a fring. of green cotton- 
 wood, but not a (li-op of water. There were 
 several small forks to the stream, all in the 
 same condition, With the oxreptifm of the 
 Platte bottom, the country seemed to be of a 
 clay formati(m, drv, and perfectly devoid of 
 any moi.-ture, and baked hard by the sun. 
 Turning oll'towards the river, we reached the 
 bank in about a mile, and were delighted to 
 fnd an old tree, with thick foliage and 
 spreading branches, whore we encamped. 
 At sunset, the barometer was at 25.950, 
 thermometer 81', with a strong wind fromS. 
 20° E., and the sky partially covered with 
 heavy masses of cloud, which settled a little 
 towards the horizon by 10 o'clock, leaving it 
 sufficientlv clear for astronomical observa- 
 tions, which place.! us in latitude 40° 33' 2G", 
 and longitude 103° 30' 37". 
 
 Jul,/ 8.— The morning was very pleasant. 
 _ Tlie breeze was fresh from S. 50* E. with 
 ibw clouds; the barometer at 6 o'clock stand- 
 ing at 2.5.970, and the thermometer at 70°. 
 Since leaving the forks, our route had passed 
 over a country alternately clay and sand, 
 each presenting the same naked waste. On 
 leaving camp this morning, wc struck again 
 a sandy region, in which the vegetation ap- 
 pearod somewhat more vigorous than that 
 which we had observed for the last few days ; 
 ind on the opposite side of the river were 
 »ome tolerably large groves of timber. 
 
 Joumeving along, we came suddenly upon 
 i place where the ground was covered with 
 horses' tracks, which had been made since 
 
 the rain, and indicated the immrdiate prcs- 
 I'lice of Indians in our n liborhcuiil. The 
 bulKilo, fiio, which the <lay uc for" had lieen so 
 numerous, were nowhere in sight — another 
 sure indication ihiit therr- were people near. 
 Riding on, we discovered thi> carcass of a 
 buffiilo recently killed — perhaps the day be- 
 fore. We scanned the horizon carefully 
 with the glass, but no living object was to be 
 seen. For the ne.xt mile or two, tlie ground 
 was dotted with buffalo carca-i-es. which 
 showed that the Indians had made a surround 
 here, and were in considerable force. We 
 went on (piickly and cautiously, keeping the 
 river bottom, and carefully avoidiii;r ihe hills ; 
 but we met with no intermiition, aim began 
 to nrrow careless again. \Vc luid already 
 lost one of our horses, and here Hasil'smule 
 showed symptoms of giving out. and finally 
 refused to advance, being what tiie Canadians 
 call resl^. He therefore di'^mounted, and 
 drove her along before him ; but this was a 
 very slow way ol" travelling. We had inad- 
 vertently got about half a mile 'n advance, 
 but our Cheyennes, who were t'enerallv a 
 mile or two in the rear, remained with ium. 
 There -vere some dark-looking object^ among 
 the hills, about two miles to tlie left, here low 
 and undulating, which we had seen for a 
 little time, and supposed to be buffiilo coming 
 in to water : but, iiappeninrr to hxd; behind, 
 Maxwell saw the Ciieyennes whipping np 
 furiously, and another glance at tli(< dark 
 objects showed them at once to bo Indians 
 coining up at speed. 
 
 Had wc been well mounted, and disen- 
 cumbered of instruments, we migla liavc set 
 them at defiance ; but as it was, we were 
 fairly caught. It was too late to rejoin our 
 friends, and wo endeavored to gain a clump 
 of timber about half a mile ahead ; but the 
 in.struments and the tired state of our Iiorses 
 did not allow us to go faster than a steady 
 canter, and they were gaining on us fast. 
 At first, they did not appear to lie more than 
 fifteen or twenty in number, but group after 
 group darted into view at the top of the hills, 
 until all the little eminences seemed in mo- 
 tion, and, in a few minutes from the time 
 they were first discovered, two or three hun- 
 dred, naked to the breech cloth, were sweep- 
 ing across t!io prairie. In a few hundred 
 yards wc discovered that the timber we were 
 endeavoring to make was on the opposite 
 side of the river ; and before wo could reach 
 the bank, down came the Indians upon us. 
 
 I am inclined to think tliat in a few sec- 
 onds more the leading man. and j)orha|)s 
 some of his companions, woubl have rolled 
 in the dust ; for we had jerked the covers 
 from our guns, and our fingers were on the 
 triggers ; men in such cases generally act 
 from instinct, and a charge from three hun- 
 dred naked savages is a circumstance not 
 
 L 
 
It 
 
 CAI'T. I'Ri:.MO\T'S NARRATIVE. 
 
 [1843 
 
 well cnlriilatpd to prr.mnto a cool pxnn^iso of 
 jiidi;ment. Just as he was aliciiit to tire, 
 Alaxwcli riM'ofriiizcd the Icitdiiit,' Imliiiii, and 
 slioiitcd to liiiii in the Indian lan}.niii<;i', 
 " VoiiVo !i fool, (i — damn you, don't you 
 know ini> .'"' The sound of his own lan- 
 ffuajip sccnu'd to shock tlio savaijo, ami. 
 Hwi'rvintj his liorso a little, Im |)assod us like 
 an arrow. Ho wlicoii'd, as I rode out toward 
 him, and frave nio his hand, striking! his 
 hreast and (-.Mdaiininij ".Vrapahol" 'J'licy 
 proved to i)e a vJllaL'i! of that nation, anionij 
 whom .Mii.xweil had resided as a trader a year 
 or two piovlonsly, and reroifiiized him ae- 
 cordinjrlv. NVe wore soon in the niidsl, of 
 the hanif, answering as well as wo could a 
 multitude o( (,uostions; of which the very 
 first was, of what tri Jc were our Indian com- 
 panions who were cotninfj in the roar .' They 
 secinrd disaripointed to know that tlioy wore 
 Cheyennes, 'or they liad fully anticipated a 
 grand dat.co around a I'awnoo scalp that nijiht. 
 
 The chief yhowed us his villaij;e at a fjrove 
 on tlie river i-ix miles ahead, and pointed out 
 a band of hiitliilo on the other Bide of the 
 Platte, innnediately opposite us, which lie 
 said they were froinr; to snrronn<l. They had 
 seen the hand early in the morninfr from their 
 villa;.re, and had heen makiuf; a larije circuit, 
 to avoid giving them the wind, when tlioy 
 discovered us. In a few minutes tlie women 
 came galloping up, astride on their horses, 
 and naked from their knees down, and the 
 Ifipa up. They fidlowed the men, to assist 
 in cutting up and carrying otl' the meat. 
 
 The wind was blowing directly across the 
 river, and thechief requested us to halt where 
 wo were for awhile, in order to avoid raising 
 the herd. Wo therefore unsaddled our horses, 
 and sat down on the bank to view the scene ; 
 and our new acquaintances rode a few hun- 
 dred yards lower down, and began crossing 
 the river. Scores of wild-looking dogs fol- 
 lowed, looking like troops of wolves, and 
 having, in fact, but very little of the dog in 
 their composition. Some of them remained 
 with us, and I chocked one of the men, whom 
 I found aiming atone, which lie was about to 
 kill for a wolf. The day had become very 
 hot. The air was clear, with a very slight 
 breeze ; and now, at 12 o'clock, while the ba- 
 rometer stood at 25.920, the attached thermo- 
 meter was at 108°. Our Cheyennes had learn- 
 ned that with the Arapaho village were about 
 twenty lodges of their own, including their own 
 families ; they therefore immediately com- 
 menced making theirtoiletto. After bathing in 
 the river, they invested themselves in some 
 handsome calico shirts, which I afterward 
 learned they iiad stolen from my own men, and 
 spent some time in arranging their hait and 
 painting themselves with some vermilion I 
 had given them. While they were engaged 
 in this satisfactory manner,one of their half- 
 
 wild horses, to which the crowd of prancing 
 animals which had just passed iiad reciMed 
 the Ireedom of her existence among the wild 
 droves on the prairie, suddenly dashed llito 
 till' lulls at the top of her speed. She va.^ 
 their |)ack horse, ami had on her hack al the 
 worldly wealth of our pour ''hoyenne.s all 
 ilieir accoutrements, and all ine little arli des 
 which they had picked up among us, x ith 
 some few |)resonts I hail given them. ' 'he 
 loss which they seemed to regret most \\ ire 
 their spears and shields, and some tobacco 
 which they had received from nu.'. However, 
 they bore it all with the philosophy of an In- 
 dian, and laughingly contimu'd their toilette. 
 They appeared, however, a little mortiiiodat 
 the thought of returning to the village in such 
 a sorry plight. " Our [jeojili^ will laugh at 
 us," said one of them, " returning to the vil- 
 lage on foot, instead of driving back a drove 
 of I'awnee horses." Ho demanded to know 
 if I loved my sorrel hunter very much ; to 
 which I replied, he was the object of my 
 most intense allection. Far from being able 
 to give, I liis myself in want of horses; and 
 any suggestion of parting with the few I had 
 valuable, was met with a jieremiitory refusal. 
 In the meantime, the slaughter was about to 
 commence on the other side. So soon as 
 they reached it, the Indians separated into 
 two bodies. One parly proceeded directly 
 across the prairie, towards the hills, in an 
 extended line, while the other went up thj 
 river ; and instantly as they had given tin 
 wind to the herd, the chase commenced. Th< 
 butFalo started for the hills, but were inter 
 cepted and driven back toward the rivoi 
 broken and running in every direction. Tlw 
 clouds of dust soon covered the whole scene 
 preventing us from having any but an occa 
 sional view. It had a very singular a|)pear 
 ance to us at a distance, especially whei 
 looking with the glass. Wc were too fartt 
 hear the report of the guns, or any sound 
 and at every instant, through the clouds of 
 dust, which the sun made luminous, we coulc 
 see for a moment two or three butllilo dashing 
 along, and clo.se behind them an Indian willi 
 his long spear, or other weapon, and instantly 
 again they disappeared. The apparent si- 
 lence, and the dimly seen figures llitting by 
 with such rapidity, gave it a kind of dreamy 
 eirect,and seemed more like a picture than a 
 scene of real lite. It had been a large herd 
 when the ccrne commenced, |)robably three 
 or four hundred in number ; but, though 1 
 watched them closely, I did not see one 
 emerge from the fatal cloud where the work 
 of destruction was going on. After remain 
 ing here about an hour, wo resumed our 
 journey in the direction ot Llie village. 
 
 Ciradually, as we rode op.. Indian after In- 
 dian came dropping along, «.u<;ii with meat; 
 and by the time we hati . .- i.td the lodges, 
 
VII. 
 
 [1842 
 
 J842.] 
 
 CAPT. FUIvMONTS NARRATIVE. 
 
 19 
 
 which llio crowd of prancing 
 li;i(l JM^'t, piisHi'd liiid rt'cllled 
 liiT pxislciue iiiiKiiii,' tlir wild 
 prriirii', siuldoidy dasliod 'aito 
 J top of iicr s|ic't'd. She vns 
 so, iind ii;id on iiiThiick ill thfi 
 I ol oiir jioiir Choyonnos nil 
 inents, and all ino little arli des 
 id pickoil np simony; its, ^ ith 
 onts 1 liai! <rivtMi ihi'in. ' 'lie 
 y seemed to reirrct most \\ sre 
 nd shields, and some tobacco 
 received from me. However, 
 with t!ie pliilosophy ot'an In- 
 hiiiirly continiii><l their toilette, 
 d, however, a lilllc mortilied at 
 relnrniiif; to the villa;,'e in such 
 . " Our ])e(iiile will lau^'h at 
 of them, " retiirniiif,' to the vil- 
 iiistead of driviiif; hack a drove 
 irscs." He demandeil to know 
 ' sorrel hunter very much ; to 
 ied, lie was the ohject of my 
 illection. Far from heiu;^ able 
 ; myself in want of horses; and 
 n of partiiiir with the few I had 
 met with a j^eremitlory refusal, 
 me, the slauijhter was about to 
 1 the other side. So soon as 
 it, the Indians separated into 
 One parly jiroceedcd directly 
 rairic, toward.s the hills, in an 
 .', while the other went up the 
 nstanlly as they had given tin 
 2rd, the chase commenced. Tlu 
 :d for the hills, but were inter 
 driven back toward the rivei 
 iiiming in every direction. Tlu 
 it soon covered the whole scene 
 s from liavin<T any but an occa 
 It had a very sinsuhir appear 
 at a distance, especially whei 
 the glass. Wc were too far t( 
 ort of the guns, or any sound 
 ' instant, through the clouds of 
 die sun made luminous, we coulo 
 nent two or three bulllilo dashing 
 lose behind them an Indian vvitli 
 ir, or other weapon, and instantly 
 disappeared. The apparent si- 
 he dimly seen figures llitting by 
 ipidity, gave it a kind of dreamy 
 ■emed more like a iiicture tliana 
 ,1 life. It had been a large liera 
 rnc commenced, probably three 
 Ired in number ; but, though I 
 em closely, I did not see one 
 1 the fatal cloud where the work 
 in was going on. After remain 
 lOut an hour, wo resumed our 
 Jie direction ot tlie village. 
 ', as we rode on.. Indian after In- 
 ropping along, i.iieu with meat; 
 time we liati • .• i.td the lodge*, 
 
 the backward road was covered with the re- 
 turning horsemen. It was a plea^ant con- 
 trast with the desert road we had been trav- 
 elling. Several li;id joined company with 
 us, and one of the chiefs invi'ed us to his 
 lodge. The village consisted of ab.iiit one 
 luindrrd and Iweiily-live lodges, of which 
 twenty were riieyeiines ; the latter pitched 
 1 little auart from the Arapalioes. 'I'liey 
 were disposed in a scattering maniiiTon boiii 
 sides of a broad irregular street, about one 
 hundred and iil'ty feet wide, and running 
 along the river. As we rode along, I re- 
 marked near som.'' of the lodges a kind of 
 tripod frame, formed of three slender poles of 
 birch, scraped very clean, to which were 
 atfixed the shield and speat with some other 
 weap'Uis of a chief. AH n-ere scrupulou.^ly 
 clean, the spear head was burnished bright, 
 and the shield white and stainless. It re- 
 minded me of the days of feuilal chivalry ; 
 and when, as I roile by, I yielded to the pass- 
 hig impulse, and touched one of the spotless 
 shields with the muzzle o( my gun, I almost 
 expected a grim warrior to start from the 
 lodge and resent my challenge. The master 
 of the lodge spread out a obe for me to sit 
 upon, and the s,c,uaws set before us a large 
 wooden dish of bulTalo meat, lie had lit his 
 pipe in the mean while, and when it had 
 been passed around, we commenced our din- 
 ner while he continued to smoke. Grad- 
 ually, five or six other chiefs came in, and 
 took their seats in silence. When \ve had 
 linished, our host asked a number of ques- 
 tions relative to the object of our journey, of 
 which I made no concealment ; telling him 
 simply that I had made a visit to see the 
 country, preparatory to the establishment of 
 military posts on the way to the mountains. 
 Although this was information of the iiigh- 
 est interest to them, and by no means calcu- 
 lated to please them, it excited no expres- 
 sion of surprise, and in no way altered the 
 grave courtesy of their demeanor. The 
 others listened and smoked. I remarked, 
 that ill taking tlie pipe for the first lime, 
 each had turned the stem upward, with a 
 rapid glance, as in ofiering to the Great 
 Spirit, before he put it in his mouth. A 
 storm had been gathering for the past hour, 
 and some pattering drops on ilia lodge 
 warned us that we had some miles to our 
 camp. Some Indian had given Ma.xwell a 
 bundle of dried moat, which was very ac- 
 ceptable, as we had nothing; and, springing 
 upon our horsor, we rode off at dusk in the 
 face of a cold shower and driving wind. 
 We found oiii companions under some 
 densely foliaged old trees, about three miles 
 up the river. Under one of them lay the 
 trunk of a large cotton-wood, to leeward of 
 which the men had kindled a fire, and we 
 ■at here and roasted our meat in tolerable 
 
 sludter. .Nearly opposite was the mouth of 
 one of the most considerable allluenls of the 
 South lork. In F'tiirrh'- aiix Ciislars (Reaver 
 fork;, heading olF in the ridge to the south- 
 east. 
 
 Jill,/ 9, — This morning we caught the 
 first faint glimpse of the Rocky moimtains, 
 about sixty miles distant. Though a toler- 
 ably bright day, there was a slight iMi>t, and 
 we' were just able to discern the snowy sum- 
 mit of '• i.,ong's peak" (" Irs (l.'ii.i- dirillrs " 
 of the Canadians), showing like a small 
 cloud ni>ar the horizon. I found it easily 
 distinguishable, there being a perceptible 
 dilFereiice in its appearance from the white 
 clouds that were lloating about the sky. I 
 was pleased to find that among the trider.'f 
 and voyageurs the name of '■ Jjong's peak" 
 had been ailopted iud become familiar in the 
 country. In the lavines near this ])lace, a 
 liglit brown saiidsl.jue m.ide its first appear- 
 ance. About 8, \\Q disct'rnod several per- 
 sons on horseback a mile or two ahe.id, on 
 the opposite side of the river. They turned 
 in towards the river, and we rode down to 
 meet them. We found them to be two 
 white men, and a mulatto named Jim Reck- 
 with, who had left St. Louis when a boy, 
 and gone to live with the Crow Indians. 
 He had distinguished himself among them 
 by some acts of daring bravery, and had 
 risen to the rank of a chief, but had now, for 
 some years, left them. They were hi searcii 
 of a hand of horses that had gone olT from a 
 camp some miles above, in charge of Mr. 
 Chal)on;.rd. Iwo of them continued down 
 the river, in search of the horses, and the 
 American turned back with us, and wc rode 
 on towards the camp. About eight miles 
 from our slee|iing place we reached Uijoii's 
 fork, an afiluent of the right bank. Where 
 we crossed it, a short distance from the 
 Platte, it lias a sandy bed about four hun- 
 dred yards broad ; the water in various 
 small streams, a few inches deep. Seven 
 miles further brought us to a camp of some 
 four or five whites (New Englanders, I be- 
 lieve), who had accompanied Captain Wyeth 
 to the Columbia river, and were independent 
 trappers. All had their squaws with them, 
 and I was really surprised at the number of 
 little fat bufTalo-fod boys that were tumbling 
 about the camp, all apparently of the same 
 age, about three or four years old. They 
 wore encamped on a rich bottom, covered 
 with a profusion of fine grass, and had a 
 large number of fine-looking horses and 
 mules. We rested with them a few min- 
 utes, and in about two miles arrived at Clia- 
 bonard's camp, on an island in the Platte. 
 On the heights above, wc met the first Span- 
 iard I had seen in the country. Mr. Cliabo- 
 nard was in the service of Bent and St. 
 Vrain'a company, and had left their fort 
 
90 
 
 CAPT. FRLMONT'S NARRATIVE. 
 
 [I84& 
 
 iomo forty nr fifty milos ahovp, in tho oprinp, 
 with hoitis laiiiMi witii Ilic tiirs of llio lii(<t 
 year's tnulo. lie had mot tiie same forliiiie 
 as the voyiipeiirs on tiie iNortii I'ork, and, 
 (inilini,' it inipossihle to |)roi'('('d, liad taken 
 ii|) hi» sniniiii^r's residence on this island, 
 which he liad named St. Helena. The 
 river iiiils appeared to be composed entirely 
 of 8and, and tiie I'latle iiad lost the nuiddy 
 character of its waters, and iiere was toler- 
 nhly clear. From the month of the South 
 fork, I had found it occa.si()nally hroken up 
 by small islands; aixl at the time of our 
 journey, which was at a season of the year 
 wlien the waters were at a favorahlo stacje. 
 it was not navijjahle for anythinif drawing,' 
 si'c inches water. Tiie current was very 
 «w ift — tlie hed of the stream a coarse fffiivei. 
 
 From tiie place at wiii( ii we had encoun- 
 tered the Arapalioes, tlie Platte liad been 
 lnlerai)ly well irinijed wiih tiiiil)er, and tlie 
 islaiiiJ hero liad a line (^rove of very lar;j;e 
 ('•,oUon-woo<is, under whoso broad shade the 
 t^iits were pilclied. There was a hirrre 
 ilrove of horses in the opposite pmirie bot- 
 tom ; smoke was risinij from tlie scattered 
 tires, and the encampment, liad (piito a pa- 
 triarchal air. Mr. (J. received us liospita- 
 hly. One of tlio people was sent to (riit'ier 
 mint, with the aid of which he concocted 
 very good julep ; and some boiled bulliilo 
 tongue, and colVee wilii the luxury of sugar, 
 were soon set before us. 'J'he people in liis 
 employ were generally Spaniards, and 
 among them I saw a young Spanish woman 
 from Taos, whom I found to be Beckwith's 
 wife. 
 
 July 10. — We parted with our hospitable 
 host alter breakfast the ne.xt morning, and 
 reached St. Vrain's Fort, about forty-tive 
 miles from St. Helena, late in the evening. 
 This post is situated on the South fork of 
 the Platte, immediately under the moun- 
 tains, about seventeen miles east of Long's 
 peak. It is on the right bank, on the verge 
 of the upland prairie, about forty feet above 
 the river, of which the immediate valley is 
 about six liundred yards wide. The stream 
 is divided into various branches by small 
 islands, among which it runs with a swift 
 current. The bed of the river is sand and 
 gravel, the water very clear, and liero may 
 be called a mountain stream. This region 
 appears to be entirely free from the lime- 
 stones and marls which give to the Lower 
 Platte its yellow and dirty color. The Black 
 hills lie between the stream and the moun- 
 tains, whose snowy peaks glitter a few 
 miles beyond. At the tort we found Mr. St. 
 Vrain, who received us with much kindness 
 and hospitality. Maxwell had spent the last 
 two or three years between this post and the 
 village of Taos ; and here he was at home, 
 and among his friends. Spaniards frequeiitlv 
 
 come over in search of employment ; and 
 several came in shortly after our arrival. 
 'I'hey Usually ohlaiii iilxjiit six dollars a 
 month, generally paid to them in goods. 
 They are very uscfid in a camp, in taking 
 care of hor^'es and mules ; and I engagt'd 
 one, who proved to be an acti e, laborioui 
 man, and was of very consideraide service 
 to me. The elevation of the Platte here ii 
 five thousand four hundred feet above the 
 sea. The neighboring nKUintams did not 
 appear to enter far the region of perjietual 
 snow, which was generally confined to the 
 northern side of the peaks. On the south- 
 ern, 1 remarked very little. Here it appear- 
 ed, so far as I could judge in the distance, 
 to descend but a few liundred feet below the 
 summits. 
 
 I regretted that time did not permit me to 
 visit them; but the proper object of my sur- 
 vey lay among the mountains further north ; 
 and i looked forward to an exploration ot 
 their snowy recesses with great pleasure. 
 The piney region of the mountains to the 
 south was enveloped in smoke, and I was 
 informed had been on fire for several months. 
 Pike's peak is said to be visible from fliis 
 place, about one hundred miles to the south 
 ward ; hut the smoky state of the atmosphei-e 
 prevented my seeing it. The weather con- 
 tinued overcast during my stay here, so that 
 I failed in determining the latitude, but ob- 
 tained good observations for lime on the 
 mornings of the lltli and I'Jth. An assum- 
 ed latitude of 40° •2i' 30" from the evening 
 position of the 1 2th, enabled me to obtain, 
 for a tolerably correct longitude, 105^ lii' 
 12". 
 
 Jtihj 12. — The kindness of Mr. St. Vrain 
 had enabled me to obtai. a couple of horses 
 anJ three good mules; and, with a further 
 addition to our jiarty of the Spaniard whom 
 I had hired, and two others, who were going 
 to obtain service at Laramie's fork, we re- 
 sumed our journey at 10, on the morning of 
 the Pith. We had been able to procure 
 nothing at the post, in the way of provision. 
 An expected supply from Taos had not yet 
 arrived, and a few pounds of cofTee was all 
 that could be spared to us. In addition to 
 this, wo had dried meat enough for the first 
 day ; on the next, we expected to find buf- 
 falo. From this post, according to the esti- 
 mate of the country, the fort at the mouth 
 of Laramie's fork, which was our next 
 point of destination, was nearly due north, 
 distant about one hundred and twenty-five 
 miles. 
 
 For a short distance, our road lay down 
 the valley of the Platte, which resembled a 
 garden in the splendor of fields of varieQ 
 flowers, which filled the air with fragrance. 
 The only timber I noticed, consisted of po 
 lar, birch, cotton-wood, and willow. 
 
 t 
 
i:. 
 
 [184U 
 
 iirdi of omplovinont ; mid 
 M sliortly iiflcr our arrival. 
 ol)t:iin iilK)iit six (liilliirH a 
 y paiil to llifin in poods, 
 isi'liil in !i cam)), in tiikinj; 
 iinil iniiins ; and I cntrapi'd 
 1 to bv iin acti f>, lahorioua 
 of very considoralde .icrvire 
 vation of till- I'hitto Iiltc i.i 
 iiir liiindiod foct al)ovp the 
 i.'lil)orin<r nioiintains did not 
 tiir tiio region of iierpettial 
 lis frunorally contint'd to tho 
 f the peaks. On the south- 
 very little. Here it appear- 
 couid jiidire in the distanre, 
 a few liundrod feet below the 
 
 int time did not permit me to 
 the proper ohject of my siir- 
 the mountains further nortli ; 
 brward to an e.xploration ot 
 ■cesses with jjreat pleasure, 
 ion of the mountains to tho 
 ■eloped in smoke, and I was 
 een on fire for several months, 
 said to 1)0 visible from fliia 
 le hundred miles to the south 
 MHoky state of the atmosphei-e 
 seeinir it. The weather con- 
 t during my stay here, so that 
 erminini; the latitude, but ob- 
 ihservations for (jme on tho 
 le lull and 12tli. An assiim- 
 40° -J-J' 30" from tho evening 
 3 12th, enabled me to obtain, 
 y correct longitude, 105° 12' 
 
 ^'lio kindness of Mr. St. Vrain 
 10 to obta!. a couple of horses 
 )d mules; and, with a further 
 r jiarty of the Spaniard whom 
 id two others, who were going 
 ce at Laramie's fork, wo rc- 
 irney at 10, on the morning of 
 '^e had been able to procure 
 
 post, in the way of provision, 
 iupply from Taos had not y(?t 
 
 few pounds of coflee was all 
 spared to us. In addition to 
 Tied meat enough for the first 
 ip.xt, we expected to find biif- 
 his post, according to the esti- 
 ountry, the fort at the mouth 
 fork, which was our next 
 nation, was nearly due nortli, 
 
 one hundred and twenty-five 
 
 t distance, our road lay down 
 the I'latte, which resembled a 
 e splendor of fields of varied 
 li filled the air with fragrance. 
 ber I noticed, consisted of pop- 
 otton-wood, and willow. Id 
 
 1842.] 
 
 r.VPT. FUK.MONT'S N.\Rll.\TIVi:. 
 
 3) 
 
 something loss than three miles, we crossed 
 Thompson's creek, one of the aliliienls to the 
 left hank of the South fork — ii line stream 
 about sixty-live feet wide, and throe feet 
 deep. Joiirnoying on, the low dark lino of 
 the Illack hills lyiii^f hetween us and the 
 mountains to the li>it, in aUiiit ten miles 
 from the fort, we reached Citclif a In I'uiiJri; 
 where we halted to noon. Tlii.-t is a very 
 beautiful mountain stream, about one hun- 
 dred leet wide, (lowiiiif with a full swift cur- 
 rent over a rocky bed. We hailed under 
 the shade of .some cotton-woods, with which 
 the stream is wooded scatteringly. In the 
 upper part of its course, it runs amid the 
 wildest mountain scenery, and, breaking 
 through the Black liill.s, falls into the I'latte 
 about ten miles below this place. In the 
 course of our late journey, 1 had managed 
 to become the possessor of a very iintracta- 
 ble mule — a perfect vi.xen — and her I had 
 turned over to my Spaniard. It occupied us 
 *boiit half an hour to-day to get the saddle 
 apon her; but, once on her hack, Josi could 
 not be dismounted, realizing the accounts 
 given of Mexican horses and horsemanship ; 
 and we continued our route in tho after- 
 noon. 
 
 At evening, wc encamped on Crow (?) 
 creek, having travelled about twenty-eight 
 miles. None of the jiarty were well ac- 
 quainted with the country, and I had great 
 dilficulty in ascertaining what were the 
 names of the streams we crossed between 
 the North and South forks of the I'latte. 
 This I supposed to be Crow creek. It is 
 what is called a salt stream, and the water 
 stands in pools, having no continuous course. 
 A fine-grained sandstone made its ap|)ear- 
 ance in the banks. The observations of the 
 night placed us in latitude 40o 42', longi- 
 tude 104° 67' 49". The barometer at sun- 
 set was 25.231 ; attached thermometer at 
 6C°. Sky clear, except in the east, with a 
 light wind from the north. 
 
 Julij 13. — There being no wood hero, we 
 used last night the bois de vache, which is 
 very plentiful. At our camp this morning, 
 the barometer was at 25.235 ; the attached 
 thermometer 60°. A few clouds were mov- 
 ing through a deep blue sky, with a light 
 wind Irom the west. After a ride of twelve 
 miles, in a northerly direction, over a plain 
 covered with innumerable quantities of cacti., 
 we reached a small creek in which there was 
 water, and where several herds of bufialo 
 were scattered about among the ravines, 
 which always atibrd good pasturage. We 
 seem now to be passing along the base of a 
 plateau of the Black hills, in which the for- 
 mation consists of marls, some of them white 
 and laminated ; the country to the left rising 
 suddenly, and falling oil" gradually and uni- 
 formly to tlie right. In five cr six miles of 
 
 a northeasterly course, wo struck a liigh 
 ridge, broki'ii into conical |K'iiks, on whose 
 siimuiitH largo boulders were gathered in 
 heaps. The magnetic direction of tli(> ridge 
 is northwest and southeast, the glittering 
 white of its precipitous sides making it visihie 
 for many miles to the south. It is composed 
 of a solt earthy limestone and marls, resein- 
 hling that, hereafter described, in the neigh- 
 l)orho(Kl of the Chimney rock, on tho North 
 fork of the I'latte, easily worked tiy the winds 
 and rains, and sometimes moulded into very 
 fantastic shapes. At the foot of the northern 
 slope was the bed of a crock, some forty feet 
 wide, coming, by frequent falls, from the 
 bench alKive. It was shut in by high per- 
 [loiidicular hank.s, in which were strata of 
 white laminated marl. \U bed was p<'rlectly 
 dry, and the leading feature of the whole re- 
 gion is one of remarkable aridity, and perfect 
 Ireedoin from moisture. In alioiit six miles 
 wo crossed tho bed of another dry creek ; and, 
 continuing our ride over a high level prairie, 
 a little lielbre sundown we came suddenly 
 ii|X)n a beautiful creek, which revived ns 
 with a feeling of delighted surprise by the 
 pleasant contrast of tho deep verdure of its 
 hanks with the parched desert we had passed. 
 We had sutlered much to-day, both men and 
 horses, for want of water; having met with 
 it but once in our uninterrupted march of 
 forty 'nilos, and an exclusive meat diet cre- 
 ates much thirst. 
 
 " L«s lirslias linien murha hambrv" said 
 the young Spaniard, inquiringly ; " y lat^eiite 
 laml.irn," said I, '^ amiifo, we'll camp hero." 
 A stream of good and clear water ran wind- 
 ing aUiut through the little valley, and a 
 herd of buffalo were quietly feeding a little 
 distance below. It was quite a hunter's pa- 
 radise ; and while some ran down toward the 
 band to kill one for supper, others collected 
 hnis lie vache for a fire, there being no wood ; 
 and I amused myself with huntl.ig for plants 
 among the grass. 
 
 It will bo seen, by occasional remarks on 
 the geological formation, that the constitu- 
 ents of the soil in these regions are good, 
 and every day served to strengthen the im- 
 pression in my mind, confirmed by subse- 
 quent observation, that the barren appear- 
 ance of the country is due almost entirely to 
 the extreme dryness of the climate. Along 
 our route, the country had seemed to increase 
 constantly in elevation. According to the 
 indication of the barometer, we wore at our 
 encampment 5,440 feet above the sea. 
 
 The evening was very clear, with a fresh 
 breeze from the south, 60" east. The ban)- 
 meter at sunset was 24.862, the thermometer 
 attached showing 68". I supposed this to 
 be a fork of Ixidge I'olo creek, so far as I 
 could determine from our uncertahi means 
 of mlormaUon. Astronomical ooservotionfl 
 
n 
 
 CAl'T. FRK.MONT'S NARRATIVE. 
 
 842. 
 
 gave for the camp a loniriludo of 104° 39' 
 37",and latitude 41° 08 M". 
 
 Jiili/ 14. — The wind coiitintied frcsli from 
 tlio Hunie quarter in the morninij ; the day 
 beinnr clear, with the exception of a few 
 cloud.'* in the horizon. At our camp at (i 
 o'clock, tlic hei<rht of the baroineier wan 
 24.830, the attached thermometer 01° Our 
 course thi.-i morninij wan directly norlli hy 
 compass, the variation being 15° or l(i° east- 
 erly. A ride of four miles broufjht us to 
 Lodjre I'ole creek, which we had fceu at its 
 mouth on the South fork ; cros.-iiuf: on the 
 way two dry streams, in eifrhteen miles from 
 our encampment of the past ni;rht, we reach- 
 ed a liiprli bleak ridfje, composed entirely of 
 the same earthy limestone and marl previ- 
 ously described. I had never seen anythinir 
 which impressed so stronjily on my mind a 
 feelinir of desolation. The valley, thnnifrh 
 which ran the waters of Horse creek, lay in 
 view to the north, but too far to have any in- 
 fluence on the immediate view. On the peak 
 of t' ridjre where I was standing', some si,\ 
 or seven hundred feet above the river, the 
 wind was high and bleak ; the barren and 
 arid country seemed as if it had been swejit 
 by fires, and in every direction the same dull 
 ash-colored liue, derived from the formation, 
 met the eye. On the summits were some 
 Blunted pinest, many of them dead, all wear- 
 ing the same ashen hue of desolation. We 
 left the place with pleasure ; and, after w(> 
 had descended several hundred feet, lialted 
 in one of the ravines, which, at the distance 
 of every mile or two, cut the flanks of the 
 ridge with little rushing streams, wearing 
 something of a mountain character. Wc 
 had already begun to exchange the compara- 
 tively barren lands for those of a more fertile 
 character. Though the sandstone formed the 
 broken banks of the creek, yet they were 
 covered with a thin grass ; and the fifty or 
 sixty feet which formed the bottom land of 
 the little stream were clothed with very lu.\u- 
 riant grass, among which I remarked willow 
 and cherry {cerasus ririiiiiiaiia) ; and a 
 quantity of gooseberry and currant bushes 
 occupied the greater part. 
 
 The creek was three or four feet broad, 
 and about six inches deep, with a swift cur- 
 rent of clear water, and tolerably cool. We 
 liad struck it too low down to lind the cold 
 water, which we should have enjoyed nearer 
 to its sources. At 2, p. m., the barometer 
 was at 25.060, the attached thermometer 
 104°. A day of hot sunshine, with clouds, 
 and moderate breeze from the south. Con- 
 tinuing down the stream, in about four miles 
 we reached its mouth, at one of the main 
 branches of Horse creek. Looking back 
 upon the ridge, whose direction appeared to 
 be a little to the north of east, we saw it 
 Beamed at frequcj; intervals with the dark 
 
 lines of wooded streams, aflhient.'f of tr* river 
 that flowed so far as we could see along its 
 base. We crossed, in the space of twelve 
 miles Irom our iii>on halt, three or four forks 
 of Horse creek, and encamjied at sunset on 
 the most easterly. 
 
 The fork on which we encairped appeared 
 to have followed r.ii easterly direction up to 
 this place ; hut hero it makes a very sudden 
 bend to the north, parsing between two 
 ranges of precipitous hills, called, as I was 
 informed, (loslienV hole. There is some- 
 where in or near this locality a place so call- 
 ed, but I am not certain that it was the place 
 of our encampment. Looking back upon 
 the spot, at the distance of a few miles to tlie 
 northward, the hills appear to shut in the 
 prairie, through which runs the creek, with 
 a semi-circular sweep, which might very na- 
 turally be called a iiole in the hills. The 
 geological composition of the ridge is the 
 same which constitutes the rock of the Court- 
 house and Cliiniiiey, on the North fork, which 
 appeared to me a continuation of this ridge. 
 The winds and rains work this formation into 
 a variety of singular forms. The pass into 
 (ioshen's hole is about two miles wide, and 
 the hill on the western side imitates, in an 
 extraordinary manner, a massive fortified 
 place, with a remarkable fulness of detail, 
 'i'he rock is marl and earthy limestone, white, 
 without the least appearance of vegetation, 
 and much resembles masonry at a little dis- 
 tance ; and here it sweeps around a level 
 area two or three hundred yards in diameter, 
 and in the form of a half moon, terrninjiting 
 on either extremity in enormous bastions. 
 Along the whole line of the jiarapets appear 
 domes and slender minarets, forty or lifty 
 leet high, giving it every appearance of an 
 old fortified town. On the waters of White 
 river, whore this formation e.\ists in great 
 extent, it presents appearances which excite 
 the admiration of the solitary voyageur, and 
 form a frequent theme of their conversation 
 when speaking of the wonders of the coun- 
 try. Sometimes it offers the perfectly illu- 
 sive appearance of a large ciiy, with nume- 
 rous streets and magnificent buildings, among 
 which the Canadians .iCver fail to see their 
 cabaret ; and sometimes it takes the form of 
 a solitary house, with many large chambers, 
 into which they drive their horses at night, 
 and sleep in these natural defences perfectly 
 secure from any attack of prowling savagen. 
 Before reaching our camp at Goshen's hole, 
 in crossing the immense detritus at the foot 
 of the Castle rock, we were involved amidst 
 winding passages cut by the waters of the 
 hill ; and wlif re, with a breadth scarcely 
 large enough for the passage of a horse, the 
 walls rise tliirty and forty feet perpendicular- 
 ly. This formation supplies the discoloration 
 of the Platte. At sunset, the height of the 
 
 1843.] 
 
 lUg 
 
 the 
 
,'K. 
 
 842. 
 
 1842.] 
 
 CAl'T. nii:.M()NTS NAUU.M'IVK. 
 
 ai 
 
 FlronniM, nfllimtit.s of ttit river 
 Ur its we eoulil see aUinjj its 
 ssed, ill tiie spiiee of twelve 
 iiiioii Imlt, three or four forks 
 , ami encamped at sunset on 
 
 ,vliicli we onrairped ajipeared 
 [1 an ea.iterly direction up to 
 here it makes a very siiiideii 
 lortii, paK-<inf^ l)etween two 
 jiitous hiUn, called, as I wa.s 
 len'f- hole. There is some- 
 ir thi.s locality a place so call- 
 it certain that it was the place 
 iiiient. Looking back upon 
 distance of a few miles to the 
 hills appear to shut in the 
 1 which runs the creek, with 
 sweep, wiiich might very na- 
 'd a iiole in the hills. The 
 (position of the ridpe is the 
 [istitutes the rock of the Court- 
 iiney, on the North fork, which 
 c a continuation of this ridije. 
 rains work liiis formation into 
 ngular forms. The pass into 
 is about two mile.? w^ide, and 
 ? western side imitates, in an 
 manner, a massive lortiiied 
 remarkable fulness of detail, 
 irl and earthy limestone, white, 
 ?ast appearance of vejretation, 
 imbles masonry at a little dis- 
 pro it sweeps around a level 
 ree hundred yards in diameter, 
 n of a half moon, terminating 
 remily in enormous bastions. 
 nle line of the parapets appear 
 lender minarets, forty or lifty 
 mg it every appearance of an 
 wn. On the waters of White 
 this formation exists in {;reat 
 ents appearances wliich excite 
 ) of the solitary voyageur, and 
 nt theme of their conversation 
 a of the wonders of the coun- 
 nes it oflers the perfectly illu- 
 ce of a large ciiy, with nume- 
 id magnilicent buildings, among 
 nadians Viever fail to see their 
 sometimes it takes the form of 
 ise, with many large chambers, 
 ley drive their horses at night, 
 these natural defences perfectly 
 iny attack of prowling savagen. 
 ng our camp at Goshen's hole, 
 he immense detritus at the foot 
 rock, we were involved amidst 
 sages cut by the waters of the 
 l^re, with a breadth scarcely 
 1 for the passage of a horse, the 
 irty and forty feet perpendicular- 
 mation supplies the discoloration 
 . At sunset, the height of the 
 
 mercurial coliuuii was •jrj.SOO, the atlached 
 thermometer 80", and wind moderate Iro'ii 
 S. 38° K. Clouds covered the sky with the 
 rise of the moon, hut 1 succeeded in obtain- 
 inir the usual astriuioiiiical observations, 
 which placul us in lalitiule -11° 40' 13", and 
 longitude 101° -J I' ;i»J". 
 
 July I.J.— At (i this morning, the barome- 
 ter was at 2i). Jl.O, the thermometer Tl° ; the 
 day was line, with some clouds looking dark 
 on Die south, with a fresh breeze from the 
 same quarter. We found that in our jour- 
 ney across the country we had kept too 
 much to the eastward. 'J'his morning, accord- 
 ingly, wo travelled by compass some 15 or 
 20 to tlio west of north, and st^ruck the 
 Platte soiiu! thirteen miles below Fort Lara- 
 mie. The day was extremely hot, and 
 amouT the hills the wind seemed to have 
 just is'sued Irom an oven. Our horses were 
 much distressed, as we hail travelled hard ; 
 and it was with some dilliculty that they 
 were all brought to the Platte ; which we 
 reached at 1 o'clock. In riding in towards 
 the river, we louiul the trail of our carts, 
 which appeared to have passed a day or two 
 since* 
 
 After having - iwed our animals two 
 hours for foo(l and repose, we resumed inir 
 journey, and towards the close of the day 
 came in sight of Laramie's fork. Issuing 
 from the river hills, we came first in view ot 
 Fort Platte, a po'^t belonging to Messrs fey- 
 billc, Adams &- Co., situated immediately in 
 the point of laud at the junction ot Laramie 
 with the Platte. Like the post we had visited 
 on the South fork, it was built ot earth, and 
 still unlinisbed, being enclosed with wall.s 
 (or rather houses) on three of tlie sides, and 
 open on the fourth to the river. A lew hun- 
 dred yards brought us in view of the jiost ot 
 the American Fur Company, called l-ort 
 
 John, or Laramie. This was a large post, 
 having more the air of military construction 
 than tlic fort at the mouth of the river. It 
 is on the left bank, on a rising ground some 
 twenty-live feet above the water; and its 
 lofty walls, whitewashed and picketed, with 
 tlie lar<'e bastions at the angles, gave it quite 
 an imposing appearance in the uncertain 
 light of evening. A cluster of lodges, which 
 the lan-ruage told us belonged to Sioux Indi- 
 ans, was pitched under the walls, and, with 
 tlie fine back ground of the Black hills and 
 tlie prominent peak of Laramie mountain, 
 strongly drawn in the clear light of the west- 
 em sky, where the sun had already set, tlic 
 whole formed at the moment a strikingly 
 beautiful picture. From the company at St. 
 Louis I had letters for Mr. Boudeau, the 
 gentleman in charge of the post, by whom 1 
 was received with great hospitality and an 
 efficient kindness, which was invaluable to 
 me during my stay in the country. 1 lound 
 
 iiiir people encamped on the bai *, a short 
 dislaiuc above the f.nt. All were well: 
 and, ill the eninyiucnt oi a bouiiti'.iil supper, 
 which coll'ee and breail made li..\urious to us, 
 we soon forgot the fatigues of the last ten 
 days. 
 
 Jidi/ 10.— I found that, during my absence, 
 the situation cf all'airs had undergone some 
 cliauge ; and the usual quit t and Sv;mewh*t 
 moiurtouous regularity ol the camp Imd given 
 place to exiiieiuent and alarm. The cir- 
 cumstances which occasiiuied this i baiige 
 will be lound narrated in the following e.K- 
 tract I'ldiii the louriial of Mr. Preuss, which 
 commences with the day of our separation 
 on the South fork of the Platte. 
 
 ExtrucI J'rom ihejimrnd if Mr. I'rciiss. 
 
 '\j„l,j Ci. — We crossed the plateau or high- 
 land between the two forks in about six 
 hours. I let my horse go as slow as he 
 liked, to iiuleiuiiil'y us both for the previous 
 hardship; and about noon we reached the 
 North fork. There was no sign that our 
 party had passed ; we rode, tlicre!ore, to 
 some pine trees, unsaddled the horses, and 
 stretched (}ur limbs on the grass, awaiting 
 the arrival of our company. After remain- 
 ing here two hours, my companion became 
 iuqiatieiit, mounted his hor.se again, and rode 
 oil' down the river to see if he could discover 
 our people. 1 felt so inarode yet, that it was 
 a horrible idea to me to bestride thai saddle 
 again ; so I lay still. I knew they could not 
 come any other way, and then my compa- 
 nion, one of the best men of the company, 
 would not abandon me. The sun went 
 down ; he did not come. Uneasy I did not 
 feel, but very hungry ; I had no provisions, 
 but 1 could make a tire ; and as I espied two 
 doves in a tree, I tried to kill one ; but it 
 needs a better marksman than myself to kill 
 a little bird with a rifle. 1 made a large 
 tire, however, lighted my pipe— this true 
 friend of mine in every emergency— lay 
 down, and let my thoughts wander to the far 
 east. It was not many minutes after when 
 I heard the tramp of a horse, and my faithful 
 companion was by my side. He had found 
 the party, who had been delayed by making 
 their cache, about seven miles below. To 
 the good supper which ho brought with him 
 I did ample justice. He had forgotten salt, 
 and I tried the soldier's substitute in time of 
 war, and used gunpowder ; but it answered 
 badly— bitter tnougli, but no llavor of kitchen 
 salt. I slept well ; and was only disturbed 
 by two owls, which were attracted by the 
 lire, and took their place in the tree under 
 which we slept. Their music seemed aa 
 di-sagreeable to my companion as to myself ; 
 ho iTred his rifle twice, and then ihey let \u 
 alone. 
 
CAPT. FIIH.MONT'S N'ARRA'I'lVi:. 
 
 11842 
 
 18J2.] 
 
 " Jiiiy 7. — At about 10 o'clock, tho party 
 arrived ; and \v»> ('(intiiiiu'd our journey 
 throufrli ii country wliicli otli'rod but little to 
 interuBt tliu tniveller. 'I'lie noil wan much 
 more Kiiiidy tliiiii in tlip valley below the con- 
 lluencu ol llu! forks, and the liici! ol' the 
 country no lon^'er (iroHented the refrcjdiinjj 
 preen which had liilhcrlo characterized it. 
 I'lie rich ffra.-is was now found ordy in difi- 
 pcrsi'd Hpotn, M\ low grounds, and on th(> 
 Wtoni land of tho streams. A loii;f droufjht, 
 joined to extreme heat, had ho parched up 
 tho upper prairies, that they were in many 
 places bald, or covered only with a thin 
 prowth of yellow and poor jirass. The na- 
 ture of the soil renders it extremely wuscep- 
 tiblo to the vicistitudes of the climate. Ue- 
 tween the forks, and from their junction to 
 the ISIack hill.-<, the formation consists of 
 marl and a soft earthy linujstone, with prani- 
 tic sandstone. Such a formation cainiot {five 
 rise to a sterile soil ; and, on our return in 
 Septendier, when the country had been wa- 
 tered by lre(iuent rains, the valley of tho 
 Platte looked like a i;arilen ; so rich was the 
 verdure of the frrasses, and so luxuriant the 
 bloom of abtnidant tlowers. Tho wild sap;p 
 begins to make its appearance, and tindjor 
 is 80 scarce that we generally made our lires 
 3f the Ixiis lie mchc. With the exception of 
 now and then an isolated tree or two, stand- 
 ing like a li;,'ht-house on the river bank, 
 tliere is none whatever to be seen. 
 
 " Jidi/ 8. — Our road to-day was a solitary 
 one. No paine made its appearance — not 
 even a bullalo or a stray antelope; and 
 nothing occurred to break the monotony 
 until about 5 o'clock, when the caravan 
 made a sudden halt. 'J'licre was a galloping 
 in of scouts and horsemen from every side — 
 a hurrying to and fro in noisy confusion ; 
 riHes were taken from their cover ; bullet 
 pouches examined : in short, there was the 
 cry of ' Indians,' heard again. I had be- 
 come so much accustomed to these alarms, 
 that now they made but little impression on 
 me ; and bef()re I had time to become excited, 
 the new comers were ascertained to be 
 whites. It was a large party of traders and 
 trappers, conductod by Mr. Bridger, a man 
 well known in the history of the country. 
 As the sun was low, and there was a fine 
 gniss patch not far aheiid, they turned back 
 and encamped for the night with us. Mr. 
 Bridger was invited to supper ; and, after the 
 tabic cloth was removed, we listened with 
 eager interest to an account of their adven- 
 tures. What they had met, we would be 
 likely to encounter ; the chances which had 
 befallen them, would probably happen to us ; 
 and we looked upon their life as a picture 
 of our own. He informed us that the con- 
 dition of the country had become exceeding- 
 ly uangerous. The Sioux, who had been 
 
 badly disponed, had broken out into open 
 hostility, aud in the preceding aiitunui his 
 party had encountered them in a severe en- 
 gagenu'ut, in which a nundMT of lives had 
 been lost on both sides. United with the 
 I'heyenne and (Jros Ventre Indians, they 
 were scouring the upjier coun'ry in war par- 
 ties of great torce, and were at this time in 
 the neighborhood of the Rvd Uiilli s, a fa- 
 mous landmark, which Aas directly on our 
 |)ath. They had declared war U|xjn every 
 living tiling which should Im^ lound westward 
 of that |)oint', though their main object was 
 to attack a large camp of whites ami Snake 
 Indians, who had a rende/.vous in the Sweet 
 Water valley. Availing himself of his inti- 
 mate knowledge of tlu; country, he had 
 reached Laramie by an unusual route through 
 the Black hills, and avoided coming into 
 contact with any of the scattered parties, 
 'i'his gentleman ollered his services to ac- 
 company us so far as the head of the Sweet 
 Water ; hut the absence of our leader, which 
 was deeply regretted by us all, rendered il 
 impossible for us to enter upon such ar- 
 rangements. In a canij) consisting of men 
 whose lives had been spent in this country, 
 I expected to lind every one prepared for oc- 
 currences of this nature ; but, to my great 
 surprise, I found, on the contrary, that tliis 
 news had thrown them all into the greatest 
 consternation ; and, on every side, 1 heard 
 only one exclamation, ' 11 injaiini juis ik vie 
 pour nous.' All the night, scattered groups 
 were assembled around the tires, smoking 
 their pipes, and listening with the greatest 
 eagerness to exaggerated details of Indian 
 hostilities ; and in the morning I found the 
 camp dis|)irited, and agitated by a variety of 
 contiicting opinions. A majority ol the peo- 
 ple were strongly disposed to return ; but 
 CItment Lambert, with some five or six oth- 
 ers, professed their determination to follow 
 Mr. Fremont to the uttermost limit of his 
 journey. The others yielded to their re- 
 monstrances, and, somewhat ashamed of 
 their cowardice, concluded to advance at 
 least so far as Laramie fork, eastward of 
 which they were aware no danger was to be 
 apprehended. Notwithstanding the confu- 
 sion and excitement, we were very early on 
 the road, as the days were extremely hot, 
 and we were anxious to prolit by the fresh- 
 ness of the morning. The solt marly form- 
 ation, over W'hich we were now journeying, 
 frequently offers to the traveller view-s of re- 
 markable and picturesque beauty. To seve- 
 ral of the"e localities, where the winds and 
 the rain have worked the blufis into curious 
 shapes, the voyageurs have given names ac- 
 cording to some fancied resemblance. One 
 of these, called the Court-house, we pasoed 
 about six miles from our encampment of laat 
 night, and toward noon came in sight of tnc 
 
VI'l 
 
 [1842 
 
 liiiil briiki'ii mil into oir'TI 
 
 II (III' iirci'cdin;,' uiitiiinn liia 
 miilcrcd llu'iii in a >('V('ro oii- 
 
 liii'li ii niiinlMT III livcH Imi] 
 Mitii niilfs. Uiiitt'd willi tlie 
 
 (iroH Ventre liidiiiiiH, tjicy 
 till! ii|i]icr coiin'ry in wiir pur- 
 rro, liiid wiTi' lit tins time in 
 )imI oI' tlii> liitl Biiiii .V, a f'a- 
 
 , wliicli Alls directly on our 
 
 III di'dared war u|h)ii every 
 icli slioiild \.>c liiiind westward 
 tlioii^'li their main oliject was 
 ,'t' camp of whites ami Snake 
 ad a rende/voiis in the Sweet 
 
 Availinir hinisell'ol liin inti- 
 |i,'p of the country, he had 
 lie liy an nniisiial route throiiirh 
 and avoided coiiiini; into 
 any of the scattered parties, 
 m ollered his cervices to ac- 
 ) far as the head of the Sweet 
 10 ahsenco of oiir leader, which 
 ijrctted liy iis all, rendered it 
 lis to enter n|ion Kuch ar- 
 In a cani]) consistiiiir of men 
 lid hecii spent in this country, 
 linil every one prejiarcd for oc- 
 this nature ; hut, to my great 
 ind, on the contrary, that this 
 iwii them all into the greatest 
 ; and, on every side, 1 heard 
 tmation, ' II n'ytiiirn jkis de tie 
 All the niiiht, scattered groups 
 led around the (ires, smoking 
 lul listening with the greatest 
 exaggerated details of Indian 
 id in the morning I found the 
 id, and agitated liy a variety of 
 inions. A majority o( the peo- 
 ingly disposed to return ; but 
 bert, with some (ive or six oth- 
 their detcnnination to follow 
 to the uttermost limit of his 
 le others yielded to their re- 
 and, somewhat ashamed of 
 cc, concluded to advance at 
 as Laramie fork, eastward of 
 ere aware no danger was to be 
 Notwithstanding the confu- 
 teinent, we were very early on 
 the days were extremely hot, 
 anxious to jirolit by the I'resh- 
 orning. The solt marly forra- 
 lich we were now journeying, 
 !r9 to the traveller views of re- 
 picturesque beauty. To seve- 
 jcalities, where the winds and 
 worked the blufts into curious 
 lyageurs have given names ac- 
 ne (ancied resemblance. One 
 id the Court-house, we pasaed 
 's frcin our encampment of laat 
 /ard noon came in Eight of tn« 
 
 1812.] 
 
 CAI'T. FRi:V >NT\S NARRATIVE. 
 
 9A 
 
 celebrated Chimnnj rork. It lookH, at thiK 
 distance of about thirty miles, like what i '. 
 called — till! long cliiiiiney of a steam liu'tory 
 ti8tablishuient, or a shot tower in Kaltiiiiore. 
 Nothing occurred to interrii|)t the c|iiiel of 
 ihe day, mill we eiiiMiiiped on the river, after 
 » march of tweiily-fciur miles. Hiitl'ilo had 
 become very scarce, and but one cow had 
 lieen killed, of which the meat had been cut 
 in(o thill sliceH. ami hung around the carts 
 10 dry 
 
 " Juli^ 10. — Wo continued along the same 
 fine jilaiiily beaten road, which the smooth 
 surface ol the country allbrded us, for a dis- 
 tance of six hundreil and thirty miles, Iroin 
 ihe frontiers of AlisscMiri to the Laramie fork. 
 In the course of the day we met some whites, 
 ivho were following along in the tniin of 
 .Mr. Uridger ; and, after a day's journey of 
 twenty-limr miles, encamped about sunset at 
 the Chimney rock. It consists of marl and 
 earthy limestone, and the weather is rapidly 
 (iiminishiiig its height, which is now not 
 more than two hundred feet above the river. 
 Travellers who visited it some years since 
 placed its height at upwards of .500 feet. 
 
 "./«/// 11. — The valley of the North fork 
 is of a variable breadth, from one to four, 
 and somelimea six miles. Fifteen miles 
 from the (hiinney rock wo reached one of 
 those places where the river strikes the 
 bluffs, and forces the road to make a con- 
 siderable circuit over the uplands. This 
 presented an escarpment on the river of about 
 nine hundred yards in lengdi, and is fami- 
 liarly known as Scott's bluH's. We had 
 made a journey of thirty miles before we 
 again struck the river, at a place where 
 some scanty grass ad'orded an insutlicient 
 pasturage to our animals. About twenty 
 miles from the Chimney rock we had found 
 a very beautiful spring of excellent and cold 
 water ; but it was in such a deep ravine, and 
 so small, that the animals could not prolit by 
 it, and we therefore halted only a few min- 
 utes, and found a resting place ten miles 
 further on. The plain between Scott's bliilFs 
 and Chimney rock was almost entirely co- 
 vered with drift wood, consisting principally 
 of cedar, which we were informed, had been 
 •upplied from the Black hills, in a Hood *ive 
 or six years since. 
 
 " Jahj 12. — Nine miles from our encamp- 
 ment of yesterday we crossed Horse creek, 
 a shallow stream of clear water, about se- 
 venty yards wide, falling into the Platte on 
 the right bank. It was lightly timbered, 
 and great quantities of drift wood were piled 
 up on the banks, appearing to be supplied 
 by the creek from above. After a journey 
 of twenty-six miles, we encamped on a rich 
 bottom, which atVorded line grass to our ani- 
 mals. I'litValo have entirely disappeared, 
 and we live now upon the dried meat> whicli 
 
 is exceediniily poor food. The marl and 
 earthy limestone, which constituted the 
 formation for several days past, had changed 
 during the day into a compact white or u' /ey- 
 isli wliile limesloiie, sometimes coiitaiiiing 
 liornstoue ; and at the place of our eiirauip- 
 iiieiit ibis evening, some strata ill the river 
 hills cropiied out to thi! height of thirty or 
 forty feet, consisting of a tine-graiiied gra- 
 nitic sandstone ; one of the strata closely 
 resembling gneiss. 
 
 "./»/// in. — 'I'o-day, about 4 o'clock, wo 
 reached Fort Laramie, where we were cor- 
 dially received ; wo pitched our camp a lit- 
 tle above the fort, on the bank of the Lara- 
 mie river, in which the pure and clear water 
 of the mountain stream looked relVesliiugly 
 cool, and made a jileasant cmitrast to the 
 muddy, yellow waters of the I'lalle." 
 
 I walked up to visit our friends at the fort, 
 which is a quadrangular striii'liire, built of 
 clay, after the fashion of the .Mexicans, who 
 are generally employed in bulhliiig them 
 The walls are about (iftet^i feet high, sur- 
 mounted with a wooden palisade, iiiid Inruiii 
 portion of ranges of houses, which enlirely 
 surround a yard of about one hiiiidred and 
 thirty feet square. Every apartment has its 
 door ami window — all, of course, ojiening on 
 the inside. There are two entrances, oppo- 
 site each other, and midway the wall, one 
 of which is a large and public entrance ; the 
 other smaller and more private — a sort of 
 postern gate. Over the great entrance is a 
 square tower with loopholes, and, like the 
 rest of the work, built of earth. At two of 
 the angles, and diagonally o|iposite each 
 other, are largo square bastions, so arranged 
 as to sweep the four faces of the walls. 
 
 This post belongs to the American Fur 
 Company, and, at the time of our visit, was 
 in charge of Air. Boudeau. Two of the 
 company's clerks, Messrs. (Jalpin and Kel- 
 logg, were with him, and he had in the fort 
 about sixteen men. As usual, these had 
 found wives among the Indian squaws; and, 
 with the usual accompaniment of children, 
 the place had quite a populous appearance. 
 It is hardly necessary to say, that the object 
 of the establishment is trade with the neigh- 
 boring tribes, who, in the course of the year, 
 generally make two or three visits to the 
 fort. In addition to this, traders, with a 
 small outfit, are constantly kept amongst 
 them. The articles of trade consist, on the 
 one side, almost entirely of bufTalo robes ; 
 and, on the otlier, of blankets, calicoes, 
 guns, powder and lead, with such cheap or- 
 naments as glass beads, ookiiig-glasses, 
 rings, vermilion for painting, tobacco, and 
 principally, and in spite of the prohibition, of 
 spirits, brought into the country in the form 
 of alcohol, and diluted with water liefore 
 sold. Wliile mentioning this fact, it is but 
 
M 
 
 CAi'T. FUIl.MONTS NAUUATIVK. 
 
 [ISVi 
 
 I8VJ.1 
 
 iuHlicn to tho Americiin Fur ('()iii|Hiiiy in 
 ■tiito, tliHt, lliriiii^lioiit tiu* niiiiitry, I Iiiim' 
 alwiiyx lo.iiiil tlii'iri Ftri'iriDiiHly (i|i|ii)X('(l ti 
 tli<> iiiii'>>(Jii('ti.in of f<|)iritii(iiii« lii|iiuM. Hut, 
 ill tlio |iri>si'iit htiito of tlilii{rfi, vvlicii tlii> coun- 
 try JH hU|>|ilii'd Willi alrohnl, wlicii ii ki';; ol it 
 will purciiiiM' trom uii Indian (.'Vcrytliiii;,' lu' 
 po^H('HHeH--lii(i lurn, Ills iixliic, Ins liorM's, 
 and cvi'ii iiii wile iiiid cliildrcn — and ulicn 
 any vujriihond who jms nioni'y iMiou^'li to 
 purclm.Ho a iiiiili' ciin i^o into a village iiiid 
 trade a^ain^•l tln'iii miccecurully, without 
 withdrawin;; enliifly Irom the tiadc, it i« 
 iinpoM.'.ililc lor thi'iii to (iiHri)iitinu(> its use. 
 Ill ihi'ir ()|)|)osition to this pnictice, the coiii- 
 pany is HU.-tainiMJ, not only liy their ohlif,ra- 
 tioii to th(! laws of the country and tla; wel- 
 fare of the Indians, iiiit clearly, also, on 
 grounds of policy; lor, with heavy and ox- 
 pensive oiillits, they contend lit nianifestly 
 great disadvantiijre against the iiuineious in- 
 de|)eiMlent and iinlicensed traders, who enter 
 the country from various iiveiiues. iroiii the 
 United States ami from Mexico, having no 
 other stock in trade than some kegs of li- 
 quor, which they sell at the modest price of 
 thirty-six dollars p(>r gallon. 'I'lie dilleri'iice 
 between the regular trader and the cuurcur 
 des hdis (as the l'"reiicli call the itinerant or 
 peddling traders), with respect to the sale 
 of siiirils, is here, as it always has heeii, 
 fixed and periuanent, and growing out of the 
 nature of their trade. 'J'lie regular trader 
 looks ahead, and has an interest in the pre- 
 servation of the Indians, and in the regular 
 pursuit of their husiiiess, and the preserva- 
 tion of their arms, jiorses, and everything 
 necessary to their future and permanent suc- 
 cess in hunting: the ctntrcur tirs bais han no 
 perinanent interest, and gets what he can, 
 and for what he can, from every Indian ho 
 meets, even at tho risk of disaliling liiin 
 from doing anything more at hiiiiting. 
 
 The fort had a very cool and clean appear- 
 ance. The great entrance, in which I loiiiul 
 the gentlemen assembled, and which was 
 floored, and about liflecn feet long, made a 
 pleasant, shaded seat, through which the 
 breeze swept constantly ; for this country is 
 famous for liigli winds. In tho course of 
 conversation, I learned the following parti- 
 culars, which will exjilain the condition of 
 the country : For several years the Chey- 
 ennen and Sioux had gradually become more 
 and more hostile to the whites, and in the 
 latter pan of August, 1841, had had a rather 
 severe engagement with a- party of sixty 
 men, under tho command of Mr. Frajip, of 
 St. I^oiiis. The Indians lost eight or ten 
 warrior.s, and the whites had their leader and 
 four men killed. This tight took place on 
 the waters of Snake river ; and it was this 
 party, on their return under Mr. Bridger, 
 which liad gpread so much alarm among my 
 
 |.eopl('. In the course of the fprlnif, two 
 otlier small parties had been cut oil' liy the 
 .■>ioux — one on their reliirii Imm the Crow 
 nation, and the other aiiiong the lihick hills. 
 The eniigrants to Oregon and Mr. Itridgi'r's 
 party met iiere, a tew days before our arri- 
 val. Divisions and nli^ull(ler^tanlbngs hail 
 lirowii up among them ; they were already 
 somewhat di-hi'artened by the fatigui! of 
 their long and wearisome )ourney, anil tho 
 fi'it of tlicr cattle had iM'come so niiicli 
 Worn as to be scarcely able to travel. In 
 this (.itiiation, they were not likely to tind 
 encouragement in the hostile attitude of the 
 Indians, and the new and nnexpei ted ditli- 
 cultii's which sprang up before them. They 
 were told that tho country was entirely 
 swept of grass, and that lew or no bulliilo 
 were to be loiind on their line of route ; and, 
 with their weakened animals, it would be 
 impossible for them to transpo'-t their heavy 
 wagons over the mountains. I'lider these 
 circiinii-tances, they disposed of their wagons 
 and cattle at the forts; selling them at the 
 prices they had paid in the States, and tak- 
 ing in exchange colll'e and sugar at one dol- 
 lar a pound, and miserable worn-out horses, 
 which died before they reached the moun- 
 tains. Mr. lioiideaii inlorincd me that ho 
 had purchased thirty, and llie lower fort 
 eighty head of line cattle, some of them of 
 the Durham breed. JSIr. Fitzpalrick, whose 
 name and high reputation are fumiliar to all 
 who interest themselves in tin- history of 
 this ciuinlry, hud reached Laramie in com- 
 pany with Mr. ISridger ; and the emigrants 
 were fortunate enough to obtain his services 
 to guide them as far as the JSritisli post of 
 Fort Hall, about two hundred and fifty miles 
 beyond the South Pass of the mountains. 
 They had started lor this post on the 4tli of 
 July, and immediately after their departure, 
 a war party of three hundred and fifty 
 braves set out upon their trail. As their 
 principal chief or partisan liad lost some re- 
 lations in the recent tight, and had sworn to 
 kill the first whites on iiis path, it was sup- 
 posed that their intention was to attack the 
 party, should a favorable opportunity oiler; 
 or, if they were foiled in their principal ob- 
 ject by the vigilance of Mr. Fitzpalrick, con- 
 tent themselves with stealing horses and 
 cutting oil" stragglers. These had been gone 
 but a few days previous to our arrival. 
 
 The ellect of the engagement with Mr. 
 Frapp had been greatly to irritate the linstilo 
 spirit of the savages; and immediately sub- 
 sequent to that event, the Gross Ventre In- 
 dians had united with the Oglallahs and 
 (.'lieyennos, and taken the held in great 
 force — so far as I could ascertain, to the 
 amount of eight hundred lodges. Their ob- 
 ject was to make an attack on a "amp of 
 Snake and Crow Lidians, and a body of 
 
 abou . o'U' 
 rciide/.voi 
 lulley. o 
 (i|)enili"g 
 lieigliborl 
 tiiil!, the> 
 river wali 
 of tijo Sol 
 !i'y. Ac( 
 iliaiis. Ml 
 miinewhei 
 Water. 
 |iartv led 
 liy tlii'ir I 
 ui the vai 
 skill and 
 prise, a III 
 iiiit vent I 
 Ihey 1( .-I 
 and, cont 
 -iiddenly 
 I hose the 
 l/Jiig ri's 
 liad given 
 iiitluence 
 Aero (lisp 
 by far tin 
 Iiostile nil 
 whole of 
 die little 
 council, ( 
 tliom the 
 •the Bro 
 patrick ( 
 
 red by 
 prevailed 
 lested p; 
 him that 
 that anv 
 after be i 
 tain dost 
 able to li 
 L'ranls o\ 
 
 Thus 
 was swn 
 and who 
 ous con 
 which w 
 '.vas not 
 vailed ai 
 be.it aiK 
 fully su 
 of the c 
 openly 
 Could 1 
 //Uiiters 
 this, he 
 cumstaii 
 to inert' 
 iinfortui 
 my pari 
 that the 
 this plai 
 <vhich 
 
»i;. 
 
 [184il 
 
 (iiiirsn of tin' ►'jiriiij;, two 
 ^^<■^ liad liccil (III (ill liy tliv 
 ilicir ictiirii trnrii iIip Crow 
 tluT iiliit'll;.' Ilic llliick hills, 
 ti) ( )rci,'(iii iiikI Mr. Itriil>,'t'r's 
 ;i lew (lay!* iH'tmc our iirri- 
 Mini iiii.->iiiiili'rr^taii>lin|.'H hiiil 
 ij,f tliciii ; they wiTc already 
 irtclii'd liy the r;iti(.'ii(! of 
 wi'iirisoiiic idiiriicy, mid tlic 
 (Mttio linil Im'i'iiiiu' i«i iiiiich 
 hi'iirccly ulilo lo Iriivcl. In 
 licy wcTL' not likely to find 
 ill tlii> lio.siilc iittitiKJi' of the 
 new niid niK'.\|ii'i led diU'i- 
 iraiiir up licrnre lliciii. Tlicy 
 tiio country wuk Piilircly 
 , and that lew or no linlliili) 
 id nil their line ol roiito ; and, 
 ;il<('iii<d animal.-', it would he 
 ihi'in to traiispo'-t their heavy 
 u! inoiintains, I'lider thei«e 
 they (li.'ipo.-ied of their wagons 
 !■ fnrt.s ; nelliiij,' tlieiii at the 
 |iaid in the States, and tuk- 
 ;e colll'eaiid hiii.'ar at one dol- 
 iniserahle woriMnit horses, 
 lore they reached the nioiin- 
 udeaii inlornied ine that he 
 1 thirty, and iJio lower fort 
 line cattle, some of them fif 
 leed. Mr. Fitzpalrick, whose 
 'i reputation are familiar to all 
 themselves in the history of 
 lad reached l..arainie in com- 
 . llridijer ; and the eiiiijirants 
 ! enoiicrli to ohtuiii his serviccH 
 as far as the JJritish post of 
 ut two hundred and lil'ty miles 
 louth I'ass of the mountains, 
 ted lor thi.-t po.st on the 4th of 
 iiediately after their departure, 
 of three hundred and fifty 
 t upon their trail. A.s their 
 or partisan had lost some re- 
 recent tight, and had sworn to 
 hites on his path, it was sup- 
 ir intention was to attack the 
 a favorahle opporliiiiitv oflbr; 
 ?re foiled in their (iriiicipal ob- 
 :ilance of Mr. Fitz|)alricK, con- 
 es with stealiiifj horses and 
 igglers. Those had been pone 
 i previous to our arrival, 
 of the engagement with Mr. 
 n greatly to irritate the hostile 
 ivagcs ; and immediately sub- 
 it event, the Gross Ventre In- 
 lited with the Oglallahs and 
 nd taken the held in great 
 as I could a.scertain, to the 
 lit hundred lodges. Their ob- 
 lakc an attack on a rainp of 
 row Lidiaiis, and a body of 
 
 184-J. 
 
 CAl'T. ntK.MONT'S \.\l{|{.\ TIVi;. 
 
 aboM . o'le hiiiu''eil whites, who had made a 
 ri'iidi'/voiis sdiiiewhere in the (ireeli river 
 lullcv. or on till) Sweet Water. Aller 
 f>{ieiiiii»g Homo time in Imllliln liiiiiiing in the 
 neif^lil'orhood of the .Medicine liow nioiin- 
 tiiill, Ihi-y were to cross over to the (ireeii 
 river waiers, and return to Laramie hy way 
 of ll»«^ Smith Pass and the Sweet Water val- 
 ley. Acitording to the lalciihilicin of the lil- 
 ili.ins, Mr. Itoiideiui inlnriiii'il me they were 
 fiiinewliero near the head of the Sweet 
 Water. I suhse'|iientl^' learned that the 
 partv led hy .Mr. Fii/palriik were overtaken 
 liy tlieir pur.siierH near Hock ludependence, 
 III the vai ey of the Sweet Wati-r ; but his 
 •kill and re.'iidiition saved tlieui Irmii sur- 
 prise, and, small as his force was, thev did 
 imt M'lilure to attack him openly. Ilere 
 tliey 1( ^l one of their |)arly by an accident, 
 and, continuing up the valley, lliey came 
 •iiddenly ujion the large village. l''rom 
 •liesi! they met with a doubtful reception. 
 Iioiig reMidence and familiar iK'i|uaiiilaiice 
 Had given to Mr. Fitzpatrick great personal 
 iiilliience among them, and a portion of them 
 acre disposed to let him jiass ipiielly ; but 
 by far the greater number were inclined to 
 iiostile measures ; and the cliiels s|)eiit the 
 whole of one night, during which they kejit 
 llie little party in the midst of them, in 
 council, debating the ([iiestion of attacking 
 tliein the next day ; but the inlliienco of 
 '■ the Itroken Hand," as they called .Mr. Filz- 
 patrick (one of his hands having been sliat- 
 ie-ed by the bursting of a gun), at length 
 jirevailed, and obtained for them an unmo- 
 lested ])assage ; but they sternly assured 
 iiiin that this path was no longer open, and 
 that any party of whites which should here- 
 after be found upon it would meet with cer- 
 tain destruction. From all that I have been 
 able to learn, 1 have no doubt that the eini- 
 irrants owe their lives to Mr. Fiizpatrick. 
 
 Thus it would appear that the country 
 was swarming with scattered war parties; 
 and when I heard, during the day, the vari- 
 ous contradictory and e.vaggerated rumors 
 which were incessantly repeated to them, I 
 was not surprised that so much alarm pre- 
 vailed among my men. Carson, one of the 
 best and most e.xperienced mountaineers, 
 fully supported the opinion given by IJridger 
 of the dangerous .state of the country, and 
 openly expressed his conviction that we 
 cuiild not escape without some sharp en- 
 /■/unters with the Indians. In addition to 
 this, he made his will ; and among the cir- 
 cumstances which were constantly occurring 
 to increase their alarm, this was the most 
 unfortunate ; and I found that a number ot 
 niy parly had become so much intimidated, 
 that they had requested to be discharged at 
 this place. I dined to-day at Fort t'iatte, 
 wliich lia.s been mtintioncd as situated at the 
 
 |iiii(ti<iii of Laramie ri\er with tlie Ncbrnskii. 
 Here I hear<l :t coiilirmation ol the stale* 
 meiits giM-ii iihoM'. The party of warriors, 
 which hiel st.irled a lew (lays since on the 
 trail ol the ('iiie.'niiitH, was expecteil back in 
 loiirteeii days, to |iiln llie villau'e with which 
 their laiiiilies and ilie old men had remained. 
 Thi^ arrival ol the latter wiih hourly e.vpect- 
 ed ; and soiiie Imlians liavi! just come la 
 who had left tlieui on the Laramie fork, 
 about twenty miles above. .Mr. Iti.~>nnrtte, 
 one of the traders belonging to Fort I'lalte, 
 urged the propriety of taking with mean in- 
 terpreter and two or three old men ol the 
 vilbiije ; in w liicli case, he Ihoiight there 
 Would be little or no ha/.ard in enconnteniig 
 any of the war parties. The principal 
 danger was in being attacked belore they 
 should know who we were. 
 
 'I'liey had a confused idea of the numbers 
 and power ol our people, iind dreaded to 
 bring upon themselves the military force of 
 the llnited States. This gentleiii;iii, who 
 spoki' the language lliiently, olli-red his ser- 
 viies to accompany me so lar as tlu^ Ked 
 Unties. He WHS desirous to join the largo 
 party on its return, for purposes of trade, and 
 It would suit his views, as well as my own, 
 to go with us to the IJuttes; beyond "which 
 point it would be impossible to prevail on a 
 Sioii.v to venture, on account of their fear of 
 the (Jrows. Fnaii Fort Ijaramie to tin? Ked 
 IJuttes, by the ordinary road, is one hundred 
 and thirty-live miles ; and, though only on 
 the threshold of danger, it seemed better to 
 secure the services of an interpreter lor the 
 partial distance, thati to have none at all. 
 
 So far as freciiient interruption from the 
 Indians would allow, we occupied (jiirselves 
 in making some astronomical calculations, 
 and bringing uji the general map to this 
 stage of our journey ; but the tent was gen- 
 erally occupied hy a succession of our cere- 
 monious visitors. Some came for presents, 
 and otiiers for informalion of our object in 
 coming to the country ; now and then, one 
 would dart nj) to the tent on horseback, jerk 
 oil' his trappings, and stand silently at the 
 door, holding his horse by the halter, signi- 
 fying his desire to trade. Occasionally a 
 savage would stalk in with an invita'.ion to 
 a feast of honor, a dog feast, and deliberately 
 sit down and wait quietly until I was ready 
 to accomjiany him. I went to one ; the 
 women and children were sitting outside the 
 lodge, and wo took our seats on bufliilo 
 robes spread around. The dog was in a 
 large pot over the tire, in the middle of the 
 lodge, and immediately on our arrival was 
 dished up in large wooden bowls, one of 
 which was handoii to each. The llesli ap- 
 peared very glutinous, v.'illi something of the 
 flavor and ajipearance of mutton. Feeling 
 something move behind nic, I looked rouni^ 
 
t8 
 
 CAVT. FREMONT'S NARRATIVE. 
 
 1 1843. 
 
 and found that 1 liad taken my seat ainongf a 
 litter ot' flit ynnng ])up|)i('s. Mad I boon 
 nice in kucIi matters, tlie prejiuiiccs of civi- 
 lisation might have interfered vvitii my tran- 
 quillity; but, fortunately, 1 am not of deli- 
 cato nerves, and continued quietly to empty 
 my platter. 
 
 The weather was cloudy at cveninrr, with 
 a moderate south wind, and the thermometer 
 at C o'clock 85". I was disappointed in my 
 hope of ohlaininfif an observation of an oc- 
 cultation, which took place about midnif^ht. 
 The moon brought with her heavy banks of 
 clouds, through which she scarcely made 
 her appearance during the night. 
 
 The morning of the 18th was cloudy and 
 calm, the thermometer at G o'clock at (M°. 
 About 9, with a moderate wind from the 
 west, a storm of rain came on, accompanied 
 by sharp thunc! j' and lightning, which lasted 
 about an hour. Juring the day the expected 
 village arrived, consisting principally of old 
 men, women, and children. They had a 
 considerable number of horses, and large 
 troops of dogs. Their lodges were pitched 
 near the fort, and our camp was constantly 
 crowded with Indians of all sizes, from morn- 
 ing until night ; at which time some of the 
 soldiers generally came to drive them all oft' 
 to the village. My tent was the only place 
 which they respected. Here only came the 
 cliicfs and men of distinction, and generally 
 one jf them remained to drive away the wo- 
 men and children. The numerous strange 
 instruments, applied to still stranger uses, 
 ex?,ited awe and admiration among them, 
 and those which I used in talking with the 
 sun and stars they looked upon with especial 
 reverence, as mysterious things of " great 
 medicine." Of the three barometers which 
 I had brought with me thus far successfully, 
 I found that two were out of order, and spent 
 the greater part of the 19th in repairing 
 them — an operation of no small difficulty in 
 the midst of the incessant interruptions to 
 which I was subjected. We had the mis- 
 fortune to break here a large thermometer, 
 gradaatcd to show tilths of a degree, which 
 I used to ascertain the temperature of boil- 
 ing water, and with which I had promised 
 myself some interesting experiments in the 
 mountains. We had but one remaining, on 
 which the graduation extended sufficiently 
 high ; and this was too small for exact ob- 
 servations. During our stay here, the men 
 had been engaged in making numerous re- 
 pairs, arranging pack-saddles, and otherwise 
 preparing for the chances of a rough road 
 and mountain travel. All thaigs of this na- 
 ture being ready, I gathered them around 
 me in the evening, and told them that " I had 
 determined to proceed the next day. They 
 were all well armed. I had engaged the 
 services of Mr. Bissonette as intsrpreter, and 
 
 had taken, in the circumslauce.--, o\ory pos^ 
 sible means to insure our safety. In the ru 
 mors wo had heard, I believed there was 
 much exaggeration, and then they were men 
 accustomed to this kind of life and to the 
 country ; and that these were the (lan/rers of 
 every day occurrence, and to be expected in 
 the ordinary course of their service. They 
 had heard of the unsettled condition of the 
 country before leaving St. l/ouis, anJ there- 
 fore could not make it a reason for breaking 
 their engagements. Still, 1 was unwilling 
 to take witii me, on a service of some cer- 
 tain danger, men on whom I could not rely ; 
 and as I had understood that there were 
 among them some who were disposed to 
 cowardice, and anxious to return, they had 
 but to come forward at once, and slate their 
 desire, and they would be discharged v.ith 
 the amount duo to them for the time they 
 had served." To their honor be it said, there 
 was but one among them who had the face 
 to come forward and avail himself of the per- 
 mission. I afsked him some few questions, 
 in order to expose him to the ridicule of the 
 men, and let him go. The day after our 
 departure, he engaged himself to one of 
 the forts, and set oil" with a party to the Up- 
 per Missouri. I did not think that the situ- 
 ation of the country justified me in taking 
 our young companions, Messrs. Brant and 
 Benton, along with us. In case of misfor- 
 tune, it would have been thought, at the 
 least, an act of great imprudence ; and there- 
 fore, though reluctantly, I determined to 
 leave them. Randolph had been the life of 
 the camp, and the '■'■ jietit frarfon" was much 
 regretted by the men, to whom his buoyant 
 spirits had afTorded great amnscment. They 
 all, however, agreed in the propriety of leav- 
 ing him at the fort, because, as they said, he 
 might cost the lives of some of the men in a 
 fight with the Indians. 
 
 July 21. — A portion of our baggage, with 
 our field notes and observations, and several 
 instruments, were left at the fort. One of 
 the gentlemen, Mr. (ilalpin, took charge of a 
 barometer, which he engaged to observe 
 during my absence ; and I entrusied to Ran- 
 dolph, by way of occupation, tue regular 
 winding up of two of my chronome'ers,which 
 were among the instruments eft. Our ob- 
 servations showed that the chronometer 
 which I retained for the continuation of our 
 voyage had preserved its rate in a most sa- 
 tisfactory manner. As deduced from it, the 
 longitude of Fort Laramie is 1h. 01' 21", 
 and from lunar distance 7/i. 01' 29"; giving 
 for the adopted longitude 104° 47' 45". 
 Comparing the barometrical observations 
 made during our stay here, with those of Dr. 
 a. Engleman at St. l^uis, we find lor the ele- 
 vation of tiie I'ort above the Gulf of Mexico 
 4,170 feet. The winter ?limate liere is re 
 
 (842.] 
 
 narkal 
 
 iveatlii 
 bratoil 
 la west 
 south \ 
 iccomi 
 We 
 struck, 
 fadilleci 
 
 iilO .sV(/ 
 
 !ont ho 
 pleasai: 
 rool cli 
 had be( 
 iroin til 
 (if Ihei 
 ilioir w 
 'ition. 
 lliey to( 
 
 « Ml! 
 
 iiles pri 
 ;lu ne p 
 ie parti 
 ;i)iont 
 qil'ils S( 
 nremier 
 :utir dai 
 
 oils fill 
 qu'il e.« 
 ^'er. ^ 
 tours d 
 oartir a 
 " Jc 
 
 ■•Lp 
 Jo Loi 
 .Voir, 
 
 " .Ml, 
 
 icmble( 
 warn 
 young 
 turned, 
 :ire ver 
 as they 
 a sev 
 inakinj 
 hity tc 
 chiefs 
 llie ret 
 this no 
 "I 
 
 Hat, 
 NijrUt. 
 
rivR. 
 
 1 1843. 
 
 tliO circumstanro.--, pvory pos- 
 n insure our saioty. In llic rii 
 (I heard, I hi'lii'vod tlierc was 
 'ration, and then tliey wpro men 
 to this kind of life and to the 
 tiiat these were the dan/rera of 
 ciirrence, and to he expected in 
 course ot their t^ervice. They 
 tlie unsettled condition of the 
 re ieavinfj tit. Louis, anJ there- 
 it make it a reason for breaking 
 ments. Still, I was unwilling 
 me, on a service of some cer- 
 men on whom I could not rely ; 
 ad understood that there were 
 1 some who were disposed to 
 nd anxious to return, they had 
 forward at once, and state their 
 they would be discharged with 
 duo to them for the time they 
 ' To their honor be it said, there 
 ; amonjr them who had the face 
 ward and avail himself of the per- 
 aSiked iiim some few questions, 
 expose liim to the ridicule of the 
 et him go. The day after our 
 he engaged liimself to one of 
 !id set oil" with a party to the Up- 
 iri. I did not think that the situ- 
 3 country justified me in taking 
 companions, Messrs. Brant and 
 )ng with us. In case of misfor- 
 ould have been thought, at the 
 :t of great imprudence ; and there- 
 gh reluctantly, 1 determined to 
 I. Randolph had been tiie life of 
 and the " petit gaiyon" was much 
 )y the men, to whom his buoyant 
 aflbrded great amusement. They 
 ?r, agreed in the propriety of leav- 
 ; the fort, becanse, as they said, lie 
 the lives of some of the men in a 
 the Indians. 
 
 . — A portion of our baggage, with 
 otes and observations, and sevenil 
 ts, were left at the fort. One of 
 men, Mr. (Jalpin, took charge of a 
 I which he engaged to observe 
 absence ; a. id I entrusted to Ran- 
 way of occupation, tue regular 
 p of two of my chronome'ers,which 
 ng the instruments eft. Our ob 
 showed that the chrohometer 
 Gained for the continuation of our 
 (1 preserved its rate in a most sa- 
 manner. As deduced from it, the 
 of Fort Laramie is 1h. 01' 21", 
 lunar distance 7/i. 01 ' 'J9" ; giving 
 dopted longitude 104= 4T 43". 
 g the barometrical observations 
 ng our stay here, with those of Dr. 
 nan at St. liOuis, we find for the ele- 
 the tort above the Gulf of Mexico 
 ;. The winter i-limate here is re 
 
 (84--2.1 
 
 CAPT. Fui:.\i()NTs \arratim;. 
 
 29 
 
 markably mild tor the latitude; but rainy 
 (veatliiT is IreipuMit, and the place is cele- 
 brated for winds, of which the prevailing one 
 [i west. An east wind in summer, and a 
 south wind in winter, are said to he always 
 accompanii'd with rain. 
 
 Wo weio ready to depart ; the tents were 
 flruck, the mules geared up, and our horses 
 f.iddled, and we walked up to the fort to take 
 iiie siirnip nip with our friends in an excel- 
 lent homc-hrowod [ireparation. Wliile thus 
 |)leai<anlly engaged, seated in one of the little 
 fool chambers, at the door of which a man 
 liad been stationed to prevent all intrusion 
 iWiin the iiulians, a number of chiefs, several 
 iif them powerful line-looking men, forced 
 ilioir way into the room in spite oi all opjro- 
 sition. Handing me the following letter, 
 lliey took their seats in silence : 
 
 "Fort Platte, Jiiillct 1, 1842. 
 
 " Mk. Fkf.mont : Les chefs setantassem- 
 i)les prisentcment mo disont de vous avertir 
 Je ne point vous niettre en route, avant (jue 
 ie parti do jeunes gens, qui est en dehors, 
 joiont de retour. De plus, ils me disent 
 iju'ils sout tres certains qu'ils foront feu k la 
 !ircmii;re rencontre. lis doivent etre de re- 
 ;uur dans sept k huit jours. Hxcusez si je 
 rous fais ces observations, mais il mo semblo 
 qu'il est mon devoir do vous avertir du dan- 
 ;rer. .Memo do plus, les chefs sont les por- 
 teurs de co billet, qui vous defondent do 
 oartir avant ie retour des guerriers. 
 
 " Je suis votre obeissant serviteur, 
 " JOSEPH BISSONFTTF, 
 " Par L. B. CIIARTRAIN. 
 
 " Les noms de quelqucsclicfs. — Le Chapoau 
 de Loutre, le Casseur do FlCches, la Nuit 
 .Noir, la Ciueue de B(cuf." 
 
 [Translation.] 
 
 "FoiiT Platte, Jnlij 1, 1842. 
 
 " Mk. Phemoxt : The chiefs, having as- 
 sembled in council, iiave just told me to 
 warn you not to set out before the jiarty of 
 young men which is now out shall have re- 
 turned. Furthermore, they tell me that they 
 are very sure they will fire upon you as soon 
 as they meet you. They are expected back 
 in seven or eight days. Excuse me for 
 making these observations, but it seems my 
 ihity to warn you of danger. Moreover, liie 
 chiol's who prohibit your setting out before 
 the return of the warriors are the bearers of 
 lliis note. 
 
 " I am your obedient servant, 
 
 " JOSFPH BISS0\I-:TTE, 
 
 " By L. B. CIIARTRAIN. 
 
 " Names of some of the chiefs. — The Otter 
 Hat, the Breaker of Arrow*, tlio Black 
 NiirUt, the Bull's Tail." 
 
 After reading tlii.s, I mentioned it.s purport 
 to my companions ; and, seeing tliat all 
 were fully possessed of its contents, oiu; of 
 the Indians rose up, and, liavinij lirst shaken 
 hands with me. spoke as follows: 
 
 '■ You have come among us at a bad lime. 
 Some of our people have been killed, and our 
 young men, who are gone to the mountains, 
 are eager to avenge the blood of their rela- 
 tions, which has been shed by the whites. 
 Our young men are bad, and, if they meet 
 you, they will believe that you are carrying 
 goods and anununilion to their enemies, and 
 will fire ujion you. Vou have told us that 
 this will make war. We know that our 
 groat father has many soldiers and big guns, 
 and wo are an.xious to have our lives. Wo 
 love the whites, and are desirous of peace. 
 Thinking of all these things, we have deter- 
 mined to keep you hero until our warriors 
 return. Wo are glad to see you among ua. 
 Our father is rich, and wo expected that you 
 would have brought presents to us — horses, 
 guns, and blankets. But wo are glad to see 
 you. Wo look upon your coming as the light 
 which goes before the sun ; for you will tell 
 mir great father that you have seen us, and 
 that wo are naked and poor, and have no- 
 thing to eat; and he will send us all these 
 things." He was followed by the others, to 
 the same etrect. 
 
 The observations of the savage appeared 
 reasonable ; but I was aware that they had 
 in view only the present object of detaining 
 me, and were unwilling I should go I'urther 
 into the country. In reply, I asked them, 
 through the interpretation of Mr. Boudeau, 
 to select two or three of their number to ac- 
 company us until we should meet their ])eo- 
 ple — they should spread their robes in my tent 
 and eat at my table, and on our return I 
 would give them presents in reward of their 
 services. They declined, saying that there 
 were no young men left in the village, and 
 that they were too old to travel so many days 
 on horseback, and preferred now to smoke 
 their pipes in the lodge, and let the warriors 
 go on the war path. Besides, they had no 
 power over the young mon, and were afraid 
 to interfere with them. In my turn I address- 
 ed them : '• You say that you love the whites ; 
 why have you killed so many already this 
 spring ? \ on say that you love the whites, 
 and are full of many e.xpressions of friend- 
 ship to us ; but you are not willing to undergo 
 the fatigue of a few days' ride to save oar 
 lives. We do not believe what you have 
 said, and will not listen to you. Whatever 
 a chief among us tells his soldiers to do, ia 
 done. We are the soldiers of tne great chief, 
 your father. Ho has told us to come here 
 and see this country, and all the hidians, his 
 children. Why should we not ;o ? Bcfor* 
 we came, we heard that you li.td killed ku. 
 

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