IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) y 1.0 ■^ 1^ i2.2 I.I 2.0 1.8 1.25 1 ''^ 1.6 <4 6" - ► //J ^ 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation ^^ V :\ .^\^ ^ \ ^( meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Un des symboles suivants apparattra sur la dernldre image de cheque microfiche selon Ie cas: Ie symbole — ► signifie "A SUIVRE", Ie symbols V signifie "FIN". aire Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre fllmds d des taux de reduction diff^rents. Lorsque Ie document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 i partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant Ie nombre d'images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants lllustrent la m6thode. by errata led to ent une peiure, Fapon d 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 ' m SI li i ^ c rod 1 A TRIP THEOrOH TIM *■ vKEs OF mmn ammqa; .'dURACINO A PULt »1!8CRIPTI0X OF TITB ^f c •f )i ir 5 i.'. »; 4^ i"i «:| nl fli El ^1 3:1 A 41 ul ST. LWVKENOE lUVKH, T'K^^KTirV.F W«T?T ^ MiiXi:U'AI VLAC -•■ N lib BANKS, F«OM ITS 8afdiCE TO ITS MOUTH COMMIT RCE OF THE LAKES, ETC. FOiiiX. .: ,\TTArviwT)IKR rOA TH.T! P I. KAb S ilC THA'-'KLKrl A :* I) "^ sJ II 8.1 W! OTftf) i^*!'*^ «^^^ Hmftpllisjjniemi i^S NEW YORK: TOTTED BY J. 1 i; . i K.. x.vN J:U:.l., i21,222 GDENS- — Gene- 0»^EGO 225-230 TO NlA- ... 231 ntario — haomont exandria 232-236 rTO AND Einal — fit. Toronto -Amherst 237-246 —Bay of Trenton . 247-249 . 250-253 254 Islands— ,nd— Carl- - Amateur . Windmill lliamsburg )gis — Lake imamois— River and . 255-268 Railroad Route from Montreal to Toronto, via Grand Trunk Railway — St. Anne's— Isle Perot— Vaudreuil — Corn- wall, etc Page 269-271 MoNiREAL. — Grand Trunk Railway, etc 272-277 Trip from Montreal to Ottawa City, etc. — St. Anne's — Lake of the Two Mountains — Carillon — Point Fortune — Gren- ville — Rideau Falls — Chaudiere Falls -City of Ottawa — Ayl- mer — Amprior- embroke 278-282 Ottawa River. — Chaudiere Falls, etc 283-288 Lake George. — Caldwell — Falls of Ticonderoga, etc. 289-292 Lake Champlain. — Missisquoi Bay, etc 293-295 Li8T OF Steamers running on Lake Champlain — ^Table of Distances— Whitehall, etc 296-298 Trtp from Whttehall to Rouse's Point, etc. — Ticonde- roga — Crown Point — Port Henry — Westport — Fort Cassin — Split Rock — Essex — Burlington — Port Kent — Keeseville — Au Sable River — Port Jackson — Platts burgh — Battle of Plattsburgh — Cumberland Head — Chazy— Isle au Motte — Alburgh— Highgate Springs — Missisquoi Bay — Rouse's Point —St. John's, Canada— Chambly Canal 299-322 Table of Distances. — Montreal to Albany, Portland, Quebec, Toronto, etc 323, 324 Trip from Montreal to Quebec— Longueuil — Rapids of St. Mary— Varennes — Sorel, or William Henry — Lake St, Peter — Three Rivers — Richelieu Rapids — Cape Rouge- Wolfe's Cove 325-32Q QuEREC. — The Citadel — Plains of Abraham — Wolfe's Monu- ment — Gen. Montgomery 329-338 Vicinity of Quebec. — Cape Rouge — ^Falls of Lorette — Falls of Montmorenci— Falls of St. Anne— Lake St. Charles- Point Levi— Chaudiere Falls 339-S42 Trip from Quebec to the Saguenav River, etc. — Island of Orleans —St. Patrick's Hole — Madam Island — Cape Tour- ment — Grosse Island — St. Thomas— Crane Island — Isle aux Coudres- Murray Bay— Kamouraska — Red Island— River du Loup — KiJtouna— Tadousac 843-351 Saguenay River. — Ttite du Boule — St. Louis Island— Eter- nity Point and Cape Trinity— Tableau — Ha-Ha, or Great Bay— Chicoutimi—Lake St. John 852-367 Trip to Murray Bay, Tadousac, Ha-Ha Bay, etc. 858-360 Anticosti. — Gulf of St. Lawrence, etc 861-863 Value of Moneys, etc 864 Advsrtibements 865-406 i ' J , < I .1 ! t I ^'1 fist 0f (&mMlh\mnti. Page. 1. Frontispiece. — Cedar Rapids— St. Lawrence River. 2 2. Vignette. — Horse Shoe Fall— Niagara 17 3. Saut Stb Marie — from American side ... 46 4. The Chapel— Pictured Rocks 66 5. Island of Mackinac Ill 6. Arched Rock — Ma^^kinac 112 7. Brock's Monument — Queenston Heights 204 8. Rapids in Niagara River, above American FalL . . . 206 9. American Fall, by moonlight 211 10. Map of Lake Ontario, and surrounding Country . . . 219 11. Fort Niagara — Mouth Niagara River 221 12. Steamboat Landing, Burlington, Tt 807 13. Cape Trinity and Point Eternity, Sagueney River 344 14. Map and Profile of the Valley of the St. Law- rence River and Lake Country. RAII STEAMBOAT . Stations, eU NEW YORl Albany, {I Troy, {Sta Saratoga Sp Whitehall, y Ticonderoga Burlingto Plattsburgh Rouse's Poii St. John's, ( MONTREAl Note.— Thi excursions dui plain, a most 1 by romantic a BAILEOAD B ] Stations, etc NEW YORI Poughkeepsi Albany . . . Tr»jy North Benn Rutland . Middlebury Burlingto Rouse's Poll St. John's, ( MONTREA] Usual Fai Page. iver. 2 • • .. 17 .. 46 • • .. 66 .. Ill • • .. 112 • • .. 204 L. .. 206 .. » .. 211 5^. .. 219 • • .. 224 . . .. 307 liver 344 AW- RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTES. STEAMBOAT AND ^AILEOAD BOUTE FEOM NEW YORK TO MONTBEAL, via LAKE GHAMFLAIN. Usual Time. H. M. Stations, etc. Miles. NEW YORK Albany, {Steamer) 145 10 00 Troy, {Steamer) 161 10 30 Saratoga Springs, {Railroad) 182 Whitehall, vi2a»/road) 223 14 00 « « • • • • Ticonderoga, {Steamer). BUELINGTON, Vt. Plattsburgh, N. Y. Rouse's Point, N. Y. ** .... St. John's, Can. {Railroad)*. MONTREAL, {Railroad).,. 247 300 20 00 325 360 24 00 374 395 26 00 Note. — This line of trayel affords one of the most deli^tfulL excursions during warm weather — ^passing through Lake Uham- plain, a most lovely and picturesque sheet of water, i^urroundedE. by romantic and mountainous scenery. BAILEOAD ROUTE PBOM NEW YOEK TO MONTBEAL, via- RUTLAND AND BUBLINGTON, VT. Stations, etc. MUeis. UsnalTjme.. NEW YORK Poughkeepsie 76 Albany 144 Trmy 150 North Bennington 182 Rutland 234 Mlddlebury 266 10 30> BuRUNGTOif XS.toPlattsb'h) 301 1100 Rouse's Point 356 14 O0» St. John's, C. E 879 16 00^ MONTREAL 400 16 00» Usual Fare from New York to Montreal, $9 to $10 50. 2 40 5 00 5 16. 6 80< 8 30» if 14 RAILKOAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTES. EAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM NEW YORK TO NIAGARA FALLS AND TORONTO, 0. W., LEAVING NEW YORF*: AT 6 P.M. BY STEAMER. Stations, etc. MUca. ^ UBnalTime. NEW YORK Albany, {Steamer) 145 12 00 {( <( «( Schenectady, (Railroad) . . . Utica, Rome, Syracuse, Rochester, (*9^ to Toronto) Lockport, {Railroad) . . . Suspension Bridge, *^ Lewiston, <« TORONTO, ( Steamer) 494 162 13 00 240 16 00 264 16 80 293 18 00 874 22 46 430 26 00 448 26 00 452 30 00 RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM NEW YORK TO OSWEGO, TORONTO, ETC., LEAVING NEW YORK AT 6 A.M. BY HUDSON RIVER RAILROAD. Station., etc. MUea. UsnalTime. NEW YORK Poughkeepsie, {Railroad) . Hudson, Albany, Schenectady, Utica, Rome, Syracuse, Oswego, Lewiston, ( Steamer 140 m.) . TORONTO, {Steamer 150m.) Note. — Passengers by continuing on by Railroad from Syra- cuse, via Rochester and Lockport, will arrive at Suspension Bridge, 448 miles,"'in sixteen hours after leaving New York, stop at Niagara Falls if desired, and reach Toronto by Rail- rofibd, via Hamilton, 0. W., 81 miles farther; making the total distance from New York to Toronto by Railroad, via Suspen- Bion Bridge, 629 miles. (( (( (C « (( If €t 76 2 40 116 144 162 4 00 6 00 6 00 240 8 30 254 9 00 293 ...... 10 30 828 13 00 468 478 27 00 il RAIL RAILROAD AH COLLINC Toronto to (Collingwood to Ports, etc. Collingwood . . Cape Rich , Cabot's Head . . . Lonely Island. . Cape Smy th . . . , She-ha-vm-nah- Man-i-tou-wah-i I Little Current y Great Manitouli] Clapperton Islan Barrio Island . . . Cockburn Island Druromond's Isli Bruce Mines, C 3t. Joseph Islanc Oampement D'Oi The Narrows . . Sugar Island, M Nebish Rapids . Lake George Church'J Landii Garden River Se Saut Stk Mari Steamboat I Including RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTES. 15 RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTE PROM TORONTO TO COLLINGWOOD AND BAUT 8TK MARIE, MICH. Toronto to Colli no wood {Railroad Route) ^ 94 miles. Steamboat Route. (Collingwood to Saut Ste Marie, Mich., passing through Qeor- gian Bay and North Channel.) Ports, etc. Miles. Ports, etc. Miles. Collingwood Saut Ste Marie Cape Ilich 80 Sugar Island 4 Cabot's Head 80 Garden Riyer Set 10 Lonely Island 100 Churches Landing 14 Cape Smyth 125 Lake George 20 She-ba-vm-nah-ning . . . . 145 Nebish Rapids 24 170 Man-i-tou-wah-ning (25 m.) Little Current, > Great Manitoulin Is. ) Clapperton Island 190 Barrie Island 220 Cockburn Island 255 Druromond's Island, Mich. 270 St. Joseph Island 26 The Narrows 35 Campement D'Ours Is 88 Bruce Mines 50 Drummond's Island, Mich. 70 Cockburn Island, C. W. . . 86 Barrie Island 120 Bruce Mines, C. W..... 290 Clapperton Island 150 3t. Joseph Island 296 Little Current, ^ _-. Campement D'Ours Is 302 Great Manitoulin Is. > The Narrows 305 Man-i-tou-wah-ning(25m.) Sugar Island, Mich 315 She^ha-wa-nah-ning 195 Nebish Rapids •. . . . 316 Cape Smyth 215 Lake George 320 Lonely Island 240 Church'd Landins 326 Cabot's Head 260 Garden River Set 330 Cape Rich. 810 Saut Ste Marie 340 Collingwood 340 Steamboat Fare, $8 60. Usual Time, 86 hours. Including meals. Note.— Landings in RaUo, I I 16 RAILROAU AND STEAMBOAT ROUTES. |:M I '- ■ 1 STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM 8AUT STE MARIE TO SUPEKIOR CITY, Wia., PASSINO ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE OF LAKE SUPERIOR. Ports, etc. Miles. Saut Ste Marie Point Iroquois 15 White Fish Point 40 Point au Sable 90 Pictured Rocks 110 Grand Island 125 Marquette, (Fare, $6.). . 170 Manitou Island 235 Copper Harbor 250 Eagle Harbor. 266 Eagle River 276 Ontonagon^ (Fare, $9.) . 836 La Pointe, (Fare, $11). . 410 Bayfield 414 Point de Tour 424 Superior CiTYrFare $13) 494 Ports, etc. Miles. Superior City Point de Tour 70 Bayfield 80 La Pointe 83 Ontonagon 158 EagleRiver 218 Eagle Harbor 228 Copper Harbor 244 Manitou Island .• 269 Marquette 824 Grand Island 369 Pictured Rocks 884 Point au Sable 404 White Fish Point 454 Point Iroquois 479 Saut Ste Marie 494 Usual Time from Saut Ste Marie to Superior City, 54 hours, including landings. ROUTE FROM NEW YORK TO THE FALLS OF ST. ANTHONY, via LAKE SUPERIOR. Stopping Places. Total Miles. Usual Time. New York to Albany, by ( Steamboat) . . 146 12 hours. Albany to Niagara Falls, (Railroad) 803 448 1 day. Niagara Falls to Toronto, {R.R. and St.) 46-494 1^ " Toronto to CoUingwood, (Railroad) 94-588 l| « Collingwood to Saut Ste Marie, (S^camfttfaO 340-928 8 *< Saut Ste Marie to La Pointe, ( Steamboat) 350-1 ,278 4^ « La Pointe to Superior City, (Steamboat) . 84-1,362 6 «« Superior City to Falls St. Croix, (Portage) 120-1,482 8 " Falls St. Croix to milw&ter, (Steamboat) 30-1,512 Stillwater to St. Paul, ( Stage) 18-1,530 St. Paul to Falls oJSt. Anthony, (Stage) 8-1,538 9 " From the Falls of St. Anthony to Dubuque 826 miles. *« Dubuque to St. Louis, ( Steamboat) 474 " Total 800miles. KIOR ►F Miles. .. .. 70 .. 80 .. 83 .. 158 .. 218 .. 228 .. 244 .. 269 .. 824 . . . 369 ... 884 ... 404 . . . 454 ... 479 . . . 494 4 hours, PHONY, iial Time. 2 hours. 1 day. li" 3 ** 4i " 6 «« 8 « 9 ({ 26 miles. 00 miles. ATRIP TflBOUOH THE LAKES OF NORTH AMERICA. RAILROAD ROUTE FROM TORONTO TO COLLING' WOOD, AND TRIP AROUND LAKE SIMCOK. After passing over the ^ delightful and usually smooth waters of Lake On- tario, the Tourist, on ap- proaching Toronto, either from Cape Vincent, Os- wego, Rochester, Buffalo, or the Falls of Niagara, usually experiences sensations which incite him to further travel and enjoyment. From this place the tourist can proceed direct to Montreal and Quebec, by railroad or steamer, or to Hamilton and Detroit on the west — while the CoUingwood route extends north through a beautiful section of country. 2* ?• , 'Ilia iF "-■ ■*-lfir — t^ urn f • 18 TORONTO TO COLLINGWOOD, ETC. I i ! I U ■ It !:;;l On landing at Toronto from American ports, it is m ual for thd c istom-house officers to question passengers in regard to the contents of their baggage, which if it consists of nothing but common wearing apparel, is passed ^dthout further delay, and the porters take charge of the samo, delivering the articles as directed. All persons, however, taking into Canada manufac- tured goods, whether subject to pay duty or otherwise, are ex- pected to enter the same at tht^ custom house. The hotels are principally situated on Front Street, facing the bay, Church Street, or King Street, the latter being the principal promenade, or Broadway, of Toronto, Yonge Street is another principal thoroughfare, extending from the Espla- nade, Of water's edge, for many miles into the interior, affording a delightful drive in pleasant weather. The attractions of this th'iiving city, in connection with the beautiful ba^ and harbor, are well worthy the attention of the tourist. For a further de- scription of Toronto, see page 240. The railroads diverging from Toronto are the Oniarioy Sim- coe and Huron Railroad^ extending north to Collingwood, 94 miles; the Grand Trunk Railnay^ extending northeast to Montre, Sim- ood, 94 least to Sarnia) m and ia, run- on, and se lail- a great about irs from ho com- eamboat twice as tnded at e steam* tion, for ler ports Passenger trains leave Toronto morning and afternoon for Oollingwood, etc., starting from the depot near the corner of Front and Bay Streets. The first objects of interest passed are the Parliament House, University Building, Lunatic Asylum, Ihe Barraoks, and Old Fort,* the latter being situated near the water's edge, for the protection of the bay and harbor. The Grand Trunk Railway also runs for two or three miles parallel with the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Railroad. The farming land through which the latter road runs is very pro- ductiye, being in part heavily timbered with maple, birch, beech, oak, elm, pine, and hemlock. For many miles there seems to ha a been a studied effort to avoid the villages and thriving settlements lying west of Toronto on Yonge Street road. Thorxhill Station, 14 miles from Toronto, is located four miles west from the village, which is situated on Yonge Street. Here are extensive fiouring-mills, propelled by water-power de- rived from the river Don, flowing into Toronto Bay. The highest summit of the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Rail- road, being 700 feet above Lake Ontario, and 226 feet above the level of Lake Simcoe, is passed about 25 miles north of Toronto. The highest grade ascending is sixty feet to the mile. AuROR ' , 29 miles from Toronto, is a small village situated on Yonge Street, where the morning trains usually meet on their way to and from CoUingwood. New Market, 34 miles from Toronto, is an old and thriving town, surrounded by a fine section of country. Here are sev- eral millF* and other manufacturing establishments, situated on a stream which passes through the village, flowing into Lake Simcoe on the north. Fruit of different kinds, of n-^ quality, as well as grain, is raised in large quantities in ihw icinity. Holland Landing, 38 miles north of Toronto uy railroad, is ♦ The Old Garrison^ as it is now called, is situated on the lake shore, commanding the entrance to the harbor. On th^ capture of Toronto, formerly called Little York, by the American army in 1S18, the magazine cf the fort was flred by the British on their retreat, causing the death of General Pikk, the American commander, and many other valuable men. Long may it be before the scourge of war again desolates the frontier bor- dering the waters of the lakes or the St. Lawrence Biver. 20 TORONTO TO COLLINGWOOD, ETC. :iii i li i ^1! sdyantageously situated on Holland River, which empties into Lake Simcoe. It contains an Episcopal, Pre8byt<\rian, and Methodist church; steam and water power, grist and saw mills, an extensive tannery, a foundry, and about 1,500 inhabit' ants, 'he railway here again intersects Yonge Street, studded with ti.4 . dwellings, orchards, and farms, all the way through from Toronto, 86 miles, bearing evidence of wealth, intelligence, and comfort, not surpassed by any other section of Canada. Br vDroRD, 42 miles from Toronto, is a small village situated near Lake Simcoe. The afternoon train of cars meets at this station on its way to and from Toronto. Large quantities of wheat and other farming products are annually sent from this place to Toronto, and other markets. Belt^ Ewart, 53 miles from Toronto, is situated on Cook's Bay, lying at the south end of Lake Simcoe. Here are a con- venient steamboat landing, several stores and lumber yards, and a population of some 300 or 400 inhabitants. The stumps and decayed trees by which it is surrounded indicate that it is of recent origin, yet still the town-lota are held at a high price, showing that speculation is not entirely confined to the Yankees, as the Americans are here usually called. Baring the summer of 1856 the author accepted an invita- tion to visit Lake Simcoe, and take a trip over its lovely waters, now plowed by one of the most comfortable steamers, named the J. C. Morrison, in honor of the President of the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Railroad. This pioneer work of Upper Canada was first advocated and commenced through the untir- ing zeal of an enterprising citizen of Toronto, now entirely dis- connected with its present management. The running of the trains on the above road, and the steamer on the lake, is so arranged that pleasure travelers can leave Toronto in the morning, enjoy a most delightful sail around Lake Simcoe, and return to Toronto in the evening, or proceed cmward toward CoUingwood, reaching the latter place in ample time for the steamer for the Saut Ste Marie, which usually leaves soon after the arrival of the evening train. long from north picturesque islai ened by the eflFe autumn months. Superior about the Severn Rivei On leaving th runs between £ inhabited by In( idle life, neglecti certain employm Jack.son*8 Po landing usually resque spot, as Tenient steamboa Georgiana Is on tJie east, near ifiland, at present Beaverton, X from Orillia, is a habitants. Here A railroad, to be north shore of Li LlKE SIMCOK. 21 '-'«Cr fc^^-^^*5^ij^ .if^i^JK ff,5- . -^ ■ ^/_, The beautiful steamer J. C. Morrison daily leayee Bell Ewart, on the arrival of the morning train from Toronto, making a trip around Lake SiMCOE, a most lovely and pure sheet of water, elevated 474 feet above Lake Ontario and 184 feet above Lake Huron. It is about 40 miles long from north to south, and 25 miles wide, embosoming several picturesque islands, the beauties of which are very much height- ened by the effects of light and shade during the summer and autumn months. This romantic lake is elevated above Lake Superior about 100 feet; its surplus waters running through the Severn River into Georgian Bay or Lake Huron, On leaving the landing in Cr Vs Bay, the steamer usually runs between Bird and Snake Islands, both being owned and inhabited by Indians of the Mohawk tribe, who here lead an idle life, neglecting the noble pursuit of agriculture for the less certain employment of fishing and hunting. Jackson's Point, twelve miles from Bell Bwart, is the first landing usually made on the upward trip. This is a pictu- resque spot, as yet unimproved, although affording a con- venient steamboat landing. Georgiana Island, eight miles farther, is next passed, lying on tlie east, near the main shore. This is a large and fertile island, at present unimproved. Beaverton, 29 miles from Bell Ewart and 21 miles distant from Orillia, is a flourishing village, containing about 1,000 in- habitants. Here is a long pier and good steamboat landing. A railroad, to be built, extending from Port Hope, lying on the north shore of Lake Ontario, to Lake Simcoe, will terminate at I l\ LAKE 8IMOOX. ii, \ il 1 ii ' i '! I' tho Ooorgian rapida and fall to be found goi ample amusem On returnin direction along sion of picture&N Hawkstopti: where building summer visitor direct for Bell ] at the head of ti Deaverton, which is surrounded by a fine section of agricaltural lands, producing wheat and other kinds of grain of good quality. Thora Iblaitd is next passed on the west, and Point Mora on the right, running in a N.W. direction toward the foot of the lake, which here increases in beauty. Qrape Island, lying near the foot of the lake, is a beautiful small uninhabited island ; and near by on the west lies Chief Jtlandf occupied by Indians. Here the islands and headlands appear to great advantage, btsing clothed with rich foliage, varied in tint by every passing cloud. Atherly, 18 miles from Beaverton, is a steamboat landing and small settlement at the foot of Lake Simcoe. Half a mile below Atherly the steamer passes through a narrow channel I eight miles froi and draw-bridge into Lake Couchiehing, or Seoern RiveTf here I soon enters Coc some three or four miles wide, containing several beautiful I iniles south of 0: small islands, where may usually be seen the Indians in bark I in time to take i canoes gliding from island to island, seeming in the distance to I thus affording tl resemble fairies of by -gone days. The islands may be thus | of the most beau described : At Lefroy, |52 miles from To Barrie Stat Orillia, Simcoe Co., C. W., is pleasantly situated threolcoUinirwood is s miles beyond Atherly by steamboat route. This is a summer I jjjg ^^^^ of Barr resort for invalids and seekers of pleasure. The village con- L ^oad runninir r tains two churches, three hotels, and several boarding-houses lof^jj^ ^^^ ^ , for the accommodation of visitors. Population about 800.1 Barrie the " All the fairy crowds Of Islanda, which together lie, As quietly as the spots of skv, Among the evening clouds." This place is destined no doubt to become a favorite and fashion able resort, being easily reached from Toronto or CoUingwood. Rama is the name of an Indian village situated across the on the northwesi Besides the count, m Episcopal, Pr lake from Orillia, about four miles distant. The Indians may ehurch • also two here be seen engaged in fishing, or paddling from place to place, many of them leading a roving and idle life, no doubt being destined soon to fade away as the falling leaf of autumn. The Rapids or Falls commence in the Severn River some seven or eight miles below Orillia, which stream empties int< tains about 1,600 lultural country, ^shene, 32 miles After leaving B ailroad runs in TORONTO TO COLLINGWOOD, ETC. 28 iltural uality. i Mora ; of the iho Georgian Bay near Penotanguiflhene, after a succession of rapids and falls of 184 feet descent. In the lake and riror are to be found good fishing, and game of different kinds, affording ample amusement to the angler and sportsman. On returning from Orillia, the steamer runs in a southerly direction along the west shore of the lake, presenting a succes- sion of picturesque headlands, and most beautiful water scenery. Hawkbtone, 15 miles south of Orillia, is a new settlement, where buildings are being erected for the accommodation of summer visitors. On leaving Hawkstone the steamer runs direct for Bell Ewart, passing the mouth of Kempenfeldt Bay, at the head of which lies the town of Barrie. Big Bay Point, channel I eight miles from Hawkstone, is next passed, and the steamer yer, here I soon enters Cook's Bay, on which is situated Bell Ewart, 83 >eautiful I miles 'south of Orillia. The steamer usually arrives at 5} p.m., in bark in time to take the afternoon cars for CoUingwood or Toronto, stance to thus affording the pleasure traveler an opportunity to visit one be thus of the most beautiful lakes of Canada. autiful \ Chief idlands foliage, landing f a mile At Lefroy, one mile from Bell Ewart by branch road, and 52 miles from Toronto, the journey by railrAl is resumed. Barrie Station, 63 miles from Toronto and 31 miles from »d three I CoUingwood, is situated on Kempenfeldt Bay, directly opposite summer I the town of Barrie, about one mile distant, which is reached by [age con- 1|^ road running round the head of the bay, affording a fine view ig-houseslof the town and surrounding country. )ut 800.1 Barrie, the capital of Simcoe Co., is delightfully situated fashioQ-|oii the northwest shore of Kempenfeldt Bay of Lake Simcoe. |ngwood. iBesides the county buildings there is a handsome market-house, ;ross tholm Episcopal, Presbyterian, Methodist, and Roman Catholic [ians ittayljhurch ; also, two or three well-kept hotels. The village con- to place.iains about 1,500 inhabitants, being surrounded by a fine agri- ibt beinglmltural country. A stage road runs from Barrie to Penetan- m. kushene, 32 miles ; also, to Orillia, at the foot of the lake. Iver Bomel After leaving Barrie Station, the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron >ties intokailroad runs in a northwest direction to CoUingwood, passing it 84 TORONTO TO COLLI NO WOOD, KTO. 1 1 'iilijfii through a leyel section of country, abounding in lumber of dif- ferent kinds ; there being several large lumber establishments on the line of the road. CoLLiNowooD, 94 miles north from Toronto, is most advanta- geously situated near the head of Nottawassaga Bay, an inden- tation of Georgian Bay. The town, although commenced in 1854, at the time of the completion of the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Railroad, now contains (1857) about 2,000 inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing. The surprising erowth is mainly owing to its being the northern ternunus of the railway which connects the Georgian Bay with Lake Ontario at Toronto. Great numbers of travelers and emigrants are at this point transferred to magnificent steamers, bound for Mackinac, Green Bay, Chicago, and the Great West, as well as to the Saut Ste Marie and Lake Superior. H^re are a long pier, 800 feet in length; a breakwater, and light^house ; several large stores and storehouses; four hotels, and two or three churches ki the course of erection. The steamers leaving Collingwood for MacMnac and Chicago, running along the west shore of Lake Michigan, are of a large class, affording good accommodations for pleabure travelers. A steamer leaves weekly for Green Bay, sometimes proceeding to the Saut Ste Marie and into Lake Superior. The steamer Canadian runs every day to Owen's Sound, 50 miles distant; and the steamer 0hllingwood runs weekly to Bruce Mines and the Saut Ste Marie, affording a delightful steamboat excursion. Immense quantities of fish are t>;Ken in the waters of Notta- wassaga Bay, belnff principally carried to the Toronto market. The whole north shore of the Georgian Bay abounds in white fish, salmon, trout, mc^alonge, and other fish of fine quality, affording profitable employment to the Canadians and Indians. " Some idea of the value and extent of the fishing operation! promiscuously pursued in Nottawassaga Bay may be formed from the knowledge that the average daily take exceeds one thousand fish, weighing from forty pounds down to one pound. At this rate, that of the season would not fall short of £40,000. At the mouth of the Nottawassaga Biver the white fish are netted in perfect shoals throughout the spawning season. Meet of the larger kinds of trout spa^n about the islands, upon beds of calcareous rock, over which a shifting drift of sand or gravel passes by the action of the waves, where the water is shallow; and from being exposed to the sun, the temperature of the lake is warmer at these localities than e&ewhere. Thither the fishermen resort, and net the fijsh, vapid and placid m they are, in fabulous amo'unts.** THE 1 This is a ne citizens of U] Toronto and G the far North long, extendinj the Nottawass ously situated mit is 650 feet succession of 1 the latter desci feet below Lak {Eixtraci " The geogn gards the Atlai each now strivi West (and as it the north), woi all those vast c productions wo their importati The writer i marks, and to < to the British also be pourinj posed canal, adapted to all ceptible of the Lake Superior gree of N. lat.; and character upon this terri Kiver country, country it will In order to giv< perhaps I shoi your attention designated, no< Territories, coi of the Assinibc intersected in this, agam, lie pofdif. ihments .dvanta- 1 inden- snced in icoe and kbitants, I mainly ly which Toronto, lis point 10, Green Saut Ste ) feet in tores and IS in tbe Chicago, if a large e^ers. A ceding to steamer ) distant; lines and xcursion. of Notta- ) market. in white I quality, Indians. >peratioTy! >e formed ceeds one ne pound. ' £40,000. 9 fish are ion. Most upon beds or gravel I shallow; )f the lake lither the| I they are, GEORGIAN BAT CANAL. ^60 THE TOEONTO AND GEORGIAN BAT CANAL. This is a new and noble project, which is now interesting the citizens of Upper Canada, as well as of the United States: Toronto and Oswego being alike interested in connection with the far North and West. The proposed canal will be 80 miles long, extending from Nottawassaga Bay through the valley of the Nottawassaga and Humber rivers to Toronto, advantage- ously situated on the north shore of Lake Ontario. The sum- mit is 650 feet above the waters of Lake Ontario, recjuiiing a succession of locks in the ascent and descent to Georgian Bay, the latter descent being only 310 feet— Lake Ontario lying 340 feet below Lake Huron, or Georgian Bay. {Extract from ths Tobonto Glodb, of Septemlery 1856.) " The geographical position of the projected canal, as it re- gards the Atlantic sea-board and those cities of the United States, each now striving to grasp the trade and traffic of the great West (and as it regards the great West itself, the northwest and the north), would give to the city of Toronto the power to make all those vast countries, in a measure, tributary to her. Their productions would seek the sea-board through your canal, and their importations would likewise pay their tribute in return.*' The writer adds : " He wished only to indulge in a few re- marks, and to call attention, not to the United States alone, but to the British Possessions in America, which ere long would also be pouring its flood of trade and traffic through the pro- posed canal. Westward, we possess vast and fertile countries, adapted to all the pursuits of agricultural life — countries sus- Cdptible of the highest cultivation and improvement. Between Lake Superior and the Lake of the Woods (above the 49th de- gree of N. lat.) we ^ssess a country of this description, in soil and character inferior to no part of Minnesota, and bordering upon this territory lies the valley of the Aecdniboine, or the Red Kiver country, as it is sometimes called. As a wheat-growing country it will rival Canada. It does so now in soil and climate. In order to give you some idea of the extent of that country, or, perhaps I should say, portion of Western Canada, I will call your attention to a few facts. All Canada, as now usually designated, not in connection with what is termed Hudson Bay Territories, contains about 860,000 square miles. The valley of the Assiniboine contains about as many square miles, and is intersected in every direction by navigable rivers. Beyond this, again, lies the miignifioent valley of Uie Saskatchawan. ? ii 8 il i MM m\ 26 GEORGIAN BAT CANAL. It contains about 400,000 square miles, larger again than Canada. '< Over the richest prairie lands, loaded carts now pass in any direction for hundreds of miles, to the foot of the Rocky Moun- tains. In its present wild and uncultivated state it affordg sustenance to immense herds of wild cattle. What would it do if cultivated by the hand of man ? The future products of these immense countries must seek the sea-board, and all the canals and railroads which can be constructed will scarce suflSce to afford facilities for the products of the West. He wished to call their attention also to another source, whence a trade would arise, and contribute to swell the traffic along the canal. Hud son Bay would give to Canada a sea-coast of 3,000 miles. Nof maritime power has ever possessed so great a nursery for a mer cantile navy as this. It abounds wim whales, and every kin(l| of fish ; and, strange as it may appear, that great sea lies, as ii were, in the center of Canada. From the proposed terminus of the canal it is about 650 miles, 350 miles of which is a naviga tion capable of bearing ships of any burden ; from Lake Su rior to Hudson Bay is 300 miles. If the route between Lab Superior and Hudson Bay was open and improved, they wouli speedily establish fisheries along the coasts of that bay. Thi oil and fish now consumed in those states is immense, and the; will be furnished them from Hudson Bay cheaper and mo: speedily than from the source they now receive them. A trad like this will sooner or later spring up, and create along Hud son Bay an immense demand for all those manufactures am productions which the United States can supply, and th must find their way through their canal. A large trade at t moment is had along that bay.* The Hudson Bay Company, who have seven forts there, and one above York Factory, ceive annual supplies to the amount of from £70,000 to £90,000, Many of these goods, perhaps, are of that description whici Toronto merchants could supply with advantage. To the traffii which must exist all along the shores of Lakes Huron and So perior I make no allusion. It is evident to all that it must ' tributary to the canal. It may be said that all that I havi n lluded to as regards the traffic to arise from our country is fi in prospective, but there is no reason why we should not pro gress and advance westward as do the United States." From OniLLii author with his birch canoes dow Georgian Bay, ♦ " The Hudson Bay Company have lone endeavored by rewards m argumonts to excite an exportation of tallow, hides, wool, etc., to £n^ land ; but the bulky nature of the exports, the long and dangerous navij gation to Hudson Bay, and the habits of the half-breed race, who formth mass of the people, and generally prefer chasing the buffalo to asricultu' or regular industry, have rendered their efforts ineffectual.**— -B. Moa OOXXBT Mabtik. lin than BS in any y Moun affordg uld it do i of these le canals Buffice to ed to call ie would 1. Hud- lies. No or a mer very kind lies, as it •minus of a naviga* B,ke Supe- een Lake ley would )ay. The and they and more A trade ong Hud- tures am and thes< Company ustory, n > £90,000, TRIP FROM ORILLIA TO GEORGIAN MY. Extract from the Canadian Toubibt. From Orillia, situated near the foot of Lake Simcoe, the author with his companions, four in number, passed in two birch canoes down the Severn, a distance of about 60 miles, to Georgian Bay, and thence to Collingwood by steamer. The river is navigable only for canoes, and, except by sportsmen, is as yet rarely visited. " In our eyes, its solitary character and the romantic scenery on its banks were its principal attractions. Having reduced our luggage to the smallest possible dimensions, and put our fishing-tackle into good order, it only remained for us to make ourselves comfortable by spreading a quantitv of plucked fern and juniper branches at the bottom of our canoes. We re- reclined sumptuously in one, with about as much accommoda- tion as a ship's hammock would afford two moderately stout individuals. However, as we were less likely to be upset by being so closely jammed together that we could scarcely move, we became reconciled to our position between Bonaquum ('Thunderbolt'), who knelt at the bows and paddled, and his brother Kabeshquum (* Triumphant*), who steered. The other ide at tliif canoe contained Captain A , whose experience in such expe- ditions, and knoMedge of Indian character and language, were most valuable— and Babehwum (* Snow-Storm*), whose son, as an exemplification of the effect of civilization over the elements. ion whicl called himself simply John Stornr. As the wind was fair, we the traffic Hgged our blankets upon sticks cut for the purpose ; and, with n and Sn all sail set, we glided rapidly on (through the lovely waters of it must b( Lake Couchiching), sometimes threading our way through nar- lat I hav( row channels, past low- wooded islands, imtil in about two hours ntry is fai we found ourselves upon the green waters of the Severn. 1 not pro " The scenery at the point of debouchure was very beautiful. Masses of rich variegated foliage clothed the banks, and bent over until the river rippled among the leaves. ften dark shadows reached across it, or were checkered by sunbeams glancing through the branches upon the clear and singularly light- colored water. As we proceeded, we exchanged for the calm surface of the lake, and the islands which seemed to rest on its bosom, rock and rapid, until at last the torrent became too tumultuous for our frail canoes. Meantime, we had not been engaged only in enjoying the beauties of nature, we had ■owards aD<| (tc, to En^ l^eroQS M^ij r ho form t"" » agricult »— B. MM 28 ORILLIA TO GEORGIAN BAT. Ill KiH adopted the usual mode of trolling in thia part of the world, with copper spoons, which, twisting rapidly through the water, formed a bright and attractive bait; so that, upon arriving at the first portage, we congratulated ourselves upon the prospect of lunching off half-a-dozen black bass weighing from two to five pounds each ; while the Indians were engaged in culinary preparations. " We were up before daylight on the following morning, and, after a good &h breakfast, were again on our way. I had scarcely thrown my trolling-line, when it was nearly jerked out of my hand by a most unexpected and violent tug. A bark canoe is not the most convenient place from which to play a largo fish ; and, in my inexperienced eagerness, I hauled away pretty steadily, bringing to the surface with some difficulty a fine maskalonge, weighing at least twenty-five pounds. He came c^lashing and plunging up to the side of the canoe, and I had lifted him out of water, when the hook gave way, and I lost as fine a fish as I ever had at the end of a line. However, I was consoled soon after by taking some fine pickerel, weigh- ing from five to eight pounds each; and, before luncheon, hooked another maskalonge, when my companion, profiting by experience, was ready with his gaff-hook, and jerked him most scientifically into the canoe, much to the delight of the Indians. Though not so large as the first, he was a respectable fish, weighing about eighteen pounds. The scenery in the place was bold and rocky, the banks often lofty and precipitous., and the current always strong, with an occasional rapid. We lunched at a portage, which we were oMiged to make in order to avoid the falls of the Severn, which are here about twenty- five feet in height, and surrounded by fine scenery. There are rapids above and below the falls, so that the difference of level between the upper and lower banks of the portage is not less than fifty feet." We regret that we can not make room for more extractis from these interesting " Notes on Canada and the Northwest States," but we do the next best thing by recommending the articles themselves to the perusal of our readers. The above trip affords a favorable opportunity to visit Pene- tanguishene and the *' Million Islands" of Georgian Bay. ^ Penetanguishene, C. W., 60 miles north of CoUingwood by steamboat route, situated on a lovely and secure bay, is an old and very important settlement, comprising an Episcopal and Roman Catholic church, two hotels, a custom-house, seve- ORILLIA TO GEOPGIAN BAY. 29 ral stores and storehonses, and has alout 500 inhabitants. In the immediate vicinity is a naval and military depot and bar- racks, established by the British g-overnuient. The natural beauties of the bay and harbor, combined wi^h the picturesque scenery of the shores, make up a picture of rare beauty. Here may be seen the native Indian, the half-breed, and the Canadian voyageur, with the full-blooded Englishman or Scotchman, forming one community. This place, being near the mouth of the river Severn, and contiguous to the numberless islands of Georgian Bay, is no doubt destined to become a favorite resort for the angler and sportsman, aa well as the invalid and seeker of pleasure. Christian Island, lying altout 25 miles from Penetangui- shene, and 25 miles N. E. of Cape Rich, is a large and fertile island, which was early settled by the Jesuits. There are sev- ieral others passed north of Christian Island, of great > auty, while still farther northwest are encountered innumerable islands and islets, forming labyrinths, and secluded passages and coves as yet almost unknown to the white man, extending westward for upward of one hundred miles. ts from bates," i.rticlf5S Pene- ngwood y, is an Mscopal e, seve- ISLANDS ON NORTH SHOEE, GEORGIAN BAY. Extract from Letters from the Korth and Lake Huron. Shb-ba-wa-nah-nino, Georqtan Bat, C. W., I Augmt 16, 1856. f " Among the regions of the continent interesting to the [traveler, and which are not frequently visited, is the north iBhore of Georgian Bay. Leaving Penetanguishene we crossed |to the mouth of the river Mushkoss, a distance of about eighteen liles. From this place we proceeded up the shore in a small |l)oat, making daily such journeys as suited, and lingering when- ever we found an interest to repay. " The Mushkoss is one of the lumber points on the bay. It [s approached through a strip of numerous islands seven miles width, and it is the first inhabited place on the shore above (he mouth of the Severn. Here, as at the Severn, the only img to attract a habitation is the lumber, which only receives attention. But one almost wonders, when he sees the country. 30 ORILLIA TO GEORGIAN BAY. where the lumber comes from, for the rock here again appears, and holds a dominion forever beyond the hopes of man to see subdued. The rock is throughout the country. It stands boldly along the shore, and forms the islands, sustains the water, and its bare surface appears everywhere. Yet the country has a vegetation which covers it with verdure. Bushes, wild flowers, and pine spring up everywhere, where a little earth has drifted and found a lodgment. Pine is almost the only timber, and we daily saw it growing in places so barren, that i*, seemed as if no vegetation could be sustained either in nutrition or uprightness of position. Some dwarfed oaks may be seen, and, perhaps, occasionally some birch. The pine which is sawed into lumber is cut a distance back, along the banks of the river, and is then drifted down. It is inferior in size to that of more southern regions, and, we believe, by no means has so good an average soundness of quality. " The Mushkoss is a stream of moderate size, but sends a large division to the bay, to the westward, which diverges many miles above. The river, in the interior country, expands into lakes or pools, some of which are large and filled with numer- ous islands. This, with a dark-colored water, is characteristic of many of the streams which come down from the north. Even small streams sometimes form a small chain of numerous lakes, extending a great distance back. It is up these streams and around these lakes that many of the Indians find their hunting-grounds for the winter ; sometimes going almost to the divide, beyond which the waters flow into Hudson Bay. They ffo in the fall, and return in the spring with furs, which fall into the hands of the Hudson Bay Company, or those of the various traders along the coast, and are paid for in goods at a large profit. ** Proceeding westward the traveler encounters a maze of innumerable islands, which commences at the eastern extremity of the bay, and continues in an almost unbroken stretch for one hundred miles and upward. There are myriads of them, and we have counted over fifty from a single stand-point. They are mostly small, although some of them are of large size. One may wander industriously amid them for months, and find new scenes to gladden his eyes every day, for the chain has a breadth | of many miles. Countless channels run between them, many of which are sufficiently deep and clear for the largest vesseU | of the lakes. There are numerous small bays, and the chan- nels sometimes haVfe a considerable width ; and, now and then, I one runs a distance of ten and twenty miles with scarcely an interruption. It is almost impossible to tell when you approach the mainland. One may think himself upon it when he ia mileii away, or may pursue some lagoon projecting deep into it, whenj OKTLLIA TO GEORGIAN BAT. 81 ppears, to see boldly er, and has a lowers, drifted and we as if no ghtness )erhaps, lumber is then outhern average sends a es many nds into numer- Lcteristic e north, lumerous i streams nd their 3st to the 7, They hich fall 36 of the oods at a maze of )xtremity ih for one hem, and They are ize. One L find new a breadth jm, many jst vessels | the chan- and then,! larcely an approach 18 is miles I it, when I he supposes himself treading on an island channel, and at last be obliged to return. " One is earnestly told before he starts, by those who have been on this shore, that if he would take his course throueh the islands, he must have a guide ; and certainly without, &e sti-anger can not be sure of great expedition. We were for- tunate enough to have Bayfield's chart along, which we found a great help, although no attempt is, or could successfully be, made to chart in detail the interminable labyrinth of isl nds. '* The better way for one coasting thus is to take a course through the outer edge of the islands, keeping the broad waters in view. A certain guide and a cool, bracing atmosphere are thus obtained, while the splendor of its scenery is almost un- rivaled. Along the islands and next to th« bay are numerous and wide shoals. The rock floor, sometimes level and again broken, can often be seen through the clear water for a long distance. To the west the islands grow less numerous and the water between them wider, until you approach She-ba-wa-nah- ning, when the chain draws to a close. Islands after this are numerous, but may mostly be traced upon the chart. Tho islands have the same vegetation and the same physical con- formation as the mainland. " The course of the shore seems much nearer north and west, until you arrive at the French River, when it runs nearly west. The rock is continuous the whole distance. It is chiefly gran- ite, but sandstone appears in considerable quantity this side of the French River. The rock attains at times considerable height and boldness, and as you near She-ba-wa-nah-ning, it sometimes rises into grandeur. Here a mountain chain hangs along the coast, standing up against the sky like a large blue cloud. Between this and the water are a few acres of tillable land, yet none is under cultivation save a very little which is mowed, indeed, farming is a business which is not thought of on the north side Georgian Bay, even by the few white inhabitants scat- tered there. There may be a patch of a few acres now and then along the shore which might be cultivated, but we saw scarcely any. But there are probably some sections where a little may be found, for the Indians find somewhere here the maple for the manufacture of sugar. They told us that it is near the mouth of French River, on the east side, and that they there raise some potatoes and corn. But we believe that the shore can never be even sparingly settled. At some points there may be tillable lands a considerable distance back. Yet there are no indications of it along the shore. A large grant of land, we are informed, bars been obtained to construct a rail- road from the Ottawa to some point near the mouth of the French River on the bay 32 COLLINaWOOD TO THE SAUT STB MARIE. ,(! M '* The timber observed as far as Sbe-ba-wa-nah-ning is almost entirely pine. One is almost surprised at the constancy of it. Some spruce, tamarao, birch, and poplar are seen, howeyer, and probably cedar may be found also The juniper shrub is abundant, and often very productive. There are exhaustless quantities of whortleberries, and as fine as the world anywhere produces. We hardly landed at a place where they were not plenty. Wild, red cherries, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, blackberries, and cranberries are frequently met with in con- siderable quantities. Such is the general character of the north shore, and the islands of Georgian Bay and their pro- ductions, up to She-ba-wa-nah-ning, which is situated nearly mid-way on the northern shore of the waters of Lake Huron." ii, .-■.,1 I .Til ■■'IP iiii ««!' TRIP FROM COLLIiXGWOOD TO THE SAUT STE MARIE, THEOUGH GEORGIAN BAY AND NOETH CHANNEL. This is a new and highly interesting steamboat excursion, brought into notice by the completion of the Ontario t Simcoe and Huron Railroad j extending from Toronto to CoUingwood, at the southern extremity of Georgian Bay, NoTTAWAssAOA Bait, the southern termination of Georgian Bay, is a large expanse of water bounded by Cape Rich on the west and Christian Island on the east, each being distant about 30 miles from Collingwood. At the south end of the bay lies a small group of islands called the Hen and Chickens. On leaying Collingwood for Bruce Mines and the Saut Ste Marie, the steamer usually runs direct across Georgian Bay io Lonely Island, passing Cabot's Head to the right, and the pas- sage leading into the broad waters of Lake Huron, which is the route pursued by the steamers in the Toyage to Mackinac, Green Bay, and Chicago. During the summer months the trip from Collingwood to Mackinac and Chicago affords a de- lightful excursion. Owen's Sound, or Sydenham, 50 miles west of Collingwood, although off the direct route to the Saut Ste Marie, is well worthy of a passing notice. Here is a thriving settlement, surrounded by a fertile section of country, and containing about 2,500 inhabitants. A steamer runs daily from Collingwood to this place, which will, no doubt, soon be reached by railroad. Lonely Island, situated about 100 miles west of Colling- wood and 20 miles east of the Great Manitoulin Islands, is a largo body of land mostly covered with a dense forest, and un- inhabited, except by a few fishermen, who resort here at cer- tain seasons of the year for the purpose of taking fish of different kinds. The steamer usually passes this island on its north side, steering for Cape Smyth, a bold promontory jutting 34 COLLINOWOOD TO 8AUT STB MARIE. CO oat from the Great Manitoulin, and distant from Lonely Island about 25 miles. Squaw Island and Papoose Island are seen on the north- east, while farther inland are the Fox Islands^ being the com- mencement on the west of the innumerable islands which abound along the north shore of Georgian Bay. La Cloche Mountains, rising about 2,000 feet above the sea, are next seen in the distance, toward the north ; these, combined with the wild scenery of the islands and headlands, form a grand panoramic view, enjoyed from the deck of the passing steamer. Smyth's Bay is passed on the west, some eight or ten miles distant. At the head of this bay, on the Great Manitoulin Is- land, is situated a village of Indians, and a Jesuit^s mission, called We-qua-me-kong. These aborigines are noted for their industry, raising wheat, corn, oats, and potatoes in large quan- tities. This part of the island is very fertile, and the climate is healthy. She-ba-wa-nah-ning, signifying, in the Indian dialect, " Here is a channel,^* is a most charming spot, 40 miles dis- tant from Lonely Island, hemmed in by mountains on the north, and a high rocky island on the south. It is situated on the north side of a narrow channel, about half a mile in length, which has a great depth of water. Here is a convenient steam- boat landing, a church, a store, aud some ten or twelve dwel- lings, inhabited by Canadians and half-breeds. Indians as- semble here often in considerable numbers, to sell their fish and furs, presenting with their canoes and dogs a very gro- tesque appearance. One resident at this landing usually attracts much attention — a noble dog, of the color of cream. No sooner does the steamer's bell ring, than this animal rushes to the wharf, sometimes assisting to secure the rope that is thrown ashore; the next move he makes is to board the vessel, as though he was a custom-house officer; but on one ocuasion, in his eager- ness to get into the kitchen, he fell overboard ; nothing daunted, he swam to the shore, and then again boarding the Tessei, suc- ceeded in his which prompts On leaving a most beauti mountains upi and sterile ap; the view — thei latter lying off the Great Man Man-i-tou- nah-ning, is ] Sound. It is agency, being Indian annuiti Little Cui another interee itoulin, opposit narrow, with a knots an hour, stops at this la of wood, it l?e breed, who res often seen here be indolent ai of the soil for ing, although ferently cultiv Clapper TO are passed in \ about 120 mile situated a po; seen from the Co^KBURN durectly west o by a narrow c bat uninhabiti COLLINQWOOD TO 8AUT RTB MARIE. 35 ceeded in his dcsiro to fill his stomaeh, showing the instinct which prompts many a bipod office-seeker. On leaving Shc-ba-wa-nah ning and procecdin^r westward, a most beautiful bay is pas)«ed, studded with i:jlands — and mountains upward of 1,000 feet in hei^hl, presenting a rocky and sterile appearance, forming an appropriate background to the view — thence is passed Ba^lijley and Jleywood islands, the latter lying off Hey wood Sound, situated on the north side of the Great Manitoulln. Man-i-tou-wah-ning, 25 miles northwest of ' She-ba-wa- nah-ning, is handsomely situated at the head of Heywood Sound. It is an Indian settlement, and also a government agency, being the place annually selected to distribute the Indian annuities. Little Current, 25 miles west of She-ba-wa-nah-ning, is another interesting landing on the north shore of the Great Man- itoulin, opposite La Cloche Island. Here the main channel is narrow, with a current usually running at the rate of five or six knots an hour, being much affected by the winds. The steamer stops at this landing for an hour or upward, receiving a supply of wood, it l^eing furnished by an intelligent Indian or half- breed, who resides at this place with his family. Indians are often seen here in considerable numbers. They are reported to be indolent and harmless, too often neglecting the cultivation of the soil for the more uncertain pursuits of finhing and hunt- ing, although a considerable large clearing is to be seen indif- ferently cultivated. Clapper TON Island and other islands of less magnitude are passed in *.he JVorth Channel ^ which is a ^arge body of water about 120 miles long and 25 miles wide. On the north shore is situated a post of the Hudson Bay Company, which may be seen from the deck of the passing steamer. Co'^KBURN Island, 85 miles west of Little Current, lies dbrectly west of the Great Manitoulin, from which it is s^aratec^ by a narrow channel. It is a large island, somewhat elevated, hat uninhabited, except by IndiaDS. ^ 36 COLLINOWOOD TO BAUT 8TX MARIS. Drummond Tsland, 15 miles farther westward, belongs to the United States, being attached to the State of Michigan This is another large body of land, being low, and as yet mostly uninhabited. The next island approached before landing at Bruce Mines \a St. Joseph Island, leing a large and fertile body of land, with some few settlers. Bruce Mines Village, C W., is situated on the north shore of Lake Huron, or the " North Channel,'* as it is here called, distant 290 miles from CoUingwood, and 60 from the Saut Ste Marie. Here are a Methodist chapel, a public-house, and a store and storehouse belonging to the Montreal Copper Mining Company, besides extensive buildings used for crushing ore and preparing it for the market ; about 75 dwellings and 600 inhabitants. The copper ore, after being crushed by power- ful machinery propelled by steam, is put into puddling troughs and washed . by water, so as to obtain about 20 per cent, pure copper. In this state it is shipped to the United States and England, bringing about $80 per ton. It then has to go througb an ext^isive smelting process, in order to obtain the pure metal The mines are situated in the immediate yicinity of the Tillage, | there being ten openings or shafts from which the ore is ob* i tained in its crude state. Horse-power is mostly used to ele- vate the ore ; the whims are above ground, attached to which are ropes and buckets. This mine gives employment to abont 300 workmen. The capital stock of the company amounts to| $600,000. The Wellington Mine^ about one mile distant, is also owned] by the Montreal Mining Company, but is leased and worked by an English company. This mine, at the present time, is morej productive than the Bruce Mines. The Lake Superior Journal gives the following description! of the Bruce Mine, from which is produced a copper ore differ* ing from that which is yielded by other mines of that peninsukl '* Ten years ago this mine was opened, and large sums ex'j pended for machinery, which proved useless, but it is now ufi'l (ler now ma shafts have some 8.30 fe the Kuropeo the eye, res shaft, they i where they i only a fine p where they i is Wftshod a^ shipment, ha It is now m Two years si] fiilo to be smi COLLINOWOOD TO SALT 8TE MARIE. 37 mgfl to chigan mostly klines is }f land, ,e north ; is here rom the ic-house, il Copper crushing lings and t)y power- g troughs jent. pure tates and through j ure metal- he Tillage, I ore is oh* Bed to ele- i to 'which Lt to about I imonnts to I also owned -worked hjl ne, is more descriptioB| ore difftf* der now management, and promises to yield profitably. Twolye shafts have been openeil, one of which has been carried down 8omo 3J30 feet. Some 200 or 300 men are employe.nt D'Ourb is an island passed on the left, lying contiguous to St. Joseph Island. Here are encountered several small rocky islands, forming an intricate channel called the- " JVarrows." On some of the islands in this group are found^ copper ore, and beautiful specimens of moss. The forest trees, however, are of a dwarfish growth, owing, no doubt, to the* scantiness of soil on these rocky islands. About 10 miles west of the " Narrows," the main channel of the St. Mary's River is reached, forming the boundary between* the United States and Canada. A rocky island lies on the Ca- nadian side, which is reserved for government pui;poses, as it commands the main or ship channel. Sugar Island is now reached, which belongs to the United States, and the steamers run a further distance of 25 miles, when the landing at the Saut Ste Marie is reached, there being- settlements on both sides of the river. The British boats usu- ally land on the north side, while the American boats make a I landing on the south side of the river, near the mouth of the^ I Bhip canal. ^ Bums ex'l ; iB now HB*! ^ I to ' !fii I m II. :,:ii»: r>8 COLLINOWOOD TO 8AUT STE MARIK. TEIP THROUGH GEORGIAN BAY AND THE NORTH CHANNEL OF LAKE HURON TO MANITOULIN AND BAUT STE MARIE. {Copied from a Toronto paper.) Dated on board the Steamer Collingwood, | Lake Hubon, August 17, 1856. ( " A LONG, dark tongue of land stretches out into the lake on our larboard quarter, and the opposite y'leyr is backed by a rugged coast, with mountains tall and grim. We are just off Cabot's Head, near where the Georgian Bay attains its g,ieatest width (68 miles). The east coast of the Georgian Bay, as de- scribed by Mr. Murray, consists almost exclusively of a sterile rocky border. There are numerous harbors, many of which are, however, so hemmed in by reefs and sunken islets as to I render them almost inaccessible to boats of any considerable draught. As we advance toward the north mainland past Lonely Island, the eastern extremity of the Great Manitoulin comes clearly within view. An abrupt escarpment here forms Cape Smyth, and inside a deep sheltered bend, called Smyth's Bay, is located the Jesuit Missionary village of Wequamc- kong. This neat little settlement being situated on a slope sur- rounded by extensive clearances, a.nd covered with regularly- built frame houses, shows out favorably to the passer-by. Due north lies our first stopping-place. The distance from CoUingwood to the head of the Georgian Bay is about 140 miles, and the point of measurement is a small trading port named She-ba-wa-nah-ning, which was reached early on the forenoon of Thursday. The entrance to it is by a strait so narrow as to be quite imperceptible at any considerable distance from shore, bounded on the east side by the mainland, and on the west by a high island. It forms a secure harbor at all times, and oi?»ing to the great depth of water and the steepness of both sides, it is not so difficult to pass, even in stormy weather, as one would suppose. This village, now for some unaccountable reason styled * Killarney,' with the exception of a store, post-office, and diminutive Roman Catholic church, is a mere collection of fishing huts and Indian camps. It derives its original name, as indeed do most of these Indian localities —from a natural characteristic. That name signifies * Here's a channel^' and it amounts to a piece of great impertinence on the part of any one to destroy its adaptability by substituting Killarney, or any other, for it. The population numbers somewhere about 40 whites and half-breedj^ with an occasional accession to the Indian residents, bringing it to an average between 60 and 70. They employ themselves almost entirely in the pursuits o^' trad- ing, hunting, and fishing, but make no attempt at cultivation, not even sc tolerably g« an odd visit the Church which occai horn instead of those lov< northern cc bling the fai and closing which here steamer doe; the island, : back throu^ entered fron to have threi the enchant] side adds del of this islar steamer her miles. At t] Grand Man: to find a hosi of trumpery annually ai marvelous si Father," wh| no wharf, br steamboat si] is laid from altogether ii Indian Resej the market descriptive For such pu| the * small- barkation ol heterogeneoi "The bell Fitzwilliam,) of this gro( l^arrie and The La Clocl included inf guished by a portion of) Manitoulin,f OOLl.lSOWUOD TO SAUT 8TE MARIE. 39 not even so much ns a cabbage-garden, althougb there is some tolerably good land in the vicinity. Now and again they have an odrt Bnice. ' %.: ♦< ■ W J i' nl 44 COL..ISOW00U TO S^OT 8TE MAB.K. .. WUH re.a.a *o the capa^''^^- ""^^t t'afS^^^ l''*'^^' Te harve^ commences about he mddle of^^J ^^^^ crops. . The "^T^ of toe fish » ]„„?,, the following pla^ea Tenby Bay j;^h ^ ^ th very abundant,) tl.e mi**?., f„kTa"3, pike, »»>! /''^Jr^iery^ andiuM«d Joseph, ^f^^rtd there is a hernng Bf «'? \ American Opposite Sugar "l^na i ^^ Matelote, on the A **rKke freezes over geueraUy » t^«^ ,^^ ^,,u.jA ojnd the snow uc r -^^j^e of April ; «s/^*^^ Jf . \uq lowest of P3cember to *f.^'^l.eatest about four feet, ino COLLTNGV/OOD TO 8AUT STE M\RIK. 45 nent, —the idows L corn, prov- let foT whicli I Amer- Lut Ste Saut Stk Marie, capital of Chippewa Co., Mich., is advan- tageously situated on St. Mary's River, or Strait, 350 miles N.N.W. of Detroit, and 15 miles from the foot of Lake Supe- rior, in N. lat. 4G° ST. The rapids at this place, giving the name to the settlements on both sides of the river, have a descent of 20 feet, within the distance of a mile, and form the natural limit of navigation. The Ship Canal, however, which has recently been constructed on the American side, i obviate ,*s this difficulty. Steamers of a large class now pass throu£;h the locks into Lake Superior, greatly facilitating trade and commerce. The village on the American side is pleasantly situated near the foot of the rapids, and contains a court-house and jail ; a Baptist, a Methodist, and a Roman Catholic church ; 15 or 20 stores and storehouses, besides a few manufacturing lestablishments, and about 1 ,000 inhabitants. Many of the in- middle BW days ure any August, ^und the rollow'ng ely after , or St. ^^ Mud f^bi^^ants and Indians in the vicinity are engaged in the fur American Itrade and fisheries, the latter being an important and profit- ble occupation. Summer visitors flock to this place and the ake Superior co\intry for health and pleasure. There are two otels on the American side, and one on the Canadian side of e river, affording good accommodations. Fort Brady is in old and important United States military it contiguous to this frontier -village, where is stationed a )th is fromBegular garrison of troops. It commands the St. Mary's River The lowe ■ ^ tjjQ approach to the mouth of the canal. ^ coWB Saut Ste Marie, C. W., is a scattered settlement, where is ated a part of the Hudson Bay Company. Here is a steam- at landing, an hotel, and two or three stores, including the udson Bay Company's; and it has from 200 to 300 inhabit- ts. Indians of the Chippewa tribe reside in the vicinity in nsiderable numbers, they having the exclusive right to take it in the waters contiguous to the rapids. They also employ emselves in running the rapids in their frail canoes, when ired by citizens or strangers — this being one of the most ilarating enjoyments for those fond of aquatic sports. (See graving.) des these in all the to the in- id a num- etc. ile of Be- , 1st May; the middle verage , July, an< zero; a^^r lands I of Cana^ I» II! *i i i ■:l m l^i 1 48 ST. MARY 8 FALLS SHIP CANAL. Company and issued pn 'ents for the 750,000 acres of land. This was all the remuneration the company received for the work. The lands were selected during the building of the canal by ag( nts appointed by the Governor of Michigan. Of the 750,000 acres, 39,000 acres were selected in the iron region of Lake Superior, 147,000 acres in the copper region, and the balance, 504,000 acres, in the Lower Peninsula. The following figures will give some idea of the magnitude of this work: Length of canal 6,584 feet, ^^ 1 mile 304 feet. Width at top 115 feet — at water-line 100 feet — at bottom C4 feet. The depth of the canal is 1 2 feet. A slope wall on the sides of the canal is 4,000 feet in length. There are two locks, each 350 feet in length. Width of locks 70 feet at top— 61 J feet at bottom. The walls are 25 feet high — 10 feet thick at bott? i. Lift of upper lock 8 feet — lower do., 10 feetj total lockage | 18 feet. Lower wharf 180 feet long, 20 feet wide. Upper wharf 830 feet long, from 16 to 30 feet wide. There are three pairs of folding gates, each 40 feet wide. Upper gate 17 feet high— lower gate 24 feet 6 inches high. There are also upper and lower caisson gates, used for shutting { off the water from the canal. The amount of lumber, timber, and iron used in the buildingj of the piers and gates is enormous. There were 103, 437 lbs of wrought iron used in the gates, and] 88,000 lbs cast iron. About 8,000 feet of oak timber, etc. The tolls on the canal are collected by the State— are merely! nominal — and only intended to defray the necessary expensefj of repairs. ' THK UPPKK LAKE COUNTRY. THE UPPER LAKE COUNTRY. 49 bottom 64 iwide. les high, br shutting I he building gates, and -are merely ry expenseB We copy the following extract from an address published in the Lansing (Mich.) Republican, as containing interesting in- formation regarding the Commerce of the Upper Lakes : C. T. Harvey, Esq., of Lake Superior, agreeably to appoint- ment, made an address in the Hall of the House of Represent- atives on the subject of the *• present state and future prospects of the Commerce of Lake Superior." " As to the past, he observed that in 1839 the lirg' steamer visited the Saut Ste Marie, to the great ^astonishment of the Indians who lived on St. Mary's River. That in 1841 Capt. I Ward first established a regular steamboat line from Detroit to the entrance of Lake Superior via Mackinac. That in 1849 Mr. S. McKnight (a member of the house) did all the trans- portation ol merchandise aroiund the Falls of St. Mary*s with one or two horses, and it wos not till 1851 that the first steamer [floated on the waters of Lake Superior only six years ago. '• After some further reminiscences showing at how very re- Iccnt a date business in that q^iarter had commenced, the speaker (proceeded to the present. " He referred t now lingers, but, alas ! is fast fading away. It is proposed to construct a railroad running from Detroit I or Saginaw to Old Fort Mackinac, which, when completed, -will tend to open the whole northern portion of this part of the State of Michigan, one of the most favorably situated States of the whole Un ral productic qiLintitics of Iji this gret a»x)iit 180 mil nc-is and its a Lake Huron i the voyage wil Mackinac, any other locf turesque beau Hore the invali man and angl during warm v On leaving I runs a west coi islands in Lake Bay, about 150 SU.AIAIER Isi lies on the sout charming view Potawatom small islands, i head of the baj Grken Bay wide, is a sple: enlivened with to bo saen a S3V3ral importi of which is Nee| of Winnebago between the s( into the bay opi The town of Ifiaely situated entrance into COLLINOWOOD TO MACKINAC, ETC. 51 the whole Union ; having two peninsulas, rich in soil and mine- ral productions, and from which are now exported immense quantities of lumber, copper, and iron ore. In this great commercial route Lake Huron is traversed for about 180 miles, often affording the traveler a taste of sea-sick- ness and its consequent evils. Yet there often are times when Lake Huron is hardly ruffled, and the timid ■ -^ngcr enjoys the voyage with as much zest as the more exp« .i' rrjed mariner. Mackinac, the gem of the Upper Lake islun a, may vie with any other locality for the salubrity of its climate, for its pic- turesque beauties, and for its vicinity to fine fisliing-grounds. Hare the invalid, the seeker of pleasure, as well as the sports- man and angler, can find enjoyment to their heart's cout.'ut durin;; warm weather. For further dasoription see page 110. On leaving Mackinac for Green Bay the steamer generally runs a west course for the mouth of the bay, passing several islands in Lake Michigan before entering the waters of Green Bay, about 150 miles distant. Su-AiMKR Island lies on the north side and Rock Island lies on the south side of the entrance to Green Bay, forming a charming view from the deck of the steamer. POTAWATOMEE IsLAND, CHAMBERS* IsLAND, and OtllCr small islands, are next passed on the upward trip toward tho I head of the bay. Grken Bay, about 100 miles long and from 20 to 30 miles j wide, is a splendid sheet of water, destined no doubt to be enlivened with commerce and pleasure excursions. Here are to be seen a number of picturesque islands and headlands. Sjvoral important streams enter into Green Bay, the largest of which is Neenah or Fox River, at its head, ar>d is the outlet of Winnebago Lake. Mcnomonce River forms the boundary between the States of Wisconsin and Michigan, and empties |iiito the bay opposite Green Island. The town of GreexV Bay, the capital of Brown Co., Wis., is [finely situated near the mouth of Foi or Neenah River, at its laitrancc into Green Bay, where is a good and secure harbor. ^mmmmmmi\m- i i w. 52 COLLINOWOOD TO MACKINAC, ETC. It lies 25 miles due west of Kewaunee, on the west sbore of Lake Michigan, and 115 miles north from Milwaukee. The town is handsomely situated, and contains many large ware- houses and elegant residences, together with several churches, hotels, and stores of different kinds, and about 8,000 inhab' ita)its. The improvement of Fox River by dams and locks, in Connection with the improvements on the Wisconsin River, afford an uninterrupted steam navigation from Green Bay to Prairie du Chien, on the Mississippi River — thus making Green Bay a great point for the trans-shipment of goods and produce of every variety ; the largest class steamers running to Chicago on the south, Saut Ste Marie on the north, as well as to Colling. wood, to Detroit, and to Buffalo on the east. The lumber trade of Green Biy is immense, this whole section of country abound- ing in timber of different kinds the most useful for building purposes. AsTOR is the name of a suburb of Green Bay, lying at the mouth of Fox River, while on the opposite side of the stream stands Fort Howard^ surrounded by a village of the same name. Nenomonee City, Oconto Co., Wis., is a new settlement,! situated on the west side of Green Bay, near the mouth of Ne- nomonee River. The country to the west and north of tfiis place is as yet a wilderness, inhabited only by a few roving | Indians. In regard to the route from Green Bay to Lake Superior, the| Advoeace says : '• A road from Green Bay to the most southerly point of Kee- wenaw would be less than 200 miles in length, and while it would shorten the travel over the present route (by water) at| loast 100 miles, would open one of the most beautiful and fer- tile sections in the Union— a section which will remain unknown I and unoccupied until such a road is opened by the governiiient.f The Lake Superior people need it most especially for procuringj supplies, driving cattle, etc. *' The traveler finds the whole distance, to within a few miieij of Lake Superior, abounding in every resource which will make] a country wealthy and prosperous. Clear, beautiful lake.^m3 not unreasonable to suppose that a fashionable hotel may yet be ^ilt under the shade of the pine groves near the Chapel, and a trip tither become as common as one to Niagara now is.** ti^- 60 LAKE SUPERIOR. If n <. I 1 :^l l» 'I?' pR hension, and induce him to ply a vigorous oar until the dreaded wall was passed. But in the Pictured Rocks there are two features which communicate to the scenery a wonderful and almost unique character. These are, first, the curious manner in which the cliflFs have been excavated and worn away by the action of the lake, which for centuries has dashed an ocean- like surf against their base : and, second, the equally curious manner in which large portions of the surface have been colored by bands of brilliant hues. *' It is from the latter circumstance that the name by which these cliffs are known to *he American traveler is derived; while that applied to them by the French voyageurs (* Les Portails'*) is derived from the former, and by far the most striking peculiarity. *' The term Pictured Rocks has been in use for a great length of time, but when it was first applied we have been unable to discover. •* The Indian name applied to thes": cliffs, according to our voyageurSf is Schkuee-archibi-kung or "The end of the rocks," which seems to refer to the fact that, in descending the lake, after having passed them, no more rocks are seen along the shore. Our voyageurs had many legends to relate of the pranks of the Menni-boujou in these caverns, and in answer to our inquiries seemed disposed to fabricate stories without end of the achievements of this Indian deity. " We will describe the most interesting points in the series, proceeding from west to east. On leaving Grand Island harbor,! * Le Portail is a French term, signifying the principal entrance of a church or a portal, and this name was given to the Pictured Bocks by the voyageurs evidently in allusion to the arched entrances which con- stitute the most characteristic feature. Le Grand Portail is the great archway, or grand portal. t The traveler desirous of visiting this scene should take advantage of one of the steamers or propellers which navigate the lake and land at Grand Island, from which he can proceed to make the tour of the inter- esting points in a small boat. The large vessels on the lake do not ap- proach suflBcicntly near the cliifs to allow the traveler to gather more than a general idea of their position and outlines. To be able to appreciate and understand their extraordinary character, it is indispensable to coast along in close proximity to th&'Cliffs and pass beneath the Grand Portal, wliicii is only accessible from the lake, and to laud and enter within the precincts of the Chapel. At Grand Island, boats, men, and provisions may be procured. The traveler should lay in a good supply, if it is in- tended to be absent long enough to make a thorough examination of the whole series. In fl&ct, an old voyager will not readily trust himself to the mercy of the winds and waves of the lake without them, as he may not unfrequently, however auspicious the weather when starting, And himself weather>bound for Jays together. It is possible, however, In one day, lo start ft'om Grand Island, see the most interesting points and return. Tlie distance flrom William's to the Chapel— the farthest point of interestr-is about fifteen miles. LAKE SUPERIOR. 61 rh cliffs are seen to the east, which form the commence- init of the series of rocky promontories, which rise vertically froA the water to the height of from one hundred to one hun- dret find twenty -five feet, covered with a dense canopy of foli- age. I Occasionally a small cascade may be seen falling from the /erge to tlie base in an unbroken curve, or gliding down th/inclined face of the cliff in a sheet of white foam. The ^ks at this point begin to assume fantastic shapes ; but it is not until having reached Miners* River that their striking peculiarities are observed. Here the coast makes an abrupt turn to the eastward, and just at the point where the rocks break off and the friendly sand-beach begins, is seen one of the grandest works of nature in her rock-built architecture. We gave it the name of *' Miners' Castle," from its singular resem- blance to the turreted entrance and arched porial of some old castle — for instance, that of Dumbarton. The height of the ad- vancing mass, in which the form of the Gothic gateway may be recognized, is about seventy feet, while that of the main wall forming the background is about one hundred and forty. The appearance of the openings at the base changes rapidly with each change in the position of the spectator. On taking a posi- tion a little farther to the right of that occupied by the sketcher, the central opening appears more distinctly flanked on either side by two lateral passages, making the resemblance to an artificial work still more striking. " A little farther east. Miners' River enters the lake close under the brow of the cliff, which hero sinks down and gives place to a sand-bank nearly a third of a mile in extent. The river is so narrow that it requires no little skill on the part of the voyager to enter its mouth when a heavy sea is rolling in from the north. On the right bank, a sandy drift plain, cov- ered with Norway and Banksian pine, spreads out, affording good camping-ground — the only place of refuge to the voyager until he reaches Chapel River, five miles distant, if we excep* a small sand beach about midway between the two points, where, in case of necessity, a boat may be beached. " Beyond the sand beach at Miners' River the cliffs attain an altitude of one hundred and seventy-three feet, and main- tain a nearly uniform height for a considerable distance. Here one of those cascades of which we have before spoken is seen foaming down the rock. " The cliffs do not form straight lines, but rather arcs of circles, the space between the projecting points having been worn out in symmetrical curves, some of which are of large di- mensions. To one of the grandest and most regularly formed we gave the name of * The Amphitheatre.' Looking to the west, another projecting point — its base worn into cave-like 6 ^"■fT' .<:' ■%r^ *";«l i G2 LAKE 8UPKRI0R. I'M- forms— and a portion of the concave surface of tlie intervening space are seen. '• It '" in this portion of the series that the phenomena of colors are moat beautifully and conspicuously displayed. These can not be illuwt rated by a mere crayon sketch, but would re- quire, to rQprolaoc the natural effect, an elaborate drawing on a large scale, in which the various combinations of color should be caretully represented. These colors do not by any menns cover the whole surface of the cliflf even where they are most conspicuously displayed, but are confined to certain portions of the cliifs in the vicinity of the Amphitheatre ; the great mass of the surface presenting the natural, light-yellow, or raw- sienna color of the rock The colors are also limited in their vertical range, rarely extending more than thirty or forty feet above the water, or a quarter or a third of the vertical height of the cliff. The prevailing tints consist of deep-brown, yellow, and gray— burnt sienna and French-gray predominating. •There are also bright blues and greens, though less fre- quent. All of the tints are fresh, brilliant, and distinct, and harmonize admirably with one another, which, taken in con- nection with the grandeur of the arched and caverned surfaces on which they are laid, and the deep and pure green of the water which heaves and" swells at the base, and the rich foliage which waves above, produce an eflfect truly wonderful. *' They are not scattered indiscriminately over the surface of the rock, but are arranged in vertical and parallel bands, extending to the water's edge. The mode of their production is undoubtedly as follows: Between the bands or strata of thick-bedded sandstone there are thin seams of shaly mate- rials, which are more or less charged with the metallic oxides, iron largely predominating, with here and there a trace of copper. As the surface-water permeates through the porous strata it comes in contact with these shaly bands, and, oozing out from the exposed edges, trickles down the face of the cliffs, |ind leaves behind a sediment, colored according to the oxide which is contained in the band in which it originated. It can not, however, be denied that there are some peculiarities which it is difficult to explain by any hypothesis. *' On first examining the Pictured Rocks, we were forcibly struck with the brilliancy and beauty of the colors, and won- dered why some of our predecessors, in their descriptions, had hardly adverted to what we regarded as their most character- istic feature. At a subsequent visit we were surprised to find that the eflfect of the colors was much less striking than before : they seemed faded out, leaving only traces of their former bril- liancy, so that the traveler might regard this as an unimport- ant feature in the scenery. It is difficult to account for this LAKE SUPERIOR. h cliango, but it may bo duo to the dryn.\ss^ or humidity of the i;3ason. If the colors are produced hy the percolation of the water through the strata, taking up and di*p(»8lting the colored sediments, as before suggested, it is evident that i\ long period of drouth would aut off the supply of moisture, and the colors, l)oing no longer renewed, would fade, and finally disappear. This explanation seems reasonable, for at the time of our second visit the beds of the streams on the summit of the table-land were dry. " It is a curious fact, thftt the colors arc so firmly attached to the surface that they are very little atfected by rains or the dashing of the surf, since they were, in numerous instances, observed extending in all their freshness to the very water's edge. " Proceeding to the eastward of the Amphitheatre, we find the cliffs scooped out into caverns and grotesque openings, of the most striJiing and beautiful variety of forms, in some places huge blocks of sandstone have become dislodged and accumulated at the base of the cliff, where they are ground up and the fragments borne away by the ceaseless action of the surge. " To a striking group of detached blocks the name of ' Sail Rock' has been given, from its striking resemblance to the jib and mainsail of a sloop when spread — so much so, that when viewed from a distance, with a full glare of ligh*^ upon it, while the cliff in the rear is left in the shade, the illusion is perfect. The height of the block is about forty feet. " Masses of rock are frequently disloged from the cliff, if we may judge from the freshness of the fracture and the appear- ance of the trees involved in the descent. The rapidity with wliich this undermining process is carried on, at many points, will be readily appreciated when we consider that the cliffs do not form a single unbroken line of wall ; but, on the contrary, they present numerous salient angles to the full force of the waves. A projecting corner is undermined until the superincumbent weight becomes too great, the overhanging mass cracks, and aided perhaps by the power of frost, gradually becomes loosened, and finally topples with a crash into the lake. " The same general arched and broken line of cliffs borders the coast for a mile to the eastward of Sail Rock, where the most im- posing feature in the series is reached. This is the Grand Portal ~Le Grand Portail of the voyageurs. The general disposition of the arched openings which traverse this great quadrilateral mass may, perhaps, be made intelligible without the aid of a ground-plan. The main body of the structure consists of a vast mass of a rectilinear shape, pi ejecting out into the lake about six hundred feet, and presenting a front of three hundred or four M 04 LAKB 8UPEIII0R. II Mmfi 'Pl M hundred foot, and rlaing to a height of about two hundred feet. An entrance has bcon excavated from one side to the other, open- ing out into large vaulted passages which communicate with the great dome, some three hundred feet from the front of the cliff. The Grand Portal, which opi'us out on the lake, is of magnificent dimensions, being alK)ut one hundred feet in height, and one hundred and sixty-eight feet broad a* the water-level. The dis- tance from the Vv^rge of the cliff over the arch to the w .ter is one hundred and thiity-three feet, le.iving thirty-three eet for the thickness of the rock above the arch itself. The extreme height of the cliff is about fifty feet more, making in all one hundred and eighty -three feet. *' rt is impossible, by any arrangement of words, or by any combinaticm of colors, to convey an adequate idea of this won- derful scene. The vast dimensions of the cavern, the vaulteil passages, the varied effects of the light as it streams through the great arch and falls on the different objects, the deep emerald green of the water, the unvarying swell of the lake keeping up a succession of musical echoes, the reverberations of one's own voice coming back with startling eflfect, all those must be seen, and hoard, and felt, to be fully appreciated. ** Beyond the Grand Portal the cliffs gradually diminish in height, and the generjl trend of the coast is more to the south- east; hence the rock being less exposed to the force of the waves, bears fewer marks of their destructive action. The entrance to Chapel River is at the most easterly extremity of a sandy beach which extends for a quarter of a mile, and affords a convenient landing-place, while the drift-terrace, elevated about thirty feet above the lake-level, being an open pine plain, alTordb excellent camping-ground, and is the most central and convenient spot for the traveler to pitch his tent, while he ex- amines the most interesting localities in the series which occur in this vicinity — to wit, the Grand Portal and the Chapel.-- (See Engraving.) The Chapel — La tbapelle of the voyageurs— \f not the grand- est, is among the most grotesque, of Nature's architecture here displayed. Unlike the excavations before described, which occur at the water's edge, this has been made in the rock at a height of thirty or forty feet above the lake. The interior consists of a vaulted apartment, which has not inaptly received the name it bears. An arched roof of sandstone, from ten to twenty feet in thickness, rests on four gigantic columns of rock, so as to leave a vaulted apartment of irregular shape, about forty feet in diameter, and about the same in height. The columns con- sist of finely stratified rock, and have been worn into curious shapes. At the base of one of them an arched cavity or niche has been cut, to which access is had by a flight of steps formed LAKE &UPEKIOU. t C5 by tlio projecting strnta. The disposition of the whol » is such us to ruso'inble very much tlio "pulpit of a church; since there is overhciid an arched canopy, anil in front an opening out toward the vaulted interior of the chapel, with a Hat tabular mass in front, rising to a convenient height for a desk, while on the right is an isolated block, which not in:ip ly represents an alttir ; so that if the whole hail been adapted expressly for a place of worship, and fashioned by tlie hantl of ni.m, it could hanlly have been arranged more appropriately. It is hardly possible to describe the singular and ur.iquc eft\jct of this extraordinary structure; it is truly a temple of nature — " a housj not made with hands." •• i)n the west side, and in close proximity, ('hapvd River enters the lake, precipitating itself over a rocky ledge ten or fii'tcen feet in height.* " It is surprising to see how little the action of the stream has worn away the rocks which form its bed. There appears to have been hardly any recession of the cascade, and the rocky bed has been excavated only a foot or two since the stream r»jsumed its present direction. " It seems therefore impossible that the river could have had any influence in excavating the Chapel itself, but its excavation must be referred to a periOd when the waters of the lake stood at a higher level. '* N^ar the Grand Portal the cliffs are covered, in placps, with an efflorescence of sulphate of lime, in delicate crystallizations ; this substance not only incrusts the walls, but is found deposited on the moss which lines them, forming singular and interesting specimens, which however can not be transported without losing their beauty. " At the same place we found numerous traces of organic life in the form of obscure fucoidal markings, wiiich seem to be the impressions of plants, similar to those described by Prof. Hall as occurring in the Potsdam sandstone of New York. These were first noticed at this plice by Dr. Locke, in 1847." Grand Island, 125 miles distant from the Saut, is about ten miles long and five wide, lying close in to the south shore. This is a wild and romantic island ; the cliffs of sandstone, irregular and broken into by the waves, form picturesque caverns, pillars, and arches of immense dimensions. The main shore, also in I yj 13' 1 * " At this fall, according to immemorial usage among the voyag^uvs in Jweending the lake, the mangeurs de tard, who make their first trip, re- ceive baptism ; which consists in giving them a severe ducking — a cere- mony somewhAt similar to that practic^ on green-horns, when crossing Uie line. 6* *i m 66 LAKE SUPERIOR. sight, presents a magnificent appearance. Here are several other small islands, and a good harbor. It is proposed to con- struct a railroad from this harbor to the head of Big Bay de Noc, the most northern arm of Green Bay, only 30 miles dis- tant, thus forming an almost direct north and south route to Chicago, etc. Marquette, Mich., 170 miles from the Saut, is one of the most flourishing places on the borders of Lake Superior, being the shipping port of the rich iron mines, which are from four to twelve miles distant from the village. These mines yield from 60 to 80 per cent, pure iron, which is exported in large quan- tities to Detroit, to Cleveland, and to Pittsburgh. A railroad extends some twelve or fourteen miles to the mines, affording the mines facilities for transporting the ore to Marquette, where is a good harbor. The village contains two churches, a large hotel, besides several taverns and stores, and about 1,000 in- habitants. A railroad will soon be constructed from.this point to Little Bay de Noc, about 30 miles southeast, which, when completed, will greatly facilitate the traffic in iron and^opper ores, in which this whole section of country abounds, as well as with other valuable metals, precious stones, etc. '}"^\i LAKE SUPERIOR IRON REGION. " The discovery of the iron mountains and mines of Lake Superior was made in 1846, but owing to the cost of trans-ship- ment and transportation across the Portage at the Falls of St. Mary's River, but little was done to develop them until the com- pletion of the Snut Ste Marie ship canal, two years ago, which gave a new and lively impetus to the business ; and it now foruis an important feature of the Lake Superior trade. " The mines are situated from three to sixteen miles from Marquette, a pleasant and thriving village of 1,000 inhabitants., overlooking Luko Superior, located near the mouth cf Carp River, 140 miles above Saut Ste Marie. «* The mine nearest to the lake is the Eureka, about two and a half miles from Marquette. The ore here is not so easily or cheaply obtained as at the Sharon or Cleveland mountains, but it is of surpassing richness, and yields an iron of the finest and LAKE SUPERIOR 67 J several d to con- 5 Bay de ailes dis- route to me of the ior, being >m four to j^ield from rge quan- V. railroad , affording Btte, where es, a large i 1,000 in- .this point hich, when ind^opper as well as Is of Lake [rans-ship- Jalls of St. Il the com- \go, which (now forms lilcs from ittbitants., cf Carp two and easily or Itains, but lest and best quality for cutlery, etc. It has not been worked so ex- tensively as the others, but it is being prosecuted with vigor. " The Jackson Iron Mountain, owned by the Sharon Company, is situated 14 miles from Marquette ; and the Cleveland Mount- ain, ownetl by Wm^ H. Gordon and others, of Cleveland, is two miles beyond. A plank road, laid with flat iron rails, is in operation from Marquette to both of these mines, and the ore is transported in cars drawn by horses and mules. One span of horses or mules will draw a car containing five tons of ore, and make one trip a day. The operative forces at each of them the present season are about equal, and they send to Marquette an aggregate of from 800 to 1 ,000 tons per week. These mount- ains rise gradually to a height of six or seven hundred feet, and arc a solid mass of iron ore, yielding from 50 to 60 per cent, of the best iron in the world. " Two and a half miles beyond the Cleveland is the New England Iron Mountain, which is said to abound with ore of equal richness and quality with the others, but as the railroad is not yet completed to it, nothing has been done to develop it. A mile or two farther on we reach the Burt Iron Mountain ; but as they all bear so strong a resemblance to each other in quantity, quality, and richness of ores, a description of one answers for them all. That the iron of this region is inex- iiaustible admits of no doubt, and that it is the richest and best in the world haa been clearly proved by analysis and practical demonstration. "The associates of the late Heman B. Ely, Esq., are con- structing a substantial railroad from Marquette to the Burt Mountain, and a company has been formed to continue it on to Wisconsin Stato-line. Six or eip^ht miles of tliis road is com- pleted, laid with heavy T rail, and a locomotive is running upon it. The grading is nearly completed to the Jackson Mountain, U miles, and the iron ¥rill be laid this fall, or early in the spring. The completion of this road will have a tendency to reduce materially the price of ore at Marquette. It is now [lield at $5 per ton, delivered on the wharf; it can then be sold I at $?, 50, and yield as fair a profit as it now does at !if 5. " The Sharon Iron Company have expended some $300,000 I in the construction of a substantial breakwater and wharf, twelve hundred feet long, a'. Marquette. The harbor is well protected, except against an east wind, which blows directly in ; but an expenditure of fifty thousand dollars, in extending Ithe breakwater already constructed, would make it safe at aU I times. "In 1848, two years after the discovery of iron, the first [bloom forge on Lake Superior was built by the Jackson Iron ICompany. It is situated about ten miles from Marquette, in :'ki': 68 LAKE SUPEIUOR the vicinity of the Jackson Mountain. It is a small affiir, having only two fires, and as the machinery proved imperfect, but little has been done with it. " The second forge was built by the Marquette Iron Company in 1850, located at the village of Marquette. This had four fires, and was worked by steam. It was in successful operation about eighteen months, when it was destroyed by fire, in 18r)2 " The third bloomery was built, in 185o, by Mr. M'Connell It is situated on the Dead River, six miles from Marquette, has tvro fires, and i 'Vf)rked by water-power. " The fourth aud iii-^'st extensive and successful bloom forgo, on Lake .Superior is that of the Collins Iron Company, situated on Dead liiver, three miles from Marquette. This was ccm- pleted in 1855. It is worked by water-power, has e'ght fires, and is capable of manufacturing 2,000 tons blooms per {;mium. " Burt Mount lin is situated seventeen miles west from the lake, and forms the present terminus of the I. M. II. \\. The surface indications of the iron ore at this point are of the first class, of which we procured some fine specimens. It has not yet been opened, yet those who understand such matters think it will pay richly to work it. We did not find all the surface- indications, yet what we did find contained but little jasper, being mostly diamond, granulated, and slate ore. The weight of it quite sur^'-ised us— we took hold of a piece about eight inches square .*nd three in thickness, thinking to lift it with one hand, but our fingers slipped off as though it had been oiled, and no attempt was made afterward to lift any but small pieces. The bed of ore which we found lay within a few feet of the railroad track, and could be loaded on to cars at a very small expense. It will probably be opened as soon as the cars are running to this point ; from this point we strike off nearly south to Lake Angelina. *' Cleveland Mountain is sixteen miles from the lake, and one mile east of the Burt Mountain. This mine is now actively worked, and sends down daily to the lake from forty to fifty tons of good ore. Mr. D. P. Moore, the foreman of the mining work, informed us they had some two hundred tons of ore ready for transportation, and were constantly gaining upon the teams that take it away. There are now about thirty men employed at this mine constantly, and additions aic expected soon. It would be utterly impossible to give an adequate idea of the im- mense amount of ore at this point — it lies piled up in huge masses above the surface, and the depth of it can not be deter- mined, but probably extends farther down than ever will be dug to get it. Indeed, there is now enough upon the surface to last for ages, to say nothing of other looalities, to which this ia but a conmienoement. The miners have struck a bed of jasper, LAKE SUPERIOR. 69 lU aflTiir, mperi'ect, Company had four operation I, in 18r.2 I'Connell uette, haa lom forgo, r, situated was ccm- i'ght iires, er r.mium. t from the L. R. The )f tbe first It has not Iters think le surface- tie jasper, rhe weight bout eight lift it with had been ' but small a few feet s at a very as the cars off nearly i lake, and [)W actively •ty to fifty the mining f ore ready 1 the teams n employed i soon. It I of the im- ap in huge )t be deter- ver will be B surface to hich this is )d of jasper, where they are now at work, on a level with the road, which will not be very profitable working; yet this is no drawback at all, for it is thought that below it is as good ore as any ob- tained, and even if there was none, there is enough above ground, which can be got out cheaper than that. This the company will probably do now, as when the work of mining shall become thoroughly systemfttized, the cheaper ore can be worked as profitably as the b^st can now. Yet this is not neces- sary, as there is an unlimited amount of ore that yields from eighty to ninety per cent, of pure iron. There seems to be no obstacle now in the way of the successful and profitable work- iig of this mine. " Jackson Mountain ^ from the lake, is fourteen miles distant, and east from the Cleveland Mountain to the place where the miners are working, two miles. It will be seen at once, that thousands of tons can be prepared with but little labor, wlien a good face is defined off and ready for blasting. From Mr. Zimmerman, the foreman of the mining operations, we learned that the company have eleven men now at work excavating the ore and preparing it for removal. It may not be amiss to re- mark here, that the ore is broken up into a convenient size for handling and shipping, at all the mines, before it is taken away. They have now at tue min s about five hundred tons ready for transportation. The quantity carried to the lake as yet, this season, is small, compare Mvely ; but we understand the com- pany have just received a stock of mules, and will probably commence the transportation of it on a large scale very soon. V/uere the miners are now excavating, the surface exhibits a thin layer of slaty rock, which, being removed, shows ore of the best quality, except in a ifew small veins which contain some jasper. The surface-indications upon the top of the mountain exhibit a rather large proportion of jasper ; yet where the side has been faced down it shows that it is only at the surface ; what it may be on penetrating to the heart of the mountain it is impossible to conjecture. " The Eureka Mine is distant from the lake but two and a half miles, and but "a short distance from the railway, with which it connects by a side track. Some difficulty has been experienced here in getting out the ore, in consequence of the veins being imbedded in the rock, but the work of excavating has been persevered in, until it now promises well. The ore improves as it progresses downward, and the veins grow wider. The close proximity of this mine to the lake gives it an ad- vantage over those more distant, as the cost of transportation will be materially lessened. There are many locations within the district which we passed over, that we did not visit. They are not yet opened, and we did not think it proper to describe ''^'i "« 70 LAKE SUPERIOR i!li them until they should be, and their value ascertained. This will probably be done at no distant day." — Report of 1856. Carp and Bead rivers both flow into Lake Superior, near Marquette, on eiwh side of which there are rapids and falls of great beauty, affording good water-power. Chocolate River also flows into the lake some two or three miles east of Marquette, but through a different geological formation. On leaving Marquette, the steamer usually runs in a N.W. direction, passing Pre^que lie. Granite Point, and Granite Island, the lat*er having two vertical walls of trap 20 feet high and 12 feet apart, forming a good boat-harbor. SrANARD*s Rock, discovered by Captain Stanard in 1835, while in the employ of the American Fur Company, sailing the schooner John Jacob Astor, is a solitary and dangerous bare rocky projection, rising out of the lake, off the mouth of Keweenaw Bay, in the route of the steamers on their way from Marquette to Copper Harbor, 65 miles. L'Ance is an excellent harbor, where is a small settlement, situated at the head of Keweenaw Bay. A short distance north are located a Roman Catholic and Methodist mission house and church. The Catholic being on the west shore of the bay, and the Methodist on the east, both are surrounded by Indian tribes and settlements. This locality, at no diatant day, must become an important point, being favorably situated between the iron and copper regions of Lake Superior. Portage ExVtry, situ»^ted on the west shore of KeweenaTf Bay, about fifteen miles north of L'Ance, at the outlet of Port- age Lake, is a new and important place, from whence some of the rich copper ore of this region is exported. Portage Lake is an extensive and beautiful sheet of water, extending to within half a mile of the entire breadth of thb peninsula of Kev.eenaw Point, in the county of Houghton, h receives a number of small streams, draining the rich copper region of Lake Superior. No portion of the south shore of Lake Superior exceeds this lake and its vicinity as a resort for health and pleasure. Keweb:v mto Lake S about sixty ward of 1( abounds in i of the latter such large i rated for th( 1,000 to 5,0 markets. T cing specim.e Manitou light-house The island if Copper L shore of Ke^ the best har 600 inhabits and storehoi has been con for the accoi The coppe: mg, are ver Agate H I name of a so I as yet by st( Eagle IL [steamboat la soveral ston m!l:is and uf LAKE 8UPERI6R. 1 Kewee.vaw Point* is a large exten«, of land jutting out into Lake Superior, from ten to twenty-five miles wide, and about sixty miles in length. This section of country for up- ward of 100 miles» running from southwest to northeast, abounds in silver and copper ores, yielding immense quantities of the latter ; much of it being pure native copper, but often in such large masses as to render it almost impossible to be sepa- rated for the purpose of transportation. Masses weighing from 1,000 to 5,000 pounds are often sent forward to the Eastern markets. The geological formation is very interesting, produ- cing specimens of rare beauty and much value. Manitou Island lies oflf Keweenaw Point, on which is a light-house to guide the mariner to and from Copper Harbor. The island is about seven miles in length and four wide. Copper Karbor, Houghton Co., Mch., situated on the north shore of Keweenaw Point, 260 miles from the Saut, is one of the best harbors on Lake Superior. The village contains about 600 inhabitants, a church, and two hotels, besides several stores and storehouses. Fort Wilkins, formerly a U. S. military post, has been converted into a hotel and water-cure establishment for t1ie accommodation of visitors and invalids. The copper mines are from four to six miles back of the land- ing, are very productive, and well worthy a visit. Agate Harbor, ten miles west of Copper Harbor, is the I name of a small settlement. This port, is not much frequented I as yet by steamers. Eagle Harbor, 16 miles west of Copper Harbor, is a good [steamboat landing. Here is a good public-house, together with several stores and storehouses. The mines are situated three ua'.las and upward from the landing. * " On many maps spelled Keweeicaiwona^ and otherwise. Pronounced jl)y our Indians, * Kl-wi-wai-non-hig,' now written and pronounced as above; meaning a portaae, or place where a portage is made — the V, hole distance of some efehty or ninety miles around the Point being ttved by entering Portage Lake and following np a small stream, leaving I portage of only about a half mile to Lake Superior on the other side."— ViMtUr and Whitney^a KeporU 72 LAKE SUPERIOR. If Eagle River Harbor and village are favorably situated at the mouth of a stream of the same name. Here is a thriving settlement, it being the outlet of the celebrated Cliflf and North American Copper mines, two of the most successful copper min- ing companies probablj' in this or any other country. licre the lamented Dr. Houghton was drowned, October, 1845, while engaged in exploring this section of country — Keweenaw Point and adjacent country being very appropriately named Hough- ton County in honor of his memory. The following is an account of the melancholy death of Dr. Houghton : " By a friend direct from Lake Superior, we have the painful intelligence of the death of Dr. Douglas Houghton, State Geolo- §ist of Michigan, who, with two voyageurs or half-breeds, was rowned by the swamping of their boat on Lake Supeiior during a storm on the 13th of October, 1845, as they were com- ing down from a portage to Copper Harbor. They were swamped about a mild and a half from Eagle River. Dr. Houghton had been for some time engaged in a geological and linear survey of the Copper Region for the Federal Government, and was engaged in the discharge of this duty when he met with his lamented end. He was about 50 years old, univer- sally beloved by those who knew him, and had \y years of pa- tient toil and study acquired a knowledge of the Mineral Re- gion which no living man possesses or can for years acquire. His death is not Qnl,y a sore blow to his family and numerous friends, but a public calamity. His body had not been recov- ered on the 22d, when our informant left, though search had been made for it. The body of one of his voyageurs (Pequettej had been found, with a few pieces of the boat. There were four with him at the time of the disaster, two of whom were hurled by the waves upon the rocks, ten feet above the usual level of the waters " Ontonagon, Ontonagon Co., Mich., 836 miles from the Sant Ste Marie, is advantageously situated at the mouth of the river of the same name. The river is about 200 feet wide at its mouth, with a sufficient depth of water over the bar for large steamers. Here is being erected an extensive pier and break- water. The village contains an Episcopal, a Presbyterian, and a Roman Catholic church; three good hotels, the Bigelovf House being and storehoi In this vi« National, tl per mines, ing, being ii naw Point here found i copper ore, «* During 152 tons 1, weighed 7,1 that districi "The Roc Some of th< which have *'We hav and conden concerning " Ontona Miner thin on the lak were erecte amount of i « The Mi luring the copper. The copper now eraploj 537 persons " The R also report* " Great harbor, an *'A11 th largely dui pected. " It won trade with we mi8tak< LAKE SUPERIOR. 78 [tuated at thriviiig ^nd North )per min- ry. licre i45, while law Point \d Hough- ith of Dr. e painful ate Geolo- reeds, was > Superior were com- 'hey were iver. Dr. ogical and vernment, en he met Id, nniver- sars of pa- [ineral He- 's acquire, numerous ►een recov- search had (Pequetto; I were four ere hurled al level of n the Sant f the river ide at its r for large nd break- erian, and B Bigelov House being the largest; 2 steam saw- mills, and 10 or 12 stores and storehouses, and about 1,500 inhabitants. In this vicinity are located the Minnesota, the Norwich, the National, the Rockland, and several other very productive cop- per mines. The ore is found from 12 to 15 miles from the land- ing, being imbedded in a range of high hills traversing Kewee- naw Point from N.E. to S.VV. for about 100 miles. Silver is here found in small quantities, beautifully intermixed with the copper ore, which abounds in great masses. " During the month of July, 1856, the Minnesota Mine raised 152 tons 1,272 pounds of copper. One mass from this mine weighed 7,122 pounds — the largest, we believe, yet sent from that district. " The Rockland raised in the same month 30 tons 848 pounds. Some of the masses raised were the most beautiful and pure which have ever been seen upon the lake." LAKE SUPEEIOR INTELLIGENCE. ♦* We have received a late copy of the Lake Superior Miner y, and condense from its columns some interesting intelligence - concerning Lake Superior matters. " Ontonagon is said to be improving very rapidly, and the^ Miner thinks it destined to become the most important point on the lake shore. During 1856, some forty new buildings were erected, various streets graded and planked, and a large- amount of real estate sold to actual settlers. " The Minnesota Mine, fifteen miles from Ontonagon, shipped'. luring the year ending January 1, 1857, 3,718,403 pounds of copper. Of this amount only 255,854 pounds was stamp work. . The copper will probably be found of a high purity. There are now employed on the location, above and below ground, some 537 persons. '*The Rockland, National, Nebraska, and other mines, are also reported as raising large quantities of copper. ''Great improvements have been made on the Ontonagon harbor, and several new docks and piers erected. ''All the mines are making preparations to ship copper largely during the coming season, when ' lively times' are ez^ pected. " It would be weU for oar Eastern merchants to open a larger- trade with Lake Superior, in which there is a good chance, if we mistake not, for investments of a most profitable nature." 7 1 n nil LAKE SUPERIOR. COPPPEE MINING MATTEE8. " The Minnesota has raised during the year ending Jan. Ist, 1857, 3,718,403 pounds of copper. 'Hxey have built during the year one very fine warehouse and office, 26 by 60, an excellent agent's house, a minister's house, and a new engine-house. *' The following is the product of the year 1866, by months In that time the Minnesota leads the Cliff, in mine production, by more than 200 tons, and we think the difference in ingot copper will be still greater in favor of the former mine. January 318,1T7 February. 806,682 March 8^^0,488 April 818,811 Mkv 805,117 Juno 808,123 July 805,272 August 80!»,7ai September. 800,201 October 8or,ia^ November. 813,87'2 December 800,994 Total pounds, nett 8,718,408 Or 1,S59 tons 408 pounds. *• The CVty raised, during the year preceding December 1, 1866, at which their fiscal year terminates, 8,291,229 pounds of copper, or 1,654 tons and 1 ,239 pounds. They raised during the preceding year a little less than 1,489 tons, which shows an increase of about 149 tons in favor of the year just past. ** The following additional shipments were made by the Various mines on the Point during the last season. We can only regret that we are not able to make the list complete at present. North America 645,498 Rockland 898,188 Connecticut 44,080 Central 105,487 Northwestern 80,688 Copper Falls, about 896,000 (( Qnincy 20 Fewabic 108 This last-named mine shipped some pounds more than the amount in the table. " The following is the amount in round tons shipped from the Portage Lake District. IsleRoyale 298 Portage 101 Huron 22 La Pointe, La Pointe Co., Wis., situated on Madeline Island, one of the group of the Twelve Apostles, 410 miles from the Saut, and 83 miles from Superior City, is a highly important place. It was early settled by the Jesuits and American Fur Traders. The population consists of a mixture of Indians, French Canadians, and Americans. In addition to its fur trade, La Tointe has long been the favorite resort of the " red man" indthe *'pa 88 the spirit country. H( best fishing-g The TwEL Line, Sugar, and Presque together a si the summer i Here are to 1 200 feet aboi with a rich f Bayfield has a good 1 from whence 120 miles to the above ri^ Ashland, wamegon Ba rise to some harbor. Maskeg I small lakes, < some ten mil( mg the boun Wigconain. On proceed passes aroui du Lac, a n( may be saic in good fishi SUPERIOI udvantageoi of the lake,: two hotels, 1,500 inha ag Jan. Ist, during the n excellent -house, by months production, ce in ingot ine. .... 805,272 ... 80!>,7«l ... 800,201 ... 80r,l«.N ... 813,872 ... 800,994 .... 8,718,408 )ccember 1, ,229 pounds lised during h shows an past. ade by the n. We can complete at 105,487 80,688 896,000 re than the ed from the LAKR SUPICKIOR. 75 20 108 iline Island, ;s from the J important lerican Fur of Indians, s fur trade, '< red man" ind the ** pale face;** the former will no doubt soon disappear, B8 the spirit of speculation has entered this whole region of country. Here, among the islands, are to be found some of the best fishing-grounds for which Lake Superior is so justly famed. The Twelve Apostles' Isles consist of the Madeline, Gap, Line, Sugar, Oak, Otter, Bear, Kock, Cat, Ironwood, Outer, and Presque Isle, besides a few smaller islands, Ijeing crrouped together a short distance off the mainland, presenting during the summer months a most picturesque and loTely appoarance. Here are to be seen clay and sandstone cliffs rising from 100 to 200 feet above the waters, while most of the islands are clothed with a rich foliage of forest trees. Bayfield, La Pointe Co., Wis. , three miles west of La Pointe, has a good harbor. The village is situateci on the mainland, from whence it is proposed to bv'!d a railroad for a distan^se of 120 miles to the St. Croix River, t« minating at a point where the above river becomes navigable. Ashland, 12 miles south of La Pointe, at the head of Chag- wamegon Bay, is another new settlement no doubt destined to < rise to some importance, it .aving a very spacious and secure harbor. Maskeg River, a considerable stream, the outlet of several small lakes, enters Lake Superior about 15 miles east of Ashland , some ten miles fai ther eastward entern Montreal River, form- mg the boundary, in part, between the States of Michigan and Wigconsin. On proceeding from La Pointe westward, the steamer usually passes around Point de Tour, ten miles north, and enters Fond (lu Lac, a noble bay situated at the head of Lake Superior. It may be said to be 50 miles long and 20 miles wide, abounding in good fishing-grounds. Superior, or Superior City, Douglass Co , Wis., is most advantageously situated on a bay of Superior, at the west end of the lake, near the mouth of St. Louis River. Here is a church, two hotels, and ten or fifteen stores and storehouses, and about 1,500 inhabitants. A small river called the Nemadji runs i 76 LAKK SUPKIIIOK. through Superior, and enters into the bay. Perhaps no plaoe on L&ke Superior has commercial advantages equal to tliis town; Its future is magnified almost beyond conception. The St, Croix am/ Superior Railroad is proposed to terminate at this place, extending southward to Hudson on the St. Croix River, about 140 miles. Another railroad is proposed to extend westward to the Sauk Rapids, on the Upper Mississippi, either from ibis place or Portland, Min. NOTES OF TRAVEL. From a Correnponderd qf t/ie Buffalo Courier. Ontonagon — La Pointe— Superior City. Dated, St. Paul, Miniv., August, 1856. *• On Sunday we attended church in Ontonagon, situated on the south shore of Lake Superior. There are, I believe, four congregations, viz., Presbyterian, Episcopalian, Methodist, and Catholic. Their houses of worship bear the characteristics of the place; they are hasty but comfortable edifices, which, as the place advances, must give way to more substantial and taste- ful structures. On Monday the fcteamer " Lady Elgin" arrived, bound for Superior City. We got on board about half-past three o'clock, and left, without any poignant regret, the young, but ambitious Ontonagon. *• We arrived at La Pointe at ten o'clock in the evening, situ- ated on the southern extremity of Madeline Island, the largest of the group denominated the Apostles' Mauds. La Pointe has been a place of considerable importance as a fur-trading post, and is still a common resort of the Indians desiring to sell furs or obtain supplies. Speculators have seized upon it, and to believe their representations, it is about the only place of any consequence upon the lake. How much of a village it is, or how it is situated, the shades of night prevented me from observ- ing. I watched, however, when a passenger came on board, and observed his feet clogged with clay ; so I concluded that the island had a clay soil. " In the morning of the following day we found ourselves maneuvering to get into the harbor of Superior. This place has one of most beautiful natural harbors that I ever witnessed The town is situated on the extreme end of Lake Superior, on a geiatle declivity overlooking the water. Immediately in front a long, narrow strip of land shoots across, cutting off a couuno- dious and seems almo it adapted that is a so outlay. B* of these la] narrow and kept at WO] relieve it fi Wahbac on the Wif Indian vilk the northe] accessible I of Superioi River thai without ore Gordon, St. Croix a tween Supe capitalists. DiBTA Fond-du-I Pokagema, Falls St. Marine Mi Stillwater, St. Paul, Distance by propose 76 miles. DiSTi Superior. Crow Win Otter Tail Rice River Sand Hills Grand Foi Pembina. From St LAKZ SUPERIOR. TT 6 no plaoe this town; St. Croix this place, ver, about westward from this gu8f, 1856. jituated on jlieve, four loclist, and acteristics , which, as [ and taste- bound for reo o'clock, ^ ambitious ning, situ- the largest La Pointe ur-trading ring to sell pon it, and lace of any rQ it is, or 'om observ- board, and id that the I ourselves This place ' witnessed )erior, on a f in front a F a commo- dious and perfectly secure harbor. This r:itural breakwater seems almost to have been placed there artificially, so exactly is it adapted to its purpose. The harbor has but one fault, and that is a serious one, yet which may be remedied bv sufficient outlay. Boats of a sufficient capacity to undergo the weather of these lakes can not find sufficient depth of water, except in narrow and confined channels of the bay. A dred^ng-maohine kept at work here for a few months would, I belieTo, entirely relieve it from these difficulties." Wahbaoon is the name of a new town that has been laid out on the Wisconsin side of the St. Louis Biyer, opposite to the Indian village of Fond du Lac, and at the end of nayigation on the northern lakes and rivers. It is the farthest inland point accessible by vessels from the ocean — ^being fourteen miles west of Superior. It is said to be the only point on the St. Louis River thai can be reached by roads from the south or west without crossing the river. Gordon, the name of a new town located on the line of the St. Croix and Lake Superior Railroad, and about midway be- tween Superior and Hudson, is now attracting the attention of capitalists. Distances from Fond du Lac to St. Paul, Min. Fond-du-Lac, (St. Louis River) Miles, Pokagema, {Portage) 76 Falls St. Croix, {Canoe) 40 116 Marine Mills, {Steamboat) 19 134 Stillwater, " 11 146 St. Paul, {Stage) 18 168 Distance from Superior City to St. Cloud (Sauk Rapids), by proposed railroad route, 120 miles. St. Cloud to St. Paul, 76 miles. Total, 196 miles. Distances from Superior City to Pembina, Min. Superior Miles. Crow Wing , 80 Otter Tail Lake : 70 160 Rice River 74 224 Sand Hills River. . . ! 70 294 Grand Fork, (Red River) 40 334 Pembina 80 414 From St. Paul to Pembina, via Crow Wing 464 miles. \ I- 78 111! i|!'.li/ :k ill • liili! ■4t I ii I I LAKE 8UPEUI0R. SUPERIOR CITY The Superior Chronicle of the 20th of JiMi., 1867, arrived by mail a day or two since, and is pretty mnch taken up with a • semi-annual review of the town of Supkrior, Wisconsin.' The statement is highly flatterins to the enterprise of the cit- izens, as well as to the natural advantages of the location— the extreme western and northern point of lake navigation. The number of inhabitants is about 1 ,500, being an inorease in one year of IKK). The nuiubcr of houses in June, 1866, 19G, and in January, 1867, 840. There are in and round the town five saw-mills in operation. Eight hundred thousand feet of lumber were imported, and one million feet of lumber made by the mills. The Chronicle stiys : ♦• The lands granted to build a road from Hudson tx) Superior, and from Superior to Bayfield, have passed into the bands of the St. Croix and Lake Superior Railroad Company, and that company have contracted with Messrs. Dillon, Jackson, Jarrett & Co. for the construction and entire equipment of that portion of the road between Superior and Hudson within two years from the 4th of July next. These contractors are also obligated to build a good wagon road from this place to the St. Croix River this winter ; and also to complete, early next spring, an ex- tensive pier and warehouse on the grounds of the company at the mouth of the Ncmadji River. About sixty men are em- ployed in constructing the wagon road, and parties are pic- paring the piles and timbers for the docks and warehouses. The contractors have about $10,000 worth of provisions and supplies for next Hummer's operations distributed along this end of the line. Next season the work on the road is to be com- menced at three different points — Superior, Gordon, and Hud- son ; and on this division one thousand men vrill be employed. " The St. Croix and Lake Superior Railroad Company in- tend erecting next spring a substantial dock and warehouse on their depot grounds at the mouih of the Nemadji River. The dock will be three hundred feet long by fifty wide, and the warehouse one hundred and ten feet front by forty deep, tl ( timbers for which are now being got out, and the first install- ment is to be delivered on the ground the present week. " The proprietors of Superior are constructing a very ex- tensive dock on the river bank opposite to the depot grounds of the railroad company. It commences on the bay front, about seven hundred feet from the mouth of the river, and runs from thence a distance of two thousand feet. It is to be fifty feet wide, and connected with the mainland by a causeway over the marsh at the foot of Robinson Avenue. " A comp summer, wit contract, an collecting as of the stock] proposed to ( next summe not pcrfcctei •' {Several $16,0tK) to \ matters intr been unnecc limitation a feel pretty g opening of i " The arr following CO] Yen H. 1854... 1S65.... 1868.... "This tal Bels, and an PORTLAN the extreme Supetior Ci good steami of the coum Superior Ci Pacific coasi seen bold s mineral wes Fond du River, 20 m of a large c the St. Loui an immense ties, from v< used for bui vicinity. T of oommerc< LAKE SUPERIOR. 79 rrived by ip with a isconsin.' f the cit- tion— the ion. The ise in one 6, and in >peration. and one icle says : Superior, bands of and that 1, Jarrett it portion ears from igated to [oix River g, an ex- mpany at L are em- are pic- irehouses. sions and 5 this end be com- ),nd Hud- iploycd. pany in- ehouse on irer. The , and the deep, tl ( !t instaU- very cx- rounds of int, about runs from fifty feet T oyer the " A company to erect a Masonic Hall was organized last anmmer, witli a capital stock of $7,000. It was placed under contract, and the work begun, but owing to the difficulty in collecting assessments in consequence of the absence of many of the stockholders, it was suspended until next spring. It ia proposed to erect a Tery large notel in the Ticinity of tliis Hall next summer, at a cost of $80,000, but as the organization is not perfected, we can make but a brief inllusion to it. " Several years ago Congress made an appropriation of $15,0(K) to build a light-house at this pUce ; but, lilce all other matters intrn;ated to government officials, its commencement has been unnecessarily delayed. It is under contract, and as the limitation allowed for its completion will expire next fall, we feel pretty sure that its construction will be commenced on the opening of navigation. " The arrivals at this port for the past three years boar the following comparison : Yen H. 1854. 1S65. 1866. StcamhoHta. .... 2 ... ....28 ... ....40 ... SalHug VeuelR. ... 6 .... ... 10 .... ... 16 .... ToIkI. 7 06 "This table jhoi^s an increase in 1856 over 1?''A of 20 ves- sels, and an increase '.n 1856 over 1855 of 23 vessels." Portland, St. Louis Co., Min., advantageously situated at the extreme west end of Lake Superior, sever miles N.W. from Superior City, is a place of growing importance, where is a good steamboat landing, vriih. bold shore. This is the capital of the county, and bids fair to be a successful competitor with Superior City for the carrying trade of the Great West and Pacific coa^t. Along the shore of the lake northward are to be seen bold sandy blufifs and highlands, supposed to bv' rich in mineral wealth. Fond du Lac, St. Louis Co., Min., is situated on St. Louis River, 20 miles above its entrance into Lake Superior. Vessels of a large class ascend to this place, being within four miles of the St. Louis Falls, having a descent of about CO feet, affording an immense water-power. Here are sandstone and blato quar- ries, from which stone and slate are quarried, and extcjnsively used for building purposes. Iron and copper ore abound in the yicinity. These advantages bid fair to moke his point a mart of commerce and m'^nufacture. i I \ 1 i 80 LAKE SUPERIOR. ffill St. Louis River, flowing into the S.W. end of Lake Supe- rior, is a large and important stream, and ie nayigablo for steamers and lake craft for upward of 20 miles from its mouth. Above the falls (where the water has a descent of 60 feet, pre- senting a beautifiil appearance), the river is navigable for canoes and small craft for about 80 miles farther. This river is the recipient of the waters of several small lakes lying almost due north of its outlet, its head waters flowing south from near Rainy Lake. Clifton, St. Louis Co., Min., situated 11 miles N.E. of the head of Lake Superior, is a new settlement. In the vicinity are rich copper mines and good farming lands. Burlington is another new settlement, situated northeast of Clifton, possessing similar advantages. Encampment is the name cf a ri\er, island, and village, where is a good harbor, the mouth of vhe river being protected by the island. On the river, near its entrance into the lake, are falls affording fine water-power. Cliffs of greenstone are to be seen, rising from 200 to 800 feet above the water's edge, pre- senting a handsome appearance. To the north of Encampment, along the lake shore, abound porphyry and greenstone. This locality is noted for a great agitation of the magnetic needle ; the depth of water in the vicinity is too great for vessels to anchor, the shores being remarkably bold, and in some places rise from 800 to 1,000 feet above the water. Hiawatha is another new settlement, situated on the y. est shore of Lake Superior, where is found copper oia and other valuable minerals, precious stones, etc. Grand Portage, Min., advantageously situated on a secure bay, near the mouth of Pigeon River, is suk old station of the American Fur Company. Here is a Roman Catholic Mission, a block-house, and some 12 or 15 dwellings. Mountains from 800 to 1,000 feet are here seen rising abruptly from the water's edge, presenting a bold and sublime appearance. Pigeon Bay and River forms the northwest boundary between the United States and Canada, or the Hudson Bay LAKE SUPERIOR. 81 ce Snpe- ablo for s mouth, eet, pre- )r canoes jr is the nost due om near !. of the vicinity lortheast I village, protected the lake, >ne are to (dge, pre- bmpment, le. This needle; (ressels to ae places the T. est md other 1 a seen re ion of the Mission, a I from 800 le "water's boundary dson Bay Company's territory. Pigeon River is but a second-class stream, and by its junction with Arrow River continues the boundary through Rainy Lake and River to the Lake of the Woods, where the 49th degree of north latitude is reached. The mouth of Pigeon River is about 48 degrees north latitude, and 89 de- grees 30 minutes west from Greenwich. Along the whole west shore of Lake Superior, from St. Louis River to Pigeon River, are alternations of metamorpliosed scliists and sandstone, with volcanic grits and other imbedded traps and porphyry, with elevations rising from 800 to 1,200 feet above the lake, often presenting a grand appearance. Pie Island, lying northeast of Grand Portage, is a large island belonging to the British. Hills some 700 feet in height are here to be seen, presenting a wild and romantic appearance, being formed in part of green rock. Thunder Cape is a bold promontory on the north, rising 1,350 feet above the waters of the lake; inside of this point ■ lies Thunder Bay^ a large and picturesque sheet of water. Isle Roy ale, Houghton Co., Mich., being about 45 miles in length from N.p. to S.W., and from 8 to 12 miles in width, is a rich and important island, abounding in copper ore and other minerals, and also precious stones. The principal harbor and only settlement is on Siskowit Bay, being on the east shore of the island, about 50 miles distant from Eagle Harbor, on the main shore of Michigan. The other harbors are — ^Washington Harbor on the south- west, Todd's harbor on the west, and Rock Harbor and Chip- pewa Harbor on the northeast part of the island. In some places on the west are perpcriicular cliffe of greenstone, very bold, rising from the water's edge, while on the eastern shore conglomerate rock or coarse sandstone abounds, with occasional stony beach. On this coast are many islets and rocks of sand- stone, rendering navigation somewhat dangerous. Good fish- ing grounds abound all around this island, which will, no doubt, before many years, become a favorite summer resort for the invalid and sportsman, as well as the scientific tourist. f 4<< : 's I i; r 82 LAKE SUPERIOR. SisKowiT Lake is a considerable body of water lying near the center of the island, which apparently has no outlet. Other small lakes and picturesque inlets and bays abound in all parts of the island. Hills, rising from 300 to 400 feet above the waters of the lake, exist in many localities throughout the island. Fort William, an Hudson Bay Company's post, situated at the mouth of Kaministequoi River, is a very important locality. Besides the fort and Company's buildings, here is a Roman Catholic Mission and some 200 resident inhabitants of a mixed character, mostly in the employ of the gigantic Company, which here holds undisputed sway. Here commences the Portage road to Pembina and the Red River Settlement. The Kaministequoi River is a large and rapid stream, with a fall of about 200 feet perpendicular descent some 30 miles above its mouth. Canoes descended from this point in about four hours ; but the ascent is long and tedious. The river ia represented as containing many beautiful rapids and islands, also as abounding in fish of various kinds. It empties its pure waters into I'huiider Bay. The scenery around Thunder Bay is very grand, the mountains, rising 1 ,000 feet and upward above the surface of the water, have a very imposing effect. Black Bay and River is another important locality, being in part surrounded by high elevations, presenting a romantic and picturesque appearance. JS'eepigon Bay and River, situated at the north extremity of Lake Superior, is a wild and almost unknown region d country. The bay contains several islands, and the river is represented as being a large and rapid stream rising far toward the nor ! , and from thence flowing through a wilderness of great picturesque beauty. This intc with the tri tion at the "MiNNEHOI "It is con beyond Cro\ facts in regj to the nortn its adaptedn *' There h between Bri lied River o tier, sure en been from tl called Rainj itants. It ] French wore born there, by British s soil. The g earn a comf< is 460 miles Crow Wing, able commi about thirti naar a large Devil's Lake "Now let North, for i country. I connects wit sluggish sti River for ve year, so thi alone (betw< is 400 miles tributaries choicest kin tul foliage, valley (tog( ducts into genial life. "Red Ri^ vdA lies on RED RIVEU OF THE NOUTII. 83 nng near t. Other I all parts above the hout the t tuated at locality. a Roman a mixed ny, which tage road earn, with > 30 miloj in about e river i3 d islands, BS its pure mder Bay rard above ity, being romantic extremity region d e river k ar toward 38 of great RED RIVER OF THE NORTH. This interesting section of country being closely connected with the trade of the Upper Lakes, and attracting much atten- tion at the present time, we subjoin the following extract from "Minnesota and Dacofah," by C. C. Andrews — 1857 : " It is common to say that s( ttlements have not been extended beyond Crow Wing, M.n. This is only technically true. A few facts in regard to the people who live four or five hundred miles to the nortn will best illustrate the nature of the climate and its adaptedness to agriculture. *' There is a settlement at Pembina, where the dividing line between British America and the United States crosses the lied River of the North. It didn't extend there from our fron- tier, sure enough. If it extended from anywhere, it must have been from the north, or along the confine of that mystic region called Rainy Lake. Pembina is said to have about 600 inhab- itants. It is situated on the Pembina River. It is an Indian- French word meaning * Cranberry* Men live there who were born there, and it is in fact an old settlement. It was founded by British subjects, who thought they had located on British soil. The greater part of its inhabitants are half-breeds, who earn a comfortable livelihood in fur-hunting and farming. It is 460 miles northwest of St. Paul, and 330 miles distant from Crow Wing. Notwithstanding the distance, there is consider- able communication between the places. West of Pembina, about thirty miles, is a settlement callad St. Joseph, situated near a large mythological body of water called Miniwakiny or Devil's Lake. " Now let me say something about this Red River of the North, for it is beginning to be a great feature in this upper country. It runs north and empties into Lake Winnipeg, which connects with Hudson Bay by Nelson River. It is a muddy and sluggish stream, navigable to the mouth of the Sioux Wood River for vessels of three feet draught for four months in the year, so that the extent of it3 navigation within Minnesota alone (between Pembina and the mouth of Sioux Wood River) is 400 miles. Buffaloes still feed on its western banks. Its tributaries are numerous and copious, abounding with the choicest kind of game, and skirted with a various and beauti- ful foliage. It can not be many years before this magnificent valley (together with the Saskatchawan) shall pour its pro- ducts into our markets, and be the theater of a busy and genial life, " Red River Settlement is seventy miles north of Pembina, *nd lies on both sides of the river. Its population is estimated -U * -'^"^ ■^ W' n lil. ili il '''■.«; 84 HUDSON BAV COMPANY.. at 10,000 souls. It < /Wed i\n >T'icr,A &v\ growtJi o the enterprise and success of the Hu'^son C&y CJompany. Mt ^ y of tLe settlers came from Scotland, but tii ja' u" d company, and their successors, the sole trade and C(»ni>u3r.v: of all those seas, straits, bays, rivers, lakes, creeks and LO^^r'Jn, in whatsoever latitude they shall be, that lie within the entrance of the strait commonly called Hudson Straity together witli ail the lands aiid territories upon tha countries, coasts and con- fines of the seas, bays, lakes, rivers, creeks and sounds aforesaid, that are not already actually possessed by the subjects of;' any other Christian prince or state ; with the fishery of all sorts of fish, yfhales, sturgeon, and all royal fishes in the seas, bays, inlets and rivers within the premises, and the fish therein taken, together with the royalty of the sea upon the coasts within the Umits aforesaid, and all miiies royal as well discovered as not discovered, of gold, silver, gems and precious stones, to be found or discovered within the territories, limits and places aforesaid ; and that the said land be from henceforth reckoned and reputed as one of our plantations or colonies in America called RuperVs Land. And furthermore we do grant unto the said governor and company, and their successors, that they and their success- ors, and their factors, servants, and agents for tht^m , an«l on their behalf, and not otherwise, shall forever heres fter ha"e, use and enjoy, not only the whole, entire and only trade and traffic, and the whole, entire and only liberty use an» ■ privihjge, of trading and trafficing to and from the ti jiti»ry, limits, '^m\ places aforesaid, but also the whole and ent a nr,*' ' ?! and traljic to and from all havens, bays, creeks, ri\ >, lakes, and ftcas, into which they shall find entrance or passage by water or land, out of the territories, limits and places atonfesoil, and lo and with all nations and people iTihabiting or whicli lall inhabit within the territories, limits and places aforesa,ia, and to and with all other nations inhabiting any of the coasts adjacent to the said territories, limits and places, which are not already possessed as aforesaid, or whereof the sole liberty or pnvilege of trade or traffic is not yet granted to any other of our subjects * ' Who can say what constituted Rupert's Land ; or where it was supposed to be situated ? And who can undertake to ex- plain or give a true construction of the meaning of the absurdly vague and indefinite language in which the grant in quesiion 13 supposed to be made ? " if this grant of land is worth any thing ai all, or if it con- fir ' §■ 9 ' Pi III P i..* I'll •■!;! 11 '' I 8r> HUDSON BAY COMPANY. veys any estate whatever to the Hudson Bay Company, it must be confined to those islands lying within the entrance of the strait, and can not be made to convey any other portion. ** The entrance of the strait is from the Atlantic, am^ the southern boundary of the strait is Labrador ; its coast can not be said to be within the entrance of the strait, nor can Huieon Bay, distant some 800 miles from that entrance, in the common acceptation of the term, be said to be within the entrance of the strait ; much less can the lands and shores of Hudson Bay bs said to lie within the entrance of the strait. *' If ever the claims of the Hudson Bay Company are brought before a judicial tribunal for investigation, the interpretation which shall be given this charter (if charter it is) will be in the strictest and most limited sense, and not in the enlarged and extended one which that Company have given to it. " At all events, * within the strait^ must mean such a prox- imity to the strait as would give the lands spoken of an affinity or relation to Hudson Strait, and not such lands as from their immense distance have no such geographical affinity or relation to that strait. In this case the nearest point to Hudson Bay is 700 miles, nevertheless the Hudson Bay Company set up a claim to 1,6()0 miles beyond this point— 2,200 miles from ivithin the entrance of Hudson Strait. " The immense extent of country claimed is not warranted by any possible construction of the charter, and is wholly in- consisient with the objects of a trading company, who evidently are not calculated to found kingdoms or establish states and empires. " Although Henry Hudson is supposed to be the discoverer of Hudson Bay, for he sailed into the strait that now bears his name in 1610, and perished there that year, nevertheless France laid claim to all that territory as early as 1598. In that year letters patent were granted by Henry the 4th of France to Sieur de la Roche, creating him Governor-General of Canada, Hochelaga, Terres Nueves, Labrador, and the river of the great Bay of Norrembegue. '* On the 29th April, 1627, Louis the 13th granted a charter to a company called ' Le Compagnie de la Nouvelle France,' to which company was also granted the exclusive trade and pos- session of the country called La JVouveUe France^ for a perio-l of fifteen years. Now the boundaries of ' La Nouvelle France,' as described at that time, include the whole of Hudson Strmt and Hudson Bay, and in tu,ct all that country extending to the Pacific Ocean which the Hudson Bay Company now claim. " By the treaty of Saint Germain-en-Laye in March, 1632, Charles the 1st of England resigned to Louis the 13tb of France the sovereignty of Acadia, La A'ouveUe France^ and Canada. " Some tim« English advei trading estat erected two or us one of usur scut from Ca] who destroyec ova, alleging t dominions of quently ensue taken by the in 16J6. By and they rem treaty of Utr ceded to Eng oontinued in J "Thus it i grant to the even if fliere Ryswick acti country to F ceded to Eng England clea tion of any v( To the Editor < Sir — In a much pleasu Company, ai an exclusive " The peri right in rel which hei v time that authority it sharehoUlcn trade over a the east to north only *' When y turers drav the traffic we are indi HUDSON BAY COMPANY. m I it must :e of the antl the can not Hnicon common ice of the Bay bs brought jpretation be in the 'ged and a prox- n affinity pom their r relation idson Bay set up a )m tvithin v^arranted wholly in- evidently tates and liscoverer low bears p^ertheless 1598. In e 4th of eneral of 5 river of iharter to [•ance,' to and pos- a periO'l France,' on Strait ig to the Lim. ch, 1632, if Franoe 'anada. " Sorno time about 1663, according to Charleyoix, a party of English adventurers, guided by two French deserters, built a trading establishment on Hudson Bay, and subsequently erected two or three others. This act was regarded by France as one of usurpation, and accordingly in 1686 an expedition was sent from Canada under the command of Chevalier de Troyes, who destroyed the establishments and drove away the possess- ors, alleging that the country thus occupied by them was in the duminions of the king of France. During the war that subse- quently ensued between France and England, thyse places were taken by the English, and retained until the treaty of Uyswick in 1606. By that treaty they were again restored to France, and they remained in her possession until 1714, when by the treaty of Utrecht the whole of the Hudson Bay countries were ceded to England ; since which period the whole country has continued in her possession. '' Thus it is clear that at the time when Charles made the grant to the Hudson Bay Company, it was not his to grant, even if fliere had been no doubt as to his power. The treaty of Ryswick actually destroyed the charter, by surrendering the country to France; and when by the treaty of Utrecht it was ceded to England in 1714, that country came to the crown of England clearty freed from any stipulations as to the reserva- tion of any vested or other right whatever. THE HUDSON BAT COMPANY. To the Editor of tfvA Tora/ito Globe : Sir — In a city paper, of the 29th ultimo, I have read with much pleasure some observations relative to the Hudson Bay Company, and the charter under which that Company assume ' an exclusive control over half a continent. " The period has now arrived when. Canada should assert Ker right in relation to a matter of so important a nature, and in which her vital interests are most deeply involved. And it is time that her mercantile community should inquire by what authority it is that a company, consisting of some two hundred shareholders, in the city of London, claim the exclusive right to trade over a country extending from the coast of Labrador on the east to the Pacific Ocean on the west, and bounded on the north only by the Arctic seas .' " When we know that this community of commercial adven- turers draw their wealth and influence and power solely from the traffic carried on within this immense circuit of country, we are induced to ask, how does it happen that the mercantile '^: -tr \V "' -M M 88 HUD3UN BAV COMPANY. if.. am m community of Canada, living, as it were, within the very sphere of their action, are dead to all those commercial enterprises which, for nearly a century past, has annually poured into the coffers of this monopoly a copious shower of wealth ? " The reply probably will be, * It is not that our merchants are unenterprising or unpatriotic— but as the Hudson Bay Company possRSS an exclusive right to trade throughout that country, all others are by law prohibited.' *' While I admit that this is the general impression, I contend that it is an impression designedly created and artfully main- t.iined by the Hudson Bay Company, in order that they may more be." v rely profit by the monstrous imposture. *' There was a time when a company of Canadian merchants successfully disputed the assumed claims of the Hudson Bay Company. " That which then was accomplished may now be done again. " The Northwest Company of Montreal pushed their enter- prises ^ J an extent which this chartered one of Charles the Second had never then attempted. And the Northwest Com- pany carried these enterprises into effect at a time when the means of transport were in its very infancy. The bark canoe was the only conveyance by which merchandise was conveyed from Montreal, or by which the rich productions of even in those times the mighty West were brought in return to that city. "If we draw a comparison between the manner in which that trade was carried on, and the mode in which it could now be conducted, while we can not but admire the energy and the entei'prise of the merchants of that day, wo must admit that those of the present time are enabled to enjoy advariagcs which the Northwest Company could not have dreamed of. " Where the light canoe of former tim2s could scarcely float, or where these were obliged to discharge their cargoes and em- bark them at the extremity of some portage, ships of one thou- sand tons burden now float, and a ship navigation is now opened from Montreal to half way across the continent ; instead of the canoe timidly hugging the shores of the great lakes, the steamer and propeller are now seen mid-lake pursuing their courses, undeterred by wind or wave. '* The course of trade, as conducted in those days, required two } ears' time to complete an order for goods sent by the trader in the West. The usual time for dispatching such orders was in the autumn, when vhe canoes were about to return for Mon- treal. Sometimes these orders did not arrive in time to be for- warded by the fall ships to England, in which case they had to lay over for the spring ships, or rather summer. When the goods arrived in the spring at Mouneal, they were then em- barked in canoes, and reached Lake Nippising via the Ottawa River; from French Rive to Lake Sup< Kaministequ la Pluie anc along the Li Winnipeg, ai by it to Grci and pcioss t the distance load and rel( Montreal an this traflic l dition to the: in the servic of 2,000 or B ada who wer ductions of t by the trade to circulate which a trad ** Had the is no doubt I Superior wou the portals Ic Pigeon river lock and key of their traf population a have followe( up along the was conduct* the woods th these active lively songs ( ed ; for the i directed to 1 Hudson Bay " Some ide the North wej tune of the profits of th ceeded the oi the annual ] ensuing yeai contests of t resulted in a HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 89 y sphere terprises into the erchants son Bay lOut that [ contend lly main- Dhey may lerchants ison Bay ne again, jir enter- larles the rest Com- when the irk canoe conveyed f even in that city. in which sould now y and the dmit that kgcs which cely float, IS and em- one thou- ow opened ead of the le steamer r courses, i. i-equired the trader orders was Q for Mon- 5 to be for- hey had to When the I then em- the Ottawa River ; from Lake Nippising they reached Lake Huron by the French River, thence along Lake Huron to the Ste Marie Kivor to Lake Superior; and coasting Lake Superior they reached the Kaministequoi« up the Kaministequoi to Lac la Pluie, down Lac la Pluie and the La Pluie River to the Lake of the Woods, along the Lake of the Woods to the Winnipeg, thence to Lake Winnipeg, around Lake Winnipeg to the Saskatchawan River, by it to Great Slave Lake, thtmce to the plains of Athabasca, and PCI OSS the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean, making the distance thus traveled over 4,000 miles, and having to un- load and reload their canoes at innumerable portages between Montreal and the place of their destination. In conducting this traffic 500 French voyageurs were employed, and in ad- dition to these were the numerous hunters and traders engaged in the service of this Company, in all, perhaps, to the number of 2,000 or more. And these men were all inhalntants of Ca.»i- ada who were thus early engaged in developing tht; rich pro- ductior<< of their country, and Canada at large was benefited by the trade, for the wealth it brought was freely flung back to circulate through those various industrial pursuits of life which a trade like this had called into action. ♦• Had the Northwest Company continued in existence, there is no doubt but the country along the great Lakes Huron and Superior would not now be the * terra incognifa* that it is ; the portals leading to the West, such as the KamLiist( quoi and Pigeon rivers, would not have been closed, as it were, under lock and key, but the voyageurs making these the thoroughfare of their traffic would have speedily opened out tlie country to population and production, other traders or mei'chants would have followed in their wake, and settlements would have sprung up along the channel down which this vast and important trade was conducted, by Canadian enterprise alone. The waters and the woods that were then enlivened by the stir and bustle of these active and enterprising merchants, and cheered by the lively songs of the happy voyageur, are now silent and desert- ed ; for the whole of the trade of that western country is now directed to the shores of Hudson Bay, there to be stowed in Hudson Bay Company's ships for the city of London. " Some idea may be formed of the magnitude of the trade of the Northwest Company by these facts. In four years from the time of the formation of that Company, the net return of the profits of that year was £60,000, a sum of money which ex- ceeded the original capital invested. Li three years afterward, the annual net profits had amounted to <£ 150 ,000; and each ensuing year these profits were annually increasing, until the contests of the two companies led to open warfare, and this resulted in a union of interests. 8» 0\t HUDSON BAT Cu^Ia.. r. ** The Hudson Bay Company, however, had in fact been (riyen from all commercial rivalry, and it was only when they /ound that neither fraud nor force in Canada, nor courtly favor nor parliamentary influence in England, could succeed in driving the Northwest Company from their pretended teniture, they offered to compromise their disputes, and proposed to share with the Northwest Company of Montreal their imaginary privileges, in order that all other adventurers to that country should be excluded a participation in the spoils. '* It was thus that the Hudson Bay Company bribed the rivals whom they could not defeat, and tb 7i Northwest Company sub- scribed to the existence of claims or nghts which they had heretofore defied and disputed, fortified by the opinions of such men as Lord Brougham, Sir Vickery Gibbs, Sir Arthur Pigot, Mr. Sponkie, Mr. Braidoft, and others. ** Jmd the Hudson Bay Company dared to test the validity of their charter in a court of law, it would have been proclaimed to the world that every British subject had a right to trade and traffic, unfettered and uncontrolled, throughout that coun- try, for that the Royal Charter under which the Hudson Bay Company claimed exclusive privileges there was illegal, was null and void. *' By changing the route of transport to and from the West, the shorter and better one, ttia the Lakes, became unfrequented, and its very existence almost forgotten, and the now limited companies traded without the apprehension of exciting the rivalry of others. " Their trade was kept a secret — no one witnessed the pass* age of imports upward, nor the productions downward from hunting-grounds, claimed by a company irresponsible to any law, or to any country. So secret even now are all the opera- tions of that Company, that the furs taken within ninety miles of Penetanguishene are transported to Lake Superior, thence to Hudson Bay for shipment to London. " The very productions of our own country are sold here in Toronto, after having been purchased at the Hudson Bay House in liondon by our merchants. ** The very employ 6b of the Hudson Bay Company, who are engaged in the Orkney Islands at low wages, are taken to Lake Superior via Hudson Bay, lest these men should learn that they could engage elsewhere at higher wages, which they would do if taken to Lake Superior via the St. Lawrence route. Within these few years past, since the mining interests have awakened attention to Lake Superior, these men frequently leave the em- ployment of the Hudson Bay Company, and such acts are de* nominated by the Company's agents * desertion," and they are often arbitrarily imprisoned. «♦ With thij as the merits ers to take tl section of Bi about 350,0(X denominated portion will \\ miles, and to which for yea and blighting "Two hui bond or tie ol to hold four their hunting one million f< rials which wealth. Bef capabilities a try for agrici sess, I propoj of the Iludso] " Hudson in 1610. It breadth, wit tween the p tent is about are generall The bay is i greater par fields of ice. from 100° t< prising; th<= 140°. Tht which is ab with an intr principal bj Bay, on th( Button's Ba terfield Inl( the interior Ttrritories. HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 01 n ('men sy /oond ivor nor driving ire, they share aginary country he rivals any sub- hey had of such ir Pigot, ilidity of 'oclaimed to trade lat coun- ison Bay egal, was the West, equented, w limited iting the the pass* ord from le to any he opera- lety miles )r, thence d here in tay House , who are a to Lake that they would do Within iwakcned B the em- 3 are de- they are " With this ?ntroduction, which is very far from being such as the merits of the subject require, let me now ask your read- ers to take the map of North America, trace the lines of that section of British North America styled Canada, containing about 350,0(X) square miles, then compare it with that which is denominated the Territories of the Hudson Bay Company, this portion will be found to comprise ahont four mi/lions of square miles, and to this roust be added very large portions of Canada which for years past have been subjected to tne despotic control and blighting influences of this monstrous monopoly. " Two hundred stockholders in London, without a single bond or tie of any nature to the true interests of Canada, claim to hold four millions of square miles in British America as their hunting-grounds. Of these four millions of square miles, one million four hundred thousand abound in all those mate- rials which can contribute to agricultural and to natural wealth. Before, however, entering upon the subject of the capabilities and advantages which those sections )f our coun- try for agricultural, mechanical, and mercantile parsuits pos« sess, I propose to show what, in fact, is this supposed charter of the Hudson Bay Company Huron." " Hudson Bay, or Sea, was discovered by Henry Hudson in 1610. It is about 900 miles in length, by 000 at its greatest breadth, with a surrounding coast of 3,000 miles. It lies be- tween the parallels of 61° and 05° north latitude, and in ex- tent is about six times as large as Lake Superior. The coasts are generally high, rocky, rugged, and sometimes precipitous. The bay is navigable for a few months in summer, but for the greater part of the remainder of the year is filled up with fields of ice. The transitions of the thermometer in summer are from 100° to 40** in two days, and the torrents of rain are sur- prising ; the range of the thermometer throughout the year is 140°. Tht sea is entered by Hudson Strait, on the northeast, which is about 500 miles long, with a varying breadth, and with an intricate navigation obstructed by several islands. The principal bays and inletfi in this great inland sea are, James' Bay, on the southeast, which is 240 miles long by 140 wide ; Button's Bay and Port Nelson on the western coast, and Ches- terfield Inlet on the northwest, which, after stretching far into the interior, terminates in a fresh-water lake." — Hudson Bay Territories, by R. M. Martin, Esq. h4 ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ■ 50 "^^ |25 ■^ 1^ i2.2 - li 1.8 i m lU Wuu m 1.25 1 1.4 1 ,.6 < 6" > pm y vl 7 /A ff> .-> '•^ '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 4c^ ^ >^/'^q\ <^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ■^^ ^>^^ *>'% 92 LAKE SUPERIOR. W m Ste 1j3nace Island is a large and bold extent of land lying on the north shore of Lake Superior, forming, with other islands, the outward barrier to Neepigon Bay. Here may be seen mountains rising from 1,000 to 1,300 feet above the lake. Cop- per and other minerals abound in this region. The Slate Islands, lying east of Ste Ignace, are also large bodies of land, lying some 10 or 12 miles south of the main shore, which is bold and precipitous, and supposed to abound with copper ore and other minerals. Pic Island and River lie still farther east. At the mouth of the river is situated a post of the Hudson Bay Company. This is a large stream, affording six feet of water over the bar at its mouth. MiCHipicoTEN Island is a large and bold body of land; in some places the surface rises 800 feet above the waters of the lake. The shores abound with greenstone and amygdaloid, while in the interior is found copper and silver ores. Here was located the Lake Superior Silver Mining Company of Canada. MiCHipicoTEN Harbor and River is another favorable and important locality. The river is navigable to the falls, 15 miles. It rises near the source of Moose River, which empties into James' Bay. In this vicinity are found iron and copper ore of good quality. At the mouth of the river is situated a post of the Hudson Bay Company, from whence the Portage road extends northward about 300 miles to James' Bay, on the south end of Hudson Bay. This road has "been traveled in six days from Lake Superior to Moose Fort, situated on James' Bay, although the usual time is from eight to ten days. A chain of forts or trading-houses is passed along this line, situated for the most part on Moose River, emptying into the head of James' Bay, near 52° N. lat. The time, no doubt, will soon arrive, when the Canadian public will claim this route for the purpose of trade and commerce, it forming a most direct communication between the Arctic Ocean, Hudson Bay, Lake Superior, and the lower lakes. Two Gram LAKE SUPERIOR. 9S nd lying islands, be seen Cop. e. Iso large he main abound le mouth ompany. ' the bar land; in rs of the jrgdaloid, Here was !)anada. favorable J falls, 16 ti empties I quality, dson Bay orthward r Hudson Superior 3ual time ig-houses )n Moose 1° N. lat. in public merce, it 9 Arctic :es. Montreal Island and River is ap.other locality south of Michipicoten, which abounds in minerals of different kinds. Caribou is a small island lying about 30 miles south of Michipicoten, near the middle of the lake. It is usually passed in sight when the steamers return along the north shore on pleasure excursions In order to give an idea of these magnificent excursions, we copy the following advertisement which appeared in a Cleveland piper in August, 1856 : Two Grand Pleasure Excursions around Lake Superior. The new, staunch, upper-cabin and low-pressure steamer Planet, Capt. Joseph Nicholson, will make two pleasure excur- sions to Lake Superior, as follows : First.— Leave Cleveland on Monday, August 18th, and De- troit on Tuesday, August 19th. Second. — Leave Cleveland on Thursday, August 28th, and Detroit on Friday, August 29th ; touching at MacVinac, passing through the Saut Ste Marie ("annl, and also pass in view the Pictured Rocks amd Grand Island by daylight; visit Marquette (the iron region), Cop- per Harbor, Eagle Harbor, Eagle River, Ontonagon (the copper region), La Pointe (the fairy region) — thence passing over to Pigeon Bay, Prince's Bay, Pie Island, and Isle Roy ale, on the north she re, and returning by the south shore. A fine view of the Michipicoten and Caribou islands is also obtained. The Planet is new, 1,200 tons burden, low-pressure engine of 1,000 horse-power; has an upper cabin 210 feet long, and splendid accommodations for 300 passengers, but on these trips, that they may be in fact, as well as in name. Pleasure Excur- sions, the number will be limited to lib. A good band of music will be in atteftdance to enliven the scene, and no expense will be spared to make theso excursions the most agreeable that have been made to Lake Si'pcrlor. The price of tickets for the excursion round will be Forty Dollars from Cleveland, and Thirty-six Dollars from Detroit. Those wishing to remain over one trip can do so, an I return the second trip of the Planet^ without extra charge. E. B. Ward, Detroit. PI y 1- \ 1. :*M - ^>t ;^- !'6 " *! r Ml I ii <> >' «S J I' 1 f 1 "1 ! !'■; 11 ; ■ :, 94 LAKE SUPERIOR. NOETHEEJ^J SHOEE OF LAKE SUPEEIOE. Extract from Report on the Geology of the Lake Siq)erior Country, by Foster and Whitney : North er;v Shore. — *' Beginning at Pigeon Bay, the bound- ary between the United States and the British Possessions (north latitude 48°), we find the eastern portion of the penin- sula abounds with bold, rocky cliflFs, consisting of trap and red granite. "The Falls of Pigeon River, eighty or ninety feet in height, are occasioned by a trap dyke which cuts through a series of slate rocks highly indurated, and very similar !n miner alogical characters to the old graywacke group. Trap dykes and in- terlaminated masses of traps were observed in the slate near the falls. *' The base of nearly all the ridges and clififs between Pigeon River and Fort William (situated at the mouth of Kaministequoi River, the western boundary of Upper Canada) is made up of these slates, and the overlaying trap. Some of the low islands exhibit only the gray grits and slates. Welcome Islands, in Thunder Bay, display no traps, although, in the distance, they resemble igneous products, the joints being more obvious than the planes of stratification, thus giving a rude semi>columnar aspect to the clififs. ** At Prince's Bay, and also along the chain of islands which lines the coast, including Spar, Victoria, and Pie islands, the slates with the crowning traps are admirably displayed. At the British and North American Company's works the slates are traversed by a heavy vein of calc-spar and amethystine quartz, yielding gray sulphuret and pyritous copper and galena. From the vein where it cuts the overlaying trap on the main shore, considerable silver has been extracted. " At Thunder Cape, the slates form one of the most pictur- esque headlands on the whole coast of Lake Superior. They are made up of variously colored beds, such as compose the up- per group of Mr. Logan, and repose in a n-^arly horizontal po- sition. These detrital rocks attain a thickness of nearly a thousand feet, and are crowned with a sheet of trappean rocks, three hundred feet in thickness. " At L'Anse tk la Boufeille (opposite the Slate Islands, on the north shore of Lake Superior) the slates re-appear, with the granite protruding through them, and occupy the coast for fif- teen miles; numerous dykes of greenstone, bearing east and west, are seen cutting the rocks vertically. The Slate Islands form a part of this group, and derive their name from their geological structure LAKK SUPKKIOR. 95 ** They are next seen, according to Mr. Logan, for about seven miles on each side of the Old Pic River. Near Otterhead a gneissoidal rock forms the coast, which presents a remarkable regular set of strata, in which the constituents of syenite are arranged in thin sheets and in a highly crystalline condition. From this point to the Michipicoten River the slates and gran- ite occupy alternate reaches, along the coast, for ihe distance of fifty miles. * With the exception of a few square miles of the upper trap of gargantua, these two rocks appear to bold the coast all the way to the vicinity of Pointe aux Mine, at the extremity of which they separate from the shore, maintaining a nearly straight southeasterly line across the Batchewanung Bay, leaving the trap of Mamainse between them and the lake. Thence they reach the northern part of Goulais Bay, and finally attain the promontory of Gros Cap, where they consti- tute a moderately bold range of hills, running eastwardly toward Lake Huron.' "* FISHERIES OF LAKE SUPERIOR. Good fishing-grounds occur all along the north shore of Lake Superior, affording a bountiful supply of white fish, Mackinac trout, and many other species of the finny tribe. On the south shore there are fisheries at White Fish Point, Grand Island, near the Pictured Rocks, Keweenaw Point, La Pointe, and Apostles' Islands, and at different stati' - on Isle Roy ale, where large quantities are taken and exported; but there are do reliable statistics as to the number of men employed or the number of barrels exported. Between* the head of Keweenaw Point and the mouth of the Ontonagon River, considerable quantities of fish are taken, for which there i? a ready market at the mining stations. In addition to the white fish and Mackinac trout, the siskawit is occasionally taken. Its favorite resort, however, is the de^ water in the vicinity of Me Royale. Lake Superior Trout-Fishing in Winter.— The Lake Superior Journal ?ays : " Angling through the ice to a depth of thirty fathoms of ?*?■?' In*'- k\ « » ^*"% -in 'i J si 'l.f^ V- .41 ''A ' 1 * Canadian Report, 1846-7. 96 LAKE SUPERIOR. H fr ili!;r: m water is a novel mode of fishing somewhat peculiar to this peculiar region of the world. It is carrying the war into fish- dom with a vengeance, and is denounced, no doubt, in the cora- rnunities on the bottom of these northern lakes as a scaly piece of warfare. The large and splendid salmon- trout of these waters have no peace ; in the summer they are enticed into the deceitful meshes of the gill -net, and in the winter, when they hide themselves in the deep caverns of the lakes, with fifty fathoms of water above their heads, and a defense of ice two or three feet in thickness on the top of that, they are tempted to destruction by the fatal hook. " Large numbers of these trout arc caught every winter in this way on Lake Superior ; the Indian, always skilled in the fishing business, knows exactly where to find them and how to kill them. The whites make excursions out on the lake in pleasanv weather to enjoy this sport. There is a favorite resort for both fish and fishermen near Gros Cap, at the entrance of Lake Superior, through the rocky gateway between Gros Cai> and Point Iroquois, about 18 miles above the Saut, and many a large trout, at this point, is pulled up from its warm bed at the bottom of the lake, in winter, and made to bite the cold ice in this upper world. To see one of these fine fish, four or five feet in length, and weighing half as much as a man, floundering on the snow and ice, weltering and freezing to death in its own blood, oftentimes moves the heart of the fisherman to expres- sions of pity. " The modus operandi in this kind of great trout-fishing is novel in the extreme, and could a stranger to the business over- look at a distance a party engaged in the sport, he would cer- tainly think they were mad, or each one making foot-races against time. A hole is made through the ice, smooth and round, and the fisherman drops down his large hook, baited with a small herring, pork, or other meat, and when he ascer- tains the right depth, he waits — with fisherman's luck— some time for a bite, which in this case is a pull altogether, for the fisherman throws the line over his shoulder, and walks from the hole at the top of his speed till the fish bounds out on the ice. We have known of as many as fifty of these splendid trout caught in this way by a single fisherman in a single day ; it is thus a great source of pleasure and a valuable resource of food, especially in Lent, and the most scrupulous anti-pork believers might here * down pork and up fish* without any offense to con- science. » m ■t'S'l CHICAGO. * '■! The City of Chicago is advantageously situated on the west Me of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of Chicago River, in N. lat. 41° 52', and W. ""ong. from Greenwich 87^ 35'. It is ele- vated six to eight feet above the lake, which secures it from ordinp.i-y floods, and extends westward on both sides of the river, about two miles distant from its entrance into Lake Michigan, the front on the lake being three or four miles from north to south. The harbor has a depth of from twelve to four- teen feet of water, which makes it a commodious and safe haven ; and it has been much improved artificially by the con- struction of piers, which extend on each side of the entrance of the river for some distance into the lake, to prevent the accu- mulation of sand upon the bar. The light-house is on the south side of the harbor, and shows a fi^ed light on a tower forty feet above the surface of the lake ; there is also a beacon-light on the end of the pier. In a naval and military point of view, this is one of the most important ports on the upper lakes, and should be strongly defended, it being the " Odessa" of these inland seas. The city contains a court-house, the county buildings, Rush Medical College, a commercial college, a marine hospital, a United States land-office, market houses, sixty churches, eight hanks, several fire and marine insurance companies, and a number of large hotels ; gas-works, and water- works. The manufacturing establishments of Chicago are numerous and extensive, consisting of iron-foundries and machine shops, rail- road car manufactory, steam saw, planing, and flouring mills, manufactories of agricultural implements, etc. Numerous steamers and propellers ply between this place and Saut Ste Marie, Lake Superior ports, CoUingwood, Detroit, Buffalo, and the various intermediate ports. Estimated population in 1856, 100,000. 9 i ,.« t>.^; 4" 08 CHICAGO. m H-' m TliG ininou and Michigan Canal ^ connecting Lake Michigan with Illinois River, which is 60 feet wide at the top, 6 feet deep, and 107 miles in length, including five miles of river navigation, terminates here, through which brought a large amount of produce from the south and southwest ; and the numerous rail- roads radiating from Chicago add to the vast accumubition which is here shipped for the Atlantic sea-board. Chicngo being within a short distance of the most extensive coal-fielils to be fuund in Illinois, and the pineries of Michigan and Win- consiu, as well as surrounded by the finest grain region on tli} face of the globe, makes it the natural outlet for the varied nnd rich produce of an immense ?^ection of fertile country. RAILUOADS DIVERGING FROM CHICAGO. Miles. 1 . Chicago and Milwaukee 85 2. Chicago, St. Paul and Fond du Lac* i . , 3(10 3. Fox River Valley and Wisconsin Central* 75 4. Galena and Chicago Union, (to Dunleith) 18» Beloit Branch, and Beloit and Madison. 6. Chicago, Fulton and Iowa Air Line 136 6. Chicago, Burlington and Quincy 210 7. Chicago and Rock Island 182 8. Chicago, Alton and St. Louis 290 9. Illinois Central — Chicago Branchf 805 10. Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne and Chicago* 470 11. Cincinnati, Peru and Chicago* 87 12. Michigan Southern and Northern Indiana 247 13. Michigan Central (and New Albany and Salem) 282 Total. 2,997 * Unfinished railroads. t At this time the Illinois Central Railroad is the means of connecting Chicago with Cairo and St. Louis on the south, and with Galena and Dunleith on the west, forming a total line of road of 722 miles, as f9llow8: ILLINOIS CENTEAL EAILEOAD— AND ITS BBANC£1». Cairo to Laaalle— Main I'.ue 808 miles. LasE to Dunleith— Galena Branch , 147 " Chicugo to Centralia— Chicago Branch 267 " Total 722 miles. PKOGl Total numl Illinois n Increase in Increase in per year Total earni cage for Increase of Population Total rece bushels Total rec( grain j crease i Total shi] for the Total am< Total am' Total nu inChi( Total nu Averagii price receive Number ^5^SlfrffsM35SS uiiiCAOo 09 ke Michigan 6 feet (Jeep, navigation, e amount of merous rail- ccuDiul'ition Chicfigo ^e coal-fieMs an and Wis. egion on tli3 varied jind y. 0. Miles. Ho ■sm Id m 210 182 m 805 470 87 247 282 2,997 f connecting Galena and > a8f9llow8: . 808 miles. . 147 " . 267 " . 722 miles. riCOGRESS OF CHICAGO AND THE GREAT WEST. " TwKNTY years ago the city of Chicago, Illinois, was an in- gignificant town at the southern end of Lake Michigan ; now, her granaries, her storehouses, her railroad depots, and her private dwellings are scarcely surpassed by thosa of any city in the Union for their solidity, enormous dimensions, and their unexampled cost, giving evidence of rapid wealth, caused by her lake commerce and her railroad concentrations. " The * Democratic Press* of that city has just made uj its annual statistical statement of the progress of Chicago, and from it we copy the annexed siatistics, which the editor says may be relied on. It is headed * Fifth annual review of the pro^^peots, condition, traffic, etc., of the railroads centering in Chicago, with a general summary of the business of the city for 18'>*3.' GENERAL HVTj,i,jARY. Total number of miles of railway in the State of Illinois now in operation 2,761 Increase in 1856. . .- 351 Increase in the State in five years (over 600 miles per year) 2,666 Total earnings of all the railways centering in Chi- cago for the year 1856 $17,343,242 Increase of 185(5 over 1855 $4,045,041 Population of Chicago in 1850 29,963 in 1862 38,783 in 1854 74,500 " in 1865 82,750 " January 1, 1857 (estimated) 110,000 Total receipts of grain in Chicago for the year 1855, bushels 20,487,953 Total receip ;s of grain, being the largest primary grain port in the world, for the year 1856 (in- crease in 1856 over 20 per cent.), bushels 24,674,824 Total shipments of grain from the port of Chicago for the year 1856, bushels 21,583,221 Total amount of corn received in 1856, bushels. . . . 11,888.398 Total amount of wheat received in 1856, bushels . . 9,392,365 Total number of hogs, alive and dressed, received in Chicago for 1855-56 308,539 Total number of shipments, alive and dressed. .... 170,831 Averaging the weight at only 200 pounds, and the price at $5 per hundred, the value of the hogs received would be $3,585,880 Number of barrels of beef packed in 1856 33,038 % P ' i'ifi 11^^^ 100 CHICAGO. Receipts of Inmber at the port of Chicago for the year IHiV), being the largest lumber market in the world, feet 450,678,109 Receipts of lead for the year I806, pounds 9,527,600 Now laid up in the port of Chicago, steamers and sail vessels 245 Total number of vessels arriving in Chicago for the year 185(> ! . . . . 7,328 Total tonnage of vessels arriving in tliis port for the year 1850 1,545,379 Amount of imposts received at the Chicago custom- house on foreign goods for the past year $102,994 Total amount 01 capital invested in manufactures during the year 1856, showing an increase of $1,464,400 over 1855 $7,759,40C Total number of hands employed, showing an in- crease over 1855 of 1,838 10,573 Total value of manufactured articles, showing an increase of $4,483,572 $15,515,002 Total amount invested during the year 1856 in im- provements, stores, dwellings, hotels, etc., show- ing an increase over 1855 of $1,973,370 $5,708,024 Total number of passengers carried west by four principal railways leading out of Chicago 039,006 Total number remaining west above those who ro- • turned on these four lines 107,653 Total number of passengery moved on all the roads centering in Chicago 3,850,000 " The editor remarks, in conclusion : * The total movement on the principal railway lines centering at Chicago would be about 3,350,000 passengers. " The above facta and figures will be regarded with special satisfaction by all our citizens, and by the people of the North- west generally. They show a healthy, but rapid and most astonishing progress. It may be doubted whether the whole history of the civilized world can furnish a parallel to the vig- orous growth and rapid development of the country which has Chicago for its commercial metropolis. When it is remembered that twenty years ago she was not an incorporated city, and loss than a quarter of a century since the Indians still had possession of the largest portion of this magnificent country, these facts, stubborn and incontestable though they be, seem more like the dreams of some vagrant imagination than sober matters of reality, which scores of men still among us have themselves seen and realized.'* P0RT3 OF Michigan Lake Miohig 228 miles fi 071 d Salem place, conne eral plank ] cros.sing the several larg( intended for duce; 15 or a branch of 1831, with 1 porium of ti ilie rapid ii have not b< itants, and New Bui boat route, road, 218 m house and j and lake ci inhabitants rounded bj east and soi St. JosEi on the east River, 194 : ing about inhabitant! active trad place, most 70 miles b PORTS OF LAKE MICHIGAN. 101 PORTS OF LAKE MICIIIOAL LYING ON THE EAST AND SOUTH 8IIOISE8. Michigan City, Ind., situated at the extreme south end of Lake Michigan, is distant 45 miles from Chicago by water, and 2-8 miles from Detroit by railroad route. The J\''ew Albany and Salem Railroad^ 228 miles in length, torminatoa at this place, connecting with the Michigan Central Railroad. Sev- eral plank roads also terminate here, affording facilities for crossing the extensive prairies lying in the rear. Here are several large storehouses situated at the mouth of Trail Creek, intended for the storage and shipment of wheat and other pro- duce; 15 or 20 stores of different kinds, several hotels, and a branch of the State Bank of Indiana. It was first settled in 1831, with the expectation that it would become a great em- porium of trade ; but owing to the want '^f a good harbor, and the rapid increase of Chicago, the expectation of its founders have not been realized. It now contains about 3,000 inhab- itants, and is steadily increasing in wealth and numbers. New Buffalo, Mioh., lying 50 miles east Chicago by steam- boat route, is situated on the line of the Michigan Central Rail- road, 218 miles west of Detroit. Here has been erected a light- house and pier, the latter affording a good landing for steamers and lake craft. The settlement contains two or three hundred inhabitants, and several stores and storehouses. It is sur- rounded by a light, sandy soil, which abounds all along the east and south shores of Lake Michigan. St. Joseph, Berrien Co., Mich., is advantageously situated on the east shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of St. Joseph River, 194 miles west of Detroit. Here is a good harbor, afford- ing about 10 feet of water. The village contains about 1,000 inhabitants, and a number of stores and storehouses. An active trade in lumber, grain, and fruit is carried on at this place, mostly with the Chicago market, it being distant about 70 miles by water. Steamers of a small class run from St. 9* ,'r*i U ■■\l i-M :fj I' ft;* di»i I' 102 PORTS OF LAKE MICHIGAN, Joseph to Nilcs and Constantino, a distance of 120 miles, to ivliich place the St. Joseph River is navigable. Stages also run to Niles and Dowagiac, connecting with trains on the Michigan Central Railroad. St. Joseph River rises in the southern portion of Michigan and Northern Indiana, and is about 250 miles long. Its general course is nearly westward ; is very serpentine, with an equable current, and flowing through a fertile section of country. There are to bo found several flourishing villages on its banks. The principal are Constantino, Elkhart, South Bend, Niles, and Berrien. NiLKs, situated on St. Joseph River, is 2G miles above its mouth by land, and 191 miles from Detroit by railroad route. This is a flourishing village, containing about 3,000 inhab- itants, five churches, three hotels, several large stores and flour- ing mills ; the country around producing large quantities of wheat and other kinds of grain. A small class of steamers run to St. Joseph below and other places above, on the river, afford- ing great facilities to trade in this section of country. The Ports extending from Grand Haven to Saginaw Bay are fully described in another portion of this work, as well as the bays and rivers falling into Lakes Michigan and Huron. 20 miles, to fes also run 10 Michigan [f Michigan Its general an equable ttry. TJiere knks. The Niles, and 3 above its road route. 000 inhab- s and flour- lantities of earners run iver, afford- Eiw Bay are well as the iron. TIIIP FIIOM CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STR MARIE. On starting from the steamboat wharf near the mouth of the rhicap^o Hiver, the Marine Hospital and depot of the Illino'fi (entrnl Railroad arc passed on the right, while the Lake Hous? and lumber-yards are seen on the left or north side of the sfream. The government piers, long wooden structures, afford a good entrance to the harbor; a light-house has been con- structed on the outer end of the north pier, to guide vessels to the port. The basin completed by the Illinois Central Railroad to facili- tate commerce is a substantial work, extending southward for near half a mile. It affords ample accommodation for loading and unloading vessels, and transferring the freight to and from the railroad cars. The number of steamers, propellers, and sailing vessels annually arriving and departing from the harbor of Chicago is very great ; the carrying trade being destined to increase in proportionate ratio with the population and wealth pouring into this favored section of the Union. On reaching the green waters of Lake Michigan, the city of Chicago is seen stretching along the shore for four or five miles, presenting a fine appearance from the deck of the steamer. Tlie entrance to the harbor at the bar is about 200 feet wide. The bar has from ten to twelve feet water, the lake being sub- ject to about two feet rise and fall. The steamers bound for Milwaukee and the northern ports usually run along the west shore of the lake within sight of land, the banks rising from thirty to fifty feet above the water.* * The thermometer stood at 70° Fahrenheit, Sept. 26, 1854, the day being thick and foggy, with little or no wind. S^t.,.E III! I i lif«1 "^ ill'- . 104 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT 8TE MARIE. Lake Michigan is about seventy miles average width, and 340 miles in extent from Michigan City, Ind., on the south, to the Strait of Mackinac on the north ; it presents a great expanse of water, now traversed by steamers and other vessels of a large class running to the Saut Ste Marie and Lake Superior; to CoUingwood, Can. ; to Detroit, Mich, ; to Cleveland Ohio ; and to Buffalo, N. Y. From Chicago to Buffalo the distance is about 1,000 miles by water; while from Chicago to Superior City, at the head ef Lake Superior, or Fond du I-ac, the dis- tance is about the same, thus affording two excursions of 1 ,000 miles eaoh over four of the great lakes or inland seas of America, in steamers of from 1,000 to 2,000 tons burden. During the summer and early autumn months the waters of this lake arc comparatively calm, affording safe navigation. But late in the year, and during the winter and early spring months, the navigation of this and the other great lakes is very dan- gerous. WAUKEGANy Lake Co., 111., 36 miles north of Chicago, is hand- somely situated on elevated ground, gradually rising to 50 or 60 feet above the water. Here are v wo piers, a light-house, several large storehouses, and a neat and thriving town containing about 6,000 inhabitants, six churches, a bank, several well-kept hotels, thirty stores, and two steam-flouring mills. Kenos^.a, Wis., 62 miles from Chicago, is elevated 30 or 40 feet above the lake. Here is a small harbor, a light-house, storehouses, mills, etc. The town has a populate, n of about 6,000 inhabitants, surrounded by a fine back country. Here is a good hotel, ^ bank, several churches, and a number of stores and manufacturing establishments doing a large amount of business. The Kenaha and Beloit Railroad^ when finished, win connect at the latter place with a railroad running to Madi- son, and thence to the Mississippi River. The City of Racine, Wis., 62 miles from Chicago and 25 miles south of Milwaukee, is built on an elevation some forty or fifty feet above the surface of the lake. It is a handsome and flourishing place. Here is a light-house, piers, storehouses, 'E MARIE. CHICAGO TO MACKrNAC AND 8AUT STE MARIK. 105 etc., situated near the water, ■while the city contains some fin^ public buildings and private residences. The population is about 9,000, and is rapidly increasing. Racine is the second city in the State in commerce and population, and possesses a fine harbor. Here are located the county buildings, fourteen churches, several hotels, and numerous stores of different kinds. The Racine and Mississippi Railroad Ktending from this place to Beloit, 68 miles, will be continued to the Mississippi River at Savanna. The Chicago and Milwaukee Railroad also runs through the town. The City of Milvtaukee, Wis., 86 miles from Chicago, by railroad and steamboat rente, is handsomely situated on rising ground on both sides of the Milwaukee Rfver, at its entrance into Lake Michigan. In front of the city is a bay or indentation of the lake, affording a good harbor, except in strong easterly gales. The harbor is now being improved, and will doubtless be rendered secure at all times of the season. The river affords an extensive water-power, capable of giving motion to ma- chinery of almost any required amount. The city is built upon beautiful slopes, descending toward the river and lake. It has a court-house, city hall, a United States land-office, the Uni- versity Institute, a college for females, three academies, three oi-phan asylums, thirty churches, several well-kept hotels, ex- tensive ranges of stores, and several large manufacturing estab- lishments. The city is lighted with gas, and well supplied with good water. Its exports of lumber, agricultural produce, etc., are immense, giving profitable employment to a large number of steamers and other lake craft, running to different ports on the upper lakes, Detroit, Buffalo, etc. The growth of this city has been astonishing ; twenty years since its site was a wilder- ness ; now it contains over 30,000 inhabitants, and of a class in- ferior to no section of the Union for intelligence, sobriety, and industry. The future of Milwaukee it is hard to predict ; here are cen- tering numerous railroads finished and in course of construc- tion, extending south to Chicago, west to the Mississippi River, V ! ' % » *i ^ J'l 106 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. CHICAOC ».«;■ i ! and north to Lake Superior, which in connection ^th the De- troit and Milwaukee Railroad, terminating at Grand Haven, 80 miles distant by water, and the lines of steamers running to this port, will altogether give an impetus to this favored city, blessed with a good climate and soil, which the future alone can reveal. During the past year an unusual number of fine buildings have been erected, and the commerce of the port has amounted to $60,000,000. The bay of Milwaukee offers the best advant- ages for the construction of a harbor of refuge of any point on Lake Michigan. The city has expended over $100,000 in the oonstruction of a harbor ; this needs extension and completion, which will no doubt be eflFected. Port Washington, Ozaukee Co., Wis., 25 miles north of Milwaukee, is a flourishing place, and capital of the county. The village contains besides the public build ings. several churches and hotels, twelve stores, three mills, an iron foundry, two breweries and other manufactories. The population is about 2,500. Here is a good steamboat landing, from which large quantities of produce are annually shipped to Chicago and other lake ports. The unfortunate steamer Niagara, while on her passage from Collingwood to Chicago, was destroyed by fire oflf Port Wash- ington in September, 1856, whereby sixty lives were lost Sheboygan, Wis., 50 miles north of Milwaukee and 130 miles from Chicago, is a thrivinjij place, containing about 5,000 inhabitants. Here are seven churches, several public houses and stores, together with a light-house and piers ; the harbor being improved by government works. Large quantities of lumber and agricultural products are shipped from this port. The country in the interior is fast settling with agriculturists, the soil and climate being good.* A railroad is about being con- structed from this place to Fond du Lac, 42 miles west, lying ♦ September 27, 1854, the thermometer stood at 60° Fahr., with a light wind Arom the north. at the heac extend to M west. Manitou miles east f contains ab< houses, two saw-mills, t titles of lun bor is being stormy wea The west 80 feet, pr sundry blu country, ab kinds. " Manito Michigan i rives additi it will affor bound fron southern p Two Riv new and tb (from whi( Two piers i a 8hip-yar< about 2,0( back to Gi and shipp large quai Kewab miles froi situated e Bay is sit From Ik the couni ' MARIK. mth the De- 'and Haven, s running to favored city, uture alone le buildings IS amounted est advant- ny point on ,000 in the completion, JS north of the county. igS; several on foundry, ion is about vhich large o and other issage from Port Wash- lost ie and 180 ibout 5,000 houses and rhoT being of lumber )ort. The lUrists, the being con- rest, lying with a light CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STB MARIE. 107 at the head of Lake Winnebago; also, another railroad to extend to Milwaukee on the south and Green Bay on the north- west. Manitouwoc, Wis., 70 miles north of Milwaukee and 33 miles eaflt from Green Bay, is an important shipping port. It contains about ^i,500 inhabitants ; five churches, several public houses, twelve stores, besides several storehouses ; three steam saw-mills, two ship-yards, light-house, and pier. Large quan- tities of lumber are annually shipped from this port. The har- bor is being improved so as to afford a refuge for vessels during stormy weather. The west bank of Lake Michigan is here elevated about 60 or 80 feet, presenting a rough appearance in many places, with sundry bluffs rising from the water's edge U) the level of the country, above which it is clothed with heavy timber of different kinds. " Manitouwoc is the most northern of the harbors of Lake Michigan improved by the United States government. It de- rives additional importance from the fact that, when completed, it will afford the first point of refuge from storms for shipping bound from any of the other great lakes to this or to the most southern ports of Lake Michigan." Two Rivers, Wis., eight miles north from Manitouwoc, is a new and thriving place at the entrance of the conjoined streams (from which the place takes its name) into Lake Michigan. Two piers are here erected, one on each side of the river ; also a ship-yard and three steam saw-mills. The village contains about 2,000 inhabitants. This section of country, extending back to Green Bay, abounds in good timber, which is prepared and shipped to Chicago and other ports. Fish are taken in large quantities, and sent to different markets. Kewaunee, Wis., 26 miles north of Two Rivers and 102 miles from Milwaukee, is a small shipping town, where are situated several saw-mills and lumber establishments. Green Bay is situated about 25 miles due west from this place. From Manitouwoc and Two Rivers, in a northerly direction, the country is still, for the most part, a wild wilderness, in- If ^1 i ■ f i ft* iKi -gi y 108 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND 8AUT 8TE MARIE. habited sparsely by Indians of different tribes. The following is an extract from the Manitouwoc Tribune of March, 1857 : ROMANCE OF THE FOREST. '• Some months since we gave the particulars of a horrible occmrrence which happened in our immediate neighborhood, rivaling in interest the thrilling story of the eagle's victim, on the mountain of Switzerland No traces of the child which the bear carried off in such a daring manner have as yet been found ; but the excitement which such an incident awakens is gradually dying away, and is now replaced by that of one of more recent date, scarcely less thrilling in its detail. '* Last week a Mr Woodward, living near Sandy Bay, had some difficulty with an Indian. The next day his little girl, three years of age, wps standing near the house, when an In- dian sprang out of the thickets, and clasped her in his arms, and bounded away through the underbrush. Pursuit was com- menced immediately, but up to Saturday without success, though information had been received which, it was hoped, would lead to the recovery of the child— an Indian and a squaw having been seen the day after t'e abduction carrying a child which was closely wrapped in a blanket, and was crying bitterly." On leaving Two Rivers, the steamers usually run for the Manitou Islands, Mich., a distance of about 100 mi eSc Soon after the last vestige of land sinks below the horizon on the west shore, the vision catches the dim outline of coast on the east or Michigan shore at Point aux Betsie, which is about GO miles south of the Great Manitou Island. From this point, passing northward by Sleeping Bear Point, a singular shaped headland looms up to the view. It is said to resemble a sleep- ing bear. The east shore of Lake Michigan presents a suc- cession of high Band-banks for many miles, while inland are numerous small bays and lakes. Little, or South Manitou Island, 250 miles from Chicago and 100 miles from Mackinac, lies on the Michigan side of the lake, and is the first island encountered on proceeding north- ward from Chicago. It rises abruptly on the west shore 2 or 300 feet from the water's edge, sloping toward the east shore, on which is a light-house and a fine harbor. Here steamers stoT) for wood. The Great or North Manitou is nearly twice chicag* as^ large as of land. ] principal o< steamers ai Fox IsLA three small which is he to Green Bi erse Bay, a tie Traversi Great i between th( tile bodies who have h Garden the Strait about six n the south I Ignace, on entrance o miles from Old For tion ; it wc of the stra exclusively easily reac Pte la a pictures( The Sti width, anc several im being Bois Between i Garden were still fall of the CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND BAUT STE MARIE. l09 a^ large as the former island, and contains about 14,000 acres of land. Both islands are settled by a few families, whose principal occupation is fishing and catting wood for the use of steamers and sailing vessels. Fox liiLANDs, 50 miles north from South Manitou, consist of three small islands lying near the middle of Lake Michigah} which is here about 60 miles wide. On the west is the entrance to Green Bay, and on the east is the entrance to Grand Trav- erse Bay, and immediately to the north is the entrance to Lit- tle Traverse Bay. Great and Little Beaver islands, lying about midway between the Manitou Islands and Mackinac, are large and fer- tile bodies of land, and are at present occupied by Mormons, who have here their most eastern settlement. Garden and Hog islands are next passed before reaching the Strait of Mackinac, which, opposite Old Fort Mackinac, is about six miles in width. The site of Old Fort Mackinac is on the south main or Michigan shore, directly opposite Point Ste Ignace, on the north main shore. St. Helena Island lies at the entrance of the strait from the south, distant about fifteen miles from Mackinac. Old Fort Mackinac is an important and interesting loca- tion ; it was formerly fortified and garrisoned for the protection of the strait and this section of country when inhabited almost exclusively by various tribes of Indians. This place can bo easily reached by sail-boat from the island of Mackinac. Pte la Orgs Cap, lying to the west of Old Fort Mackinac, is a picturesque headland well worthy of a visit. The Strait of Mackinac is from five to twenty miles in width, and extends east and west about thirty miles, embosoming several important islands besides Mackinac Island, the largest being Bois Blanc Island, lying near the head of Lake Huron. Between this island and the main north shore the steamer Garden City was wrecked. May 16, 1864 ; her upper works were still visible from the deck of the passing steamer in the fall of the same year 10 1 wf 'J w "k s - r VV 1-- vr-* . ■ t. "■ J r 4 ."'s >J ^i 110 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIS. « i i ,;:;i! 1 V Grcsse Ile St. Martin and lie St. Martin lie within the waters of the strait, eight or ten miles north of the island of Mackinac. In the nei|];hborhood of these different islands are the fayorite fishing-grounds both of the Indian and the " pale face." The town and fortress of Mackinac is most beautifully situ- ated on the east shore of the island, and extends for a distance of about one mile along the water's edge, and has a fine harbor protected by a water battery. This important island and fortress is situated in N. lat. 45° 54', W. Ion. 84° 30' from Greenwich, being seven degrees thirty minutes west from Washington. It is 350 miles north from Chicago, 100 miles south of Saut Ste Marie by the steamboat route, and about 300 miles northwest from Detroit. Fori Maclinac stands on eleyated ground, about 200 feet above the water, overlooking the pictur- esque town and harbor below. In the rear, about half a mile distant, stands the ruins of old Fort Holmes^ situated on the highest point of land, at an elevat'iOn of about 350 feet above the water, affording an extensive view. The town contains two churches, two hotels, ten or twelve stores, 100 dwelling-houses, and about 600 inhabitants. The climate is remarkably healthy and delightful during the summer months, when this favored retreat is usually thronged with visitors from different parts of the Union, while the Indian warriors, their squaws and their children, are seen lingering around this their favorite island and fishing-ground.* The island of Mackinac, lying in the Strait of Mackinac, is about three miles long and two miles wide. It contains many deeply interesting points of attraction in addition to the village and fortress ; the principal natural curiosities are known as the Arch Bock, Sugar Loaf, Lover's Leap, Devil's Kitchen, Robin- son's Folly, and other objects of interest well worthy the atten- tion of the tourist. The Mission House and Grove House are the principal hotels. v * Sept 28, 1854, the thermometer atood at 60O Fahr. Very pleasant we&ther with light wind, not having seen a wave break for two days. CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND 8AUT 8TE MARIE. Ill ISLAND OF MACKINAC. The view jk'iven represents the Island, approaching from the eastward. •* A cliff of limestone, white and weather-beaten, with a narrow alluvial plain skirting its base, is the first thing wlch commands attention;" but, on nearing the harbor, the village (2), with its many picturesque dwellings, and the fort- ress (3), perched near the summit of the Island, are gazed at with wonder and delight. The promontory on the left is called the " Lover's Leap" (1), skirted by a pebbly beach, extending to the village. On the right is seen a bold rocky precipice, called ** Robinson's Folly" (5), while in the same direction is a singular peak of nature called the •* Sugar Loaf" Still far- ther onward, the " Arched Rock" and other interesting sights, meet the eye of the explorer, affording pleasure and delight, particularly to the scientific traveler and lover of nature. On the highest ground, elevated about 350 feet above the waters of the Strait, is the signal station (4), situated near the ruins of old Fort Holmes. The settlement of this Island was commenced in 1764. In 1793 it was surrendered to the American government ; taken by the British in 1812 ; but restored by the treaty of Ghent, signed in November, 1814. )■ sr ^'■A J ('. •-^4 -H i CHIOAOC ri > iw Abohbd Rcjoe.— Mackinao. The wl ol< scientific ex ure. The i copied from that region " As par we would I The former, interest. 1 feet, while i ha^e fallen in a project span is aboi about ten which rises which an < clambering edges of thi «*Thebe< direct conn great depti side, and th and can m frosts, whic produce gri side now cc be destroye precipitatec " It is e\ opening, w operated wl Sreat lake i enuding a action as n on the shor scenery of tion, and ii Engraving Other pi enumerated ^chanting afford a plei ▼isitedand CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT BTS MARIE. 113 The wli ole island of Mackinac is deeply interesting to the flcientifio explorer, as well as to the seeker of health and pleas- ure. The following extract, illustrated by an engraving, is copied from " Foster and Whitney's Geological Report" of that region : " As particular examples of denuding action on the island, we would mention tho * Arched Rock' and the ' Sugar Loaf.' The former, situated on the eastern shore, is a feature of great interest. The cliffs here attain a height of nearly one hundred feet, while at the base are strowr, numerous fragments which lia'Te fallen fiom above. The Arched Rock has been excavated in a projecting angle of the limestone cliff, and the top of the !^n is about ninety feet above the lake-level, surmounted by about ten feet of rock. At tho base of a projecting angle, which rises up like a buttress, there is a small opening, through whioh an explorer may pass to the main arch, where, after clambering over the steep slope of debris and the projecting edjrcs of the strata, he reaches the brow of the cliff. ** The beds forming the summit cf the arch are cut off from direct connection with the main rock by a narrow gorge of no great depth. The portion supporting the arch on the north side, and the curve of the arch itself, are comparatively fragile, and can not, for a long period, resist the action of rains and frosts, which, in this latitude, and on a rock thus constituted, produce great ravages every season. The arch, which on one side now connects this abutment with the main cliff, will soon be destroyed, as well as the ai*:.cment itself, and the whole be precipitated into the lake. *< It is evident that the denuding action, producing such an opening, with other attendant phenomena, could only have operated while near the level of a large body of water, like the Sreat lake itself; and we find a striking similarity between the enuding action of the water here in time past, and the same action as now manifested in be range of the Pictured Rocha on the shores of Lake Superior. As an interesting point in the scenery of this island, the Arched Rock attracts much atten- tion, and in every respect is worthy of examination." ( See Engraving.) Other picturesque objects of great interest, besides those enumerated above, occur at every turn on roving about this enchanting island, where the pure, bracing air and clear waters afford a pleasurable sensation, difficult to be described, unless tisited and enjoyed. 10» 114 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND 8AUT 8TK MAUIE. M^ "i! I Rod VD Ihland ^'s a small body of land lying a short distance southeast of Mackinac, T7iiile Bois Blanc Island is a large bo I ■■'«• 5 I i' 1^' ^1 ■ 4 ' '^ .^ ilH I *A. *•' i''. i^i 118 LAKE HURON. A SUNDAY ON LAKE HURON. During the autumn of 1856 the steamer Illinois arrived at Saut Ste Marie on Saturday evening, on her return from a | trip through Lake Superior, having proceeded to La Pointe, situated on one of the " Twelve Apostles," and thence crossed over to the extreme western shore of the lake, near the mouth of Pigeon River, returning along the north or Canada shore to the Saut, with a pleasure party on board. While the steamer was detained at the wharf, below the mouth of the ship canal, most of the passengers, and many of the citizens of this ancient and romantic village, together with a few Canadians from the opposite shore, amused themselves by music and danci' j; while not a few drank deep from the in- toxicating bowl. This scene of pleasure was kept up until near midnight, when, one by one, the passengers retired to their rest, and the villagers bade adieu to their new-made and old ac- quaintances. The next morning the steamer wab coursing her way through the pure and lovely waters of the St. Mary's River, with every appearance of a fine day. After passing Sugar Island, the Nebish Rapids, and the island of St. Joseph, and entering the broad waters of Lake Huron, a most beautiful view was pre- sented to our gaze. In the rear was seen the entrance to the De Tour passage, just passed, and the British island of St. Joseph — on the north lay Drummond Island, attached to the stars and stripes, although bearing a foreign name — while in the far distance southward were seen the romantic island of Mackinac and the main shore of Michigan. At this time, the hour of breakfast having passed, the Rev. Mr. , an Episcopal minister from Ontonagon, Mich., vras invited to read the church service and preach a sermon, for the benefit of the passengers on board, among whom were persopj of different creeds and nations. Never was a discourse more appropriately selected, or received with more devout attention, LAKE HURON. 110 * i I! considering the mixed, and mostly strange, persons assembled in the after-cabin. The lake, when seen, presented a serene and quiet calmness, alono disturbed by the powerful machinery propelling us through the waters at a most rapid rate ; while the sentiments nnd rich melody of the speaker's voice lent a charm to the scene never to be forgot by many then present. Thus should it al- ways be oii a Sabbath, while journeying over these magnificent waters, if the weather will permit — blending serious thoughts with the most grand and lovely objects of nature— that pro- duced by the view of land and water, as seen at times on the great lakes of North America. A hounteous dinner was next served up, afifording delight to those blessed with good appetites ; while every passenger, male »Qd female, seemed to enjoy the scenery that during the entire day was visible from the deck of the steamer. Thunder Bay, Saginaw Bay, and Point au Barque were passed in succession— the mainland on the Canada or Michigan shore I beinj, for most of the time, seen in the far distance ; while occasionally the smoke of a passing steamer or a sail vessel caught the eye, silently gliding over the broad waters of Lake I Haron. Were it not for the almost criminal carelessness or reckless- I ness of many of the owners and masters of steamers navigating these lakes, whereby hundreds of valuable lives have been lost and millions of property destroyed, no more safe, instructive, or grand excursion could be found on the face of the globe. i 1 120 STEAMBOAT ROUTK. STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT 8TE MARIE. PASSING THROUGH Ports, etc. Chicago, 111 TVaukegan Kenosha., Wis Racine Milwaukee Port Washington Sheboygan Manitouwoc Tuw Rivers Kewaunee, (25 miles) . . . South Manitou Is. Mich. North Manitou Is Fox Islands Great Beayer Is Hog and Garden Islands Old Fort Mackinac Mackinac* Is. and town Point De Tour St. Joseph Is., C. W. ... Nebish Rapids, Sugar Island, Ohiprch^s Landing Garden River Set., C. W. Saut Ste MAHiE,Mich. LAKES MICHIGAN AND HURON. ds, ^ I, Mich. 5 • Miles. 36 62 62 86 111 136 156 173 250 260 300 316 325 340 350 396 400 420 431 435 446 Usual Fare, $8, including meals. Ports, etc. ' Miles. Saut Ste Marie Garden River Set 10 Churches Landing, ) Sugar Island, 5 Nebish Rapids 25 St. Joseph Is., C. W. . . . 26 Point De Tour 50 Mackinac, Is. and town 95 Old Fort Mackinac 105 Hog and Garden Islands 120 Great Beaver Is 130 Fox Islands . , 145 North Manitou Is 185 South Manitou Is 195 Kewaunee, Wis Two Rivers 272 Manitouwoc 289 Sheboygan 309 Port Washington 334 Milwaukee 359 Racine 383 Kenosha 393 Waukegan, HI 409 Chicago 445 Usual Time, 48 hours. lit >I!J * The steamers running fVom Detroit and CoUingwood to Oreen Bay and Chicago all stop at this port. STEAMBOAT ROUTE. 121 CINAC AND I STEAMBOAT ROUTE FEOM 8AUT 8TE MARIE TO DETROIT. PASSING THROUGH Ports, etc. S.vUT Stk Marie Garden River Set., C.W. Churches Landing Lake George Nebish Rapids St Joseph Is., C. W Mud Lake Lime Island, Mich Dnimmond Island Point De Tour, ^ Lake Huron, 5 Mackinac, (40 miles) . . . Presque Isle Thunder Bay Is Saginaw Bay Point au Barque St. Clair River, ^ Fort Gratoit, 5 Port Huron, Mich. ^ Port Sarma.C. W. 5 * St. Clair, Mich Newport Algonac St. Clair Lake Detroit River Detroit ;:s LAKES HURON AND ST. CLAIR. Miles. Ports, etc. Detroit 10 Lake St. Clair ... St. Clair Flats .... Algonac Newport St. Clair Port Sarnia, C. W. Port Huron, Mich Fort Gratiot, ^ Lake Huron, 5 Point au Barque Saginaw Bay. . . Thunder Bay Is. Presque Isle, . . . Mackinac, (70 miles) Point De Tour, St. Mary's River Drummond Island St. Joseph Island, G. W. Lime Island Mud Lake Sugar Island Lake George 14 20 24 25 80 43 48 60 105 135 ISO 210 276 277 .,!■ 294 304 310 313 843 850 Churches Landing Garden River Set., C. W. Saut Ste Marie Miles. 7 80 40 46 66 73 75 140 160' 215' 245. 300' 802' 310- 812 820 825« 830' 336 840 • 860^ to Green Ba; Fare, $7, including meals. Usual Time, 80 hours. 11 >i TRIP FROM DETROIT TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE, PASSING THROUGH LAKE HURON. During the season of navigation, steamers of a large class, with good accommodations for passengers, leave Detroit almost daily for Mackinac, for Green Bay, for Chicago, situated on Lake Michigan, or for the Saut Ste Marie ; from thence passing through the ship canal into Lake Superior, forming delightful excursions during the summer and the early autumn months. On leaving Detroit the steamers run in a northerly direction, passing Belle, or Hog Island, two miles distant, which is about three miles long and one mile broad, presenting a handsome ap- pearance. The Canadian shore on the right is studded with dwellings and well-cultivated farms. Peche Island is a small body of land attached to Canada, lying at the mouth of Detroit River, opposite which, on the Michigan shore, is Wind Mill Point and light-house. Lake St. Clair commences seven miles above Detroit; it may be said to be 20 miles long and 25 miles wide, measuring its length from the outlet of St. Clair River to the head of De- troit River. Compared with the other lakes it is very shallow, having a depth of only from 8 to 24 feet, as indicated by Bay- field's chart. It receives the waters of the Upper Lakes from the St. Clair Strait by several channels forming islands, and discharges them into the Detroit River or Strait. In the upper portion of the lake are several extensive islands, the largest of which is Walpole Maud ; it belongs to Canada, and is inhab- ited mostly by Indians. All the islands to the west of Walpole Island belong to Michigan. The Walpole, or " Old Ship Chan- nel," forms the boundary between the United Stat(« and Can- ada. The main channel, now used by the larger class of ves- sels, is called the " North Channel." Here are passed the *' St. Clair Flats," a great impediment to navigation, for the removal i. • DETROIT TO MACKINAC AND 8AUT STE MARIE. 123 lil'^l^tff of which Congress will no doubt make ample appropriation sooner oi' later. The northeastern channel, separating Walpole Mand from the main Canada shore, is called " Chenail Ecarte." Besides the waters passing through the Strait of St. Glair, Lake St. Clair receives the river Thames from the Canada side, which ia navigable to Chatham, some 24 miles ; also the waters of Clin- ton River from the west or American side, the latter being narigable to Mt. Clemens, Michigan. Several other* streams flow into the lake from Canada, the principal of which is the RiTer Sydenham. Much of the land bordering on the lake is low and marshy, as well as' the islands ; and in places there are large plains which are used for grazing cattle. Ashley, or New Baltimore, situated on the N.W. side of Lake St. Clair, 80 miles from Detroit, is a new and flourishing place, and has a fine section of country in the rear. It contains tliree steam saw-mills, several other manufactories, and about 1,000 inhabitants. A steamboat runs from this plate to Detroit. Mt. Clemens, Macomb Co., Mich., is situated on Clinton River, six miles above its entrance into Lake St. Clair, and about 30 miles from Detroit by lake and river. A steamer plies daily to and from Detroit during the season of navigation. Mt. Clemens contains the county buildings, several churches, three hotels, and a number of stores and manufacturing establish- ments, and about 2.500 inhabitants. Detroit is distant by plank-road only 20 miles. Chatham, C. W., 46 miles from Detroit by railroad route, and about 24 miles above the mouth of the river Thames, which enters into Lake St. Clair, is a port of entry and thriving place of business, where have been built a large number of steamers and sail-vessels. Algonac, Mich., situated near the foot of St. Clair River, 40 miles from Detroit, contains a church, two or three saw- loills, and about 600 inhabitants Newport, Mich., seven miles farther north, is noted for Bteamboat building, there being extensive ship-yards, where are annually employed a large number of workmen. Here are four 'j I' -r 124 DBTROIT TO MACKINAC AND SAUT 8TE MARIE. steam saw-mills, machine shops, etc. Population about 800. Belle River here enters the St. Clair from the west. S^r. Clair Strait connects Lake Huron with Lake St. Claif, and discharges the surplus waters of Lakes Superior, Michigan, and Huron. It flows in a southerly direction, and enters Lake St. Clair by six channels, the north one of which, on the Mich- igan side, is the only one at present navigated by large vessels in ascending and descending the river. It receives several tributaries from the west, or Michigan ; the principal of which are Black River, Pine River, and Belle River, and several rivers flow into it from the east, or Canadian side. It has several flouridiing villages on its banks. Tt is 48 miles long, from a half to a mile wide, and has an average depth of from 40 to 50 feet, with a current of three miles an hour, and an entire de- scent of about 1 6 feet. Its waters are clear and transparent, the navigation easy, and the scenery varied and beautiful- forming, for its entire length, the boundary between the United States and Canada. The banks of the upper portion are high ; those of the lower portion are low, and in parts inclined to he marshy. Both banks of the river are generally well settled, and many of the farms are beautifully situated. There are several wharves constructed on the Canada side, for the con- venience of supplying the numerous steamboats passing and re- passing with wood. There is also a settlement of the Chippewa Indians in the township of Sarnia, Canada ; the Indians reside in small log or bark houses of their own erection. St. Clair, Mich., is pleasantly situated on the west side of St. Clair Strait, 56 miles from Detroit and 14 miles from Lake Huron. This is a thriving place, with many fine buildings, and is a great lumber depot. It contains the county buildings for 8i. Clair Co., several churches and hotels, one flouring mill, and five steam saw-mills, besides other manufacturing establishments, and about 3,000 inhabitants. St. Clair has an active business in the construction of steamers and other lake craft. The site of old Fort St, Clair, now in ruins, is on the border of the village DETROIT TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. 125 SouTHERLAND, G. W., is a Small village on the Canada shore, opposite St. Clair. It was laid out in 1833 by a Scotch gentle- man of the same name, who here erected an Episcopal church, and made other valuable improvemeAita. Moore, C. W., is a small village ten miles below Port Sarnia Fromefield, or Talfoxtrd's, C. W., is another small village, handsomely situated four and a half miles below Port Sarnia Here is an Episcopal cuurch, a wind-mill, and a cluster of dwellings. Port Sarnia, C. W., 68 miles from Detroit, is an important place and port of entry, handsomely situated on the east bank of the river St. Clair, opposite Port Hnron on the American shore, and near the foot of Lake Huron. It now contains about 2,500 inhabitants, and is the proposed terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada, which will afford a speedy com- munication with Hamilton, Toronto, Kingston, Montreal, and Quebec. Steamers run from Port Sarnia to Goderich, and different places on the Upper Lakes, and to Detroit, etc. Port Huron, St. Clair Co., Mich., is very advantageously situated on the west bank of the river St. Clair, at the mouth of Black River, two miles below Lake Huron and 68 miles from Detroit by water. It contains several churches, two or three public houses, fifteen stores, one steam flouring-mill, four steam saw-mills, and several other manufacturing establishments. Population about 3,000. It is an important depot for lumber, fish, etc. A railroad is to be constructed from Port Huron to Corunna and Grand Rapids, connecting with the Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad ; another railroad will extend to Detroit, thus forming a direct route from Lake Huron to Lake Michigan, and to Toledo, Cincinnati, etc. During the season of navigation there is daily intercourse by steamboat with Detroit. Fort Gratoit, two miles above Port H^cn, is situated at the foot of Lake Huron, at the commencement of the St. Clair Strait. It was built in 1814, at the close of the war with Great Britain, and consists of a stockade, including a magazine, bar- neks, and other accommodations for a garrison of one bat- II* >:.] .,4! J ' > 1 ll' m M . 126 DETROIT TO MACKINAd AND 8AUT 6TE MARIR. talion. It fully commands the entrance to Lake Huron, from the American shore, and is an interesting landmark to the mariner. Point Edward, on the opposite Canadian shore, is a military reserve, where is usually stationed a small British force. It also commands the entrance tc Lake Huron. In the vicinity is an excellent fishery, where upward of 1,000 barrels of fish are annually taken and exported. During the season of navigation, steamers run daily from Detroit to Port Sarnia, Goderich, Saugeen, and other ports in Canada West. Bayfield, 108 miles from Detroit, is a new and flourishing place, situated at the mouth of a river of the same name. Goderich, 120 miles north of Detroit, is situated on elevated ground at the mouth of Maitland River, where is a good har- bor. This is a very important and growing place, where will terminate the Buffalo and Huron Mailroad, 160 miles in length. ( See page 000. ) Kincardine, thirty miles from Goderich, is another port on the Canadian side of Lake Huron, where the British steamers land and receive passengers on their trips to Saugeen. Saugken, C. W., is situated at the mouth of a river of the same name, where ie a good harbor for steamei^ and lake craft. This is the most northern port to which steamers now run on the Canada side of Lake Huron, and will no doubt, ere long, be reached by railroad. Lake Huron, oflF the mouth of Saginaw Bay, presents a wide expanse of waters, attaining its greatest width after passing Point au Barque ; the steamer usually takes a northerly direc* tion for many miles, when running toward the Strait of Mack- inac. On the east lies the Canada shore and Georgian Bay. Forrestville, Mich., 120 miles north of Detroit, situated on the west side of Lake Huron, is a new settlen. t, where is erected an extensive steam saw-mill. It has some three or four hundred inhabitants, mostly engaged in the lumber trade. A steamer runs from Detroit to this landing, which is distant 47 miles from Port Huron. DETROIT TO MACKINAC AND SAUT 8TE MARIE. 127 Saginaw Bay is a Tery Inrge body of water, it being about 80 miles wide and 60 miles long, penetrating far into the lower peninsula of Michigan. There are several islands near the center of the bay and along its eastern shore ; while dif- ferent kinds of fish are taken from its waters in large quanti- ties. Saginaw River j flowing into the head of the bay, is a large and navigable stream, draining a rich section of country. Lower Saginaw, near the mouth of the river, is a flourish- ing settlement, from whence a large amount of lumber is an- nually exported. Saginaw City, Saginaw Co., Mich., is handsomely situated on the left bank of the river, 23 miles above its mouth. It contains a court-house and jail, several churches, two hotels, 15 stores, two warehouses, and six steam saw-mills. Population about 4,000. There is a fine section of country in the rear of Saginaw, much of which is heavily timbered ; the soil produces grain in abundance, while the streams afford means r^ easy transportation to market. Steamers run daily from Saginaw City to Detroit, during the season of navigation. East Saginaw, situated on the right bank of the river, about one mile below Saginaw City, is a new and flourishing place, also largely engaged in the lumber trade, where are located several extensive steam saw-mills and other manufao- toring establishments. The other important points passed on a trip from Detroit to Mackinac or the Saut Ste Marie are Thunder Bay Island and light, and Presque Isle, on the Michigan shore; while the Great Manitoulin Island, Great Duck Island, and Cockburn Island are on the Canada side. If the s«eamer is bound or Mackinac, a westerly course is 1 pursued after passing Presnue isie light until Bois Blanc I Island is reached and passed, the steamer then gliding through the Strait of Mackinac, where the water-surface narrows to the width of about 20 miles! VI y. ■. *i V 'irfliiW BAYS AND RIVERS-SOIL, CLIMATE, ETC., OF THE LOWER PENINSULA OF MICHIGAN. The Lower Peninsula of Michigan is nearly surronnded by the waters of the Great Lakes, and, in this respect, its situa- tion is naturally more fuTorable for all the purposes of trade and commerce than any other of the Western States. The numerous streams which penetrate every portion of the peninsula, some of which are navigable for steamboats a con* Biderable distance from the lake, being natural out^ts for the products of the interior, render this whole region desirable for purposes of settlement and cultivation. Even as far north as the Strait of Mackinac, the soil and climate, together with the valuable timber, offer great inducements to settlers ; and if the proposed railroads, under the recent grant of large portions of these lands by Congress, are constructed from and to the differ- ent points indicated, this extensive and heavily timbered region will speedily be reclaimed, and become one of the most sub- stantial and prosperous agricultural portions of the West. It is well that in the system of compensation, which seems to be a great law of the universe, the vast prairies which comprise so large a portion of this great Western domain are proviued so well with corresponding regions of timber, affording the necessary supply of lumber for the demand of the increasing population which is so rapidly pouring into these Western States. The State of Michigan — all the waters of which flow into the basin of the St. Lawrence — Northern Wisconsin, and Minuesota are the sources from which the States of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Iowa, and a large portion of the prairie country west of the Mississippi, must derive theii' supply of this important article (lumber). The quantity of pine lumber manufactured in Michigan alone BATS, RIVERS, ETC., OF MrCIIIOAN. 129 is estimated for the past year to amount to nearly one thousand millions of feet. The amount sold in Chicago in 1856 was up- ward of 450 millions, at an average price of, say $14 per thousand. Tliis great commodity iq to a considerable degree undervalued. The supply in the West is now equal to the demand, but the consumption is so great, and the demand so constantly in^^reas- isg with the development and settlement of the countrj , that of necessity, within comparatively a very few years, these vast forests will be exliausted. It is estimated that in ten years a Tery large proportion of the pine timber, accessible to navigable streams, will be consumed. But as the timber is exhausted the soil is prepared for cultivation, and a large portion of the north- em part of the southern peninsula of Michigan will be settled I and cultivated, as it is the most reliable wheat-growing portion of the Union. Natural points for harbors are found at the mouths of nearly all the large streams in the State. Besides the ports and towns already described, there are on Lake Huro?i, after leaving Sag- inaw Bay going north, several settlements and lumber estab- lishments, fisheries, etc. These are at Sauble River, Black River, and Devil River. At Thunder Bay a very flourishing town is being built up, with a superior water-power on the riTer. This is the county seat of Alpena County. The next important point on the coast is Cheboygan River, The U. S. Land Office for this district is located here, at a small town on the bay called Duncan. This point is nearly opposite the isl- and of Mackinac. Passing around the western extremity of the peninsula, at the Waugoshance Light and Island, the next point is Little Traverse Bay. This is the terminus of the Amboy and Trav- e se Bay Railroad. About fifteen miles southnv asterly from Little Traverse wo enter Grand Iraverse Bay^ a large and beautiful arm of the lake, extending about thirty miles inland. This bay is divided ittto two parts by a point of land from two to four miles wide 130 DAYS, U1VER8, ETC., OF MICIIIOAN. '■t Ui 11 extending from the head of the bay about eighteen miles toward the lake. The country around thiL bay is exceedingly pictur. esque, and embraces one of the finest agricultural portions of the State The climate is mild, and fruit and grain of all kinds suitable to a northern latitude are produced, with less liability to in- jury from frost than in some of the southern portions of the State. Large quantities of these lands have been located, and sct- oral sctremcnts and towns are rapidly growing up. Grand Traverse City is located at the head of the west arm of the bay, and is the terminus of the proposed railroad from Grand Rap- ids, a distance cf about 140 miles. Passing out of the bay and around the point dividing the west arm from the lake, we first arrive at the river Jiux Bees Seeis. There is here a natural harbor, capable of accommoda- ting the larger class of vessels and steamboats. A small settle- ment has been commenced at this place, but with its natural advantages, and the capital and enterprise of parties "(vho now contemplate making further improvements, it will soon become a, very desirable and convenient point for the accommodation of navigators. The islands comprising the Beavers, the Manitous, and Fox isles should here be noticed. The Beavers lie a little south of west from the entrance to the Bi'rait of Mackinac, the Mani- tous a little south of these, and the Fox's still farther dowB the lake. These are all valuable for fishing purposes, and for wood and lumber. Lying in the route of all the steamboat lines from Chicago to Bufifalo and the Upper Lakes, the harbors on these islands are stopping- points for the boats, and a profit- able trade is conducted in furnishing the necessary supplies of wood, etc. The settlement of Mormons on the Big Beaver Island has recently been abandoned, and the people have mostly dispersed. We next arrive at Manistee, a small but important settlement at iJie mouth of the Manistee River. The harbor is a natural BAYS, UIVEKS, ETC., OF MICHIGAN. 131 one, but requires some improyemcnt. A large trade is carried on with Chicago in lumber. The river passes through a flno pine district, and is one of the largest in the State. The next point of importance is the mouth of the P^re Mar" qwtte River. Here is the terminus of the proposed railrood from Flint, in Genesee County, connecting with Detroit by the Detroit and Milwaukee Railway, a distance of about 180 miles. The harbor is very superior, and the country in the vicinity I is well adapted for settlement. About 10 miles in the interior is situated one of the most compact and extensive tracts of pine I timber on the western coast. About forty miles south of this, in the couity of Oceana, a Ismail village is located at the mouth of White River. The Iharbor here is also a natural one, and the region is settled to Iconsiderable extent by farmers. Lumber is, however, the prin- cipal commodity, and the trade is principally with the Chicago irket. The next point is Muskegon ^ at the mouth of the Muskegon tiver. It is supported principally by the large lumber region of the interior. Numerous steam saw-mills are now in active [)peration here, giving the place an air of life and activity. The harbor is one of the best on the lake, and is >\t present ecessible for all the vessels trading between Muskegon and icago. A small steamboat runs up the Muskegon River about forty miles to JVewaygOt the capital of Newaygo County. This HUage is in a beautiful region of farming country, and also in |lo8e proximity to the extensive pineries stretching along the |alley of the river. One of the largest lumber mills in the [tate, running 114 saws, is in operation at this place. About BTenty millions of feet of lumber are manufactured annually this river. Grand Haven, Ottawa Co., Mich , is situated on both sides Grand River, at its entrance into Lake Michigan, here eighty les wide ; on the opposite side lies Milwaukee, Wis. The dif- ent settlements comprising Grand Haven contain about 6,000 ibitants. Here is a court-house and jail, two churches, six ** 132 BAYS, RIVERS, BTC, OF MICHIGAN. !i;,' hotels and taverns, a number of stores ; eight large steam saw- mills, pail and tub factories, a foundry and machine shop, and other manufacturing establishments. Steamers run from Grand Ha"ven to Chicago, to Milwaukee, and also to other ports on Lake Michigan. Steamers also mn from Grand Haven to Grand Rapids, about forty miles up the river, bringing down immense quantities of lumber and produce. Above Grand Rapids, where is a fall of twenty- two feet, steam- ers run to Lyons, about sixty miles distant, where steamboat navigation ceases. The Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad, when finished, will extend from Detroit to Grand Haven, 185 miles, running for most of the distance through a rich section of country. It wiO form a through line of travel, by means of steamers across the lake to Milwaukee, and through Wisconsin to the Mississippi River and the Far West. Grand Rapids, situated forty miles above Grand HaYen,| although in her teensy can truly assume the title of a city. With a busy, enterprising population of more tian 8,000, and rapidly increasing, possessing a water-power unequaled by any , in the State, alSbrding to manufacturers and others temptiii([{ inducements ; surrounded by a new, fertile, and rapidly impror- ing country, it can not fail shortly to become one of the moet { prominent cities in the Northwest. " Extensive and inexhaustible beds of gypsum, a valuable almost indispensable soil-fertilizer in any country^ are found I near this place. Building stone of good quality, easily attaint' | ble, as T^ ell as other desirable building materials, are abundant,! and much in requisition, of which fact there is sufficient satis* I factory evidence in the noble structures to be seen here, botij of stores and dwellings, many of which evince good tasto correct architectural judgment. I waa credibly informed that! there were mercantile houses, in this remote city, doing busineaj to the extent of one to two hundred thousand dollars each, yearj l.y. It is confidently expected that the Detroit and Milwauksij Railroad will be completed and in operation from Detroit to tlii)| place during the summer of 1857. This road extends throum an exceedingly rich agricultural section ; that portion lying ^1 twee.n the cistern £>und of Shiawassa County and Gravl Jumber of hi jumber of ha Number of h^ vessels . ] f^erage load! fnnoai numbl Ijerfromr ^ BAYS, illVERS, KTC, OF MICHIGAy. 133 Rapids may eafely be classed as the very best in the whole State, and I will venture the assertion that a very few years only will be reqidred to demonstrate the truth of this, in the large amount of its surplus products seeking a market eastward, through the agency of this railroad." The Grand River Pineries. — ** Up in the northern part of the Grand River valley, and along and beyond the Muskegon liiTer, an immense amount of pine timber is to be found. The mills upon the Muskegon River are, most of them, of later date than those of Grand River, and some of them are the finest in the world. One of the mills upon Grand River is so complete an automatic machine that it draws up and arranges its own logs, feeds them to any required thickness of boards, gigs back and I sets itself, carries off and piles up the lumber, registers the I number of boards out — all by the aid of the most simple and I beautiful machinery. '* At a low estimatd," says the Grand Rapids Enquirer ^ from I which we gather these facts, ** the value of this trade foots up between five and seven millions of dollars. There is every pros- pect that these figures will be largely increased in ensuing [years, there being thousands of acres of better pine lands than Ihave yet been cut, yet lying untouched, north of these two Irivers." The following table shows, to some extent, the amount of {lumber business now done on the Grand and Muskegon rivers id their tributaries : ^mber of saw-mills on Orand and Muskegon rivers and their tributaries 116 (These mills run from 1 to 180 saws each.) Imount of lumber cut per year—feet. 178,000,000 « lath *' " " 48,000,000 " staves " " " ^,000,000 shingles " *' " 200,000,000 pumber of hands constantly employed in mills ... 1,160 jumber of hands employed in pineries in winter ... 3 ,400 iiumber of hands employed in rafting and loading vessels 600 leverage load of vessels, feet . . , 80,000 ^nnual number of arrivals of vessels carrying lu:;;i- ber from Grand and Muskegon rivers 1,920 12 Sff*' \k \ U A ■.i\ "^ rt;. ft il I >r )« DETROIT. The City of Detroit, a port of entry, and the great com* mercial mart of the State, is favorably situated in N. lat. 42^ 20', W. long. 82° 68', on a river or strait of the same name, elevated some 30 or 40 feet above its surface, being seven miles below the outlet of Lake St. Clair and twenty above the mouth of the river, where it enters into Lake Erie. It extends f^'T* the distance of upward of a mile upon the southwest bank of the river, where the stream is three fourths of a mile in width. The principal public and private offices and wholesale stores are located on Jefferson and Woodward avenues, which cross each other at right angles, the latter running to the water's edge. There may usually be seen a great number of steamboats, propellers, and sail vessels of a large ilass, loading or unloading their rich cargoes, destined for Eastern mar- kets or for the Great West, giving an animated appearance to this place, which is aptly called the City of the Straits. It was incorporated in 1815, being now divided into nine wards, and governed by a mayor, recorder, and board of aldermen. Detroit contains the old State-house, from the dome of which a fine view is obtained of the city and vicinity ; the City Hall, Ma- sonic Hall, Firemen's Hall, Mechanics Hall, Odd Fellows Hali, the Young Men's Society Building, two Market Buildings, twenty churches, ten hotels, besides a number of taverns; a United States custom-house and post-office, a theater, a mu- seum, two orphan asylums, four banks, and a savings' fund institute, besides a great number of manufacturing estab- lishments. There are also several extensive ship-yards and machine shops, where are built and repaired vessels of almost every description. The population in 1850 was 21,801; io 1866,48,000. DETROIT. 135 Detroit may be regarded as one of the most favored of all the Western cities of tlie Union. It was first settled by the French explorers as early as 1701, as A military and fur trad- ing pore. It changed its garrison and military goTernment in 1700 for a British military commander and troops, enduring nnder the latter regime a series of Indian sieges, assaults, and petty but vigilant and harassing warfare, conducted against the English garrison by the celebrated Indian warrior Pontiac. Detroit subsequently passed into the possession of the American revolutionists; but on the 16th August, 1812, it was surren- dered by Gen. Hull, of the United States army, to Gen. Brock, commander of the British forces. In 1813 it was again sur- rendered to the Americans. The railroads finished and in progress of construction in Michigan afiford facilities of an immense importance to Detroit, and the State at large. The following lines diverge frohi Detroit : 1. The Detroit t Monroe and Toledo Railroad f 62 miles in length, connecting with the Michigan Southern Railroad at Monroe, and with other roads at Toledo. 2. The Michigan Central Railroad^ 282 miles in length, extends to Chicago, 111. This important road, running across the State from east to west, connects at Michigan City, Ind. , with the New Albany and Salem Railroad — thus forming a di- rect line of travel to Louisville, St. Louis, etc., as well as Chi- cago and the Far West. * I 3. The Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad runs through a rich section of country to Grand Haven, on Lake Michigan, opposite Milwaukee, Wis , and will soon be completed. 4. The Detroit and Port Huron Railroad is also under con- struction, which, when completed, will connect Lake Huron by rail with the valley of the Ohio River. 5. The Great Western Railway of Canada has its terminus at Windsor, opposite Detroit, the two places being connected by three steam ferries — ^thus affording a speedy line of travel through Canada, and thence to Eastern cities of the United States. 136 DETROIT RIVER. The Detroit Rivkr, or Strait^ is a noble stream, through which flow the surplus waters of the Upper Lakes into Lake Erie. It is 27 miles in length, and from half a mile to two miles in width, forming the boundary between the United States and Canada. It has a perceptible current, and is navif'a- ble for vessels of the largest class. Large quantities of fish are annually taken in the river, and the sportsman usually finds an abundance of wild ducks, which breed in great numbers in the marshes bordering some of the islands and harbors of the coast. There are altogether seventeen islands in the river. The names of these are, Clay, Celeron, Hickory, Sugar, Bois Blanc, Ella, Fox, Rock, Grosse Isle, Stoney, Fighting, Tur- key, Mammy Judy, Grassy, Mud, Belle or Hog, and lie la Peche. The two latter are situated a few miles above Detroit, near the entrance to Lake St. Clair, where large quantities of white-fish are annually taken. Ile la. Peche, attached to Canada, was the home of the celebrated Indian chief Pontiac, Parkman, in his " History of the Conspiracy of Pontiac," says : *♦ Pontiac, the Satan of this forest-paradise, was accustomed to spend the early part of the summer upon a small island at the opening of Lake St. Clair." Another author says : ** The king and lord of all this country lived in no royal state. His cabin was a small, oven-shaped structure of bark and rushes. Here he dwelt with his squaws and children ; and here, doubtless, he might often have been seen carelessly reclining his naked form on a rush-mat or a bear-skin, like an ordinary Indian warrior." The other fifteen islands, most of them umall, are situated below Detroit, within the first twelve miles of the river after entering it from Lake Erie, the largest of which is Grosse Isle, attached to Michigan, on which are a number of exten- sive and well -cultivated farms. This island has become a very popular retreat for citizens of Detroit during the heat of sum- mer, there being here located good public houses for the m- commodation of visitors. DETROIT RIVER. 137 Father Hennepin, who was passenger on the " Griffin," the first vessel that crossed Lake Erie, in 1679, in his description of the scenery along the route, says : " The islands are the finest in the world ; the strait is finer than Niagara ; the banks are vast meadows, and the prospect is terminated with so- e hills covered with vineyards, trees bearing good fmit, groves and forests so well dispoced that one would think that Nature alone could not have made, without the help of art, so chiirming a prospect." COMPARATIVE PUKITT OF DETROIT RIVER WATER. The following Table shows the solid matter in a gallon of water, taken from Lakes and Rivers * a different cities : Grs. soliil ninltnr. Grii. •oliil matter. Albany, Hudson River 6.820 C Hemlock L. 1.880 Troy, Mohawk River 7.830 Rochester, N. Y. < Lake Ont . . 4.160 Boston, Cochituate Lake 1.850 C Genesee R.11.210 New York, Croton River. .... 6.99S Detr* Detroit River 5.722 Broolclyn, L. I. Ponds 2.867 Cleveland, Lake Erie 5.000 Philadelphia, Schuylkill R. . . 4.260 Montreal, St. Lawrence R. . . . 5.000 Cincinnati, Ohio River 6.786 Of the Detroit River water, Prof. Douglass, in his report of the analysis, says : " In estimating the value cf your city water, as compared with other cities, due allowance must be made for the fact, that the total solid matter is materially increased by the presence of silica, alumina, and iron, elements that can produce little or no injury ; while the chlorides, much the most injurious compounds, are entirely absent. The presence of 8uch large quantities of silica and iron is accounted for by the fact, that Lakes Superior and Huron are formed, for the most part, in a basin of ferruginous sandstone and igneous rock." 12* m 138 FISHERIES. LAKE AND RIVER FISHERIES. « " The early French explorers of the Upper iid,Kes, in 1615, make mention of the white fish and trout as being luxuriotis, and much used for the sustenance of life by the sons of the forest. From the time civilization dawned upon the shores of the lakes, the French settlers supplied themselyes with them ; and during the war of 1812, they were found of substantial benefit to the suidiers in appeasing their hunger, for the want of other supplies. "Previous to the completion of the Erie Canal, salt was mostly transported by the St. Lawrence, and thence up the lakes, and obtained only at enormous prices. After the canal was completed, in 1827, it became comparatively cheap, and the fisheries were made profitable. In 1830, emigration to Michigan rapidly commenced, and increased to such a degree in 1834, that the new-comers found it difficult to purchase pro- duce, on account of the scarcity, as nearly every thing con- sumed was imported from sister States. This caused a great consumption of fish, and gave birth to the extension of river and lake fisheries. " From this time the business increased, and several grounds were cleared on the St. Clair River, and as the market increased they were extended to the shores of Lake Huron. Several houses in Detroit became extensively engaged in the business, employing vessels exclusively in the trade. The American Fur Company also engaged In it ; and, in 1841, two schooners were taken over the falls at the Saut Ste Marie into Lake Superior, for the purpose of fishing on that lake. ** There are a great variety of fish in the lakes besides white fish and trout. Lake Superior abounds vrith the siskowit, a delicious fish, weighing from three to ten pounds. They are excfcddingly fat, and when tryed will yield 25 per cent, of oil. Sturgeon weighing upward of 100 pounds have been taken; trout, 60 pounds ; maskalonee, 40 pounds ; pickerel, 16 pounds; mullet, 10 pounds; bill-fish, six pounds; also cat-fish, her- rings, eels, etc. In the vicinity of the Saut Ste Marie, and all the streams empvjylug into Lake Superior, large quantities of small speckled, or brook-trout, are taken. *♦ In 1840 there were 35.000 barrels of fish of various kinds packed, and it is estimated that the quantity now annually taken in American waters can not be less than 100,000 bar- rels, besides what find their way to the Canadian markets. Detroit is the most extensive mart, where large quantities are sold for home consumption ; and market is found for them in New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, and other Western States."— See «* Sketches of the City of Detroit," pub. in 1855. STEAMBOAT ROUTE, 139 The WMte Fish is regarded as the prince of fresh-water fish Henry R. Schoolcraft, in his poem, ** The White Fish," says: ** All fMenda to good living by tnreeo ''nd dlah, Concur in exalting this prince of a noh ; So fine in a platter, to tempting a fry, So rich on a gridiron, so sweet in a pie ; That even before it the salmon must fail, And that mighty bonne-brntche. of the land-beaver's tail. ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ 'Tls a morsel alike for the gourmand or faster, While, white as a tablet of pure alabaster ! Its beauty or flavor no person can doubt. When seen in the water or tasted without; And all the dispute that opinion ere makes Of this king of lake fishes, this * deer of the lakes,^* Regard not its choiceness to ponder or sup, But the best mode of dressing and serving It up. « ♦ ♦ " ♦ ° » Here too, might a fancy to descant Inclined, Contemplate the love that pertains to the kind, And bring up the red man, in fanclAil strains, To prove its creation from feminine bralns-'t STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM Ports, etc. Miles. Cleveland, Ohio Point Pelde Is., and Light 60 BarPoint, C. W 97 Bois Blanc Is. Light, > ^ Detroit River, 5 Maiden, C. W 101 I, Gibraltar, Mich Grosse Isle, " 102 Mama Juba Is. and Light 108 Wyandotte, Mich 109 Fish Island Light Ill Fighting Island 112 Windsor, C. W 119 Detroit 120 Fare, $3 00. CLEVELAND TO DETROIT. Ports, etc. Miles. Detroit, lVI[ich Windsrr, C. W 1 Fighti ig Island 8 Fish Island 9 Wyandot' cy Mich 11 Mama Juba Is. and Light 12 Grosse Isle 13 Gibraltar, Mich Maiden, C. W 19 Bois Blanc Is. Light, ^ .^ Lake Erie, 5 * * Bar Point, C. W 28 Point Pel6e Island CO Cleveland 120 Usual Time, 7 hours. * A translation of Ad-dik-JcMm-mnifj, the Indian name for this fish. t Vide ** Indian Tales and Legends.'* m » ir. 'SI ^|f ill 140 STEAIVJBOAT ROUTES. CLEVELAND AND DKTIlOIl' STEAMERii — DAILY. May Queen, 688 tons Capt. E. Vesie Ocean, 900 *' " C. C. Blodgett. STEAMERS EUNNING FROM CLEVELAND AND DETROIT TO DIFFERENT PORTS ON THE UPPER LAKES. lake superior line, stopping at MACKINAC AND SAUT 8TE MARIE. Steamer Illinois, 926 tons Capt. Wilson. " North Star, 1,106 tons *' B. G. Sweet. ** Planet, 1,164 tons ** Nicholson. Propeller Manhattan, 320 tons " John Spalding. " Mineral Rock, 560 *• . ** John Fraser. ** Gen. Taylor, 462 " " R. Rider. • GREEN BAY LINE, STOPPING AT MACKINAC, RUNS BETWEEN BUFFALO, CLEVELAND, DETROIT, AND GREEN BAT. Steamer Michigan, 642 tons .Capt. A. Stewart «♦ Sultana, 650 " " Mead DETROIT TO SAGINAW CITY. Steamer Sam Ward, 433 tons Capt. H. Fish running from DETROIT. Steamer Ploughboy, 300 tons, Capt. D. Rowan, runs to Port Samia and Goderich, C W. Steamer Mazeppa, 250 tons, runs to Goderich and Sangeen DETROIT TO PORT HURON AND FORRESTVILLE. Steamer Forrester Capt. J. Robertson. " Forest Queen " S. D. Woodworth. Steamer Ariel, 165 tons, runs to New Baltimore, Mich. *< Albion, 182 tons, runs to Mt. Clemens. AND SAUT una to Port STEAMBOAT ROUTES FROM DETROIT TO TOLEDO, SANDUSKY, ETC. DETROIT AND TOLEDO STEAMBOAT LINE. Arrow, 373 tons Capt. J. W. Keith. Dart, 297 « " S. Dustin. One of the above steamers runs daily to and from Toledo, stopping at Wyandotte, Trenton, Monroe, and r.ther ports on the Michigan shore. Distance from Detroit to Toledo, by steam- boat route, 70 miles. DETROIT TO SANDUSKY. The steamer Bay City, 479 tons, Capt. J. M. Lundy, runs from Detroit to Sandusky, Ohio, connecting with railroad, lines running to Newark, Columbus, Cincinnati, etc. Wyandotte, ten miles below Detroit, is a new and flourish- ing manufacturing village, where are located the most extensiYe iron works in Michigan. Trenton, six miles farther, is the next steamboat landing. The City of Monroe, capital of Monroe Co., Mich., is situated CQ both sides of the river Raisin, three miles above its entrance into Lake Erie, and about 40 miles from Detroit. It is con- nected with the lake by a ship canal, and is the terminus of the Mkhighn Southern RaUroad, which extends west, in connec- tion with the Northern Indiana Railroad, to Chicago, 111. The town contains about 5,000 inhabitants, a court-house and jail, a United States land-office, eight churches, several public- houses, and a number of large stores of different kinds. Here are two extensive piers, forming an outport at the mouth of the river, where the steamers land and receive passengers ; the railroad track running to the landing. A plank-road also runs from the outport to the city, which is an old and interesting locality, being formerly called French town, where a sanguin- ary battle was fought during the war of 1812. The Detroit^ Monroe and Toledo Railroad, just completed, passes through 142 ToI.EPO. f'l^ ' this city; it bemg alxut 40 miles to Detroit and 22 miles to | Toledo by railroad rout). This line of travel will be extendi south to Cincinnati. Steamers run from Detroit to Toledo, stopping at Monroe daily during the season of navigation. The City of Sandusky, capital of Erie Co., Ohifk, is a port of entry and flourishiUj^ place of trade. It is advantageously situated on Sandusky Bay, three miles from Lake Erie, in N. lat. 41° 27', W. long. 82^ 45'. The bay is about 20 miles long, and five or six miles in width, forming a capacious and excel- lent harbor, into which steamers and vessels of all sizes can enter with safety. The average depth of water is from ten to twelve feet. The city is built on a bed of limestone, producing a good building material. It contains about 10,000 inhabitants, a court-house and jail, eight churches, two banks, several well- kept hotels, and a number of large stores and manufacturing establishments of different kinds. This is the terminus of the Mad River and Lake Erie Railroad, running to Dayton, 153 miles, and the Sandusky, Mansfield and Newark Railroad, 110 miles in length. The Cleveland and Toledo Railroad, northern division, also runs through Sandusky, aflfording altogether great facilities to travelers, in connection with a line of steamers running to Detroit, Cleveland, and Buffalo The City of Toledo is situated on the Maumee River, four miles from its mouth, and ten miles from the Turtle Island Light, at the outlet of the Maumee Bay into Lake Erie. The harbor is good, and the navigable channel from Toledo to the lake is of sufficient depth for all steamers or sail vessels navi- gating the lakes, with the exception of a short distance through the bay, which requires deepening from one to two feet. Toledo is the eastern terminus of the Wabash and Erie Canal, run- ning through the Maumee and Wabash valleys, and communi- cating with the Ohio River at Evansville, a distance of 471 miles ; also of the Miami and Erie Canal, which branches from the above canal 68 miles west of Toledo, and runs southwardly through the Miami Valley in Western Ohio, and communicates with the Ohio River at Cincinnati. TOLKnO. 143 |d 22 miles to be extende," and " South Bass." On the west side of the latter lies the secure harbor of Put-in-Bat, celebrated as the rendezvous of Com. Perry's fleet, before and after the glorious naval victory which he achieved over the British fleet, Septem- ber 10th, 1813. Detroit River, forming one of the links between the Upper and Lower Lakes, is next approached, near the mouth of which may be seen a light on the Michigan shore called Gibraltar Lighty and another light on an island attached to Canada, the steamers usually entering the river through the east or Brit' i»h Channel of the river, although vessels often pass through the west or American Channel, ^Hl ^ i 148 BUFFALO TO DETROIT. Amherktburg, C. W.t 18 miles below Detroit, is an old and important town. The situation is good ; the banks of the riyer, both above and below the village, but particularly the latter, where the river emerges into Lake Erie, are very beautiful; several handsome residences may here be seen, surrounded by highly cultivated grounds. About a mile below the town is a chalybeate spring, , which is said to resemble the waters of Cheltenh tm, in England. British and American vessels fre- quently 1 lud at Amherstburg, on their trips to and from tlie Upper Lakes. Fort Malden, capable of accommodating a regiment c. troops, is situated about half a mile, above Amherstburg, on the east bank of the river, the channel of which it here com- mands. At Brown sTOWN, situated on the opposite side of the river, in Michigan, is the battle-ground where the Americans, under disadvantageous circumstances, and with a slight loss, routed the British forces, which lay in ambush, as the former were on their way to relieve the fort at Frenchtown, which event occur- red August 5, 1812. Sandwich, C. W,, is beautifully situated on the river, two miles below Detroit, and nine miles below Lake St. Clair. It stands on a gently sloping bank a short distance from the river, which is here about a mile wide. This is one of the oldest settlements in Canada West. Windsor, C. W., situated in the township of Sandwich, is a village directly opposite Detroit, with which it is connected by three steam ferries. It was laid out in 1 834, and is now a place of considerable business, having a population of about 2,000 inhabitants. Here terminates the Great Western Railway of Canada, which extends from Niagara Falls or Suspension Bridge, via Hamilton and London, to opposite Detroit— thus forming an important link in the great line of railroads, now finished, running from the sea-board at different points to the Mississippi River BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, DETROIT, ETC. 149 STEAMEB8 EUNNING FEOM BUFFALO TO DIFFERENT POETS ON LAKE EEIE, ETC.— 1867. MICHIGAN CENTBAIi RAILBOAD LINE Steamer Plymouth Rock, 2,000 tons. . . .Capt. P. J. Ralph. « Mississippi, 1,830 " " S. G. Langlev. Western World, 2,000 «* «* J. S. Richards. One of the above splendid steamers leaves the foot of Erie Street, Buffalo, every evening (Sundays excepted) at 9 p.m., direct for Detroit, connecting Tvith trains on the Michigan Cen- tral Railroad, rmining to Chicago, etc. C. E. Noble, Gen. Agents Buffalo MICHIGAN SOUTHERN RAILROAD LINE Southern Michigan, 1,470 tons Capt. L. B. Goldsmith. Western Metropolis, 1,830 " " L T. Pheatt. City of Buffalo, 2,200 " " A. D. Perkins. One of the above new and popular steamers usually leaves the foot of Main Street, Buffalo, daily (Sundays excepted), direct for Toledo, connecting with trains on the Michigan Southern and Northern Indiana railroads, running to Chicago, etc. This line also connects with trains of cars running from Toledo to Lafayette, Ind., St. Louis, etc. C. Forbes, Gen, Agent, Buffalo. CLEVELAND, COLUMBUS AND CINCINNATI RAILROAD LINE. Steamer Crescent City 1,740 tons, Capt. Wm. T. Pease. " Queen OF THE West, 1,850 " " D.H.McBride. One of the above steamers usually leaves Buffalo at 8 o'clock P.M., direct for Cleveland, 0., connecting with trains on tho (Tleyeland, Columbus and Cincinnati Railroad. J. C. Harbison, Gen. Agent, Buffalo. Steamer Clifton, Capt. H. Van Allen, runs from Buffalo to Chipptwa, C. W., daily, connecting with the Erie and Ontario Railroad, forming a through line of travel to Niagara Falls, Toronto, etc. Steamer Mohawk runs from Buffalo to Port Stanley, etc.> . Qonnecting with the London ana Port Stanley Railroad. 18* 150 BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS TO DETROIT. EAILROAD EOUTE FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO HAMILTON AND DETROIT, via GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY OF CANADA. This great International Line, extending from Niagara River to Detroit River, opposite the city of Detroit, a distance of 229 miles, passes through a fine and interesting section of country, equal in many espects to Western New York. It connects with the New York Central and Buffalo and Niagara Falls Railroad, forming a great through route of travel. Starting from the Suspension Bridgt it Clifton, two miles below the Falls of Niagara, the passenger train soon reaches tlie verge of the mountain ridge overlooking the plain below, while in the distance may be seen the broad waters of Lake Ontario, usually studded with sail vessels and prope ^ rs on their wa/ to or from the mouth of the Welland CanaL " Traced like a map, the landscape lies In cultured beauty stretching wide.'' Thokold, nine miles, is situated on the line of the WcUand Canal, where is abundant water-power propelling five or six flour- ing-mills. A railroad extends to Port Dalhousie, some five or six miles distant, connecting with a steamer running to Toronto. This road will be extended to Port Colbourne, on Lake Erie, about twenty miles distant. St. Catherines, 12 miles from the Suspension Bridge> is a flourishing town, also situated on the line of the Welland Canal, which connects Erie and Ontario. This has become of late a fashionable place of resort during the summer months, caused by the mineral waters of the " Artesian Wells" obtaining great celebrity, owing to their curative properties. Here are two or three well-kept hotels for the accommodation of visitors. For further description of this place, see page 238. Beamsville, twenty-two miles from the Suspension Bridge, ifl a thriving village, about one mile from the station. Grimsby, five miles farther, is situated on Forty-mile Creek, the scene of some hard fighting> during the war of 1812. It is i BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS TO DETROIT. 151 small village of 350 inhabitants ; there are two churches, a hotel, and several stores ; also, a grist ai^d saw-mills propelled by water-power. Hamilton, 43 miles from Suspension Bridge, is the principal sta^oTi on the line of the Great Western Railway, where are located the principal offices and workshops connected with the company. Here is a commodious depot and steamboat landing. Carriages and omnibuses are always in readiness to convey passengers to the hotels in the city, which is more fully de- scribed on page— i The Tot onto Branch of the Great Western Railway com- mences at Hamilton, and extends a distance of thirty-eight miles to the city of Toronto, running near the shore of Lake Ontario. On leaving Hamilton for Windsor or Detroit, the road passes near the mansion of Sir Allan M*Nab, and over the Des Jardines Canal, entering the head of Burlington Bay.* Here is also a Suspension Bridge in sight, thro a over the steam as it cuts its way through the high bank which encircles the bay or lake. This point presents a beautiful view, both on leaving or arriving at the head- waters of Lake Ontario. DuNDAs, five miles from Hamilton, is situated on rising ground on the side of the mountain, and is a thriving manu- facturing place, having the advantage of a stream which flows, or rather rushes, with great impetuosity through its center, working on its way numerous mills. Th« Des Jardines Canal runs from hence to Burlington Bay, enabling the manufacturers to ship their goods at their own doors. Among the manufac- tories are flouring-mills, a paper-mill, a foundry, which is an extensive establishment, where machinery of every kind and steam-engines are made to a largo extent ; an axe factory, a woolen factory ; two newspapers, and several places of wor- ship. Population 8,500. Mi m ml * On Thursday, March 12th, 1857, the most fearftil accident on record oecorred at this bridge, killing about seventy passengers, men, women, an^ children, being on their way firom Toronto to Hamilto* m .Hi ill 152 BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS TO DETROIT. , Harrisburo, nineteen miles from Hamilton, is the station of the Gait Branch of the Great Western Railway. Paris, with the Upper and Lower Town, contains about 3,500 inhabitants ; so called from its contiguity to beds of gypsum or plaster of Peris. It possesses a considerable amount of water- power, which works numerous mills. There are two foundries. a tannery, machine-shop, distillery, sa>-mill, etc. The Buf- falo and Lake Huron Railway intersects the Great Western at this point, running to Goderich, on Lake Huron. Woodstock, 48 miles from Hamilton and 138 from Wind- sor, is a county town, well situated on rolling ground, and contains about 4,500 inhabitants. It may be call^ a town of magnificent distances ; East and West Woodstock forming a street upward of a mile in length. The vacant spaces, however, are fast being filled up with stately edifices, and it will thus in a short time become one of ihe handsomest thoroughfares in Canada. In this locality, noted for its handsome country seats — and indeed all the way ifrom Hamilton — the land as seen from the road (the railroad for the most part passes through a new country) is rolling and well cleared of trees and stumps, pre- senting more the appearance of '*merrie England" than any other section of the Province. Ingersoll, nine miles farther, formerly an Indian village, now contains about 2,000 inhabitants. A small arm of the Thames runs through it, and turnishes some water-power, by which several mills are worked. Since the opening of the rail- way it has risen in a surprising manner ; and the town, which before then had a very dingy appearance, the houses being of wood and wanting paint, is now gay with white brick, and the streets resound with the hum of an enterprising population. London, 119 miles from Suspension Bridge and 110 from Windsor, if not, like her English namesake, The great resort Of all the earth— checkered with all Complexiona of mankind — is nevertheless a very stirring business place, and presents an- other instance of the energy and enterprise of the Canadian. Ten years ago, this then very small village of wooden houses was entirely burned down, and now on its ashes is raised a most flourishing city, containing four banks, several wholesale houses, fifteen churches, many of them handsome structures, and the English Church having a fine peal of bells ; life and fire in- surance offices, breweries and distilleries. It has three news- papers and several good hotels. Population nearly 18,000. V^ ' IS well watered by the river Thames, which, however, is only navigable up to Chatham, sixty miles distamt. BUFFALO fO uoDkRICH. 153 The London and Port Stanley Railroad here joins the Gr .>at Western Railway ; length twenty >four miles, running south to Lake Erie. Chatham, forty-six miles from Windsor, situated on the river Thames, possesses the great advantage of a navigation, and is therefore a place of considerable business. It contains eight churches ; and being the county town of Kent, it has a court-house, a very handsome building, several grist and saw- mills, woolen factory, two foundries, machine shop, etc. Nu- merous steamers and sail vessels have been built at this place. Steamers ply between Chatham, Detroit, and Amherstburg. Population about 5,000. Windsor, 229 miles from Suspension Bridge, opposite Detroit, prettily situated on the banks of the river, is a place of con- siderable business, and is rapidly increasing in wealth and population, owing to the advantage it has of being the western terminus of the Great Western Railway. Of course Windsor most have a " Castle," and the hotel of that name will be found excellent. Population, 2,000. Three steam-ferries ply between Windsor and Detroit, making close connections for tne benefit of railroad passengers. For further information in regard to this route — See Canada Railway and Steam Navigation Guide, BUFFALO TO GODERICH, C. W., via BUFFALO AND LAKE HURON RAILWAY. Office^ 87 Bechanffe Street^ Buffalo^ N. Y. This important line of travel extends from Buffalo, N. Y., crossing Niagara River by means of a steam ferry at Black Rock to Fort Erie, on the Canada side. It is proposed to con- struct a permanent railroad bridge of about one mile in length, a short distance above the present ferry. From Fort Erie the line of the railway extends westward within a short distance of Lake Erie for forty miles, to Dunnville, situated at the mouth of Grand River, crossing the Welland Canal. From Dunnville the road runs along the valley of the river on the north side to Brantford, thirty-eight miles farther, and from thence extends westward to Paris, where it connects with the Great Western Railway of Canada. The line thence runs to Stratford, C. W., where it connects with the Grand Trunk ft I 154 BUFFALO TO GODERICH. n ■■i^f Railway, a total diBtance from Buffalo of 116 miles. To tMs point the road is now completed and in running order, and will be finished through to Goderich, situated on Lake Huron, during the year 1857. DuNviLLE is adyantageously situated on the Grand River, at a point where it is intersected by the feeder of the Welland Canal. It is a place of considerable business, and contains several grist, saw, and plaster mills, and a tannery. ?opula< tion, about 1,600. The Welland Canal is one of the many works of the same kind of which Canadians may be proud. This Canal affords a passage for propellers, sloops and schooners of 125 tons burden, around the Falls of Niagara, and connects Lake Erie wi^h Lake OntariOe It is 42 miles long, including feeder, 56 feet wide, and from 8^ to 16 feet deep. The whole descent from one lake to the other is 834 feet, which is accomplished by 37 locks. Brantford, 78 miles from Buffalo and 82 miles from God- erich, is beautifully situated on Grand River, and named after Brant, the renowned chief of the Six Nations Indians, who, with lis tribe, steadily supported the British Crown during the American War. "In * Gertrude of Wyoming* he is alluded to in disparaging terms : *The mammoth comes— the fiend, the monster Brant.' But some 7/ears afterward Campbell was obliged to apologize to Brant's son^^who happened to visit London; as it appeared, on satisfactory evidence, his father was not even present at the horrible desolation of Wyoming. This much is due to the mem* ory of Brant, who was a brave warrior and a steadfast ally of the British, and always exerted himself to mitigate the horrors of war." Brantford, until the opening of the Great Western Railway, was a great wheat market, the streets being crowded with hun- dreds of wagons daily; but that road created other markets, and to this extent the town has suffered. It has, however, other sources of prosperity. There is no place in the Province which oommands such extensive water-power, and which is m&d^ BUFFALO TO OODERICH. 155 B. To this BT, and will ron, during id River, at he Welland ad contains y. Popnla- of the same lal affords a tons burden, Le wi-h Lake set wide, and le lake to the 3. es from God- . named after udians, who, n during the is alluded to available for the working of numerous mills. The iron foun- dries, machine shops, and potteries are on a large scale, and have caused the place to be regarded as the Birmingham of Canada. It has a goodly number of churches of various denomi- nations, and one of the largest and handsomest hotels in the Province—** The Kirby House." Population about 6,000. Stratford, is a new and thriving town, favorably situated on the line of the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada. This section of Canada enjoys a good climate and fertile soil, produo- iag cereal grains in great abundance. The distance from Stratford to Goderich, by railroad route, is 44 miles, which, when completed, will afford a direct and speedy route from Buffalo to Lake Huron, a total distance of 160 miles. Goderich, C. W., is advantageously situated at the mouth of Maitland River, here affording, a safe and good harbor for ves- sels of a large size. The village is beautifully situated on ele- vated ground, rising about 150 feet above the waters of Lake Huron. The population now amounts to about 4,000, and is rapidly increasing in numbers and wealth. Steamers run from this port to Port Sarnia, Detroit, and Saginaw, and other har- bors on tjhe Upper Lakes. The Buffalo and Lake Huron Railway Company is pushing with energy the completion of this road, and the improvement of its passenger and freight capacity. We learn that the board of directors, at a late meeting in London, England, appropriated $1,800,000 for the construction of a steam ferry to run be- tween Fort Erie and Black Rock, which shall be able to trans- fer six cars at a time from one side of the river to the other ; for the construction of slips and docks on both sides to accomo- date the steamer ; for the construction of a track from Black Rock into the city of Buffalo, and to improve the harbor at Ooderich, the terminus of the road on Lake Huron. •i I!i •' TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM BUFFALO TO TOirDO.-LAKE ERIE ROUTE. Ports, etc Miles. Buffalo, N. Y Silver Creek, " 34 Dunkirk, " 42 Portland, " 52 Erie, Pa 90 Conneaut, Ohio 117 Ashtabula, " 131 Painesville, " 168 Cleveland, " 185 KeUey's Island 240 Sandusky " 246 South Bass Island 246 . West Sister Island 263 Turtle Island 276 Maumee Bay 278 Toledo, Ohio 286 Note. — The direct through from Buffalo to Toledo is about Erie being about 560 miles. Ports, etc. Miles. Toledo, Ohio Maumee Bay " Turtle Island 10 West Sister Island 22 South Bass Island 40 Kelley's Island 45 Sandusky, Ohio 60 100 129 154 .168 195 Zoo 243 251 ..... 285 <( (i (( «( Cleveland, Painesville, Ashtabula, Conneaut, Erie, Pa Portland, N. Y. Dunkirk, " Silver Creek," Buffalo, " route as run by the steamers 250 miles ; the circuit of Lake COMPARATIVE INCREASE OF LAKE CITIES. Buffalo, N. Y. . Chicago, 111. . . . Cleveland, 0. . Detroit, Mich. . Milwaukee, Wis Oswego, N. Y. . Sandusky, 0. . Toledo, 1340. 18,213 4,470 6,071 9,102 1,700 • • • • 1,434 1,222 1850. 42,261 28,269 17,034 21,019 20,061 12,205 6,008 3,829 1868. 60,000* 60,000 40,000t 34,436 25,000 8,000 6,412 lS5fi. 85,000 100,000 60,000 48,000 42,000 16,000 10,000 12,000 * Mack Book annexed. t OMo City annexed. is. 1856. m* 85,000 )00 100,000 )00t 50,000 136 48,000 }00 42,000 » • • 16,000 DOO 10,000 112 12,000 TRIP FROM BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, SANDUSKY, TOLEDO, ETC. Steamers of a large class leaye Buffalo, daily, Sundays ex- cepted, for the different ports on the American or south shore of Lake Erie, connecting with railroad cars at Cleyeland, San- dusky, and Toledo. On leaving Buffalo harbor, which is formed by the mouth of Buffalo Creek where is erected a breakwater by the United States government, a fine view is afforded of the city of Buffalo, the Canada shore, and Lake Erie stretching off in the distance, with here and there a steamer or sail vessel in sight. As the steamer proceeds westward through the middle of the lake, the landscape fades in the distance, until nothing is visible but a broad expanse of green waters. Sturgeon Point, 20 miles from Buffalo, is passed on the south shore, when the lake immediately widens by the land receding on both shores. During the prevalence of storms, when the full blast of the wind sweeps through this lake, its force is now felt in its full power, driving the angry waves for- ward with the velocity of the race-horse, often causing the waters to rise at the lower end of the lake to a great height so as to overflow its banks, and forging its surplus waters into the Niagara River, which causes the only perceptible rise and increase of the rush of waters at the Falls. Dunkirk, N. Y., 42 miles from Buffalo, is advantageously situated on the shore of Lake Erie where terminates the J^Tew York and Erie Railroad, 460 miles in length. Here is a good and secure harbor, affording about twelve feet of water over the bar. A light-house, a beacon light and breakwater, the latter in a dilapidated state, have here been erected by the United States government. As an anchorage and port of refuge this harbor is extremely valuable, and is much resorted 14 \oS BUFFALO TO CLEVKLAND, TOLEDO, F.TO. If I. «;. to for that ' iirposo by steamers and sail vessels during the prevalence of storms ; there is twelve feet of water over the bar. The village was incorporated in 1837, and now contains about 4,000 inhabitants, 600 dwelling-houses, five churches, a bank, throe hotels, and 20 stores of different kinds, bcHides several extensive storehouses and manufacturing establish- ments. The Buffalo and State Line Railroad t extending to Erie, Pa., runs through Dunkirk, forming in part the Lake Shore line of railroad, which in connection with the railroad leading direct to the city o'i New York, affords great advantages to this locality, which is no doubt destined to increase with the grow- ing trade of the lake country. Fredonia, three miles from Dunkirk, with which it is con- nected by a plank-road, is handsomely situated, being elevated about 100 feet above Lake Erie. It contains about 2,300 inhabitants, 800 dwelling-houses, five churches, one bank, an incorporated academy, four taverns twenty stores, besides some mills and manufacturing establishments situated on Cana- doway Creek, which here afifords good water-power. In the village, near the bed of the creek, is an inflammable spring, from which escapes a sufficient quantity of gas to light the village. A gasometer is constructed which forces the gas through tubes to different parts of the village, the consumer paying $4 per year for each burner used. It is also used for lighting the streets of the village. The flame is large, but not 80 strong or brilliant as that obtained from gas in our cities ; Vj is, however, in high favor with the inhabitants. Barcelona, N. Y., 58 miles from Buffalo, is the westernmost village in the State. It is a port of entry, and is much resorted to by steamers and large vessels navigating the lake, affording a tolerable good harbor, where is situated a light-house which is righted by inflammable gas; it escapes from the bed of a creek about half a mile distant, and is carried in pipes to the light-honse. BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC. 159 The City of Erie, Pa., 00 miles from Buflfalo and 95 miles froiti Cleveland, is beautifully situated on a blu£f, affording a proHpect of Presque Isle Bay and the lake beyond. It has one of the largest and best harbors on Lake Erie, from whence sailed Perry's fleet during the war of 1812. The most of the vcijselH were here built, being finished in scTcnty days from the time * .e trees were felled ; and here the gallant yiotor returned with his prizes after the battle of Lake Erie, which took place September 10th, 1813. The remains of his flag-ship, the Law- renee, lie in the harbor, from which visitors are allowed to cut pieces as relics. On the high bank, a little distance from the town, are the ruins of the old French fort, Presque Isle. The city contains a court-house, nine churches, a bank, three hotels, a ship-yard, several extensive manufacturing establishments, and about 7,000 inhabitants. In addition to the lAike Shore Railroadf the Sunbury and Erie Railroad will terminate at this place, affording a direct communication with New York and Philadelphip . Presque Isle Bay is a lovely sheet of water, protected by an island projecting ioto Lake Erie. There is a light-house on the west side of the entrance to the bay, in lat. 42° 8' N. ; it shows a fixed light, elevated 98 feet above the surface of the lake, and visible for a distance of 15 miles. The beacon shows a fixed light, elevated 28 feet, and is visible for nine miles. CoNNEAUT, Ohio, 117 miles from Buflfalo and 68 from Cleve- land, situated in the northeast corner of the State, stands on a creek of the same name near its entrance into Lake Erie. It exports large quantities of lumber, grain, pork, beef, butter, cheese, etc., being surrounded by a rich agricultural section of country. The village contains about 3,000 inhabitants. The harbor of Conneaut lies two miles from the village, where b a light-house, a pier, and several warehouses." Ashtabula, Ohio, 14 miles farther west, stands on a stream of the same name, near its entrance into the lake. This is a thriving place, inhabited by an intelligent population estimated at 2,600. The harbor of Ashtabula is two and a half miles i 160 BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC. from the village, at the mouth of the riTer, where is a light- house. F AIRPORT stands on the east side of Grand Riyer, 155 miles from Buffalo. It has a good harbor for lake vessels, and is a port of considerable trade^ This harbor is so well defended from winds and easy of access, that vessels run in when they can not easily make other ports. Here is a light-house and a beacon to guide the mariner. pAiNEsviLLE, 0., three miles from Fairport and 30 miles from Cleveland, is a beautiful and flourishing town, being sur- rounded by a fine section of country. It is the county seat for Lake County, and contains a court-house, five churches, a bank, 20 stores, a number of beautiful residences, and about 3,000 inhabitants. The City of Cleveland is situated on an elevated plain at the entrance of Cuyahoga River into Lake Erie, in N. lat. 41° 30', W. Ion. 81° 47'. It is distant 185 miles from Buffalo, and 107 miles from Toledo by railroad route ; 120 miles from Detroit by steamboat route. Its harbor is spacious and safe when once entered, being formed by the mouth of the river. The city is regularly and beautifully laid out, ornamented with numerous shade- trees, from which it takes the name of *' Forest City ;" near its center is a large public square. It is the mart of one of the greatest grain-growing States in the Union, and has a ready communication by railroad with Albany, New York, and Philadelphia. The bluff on which it is built is 80 feet above the level of the lake, where stands a light-house, from which an extensive and magnificent view is obtained, overlooking the meandering of the Cuyahoga, the line of railroads, the shipping in the harbor, and the vessels passing on Lake Erie. The city contains a court-house, city hall, custom-house, college buildings, a lyceum, a public reading-room, a literary institution, which sustains a course of lectures during tlie winter season; 25 churches of different denominations, six banks, an insurance company, and several large and well-kept hotels, among which may be named the. Weddell House, the BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC. 161 Angier House, the American Hotel, and the Johnson House. It now boasts of 50,000 inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing in numbers and wealth. The Ohio Canal terminates here, forming a water communication with the Ohio River at different points. The railroads diverging from Cleveland are the Cleveland and Erie, 95 miles ; Cleveland and Pittsburgh, 100 miles, with several branches ; Cleveland and Mahoning, 67 miles finished ; Cleveland, Columbus and Cincinnati, 135 miles; and Cleveland and Toledo, Northern Division, 107 miles. These roads all run into one general depot, situated near the water's edge, afford- ing great facilities to the trans-shipment of freight of different kinds. The trade with the Upper Lakes is one of great and growing importance ; steamers leave daily for Detroit, Macki- nac, Green Bay, Chicago, the Saut Ste Marie, and Lake Superior. For list of steamers sailing from Cleveland and Detroit to the Upper Lakes, see page 140. Black River, 28 miles from Cleveland, is a small village with a good harbor, where is a ship-yard and other manufac- turing establishments. Vermilion, 10 miles farther on the line of the Cleveland and Toledo Railroad, is a place of considerable trade, situated at the mouth of a river of the sauio name. Huron, Ohio, 50 miles from (Cleveland and 10 miles from Sandusky, is situated at the mouth of Huron River, which affords a good harbor. It contains several churches, 15 or 20 stores, several warehouses, and about 2,000 inhabitants The islands lying near the hqad of Lake Erie, off Sandusky, are Kelley's Island, North Bass, Middle Bass, and South Bass islands, besides several smaller islands, forming altogether a handsome group. Kelley's Island is the largest and most important, but on the north side of South Bass Island lies the secure harbor of Put-in Bay, made celebrated by being the rendezvous of Com. Perry's flotilla before and after the decisive battle of Lake Erie, which resulted in the capture of the entire British fleet. 162 BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC. NAVAL BATTLE ON LAKE ERIE. September 10th, 1813, the hostile fleets of England and the United States on Lake Erie met near the head of the lake, and a sanguinary battle ensued. The fleet bearing the " red cross" of England consisted of six vessels, carrying 64 guns, under command of the veteran Com Barclay ; and the fleet bearing the " broad stripes and bright stars" ^ the United States, con- sisted of nine vessels, carrying 54 guns, un^nr command of the young and inexperienced, but brave, Com. Oliver H. Perry. The result of this important conflict was made known to the world in the following laconic dispatch, written at 4 p.m. of that day : « Dear General : We have met the enemy, and they are ours. Two ships, two brigs, one schooner, and one sloop. «« With esteem, etc., 0. H. Perrv. " Gen. William Jones." Mr. Powell, the artist, who painted the De Soto picture for Congress, has been appointed by the ^ Mo Legislature to paint a representation of Perry's Victors on Lake Erie — the price not to exceed $5,000. It will be placed in one of the panels of the rotunda of the new State {louse in Columbus, the capital of the State. Hi / OHIO RIVER AND LAKE BRIB CANALS. 163 BAILBOAD BOUTE ABOUND LAKE EBIE. This important body of water being encompassed by a band of iron, wo subjoin the following Table of Distances: Miles. Buffalo to Paris, C. W., via Buffalo and Lake Huron Railroad 84 Paris to Windsor or Detroit, via Great Western Railway. 158 Detroit to Toledo, Ohio, via Detroit and Toledo R.R 63 Toledo to Cleveland, via Cleveland and Toledo R.R 107 Cleveland to Erie, Pa., via Cleveland and Erie R.R 05 Erie to Buffalo, via LaAre Shore Road 88 Total miles : 695 The extreme length of Lake Erie is 250 miles, from the nouth of Niagara River to Maumee Bay ; the circuit of the lake about 660 miles, being about 100 miles lesa distance than has been stated by some writers on the great lakes. OHIO BIYEB AND LAKE EBIE CANALS. The completion of the Miami Canal makes four distinct channels of communication from the Ohio Iliver through the State of Ohio to Lake Erie, namely : 1. The Erie Extension Canal, from Beaver, twenty or thirty miles below Pittsburgh , to Erio, 136 miles. 2. The Cross- Cut Beaver Canal, which is an extension or branch from Newcastle, Pa., on the Beaver Canal, to Akron, Ohio, where it nnites with the Portsmouth and Cleveland Canal— making a canal route from Beaver to Cleveland of 143 miles. 8. The Ohio Canal, from Cleveland to Portsmouth, through the center of the State, 809 miles. 4. The Miami Extension, which is a union of the Miami Canal with the Wabash and Erie Canal, through Dayton, terminating at Toledo, at the mouth of the Maumee River on Lake Erie, 247 miles. The vast and increas- ing business of the Ohio Valley may furnish business for all these canals. They embrace rich portions of Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Indiana ; but are not so located as to be free from competition with one another. At no distant time, they would unquestionably command a sufficient independent business, were it not probable that they may be superseded by railways. The capacity of railways — both for rapid and cheap transporta- tion — as it 18 developed by circumstances and the progress of science, is destined to affect very materially the value and im- portance of canals. ' 164 DISCOVERY OF A NEW HARBOR. OPENING OF NAVIGATION IN L\KE ERIE. The following table, prepared by the Df^ii ^it Advertiser^ from back files, shows th") time when nayigatioii has opened at tbis port for the past seventeen years : 1840.. March 8.... 1841.. April 18.... 1842.. March 3.... 1843.. April 18.... 1844.. March 11 1845..Jan*y 4 1846.. March 14 Steamer Star arrived from Cleveland. (( 1847. 1848. 1849. 1850. 1851. 1852. 1853. 1854. 1855. 1856. Gen. Wayne arrived from BuflFalo. Gen. Scott cl'd for Buffalo. Fairport cl'd for Cleveland. Red Jacket cl'd for Fort Gratiot. United States arrived from Buffalo. John Owen arrived from Cleveland. " 30.... " United States " « 22 Prop. Manhattan cl'd for Buffalo. 21 Steamer John Owen cl'd for Cleveland. {€ (( (( (( « «( it t€ *t {( « C( April (( 25., 19., 22. 14. 24. 2. 16. 18e7.. March 24.... it «( (( (C (C tt it it Southerner arrived from Buffalo. HoUister «< " Toledo. Arrow cl'd for Toledo. Bay City arrived from Sandusky. May Queen " " Cleveland. Arrow cl'd for Toledo. May Queen cl'd for Cleveland. Ocean cleared for Cleveland. h DI8C0VEEY OF A NEW HARBOB IN LAKE HURON. We learn fvom a Michigan paper that Capt. W. Gilmore, of the brig Sultan, yiaving come into collision with a vessel off the Middle IsUnd, on the night of October 27th, 1856, was driven by stress of the accident into Bail du Berd, on the north side of Lake Huron, about eighty miles above Goderich. Captain Gilmore, in a letter to the editor of the Port Bruce Pioneer, states that there is plenty of water in the harbor for the largest vessel on the lakes, and a safe anchorage A pier inside the harbor is alone wanted to render the accommodations perfect. The captain expresses the opinion, that a light-house and a pier would render this bay one of the finest harbors on the lakes. Since this letter was written, we are informed that a small town has been planted in that locality. . 1 BUFFALO Buffalo Citt, Erie Co., N. Y., possessing commanding ad- Tantages, is distant from Albany 298 miles by railroad, and ibont 350 miles by the line of the Erie Canal ; in N. lat. 42° 53', W. long. 78° 65' from Greenwich. It is favorably ghuated for commerce at the head of Niagara Riyer, the outlet of Lake Erie, and at the foot of the great chain of Western l&kes, and is the point where the vast trade of these inland eeas is concentrated. The harbor, formed of Bu£falo Creek, lies nearly east and west across the southern part of tne city, and is separated from the waters of LtVe Erie by a peninsula be- tween the creek and lake. This harbor is a very secure one, anil is of such capacity, that although steamboats, ships, and other lake craft, and canal boats, to the number, in all, of from three to four hundred, have sometimes been assembled there for the transaction of the business of the lakes, yet not one half part of the water acco: ^modations has ever yet been occupied by the vast business of the great and growing West. The har- bor of Buffalo is the most capacious, and really the easiest and safest of access on our inland waters. Improyements are an- nually made by dreclging, by the construction of new piers> wh&nree, warehouses, and eleyators, which extend its facilities, and render the discharge and trans-shipment of cargoes more rapid and conyenieut; and in this latter respect is without an equal. Buffalo was first settled by the whites in 1801. Tn 1832 it was chartered as a city, being now goyemed by a mayor, recorder, and board of aldermen. Its population in 1830, according to the United States Census, was 8,668 ; in 1840, 18,213 ; and in 1850, 42,261. Since the latter period the limits of the city haye been enlarged by taking in the town of Black Rock ; it is now divided into thirteen wards, and, according to the State Census of 1855, contained 74,214 inhabitants, being now the third city 166 BUFFALO. iril in point of site in tho State of New York The public build- ings are numerous, and many of them fine specimens of archi- tecture ; while the private buildings, particularly those for busi- ness purposes, are of the most durable construction and modem style. The manufacturing establishments are also numerous, and conducted on a large scale, producing manufactured articles for the American and Canadian markets. The lines of i^teamers and railroads diverging from Buffalo tend to make it one of the greatest thoroughfares in the Union. Steamers and propellers run to Cleveland, Toledo, Detroit, Mackinac, Saut Ste Marie, Green Bay, Milwaukee, Chicago, et<;. The railroads diverging from Buffalo are the New York Cen- tral, extending to Albany 298 miles by direct route ; Buffalo Division of the New York and Erie Railroad ; Lake Shore Hail- road ; Buffalo, Niagara Falls, and Lewiston Railroad ; and the Buffalo and Huron Railroad, the latter running through Can- ada to Goderich on Lake Huron, and connecting with the Great Western Railway, terminating at Windsor, opposite Detroit. The principal hotels are the American, Clarendon, Commer- cial, and Mansion House, on Main Street, and the Western Hotel, facing the Terrace. ** The climate of Buffalo is, without doubt, of a more evoi temperature than any other city in the same parallel of lati- tude from the Mississippi to the Atlantic coast. Observations have shown that the thermometer never ranees as low in win- ter, nor as high in summer, as at points in Massaohusetts, the eastern and central portions of this State, the northern and southern shores of Lake Erie, in Michigan, Northern Illinois, and Wisconsin. The winters are not as keen, nor the summers, cooled by the breezes from the lake, as sultry ; and in a sani- tary point of view, it is probably the healthiest city in the world. ' " London, usually considered the healthiest of cities, has & ratio of one death in forty inhabitants. The ratio of Buffalo is one in fifty-six. The favorable situation of the city for drainage, and for a supply of pure water ; its broad, well-paved j streets, lined with shrubbery and shade-trees ; its comparatiTelj | mild winters ; its cool summers ; its pleasant drives and pictur- esque suburbs, and its proximity to the * Falls,* combine to | render it on^ of the most desirable residences on the contiuflnt." In reg centers i "Few of unintc miles, coi aggregate exceed th an amou] witnessed of tho shi sea of vas BUFFALO. 167 iblic bnild- is of arcbi- «e for bud- md modern numerous, ired articles • Vom Buffalo 1 the Union, do, Detroit, Chicago, etc. w York Cen- ,ute; Buffalo 8 Shore Rail- )ad ; and the through Can- ith the Great te Detroit. ion, Commer- the Weetern a more even .rallel of lati- Observations tB lovv in vin- achusetts, the northern and ihern Illinois, the summers, md in a sani- jt city in the In regard to the commerce of the '* Far West," much of which centers in Buffalo, a writer justly remarks : " Few men have duly estimated the value of our 1,500 miles of uninterrupted lake navigation. A coast of upward of 3,000 miles, connecting with numerous canals and railroads, whose aggregate length, when they shall be completed, will greatly exceed the length of all our inland seas and coasts, must create an amount of commerce far greater than has ever yet been witnessed on the waters of the Mediterranean. The completion of the ship canal at the Saut Ste Marie alone opens an inlani sea of vast and growing importance." TRADE AND COMMERCE OP BUFFALO— 1856. IMPORTS BY LAKK. V^ V The annual tables of the Lake Trade during the year, with some additional comparative statements showing the course of trade, the increase and decrease in the general average value of most articles, and other matters of interest concerning this trade during the year 1856, are copied from the Buffalo Courier. The value of Imports by Lake for the past six years is as follows : m\ $31,889,951 iP!'>2 84,943,865 1863 36,881,230 1854 $45,030,931 1856 6),846,8]9 1866 45,684,079 This table exhibits a steady increase in the yearly valuation of the Lake Imports until last vcar, when there is a decrease as compared with 1866 of $4,662,740. This large decrease has been occasioned, not by a falling off in the receq>ts of the more valuable articles of import, but by the decline in the average value of nearly every description of produce. The following table will show the different States through whose ports have been shipped the following produce received at this port.. Through Cleveland, Sandusky, Toledo, and a few I smaller ports, we have received the products of Ohio, Indiana, Southern Illinois, and Kentucky, and through Chicago, the pro- [doots of Illinois, Iowa, Indiana, and Missouri. Hoar. lOhio ports ...641,166 [Michigan ....203,125 ilinois 122,472 Tisconsm 116,427 Canada 60,906 Wheat 826,016 495,289 6,127,947 1,707,798 886,067 Cora. 1,717,130 164,497 7,922,461 62,702 Oats. 1,094,016 42,314 648,826 89,146 Total... 1.143,086 8,643,117 9,846,790 1,723,801 Wr 168 BUFFALO. The following Table will sUow the entranoeH and clearances of foreign and Amerioan vessels, together ^th their tonnage and crews during the year 18^6, and the total for the past 7 years : Arrived. No. American vessels from foreign ports 112 Foreign do., do 718 830 Total Cleared. Amer. vessels to foreign ports 181 Foreign do., do 632 Total. Inward Outwari: 'tJi' ' trade. 813 3,292 8,193 Tom. 17,746 71,039 88,784 80,607 62,838 93,440 1,441,668 1,424,702 Crews. (« i( «« « «c « « <« 5,912 1,193 5,580 6,773 49,656 49,210 98,766 111.451 111,515 120,838 128,112 127,491 120,542 125,562 Total 6,485 2,866,366 Grand Total for 1856 8,128 3,048,689 •« •» 1865 9,231 8,360,233 " 1864 8,972 8,996,284 « 1863 8,298 3,262,978 « 1862 9,441 3,092,247 «* 1861 9,060 3,087,633 « 1860 8,444 2,743,700 The amount of new tonnage now on the stocks both at this and other Western ports, and destined for the trade of this city and the West, will, we believe, increase the tonnage entering and departing from this district very materially during the coming season (1857), and that it must exceed any former year. Losses on the Lakes.— If the losses on the great Lakes during the past year are any indication of the amount of com* merce on our inland seas, it must have grown enormously since 1848. In that year the losses amounted to but a little oyer $400,000; in 1863 they had increased to nearly a million; in 1854 they were a little over two millions ; in 1866 over two and a half millions ; but the present year, 1866, they have reached the fearful 8um of over three millions. But, large as this amount is, it does not seem so great when it is viewed in con- nection with the statement that the commerce of the Lakes passing the St. Clair Flats amounted in 1856 to more than three hundred millions of dollars, while the coasting trade not in- cluded in that estimate amounts to at least a hundred millions more. This looks very much like the coarse of empire taking a westerly direction. Inc Synoj derwriti 1856. Steamei PropelU Barques Brigs.. Sohoonc Tot ii.fc"' „ BUFFALO. 109 md clearances ir tonnage and past 7 years : '• Crews. 46 39 84 07 38 40 63 02 66 ;89 !33 584 178 ^7 >33 (00 ks both at this Eide of this city onage entering \\j during the ly former year. le great Lakes mount of com- Lormously since it a little oyer r a million; in 6 over two and y have reached , large as this! viewed in con- I of the Lakes lore than three] trade not in* mdred millions I empire takisgl m 5,314 5,912 1,193 6,580 6,773 49,656 49,210 98,766 111.451 111,515 120,838 128,112 127,491 120,542 125,562 RECAPITULATION OF LOSSES ON THE LAKES — 1866. Losses in May, steam and sail ..^ $142,600 June, July, August, September,** October, *« November, ** December, *< (I *• 118,660 ** 266,180 ** 67,760 842,860 882,089 1,069,896 « 169,660 « Total loss, 8t«am and sail, in 1866 $8,038,874 «• *• ** in 1866 2,797,839 Increased loss Total loss of life in 1866 407 «• in 1866 118 241,086 (( Increase Loss on steam hulls Loss on cargoes by steam :89 $732,800 646,300 Total loss by steam in 1866 1,878,100 in 1866 1,692,700 « «« Decrease in 1866 $814,600 Loss on sail hulls 868,676 Loss on cargoes by sul 797,099 Total loss by sail in 1856 1,660,714 «* in 1855 1,106,189 « Increase in 1866 $666,685 Synopsis of the Marine Re^ster derwriters of vessels in commission 1856. Number. Steamers 107 Propellers 185 Barques 66 Brigs 108 Schooners 860 of the Board of Lake Un- on the lakes in the fall of Totid 1,266 Tonnage. 62,868 64,676 21,778 27,046 178,880 Gash Value. $3,820,400 2,741,200 673,800 701,860 6,487,100 839,786 $12,944,860 D. P. DOBBINS, Sei^y Board of Lake Underwritors. 16 p i^^KflHi^ '^ if Ji^'' ¥ iif 1 'A 170 BUFFALO. EXPORTS PROM UP-LAKE PORTS TO BUFFALO. ST.\TE}£EyTy Hltowing the teveral amounta of Flour and Oraintgt»\ ported by Lake from various ports to Buffalo^ during the sf.unon jy 1856: , Flour, Wht'Ht, bbU. biiMh. Ashtabula 2,500 Allensburgh 1,200 Bayfluld, 0. W 6^115 Bluck River Braiitford, 0. W 16,281 82,003 Port Burwell, C. W 18,164 Caledonia, O.W...; 2726 Cayuga. 7,628 41,127 Cleveland 245,512 72,577 Corn, bUKb. t • • • • I On'8. bu«h. •#•••• Hv(, biiitli. 1,600 • ■ • • • I ••••■•• 84,202 • • • • • 117 289 Chicago 119,772 6,100,298 7,884',615 Coimeaut 1,200 Detroit 189,809 888,898 Port Dover, 0. W 18,086 89,718 Dunnville, C.W 2,228 19,502 Krlo Fremont. 9,676 FortErie,C.W 7,077 Grand Haven 8,955 87,891 Green Bay 1,864 15 > Goderlch, 0. W 600 26,164 Huron 827 20,8S9 Indiana 1,671 ... ... Kenosha 606 106,848 Maltland, 0. W 8,7S0 Milwaukee 106,866 1,440,887 Michigan City 26,829 Milan.. 40 Monroe 995 78,909 Morpeth, C.W 5,000 Port Washington 1,463 8,210 Perrysburg 2,875 Racine 1,622 68,763 Port Robinson, C. W 4,686 Port Rowan, 0. W 867 465 Ryerse, C. W 2,977 6,400 Saginaw 766 Sandusky. 178,664 69,218 Sheboygan 898 87,082 Port Stanley, C. W « 2,295 99,716 Toledo 208,417 621,164 Venice 100 VermUlon 2,810 Waukegan 124 61,870 York 2,624 1*997 172,087 687,9S6 IS «!),78« 64,997 43,411 26S 6,995 86,000 274IW 11,808 281,428 252,916 8S,182 84,000 81,269 6,700 I • • • • • I • • • • • !•••••• 48,241 88J792 ••••••»• •••••••• 210,687 421,147 ••••••• ••••■••• ••«•••• •••••■•• 987,579 81,157 8,000 20,000 20,088 80,650 188 • •••*••• • ••■■••• "63,756 • •••••I* • • •• •••• 24,003 > • • • • • Totals 1,126,048 8,466,671 9,682,477 1,788,882 245,810 lUPPALO. /• a'ld Grain «> ing tfie neanon oj „„ I TRIP. FROM BUFFALO TO MACKINAC, CHICAGO, ETC. This is a deeply interesting excursion, calculated to give ']'][ I the traveler a just conception of the great iniand seas of North I America, inasmuch as the route traverses Lakes Erie, St. Clair, IS I 172,087 fiOM I Huron, and Michigan, a total distance of more than a thousand 687,9S« ....■., ^'^^i I If to this is added a trip to the Falls of St. Mary (Saut de Ste Marie), in the outlet of Lake Superior, and connecting it 80,000 11,808 I ^^^ Lake Huron — to the Manitoulin Islands in the northern quarter of Lake Huron, their very name implying scenery fitted to excite sublime emotions, and suggesting the strong sentiment ****** ••••••■ ^H 252,916 83,182 | of religious awe which characterized the primitive red man — if these he added to the tour, no excursion of equal extent can be ^241 ■ ^^^^^ *^** presents a greater variety of picturesque and mag- I nificent scenery. Besides the above grand excursion, Lake Su- ' ■ perior alone affords ample inducements for the tourist to extend ■ his visit to this greatest of all the inland seas of America. As this excursion begins on Lake Erie, we begin our guid- ance with a brief description of thai noble and most useful body of water. 121147 M7sfl ■ ^^^^ Erie, washing the shores of four of these United States— New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Michigan — and 81,i57 '24003 I ^I'e&ding between them and a large segment of the British |^'9^ I province of Canada West, with the line of division as settled I by treaty, running through the middle of the lake, is 250 miles long by 40 to GO miles wide. Its surface, as ascertained by the '88,882 245,810 | engineers of the Erie Canal, is 565 feet above the Hudson River at Albany, and 880 feet above Lake Ontario. The greatest depth oi the lake yet observed is 204 feet. This is compara- tively shallow ; and the relative depths of the great series of lakes may be illustrated by saying, that the surplus waters 172 BUFFALO TO MACKINAC, CHICAGO, VTO. hv.> . « poured from the vaat baaim of Superior, Huron, and Michigan flow across the plate of Erie into the deep bowl of Ontario. Lake Erie is reputed to be the only one of the series in whioh any current is perceptible. The fact, if it is ono, I? usually ascribed to its shallowness; but the vast volume of its outlet — the Niagara River — with its strong current, ib a much more favorable cause than the small depth of its water, which may be far more appropriately adduced as the reason why tbo navigation is obstructed by ice much more than either of the other great lakes. The New York shore of Lake Erie extends about 60 miles, in the course of which the lake receives a num- ber of streams, the most considerable of which are the Buffalo and Cattaraugus creeks; and presents several harbors, the most importa^t of which at present are Buffalo Creek and Dunkirk. As connected with trade and navigation, this lake is far the most important of all the great chain, not only because it is bordered by older settlements than any of them, except Ontario, but still more because, from its position, it concentrates the trade of the vast West. When WQ consider the extent, not only of this lake, but of Huron, 260 mile«i long ; of Michigan, 830 miles long ; of Su- perior, 420 miles long, the largest body of fresh water on the globe, we may quote !vith emphasis the words of an English writer : " How little are they aware, in Europe, of the extent of commerce upon these inland seas, whose coasts are now lined with flourishing towns and cities; whose waters are plowed with magnificent steamers, and hundreds of vessels crowded with merchandise! Even the Americans themselves are not fully aware of the rising importance of these lakes, as connected with the West." THE FI Tk^. folli work, print( ,)/ a very i Hennepin. " It now obiect, to c< ficiently lai carry on a Tfestern lak miles above built a docl "On the ready. La S bolt, but th " During to Fort Fi Italian nai Father Hen ersed the c companions sisting on i two days' j ing of the v boring save beyond La tempted th( cessfuUy w friendly sqi which was (Usheartcnc the work h • There ca their bark w falls. Govei craft, in his J Ctttes the sti mouth of th( the Tonawa only Htream t Now Kli '0. ;*. 1 id Mchigan ntario. eerier in t is one, I? )lume of its b, iti a much ater, which son why the itlier of the irie extends iyes a num* the Buffalo arbors, the Creek and :e is far the ocause it is apt Ontario, ntrates the :ako, but of mg; of Su- rater on the an English Le extent of e now lined are plowed >l8 crowvled es are not s oonnected THE FlRSr VESSEL WHICH NAVIGATED THE UPPER LAKES. Tk^ following account is trarslated from an old French work, printed ia 1688, entitled, '*^/» .Account of the Disea^^er]^ of a very great Country situated in America" by Fa:her Hennepin. It r/ill be read with interest. " It now became necessary for La Salle, in furtherance of his obicct, to construct a vessel above the Falls of Niagara, suf- ficiently largo to transport the men and goods necessary to carry on a profitable trade with the savages residing on the irestern lakes. On the 22d of January, 1(^79, they went six miles above the falls to the mouth of a small creek, and there built a dock convenient for the construction of their vessel.* " On the 2()th of January, the keel and other pieces being ready, La Salle requested Father Hennepin to drive the first bolt, but the modesty of the good father's profession prevented. " During the rigorous winter. La Salle determined to return to Fort Frontenac;t and leaving the dock in charge of an Italian named Chevalier Tuti, he started, accompanied by Father Henacpin as far as Lake Ontario ; from thence he trav- ersed the dreary forests to Frontenao on foot, with only two companions and a dog, which drew his baggage on a sled, sub- sisting on nothing but parched corn, and even that failed him two days* journey from the fort. In the mean time the build- ing of the vessel went ou under the suspicious eyes of the neigh- boring savages, although the most part of them had gone to war beyond Lake Erie. One of them, feigning intoxication, at- tempted the life of the blacksmith, who defended himself suc- cessfully with a red-hot bar of iron. The timely warning of a friendly squaw averted the burning of their vessel on the stocks, which was dosigned by the savages. The workmen were almost disheartened by frequent alarms, and would have abandoned the work had they not been cheered by the good father, who ♦ There can be but little doubt that the place they selected for building their baric was the moutti of the Cayuga Creelt, about six miles a*>ove the falls. Governor Cass says " the vessel was launched at Erie ;" School- craft, in his Journal, says, " near BufTalo ;" and the historian Bancroft lo- cates the site at tlie mouth of Tonawanda Creek. Hennepin says the mouth of the creek was two leagues above the great falls ; the mouth of the Tonawanda is more than twice that distance, and the Cayuga is th' oaly stream that answers to the description. t Now Kingston, Canada. 15» ■''■-^l '■^ ,c,. if. (*i * I, ?f 'f fV 174 UPPER LAKES represented tne great advantage their perseverance would afford, and how much their success would redound to the glory of God. These and other inducements accelerated the work, and the I vessel was soon ready to be launched, though not entirely finished. Chantine Te Deum, and firing three guns, they com- mitted her to the river amid cries of joy, and swung their ham- mocKS in security from the wild beasts, and still more dreaded Indians. " When the Senecas returned from their expedition, they were greatly astonished at the floating fort. ' which struck terror among all the savages who lived on the great lakes and rivers within fifteen hundred miles.* Hennepin ascended the river in a bark canoe with one of his companions as far as Lake Erie. They twice pulled the canoe up the rapids, and sounded the lake for the purpose of ascertaining the depth. He re- ported that with a favorable north or northwest wind the vessel could ascend to the lake, and then sail without diflficulty over its whole extent. Soon after the vessel was launched in the cur- rent of Niagara, about four fxnd a half miles from the lake. Hennepin left it for Fort Frontenac, and returning with La Salle and two other fathers, Gabriel and Zenobe Mambre, anchored in the Niagara the 80th July, 1679. On the 4th of August they reached the dock where the ship was built, which he calls distant eighteen miles from Lake Ontario, and pro- ceeded from thence in a bark canoe to their vessel, which thev found at anchor three miles from the ' beautiful Lake Erie.' " The vessel was of 60 tons burden, completely rigged, and found with all the necessaries, arms, provisions, and merchan- dise ; it had seven small pieces of cannon on board, two of which were of brass. There was a griffin flying at the jib-boom, and an eagle above. There were also the ordinary ornaments and other fixtures which usually grace a ship of war. *' They endeavored many times to ascend the current of the Niagara into Lake Erie without success, the wind not being strong enough. While they were thug detained, La Salle em- ployed a few of his men in clearing some land on the Cana!. P IB m. \t,t '*■ I Jp " II';.* . 'V' n ,.l. i ^ 176 NAVIGATION OF THE LAK!<:S. " Thus ended the first voyage of the first ship that sailed over the Western Lakes. What a contrast is presented between the silent waves and unbroken forests which witnessed the course of that adventurous bark, and the busy hum of commerce whicii now rises from the fertile bottoms, and the thousand ships and smoking palaces which now furrow the surface of those inland seas! NAVIGATION OF THE LAKES. From the Buffalo Commercial Advertiser — 1S48. "I HAVE noticed several communications in your paper re- cently, in relation to the early Navigation of the Likes by American vessels, and as you solicit further communications on the subject. I give you such facts as 1 am acquainted with, and will add, that in regard to many of them I have vouchers to establish their correctness. *' I first visited Lake Erie and the Niagara Biver in August, 1795 ; and from an early period, until within the last twenty years, have been more or less interested in the navigation of the lakes. " It is well known that the military posts of Oswego, Niagara, Detroit, and Mackinac were not surrendered to the United States until the fore part of the year 1796, under Jay's treaty. Boats had not been permitted to pass Oswego into Lake Ontario, and as no settlements of importance had been made previous to that time on the American shores of the lakes (excepting the old French settlements in the neighborhood of these ports, and they were under the jurisdiction and influence of the British govern- ment), no vessels were required, and, of course, none had been built. ** In August, 1795, 1 left Canandaigua on a journey to Presque Isle—now Erie, Pennsylvania. The country west of Genesee River, excepting a tract twelve miles in width extending from opposite Avon along the river to its mouth, had not then been purchased of the Indians, and no roads opened. We, of course, followed the Indian trail to ."* iffalo. " At that time the only residents at that place, as far nsl recollect, Avere William Johnson, the British Indian interpreter, whose house stood on the site of the present Mansion House, an Indian trader named Winneo, a negro named Joe, also a trader, both of whom resided on the flfita near the mouth of Little Buffalo, and a Dutchman by the name of Middough, with a family, who resided some forty or fifty rods east of Johnson's. A large portion of the ground now occupied by your beautiful city was then an unbroken wilderness. NAVIGATION OF THE LAKES. 177 it sailed over between the the course merce which nd ships and those inlani ur pnper re- le Likes by mications on ed with, and vouchers to r in August, last twenty lavigation of igo, Niagara, Jnited States eaty. Boats Ontario, and vious to that ting the old rts, and they itish govern- me had been 3y to Presque b of Genesee ending from lot then been i' e, of course, 3, as far as I I interpreter, on House, an lIso a trader, Lith of Little >ugh, with ft )f Johnson's. mr beautiful " At that time I am not aware that a single vessel was owned on the Unit^id States side of the lakes, and remember that Capt. Lee, who would have known, informed me that there were none. " In 1796 I was employed by the Connecticut Land Company to survey the Western Reserve, and I prepared to go on early in the season, with several other surveyors, and a party of men to perform the work. At Schenectady we fitted out three bat- teaux, manned by four hands each, with the necesstrry articles for the expedition, such as tents, blanketo, cooking utensils, groceries, etc., with a quantity of dry goods, designed as pres- ents to the Indians. " These boats were put under the care of Mr. Joshua Stow, uncle of Judge Stow, of Buffalo Understanding that the mil- itary posts at Oswego and Niagara were to be given up to the United State-j early this spring, under a stipulation in Jay's treaty, Mr. Stow took ttie route by Oswego and Niagara to Queenston. On his arrival at Oswego, that port had not been surrendered, and the boats were not permitted to pass. Deter- mined not to be delayed, Mr. Stow took the boats a mile or two up the river, and the night following ran them past the fort into the lake and ifiursued his voyage, and before arriving at Niagiua that post nad passed into the possession of our troops. He landed at Queenston, had his boats and loading taken to Chippewa, where he took in provisions to compete his cargoes, which had been purchased at Canandaigua, and forwarded by the way of Irondequoit and the lake in open boats, and arrived a day or two before. " At Buffalo he was met by others of the party, who had come on by land, among these, Gen. Moses Cleveland, one of the directors of the Connecticut Land Company (from whom the city of Cleveland took its name), who, by way of securing the good-will ^t the Indians to the expedition, held a council and distributed presents among them. The expedition went on from here, a paio by the boats, and a part by land with pack- horses, and arri\ed at the mouth of Conneaut Creek on the 4th of July, 1796, and celebrated the day. The party then con- sisted of fifty- two persons. At this time, as we ascertained, there was not a white person residing on the Reserve, excepting a French family just within the iiouth of Sandusky Bay. " Oi>e of our boats was employed during the season in bring- ing up supplies of provisions from Chippewa, and in October, on her up trip, was wrecktMi in a gale off the mouth of Chau- tuuque Creek, and Tinker, the master, drowned. " No American vvissels had yet been built, and some of the baggage and stores for the troops at Detroit had l)een trans- ported from Western Pennsylvania by the contractor, Gen. it "in r< m h 178 NAVIGATION OF THB LAKES. It ■3 k I'-t II. I w..,^-^ .!'» w\ - O'Hara, up the valley of the BJg Beavf r, and t)iroagh the v/ii- den less to Detroit, on pack-horses. •' Between the years of 1796 and 1800 (I »4m uaobTo to par- ticwlurize the year), the schooner Gen, Tracy rap b'l'It at De- troit, and in August, 1808, purchased by P.rte'.> Bar .on & Co. and thoroughly repaired, and on her second or third trip was wrecked on the Fort Erie reef in 1809. " The brig Adams, a government vessel, was built about the same time as the Gen. Tracy, and was sailed by Capt. Srevoort "for a number of years. She was built at Detroit. *' A small vessel called the Good Intent was built ;t Presque Isle by Capt. Wm. Lee, and I believe was partly, and perhaps wholly, owned by Rufns S. Reed. She, I think, was built about 1800, and wrecked near Point Abino in 1805. ** In 1802 the schooner Gen. Wilkinson, of 70 tons, was built at Detroit, and in 1811 thoroughly repaired, and her name changed to Amelia. She was sold to the United States during the war. " In the winter of 1802 and '3 the sloop Contractor, of 6! tons, was built at Black Rock by the company having the gov- ernment contract for the supply of the militur^ posts, under the superintendence of Captain \Villiam Lee, by whom she was sailed until 1809, and afterward ty Capt. Jftinv,^ Beard. In 1803 or '4 a small sloop called th-; Niagara, cC 30 tons, was built at Cayuga Creek, on the Niagara River, by she U. S. government, but not put in commission. She was purchased by Porter, Barton & Co. in 1806, and her name changed to the Nancy, and sailed by Captain Richard ONeil. " In 1806 the schooner Mary, of 105 tons, Aas built at Erie by Thomas Wilson, and purchased the one half by James Rough and George Bueshler, and the other half by Porter, Barton & Co. in 1808, and sailed 'aptain Rough until the war, and then sold to the United t s. " In 1808 Porter, Barton & Co. purchased the schooner Ran- ger of George Wilber, then several years old — she was repaired and sailed by Capt. Hathaway. In 1810 the sloop Erie was built at Black Rock bj Porter, Barton & Co. , and sold to the United States in time of the war. The schooner Salina, sailed by Capt. Dobbins, and the schooner Eleanor, and probably others that I do not recollect, were built and sailed before the w£ r, but I am unable to say where and when they were built, or by whom owned. '* On Lake Ontario I find that previous to 1809, and during ^ hat year, the following vessels had been built, and were en- gaged in the commerce of the lake : Schooner Fair American, owned by M .cthew M'Nair, of Oswego. Theophilus Pease, mas- tei ; also, suhooners Lark, island Packet, Eagle, Mary, Farmer, Two Broiutjrs, Experiment, and Democrat, " Some t l^ f v» ouilt, *' "In 1801 Barton & C the war. " In 1801 lower end ( to Lewiatoi Barton & C " In addi commission Charles am " A num ing the wai ployed in tl " The foi vessels own( aed it is n( piete one. Noub;. — I was built a about thirty In 1822 t was built; period to Since 1830 Lake Erie i Nidded. NAVIGATION OP THE LAKEB. 179 II ;h tiievii- >Tv) to par- AJit at De- r:ou & Co. d trip was ftbout the t. Brevoort at Presque id perhaps built about '•as built at le changed 5 the war. ctor, of 6i ig the gov- osts, under L)m she was Beard. In ) tons, was r,he U. S. purchased iged to the lilt at Erie mea Hough ', Barton & LO war, and ooner Ran- as repaired Erie was sold to the ina, sailed probably before the were built, ind during d were en- American, :*ease, mas- •y,Fftrraer, " Some time preTior to the war the United States biig Oneida f »»« ouilt, and comma ided by Captain Woolsey. " In 1809 the schooner Ontario, of 70 t«t>« via bnil t by Po^W, Barton & Co. at Lewist jii, and sold to the United Stc tou Juring the war. " In 1809 the schooner Cambria was built on an island at the lower end of Lake Ontario, and brought in an nnfinished state to Lewiston, where she was parohased and fitted out by Porter , Barton & Co. , and her name changed to Niagara. " In addition to the foregoing vessels, the following were in commission in 1810 : Schooner Diana, sloop Marion, schooners Charles and Ann, Gold Hunter, end Genesee Packet. *' A number of vessels on both lakes, owned and armed dur- ing the war by the United States, were afterward sold and em- ployed in the commerce of the lakes. " The foregoing is a very imperfect history of the American vessels owned and employed on the lakes previous to the war, and it is not probable that any individual can furnish a com- plete one. As far as it goes, I believe it to be tolerably correct. " Aug's Porter." NoiJ!:.— In 1818 the first steamboat, " ^alk-in-thc- Water," was built at Black Rock ; at which time there were, in all, about thirty sail of vessels on the Upper Lakes. In 1822 the Superior (1st.) was built ; in 1824 the Chippewa wa^ built; and in 1825 three more were added; from this period to 1830 four more steamers were added to the list. Since 1830 about two hundred steamers have been built on Lake Erie and the Upper Lakes, a list of which is hereafter Ided. s> "ll 1^ ^ MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES. I LcUee Superior, at a height of 600 feet above the sea, is 420 miles long, 160 miles broad, and 1,000 feet deep. It discharges its waters by the strait, or river St. Mary, 50 miles long, into Lake Huron, which lies 27 feet below. Lake Michigan, 576 feet above the sea, is 320 miles long, 82 miles broad, and 900 feet deep. It discharges its surplus waters through the Strait of Mackinac, 50 miles in length, into Lake Huron, nearly on a level. Green Bay, at about tbe same elevation as Lake Michigan, is 100 miles long, 20 miles broad, and 60 feet deep. Lake Huron, at a height of 574 feet above the sea, is 260 miles long, 110 miles broad, and 900 feet deep. Georgian, Bay, lying northeast of Lake Huron and of the same altitude, is 130 miles lorg and 55 miles broad. All the above bodies of wator, in ta which are discharged a great number ot streams, find an outlet by the river and Lake St. Clair, and Detroit River or Strait, in all about 90 miles long, with a fall of U feet into LrJre Erie, the fourth great lake of this immense chain. This latter lake again, at an elevation above the sea^ of 564 feet, 250 miles long, 60 miles broad, and 204 feet at its greatest depcb, but, on an average, considerably less than 100 feet deep, di'S'charges its surplus waters by the Niagara River and Falls into lake Ontario, 330 feet below ; 51 feet of this descent being iii tlie «*apids immediately above the Falls, 160 feet at the Falls thOiiJSfcl -^es, and the rest chiefly in the rapids between the Falls aitd the mouth of the river, 35 miles below Lake Erie. iMke Ontario, the fifth and last of the Great Lakes of Amer- ica, is elevated 234 feet above tide- water at Three Rivers on the St. Lawrence; it is 180 milos long, 60 miles broad, 600 feet deep. Thus basin succetKls basin, like the looks of a great cana * the Gulf »f .3t large cla&« enabling a the level oi pcrior has ] ficial extent Ontario ha that of La] Lake Erie, shores. La tion, and L{ perature in ature of air bottom 63°. scientific tri Bay and No turesque ish of the Uppc >unmier and The altitu Upper Lake level of the the water-sl of the St. Lj level of the Jfew York. The divide from those fl some places Michigan an when under ^d, discha River, and t low is the di^ MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES. 181 e sea, is 420 [t discharges es long, into ailes long, 82 I its surplus 1 length, into ^e Michigan, e sea, is 260 in and of the oad. All the great number Bt. Clair, and long, with a Lmense chain, ea^ of 564 feet, ,t its greatest 100 feet deep, ver and Falls descent being Bt at the Falls ireen the Falls Erie. lakes of Amer- B Rivers on the I >road, 600 feet ks of a great cana * tbe whole length of waters from Lake Superior to the Gulf »f 3t. Lawrence being rendered nayigable for vessels of a large cla&9 by means of the Welland and other canals— thus enabling a loaded vessel to ascend or descend 600 feet above the level of the ocean, or tide- water. Of these lakes. Lake Su pcrior has by far the largest area, being nearly equal in supei ficial extent to Lakes Huron and Michigan together, and Lake Ontario has the least, having a surface only about one fifth of that of Lake Superior, and being somewhat less in area than Lake Erie, although not much less, if any, in the circuit of itj^ shores. Lake Ontario is the safest body of water for naviga- tion, and Lake Erie the most dangerous. The ascertained tern perature in the midde of Lake Erie, August, 1845, was temper ature of air 76° Fahrenheit, at noon — ^water at surface 73° — at bottom 53°. The lakes of greatest interest to the tourist or scientific traveler are Ontario, Huron, together with Georgian Bay and North Channel, and Lake Superior. The many pic- turesque islands and headlands, together with the pure waters of the Upper Lakes, form a most lovely contrast during the summer and autumn months. The altitude of the land which forms the water-shed of the Upper Lakes does not exceed from 600 to 2,500 feet above the level of the ocean, while the altitude of the land which forms the water-shed of Lake Champlain and the lower tributaries of the St. Lawrence River rises from 4,000 to 5,00C above the IcTel of the sea or tide -water, in the States of Vermont and New York. The divide which separates the waters of the Gulf of Mexico, from those flowing northeast into the St, Lawrence, do not in some places exceed ten or twenty feet above the le vol of Lakes Michigan and Superior; in fact, it is said that Lake Michigan, when under the influence of high water and a strong northerly wind, discharges some of its surplus waters into the Illinois RiTer, and thence into the Mississippi and Gulf of Mexico — so low is the divide at its southern terminus. 16 iTt::!- ,x pvi i- "if — ,- m 183 MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKKd. 'ijii' COAST LINE OF THE GREAT LAKES AND SHORES OF THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER, ETC. AMERICAN ilDE. State*, etc. Coast Line. Boundaries. Minnesota,L. Superior y 160 ms. Pigeon River to mouth St. Louis River. Wisconsin, Michigan, « (( 120 " 430 " " St. Mary's River 60 " " Huron and Strait 100 " L. Michigan^ 60 " (( Wisconsin, " Illinois, " 200 " 60 " Indiana, C( 40 (( Michigan, " ... 300 ♦* '* Strait of Mackinac 60 «* i^ u 1.8 1.25 ||.4 1.6 t 6" '■ >■ V] <^ /a ^l s: %^' V /A Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ■^ K* ^\^\ '<^ '% 'o I/. z ;t?« ^ ■ S 186 LIST OF STEAMERS. t 4i ' ) . ■ !■■ pre «' -^i:;' U'l "f. Name. Tdiis. lS;5t5.. Little Erie 149. " ..Barcelona (British). 102. ♦' ..United (British)... 40. " ..St. Clair 250. " ..Cincinnati 116. 1837.. Illinois (Ist) 755. " ..Rochester 472. " ..Maf1i.son 630. " ..Cleveland 580. " ..Wisconsin 700. *' ..Erie 497. " ..Constellation 483. " ..Bunker Hill ^457. " ..Constitution 443. " ..New England 416. " ..Milwaukee 400. " ..Anthony Wayne... 890. " ..Macomb 100. " ..Rhode Island 164. " ..Star 128. " ..Goderlch (British). 200. ** . . Commerce 80 . " ..Mason 88. 1838 .Great Western 780. " ..Buffalo 618. " . . Chesapeake 412 . " ..Vermilion 885. " ..Lexington 868. " ..Fairport 259. " ..Red Jacket 148. *' . . Gen. Vance 75 . " ..James Allen 258. " ..Washington (2d)... 880. " ..G. W. Dale, 162. " . . C. C. Trowbridge . . 52 . " ..Marshall 51. " ..Wabash 84 " ..Owashenonk 45. " ..Patronage '... 66. 1889.. Gen. Scott 240. " ..Chautauqua 200. " ..Brothers (British).. 150. " ..Kent (British) 180. " ..Huron 140. " ..Harrison (Ist) 68. 1840.. Detroit (2d) 850. " ..Missouri 612. " ..Waterloo 100. " ..Harrison (2d) 862. 1841.. Indiana 484. 1842 . . Benj. Franklin 231 . " ..John Owen 230. 1848. .Nile 600. " ..Union 64. " ..Champion 270. 1844 . . Emerald (British) . . 250 . " ..Empire 1,186. " ..Tecumseh.. 269. " ..J. Wolcott 80. Wlie e biiJU. Remark4. .Detroit, Mich.— lost in 1842. .Dunnvllle, C. W. — changed to schooner. .Detroit, Mich.— blown up. .Sandusky, O. Sandusky, 0. — changed to schooner. .Detroit, Mich.— broken up. Richmond— changed to sail vessel. .Erie, Penn.— broken up. .Huron, Mich. — burnt In 1854. .Conneaut, 0. — broken up. .Erie, Penn.— burnt Aug., 1841. . Charleston— broken up. . Charleston— broken up. . Conneaut, 0.— broken up. .Black Rock, N. Y.— broken up. . Grand Island -wrecked 1842. . Perrysburg, O. — blown up 1850. .Mt. Clemens, Mich. — tow boat. Sandusky, O.— wrecked. .Belvidere, Mich.— broken up. . Sandusky, O. . Grand Rapids, Mich. .Huron, Mich.— broken up. Buffalo, N. Y.— changed to sail vessel. .Maumee, O.— sunk 1846. .Vermilion, 0.— burnt 1842. .Charleston, 0.— broken up. .Fairport, 0.— name changed. .Grand Island, N. Y. . Perrysburg, O. .Chicago, 111. .Ashtabula, O.— burnt 1838. Chicago, 111. . Kalamazoo, Mich. . Perrysburg, 0. • .Grand Faven. Mich .Bt. Joseph, Mich. .Huron, Mich.— sunk 1847. .Buffalo, N. Y. .Chatham, 0. W.— broken up. .Chatham, 0. W. .Newport, Mich. — broken up. .Erie, Penn. — broken up. .Newport, Mich.— sunk in Lake Huron. .Vermilion— broken up. . Black Rock, N. Y.— broken up. .Maumee, 0.— broken up. .Toledo, O.— burnt 1848. . Algonac, Mich. — wrecked. . Detroit, Mich.— tow boat .Detroit, Mich.— wrecked 1849. .BlackRock, N. Y. . Newport, Mich.— broken up. . Chippewa, 0. W. .Cleveland, O.— running on Lake Erie. .(Old Fairport)— wrecked in 1860. .Maumee, 0.— burnt in 1861. Bur.t. N 1844.. Indian " ..New C « ..St. Loi » ..U. 8. fi " .. " A 1845..Niagat " . . Boston " ..Oregoi " ..Troy " ..Superl " ..Lexlng " ..Astor " ..Enterp " ..Londoi " ..Helen " ..Romeo 1846..All)anj " ..Hendri " ..Loulsu " ..Saratoi " ..Canadi 1S4T.. Baltic. " ..Sultani " ..A.D.I " ..Baltim " ..Dlamoi " .. Pacific " ..Ohio (2 " ..Samue " ..Southe 1848.. Arrow, *' ..Alaban " ..Frankl " ..J. D. ^ " ..Empln " ..Queen " ..Globe. " ..Colum " ..Charte " ..John I lS49..Atlanti " ..May F " . Keysto " ..Telegn 1850.. Dart.. " ..Dover " ..Ocean " ..MayQ 1351. Arctic " ..BayCi ..Buckej ..Northe ..Peart. ..Plough ..Mazep ..Queen ..Minnee ..Caspia ..lAdy I i( « <( u u u u LIST OF STEAMERS. 187 ' Bul'.t. 1844. to schooner. ti u u chooner. a 1945. vessel. u i( L i( u 41. t( i( u u up. i« 2. it 850. 1S46. )at. kk (( P- 4* U 1547. t( i( sail vessel. (( U u u d. (i u 1848. »k u i( u u u (4 44 44 m9. 44 p. 44 ). 4( 1850. ake Haron. 44 44 44 up. 1551 ! 44 44 44 49. 44 1 " ). 1 < Lake Erie. 1 :: 1850. 1 <. Mitme. Tins. .Indian Queen 112. .New Orleans 610. .St. Louis 618. .U.S. St. Michigan. 588. . " Al)ert. 183. .Niagara (2d) 1,084. .Boston 7T5. .Oregon 781. .Troy 547. .Superior (2d) 567. .Lexington 863. .Astor 200. .Enterprise 100. . Loudon (British) ... 456 . .Helen Strong 2.53. .Romeo 180. .Albany 669. . Hendrick Hudson. . 750. .Louisiana.. 900. .Saratoga 800. .Canada (British)... 800. .Baltic 825. .Sultana 800. .A. D.Patchin 870. .Baltimore 500. .Diamond 886. .Paciflc 500. Ohio (2d) 600. .Samuel Ward 450. .Southerner 500. .Arrow 850 .Alabama 600. . Franklin Moore. . . . 800 . .J.D.Morton 400. .Empire State 1,700. .Queen City 1,000. .Globe 1.200. .Columbia 167. .Charter 850. .John HoUister 800. .Atlantic 1,100. .May Flower 1,800. Keystone State — 1,500. .Telegraph 181. .Dart 297. .Dover (British).... 81. .Ocean 900. .May Queen 688. Arctic 867. .Bay City 479. .Buckeye State 1,274. . Northerner 514 .Peart 251. . Ploughboy (British) 450 . .Mazeppa (British) . 250. . Queen ( British) 64 .Minnesota 749. Caspian 1,050. .lAdy Elgin 1,037. Where built. ReniAiks. Buffalo, N. Y.— wrecked in 1846. .Detroit, Mich. — wrecked 1849. .Perrysburg, O.— wrecked in 1852. .Erie, Penn. — in commission. .Buffalo, N. Y.— in commission. .BufTalo, N. Y.— burnt Sept., 1856. Detroit, Mich.— wrecked 1846. .Newport, Mich. — burnt 1849. .Maumee, O. — laid up. .Perrysburg, O.— wrecked Oct., 1856. . Black River, O. . Green Bay, Wis. — wrecked. .Green Bay, Wis. .Chippewa, C.W.— changed to sail vessel. .Monroe, Mich. — wrecked in 1846. .Detroit, Mich. — tow boat. . Detroit, Mich. — wrecked in 1854 . Black River, O. — runs on Lake Erie. .Buffalo, N. Y. — nms on Upper Lakes. .Cleveland, O. — wrecked in 1854. . Chippewa, C. W. — changed to barque. . Buffalo, N. Y.— changed to propeller. .Trenton, Mich. — runs on Upper Lakes. .Trenton, Mich. — wrecked in 18.50. .Monroe, Mich. — wrecked in 1835. . Buffalo, N. Y. — tow boat. . Newport, Mich. — changed to sail vessel. .Cleveland, O. — tow boat. .Newport, Mich, —uns on Lake Huron. Trenton, Mich.— wrecked in 1853. . Cleveland, O. — runs on Lake Erie. Detroit, Mich.— sunk in 1854. .Newport, Mich. — tow boat. .Toledo, O.— tow boat. .St. Clair, Mich.- laid up. .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Upper Lakes. .Detroit, Mich.- changed to propeller. . Fairport, O. .Detroit, Mich.— changed to propeller. .Perrysburg, O.— burnt on Lake Erie. .Newport, Mich.— sunk in Lake Erie 185S. .Detroit, Mich.— wrecked in 1854. .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Upper Lakes. .Truargo, Mich.— runs on Lake Erie. .Trenton, Mich.- runs on Lake Erie. .Port Dover, C. W. Newport, Mich.— runs on Lake Erie. runs on Luke Erie. .Newport,Mlch.— runs on Lake Michigan. .Trenton. Mich.— runs on Lake Erie. Cleveland, O.— runs on Upper Lakes. .Cleveland, O.— sunk in 1856. .Newport, Mich.— runs on Lake St. Clair. .Chatham, C. W.— runs on Lake Huron. runs on Lake Huron. .Dunnville, C.W.-runs on Lake St Clair .Maumee, O. .Newport, Mich.— wrecked in 1852. .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Upper Lake' M i^' ..'.-ti 1 <• ■^ »i Mf t^ w^w 188 LIST OF STEAMERS. ■:i ' I^H ; niiiit, 1852. (( t( (( u 1853." (( (( (1 (( (( i( (( (( •( u (( 1854.' ti u u it u 1855.* 1856'. 44 u a 1857." Name. Tons. Wliere built, RemarkH. .Cleveland 574. .Newport, Mich.— runs on Upper Lakea . Golden Gate 771 . . Buffalo, N. Y.— wrecked in 1856. . Huron 848 . . Newport, Mich. .Traveller 603. Newport, Mich.— runs on Upper Lakes. .Michigan (2d) — . .Detroit, Mich.— runs on Upper Lakes. . Crescent City 1,740. .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie. .Queen of the West. 1,851. Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie. , Mi.s9l9sippi 1,829. .Buffalo, N. Y. — runs on Lake Erie. , St. Lawrence 1,844. .Buffalo, N. Y.—laid up. • E. K. Collins 950. .Newport, Mich.— burnt Oct., 18.54. . Ariel 165 . . Sandusky, 0.— runs on Lake Erie. .Garden City —. .Buffalo, N. Y.— wrecked May, lb54. .Canadian (British). 889. .Chatham, C. W. — runs on Georgian Bay. . Collingwood (Br.). . — runs on Georgian Bay .T. Whitney 288 . . Saginaw, Mich. .Northern Indiana .1,470. .Buffalo, N. Y.— burnt Aug., 1850. .Southern Michigan.1,470.. Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie. . Forrester 504. . Newport, Mich. — runs on Lake Huron. Plymouth Rock 1,991 . .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie. .Western World. . . .2,000. .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie. .North Star 1,106. .Cleveland, O.— runs on Upper Lakes. . Illinois 926. .Detroit, Mich.— runs on Upper Lakes. . R. R. Elliott 821 . .Newport, Mich. — tow boat. .Clifton (British).... 247. Chippewa, C.W.—lake and river St. Clair. . Forest Queen 462 . . N ewport, Mich.— runs on Lake Huron. . Planet 1,154. . Newport, Mich.— runs on Upper Lakes. . Island Queen 173 . . Kelley's Island— runs on Lake Erie. .Amity (British) .... 217. . Chatham, 0. W. . Magnet 256 . . fiagioaw, Mich. — runs on Lake Huron . Western Metropolis 1,860 . . Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie. .Uncle Ben 155. .Buffalo N. Y.— tow boat. . City of Buffalo 2,200. .Buffalo^ JN. Y.— runs on Lake Erie. Note. — Besides the above list, there are a few small steamers of which nothing is known other than their names, among these are the Penetanguishene, Cynthia, Pontiac, Phenomenon, etc. The Steamer Caroline, whose destruction filled so large a portion of public notice, was originally known as the Carolina, and is believed to have been built in New York, at an early date, then sent to Charleston, S. C, where she ran for several years. Before passing into Lake Erie she ran a couple of seasons on the Hudson River, between Albany and Troy, when her guards were shipped so as to adxrAt her through the Erie and Oswego Canals. She was re-built at Ogdensburgh, N. Y., in 1834, and passed through the Welland Canal into Lake Erie. The date of her destruction by the British at Schlosser, near Niagara Falls, was Dec. 29, 1837, when five lives were supposed to be lost. " This Eastern cab'lity ceaed thi without exceed fif the feasib that it wi why not, round figi if the coE shipping i pass tliro time of a canal, be, making it the accoB revenue." The Toh " The hi the propos be a doubt organizf d mense imp it not be i and keep which may There shoi citizens to Under our for the por a similar o for the ext the stock V which she that the ca be no doub "A rout deep cuttin through Oh PROPOSED SHIP CANAL. 189 CTpper Lakea 11856. Jpper Lakes, pper Lakes, ike Erie, ike Erie, ike Erie. It., 1854. ke Erie, klay, 1S54. Georgian Bay. (Georgian Bay f., 185G. like Erie. Lake Huron, ake Erie, ake Erie, jper Lakes, pper Lakes. L I river St. Clair. Lake Huron. Upper Lakes. Lake Erie. Lake Huron ake Erie. ake Erie. lall steamers among these menon, etc. id so large a le Carolina, at an early 1 for several a couple of i Troy, when igh the Erie )urgh, N. Y., ;o Lake Erie. hlosser, near ere supposed LAKE ERIE AND MICHIGAN SHIP CANAL. Frwn the Buffalo (AT. Y.) Commercial, March, 185T. " This project is attracting the attention of Western and Eastern papers. No doubt is expressed as to the practi- cab'lity of the construction of the Canal. In fa«t, it is con- ceaed that one can be built across the base of the peninsula without deep cutting, and the probability is that it would not exceed fifty feet at any particular point. But while they grant the feasibility of the plan, they occasionally express the opinion that it will be a long time before it will be built, if ever. Now, why not, pray ? Because, we suppose, it would cost a pretty round figure to build it. Is this an insurmountable objection, if the construction of the work be entirely feasible ? if all the shipping to and from Lake Michigan, present and to come, will pass through it .' if the margin in the original cost and the time of a trip, via the straits and Lake Huron, and via the canal, be, as it would be, largely in favor of the latter, thus making it capable of producing a good per centage of tolls .'— the accomplishment of which would yield a remunerative revenue." The Toledo (Ohio) Commercial has the following : " The harbor of Toledo affords the only suitable terminus for the proposed Ship Canal on Lake Erie, and there can scarcely be a doubt that i*^ ^ill be adopted by any company which may be organizfd for constructing the work. But in view of the im- mense importance of the canal to the inter esta of Toledo, would it not be well for our board of trade to look into the matter, and keep an eye open for any possible speculative movement which may be set on foot to select some other starting point ? There should, indeed, be enterprise enough among our own citizens* to take Ht/i initiative in this most important project. Under our general law, a company might be organized here for the portion of the line lying within the State of Ohio ; and a similar organization could very readily be effected in Indiana, for the extension through that State. A large local interest in the stock would effectually secure to. Toledo the advantages to which she is entitled by natural position ; supposing, always, that the canal is to be opened — of which there really ought to be no doubt. " A route for the canal, eminently practicable, and without deep cutting or heavy lockage, can be found, we are confident, through Ohio and Indiana." 17 t »t \\ .■^j !• iv ^^4 n-^ 190 PROPOSED SHIP CANAL. %.,-. The following is from the Monroe (Mich.) Commercial : *• For many years past the public attention has, at times, been directed to the importance of a ship canal from I\Ionroe, on Lake Erie, to the waters of Lake Michigan. The project is perfectly feasible, but railroad enterprises have of late been so numerous, as to divert public attention from the benefits and objects of such a canal. The absolute necessities of commerce, however, are such as to bring the subject forcibly and favor- ably before the community, and the great commercial interests of certain locations are intimately connected with the comply, tion of such a work. For instance, the project now on fcjt iu Canada West, and portions of New York, of which Oswego is the commercial center, for constructing a ship canal, to connect Lakes Ontario and Huron, if carried forward to completion, would be a more fatal blow to the prosperity of Buffalo than any great work of improvement that could be made on the American continent. The immense trade l^etween the great agricultural States in the West, and the Atlantic States in the East, now tributary to Buffalo, would seek the new route, and make Oswego, at the expense, and to the destruction of Buffalo, tlie great commercial metropolis of the lakes. The citizens of W^estern New York see this, and the necessity of availing them- selves of a rival, and more ready and feasible route for a ship canal, to retain the ascendency they already possess, and se- cure forever, and beyond doubt, the trade, business, and profits of the business of the great West. " A ship canal from Monroe to the navigable waters of Lake Michigan will accomplish this. The canal would be easily made, and would always be abundantly supplied with water from the lake, in the county of Hillsdale, which is now the source of four of the principal rivers of this State. The canal would make a direct line, and of course the shortest one that could be made, between Chicago and Buffalo and the Atlantic cities, and be certain of securing the transportation of the grain and provision trade of the West, and all the heavy freight business that now moves tediously by the protracted route of the lakes. The distance would be shortened more than half, or yome five to six hundred miles, and that the expenses now incurred for insurance on produce, vessels, and goods, by the lakes, and the loss of property on Lakes Huron and Michigan, would pay the construction of the canal in a very few years. '* Why, then, should this great and important work be longer delayed ? A discerning public can see its absolute necessity, and security and permanency of great commercial interests T|rge its construction, by every consideration of self-preserva- tion and future greatness. " We do say that Monroe and Michigan are also dowlv iji- terosted encouraj and let , object ca Michigii work. I etninentl coinr re grjatost DIREC " An f Liverpool ■whose de] simple ai in comrac ing signi with the prehend i ment mu the Westi Mediterr Aloxandi New Woi nenfc to : wedge, pensive i vVestern volving £ importan phorus, t in throu^ and the complica monumei roads an the inter Lake Mi Sheba, o in the cl tody car shipm^n ercial : is, at times, rom ^Monroe, 'he project is late been so benefits and )f commerce, y and fiivor- cial interests the compl«- ow on fcot iu 3swego is the , to connect completion, BulFalo than uade on the sn the great States in the w route, and )n of Buffalo, tie citizens of mailing them- ite for a ship isess, and se- 38, and profits aters of Lake aid be easily i with water ti is now the J. The canal rtest one that [ the Atluntic tation of the heavy freight cted route of re than half, expenses now goods, by the nd Michigan, few years, rork be longer lute necessity, cial interests solf-preserva- Iso f]fier>lv in- ..E AND OCKAN NAVIGATION. 191 tercsted in this great ship canal, and that they can do much to encourage its construction at an early day. Buffalo is moving, and let M jnroe and Southern Michigan second the move. The object can not fail to enlist the hearty co-operation of Southern Miohig in. and we call upon our citizens to wake up vo the great work. It is not only a feasible improvement, but will prove an eaiinently suooessful one, and will work a revolution in the conu rce of the Northwest that will make Monroe one of the grjatost cities of the lakes." DIRECT TRANSPORTATION FROM LAKE SUPERIOR TO LIVERPOOL. From tJie St. Paul (Minnesota) Advertiser. (( An article from the European Times recites the arrival at Liverpool, direct from Chicago, of the schr ' D ;an Kichmonp,' whose departure we announced some three months ago. In this simple announcement is contained the initial fact of a new era in commercial history, and issues of startling and overwhelm- ing significance c^owd upon the calmest view of its relations Avith the future West. It seems to us — we know not if we ap- prehend its bearings correctly — that the results of this expari- ment must be an eventual revolution of the internal traffic of the Western States. It virtually makes our inland lakes the Mediterranean Sea of North America, and Chicago becomes the Alexandria of modern times. It peels off the littoral rind of the New World at a stroke —and splits the ripe apple of the conti- nent to its core. Ocean commerce will follow that entering wedge. Direct transportation will inevitably supersede the ex- pensive and complicated machinery employed in conveying \Vestern grain through its present channels — which, besides in- volving several expensive trans shipments, is attended with an important diminution of bulk. The Atlantic, tne far Bos- phorus, the Baltic, and the seas of the old hemisphere, will flow in through the rent torn by the keel of the * Dean Richmond,' and the majestic commerce of the ocean overleaping the huge complications of human ingenuity — passing in triumph past the monuments of Clinton's genius, past canals and railroads, rail- roads and canals — through rivers and lakes, 2,000 miles into the interior — will plant its sea-worn flags upon the shores of Lake Michigan, and sit in royal state like another queen of Sheba, on the throne that Western industry shall build for her in the chief city of the interior plain of North America. No- tody can doubt that the demonstrated practicability of direct shipment from Chicago to Europe will eventually transfer the 13.' u * \ •A H >* . (,i 3 '■ , i1 I' I ' 1 I ^11 II .[* t * i 192 LAKE AND OCEAN NAVIGATION. business of transportation to this channel. An inevitable oon- sequence of this will be the cnlorgement of the Weliand Ship Canal,* the ring-bolt in the chain of communication from the ocean to the lakes. a capacity sufficient for a ship of any re- quired size. The application of steam wUl overcome the delays of navigation, and the path opened by the * Dean Richmond' will be thronged with the Hags of every nation. But this is not all. What is true of Lake Michigan is true of Lake Superior. What is possible by the Weliand Canal is equally possible with the Saut Ste Marie. The splendid chain of inland navigation does not end with Chicago. It is complete to the extreme west- ern end of Lake Superior. Here, at the uttermost limit of ship- navigation, ihe town of Superior, some two years old, and containing not more than 1,000 inhabitants, is slowly rising on the shores of tne que3n lake, from the somber woods that sur- round it, to meet the majestic destiny that is creeping with slow pace up the St. Lawrence and through the lakes toward her, to cpst the commerce of the ocean at her feet, and crown her with a diadem of ocean pearls. Nor is this all. The ocean highway, extending from the mouth of the St. Lawrence to the extremity of Lake Superior, will be the basis of the whole sys- tem of Western railroads. A JVorthcrn Pacific Railroad » with a terminus at Superior, is the necessary supplement of the navigable highway we have described. The arguments in its favor are irresistible, unanswerable. It is a logical deduction from the whole law of railroads. The paramount purpose of the Pacific Railroad, we take to be, to facilitate the commercial intercourse between, the Atlantic and Pacific coasts, in other words, to facilitate transportation. Now transportation is im- pelled by an irresistible impulse in the cheapest routa. Hence gravitation itself is scarcely more a law than the tendency of railroads to the nearest water-course iu the direction of their destination. They break off at once by a sort of physical ne- cessity, as transporting agencies, at the nearest navigable water communication. One always ends where the other begins. The commercial apparatus of the country is full of instances per- tinent to this. By this long chain of inland lakes, covering nearly half of the distance between the Atlantic and Pacific coasts, nature seems to point with the force of a divine decree to a supplementary railroad route 'o the Pacific, to connect at its nearest span the ocean navigation of the opposite sides of the continent, and there can be no doubt that, other things being equal in feasibility of a route west of the Mississippi, the first road to the Pacific will abut on the shore of Lake Superior." ** Also the construction of a ship canal around tVe Falls of Niagara, on the American or New York side of the river. Extra on the su The fol noge of t nage for Distric Sackett's Oswego . Genesee . Niagara . Oswegatc! Buffalo C] Cape Vi.^( Presque I Cuyahoga Sandusky Miami . . . Detroit Mackinac Milwauke Chicago . • Tol " lucre; 1854, to J " Ratio less than TOTAL TO 1854 1855 " Ratio tonnage o per annul lake tonn nage of t ** The c and the < jvi table con. 'elland Ship on from the p of any re- le the delays I Richmond' it this is not ke Superior. X)S8ible with 1 navigation [treme west- ost limit of lars old, anil irly rising on ids that sur- eeping with akes toward i, and crown The ocean rence to the e whole sys- lilroad, with ment of the ments in its a.1 deduction purpose of commercial sts, in other tation is im- uta. Hence tendency of ion of their physical ne- igable water begins. The stances per- es, covering and Pacific ivine decree connect at 1 sides of the ihings being >pi, the first Superior." f Niagara, on THE COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. Extract from the Report of the Congressional Committee on the subject of the Commerce of the Lakes. The following (from the Cleveland Herald) is the total Ton- nage of the Lakes for 1854 and 1855, including the steam ton- nage for ohe same years : Districts. Tonnage. Steam Tonnuge. 1854. 1855. 18M. Sackett's Harbor 7,570 6,227 1,944 Oswego 24,865 42,460 5,199 Genesee 233 128 Niagara 868 468 128 Oswegatchie 3,74^ 4,485 3,042 Buffalo Creek 82,678 76,952 38,282 Cape Vi.^cent 4,860 6,609 1,143 Presquelsle 8,210 9,269 4,720 Cuyahoga. . . .'! 45,483 51,078 15,012. Sandusky 6,084 8,051 306- Miami 5,479 8,763 115 Detroit 52,363 65,058 32,180- Mackinac 4,393 4,431 2,897. Milwaukee 11,117 15,673 288 • Chicago 31,041 . 50,972 3,207 ■ Total tonnage 291,231 345,729 108,243" " Inc:*ei-se of lako tonnage (steam and sail) from June 30th, 18o4, to June 80th, 1855, a fraction over 18 8- per cent. " Ratio of steam to sail tonnage for 1855, a small fraction less than 1-3. TOTAL. TONNAGE OF THE UNITKD STATES FOR 1854 AND 1855. Eegistered. Enrolled. Total Tonnage. 1854 2,333,819 2,469,083 4,802,902 1855 2,535,136 2,676,864 5,212,000 " Ratio of increase of lake tonnage over the aggregate total tonnage of the United States, a fraction over 2 3-10 per cent. per annum more than double; or as 18 8-10 to 8-12 in favor of lake tonnage, which thus constitutes 1 1-15 of the entire ton" nage of the U. States. '• The clearances of vessels from ports in the U. S. to Canada, and the entries of vessels from Canada to ports in the U. S., - I '^'' % I f f ! . K .l^ 194 COMMKPCE OP THE LAKES. i '> M m \\ during the year 1855, show a greater amount of tonnage en- tered and cleared than between the U. States and any other for- eign country. ** From the U. S. to Canada there were 2,809 clearances of American vessels, and 0,638 of Canadian, making a total of 0,C07. The total tonnage was 1,793,619. The clearances from Canada to the U. S. for the same time were 2,454 American vessels and 4,194 Canadian, making a total of 6,048, with a total tonnage of 1,767,730, and a total tonnage back and forth of 3,501,249. "The value of lake tonnage for 1854, $10,185,000; at an overage of ^43 per ton, this would make the value of the in- creased tonnage for 1855 (viz., 845,000 tons) reach $14,835,000. *' The following table shows the value of the lake commerce for 1855, excluding the districts of Presque Isle and Mackinac, and not including the freight and passenger trade: Dlstrlctu. Tonnage Ent'd & Cleared. Val. of I'mp'ta. & Exp'ts. Cuyahoga 1,782,493 $102,185,040 333,028,000 69,906,000 94,107,000 233,878.000 140,000.000 36,000,000 145,235,000 Buffalo Creek 3,330,232 Sandusky Maumee 1,034,644 Chicago 2,632,000 Detroit 1,588,000 Milwaukee Oswego 1,607,000 Sackett's Harbor, ] Cape Vincent, Oswegatchie, Genesee, Niagara, 42,226,000 Exports and Imports ^ . $1,216,620,040 Total value of lake commerce, excluding Presque Isle and Mackinac $608,310,390 " This sum may seem incredible to those unacquainted with the immense carrying trade of these lakes. But the figures will show that the trade between the U. S. and Canada, car- ried on over the lakes, is in value next to that between France and the U. S. The amount of American goods sent to Canada is $9,950,764, and the amount of foreign goods, but passmg through American hands, is $8,769,280 ; while the amcv"t of goods sent from Canada to the States is $12,182,314, making a total trade between the two countries of $30,902,658.* ♦ These figures are very convincing of the fact that the interests of the Ganadas with the United States are one and identical - and the commer- cial, and social good \mderstanding happily ejcisting between the two «*The ac navigation merchandii; foreign cou ported fron "The di three, viz. shown to I area over > actcr of th the want ( refuge for « The fo connecting Lakes. Ontario. . . Erie Huron. . . . Michigan . St. Clair.. Str. Detroi St. Clair.. "Thus 1 Chicago, 1 lakes, will than 23 m *' But tl longer, an Lake Mich ron, 440 ; " A ver set forth i miles' dist over a su more than vessels by fear of wl posed. " No re countries le of Colonie^ distant mos COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. 195 tonnage en* y other for' earanccs of a total of ranees from American ,048, with a k and forth ,000 ; at an e of the in- ;14,835,0()0. te commerce [i Mackinac, e: p'la. A Exp'tfl. 162,185,040 333,023,000 69,900,000 94,107,000 233,878.000 140,000.000 86,000,000 145,235,000 42,226,000 ,216,020,040 1608,310,390 lainted vrith the figures lanada, car- w^een France t to Canada but passing 5 amcv"t of 4, maKing a 38.* nteresta of the I the commer* vreen the two " The actual value of property exposed to the perils of lake Dayieation in i* 'nsiderably greater tnan the total value of the mercnandise of evcrv description exported from the U. 8. to all foreign countries, added to the total value of merchandise im- portwl /rom all foreign countries into the United States. " The dangers to which our lake commerce is exposed are three, viz., shipwreck, collision, and stranding. These are shown to be in a great measure attributable to the narrow area over which this commerce is carried on, the stormy char- acter of the lakes, the exposed condition of the lake coasts, and the want of natural or artificial harbors of commerce or of refuge for the lake shipping. " The following are the dimensions of the lakes and their connecting rivers : Greatest breadth. Av. breadth. Areas. Lakes. Length. Ontario 180 Erie 240 Huron 270 Michigan . . 840 St. Clair... 20 1,050 Str. Detroit. 27 St. Clair.... 38 62 67 106 83 25 40 6,400 88 7,800 70 20,400 68 20,000 25 800 46f 58,900 1,115 total length. " Thus a vessel sailing from Cape Vincent, Lake Ontario, to Chicago, Lake Michigan, by keeping the center lines of the lakes, will sail 1,115 miles; and. yet will average not more than 23 miles from shore throughout the whole distance. '' But the coast line of the lakes on the American side is much longer, and excluding Green Bay and the northwest coast of Lake Michigan, is for Lake Ontario 200 miles; Erie, 350 ; Hu- ron, 440 ; Michigan, 850 ; or a total of 1 ,940 miles. " A very large proportion of the extensive commerce above set forth is conducted by sail and steam vessels, at but a few miles' distance from the American coasts of these lakes, and over a surface not exceeding an area of 7,000 square miles ; more than 1,400 miles of this coast constitutes to the numerous vessels by which this commerce is carried on, a lee shore^ to the fear of which vessels navigating those lakes are constantly ex- posed. " No reference has been made to the commerce and navigation countrieH leaves no room for hope on the part of the OHgarchal JfotKfir f>/ Colonie-y that Canada will remain long in servile subordination to a distant monarchy.— Ed. ^i' m i. ■ :- r t I ■ V Err,»., v*tl 100 COMMKKCE OF THE LAKES. of Lake Superior from the want of satisfactory data. In 1855, hDWOYor, the exports of iron and copper alone from Lake Supe- rior ports amounted to $2,700,000. ** The national importance of the lake commerce and nsiTi- gation is clearly set forth — first with reference to the population of the seven States bordering on these lakes, and conseqticntly interested in their navigation and commerce. Secondly, the position of those States relatively to the great valley of the Mississippi Kiver; and the extent and cost of their railroads and lands, designed to open and facilitate commercial inter- course between the Atlantic Ocean, the lakes, and navigable waters and tributaries of the Mississippi River. Thirdly, the position of these seven lake States relatively to the British pos- sessions and the valley of the St. Lawrence River, Fourthly, the importance of the commerce and navigation of the lakes as a nursery of seamen from which the navy of the United States may be supplied with the first class of seamen in the time of war, in which the tonnage of the lakes is compared with the tonnage engaged in the whale, cod, and mackerel fisheries. ** The white population of the United States, according to the census of 1850, was 19,553,038. There are seven States bounded in part with great lakes, with a population as follows : New York 8,048,325 Pennsylvania 2,258,160 Ohio 1,955,050 Michigan 395,071 Indiana 977,154 Illinois 846,034 Wisconsin 804.756 White population of the 7 lake States. . 9,784,550 24 other States. 9,768,488 (C (t (( cc Balance in favor of the lake States. . . 16,062 Showing that the white population of the seven lake States is greater by 16,062* than the total white population of the re- maming twenty* four States; and the difference has probably been still more increaied since 1850. ** The total value of foreign imports for 1865 in this region is $274,403,935. If the seamen engaged in the lake navigation or in the fisheries are proportionate in number to the tonnage engaged in each, then those engaged in the navigation of the lakes must very considerably exceed those engaged in the whale, cod, and mackerel fisheries. * The population of Minnesota (say 100,000) should be added to the above excess of white population. ««The want of kind of > gtrandinji limount o 1848... 1849.... 1850... 1851... 1852..: 1853.... 1854... loOO .... 1848... 1849... 1850... 1851... 1852... 1853... 1854... 1855... 1848.... 1849.... 1850.... 1851.... 1852.... 1853.... 1854.... 1855 .... Sail Propeller Steamboa Tota %. In ISoo, Lake Supe- e and nuvi- e population lonsequently jcondly, the alley of the >ir railroads jrcial inter- d navigable Thirdly, the British pos- Fourthly, the lakes as nited States the time of ed with the sheriea. rding to the n of the re- is probably this rc^on ) navigation he tonnage ation of the a the whale, added to the ** The amount of losses sustained by vessels and cargoes for want of suitable river and harbor improvements —number and kind of vessels sustaining losses on the lakes by ** shipwreck, stranding, and collision," from 1848 to 1855 inclusive, with the amount of damage sustained : 8TK AM BOATS. Shipwreck. Rtrandinjf. Collision. No. I^osfl. No. Loss. No. Loss. 1848 3 $25,000 \) $47,000 $ 1849 1 25,000 5 21,000 3 1,400 1850 5 98,000 8 13,400 8 28,8(X) 1851 2 27,000 6 30,700 9 0,0<)0 1852..'. 3 125,000 6 14,700 16 158,350 1853 3 120,000 7 61,000 11 31,050 1854 4 110,000 2 110,000 8 31,200 1855 4 378,000 11 11,350 12 36,600 25 914,000 52 305,150 67 286,000 PROPELLERS. 1848 $ 1 $12,000 1 $400 1849 1 5,000 1850 4 2,500 3 2,400 1851 2 55,000 6 32,800 10 40,400 1852 4 85,000 6 6,900 9 73,000 1853 1 42.000 7 28,000 4 39,000 1854 6 370,000 8 69,500 1855 7 351,000 11 9,950 19 657,760 19 903,000 35 99,050 64 667,800 SAIL VESSELS. 1848 23 $128,600 65 $73,020 3 $36,000 1849 10 66,900 30 42,900 10 17,000 1850 20 89,600 64 82,160 11 44,600 1851 84 132,700 86 83,950 22 60,700 1852 80 183,100 62 96,000 36 28,600 1853 27 176,400 62 84,000 16 23,700 1854 62 407,626 16 90,660 1855 40 418,300 109 184,650 62 121,800 Sail 236 1,691 ,626 479 646,770 164 414,250 Propellers... 19 903,000 35 99,050 64 661,800 Steamboats.. 25 914,500 62 305,160 67 286,000 Total . . .380 ^,409,126 666 1,061,170 285 1,868,060 17* ' 1 I !' *1 /I' I ,f >.* t: :: 1 t1 r 198 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. V l m ■ ' '^i TOTAL LOSS IN EIGHT TEARS. Numbei Damages. By Shipwrec}£ 880 $3,409,126 By Stranding 566 1,051,170 By ColUsion 285 1,368,050 Total 1,231 5,828,346 " Whole number of disasters to vessels and cargoes, or either of them, during these eight years, 2,117, of which 1,231 con« sist oi shipwreck, stranding, and coUieion, a little over 4-0 of the whole, while the damage from these causes during the sam«j period was nearly 5-7 of the whole, and amounted to $5,828,84(5 ; the total damage from disasters of all kinas being $8,852,649. " The amount of damages to the commerce of the lakes dur- ing 1854, from the difficulty of crossing the St. Clair Flats with loaded yesseln, was as follows : VESSELS ENGAGED IN 1854 IN TRADE TO THE UPPER LAKES. Steamboats 8 Tonnage, 6,880 Propellers 44 " 21,796 Sail Vessels (Barques) 32 *« 12,284 Brigs. 84 " 24,757 Schooners 198 «« 48,823 Total Tons 110,990 SAIL VESSELS. Paid towing and lighterage on Flats $16C,686 56 Time detained— days, 5,566 220,640 00 Damages by collision, paid for repairs 62,800 00 $452,146 56 Steam vessels paid for like damages 208,000 00 Total damage on St. Clair Flats (for the season) . .$660,146 50 ** We call especial attention to the last item. ** The amount of duties collected in the fifteen collection dis- tricts of the Great Lakes from 1837 to 1855 was $5,511,129 90, and tlio whole amount of appropriations that have been made to these lakes from the beginning of the government till now is $2,884,125, sho^Ting that the United States have received from the lake revenue $2,267,004 98 more than it has given back to it in any shape. This balance will cover the amount expended on the light-houses on the lakes, with repairs, attendance of keepers, and the cost of the ship canal around the St. Mary's Falls, and still leave $1,000,000 for the U. States Treasury." WESTW^ COMM *' In the to look to ization of " Includ mercial cf of populat the head o is north oi ductive pc know It m population their regul trial powe ter of popi Their tend required t'^ centers be expects it beyond it. that the ce nent on, tli gather th«i towns and pass Cleve! nearer the by them, ai l^reatly inc mfluence o distributing " If we 1 equal, the dustrial po than its pr nent for en are points advantages of industrij points we i there must by land. I Cleveland, , "But we ica, by mea of one to t proportion attention to of this is d the numbe community " It can s America be merce. ih fi mages. 09,126 151,170 168,050 ^28,340 js, or either 1,231 con. OTer 4-0 of ig the same l5,8--'8,34r); i8,852,049. ) lakes dur- r Flats with >ER LAKES. , 6,880 21 ,79r, 12,234 24,757 48,323 110,990 ll6C,686 56 220,640 00 62,800 00 1452,146 56 208,000 00 ^660,146 5G POPULATION, COMMERCE, ETC. 199 :> llecticn dis- 11,129 90, been mado t till now is ceived from ven back to it expended ;endance of I St. Mary's reasury." WESTWARD MOVEMENT OF THE CENTER OP POPULATION, COMMERCE, AND OF INDUSTRIAL POWER IN NORTH AMERICA. Extract from IlunVs Merchanfa Magazine. ♦' In the rapidly developlnr ^reatness of North America, it is interesting to look to the future, and sp* »late on the most probable points of central- ization of its commercial ana social power. " Including with our nation, as forming an important part of its com- mercial community, the Canadas, and contiguous Provinces, the center of population, white and black, is a little west of Pittsburgh, situated at the head of navigation on the Ohio River. The movement of this center Is north of west, about in the direction of Chicago. The center of pro- ductive power can not be ascertained with any degree of precision. We know It must be a considerable distance east, and north of the center of population. That center, too, is on its grand march westward. Both, in their regului progress, will reach Lake Michigan. The center of indus- trial power will touch Lake Eric, and possibly, but not probably, the cen- ter of population now move so far northward as to reach Lake Erie alsp. Their tendency will be to come together ; but a considerable time will be requ'red to bring them into near proximity. Will the movement of these centers be arrested before they reach Lake Michigan ? I think no one expects it to stop eastward of that lake ; few will claim that It will go far beyond it. Is it not, then, as certain as any thing in the future can be, that the central power of the continent will move to, and become perma- nent on, the border of the Great Lakes ? Around these pure waters will gather the densest population, and on their borders will grow up the best towns and cities. As the centers of population and wealth approach, and pass Cleveland, that city should swell to large size. Toledo will be still nearer the lines of their movement, and should be more favorably affected by them, as the aggregate power of the continent will, by that time, be greatly increased. As these lines move westward toward Chicago, the influence of their position will be divided between that city and Toledo, distributing benefits according to the degree of proximity. " If wo had no foreign commerce, and all other circumstances were equal, the greatest cities would grow up along the lino of the central In- dustrial power, in Its western progress, each new city becoming greater than its predecessor, by the amount of power accumulated on the conti- nent for concentration from point to point of Its prog:ress. But as there are points from one resting-place to another possessmg greatly superior advantages for commerce over all others, and near enough the center llnrt of industrial power to approjprlate the commerce which it offers, to these points we must look for our future great cities. To become chief of these, there must be united in them the best facilities for transport, by water and by land. It la too plain to need proof, that these positions ftre occupied by Cleveland, Toledo, and Chicago! " But we have a foreign commerce beyond the continent of North Amer- ica, by means of the Atlantic Ocean, bearing the proportion, we will allow, of one to twenty of the domestic commerce within the continent. Thin proportion will seem small to persons who have not dlreciod particular attention to the subject It is, nevertheless, within the truth. The proof of this is difficult, only because we can not get the figures that represent the numberless exchanges of equivalents among each other, In such a community as ours "It can scarcely admit of a doubt, that the domestic commerce of North America bears a proportion as large as twenty to one of its foreign com- merce, ilas internal commerce a tendency to concentrate in few points* I, if r «p 200 POPULATION, COMMERCE, ETC. like foreii^ commerce Is its tendency to concentrAtion ess than tliat of foreign commerce ? No difference in this respect can be perceived. Ail commerce develops that law of its nature to the extent of its means. For- eiga commerce concentrates chiefly at those ports where it meets the greatest internal commerce. The dom^^stic commerce being the great ody, draws to It the smaller body of foreign commerce. New York, by her canals, her railroads, and her superior position for coastwise naviga- tion, has drawn to herself most of our foreign commerce, because she has become the most convenient point for the concentration of our domestic trade. It is absurd to suppose she can always, or even for half a century, remain the best point for the concentration of domestic trade ; and aa the foreign commerce will every year bear a less and less proportion to the domestic commerce, it can hardly be doubted that before the end of one century from this time the great center of commerce of all kinds for North America will be on a lake harbor. Supposing the center of population (now west of Pittsburgh) shall average a yearly movement westward, for the next fifty years, of twenty miles, this would carry it < le thousand miles northwestward from Pittsburgh, and some five hundred or more miles beyond the central point of the natural resources of the country. It would pass Cleveland in five years, and Toledo in eleven years, reaching Chicago, or some point south of it, in less than twenty-flve years. Tlie geographical center of industrial power is probably now in northeastern Pennsylvania, having but recently left the city of New York, where it partially now for a time remains. This center will move at a somewhat slower rate than the center of population. Supposing its movement to be fifteen miles a year, it will reach Clevela.id in twenty years, Toledo in twenty-seven years, and Chicago in forty-five years. ********** " At the present rate of Increase, the United States and the Canadas, fifty years from this time, will contain over one hundred and twenty mil- lions of people. If we suppose it to be one hundred and five millions, and that these shall be distributed so that the Pacific States shall have ten mil- lions, and the Atlantic border twenty-five millions, there will be left for the great interior plain seventy millions. These seventy millions will have twenty times as much commercial intercourse with each other as with all the world besides. It is obvious, then, that there must be built up in their midst the great city of the continent ; and not only so, but that they will sustain several cities greater than those which can be sustained on the ocean border." than that of ceived. All leans. For- t meets the g the great ew York, by vise naviga- ause she has )ur domestic ilf a century, ; and as the ortion to the e end of one ids for North >f population tvestward, for le thousand ired or more country. It ars, reaching years. The northeastern ork, where it , a somewhat )vement to be irs, Toledo in * * the Canadas, id twenty mil- ) millions, and have ten mil- be left for the ons will have [ler as with all )e built up in but that they I sustained on f "1* '■'iir 4% RAILRO FAL< The mc of Niagar the Buffai in length. Falls, 22 the Great ton, the hi Araerics ton severa the St. La There is Steamboai Chippewa miles in h House, th miles; Qu thirty-fiv< A.S the view may River. niins of c 1814. It RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTES FROM BUF- FALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, TORONTO, ETC. The most usual mode of conveyance from Buffalo to the Falls of Niagara^ and thence to Lake Ontario, or into Canada, is by the Buffalo^ JViagara Falls and Lewiston Railroad., 28 miles in length. It runs through Tonawanda, 11 miles; Niagara Falls, 22 miles ; Suspension Bridge, 24 miles, connecting with the Great Western Railway of Canada, and terminates at Lewis- ton, the head of navigation on Niagara River, 28 miles. American and Canadian steamers of a large class leave Lewis- ton several times daily, for different ports on Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River. There is also another very desirable mode of conveyance, by Steamboat, descending the Niagara River, from Buffalo to Chippewa, C. W., thence by the Erie and Ontario Railroad^ 17 miles in length ; passing in full view of the Falls, to tho Clifton House, three miles below Chippewa; Suspension Bridge, five miles; Queenston, eleven miles, terminating at Niagara, C. W., thirty-five miles from Buffalo. A.S the Steamboat leaves Buffalo on the latter route, a fine' view may be obtained of Lake Erie and both shores of Niagara River. On the Canada side, the first object of interest are the ruins of old Fort Erie, captured by the Americans July 3d, 1814. It is situated at the foot of the lake, opposite the site of a n 'H ', K I I* I L J.IIISTT71ilCBLL.BtilSuhex aii^PeaXRrliLKAf9,OtrmBB m or nuEVUi *«' Inlfiuiiex ai} stoj ing to tf giviLg t[ Horse-Sl windoT»i In ad{ on the CI the Mus{ beautifu of a visi also mu( in this cursion. Drum on Lund} ary enga July 25, Thefol ment. *• army was ascending the imm( advanced British hi on the 5tl flict of tl attacked, about 3,0 by the mi pieces of c on the an came gen( on both si and resist assumed 1 having ui (America artillery ( bayonet h army, wai tested uni BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, ETC. 203 have reccnt- yof Bufifulo. and opposite is connected wrest side of I wide. The pt Erie, near 1 the Great to Stratford, on L. Huron. , is passed on md valuable f a superior passed, lying tainei great was occupied e troubles in the nisrht of bding, on the ig persons to ed. hippewa bat- d when mur- f some of the while in his es above the 3 mouth of a r Robinson, g on the line ains a popu- aft of a large Crie and the 1 account of var of 1812, battle was ort distance forces were British, by sanguinary At Chippewa commences the railroad extending to Niagara, ai the mouth of the river, a distance of 17 miles. Steamboats continue the line of travel from both ends of this road, thus fur- nishing an interesting ani speedy conveyance between Lakes Krie and Ontario. On arriving in the vicinity of the Falls or Niaoaba, the ca*'6 stop near the Clifton House^ situated near the ferry lead- ing to the American side. The site oi this house was chosen as giviLg the best view of both the American and Canadian or Horse-Shoe Falls, which are seen from the piazzas and front windoifvs. This is the most interesting approach to the Falls. In addition to ^,he Falls, there are other points of attraction on the Canada side of the river. The collection of curiosities at the Museum, and the Camera Obscura, which gives an exact and beautiful, though miniature image of the Falls, are well worthy of a visit. The .Jurning Spring, two miles above the Falls, is also much frequented; and the rides to the battle-grounds in this vicinity make an exhilarating and very pleasant ex- cursion. For further description of Falls, see pnge 211. Drummondsvillk, one mile west of the Falls, and situated on Lundy*s Lane, if! celebrated as the scene of another sanguin- ary engagement between the American and British forces, July 25, 1814. The following is a brief, though correct account of the engage- ment. " On the afternoon of the above day, while the American army was on their march from Fort George toward Fort Erie, ascending the west bank of the river, their rear guard, under the immediate command of Ocn. Scott, was attacked by the advanced guar*^ of the British army under Gen. Riall, the British having been reinforced after their defeat at Chippewa, on the 5th of the same month. This brought on a general con- flict of the most obstinate and deadly character. As soon as attacked. Gen. Scott advanced with his division, amounting to about 3,000 men, to the open ground facing the heights occupied by the main British array, where were planted several heavy pieces of cannoi . Between eight and nine o'clock in the evening, on the arrival of reinforcements to both armies, the battle be- came general and raged for several hours, with alternate "^ess on both sides ; each army evincing the most determined ; .jry and resistance. The command of the respective forces » now assumed by Maj. Gen. Brown and Lieut. Gen. Drummona, each having under his command a well-disciplined army. The brave (American) Col. Miller was ordered to advance and seize the artillery of the British, which he eflfected at tlie point of the bayonet in the most gallant manner. Gen. Riall, of the English army, was captured, and the possession of the battle-ground con- tested until near midnight, when 1,700 men being either killed i^^ Pi 'U 4 ' 204 BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, ETC. or Toiinded, the conflictinff armies, amonntiilg altoffethor to about 6,000 strong, ccasea the deadly conflict, and for a time the bloody field was left unoccupied, except by the dead and wounded. When the British discovered that the Americans had encamped one or two miles distant, they returned and occupied their former ^ *tion. Thus ended one of the most bloody con- flicts that occv \ during the last war ; and while each party boasted a victory , altogether too dearly bought, neither was dis- posed to renew the conflict." Clifton is a new and flourishing village, situated at the western termination of the Great Western Railway, where it connects with the Suspension Bridge. For description of route to Detroit, etc., see page 150. QuEENBTON, situatod seven miles below the Falls, and about the same distance above the entrance of Niagara River into Lake Ontario, lies directly opposite the village of Lewiston, with which it is connected by a suspension bridge 850 feet in length. It contains about 600 inhabitants, 60 dwelling-houses, one Episcopal, one Scotch Presbyterian, and one Baptist church, four taverns, four stores, and three warehouses. This place is also celebrated as being the scene of a deadly strife between the American and British forces, Oct. 13, 1812. The American troops actually engaged in the fight were commanded by Gen. Solomon Van Rensselaer, and both the troops and their commander greatly distinguished themselves for their bravery, although ultimately overpowered by superior numbers. In attempting to regain their own side of the river many of the Americana perished, the whole loss in killed, wounded, and prisoners amounting to at least 1 ,000 men. Major Gen. Brock, the British commander, was killed in the middle of the fight, while leading on his men. A new monument stands on the heights, near where he fell, erected to his memory. The first monument was nearly destroyed by gunpowder, April 17, 1840 ; an infamous act, said to have been perpetrated by a jierson concerned in the insurrection of 1837-38. Brock's new Monument was commenced in 1858, and finished in 1856 ; being 185 feet high, ascended on the inside by a spiral staircase of 235 stone steps. The base is 40 feet sqaare and 35 feet in height, surmounted by a tablet 85 feet high, with historical devices on the four sides. The main shaft, about 100 feet, is fluted and surmounted by a Corinthian capital, on which is placed a colossal figure of Major General Brock, 18 feet in height. This beautiful structure cost £10,000 sterling, being entirely constructed of a cream-colored stone quarried in th« MIAGAKA FALLS. 217 BAT£ OF CHABOES AT NIAGARA FALLS. The following are the rate of charges usually exacted from persons yisiting Niagara Falls — but, unfortunately, impositions are often practiced by anprincipled individuals, at this, as well 08 other fashionable resorts : AMERICAN SIDE. Board, from one to two and a half dollars per day. For serrices of guide, from one to three dollars. For guide behind the Central Fall, and visiting the Cave of the Winds, one dollar. For crossmg bridge to Goat Island, 25 cents. Fare to and from Suspension Bridge, 12^ cents. Fare for crossing Suspension Bridge, 25 cents. Fore to the Whirlpool, 50 cents. For use of steps or cars on Inclined Plane, 6 j cents. Ferriage to Canada side, 18| cents. Omnibus fare and steam ferriage to Canada side, 25 cents. CANADA BIDE. Board, from one- to two and a hal dollars per day. Visiting Bamett's Museum, Camera Obscura, and Pleasure Grounds, 25 cents. For guide and use of dress to pass behind the Fall at Table Rock, one dollar. ' * Carriage fare from ferry to Clifton House, 64 cents. Carriage fare to Whirlpool, Lundy's Lane Battle Ground, Burning Spring, and back to Ferry, 60 to 75 cents. Guide to Battle Ground and visiting Monument, 25 cents. Carriage fare to Brock's Monument on Queenston Heights, one dollar. Carriage fare per day, four dollars. The drives in the vicinity of the Falls, on both sides of the river, are unrivaled, and no visitor should lose the opportunity to visit all the objects of attraction above and below the mighty Cataract. * . 4^e '■ 'i 218 BUFFALO TO LRWI8T0V, ETC. iv Lbwiston, Niagara Co., N. Y., is delightfully sitnated on the east bank of the Niagara River, seTiii miles belnw the Falls, and seven miles above the mouth of the river where it falls into Lake Ontario. It is an incorporated village and contains about 1,000 inhabitants, four churches, an incorporated academy ; a custom-house, it being the port of entry for the district of Niagara; three hotels, nine stores, and three storehouses. Here is a very convenient steamboat landing, from which steamers depart daily for Oswego, Ogdensburgh, etc., on the American side, and for Toronto, Kingston, etc., on the Canadian side. The Buffalo, Niagara Falls and Lewiston Railroad ter- minates at this place, where is a magnificent Suspension Bridge thrown across the Niagara connecting Lewiston witli Queenston, Canada. The mountain ridge here rises about 800 feet above the river, forming many picturesque and romantic points of great interest. On the American side of the river stands the site of old Fort Gray, erected during the war of 1812, while on the Canadian side are situated QueenBton Heights, surmounted by a beautiful monument erected to the memory of Gen. Brock, of the British army, who was here killed in a sanguinary con- flict, October 13th, 1812. From this height a most extensive and grand view is obtained of Lake Ontario and the surround- ing country. YouNGSTOwN, six mllcs below Lewiston, and one mile above old Fort Niagara at the mouth of the river, is a regular steam- boat landing. The village contains about 800 inhabitants; three churches, two public houses, five stores, and two flouring- mills, besides other manufacturing establishments. A railroad is nearly completed, extending from this place to Niagara Falls, being a continuation of the Canandaigua and Niagara Falls Railroad, now completed to the Suspension Bridge A ferry plies from Youngstown to the village of Niagara on the Canada side of the river, here about half a mile in width. This is the first landing, on the American side of the river, after leaving the broad waters of Lake Ontario. iM\ I LAKE ONTARIO. 219 siinated on the i«lrtw the Palla, lere it falls into contains about ed academy; a the district of ee storehouses, g, from which ^h, eto., on the )n the Canadian n Railroad tcr- sponsion Bridge witli Queenston, t 800 feet above lantic points of river stands the f 1812, while on hts, surmounted V of Gen. Brock, sanguinary con- most extensiyc d the surround- one mile above regular steam- K) inhabitants; id two flouring- ts. A railroad ) Niagara Falls, Niagara Falls idge A ferry on the Canada Ith. This is the , after leaving LAKE ONTARIO. Tkib Lake, the most eastern of the great chain of Lakes of North America, receives the surplus waters of Niagara River ; it is 180 miles in length, and GO miles in extreme breadth; being about 485 miles in circumference. The boundary line between the Bntish Possessions and the United States runs through the middle of the lake, and so continues down the St. Lawrence to the 45 th degree of north latitude, where the river enters Canada. T)ie lake is navigable throughout its whole extent for vessels of the largest size ; and it is said to be in some places upward of 600 feet in depth. Its surface is elevated 234 feet above the Atlantic, and lies 830 feet lower than Lake Erie, with which it is connected by the Niagara River and by the Welland Canal in Canada. It has also been proposed to construct a ship canal on the American side. The trade of Lake Ontario, from the great extent of inhabited country surrounding it, is very con- siderable, and is rapidly increasing. Many sail vessels and gplendid steamers are employed in navigating its waters, which, owing to its great depth, never freezes, except at the sides, where the water is shallow ; so that its navigation is not so ef- fectually interrupted by ice as some of the other large lakes. The most important places on the Canadian or British side of Lake Ontario are Kingston, Coburg, Port Hope, Toronto, Ham- ilton, and Niagara; on the American shore, Cnpe Vincent, Sacket's Harbor, Oswego, Charlotte or Port Genesee, and Lew- iston on Niagara River. This lake is connected with the navi- gable waters of the Hudson lliver by means of the Oswego and Erie canals. It receives numerous streams, both from the Canadian and the American sides, and abounds with a great variety of fish of an excellent flavor. The bass and salmon, in particular, have a hich reputation, and are taken in large quantities. The piincipal Bays are Burlington, Irondequoit, Great and Little Sodus, Mexico, Black River, Chaumont, and the picturesque waters of the Bay of Quinte. ■X N^- 220 LAKE ONTARIO. I / The passage across Lake Ontario in calm weather is most agreeable. At times both shores are hidden from view, when nothing can be seen from the deck of the vessel but an abyss of waters. The refractions which sometimes take place in summer, are exceedingly beautiful, islands and trees appear turned upside down ; and the white surf of the beach, trans- lated aloft, seems like the smoke of artillery blazing away from a fort.* * Lkautifitl Mirage.— That grand phenomenon occasionally witnessed on the Lakes— mirage— was seen from the steamer Bay State, on a recent trip from Niagara to Genesee Kiver (August, 1S56), with more than or- dinary splendor. The Lockport Journal says it occurred Just as the sun was seUmg, at which time some twelve vessels were seen reflected on the horizon, in an inverted position, with a distinctness and vividness truly surprising. The atmosphere was overcast with a thick haze such as pre- cedes a storm, and of a color favorable to represent upon the darkened background, vividly, the full outlines of the rigging, sails, etc., as perfect A if the ships themselves were actually transformed to the aerial canvas. The unusual phenomenon lasted until darkness put an end to the scene. EOUIE AROUND LAKE ONTARIO. Miles. Kingston, C. W., to Toronto, via Grand Trunk Railway. 160 Toronto to Hamilton, C. W., Toronto and Hamilton R.R. 38 Hamilton *o Suspension Bridge, via Great Western R.R. . 43 Suspension Bridge to Rochester, N. Y., via JST. Y. Central Railway 76 Rochester to. Oswego, N. Y., by stage 70 Oswego to Richland, N. Y., «* 35 Richland to Cape Vincent, via Watertown and Rome R,R. 55 Cape Vincent to Kingston, C. W., via Wolfe Island 12 TotalMiles 489 Note. — The extreme length of Lake Eric is 180 miles, from Cape Vincent to Hamilton, C. W. ; being about four times as long as its greatest width. The circuit of the water is esti- nated at 460 miles. See Lake Erie^ pajs?e 163. STEAMBOAT ROUTES. 221 AMERICAN STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM LEWISTON TO OSWEGO, KINGSTON, AND OGDENSBURGH. Ports, etc. Miles. Lewiston Youngstown 6 JViagaraj Can 1-7 Charlotte, or Port Genesee 80-87 Pultneyville. -. 20-107 SodusPoint 10-117 Oswego 80^147 Stoney Point andlsland 83-180 Sackefs Harbor 12-192 Ports, etc. Miles. Ogdensburgh Morristown 11 Brockville, Can. 1-12 Thousand Islands. . . Alexandria Bay 22-34 Clayton, or French Creek 12-46 Grand, or Wolfe Island KixGSTON, Can 24-70 Sackefs Harbor 88-108 Grand, or Wolfe Island 28-220 Stoney Point and Island 12-120 Kingston, Can 10-230 Thousand Islands. . . Clayton, or IVench Creek 24-254 Alexandria Bay 12-266 Oswego 33-163 SodusPoint 30-183 Pultneyville , . . . 10-193 Charlotte, or Port Genesee 20-213 Brockville, Can 22-288 JSTiagara, Can 80-293 Morristown 1-289 Youngstown 1-294 Ogdbnsburgh 11-800 Lewiston 6-300 Usual Time from Lewiston to Ogdensburgh, via Oswego and Kingston, 28 hours. Usual Time, via Toronto and Cape Vincent, 22 hours. Cabin Fare, $5 50 (including meals). Deck Fare, $2 50. m. ■ P STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM LEWISTON TO TORONTO OGDENSBURGH, via EXPRESS LINE. Ports, etc. Miles. LlEWlSTON Niagara 7 Toronto, Can 42-49 Point Peter and Light 128-177 Buck Island 80-207 libbers Point and L. 19-226 AND Ports, etc. Miles. Ogdensburgh Brockville, Can, 11 Clayton, or French Creek 84-46 Cape Vincent. ... 18-68 Tibbet's Point 8-61. 19* 222 BTBAMBOAT ROUTES. it ' ifcf Forts, etc. Miles. Cape Vincent 3-229 Clayton, or French ' Creek 13-242 Broekville, Can 84-276 Ogdensburgh 1 1-297 Ports, etc. Miles. Duck Island 19-80 Point Peter and Light 80-110 Toronto 128-238 Niagara 42-280 Lewiston 7-287 Usual Fare, from Ogdensburgh to Montreal, $3 50 Through Fare, from Lewiston to Montreal, 9 00 from Buffalo to Montreal, 10 00 {( (( AMERICAN STEAMERS. OMTABIO AND ST. LAWRENCE STEAMBOAT COMPAKY'S OFFICE, OSWEGO, K. T. E. B. Allen, Pres., Ogdensburgh. Jas. Van Cleve, Sec. and Treas , Lewiston. Steamer Bay State, 1,098 tons. Capt. John Ledyard. New York, 1,200 Northerner, 905 Cataract, 577 Niagara, 473 Ontario, 832 C( (C « « « ft (( (( (( « R. B. Chapman. R. F. Child. Jas. R. Ester. John Morley. H. N. Throop. One of the above steamers leaves Lewiston daily for Charlotte, Oswego, Sacket's Harbor, Kingston, and Ogdensburgh, returning by the way of Cape Vincent, Toronto, etc., to Lewiston. A steamer of the same line also leaves Lewiston daily for Toronto, Cape Vincent, and Ogdensburgh, returning by the way of Sacket's Harbor, Oswego, Charlotte, etc., to Lewiston, con- necting with cars runn'ng to Niagara Falls, Buffalo, ete. ST. LAWRENCE RIVER STEAMERS, XUKIOKG IN CONNECTION WITH THE ABOVE BOATS, FORMING A THBOUOD LINE TO MONTBEAL. Steamer British- Queen, 300 tons Capt. A. Cameron. *' Jenny Lind, 300 " « L. Moody. " Montreal, 300 " " John Laflame. One of the above steamers leaves Ogdensburgh, daily, during the season of navigation, for Montreal, passing by daylight through the Rapids of the St. Lawrence, returning through the Canals. MileiL 19-80 d Light 80-110 128-238 42-280 7-287 *eal, $3 50 L, 9 00 10 00 FICE, OSWEOO, K. T. urgh. iston. John Ledyard. R. B. Chapman. R. F. Child. Jas. R. Ester. John Morley. H. N. Throop. lyfor Charlotte, >urgh, returning ■ewiston. w^iston daily for aing by the way Lewiston, con- ffalo, etc. JS, RMIira A THBOUOa b. A. Cameron. L. Moody. John Laflame. h, daily, during ng by daylight ling through the PJ eo &< TRIP FROM LEWISTON TO OSWEGO, KINGSTON, AND OGDE^SBURGH. ill I I P2 t to < c During the season of nayigation, steamers of a large class, belonging to the Ontario and St. Lawrence Steamboat Com- pany, leave Lewiston daily, following the south or American shore to the foot of Lake Ontario, and thence to Ogdensburgh, on the St. Lawrence River. On leaving the wharf at Lewiston, a most beautiful and ex- tensive view is afforded of Niagara River, the lower Suspension Bridge, Brock*8 Monument on Queenston Heights, and the vil- lages of Lewiston and Queenston, with the Mountain Ridge in the background. When are associated the stirring hist -jal eyents connected with this vicinity, no spot exceeds it in interest. The banks of the river are here elevated from 40 to 60 feet, with bold shores, while the water rushes onward into Lake Ontario, the receptacle of all the waters of the Upper Lakes. Fort Niagara, seven miles below Lewiston, lying on the American shore at the mouth of the Niagara River, is well worthy of a visit in connection with the ruins of Fort George, on the Canadian shore, near the village of Niagara. In 1679, M. De Salle, the explorer of the Mississippi, in the service of France, inclosed the spo^ on which the fort was here built in 1725, by palisades. In 1759 it was taken by the British, under Sir William Johnson, in whose hands it remained until 1796, when it was evacuated and given up to the United States. On the 19th of December, 1813, it was again taken by the British by surprise; and in March, 1815, again surrendered to the Americans. This old fort is as much noted for being the theater of tyranny and crime as for the scenes of military exploits. While in the hands of the French, there is no doubt of its hav- ing been at times used as a prison. In its close and impreg- nable dungeons, where light was not admitted, for many years ~f.^ ;4^ |^:,fW?;: I : III 226 LKWISTON TO OSWEOO AND OGDENSBURGH. there remained clear traces of the ready instruments for exe- cution or for murder. During the war of the Reyolution it was the head-quarters of all that was barbarous and unrelenting and cruel ; this being the chief rendezrous of a sayage horde that carried death and destruction into the remote American settlements. Of late years, the abduction of William Morgan, who was taken from the jail in Canandaigua and conveyed more than 100 miles through a populous country, and lodged in the magazine at Fort Niagara, where he was kept three or four days, and then inhumanly drowned — has justly tended to continue its reputation for being the scene of tyranny and murder. On passing out of the mouth of the Niagara River, and reach- ing the broad waters of Lake Ontario, a deeply interesting view is afforded of the town of Niagara and Fort Niagara, situated on opposite sides of the river, while in the distance may be seen Brock's Monument, rising nearly 500 feet above the waters of the lake, being eight or ten miles distant. The steamer now pursues an easterly course in running for Charlotte, or Port Genesee, 80 miles from the mouth of Niagara River. The shores of the lake of a clear day are generally in sight, presenting an elevated and bold appearance for many miles. Eighteen Mile Creek, Thirty Mile Creek, and Oak Orchard River p/x-e passed in succession ; at the mouth of each there are harbors and small settlements. BraddocK's Point is a bold headland ten miles west of the mouth of the Genesee River. Charlotte, or Port Geivesee, 80 miles from the mouth of Niagara River, and 60 miles west from Oswego, is situated at the mouth of Genesee River, seven miles by railroad below the city of Rochester, it being the outport for that place. It is a port of entry, possessing a safe harbor, being protected by two long government piers, on one of which is located a light ; there is also a light-house on the mainland. The village contains about 400 inhabitants, two churches, three hotels, four stores, .^fbur warehouses, one steam elevator, one steam saw-mill, and fSBUROH. LBWISTON TO OSWKOO AND 00DEN8BURGH. 227 truments for exe- ReTolutionitwas and imrelentiDg f a savage horde remote American William Morgan, ua and conveyed intry, and lodged vras kept three or i jtistly tended to of tyranny and River, and reach- y interesting view Niagara, situated kance may be seen )Ove the waters of iQ in running for mouth of Niagara are generally in arance for many Creek, and Oak ;he mouth of each 3raddock'8 Point th of the Genesee rom the mouth of go, is situated at ulroad below the hat place. It is protected by two ed a light; there village contains otels, four stores, am saw-mill, and an extensive brick-yard. American and British steamers run direct from Charlotte to Cobourg, Fort Hope, Toronto, etc., on the Canada side of the lake ; also to Oswego, Sacket's Harbor, etc., on the American side, all connecting at Charlotte with railroad cars for Rochester. The Falls of the Genesee, near Rochester, are well wor ay attention. The banks of the river immediately above Charlotte r'se from 50 to 150 feet in height, presenting a fine appearance. The river is navigable for five or six miles to the first fall at Carthage, within the city bounds of Rochester ; then other falls occur, the principal and most interesting being near the center of the city, it extending on both Hides of the stream. The water- power here afforded is very great, being used to a great extent in propelling flour-mills, saw-mills, etc Genesee River, a deeply interesting and romantic stream, rises in Potter Co., Pa., on the great table-land of Western Pennsylvania, interlocking with some of the head sources of the Alleghany and west branch of the Susquehanna River ; it then pursues a north course to the New York State line, thence through the county of Allegany ; then by many short turnings through the rich and fertile valley of the Genesee, which ex- tends through Monroe County, where it falls into Lake Ontario, six miles below the city of Rochester. Its whole course is about 145 miles. Near its mouth, within the present city limits of Rochester, are two or three important falls, known as the Genesee Falh ; within the distance of three miles there being an estimated descent of 226 feet ; the great falls at Rochester are 96 feet, at Carthage 75, an intermediate one of 20, and the rest, rapids or small falls; altogether affording an immense amount of hydraulic power, which is used to a great extent, particularly at the Upper Falls, in propelling flouring-mills, and different kinds of manufacturing establishments. From the landing at Carthage, which constitutes a part of the city of Bochester, there is a steamboat navigation to Charlotte, or Port Genesee, a distance of four miles, where is a good harbor oommunicating with Lake Ontario. From the head of the Ifll 228 LBWISTON TO OSWEGO AND 0GDEN8BUK0H. rapids above Rochester it is navigable during higb water for a considerable distance, passin<; through a rich and interesting region of country, celebrated for its fertility. This stream now constitutes the main feeder of the Genesee Valley Canal j which runs parallel to it for the greater part of its length through the State. There are also important falls on this river, both in Allegany and Livingston counties, where are to be found some of its most interesting features. In the town of Portage, Alle- gany Co., *' there are three distinct falls on the river, respec- tively 60, 90, and 110 feet, within the space of two miles, each differing in character, and each having peculiar beauties. Although the cascades are highly admirable, they are almost disregarded in the wonder and fear caused by the stupendous, perpendicular walls of the river, rising to 400 feet in height, and extending along the stream for three miles, with almost as much regularity as if constructed by art. To t:. is great depth the river has worn its bed in the solid rock, in turns as short and graceful as if winding through the softest meadow." After leaving Charlotte for Oswego the steamer passes Pult- neyville (occasionally stopping), Great Sodus Bay and Little Sodus Bay, running within sight of the south shore ; the lake here presenting an irregular coast-line. Great Sodus Bay is a fine sheet of water, affording a secure harbor for lake craft, being from ore to three miles wide and five miles long. The fishing is here good, as well as 4n all the bays along the south shore of the lake. Sonus Point, Wayne Co., N. Y., situated at the entrance of Great Sodus Bay, is a port of entry, with a good harbor, and contains a church, a public house, two stores, a steam saw-mill, and abont 300 inhabitants. LrrTLE Sodus Bay, 14 miles east of Great Sodus, is another important body of water. " A^ ^ittle Sodus, in high winds, vessels can often come within tL j protection of Long Point on one side, and the protecting shores west, between it and Big Sodus, and ride out the storm in the indented shore of the lake, and can, when the improvements to Little Sodus harbor are gh water for a kiid interesting lis stream now / Canal J which lengtli through I riyer, both in be found some Portage, Alle- 5 river, respec- bwo miles, each iliar beauties, hey are almost he stupendous, feet in height, with almost as '' IS great depth 1 turns as short leadow." er passes Pult- Bay and Little shore; the lake 3r, affording a to three miles ;ood, as well as I. ;he entrance of od harbor, and iteam saw-mill, >dus, is another in high winds, Long Point on een it and Big ore of the lake, iu8 harbor are Ml 1\ .=* ' i'. 13iiOCK'8 MoMUMSNi- — Queenston Heights. '\S BUFTALO TO NIAGARA FALLS, ITO. 205 Tioinity. A maasiTe stone mtd\, 80 feet square, adorned iHth military figures and trophies at the comers, 27 feet in height, surrounds the monument, learing space for a grabs-plot and walk on the inside of the inclosui*e. The following is the inscription : Upper Canada has dedto tains about 3,000 inhabitants; a court-house and jail; one* Episcopal, one Presbyterian, one Methodist, and one Romani Catholic church ; ten hotels and taverns, and twenty stores of different kinds; also, an extensive locomotive and car factory: This is the most noted place in Canada West for building steams- boats and other craft navigating Lake Ontario. Here is a dock- yard with a marine railway and foundry attached, capable of making machinery of the largest description, and giving emplby- ment to a great number of men. It is owned by the ** Niagarat Dock Company.* Steamers leave daily for Toronto, etc. Fort George, situated a short distance south or up-streamk from the mouth ot the river, is now in ruins. This was the scene of a severe contest in 1813, in which the Americaas were - ▼ictorious. A new fort has been erected on the point of land at . the mouth of the river, directly opposite old Fort JVingara on» the American side. The new fortification is called Fort Maaaa- I The whole frontier on the Canada side, from Fort George to Fort Erie, opposite Buffalo, was occupied by the American army in 1814, when occurred a succession of battles of the noii. de* termined and brilliant character. 18 TT m I': Pi lEU lb j|U-4>Vf NIAGARA RIVER, ITS BAPIDB, FALLS, ISLANDS, AND EOMANTIO SCENEBT. " MfOettio stream ! what river riralt thee, Thou child of many lakes, and sire ofone^ Lalces that claim kindred with the all-circling sea- Large at thy birth as when thy race is mn i Against what great obstructions hast thou woa Thino august way— the rock-formed mountain-plain Has opened at thy bidding, and the steep Bars not thy passage, for the ledge in vain Stretches across the channel— thou dost leap Sublimely down the height, and urge again Thy rock-embattled course on to the distant main." This most remarkable and romantic stream, the outlet of Lake Erie, through which flows all the accumulated waters of the Upper Lakes of North America, yery appropriately forms the boundary t)etween two great countries, the British proTince of Upper Canada on the one side, and the State of New York, the ** Empire State" of the Union, on the opposite side. In its whole course, its peculiar character is quite in keeping with the stupendous Cataract from which its principal, interest is derived. The amount of water passing through this channel is im- ntense ; from a computation which has been made at the outlet of Lake Erie, the quantity thus discharged is about twenty millions of cubic feet, or upward of 600,000 tons per minute, all of which great Tolume of water, 20 miles below, plung\!S over the Falls of Niagara. The Niagara River commences at Bird Island, nearly opposite the mouth of Bu£falo harbor, and passes by the site of old Fort Erie and Waterloo on the Canada side. At the latter place s | steam ferry-boat plies across the river to Black Rock, now fonn- ing a part of the city of Buffalo. It is here proposed to cod* I NIAGARA RTVER. 207 10 SCENERY. itrnot a railroad bridge across the stream, about 1,800 feet in width. Squaw Iblaicd and Strawberry Island are both small islands lying on the American side of the stream, near the head of Grand Inland The riyer is here used in part for the Erie Canal, a pier extending from Squaw Island to Bird Island, forming a large basin called Black Rock Harbor. Ok AND Imland, attached to Erie Co., N. Y., is a large and important body of land, about ten miles long from nortii to south, and seven miles wide. This island is partly cleared and caltivated, while the larger portion is covered with a large growth of oaks and other forest trees. The ship or steamboat channel runs along the bank of Grand Island to nearly opposite Chippewa, where the whole stream unites betore plunging over the Falls of Niagara, being again separated at the head of Goat Island. From this point the awe-struck traveler can scan the quiet waters above, and the raging rapids below, preparing to plunge over the cataract. Cayuga Island and Buckhorn Island are small bodies of land belonging to the United States, situated immediately below Grand Island. Navy Island, lying opposite the village of Chippewa, 18 miles below the head of the river, is a celebrated island belong- ing to the Canadians, having been taken possession of by the sympathizing patriots in 1837, when a partial rebellion occurred in Upper and Lower Canada. Tonawanda, 11 miles below Buffalo, is situated at the mouth of Tonawanda Creek, opposite Grand Island. The Erie Canal here enters the creek, which it follows for several miles on its cowrso toward Lockport. A railroad also runs to Lockport, connecting with the JVew York Central Railroad, extending to Albany. A ship canal is proposed to be constructed from Tonawanda to some eligible point on Lake Ontario, thus form- hig a rival to the Welland Canal of Canada. • Schlosser's L ANDiiro , two miles above Niagara Falls village: is a noted steamboat landing, opposite Chippewa, from whence 4 •*- >:, •^'•" i'ir."'^ ..I,i i!|ll i-i!!i 208 NIAGARA RIVER. % the steamer Caroline was cut adrift by the British and de- stroye-l, by being precipitated over the Falls during the Ca- nadian rebellion, December 29th, 1837. The Rapids. — Below Navy Island, between Chippewa and Schlosser, the river is nearly three miles in width, but soon narrows to oiie mile, when the Rapids commence, and continue for about one mile before reaching the edge of the precipice at the Ilorse-Shoe Fall. At the commencement of the Rapids " the bed of the river declines, the channel contracts, numerous large rocks heave up the rolling surges, and dispute the passage of the now raging and foaming floods. The mighty torrent leaping down succes- sive ledges, dashing over opposing elevations, hurled back by ridges, and repelled from shores and islands — plunging, boiling, roaring — seems a mad wilderness of waters striving against its better fate, and hurried on to destruction by its own blind and reckless impetuosity. Were there no cataract, these Rapids would yet make Niagara the wonder of the world." Iris, or Goat Island, commences near the head of the Rapids, and extends to the precipice, of which it forms a part, separating the American Fall from the Canadian or Horse-Shoe Fall. It is about half a mile in length, eighty rods wide, and contains over sixty acres of arable land, being for the most part covei ed with a heavy growth of forest trees of a variety of species, and native pljmts and flowers. A portion of the island, however, has been cleared off, and a garden ipclosed, in which are some excellent fruit trees, and a variety of native and foreign plants and flowers, and a fish-pond. The island is re- markably cool, shady, and pleasant, and is an object of unceas- ing admiration from year to year. Comfortable seats and arbors are placed at the most interesting points, where tbe visitor can sit at ease and enjoy the beautiful and sublime riews presented to his sight— often entranced by a deafening roar of mighty waters in their descent, often accompanied by changing rainbows gf the most gorgeous desoription. NIAGARA RIVER. 209 NIAGARA. WRITTEN BY LTDIA H. SIGOURIfEY. Flow on forever, in thy glorious robe Of terror and of beauty ; God hath set His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud Mantles around thy feet, and He doth give Thy voice of thunder power to speak of Him Eternally ; bidding the lip of man * Keep silence, and upon thy rocky altar Four incense of awe>struck praise. Goat Island Bridge. — The Niagara Falls Gazette gives the following description of this new structure : (( This bridge across the east branch of the Niagara River is situated in the Rapids, about sixty rods above the Cataract, on the site of the old wooden bridge. It is 360 feet long, and cour gists of four arches of ninety feet span each, supported between the abutments of three piers. The piers above water are built of heavy out stone, and are twenty -two feet long and six feet wide, tapering one foot in the height. The foundations are formed of foot-square oak timber, strongly framed and bolted together in cribs, filled with stone, and covered with timber at the surface of the water. These timber-foundations are pro- tected against wear and injury from ice by heavy plates of iron, an<^ being always covered with witter, will be as durable as the stone. "The superstructure is of iron, on the plan of Whipple's iron-archod bridge. The whole width is twenty-sevtn feet, affording a double carriage-way of sixteen and a half feet, and two foot-ways of five and a foui ♦h feet each, with iron railings. The arches are of cast iron, and the chords, suspenders, and' braces of wrought iron. All the materials used in the construc- tion are of the best quality, and the size and strength of all the parts far beyond what are deemed necessary in bridges exposed to the severest tests. •' This substantial and beautiful structure, spanning a branch- of this majestic river in ihe midst of the rapids, and overlook- ing the cataract, is worthy of the site it occupies, and affords another instance of the triumph of human ingenuity over the obstacles of nature. "The islands connected by this bridge with the American shore are the property of Messrs. Porter, and constitute the- most interesting features in the scenery surroundins the cata- ract. This briage has been erected by them to facilitate com- 18* -iil "t.^Ll- 210 KIAOARA KIVER. 11 11 li! !"pl 'i ^, m '"li |ii ijl munication with these interesting localities not otherwise ac- cessible." This is a toll-bridge, every foot passenger being charged 25 cents for the season, or single crossing. There are upward of thirty islands and islets in the Niagara River or Strait, above the cataract. Most of those not described are small, and scarcely worthy of enumeration, although those immediately contiguous to Goat Island form beautiful objects in connection with the rushing and mighty waters by which they are surrounded. Bath Island, Brig Island, Chapin's Island, and Bird Island, all situated immediately above the American Fall, are reached by bridges. When on Goat Island, turning to the right toward the Falls, the first object of interest is Hogg's Back, a point of land fac- ing the American Fall,~ Bridge to Adington Island immediately above the Cave of the Winds, 160 feet below. Sam. Patch's Point is next passed on the right, from which he took a fearful leap some years since. Biddle's Stairs descend to the water's edge below and the Cave of the Winds, which are annually visited by thousands of visitors. Terrapin Bridge and Terrapin Tower afford a grand view of the Canadian or Horse-Shoe Fall and Rapids above the Falls. Three Sister Islands are contiguous to Goat Island, on the American side. Passing around Goat Island toward the south, a grand view is afforded of the river and rapids above the Canadian and American Falls. CATARACT OP NIAGARA. " Shrine of Omnipotence ! how vast, how graud. How awfiil, yet how beautiAiI thou art I PillarM around thy everlusting hills, Robed in the drapery of descending floods. Crowned by the rainl>ow, canopied by clouds That roll in incense up from thy dread base, Hid by their mantling o'er the vast abyss Upon whose verge thou standest, whence ascends The mitf hty anthem of thy Maker's praise, Hymii'd in eternal thunders i^ ■ I: ■• ■ • ■:'lye the American toward the Falls, point of land fac- iland immediately w. Sam. Patch's he took a fearful ind to the water's ich are annually dge and Terrapin Horse-Shoe Fall ds are contiguous Lng around Goat rded of the rivep FaUs. raud, uds •e, iscends I: iiii * K ■ja CJ K ' '^^ c't <•»; %fc^i ' * 1 --■ '^i THE \ilK:i:C\N FALLS UY MOOM.UJHT. 1^ !| itm i^ I i!IJ iiiiii -^■ m 3 •1 u ■%\i 1 ■^ I W- '^j!i r ,, y^' v«T-; \, ., ^ M\' >, .- T f"^| -f I Tim' I TTB^^^M " Si'.;: '^^ »- %^ M « =5- ■ -^ ^ ^^- TlIK AMKIIICAN FALLS IJV MOOM.KaiT. V-5 'A ;l i *i li ^1 ife. ^ *i '.' #*s nA \m il! and j water Michi pice 1 be he£ miles, withoi the vi< pal wt is call< priate, and fc fall, G the pi project Americ Island, extendi has bee and an( erected Goat Is stand fine vie^ Americi Goat Is Canadia rods. [ I feet; n( Island, < Cataract of niaoara. 211 ^AG ARA is a word of Indian origin — the orthography, accentuation and meaning of which arc variously given by different authors It is highly probable that this diversity might be accounted for and explained by tracing the appellation through the dialects of the several tribes of aborigines who formerly inhabited the * ^hboring country. There is reason to beheve, however, that the etymon belongs to the language of the Iroquois, and signifies the ** Thunder of Waters.** " When the traveler first arrives at the cataract, he stands and gazes, and is lost in admiration. The mighty volume of water which forms the outlet of the great Lakes Superior, Michigan, Huron, and Erie, is here precipitated over a preci- pice 160 feet high, with a roar like that of thunder, which may be heard, in favorable circumstances, to the distance of fifteen miles, though, at times, the Falls may be nearly approached without perceiving much to indicate a tremendous cataract in the vicinity. In consequence of a bend in the river, the princi- pal weight of water is thrown on the Canadian side, down what is called the Horse- Shoe Fall, which name has become inappro- priate, as the edges of the precipice have ceased to be a curve, and forms a moderately acute angle. Near the middle of the fall, Goat Island, containing 75 acres, extends to the brow of the precipice, dividing the river into two parts ; and a small projecting mass of rock at a little distance from it, toward the American shore, again divides the cataract on that side. Goat Island, at the lower end, presents a perpendicular mass of rocks, extending from the bottom to the top of the precipice, A bridge has been constmcted from the American shore to Bath Island, and another connects the latter with Goat Island, and a tower is erected on the brow of the Horse- Shoe Fall, approached from Goat Island by a short bridge, on which the spectator seems to stand over the edge of the mighty cataract, and which aifords a fine view of this part of it. The distance at the fall from the American shore to Goat Island is 65 rods ; across the front of Ooat Island is 78 rods ; around the Horse-Shoe Fall, on the Canadian slile, 144 rods ; directly across the Horse-Shoe, 74 i rods. The height of the fall near the American shore is 163 I feet; near Goat Island, on the same side, 158 feet; near Goar^ Island, on the Canada side, 154 feet. Table Rock, a shelving 212 CATARACT OF NIAGARA. ■f: W 'i? 'i'4 m 1 1 , i-f !^!li| !;\:i)i l'i":i pi'0J3C /ion on the Canadian side, at the edge of the precipice, is 150 feot high. This place is generally thought to present the finest view of the Falls ; though if the spectator will visit the tower on the opposite side on Goat Island, at sunrise, when the wholo cavity is enlightened hy the sun, and the gorgeous bow trembles in the risinj^ spray, he can not elsewhere, the world over, enjoy such an incomparable scene. A covered stairway on the American side descends from the top to the bottom of the precipice. *' It las been computed that 100 million tons of water are dis- charged over the precipice every hour. The Rapids commence about a mile above the Falls, and the water descends 67 feet be- fore it arrives at the cataract. The view from the bridge to Goat Island, of the troubled water dashing tumultuously over the rocks of the American fall, is terrific. While curiosity con- stitutes an attribute of the human character, these falls will bu frequented by admiring and delighted visitors as one of the grandest exhibitions in nature. ** This stupendous cataract, situated in N. lat. 43° 6,' and W. long. 2° G' from Washington, is twenty-two miles north from the efflux of the river at Lake Erie, and fourteen miles so''th of its outlet into Lake Ontario. The whole length of the river is therefore thirty-six miles, its general course is a few points to the west of north. Though commonly called a river, this por- tion of the St. Lawrence is, more properly speaking, a slrait, connecting, as above mentioned, the Lakes £rie and Ontario, and conducting the superfluous waters of the great seas and streams above though a broad and divided, and afterward compressed, devious, and irregular channel to the latter lake, into which it empties — the point of union being about forty miles from the western extremity of Lake Ontario. *' The climate of the Niagara is in the highest degree health- ful and invigorating. The atmosphere, constantly acted upon by the rushing water, the noise and the spray, is kept pure, re- freshing, and salutary. There are no stagnant pools or marshes | near to send abroad their foetid exhalations and noxious mias- mas, poisoning the air and producing disease. *' Sweet-breathing herbs and beautiful wild flowers spring I up spontaneously even on the sides, and in the crevices of the [ piant rocks ; and luxuriant clusters of firs and other stately lorest trees cover the islands, crown the cliffs, and overhftDgl the banks of Niagara. Here are no mosquitoes to annoy, no[ reptiles to alarm, and no wild animals to intimidate, yet therel is life and vivacity. The many-hued butterfly sips ambrosi»| from the fresh opened honey-cup— birds carol their lays of loti among the spray- starred branches ; and the lively squirr skips chattering from tree to tree. Varieties of water-fowli i OARARACT OF NIAGARA. 213 he precipice, is to present the T viU visit the [irise, vrhen the gorgeous how here, the world 3verod stairway tie bottom of the )f Tvater are dis- ,apid8 commenco Kjends 67 feet be- om the bridge to imultuously over »Uo curiosity con- these falls will ba 3rs as one of the at. 4S° 6,' and AV les north from the , miles sovth of its rth of the river 18 J is a few points to 4 a river, this por- speaking, a ffraiU ie and Ontario, and tt seas and streams jrward compressed' lake, into which 1 »rty miles from the Ibest degree health- istantly acted upon ty, is kept pure, re. mt pools or marshes and noxious mias- ] E,ild flowers spring 1 the crevices of tb [s and other stately cliffs, and overhaBg Utoes to a^;>y' n Ltimidate, yet thew [terfly sips ambrM Irol their lays of lo^ 1 the lively squiTT ties of water-fowl, certain seasons of the year, sport among the rapids, the sea-cull filays around the precipice, and the eagle -the banner bird of reedom — hovers above the cataract, plumes his gray pinions in its curling mists, and makes his home among the giant firs of its inaccessible islands. " No place on the civilized earth offers l5uch attractions and inducements to visitors as Niagara, and they can never be fully known except to those who se > nnd study them, from the utter impossibility of describing such a scene as this wonderful cataract presents. When motion can be expressed by t jlor, there will be some hope of imparting a faint idea of it ; but until that can be donCj Niagara must remain undescribed." Below the Falls, the first objects of interest a'*e the Ferry Stairs and Point View on the American side ; while on the opposite side is a lorry and steamboat landing, where carriages are usually to be found to convey passengers to the Clifton House, Table Rock, and other places. About 30 rods below the ferry stairs is the spot where the hermit Abbot was droNfned. Half a mile below the latter point is Catlin's Cave, formerly much frequented. The steamboat landing for the Maid of the Mist is situated on the American shore two miles below the Falls and about half mile above the Suspension Bridge. This steamer, the second t of the same name, first commenced running as an experi- ent boat in 1848 ; since then she has run annually without n accident of any kind. The first trip was made on September 8th, 1846, by Capt. H. Filkins, who with his small crew were he only persons on bciird, except an intrepid Canadian who was esirous of crossing the river with a horse, they both being fely landed on the Canadian shore. The SuspENsioic Bridge, the greatest artificial curiosity in erica, is situated two miles and a half below the Falls, where as recently sprung into existence JViagara City^ or better own as the Suspensio?i Bridge, on the American side^ and W-^n on the Canadian side of the rivor, here being about 800 in width, with perpendicular banks of 825 feet. The Whirlpool and Rapids, one mile below the Bridge, are ific sights of great interest, and well worthy a visit. V, ^1 IS i: ,41 iT**! VM ! .'\ I- I4» ■ I If! fi-i 4. ■ II » • t M J I III 1,1 : ,: '* "J iii|iif 214 CATARACT OF KIAQARA. The Devir» Hole, one mile farther down, is also a point of great attraction, together with the Bloody Run, a small stream where a detachment of English soldiers were precipitated in their flight from an attaclc by Indians during the old Frencli war in 1769. An amphitheater of high ground spreads around and perfectly incloses the valley of the Deyil's Hole, with tie exception of a narrow ravine formed by Bloody Run— from which, against a large force, there is no escape, except over th*^ precipice. The Ice Cave is another object of interest con- nected with the Devil's Hole. The Rapids beloiif the Whirlpool are the next object of attrac- tion ; then Queenston Heights and Brook's Monument on the Ca* nadian side, and the Suspension Bridge at Lewiston ; altogether forming objects of interest sufficient to fill a well-sized volume. The Niagara River is navigable from Lewiston to its mouth at Fort Niagara, a farther distance of seven miles, or fourteen below the Falls of Niagara. NEW STEAMER MAID OP THE MIST. This steamboat will in future stop at both the Ferry landings, on the American and Canadian shores. She is of 170 tons bur- den, propelled by a powerful engine of over 100 horse-power, built expressly for this route, furnished with Francis* Life-boats, and all the modern improvements. The Cabins, Saloons, and Promenade Deck extend over the whole boat, so that passengers will be completely protected from the spray ; now making her regular trips under the pilotage of J. R. Robinson, the cele- brated navigator of the Rapids of Niagara. The pleasure trip up to the Falls would seem to require little j to recommend it, as the thousands who have repeated it in ihs^ old boat can bear witness to its great attractions. The novelty, beauty, and grandeur of the scene can not be over-estimated, passing as the boat does, for two miles through the gorge of the Niagara, directly in front of the New Railroad Suspension j Bridge, the American Fall, Lunar Island, Cave of the Winds, to CATARACT OF NIAGARA. 215 is also a point of in, a small stream re precipitated in ig the old French id spreads around I's Hole, with the Jloody Run— from loape, except over ct of interest con- it object of attrac- numenton tbeCa' iwiston; altogether ivell-sized volume, ton to its niiouth at miles, or fourteen MIST. tlie Ferry landings, is of 170 tons hur- 100 horse-power, rancis* Life-boats, bins, Saloons, and so that passengers ; now making her obinson, the cele- em. to require little repeated it in the j ons. The noTcIty, be over-estimated, 'h. the gorge of the I dlroad Suspension! ve of the Winds, to the Great Horse-Shoe Falls and Table Rock, all of which are presented at one view to the beholder in their most sublime and imposing aspect. The boat will run daily {Surnlays excepted), leaving Suspen- sion Bridge Wharf morning and evening. The charge for the Pleasure Trip will be ^30 cents. j?a9* Omnibuses and Carriages run from c s ' h i depots and hotels in connection with the boat. Tlie village of Niagara Falls, Niagara Co., N. Y., is sit- uated on the east side of Niagara River, in the immediate vi- cinity of the grand Cat5>.ract, 22 miles from Buffalo and 803 nules from Albany by railroad route. No place in the Union exceeds this favored spot as a fashionable place of resort dur- ing the summer and fall months, when hundreds of visitors may be seen every day flocking to Qoat Island, or points con- tiguous ' the Rapids and Falls. The village contains several large h els for the accommodation of visitors, the most noted of which are the Cataract House and the International Hotel ; the Monteagle Hotel, situated two miles below the Falls, near the Suspension Bridge, and the Clifton House, on the Canada side, are all alike popular and well-kept hotels ; there are five churches of dififerent denominations ; 15 stores, in many of which are kept for sale Indian curiosities and fancy work of different kinds. The water-power here afforded by the descending stream, east of Goat Island, is illimitable. A paper-mill, a flouring-mill, two saw-mills, a woolen factory, a furnace and machine shop, together with other manufacturing establish- ments, here use the water-power so bountifully Rupplied. The population is about 8,000. The railroads centering at the Falls are the Buffalo, JViagara Falls and Letviston Railroad, the JVew York Central Rail- road, and the Canandaigtui and JMagara Falls Railroad ; the latter road connecting with the j^ew York and Eric Rail- road, and forming with other roads a direct route to Phila- delphia, Baltimore, and AVashington ' ( 1 '*ti 'k K ':'' 11 4 % J ' 1 H I'll 'I'" I',, I t hn 216 CATARACT OP NIAGARA. An omnihtts line runs hourly from the village of Niagara Falls to Niagara City, or Suspension Bridge, daring the sum- mer moiths, and thence to the Clifton House and Table Bock on the Canada side, affording a cheap mode of visiting both sides of Niagara River. Ni/.iiARA City, situated two miles below the Falls, at the Suspension Bridge^ is a new f»nd flourishing place. Here is lo- cp.ted the Monteagle Hotel, and other public houses, together with several stores and manufacturing establishments. DIMENSIONS OF SUSPENSION BRIDGE. Lengi H of span from center to center of towers. 822 feet. Height of railroad track above water 250 " Height of towers above rock on American side. . 88 " Height of toTvers above rock on Canada side 78 '* Height of towers above floor of railway 60 " Number of wire cables 4 Diameter of each cable 10 inches Number of wires in each cable : . 3,659 Weight of superstructure. 750 tons. Base of towers 16 feet sq Top of towers 8 " Depth of anchor pits below surface of rocks 30 feet. WEIGHT OF THE MATERIALS IN THE BRIDGE. Timber of different kinds. 919,130 lbs. Wrought iron and suspenders 113,120 " Castings , 44,322 " Iron raib, 66,740 " Cable between towers 536,400 " Total ,1,678,722 " The Gieat Western Railway of Canada , which unites with the New York Central Railroad, terminating on the American side of the river, here commences and extends westward through Hamilton, London, and Chatham to Windsor, opposite Detroit, Mich., forming one of the great through lines of travel from Boston and New York to Chicago and the Far West. This road also furnishes a speedy route of travel to Toronto, Collingwood, etc. LEWISTON TO OSWEOO AND OGDENSBUROH. 229 completed, enter the bay with ease, and take refuge there. This fact gives great advantages to Little Sodus Bay, as it makes it accessible at all times." The City of Oswego, 36 miles north of Syracuse by railroad, is advar (cageonsly situated on both sides of Oswego Kiver, at iit) entrance into Lako Ontario. It is a port of entry, was char- tered in 1848, being divided into four wards. In 1855 it con- tained 16,000 inhabitaAts, 1,500 dwelling-houses, two Presby- terian, two Episcopal, two Baptist, two Methodist, two Boman Catholic, one Universalist, and one African church, besides a Bethel congregation ; a court-house and jail, a custom-house, . four banking houses, two savings* banks; a gas company, a. female seminary, and orphan asylum. There are several well- kept hotels ; the Munger House and the Hamilton House on the : east side of the river, and the Welland House on the west side,, are the most frequented by pleasure travelers. The Pardee^ House is a new and commodious hotel which is nearly com- pleted, situated on the west side of the river, near the steamboat . landing. The Oswego and Syracuse Railroad, 36 miles in length, cone>- neots this place with the Central Railroad of New York, while - another railroad is being constructed on the east side of the • Oswego River, to run to Syracuse and connect witl^ the Syra-r cuse and Binghamton Railroad, thus forming another direct . route to the cities of New York and Philadelphia, and the coaL. region of Pennsylvania. The Oswego Canal also connects with the Erie Canal at Syracuse, altogether affording great facilitieaj for trade and commerce, in connection with the lake naviga- - tion and water privilege. Here are now in operation 15 flour- - ing-mills, with 84 run of stones, making 8,400 barrels of flour • per day when in full operation ; ten elevators capable of eleva- ting 38,000 bushels of grain per hour, with storage room fbr 2,000,000 bushels. These huge edifices are so arranged a» to • unload and load vessels with great dispatch. The Oswego Starch Factory, owned by an incorporated lH)dy, was erected in 1848, since which large additions have been. 20 •■•I - it 'ri >i •N. 1 r ill HSil'' iiC :nH •I s ^ I Mm 230 LEW18T0N TO OSWEGO AND OGDENSBURGH. made. The entire front of the building is now 510 feet, five stories high, extending back over the river 260 feet ; it is capa- ble of manufacturing twelve millions pounds of com starch per year, consuming some 600,000 bushels of com for the purpose, and giving employment to 800 persons. In addition to the above are two steam-engine and machine works, two iron and brass foundries, one cotton-mill, besides several other mills and factories. The quantity of water flowing in the Oswego River at ordin- ary high water is 700,000 cubic feet per m.'nute, at low water 200,000. Fall at the two lower dams ir the city, 86 feet, affording altogether an immense and reliable water-power. The number of vessels which arrive and depart annually from this port is very large; there being here owned eight steamers and propellers and about 100 schooners, averaging over 100 tons burden, besides a large number of canal boats. The harbor is capacious and safe, being well protected by two large stone piei-s, constructed by the United States government. On the end of the west pier is situated a light-house ; about half a mile above are two bridges extending across the river, 600 feet in length. An extensive forwarding business is done at this place by means of lake, river, and canal navigation; goods passing through from New York to Oswego, and thence over the GoUingwood route, or through the Welland Canal to the Upper Lakes. Oswego now ranks as one of the greatest grain markets in the world, and will no doubt continue to increase with the growth and production of the Western States and Canada. The lumber trade is also very great, immense quantities being shipped from Canada to this port, and re-shipped to Eastern markets. The impulse imparted to the commerce of Oswego by the late Reciprocity Treaty, which went into force October, 1864, ia very great, as wiU be seen by the following returns made from official figures ; ii;i 8BURGH. LEWISTON TO OSWEGO AND 00DEN8BUR0H. 231 1S54. 1865. Value of Foreign Imports $2,860,918 $6,13P,748 « «* Exporte 8,734,168 M70,920 Total $6,595,086 $12,010,668 Here it will be seen that the trade with Canada nearly doubled in the first year under the operation of the above treaty. The domestic or coastwise trade is also constantly and rapidly increasing. One of the Steamers of the Ontario and St. Lawrence Steam- boat Company leaves Oswego daily fbr Sacket's Harbor, Kings- ton, C. W., and Ogdensburgh, connecting with steamers running to Montreal and Rouse's Point, via the Northern Railroad of New York. A steamer also leaves Oswego daily, for Rochester, Niagara* C. W., and Lewiston, connecting with steamers for Toronto, etc. The Toronto and Collingwood line of steamers runs daily. Sun- I days excepted, from Oswego to Toronto, 150 miles, forming the most direct route through Lake Ontario to the Upper Lakes. i**ii '5 ..!4 r3 IBAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM SYRACUSE TO NIAGARA FALLS, via OSWEGO AND LEWISTON. This route, during the season of navigation on Lake Ontario, lis a most interesting line of travel, affording the tourist a fine opportunity of viewing the scenery peculiar to Lake Ontario {and Niagara River. The Oswego and Syracuse JRailroad, 35 miles in length, runs I along the west side of Onondaga Lake to the Seneca River, which I is passed near Baldwinbville, the first stopping-place after ng Syracuse. From thence the road runs north on the |wo6t side of Oswego River, passing opposite to the village of IFcjLTON, 11 miles from the city of Oswego. Passenger cars [usually leave Syracuse and Oswego three times daily. American steamers leave Oswego daily for Sacket*s Harbor, |King8ton, Canada, Ogdensburgh, etc., in the morning, on the liTal of the cars from Syracuse ; while in the afternoon a :!QMi ll m^ Immn !! J-; i {•I'll! 232 LSWI8T0N TO OSWEGO AND OGPENSBURGIf. steamer leaves for Rochester, Lewiston, etc., running up the lake. Paraengers passing through Oswego are afforded a hastj glance of the city, the harbor, and Fort Ontario, the latter being located on the east shore of the river at its entrance into Lake Ontario. DISTANCES AND FARE BETWEEN SYRACUSE AND NIAGAEA FALLS, vi-^ OSWEGO AND LEWISTON. Stopping Places. Miles. Fare. Syracuse OswKGO 35 $1 00 Pultneyville 75 — Cvi AnLOTTE, or Port Genesee 100 — Niagara, C. W ... 174 — Lewiston 182 — Niagara Falls. .188 4 00 Slopping Places. Miles. Fare. Niagara Falls . . Lewiston 6 $0 60 Niagara, C.W. ... 14 — Charlotte, or Port Genesee 88 — Pult-eyville 113 - Oswego 153 -— Syracuse 188 4 00 On resuming the trip from Oswego to Sacket's Harbor, the steamer runs in a northerly direction ofif Mexico Bay, being a large expanse of water at the east end of Lake Ontario, where lies Port Ontario, at the mouth of Salmon River. On this stream is situated one of the most romantic falls in the country. Salmon River rises in Lewis Co., and flows west through Oswego Co. into Lake Ontario; discharging its waters into Mexico Bay, at the village of Port Ontario. This is a fine and durable stream, having a tolerably good harbor at its mouth, and is beatable during high water to the Falls in Orwell, a dis- tance of 14 miles. " The Falls of Salmon River may be classed among the principal natural curiosities of the country. The current is gentle above for six or more miles, then two miles of rapids, and at the falls drops almost perpendicular 107 feet. At high water the sheet is 250 feet in width, but at low water it is narrowed down to about half that extent. The rocky strata seem to be composed of slate stone and granite, or gneiss, and the height of the banks immediately above the fall is variously estimated at from 70 to 90 feet; below it is said 7SBURG1I. LEWISTON TO OSWEOO AND 00DEN8BUR0H. 233 that the walls, perpendicular rock, are about 200 feet. At the foot of the cataract there is very deep water, abounding in fine fish, such as salmon, trout, etc.*' « Great Stone y Island and other islands are passed as the steamer approaches Black RiVer Bay, which affords the most capacious and safe harbor on Lake Ontario. Here enters Black River, an important stream, which rises many miles to the east- ward, interlocking with the waters of the Mohawk and other tributaries of the Hudson River. Sacket*s Harbor, 45 miles north of Oswego, and distant 38 miles from Kingston, Canada, possesses one of the best and most secure harbors on Lake Ontario, being situated on Black River Bay, ten miles below Watertown, with which place it is soon to be connected by a railroad. It was an important naval nnd military station during the war of 1812, with Great Britain ; it being the rendezvous of the American fleet on Lake Ontario. Here now lies a large war vessel under cover, which was commence ' at the abov> period. Madison BarVacks, gar- risoned by United States troops, is handsomely situated near the steamboat landing, being in full view from the water. This place is an important port of entry, and no doubt destined to increase in wealth and numbers on the opening of railroad facilities. The village now contains four churches, two hotels, twenty stores, four storehouses, a ship-yard and rope-walk, three saw-mills, two furnaces, an iron foundry and machine-shop. The Sacket^s Harbor and Ellisburgh Bailroad, 18 miles in length, connects with the Watertown and Rome Railroad. Black River, so called from the color of its water, is the third in magnitude that has its whole course in the State of New York. Its whole course is about 120 miles, and is navigable from the High Falls in Leyden, where it has a fall of 63 feet, to the Long Falls at Carthage, a distance of 40 miles : thence, by a succession of rapids and falls, it continues a cir- cuitous route, until It empties into Black Biuer Bay, near the foot of Lake Ontario. It is b deep, sluggish stream, but the navigation is much obstructed by falls ; affording, however, fine 20* •'■.if Si '^il ')■,] I. ■^ Wm 1 ■ I ' il'"ii' 234 LEWISTON TO OSWEOO AND OGDENSBUROH. water-power. The land on the borders of the lower part of the river is very fertile and thickly settled ; Je£ferson County — and the vicinity of Watertown in particular, where is a good water power — is justly celebrated for its agricultural products. Chaumont Bay, situated north of Backet's Harbor at Black River Bay, is a large body of water abounding in fish of several kinds and fine flavor ; here being extensive fisheries, where are annually taken large quantities of fish. The trip across the foot of Lake Ontario from Sacket's Harbor to Kingston, Can. , 38 miles, is a very interesting excursion during pleasant weather. Here may be seen beautiful headlands and several picturesque islands; the Fox and Grenadier islands are passed before reaching Grand or fVcffe Island, attached to Canada. This latter island, situated in the St. Lawrence River, at the foot of Lake Ontario, is a large and fertile body of land, being settled by Canadians. Cape Vincent, Jefferson Co., N. Y., is situated at the head of the St. Lawrence River, where terminates the Watertown and Borne Railroad^ and is a port of entry. It contains about 1,100 inhabitants, four churches, five hotels and taverns, ten stores, and an extensive storehouse connected with the railroad; one steam grist-mill, one foundry and machine-shop, one steam planing-mill, and a ship-yard. Steamers arrive and depart daily for diffierent ports on Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River. A steamer also leaves Cape Vincent twice daily for Kingston, Canada, during navigation ; while in winter, stages run across the ice to Grand or Wolfe Island, and thence to Kingston, distant 12 miles by direct route. Cape Vincent is a healthy and pleasant location, being much resorted to in warm weather by fishing and pleasure parties, being contigu- ous to the •* Thousand Islands.** CiiAYTON, or French Creek, 18 miles below Cape Vincent, lies opposite Grindstone Island, attached to the State of New York. The village contains three churches, two public houses,ten stores, and a foundry and machine-shop. Here is an extensive ship* yard for the construction of steamers and other lake craft. LEWISTON TO OSWEOO AND OOOENSBURGH. 235 The Black River and Utica Railroad^ when completed, will extend to Clayton, a distance of 109 miles from Utica. ALEZAin>RiA Bat, 12 miles below Clayton, is favorably ritnated on the southeast shore of the St. Lawrence, in the im- mediate Ticinity of the greatest cluster of the Thousand Islands. The Tillage contains one Presbyterian church, two good hotels for the accommodation of summer visitorSj three stores, a steam Baw-mill, a ship-yard, and about 850 inhabitants. No place on the St. Lawrence River exceeds this vicinity for its salubrity of climate and picturesque water scenery. The islands here, almost innumerable, are annually resorted to by visitors from almost every section of the country for health, and to enjoy the pleasure of fishing and hunting. Well's Island is settled by some 20 or 80 families, and is, no doubt, destined to become a favorite resort, as a hotel is pro- jected, to be located near the foot of this lovely island. MoRKisTowx, N. Y., 11 miles above Ogdensburgh, lies nearly opposite Brockville, C. W.,with which it is connected by a ferry. This is a regular landing-place for the American steamers. The village contains two churches, two taverns, three stores, and about 850 inhabitants. Ogdensburgh, St. Lawrence Co., N. Y., is advantageously situated at the mouth of the Oswegatchie River whore it empties into the St. Lawrence. It was first incorporated as a village in 1817, and now contains about 8,000 inhabitants, 1,000 dwelling- bouses ; one each Episcopal, Presbyterian, Baptist, Methodist, wd Roman Catholic church — and a Universalist congregation ; an incorporated academy, three banks, two insurance officer, a custom-house, six public houses, 100 stores of different kinds. The Oswegatchie River here furnishes an abundance of water- power, where are situated one woolen factory, two flouring-mills, tiiree grist-mills, three saw-mills, one paper-mill, two planing- mills and two furnaces, a ship-yard and marine railway. This place is situated near the foot of sloop navigation on the St. Lawrence, although steamers of a large class run the Rapids t» Montreal, 120 miles, asoeuding through the St. Lawrence canals. m if t 230 LKWISTOK TO OSWEOO AND OQDENSBUROH. Two daily lines of steamers leave Ogdensburgh for Cape Vincent, Kingston, Oswego Toronto, Lewiston, etc., while two daily lines leave Ogdensburgh or Prescott for Montreal, etc. Two steam ferry-boats run across the St. Lawrence, here one mile and a half wide, to Prescott, forming a close connection between the two shores. The JVorthern Railroad extends from Ogdensburgh easterly to Rouse's Point, N. Y., 118 miles, connecting with steamers and railroads extending to Boston and New York. A railroad is also projected to extend from Ogdensburgh and form a junction with the Potsdam and Watertown Railroad. Propellers and lake craft annually deposit an immense amount of Western produce, to be carried forward by railroads to East- em markets. As a stopping-place for pleasure travelers, Og- densburgh stands unrivaled, having the Thousand Islands above and the magnificent Rapids of the St. Lawrence below. Passen- gers are here usually transferred from the floating palaces of Lake Ontario to the equally safe but smaller steamers which run the Rapids to Montreal. The JVorthern Transportation Coin, has here lis principal ofBice for the trans-shipment of produce and merchandise going East and West. This company owns 15 propellers, of about 350 tons burden, running from Ogdensburgh and Oswego to Cleveland, Toledo, Detroit, Milwaukee, Chicago, etc. This line affords a cheap and speedy route of travel for travelers and emigrants. The Oswegatchie River ^ which empties into the St. Lawrence at Ogdensburgh, is the outlet of Black Lake, lying in the county of St. Lawrence. The lake and river are navigable for about 25 miles, to within four miles of Ogdensburgh. At the mouth of this river, now a part of the village of Ogdensburgh, an early settlement was made by the French, and fortifications erected, all of which have gone to decay. The Trip from Kingston to Ogdensburgh and Montreal is de- scribed in another part of this work, following the Canadian route from Hamilton and Toronto to Kingston, Prescott, and Montreal. For further information, see advertisements of Lake Ontario and River St. Lawrence Steamers. TRIP FROM NIAGAKA AND HAMILTON TO TORONTO AND KINGSTON, CANADA. American and Canadian steamers leave Lewision, or Niagara, C. W., daily for Toronto, 40 miles from the mouth of Niagara Riyer, connecting with railroad cars from Buffalo and Niagara Falls, running on both sides of the river. A Canadian steamer also leaves Port Dalhousie daily for Toronto, connecting at St. Catherine's with cars on the Great Western Railway, altogether affording great facilities both in Bommer and winter to resort to the capital of Canada. On leaving the mouth of Niagara River, the steamer pursues a N.W. course direct for Toronto, having, on a clear day, land constantly in sight from the deck of the steamer. Nothing can exceed the pleasure of this trip during pleasant weather. Usually may be seen propellers and sailing vessels on their way to or from Port Dalhousie, the mouth of the Welland Canal» a magnificent work, of which the Canadians are justly proud. Port Dalhousie, 12 miles west of the mouth of Niagara River, and distant 88 miles from Toronto, is a small village sitaated at the terminus of the Welland Canal, four miles below St. Catherine's, with which place it is connected by the Port Lalhousie and Thorold Railroad, five miles in length, connect- ing with the Great Western Railway. The Welland Canal, 28 miles in length, connecting Lake Erie with Lake Ontario, and overcoming the Falls of Niagara, is a work alike beneficial to the commercial interests of the United States and Canada, the former paying by far the greatest amount of tolls. The number of locks are 27, being 150 feet in length and 2^ feet wide. The total rise is 830 feet. The depth of water is 8 J feet, the canal being 45 feet wide at bot- tom and 81 feet at the surface. The feeder branch, from Junc- tion to Dunnville, is 21 miles long. The Broad Creek branch 238 NIAGARA AND HAMILTON TO KINGSTON, ET«.. n^^ ti' M from feeder to Port Maitland, the terminus on Lake Erie, is IJ miles in length, with one lock each. The entire cost of the enlarged canal was about £1,000,000 Canadian ourrencj« or $4,000,000. St. Catherine's, 88 miles south of Toronto by water, 11 miles from raapension Bridge, and 82 miles from Hamilton by railroad route, is advantageously situated on the line of the Welland Canal, here affording a large amount of water-power. This town is a place of great attraction and growing importance, being surrounded by a healthy and rich section of country. Here is a mineral fountain called the ** Artesian Well," also seyeral large and well-kept hotels, for the accommodation of inyalids and seekers of pleasure. The Stevenson House, near the Spring, and the Welland Hotel, are the most frequented by pleasure travelers. The village contains about 5,000 inhabitants, several fine churches and private edifices, here being exhibited a degree of taste and activity equal to any other town of its size in Canada or the United States. If the mineral waters prove as beneficial to invalids as is represented by many who have experienced their beneficial efifects, it is no doubt destined to become a popular watering-place during the summer months. The ** Well'* is situated near the bank of the canal, and is 550 feet in depth; the water being raised by a steam pump to the bath-house, situated on the bank above. The City of Hamii^ton, from its geographical position, and its peculiar natural and artificial advantages, lying on Burling- ton Bay, at the extreme west end of Lake Ontario, has within the last five or six years rapidly increased in wealth and numbers. But a few short years have passed away since the site on which now stands the crowded city, with its stately edifices and its elegant residences, its thronged streets, and its marts and factories teeming with life and business activity, was a dense forest, the residence and hunting-ground of the Indian. It was not many years ago that the waters of its beautiful bay, which now bear upon their bosom magnificent steamers and vessels of NIAGARA AND HAMILTON TO *KIKG8T0N. ETC. 230 every grade, bringing to our port the treasures of other lands, and conveying to Eastern markets the products of the West, were calm and unruffled, saro when the red man launched his barque upon the blue expanse, or when lashed into fury by the angry tempest. Hamilton was first laid out in the year 1818, during the wai with the United States, but for many years it progressed but slowly in population and importance. By the census of 1841 it numbered 8,446 inhabitants. During the succeeding four years the population nearly doubled, and by the census of 1851 the numbers had increased to 10,248. From that period to the present the city has progressed with almost unexampled rapid- ity for Canada. The commencement and completion of the Oreat Western Railway gave an impetus to all kinds of busi- ness. New streets were opened, and handsome edifices sprung up as if by magic in all parts of the city, as well as the more humble edifices. The population is now (1856) estimated hi 25,000, the wealth having increased in greater proportion By the following amounts of assessment of real and personal property during the past six years, it will be seen the value has more than trebled, and since 1852 — three years— nearly doubled : Valuation in 1850. . . .£61,674 1851.... 9'*,259 " 1852.... 105,849 Valuation in 1853. . .£134,858 1854... 156,926 " 1855... 190,479 The city is governed by a mayor and board of aldermen and councilors, together with a police department. The public buildings are a city hall, city hospital, post-office building, twenty churches of different denominations, five banks, and a mechanics' institute. A new custom-house and market build- ing are about being erected, both on a large scale and in a durable style of architecture. The principal hotels are the Anglo-American, King Street, uid City Hotel, Jamos Street. SteameriEi of a large class run from Hamilton to Toronto, Kingston, and other ports on both sides of Lake Ontario, afford- i %: i- 'I 2i0 NIAGARA AND HAMILTON TO KIlfOSTON, ETC. ing a Bpeedy and delightful mode of oonTeyance, not onlj '«;hrough the laktMs, but down the St. Lawrence River to Prescott, Ogdensburgh, and Montreal. For description of railroad roato to Detroit, see page 150. Wellington Square, seven miles below Hamilton, is a place of some importance, it being the outport for '^amilton during the winter months, when the lake is obstructf by ice. Broivte, 13 miles Inlow Hamilton, is a small village con< taining about 400 inhabitants. Here are two public houses, two churches, a grist-mill, a cloth factory, and several lumber yards. Oakville, [\) miles from Hamilton, and about the same die* tance from Toronto, is a place of considerable business, having a good harbor. It contains about 1 ,000 inhabitants ; four churches, several public houses and storos ; a foundry, and other manu- facturing establishments. The country in fhe rear is healthy and productive, being drained by several fine streams. Port Credit, 12 miles from Toronto, is a large shipping port for produce of different kinds. It is situated at the mouth of River Credit, here flowing into Lake Ontario. It was once a favorite resort of the Indians, receiving its name, in early times, from the circumstance of the fur traders here meeting the Indians, and delivering to them on credit their goods, for which the following year they received their value in furs. TORONTO. The City of Toronto, and capital of Canada, is favorably situated on Toronto Bay, in 43° 32' N. lat., and 79° 20' W long, from Greenwich. It is 40 miles N.E. Hamilton, 160 W. from Kingston, 333 from Montreal, and 413 from Quebec by railroad route. The bay is a beautiful sheet of water, about 4 miles long and 2 miles wide, separated from the main body of Lake Ontario, except at its entrance, by a long, narrow strip of sandy beach, the southwest termination of which is known as Gibral* tar Point, on c^hich is located a light-house. NIAGARA AND HAMILTON TO KINGSTON, ETC. 24t ** Toronto signifies, in the Indian language, a place of meet' ing. In 1703 , when sunreyed by the elder Bouohette, under the order»of Got. Simcoe, two Massasauga families were the only inhabitants it contained, and the harbor was a resort for numer- ous wild fowl, while its waters produced an abundance of fish." It was incorporated as a city in 1834, when it contained 0,254 inhabitants. In 1842 it had increased to 15,436; in 1852, to 30,703 ; and in 1866, to over 60,000. It is laid out with wide streets, crossing each other at right angles. The esplanade fronting the bay extends for a distance of two miles. The city is lighted with gas, and is well supplied with pure water by oomponies incorporated for those purposes. The principal public buildings are the Parliament House, the Uniyersity of Toronto, Trinity College, Upper Canada College, the Lunatic Asylum, the Custom House, the Post Office, St. James' Church (the English cathedral), and the Roman Cath- olic Cathedral; besides which there are a great number of cbnrches of different denominations. The Bank of Upper Canada has its head office here, and there are other banks and agencies ; alao several Fire and Marine Insurance Conipanies. This is the prmcipal office of the Canada Land Company, which has nearly two millions of acres of land for sale, situated in various parts of the Province. The hotels and public houses are numerous and well kept, making this city a desirable sojourn. Russell's Hotel, the Clarendon, the American, Sword's Hotel, and a new hotel on King Street, are the principal public houses. Toronto has become a great thoroughfare by means of steam- ers and railroads. A constant intercourse is thus kept up with the different ports on Lake Ontario, the Upper Lakes, and the St. Lawrence River. Steamers run from Toronto to Hamilton, St. Catherine's, Niagara, and Lewiston on the west and south ; to Rochester and Oswego on the east ; and to Cape Vincent, Kingston, Prescott, Montreal, etc., on the northeast. The Ontario f Simcoe and Huron Railroad ^ 04 miles in length, terminates at Collingwood, on Georgian Bay, connecting with the waters of Lake Huron. The Grand Trunk Railway ex« 21 'c'l 1*1 I' iil'ifi iiii m I It' Mi' Mil i , ,1 ■T! ''!!- 242 NIAGARA AND HAMILTON TO KINGSTON, ETC. tends northeast to Montreal and Quebec, while its western ter- mination will be at Port Sarnia, lying at the foot of Lake Hu- ron. The Toronto and Hamilton Railroad, a branch of the Great Western Railway of Canada, also terminates here, afifording altogether facilities of great benefit to Toronto and the vfhole of Canada. . The markets of Toronto are abundantly supplied with every description of provisions of the best quality, and at moderate prices. The climate is healthy and delightful during the sum- mer and fall months, being modified by lake breezes. " Trade of Toronto. — The value of imports into Toronto last year (1856) amounted to .£1,738,657, showing an increase on those of 1856 of £338,247. £822,836 were from Great Brit- ain, £14,797 from B. A. Colonies, £365,404 from the United States, and from other foreign countries £36,119. The duties collected on these imports were £195,159, showing an increase of £42.584. The exports during 1 856 were £551 ,383 (of which £176,703 was of flour, and £202,792 of wheat), showing an in- crease of £147,258 ** There were shipped during the year 1855 to American ports 601,524 bushels of wheat, and 118,807 barrels of flour; during 1866, 1,132,781 bushels wheat, and 97,985 barrels flour. To Canada ports 27,230 bushels wheat, and 32,370 barrels flour, in 1855 ; and 92,561 bushels wheat, and 73,824 barrels flour, in i%Q, ** The increase in the shipments of wheat, it will be seen, ate equal to 100 per oent. over those of last year, while the increase in flour, although not large, is respectable. Reducing the flour into wheat, at the rate of five bushels per barrel, we have the following for the two seasons ; Bushels. Value. 1866 2,084,007 at 7h. £729,402 1866 1,884,639 at 10s. 692.319 Increase 699,368 £37,083 ** The increase in value is not so great as the increase io quantity, owins to the fact that grain has sold at 25 per cent. lower in 1866 uian it did in 1855. ** The returns of the Custom House set down the value of agricultural produce sent to the United Stakes at £524,241 which is very correct; add, however, that sent to Canada ports — say £230,000~-makinff Uio total exports upward of £750,000." ^^ NIAGARA AND HAMILTON TO KINGSTON, ETC. 243 Port Whitby, 20 miles below Toronto, lies on the line of the Grand Trunk Railway, where is a steamboat landing, at which steamers land on their route from Toronto to Rochester, etc. OsHAWA, 33 miles below Toronto bj railroad route, is hand- 8omely situated a short distance from the lake shore and has a good harbor. It contains five churches, two hotels, 15 stores, two woolen factories, two tanneries and a brewery, besides other manufacturing establishments. Population, 2,500. BowMANviLLE, 43 miles from Toronto, lying a short distance from the lake, is connected with Darlington Harbor, where is a steamboat landing. Port Hope is a port of entry situated on the north shore of Lake Ontario, 62 miles from Toronto and 98 miles from King- ston by railroad route. This is a safe harbor, where steamers land daily from different ports on the lake, which together with sail Tcssels export large quantities oi produce. The village con- tains a court-house, six churches, four hotels, 40 stores ; two floaring-miUs, a woolen factory, two iron foundries, a machine- shop, two tanneries, two breweries, and six distilleries. The lumber trade carried on ac this port is very extensive and profitable. Population, 8,500. In addition to the Grand Trunk Railway, which runs through the town, a railroad runs from Port Hope to Beaverton, situated on Lake Simcoe, a distance of 41 miles, thus opening a fine section of Canada to emigration and trade. From Port Hope, or Cobourg, going toward Elingston by rail- road route, there is to be seen a fine section of Canada, passing through several flourishing towns, and near the Bay of Quinte. CoBouRO, handsomely situated on the north shore of Lake Ontario, nea^'ly opposite the mouth of Genesee River, where the lake attains its greatest width, is 70 miles from Toronto, 90 miles from Kingston, and 263 miles from Montreal by railroad route. It possesses a good harbor and is much frequented by steamers and sailing vessels, it being one of the regular landings ^ the Royal Mail Steamers, which pass and repass, daily, on their way up and down the lake. * ^' I, Ai IH 244 NIAGARA AND HAMILTON TO KINGSTON, ETC. The principal public buildings in Cobonrg are the conrt-honae and jail, and the Victoria College, which was established in 1842, by Act of the Provincial Legislature, with power to grant degrees in the arts and sciences ; there are also a number of fine church edifices. Here are the most extensiye cloth manufac- tories in the Proyince ; there are also iron, marble, and leather manufactories, with breweries and distilleries, six hotels and taverns, 40 or 50 stores of different kinds, and a number of mechanic shops. )pnlation, 6,000. Few places in Canada present a more beautiful appearance from the water than Cobourg— the landscape being extensive and varied by a most delightful background. The Cohourg and Peterboro* Railroad, 28 miles in length, commences at this place, which, together with the Grand Trunk Railway, tends greatly to benefit Cobourg and the towns lying on the rear, in the vicinity of Bice Lake, CoLBORNE, 14 miles below Cobourg, is situated on the line of the Grand Trunk Railway. Here is a good landing for vessels and a flourishing settlement. On leaving Cobov.rg for Kingston on the downward trip, the steamer usually runs out into the broad waters of Lake Ontario, Boon attaining their greatest width. Often during the prevalence of storms or high winds, the unacclimated voyager experiences sensations any thing but agreeable ; sea-sickness often prostra- ting alike the athletic male and the delicate female. This however, on board the larger class steamers is no serious objec- tion to journeying across Lake Ontario, it being considered the most safe navigation of any of the great lakes. JVicholas Point and Island are passed abont 40 miles from Cobourg. Next comes Wicked Point, and soon heaves in sight Point Peter and Light. This light is a conspicuous object for the mariner, who often, when off Prince Edward, the mainland, experiences the full force of easterly and westerly winds. Duck Island, attached to Canada is another noted object for the mariner, either descending or ascending Lake Ontario, NIAGARA AND HAMILTON TO KINGSTON, ETC. 245 88 this is the first important island to be met on descending from the head of the lake on the Canada side. Outer Drake and Inner Drake are two small islands situated inland toward Prince Edward's Bay. Amhebbt Island, a large and fcrtUe body of land, is next passed on the left, while Gage hland and Grand or Wolfe hland may be seen on the right.; these latter islands being dtnated at the foot of Lake Ontario, or mouth of the St. Law- rence Biyer, where commences the celebrated " Thousand Islands." The City of Kixgbton, capital of Frontenac Co., Canada, 160 miles from Toronto, and 173 miles from Montreal by railroad route, is very adyantageously situated on a beautiful harbor at the northeast extremity of Lake Ontario, and immediately aboye its outlet, " Cataraqui," or St. Lawrence Riyer, in N. lat. 44° 8', W. long. 76® 40' from Greenwich. *' The yiew of the city and Burrounding scenery in not surpassed by the approaches to any other city in America. A few miles aboye Kingston the waters of Lake Ontario are diyided by the first of the long series of islands so well known to Tourists as the " Thousand Islands i' of which Simcoe and Grand or Wolfe Islands, opposite the city, may be looked upon as strongholds, designed by nature to withstand the encroaches of the wayes of Ontario. On ap- proaching from the west, by water, the first object that attracts the traveler's attention is Fort Henry j with the nayal station of Fort Frederick at its base, and its attendant battlements, fortifications, towers, and redoubts. Fort Henry is a fayorite resort for visitors, and its eleyated position affords the best yiew that can be had of the city, lake, and surrounding country '* The principal public buildings are the City Hall, one of the finest and most substantial edifices in, Canada, and built of cut limestone at a cost of $92,000. It contains all the public offices of the city, including a spacious hall, capable of seating oyer 1 ,000 persons ; the court-house is a large stone building, which is about being remoyed, and another, more in accordance with the wants of the citizens, is to be erected on a ground more 26* 3"! I r 11 i:< Uih 246 NIAGARA AND HAMILTON TO KINGSTON, ETC. central, and its present site occupied bj a cnstom-house and post-office. Here is a Roman Catholic cathedral and seyeral fine church edifices, in all numbering sixteen. Qaeen*s College, under the direction of the Presbyterians, has a president and four professors ; the College of Regiopolis (Roman Catholic) has also a president and four professors; the General Hospital, Hotel Dieu, and a nunnery are also in the city, while two miles west is situated the Provincial Penitentiary. It has four bank- ing-houses and several insurance offices; three well-kept hotels, and about 100 store<^ of different kinds; besides several breweries, distilleries, tanneries, foundries, machine-shops, and a marine railway and ship-yard for the building of lake craft; on JVavy Bay, which lies between Point Frederick and Point Henry, is the naval dock-yard used for government purposes. Near the Penitentiary is a mineral spring of some celebrity, resembling in its component parts the Cheltenham spring of England ; an- other spring exists which is unusually strong, resembling in some respects the " Artesian Well" of St. Catherine's. It has been analyzed by Prof. Williamson, and found to contain valu- able medical properties. Kingston occupies the site of Fort Frontenac, an old French post, this being one of a chain of posts extending from Quebec to Mackinac. Here are ow^ed 20 steamerd and about 40 schooners, sailing to and from the port, besides numerous other Canadian and American steamers and sailing vessels. It being the outlet for the productions of the fertile Bay of Quinte, and the Rideau Canal, terminating at Kingston, makes it an im- portant and active mart of commerce. 1 1 : Ii, STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM KINGSTON TO BELLEVILLE AND POBT TEENTON, PASSING THEOUGH THE BAY OP QUINTE. Landings. ElNGSTOir Amherst Island. Bath MUes. 13 .... 5-18 Fredericksburg 10-28 Adolphustown 4-32 Stone Mills 8-85 PiCTON 5-40 Landings. Miles. Port Trenton Belletille 12 North Port 12-24 Indian Woods 8-^32 PiCTON 15-47 Stone Mills 5-62 Adolphustown 8-55 Indian Woods 15-55 Fredericksburg 4-59 North Port 8-63 Bath 10-69 Belleville 12-75 Amherst Island 5-74 Port Trenton 12-87 Kingston 18-87 Fare from Kingston to Picton $1 00 " " Belleville 1 50 Several steamers leave Kingston daily for Picton, Belleville, Port Trenton, and intermediate ports, during the season of nayigation, connecting at Belleville and Port Trenton with the Grand Trunk Railway, and line of stages running to Rice Lake, Peterboro', eto. On leaving the wnarf at Kingston the steamers run in a westerly direction, passing the Brothers ^ to Amherst Island, 13 miles. This is a large a.id fertile island, inhabited by an intelligent and prosperous class of citizens. Here commences the Bay of Quinte, a long, crooked, and picturesque body of water, into which empties the Napanee, Moira, and Trent rivers. Bath, 18 miles from Kingston, is situated on the mun shore, opposite Amherst Island. It contains about 600 inhabitants, with a fine back country. i;M' 248 KIKOSTOK TO BELLEVILLE, ETC. ill.! Fredericksburg, 28 miles from Kingston, is a settlement on the mainland. AroLPHUSTOwx, 32 miles from Kingston, is situated on the mainland, opposite Mahysburg, located on Prince Edward'j Island. Stone Mills, 85 miles from Kingston, is situated on Prince Edward's Island, near a most remarkable lake, elevated some 300 feet above the Bay of Quinte. It is called the Lxike of the Mountain^ being half a mile in length, and nearly as wide. It has no perceptible inlet, but discharges a large volume of water, which is used in propelling several mills of different kinds. PiCTON, 40 miles from Kingston, and 35 miles from Belle- ville by water, is the capital of Prince Edward Co., C. W., being handsomely situated. The Bay of Quinte, which here expands to a considerable width, is called Hallowell Bay. The village contains about 2,000 inhabitants ; a court-house and jail, one Episcopal, one Presbyterian, one Methodist, and one Roman Catholic church, two hotels, and several taverns, twelve stores, one steam flouring-mill, one large tannery, and an extensiye carriage manufactory. On leaving Picton, the steamer runs north to the landing called Indian Woods, when a westerly course is again pursued to the head of the bay, passing Morris, or HalVs Island, and several beautiful headlands. Here is another expansion of water called Hairs Bay, on Capt. Owen's (r. n.) Chart of Lake Ontario. Belleville, Hastings Co., C. W., is advantageously situated at the mouth of the river Moira, 75 miles by steamboat route, and only 47 miles by railroad from Kingston. This is a very thriving town, now containing about 8,000 inhabitants; the county buildings, a town hall and market building ; a Method- ist seminary, erected in 1855 ; one Episcopal, two Presbyterian, two Methodist, and one Roman Catholic church ; four hotels, and a number of taverns; 50 stores of different kinds, and most kinds of mechanic workshops. The Moira River affords a good water-power, here being situated one woolen factory, three "liiiiii'ii KINGSTON TO BELLEVILLE, ETC. 249 on, 18 a settlement flooring-mills, foar saw-mills, one paper-mill, one axe factory, one extensive distillery, three foundries and machine-shops, and a ship-yard. This is a great market for lumber, grain, and other kinds of produce. It is proposed to extend a railroad from Belleyille to Lake Simcoe, and thence to the Georgian Bay of Lake Huron. Port Trenton, 87 miles from Kingston by steamboat route, and 59 miles by railroad, is another growing place and port of entry, situated near the head of the Bay of Quinte, at the mouth of Trent River. It contains about 1,200 inhabitants ; one Epis- copal and one Methodist church ; three hotels, ten stores, one grist-mill, one extensive steam saw-mill, one large tannery, two distilleries, a foundry, machine-shop, and ship-yards. Steamers rnn from Port Trenton to Kingston, Prescott, Montreal, etc., trans-shipping a large amount of lumber and country produce. The River Trent, which is the outlet of Pemedashcoutayong, or Rice Lake, is a fine stream of water, and L in part navi- gable for steamers running into the lake. Immense quantities of wild rice are found in the low waters of this lake and its vi- cinity, which abound in game of different kinds, affording ample sport and profit to the huntsman. The principal inlet of Rice Lake is called Otonibee River ^ bemg the outlet of a succession of lakes, the most celebrated of which lies 823 feet above the ocean, and is called Balsam Lake ; the other bodies of water are called Sturgeon Lake, West Lake, and East Lake. From Balsam Lake to the Bay of Quinte there is a succession of falls of 588 feet descent. t. A,m LIST OF STEAMERS. AMERICAN 8TEAMEKS BUILT ON LAKE ONTARIO AND RIVEB ST. LAWRENCE SINCE THEIR INTRODUCTION IN 1818. Vn'H. N«m#. Tons. Wlieie huiU. Remark*. 181fi. .Ontario 282. .Sacket's Harbor— broken up. 181^ . . Sophia 75 . . Sacket's Harbor— broken up. 1 28 . . Martha Ogden. . . 150 . . Sacket's Harbor— lost in 1882. I'^O . . Brownvllle 150 . . Brownville— broken up. ISjJI . . Charles Carroll . . 100 . . Sacket's Harbor— broken up. " . , Paul Pry. 50 . . Ogdensburgh- broken up. 1 833 . . United States 450 . . Ogdensburgh - broken up. 1S88 . . Black Hawk .... 200 . . French Creek— broken up. 1884 . . Oswego 400 . . Oswego, N. Y.— broken up. 1886 , . Oneida 800 . . Oswego, N. Y.— broken up. 1S87 . . Telegraph 200 . . Dexter. N. Y.— laid up. 1B88. . John Marshall. . . 60. .Lake Erie -lost in 1844. 1889 . . St. Lawrence .... 450 . . Oswego, N. Y.— broken up. " . . Express. 150 . . Pultney ville — tow boat. 1841 . . George Clinton . . 100 . . Oswego, N. Y.— destroyed. " . . President 60 . . Oswego, N. Y.— lost in 1844. 1842. .Lady of the Lake 425. .Oswego, N. Y.— burnt in 1854. 1848. .Rochester 850. .Oswego, N. Y.— name changed. 1845 . . Niagara. 478 . . Clayton, N. Y.— Lewiston to Ogdensburgh. 1847. i Cataract 577. . Clayton. N. Y.— Lewiston to Ogdensburgh. 1848. .Bay State 1,098. .Clayton, N. Y.— Lewiston to Ogdensburgh. " . . Ontario 882 . . Clayton, N. Y.— Lewiston to Ogdensburgh. 1849 . . Northerner 905 . . Os wej,'o, N. Y.-— Lewiston to Ogdensburgh. 1868. .New York 1,200. .Clayton, N. Y.— Lewiston to Ogdensburgh. RUNNING ON THE ST. LA.WRENCE RIVER. Jenny Lind 800 . . Montreal, 0. E.— Ogdensburgh to Montreal Montreal. 800 . . Kingston, C. W.—Ogdensburgh to Montreal. British Queen 800. .Grand Island -Ogdensburgh to Montreal BRITISH STEAMERS BUILT ON LAKE ONTARIO AND THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE SINCE 1816. BnMt. Name. T'"m. Wliere built. Remarks. 1816 . . Frontenac (Ist) 500 Kingston, C. W.— broken up. 1817. .Charlotte 150. . . .Kingston. 1819..Dalhousie 850. . . .Prescott 1824. .Toronto 200. . . .Toronto. '' ..Queenston S50....Queenston. 1S25. .Canada (Ist) 250. . . .Toronto. " ..Niagara 400....Brockville. lS28..Alciope 450 .... Niagara. 1829. .Sir James Kempt 2 Kingston. 1830. . Great Britain 700 .. . Prescott, 1881 Iroquois 100.... Prescott. 1682. .John By 100. . . .Kingston. " . . William the Fourth 450 ... . Gananoque— tow boat. " ..Transit 850 . . . . Oakville—wrecked. 1888. .Britannia 200 ... . Kingston— broken up. ♦* .Cobourg 600....Cobourg. ** - .Kingston (Ist) 200.... Kingston. 1937.'! i< ik it t( 1841. .H LIST OF STKAMKR9. ETC. 251 AEIO AND RIVEB STION IN 1818. larkM. en up. en up. in 1882. P- :en up. I up. . up. 1 up. n up. nup. >. i. in up. t. 3yed. 11844. i in 1854. > changed. )ton to Ogdensburgh. )ton to Ogdensburgh. iton to Ogdensburgh. iton to Oirdensburgh. iton to Ogdensburgh. (ton to Ogdensburgh. B RIVER. msburgh to MontreaL msburgh to Montreal. sburgh to MontreaL TARIO AND THE 1816. RemaTkB. W.— broken up. flaiU. 198S \m. u it 1835." it 1937; ii isss! n 1840 ! tt it it tt t( mi." • u t( m. t« u i( a u 1848 ! Nmn*. Toil*. Broekville 850. .Com. Barrie 275. Enterprise 200 . Union 800. Traveller 8.50. .St. George 400 .air Robert Peel 850. .Gore.... 200 gueen Victoria 200 xperlment — 150 . . Henry Glld( rsleeve 250. .Ontario* 800 .Highlander (1st) 800. .Albion 200. .America (1st) 8''0. .Sovereign 475 .City of Toronto 600. .Prince Edward 2 0. . Frontenac (2d) 200 . .Princess Royal 600 . .Canada «2d) 460. . Despatch 200 . Prince of Wales 200 .Admiral 400. .Chief Justice Robinson . . 4(f .Welland(l8t) 80u. .Mohawk (iron) 150 . .Cherokee (gov. steamer) 700. .Eclipse 400. Wiierp hnMt. ReinarllB. . . BrockvlUe. . .Kingston— lost in 1842. . .F'ngston— broken up. . .Oakville— changed to barque. . .Niagara— tow w)at. . . Kingston laid up. . . BrockvlUe burnt In 188S. . .Niagara- runs on Lake Huron. . .Niagara— wrecked. , . .Niagara —broken up. , . .Kingston — tow boat . . Prescott— name changed. , . Coteau du Lac— broken up. ...BrockvlUe. , . .Niagara— tow boat , . .Niagara— broken up. , . .Niagara— tow boat . . . Kingston— lost In 1848. . . . Kingston— broken up. , . .Niagara- tow boat . . .Prescott— tow boat laid up. . .Kingston— name changed. . . . ngara— runs on 8t Lawrence. . . .,^1. igara— Cobourg to Oswego. . .. burnt in 1856. . . .Kingston— runs on Lake Erie. . .Kingston— sent to Halifax. . .Niagara— changed to schooner. BRITISH STEAMERS RUNN TO ON LAKE ONTARIO AND THE ST. LAWRENCE KIVER, 1856. Vnm«. Comm«H'<«»ni. Tonn. Peerless James Dick 400. Zimmerman D. Mlllory 500 Champion W. Wilson a50 Europa J. Murdock 600 May Flower D. Sinclair 800 Highlander (2d). ... . D. M^Brlde 250 . Maple Leaf R. Kerr 898 Welland (2d) W. Donaldson . . . — Ch. Just Robmson . .Jacob Young 815. Arabian Sclater 860. Kingston (2d) C. Hamilton 400 Magnet H. Twohy 600 Passport Harbottlo 400 Bowmanville C. Peny. 400 Monarch A. Sinclair 400 ProTlncial T. Kidd 800 Cora Linn Sutherland 160. Lady Elgin Nosworthy 200 Bay (T Quinte F. Carroll 250 Oily of the Bay W. R. Monroe . . .200 Sir Charles Napier.. G. F. Creighton.200 ™ton H De Witt 260. »^ Helen C. Chrysler 100 From Toronto. it it .Toronto. ti (t Cobourg.. Hamilton. To .Niagara. Oswego, N. Y. .RochesterNY. u PortDalhonsie. .Oswego, N. Y. .Prescott ii t( t( t( t( .Kingston i( i( ({ •Port Trenton. u u Montreal. Prescott . Port Trenton. Belleville. u u Cape Vincent .Montreal. ii ♦ Lord Sj/denham— running on the lower St Lawrence— waa the first •teamer that run down the Rapids in 1840. 252 LIST OF STEAMERS, BffO. Illlfllln;,:.! RUNNIirO ON THE 8T. LAWRENCE RIVER. Nnme. ConiinHndBrn. Tons. From To Banshee T. Howard 800..Ein(r8tou Montreal. NewEra. P. O. Chrysler... 2()0 ^* " Ottawa J. R. Kellcy 270 " ** St. Lawrence T. Muxwell. 200 " •♦ Note. — ^The Tonnage of British Steamers is rated about one third less than by the American measurement, owing to de* ducting the space for engine and machinery. The Steamers America and Canada, two large vessals of about 800 tons each, were recently built, and run from Hamll* ton to Brockville, in connection with the Great Western Rail- way of Canada ; but after the completion of the Grand Trunk Railway to Toronto they were found unprofitable, have since been condemned^ and their engines taken out and sold. CANADIAN VESSELS. From a list of Canadian steamers, propellers, and schooners trading on the Lakes and the St. Lawrence Riyer, recently com* piled, we gather the following facts : In commission, 47 steam* ers, 17 propellers, und 171 schooners ; the tonnage of which (British measurement) amounts to about 42,000 tons ; the esti- mated value being about $3,500,000. LIST OF BTEAMERSy ETC. 253 U3T OP BRITISH STEAMERS BUILT AND RUNNING ON THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER, BELOW MONTREAL SINGE 1810. s rated about one 9nt, owing to do* ) large vessalg of run from Hamll* sat Western Rail- the Grand Trunk le, have since been sold. ers, and schooners Lver, recently com' uission, 47 steam* tonnage of which 100 tons ; the esti- Hiillt Name. Turn. Wli«r« bullC Rem«rki. ISIO m 1814 Accommodation .... — Swiftsure — Malsham — 1S16 Car of Commerce. . . — IJlt.Lady Sherbrooke... — " .Caledonia — *' .Telegraph — lSl3.New Swlftsuro — 2uebec(l8t) — ontreal (Ist) — •♦ .Chambly — " .St. Lawrence (l8t).. — 1S22. La Prairie — 1825.Hercales 800 " .Edmund Henry — 18M. Waterloo 200 1329 . British America .... 891 . "^ .JohnMolson 800. ISM.Voyageur 800. " .Canada 850. ** .Canadian Eagle.... 260 « .Patriot 100 1838.Britannla. 185. 1884. John Bnll COO. lS86.Prinoess Victoria... 171. 1887.Charlevoix 200. 1889.Lady Colborne 250 . " .Lord Sydenham.... — . 1940.Queen 872. 1841.Montreal (2d) 878. 1842.North America 181. 1348.AUiance 102. " .St. Louis 190. " .Prince Albert (lron).188. 1945.Lord Elgin 153. " .Quebec (2d)....,... 400. « .Rowland Hill 250. 1846. John Munn 400. " .Richelieu 70. 184T.Iron Duke (iron). . .109. " .Ottawa 270. 1848. Jaques Cartier 78 . 1849. Crescent. 72. ISW.Oastor 76. " .St. Lawrence (2d)... 800. 1354.Montreal (8d) 800. " .J.M'Ker.zie 260 " .Saguenay 800 " .Princess Royal — " .Huron 860 " MuskRat 160 1855.0ultivateur 60 " .Advance — ISM.Napoleon 114 •* .Victoria. 114 Montreal— broken up. Montreal— broken up. Montreal— broken up. Montreal— broken up. Montreal— broken up. Montreal— broken up. Montreal— broken up. Montreal -broken up. Suebeo— broken up. ontreal — broken up. Montreal— broken up. Montreal— broken up. Montreal— broken up. Montreal— broken up. Montreal- broken up. La Prairie, C. £.— lost in the loe. Montreal— broken up. Montreal— broken up. Montreal— broken up. Montreal- broken up. Montreal— broken up. Montreal— broken up. Montreal — broken up. Montreal— burnt in 1889. Montreal— tow boat Montreal— broken up. Montreal— broken up. Lake Ontario— broken up. Sorel, 0. E.— laid up. Montreal— wrecked 1868. .Montreal— broken up. .Montreal — ^laid up. . Sorel, C. E.— laid up. , Montreal - Champluin Sc St Lawr*nce Ferry. .Lake Ontario— Montreal to Kingston. .Quebec- Montreal to Quebec. .Quebec— tow boat .Quebec— Montreal to Quebec. Sorel, 0. E.— M-^ntreal to Chambly. , Montreal— Ohamplain & St Lawr'nce Ferry. . Montreal. Sorel, C. £.— Montreal to Three Rivers. .Montreal— laid up. .Montreal— Montreal to Throe Rivers. .Quebec -Montreal to Quebec. .Quebec — Montreal to Quebec. .Sorel, C. E. — Quebec to Saguenay. Lake Ontario— Quebec to Saguenay. Sorel, C. E. .Montreal— Montreal to LongueiL .Montreal— Montreal to Berthier. .Quebec— Quebec to River du Loup. .Montreal— Montreal to Quebec .Montreal— Montreal to Quebc*. 22 m m ■'-lit m m si,H;i:,|!}i|| ^^ ^^fisr 27 880 CotU 1 1 2 1 2 1 7 8 8 £1,061,4J7 254 CANALS OF CANADA. CANALS OF CANADA, 6H01I7INO THEIR LENGTH, LOCKS, ETC. Welland Canal. Main Trunk, Port Colbome to Pt. Dalhouiie 28 Dunnville Feeder, junction to Dunnville 21 Broad Creek i3rancu 1| St. Lawrence. The Gallops 2 Point Iroquois 8 Rapid Plat 4 Farren's Point | Cornwall llj (Long Saut Rapids) Beauharnoib 11 4 (Cascade, Cedars, etc.) La Chine 8| Total, from L. Erie to Montreal 09 Add fall not requiring locks . Fall from Montreal to tide- water at Three Riy., C. E. £1,052,'jOI 5 64 82} 45 635 feet 17 18 £366,331 £481,786 Grand total 665 feet. Note. — Lake Huron is eleyated mne feet above Lake Erie, and Lake Superior is elevated 26 feet above Lake Huron- making a total elevation above tide->yater, or the ocean, of 600 1 feet, according to recent surveys. Chamblt Canal 11 J (River Richelieu) St. Ours Lock, do St. Anne's Lock. (Ottawa River) BiDBAir Canal. Kingston to Ottawa City . . 126 Ottawa Canal and Locks . 74 CmI. 9 1 1 87 5 467 £965,000 £117,647 ^ff TRIP FROM KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. 46 £481,786 The American steamers on lea^ng Kingston on their trip to Ogdensburgh run between Qrand Island and Howe bland, two large islands belonging to the British, when they enter the American Channel of the St. Lawreno and land at Clayton, situated at the mouth of French Cree):, while the Canadian steamers usually run the North or British Channel, passing Gananoquif 20 miles below Kingston. This is usually the first landing made by the British steamers in descending the river, unless they stop to take in wood at some of the numerous islands. Thu Thousand Inlands. — The remarkable group of islands in the River St. Lawrence called " The Thousand Islaadu" commences opposite the city of Kingston, and stretches down the rirer for between 40 and 60 miles, for which distance the St. Lawrence is between jix and twelve miles wide. They lie partly in Canada and partly within the bounds of the State of New York, the boundary line between the United States and Canada (liriding them into about equal parts. Fi ( >m an examination of Bayfield's chart of the St. Lawrence River, it appears that Wolfe or Grand Island, belonging to the British, is 18 miles long and from one to six miles wide. This is the largest island of the group, and contains much good land, being inhabited by a number of families. A canaJ is com- menced, extending across this island, to facilitate trade with Cape Vincent. Gage Island, lying west of Grand Island, is three miles long. On its southwest end may be seen a light-house as you approach Kingston from Toronto or Oswego. The American boats usually run between this island and Wolfe Island, through the Packet OT Bateau Channel. On Garden Island, opposite Kingston, is situated a large I lumber establishment, where may usually be s' n vessels taking in Imnber, destined for different ports. 250 KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. ;i'»i' I f ' Howe Island, also belonging to the British, is eight milei long, and from one to two miles wide, lying near the Canada shore. The usual steamboat route, on ascending and descending the river, is between this island and Wolfe Island, running through the Kingston or British Channel, a wide expanse of water, extending from near Kingston to French Creek, on the American side. The American Channel runs east of Wolfe or Grand Island, between that and Cape Vincent, where extends the boundary line between the two countries, this being considered the main channel. Carleton Island, belonging to the United States, is situ- ated nearly opposite Cape Vincent. It contains about 1,200 acres of excellent land, and is an important island, as it com- mands the American Channel of the St. Lawrence, and has tvo fine coves or harbors at the upp«i end, where are extensive lumber stations. Here was erected a fort by the British in 1777, and it became their principal military and naval depot for Lake Ontario during the Revolutionary War. Some yean afterward, the shipping and public stores were removed to Kingston, but the island was retained and occupied by British troops until 1812, when the guard was surprised and taken by a party of New York militia. The waters of the St. Lawrence among the islands here vary at diflferent seasons from three to four- feet in height, exposing some hundreds of islets at its lowest stage. The fish most abundant are the maskalonge, pickerel, black bass, pike, perch, rock bass, cat-fish, and eels. The maskalonge, pickerel, and black bass are taken by trolling ; the pike are taken in nets, and the perch, rock bass, etc , are taken by hook and line. On the islands are found deer, foxes, raccoons, rabbits, squir- rels, muskrats, and minks ; also partridges, quail, and wild ducks in abundance. Grindstone Island, five and a half miles long, belongs to i the United States. This is a large island, lying in the mid- KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. 257 16 of the river , a short distance below the mouth of French Creek. Here, it is said, the noted Bill Johnson has his fayorite abodC} either on the main island, or the small island in its im- mediate vicinity, called Johnson^a Island. Well's Island, another large and important island, eight or aine miles in length, is attached to the State of New York ; it lies mostly above the village of Alexandria, the boundary line running on its west side, where lies a beautiful body of water, called the " Lake of the Thousand Islands y* which is a favor- ite resort for the angler and sportsman. The Admiralty Islands are a group lying below Howe Island, and belong to the British. Here the Canadian Channel becomes a perfect labyrinth for a number of miles, and the navigation would be very dangerous were it not for the great depth of water and bold shores of the islets. The Fleet Group, or Navy Islands, commence opposite Grindstone Island, on the Canadian side of the river, and ex- tends for some distance below to opposite Well's Island. Here the boimdary line runs close to the latter island, giving most of the small islands to the British. The Old Friends are a small group immediately below Well's Island, belonging to the United States. The Indian Group also lie on the American side of the chan- nel, a few miles below the latter islands. The Amateur Islands lie in the middle ot the river, oppo- site Chippewa Creek, and are, in part, attached to the State of New York, and a part belong to Canada, the boundary lino running between them. Immediately below the latter ^elands the river contracts to I cne or two miles in width, and the Thousand Islands, of which I there are at least fourteen hundred, may be said to terminate, although a large collection of islands called Brock's Group, lying mostly on the Canada side, are passed a short distance below the village of Brockville, where the St. Lawrence River is about one mile wide, which width it averages for 80 or 40 |nile8j until you approach the rapids below Ogdensburgh, when 22* m '*i^J ^^ in '«>-;■ h I i ft U wU 1 1 IF'- m m .^' ^' f P' » i ft' 'i li^ i- • ^ ft* " ~! -rson, Crane & Go. Beauharnois, 24 miles above Montreal, lies at the foot of the Cascade- Rapids, where commences the Beauharnois Canal, 12 miles in length, overcoming altogether a descent of 82^ feet. Between Fond du Lac and Beauharnois, or the foot of the Cas- cade Rapids, is the most wild and romantic scenery that the St. Lawrence presents. Caughxawaga, ten miles above Montreal, is an Indian vil- lage, numbering several hundred inhabitants. Here commences the Montreal and Plattsburgh Railroad, 52 miles m length. It lA proposed to construct a ship canal from this place to the Riche- lieu River, the outlet of Lake Champlain, thus uniting the waters of the 3t. Lawrence and Hudson River, via Champlain Canal. La Chine, eight miles above Montreal, is situated at the foot of an expansion of the St. Lawrence, called Lake St. lA)uii, where enter the black waters of the Ottawa River, the St. Lawrence presenting a greenish hue, the diflference in the color of the waters being plainly visible for many miles below. The La Chine R.* pids, a few miles above Montreal, are the last rapids of importance that occur on the St. Lawrence. They ♦ It was here that Gen. Amherst's brigade of 800 men, on their way to attaolc Canada, then in possession of the French, were lost I At Montreal Uiey received the first intelligence of the invasion, by the dead bodies flOAting down the river past the town. KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. 265 are now considered the most dangerous nnd difficult of naviga- tion. Those rapids are obviated by the La Chine Canal, 8i^ miles in length, overcoming a descent of 44 J feet. Canals of a; large capacity now run 7round all the rapids, enabling steamers of a large size to ascend the river, although at a much less- speed than the downward trip. " The St. Lawrence is perhaps the only river in the world' possessing so great a variety of scenery and character, in the short distance of one hundred and eighty miles — from Kingston to Montreal. The voyage down this portion of the St. Law- rence in a steamer is one of the most exciting and interesting; that our country affords to the pleasure-seeking traveler. Starting at daylight from the good old city of Kingston, we are ■ at first enraptured by the lovely and fairy-like scenery of the? • Lake of the Tho::: and Isles,' and oft we wonder how it is that oar helmsman can guide us through the intricate path that lies« before him. Surely he will make some mistake, and we shalL lose our way, and our steamer wander for ages ere the track- less path be once more discovered. However,, we are wrong,., and long before the sun has set we have shot the * Long Saut,' and are passing through the calm and peaceful Lake St. Francis. Gently we glide along, and are lost in pleasing levei'ies, which, grace the scenes of our forenoon's travel. SudtJenly "v/e aret awakened from our dreams by a pitch, and then u quick j,erk. of our vessel, and rising to see .the cause, we find ourselves re- ceiving warning in the Coteau Rapids, of wh j,t wo may expect when we reach the Cedars, a few miles farther on. Now the* bell is rung for the engine to slow its speed, and glancing tow- ard the beam, we find it merely moving sufficient to keep head- way on the vessel ; now looking toward the wheelman's house, . we see four men standing by the wheel ; backward we turn our • gaze, and four more stand by the tiller , to assist those at the wheel in guiding our craft down the fearful leaps she is about to take. These preparations striking us with dread, we, wlio- are now making our first trip, involuntarily clutch the nearest, object for support, and checking our bruath, await the first plnnge. *Tis over. We are reeling to and fro, and dancing hither and thither among billows of enormous size, caused solely by the swiftness of the current. With difficulty we keep our feet while rushing down the tortuous channel, through which only we can be preserved from total wreck or certain death. Jfow turning to the right, to avoid a half-sunken rock, about whose summit the waves are ever dashing, we are apparently ^inming on an island situated immediately before us. On ! on we rush ! We must ground ! but no ; her head is easing off, and. 28 i: I i 4 At I * 266 RAPIDfl OP THK ST. LAWRENCE. h i^-r.!' if i i.. I' If i* 3 ■ as we fly past the island, a darins leap miffht land \is on itg shores ; and now again we are tossed and whirled about In a sea of foam ; we look back to scan the dangers passed, and se ; a raft far behind, struggling in the waves. While con tempi at' ng its dangers, we foreet our own, and the lines of Horace appear pe- culiarly applicable to the Indian who first intrusted his frail canoe to these terrific rapids : llli robur et oes triplex Circa pectus erat, qui Aragilem truoi Oommisit pelago ratera Primus .' " RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE-EXCITEMENT OF THE TRIP. Extractfrom a OorfMpotident of the DetroU Advertiser — 1856. '"Lbavixo Hamilton in the evening, on board one of the splendid steamers navigating Lake Ontario, running direct for the St. Lawrence River, a distance of about 180 miles, we liad a very pleasant night on the lake, and arrived at Cape Vincent, N. Y., at 7 next morning; discharged some freight, and pro- ceeded to Brockville, Canada, and thence toOgdensburgh, N. Y., where we arrived about noon ; passing from Cape Vincent to Ogdensburgh {via the FiXpress Line of steamers), we thread our winding way through among the Thousand Islands ; here is nor monotony, for the scenery is continually changing and ever beautiful. *♦ I have spoken of the route by which I came to Ogdens- burgh ; another very pleasant route is by way of the steamer from Detroit to Buffalo, thence to the Niagara Falls, taking the boat at Lewiston. By this route, passengers may see many points of interest., which they do not see in traveling by the direct route. '* On Wednesday, July 17th, we left Ogdensburgh on the steamer Montreal, Cape. J. Laflamme, ran across the St. Lawrence to Prescott — then headed down the river to Montreal. At six miles from Ogdensburgh we passed the first rapid (Gallop). This being the first of a series of rapids that we had to pass on our way to Montreal, we had the curiosity to notice the effect the scene had on the passengers. The first with whom we came in contact was a nervous old gentleman, and he was rushing from one side of the boat to the other, with fear and admiration depicted on his countenance, whib excitement had taken |K)ssession of his whole frame. ** Here is a grbup of sentimenlal young ladies ; so deeply are they absorbed in drinking in the sickly sentiments of the cheap, yellow-covered literature which they hold in their hands, that RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. 267 SMENT OF THE they know nothing of the wild and beautifal Boene through which we are passing. This is not the case with all, for many are standing or seated near the railing of the deck, looking calmly at the turbulent waters, and discoursing upon the cause of all this commotion ; others stand in the background, wishing, but fearing to look at the trembling of the waves. We are now post the first rapid, or the '* Gallops," and the water is now in a state of perfect calmness, and so are the passengers. '' The bocvt stops a few moments at Louisrille, 85 miles from Ogdensburgh. At this point the river is divided by an island, and here begins the Lmhi^ Santj a rapid of nine miles in length ; formcrl}'^ the boat^s passed down the south side, where the water runs with greater rapidity. The north side is called the * Lost Channel,* a name given to it by the French boatmen, as they supposed that if a boat drifted into it, it would certainly be lost. A channel has been found on the north side, and now' the steamers pass by it in preference to the south channel. " As we approach the rapid, the grand and lofty tumbling of the waters, as they break upon the projecting r- -oks, have an angry appearance, and look as if they were pi 3{raring to ol.- gulph us. We are standing upon the bow of the boat, and are fascinated by the view of tho scene, yet we involuntarily turn our eyes to the pilot-house, iL front of which, on an elevation, stands the captain, and at the wheel are four strong men. ^'either fear nor anxiety is to be perceived in either counte- nance ; but with their eyes fixed upon the landmarks, and their Btrong hands upon the wheel, they guide the ship through the narrow and crooked channel with unerring precision. The grand and picturesque scene has now brought all to their feet ; the novel-readers have dropped their books, and the excitement of reality now surpasses the excitement of their fiction. The nervous man is standing bareheaded against the pilot-house, with both Lands elevated, mouth open, and an exclamation upon the end of his tongue, as his tongue refuses to act ; but as the boat glides out of the last billow into smooth water, the ex- clamation drops from his lips, his mouth shuts with a sudden jerk ; and as he subsides into a calm he wipes the sweat from his brow, and is glad that he has seen and passed over that rapid. Only a small portion of the Long Saut is very rough, the rest of 't has much the appearance of Hell Gate, N. Y. " After pt^ssing the Long Saut, the boat stops a few moments at Cornwall on the Canada side. In a short time after leaving Cornwall, the river widens into a lake, which is called iMke St, FrancM. This lake is about forty miles in length. Having passed it, the boat stops a few moments at the -village of Uoteau du Lac. " Soon after leaving the Coteau, we pass the Coteau, Cedar, ?11 m ■.% ^^W^W IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1^12^ |2.5 us M^k m 2.0 1.8 1.25 III u 1.6 M 6" ► P^ Vi Photographic Sciences Corporation ^ «v SS5 :\ \ rv o\ ^ '^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. US80 (716) 872-4503 '9> o WJ. 7. ^ v^ '9) 208 RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. In i lii; ■ m Siplit'Rocky and Cascade Rnp'uU. The passage of these rapids is very exciting, particularly the Split- Rock ; here, as the boat is by the action of the water lifted above the rocks, and then dropped down among them, the waters covering and then re- ceding and leaving the rocks nearly bare, upon either side, looks fearfully dangerous ; the channel is narrow, the current rapid, and the boat is carried along at a 2 40 pace ; but the boat is strong, and a skillful pilot is at the helm, and the pas- sage is very quickly and safely made. " The river again widens, and is called Lake St. Louis. At the foot of this lake, on the south side, is the Indian village of Caughnawaga. Here a boat comes off from the village, and brings an Indian named Baptiste. He is a fine-looking man, apparently about sixty years of age; he comes on board to pilot the boat over the La Chine, which is the last but most dangerous of the rapids. No man but Baptiste has ever yet piloted a steamer over these rapids. As the boat moves onward to the rapids, all the passengers, even to the novel-readers, are anx- ious to get a good position in order to have a good view of the heaving, breaking, and laughing waters. As we enter the rapids, we appear to be running upon a small grass-covered rocky island. Indeed, as the bow of the boat is so near that it appears to be impossible to clear it, we look to see if the pilot is at the helm. Yes, there stands the captain at his post in front of the wheel-house, and the Indian pilot, with three other Strong men are at the wheel ; and as we look at the calm coun- tenance of the Indian, and see that his bright eye does not so much as wink, but is fixed steadily upon his beacon, whatever it may be, and that the wheelsmen are fully under his control, we feel that, with his skill, care, and knowledge of the way, we may banish fear from our thoughts. ' i^aptiste is a noble Indian ; he guides the boats among the islands and the rocks, over the rapids and through the intricate channels, as easily as a skillful horseman reins a high-spirited charger. As quick as thought the boat glides away from those rocks which it appeared impossible to avoid, but the pilot ap- parently is insensible to fear, though not to the responsibility that rests upon him. He is aware, and all are aware, that one false move and all is lost ; for the current is so swift, the seas run so high, and the boat is driven so rapidly, that one touch upon a rock would shiver her to atoms. Although the passage of the rapids appears to be dangerous, a sense of pleasure and excitement takes the place of fear. Just as we left the La Chins llapids, looking for the nervous man— there he stood, shaking, laughing, and exclaiming, ♦ that caps ths climax.* In about half an hour after leaving this last rapid, we enter the harbor of Montreal." ;e of these rapida here, as the boat I rocks, and then ng and then re- ipon either side, TOW, the current 10 pace ; but the elm, and the pas- fce St. Louis. At Indian village of the village, and fine-looking man, J on board to pilot at most dangerous 'er yet piloted a ves onward to the readers, are anx- i good view of the As we enter the lall grass-covered b is so near that it to see if the pilot ain at his post in ;, with three other at the calm coun- ht eye does not so beacon, whatever under his control, [ge of the way, we boats among the pugh the intricate IS a high-spirited away from those but the pilot ap- the responsibiUty •e aware, that one so swift, the seas lly, that one touch ^ough the passage le of pleasure and k left the La Chine he stood, shaking, liMAx.* In about enter the harbor RAILROAD ROUTE FROM MONTREAL TO TORONTO, ETC., VIA GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. As the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada has recently been opened from Montreal to Toronto, and from the latter place is in rapid progress of completion to Port Sarnia, situated at the foot of Lake Huron, we give the following description of the route from Montreal westward, ascending the noble St. Lawrence. The depot is situated at the termination of the Victoria Bridge, about one and a half miles from the center of Montreal, subjecting the traveler to a long ride from the hotels or steam- boat landing. On leaving the depot the La Chine Canal is soon passed, and then the Montreal and La Chine Railroad, the track of tht Grand Trunk Railway extending westerly across the fertile island of Montreal, passing in sight of Lake St. Louis, formed by the junction of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence riyers. St. Anne*s, 21 miles from Montreal, is a French-Canadian village, of some four or five hundred inhabitants. Here is a Roman Catholic church, and a number of picturesque edifices situated near the water's edge. The rapids, government lock for steamers, and the railroad bridge, together with the beautiful Ottawa and islands, altogether afford a magnificent view, al- most unrivaled for river scenery. A few miles westward may be seen the hills giving the name to the Lake of the Two Mountains. Isle Perot, about two miles in width, is next passed over by the upward train, and another branch of the Ottawa crossed, when the cars stop at the Vaudreuil Station, situated about half a mile below the- village of the same name. Here a lovely view is obtained of the* f!*i 270 MONTRE\L TO TORONTO, ETC. m-i II: K. ^^ ? '► J 111. i -Wji giiuli ' r L, u iA, r ^^H liiHi L iHjl III HI M^ ^9 mm J^"* 'Jh WmSi '' 'SB H . ^^ ffll btii^^ 1 '' ^IH i III 1 ml III ii'l J^H ^ffljii " i^iJ.^^^1 II Hi ; mPIHIIR]! ^n| III ' W' V^ '^ liiHrai 'p 1 m] f? f' MHi } * i li&' ^' ■M 3] ! ' ' nS^E 'jiHff^l Iff ^) ll f< ii|H 31 ' li^^H ^mUkl^^^^H i:P IH^H i^^ffilffl * ' -J'' fPPH Jv*i '^^B i| _;V^^^H m Blj^jff f"^B ^^ t I'viSH ^H H il H Ottawa, its islands, and the hills of the Lake of the Two Moun- tains in the distance. The railroad track, on leaving the Ottawa, runs through a fertile tract of country for several miles, the village of the Cedars being passed on the left, some two miles distant. CoTEAU Station is 37 miles from Montreal and one and a half miles from the landing; here is a scattered settlement of French Canadians, numbering about 600 inhabitants. Lancaster, 64 miles from Montreal, is situated on the north shore of Lake St. Francis, an expansion of the St. Law- rence River. Here is a population of about 700 inhabitants, mostly of Scotch descent. Cornwall, 68 miles from Montreal, is a thriving town, situ- ated at the foot of the Long Saut Rapids. It contains about 2,500 inhabitants. Here the trains usually meet, and the pas- sengers are furnished refreshments. This is also a convenient steamboat landing, where the Royal Mail Lino of steamers stop daily on their trips np and down the St. Lawrence. Dickinson's Landings 77 miles ; Aultsburg^ 84 mJles ; Wil- liamsburg, 92 miles ; Matilda, 99 miles, and Prescott Junction^ 112 miles, are soon reached and passed by the ascending train. The line of the Grand Trunk Railway from Vaudreuil to Brockville, a distance of 100 miles, runs through a level section of country, from a half to two miles distant from the St. Law- rence River, which is only seen occasionally from the passing train of cars. The town of Prescott, 113 miles from Montreal, and 60 miles from Kingston, is advantageously situated on the north bank of the St. Lawrence, opposite the village of Ogdensburgh. It con- tains a population of about 3,000 inhabitants. {See page 259.) The Ottawa and Prescott Railroad, 64 miles in length, ex- tends from Prescott to Ottawa City, intersecting the Grand Trunk Railway one and a half miles from the St. Lawrence River. On leaving Prescott the railroad runs through a level country to Kemptville, 23 miles, and thence to Ottawa City, a further distance of 30 miles. This is now the most speedy and MONTREAL TO TORONTO, KTO. 271 ifii !" the Two Moun- on leaving the ntry for several on the left, some al and one anil a tered settlement tiabitants. situated on the L of the St. Law- 700 inhabitants, riving town, situ- It contains about aeet, and the pas- also a convenient e of steamers stop rence. ff, 84 miles; fVil- ^rescott Junction, e ascending train, com Vaudreuil to igh a level section Tom the St. Law- from the passing treal, and 60 miles Ithe north bank of isburgh. It con- {See page 2b9.) ^les in length, ex- jcting the Grand I the St. Lawrence IS through a level to Ottawa City, le most speedy fM favorite route from Montreal to the Upper Ottawa, passengers* baggage being checked through, via Prescott. Brockville, 125 miles above Montreiil, and 208 miles below Toronto, is one of the most important stations on the line of the Grand Trunk Railway, it being a flourishing town of about 8,000 inhabitants. The Brockville and Ottawa Railroad will extend from this place to Pembroke, situated 100 miles above Ottawa City The railroad route from Brockville to Kingston, 48 miles, continues along the north shore of Lake Ontario to Cobourg, 90 miles farther, and thence to Toronto, 70 miles ; being a total distance of 333 miles For further information in regard to Kingston, Cobourg, Toronto, etc., see Trip from Hamilton and Toronto to Kings- ton, etc. 1* m '!^r,^r^ ;if iul t '•h m f» I I . I. ■Hf II '^1 MONTREAL. The City of Montreal,, the largest and chief seat of com- merce of British America, is favorably situated at the head of ship navigation on t'.ie left bank of the St. Lawrence River, here about two miles in width. It lies 170 miles above Quebec and 350 miles below Toronto, by water, in N. lat. 45° 30', and W. long. 73° 25' from Greenwich. The site, although not so commanding as Quebec, is in every other respect superior, l^ing at the foot of a romantic eminence from which it derives its name, called Moxmt Royal^ which hill rises in picturesque beauty, about one mile from the city, to the height of 650 feet, forming a prominent object in the picture from every point of view. The streets, although somewhat irregular, present a fine and clean appearance. Notre Dame Street, the Broadway of Montreal, is the principal promenade and seat of the fashion- able retail trade; it is about one mile in length and has many elegant stores, built of stone in the most durable manner. St. Paul Street, lying nearer the water, is mostly filled with whole- sale stores. Great St. James Street is a wide and beautiful avenue, where are located most of the banks and insurance offices; together with hotels and other substantial buildings. McGill Street is filled with stores and offices of diiFerent kinds, running across the streets enumerated above. Water Street, Commissioners* Street, and Common Street extend the entire length of the city, facing on the St. Lawrence River and La Chine Canal ; at times presenting a pleasing and lively appear- ance when the harbor and canal are filled with steamers and sail vessels of diflferent kinds. From whatever side the city is approached, either by water or land, the scene is one of mucli interest ; if from the St. Lawrence, Victoria Bridge and islands first attract attention ; then the splendid towers of the Cathedral, the tall spires of other churches, the elegant front of Bonsecours MONTREAL. 273 Market, the magnificent stone quay, and the long range of cut- stone buildings which front the river, form at once a tout en- semble which is unbqualed. The public buildings in Montreal are numerous; many of thom massiyo and costly edifices. The most noted is the Roman Catholic or French Cathedraly situated on Notre Dame Street, fronting the Place d'Armes ; it is built in the Gothic style of architecture, 255 feet in length by 134 in breadth ; it has six tow- ers, of which the throe belonging to the main front are 220 feet in height. The principal window is 64 feet in height and 82 in breadth. The interior has several desks or altars, and is capable of accommodating from 6 to 7,000 persons, who can disperse by several outlets. *' This church boasts the possession of a magnificent set of bells, one of which, weigh- ing thii'teen tons, is hung in the western tower, and is the largest bell in America. Under the church, the entire space is occupied by a cemetery — i^ which the more wealthy of the Roman Catholics are interred." The Seminary of St. Sulpice, adjoining the Cathedral, is a substantial stone building, at pres- ent only finished to the extent of half the proposed plan. In this building is transacted all the parochial business, and also the secular affairs connected with the very valuable property belonging to the priests of the seminary. There are several other Roman Catholic churches, mostly belonging to the order of St. Sulpice, to the members of which Montreal chiefly owed its foundation, and who still hold the seigniory of the island on which it stands. The Protestant churches, consisting of the Church of England or Episcopal, the Church of Scotland (Presbyterian), the Con- gregational, the Baptist, the Methodist, and other persuasions, are numerous ; Montreal being justly celebrated for its church edifices and church-going people. There are also a great num- ber of nunneries and charitable institutions in the city, both under Roman Catholic and Protestant management. The court- house and prison are new and substantial stone buildings, occu- pying the site of the former college of the Jesuits. The govern- B f ' 'i'i --J' ''«' ^■i^ iU-i 274 MONTREAL. ■! ' U H ^'k^: U I h f'i''^ 'r-^ ment house, barracks, ordnance office, six banks, and five market-houses, the principal of which is the Bonsecours Market, are among the remaining public buildings. Nelson's Monumcwit. a colossal statue of the hero ^ . the Nile, is placed on a Doric column, the pedestal of which lias bas-reliefs representing naval actions. McGill College is beautifully situated at the base of the mountain, and is richly endowed. Here are also a Baptist college and two Roman Catholic colleges, besides numerous other educational institutions. Montreal has a theater-royal, an exchange building, a penitentiary, a house of industry, a hospital, water works, gas works, a custom-house, a board of trade, scientific institutions, religious and benevolent institu- tions, and numerous well-kept hotels. The faTorable position of Montreal for trade and commerce, both foreign and domestic, makes it a great thoroughfare for men of business, as well as of the pleasure-seeking community. The facilities afforded by means of the St, Lawrence and Ot- tawa rivers, in connection with the Grand Trunk Railway and other railroads, Open a ready communication, not only with all parts of Canada, but with Portland, Me., Boston, and the city of New York ; the latter city being only 400 miles distant, and connected during the season of navigation by two popular lines of travel. The harbor^ though not large, is safe and conven- ient ; vessels drawing 15 feet may lie close to the quay, which is a most substantial stone structure of upward one mile in length. The La Chine Canal ^ nine miles long, admits steam- ers of a large size on their upward trips, they usually running the Rapids on their downward trips from the Lakes above and the Ottawa River. Besides steamers of a large class running to Quebec, steamships run regularly, during the season of na\'i- gation, between Montreal and Liverpool, making quick and rofitable voyages. The trade through Lake Champlain, liiostlv by means of the Champlain and St. Lawrence Railroad^ 44 miles in length, is immense — so much so es to require a ship canal from Caughanawa, or opposite Montrepl, to the navigable waters of the Richelieu River, the outlet of Lake Chpmplain. MONTR K A L. 275 Tbe Montreal and Plattshurgh Railroad^ 62 miles in length, umting with the La Chine Railroad, forms a direct line of travel to Plattsburgh, situated on the west shore of Lake Champlain. The Montreal and Ottawa Railroad, under construction, will add greatly to the advantage of Montreal. The Victoria Bridge, now erecting across the St. Lawrence River, immediately above the city, when completed, will form one of the wonders of the age ; it is to cross the river from Point St. Charles to thv^ south shore, a total length of 10,284 feet, or Lbout 50 yards less than two miles. It is to be built on the tubular principle, and will have a track for railroad cars in the center, while on the outside of the tube there will be a balcony on each side, with a footpath for passengers. The bridge will rest on 24 piors and two abutments of limestone masonry ; the center span being 330 feet long, and 00 feet high from summer water-le 'el, descending at either end at the rate of one in 130. It io in every respect to be built in the most substantial manner, and, when completed, will cost the enor- mous sum of £ 1 .250 ,000 sterling, or $0,250,000. The contents of the masonry will be 3,000,000 of cubic feet. The weight of iron in the tubes 8,000 tons. The following are the dimensions of tube through which the trains pass in the middle span, viz. : 22 feet high, 16 feet wide ; at the extreme ends, 19 feet high, 16 feet wide. This gigantic struc ture is in rapid progress of construction, ard, it is understood, will be completed in 1859, or early in 1 J60. The drives and inviting excursions about Montreal are nu- merous, and highly appreciated by visitors from more southern climes. The foremost stands the excursion around the mount- ain, which stands as a beacon to point out the true position of the city on nearing or departing from this romantic city. Other drives up or down the St. LawrcLce, or on almost any part of the fertile island of Montreal, are attended with pleasure and delightful emotions. " Besides these excursions, the tourist ^ find his time well repaid by a visit to the Saut-au-Recol- lect, which is a series of Rapids at the northern side of tho ^», jjf i Ml I 1 , 'k *t% If. I i f*l i^-n. it » i r 276 GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY island, on a branch of the Ottawa called La Riviere des Prairies. Here, besides the beauty of the scenery, he may see the rafts from the Ottawa making the descent — an exciting exploit botli to the spectators and hardy crews, though from the rarity of accidents we must conclude that the skill of the voyageurs has taught them to avoid any real danger." Population of Montreal — 1852. Males 27,580 Other countries 1,457 Females 30,129 Roman Catholics 41,466 Total population 57,716 Protestants 16,196 French Canadians 26,020 Number of houses 7,420 British Canadians 12,494 " families . . . 9,990 English, Irish, & Scotch 17,774 GRAND TSUNK RAILWAY OF CANADA. The Grand Trunk Railway, the greatest scheme of its kind in America, embraces in its ramifications the construction of a continuous line of railway from Trois Pistoles, C. E., about 160 miles below Quebec, on the southern side of the river St. Lawrence, the point at which a junction with the proposed Hal- ifax Railway is looked forward ta— and Port Sarnia, C. W., on Lake Huron, a distance of upward of 800 miles— also a branch line of 50 mile? in length, from Belleville to Peterborough, C. W. — and the leasing of the railroad then already built between Montreal and Portland, Me., so that the products of the west- ern points of the Province might be conveyed through Canada to the Atlantic seaboard, without break of guage or bulk. The total length of unbroken railway communication which will thus be obtained, when the St. Lawrence River is spanned by the Victoria Bridge, a structure unequaled in the history of engineering, either in size or in massive proportions — is up- ward of 1 ,100 miles. The original capital of the company Tvas £9,500,000, but this being found insuflBcient, it has been de- termined to increase this amount to £12,000,000 sterling, or $60,000,000. Of this sum the Province has an interest in the undertaking, in the shape of a guaranty, to an amount of up- ward of £3,000,000 sterUng, or $15,000,000. Of the works proposed, however^ it was found necessary, from several causes. GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. 277 to place in abeyance the prosecution of three different sections of tlie work, viz., the distance between St. Thomas to Trois Pis- toles, 100 miles ; from Bellev' le to Peterborough, 60 miles; and from St. Mary's to Sarnia, 68 miles. But these sections will doubtless ere long be proceeded with ; in the first case, becauf^o the Lower Provinces in all probability, assisted by the Imperial Government, will complete their railway communication to Trois Pistoles, in order to connect it with the Canadian railway jystera ; and in the latter two cases, simply because the traffic of the country will very speedily demand the construction of these lines. With these curtailments, and they are but temporary, the Grand Trunk Railway is now composed of the following sec- tions, viz. : Montreal to Portland 202 miles. Richmond to Port Levi, opposite Quebec, St. Thomas. 137 " Montreal to Toronto 333 ** Toronto to Stratford 88 ♦♦ Making a total mileage of 850 miles. The works throughout the whole of his great length of line have been pronounced by competent authorities, both En- glish and American, to be altogether unequaled by any rail- way on this continent, and reflect much credit, not only on the engineer of the company, but also on the several agents of the contractors. On an average, there is a station to every six I miles, two men to every three miles, and a locomotive to every four miles. Apart from the through travel between the East and the I West, which must be very large, the juncti(Jns between other railways and the Grand Trunk Railway throughout the Prov- ince are very numerous, and will provide a heavy trafi&c, both of passengers and freight. $ h lii -h r ..» .* i''*j . I. t - . '■jTSPni n. II d TRIP FROM MONTREAL TO OTTAWA CITY AND TUE UPPER OTTAWA RIVEIL Tourists who design to visit the Ottawa River, and view ito varied and beautiful scenery, should leave Montreal by steamer, or by the Grand Trunk Railway y in the morning for St. Anne's, 21 miles ; there taking a steamer for Ottawa City, 90 miles far- ther ; or if desired, continue the railroad route to Prescott, 1 13 miles from Montreal, and proceed by Ottawa and Prescott Rail- road. The La Chine Railroad also conveys passengers to La Chine, nine miles, from whence steamers depart daily for Ot- tawa City. At St. Annk's, 14 miles above La Chine, the steamer passes through a lock 45 feet wide and 180 feet long. Here is a suc- cession of rapids in the river, and several small islands. The village is handsomely situated on the southwest end of the isl- and of Montreal, and is the place where the poet Moore located the scene of his admired Canadian Boat Song* CANADIAN BOAT SONG. BY THOMAS MOORB. Faintly as tolls the evening chime, Our voices keep tune and our oars keep time ; Soon as the woods on shore look dim, WeUl sing at St. Anne^s our ))artlng hymn. Row, brothers, row, the stream runs fast, The Rapids are near and the daylighrs past. Why should we yet our sail unfViTl ? There is not a breatli the blue wave to curl ; But when the wind blows off the shore, Oh ! sweetly we'll rest ou • weary oar. Blow, breezes, blow, \he stream runs fast, The Rapids are near and the daylight's past. ♦ The voyageurSy in passing the Rapids of St. Anne, were formerly obliged to take out a part, if not the whole, of their lading, owing to the small depth of water nere afforded. It is from this village that the Ca- nadians consider they take their departure on ascending the Ottawa, as it possesses the last church on the island of Montreal, which ia dedicated to the tutelar saint of toyageurs. CITY AND THE MONTREAL TO OTTAWA CITY. 279 Ottawa's tiflo ! thin tromhlinff moon Shall RPO US float ovor thy «nr)yf»'i» noon. Saint of thin Rreen Isle ! htar our prayers, Oh ! f^rant us cool heavens an! Will The KiDEAu Falls (the Curtain), so called from their re- semblance to drapery, is formed by the waters of the Rideau Riyer precipitating itself into the Ottawa, a short distance be- low the c'ty of Ottawa. This is a beautiful fall of 30 feet, and attracts much notice, being seen to advantage from the stec^mer ascending the 0>*^^tawa. Chaudiere Falls (the Boiling Po/), which are second only to those of Niagara in grandeur and magnificence, are on the Ottawa, immediately above the city. These falls, in connection witL the surrounding scenery, render this section of Canada very attractive tO tourists seeking health or pleasure. The City of Ottavjta, C. W., formerly called By town ^ occu- pies a most romantic position on the southwest side of Ottawa River, being 120 miles distant from Montreal, and 54 from Prescott by railway. It is in a naturally strong situation, and could be easily rendered almost impregnable. The city is divided into two parts, like Quebec, known as the Upper and Lower Towns, which are about half a mile apart. The Bideau Canal commences here, anr' is spanned by a handsome stone bridge, forming part of the btreet which connects the two por- tions of the town, and it is also connected with Hull, on the Lower Canada side of the river, by a fine suspension bridge. The city is justly celebrated as being a great mart for lum- ber, in which the Ottawa country abounds. In the neighbor- hood is found beautiful pale-gray limestone, "f which material many of the edifices are constructed, giving a handsome and solid i»]t;;;>'^arance to the place ; the streets have been laid out with great regularity, and are very wide. Barrack Hill, a commanding site, is retained by the government, which, if judiciously improved, the inhabitants might have beautiful grounds for purposes of health and recreation. Here are situ- ated the county buildings, ten churches of different denomina- tions, four or five banking-houses, several well-kept hotels, together with numerous stores and extensive grist-mills, saw* mills, and other manufacturing establishments. The Ottawa and Prescott Railway, 64 miles in length, te> UPPER OTTAWA RIVER. 281 jninates at Prescott, situated on the St. Lawrence River, di- rectly opposite Ogdensburgh. No other road of its length in America possesses greater advantages than this railway, if rightly turned to account, pointing as it does to the State and city of New York. Stages and Steamboats run daily from Ottawa City to dif- ferent places on the river above the ci y, affording romantic excursions during the summer and autumn months. The Union Line of steamers runs from Aylmer, nine miles above Ottawa, to Joachin, 150 miles above the city. The pro- prietors have three iron steamers, with fifty-horse-power engines : one running from Aylmer to Chatts; one from Amprior to Portage Du Fort, and one from Portage I>u Fort to Joachin. These boats are not sufficient to do the business that is now offered ; and it is a rem&rkable fact, that while goods are car- ried in winter on sleighs over this route for 50 cents per 100 pounds, the steamboat charge is $1 25. ' -'Mi ■ ■. ■it TILLAGES ON THE UPPER OTTAWA EIVER. Aylmer, nine miles above the city on the Lower Canada side, is situated at the outlet of Chaudiere Lake, through which the river flows, has about 1,000 inhabitants, and is the shire town of Ottawa County. Is at the foot of steamboat navigation above the city. There is a good McAdam road from the city to Aylmer. FiTZROY and Chatts — these villages are connected, and situ- ated 32 miles above the city, with about 600 inhabitants ; the river at this place has a fall of 52J feet. Amprior, 40 miles above the city. This place has sprung into existence within the last two years ; has now 60 dwellings, and 40 more under contract. A railroad is now under contract from Ottawa City to Amprior, to be completed in 1858, and I understand that this is also the point where the Brockville and Pembroke Railroad comes to the river. The river has a fall here of twelve feet. To hear the descriptions which are given 24* ^ m k i 282 UPPER OTTAWA RIVER. of this section of the country, one would think that it was the Garden of Eden, and that it was soon to be reclaimed. Those I engaged in building up Amprior, predict that it is soon to become the Chicago of Canada. Portage Du Fort is 60 miles above Ottawa City. The river here has a fall of twelve feet, affording good water-power. Pembroke, 100 miles above the city, is the next place on the river, and is a point of great importance. The Brockville and Ottawa Railroad^ when completed, will terminate at this place, and afford great facilities to the settle- ments on the Upper Ottawa River and its tributaries. ***'M OTTAWA RIYER. Copied from the Canadian Tourist. " This river, and the vast fertile territory which it drains, has hitherto been, in a great measure, abandoned to the oper- ations of the lumberman, and the comparatively few farmers who have followed his steps ; but, latterly, its capabilities as an agricultural country have gradually attracted a greater degree of attention, which the proposal of connecting its waters with Lake Huron and the Far West will greatly increase. Of the magnitude of the river, the riches of its banks, and the beauty of the scenery, we can not better speak than by mak- ing use of the excellent Report lately made by a Committee of the Canadian House of Assembly on Railways : " ' The length of the course of the Ottawa River is about 780 miles. From its source it bends in a southwest course, and after receiving several tributaries from the height of land sep- arating its waters from the Hudson Bay, it enters Lake Temis- camiiig. From its entrance into this lake downward the course of the Ottawa has been surveyed, and is well known. " ' At the head of the lake the Blanche River falls in, coming about ninety miles from the north. Thirty-four miles farther down the lake it receives the Montreal River, coming one hun- dred and twenty miles from the northwest. Six miles lower down on the east, or Lower Canada bank, it receives the Kee- pawa-sippi, a large river which has its origin in a lake of great size, hitherto but partially explored, and known as Lake Kce- pawa. This lake is connected with another chain of irregularly shaped lakes, from one of which proceeds the River dn Moine, which enters the Ottawa about a hun clrc 1 miles below the mouth of the Keepawa-sippi. " ' From the Long Sant at the foot of Lake Temiscaraing, two hundred and thirty-three miles above the city of Ottawa, and three hundred and sixty miles from the mouth of the Ot- tawa, down to Deux Joachim Rapids, at the head of the Deep River, thsit is, for eighty-nine miles, the Ottawa, with the ex- ception of seventeen miles below the Long Saut, and some other intervals, is not at present navigable, except for canoes. Be- sides other tributaries in the interval, at a hundred and ninety- seven miles from Bytown, now called Ottawa, it receives on the west Bide the Mattawan, which is the highway for canoes going to Lake Huron by Lake Nippissing. From the Mattawan the I '':>^U:. 284 OTTAWA RIVER. p,|i>r- T '■•'* III!' II •'J Ottawa flows east by sonth to the head of Deep River Reach, nine miles above which it receives the River du Moine from tlie north. " ' From the head of Deep River, as this part of the Ottawa is called, to the foot of Upper Allumettes Lake, two miles below the village of Pembroke, is an uninterrupted reach of navigable water, forty-three miles in length. The general direction of the river in this part is southeast. The mountains along the north side of Deep River are upward of a thousand feet iu height, and the many wooded islands of Allumettes Lake ren- der the scenery of this part of the Ottawa magnificent and ex- ceedingly picturesque — far surpassing the celebrated Lake of the Thousand Islands on the St. Lawrence. ** • Passing the short rapid of Allumettes, and turning north- ward round the lower end of Allumettes Island, which is four- teen miles long and eight at its greatest width, and turning down southeast through Coulonge Lake, and passing behind the nearly similar islands of Calumet to the head of Calumet Falls, the Ottawa presents, with the exception of one slight rapid, a reach of fifty miles of navigable water. The mountains on the north side of Coulonge Lake, which rise apparently to the height of fifteen hundrc i feet, add a degree of grandeur to the scenery, which is in other respects beautiful and varied. In the Upper Allumettes Lake, a hundred and fifteen miles from Ottawa, the river receives from the west the Petawawee, one of its largest tributaries. This river is a hundred and forty miles in length, and drains an area of two thousand two hundred square miles. At Pembroke, nine miles lower down on the same side, an inferior stream, the Indian River, also empties itself into the Ottawa. " * At the head of Lake Coulonge the Ottawa receives from the north the Black River, a hundred and thirty miles in length, draining an area of eleven hundred and twenty miles, and nine miles lower on the same side the river Coulonge, which is prob- ably a hundred and sixty miles in length, with a valley of eight- een hundred square miles. *' ' From the head of the Calumet Falls to Portage du Fort, the head of the steamboat navigation, a distance of eight miles, are impassable rapids. Fifty miles above the city, the Ottawa receives on the west the Bonnechere, a hundred and ten miles in length, draining an area of nine hundred and eighty miles. Eleven miles lower it receives the Madawaska, one of its great feeders, a river two hundred and ten miles in length, and drain- ing four thousand one hundred square miles. it « Thirt;'-seven miles above Ottawa there is an interrupiion in the navigation, caused by three miles of rapids and falls, to pass which a railroad has been made. At the foot of the rap- i OTTAWA RIVER. 285 ids the Ottawa divides among islands into numerous channels, presenting a most imposing array of separate falls. " • Six miles above Ottawa begin the rapids terminating in the Ottawa Chaudihre Falls, which, inferior in impressive grandeur to the Falls of Niagara, are, perhaps, more permanently inter- esting, as presenting greater variety. The greatest height of Chaudiere Falls is about forty feet. Arrayed in every imagin- able variety of form — in vast, dark masses, in graceful cas- cades, or in tumbling spray — they have been well described as a hundred rivers struggling for a passage. Not the least inter- esting feature which they present is the Lost Chaudiere, where a body of water, greater in volume than the Thames at London, is quietly sucked down, and disappears under ground. " ' At the city of Ottawa the river receives the Rideau from the west, running a course of a hundred and sixteen miles, and draining an area of thirteen hundred and fifty square miles.' "The city of Ottawa is, perhaps, situated more pictur- esquely than any other in North America, with the exception of Quebec. The view from the Barrack Hill — embracing, as it does, in one coup iTceil, the magnificent Falls of the Chaudiere, with its clouds of snowy spray, generally spanned by a bril- liant rainbow ; the Suspension Bridge uniting Upper and Lower Canada ; the river above the great Falls, studded with pretty . ¥ooded islands, and the distant purple mountains, which divide the waters of the Gatineau from those of the Ottawa — is one of the most beautiful in the world. " The city, now containing about fourteen thousand inhabit- ants, sprung up, about thirty years ago, from a collection of shanties inhabited by the laborers and artificers employed bj the Royal Engineers to construct the Rideau Canal. This canal (terminating at Kingston) was intended by the govern- ment of England to be a means of communication between the Lower St. Lawrence and the Lake?, in case the communication on the front should be interrupted. The canal was designed by Colonel By, of the Royal Engineers, and the present city of Ottawa was named Bytown in memory of its founder, until, about two years ago, the inhabitants petitioned the Provincial Parliament to change the name. " The canal is a splendid specimen of engineering skill, and the masonry of the numerous locks is generally admired for its finish and solidity. Eight of these locks rise one above another directly in the center of the city, the canal being crossed by a handsome stone bridge just above them. The canal, in fact, divides the city into two parts, the Upper and Lower. A large pirt of the Upper Town is comprised in what is called the Bar- rack Hill, on which is a small barracks for troops, and some storehouses, the property of the Imperial Government; there ''■■■ n I ;i i m r s M if'' 4 4*il\ -2, : \S li ^ ~- 286 OTTAWA RIVEK. ,i ^^ f t 'i ■ t^x'i is here a parade-ground of several acres, and the summit of the hill, from which is to be seen the beautiful view which we spoke of before, is one of the finest promenades in the world. A few very simple fortifications on . this hill would make the c iy of Ottava almost as impregnable as Quebec. *' Within the last few years a small hamlet has sprung cp near the Suspension Bridge, in consequence of the abundam water-power existing ther8> of which several enterprising per- sons have availed themselves to erect saw- mills. There is also here a very large iron foundry and machine manufactory. " Here also are the slides, erected by government, for the passage of timber, in order to avoid the great fall, over which the pieces of timber used to be precipitated singly, to be again collected below at a great trouble and loss. Throughout the whole summer, from mornijig to night, the * cribs' of timber, each manned by three or four hardy raftsmen, may be seen darting down these slides ; while from the lofty summit of the Barrack Hill the huge rafts, gay with bright streamers floating from their many masts, may be seen on the smooth, dark bosom of the river, the golden-colored timber flashing in the gun- beams. *' In the Lower ToTm are the principal m3rcantile establish- ments, the court-house and jail, the Roman Catholic Cathedral, the Bishop's Palace ; a nuncery, to wbich the General Hospital is attached, and a Roman Catholic college ; the Protestant hos- pital, the Terminus of the Prescott and Ottawa Railway, and the steamboat wharf. Among the objects well worth seeing m this part of the town is a steam saw-mill, of great size, recently erected by an enterprising citizen. In Central Ottawa are the town-hall, the post-office, telegraph office and news-room, to which are attached a library and museum, the latter contain- ing some very interesting geological specimens. In Upper Ot- tawa are the Episcopal church and the office at which all thej business connected with timber cut on the lands of the Crown is transacted. The banks of Upper Canada, British North America, Montreal, and Quebec have agencies in the city. '* During the summer months steamers run dally on the river between Ottawa and Montreal, and between Ottawa and Kings- ton, by the way of Rideau Canal. A railway train loaves t*'e| city every day for Prescott, where those passengers who inten(i| to go to Montreal change into the cars of the Grand Trunk line,j and so reach Montreal by railway. *' Travelers who wish to proceed farther up the river can takel a carriage or omnibus for Aylmer, a pretty village about nine miles from Ottawa, between which place and Aylmer there is an excellent turnpike road, where they will find a steamer which takes them to the Chatts ; from this there is a railway OTTAWA RIVER. 287 about two miles; they then proceed by another steamer to Portage du Fort ; here wagons are used for a short distance. and another 8te»\mer takes them to Pembroke, and again an- other from that point to Deux Joachim, where for the present navigation ceases for any thing larger than a canoe A rail- road is under construction, extending from Pembroke to Brock- ville, situated on the St. Lawrence Rivar. " Immediately below the city of Ottawa the river Rideau dis- charges into the Ottawa, falling gently over the edge of a lime- stone precipice like a beautifully transparent ' curtain^ of water, from which resemblance its name has been derived ; the fall is divided into two portions by a small rocky island, which adds greatly to the picturesqueness of the scene. The Rideau Falls are best seen from a boat. " A mile lower it receives from the north its greatest tribu- tary, the Gatincau, which, with a course probably of four hun- dred and twenty miles, drains an area of twelve thousand square miles. For about two hundred miles the upper course of this river is in the unknown northern country. At the farthest point surveyed, two hundred and seventeen miles from its mouth, the Gatineau is still a noble stream, a thousand feet wide, diminished in depth, but not in width. "Eighteen miles lower down the Riviere au Li^vre enters from the north, after ri-tming a course of two hundred and sixty miles in length, and draining an area of four thousand one hundred miles. Fifteen miles below it the Ottawa receives the North and South Nation rivers on cither side, the former ninety-five and the latter a hundred miles in length. Twenty- two miles farther the river Rouge, ninety miles long, enters from the north. Twenty-one miles lower the Riviere du Nord, a hundred and sixty miles in length, comes in on the same side, and lastly, just above its mouth, it receives the river Assump- tion, which has a course of a hundred and thirty miles. " From Ottawa the river is navigable to Grenville, a distance of fifty-eight miles, where the rapids that occur for twelve miles are avoided by a succession of canals. Twenty-three miles lower, at one of the mouths of the Ottawa, a single lock, to avoid a slight rapid (St. Anne's Rapid), gives a passage into Lake St. Louis, an expansion of the St. Lawrence above Montreal. " The remaining half of the Ottawa's waters find their way to the St. Lawrence, by passing in two channels behind the jlsland of Montreal and the Isle Jesus, in a course of thirty- ne miles. They are interrupted with rapids, still it is by one jof them that all the Ottawa lumber passes to market. At jBottt de risle, therefore, the Ottawa is finally merged in the \ Lawrence, a hundred and thirty miles b.Iow from the city f Ottawa. Il i ■i ?i^ -1 ;.'- -^n ■C*,: « / 288 OTTAWA KIVER. •j Mi ;.. " The most prominent characteristic of the Ottawa is its great volume. Even above the town, where it has to receive tributaries equal to the Hudson, the Shannon, the Thames, the Tweed, fhe Spey, and the Clyde, it displays, when unconfined, a width of half a mile of strong, boiling rapid ; and when at the highest, while the north waters are passing, the volume, by calculated approximation, is fully equal to vbat passing Niagara — that is, double the common volume of the Ganges. ** Taking a bird's-eye view of the valley of the Ottawa, we see spread out before us a country equal to eight times the State of Vermont, or ten times that of Massachusetts, with its great artery, the Ottawa, curving through it, resembling the Rhine in length of course, and the Danube in magnitude. *• This immense region overlies a variety of geological form- ations, and presents all their characteristic features, from the level uniform surface of the Silurian system, which prevails along a great extent of the Ottawa, to the rugged and roman- tic ridges in the metamorphio and primitive formations, which stretch far away to the north and the northwest. '* As far as our knowledge of the country extends, we find the greater part of it covered with a luxuriant growth of red and white pine timber, making the most valuable forests in the world, abundantly intersected with large rivers, fitted to con- vey the timber to market when manufactured. "The remaining portion of it, if not so valuably wooded, presents a very extensive and advantageous field for settlement, /part from the numerous townships already surveyed and partly settled, and the large tracts of ^ood land interspersed through- out the timber country, the grefit region on the upper course of the western tributaries of the Ottawa, behind the red pine country, exceeds the State of New Hampshire in extent, vith an equal climate and superior soil. It is generally % beautiful undulating country, wooded with a rich growth of maple, beech, birch, elm, etc., and watered with lakes and streams affording numerous mill-site' and abounding in fish. Flanking on the one side the lumbering country, which presents an excellent market for produce, and adjoining Lake Hiiron on the other, the situation, though comparatively inland, is highly advan- tageous. Jn the (uversity of resources, the Ottawa coimtr/ al^ve described presents unusual attractions alike to agricul- tural and commercial enterprise.' }> ^ \ the Ottawa is its e it has to receive >n, the Thames, the s, vrhen unconfined, apid ; and when at assing, the volume, al to v.hat passing e of the Ganges, of the Ottawa, we ight times the State letta, with its great lembling the Rhine nitude. of geological form- features, from the em, which prevails rugged and roman- e formations, which west. ry extends, we find 'iant growth of red uable forests in the [vers, fitted to con- Bd. ► valuably wooded, field for settlement, lurveycd and partly ierspersed through- Q the upper course 3hind the red pine ire in extent, ^ith nerally % beautiful rth of maple, beech, streams affording Flanking on the $sents an excellent iron on the other, is Idghly advan- e Ottawa country s alike to agricul- LAKE GEORGE, OR HORICON This romantic sheet of water, whose beauties are almost in- describable, lies mostly in the county af Warren, N. Y., 27 miles north of Saratoga Springs. It is justly celebrated for its varied and beautiful scenery, and for the transparency and purity of its waters. It is 36 miles long, north and south, and from two to three miles wide * and is elevated 243 feet above the tide-water of the Hudson, although its waters flow north into Lake Champlain. It is surrounded by high and pictur- esque hills, sometimes rising to mountain height, and dotted with numerous islands, said to count as many as there are days in the year ; some are of considerable size, and cultivated ; while others are only a barren rock, rising majestically out of tht surrounding waters. The wild and romantic scenery of this lake is nowhere surpassed. The bed of the lake is a handsome yellowish sand, and the water is so pure and transparent as to render the bottom visible from 30 to 40 feet. Here the delicious sahnon-trout, that weigh from five to twenty pounds, are. found in great numbers, and of the finest quality. Silver trout, brook trout, pike, pickerel, perch, and several other kinds of fresh water fiph, are also abundant. Travelers on the tour from the Springs to Canada should not fail to vicit Lake George ; by the French called Lac Sacramt ^t, on account of the purity of its waters. The steamboat ** Minnehaha" runs through the lake, from Caldwell to the landing near the village of Ticonderoga, whence stages run to Fort Ticonderoga, at the steamboat land- ing on Lake Champlain ; where steam passage boats, on their route from Whitehall to Burlington and Rouse's Point, touch Slide, and Anthony's r on the east side, are .nding, just behind an le spot where the un- idea, and derives it^ and fell in that ex- e scene of several im- nerally known as the le head of the lake in ron Dieskau, and the 1 attacked the English id slain. The losa of B French about 700.' le vicinity of this lake jT in 1757. A British i at Fort Edward and r the reduction of the ach sent a large array their defense. Gen. ig from Maj. Putnam eturned immediately ent Col. Monroe, with the lake. The day red at the fort, laid The garrison, con- with much bravery succor from Fort Ed- bliged on the 9th of capitulation, all the ntcalm, and the gar- and baggage, and to not serving against nonths. >ut of the fort than . d, which it is impos- ■ss of the articles of rench army fell upon I., page 8. the defenseless soldiers, plundering and murdering all that foil in their way. The French officers were idle spectators of this bloody scene ; nor could all the entreaties of Monroe persuade them to furnish the promised escort. On that fatal day about 1,500 of the English were either murdered by the savages or carried by them into captivity never to return. *' The day following these horrid transactions. Major Putnam was dispatched from Fort Edward with his rangers to watch the motions of the enemy. He reached Lake George just after tiie rear of the enemy had left the shore, and the scene which was presented he describes as awful indeed. 'The fort was entirely destroyed; the barracks, out-houses, and buildings were a heap of ruins — the cannon, stores, boats, and vessels were all carried away. The fires were still burning— the smoke and stench offensive and suffocating Innumerable f ragmen is of human skulls, and bones and carcasses half consumed, were still frying and broiling in the decaying fires. Dead bodies mangled with scalping-knives and tomahawks, in all the wan- tonness of Indian barbarity, were everywhere to be seen. More than 100 women, butchered and shockingly mangled, lay upon the ground still weltering in their gore. Devastation, barbar- ity, and horror everywhere appeared ; and the spectacle pre- sented was too diabolical and awful either to be endured or described.' " STEAMER ON LAKE GEORGE. A NEW steamboat is being built on Lake George in the place of the John Jay, burned in July last. She is 145 feet long and 26 feet wide. The boiler and furnace are placed in com- partments, incased in iron, entirely fire-proof, no expense being spared in order to make her a beautiful and safe passenger boat. Her name, " Minne-ha-ha," a romantic one, is selected with great appropriateness from Longfellow's Hiawatha : " "With him dwelt his dark-eyed daughter, Wayward as the Minnehaha ; With her moods of shade and sunshine, Eyes that Arv. wned and smiled alternate, Feet as rapid as tide river, Tresses flowing like the water, And as musical a laughter ; And he named her from the river, From the waterfall he named her 'Uinne-hii''h&— laughing water." 292 FALLS OF TICONDEROGA. • ) The Falls or Ticoivderooa, situated on the outlet of Lake George, arc well worthy the attention of tourists. Hero are two important cascades within the distance of two or three miles, surrounded by mountain scenery of great historic in tercst. Tlie Upper Falla^ near the Tillage of Alexandria, are formed by a succession of descents of upward of 200 feet witiiin the distance of a mile, affording water-power unsurpassed by any other locality in the State for safety and a steady flow of water, the stream not being subject to freshets. The Lowtr Fally in the village of Ticonderoga, has a perpendicular fall of 80 feet, being much used for hydraulic purposes. The ruins of old Fort THconderogOy two miles below this place, are situ- ated on a point of land at the entrance of the outlet of Lake George into Lake Champlain, standing on an eminence of about 60 feet, overlooking the lake ; the ruins are plainly visible from the water, presenting a conspicuous and interesting object. About 1,800 yards southwest stands Mount Defiance ^ rising 7^0 feet above the lake, overlooking and commanding the site of Fort Ticonderoga. A public house, for the accommodation of visitors, stands near the steamboat landinc;. DISTANCES FROM CALDWELL TO ALBANY, tia SARATOGA SPRINGS. CALDWELL Glenn's Falls, Stage. . 9 Morcau Station " . . 6 Saratoga Springs. .15 Ballston Spa 7 Mechanicsville 13 Junction Albany R.R. 6 Waterford 2 Cohoes 1 Troy 3 ALBANY 6 ALBANY 9 Troy 6 14 Cohoes 3 29 Waterford...., 1 36 Junction Albany R.R. 2 49 Mechanicsville 6 55 Ballston Spa 13 57 * Saratoga Springs. . 7 58 Moreau Station 15 61 Glenn's Falls, Stage. . 5 67 CALDWELL " ..9 6 9 10 12 18 31 32 53 58 67 the outlet of Lake ;ouri8ts. Hero arc e of two or three great historic in of Alexandria, are i of 200 feet within er unsurpassed by id a steady flow of ishets. The L indenta- tions and bays of singular beauty, only need to be seen to be admired. Its waters are well stored with salmon, salmon trout, sturgeon, pickerel, and other fish. " Lake Champlain was discovered by Samuel Champlain in July, 1609, having founded the colony of Quebec in 1608; in June, 1809, he, with a number of French and Indians, pro- ceeded in a shallop up the St. Lawrence and river Iroquois, now Richelieu, till stopped by the Chambly Rapids. From this place he determined to proceed in Indian canoes, but the Frenchmen manifested great reluctance, and only two would be p3rsuaded to accompany him. With these and about sixty of the natives, h /ing transported their canoes by the rapids on the 2d of July, and, proceeding southward, on the 4th of July e entered the lake ♦* Champlain and his party proceeded along the west shore, advancing by water during the night and retiring into the forests by day, to avoid being discovered by the Iroquois, be- tween whom and the Canada Indian '. a war was then carried on. As they drew near the enemy's country they proceeded with great caution, but on the 29th of July, in the evening, they fell in with a large war party of the Iroquois. Both parties drew up to the shore, and the night was spent in preparation for battle, and in singino and taunting each other. In the morning an engagement took place, but the Frenchmen bein^ armed with muskets, it was decided in favor of Champlain and his party, a large number of the Iroquois being slain and seve- ral taken prisoners. With these they returned immediately to their shallop. Champlain says that this battle was fought in lat. 48° and some minutes, and the place is supposed to have been on the west shore of Lake George. The present name of Lake Champlain was given by its discoverer during his first visit, as he informs us in his journal. He was- not drowned in its waters, as has been sometimes said, but died at Quebec in 1635. One of the Indian names of this lake was Petawa-Bouque, signifying alternate land and water, in allu- sion to the numerous islands and projecting points of land. Another is said to have been Caniaderi- Gtmrunte, signifyi ig the mouth or door of the country. If so, it was very appropriate, as it forms the gate- way between the country on the St. Law- '-^'^ LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 295 rence and that on the Hudson. In more recent times the In- dians called it Corlear, in honor of a Dutchman who saved a war party of Canada Indians from being destroyed by the Mo- hawks in 1665. " The first steamboat built on this lake commenced running in 1809. The line boats have always been favorably known to travelers either for business or pleasure, for the manner in which they have been managed— their neat and orderly ap- pearance—obliging and attentivj ofl&cers and efficient crews. At present there are daily lines to and from Whitehall and Rouse's Point, stopping at Ticonderoga, Burlington, Plattsburgh, and intermediate places, connecting with the various railroads -also numerous ferry boats, propellers, and tow boats, besides more than 300 sloops, canal boats, barges, etc." Champlain Canal connects the waters of the Hudson with Lake Champlain. it is 64 miles long, 40 feet wide at the top and 28 at the bottom, with a navigable /e^c/er at Sandy Hill 11 miles long. It has 21 locks, 14 by 90 feet. Rise from the Hudson, 134 feet, fall to the lake, 54; was begun in 1816, finished in 1819, and cost $1 ,079,872. The route of this canal is interest- j r^ on account of its passing through a section of country ren- dered memorable by important military operations. It passes in part along the line of Burgoyne's advance from Lake Cham- plain— near the scene of his principal battles — and of his final surrender. It passes near Fort INIiller — Fort Edward — the spot where Miss M'Crea was murdered — Fort Anne — the tree to which Gen. Putnam was boUnd in 1757, etc. I Height op thb Pri^tcit ai Moun- tain Pbak8 in V ERMONT— Green Mountain Banqe. Nv.MK. Altitude above S'ja. Chin, or North Peak, Mans- flel/d Mountain 4,279 ft. Camel's Hump, Huntington 4,188 " Shrewsbury Mountain 4,086 " Kose, or Boutti Pealc, Mang- fleld Mountain 8,988 " Killington Pealc, Slierburne 8,924 •* Equinox Mountain, Man- chester 8,706 " 4«:utney ML, Windsor. . . . 8,820 " Surface of Lake Champlain, '* Lake George ** Laki Ontario Altitude of the Principal Moun- tains Northern New York — Adirondack Group. Namk. Mount Marcy, Mount Mcln- tire . . Mount McMar- tln Dial Mountain Wliiteface Mt. Altitude hIiovi' 8pn. 5,407 ft. Essex i County. I 5,188 (( 6,000 " 4,900 « 4 855 " Mount 8eward,Franlvlin Co. 4,600 " Mount Lyon, Clinton Co. . . 4,000 " above tide 90 feet. t4 « 248 ** u 4( .' i i .* i i .* i i 284 ** rf i;" . , ! •:4i 296 LIST OF STEAMERS, ETC. LIST OF STEAMERS BUILT AND RUNNING ON LAKE CHAM- t»LAIN SINCE 1809. Bul't. Nnme T'>n'«. Wh« e buHt. Reniarkfi. 1809. .Vermont* 167. .Burlington, Vt.— aunk Oct., 1315. 1815. .Phoenix (Ist) 836. . Vergeunes, Vt— burnt Sept., 1819. 1817. .Champlaln 128. . Vergennes, Vt— burnt 1S17. 1819 . . Congress 209 . . Vergennes, Vt — broken up. 1820.. Phoenix (2d).. 846.. Vergennes, Vt— broken up. 1825 . . Gen. Greene I5i5 . . Burlington, Vt— broken up. 1827. . Franklin 812. .St Albans, Vt— broken up. " . . Washington 1 84 . . Essex, N. Y. —broken up. 1828 . . M'Donough 188 . . St Albans, Vt.— lost 1841. 1832 . . Winooski 159 . . Burlington, Vt.— broken up. " . . Water-Witch 107 . . Fort Cassin, Vt. — changed to schooner. 1887 . . Burlington 482 . . Shelburne, Vt— broken up. 1888. .Whitehall 461. .Whitehall, N. Y.-broken up. 1842 . . Saranac 831 . . Shelburne, Vt.— broken up. " ..Bouquet 81.. Essex, N. Y. 1S45. .Francis Saltus 878. .Whitehall, N. Y. 1847 . . United States 666 . . Shelburne, Vt " . . Ethan Allen 500 Shelburne, Vt 1851 . .Boston 219 .. Shelburne, Vt 1852. .America 681 . .Whitehall, N. Y. 1858. .Canada 718. .Whitehall, N. Y. 1856 . . Montreal 416 . . Shelburne, Vt. " . . Oliver Bascom 860 . . WhitehaU, N. Y. STEAMERS BUILT ON LAKE GEORGE. Bnilt. Name. Where built. Remarka. 1817. .Caldwell, (Ist) Ticonderoga— burnt 1821. 1824. .Mountaineer. Caldwell- condemned 1887. 1888 . . CaldweU, (2d) Ticonderoga— broken up. 1852. .John Jay burnt, July, 1856. 1857 . . Min-ne-ha-ha. Caldwell. AMERICAN STEAMERS RUNNING ON LAKE CHAMPLAIN, 1951. (day and night line.) Name. Tons. From and To. America, Capt. Flagg .... 681 Whitehall to Burlington and Rouse's Point. Canada, Capt. Davis 718 " «* " United States 566 »* « " Capt. Wm. Anderson. Francis Saltus 373 Whitehall to Plattsburgh. Capt. L. Chamberlin. Montreal, Capt. Mayo . . . 418 Burlington to Plattsburgh. Bouquet, Capt. Barker ... 81 Plattsburgh to St. Albans,Vt. Boston, Capt. Hinkley 219 Burlington to Rouse's Point. * Built and run by Capt. John Winanta. Fare $7 from Whitehall to | Bt. John's, Can. STEAMBOAT AND RAILROAD ROUTES. 297 ON LAKE CHAM. FREIGHT BOATS. Ethan Allen, Capt. Wriffht, 500 Whitehall to St. John's, Can. Oliver Bascom, " Eldridge, SCO " «* James H. Hooker. Propeller •♦ " : CHAMPLAIN, 1S57. rom and To. to Burlington and se's Point. to Plattsburgh. n to Plattsburgh. ghtoSt.Albans,Vt. n to Rouse's Point. $T from Whiteball to j STEAMBOAT AND EAILROAD ROUTE FROM WHITEHALL TO BURLINGTON, ROUSE'S POINT, AND MONTREAL. Landings, etc. I Whitehall, N. Y. . . Benson, Vt Orwell, " Ticonderoga, N. Y. . . . Laral)ee's Point, Vt. . . Crown Point, N. Y Port Henry, ** Westport, Essex, (( u i( Miles. Stations, etc. Montreal, Can. . . . 13 St. John's, «... 7-20 Rouse's Point, N. Y.. 4-24 Plattsburgh, " . 1-25 Port Kent, 8-33 Burlington, Vt. 8-41 Essex, N.Y 14-108 9-50 Westport," 12-120 Port Henry, N. Y 9-129 8-137 8-146 Miles. 21 23-44 25-69 15-84 10-94 12-62 Burlington, Vt 14-76 Crown Point, Port Kent, N. Y 10-86 Larabee's Point, Vt. (( Plattsburgh, " 15-101 Ticonderoga, N. Y 1-146 hwtes Point, N. Y. . 25-126 OrweU, Vt 4-150 St. John's, Can 23-149 Benson, « 7-157 MoiTTREAL, " 21-170 Whitehall, N. Y. . . 13-170 I Usual Time from Whitehall to Rouse's Point, 9 hours. « " Fare $3 00 Rouse's Point tr Montreal, 2 hours. « «* Through Fare 4 50 u (( RAILROAD ROUTE FROM WHITEHALL TO ALBANY. Stations. Miles. Total Miles. WHITEHALL Fort Anne 11 11 Fort Edward 12 23 Moreau Station 1 24 Saratoga Springs - 15 39 Ballston Spa 7 40 Mechanicsyille 13 69 Waterford .' 8 67 Troy 4 71 ALBANY. 6 77 Usual Time, 8} hours. Fare, $2 38. 298 WHITEHALL. t'^-- ^i The village of Whitehall, 77 miles north of Albany by railroad route, is situated in a narrow valley at the head of Lake Champlain, and at the junction of the Champlain Canal with the lake, being a secure and important naTal station in time of war. The village was incorporated in 1820, and now contains four churches, three hotels, a bank, 30 stores | of different kinds, several storehouses, and extensive forwarding houses ; two ship-yards and two dry docks, where are built and repaired steamboats, lake craft, and canal boats ; machine-shope, brick yards, tanneries and other manufacturing establishments. Population about 4,000. Besides the daily line of steamers running from Whitehall to I Burlington, Plattsburgh, and Rouse's Point on the north, the | Saratoga and Whitehall Railroad extends 40 miles south, to j Saratoga Springs, and a branch railroad extends east to Rut- land, Yt., connecting with the Rutland and Burlington Rail* road, thus forming speedy facilities for reaching New York and | Boston by railroad routes. In the immediate vicinity of Whitehall are high and rugged | hills, while to the south lies the valley formed by Wood Creek, heading near the banks of the Hudson. Through this valley, I during the old French War of 1759, and the Revolutionary War of 1776, the French, the British, and the American armies each marshaled their forces preparatory to attack, or on their retreat. This place was formerly called SkeenesboroughA The Indian name was said to be Kah-sha-quah-na^ or place\ where dip fish. Here, during the Revolutionary War, for a time, was the rendezvous of the American forces ; this point and Lake George being the only two accessible approaches from Canada, by the invading loe, under Gen. Burgoyne. Here, too, j during the old French War, Gen. Putnam distinguished him- self, both in battle and in an adroit escape from Indian foes, hav- 1 ing, it is said, plunged into the lake about one mile north of Skeenesborough, and swam his horse to the opposite shore, thus eluding their pursuit. Peaceful pursuits and pleasure nowj render this place a great thoroughfare. lortli of Albany by valley at the head 1 of the Champlain id important naval icorporated in 1820, Is, a bank, 30 stores jxtensive forwarding where are built and 3ats ; machine-shope, | iring establishments. ig from Whitehall to it on the north, the I is 40 miles south, to jxtends east to Rut- id Burlington Rail- ching New York and | ire high and rugged ed by Wood Creek, through this valley, i } Revolutionary War le American armies attack, or 0)i their id SkeenesboroughA i-quah-na, or plan ationary War, for a i forces; this point ble approaches from rgoyne. Here, too, distinguished him-j om Indian foes,haT- one mile north of opposite shore, thus and pleasure now TRIP FROM WHITEHALL TO BURLINGTON AND ROUSE'S POINT. This excursion, during the summer months, is the most grand Ipd interesting of any of similar extent in North America — passing through a romantic lake, with high mountains in the distance, and past scenes rendered classic by their associations with events that occurred during the old French and Revolu- |tionary wars. On leaving the new steamboat wharf, about one mile north of I Whitehall, an interest is at once excited in the breast of all intelligent travelers. The hills rise abruptly to the height of several hundred feet, while the lake or outlet of Wood Creek is hemmed in for several miles by rocky cliffs. The Elbow y the \Karrows, the Pulpit, and other names, are given to the most {interesting points. Bgnson, 13 miles below Whitehall, is the first steamboat I landing. Here the waters begin to widen to about half a mile I in width. Orwell, seven miles farther, is another steamboat landing. I Here the lake widens from one to two miles. TicoNDEROGA, 24 milcs north of Whitehall, and four miles I east of the foot of Lake George, is a sacred and romantic spot, where is a convenient steamboat landing and a good hotel, bo- I ades the celebrated ruins of the old Fort. Fort Ticonderoga. — The ruins of this old fortification are lotuated in the town of Ticonderoga, Essex Co., on the west side of Lake Champlain, at the entrance of the outlet of Lake George, 1 24 miles north of Whitehall. This place was originally called Ghe-ort'der-o-^a by the Indians, signifying, in their language, I flo»e, and applied to the falls in the outlet of Lake George ; its uune was afterward slightly changed by the French into its 300 WHITBMALL TO ROUSE S POINT. present appellation, which it has borne ever since it was first occupied and fortified by them in 1756. The fort was at first named Fort Carillon , but afterward called Fort Tieonderoga by the English and Americans. This fortification cost the French government a large sum of money, and was considered very strong, both by nature and art. It stands on a point of land elevated 70 feet above Lake Champlain, being surrounded on three sides by water, and on the northwest it was defended by strong breastworks. Mou?it Independence , on the opposite or east side of the lake, was also fortified, and some of the in- trenchments are still visible, elevated 110 feet above the lake, and overlooking the peninsula of Ticonderoga. After several sanguinary conflicts in this vicinity, and "inder the very walls of the fort, in which several thousand lives were sacrificed, this important military position was tamely evacuated by the French in 1769, and given np to the British army under Lord Amherst; who retained possession until it was taken, by surprise by Col. Ethan Allen, of the American army, in 1775. He is said to have entered the fort through a subterraneous passage from the south, extending to the lake ; surprising the commandant in his bed before he was aware of his danger, and in his characteristic way required the officer to surrender. He asked to whom? •* Why, to Jehovah and the Continental Congress^ to be sure," was his laconic reply. In 1777, tho British army, under Gen. Burgoyne, on their route to Saratoga, appeared in array before Ticonderoga, when Gen. St. Clair, the American commander, was forced to evacuate ; the enemy having erected a battery on Mount Defiance, in the rear, elevated 720 feet above the lake, which overlooked and completely commanded this fortification, which was before considered almost impregnable ; it then re- mained in the hands of the British until' the close of the war. Since that time it has been suffered to go to decay, and nov presents one of the most interesting ruins of the kind in this country, and is annually visited by a great number of travelers. Niear by, delightfully situated on the lake shore, is a well-kept hxA^ ioT the accommodation of visitors. Here steamboats, dur* WHITEHALL TO ROUSE 8 POINT. 801 j iog the season of navigation, daily land and receive passengers on their route from Whitehall to Rouse's Point. The following account of the defeat of tue British at TicoNDEROGA, IN 1769, Is taken from the **Memoir8 of an American Lady** written by Mi s. Grant : " The army, under the command of Gen. Abercrombie, crossed lake George on the 5th of July, and landed without opposition, iliey proceeded in four columns to Ticonderoga, and displayed a spectacle unprecedented in the New World. An army of six- teen thousand men, regulars and provincials, with a train of artillery, and all the necessary provisions for an active cam- paign or regular siege, followed by a fleet of batteaux, pontons, etc. They set out wrong, however, by not having Indian guides, who are alone to be depended on in such a place. In a short time the columns fell in upon each other, and occasioned much confusion. The advance guard of the French, which had re- tired before them, were equally bewildered, and falling in with j each other in this confusion, a skirmish ensued, in which the French lost above three hundred men, and the English, though I gaccessful in this first rencontre, lost as much as it was possible 1 to lose, in one man — for here it was that the valiint Lord Howe, tlie second in command, fell mortally wounded. He was shot I from behind a tree, probably by some Indian ; and the whole army were inconsolable for a loss they too well knew to be I irreparable. " The fort is in a situation of peculiar natural strength ; it es on a little peninsula, with Lake Champlain on one side, and I a narrow opening communicating with Lake George on the I ether. This garrison, which was well prepared for attack, and I almost impregnable from situation, was defended by between four and five thousand men. An engineer sent to reconnoiter was of opinion that it might be attacked without waiting for the artillery. The fatal resolution was taken without consulting I those who were best qualified to judge. " I can not enter into the dreadful detail of what followed. I Certainly never was infatuation equal to this. The forty-second raiment was then in the height of deserved reputation, and commanded by a veteran of great experience and military skill. Col. Gordon Graham, who had the first point of attack assigned to him. He was wounded at the first onset, and of the sur- TiTors, every ofiEicer retired wounded off the field. Of the fifty- fifth regiment, ten officers were killed, including all the field h^oers. No human beings could show more determined cour- tge than this brave army did — standing four hours under a I constant discharge of cannon and musketry from barricades, on 26 M ,02 WHITBHALL TO ROUSE 8 POINT. which it was impossible for them to make the least impression. Gen. Abercrombie saw the fruitless waste of blood that wag every hour increasing, and ordered a retreat, which was very precipitate ; so much so, that they crossed the lake, and re- gained their camp on the other side, the same night. Two thousand men were killed, wounded, or taken in this disastrous engagement; which was, however, quickly succeeded by the dear-bought conquest of Quebec, where fell both the rival com- manders, Wolfe and Montcal.m." Mount Bejiancey about one mile southwest of Port Ticon- deroga, on the south side of the outlet to Lake George, is a bold promontory, elevated about 800 feet al30ve the level of the lake. While the ascent from the water or eastern face is quite steep and difficult, the approach from the west is easy. It was from this quarter that Gen. Burgoyne, in 1777, ascended this moun- tain and planted several pieces of artillery— obliging the Amer- icans to evacuate the fort, wliich was before considered almost impregnable. The top of this eminence gives a grand view of Lake Champlain and the surrounding country, and is well worthy of a visit, which can easily be accomplished on foot. The village of Ticonderoga, two miles west of Lake Cham- plain, is situated on the outlet of Lake George, where is a thriT- ing settlement, surrounded by picturesque mountain scenery. One or two miles farther west, on the road to Lake George, is situated another village, called Upper Ticonderoga t or Jllcx- afidria. Here is a most beautiful fall of water, affording im- mense hydraulic power, a small part of which is only used for propelling machinery. The steamboat landing, at the foot of Lake George, is about one mile west of the latter place, the whole distance to Lake Champlain being four miles. The dis- tance to Caldwell, at the head of Lake George, is 86 miles. Larabee's Point, Yt., one mile from the landing at Fort Ticonderoga, on the opposite side of the lake, is a regular steam- boat landing. Here the lake expands from one to two miles in width. Chimney Point, nine miles north of Ticonderoga, is also another landing on the east side of the lake, although not now frequented by the steamers. WHITEHALL TO ROUSK 8 POINT. 303 <* Here the French commenced their first settlement upon the lake in 1731. When Crown Point fell ,into the hands of the Enelish, in 1759, this settlement was abandoned, and the re- mains of the chimneys, which they had erected in their huts, probably suggested to the first English settlers the name of Chimney Point, The stone windmill ^ mentioned by Kalm as being one or two musket-shots to the east of Fort Frederick, and as having five or six small cannon mounted in it in 1749, and which has been supposed to have ^iven name to this point, was most probably at the place opposite, marked by the ruins of what is called Grenadier's Battery" Crown Point, ten miles north of Ticonderoga, on the west Bide*of Lake Champlain, presents an intc ;}sting appearance from the water. The ruins of the old fortifications are situated on a neck of land running into the lake ; the embankments are Tisible, and indicate an immense amount of labor expended to render this point invulnerable to an approaching foe, whether by land or water ; yet it was taken by surprise at the com- mencement of the Revolutionary struggle. "The French first established themselves here in 1731, and erected a fort which they called Fort St. Frederick, from Frederick Maurepas, the French Secretary of State. At this place the French kept a garrison, and from it, during the colonial wars, sent out their parties of French and Indians to destroy the frontier English settlements and massacre the in- habitants. When Kalm visited this place in 1749, there was considerable settlement around the fort, with well-cultivated gardens. Within the fort was a neat little church. The fort was built upon the brow of a steep bank of the lake, but a short distance from the water, and the remains of its bomb-proof covered way, ovens, etc., are still to be seen, though in a very dilapidated state. The small circle to the southeast of this de- notes the site of Grenadier's Battery, and the two small paral- lelograms to the southwest of the latter place, the situation of two strong redoubts. " On the approach of the British army under Gen. Amherst, in 1759, the French abarioned this fort and retired to the north end of the lake. AFJi«^rst took immediate possession, but instead of repairing the old works, began a new fort, which was called Crown Point, about 2C0 yards to the southwest, on higher and more commanding ground. This fort was never completed, as is evident from an examination of the ditch, glacis, etc., at the present day, although it has been said that the British government expendt I here no less than £2,000,000 sterling. i iV 304 WHITEHALL TO R0U8K 8 POINT. (< This fort was taken by surprise by a partv of Green Mouu- tain Boys, under Seth Warner, on the same day that Ticonde* roga surrendered to Ethan Allen. " The width of the peninsula upon which these works stood is one mile, and is in no part much elevated above the site of tlie principal fort, but there is a considerable mountain on the west side of Bulwagga Bay, the nearest summit of which is only ]\ miles from the fort, and elevated 400 feet above it. The highest is distant 2| miles, and elevated 900 feet. The whole peninsula is made up of dark limestone, covered in most parts with only a slight depth of earth, so that works upon it can not be assailed by regular advances. The width between Crown Point and Chimney Point is only about half a mile. From Crown Point to Split Rock the average width of the lake is about three and a half miles." Port Henry, on the west side of the lake, is situated on Cedar Point, at the mouth of Bui wag ga Bay, which separates Crown Point from the mainland. Here are the works of the Port Henry Iron Company, with iron ore of good qutvlity in the vicinity Westport, 60 miles north of Whitehall, is situated on Northwest Bay, on the west side of Lake Champlain. It con- tains 700 or 800 inhabitants, and is a thriving place. A horse ferry-boat here plies across the lake, running to Basin Harbor, Vermont. Ba-sin Harbor, one of the best on the lake, is in the town ot Ferrisburgh, Vt., and is five miles west from the city of Vergennes, and is the landing for it Fort Cassin, three miles north of Basin Harbor, aud on the north side of the mouth of Otter Creek, was formerly a landing place of passengers for Vergennes. It is eight miles from tho city of Vergennes, where Macdonough's fleet was fitted out, with which he gained his victory. Fort Cassin takes its name from Lieut. Cassin, of the navy, who, with a small breastwork at iHls place, and less than 200 men, commanded by himself and Capt. Thornton, of the artillery, on the 14th of May, 1814, repulsed a large British force in an attempt to enter the creek for the purpose of destroying the American flotilla before it should he ready for service. INT. WHITEHALL TO ROUSE S POINT. 303 :ty of Green Mouu- I day that Tlconde* these works stood is bovo the site of the Duntain on the west of which is only ]\ ive it. The hi{5lie8t ^he whole peninsula ost parts with only can not be assailwi Crown Point an'l From Crown Point s is about three and lake, is situated on af/i which separates •e the works of the of good qutvlityin Eill, is situated on Ihamplain. It con* ng place. A horse ig to Basin Harbor, lake, is in the town from the city of [arbor, aiid on the formerly a landing Ight miles from tho as fitted out, with ikes its name from breastwork at this himself and Capt. [ay, 1814, repulsed the creek for the )fore it should he Split Rock has been regarded as one of the greatest natural cariosities on the lake, and is one which did not escape the notice of the earliest French explorers. Backer Fendu occupies ft conspicuous place on Charlevoix's map of 1744. The part de- tftched contams about half an acre, rises about 80 foffi mbore the water, is covered with bushes, and is separated about twelve feet from the main rock. Some have supposed the chasm to have been produced by the breaking off of tho pit^montory in consequence of being undermined by the lake, or by some great convulsion of nature. But the slightest examination shows that the rocky point was here originally crossed by what geologists call a dike, the materials of which have been washed out, form- ing a chasm in the more solid rock, through which the lake flows when high. The chasm, instead of being unfathomable, as some have represented, is so shallow that no water flows through when the lake is low. A few rods south of Split Rock stands a light-house. The width of the lake between Split Rock and Thompson's Point is only about a mile From this place the width of the lake increases toward the north, and at McJVeiPs Ferry, between Charlotte landing and the village of Essex, it wants 20 rods of three miles. The village of Essex, 61 miles from Whitehall, is hand- somely situated on the west side of Lake Champlain, opposite Charlotte Landing, with which it is connected by a horse ferry-boat. Population about 700. The lake here expands to three or four miles in width, and presents a large expanse of water toward the north. The Green Mountains of Vermont, and the Adirondack Chroup of Essex County, are here seen stretching north and south in va9t Tuountain peaks and ridges. The CameVa Hump, being one of the highest peaks of the for- mer, is overlooked by Mount Marcy, on the New York side of the lake, the latter baing elevated 6,467 feet, or upward of one mile above the tide watf^ri of the Hudson; and near it this noble river has its most northern source. Four Brothers are four small islands lying about seven iniles south'o^est from Burlington, and being out of the usual 2e* 306 WHITEHALL TO ROUSe's POINT. r I !' If ii, line of navigation, they are resortiKl to by gulls and other wator-fowl for the purpose of raising their young. On Charle- Toil's map of 1744 they are calM Jsle de Quatre Vents. Juniper Island lies about three miles southwest from Bur- lington—is composed of slate rock, with precipitous banks about thirty feet high, and covered with about a dozen acres of good soil. A light-house was erected here in 1826. Rock Dunder is a solitary rock rising out of the water, be- tween Juniper Island and Pottier's Point, to the height of about thirty feet. Bttrlington, Vt., 76 miles from Whitehall, 25 miles from Plattsburgh, and 50 miles from Rouse's Point by steamboat route, is delightfully situated on Burlington Bay, on the east shore of Lake Champlain, and is the most important place in the State. It possesses a convenient and safe harbor for steam- boats and lake craft. The United States government have here erected a breakwater, which protects the shipping from westerly winds, and is a great addition to the security of the harbor. In 1850 it contained a population of 6,110 inhabitants; the University of Vermont, founded in 1791, occupying four spa- cious edifices, and having a medical school attached to it ; the Episcopal institute, a court-house and jail, eight churches of different denominations, an academy, and two female semina- ries; three banking-houses, several well-kept hotels, and a number of stores of diflferent kinds, besides several factories and mills, and almost every k?'nd of mechanic establishments About 1 J miles distant, on the falls of the Onion River, is a thriving manufacturing place called Winooski, where are lo- cated several large factories and mills. Burlington is, no doubt, destined rapidly to increase in wealth and population, froixi the fact of here centering several impor- tant lines of railroad travel, extending from Boston by two routes, through Montpelier and through Rutland. This rail- road and steamboat conununication extends across Lake Cham- plain to Plattsburgh and Rouse's Point, running north to Montreal, Canada, and west to Ogdensbnrgh, N. Y. INT. 7 gulls and other aung. On Charle- latre Vents. uthwcst from Bur- precipitous banks at a dozen acres of 1 1826. Lt of the water, be- the height of about all, 25 miles from oint by steamboat 1 Bay, on the east important place in B harbor for steam- rernment have here )ping from westerly rity of the harbor. inhabitn,nts ; the 3cupying four spa- ittached to it ; the eight churches of wo female semina- ept hotels, and a s several factories lio establishments Onion Riyer, is a iskif where are lo- increase in wealth ing several impor- >m Boston by two tland. This rail- icross Lake Cham- running north to N. Y. S o ti ^ Sd o o n 3 CO > H at a ^ o 5 w M Q o o * 3 a <1 i< 308 WHITEHALL TO ROUSE S POINT. Its advantages are now great, and its situation most beauti- ful, overlooking the lake, with its bays, islands, and adjacen scenery — the passing steamboats and other vessels — and pog. sesses a beauty of location probably unsurpassed by any other place in the Union. In trade and commerce it is closely allied with the interests of the State of New York. Steamboats stop here daily on their route from Whitehall to Rouse's Point ; a steamboat also plies from this place to Port Kent, on the op- posite side of the lake, a distance of ten miles, and thence to Plattsburgh, 25 miles. The principal hotels in Burlington are the American Hotel, the Exchange Hotel, and the Howard House. Travelers wishing to visit Mansfield Mountain ^ 20 miles northeast of Burlington, or the CameVs Hump, in the toini of Huntington, about the same distance in a southeast direc- tion, can easily obtain conveyances to either of the above ro- mantic resorts. From the summit of both are obtained beau- tiful and sublime views of the surrounding country and Lake Champlain, said to fully equal the prospect from the White Mountains of New Hampshire. The Vermont Central Railroad route, between Burlington, Montpelier, and Windsor, runs near the base of the latter mountain. The White Mountains of New Hampshire, about 120 miles east of Burlington, are reached from this place by railroad and stage, passing over the Vermont Central Railroad to Whit"! River Junction, and from thence up the valley of the Connecti- cut River to Wells' River, where commences the White Mount- ain Railroad, extending to Littleton, N. H. From Littleton stages run to the Notch of the White Mountains, a farther distance of 20 miles. This line of travel can be extended through to Portland, Me., passing over a romantic section of country. Port Kent is advantageously situated on the west side of Litke Champlain, 12 miles south of the village of Plattsburgh. It contains about 400 inhabitants, 50 dwelling-houses, one church, two taverns, three stores, and two warehouses. The WHITBHALL TO ROUSE 8 POINT. 309 e the American Hotel, site of this place is beautiful, commanding one of the finest views on Champlain, extending to the opposite shore of Vermont. It is contemplated to construct a railroad from Port Kent to the Au Sable Forks, a distance of 16 miles, passing through I the villages of Keeseville and Glintonyille. Immediately south of the landing at Port Kent lies Tremble u I Pointy the commencement of the Clinton range of mountains. KEES'=!vii,iiE, situated on both sides df the Au Sable River, is I four miles west of Port Kent. It contains about 8,000 inhab- itants, 400 dwelling-houses, one Congregational, one Baptist, one Methodist, and one Roman Catholic church; an incorpo- rated academy, one banking-house, two taverns, and 20 stores and groceries. The water-power at this place is very great, riud advantageously used by several extensive manufacturing establishments. There are two fiouring-mills, four extensive siw-mills, which make annually about half a million of market boards, an iron foundry, one furnace, and a machine-shop, to- I gather with most other kinds of mechanic workshops. At Birmingham, two miles below Keeseville, is a succession I of picturesque falls, in all about 150 feet descent. Immediately below the lower falls the river enters a deep ravine of singular and romantic beauty. Through the chasm thus formed by the wearing of the waters, or some convulsion of nature, the rocks {rise from 75 to 150 feet, almost perpendicular, for a distance of about two miles, averaging about 50 feet in width, altogether fonning a great natural curiosity. In addition io the above, [there are other ravines in this vicinity of singular formation Fi'om Port Kent to Plattsburgh the course is along the west- jem shore of the lake, passing several islands. Port Jackson, the only intermediate landing place, is nearly Iwest of the south end of Valeour Island^ noted for a severe naval conflict, on the 11th of October, 1776, between the Amer- liean flotilla under General Arnold, and the British under Capt. |Prindle. The battle was fought a little north of Port Jackson. " Five or six miles nearly east from Port Jackson was the iKcne of the conflagration of the steamer Phoenix on the 5th of m..^. M ■i -«•:.« .■■'^1 ^^^'^1..; lil 310 WHITEHALL TO HOUSE 8 POINT. Septer *.ber, 1819. On the morning of the accident, the Phoenix left Burlington about one o'clock, against a strong north wind. About 3 o'clock, while oflf nearly west of the south end of Grand Isle, the boat was discovered to be on fire, and all efforts to extinguish it were unavailing. There were at this time 44 persons on board, 31 of whom entered the small boats, and sue* ceeded, mth considerable difficulty, in reaching a small island about a mile to the windward, called Providence Island. The remaining 13 were soon obliged to commit themselves to the water upon bits of plank and such other things as were within their reach. The small boats returned just after daylight, and succeeded in saving six of those who had managed to keep them- selves afloat. The remaining seven were drowned. The wreck drifted southward and lodged on a reef extending from Colches- ter Point. This is the only accident worthy of notice which has occurred during 46 years of steam navigation on this lake." Plattsburgh, Clinton Co., N. Y., is situated on both sides I of the Saranac River, 100 miles north of Whitehall and 25 miles south of Rouse's Point by steamboat route It was incorporated as a village in 1815, and now contains about 4,000 inhabitants J 500 dwelling-houses, a court-house, jail, and county clerk's | office ; a town-hall, one Presbyterian, one Episcopal, one Meth- odist, and two Roman Catholic churches ; an incorporated acad- emy, 50 stores of different kinds, and six public houses, the I principal of which are the Cumberland House and Fouquet's Hotel ; two banks and one insurance office. Here are situated, on the Saranac, using water-power, two flouring-mills, one woolen factory, one fulling-mill, two saw-mills, two machine- 1 shops, and one foundry ; there are also two tanneries, one so manufactory, three printing-offices, together with almost every I other kind of mechanic workshops. The water-power at this place is very great, the Saranac River here having a succession of falls, making a total descent of about 40 feet. The sor-j rounding country is rich in agricultural and mineral produc- tions ; iron ore of fine quality is procured in different part«(rf| the county. This is also a United States military post, where the government has erected extensive stone barracks, near the! lake shore, and a permanent breakwater for the protection (^| the harbor in Cumberland Bay >OINT. ccident, the Phoenix] i strong north wind. r the south end of a fire, and all efforts | prere at this time 44 mall boats, and sue* shing a small island idence Island. The] it themselves to the lings as were within t after daylight, and ] Einaged to keep them- rowned. The wreck ending from Colches- y of notice which has I tion on this lake." ' tuated on both sides hitehall and 25 miles It was incorporated ut 4,000 inhabitants, , and county clerk's Episcopal, one Meth* in incorporated acad- x. public houses, the louse and Fouquet's Here are situated, flouring-mill3, one mills, two machine- tanneries, one soap ler with almost every water-power at this e having a succession 40 feet. The sur- and mineral produc- indifferent part* of I military post, where] Le barracks, near the| for the protection of WHITKHALL TO ROUSE'8 POINT. 311 Steamers run daily, during the season of navigation, from Plattsburgh to Burlington and Whitehall on the south, and to St. Albans and Rouse's Point on the north, connecting with different railroads. The Plattsburgh and Montreal Railroad Ditends in a northerly direction to Mooer's Junction, and thence across the Canada line to Caughnawaga and Montreal, a total I distance of 62 miles. RAILROAD ROUTE FROM PLATTSBURGH TO MONTREAL. Stations. Miles. Total Miles. Plat rsBURGK WestChazy 10 10 Mooer's Junction 10 20 Hemingford, Canada 6 26 St. Remi 16 41 Caughnawaga. . . . •. 11 52 La Chine 2 64 MONTHKAL 8 62 Usual Time, three hours. Fare, $2 10. Plattsburgh was the scene of an important engagement be- jtween the British and American armies, in September, 1814, which resulted in the defeat of the British, under the command of Sir George Prevost, and the capture of the British fleet under Com. Downie, who was killed in the action. The American army was commanded by Maj. Gen. Macomb, and the fleet by Com. McDonough. m NAVAL ENGAGEMENT AND BATTLE OF PLATTSBURGH, SEPT. U, 1814. Cpifd/ram Paltnsr^» "History of Lake Champlain." "When the British army reached Plattsburgh, their gun- Iboats had advanced as far as the Isle La Motte, where they pmained, under command of Capt. Pring. On the 8th Sept., I Captain Downie reached that place with the rest of the fleet, land on the morning of the 11th the whole weighed anchor and Utood south to attack the Americans, who lay in Cumberland IB&y.offPlattsburKh. '^As the Britiw vessels rounded Cumberland Head, about s 312 NAVAL BATTLE OF PLATTSBURGH. % "if eight o'clock in the morning, they found McDonough at anchof a little south of the mouth of the Saranac River, and abreast, | but out of gun-shot, of the forts. His vessels lay in a line run- ning north from Crab Island, and nearly parallel with the west I shore. The brig Eagle, Captain Henley, lay at the head of the line, inside the point of the Head. This vessel mounted twenty guns and had on board one hundred and fifty men. Next to | her, and on the south, lay McDonough's flag-ship, the Saratoga, mounting twenty-six guns, with two hundred and twelve men. Next south was the schooner Ticonderoga, of seventeen guns, Lieutenant Cassin, with one hundred and ten men, and next to her, and at the southern extremity of the line, lay the sloop Preble, Lieutenant Charles Budd. This vessel carried seven guns, and was manned by thirty men. She lay so near the shoal extending northeast from Crab Island, as to prevent the enemy from turning that end of the line. To the rear of the line were ten gun-boats, six of which mounted one long twenty- four pounder, and one eighteen pound Columbiad each; the other four carried one twelve pounder. -The gun-boats had, on an average, thirty-five men each. Two of the gun-boats lay a little north and in rear of the Eagle, to sustain the head of the line ; the others were placed opposite the intervals between the different vessels, and about forty rods to their rear. The larger vessels were at anchor, while the gun-boats were kept in posi- tion by their sweeps. " The British fleet was composed of the frigate Conjianee, carrying thirty-seven guns,* with over three hundred men. commanded by Captain Downie; the brig Linnet, Captain Pring, of sixteen guns and 120 men; the sloop Chub, Lieutenant McQhee, and the sloop Finch, Lieutenant Hicks, carrying eleyen guns and about forty-five men each. To these vessels were added twelve gun-boats of about forty-five men each. Eight of them carried two guns, and four one gun each. Thus the force of the Americans consisted of one ship, one brig, one schooner, one sloop, and ten gun-boats, manned by eight hundred and eighty-two men, and carrying in all eighty-six guns. The British had one frigate, one brig, two sloops, and twelve gun- boats, manned by over one thousand men, and carrying in all ninety -five guns. The metal of the vessels on both sides was unusually heavy. The Saratoga mounted eight long twenty- fours, six forty-twos, and twelve thirty-twos, while the Con- fiance had the gun-deck of a heavy frigate, with thirty long twenty-fours upon it. She also had a spacious topgallant fore- castle, and a poop that came no farther forward than the mizen * There were thirty-nine guns on board the Gonflanoe, but two of then were not mounted.— 0>^7>fli*. m NAVAL BATTLE OF PLATTSBUROH. 313 last. On the first were a long twenty-four on a circle, and jfoiir heavy carronades ; tw(^ heavy carronades were mounted on ie poop. " When the British fleet appeared in sight, the Finch led and i[ept in a course toward Crab Island, while the other vessels tiove to opposite the point of Cumberland Head, to allo^^' the i-boats to come up, and to receive final instructions as ^ the^ plan of attack. The vessels th^ filled and headed in toward the American fleet, prising inside of the point of Cumberland iHead ; the Chub laying her course a little to windward of the [Eagle, in order to support the Linnet, which stood directly to- Iward that vessel. Captain Downie had determined to lay the IConfiance athwart the Saratoga., but the wind bafflins, he was lobliged to anchor at about two cables' length from that ship. IThe Finch, which had run about half way to Crab T-rland, tacked' land took her station, with the gun-boats, opposite the Ticonde- |roga and Preble. "As the British vessels approached they received the fire of I the American fleet; the brig Eagle firing first, and being soon\ followed by the Saratoga, and the sloop and schooner.* The Linnet poured her broadside i^to the Saratoga as she passed that ship to take her position opposite the Eagle. Captaini Downie brought his vessel into action in the most gallant man- ner, and did not fire a gun until he was perfectly secured,, although his vessel suffered severe! from the fire of the Ameri- cans As soon, however, as the L^nfiance had been brought into position, she discharged all her larboard gans, at i?early the same instant. The eflfecfc of this broadside, thrown fromi long twenty-four pounders, double shotted, in smooth waterj. was terrible. The Saratoga trembled to her very keel ; about forty of her crew were disabled, including her first Lieutenant). ] Mr. Gamble, who was killed while sighting the bow-gun. " Soon after the commencement of the engagement, the Chub, j while maneuvering near the head of the American line, received' ja broadside from the Eagle, which so crippled her that she- { drifted down between the opposing vessels and struck. She was ' taken possession of by Mr. Charles Piatt, on^ of the Saratoga's midshipmen, and was towed in shore and anchored. The Chub » iflanoe, bat two of tboa *Tlie first gun fired on board the Saratoga was a long twenty-four,, whioh McDonough himself sighted. The shot is said to have struck the Conflanoe near the outer hawse-hole, and to have passed the length ofher* Jeck, killing and wounding several men, and carrying away the wheel. In clearing the decks of the Saratoga^some hen coops were thrown over-- ward, and the poultry permitted to run at large. Star led by the report of tbe opening gun of the Eagle, a young cock flew upon a gun. Mide, dtpped his wings and crowec'. The men gave three cheers, and consid^ wed the little incidence as a happy omen.— Cooper's Naval nUiory and A'iki' Register. 27 i 4 "^^ 314 NAVAL BATTLE OF PLATTSBURGil. iJ' l» 'i^ pv; ii had suffered severely; nearly half of her men Having be(Mi| killed or wounded. About an hour, later the Finch was driven! from her position by the Ticonderoga, and, bo'-g badly injured,! drifted upon the shoal near Crab Island, ■w^.j*e she grounded.! After being fired into from the small battery on the island, she! struck, and was taken possession of by the invalids who manned! the battery.* ** After the loss of the Finch, the British gun-boats made| several efforts to close, and succeeded in compelling the slo Preble to cut her cables and to anchor in shore of the line,} where she was of no more service during the engagement. The! gun boats, emboldened by this success, now directed their efforul toward the Ticonderoga, against which they made several very| gallant assaults, bringing the boats, upon two or three occa- sions, within a few feet of the schooner's side. They were, how- ever, as often beaten back, and the schooner, during the re-l mainder of the day, completely covered that extremity of the line. " While these changes were taking place at the lower end of the line, a change was .ilso made at the other extremity. The I Eagle, having lost her springs, and finding herself exposed to the fire of both the Linnet and Confiance, dropped down and anchored between the Saratoga and Ticonderoga, and a little in| shore of both. From this position she opened afresh on the Con- fiance and the British gun-boats, with her larboard guns. Tbisl change relieved the brig, but left the Saratoga exposed to thel whole fire of the Linnet, which sprung her broadsides in such a] manner as to rake the ship on her bows, " The fire from the Saratoga and Confiance now began mate- rially to lessen, as gun after gun on both vessels became dis- abled, until at last the Saratoga had not a single available gun, I and the Confiance was but little better oflF. It therefore became necessary that both vessels should wind, to continue the action] with any success. This the Saratoga did after considerable de- lay, but the Confiance was less fortunate, as the only effect of | ner efforts was to force the vessel ahead. As soon as the Sara- ♦ Mr. Alison (History of England, vol. 4), referring to this event, says: "The Finch, a British. 6Hfl', grounded out of shot and did not engage n and again, " The Finch struck on a reef of roclcs and could not get intol action." Had Mr. Alison taken the trouble to read Capt Pring's official account of the engagement, he would have found in it the following staie- ment : " Lieutenant Hicks, of the Finch, had the mortification to strilte on a! reef of rocks, to the eastward of Crab Island, about the middle of the en- gagement, which prevented his rendering that assistance to the squadron that might, from an officer of such ability, nave been expected." It is very convenient for the English historian to convert a small sloop of eleren guns and forty men into a briff^ and to keep that large vessel out of the action altogether, but, as I have before said, such statements are unneces- sary to preserve the well-earned reputation of the British navy for braverj j > or gallantry in action. SBUROII. NAVAL BATTLE OF PLATTSBUROH. 315 ?*■' er men Haying beeii| the Finch was driven! , br--g badly injured,! v^.j*e Bhe groundeil ery on the island, she! invalids who manned! itish gun-boats madel compelling the sloopl in shore of the line,! ;he engagement. The| f direct^ their efforul ey made several veryj Q two or three occa- de. They were , how- 1 ►oner, during the ^^ k extremity of the line.! le at the lower end off ther extremity. The ng herself exposed to e, dropped down and ieroga, and a little in led afresh on the Con- larboard guns. This ratoga exposed to the broadsides in such a] nee now began mate- 1 vessels became dis-j single available gun, It therefore became continue the action ifter considerable de- as the only effect of | As soon as the Sara- ring to this event, says; t and did not engaffen and could not get into ad Capt Pring'8 olBclal in it the following staie- nortiflcation to strike on | mt the middle of the en- istance to the squadron I m expected." It is very small sloop of elerei t large vessel out of tbe itatements are nnnece»-l ritish navy for braverjl came around she poured a fresh broadside from her lar- ird guns into the Confiance, which stood the fire for a few ^utes and then struck. The ship then brought her guns to ir on the Linnet, which surrendered in about fifteen minutes erward. At this time the British pun-boats lay half a mile 1 ie rear, where they had been driven by the sharp fire of the ficmideroga and Eagle. These boats lowered their colors as on as they found the larger vessels had submitted ; but not eing pursued, for the American gun-boats were sent to aid ke Confiance and Linnet, which were reported to be in a sink- ^ condition, they escaped, together with a store sloop, which Ly near the point of Cumberland Head during the battle. The engagement continued for two hours and a half, and fas the most severely fought naval battle of the war. The iratoga had twenty-eight men killed and twenty-nine wounded ; lie Eagle thirteen killed and twenty wounded ; the Ticonde- six killed and six wounded, and the Preble two killed. be loss on the gun-boats was three killed and three wounded. [otal killed and wounded, one hundred and ten, being equal to rery eighth man in the fleet. Besides, the Saratoga had been [ailed fifty-five times, and was twice on fire; the Eagle was lulled thirty-nine times! The carnage and destruction had een as great on the other side. The Confiance had forty-one nen killed and eighty-three wounded ; the Linnet reported her sualties at ten killed and fourteen wounded, but the killed ad wounded probably exceeded fifty ; the Chub was reported [tsix killed and ten wounded, and the Fir.oli at two wounded. Jo account is given of the loss on the gun-boats, but from their jlose and severe contest with the Tic mderoga, it must have en large. The total of killed and woujided on the British side |ra8 equal to at least one fifth of the whole number of men in heir fleet. The Confiance had been huUe i one hundred and pre times. So severe had been the contest, that at the close of be action there was not a mast in either fleet fit for use.* " Among those killed on the side of the British were Captain ownie, who fell soon after the action commenced. Captain Uexauder Anderson of the Marines, Midshipman William Gunn bf the Confiance, and Lieutenant William Paul and Boatswain fharles Jackson of the Linnet. Among the wounded were IMid- bipman Lee of the Confiance, Midshipman John Sinclair of the * I could only look at the enemy's galleys going off, in a shattered con- jlitior ; for there was not a mast in either squadron that could stand to Bke sail on ; the lower rigging being nearly all shot away, hung down I though it had been just placed over the mast he&d.—McDonougfi'g art of the Battle. Our masts, yards, and sails were so shuttered, that . De looked \ike so many bunches of matches, and the other like a bundle frags. — Letter o/Mid^ipman Lee o the Confiance. m 816 NAVAL BATTLE OF PLATTSBUROH. Linnet, and Lieutenant James McGhee of the Chub. The Amerl ican officers killed were Peter Gamble, Ist Lieutenant of the! Saratoga, John Stansbury, 1st Lieutenant of the TicoDderogaj Midshipman James M. Baldwin, and Sailing ATadter Rogenr Carter. Keferring to the death of three of these officers, Mr. Cooper, in his History of the Navy, says : * Lieutenant Gamblej was on his knees, sighting the bow-gun, when a shot entere the port, split the quoin, drove a portion of it against his breastj and laid him dead on the quarter-deck without breaking his skin. Fifteen minutes later one of the American shot struck the muzzle of a twenty-four on the Confiance, dismounted itJ sending it bodily inboard against the groin of Captain DownieJ killing him also without breaking the skin. Lieutenant Stans-I bury suddenly disappeared from the bulwarks forward, whilel superintending some duty with the springs of the Ticonderogaj Two days after the action, his body rose to the surface of the water, and it was found that it had been cut in two by a ruiindl shot.' " It is said that scarcely an individual escaped on board of! either the Confiance or Saratoga without some injury. MacJ donough was twice knocked down ; once by the spanker-booin,| which was cut in two by a shot, and fell upon his back as he was bending his body to sight a gun ; and again by the head of a gunner, which was driven against him, and knocked himl into the scuppers. Mr. Brum, the sailing-master of the Sara-' toga, had his clothes torn off by a splinter while winding thel ship. Mr. Vallette, acting Lieutenant, had a shot-box, onl which he was standing, knocked from under his feet, and hel too was once knocked down by the head of a seaman. Very! few escaped without some accident, and it appears to have beenl agreed on both sides, to call no man wounded who could keep! out of the hospital.* Midshipman Lee of the Confiance, who! was wounded in the action, thus describes the condition of thati vessel : * The havoc on both sides is dreadful. I don't thinkl there are more than five of our men, out of three hundred, buti what are killed or wounded. Never was a shower of hail sol thick as the shot whistling about our ears. Were you to seel my jacket, waistcoat, and trowsers, you would be astonishedl how I escaped as I did, fbr they are literally torn all to ragsl with shot and splinters ; the upper part of my hat was also shotl away. There is one of our marines who was in the Trafalgar action with Lord Nelson, who says it was a mere fleabite in| comparison with this."t • Cooper's Naval History, t Letter to his brother, published in Niles'^ Register, voL 8. The result | of the engagement depended, from the first, upon the Saratoga and Con* WHITEHALL TO ROUSE 8 POINT. 317 The officers, on both sides, who fell in the several encounters by land and water, on the memorable occasion above mentioned, vera buried in the public cemetery adjacent to the village of Plattsburgh; but their graves were left, under the pressing exigencies of that time, without any permanent monument, or stone of memorial. That community, long discontented with an omission which seemed to betoken an apathy not at all in unison with real feelings, at last determined to make amends for their neglect, and fulfill all the rites of sepulture. Accord- ingly, a little previous to the return of the anniversary of the battle, in 1843, meetings were held at whicL was resolved to celebrate the day, by placing marble monuments, with appro- priate inscriptions, at the several graves, and thu^i render to the brave and devoted dead the remaining public honors so eminently their due, and so long left unpaid. This design was carried into effect under the superintendence of tho Clinton County Military Association, and the anniversary rendered deeply interesting by the placing of these monuments, with appropriate ceremonies and religious services, accompanied by commemoration addresses. The graves are arranged m the form of a parallelogram, with that of Capt Downie, the commander of the British flo- tilla, in the center, as the officer of highest rank. The names of the others, so far as known, are as follow : Of our own countrymen, Lt. George W. Runk, of the U. S. A. ; Lt. Pete:* Gamble, U. S. N. ; Lt John Stansbury, U. S. N. ; Sailing Mas- ter Rogers Carter, U. S. N. ; Midshipman James M. Baldwin, U. S. N. ; Pilot Joseph Barron, U. 8. N., and another pilot, name not known. Of the British army, Col. Wellington, 3d Regt Buflfs, Capt. Purchess, 70th Regt., Lieutenant R. Kings- bury, 3d Regt. Buffs ; and of the British navy, Capt. AleXr Anderson and three Lieutenants, names not known. Ilance. When McDonoiigh anchored his vessel, he not only attached' 'prings to the cables, but also laid a kedge broad off on each bow of the Saratoga, and brought the hawsers in upon the two quarters To this timely precaution lie was indebted for the victory, for without the larboard liawser he could not have brought his fresh broadside into action. 27* i; 318 WniTJiHALL TO ROUSR 8 POINT. m4 HI' in The beautiM linej of an Irish poet o^ the last century (Col. lins), can never be more appropriate than to this occasion : " How Rliep the brave who sink to rest, By all '.heir country's wishes blest ! when spring with dewy Angers cold Retun:s to deck their hallowed mold. 8 he there shall dress a sweeter sod Tlian I'liicy's feet have ever trod. There honor comes, a pilgrim gray, To bless the turf that wraps their clay, And mevnory shall awhile repair To dwell a weeping hermit there. Cumberland Head ia a peninsula extending two or three miles into the lake, opposite the village of Plattsburgh, forming Cumberland Bay, into which empties the Saranac River. Crab, or Hospital Island lies two miles south, and near the track of the steamers on their way to and from the landing at Plattsburgh. It was on a line nearly north and south between Cumberland Head and Crab Island that the Britisii and American fleets encountered each other, on the 11th of September, 1814, a day which brought so much honor to the American flag. South Hero and North Hero are the names of two Is* lands belonging to the jurisdiction of Vermont. The former is connected by a ferry, and on the east side with the main shore of Vermont by a bridge. Chazy Landing, 16 miles north of Plattsburgh, is a conve- nient steamboat landing, on the west side of Lake Champlain. Isle au Motte, opposite the above landing, is a fine island, also attached to Vermont. It is 6 miles long and 2 miles wide, containing much good land, and a valuable quarry of marble. The village of Rouse's Point, in the town of Champlain, 25 miles north of Plattsburgh, and 125 miles from Whitehall, is j situated on the west side of Lake Champlain, about one mile south of the Canada line, and has a convenient steamboat landing, a very large depot building, and a well kept hotel. It is surrounded in part by a level and fertile region, j which extends west to the St. Lawrence River. One mile north j of the village is a fort and military position commanding tb« WHITEHALL TO R0U8B 8 POINT. 31ID naTigabld channel of the lake. In 1815 the government of the United States cojimenced the construction of a strong fortress at Rouse's Point; but on running out the boundary line between the United States and Canada, under the treaty of Ghent, this point was found to be north of the 45th degree of north latitude, and the works were suspended. United States Boundary Line. — "This l?ie was fixed in 1842, by treaty negotiated by Lord Ashburton and Mr. Web- ster, on the old line formerly supposed to be the 45th parallel of latitude. Immediately after the close of the last war the United States government commenced building a fort on a low point to the northward of Rouse's Point landing, which should completely command the pi\8sage up the lake. By the survey of this line in 1818, it was ibund that this point was north of the 45th parallel, and the work was consequently abandoned ; but by the late treaty the fort was secured to the United States, and .ne work has recently been resumed. An opening through the woods like a road, on the east side cf the lake, and about 200 rods north of the fort, marks the place of the Line as now established." At Rouse's Point is erected a long and substantial draw- bridge, crossing the foot of Lake Champlain, for the accommo- dation of the railroad traffic passing from Montreal and Ogdens- burgh to New York and Boston. During the winter months this bridge afifords the exclusive thoroughfare at this point between Canada and the Eastern States. The railroads which here terminal te are the Vermont and Canada Railroad ^ connecting with the Vermont Central Rail- road; the JVorthern Railroad of New York, 118 miles in length, terminating at Ogdensburgh ; and the Champlain and St. Law- rence Railroad, 44 miles in length, terminating opposite Mon- treal. On arriving and departing from Rouss'e Point, travelers are subjected to the inconvenience of having their baggage exam- ined by custom-house officers ; this is a great port of mtiy as well as thoroughfare. i ■'4 h^- 320 WHITEHALL TO ROUSES POINT. N, The town of Alburoh, Vt., is a triasgnlar body of land pro- jecting from Canada into Lake Champlain, by which it is sur- rounded, excepting on the Canada side. On the eastern shoro lies the village of ^Iburghy a port of entry, and a few miles north is Alburgh Spring.^, where is a small settlement and several hotels. This justly celebrated watering-place lies near the Missisquoi Bay, and is easily reached by railroad, being situated seven miles east of Rouse^s Point and IG miles west of St. Albans, Vt. HiOHGATE Sprinu.8, throo miles from Swanton Station anl 17 miles from Rouse*s Point, near the village of Highgate, Vt., is another and favorite watering-place, attracting much attention. It is situated near Missisquoi Bay, affording tine fishing-grounds, and an opportunity to enjoy aquatic sports and hunting. Missisquoi Bay, connecting with Lake Champlain on the north, is a large and romantic sheet of water lying mostly in Canada, or north of the 45th degree of north latitude. Tliis bay and its sarrounding shores afford most romantic and de- lightful scenery, varied by high land and picturesque points Hunting, fishing, or pleasure sailing can here be enjoyed by those fond of such sports, while the invigorating climate gives strength and elasticity to the weak and debilitated. During the summer and autumn months a steamer runs around the bay, landing at Phillipsburgh, Can., Highgate, Vt., and other landings. Ash Island, four miles north of Rouse's Point, is considered the foot of Lake Champlain. Here the Richelieu, or St. John's River, as the outlet of Lake Champlain is called, is about half a mile wide. The land on both sides of the stream seems almost level with the water, and presents this low and flat surface for many miles. Isle Aux Noix, situated in the Richelieu River, 12 miles north of Rouse's Point, is the first steamboat landing after entering Canada. Here is a strong fortification commanding the channel of the river and occupied by British troops. ROUSE 8 POINT TO MONTREAL, ETC. 321 RAILROAD EOUTB FROM ROUSE'S POINT TO OODENS- BURQU, tia NORTHERN RAILROAD. Stations. Miles. Rouse's Point Mooer's Junction 12 Chazy 11 Summit 14 Chateaugay 9 Malone 11 Brush's Mills 11 Stockholm 14 Potsdam Junction 11 Lisbon 16 Ogdensburoh 9 Total Miles. 12 23 37 46 67 68 82 93 109 118 Usual Time, 5 hours. Fare, $8 60. On leaving Rouse's Point for St. John's and Montreal, the line of the Champlain and St. Lawrence Railroad extends along the west side of ae Sorel or Richelieu River, over a level Hnd productive section of country, passing La CoUe, six miles from Rouse's Point. St. John's or Dorchester, 150 miles from Whitehall, is advantageously situated on the west side of the Richelieu Elver, at the foot of navigation ; a bridge connecting it with the vil- lage of St. Anthanase, on the opposite shore. It is 23 miles north of the American line> 22 miles southeast of Montreal, and contains about 2,200 inhabitants, 275 dwelling-houses, a custom-house, and extensive barracks for soldiers, one Episco- pal, one Roman Catholic, and one Methodist church ; ten ho- tels and taverns, ten stores, and two forwarding houses, one extensive glass factory, one stone factory, two tanneries, and mechanics shops of different kinds. The Chamhly Canal extends from St. John's to Chambly, on the northwest side of the Richelieu River, a distance of 12 miles. It was completed in 1843, at a cost of about $400,000. There are nine locks on this canal 120 feet long, 24 feet wide. "■Hi 822 ROUSE S POINT TO MONTREAL, ETC. i;.| ijc,-.- and SIX feet deep ; lift ten feet each, making a total descent of 90 teet in 12 miles. This canal was constructed by the Pro- yincial government. It affords navigation for vessels of 100 tons burden between Like Champlain and the St. Lawrence Biver, thus furnishing a a uninterrupted water communication from New York to Quebec. The railroad from Si. John's to Montreal, 21 miles in length, extends over a level soction of country, the St. Lawrence River soon coming in sight. The as^^ect of the St. Lawrence is truly grand and intersst- u^g) as you approach it on the south from Rouse's Point. Tow- ard the west is seen the La Chine Rapid, one of the most dan- gerous on the river. Op*)osite Montreal it is two miles wide, embosoming the beautiful island of St. Helen, which is fortified and garrib ned by British troops. As you approach Montreal by water, the new Victoria Bridge, the city, shipping, and wharves are seen to great advantage. The latter — the wharves — probably exceed any thing of the kind in America, consisting of a range of massive and solid masonry extending along the river for upward of a mile. The following beautiful lines, descriptive of one of the sources of human happiness^ is from the gifted pen of N. P. Willis, ajid may be appropriately inserted at this place : " Tig to have < Attentive and believiag faculties ; To go abroad reioicing in tlie joy Of beautiftil and well-created things To love the voice of waters, and the shi'^u Of silver fountains leaping to the sea ; To thrill with the rich meltdy of birus, Living their life of nusic ; to be gl& i In the gay sunshiue, reverent in the storm ; To see a beauty \ TABLE OP DISTANCES FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC, BY WATER. MONTREAL ; To Varennes William Henrt 30 Lake St. Peter. 8 St. Francis 30 Three Rivers 7 St. Anne 20 Richelieu Rapids 15 Cape Sante. 15 Cape Rouge 22 QUEBEC 8 15 Miles 45 53 83 90 no 126 140 102 170 RAILROAD ROUTE FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC, WHITE MOUNTAINS, AND PORTLAND, MAINE, t)ia GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. Stations. Miles. Total Miles. MONTREAL Longueuil. 2 2 St. Hyacinthe 80 82 Richmond 42 74 QUEBEC 97 171 Sherbrooke 24 98 Boundary Line 30 128 Island Pond, Vt 17 145 Northumberland 27 172 Ctorham (White Mt. Station) ... 31 203 South Paris. 43 246 Danville Junction 20 266 PORTLAND 28 294 324 RAILROAD ROUTR. EAILEOAD EOUTE FEOM MONTREAL TO TORONTO, via GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. Stations. Miles. MontrI:al Blue Bonnets 5 Pointe Claire 15 St. Anne's ( Ottawa River) 21 Vaudreuil 24 Cedars (road to) 29 Coteau Landing 37 Riyer lieaudette 44 Lancas er 64 CORNW VLL 68 Dickinson's Landing 77 Aultsville 84 Williamsburg 92 Matilda 99 Edwardsburg 104 Prescott Junction 112 PRESCOTT 113 Maitland 120 Brockville 126 Mallorytown 137 Lansdowne 146 Gananoque 155 Kingston Mills 169 Kingston 173 Collins Bay 180 Ernestown 188 Napanee 199 Shannonville 213 Bellkville 220 Trenton 232 Colborne.. 249 Grafton 256 COBOURG 263 Port Hope 271 Port Britain 274 Newcastle 286 Bowmanville 290 OSHAWA 800 Port Whitby 804 Port Union 816 Scarboro' 820 York 327 Toronto 838 Stations. Miles. Toronto York 6 Scarboro' 13 Port Union 17 Port Whitby 29 OsHAWA S3 Bowmanville 43 Newcastle 47 Port Britain 59 Port Hope 62 CoBOURO 70 Grafton 77 Colborne 84 Trenton 101 Belleville 113 Shannonville 120 Napanee 134 Ernestown 145 Collins Bay 153 Kingston .... 160 Kingston Mills 164 Gananoque 178 Lansdowne 187 Mallorytown 196 Brockville 208 Maitland 213 Prescott 220 Prescott Junction 221 Edwardsburg 229 Matilda 234 Williamsburg 241 Aultsville 249 Dickinson's Landing 266 Cornwall 265 Lancaster 279 River Beaudette 289 Coteau Landing 296 Cedars (road to) 804 Vaudreuil ( Ottawa Riv'r) 309 St. Anne's 312 Pointe Claire 318 Blue Bonnets 328 Montreal 333 j UsuAi* Time, 15 hours. Fabei $10. ) TOEONTO, via > Miles. ;;•;;; ^ | TRIP FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 17 H This interesting trip is, during the warm season, one of a 83 ■ most delightful character. To be fully enjoyed, however, it ) ^3 I should be performed during daylight ; but, unfortunately, the pg ■ evening line of steamers usually alone performs the trips, ............ 62 ■ leaving Montreal at seven o'clock p. m., and Quebec two 70 I hours earlier. '* Both banks are low and uninteresting in a L I scenic point of view, but lined with the neat, whitewashed cot- ........... . 101 Btages of the French-Canadian peasantry, built so closely to E 113 leach other as to suggest the idea of a continuous village on ^ ]i. I either bank; with here and there a thicker grouping of houses 145 Broond the parish church. Darkness, however, soon closes the 153 BTieW; and the traveler only knows that he is rapidly borne !ry. ■ along on the now united and smooth waters of two mighty, rivers, ^ ! ! 178 Better known by the inhabitants on its banks as the La Grande '. '. '. 187 l/ttM^re." a OAQ I ^ leaving Montreal for Quebec and the intermediate land- ^ 213 1"^' ^^ ^^® ^^ ^^ many splendid steamers which navigate the 220 I St Lawrence, you have a fine view of the beautiiul fortified notion ^21 ■jgiand of St. Helkn, situated mid-stream opposite the city ; ^S 9gl lind as you are borne along on the majestic current of the lPg 241 ■Biglity river, its thickly settled and cultivated shores compel '^^A 1^^ A^inii^iAg attention of the traveler, by the aspect presented Landing Hby their lines of settlements on each side, for the whole distance 279 Btf 170 miles from city to city. iette 289 ■ Longueuil, on the opposite side of the river from Montreal, ding JjjiB'B connected with the city by a commodious ferry — this being Ottawa Riv'rjl^m^^ prt^ent terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway, leading 312 ■to Quebec and Portland, Me., the two routes diverging at Kioh- e grtg mf^^^y C. E. — thus forming a speedy line of travel both to Que- *** 883 ^ffc on tho northeast, and the White Mountains of New Hamp- ^. Q ^r~v on the southeast. 32C MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. The Rapidb of St. Mart are entered immediately below St. Helen's Island ; and, althongh not formidable to steam vessels, they often retard the ordinary river craft for many days in ascending. LoNouE Point and Point aux Trembles, on the island of « Montreal, are successively passed on the left, and Boucher- viLLE on the opposite shore. The Island or St. Theresa lies in the St. Lawrence, a short distance from the northern termination of the island of Montreal, and 15 miles below the eiU near the lower mouth of the Ottawa River. Varennes, on the southeast side of the river, 15 miles from Montreal, is a beautiful place, and was formerly much resorted to for the mineral springs in its vicinity. The massive church, with its two spires, surrounded by a cli ^ er of neat dwellings, presents a fine appearance from the river. Other '^.Igect'^ of interest are seen in the distance ; the hills back of Montreal are %till visible ; and the Mountain of Eouville, rising grandly in the southeast^ its summit crowned with an immense cross, seen for many miles, greatly exalts the character and expres- sion of the whole prospect. William Henry, or Sorel, 45 miles below Montreal, standi on the site of an old fort, built in 1 665, at the mouth of tb Richelieu River. It is regularly laid out with streets cross! each other at right angles. This town was first settled in 1685 and now contains about 3,000 inhabitants. It is no doubt dcs tined to increase, as a canal, with locks, is now constructed fro; Ohambly to St. John's, affording an uninterrupted water com munication with Lake Champlain. The fort at this place wi taken and occupied, in May, 1776, by a party of the Americ army, in their retreat from Quebec on the death of Gen. Mom gomery. Leaving the mouth of the Richelieu and proceeding down thj St. Lawrence, several islands are passed in succession, and tin yoa enter Lake St. Peter, 50 miles below Montreal. This sheet diorol MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 327 mediately below St. >le to Bteam vessels, for many days in .E8, on the island of left, and Boucheb- the St. Lawence, a ion of the island of lar the lower moutli i river, 15 miles from rmerly much resetted The massive church, er of neat dwellings,! er. Other '-.'^jectiofl ills back of Montreal ,MuiZ/e, rising grandly th an immense cross, •haracter and expres- lelow Montreal, stands at the mouth of the with streets crossii kS first settled ml685| It is no doubt desj now constructed froi Lterrupted water comj •ort at this placets larty of the America [e death of Gen. Mont Id proceeding down th In succession, and thd itreal. This sheet water, which is but an expansion of the river, is about 20 miles long and 12 to 15 miles wide, while the average breadth of the river proper, from Montreal to Quebec, is about two miles, and the scone which its waters present has some features peculiar eQOllg^ to be noticed. In addition to the more customary forms of steamboats, of ships, and other sea-going vessels, and of the craft usually employed in the navigation of large rivers, the watei 3 of the St. Lawrence, more than any other even on this forest- covered continent, are frequented by enormous timber- rafts, commonly borne along on their way to market by the force of the current alor.3, though occasionally aided by spread- ing a sail, or by huge oars called sweeps. These floating islands of tim]jer, with huts here and there rising from their low sur- face, for the atoommodation of the raft-men, and another sin- gular sort of craft with long, low hulls, nowhere else known, and designed chiefly for the transport of timber of great length, contribute the more remarkable and picturesque features to the animating spectacle presented bj the navigation of this noble river ; while, from its high latitude, and from the character- istic phenomena of northern skies, the ordinary, as well as the nore grotesque, features referred to are accompanied by con- trasts in the golden grandeur of the sunsets, and in the varied splendor of the northern lights, both of which are so frequent and so remarkable, that they may be very fairly regarded as habitual, and from which the scenery of the St. Lawrence de- rives a magnificence and beauty probably unequaled. Port St. Francis, 83 miles below Montreal, is the next steamboat landing. Here the river again contracts to its usual iridth. Thrre Rivers, about half way between Montreal and Que- bec, is situated on the north side of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of the river St. Maurice ; nearly opposite to which, and of smaller volume, enters the river Becancour. Three Rivers |>8 an old town, having been settled by the French in 1618. I Here is a court-house and jail, a convent, a Romar Catholic church, and three Protestant churches ; a mechanics' institute, 328 MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. an academy, several pnblio houses, 40 stores, lumber-yards, a ship-yard and foundry ; also, other manufacturing establish- ments. The town contains about 6,000 inhabitants, and is a place 01 considerable trade and importance. This place has become a great lumber mart, caused by the opening up of the great timbe.' country in ita rear, on the banks of the St. Maurice. A visit to the wild and romantic Falls of Shawiiinagenne, about 25 miles up this river, will be found interesting ; it may be easily accomplished in one day, the road leading through a forest for most of the way, with here and there a hamlet to vary the scene. A part of the journey is usually performed in a bark canoe propelled by In- dians. On arriving at the falls, nothing but grandeur and solitude strikes the imagination. St. Anne, 25 miles below Three Kivers, stands on the north bank of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of a river of the same name. The Richelieu Rapids, 45 miles above Quebec, extend some eight or ten miles. The chftnnel of the river is here very nar- row and intricate, huge rocks being visible in many places dur- ing low water. In order to guide the mariner safely through these rapids, beacon lights are stationed at the more critical | points of the passage. Cape Sante, 30 miles from Quebec, is on the north side of the St. Lawrence, and on the opposite side is a settlement called I St. Trois. The banks of the river are here elevated some 60 or 80 feet above the water, and are almost perpendicular, from which the land extends away for many miles, with an almost | level surface. Cape Rouge, eight miles above Quebec, is next passed on the I left, when the citadel of Quebec comes into view, presenting a sight at once grand and deeply interesting, from the historical | events with which it is associated. The Chaudiere River, on the right, is much visited for the! sake of its beautiful falls, situated a short distance from its] entrance into the St. Lawrence QUEBEC. 329 I, lumber-yards, a ^turing establish- abitants, and i» a mart, caused by in its rear, on the jrild and romantic this river, will be ilished in one day, t of the way, with le. A part of the oe propelled by In- but grandeur and jtands on the north a river of the same Quebec, extend some )T is here very nar- T5 many places dur- iner safely through i i.t the more critical | n the north side of a settlement called elevated some 60 or perpendicular, from les, with an almost next passed oil the view, presenting a from the historical luch visited for the It distance from it* WoLFE*8 CoVe, two miles above Quebec, on the same side, is an interesting spot to strangers, for here the lamented Wolfe landed with his gallant army, in 1759, and ascended to the Plains of Abraham, where he fell a yictim to his heroic enter- prise. But he fell not alone. France mourned an equal loss in the fall of the brave and generous Montcalm. As the steamer approaches the wharf, the line of shipping, extending usually for two or three miles, gives life and interest to the scene below — while the towering citadel above produces emotions of wonder and delight. The city, or Lower Town, only as yet partly seen, soon opens to view, hugging the base of the rocky promontory. QUEBEC. The City of Quebec, a seaport, and most important naval and military depdt, is situated on the left bank of the river St. Lawrence, at the point where it is joined by the St. Charles, 170 miles below Montreal, and about 400 miles from the Gulf, bN. lat. 46° 49' 12'', W. long. 71° 15' 46". Population in 1831, 25,913; in 1844, 82,876; in 1852, 42,000, and in 1856, esti- , mated at 46,000, of which about two thousand are soldiers. As a fortress, Quebec may be justly ranked in the first class. I Words can hardly express the strength of its position without the aid of technical terms. The citadel, the Gibraltar of America, is approached by a zigzag pathway, with thirty-two pounders staring you in the face at every turn. When inside ibe fortress, it looks like a world of itself. The officers' barrack u a fine building, overlooking the St. Lawrence. The soldiers quarters are under the ramparts. The armories, magazines, Uad warlike ixr-nlements are immense. The military authori- ties are energetically at work putting the fortifications of Que- [bec into repair. The Quebec Mercury, of a late date, says : 'There is hardly a point at which the fortifications are not wkg repaired or improved. A new and very strong block- |Woae is making below the flag-staff, and very extensive works, as* 1 ■ , n' ■"■ 330 QUEBEC. of by no means anoient construction, above that point, have been condemned, and are now rebuilding in a more formidable manner, near where a new battery and draw-bridge outlet from the citadel have lately been constructed, communicating with the city over the northeastern glacis." i( The city is built on the extremity of a ridge terminating in the angle formed by the i unction of the two rivers on the point called Ca)/; Diamond, which here rises to the height of about 340 feet above the St. Lawrence. The cape is sur* mounted by the citadel, and the city extends from it principally in a N.E. direction, down to the water's edge. The old town, which lies wholly without the walls, partly at the foot of Cape Diamond, and around to the St. Charles, has narrow and, in parts, steep streets. The ascent from the upper to the lower portion of the city which crosses the line of the fortifications is by a winding street and by a flight of steps ; the streets in this section, though narrow, are generally clean, and well paved or macadamized. The public buildings and most of the houses are built of stone. The line of the fortifications stretches nearly across the peninsula in the west, and runs along a ridge between the upper and lower parts of the city. It is intersected by five gates, and has an inner circuit of about 2^ miles. Beyond the ramparts on the west are the extensive suburbs of St. Rocb, St. John, and St. Louis. Durham Terrace conuuands a pictur- esque view, having the lower part of the city in the foreground; and the shores and waters of the St. Lawrence extending far in | the distance. The Public Garden, on Des Carrieres Street, con* tains an elegant monument erected to the memory of Wolfe and I Montcalm. It is 65 feet high, and its design is very chaste and beautiful. This spot attracts great attention, and should be visited by every stranger. The Esplanade, railed off from, and situated between D'Auteuil Street and the ramparts, affords | delightful views of the surrounding country and river scenery. *' There are 174 streets in the city and suburbs, the principal of which are the following : St. John Street, the principal seat I of the retail trade; St. Louis Street, occupied by lawyers'! ofl&ces and private dwellings, is handsome and well-built; D'Auteuil Street, facing the Esplanade in the upper town, and in the lower town, St. Peter Street, in which most of the banks,] insurance companies, and merchants' offices are situated. There are also many other fine streets, and the appearance of I the city has been much improv^^d since the great fire of l84o| when nearly 2,000 buildings were destroyed, which have been replaced by others of a superior description. The streets lighted with gas, and the city is well supplied with water fron ^„ QUEBEC. 331 HI the St. Charles River. The Parliament House (destroyed hy I fire 1853) was an elegant pile of buildings, forming three sides of a square, now about being rebuilt in a much improved style. The Court House and City Hall are substantial stone edifices, I St. Louis Street, upper town. The Marine Hospital, a fine stone building, will accommodate 400 patients. The Lunatic Asylum at Beauport, 2 J miles from the city, is an extensive building, inclosed in a park of 200 acres. The Quebec Musical Hall, recently erected, is a substantial and well-built edifice, fitted for musical entertainments, etc. The Quebec Exchange, the Canadian Institute, the Literary and Historical Society, the Quebec Library Association, the Advocates' Library, etc., are I among the most noted and interesting institutions of Quebec. *< The Roman Catholic Cathedral is a large and commodious I building, but with no great pretensions to beauty of architec- ture; the interior is handsomely fitted up, and has several fine paintings ; the church will seat 4,000 persons. It has a fine Ichoir and a good organ. The Episcopal Cathedral is a hand- Isome edifice, 135 feet by 75 feet. It was erected in 1804, and I will seat between 3,000 and 4,000 persons. Trinity Church is la neat stone building, erected in 1824 ; it is handsomely fitted Inp. St. Andrew, Presbyterian Church, is 95 by 48 feet, and IwiU accommodate about 1,200 persons. There were, in 1852, lone Baptist, one Congregational, four Episcopal, one Free Pres- Ibyterian, two Methodist, one Presbyterian, and five Roman ICatholic churches. Quebec has three banks, and several bank jigencies, two savings' banks, and a number of insurance agen- The hotels are numerous, and several of them well-kept, usually thronged with visitors from the United States ad foreign parts during warm weather. "There are three nunneries, one of which, the Hotel Dieu, is ivery valuable hospital ; the nuns acting as nurses to the sick these establishments, and as instructresses of young females. Iiere are numerous religious and benevolent institutions, an fxchange, a board of trade, a mechanics' institute, etc. Among tie establishments for educational purposes, the first place is ne to the University of Quebec ; it has a principal, and profes- of theology, rhetoric, and mathematics, with five regents for be Latin and Greek classes. I "Though not a manufacturing town, Quebec has various ptiUeries, breweries, with tobacco, soap and candle works, and [Unbers of fine vessels have been launched from its ship-yards. lie chmate, though on the whole good and healthy, is ex- lely hot in summer and cold in winter. The majority of population is of French extraction, and the French lan- I is mostly spoken in the best circles, and the Roman liolic religion predominates." I 332 QUEBEC. Steamships and other sea-going Teasels of the largest burden come up to the whar^*^ of Quebec. Its harbor or basin between the city and the island of Orleans is of great extent, having in general about 28 fathoms %,atr^r, the tide rising from 16 to 18 feet at neaps, and from 24 to 30 feet at spring tides. The com- merce of the city is very extensive, the lumber trade alone | giving employment to a great number of ships during the sea* son of navigation, From May to November. Quebec has a regu- lar intercourse, by means of steamers, with Montreal and ports I higher up the St. Lawren( e and the Ottawa River ; also with | Ilalifax, Liverpool, and other ports on both sides the Atlantic. The Grand Trunk Railway is now so far finished as to I afford speedy communication with St. Thomas, 49 miles below | Quebec, with Portland, Me., Montreal, Kingston, Toronto, etc. Its passenger and freight depots are situated at Point Levi, I opposite Quebec, the two places being connected by steam ferries. Steamers also run to different ports below Quebec, and during warm weather make trips to the lower St. Lavn-ence and Sague-| nay rivers. The following description of the city of Quebec is taken from| Mr. Buckingham's late interesting work on Canada, etc. : " The situation of Quebec is highly advantageous, in a com- mercial as well as a military point of view, and its appearancel is very imposing, from whatever quarter it is first approached.! Though at a distance of four hundred miles up from the sea, thel magnificent river on which it is seated is three miles in breadthl a little below the town, and narrows in to about a mile inl breadth immediately abreast of the citadel ; having, in bothj these parts, sufficient depth of water for the largest ships in the world— a rise and fall of twenty feet in its tides — and space enough in its capacious basin, between Cape Diamond on the one hand, and the Isle of Orleans on the other, to afford roor and anchorage for a thousand sail of vessels at a time, shelter from all winds, and perfectly secure ! A small river, the St.| Charles, has its junction with the St. Lawrence a little to the north of the promontory of Cape Diamond, and affords a favor-j able spot for ship-building and repairs, as well as an excellentj winter-harbor for ships lying up dismantled. " The citadel of Quebec occupies the highest point of Cap Diamond, being elevated 350 feet above the river, and present 'd. QUEDBC. 333 ing almost perpendicular cliffs toward the water. The city is built from the water's edge along the foot of these cliffs, round tlie point of the promontory, and ascending upward from thence •0 the very borders of the citadel it&jlf. It is divided into the I Lower and Upper Town, the former including all that is below the ramparts or fortified lines, the latter comprehending all that I is above and within that barrier. Besides these, there is a large I suburb, separated from Quebec proper by the ramparts, and gome open lawn beyond these on the west, called the suburb of St. Roch, on the right bank of the river St. Charles, the only I portion of the whole that is built on level ground. " On landing at Quebec, therefore, the traveler has to wind Ibis way up through steep, narrow, and tortuous streets, with still narrower alleys on his right and left, till he reaches the fortified line or barrier. Here he enters by Prescott Gate, on the right of which, after passing through it, he sees the impos- ing structure of the New Parliament House (since destroyed by fire), with its lofty cupola and fine architectural front; and on the left, a double flight of mean and straggling wooden steps, leading to one of the oldest streets, as an avenue to the Place d'Armes. Going across this last, he passes the English ant] French cathedrals, the government offices, and palace of justice on his right ; and has the site of the old castle of St. Lewis, and the platform overlooking the harbor, on his left. Passing by these, and continually ascending for about half a mile beyond, he reaches the ramparts and gates on the upper side of the city ; I tad going through these, he comes to the open lawn in front of Ithe glacis, beyond which is the suburb of St. Roch, on the level |ground along the southern bank of the St. Charles River. " The plan of the city is as irregular as the greatest enemy |of symmetry could desire. The steepness of the ascent from the IriTer to the plain above is no doubt one cause of this, because jit was only by making the ascending streets winding and tor- Itaous that they could be got over at all ; but besides this, the jinequalities in the surface even of the Upper Town led to other Ipr^ularities in the form and direction of the streets ; while the ii^e space occupied by the old religious establishments, still ler curtailing the linee in different directions, so cut up he area, that there is not a single street in all Quebec which in compare in length, breadth, or general good appearance to l»8 King Street of Toronto or the Notre Dame of Montreal, "lie streets of Quebec are, therefore, in general short, narrow, ■ooked, steep, wretchedly paved in the center, still worse pro pded with sidewalks, and not lighted with lamps at night The rate dwellings are in general destitute of architectural tuty, and small and incommodious ; some few are of wood, He of brick, but the greatest number are of rough-hewn I! 4'f 1 1] 834 QUEBEC. It *' ■■•fi n stone, with high, stoep roofs, containing a double row of pro- jecting garret windows, very lofty chimneys, and the roofs principally covered with sheets of tin. ' The shops are aUo small and mean, and greatly inferior in the extent and variety of their contents to those of Montreal and Toronto ; though thel prices charged are, as we t^.ought, higher hero than in eitherj of these. *♦ The public buildings are acattorod over the ci«*.y with sol much irregularity, that their position seems to be as much thel eflfeot of accident as design. Several i»f them, however, are sol promir ently placed and advantageously seen, that they relieve,! in some degree, the general monotony of the mass of onlinaryf houses, an? are thus far ornamental to the town ; while the spires of the churches, the dome of the Parliament House, and other elevated points rising from the general surface, with their tinned roofs glittering in the sun, give a liveliness and varietj to the picture presented by the city , from every point of viewj which no other place in Canada, and indeed few places on th« globe, present. " The earliest of the public buildings erected in Quebec wa undoubtedly the castle of St. Lewis, of which Champlain laid the foundation on the 6th of May, 1024. The position chosen for it was a most commanding one, on the very edge of an al| most perpendicular precipice of rock 200 feet above the river) yet close to its edge; as, between the clitf and the strean there is only just room enough for one narrow avenue, calle Champlain Street. The castle erected here was regarded as thd palace of the French governors, who received in it the fealti and homage of the several seigneurs holding their lands accordj ing to the feudal tenure of the times. Nor is this practice dis] continued ; for, according to Mr. Hawkins, in his Picture off Quebec i the sovereignty of England having succeeded to thai of France, with all its ancient rights and privileges, the kingj representative, in the person of the English governor, receive the same homage at the present day as was paid by the seigj neurs of former times ; this being one of the conditions on whicf the feudal tenure is sustained. His words are these : " ' Fealty and homage are rendered at. this day (1834) by tlij seigneurs to the governor, as the representative of the sovereij in the following form : His Excellency being in full dress, anj seated in a state-chair, surrounded by his staff, and attende by the Attorney-General, the Seigneur in an evening dress, ia\ wearing a sword, is introduced into his presence by the Insp tor-General of the Royal Domain and Clerk of the Land Rol] Haying delivered up his sword, he kneels on one knee before!' Governor, and placing his right hand between those of < GoYemor, he repeats aloud the ancient oath of fidelity ; aft^ QUEBXC, 885 ■m 1 ble row of pro-l*^'^^ ^ solemn act is drawn up in a register kept for that pur- ^^^ and the roofs ■l**°' ^^^^^^ *8 signed by the Governor and Seigneur, and coun- rf o alioDS are alaol^'^^'K'^®^ ^^ *^® proper officers.' t ntwid variety ■ **^^ ^^^^ castle the French and English governors resided ^^ \o ' thoujrh theB*'^^ 1809, when it was found necessary to erect a temporary h^^" than in eitherl"'^ building for their use while the old one underwent repair ; lind £10,000 were expended for this purpose under the admin- the ci^v with soB'*^''"'^^^ ®^ ^^' James Craig. After this it continued to be the ^^ t be as much theB**** ^^ government as before ; and all the proclamations and ^^ ^ however are Jweating of the wild war drum ; And the last shout, " They fly !" once more On fancy's vision come. And marching round the hero's bed, Witli banners floating free and fair ; Are seen the host he nobly led For England's glory there. But years have passed, and silence reigns Where once was heard the battle cheer ; Of aU the trophies naught remains— This, only this, is here. A broken column ! brief, yet high The eulogy its words convey ; Thus in the triumph hour to die, Breathes net of earth's decay. Wolfe fell in the moment of victory, and Montcalm, who ^| mortally wounded in the action, expired soon after. Tb^ French, panic-struck by the loss of the battle and the deati of their commander-in-chief, surrendered the city before ere a single battery had been opened against it. This importAnlj event, which transferred the possession of Canada from French to the English nation, occurred on the 18th Sept., 1759] QUEBEC. 337 The following is an English account of the attack on Quebec |by Montgomery and Arnold, in 1775 and 1776 : " At the period of the American Revolution, it is well known I that Canada did not join the revolted colonies, but continued prm in her allegiance to the Crown ; and hence it became the hand of refuge to the many loyalists who were driven from the United States by the success of their war of Independence. As it was believed, however, by the Americans of that day, that an attack on Quebec would be successful, and if so, would induce all Canada to join their cause, such an attack was planned, and ita execution committed to two American generals, Montgomery and Arnold. The British troops usually retained in Canada for its defense had been bent on to Boston, so that the province was almost destitute cf military force, there being scattered through- out all Canada only about 800 men. In this state of things I Gen. Montgomery advanced from Lake Champlain on St. John's, lind after a short resistance took it ; he then marched on against iMontreal, which being perfectly defenseless, surrendered to the American arms on the 12th of November, 1775. At the same Itime Gen. Arnold was known to Montgomery to be advancing Itoward Quebec, from the New England States, by way of the Kennebec River through Maine, which at this late period of the year was a most daring undertaking. After passing thirty- two days in the wild forests and swamps, and suffering almost in- [credible hardships and privations in this hitherto untrodden Iwilderness, Arnold and his followers reached the banks of the ISt. Lawrence, by the Chaudiere River, on the 4th of November, in the same year. From thence they descended to Point Levi, opposite to Quebec, where they arrived on the 9th, crossed over on the night of the 13th, and landed 600 men at Wolfe's Cove Iwithout being perceived either by the sentries or from the ships I of war. "On the 1st of December this force was joined by a much I larger one under General Montgomery, from Montreal. By these two the city was invested, and several bombardments of it made with shot and shells, but without producing much effect. A night attack was at length determined on by Mont- ((omery on the southern, and Arnold on the northern, side of the Lower Town. Both attacks were made with great courage ttd impetuosity, but both failed. In the former. Gen. Mont- gomery and nearly all his personal staff were killed ; in the Utter, Gen. Arnold was wounded, and with most of his follow- ers taken prisoners. The loss of the Americans in these attacks |va8 upward of 100 killed and wounded, and of the British, ly one naval officer killed, and seventeen men killed and I wounded. The Americans did not, however, give up the attempt 29 p. »'"' 338 QUEBEC. to reduce Quebec ; as, during all the winter following they con- tin'ied to receiye reinforcements, and to invest the town; and in the spring of the year ensuing, May, 1776, they renewed their attack on the citadel. Gen. Carleton, the English com- mander of the garrison, having received an important accession to his force by the arrival of a small squadron undeif the com- mand of Sir Charles Douglas, bringing to his aid provisions, ammunition, and men, was enabled to baffle every attempt made on the city, and ultimately to make a sally on the enemy, when| they retreated, and abandoned their post. *' This was the last attack made on Quebec by any foreign I foe, and as since that period thr citadel has been gradually strengthened and improved, undei every successive governor of the province, it is now in a condition to resist ten times the force] eve- yet brought against it, and could not, so long as it con- tained supplies of pruvisionfi, and an adequate number of brarel and faithful msn, be conquered by any force likely to be brought| against it from this continnnt." General Montgomery. — A tablet has been placed onthel rock of Cape Diamond, near the spot where General Montgomery | fell, with his two aids-de-camp, Majors McPherson and Cheese- man, at Prcs-de-ville, in the attack upon Quebec by the Amer- ican forces, in the winter of 1775-0. The tablet is raised about Miy :^eet from the road, and bean| the following inscription : here MAJOR-GENERAL MONTGOMERY FELL, DECEMBER 31ST, 1775. *< It has long been a matter of surprise to our neighbors of| the Unit'ed States, who, during the summer months, pour in i continual stream of visitors to our celebrated city, that no clue could be found by them to indicate the spot where Montgomery! fell. The event must ever remain memorable in our colonial history as terminating the last hostile struggle before the city of Quebec. *< Quebec is much indebted to the late Mr. Hawkins for th^ labor he Las bestowed in bringing before the public the vari^ historical reminiscences connected with the city, and this tab- let, erectem Milcn. KlUKOton. 22 52 67 64 70 76 78 83 85 96 100 110 113 126 142 147 149 152 153 171 180 225 235 270 305 8r)0 QUEBKC 45 Distance from Quebec to Niagara Falls, 570 miles. nt in the St. Lawrence River, from Kingston to Quebec, feet. m m iit\i m TRIP FROM QUEBEC TO THE SAGUENAY RIVER. As a trip down the St. Lawrence to Riviere du Loup, Ka- koaua, and the far-famed river Saguenay has, within the last few years, become a fashionable and exceedingly interesting steamboat excursion, we subjoin an account of such trip made by the author some few years since. As the steamboat left the wharf, she took a graceful turn up stream, passing a 74 gun- ship of the Royal Navy, and then tie- Bcended, running close under Point Levi, affordi*^ ^ a fine view of the city and citadel of Quebec. The beautiful line of settlements below the cl.jr, on the same side of the river, next attracts attention ; the view in the distance being bounded by hills, apparently elevated 1,500 to 2,000 feet above the waters of the St. Lawrence. The romantic Falls of Montmorenei, seven miles below Qaebec, are seen to great advantage from the deck of the steamer, plunging over an almost perpendicular precipice of 240 feet directly into this great river. Immediately below, on the bank of the St. Lawrence, was fought a severe battle between the English and French armies, a short time previous to the capture of Quebec by Gen. Wolfe, in 1769, in which the British were repulsed with considerable loss. The IsLAXD OF Orleans is next passea on the left, descend^ ing the river through the principal ship channeL This is a fertile tract, 20 miles long by five or six wide, and in part ccv jred with & beautiful growth of forest. It rises from 50 to 100 feet above the water, and the stream of the St. Lawrence being here divided, the aspect of the shores at once reminds ycu of the scenery of the Hudson River above the Highlands. It has a population of about 7,000 souls, and produces the finest fruit in Lower Canada, excepting that raised in the vicinity of Montreal. J 346 QUEBEC TO THE SAOUENAT RIVER, ETC. w Bt. Patrick's Hole, eleyen miles below Quebec, on the Orleans shore, affords a fine anchorage for yessels of the largest size. It WPS here, some 30 years ago, that the immense timber ship was built, supposed to be the largest yessol, by far, that ever crossed the Atlantic. The Parish of St. Laurent, 14 miles below Quebec, is hand- somely situated on the southeast side of the island, which is set- tled exclusively by French Canadians, mostly engaged in culti- vating the soil. The dwellings have a remarkably neat look, being one story high, with both roof and sides painted white. The southeast shore of the St. Lawrence, for many miles be- low Point Levi, presents a succession of villages and haraletii, consisting each of a cluster of houses with a church standing in the midst, and with its aspect of guardianship and guidance to the families dwelling around, imparting to the landscape a moral expression, which greatly enhances its picturesque beauty. The vessels usually seen on this part of the St. Lawrence are of the larger class of merchant ships. The arrivals at the port of Quebec average some 1,400 to 1,500 annually, mostly from Great Britain, and besides other colonial produce, they carry back immense quantities of timber and lumber. Madam Island, 26 miles from Quebec, is one of several small islands lying below Orleans. The river here widens to ten miles, which gradually increases all the way to its mouth ; and for most of the distance there are two ship channels, called the north and south channels, the latter being the best and most navigated. Cape Tourment, 30 miles below Quebec, is a bold promon- tory on the northwest side of the river rising to the height of about 2,000 feet, and seen at a great distance. Here the scen- ery is truly grand. Gkosse Island, opposite Cape Tourment, is the Quarantint station for vessels ascending the river, and it has a hospital, a Roman Catholic chapel, and other buildings usually connected with such an establishment. QUEBEC TO THE 8AGURNAY UIVER, ETC. 347 ce. Here the seen- St. Thomas, 40 miles from Quebec, on the southeast shoid, is situated at the mouth of a stream called South River. The shore of the St. Lawrence is lined with a succession of dwellings for many miles below, with high grounds rising in the distance, beyond which may occasionally be seen the hills formerly claimed by the Americans, as the boundary between the Stut3 of Maine and Canada. Here terminates the Grand Trunk Railway for the present, but will be extended soon some 100 miles farther, to Trois Pistoles. Crane Island, 45 miles below Quebec, is fertile and settled. Its north end is adorned with the delightful residence of the Seigneur. GooBE Island, 60 miles from Quebec, is owned by the Nuns, and is cultivated as a farm, by tenants. The Pillars, GO miles below Quebec, is the name given to several small rocky islets, on one of which stands a light-house. Here the scenery is peculiarly grand and interesting. The vast estuary of the river below looks indeed like an opening to the ocean. The shores for some ten mileb onward are studded with shining residences, while the hills in the distance, on both sides, resemble very much the scenery bordering the widest part of Lake Champlain. Sixty-five miles below Quebec is the remarkable channel called the Traverse. A floating light guides the mariner by night through this narrow and dangerous passage. Isle aux Coudrks (Isle of Filberts) is a large body of land lying toward the north shore, opposit3 the Bay of St Paul's, and about 65 miles from Quebec. It is said that when Jacques Cartier anchored here, on his first voyage of discovery up the St. Lawrence, he gave this island the name it yet bears, froTu the quantity of filberts, or hazel nuts, which he found there. St. Anne stands on the southeast shore, on a bay of the same name. Here is a Catholic college and a settlement of consider- able size, about 70 miles from Quebec. As yon approach Goose Cape, 75 miles below Quebec, the banks of the river seem to decline in the distance; the river si I «-;.t- 348 QUKBEO TO THB BAOUENAT RIVER, ETC. now being iVoo of islands, presents a largo expanses of water, here being about 18 miles wide. Murray Bay, 80 miles below Quebec, lies on the northwest side of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of a river of the same name, lliis is a fine section of country, producing wheat ai J other kinds of grain in abundance. Beyond this place is seen ,\ beautiful range of hills, terminating at Cape Eagle and Capo Salmon on the east. This dcHghtful place has become, within a few years, a fashionable sunmer resort for the Canadians. Kamouraska, situated 00 miles below Quebec, on the south- east side of the river, contains about 1,600 inhabitants, and ia surrounded by a fruitful district. Vessels can land here only at high water ; at low water, passengers are taken ashore in small boats. In the rear of this village are seen abrupt and sterile hills with little or no verdure. In front are two or three smoU islands, chiefly resorted to for fishing and bathing, this being a favorite resort, during the summer months, for the citizens of Montreal and Quebec, and is no doubt destined to become a fashionable watering-place, where sea-bathing can be enjoyed by invalids and seekers of pleasure. About 106 miles below Quebec are the Pilgrim Islands, a group of rocky islets which are passed to the right. On the left, a few miles below, is Hare Island^ near the middle of the river. The settlement at the Riviere du Loup, 110 miles below Quebec, on the southeast side of the St. Lawrence, contains about 1,600 inhabitants. Here commences the great road from the St. Lawrence River to the St. John's, by the way of ihe Mada- waska River and settlement. Cacona or Eakouna, 120 miles below Quebec is a fashion- able sea-bathing resort. Red Island lies off the mouth of the Saguenay, this being the first island of the small group met on ascending the St Lawrence. It is destitute of a light, and has caused many ship- wrecks during the prevalence of fogs and stovms, so frequent on the lower part of the river and Gulf of St, Lawrence. Greeic Island lies nearly opposite Red Island, on the southeast. [VKR, ETC. QUEDRC TO T>IK 8A0UBNAT KIVBR, ETC. 349 expan8\) of water, Quebec is a fashion- RIVER DU LOUP AND KAKOUNA. From the pen of a talented Correspondent of the Montreal Ga»ett4. ** Riviere du Loup is a prettily situated Tillage, taking its n^iiie troii; its river, which river has been made available for the purpo8(j8 of an extensive saw-mill, a water-power being created by its preoi;)itation over a ridge of rocks, which form tl e very beautiful Biviere du Loup Falls. There are a few ** fuglish" settlers (the word being used in its general sense as distiLguish- ing from " Fiiiuch"), and a clergyman of the Church of Eigland IB stationed here. Six miles from Hivicre du Loup is the village of " Kakoun A," to adopt the Indian and more euphonious name, which is effectually supplanting the corruptions of " Cacona" ami '• Cocoui" now in vogue. Kakouna is formed into a village,, from the invariable custom of placing the houses on the front of the farms. It is prettily situated on a high ridge, along which passes the highway. Behind the ridge on which the village stands, gently slopes a valley, which is well cultivated, ascend- ing gradually till it attains a considerable elevation at the rear concession, where another village and church are placed. In front of the Kakouna ridge a cuk'^oiu Oi*" trees intervenes between the village and the beach. The yleyf from Kakouna is very pleasing. The river stretches out before it in a noble width of twenty-five miles. The farther shore is a continuous succession of mountains. Amid them opens up the scarcely visible em- bouchure of thtf Saguenay. Up the river the pilgrim rocks look grim and solitary. Midway, Hare Island rises from the sur* rounding waters. Below, Kakouna Island projects into the- river, forming a bay. Sunset at Kakouna sometimes presents aa enchanting spectacle. The gently rippling waters gleam and shine with the sparkling luster derived from the rays of the dei.'lining sun. The brilliant coloring and changeful hues of the evening sky appear to rest upon the somber mountains, which, begirt midway with a zone of gray mist, contrast strangely with the gleaming dark blue river which laves their base. Far as the eye can reach, the wide expanse glitters, as if set with gems of every hu' —its calm repose unbroken, save by the numerous vessels which, with their white sails floating on the breeze, pro- claim the industry of man and his power over the elements, or by the &.iores of the islets which, bathed in light, rise from its surface. When a storm, too, rises, the river wears a peculiar grandeur, and the mind is irresistibly impressed witli a sense of iU majesty, and led to a contemplation from nature up to nature's God. " But, to pass on from this digression, a word or two as to th' advantages of Kiviere du Loup and Kakouna as watering-place Now easy of aoc^s, with a telegraph at Kiviere du Loup and a 80 mr 350 QUEBEC TO THE 8AGUENAY RIVER, ETC. daily mail, these places are every year becoming more resorted to. There is now much increased accommodation at Kakouna, where are two large and commodious hotels, and a good board- ing-house. These contain many yisitors, but many families are accommodated in the farm-houses — renting these and providing for themselves. This is a comfortable and independent plan. The houses are improving in accommodation ; the practice is be- ginning to be established of the Canadian families having a Hnialler house, to which they betake themselves so as to give to the V sitors control of the whole of the farm-house A few home comforts will naturally be wanting, but life in Kakouna is no; without its attractions, and the deprivation of a few comtoris m;vke3 one appreciate them more keenly when regained A baker leaves regularly at the houses good bread. Beef, poultry. mutton, salmon, herrings, pigeon, sardines, eggs, milk, and butter present a bill of fare that shows there is no danger of starving, while strawberries, raspberries, and blueberries aro besides to be had in the greatest abundance. The strawberry grows in peculiar profusion, eTid of a singularly excellent quality, attaining often a large size. The children of the vil- lage reap a harvest while they continue. The sportsman will not find much game, through trout are abundant in the streams j and lakes. There are, it may be remarked, attractive places for walks and drives, however. But the main recommendation of the two places in question, is the comparative moderation of the tempera;ture, and the fact that open air exercise can. at all j periods of the day, be enjoyed. The heat is never excessive, but the air of the evening is often decidedly cool. On the whole, these watering-places of the St. Lawrence will no doubt continue | to attract a steady annual Stream of visitors, desirous of luxuri- ating in a cool atmospheie and enjoying sea-bathing, while I ether places on the Lower St. Lawrence, presenting equal or | greater advantages, will no doubt in due course come into no- tice, and prove desirable places of resort so soon as the necessary | facilities for reaching them shall have been supplied." As you approach the mouth of the Saguenay River, the] waters take a very black hue, perceivable for many miles below, and extending far into the St. Lawrence. Just within the mouth I of the river, near Tadousac, there is a round mountain peak, called Tite du Boule^ about 800 feet high, while on the oppositej bank there is another bold eminence. Tadousac, 140 miles below Quebec, is situated on the north" west shore of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth, of the Saguenayj River. This is a post belonging to the Hudson Bay Company. IVER, ETC. in; the practice is be- QUEBEC TO THE 6AGUENAY RIVER, ETC, 351 «nd is the residence of one of its partners and an agent. They alone are allowe*^! to trade with the Indians in the interior, who occasionally visit this place, but more frequently Chicoutimi, at the head of navigation on the Saguenay, and the post at the Lake of St. John, where some of the company's agents also re- side. At Tadousac is a Roman Catholic chapel, a store, and warehouse, and some eight or ten dwellings. Here is erected a flag-staflf, surrounded by several pieces of cannon, on an emi- nence elevated about 60 feet and overlooking the inner harbor, where is a sufficient depth of water to float the largest vessels. This place was early settled by the French, who are said to have here erected the first dwelling built of stone and mortar in Canada, and the remains of it are still to be seen. The view is exceedingly picturesque from this point. The southern shore of the St. Lawrence, may be traced even with the naked eye for many a league — the undulating lines of snow-white cottages stretching far away, both east and west — while the scene is rendered gay and animated by the frequent passage of the merchant vessel plowing its way toward the port of Quebec, or hurrying upon the descending tide to the Gulf — while from the summit of the hill upon which Tadousac stands, the sublime and impressive scenery of the Saguenay rises into view. We extract from the Report of the Commissioners for cxplor- |ing the Saguenay, published in 1829, the following : " Upon landing at Tadousac, we proceeded immediately to lexamiiie a few of the geognostical characters of the couniry. I The only place of residence here is erected on a h9n\ of sandy alluvium, elevated about fifty feet above the river, and forming a flat terrace at the base of the mountain, which suddenly I emerges at a short distance behind. The rocks of which the.se jmountains are composed is granite, either of a red or gray color, |(lepetiding upon that of the feldspar. On the shore were seen Ismail deposits of magnetic iron. Here bases were measured, land the requisite angle taken, for determining the height of the* I most elevated point, on either side of the Saguenay, at its I mouth, and this was found to be 012 feet on the westerly side, and 588 on the opposite " 352 6AGUENAY RIVER. L*ANCE A L*EAU,or Water Harbor, situated on the Sague- nay, about a half a mile above Tadousac, is the name of a set- tlement where is an extensive lumber establishment. The St. Lawrenck River, below the mouth of the Sagupnay, assumes an imposing appearance, gradually widening until its breadth exceeds one hundred miles. THE 8AGUENAY. " This river has its mouth, according to common computation, 130 miles below Quebec, on the north shore of the St. Lawrence, in latitude 48 deg. 6 min. 38 sec. long., 70 deg. 40 min. west from Greenwich. It discharges a much greater body of water than any other river that falls into the St. Lawrence. Indeed, it is the largest river in North America, the St. Lawrence ex- cepted, east of the Alleghanies. " It takes the name of Saguenay only below Lake St. John, which lies about 120 miles N. by W. of Quebec. From Tadou- sac, a distance of about 140 miles to the lake, the course of the river is nearly east and west, Tadousac being, as before stated, in lat. 48 dog. 6 min. 38 sec., and the south side of Luke St. John in 48 deg. 23 min. 12 sec, giving only 16 miles to the north of Tadousac." This lake, which is nearly circular, is about 40 miles across, and it is the center of an extensive region, the waters of which flow into it from the north, the west, and the south, in twelve principal rivers, being discharged to the east by the Saguenay. The streams which flow into this lake from the south, the west, and the northwest have their sources in a mountainous tract which ranges nearly east and west for a long distance, and then, far in the west, bends northwardly, separating these waters from those which seek the St. Lawrence above Quebec and the Ottawa ; and i'eg uding them in their still wider rela- tions, they are part of the extensive range of highlands ^vhich divide the basin of the St Lawrence from that of Hudson Bay and its tributaries. " The country, the waters of which are discharged in'o the St. Lawrence by the Saguenay, is more extensive than nil tho rest of Lower Canada; but it has till lately coutninol. pi'<'b ably, not more than a few hundred Indian fam'l oa. who live hy ]h 8AOUBNAY RIVER. 853 Bited on the Sague- ,he name of a set- shment. hof theSaguj'nay, widening until its mmon computation, »f the St. Lawrence, I deg. 40 min. west jater body of water Lawrence. Indeed, le St. Lawrence ex- ;low Lahe St. John, ebec. From Tadou- ke, the course of the ng, as before stated, ith side of Luke St. )nly 16 miles to tlie )Out 40 miles across, the waters of wliich the south, in twelve ,st by the Saguenay. from the south, the les in a mountainous for a long distance, ily, separating these wrence above Quebec heir still wider rela- ;e of highlands which that of Hudson Bay discharged in'^o the tx tensive than all the itely contain?.!, pn.b- Ijunl 03-, wliO Uvi hy hunting and fishing, and exchange their surplus with lessees of the King's Post, for a few articles of imported produce. " The passage of the waters of the Saguenay from below the Ha- Ha Bay to the St. Lawrence, a distance of fifty Liiles, is one of the wonders of nature. They penetrate through a mount- ainous tract, composed of sienite granite, forming an immense canal in manj places, with banks of perpendiculr r rocks rising from a thousand to fifteen hundred feet above the surface of the river, which is from a hundred to a hunared ana fifty fathoms deep nearly the whole way, and from a mile to three miles broad. The power and pride of u\B,n is as much humbled in some parts of this tremendous chasm, as in the immediate pres- ence of Niagara Falls. Tn many places the largest vessel may run close to the perpendicular rocks, with 100 fathoms water. There are, however, several coves with good anchorage. In Ha-Ha Bay the navy of England might ride, in from five to eighty fathoms. At twelve miles below Chicoutimi, which is distant 68 miles from Tadousac, the spring tide rises 18 feet, and there is from 10 to 50 fathoms at low water. The tide rises and the river is navigable seven miles above Chicoutimi, whore the rapids of the outlet of Lake St. John commence. At this point a range cf highlands crosses the Saguenay, extending along the head waters of the Malbay, the Goufi're, the Jacques Carticr, St. Anne, Batiscan, and St. Maurice, and forming the south and western side of the basin of Lake St. John, with the Hudson Bay highlands on the north and east. " It is" only within a few years that there have been any agri- cultural settlcrc in the Baguenay country. At present there are a few hundred families of stjwitttrs from the north shore below Quebec, chiefly induced to go in by employment in lum- bering, etc., for Mr. Price's numerous sawmills. At lla-IIa Bay there is a church, and about 150 families, and openings are made at various places on the river. The soil is of disin- tegrated clay >>nd gran'te, with limestone in some places. The general level of the land above Ha-Ha Bay, as far as the eye can reach from the river, is not higher than the island of Or- leans, aj though more broken. The timber nxixed, i^ard and soft, and of a middling growth. The climate is milder, if any- thing, than at Quebec. VVirh the exception of the ridge cross- ing below Lake St. John, already mentioned, the country to a gre{\t extent roun enormous masses of rock called Eternity Point and Cape Trinity. They rise from the water's edge to the height of some 1,500 feet, and so abruptly that they can almost be touched with the hand from the deck of the passing steamer. The aspect of these mountain cliffs is beyond expression grand. No man can pass along their base, and lift his eyes up their vast height, without awe— without experiencing the most intense emotions of sublimity. Sheltered between them is a lovely recess of the shore called Trinity Cove, its sequestered and lonely beauty enhanced by its strong con- trast with +j,e wild grandeur of the rest of the scene. {See JEj.'i graving.) R, iSTO. QUKBEO TO TUB 8A0UKNAY RIVEK, ETC. 855 sr of all appear- n5»»j( oil ii'G north iior.iVi. Ii«re the dure increases as rer inclino" to the em course to Chi- , the St. Viawrence, idth, with a great ., about sixty miles )re, a few miles up, water, bear a i3trik- rugged appearance L may v.e passed by ^, tm. trout may be jn the north shore, \iihzv establishments le Sa^jjuenay. )usac, on the south Lsses of rock called fThey rise from the jet, and so abruptly hand from the ded ^se mountain cliffs is iss along their base, ithout awe- without LbUmity. Sheltered called Trinity Cove, by its strong con- of the scene. (»^^^ Triwitt Cape tp,V'«: its name from the three peeks of it» •^.^TTrlt, bearing somo redcmblance to three humay heads ; and ihe name of Eternity Point is aburidfi"it!j induated br tne huge pile of ever-duri'ig rock of which it is compoaed. The whole scene — the majestic river, a hundred fathoms deep, roll- ing along the base and in the shadows of the vast and beetling cUflfs, bearing on their rocky fronts the impress of Almighty power and everlasting duration — the whole scene at this place is unsurpassed for its magnificence and solemn beauty. Continuing up the Saguenay, Statue Point is next passed, where formerly was to be seen a rock in a niche, high above the water, which resembled a huge human figure. The niche is still visible, but the figure has fallen into the deep wator. The Tablcau is an upright rock, rising almost perpendic- ularly from the water, to the height of several hundred feet, situated on the south shore. The scenery in this vicinity, and for several miles belaw, is exceedingly grand and picturesque — high and precipitous hills, clothed with a stunted growth of forest trees, and all around a wild solitude, unbroken by a sign of habitation or life, except occasionally a huge porpoise showing his back above the wave, and the water-fowl peculiar to these northern latitudes. Fifty-eight miles from Tadousac opens the Ha-Ha, or Great Bay, as it is sometimes called. It is entered on the left, while the Saguenay proper comes down on the right. At the head of the bay there is a large settlement, with several extensive saw-mills. The Bay of Ha-TIa — a name by no means euphonious or worthy of the locality — contains a numerous population for so [Dew a country. Two villages appear at the farther extremity, the population whereof must number at least five hundred souls; it is situated about sixty miles above the entrance, and so closely does it resemble the Saguenay, that it is only when the traveler has arrived at its extremity that the mistake is pere^iived. The streams which flow into this bay furnish the hsirioup .• vA'^- mills with the power of preparing deals for the 356 QUEBEC TO THE SAOUEXAT RIVER, ETC. L2iil^^ ,iiiL< A Englisli market — and it is not an uncommon occurrence to be- hold three or four square-rigged Tcssels busily engaged load- ing on English account. All the lumber establishments throughout the country are owned by the firm of Messrs. Price & Co., of Quebec, and although they entered the trade in the first instance with the intent of furthering their own interests, the result has been that the men they employed haye become settlers, and brought into cultivation a large tract of t>^&b\6 land. From the entrance to Ha-IIa Bay to Chicoutimi, a distance of about twelve miles, the banks of the river are less rugged and are clothed with more verdure, and openings may now be seen on both shores, with occasionally a habitation. About eight miles below Chicoutimi there is a bar, which can be passed by vessels of a large size only when the tide is up, this being the first impediment to navigation in ascending this noble river, which for grandeur of scenery and depth of water may vie with any other stream on the American continent. Chicoutimi, 68 miles from Tadousac, situated at the junc- tion 0/ the Chicoutimi River with the Saguenay, where is a pic- turesque water-fall, is another post occupied by the Hudson Bay CoDjpaDy, which has a resident agent stationed here. The settlement now contains an extensive saw-mill, a few dwell- ings., and a venerable-looking Roman Catholic chapel, of small dim.;asions, erected in 1727. It is one of those stations where, in former days, the indefatigable Jesuits established a home foT* themselves ; a church yet remains to attest their religious aeal. This edifice is believed to have been one of the first eve pied in Canada. The locality selected is singularly pictur- c;>qi!?^ and romantic. On one side the Saguenay pours down its I might y flood, the shores on either side covered to the water's edge With the most luxuriant foliage, while, on the other side, a safe and commodious bay receives the mountain torrent of tliej Ciacoutimi River. The church, a peculiarly agreeable object in so remote »j spoc, stands about 100 yards from the margin of the stream, m QUEBEC TO THE SAQUBNAT RIVER, ETC. 357 the center of a plat of green-sward set out with shrubbery, and forest trees crown the rising ground in the rear. Here assem- ble at stated periods the children of the soil; some from the region ef the far north — the faith which their fathers were taught in earlier ages leading them to reverence a spot hal- lowed by traditional associations. The steamboat nayigation of the Saguenay ends here, as the riyer above this is obstructed by rapids and falls. Fifty miles above Ghicoutimi, the river issues from Lake St. John, which is a fine expanse of water of about 80 miles in length, and, in the widest part, the same in breadth, its superficial area being over 600 square miles. The rivers Mistasine, Assuapmous' toiUi PeriboneOf and Ouatchoanish ^ all of which are large streams, and many smaller ones, empty into Lake St. John, and as its only outlet is the Saguenay, which also receives many considerable streams in its course, the great depth and volume of water in that river may be thus accounted for. A portage roady or foot-path, runs from Ghicoutimi to the Hudson Bay Company's station on Lake St. John. Lake St. John, the Saguenay, and the rivers which they I receive, abound in excellent fish, consisting of white fish, bass, 1 trout, dor 6, carp, pike, eels, and others; the favorite salmon, during the spring and summer months, ascends the Saguenay for a considerable distance, and are taken in largo quantities and shipped to Quebec; also cured and sent to European mar- [kets. "The region of the Saguenay can not long remain silent and )een one of the first ■nnoccupied. It is destined to become the }iome of an active . ^vi^arlv pictur- Bwid enterprising race. The climate is well adapted to the \s sin^, V j^g ■purposes of agriculture, and the virgin soil can not ^il to repay kenay pours down ^^^ labors of the farmer. The aspect of the country around jovered to the water 3 ■pijjgQ^^lj^j jg divested of the rugc;e(i and rwky character which li the other side,Bdi8tingui.shes the banks of the Saguenay for the first 50 miles, lie, on toftlieB*^'^ '^^ *^® traveler advances inland, the appearance of the [ountain torren Jeountry indicates a superior soil — while the climate in the icinity of Lake St. John approaches very closely to that of the Ibiect in so remote aBMontreal district." Irgin of the stream, ^M Taken altogether, few excursions can aflFord more interest to R, ETC. [Kscurrence to be- ly engaged load- r establishments 01 of Messrs. Price the trade in the leir own interests, oyed have become ge tract of enable loutimi, a distance er are less rugged emngs may now be ation. About eight ch can be passed by 8 up, this being the ig this noble river, i of water may vie atinent. tuated at the June- 3nay, where is a pic- pied by the Hudson stationed here. The mill, a few dwell- lolic chapel, of small ,liose stations where, established a home attest their religious ■ f' i H va 858 MURRAY BAY, TADOUSAO, IIAHA BAT, ETC. tho tourist and seeker of pleasure, than a yisit to Chicoutimi and its vicinity. Besides having a view of the magnificent scenorj of the St. Lawrence, here may be seen a picturesque water-fall, and if fond of angling or hunting, the visitor may enjoy himself to his heart's content— surrounded by a vast wilderness, as yet almost unbroken by the haunts of man. MURRAY BAY— TADOUS AC -HA-HA BAY, ETC. The following letter was written by a gentleman of Phila- delphia : *' On Wednesday morning, 25th July, 1855, we left Quebec for the lower St. Lawrence and Saguenay rivers. At eight o'clock, precisely, the steamer Saguenay shot out from the landing, and rounding under the stern of the French frigate La Capricituae made h ^r way down the St. Lawrence. The tin roofs and spires of Quebec gradually grew smaller in the distance, and the blue tops of the Green Mountains, miles away in Vermont, broke on the sight. As we steamed down tlie river, we had a fine view of Quebec with its precipitous hill, crowned with battlements, whose immense guns were leveled at us in the harbor. The magnificent basin before the city wai> dotted with craft laden with other tributaries of iLo St. Jnw- rence. A few miles below Quebec the river is divided by the island of Orleans, which is at first hilly and covered with trees, but as we pass along, its shores becomes flat and under cultiya- tiou Its lands are held under the eld French tenure, and its inhabitants are Canadian French. A singularity of division in lands wliich the tourist will observe through Eastern Canada, presents itu,olf very prominently in this island. The lands of the French population, at the owner's doatli, are divided equally among the chjldren; and in order that each child may havea| portion of the river front, a farm is cut up into narrow strips running sometimes a mile in length by twenty yards in breadth. Upon the front the house is built, and the island shore is there- fore a continuous line of little wooden houses, backed by culti- vated fiolds " In about an hour after passing the island of Orleans. we| came to Grosse Isle, upon which is lo" ited the Quarantine Sta- tion of Canada. Several largo vessels were anchored in thej stream, undergoing the precautionary measures against infec- tious or contagious diseases. Ample accommodations an erected upon the shore for emigrants suffering from ship-fevei or similar disorders, and the Lazaretto arrangements of Quel 8G G fe §: 8tl fri th( we a n affc mu wer ing day the Kivj attl is sii Sa^ settl out Law] high float the tho a cei'ta botto direc stean land. is one mass feet >] itaba Theb the pi benea gaze ing of *e8p< irom BAT, BTO. t to Chicoutimi and lagnificent scenory aresque -water-fall, may enjoy himself t wilderness, as yet BAY, ETC. gentleman of Phila- B55, we left Quebec V rivers. At eight shot out from the ' the French frigate St. Lawrence. The grew smaller in the ountains, miles away 5 steamed down the its precipitous hill, e guns were leveled n before the city vrab aries of Iho St. L"W. rer is divided by the Ld covered with trees, it and under cultin. rench tenure, audits rularity of division m Juch Eastern Canada, 3land. The lands of 1, are divided equally ach child may have a lip into narrow strip nty yards in breadth.! island shore is there- uses, backed by culti- island of Orleans. ^ve ■ the Quarantine bW"' were anchored in tw sasures against intec- accommodations are iering from ship-fevei ■rangements ot Queo* MURRAY BAY, TAD0U8AC, HA HA BAY, ETC. 359 seem to be of the most perfect kind. On the mainland, behind Grosse Isle, Cape Tourment lifts its cloud-capped summit 1 ,800 feet into the air. The boat stopped at Murray Bay to land Sassengers and freight. This place seems to be the Cape May of anada, where the citizens of Quebec and Montreal resort in great numbers, for salt-water bathing. The long pier that stretches into the river was crowued with ladies expecting friends and relatives by the boat. During the summer, the ladies of Canada, of every class, when at watering-places, wear straw hats, with rims of enormous breadth, whic!» afford a marked contrast to the minute fixtures which Americaii ladies affect. The scene was highly picturesque, and culled forth much complimentary notice from traveling Americans who were aboard. We arrived at Riviere du Loup, another water- ing-place, about dusk, and anchored in the stream to await daylight. At three o'clock we again started for the mouth of the Saguenay, which is directly across the St. Lawrence from Riviere du Loup. The 8t. Lawrence ;s twenty-one miles wide at this point. About five o'clock we reached Tadovsac, which is situated on the point of land formed by the confluence of the Sa^enay and St. Lawrence At this place the French first settled in Canada, and a little red-spired church was pointed out to us as being the first church erected north of the St. Lawrence, and the oldest ecclesiastical edifice in America " Lea 7ing the St. Lawrence at this point, we plunged between high ridges into the Saguenay, and continued for five hours to float over its mirror-like expanse. It is a singular fact that the depth of the Saguenay is about seven hundred feet greater thoQ that of the St. Lawrence, into which it empties, and in ceitiin parts a fathom line of one thousand feet fails to touch bottom. The perpendicular mountains that hem it in; rise directly out of the water, without an intervening shore, and the steamboat can glide rapidly along within a yard of the solid land. Cnpe Eternity, about thirty-five miles above Tadousac, I is one of the most striking objects upon the route. It is a huge I mass of granite, without flaw or fissure, rising eighteen hundred feet in the air. Hardy birches and pines cling tenaciously to its barren sides, giving the only indication of life in the vicinity. The boat arrived at this Doint while we were at breakfast, and the pilot ran into a littlo cove beside it, so as to give the pas- sengers a view of it from every side, then rounding directly beneath the overhanging mass, we shot out into the stream to I gaze at its heavy summit from the distance. There was a feel- |iflg of indescribable awe in watching the receding boulder, as |te sped up the stream, and many an admiring gaze was flung [backward, even after a sudden bend in the rivtir had hid it prom our view. Tete du Boule, the Two Profiles, the Tableau, 1 si I 3G0 MURRAY BAY, TADOUSAO, HA-HA BAY, ETC. 9i i'} '% ^ i' Cape Trinity, and Statue Point, are each attractive objects that excite the admiration of the tourist. " Near eleven o'clock in the forenoon we arrived before the little town which lies at the head of Ha-Ha Bay^ about 00 miles from the St. Lawrence, and having dropped our anchor, the passengers were sent ashore by the ship's boats. The town is merely an establishment for lumbering purposes, and la owned by William Price, Esq., of Quebec, who is the most ex- tensive lumber merchant in Canada. All the saw-mills upon the Saguenay belong to this gentleman. He keeps constantly employed at his various mills about 3,000 persons, and freights over 100 vessels annually with lumber. As only a fe!'. minutes were allowed us, before starting on our return to the St. Law- rence, we preferred remaining upon the steamer's deck and inspecting the towc and adjacent country with the aid of a lorgnette. About Ha-Ha Bay the cliflfs almost dii^appear and some indications of agricultural attempts are manifest, but a sterile soil and a bleak atmosphere always militate with til- lage and farming in this region The Governor- General of Canada, Sir Edmund Head, was expected to visit the Saguenay on this trip, and as we ran up before the town a salute of guns was fired, and the English colors run up the flagstaff on shore. In return for the compliment, Capt. Simard decorated his steamer with flags of almost every nation, and we left Ila-IIa Bay about noon, in a gala attire of floating bunting. At five o'clock in the afternoon we touched at Tadousae, and ini two hours after anchored at the pier of Riviere du Loup, tO| wait for the morning. Early on Friday, July 27, we started for Quebec, and made the 114 miles before four o'clock in tbe{ afternoon. •' The greater part of American tourists make a great mis take in omitting the Saguenay River. They miss the finesi scenery on this continent, which they can view by an addi tional expense of $12 only. The fare on board the boat isof| excellent quality, and the berths large and comfortable. Iti worth a visit to the S;iguenay to taste the salmon, that but ai hour before was gliding in its native element. As a matter information to those wishing to make the trip in future seaso; we may say that a thick over- coat is an absolute necessityj From eleven o'clock in the morning until four in the aftcruooi the temperature is agreeable, but not too warm; during tiii other hours of the day and night it will compare exactly witf our November. Coming from warmer climates, the tourist c not be too careful to prepare for sudden changes of terapsn ture. We can not close our imperfect sketch of the Saguensj without a word of thanks to Capt. Simard, who commands ' steamer Sagaenay. To our numerous questions he politely ploi shel BAY, BTO. ANTIC08TI. 301 i^\ active objeots that arrived before the Ha Bay. about 00 •opped our anclior, 8 boats. The town T purposes, and i3 ?hc is the most ex- the saw-mills upon le keeps constantly or ten cents 6d. ♦ Real, or Ydrk shilling 7^d. A shilling sterling and a quarter of a dollar are taken in the stores as equal. The exchangeable value of the dollar, of course, varies with the course of exchange between the Provin- ces and the United States, which is principally ruled by that between New York and London. In general, its value is about 6s. Id. currency, or 4s. 2d. sterling. 5 to strangers >ringing with standard, d.f- inal value of -four shillings B transactions of the day for J is rather 16s. 54d. 4s. l^d. 9|d. 6d. is maie to the United States, rates at which £1 4s. 6d. 6s. Id. 3s. OAd. Is. 3d. T^d. £2 10s. 5s. Id. 2s. 6.\d. ea. 7;^d. at are taken in the ' the dollar, of lyeen the Provln- y ruled by that ts value is about APPENDIX; OONTAININO BUSINESS AnVKRTISKMENTS RELATING TO HOTELS, RAILUOAD, AND STEAMBOAT LINES, ETC., * ^ AFFORDING IXFOBMATIOX OF INTIRE8T TO THB TRAYEUXG PUBLIC. 366 APPENDIX. I' ' ADVERTISEMENTS. Page y\i I tt'll Stevens' House, New York . Clifton House, Niagara Falls International Hotel '* . . Michigan Exchange, Detroit — Anglo-American Hotel* Hamilton, C. W 4 Biddle House, Detroit, Mich, — Johnson's Hotel, " .5 Chippewa House, Saut Ste Marie — Armstrong House, Collingwood, C. W 6 Tremont House, Chicago — Briggs' House, " Richmond House, " . . 7 American Hotel, Cleveland — Weddell House, " Commercial Hotel, Pene- tanguishene, C. W 8 American Hotel, Toronto — Clarendon House, " . . 9 Russell's Hotel, Toronto — Russell's Hotel, Quebec . . 10 Wilson House, Brockville, C. W. — Crossman's Hotel, Alexandria Bay, N. Y. — • Rowe's Hotel, Alexandria Bay, N. Y 11 St. Lawrence Hotel, Ogdens- burgh — Woodruff House, Watertown, N. Y. — Lake House, CaUwell, N. Y...12 Fort William Henry Hotel. .13 Montreal House, Montreal — St. Lawrence Hall, " . .14 O'Neirs Hotel, Quebec— Vic- toria Hotel, Point Levi, C.E.— La Rochelle's Hotel, River du Loup, C. E 15 Lake and Canal Transporta tion — Old Oswego Line. . .16 Pine Lands of Michigan — St. Mary's Falls Ship Canal Company 17 Page Lake Superior Line— Steam- ers Illinois and North Star 18, 19 Lake Superior Express Com- pany — Detroit to Sandus- ky, Steamer Bay City 20 Detroit to Mt. Clemens— De- troit & Saginaw Steaners 21^ Cleveland, Detroit, dad Lake Superior Line PropeUora. Galena, Dunleith, and Min- nesota Steam Packets. . . . ISIichigan Central Railroad . 21 North Shore Line Steamers- Detroit to Buffalo 25 Michigan Southern Railroad Line and Steamers 26 Lake Ontario and River St. Lawrence American Ex- press Line 27 Lake Ontario Royal Mail Line 23 Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Railroad, and Steamer ... 29 Royal Mail Line — Montreal to Kingston, Toronto, etc. 30 Montreal and Quebec Steam- ers — Bay of Quinte Steam- ers, etc 31 Ottawa Mail Steamers 32 Upper Ottawa Steamers .... 83 Lake George Steamer 84 Lake Champlain Steamers. . 35 St. Lawrence. and Saguenay* Steamers .30 Champlain and St. Lawrence llailroad — Express Co. . . .37 Grand Trunk Railway of Canada 3 New England Life Insurance Company 391 Trade List of Maps, Guide Books, etc 40| 25 BROADWAY N 4,1 i: k \-'v VI A ADVRRTISEMENTS. I '&1 2 < CLIFTON HOUSE, On the Canada Side, Is situated directly in front of the AMERICAN and BRITISH IFALLS. Visitors should Check their Baggage to the Canada Iside of the Niagara Suspension Bridge, and hand their checks |to porters wearing Badge of ^'CLIFTON HOUSE. '» E^ OMMIBUSES and Baggage Wagois attend the arrival ttd departure of all Passenger Trains at tho Bridge. i ^ I Clifton, C. W. < ••» 1 w G. P. SHEARS, Proprietor. INTERNATIONAL HOTEL, ^.Jlh MA ©^©©I'ilf ^ ®^^^ I PROPRIKTOKS, NIAGAEA FALLS, (American Side.) £i!n(SISIII(&.£J7 ISZ(91fiL£iS7(&Ifi2, JEFFERSON AVENUE, Epw^rd Lyow, ) «,«,^.w.v. DanLton, Ji>pne<,,r,. ffi S T » J T . KING STREET, EA:iT. HAMILTON, C. W. CHARLES S. COLEMAN, Propriktor, Z•* U' ^ 4.r. ,f -J- ^'^^^ m' ADVERTISEMSNTS. COLEM^:S^'S MOITMAL HOUSi COBNEB or CKJSTOinL IIOVfilE »<|Ui&RK. This spacious Hotel is conveniently and prominently situ- ated, commanding a beautiful view of the St. Lawrence, and is unsurpassed by any house in the city for its style, finish, and arrangements for Travelers or Visitors to the city, on business or pleasure. The Proprietor, having made extensive arrangements for the accommodation of his guests, and being determined that none shall go away dissatisfied, anticipates the continuance of that liberal share of public patronage which has heretofore been bestowed. J. WARREN COLEMAN, Proprietor. m Great St. James Street, MONTREAL. This splendid Hotel, which is situated in the most beautiful part of the City of Montreal, near the Banks and Post-Ofl&ce, is furnished throughout in the best style of the New York and Boston Hotels, and comprises a DINING SALOON and CON- CERT BOOM, unequaled by any Hotel in Canada. ^^/^ The TABLE will receive special attention, with the viei? of rendering it equal, if not superior, to any in America. HOT and COLD BATHS can be had at all hours ; and an OMNIBUS will always be in attendance on the arrival or de- parture of Railway Cars and Steamboats. PENN & HOQAN, Proprietors. s RK. prominently situ- Lawrence, and is I style, finish, and 5 city, on business arrangements for I determined that the continuance of sh has heretofore iN, Proprietor. /uUilLfc »et, the most beautiful ka and Post-Office, the New York and LLOON and CON- nada. tion, with the "vieT^ in America. EiU hours ; and an the arrival or de- \.N, Proprietors. ADVEHTISEMRNTS. O'NEIL'S HOTEL, Late Swords, ST. LEWIS STREET, UPPER TOWN, QUEBEC. The Proprietor bees to return thanks to the public for the kind patronage which has been liberally bestowed on him, and informs them that he has in many wars improved, with regard to elegance and comfort, this old and well known Establishment. His DINING HALL has been re-fitted according to the PARISIAN STYLE, and he flatters himself that his Table will be second to none in the Country. As to the situation of the HoTEX., it is in one of the most central and healthiest parts of the City. It is also contiguous to the Court House, Olympic Theater, Governor's Garden, Citadel, Durham Terrace, and other places of public resort. ADJOINING THE TERMINUS OF THE GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. POINT LEVI, OPPOSITE QUEBEC. WILLIAM NORMAN, for many years connected with the Cunard Line of Steamers, begs leave to inform the Nobility, Gentry, and Traveling Public, that he has taken the above HoTii^L, where every attention shall be paid to those honoring him with a visit. ^^* STEAMBOATS crossing from the Hotel to Quebec every 10 minutes. Permits to the Citadel to be had at the bar. LA ROCHELLE'S HOTEL, RIVER DU LOUP, EN. BAS. C. E. The agreeable temperature of River D(j Loup, its magnifi- cent scenery added to the presence of salt water, is rendering it every year a more fashionable resort. Here the business man can find relaxation, and recover his wonted energy ; the invalid be restored to health by the recuperative power of salt-water bathing and a genial temperature, and even the healthy be re- moved from the oppressive heat of a southern latitude. The Subscriber has fitted up his Establishment to meet the requirements of Summer Travelers, and will spare no effort t-^ make his guests comfortable. ^^^* His Table is daily supplied with fresh Salmon-Trout, Shad, Herrings, Sturgeon, etc. EUGENE LA ROCHELLE, Proprietor. bR 1 '•I m Hi* 6» 1 7 'f i''W:4 .5: ADVERTISEMENTS. OLD OSWEGO LINE. CAPITAL $300,000. INCORPORATED MDER THE LAWS OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. D. C. LITTLE JOHN, Prkstdent, H. FITZHITGH, Vici.>Pbe8idujnt, h. H. FyvILTNG, Sbcrktary, K. FITZIIUGII, Jr., TREASURan, OswBoa Merchandise and other Property forwarded to and from the West, via Canal to Oswego, thence by Steam or Sail on the Lakes, QUICKER and CHEAPER than by any other water communication. NO TBAHSHIFMEMT AT ALBANY OR TROT. NEW YORK AGENT.— F. 8. LITTLEJOHN, 100 Broad Street. ALBANY AGENT.-A. H. THOMPSON, 96 Pier. CONTRACTING AGENTS IN NEW YORK.— F. S. LITTLEJOHX, E. HARVEY, for Canada, W. H. JENNISON, 100 Broad Street. Wester^l Agents.— GEO. M. CHAPMAN, Chicago, Office with James Peck & Co. ; ALBERT LEE, MilwauTceo ; F. B. DANE, Toledo; GEO. THORNTON, Sandusky, Office with Thornion & FiTzniron. Western Consignees.— JAMES PECK «fe CO., Chicago; DOUSE- MAN & CO., Milwaukee: CATLIN k, ERWIN, Detroit; FIELD & KING, and SINCLAIR & CO, Toledo; THORNTON <&; FITZHUGH, Sariusky; GUYLES, FOOT «fe BASH, Cleveland. Lake Ontario Consignees. — D. C. LITTLEJOHN, Peesident, Office of Company, Oswego ; BROWN & MALCOMSON, Hamilton, C. W. ; R. K. CHISHOLM, Oakville, C. W. ; UPTON & BROWN, M J. BORST & CO., T. J. MILLER h CO., and ROBERT MAITLAND, Toronto, C. W. ; G. M. KINGHORN, Kingston, C. W. ; N. CORNELL, Lewiston, N. Y. ; A. LANE, Youngstown, N. Y. ; FULLER h WOOD- WORTH, Alexandria Bay, N. Y. ; E. B. ALLEN «fe SON, Ogdensburgh, N. Y. ; FOWLER & ESSELTYNE, Clayton, N. Y. ^r-Mark Packages, "OLD03W:'GO LINE/' and Skip Daily from Pier 8, E. B., New York. ADVERT1REMENT8. JUli«lWU. ^jjg SAINT MARY'S FALLS LINE. )00. OF THE STATE [)8WB0a > and from the "West, le Lakes, QUICKER ation. OB TROY. 00 Broad Street, r. ?. S. LITTLEJOHN, Broad Street, 'hicago, Office with . B. DANE, Toledo; )N & FiTZHxron. , Chicago; DOUSE- Detroit; FIELD & rON & FITZHUGH, EJOHN, Peesident, MSON, Hamilton, C. tr & BEOWN, M J. BERT MAITLAND, 3. W. ; N. CORNELL, FULLER * "WOOD- \i SON, Ogdensburgh, r. B," and Ship Daily S|tp Canal Compng OrrSR FOR 8A& THEIR ENTIRE SELECTION OF 550,000 AfTes of Pine and Farming Land IN MICHIGAN. These compriGe some of the choicest and most desirable lands in the West, either for settlement^ as an investment, or for lumbering purposes* Unlike a considerable portion of the Pine Lands of the country, these lands are valuable for farming purposes after the timber is cut oflf. They were selected with great care, with particular reference to the quality and quantity of the Pine, and their locality on the large streams of the State. T'hese lands are more favorably situated in reference to the Chicago Market, than any other Western thnber lands. Some of the fineso Pine timber is located within 16 miles of Lake Michigan, with good water communication to the t «\ke, and with but 150 miles of Lake navigation to Chicago. Particular information given, and description cf land fur- nished, on application to GEO. S. FEOST, Land Agent Land OryiCE St. Mary's Falls Ship Canal Co., > Detroit, Michigan. y 11 ■I ■ :m U \ IS' f' ' M' i 1 F'iif4; ADVERTISEMENTH. McRSriaBT'S LAKE SUPERIOR LINE. The Splendid Low Pressure Steamer ILLINOIS, t'apt. Johw WiLsox, will run the ensuing season between Clbveland, De- troit, Saut Stb Marie, Superior Citi, and intermediate ports on Lake Superior, as follows: Leaves Cluveland at 7 o'clock p.m. Tueuday May 6 Friday* '* 15 Ttiesday " 26 Friday* June 6 Tuesday "16 Friday* " 26 Tuesday July 7 Friday* " 17 Tuesday "28 Friday* August 7 Tuesday " 18 Friday* " 28 Tuesday Sept. 8 Friday* •' 18 Tuesday " 29 Leaves Detroft 10 o'clock a m. Wednesday May 6 Saturday* "16 Wednesday "27 Saturday* June 6 Wednesday "17 Saturday* " 27 Wednesday July 8 Saturday* " 18 Wednesday " 29 Saturday* ; Aug. 8 Wednesday " 10 Saturday* ** 29 Wednesday Sept. D Saturday* " 19 Wednesday " 30 The days of leaving Cleveland and Detroit after Oct. 1st will be irregular, but will be as near the above schedule aa weather will permit. The ILLINOIS is a first-class upper-cabin Steamer, 1,000 tons burthen, fitted and furnished with spacious, airy state- rooms, and all the modern improvements for safety and comfort. Pleasure-seekers will find this route unrivaled for salubrity of climate, beauty and variety of scenery ; while an opportunity is afforded to visit the rich Iron Mines at Marquette, and the unrivaled Copper Mines at Eagle River and Ontonagon. f^ Parties at a distance wishing to secure State-Kooms, can do 80 by addressing the Subscriber, S. Mcknight, Detroit. ^^^ In addition to Steamer Illinois, two first-class Propel- LSRs are run in this line, carrying heavy freight, etc. , I , I HI I ■ * * Goes to Superior City. All other trips termiaate at Oxtokaook. ADYEKTISRMENTS. LINE. NOIS, tapt. JoHw n Clbveland, Db- and intermediate ^Rorr 10 o'clock a m. May 6 '« 16 " 27 June 6 »* 17 *' 27 Julys ** 18 <• 29 Aug. 8 " 19 *' 29 Sept. H " 19 " 30 ROiT after Oct. 1st above schedule as >in Steamer, 1,000 acious, airy state- safety and comfort, valed for salubrity tiile an opportunity f arquette, and the Ontonagon, e State-Kooms, can NIGHT, Detroit. first- class Propel- sight, etc. ite at Ontokaooic. IMl glFlil©! um THE STEAMER ISrORTH STA.R B. 0. SWEET, Master, LeAVFS Cr.EVKT.ANP, AS FOLLOWS, AT S o'clock P.m. ThuMfla y April 80th Monday! May llth Thursday " 2t8t Mondav June Ist Tliursd'ay " llth Mondav " 22d Thursday July 2d Mondav " 18th Thursday " 28d Mondav Aug. 8d Thursdav " 18th Monday* " 24th Thursday Sept. 8d Mondav '^ 14th Thursday " 24th Mondav* Oct. 6th Thursday " IMh Monday.... " 26th Thursday Nov. 5th Monday " 16th Leaves Pktroit, as follows, AT lu o'clock a.m. Friday May 1st Tuesday " 12th Friday " 22d Tuesday June 2d Friday " 12th Tuesday.... " 2.Sd Friday July 8d Tuesday " 14th Friday " 24th Tuesday Aug. 4th Friday " 14th Tuesday " 25th Friday Sept. 4th Tuesday " 16th Friday " 25th Tuesday Oct, 6th Friday " 16th Tuesday " 27th Friday Nov. 6th Tuesday " 17th .The NORTH STAR is not surpassed, ^n point of speed and accommo- dations, by any boat on the Lakes. She built for this particular trade, is over 1,100 tons burthen, is fast, staun' n, and new. She performs her trips with surprising regularity, and Is so well appointed ana Airnished aa to make her a PALACE HOME to the pleasure traveler. The LAKE SUPERIOR ROUTE, In the Summer Season, is altoffether the most picturesque, healthful, and delightful to be found on the Ameri- can Continent. It contains the grand, the beautif\il, and the useful ; and bids fair to be one of the most fashionable resorts in the United States. It includes in its circuit the Detroit, St. Clair, and St. Mary's Rivers ; Lakes St. Clair, Huron, and Superior ; the beautiful Islands on the Route, the Pictured Rocks, Marquette, Copper Harbor, Eagle Harbor, Eagle River, Ontonagon, La Pointe, and Superior City, besides many other localities of great interest and attractive scenery. To the invalid, the eool and bracing climate will be highly salubrious, while sportsmen find the facilities for fishing and hunting of the most invit- ing character. The Copper and Iron Mines, the leading business interest of this region, will always continue to attract the enterprising and scientiflo to their vicinity, and the new and easy communication by the Saut Sto Marie Canal, have made the voyage one of uninterrupted comfort and pleasure. ^F° Rooms secured for the round trip (time 8 days, distance 2,000 miles), by addressing 8. & A. TURNER, Cleveland, 0. 8. P. BRADY, and CRAGG & BROTHER, ) Agents, Detroit, Michigan. f ii!" ,1 m I 'i 'I M :| ■5' ADVERTISEMENTS. MORNING LINE. Detroit to Sandusky, Cleveland, Springfield, Dayton, Cincinnati, etc., The New Low Pressure Steamer, BAY CITY, Capt. J. W. Keith, will leave the dock of the M. C. R.R., Detroit, every morning (Sundays excepted), on the arrival of the Train from the West, connecting at Sandusky with Railroads direct to Cleveland, Springfield, Dayton, Cincinnati, and points South. Cy For THROUGH TICKETS, apply at the Clerk's Office on board the Boat. Freight contracted to Cincinnati and Columbus at the lowest rates. CATLIN & ERWIN, \gents, Detroit. LAKE SUPERIOR EXPRESS COMPANY, 106 JEFFERSON AVENUE, DETROIT. Having resumed their Express to Mackinac, Saut Ste Marie, Marquette, Copper Harbor, Eagle Harbor, Eagle River, Onton- agon, and Superior, they are prepared to do a General Express Business to the above-named places. Each Express will be in charge of Special Messengers, who will be provided with Iron Safes, for the safety of Money, Valuable Parcels, Jewelry, etc. The LAKE SUPERIOR EXPRESS COMPANY connect at Detroit with AMERICAN EXPRESS COMPANY, for all parts of the United States and Canada. C. FARGO, Agent, Detroit. Office with American Express Company. aDViCRTISRMRNTB. DETROIT TO MT. CLEMENS, MICH. Great Saving of Time and Distance* THROUGH TO MT. CLEMENS IN TWO HOURS, VIA NEW LIVERPOOL. FAST AND SPLENDID STEAMER CAPT. JOHN A. SLOANE, Will commence her Daily Trips (Sundays excepted), Leaving Detroit, foot of First Street, at 10 o'clock a.m Leaving New Liverpool at 1 o'clock p.m. BP* An Omnibus will leave on arrival of the Boat at Mt. Clemens at 12 m., and connect with all Stage Lines for Romeo, Almont, Dryden, Utica, etc. For Freight or Passage, apply on board, or to CATLIN & ERWIN, foot of First Street, Detroit A. S. GUERBER, New Liverpool, A:ich. jf DETROIT AND SAGINAW. The New Fast-Sailing Low Pressure Steamer, FOREST QUEEN, George H. Cottrel, Captain, will ply between Detroit and Saginaw during the season, as follows : Leaves the dock of A. E. Bissell, Detroit, every Monday and Thursday Morning at 9 o'clock. Leaves Saginaw City every Tuesday and Friday at 1 p.m. AGENTS.— A. E. Bissell, Detroit; D. H. Jerome, Sag- inaw City ; Beech & Moores, East Saginaw, Mich. FOR SAGINAW. The Steamer SAM WARD, Running between Detroit and Saginaw, will take Freight at Low Rates, to all ports on the River St. Clair, to Lexington, Cherry Creek, Forestville, Sand Beach Bay, Willow Creek, Fort Austin, and Towas Bay. .^^* This Boat will make two trips per week, touching at the above places, and will take Passengers and Freight cheaper than they can be got by any other route. JOHN HUTCHINGS, Agent, Detroit. m ■i ii •: M id li i ,i ;* '■Si 1 > iti it !14 J ■4- ll:, I -» ^4 ADVERTISEMENTS. CLEVELAND, DETROIT, AND LAKE SUPERIOR LINE. On the Opening of Navigation three first-class Propellers, carrying Freight and Passengers, will constitute the above line, running regularly from Cleveland and Detroit to Superior City, stopping at all intermediate points on Lake Superior The line will be composed of the IRON CITV Capt. J. E, Turner. MANHATTAN " C. Ripley. (New Boat) *' John Spalding. The '* Iron City" is a new boat, built last season, and is one of the fastest boats on the Lake. The " Manhattan" has undergone a thorough repair, and is a sound, staunch boat in every particular. The new boat, now being built expressly for the trade, with ah the modern improvements for Freight and Passengers. These boats are fitted up expressly for Freight and Passengers. Every attention will be given to the comfort of Passengers, and the prompt delivery of Freight consigned to their carp. j^^* For Freight or Passage, apply to HANNA, GARRETSON & CO., Cleveland. J. G. HUSSEY, Cleveland. G. 0. WILLIAMS & CO., Detroit. WM. P. SPAULDING, Saut Ste Mario. J. P. PENDEILL, Marquette. P. M. EVERETT, WM. P. RALEY, Copper Harbor. S. LEOPOLD & CO.. Eagle Harbor. PITTSBURGH & BOSTON MINING CO., Eagle River. CARSON & CLOSE, Ontonagon. E. M. LIVERMORE, J. AUSTRIAN, La Pointe. C. C. CHILD, Bayfield. H. ROBBINS, Sunerior. ADVERTISEMENTS. )IT, AM LINE. ilass Propellers, ute the above line, :roit to Superior on Lake Superior Turner. RIPLEY. N Spalding. ast season, and is ^Ian-iattan'' has d, staunch boat in built expressly for s for Freight and ressly for Freight vren to the comfort eight consigned to ad. Eagle River. GALENA, DUNLEITH, AND MINNESOTA PACKET COMPANY. ORRIN SMITH, President, Galena, 111. J. P. FARLEY, Vice President, Dubuque. GEO. C. BLISH, Secretary, Galena. MOllNING AND EVENING LINE TO ST. PAUL, AND A DAILY LINE FUOifl GALENA TO ROCK ISLAND. The Boats of this Company will make regular trips between GALENA, DUBUQUE, DUNLEITH, AND ST. PAUI., connecting at Dunlelth with tlie trains of the ILLINOIS CENTRAL RAILROAD from the East and South, going up and returning— stopping at ail intermediate points, and remaining sufficiently long for passengers to VISIT THE FALLS OF ST. ANTHONY. The following Boats comprise the line between Galena, Dubuque, Dun- leith, and St Paul : NORTHERN LIGHT Capt. Prestos Lodwick. GREY EAGLE " D.S.Harris. NORTHERN BELLE « J. Y. Hurd. KEY CITY " J. WoRDEX. WAR EAGLE " A. T. Kingman, GALENA " W. H. Lauohton. CITY BELLE " Kennedy Lodwiok. GOLDEN ERA " John Soott. GRANITE STATE " W. H. Gabbekt. GOLDEN STATE " S.R.Harlow. ALHAMBRA " E. McGuieb. All flrst-class Steamers, commanded by the most skillftil and gentle- manly officers, and are fitted up with a view to the safety and comfort of Passengers. ^r- Being UNITED STATES MAIL BOATS, their punctuality can be relied upon. THIS COMPANY WILL ALSO RUN THE FANNY HARRIS Capt. R. Andrews. KATE CA8SELL " Between Galena and Rock Island, making a Daily Line, connecting at Rock Island with the CHICAGO AND ROCK ISLAND RAILROAD- and the ST. LOUIS, KEOKUK, AND ROCK ISLAND LINE OF FIRST CLASS STEAMERS, and at Fulton City with the trains of the CHICAGC FULTON, AND IOWA RAILROAD, and at Galena with the boats of tt GALENA, DUBUQUE, DUNLEITH, AND ST. PAUL LINE. J. F. HILLS, Freight Agent, Dnnleith, III ii ■I- I <.i ill i' i • f,*. i 4 ADVKRTISEMEJJT8. MICHia^N CENTRAL RAILROAD PASSENGEB TBAINS WILL RUN AS FOLLOWS : GOING WEST. MAIL TRAIN— Daily, except Sundays, leaves Detroit at 6.30 a.m., and stops at all Be^lar and Signal Stations. DAY EXPRESS— Dally, except Sundays, at 10.15 a.m., will stop only at Ypsilanti, Ann Arbor, Chelsea, Jackson, Albion, Marshall, Battle Creek, Kalamazoo, Decatur, Niles, Michigan City, Lake, and Calumet. EVENING EXPRESS-Except Saturdays and Sundays, at 6.20 p.m., will stop at all Regular and Signal Stations as far as MarshalL West of Marshall, it stops at Regular Stations only. NIGHT EXPRESS— Daily, at 9.20 t.M., stops only at Ypsilanti, Ann Arbor, Jackson, Albion, Marshall, Battle Creek, Kalamazoo, Decatur, Niles, Michigan City, Lake, and Calumet * GOING EAST. MORNING EXPRESS— Leaves Chicago, daily, except Sundays, at 6.15 A.M., and makes all the stops. DAY EXPRESS— Daily, except Sundays, at 7.45 a.m., stops only at Calumet, Lake, Michigan City, Niles, Decatur, Kalamazoo, Battle Creek? Marshall, Albion, Jackson, Ann Arbor, and Ypsilanti. EVENING EXPRESS— Daily, except Saturdays and Sundays, at 8 p.m., stops at all Regular Stations. It will stop to leave passengers at Signal Stations, between Chicago and Kalamazoo, but not east of Kalamazoo. NIGHT EXPRESS— Daily, at 8.80 p.m., stops west of Marshall only at Oalumet, Lake, Michigan City, Niles, Decatur, Paw Paw, Kalamazoo, and Battle Creek. East of Marshall, it stops at all the Regular, and if neces- sary, at Signal Stations. On Saturday it makes all the stops of Evening Express of other days. f^ff^ On Sundays it stops at all Regular Stations west of Marshall. B. N. BICE, Oeneral Superintendent Office qf Michigan Central S.B. Co.^ ) Dbtboit, Mioh. ) 'lN^ :Ma^ ROAD FOLLOWS : TBOiT at 6.30 A.M., and 5 A.M., will stop only [arshall, Battle Creek, d Calumet. Sundays, at 6.20 p.m., 18 Marshall. "West of ily at Tpsilanti, Ann Kalamazoo, Decatur, except Sundays, at 15 A.M., stops only at amazoo, Battle Creek) ti. md Sundays, at 8 p.m., passengers at Signal ;ast of Kalamazoo. ;st of Marshall only at Paw, Kalamazoo, and ilegular, and if neces- Jxpress of other days, v^est of Marshall. I Superintendent ADVERTISEMENTS. MICHIGAN CENTRAL RAILROAD CO. NORTH SHORE LINE STEAMBOATS. DETROIT AND BUFFALO. The new and magnificent Steamers PLTMOUTII ROCK, WESTERN WORLD, and MISSISSIPPI will form this line the ensuing season, and commence running immediately upon the opening of navigation, as fol- lows : PLYMOUTH ROCK P. J. HALPH, Commander, Will leave Detroit -Mondays and Thursdays. " " Buffalo— Tuesdays and Fridays. WESTERN WORLD J. S- RICHARDS, Commander, ♦ Will leave Detroit— Wednesdays and Spturdaya. " " Buffalo— Mondays and Thursdays. MISSISSIPPI S. G. LANG LEY, Commander, Will leave Detroit— Tuesdays and Fridays. " " Buffalo— Wednesdays and Saturdays. These steamers are all new, of the largest class, being about 2,000 tons each. The commanders and officers are gentlemen ol* great experience and capability. They are fitted up and flimished for the convenience of pas- sengers in a style of comfort and luxury entirely unequaled, and are in all respects considered the safest and most desirable steamers that sail upon the Western waters. ' For the transportation of Freight, the line will surpass any thing ever before offered to the public, having arrangements with parties between Boston and New York, and all points west of Buffalo to St. Louis, which will enable them to forward goods and merchandise with greater dispatch than has ever yet been attained. For the transportation of live stock, these steamers offer facilities to drovers which can not be surpassed or equaled. fW^ Shippers of merchandise from the East should ma . packages to the care of C. L. Sbymoub, Buffalo; merchandise from the iVest should be marked to the care of John Hosmer, Freight Agent, Detroit C. B. SWAIN, Agent, DETROIT, MICH. S3 ADVERTI8EMKNTS. • i< MICHIGAN SOUTHERN RAIL ROAD LIISTE, BUFFALO TO CHICAGO. Toll do, Milwanke^, Racine, Kenosha, Waukegpan Galena, Rock Island, Bnrtin^ton, Dnbnqne, Madison, Iowa City, St. Louis, St. PanI, and all Places in th^ West and Sonth West. The following New Low Pressure STEAMERS form the Line from BUFFALO "TO TOLEDO, CONNECTING THERE WITH THE MICHIGAI SOUTHERN AND NORTHERN INDIANA RAILROAD. ONLY 242 MILES TO CHICAGO. WESTERN METROPOLIS I. T. Pheatt, Com'r. Leaves Buffalo Mondays and Thursdays. CITY OF BUFFALO A. D. Pekkins, " Leaves Buffalo Tuesdays and Fridays. SOUTHERN MICHIGAN L. B. Goldsmith, « Leaves Buffalo Wednesdays and Saturdays, Leaving Michigan Southern Railroad Docic, foot of Main Street, Buffalo, every evening (Sundays excepted), at 9 o'clock, or immediately after the arrival of the Express Train from Boston, Albany, and New York, through to Toledo without landing, where passengers take the Lightning Express Train for Chicago, etc. 1^~ Passengers, by delivering their Checks to the Agent ou the Cars, can have their Sa^i^age Conveydd t3 tha Boat f ee of Charge, and Checked Ihrough At Toledo this Line of Steamers connects with the TOLEDO, WABASH, AND WESTERN RAILROAD. Passengers who desire to go all the way by Railroad, can take the LAKE SHORE RAILROAD, at Buffalo, for Toledo, or GREAT WEST- ERN RAILWAY, at Suspension Bridge, for Detroit, where direct con- nections are made with tlie MICHIGAN SOUTHERN AND NORTH- ERN INDIANA RAILROAD. THROUGH TICKETS can be purchased at all Railroad and Steamboat OfiBces East ; of the Agents of the Company, John F. Porter, 198 Broad- way, New York ; B. F. Fifield, Detroit; Geo. M. Gray, Chicago ; U. B. BncHiE, foot of Main Street, Buffalo. SAM BBOWN, General Superintendent, Toledo 0. EZRA DOWNER, Traveling Agent. ^HERN IIS^E. nkegpan Galena, idison, Iowa l*laces in m the Line ft'om [DO, UNA RAlLaOAD. 0. '. Pheatt, Com'r. lays. X Pekkins, " iy8. Goldsmith, " ■days. Main Street, Buffalo, mmediately after the i New York, through e Lightning Express 5 Agent on the Cars, rge. and Checked OLEDO, WABASH, Iroad, can take the or GREAT WE8T- t, where direct con- RN AND NORTH- Iroad and Steamboat Porter, 198 Broad- ;ay, Chicago ; U. B. dent, Toledo 0. ADVERTISEMENTS. LAKE ONTARIO AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. THE AMERICAN EXPRESS & U. S. MAIL LINES OP STEAMBOiTS PLY DAILY BETWEEN l^f SSIIS! Rochester, Oswego, Kingston, S. Harbor, CapeTincent, Brockville, Ogdensburgh, and Montreal. AMERICAN EXPRESS LINE. Formed by the Steamers NEW YORK, Capt. Chapman, and NORTH- ERNER, Capt. Guilds, ply DAILY between Toronto, Lewist-^ ; Cape Vincent, Brockville, and Ogdensburgh. Leaving Maitlanr. Wharf, Toronto, every morning (Monday excepted) at 7 a.m. for Lewiston, and will leave the same wharf every afternoon (Sundays excepted) at 4 p.m., and the Queen's Wharf at 4.80 p.m., for Cape Vincent, Brockville, and Ogdensburgh. TWEI^TY-OME HOUflS TO IVIOIVTREAL., Being in advance of any other Steamboat Line. Taking this line, Passengers can bo certain of making connectioni— reaching Montreal, New York, and Boston early the following aflemoom and evening. UNITED STATES MAIL LINE. Consisting of the Steamers BAY STATE, Capt Ledyard; ON- TARIO, Capt Throop; CATARACT, Capt. Estes; and NIAGARA, Capt. MoRLEY, form a DAILY LINE between Toronto, Rochester, Oswego, Sackets Harbor, Kingston, Brockville, aad Ogdensburgh. RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT CONNECTIONS. Connect at Lewiston with Cars for Niagara FallH, Buffalo, etc. At Toronto with Grand Trunk Railway, and Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Railroad. At Charlotte with Cars for Rochester, etc. At OswTiao with Cars for Syracuse, etc. ; at Cape Vincent with the Waterlown and Rome Railroad ; at Kingston with Grand Trunk Railway. At Ogdensburgh with Railroad Lines, and the Montreal Daily Liw>. of Fast and Superior Upper-Cabin River Steamers, consisting of the JENNY LIND, Capt Moodie ; BRITISH QUEEN, Capt. Cameron, and MONTREAL. Capt La Flammb ; forming a connecting Daily Line to and from Montreal— passing the Rap)ds by daylight. h '.'it m !•: n '1 3 Si ', hf'^.U^ I ADVERTISEMENTS. LAKE ONTARrO ROYA L MAIL LINE. axmnasm. AR&AxroBMtBxrrs. LAKE ONTARIO INTERNATIONAL STEAMBOAT COMPANY, IN CONNECTION WITH THE New York Central, Genesee Valley and Grand Trunk Railroads. THE STEAMER MA.PLE LE^F, CAFT. QEO. SCHOi'IELD, Will leave Rochester daily (Sundays oxcepted>, at 12 o'clocc, noon, for Goburg and Port Hope, connecting at Coburg with the Orand Trunk Sail< way, for Bellerille) Kingston, Brockrille, OffdenubnrKh, IVIot:- Ireal, Quebec, Portland, on the Eant; Oiihawa) IVhitby, Toronto, Collinic^irood, and litrnlford, on the Weeitj Will also, at Coburg, connect with the Coburg and Peterboro' Railroad, and with a Line of Steamers for Toronto and Montreal. ^r PASSENGERS TAKEN AS LOW AS BY THE OLD STEAM- BOAT ROUTE, AND WITH MORE DISPATCH. ^^^ Passengers leaving Rochester at 12 o'clock, noon, will arrive at Ooburg at 4 o'clock, Kingston at 11 o'clock same night, and at Ogdens- burgh and Montreal early next morning ; or, Tickets can be procured at the OflQce with privilege to take Steamer from Kingston to Montreal, pass- ing all the Thousand Islcmdn by daylight. RETURNING, will leave Coburg at 9 o'clock p.m., on the arrival of the Trains from Montreal and Toronto. »- THE STEAMER WILL CALL AT COLBORNE ON WEDNES- DAY AND SATURDAY EVENIN63, WEATHER PERMITTING. For Freight, or Passage, or other information, apply at the CANADA STEAMBOAT OFFICE, 110 State Street, Rochester, GEO. DARLING, Agt. f0P* The Oars will leave the Dep it, Rochester, at 11.50 a.m., Railroad Time, to oonvey passengers to the Boat. ADVERTISEMENTS. LINE. kKBXVTS. NATIONAL PANY, E ey and Grand "71 D, 12 o'clocic, noon, for le Orand Tnink Bail< eimbiirsh, ITfot:. •t; Oiihawaj »dy and Peterboro' Eailroad, il. THE OLD STEAM- noon, will arrive at ight, and at Ogdens- can be procured at on to Montreal, pass- on the arrival of tbe iNE ON WEDNES- ; PERMITTING. >ly at the CANADA ochester, lRLING, Agt. 11.60 A.3I., Bailroad ONTARIO, SIMCOE, AND HURON RAILROAD. TORONTO TO COLLINGWOOD, C. W. Trains will ran as follows (Sundays excepted) : LEAVE TORONTO 7.15 a.m., MAIL TRAIN, stopping at all Regular Stations, and Flag Stations on signal, arriving at Collingwood 12.20 p.m. 4 P.M. ACCOMMODATION TRAIN, stopping as atove, and arriving at Collingwood at 8.80 p.m. LEAVE COLLINGWOOD 6 A.51 , ACCOMMODATION TRAIN, stop- ping at all Regular Stations, and Flag Stations on Signal, arriving at Toronto 10.20 a.m. 8.45 P.M. MAIL TRAIN, stopping as above, and arriving at Toronto 8.4' • P.M. THE COMPANY'S STEAMER, J. C. MORRISON, Capt. Chas. Y. Bell, (LAKK SIMCOK,) Will commence her regular trips on Monday, May 4th, leaving Bkll EwART daily upon arrival of Mail Train from Toronto, at 10 o'clock a.m., , and touch at Lake Ports (weather permitting) as follows : At Hawestone, 11 o'clock a.m., Monday, Wednesday, and Friday At Obillia, 12.80 p.m.. Daily. At Athbrlt, 1.80 p.m.. Daily, if required. At Bbaverton, 2.45 p.m.. Daily. At Jackson's Point, 4.80 p.m.. Daily, And arrive at Bell Ewart in time for Evening Trains North and South. ^~ The Steamer J. C. MORRISON will leave Babbib every Wednes- day, at 7 A.M., by which passengers can make the tour of the Lake and re- turn via Bell Ewabt, by Evening Train. a. LEWIS OBAHT, Svpr^intendent Tobonto, Jpril 28, 185T. '^ i i ADVERTISEMENTS, m ROYAL MAIL THROUGH LINE. FOR Kingston, Cobnrg, Fort Hope, Darlington, Toronto, and Hamilton. ONLY LINE WITHOUT TRANSHIPMENT. THE FOLLOWING First-Class Upper-Cabin Steamers * Compose this Line, viz., KINGSTON, (Iron) Capt. Kelly. BANSHEE " Howard. PASSPORT, (Iron) « Harbottle. ARABIAN ' Maxwell. CHAMPION " Sinclair. MAGNET, (Iron) , " Twohy. They were built expressly for Lake and River Navigation — commodious, staunch, and in every respect well found with every requirement for safety, and fitted and furnished with every modern convenience and comfort. One of these Steamers leaves the Canal Basin, Montreal, every day (except Sundays), at 9 a.m. and Lachine on the ar- rival of the 12o' clock m. train irom Montreal, for the above and intermediate ports, direct without transhipment, connecting as follows : at Hamilton, with the Great Western Railway for London, Chatham, Windsor, Detroit, Chicago, Galena, St. Paul, Milwaukee, etc. ; at Toronto, with the Northern Railroad for Mackinaw, Green Bay, and all ports on Lake Michigan ; at Niagara, with the Erie and Ontario Railroad for Niagara Falls, Buffalo, Cleveland, Toledo, Columbus, Cincinnati, etc. To the tourist or pleasure- seeker this line affords a most desirable conveyance— -comfortable, pleasant, and expeditious — passing through the delightful scenery of the Lake of the Thousand Islands, and aU the Kapids of the St. Lawrence by daylight. W Tickets, or further infoi mation, cai^ be procured from 0. F. MucKLE ; at the hotels ; on board of the Steamers ; or at the Oflace, 40 McGILL STREET. ALEX. MILLOY, Agent. Montreal, May 4, 1857 ADVERTISEMENTS. 1 H LINE. I ROYAL MAIL STEAMBOAT ROUTE BETWEEN MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. )arlington, 1. SHIPMENT. (teamers Kelly. Howard. Harbottle. Maxwell. Sinclair. TWOHY. iver Navigation — i well found with id furnished with tasin, Mowtreal, lChine on the ar- 2AL, for the above pment, connecting stern Railway for Galena, St. Paul, lern Kailroad for Lake Michigan ; iroad for Niagara incinnati, etc. le affords a most md expeditious — the Lake of the St. Lawrence by t)e procured from he Steamers; or [LLOY, Agent. THE MAGNIFICENT STEAlfEES JOHN MUNN A. Crawford, Commander. Length 312 feet Cylinder 72 inches. QUEBEC A. M. Rudolf, Commander. Length 280 feet. Cylinder 60 inches. . CABIN FARE REDDCED TO $2 ^ Carrying Passengers in connection with all the popular lines of travel from the Falls of Niagara to the* sublime scenery of the River Saguenay. The grandeur and variety of the views on the River St. Lawrence present unequaled attrac- tions to Travelers, and have secured for this Route great and increasing popularity. Leave Montreal at 7 p.m. Leave Quebec at 6 p.m., daily (Sundays excepted), arriving at an early hour the following morning, in time to connect with the trains South, and the Ottawa Route (during the season of navigation). ,^* Usual Time Downward, 10 hours — Upward, 12 hours H. E. SCOTT, Commissioner Street, MontreaL THE STEAMER SIR CHARLES I(APIER, Has resumed her Regular Morning and Afternoon Trips between KING STON andC APE VINCENT, connecting with the Water' OWN and Rome Rail- koad f »r iTetv York and Bos- ton; also with the Grand Trunk Railway for Toronto, etc^ BP* For Freight or Passage apply to GEO. CREIGHTON, Master. For Picton & Belle?iUe. THE ROYA.L MAH* STEAMER " BAY OF CtUINTE," F. A. CARRELL, Master, Will commence her Regular Daily Trips on the Bay of Quinte, leaving Kingston every afternoon (Sundays ex- cepted), at half-past 3 o'clock, and Belleville every moni« in^ at 7 o'clock. ■ '^11 I; m lII ii^i ADVERTISE MKNTS. OTTAWA MAIL STEAMERS. DAILY LINE. MONTREAL TO OTTAWA CITY (Bytown). ji coooectloD ulih tbe Montreal and Lachlne and CarUloo and GrenvUle Railroads* THROUGH BY DAYLIGHT 4TEAMEU LADY SIMPSON Capt. H. W. Shepherd, LACHINE TO CARILLON. ITEAMER PHCENIX Capt^ McLachlin, GRENVILLE TO OTTAWA CITY. The Ottawa Passengers and Mails will leave the Lachine iailroad Depot, Bonayenture Street, by the 7,15 a.m. Tram, iaily (Sundays excepted), connecting with the Steamer Lady Simpson at Lachine, and the Steamer Phgcnix at Grenville. Passengers will be landed at all the principal places along the River (where the boats stop to exchange mails), and at Ottawa jiTY early the same evening This will be found the cheapest and most agreeable route to iie Ottawa Country. Tourists and pleasure parties may obtain PkOturn Tickets on liberal terms. Further information may be obtained at tUe Railroad Dep6t, tonaventure Street, Montreal, and on board the Steamer Uldy Simpson, at Lachine. ADVERTISEMENTS. EAMERS, PY (Bytown). chine and CarUIoo 8« GHT H. W. Shepherd, Nf. f McLachuw, CITY. leave tho Lachine le 7.16 A.M. Traia, the Steamer Lady isrix at Grenyille. pal places along the Ifl), and at Ottawa 1 agreeable route to parties may obtain 'le Railroad Dep6t, loard the Steamer VPFER OTTAWA. THE Union Forwarding Company, Hereby give notice that their STEAMERS will be prepared, on the Opening of Navigation, to carry Passengers and Freights as formerly, plying as follows : • "EMEBALD," Capt. Gumming, Will leave Aylmer, on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday mornines, at 7 o'clock, for all parts of the Upper Ottawa, connecting at the Chatts, per Railroad, with the Steamer ** Ork- gon/* returning to Aylmer on the afternoon of the same day. "OREGON," Capt. Billiard, Will leave Portage Du Fort every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday mornings, at 7 o'clock, connecting with the Steamer " Emerald" for Aylmer and Ottawa City, returning the same evening to Portage Du Fort, from whence passengorn take Stage and Steamer to Pembroke and intermediate places. These Steamers carry the Mail, and touch at all Stopping- Places en route, up and down, between Aylmer and Portagk Du Fort. ■' FONTIAC," Capt. Batbun. DOWNWARD. — Will leave Des Joachim on Mondays and Fridays, at 6 o'clock a.m., arriving at Pembroke in time to connect with Stage and Steamer, via Gould's Line for Ottawa. UPWARD. — ^Will leave Pembroke same days, at 1 o'clock p.m., arriving at Des Joachim early the same evening, touch- ing at all points each way. T. A. CUMMING, Ottawa, ^gent U. F. Com, ADVKRT18KMENT8. LAKE GEORGE. mm ►k « ' *A THE NEW AND BEAUTIFUL STEAMER Mi:iSr2SrEHA.H[A., Which has just been completed, will make her regular trips from Caldwell, the South end of Lake George, to Ticgn- DEROGA, the North end, commencing on the 8tli day of June, 1857. The Steamer leaves Caldwell (the Fort William IIenry Hotel) at 7 o'clock a.m., and Ticondehoga at 4 o'clock p.m., or immediately on arrival of the Boats from the North on Lakr Champlain. Passengers from Saratoga who desire to visit the Hotel, or to go through Lake George, will take the Saratoga and Whitehall Cars at Saratoga Spiiixgb, and stop at Moreau (the second Station from Saratoga), 18 miles, or at Fort Ed- ward (the third Station therefrom, and half a mile from Moreau). They will there find Coaches waiting on the arrival of all the trains to take them to the Lake, a beautiful and romantic ride of 14 miles (2 hours) on a plank road. Travelers going South on Lake Champlain will stop at Ticonderoga. The MINNEHAHA will then take them through Lake George to Caldwell, from which place they can go by Stage and the Whitehall and Saratoga Railroad to Saratoga Springs. The new Steamer is admitted to be the best and most com- fortable boat ever built on that Lake. She is built and fitted up regardless of expense, safety being the principal object sought after. The Boiler and Furnace are placed in compartments encased in iron, and are entirely fire-proof. ^' The Life-Saving Apparatus is of the most perfect and improved kind. By taking the Hudson River Railroad Cars in the City of New York at 6 a.m., passengers can arrive at the Lake at abont 4 p.m. )RGE. STEAMER ke her regular trips : George, to Ticoy. the 8 til day of June, RT WiLLTAM IIeNRY GA at 4 o'clock P.M., I the North on Lake ) visit the Hotel, or the Saratoga and md stop at Moreau les, or at Fort Ed- i half a mile from liting on the arrival ke, a beautiful and mk road. [PLAIN will stop at n take them throut^h )lace they can go by liroad to Saratoga best and most com- J is built and fitted he principal object npartments encased e most perfect and 7ars in the City of ive at the Lake at ADVERTISEMENTS. LAKE CHAMPLAIN. jti .ii. ,-„,-i THE NEW AND SPLENDID STEAMERS OF THE ^Ijamplitiit Cranspffrtation Coinpnn, VIZ., AMERICA Capt. Flagg, CANAr 1 ♦' Davis, UNITED STATE3 •' Anderson, Will make Two Daily Lines between Whitehall and House's Point (Sundays excepted). Leave Whitehall at 10 a.m. and 10 p.m., on arrival of the Morning and Evening Trains from the South and West ; arrive at Burlington at 4 p.m. and 4 a.m. , and at Plattsburgh and Rouse's Point, mornings and evenings, in time to connect with Trains for Montreal and OoDENSBtiRGH. Passengers who leave New York by the Evening Boat will arrive at Montreal and Ogdensburgh the next evening. Those who leave New York by the 12 m. Train, Hudson River Railroad, will arrive at Whitehall at 10 p.m., and Montreal next morning fit 9 o'clock, and Ogdensburgh at 1 o'clock p.m. GOING SOUTH — Leave Rouse's Point every morning nnd evening, on arrival of the Trains from Montreal and Ogdens- burgh, and via Plattsburgh, Burlington, and Ticonderoga, ar- rive at Whitehall at 6 a.m. and 4 p.m., connecting with Trains for the South and West. THE NEW AND BEAUTIFUL STEAMER MONTREAL Capt. Lot Chamberlain, Will make Daily Trips between Burlington and St. Albans, vl'i Port Kent, Port Jackson, Plattsburgh, and the Islands. ^SS* These Boats are not excelled, either in speed, nQatne»«», or comfort, by any other Boats afloat. m n^ « « W>' 15. • J* !'i-; '"^ Ji^ 1., *» i ft >•); 'if ^ ADVERTISEMENTS. FOR RIVER SAOTTSNAT, MURRAY BAY, RIVER DU LOUP, AND KAKOVNA. THE FIKST-CLASS SEA-GOING STEAMER " S A. a TJ E ]sr A. Y/' R. SimARD, Commander, Will make an Excursion up the renowned Biver Saguenay O^CE A WEEK, during Ihe months of JULY and AUGUST, leaving Quebec every WEDNESDAY MORNING AT EIGHT O'CLOCK, Calling on the way at Elver Quelle, Murray Bay, and Elver du Loup, and getting back on the Friday afternoon. Leaving Quebec, also, every SATURDAY MORNINQ AT EIGHT O'CLOCK, On an Excursion as far ai« Eiver du Loup, calling at Biver Ouelle and Murray Boy, and getting back the following Monday afternoon. The steamer SAGUENAY, having been built expressly for this route, Is furnished and Utted out accordingly. ^^ Any further information required can be oDtained by applying at the Office of JOHN LAIKD, Commission, Forwarding, and Insurance Agent, ST. LAWKENCE CHAMBERS, ST. PETER STEEET, QUEBEC ADVERTISEMENTS. AY, )U LOUP, lEAMER 3 der, Saguenay O^CE A ST, leaving Quebec nriNG Biver da Loup, and INd It Elver Ouelle and afternoon. >res8ly for this route, ined by applying nl ice Agent, SR STEEET, QUEBEC CHAMPLAIN AND ST. LAWRENCE RAILROAD. LENGTH, 44 MILES. EAEE, $2. STEAM FERRY-BOATS leave Montreal, morning and evening, for St. Lambert, two miles, where commences the Champlain and St. Lawrence Railroad, running to Sr. John's, 20 miles; tlience to Rouse's Point, N. Y., i}3 miles farther, connecting with the Vermont and Canada Railroady the JS^orthern Railroad of New York, and Steamers running on Lake Champlain, forming a speedy and direct communi- cation with Burlington, Boston, and New York. EXPRESS TRAINS leave Montreal at 6 a.m. and 3 P.M. Leave Rousk's Point at 7.30 a.m. and 7.40 p.m., for Montreal, etc. 0F* For Pleasure Travelers this is the most direct and pleasant route to enter Canada from the East or South. ifi W!^M\^ mf V f^fl ^^m ^1 CKESTET, FISSE & CO.' Money, Valuables, ami all kinds of Freight, forwarded to p.n<3 from all parts of the country. ^'' All Orders for goods from the Cities promptly at- tended to. Office, No. 3 SEYMOUR'S BLOCK Ogdensburoh, N. V. ADVERTISEMENTS. iffcT ■»> if* H/f-' ,;** GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY OF CANADA. This Great Railway Lin e diverges from Montreal, and runs to the White Mountains of New Hampshire, and Portland, Me., on the Southeast; to Quebec and St. Thomas on the Northeast; and Southwest to Kingston, Toronto, etc., etc., afifordii]% facilities to Pleasure Travelers and Emigrants un- rivaled by any other Railroad on the Continent of America; forming altogether a direct and speedy through-line of travel from the Sea-board to the great Lakes and Canada West. MAIN LINE AND BRANCHES 1. Montreal and Portland Districts, 292 miles in length, runs through Canada East, Vermont, and New Hampshire, to Portland, Me. 2. Quebec and Richmond Districts, 168 miles in length; runs from Montreal to Quebec. 8. St. Thomas Branch is finished 49 miles below Quebec, and will extend to Troifa Pistoles, C. E., 100 miles farther. 4. Montreal and Toronto District, 333 miles in length, runs on the west side of the St. Lawrence River and Lake Ontario to Toronto. 6. Toronto and Port Sarnia District is finished 88 miles, to Stratford, C. W., and will be extended to Port Sarnia, at the foot of LaJse Huron, 100 miles farther. IdF* For Through Tables of Distances, see pages 823 and 324. PASSENGER TRAINS leave Montreal Morning and Afternoon, during the Summer months, for Portland, Que- bec, Toronto, etc., connecting with Steamers and Railroad Lines running to every part of Canada and the United States. &" For further particulars see DisturnclPs Railway and Steamship Guide. AILWAY i ADVERTISEMENTS. Montreal, and runs hire, and Portland, St. Thomas on the Toronto, etc., etc., and Emigrants un- mtinent of America; [irough-line of travel I Canada West. [CUES miles in length, runs New HamjShire, to miles in length; runs ss below Quebec, and miles farther. niles in length, runs ^er and Lake Ontario ) finished 88 miles, to ,0 Port Sarnia, at the e:s, see pages 823 and [lEAii Morning and or Portland, Que- jamers and Railroad id the United States. irnclPs Railway and NEW ENGLAND ttteal JTife Insurance fe, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS. ESTABLISHED 1843. BEANCH OFFICE IN l^fETROPOLITAN BANK BUILDING, 110 BROADWAY, NEW YORK CITY. CAPITAL and Accumulation PREMIUMS to meet Losses, over ONE MILLION, after paying, among all holding Policies, In Cash (not in Sc-ip) Dividends amounting to ONE HUNDRED AND EIGHTY-ONE THOUSAND DOLLARS. The Surplus is divided among all the members IN CASH, thus afford- ing a good and certain rate of interest upon the outlay of premiums, and avoiding the largo and unnecessary accumulations of unpaid dividends of uncertain tendency and erroneously called capital. One half of the first five annual premiums on lUe-poIicies loaned to in- surers if desired ; the remaining half may be paid quarterly. The premiums are as low as those of any reliable company. THIS IS THE OLDEST AMERICAN MUTUAL LIFE INSUR- ANCE COMPANY, AND ONE OP THE MOST SUCCESSFUL. Insurance may be effected for the benefit of married women, beyond the reach of their husband's creditors. Creditors may insure the life of debtors. Blank form of application for insurance, or the Company's pamphlet, containing the Charter, Rules, and Regulations, also the Annual Reports showing the condition of the Company, will be furnished gratis. WILLARD PHILLIPS, President Charles P. Curtis, Thomas A. Dexter, Sewell Tappan, A. W. Thaxter, Jr., B. F. DIRECTORS. Charles Hubbard, Marshall P. Wilder. William B. Reynolds, Geo. 11. Folger. STEVENS, Secretary. REFERENCES IN NEW YORK: Rev. S. H. Tyng, D.D., A. Oakey Hall, District Attorney of New York city, R. Warren Weston (Goodhue & Co.), Wm. W. Stone (Lawrence, Stone A Co.), William G. Lambert (A. & A. Lawrence & Co.>, B. J. How- land, Rev. G. L. Prentiss, Henry L. Plerson, D. Randolph Martin, Presi- dent Ocean Bank, Wm. L. King (Naylor & Co.), Rev. S. 8. Cutting, Ellery A Gibbons, Freeman Ihmt (l/unVs J/a/7a«t/w), Samuel B. Buggies, and Rev. R. 8. Storrs, D.D., of Brooklyn. JOHN HOPPER, Agent and Attorney for the Company, 110 Broadway, New YorV I* fev'l Mri" J. DISTURNELl, PUBLISHER AND DEALER IN ixp, imk-^flolis, STATISTICAL WORKS, ETC. No. 16 BEEKMAN ST., NEW YORK. TRADE I.I8T OF IflAPS, OUIDE-BOOKS, Etc. TOWNSHIP MAP OF TEE STATE OP NEW TOBK; showing all the Canals, Bailroads, etc. Price, pocket form, 50 cents. COUNTY MAPS OP THE STATE OF NEW YORK. Revised edi- tion. In sheets, pocket form, and mounted. MAP OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK AND VICINITY. Price, pocket form, 50 cents. RAILROAD MAP OF THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. Price, pocket form, *1 ; mounted, $2. MAP OP THE UNITED STATES AND C\NADA. Small size. Price, pocket form, 87* cents. MAP OF THE NORTHERN AND EASTERN STATES, AND CAN- ADA. Price, pocket form, 87^ cents. MAP OF THE HUDSON RIVER, with Guide. Price, pocket form, 25 cts. MAP OF THE REPUBLIC OP MEXICO. Price, pocket form, |1 25: mounted, !^2 50. MAP OF CALIFORNIA, OREGON. NEW MEXICO, ETC. Price, Jocket form, 75 cents. ILWAY AND STEAMSHIP GUIDE FOR 1857, with Map of the United States and Canada. Price 25 cents. SPRINGS, WATERFALLS, SEA-BATHING RESORTS, etc., witb Maps and Illustrations. Price 50 cents. A TRIP THROUGH THE LAKES OF NORTH AMERICA; Em bracing a Description of the St. Lawrence River, etc., together witlj the Principal Places on its Banks, from its Source to its Mouth. Witli 14 Maps and Illustrations. Price $1 50. Smith's Hand-Book and Maps for Travelers and Emigrants. ILLUSTRATED HAND-BOOK FOR TRAVELERS THROUGH THE UNITED STATES. Giving a Description of every State, Railroad Route, etc. By J. Calvin Smith. Price, with Colored Map, $1. SMITH'S NEW MAP OF THE UNITED STATES. Engraved on Steel. Price, pocket form, 50 cents. MAP OP NEW ENGLAND, NEW YORK, AND CANADA. Engraved on Steel, and highly Embellished. Price, pocket form, 75 centa. mmii, ^ISHER JlSD .LEB IN IL WORKS, ETC. EKMAN ST., 7 tore:. -BOOKS, Btc. • TOBK ; showing all [) cents. YORK. Eevised edl- 1 VICINITY. Price, ES AND CANADA. \NADA. Small bLec. STATES, AND CAN- Ice, pocket form, 25 cts. ice, pocket form, $1 25: EXICO, ETC. Price, 185T, with Map of the EESOETS, etc., with TH AMERICA; Em roiE, etc., together with rce to its Mouth. W;tu srs and Emigrants. EB8 THROUGH THE ' every State, Railroad )lored Map, f 1. JLS. Engraved on Steel. ) CANADA. Engraved 5t form, 76 cents.